HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE CENTENARY EDITION BOOKS BY HENRY M. STANLEY Published by CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. Centenary Edition. With an Introduction by Robert E, Speer. Illustrated. 8vo . . . nei S2.00 IN DARKEST AFRICA, or The Quest, Rescue, and Retreat of Emin, Governor of Equa- toria. New and Cheaper Edition in One Volume. With illustrations and maps. 8vo. net $3.00 MY DARK COMPANIONS, and Their Strange Stories. Illustrated $2.00 MY KALULU : Prince, King, and Slave. Illus- trated fi.50 DR. LIVINGSTONE. CENTENARY EDITION HOW I FOUND LIVING-STONE TRAVELS, ADVENTURES, AND DISCOVERIES IN CENTRAL AFRICA INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF FOUK MONTHS' RESIDENCE WITH DR. LIVINGSTONE HENRY M. STANLEY WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY ROBERT E. SPEER Secretary of the Presbsrterian Board of Foreign Missicma WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS AFTER DRAWINGS BY THE AUTHOR NEW YORK CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 1913 0^ Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1874, by SCRIBNER. ARMSTRONG & CO. in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington Copyright, 1918, bt CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS ©CI.A34331.3 ?#7 ^ JAMES GOEDON BENNETT, ESQ- (PKOPBIETOK OF THE "NEW TOBK HEEALD,"; THIS RECORD OF THE EXPEDITION SENT IN SEARCH OF DOCTOR liTVTNGSTONii^ AU» OF TSJiVEL&. ADVENTURES, AND DlSOOVERlllS m CENTRAL AFRICA, AS A TRIBUTE to lUK QENEROSITY AND THE LIBERALITY WHICH ORIGINATED. SaSTAIKSU AND CROWNED THE ENTERPRISE, B¥ HIS GRATEFUL SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT, HENRY M. STANLEY, -? CONTENTS. CHAPTER L ZANZIBAR. Arrival at Zanzibar — Eeception by Captain Webb, U.S. Consul — Life at Zanzibar — System of Trade with the Interior — The town of Zanzibar — ^Population — ^Introduction to Dr. Kirk — Bishop Tozer . Pages 1 to 20 CHAPTER II. ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. Difficulty of obtaining information — Engagement of J. W. Shaw and W. L. Farquhar — Mbarak Bombay — ^Visit to the Sultan's Palace — Embarkation for Bagamoyo — Courtesy and Character of the Sultan ... . . Pages 21 to 40 CHAPTER IIL BAGAMOYO. Arrival at Bagamoyo— Hospitality of the Jesuit Mission — ^Life at Bagamoyo — Ali bin Salim — Dishonest Prowlers — Donkey stolen — ^Packing the Bales — Difficulty in procuring Pagazis — Cost of Carriage and Goods — Soor Hadji Palloo — His pecca- dilloes — Visit to the Livingstone Caravan — Arrival at Bagamoyo of Dr. Kirk — Climate of Bagamoyo — Departure of the Five Caravans Pages 41 to 68 wiii CONTENTS, CHAPTEE lY. THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE, TO USEGUHHA. Amval at first Camp, " Shamba Gonera " — The Valley of the Kingani — Building Bridge across the Kingani — The crossing — E'eppering Hippopotami — Arrival at Kikoka — Eoute never travelled by & White Man — Kosako, the Frontier Village of UkTsere-'-Importincnt Curiosity of the Wagogo — My Wat(^h- dog "Omar"— The Insect Tribe — The Tsetse Fly— The Chufwa Fly : its voracity — Commencement of the Masika, or Kainy Season — Death of Arab Horse — Interview with Chief of Kingaru — Death of Bay Horse — March to Imbiki — Arrival at Msuwa — Jungle troubles — Chained Slave-gang — Kisemo — The Belles of Kisemo — ^Desertion of Khamesi: his punishment — Crossing the Ungerengeri — The Capital, Useguhha Simba- mwenni — The Sultana — Stormy Dispute with Shaw — African Ague — ^Visit from the Sultana . . Pages 69 to 12C CHAPTER V. TO UGOGO. The Rainy Season — Innumerable Hosts of Creeping Things — Cross- ing the Ungerengeri — The Flogging of Bunder Salaam : he is Lost : his Discovery — Soldiers imprisoned by the Sultana — The Makata V^ildemess — Desertion and Capture of Soldier — Terri- ble Diflficulties in crossing the Makata Swamp— Encampment at Usagara — Shaw's Letter to Farquhar — ^Farquhar's Reply — His extravagant Expenditure — Shaw's Dilatoriness — Novel mode of using a Cart — Lake Ugombo — Shaw and Farquhar at Breakfast — Shaw "measures his length" on the ground — Asks for his Discharge — He Repents — A Shot fired through my Tent — Farquhar left behind at Mpwapwa — Abdullah bin Nasib — Scenery of Mpwapwa . . . Pages 121 to 170 CHAPTER VL THROUGH MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, UYANZl, TO UNYANYEMBt Arrival at Chunyo — Bitter Water — Marenga Mkali — No Water for Thirty-six Hours — A Dangerous Fever attack — Arrival CONTENTS. ix at Ugogo — ^Furiois Mob — Plentiful Supplies at MvumI — Tribute to the Great , Sultan — The Sultan of Matamburu — March to Bihawana — Whipping the Wagogo — ^Visit from the Sultan of Mizanza — The Wahumba a fine Eace — Arrival at Mukonduku — Departure — Counsel with Arabs as to Eoute — Dispute and Separation from them — ^They follow — ^Ugogo proves to be a Land of Gall and Bitterness — ^Arrival at Kiti — Sultan bin Mohammed — Halt at Kusuri — ^Thief shot — ^Mud- ffsh — ^Eubuga in Eui3is — Amir bin »Sultan — Crossing tho Mtoni — ^Arii?al in Unjanyembe • • • • PageiJ 171 to 222 CHAPTEE VII. GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPfflCAL REMARKS. Pages 223 to 267 CHAPTEB VIIL LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. Hospitality of the Grovernor, Sayd bin Salim — Comfortable Quarters — Tabora, the principal Arab Settlement — ^Mirambo, Chief of Uyoweh — ^His Depredations — A Council of War — The Livingstone Caravan found — Terrible attack of Fever — March for Ujiji — ^Arrival at Masangi — Shaw taken 111 — Join the Arab Army at Mfuto — Fi^hi with Mirambo — Capture of the Village of Zimbizo — ^Fever again — Defeat and great Slaughter of the Arabs bv Mirambo — Eetreat to Mfuto . • Pages 258 to 281 CHAPTEE IX. LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE, The Arabs Eetreat to Tabora — I proceed — Arrival at Kwihara — Try another Eoute — ^My Position most Serious — Death of Farquhar reported — Defeat of the Arabs at Tabora — ^Khamis bin Abdullah slain — Tabora in Flames — Preparations for Defence — The Philosopher Sheikh bin Nasib — I determine to lead a Flying Caravan to TJjiij — Death of Baruti — ^Men dis- pirited — The little Boy Kalulu — His baptism — Mirambo attacks Mfuto, and is defeated — Selim Delirious from constant Fevers — Two Guides, Asmani and Mabruki — My Eesolution to find Livingstone Pages 287 to 309 B CONTENTS. CHAPTEE X. TO WE ERA, UKOKOKGO. (Start from Kwiiara — Bombay gets a Thrashing — Shaw \dshe8 to stay behind — I compel him to go on — Another Fever attack — ^Livingstone's Letter-carrier missing — Arrival at Kasegera — Shaw gives in, and is sent back to Kwihara — The splendid Forests of Unyamwezi — "We reach Ugnnda — The Mukunguru — Description of this Fever — A magnificent Sycamore — A Victim to Small-pox — ^Numerous Skeletons found on the Eoad-side — Arrival at Manyara — Dispute as to Tribute with the Sultan — Visit from him — A Dose of Concentrated Anamonia — The Stdtan's Astonishment — The Hunter's Paradise — My first Game, an Antelope shot — Zebra-stalking — Adventure with a Croco- dile — Two Days* Hunting — Mutiny — Asmani and Mabruki present their Guns at me — Peace restored — Bombay Thrashed again, and put in Chains — Characters of the Principal Men — Arrival at Ziwani — The Honey-Bird — Utende — Mwaru — Arrival at Mrera — Shoe-mending . , . Pages 310 to 36C CHAPTEE XL THROUGH UKAWENDl, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJL Departure from Mrera — Camp in the Jungle — I sink to my Neck in the Ooze of the Eungwa — The Mpokwa Eiver — ^The Home of the Lion first seen — A Troop of Monkeys — ^Adventure with a huge Wild Boar — Followed by a Lion^A Day of great Troubles — A Buffalo shot — A Leopard — Buffalo-stalking — Famine stares us in the face — Welled Nzogera's — ^Food plentiful — ^A Donkey sinks in the Morass — Embassy to Chief Kiala — Seven Hours of Talk — On the Banks of the Malagarazi — Our Donkey " Simba " seized and carried away by a Crocodile — News of Livingstone! — Halt at Kawanga — Disputes about Tribute — ^Exorbitant Demands — ^We cross the Pombwe and the Kanengi Eivers — A Midnight March through the Jungle — A Crazy Woman almost betrays us by yelling — Thunder from the Tanganika — On the Banks of the Eugufu — ^Niamtaga — The Tanganika! Hurrah! Unfurl the Flags ! — Susi, Dr. Living- stone's Servant, says, "Good-morning, Sir!" — "Dr. Living- iTONE, I PEEStJMB ?" " Tes I" — Conversation with the Doctor —Good-night Pages 361 to 419 CHAPTEE XIL INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI. Stmimary from my Note-book of Livingstone's Travels Pages 420 to 474 CHAPTEK XIII. OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA. Our Ship, a cranky Canoe — Enormous Dog-nosed Monkey — The Fishermen of the Tanganika — The Zassi Eiver and Village — Soundings of the Lake — Nyabigma Island — Disturbed at Supper — Hostility of the Natives — War between Mukamba and Warumashanya — A Mgwana asserts that the Kusizi flows out of the Lake — I am struck down by Fever — Nursed by the Doctor — The Mgwana's Keport contradicted by Mukamba — Swarms of Crocodiles — Kuhinga's Information — The Head of the Lake and the Mouth of the Kusizi — The Question, Was the Rusizi an Effluent or Influent, answered for ever — The Doctor still believes in an Outlet — Burton and Speke's Extreme Point — Signs of Disturbance in Mruta's Village — " New York Herald Islets " — Cape Luvumba — A Fight about to Commence — The Sultan Pacified — ^A serio-comic Scene — Eeturn to Ujiji Pages 476 to 615 CHAPTER XIV. GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. Pages 616 to 667 CHAPTER XV. OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE. Chat with Livingstone over the Incidents of the " Pic-nic " — The Doctor declines to return Home until his Work is done — Blames Dr. Kirk for sending him Slaves, and commanding them to bring him back — Recovery of his Enfield Rifles — The Doctor resolves to accompany me to Unyanyembe — Attack of Remittent Fever — How we spent Christmas-day— Departure from Ujiji — Our Voyage down the Tanganika — Arrival at, and crossing the Liuche — Crossing the Malagarazi — ^No Current in the Tanganika — Arrival at Urimba — Zebra-shooting — The Valley of Loajeri — Buffalo Cow shot — Confronting an Elephant — Travellers' Tales — Red-bearded Monkeys — Magdala sighted xi! CONTENTS, —The Valley of Imrera — The Doctor foot-sore — ^Herds of Game in Mpokwa Plain — Two Zebras shot — A Herd of Giraffe — Giraffe wounded — Ibrahim's Slave Ulimengo absconds — Latitude of Mpokwa — Zinc Canteens converted into Bullets — Giraffe brought down therewith — Start for Misonghi — The Doctor dreadfully Stung by Wild Bees — ^Mirambo famished- Death of Shaw — Incidents in the Career and Death of Eobert Livingstone — A Lion in the Grass — A Triplet of Lions — Arrival at Ugunda — Capture of tho Daserter, Hamdallah — Arrival at UnyauQyembe • • • • Pagefi 558 to 607 CHAPTER XVL HOMEWARD BOUND. Livingstone's Stores opened — Found to be a Delusion — Asmani found Guilty — White Ants consuming the Brandy and replao- ing the Corks ! — The Goods turned over to Dr. Livingstone — He writes his Letters home — His Letter to James G. Bennett — ^Native Song — Last Night with Livingstone — His Journal sealed up — Our final Departure — Farewell — Halt at Tura — Letters from the Doctor — Arrival at Kiwyeh — ^Wagogo War Horns sounding everywhere — Full Fighting Costume — ^A false Alarm — Khonze Chief resists our Advance — Preparation for * Fight — Mnyamwezi seized by the Throat, and Peace restored — Arrival at Kanyenyi— Visit from the Sultan — The Village of Mapanga — Sudden Eush of Armed Natives — Forty Spears against Forty Guns — Tribute Demanded and Paid — ^Leucole's Account of Farquhar's Death — The Valley of the Mukondokwa — Privation from the Masika — Awful Floods— Fighting Swarms of Mosquitoes — The Doctor's Despatch-Box in Jeopardy — Dragged through the Eiver by Eopes — Arrival at Simba- mwenni — Tha Wall swept away — Terrific Storm — Destruction of One Hundred Villages — The Msunva Jungle — Its Horrors — "Hot-water " Ants — News from Zanzibar — Arrival at Bagamoyo — The meeting with the Livingstone Search and Belief Expe- dition Pages 608 to 667 CHAPTEE XVIL VALEDICTORY . Pages 658 to 692 APPENDIX .•••.,... Pages 693 to 719 UST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. THE MUKON- ^uU-page lllusfrations. Portrait of Dr. Livingstone . \' 1. Stanley and Kalulu . \/ 2, A VIEW OF Zanzibab >/3. A VIEW op Bagamoyo . V 4. SiMBAMWENNI — " ThE LiON dTT" n/6. Discomforts op African travel— The Makata Swamp .... J 6. Shaw's mode of marching >/7. The Lake and Peak of Ugumbo V 8. Mount Kibwe, and the Valley of DOKWA TlVER . • ■^ 9, We attack Mibambo • • VIO. View of Kwihara V 11. Ma-manyaba takes medicine s/12. The mutiny on the Gombe Kiveb n/13. Selim, the Interpreter \^4. The wounded boar comes to a halt - '15. " Dr. Livingstone, I presume?" 16. Our lev^e at Magala, Urundi s/17. At the mouth op the Eusizi via .19 ^0. Db. Livingstone at work on his journal On Lake Tanganika— homeward bound " He is shot ! He is shot !" — shooting a buf- falo cow • • • • • a surprise • • . • • A LION m the grass 25. My house in Kwihaba, Unyanyembe 26. The Waqogo on the wab path ^ 27. Symptoms op a fight . J 28. " Look out 1 You drop that box — Fll shoot il Frontispiece to face Introduction to face page 3 41 115 POT-FOURRI — ARMS, IMPLEMENTS, AND PIPES r 2L /22. v/24. 135 152 154 245 280 310 334 345 352 371 412 494 504 at pages 544 and 545 to face page 663^ 667 YOU' 677 630 6(^ 612 632 63B 642 ^mnlkx lllttstratbrw. 1. View op Bagamoyo 0. P^BTiuiT op Bombay and Mabbuki . o. Woman obinding corn 41 69 10^ riv LIST OF ILLUSTBATI0N8. rAQK 4. POBTRAIT OF ShAW AND FaBQUHAB • • • • » 121 5. Our camp at Chunyo •••••,» 171 6. Mgogo man and womah •••..,, 223 7. A GATE OP A VILLAGK ••..,,. 239 8. Weapons of wab • • • 242 9. Youthful Wasagara •••••.. 248 10. Bird's-eye view op a tembe •••♦.. 253 11. View in front of my tembb •••.«. 258 12. Group of Wanyamwezi .••♦,,, 287 13. Gigantic sycamore and camp ••.,,, 328 14. View in Uvinza , , 361 15. Village in Uzaviba — ^native potteet . • . . 367 16. OuB HOUSE IN Ujiji ...•••. 420 17. View on Lake Tanganika ..•••• 475 18. SUSI, THE SEBVANT OF LIVINGSTONE ..... 499 19. IJJIJI cow, UNYAMWEZI cow, PAEIAH dog, and PAT-TAILBD SHEEP 516 20. The fishes of the Tanganika 632 21. An idol • • • . 552 22. Daggebs and speab-heads •••••, 656 23. Our camp at Ubimba , . , , , , ,658 24. Making the most of a hai^ •••••. 609 25. TheMemobial • • 719 Small sketch map of Livingstone's discoveries to face page 1. Plan of water system in page 229. Sketch map of Livingstone's discoveries to face page 449. Map of Eastern Central Africa — At end of volume. EERATA. 29 etpeuiim, line 25, Ac . Syed Seyd. 41 plate Bagomoyo Baganu^o. 62, GB passim O'Reilly ReiUy. 137 et passim, line 13, Ac. . Sarmian • • • . Sarmeaa. 142 29 baughy ..•••. banghy. 166 19 quahary KwaherL 171 10 (coL 1) .... Manieka ..... Munieka. 237 20 representations • . • representative!, 245 plate ..••.* Mukandokwa .... Mukondokwa. 259 23 .••••• • Nghema Ngtma, 330 18 ..•••• • stamped tamped. 341 33 O'Reilly Reilly. 37© 33 its his 383 26 beasts reptiles. 391 6 ..•••• • ^as not spoken . . . has spokeOi 4gj% 3, . . • . . . insert ^^oV^ at beginning of line. STANLEY AND KALULU. INTfiODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION David Livingstone^ whom the world had given up as lost until Stanley found him at Ujiji on November 10th, 1871, as he has related in this book, was born at Blantyre, Scotland, March 19th, 1813. He was the second son of a poor and worthy Scotch weaver, and the obscurity of his birth was in keeping with the utter ignorance which then prevailed regarding that great African interior which he was to do more than any other man to open to the world. Two years after his birth "Smith's New Map of Africa" was published. It revealed an exact knowledge of the coast line and filled it with correct tribal names. The interior, however, was still an enigma, more so even than it had been, because the imaginations of men were less fervent and unbridled, and what they did not know they did not imagine that they knew. On Smith's map, the Nile ended in the Mountains of the Moon. The Congo was known for a short distance from its mouth, and was called the Zaire. Neither the mouth nor the source of the Niger was known, although an interior section of the river was put down on the map, which knew nothing, of course, of the great inland lakes, although it marked in part the supposed outlines of one. Lake Maravi or Zimba, corre- sponding roughly in shape, size and situation to Lake Tanganyika, and lying under the " Mountains of Lupata, xvi INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. or Spine of the World, covered with snow." That was what was known of Africa in 1815. In the forty years between Livingstone's birth and the beginning of his real exploratory service in Africa a great amount of hard and invaluable work was done. The problem of the Niger was solved, the Nile territories were investigated together with Abyssinia and the Sudan, al- though the sources of the Nile still remained in some doubt. And South Africa up to 23° south latitude w^as explored. But Equatorial Africa was still unknown, re- served for the Scotch lad who had no remotest dream of what it was to be given to him to do. r" Sailing from England on December 8th, 1840, Living- stone began his work for Africa as a missionary of the London Missionary Society. Before he had been three years among the Bechuanas, he became convinced that the field w^as too small for the force which the society was providing. Finding that a brother missionary was willing to go with him to a new station among the Bak- hatlas, they went and established themselves there ^^on their own responsibility, and in the hope that the di- rectors would approve of it. But if they did not, he told them that he was at their disposal Ho go anywhere pro- vided it he forward.^ ^^ Thereafter it was always forward. His first great journey was from Linyanti, on the border of what is now Rhodesia, about 18° south latitude, north and west to St. Paul de Loanda on the Atlantic seacoast. Thence, instead of returning to Scotland, he plunged in- land and crossing the continent emerged at Quilimane on the east coast, having traced the course of the Zambesi INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. xvii River from its source to its mouth. After a visit home he returned to Africa, and from 1858 to 1864 was busy ex- ploring the Zambesi, the River Shire and Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa. His third and last expedition, from 1866 to 1872, was devoted to exploration and discover}^ north of the territor}' of his preceding travels, around Lakes Nyassa, Bangw^eolo, Moero and Tanganyika, to the de- termination of the sources of the Nile, and to investiga- tion of the Lualaba River, which turned out later to be the Upper Congo. r This is the bare outline of the work which Livingstone did and which came to its end a year after Stanley left him, renewed in courage and refreshed wdth the supplies which the generosity of Stanlej^'s employer provided for him. They parted at Unyanyembe and Livingstone turned back to finish the work which he had midertaken and which he knew would be his last. He reached Ilala on Lake Bang- weolo, on April 27th, 1873, worn out and with no compan- ions except his black men, who had to put him under the eaves of a house during a drizzling rain, imtil the hut they were building should be made ready. ^^Then they laid him on a rough bed in the hut, where he spent the night. Next day he lay undisturbed. He asked a few wandering questions about the coimtry — es- pecially about the Luapula. His people knew that the end could not be far off. Nothing occurred to attract notice during the early part of the night, but at four in the morning, the boy who lay at his door called in alarm for Susi, fearing that their master was dead. By the candle still burning they saw him, not in bed, but kneel- xviii INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. ing at the bedside, with his head buried in his hands upon the pillow. The sad yet not unexpected truth soon became evident: he had passed away on the furthest of all his journeys, and without a single attendant. But he had died in the act of prayer — sprayer offered in that reverential attitude about which he was always so par- ticular; commending his own spirit, with all his dear ones, as was his wont, into the hands of his Saviour; and com- mending Africa, his own dear Africa, — with all her woes and sins and wrongs, — to the Avenger of the oppressed and the Redeemer of the lost." But, as Dr. Blaikie goes on to tell us in his 'Personal Life of David Livingstone," this death was the beginning rather than the ending of Livingstone's influence: ^^The thrill that went through the civilized world when his death and all its touching circumstances became known, did more for Africa than he could have done had he completed his task and spent years in this country following it up. From the worn-out figure kneeling at the bedside in the hut in Ilala, an electric spark seemed to fly, quickening hearts on every side. The statesman felt it; it put new vigor into the dispatches he wrote and the measures he devised with regard to the slave-trade. The merchant felt it, and began to plan in earnest how to traverse the continent with roads and railways, and open it to commerce from shore to centre. The explorer felt it, and started with high purpose on new scenes of un- known danger. The missionary felt it, — felt it a reproof of past languor and unbelief, — and found himself lifted up to a higher level of faith and devotion. No parliament INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. xix of philanthropy was held ; but the verdict was as unani- mous and as hearty as if the Christian world had met and passed the resolution — ^Livingstone's work shall not die: , —Africa shall live.'" J ^'In the annals of exploration of the dark continent," said Stanley, "we look in vain among other nationalities for such a name as Livingstone's." He had travelled 29,000 miles in Africa, and added 1,000,000 square miles to the known regions of the globe. ''It will be long," said Sir Bartle Frere, as President of the Royal Geograph- ical Society, ''ere any one man will be able to open so large an extent of unknown land to civilized mankind. , . . Eveiy year will add fresh evidence to show how well considered were the plans he took in hand, and how vast have been the results of the movements he set in motion." The celebration of the centennial ol Livingstone's birth aiid the issue of a new edition of Stanley's account of his discoveiy and relief of the great explorer invite a review of these movements and of the changes in Africa since the two men looked in each other's faces for the last time at Unyanyembe forty years ago. A new era of exploration began with Livingstone's death, and the foremost name among those who carried forward the work of opening what still remained unknown was Stanley's. His account of his meeting with Living- stone shows the depth of the impression which Living- stone made upon him. ' ' For four months and four days, ' ' wrote Stanley, "I lived with him in the same house or in the same boat or in the same tent, and I never found a fault in him." And this association brought him into a XX INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. loving admiration and desire of service for Livingstone, and then, without his reahzing it, into a truly sacred sense of duty to fulfill Livingstone's work. In a small pocket-book of Stanley's his wife came upon a draft of a letter written on March 15th, 1872, to the new friend whom he had foimd and whose character and aims had changed all the world for him. The date is the day after they had parted. The letter has never before been pub- lished. '^My Dear Doctor: ^^I have parted from you too soon, I feel it deeply; I am entirely conscious of it from being so depressed. ... In writing to you, I am not writing to an idea now, but to an embodiment of warm, good fellowship, of everything that is noble and right, of sound common-sense, of every- thing practical and right-minded. "I have talked with you; your presence is almost pal- pable, though you are absent. . . . "It seems as if I had left a community of friends and re- lations. The utter loneliness of myself, the void that has been created, the pang at parting, the bleak aspect of the future, is the same as I have felt before, when parting from dear friends. "Why should people be subjected to these partings, with the several sorrows and pangs that surely follow them? — It is a consolation however, after tearing myself away, that I am about to do you a service, for then I have not quite parted from you, you and I are not quite separate. Though I am not present to you bodily, 3^ou must think INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. xxi of me daily, until your caravan arrives. Though you are not before me visibly, I shall think of you constantly, until your least wish has been attended to. In this way the chain of remembrance will not be severed. ^^^Not yet,' I say to myself, 'are we apart,' and this to me, dear Doctor, is consoling, believe me. Had I a series of services to perform for you, why then ! we should never have to part. ''Do not fear then, I beg, to ask, nay to command, what- ever lies in my power. And do not, I beg of you, attrib- ute these professions to interested motives, but accept them, or believe them, in the spirit in which they are made, in that true David Livingstone spirit, I have hap- pily become acquainted with." In forwarding this letter. Lady Stanley writes : "This letter is so young — so full of true emotion. It shows Stanley as the Autobiography reveals him, deeply affectionate, and lonely. I think that idea of Service uniting him to Livingstone beautiful." So everyone will think and so history judges as it binds inseparably into one the deeds of exploration and human service which the two men achieved. Stanley's work embraced three great exploratory^ jour- neys of which it can be truly said that they were worthy of being grouped with the three great expeditions of Liv- ingstone. The first, lasting from 1874-1877, and de- scribed in ''The Dark Continent," solved the problem of the Lualaba and revealed to the world the hydrographical system of the Congo, which Stanley in vain sought to xxii INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. have called the Livingstone River. He started from Ba- jamoyo, circumnavigated the great African lakes, entered the unknown Congo basin and traced the river down to its mouth. He followed up this brilliant achievement by returning to Africa in 1879 and later to share in the found- ing of the Congo Free State and again in 1887 in charge of the expedition for the relief of Emin Pasha, which yielded rich geographical results in its discoveries regard- ing the river systems of Eastern Equatorial Africa. Next to Stanley the travellers who have contributed most to carry forward the exploratory movement since Livingstone's death were Cameron (1873-1875); who ex- plored Tanganyika and thence crossed Africa overland to Benguela, proving that the Lualaba was distinct from the Nile system; De Brazza (1876-1880), who established the unity of the Ogowe and reached the Congo from the northwest; Serpa Pinto (1877-1879), who crossed the continent by a new route from' Benguela to the Upper Zambesi; Thomson (1878-1884), who opened up many new routes in Eastern Africa; Grenfell (1884-1885), who worked in the Congo basin on the M'Bangi; and Binger (1887-1889), who corrected many ideas about the Upper Niger basin and dissolved the idea of the Kong Mountain range. In a continent as sparsely settled as Africa, there is still a vast amount of geographical work to be done, but the movement of exploration which Livingstone did most to inspire has been almost completed. The movement of exploration has been accompanied by the movement of political partitionment and absorp- tion. Until Livingstone had died and Stanley's work had INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. xxiii beguii; Europe had shown no zeal to appropriate Africa. From 1815 to 1875 it had extended its influence, but only slowly. There was as yet no eager rush to stake off the continent. Germany had not set foot upon it as a col- onizing power, and France alone seemed anxious to absorb fresh territories. When Stanley pierced the interior and discovered the great w^aterway of the Congo, European interest awoke, and in 1884 the entrance of Germany precipitated the scramble for the continent. Many causes had led to the German desire for colonies and for annexa- tion of territory; and by 1884, the condition of the coun- try at home and its need of markets abroad brought it on the stage as one of the great colonizing nations, and produced in Africa a situation like that produced by Ger- many in her annexation policy fifteen years later in China. It is an interesting parallel also that the first raising of the flag of Germany on the soil of Africa grew out of the need of protecting the Rhenish missionaries in Namaqualand. Germany's first venture led to considerable difficulty with Great Britain, no one perceiving as yet that the scramble for Africa had begun, and that there could be no more of the easy-going methods which had hitherto prevailed. Once started, Germany pressed on, absorbing Toga Land in the Gulf of Guinea, a huge section just above the equa- tor in Kamerun, enlarged by the recent arrangement with France, and last of all, a yet greater slice in East Africa running inland from Zanzibar to the great lakes, most of these gains being made at the expense of Great Britain, or in districts where Great Britain would have inevitably established herself if Germany had not forestalled her. xxiv INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. The rush of German expansion swept with it Great Britain^ France, Italy, and Belgium, and fixed the claims of Portugal and Spain. The Berlin Conference of 1884 and 1885 relieved the problem which arose of some of its perils. It disposed of Portugal's titles to vast tracts which it claimed, the Conference contending that occupation on the coast in order to be valid must be effective, and that the various Powers participating in the Conference must be notified in the event of any new occupation. The Conference also dealt with the questions of the Congo region and of freedom of navigation on the Niger, and it was determined to establish in the heart of Africa the Congo Free State. Not to go into detail in the long and intricate story of the partition of Africa, it is enough to say that now of its 11,512,000 square miles France controls nearly 4,000,000, Great Britain 2,750,000, not including Egypt and w^hat is now the Egyptian or British Sudan, which would add 1,000,000 square miles more, Portugal about 800,000, Spain a little less than 200,000, Germany over 1,000,- 000 and Italy 500,000, and that practically nothing is left of independent Africa. The absorption of Morocco by France and of Tripoli by Italy within the memory of all leaves Abyssinia and Liberia the only free African states. The political changes in Africa since Livingstone^s day have embraced far more than its political partitionment. They include also the founding of the Congo Free State, the occupation of Egypt by Great Britain, the uprising and the downfall of the Mahdi and the Khalifa, with INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. xxv the tragic fate of Chinese Gordon, whom the London Times called "the most conspicuous Englishman of his time/' the British wars in South Africa with the natives and the Boers which have ended in the Union of South Africa, with an area four times that of the United King- dom, embracing Cape Colony, the Orange Free State, the Transvaal, and Natal, and including also Basutoland and Swaziland. The beginnings of the conflict between British and Boer, now settled at last, were a familiar part of David Livingstone's problem when he first came to Africa. No one would pretend to say that all of these y political changes in Africa were made intentionally in the interest of the African people. Nevertheless, it is unde- niable that it has been for the good of Africa to pass under the control of the civilized Powers, who could give to the African races a government which they could neither es- tablish nor maintain for themselves^) The political partitionment of Africa facilitated an- other movement which held a chief place in Livingstone's mind, namely, the suppression of the slave-trade. As far back as 1441 slaves were brought from Africa to Europe. When the New World was opened the traffic was im- mensely enlarged, and in the one hundred years preced- ing 1786 the number of slaves imported into British col- onies exceeded 2,000,000. Even as late as 1830, 250,000 slaves were exported every year from Africa by Christian states. Long before this, however, opposition to the trade had sprung up. In 1772 the Lord Chief Justice of Eng- land, Mansfield, ruled, ''As soon as any slave sets his foot on English ground he becomes free." In 1807 the slave- xxvi INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. trade was declared illegal for all British subjects, and in the same year the United States forbade the further in- troduction of slaves. In 1834, Great Britain abolished her West Indian slavery, leaving Latin America as the only market for African slaves in the Western Hemisphere. And even Spanish and Portuguese possessions were no longer a legitimate market, for in 1815 a Congress of the Powers in Vienna, and another in 1822, at Verona, had declared that the trade was repugnant to humanity, and that it must be abolished. Such simple declarations failing to stop the traffic, it was agreed by the Powers in the Treaty of 1841 'Ho prohibit all trade in slaves under their respective flags, to declare such traffic piracy, and to grant under certain conditions the reciprocal right of search of their respective merchant-vessels by their ships of war." The following year, by the Ashburton Treaty, Great Britain and the United States agreed to maintain jointly a naval force on the African coast, to intercept and capture slave ships. By this means and by "the abolition of slavery in all countries professing the Chris- tian religion,'' as Lord Vivian said at the Brussels Con- ference of 1889-1890, the Transatlantic slave-trade, the horror of which was a disgrace to civilization, entirely ceased. While the slave-trade under Christian nations decreased until it died, the Mohammedan trade grew steadily during the first part of the last century. The cessation of white slavery in Turkey, the rise of the Senusi, and the trans- formation of the FuUah shepherds into Moslem warriors and their consequent jehads or religious wars, in which INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION, xxvii the enslavement of unbelievers is a meritorious thing, and the commercial conditions of the caravan trade, were among the causes of the increase of the Moslem traffic. The Moslem traders have devastated three great regions : the West Sudan, whose caravans moved north to Tripoli, the East Sudan, whose victims have been taken to Mecca, the great Mohammedan slave mart, and East Africa, whose ports of embarkation were Pemba and Zanzibar. It was this traffic in East Africa whose horrors Living- stone saw. He was in Africa as an explorer, but the real end of his exploration was the moral elevation of the people. The natives themselves realized that he had ends far beyond those of mere exploration. In November, 1871, he wrote : ^*They all treat me with respect, and are very much afraid of being written against; but they consider the sources of the Nile to be a sham; the true object of my beiQg sent is to see their odious system of slaving, and if indeed my disclosures should lead to the suppression of the East Coast slave-trade, I would esteem that as a far greater feat than the discovery of all the sources together. It is awful, but I cannot speak of the slaving for fear of appearing guilty of exaggerating. It is not trading; it is murder- ing for captives to be made into slaves." In August, 1872, he wrote to his daughter Agnes: "No one can estimate the amount of God-pleasing good that will be done, if, by Divine favor, this awiPul slave- trade, into the midst of which I have come, be abolished. This will be something to have lived for, and the convic- tion has grown in my mind that it was /or this end I have been detained so long." xxviii INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. And in December, 1872, he wrote to his brother in Canada: r~ '^If the good Lord permits me to put a stop to the enormous evils of the inland slave-trade, I shall not grudge my hunger and toils. I shall bless His name with all my heart. The Nile sources are valuable to me only as a means of enabling me to open my mouth with power among men. It is this power I hope to apply to remedy an enormous evil, and join my poor little helping hand in the enormous revolution that in His all-embracing Providence He has been carrying on for ages, and is now actually helping forward. Men may think I covet fame, but I make it a rule never to read aught written in my praise." Both Livingstone and Stanley regarded slavery as the great blight which had retarded and destroyed Africa. "The constant himting of man by man kept the whole country in a state of unrest," says Sir Harry H. Johnston. "Each native felt that at any moment his people might be attacked by another tribe, have their homes broken up and their wives and children sold. Consequently, even now, except when they are settled near Europeans, they lead a hand-to-mouth existence, just growing enough food for the support of their small community, and not daring to venture on an}^ enterprise or industry which might at- tract the cupidity of others." The institution of slavery was economically ruinous. Morally it debased even the primitive society of Africa. Its wrongs and cruelties ap- pealed for redress to every honorable and kindly instinct in humanity. Livingstone called aloud against it but INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. xxix died without seeing any hope of its extinction. But his voice had already cried its doom. As Punch said when his body was brought home to England: " He knew not that the trumpet he had blown Out of the darkness of that dismal land, Had reached and roused an army of its own To strike the chains from the slave's fettered hand. "Now we believe, he knows, sees all is well; How God had stayed his will and shaped his way. To bring the light to those that darkling dwell With gains that Hfe's devotion well repay." Stanley carried forward the struggle against the traffic, and the extension of European control over the continent has slowly throttled it. The trade is not entirely extinct, but what is left is surreptitious. The institution, how- ever, is by no means extinct and only a long education will make Africa a land of free men. Livingstone and Stanley, preceding civilization, pre- ceded not only the extirpation of the slave-trade, which civilization condemns, but also the introduction of the liquor traffic, which civilization requires. As Africa was opened the liquor trade, economically as wasteful as sla- very, poured in. ( In 1884 the imports from Great Britain, America, Portugal, and Germany were 8,751,527 gallons, of which 7,136,263 came from Germany and 921,412 from America. The imports in 1901 into British West Africa alone were 2,319,731 gallons of gin and 1,834,514 gallons of rum and whiskey. So firmly fixed has the cruel habit become that in some parts of Africa gin is the only cur- rency. And no currency equals it in corrupting power. It XXX INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION, ruins the Africans physically, enslaves whole villages, men, women and children, and in the end it is as surely the death of trade as the slave traffic itself. Some of the most bitter denunciations of it, accordingly, have come from the better class of traders and from Government officials. "It is my sincere belief," declared Sir Richard Burton, "that if the slave-trade were revived with all its horrors, and Africa could get rid of the white man with the gun- powder and rum which he has introduced, Africa would be the gainer by the exchange.'^ But both the cupidity of the traders and the easy revenue which governments secured from the traffic argued for the business. On the other hand, "the David Livingstone spirit," as Stanley called it, fought sturdily and successfully against it. Un- der its influence the Berlin Conference of 1884 declared: "The Powers represented at the Conference desiring that the indigenous population may be guarded against the evils arising from the abuse of strong drinks, avow their wish that an agreement may be established between them to regulate the difficulties which might arise on this subject in such a manner as to conciliate the rights of humanity with the interests of commerce, in so far as these interests may be legitimate." At the Brussels Slave Trade Conference in 1889-1890, the subject came up again, missionary bodies having kept it before the nations, and a great zone was marked off between the twentieth degree of north latitude and the twenty-second degree of south latitude and the Atlan- tic and Indian oceans, with dependencies and islands within one hundred miles of the shore, and it was agreed INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. xxxi that within that zone, wherever, either on account of re- Hgious behef or from other motives, the use of distilled liquors did not exist or had not been developed, the Pow- ers should prohibit their importation and manufacture, save for the consumption of foreigners. It was also agreed that a certain import duty should be levied throughout this whole zone upon liquors introduced into territories from which the foregoing provisions did not exclude them. A second conference at Brussels was held in 1899, and it was then decided to maintain the existing zones of prohi- bition, to increase the duties where imports were allowed, and to hold another conference in six years for further revision; and the conference expressed the hope that each Power would take steps to prevent the spread of the traffic by means of railways and improved means of com- munication. Further progress has been made in the last decade, but in 1908 the imports into Southern Nigeria alone were 2,767,629 gallons. There is still work for the spirit of Livingstone to do. The work of Livingstone and Stanley was the neces- sary preliminary also to the commercial development which has followed. The Cape-to-Cairo railroad now runs 2,400 miles north from the Cape and 1,300 miles south from Cairo, and there are more than thirty other lines of railway with a mileage of 23,000. There were only three short lines of railroad in Africa in 1872 : in Egypt, Cape Colony, and Algeria. The first diamonds in South Africa were found in 1867 and the great rush to the Kimberley mines began in 1870. " The Statesman's Year Book ' ' says that the total export of diamonds from the Cape from the xxxii INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. date of their discovery until 1909 was £153,856,299. In 1885 the gold fields were discovered and the Transvaal alone has yielded since then in gold not less than £324,- 996,952. But the rush for Africans diamonds and gold was an activity belonging to a different world from that in which Livingstone and Stanley lived when they stood grasping each other's hands at Unyanyembe in March, 1872. Their unpaid toil for love of Africa went before and stands far apart from the struggle for Africa's quick wealth. ^ One other movement remains which was dearer to Liv- ingstone than any other. He went to Africa as a mission- ary, and while his connection with the London Missionary Society ceased in 1857, he never ceased to be a mission- ary in his spirit and purpose and in the manner of his life. These are diary entries on his last two birthdays: " 1872. My Jesus, my King, my Life, my All; I again dedicate my whole self to Thee. Accept me, and grant, O gracious Father, that ere this year is gone I may finish my task. In Jesus' name I ask it. Amen. So let it be.'^ " 1873. Thanks to the Almighty Preserver of men for sparing me thus far on the journey of life. Can I hope for ultimate success? So many obstacles have arisen. Let not Satan prevail over me, my good Lord Jesus." On his gravestone in Westminster Abbey it is recog- nized that he never gave over his distinctive and pre- dominant missionary character: "For thirty years his life was spent in an unwearied effort to evangelize the native races, to explore the undis- covered secrets, and abolish the desolating slave trade of Central Africa." INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION, xxxiii In nothing would Livingstone and Stanley more re- joice than in the changed conditions and prospects of Christian missions in Africa. The most notable and suc- cessful of them all, the mission in Uganda, was in a real sense founded by Stanley. Almost equal to it in success and perhaps surpassing it in influence is the Livingstonia Mission, named after the explorer, on the shores of Lake Nyassa. Almost every Church in Christendom has fol- lowed in the wake of Livingstone and Stanley in the effort to redeem Africa, and the work of the explorer has faded, as Livingstone contended that it should, into the enter- prise of the missionary. And often, as in Livingstone's own case, the two have gone hand in hand, so much so that "when the history of the great African states comes to be written, '^ as Sir Harry H. Johnston says, "the arrival of the first missionar}^ will with many of these new na- tions be the first historical event in their annals." With how many of these nations will that name be David Liv- ingstone's? Stanley constantly spoke of the great land he was open- ing up as "the dark continent." He was not referring to the dense forests in which for months he wandered, nor to long nights, but to the intellectual and moral and spir- itual shadow which rested upon this great mass of pagan- ism, the darkest pictures of which, James Stewart of Lovedale said, and he knew it as well as any man and viewed it with kindness and love, are not overdrawn. "The poorness and hardness, narrowness and joyless- ness of human existence in paganism, in Central Africa at least," adds Stewart, "must be seen to be understood. xxxiv INTRODUCTION TO THE CENTENARY EDITION. I am not putting together mere terms to produce a false effect. I am thinking of men I have known ; whose names I remember; whose faces I can recall now; and whose life-weary expression is still before me. And now and again I ask if they are living or dead; and if dead, what they thought when they passed from a pagan world, where all to them was morally dark, into that unseen world where all is light?'' These were the men whose hands Livingstone and Stanley saw ever stretched out, for whom they toiled and whose mute appeal they voiced to humanity. '* To lift the sombre fringes of the night, To open lands long darkened to the light. To heal grim wounds, to give the blind new sight Right mightily wrought they. '* They passed like light across the darkened land. And dying, left behind them this command, 'The doors are open. So let them ever stand.'" So have they stood and through them have slowly passed the great influences which are some day to make darkest Africa light. ROBERT E. SPEER. INTRODUCTORY. ' On the sixteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, I am in Madrid, fresh from the carnage at Yalencia. At 10 a.m. Jacopo, at No. — Calle de la Cruz, hands me a telegram : on opening it I find it reads, " Come to Paris on important business." The telegram is from Jas. Gordon Bennett, jun., the young manager of the " New York Herald."J Down come my pictures from the walls of my apart- ments on the second floor ; into my trunks go my books and souvenirs, my clothes are hastily collected, some half washed, some from the clothes-line half dry, and after a couple of hours of hasty hard work my portmanteaus are strapped up, and labelled for " Paris." The express-train leaves Madrid for Hendaye at 3 P.M. I have yet time to say farewell to my friends. I have one at No. 6 Calle Goya, fourth floor, who happens to be a contributor to several London dailies. He has several children, in whom I have taken a warm r xxxvi INTRODUCTORY, interest. Little Charlie and Willie are fast friends of mine ; they love to hear of my adventures, and it has been a pleasure to me to talk to them. But now I must say farewell. Then I have friends at the United States Legation whose conversation I admire — there has come a sudden ending of it all. " I hope you will write to us, we shall always be glad to hear of your welfare." How often have I not during my feverish life as a flying journalist heard the very same words, and how often have I not suffered the same pang at parting from friends just as warm as these. But a journalist in my position must needs suffer. Like a gladiator in the arena, he must be prepared foi the combat. Any flinching, any cowardice, and he is lost. The gladiator meets the sword that is sharpened for his bosom — the flying journalist or roving corre- spondent meets the command that may send him to his doom. To the battle or the banquet it is ever the same — " Get ready and go." At 3 P.M. I was on my way, and being obliged to stop at Bayonne a few hours, did not arrive at Paris until the following night. I went straight to the " Grand Hotel," and knocked at the door of Mr. Bennett's room. " Come in," I heard a voice say. Entering, I found Mr. Bennett in bed. " Who are you T he asked. ** My name is Stanley I" I answered. INTRODUCTORY, xxxvii " Ah, yes ! sit down ; I have important business ott hand for you." After throwing over his shoulders his robe-de-chambre, Mr. Bennett asked, " Where do you think Living- stone is T " I really do not know, sir !" " Do you think he is alive ?" " He may be, and he may not be !" I answered. " Well, I think he is alive, and that he can be found, and I am going to send you to find him." " What !" said I, " do you really think I can find Dr. Livingstone ? Do you mean me to go to Central Africa ?" " Yes ; I mean that you shall go, and find him wherever you may hear that he is, and to get what news you can of him, and perhaps" — delivering himself thoughtfully and deliberately—" the old man may be in want : — take enough with you to help him should ho require it. Of course you will act according to your own plans, and do what you think best — but find Livingstone \) Said I, wondering at the cool order of sending one to Central Africa to search for a man whom I, in common with almost all other men, believed to be dead, *' have you considered seriously the great expense you are likely to incur on account of this little journey ?" " What will it cost ?" he asked, abruptly. " Burton and Speke's journey to Central Africa cost between £3,000 and £5,000, and I fear it cannot be done under £2,500." / xxxviii INTRODUCTORY, r "Well, I will tell you what you will do. Draw a thousand pounds now; and when you have gone through that, draw another thousand, and when that is spent, draw another thousand, and when you have finished that, draw another thousand, and so on ; but, FIND LiVINGSTONEj Surprised but not confused at the order, for I knew that Mr. Bennett when once he had made up his mind was not easily drawn aside from his purpose, I yet thought, seeing it was such a gigantic scheme, that he had not quite considered in his own mind the pros and cons of the case ; I said, " I have heard that should your father die you would sell the ' Herald ' and retire from business." " Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not money enough in New York city to buy the ' New York Herald.' My father has made it a great paper, but I mean to make it greater. I mean that it shall be a news paper in the true sense of the word. I mean that it shall publish whatever news will be interesting to the world at no matter what cost." " After that," said I, " I have nothing more to say. Do you mean me to go straight on to Africa to search for Dr. Livingstone ?" " No ! I wish you to go to the inauguration of the Suez Canal first and then proceed up the Nile. I hear Baker is about starting for Upper Egypt. Find out what you can about his expedition, and as you go up describe as well as possible whatever is interesting for INTRODUCTOBY. xxxix tourists ; and then write up a guide — a practical one — for Lower Egypt, tell us about whatever is worth seeing and how to see it. " Then you might as well go to Jerusalem ; I hear Captain Warren is making some interesting discoveries there. Then visit Constantinople, and find out about that trouble between the Khedive and the Sultan. " Then — let me see — you might as well visit the Crimea and those old battle-grounds. Then go across the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea, I hear there is a Russian expedition bound for Khiva. From thence you may get through Persia to India ; you could write an interesting letter from Persepolis. " Bagdad will be close on your way to India ; suppose you go there, and write up something about the Eu- phrates Yalley Railway. Then, when you have come to India, you can go after Livingstone, Probably you will hear by that time that Livingstone is on his way to Zanzibar ; but if not, go into the interior and find him, if alive. Get what news of his discoveries you can ; and, if you find he is dead, bring all possible proofs of his being dead. That is all. Good-night, and God be with you." ** Good-night, sir," I said ; " what it is in the power of human nature to do I will do ; and on such an errand as I go upon, God will be with me." I lodged with young Edward King, who is making Buch a name in New England. He was just the man who would have delighted to tell the Journal he was xl INTBODUCTORY, engaged upon what young Mr. Bennett was doing, and what errand I was bound upon. I should have liked to exchange opinions with him upon the probable results of my journey, but I dared not do so. Though oppressed with the great task before me, I had to appear as if only going to be present at the Suez Canal. Young King followed me to the express-train bound for Marseilles, and at the station we parted — he to go, and read the newspapers at Bowles' Reading-room— I to Central Africa and — who knows ? There is no need to recapitulate what I did before going to Central Africa. I went up the Nile, and saw Mr. Higginbotham, chief-engineer in Baker's Expedition, at Philae, and was the means of preventing a duel between him and a mad young Frenchman, who wanted to fight Mr. Hig- ginbotham with pistols, because that gentleman re- sented the idea of being taken for an Egyptian, through wearing a fez cap. I had a talk with Capt. Warren at Jerusalem, and descended one of the pits with a sergeant of engineers to see the marks of the Tyrian workmen on the foundation stones of the Temple of Solomon. I visited the mosques of Stamboul with the Minister Resident of the United States, and the American Consul Greneral. I travelled over the Crimean battle-grounds with Kinglake's glorious books for reference in my hand. I dined with the widow of General Liprandi at Odessa. I saw the Arabian INTRODUCTORY. xU traveller Palgrave at Trebizond, and Baron Nicolay, the Civil Governor of the Caucasus, at Tiflis. I lived with the Russian Ambassador while at Teheran, and wherever I went through Persia I received the most hoepitable welcome from the gentlemen of the Indo- European Telegraph Company; and following the examples of many illustrious men, I wrote my name tjpon one of the Persepolitan monuments. In the month of August, 1870, 1 arrived in India. On the 12th of October I sailed on the barque " Polly " from Bombay to Mauritius. As the " Polly " was a slow sailer, the passage lasted thirty-seven days. On board this barque was a William Lawrence Farqnhar — hailing from Leith, Scotland — in the ca- pacity of first-mate. He was an excellent navigator, and thinking he might be useful to me, I employed him ; his pay to begin from the date we should leave Zanzibar for Bagamoyo. As there was no opportunity of getting to Zanzibar direct, I took ship to Seychelles. Three or four days after arriving at Mah^, one of the Seychelles group, I was fortunate enough to get a passage for myself, William Lawrence Farquhar, and Selim — a Christian Arab boy of Jerusalem, who was to act as interpreter — on board an American whaling vessel, bound for Zanzibar, at which port we arrived on the 6th of January, 1871. I have skimmed over my travels thus far, because these do not concern the reader. They led over many lands, but this book is only a narrative of my search xlii INTRODUCTORT after Livingstone, the great African traveller. It is an Icarian flight of journalism, I confess; some even have called it Quixotic ; but this is a word I can now refute, as will be seen before the reader arrives at the " Finis." I have used the word " soldiers " in this book. The armed escort a traveller engages to accompany him into East Africa is composed of free black men, natives of Zanzibar, or freed slaves from the interior, who call themselves " askari," an Indian name which, translated, means ** soldiers." They are armed and equipped like soldiers, though they engage themselves also as ser- vants ; but it would be more pretentious in me to call them servants, than to use the word " soldiers ;" and as I have been ifiore in the habit of calling them soldiers, than my watuma — servants — this habit has proved too much to be overcome. I have therefore allowed the word " soldiers " to appejir, accompanied, however, with this apology. I have also used the personal pronoun first person singular, " I," oftener, perhaps, than real modesty would admit. But it must be remembered that I am writing a narrative of my own adventures and travels, and that until I meet Livingstone, I presume the greatest interest is attached to myself, my marches, my troubles, my thoughts, and my impressions. Yet though I may sometimes write, " my expedition," or '' my caravan," it by no means follows that I arrogate to myself this INTRODUGTOBY, xliii right. For it must be distinctly understood that it is the '* * New York Herald ' Expedition," and that I am only charged with its command by Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the * New York Herald,' as a salaried employe of that gentleman. One thing more ; I have adopted the narrative form of relating the story of the search, on account of the greater interest it appears to possess over the diary form, and I think that in this manner I avoid the great fault of repetition for which some travellers have been severely criticised. Having explained so much, I do not think it neces- sary to say any more in the Introduction, and shall therefore commence my nariative. HENEY M. STANLEY • 8^ Duchess Street, Portland Plao$, London, Oekim', 1872. f.r«rdl« Siert* HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. CHAPTER I, ZANZIBAR. One of the fruitfiilest islands of the Indian Ocean is Zanzibar. When I left Bombay for the purpose of leading the 'New York Herald' expedition into the unknown heart of Africa, my abstract conception of the island was that it was but a little better than a great sandbar, or a patch of Sahara, with a limited oasis or two, surrounded by the sea, rife with cholera, fever, and nameless but dreadful diseases ; populated by ignorant blacks, with great thick lips, whose general appearance might be compared to Du Chaillu's gorillas, who were ruled over by a despotic and surly Arab. How it had become thus distorted in my imagina- tion I cannot conceive. I had read books and articles on Zanzibar, which were by no means unfavourably disposed towards it, yet it floated in my brain as an island whose total submersion in the sea would benefit the world. I am not certain, but I think I caught the idea from Capt. Burton's 'Lake Regions of Central Africa,' along with many other eccentric ideas. The whole book, although wonderfully clever and truthful, B t sow I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. is somewhat bilious in tone, and I think its effect was manifest in me by a rush of a part of its bile into my head, for while I read it I saw a lethal stream, which drifted with me towards the eternal feverish region of Africa, from which a sickening presentiment said there was no return. But hail! to the blessed dawn that dispels the dreadful dream under which you groaned in agony throughout the night. Hail ! to the letter that brings good news, and hail ! to the verdant shores of Zanzibar, that said to me^ " Hope ; things are seldom so bad as they are painted." It was in the early morning that I sailed through the channel that separates Zanzibar from Africa. The high lands of the continent loomed like a lengthening shadow in the grey of dawn. The island lay on our left, distant but a mile, coming out of its shroud of foggy folds, bit by bit as the day advanced, until it finally rose clearly into view, as fair in appearance as the fairest of the gems of creation. It appeared low, but not flat; there were gentle elevations cropping hither and yon above the languid but graceful tops of the cocoa-trees that lined the margin of the island, and there were depressions visible at agreeable intervals, to indicate where a cool gloom might be found by those who sought relief from a hot sun. With the excep- tion of the thin line of sand, over which the sap-green water rolled itself with a constant murmur and moan, the island seemed buried under one deep stratum of verdure. The noble bosom of the strait bore several dhows, speeding in and out of the bay of Zanzibar with bellying sails. Towards the south, above the sea line of the horizon, there appeared the naked masts of several large ships, and to the east of these a dense mass of i. Ji. 1871.] ZANZIBAR. 8 wnite, flat-topped houses. This was Zanzibar, the capital of the island ; — which soon resolved itself into a pretty large and compact city, with all the characteristics of Arab architecture. Above some of the largest houses lining the bay front of the city streamed the blood-red banner of the Sultan^ Syed Burghash, and the flags of the American, English, North German Confederation, and French Consulates. In the harbor were thirteen large ships, four Zanzibar men-of-war, one English man-of- war — the " Nymphe," two American, one French, one Portuguese, two English, and two German merchantmen, besides numerous dhows hailing from Johanna and Mayotte of the Comoro Islands, dhows from Muscat and Cutch — traders between India, the Persian Gulf, and Zanzibar. It was with the spirit of true hospitality and courtesy that Capt. Francis E. Webb, United States Consul, (formerly of the United States Navy,) received me. Had this gentleman not rendered me such needful service, I must have condescended to take board and lodging at a house known as " Charley's," called after the proprietor, who is a Frenchman with a crooked nose, and withal very eccentric, who has won con- siderable local notoriety for harboring penniless itine- rants, and manifesting a kindly spirit always, though hidden under such a rugged front ; or I should have been obliged to pitch my doubled- clothed American drill tent on the sandbeach of this tropical island, an in-no-wise desirable thing. But Capt. Webb's opportune proposal to make his commodious and comfortable house my own ; to enjoy myself, with the request that I would call for whatever I might require, obviated all unpleasant alternatives. One day's life at Zanzibar, mad© me thoroughly B 2 4 BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. C50^scious of my ignorance respecting African people and things in general. I imagined I had read Burton and Speke through, fairly well, and that consequently I had penetrated the meaning, the full importance and grandeur, of the work I was about to be engaged upon. But my estimates, for instance, based upon book in- formation, were simply ridiculous, — fanciful images of African attractions were soon dissipated, anticipated pleasures vanished, and all crude ideas began to resolve themselves into shape. I strolled through the city. My general impressions are of crooked, narrow lanes, white-washed houses, mortar-plastered streets, in the clean quarter ; — of seeing alcoves on each side, with deep recesses, with a fore- ground of red-turbaned Banyans, and a back-ground of flimsy cottons, prints, calicoes, domestics and what not ; or of floors crowded with ivory tusks ; or of dark corners with a pile of unginned and loose cotton ; or of stores of crockery, nails, cheap Brummagem ware, tools, &c., in what I call the Banyan quarter ; — of streets smelling very strong — in fact, exceedingly malodorous, with steaming yellow and black bodies, and woolly heads, sitting at the doors of miserable huts, chatting, laughing, bargaining, scolding, with a compound smell of hides, tar, filth, vegetable refuse, excrement, &c., in the negro quarter ; — of streets lined with tall, solid looking houses, flat roofed, of great carved doors with large brass knockers, with baabs * sitting cross-legged watch- ing the dark entrance to their masters' houses ; of a shallow sea-inlet, with some dhows, canoes, boats, an odd steam-tug or two, leaning over on their sides in a sea of mud which the tide has just left behind it ; of a place called " Nazi-Moya," " One Cocoa-tree," whither * Porters. Jan. 1871.] ZANZIBAB. 6 Europeans wend on evenings with most languid, mori- bund steps, to inhale the sweet air that glides over the sea, while the day is dying, and the red sun is sinking westward ; of a few graves of dead sailors, who paid the forfeit of their lives upon arrival in this land ; of a tall house wherein lives Dr. Tozer, " Missionary Bishop of Central Africa," and his school of little Africans; and of many other things, which got together into such a tangle, that I had to go to sleep, lest I should never be able to separate the moving images, the Arab from the African ; the African from the Banyan ; the Banyan from the Hindi ; the Hindi from the European, &c. Zanzibar is the Bagdad, the Ispahan, the Stamboul, if you like, of East Africa. It is the great mart which invites the ivory traders from the African interior. To this market come the gum-copal, the hides, the or- chilla, the timber, and the black slaves from Africa. Bagdad had great silk bazaars, Zanzibar has her ivory bazaars ; Bagdad once traded in jewels, Zanzibar trades in gum-copal ; Stamboul imported Circassian and Geor- gian slaves; Zanzibar imports black beauties from Uhiyow, Ugindo, Ugogo, Unyamwezi and Galla. The same mode of commerce obtains here as in all Mohammedan countries — nay, the mode was in vogue long before Moses was born. The Arab never changes. He brought the custom of his forefathers with him when he came to live on this island. He is as much of an Arab here, as at Muscat or Bagdad ; wherever he goes to live, he carries with him his harem, his religion, his long robe, his shirt, his watta,* and his dagger. If he penetrates Africa, not all the ridicule of the negroes can make him change his modes of life. Yet the land has not become Oriental ; the Arab has not been able to change * Slippers. I HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. the atmosphere. The land is semi-African in aspect ; the city is but semi- Arabian. To a new-comer into Africa, the Muscat Arabs of Zanzibar are studies. There is a certain empressement about them, which we must admire. They are mostly all travellers. There are but few of them, that have not been in many dangerous positions, as they pene- trated Central Africa in search of the precious ivory ; and these, with their various experiences, have given their features a certain unmistakeable air of self- reliance, or of self-sufficiency ; there is a calm, resolute, defiant, independent air about them, which wins un- consciously one's respect. The stories that some of these men could tell, I have often thought would fill many a book of thrilling adventures. For the half-castes I have great contempt. They are neither black nor white, neither good nor bad, neither to be admired nor hated. They are all things, at all times, they are always fawning on the great Arabs, and always cruel to those unfortunates brought under their yoke. Tf I saw a miserable, half-starved negro, I was always sure to be told, he belonged to a half-caste. Cringing and hypocritical, cowardly and debased, treacherous and mean, I have always found him. He seems to be for ever ready to fall down and worship a rich Arab, but is relentless to a poor black slave. When he swears most, you may be sure he lies most, and yet this is the breed which is multiplied most at Zanizibar — this syphilitic, blear-eyed, pallid-skinned, abortion of an Africanized Arab, j The Banyan is a born trader^ the beau-ideal of a sharp money-making man. Money flows to his pockets as naturally as water down a steep. No pang of con- Bcience will prevent him from cheating his fellow man. Jan. 1871.] ZANZIBAR. 1 He excek a Jew, and his only rival in a market is a Parsee ; an Arab is a babe to him. It is worth money to see him labour with all his energy, soul, and body, to gel advantage by the smallest fraction of a coin over a native. Possibly the native has a tusk, and it may weigh a couple of frasilahs, but, though the scales indicate the weight, and the native declares solemnly that it must be more than two frasilahs, yet our Banyan will asseverate, and aver, and declare, and vow, that the native knows nothing whatever about it, and that the scales are wrong; he musters up courage to lift it, it is a mere song, not much more than a frasilah. *' Come," he will say, " close, man, take the money and go thy way. Art thou mad ? " If the native hesitates, he will scream in a fury ; he pushes him about, spurns the ivory with contemptuous indifference, — never was such ado about nothing; but, though he tells the astounded native to be up and going, he never intends the ivory shall leave his shop. The Banyans exercise, of all other classes, most influence on the trade of Central Africa. With the ex- ception of a very few rich Arabs, almost all other traders are subject to the pains and penalties which usury imposes. A trader desirous to make a journey into the interior, whether for slaves or ivory, gum-copal, or orchilla weed, proposes to a Banyan to advance him $5,000 at 50, 60, or 70 per cent, interest. The Banyan is safe enough not to lose, whether the speculation the trader is engaged upon pays or not. An experienced trader seldom loses, or if he has been unfortunate, through no deed of his own, he does not lose credit ; with the help of the Banyan, he is easily set on his feet again. We will suppose, for the sake of illustrating how V 8 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, trade with the interior is managed, that the Arab conveys by his caravan $5,000 worth of goods into the interior. At XJnyanyembe the goods are worth $10,000 ; at XJjiji, they are worth $15,000 : ^they have trebled in price. Five doti, oi $7*50, will purchase a slave in tbe markets of Ujiji that will fetch in Zanzibar $30*00. Ordinary men-slaves may be purchased for $6-00 which would sell for $25*00 on the coast. We will say he purchases slaves to the full extent of his means — after deducting $1,500 expenses of carriage to Ujiji and back — viz. $3,500, the slaves — 464 in number, at $7*50 per head — would realize $13,920 at Zanzibar! Again, let us illustrate trade in ivory. A merchant takes $5,000 to Ujiji, and after deducting $1,500 for expenses to Ujiji, and back to Zanzibar, has still remain- ing $3,500 in cloth and beads, with which he purchases ivory. At Ujiji ivory is bought at $20 the frasilah, or 35 lbs., by which he is enabled with $3,500 to collect 175 frasilahs, which if good ivory is worth about $60 per frasilah at Zanzibar. The merchant thus finds that he has realized $10,500 net profit! Arab traders have often done better than this, but they almost always have come back with an enormous margin of profit. The next people to the Banyans in power in Zanzi- bar are the Mohammedan Hindis. Eeally it has been a debateable subject in my mind whether the Hindis are not as wickedly determined to cheat in trade, as the Banyans. But, if 1 have conceded the palm to the latter, it has been done very reluctantly. This tribe of Indians can produce scores of unconscionable rascals where they can show but one honest merchant. One of the honestest among men, white or black, red or yellow, is a Mohammedan Hindi called Tarya Topan, Jan. 1871.] ZANZIBAB. 6 Among the Europeans at Zanzibar, he has become a proverb for honesty, and strict business integrity. He is enormously wealthy, owns several ships and dhows, and is a prominent man in the councils of Syed Burghash. Tarya has many children, two or three of whom are grown-up sons, whom he has reared up even as he is himself. But Tarya is but a representative of an exceedingly small minority. The -Arabs, the Banyans, and the Mohammedan Hindis, represent the higher and the middle classes. These classes own the estates, the ships, and the trade. To these classes bow the half-caste and the negro. The next most important people who go to make up the mixed population of this island are the negroes. They consist of the aborigines, Wasawahili, Somalis, Comorines, Wanyamwezi, and a host of tribal repre- sentatives of Inner Africa. To a white stranger about penetrating Africa, it is a most interesting walk through the negro quarters of the AVanyamwezi and the Wasawahili. For here he begins to learn the necessity of admitting that negroes are men, like himself, though of a different colour; that they have passions and prejudices, likes and dislikes, sympathies and antipathies, tastes and feelings, in common with all human nature. The sooner he per- ceives this fact, and adapts himself accordingly, the easier will be his journey among the several races of the interior. The more plastic his nature, the more prosperous will be his travels. Though I had lived some time among the negroes of our Southern States, my education was Northern, and I had met in the United States black men, whom I was proud to call friends. I was thus prepared to admit any 10 BOW I FO UND LIVINGSTONE. black man, possessing the attributes of true manhood, or any good qualities, to my friendship, even to a brotherhood with myself; and to respect him for such, as much as if he were of my own colour and race. Neither his colour, nor any peculiarities of physiognomy should debar him with me from any rights he could fairly claim as a man. " Have these men — ^these black savages from pagan Africa," I asked myself, "the qualitiesi which make man loveable among his fellows ? " " Can these men — ^these barbarians — appreciate kindness or feel resentment like myself ? " was my mental question as I travelled through their quarters and observed their actions. Need I say, that I was much comforted in observing that they were as ready to be influenced by passions, by loves and hates, as I was myself; that the keenest observation failed to detect any great difference between their nature and my own. The negroes of the island probably number two- thirds of the entire population. They compose the working-class, whether enslaved or free. Those en- slaved perform the work required on the plantations, the estates and gardens of the landed proprietors,- or perform the work of hamals or carriers, whether in the country or the city. Outside the city they may be seen carrying huge loads on their heads, as happy as pos- sible, not because they are kindly treated or that their work is light, but because it is their nature to be gay and light-hearted, because they have conceived neither joys nor hopes which may not be gratified at will, nor cherished any ambition beyond their reach, and there- fore have not been baffled in their hopes, nor known disappointment. Within the city, negro hamals may be heard at all hours, in couples, engaged in the transportation of Jan. 187L] ZANZIBAR. 11 clove-bags, boxes of mercbandise, &c., from store to " go-down " and from " go-down " to tbe beach, singing a kind of monotone chant for the encouragement of each other, and for the guiding of their pace as they shuffle through the streets with bare feet. You may- recognise these men readily, before long, as old ac- quaintances, by the consistency with which they sing the tunes they have adopted. Several times during a day have I heard the same couple pass beneath the windows of the Consulate, delivering themselves of the same invariable tune and words. Some might possibl}^ deem the songs foolish and silly, but they had a certain attraction for me, and I considered that they were as useful as anything else for the purposes they were intended. The town of Zanzibar, situate on the south-western shore of the island, contains a population of nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants ; that of the island alto- gether 1 would estimate at not more than two hundred thousand inhabitants, including all races. The greatest number of foreign vessels trading with this port are American, principally from New York and Salem. After the American come the German, then come the French and English. They arrive loaded with American sheeting, brandy, gunpowder, muskets, beads, English cottons, brass-wire, china-ware and other notions, and depart with ivory, gum- copal, cloves, hides, cowries, sesamum, pepper, and cocoa-nut oil. The value of the exports from this port is estimated at $3,000,000, and the imports from all countries at $3,500,000. The Europeans and Americans residing in the town of Zanzibar are either Government officials, independent 12 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, merchants, or agents for a few great mercantile houses in Europe and America. The most important consulate at Zanzibar is the British. The acting British Consul and political resi- dent, when I was at Zanzibar preparing my expedition for the African interior, was Dr. John Kirk. I felt quite a curiosity to see this gentleman, from the fact of his name being so often coupled with the object of my search — Dr. David Livingstone. In almost all newspapers he was mentioned as the " former companion of Dr. Livingstone." I imagined, from the tone of the articles that I saw published, and from his own letters to the Indian Government, that if I could obtain any positive information from any person regarding the whereabouts of Dr. Livingstone I should be able to procure it from Dr. Kirk, It was with feelings of no small impatience, therefore, that I awaited the honour of an introduction to him through Capt. Webb. On the second morning after my arrival at Zanzibar, according to the demands of Zanzibar etiquette, the American Consul and myself sallied out into the street, and in a few moments I was in the presence of this much-befamed man. To a man of rather slim figure, dressed plainly, slightly round-shouldered, hair black, face thin, cheeks rather sunk and bearded, Capt. Webb said, " Dr. Kirk, permit me to introduce Mr. Stanley, of the ' New York Herald.' " I fancied at the moment that he lifted his eyelids perceptibly, disclosing the full circle of the eyes. If I were to define such a look, I would call it a broad stare. During the conversation, which ranged over several subjects, though watching his face intently, I never saw it kindle or become animated but once, and that Jas. 1871.] ZANZIBAB. 18 was while relating some of his hunting feats to ns. As the subject nearest my heart was not entered upon, I promised myself I would ask him about Dr. Livingstone the next time I called upon him. Tuesday evenings " Dr. and Mrs. Kirk are at home," Zanzibarites are informed. The pleasures of those evenings the civilised community of Zanzibar gene- rally ignore, but the representatives of the European colony do visit them nevertheless. This special evening, there was quite a "sprinkling" of the upper-ten-dom. As the American party of visitors arrived early, I was enabled to note how other guests entered into con- versation, and I wondered to hear each and all after the first greeting inquire anxiously of the Consul and his lady, if they had been to " Nazi-Moya " that evening, to which they responded in the negative ; for it hap- pened that they had not extended their recreative walk so far as the classic grounds of Nazi-Moya that par- ticular evening. " Oh," each guest said, in a tone of triumphal and delighted wonderment, " I thought I had not seen you there." ''Where, and what is Nazi-Moya?" I was fain to ask of Capt. Webb. " Nazi-Moya," said this pleasant cynic, " Nazi-Moya means in English, ' One Cocoa-tree ;' it is a rendezvous just behind Ras Shangani (Sandy Point), whither we go on afternoons to enjoy the fresh sea-breeze. It is the usual form of opening a conversation, owing to the terrible dearth of topics just now we have to talk about." Capt. Webb spoke truly when he said there was a ** terrible dearth of topics," and subsequent experience 14 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. proved to me that the good Europeans of Zanzibar, in the absence of legitimate matter, were never slow to avail themselves of the least bit of scandal, in order to make the evenings pleasant and agreeable. The entertainment which the British Consul and his lady provided for the visitors on their reception evening consists of a kind of mild wine and cigars ; not, because they have nothing else in the house — no decoction of bohea, or hyson, with a few cakes — ^but I suppose because it is the normal and accustomed habit of a free Zanzibarized European to indulge in something of this sort, mixed with a little soda or seltzer-water, as a stimulant to the bits of refined gossip, generally pro- mulgated under the vinous influence to sympathizing, interested, and eager listeners. It was all very fine, I dare say, but I thought it was the dreariest evening I ever passed, until Dr. Kirk, pitying the wearisomeness under which I was labouring, called me aside to submit to my inspection a magnificent elephant rifle, which he said was a present from a governor of Bombay. Then I heard eulogies upon its deadly powers and its fatal accuracy ; I heard anecdotes of jungle life, adventures experienced while hunting, and incidents of his travels with Livingstone. " Ah, yes. Dr. Kirk," I asked carelessly, " about Livingstone — where is he, do you think, now?" " Well, really," he replied, '^ you know that is very difficult to answer ; he may be dead ; there is nothing positive whereon we can base sufficient reliance. Of one thing I am sure, nobody has heard anything definite of him for over two years. I should fancy, though, he must be alive. We are continually sending something up for him. There is a small expedition even now at Bagamoyo about starting shortly. I really think the Jah. 1871.] ZANZIBAR, 16 old man should come home now ; he is growing old, you know, and if he died, the world would lose the benefit of his discoveries. He keeps neither notes nor journals ; it is very seldom he takes observations. He simply makes a note or dot, or something, on a map, which nobody could understand but himself. Oh, yes, by all means if he is alive he should come home, and let a younger man take his place." "What kind of a man is he to get along with. Doctor ?'* I asked, feeling now quite interested in his conversation. '* Well^ I think he is a very difficult man to deal with generally. Personally, I have never had a quarrel with him, but I have seen him in hot water with fellows so often, and that is principally the reason, I think, he hates to have any one with him." " I am told he is a very modest man ; is he ? " I asked. " Oh, he knows the value of his own discoveries ; no man better. He is not quite an angel," said he, with a laugh. "Well now, supposing I met him in my travels — I might possibly stumble across him if he travels any- where in the direction I am going — how would he conduct himself towards me ? " " To tell you the truth," said he, " I do not think he would like it very well. I know if Burton, or Grant, or Baker, or any of those fellows were going after him, and he heard of their coming, Livingstone would put a hundred miles of swamp in a very short time between himself and them. I do, upon my word I do." This was the tenor of the interview I held with Dr. Kirk— former companion of Livingstone — as well as my journal and memory can recall it to me. Need I say this information from a gentleman known 16 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. • to be well acquainted with Dr. Livingstone, rather had the effect of damping my ardor for the search, than adding vigor to it. I felt very much depressed, and would willingly have resigned my commission ; but then the order was, "Go and find Livingstone." Besides, I did not suppose, though I had so readily consented to search for the Doctor, that the path to Central Africa was strewn with roses. What though I were rebuked, as an impertinent interloper in the domain of Discovery, as a meddler in things that con- cerned not myself, as one whose absence would be far more acceptable to him than my presence — had I not been commanded to find him ? Well, find him I would, if he were above ground ; if not, then I would bring what concerned people to know, and keep. Dr. Kirk very kindly promised to give all the assist- ance in his power, and whatever experience he possessed he was willing, he said, to give me its full benefit. But I cannot recollect, neither do I find a trace of it in my journal, that he assisted me in any way. Of course, he was not aware that my instruc- tions were to hunt up Dr. Livingstone, otherwise Dr. Kirk, I have no doubt, would have made good his word. He believed I was about to ascend the Rufiji River to its source. But what newspaper would despatch a " special " to discover the sources of an in- significant river like the Rufiji? The climate of Zanzibar is not the most agreeable in the world. I have heard Americans and Europeans condemn it most heartily. I have also seen nearly one- half of the white colony laid up in one day from sick- ness. A noxious malaria is exhaled from the shallow inlet of Malagash, and the undrained filth, the garbage, offal, dead moUusks, dead pariah dogs, dead cats, all Jan. 1871.] ZANZIBAR. 17 species of carrion, remains of men and beasts nnbnried, assist to make Zanzibar a most unhealthy city; and, considering that it ought to be a most healthy city^ nature having pointed out to man the means, and having assisted him so far^ it is most wonderful that the ruling prince does not obey the dictates of reason. The bay of Zanzibar is in the form of a crescent, and on the south-v^estern horn of it is built the city. On the east the city is bounded almost entirely by the Malagash Lagoon, an inlet of the sea. It penetrates to at least two hundred and fifty yards of the sea behind or south of Shangani Point. Were these two hundred and fifty yards cut through by a ten foot ditch^ and the inlet deepened slightly, Zanzibar city would become an island of itself, and what wonders would it not effect as to health and salubrity ! I have never heard this sugges- tion made, but it struck me that the foreign consuls resident at Zanzibar might suggest this work to the sultan^ and so get the credit of having made the city as healthy a place to live in as any near the equator. But apropos of this, I remember what Capt. Webb, the American Consul, told me on my first arrival, when I expressed to him my wonder at the apathy and inert- ness of men born with the indomitable energy which cha- racterizes the Europeans and Americans, of men imbued with the progressive and stirring instincts of the white people, who yet allow themselves to dwindle into pallid phantoms of their kind, into hypochondriacal invalids, into hopeless believers in the deadliness of the climate, with hardly a trace of that daring and invincible spirit which rules the world. " Oh," said Capt, Webb, " it is all very well for you to talk about energy and all that kind of thing, but I assure you that a residence of four or five years on this c 18 HOW I FOUND LIVING STONK island, among such people as are here, would make you feel that it was a hopeless task to resist the influence of the example by which the most energetic spirits are subdued, and to which they must submit in time, sooner or later. We were all terribly energetic wheii we first came here, and struggled bravely to make i hings go on as we were accustomed to have them at home, but we have found that we were knocking our heads against granite walls to no purpose whatever. These fellows — the Arabs, the Banyans, and the Hindis, you can't make them go faster by ever so much scolding and praying, and in a very short time you see the folly of fighting against the unconquerable. Be patient, and don't fret, that is my advice, or you won't live long here." There were three or four intensely busy men, though, at Zanzibar, who were out at all hours of the day. I know one, an American ; I fancy I hear the quick pit-pat of his feet on the pavement beneath the Consulate, his cheery voice ringing the salutation, *' Yambo ! " to every one he met ; and he had lived at Zanzibar twelve years. I know another, one of the sturdiest of Scotchmen, the most pleasant-mannered, unaffected, and sincere in what- ever he did or said, who has lived at Zanzibar several years, subject to the infructuosities of the business he has been engaged in, as well as to the calor and ennui of the climate, who yet presents as formidable a front as ever to the apathetic native of Zanzibar. No man can charge Capt. H. C. Fraser, formerly of the Indian Navy, with being apathetic, whatever else malice may suggest. I might with ease give evidence of the industry of others, but they are all my friends, and they are all good. The American, English, Grermans, and French Jan. 1871.] ZANZIBAR. 19 residents have ever treated me with a courtesy and kindness I am not disposed to forget. Taken as a body, it would be hard to find a more generous or hospitable colony of white men in any part of the world. In a great tall house with a certain grandeur of vast- ness about it, topped with the queerest of all steeples, situated on Shangani Point, Bishop Tozer, his disciples, his choristers and his flock, have found excellent quar- ters. The Bishop, who styles himself *' Missionary Bishop of Central Africa," is one of the politest men lever knew. I believe he is called the " fighting parson " — a plagia- ristic appellation when bestowed on him, since Dr. Livingstone first received it from the Duke of Wellington. Bishop Tozer, however, is said to have fought an insolent rowdy, on his way to church ; and after having punished him at a boxiug-match, offered to punish his com- panions one after another in the same way, which offer was refused. This feat of pugilism by Bishop Tozer converted these wolves into lambs, and won for him the title of Bishop, and the happy sinecure he holds. The Bishop in his crimson robe, and with his sacer dotal title "Missionary Bishop of Central Africa" (why he should be so named I cannot conceive), has reached the bourne of aspiring priesthood, and is consequently meffably happy. But this High Church (very High Church indeed) prelate in his crimson robe of office, and in the queerest of all head-dresses, seen stalking through the streets of Zanzibar, or haggling over the price of a tin-pot at a tinker's stall, is the most ridiculous sight I have seen anywhere outside of a clown show. I as a white man solemnly protest against the absurdity. A similar picture to the Bishop, in his priestly robes and a paper cap, in a tinker's stall, is the King of Dahomey in a European hat with his body naked, promenading 2 80 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. pompously about in this exquisite full dress. Whatever the Bishop in his blissful innocence may think of the effect which it produces in the minds of the heathen, I can inform him, that to the Arabs and Wan guana who have settled in Unyanyembe he is only an object of supreme ridicule ; and also, that most of his pale-faced brothers entertain something of the same opinion. Poor, dear Bishop Tozer ! I would fain love and admire thee, were it not for this exhibition of extreme High-Ohurchism in a place like Zanzibar ! The French missionaries have proceeded actively to work in a true practical spirit. They not only endea- vour to instil into the minds of their numerous converts the principles of religion, but also to educate them in the business of life. They teach their young disciples various useful trades ; they prodilce agriculturists, carpenters, blacksmiths, boat-builders, and mechanical engineers among them. Their various departments of instruction have able, efficient, and laborious teachers. Their shops at Zanzibar form one of the sights which a stranger would wish to see. At Bagamoyo^ on the mainland, their mission station is on an extensive scale. The estate adjoining the mission station, cultivated by their young pupils, is a model of industry ; and the products serve to more than support the institution with all the necessaries of life. The converts and pupils they are educating exceed more than twc hundred. Jan. 1871.1 CHAPTER II. ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 1 WAS totally ignorant of the interior, and it was difficult at first to know what I needed, in order to take an expedition into Central Africa. Time was precious, also, and much of it could not be devoted to inquiry and investigation. In a case like this, it would have been a godsend^ I thought, had either of the three gentlemen, Captains Burton, Speke, or Grrant, given some information on these points ; had they devoted a chapter upon, " How to get ready an Expedition for Central Africa.'* The purpose of this chapter, then, is to relate how I set about it, that other travellers coming- after me may have the benefit of my expe- rience. These are some of the questions I asked myself, as I tossed on my bed at night : — " How much money is required ? " " How many pagazis, or carriers ? " " How many soldiers ?" *' How much cloth ? " " How many beads ? " " How much wire ? " " What kinds of cloth are required for the difi*ereiil tribes?" 22 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. Ever so many questions to myself brought me no nearer the exact point I wished to arrive at. I scribbled over scores of sheets of paper, making estimates, draw ing out lists of material, calculating the cost of keeping one hundred men for one year, at so many yards of dif- ferent kinds of cloth, etc. I studied Burton, Speke, and Grant in vain. A good deal of geographical ethnological, and other information appertaining to the study of Inner Africa was obtainable, but information respecting the organization of an expedition requisite before proceeding to Africa, was not in any book. I threw the books from me in disgust. The Europeans at Zanzibar knew as little as possible about this par- ticular point. There was not one white man at Zanzi- bar, who could tell how many dotis a day a force of one hundred men required for food on the road. Neither, indeed, was it their business to know. But what should I do at all, at all ? This was a grand question. I decided it were best to hunt up an Arab merchant who had been engaged in the ivory trade, or who was fresh from the interior. Sheikh Hashid was a man of note and of wealth in Zanzibar. He had himself despatched several dkravans into the interior, and was necessarily acquainted with several prominent traders who came to his house to gossip about their adventures and gains. He was also the proprietor of the large house Oapt. Webb occu- pied ; besides, he lived across the narrow street which separated his house from the Consulate. Of all men Sheikh Hashid was the man to be consulted, and he was accordingly invited to visit me at the Consulate. From the grey-bearded and venerable-looking Sheikh, I elicited more information about African currency, the mode of procedure, the quantity and Jan. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 28 quality of stuffs I required, than I had obtained from three months study of books upon Central Africa ; and from other Arab merchants to whom the ancient Sheikh introduced me, I received most valuable suggestions and hints, which enabled me at last to organize an expedition. The reader must bear in mind that a traveller requires only that which is sufficient for travel and exploration ; that a superfluity of goods or means will prove as fatal to him as poverty of supplies. It is on this question of quality and quantity that the traveller has first to exercise his judgment and discretion. My informants gave me to understand that for one hundred men, 10 doti, or 40 yards of cloth per diem, would suffice for food. The proper course to pursue, I found, was to purchase 2,000 doti of American sheeting, 1,000 doti of Kaniki, and 650 doti of the coloured cloths, such as Barsati, a great favourite in Unyam- wezi ; Sohari, taken in Ugogo ; Ismahili, Taujiri, Joho, Shash, Eehani, Jamdani or Kunguru-Cuteh, blue and pink. These were deemed amply sufficient for the subsistence of one hundred men for twelve months. Two years at this rate would require 4000 doti = 16,000 yards of American sheeting ; 2,000 doti = 8,000 yards of Kaniki; 1,300 doti = 5,200 yards of mixed coloured cloths. This was definite and valuable information to me, and excepting the lack of some suggestions as to the quality of the sheeting, Kaniki, and coloured cloths, I had obtained all I desired upon this point. Second in importance to the ainount of cloth required was the quantity and quality of the beads necessary. Beads, I was told, took the place of cloth currency among some tribes of the interior. One tribe preferred white to black beads, brown to yellow, 24 BOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. red to green, green to white, and so on. Thus, m Unyamwezi, red (sami-sami) beads would readily be taken, where all other kinds would be refused ; black (bubu) beads, though currency in Ugogo, were posi- tively worthless with all other tribes ; the egg (sungo- mazzi) beads, though valuable in Ujiji and Uguhha, would be refused in all other countries ; the white (Merikani) beads, though good in Ufipa, and some parts of Usagara and Ugogo, would certainly be despised in Useguhha, and Ukonongo. Such being the case, I was obliged to study closely, and calculate the probable stay of an expedition in the several countries, so as to be sure to provide a sufficiency of each kind, and guard against any great overplus. Burton and Speke, for instance, were obliged to throw away as worthless several hundred fundo of beads. For example, supposing the several nations of Europe had each its own currency, without the means of exchange, and supposing a man was about to travel through Europe on foot, before starting he would be apt to calculate how many days it would take him to travel through France ; how many through Prussia, Austria, and Russia, then to reckon the expense he would be likely to incur per day. If the expense be set down at a napoleon per day, and his journey through France would occupy thirty days, the sum required for going and returning might be properly set down at sixty napoleons, in which case, napoleons not being current money in Prussia, Austria, or Russia, it would be utterly useless for him to burden himself with the weight of a couple of thousand napoleons in gold. My anxiety on this point was most excruciating. Over and over I studied the hard names and measures, conned again and again the polysyllables, hoping to be Jah. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION, aS able to arrive some time at an intelligible definition of the terms. I revolved in my mind the words Mukim- giiru, Grhiilabio, Sungomazzi^ Kadunduguru, Miitunda, Sami-sami, Bubu, Merikani, Hafde, Lunghio-Rega, and Lakliio, until I was fairly beside myself. Finally, however, I came to the conclusion that if I reckoned my requirements at fifty khete, or five fundo per day, for two years, and if I purchased only eleven varieties, I might consider myself safe enough. The purchase was accordingly made, and twenty-two sacks of the best species were packed and brought to Capt. Webb's house, ready for transportation to Bagamoyo. After the beads came the wire question. I discovered, after considerable trouble, that Nos. 5 and 6 — almost of the thickness of telegraph wire — were considered the best numbers for trading purposes. While beads stand for copper coins in Africa, cloth measures for silver ; wire is reckoned as gold in the countries beyond the Tan-ga-ni-ka.* Ten frasilah, or 350 lbs., of brass-wire, my Arab adviser thought, would be ample. Having purchased the cloth, the beads, and \he wire, it was with no little pride that I surveyed the comely bales and packages lying piled up, row above row, in Capt. Webb's capacious store-room. Yet my work was not ended, it was but beginning ; there were provisions, cooking-utensils, boats, rope, twine, tents, donkeys, saddles, bagging, canvas, tar, needles, tools, ammu- nition, guns, equipments, hatchets, medicines, bedding, presents for chiefs — in short, a thousand things not yet purchased. The ordeal of chaffering and haggling with steel-hearted Banyans, Hindis, Arabs, and half- castes was most trying. For instance, I purchased * It will be seen that I differ from Capt. Burton in the spell rig of this word, as I deem the letter " y " superfluous. 96 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, twenty-two donkeys at Zanzibar. $40 and $50 were asked, which I had to reduce to $15 or $20 by an infinite amount of argument worthy, I think, of a nobler cause. As was my experience with the ass-dealers so it was with the petty merchants ; even a paper of pins was not purchased without a five per cent, reduction from the price demanded, involving, of course^ a loss of much time and patience. After collecting the donkeys, I discovered there werp. no pack-saddles to be obtained in Zanzibar. Donkeys without pack-saddles were of no use whatever. I in- vented a saddle to be manufactured by myself and my white man Farquhar, wholly from canvas, rope, and cotton. Three or four frasilahs of cotton, and ten bolts of canvas were required for the saddles, A specimen saddle was made by myself in order to test its efiSciency. A donkey was taken and saddled, and a load of 140 lbs. was fastened to it, and though the animal — a wild creature of Unyamwezi — struggled and reared franti- cally, not a particle gave way. After this experiment, Farquhar was set to work to manufacture twenty-one more after the same pattern. Woollen pads were also purchased to protect the animals from being galled. It ought to be mentioned here, perhaps, that the idea of such a saddle as I manufactured, was first derived from the Otago saddle, in use among the transport- trains of the English army in Abyssinia. A man named John William Shaw — a native of London, England, lately third-mate of the American ship ' Nevada ' — applied to me for work. Though his discharge from the ' Nevada ' was rather suspicious, yet he possessed all the requirements of such a man as I needed, and was an experienced hand with the palm Jan. 1871.] ORQANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 27 and needle, could cut canvas to fit anything, was a pretty good navigator, ready and willing, as far as his professions went. I saw no reason to refuse his services, and he was accordingly engaged at $300 per annum, to rank second to William L. Farquhar. Farquhar was a capital navigator and excellent ma- thematician ; was strong, energetic, and clever ; but, I am sorry to say, a hard drinker. Every day, while we lived at Zanzibar, he was in a muddled condition, and the dissipated, vicious life he led at this place proved fatal to him, as will be seen, shortly after penetrating into the interior. The next thing I was engaged upon was to enlist, arm, and equip, a faithful escort of twenty men for the road. Johari, the chief dragoman of the American Consulate, informed me that he knew where certain of Speke's " Faithfuls " were yet to be found. The idea had struck me before, that if I could obtain the services of a few men acquainted with the ways of white men, and who could induce other good men to join the expedition I was organizing, I might consider myself fortunate. More especially had I thought of Seedy . Mbarak Mombay, commonly called " Bombay," who though his head was " woodeny," and his hands " clumsy," was considered to be the " faithfulest " of Ihe "Faithfuls." With the aid of the dragoman Johari, I secured in a few hours the services of Uledi (Capt. Grant's former valet), Ulimengo, Baruti, Ambari, Mabruki (Muinyi Mabruki — Bull-headed Mabruki, Capt. Burton s former unhappy valet) — five of Speke's " Faithfuls." When I asked them if they were willing to join another white man's expedition to Ujiji, they replied very readily that they were willing to join any brothei of "Speke's." 28 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. Dr. John Kirk, Her Majesty's Consul at Zanzibar, who was present, told them that though I was no brother of '' Speke's," I spoke his language. This distinction mattered little to them, and I heard them, with great delight, declare their readiness to go anywhere with me, or do anything I wished. Mombay, as they called him, or Bombay, as we Wasungu know him, had gone to Pemba, an island ly- ing north of Zanzibar. Uledi was sure Mombay would jump with joy at the prospect of another expedition. Johari was therefore commissioned to write to him at Pemba, to inform him of the good fortune in store for him. On the fourth morning after the letter had been despatched, the famous Bombay made his appearance, followed in decent order and due rank by the " Faith- fuls" of '^ Speke." I looked in vain for the " woodeny head" and *' alligator teeth" with which his former master had endowed him. I saw a slender short man of fifty or thereabouts, with a grizzled head, an un- commonly high, narrow forehead, with a very large mouth, showing teeth very irregular, and wide apart. An ugly rent in the upper front row of Bombay's teeth was made with the clenched fist of Capt. Speke in Uganda, when his master's patience was worn out, and prompt punishment became necessary. That Capt. Speke had spoiled him with kindness was evident, from the fact that Bombay had the audacity to stand up for a boxing match with him. But these things I only found out when, months afterwards, I was called upon to administer punishment to him myself. But, at his first appearance, I was favourably impressed with Bombay, though his face was rugged, his mouth large, his eyes small, and his nose flat. Jan. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 29 ** Salaam aliekum/' were the words he greeted me with. " AHekum salaam," I replied, with all the gravity 1 could muster. I then informed him I required him as captain of my soldiers to Ujiji. His reply was that he was ready to do whatever I told him, go wherever 1 liked— in short, be a pattern to servants, and a model to soldiers. He hoped I would give him a uniform, and a good gun, both of which were promised. Upon inquiring for the rest of the " Faithfuls " who accompanied Speke into Egypt, I was told that at Zanzibar there were but six. Ferrajji, Maktub, Sadik, Sunguru, Manyu, Matajari, Mkata, and Almas, were dead ; Uledi and Mtamani were in Unyanyembe ; Hassan had gone to Kilwa, and Ferahan was supposed to be in Ujiji. Out of the six " Faithfuls," ©ach of whom still retained his medal for assisting in the " Discovery of the Sources of the Nile," one, poor Mabruki, had met with a sad misfortune which I feared would incapacitate him from active usefulness. Mabruki the '' Bull-headed," owned a shamba (or a house with a garden attached to it), of which he was very proud. Close to him lived a neighbour in similar 3ircumstances, who was a soldier of Syed Majid, with whom Mabruki, who was of a quarrelsome disposition, had a feud, which culminated in the soldier inducing two or three of his comrades to assist him in punish- ing the malevolent Mabruki, and this was done in a manner that only the heart of an African could con- ceive. They tied the unfortunate fellow by his wrists to a branch of a tree, and after indulging their brutal appetite for revenge in torturing him, left him to hang in that position for two days. At the expiration of 80 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, the second day, lie was accidentally discovered in a most pitiable condition. His hands had swollen to an immense size, and the veins of one hand having been ruptured, he had lost its use. It is needless to say that, when the affair came to Syed Majid's ears, the miscreants were severely punished. Dr. Kirk, who attended the poor fellow^ succeeded in restoring one hand to some- thing of a resemblance of its former shape, but the other hand is sadly marred, and its former usefulness gone for ever. However, I engaged Mabruki, despite his deformed hands, his ugliness and vanity, despite Burton's bad report of him, because he was one of Speke's " Faith- fuls." For if he but wagged his tongue in my service, kept his eyes open, and opened his mouth at the proper time, I assured myself I could make him useful. Bombay, my captain of escort, succeeded in getting eighteen more free men to volunteer as "askari" (soldiers), men whom he knew would not desert, and for whom he declared himself responsible. They were an exceedingly fine-looking body of men, far more intelligent in appearance than I could ever have believed African barbarians could be. They hailed principally from Uhiyow, others from Unyamwezi, some came from Useguhha and Ugindo. Their wages were set down at $36 each man per annum, or $3 each per month. Each soldier was pro- vided with a flintlock, musket, powder horn, bullet, pouch, knife, and hatchet, besides enough powder and lE)all for 200 rounds. Bombay, in consideration of his rank, and previous faithful services to Burton, Speke, and Grant, was en- gaged at $80 a year, half that sum in advance, a good Jan. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 31 muzzle-loading rifle, besides, a pistol, knife, and hatchet were given to him, while the other five " Faithfuls," Ambari, Mabruki, Ulimengo, Baruti, and Uledi, were engaged at $40 a year, with proper equipments as soldiers. Having studied fairly well all the East African travellers' books regarding Eastern and Central Africa, my mind had conceived the difficulties which would present themselves during the prosecution of my search after Dr. Livingstone. To obviate all of these, as well as human wit could suggest, was my constant thought and aim. " Shall I permit myself, while looking from Ujiji over the waters of the Tanganika Lake to the other side, to be balked on the threshold of success by the insolence of a King Kannena or. the caprice of a Hamed bin Sulayyam ? " was a question I asked myself. To guard against such a contingency I determined to carry my own boats. " Then," I thought, " if I hear of Livingstone being on the Tanganika, I can launch my boat and proceed after him." I procured one large boat, capable of carrying twenty persons, with stores and goods sufficient for a cruise, from the American Consul, for the sum of $80, and a smaller one from another American gentleman for $40. The latter would hold comfortably six men, with suit- able stores. I did not intend to carry the boats whole or bodily, but to strip them of their boards, and carry the timbers and thwarts only. As a substitute for the boards, I proposed to cover each boat with a double canvas skin well tarred. The work of stripping them and taking them to pieces fell to me. This little job occupied me five days. I also packed them up, for the pagazis, 82 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, Each load was carefully weighed, and none exceeded 68 lbs. in weight. John Shaw excelled himself in the workmanship dis- played on the canvas-boats ; when finished, they fitted their frames admirably. The canvas — six bolts of Eng- lish hemp, No. 3 — was procured from Ludhai Damj, who furnished it from the sultan's storeroom. An insuperable obstacle to rapid transit in Africa is the want of carriers, and as speed was the main object of the Expedition under my command, my duty was to lessen this difficulty as much as possible. My carriers could only be engaged after arriving at Bagamoyo, on the mainland. I had over twenty good donkeys ready, and I thought a cart adapted for the goat- paths of Africa might prove an advantage. Accord- ingly I had a cart constructed, eighteen inches wide and five feet long, supplied with two fore- wheels of a light American wagon, more for the purpose of con- veying the narrow ammunition-boxes. I estimated that if a donkey could carry to Unyanyembe a load of four frasilahs, or 140 lbs., he ought to be able to draw eight frasilahs on such a cart, which would be equal to the carrying capacity of four stout pagazis or carriers. Events will prove, how my theories were borne out by practice. When my purchases were completed, and I beheld them piled up, tier after tier, row upon row, here a mass of cooking-utensils, there bundles of rope, tents, saddles, a pile of portmanteaus and boxes, containing every imaginable thing, I confess I was rather abashed at my own temerity. Here were at least six tons of material ! " How will it ever be possible," I thought, "to move all this inert mass across the wilderness stretching between the sea, and the great lakes of 1 /an. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 33 Africa ? Bah, cast all doubts away, man, and have at them ! ' Sufficient for the day is the evil thereof,' with- out borrowing from the morrow." The traveller, with a lake in the centre of that broad African continent before him, must needs make his way there after a fashion very different from that to which he has been accustomed in other countries. He requires to take with him just what a ship must have when about to sail on a long voyage. He must have his slop chest, his little store of canned dainties, and his medicines, besides which, he must have enough guns, powder, and ball to be able to make a series of good fights if necessary. He must have men to convey these miscellaneous articles ; and as a man's maximum load does not exceed 70 lbs., to convey 11,000 lbs. requires nearly 160 men. Europe and the Orient, even Arabia and Turkestan, have royal ways of travelling compared to Africa. Specie is received in all those countries, by which a traveller may carry his means about with him on his own person. Eastern and Central Africa, however, demand a necklace, instead of a cent; two yards oi American sheeting, instead of half a dollar, or a florin, and a kitindi of thick brass- wire, in place of a gold piece. The African traveller can hire neither wagons nor camels, neither horses nor mules, to proceed with him into the interior. His means of conveyance are limited to black and naked men, who demand at least $15 a head for every 70 lbs. weight carried only as far as Unyanyembe. One thing amongst others my predecessors omitted to inform men bound for Africa, which is of importance, and that is, that no traveller should ever think of coming to Zanzibar with his money in any other shape than 34 EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE, gold coin. Letters of credit, circular notes, find such civilized things I have found to be a centurj ahead of Zanzibar people. Twenty and twenty-five cents deducted out of every dollar I drew on paper is one of the unpleasant, if not unpleasantest things I have committed to lasting memory. For Zanzibar is a spot far removed from all avenues of European commerce, and coin is at a high premium. A man may talk and entreat, but though he may have drafts, cheques, circular notes, letters of credit, a carte-blanche to get what he wants, out of every dollar must be deducted twenty, twenty-five and thirty cents, so I was told, and so was my experience. What a pity there is no branch-bank here ! I had intended to have gone into Africa incognito. But the fact that a white man, even an American, was about to enter Africa was soon known all over Zanzibar. This fact was repeated a thousand times in the streets, proclaimed in all shop alcoves, and at the custom-house. The native bazaar laid hold of it, and agitated it day and night until my departure. The foreigners, including the Europeans, wished to know the pros and cons of my coming in and going out. My answer to all questions, pertinent and impertinent, was, I am going to Africa. Though my card bore the words Eenrv M. Stanley, New York Herald. very few, I believe, ever coupled the words '*New Jam. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 86 York Herald " with a search after " Doctor Living- stone." It was not my fault, was it ? Ah, me ! what hard work it is to start an expedition alone ! What with hurrying through the baking heat of the fierce relentless sun from shop to shop, strengthening myself with far-reaching and enduring patience for the haggling contest with the livid-faced Hindi, summoning courage and wit to brow-beat the villainous Groanese, and match the foxy Banyan, talking volumes throughout the day, correcting estimates, making up accounts, superintending the delivery of pur- chased articles, measuring and weighing them, to see that everything was of full measure and weight, over- seeing the white men Farquhar and Shaw, who were busy on donkey saddles, sails, tents, and boats for the Expedition, I felt, when the day was over, as though limbs and brain well deserved their rest. Such labours were mine unremittingly for a month. Having bartered drafts on Mr. James Gordon Bennett to the amount of several thousand dollars for cloth, beads, wire, donkeys, and a thousand necessaries, having advanced pay to the white men, and black escort of the Expedition, having fretted Capt. Webb and his family more than enough with the din of preparation, and filled his house with my goods, there was nothing further to do but to leave my formal adieus with the Europeans, and thank the Sultan and those gentlemen who had assisted me, before embarking for Bagamoyo. The day before my departure from Zanzibar the American Consul, having just habited himself in his black coat, and taking with him an extra black hat, in order to be in state apparel, proceeded with me to the Sultan's palace. The Prince had been generous lo me ; he had presented me with an Arab horse, had D 2 86 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONS. furnislied me with letters of introduction to his agents^ his chief men, and representatives in the interior, and in many other ways had shown himself well disposed towards me. The palace is a large, roomy, lofty, square house close to the fort, built of coral, and plastered thickly with lime mortar. In appearance it is half Arabic and half Italian. The shutters are Venetian blinds painted a vivid green, and presenting a striking contrast to the whitewashed walls. Before the great, lofty, wide door were ranged in two crescents several Baluch and Persian mercenaries, armed with curved swords and targes of rhinoceros hide. Their dress was a muddy-white cotton shirt, reaching to the ancles, girdled with a leather belt thickly studded with silver bosses. As we came in sight a signal was passed to some person inside the entrance. When within twenty yards of the door, the Sultan, who was standing waiting, came down the. steps, and, passing through the ranks, advanced toward us, with his right hand stretched out, and a genial smile of welcome on his face. On our side we raised our hats, and shook hands with him, after which, doing according as he bade us, we passed forward, and arrived on the highest step near the entrance door. He pointed forward ; we bowed, and arrived at the foot of an unpainted and narrow staircase to turn once more to the Sultan. *• Go on," he said, and we ascended the stairs with my feelings greatly shocked, for the Sultan coming immediately after me, was placed in a most ignominious position for a sovereign prince. The Consul, I perceived, was ascending sideways, a mode of progression which I saw was intended for a compro* mise with decency and dignity ; I imitated him as well Jak. 1871.J ORGANIZATION OF TEE EXPEDITION. 87 as I was able, but I nevertheless thought my position rather peculiar. At the top of the stairs we waited, with our faces towards the up-coming Prince. Again we were waived magnanimously forward, for before us was the reception hall and throne-room. I noticed, as I marched forward to the furthest end, that the room was high, and painted in the Arabic style, that the carpet was thick and of Persian fabric, that the furniture con- sisted of a dozen gilt chairs and a chandelier. We were seated ; Ludha Damji, the Banyan collector of customs, a venerable-looking old man, with a shrewd intelligent face, sat on the right of the Sultan ; next to him was the great Mohammedan merchant, Tarya Topan, who had come to be present at the interview, not only because he was one of the councillors of His Highness, but because he also took a lively interest in this American Expedition. Opposite to Ludha sat Capt. Webb, and next to him I was seated, opposite Tarya Topan. The Sultan sat in a gilt chair between the Americans and the councillors. Johari the drago- man stood humbly before the Sultan, expectant and ready to interpret what we had to communicate to the Prince. The Sultan, so far as dress goes, might be taken for a Mingrelian gentleman, excepting, indeed, for the turban, whose ample folds in alternate colours of red, yellow, brown, and white, encircled his head. His long robe was of dark cloth, cinctured round the waist with his rich sword-belt, from which was suspended a gold-hilted scimitar, encased in a scabbard also enriched with gold. His legs and feet were bare, and had a ponderous look about them, since he suffered from that strange curse of Zanzibar — elephantiasis. His feet were slipped into a pair of watta (Arabic for slippers), with thick 88 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. soles and a strong leathern band over the instep. His light complexion and his correct features, which are intelligent and regular, bespeak the Arab patrician. The J indicate, however, nothing except his high descent and blood ; no traits of character are visible unless there is just a trace of amiability, and perfect contentment with himself and all around. Such is Prince, or Syed Burghash, Sultan of Zanzi- bar and Pemba, and the East coast of Africa, from Somali Land to the Mozambique, as he appeared to me. Coffee was served in cups supported by golden fin- jans, al-so some cocoa-nut milk, and rich sweet sherbet. The conversation began with the question addressed to the Consul, " Are you well ? " Consul, — " Yes, thank you. How is His Highness ?" Highness. — " Quite well !" Highness to me, — "Are you well ?" Answer, — " Quite well, thanks ! " Tbe Consul now introduces business ; and questions about my travels follow from His Highness — ''How do you like Persia?" " Have you seen Kerbela, Bagdad, Masr, Stamboul ?" " Have the Turks many soldiers ? " " How many has Persia ? " " Is Persia fertile ? " " How do you like Zanzibar ? " Having answered each question to his Highness satisfaction, he handed me letters of introduction to his officers at Bagamoyo and Kaole, and a general intro- ductory letter to all Arab merchants whom I might meet on the road, and concluded his remarks to me, with the expressed hope, that on whatever mission I was bound, I should be perfectly successful. Feb. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION, 36 We bowed ourselves out of his presence in much the same manner that we had bowed ourselves in, he accompanying us to the great entrance door. Mr. Goodhue of Salem, an American merchant long resident in Zanzibar, presented me, as I gave him my adieu, with a blooded bay horse, imported from the Cape of Good Hope, and worth, at least at Zanzibar, $500. Feb. 4. — By the 4th of February, twenty-eight days from the date of my arrival at Zanzibar, the organization and equipment of the "" New York Herald Expedition " was complete ; tents and saddles had been manufac- tured, boats and sails were ready. The donkeys brayed, and the horses neighed impatiently for the road. Etiquette demanded that I should once more present my card to the European and American Consuls at Zanzibar, and the word "farewell " was said to every- body. On the fifth day, four dhows were anchored before the American Consulate. Into one were lifted the two horses, into two others the donkeys, into the fourth, the largest, the black escort, and bulky moneys of the Expedition. When about to give the order to sail, the two white men, Farquhar and Shaw, were absent. They were found, after a vigorous hunt, among the liquor sbops, surrounded by about a dozen boon companions, hold- ing forth upon the greatness of the art of African exploration, trying to stave off with the aid of whisky the dread presentiments that would insidiously now and then obtrude themselves into their minds, warning them that though new lands were about to be revealed to them, with all the fantastic scenes credited to the new country, there might be something in these strange parts that might — " well, what ?" 40 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. "Get into the dhows at once, men. This is rather a bad beginning after signing contracts," I said, as I saw them reeling to the beach in company of Bombay, and four or five of the newly-enlisted escort. " If you please, sir, may I ask if — if — if you think I have done quite right in promising to go with you to Afriky ?" asked Shaw, in a most hesitating and dolor- ous tone. " Have you not received your advance ? Have you not signed the contract ?" I asked ; " and do you now wish to withdraw? Get into the boat, man, at once. We are all in for it now, sink or swim, live or die — none can desert his duty." A little before noon we set sail. The American flag, a present to the Expedition by that kind-hearted lady, Mrs. Webb, was raised to the mast-head ; the Consul, his lady, and exuberant little children, Mary and Charley, were on the housetop waving the starry banner, hats, and handkerchiefs, a token of farewell to me and mine. Happy people, and good ! may their course and ours be prosperous, and may God's blessing rest on us all ! CAMP AT BAGAMOYO CHAPTER III. LIFE AT BAGAMOYO. The Isle of Zanzibar with its groves of cocoa-nut, mango, clove, and cinnamon, and its sentinel islets of Chumbi and French, with its whitewashed city and jack- fruit odor, with its harbor and ships that tread the deep, faded slowly from view, and looking westward, the African continent rose, a similar bank of green verdure to that which had just receded till it was a mere sinuous line above the horizon, looming in a northerly direction to the sublimity of a mountain chain. The distance across from Zanzibar to Bagamoyo may be about twenty- five miles, yet it took the dull and lazy dhows ten hours before they dropped anchor on the top of the coral reef plainly visible a few feet above the surface of the water, within a hundred yards of the beach. 42 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. The newly-enlisted soldiers, fond of noise and excite- ment, discharged repeated salvos by way of a salute to the mixed crowd of Arabs, Banyans and Wasawahili, who stood on the beach to receive the Musungu (white man), which they did with a general stare and a chorus of " Yambo, Bana ?" (how are you, master ?) In our own land the meeting with a large crowd is rather a tedious operation, as our independent citizens insist on an interlacing of digits, and a vigorous shaking thereof before their pride is satisfied, and the peaceful manifestation endorsed ; but on this beach, well lined with spectators, a response of " Yambo, Bana!" sufficed, except with one who of all there was acknowledged the greatest, and who, claiming, like all great men, indi- vidual attention, came forward to exchange another " Yambo !" on his own behalf, and to shake hands This personage with a long trailing turban, was Jema- dar Esau, commandant (French), commander (English), of the Zanzibar force of soldiers, police, or Baluch gen- darmes stationed at Bagamoyo. He had accompanied Speke and Grant a good distance into the interior, and they, like all English travellers, had rewarded him liberally. He took upon himself the responsibility of assisting in the debarkation of the Expedition, and unworthy as was his appearance, disgraceful as he was in his filth, and with his hirsute face, I here commend him for his influence over the rabble to all future East African travellers. Foremost among those who wel- comed us was a Father of the Society of St. -Esprit, who with other Jesuits, under Father Superior Horner, have established a missionary post of considerable influence and merit at Bagamoyo. We were invited to partake of the hospitality of the Mission, to take our meals there, and, should we desire it, to pitch our camp on Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAQAMOYO. 4S their grounds. But however strong the geniality of the welcome and sincere the heartiness of the invita- tion, I am one of those who prefer independence to dependence if it is possible. Besides, my sense of the obligation between host and guest had just had a fine edge put upon it by the delicate forbearance of my kind host at Zanzibar, who had betrayed no sign of impatience at the trouble I was only too conscious of having caused him. I therefore informed the hospitable Padre, that only for one night could I suffer myself to be enticed from my camp. I selected a house near the western outskirts of the town, where there is a large open square through which the road from Unyanyembe enters. Had I been at Bagamoyo a month, I could not have bettered my location. My tents were pitched fronting the tembe (house) I had chosen, enclosing a small square, where business could be transacted, bales looked over, examined, and marked, free from the intrusion of curious sight- seers. After driving the twenty-seven animals of the Expedition into the enclosure in the rear of the house, storing the bales of goods, and placing a cordon of soldiers round, I proceeded to the Jesuit Mission, to a late dinner, being tired and ravenous, leaving the newly-formed camp in charge of the white men and Capt. Bombay. The Mission is distant from the town a good half mile, to the north of it ; it is quite a village of itself, num- bering some fifteen or sixteen houses. There are some ten padres engaged in the establishment, and as many sisters, nnd all find plenty of occupation in educing from native crania the fire of intelligence. Truth com- pels me to state that they are very successful, having over two hundred pupils, boys and girls, in the Mission, 44 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. and, from the oldest to the youngest, they show the impress of the useful education they have received. The dinner furnished to the padres and their guest consisted of as many plats as a first-class hotel in Paris usually supplies, and cooked with nearly as much sk?ll, though the surroundings were by no means equal. 1 feel assured also that the padres, besides being tasteful in their potages and entrees, do not stultify their ideas for lack of that element which Horace, Hafiz, and Byron have praised so much. The champagne — think of champagne Cliquot in East Africa ! — Lafitte, La Rose, Burgundy, and Bordeaux were of first-rate quality, and the meek and lowly eyes of the fathers were not a little brightened under the vinous influence. Ah ! those fathers understand life, and appreciate its dura- tion. Their festive board drives the Mukunguru (African jungle fever) from their doors, while it soothes the gloom and isolation which strike one with awe, as one emerges from the lighted room and plunges into the depths of the darkness of an African night, enlivened only by the wearying monotone of the frogs and crickets, and the distant ululation of the hyaena. It requires somewhat above human effort, unaided by the ruby liquid that cheers, to be always suave and polite amid the dismalities of native life in Africa. After the evening meal, which replenished my failing strength, and for which I felt the intensest gratitude, the most advanced of the pupils came forward, to the number of twenty, with brass instruments, thus forming a full band of music. It rather astonished me to hear the sounds issue forth in such harmony from such woolly-headed youngsters ; to hear well-known French music at this isolated port, to hear negro boys, that a few months ago knew nothing beyond the traditions Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAG AMD YO. 4fi of their ignorant mothers, stand forth and chant Parisian songs about Frencli valor and glory, with all the sang- froid of gamins from the purlieus of Saint- Antoine. I had a most refreshing night's rest, and at dawn I sought out my camp, with a will to enjoy the new life now commencing. On counting the animals, two donkeys were missing ; and on taking notes of my African moneys, one coil of No. 6 wire was not to be found. Everybody had evidently fallen on the ground to sleep, oblivious of the fact that on the Mrima there are many dishonest prowlers at night. Soldiers were despatched to search through the town and neighbourhood, and Jemadar Esau, he of the trailing turban, the filthy face and neck, was apprised of our loss, and stimulated to discover the animals by the promise of a reward. Before night one of the missing donkeys was found outside the town nibbling at manioc-leaves, but the other animal and the coil of wire were never found. Among my visitors this first day at Bagamoyo was Ali bin Salim, a brother of the famous Sayd bin Salim, formerly Ras Kafilah to Burton and Speke, and subse- quently to Speke and Grant. His salaams were very pro- fuse, and moreover, his brother was to be my agent in Unyamwezi, so that I did not hesitate to accept his offer of assistance. But, alas, for my white face and too trustful nature ! This Ali bin Salim turned out to be a snake in the grass, a very sore thorn in my side. T was invited to his comfortable house to partake of coffee. I went there : the coffee was good though sugarless, his promises were many, but they proved valueless. Said he to me, " I am your friend ; I wish to serve you ; what can I do for you ?" — Replied I, " I am obliged to you, I need a good friend who, knowing the language and customs of the Wanyamwezi, can procure me the 46 HOW 2 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. pagazis I need and send me off quickly. Your brother is acquainted with the Wasungu (white men), and knows that what they promise they make good. Get me a hun- dred and forty pagazis and I will pay you your price." With unctuous courtesy, the reptile I was now warmly nourishing, said, " I do not want anything from you, my friend, for such a slight service, rest content and quiet ; you shall not stop here fifteen days. To-morrow morn- ing I will come and overhaul your bales to see what is needed." I bade him good morning, elated with the happy thought that I was soon to tread the Unyanyembe road. The reader must be made acquainted with two good and sufficient reasons why I was to devote all my energy to lead the Expedition as quickly as possible from Bagamoyo. First, I wished to reach Ujiji be- fore the news reached Livingstone that I was in search of him, for my impression of him was that he was a man who would try to put as much dis- tance as possible between us, rather than make an effort to shorten it, and I should have my long journey for nothing. Second, the Masika, or rainy season, would soon be on me, which, if it caught me at Baga- moyo, would prevent my departure until it was over, which meant a delay of forty days, and exaggerated as the rains were by all men with whom I came in contact, it rained every day for forty days without intermission. This I knew was a thing to dread ; for I had my memory stored with all kinds of rainy unpleasantnesses. For instance, there was the rain of Virginia and its concomitant horrors — wetness, mildew, agues, rheuma- tics, and such like ; then there were the English rains, a miserable drizzle causing the blue devils; then the rainy season of Abyssinia with the flood-gates of the firmament opened, and an universal down-pour of rain, Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAGAMOYO. 47 enougli to submerge half a continent in a few hours ; lastly, there was the pelting monsoon of India, a steady shut-in-house kind of rain. To which of these rains should I compare this dreadful Masika of East Africa ? Did not Burton write much about black mud in Uzaramo ? Well, a country whose surface soil is called black mud in fine weather, w4iat can it be called when forty days' rain beat on it, and feet of joagazis and donkeys make paste of it ? These were natural reflec- tions, induced by the circumstances of the hour, and I found myself much exercised in mind in consequence. Ali bin Salim, true to his promise, visited my camp on the morrow, with a very important air, and after looking at the pile of cloth bales, informed me that I must have them covered with mat-bags (makandas). He said he would send a man to have them measured, but he enjoined me not to make any bargain for the bags, as he would make it all right. While awaiting with commendable patience the 140 pagazis promised by Ali bin Sahm we were all employed upon everything that thought could suggest needful for crossing the sickly maritime region, so that we might make the transit before the terrible fever could unnerve us, and make us joyless. A short experience at Baga- moyo showed us what we lacked, what was superfluous, and what was necessary. We were visited one night by a squall, accompanied by furious rain. I had $1,500 worth of pagazi cloth in my tent. In the morning I looked, and lo ! the drilling had let in rain like a sieve^ and every yard of cloth was wet. It occupied two days afterwards to dry the cloths, and fold them again. The drill-tent was condemned, and a No. 5 hemp-canvas tent at once prepared. After which I felt convinced that my cloth bales, and one year's ammunition, were 48 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, safe, and that I could defy the Masika. In the hurry oi departure from Zanzibar, and in my ignorance of how bales should be made, I had submitted to the better judg- ment and ripe experience of one Jetta, a commission merchant, to prepare my bales for carriage. Jetta did not weigh the bales as he made them up, but piled the Merikani, Kaniki, Barsati, Jamdani, Joho, Ismahili, in alternate layers, and roped the same into bales. One or two pagazis came to my camp and began to chaffer ; they wished to see the bales first, before they would make a final bargain. They tried to raise them up — ugh ! ugh ! it was of no use, and withdrew. A fine Salter's spring balance was hung up, and a bale suspended to the hook ; the finger indicated 105 lbs. or 3 frasilah, which was just 35 lbs. or one frasilah overweight. Upon putting all the bales to this test, I perceived that Jetta's guess-work, with all his experience, had caused considerable trouble to me. The soldiers were set to work to reopen and repack, which latter task is per- formed in the following manner : — We cut a doti, or four yards of Merikani^ ordinarily sold at Zanzibar for $2*75 the piece of thirty yards, and spread it out. We take a piece or bolt of good Merikani, and instead of the double fold given it by the Nashua and Salem mills, we fold it into three parts, by which the folds have a breadth of a foot ; this piece forms the first layer, and will weigh nine pounds ; the second layer consists of six pieces of Kaniki, a blue stuff similar to the blue blouse stuff of France, and the blue jeans of America, though much lighter ; the third layer is formed of the second piece of Merikani, the fourth of six more pieces of Kaniki, the fifth of Merikani, the sixth of Kaniki as before, and the seventh and last of Merikani. We have thus four pieces of Merikani, which weigh Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAQAMOYO. 49 36 lbs., and 18 pieces of Kaniki weighing also 36 lbs., making a total of 72 lbs., or a little more than two frasilahs ; the cloth is then folded singly over these layers, each corner tied to another. A bundle of coir- rope is then brought, and two men, provided with a wooden mallet for beating and pressing the bale, proceed to tie it up with as much nicety as sailors serve down rigging. When complete a bale is a solid mass three feet and a half long, a foot deep, and a foot wide. Of these bales I had to convey eighty-two to Unyanyembe, forty of which consisted solely of the Merikani and Kaniki. The other forty-two contained the Merikani and colored cloths, which latter were to serve as honga or tribute cloths, and to engage another set of pagazis from Un- yanyembe to Ujiji, and from Ujiji to the regions beyond. Tbe fifteenth day asked of me by AH bin Salim for the procuring of the pagazis passed by, and there was not the ghost of a pagazi in my camp. I sent Mabruki the Bull-headed — one of Burton's men — to Ali bin Salim, to convey my salaams and express a hope that he had kept his word. In half an hour's time Mabruki returned with the reply of the Arab, that in a few days he would be able to collect them all ; but, added Mabruki, slyly, " Bana, I don't believe him. He said aloud to himself, in my hearing, ' Why should I get the Musungu pagazis ? Syed Burghash did not send a letter to me, but to the Jemadar. Why should I trouble myself about him ? Let Syed Burghash write me a letter to that purpose, and I will procure them within two days.' " To my mind this was a time for action : Ali bin Salim should see that it was ill trifling with a white man in earnest to start. I rode down to his house to ask him what he meant. 60 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. His reply was, Mabruki had told a lie as black as his face. He had never said anything approaching to such a thing. He was willing to become my slave — to be- come a pagazi himself. But here I stopped the voluble Ali, and informed him that I could not think of em- ploying him in the capacity of a pagazi, neither could I find it in my heart to trouble Syed Burghash to write a direct letter to him, or to require of a man who had deceived me once, as Ali bin SaHm had, any service of any nature whatsoever. It would be better, therefore, if Ali bin Salim would stay away from my camp, and not enter it either in person or by proxy. T had lost fifteen days, for Jemadar Sadur, at Kaole, had never stirred from his fortified house in that village in my service, save to pay a visit, after the receipt of the Sultan's letter. Naranji, custom-house agent at Kaole, solely under the thumb of the great Ludha Damji, had not responded to Ludha's worded request that he would procure pagazis, except with winks, nods, and promises, and it is but just stated how I fared at the hands of Ali bin Salim. In this extremity I remembered the promise made to me by the great merchant of Zanzibar — Tarya Topan — a Mohammedan Hindi — that he would furnish me with a letter to a young man named Soor Hadji Palloo, who was said to be the best man in Bagamoyo to procure a supply of pagazis. I despatched Selim, my Arab interpreter, by a dhow to Zanzibar, with a very earnest request to Capt. Webb that he would procure from Tarya Topan the intro- ductory letter so long delayed. It was the last card in my hand. On the third day the boy Selim returned, bringing with him not only the letter to Soor Hadji Palloo, but Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAG AM OYO, 51 an abundance of good things from the ever-hospitable house of Mr. Webb. In a very short time after the receipt of his letter, the eminent young man Soor Hadji Palloo came to visit me, and informed me he had been requested by Tarya Topan to hire for me one hundred and forty pagazis to Unyanyembe in the shortest time possible. This he said would be very expensive, for there were scores of Arabs and Wasawahili merchants on the look-out for every caravan that came in from the interior, and they paid 20 doti, or 80 yards of cloth, to each pagazi. Not willing or able to pay more, many of these merchants had been waiting as long as six months before they could get their quota. " If you," continued he, " desire to depart quickly, you must pay from 25 to 40 doti, and I can send you off before one month is ended." In reply, I said, " Here are my cloths for pagazis to the amount of $1,750, or 3,500 doti, suffi- cient to give one hundred and forty men 25 doti each. The most I am willing to pay is 25 doti : send one hundred and forty pagazis to Unyanyembe with my cloth and wire, and I will make your heart glad with the richest present you have ever received." With a refreshing naivete, the " young man " said he did not want any present, he would get me my quota of pagazis, and then I could tell the " Wasungu " what a good " young man " he was, and consequently the benefit he would receive, would be an increase of busi- ness. He closed his reply with the astounding remark that he had ten pagazis at his house already, and if I would be good enough to have four bales of cloth, two bags of beads, and twenty coils of wire carried to his house, the pagazis could leave Bagamoyo the next day, under charge of three soldiers. " For,*' he re- marked, " it is much better and cheaper to send many £ 2 B2 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. small caravans than one large one. Large caravans invite attack, or are delayed by avaricious chiefs upon the most trivial pretexts, while small ones pass by with- out notice." The bales and beads were duly carried to Soor Hadji Palloo's house, and the day passed with me in mentally congratulating myself upon my good for- tune, in complimenting the young Hindi's talents for business, the greatness and influence of Tarya Topan, and the goodness of Mr. Webb in thus hastening my departure from Bagamoyo. I mentally vowed a hand- some present, and a great puff in my book, to Soor Hadji Palloo, and it was with a glad heart I prepared these soldiers for their march to Unyanyembe. The task of preparing the first caravan for the Unyanyembe road informed me upon several things that have escaped the notice of my predecessors in East Africa, a timely knowledge of which would have been of infinite service to me at Zanzibar, in the purchase and selection of sufficient and proper cloth. I append here, as an example, the bill of costs for the sending of a caravan of ten pagazis, and three soldiers as guards to Unyanyembe. Cost of Carriage, To 10 pagazis' hire, at 25 doti, each doti of cloth being 50c g 125-00 Matama grain for 4 days' food 1 • 00 For Food on the Road, Merikani, 25 doti 12-50 Kaniki, 20 doti 25*=*^ each 5-00 Taujiri, 2 doti 50^*" each I'OO Sami-Sami, 9 lbs. 3 • 05 Bubu, 31bs -33 Merikani, 7 lbs 1*05 K148-93 Pbb. 1871.] LIFE AT BA OAMO FcX 68 Food for Three Soldiers 3 lbs. Bubu beads g '38 8 lbs. Merikani '45 3 lbs. Sami-Sami 1*01| Merikani cloths, 7^ doti 3*75 Barsati, 2 doti .... 1*00 Kaniki, 2 doti . . . . i -50 Wages for 3 months, at g 9 per month . . . . 27 • 00 To money to pay for ferry-boat crossing the Kingani 2 • 00 g 36 044 Total cost of pagazis . . g 148 • 93 „ soldiers ........ 36 '041 gl84-97f Value of Goods carried by a portion of the First Caravan. 3 bales of cloth containing — 90 doti of Kaniki, at 25c g22-50 112 J doti of Merikani, at 50c 56*25 3 loads of wire, or 4 frasilahs 36*87^ 1 bag of Sungomazzi, or 1000 14 * 00 1 bag of Sami-Sami beads, or 2 frasilahs . . . 26 * 00 g 155 -62* Thus the cost of carriage was a little over $29 in excess of the value of the goods carried. Supposing I despatched one hundred pagazis, the cost of carriage for ten times the quantity of goods con- veyed as estimated above would amount to $I849*76f, while the cost of the goods themselves would reach the sum of $1556-25, and together would make $3406-0if. And while I am about this system of transporta- tion, being a methodical man, I might as well annex the bill of costs of a portion of the third caravan, led »y my white man Farquhar, which consisted of ten donkeys, three soldiers, one white man, and one cook. 64 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. SO that the reader may compare the expenses, for he must remember I include everything in the bill. Cost of Carriage, To 9 donkeys bearing goods, at g 18 . . . B 162 '00 To 1 donkey for white man 18 • 00 To 10 saddles .* .... 17-60 1 saddle, thus : Canvas 33J Twine 5 Cotton .... .... 25 Iron rings 10 American drill 15 Cotton band 12^ Rope 20 1-21 3 months' wages to cook at ^ 9 27 • 00 3 „ white man at ^ 25 . . . .75-00 1 tent 8-00 Sugar, 4 lbs 25 Tea 4-00 Medicine 3-00 Rice . 1-00 To 3 soldiers' wages at jg 9 each 27 • 00 Ferry money 2 • 00 Matama grain, 16 measures 1*00 To food on the road for donkeys, 16 doti Merikani. 8*00 To food for 5 men, 25 doti ....... 12-50 „ „ 15 lbs. of beads 3-00 g 363 -83 Value of Goods conveyed. To 18 bales of cloth containing — 540 doti Kaniki at 25c g 135 '00 675 doti Merikani at 50c 337*50 The cost of carriage in this case is much less, and what is in favor of the donkey as a beast of burden, is, that it carries much more than two pagazis will, upon occasion. Two pagazis with all the necessaries cost Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAGAMOTO. 66 about $37*01, one donkey costs upon the same ternas say about $36*40. These are only according to the sums above quoted. But Farquhar could have led into Unyanyembe, twenty donkeys as easily as ten ; the cost of carriage would then be greatly in favor of the donkeys. If we take into consideration that Burton's thirtv-three donkeys all died before they reached Unyanyembe, we must also remember that he states that all his pagazis deserted or tried to desert on the march. But we shall be better able to judge of the relative value of donkeys and pagazis after I have arrived at Unyanyembe ; until til en we will leave the question open. The setting-out of the first caravan enlightened me also upon the subject of honga, or tribute. Tribute had to be packed by itself, all of choice cloth ; for the chiefs, besides being avaricious, are also very fastidious. They will not accept the flimsy colored cloth of the pagazi, but a royal and exceedingly high-priced dab- wani, IsmahiJi, Rehani, or a Sohari, or dotis of crimson broad cloth. The tribute for the first caravan cost $25. Having more than one hundred and forty pagazis to despatch, this tribute money would amount finally to $330 in gold, with a premium of 25c. on each dollar. Ponder on this, traveller ! I lay bare these facts for your special instruction. But before my first caravan was destined to part company with me, Soor Hadji Palloo — worthy young man— and 1, were to come to a definite understanding about money matters. The morning appointed for de- parture Soor Hadji Palloo came to my hut and pre- sented his bill, with all the gravity of innocence, for supplying the pagazis with twentj-five doti each as iheir hire to Unyanyembe, begging immediate payment in money. Words fail to express the astonishment I 56 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. naturally felt, that this sharp-looking young man shoula so soon have forgotten the verbal contract entered into between him and myself the morning previous, v^hich was to the effect that out of the three thousand doti stored in my tent, and bought expressly for pagazi hire, each and every man hired for me as carriers from Bagamoyo to Unyanyembe, should be paid out of the store there in my tent. When I asked if he remem- bered the contract, he replied in the affirmative : his reasons for breaking it so soon were, that he wished to sell his cloths, not mine, and for liis cloths he should want money, not an exchange. But I gave him to comprehend that as he was procuring pagazis for me, he was to pay my pagazis with my cloths; that all the money I expected to pay him, should be just such a sum as I thought adequate for his trouble as my agent, and that only on those terms should he act for me in this or any other matter, and that the " Musungu " was not accustomed to eat his words. The preceding paragraph embodies many more words than are contained in it. It embodies a dialogue of an hour, an angry altercation of half-an-hour's duration, a vow taken on the part of Soor Hadji Palloo, that if I did not take his cloths he should not touch my busi- ness, many tears, entreaties, woeful penitence, and much else, all of which were responded to with, " Do as I want you to do, or do nothing." Finally came relief, and a happy ending. Soor Hadji Palloo went away with a bright face, taking with him the three soldiers' posho (food), and honga (tribute) fbv the caravan. Well for me that it ended * so_, and that subsequent quarrels of a similar nature terminated so peaceably, otherwise I doubt whether my departure from Bagamoyo would have happened so early as it did. While I am Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAOAMOTO. 67 on this theme, and as it really engrossed every moment of my time at Bagamoyo, I may as well be more ex plicit regarding Soor Hadji Palloo and his connection with my business. Soor Hadji Palloo was a smart young man of business, energetic, quick at mental calculation, and seemed to be born for a successful salesman. His eyes were never idle, they wandered over every part of my person, over the tent, the bed, the guns, the clothes, and having swung clear round, began the silent circle over again. His fingers were never at rest, they had a fidgety, nervous action at their tips, constantly in the act of feeling something ; while in the act of talking to me, he would lean over and feel the texture of the cloth of my trousers, my coat, or my shoes or socks ; then he would feel his own light jamdani shirt or dab- wain loin-cloth, until his eyes casually resting upon a novelty, his body would lean forward, and his arm was stretched out with the willing fingers. His jaws also were in perpetual motion, caused by vile habits he had acquired of chewing betel-nut and lime, and sometimes tobacco and lime. They gave out a sound similar to that of a young shoat, in the act of sucking. He was a pious Mohammedan, and observed the external cour- tesies and ceremonies of the true believers. He would affably greet me, take off his shoes, enter my tent protesting he was not fit to sit in my presence, and after being seated, would begin his ever-crooked errand. Of honesty, literal and practical honesty, this youth knew nothing ; to the pure truth he was an utter stranger; the falsehoods he had uttered during his short life seemed already to have quenched the bold gaze of innocence from his eyes, to have banished the 3olor of truthfulness from his features, to have trans- 58 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, formed him — yet a stripling of twenty — into a most ac- complished rascal, and consummate expert in dishonesty. During the six weeks I encamped at Bagamoyo, waiting for my quota of men, this lad of twenty gave me as much trouble as all the scoundrelism of New York gives to her Chief of Police. He was found out half a dozen times a day in dishonesty, yet was in no way abashed by it. He would send in his account of the cloths supplied to the pagazis, stating them to be 25 paid to each ; on sending a man to inquire I would find the greatest number to have been 20, and the smallest 12. Soor Hadji Palloo described the cloths to be of first-class quality, Ulyah cloths, worth in the market four times more than the ordinary quality given to the pagazis, yet a personal examination would prove them to be the flimsiest goods sold, such as American sheeting 2^ feet broad, and worth $2*75 per 30 yards a piece at Zanzibar, or the most inferior Kaniki which is generally sold at $9 per score. He would personally come to my camp and demand 40 lbs. of Sami-Sami, Merikani, and Bubu beads for posho, or caravan rations ; an inspection of their store before departure from their first camp from Bagamoyo would . show a deficiency ranging from 5 to 30 lbs. Moreover, he cheated in cash-money, such as demanding $4 for crossing the Engani Ferry for every ten pagazis, when the fare was $2 for the same number ; and an unconscionable amount of pice (copper coins equal in value to | of a cent) was required for posho. It was every day for four weeks that this system of roguery was carried out. Each day conceived a dozen new schemes ; every instant of his time he seemed to be devising how to plunder, until I was fairly at my wits' end how to thwart him. Ex- posure before a crowd of his fellows brought no blush of Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAOAMOYO, 6S shame to his sallow cheeks; he would listen with a mere shrug of the shoulders and that was all, which I might interpret any way it pleased me. A threat to reduce his present had no effect ; a bird in the hand was certainly worth two in the bush for him, so ten dollars' worth of goods stolen and in his actual possession was of more intrinsic value, than the promise of $20 in a few days, though it was that of a Musungu's. Eeaders will of course ask themselves why I did not, after the first discovery of these shameless proceedings, close my business with him, to which I make reply, that I could not do without him unless his equal were forth- coming, that I never felt so thoroughly dependent on any one man as I did upon him ; without his or his duplicate's aid, I must have stayed at Bagamoyo at least six months, at the end of which time the Expedition would have become valueless, the rumour of it having been blown abroad to the four winds. It was imme- diate departure that was essential to my success — depar- ture from Bagamoyo — after which it might be possible for me to control my own future in a great measure. These troubles were the greatest that I could at this time imagine. I have already stated that I had $1,750 worth of pagazis' clothes, or 3,500 doti, stored in my tent, and above what my bales contained. Calculating one hundred and forty pagazis at 25 doti each, I sup- posed I had enough, yet, though I had been trying to teach the young Hindi that the Musungu was n©t a fool, nor blind to his pilfering tricks, though the 3,500 doti were all spent ; though I had only obtained one hundred and thirty pagazis at 25 doti each, which in the aggregate amounted to 3,200 doti : Soor Hadji Palloo's bill was $1,400 cash extra. His plea was that he had furnished Ulyah clothes for Muhongo 240 doti, 60 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. equal in value to 960 of my doti, that the money was spent in ferry pice, in presents to chiefs of caravans ^f tents, guns, red broad cloth, in presents to people on the Mrima (coast) to induce them to hunt up pagazis. Upon this exhibition of most ruthless cheating I waxed indignant, and declared to him that if he did not run over his bill and correct it, he should go without a pice. But before the bill could be put into proper shape^ my words, threats, and promises falling heedlessly on a stony brain, a man, Kanjee by name, from the store of Tarya Topan, of Zanzibar, had to come over, when the bill was finally reduced to $738. Without any dis- respect to Tarya Topan, I am unable to decide which is the most accomplished rascal, Kanjee, or young Soor Hadji Palloo ; in the words of a white man who knows them both, ** there is not the splitting of a straw be- tween them." Kanjee is deep and sly, Soor Hadji Palloo is bold and incorrigible. But peace be to them both, may their shaven heads never be covered with the troublous crown I wore at Bagamoyo ! My dear friendly reader, do not think, if I speak out my mind in this or in any other chapter upon matters seemingly trivial and unimportant, that seeming such they should be left unmentioned. Every tittle related is a fact, and to know facts is to receive knowledge. How could I ever recite my experience to you if I did not enter upon these miserable details, which sorely distract the stranger upon his first arrival ? Had I been a Grovernment official, I had but wagged my finger and my quota of pagazis had been furnished me within a week, but as an individual arriving without the graces of official recognition, armed with no Govern- ment influence, I had to be patient, bide my time^ Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAQAMOYO. « and chew the cud of irritation quietly, but the bread I ate was not all sour, as this was. The white men, Farquhar and Shaw, were kept steadily at* work upon water-proof tents of hemp canvas, for I perceived, by the premonitory showers of rain that marked the approach of the Masika that an ordinary tent of light cloth would subject myself to damp and my goods to mildew, and while there was time to rectify all errors that had crept into my plans through igno- rance or overhaste, I thought it was not wise to permit things to rectify themselves. Now that I have returned uninjured in health, though I have suffered the attacks of twenty- three fevers within the short space of thirteen months, I must confess I owe my life, first, to the mercy of God ; secondly, to the enthusiasm for my work, which animated me from the beginning to the end ; thirdly, to having never ruined my constitution by indulgence in vice and intemperance ; fourthly, to the energy of my nature ; fifthly, to a native hopefulness which never died ; and, sixthly, to having furnished myself with a capacious water and damp proof canvas house. And here, if my experience may be of value, I would suggest that travellers, instead of submitting their better judgment to the caprices of a tent-maker, who will endeavour to pass off a handsomely made fabric of his own, which is unsuited to all climes, to use his own judgment, and get the best and strongest that money will buy. In the end it will prove the cheapest, and perhaps be the means of saving his life. On one point I failed, and lest new and young travellers fall into the same error which marred much of my enjoyment, this paragraph is written. One must be extremely careful in his choice of weapons, whether for sport or defence. A traveller should have 62 BOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. at least three different kinds of guns. One should be a fowling-piece, the second should be a double-barrelled rifle, No. 10 or 12, the third should be a magazine- rifle, for defence. For the fowling-piece" I would suggest No. 12 bore^ with barrels at least four feet in length. For the rifle for larger game, I would point out, with due deference to old sportsmen, of course, that the best guns for African game are the English Lancaster and O'Reilly rifles; and for a fighting weapon, I maintain that the best yet invented is the American Winchester repeating rifle, or the " sixteen- shooter " as it is called, supplied with the London Eley's ammunition. If I suggest as a fighting weapon the American Winchester, I do not mean that the traveller need take it for the purpose of offence, but as the best means of efficient defence, to save his own life against African banditti, when attacked, a thing likely to happen any time. I met a young man soon after returning from the interior, who declared his conviction that the " Express " rifle was the most perfect weapon ever invented to destroy African game. Very possibly the young man may be right, and that the " Express rifle " is all he declares it to be, but he had never practised with it against African game, and as I had never tried it, I could not combat his assertion : but I could relate my experiences with weapons, having all the penetrating powers of the " Express," and could inform him that though the bullets penetrated through the animals, they almost always failed to bring down the game at the first fire. On the other hand, I could inform him, that during the time 1 travelled with Dr. Livingstone the Doctor lent me his heavy " O'Reilly " rifle with which I seldom failed to bring an animal or two home to the Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAGAMOTO. 68 camp, and that I found the Fraser shell answer all purposes for which it was intended. The feats related by Capt. Speke and Sir Samuel Baker are no longer matter of wonderment to the young sportsman, when he has a Lancaster or an O'Reilly in his hand. After a very few trials he can imitate them, if not excel their deeds, provided he has a steady hand. And i1 is to forward this end that this paragraph is written. African game require '* bone-crushers ;" for any ordinarji carbine possesses sufficient penetrative qualities, yet- has not the disabling qualities which a gun must pos- sess, to be useful in the hands of an African explorer. I had not been long at Bagamoyo before I went over to Mussoudi's camp, to visit the " Livingstone caravan " which the British Consul had despatched on the first day of November, 1870, to the relief of Livingstone. The number of packages was thirty-five, which required as many men to convey them to Un- yanyembe. The men chosen to escort this caravan were composed of Johannese and Wahiyow, seven in number. Out of the seven, four were slaves. They lived in clover here — thoughtless of the errand they had been sent upon, and careless of the consequences. What these men were doing at Bagamoyo all this time I never could conceive, except indulging their own vicious propensities. It would be nonsense to say there were no pagazis ; because I know there were at least fifteen caravans which had started for the interior since the Ramadan (December 15th, 1870). Yet Livingstone's caravan had arrived at this little town of Bagamoyo November 2nd, and here it had been lying until the 10th February, in all, 100 days, for lack of the limited number of thirty-five pagazis, a number that might be procured within two days through consular influence. 64 . HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. If the British Consul puts forward a plea that he was Dot aware that his supplies to Liviugstone were still halted at Bagamojo, it will only prove to me that he was more culpably negligent than ever of his duty to a British subject and a brother official, who was left completely dependent on him for even the means to live. For it was at Zanzibar on the first evening of my arrival that I was first informed that there was a caravan at Bagamoyo about to start for the interior with supplies for Dr. Livingstone ; I then did not know whether it was an easy or a difficult thing to despatch a caravan into the interior. My surprise may be better imagined than described, when I discovered that this caravan, requiring only thirty-five men, de- spatched by the British Consul, had left Zanzibar on about the 1st or 2nd of November, 1870, and was still encamped at Bagamoyo on the 10 th February, 1871, a period of one hundred da ys ! '''' Why," I asked myself, " if a small body of thirty-five men cannot be collected within one hundred days by a British Consul, how many days must elapse before a mere private individual like myself can collect one hundred and forty men ? " On or about the 10th of February, a rumour was spread throughout the bazaars at Bagamoyo, which reached my camp, that the " Balyuz " — technically interpreted "ambassador** — was coming to visit Baga- moyo, for the purpose of despatching Livingstone's caravan. That same evening or the next morning Livingstone's caravan in a fright started for the in-^ terior with but four of the escort. Two days afterwards H.M.S. Columbine, Capt. Tucker, appeared off Bagamoyo, with Dr. Kirk, the acting British Consul and political resident, on board. The evening of the Columbine's arrival off our A^ icaw F«B, 1871.] LIFE AT BAQAMOYO. 66 port, I rode up to the French mission, whither Dr. Kirk, Capt. Tucker, and liis executive officer, accompanied by M. de Vienne, the French Consul, had gone, according to a hospitable invitation from Pere Horner, superior of the Mission. I found them at dinner and was invited to take wine with them. The conversation turned partly upon the anticipated pleasures of a hunt which they were organizing. At 6 A.M. the next morning Dr. Kirk, Capl Tucker, his executive officer, Consul de Yienne, and P^re Horner started for the Kingani River ; later in the day I also proceeded to the Kingani with Farquhar, Shaw, and Sayd bin Sayf, to shoot hippopotami. As we were returning to camp, in the plain of the Kingani, we met Pere Horner, coming, so he said, from Kikoka, the first camp on the Unyanyembe road from Bagamoyo, whither he had gone to accompany the sportsmen. On the following Friday evening the English Con- sul's party returned from the hunt. I dined with them that evening, and the subject of conversation was mainly upon their experiences in the woods beyond the Kingani. I was informed by Dr. Kirk that the officers of the " Columbine," with their pea-rifles, had not been able to shoot a thing. The only animals killed had been shot by himself; ard, to get any sport at all, he had been obliged to proceed alone into the forest. "They know now*' (referring to the officers), said Dr. Kirk, " what reliance is to be placed on Sniders when levelled against African game." At 9 A.M. the next morning Dr. Kirk and a French padre paid me a visit at my camp. The former could only be prevailed upon to take a cup of tea, as he was going, he said, to see about Livingstone's caravan. F 66 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. About 11 A.M. I heard that Dr. Kirk had gone on board the " Columbine," and that the children of the French Mission had also gone with a full brass-band of musicians to entertain the sailors. Between 3 and 4 p.m. the " Columbine " departed for Zanzibar. Bagamoyo has a most enjoyable climate. It is far preferable in every sense to that of Zanzibar. We were able to sleep in the open air, and rose refreshed and healthy each morning, to enjoy our matutinal bath in the sea ; and bythe time the sun had risen we were engaged in multitudinous preparations for our departure ['or the interior. Our days were enlivened by visits from the Arabs who were also bound for Unyanyembe ; by comical scenes in the camp, sometimes by court- martials held on the refractory, by a boxing-match between Farquhar and Shaw, necessitating ray prudent interference when they waxed too wroth ; by a hunt- ing excursion now and then to the Kingani plain and river ; by social conversation with the old Jemadar and his band of Baluches, who were never tired of warning me that the Masika was at hand, and of advising me that my best course was to hurry on before the season for travelling expired. John Shaw would get sadly out of temper when these visits were paid by the swart magnates of Baga- moyo. Upon these occasions my first duty, following the custom of the Arabs, was to offer refreshments and coffee to my visitors, and to serve them first, before passing the tray to the white men. I observed that Shaw seemed very indignant, and upon inquiring the cause, I was informed that I had given him great offence by having the Arabs — " niggers " as he was pleased to term them — served before he — a white man — was. Poor Shaw 1 ignorant as a babe of the Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BJGAMOTO. 6'/ calamities in store for him in that country to which his thoughts were now directed, what would he not have given to know that this supposed slight on his colour was the least trouble to be borne on this venturesome Expedi- tion ! He fully showed the uneducated j^.nglo-Saxon's inaptitude for travel and intercourse with other races. As the days passed by I found it was necessary to separate Farquhar from Shaw. The latter proved to be a character without a grain of humor, but with a fund of vanity that was easily alarmed, and a fond ambition which soared into the empyrean with him, carrying him often beyond all bounds of human conception. Farquhar by himself I thought would be much better off than with Shaw, who had certainly a most irri- tating manner to a man of Farquhar's temper and intelligence. I therefore chose him to lead the third caravan into the interior, and upon this announcement of my intentions peace was immediately restored between the contumacious belligerents. Among the employes with the Expedition were two Hindi and two Goanese. They had conceived the idea that the African interior was an El Dorado, the ground of which was strewn over with ivory tusks, and they had clubbed together, while their imaginations were thus' heated, to embark in a little enterprise of their own. Their names were Jako, Abdul Kader, Bunder Salaam, and Aranselar ; Jako engaged in my service as carpenter and general help ; Abdul Kader as a tailor, Bunder Salaam as cook, and Aranselar as chief butler. But Aranselar, with an intuitive eye, foresaw that I was likely to prove a vigorous employer, and while there was yet time he devoted most of it to conceive how it were possible to withdraw from the engagement. He received permission upon asking for it to go to Zanzibar to visit his friends. Two days afterwards I F 2 88 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. was informed he had blown his right eye out, and received a medical confirmation of the fact, and note of the extent of the injury, from Dr. Christie, the physician to His Highness Syed Burghash. His compatriots I imagined were about planning the same thing, but a peremptory command to abstain from such folly, issued after they had received their advance-pay, sufficed to check any sinister designs they may have formed. A groom was caught stealing from the bales, one night, and the chase after him into the country until he vanished out of sight into the jungle, was one of the most agreeable diversions which occurred to wear away the interval employed in preparing for the march. I had now despatched four caravans into the interior, and the fifth, which was to carry the boats and boxes, personal luggage, and a few cloth and bead loads, was ready to be led by myself The following is the order of departure of the caravans. 1871. Feb. 6. — Expedition arrived at Bagamoyo. 1871. Feb. 18. — First caravan departs with twenty- four pagazis and three soldiers. 1871. Feb. 21. — Second caravan departs with twenty- eight pagazis, two chiefs, and two soldiers. 1871. Feb. 25. — Third caravan departs with twenty- two pagazis, ten donkeys, one white man, one cook, and three soldiers. 1871. March 11. — Fourth caravan departs with fifty- five pagazis, two chiefs, and three soldiers. 1871. March 21. — Fifth caravan departs with twenty-eight pagazis, twelve soldiers, two white men, one tailor, one cook, one interpreter, one gun-bearer seventeen asses, two horses, and one dog. Total number, inclusive of all souls, comprised in caravans connected with the ^' New York Herald Expedition," 192. PORTRAIT OF BOMBAY AND MABRUKI. CHAPTER IV. THROUGH UKTVERE, CKAMI, AND UDOEVJTO USEGUHHA. Qo pom Bagamoyo to — h. m. From Msuwa to— h. m. Shamba Gonera . . 1 30 Kisemo . 4 30 Kikoka . 3 40 Mussoudi . . . 4 20 Rosako . . . . 5 Mikeseh . . . . 7 Kin gam . . 6 Muhalleh . . . 6 46 Imbiki .... . 4 30 Simbamwenni . . 3 Msuwa . 4 30 Before I proceed with this chapter a brief space must be given to an apology which I tender to my readers. Ego is first and foremost in this book. I am obliged to exhibit him as he actually was, not as he should be ; as he behaved, not as he should have behaved; as he travelled, not as he ought to have travelled. I must, for conscience' sake, report all things literally as they occurred, and to the best of my ability record the 70 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. incidents and accidents which befell the Expedition, However stay-at-home, chimney-corner, and easy-chair loving people may regard the merits of this book, the greatest praise and the greatest thanks will be bestowed on it by travellers who may succeed me in East Africa ; for they will at once perceive the useful lessons taught them by my haps and mishaps. On the 21st of March, exactly seventy-three days after my arrival at Zanzibar, the fifth caravan, led by myself, left the town of Bagamoyo for our first journey westward, with " Forward !" for its mot du guet. As the kirangozi unrolled the American flag, and put him- self at the head of the caravan, and the pagazis, animals, soldiers, and idlers were lined for the march, we bade a long farewell to the dolce far niente of civilised life, to the blue ocean, and to its open road to home, to the hundreds of dusky spectators who were there to cele- brate our departure with repeated salvoes of musketry. Our carava0is composed of twenty-eight pagazis, in- cluding the kirangozi, or guide ; twelve soldiers under Capt. Mbarak Bombay, in charge of seventeen donkeys and their loads ; Selim, my boy interpreter, in charge of the donkey and cart and its load ; one cook and sub, who is also to be tailor and ready hand for all, and leads the grey horse ; Shaw, once mate of a ship, now transformed into rearguard and overseer for the caravan, who is mounted on a good riding-donkey, and wearing a canoe-like topee and sea-boots ; and lastly, on a splendid bay horse (presented to me by Mr. Groodhue, an American gentleman, long resident at Zanzibar), myself, called " Bana Mkuba," the " big master," by my people — the vanguard, the reporter, the thinker, and leader of the Expedition. Tlie several members composing the caravan are well March, 1871.] TIIIWUOH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEQUHEA. 71 known to me already. They have been the subjects of srucly and selection, and no fault has been found with them yet ; still, as it is rather premature to describe their characters, I shall confine myself at this time to simply naming the principal personages in the order and rank they hold : 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. soldier. John W. Shaw, rearguard and overseer. Mbarak Bombay, captain of soldiers. Uledi (Speke's valet), sergeant. Mabruki (Burton's valet), tentguard. Mabruki the Little Mabruk Saleem Zaidi .... Kamna .... Sarmian .... Ferajji (a runaway of Speke's) Kingaru .... Ambari .... Selim (boy from Jerusalem), Arab interpreter. Bunder Salaam (of Malabar), cook. Abdul Kader „ tailor and help. Hamadi (Wangwana), kirangozi. Sarboko Jafooneh Farjalla Khamisi Asmani Chamba Shubari Makoriga Khamis pagazi. Probably some of these people above named will acquire habits or exhibit characters very different from 72 HOW I FOUND LIVIN(jtSTONK those I imagined them to have while en route to Tin* yanyembe. We shall be better judges of them aud their points when we shall have arrived at Tabora, where a general muster will be made for inspection^ and to hear the reports of the four caravans which have preceded us. Altogether the Expedition numbers on the day of departure three white men, twenty-three soldiers, four supernumeraries, four chiefs, and one hundred and fifty-three pagazis, twenty-seven donkeys, and one cart, conveying cloth, beads, and wire, boat-fixings, tents, cooking utensils and dishes, medicine, powder, small shot, musket-balls, and metallic cartridges ; instruments and small necessaries, such as soap, sugar, tea, coffee, Liebig's extract of meat, pemmican, candles, &c., which make a total of 153 loads. The weapons of defence which the Expedition possesses consist of one double- barrel breech-loading gun, smooth bore ; one American Winchester rifle, or " sixteen-shooter ;" one Henry rifle, or '' sixteen-shoofer ;" two Starr's breech-loaders, one Jocelyn breech-loader, one elephant rifle, carrying balls eight to the pound ; two breech-loading revolvers, twenty -four muskets (flint-locks), six single-barreled pistols, one battle-axe, two swords, two daggers (Per- sian kummers, purchased at Shiraz by myself), one boar-spear, two American axes 4 lbs. each, twenty-four hatchets, and twenty-four butcher-knives. The Expedition has been fitted with care ; whatever it needed was not stinted ; everything was provided. Nothing was done too hurriedly, yet everything was purchased, manufactured, collected, and compounded with the utmost despatch consistent with efficiency and means. Should it fail of success in its errand of rapid transit to Ujiji and back, it must simply happen from an accident which could not be controlled. So much Mabch, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 73 for the personnel of the Expedition and its purpose, until its point de mire be reached. We left Bagamoyo the attraction of all the curious, with much eclat, and defiled up a narrow lane shaded almost to twilight by the dense umbrage of two parallel hedges of mimosas. We were all in the highest spirits. The soldiers sang, the kirangozi lifted his voice into a loud bellowing note, and fluttered the American flag, which told all on-lookers, " Lo, a Mu- sungu's caravan !" and my heart, I thought, palpitated much too quickly for the sober face of a leader. But I could not check it ; the enthusiasm of youth still clung to me — despite my travels ; my pulses bounded with the full glow of staple health ; behind me were the troubles which had harassed me for over two months. With that dishonest son of a Hindi, Soor Hadji Palloo, I had said my last word ; of the blatant rabble of Arabe,- Banyans, and Baluches I had taken my last look ; with the Jesuits of the French Mission I had exchanged farewells, and before me beamed the sun of promise as he sped towards the Occident. Loveliness glowed around me. I saw fertile fields, riant vegetation, strange trees — I heard the cry of cricket and pee-wit, and sibilant sound of many insects, all of which seemed to tell me, " At last you are started." What could I do but lift my face toward the pure-glowing sky, and cry, " Grod be thanked 1" The first camp, Shamba Gronera, we arrived at in 1 hour 30 minutes, equal to 3i miles. This first, or " little journey," was performed very well, " considering," as the Irishman says. The boy Selim upset the cart not more than three times. Zaidi, the soldier, only once let his donkey, which carried one bag of my clothes and a box of ammunition, lie in a puddle of black water. The 74 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. clothes liad to be re- washed ; the ammunition-box, thanks to mj prevision, was waterproof. Kamna perhaps knew the art of donkey-driving, but, over- joyful at the departure, had sung himself into oblivion of the difficulties with which an animal of the pure asi- nine breed has naturally to contend, such as not know- ing the right road, and inabiHty to resist the temptation of straying into the depths of a manioc field ; and the donkey, ignorant of the custom in vogue amongst ass- drivers of flourishing sticks before an animal's nose, and misunderstanding the direction in which he was required to go, ran off at full speed along an opposite road, until his pack got unbalanced, and he was fain to come to the earth. But these incidents were trivial, of no importance, and natural to the first " little journey " in East j^^frica. The soldiers' points of character leaked out just a little. Bombay turned out to be honest and trusty, but slightly disposed to be dilatory. Uledi did more talking than work ; while the runaway Ferajji and the useless- handed Mabruki Burton turned out to be true men and staunch, carrying loads the sight of which would have caused the strong-limbed hamals of Stamboul to sigh. The saddles were excellent, surpassing expectation. The strong hemp canvas bore its one hundred and fifty- pounds' burden with the strength of bull hide, and the loading and unloading of miscellaneous baggage was performed with systematic despatch. In brief, there was nothing to regret — the success of the journey proved our departure to be anything but premature. The next three days were employed in putting the finishing touches to our preparations for the long land journey and our precautions against the Masika, which 1 Mabch, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 76 was now ominously near, and in settling accounts. The soldiers and pagazis employed the interval in visiting their female friends ; but I forbear the chro- nique scandaleuse, Shamba Gonera means Gonera's Field. Gonera is a wealthy Indian widow, well disposed towards the Wasungu (whites). She exports much cloth, beads, and wire into the far interior, and imports in return much ivory. Her house is after the model of the town houses, with long sloping roof and projecting eaves, affording a cool shade, under which the pagazis love to loiter. On its southern and eastern sides stretch the cultivated fields which supply Bagamoyo with the staple grain, matama, of East Africa; on the left grow Indian corn, and muhogo, a yam-like root of whitish color, called by some manioc ; when dry, it is ground and compounded into cakes similar to army slapjacks. On the north, just behind the house, winds a black quag- mire, a sinuous hollow, which in its deepest parts always contains water — the muddy home of the brake- and rush- loving " kiboko " or hippopotamus. Its banks, crowded with dwarf fan-palm, tall water-reeds, acacias, and tiger-grass, afford shelter to numerous aquatic birds, pelicans, &c. After following a course north-easterly, it conflows with the Kingani, which, at the distance of four miles from Gonera's country-house, bends eastward into the sea. To the west, after a mile of cultivation, fall and recede in succession the sea-beaches of old in lengthy parallel waves, overgrown densely with forest grass and marsh reeds. On the spines of these land- swells flourish ebony, calabash, and mango. " Sofari — sofari leo ! Pakia, pakia !" — " A journey — a journey to-day ! Set out ! — set out !" rang the cheery voice of the kirangozi, echoed by that of my drum- t6 SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. major, servant, general help and useful hand, the Arab boy Selim, on the morning of the fourth day, which was that fixed for our departure in earnest. As I hurried my men to their work^ and lent a hand with energy to drop the tents, I mentally resolved that, if my caravans ahead should give me clear space, Unyanyembe should be our resting-place before three months expired. By 6 A.M. our early breakfast was despatched, and the donkeys and pagazis were defiling from Camp Gonera. Evon at this early hour, and in this country place, there was quite a collection of curious natives, to whom we gave the parting " quahary" with sincerity. My bay horse was found to be invaluable for the service of a quarter-master of a transport-train ; for to such was I compelled to compare myself. I could stay behind until the last donkey had quitted the camp, and, by a few minutes' gallop, I could put myself at the head, leaving Shaw to bring up the rear. The road was a mere footpath, and led over a soil, which, though sandy, was of surprising fertility, produc- ing grain and vegetables a hundredfold, the sowing and planting of which was done in the most unskilful manner. In their fields, at heedless labor, were men and women in the scantiest costumes, compared to whicli Adam and Eve, in their fig-leaf apparel, must have been en grande tenue. Nor were they at all abashed by the devouring gaze of men who were strangers to clotheless living bodies, nor did they seem to comprehend why inordinate curiosity should be returned with more than interest. They left their work as the Wasungu drew nigh ; such hybrids in solar topees, white flannels, and horse-boots were they ! Had the Wasungu been desirous of studying the outlines of anatomy and physiology, what a rich field for study ! We passed them with MAiiCH, 1871.] TEBOUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEOUHHA. 77 serious faces, while they laughed and giggled, and pointed their index fingers at this and that, which to them seemed so strange and bizarre. In about half an hour we had left the tall matama and fields of water-melons, cucumbers, and manioc ; and, crossing a reedy slough, were in an open forest of ebony and calabash. In its depths are deer in plentiful numbers, and at night it is visited by the hippopotami of the Kingani for the sake of its grass. In another hour we had emerged from the woods, and were looking down upon the broad valley of the Kingani, and a scene presented itself so utterly different from what my foolish imagination had drawn, that I felt quite relieved by the pleasing disappointment. Here was a valley stretching four miles east and west, and about eight miles north and south, left with the richest soil to its own wild growth of grass — which in civilisation would have been a most valuable meadow for the rearing of cattle — in- vested as it was by dense forests, darkening the horizon at all points of the compass, and folded in by tree-clad ridges. At the sound of our caravan the red antelope bounded away to our right and the left, and frogs hushed their croak. The sun shone hot, and while traversing the valley we experienced a little of its real African fervor. About half-way across we came to a sluice of stagnant water which, directly in the road of the caravan, had settled down into an oozy pond. The pagazis crossed a hastily-constructed bridge, thrown up a long time ago by some Washensi Samaritans. It was an extra- ordinary afikir ; rugged tree limbs resting on very unsteady forked piles, and it had evidently tested the patience of many a loaded Mnyamwezi, as it did those porters of our caravan. Our weaker animals were 78 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. unloaded, the puddle between Bagamoyo and Gonera having taught us prudence. But this did not occasion much delay, the men worked smartly under Shaw's supervision. The turbid Kingani, famous for its hippopotami, was reached in a short time, and we began to thread the jungle along its right bank until we were halted point- blank by a narrow sluice having an immeasurable depth of black mud. The difficulty presented by this wad very grave, though its breadth was barely eight feet ; the donkeys and least of all the horses, could not be made to traverse two poles like our biped carriers, neither could tliey be driven into the sluice where they would quickly founder. The only available way of crossing it in safety was by means of a bridge, to endure in this conservative land for generations as the handiwork of the Wasungu. So we set to work, there being no help for it, with American axes — the first of their kind the strokes of which ever rang in this part of the world — to build a bridge. Be sure it was made quickly, for where the civilised white is found, a diffi- culty must vanish. The bridge was composed of six stout trees thrown across, over these were laid cross- wise fifteen pack saddles, covered again with a thick layer of grass. All the animals crossed it safely, and then for a third time that morning the process of wading was performed. The Kingani flowed northerly here, and our course lay down its right bank. A half mile in that direction through a jungle of giant reeds and extravagant climbers brought us to the ferry, where the animals had to be again unloaded — verily, I wished when I saw its deep muddy waters that I possessed the power of Moses with his magic rod, or what would have answered my purpose as well, Aladdin's ring, for then March, 1871 J THROUGH UKWEBE, ETC., TO USEQUHHA, 79 I could have found myself and party on the opposite side without further trouble : but not having either of these gifts I issued orders for an immediate crossing, for it was ill wishing sublime things before this most mundane prospect. Kingwere, the canoe paddler, espying us from his brake covert on the opposite side, civilly responded to our halloes, and brought his huge hollowed tree skilfully over the whirling eddies of the river to where we stood waiting for him. While one party loaded the canoe with our goods, others got ready a long rope to fasten around the animals' necks wherewith to haul them through the river to the other bank. After seeing the work properly commenced, I sat down on a condemned canoe to amuse myself with the hippopotami by peppering their thick skulls with my No. 12 smooth-bore. The Winch.ester rifle (calibre 44), a present from the Hon. Edward Joy Morris — our minister at Constantinople — did no more than slightly tap them, causing about as much injury as a boy's sling ; it was perfect in its accu- racy of fire, for ten times in succession I struck the tops of their heads between the ears. One old fellow, with the look of a sage, was tapped close to the right ear by one of these bullets. Instead of submerging himself as others had done he coolly turned round his head as if to ask, " AYhy this waste of valuable cartridges on us ?" The response to the mute inquiry of his sageship was an ounce-and-a-quarter bullet from the smooth- bore, which made him bellow with pain, and in a few moments lie rose up again tumbling in his death agonies. As his groans were so piteous, I refrained from a useless sacrifice of life, and left the amphibious horde in peace. A little knowledge concerning these uncouth inmates 80 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. of the African waters was gained even during the fe^ minutes we were delayed at the ferry. When undis- turbed by foreign sounds, they congregate in shallow water on the sand bars, with the fore half of their bodies exposed to the warm sunshine, and are in appearance, when thus somnolently reposing, very like a herd of enormous swine. When startled by the noise of an intruder, they plunge hastily into the depths, lashing the waters into a yellowish foam, and scatter themselves below the surface, when presently the heads of a few reappear, snorting the water from their nostrils, to take a fresh breath and a cautious scrutiny around them ; when thus, we see but their ears, forehead, eyes, and nostrils, and as they hastily submerge agair it requires a steady wrist and a quick hand to shoot them. I have heard several comparisons made of their appear- ance while floating in this manner : some Arabs told me before I had seen them that they looked hke dead trees carried down the river ; others who in some country had seen hogs, thought they resembled them, but to my mind they look more like horses when swimming^ — their curved necks and pointed ears, their wide eyes, and expanded nostrils, favor greatly this comparison. At night they seek the shore, and wander several miles over the country, luxuriating among its rank grasses. To within four miles of the town of Bagamoyo (the Kingani is eight miles distant) their wide tracks are seen. Frequently, if not disturbed by the startling human voice, they make a raid on the rich corn-stalks of the native cultivators, and a dozen of them will in a few minutes make a frightful havoc in a large field oi this plant. Consequently, we were not surprised, while delayed at the ferry, to hear the owners of the corn venting loud bailees, like the rosy-cheeked farmer boyg March, 1871.] TUROUOH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUEHA. 81 in England when scaring tlie crows away from the young wheat. The caravan in the meanwhile had crossed safely — bales, baggage, donkeys, and men. I had thought to have camped on the bank, so as to amuse myself with shooting antelope, and also for the sake of procuring their meat, in order to save my goats, of which I had a number constituting my live stock of provisions ; but, thanks to the awe and dread which my men entertained of the hippopotami, I was hurried on to the outpost of the Baluch garrison at Bagamoyo, a small village called Kikoka, distant four miles from the river. The western side of the river was a considerable improvement upon the eastern. The plain, slowly heaving upwards, as smoothly as the beach of a watering-place, for the distance of a mile, until it culminated in a gentle and rounded ridge, presented none of those difficulties which troubled us on the other side. There were none of those cataclysms of mire and sloughs of black mud and over-tall grasses, none of that miasmatic jungle with its noxious emissions ; it was just such a scene as one may find before an English mansion — a noble expanse of lawn and sward, with boscage sufficient to agreeably diversify it. After traversing the open plain, the road led through a grove of young ebony trees, where guinea-fowls and a bartebeest were seen ; it then wound, with all the characteristic eccentric curves of a goat-path, up and down a succession of land- waves crested by the dark green foliage of the mango, and the scantier and lighter- coloured leaves of the enormous calabash^ The depres- sions were filled with jungle of more or less density, while here and there opened glades, shadowed even during noon by thin groves of towering trees. At our o 82 HOW I FOUND L1VIN08T0NB. approacli fled m terror flocks of green pigeons, jaj^s, ibis, turtledoves, golden pheasants, quails and moorhens, with crows and hawks, while now and then a solitary pelican winged its way to the distance. Nor was this enlivening prospect without its pairs of antelope, and monkeys which popped away like Australian kangaroos ; these latter were of good size, with round bullet heads, white breasts, and long tails tufted at the end. We arrived at Kikoka by 5 p.m., having loaded and unloaded our pack animals four times, crossing one deep puddle, a mud sluice, and a river, and performed a journey of eleven miles. The settlement of Kikoka is a collection of straw huts, not built after any architectural style, but after a bastard form, invented by indolent settlers from the Mrima and Zanzibar, for the purpose of excluding as much sunshine as possible from the eaves and interior. A sluice and some wells provide them with water, which tbough sweet is not particularly wholesome or appetizing, owing to the large quantities of decayed matter which is washed into it by the rains, and is then left to corrupt in it. A weak effort has been made to clear the neighbourhood for providing a place for cultivation, but to the dire task of wood-chopping and jungle-clearing the settlers prefer occupying an open glade, which they clear of grass, so as to be able to hoe up two or three inches of soil, into which they cast their seed, confident of return. To induce my readers to open the map which I have prepared, and which accompanies this book, I must state that the route traversed by me was never traversed by a white man previously. If they will also take the trouble of ascertaining the route undertaken by BurtoD Maboh, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 83 and Speke, subsequently by Speke and Grant, there will be found to be a wide difference between mine and that of my predecessors. On Burton's map, the country, for five degrees of longitude directly west of Bagamoyo, is entirely barren of towns and villages and settlements ; on my map this deficiency is supplied, and thus little by little the great heart of Africa is becoming better known. Whatever may be discovered by me on this route, to white men hitherto unknown or unverified, I beg to lay claim even to that little as its discoverer. My object in tendering this request is that a certain travelled gentleman at Zanzibar, who has been residing there some years, tried to deter me from proceeding by this road, by stating that such a journey would be totally devoid of interest, as the whole country was well known. His motives were most generous, he would have wished that I should ascend the Eufiji Eiver, so that it might become known to geographers. From my heart I wished that I could, but circumstances forbade the effort. I was sent out on an errand, not as a discoverer, and the quickest and shortest method of fulfilling my duty was to be my study. If that quickest and shortest method took me along a well- known road traversed by three gentlemen, each of whom has written what he knows of it, the blame or fault is not mine ; but as it has proved that it took me along an untravelled road, through a hitherto un- known country, so much the more fortunate am I. I excluded the Rufiji route from my mind as being totally impracticable with my meaus, and preferred to choose the road through Ukwere, Ukami, Udoe, Useguhha, Usagara, and Northern Ugogo ; the result and duration of the march proves that I could not ha\ e bettered myself, it being a direct western course. 64 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, The next day was a halt at Kikoka ; the fourth caravan, consisting solely of Wanyamwezi, proving a sore obstacle to a rapid advance. Maganga, its chief, devised several methods of extorting more cloth and presents from me, he having cost already more than any three chiefs together, but his efforts were of no avail further than obtaining promises of reward if he would hurry on to Unyanyembe so that I might find my road clear. On the 27th, the Wanyamwezi having started, we broke camp soon after at 7 a.m. The country was of the same nature as that lying between the Kingani and Kikoka — a park land, attractive and beautiful in every feature. I rode in advance to secure meat should a chance present itself, but not the shadow of vert or venison did I see. Ever in our front — westerly — rolled the land- waves, now rising, now subsiding, parallel one with the other like a ploughed field many times magnified. Each ridge had its knot of jungle or its thin combing of heavily foliaged trees, until we arrived close to Rosako, our next halting place, when the monotonous wavure of the land underwent a change, breaking into independent hummocks clad with dense jungle. On one of these, veiled by an impenetrable jungle of thorny acacia, rested Rosako, girt round by its natural fortifica- tion, neighbouring another village to the north of it similarly protected. Between them sank a valley ex- tremely fertile and bountiful in its productions, bisected by a small stream which serves as a drain to the valley or low hills surrounding it. Rosako is the frontier village of Ukwere, while Kikoka is the north-western extremity of Uzaramo. We entered this village, and occupied its central March, 1871.] TEROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEOUHHA. 86 portion with our tents and animals. A kitanda, or square light bedstead, without valance, fringe, or any superfluity whatever, but nevertheless quite as comfortable as with them, was brought to my tent for my use by the village chief. The animals were, imme- diately after being unloaded, driven out to feed, and the soldiers to a man set to work to pile the baggage up, lest die rain, which during the Masika season always appears imminent, might cause irreparable damage. Among other experiments which I was about to try in Africa was that of a good watch-dog on any unmannerly people who would insist upon coming into my tent at untimely hours and endangering valuables. Especially did I wish to try the effect of its bark on the mighty Wgogo, who, I was told by certain Arabs, would lift the door of the tent and enter whether you wished them or not ; who would chuckle at the fear they inspired, and say to you, " Hi, hi, white man, I never saw the like of you before ; are there many more like you ? where do you come from ?" Also would they take hold of your watch and ask you with a cheerful curiosity, " What is this for, white man ?" to which you of course would reply that it was to tell you the hour and minute. But the Wgogo, proud of his prowess, and more unmannerly than a brute, would answer you with a snort of insult, saying, ^' Oh, you fool !" or, " You be damned for a liar!" I thought of a watch-dog, and procured a good one at Bombay not only as a faithful companion, but to threaten the heels of just such gentry. But soon after our arrival at Rosako it was found that the dog, whose name was " Omar," given him from his Turkish origin, was missing ; he had strayed away from the soldiers during a rain-squall and had got lost. I despatched Mabruki Burton back to Kikoka to r 66 now I FOUND LIVINGSTOJSjb. search for him. On the following morning, just as we were about to leave Rosako, the faithful fellow returned ^\dth the lost dog, having found him at Kikoka. Previous to our departure on the morning after this, Maganga, chief of the fourth caravan, brought me the un- happy report that three of his pagazis were sick, and he Avould like to have some " dowa " — medicine. Though not a doctor, or in any way connected with the pro- fession, I had a well-supplied medicine chest — without which no traveller in Africa could live — for just such a contingency as was now present. On visiting Maganga's sick men, I found one suffering from inflammation of the lungs, another from the Mukunguru (African inter- mittent), and the third from a venereal affection. They all imagined themselves about to die, and called loudly for " Mama !" *' Mama !" though they were all grown men. It was evident that the fourth caravan could not stir that day, so leaving word with Maganga to hurry after me as soon as possible, I issued orders for the march of my own. Excepting in the neighbourhood of the villages which we have passed there were no traces of cultivation. The country extending between the several stations is as much a wilderness as the desert of Sahara, though it possesses a far more pleasing aspect. Indeed, had the first man at the time of the Creation gazed at his world and perceived it of the beauty which belongs to this part of Africa, he would have had no cause of com- plaint. In the deep thickets, set like islets amid a sea of grassy verdure, he would have found shelter from the noonday heat, and a safe retirement for himself and spouse during the awesome darkness. In the morning he could have walked forth on the sloping sward, March, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEOUHHA. 87 snjoyed its freshness, and performed his abkitions in one of the many small streams flowing at its foot. His garden of fruit-trees is all that is required ; the noble forests, deep and cool, are round about him, and in their shade walk as many animals as one can desire. For days and days let a man walk in any direction, north, south, east, and west, and he will behold the same scene. Earnestly as I wished to hurry on to Unyanyembe, still a heart-felt anxiety about the arrival of my goods carried by the fourth caravan, served as a drag upon me, and before my caravan had marched nine miles my anxiety had risen to the highest pitch, and caused me to order a camp there and then. The place selected for it was near a long straggling sluice, having an abundance of water during the rainy season, draining as it does two extensive slopes. No sooner had we pitched our camp, built a boma of thorny acacia, and other tree branches, by stacking them round our camp, and driven our animals to grass, than we were made aware of the formidable number and variety of the insect tribe, which for a time was another source of anxiety, until a diligent examination of the several species dispelled it. As it was a most interesting hunt which I instituted for the several specimens of the insects, I here append the record of it for what it is worth. My object in obtaining these specimens was to determine whether the genus Glossina morsitans of the naturalist, or the tsetse (sometimes called setse) of Livingstone, Vardon, Gumming, and Kirk, said to be deadly to horses, was amongst them. I wished to preserve my two horses, if possible ; but Dr. Kirk had, with all the enthusiasm and dogmatism of a hobbyist, foretold the certain death of ray horses from the tsetse fly, which, he said, 88 SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. abounded in great numbers in the country west of Bagamoyo. Up to this date I had been nearly two months in East Africa, and had as yet seen no tsetse ; and my horses, instead of becoming emaciated — for such is one of the symptoms of a tsetse bite — had con- siderably improved in condition. There were three different species of flies which sought shelter in my tent, which, unitedly, kept up a continual chorus of sounds — one performed the basso profondo, another a tenor, and the third a weak contralto. The first emanated from a voracious and fierce fly, an inch long, having a ventral capacity for blood quite astonishing. The terrible fears engendered by Dr. Kirk's asser- tion made it out to be the tsetse, so this was the one chosen for the first inspection, which was of the intensest. I permitted one to alight on my flannel pyjamas, which I wore while en deshabille in camp. No sooner had he alighted than his posterior was raised, his head lowered, and his weapons, consisting of four hair-like styles, unsheathed from the proboscis-like bag which concealed them, and immediately I felt pain like that caused by a dexterous lancet-cut or the probe of a fine needle. I permitted him to gorge himself, though my patience and naturalistic interest were sorely tried. I saw his abdominal parts distend with the plentitude ( f the repast until it had swollen to three times its former shrunken girth, when he flew away of his own accord laden with blood. On rolling up my flannel pyjamas to see the fountain whence the fly had drawn the fluid, I discovered it to be a little above the left knee, by a crimson bead resting over the incision. After wiping the blood the wound was similar to that caused by a deep thrust of a fine needle, but all pain had vanished with the departure of the fly. Mabch, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC, TO U8E0UEHA. 89 Having caught a specimen of this fly, I next pro- ceeded to institute a comparison between it and the tsetse, as described by Dr. Livingstone on pp. 56-57, ' Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa ' (Murray's edition of 1868). The points of disagree- ment are many, and such as to make it entirely im- probable that this fly is the true tsetse, though my men unanimously stated that its bite was fatal to horses as well as to donkeys. A descriptive abstract of the tsetse would read thus : " Not much larger than a common house-fly, nearly of the same brown colour as the honey-bee. After-part of the body has yellow bars across it. It has a peculiar buzz, and its bite is death to the horse, ox, and dog. On man the bite has no effect, neither has it on wild animals. When allowed to feed on the hand, it inserts the middle prong of three portions into which the proboscis divides, it then draws the prong out a little way, and it assumes a crimson color as the mandibles come into brisk opera- tion ; a slight itching irritation follows the bite." The fly which I had under inspection is called mabunga by the natives. It is much larger than the common house-fly, fully a third larger than the common honey-bee, and its color more distinctly marked ; its head is black, with a greenish gloss to it ; the after- part of the body is marked by a white line running lengthwise from its junction with the trunk, and on each side of this white line are two other lines, one of a crimson color, the other of a light brown. As for its buzz, there is no peculiarity in it, it might be mistaken for that of a honey-bee. \V'hen caught it made desperate efforts to get away, but never attempted to bite. This fly, along with a score of others, attacked my grey horse, and bit it so sorely in the legs that they 90 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. appeared as if bathed in blood. Hence, I might have been a little vengeful if, with more than the zeal of an entomologist, I caused it to disclose whatever pecu- liarities its biting parts possessed. In order to bring this fly as life-like as possible before my readers, I may compare its head to a most tiny miniature of an elephant's, because it has a black proboscis and a pair of horny antennse, which in color and curve resemble tusks. The black proboscis, how- ever, is simply a hollow sheath, which encloses,' when not in the act of biting, four reddish and sharp lancets. Under the microscope these four lancets differ in thick- ness, two are very thick, the third is slender, but the fourth, of an opal color and almost transparent, is exceedingly fine. This last must be the sucker when the fly is about to wound, the two horny antennae are made to embrace the part, the lancets are unsheathed, and on the instant the incision is performed. This I consider to be the African " horse-fly." The second fly, which sang the tenor note, more nearly resembled in size and description the tsetse. It was exceedingly nimble, and it occupied three soldiers nearly an hour to capture a specimen ; and, when it was finally caught, it stung most ravenously the hand, and never ceased its efforts to attack until it was pinned through. It had three or four white marks across the after-part of its body ; but the biting parts of this fly consisted of two black antennae and an opal colored style, which folded away under the neck. When about to bite this style was shot out straight, and the antennae embraced it closely. After death the fly lost its dis- tinctive white marks. Only one of this species did we see at this camp. The third fly, called " ehufwa," pitched a weak alto M>^RCH, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEOVHEA. 91 crescendo note, was a third larger than the house fly, and had long wings. If this insect sang the feeblest note, it certainly did tlie most work, and inflicted the most injury. Horses and donkeys streamed with blood, and reared and kicked through the pain. So determined was it not to be driven before it obtained its fill, that it was easily despatched; but this dreadful enemy to cattle constantly increased in numbers. The three species above named are, according to natives, fatal to cattle ; and this may perhaps be the reason why such a vast expanse of first-class pasture is without domestic cattle of any kind, a few goats only being kept by the villagers. This fly 1 subsequently found to be the " tsetse." On the second morning, instead of proceeding, I deemed it more prudent to await the fourth caravan. Burton experimented sufficiently for me on the pro- mised word of the Banyans of Kaole and Zanzibar, and had to wait eleven months before he received the promised articles. As I did not expect to be much over that time on my errand altogether, it would be ruin, absolute and irremediable, should I be detained at Unyanyembe so long a time by my caravan. Pending its arrival, I sought the pleasures of the chase. I was but a tyro in hunting, I confess, though I had shot a little on the plains of America and Persia, yet I considered myself a fair shot ; and on game ground, and within a reasonable proximity to game, I doubted not but I could bring some to camp. After a march of a mile through the tall grass of the open, we gained the glades between the jungles. Un- successful here, after ever so much piying into fine hiding-places and lurking corners, I struck a trail well traversed by small antelope and hartebeest, which we followed. It led me into a jungle, and down a water- 92 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, course bisecting it ; but, after following it for an hour I lost it, and, in endeavouring to retrace it, lost my way. However, my pocket-compass stood me in good stead; and by it I steered for tlie open plain, in the centre of which stood the camp. But it was terribly hard work — this of plunging through an African jungle, ruinous to clothes, and trying to the cuticle. In order to travel quickly, I had donned a pair of flannel pyjamas, and my feet were encased in canvas shoes. As might be expected, before I had gone a few paces a branch of the acacia horrida— only oue of a hundred such annoyances — caught the right leg of my pyjamas at the knee, and ripped it almost clean ojff; succeeding which a stumpy kolquall caught me by the shoulder, and another rip was the inevitable conse- quence. A few yards farther on, a prickly aloe tic plant disfigured by a wide tear the other leg of my pyjamas, and almost immediately I tripped against a convolvulus strong as ratline, and was made to measure my length on a bed of thorns. It was on all fours, like a hound on a scent, that I was compelled to travel ; my solar topee getting the worse for wear every minute ; my skin getting more and more wounded ; my clothes at each step becoming more and more tattered. Besides these discomforts, there was a pungent, acrid plant, which, apart from its strong odorous emissions, struck me smartly on the face, leaving a burning effect similar to cayenne ; and the atmosphere, pent in by the density of the jungle, was hot and stifling, and the perspiration transuded through every pore, making my flannel tatters feel as if I had been through a shower. When I had finally regained the plain and could breathe free, I mentally vowed that the penetralia of an African jungle should not be visited by me again, save under most urgent necessity. BiARCH, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC, TO USEQUHHA. 93 Notwithstanding the ruthless rents in my clothes and my epidermal wounds, as I looked over the grandly undulating plain, lovely with its coat of green verdure, with its boundaries of noble woods, heavy with vernal leafage, and regarded the pretty bosky islets amid its wide expanse, I could not but award it its meed of high praise. Daily the country advanced in my estima- tion, for hitherto I felt that I was but obeying orders ; and sickly as it might be, I was in duty bound to go on ; but, for fear of the terrible fever, made more terrible by the feverish perspective created in my ima- gination by the embitterment of Capt. Burton's book, I vowed I would not step one foot out of my way. Shall I inform you, reader, what 'The Lake Eegions of Central Africa,' and subsequently the reports of European merchants of Zanzibar, caused me to imagine the interior was like? It was that of an immense swamp, curtained round about with the fever — "a species of Yellow Jack," which was sure, if it did not kill me outright, so to weaken body and brain as to render me for the future a helpless imbecile. In this swamp, which extended over two hundred miles into the interior, sported an immense number of hippopo- tami, crocodiles, alligators, lizards, tortoises, and toads ; and the miasma rising from this vast cataclysm of mud, corruption, and putrescence, was as thick and sorely depressing as the gloomy and suicidal fog of London. Ever in my mind in the foreground of this bitter picture were the figures of poor Burton and Speke, " the former a confirmed invalid, and the other perma nently affected " in the brain by this fever. The worm wood and fever tone of Capt. Burton's book I regarded as the result of African disease. But ever since my arrival on the mainland, day by day the pall-like 94 HOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE. curtain had been clearing away, and the cheerless perspective was brightening. We had been now two months on the East African soil, and not one of my men had been sick. • The Europeans had gained in flesh, and their appetites were always in prime order. The second and third day passed without any news of Maganga. Accordingly, Shaw and Bombay were sent to hurry him up by all means. On the fourth morning Shaw and Bombay returned, followed by the procrastinating Maganga and his laggard people. Ques- tions only elicited an excuse that his men had been too sick, and he had feared to tax their strength before they were quite equal to stand the fatigue. Moreover he suggested that as they would be compelled to stay one day more at the camp, I might push on to Kin- garu and camp there, until his arrival. Acting upon which suggestion I broke camp and started for Kin- garu, distant ^\e miles. On this march the land was more broken, and the caravan first encountered jungle, which gave consider- able trouble to our cart. Pisolitic limestone cropped out in boulders and sheets, and we began to imagine ourselves approaching healthy highlands, and as if to give con- firmation to the thought, to the north and north-west loomed the purple cones of Udoe, and topmost of all Dilima Peak, about 1,500 feet in height above the sea level. But soon after sirJ^ing into a bowl-like valley, green with tall corn, the road slightly deviated from north-west to west, the country still rolling before us in wavy undulations. In one of the depressions between these lengthy land- swells stood the village of Kingaru, with surroundings significant in their aspect of ague and fever. Perhaps the clouds surcharged with rain, and the overhanging Mabch, 1871.J THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEQUHHA. 95 ridges and their dense forests dulled by the gloom, made the place more than usually disagreeable, but my first impressions of the sodden hollow, pent in by those dull woods with the deep gully close by containing pools of stagnant water, were by no means agreeable. Before we could arrange our camp and set the tents up, down poured the furious harbinger of the Masika season, in torrents sufficient to damp the ardor and new-born love for East Africa I had lately manifested. However, despite rain, we worked on until our camp was finished and the property was safely stored from weather and thieves, and we could regard with resigna- tion the raindrops beating the soil into mud of a very tenacious kind, and forming lakelets and rivers of our camp-ground. Towards night, the scene having reached its acme of unpleasantness, the rain ceased, and the natives poured into camp from the villages in the woods with their vendibles. Foremost among these, as if in duty bound, came the village sultan — ^lord, chief, or head-^ bearing three measures of matama and half a measure of rice of which he begged, with paternal smiles, my acceptance. But under the smiling mask, bleared eyes, and wrinkled front of him was visible the soul of trickery, which was of the cunningest kind. Eesponding under the same mask adopted by this knavish elder, I said, " The chief of Kingaru has called me a rich sultan. If I am a rich sultan why comes not the chief with a rich present to me that he might get a rich return ?" Said he, with another leer of his wrinkled visage, " Kingaru is poor, there is no matama in the village." To which I replied that since there was no matama in the village I would pay him half a shukka, or a yard of cloth, which would be exactly equivalent 96 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. to his present; that if he preferred to call his small basketful a present, I should be content to call my yard of cloth a present. With which logic he was fain to be satisfied. April 1st. — To-day the Expedition suffered a loss in the death of the grey Arab horse presented by Syed Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar. The night previous I had noticed that the horse was suffering. Bearing in mind what Dr. Kirk, acting British Consul at Zanzibar, had so frequently asserted, namely^ that no horses could live in the interior of Africa because of the tsetse, I had him opened, and the stomach, which I believed to be diseased, examined. Besides much undigested matama and grass there were found twenty-five short, thick^ white worms, sticking like leeches into the coating of the stomach, while the intestines were almost alive with the numbers of long white worms. I was satisfied that neither man nor beast could long exist with such a mass of corrupting life within him. In order that the dead carcase might not taint the valley, I had it buried deep in the ground, about a score of yards from the encampment. From such a slight cause ensued a tremendous uproar from Kingaru — chief of the village — who, with his brother-chiefs of ueighbouring villages, numbering in the aggregate two dozen wattled huts, had taken counsel upon the best means of mulcting the Musungu of a full doti or two of Merikani, and finally had arrived at the conviction that the act of burying a 'dead horse in their soil with- out " By your leave, sir," was a grievous and fineable fault. Affecting great indignation at the unpardonable omission, he, Kingaru, concluded to send to the Musungu four of his young men to say to him that " since you have buried your horse in my ground, it is well; let iLFRiL» 1871.J THBOUOH UKWEBE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA, 97 him remain there, but you must pay me two doti of Merikani." For reply the messengers were told to say to the chief that I would prefer talking the matter over with himself face to face, if he would condescend to visit me in my tent once again. As the village was but a stone's throw from our encampment, before many minutes had elapsed the wrinkled elder made his appearance at the door of my tent with about half the village behind him. The following dialogue which took place will serve to illustrate the tempers of the people with whom I was about to have a year's trading intercourse : — White Man. — " Are you the great chief of Kingaru?" Kingaru, — " Huh-uh. Yes." W, if.—" The great, great chief?" Kingaru. — " Huh-uh. Yes." W. M. — " How many soldiers have you ?" Kingaru. — " Why ?" W, M. — '' How many fighting men have you ?" Kingaru, — " None." W, M. — " Oh ! I thought you might have a thou- sand men with you, by your going to fine a strong white man, who has plenty of guns and soldiers, two doti for burying a dead horse." Kingaru (rather perplexed). — *' No ; I have no soldiers. I have only a few young men." W, M. — " Why do you come and make trouble, then ?" Kingaru. — " It was not I ; it was my brothers who said to me, ' Come here, come here, Kingaru, see what the white man has done ! Has he not taken possession of your soil, in that he has put his horse into your ground without your permission ? Come, go to fiim and see by what right.' Therefore have I come H 98 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. to ask you, who gave you permission to use my soil for a buryiiig-ground ?" W, M. " I want no man's permission to do what is right. My horse died; had I left him to fester and stink in your valley, sickness would visit your village, your water would become unwholesome, and caravans would not stop here for trade; for they would say, *This is an unlucky spot, let us go away.' But enough said ; I understand you to say that you do not want him buried in your ground ; the error I have fallen into is easily put right. This minute my soldiers shall dig him out again, and cover up the soil as it was before ; and the horse shall be left where he died." (Then shouting to Bombay.) " Ho ! Bombay, take soldiers with jembes to dig my horse out of the ground, drag him to where he died, and make everything ready for a march to-morrow morning." Kingaru, his voice considerably higher, and his head moving to and fro with emotion, cries out, " Akuna, akuna, Bana !" — " No, no, master ! Let not the white man get angry. The horse is dead, and now lies buried ; let him remain so, since he is already there, and let us be friends again." The Sheikh of Kingaru being thus brought to his senses, we bid each other the friendly " quahary," and I was left alone to ruminate over my loss. Barely half an hour had elapsed, it was 9 p.m., the camp was in a semi-doze, when I heard deep groans issuing from one of the animals. Upon inquiry as to what animal was suffering, I was surprised to hear that it was my bay horse. With a bull's-eye lantern, I visited him, and perceived that the pain was located in the stomach, but whether it was from some poisonous plant he had 3aten while out grazing, or from some equine disease. Apbil, 1871.] THROUOH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 09 [ did not know. He discharged copious quantities ot loose matter, but there was nothing peculiar in its color. The pain was evidently very great, for the groans were truly piteous, and his struggles very violent. I was up all night, hoping that it was but a temporary effect of some strange and noxious plant; but at 6 o'clock the next morning, after a short period of great agony, he also died ; exactly fifteen hours after his companion. When the stomach was opened, it was found that death was caused by the internal rupture of a large cancer, which had affected the larger half of the coating of his stomach, and had extended an inch or two up the larynx. The contents of the stomach and intestines were deluged with the yellow viscous efflux from the cancer. I was thus deprived of both my horses, and that within the short space of fifteen hours. With my limited knowledge of veterinary science, however strengthened by the actual and positive proofs obtained by the dissection of the two stomachs, I can scarcely dare con- tradict the assertion of Dr. Kirk, and state that horses can live to reach Unyanyembe, or that they can travel with ease through this part of East Africa. But should I have occasion at some future day I should not hesitate to take four horses wnth me, though I should certainly endeavour to ascertain previous to purchase whether they were perfectly sound and healthy, and to those travellers who cherish a good horse I would say, " Try one," and be not discouraged by my unfortunate experiences. The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd of April passed, and nothing had we heard or seen of the ever-lagging fourth caravan In the meanwhile the list of casualties was being aug- mented. Besides the loss of this precious time, through H 2 100 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. the perverseness of the chief of the other caravan, and the loss of my two horses, a pagazi carrying boat-fixtures improved the opportunity, and deserted. My interpreter, Selim, was struck down with a severe attack of ague and fever, and was soon after followed by the cook, then by the assistant cook and tailor, Abdul Kader. Finally, before the third day was over, Bombay had rheumatism, Uledi (Grant's old valet) had a swollen throat, Zaidi had the flux, Kingaru had the Mukunguru ; Khamisi, a pagazi, suffered from a weakness of the loins ; Farjalla had a bilious fever ; and before night closed Makoviga had diarrhoea. My meditated rush towards Unyanyembe, and rapid transit through the dread maritime region, seemed destined to end somewhat similarly to the rush upon Magdala which Dr. Austin, of the London "Times," so particularly urged upon Sir Robert Napier in Abyssinia. Out of a force of twenty -five men one had deserted, and ten were on the sick-list, and the presenti- ment that the ill-looking neighbourhood of Kingaru would prove calamitous to me, was verified. On the 4th April, Maganga and his people appeared, after being heralded by musketry-shots and horn- blowing, the usual signs of an approaching caravan in this land. His sick men were considerably improved, but they required one more day of rest at Kingaru. In the afternoon he came to lay siege to my generosity, by giving details of Soor Hadji Palloo's heartless cheats upon him ; but I informed him, that since I had left Bagamoyo, I could no longer be generous ; we were now in a land where cloth was at a high premium ; that I had no more cloth than I should need to furnish food for myself and men ; that he and his caravan had cost me more money and trouble than any three caravans I had, as indeed was the case. With this counter-state- Atbil, 1871.] THROUGH UKWEBE, ETC^ TO USEGUHHA. 101 ment he was obliged to be content. But I again solved his pecuniary doubts by promising that, if he hurried his caravan on to Unyanyembe, he should have no cause of complaint. The 5th of April saw the fourth caravan vanish for once in our front, with a fair promise that, however fast we should follow, we should not see them the hither side of Sinbamwenni. The following morning, in order to rouse my people from the sickened torpitude they had lapsed into, I beat an exhilarating alarum on a tin pan with an iron ladle, intimating that a sofari was about to be undertaken. This had a very good effect, judging from the extra- ordinary alacrity with which it was responded to. Before the sun rose we started. The Kingaru villagers were out with the velocity of hawks for any rags or refuse left behind us. The long march to Imbiki, fifteen miles, proved that our protracted stay at Kingaru had completely demo- ralized my soldiers and pagazis. Only a few of them had strength enough to reach Imbiki before night. The others, attending the laden donkeys, put in an appear- ance next morning, in a lamentable state of mind and body. Khamisi — the pagazi with the weak loins — had deserted, taking with him two goats, the property tent, and the whole of Uledi's personal wealth, consisting of his visiting dish-dasheh — a long shirt of the Arabic pattern, 10 lbs. of beads, and a few fine cloths, which Uledi, in a generous fit, had entrusted to him, while he carried the pagazi's load, 70 lbs. of Bubu beads. This defalcation was not to be overlooked, nor should Khamisi be permitted to return without an effort to apprehend him. Accordingly Uledi and Ferajji were despatched in pursuit while we rested at Imbiki, in 102 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. orvler to give the dilapidated soldiers and animals time to recruit. On the 8th we continued our journey, and arrived at Msuwa. This march will be remembered by our caravan as the most fatiguing of all, though the distance was but ten miles. It was one continuous jungle, except three interjacent glades of narrow limits, which gave us three breathing pauses in the dire task of jungle travelling. The odour emitted from its fell plants was so rank, so pungently acrid, and the miasma from its decayed vege- tation so dense, that I expected every moment to see my- self and men drop down in paroxysms of acute fever. Happily this evil was not added to that of loading and unloading the frequently falling packs. Seven soldiers to attend seventeen laden donkeys were entirely too small a number while passing through a jungle ; for while the path is but a foot wide, with a wall of thorny plants and creepers bristling on each side, and pro- jecting branches darting across it, with knots of spikey twigs stiff as spike-nails, ready to catch and hold any- thing above four feet in height, it is but reasonable to suppose that donkeys standing four feet high, with loads measuring across from bale to bale four feet, would come to grief. This grief was of frequent recurrence here, causing us to pause every few minutes for re- arrangements. So often had this task to be performed, that the men got perfectly discouraged, and had to be spoken to sharply before they set to work. By the time I reached Msuwa there was nobody with me and the ten donkeys I drove, but Mabruk the Little, who, though generally stolid, stood to his work like a man. Bombay and Uledi were far behind, with the most jaded donkeys. Shaw was in charge of the cart, and his experiences were most bitter, as he informed Apbil, 1871.] TEBOUQH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEOUHEA. lOS me he had expended a whole vocabulary of stormy abuse known to sailors, and a new one which be liad invented extempore. He did not arrive until two o'clock next morning, and was completely worn out. Truly I doubt if the most pious divine, in travelling through that long jungle under such circumstances, with such oft-recurring annoyances and Sisyphean labor, could have avoided cursing his folly for coming hither. How in this difficult march I regretted my former easy circumstances — the soft repose of my too easy chair in Madrid ! The man who first said that travelling was / a fool's paradise must certainly have been inspired by tlie experiences of a similar day to this. Another halt was fixed at Msuwa that we and our animals might recuperate. The chief of the village, a white man in everything but color, sent me and mine the fattest broad-tailed sheep of his flock, with five measures of matama grain. The mutton was excellent, unapproachable. For his timely and needful present I gave him two doti, and amused him with an exhibi- tion of the wonderful mechanism of the Winchester rifle, and my breechloading revolvers. He and his people were intelligent enough to com- prehend the utility of these weapons at an emergency, and illustrated in expressive pantomime the powers they possessed against numbers of people armed only with spears and bows, by extending their arms with an imaginary gun and describing a clear circle. " Verily," said they, " the Wasungu are far wiser than the Washensi. What heads they have! What wonderful things they make ! Look at their tents, their guns, their time-pieces, their clothes, and that little rolling thing (the cart) which carries more thaD five men, — que !" 104 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. On the 10th, recovered from the excessive strain of the last march, my caravan marched out of Msuwa, accompanied by the hospitable villagers as far as their stake defence, receiving their unanimous " quaharys." Outside the village the march promised to be less arduous than between Imbiki and Msuwa. After crossing a beautiful little plain intersected by a dry gully or mtoni, the route led by a few cultivated fields, where tlie tillers greeted us with one grand unwinking stare, as if fascinated. Soon after we met one of those sights common in this part of the world, to wit, a chained slave-gang, bound east. The slaves did not appear to be in any way down-hearted ; on the contrary, they seemed imbued with the philosophic jollity of the jolly servant of Martin Chuzzlewit. Were it not for their chains, it would have been difficult to discover master from slave ; the physiognomic traits were alike — the mild benignity with which we were regarded was equally visible on all faces. The chains were ponderous, they might have held elephants captive ; but as the slaves carried nothing but themselves, their weight could not have been insupportable. The jungle was scant on this march, and though in some places the packs met with accidents, they were not such as seriously to retard progress. By 10 a.m. we were in camp in the midst of an imposing view of green sward and forest domed by a cloudless sky. We had again pitched our camp in the wilderness, and, as is the custom of caravans, fired two shots to warn any Washensi having grain to sell, that we were willing to trade. Our next halting-place was Kisemo, distant but eleven miles from Msuwa, a village situated in a populous duh Apbil, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEOUHHA, 105 trict, having in its vicinity no less than five other villages, each fortified by stakes and thorny abattis, with as much fierce independence as if their petty lords were so many Percys and Douglases. Each topped a ridge, or a low hummock, with an assumption of defiance of the cock-on-its- own-dunghill type. Between these humble eminences and low ridges of land, wind narrow vales which are favored with the cultivation of matama and Indian corn. Behind the village flows the Unger- engeri River, an impetuous Tramontana during the Masika season, capable of overflowing its steep banks, but in the dry season it subsides into its proper status, which is that of a small stream of very clear sweet water. Its course from Kisemo is south-west, then easterly ; it is the main feeder of the Kingani River. The belles of Kisemo, of gigantic posterioral propor- tions, are noted for their vanity in brass wire, which is wound in spiral rings round their wrists and ancles, and the varieties of style which their hispid heads exhibit ; while their poor lords, obliged to be contented with dingy torn clouts and spUt ears, show what wide sway Asmodeus holds over this terrestrial sphere — for it must have been an unhappy time when the hard-besieged husbands finally gave way before their hotly-pressing spouses. Besides these brassy ornaments on their extremities, and the various hair-dressing styles, the women of Kisemo frequently wear lengthy necklaces which run in rivers of colors down their black bodies. But a more comical picture is seldom presented than that of one of these highly-dressed females with the magnificent development already noted, engaged in the homely and necessary task of grinding corn for herself and family. The grinding apparatus consists of two portions : one, a thick pole of hard wood about six feet 106 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE, long, answering for a pestle ; the other, a capacious wooden mortar, three feet in height. Swaying with the pestle as it rises and falls the pectoral and pos- terioral exuberances alternate to her strokes in the very WOMAN GRINDING CORN. drollest rhythm ; so strongly marked that I feared for the walls of the hut before which I saw the corn- pounding going on. While engaged in setting his tent, Shaw was obliged to move a small flat stone, to drive a peg into the ground. The village chief, who saw him do it, rushed up in a breathless fashion, and replaced the stone instantly, then stood on it in an impressive manner, indicative of the great importance attached to that stone and location. Bombay seeing Shaw standing in silent wonder at the act, volunteered to ask the chief what was the matter. The Sheikh solemnly answered, with a finger pointing downward^ " Uganga !" Where- iLPBiL, 1871.] TEROUOH UKWEBE, ETC., TO USEOUHHA. 107 upon I implored him to let me see what was under the stone. With a graciousness quite affecting he complied. My curiosity was gratified with the sight of a small whittled stick, which pinned fast to the ground an insect, the cause of a miscarriage to a young female of the village. During the afternoon, Uledi and Ferajji, who had been despatched after the truant Khamisi, returned with him and all the missing articles. Khamisi, soon after leaving the road and plunging into the jungle, where he was mentally triumphing in his booty, was met by some of the plundering Washensi, who are always on the qui vive for stragglers, and unceremoniously taken to their village in the woods, and bound to a tree preparatory to being killed. Khamisi said that he asked them why they tied him up, to which they answered, that they were about to kill him, because he was a Mgwana, whom they were accustomed to kill as soon as they were caught. But Uledi and Ferajji shortly after coming upon the scene, both well armed, put an end to the debates upon Khamisi's fate, by claiming him as an absconding pagazi from the Musungu's camp, as well as all the articles he possessed at the time of capture. The robbers did not dispute the claim for the pagazi, goats, tent, or any other valuable found with him, but intimated that they deserved a reward for apprehending him. The demand being considered just, a reward to the extent of two doti and a fundo or ten necklaces of beads was given. Khamisi, for his desertion and attempted robbery, could not be pardoned without first suffering punish- ment. He had asked at Bagamoyo, before enlisting in my service, an advance of $5 in money, and had received it; and a load of Bubu beads, no heavier 108 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. than a pagazi's load, had been given him to cany ; he bad, therefore, no excuse for desertion. Lest I should overstep prudence, however, in punishing him, I con- vened a court of eight pagazis and four soldiers to sit in Judgment, and asked them to give me their decision as to what should be done. Their unanimous verdict was that he was guilty of a crime almost unknown among the Wanyamwezi pagazis, and as it was likely to give bad repute to the Wanyamwezi carriers, they therefore sentenced him to be flogged with the " Great Master's " donkey whip. I then ordered him to be bound, and considering that by his act the pagazis had suffered in name, the soldiers, in the master's estimation, as efficient guards, Shaw in being reprimanded by me for not looking better after the stragglers, I ordered that each of the pagazis and soldiers and Shaw should punish him with one blow each, which was accordingly done, to poor Khamisi's crying sorrow. Before night arrived a small caravan of Wanguana, who brought with them a long letter from the kind- hearted American Consul at Zanzibar, as well as a file of late " Heralds," latest date of which was February 4. Among other gratifying intelligence found in them concerning the doings of Congress and the New York Legislature, and the revelations of startling crimes in America, was an account of President Grant's second levee, in which Jenkins described with laboured ver- bosity the toilets of the ladies who attended this notable reception ; how a lavender ostrich plume waved among the lovely grey curls of Mrs. ; how diamonds finished the magnificent toilet of Mrs. , that lady who presented such an imposmg appearance ; how Mrs. had an overskirt with ruchings of crimson satin ; how Mrs. radiated a blaze of light from Apbil, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC, TO USEGUHHA. 109 her diamonds, as she moved along in royal purple satin; and how the President, with the deep manlj voice and the pair of searching grey eyes, was sacri- ficing himself for the sovereign people on this occasion of his second levee ; and much else of the same adulatory tenor. Looking up from this refreshing reading, I beheld my tent door crowded with the dark-skinned bodies of Kisemo's daughters, who had become lost in vain en- deavours to penetrate the mystery of those long sheets of paper over which I had been bending so long. So sudden and vast was the contrast between what my friend Jenkins had been describing, and this most real sight visible to my naked eyes, that it required a strong effort of mind and memory to recall what siJch grandly-dressed ladies were like, to decide where lay the difference between a " blonde beauty with a mass of glittering, golden hair, with eyes which vied with the lustre of her diamonds," and one of these plump black girls of twelve or thirteen, ripening into womanhood, with a cock's-comb of woolly hair on the top of her head, with the redundant luxuriance behind veiled but by two yards of old sheeting, with 3 lbs. of brass wire ornament on each limb, and streams of beads round her neck ; one out of the many who were attending my levee in the natural glory and beauty of nakedness. But indeed and indeed there is a vast difference between my court and that of the President, which has such an able Jenkins for its reporter ! On the 12th the caravan reached Mussoudi, on the Ungerengeri river. Happily for our patient donkeys this march was free from all the annoying troubles of the jungle. Happily for ourselves also, for we had no more the care of the packs and the anxiety about no EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, arriving at camp before night. The packs once put firmly on the backs of our good donkeys, they marched into camp — the road being excellent — without a single displacement or cause for one impatient word. If the road to Unyanyembe were all like this I should consider it as comfortable as crossing over to Staten Island for a Sunday holiday, or riding in the horse- cars to Central Park. Take away the gravelled paths, the lakes and ponds, the museums within, the trellised arbors, the kiosk, the uniformed policemen and well- dressed visitors, — in short, all particulars and evidences of the presence of ripe civilization, and Central Park thus denuded, with only its refreshing lawns, gentle hollows, and grove-clad ridges, would present, to those who could imagine* the New York park in this state, a not unfaithful image of the country which opened before us soon after leaving Kisemo. This beautiful prospect, glorious in its wild nature, fragrant with its numerous flowers and variety of sweetly-smelling shrubs, among which I recognised the wild sage, the indigo plant, &c., terminated at the foot of Kira Peak and sister cones, which mark the boundaries between Udoe and Ukami, yet distant twenty miles. Those distant mountains formed a not unfit background to this magnificent picture of open plain, forest patches, and sloping lawns — there was enough of picturesque- ness and sublimity in the blue mountains to render it one complete whole. When drawing near the valley of Ungerengeri, granite knobs and protuberances of dazzling quartz showed their heads above the reddish soil. Descending the ridge where these rocks were prominent, we found ourselves in the sable loam deposit of the Ungerengeri, and in the midst of teeming fields of sugar-cane and Apbil, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEOUHHA. lU matama, Indian corn, muhogo, and gardens of curry, Qgg, and cucumber plants. On the banks of the Un- gerengeri flourished the banana, and overtopping it by seventy feet and more shot up the stately mparamusi, the rival in beauty of the Persian clienar and Abyssinian plane. Its trunk is straight and comely enough for the mainmast of a first-class frigate, while its ex- panding crown of leafage is distinguished from all others by its density and vivid greenness. There were a score of varieties of the larger kind of trees whose far-extending brandies embraced across the narrow but swift river. The depressions of the valley and the immediate neighbourhood of the river were choked with young forests of tiger-grass and stiff reeds. Mussoudi is situated on a higher elevation than the average level of the village, and consequently looks down upon its neighbours, which number a hundred and more. It is the western extremity of Ukwere. On the western bank of the Ungerengeri the territory of the Wakami commences. We had to halt one day at Mussoudi because the poverty of the people prevented us from procuring the needful amount of grain. The cause of this scantiness in such a fertile and populous valley was, that the numerous caravans which had preceded us had drawn heavily for their stores for the up-marches. On the 14th we crossed the Ungerengeri, which here flows southerly to the southern extremity of the valley, where it bends easterly as far as Kisemo. After crossing the river here, fordable at all times and only twenty yards in breadth, we had another mile of the valley with its excessivly moist soil and rank growth of grass. It then ascended into a higher elevation, and led through a forest of mparamusi, tamarind, tamarisk, acacia, and 112 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. the blooming mimosa. This ascent was continued foi two hours, when we stood upon the spine of the largest ridge, where we could obtain free views of the wooded plain below and the distant ridges of Kisemo which we Lad but lately left. A descent of a few hundred feet terminated in a deep but dry mtoni with a sandy bed, on the other side of which we had to regain the eleva- tion we had lost, and a similar country opened into view until we found a newly-made boma with well- built huts of grass near a pool of water, which we at once occupied as a halting-place for the night. The cart gave us considerable trouble; not even our strongest donkey, though it carried with ease on its back 196 lbs. could draw the cart with a load of only 225 lbs. weight Early on the morning of the 15 th we broke camp and started for Mikeseh. By 8.30 a.m. we were as- cending the southern face of the Kira Peak. When we had gained the height of two hundred feet above the level of the surrounding country, we were gratified \\ ith a magnificent view of a land whose soil knows no Sabbath, which, had Professor Malthus himself but seen, he had never penned that foolish pamphlet of his about legislating for the prevention of early marriages, and raved like " Adversity Hume " about over-crowded populations and certain ruin to England. If there are too many English-speaking people in any one place I have as much faith in them as the far-seeing editor of * Noctes Ambrosianse ' had in "Brother Jonathan," and know that their stout elbows will make room somewhere, let the weal or woe of those who withstand them light where it may. There are plenty of Hengists and Horsas, Capt. John Smiths, and Pilgrim Fathers among the Anglo-Saxon race yet, and when America is filled up with their descendants, who shall say that Africa. April, 1871.] THBOUGH UKWEBE, ETC, TO USEQUHHA, 113 and especially this glorious part of it, shall not he their next resting-place ? After travelling the spine of a ridge abutting against the southern slope of Kira we again descended into the little valley of Kiwrima, the first settlement v^e meet m Udoe, where there is always an abundant supply of water. Two miles west of Kiwrima is Mikiseh. On the 16th we reached Ulagalla after a few hours' march. Ulagalla is the name of a district, or a portion of a district, lying between the mountains of Uruguru which bound it southerly, and the mountains of Udoe lying northerly and parallel with them, and but ten miles apart. The principal part of the basin thus formed is called Ulagalla. Muhalleh is the next settlement, and here we found ourselves in the territory of the Waseguhha. On this march we were hemmed in by mountains — on our left by those of Uruguru, on our right by those of Udoe and Useguhha — a most agreeable and welcome change to us after the long miles of monotonous level we had hitherto seen. When tired of looking into the depths of the forest that still ran on either side of the road, we had but to look up to the mountain's base, to note its strange trees, its plants and vari-colored flowers, we had but to raise our heads to vary this pleasant occupation by observing the lengthy and sinuous spine of the mountains, and mentally report upon their out- line, their spurs, their projections and ravines, their bulging rocks and deep clefts, and, above all, the dark green woods clothing them from summit to base. And when our attention was not required for the mundane task of regarding the donkeys' packs, or the pace of the cautious-stepping pagazis, it was gratifying to watch the vapors play about the mountain summits — to see I 114 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE. them fold into fleecy crowns and fantastic clusters, dissolve, gather together into a pall that threatened rain, and sail away again before the brightening sun. At Muhalleh was the fourth caravan under Maganga with three more sick men, who turned with eager eyes to myself, " the dispenser of medicine," as I approached. Salvos of small arms greeted me, and a present of rice and ears of Indian corn for roasting were awaiting my acceptance ; but, as I told Maganga, I would have pre- ferred to hear that his party were eight or ten marches ahead. At this camp, also, we met Salim bin Rashid, bound eastward, with a huge caravan carrying three hundred ivory tusks. This good Arab, besides welcom- ing the new-comer with a present of rice, gave me news of Livingstone. He had met the old traveller at Ujiji, had lived in the next hut to him for two weeks, described him as looking old, with long grey mous- taches and beard, just recovered from severe illness, looking very wan ; when fully recovered Livingstone intended to visit a country called Manyema by way of Marungu. The valley of the Ungerengeri with Muhalleh exhibits wonderful fertility. Its crops of matama were of the tallest, and its Indian corn would rival the best crops ever seen in the Arkansas bottoms. The numerous mountain-fed streams rendered the great depth of loam very sloppy, in consequence of which several accidents occurred before we reached the camp, such as wetting cloth, mildewing tea, watering sugar, and rusting tools ; but prompt attention to these neces- sary things saved us from considerable loss. There was a slight difference noticed in the de- meanour and bearing of the Waseguhha compared with the Wadoe, Wakanji, and Wakwere heretofore seen Apbil, 1871.] THROUOH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEOUEHA. 116 There was none of that civility we had been until now pleased to note : their express desire to barter was accompanied with insolent hints that we ought to take their produce at their own prices. If we remonstrated they became angry; retorting fiercely, impatient of opposition, they flew into a passion, and were glib in threats. This strange conduct, so opposite to that of the calm and gentle Wakwere, may be excellently illustrated by comparing the manner of the hot-headed Greek with that of the cool and collected German. Necessity compelled us to purchase eatables of them, and, to the credit of the country and its productions be it said, their honey had the peculiar flavour of that of famed Hymettus. Following the latitudinal valley of the Ungerengeri, within two hours on the following morning we passed close under the wall of the capital of Useguhha — Sim- bamwenni. The first view of the walled town at the western foot of the Uruguru mountains, with its fine valley abundantly beautiful, watered by two rivers, and several pellucid streams of water distilled by the dew and cloud-enriched heights around, was one that we did not anticipate to meet in Eastern Africa. In Mazanderan, Persia, such a scene would have answered our expectations, but here it was totally unexpected. The town may contain a population of 3,000, having about 1,000 houses ; being so densely crowded perhaps 5,000 would more closely approximate. The houses in the town are eminently African, but of the best type of construction. The fortifications are on an Arabic -Persic model — combining Arab neatness with Persian plan. Through a ride of 9 50 miles in Persia I never met a town outside of the great cities better fortified than Simbam- wenni. In Persia the fortifications were of mud, even I 2 116 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, those of Kasvin, T3heran, Ispahan, and Shiraz ; those of Simbamwenni are of stone, pierced with two rows of loopholes for musketry. The area of the town is about half a square mile, its plan being quadrangular. Well- built towers of stone guard each corner ; four gates, one facing each cardinal point, and set half-way between the several towers, permit ingress and egress for its inhabi- tants. The gates are closed with solid square doors made of African teak, and carved with the infinitesimally fine and complicated devices of the Arabs, from which I suspect that ihe doors were made either at Zanzibar or on the coast, and conveyed to Simbamwenni plank by plank ; yet as there is much communication between Bagamoyo and Simbamwenni, it is just possible that native artisans are the authors of this ornate workman- ship, as several doors chiselled and carved in the same manner, though not quite so elaborately, were visible in the largest houses. The palace of the Sultan is after the style of those on the coast, with long sloping roof, wide eaves, and veranda in front. The Sultana is the eldest daughter of the famous Kisabengo, a name infamous throughout the neigh- bouring countries of Udoe, Ukami, Ukwere, Kingaru, Ukwenni, and Kiranga- Wanna, for his kidnapping pro- pensities. Kisabengo was another Theodore on a small scale. Sprung from humble ancestry, he acquired dis- tinction for his personal strength, his powers of harangue, and his amusing and versatile address, by which he gained great ascendency over fugitive slaves, and was chosen a leader among them. Fleeing from justice which awaited him at the hands of the Zanzibar Sultan, he arrived in Ukami, which extended at that time from Ukwere to Usagara, and here he commenced a career of conquest, the result of which was the cession by the April 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA, W Wakami of an immense tract of fertile country, in the valley of the Ungerengeri. On its most desirable site, with the river flowing close nnder the walls, he built his capital, and called it Simbamwenni, which means " The Lion," or the strongest city. In old age the successful robber and kidnapper changed his name of Kisabengo, which had gained such a notoriety, to Simbamwenni, after his town ; and wlien dying, after desiring that his eldest daughter should succeed him, he bestowed the name of the town upon her also, which name of Simbamwenni the Sultana now retains and is known by. While crossing a rapid stream, which, as I said before, flowed close to the walls, the inhabitants of Simbamwenni had a fine chance of gratifying their curiosity of seeing the '* Great Musungu," whose several caravans had preceded him, and who unpardonablj^, be- cause unlicensed, had spread a report of his great wealth and power. I was thus the object of a universal stare. At one time on the banks there were considerably over a thousand natives going through the several tenses and moods of the verb " to stare," or exhibiting every phase of the substantive, viz. — the stare peremptory, insolent, sly, cunning, modest, and casual. The warriors of the Sultana, holding in one hand the spear, the bow, and sheaf or musket, embraced with the other their respec- tive friends, like so many models of Nisus and Euryalus, Theseus and Pirithous, Damon and Phintias, or Achilles and Patroclus, to whom they confidentially related their divers opinions upon my dress and color. The words " Musungu kuba " had as much charm for these people as the music of the Pied Piper had for the rats of Hamelin, since they served to draw from within the walls across their stream so large a portion of 118 HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE, the population ; and when I continued the journe;^ to the Ungerengeri, distant four miles, I feared that the Hamelin catastrophe might have to be repeated before I could rid myself of them. But fortunately for my peace of mind, they finally proved vincible under the hot sun, and the distance we had to go to camp. As we were obliged to overhaul the luggage, and repair saddles, as well as to doctor a few of the animals, whose backs had by this time become very sore, I determined to halt here two days. Provisions were very plentiful also at Simbamwenni, though com- paratively dear. On opening the Makanda-bound luggage, we found it to be much better than we had anticipated, considering the series of thorough drenchings it had lately stood ; it being now the full height of the Masika season. But several valuable things, such as cases of ammunition and gun-boxes and tea, had suffered, all of which I ascribed to Shaw's thoughtlessness in driving the donkeys across gulleys breast deep with water, when common prudence could have told him to unload. In calling Shaw to my tent to exhibit to him tlie loss, my gentleman flew into a passion, and charged me with requiring from him too much work, with being too fastidious, and impossible to please, with much else of the same tenor, ending his stormy reply with stating his intention to quit my service, and to return by the first caravan we should meet. Responding, I informed him that, as he had proved himself inefficient and careless, loving his ease better than work, I would oppose no obstacle to his departure ; that he might depart that moment if he pleased, but must go without his personal baggage, which I should retain in lieu of the money advanced to him at Zanzibar. This perti- Apbil, 1871.] THROUGH UKWEBE, ETC, TO U8E0UHHA. 119 nent announcement of my intention restored Shaw to his proper equilibrium, which he had somewhat lost during bis wrathful mood ; and before many hours had elapsed he was purposely busy on my concerns, and peace was restored. On the second day I was, for the first time, made aware that my acclimatization in the ague-breeding swamps of Arkansas was powerless against the Mu- kunguru of East Africa. The premonitory symptoms of the African type were felt in my system at 10 a.m. First, general lassitude prevailed, with a disposition tc drowsiness ; secondly, came the spinal ache which, com- mencing from the loins, ascended the vertebrae, and extended around the ribs, until it reached the shoulders, where it settled into a weary pain ; thirdly, came a chil- liness over the whole body, which was quickly followed by a heavy head, swimming eyes, and throbbing temples, with vague vision, which distorted and transformed all objects of sight. This lasted until 10 p.m., and the Mukunguru left me, much prostrated in strength. The remedy, applied for three mornings in succession after the attack, was such as my experience in Arkansas had taught me was the most powerful corrective, viz., a quantum of fifteen grains of quinine, taken in three doses of five grains each, every other hour from dawn to meridian — the first dose to be taken immediately after the first effect of the purging medicine taken at bed-time the night previous. I may add that this treatment was perfectly successful in my case, and in all others which occurred in my camp. After the Mukunguru had declared itself, there was no fear, with such a treatment of it, of a second attack, until at least some days afterwards. On the third day the camp was visited by the ambaa- 120 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, sadors of Her Highness the Sultana of Simbamwenni, who came as her representatives to receive the tribute which she regards herself as powerful enough to enforce. But they, as well as Madame Simbamwenni^ were in- formed, that as we knew it was their custom to charge owners of caravans but one tribute, and as they remem- bered the Musungu (Farquhar) had paid already, it was not fair that I should have to pay again. The ambassadors replied with a " Ngema " (very well), and promised to carry my answer back to their mistress. Though it was by no means " very well in fact," as it will be seen in a subsequent chapter how the female Simbamwenni took advantage of an adverse fortune which befell me to pay herself. With this I close the chapter of incidents experienced during our transit across the maritime region. PORTRAIT OF SHAW AND FARQUHAR. CHAPTER y. TO ITGOGO. USEGUHHA. h. m. h. m. Qgerengeri Eiver to — Rehenneko to — Simbo . . . . . 2 Camp on mountain . 3 30 Camp in plain . 4 10 Kiora . . 3 40 Makata River . . . 2 30 Camp on river . 4 50 Madete . . 2 30 USAGARA. Lake Ugombo . 3 Camp west of Makata 5 Matamombo . 6 Camp in plain. 4 30 Mpwapwa . . 7 Camp , , . . 2 Kisokweh . . 2 Rehenneko 3 15 Chunyo , . . 1 30 The distance from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni we found to be 119 miles, and was accomplished in four- teen marches. But these marches, owing to difficulties arising from the Masika season, and more especially to the lagging of the fourth caravan under Maganga, extended to twenty-nine days, thus rendering our 122 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, progress very slow indeed — but a little more than fouf miles a-day. I infer, from what I have seen of the tra- velling, that had I not been encumbered by the sick Wanyamwezi porters, I could have accomplished the distance in sixteen days. For it was not the donkeys that proved recreant to my confidence ; they, poor animals, carrying a weight of 150 lbs. each, arrived at Simbam- wenni in first-rate order; but it was Maganga, com- posed of greed and laziness, and his weakly-bodied, syphi- litic tribe, who were ever falling sick. In dry weather the number of marches might have been much reduced. Of the half-dozen of Arabs or so who preceded this Expedition along this route, two accomplished the entire distance in eight days. Prom the brief descrip- tions given of the country, as it day by day expanded to our view, enough may be gleaned to give readers a fair idea of it. But, casting a retrospective glance away from Simbamwenni to distant Bagamoyo on the coast, I know of one state in our country that might be very well compared to this tract in fertility, in physical contour, in its forests and bits of level prairie inclosed by tall woods, in its cones, in its ridges and grand undulations, verdure-clad — and that is Missouri. The elevation of Simbamwenni cannot be much over 1,000 feet above the level, the rise of the land having been gradual. It being the rainy season, about which so many ominous statements were doled out to us by those ignorant of the character of the country, we naturally saw it under its worst aspect ; but, even in this adverse phase of it, with all its depth of black mud, its excessive dew, its dripping and chill grass, its density of rank jungle, and its crouching fevers, I look back upon the scene with pleasure, for the wealth and prosperity it promises to some civilized nation, which in some future Apbil, 1871.] TO VOOOO, 123 time will come and take possession of it. A railroad from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni might be constructed with as much ease and rapidity as, and at far less cost than the Union Pacific Railway, whose rapid strides day by day towards completion the world heard of and admired. A residence in this part ol Africa, after a thorough system of drainage had been carried out, would not be attended with any more discomfort than generally follows upon the occupation of new land. The temperature at this season during the day never exceeded 85** Fahrenheit. The nights were pleasant — too cold without a pair of blankets for covering ; and, as far as Simbamwenni, they were without that pest which is so dreadful on the Nebraska and Kansas prairies, the mosquito. The only annoyances I know of that would tell hard on the settler is the determined ferocity of the mabungu, or horse-fly, the chufwa, &c., already described, which, until the dense forests and jungles were cleared, would be certain to render the keeping of domestic cattle unremunerative. Contrary to expectation the Expedition was not able to start at the end of two days ; the third and the fourth days were passed miserably enough in the desponding valley of Ungerengeri. This river, small as it is in the dry seasons, becomes of considerable volume and power during the Masika, as we experienced to our sorrow. It serves as a drain to a score of peaks and two long ranges of mountains ; winding along their base, it is the recipient of the cascades seen flashing during the few intervals of sunlight, of all the nullahs and ravines which render the lengthy frontage of the mountain slopes so rugged and irregular, until it glides into the valley of Simbamwenni a formidable body of water, opposing a serious obstacle to caravans without means 124 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE, to build bridges; added to which was an incessant downfall of rain — such a rain as shuts people in-doora and renders them miserable and unamiable — a real London rain — an eternal drizzle accompanied with mist and fog. When the sun shone it appeared but a pale hnage of itself, and old pagazis, wise in their traditions as old whaling captains, shook their heads ominously at the dull spectre, and declared it was doubtful if the rain would cease for three weeks yet. The site of the caravan camp on the hither side of the Ungerengeri was a hot-bed of malaria, unpleasant to witness — an abomination to memory. The filth of generations ot pagazis had gathered innumerable hosts of creeping things. Armies of black, white, and red ants infest the stricken soil ; centipedes, like worms, of every hue, clamber over shrubs and plants ; hanging to the under- growth are the honey-combed nests of yellow-headed wasps with stings as harmful as . scorpions ; enormous beetles, as large as full-grown mice, roll dunghills over the ground ; of all sorts, shapes, sizes, and hues are the myriad-fold vermin with which the ground teems ; in short, the richest entomological collection could not vie in variety and numbers with the species which the four walls of my tent enclosed from morning until night. On the fifth morning, or the 23rd April, the rain gave us a few hours' respite, during which we managed to wade through the Stygian quagmire reeking with noisomeness to the inundated river-bank. The soldiers commenced at 5 a.m. to convey the baggage across from bank to bank over a bridge which was the most rustic of the rustic kind. Only an ignorant African would have been satisfied wiih its small utility as a means to cross a deep and rapid body of water. Even for light- footed Wanyamwezi pagazis it was anything but com- Aprii,1871.] to UOOOO. 125 for table to traverse. Only a professional tight-rope performer could have carried a load across with ease. To travel over an African bridge requires^ first, a long leap from land to the limb of a tree (which may or may not be covered by water), followed by a long jump ashore. With 70 lbs. weight on his back, the carrier finds it difficult enough. Sometimes he is assisted by ropes extemporized from the long convolvuli which hang from almost every tree, but not always, these being deemed superfluities by the Washensi. Fortunately the baggage was transferred without a single accident, and though the torrent was strong, the donkeys were dragged through the flood by vigorous efforts and much objurgation without a casualty. This performance of crossing the Ungerengeri occupied fully five hours, though energy, abuse, and fury enough were expended for an army. Eeloading and wringing our clothes dry, we set out from the horrible neighbourhood of the river, with its reek and filth, in a northerly direction, following a road which led up to easy and level ground. Two obtruding hills were thus avoided on our left, and after passing them we had shut out the view of the hateful valley. I always found myself more comfortable and light- hearted while travelling than when chafing and fretting in camp at delays which no effort could avoid, and consequently I fear that some things, while on a march, may be tinted somewhat stronger than their appearance or merit may properly warrant. But I thought that the view opening before us was much more agreeable than the valley of Simbamwenni with all its indescrib- able fertility. It was a series of glades opening one after another between forest clumps of young trees, hemmed in distantly by isolated peaks and scattered J 26 HOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE. mountains. Now and again, as we crested low emi- nences we caught sight of the blue Usagara mountains, bounding the horizon westerly and northerly, and looked down upon a vast expanse of plain which lay between. At the foot of the lengthy slope, well-watered by bubbling springs and mountain rills, we found a com- fortable khambi with well-made huts, which the natives call Simbo. It lies just two hours or five miles north- west of the Ungerengeri crossing. The ground is rocky, composed principally of quartzose detritus swept down by the constant streams. In the neighbourhood of these grow bamboo, the thickest of which was about two and a half inches in diameter ; the " myombo," a very shapely tree, with a clean trunk like an ash, the " imbite," with large, fleshy leaves like the " mtamba," sycamore, plum-tree, the " ugaza," or tamarisk^ and the " mgungu," a tree containing several wide branches with small leaves clustered together in a clump, and the silk-cotton tree. Though there are no villages or settlements in view of Simbo Khambi, there are several clustered within the mountain folds, inhabited by Waseguhha somewhat prone to dishonest acts and murder. On the morning of the 24th, as we were about to leave Simbo, an accident occurred which was the cause of much anxiety to me for many days. Bunder Salaam, a native of Malabar, employed as my cook, was caught for the fifth time pilfering the rations of my mess. His confederate and bosom-friend Abdul Kader, sub- cook, tailor, and supernumerary, and Selim the Arab boy, were the informers and witnesses, and, accord- ingly, after an impartial examination and forgive- ness for the fourth time, Shaw was ordered to administer to him one dozen lashes. The flogging was APBiL, 1871.] TO UQOOO. 121 given to him over his clothes, and consequently was not very severe, and but reasonably adequate to the offence ; but the severest measure was his expulsion from- camp, he and his donkey and kit, with the declaration that I would bear with no such incorrigible thief. I did not mean that he should be really driven away, and put at the mercy of every greedy Mshensi he should meet^ but I thought that a good scare would have a good effect in amending his evil propensities. But the cook took it in good earnest, and as soon as his hands were released he rushed out from camp towards the mountains without regarding hat, donkey, or pro- perty. Bombay and Abdul Kader used their lungs in vain to recall the fugitive. Bunder Salaam would not return, but, thinking that he might possibly do so, his donkey, with his property, was tied to a tree near the camp, while we proceeded on our march. The long broad plain visible from the eminences crossed between the Ungerengeri and Simbo was now before us, and became known to sorrowful memory sub- sequently, as the Makata Yalley. The initial march was from Simbo, its terminus at Rehenneko, at the base of the Usagara mountains, six marches distant. The valley commences with broad undulations, covered with young forests of bamboo, which grow thickly along the streams, the dwarf fan-palm, the stately Palmyra, and the mgungu. These undulations soon become broken by gulleys containing water, nourishing dense crops of cane reeds and broad-bladed glass, and, emerging from this district, wide savannahs covered with tall grass open into view, with an isolated tree here and there agree- ably breaking the monotony of the scene. The Makata is a wilderness containing but one village of the Waseguhha throughout its broad expanse. Yenison* 128 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE. consequently, abounds within the forest dumps, and the kudu, hartel eest, antelope, and zebra may be seen at early dawn emerging into the open savannahs to feed. At night, the cyn-hy