liiiAilliliiiiiiiiiiiliilii'liii 11 -lii m U 111 ill iililif 
 
 mmmimmmmir 
 
 
 :||il|iii:iiiilili1li» 
 iiili^iiilliiiiii^:^il:liij 
 
 !iil«?iM!^ 
 
 isKI liWRii 
 
Class _SJdialjL 
 Book_ 
 
 Copyright]^" 
 
 M^ 
 
 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2010 with funding from 
 The Library of Congress 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/uptodatetruckgroOOdavi 
 
Up-to-Date 
 
 Truck Growing 
 
 In the South 
 
 By J. R. DAVIS 
 
 Edited by 
 
 G. F. HUNNICUTT 
 
 THE CULTIVATOR PUBLISHING COMPANY 
 
 ATLANTA, GA. 
 
 1910 
 
d,^ 
 
 
 .:5i 
 
 Copyrighted, 1910 
 
 by 
 
 THE CULTIVATOR PUBLISHING CO. 
 
 THE CULTIVATOR PUBLISHING CO. 
 Publishers 
 
 THE SOUTHERN, Cultivator 
 
 "Ten Acres Enough" 
 
 "Agriculture for the Common Schools" 
 
 "Southern Crops " 
 
 "David Dickson's Farming " 
 
 BOX 798 ATLANTA, GA. 
 
 •C;GI.A2^y2G^ 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Preface 7 
 
 Introduction 9 
 
 Tomatoes 45 
 
 Eggplant 54 
 
 Sweet Peppers 60 
 
 Cabbage 62 
 
 Cucumbers 67 
 
 Squashes 71 
 
 Beans 73 
 
 Radishes 76 
 
 Beets 7.8 
 
 Onions 81 
 
 Cantaloupes 85 
 
 Cauliflower 87 
 
 Okra 89 
 
 Turnips 90 
 
 Pumpkins, Salsify, Parsley 91 
 
 Lettuce 92 
 
 Celery 96 
 
 Strawberries 103 
 
 Sweet Potatoes 110 
 
 Watermelons 114 
 
 Cowpeas 118 
 
 Irish Potatoes 121 
 
 Collards, Spinach 1-3 
 
 Fall Irish Potatoes 129 
 
 Winter Cabbage 134 
 
 How We Raised A Crop of Turnips 138 
 
 Watermelon Culture 141 
 
 Collards 149 
 
 Spinach 151 
 
 Onions in the South 154 
 
 Planting Table— Vegetables 170 
 
 Seed Table 171 
 
 Planting Table— Flowers 172 
 
 Monthly Calendar 173 
 
 Maturity of Garden Crops 175 
 
 Spraying Calendar 177 
 
 Formulas 184 
 
PUBLISHEES' PEEFACE. 
 
 We call attention to tlie fact that Mr. Davis is a quiet, 
 plain, straightforward writer. He makes no wonderful 
 claims as to profits of the truck business as much depends 
 on conditions. But if you are the man, and have the land, 
 here is the plan. 
 
 Mr. D'avis says that the knowledge portrayed in this 
 book would have saved him thousands of dollars, if he had 
 not had to acquire it by experience — that best but most 
 costly of teachers. Though there is nothing sensational 
 in these pages, a close study and careful practice of the 
 directions here given will save you the waste of mucii 
 time, energy and capital. Every fact portrayed to the 
 most minor detail, by Mr. Davis is based on and has been 
 substantiated by actual experience ; he has made no state- 
 ments from heresay, and has touched on no crops unless 
 he has growTi them with entire success. To make the work 
 more complete, "he has kindly allowed us to get a few arti- 
 cles from other sources, each of which is properly accred- 
 ited. 
 
 Intensive farming is bound to come into its owti, and 
 we feel confident that this work will be welcomed by the 
 many gardeners and. small farmers in the Gulf and South 
 Atlantic coast regions. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 In writing this book on "Southern Trucking," I desire 
 to say that I am doing so mainly at the request of a num- 
 ber of my friends who are engaged in the business, and 
 also Who are prospective growers. I am persuaded to do 
 so further, owing to the fact that there are no recent works' 
 on Southern gardening, and the trucking business has to 
 keep up with the times as well as other enterprises. The 
 writer does not wish to blow his own horn, but as there 
 is no one else to do it for him in the present instance he 
 begs pardon while he says' a word or two regarding his 
 fitness to do the work in hand. I have been engaged in 
 the trucking business in the South for a period extending 
 over twenty-five years, and have operated in three South- 
 em States, but mainly in Florida. However having vis- 
 ited nearly all the trucking sections of the South, and 
 many l^orth and West, besides having visited frequently 
 the principal markets of the United States and observed 
 the methods of disposing of garden produce, I certainly 
 feel that I can say something helpful to my brethren who 
 are engaged in the business whether professional or ama- 
 teur. But I am handling the s'ubject purely from 
 the standpoint of a practical and experienced trucker; sci- 
 entific questions and theories, I leave to those who are 
 better qualified to deal with them. However, I have tried 
 to keep pace with these, and as far as they have proven 
 to my satisfaction to be productive of good results, I have 
 given my experience. There are some subjects of inter- 
 
est to gardeners that I have not touched upon, not feeling 
 that my information on these is full enough to justify me 
 in handling them. But what I have said on the subject 
 I am confident will be helpful to every one engaged in the 
 business. The subject of agriculture is a broad one, and 
 we have hardly started on the road to new discoveries. 
 We are all beginners as it were and the swiftest line of 
 progress lies in the comparison of our personal experience. 
 
 J. R. Davis. 
 
INTEODUCTION. 
 
 BOIL. 
 
 There are almost as many different kinds of soils in tlie 
 South as there are varieties of vegetables grown. Some 
 soils are suited to certain crops, and entirely unsuited to 
 others. I shall endeavor to advise, as each crop is taken 
 up, what class of soil is best adapted to that particular 
 crop. In a general way, however, I will say while on 
 this subject, that for nearly all crops of vegetables it will 
 be found highly profitable to have a deep rich soil, well 
 supplied always with an abundance of vegetable matter. 
 I can not lay too much stress on the subject of soil fertil- 
 ity. The ground should be the farmer's bank, and he can 
 rest assured that no bank will pay him such interest on 
 judicious deposits. There is no truer saying than "Feed 
 the soil and it will feed you." It may be said of clay 
 soils that they should be broken deeply, and subsoiled; 
 and should be turned deeper each year, but care should 
 be taken not to turn deeply at first. In fact no soil, how- 
 ever sandy, should be turned deeply at first. The first 
 turning should not be over four inches, and the depth 
 might increase yearly by one inch, until a depth of six or 
 seven inches is reached. 
 
 SOIL RENOVATORS. 
 
 This is a subject of vital importance to every tiller of 
 the soil, for no matter what crop he grows, vegetable mat- 
 ter or humus must be supplied in all soils to maintain fer- 
 
Soil, Reistovatoes. 11 
 
 tility. This can be done most economically, from tnrn 
 ^ ing under one of tlie leguminous crops : such as peas, beans, 
 butterbeans, peanuts, clover, vetch. It should be borne in 
 mind, however, that in the South no crcop of vegetables' 
 should be plowed under until well matured— in fact turn- 
 ing should not be' commenced in any Southern State until 
 October 1st, unless the crop b© mowed dovwi and allowed to 
 lay for ten days. If this be done the turning may be 
 done sooner. Turning under green crops in hot weather 
 has proven to be detrimental to the soil. There is no 
 crop that improves 'land so much as velvet beans, but they 
 require a long growing season, and can hardly be recom- 
 mended for latitudes north of Middle Georgia. They 
 are valuable also for stock, as they produce large crops of 
 ■ beans, which are fine food for hogs and cattle. They can 
 not be turned under until about three weeks after being 
 killed by frost, when the vines begin to rot and get brit- 
 tle. A good sulky turning plow with large rolling coul- 
 ter is the implement to be used for turning velvet beans, 
 and the work is done more easily about nine o'clock in 
 the morning, after the dew has dried off of the vines, caus- 
 - ing them to lose their toughness. This precaution how- 
 ever, may not be necessary in stiff clay soil. Every crop, 
 whether field or garden, should be followed by one of the 
 soil renovators above named. These crops gather nitro- 
 gen from the atmosphere and store it in the soil, besides 
 improving the mechanical condition of the land. It may 
 be said further that, in addition to the plant food obtained 
 through their agency, it has been recently discovered by 
 the department of agriculture of the United States, that 
 cowpeas when following other crops have the power of 
 
12 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 neutralizing poisonous excreta, produced by tlie crop pre- 
 ceding them; and it may be possible that the other le- 
 guminous crops referred to, produce the same results. In 
 any case, we know from long experience and observation, 
 that the soil improving properties of these leguminous 
 crops is so marked that we can not afford to dispense with 
 them. If cowpeas are used for the purpose of soil reno- 
 vation, one should know whether the soil is infected 
 with root knot. If this minute insect is present in the 
 soil, the iron pea only should be planted, as' it is the only 
 variety that has proven immune to this insect. In fact 
 it is my preference of varieties anyway. It is a good 
 variety for hay, growing until frost, although it is a shy 
 bearer. 
 
 HAY. 
 
 As the trucker must have hay, it is proper that I should 
 say a few word's on this subject. ISTo better hay than pea- 
 vine hay can be made by the Southern farmer; but unless 
 it is first-class and the leaves retained, and free from 
 mould, it is not worth saving. In order to do this, it 
 must not be allowed to get wet after it has been cut and 
 wilted. I have tested nearly all methods I have ever 
 heard of, and the only one I have ever found to be purely 
 productive of a first-class article of peavine hay, is one of 
 my own origination, and while the cost of saving is more 
 than in ordinary methods, the quality of the product will 
 justify the additional expense. A shed of the following 
 dimensions will cure enough hay for four or five head of 
 horses, and if a smaller number is kept, the shed may be 
 reduced in size. Make an open shed 16x32 feet, using 
 
Hay. 13 
 
 five posts on each side; cut posts 15 feet long, and put 
 them in the ground four feet deep ; nail 2x6 planks across' 
 from post to post, beginning three feet from the top, and 
 leave a space of about three feet between joists. Then 
 put strips about 1^x1% lengthways, resting on the joists, 
 allowing a space of 12 inches between the strips. Cover 
 the shed so as to exclude rain, and leave the sides and the 
 ends open. After the vines have matured, cut them after 
 allowing the dew to dry, and allow them to lay in the field 
 five or six hours after cutting. Haul up and scatter on 
 racks, the same day cut, not allowing them to be wet with 
 rain or dew. They can be piled two and a half feet deep 
 on the racks, being careful to leave space of six inches 
 between racks, and not to pack the hay in putting it up. 
 This finishes the job, and in six days you have nice s'weet 
 hay, well cured, with the leaves on. Whether it rains 
 or not, after six days the hay can be baled or stored away 
 and the racks refilled. Other methods are good if you 
 have fair weather, but one hard rain will spoil the hay, 
 causing it to mould and the leaves to drop. Beggar weed 
 makes very fine, sweet hay, but must be cured without 
 rain ; and it should be mowed when about a foot high, in 
 order that suckers may put out, and to make the stems 
 more numerous and smaller. This hay, however, lies 
 very close, and can not be well cured by the plan just de- 
 scribed. 
 
 FEETILIZEES. 
 
 This is a subject well deserving the careful considera- 
 tion of every tiller of the soil, and more especially the 
 trucker, who requires a soil high in fertility, and capable 
 
14 Teuck Geowing in the South. 
 
 of producing large crops of first-class quality. Quality 
 as well as quantity depend, to a large extent, upon abund- 
 ance of plant food ever ready in the soil. In some sec- 
 tions commercial fertilizer has scarcely had an introduc- 
 tion to the gardeners, and stable manure is the only plant 
 food ever used. This is a great mistake. There is no 
 better manure than stable manure, so far as it goes, but 
 it is incomplete ration, and in all cases should be supple- 
 mented with potash and phosphoric acid. A limited 
 quantity of stable manure is advisable for any and all 
 soils, where the price is reasonable ; but it will hardly pay 
 to use in any quantity where the price is above two dol- 
 lars per two-horse load, delivered in the field. Its value 
 is based not only on its plant food contents, but aside from 
 this it has the power of improving the mechanical condi- 
 tion of the soil, and supplying nitrogen-producing bac- 
 teria. However it is not advisable to use it too liberally 
 on sandy soil, as it has a tendency to cause the land to dry 
 out, and renders it thirsty. Care should be taken to avoid 
 manure which contains seeds of plants which are objec- 
 tionable such as' weeds, crab grass, etc. Broadcasting is 
 advisable in applying stable manure, as it brings the ma- 
 nure more thoroughly into contact with the soil, and 
 causes less drying out of the lands. Commercial fertiliz- 
 ers are little understood by the farming public in general, 
 and they need to be better educated along this line. My 
 experience in the home-mixing of commercial fertilizers 
 has been highly satisfactory, and the best crops I have 
 ever grown have been produced with my own mixtures. 
 While I loiow that I am antagonizing the interests of fer- 
 tilizer manufactures by advocating home mixtures, I wish 
 
Fektilizeks. 15 
 
 to saj I am writing .this book in the interest of truck 
 growers and propose to give my experience and ideas on 
 this. Ready mixed goods are sold everywhere on time 
 and agricultural chemicals are strictly cash. The reason 
 for this should be obvious to every thinking mind. The 
 fact is, that on mixed goods the profit is large and on un-- 
 mixed it is small. Mixing can be done with a hoe for 
 fifty cents per ton and you know what you have when it is 
 mixed. Besides you are saving five to ten dollars per ton 
 by doing your own mixing. You are buying a pig in the 
 bag when you buy a ton of mixed fertilizer ; there is not 
 living the chemist who can tell you what you are buying. 
 The fertilizer manufacturer does not tell you what you are 
 buying ; he says "made from dried blood, tankage, nitrate 
 of soda, ground bone and sulphate of potash." He does 
 not say how much of each ingredient is used in the mix- 
 tures. It matters' not whether the home mixtures fit the 
 formula exactly and while it may not be quite so exact as 
 the machine mixed goods you will surely get the results 
 provided the ingredients are purchased of a reliable 
 dealer. Besides you have the privilege of having analysis 
 made free of charge in most States; every gardener should 
 avail himself of this privilege. In all mixture some or- 
 ganic matter should be used, be the quantity ever so 
 small: either blood, blood and bone, ground fish, cotton- 
 seed meal, or linseed-meal. This is for the purpose of 
 supplying to the soil micro-organisms, which will facili- 
 tate nitrification. The kind of organic material to be 
 used should depend upon the market value. Of the kinds 
 . named above, I prefer cottonSeed-meal. It must, how- 
 ever^ be borne in mind, that when the percentage of am- 
 
16 Teuok Growing in the South. 
 
 monia is largely from organic sources, the fertilizer must 
 be applied about two weeks in advance of planting or plant 
 setting; and then should be well stirred before planting is 
 done. If, however, the percentage of organic matter, is 
 small, say one or two per cent, of ammonia derived from 
 organic matter, fertilizer can be applied at the time of 
 planting, provided not more than 800 pounds per acre be 
 used, but it should be well stirred with the soil. Plants are 
 often killed or nearly so by injudicious fertilizing. In all 
 cases where plants or seeds are put in the furrow and fertil- 
 izing is done at planting time, a small ridge should be 
 thrown up, with a double shovel ; the fertilizer thrown upon 
 the ridge; and the ridge opened with a bull tongue. This 
 prevents the fertilizer from coming in direct contact with 
 the roots of plants or seeds, and enables them to start off 
 before being affected by the fertilizer. If the plants or 
 seeds are put upon a ridge, mix the fertilizer thoroughly 
 with the soil before planting. A good all-round fertilizer 
 should analyze about 5 per cent, ammonia, 6 per cent, 
 available phosphoric acid, and 5 per cent, potash. Some 
 crops require a little more potash. Potatoes should have 
 about 8 per cent, potash. In case of excessive rains, it is 
 advisable to use a little nitrate of soda scattered broadcast 
 over the ground. One to two hundred pounds per acre 
 will be suflScient for most crops. The additional use of ni- 
 trate of soda is advisable on crops requiring luxuriant 
 growth of foliage such as cabbage, lettuce, beets, celery, 
 etc., and should be applied at intervals of about ten days 
 or two weeks. It is unnecessary to plow in soda as the 
 dew will dissolve it, and nothing is lost by evaporation. 
 For all crops requiring more than 90 days to mature, two 
 
Feetii-izees. 17 
 
 or more applications of fertilizer should be made. This 
 is more important on sandy soils. 
 
 AMMONIA. 
 
 As sources of ammonia, I would advise the following 
 ingredients: Diried blood, blood and bone, cottonseed- 
 meal and ground fish as organic, and sulphate of ammonia 
 or nitrate of soda, as inorganic — one per cent, at least, of 
 nitrate of soda should be used in all mixtures to start the 
 plant. 
 
 POTASH. 
 
 While many use sulphate, at an additional cost of about 
 five dollars per ton, I have used muriate for the past fif- 
 teen years, and I am sure the results justify my action. 
 By using muriate there is a saving of about five dollars 
 per ton, and I believe for most crops it is to be preferred 
 to sulphate. Muriate does not make mealy -potatoes like 
 sulphate, but this difference rarely ever makes any differ- 
 ence in the market value of the product. Muriate has 
 a tendency to sweetness, and sulphate to acidity, in some 
 fruits and vegetables. 
 
 KAINIT. 
 
 Some recommend kainit as a source of potash. From 
 an economical standpoint I would not recommend it, but 
 it may, have some merit as a preventer of rust in some 
 crops. In this case it might be advisable. 
 
18 Truck Growing in the South, 
 
 rORMULA. 
 
 The following is a good all-round formula for truck 
 crops generally: 
 
 800 lbs. cottonseed-meal, 8 per cent, ammonia. 
 200 lbs. nitrate of soda, 18 per cent, ammonia. 
 800 lbs. acid phosphate, 14 per cent, available phos- 
 phoric acid. 
 200 lbs. muriate of potash, 50 per cent, actual potash. 
 
 2,000 
 
 This gives 2,000 pounds, analyzing 5 per cent, ammo- 
 nia, 5 3-10 per cent, available phosphoric acid, and 5 per 
 cent, actual potash. If the mixture is wanted to use at 
 planting time, ' the quantity of cottonseed-meal should be 
 cut down, so as not to exceed 2 per cent, ammonia derived 
 from that source, and the supplement of nitrate of sodn 
 increased to make about 5 per cent, of the total mixture. 
 In case cottonseed-meal should be too high to justify its 
 use, other organic materials should be used. It should be 
 borne in mind that no commercial mixtures will have the 
 full effect, unless the soil is kept well supplied with humus 
 as heretofore directed. An excessive quantity of am- 
 monia should never be used on tomatoes and eggplant, as 
 it causes a rank vine growth and shedding of fruit. Its 
 detrimental effect is marked more on these crops than 
 others. 
 
 MIXING. 
 
 If mixing is to be done by hand, the different ingre- 
 dients should be spread upon a smooth floor, taking care 
 
Febtilizees. 19 
 
 to have tlie layers of eacli uniform, and as near the same 
 thickness as possible. Then take a wide hoe and, com- 
 mence on one side of the pile and mix thoroughly. Then 
 rake up the whole mass into a sharp pile. Turn the pile 
 from one side until the whole has been turned, and then 
 turn back in the opposite direction. Three' turnings' will 
 suffice, and the cost will be about fifty cents per ton. Of 
 course the mixing can not be done as accurately by hand 
 as by machinery, but it is good enough for all practical 
 purposes. If the grower should prefer having it mixed 
 by machinery, he can give his formula and have his fer- 
 tilizer dealer do so at a nominal cost. Some growers 
 make their formulas and stipulate what materials are to 
 be used in their manufacture, and have the dealers put 
 them up for a specified sum. This plan is good if you 
 are dealing with a reliable house. You can also purchase 
 hand or power mixers at a low cost, or make one still 
 cheaper. 
 
 ROTATIOl^. 
 
 In order to produce good crops where the land is used 
 continually, rotation of crops is of the utmost importance. 
 One crop should 'Uot be followed by another of the same 
 kind under any circumstances. Even where a summer 
 crop of legumes, weeds, grass, or clover follow any crop 
 of vegetables, it is better to let the succeeding crop of veg- 
 etables be different from the kind last planted, and as 
 much different in character as possible. For instance a 
 root crop should not follow a root crop nor a vine crop 
 follow vine crop. Extended experience and observation 
 
Showing System of "Double Cropping" — Note Young Plant 
 Rows Between Laeqee Ones. 
 
KOTATION. 21 
 
 kave demonstrated this. One important reason for rota- 
 tion is to avoid disease. All plants are subject to some 
 disease or diseases, and a continued planting of the same 
 crop on the land causes the disease to increase, often rend- 
 ering it impossible to grow that particular crop at all. 
 This is especially true of tomatoes. Continued growing of 
 tomatoes on the same land causes the land to become in- 
 fested with blight, which it requires years to eradicate 
 from the soil. 
 
 The prevention of disease is one of the most important 
 features of successful gardening, and the best and surest 
 way of preventing it is by judicious rotation. The old 
 adage, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure," 
 never finds a more appropriate place than here. I have 
 little faith in growing vegetables successfully where the 
 soil is infested with disease. It is sometimes advisable 
 to spray for diseases, but the safest way of obviating them 
 is to never let them get a hold on the land, and this can be 
 best accomplished by proper crop rotation. 
 
 ROOT KNOT. 
 
 H... ■■- -r '•'■ ■■ ■ ■ "-.^"■^.^■^1^ 
 
 There is a minute insect, visible only through the mi- 
 croscope, which causes enlargement of roots of many 
 crops; and where the soil is badly infested with it, it is 
 very destructive to many vegetables. Some plants are en- 
 tirely immune, others partially, while a great many suc- 
 cumb to it. It is a great pest, and once present in the 
 soil it is very difficult to eradicate. I know of no prac- 
 tical way of dealing with it, except to starve it, and by 
 planting for a number of years crops' that are immune. 
 
22 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 Machines that are used in France which pnmp bisulphide 
 of carbon through the soil, but this method of eradication 
 is necessarily very expensive, and hardly worth consider- 
 ing. Here the ounce of prevention attains its highest value. 
 Perhaps the most universal means of distributing this 
 great pest is through the agency of plants from seed beds' 
 which are infested. Plants coming from an infested 
 seed bed should never, be used, or preferably no ground 
 that contains the smallest quantity of root knot should 
 be used for seed beds. 'New gTOund should always be 
 used, but if it is adjacent to infested fields, care should be 
 taken that the new ground contains no weeds, as this in- 
 sect will go from old fields to weeds that grow on virgin 
 soil. Therefore before planting your seed bed, examine 
 the weeds, if any are growing, and see that you have no 
 root knot. Very few garden vegetables are immune to 
 this insect, some however have gTeat power of resistance, 
 but never produce maximum crops where it is present. 
 Sweet peppers and carrots are the only vegetables that I 
 know to be entirely immune. Cabbage, cauliflower, let- 
 tuce, squash, eggplant, tomatoes, and beets have gTeat 
 power of resistance, and will produce good crops where 
 the land is infested very badly, provided they are kept in 
 a thrifty condition. Okra, cukes, cantaloupes and water- 
 melons can scarcely be grown at all on infested land. 
 
 PLANT DISEASES. 
 
 Plant disease is nearly always caused by continuous 
 cropping or unfavorable conditions. The gardener 
 should always aim to exercise judicious rotation, keep the 
 
Plant Diseases; 23 
 
 soil well stirred, and avoid deep planting on wet lands or 
 in cold weather. TKe lack of air in the soil and excessive 
 moisture often bring on disease. Low lands should be 
 well drained, and if they are ever liable to become soggy 
 from excessive rains they should be tiled. Crops that are 
 to be grown in winter or early spring should be planted 
 on a slight ridge, and the surface of the ground should be 
 frequently stirred. This lets in the air and sunshine to 
 the roots of the plants and causes a healthy growth. It 
 goes' a long way toward warding off disease. Any check 
 in the growth of a plant, no matter from what cause, in- 
 vites disease, and furthermore renders the plant less capa- 
 ble of resistance. Plants should never be transplanted 
 before a healthy growth is shown by the leaves. Plants 
 that are stunted and have not begun a vigorous growth will 
 show disease after being transplanted, where healthy 
 plants would not. I have used nearly all the standard 
 fungicides which are recommended for various plant dis- 
 eases, and I must say that results rarely ever justify their 
 use. In lieu of fungicides I would prescribe the harrow, 
 drainage, irrigation, and nitrate of soda, as the best rem- 
 edy for plant diseases in general. If disease is caused 
 from continuous growth of a crop on one piece of land, I 
 would advise a discontinuation of that crop until disease 
 has disappeared. Certain diseases are peculiar to certain 
 crops, and will not effect others, except in rare instances. 
 For instance I have grown 1,000 crates per acre of egg- 
 plant when it would not have produced ten crates per acre 
 of tomatoes, although these plants belong to the same 
 family. This land was badly infested with bacterial to 
 mato blight and would not grow tomatoes. 
 
24 Tkuok Growing in the South. 
 
 INSECTS. 
 
 The amount of damages done bj insects to the crops of 
 the United States is something alarming, and the trucker 
 comes in for his share of the damages rendered by the 
 bug. There should be concert of action by truckers of 
 the same community, with a view to reducing the number 
 of injurious insects which would go far toward reducing 
 to a minimum the ravages done to garden crops. By co- 
 operation of the gardeners of the same community, there 
 are many kinds of injurious insects that could be almost 
 annihilated. The preservation of insect enemies, such as 
 insectivorous birds, lizards, toads, wasps, etc., would go far 
 toward solving the insect problem. However there are 
 methods by which loss by insects may be reduced if per- 
 sistently followed. Of all the insects which the gardener 
 has to deal with perhaps the most destructive is the cut- 
 worm. There are a number of diiferent species of this 
 worm, but their habits are practically the same, and all 
 can be destroyed by the same methods. In warm climates 
 such as Florida and the Southern portion of the Gulf 
 States, this worm never hibernates, but is active all winter. 
 This continuous increased activity of the worm calls for in- 
 creased activity on the part of the trucker. In order to deal 
 intelligently with this worm, some knowledge of its habits 
 is necessary. The butterfly deposits the egg only where 
 there is some green crop growing at the time of laying. 
 In about a week the egg hatches and the worm starts out 
 on his destructive career. He cuts down the plants and 
 lives on the fat of the land until he is full grown. Then 
 he puts on his overcoat and remains inactive for a while. 
 
Insects. 25 
 
 After a short while he emerges a full fledged butterfly 
 again and sallies forth in search of pastures green and re- 
 member he never stops until he finds them. A knowledge 
 of this habit is valuable to every trucker. If his land is 
 broken and free from vegetation for three or four weeks 
 before planting, he need have no fear of cut worms in lati- 
 tudes where they do not hibernate, because that space of 
 time allows the larvae to become grown, they enter the 
 pupa state, then the butterfly, and go away in search of 
 crops. However as it is not always practicable to get 
 the land free of vegetation for the length of time required, 
 other preventive or destructive measures are necessary. 
 It is well to know what crops attract this worm, and the 
 ones that do not. You will never find the worm on land 
 where there grows a crop upon which they do not feed. 
 The method of cleaning the ground before planting is 
 therefore unnecessary in such cases. Most vegetables are 
 inviting to worms with the following exceptions however, 
 snap beans, squashes, carrots, turnips, ruta bagas. They 
 are especially fond of beets and English peas. Summer 
 crops of cowpeas afford inviting pastures for w>rm?, but 
 velvet beans, beggar weeds, corn, oats and sweet potatoes 
 do not attract them. If it is not practicable to keep the 
 land clean for several weeks before planting, where worms 
 are liable to be plentiful, it is well to make two applica- 
 tions, broadcast, about a week apart, of the following 
 mixture: One bushel wheat bran, two pounds paris 
 green, one quart molasses mixed in enough water to wet 
 the bran so as it will be thoroughly wet. Mix thoroughly 
 and scatter one-half bushel per acre and repeat in about 
 a week. If, however, you find, after setting your plants 
 
26 Tkuck Growing in the South. 
 
 that the worms are present in large nnmbers, go over im- 
 mediately after setting, late in the afternoon, and drop 
 by each plant a small lump of the mixture about the size 
 of a pea. If the worms are not numerous enough to jus- 
 tify in doing this, but only a few hills cut down, before 
 replanting drop a little of the mixture by each plant cut 
 down, and replant the next day. One application will 
 generally get all the worms which are hatched, but as 
 others may be hatching it is well to repeat the dose in 
 about a week. Frequently when there are no cutworms 
 at planting time, the crop planted attracts the butterfly, 
 and you have plenty of worms in a few weeks after set- 
 ting. They are often destructive to fruit, especially to- 
 matoes and eggplant. It is advisable in such cases, to go 
 over the field about when the plants begin to set fruit, and 
 drop a little of the mixture by each plant. Use the pois- 
 oned bran liberally, and you will get back five to ten dol- 
 lars for every dollar spent. 
 
 Aphids are another pest causing great loss, to vine 
 crops particularly. They appear on the under side of the 
 leaf and suck the vitality out of the plant. They have a 
 special liking for eggplant, and are most active during 
 dry, cool weather. Usually they disappear after a i&w 
 hard rains, and when the nights begin to grow warm. 
 This class of insects can be handled only by mixtures 
 which suffocate them by stopping the pores in their bodies 
 through which they breathe. Rosin wash is perhaps the 
 best, being cheap and harmless to plants. It will be nec- 
 essary to apply the wash with a nozzle and elbow in or- 
 der to reach the insect. The proper time to make the ap- 
 plication is when the aphids first appear. If the work is 
 
Insects. 2Y 
 
 thorough, thej may be stamped out with a minimum of 
 spraying. They increase with marvelous rapidity, and 
 unless they are checked at the outset destructive measures 
 will be found very costly. 
 
 Practically all leaf eating insects can be handled satis- 
 factorily with paris green. The best method of applying 
 is with a blow-gun. Use the pure paris green, putting it 
 on while the plants are wet with dew, or just after a rain. 
 The paris green should be put on just heavy enough to be 
 able to detect it when it comes out of the blow-gun. Some 
 plants' have foliage so tender that green can not be 
 used. Snap beans and butterbeans will require arsenate 
 of lead used as a spray, as this preparation is less caustic 
 than paris green. However most garden vegetables are 
 sufficiently resistant to the caustic effects of the paris 
 green to admit of its use without injury to the foliage. 
 
 For worms boring into the tomato, thorough hand pick- 
 ing is the only practical remedy. These worms usually 
 begin their work as soon as the fruit begins to set. The 
 butterfly deposits the egg on the surface of the tomato, 
 and as soon as the egg hatches the larva bores into the to- 
 mato, placing itself beyond the reach of poison. The 
 field should be gone over carefully once a week for several 
 weeks, and every tomato picked off that shows a worm 
 hole. This fruit should be buried deeply in the ground 
 and covered up. While the picking of wormy tomatoes 
 is being done every scarred tomato should be taken off 
 also, and you will find that you will have a crop of beau- 
 tiful fine smooth fruit with very few culls. This method 
 of hand-picking will be found profitable especially in to- 
 mato fields that are pruned and staked. 
 
28 Teuck Growing in the South. ■ 
 
 Grasshoppers sometimes do considerable damage, espe- 
 cially in early fall crops. The mixture recommended 
 for cutworms is destructive to grasshoppers as well as 
 worms, and in using it in the fall two birds may be killed 
 with one stone. Grasshoppers are rarely ever trouble- 
 some in early spring. 
 
 SEEDS. 
 
 In dealing with this subject quality should be the only 
 question considered. Buy your seeds only from houses 
 that are known to be reliable beyond question. Poor 
 seeds will often entail a loss amounting to a hundred 
 sometimes' a thousand times the value of the seed even if 
 they show good vitality. Perhaps the safest and most 
 economical rule is to get in touch with reliable growers 
 and buy direct from the grower. Communities can bunch 
 their orders and get their seeds at wholesale by this plan. 
 In buying potatoes, it is advisable, if possible, to have the 
 seed fields inspected, and get seeds free from blight. This 
 disease has been carried over the entire South through 
 the agency of infected seed and no doubt the yields are ma- 
 terially reduced on account of its prevelance. Most seeds 
 are just as good grown in the South as Northern grown, 
 and better for certain plants. The following seeds are 
 recommended to be gro^\Ti in the South: Watermelons, 
 cucumbers, okra, sweet peppers, eggplant, and squash. 
 However it is well to get ISTorthern grown seed every few 
 years, with which to grow your seed stock. For fall crops 
 of potatoes, the small Southern grown seed matured in 
 early summer is recommended, and the potato should be 
 
A Hot House Pays fob' Itself in a Few Years on the Truck 
 
 Farm. 
 
30 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 planted whole. Potatoes should be dug and dried out for 
 several months before planting, to insure prompt germi- 
 nation. It is well to test seeds before planting, especially 
 if you have any doubt of their vitality. Some seeds re- 
 quire a high temperature to germinate — ^such are peppers 
 and eggplant. Most seeds however will germinate at a 
 temperature of 80 degrees. A good and convenient way 
 of testing seeds, is to take a few bushels of stable manure 
 and dampen it, and put your seeds' in a wet cloth and 
 place in the centre of the manure heap. If the seeds are 
 good they will sprout in a few days. Another way is to 
 plant shallow in a small box containing soil, and cover 
 over with a pane of window glass and place in the sun- 
 shine. By this plan you can germinate most seeds any- 
 time in winter, when the temperature does not fall below 
 35 degrees at night. 
 
 SEED BEDS. 
 
 For Florida and the lower part of the Gulf States, hot 
 beds strictly speaking, are rarely necessary. For section.? 
 further north, however, artificial heat is required. In 
 preparing hot beds' I will say that there are better authori- 
 ties on the subject, but for the amateur the following in- 
 structions will be found useful. If sash are to be used, 
 the bed should be as wide as the sash is long, and made 
 as near air-tight as possible and built sloping toward the 
 South. The northern sides being of inch boards about 18 
 inches in height and ten inches for the south side. Take 
 out about three inches of the top soil, place it on one side 
 of the bed, then dig out six inches deeper, placing this soil 
 
Seed Beds. 31 
 
 on the nortli side of tlie bed and banking it up against 
 the boards, after the latter are placed in position. Put iu 
 the bottom of the bed six inches of fresh stable manure 
 and wet it thoroughly, tramping it down after wetting. 
 In about a week fork this over, wetting again. Then 
 place on this manure about three inches of surface soil, 
 pack and rake off smoothly. Then sow the seed and 
 keep the soil sufficiently moist to insure germination. If 
 covered with sash, the bed should be watched, and the 
 temperature never allowed to go above 85 degrees. A 
 thermometer should be kept inside, and the sash raised 
 when the temperature goes above 80. Sash are quite ex- 
 pensive, and may be dispensed with in most localities, by 
 using a heavy domestic. Where cloth is used instead of 
 "sash, the bed should be eight feet wide and ten-inch 
 boards north and south may be used, taking care to have 
 the plank fit tight. Rake up the soil and bank it for six 
 inches on the plank so as to exclude cold. Sew the domes- 
 tics three widths together, in length from 80 to 100 feet. 
 Then soak it in boiled linseed oil, wring it as dry as possi- 
 ble, and let it lay in the sun till dry. The bed should 
 have pieces about two by two running across at intervals 
 of eight feet nailed to each side, but coming one inch be- 
 low the top of the boards. Then drive a stake under- 
 neath each cross piece about center of bed. Then lay 
 small strips lengthwise the bed about two or three feet 
 apart. Drive a six-penny nail every two feet into the top 
 of each side, slanting, outward. These nails are for the 
 purpose of hooking on the sheet. The sheet can then be 
 rolled on a round pole about ten feet long, and when 
 wanted for a cover, roll out on the bed and hooked on. If 
 
Seed Beds. 33 
 
 this oiled sheet is kept on, it will produce almost as much 
 heat as glass. The same precaution against high temper- 
 ature should be used as in the case of sash. It is well to 
 have a lot of grass or hay handy, and in case of severe 
 cold, this' should be piled on the sheet to the depth of 
 twelve inches. By this method, I have saved the tender- 
 est plants at a temperature of 17 degrees, and I believe 
 it would save them as low as 14. Eemember all plants 
 need all the sunshine possible, and should be uncovered 
 every two days and let them have sun. The ground 
 should be frequently stirred also, in order to admit the air 
 to the roots. The ground should be kept sufficiently moist 
 to insure healthy growth, but in case of peppers and egg- 
 plant, should be kept as dry as possible consistent with 
 steady growth. These directions apply to the growing of 
 tender plants and are not necessary in growing such plants 
 as lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, etc. In growing these tht 
 cloth may be used without oil, and a smaller quantity of 
 stable manure used. In many sections this class of 
 plants can be grown in the open, however with some risk 
 of being killed. ISTo plant while in this seed bed should 
 be stimulated into rapid growth. You should endeavor 
 to maintain a steady, healthy growth and keep the soil 
 well stirred to insure an abundant root growth. If the 
 plants should cease growing and become stunted, a light 
 application of nitrate of soda and a little watering will 
 put them in shape. In selecting the seed bed, care should 
 be taken to destroy cutworms before planting, and it 
 should not be planted on any land that has been planted 
 in the same vegetables' for several years previous. ISTew 
 soil is preferable. 
 
34 Truck Growing in the South, 
 
 TRAISrSPLANTING. 
 
 In all sections of the South, transplanting of tomatoes 
 and eggplant into cold frames is advisable. It not only 
 enables one to get in the crop earlier, but insures the 
 plant against dying, and nearly always enables the grower 
 to produce a better crop. It is not so important that sweet 
 peppers be transplanted, as they produce a heavy root 
 even where they are grown thick in the bed, but to insure 
 good roots slow growth and well aerated soil are required. 
 The distance given plants in transplanting depends upon 
 the length of time plants are to remain in the bed, and 
 whether they are to be taken up without loosing the dirt 
 from their roots. In the latter case 5x5 is a good dis- 
 tance, and care should be taken to have all sticks and trash 
 out of the transplanting bed, in order that the plants may 
 be taken out in squares' of dirt with a sharp butcher's 
 knife. This method of transplanting, however, is quite 
 expensive, except on a small scale. For field work I 
 would give the following directions. Prepare your trans- 
 planting bed the same as for the seed bed, except leave 
 out stable manure. Use about 1,000 pounds per acre of 
 good vegetable fertilizer, using no organic matter. Fer- 
 tilize broadcast and stir in well with cultivator, allowing 
 the bed to remain ten days before transplanting, then open 
 a furrow with a sharp pointed tool the entire length of 
 the bed. Have furrows seven inches apart. Open one 
 furrow, place plant roots in bottom of furrows two inches 
 apart, and put in just enough dirt to cover the roots. Then 
 pour in enough water to soak the roots well, covering them 
 with wet dirt. Then fill the furrow and open another 
 
. Tkansplanting. 35 
 
 and so on until the bed is finished. Care should be taken 
 to use plenty of water. Then cover the bed with the sheet 
 and allow it to remain for three days ; after three days, 
 allow sunshine at least every other day. One watering 
 will do for tomatoes, but eggplant should be watered every 
 two days for a week after setting. Remember never to 
 transplant or set a plant in the field until the ground is 
 warm. ITever set when a cold spell is coming. You should 
 keep in touch with the weather man. 'No plant will root at 
 a low temperature, and if a cold spell should come on im- 
 mediately after setting your plant will suffer because they 
 are unable to take root. In the case of eggplant and pep- 
 pers, at the transplanting, commencing a week aftorv>^a.rd, 
 take a long, sharp tool and keep the ground between the 
 •rows opened as deep as or deeper than the roots of the 
 plants. This is not necessary with tomatoes. However 
 the soil should be kept well stirred. When the plants are 
 ready to go in the field, they may be taken up with a 
 prong hoe in order to save all the roots' possible. Other 
 than tomatoes and eggplant it is hardly advisable to trans- 
 plfiut in the bed. 
 
 SEED SOWING. 
 
 In sowing seed, to insure a stand, three things are re- 
 quired: Vitality of seed, proper temperature, and suffi- 
 cient moisture. As before stated some seed require a 
 higher temperature to germinate than others. You can 
 plant deeper when the ground is warm than when cold, 
 therefore no standard depth of planting can be given. 
 When the ground is at a normal temperature, planting 
 
36 Truck Gkowing in the South. 
 
 should be about one-sixtb of an inch for cabbage and sim- 
 imilar seeds which sprout quickly. For larger seeds such 
 as beans, about one inch. Beets however should be plant- 
 ed about two inches, and unless the ground is quite moist 
 soak for twenty-four hours in warm water. Firming the 
 soil after planting is' important in all cases, unless irriga- 
 tion is used in which case it is unnecessary. Firming the 
 soil is for the purpose of retaining moisture until the seed 
 sprouts and is all important. 
 
 Weeds are a curse to the trucker and precautionary 
 measures should be taken to prevent their appearance in 
 the garden. If any should appear they should be de- 
 stroyed before their seeds mature. Polk weeds carry root 
 knot, and other weeds harbor diseases, besides they are all 
 destructive to growing crops, and ruin the hay crop which 
 follows vegetables. Their presence in the garden is usu- 
 ally attributable to the use of stable manure, and their 
 presence in stable manure is caused by the use of hay con- 
 taining weed seeds'. Therefore it is important that weeds 
 be eliminated from the hay fields thereby nipping the evil 
 in the bud. 
 
 BERMUDA GRASS. 
 
 While this is a very fine pasture grass in the South, 
 and especially in the lower South, it is perhaps the great- 
 est pest that ever appeared in the garden. Great care 
 should be taken to have no seeds or roots of this' grass in 
 the stable manure, as like weeds, its presence in the field 
 is nearly always chargeable to the use of manure contain- 
 ing grass seeds. When it is discovered that a few sprigs 
 
Bermuda Geass. 37 
 
 of this grass have obtained a foothold in the garden, it 
 should be taken up, carefully getting every root. If the 
 field once becomes vp^ell set with it, the process of hand- 
 digging becomes too expensive. Heavy shading in the 
 summer has a tendency to reduce it, and nearly destroys 
 it sometimes, but like the cat it has nine lives and will re- 
 appear next spring. I have discovered a way of entirely 
 eradicating it at three plowings in dry weather. If your 
 land is set with Bermuda never turn it with a turning 
 plow until the grass has been destroyed. The best time 
 to destroy it is in dry, warm weather. Take a common 
 two-horse potato digger, with a shovel and fingers. (This 
 costs about nine dollars.) Let it go deep, and run fur- 
 rows about two feet apart, so as to uproot all the grass at 
 first plowing. The fingers of the digger bring the grass 
 to the top of the ground. In five days go over again, run- 
 ning 214 feet, so as t3 leave the field in ridges. Eeturn 
 again in five days and burst out these ridges, and if you 
 have no rain during the plowing, and ground remains dry, 
 you will have entirely destroyed the grass, if your field is 
 free from stumps and roots, so that the plow can be kept in 
 the ground. If you have roots and stumps hand-digging 
 will have to be resorted to, to remove it from around 
 stumps and roots. It is presumed that the averaged gar- 
 dener will realize the economy of taking out all stumps 
 and roots from the land to be used for trucking purposes. 
 
 ]^UT GEASS. 
 
 This is another pest, and when once is harder to de- 
 stroy than Bermuda. This is due to the fact that it pro- 
 duces nuts which when matured can not be destroyed by 
 
38 Tkuck Growing in the South. 
 
 plowing. When it first appears be careful to remove 
 every root and shoot underneath the ground, and take out 
 all the nuts and burn or destroy them. If the land once 
 becomes well set there is only one practical way of deal- 
 ing with it, and that is to turn in a lot of hogs. They 
 will in the course of a few months root out and destroy 
 practically all the nuts. They should not be fed during 
 the while, but allowed to hustle for their living. It is 
 preferable to allow the porkers to work in winter, as sum- 
 mer rooting and exposure is; very injurious to the soil. 
 
 lEEIGATION. 
 
 This is a subject that is now commanding the attention 
 of intelligent gardeners everywhere. Even in Florida 
 where the annual rainfall is over 50 inches, it is the best 
 investment that a trucker can make, and every trucker 
 who is able is putting in irrigation. On an average, the 
 assurance of abundance of water when wanted about 
 doubles the yield of vegetable crops and guarantees vege- 
 tables of first quality. The matter of quality is one of 
 much importance. For instance, the writer, a few years 
 ago, had under irrigation a patch of beans, which he sold 
 right along for five dollars a bushel, while non-irrigated 
 stock were bringing about one dollar and fifty cents. Be- 
 sides the yield from the irrigated patch was perhaps four 
 times as much per acre as the non-irrigated. The former 
 during the dryest weather were crisp and tender, while 
 the latter were too tough to be marketable. Abundance of 
 water frequently hasten the crop to maturity by several 
 weeks, and consequently the product realizes a much bet- 
 
StTBFACE IrEIGATIO??'. 
 
40 Teuok Growing in the South. 
 
 ter price. There are three systems of irrigation used in 
 gardening: First, running the water along^the rows ou 
 the surface; second, sub-irrigation, which consists of car- 
 rying the water underneath the surface in porous tile; 
 third, spraying the water over the surface by the use of 
 pipe nozzles and pumps driven by steam or gasoline en- 
 gines. While either system is far better than no irriga- 
 tion, the first is to be recommended only to parties who 
 are not able to install better systems. In using the first 
 a uniform fall of three inches to the 100 feet, is required, 
 and a thorough wetting once a week should be made, and 
 light harrowing should be done within a few days after 
 watering. The second system has proven to be very sat- 
 isfactory on land that is low, and requires draining, and 
 where cheap artesian wells can be had, as no power is re- 
 quired to distribute the water, and the tile acts as drains 
 during the wet weather. On all soils where cheap arte- 
 sian flowing wells can not be had, or which do not require 
 draining surface, irrigation or spraying is in all cases to 
 be recommended. Of all the systems, the Skinner system 
 made by the Skinner Irrigation Co., is by far the best. In 
 fact I do not see where any material improvement can be 
 made on this system. It consists of lines of small pipe, set 
 upon posts overhead, fifty feet apart, with small brass noz- 
 zles, every four feet, in each line of pipe. The water is 
 forced out through these small nozzles in the shape of fine 
 spray, and never packs the ground. These lines of pipe can 
 be turned at any angle, and by an ingenious turning device 
 every pipe on a twenty-acre plant can be turned by 
 simply moving a lever. By the use of a gasoline engine, 
 a twenty-acre plant can be watered thoroughly and uni- 
 
Ieeigation. 41 
 
 formly, at a cost of one hour of labor in addition to fuel 
 cost. The writer now has twenty-nine acres of this sys- 
 tem in operation, and has been putting in more of it each 
 year. On each plot that has been installed, the first crop 
 has paid more than twice the cost of the entire plant, in- 
 cluding pipe, nozzles, fittings, installed complete, well, 
 pump, engine, and piping for $200.00 per acre. When 
 no well has to be dug this cost can be reduced. Its ad- 
 vantages are first, economy of construction, from the fact 
 that a small quantity of water is carried through the noz- 
 zles, and in consequence small pipe can be used; second, 
 the light mist-like spray falls like a light rain, and does 
 not pack the ground, making it unnecessary to cultivate 
 after each watering. Third, uniformity of distribution 
 'of water. ]^o other system of spray approaches it in this 
 respect. Fourth, the protection against frost, aft'orded by 
 wetting the ground just before frost, causing the closing 
 of the soil pores, and the cessation of variation which pro- 
 duces frost. Fifth, economy of application of water. The 
 gardener can with this system apply the water while he 
 sits down after supper and reads his daily paper. (A visit 
 to his engine about once per hour is all that is necessary.) 
 Sixth, spraying for insects or disease can be done most 
 economically and effectually by this method, and would 
 require only twenty minutes to spray a twenty-acre field. 
 In saying what I have about this system, I do not wish 
 to be understood in all cases as placing it above the excel- 
 lent system of sub-irrigation already mentioned. This is 
 the system to be preferred in a low soil, and where cheap 
 artesian wells can be had, and is being used with excellent 
 results in many localities. 
 
PACKING AND MAEKETING. 
 
 A few general remarks will not be out of place on tliis 
 subject. Every grower should bave bis private brand, 
 and if bis goods are bonestly sorted and packed it will pay 
 bim. Tbe writer bas bad many carloads of vegetables 
 sold before tbey reach the market because his brand was 
 known and buyers have confidence in his goods. All 
 kinds of vegetables should be graded, and the fancy goods 
 should be packed in the best possible manner, putting in 
 gTade goods should never be packed under this brand. 
 After the vegetables are graded, the fancies particularly 
 should be packed in the best popular manner, putting iu 
 enough to fill the crate so that it will appear full on ar- 
 rival at destination. Further it should be made as at- 
 tractive as possible, as appearance goes a long way in sell 
 ing. If possible communities should get together and 
 ship in car lots. Much is saved in freight, and the goods 
 always arrive in better condition. The crates should ])e 
 put in cars and nailed down with slats, allowing air 
 spaces between each row of crates. The following vege- 
 tables require refrigeration : lettuce, beets, snap beans, 
 English peas, celery, carrots, cauliflower, cantaloupes, and 
 ripe tomatoes'. Ventilated cars may be used for the fol- 
 lowing, if the weather is not too warm: cabbage, pota- 
 toes, squash, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, but 
 if weather is very warm, all of these will require ice ex 
 cept, perhaps, eggplant, green tomatoes and potatoes. 
 
Tomatoes. 45 
 
 TOMATOES. 
 
 To the market gardner this is the most important truck 
 crop grown in the South, and in all probabilities the most 
 profitable when judiciously grown and packed and mar- 
 keted. The writer has more knowledge of, and expe- 
 rience with, this particular crop perhaps than any oth'>r. 
 Twenty years ago this crop was grown to a very small ex- 
 tent in the South and scarcely at all for shipment. Now 
 thousands of carloads are annually grown in the South 
 for Northern use. The shipping season in extreme 
 southern Florida begins in December and continues stead- 
 ily all through winter. As the spring advances Southern 
 shipments cease and the shipping time advances north- 
 ward, until about July the fifth, when Jersey stock sup- 
 plies the big Eastern markets. 
 
 Vauieties. 
 
 As shipping varieties only are to be considered in this 
 work, I will name the following to be recommended for 
 general truck growing: Paragon, Livingston's, Stone, 
 Redfield Beauty, Globe. The Globe is a new variety that 
 is giving excellent results, and is proving a favorite every- 
 where. For land that is effected with blight, Duke of 
 York is the only variety to be recommended, in fact so 
 far it is the only variety that has proven resistant to 
 blight. For an extra early tomato where pruning is 
 
46 Teuck Growing in the South. 
 
 adopted, the old Acme is by far the best variety. It sur- 
 passes them all in earliness and vigor, and the fmit com- 
 mands a better price than any other variety. It is often 
 quoted in the market from 25 cents to 50 cents above 
 other varieties. It is a heavy fruiter, but in order to 
 make fair-sized fruit, it must be pruned and topped when 
 there are five bunches of fruit set. 
 
 Al>DITIONAIi ON THE SuBJBCT OF ToMATOES. 
 
 Since this subject was disposed of there has come to 
 light a new and valuable variety of tomato. In fact its 
 virtues and superiority over other varieties are so loudly 
 and Imanimously acclaimed I feel that I should say some- 
 thing of my recent experience with and knowledge of it. 
 This new tomato is the Globe. It was introduced several 
 years ago and has been thoroughly tested' all over Florida, 
 and the writer being a grower of tomato plants for sale is 
 in a position to know just what the trucking public thinks 
 of it. Besides I have seen it grown and have gTown a 
 crop since this subject was closed. It is an early tomato, 
 and a heavy early fruiter, setting nearly all the first 
 fruits. I have frequently counted as many as six fruit 
 ■on one bunch. It is well shaped and good size. But its 
 chief merit is its hardiness. It is said by many to be 
 blight resistant. Some say not but it is certainly the 
 .-hardiest tomato now known with the exception possibly of 
 ;-tiie,Puke of York. Combining as it does the features of 
 -hardiness and being early an(l prolific,- I would unhesita^t- 
 4ngly recommend it in preference to all other varieties for 
 Florida and it should be tested everywhere. 
 
■M. 
 
 A Two-Pound "Gkeatee Baltimore" Tomato. 
 
48 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 Setting. 
 As this crop will not stand a temperature lower than 
 33 under ordinary conditions, the beds must be protected 
 from early frost. As the question of earliness is impor- 
 tant with tomatoes, in many cases it is advisable to trans- 
 plant four inches apart and hold the plants in the trans- 
 planted bed imtil twelve inches high. The plants should 
 be taken up with a pronged hoe, in order to get all the soil 
 possible with the roots. If the ground is not low, a fur- 
 row should be opened with four-inch scooter, the ground 
 being previously fertilized. Holes four inches deep 
 should be punched behind the plow, large enough to admit 
 the roots of the plants, the plowman walking outside the 
 furrow. A boy comes behind the plow, places the plants 
 in bottom of holes, and a hand comes behind and pours 
 about one-third of a pint of water on the edge of the hole, 
 washing the soil over the roots. If stiff clay soil is 
 planted, water should be poured in and the dirt pressed 
 back with the heel. This pressing is, however, un- 
 necessary in sandy soil. This method of setting is the 
 best and cheapest known to the writer, after having tried 
 them all. However if the ground is thoroughly wet, and 
 plants are well rooted, they may be dropped in the fur- 
 row and one inch of soil pulled over the root, and the 
 sole of the shoe pressed hard directly on the root. This 
 method can be followed only after a good season, and the 
 writer never recommends setting tender plants after a 
 rain. Early in the spring (owing to the fact that cold 
 snaps generally follow rain at that season) your plants 
 should be set in warm weather, when the ground is warm, 
 and they will take root immediately. 
 
Tomatoes. 49 
 
 Distance in Setting. 
 
 For general field culture, where vines are not pruned 
 they should be set in rows five feet apart and 30 inches in 
 the row; if plants are pruned and topped, four and one- 
 half foot rows and 18 inch in drill is the proper distance. 
 
 Pruning. 
 
 While this method of growing tomatoes may seem ex 
 pensive to the novice, the writer has found it profitable 
 where there is an assurance of a good crop. The process 
 is as follows: After the plants have begun to grow and 
 suckers are one or two inches long, go over once a week, 
 rubbing off all suckers, except the one immediately below 
 the first fruit stem, to grow until five bunches of fruit 
 have been set on both branches. Then top both the 
 branch and the main stalk, allowing no more fruit to be 
 set. This checking the growth of the plant will cause 
 the leaves and the stems to grow abnormally large, and 
 throw an unusual amount of nutriment into the fruit, 
 causing it to grow rapidly and become very solid and firm. 
 After topping the field should be gone over two or three 
 times and all sucker growth kept down, and the fruit 
 should be examined carefully while small and all cracked 
 or deformed fruit pulled off. This with a fair season 
 will insure a crop of tomatoes running eighty to ninety 
 per cent, fancy, and the stock will be firm and solid, com- 
 manding the highest price. I would in all cases recom- 
 mend staking in addition to pruning. Three foot stakes 
 should be driven in four inches of the plant, and the plant 
 tied to the stake with a soft twine. In tying care should 
 
50 Truck Geowing in the South. 
 
 be used to avoid getting a buncli of fruit between the 
 string and the stake. Unless this is done you will have 
 deformed fruit. The staking prevents sunburn, keeps 
 off cut worms, and allows continual cultivation until ship- 
 ments are half done, which is' advisable; but the cultiva- 
 tion should be shallow. The actual yield of tomatoes 
 when pruned and staked does not exceed the crop other- 
 wise grown, but the difference is that when pruned and 
 staked the gardener gets practically all his crop, and 
 where otherwise grov^n the sun and worms usually get 
 half. Besides the pruned and staked crop yields SO to 90 
 per cent, fancies, and otherwise only about 50 per cent, 
 fancies. 
 
 Packiis^g. 
 
 The fruit should be picked when fully matured, before 
 any color is shown, using lined baskets. Of course some 
 tomatoes will show color, and some will be nearly full 
 ripe. The bins for packing should be lined with old 
 sacks. Padding of excelsior or moss is good. Field 
 boxes should be provided, • and these also padded. The 
 fruit should be picked over once in three days. Carry 
 to the packing house in field . boxes. A sorting table 
 should be provided, and four half -bush el picking baskets 
 placed in front of the sorter. In one put red tomatoes, 
 in the second slightly colored stock, jDutting in these two 
 grades fancy and choice together. In third basket put 
 smooth green tomatoes, not less than two and one-half 
 inches in diameter. In the fourth put green smooth toma- 
 toes two to two and one-half inches in diameter, and those 
 which are slightly scarred. Throw away all bad and leaky 
 
. 
 
 :. ..-s**--^ 
 
 m 
 
 ^ 
 
 ti -k 
 
 ^S^Hi 
 
 ^ • .-"V-^ 
 
 
 ::!•>> 
 
52 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 stock. Now you have four grades. Have four partitions 
 in your packing bin — one for each grade, the size of the 
 partitions being made to suit the probable quantity of 
 each grade. Now you are ready for packing. The six 
 basket carrier is used principally in the South and all 
 fruit wrapped. In Texas and Mississippi and a few 
 other points the four-basket flat carrier is used without 
 wrapping. Taking for granted that the six-basket car- 
 rier is used, proceed to the packing. The full ripe and 
 colored stock can be assorted in two grades as packed. 
 As there are only a few of these gTades, they can be 
 marked fancy and choice as they are marked up. The 
 green stock should be packed very tightly, and the fruit 
 should come one-half inch above the top of the basket, 
 usually turning both layers on edge — ^unless fruit is large. 
 In this case the largest fruit should be placed flat in bot- 
 tom of basket. This is the most popular size and makes 
 the prettier pack. The writer has found that it is better 
 to designate by a particular brand instead of marking them 
 fancy and choice. The ripe tomatoes can be used in 
 nearby markets by express, and the colored stock marked 
 ripe and shipped in ventilated cars with the green stock. 
 When the car reaches market the colored stock will be in 
 about right condition to use at once, and may be distin- 
 guished from the green stock by being branded ripe. 
 There is a universal and growing demand for tomatoes, 
 and it is not likely that fancy Southern stock will ever 
 go begging. 
 
 Diseases. 
 
 There are several kinds of fungous diseases that attack 
 the tomatoes and also a bacterial blight which is worst of 
 
Tomatoes. 53 
 
 all. The former are u&nially caused by unfavorable con- 
 ditions and can usually be controlled by remedying those 
 conditions, but the bacterial blight when once established 
 on a piece of ground is beyond remedy, and the only thing 
 to be done is to cease planting tomatoes on that particular 
 piece of ground for a number of years. Care should be 
 taken never to have a seed bed on or adjoining a field in- 
 fected with blight or other disease. 
 
54 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 EGGPLANT. 
 
 Ill the whole category of vegetables there is perhaps 
 no plant so difficult to grow as the eggplant. Sometimes 
 nnder favorable conditions the amateur may think it is 
 an easy crop grown, but it is a very peculiar plant, and 
 when conditions are unfavorable is very difficult to grow. 
 The writer has grown and made a study of this plant for 
 twenty years', and has undertaken to grow it on all classes 
 of soil. Sometimes he has made a failure, but in rare in- 
 stances only. The present year the writer has shipped 
 40 carloads of as fine fruit as could be produced. It is 
 strictly a warm weather plant, and flourishes when the 
 midday temperature reaches 90 and even 100. Cold 
 weather and cold ground are dangerous conditions; and 
 unless a thorough notice of the plant is had, these con- 
 ditions will often prove fatal or nearly so to the seed bed, 
 in all latitudes. In extreme southern Florida it is neces- 
 sary to grow the plants in a hot bed in order to have large 
 well rooted plants for early setting. By all means these 
 plants should be transplanted, and kept in a protected bed 
 until twelve inches high. This gives them a large root 
 system, and the plant will grow off well under conditions 
 that would prove fatal to the non-transplanted plants. 
 In latitudes as far north as Middle Georgia, a good hot 
 bed should be used for sowing the seed. Use six inches of 
 stable manure and three or four inches of sandy soil on 
 top. Doanestic treated with linseed oil may be used for 
 covermg, but if planted further north sash would be 
 
EcraPLANT. 55 
 
 safer, as it requires a high temperature to sprout the 
 seeds. A warm spell should be selected for sowing, and 
 the seed will germinate in three or four days 
 if not too cold. After the plants are up, where cov- 
 ers are used, the bed should be uncovered about four 
 hours each day and allowed to have sunshine during warm 
 weather. However the teiuperature should not be al- 
 lowed to go above 80 or 90. During cold weather it is 
 better to keep the bed covered tightly. This retains the 
 heat of both stable manure and sun. JSTever allow the bed 
 to be uncovered at night ; keep the ground well stirred and 
 never water until the gTound is dry enough to wilt the 
 plants. A dry atmosphere and soil is conducive to 
 healthy growth. Keep up the slow, steady growth, but 
 do not stimulate to a rapid growth. Disease is the great 
 enemy to be contended with, and if this can be kept off, 
 and your plants kept healthy until set in the field, more 
 than half of the battle is won. In transplanting, the 
 plants should be set in rows as previously advised, and the 
 dirt pulled up around the plants halfway the stalk; and 
 the soil between rows kept well loosened and stirred, so as 
 to allow sun and air to roots. This is very important and 
 good plants can be grown by no other method. If cut- 
 worms appear, which is quite jorobable, scatter poisoned 
 bran broadcast over the bed. 
 
 Soil. 
 
 In all cases a sandy loam is to be recommended for this 
 crop. Lowlands and heavy clay soil should never be used. 
 Light hammocks are the soils adopted to this crop. 'No 
 plant that I know of will stand dry weather as well as 
 
56 Teuok Geo wing in the South. 
 
 the eggplant. If land is plentiful and no irrigation is 
 used, plant 6x3. Lay off rows six feet apart, check three 
 feet; open the six-feet rows with eight-inch shovel, and 
 scatter in the furrow one thousand pounds per acre of the 
 formula previously given. Cover with double shovel. 
 Do this two weeks before setting. When ready to set, run 
 in this fertilizer with a bull tongue, and throw up a ridge 
 with double shovel. If ground is sufficiently moist, 
 punch a hole at each three feet check, and put in the 
 plant half the length of the stalk, pouring in a half pint 
 of water to each plant, and washing the dirt around the 
 roots, nearly filling the hole. If ground is' too dry to 
 punch the hole, make a small hole with pointed hoe and 
 pour in half pint of water, and set the plant with fingers 
 before the water has soaked in. No packing is necessary, 
 as the water settles the dirt around the roots sufficiently. 
 
 Fkost Protection. 
 
 In all latitudes early setting and protection against 
 frost is advisable for this crop, as it is a continuous bearer, 
 and two weeks added to the shipping season will nearly 
 always double the value of the crop. The writer has 
 used various kinds of covers and would prefer the tomato 
 basket used with the six-basket tomato carrier. This cov- 
 ering has saved plants at a temperature of 24, and can be 
 allowed to remain for seven days, and the baskets can be 
 used for shipping tomatoes or peppers later in the season. 
 During the past season large size butter trays', which were 
 tight, were used alongside the tomato basket, and the 
 plants covered by the trays suffered far worse than those 
 covered by tomato baskets. 
 
Eggplant. 5Y 
 
 Vaeieties. 
 
 Only two varieties of eggplant are to be recommended. 
 The writer uses' Burpee's Black Beauty altogether, but in 
 some other sections the Florida High Bush is used, many 
 preferring this variety to the Black Beauty, and claiming 
 it to be a better shipper. In order to grow eggplant suc- 
 cessfully the first thing to do is to provide yourself with 
 healthy, well rooted, large, plants; second, have suitable 
 soil, well fertilized, before setting; third, careful setting, 
 using plenty of water in dry weather. If your plants un- 
 der such circumstances start off well and show purple 
 bud, you may feel assured of a good crop barring killing 
 frost. If your plants stand for several weeks and shows 
 no growth dig it up and plant something else, for this is 
 a peculiar crop and never recovers from a severe backset, 
 unless it has taken good roots and has shown a vigorous' 
 growth prior to the back set. In this case they generally 
 recover and make good crops. 
 
 DiSEiASES. 
 
 On soil adapted to the crop eggplant rarely show dis- 
 ease of any kind, but for this crop as well as others the 
 preventive is described. 
 
 Insects. 
 
 Aside from cutworms there are few insects affecting 
 this. Occasionally caterpillars attack the leaves', and cut- 
 worms eat the fruit. The remedies for these have already 
 been given. During dry weather the aphis frequently at- 
 
58 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 tacks this crop. Rosin sprays are to be recommended for 
 this insect. Apply thoroughly on the under side of the 
 leaves with a vermoreal nozzle and elbow. Anyone can 
 get the formulas for all kinds of insect sprays by writing 
 the Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. 
 
 Picking and Packing. 
 
 In gathering and packing the crop, lined baskets' and 
 boxes should be used, as recommended for tomatoes. A 
 bin also lined and padded, consisting of a table fourteen 
 feet long, three feet high, three feet wide, should be pro- 
 vided. The fruit is clipped one-half inch from the stem 
 junction with the fruit. Bushel baskets with bails are 
 used. The fruit is cut when it is large enough to pacl^ 
 30 to the crate. D'o not cut smaller, unless it is getting 
 too old, which is evidenced by a wine color in the Black 
 Beauty. On young, vigorous vines a 30-size is not full 
 grovra. by any means, but this is the best size, and they 
 should be taken off when that size is' reached. As the 
 vines grow older and more heavily fruited, they will of 
 course have to be cut smaller. The fruit should never 
 be cut while wet with dew or rain. The packing bin 
 should be divided by three partitions and the brusher 
 should set his field box just opposite the middle partition. 
 A frame made to hold an empty crate is made at each 
 end of the bin, and the top of the crate should come about 
 six inches above the top of the bin. The half-barrel crate 
 should be used 12 inches by 14 inches by 22 inches. The 
 brusher then provides himself with a large feather dust- 
 ing brush, and brushes the sand from the plant as he as- 
 sorts them. All nice smooth plants running 36 and 
 
Eggplant. 59 
 
 larger are placed in the division at each end of bin, and 
 smaller sizes and defective plants in the middle division. 
 This grade can be packed separately and shipped out as 
 culls, or thrown away late in the season when it does not 
 pay to ship such fruit. 
 
 The fancy stock is sized as packed, and the number of 
 plants marked on each box. These will run in size from 
 18 to 36. Some markets prefer the 36 size, but usually 
 30 is the best size. ITew 0*rleans prefers 36 to any other 
 size, and Pittsburg takes the larger sizes. In wrapping, 
 white paper 15 by 20 is to be recommended. It must be 
 borne in mind by those that grow eggplant for market, 
 that while there is a growing demand for this vegetable, 
 the demand is still very limited, and there are only a few 
 markets in the ITnited States that will take a car of egg- 
 plant. Two cars per week will supply Chicago, while 
 they will easily take fifty cars of tomatoes or 100 cars of 
 potatoes. 
 
60 Truck Gkowing in the South. 
 
 SWEET PEPPERS. 
 
 This is a crop that is now grown for market to a consid- 
 erable extent, and generally pays, but like eggplant there 
 is a very limited demand for it. It is not near so diffi- 
 cult to grow however as eggplant, and can be grown on 
 most soils that are not too low. The general rule laid 
 down for growing plants of the eggplant, will apply to 
 peppers, except transplanting is; not necessary, as where 
 growth is not too rapid, this plant makes a large root with- 
 out transplanting. They require a high temperature to 
 germinate, and are nearly as sensitive to cold as eggplant. 
 
 Varieties. 
 
 The Ruby King is the only variety to be recommended. 
 Other varieties supposed to be improvements have been 
 put out, but all found wanting. Stick to the Ruby King 
 until you have found something better. 
 
 Planting. 
 
 This crop, without irrigation, should be set five and one- 
 half by two feet, with irrigation four by one and a half. 
 (As they bear heavily while the plants are quite small 
 they should be planted closer than eggplant.) Irrigation 
 proves very profitable for this crop. The same rule for 
 fertilizing and setting recommended for eggplant will ap- 
 
Sweet Peppers. 61 
 
 ply to pepper, except no checking is' to be advised. If 
 tlie seed bed is kept bealtbj, the crop is easily grown, and 
 yields' four to six hundred crates per acre. Like eggplant 
 it is a continuous bearer, and shipments may continue 
 until the market is over. The fruit is packed in six bas- 
 ket tomato carrier, while the price is one fifty per crate 
 and upward. When the price falls below $1.50 for six- 
 basket carriers, the half-barrel eggplant crate is recom- 
 mended. 
 
62 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 CABBAGE. 
 
 This is a crop that often proves a money-maker for the 
 South, but frequently proves unprofitable. The most im- 
 portant information that can be had on this crop is when 
 to grow and when not to grow cabbage. This information 
 is particularly valuable to the extreme Southern truckers, 
 whose crops are due on the market in January, February 
 and March. The quantity and quality of the Northern 
 storage crop is almost always responsible for the price of 
 cabbage during the months named, and they often affect 
 the prices far into April, in seasons when they keep well. 
 To the growers located in the lower Gulf States whose 
 crops are to be marketed in the months above named, I 
 would say: If the !N"orthern storage crop is normal, 
 let cabbage alone, or plant very lightly so as not to com'^ 
 in before March 10th. If there is a market shortage in 
 the storage crop, and F. 0. B. prices are sixteen dollars 
 per ton and upward about November 1st, plant heavy in 
 cabbage to come in in February and March. Sometimes 
 however, it will pay to plant a crop to come in the last 
 of March and early in April, even when there is a normal 
 crop of storage goods, but this condition exists only when 
 there have been killing frost in the lower South and the 
 new crop cut short. However it is' impossible to foresee 
 this condition, and those who plant in protected localities 
 will have to take chances on the weather. It is a mis- 
 taken idea that cabbage are immune to frost in the lower 
 South. The writer has seen crops of cabbage practically 
 
The Jersey Wakefield — the Favorite Eahlt. 
 
 Eaely Summeb — Best Medium Cabbage. 
 
64 Tetjck Growing in the South. 
 
 ruined by cold in the latitude of Tampa, Florida. Of 
 course this occurs only once in a while. Under normal 
 conditions, cabbage will stand a low temperature, but if 
 growing rapidly, as they frequently do in the lower South 
 during widwinter, this temperature often damages them 
 seriously. While if in dormant conditions, they will sur- 
 vive the temperature of 22 degrees without injuries. It 
 is rarely ever necessary in the lower South to protect 
 seed beds aganst frost and the plants are always' better 
 when grown in beds without artificial heat. In fact a slow, 
 steady growth of the seed bed is recommended and as the 
 plants can be grown in the field, they should be sown 
 thinly,- and fertilized lightly. In high latitudes pro- 
 tected beds are recommended. 
 
 Damp-Off. 
 
 Frequeiitly seed beds are effected with damp-off, es- 
 pecially during wet weather. A good stirring of the soil 
 followed by an application of Bordeaux will arrest this 
 disease. 
 
 Varieties. 
 
 For an all-round, medium, early variety. Early Sum- 
 mer has proven the best for most sections, Charleston 
 Wakefield is the popular sharp-head variety, but is not so 
 hardy as' some others. Early Flat Dutch, and Succes- 
 sion, are good flat varieties. 'New varieties are constantly 
 being put out, and it would be advisible for those who 
 contemplate growing cabbage for market to make compar- 
 ative test each year of the new variety being put on the 
 market. 
 
Cabbage. 65 
 
 Distance. 
 
 For irrigated fields 30 by 15 inches is tlie distance. If 
 no irrigation is used 40 by 50 is a good distance. Crowd- 
 ing . produces medium size heads, running about forty to 
 the crate, which is a very desirable size. Heads running 
 very large are not so saleable, and command a lower 
 price. If ground is low, plants should be set on a slight 
 ridge; if high in a small furrow. This is a crop which 
 requires' abundance of moisture and plenty of fertilizer, 
 and one on which irrigation pays well. This crop re- 
 quires from 1,500 to 2,0'00' pounds of good commercial 
 fertilizer, and an additional 200 pounds of nitrate of soda 
 applied broadcast when the plants begin to head. A 
 heavy soil containing abundance of humus is to be rec- 
 ommended for cabbage. Frequent stirring of the soil is 
 particularly beneficial to this crop. 
 
 BUBST'ING. 
 
 Some varieties', especially the Wakefields, burst very 
 quickly after the heads are matured. This can be ob- 
 viated by going over and pushing over all fully matured 
 heads with the foot. These should be pushed to the north., 
 in order to protect them from the sun. Another way, if 
 the patch is uniformly headed, is to go through with a 
 bull-tongue and plow deeply on one side of each row, cut- 
 ting off part of the roots and checking the growth. When 
 ready to cut, the heads, together with several loose leaves, 
 are cut with a sharp butcher knife. If rows are wide 
 enough and not too stumpy, the best way to gather the 
 
66 Truck Geowing in the South. 
 
 crop is to make a box about two by eight feet and 20 
 inches deep, attach it to two runners and hitch a horse 
 to it, and as the cabbage are taken up, they may be put in 
 the box and pulled out and running between every other 
 row. These are hauled into convenient piles and there 
 packed into crates holding about 100 pounds. 
 
 Charleston Wakefield and Succession Cabbage. 
 
CUCUMBEES. 67 
 
 CUCUMBERS. 
 
 This is a crop now grown very largely in the South, 
 for the ISTorthern markets. It is a crop that contains over 
 90 per cent, water, and is most successfully grown with 
 irrigation. In the absence of irrigation, a low dark soil 
 should be selected, rich in vegetable matter, and well 
 drained. Muck lands are admirably adopted to cucum- 
 bers. This plant is more sensitive to frost perhaps than 
 any other vegetable, and a few cold nights where there is 
 only slight frost often ruins the crop. And if there is 
 cold weather enough to take the green color out of the 
 leaves, it will pay to plant over. For this reason it pays 
 to protect this crop aganst frost by using covers on cold 
 nights. If frost protection is used, a good distance is 
 6 by 3 feet, leaving two stalks to each hill. If low land 
 be used, which is to be recommended in all cases where 
 not irrigated, land should be thrown up in six-foot beds 
 with turning plow, the top of the beds fertlized, and the 
 seed planted three feet apart. Select a warm spell, when 
 the ground has begun to get warm, and make a slight im- 
 pression with the toe of the shoe. Drop in five or six 
 seed, and cover just enough to hide the seed. Then press 
 firmly with the toe of the shoe. Presuming that you have 
 sufiicient moisture, and the ground is warm, your cukes 
 will be up in four days. If ground is not sufficently 
 warm to germinate the seed at once they will rot, and 
 must be planted over. They are rapid growers after the 
 weather gets warm. Just before the vines meet in the 
 
English Telegraph Cucumbers Growing on Frame. 
 
CUCUMBEES. ■ 69 
 
 rows, or when about a foot long, an application of 200 
 pounds per acre of nitrate of soda should be used. 
 Where this crop is irrigated early plantings are frequently 
 made, the seed being sown in drills five or six feet apart 
 and protected from frost by two ten-inch planks nailed to- 
 gether and turned over the plants durng cold nights. If 
 however cold weather should be encountered, the crop will 
 never amount to much, as they never recover from a se- 
 vere set back. Large sums of money, however, have been 
 made on these early protected plantings, but the expense 
 is rarely ever justified, except where irrigation is used, 
 and a maxium crop is made. 
 
 Varieties. 
 
 Livingston Extra Early White Spine and Early Fort- 
 une, are the two varieties to be recommended, as these 
 hold their dark green color, and are early heavy bearers. 
 When the fruit is six to eight inches' long, they should be 
 picked and packed in bushel hampers, discarding all that 
 are deformed and too old. They are heavy bearers, and 
 in some cases 1,000 bushels or over have been grown on 
 an acre. 
 
Squashes. 71 
 
 SQUASHES. 
 
 Of all the vegetable crops this perhaps is the easiest 
 grown, and the freest from disease or insect. The early 
 varieties are ready for the table in 60 to TO days from 
 planting. While there is considerable demand for early 
 squash, one or two messes seem to satisfy most people, and 
 when they get plentiful on the market, they are hard to 
 move at any price, so I would advise all truckers to go 
 slow on squash, and never plant more than a few acres. 
 
 Distance, 
 
 For the small bush varieties five by three feet is a good 
 distance, and a level culture should be followed. 
 
 Varieties. 
 
 Of all the white varieties Woods' Early Prolific is the 
 earliest, best bearer, and best seller. The yellow crook- 
 neck sells well in some markets. The white bush variety 
 should be gathered just as the gloss disappears from the 
 young squash, regardless of size. They should be care- 
 fully handled, wrapped and packed in half-barrel crates. 
 If the price is high, perhaps bushel hampers would .be 
 preferable. Every farmer should raise a few Boston 
 Narrows for pies and baking. Two dozen hills will sup- 
 ply an ordinary family, and may be kept for months. 
 These are great runners and should be planted 8 by 8. 
 I can hardly recommend these for shipping. 
 
Beans. T3 
 
 BEAI^S. 
 
 This is a vegetable that is grown in the South exten- 
 sively for the ]S[orthern and Southern markets, and usu- 
 ally proves profitable. There is a great demand for this 
 vegetable, both in the ISTorth and South, and when scarce, 
 and of good quality, it often commands extreme prices, 
 sometimes selling as high as seven dollars per bushel, and 
 often as high as five. These prices however may only be 
 expected when it is very scarce. The quality of the stock 
 has as much to do with the price as scarcity on the market 
 and for this reason the object should be to produce nice 
 tender beans'. To do this sufficiency of moisture should 
 always be present, and the plant should never be stunted 
 in its growth. Where irrigation is not used, a rich damp 
 soil should be selected. Low hammock land, full of 
 humus is excellent for beans, and they require very little 
 fertilizer on this kind of soil. The plant is very tender, 
 and a temperature of 32 generally proves fatal. They 
 will stand considerably more cold when a week or two 
 old, than they will later. It being a quick crop (generally 
 60 to 70 days from planting to picking) it can be planted 
 profitably between other crops requiring a longer time to 
 mature, and can be picked over several times and pulled 
 out of the way of the following crop. The writer has fol- 
 lowed this plan for years and has found it profitable. 
 
 Varieties. 
 The bush varieties are practically the only ones planted 
 
74 Tkuok Growing in the South. 
 
 for shipping. These are usually ready to ship in 60 to 70 
 days after planting. The wax podded, and green, are 
 both planted but the wax are unsalable in the South. 
 Some Northern markets prefer them, Chicago and Boston 
 particularly. Where they are in demand they usually 
 sell for about as much as the green beans. The wax per- 
 haps produce thirty per cent, more per acre than the 
 green, and costs less for picking, as the pods are longer. 
 Of the green podded varieties Eed Valentine, Black Val- 
 entine, Extra Early Eefuge, are the best varieties. Of 
 the wax podded varieties. Curries' Rust Proof wax, Davis 
 and Wardells are the leading varieties. The former be- 
 ing preferred in many localities on account of its immun- 
 ity from rust or speck. All of the wax podded varieties 
 are more subject to diseases than the green. If the price 
 is high, it will pay the grower, after the beans have been 
 picked to have them spread out in a cool place and as- 
 sorted before packing, throwing out all that are too old, or 
 too young, or ill shaped, or broken. Then fill the hamper, 
 packing down well several times with the hands. Then 
 heap them up before fastening on the top. If the weather 
 is cool and no danger of heating, it would be found profit- 
 able to lay the outer beans straight at right angles with 
 the cracks, as they show off well and bring a better price. 
 The bushel hamper is the package generally used for 
 beans. Where the ground is given up entirely to this 
 crop they should be sown in drills three feet apart without 
 water and two and one-half with water ; three pecks to one 
 acre is required for seeding. Two or three plowings will 
 suffice, but care should be taken not to plow while the 
 plants are wet with dew or rain. The same precaution 
 
Beans. Y5 
 
 should be used in picking, as touching or handling the 
 vines when wet will cause rust. 
 
 Pole Varieties. 
 
 Kentucky wonder and Homestead are the best pole va- 
 rieties, and these must be staked. These varieties are, 
 however, only grown for home use, being considerably 
 later and more expensive than the bush varieties. They 
 will be found profitable for home gardens, and sometimes 
 for a local market, as the continue in bearing longer than 
 the bush varieties. 
 
76 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 RADISHES. 
 
 This vegetable is grown to some extent in the South, b^'it 
 not generally, owing to the fact that it is a crop which is 
 produced in a very short time and under low temperature, 
 so is grown extensively in the ISTorth in hot houses. As a 
 crop for shipment it can hardly be recommended to the 
 market gardener, still it is grown in some localities for 
 shipment. A rich, sandy loam is preferred for it, and 
 the seed should be planted in drills six to eight inches 
 apart. This crop matures in three to four weeks after 
 seed are planted. The soil should be well supplied with 
 moisture and fertilizer in order to produce crisp roots. 
 
 Varieties. 
 
 The following varieties are recommended : Long Scar- 
 let, French Breakfast, Short Top and Chartier. For a 
 local market this vegetable may be grown on a limited 
 scale with profit, but could not be recommended for ISTorth- 
 ern shipment. 
 
 CAEROTS. 
 
 This is a vegetable that is easily grown and flourishes 
 at a low temperature. It will survive 24 degrees, and is 
 immune to root knot, and is easily grown, but there is a 
 limited demand for it and it can hardly be recommended 
 for a shipping crop. The seed should be sown thinly in 
 rows 16 inches apart and cultivated about the same as rad- 
 ishes or beets. A rich soil and plenty moisture is essen- 
 tial to a good quality. 
 
78 Truck Gkowing in the South. 
 
 BEETS. 
 
 This crop is grown largely in the South for shipment 
 and usually shows good profit. It is easily grown and 
 hardy, surviving a temperature of 25, and is marketable 
 in 90 days from planting. 
 
 Soil. 
 
 Low land is unsuitable for beets, but abundant moisture 
 and quick growth are required to produce tender roots. 
 Irrigation is strongly advised for this' crop, and several 
 applications of nitrate of soda in addition to 1,500 pounrls 
 of complete fertilzer per acre. The soda should be sown 
 broadcast over the field after the dew has dried off. It 
 does not require a cultivation afterwards. Two applica- 
 tions of 150 pounds per acre should be made; one when 
 the beets are six inches high, and the other when they be- 
 gin to form roots. This crop is much effected by root 
 knot and should not be planted on land infected with this 
 insect. Prepare the land thoroughly by deep breaking 
 with shovel and harrow, getting out all trash possible with 
 harrow and horse rake. Lay off rows 18 to 20 inches and 
 plant with horse drill, aiming to get about one plant to 
 each inch. If not planted too thickly, no thinning or 
 hoeing will be necessary. Care should be taken that the 
 ground is sufficiently moist, or the seed will not germinate. 
 If there is any doubt about the ground being moist 
 enough to germinate the dry seed, they should be soaked 
 for 24 hours before planting. Make the water as hot as 
 
Beets. Y9 
 
 can be borne bj the band and pour in the seed, using 
 enough water to cover the seed. Then cover the vessel 
 with an old sack and let seed stand for 24 hours. Before 
 planting, pour off water, use enough dry sand to make 
 them easily bandied. Firming the soil is very important 
 in securing a good stand of beets. All well regulated 
 planters are supposed to have a wheel for packing the soil 
 after the dropping of the seed. The fertilizer should be 
 applied broadcast and harrowed in before planting. As 
 soon as the beets are a few inches high, they should be cul- 
 tivated with a wheel hoe using the cultivator. Subse- 
 quent cultivations' should be made with the sweep attached 
 to wheel hoe. 
 
 Varieties. 
 
 Eclipse, Early Blood turnip, and Egyptian, are good 
 varieties. Personally I prefer the first. 
 
 Packing. 
 
 When the roots are two to three inches in diameter, they 
 should be pulled out, removing the outer leaves. Then 
 tie in bunches containing five beets each, and pack in bar- 
 rels or barrel crate, marking the number of bunches to 
 each crate. They usually sell from four to six cents per 
 bunch in the ISTorthem market. If shipments are made 
 to the Southern markets half of the tops should be cut off 
 and the beets allowed to grow about four inches in diam- 
 eter. The ISTorthern markets use the tops as a salad, but 
 few Southern markets care for more than the roots. Cut 
 worms' are very fond of this crop, and it is generally nec- 
 essary after the crop has been removed to poison the worms 
 before another crop is planted. 
 
Eaely Scaelet TtTRNip Beets. 
 
Owioiirs. 81 
 
 ONIONS. 
 
 This crop is an exception in tliat it does not require ro- 
 tation as most crops do. Onions may be successfully 
 grown on the same land for a number of years and the soil 
 never seems to become tired. It is a hardy vegetable and 
 will survive a temperature of 24 degrees, consequently 
 may be classed as a winter crop in the lower South. This 
 crop thrives the best on the damp sandy loam, rich in 
 humus, but with irrigation it may be grown successfully 
 on the highest land. This is a somewhat expensive crop 
 to grow, and it should be planted only on soil that is rich, 
 and the ground should be thoroughly prepared and all 
 trash gotten out before the seed are planted. It is a good 
 plan to prepare the ground several weeks ahead of plant- 
 ing or setting, in order to allow all seeds of grass or weeds 
 to come up. The ground should be gone over with a har- 
 row just in advance of planting, in order to destroy this 
 young crop of weeds or grass. 
 
 Vabieities. 
 
 The Bermuda is the onion best adapted to the Gulf 
 States', and being of a mild flavor is preferred to other 
 varieties. Of this variety there are the white and bright 
 red, but the white is preferable. The Creole is another 
 variety which does well in the Gulf States, and is grown 
 to a considerable extent. Further north Red Weather- 
 field and Yellow Dianvers are recommended. Where 
 the thermometer dos not go below 24, the seed beds may 
 
82 Teuck Geowing in the South. 
 
 be grown in the open. Select a piece of land that has no 
 seeds of weeds or grass. Prepare well by raking ont all 
 grass and fertilize broadcast. Sow the seed thinly, with 
 drill in rows eight inches apart. The seed should be 
 one-half inch deep, should be packed, and kept watered 
 until they germinate. The seed beds should be cultivated 
 until plants are as large as a lead pencil. Sow broadcast, 
 over the ground to be planted, 1,500 pounds of good fer- 
 tilizer, and harrow in. Then make a marker with teeth 
 eighteen inches apart, and mark off the rows. Several 
 rows can be marked off at once. Draw the plants from 
 the seed beds and lay them in piles with roots even. Take 
 a sharp knife and cut off roots one-half inch in length and 
 cut away about one-half of the tops. The plants are now 
 ready for setting. If no irrigation is used, set for two 
 days after a good rain, but if irrigation is used, the plants 
 can be set and watered afterward. The transplanter 
 should provide himself with a round stick six inches long 
 and five-eights inches in diameter, slightly rounded at one 
 end. Take a small bunch of plants in the left hand and 
 punch holes four inches apart. Insert your plant with 
 the left hand and press the dirt firmly to it with the peg. 
 With a little practice one can get along rapidly with this 
 method. With sufficient moisture the plants will live 
 easily, and replanting will seldom have to be resorted to. 
 After a stand has been secured the ground should be cul- 
 tivated shallow with a wheel hoe and all vegetation kept 
 down. One hoeing may be necessary and a small onion 
 hoe made for the purpose should be used. Cultivation 
 should continue until the top falls over, which indicates 
 that the bulb has matured. Then the crop may be gath 
 
84 Truck Growing iisr the South. 
 
 ered and marketed. However it will be found profitable 
 to market a portion of the crop when the bulb is about 
 half growa. Cut away the roots and about half the tops 
 and packing in half-barrel crates. It is better to bunch 
 them in this style using about five to the bunch. If the 
 local demand is good, the ripe onions can be kept for sev- 
 eral months by burying them in sand or putting away in 
 hay as recommended for saving seed potatoes. This crop 
 should turn out 400 to 800 bushels per acre, and usually 
 is profitable. 
 
Cantaloupes. 85 
 
 CANTALOUPES. 
 
 This has now become one of the most extensively grown 
 of the garden crops, and the demand for good stock is al- 
 most unlimited. This crop is now grown extensively in 
 the South, but it never brings such prices as the product 
 of the arid regions of the Southwest. A dry climate and 
 atmosphere is essential to the production of a first-class 
 cantaloupe. Excessive moisture at, or near the time of 
 maturing, destroys the flavor, and makes the melon in- 
 sipid. Still this crop usually pays well in the lower 
 South, as there is very little competition with the early 
 Southern product. 
 
 Soil. 
 
 An ordinary fertile soil will produce good cantaloupes, 
 but the ground should be high land. This crop should 
 never be grown where the root knot is present. The 
 Eocky Ford is the variety now planted almost exclusively 
 for the market. It is not necessary to prepare the ground 
 so thoroughly for this crop. Break deep and harrow off, 
 and lay off rows six feet apart, check six feet. Scatter a 
 half-pound of fertilizer at each check, and mix well with 
 fork before planting. Plant four or five seeds in each 
 check, as soon as danger of frost is over and ground is 
 warm. When the plants are up, thin to two in a hill 
 Make a second application of fertilizer, broadcast, as soon 
 as the vines are a foot long. It will be found profitable 
 
86 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 to use covers to protect this crop in case of cold nights or 
 light frost. 
 
 Shipping. 
 
 When the crop is ready to ship, they should be picked 
 when fully matured and packed in standard crates', forty- 
 five to the crate, as this is the size that brings the best 
 price. Other sizes should be shipped as culls, by express, 
 to near markets. This crop must be loaded in refrigera- 
 tor cars as it will not carry in ventilators. 
 
Cauliflower. 87 
 
 CAULIFLOWEK. 
 
 This crop is grown to a considerable extent in tlie South, 
 and usually pays'. Where the temperature does not go 
 below twenty-five it may be planted in October for Febru- 
 ary shipment, and the plants may be grown without pro- 
 tection. In colder localities the plants must be protected 
 against cold, and planted later. The great drawback to 
 the crop is the price of the seed. The method of cultiva- 
 tion is quite similar to that of cabbage. 
 
 Soil. 
 
 A very rich soil is required for this crop, and abun- 
 dance of moisture must be had. Irrigation is especially 
 recommended. The cost of the seed necessarily makes the 
 crop an expensive one. The seed bed should be thoroughly 
 prepared, and sown thinly in drills eight to ten inches 
 apart. If sown thinly, transplanting will be found un- 
 necessary. The process' of fertilizing and setting in the 
 field advised for cabbage will apply to this crop. The f»ul- 
 tivation is also the same as for cabbage. 
 
 Vaeieties. 
 
 The following varieties are recommended for Southern 
 planting : 
 
 When the heads begin to appear, the outer head leaves 
 should be drawn over the heads and tied with strings, or 
 pinned with wooden tooth picks, to protect them from sun 
 and rain. This process is necessary to produce a beautiful 
 
88 Tbtjck Growing in the South. 
 
 white head. When the heads are fully grown, they should 
 be cut when thoroughly dry, retaining a few of the outer 
 head leaves. Then take these to the packing house and 
 assort them carefully, and wrap in vegetable paper. The 
 half-barrel crate will be found a good package for this 
 vegetable. 
 
 Large Snowball Cauliflowee. 
 
Okra. 89 
 
 OKEA. 
 
 This plant is especially adapted to the South and pro- 
 duces all summer, if kept in a good growing condition. 
 The demand both JsTorth and South is quite limited, but 
 it usually commands a good price. !Rew York and Phila- 
 delphia are the best markets. It is a very easy crop to 
 grow and has few insect enemies, but it is very tender and 
 will not succeed after the ground gets cold and the nights 
 chilly. It is strictly a warm weather plant and for this 
 reason should not planted until the ground is warm. 
 
 Soil. 
 
 For early crop a sandy loam is preferred, and while it 
 does not thrive on low land an abundance of moisture is 
 required in order to produce tender pods. Plant in rows 
 four to five feet apart and thin two feet in drills, leaving 
 two stalks to a hill. The cultivation is the same as for 
 cotton or com. 
 
 VaBIEiTIBS. 
 
 For IsTorthem shipment a short thick green pod is 
 wanted three to four inches long. The stem should be cut 
 about one inch to prevent wilting. French Market is 
 decidedly the best variety for shipping. Perkins long 
 pod is also good. The six basket tomato carrier is the 
 package to be preferred in shipping this vegetable. As 
 this plant bears all summer a portion of the patch may be 
 reserved for home market and the product sold all sum- 
 mer. 
 
90 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 TURNIPS. 
 
 This crop is not grown much for shipment, but it is a 
 valuable one for the local market. It is easily grown and 
 very hardy; produces heavily and is a money-maker f:>r 
 the local market. Like beets, if tender roots are wanted, 
 quick growth must be had, and the crop must not be al- 
 lowed to be checked in its growth. Irrigation is essen- 
 tial to the production of first-class turnips. 
 
 Varieties. 
 
 The Purple Top Globe is the best all-round turnip. It 
 is large, handsome, and very tender. Prepare land thor- 
 oughly as for beets, and sow thinly in rows 20 inches apart 
 and. leave about one plant to two inches at first pulling. 
 Take out every other plant, so as to give the one left more 
 room to grow. Sometime when the Korthem cabbage crop 
 is short it will pay to ship this crop to Southern markets 
 in January and February. It is very hardy and may bo 
 grown in the lower South any time during the winter. 
 
 EUTA BAGA. 
 
 This plant differs very little from the turnip, except 
 that it requires a little longer time in growth and is sweeter 
 and keeps better. The same planting and cultivation 
 given to turnips will apply to this vegetable. 
 
' Pumpkins. 91 
 
 PUMPKIi^S. 
 
 While this crop is not grown for shipment, it will bp 
 found profltahle to grow a few for home use and local 
 markets. It is easily produced, and may he grown on 
 almost any except wet land. Plant 9 hy 9 any time after 
 danger of frost is over and cultivate same as for watermel- 
 ons. This product may he kept for a long time hy stor- 
 ing in a cool place. 
 
 SALSIFY. 
 
 This crop is grown to some extent for shipping. It is' 
 called oyster plant and resemhles the oyster somewhat in 
 flavor. It is hardy and survives a temperature of 22 and 
 in the lower South may he planted any time after October 
 the first. Prepare land thoroughly as for beets, and sow 
 in rows 18 inches apart and thin to four inches. It re- 
 quires a rich soil and plenty of moisture to produce tender 
 roots. The culture is the same as for beets. When ready 
 for shipment the roots should be tied in bunches about 8 
 to the hunch. 
 
 PAESLEY. 
 
 " This plant is not grown for shipment, but is used almost 
 exclusively for garnishing. It is easily grown as it with- 
 stands very cold weather. It may be relied on for winter 
 use when other garnishing plants may have been destroyed 
 hy cold. Sow in rich soil and provide abundant moisture, 
 thinning plants 2 by 1. In the lower South sowings may 
 be made October 1. For garnishing Moss Curled is a 
 good variety. 
 
92 Tkuck Geowing in the South. 
 
 LETTUCE. 
 
 This vegetable is now grown extensively for !N^ortliern 
 markets, some points in Florida growing several hun- 
 dred carloads' annually. The Florida crop is marketed 
 principally in the winter months, and the States farther 
 north have it to come in as the Florida crop is over. The 
 heading varieties are grown principally, although some 
 leaf lettuce is grown. Big Boston, a very large, compactly 
 heading variety is the favorite. California Cream Butter 
 is also planted to some extent, and is very popular in SDme 
 sections. Both are good, hut owing to the fine size. Big 
 Boston is generally preferred. 
 
 This vegetable will survive a temperature of twenty 
 degrees, under normal conditions, if plants are not headed, 
 but after the heads are formed a temperature of twenty- 
 five degrees will practically ruin it. 
 
 Soil. 
 
 If irrigation is not used, a damp soil must be had. A 
 dark loam well drained, is especially adapted to lettuce 
 growing. The crop is cut in about ninety days from time 
 of planting. It is easily grown but requires' high fertil- 
 ization, if the best results are to be obtained. 
 
 Seed Bed. 
 
 Select a piece of ground convenient to water, harrow 
 and rake off clean. Sow seed broadcast, thickly enough 
 
94 Teuck Growing in the South. 
 
 to get one plant to the square inch, or a trifle thicker will 
 do. Brush the ground over lightly with a board, and run 
 a roller over to make the soil firm. Water once daily for 
 four days. After the seed have germinated, they may be 
 watered once every three days, and less frequently as the 
 plants grow older. 
 
 Setting. 
 
 The plants live easily and may be set as other plants are 
 but the roots should not go lower than two inches from the 
 surface. Eighteen inches is a good distance to set them. 
 
 Cultivation. 
 
 Several plowings with hand plow will suffice to make 
 the crop. 
 
 Packing. 
 
 After the heads are fully formed, cut the plants near 
 the gTound, leaving all decayed or yellow leaves attached 
 to the root. Pull off any that may by chance be left Avith 
 the head, then pull the outer leaves over the head and pack 
 first layer with the butts down and the next layer with 
 the butts up. Continue to pack in this manner, bringing 
 the heads together. Finish up with the butts against the 
 top of the hamper. Half barrel hampers should be used 
 for this vegetable. It should be gathered while dry and 
 shipped by express, or in refrigerator cars. If the weather 
 is' warm, refrigeration only should be used. Four or five 
 hundred hampers of lettuce are frequently gathered from 
 one acre but the price is very fluctuating, varying with the 
 supply. 
 
96 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 CELERY. 
 
 The writer can remember not many years ago when 
 celery was used to a very limited extent — principally as a 
 seasoning for soups. Our largest cities would take only a 
 car or two per week then ; now New York alone will take 
 one hundred cars weekly. This illustrates to what a re- 
 markable extent a taste may be acquired for some vegeta- 
 bles. There is a single station in Florida that now ships 
 annually over five hundred cars of celery and this year's 
 output of the southern part of the State will be approxi- 
 mately two thousand cars'. The writer remembers when, 
 less than fifteen years ago, it was not known that celery 
 could be grown in Florida. Mr. J^eylans, of Tampa, was 
 the first grower to make a success of it. Since his experi- 
 ment, it has been demonstrated that it can be grown on 
 almost any class of soil, provided that abundance of water 
 is supplied. It is useless to undertake to grow this crop 
 without irrigation. As before stated it can be grown on 
 almost any kind of soil, but prefers a dark, heavy soil, 
 moist but well drained. Abundance of moisture is indis- 
 pensible for this crop. Low lands with tile twenty-one 
 feet apart and sub-irrigation is the system usually em- 
 ployed. However surface irrigation is being employed 
 with much success. On low land the tile acts as drain- 
 age in wet weather and supplies the water when needed, 
 by allowing it to perculate the soil. Artesian wells are be- 
 ing used generally to supply the water. 
 
Cei^eky. 97 
 
 Vakieties. 
 
 Golden Self Bleaching is practically the only variety 
 planted in the South. 
 
 Seed Beds. 
 
 The seeds of celery are very small and the plants are 
 very delicate until some size has been attained, so great 
 
 HBS^BP^'^^^il 
 
 
 HR 
 
 
 ^^H 
 
 BajB^^^^H 
 
 
 E 
 
 
 ^M 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^H 
 
 
 ^^m 
 
 
 ^^^R 
 
 il-'^^^^ ^rJ 
 
 
 ^^^ 
 
 
 rij^^^^ -""'^^^mI 
 
 ^^^^^m 
 
 b" 
 
 
 
 ^mm 
 
 ^^^^^S| 
 
 ^^ 
 
 a 
 
 
 I^H 
 
 zA^ ' --'"'''^'^^^^^^^^^^S^^^^ 
 
 
 H^EB 
 
 
 ^^^^^^Ih 
 
 "VL"^ '^ taiim ><* ^£A^dfi^HD^HBH|^^9^^^^H 
 
 
 ^^^^I^B^ 
 
 
 ^^H^^^^^^^^^B 
 
 H|^BWf||^»^^l^a^^^^^^^^^^^^B^^^B^^H|B 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 GrEOwiNG Young Celeby Plants. 
 
 care should be used in growing the plants'. They are 
 very slow to germinate and must be planted on the surface 
 with no covering in order to get the seed to germinate. 
 To prepare the seed bed, rake odff all trash, mark off rows 
 four inches aj)art, but not over one-fourth of an inch deep. 
 Sow the seed in these rows and cover the bed with gunny 
 sacks, laying them down on the ground. Water the beds 
 
Celery. 99 
 
 twice a day until the seeds have germinated, which will 
 require ten days, or more. As soon as the seed germinate 
 remove the sacks and cover the beds with laths, so as to 
 make a half shade. The plants are slow growers, and con- 
 siderable time is required for them to get large enough to 
 transplant. As soon as they are about three inches high, 
 they should be pricked out and transplanted in beds about 
 three by four inches, and if the weather is warm they 
 should be shaded for several days after transplanting. 
 Care should be used in transplanting to the bed and field to 
 see that the roots are not set more than one inch deep, as 
 they are surface feeders and will not do well if set too deep. 
 Two weeks after the plants are transplanted, they are 
 ready for the field. 
 
 Pebpaeation oe Geound. 
 
 Before setting a field in celery, about ten to fifteen two- 
 horse loads of stable manure per acre should be scattered 
 broadcast over the ground and turned under shallow with 
 a turning plow. Take a bull tongue and break the ground 
 to a depth of eight inches and harrow down well. Lay off 
 straight rows, with a scooter, thirty inches apart and sow 
 two thousand pounds per acre of good vegetable fertilizer, 
 and. cover with two furrows. This should be done ten 
 days before setting. Just before setting, stir the fertilizer 
 well with a fine tooth harrow. When ready to set, 
 stretch a garden line over the furrow containing the fer- 
 tilizer, and take a roller eight inches long and about six 
 inches in diameter, with strips one-half by one-half nailed, 
 every four inches. Run this roller over the garden line 
 and you have the impression of both the line and the strips. 
 
n 
 
 'H 
 
 
 U2 
 
 
 fc 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 
 H 
 
 Q 
 
 U 
 
 ^ 
 
 M 
 
 tf 
 
 ^ 
 
 H 
 
 s 
 
 M 
 
 
 n 
 
 Izi 
 
 S 
 
 g 
 
 
 ») 
 
 w 
 
 o 
 
 tf 
 
 pq 
 
 <! 
 
 ^ 
 
 J 
 
 
 p" 
 
 W 
 
 ^ 
 
 u 
 
 M 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 
 H 
 
 u 
 
 fc 
 
 s 
 
 < 
 
 
 
 J 
 
 o 
 
 
 Q 
 
 
 
 n 
 
 ^^ 
 
 <! 
 
 o 
 
 ^ 
 
 03 
 
 P 
 
 g 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 U 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 w 
 
 
 w 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
Oeleey. 101 
 
 This shows where the plants are to be set and gives a per- 
 fectly straight row and uniform distance for setting. The 
 plants may then be set, the dirt may be pressed to the roots 
 and the water turned on. 
 
 Cultivation". 
 Frequent, shallow cultivation with a fine tooth harrow 
 should be made. When the plants have been set thirty 
 days', a second application of two thousand pounds per 
 acre of good vegetable fertilizer should be scattered broad- 
 cast and stirred in with a cultivator. Three weeks later 
 an application of three hundred pounds of nitrate of soda 
 per acre should be used, and repeated every ten days un- 
 til celery is ready for bleaching. Celery is an expensive 
 crop and one can not neglect it. Quick and steady growth 
 insures a product that is tender and crisp. These quali- 
 ties are essential to good prices. An acre of good celery 
 should yield eight hundred to one thousand crates and it 
 usually nets about a dollar per crate — sometimes more. 
 These prices justify one in going to the expense. The 
 plant is hardy and will stand a temperature of twenty- 
 two without injury if it is in a normal condition. 
 
 Bleaching. 
 Boards twelve to fourteen inches wide are used in 
 bleaching. One is placed on each side and brought up 
 against the plant at the top. Second grade cypress is usu- 
 ally used for this purpose. One to two weeks are required 
 to bleach it, ard when this is done the plants are cut and 
 packed in standard crates and loaded in refrigerator cars. 
 This vegetable does not carry well in warm weather and 
 refrigeration is necessary. 
 
The Climax — A Good Early Beeey. 
 
Stkawbeeries. 103 
 
 STEAWBEKRIES. 
 
 As my experience and observation with this fruit has 
 been confined principally to Florida, and not feeling that 
 I am well informed on its growth and culture in other 
 States, what I have to say will apply to Florida only. 
 However it is the writer's opinion that the growth and cul- 
 ture of the strawberry should be about the same in the 
 lower portion of the Gulf States as it is in Florida, as the 
 climate is nearly the same. At any rate the instructions 
 here given for its culture in Florida should be tested in 
 the other sections referred to. 
 
 Vaeieties. 
 
 The question of varieties is an all-important one with 
 strawberries much more so than with other garden plants. 
 Some varieties which succeed admirably in Florida do 
 not succeed elsewhere and vice versa. The Klondyke 
 however seems to be the general favorite everywhere. 
 This berry is undoubtedly the best ever tested in Florida, 
 but has the disadvantage of being perhaps thirty days later 
 than some other varieties. Lady Thompson is another 
 well tried variety but several weeks later than some. It 
 is large, handsome, very prolific and a fairly good shipper, 
 but not so good a shipper as Klondyke. Excelsior is' the 
 general favorite among the early varieties, frequently 
 yielding berries for Thanksgiving. It is fair in quality 
 and moderate size, and extremely early and prolific. It 
 bears unusually well in cold weather, but is much inclined 
 
104 Tkuok Growing in the South. 
 
 to rust — this disease causing the later shipments to be 
 small and insipid, Eed Bird is another berrj which is 
 about as early as Excelsior but is not self-pollinating. It 
 is necessary to plant every third row in some pollinating 
 variety, the Excelsior being the variety usually used for 
 pollinating, as it is necessary to have two varieties bloom 
 at the same time. Red Bird is a conical shaped berry 
 and is large, early and handsome and a hardier berry than 
 Excelsior, but the general complaint comes from all quar- 
 ters that it does not fruit well in cold weather and for this 
 reason alone nine-tenths of the growers are abandoning it. 
 I would suggest however that such an early and valuable 
 variety should not be given up without testing it further. 
 It strikes' me that the reason of its unfruitfulness during 
 cold weather lies in the fact that the berries being cov- 
 ered with straw prevents fructification. This diflSculty 
 might be avoided by covering with cloth, placing a polli- 
 nating variety in each third or fourth hill, all in the samo 
 row. The covering will be referred to later. The three 
 varieties referred to are practically the only ones grown 
 in Florida, many others having been tried but found want- 
 ing. 
 
 Soil. 
 
 Strawberries must have a congenial soil to which they 
 are adapted. They require a dark, damp soil, with a mod- 
 erate supply of vegetable matter, but not too much. Low 
 hammocks after having been cultivated for two years are 
 the best for berries. ISTew lands will not do as the berry 
 plants run too much to vine. Dark pine lands with plenty 
 of moisture also do well, but are not so good as the ham- 
 
Brandywine Strawberry. 
 
 A Cherry in the Berry Patch. 
 
106 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 mocks. Plenty of moisture is the first consideration. On 
 this class of soils they succeed well without irrigation, but 
 if dry lands are used irrigation must be resorted to. Light 
 sandy soils whether hammock or pine rarely do well with 
 strawberries'. 
 
 Pkepaeation of Land. 
 
 The land should be sown in cow peas not later than June 
 fifteenth, and they should be mown a^out August 20. Let 
 the peas lay on the ground ten days after moving. Cut 
 them up well with disc harrow and then turn under 
 shallow with turning plow. Let the ground lay in this 
 shape until September 15th, then take the disc harrow 
 and throw into straight beds three feet apart, open a fur- 
 row on top of bed with bull tongue, and sow one thousand 
 pounds per acre of good vegetable fertilizer, covering with 
 double shovel. Let it stand thus until about October 1st, 
 which is' the proper time to set plants. If one has favor- 
 able weather the plants may be set a week sooner. Before 
 setting run through the fertilizer with fine-tooth cultivator, 
 and your land is ready to receive the plants. Care should 
 be taken that no green vegetation of any consequence 
 should be turned under at this season. A large growth of 
 green matter turned under at this time of year will surely 
 result in failure, producing acid in the soil. It has been 
 found beneficial in many cases to use lime broadcast at the 
 time of bedding, and I would recommend its trial at least. 
 
 Setting Plants. 
 
 October first is the proper time to set plants' in Florida. 
 Where irrigation is not used it is important to set in 
 
Strawberries. 107 
 
 cloudy, cool weather if possible. We always have a cloudy, 
 cool spell of weather lasting about a week near the Equi- 
 nox. This occurs sometimes just before and sometimes 
 just afterward. This favorable weather should be taken 
 advantage of in setting berries. If irrigation is employed 
 however, they may be set at any time. In case the Skin- 
 ner or overhead system is used the plants' should be sprayed 
 daily for a week until they are well established. The 
 plants are set in rows three feet apart and twelve inches in 
 drill. Take a common garden hoe, cut the handle to two 
 feet, and have a boy drop them the right distance apart. 
 The setter takes the hoe in his right hand, the plant in his 
 left. Open a hole somewhat slanting with the comer of 
 the hoe, and place the roots of the plant in the hole, trying 
 to spread them as much as possible. Then allow the dirt 
 to fall back on the roots and press it firmly with the heel. 
 Be careful to have the plant bud well above the surface. 
 
 Cultivation. 
 
 They should be cultivated the same as other crops, being 
 careful that they are not worked deep after roots are well 
 established. The beds should be maintained, and if 
 worked down should be worked up again. The plants 
 should have about two more applications of fertilizers of 
 about one thousand pounds each. Make the second appli- 
 cation about the time berries begin to form, and the third 
 when half through picking. Use fertilizer containing two 
 per cent, of the ammonia derived from nitrate of soda or 
 nitrate of potash. 
 
108 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 Picking and Packing. 
 
 The berries are picked and packed in quart baskets and 
 shipped in pony refrigerators, holding eighty quarts each. 
 It is necessary for one to provide himself with refrigera- 
 tors sufficient to handle this crop before shipping. 
 
 Protection. 
 
 It is the universal practice for growers who move their 
 crops early to provide pinestraw before frost sets in. This" 
 is placed between the rows of plants and when cold weather 
 is approaching the straw is drawn over the plants and 
 raked off, as soon as the weather justifies. 
 
 Wliile this is the universal method of protection, I 
 would recommend for trial two six-inch boards, cypress 
 preferred, say eighten or twenty feet long. Brace these 
 together so as to have them twelve inches apart and take a 
 medium grade of domestic, soak it in linseed oil, wring it 
 out well, and tack this cloth over the boards. Place this 
 cover over the row of plants, allowing it to remain night 
 and day except when working or picking. While the ex- 
 pense is somewhat more than straw, I believe the addi- 
 tional advantages will justify the increase in cost. 
 
 Growing Plants. 
 It has been found that home-grown plants are far su- 
 perior to plants grown elsewhere, and the usual custom is 
 to get plants from points north of Georgia and set them 
 here in Florida in March. They should be set about two 
 by four feet on new hammock land if possible, on which 
 no crop of weeds or grass has matured. These must be 
 kept cultivated, and by October the ground will be covered 
 with vigorous plants, which are then ready for setting. 
 
110 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 SWEET POTATOES. 
 
 While this crop does not come specifically within the 
 scope of the truck grower, at the same time it is a crop 
 that is universally planted in the South, and comes in 
 well for the truck grower after his garden crops are off. 
 However, it may be stated here to judge that it is a crop 
 that does not properly belong to precede vegetables. A 
 separate plot of ground may be had for growing potatoes 
 and they may be grown after the principal vegetable crops 
 have been shipped. 
 
 Vaeibties. 
 
 The question of variety is one to be considered before 
 the crop is planted, also a question of marketing and where 
 marketed. In sweet potatoes, the Southern taste is wide- 
 ly different from that of the ISTorth. The South will take 
 only the potato that is sweet and juicy, what we call the 
 "Yam," while the ISTorth wants nothing but something 
 dry and mealy. 
 
 Growing potatoes in the South for ISTorthern markets 
 has' been tried only in a small way, and what the possibili- 
 ties are are yet to be determined, however, my own expe- 
 rience and observation in that line are quite favorable, as 
 I have successfully grown the Jersey or ITansemond in 
 Florida, and the quality is fully up to that product grown 
 in Virginia or Jersey. I would advise experimenting 
 with the Jersey potato for shipment to ISTorthern markets. 
 If the Southern markets are the ones' in which the crops 
 
Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Ill 
 
 are to be marketed, then we only have to consider varieties 
 that are adapted to the Southern tastes. The "Pumpkin 
 Yam" or the "Yellow Yam" is hj all means the only va- 
 riety to be grown for Southern markets for table use. 
 There are many other varieties of this yam, they go by 
 different names in different localities', but one of the most 
 popular variety now is the "JSTancy Hall." Thi^ 
 potato was originated in Florida, but now is grown all 
 
 Sweet Potato Stoee Rot Cae'sed by Bretising. 
 
 over the South. It is one of the very best keepers of the 
 pumpkin yam family, if not the best. It is a good pro- 
 ducer, and in eating quality is perhaps one of the best. 
 One of the chief objections, however, to the "I^ancy Hall" 
 is its tendency to be slow in sprouting; another objection- 
 able quality is that it makes a slow growth of vine, as vin^^s 
 are largely relied upon in growing potatoes. 
 
 The "Golden Beauty" which was introduced by the 
 writer some years ago is considered by general consent 
 among those who have tasted it, to be the best of the pump- 
 
112 Truck Geowing in the South. 
 
 kin yam varieties'. In eating quality, it is unexcelled. In 
 producing quality, it perhaps takes the lead of all. It is 
 early, and a vigorous grower, producing great quantities 
 of vine, it is a fair keeper, though not so good as the 
 l^ancy Hall, but is perhaps as good a keeper as any of the 
 other Yellow Yam varieties. 
 
 "Enormous," "Key West," and some other varieties are 
 great producers, but the quality is not so good as the pump- 
 kin variety, however, they are fair in eating quality, and 
 will produce much more than any of the pumpkin yam 
 family. 
 
 "Enormous" is a variety introduced by the writer some 
 years ago, and was grown along side of the Nancy Hall 
 and exactly doubled the latter in yield, producing 536 
 bushels per acre on land that was lightly fertilized. 
 
 For early planting, the potatoes' should be bedded on 
 about four inches of stable manure and covered with about 
 one inch of soil, and should be kept well watered. In the 
 latitude of the southern part of the Gulf States, they 
 should be bedded the 15th of January, and February 1st. 
 As the potatoes begin to sprout through the ground, an ad- 
 ditional inch of soil should be put on the bed. When 
 vines are six inches high they may be drawn out and set 
 in the field. 
 
 Planting. 
 
 When ready to set plants in the field, broadcast over 
 the ground 1,000 pounds per acre of cottonseed-meal or 
 Castorpomac, then throw up beds' about four feet apart, act 
 the plants about 18 inches, keep the ground cultivated un- 
 
Sweet Potatoes. 113 
 
 til the vines have met in the middles, using for this' pur- 
 pose an ordinary sweep. About the time the vines have 
 met in the middle, throw vines back and broadcast 
 about 1,000 pounds per acre good vegetable fertilizer run- 
 ning about 8 per cent, potash, throw the dirt from the 
 middle of the row with a turning plow, and this finishes 
 cultivation. It is presumed anyone is familiar with the 
 method of digging. 
 
 This crop is marketed principally in the local markets 
 where it is grown, and if shipped at all, is usually in 
 bulk or carload lots. 
 
114 Truck GRcnviNG in the South. 
 
 WATERMELONS. 
 
 This is a crop especially adapted to sandy soils' of tlie 
 South. It is grown extensively for shipments to both 
 jSTorthern and Southern markets. As is the case with po- 
 tatoes, the question of variety is one to be considered in 
 marketing the crops, as the South prefers a long slender 
 melon, while the North prefer the large round variety. 
 However, there are so many improved varieties now being 
 introduced that it would hardly be safe to say what va- 
 rieties would be preferred. Kattlesnake, Florida Favor- 
 ite and Kleckley's Sweet are varieties which are popular 
 in the South. Many of these, however, have not good 
 shipping qualities, and do not carry well for a great dis- 
 tance. They may be safely loaded, about one-half car of 
 these being placed on top of other varieties which bear 
 shipping better. For the Northern markets, the Kolb 
 Gem, Duke Jones, and some others are popular varieties. 
 
 Seed. 
 
 By all means nothing but Southern grown seed should 
 be used. There are reliable seed growers in the South, 
 who grow seed on a large scale, and melon growers should 
 get in touch with them. 
 
 Planting. 
 
 For the latitude at the lower portion of Gulf States, 
 February 1st to the 15th, is the proper time to plant. For 
 lower Florida, planting may be done as early as January 
 
116 Tbuok Geowinq in the South. 
 
 10th. In all sections, plant covers should be provided to 
 protect the plant against frost. The expense of covering 
 is light, on account of the small number of hills per acre. 
 It is by all means advisable to protect against frost or 
 even cold nights. Tomato baskets holding about four 
 quarts, or strawberry baskets are to be recommended for 
 this purpose. While this does' not afford so tight a cover- 
 ing as some other materials, it will save the crop against 
 a heavy frost, and may be, allowed to remain over the 
 plants four or five days, as they admit sufficient light and 
 air to prevent dangering results. 
 
 As before stated, sandy soil is preferred for melons. 
 ]^ew land is well adapted to this crop, also old fields that 
 have laid out for a number of years. Low land in no 
 case should be planted in melons. 
 
 Lay off rows eight feet apart and check the same dis- 
 tance. Before planting, open the furrow one way and 
 put about two shovels of stable manure per hill, scattering 
 it to a length of three feet and cover with two furrows, 
 use in addition about one-half pound commercial fertilizer 
 per hill. As soon as the ground is sufficiently wann to 
 germinate the seed, they should be planted, four or five 
 seed to the hill at the intersection of row and check. Plant 
 the seed shallow, and firm the stfil well with the foot. 
 The seed should be examined every few days, and if in- 
 clined to rot, should be replanted along side of first plant- 
 ing. Presuming that covers should be provided for frost 
 protection, it will be unnecessary to make further planting 
 after the seed are up. 
 
 Cultivating should be done as for other crops, and when 
 vines are a foot long, the second application of 1,000 
 
Wateemelons. 117 
 
 pounds per acre of fertilizer sliould be*made on each side 
 of the melons, plowing in with cultivation. 
 
 Cultivation should be continued until vines have met 
 in rows, and the vines should never be moved or turned 
 in any case. 
 
 Shipping. 
 
 When the first melons are ready to ship, car should be 
 provided and the floor covered with sawdust to a depth of 
 six inches before melons are loaded, if sawdust can not be 
 had, pine straw is a good substitute, using it to a depth of 
 about twelve inches, and on each side of the car, as the 
 melons are loaded. About 1,200 melons averaging twenty 
 pounds is a car, and they should never be loaded much 
 above a minimum car if the smaller melons are shipped. 
 They should be shipped to themselves as grading is fully 
 important in handling melons as it is with other crops. 
 
118 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 COWPEAS. 
 
 This is strictly a Southern crop, as the seasons Korth 
 are most too short and the nights too cool for this plant 
 to grow to perfection. It is one of the great forage field 
 crops of the South, and as a soil renovator, ranks with 
 clover. It is also an important hay crop in the South, and 
 the hay, if properly cured is unsurpassed in protein con- 
 tent. It belongs to the Legume family and gathers it sup- 
 ply of nitrogen from the atmosphere, hence its great value 
 as a soil renovator. It is grown among corn. It may be 
 sown broadcast at the last plowing of the corn or may be 
 planted between the hills of corn, but the former method 
 is probably the better. If planted by this method how- 
 ever, it is not convenient to use the crop for hay, but the 
 peas may be utilized for stock feed or seed purposes and 
 the vines turned under for fertilizer. 
 
 After crops of vegetables are oif, if it is desired to grow 
 peas, they may be sown broadcast at the rate of one bushel 
 per acre, and subsequently mowed for hay if they are to 
 be used for that purpose. The roots of this crop contain 
 a large per cent, of nitrogen and even after the crop is cut 
 for hay, the soil is much improved by having the roots in 
 the ground. 
 
 Varieties. 
 
 There are many varieties of cow peas', some which bear 
 quite early and make a small bush, others which bear later 
 and make much vine. The quantity of vines produced 
 per acre should be the prime consideration, whether the 
 crop is to be used for hay or for soil renovation. How- 
 
COWPEAS. 119 
 
 ever, if the pods are to be utilized for stock feed, it is de- 
 sirable to use the variety v^hich produces a large 
 amount of peas as well as vines. The varieties suited to 
 this purpose are Unknown (Wonderful) and Black, and 
 will perhaps produce the largest amount of pods. If the 
 crop is grown exclusively for hay or soil renovation, the 
 quantity of vine of course is a prime consideration. For 
 this purpose^ the Clay and Iron peas are to he recommend- 
 ed. The Iron pea is perhaps the hardiest of all and has the 
 advantage of most other varieties, in that it has a longer 
 growing season, and grows until killed by frost no matter 
 when planted. It also has a further advantage of other 
 varieties, in that it is more resistent to hlight and root 
 knot. This disease is particularly destructive to many 
 crops, especially on sandy soil in warm latitudes. The 
 iron pea is not fully immune, but in the presence of root 
 knot will grow and thrive where other varieties fail to 
 grow. 
 
 Curing foe Hat. 
 
 If properly cured, this crop makes excellent hay and 
 as before stated stands very high in protein. If well cured 
 hay of pea vines is fed to stock, the grain ration may be 
 cut in half, hut unless it is properly cured it is' almost 
 worthless and stock will not eat it. The writer has seen 
 and tried a great many methods of curing pea vine hay, 
 and for damp climates where rains are likely to come at 
 any time, only one method can be recommended. While 
 this incurs somewhat more expense than other methods it 
 insures a first-class article of hay regardless of weather 
 conditions. Build a shed 16x32 open on all sides but with 
 
120 Teuok Geowing in the Sotjth. 
 
 a tightly covered roof, make it nine feet to eaves, then con- 
 struct racks two and one-half feet apart and use 2x2 strips 
 placed one foot apart. Cut sufficient vines to fill this rack 
 up, commencing in the morning after the dew has dried 
 off. Allow the vines to lay in the sun until late in the af- 
 ternoon if possible, hut take them up the same day as cut. 
 If there is a possibility of having rain early in the after- 
 noon, they should be taken up before the rain comes. 
 Scatter them loosely over the racks, being careful not to 
 pack the vines, and allow an open space of at least six 
 inches between racks for a free circulation of air. If the 
 vines are put up without being wet with rain or dew, it 
 matters not how much rain should come afterwards, you 
 will have a first-class article of hay. It is advisable how- 
 ever to bale this hay if possible. While it incurs some 
 expense to build this shed, by having successive sowings 
 of peas, it may be filled a dozen times or more during the 
 season. 
 
 Root Knot. 
 
 This crop is very susceptible to root-knot and no va- 
 riety except the Iron pea should be grovni on soil infested 
 with root-knot. 
 
Ikish Potatoes. 121 
 
 lEISH POTATOES. 
 
 This is a crop which is grown extensively in almost all 
 parts of the world; in fact, it is relied upon in a great 
 many countries as their chief food crop. In Great Brit- 
 ain and Ireland, the latter more particularly, it is the 
 main food crop. In the United States it is grown every- 
 where, but is used more extensively in the ISTorth than it is 
 in the South. The crop is grown in the ISTorthern States in 
 late summer, and is stored away for winter use. The 
 old crop remains on the market frequently as late as the 
 middle of May, Sometimes the hulk of it disappears 
 earlier hut the supply of old potatoes always has a per- 
 ceptible effect on prices of the new crop from the South. 
 The size of the crop of old potatoes has very much to do 
 in effecting the price of Southern grown stock and truck- 
 ers may be guided to some extent in their calculations for 
 planting by the government crop report on potatoes, 
 which can be safely consulted in October 1st bulletin, or 
 Crop Keporter. If the crop of the year preceding the 
 one in which it is contemplated potatoes will be planted, 
 is unusually large, or above normal, it would not be ad- 
 visable to plant potatoes to any large extent. However, 
 if there is a short crop of old potatoes, which can be as- 
 certained from the Crop Eeporter about the first of Octo- 
 ber, then it is nearly always a safe proposition to plant 
 potatoes. However, ihe price of this crop rarely ever 
 reaches a high market unless it is for the first that appear 
 in the market, for which there is always a limit in de- 
 
122 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 mand. Whenever the fancy trade is supplied and they 
 get to he very plentiful in the market and the price comes 
 down to the level of the working class, a heavy crop of 
 potatoes coming into competition with an unusually large 
 crop of old potatoes, necessarily hrings the price very low 
 on both. 
 
 Varieties. 
 
 As in the case with all other plants, the question of va- 
 rieties is a very important one to consider. 
 
 For Southern planting, the Rose has always had the 
 preference. Spalding's Rose l^o. 4 is decidely the most 
 popular potato to-day in this section. Bliss' Red is an 
 early potato, some ten days earlier than Spalding's Rose, 
 but is very susceptible to blight, and imless seed can be 
 obtained that is free from blight and planted on land 
 that is practically free from blight, it is not advisable to 
 plant this variety. 
 
 There are other early varieties that are preferred per- 
 haps in some localities, but I think there are very few that 
 will equal Spalding's Rose. 
 
 Planting in the latitude of South Florida should begin 
 about January 15th. In the lower section of other Gulf 
 States about February 1st would be full early. 
 
 Cutting the potato is a question on which there has been 
 much diversity of opinion. The universal experience of 
 planters, however, seems to be settled that potatoes' should 
 be planted fresh cut. Some experiments have been made 
 drying the potato after it has been cut, and some with lin- 
 ing, but from my own experience and observation it is de- 
 
124 Teuok Geowing in the South. 
 
 sirable to plant the potato fresh cut, rather than a day or 
 two after they have been cut. 
 
 No specific rule can be given for cutting potatoes. 
 Large potatoes, however, are usually cut with one eye, and 
 small ones contain several eyes. 
 
 Soil. 
 
 It is important in planting this crop that the proper 
 kind of soil should be selected. By all means a sufficient 
 amount of moisture should be had. Potatoes are partial 
 to damp, heavy soils, with an abundance of vegetable mat- 
 ter and moisture, and without irrigation this class of soil 
 must be had. However, where irrigation is used, what 
 we call high land, may be used successfully in planting 
 potatoes, but never a light, sandy soil. If low land is 
 used and is not properly dried or drained, the land should 
 be plowed into beds before the planting is done. If the 
 land is to be bedded, fertilizer should be sown broadcast 
 at the rate of fifteen hundred (1,500) pounds per acre, 
 and then plowed into beds with turning plow. Then open 
 a light furrow on top with a scooter plow and drop the 
 potatoes about fifteen inches apart, making the rows three 
 (3) feet wide; then cover lightly with hoe, not over one 
 inch deep. Where irrigation is used on higher land, the 
 ground should be well broken and laid off in rows two and 
 one-half (2^) feet apart with scooter plow; then sow 
 in the furrow, fifteen to two thousand pounds of good 
 commercial fertilizer. When planting is to be done nm 
 in these furrows again with eight-inch shovel plow. This 
 throws most of the fertilizer out of the furrow, but covers 
 it at the same time. Then drop the potato about the same 
 
Ikish Potatoes. 125 
 
 distance as' recommended on low land and cover with a 
 hoe about one (1) inch deep. Some may object to the 
 extra expense of covering with hoe, but as this expense is 
 very light and it insures the potatoes being planted at the 
 proper depth, one is justifiable in going to some little ex- 
 tra expense. 
 
 This crop requires a little more potash than most vege- 
 tables. A fertilizer running ammonia 5 per cent., phos- 
 phoric acid 6 per cent., actual potash 8 per cent., is about 
 right. The potato is a tender plant and will not stand a 
 lower temperature than 32. However if they are killed 
 down when just up they will recover and make a good 
 yield. 
 
 The great object of light covering is to insure a good 
 stand in case of cold or wet weather, and one rarely ever 
 fails to get good results when potatoes are planted by this 
 method. 
 
 Ctjltivatign. 
 
 Just as the potatoes begin to appear through the ground, 
 the land should be gone over with a sweep or cultivator 
 and the furrows filled up and the ground left in a level 
 condition. This answers two purposes ; a cultivation is' 
 made, as weeds and grass generally appear with the pota- 
 toes, and at the same time the potatoes are covered to a 
 greater depth, which postpones the danger of being killed 
 by frost for a week or ten days longer besides if they are 
 hurt by frost after being covered in this manner, they will 
 recuperate more rapidly on account of being covered to a 
 greater depth. 
 
 After the potatoes have grown to be about eight (8) 
 inches high, by which time another crop of weeds will 
 
fllH 
 
 
 p# 
 
 ^'^/'^^H^F'^P^H^^^HHHH 
 
 Tp 
 
 Li 
 
 ^k\ " :.im 
 
 Lj^y|^P^^l 
 
 O 
 
 ^^^^^k *■ ^"^ -"^H 
 
 NH^K^K 
 
 Cd 
 
 "S^' 
 
 i '^9|^^B 
 
 >] 
 
 ^i 
 
 ^ *tJ^ml> 
 
 < 
 
 C^ 
 
 towp.^ 
 
 13 
 
 s 
 
 
 K) 
 
 !■ 
 
 
 u 
 
 QQ 
 
 OQ 
 O 
 
 o 
 
 10 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 ... -HiiiliHi^fli 
 
 ii 
 
IkISH PoTATOJiS. 127 
 
 have appeared, then take the sweep and raise the furrow 
 sufSciently to cover any small grass or weeds that may 
 appear in the row. This method of planting and cultiva- 
 ting does away with any necessity for hoeing, and is to be 
 recommended on that account. However, its great ad- 
 vantage is in planting the potatoes at shallow depth and in 
 the insurance of a good stand under any condition. 
 Haevesting. 
 
 After the potatoes have attained their growth and the 
 vines have become somewhat yellow, it is then time to har- 
 vest. A further test of the potatoes might also be made 
 by digging a few potatoes, and if the skin does not slip 
 easily, it is an indication that the potatoes are matured 
 and ready to dig. 
 
 Where they are planted or sufficient scale to justify the 
 expense, one is advisable in buying an improved two-horse 
 potato digger, or it would be economical for several of the 
 neighbors to club together and buy one of these instru- 
 ments, as the work is done much more cheaply and satis- 
 factorily. 
 
 The potatoes after having been dug are allow^ed to re- 
 main in the sunshine just long enough to dry off what soil 
 clings to the potato; then they are taken up and graded 
 and packed in a barrel made for the purpose. Those run- 
 ning two and one-half (2I/2) inches and upwards in diam- 
 eter, which have not been cut in digging and are free from 
 scab, are to be classed as I^o. I's. The smaller potatoes, 
 provided they are sufficiently large for table use, are to be 
 graded to themselves and classed as ISTo. 2's. The bal- 
 ance of the crop may be kept for fall planting, bein^ 
 stored away in some cool place and used in the fall. 
 
128 Tkuck Gkowing in the South. 
 
 COLLAEDS. 
 
 Wliile this crop is never grown for shipment, it is prof- 
 itably grown in a small way for local use, and for home 
 consumption. In the lower South where salads are scarce 
 in summer, the collard will be found handy in the home 
 garden. It is easily grown. It should be planted 5 by 2, 
 and when about to go to seed, the heads should be cut out 
 and the sprouts will be found very palatable if kept in a 
 thrifty condition. 
 
 SPII^ACH. 
 
 In the ISTorth this' plant is growing extensively for salad, 
 but it is just becoming known in the South at present. It 
 can hardly be recommended to Southern gardeners for 
 shipment, on account of the limited demand in the South, 
 and distance from ITorthern markets. Still an effort 
 should be made to introduce it in the South, as it is a de- 
 licious salad, and very healthful on the account of the 
 presence of iron. It is hardy, surviving a temperature of 
 20, and may be grown in the South as a winter crop. 
 Plant in October and ]N"ovember in rows two feet apart, 
 and thin to eight to ten inches in the drill. Rich soil is re- 
 quired for this crop. The curled Savoy and Pound Leaf 
 are good varieties. 
 
Irish Potatoes. 129 
 
 HOW TO PREPAEE FOR, PLANT AND CULTI- 
 VATE FALL IRISH POTATOES. 
 
 By Loeing Brown. 
 
 The most suitable place to plant fall potatoes is after 
 grain when it has been cut off in June. Thoroughly break 
 the land with a two to four inch scooter, using a right-hand 
 Johnston Wing set up high so as not to turn the stubble. 
 The stubble should be thoroughly torn apart but not turned 
 under. After breaking, run a harrow (either a tooth or 
 cut-a-way) over the sod, and either use a roller or drag 
 behind the hairrow, making a good seed bed. This should 
 be done early in June, just after the grain is taken off of 
 the land, so as to allow the land to work back together and 
 fill with moisture before planting. By working the stub- 
 ble to the top it will answer as a mulch and preserve the 
 moisture that has been stored in the soil during the winter, 
 which is very important for a large yield of potatoes'. 
 Any time after the fiirst of July is the proper time for 
 planting in Middle Georgia.. When ready for planting 
 use a three or four-inch scooter with two Johnston Wings 
 on the guano distributor to lay the rows off with, two one- 
 half to three feet apart. Put in at least six hundred to 
 one thousand pounds of 10-2-2 guano in the drill and stir 
 it thoroughly with a two-inch scooter in the open furrow. 
 
 Cut a medium size potato into four paints and a large 
 size one into six parts. Have at least two good eyes on 
 each tuber which will insure a strong, stocky plant. z\. 
 
130 Truck Grow i kg in the South. 
 
 small piece of the tuber will produce a straight spindling 
 plant which will not make many potatoes. These potatoes 
 should be cut a few at the time, just enough to plant imme- 
 diately behind the freshly opened furrows. A handful 
 of air-slack lime should be sifted over each bucket of cut 
 tubers. This will heal th'e cut and keep it from bleeding 
 and losing its strength. They should be dropped from 
 fourteen to sixteen inches apart with the eye down, step- 
 ping lightly on each tuber to press it next to the moist 
 dirt. This will enable the tuber to start germination at 
 once, as it unites with the moisture. If turned with the 
 eye up it will not germinate until a sufficient rain has 
 packed the dirt closely around the eye. Summer or fall 
 planted potatoes should be^ turned with the eye down next 
 to the cool moist dirt, but a spring planted potato should 
 be turned with the eye up so as to get the warmth — just 
 opposite from the late summer and fall planted potatoes. 
 After dropping the potatoes they should be covered up im- 
 mediately with four to six inches of dirt. If the weather 
 is very dry and hot it is a good idea to run a roller or drag 
 over the land to hold the moisture in the soil. Examine 
 the potatoes every few days and if you find they are germ- 
 inating promptly run a weeder or harrow over them twice 
 by the time they begin to come through the ground, and 
 as soon as they are large enough give them a good plough- 
 ing with a Planet Junior Cultivator, using tliree-quarter 
 or one-inch feet on same or a very small scooter on any or- 
 dinary Hayman Stock with Fender, and run it next to the 
 potato, close up. Thoroughly hoe them with a potato fork 
 immediately after this ploughing. Then take your guano 
 distributor and put at least one thousand pounds of sixteen 
 
Fall Irish Potatoes. 131 
 
 per cent, acid to the acre, around each side of the row. 
 Cover this with a scrape and scooter, or better, with a 
 Planet Junior, using a small scooter on all feet for this 
 purpose. With two more ploughings (either with the 
 Planet Junior or the scrape and scooter) the potatoes will 
 be sufficiently worked. They should be laid by almost on 
 a level and not ridged up like spring potatoes. They will 
 mature thoroughly in ninety days, ordinarily. Work 
 them fast and lay by early. After the first killing frost 
 they should be dug and not allowed to remain in the 
 ground until after a hard freeze. 
 
 I find the best way to dig them is to get several hands 
 with straight spading forks in the field and let them spade 
 up all they can from early morning until noon on a pretty 
 day. This will allow them to dry out and very few pota- 
 toes will bei left in the ground. In the afternoon I start 
 the hands to picking up the potatoes in bushel baskets. 
 They can be put in barrels in a cellar, or it is preferred 
 to put them on shelves one foot deep, placed one above the 
 other and slatted so air can circulate throng hthem, in an 
 ordinary house, a barn or a cellar is preferred. In this 
 way they will keep until June of the following year with- 
 out sprouting very much. If exposed too much in very cold 
 weather cover up with straw removing it in early spring to 
 give air. In May or June, if they begin to sprout too 
 much, it is a good idea to give them air and light, which 
 will check the sprouting. To secure a perfect stand of po- 
 tatoes and have them thrive and do well, the potatoes 
 should be full of moisture and not shriveled up. Most 
 people have them planted in this shriveled stage, and that 
 is one of the main reasons why they do not get a good 
 
132 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 stand. If the Lookout Mountain Irish potatoes which aje 
 a strictly fall potato are planted and treated strictly ac- 
 cording to these directions there is no trouble in making 
 from two hundred to three hundred bushels of potatoes af- 
 ter wheat or oat crop on good ordinary land and they will 
 harvest in plenty time to put another grain crop on the 
 same land. The late planting will never be bothered with 
 potatoe bugs. You can afford to fertilize both crops extra 
 heavy because the fertilizer that is not available for one 
 crop is there mixed with the soil and will be utilized by 
 the other and nothing will be lost. I have practiced this 
 method and it has improved both crops every year for ten 
 yeairs. Nothing will pay better on an average farm than 
 Appier oats and Lookout Mountain Fall Irish potatoes. 
 You can easily get $1.00 per bushel in the fall for all of 
 the Appier seed oats a man can raise, and seventy-five to 
 one hundred bushels can be expected per acre. The Irish 
 potatoes will always sell at $2.00 to $2.50 per bushel per 
 bushel by keeping them until June or July. This will en- 
 able you to have a crop to sell each six months off of the 
 same land. I harvested two hundred and fifty bushels 
 on one acre, which I have sold at $2.00 and $2.50 per 
 bushel, and I made one hundred and four bushels of oats 
 on the same acre, which I sold at $1.00 per bushel, making 
 at least $600 altogether on one acre of good ISTorth Georgia 
 land the past fall. Two years ago I harvested over fifteen 
 hundred bushels of these potatoes, and the year before that 
 I harvested about one thousand bushels. I have never yet 
 seen the time when I could supply my demand for seed. 
 Give them a thorough trial and nothing will pay the 
 
Fall Ieish Potatoes. 
 
 133 
 
 Southern farmers better or find a moire ready sale. Thou- 
 sands of dollars are sent out of Georgia every year for 
 Western grown potatoes, and we should keep every cent of 
 it here. 
 
 Belmont Farm, Smyrna, Ga. 
 
 Sugar Coen and Eaely Black Grain. 
 
134 Trl'Ok Growing in the South. 
 
 WIIS'TER CABBAGE AND HOW TO GROW THEM. 
 By Tom R. Zachaky. 
 
 We promised to write an article on vairieties of winter 
 eabbagt^ for your May 15tli issue but failed to get np copy 
 in time for publication. 
 
 Eirst, we will tell the readers' of the Cultivator some- 
 thing about the merits and history of the North Carolina 
 Buncombe cabbage. 
 
 In the year 1832, our grandfather, John A. Zachary, 
 moved from Sunry County, N. C*., to this valley, known 
 then and since as Cashiers Valley, cutting his way through 
 the wilderness into the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains. 
 He brought with him a few spoonfuls of his favorite cab- 
 bage seed, having used them for many j^ears previous', 
 since that time his variety of cabbage has been grown and 
 kept up by the Zacharys and other people of the Blue 
 Ridge section. For many years this variety of cabbage 
 had no name. 
 
 As late as 1850 the mountaineers of this section hauled 
 chestnuts, venison, hams', apples and cabbage to Augusta, 
 Ga., a distance of 200 miles or more ; (that being the near- 
 est railroad point at that time) ; and exchanged their pro- 
 duce for such "luxuries" as Liverpool salt, brown sugar, 
 coffee, and for bunch thread used by our mothers who wove 
 the breeches in those days and may have worn them too, as 
 some of them are in the habit of doing until this day in 
 some parts of the country. 
 
 Alexander Zachairy, the writer's father, in making thos? 
 annual trips to market, always carried a few pounds of 
 
How TO Grow Winter Cabbage. 135 
 
 our native cabbage seed with liim for the purpose of ex- 
 ehauging for corn and fodder, and sometimes exchanging 
 a tablespoonful of seed for 10 cents. 
 
 'Way back in the thirties, and even later, a large portion 
 of western North Carolina was known as Buncomho 
 county, nicknamed "the State of Buncombe." Later be- 
 ing ireduced to different counties, the Buncombe county of 
 to-day ejnbraces a very small part of her original territory. 
 
 The people along the Augusta road, thinking that every- 
 body from ISTorth Carolina came from the State of Bun- 
 combe, very naturally called the seeds purchased from 
 wagons "Buncombe Cabbage Seed." 
 
 And now, gentle ircader, you know about as well what 
 the Buncombe cabbage is as the "wooden nutmeg men" 
 know when they put some cabbage seed in a paper and 
 sell them as jSTorth Carolina Buncombe cabbage seed. 
 
 The original of this strain of cabbage belongs to the 
 Drumhead family, is of a round shape, and somewhat of an 
 irregular header. Its good keeping qualities are kept up 
 by careful selection of heads for seeding purposes, being- 
 grown at an altitude of nearly four thousand feet above 
 sea level, and hybridizing with a certain old-time strain of 
 cabbage about every ten years'. 
 
 The Buncombe is used in the Cotton States for all sorts 
 of purposes, but is mostly sown in June and July for fall 
 and winter use. We don't recommend the Buncombe for 
 territory north of the Mason and Dixon line, for the rea- 
 son that they are peculiarly adapted only to the Southern 
 climate; and w^hen gu'own too far North, degenerate and 
 become unreliable keepers, just as most Northern strains 
 become poor keepers in the Southland. 
 
136 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 The subject of sowing seeds covers so large a field that 
 it is impossible to crowd it all into one short article. What 
 we want to say just now is' intended for the benefit of those 
 who are contemplating sowing cabbage for the fall or win- 
 ter use. 
 
 We^ often get letters from people asking when and how 
 to sow a certain kind of cabbage seed. To answer such in- 
 quiry intelligently, we must know three things : Jst. la 
 what degree of latitude seed are to be sown ; 2nd. Height 
 above sea level ; 3rd. Where were the seeds grown. There 
 is no one rule or set of rules governing the time for sowing 
 late cabbage that will apply in common to the different 
 sections of the South. 
 
 About the only solution of this problem is for every 
 farmer to watch for one season the growth of his late or 
 winter cabbage, and be governed afterwards in sowing the 
 same kind of cabbage for the information gained through 
 his observation. 
 
 It usually requires about six weeks after seed are sown 
 for plants to get into condition best suited for transplant- 
 ing, and from two to three months more for the maturing 
 of the different strains of late cabbage. Latitude in which 
 seed are grown has much to do with the time necessary 
 for the cabbage to head. The farther North the seed are 
 grown, the quicker maturity takes place ; and like the 
 peach, the quicker to mature the sooner they will rot. 
 
 The seeds you grow yourself from late cabbage, or those 
 grown along the Blue Ridge in IS^orth Carolina and Geor- 
 gia are the seed we recommend for late keepers for the 
 readers of the Cxjltivator in general. This class of cab- 
 bage may be sown as late as September along the sea coast. 
 
How TO Grow Winter Cabbage. 137 
 
 while foir winter transplanting, thev should be sown in Oc- 
 tober or early part of November and transplanted from 
 December to March. 
 
 The best way to sow seeds, is to burn a brush pile or a 
 lot of trash on new ground or sow in a place where the 
 ground is fairly good The soil should be well pulverized. 
 See that the plant bed is kept damp until the seed come up. 
 From the time the seed are sown until the plants start 
 growing the bed should be protected from the direct rays 
 of the sun. An arbor, five or six feet above the bed, serves 
 this purpose best. ISTever put stable manure in your seed 
 bed. If your plant bed is too rich, you get fewer plants, 
 and they are more likely to fall victim to "sore shank" and 
 other ruinous diseases which often rob the farmer of late 
 cabbage. 
 
 Cashiers, IST. C. 
 
 Asparagus is a Crop that Pays Well 
 IN Most Sections. 
 
138 Truck Gkowing in the South. 
 
 HOW WE RAISED A CROP OE TURNIPS. 
 By J. B. HuNNicuTT. 
 
 Some years ago when we were just beginning* to learn 
 to farm better we had a rather singular experience. 
 Eleven weeks of drouth had cut off the corn crop. How 
 we should manage to farm next year without this corn was 
 a serious question. We decided to try an experiment. 
 We did not believe in buying corn on credit. ISTo man 
 can farm successfully that way. It was too late to plant 
 corn. We had not learned to use many of the substitutes 
 now used for corn, so we tried turnips. 
 
 We had never seen turnips grown for this purpose. But 
 we had five acres of very thin land, the top of the hill some- 
 what washed. Erom this we had cut a crop of grain. We 
 took our big plows and broke this twelve to thirteen inches 
 deep. The clay was very dry and the sub-soiling very 
 hard to do. We then harrowed and plowed and harrowed 
 again and again. AVe do not know how many times we 
 went over; but we luade the soil so fine and so deep that 
 the plow hands took off their shoes and put them in the 
 fence corner because they sank over the shoe tops. 
 
 HOW INIANURED ANIJ PLANTED. 
 
 We used stable an<l lot manures broadcast and har- 
 rowed in. Then we put fertilizers in the drills as we 
 bedded. We harrowed the tops of these beds until it Avas 
 fine. We never saw so much dust. The horses and 
 bnnds were covered with it. Then Ave opened the small 
 
How We Kaised a Crop of TuKNiPis. 139 
 
 furrow with the plow foot without any hoe on. We 
 sowed the seed covered with a small tooth harrow and 
 rolled with a piece of log fixed behind the harrow. Up 
 to this time there had been no rain. Our neighbors 
 laughed at us for sowing in so much dust ; but we trusted 
 in Providence and did the best we could. The farmer 
 can always afford to do this. 
 
 THE KESULT, 
 
 The rain came, the turnips came up and grew off. We 
 worked them promptly. And such turnips we have never 
 seen grown on poor land. We fed our mules and horses 
 on these turnips, for we found that all stock do well on ruta- 
 bagas. We sold those turnips to our neighbors who had 
 laughed at us ; we fed our family from that turnip crop 
 and we shipped carloads of them to Atlanta. 
 
 We instructed our commission merchant to sell them 
 and invest the net proceeds in corn and ship to us. The 
 turnips kept going and the corn kept coming. We had 
 more than corn enough to make the next crop. 
 
 The full value of that turnip crop we have not counted 
 up exactly. The railroads at that time got a full share 
 for freight, about three- times as much as they now charge. 
 That turnip crop saved our farming that year from being 
 a losing business and made it a profitable one. 
 
 So now we advise you to prepare a turnip patch and 
 raise turnips. Thei yellow fleshed varieties are the best 
 for stock. Sow anywhere from July 20th to September 
 1st. 
 
 Making the dust was the main point in our experiment. 
 Turnips rejoice in a finely pulverized soil. Be sure to 
 
140 
 
 Teuck Growing in the South. 
 
 use some kind of roller. A keg or barrel will do good 
 work. Be sure to hoe them to a stand promptly. This is 
 a very important point. Grow turnips. If you can not 
 sell them you can feed them. 
 Atlanta, Ga., 1904. 
 
 Old-Time Market Scene. 
 
Watermelon Cultueb. 141 
 
 WATERMELON CULTURE. 
 By W. B. Rodbebehy. 
 
 Well drained land should be selected. If early ship- 
 ment is desired a hillside with southern exposure is bet- 
 ter. I prefer land that is' rather sandy, although our 
 stiffest lands in this section produces watermelons to good 
 advantage. 
 
 The land should be broken broadcast as deep as possi- 
 ble, then check with small plow ten feet each way. Open 
 the center furrow with small two-horse middle buster or 
 largest round shovel that one horse can pull. 
 
 Apply 500 pounds of guano per acre as per following 
 analysis : 
 
 9 per cent, phosphoric acid. 
 3 per cent, nitrogen. 
 5 per cent, potash. 
 
 In applying this fertilizer put one-third in the center 
 furrow mentioned above, distributing it in the furrow ex- 
 tending about two feet each way from the check making 
 the guano cover a space of about four feet in this furrow. 
 List on this with two one-horse turn-plow furrows putting 
 one-third of the 500 pounds in each of the two list-fur- 
 rows letting some of the guano scatter on top of the list. 
 This will make the guano cover the space of about IS 
 inches to two feet wide and four feet long at the check. 
 Then burst this list or bed open with a five or six-inch 
 long shovel or any other plow that will thoroughly mix 
 the soil with the guano that has been applied. This will 
 leave the land on a level. 
 
142 Teuck Geowikg i]v the South. 
 
 Then bed up high with two-horse turn plow two or four 
 furrows making a good high bed, not very wide, two fur- 
 rows being preferred by some, rather than four furrows 
 on which to plant. The bed is now ready for planting. 
 
 In this section we begin planting as early as we are 
 reasonably safe from frost, beginning about the first to 
 the 10th of March. As there is always more or less dan- 
 ger of frost until after April 1st in this section. I make 
 three plantings of seed, one every ten days beginning from 
 the 1st of March to the 10th of March. This usually in- 
 sures a stand even if we have frost as late as April 1st, as 
 the last planting is in the ground at that time. 
 
 I plant from three to five seed at the time. The first 
 planting is right on the check, the next planting being to 
 one side and the third planting to the other side of the 
 check. I use a hoe in planting, knocking the bed down 
 well to the moist soil. 
 
 I plant very shallow, covering not over three-quarter- 
 inch, being, careful to place moist dirt on top of the seed 
 and to press this dirt with the hoe. The mark made well 
 with the hoe will indicate where each planting is made so 
 that in making two or three plantings there is no danger 
 of interfering with seed previously planted, although they 
 may have not yet come up. 
 
 I am sure that much of the complaint that is common 
 every year as to bad stands is due to the fact that the seed 
 are planted too deep in the ground. We usually have 
 some packing rains during March and the gTOund is cold, 
 therefore seed can not come up unless planted shallow. 
 
 As soon as the seed are out of the ground the soil around 
 the young plants should be stirred so as to let the sunshine 
 
Watermelon Culture. 143 
 
 and air in. Melon plants will get the third leaf quicker 
 if woirked as soon as they come up. When a good stand 
 is secured I put two more two-horse^ furrows on the bed 
 throwing the dirt as near the top of the bed as possible not 
 to cover up the young plants. 
 
 I next plow the melons, usually with a sweep, thus 
 cleaning the drill and filling up the two-horse furrow that 
 has been left open. I then bed out the middles with 'd 
 two-horse plow throwing as much dirt to the melon row 
 as possible. 
 
 I find that it is best to have the melons on a high ridge 
 such as can be made with two-horse plow as our greatest 
 trouble in the cultivation of melons is usually sobbing of 
 the land and scalding of the vines by continued rains that 
 we usually have while the melons are bearing; therefore, 
 the bed should be well drained into deep middles. If a 
 two-horse plow is not available I would advise plowing 
 out the middles two times with one-horse plow throwing 
 the dirt to the melon row both times. 
 
 As soon as the young plants begin bunching, to run, I 
 thin to one plant in the hill and cultivate often with 
 sweeps keeping just ahead of the vines', not disturbing the 
 vines by turning them, except up to the time they are 
 three feet long. I find it advisable to lay the vines length- 
 wise on the drill and plow up close, but after the vines 
 get old enough to begin blooming and forming young mel- 
 ons they should not be turned or disturbed ; by depressing 
 the handles of the plow, the wings of the sweeps will pass 
 under the ends of the longest vines without injury to them. 
 
 Continuing to plow wit hsweeps just ahead of the vines 
 until they are lapping in the middle and then plow no 
 
Second Harvest Melons Prom Pecan Grove. 
 
Watermelon Cultuee. 145 
 
 more. I find it profitable to pull off all young melons in 
 excess of two or three to the vine up to the time that these 
 two or three melons are nearly grown. In pruning of 
 course all ill-shaped melons' or lop-sided melons should be 
 clipped off in every instance even if none are left on the 
 vines. This applies to round melons as we have mainly 
 lop-sided melons of this variety. 
 
 All long melons that have long necks like a gourd should 
 be pulled off as such melons never pay to ship and I be- 
 lieve the industry suffers' every year by the fact that some 
 farmers will persist in loading such melous. 
 
 The yield of one good melon per vine is about an aver- 
 age crop and will make about one carload of melons to ev- 
 ery two acres. Occasionally we get a yield of a car per 
 acre which is about two melons per vine depending of 
 course upon the size of the melons ; however, it is very rare 
 that the yield is this good. 
 
 The trade now demands cars containing about 30,000 
 pounds of melons and of round melons a good average 
 size is about 30 pounds each for Kolb Gems and 35 pounds 
 each for Triumphs' or round blues. 
 
 Of the long varieties a good average size is 25 pounds 
 for Rattle Snakes and 30 pounds for Watsons. This lat- 
 ter variety is a long blue melon and is at this time a 
 most popular shipping variety, being a most excellent "cut- 
 ter" as' the round varieties are not such good "cutters." 
 The term "cutter" applies to the quality of the melon for 
 eating. 
 
 Oue of the most important things in shipping melons is 
 the proper handling and loading of the melons into the 
 
146 Truck Geowikg in the South. 
 
 cars. The melons should be thoroughly ripe through and 
 through, uot pink, but red ready to eat. 
 
 The old idea that watermelons will ripen some after be- 
 ing clipped from the vines has long since been proven to 
 be a fallacy. Melons must be good to eat when shipped if 
 they are good to eat at destination. 
 
 The industry suffers more from shipping green melons 
 than any other thing. If every car could be guaranteed to 
 be perfectly ripe when shipped, I believe that the. average 
 price on our melons in Greorgia would be advanced $10.00 
 per car ; but dealers have learned from sad experience that 
 the risk of loss from green melons is very great, therefore, 
 they hedge against this probable loss by shading the price 
 from $5.00 to $20:00 per car. 
 
 This loss is sustained by the grower and is caused by 
 the selfish, penny-wise, pound-foolish farmer who clips his 
 melons too green in order to rush them on the market 
 ahead of his neighbor, hoping thereby to secure a fancy 
 price. 
 
 Melons should not be pitched into cars like they were 
 basballs but should be handled tenderly into the wagons in 
 the fields and we should be just as careful in handling 
 them into the car. I have seen many a melon buyer turn 
 away in disgust from a car of melons that were being 
 handled like pig-iron by the owner or packer because this 
 kiyer kne-w that if a melon is bruised as it is put into the 
 car or the heart broken loose from the side perhaps, that 
 this melon would be worthless at its final destination a 
 week later. 
 
 The loss from rotten melons each year is largely caused 
 by the rough handling of the loaders. The melons should 
 
Watermelon Culture. 147 
 
 be packed into the car in smootJi, snug layers so that they 
 will not shift or roll about, and should be four or five lay- 
 ers deep, which is the usual method according to the size ; 
 if the melons' are 30 pounds or larger, four layers in 36- 
 foot cars will make a car load; if the melons are small or 
 the cars short five layers should be put in the door-way. 
 
 All cars should be heavily bedded with straw or hay 
 and in packing the melons a handfull of straw should be 
 placed between each melon and the side and end of the 
 car. This of course only applies to the outside tiers. 
 Cars that are well ventilated should be selected, especially 
 should cars have vents in the end at the bottom and all 
 shippers should be careful to see that the bottom vents are 
 open and that the doors are well ventilated. 
 
 The door-ways in the cars should be boarded iTp as high 
 as the melons are- packed leaving cracks between these 
 boards so as not to interfere with the circulation of the air 
 through the ventilator doors. 
 
 No melons should be loaded in cars that have contained 
 bulk acid phosphate, lime or salt unless such cars are well 
 lined with heavy furniture or carpet paper so as to pre- 
 vent the melons from coming in contact with lime, salt or 
 phosphate. Unless the precautions are adhered to the 
 melons are apt to prove a total loss as they will rot fear- 
 fully under such conditions. 
 
 I had 38 acres in Triumph melons this year and I 
 shipped 19 cars ; about half these cars were loaded with 
 melons that averaged 45 pounds each and the other half 
 averaged from 30' to 35 pounds each. I could have shipped 
 five or six more cars of melons that would have averaged 
 25 pounds but the market was' in such shape that it would 
 
148 Teuck Growing in the South. 
 
 not pay me to load these small melons, I therefore fed 
 them to my hogs and they are worth growing for this pur- 
 pose alone provided you have the hogs to feed them to. 
 
 I received from the 19 cars, $1,960.00 f. o. b. cars at 
 loading point. 
 
 These melons cost me approximately $700.00 loaded on 
 the cars. Melons can he grown in this section under pres- 
 ent cost of labor for $10.00 to $12.00 per acre not includ- 
 ing hauling and loading. 
 
 I had to haul my melons about two miles and it cost me 
 about $15.00 per car to clip, haul and load the melons into 
 the car, valuing my teams at $2.50 per day for driver and 
 team. 
 
 Now to conclude, I think the best advice that I can give 
 to the prospective grower of melons is to be sure to accept 
 any reasonable offer for melons f. o. b. cars at loading 
 point rather than to ship them on consignment. 
 
 I have been growing and shipping melons for 20 years 
 and I have observed the experience of other people and" I 
 have seen a good deal of money made by the farmers of 
 this section when they sell the melons and get the money 
 before the melons leave and I have seen a great many peo- 
 ple lose money heavily on melons by shipping them on 
 commission. 
 
 Cairo, Ga. 
 
COLLAKDS. 149 
 
 COLLARDS. 
 By Chakles Decknee. 
 The Georgia or Southern collard for the past ten years 
 has taken a prominent place with the truck farmer so that 
 perhaps several hundred acres now are grown for the At- 
 lanta market. While it has been a leading vegetable in 
 the Southern home garden for a century or more yet up to 
 ten years ago it was not offered to the trade. It is said 
 that it originated from the regular cabbage and that col- 
 lards are nothing more than degenerated cabbage, as it 
 is evident that cabbage seed grown in the South sucees 
 sively will lose its heading propensity and become coUards. 
 But this may be as it will, the fact remains that the col- 
 lard is sought on our Southern table during winter to take 
 the place of cabbage and is preferred by a majority to that 
 of cabbage and being hardier to stand winter than the lat- 
 ter its cultivation is more desirable. To grow collards 
 forty years ago the family vegetable garden was the only 
 place where it could be found and to-day hundreds of acres' 
 are annually planted for the Atlanta market. The old 
 custom to sow the seeds in seed beds in March and trans- 
 plant as soon as large enough and so "summer" the plants 
 over has long been abandoned by our wide-awake truck 
 farmers and now the seed is sown in July and August 
 either in beds and transplanted or else it is drilled right 
 on the field which had been prepared and enriched as' for 
 cabbage, and if the soil contains sufficient moisture to 
 bring them up and give them a good start there will be no 
 further trouble. The land selected for collards is land 
 
150 Tkuck Growing in the South. 
 
 that had been harvested or been in an early ^-egetable cro^J 
 such as' early com, tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, etc. As 
 soon as the former crop is off the field for collards should 
 be enriched with barnyard manure or fertilizer containing 
 high pdrcentage of potash and nitrogen should the land re- 
 quire such fertilization. Where plants are set out allow- 
 ance should be made for eight or ten days which the plants 
 require to establish themselves while those sown on the 
 field will have the advantage besides the difficulty in start- 
 ing plants at this season. Whether set or sown the rows 
 must be three feet apart and as much distance in the row 
 as the vigor of the plants' require, ilf sown they must be 
 thinned which we do by chopping them out with a hoe 
 leaving three or more plants to the hill and as soon as more 
 room is required we thin them by hand leaving one or 
 more plants to the hill. We haven't found any difference 
 in the variety of the soil when fertility and preparation 
 are the same, however we would prefer a southern expos- 
 ure, being a winter crop. If you find that your collards 
 are not growing rapidly enough, and you should desire to 
 force them, put some nitrate of soda around them. From 
 100' to 150 pounds of nitrate of soda will certainly make 
 them grow rapidly, and the more rapid the growth the 
 more tender the collards' and I think better the flavor. 
 There are two reasons in favor of the late planting. One 
 is, you do not breed so many wonus and harlequin bugs to 
 pray upon them, and secondly, the collards are more ten- 
 der and edible. 
 Atlanta, Ga. 
 
Spinach. 151 
 
 SPINACH. 
 
 By Charles Decknee. 
 The spinach belongs to our winter and early spring veg-^ 
 etables. It is a very desirable dish during the winter sea- 
 son when variety is greatly sought. While spinach is not 
 a strictly Southern dish yet its use is annually increased 
 as the taste becomes more and more cultivated. The soil 
 for spinach should be deep and rich, made so by the appli- 
 cation of barnyard manure. The use of commercial ma- 
 nure for spinach could not be recommended unless the 
 land on which it is to grow has been well enriched the pre- 
 vious year wdth barnyard manure or as an addition to an 
 application to barnyard manure. Spinach, especially for 
 market, should be so^ti as early in fall as the weather will 
 permit, commencing about the middle of August. Should, 
 however, the weather be hot and dry at this season, sowing 
 must be deferred until the weather is cool and moist. A 
 succession of sowing until the middle of l^ovember is ad- 
 visable. Spinach will not germinate in too hot weathei- 
 and if it should come up the hot sun will destroy it. 
 Thousands of pounds of spinach seed are annually lost by 
 planting too soon. Drainage is another material point to 
 consider. N^othing will injure spinach as much and fre- 
 quently destroy it as an excess of water. Surface drain- 
 ing can be made to suffice on upland, but if bottom land is 
 not sufficiently under drained so as' to remove the surplus 
 water soon after the heavy winter rains the spinach will 
 
Showing Truck Ceops on Same Land Before and Afteb 
 Tile Drainage. 
 
Spinach. 153 
 
 soon tell laj turning yellow and dying. On upland where 
 the seed has been sown on high beds with sufficient incline 
 to quickly remove surface water the drainage will be suffi- 
 cient. 
 
 So far for fall sowing, but it is equally important that 
 spring sowing should be made. The demand for spring 
 spinach is not as great as that of fall on account of other 
 vegetables taking its place, yet for a season at least there is 
 good demand and the sowing may be commenced from the 
 middle of February till the middle of March. Plant and 
 cultivate the same as for fall sowing. Manuring for spin- 
 ach should be heavy as said above. We put on spinach 
 land from 40 to 50 tons of good barnyard manure per 
 acre. If this be reduced a sufficient amount of commer- 
 cial manure should be added to make up for the reduc- 
 tion. This should analize 5-8-6, that is 5 per cent, 
 ammonia, 8 per cent, available phosphate and 6 per cent, 
 potash. As to varieties, but little can be said as they 
 change so frequently and succeed differently in different 
 soils. But for early fall and late sprring we prefer the 
 "long standing" varieties, which stand more heat and dry 
 weather while the "savoy leaf" varieties perhaps endure 
 more cold, yet the yield is not as great as the former. As 
 to the use of nitrate of soda around spinach, I have used 
 it when it paid me handsomely, and then I have used it 
 when the results were far from satisfactory. It all de- 
 pends upon the condition of your soil and the time of ap- 
 plying. It will pay you well to put some around your 
 spring spinach if the growth is not vigorous enough. 
 
 Atlanta, Ga. 
 
154 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 onio:ns i^ the south. 
 
 By H. G. Hastings. 
 
 The South sends several million dollars a year to the 
 iSrorthern States and foreign countries for onions ; yet the 
 onion as a commercial crop in the South, when properly 
 handled, is the safest and most profitable vegetable crop 
 that can be grown. Texas and Louisiana are the only 
 Southern States where the onion is grown extensively as 
 a market crop, and the Bermuda onion brings from one 
 and a half to two million dollars cash every year into a 
 comparatively limited territory in Texas. 
 
 The culture of onions in the South presents three dis- 
 tinct phases : the growth from fall-sown seed of the Ber- 
 muda varities under irrigation as practiced in southwest 
 Texas ; fall sowing of the Bermuda varieties and the Cre- 
 ole in Florida and all along the Gulf Coast section of Geor- 
 gia, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana and southeast Texas, 
 a strip extending fifty to seventy-five miles back from the 
 coast, the crop being grown with the natural rainfall ; and 
 last, the gTowth of the crop from spring planted seed in 
 the central South. 
 
 Profitable crops of onions can be gro■v^^l almost any- 
 where in this territory but the intending planter must re- 
 member two things in connection with this crop ; first, 
 that the onion is' a heavy feeder and requires either rich 
 or heavily fertilized land ; second, the crop requires very 
 careful cultivation from start to finish. An onion crop, 
 to be successful, must have a much higher grade of treat- 
 ment than the average negro hand gives cotton. Unless 
 
Onions in the South. 155 
 
 the prospective onion grower is willing to give his crop 
 careful attention he had hetter let it alone. Also, it is 
 best for a beginner to start on a small scale, certainly 
 not over an acre, unless you are associated with some one 
 experienced in handling this crop, for no matter how 
 complete directions may be given for gTOwing onions there 
 are often peculiar local soil conditions that must be stud- 
 ied and experimented with and just as valuable experience 
 in growing and handling the crop can be obtained on a 
 small scale as on a larger one and at a great deal less ex- 
 pense. 
 
 O'NTONs IN Texas Under iKRiaATiON. 
 
 The writer has been closely associated with the Ber- 
 muda onion industry of Texas and its start in 1892 or 
 1893 was a small one. Mr. T. C. ISTye, of Laredo, Texas, 
 the pioneer of the industry, in the attempt to find an on- 
 ion that w^ould grow and produce satisfactorily in Texas' 
 had never heard of the Bermuda onion until he got hold 
 of one of our catalogues. He had tried all of the other 
 varieties without success but sent to us for two ounces of 
 the Bermuda seed. He was successful and the following 
 year sent for a pound, and so on until his' neighbors began 
 to take notice and follow in his footsteps and in less than 
 a dozen years an industry shipping some 3,000 carloads 
 was established. 
 
 That portion of Texas is for all practical purposes arid, 
 and all crops are grown with irrigation, the water being 
 pumped mostly from the Rio Grande River, although 
 some fifty miles north of Laredo artesian water is found 
 in abundance. 
 
 The general practice in that section is to thoroughly 
 
156 Teuck Growing iisr the South. 
 
 break the land, usually with disc plows, then harrow down 
 and plant a summer cover crop of cow peas. These are 
 let grow until September , an occasional irrigation be- 
 ing given. Some of the growers' let the ground stand un- 
 cultivated during the summer months but the most suc- 
 cessful growers generally now grow a summer cover crop 
 of cow peas which are turned under, adding humus to 
 the soil. Whenever obtainable stable manure is broad- 
 casted and plowed in, the effects of a single application 
 of manure showing for years afterward. 
 
 Seed is sown in seed beds usually from September 15th 
 to October 1st and let grow until about the size of a slate 
 pencil before transplanting. On seed bed basis, seed is 
 planted at the rate of thirty to thirty-five pounds per acre, 
 one acre of seed bed usually furnishing sufficient number 
 of plants to set ten to twelve acres. 
 
 In the Laredo section the beds are laid out twelve to 
 fifteen feet wide and 100 to 200 feet in length with 
 raised borders to hold the water. The Laredo practice is 
 to flood the beds and with their loose, quickly draining 
 soil this is undoubtedly best but it would be fatal on heavy 
 soils' that drain slowly. 
 
 The seed is planted in dry soil followed immediately by 
 an irrigation, a second one being given in five to seven 
 days. 
 
 Transplanting usually begins about November 15th 
 and is seldom completed on the larger farms until Janu- 
 ary 1st. Rows are laid off every sixteen to eighteen 
 inches' apart, an onion plant being set every five or six 
 inches in the row. In extra rich or highly fertilized 
 soil they can be set as close as four inches — in fact it is 
 
Onions in the South. 157 
 
 best to crowd them a little for extra large onions are not 
 desirable in market. 
 
 The young plants are dug from the seed beds and if no 
 culls are wanted in the crop the smaller and weaker plants 
 are discarded, the object being to get plants of even size 
 and vigor that will make a uniform growth and size. Un- 
 less this sorting of the young plants is done a large num- 
 ber of the onions will be culls, unfit for market and occu- 
 pying ground that could just as well make a marketable 
 bulb. 
 
 After digging and sorting, the plants are trimmed, 
 about one-half of both top and roots being cut off. 
 
 Lines are stretched to indicate the rows' and the holes 
 are made with dibbles, these being followed by the setter 
 who sticks the plant in the hole and firms the earth around 
 it. By this method from 80,000 to 100,000 plants are 
 set per acre. The transplanting is followed by irrigation 
 and as soon as dry enough by surface cultivation with 
 wheel hoes'. In close planting as described all labor must 
 be hand work. !Ro directions can be given as to how often 
 to irrigate. It's one of those things to be done just when 
 needed, neither before or after, and it takes experience 
 to know when it's needed. In the cool winter months one 
 irrigation may last three weeks, later on with warmer 
 weather and the bulbs forming rapidly, once a week is 
 often necessary. 
 
 Onions transplanted by December Is't in Texas usually 
 complete the growth of top between March 1st and 10th, 
 following which the bulbs form. This is indicated by the 
 base of the plant beginning to swell. 
 
 It used to be the practice to draw away the soil from 
 onions as they began to bulb. We are satisfied that this 
 
158 Teuck Geowing in the South. 
 
 is a mistake, especially so with flat varieties like the Ber- 
 muda. If the bulbs remain covered there is just enough 
 pressure from a rightly irrigated soil to thicken them up 
 in more marketable shape than if allowed to spread out 
 on the surface. We have seen them as large as saucers 
 and very thin. This is not desirable, the most saleable 
 size being three to four inches in diameter. 
 
 The maturity of the crop is indicated by the dying of 
 the top beginning at the tip. When dead about half to 
 two-thirds of the way down the crop may be plowed up. 
 After plowing up, the onions should be allowed to stay m 
 the field from one to two days to cure before trimming, 
 but in hot sections like South Texas the bulbs should be 
 protected from sim scalding. If placed right, the dying 
 tops will usually be sufficient protection. As soon as the 
 tops have dried they are clipped off and the onions placed 
 in field crates, these in turn being taken to the packing 
 houses where they are graded and packed in the crates 
 for shipment to market. 
 
 Bermuda onions are rather tender and the more care- 
 fully handled the better condition they will reach market 
 in. Many a crop in Texas has been turned from profit 
 to loss by careless and rough handling in field or packing 
 house. 
 
 Bermuda onions should not be shipped in bags. The 
 most satisfactory packages are the O'wosso and Cummer 
 crates which hold a little over fifty pounds, are strong and 
 at the same time give perfect ventilation. 
 
 There are three varieties of the Bermuda onion, the 
 Crystal Wax, which is a pure slivery white color; the 
 Wliite Bermuda, which is really a light yellow or straw 
 
160 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 color and the Red. The Crystal Wax and the White are 
 the varieties grown for market. 
 
 OjSfiONs IN Florida and the Gulf Coast Section". 
 
 The Bermuda varieties and the Creole onion of Louis- 
 iana are the only safe varieties for this section and all of 
 t.hem should be planted from September 15th to November 
 1st. It is generally customary in Florida and this entire 
 section to plant seed in open ground where the crop is to 
 be grown, thinning out to a stand. Our observation of 
 and experience with this crop covers' some twenty years 
 and every year's observation convinces us that planting in 
 beds and transplanting is the best and most profitable 
 method in spite of the labor involved. The transplanting 
 saves three weedings and the thinning out and where the 
 plants' are sorted it means a full stand of uniform sized 
 and maturing plants, a thing utterly impossible where one 
 sows to a stand. Another point is seed-saving. When 
 sown in beds two and a half to three pounds of seed will 
 usually furnish sufficient vigorous plants for an acre while 
 four to five pounds are necessary to insure a stand with 
 the other method. 
 
 In Florida and the coast section, what are commonly 
 called "hammock" lands are the favorite lands for this 
 crop. Low pine lands along the edges of lakes, creeks' and 
 rivers, lands that stay moist but not wet are admirably 
 adapted to this crop when well fertilized. Some of the 
 best onion crops we have ever seen were produced on what 
 are known as the "marl prairie" lands of the lower East 
 Coast of Florida, lands' bordering the Everglades. The 
 muck lands produce enormous crops but unless well 
 
Onions in the South. 161 
 
 drained and have been under cultivation sufficient length 
 of time to get out all the "sourness" they should not be 
 used for commercial crops of onions. They will make 
 big crops but the onions will be overgrown and of such 
 irregular shape as to be unsaleable. Neither will onions 
 grown on such land keep, but rot shortly after being har- 
 vested. 
 
 In that section the ground should be thoroughly broken 
 up about September 1st and harrowed. All grass, roots, 
 sticks' and trash should be removed. Every ten days or 
 so the piece of onion land should be run over with a har- 
 row or cultivator to kill the weeds and grass that ha* 
 started and not later than two weeks before transplanting 
 from one to two tons of high grade commercial fertilizer 
 should be applied per acre and plowed in lightly. Fertil- 
 izer formulas will be given later. The seed bed can be 
 handled as in the Texas' practice except that irrigation 
 is not needed. On the heavier soils do not cover the seed 
 over one-half inch; in sandy soils three-quarters to one 
 inch of loose soil can be used in covering. Unless planted 
 in showery weather the soil should be firmed or rolled af- 
 ter planting. 
 
 If you are sowing in open ground where the crop is to 
 stand and intensive culture given, the land should be laid 
 off in rows fourteen to sixteen inches apart, with the un- 
 derstanding that all cultivation is to be done with wheel 
 hoes or cultivators. Seed should be drilled in, using four 
 to five pounds of seed per acre. With seasonable weather 
 the seed should germinate in five to eight days and as 
 soon as the rows are well defined, light surface cultiva- 
 tion should begin and be continued frequently until the 
 bulbs are at least half grown. The onion is largely a 
 
162 Teuce: Growing in the South. 
 
 surface feeder and cultivation should only be deep enougli 
 to kill young grass' and weeds and prevent the formation 
 of a crusted surface. When plants are about six inches 
 high the thinning out process should begin — leaving, on 
 average good quality land, one strong plant every four to 
 five inches in the row. "Skips" or missed stand places' 
 will usually be found in the rows and these can be filled 
 from surplus plants from other places. In very rich soil 
 they can be left as close as three inches in the row. The 
 greater part of the growth of this crop is in winter when 
 the weed and grass growth is at a minimum ; at the same 
 time the few weeds that do come should be promptly re- 
 moved. Keep the crop growing as steadily as possible, 
 this being done by the frequent cultivations. An onion 
 crop frequently checked in its growth will invariably 
 make many "thick-necks" or "scallions" and throw up 
 seed heads about time of maturity. 
 
 The first effort of the onion plant is to complete its 
 growth of top. This top growth must be practically com- 
 plete before the bulb begins to form. The beginning of 
 bulbing is indicated by the swelling at the base of the 
 plant. In Florida and along the Gulf this swelling be- 
 gins between March 1st and 15th and the bulb or onion is 
 usually matured in five to six weeks after, the maturity be- 
 ing indicated by the dying tops. 
 
 If you have been working under the system of "sowing 
 to a stand" you will find it impossible to harvest the crop 
 satisfactorily at one time. The weaker plants will hardly 
 mature for two to four weeks after the strongest ones and 
 if plowed up when the first half of the crop is mature 
 there is bound to be a heavy waste. Sowing seed in beds 
 followed by transplanting with sorted plants of uniform 
 
Onions in the South. 163 
 
 size insures uniformity of maturity and size of onions. 
 Mr. Nye, of Laredo, Texas, follows this plan of sorting 
 the young plants to uniform size and it is a rare thing 
 for him to have any "culls" in his crop. 
 
 With a transplanted crop the entire field should be 
 plowed up as soon as well matured. The onions should 
 be picked up and placed in rows in the field if weather 
 is dry and let cure two or three days. Place so that the 
 bulbs will not be exposed to the sun. Sun-burn or sun- 
 scald starts rotting. If weather is showery or damp the 
 onions should be brought under cover and spread thinly 
 on a barn or shed floor, letting the tops remain on until 
 well dried. When ready to pack and ship the tops should 
 be clipped off close to the bulb, sheep shears being prefer- 
 able for the work. Handle carefully so as not to bruise. 
 If the onions are to be marketed locally and in small quan- 
 tities we advise leaving the tops on the bulbs until ready 
 to market, especially so in humid climates like Florida 
 and the Gulf Coast. Clipped onions will often rot in 
 four to six weeks in humid climates while we have seen 
 Bermudas with the top or "straw" left on and spread thin 
 keep until Christmas, the onions being harvested in April. 
 
 Fertilizing and Feetilizees. 
 
 Onions require either a naturally rich soil or heavy 
 fertilizing to make good size. If your soil is not fertile 
 make it so with well-rotted manure or commercial fertiliz- 
 ers. In many onion growing sections manure in sufficient 
 quantity is unobtainable. If this be your ease, commer- 
 cial fertilizers are necessary. If your soil is sandy, or 
 sandy loam, use fertilizer containing 6 per cent, available 
 
164 
 
 Tkuck Gkowing in the South. 
 
 phosphoric acid, 8 to 9 per cent, potash, 5 to 6 per cent, 
 nitrogen. Use a ton of this on land that is considered 
 fertile enough for an ordinary crop ; two tons may be ap- 
 plied on land that has been cropped several years. 
 
 AMOUNTS OF FERTILIZERS. 
 
 'Element. 
 
 Nitrogen 
 
 Potash 
 
 Pounds 
 •per acre 
 
 . 100-200 
 
 .180-360. 
 
 Pounds of different material for one acre. 
 
 ir,no to 3000 lbs. cottonseed meal; or 
 700 to 1400 lbs. nitrate of soda ; or 
 
 1000 to 2000 lbs. dried blood ; or 
 
 1400 to 2800 lbs. guano ; or 
 500 to 1000 lbs. sulphate of ammonia. 
 
 2200 to 4400 lbs. kainit; or 
 300 to 720 lbs. muriate of potash ; or 
 350 to 700 lbs. sulphate of potash ; or 
 700 to 1400 lbs. sulphate of potash and 
 sulphate of magnesia. 
 
 Phos. Acid.. 120-240 
 
 ri2 
 
 \ 10 
 
 200 to 2400 lbs. 
 1000 to 2000 lbs. 
 
 acid phosphate ; or 
 dissolved bone. 
 
 If your soil is stiff, heavy or a red clay, use one con- 
 taining 8 per cent, available phosphoric acid, 5 per cent, 
 potash, and 5 per cent, nitrogen. If you want to make a 
 full crop you should use from 1,000 to 2,000 pounds of 
 high-grade fertilizer per acre. A word of caution, how- 
 ever, about commercial fertilizers. They should always 
 be put in the gTound two or three weeks before the seed is 
 sown. As soon as these fertilizers go in the ground and 
 come in contact with moisture a chemical change begins. 
 While that change is taking place heat is generated which 
 usually continues for some two weeks. If seed comes in 
 contact with the fertilizer while this chemical change is 
 taking place the vitality is "burned out" of the seed and 
 it will not germinate. This is especially true here in the 
 South where cottonseed-meal is so largely used as a source 
 of nitrogen in the fertilizers. Thousands of pounds of 
 seed are "burned up" in this way every year and the 
 
Onions in the South. 165 
 
 planter very often can not understand why he fails to a 
 greater or less extent in getting a stand. 
 
 Onions in the Centeal South. 
 
 There is a generally mistaken idea prevalent that it is 
 impossible to grow profitable crops of onions in the Cen- 
 tral South or cotton belt directly from the seed, most peo- 
 ple having the idea that it is necessary to either plant 
 sets or else to grow the sets from seed sown in the spring 
 then plant out the sets the following fall or spring. As 
 good and profitable crops of onions can be grown in the 
 Central South as any other section providing our people 
 will give this crop the same care and fertilizing that grow- 
 ers in other sections do. We have become so used to a 
 slip-shod method of growing cotton and corn that we can't 
 seem to get down to the high fertilizing and intensive 
 methods necessary to succeed with a staple vegetable crop 
 like onions. 
 
 So far as growing a market crop of onions is concerned 
 forget that there is such a thing as an onion set. Sets are 
 all right in their place^ — the home garden, for a few very 
 early onions, and for the local market gardener to sell 
 bunches, but as a foundation for a market crop of matured 
 bulbs they are a delusion. A set very seldom makes a 
 nice shaped marketable bulb, they are not good keepers 
 and almost invariably show a large per cent, of "thick 
 necks" and scallions. It also takes about ten bushels of 
 sets, to plant an acre and when sets are $2.25 to $2.Y5 per 
 per bushel this almost prohibitive. 
 
 The Bermuda varieties can be successfully grown in 
 the Central South from spring planted seed. Seed plant- 
 
CouNTBY Gentleman Corn. 
 
Onions in the South. 167 
 
 ed in late February will mature full sized onions by July 
 15th. If seed is planted thickly in cold frames or pro- 
 tected beds in December or about January 1st the plants 
 will usually be. ready for transplanting to open ground as 
 early as the soil can be worked in the spring. 
 
 i'or general market purposes however, dependence 
 should be placed in the Prizetaker, the three Globe va- 
 rieties (White, Yellow and Red) and the Australian 
 Brown. This latter has not been as generally successful 
 as the first named although it is the best keeper of all, 
 having kept a full year in perfect condition. 
 
 For best results the ground used for onions should have 
 been under clean culture the year previous. If you ex- 
 pect to grow onions for a crop regularly, set aside a piece 
 of ground and keep it in onions year after year and you 
 will get better results. If kept perfectly clean as it should 
 be the expense of weeding and cultivation will grow less 
 each year. 
 
 Onions ground in this section should be plowed in the 
 fall and let stay in rough state through the winter. 
 Freezing disintegrates the clods. If dry enough plow 
 again thoroughly in spring, then harrow until the soil h 
 as fine as possible. If you have your plants in seed bed 
 do not be in too great hurry to transplant. A harrowing 
 of your ground every week will kill out thousands of 
 young weeds and grass plants that would make trouble 
 later on. In the latitude of Atlanta April 1st is early 
 enough to transplant and this can be done as described in 
 the Texas practice. If you intend to plant seed in the 
 open, follow the practice described for Florida and plant 
 seed latter part of February or first half of March. This 
 matter of date is dependent on season conditions and must 
 
168 Teuck Growing in the South. 
 
 be varied to meet the conditions of each season. The onion 
 piant is semi-hardj and will stand considerable cold. 
 Bermuda varieties will stand about 20 degrees above zero, 
 the others about 15 above without material injury. The 
 tops may be knocked down or even killed but they will 
 come out again. 
 
 The open ground planted seed must have frequent and 
 thorough cultivation else the grass and weeds will take the 
 crop and the onions die down in the "set" stage. If the 
 onions are kept growing rapidly by sufficient cultivation 
 there will be no stopping of growth in the "set" stage. 
 The fact that onions die down so generally at that stage 
 is from lack of sufficient cultivation, and that seems to 
 have been the trouble in the Central South in the past. 
 The grower has let his crop stop growing from lack of 
 sufficient cultivation. 
 
 What has been said about sowing seed in beds, sorting 
 the young plants to uniform size so as to give uniform 
 onions in the crop applies to spring planting in the Central 
 South as well as to fall planting in the other sections. 
 
 With high fertilizing and the best of cultivation, crops 
 of from 400 to 500 bushels per acre are not uncommon, 
 and it is a rare thing for onions to be worth less than $1.00 
 per bushel in the wholesale markets of Atlanta and other 
 Southern cities. It's not a fancy price crop but it's a 
 staple crop at a fairly steady price. If the market is 
 glutted at harvest it's a crop that, if it has been properly 
 gro^^Ti, can be kept for months if necessary. It's the 
 safest vegetable crop that can be grown South, but it's not 
 a crop to play with or that will stand slip-shod, careless 
 treatment. If the prospective planter will give it the at- 
 
ONioisrs IN THE South. 169 
 
 tention it deserves and must have he will find it one of the 
 best of paying crops — otherwise he had best let onions as 
 a crop entirely alone. 
 
 Atlanta, Ga., September, 1910. 
 
170 
 
 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 (U <B 
 
 ■fl — 
 
 ta 
 
 «< 
 
 •^ Tv 
 
 
 j: 
 
 6i^ 
 
 c •- 
 
 
 
 « « 
 
 '^^ 
 
 = & 
 
 j^ (U 
 
 UjJS 
 
 ? OS 
 
 a" 
 
 51 
 
 <u 
 
 
 CM 
 
 6S 
 
 
 
 
 «« 
 
 u bt 
 
 S.S 
 
 
 .2 a 
 
 j: " 
 
 ■" « 
 
 ^■s 
 
 ^e 
 
 
 -Q ^a 
 
 s"^ « 
 
 E « aj 
 
 »2S 
 
 
 
 « a^ 
 
 
 "f^S 
 
 Sii^ 
 
 *! J2x 
 
 ii^§ 
 
 c 5 
 
 
 ■3 C M 
 
 
 o'S« 
 
 >?--^>. 
 
 |.s§ 
 
 ^-a 
 
 
 « Ot3 
 
 u ii 
 
 *"0 « 
 
 ii w 
 
 
 •agS 
 
 t^OSlS 
 
 ;/5 t> u 
 
 ass 
 
 11T3-S 
 
 yp\^ 
 
 ClJ-c 
 
 
 3tH 
 
 
 J o 
 
 Ij'-' 
 
 oooo 
 
 SO 
 OO 
 
 M C^J C^) CI 'M "M 
 
 •-^ S S fl ~ •-■ 
 
 -t->4-> b, 
 
 ja 3 P 3 
 
 P 01 bfl-5 
 
 S 3 D 
 
 a a a 
 
 ""oo-^ij'goo 
 oooo'-' Joo 
 
 O O O O O K O tH 
 tH C-J CM rt lO ,-, rH . 
 
 000C7O+JO^ 
 
 
 ^<wn-<i_i_Oc —"^ 
 
 ""ooocS®"© 
 of:cco'~'o y, o 
 
 lO 1-1 IM iH CJ Jd IM iQ tH 
 a . Q^ . 
 
 a o o a o cj= w o 
 
 rHT-lT-(>-(7HrHTH0trH 
 
 
 o o' w o o 
 
 
 ^BOOo^OJ^Si'*' — 
 
 rn a; "-• I^H D oj c '^ •'"'•'"' I^ ""• ^ d B B -^ ""* '"^ *^ o^ .rn o; .,-( .^ a> a* .^ 
 Qc-i-nCiMcociO-rH^ClrH Q-HytgQr-'r-lT^ccOf■^COcce-lC 
 
 .9.9.S Q.S.S-S.S 
 
 BO : a : : a a : J a j a b 
 •"•"B-"fl-^"a-"aa-"-^fl_a— B-"~ 
 
 t>;^ 
 
 .=3.: 
 
 
 a * 
 
 h K X _; 
 
 a R R 4^ 
 X 01 II 41 
 
 1» &I 
 
 ■; i«sii 
 
 SB R S 
 x£,s 
 
 K 8 s 
 BQUU 
 
 fcS 
 
 
 
 — — <p 1? ^ :;5 1) ^ _ 
 
 K 
 
 J; 9 3 ? « S Si 
 
 
 3=a =8 
 a' i-xs 
 
 
 k A 
 
 5 a ^i' 
 
 : c ^ «- — 
 
 03 « 
 MM 
 
 
 §§i;SgsS8*^sSafldB|&o|s5*'5 6§|p 
 
Seed Table. 
 
 171 
 
 QUANTITY OF SEED REQUIRED TO SOW AN ACRE 
 
 Variety. 
 
 How Planted. 
 
 Quantity. 
 
 Asparagus 
 
 Beans, Dwarf 
 
 Beans, Pale 
 
 Beets 
 
 Cabbage 
 
 Carrots 
 
 Corn 
 
 Corn, for silo 
 
 Cucumber 
 
 Cress, Water 
 
 Cress, Upland .- 
 
 Kale, German 
 
 Mustard 
 
 Melons, Musk 
 
 Melons, Water 
 
 Onions 
 
 Onions, for rSets . . . 
 
 Onion, sets 
 
 Parsnip 
 
 Peas, English 
 
 Potatoes, cut, tubers 
 
 Pumpkin 
 
 Radish 
 
 Sage 
 
 Salsify 
 
 Spinach 
 
 Squash, Bush 
 
 Squash, Running . . . 
 
 Tomato 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Tnrriins 
 
 DTills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Hills 
 
 Drills 
 
 In beds to transplant 
 
 Drills 
 
 Hills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Hills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Hills 
 
 Hills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Hills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Drills 
 
 Hills 
 
 Hills 
 
 To transplant .... 
 
 Drills 
 
 Bro'idcast 
 
 4 to 5 quarts. 
 
 2 bushels. 
 
 10 to 12 quarts. 
 
 5 to 6 pounds, 
 one-half pound. 
 
 3 to 4 pounds. 
 8 to 10 quarts. 
 3 bushels. 
 
 2 to 3 pounds. 
 2 to 3 pounds. 
 
 2 to 3 pounds. 
 
 3 to 4 pounds. 
 
 4 to 5 pounds. 
 2 to 3 pounds. 
 
 4 to 5 pounds. 
 
 5 to 6 pounds. 
 30 pounds. 
 
 6 to 8 bushels. 
 4 to 6 pounds. 
 
 2 bushels. 
 
 10 to 12 bushels 
 4 to 6 pounds. 
 8 to 10 pounds. 
 8 to 10 pounds. 
 8 to 10 pounds. 
 4 to 6 pounds. 
 4 to 6 pounds. 
 
 3 to 4 pounds, 
 quarter pound. 
 1 to 2 pounds. 
 3 to 4 pnnnd<5. 
 
172 
 
 Truck Geowing in the South. 
 
 PLANTING TABLE FOR FLOWERS 
 
 ^^^HIS table is for vicinity of Atlanta. For other latitudes it is 
 ^^y well to go by time of blooming or leafing of trees. Where 
 date of outdoor planting or setting is given as March, you can plant 
 when the Peach is in blossom; and w^here April is the Month given, 
 it is safe to plant w^hen the trees are in full leafage. 
 
 VARIETY 
 
 INDOORS 
 
 OUTDOORS 
 
 WHEN TO 
 SEl' OUT 
 
 Distance Be- 
 tween Plants 
 
 Ageratum 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 3 in. high . . . 
 
 6 inches 
 
 Asters 
 
 Jan. & Feb.. 
 Feb. & Mar.. 
 
 March-June . 
 April 
 
 After Frost. 
 After Frost . 
 
 9 inches 
 
 Calliopsis 
 
 
 Castor-oil Bean... 
 
 
 April 
 
 
 3 feet 
 
 Candytuft 
 
 
 Fall & Sprin 
 March & Apr 
 April & May 
 
 
 
 
 Jan. & Feb.. 
 Feb. & Mar.. 
 
 April 
 
 April-May . . 
 
 
 Chrysanthemum . . , 
 Cosmos 
 
 9 inches 
 
 Dahlia 
 
 
 
 April-May . . 
 
 3 feet 
 
 Digitalis 
 
 
 
 
 Korget-me-not .... 
 
 
 
 
 12 inches 
 
 Gourds 
 
 
 April & May 
 
 
 4 inches 
 
 Hollyhocks 
 
 Feb. & Mar.. 
 
 6 in. high... 
 
 2 feet 
 
 Larkspur 
 
 
 
 12 inches 
 
 
 
 
 
 6 inches 
 
 Mignonette 
 
 Moming-Glory . . . . 
 
 Feb. & Mar.. 
 
 April-May . 
 May 1st . . . 
 
 April 
 
 6 inches 
 8 inches 
 
 Nasturtiums 
 
 
 
 
 6-10 inches 
 
 
 Oct. & Nov.. 
 March 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 April-May . . 
 April 
 
 
 
 
 Phlox 
 
 6 inches 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 inches 
 
 Portulaca 
 
 
 April 15-June 
 April 
 
 April 15 . . . 
 April 
 
 4 inches 
 
 Salvia 
 
 
 18 inches 
 
 Stock 
 
 
 12 inches 
 
 SunfloTTer 
 
 
 April & May 
 Jan. 15-Mar. . 
 
 18 inches 
 
 Sweet Pea 
 
 
 
 Drill 
 
 Sweet William . . . . 
 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 April 
 
 April 
 
 8 inches 
 
 
 March 
 
 
 
 Broadcast 
 
 
 
 
 
Monthly Calendar. 173 
 
 MONTHLY CAKENDAE OF OPEEATIONS. 
 
 For the Mark:et Gardener and Farmer When and 
 What to Pi^nt. 
 
 This calendar is given to aid the amateur or beginner. 
 It should be borne in mind that these recommendations 
 apply mainly to the latitude of Birmingham, Ala., and 
 ought to be varied according to locality. 
 
 January — E^ow time to sow such seed as tomato, egg 
 plant, cabbage, kohl rabi, cauliflower, in hot-beds or cold 
 frames for plants ; potatoes may be planted as well as ex- 
 tra early peas and onion sets ; a good time to work and fer- 
 tilize your land. 
 
 February — Plant potatoes, peas, beets, onion sets, salsi- 
 fy, carrots, celery, egg plant, cabbage, lettuce, toma- 
 to, radish, early corn, etc. In. fact, all the hardy things 
 should be planted. Snap beans may be planted in some 
 localities ; a good time to sow grass seed, oats, etc. 
 
 March — Most anything may now be planted, such as 
 melons, beans, cucumbers, turnips, mustard, col- 
 lards, etc. Grass seed may still be successfully planted. 
 Bed your sweet potatoes. 
 
 April — Tim© to plant field corn; in fact, all kinds of 
 field crops, such as millet, sorghum, cotton, peas, melons, 
 squashes, pumpkins', stock beets. 
 
 May — Time to plant pole beans, limas, okra, and all 
 other things that have been overlooked. This month 
 should be mostly occupied in planting successions of most 
 all vegetables. 
 
174 Tkuck Geowing in the South. 
 
 June — Not mucli is planted this montli except for late 
 use. The wise gardener, however, makes a succession of 
 plantings of most everything — cabbage, collards, beets, 
 and ruta bagas are largely planted this month for late use. 
 
 July — If you have not sown turnips you should do so 
 at once. Sow winter cabbage ; collards, spinach, kale and 
 other winter green crops should be planted. Fall crops 
 of Irish potatoes should now be planted. Late crops of 
 early corn have plenty time to make roasting ears. 
 
 August — This is the great turnip planting month, and 
 the proper time to plant most all vegetables for fall use, 
 such as spinach, kale, winter radishes, mustard, turnips, 
 lettuce, snap beans, early peas, winter cabbage, etc. Pota- 
 toes for spring seed are often planted this late with suc- 
 cess. 
 
 September — Continue to plant such things as winter 
 radish, kale, spinach, mustard, turnips, lettuce, etc. ; they 
 are not affected by the cold nights in October, and will do 
 well. Now getting time to sow fall grain, such as turf 
 oats, clover, rye, barley, grass seed, etc, 
 
 October — Continued to plant spinach, winter turnips, 
 etc., and by all means think about the subject of sowing 
 something for winter pasture. 
 
 November — Plant onion sets, clovers, grasses and grain. 
 
 December — If you wish to be early, this month is the 
 proper time to sow cabbage, cauliflower, tomato and egg 
 plant for early settings. 
 
 Amzi Godden Seed Co. 
 
Maturity of Gaeden Crops. 175 
 
 Time Kequiked foe. Matueity of Diffeeent Gaeben 
 Ceops, Reckoned From Day of Sowing the Seed. 
 
 Days 
 
 Beans, String 45 to 65 
 
 Beians, Shell 65 to 70 
 
 Beets, Turnip 65 
 
 Beets, Long 150 
 
 Cabbage, Early 105 
 
 Cabbage, Late 150 
 
 Cauliflower . . . '. 110 
 
 Com 75 
 
 Eggplant 150 to 160 
 
 Lettuce 65 
 
 Melon, Water 120 to 140 
 
 Melon, Musk 120 to 140 
 
 Onion 135 to 150 
 
 Pepper . . .' 140 to 150 
 
 Radish 30 to 45 
 
 Squash, Suinimer 60 to 65 
 
 Squash, Winter 125 
 
 Tomato 150 
 
 Turnip 60 to 70 
 
176 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 AvEEAGE Time Required for Garden Seeds to Ger- 
 minate. 
 
 Days 
 
 Beans 5 to 10 
 
 Beet 7 to 10 
 
 Cabbage 5 to 10 
 
 Carrot 12 to 18 
 
 Cauliflower 5 to 10 
 
 Celery 10 to 20 
 
 Corn 5 to 8 
 
 Cucumber 6 to 10 
 
 Endive 5 to 10 
 
 Lettuce 6 to 8 
 
 Melon 4 to 8 
 
 Onion 7 to 10 
 
 Pea 6 to 10 
 
 Parsnip 10 to 20 
 
 Pepper 9 to 14 
 
 Pumpkin 4 to 8 
 
 Radish 3 to 6 
 
 Salsify 7 to 12 
 
 Squash 4 to 8 
 
 Tomato 6 to 12 
 
 Turnip 4 to 8 
 
Spraying and Protective Calendar. 
 
 177 
 
 SPRAYING AND PROTECTIVE CALENDAR 
 
 PESTS 
 Fungoids 
 
 CHEWING INSECTS 
 
 Sucking Insects 
 
 REMEDY 
 
 PROCEDURE. 
 
 codling moth 
 
 diabratica 
 
 Bud moth 
 
 canker woem 
 
 curculio 
 
 Tent Caterpillar 
 
 Bitter Rot 
 
 Black Rot 
 
 Canker 
 
 Scab 
 
 Scale 
 
 Leaf Aphis 
 
 WOOLLY APHIS 
 
 BLIGHT 
 
 BORERS (Round 
 and Flat Headed) 
 
 RUST 
 
 CROWN GALL 
 H'TT^Y ROOT 
 
 1 
 
 APPLE. 
 
 4-6-50 Bordeaux and 
 4 % ounces Paris 
 Green 
 
 Lime-Sulphur Wash 
 Tob. Pyrethrum Tea 
 Tobacco Dust 
 
 Manual 
 
 Manual 
 
 Manual 
 
 Manual 
 
 Initial spraying before buds 
 open 
 
 For codling moth spray ex- 
 actly when blossoms are 
 falling and fruit the size 
 of a pea 
 
 For subsequent sprayings 
 follow at interyals of 
 three weeks till fruit is 
 nearly grown 
 
 In Dec. and Feb. as above 
 
 Dip terminals in bucket 
 
 1 to 5 lbs. at roots in Apr. 
 and Au.g. 
 
 Amputate affected termi- 
 nals 
 
 Paint trunk with thick 
 Whale Oil Soap 
 
 Remove all neighboring 
 cedar trees 
 
 Reject affected stock 
 
 diabratica 
 
 Canker Worm 
 
 codling moth 
 
 Slug 
 
 Leaf Blight 
 
 Scab J 
 
 Aphis 
 
 Scale 
 
 LEAF BLISTER 
 
 (Phytaps) 
 TWIG BLIGHT 
 
 (Psylla and Xyla- 
 
 borus) 
 FIRE BLIGHT 
 CPOWN GALL 
 
 
 PEAR, 
 
 4-6-50 Bordeaux and 
 4 V-i ounces Paris 
 Green 
 
 Tob. Pyrethrum Tea 
 Lime-Sulphur Wash 
 Manual 
 
 Manual 
 
 Manual 
 Manual 
 
 Spray precisely as advised 
 for apples 
 
 Dip as for louse on apple 
 
 As for apples and above 
 
 Burn fallen leaves 
 
 Remove terminals 
 
 Prune tree to spreading 
 form ; remove fruit spurs 
 on main arms and am- 
 putate as blight shows 
 
 Reiect affected stock 
 
 Scale 
 
 Leaf Curl 1 
 
 Brown Rot 1 
 
 Scab 
 
 Mildew y 
 
 DIABRATICA 
 CURCULIO J 
 
 Aphis 
 
 BARK BEETLE 
 
 (Scolytus) 
 CROWN GALL 
 
 BORER 
 
 NEMATODES 
 
 PEACH. 
 
 Lime-Sulphur Wash 
 
 3-9-50 Bordeaux and 
 3 ozs. Paris Green 
 
 Tob. Pyrethrum Tea 
 
 Manual 
 
 Manual 
 
 Manual 
 
 Manual 
 
 Spray in Dec. and Feb. 
 
 Spray first before buds 
 open ; next, after blooms 
 fall and at intervals of 
 three weeks thereafter 
 till fruit is nearly grown. 
 Select clear days for 
 spraying. Foliage ten- 
 der 
 
 Dip, as with apples ; if 
 slight, remove terminals 
 
 Destroy affected trees 
 
 Re.iect affected stock ; de- 
 stroy affected trees in 
 plat 
 
 Wrap trunk with paper and 
 mound Aug. 1. — "Worm" 
 by hand Oct. 25 
 
 Reiect affected stock 
 
178 
 
 Teuck Gkowing in the South. 
 
 PESTS 
 
 
 
 Fungoids 
 
 CHEWING INSECTS 
 
 REMEDY 
 
 PROCEDURE. 
 
 Sticking Insects 
 
 
 
 
 PLUM. 
 
 
 Scale 
 
 Lime-Sulphur Wash 
 
 Spray in Dec. and Feb. 
 
 Black Knot 
 Pockets and Blad- 
 
 
 
 
 
 (1) 3-9-50 Bordeaux 
 
 Spray as for peach with 
 
 ders 
 
 
 and 31/2 ozs. Paris 
 
 (1) 
 
 GONGER 
 
 
 Green 
 
 
 CURCULIO 
 
 
 (2) Am. Copper Car- 
 
 (2) for use after fruit 
 
 Slug 
 
 
 bonate 
 
 is grown, if necessary 
 
 Brown Rot 
 
 
 
 
 Aphis 
 
 Tob. Pyrethrum Tea 
 
 Use as advised for peach 
 
 CROWN GALL 
 
 
 
 BORER 
 
 Manual 
 
 Treat as advised for peach 
 
 BARK BEETLE 1 
 
 
 
 CHERRY. 
 
 
 SUNSCALD 
 
 Manual 
 
 Train tree to low head : 
 shade S. W. side of 
 
 Other Maladies iden- 
 
 Bordeaux and Arse- 
 
 trunk while young 
 
 tical with plums. 
 
 nite as for plums 
 
 Same as for plum 
 
 except "Leafspot" 
 
 
 
 — a funTus 
 
 
 
 
 QUINCE. 
 
 
 Scale 
 
 Lime-Sulphur Wash 
 
 Apply in Dec. and Feb. 
 
 Leaf and fruit spot "1 
 
 
 
 Cdrculio 1- 
 
 4-6-50 Bordeaux and 
 
 Spray as for pear 
 
 Slug J 
 
 4 ozs. Paris Green 
 
 
 CROWN GALL 
 
 
 Manual 
 
 As for pear 
 
 Anthracnose 
 Black Rot 
 Brown Rot 
 Mildew (Downy 
 and Powdery) 
 Plf.a Beetle 
 
 CtTROULTO 
 
 Dtabratica 
 Leaf-hopper 
 
 Aphis 
 
 GRAPE. 
 
 (1) 4-6-50 Bordeaux 
 with 4 14 ounces 
 Paris Green 
 
 (2) Am. Copper Car- 
 bonate 
 
 Whale Oil Soan-l lb. 
 to 10 gals, water 
 
 Manual 
 
 Sprav first as buds are 
 swelling and thereafter 
 at intervals of 3 weeks 
 until fruit is nearly 
 grown. except during 
 blooming period 
 
 For use after grapes begin 
 to color, as it does not 
 stain 
 
 Sprav at first annearance 
 and 5-dav Interva's until 
 destroyed. See Note 4 
 
 Renai'^e termlna's 
 
 
 
 STRAWBERRY. 
 
 Spray when "-rowth first 
 starts in Spring and 
 
 Rust 
 
 
 
 every ten davs there- 
 
 Mildew 
 
 
 4-6-50 Bordeaux and 
 
 after until fruit is half 
 
 SAWFLY 
 
 
 4 lA ounces Paris 
 
 grown, omitting bloom- 
 
 Leaf roller 
 
 (and 
 
 Green 
 
 ing period. Mow and 
 
 other chewin 
 
 J in- 
 
 
 burn plat after bearing 
 
 sects) 
 
 
 
 season. 
 
 
 
 RASPBERRY. 
 
 
 Leaf Spot 
 
 
 
 Sprav when buds are swell- 
 
 Anthracnose 
 
 
 4-6-50 Bordeaux and 
 
 ing and at 2-wk. Inter- 
 
 SLUG 
 
 
 4% ounces Paris 
 
 vals subsequently. 
 
 SAWFLY 
 
 
 Green 
 
 Remove canes with an- 
 thracnose 
 
 CROWN GALL 
 
 
 Manual 
 
 Reject infected nurs. stock 
 
Spkaying and Peotective Calendae. 
 
 179 
 
 PESTS 
 Fungoids 
 
 CHEWING INSECTS 
 
 Sucking Insects 
 
 REMEDY 
 
 PROCEDURE. 
 
 Leaf Spot 
 Anthracnose 
 
 SLUG 
 
 Sawflt 
 
 CROWN GALL 
 ORANGE RUST 
 
 BLACKBERRY, 
 DEWBERRY, ETC. 
 
 4-6-50 Bordeaux and 
 5 ozs. Paris Green 
 
 Manual 
 
 Manual 
 
 Proceed as with raspber- 
 ries 
 
 As with raspberries 
 
 Remove affected parts and 
 all contiguous wild black- 
 berries 
 
 Eust 
 
 ASPARAGUS. 
 
 (1) Copper Sulphate 
 or Am. Copper Car- 
 bonate 
 
 (2) 4-6-50 Bordeaux 
 
 When first shoots appear 
 drench ground with (1) 
 either preparation 
 
 After cutting season spray 
 with (2) at monthly in- 
 tervals to midsummer 
 
 Dtabratica 
 FLEA Beetle 
 Anthracnose 
 Pox Rust 
 Leaf Blight 
 
 BEAN. 
 
 4-6-50 Bordeaux and 
 5 ozs. Paris Green 
 
 Spray when plants are 
 
 well up and every 2 
 
 wks. till blossoming pe- 
 riod 
 
 Leaf Spot 
 Scab 
 
 BEET. 
 
 4-6-50 Bordeaux 
 
 On appearance of former 
 and every 3 wks. after- 
 wards for 5 sprayings. 
 Rotate plat 
 
 CUT Worms 
 
 Cabbage worm 
 
 FLEA Beetle 
 
 cabbj\ge bug 
 harlequin bug 
 
 CABBAGE AND 
 CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 (1) I^aris Green or 
 Sodium Arsenite 
 
 (2) Bran Mash 
 
 (1) Paris Green — 
 % oz. to gallon of 
 water 
 
 (2) Sod. Arsenite 
 
 (3) Hellebore 
 
 Manual 
 Manual 
 
 Steep balls of cabbage 
 leaves in the arsenite 
 and distribute through 
 plat at night. Use mash 
 as per Note 
 
 Spray on apnearance with 
 (1). In 5 days spray 
 with (2). Every week 
 thereafter use (3) until 
 disappearance 
 
 Hand pick 
 
 Trap with rows of mus- 
 tard around plat 
 
 Leaf Blight 
 Rust 
 
 CELERY. 
 
 (1) 4-6-50 Bordeaux 
 
 (2) Am. Copper Car- 
 bonate 
 
 Spray seed-bed with (1). 
 Dip plants in (1) on 
 setting out. Spray in 
 10 days with (1) and at 
 2-wk. intervals for 2 
 more spravlngs. Then 
 spray with (2) till 
 "earthed" for bleaching 
 
180 
 
 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 PESTS 
 
 
 
 Fungoids 
 
 CHEWING INSECTS 
 
 REMEDY 
 
 PROCEDURE. 
 
 Snckinfj Insects 
 
 
 
 
 CUCURBITS. 
 
 
 
 Inolufling: 
 
 
 
 Cucumber, 
 
 
 
 Squash, 
 
 
 
 Cantaloupe, 
 
 
 
 AVatermelon, 
 
 
 
 Pumpkin. 
 
 
 Downy Mildew 
 
 
 Spray, after plants are up. 
 
 Wilt 
 
 4-6-50 Bordeaux and 
 
 every week until blooms 
 
 DlABRATICA 
 
 4 V' ounces Paris 
 
 appear 
 
 Melon worm 
 
 Green 
 
 A pinch of nitrate soda to 
 
 FLEA BEE'lLB 
 
 
 each hill pushes plants 
 rapidly forward and 
 strengthens their power 
 of resistance to all pests 
 
 Aphis 
 
 Whale Oil Soap — V2 
 
 On appearance — 2 spray- 
 
 
 lb. to gal. water 
 
 ings 5 days apart 
 Hand pick when in num- 
 
 SQUASH BUG 
 
 Manual 
 
 bers 
 Early planting is the only 
 
 PICKLE WORM 
 
 Manual 
 
 safeguard of muskmelon 
 asrain^t this pest 
 
 Leaf Spot 
 Colo, potato 
 
 Beetle 
 
 EGGPLANT. 
 
 4-6-50 Bordeaux 
 with 5 ozs. Paris 
 Green 
 
 Spray plants continuously 
 in cold frame : dip, on 
 transplanting and spray 
 at weekly intervals 
 thereafter for 5 weeks 
 
 Thrips 
 
 ONION. 
 
 Whale Oil Soap — Va 
 Ih. to gal. water 
 
 Spray on appearance of 
 pest and weekly until 
 extermination 
 
 Scab 
 
 Blight (Early and 
 
 Late) 
 Rot 
 Colo, potato 
 
 Beetle 
 Flea Beetle 
 
 POTATO (IRISH). 
 
 (1) Corrosive Subli- 
 mate (2 ozs. to 30 
 gals.) or 
 
 (2) Formalin (1 pt. 
 to 80 gals.) 
 
 4-6-50 Bordeaux and 
 6 to 8 ozs. Paris 
 Green 
 
 Soak tubers in sack with 
 
 (1) for 3 hrs., or with 
 
 (2) for 2 hrs., before 
 cutting and planting 
 
 Commence to spray as 
 soon as plants are well 
 up and at weekly Inter- 
 vals until grown 
 
 Rots, of all kinds 
 
 SWEET POTATO. 
 
 (1) Formalin (1 pt. 
 to 30 gals.) 
 
 (2) Copper Sulphate 
 (3 lbs. to 50 gals.) 
 
 Soak tubers with (1) for 
 2 hrs. before bedding. 
 Water beds with (2). 
 Handle carefully on dig- 
 ging and rotate both 
 beds and field areas 
 
Spraying and Pkotective Calendae. 
 
 181 
 
 PESTS 
 
 
 
 
 Pungoids 
 
 CHEWING INSECTS 
 
 
 REMEDY 
 
 PROCEDURE. 
 
 Sucking Insects 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 TOMATO. 
 
 
 Cut Worms 
 
 
 Paris Green or Bran 
 
 Apply as directed for cab- 
 
 
 
 Mash 
 
 bages 
 
 Damping — off 
 
 
 Manual 
 
 Cease pruning and with- 
 
 Leaf Curl 
 
 
 
 hold water 
 
 Mildew 
 
 
 
 Spray and seed bed (cold 
 
 Flea Beetle 
 
 
 
 frame) and after trans- 
 
 Tomato — Sphynx 
 
 
 4-6-50 Bordeaux and 
 
 planting at weekly or 
 
 and all Insects 
 
 
 5 ozs. Paris Green 
 
 10-day intervals until 
 
 conveying germs 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 fruit is nearly grown 
 
 of Bl. Rot and 
 
 
 Manual 
 
 Drench ground beneath 
 
 Bacterial Blight 
 
 
 
 vines till disappearance 
 
 
 
 Copper Carbonate 
 
 Trap with adjacent rows 
 
 Florida Blight 
 
 
 
 of sweet corn and crush 
 
 BOLL WORM 
 
 
 
 in shuck 
 
 
 
 HOT-HOUSE 
 
 
 
 
 PLANTS. 
 
 
 All fungoid affectio 
 
 n 
 
 Copper Carbonate 
 
 Spray whenever needed, or 
 
 and Biting I> 
 
 f- 
 
 and 1 pt. Sod. Ar- 
 
 at intervals of 3 wks. 
 
 SECTS 
 
 
 senite 
 
 for precaution 
 Evaporate (hot iron In 
 
 All Plant Lice 
 
 
 "Nikoteen" — a patent 
 
 pan) as per directions 
 
 (aphids) and othe 
 
 r 
 
 preparation but re- 
 
 with remedy 
 
 Suckinff Insects 
 
 
 
 liable 
 
 
182 Truck Geowing in the South. 
 
 Plant Diseases aee of Two Ci^sses : 
 
 1. Insect Pests^ — Preparations for whose destruction 
 are known as "Insecticides." 
 
 2. Fungous Affections^ — ^Preparations for whose de- 
 struction are known as "Fungicides." 
 
 1. Insects. 
 They are of two kinds : 
 
 1. Biting Insects (or Chewing Insects), which bodily 
 devour vegetable tissue, subsisting largely on the foliage 
 of plants. As they take the food material into their 
 stomachs they may be readily destroyed by violent poisons, 
 as the arsenites. To this class belong the Colorado potato 
 beetle, most caterpillars, and, in general, all defoliating 
 insects. 
 
 For them Paris Qreen (Formula One) is the principal 
 remedy, and usually a speedy one, applied in liquid 
 form by means of a spray pump, through the nose of a 
 watering-pot or t^prinkled with a broom, in the propor- 
 tion of 1 ounce to 10 gallons of water, or 5 ounces 
 to the barrel of 50 gallons, except when used on orchard 
 trees, and especially on peaches, whose foliage is very 
 sensitive, when it should be reduced to 4 ounces and 3 
 ounces, respectively. 
 
 2. Sucking Insects — Having a tubular sucking appa- 
 ratus which they insert into the soft vegetable tissue and 
 from it extract the sap. To this class belongs all scale in- 
 sects, aphids or plant lice, and the "true" bugs, such as the 
 pumpkin or squash bug, the harlequin cabbage bug, etc. 
 
Spraying and Pkotective Calendar. 183 
 
 As their sucking tubes would push. harmles:slj to one 
 side the particles of poison deposited on the surface of 
 leaf or twig these insects can not be reached through their 
 stomachs. They must therefore, be destroyed through ex- 
 ternal applications. Kerosene (preferably as an emul- 
 sion — Formula 3a) is found to stop their breathing pores 
 and instantly smother them, and in the past has been the 
 chief weapon against sucking insects. But on account of 
 the difficulty in economically applying it, Whale Oil Soap 
 (Formula 4), though not so effective, is preferable when- 
 ever it can be substituted. Certain other preparations', 
 as Pyrethrum (or Dalmatian powder — Formula 6), To- 
 bacco Infusion (Formula 5), etc., are also more or less 
 serviceable. 
 
 11. Fungous Affections. 
 
 Fungoid and bacterial affections are more numerous 
 and widespread than insect pests, and usually more in- 
 sidious, yet effective remedies, while many, may, for all 
 practical purposes, be reduced to one : Bordeaux Mixture. 
 This, if a fungus is capable of control, will generally prove 
 more effective than any other fungicide. It may be su- 
 perseded, when it is desirable not to stain the fruit by 
 Ammonical Copper Carbonate (Formula 11). 
 
184 Truck Growing in the South. 
 
 FORMULAS. 
 
 I. Insecticides. 
 
 1. Paris Green. 
 
 (A) Applied Dry: 
 
 Paris Green 8 ozs. 
 
 Flour (or Lime) 15 lbs. 
 
 (B) Sprayed: 
 
 Paris Green 5 ozs. 
 
 Lime 6 lbs. 
 
 Water 50 gals. 
 
 (C) With Bordeaux: 
 
 Paris Green 5 ozs. 
 
 Bordeaux Mixture , 50 gals. 
 
 2. Sodium Arsenite. 
 
 Sals'oda (crystallized) 4 lbs. 
 
 White Arsenic 1 lb. 
 
 Water , 1 gal. 
 
 Dissolve tbe salsoda in the water, add the white ar- 
 senic and boil till clear. Add water to replace that evap- 
 orated to make 1 gallon stock solution. Use 1 pint to 50 
 gallons of water or Bordeaux. 
 
 3. Kerosene. 
 
 (A) Emulsified — "Cook's Formula:" 
 
 Kerosene 1 qt. 
 
 Whale Oil Soap (or other good hard soap, 
 
 as Babbitt's', Ivory or Glory) % lb. 
 
 Pain water (or water known to be soft) . . 1 gal. 
 Shave soap, dissolve it in the water, heat to almost boil- 
 
FOBMULAS. 185 
 
 ing and then add the kerosene and churn through a cheap 
 force pump until emulsified. Dilute with 2% gallons of 
 water, making 1 part kerosene to 14 parts water. This 
 produces about a 7 per cent, miixture. Diluting with 2 
 gallons of water about 8 per cent, is obtained ; 9 per cent. 
 with 1% gallons; about 11 per cent, with 1 gallon, and 
 some 15 per cent, with 2 quarts. This is suflficiently 
 strong for most purposes. Yet it is well to begin with 
 the standard 7 per cent, until its effect on foliage has been 
 ])ersonally observed. 
 
 (B) Mechanical Mixture — temporarily emulsified by 
 the Kero-water Sprayers. A lever regulates the per cent. 
 of kerosene admitted to the nozzle. As the delivery, how- 
 ever, is not always exact, the Emulsion is decidedly pref- 
 erable. Kero-water Sprayers, indeed, if used at all, 
 should be carefully watched. 
 
 4. Whale Oil Soap. 
 
 Whale Oil Soap 1 lb. 
 
 Water 6 gals. 
 
 Dissolve and spray for Alphids on foliage in summer, 
 or concentrate to 1 lb. to 3 gals, of water for wash for the 
 softer scales in winter. 
 
 5. Tobacco Infusiotst. 
 
 Tobacco Stems 1 lb. 
 
 Boiling Water 4 gals. 
 
 "Cool and strain. For Plant Lice, Flea Beetles, etc. 
 
 6. Pyrethrum. 
 (A) Decoction: 
 
 Pyrethrum Powder 1 oz. 
 
 Water (warm) 2 gals. 
 
186 Teuck Growing in the South, 
 
 (B) Dry Application: — Mix 1 part (by weight) of 
 Pyrethrum with 4 parts of Flour. Keep closed for 24 
 hours before dusting, that the flour may be permeated by 
 the essential oil of the pyrethrum, 
 
 7. Tobacco-Ptretheum Tea. 
 
 Tobacco Stems % lb. 
 
 Pyrethrum Powder % oz. 
 
 Boiling Water 1 gal. 
 
 For obdurate cases of Plant Lice on young apple trees. 
 Dip the affected terminals in the tea. 
 
 11. Fungicides. 
 9. Bordeaux Mixture. 
 
 Copper Sulphate (bluestone) 4 lbs. 
 
 Quick Lime 6 lbs. 
 
 Water 50 gals. 
 
 Dissolve the bluestone in 2 gallons of hot water ; strain 
 through thei copper sieve of the sprayer or through a gunny 
 sack into a 50-gallon barrel. Slake the lime slowly in a 
 wooden bucket, and when ebullition is over dilute to a 
 thick whitewash. Strain slowly into the bluestone in the 
 barrel, stirring thoroughly. Fill the barrel with water. 
 Always stir well before filling the sprayer. The cost of 
 this mixture is less than one cent per gallon. 
 
 In case the mixture is not to be immediately used it is 
 well to make a "stock solution," in separate barrels, of 
 both bluestone and limC' — one pound of each to the gallon 
 of water. A gallon of either mixture will thus represent 
 1 pound of bluestone and 1 pound of lime, respectively, 
 
Formulas. 187 
 
 and the two maj be readily combined in any desired pro- 
 portion. 
 
 Tor application to peach foliage (for brown rot, leaf 
 curl, etc) a 3-9-50 mixture (3 pounds of bluestone, 9 
 pounds lime and 50 gallons of water) must be used in- 
 stead of the normal 4-6-50 formula. Peach foliage is 
 extremely sensitive. When Paris Green is combined with 
 the Bordeaux (4 ozs. to 50 gallons) it should not be stirred 
 in until just before spraying. 
 
 10. Copper Sulphate. 
 
 Copper Sulphate (bluestone) 4 ozs. 
 
 Water . 50 gals. 
 
 For the initial spraying before foliage is set or for win- 
 ter use; also when ground is to be drenched — as in antici- 
 pation of the Florida blight of the tomato. 
 
 11. Ammoniacal, Copper Carbonate. 
 
 Copper Carbonate 6 ozs. 
 
 Aqua Ammonia (strong, 26 degs.) .... 2 qts. 
 
 Water , 50 gals. 
 
 Make a paste of the copper carbonate with water, dilute 
 the ammonia with 1% gallons of water and stir in the 
 paste until thoroughly dissolved, making 2 gallons, stock 
 solution. Keep the stock solution in a glass vessel stopped 
 with glass or rubber, and on using dilute each quart with 
 6 gallons of water. 
 
 12. Formaldehyde (Formalin) — 1 pint to 30 gallons 
 of water. 
 
 For Potato Scab, and for purposes of general disinfec- 
 
188 Tkuok Geowing in the South. 
 
 tion. The tubers should be suspended in a gunny sack and 
 immeTsed in a barrel of the liquid for two hours before 
 cutting and planting. When used for Smut in grain di- 
 lute 1 pint to 50 gallons of water. 
 
 13. CoBEOSiVE Sublimate (Mercuric bi-chloride) . 
 
 Corrosive Sublimate 2 ozs. 
 
 Water 30 gals. 
 
 For Potato Scab. Soak as directed with Formalin, but 
 for 3 instead of 2 hours. This is a violent poison, inter- 
 nally, and great care should be observed in its use. 
 
 14. Lime-Sulphur Wash. 
 
 Lime (unslaked) 21 lbs. 
 
 Sulphur (flowers of) 18 lbs. 
 
 Water 50 gals. 
 
 Make a paste of the sulphur and stir same into 15 gal- 
 lons of boiling water. Add the lime and stir thoroughly 
 while slaking. Boil violently for 35 or 40 minutes, or 
 until the mixture is a yellowish-green color. Dilute, be- 
 before the boiling closes, to 50 gallons and spray while 
 still warm. 
 
 For winter application for San Jose Scale and also an 
 effective fungicide for Plum Pocket, Leaf Curl, Black 
 Knot, etc. The original Lime-Sulphur-Salt compound 
 has' now been almost entirely superseded by thei foregoing, 
 which proves equally effective and more economical. 
 
 NOTE. 
 
 "Bran Mash," for Cut Worms, is made by stirring mo- 
 lasses and sodium arsenite with bran and applying a tea- 
 spoonful here and there through plat at nightfall. 
 
** Agriculture for the Common Schools" 
 
 By Dr. James B. Hunnicutt 
 
 New edition, 250 pages, 70 illustrations, best paper, printing and binding, post- 
 paid, 55 cents. It teaches the fundamental principles of the science of agricul- 
 ture in the forceful, succinct style for which Dr. Hunnicutt was so famous. Over 
 30,000 copies have been sold; though designed primarily for school use, it is also 
 a book for the farmer. Valuable reference tables are included. 
 
 **David Dickson's & Jas. M Smith's Farming'' 
 
 This is a day of progress, and new systems and methods are rapidly coming into 
 use; nevertheless, certain great fundamental principles go on forever. It is our 
 duty and one of our greatest privileges to first get a clear conception of these 
 principles, and then expand and modify them to best serve our conditions. The 
 best minds of all ages have fotmd inspiration from reading the "old masters," 
 and David Diclison was an "old master" in the art and science of intensive 
 farming. So any thoughtful mind can learn much from reading this book. 250 
 Pages. Price 50 Cents, postpaid. 
 
 **Ten Acres Enough" 
 
 (Author Unknown) 
 
 More than forty years ago, a book under this title was published and proved 
 very popular. But strange to say it has been for some time out of print. Believ- 
 ing the work to contain much that is pertinent to present conditions in the South, 
 we brought out this new edition, and have already sold over four thousand. 
 The garden, truck and berry crops are treated especially. The book Is unique in 
 the minuteness of details; yet it is so interesting that it has been styled "The 
 Romance of the Farm." 250 Pages. Illustrated. Price 50 Cents, postpaid. 
 
 "Southern Crops" 
 
 Our subscribers having asked us to republish "Furman's System of Farming," 
 the idea occurred to us to take Furman's plan on Cotton and Fowler's plan and 
 also give account of the largest yield of cotton that has been made; then give the 
 Williamson plan, Aldrich system and J. B. Hunnicutt's system of growing Corn, 
 with an account of how Drake made the world-record yield. Next we take up 
 wheat, oats, hay, potatoes and legumes, winding up with the truck and garden 
 crops. This makes the best and most complete book ever published on Southern 
 crops. It is a compilation of the best in Southern agricultural literature for the 
 past thirty years. Then it has the advantage of being written by practical farm- 
 ers. No one man could have written such a work. It is written by some thirty 
 or forty men, all experts in their line. Price 50 Cents, postpaid. 
 
 N. B. — Any oneof the above books free with one year's subscription to 
 THE SOUTHERN CULTIVATOR at $1.00. 
 
 The Cultivator Publishing Co., 
 
 BOX 798, ATLANTA, GEORGIA. 
 
DEC 16 1810 
 
15^ 
 
 One copy del. to Cat, Div.