PRISCILLA JUNIORS- CROCHET BOOK A Lesson Book Children Published bij The Priscilla Publishing Co. Boston,Mass. ^to^ Priscilla Juniors' Embroidery Outfit This Embroidery Outfit is made up specially for little girls. It is remarkably complete, containing practically everything that little folks will need for embroidery. The outfit is of an exceptionally high quality, price considered, and we believe it will give perfect satisfaction. The Complete Outfit Contains 1 5-inch stamped Doily for Doll's Table . . $.08 1 Skein Embroidery Cotton 03 1 Instruction Sheet for working 05 1 Aluminum Thimble 05 1 Bone Stiletto 10 1 Strawberry Emery 10 1 Needlebook, containing 5 Embroidery Needles, assorted sizes ....... .04 1 4-inch Embroidery Hoop . . . . . .10 1 Pair Embroidery Scissors .25 Regular Price, $.80 Special Price, Only 50^ Postpaid This Embroidery Outfit is sent in a special fitted box which is nice enough for every little girl to save and use as her very own "Work Box." The Priscilla Needlework Company 87 Broad Street Boston, Mass. PMSCILLA JUNIORS' CROCHET BOOK Models and Directions for Crocheting adapted to Girls from 8 t© 12 years Belle Robinson Price, 15 PUIBLISHED BY THE PMSCILLA PUBLISHING CO, BOSTOM, MASS. Copyright. 1914. by The Priscilla Publishing Company Trade Mark Reg. U. S. Patent Office Entered at Stationers' Hall. London All TTes^o Louise 2 JC12 1914 ©CI.A386246 A Letter About Crochet Y dear Niece Louise: Ever since you sent to your Grandmother, last Christmas, some of your first crocheting, I have thought a Httle girl eight years old should have some more help if she could crochet as well as that. Now, if I could write the directions for some more nice things to be crocheted, that would help you ; and if we could have it printed it would help ever so many more little girls. Threads and Crochet Needles or Hooks. — There are so many different threads used in crocheting, wool, cotton, silk, and linen. With wool, as in the Cap. No. 514; Reins, No. 515; Afghan, No. 503; and Pincushion, No. 513. A medium-size bone crochet-hook is used. A hook of rubber or amber will answer the same purpose. But for cotton or silk or linen a steel crochet-hook is better. These are of many sizes, from No. i (a very large hook, almost as large as a medium-size bone hook) to No. 14, which is very fine and perhaps you will not need to use anything so fine for some time. Number 8 or No. 10 will be fine enough to do the work that is given here. The cotton used for the 504, and other bits of II, for the Luncheon •small Doily, No. 512, is chet cotton called Cor- 507, and Doll's Cushion- Doll's Book Satchel, No. w^arp. The J^ace Cloths, and the Plate Protector, soft knitting cotton, of white flannel, No. crochet silk and is somer than any picture the smaller medallions of linen crochet thread, a soft, loosely twisted Fig. I. Chain Stitch Towel Insertion, No. Filet .Crochet on page Napkin, No. 516, and the of tightly twisted cro- donnet. The Doily, No. cover. No. 519, and 518, are made of carpet Nos. 500, 501, and 502, No. 505, are made of The Baby Doll's Blanket 506, is edged w i t h really very much hand- can express. Some of on pages 14 and 15 are The Bib, No. 520, is of crochet cotton. Fig. 2. Slip Stitch Fig. 3. Double Crochet Stitches. — You will need to know the names of the different stitches .used in crocheting; and if you learn .the proper names you will be able to work so much more intelligently. There are people who know how to make stitches but do not know the names they should be called. Their work may b e very good and look well but it is so much better to know what you are making. Chain stitch, slip stitch, double crochet, treble crochet, double treble, and afghan stitch are all that you will need to learn for the present. The slipper stitch. Fig. 17, is only a special way of making double crochet. When you are sure of these names we will give the letters that stand for each name. In this way : Chain stitch is meant by the letters *'ch" ; slip stitch by ''si" ; double cro- chet by "d" ; treble crochet by "t" ; double treble by 'VI t". The whole name is written out for afghan and slipper stitches. Let us talk about the first five stitches. You will see at Fig. i on page 3, the Chain Stitch started. You will easily un- derstand how the Fig. 4. Position of Hands 4 Fig. 5. Treble Crochet Fig. 6. Double Treble needle or hook, first through a loop, is caught under the thread over your left fore- finger, and catching a loop there it is pulled back through the loop on the nee- dle. This is repeated as long as the chain is to be made. It shows very clearly in Fig. 4 where you have the thread ready to draw through the loop or stitch. In fact your position of hands is very good there as well as in the frontispiece and shows you understand that very well. It is such a help towards making it plain for the other girls. With the crochet-needle in the right hand, the thread coming up over the left forefinger and the piece held be- tween the fingers of both hands, you are ready to work. If one would rather, the thread may be wrapped once around the lit- tle finger of the left hand, under the next two fingers, and up over the forefinger. Some people have been known to coil the thread four or five times around the forefinger, and then the needle scrapes the skin off the finger, but that is not at all the best way. Holding the forefinger at a little distance as you have it is so much better. Slip Stitch, Fig. 2, page 4, is made with the needle in the loop, a loop pulled through the work and through the loop on the needle. In the model a chain is made and a row of slip stitches is made, one in each chain. Very often a single slip stitch is made to fasten tightly, or it may be made over other work to carry the thread along. And be sure to remember that "si" means slip stitch. Double Crochet, Fig. 3, is made with the needle in the loop, a loop drawn through the work and another loop drawn through both. This last loop shows clearly in the model, where it is 5 No. 500. Face Cloth drawn through both the others but not yet drawn tight. The difference you see between this and shp stitch is, the left loop in Fig. 2 is drawn through the right loop, in double crochet an- other loop is drawn through both. A n d "d" stands for double crochet. Treble Crochet, Fig. 5, is made with the nee- dle in the loop, another loop over the needle, a loop drawn through the work (making three loops on the needle), then a loop is drawn through two on the needle, leaving two loops on the needle ; another loop drawn through these two finishes the treble : "t" always stands for treble, ^^l^en starting a row of trebles it is necessary to make three chain stitches to bring the needle to the top of the row. Double Treble Crochet, Fig. 6, is made with the needle in the loop, two loops over the needle, one loop drawn through the work, when there will be four loops on the needle ; with one loop through two, one loop through two, and finally one loop through the last two finishes the double treble cro- chet ; "d t" stands for double treble. When a row of double trebles is started, four chain stitches are necessary to bring the needle to the top of the row. Face-Cloth. — On this page, my dear Louise, you will see No. 500, a face-cloth like No. 501. Face Cloth the one you sent to your Grandmother. It is of Turk- ish toweling and is finished with a crocheted edge of bUie 4S 4 » i • I / # t til itthf J J , f/f ^ ' i * / J J > i 1 u / > / i M , , , ^ J .v; Iff I, itii No. 502. Face Cloth Pearl cotton No. 5. The work is finished in one row, and done with a steel crochet- needle No. 8. The edge is made of * i d into the cloth, I ch *. When you see the little stars before and after any directions, whether long or short, the work directed is to be repeated once, or more times. In this case we will add the direction. Repeat from '^ to * all around. Face-Cloth. — The face-cloth, No. 501, is of crocheting en- tirely. It is made of soft knitting cotton, No. 10, and a medium- size bone needle is used for the body of the cloth. The stitch is Slipper Stitch. Make a chain of 55 stitches, turn, skip one chain, make i d in each of the other chain stitches. 2d ro:i — Turn with one chain, and make i d in each stitch, taking up only the back loop, or loop farthest from you. jd row — Like the 2d row, and all the rest are made working back and forth like the 2d row. Crocheting once across is called a rozv, but it takes two rows to make a nh. On page 21, with the pair of boy's slippers, is a model of slipper stitch (Fig. 17), that may be of use. When twenty-nine ribs are finished, Fig. 7. Trebles or the cloth is about square, then the edge is crocheted. That is made of blue Pearl cot- ton and a steel crochet-needle, No. 8, is used. * One d into the cloth, 2 ch '•\ Repeat from "^ to ^ all around. This cloth meas- ures about 9 inches. Face-Cloth, No. 502, is another face-cloth entirely of cro- cheting. The thread is a soft knitting cotton, No. 14, and the No. 503. Afghan 8 TT " - T - LP ^ jf // UM .J'A^A 1 bU !• •• '^_Wr . ^ • • •• 2 C y J. . t>^/n p/l A '/{A ^y^i " " ■r —^^1^1^^ ~H~ B^^^^^B ~lHHH ~B~^^^^^i needle is a rather small bone needle. Make a chain of 6o, turn and make i t in the fourth stitch from the needle, i t in each chain. 2d rozi' — Turn, ch 3, i t in each ch. All the other rows are made like the second. Figure 7 gives a very good picture of this stitch, but that model is made of No. 2 Cordonnet in- stead of the soft knitting cotton. There are 30 rows in this cloth and it measures about 10 inches square. It could be made larger or smaller if one wanted, by making the first chain longer or shorter, and making enough rows to have it square. The edge is in two rows. 1st row — * One d into the cloth, 2 ch *. Repeat from "^ to ''' all around. 2d rozv — "^ Two d over ch, 3 ch, 2 d over next ch, 3 ch '^. Repeat from * to * all around. This edge is of blue Pearl cot- ton No. 5, and is made with a steel cro- chet-needle No. 3. Afghan for Doll's Carriage. — You may want, some day, to make an afghan 'for your doll's carriage, and here is a very pretty one to copy, No. 503. It is made in five stripes, three of them are of a lovely blue, without any embroidery, and two stripes are of white with a design of roses embroidered in cross-stitch. The edge has five rows of work, one of blue, one of white, and one of blue, another of white and the last one of blue. The afghan measures twen- ty-four inches long and twenty inches wide; by add- ing a few more rows to the border it would be large Fig. 9. Block Pattern for Afghan • Old Rose / Light Rose m Light Green Color Scheme of Fig. 9 Fig. 8. Afghan Stitch enough for a baby's carriage. It is made of Germantown (fourfold), and requires two and one-half skeins white German- tow^n, two skeins blue, one skein old /ose, one skein light old rose, one skein light dull green. The two shades of old rose and the green are used for the cross-stitch on the white stripes. A bone or rubber afghan needle of medium size is needed ; this needle should measure one-half inch around and is of the same thickness throughout the whole length. And now since you have learned the other stitches, afghan stitch is the next and it is not at all hard. To make the blue stripes, make a chain of 1 8 stitches, turn, skip I ch St. and draw a loop through each of the other chain stitches. Then you will have all the loops on the needle at once, as the three loops stand up at the right of Fig. 8. That is called the first row of afghan stitch, the second row is done by drawing a loop through the last on No. 504. Towel IIMiliilBililil l l Fig. 10. Block Pattern of No. 504 10 the needle, then a loop through two, through two each time until only one remains on the needle. You will notice that 9 stitches or loops are crocheted off in the model, Fig. 8, and three more are to be crocheted oft' in the same way. We do not turn afghan stitch around, it is all done from the right side, back and forth. Now when we have finished two rows or one rib, and only one stitch remains on the needle, we draw the loops again through each of the stitches that stand upright, until they are all on the needle again; then crochet them off as before and repeat these two rows as long as needed. The three blue stripes are 18 stitches w^de and 95 ribs long. The two white stripes are 22 stitches wide and 95 ribs long. When the white stripes are finished, they are to be cross- Fig. II. Filet Crochet Insertions II Border, ist rozc- blue, * I d into the afghan, 2 ch *. Repeat from * to *. At the corners, the doubles should be close enough together that it will lie flat. 2d rozv — With white, 3 t over each chain, jj rozi' — With blue, like first, making the d after every group of 3 t and 2 ch between doubles. ^tJi row — White, like 2d. 5//? rozv — Blue, like 3d. Towel. — If vou would stitched with the pattern, Fig. 9. Begin at the top and use the pattern as many times as needed to fill Uie stripe. It was used three times here and the rose and a few leaves finish at the lower end. Where there are round dots in the pattern you should use old rose, where there is the line it should be light old rose, and the solid block should be made of green. The Priscilla Cross Stitch Book for Juniors shows very clearly how to do the cross-stitch. In the afghan work each block is be- tween the lines of stitches, only one of these upright stitches must be taken for each block, it must always be the line at the same side, that is always the left-hand stitch or always the right-hand stitch, through the whole piece of work. After the five stripes are finished the edges are crocheted together on the wrong side, with double crochet of white. When they are joined it is ready for the border. -W'ith No. 505. Plate Protector No. 506. Doll's Blanket with Silk Edge like to make a nice birth- day present for your Mother nothing could be better than a Httle towel like this one. No. 504. It is made of huckaback toweling, 1 5 inches wide, and is 2^ inches long. An insertion 13 meshes wide of Filet Crochet trims one end, and a narrow in- sertion, 5 meshes wide, trims the other end. A hem 3 inches wide is cut from each end of the linen and folded lengthwise, the edges folded in and basted ready to overcast to the insertion. Then a very narrow hem is made in each end of the towel. To make the insertion of filet crochet is not difficult, in fact, filet crochet is the very easiest crochet- ing that can be done. It is nothing but trebles and chains. For the narrow insertion make a chain of 16 and 5 more chain to turn, then make a treble in the ninth stitch from the needle, make 2 ch, i t in the third chain below (always skip 2 ch). Three times more make 2 ch and i t and the first row of open meshes is fin- ished. You will see that on the opposite page. Fig. 11, A. For the second row make 5 ch to turn and i t in the top of the next t below, then since the next mesh is a solid mesh, make 2 t over the chain and I t over the next t, then make 3 more open meshes, ^d rozv — Five open meshes. 4th rozv 13 Fig. 13. Detail of No. 506 No. 507. Doily I — Three open meshes, I soHd mesh, i open mesh, ^th roiv — Five open meshes. 6th rozv — Like 2d. Re- peat the 2d, 3d, 4th, and 5th rows as long as needed. To make the wi- der insertion, 13 meshes wide, make a chain of 45, turn, and make i t in the ninth stitch from the nee- dle. Make three rows all of open meshes, meshes. Then there is a little "snowflake" design in solid Five rows complete one snowflake, the first of these five rows is: Five open, i solid, i. open, i solid, 5 open. 2d rozv — Four open, 2 solid, i open, 2 solid, 4 open, ^d row — Six open, I solid, 6 open. 4th rozv — Four open, 2 solid, i open, 2 solid, 4 open, ^th rozc — Five open, i solid, i open, i solid, 5 open. Then there are six row^s of open meshes and another five rows with a snowflake. Five rows of open and then begin the word "Mother". By carefully following the first row (up and down) of the letter "jM" you can easily tell which meshes are open and which are solid. And where there are a number of solid meshes make 2 t over each chain and i t over the top of the t below. It is better to catch under both threads at the top of the treble than un- der a single thread. When the whole word is finished there are 5 rows of open, 5 rows with I snowflake, 6 rows of open, and 5 rows again with i snowflake, and 3 rows of open at the end. A row of trebles is 14 No. 508. Medallion No. 509. Medallion made across each end of the insertion and a row of doubles over the trebles ; this makes a good solid end to the crocheting. If your linen is a different width you could add enough open rows to each end to make it the right length. Figure 11, page 11, gives three other insertions, B, C, and D, that can be made for towels or pillow-cases. Insertion B is 9 meshes wide and started in this way : Chain 33, t in ninth stitch from needle ; the first row is 9 open meshes, 2d rozv — One open, 7 solid, I open. The pattern can be followed back and forth, always mak- ing 5 ch to turn. Insertion C is 5 meshes wide; ch 21, t in 9th from nee- dle. 1st rozv — Five open meshes. 2d rozc — Two open, i solid, 2 open. ^d rozv — One open, i solid, i open, i solid, i open. 4th rozv — Two open, i solid, 2 open. Three rows of open meshes, then repeat the 2d, 3d, and 4th rows. Three open rows and repeat the 2d, 3d, and 4th again. Insertion D is 5 meshes wide; ch 21, t in ninth stitch from needle. Tst rozv — Five open. 2d rozv — One open, i solid, 3 open, ^d rozv — Two open, i solid, 2 open. 4th rozv — Three open, i solid, I open. Repeat these four rows as long as desired. Figure 12 on page 12 is an in- sertion 7 meshes wide and is started with ch of 2"/, t in 9th from needle. ist rozv — Seven open meshes. The next 5 rows have the snowflake of the towel on page 10, with a margin of No. 510. Medallion No. 511. Medallion 15 No. 512. Doily but one open mesh each side instead of four ^pen meshes. Plate Protector, No. 505, page 12. — A very useful thing is this Plate Protector, that any little girl could make for her Mother's fine china. It is a doily made of soft knitting cotton No. 8, and crocheted with a me- dium size bone needle. A half dozen, or if your patience holds out, a dozen of these to place between fine plates would surely delight Mother's heart. Four ribbons or tapes, each a yard long, could be fastened together under the centre of the lower one and laced up through the loops at each corner; then the plates could be slipped in between the doilies. This far our crocheting has been all in straight lines, but now we have a round doily, No. 505. Make a chain of 8 stitches, join in a ring with a slip stitch in the first chain, ist round — ]\Iake 3 ch and 19 trebles around the ring. Join with a si in the third of the 3 ch. The 3 ch count as one of the trebles and that makes 20 all around. Jci round — Five ch, * i d t in the ist t below, i ch '■•. Repeat from * to * until there are 20 altogether, then join with a si in the 4th of the 5 ch. jd round — Four ch, i d t over i ch, i ch, * 2 d t over next ch, I ch *. Repeat from '•' to * until there are 20 pairs of d t, join with si. 4tJi round — Four ch, 2 d t over ch, i ch, "^^ 3 d t over next ch, i ch ''\ Repeat until there are twenty groups of 3 d t, join with a si. The next two rounds make the border, but if a larger doily is needed, make another round with 4 d t in a group and I ch between, then add the border. The border might be of a color, ist round of border — Chain 8, join with d after 16 No. 513. Pincushion the next group, * ch 4, join with d after the next group *. Repeat from '-^ to * until there are four chains of 4, then make from the first of. this round three more times. 2d round — Cover each chain of 8 with 10 d, each ch of 4 with 6 d. This doily measures six and one-half inches across ; if it is made one round larger, then, for the border make chains of 10 and 5 and cover with doubles. Blanket for Baby Doll. — The picture of this dear little blanket, No. 506, on page 13, cannot show the beauty of the cloth and crocheting, but the detail of the work makes it quite clear. It is made of a twenty-five-inch square of silk-warp flannel, and the border is crocheted of heavy crochet silk in light blue. The work is done in two rows and a No. 8 steel crochet-needle is used. 1st rozi' — * One d into the cloth, 2 ch *. Repeat all around and fasten with a si. 2d rozc — * Three ch, 2 t over 1st ch below, i d into the 2d ch, 3 ch, 2 t over same ch with the double *. Repeat from * to * all around. Doily. — This simple little doily. No. 507, is nearly five inches across; it is made of carpet warp and crochet-needle No. 5. Chain 6, join with a si in ist st, making a ring, isf round — Three ch, 11 t in ring, join with si. 2d round — Chain 5, i t over each t, and i ch between, ^d round — Chain 5, * 2 t (i ch be- tween) over It, I ch, i t over t, i ch *. Repeat around and join with si. 4th round — Chain 5, * 4 t between 2 t, ch 2, i t over t, 2 ch, 4 t between 2 t, 2 ch *. Repeat around and join v^ith si. jth round — Make 2 more t to each shell and 3 ch be- 17 No. 514. Cap tween shell and t. 6th round — Make the shell of 8 t with I ch between the 4th and 5th, and 3 ch between shell and t. ytli round — Shell of 10 t with 2 ch between the 5th and 6th t, and 4 ch between shell and t. 8th round — Eight ch^ ■' shell of 12 t, 5 ch, I t in t, 5 ch ■^. Repeat from * to '^ Medallion. — This design, Xo. 508, and the following three medallions are made with centres of Battenberg rings. A ring measuring about three-quarters of an inch is used with linen spool thread No. 60 and No. 8 crochet-needle. These rings usually have about 40 stitches around and we crochet into each stitch, ist round — " Four d into 4 stitches of the ring, 8 ch '^. Repeat this until there are nine loops of ch, when making the tenth loop ch 6 and make I t into the ist d, then the needle will be in place to commence the second round. 2d round — Alake i d, 8 t, I d over each ch, and fasten the thread. Medallion.— This medallion, Xo. 509, is made of X^o. 30 Cor- donnet and X^o. 9 crochet-needle, with ring for centre. Make a round of d, if it counts thirty-two it will make the eight points. 2d round ■ — One d in each d. Sd round — * Four d No. 515. Reins with Bells Fig. 15. Pattern for No. 515 Fig. 14. Edwin and the Little Boy over 4 d, ch 7, skip i ch and make 6 d in the other 6 ch '^. Make from =^ to * 8 times. 4th round — SHp stitch across 4 d 19 No. 516. Luncheon Napkin and up I ch, make 5 d, i ch, 5 d around the other points, and 3 ch between points, f^tli round ■ — sup stitch over i d, 3 d in next 3 d, 2 d in d at point, 3 d in next 3 d, 3 ch. Repeat around. These medallions will serve a variety of purposes; any one could be used for the centre of a larger piece of crocheting and save work starting a centre. Rows of them could be crocheted together for an insertion, and a heading made along each side ; or pretty lace could be made. Medallion, No. 510, is much like No. 508. It is made of heavy linen crochet thread about No. 8, and No. 8 crochet-nee- dle. 1st round — Thirty-six d into the lace ring. 2d round — One d into each d. J J round — One d into i d, 5 ch (skip i d below), 2 d in 2 d. Repeat. 4th round — One d, 6 t, i d over each chain of five. Medallion, No. 511. — With the same thread and needle as No. 510, make ^ 3 d over 3 stitches of a ring, 4 ch, 3 d *, then make 2 ch and take up another ring and make from ''= to * on the second ring without breaking the thread, 2 ch and the same on a third ring, 2 ch and the same on a fourth ring. Then with 2 ch join with si to ist d made. This will join the rings in the centre fourth ring and make 4 d (around outside the ring), 4 ch, 4 d, 7 ch, 4 d, 4 ch, 4 d, 7 ch, 4 d, 4 ch, 4 d, 7 ch, 4 d, 4 ch, 4 d. This brings the work entirely around one ring. Make 2 ch and Without breaking the thread make 2 ch back to the x^^^-s ^y^^i :r7^:.'\ ..Trt . ^^ • ^ jl Fig. 16. Detail of No. 5i( 20 crochet in this way around each of the other three rings. Fasten the thread and begin, for the border, at one of the corner loops of 9 ch, I d in -ch, next ch, I loop. long loop, 7 d in next lon< 9 ch, I d 517. Boy's Slippers in loop at corner *. From * to '•' is to be made along each side. The second round of the border is i d in each ch, 3 d in each corner stitch, jd round — ''' Four d, 4 ch '•'. Repeat around. Doily. — This doily. No. 512, measures four and one-half inches across, and is made of Xo. 30 Cordonnet, with a No. 9 crochet-needle. Chain 6, join in a ring, rst round — Five ch, i t, '•' 2 ch, I t '^ Repeat from '•' to * six more times, 2 ch, join with si. 2d round — Three ch, i t over ch, 2 ch, 2 t over same ch, * 2 t over next ch, 2 ch, 2 t over same ch *. Repeat from '<' to "^ over each ch and join with si. j:d round — Slip stitch across 2 t, 3 ch, I t over ch below, 2 ch, 2 t over same ch. 2 ch, make the shell of 2 t, 2 ch, 2 t, over each ch below and 2 ch betw^een shells. 4tJi round — Three ch, i t in ch below\ 2 ch, 2 t in same ch, make the shell of 2 t, 2 ch, 2 t over each ch below, that is, over the shells and between shells, but no chain between shells. ^tJi round — Like 4th, except 3 ch in the shell. 6tJi round — Four d over ch of 3, 9 ch. Repeat, /th round — * Two d over 2d and 3d of 4 d, 5 ch, 4 t over 9 ch, 5 ch *. Repeat around. 8fli round — Slip stitch over the 5 ch, * 4 d over 4 t, 9 ch *. oth round — * Two d over 2(1 and 3d d, 5 cli, 4 t over 9 ch, 5 ch *. Repeat. lOtJi round — Slip stitch over 5 ch, * 2 d, 3 ch, 2 d, * over 4 t, 9 ch. nth round — Three ch, 7 t over 3 ch, 4 ch, si in 5th st of 9, 4 ch, '^ 8 t over ch, 4 ch, si in 5th st, 4 ch *. Repeat from -^ to * all around. 12th round — * One d in 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th t with 5 ch between, 6 ch '^. Doll's Pincushion, No. 513. — When the afghan for DolFs Carriage, No. 503, is finished there will be left some little balls of each color, and these w^ould make a pincushion like this. The top is of white, the bottom of blue, and the pattern of cross- stitch (used in the afghan) is of two shades of old rose and dull light green, the edge is of light old rose. ^lake two pieces of afehan stitch, one ©f white and one of blue, 22 stitches afghan w4de and 16 ribs Ions:. Remember one ffffffmffWfffff^ mff 1 A A A » A « a A A » A 9 nit A 11 » A 1 A fll A A i A A A A A A AAA A A A A • A^l 1 A A A AAA! A A m A k A A ^ A A tLkM No. 518. Satchel rib of afghan stitch is two rows of work, — taking up the loops and working back, cro- cheting off the loops. Beginning a t the top, cross-stitch as much of the pattern as the white piece will hold. With white, crochet the top and bottom together with double cro- chet around three sides, and on the fourth side cro- chet into the top only. The second row of the edge is of light old rose, -^' I d, 3 ch "^S join- 22 ing in every third stitch. Fill the cushion with soft wool, yarn that has been raveled out, or something of that sort, and close the open side by overcasting. Neapolitan Cap. — This cap. No. 514 on page 18, is the one which Edwin wears in Fig. 14 on page 19. It is made of fawn- colored Saxony (three-t".:read ), and requires two skeins of fawn color and enough white to make six rounds. A small bone or amber crochet-hook is used. Begin with fawn color, ch 137, make a treble into the 4th st from the needle, i t into every st of the ch, and join in a ring when making the last t. Make seven more rounds like the first, joining the last st of each round with a si to the ist st ; ch 3 to start every round. Make thirteen rounds of double crochet. Chain only one to start the new round. Now we make 2 rounds of white, in double crochet, 3 rounds of fawn, 2 rounds of white. W h e n making the second of the 2 rounds of white, fold up the hem of treble crochet and catch that edge with the round of white. Three rounds of fawn, 2 rounds of white, and 3 rounds of fawn color all in double crochet. The rest of the cap is made of 30 rounds of treble crochet, all of fawn. In the 2d, 4th, 8th, and 13th rounds it is narrowed in this way: Skip one stitch after every ten stitches all around. Gather to a point and finish with a tassel. To make this tassel, wind the Saxony (fawn color) around a four-inch card forty times, chain six inches and put the chain through one end of the loops ; tie tightly, and cut the other end of the loops. Tie around the head of the tassel and run the chain to the inside 23 Fig. 18. Detail of No. 518 before fastening the gathered top ; this is a pretty finish. Reins with Bells. — One skein of tan Germantown and one skein of hght blue, 12 bells, and medium bone or amber afghan needle are required for this harness, No. 515, which the little boy wears, at Fig. 14 on page 19. Make a strip of afghan stitch 11 stitches wide and about 65 inches long of the tan. Four inches from one end take up 13 stitches along the edge and make afghan stitch 7 inches long. This makes the breast band. Crochet the last row of this band to the same edge of the long strip, the same distance (four inches) from the other end. After cross-stitching with blue across the band and up over the shoulders (see pattern Fig. 15), turn the ends and sew back to the long band, making an armhole twelve inches around. Crochet around all the edges with blue, '■' i d, i ch *. Sew six bells along the lower edge of the front and three bells back of each shoulder; these will look pretty and jingle merrily. Lunch- eon Napkin. — This very pretty edge is a good finish for a Lunch- eon Napkin, No. 516, but it may be used for m any other purposes, around the edge of a flat collar, or in very fi n e thread it would be suit- a b 1 e for a h a n d k e r- ■^^^ No. 519. Cushion Cover 24 Fig. 19. Block Pattern of No. 519 chief. It is made of No. 50 Cordonnet, with a No. 9 cro- chet-needle. For the napkin, a twelve- inch square of linen is to be very nar- rowly hemmed, or have the edge rolled and the crocheting done over the rolled edge. There are four rows of crocheting. The first is double crochet into the linen^ with 3 ch between the d. About 7 d to an inch spaces it very well. 2d rozc — Fasten thread in ch of 3, ch 3, i t into next ch of 3, * ch 5, thread over hook twice, hook in next ch of 3, draw thread through ch, draw thread through two loops, again draw thread through two loops, leaving two on hook, thread over hook once, hook through next ch of three, draw thread through two loops, draw thread through remaining three loops *. Re- peat from ■" to '■' all around. \\'iden at the corners as seen in Fig. 16. ^d rozc — Fasten thread between 2 ch of 5, ch 8, i t into the same place, * i t into the end of next ch of 5, ch 5, i t into same place *. Repeat from * to * all around. 4th rozv — Start in the loop between 2 ch, * ch 3, i t into middle stitch of I St ch, ch 5, I t into the same place, ch 3, si into the loop at the end of the chain *. Repeat from ^ to * all around. Boy's Slippers. — When Little Brother needs a new pair of slippers these shown in No. 517 would be very easy to make for him; the soles are No. 12 and that would be a good size for Fig. 20. Edge of Cushion Cover No. 519 25 a boy six years old. The materials needed are: One pair of slipper soles No. 12; i hank or 2 balls gray Pearl cotton No. 3; I skein dark blue Germantown (fourfold) ; and crochet-needle No. 3 or 5. The stitch is slipper stitch like that used in the face- cloth, No. 501, on page 6. Double crochet back and forth, always taking up the back loop of the stitch whether on the right side or wrong side. The little model, Fig. 17, on this page shows the stitch. To make the slipper : Chain 7 (leaving two inches of thread at the first), turn, skip I, 5 d in the next 5 ch, 3 d in the last ch stitch ; this makes the point of the toe, then working on around the other side of the chain, make 5 d in the 5 ch. Now we are at the sole again, the point of the toe is at the two-inch thread. Chain i, turn (chain i every time the turn is made at the sole), make I d in each stitch all the way around the point, taking up the back loop always. There will be now 13 stitches around both sides. Turn, ch I, 6 d in 6 stitches, 3 d in the 7th stitch at the point, and 6 d in 6 stitches down the other side. \\^orking around and back, making i ch at each turn, and every other row (on the right side) make 3 d in the stitch at the point. The row that is cro- cheted from the wrong side is not widened. Two rows make a rib, and when there are 16 ribs crochet only the first 18 stitches, turning with i ch at top and at sole, and without any widen- 26 No. 520. Crocheted Bib Fig. 21. Crocheted Edge (one row) ing. T w e n ty-four ribs are made and the end is sewed to the other side of the front part of the sHpper. After the top is sewed to the sole, crochet around the top with * I d, 2 ch, * repeated around. This row is made of gray cotton like the slipper. Then one row of treble crochet of dark blue Germantown is made, with 3 t over each chain. Doll's Book Satchel. — This Book Satchel, No. 518, is a good size for a big doll, being seven and one - quarter inches wide and six and one-half inch- e s deep. Nearly twice the measure of this each way would be right for a bag big enough for little Brother when he starts to school, as he surely will next fall when he is six years old. This is made with a No. 5 crochet-needle, of carpet warp in three colors : Arabian or gray, blue, and green. A row of green each side of the blue makes the stripe; the blue looks almost like gray in the illustration. Fig. 22. Crocheted Edge (one row) The mod- Fig. 23. Crocheted Edge (one row) 27 el, Fig. 1 8 on page 23 will help us to understand the start- ing at the bottom. Chain 61, turn, ist rozv — One d in fourth stitch, I d in each except last 3 stitches,^ si in last stitch. This makes a loop of 3 ch at each end. ist round — Chain 8, join (back to the right as you see in Fig. 18) with si in 3d stitch, 3 d up over the ch, * ch 5, join with si, 3 d over ch '^. Repeat from "^ to * until the loop of 3 ch is reached, make 3 meshes in the loop and work on around the other side of the chain, putting 3 meshes in the loop at the beginning of the chain. This round seems to go backward but it is not hard to do. When making the 3 d over the last chain, hold the first chain with the last and make 3 d over both together. Then there should be 42 meshes all around. ♦The 2d round makes 3 d over each ch all around. The 3d round is like the first. In starting a round we make three sides of a mesh and so need 8 ch, all the other meshes need only 5 ch to make two sides of a mesh. It takes two rounds of work to make one row of meshes. Repeat the first and second rounds fourteen times. The work is started with Arabian and 2 rows of meshes are of Arabian color, i of green, i of blue, i of green, 4 of Arabian, i of green, i of blue, I of green, 2 of Arabian. Then the top is finished with scal- lops of 5 t each, all five are joined in the little space between groups of doubles, and in the next space i d is made. The handles are 2 meshes wide and 9 inches long. Chain 15, turn, join (back to the right) with si in 4th st from ist, 3 d over ch, ch 5, join in ist st of ch, cover with 6 d (two sides of a mesh), 3 d over next ch, ch 8, 3 d over ch, ch 5, 6 d over ch. When this is 9 inches long cover along the side with 3 d over each chain. To make a full-size book satchel, big enough to carry a small boy's books, the first chain should be 124, then make i d in the 4th ch st (leaving the loop of 3 ch) and i d in each ch but the last 3, a si in the last ch. Then the work is like the smaller satchel, except it has 84 meshes all around. About 24 rounds of meshes will be necessary to make it deep enough. Several plans are suggested for striping the larger satchel ; one is to make 2 rounds of gray, 3 of color (like the smaller one), 28 then 2 of gray and 3 of color, then 4 rounds of gray and re- verse the lower stripes to the top. Or another plan is to make 3 rounds of Arabian, 3 of color, 12 of Arabian, 3 of color, and 3 of Arabian. The third plan is to make the color broader: Start with 2 rounds of gray, 2 of green, 2 of blue, 2 of green, 8 of gray, 2 of green, 2 of blue, 2 of green, and 2 of gray. The scallops at the top might be made of green, and then the handles should be green also. A B ■|H^^P^^^^^pi''^H IP"V Wk. *- 'J- • ♦ » ' f • ■ B^MM'^ ^ffl ^^^^^^^^^^^i. ' ' J^^m: ^ ^hIR^ ^^B^«H ■BisI b. ^0 C D No. 521. Doll's Outfit This is a kind of crocheting not yet very much used, but it is to be given to the ''grown-ups" after a while ; for the present we will call it ''Lattice Crochet". Doll's Cushion Cover. — This small Cushion-cover, No. 519, is twelve inches square, made of carpet warp, Arabian, with a crochet-needle No. 8. One-half-pound spool will much more than make it, indeed, if a larger cushion were wanted, the half 29 pound would be more than enough for that. We will give di- rections for the larger cushion, too. Part of the work is Filet Crochet and part is Slipper Stitch, like that of the Boy's Slippers on page 21 and Face-cloth, No. 501, on page 6. Do not be frightened at Filet Crochet, for it is such a simple, easy sort of work, just square meshes, some solid and some open. The solid meshes are made of 3 t, that is, 2 t over the chain and i t over the t below. To Begin the Cushion. — Chain 6 and join in ring with si. 1st round — Chain 8, i t in ring, ch 2, i t, ch 5, i t, ch 2, i t, ch 5, I t, ch 2, I t, ch 5, I t, ch 2, join with si in third of 8 ch. 2d round — Chain i (turn and work from the wrong side), i d in the back loop of eagh stitch all around, except at the corners, where 3 d are made in the middle one of 5 ch. ^d round — Chain I (turn and work from the right side), i d in the back loop of each d, making 3 d in the middle one of 3 d at the corners. These two rounds make a rib of slipper stitch. 4th round — Slip stitch to the stitch at the corner, ch 8, i t in the corner stitch, 2 ch and i t all the way around, except at the corners ; make 2 t in the corner stitch with 5 ch between, si to corner stitch. =)th round — Like 4th. 6th and /th rounds — A rib of slipper stitch, crocheting the 6th round from the wrong side (like the 2d), and the 7th round from the right side (like the 3d). Then follow 15 rounds of Filet Crochet, for which the pattern is given at Fig. 19, page 25. The first of these 15 rounds (or 8th round) is all of open meshes. Slip stitch to the corner, 8 ch, I t, * 2 ch, I t *. Make from * to * 9 times, ch 5 for the cor- ner and repeat, pth round — * Chain 3, 3 t over first chain, 5 ch, I t over t, 2 t over ch, i t over t*. This makes a solid mesh, and each round is to be started in the same way from '^ to *. Four open meshes, i solid, 4 open, * i solid mesh, 5 ch, i solid *. From * to * makes the corner. From this on the block pattern, Fig. 19, is to be followed on all four sides. When 22 rounds are finished then make i rib of slipper stitch, 2 rounds of Filet crochet, i rib of slipper stitch, and it is ready for the border. Fig. 20. A foundation of chain and double is used in the model to 30 make one round of the border. Over the first ch make * i d, 3 ch, id*. Repeat from * to * over each ch. This is a Ht- tle different from the edge of Face-cloth, No. 502 on page 7. That is, 2 d over each ch and 3 ch between pairs of doubles ; this has a pair of doubles over each chain, but the 3 ch separates them. Either one is a good little edge for many things. If one wanted a large cushion-cover it could be easily made by repeating the 25th, 26th, 27th, and 28th rounds until it is the size wanted. Repeating them three times would make a very good size. Another plan is to make (after the 28th round) nine rounds of Filet crochet all open, except at the corners make solid blocks like the 9th round, then add the 23d, 24th, 25th, 26th, 27th, and 28th rounds, and the edge or border. In the 9 rounds of Filet crochet the pattern could be used if the first of 9 rounds is all open meshes, the second one (of 9) has a solid mesh next the corner, then 4 open meshes, and then com- mence the pattern. Baby's Bib. — This pretty Bib, No. 520, is crocheted of a silk- finished or mercerized crochet cotton. One spool is sufficient, and a No. 8 crochet-needle is a very good size. Number 8 Pearl cotton might be used. The work should be done slightly loose, not loose enough to make it open ; but it will not be soft for the baby's neck if it is crocheted too tightly. This bib shows another good use of slipper stitch. Chain 100, miss I st, i d in each stitch of the chain. Turn, ch I, 49 d in the next 49 stitches (taking up the back loop), 3 d in next st, 26 d in next 26 sts. Turn, ch i, miss i, 26 d in next 26 d, 3 d in middle of widening stitches, 26 d in 26 d. Turn, ch i, miss i, 26 d in 26 d, 3 d in middle d, 26 d in 26 d. Continue in this way, like the last row until there are 8 ribs (or 16 rows), then add a stitch on each side of every other row until there are 20 ribs. Fasten the thread. Start at the end of 26 d and finish out the row with doubles. Turn and make the border (which is of 3 rows) as follows: ist rozi' — * Chain 2, miss i d, i d in next *. Repeat from * to * around. 2d roiv — Turn, * ch 3, i d over 31 2 ch *. Repeat from '^ to '•' around, making 2 d in each stitch, with 2 ch between to turn each corner, jd rozc — Turn, make * I t, 4 ch, I d in first of 4 ch, ch i, i t, 4 ch, i d in first of 4 ch, ch I, I t, 4 ch, I d in first of 4 ch, ch i, i t, 4 ch, i d in first of 4 ch, ch I '% from * to * all over 3 ch, i d over next 3 ch, "^^ I d, 4 ch, I d in first of 4 ch '•% from * to '' over next ch, i d under next ch, ch i. Repeat from beginning of 3d row all around, making 5 t to turn the corners. If the neck measure seems small add 30 stitches to the chain of 100 to make it long enough and mark the middle of the chain to bring the widening in the right place ; the count each side of the middle should be followed as given above. Edgings. — On page 22 we have three edges crocheted into the cloth and finished in one row of work. These edges are so useful and so easily done that everybody ought to know a few of them. Figure 21 is made in this way: Draw a loop of thread through the edge of the hem or fold, ch 3, * i t into the cloth, i ch, 2 d over the treble as if it were a chain, i ch *. Repeat from '^ to * all along the hem. There is a little care needed in separating the trebles the right distance, but practice will make that right. Figure 22 is so very easy and yet it is new to many work- ers. Draw a loop of thread through the cloth and ''■■ make 6 ch, skip I and take up a loop in each of the 5 ch (taking up only one thread), keeping the loops all on the needle; with the one already on the needle there will be six, draw one loop through all and make a tight chain stitch, then si in the cloth *. Re- peat from "^ to '^\ A little practice will show how far apart the slip stitches should be placed. Figure 23 is more difficult to explain but no harder to do than the other edges. Draw a loop through the cloth, ch 3, '■' I t, 3 ch, a slip through the loop of the treble that is seen at the end of the work in Fig. 23. Repeat from *. This edge is pret- tier if it is not crowded too closely. It will stretch a very little and look better. Dolly's Hood, No. 52 iB. — With white Shetland floss, make chain of 6, join with si to form a ring, ist round — Chain 4, 22 32 d t in ring, join with si, and after two tight chain stitches cut the thread. 2d round — With pink Shetland floss, join in top of 4 ch, ch 3, make shell as follows : Thread over needle, put nee- dle through same stitch (top of 4 ch), draw thread through one- half inch, thread over needle, needle through top of next d t, draw thread through one-half inch, thread over needle, draw through all the stitches on the needle, ch i, * thread over nee- dle, needle through top of same d t, draw out one-half inch, thread over needle, needle through top of next d t, thread over needle, draw thread through all on needle, ch i *. In making this shell, the last half of one shell and the first half of the next are in the same stitch of the round below. Repeat from "^ to ■•" all around, join with si, and after two tight chain stitches cut the thread. j(/ round — (White), like 2d round, working in top of shells instead of d t. 4th round — (Pink), like 2d, making only 20 shells, fasten with si and two tight chain. Cut thread, jth round — (Pink), like 4th, 20 shells. dtJi round — (White), like 4th, 20 shells, yth round — (White), like 4th, 20 shells. 8tJi round — (Pink and white together), join in top of 3 ch, ch 3, make 2 t between chain and first shell, * skip 2 shells, in space between 2d and 3d shells make i d, 3 ch, and 2 t. Repeat this all around the hood, including the back of the neck. With pink and white make at each side of hood a chain of 30 stitches for ties. At the end of chain, pull stitch on needle out a half inch, thread over needle, needle through last chain, draw thread through a half inch, repeat three times, one loop through all on needle, ch i. This makes a little ball. Make a second ball and fasten with a si in top of the first ball, si in each of next 2 ch. Dolly's Tarn, No. 52 iD. — With white Shetland floss, ch 6, join with si to make a ring, ist round — Chain 4, make 20 d t in ring, join wdth si. 2d round — Chain 4, make shells all around like the shell in 2d round of Dolly's Hood, working between d t, half on one side and half on the other side of each d t, with 2 ch be- tween shells instead of i ch. jj round — Like 2d, except that only I ch is made between shells and a widening shell is added in this w^ay: Chain 3, make one-half shell between first and sec- 33 Olid shells, also one whole shell in same place and one-half shell in the same space. A half shell in the next space, '" two more shells as usual, then make one-half, one whole, and one-half shells in the next space for a second widening '•'. Repeat from * to * around. 4tJi round — Chain 4, shell between shells of round below, jth and 6th rounds — Like 4th. /th round — * Chain 4, i d and 2 ch between every second and third shells *. Repeat from * to '^' around. 8tli round — Chain 4, "^^ 2 t over ch, ch I, I t in d, I ch *. Repeat around. ptJi round — With both pink and white, ch 3, i t in joining stitch, * i d, 3 ch, i t * in every 3d t. Ball Tassels. — Fasten both colors in centre of tam, make two balls like those on ti^s of Dolly's Hood. Fasten the second one to the centre of the tam. Dolly's Sacque, No. 521 A. — Work loosely with a medium bone needle. Whh white Shetland floss, make a chain of 57. ist rozc — In the 4th ch from the needle make 2 t, ''' skip i ch, make a shell of 2 t in next ch *. Repeat from * to "^ to the end of the row, I t in the last ch, fasten with si and 2 tight ch, cut thread. 2d rozv — (\\'ith pink Shetland floss), join at beginning of previous row, ch 3, make shell of 2 t in shell below. Repeat from * to * in next 2 shells, "^ in next shell make 2 shells for widening at the armhole, make i shell in each of the next 3 shells, 2 shells in next shell, fasten with d back between first double shell and shell before it '^'. This makes the armhole. Ten shells in the next 10 shells. Repeat from * to '^ for second armhole, 3 shells in next 3 shells, i t at end of row, fasten and cut thread. Sd row — (White), begin at beginning of last row, ch 3, i shell in each shell with i t before and after joining the armholes, at the end of the row turn. 4th rozc — Chain 3, i shell in each shell, ^th and 6th rozi's — Like 4th, fasten and cut thread. Border of Sacque. — (Pink), begin at right side top and work across neck, down and around. Chain 4, i d t over every chain between shells of ist row. Along the side make 4 d t over every chain at the end of each row ; along the bottom make shell of 3 d t in each shell. Make the second side like the first, fasten and cut the thread. 34 With white make i d between group of 4 d t and group of 3 d t, * ch 4, id between the next two groups of 3 d t *. Repeat along the bottom, make 3 ch and i d between every 26. and 3d d t along sides and top of sacque. Cord and Ball Tassels. — Use pink and white together, leave three-quarters yard at starting and make ch of 100. Make a ball at the end like those on Dolly's Tam, No. 52 iD. After running the chain in the neck of the sacque make a ball at the first end of the thread left there. Sleeves. — (White), join under armhole. ist round — Chain 3, shell of 2 t in centre of each shell, i t at end, fasten with si. 2d and ^d rounds — Like ist. 4th round — (Pink), like ist. Finish the sleeves with chain trimming as for sacque. On the last pages you will find a few names of the other girls, that are to be crocheted in Filet Crochet like the name ''Mother" in the towel. No. 504, on page 10. Some of these letters are seven meshes high and some of them nine meshes. There should be, at least, one open mesh above and one below ; and we will call the insertion nine meshes wide where the letters are seven meshes high, and the insertion eleven meshes wide where the letters are nine meshes high. If you want more open meshes at each edge, add the same number above and below. Then if there are any names not found here, there is a whole alphabet (seven meshes high). Fig. 24, and that will spell any- thing. Be sure to make one row of open meshes across be- tween each letter and the next one. There are also two little borders, Figs, ^y and 38, for the other end of the towel or for any other use you may wish to make of them. And now, my dear Louise, this is a long, long letter, in which, I trust, you will find many interesting things ; some of them you will make, and some of them the other girls will make ; and I hope both you and all the other girls will learn some new things about crocheting. Sincerely yours. Auntie Belle. 35 Fig. 24. Alphabet 7 meshes high Illll l l i llllll l l l ll i ll i llll i l l ll l l Hil l i lllllllll Fig. 25 II meshes high IMIBIIi l liMMiiMI Fig. 26 II meshes high llll l lllillilllli l l l iill ll i Fig. 27 II meshes high i l iillWil l HM Fig. 28 9 meshes high iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii Fig. 29 36 9 meshes high MiBB Fig. 30 II meshes high l l """""" ! """" Fig. 31 9 meshes high ■■■■■— Fig. 32 9 meshes high Fig. 33 9 meshes high i 11 Fig. 34 9 meshes high 11 Fig. 35 9 meshes high ^^ffflMiiWrfWlll M Fig. 36 II meshes high ■ :::■ i 'i':'i!:'i'?i':'. ■ :::■ Fig. 37 5 meshes wide Fig. 38 5 meshes wide LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 145 356 7 This is the most helpful Magazine for Women The Modern Priscilla is de- voted to Fancy Work, Fashions, Housekeeping and Fiction and is so helpful, interesting and enter- .taining that it is read by over 400,000 delighted women each month. W™' P^lla fi^ Annu.1 ^ !!-??^^^^T^ N One Woman Says — ' */ can truth- fully say that THE Modern PRIS- CILLA is the most interesting and helpful magazine I have ever seen and now that I have read one copy, I shall never wilfully allow my subscription to expire. Each month The Modern Priscilla gives from 50 to 100 lovely Fancy Work designs and shows a multi- tude of unique, stylish and beautiful ways to apply them. Each month the Everyday Housekeeping section con- 1 ains an abundance of practical ideas which will show you how to add many comforts and conveniences to your home, how to lighten your household duties and how to save money. In addition to all this there is at least one really enter- taining short story in each issue. Look where you will, you can find no other magazine that will give you so much genuine help and pleasure as The Modern Priscilla. Subscription price, $1.00 a year. The Priscilla Publishing Company 85 Broad Street, Boston, Mass. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS ■H 014 145 356 7 «y HoUinger Corp. ^14 ft c.