^wvc^ ■JB^M&iM w«?jvyy,* iuVCMy> &&$ J LIBRARY -OF CONGRESS.? k ap . i5Jjl*im !° I # ~ — / f UNITED STATES OP AMERICA, f ^t wjjv; mm V^vy, ty^V iiireW^a V z*o, yi^p rz Split the sheep's head, and well wash it, take out the brains, let the head soak for au hour in cold water ; boil three quarters of a pound of Scotch barley in eight quarts of water, and when it. boils, put in the head with a neck of mutton ; slice carrots thin, and cut turnips small, and add them with some salt ; let it boil for three hours, and skim with care and frequency. When it has boiled two hours and a half add some onions chopped very fine. In warming up this soup it must be stirred gently over a clear fire, and allowed to boil no longer than three minutes. CHICKEN BROTH. Joint a chicken, wash the pieces, put them into a stewpan with three pints of water, and add two ounces of rice, two or three blades of mace, some white pepper whole, and a pinch of salt : let it come to a boil, skim frequently, and simmer for three hours ; boil for five minutes in the soup some vermicelli, and serve with it in the soup. SCOTCH BARLEY BROTH. Throw three quarters of a pound of Scotch barley into some clean water, when thoroughly cleansed, place it with a knuckle of veal in a stewpan, cover it with cold water, let it slowly reach aboil, keep it skimmed, add seven onions, and simmer for two hours ; skim again, and add two heads of celery and two turnips cut in slices, or any shape it pleases the cook ; add as much salt as required to make it palatable, and let it stew for an hour and a half— it must be well skimmed before the broth is dished ; the meat must be previously re- moved and the broth alone sent to table. If it is intended to send the veal to table with it, dress it as follows : — take two pints of the broth and put it into a stewpan, over a clear fire, add two table-spoonfuls of flour to the broth, and keep the broth stirring as you shake it in, un- til it boils ; then add a little cayenne pepper, two table-spoonfuls of port, boil for two minutes, strain it over the veal, and send to table. 20 mw to mo& GIBLET SOUP. Scald and clean thoroughly two sets of goose giblets, or twice th«3 number of duck giblets, cut them in pieces, and put them in three quarts of stock ; if water is" Used instead of stock add a pound of gravy beef, a bunch of sweet herbs, a couple of onions, half a table" spoonful of the whole white pepper, as much salt, and the peel of half a lemon ; cover all with water, then stew, and when the gizzards are tender strain the soup. Now put into a stewpau a paste made of an ounce of butter and a spoonful of flour, stir it over the fire until brown, pour in the soup, and let it boil, stirring it well all the while ; in ten minutes skim and strain it, add a glass of Madeira, a salt* spoonful of cayenne, a desert-Spoonful of mushroom ketchup, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and serve up with the giblets in the soup } it should be sent to table as hot as possible* SOUPS OF POULTRY, GAME, ETC, CIBLEt SOUP. (let two sets of giblets, blanch them, and throw them into cold water j then cut them in pieces about one inch long, the gizzard, liver, and heart cut in thin slices, put them into some good second stock, and stew them until tender, then Strain off some of that stock, cut up in dice a piece of lean ham, two onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, a few mushrooms or the parings, a blade or two of mace, six cloves, a bay leaf, and fry all a nice light brown ; if for brown giblet soup, dry all up with flour, add the stock you have strained from the giblets, and boil it well, then strain it through a tammy, or tammy sieve, into the stewpau with the giblets, boil all together, clear off all grease, season With salt, sugar, cayenne pepper, lemon-juice, and white wine. If for White giblet soup, do not let your butter brown, and add half a pint of good cream, and the wins and lemon the last thing, in caae of curdling your soup. HARE SOUP. An old bare is fitted only for soup or jugging; To render it into soup let it be cleaned, cut into piece3, and add a pound and a half or two pounds of beef, to Which there is little or no fat ; place it at the bottom of the pail, then add two or three slices of ham or bacon, or a little of both, a couple of onions, and some sweet herbs ; add four quarts of boiling water, let it stew to shreds, strain off the soup, and take away the fat ; reboil it, add a spoonful of soy or Harvey's sauee, and s^ntl to table with a few force-meat balls. AND HOW TO CARVE. 21 HARE SOUP. If possible procure a hare that has been coursed ; in skinning it, and blowing it, take care of all the blood. Cut it up in small pieces, add about six onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, a bay leaf, four blades of mace, six cloves, a few pepper-corns, about one pound of lean ham cut in dice, and a few mushrooms or parings ; cover all with your brown second stock, and stew until tender, then take up a few of the best pieces of meat to go into your soup from the rest, take out all the bones, then rub all the meat and stock through a tammy until the meat has gone clean through ; return it to your stewpan ; if not thick enough, add a little flour and butter thin ; season with cayenne pepper, salt, and port wine, then add the best pieces of meat you had previously taken care of. Be sure it has been well skimmed from grease. SOUP LORRAINE. Pound in a mortar a pound of blanched almonds — use a little water, or they will oil ; add to these the breast and legs of a roast fowl, and with the yolks of four poached eggs, beat up into a smooth mixture ; warm three quarts of white stock, stir in the ingredients, and boil them over a slow fire. Chop the meat of the legs, wings, and breast of a second fowl until it is minced fine ; season it with nutmeg, pepper, salt, and finely-pounded mace : melt a lump of butter, strain a small quantity of the soup, and add one spoonful to butter ; cut into slices two French rolls, crisp them before the fire, scoop out the crumb of a third roll, without damaging the the crust, and fill it with the minced food ; close the roll at each end, make it hot, and keep it so. Strain into a stewpan the soup, and stew it until the consistency of cream ; lay the crisped slices of roll into the bottom of the tureen, pour the soup on to it, and serve up with the roll containing the minced fowl floating in the centre. PARTRIDGE SOUP. When you have a brace of partridges which prove to be remark" ably old, convert them into soup ; skin and cut them up, cut a hand- some slice of ham as lean as possible, and divide it in four, or cut as many thin slices, put them in the pan, add the partridges with an onion sliced, some celery, and four ounces of butter, brown nicely without burning, put them into the stewpan with three pints of water, throw in a few white peppers whole, a shank of mutton, salt it to palate, strain, add stewed celery, fried b>ead, and, previous to its boiling skim very clean, and serve up. VELOUTE. Take the cuttings and remains of any joints of fowls and veal yoa 22 HOW TO COOK, may happen to have, weigh four pounds, and put into a large stew- pan, with some onions, carrots, parsley, scallions, three bay leaves, three cloves, and a ladleful of stock ; put your stewpan upon a brisk fire, skim well, and be careful the meat does not stick ; when enough reduced, add as much stock as will nearly fill the stewpan, salt it well, give it a boil, skim and then put it on the side of the fire to simmer for two hours, after which strain it through a tammy ; make a white roux ; stir into it for ten minutes a few champignons, then pour on it, a little at a time, the above liquor, let it boil up once, then skim, and set it again by the side of the fire for an hour and a half; remove all fat, strain again, and then put by for use. The veloute should be colorless, the whiter it is the better. PIGEON SOUP. Take half a dozen of the fattest pigeons you can get, roast them only sufficient to warm them through ; cut the meat from the bones, flour the latter well, and pound them in a mortar ; stew them in a pint and a half of good gravy, add a piece of butter rolled in flour, a bunch of tarragon, chervil, a few onions, shalots, parsley, and basil, a few turnips and carrots sliced, season with cayenne and one blade of mace. Boil slowly two hours, then pour, and pass through a cul- lender. Pulp through a tammy, and then with the flesh of the pigeons put them into a saucepan. Let it simmer one hour, and serve. TURTLE, KILLED AND DRESSED. Tie a strong cord round the hind fins of the turtle, then hang it up ; tie another cord by way of pinion to both fins, that it should not beat about and be troublesome to the person who cuts off the head ; then take off the head. All this do the evening before you intend dressing it ; then lay the turtle on the back shell on the block, loosen the shell round the edge by cutting it with your sharp knife, then gently raise the shell clean off from the fleeh, and next take out the gall with great care ; then cut the fore fins off— all the flesh will come with them ; then cut the hind fins off, taking the liver as whole as you can from the entrails, likewise the heart and the kidneys ; cut the entrails from the back bone, put them in a bucket of water, wash the shell in several waters, and turn it down to drain. In the mean time cut the fins from the lean meat, then cut the white or belly shell in twelve or fourteen pieces, turn up the back shell, and take all the fat from it, taking it out as though you were skinning it ; put the fat in a stewpan by itself, saw a rim off the back shell six inches deep, cut it in about twelve inches, put a large stewpan full of water on the fire, and when it boils dip in a fin for a minute or two, thee peel' off the shell, and so continue until you have done head and AND HOW TO CARVE. 23 all ; then pat all the pieces of shell into a stewpau, with about eigh- teen large onions, and a faggot of sweet herbs, allowing more basil than any other herbs ; fill it up with water and let it boil a long time ; next you will cut the fore fins into four pieces, and put them into a stewpan, cover them with water, the hind ones in two each ; cover the stewpan ; let them boil gently until you can take out all the bones ; do not mix them, but put them on different dishes, put the two liquors in one pan. Cut up the lean meat for entrees, such as grenadins, collops, frican- deaux, roasting or boiling, as chickens, pates, or quenelles. Put one pound of butter into a large stewpan, and all the lean next that may be left as useless ; cut up three or four fowls, a faggot of turtle herbs; twelve onions, three or four pounds of lean ham, a bottle of Madeira, and a pound of mushrooms ; draw it down for an hour, and then fill it up with the liquor previously strained from * the bones and shells, keep it all boiling gently for several hours, and then strain it off, taking care of what lean meat you require for your tureens, by putting it into your soup-pot to keep hot, with a little of the stock. Have the entrails cleaned and scalded, cut them into pieces two inches long, then put them on to blanch in cold water, wash them out, line a stewpan with fat bacon, and let them stew very gently for about three hours ; then thicken the stock as for mock turtle, and rub it through a tammy, adding egg-balls, or hard boiled eggs, cut in half, and force-meat balls, or quenelles ; the green fat to be boiled by itself in good consomme, a little to be added to each tureen of soup. If to be sent up in the shell, put a pretty rim of raised pie paste round the top shell; add the, juice of lemons and a little more wine before you serve it up. Season with sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt. MOCK TURTLE Is made much after the same manner. The calf's head being divided, having the skin on, the brains carefully remove and boil separately in a cloth ; it must be placed in a saucepan, with more than enough water to cover it, skim while heating, let it be parboiled, and then let it cool, cut the meat from the head into square pieces, the tongue also ; then break the bones of the head in pieces, return them into the water in which they have been boiled, add three or four pounds of shin of beef, knuckle of veal, three or four onions, two small car- rots sliced, a turnip also, with black pepper unground ; then add the brains pounded, and stew gently five hours; strain, cool, and remove the fat. Take a clean stewpan, place in it four ounces of fresh but- ter ; add to it, when fluid, three wooden spoonfuls of flour, stirring it well until it browns, some shalots, or a little of the soup may be ad- ded to this, also parsley, sweet basil, chives, salt, soy, cayenne, and ketchnp ; strain before you add it to the soup, into which you will 34 NOW TO COOK, return the pieces of meat, and boil it for upwards of an hour ; pre- vious to dishing, half a pint of sherry or Madeira should be added, a lemoQ squeezed into the tureen in which it is to be served, and when in the tureen, add twenty or thirty egg balls. FISH SOUPS. EEL SOUP. Take any number of pounds of eels according to the quantity re- quired ; add two-thirds water. If about three or four pounds of eelg, add one onion, a small quantity of mace, a little pepper whole, sweet herbs, a crust of the top side of bread, cover down close, and stew till the fish separates, then strain. Toast slices of bread deep brown, but not to burn, and cut into triangular pieces or squares a piece of carrot, two inches long, cut into four slices lengthways, put into a tureen with the toast, and pour the soup on ; boiling cream may be added, thickened with a little flour, but it should be rich enough with- out it. LOBSTER SOUP. Extract the meat from the shells of four hen Lobsters which have been boiled ; put the spawn aside, beat the fins and small claws in a mortar ; then place both in a saucepan, with two quarts of water, un- til the whole goodness of the fish has been drawn ; then strain the liquor. Beat in a mortar the spawn, a lump of flour and butter ; rub it through a sieve into the soup previously strained ; simmer without ^boiling, that the color may be preserved, ten minutes ; squeeze in a 'piece of a lemon, with a little of the essence of anchovies. When this dish is sent to table as a feature, force-meat balls are served with it ; they are made of minced lobster spawn, crumb of French roll, egg, and mace pounded ; roll it in flour, and serve in the soup. CLAM SOUP Take 40 large or 80 small clams, and wash the shells perfectly clean. Throw them into a kettle of boiling water ; use only water enough to keep the clams from burning ; as soon as the shells open and the liquor runs out, take out the clams and strain the liquor into the soup-kettle. Cut the clams small and put them in the kettle, adding a quart of milk and water each. Add also an onion cut small, some blades of mace, and twelve whole pepper corns. Let it boil fif- AND HOW TO CARVE, 25 teen minutes, skimming it well ; then add one quarter pound of sweet butter rolled in flour, cover the kettle a few minutes, and serve it hot. CHOWDEB. Fry some slices cut from the fat part of pork, in a deep stewpan, mix sliced onions with a variety of sweet herbs, and lay them on the pork ; bone and cut a fresh cod into thick slices, and place them on the pork, then put a layer of slices of pork, on that a layer of hard biscuit or crackers, then alternately, the pork, fish, and crackers, with the onions and herbs scattered through them till the pan is nearly full; season pepper, and salt, put in about two quarts of water, cover the stewpan close, and let it stand with fire above and below it four hours j then skim it well and serve it. OYSTER SOUP. Get four flounders, or similar portions of any fish, four dozen of large oysters, blanch them slightly, take off the beards and gristle, put the beards and fish into some of your best white stock, and boil all together for several hours ; add four anchovies washed, strain all off, and thicken it with flour and butter ; add one pint of cream, put in your oysters you had taken care of the last thing, just boiling them up in the soup ; having passed it through a tammy, season it with cayenne pepper, salt, and a small piece of sugar. BROTH, FISH. Set water over the fire in a kettle, according to the quantity of broth to be made, put in the roots of parsley, parsnip, and whole on- ions, a faggot of sweet herbs, a bunch of parsley, sorrel, and butter ; let the whole be well seasoned ; then put in the bones and carcasses of the fish, the flesh of which you have used for farces ; also the tripes, the tails of cray-fish pounded in a mortar, and four or five spoonfuls of the juice of onions ; let these be well seasoned and boil- ed, then strained through a sieve, put it back into the kettle, and keep it hot to simmer your soups and boil your fish. VEGETABLE SOUPS. VEGETABLE SOUP. There are numerous methods of making this soup, the variations depending upon the omission or addition of certain vegetables, and in the mode of serving the soup with them or without them. The flowing is as simple and as palatable as any :— Collect whatever vegetables are in season, take equal quantities, 2b flOW TO COOK, turnips, carrots, cabbage, spinach, celery, parsley, onion, a little mint, &c. ; add plenty of herbs, cut them fine, put them into the stewpan, in which has previously been placed some oil ; stew gently until the vegetables become tender, then add two quarts of boiling water ; stew a quarter of an hour, and serve. Some cooks advocate the introduction of green or white peas to this soup : where they are used, they must be boiled until tender in very little water, then smashed into a very loose paste ; the vegetables, having been scalded, are then added, and two hours will suffice for stewing ; season it with salt and pepper. Be careful that it does not burn while cooking, or the whole is spoiled. SPINACH SOUP. Let your spinach be well washed and picked, and boiled very green, strain it off, and rub it through a wire sieve ; add to it bechemel, a piece of butter, half a gill of cream, a little sugar, salt, and pepper. ONION SOUP. In two quarts of weak mutton broth slice two turnips and as many carrots ; then strain it. Fry six onions cut in slices, when nicely browned add them to the broth ; simmer three hours, skim, and serve. SOUP OF SPANISH ONIONS. Put in a stewpan with four Spanish onions, four ounces of butter, a head of celery, a large turnip, a quart of white gravy, and stew until the onions are quite tender, then add another quart of gravy and strain. Pulp the vegetables, return them to the soup, and boil for half an hour. Keep constantly stirring; and imme- diately previous to serving, thicken with rice flour worked in butter. PEA SOUP. Boil to a pulp two quarts of peas, strain them, place in a stewpan four ounces of butter, add two anchovies, a table-spoonful of pounded pepper, twice that quantity of salt, a small handful of parsley and mint, a little beet-root and spinach, and stew until tender. Add pulped peas until the soup is of the proper consistency, then throw in a spoonful of loaf sugar, boil up and serve. GREEN PEA SOUP. Cut down in thin pieces two heads of celery, a good piece of mint, two carrots, two turnips, twelve green onions, a little parsley, and two quarts of peas, two lettuces, a handful of spinach, sweat all down with two quarts of good second stock, and let stew until tender, then AND HOW TO CARVE. 2t rub all through a tammy ; have a few young 1 peas, boiled green, strained off and put in your tureen ; if not a good green, add some green coloring from spinach juice to it the last thing before serving up ; season with a good bit of sugar, salt, and pepper. Send up fried bread cut in dice, as before. PEPPER POT. Put in a stewpan three quarts of water, to this add celery, turnips, carrots, lettuces, cut small, also add the bones of cold roast meat of any description, half a pound of bacon, and the same weight of salted pork ; stew gently until the meat is tender, taking care to skim when it first boils. Boil half a peck of spinnach and rub it through a colander, take the bones out of the soup and add the spinach, with it the meat of a lobster or crab minced, season with plenty of cayenne pepper, and salt to taste. Suet dumplings may be boiled with it, or a Jowl, but this is matter of taste. Mutton or beef may be substituted for bacon or pork ; this will be obvious when it is understood that a pepper pot is presumed to consist of an equal proportion of flesh, fish, fowl, aud vegetables. POTATO SOUP. Put into a stewpan three pints of white stock, take six large mealy potatoes, boil them until they are nearly done, cut them in slices until they are sufficiently tender to pulp through a sieve, with an onion boiled soft enough for the same purpose. Thicken with flour and butter, and season with white pepper, cayenne and salt. To enhance the flavor cream should be added, half a tea-cup full, previous to serving, but must not be permitted to boil after adding. RICE SOUP. Steep some fine rice in cold water for an hour, say four ounces, then boil it, add three quarts of gravy, a pinch of cayenne, a little salt, and boil five minutes. SOUP MAIZE. Melt half a pound of butter in a stewpan, and add four heads of celery, the outside stalks, if well cleaned, will be of service ; slice five onions, and throw in with twenty or thirty sprigs of spinach ; cut up four turnips, and add sweet herbs and parsley ; simmer for three quar- ters of an hour, then pour in five piuts of water, stew for half an hour, and serve with sippets of toasted bread. SPRING SOUP. Use for this soup the same roots, cut differently, as saute, with the 28 HOW TO COOK, addition, if to be had, of spinach, cabbage-lettuce, a very little sorrel, as it turns acid on the stomach, all cut rather small, tarragon, chervil, green asparagus, young peas, and cucumbers; cut the asparagus about one inch long, cut the tarragon aud chervil a lit- tle, and a few French beans cut, use your consomme stock as before, boil all your green parts particularly green in water a few minutes, leaving them to be sufficiently done in your stock ; if you have a cauliflower boiled, pick a few small pieces, and put in the soup tureen ; the boiling soup when poured in will make it hot ; season as before. SPRING SOUP. Is made as Soup a l'ltalienne, with the addition of lettuce and chervil, and instead of cutting the vegetables in shreds, cut them in dice. TOMATO SOUP. Slice two onions, and fry them in butter until brown, then remove them, and fry two dozen tomatoes just sufficient to heat them through, and put them into a stewpan with their gravy and the onions, adding a head of celery and a carrot sliced ; stew gently for half an hour ; add three pints of gravy, stew an hour and a half, pulp the whole of the vegetables through a sieve, season with white pep- per, salt, and cayenne, serve with sippets of toasted bread cut in TURNIP SOUP. This soup should be made the day before required. Stew a knuckle of veal with an onion, sweet herbs, and a little mace, in six quarts of water ; cover down close, and stew gently five or six hours ; let it be put in a cool place. Before warming, remove the fat and sediment, slice six turnips into small pieces, stew them in the gravy until tender, then add half a pint of cream, flour, and butter, and season with white pepper. PUREE OF TURNIP SOUP. Get a bunch of turnips, pare them and cut them in thin slices, one head of white celery, one onion, fill up your stewpan with good se- cond white stock, boil them until quite tender, then pass it all through a lammy by rubbing it with wooden spoons, or a tammy sieve, season with sugar, cayenne and salt. Send up fried bread, as for former soups ; add half a pint of cream the last thing. CHEAP SOUP. 1. Soak a quart of split peas for a day in cold water, and then put AND HOW TO CARVE. 29 them into a boiler with two gallons and a-half of water, and two pounds of cold boiled potatoes, well bruised, a fagot of herbs, salt, pepper, and two onions sliced. Cover it very close, and boil very gently for five hours, or until only two gallons of soup remain. 2. Take two pounds of shin beef, a quarter of a pound of barley, two cents worth of parsley, two onions sliced, salt and pepper to taste, and having cut the meat into dice, and broken the bone, place in a gallon pot and fill up with water ; boil very gently for five hours. Potatoes, celery tops, cabbage, or any vegetable left from the day be- fore may be added. CABBAGE SOUP Take four or six pounds of beef, boil with it some black pepper whole for three hours, cut three or four cabbages in quarters, let them boil until they are quite tender, then turn them into a dish, and serve all together. CARROT SOUP. Take a proportionate number of carrots to the quantity of soup to be made — if a small quantity, six will do ; they should be large, and of a rich color ; cut them after being thoroughly scraped into thin slices, stew them in some rich stock, say two quarts, until they are tender through, then force them through a seive or tammy wtth a wooden spoon, until a red pulp is deposited, reboil it with the stock until it is rich and thick, and season with grated white sugar, cayenne pepper and salt. CELERY SOUP. Stew fine white celery cut into -small slips in gravy, then boil it in good gravy. herb soup. Slice three large but young cucumbers, a handful of spring onions, and six lettuces ; cut the last small. Put into a stewpan eight oun- ces of butter, and with it the above vegetables ; when the butter has melted, cover, and let it stand over a slow fire an hour and twenty minutes. Add as much stock as may be required for the quantity of soup intended to be served ; let it boil and simmer for an hour, then thicken with flour and butter, or three table-spoonfuls of cream. If desired to be colored, use spinach juice. HOTCH-POTCH, Put a pint of peas into a quart of water, and boil them until they are so tender as easily to be pulped through a seive. Take of the leanest end of a loin of mutton three pounds, cut it into chops, put it 30 HOW TO COOK, into a saucepan with a gallon of water, four carrots, four turnips cut in small pieces, and season with pepper and salt, Boil until all the vegetables are quite tender, put in the pulped peas a head of celery and an onions sliced ; boil fifteen minutes, and serve. GUMBO SOUP. Cut up a chicken or any fowl as if to fry, and break the bones ; lay it in a pot with just enough butter to brown it a little; when browned pour as much water to it as will make soup for four or five persons ; a thin slice of lean baeon, au onion cut fine, and some parsley should al- so be added. Stew gently for five or six hours ; about twenty min- utes before it is to be served make a thickening by mixing a heaping table-spoonful of sassafras leaves, pounded fine, in some of the soup, and adding it to the rest of the soup. If the chickens are small, two will be wanted, but one large fowl is sufficient. OCHRA SOUP. Boil a leg of veal with about four dozen ochras, an hour ; then add six tomatoes, six small onions, one green pepper, a bunch of thyme and paroley, and let it boil seven or eight hours. Season it with salt, and red pepper to suit your taste, and if agreeable, add a piece of salt pork which has been previously boiled. OCHRA GUMBO SOUP. Heat a large spoonful of lard or butter. Stir into it, while hot, a half a table spoonful of flour. To this add a small bunch of parsley, a large onion, with plenty of ochra, all chopped up very find. Let it fry till it is quite brown ; then add a common-sized fowl cut up in lit- tle pieces, and let all fry together until quite cooked, Pour in about three quarts of hot water, and let it boil until reduced one-half. SAUCES OBSERVATIONS, Few things require more care than making sauces. As most of them should be stirred constantly, the whole attention ought to be directed to them. The better way is to prepare the sauces before cooking those articles which demand equal care, for they may be AND HOW TO CARVE. 31 kept hot in the bainmarie. Butter, and those sauces containing eggs ought never to boil. The thickest stewpans should be used for mak- ing sauces, and wooden spoons used for stirring them. APPLE SAUOE. Pare, core, and slice some apples, put them with a little water into the saucepan to prevent them from burning, and add a little lemon peel ; when sufficiently done, take out the latter, bruise the apples, put in a bit of butter, and sweeten it. BREAD SAUOE. Cut in slices the crumb of a French roll, to which add a few pep- percorns, one whole onion, a little salt, and boiling milk enough to cover it ; let it simmer gently by the side of the fire till the bread soaks up the milk, then add a little thick cream, take out the onion, and rub the whole through a sieve, make it very hot, and serve with game or fowls. LOBSTER SAUCE. Pound the coral, pour upon it two spoonfuls of gravy, strain it into some melted butter, then put in the meat of the lobster, give it all one boil, and add the squeeze of a lemon ; you may, if you please, add two anchovies pounded. MINT SAUCE. Take some nice fresh mint, chop it very small, and mix it with vinegar and sugar. MUSTARD SAUCE. Put two glasses of stock, shalots shred small, salt and pepper, into a saucepan, let them boil for half an hour, then add a tea-spoonful of mustard, stir it in well, and use it when required. ONION SAUCE. The onions must be peeled, and boiled till they are tender, then squeeze the water from them, chop them, and add butter that has been melted, rich and smooth, with a little good milk instead of water; give it one boil, serve it with boiled rabbits, patridges, scrag or knuckle of veal, or roast mutton- a turnip boiled with the onions draws out the strength. OYSTER SAUCE. In opening the oyster, save the liquor, and boil it with the beards, a bit of mace, and lemon peel ; in the meantime throw the oysters into cold water, and drain it off; strain the liquor, and put it into a 32 HOW TO COOK, saucepan with the oysters just drained from the cold water, with sufficient quantity of butter, mixed with as much milk as will make enough sauce, but first rub a Ifttle flour with it ; set them over the fire, and stir all the while, and when the butter has boiled a few times, take them off, and keep them close to the fire, but not upon it, for if too much done, the oysters will become hard ; add a squeeze of lemon juice, and §erve ; a little is a great improvement. PARSLEY SAUCE. Take a handful of parsley, and having washed and picked it, pound it well, and put it into a stewpan with some good cullis, set it on the fire, and let it simmer a quarter of an hour, then strain ; add a bit of butter rolled in flour, a liason, and a little lemonojuice. SALAD SAUCE. Rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs into a basin, add to it a table-spoonful of made mustard, then add three table-spoonfuls of salad oil, mixing it in smooth ; add white pepper, cayenne, salt, dust of sugar, five spoonfuls of thick bechemel, a table-spoonful of tarra- gon vinegar, the same of Chili vinegar, and two spoonfuls of common vinegar ; mix all well together with half a gill of cream. If this sauce is required for fish-salads, add a few drops of essence of ancho- vies, and sprinkle over the sauce a little fine-chopped parsley the last thing. SAUCE HARVEY. Chop twelve anchovies, bones and all, very small, with one ounce of cayenne pepper, six spoonfuls of soy, six ditto of good walnut pickle, three heads of garlic chopped not very small, a quarter of an ounce of cochineal, two heads of shalots chopped rather large, and one gallon of vinegar ; let it stand fourteen days, stir it well twice or thrice every day, then pass it through a jelly bag, and repeat this till it is quite clear ; then bottle it, and tie a bladder over the cork. SAUCE MINCED. Put into a saucepan, parsley, shalots, champignons, of each a spoonful shred, half a glass of vinegar, and a little pepper ; set these on the fire till there remains scarcely any vinegar, then add four laddlefuls of espagnole, and the same of stock ; reduce and take the fat from the sauce. When done put in a spoonful of capers, two gherkins shred, pour it into another saucepan, and set it in the bain marie ; just before it is sent to table, pound an anchovy or two with a little butter, which beat up with the sauce. HERBS, FINE SAUOE OF. Work up a piece of butler in some flour, melt it, and then put to AND HOW TO CARVE. 33 it the following herbs :— shred parsley, scallions, tarragon, borage, garden cress, chervil ; boil them all together for about a quarter of an hour, add a glass of stock, and serve it very hot. HORSERADISH SAUCE, HOT. Slice two onions, and fry them in oil, and when they begin to col- or, put them in a saucepan with a glass of white wine, the same of broth, two slices of lemon peeled, two cloves of garlic, a bay leaf, thyme, basil, and two cloves, boil these a quarter of an hour, and then strain it ; add capers and an anchovy chopped, pepper, salt, and a spoonful of horseradish boiled to a pulp, and warm the whole with- out boiling. HORSERADISH SAUCE, COLD. Chop up some parsley, chervil, shalots, a clove of garlic, capers, and anchovies ; to those add a spoonful of horseradish scraped very fine, a spoonful of oil, vinegar, pepper and salt. LAMB SAUCE. Roll a piece of butter in bread crumbs, shred parsley, and shalots, and boil it in a little stock and white wine, equal quantities ; a few minutes are sufficient, squeeze in a little lemon or orauge juice. LEMON SAUCE, WHITE, FOR BOILED FOWLS. Put the peel of a small lemon cut very thin into a pint of sweet rich cream, with a sprig of lemon thyme, and ten white peppercorns. Simmer it gently till it tastes well of the lemon, then strain it, and thicken it with a quarter of a pound of butter rubbed in a dessert- spoonful of flour, and boil it up ; after this, pour the juice of the le- mon strained into it, stirring well ; then dish the fowls, and mix a lit- tle white gravy quite hot with the cream, but do not boil them to- gether ; add salt according to taste. LIVER SAUCE. Take the livers of poultry or game, chop them very small with parsley, scallions, tarragon leaves, and shalots ; soak them in a little butter over the fire, and then pound them, adding cullis stock, pepper and salt. Give the whole a boil with two glasses of red wine, corian- der, cinnamon, and sugar, then reduce and strain it, thicken with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and serve it in a sauce-boat. LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE. Wash the liver of a fowl or rabbit, which should be quite fresh, and boil it for ten minutes in five tea-spoonfuls of water, chop it fine, pound it or bruise it in a small quantity of the liquor it was boiled in, and rub it through a hair sieve ; wash about one third its bulk of 34 HOW TO COOK, parsley leaves, boil them in a little boiling water with a little salt in it, lay it on a sieve to drain, and chop it very fine, then mix it with the .liver, and put to it a quarter of a pint of melted butter, and warm it up, but do not let it boil. OYSTER SAUCE FOR ENTREES. Blanch the oysters in their own liquor, then make a white roux, to which add a few small onions, mushrooms, parsley, and scallions ; moisten with some of the oyster liquor, and a ladleful or two of con- somme, set it on a brisk fire, and when reduced, add a pint of cream, season it, let the sauce be tolerably thick, strain it through a sieve, put in the oysters, and use it with those articles where it is required, such as fowl, turkey, and chicken ; if served with fish, essence of an- chovies must be added to the above ingredients. SUPERIOR SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING. Mix six yolks of eggs with four spoonfuls of sifted sugar and butter mixed together ; have a pint of boiling cream, which you will mix with your yolks, afterwards put it on the fire, and stir it until it is of the consistency of sauce, then add to it a good wine-glass of brandy. TOMATO SAUCE. Obtain fresh tomatoes, and take out the stalk, press them all tightly down in a stewpan, cover them, put them on the fire, strain off the liquor that is drawn from them, and add to the tomatoes a slice of raw ham, two shalots, a few spoonfuls of good stock, let it stew for an hour, then rub it through a tammy sieve. Have in another stew- pan a little good brown sauce, put your tomatoes into it, boil all together, season with cayenne, salt, sugar, and lemon juice. SAUCE ITALIENNE. Put some lemon thyme, parsley, and mushrooms, shred small and fine, into a stewpan, with a little butter and a clove of garlic, set it on a moderate fire, and as soon as the butter begins to fry, pour in a little consomme, and let it stew till pretty thick, then take out the garlic, and add some butter sauce and a little lemon juice. SAUCE, SWEET. Put some cinnamon into a saucepan with as much water as will cover it, set it on the fire, and when it has boiled up once or twice, add two spoonfuls of pounded sngar, a quarter of a pint of white wine, and two bay leaves, give the whole one boil, and then strain it for table. SAUCE, UNIVERSAL. Take half a dozen split shalots, a clove of garlic, two bay leaves, AND HOW TO CARVE. 35 basil, thyme, truffles, tarragon leaves, half an ounce of bruised mustard seed, some Seville ,'orange peel, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same of mace, double the quantity of long pepper, and two ounces of salt ; put all these ingredients to infuse in the juice of a lemon, half a glass of verjuice, four or five spoonfuls of vinegar, and a pint of white wine, put them into a jar, cover it as closely as possible, set it oh hot ashes for twenty-four hours, at the end of that time let it stand to settle, and when clear, pour it off, strain, and bottle it. SAUCE, WHITE. Beat up a quarter of a pound of butter and a tea-spoonful of flour, season with salt and pepper ; when well worked up, add a desert- spoonful of vinegar, and a little water, set these on the fire, and stir it till thick, but be careful not to let it boil TOMATO SAUCE FRANCAISE. Cut ten tomatoes into quarters, and put them into a saucepan with four onions sliced, a little parsley, thyme, one clove, and a quarter of a pound of butter ; set the saucepan on the fire, stirring occasionally, for three-quarters of an hour ; strain the sauce through a horse-hair sieve, and serve with the directed articles. TOMATO SAUCE A L'lTALIENNE. Take five or six ounces, slice and put them into a saucepan with a little thyme, bay leaf, twelve tomatoes, a bit of butter, salt, half a dozen allspice, a little Indian saffron, and a glass of stock ; set them on the fire, taking care to stir it frequently, as it is apt to stick ; when you perceive the sauce is thick, strain it like a puree. VENISON SAUCE. Serve with venison, currant jelly by itself, or warmed with port wine, or port wine warmed by itself. WALNUT KETCHUP FOR FISH SAUCE. Take a quart of walnut pickle, add to it a quarter of a pound of anchovies, and three quarters of a pint of red wine, and let it boil till reduced to one third, then strain it, and when cold, put it into small bottles and keep them closely corked. WINE MADEIRA SAUCE. Take a tea-spoonful of flour, and a preserved green lemon cut into dice, mix them with a glass of Madeira wine, and a little consomme, ounce of butter, some salt and nutmeg, set them on to boil for a nnarter of an hour, then take it off, put in a quarter of a pound of qu er, set it on the fire, stirring it until the butter is melted. 36 NOW TO COOK, SAUCE, BROWN. Take a poirod or two of beefsteaks, two or three pounds of yea!, gome pickings of fowls, carrots, and onions, put all these into a sauce* pan with a glass of water, and set it on a brisk fire ; when very little moisture remains, put it on a slow fire, that the jelly pay take color without burning, and as soon as it is brown, moisten it with' stock or water, add a bunch of green onions, two bay leaves, and two cloves, salt it well, and set it on the fire for three hours then strain ; dilute a little roux with your liquor, and let it boil an hour over a gentle fire, then take off all the fat and strain it through a bolting-cloth. CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH. Take some melted butter, into which throw a small bit of glaze, and when the sauce is in a state of readiness, throw into it some choice ca- pers, salt, and pepper, and a spoonful of essence of anchovies. CAPER SAUCE, TO IMITATE. Boil some parsley very slowly to let it become of a bad color, then cut it up, but not fine, put it into melted butter, with a tea-spoonful of salt, and a dessert spoonful of vinegar ; boil up and then serve. CALVES' BRAINS, WITH DIFFERENT SAUCES. Brains braised in wine and broth may be used with what sauces or ragout you please; such as fat livers, pigeons, sausages, onions, capers, fried bread. They take their name from the material with which they are mixed. CELERY SAUCE. Cut three heads of fine white celery into two-inch lengths, keep them so, or shred them down as straws, then boil them a few minutes, strain them, return them into the stewpan, and put either some brown or white stock, and boil it until tender ; if too much liquor, reduce it by boiling ; then add either white or brown sauce to it, season it with sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt. CHERVIL SAUCE. Put a few mushrooms, parsley, chervils, shalots, two cloves, a bay leaf, and a few tarragon leaves, into some melted butter ; let them soak for some time, then atld a little broth, white wiue, pepper, salt, then re- duce it to a proper thickness, but do not skim it : when done, put in some chervil scalded and chopped ; warm it all up together. COD SAUCE. Take a bunch of parsley, chervil, two shalots, two cloves, a bay leaf, some mushrooms, and a bit of butter, soak all together on the AND HOW TO CARVE. '87 fire, adding a small spoonful of flour, and milk or cream sufficient to boil to the consistence of a sauce ; also add to it some chopped pars- ley, first scalded. CUCUMBER SAUCE. Take two large cucumbers, pare them very carefully, and then cut them into lengths of about two inches round the ends, having done so, cut each length into four pieces, the seeds should be taken out, have a basin of vinegar and water ready, also pepper and salt ; as you cut them, put them into the basin, let them lie a quarter of an hour, take them out, put them into a stewpan with one onion, and a little brown stock ; boil it all until nearly dry, then put a few spoonfuls of brown sauce to it, the juice of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of vinegar, a little su- gar, pepper, and salt ; if for fine white sauce, add a gill of cream. DUTCH SAUCE. Place in a stewpan some scraped horse-radish, a sprig of thyme, a small onion, and two shalots, with sufficient vinegar to extract the es- sence of them : keep the lid on the stewpan while steeping. Have in another stewpan two yolks of raw eggs, with about two ounces of butter, and two table-spoonfuls of plain melted butter ; when all the roots are well run down, throw them into the other stewpan, put it on the fire, and stir till hot, but do not let it boil, then pass it through a tammy, and serve up, or pour over your fish, or whatever it may be re- quired for. EGO SAUCE. Boil three eggs hard, cut them in small squares, and mix them in good butter sauce ; make it very hot, and squeeze in some lemon juiefj before you serve it, FRESH PORK SAUCE. Cut two or three good sized onions into slices, and fry them lightly? then add a little broth, a few mushrooms chopped, a clove of garlic, Vinegar, and spice ; let it boil half an hour, reduce to a proper con- sistency, then skim and strain it. GARLIC SAUCE. Three or four garlics, divided, and boiled in a little white vinegar and white stock, with a small piece of lean ham ; when reduced, straiti it off, and add either white or brown sauce to the liquor ; season with Salt, pepper, and sugar ; but leave out the vinegar. CRANBERRY SAUCE. A quart of cranberries are washed and stewed with sufficient water 88 HOW TO COOK, to cover them ; when they burst mis with them a pound of brown su- gar and stir them well. Before you take them from the fire, all the berries should have burst. They will be jellied when cold. TO STEW CRANBERRIES. To a pound of cranberries allow a pound of sugar ; dissolve the su* gar in a very little water, boil it for ten minutes, and skim it well ; put them with the sugar and boil them slowly till they are quite soft. % BAKED APPLE SAUCE. Put a table-spoonful of water into a basin, and fill it with apples, pared, quartered, and cored : put them into a moderate oven, until they are reduced to a pulp ; beat them with a wooden spoon, adding a little sugar, and fresh butter. STEWED APPLE SAUCE. Pare and core some apples, put them into a preserve-pot, cover, and set it in a saucepan of water, to boil ; when soft, mix them with some butter, and sweeten with brown sugar. FORCEMEAT INGREDIENTS. Forcemeat should be made to cut with a knife, but not dry or heavy, no one flavor should predominate ; according to what it is wanted for a choice may be made from the following list ; — Be care- ful to use the least of those articles that are most pungent : cold fowl, Veal, or ham, scraped fat bacon, beef suet, crumbs of bread, parsley, white pepper, salt, nutmeg, yolks and whites of eggs beaten to bind the mixture, which makes excellent forcemeat. Any of the following articles may be used to alter the taste : — oysters, anchovies, tarragon, savory, pennyroyal, marjoram, thyme, basil, yolks of hard eggs, cay» enne, garlic, shalots, endives, pepper in powder, or two or three Cloves. .FORCEMEATS, ETC, Cold fowl, veal, or mutton. Lobster, tarragon. Scraped ham, or gammon. Savoy, pennyroyal. Pat bacou, or fat ham. Knotted marjoram. Beef suet. Thyme and lemon thyme. Teal suet. Basil and sage. Butter. Lemon peel. Marrow. Yolks of eggs. Soaked bread, and crumbs of Whites and yolks of egg§. bread. Mace and cloves. Parsley and white pepper. Cayenne and garlic. Salt and nutmeg. Shalot and onion. AND HOW TO CARVE. 39 Cold soles. Chives and chervil. Oysters. Ground pepper and two or Anchovies. three cloves. BROWN COLORING FOR MADE DISHES. Take four ounces of sugar, beat it fine, put it into an iron frying- pan or earthen pipkin, set it over a clear fire, and when the sugar is melted it will be frothy, put it higher from the fire until it is a fine brown, keep it stirring all the time ; fill the pan up with red wine, and take care that it does not boil over ; add a little salt and lemon, put a little cloves and mace, a shalot or two, boil it gently for ten minutes, pour it in a basin till it is cold, then bottle it for use. MUSHROOM WHITE SAUCE. Have ready some cream sauce rather thinner than usual, to this put a few small white mushrooms, reduce it to the proper consistence, and it is then ready. ANCHOVY SAUCE. To about half a pint of melted butter put two table-spoon fulls of good essence of anchovies, with the juice of half a lemon. Serve very hot. SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. OBSERVATIONS ON CLEANING AND DRESSING PISH. Before dressing fish of any kind, great care should be taken that it is well washed and cleansed, but be cautious not to wash it too much, as the flavor is much diminished by too much water. When boiling fish, put a little salt and a little vinegar into the water to give it firm- ness. Be careful to let fish be well done, but not to let it break. When very fresh, cod and whiting are very much improved by keep- ing a day, and rubbing a little salt down the back-bone. Fresh- water fish often have a muddy smell and taste, which is easily got rid of by soaking it. After it has been thoroughly cleansed in strong salt and water, if the fish is not too large, scald it in the same, then dry and dress it. Put the fish in cold water, and let it boil very gently, or the outside will break before the inside is warm. Put all crimped fish into boil- ing water, and when it boils up, some cold water should be put into it to check it, and keep it simmering. All fish should be taken out of the. water the instant it is done, or it will become woollv. To as- 40 sow no cook , certain when it is done, the fish-plate may be drawn up, and, if done, the meal will leave the bone, lo keep it hot, and to prevent it losing its color, the fish-plate should be placed across the fish-kettle, and a clean cloth put over the fish. Small fish may be nicely fried plain, or done with egg and bread crumbs, and then fried. On the dish on which the fish is to be served should be placed damask napkin, folded, and upon this put the fish, with the roe and liver ; then garnish the dish with horse-radish, parsley, and lemon. To broil or fry fish nicely, after it is well washed, it should be put in a cloth, and when dry, wetted with egg and bread crumbs. It will be much improved by being wetted with egg and crumbs a second time. Then have your pan ready with plenty of boiling dripping or lard, put your fi^k into it, and let it fry rather quickly till it is of a nice brown and appears done. If it is done before being nicely brown- ed, it should be taken from the pan, and placed on a sieve before the fire to drain and brown. If wanted very nice, put a sheet of cajp paper to receive the fish. Should you fry your fish in oil, it obtains a much finer color than when done in lard or dripping. Never use butter, as it makes the fish a bad color. Garnish your dish with green or fried parsley. In broiling fish, be careful that your gridiron is clean ; place it on the fire, and when hot rub it over with suet, to hinder the fish from sticking, The fish must be floured and seasoned before broiling. It must be broiled over a clear fire only, and great care must be taken that it does not burn or become smoky. Broiled fish for breakfast should always be skinned, buttered, and peppered. Fish are boiled, fried, broiled, baked, stewed, in fact cooked in every imaginable fashion ; those named are the chief methods. In every kind the greatest attention and cleanliness must be exercised. A broken, disfigured, abrased, or ill-cooked dish of fish presented at table, is quite sufficient to destroy the taste for it for ever ; on the contrary, when neatly done, it heightens the relish which every one possesses more or less, and imparts an appetite where one may be wanting, while the cook is held in grateful remembrance. TO CHOOSE FISH. Salmon, The fish stiff, the scales very bright, the belly thick, the gills a brilliant color, and the flesh when cut a beautiful red, will prove it to be a fine fresh fish. It cannot be too fresh. Cod, The best fish are thick at the neck, very red gills, firm white flesh, bright, and blood-shot eyes, and small head. Herrings. Tery red gills, blood-shot eyes, very bright scales, and the fish stiff, shows them to be good and fresh. Flounders may be chosen as above. AND HOW fO CAfcVE. 41 Mackerel. Bright eyes, thick bodies, the prismatic colors very predominant on the belly, denote freshness and goodness. Pike, Ac, may be judged by the above rules. Eels. The silver eel, is the best ; the bright-hued belly and thick- ness of back are the guides in selection. SHELL FISH. Lobsters. To be had in perfection should be boiled at home ; choose the heaviest. When they are boiled the tail should have a good spring ; the cock lobster has a narrow tail in which the two uppermost fins are stiff and hard ; the hen has a broad tail, and these fins are softer. The male has the best flavor 5 the flesh is firmer, and the color when broiled is brighter than the hen. Crabs, like lobsters, should be selected by weight ; when prime, the leg-joints are stiff and the scent pleasant. Shrimps should be bright and the bodies firm and stiff; when limp and soft they are stale. Oysters. There are many sorts of oysters ; when the oyster is alive the shell will close upon the knife ; the common oyster should be used for sauce, and the others, of which there are several kinds, should be sent to table. a few choice dishes for top removes," entrees, salads, etc, cold, Plai and crimp cod. Smelts fried. Broiled mackerel and fennel sauce. Boiled mackerel and fennel sauce. Pried flounders and shrimp sauce. Boiled flounders and anchovy sauce. Pike boiled and stuffed, and anchovy sauce. Pike baked and stuffed, and anchovy sauce. Salmon boiled and broiled, and lobster sauce. Salmon with capers. Salmon cutlets. Salmon in papers Salmon in quenelles. Salmon in curry. Pillets of mackerel, maitre d'hote!. Slices of cod with capers. Slices of cod with oyster sauce. Slices of cod with curry. Eels stewed and fried. p COD, DOILED. The thickness of this fish being very unequal, the head and sliotiP ders greatly preponderating, it is seldom boiled whole, because, in n 42 HOW TO COOK, large fish, the tail, from its thinness in comparison to the upper part of the fish, would be very much overdone. Whenever it is boiled whole, a small fish should be selected. Tie up the head and shoulders well, place it in the kettle with enough cold water to completely cover it ; cast in a handful of salt. The fish, if a small one, will be cook- ed in twenty minutes after it has boiled ; if large, it will take half an hour. When done enough, drain it clear of the scum, and remove the string ; send it to table garnished with the liver, the smelt, and the roe of the fish, scraped horseradish, lemon sliced, and sprigs of pars- ley. The garnish sometimes consists of oysters fried, or small fish fried, or whitings : this is at the option of the cook. Anchovy or oyster sauce is served with it. . The tail, when separated from the body of the fish, may be cooked in a variety of fashions. Some salt rubbed into it, and hanging it two days, will render it exceedingly good when cooked. It may be spread open and throughly salted, or it may be cut into fillets, and fried. If the cod is cooked when very fresh, some salt should be rubbed down the back and the bone before boiling ; it much improves the flavor ; or, if hung for a day, the eyes of the fish should be removed, and salt filled in the vacancies. It will be found to give firmness to the fish, and add to the richness of the flavor. COD SCALLOPED. Take enough cold dressed cod to nearly fill all the shells you pur- pose using, pound it, beat up the yolk of an egg and pour over it, add a few shrimps skinned, salt, pepper, and a little butter ; do not quite fill the shells, strew over them fine bread crumbs, and drop butter in a liquid state over them. Brown them before the fire in a Dutch oven. TAIL OF A COD. Boil as previously directed, and when sufficiently done, that the meat may de easily removed from the bones, divide it into moderate sized pieces, and in a light batter fry them brown. Send up crisped parsley with it as a garnish. It is sometimes cooked plainly with oyster sauce. BAKED COD. Cut a large fine piece out of the middle of the fish, and skin it carefully; stuff it with a stuffing composed of the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, the roe half-boiled, bread crumbs, grated lemon-peel, but- ter, pepper, and salt to taste. Blind it with the undressed white of an egg, and sew in the stuffing with white thread, bake it in a Dutch AND HOW TO CARVE. 43 oven before the fire, turn it frequently, and baste it with butter ; serve with shrimp sauce, plain butter, or oyster sauce. A tin baking-dish is preferable to any other for cooking this fish. cod's head. • Secure it well with strong string, not too thick ; put it into a fish- kettle, cover it with water, and put in a small handful of salt, a wine- glassful of vinegar, and a quantity of scraped horseradish. Place the fish upon a drainer, and when the water boils, put it into the kettle. Boil gently ; when the fire rises to the surface, it is enough ; drain it, and be very particular in sliding the fish into the fish-plate that it is not broken. Garnish with scraped horseradish and lemon. Serve with shrimp and oyster sauce. COD FISH PIE. Take a piece from the middle of a good sized fisk, salt it well all night, then wash it, and season with salt, pepper, and a few grains of nutmeg, a little chopped parsley and some oysters, put all iu your dish, with pieces of butter on the fish ; add a cup of good second white stock and cream ; cover it with a good crust, adding a little lemon juice in the gravy. CURRY OF COD. This is a firm fish if good ; when cold, you can seperate the flakes, and proceed as before, adding two dozen of large oysters to your fish. SALT COD. There are a variety of opinions upon the method of dressing this dish, many laboring so hard with soaking and brushing, to produce tenderness, and accomplishing that one end at the expense of the flavor. It is doubtless an essential point to remove the dry unwhole- some hardness of the fish, but it is equally essential to retain the fla- vor, and experience has taught the author that the following process is the most successful of any he has hitherto attempted : — Soak the fish for eight hours in clean cold water (not spring water.) let the water have enough vinegar in it to impregnate it with a slight flavor and no more after soaking the above time, take it out and let, it drain three or four hours, then put it in soak again for four hours ; when this has been done, place it in a fish-kettle with plenty of cold soft water, let it come to a boil very slowly, place it on the side of the fire, and it will cook gradually until enough. Serve with pars- nips and egg sauce. ANOTHER WAY. Wash and soak the fish, lay it twelve hours in water in which two 44 HOW TO COOK, wine-glasses of vinegar have been poured, put the fish in cold water in the fish-kettle, bring it gradually to a boil, and then boil slowly until enough ; take it out, drain it, break it into flakes upon a dish, beat up boiled parsnips and pour over it, boil up with cream and a good sized piece of butter rubbed in flour. Serve with egg or pars- nip sauce ; if the latter" send the root up whole. CURRIED GOD. Cut some handsome steaks of cod, slice a number of onions, and fry both a good brown color, stew the fish in white gravy, add a large tea-spoonful of curry powder, a third that quantity of cayenne pepper, thicken with three spoonfuls of cream, a little butter, a pinch of salt, and a little flour. COD FRICASEED. Take the sounds, scald them and cut them into small pieces, if they have been dried, boil them until they are tender, take some roes and the liver, blanch the roes, cut them into pieces an inch thick, and an equal quantity of the liver, boil for the middle of a fine piece of Cod, put them into a stewpan, season with grated nutmeg, a little pounded mace, an onion, a few sweet herbs, a sprinkle of salt, and add half a pint of boiling water (fish broth is better if convenient,) cover down close, stew for seven or eight minutes, then add four glass- es of port, six oysters with the liquor strained, and a piece of butter floured ; stew gently, shaking the pan round occasionally until they are done enough, remove the onion and the herb3, dish up, garnish with lemon, and serve. COD SOUNDS, RAGOUT. The sounds should not be much soaked, but thoroughly cleaned, simmer them for a short time, broil them, having first floured them ; When they are just tender, stew them in white gravy which has been well seasoned, add a little cream, a bit of butter, a spoonful of flour, give it a boil, flavor with nutmeg, a small piece of lemon peel, a dash of pounded mace, and serve. SLICES OF COD. Three slices make a small dish ; put them in a baking-dish, cover them over with some good second stock, a little essence of anchovies; when done, thicken the stock, and pass it through a tammy, pour it over your fish, season with cayenne pepper, and salt, and lemon juice; if. for capers, add them ; if for maitred 'hotel, add cream and parsley shopped fine. cod sounds, soiled. Af boiled they should first be soaked in warm water, or scalded in AND HOW TO CARTE. 45 hot water ; the latter is the quickest, the former is the surest method; they should soak half an hour if put into warm water, the dirty skin should be removed, and when thoroughly cleaned, boiled in equal parts of milk and water until tender. They should be sent to table with egg sauce. CRIMPED COD. Cut the cod, which should be quite fresh, in handsome slices, and lay it for about three hours in spring water salted, adding a little vinegar, say one wine-glassful ; make a fish kettle more than three parts full of spring water, in which a large handful of salt has been thrown, let it boil quickly, put in the cod, and keep it boiling for ten minutes, it will then be done enough ; take up the slices of fish, gar- nish with sprigs of parsley, sliced lemon, and horseradish scraped in- to curls ; serve with shrimp and oyster sauce. STEWED COD. Cut some of the finest pieces from the thickest part of the fish, place them in a stewpan with a lump of butter the size of a walnut, or larger, three or four blades of mace, bread crumbs, pepper, salt, a small bunch of sweet herbs, and some oysters, with a little of their own liquor. When nearly done, add a large wine-glass of sherry, and stew gently until enough. HERRINGS. Herrings are dressed in a variety of fashions ; they are fried, boil- ed, broiled, potted, baked, smoked, pickled. There are three sorts of herrings, fresh, salted, and red herrings ; they are cleaned like any other sort of fish. When fresh, they are boiled, and served with melted butter, white sauce, &c. The salted herring should be soaked in cold water before it is cooked, this is broiled, but sometimes it is cut in pieces and eaten raw. The red herring is split down the back, the head and tail taken off, and the fish broiled like the others ; they may be also dressed in the following manner : when they have laid in cold water some time, soak them in milk for two hours, then split them down the back, have ready some melted butter in which has been mixed basil and bay leaf minced small, the yolks of two eggs, pepper, and nutmeg, rub the herrings well with this butter, then broil them over a gentle fire, and serve with lemon juice. The best red herrings are full of roe, are firm and large, and have a yellow cast ; if the fresh herrings are good the scales are bright, the eye is full, the gill red, and the fish should be stiff. FRESH HERRINGS BAKED. Wash the herrings in clear spring water, and when they are 46 HOW TO COOK, thoroughly clean, drain them, and then, without wiping them, lay them in a dish or baking-pan ; pepper and salt them, chop finely two or three onions, some parsley, thyme, and strew over them ; cover them in equal proportions of vinegar and small beer ; tie them over, and let them bake one hour in a slow oven. They should be kept in the pickle, and make a pleasant dish when cold. FRESH HERRINGS BOILED. Clean them, wash them over with vinegar, fasten the heads to the tails, and put them in boiling water ; they will take, from ten to twelve minutes. Garnish with parsley, and serve melted butter, in which a table spoonful of ketchup, a tea-spoonful of Chili vinegar, and one of made mustard has been mixed while making. FRESH HERRINGS BROILED. To broil them, steep them first in vinegar and water into which a handful of salt has been thrown ; let them remain ten minutes, then take them out and broil them over a clear fire (the bars of the grid- iron should be rubbed with suet, to prevent the skin of the fish ad- hering to it.) Serve, garnished with parsley. They may be eaten with melted butter, with a little mustard and vinegar in it, or lemon juice instead of the latter, being preferable. FRESH HERRINGS FRIED. Slice small onions, and lay in the pan with the fish, or fry seper- ately, as judgment may dictate ; serve the fish with the onions laid round them. The herrings are generally fried without the onions, but those who are partial to this strongly-flavored vegetable will pre- fer the addition. TO POT HERRINGS. Take from one to two dozen herrings, according to the number you purpose potting ; choose them as large, fine, and fresh as you can. Take two ounces of salt, one of saltpetre, two of allspice, reduce them to an impalpable powder, and rub them well into the herrings ; let them remain with the spice upon them eight hours to drain, wipe off the spice clean, and lay them on a pan on which butter has been rubbed ; season with nutmeg, mace, pepper, salt, and one clove in powder, one ounce each, save the last ; lay in two or three bay leaves, cover with butter and bake gently three hours. When cool, drain off the liquor, pack the fish in the pots intended for their use, cover to the depth of half an inch with clarified butter, sufficiently melted just to run, but do not permit it to be hot ; they will be ready for eating in two days. AND BOW TO CARVE. 47 LOBSTER CURRIED. Take the meat of a fine lobster, or two, if small, place in a stew- pan two dessert-spoonfuls of curry powder, add two ounces of butter, an onion cut in very tine strips, and three dessert-spoonfuls of fish stock. When they are stewed well, add the lobster, simmer gently an hour, squeeze iu half a lemon, and reason with a little salt. LOBSTER STEWED. Extract from the shells of two lobsters, previously boiled, all of the meat ; take two-thirds of a quart of water, and stew the shells in it, with mace, unground pepper, and salt. Let it boil an hour or more, till you have obtained all that is to be got from them ; then strain. Add the richest portions of the lobster, and some of the best of the firm meat, to some thin melted butter ; squeeze a little lemon juice in- to it , add a table-spoonful of Madeira, pour this into the gravy, and when warmed it is ready to serve. LOBSTER BUTTER. The hen lobster should be selected, on account of the coral , take out the meat and spawn, and bruise it in a mortar ; add to it a tea- spoonful of white wine, season with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little grated lemon peel ; add four ounces of butter, slightly dusted over with flour. Work this well together, and rub it through a hair sieve. It should be kept in a cool place till ready to serve. TO ROAST LOBSTERS. Take a live lobster, half boil it, take it from the kettle in which it is boiling, dry it with a cloth, and while hot, rub it over with butter, and set it before a good firs, basting it with butter ; when it produces a fiue froth, it is done, Serve with melted butter. MACKEREL. Clean the fish thoroughly, remove the roe, steep it in vinegar and water, and replace it ; pface the fish in water from which the chill has been taken, and boil very slowly from fifteen to twenty minutes ; the best criterion is the starting of the eyes and splitting of the tail — when that takes place, the fish is done ; take it out instantly, or you will not preserve it whole. Garnish with parsley, and chopped pars- ley in melted butter, serve up as sauce. TO BAKE MACKEREL. Open and clean thoroughly, wipe very dry, pepper and salt the in- side, and put in a stuffing composed of powdered bread crumbs, the roe chopped small, parsley, and sweet herbs, but very few of the lat- ter, work these together with the yolk of an egg, pepper and salt to 48 NOW TO COOK, taste, and sew it in the fish ; then place the latter in a deep baking dish, and dredge it with flour slightly, adding a little cold butter in small pieces, put the fish into an oven, and twenty-eight or thirty min- utes will suffice to cook them. Send them in a hot dish to table, with parsley and butter. TO BROIL MACKEREL. Cleanse it well, and cut with a sharp knife a gash from head to tail, just sufficient on one side to clear the backbone, pass into the in- cision a little pepper (cayenne) and salt, moistened with clarified but- ter, broil it over a clear fire, but be particular that the bars of the gridiron are well rubbed over with suet, to prevent the skin of the mackerel adhering in turning ; the sides being the thinnest part, they will be first done ; therefore, when they are done, take the fish off the gridiron, and hold it in front of the fire for five minutes, the back of the fish being next the fire, and the fish will be thoroughly done ; this is the readiest and most effective mode. The sauce may be the same as for boiled mackerel, or sauce a la maitre d'hotel. FILLETS OP MACKEREL. Take the fish in fillets from the bones lengthways, and divide each into two or three pieces, according to the size of the fish. Put into a stewpan a pint offish broth, and if not seasoned in the making suf- ficiently, add a little cayenne and salt to taste, chop finely a little parsley, part of the rind of a green lemon, if to be obtained, if not, as young a one as can be got, add it to the broth, lay on the fillets, and stew ten or twelve minutes. About three minutes before the fillets are done, add one glass of port wine, one of Harvey's sauce, half the quantity of soy, and the juice of a quarter of a lemon. When the fil- lets are done, which will be observable in the disposition of the thin- ner parts beginning to crack, dish tenderly, thicken the sauce, add a little mixed mustard, and pour it over the fillets. Garnish with pic- kles, or fried bread sippets. FILLETS BOILED. Separate as before place them in a stewpan in luke warm water, and put in a pinch of salt and a little parsley ; when they have boiled five minutes they will be done ; this may be tried by seeing if the flesh dividesreadily. Remove the scum as fast as it rises, and draim the fillets before dishing them. Serve with parsley and butter. TO FRY MACKEREL. It may be observed, as a rule, to prevent the too frequent repeti- tion of the same thing, that it is to be supposed the fish must be tho- roughly cleaned and gutted, unless directions to the contrary are giv- AND HOW TO CARVE. 49 en ; supposing then the flsh have been cleaned and emptied, cut off the tails, and with a sharp knife lay the fish completely open, and re- move the back-bone ; this feat should be skilfully performed, or the appearance of the fish will be materially altered, and by no means im- proved. Dry the mackerel thoroughly, sprinkle with powdered salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and when the lard in the fryingpan is boiling, lay them in, and fry them a clear brown. Serve with melted butter, in which has been mixed one spoonful of Harvey's sauce, one ditto of mustard, and two of Chili vinegar ; or boil half a dozen small onions, and while boiling rapidly, lay in a young cucumber one min- ute, with a faggot of fennel and parsley. Chop the latter finely, and cut the cucumber into shapes, add pepper and salt, put them into a stewpan with a lump of butter for three or four minutes, then place the vegetables on the fish, and squeeze a large lemon over them. OYSTERS. f Procure a barrel of oysters, packed as for transmission to the coun- try. Put into a vessel large enough to contain the barrel sufficient water, that when the barrel is in, it may be covered. Heat the water to a boil ; when it is boiling, put in the barrel of oysters just as you have received it ; let it boil twelve minutes ; take it out, knock off 1 the head, and serve immediately. The flavor of the hot oyster will be found delicious. ROAST OYSTERS. Large oysters not opened, a few minutes before they are wanted, put them on a gridiron over a moderate fire. When done they will open, do not lose the liquor that is in the shell with the oysters ; serve them hot upon a napkin. AN OYSTER PIE, WITH SWEETBREADS. Blanch them, and take off the beards ; separate them from the li- quor, blanche some throat sweetbreads, and when cold, cut them in slices, then lay them and the oysters in layers in your dish, and sea- son with salt, pepper, and a few grains of mace and nutmeg ; add some thick sauce, a little cream, and the oyster liquor, and some good veal stock ; bake in a slow oven. STEWED OYSTERS. The oysters should be bearded and rinsed in their own liquor, which should then be strained and thickened with flour and butter, and placed with the oysters in a stewpan ; add mace, lemon peel cut into shreds, and some white pepper whole ; these ingredients had bet- ter be confined in a piece of muslin. The stew must simmer only, if 50 HOW TO COOK, it is suffered to boil, the oysters will become hard ; serve with sippets of bread. This may be varied by adding a glass of wine to the li- quor, before the oysters are put in and warmed. SCALLOPED OYSTERS. Beard the oysters, wash in their own liquor, steep bread crumbs in the latter, put them with the oysters into scallop shells, with a bit of butter, and seasoning of salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg ; make a paste with bread crumbs and butter ; cover, and roast them before the iire, or in an oven. OYSTER FRITTERS. Beard, dip them into an omelette, sprinkle well with crumbs of bread, and fry them brown. PIKE TO CHOOSE. If fresh, the gills will be red, the fish stiff, and eyes bright ; the best sort are caught in rivers, the worst in ponds ; it is a very dry fish and very much improved by stuffing and sauce. TO BAKE PIKE. Clean and empty the fish thoroughly, but do not disturb the scales in the operation, stuff it with oyster forcemeat, and skewer the tail to the mouth, sprinkle over it a little salt, and dredge a little flour, stick small pieces of butter over it, and bake in a steady oven forty to fifty minutes ; this must be regulated by the size of the fish. To the sauce which will be found in the dish when the pike is done, a lit- tle melted butter with a spoonful of essence of anchovies may be add- ed, and a small quantity of grated lemon peel or lemon pickle ; also a table-spoonful of sherry, one of Harvey's sauce, and a little cayenne, will render the gravy exceedingly pleasant. PIKE, TO BOIL. Wash and clean the fish thoroughly ; unless you are very particu- lar in this, you will not conquer an earthy taste, which, from a want of the proper application of the cook's art, too often appears. It is usual to stuff it with forcemeat, more for the purpose of destroying that peculiarity than from any additional flavor or zest it gives the fish. Having cleaned well and stuffed with forcemeat, skewer the head to the tail, lay it upon a drainer and put it in the fish-kettle, let it have plenty of water, into which you may throw a handful of salt and a glassful of vinegar ; when it boils, remove the scum as fast as it rises ; it will take three quarters of an hours dressing, if a tolera- ble size ; if very large, an hour ; if small, half an hour ; serve with melted butter and lemon sliced or whole. Anchovy sauce may be AND HOW TO CARVE. 51 eaten with the fish. It is always the best method, where a variety of fancies exist, to send the sauce-cruets to table, and permit every one to gratify his peculiar taste. TO BAKE A SHAD. Empty and wash the fish with care, but do not open it more thau is necessary, and keep on the head and fins. Then stuff it with force- meat. Sew it up, or fasten it with fine skewers, and rub the fish over with the yolk of egg and a little of the stuffiing. Put into the pan in which the fish is to be baked, about a gill of wine, or the same quantity of water mixed with a table-spoonful of Cayenne vinegar, or common vinegar will do. Baked in a moderate oven 1 1-2 or 2 hours, or according to its size. TO BROIL SHAD. This delicate and delicious fish is excellent broiled. Clean, wash, and split the shad, wipe it dry and sprinkle it with pepper and salt — broil it like makeral. TO FRY SHAD. Clean the fish, cut off the head, and split it down the back ; save the roe and eggs when taking out the entrails. Cut the fish in pieces about three inches wide, rinse each in cold water, and dry on a cloth ; use wheat flour to rub each piece. Have ready hot salted lard and lay in the fish, inside down, and friy till of a fine brown, then turn and fry the other side. Fry the roe and egg with the fish. TO BAKE A SHAD, ROCK-FISH, OR BASS. Clean the fish carefully, sprinkle it lightly with salt and let it lie a a few minutes ; then wash it, season it slightly with Cayenne pepper and salt, and fry it gently a light brown. Prepare a seasoning of bread crumbs, pounded mace and cloves, majoram, parsley, Cayenne pepper and salt ; strew it over and in the fish ; let it stand an hour. Put it in a deep dish, and set it in the oven to bake ; to a large fish, put in the dish half pint of water, one pint of wine, Port and Ma- deira mixed, half tea-cupful of mushrooms or tomato ketchup ; to a small one allow in proportion the same ingredients ; baste frequently, and garnish with sliced lemon. DRESSED CRAB. The white part of the crab forms a wall within the dish, the yellow part of the crab is mixed with vinegar, mustard, &c, so as to form a pool within. DRESSED CRAB. Another way— Get a large crab, take off the claws, then pull 00 52 HOW TO COOK, the body from the shell, the white meat, keep by itself, and the soft yellow meat by itself, wash and trim the large black shell, then ou one side put all the white meat, and on the the other side put the soft meat, dividing the two with slices of cucumber or radishes. Crack the big bones or claws, and lay them underneath the crab to stand upou. Dish it up on a napkin. CRABS — TO DRESS CRABS. Scoop the meat from the shell, mix the meat into a paste with a little vinegar, bread crumbs, grated nutmeg, and a little butter, or sweet oil ; return it into the shell, and serve. To serve this hot, it should be heated before the fire, and served up with dry toast cut into large squares or dice. BAKED CRABS Remove the meat from the shell, mix it with bread crumbs — about one-fourth will be sufficient ; add white pepper, salt, a little cayenne, grated nutmeg, and half a, dozen small lumps of butter, each about the size of a nut ; this last ingredient should be added to the fish, af- ter it had been returned to the shell. Squeeze lemon juice over it ; lay a thick coat of bread crumbs over all, and bake. COLLARED EELS. The eels destined to be dressed as above should be the finest which can be selected : the skin must not be removed, but the bone must be carefully and cleverly extracted. Spread out the fish, and with some finely-chopped sage, parsley, and mixed spices, rub the fish well over; then take some broad white tape, and bind up the fish tightly ; throw a good handful of salt into the water in which it is to be boiled, and a couple of bay leaves. Boil three quarters of an hour, aud if the fish be taken out and hung to dry for twelve hours, it will be better for it when served. Add to the water in which the fish has been boiled a pint of vinegar, a little whole pepper, and some knotted mar- joram or thyme. This pickle also should, after boiling about twelve minutes, besufiered to stand as long as the eels are recommended to be hung; previous to serving, the fish must be unrolled so as to abrase the skin as little as possible, and put them into the pickle. Send up in slices or whole, according to taste ; garnish with parsley. EELS BREAD-CRUMBED. Cut your fish the size as before, dry and flour them, and proceed as for other fried fish, dishing them on a napkin with fried parsley. FRIED EELS. Cut into pieces same length as above, cleaned nicely and well-dried; let them be coated with yolk of egg, powdered with bread crumbs ; AND HOW TO CARVE. 53 fry them brown ; serve with parsley and butter, and garnish with handsome sprigs of parsley. BOILED EEL. Choose the smallest, simmer in a small quantity of water, into which a quantity of parsley has been put. Garnish and serve with same sauce as the last. EELS STEWED. Procure six or seven large ones, and proceed, after having cut them about three inches in length, as for carp, leaving out the wine until last, add to your sauce some very fine chopped parsley, and a shalot, aud pour the sauce over the fish. EELS STEWED. This is a dish frequently made for invalids, and to the taste of ma* ny, fitted always to appear on the table of an emperor : there are va- rious methods of stewing them, but the simplest is always the best because, without exception, the flavour of the fish is preserved, when, in too many cases, it is wholly destroyed by the number of ingredi- ents employed ; indeed the skill of the professed cook is most frequent- ly exerted to give the various esculents they prepare for the table an opposite taste to that which they naturally possess. To stew eels, they should be cut in pieces about three inches long, and fried until they are about half cooked ; they will be then brown : let them get cold, take some good beef gravy, and an onion, parsley, plenty of white pepper, a little salt, some sage chopped very fine, enough only to add to the flavour, and a little mace, place the eels in this gravy, and stew until they are tender ; two anchovies may be finely chopped and added, with two tea-spoonfuls of mustard, already made, some walnut ketchup, and a glass of red wine : serve with sip- pets of toasted bread. Or after being stewed until tender, a glass of port wine may be added, half a lemon squeezed into it : strain and thicken with butter and flour. HALIBUT May be cut in fillets, and dressed as mackerel fillets. HALIBUT STEWED. Put in a stewpan half a pint of fish broth, a table-spoonful of vin- egar, and one of mushroom ketchup ; add an anchovy, two good sized onions cut in quarters, a bunch of sweet herbs, and one clove of gar» lie also add a pint and a half of water, and let it stew an hour and a quarter, then strain it oS" clear, and put into it the head and should" ers of a fine halibut and stew until tender ; thicken with butter and flour, and serve. 54 HOW TO COOK, HALIBUT COLLOPED. Cut the fish into nice cutlets, of about an inch thick, and fry them; then put them into a broth made of the bones, four onions, a stick of celery, and a buudle of sweet herbs, boiled together for one half an hour. STURGEON BOILED. Soak the fish in salt and water four hours, remove it, and bathe with pyroligneous acid diluted with water, let it drain an hour, then put it into boiling water, let it be r well covered, add three onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, and a small quantity of bay-salt. When it is boiled so tender that the bones will separate readily, remove it from the fire, take away bones and skin, cut it into slices, dredge it with flour, brown it before the fire, and serve with a gravy, the same as given above for roasting. STURGEON BROILED. Cut a fine piece of the fish, and skinning it, divide it into slices Beat up three eggs, and dip each of the slices into them ; powder fine bread crumbs mixed with finely-chopped parsley, pepper and salt over them, fold them in paper, and broil them, being careful that the fire is clear. Send them to table with essence of anchovies and soy, ac- companied by cold butter. BEFORE YOU BAKE STURGEON. Let it lie several hours in salt and water ,then boil it until the bones can be removed ; pour vinegar over your fish and in the water and salt. When done, take it out to cool, then egg and bread-crumb it, then sprinkle clarified butter over it, place it in a moderate hot oven to brown ; make a very thick sauce from your kidneys and good stock with a table-spoonful of essence of anchovies, season it with cayenne pepper, salt, dust of sugar, juice of lemon, and a glass of wine. TO BOIL HALIBUT. Take a halibut, or what you require. Put it into the fish-kettle with the back of the fish undermost, cover it with cold water, in which a handful of salt, and a bit of saltpetre the size of a hazel nut, have been dissolved. When it begins to boil, skim it carefully, and then let it just simmer till it is done. Four pounds of fish will re- quire nearly thirty minutes, to boil it. Drain it, garnish with horse- radish — egg sauce or plain melted butter, are served with it. SALMON, TO BOIL. This fish cannot be cooked too soon after being caught ; it should be put into a kettle with plenty of cold water, and a handful of salt ; the AND HOW TO CARVE. 55 addition of a small quantity of vinegar will add to the firmness of the fish ; let it boil gently. For four pounds of salmon, fifty minutes will be enough ; if thick, a few minutes more may be allowed. The best way to ascertain whether it be done is to pass a knife between the bone and the fish, if it separates readily, it is done ; this should be tried in the thickest part. When cooked, lay it on the fish-strainer, transversely across the kettle, so that the fish, while draining, may be kept hot. Place a fish-plate upon tne'dish on which the salmon is to be served, fold a clean white napkin, lay it upon the fish-plate, and place the salmon upon the napkin. Garnish with parsley. SALMON BROILED. Cut the fish in inch slices from the best part, season well with pep" per and salt ; wrap each slice in white paper, which has been buttered with fresh butter,; fasten each end by twisting or tying ; broil over a very clear fire eight minutes. A coke fire, if kept clear and bright, is best. Serve with butter, anchovy, or tomato sauce. DRIED SALMON BROirED. Cut and cook as above, save that when it is warmed through it is enough. Serve plain, if for breakfast, or with egg sauce, if for din- ner. SALMON ROASTED. Take a large piece of the middle of a very fine salmon, dredge well with flour, and while roasting baste it with butter. Serve, garnished with lemon. STEWED SALMON, Scrape the scales clean off, cut it in slices, stew them in rich white gravy, add, immediately previous to serving, one table-spoonful of es- sence of anchovies, a little parsley, chopped very fine, and a pinch of salt. DRESSED SALMON. All salmon, whether crimped, split, or in slices, should go through the same process in dressing, but you can vary your sauces as may be most approved of. Put your salmon either in a fish-kettle, or a large baking-dish ; if a dish, you must cover it with butter paper, and frequently baste it with the marinda, which is made thus ; cut a carrot, turnip, celery, onions, sweet herbs, two blades of mace, whole pepper, six cloves, a bay leaf, six anchovies, a cup of vinegar, a quart of good brown second stock, two glasses of sherry ; then put on your salmon, letting it stew until done, then drain off all the stock from the fish, and thick- 56 HO T ,f TO COOK, en it and strain it through a tammy ; if for capers, add them in the sauce you have put through the tammy and boil it for some time, re- moving all grease that rises, season with lemon juice, cayenne pepper, salt and sugar, and if required, a little essence of anchovies. Pour this sauce over the fish. Get about two pounds of salmon, rather thick part, and with a sharp knife cut as near as possible the shape of cutlets ; have ready a sauce- pan with some clarified butter, and a little cayenne pepper, then pass each cutlet through the butter ; when you have filled the pan with about sixteen cutlets, (if for a corner dish that is sufficient,) cut a paper round and butter it, and put it over your cutlets, then put them either in your oven or on your hot-plate or stove ; be careful in turn- ing them, take them out of the saucepan or paper, to dry away the grease, have some good brown sauce ready ; after taking off the fat from what they were done in, put the remainder good into your sauce, adding a few drops of anchovy sauce, lemon juice, a little sugar, a glass of wine, then boil well for some time, dish your cutlets one on the other round, and either glaze them or pour the sauce over them. TO DRY SALMON. Open the fish, and remove the whole inside, including the roe. Scalp it, and then rub it with common salt ; hang it to drain from twenty- four to thirty hours. Mix well two ounces of good sugar, the same quantity of bay salt, and three ounces of saltpetre ; rub the mixture thoroughly into the salmon ; place it upon a dish, and suffer it to remain for forty- eight hours, and then rub it with common salt. Let it remain until the succeeding evening, it will then be ready to dry. Wipe it thorough- ly after drying ; spread it open with two sticks, and hang it in a chimney where a wood fire is burned. SALMON POTTED. Cut a handsome piece from the middle of the salmon ; remove the scales, and wipe it with a clean cloth. Rub into it some common salt thoroughly. Beat up some mace, cloves, and whole pepper, and season the salmon with it ; place it in a pan with a few bay leaves ; cover it with butter, and bake it until thoroughly done ; remove it from the gravy, letting it drain thoroughly, then place it in the pots. Clarify sufficient butter to cover all the pots after the salmon has been put into them : put it to cool. TO PICKLE SALMON. Scale, clean, split, and divide the salmon into handsome pieces ; place tbem in the bottom of a stewpan, with just sufficient water to cover them. Put into three quarts of water one pint of vinegar, a AND HOW TO CARVE. 57 dozen bay leaves, half that quantity of mace, a handful of salt, and a fourth part of an ounce of black pepper. When the salmon is sufficiently boiled remove it, drain it, and place it upon a cloth. Put in the kettle another layer of salmon, pour over it the liquor which you have prepared, and keep it until the salmon is done. Then re- move the fish, place it in a deep dish or pan, and cover it with the pickle, which, if not sufficiently acid, may receive more vinegar and salt, and be boiled forty minutes. Let the air be kept from the fish, and, if kept for any length of time, it will be found necessary to oc- casionally drain the liquor from the fish, and skim, and boll it. QUENELLES OR PUDDING. Use any salmon you may have left, pick it free from all bones and skin, put a crumb of a French roll, or some light crumbs of bread in half a pint of milk, a sprig of parsley, a small shalot, or onion, put it all to boil until dried up, stir it and keep it from burning, then put it to get cold ; pound the salmon well, then add boiled fat, take out the onion and parsley, and put about two ounces of butter with it ; pound all well, then rub it through a wire sieve ; when done, return it back into the mortar, and add, according to the quantity, two yolks of eggs and one whole egg, a little essence of anchovies, cayenne pepper, salt, and a dust of sugar. Have a stewpan of boiling water ready ; take out a piece and boil it to see if it is light, or does not drop to pieces ; have your small or large moulds ready, and well buttered ; six small ones are sufficient for a dish ; if for a corner, put buttered paper over each mould. To stew them, have a stewpan large enough to hold them, line the bottom with paper, and only put sufficient water to be half up the mould ; mind the cover fits close, and be sure it boils, then put them in ; the small ones will take about half an hour-; when done drain the grease weli from them, before dishing ; pour the sauce in the middle. TO BAKE SMELTS. Prepare as above, also strew forcemeat over them, bread crumbs, and moisten with clarified butter ; mix, in addition to the gravy a glass of Madeira, with a dash of anchovies ; this must be added be- fore the smelts are laid in. They will be done in ten minutes. TROUT. Scale, gut, clean, dry, and flour, then fry them in butter until they are rich clear brown ; fry some green parsley crisp, and make some plain melted butter, put in one tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and one glass of white wine ; garnish, when the trouts are dished, with the crisped parsley and lemon cut in slices ; the butter may be poured over the fish, but it is most advisable to send it in a butter tureen. 58 HOW TO COOK, TROUT STEWED. This is a pleasing and delicate dish when nicely stewed. It is dress- ed very much in the fashion of other small fish stewed, only that it requires perhaps more care in the different processes. First wash and clean the fish, wipe it perfectly dry, put into a stewpan two ounces of butter, dredge in flour as it melts, and add grated nutmeg, a little mace, and a little cayenne. Stew well, and when fluid and thoroughly mixed, lay in the fish, which having suffered to slightly brown, cover with a pint of veal gravy ; throw in a little salt, a small faggot of parsley, and a few rings of lemon-peel ; stew slowly forty minutes, then take out the fish, strain the gravy clear, and pour it over the fish. halibut's head. Put a pint of wine, a few anchovies, an onion stuck with cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and some pepper, into a stew-pan ; fill it near- ly with water, and stew it for an hour : then strain it, and put in the head of a halibut, stew it till tender ; when done enough, thicken the gravy with butter and flour, add a little fish-sauce, and serve it up with forcemeat-balls made of a part of the fish, pounded, and rolled up with crumbs of bread, thyme, marjoram, and nutmeg, bound to- gether with the yolk of an egg. If the fish has been stewed in plain water, a glass of wine should then be added to the sauce. TO boil perch. First wipe or wash off the slime, then scrape off the scales, which adheres rather tenaciously to this fish ; empty and clean the insides perfectly, take out the gills, cut off the fins, and lay the perch into equal parts of cold and of boiling water, salted as for mackerel : from eight to ten rainutss will boil them unless they are very large. Dish them on a napkin, garnish them with curled parsley, and serve melted butter with them. ORAB SALAD. Extract the fish from the shell, and place in the centre of the dish in which it is to be served, in the form of a pyramid ; arrange the salad round tastefully, and add salad mixture. This dish is not un- frequently garnished with the smallest claws of the fish. MEATS. ROASTING. In every case where meat is washed before roasting, it should be well dried before it is put down to the fire, which must be kept clear; AND HOW TO CARVE. 59 banked up to the height it is intended to keep it, and kept at that height until the meat is sufficiently cooked. Remember the regula- tion of gradually advancing the meat nearer to the fire while it is cooking ; baste with a little milk and water, or salt and water first, but as soon as the fat begins to fall from the meat, put down a clean dish, and then baste with the dripping as it falls ; the meat should not be sprinkled with salt until nearly cooked, or too much gravy will be produced. Preserve the dripping ; pour it from the dish into some boiling water, and leave it to cool. When cold it will be hard, white, and all the impurities will be deposited at the bottom. It oc- casionally happens that the joint cannot be sent to table as soon as cooked ; in such case, place it on a dish upon a fish-kettle of boiling water ; place over it a dishcover, and spread over all a cloth ; the meat will thus be Kept as hot as if placed before a fire, but will not be dried, nor will the gravy be evaporated. BOILING. The learned in the art of boiling recommend different times for the completion of the process, some allowing fifteen minutes to each pound, others twenty. Ail the best authorities agree in this, that the longer the boiling the more perfect the operation. When taken from the pot the meat must be wiped, some use a clean cloth, but the best way is to have a sponge previously dipped in warm water, and wrung dry, this is also more convenient. Be careful not to let the meat stand, but send it to table as quick as pos- sible, or it will darken and become hard. Boiled meat, as well as roast, cannot be served too hot. Hard water is improper to boil meat in, and, where soft water is to be procured, should not be thought of. It is now an established fact amoDg the best judges, that the meat should be put in cold water, and not in hot, unless for a speciaf pur- pose, as it renders it dark and hard; cooks should be careful how they manage the form of certain meat for the pot, by skewering or tying it, so as to make it equal in all parts ; for where one part is thick, and the other thin, the latter would be overdone before the thicker parts are acted upon by the boiling water. All meats are best cooked by boiling gently, as fast boiling spoils the meat and does it no quicker. Salted meats should be very slowly boiled — in fact it should scarcely simmer ; it is indispensible that the water should cover the meat, therefore th ! dimensions of the pot should be suited to the bulk of the joint. Large joints, as rumps and rounds of beef, should be boiled in a copper. It is less difficult to regulate the heat of a copper fire than that of a kitchen range. It is impossible to boil properly without skimming the pot. The instant the pot boils, it should be skimmed and followed up as the scum rises. $Q HOW TO COOK ; The cook must prepare her fire in dne time. When ready, it should be clear and bright, so clear from black coal and smoke that the chop or steak may come from the gridiron without blemish or taint of sulphur or smoke. The best fuel for a broil is composed of charcoal and coke, as little smoke is emitted from either, even on com- mencing the fire, and when well ignited, it is entirely free from it ; coke added to a brisk coal fire also burns bright, and is well suited for the operation, though with care a proper fire may be made of good sea coal. There is this amongst other disadvantages in cutting too thick a steak, the outside is likely to be scorched to horny hard- ness before the interior is half cooked ; hence, to say nothing of the misery of those who have not large mouths, the disappointed epicure must either wait until it is put again on the gridiron, or, instead of eating it rare, be constrained to eat it raw. No gridirons should be used but those with fluted bars, which, forming channels, the greater part of the fat which otherwise falls into the fire, and scorches the steak, is drawn off into a gutter at the bottom ; the gridiron should be thorougly heated, and the bars rubbed with beef or mutton suet previously to putting on the steak, to prevent its being marked by, or adhering to, the bars. A close eye should be kept on the steak, to watch the moment for turning it, which is repeatedly done during the process ; broiling tongs of convenient size should be used, with which, by a little practice, the steak may be turned with ease and des- patch ; the cook must have her dish thoroughly heated to receive the broil when done, and the cover hot to place upon it instantly. Even when she has accomplished her task, if the servant who is to take it to table loiters on the way, the steak will have lost its zest. A steak or chop should be briskly cooked, speedily conveyed to table, and served with despatch. HOW TO CHOOSE BEEF. True well-fed beef may be known by the texture and color ; the lean will exhibit an open grain of deep coral red, and the fat will ap- f>ear of a healthy, oily smoothness, rather inclining to white than yel- ow ; the suet firm and white. Yellow lat is a test of meat of an in- ferior quality. Heifer beef is but little inferior to ox beef; the lean is of a closer grain, the red paler, and the fat whiter. Cow beef may be detected by the same signs, save that the older the beast the tex- ture of the meat will appear closer, and the flesh coarser to the sight, as well as harder to the touch. TO ROAST BEEF. The primest parts are roasted, except the round, which should be boiled ; the ribs make the finest roasting joint. AND HOW TO CARVE. 61 Where a small quantity is required, it is better for the bones to be eut out, and the meat rolled ; this should be done by the butcher, who will not only cut cleaner, but skewer the parts into a fillet with more firmness and neatness than the cook, who is not expected to be as expert with the knife and the skewer as the butcher. The tops of the ribs are frequently cut oft into pieces of three or four pounds ; this piece though occasionally roasted, should be salted ; it then ap- proaches in flavor to the brisket. In roasting the ribs, or any piece of «eef, the precautions mention- ed respecting placing it too near the fire must be observed ; and where there is much fat, and it is desired to preserve it from being cooked before the lean, it may be covered with clean white paper skewered over it ; when it is nearly done the paper should be removed, a little flour dredged over it, and a rich frothy appearance will be obtained. The joint should be served up with potatoes and other Vegetables ; the dish should be garnished round the edge with horse- radish scraped into thin curls. This receipt will suffice for all the other roasting parts of beef. TO COOK THE INSIDE OF THE SIRLOIN. * Take out the inside of the sirloin in one piece, put it iuto a stew- pan, with sufficient good gravy to cover it ; season with mixed spice, pepper, salt, and cayenne, and a spoonful of walnut ketchup ; more of the latter may be added, if the quantity made should require it to flavor ; serve with pickled gherkins cut small. FILLET OF BEEF ROASTED. The fillet, which comes from the inside of the sirloin, may be lard* ed or roasted plain ; for high dinners it is larded. Baste with fresh butter. It must be a large fillet which takes longer than an hour and twenty minutes ; serve with tomato sauce, and garnish with horsera« dish, unless served with currant jelly, then serve as with venison or hare. A SALT ROUND OF BEEF. XJse the spice as for the fillet of beef, but salt as Usual for a round of beef. Let it lie for a week, frequently rubbing it ; boil it in & cloth ; send up carrots, and turnips, and suet dumplings, and a little gravy from what it was boiled in, adding a little consomme, or it will be too salt. Young cabbages in a dish, send Up. STEWED RUMP OF BEEF. Half roast the beef ; then place it in the stewpan, adding three pints or two quarts of water (according to the weight of the joint), two wine-glasses of vinegar, three of red wine (more if expense be 62 HOW TO COOK, not considered, a bottle not being too much) ; cider is sometimes used, but the meat may be stewed without it ; three spoonfuls of wal- nut ketchup, two or three blades of mace, a shalot, a dessert-spoonful of lemon pickle, cayenne pepper, and salt ; cover the stewpan close down, and stew gently for two hours, or three,.if the rump of beef is large ; take it up and place it in the dish in which it is to be served, keeping it hot in the manner previously prescribed ; remove the scum from the gravy in which it has been stewed, and strain it ; add half a pint of mushrooms, three table- spoonfuls of port wine, a spoonful of Harvey's sauce, thicken with flour and butter, pour over the beef, gar- nish with pickles, forcemeat balls, and horseradish. RUMP STEAK STEWED. Cut a steak about an inch thick, with a good bit of fat, fry it over a brisk fire, place it in a stewpan with the gravy, a little good stock, a little port wine, and some chopped mushrooms, and stew gently; when tender, put into the stewpan some good brown sauce ; shake it gently about ; then dish it, and put scraped or grated horse-radish on the top ; if for oysters or mushrooms, season plentifully with salt, cayenne pepper, and sugar. / RUMP STEAK BROILED. Cut your steak not so thick as for the former ; have ready a good clear fire, and get your gridiron quite hot ; then put on the steak at full length, frequently stirring it with your steak-tongs ; a few min* utes, according to taste, will do it; place it on your dish, rub a good slice of butter all over it, and now pepper and salt it. Serve with a horseradish on the top of it, and, frequently, sauces. BEEF STEAKS BROILED. Be particular that the fire is clear ; it is of no use to attempt to broil a steak over a dull, smoky, or flaring fire ; see that the gridiron is clean, and the bar3 rubbed with suet preparatory to laying on the steaks ; when the meat is browned, turn it ; do not be afraid of doing this often, as this is the best plan to preserve the gravy. When they are done, rub them over with a piece of fresh butter, pepper and salt them, sprinkle the shalot. or onion cut very small, and send them to table with oyster sauce, a dish of nicely-cooked greens, and well boil- ed potatoes. They are frequently and pleasantly garnished with scraped horseradish. STEWED BEKP STEAKS. Stew the steaks in three parts of a pint of water, to which has been added a bunch of sweet herbs, two blades of mace, an onion Btuck with cloves (say three) ; an anchovy, and a lump of butter AND HOW TO CARVE, 63 soaked in flour, pouring over a glass of sherry or Madeira. Stew with the pan covered down, until the steaks are tender, but not too much so ; then place them in a fryingpan with enough of fresh butter, hissing hot, to cover them ; fry them brown, pour ofF the fat, and in its place pour into the pan the gravy in which the steaks were stew- ed ; when the gravy is thoroughly heated, and is of a rich consistency, place the steaks in a hot dish, and pour the sauce over them. The steaks should be large, the finest from the rump, and have a due pro- portion of fat with them. BEEF KIDNEY, FRIED. Remove all the fat and the skin from the kidney, and cut it in slices moderately thin. Mix with a tea-spoonful of salt, grated nutmeg, and cayenne pepper. Sprinkle over them this seasoning, and also parsley, and eschalot chopped very fine. Fry them over a quick fire until brown on both sides, than pour into a good gravy a glass of Madeira, and when the slices of the kidney are browned, pour it into the pan gradually ; just as it boils throw in a spoonful of lemon juice, with a piece of butter the size of a nut. Have ready a dish, gar- nished with fried bread cut in dice, and pour the whole into it. " BEEF KIDNEYS — STEWED. Procure a couple of very fine beef kidneys, cut them in slices, and lay them iu a stewpan ; put in two ounces of butter, and four large onions cut into very thin slices ; add to them a sufficiency of pepper and salt to season well. Stew them about an hour ; add a cupfull of rich gravy to that extracted from the kidney. Stew five minutes, strain it, and thicken the gravy with flour and butter, give it a boil up. Serve with the gravy in the dish. BEEF HEART ROASTED. Wash thoroughly, stuff with forcemeat, send it to table as hot as it is possible with currant jelly sauce ; it will take about forty minutes roasting. ox TAILS. Have them properly jointed by the butcher, as it saves time, and experience enables him to do the task more neatly than the cook. They should be separated at each joint, until the tail is approached, and then two or three joints may be the length allowed. Three or four tails l may be cooked ; that, however, must be regulated according to the quantity required. We give the proportions for three tails. Cover them with water after laying them in the saucepan ; clear the scum as it rises ; and when it boils put in a little salt, half a tea-spoon- ful of white pepper, and half that quantity of cayenne, eight or ten cloves stuck in two small onions, two large or four small carrots, and 64 Now To cook, a good sized bunch of parsley. Let it boil very gently, until the meat is tender, which will take three hours ; then strain the gravy from the meat, thicken it, and serve it up with the tails in a tureen. When the gravy has been thickened, the vegetables may be returned to it or not, according to taste, and it may be sent to table poured over the tails, or in a separate tureen. Ox-tails are sometimes broiled, but as in any mode of dressing them they require much cooking, they must first be stewed. They are not divided in this mode of dressing, but boiled for a quarter of an hour whole, and stewed in sufficient gravy to cover them until tender, then coated with yolk of egg, or fresh butter powdered with bread crumbs, and broiled upon a gridiron, served immediately they are browned. BRISISET OF BEEF STEWED. Take any quantity of brisket of beef required, say eight or ten pounds, which cover with water, and stew till tender ; bone the beef, and skim off the fat, strain the gravy, add a glass of port wine, and flavor with spice tied in a bag. Have boiled vegetables ready ; cut them into squares, aud garnish the beef from the gravy round it, and BUMP OF BEEF. Cut the beef in pieces, half boil them, put them Into some beef broth or thin stock, unseasoned, and boil ; when half done, stir some butter and flour moistened with broth in a stewpanover the fire until brown ; put the beef into the pan with a dozen onions previously parboiled, a glass of sherry, a bay leaf, a bunch of sweet herbs, par* sley, pepper, and salt ; stew till the beef and onions are quite done, then skim clean, cut an anchovy small, and put it witn capers into the sauce ; place the beef in the centre of the dish, and garnish with the onions round it. TO FRICASSEE COLD ROAST BEEF. Cut the beef into slices, (which would be very thin,) and put it with some strong broth into a stewpan ; add parsley chopped gmall, an onion scored, aud a piece of butter ; simmer fifteen minutes, then add a glass of port wine, a tea-spoonful of pyroligenous acid, and the yolk of a couple of eggs ; mix well, stew quickly, pot the dish, rub it with a shalot, pour fricassee into it and serve. BEEF AND SAtfER ERATjT. Put about eight pounds of beef into cold water. When it comes to a boil, let it boil very fast for eight or ten minutes, not longer. Take it in a stewpan, covering it completely over with sauer kraut, AND BOW TO CABv*2. 65' Pout 1 in a pint of thin gravy. Stew four hours, and serve with the gravy in a tureen or deep dish. A BEEF STEW. Take two or three pounds of the rump of beef, cut away all the fat and skin, and cut it into pieces about two or three inches square, put it into a stewpan, and pour on to it a quart of broth j then let it boil, and sprinkle in a little salt and pepper to taste '. when it has boiled very gently, or simmered two hours, shred finely a large lemon, adding it to the gravy, and in twenty minutes pour in a flavoring' composed of two table-spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, the juice of the lemon (the rind of which has been sliced into the gravy), a spoonful of flour, and a little ketchup ; add at pleasure two glasses of Madeira, or one of sherry or port, a quarter of an hour after the flavoring, and serve. BEEF HASHED. Take the bones of the joint to be hashed ; and break them small, then stew them in a very little water, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and a few onions ; roll a lump of butter in flour, brown it in a Stew- pan, pour the gravy to it, and add the meat to be hashed ; two small onions in thin slices, a carrot also, and a little parsley shred finely; stew gently until the meat is hot through, and serve. BEEF TONGUE, TO CURE. Throw a handful of salt over the tongue, seeing that it is sprink * led on both sides, and let it remain to drain until the following day ; make a pickle of a table-spoonful of common salt, half that quanti- ty of saltpetre, and the same quantity of coarse sugar as of salt ? rub this mixture well into the tongue, every day for a week ; it will then be found necessary to add another table-spoonful of salt ; in four more days the tongue will be cured sufficiently. Some persons do not rub the pickle into the tongue, but let it ab- sorb it, merely turning it daily ; this method will be found to occupy a month or five weeks before it is cured.' When the tongue is to be dried, affix a paper to it with a date ; smoke over a wood fire four day3, unless wrapped in paper, and then as many weeks will be re- quired. TO DRESS BEEF TONGUES. First boil the tongue tender— it will take five hours ; always dress them as they come out of the pickle, unless they have been very long there, then they may be soaked three or four hours in cold water ; or if they have been smoked, and hung long, they should be softened by lying in water five or six hours ; they should be brought to a boil 66 HOW TO COOK, gently, and then simmer until tender ; when they have been on the fire about two hours, and the scum removed as it rises, throw in a bunch of sweet herbs of a tolerable size, to improve the flavor of the tongue. TO STEW A TONGUE. Cut away the root of the tongue, but leave the fat underneath, and salt for seven days, as in receipt to cure beef tongue. Put it in- to a saucepan, and boil gently until tender, when it will easily peel ; after peeling, put it into a stewpan, and cover it with rich gravy, in- to which put a spoonful of mushroom ketchup, one of soy, and half a spoon fnl of cayenne pepper. Stew in the gravy morels, truffles, and mushrooms, and serve with them in the gravy. BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. Sprinkle some slices of cold boiled beef with pepper, fry them with a bit of butter to a light brown ; boil a cabbage, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it small, then take the beef out of the fryingpan and lay the cabbage in it, sprinkling a little salt and pepper over it ; keep the pan moving over the fire for a few minutes ; lay the cabbage in the middle of the dish, and the beef around it. BEEF SAUSAGES. To three pounds of beef, very lean, put one pound and a half of suet, and chop very finely ; season with sage in powder, allspice, pep- per, and salt ; have skins thoroughly cleaned and force the meat in- to them. BEEP BROTH. Take a leg of beef, wash it clean, crack the bone in two or three parts, put it into a pot with a gallon of water, and skim it well ; then put two or three blades of mace into a bundle of parsley, and a crust of bread, and let it boil till the beef is quite tender ; toast some bread, cut it into dice, put them into a tureen, lay in the meat, and pour the soup over it. MARROW BONES. They must be sawn into convenient sizes ; cover the ends with a little douol). made of flour and water, and tie them in a floured cloth ; boil them an hour and a half, and serve on a napkin with dry toast. Take two pounds of fresh tripe, cleaned and dressed by the tripe- dresser, cut away the coarsest fat, and boil it for twenty minutes to AND HOW TO CARVE, 67 half an hour, in equal parts of milk and water. Boil in the same water which boils the tripe four large onions ; the onions should be put on the fire at least half an hour before the tripe is put in the stewpan, and then made into a rich onion sauce, which serve with the tripe. Tripe is also cleaned, dried, cut into pieces, and fried in butter and served with melted butter. Another method of dressing tripes is by cutting it into slices ; three eggs are beaten up with minced parsley, sweet herbs, onions, chopped exceedingly fine, and mushrooms. The tripe is dipped into this mix- ture, and fried in boiling lard. Tripe may also be cut into collops, covered with a mixture of parsley, onions, and mushrooms, minced exceedingly fine, and fried in clarified or fresh butter. Serve mushroom sauce with it. Tripe can be be stewed in gravy, in which put parsley, onions, and mushrooms, or in lieu of the latter, mushroom ketchup. Thicken the gravy with flour and butter. When the tripe is tender, it will be done. A lemon may be sent to table with it. POTTED BEEF. To a pound of common salt, put a quarter of an ounce of salt- petre, and two ounces of coarse sugar. Rub three ounces of lean beef with this, and let it remain in the brine fifty hours. Drain and dry it, pepper it well with black pepper, and put it into a pan ; cut half a pound of butter in slices, and lay round it ; lay a paste crust over it, and bake it very slowly four hours and a half. Let it get cold, and then cut off the meat, being careful to separate the stringy pieces from it ; pound it in a mortar, working up with it four ounces of fresh butter, and some of the gravy from the meat when baked, seasoned with ground allspice, a little mace, and pepper. When the meat has been combined with the butter and gravy, until it is worked into an even paste, put it into jars, and cover it with clarified butter. If it is purposed to keep it long, cover it with bladder skin. The beef may be potted without in the first instance being salted, but if it is done, it should have salt worked up with it, and be soon eaten after potting. Some persons make their potted beef of meat that has been previously cooked, but the above will be found to be the best receipt. cow HEEL. Having been thoroughly washed, scalded, and cleaned, cut them into pieces about two inches long, and one wide; dip them into yolk of egg, cover them with fine bread crumbs mixed with parsley, minced, cayenne pepper, and salt ; fry them in boiling butter. ROW TO COOK, BEEF HAMS, Prepare, trim, and shape a leg of beef like a ham, then put on a dish, and baste with the'following pickle morning and evening for a month, then remove from the pickle, drain, roll in bran, and smoke it. Cover with a piece of canvas, give it a coat of lime-wash, and hang in a dry place until wanted. For a piece of meat weighing fourteen pounds, mix a pound of salt, the same of coarse brown sugar, au ounce of saltpetre, the same of bay salt, half an ounce of coarse black pepper, and three ounces of treacle, adding sufficient beer to form into a thick pickle. YEAL The failing of this meat is its tendency to turn ; should it shor/ any symptoms of doing this, put it into scalding water, and let it boil for seven or eight minutes, with some pieces of charcoal affixed, plunge it into cold water immediately after taking it out of the pot, and put into the coldest place you have at command ; the skirt from the breast, and the pipe from the loin, should always be removed in hot weather. HOW TO CHOOSE VEAL. When you observe the kidney well surrounded with fat, you may be sure the meat is of a good quality. The whitest is not the best Veal ; but the flesh of the bull-calf is of a brighter color than that of the cow-calf. The fillet of the latter is generally preferred, on ac- count of the udder. There is a Vein in the shoulder very perceptible ; and its color indicates the freshness of the meat ; if a bright red or blue, it is recently killed ; if any green or yellow spots are visible, it is stale. The suet will be flabby, and the kidney will smell. VEAL, TOE FILLET. The fillet derives much of its pleasant flavor from being stuffed* Yeal, in itself, being nearly tasteless, the stuffing should be placed in the hollow place from whence the bone is extracted, and the joint should be roasted a beautiful brown ; it should be cooked gradually, as the meat being solid, will require to be thoroughly done through without burning the outside ; like pork, it is sufficiently indigestible, without being sent to table and eaten half cooked 5 a dish of boiled bacon or ham should accompany it to table, with the addition of a lemon. In roasting veal, eare must be taken that it if? not at first placed AND HOW TO CARVE. 69 too near the fire ; the fat of a loin, one of the most delicate joints of veal, should be covered with greased paper ; a fillet also, should have on the caul until nearly done enough. The shoulder should be tho- roughly boiled ; when nearly done, dredge with flour, and produce a fine froth. FILLET OF VEAL BOILED. Bind it round with tape, put it in a floured cloth, and in cold water ; boil very gently two hours and a half, or, if simmered, which is perhaps the better way, four hours will be necessary. It may be sent to table in bechemel, or with oyster sauce. Care should be taken to keep it as white as possible. KNUCKLE OF VEAL BOILED. Put sufficient water over it to cover it, let it boil gently, and when it reaches a boil, as much salt as would fill a dessert-spoon may be thrown in ; keep it well skimmed, and boil until tender, then serve with parsley and butter, and a salted cheek. Allow twenty minutes to each pound. Three quarters of a pound of rice may be boiled with it, or green peas, or cucumbers ; turnip and small spring onions may be put in, allowing them so much time from the cooking of the veal as they may require. KNUCKLE OF VEAL STEWED. Place your knuckle of veal in a stewpan, if the knuckle is a very large one, it may be divided into two or three pieces for the sake of convenience ; put in the pan with it, a few blades of mace, a little thyme, an onion, some whole pepper, a burnt crust of bread, and co- ver with three to four pints of water, cover down close, and boil ; when it has boiled, place it by the side of the fire, and let it simmer for at least two hours ; keep it hot while you strain its liquor, then pour the gravy over it, and send it to table with a lemon garnish. ANOTHER WAY. Let the knuckle boil slowly in sufficient water till it is tender ; make a sauce of butter and flour, with parsley in it chopped fine, then slice a lemon, and garnish the dish with it. NECK OF VEAL. May be boiled or roasted — the latter only, if it be the best end, and sent to table garnished nicely with vegetables; it may also be broiled in chops, but it is best in a pie ; it is sometimes larded and stewed as follows : NECK OF VEAL STEWED. Lard it with square pieces of ham or bacon, which have been pre- tO HOW TO COOK. viously rubbed in a preparation of shalots, spices, pepper, and salt ; place it in the stewpan with about three pints of white stock, adding a bay or laurel leaf, and a couple of onions ; also add a dessert-spoon- ful of brandy or whiskey, and stew till tender, then dish the meat, strain the gravy, pour it over the joint, and serve. NEOK OF VEAL BRAISED. This is done much in the same manner as the neck of veal stewed ; it is larded with bacon, rolled in chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, placed with the scrag in a tosser, in which place lean bacon, celery, carrots, one onion, a glass of sherry, or Maderia, with suffici- ent water to cover it all ; stew over a quick fire until it is sufficiently tender, remove the veal, and strain the gravy, place the veal in a stewpan, in which some butter and flour has been browned, letting the bones be uppermost ; when the veal is nicely colored it is enough; boil as much of the liquor as may be required, skim it clean, squeeze a lemon into it, pour it over the meat, and serve. VEAL CUTLETS. The cutlet should be cut as handsomely as possible, and about three quarters of an inch in thickness ; before cooking, they should be well beaten with the blade of a chopper, if a proper beater be not at hand ; then fry them a light brown, and send them up to ta- ble garnished with parsley, and rolls of thin-sliced, nicely fried ba- con ; they are with advantage coated, previous to cooking, with the yolk of an egg, and dredged with bread crumbs. ANOTHER WAY. Procure your cutlets cut as in last receipt, coat them with the yolk of eggs well beaten, powdered bread crumbs, sweet herbs, grated lemon peel, and nutmeg ; put some fresh butter in the pan, and when boiling, put in your cutlets ; now make some good gravy ; when the cutlets are cooked, take them out, and keep them before the fire to keep hot, dredge into the pan a little flour, put in a piece of butter, a little white stock, juice of lemon to taste, season with pepper and salt, adding mushroom ketchup, boil quickly until a light brown, then pour it over the cutlets, and serve, the cutlets being laid in a circle round the dish, and the gravy in the centre. fEAL CUTLETS CURRIED. The cutlets may be prepared as for collops, by cutting them into shape, dipping them into the yolk of eggs, and seasoning them with about four table-spoonfuls of fine bread crumbs, two spoonfuls of cur- ry powder, and one of salt ; fry them in fresh butter; serve with cur- ry sauce, which may be made with equal parts of curry powder, flour, AND HOW TO CARVE. u and butter, worked well together into a paste ; put it into the pan from which the cutlets have been removed, moisten with a cupful ot water, in which cayenne and salt have been stirred ; let it thicken, and serve very hot. VEAL CUTLETS, CRUMBED OR PLAIN. If you have not got the leg of veal or the cutlet-piece I before named, get a thick slice of veal, and cut fourteen good sized cutlets, but not too thin ; flatten each, and trim them a good shape, wet your beater in cold water to keep the veal from sticking,) if for plain cut- lets, flour them and dry them), then again have ready your saucepan, or fryingpan, quite hot, with a good bit of lard or butter : in this put your cutlets, and fry a nice light brown ; pepper and salt them ; if to be bread-crumbed, trim them as before ; have ready a little clarified butter, some chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt, all mixed together with the yolk of two eggs well beaten ; have ready some bread crumbs, and amongst them a spoonful of well-mixed flour ; dip each cutlet into this omelet, and thin bread-crumb them, patting them with your knife to keep each the proper shape, making the bread crumbs stick to the cutlet : melt some lard in your saucepan and place your cutlets in it ready to fry a nice brown. COLLOPS OP VEAL. If you have it, a leg of veal ; if not, get a cutlet, and cut it into thin pieces, and beat very thin, saute them off, and when all done, trim them round the size of a crown piece, pepper, and salt them, place them in a stew pan with some cool sauce if for brown, and if for white, bechemel sauce ; add some forcemeat balls, some stewed mushrooms, and some whole-dressed truffles, season with pepper, salt, sugar, and lemon : dish the collops round as you would cutlets, put- ting the mushrooms, balls, and truffles in the middle. VEAL CHOPS LARDED, Take from the best end of the neck of veal, three thick chops with a bone to each, trimmed neatly, either larded or not ; but you will braise as the former, and glaze them. TENDONS OP VEAL, This is from a breast of veal. Turn up the breast, and with a sharp knife cut off the chine bone all along, taking care you do not take any of the gristle with the bone ; when you have cut off this bone, place your knife under the gristle, and follow it all along until you have raised it up ; then cut off the tendons by keeping close to the rib bones; when you have got it out twelve or fourteen tendons endways, keeping your knife slanting, that each may be the size of a 72 HOW TO COOK, email pattie round, but not too thin j then put them on in cold water to scald, and then put them in cold again ; prepare a stewpan, lined with fat bacon or ham, trim each tendon round, throw the turnip in your braise, cover them with second stock and some of the skimmiDg, and let them stew gently for six or seven hours ; be careful in taking them up, and place them separately upon a drying seive ; glaze them two or three times, and dish them on border. They should be so ten- der that you might suck them through a quill. GALANTINE VEAL. Take a large breast of veal ; take off the chine bone,then take out the gristle called tendons, and all the rib bones ; flatten it well, have ready some good forcemeat or sausage meat, and spread it all over with your forcemeat : then make a line of green gherkins, a line of red capsicums, a line of fat ham or bacon, some hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and a line of truffles ; if you have any boiled calves' feet left from jelly stock, sprinkle it in with pieces of breast of fowl ; sprinkle pepper and salt all over it, then roll it up tightly, and likewise do so in a cloth ; tie it up tight ; stew it for two hours or more ; take it up, press it flat, and let it lie until quite cold : then take off the cloth. It will make an excellent cold dish. POTTED VEAL. This may be potted as beef, or thus : — Pound cold veal in a mor- tar, and work up with it in powder, mace, and salt, the leanest part of tongue or ham, and shred very finely ; place in a jar or pot a layer of the pounded veal, and upon that a layer of the tongue, and contin- ue alternately until the pot is full, seeing that every laye*r is well pres- sed down ; pour over the top melted clarified butter. If it is desired, aud which is frequently done, to marble the veal, cut the tongue or ham in small dice instead of shredding it ; care must be taken that they do not touch each other, or the effect is destroyed. VEAL HARICOED. Bone the best end of the neck, put it in a stewpan with three pints of a rich brown gravy (let there be enough to cover it), and sew it ; while this is proceeding, stew four good-sized cucumbers, pared and sliced, with a pint of peas, and a couple of cabbage-lettuces, cut in quarters, in some broth ; when sufficiently stewed, and the veal is nearly done, add them to it ; simmer ten minutes, and serve with forcemeat balls. MINCED VEAL. Cut the meat intended to be minced, (which may be of any cold joint of veal), into very small pieces, shred lemon-peel very fine, gra- AND HOW TO CARVE. 73 ted nutmeg, add salt and half a dozen table-spoonfuls of white stock, or, if considered preferable, milk : let these simmer slowly without boiling ; when nearly done add butter rubbed in fiour, and when it is dressed, round the dish, lay diamonds of toasted bread, each bearing a thin half slice of lemon ; strew fried bread crumbs lightly over the veal, garnish with thin slices of boiled bacon in rolls. GRENADINS OF VEAL. Is the last piece left with the veins ; after cutting out the frican- deau, the collop which you will see is round, and the cutlet-piece, then this solid round piece, which you will cut in half, and trim # it as you did the former, keeping them either round or oval ; lard them and braise tham the same as a fricandeau, only less time. GRENADINS FROM A NECK OF VEAL. About five bones from the best end of the neck ; cut out the fillet close to the bones, trim it free from skin and sinews ; flatten it with your beater, and trim it nicely. EMINCEES. Are made from dressed meat cut into very small dice ; put fried or toasted bread sippets round the dish ; a mashed potatoe or rice rim is the neatest way for this dish to be sent to table. BREAST OF VEAL STEWED. Put it into the stewpan with a little white stock, add a glass of sherry, a few mushrooms, arbunch of sweet herbs, three onions, pep- per, and salt Stew till tender ; strain the gravy, and send to table garnished with force meat balls. BREAST OF VEAL BOILED. Put itjnto plenty of cold water, and let it come to a boil, clearing the scum as often as it rises ; when it boils, add a bunch of parsley, a few blades of mace, a small bunch of sweet herbs, twenty or thir- ty white peppers, and let it stew an hour and a quarter, then send to table with a nice piece of bacon, and parsley and butter. BREAST OF VEAL RAGOUT. Divide the breast lengthways in two, cutting each piece into por- tions of a reasonable size ; then put them into a pan with^ boiling butter, and fry a clear brown ; lay the pieces in a stewpan with suffi- cient veal broth to cover them, throw in a small faggot of sweet herbs and parsley, two onions, one large blade of mace, half a desert- spoonful of allspice, and the peel of a lemon ; season with pepper and salt, cover close, and stew an hour and a half, or longer if the 74 HOW TO COOK, meat requires it ; then take it off and strain the gravy from the fat keeping the veal closely covered ; in a small stewpan put a little but- ter and flour, pour in the strained gravy gradually, let it come to a boil, remove any scum that may rise, pour in a glass of sherry or Madeira, two table-spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon ; boil it up, place the veal in a deep hot dish, pour the gravy over it, and serve. BREAST OF VEAL — FORCED. After taking out the tendons and all the rib bones, flatten and trim the veal ; spread it all over with forcemeat, and sprinkle over it, if you have got it, a little chopped truffle or mushrooms, and a little pepper and salt : then roll it tightly up and tie it ; after which put it into a cloth and stew it for several hours, then take it up, and take off the cloth and strings, dry it and glaze it, and put some good sauce. SHOULDER OF VEAL. Eemove the knuckle, and roast what remains, as the fillet ; it may or may not be stuffed ; if not stuffed, serve with oyster or mushroom sauce ; if stuffed, with melted butter. SHOULDER OF VEAL BONED AND STEWED. Bone the shoulder, and lay in the orifice a veal forcemeat ; roll and bind the shoulder ; roast it an hour, then put it into a stewpan with good white or brown gravy, and stew four or five hours, regulating the time to the size of the joint ; when it is done, strain the gravy to clear it of fat, and serve with forcemeat balls. LOIN OF VEAL. Divide the lion, roast the kidney, and place under the fat a toast, and serve swimming in melted butter. The chump end must be stuff- ed with the same stuffing as the fillet, and served with the same sauce ; those who object to putting the stuffing in the joint, may send it to table with balls of stuffing in the dish. LOIN OF VEAL BOILED. Take a loin about eight pounds, skewer down the flap without disturbing the kidney, put the loin into a kettle with enough cold water to cover it, let it come gradually to a boil (it cannot boil too slowly), continue for two hours and a quarter, but it must boil ; re- move the scum as it rises, send it to table in bechemel, or with pars- ley and melted butter. KNUCKLE OF VEAL. Get a knuckle of a log of veal, saw it in three parts, but not to AND HOW TO CARVE. 75 separate it, scald it, and put it for a few minutes in cold water, then place it in a stewpan with some good seasoned stock, an onion or two, a faggot of herbs, a few sprigs of parsley, a carrot, a turnip, and a head of celery, a blade of mace, a slice of raw ham, fat and lean ; stew it for several hours, until the gristle is soft, then take out the veal, and cover it over to keep it white ; strain the liquor, wash a pound of rice and boil it in this liquor, add half a pint of cream or milk ; when the rice is done, put the veal again into it to make hot ; dish the veal carefully, and season the rice with pepper and salt, and pour over the veal ; if with parsley and butter instead of water, use the stock from it, and chop fine some boiled parsley and mix into it. calf's feet. They should be very clean, boil them three hours, or until they are tender, then serve them with parsley and butter. calf's heart. Stuffed and roasted precisely as beef heart. calf's kidney. May be dressed as mutton or beef kidney, or mince it with some of the fat, add cayenne, white pepper, aud salt, cover it with bread crumbs and with yolk of egg, make it up into balls, and fry in boil- ing fresh butter, drain them upon a sieve, and serve them upon fried parsley. calf's head for grill. When the head is boiled sufficiently, draw out all the bones, and put it to cool, and then cut it (if not required whole,) into square long pieces ; egg and bread-crumb them as you would cutlets, only add some chopped sweet herbs, as well as parsley ; put it in your oven to brown. calf's head. Let the head be thoroughly cleaned, the brain and tongue be taken out, and boil it in a cloth to keep it white (it is as well to soak the head for two or three hours previously to boiling, it helps to improve the color); wash, soak, and blanch the brains, then boil them, scald some sage, chop it fine, add pepper and salt, and a little milk, mix it with the brains ; the tongue, which should be soaked in salt and water for twenty-four hours, should be boiled, peeled, and served on a separate dish. The head should boil until tender, and if intended to be sent plainly to table should be served as taken up, with- melted butter and parsley ; if otherwise, when the head is boiled sufficiently tender, take it up, spread over a coat of the yolk of egg well beaten up, powder with bread crumbs, and brown before the fire in a Dutch or American oven. 76 HOW TO COOK, calf's head, baked. Butter the head, and powder it with a seasoning composed of very fine bread crumbs, a few sweet herbs and sage, chopped very fine, cayenne, white pepper, and salt. Divide the brains into several pieces, not too small, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and lay them in the dish with the head. Stick a quantity of small pieces of but- ter over the head and in the eyes, throw crumbs over all, pour in three parts of the dish full of water, and bake in a fast oven two hours. TO HASH CALF'S HEAD. If this dish is to be made of the remains of a head already cooked, there is no necessity to reboil it before it is placed in the stewpau with the other ingredients ; if it is made with one as yet uncooked, soak it thoroughly for two hours, parboil it, cut the meat in slices about one inch thick and three inches long, or smaller, if preferred ; brown an onion sliced in flour and butter iu a stew or sautepan, add to the meat as much rich gravy as the quantity of meat will permit, season with pepper, salt, and cayenne ; let it boil, then skim clean, and simmer until the meat is quite tender ; a few minutes before you serve throw in parsley in fine shreds and some finely-chopped sweet herbs ; squeeze a little lemon in, and garnish with forcemeat balls, or thin slices of broiled ham rolled. If expense is not an object you may add moreals and truffles in the browning. calf's ears. Soald the hair from the ears, and clean them thoroughly ; boil them until they are tender in veal gravy, and then blanch them in cold spring water. Serve them in chervil sauce, or in the gravy, thickened and seasoned, in which they were cooked. A sauce may be made of melted butter and mashed chervil, then strained through a seive, and white sauce added. White sauce is sometimes sent up alone with the ears ; in that case it should be flavored with mush- room powder. calf's ears, stuffed. Prepare as above, and make a stuffing of calves' liver, ham grated, fat bacon, bread steeped in cream, sweet herbs, a little mace, a little salt, and bind it with an egg unbeaten. Stuff the ears with it. The ears should be cut very close to the head, and the gristly part suf- ficiently smooth to enable the ears to stand upright when served. Bub the ears over with egg, and fry them a delicate brown. Serve with brown gravy. calf's brains. Wa6h them, remove the skin and scald them. Dry them well, fry AND HOW TO CARVE. ft them in butter, and serve with mushroom sauce. Or, when cleaned and scalded, chop them finely, simmer them with mushrooms, onions parsley sage, and white sauce. Season highly and serve, with fried parsley and fried sippets. calf's liver. Lay the liver in vinegar for twelve hours, it will render it firm ; then dip it in cold spring water and wipe it dry, cut it in even slices, sprinkle sweet herbs, crumbled finely, over it, and add pepper and salt, dredge with flour, and fry in boiling lard or butter, the last is prefer- able ; remove the liver when fried a nice brown, pour away a portion of the fat, and pour in a cupful of water with a lump of butter well rolled in flour, in which a spoonful of vinegar and cayenne or lemon juice has been stirred, boil it up, keeping it stirred all the while, and serve the liver up in it ; thin slices of hot fried bacon should be sent to table with it. PRICANDEAU OP VEAL. Cut this from a large leg of veal ; placing the bone from you, you bring the meat in front of you and you will see small veins running in different directions ; put your knife in the one which is largest, following it all round, then take that piece off, lay it upon your dres- ser, clean off* the skin, keeping the meat rather high in the middle ; shave it very smooth, lay the end of your rubber upon it, and with your beater beat it well ; take off your cloth and turn it again : keep- ing it the shape of the veal bone, turn it over flat on a plate, cut off any skin or pipe, then lard it with fat bacon : if for a Jews family, lard it with smoked beef fat, to be had from their own butcher's, or truffles ; when it is larded put on a stewpan of cold water, place your veal in it, keeping the bacon downwards, or otherwise the acum will settle on the top: skim it, and when it simmers, put your stewpan un- der the top, and let it dribble gently upon it for five minutes, then turn it over and take it up ; then line a stewpan with fat bacon or ham cut in slices, a carrot, turnip, and onions, a celery, a faggot of sweet herbs, put your fricandeau on a drainer in your stewpan, cover the top with thin slices of bacon, half cover it with some second stock, place it on a slow fire to stew gently, keeping a little all the time on the top ; it will take about three hours, for it should be as tender as to be helped with a spoon ; when done, glaze it several times. VEAL, CURRIED. Cut the veal to be curried in small pieces — any part of veal, cooked or uncooked, that is palatable, will serve. Put in a stewpan six oun- ces of fresh butter, add to it half a pint of good white stock and one t8 HOW TO COOK, table-spoonful of curry powder, put to this the veal to be curried, cover down close, simmer for two hours, squeeze a quarter of a lemon into it, aud serve with a dish of boiled rice. MUTTON. This is a delicate and favorite meat ; it is susceptible of many modes of cooking, and should always be served very hot, and with very hot plates, except of course in cases where it may be sent to table as a cold dish. It is a meat which requires care in the cooking, which it will amply repay. The roasting parts are the better for hanging some time, especially the haunch or saddle, but not for boil- ing, as the color is apt to be injured. HOW TO CHOOSE MUTTON. The best is of a fine grain, a bright color, the fat firm and white. It is better for being full grown. The meat of the ewe is not so bright, while the grain is closer. The ram mutton may be known by the redness of the flesh, and the sponginess of the fat. HAUNCH OF MUTTON. The haunch should be hung as long as possible without being taint- ed ; it should be washed with vinegar every day while hanging, and dried thoroughly after each washing ; if the weather be muggy, rub- bing with sugar will prevent its turning sour ; if warm weather, pep- per and ground ginger rubbed over it will keep off the flies. When ready for roasting, paper the fat, and commence some dis- tance from the fire ; baste with milk and water first, and then when the fat begins dripping, change the dish, and baste with its own drip- ping ; half an hour previous to its being done, remove the paper from the fat, place it closer to the fire, baste well, and serve with currant jelly. SADDLE OF MUTTON. This joint like the haunch, gains much of its flavor from hanging for some time ; the skin should be taken off, but skewered on again until within rather more than a quarter of an hour of its being done, then let it be taken off, dredge the saddle with flour, and baste well. The kidneys may be removed or remain at pleasure, but the fat which is found within the saddle should be taken away previous to cooking. AND HOW TO CARVE. 19 LEG OF MUTTON ROASTED. Like the haunch and saddle, should be hung before cooking, slow- ly roasted and served with onion sauce or currant jelly. ANOTHER METHOD. Put the leg into an iron saucepan, with enough cold water to cover it, and let it come to a boil gently ; or boil it by simmering only ; have the spit or jack ready, and take it from the hot water and put it to the fire instantly, it will take from an hour and a half if a large joint. ROAST LEG OP MUTTON BONED AND STUFFED. The principal skill required in preparing this dish, is the boning ; this must be done with a very sharp knife, commencing on the under- side of the joint, and passing the knife under the skin until exactly over the bone, then cut- down to it, and pass the knife round close to the bone right up to the socket, then remove the large bone of the thickest end of the leg, seeing the meat is clear of the bone ; you may then draw out the remaining bones easily. Put in the orifice a high- ly-seasoned forcemeat, fasten the knuckle end tightly over, replace the bone at the base of the joint, and sew it in ; roast it in a cradle spit or on a jack, if the latter, let the knuckle end be downwards, as it is less likely to sufier the forcemeat to drop out. It must be well basted, and should be sent to table with a good gravy. LEG OF MUTTON BOILED. Should be first soaked for an hour and a half in salt and water, care being taken tfiat the water be not too salt, then wiped and boiled in a floured cloth ; the time necessary for boiling will depend upon the weight : two hours or two hours and a half should be about the time ; it should be served with mashed turnips, potatoes, greens and caper sauce, or brown cucumber, or oyster sauce. TO DRESS MUTTON HAMS Soak the ham for five or six hours in cold spring water, unless it has only recently been cured, then one hour will suffice : put it into cold water, boil gently ; it will be done in two hours and a half. It is eaten cold. MUTTON KIDNEYS BROILED. Skin and split, without parting asunder ; skewer them through the outer edge and keep them flat ; lay the opened sides first to the fire, which should be clear and brisk : in four minutes turn them, sprinkle with salt and cayenne, and when done, which will be in three minutes afterwards, take them from the fire, put a piece of butter in- 80 side them, squeeze some lemon juice over them, and serve as hot as LAMB. HOW TO CHOOSE LAMB. In the fore-quarter, the vein in the neck being any other colour than blue betrays it to be stale. In the hind-quarter, try the kidney with your nose ; the faintness of its smell will prove it to be stale. FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. This is the favourite, and indeed the best joint. Do not put it too near the fire at first, and when it gets heated baste it well ; the fire should be quick, clear, but not fierce. The usual weight of a fore- quarter is between nine and eleven pounds, which will take two hours cooking ; when it is done, separate the shoulder from the ribs, but before it is quite taken off, lay under a large lump of butter, squeeze a lemon, and season with pepper and salt : let it remain long enough to melt the butter, then remove the shoulder, and lay it on another dish. STEAKS FROM A LOIN OF MUTTON Are done in the same way, only trimming some of the fat off, and cut thick, and stew instead of frying them. MUTTON STEAKS. The steaks are cut from the thick or fillet end of a leg of mutton, and dressed as rump-steaks. MUTTON CHOPS BROILED. Cut them from the best end of the loin, trim them nicely, removing fat or skin, leaving only enough of the for-mer to make them palata- ble ; let the fire be very clear before placing the chops on the gridiron, turn them frequently, taking care that the fork is not put into the lean part of the chop ; season them with pepper and salt, spread fresh but- ter over each chop when nearly done, and send them to table on very hot plates. AND HOW TO CARVE. 81 MUTTON CHOPS FRIED. The fat in which the chops are to be fried should be boiling when the chops are put into it. They should be pared of fat and well trimmed before cooking, turned frequently, and when nicely browned they will be done ; of course if they are very thick, judgment must be exercised respecting the length of time they will occupy in cooking. CHOPS AS BEEF STEAKS. Cut thick from a leg of mutton, and rub each steak with a shalot ; broil over a quick fire ; rub your dish with a shalot ; when on the dish pepper and salt them ; send them up quite hot. MUTTON CUTLETS. Loin chops make the best cutlets. Take off the vertebra? or thick- est end of each bone, and about an inch off the top of the bone ; put the chops into a stewpan in which has been previously melted a little butter seasoned with salt ; stew for a short time, but not until they are brown, as that appearance is accomplished in another man- ner. Chop some parsley very fine, add a little thyme, mix it with sufficient yolk of egg to coat the chops, which will have been suffered to cool before this addition to them ; then powder them with bread crumbs, over which a pinch of cayenne pepper has been sprinkled ; broil them upon a gridiron over a clear but not a brisk fire, and when they are brown dish them ; lemon juice may be squeezed over them, or the dish in which they are served may be garnished with the thin slices of lemon in halves and quarters. ANOTHER WAT. From not a very fat neck, take off the scrag and the breast bones, leaving the remainder the length you intend the cutlets, then take the chine bone clean off, then the skin and some of the fat ; you will now have the muttton free from bones to cut your cutlets, and you will find you can cut fourteen good cutlets from this trimmed neck without any hacking ; beat each cutlet with your beater, trim them neatly, be sure to cut out the packwax, and leave a little fat to each cutlet. If for gratin or bread crumbed, prepare some chopped parsley and shalot, and bread crumbs, put some butter to melt in a stewpan, a little of the parsley and shalot, and some yolk of egg, mix it well up together ; put your bread crumbs on a sheet of paper, adding to it a little salt and pepper ; dip each cutlet into melted butter, put down the bread crumbs with your knife, and lay them on a buttered sautepan until wanted to fry. CUTLETS SAUTB. Cut your neck of mutton precisely as for the crumbed cutlets, have 82 HOW TO COOK. then ready a piece of butter melted in your sautepan, and dip each cutlet both sides in the butter ; when required, fry them a very light color, and pepper and salt them when done ; take them up to drain from the fat, have some good glaze melted, and glaze each cutlet both sides; dish them round with or without a rim of mashed potato. CUTLETS IN BUTTER. Trim them as for former cutlets very neatly ; dip each cutlet in butter and fry them ; dish them upon a napkin with fried parsley ; this you may do with a previously-dressed neck of mutton. MUTTON CUTLETS, MAINTENON. Trim the cutlets as in the preceediug, half fry them, then cover them with fine herbs and bread crumbs, and season with pepper and suit lay all to cool ; have some fresh parsley to add to the already fried herbs and shalots. When cool spread the butter and herbs thick upon each cutlet ; sprinkle them with bread crumbs ; wrap them in buttered foolscap paper, and broil them over a slow fire until done. BRAISED CUTLETS. Trim your mutton from the bones as before, then put it whole into a good braise, let it stew gently until tender, and put it aside to get cold ; when so, cut your cutlets as thick as the former, trim them neatly, make them hot and glace them. FILLET OF MUTTON. Choose a very large leg, cut from four to five inches in thickness from the large end, take out the bone, and in its place put a highly savored forcemeat, flour, and roast it for two hours ; it may be sent to table with melted butter poured over it, or a rich brown gravy and red currant jelly. HARICOT MUTTON. In this dish remove the bones, leave the fat on, and cut each cutlet thick ; fry them over a quick fire to brown ; twelve cutlets will make this dish ; put them into a proper sized stewpan with a little good second stock, pepper and salt, a little piece of sugar, cover it over and stew gently over a slow fire ; when tender, strain off sufficient stock for the sauce. HASH Is made from former-dressed mutton, leg or saddle, cut in nice thin- shaped pieces, and put into some good brown sauce. AND HOW TO CARVE. 83 HASH MUTTON. Cut the cold mutton into slices as uniform in size as possible, flour them, pepper and salt them, put them into a stewpan with some gravy made of an onion stewed, with whole pepper and toasted bread, in a pint of water, to which a little walnut ketchup has been added — this gravy should be stewed two hours before using. Do not let the hash boil ; when it is done, add a little thickening of butter, flour and water, if required, and serve up with sippets of toasted bread. IRISH STEW. Cut a neck of mutton as far the haricot ; blanch the chops in water, then put them into another stewpan with four onions cut in slices, put to it a little of your second stock, and let it boil a quarter of an hour ; have ready some potatoes pared, put them into the stewpan with the mutton, with salt and pepper. As some like the potatoes whole and some mashed, as to thicken the stew, you must boil them accordingly ; dish the meat round, and the vegetables in the middle. TO MAKE A SCOTCH HAGGIS. Take the stomach of a sheep. The washing and cleaning is of more consequence than all, as it will be a bad color and a bad taste if not well cleaned ; when clean, turn it inside out, then let it lie for a day or two in salt and water. Blanch the liver, lights, and heart of the sheep, lay them in cold water, chop all very fine — the liver you had better grate, — chop very finely a pound of the suet, and dry in the oven a pound of oatmeal ; mix all this well together, season with pepper and salt, a little chopped parsley and onion ; then sew up the bag ; before you finish sewing it, add a few spoonfuls of good white stock ; put it in a stewpan with a drainer ; boil it in water, keeping it well covered all the time, and prick it all over with a small larding pin, to keep it from bursting ; it will take several hours to boil ; be careful in taking it up, and let your dish be large enough. LEG OF MUTTON BRAISED. Procure a small leg of mutton of choice flavor, as it is best fitted for braising ; take off the knuckle neatly, divide it into two or three pieces, trim the leg of all the superfluous edges, and then half roast it; place it with the broken knuckle into a stewpan, add the trim- mings with half a dozen slices of rich fat bacon, thyme, knotted mar- joram, and other sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, and about half an ounce of butter rolled in flour ; stew the whole gently, shaking it occasionally, and turn it while stewing ; when it is tender, take it 84 HOW TO COOK, up, skim the gravy, strain, boil it last until it is reduced to a glaze, and serve. TO SEND A LEO OF MUTTON NEATLY TO TABLE WHICH HAS BEEN CUT FOR A PREVIOUS MEAL. Too much must not have been cut from the joint, or it will not answer the purpose. Bone it, cut the meat as a fillet, lay forcemeat inside, roll it, and lay it in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it ; add various kinds of vegetables, onions, turnips, carrots, parsley, &c, in small quantities ; stew two hours ; thicken the gravy, and serve the fillets with the vegetables round it. SHOULDER OF MUTTON. Must be well roasted, and sent to table with the skin a nice brown and serve with onion sauce. LOIN OF MUTTON STEWED. Remove the skin, bone it, roll it, then put it in a stewpan with a pint and a half of water, two dessert-spoonfuls of pyroligneous acid, a piece of butter, sweet herbs, and an onion or two ; when it has stewed nearly four hours, strain the gravy, add two spoonfuls of red wine, hot up, and serve with jelly. BREAST OF MUTTON. May be stewed in gravy until tender ; bone it, score it, season well with cayenne, black pepper, and salt ; boil it, and while cooking, skim the fat from the gravy in which it has been stewed, slice a few gherkins, and add with a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup ; boil it, and pour over the mutton when dished. BREAST OF MUTTON CRUMBED OR GRATIN. If one breast of mutton, cut off the chine bone down to the gristle ; if you have a stock-pot on, put the breast of mutton into it, let it boil until tender, then take it up to cool ; have ready as for the crumb ed cutlets, adding to the butter and egg a little chopped mushroom which strew all over it with a paste brush ; then put it on a dish and place it in the oven to brown ; the sauce will be under it when dished. NECK OF MUTTON. This dish is most useful for broth, but may be made a pleasant one by judicious cooking. To send it to table merely boiled or baked, is to disgust the partaker of it. When it is cooked as a single dish, first boil it slowly until nearly done, then having moistened a quanti- AND HOW TO CARVE, 86 ty of bread crumbs and sweet herbs, chopped very fine, with the yolk of an egg, let the mutton be covered with it, and placed in a Dutch or American oven before the fire, and served when nicely browned. The breast may be cooked in the same manner. TO STEW A BRISKET Of LAMB. Cut it into pieces, pepper and salt well, and stew in sufficient gravy to cover th*e meat until tender, then thicken the sauce, and pour in a glass of sherry ; serve on a dish of stewed mushrooms. SWEETBREADS. Should be soaked in water, put for eight or ten minutes in boiling Water, and then into clear cold spring water, to blanch. They may be cut in slices, or in dice, and put into fricasees of meat or ragouts, or they may be served as a separate dish. SWEETBREADS AS CUTLETS. If you cannot get heart sweetbreads, you must use the throat. Blanch them for about ten minutes, then put them to cool in cold water ; then take them out and dry them in a cloth, cut longways twelve or fourteen pieces for cutlets, making them a nice shape ; if vou wish for them to be white saute cutlets, you must put some butter or lard in your cutlet-pan, juice of a lemon, a little white pep* per, and salt 5 do not color them, but take them up and lay them up- on white paper to soak up the grease from them ; dish them round upon a tureen, and pour the sauce upon the middle of them, lamb's head. Wash well a lamb's head and pluck, take out the brains, blauch them by themselves, boil the head and pluck for about a quarter of an hour, take it up to cool, take out the tongue, trim the two halves of the head neatly, and score it, then egg and bread-crumb them as you would cutlets, and brown them in the oven or before the fire. Cut up in small dice in equal quantities the tongue, liver, heart, and lights ; fry in a stewpan a little chopped parsley, shalot, and mush- room if you have it, to a nice light brown ; dry up the the butter with flour, use some good second stock or brown sauce ; season with lemon, cayenne pepper, salt, and a dust of sugar, put the eminceeS under the head, the brain, egg, and crumb in four pieces, and put round. SHEEP OR LAMB'S TROTTERS. Get a dozen or two of trotters, stew them for several hours, until all the bones will come from them 5 save the liquor ; do not break the skin, stuff them with good quenells or forcemeat ; return them again into the stock, boil them about fifteen minutes, and glaEe them ; iauce is good with them, or you may fry them with butter 86 HOW TO COOK, SADDLE OF LAMB. This joint is now seen nearly as frequently at table as the fore* quarter, and, if well cooked, is certainly fine eating. Boast it quick" ly, but be very careful neither to scorch it nor to take it from the fire until it is done ; baste with the fat and gravy which fall from it, and in an hour and three quarters it will be done, unless larger than common, and then it will take two hours ; serve with mint and cu- cumber sauce. TO ROAST A LEG OF LAMS. The rules laid down for roast mutton must be scrupulously observed with respect to lamb ; let it roast gradually, and commence a distance from the fire ; a leg of five pounds will take an hour and a quarter, one of six pounds will take an hour and a half* TO BOIL A LEO OF LAMB. Put in sufficient clear cold soft water to cover it, let it remain half* an-hour ; a table-spoonful of vinegar or half a handful of salt may be thrown in ; put it into a thin white cloth which has been floured, and boil it ; a good-sized bundle of sweet herbs may be thrown into the saucepan ; if six pounds, it will be done in an hour and a half 5 serve with spinach or French beans ; if sent to table cold, tastefully lay handsome sprigs of parsley about it ; it may, while hot, be garn- ished with parsley, with thin slices of lemon laid round the dish. PORK. When in season, the frequency of its appearance upon a homely table is no small proof of the estimation in which it is held. Like Veal, it is indigestible, especially when it is underdone. In roasting or in boiling, ample time should be allowed for the joints. Pork is always salted for boiling, and is much liked in this form. When sent to table roasted, apple sauce should in every case accompany it HOW TO CHOOSE PORK. In young pork the lean when pinched will break ; the thicknesa and toughness of the rind shows it to be old. Measly pork may be detected by the kernels in the fat ; it should not be eaten. Dairy-fed pork bears the palm over all others. TO ROAST A SUCKlftO PlO. A sucking pig should be dressed as soon after being killed as praG- tible. When scalded and prepared for cooking, lay in the belly a AND HOW TO CARVE. 8T stuffing of bread, sage, and onions, pepper and salt, witk a piece of butter, then sew it up, rub the skin of the pig with butter, skewer the legs back, that roasting the inside as well as outside of the pig may be thoroughly browned. It must be put to a quick fire, but at such a distance as to roast gradually, and a coating, of flour should be dredged over it that it may not blister, or it should not be left a minute ; if floured, when the pig is done scrape the flour off with a wooden or very blunt knife, and rub it with a buttered cloth ; cut of! the head, and dividing it, take out the brains, mix them with a little gravy or bread sauce ; divide the pig in half from the neck to tail, and lay each inside flap upon the dish, so that the two edges of the back touch ; place each half of the head with the outer side upper- most at each end of the dish, and an ear on each side ; the gravy should be poured in the dish hot, and the whole served as hot as pos- sible ; as a matter of convenience it is often sent to the baker's oven ; a large piece of butter should accompany it for the baker to baste it with, and upon its return, it should be cut and served as above. A LEG OF PORK ROASTED. The pork should be young and dairy-fed ; score the skin with a sharp penknife ; a little fresh butter is sometimes rubbed over the skin to make it brown, and crisp without blistering. Chop some sage that has been scalded very fine, add to it an onion parboiled, mix some bread crumbs and a small portion of finely-chopped apple ; mix altogether, season with pepper and salt, make an incision by separating the skin from the fat in the under and fillet end of the leg, and place the stuffing there ; serve up with apple sauce. The time of roasting will depend upon the size of the leg. A LEG OP PORK BOILED. After having been salted, it should be washed in clean cold water , and scraped thoroughly white and clean preparatory to cooking ; it should then be put into a floured cloth, and into cold water on the fire ; when the rind is quite tender the pork will be doue. Let the water be well skimmed, and serve with such vegetables as are in sea- son. Should the joint be large, allow a quarter of an hour to each pound, with an additional twenty minutes from the time it boils. LOIN OF PORK. Should, like the leg, be scored before roasting, and well jointed, to make the chops separate easily, and then roast as a loin of mutton ; or it may be put into enough water to cover it ; simmer until it is nearly done, then take it out, strip the skin off, coat it well with yolk of egg and bread crumbs, and roast for about a quarter of an hour, or until it is thoroughly done. 88 HOW TO COOK, SPARE RIB. A spare rib will take two hours and a half to roast, unles3 very large, and then three hours will be required to cook it thoroughly 5 while roasting, baste with butter and dredge with flour, pound some gage, and powder the spare rib with it about twenty minutes before it is done 5 a pinch of salt may be added. BOILED PORK — OP ALL KINDS. The leg you must skin the same as ham, and dish it back part up- wards, and glaze it ; place a ruffle at the knuckle ; use for sauce, sauer kraut, or stewed red cabbage ; peas pudding to all pork when boiled. PIG'S CHEEK — A HALF OWE. Boil and trim in the shape of ham and if very fat, carre it as a cockle-shell ; glaze it well, or put bread crumbs and brown them j sauce as before. PORK CUTLETS. Out from a neck, or what is called the fore-loin of pork, the best end ; trim it as you do lamb or mutton, leaving a little fat ; scrape the bone, rub or chop some sage fine, with a very little piece of sba- lot, mix it up with only sufficient bread crumbs, put black pepper and melted lard, press the crumbs well upon the cutlets, have a sauce- pan greased with lard, lay them into it, fry them a nice light brown, take them up and dry them on paper, and dish upon mashed pota- toes ; use tomato sauce, or any other as to palate. FORK CHOPS OR STEAKS. Out from the best end of the loin, or from the chumy or leg if steaks : remove the fat and skin and turn them frequently and quick- ly while broiling ; if your gridiron be of the old fashion it is better to keep it aslant on the fire, the handle being the lowest part, it pre- vents very much of the fat from falling into the fire, the flare of which is apt to impart a disagreeable flavor to the chops ; this observation applies also to mutton chops, and will be found useful if followed : sprinkle them with salt when nearly done, and rub with a little fresh butter previous to serving ; if for a side-dish garnish with crisped parsley. PIG'S HEAD BAKED. Let it be divided, and thoroughly cleaned; take out the brains, trim the snout and ears, bake it an hour and a-half, wash the brains thoroughly, blanch them, beat them up with an egg, pepper and salt, some finely chopped or pounded sage, and a small piece of butter j fry them, or brown them, before the fire; serve with the head. AND HOW TO CARVE, 89 pig's head boiled. This 13 the more profitable dish, though not so pleasant to the pal- ate ; it should first be salted, which is usually done by the pork butcher, it should be boiled gently an hour and a-quarter ; serve with vegetables. PETTITOES. Put them in just sufficient water to cover them, add the heart and liver, boil them ten minutes, then take out the liver and heart, and mince them small, return them to the feet, and stew until quite tender) thicken with flour and butter, season with pepper and salt, and serve up with sippets of plain or toasted bread ; make a pyramid of the minced heart and liver, and lay the feet round them. When pettitoes are fried, they should first be boiled, then dipped in butter, and fried a light brown. PTG'S HARSLET. Is made with the liver and sweetbreads, which must be well clean* ed ; add to them pieces of pork, both fat and lean, chop finely sage and onions, season with pepper and salt, and mix with the preceding ; put them in a cowl, tie it closely, and roast. It may also be baked Serve with a sauce of port wine, water, and mustard, just boiled up, and put into the dish. TO CURE HAMS. Pound some bay salt, saltpetre, common salt, and some coarse sug* ar, mix it well together, then put it all in to get hot, and while hot, rub the hams well with this, repeating it every morning for a week ; then let them lie in the brine for another week, until all is well incor« porated in the meat ; then take them out to drain on dishes, flour them, and hang them up to dry. Tou must be guided a good deal by the size of the hams. TONGUES. You will first lay in salt, then use the same preparations as in the preceding, daily ; about ten days will do for the tongues ; sheep's tongues may be done the same way, but in less time. TO BAKE A HAM. Put the ham in soak previous to dressing it ; if an old one, two hours will be required, but if not very old, an hour will suffice. Wipe it very dry, and cover it with a paste about an inch in thickness. The edges being first moistened, must be drawn together, and made to adhere, or the gravy will escape. Bake it in a regular well-heated oven, it will take from three to six hours, according to its weight j 90 HOW TO COOK, when done, remove the paste, and then the skin. This must be done when the ham is hot. If well baked, and not too salt, it will prove of finer flavor than if boiled. HAM RASHERS, OR SLICES, May be toasted, broiled or fried, and served with spinach and poach- ed eggs, or boiled green peas. Stewed with green peas, or cut in thin slices, divided in four pieces, each piece rolled and fastened with a skewer, roasted in a Dutch oven, and served with peas. They should in all cases, be cut in even thickness, and cooked without in* juring the color. Bacon may be dressed in the same variety. TO BOIL BACON. If very salt, soak it in soft water two hours before cooking. Put it into a saucepan with plenty of water, and let it boil gently ; if two or three pounds, it will take from an hour to an hour and a quarter ; i i larger, an hour and forty minutes will suffice. If a fine piece of the gammon of bacon, it may, when done, have the skin, as in hams, stripped off, and have finely powdered bread raspings strewed over it. BACON, TO BROIL. Make up a sheet of paper in the drippingpan, cut your bacon into thin slices, cut off the rind, lay the bacon on the paper, put it over the gridiron, set it over a slow fire, and it will broil clearly. BACON AND CABBAGE. Boil some fine streaked part of bacon with a little stock, and the ends of eight or ten sausages ; boil in the same stock some white cab- bages for two hours, adding salt and spice, and serve very hot ; place your sausages and cabbage round your dish, and the bacon in the middle. BACON AND EGGS. Take a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon, cut it into thin slices, and put them into a stewpan over a slow fire, taking care to turn them frequently ; then pour the melted fat of the bacon into a dish, break over it seven or eight eggs, add two spoonfuls of gravy, and a little salt and pepper, and stew the whole over a slow fire, pass a sala- mander over it, and serve. BACON TOAST. Cut some thin slices of bread, about two or three inches long, and some streaked bacon in small pieces, dip them into a raw egg beaten up with shred parsley, green onions, shalots, and pepper, fry over a slow fire, and serve with clear sauce and a little vinegar in it. AND HOW TO CARVE. 91 POULTRY. The best sort of poultry for table is the Dorking breed, they are five-toed, have white legs, and feathers of a greyish-white color. About three weeks before you want to use them, six or twelve fowls, according to your consumption, should be put into the coop, and, as you kill one or more, replace them, to keep up the stock ; for the first week feed them alternate days with boiled rice and soaked bread and milk, the remainder of the time mix barley- meal with the skimmings of your stock-pot and a spoonful of moist sugar; the windows of your poultry-house must be darkened. Fowls should be carefully drawn, so that the gall bladder is unin- jured, and should only be done through the vent. Roast with a brisk and clear fire. A capon will take five and thir- ty minutes ; smaller fowls a less time in proportion. A turkey of fourteen pounds will take two hours ; the time will inctease or de» crease with the weight. The same rule applies to geese; a large one will take an hour and a half, chickens take half an hour, pigeons ten minutes less. It must be understood that the adherence to the time will depend on the state of the fire, &c. ; a slow fire will make a longer time necessary, and, at the same time, spoil the poultry. POULTRY AND GAME HOW TO CHOOSE. Turkey.— The cock bird, when young, has a smooth black leg with a short spur. The eyes bright and full, and moist supple feet, when fresh ; the absence of these signs denotes age and staleness ; the hen may be judged by the same rules. Fowls like a turkey ; the young cock has a smooth leg and a short Spur ; when fresh, the vent is close and dark. Hens, when young, have smooth legs and combs ; when old, these will be rough ; a good capon has a thick belly and large rump, a poll comb, and a swelling breast. Geese 4 —-In young geese the feet and bills will be yellow and free from hair. When fresh, the feet are pliable ; they are stiff when stale. Ducks may be selected by the same rules. Pigeons, when fresh, have supple feet, and the vent will be firm ; if discolored and supple, they are stale. Plovers, when fat, have hard vents ; but, like almost all other birds, may be chosen by the above rules. Hares. — When a hare is young and fresh, the cleft in the lip is narrow, the body stiff, the ears tear easily, and the claws are smooth and sharp ; and old and stale hares will be the opposite of this. Bab- bite the same. 92 HOW TO COOK, Partridges.— Yellow legs and a dark bill are signs by which a young bird may be known, and a rigid vent when fresh. When this part is green the bird is stale. to Bone birds. Begin to bone any birds by first taking out the breast bone, when you will have sufficient space to remove the back with a sharp knife, and then the leg bones ; the skin must not be broken but the meat of the legs must be pushed inwards. TURKEY ROAST. It is stuffed with either sausage meat or fillet of Veal stuffing', "While roasting, a piece of paper should be placed over the part stuffed, as, being bulky, it will catch the fire and become scorched, but keep the heat well to the breast, in order that it may be as well done as the rest of the bird. Baste well, and froth it up. Serve with gravy in the dish, and bread sauce in a tureen. To the sausage meat, If uged, add a few bread crumbs and a beaten egg. Turkey is some* times stuffed with truffles ; they are prepared thus : they must be peeled, and chopped, and pounded in a mortar, in quantities of a pound and a half; rasp the same weight of the fat of bacon, and mix it with the truffles. Stuff the turkey with it ; this stuffing is usually placed in the turkey two days previous to cooking, it is supposed to impart a flavor to the flesh of the fowl. Cut thin slices of fat bacon, and place over the breast of the turkey. Secure it with half a sheet of clean white paper, aud roast. Two hours will roast it. TURKEY BOILED. A hen bird is considered the best. It may be stuffed with truffles, or sausage meat. Boil it in a clean floured cloth ; throw some salt into the water in which it is boiled. Cover cloth, and simmer for two hours, removing the scum frequently. Serve with white sauce, or parsley and butter. TURKEY HASHED. Cut up the remains of a roasted turkey, put it into a stewpan with half a gill of sherry, shalots, truffles, mushrooms, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and a little stock ; boil half an hour, and reduce to a thick sauce. When ready, add a pound of anchovies, and a squeeze of lemon. , Skim the sauce free from fat, and serve all together. TURKEY LEGS BROILED. Braise some undressed legs of turkey until tender, dip them in melted butter, or clear salad oil ; broil them a fine brown color, and ierve with sauee. AND HOW TO CARVE. 93 TURKEY POULT. Should be roasted without stuffing ; it will be done with a clear fire in twenty minutes. Serve with bread or gravy sauce. TO ROAST A GOOSE. Goose in itself is of a strong rich flavor, and requires both nicety in the cooking, as well as in the stuffing, to obviate that strength of flavor. There are many modes of stuffing ; for one mode, take two moderate sized onions, and boil them rapidly ten minutes, then chop them finely, mince sage to the quantity, of half the onion, add of powdered bread twice as much as of onion, pepper and salt it, intro- ducing a little cayenne, and then bind it with the beaten yolk of an egg. Potatoes mashed are sometimes introduced, but not frequently, into the body ; they should be mashed with floury potatoes mixed with a little fresh butter and cream, rather highly seasoned with cayenne and salt. Both ends of the goose should be secured when trussed, that the seasoning may not escape. It should be roasted before a quick fire, and kept constantly basted ; a piece of white paper may be placed over the breast while roasting, until it rises, and then it may be removed ; it will take from an hour and a half to an hour and three quarters ; serve with a rich brown gravy and apple sauce. Previous to sending to table, a flavoring may be made as follows : — to a dessert-spoonful of made mustard, add a quarter of a tea-spoon- ful of cayenne pepper, about the same quantity of salt, mix it evenly with a glass of port wine, and two glasses of rich gravy, make it hot, cut a slit in the apron of the goose, and pour it through just previously to serving. TO ROAST DUCKS. Ducks should be well plucked without tearing the skin, all the plugs being removed. Some cooks go so far as to skin the duck, holding it a minute by the feet in scalding water, that the skin may peel easier ; clean the insides thoroughly with a little warm water, and stuff them with the same stuffing as for geese, using a little more bread for the sake of mildness ; roast them before a brisk fire, but not too close, and baste very frequently ; they will take from half an hour to an hour, according to the age aud size ; when the breast plumps, they will be just done ; serve them with a rich brown gravy. TO BOIL DUCKS. Clean and pluck them, taking care that the skin be preserved from rents while plucking ; salt them for about thirty hours previous to cooking ; flour a clean white cloth and boil them in it, a moderate sized duck will take about an hour's boiling, make a rich onion sauce with milk, and send it to table with the duck. When the duck is 94 HOW TO COOK. boiled fresh it may be stufled as for roasting, and served with the same description of gravy. STEWED DUCK. The ducks should be cut into joints, and laid in a stewpan with a pint of good gravy, let it come to a boil, and as the scum rises remove it ; season with salt and cayenne, and let them stew gently three quarters of an hour, mixing smoothly two tea-spoonfuls of fine ground rice, with a glass of port, which stir into the gravy, and let it have seven or eight minutes to amalgamate with it, then dish and send to table very hot. WILD DUCKS, OR TEAL. You must be very particular in not roasting these birds too much ; a duck about fifteen minutes, with a good fire ; baste them very fre- quently ; teal will, of course, take less time, but your fire and motion of the spit must be attended to, and when you dish it, unless preferred to be done by the gentleman at the table, draw your knife four times down the breast ; have ready a little hot butter, and juice of a lemon, cayenne pepper, a little dust of sugar, a glass of port wine, pour it all hot, at the last minute, over your ducks ; the remainder left of these birds the next day makes excellent salmi or hash, taking care of all the gravy that may remain. WDLD DUCKS. These birds require clean plucking and clean washing, which may be done by pouring warm water through the body after it has been drawn ; half' an hour before a brisk fire will suffice to roast them, and stuffing is not required. When it is sent to table, the breast should be sliced, and a lemon squeezed over it, the slices of the breast and the wings are the only parts really worth eating to a sensitive palate the strong flavour of the bird rendering it a dish only for those with peculiar tastes. ROAST FOWLS. If nicely trussed, make a stuffing of butter and some pepper, dry up the butter with a few bread crumbs, baste it well, adding flour and salt before you take it from the fire. If approved of, stuff the fowl with some good sausage-meat, truffles, or chestnuts. BOILED FOWLS. Flour a white cloth, and put the fowls in cold water, let them sim- mer for three quarters of an hour ; serve with parsley and butter, or oyster or celery sauce. The fowls may be covered with a white sauce if sent cold to table, and garnished with coloured calf's foot jelly of the hue of beetroot. AND ROW TO CARVE. 95 FOWL BROILED. Separate the back of the fowl, and lay the two sides open ; skewer the wings as for roasting, season well with pepper and salt, and broil; send to table with the inside of the fowl to the surface of the dish, and serve mushroom sauce ; it is an admirable breakfast dish when a journey is to be performed. FOWL, ETC., HASHED. This receipt will serve for any but the very larger species of poul- try or game. Joint them, and cut a cutlet from each side of the breast : break the bones of the body, and put all into a stewpan with a pint of water, a small fagot of sweet herbs, one carrot sliced and an onion : let it stew an hour and three quarters, or two hours, then skim the fat from the gravy as it rises, strain it, skim again, and pour it into another stewpan ; thicken with a little butter and flour, and flavour with Harvey's sauce, or any sauce applicable to such a dish, a little pepper and salt, and ground nutmeg, or mace for seasoning ; add the fowl, and heat it thoroughly through without permitting the hash to come to a boil. Sippets of toasted or fried bread cut in dice surround the dish, in the centre of which the fowl is handsomely laid. GUINEA FOWL, ROASTED. The bird has very much the flavour of a pheasant, and should be allowed to hang as long as it can without being too far gone; it may be then trussed and dressed as a pheasant, or as a turkey. Serve with a rich brown gravy and bread sauce ; it will take from forty-five to fifty minutes to roast. MADE DISHES OF POULTRY. Partly roast the fowl, cut it up, detach the wings and legs, care- fully dividing side bones, neck bones, breast and back, in as hand- some pieces as possible ; take eight or ten large onions, which cut in slices of moderate thickness, make in a stewpan a layer of the sliced onion with some chopped parsley, then lay upon it some of the fowl, again a layer of the onion and parsley until the whole of the fowl and onion are used . place two bay leaves, about as much salt as would fill a large tea-spoon, four table-spoonfuls of olive oil, or, if that is not to the palate, substitute cream ; it should simmer gently until it is done and then be dished, the onion in the middle, serve with a lit- tle sauce. AN INDIAN PILAU. Truss a fowl, as for boiling, pass it a few minutes in the oven, raising it up with bacon or buttered paper ; fry some onions, a few bruised coriander seeds, and a few cardamum seeds whole, fry a nice yb HOW TO COOK, light colour four onions cut in slices, adding to this a gill or more of cream, when all fried in a little butter ; put in your fowl with some good veal stock, have ready some rice boiled in milk for two minutes, skim it off and add it to the fowl, frequently looking at it, and moving it, to keep it from sticking or burning ; let your fowl stew for a quar- ter of an hour before you add the rice, and do not let the rice get mashed ; season with cayenne pepper and salt, putting all the rice and liquor round the fowl. You can use rabbits, chickens, quails, or veal instead of fowl, the same way. CHICKENS BOILED. Care should be taken to select the chickens plump, or they form a meagre dish ; they should receive much attention in the boiling ; they require less time than a fowl, and are sent to table with white sauce, and garnished with tufts of white broccoli. CHICKENS PULLED. Kemove the skin carefully from a cold chicken, then pull the flesh from the bones ; preserving it as whole as you can. Flour them well and fry them a nice brown in fresh butter ; draw them, and stew in a good gravy well-seasoned ; thicken a short time before serving with flour and butter, and add the juice of half-a-lemon. CUTLETS OF CHICKEN. Remove the skin of two or three chickens . Bone all the joints except the wings, unless the fowl is very fleshy, and then remove them also, removing likewise breast bones ; flatten the flesh, and spread over them a seasoning of salt, cayenne, grated nutmeg and mace, the salt being in the greatest proportion. Coat them with beaten egg and bread crumbs, and fry them a nice brown. Have ready some good brown gravy seasoned and flavored with lemon pickle. Lay the cutlets in the centre of the dish, and pour the gravy over them. PIGEONS ROASTED. Yeal stuffing for pigeons, it improves the flavor ; they must be fresh and well cleaned ; butter and parsley may be served with them ; but parsley alone as a stuffing, though frequently used, is by no means so palatable as the veal stuffing, or one made with veal, the fat of bacon, and the crumbs of bread soaked in milk, and well seasoned. They are sometimes stuffed with truffles, or chesnnts and bacon, as turkey, covered with thin slices of fat bacon enwraped in vine leaves instead of paper. They receive a fine flavor, but are they worth so much trouble ? AND HOW TO CARVE. 91 PIGEON — BROILED. Split the backs, season them highly, lay them over a clear brisk fire, and serve with mushroom sauce. PIGEONS STEWED. Take a white cabbage, cut it as if for pickling, then rinse it in clear cold water, drain it well, and put it into a saucepan with equal quan- tities of milk and water, boil it, strain off the milk, and take a por- tion of the cabbage and lay it in a stewpan ; soak the pigeons for half an hour in cold milk and water, season them well with salt and pepper, adding a little cayenne; then place them in the stewpan with the cabbage, cover them over with what remains, add some white broth, stew slowly until the pigeons are tender, thicken with a little cream, flour, and butter, let it boil, and serve up the pigeon with a puree of the cabbage. PIGEONS IN JELLY. Make some jelly of calf's foot, or if you have the liquor in which a knuckle of veal has been boiled, it will answer the same purposes; place it in a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, white pepper, a slice of lean bacon, some lemon peel, and the pigeons, which, being trussed, and their necks propped up to make them appear natural, season to your palate. Bake them ; when they are done remove them from the liquor, but keep them covered close, that their color may be preserved. Remove the fat, boil the whites of a couple of eggs with the jelly to clear it, and strain it ; this is usually done by dipping a cloth into boiling water, and straining it through, as it prevents anything like scum or dirt sweeping through the strainer. Put the jelly rough over and round the pigeons. TO POT PIGEONS. Season them well with pepper, cayenne, a little mace, and salt, pack them closely in a pan, cover them with butter, and bake them ; let them get cold, then take off the fat ; and put the pigeons into pots, pouring melted butter over them. WOOD PIGEONS. May be dressed exactly as tame pigeons, save that they require rather less time in the cooking, and the gravy or sance should be richer and of higher flavor. GAME, &0. VENISON — THE HAUNCH. "The observed of all observers," when venison epicures sit at table ; it is a joint, if properly kept, properly cooked, and served hot, must 93 HOW TO COOK, })rove delicious to the palate. It should always hang a considerable eDgth of time, for the delicacy of its flavor is obtained by hanging only ; if it be cooked while fresh, it will not equal in any respect a haunch of mutton. The haunch of venison, when about to be roasted, should be washed in warm milk and water, and dried with a clean cloth ; if it has hung very long and the skin smells musty, it will be the safest plan to re- move the skin, and wrap the whole of the haunch in paper well greased with fresh butter. During the time it is at the fire, do not be afraid of basting it too much, it will require all the cook is likely to give it ; if it be a buck haunch, and large, it will take nearly four hours ; if comparatively small, three hours and a half will suffice ; if a doe haunch, three hours and a quarter will be enough. Remove the paper when it is done enough, and dredge quickly with flour, to produce a froth. Dish it and serve, but let there be nothing with it in the dish ; the gravy should be sent to table in its proper dish, accompanied by currant jelly. The haunch is not unfrequently roasted in a paste, which in its turn is enclosed in paper, and removed when the joint is nearly cooked. The above is the simplest and not the least palata- ble mode of sending it to table. TO DRESS VENISON. All venison for roasting should have a paste made of lard over it ; after having papered the meat with buttered paper, then your stiff paste upon the top of that, either dangle it or put it in *a cradle spit ; a few minutes before you require to take it up take off the paste and paper, baste it with some butter, salt it and flour it ; when done give it a few more turns round, and send it up very hot, your dish and gravy to be very hot also ; any dry pieces and the shank you will boil down with a little brown stock for the gravy ; send currant jelly in a boat, and French beans in a vegetable dish. HASHED VENISON. Cut and trim some nice thin slices of venison, fat and lean ; have a nice brown sauce made from the bones in scrag of the venison, put the meat you have cut into this sauce with the gravy that has run from the vension, and a glass of port wine. Cut up some of the fat into pieces an inch thick, put the fat in a stewpan, and some hot stock upon them ; when you have dished up your hash, which should be in a hot water dish, with a holey spoon, take out the fat, and sprinkle it all over the hash ; send up currant jelly. PARTRIDGES. Should not be stuffed. Grate bread crumbs into a shallow dish, place them before the fire to brown, shaking them occasionally, and send them to table with the birds. AND HOW TO CARVE. 99 PARTRIDGE — BROILED. Let the partridge hang until longer would make it offensive, then split it, and take a soft clean cloth and remove all the moisture inside and out ; lay it upon a gridiron over a very clear fire, and spread a little salt and cayenne over it. When it is done, which 'will be in twenty minutes, rub a little butter over it, and send it to table with mushroom sauce. PARTRIDGES STEWED. Partridges are differeutly trussed for stewing to what they are for roasting, the wings are fixed over the back, and the legs skewered. Take a piece of bacon, and put it with a small piece of butter in a stewpan ; fry it brown, put in the partridges so that the bacon covers the breast, and let them be very brown : add half a pint of gravy. Boil a cabbage, so that it is ready by the time the patridges are fried brown, chop it with pepper and salt, and a lump of butter. Add it with the gravy to the partridges, and stew slowly for an hour ; when dishing, place the bacon in the centre of the dish, lay the partridges upon it, and make a wall of the cabbage round. While stewing, turn the partridges often. TO ROAST GROUSE. Dress the birds as above, and serve on a toast; they will require twenty minutes less than black cock in roasting. When they are sent to table without the toast, serve with fried bread crumbs and bread sauce, or brown gravy instead of the bread crumbs. STUFFING FOR A HARE. After having either scraped or scalded the liver, scrape some fat bacon, a little suet, some parsley, thyme, knotted-majoram, a little shalot, a few crumbs of bread, pepper and salt, a few grains of nut- meg, beat it all well in a mortar with one egg y but if your hare is boned it will take more. You can dress a boned hare two wajs : either taking- each bone out but the head and the point of the tail ; but this will not keep so good a shape as if you only took out the back and rib bones, leaving the shoulders and legs on ; this way, when stuffed, will keep its shape best. PLOVERS. These birds must not be drawn, roast them before a brisk fire, but at a distance, and serve on toast with melted butter. WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES Should not be drawn, but have toast as for grouse under them, pass- ing out the tail, and chop it and spread it on the bird, lay them under the heads in the dripping pan. 100 HOW TO COOK, WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES. Koast them undrawn, serve them upon a toast, and take nothing with them but butter. BABBITS. You will roast the same as hares ; and if required to be stuffed — melted butter, chopped parsley, and the liver chopped, pepper and salt. BABBIT. Rabbits will form excellent side dishes, providing they are boned neatly, larded, and braised ; they may also be lined inside with bacon cut in thin slices, the fatter the better, and a stuffing added, which may be either the same as hare or veal. BABBITS. Fillet those the same as fillets of hare. You may if you wish, leave the fillet adhering to the leg, when removed so far from the back, turn it over upon the leg, and lard with bacon or truffles that side ; the bones are most excellent in your clear stock. TO BOAST BABBITS. The rabbit should hang in its skin from four to five days, a3 the weather will permit, then skin it, and make a strong seasoning of black pepper, ground allspice, cayenne, a little nutmeg, three parts of a gill of vinegar, and the same quantity of port wine. Let it re- main in this pickle a day and a half, turning and rubbing it frequent- ly ; staff" it, and truss it as a hare, and serve with the same sauce. BABBIT, BOASTED. Truss it with the head on, blanch the liver, heart, and kidneys, and chop them fine, with a little parsley and shalot, and some pepper and salt, put it into a little gravy and butter, and boil it a little ; either put the sauce in a boat, or in the dish under the rabbit. BODLED BABBITS. A rabbit should boil only twenty minutes, and boil slowly ; if lar- ger than common, an extra ten minutes may be allowed ; it should be sent to table smothered in onion sauce, and the water should be kept free from scum. It is trussed for boiling differently to what it is for roasting. BABBIT WITH ONIONS. Truss your rabbit, and lay it in cold water ; if for boiling, pour AND HOW TO CARVE. 101 the gravy of onions over it, and if you have a white stock-pot on, boil it in that. CUTLETS OP FOWL AND GAME. The cutlets are, of course, larger from fowls, &c, than chickens, but they may be prepared in the same manner. The cutlets are usu- ally taken from the thighs, the wings boned, and from the fleshiest part ot the body. The French serve them with sippets of bread fried a light brown, and place each cutlet upon a sippet, pouring into the dish, but not over the cutlets, a rich brown gravy. VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. Vegetables form a most important feature in the art of cooking. It is the boast of French cooks, that we neither know the value, the taste, or the virtues of them, unless they dress them for us — and, to do them justice, they dress them in an infinite variety of ways, and al- so render them delicious to the palate. Much depends upon boiling greens, and the manner in which it is done ; the water should be soft a handful of salt should be thrown into the water, which should be made to boil before the greens are put in ; it should then be made what cooks term " gallop' ' the saucepan should be kept uncovered ; when the greens siok, they are done, and they should be taken out, and quickly too. It is the skill which French cooks exhibit in con- triving and inventing made dishes, chiefly composed of vegetables, which has obtained for them the fame which it is in vain to deny they deserve ; they make the nature of the substances upon which they employ their skill, their study, and present them to the consumer in such fashion as shall, while it pleases the palate, not offend the di- gestion ; it would be as well if our cooks were to emulate their talent in a spirit of generous rivalry, by improving upon their example, ra- ther than run down their abilities with a sneer at the slight character of their courses, which, if composed of dishes '• made out of nothing,'" or, « so disguised, you cannot tell what you are eating," have at least the merit of gratifying the taste, and preventing the head from too plainly indicating that the stomach has received food of which it finds a difficulty in dispossessing itself, Vegetables are a most useful ac- cessory to our daily aliment, and should be made the object of a greater study than they usually are. CHARTREUSE OP VEGETABLES. Line a plain mould with bacon ; have ready some half-done car- rots, turnips, French beans cut long with a French cutter, all the same length, place them prettily round the mould, until you get to the 102 HOW TO COOK. top, and fill in the middle with mashed potatoes, cauliflower, spinach, or some veal forcemeat ; put it on to steam, turn it out, and put as- paragus or mushroom sauce round it. ASPARAGUS. Let the stalks be lightly but well scraped, and as they are done, be thrown into cold water ; when all are finished, fasten them into bun- dles of equal size ; put them into boiling water, throw in a handful of salt, boil until the end of the stalk becomes tender, which will be about half-an hour ; cut a round of bread, and toast it a clear brown, moisten it with the water in which the asparagus was boiled and ar- range the stalks with the white ends outwards. A good melted but- ter must accompany it to table. Asparagus should be dressed as soon after it has been cut as practicable. FRENCH BEANS. When very young the ends and stalks only should be removed, and as they are done, thrown into cold spring water ; when to be dressed put them in boiling water which has been salted with a small quantity of common salt, in a quarter of an hour they will be done, the criterion for which is when they become tender ; the saucepan should be left uncovered, there should not be too much water, and they should be kept boiling rapidly. When they are at their full growth, the ends and strings should be taken off, and the beans divided length- ways and across, or according to the present fashion slit diagonally or aslant. A small piece of soda a little larger than a small-sized pea, if put into the boiling water with the beans, or with any vege- tables, will preserve that beautiful green which is so desirable for them to possess when placed upon the table. FRENCH BEANS, SALAD. Boil them simply, drain them and let them cool ; put them in a dish, and garnish with parsley, pimpernel, and tarragon, and dress like other salads. STEWED BEANS. Boil them in water in which a lump of butter has been placed ; preserve them as white as you can ; chop a few sweet herbs with some parsley very fine, then stew them in a pint of the water in which the leaves have been boiled, and to which a quarter of a pint of cream has beera added ; stew until quite tender, then add the beans, and stew five minutes, thickening with butter and flour. BEANS BOILED. Boil in salt and water with a bunch of savory, drain, and then put them into a stewpan, with five spoonfuls of sauce tournee reduced, AND HOW TO CARVE. 103 the yolk of three eggs, and a little salt, then add a piece of fresh butter, and stir it constantly till of a proper thickness. WINDSOR BEANS. They should be young, and shelled only just previous to cooking ; salt the water in which they are to be cooked, and, when boiling, throw in the beans ; when tender, drain in a cullender, and send to table with plain melted butter, or parsley and butter. They usually accompany bacon or boiled pork to table. HARICOT BEANS. Take two handfuls of the white beans, and let them lie in boiling water until the skins come off; putting them in cold water as you do them, then take them out, and put them in a stewpan with some good stock, and boil them until nearly to a glaze, then add some good brown sauce to them, shaking them about ; season with sugar, salt, and pepper. BEEF ROOTS. Cut in equal sized slices some beet root, boiled or baked, of a good colour, make it hot between two plates in the oven, dish it as you would cutlets, round ; make a good piquant sauce, boil some button onions white and tender, aud throw them in the middle of the dish with the sauce. CABBAGES. A full grown or summer cabbage should be well and thoroughly washed ; before cooking, cut them into four pieces, boil rapidly, with the saucepan uncovered, half an hour ; a young cabbage will take on- ly twenty minutes, but it must be boiled very rapidly ; a handful of salt should be thrown in the water before the cabbage is put in. CABBAGE RED. They are mostly stewed to eat with ham, bacon, or smoked sausa- ges, though sometimes without any meat ; they are very strong eat- ing, and should be first scalded, then stewed with butter, pepper, salt and cloves, and vinegar added to it just before serving ; they are con- sidered wholesome in veal broth for consumptions, but are most pick- led. CAULIFLOWERS, TO BOIL. Trim them neatly, let them soak at least an hour in cold water, put them into boiling water, in which a handful of salt has been thrown, let it boil, occasionally skimming the water. If the cauliflower is small, it will only take fifteen minutes ; if large, twenty minutes may 104 HOW TO COOK, be allowed ; do not let them remain after they are done, but take them up, and serve immediately. If the cauliflowers are to be pre- served white, they ought to be boiled in milk and water, or a little flour should be put into the water in which they are boiled, and melted butter should be sent to table with them. GREEN PEAS. A delicious vegetable, a grateful accessory to many dishes of a more substantial nature. Green peas should be sent to table green, no dish looks less tempting than peas if they wear an autumnal as- pect. Peas should also be young, and as short a time as possible should be suffered to elapse between the periods of shelling and boil- ing. If it is a matter of consequence to send them to table in per- fection, these rules must be strictly observed. They should be as near of a size as a discriminating eye can arrange them ; they should then be put in a cullender, and some cold water suffered to run through them in order to wash them ; then having the water in which they are to be boiled slightly salted, and boiling rapidly, pour in the peas; keep the saucepan uncoverd, and keep them boiling swiitly until ten- der ; they will take about twenty minutes, barely so long, unless older than they should be ; drain completely, pour them into the tureen in which they are to be served, and in the centre put a slice of butter, and when it has melted, stir round the peas gently, adding pepper and salt ; serve as quickly and as hot as possible. HOW TO COOK POTATOES. Potatoes should always be boiled in their " jackets ;" peeling a po- tatoe before boiling is offering a premium for water to run through it and making them waxy and unpalatable ; they should be thoroughly washed and put into cold water. TO BOIL NEW POTATOES. The sooner the new potatoes are cooked after being dug, the bet- ter they will eat ; clear off all the loose skins with a coarse towel and cold water; when they are thoroughly clean, put them into scalding water, a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes will be found sufficient to cook them ; strain off the water dry, sprinkle a little salt over the potatoes^ and send them to table. If very young, melted butter should accompany them. ROASTED POTATOES. Clean thoroughly ; nick a small piece out of the skin, and roast in the oven of the range ; a little butter is sometimes rubbed over the skin to make them crisp. AND HOW TO CARTE , 105 FRIED POTATOES. Remove the peel from an uncooked potato. After it has been tho- roughly washed, cut the potatoe into thin slices, and lay them in a pan with some fresh butter ; fry gently a clear brown, then lay them one upon the other in a small dish, and send to table as an entremets. SPINACH. The leaves of the spinach should be picked from the stems ; it should then be well washed in clean cold water, until the whole of the dirt and grit is removed ; three or four waters should be employ- ed, it will not otherwise be got thoroughly clean : let it drain in a sieve, or shake it in a cloth, to remove the dinging water. Place it in a saucepan with boiling water, there should be very little, it will be done in ten minutes ; squeeze out the water, chop the spinach fine- ly, seasoning well with pepper and salt; pour three or four large spooufuls of gravy over it, place it before the fire until much of the moisture has evaporated, and then serve. LETTUCES AND ENDIVES. Are better, I think, only cut into pieces or into quarters, and dish- ed neatly round, but they must be done in some good stock, and not put into thick sauce ; but when you take them out after being done, you will press and form them, then boil down their liquor to a glaze, which will, when added to your already thick sauce, give the desired flavour, glaze the quarters before dishing them, pour the sauce under and round. PUDDINGS, TARTS, TARTLETS, ETC. PUFF PASTE. One pound of butter, salt or fresh, and one pound of flour, will make a good dish of patty cases, or a large case for a vol-au-vent, and the remaiuder into a good dish of second course pastry. Put your flour upon your board, work finely in with your hands lightly a quarter of the butter, then add water sufficient to make it the stiffness or softness of the remaining butter ; each should be the same substance ; work it up smooth, then roll it out longways half an inch thick ; and place the remainder of the butter cut in slices half way on the paste ; dust flour lightly over it, and double it up ; press it down with your rolling-pin, letting it lie a few minutes, then roll it three times thinner each time, letting it lie a few minutes between each roll, keeping it free from sticking to the board or rolling-pin. This paste is ready for patty-cases, or vol-au-vent, or meat pies. L06 HOW TO COOK, PASTE FOR BORDERS OF DISHES. Six'or eight jolks of eggs, a few drops of water, a little salt, keep mixing in flour until so stiff that you can scarce work it, then beat it and work quite smooth, keeping it in the moist until you require it ; th?n roll it out quite thin, and cut your patterns, placing upon your dishes before it gets too dry,' dipping them on the bottom. Edge in while of eggs. FANCY PASTRY. Use some fancy cutter, and use the second paste as before, cutting each piece a quarter of an inch thick, then egg them and glaze them, and bake them a light brown ; when cold, put different colored sweet- meats, such as apple jelly and red currant jelly, into devices upon the top of each piece, and dish them upon a napkin. SWEET OR BISCUIT CRUST. Put half a pound of flour on your board, put into it two yolks of eggs, mix this all up that you cannot see the egg, then add a good dessert-spoonful of fine sifted sugar ; work it all well in the flour, then work in about two ounces of butter, and mix a little water or milk sufficient to make a stiff past. Beat it with your rolling-pin well, and work it well with your hands until quite smooth ; roll half a quarter of an inch thickness, for your tarts, either ior slip tarts or covered ; glaze the covered tarts either before going into the oven or after ; it first, beat up a little white egg, spread it on the top of your tart, then cover it with sifted sugar, and gently sprinkle the sugar with water until all is damped, then sugar it again, and bake it in a slow fire ; notch the edge of your tart very fine. CHERRY TART. Line the sides of a dish with good crust, strew in sugar, fill it with picked cherries, and put sugar at the top ; red currants may be added if liked, cover with crust, and bake. CURRANT TART. Line a dish with puff paste, strew powdered sugar over the bottom of it, then put in alternate layers of currants carefully picked, and sugar, till the dish is full, then cover and bake it. The addition of raspberries or mulberries to currant tart is a great improvement. QUINCE TART. Take a few preserved quinces, put an equal weight of syrup, made with sugar and water and preserve, into a preserving pan ; boil, skim, then put in the fruit ; when somewhat clear, place the quinces in a tart-dish with puff paste as usual. Cover, bake it, and, when done, lift the top gently, put in the syrup, ice it, and Eerve. AND HOW TO CARVE. 107 BEEP STEAK PIE. Take some good steaks, beat them with a rolling-pin, season them with pepper and salt ; fill a dish with them, adding as much water as will half fill it, then cover it with a good crust, and bake it well. COLD VEAL OR CHICKEN PIE. Lay a crust into a shallow tart dish, and fill it with the following mixture : shred cold veal or fowl, and half the quantity of ham, ir-ost- Iy lean, put to it a little cream, season with white and cayenne pep- per, salt, a little nutmeg, and a small piece of shallot chopped as fine as possible : cover with crust, and turn it out of the dish when bak- ed, or bake the crust with a piece of bread to keep it hollow, and warm the mince with a little cream, and pour in. EGG MINCE PIE. Take six eggs, boil them hard, then shred them very small ; take twice the quantity of suet, and chop it very fine ; well wash and pick a pound of currants, shred fine the peel of a lemon, add them with the juice, six spoonfuls of sweet wine, mace, nutmeg, sugar, a very small quantity of salt, orange, lemon, and citron, candied. Cover with a very light paste. LEMON MINCE PTES. Take a large lemon, squeeze the juice from it, and boil the outside till it becomes soft enough to beat to a smash ; put to it three large apples, four ounces of suet, the same of sugar, and half a pound of currants ; add the juice of the lemon, and some candied fruit, the same as for other pics. Make a short crust, and fill the patty-pans in the usual way. MINCE PIES WITHOUT MEAT. Take of currants, apples chopped fine, moist sugar, and suet well chopped, a pound of each ; a quarter of a pound of raisins stoned and chopped small, the juice of four Seville oranges, the juice of two lemons, the rind of one shred fine, nutmeg and mace to suit the palate, and a glass of braudy. Mix all together, put it in a pan, and keep it closely lied up. MUTTON PIE. Cut steaks from a neck or loin of mutton that has hung, beat them, and remove some of the fat, season with salt and pepper, and a little onion ; put a little water at the bottom of the dish and a little paste on the edge, then cover with a moderately thick paste, or raise small pies, and break each bone in two to shorten it, season and cover it over, pinching the edge. When they come out of the oven, pour in- to each a little second stock. 108 HOW TO COOK 7 PORK PIE. Cut a piece of the loin of pork into chops, remove the rind and bone, cat it into pieces, season well with pepper and salt, cover with puff paste, and bake the pie. When ready to be served, put in some cullis, with the essence of two onions mixed with a little mustard. SQJJAB PIE. Cut apples as for other pies, and lay them in rows with mutton chops, shred onions, and sprinkle it among them, and also some su- gar. YORKSHIRE PUDDING. Mix together a spoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and one egg well beaten, add a spoonful of salt and a little ginger grated j put this mixture in a square pan buttered, and when browned by baking under the meat, turn the other side upwards, to be browned also ; serve it cat in pieces, and arranged upon a dish. If you require a richer pad ding, increase the number ot eggs. APPLE DUMPLINGS, Pare a few good-sized baking apples, and roll out some paste, divide it into as many pieces as you have apples, cut two rounds from each, and put an apple under each piece, and put the other over, joiu the edges, tie them in cloths, and boil them. APPLE TART. Take some good baking apples, pare, core, and cut them into small pieces ; place them in a dish lined with puff paste, strew over pounded sugar, cinnamon, mace, nutmeg, cloves, and lemon-peel chopped small, then add a layer of apples, then spice, and so on till the dish is full - ; pour a glass and a half of white wine over the whole, cover with puff paste, and bake it. When done, raise the crust, stir in two ounces of fresh butter, and two eggs well beaten, replace the crust, and serve either hot or cold. RASPBERRY TART. Put some raspberries in a patty-pan lined with thin puff paste, strew in some finely-sifted sugar, cover with puff paste, and bake it ; when done, take off the top, and pour in half a pint of cream, previ- ously mixed with the yolks of two or three eggs, and sweetened with a little sugar ; then return the tart to the oven for five or six minutes. STRAWBERRY TART Pat into a basV> two quarts of the best scarlet strawberries picked, AND sow to :aryk, 109 add half a pint of cold clarified sugar, the same quantity of Madeira, •with the juice of two lemons, mix all well without breaking the straw- berries, and put them into a puff paste previously baked ; keep them very cool. OYSTER PATTIES. Line some small patty-pans with a fine puff paste, put a piece of bread into each, cover with paste, and bake them. While they are baking, take some oysters, beard them, and cut the remainder up into small pieces, place them in a tosser, with a very small portion of grated nutmeg, a very little white pepper and salt, a morsel of lemon peel cut as small as possible, a little cream, aud a little of the oyster liquor ; simmer it a few minutes, then remove the bread from the pat- ties, and put in the mixture. meat patties. The patty-pans should not be too large ; make a puff paste, put a layer at the bottom of the tins, put in forcemeat, and cover with puff paste, bake them a light brown, turn them out. If for a small dinner, five patties, or seven for a large dinner, will suffice for a side dish. RICE PANCAItfiS. To half a pound of rice put two-thirds of a pint of water, boil it to a jelly ; when cold, add to it eight eggs, a pint of cream, a little salt and nutmeg, and half a pound of butter melted ; mix well, adding the butter last, and working it only so much as will make the batter sufficiently thick. iVy them in lard, but employ as little as it is poss* ible to fry them with. FRITTERS Are made of batter the same as pancakes. Drop a small quantity into the pan, have ready apples pared, sliced, and cored, lay them in the batter and fry them ; they may also be made with sliced lemon or currants, the latter is particularly palatable. They should be sent to table upon a folded napkin in the dish ; any sweetmeat or ripe fruit Will make fritters. APPLE FRITTERS. Take two or three large russeting apples, pare them thin, cut them half an inch thick, lay them on a pie-dish, pour brandy over them, and let them lie two hours ; make a thick batter, using two eggs, have clean lard, and make it quite hot ; fry two at a ume, a nice light brown, put them on the back of a sieve on paper, sift pounded sugar oVer them, glaze them with a shovel or salamander ; dish on a napkin. After they are cut in slices, take out the core with a small round cutter. 110 HOW TO COOK, INDIAN CORN CAKES. Mix a quart of Indian meal with a handful of wheat flour, stir in a quart of warmed milk, a tea-spoonful of salt, and two spoonsful of yeast ; stir alternately into the milk, the meal and three well beaten eggs ; when light, bake as buckwheat cakes, on a griddle ; send tLem to the table hot. — Should the batter sour, stir in a little salseratus dissolved in luke»warm water, letting it set half an hour before bak> ing. BEST SPONGE CAKE. Take one coffee-cupful of sugar, and founr eggs ; beat them to a cream ; add a piece of salaeratus as large as a pea dissolved in a tea- spoonful of milk ; also a little nutmeg and essence of lemon ; stir in carefully a cofiee-cup of flour. Bake in a quick oven. A LIGHT CAKE. Take a pint bowl full and a half of sugar, one and a half cups of butter rubbed in two pint bowls of flour, two cups of sour cream, a tea-spoonful of salseratus, table-spoonful of rose water, four eggs well beaten, and a little nutmeg. . COMPOSITION CAKE. Take four cups of flour, four of sugar, two cups of butter, five eggs, half a pint of cream, tea-spoonful of salseratus, spice to suit your taste. Beat all well together, and bake in a butter tin or in cups. INDIAN GRIDDLE CAKE. Take one pint of Indian meal and one cup of flour, a little salt and ginger, a table-spoonful of molases, a tea-spoonful of sakeratus, sour milk enough to make a stifi batter. Ba*ke them on a griddle like buckwheat cakes. COMMON PLUM CAKE. Mix five cups of butter with ten cups of flour five cups of sugar, add six cups stoned rasins, a little cinnamon and mace finely powder* ed, half a cup of good new yeast put into a pint of new milk, warm and mix the dough, let it stand till it is light. POUND CAKE. One pound dried sifted flour, the same of loaf sugar, and the whites of twelve eggs and the yolks of seven. Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar by degrees, then the eggs and flour ; beat it all well together for an hour, mixing a tea spoonful of rose water, a little nutmeg or cinnamon, two cups of cream, and a tea-spoonful of salser- atus. To be baked in a quick oven. AMD HOW TO CARVE, HI TEA CAKES. A quart of Hour, one pint of sour cream, tea-spoonful salaeratus, two cups of molasses, a little cinamon and salt, make a stiff paste, and bake in a moderate oven. BREAKFAST BUTTER CAKES. One quart of sour milk, one tea-spoonful salaeratus, a little salt, one and a half cup of boiled rice, two table-spoonful molasses or half cup of sugar, a little ginger, and flour enough to make a stiff batter. BUCK-WHEAT CAKES. Take one quart of buck- wheat meal, half a cup of new yeast, a tea-spoonful of salaeratus, a little salt and sufficient new milk or cold water to make a thick batter. Put it in a warm place to rise. When it has- risen sufficiently, bake it on a griddle or in a spider. The griddle must be well buttered, and the cakes are better to be small and thin. PLAIN INDIAN CAKES. Take a quart of sifted Indian meal, sprinkle a little salt over it, mix it with scalding water, stirring ; bake on a tin stove oven. In- dian Cake is made with butter-milk, or sour milk, with a little cream or butter rubbed into the meal, and a tea-spoonful of salaera- tus. BUTTER CAKES FOR TEA. Beat two eggs, put them in half pint of milk, and a tea-cup of cream, with half a tea-spoonful of salaeratus dissolved in the cream, a little salt, cinnamon and rose-water if you like, stir in sifted flour till the batter is smooth and thick. Bake them on a griddle or in a pan. Butter the pan well, drop the batter in small round cakes and quite thin. They must be turned and nicely browned. Lay them on a plate with a little butter between each layer. CREAM CAKES. One quart of flour, one pint of cream' a little sour cream, one tea- spoonful of salaeratus dissolved in the sour cream. If the flour is not made sufficiently wet with the above quantity of cream, add more sweet cream. ROLLS. Rub into a pound of flour half a tea-cup full of butter ; add half a tea-cup of sweet yeast, a little salt, and sufficient warm milk to make a stiff dough, cover and put it where it will be kept warm, and it will rise in two hours. Then make into rolls or round cakes. They will bake in a quick oven in fifteen minutes. 112 HOW TO COOK, CUP CAKE. Take one cap of butter, two cups of sugar, three cups of flour, and four eggs. Tea spoonful of salseratus, nutmeg and rose-water. TEA CAEE. To four cups of flour add three cups of sugar, three eggs, one cup of butter, one cup of milk, and one spoonful of dissolved pearlash. INDIAN CAEE. Take three cups of Indian meal, two cups of flour, one half a tea- cup of molasses, a little salt, one tea-spooni'ul of salaeratus, and mix them with cold water. LOAF CAKE. Two pounds of flour, half a pound of sugar, quarter of butter, three eggs, one gill of milk, half a tea-cup sweet emptyings, cinnamon and rose water. COMMON GINGER-BREAD. Take a quart bowlful of flour, and rub into a tea-cup of sweet but- ter, two cups of sugar, three of molasses, tea-cup of cream, tea-spoon- ful salaeratus, ginger to your taste. Make it stiff batter, bake in a quick oven. GINGER-BREAD. Four cups of flour, three eggs, one cup of butter, two of sugar, one of cream, ginger, nutmeg, salaeratus. ARROW-ROOT CUSTARDS. Four eggs, one desert spoonful of arrow-root, one pint of milk sweetened, and spiced to the taste. GINGER SNAPS. Take one pint of molasses, one tea-cup of butter, one spoonful of ginger, and one tea-spoonful of salseratus ; and boil all the ingredi- ents thoroughly ,• when nearly 6old, add as much flour as can be rolled into the mixture. JUMBLES. t Eub to a cream a pound of sugar, and hall a pound of butter ; add eight well beaten eggs, essence of lemon or rose-water to the taste and flour to make the jumbles stifl enough for rolling out. Koll out, in powdered sugar, about half an inch wide and four inches long, and form them into rings by joining the ends. Lay them on flat buttered tins, and bako in a quick oven. AND HOW TO GARVE. 115 CARVING. Ladies ought especially to make carving a study; at their own houses they grace ihe table, and should be enabled to perform the task allotted to them with sufficient skill to prevent remark, or the calling forth of eager proffers of assistance from good-natured visi- tors near, who probably would not present any better claim to a neat performance. Carving presents no difficulties ; it simply requires knowledge. All displays of exertion or violence are in a very bad taste ; for if not proved an evidence of the want of ability on the part of the carver, they present a very strong testimony of the toughness of a joint Lightness of hand and dexterity of management are necesssary,and can only be acquired by practice. The flakes which, in such fish as salmon and cod, are large, should not be broken in serving, for the beauty of the fish is then destroyed, and the appetite for it injured. In addition to the skill in the use of the knife, there is also required another description of knowledge, and that is an acquaintance with the best part of the joint, fowl, or fish being carved. Thus in a haunch of venison the fat, which is a favorite, must be served with each slice ; in the shoulder of mutton there are some delicate cuts in the under part. The breast and wings are the best parts of a fowl and the trail of a woodcock on a toast is the choicest part of the bird. In fish a part of the roe, melt, or liver should accompany the piece of fish served. The list, however, is too numerous to mention here ; and indeed, the knowledge can only be acquired by experience. In large establishments the gross dishes are carved at the buffet by the butler, but in middle society they are placed upon the table. In the following directions, accompanied by diagrams, we have endeavored to be as ex- f)licit as possible ; but while they will prove as landmarks, to the un* nitiated, he will find that practice alone will enable him to carve with skill and facility. Part op a Sirloin of Beef. There are two modes of helping this joint ; either by carving long thin slices from 3 to 4, and assisting a portion of the mar* rowy fat, which is found under- neath the ribs, to each person ; or by cutting thicker slice3 in the direction 1 to 2. When 'sent to table the joint should be kid down on the dish with the surface 2 uppermost 114 HOW TO COOK, Boast Pig. bread sauce and stuffing should accompany it are favorite parts with many people. Sucking Pig. The cook should send a roast pig to table as displayed here, garn- ished with head and ears, carve the joints in the direc- tion shown by the lines in the diagram, then divide the ribs, serve with plenty of sauce ; should one of the joints be too much, it may be separated : An ear and the jaw An Aitch-Bone or Beef. This is a simple joint to carve, but the slices from it must be cut quite even, and of a very moderate thick- ness. When the joint is boiled, before cutting to serve, remove a slice from the whole of the upper part of sufficient thickness, say a quarter of an inch, in order to arrive at the Aitch-Bone. juicy part of the meat at once. Carve from .1 to 2 ; let the slices be moderately thin — not too thin; help fat with the lean in one piece, and give a little additional fat which you will find below 3; the solid fat is at 1, and must be cut in slices horizontally. The round of beef is carved in the same manner. Ham. It is served as plac- ed in the engraving, and £ should come to table orna- mented. Carve from a to b, cutting thin slices slant- ingly, to give a wedge-like appearauce. Those who pre- fer the hock carved at d, in in the same direction as from a to b, then carve from d to c, in thin slices, as indicated Ham. in the diagram. Boiled Tongue. Carve across the tongue, but do not cut through ; keep the slices rather thin, and help the fat from under- neath, AND HOVT TO CARVE, 115 The Sirloin op Beef The under part should first served, and carv- ed as indicated in the engraving-, across the bone. In carving the upper part the same directions should be followed as for the ribs, or in the centre, from a to b, and help- ing the fat from d. Brisket op Beep, must be carved in the direction I and 2 quite down to the bone, after cutting off the outside, which should be about three-quarters of an inch thick. Ribs op Beep are carved similar to the sirloin, commencing at the thin end of the joint, and cutting long slices, so as to assist fat and lean at the same time. Round or Buttock op Beep. — Remove the upper surface in the same manner as for an aitch-bone of beef, carve thin horizontal siicea of fat and lean, as evenly as possible. Tt requires a sharp knife and steady hand to carve it well. Saddle op Mut- ton. The tail end is divided in the en- , graving, and the kidneys skewered under each division: this is a matter of taste, and is not al- . ways done. Carve from a to b in thin slices, help fat from the vertebras on Saddle of Mutton. on both sides of the loin, and then carve crosswise as marked in the engraving, which give.-! you both fat and lean ] help a slice of kidney to those who de- sire it, 116 MOW TO C00&, Leg of Mutton. Leo of Mutton. The tinder or thickest part of the leg should be placed Uppermost, and Carved in slices moderately thin, from B to o. Many per- sons have a taste for the knuckle, and this ques- tion should be asked, and if preferred, should be assisted. When cold' the back of the leg should be placed uppermost, and thus carved; if the cramp bone is requested, and some persona regard it as a dainty, hold the shank with your left hand, and insert your knife at D, passing it round to e, and you will remove it. — ' — Hibs of Beef. There are two modes of carving this joint j the first, which is now becoming common, and is easy to an amateur car* ver, is to cut across the bone commencing in the centre, and serving fat from a, as marked in the engraving of the sirloin, or it should be carved in slices from'A to c, commencing either in the centre of the joint or at the sides,. Occasionally the bones are removed, and the meat formed into a fillet ; it should then be carved as a round of beef, The Loin of Mutton if small, should be carved in chops, begin- ning with the outer chop ; if large, carve slices the whole length. A neat way is to run the knife along the chine bone and under the meat along the ribs, it may then be cut in slices as shown in the engraving of the saddle of mutton ; and by this process fat and lean are served together ; your knife should be very sharp and it should be done cleverly. Neck of Mutton, if the scrag and chine bone are removed, is Carved in the direction of the bones. The Scrag of Mutton should be separated from the ribs of the neck, and when roasted the bone assisted with the meat. Haunoh of Mutton is carved as haunch of venison. Roast Fowl. This operation is a nice and skilful one to perform ; it re* quires both observation and practice* Insert the knife between the legs and the side, press back the leg with the blade of the knife, and the joint will ^disclose itself : if young it will part, ^HT" ^ but at best, if judiciously managed, will require but a nick where ths AND HOW TO CARV. lit Joints unite. Remove your wing from d to b, cut through and lay it back as with the leg, separating the joint with the edge of your knife, remove the merrythought and neck bones next, this you will accom- plish by inserting the knife and forcing it under the bones, raise it and it will readily seperate from the breast. You will divide 'the breast from the body by cutting through the small ribs down to the vent, turn the back uppermost, now put your knife into about the centre between the neck and rump, raise the lower part firmly yet gently, it will easily seperate, turn the neck or rump from you, take off the side bones and the fowl is carved. In separating the thigh from the drumstick, you must insert the knife exactly at the joint, as we have indicated in the engraving ; this however will be found to require practice, for the joint must be accurately hit, or else much difficulty will be experienced in getting the parts asunder. There is no difference in carving roast and boiled fowls, if full grown ; but in a very young fowl when roasted, the breast is served whole. The wings and breast are in the highest favour, but the leg of a young fowl is an excellent part. Capons when very fine and roasted, should lave slices carved from the breast. Geese. Follow with your knife the lines marked in the engraving, a to b, and cut slices, then remove the wing, and if the party be large, the legs must , also be removed, and here the disjointer ' will again prove serviceable. The stufl- ing, as in the turkey, will be obtained by making an insertion at the apron c. Guinea Fowl are carved in the same manner. Quails, Landrail, Wheatears, Larks, and all small birds are served whole. Grouse and Plover are carved as partridges. Snipe and Woodcock are divided into two parts ; the trail being served on a toast. Fish should never be carved with steel ; assisting requires more care than knowledge ; the prin- cipal caution is to avoid breaking the flakes. In carving a piece of salmon as here engraved, cut thin slices, as from a to b, and help with it pieces of the belly in the direction marked from c to d, the best flavored is the upper o; thick part. 118 HOW TO COOK, Cod's Head and Shoulders. Carry the knife from 1 to 2, and then along the line to 5, help slices accompanied by some of the sound, which is to be found lining the back, and which you may obtain by passing the knife under the back-bone at 5 ; serve also a piece of liver- Many choice parts lie in this dish, and by inquiry you will soon ascertain which they Cod's Head. are. Haddock. It is dressed whole, unless unusually large. When sent to table it is split its whole length, and served one-half the head to the tail of the other part ; it is carved across. Mackerel should always be sent to table head to tail, divide the meat from the bone by cutting down the back lengthwise, from 1 to 2, upper pans the best. All small fish such as herrings, smelts, larie L«essalre, The Mexican's Bride, Books by Popular Authors. The Royal Favorite, paper, 50 The Rival Beauties Richard of York, Romance of War ' Herbert " The Flying Cloud, " Forecastle Yarns, " The Patriot Cruiser, " The Maid of the Ranche,. " The Maniac's Secret, " New American Joker, — " Pastry Cook's and Confec- tioner's Assistant " How to Cook and How to Carve,; " Hoiue Truths for Younp Wives " JLetter Writing Made Easy,.. " New Song Books, IUustrated. 50 1 Charley Fox's Ethiopian Song 50 Book, 13 G»-o. Christy's Ethiopian Joke Book, No. 2 13 Charley Fox's Hi ion Song B'k, 13 Geo. Christy's Ethiopian Joke Book, No. 3 13 Christy's Clown Joke Book, . . 13 &3F" Any Work in this List will be sent to any place, free of postage, on receipt of price. Address as above. 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