Garments for Girls Celestin^ Leontine Schmit I I I I tHMMMIMHIIIMMli ■ SI ■ Class _TT J_LO_ CoBtiglitN!'^ CORJRIGHT BSPOSm GARMENTS FOR GIRLS GARMENTS FOR GIRLS BY CEI.ESTINE LEONTINE SCHMIT Associate Professor of Home Ecokomics, University of Wisconsin ILLUSTRATED WITH PHOTOGRAPHS AND DIAGRAMS NEW YORK THE CENTURY CO. 1919 Copyright, 1919, by The Centt;ry Co. MM -3 1919 ^^V _. . _ . tv ^ 1^ i-\ o ~? TO MADAME A. GUERRE AND TO HER DAUGHTER, MADAME Le COMTE Professors in the "Ecoles Professionelles' and the University des Annales of Paris, my former teachers, from whom I drew much inspiration and enthusiasm for this work PREFACE So far sewing has not received the attention which it should in the school curriculum, and yet no other subject helps more to cultivate thrift, order, and economy. With the introduction of the straight line drafting, one finds that since 1886 the teaching of sewing, cutting, and gar- ment making has found an equal place with academic studies in most of the girls' schools in European countries. The value of this teaching on the economic, social, and moral conditions of these countries has been well rec- ognized. In addition it will offer an opportunity for close correlation with other subjects in the school curriculum, such as drawing, arithmetic, English, etc. It enables the instructor to give more class instruction than has heretofore been possible in the teaching of sewing. The subject matter includes the sewing, the cutting, and the making of the most necessary garments in any girl's wardrobe. Each lesson is a complete unit. In the selec- tion of the work care has been taken to make ix X PREFACE sure that the lesson of one day reviews that of the previous day and prepares for the one in advance. To acquire skill, repetition is neces- sary. This has been kept in mind and the writer has endeavored to make the repetition less tiresome and more profitable by giving it variety. Each lesson is followed by such ques- tions as will create thought and discussion on the part of the members of the class, and also will give suggestions to the teacher. Special attention has been given to the intro- duction of all possible short cuts in the con- struction of garments, without sacrificing the standards of work. Only such garments as are used in the trade at the present time are pre- sented in this text. Every proljlem and garment described has been fully worked out in the vocational schools in Wisconsin under the personal direction of the writer. The aim of the text is to inspire a love for the work. Long experience has proved that a growing interest in handiwork can be developed in almost every girl, provided that the efforts of the student are rewarded with adequate re- sults. The aid rendered in the organization and preparation of this text by Dean H. L. Russell PREFACE xi of the University of Wisconsin is gratefully acknowledged by the author. C. L. S. University of Wisconsin, Madison, July, 1918. CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE I Application of Hand and Machine Sewing 3 II Garment Construction 17 III Sewing Apron 27 IV Plain Kimono Nightgown .... 37 V Kimono Apron with Tucks .... 48 VI Kimono Nightgown with Yoke . . 61 VII Kimono Nightgown with Tucks and Hand-Made Trimming 71 VIII Work or Cooking Apron 78 IX Gores 87 X Cooking or Serving Apron .... 92 XI Petticoats 104 XII Drawers 124 XIII Skirts 143 XIV Middy Blouse 167 XV Shirt Waist 200 XVI Corset Cover 221 X /II Envelope Chemise 234 FOREWORD Until recent years the art of cutting women's and children's garments without the aid of com- mercial patterns has, in this country, been known only to dressmakers and tailors. It is possible, however, for any one to master the definite yet simple underlying principles which the system of drafting here presents and thus be able to make in a very short time a perfect fitting skirt and waist pattern. These patterns may be readily used as a base upon which all the patterns needed for other garments can be developed. This method originated with Mme. A. Guerre and is extensively used in the public schools of France. Through its use, the ex- pense and wastefulness of commercial patterns may be eliminated. The method is based on geometric principles and is the result of years of careful and patient observations both in the class room and in prac- tice in the home. It is clear, precise, and leaves nothing to hazard. GARMENTS FOR GIRLS GARMENTS FOR GIRLS CHAPTER I APPLICATION OF HAND AND MACHINE SEWING In the sewing outfit illustrated here, all the stitches and many of the seams with which pu- pils are already familiar are reviewed. ^'A place for everything and everything in its place'' is demonstrated here. Fig. 1. — Sewing Outfit A, Sewing bag; B, spool holder with scissors and thimble; C, needle book; D, pin cushion 3 4 GARMENTS FOK GIRLS This sewing outfit includes: 1. Sewing bag. 2. Needlebook. 3. Spool holder with a place for scissors, thimble, stiletto, bodkin, emery bag, etc. 4. Pincushion. To make the outfit 2/3 of a yard of 36'' ma- terial is required. Sewing Bag 3b^ B: ^ Fold 6 5 IT in h-r-1 n /6\ ^ xl -^ Fig. 2. — Sewing Outfit I, Sewing bag; II, bottom of sewing bag, with divisons marked; III, needle book: IV, spool holder; V, top part of spool holder; VI, pin cushion. A, Turned hem; B, casing; C, hem; D, folded over part and divisions for pockets. HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 5 Required Material 1 piece of material 14" by 36", 2 pieces of material 5" by 5", 2 pieces of card- board 4" by 4" in diameter, 2 yards of cord or ribbon, 1 spool of cotton or silk thread, 1 skein of embroidery cotton, sewing needle No. 9, bodkin, fine steel pins. To Make the Bag 1. Cut a piece of material 14" by 36". 2. If there is a selvage on the sides turn the material only once ; if there is a cut edge, turn the material l^" and fold this over 14". The raw edge may extend a little beyond the turned edge. 3. Join together with an overhanding seam. 4. Press the seam open and cut away the raw edges, if any, from under the turn. 5. Turn, pin or baste a V^" hem on the lower cut end of the material and stitch this by machine, or finish with either a hemming or a fancy stitch. 6. Fold over 1%'' for the upper hem ; crease this well. 7. Put in a basting thread 1" below the folded edge. 8. Leave %" space below the basting or IV2" from the folded edge of tne hem. 6 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 9. Measure 1^2^ down from the top. Turn the material wrong side out and baste down. 10. Divide the bag into halves with colored thread, then into four, and then into eight parts. 11. Stitch by machine or work over these di- visions with a running or fancy stitch, to form the inside pockets. 12. Gather by machine, or run two rows of very fine stitches %'' apart at the lowest edge. 13. For the bottom, cut two round pieces of cardboard 4" by 4'' in diameter. Cut the ma- terial V larger than the cardboard and make a fine running stitch around the edge. 14. Draw the thread up a little and insert the cardboard; then draw the thread so that the material fits over the cardboard tightly and smoothly, holding it in place by criss-crossing several threads. 15. Make both the bottom pieces in the same way and join or baste them together. 16. Divide the bottom edge into eight sections with colored thread. 17. Pin the sections of the bottom to the sec- tions of the bag; draw up these threads and overhand the top to the bottom. 18. Take out a few stitches in the casing of the hem of the seam and opposite this make an eyelet. Two cords should be used. These HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 7 should be drawn through in opposite directions. (See Fig. 1 A, Fig. 2 I, VI.) TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Cut the bag. 2. JMake a i/4" turn along the cut edge. Crease or pull a thread. 3. For the hem and the casing measure ll^'' from the turned edge. 4. For the casing measure 1" from the turned edge. Crease or pull a thread. 5. Overhand the selvages together. 6. Pin the hem down and run one shirring thread for the casing. 7. Make the hem. 8. Make a V2" hem on the other side of the bag. Hem this by hand or stitch it by machine. 9. Measure 5" from this hem for the pockets. Crease this firmly or draw a thread. 10. Divide the bag into eight parts. Mark these divisions with a colored thread. 11. Run two gathering threads %" apart very close to the bottom edge. These gathering threads may be put in by machine. 12. Prepare the two parts for the bottom of the bag. 13. Divide each part into eight sections. Where the parts are divided into sections sew them together with an overhand stitch. 14. Pin the sections of the bag to the sections of the bottom. 8 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 15. Draw up the gathering thread of the bag to fit the bottom of the bag. 16. Sew the upper part of the bag to the bottom with an overhand stitch. 17. Make a running or a fancy stitch over the divi- sions in the bag, or stitch these by machine. 18. Make two cords for the bag. 19. Run the cords in the casing of the bag. 20. Finish the cords with a knot or tassel. QUESTIONS 1. What material has been used for making the bag? 2. What other material could be used ? 3. Name the different kinds of bags and their uses. 4. What material is used in the different types ? 5. What bags ^re especially used at the present time ? Why ? 6. What stitches were used in the making of the bag? 7. What seams were used in the making of the bag? Needle Book Required Material 2 pieces of cardboard 3'' by 5", 2 pieces of cloth 5'' by 7'% 1 piece of cloth 3'' by 7", 2 pieces of white cotton flannel 3" by 5", thread, needle, and pins as for the sewing bag. HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 9 Cut through the center two pieces of card- board 3'' by 5'', to secure four pieces 3" by 2i/2''- Cut two pieces of covering 5'' by 7". Lay the material over one of these cardboard pieces, being careful to have the warp and the woof at right angles. Turn the edges over, mi- ter the corners, and hold the material in place with pins. Then baste the corners and hold the edges down by criss-crossing threads from side to side. Repeat this process on the other cardboard, leaving i/^/' space in the center. Before applying the inside piece, take a 3'' by 7'' piece, turn the raw edge over, and baste this to the middle. Fold the edges over the card- board, pin both the covers together, and join them with an overhand stitch. Hold the cen- ters in place with 2 rows of running stitches %" apart. Cut 2 pieces of white flannel 3" by 5"; pink the edges or finish these with a blanket stitch and fasten the pieces to the cover. (See Fig. 1 C, Fig. 2 III.) Spool Holder Required Material 6 pieces of cardboard 5'' long, 1'' wide at the top and 1%'' wide at the bottom; 10 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 6 pieces of material 7" by 3^'', 1 piece of cardboard 3'' by 1%'', 1 piece of cardboard 1" by 2'', 1 piece of material 5" by 2i/o", 1 piece of material 2'' by 3'% needles and thread as for previous ar- ticles, and 5 spools of thread of various numbers to put in the holder. To make the spool holder, cut six pieces of material 7'' by 'Sy^', and cover the six card- boards by following the directions given for the needle book. The middle piece has an addi- tional pocket on the top to hold the scissors. This is covered on the piece of cardboard 3'' long V wide at the bottom and 1%'' wide at the top. The top is cut to a point. Pin each top piece to the bottom one and then join the three pieces together with an overhand stitch, a cross-stitch, or any other fancy stitch. Cover a piece of cardboard 1" wide by 2'' long with the same material and fasten it to the up- per corner. A number of spools of cotton and silk thread are laced to the holder. The spaces between the lacing on the top cover may be used as holders for the glove darner, stiletto, bodkin, pencil, etc. (See Fig. 1 B, Fig. 2 IV, V.) HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 11 Pin Cushion Required Material 2 pieces of material 3%'' in diameter, bran, sawdust, or vegetable hair for fill- ing, needles and thread as for previous articles. If the material used is not strong, line it with white muslin. Be careful to see that the warp and woof of both the outer and the inner ma- terial run in the same direction. Run a basting thread up and down, and from side to side to divide the circular pieces into four equal sections. Join the parts on the wrong side with a com- bination stitch, leaving an opening of 1%''. Baste the raw edge down all around the open- ing. Press the seam open and turn the cushion right side out. Fill it with curled or vegetable hair, sawdust, or bran. After the cushion is well filled, overhand the opening. Make a fancy stitch over the seam. With a strong thread or embroidery cotton, divide the cushion into eight parts. Draw up the dividing threads so that the cushion looks like a pumpkin. (See Fig. 1 D, Fig. 2 II.) 12 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Holder and Cover Holders are used in every food class. There should be at least two sets for each student : A set consists of two. A holder may be made of three thicknesses of outing flannel or of any remnants which may be on hand. Very often the holder is slipped into a cover. (See Figs. 3 and 4.) Fig. 3. — Holder HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 13 Required Material Three thicknesses of material, 5')4" square, No. 70 white thread for ma- chine stitching, 1 spool of coarse soft crochet cotton, No. 6 crewel needle, a piece of muslin 13" by 6'' for the cover, % of a yard of tape, or instead of the tape a strip of cloth 1%'' wide and % yard long. The holder is a short problem and affords the teacher a good opportunity for testing the skill of new students. It may serve as a first problem for machine stitching. The short raw edges afford a good opportunity for a review of the blanket stitch and the buttonhole stitch. Making the Holder 1. Cut 3 or 4 pieces of material 5%" by 51/2'' for each holder. 2. Baste or pin these together carefully. 3. Stitch 2 or 3 rows evenly all around the 4 sides about 14'' apart. Be careful to make good square corners and to have a perfect ten- sion. 4. Finish two of the raw edges with a but- tonhole stitch. 14 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 5. Finish the other two edges with a blanket stitch. Use coarse soft crochet or embroidery cotton. The stitches may be %" apart and 3/16'' deep. Cover Cut a piece of muslin 13" long and 6'' wide. Making the Cover 1. On each short end, crease a %" hem firmly and stitch it by machine. 2. Fold the holder crosswise through the center and mark this center well with a crease. 3. From each side of the center, measure over 5%'' and mark this point with a pin. 4. Unfold the holder and place each marked end directly over the line which marks the mid- dle of the holder. The hems will slightly over- lap. (See Fig. 4 II.) 5. Cut a piece of tape Y/' or W wide and 27'' long and stitch this securely to one corner of the holder. If tape cannot be obtained read- ily, it may be made out of strips of cloth. The tape may be made of double material or a small hem may be made on each side. (Fig. 4 III.) 6. Stitch the holder together with a plain seam %" below each cut edge. HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 15 7. Open each seam by pressing it between the thumb and the forefinger. 8. Turn the cover inside out. Pull out each corner with a pin. Crease the seams very flat. 9. Press the cover and the holder. 10. Make in the end of the tape a buttonhole Fig. 4. — Method of Cutting Holdee and Cover I, Cover cut; II, wrong side of folded cover; ID, right side of folded cover; IV, holder 16 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS to fit the button which is sewed on the band of the cooking apron. TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Cut the material. 2. Fold the hem. 3. Stitch the hem. 4. Fold the cover to make a square with the flaps inside. 5. Make the tape. 6. Sew on the tape. 7. Stitch the raw edge. 8. Open the seam. 9. Turn inside out. 10. Crease and press. 11. Make a buttonhole in the end of the tape. QUESTIONS 1. What are holders used for? 2. Why do we make covers for the holders? 3. What material may be used for the holders? 4. What material may be used for the covers? 5. What stitches do you use around the edges of the holders? 6. Name some other places where these stitches are used? 7. What seams do you use in the covers ? 8. Enumerate the steps you have taken to make the covers. CHAPTEE II GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Before beginning to make any kind of gar- ment it is necessary to analyze it and consider : 1. The required measurements. 2. The different parts of which it is com- posed. 3. Suitable material with regard to (a) wear- ing qualities, (b) advantage of cutting, (c) ex- penditure, (d) ease of laundering, (e) ease of repairing or making over. 4. The preparation of the material for draft- ing and cutting. 5. The drafting of the pattern. 6. The laying of the pattern on the material. 7. The cutting out. 8. The construction of the garment. 9. The trimming. 10. The pressing. 11. The cost. 12. The comparison of the finished garment with similar ready-made garments as to quality of materia], workmanship, price, fit, and general appearance. 17 18 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Cutting and Making of Garments General Rule for the Construction of Garments Under garment construction is included the making of a suitable garment for an individual. This very important part of needlework in- cludes the study and analysis of the garment to be made : 1. The taking of measurements. 2. The drafting of the pattern. 3. The cutting of the garment according to the pattern. 4. The joining of the different parts. 5. The fitting and necessary alterations. 6. The sewing and finishing of the garment. 7. The application of trimmings, if these are used. 8. The pressing. Taking of Measurements For the construction of any garment, no mat- ter how simple, certain definite measurements are necessary. The taking of measurements is a very important procedure, because the fit and the elegance of the garment depend wholly upon the accuracy with which these measurements are taken. For loose, flowing garments, com- paratively few measurements are required. For tight-fitting garments, more measurements GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 19 are necessary, because of the great accuracy with which each part must be adjusted. A Figs. 5 and 6. Measurements: -Taking Measurements Waist Measurements: 1, Length of back; 2, width across back ; 3, bust measure ; 4, underarm seam; 5, width across chest; 6, length of front; 7, waist measure; 8, neck measure; 9, length of sleeve. Skirt Measurements: 1, Waist measure; a, hip meas- ure taken 7" below the waist line; b, front length; c, side length; d, back length. 20 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS close-fitting waist always requires more meas- urements than a skirt. Measurements for a tight-fitting waist should always be taken over a corset cover. A waist is often ill-fitting, and if the measurements are taken over it, they are apt to be misleading. The measurements neces- sary for each garment will be given in each chapter, but the general principles give direc- tions as to what measurements should be taken. Fi^. 7 DifTerence of various commercial patterns and drafted patterns A. Drafted pattern. B. Commercial pattern. Braffwff and Placing of Patterns The student is shown how to draft patterns GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 21 for herself and thus be relieved from the ex- pense of purchasing commercial patterns for the various garments hereinafter described. The pattern of many of the garments illustrated in this text are drafted directly on the cloth. This saves a great deal of time and i)aper. The cost of the commercial patterns used for the gar- ments described in this work, figuring each at 15 cents, would be approximately $2. If the pattern is drafted on paper, cut out the pattern very carefully on the traced lines and cut just as many parts as are required to make the cloth garment. Mark each piece with its full name on the right side. Cutting all of the pieces and marking them on the right side will result in economical use of cloth and aid in avoiding mistakes which are likely to occur, es- pecially if the material has a nap or a right and a wrong side. The material must be unfolded and stretched evenly on a large table. Fasten the material with thumb tacks, keeping the warp and the woof at right angles. If the material is not even, it is well to pull the short corner. There is no definite rule for placing the patterns on the cloth. Place all the large pieces first and as economically as pos- sible. Place the smaller pieces next. Be care- ful to keep in mind the right and the wrong 22 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS side, the up and down, the stripes, the plaids, etc. The largest pieces should always be cut first. They should be placed with the widest part near the cut end of the cloth. If a two or three piece suit is required, be sure to place all the parts of the pattern on the cloth before beginning to cut them out. This may save a great do^l of trouble and inconveni- ence later on. The parts of the pattern should be placed on the material with the construction lines running in the same direction as the warp and the woof. The length of the garment ordi- narily follows the length of the selvage. Cutting the Material The cutting shears of By^" to 9'' should be well sharpened. Cut with an even long stroke to the end of the si i ears to avoid notches in the cloth. As patterns are drafted according to the measurements taken, there will be no allow- ance for seams or fullness. After the parts of the pattern are pinned exactly and securely to the material, trace all around them with a tracing wheel, tailors' chalk, or tailors' basting thread. Which of these is used will depend upon the material. Then cut the goods, allow- ing for seams, hems, and fullness according to the garment and the cloth. GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 23 For ordinary seams allow %'' to %"; for hems allow 2'' or 3" to 4" according to the gar- ment. If the garment laps in the front or in the back, care must be taken to make allowance for this lapping; otherwise it will be too tight. Joining of the Different Parts Join the different parts of the garment either with pins or with basting thread. Be careful that all the corresponding parts meet accu- rately, and also that the connecting points meet accurately. Fitting When all the parts of a garment are pinned or basted together, it is ready for fitting. This should be done in order to discover any mis- takes which may have been made. Mistakes do not always occur in the cutting, but they often occur through careless joining of the different parts. In fitting, the garment is ordinarily tried on with the wrong side out. The seam projection on the wrong side makes fitting easier. Per- sons who have one side different from the other should always be fitted with the right side of the garment out. Both sides of the garment 24 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS must then be adjusted. But for a person regu- larly built, only one side, the right side, is fitted. Changes Made in Fitting Waist too large: If the waist of a dress or apron is too large in the front or back, take in the surplus in the underarm seam. If it is too narrow, let out the underarm seam. Front and back of the waist too long : If the waist is too long, take it up on the shoulder seam ; if it is too short, let it out on the shoulder seam. If the waist is too high and narrow at the neck, notch it carefully all around. If a high neck is desired, take a straight piece of cloth and place this around the neck like a collar and mark it with pins or basting thread just below this line. Then notch carefully within 1/16'' of this line. If the neck is too large, a condition which should be guarded against as much as possible, take up the back and the shoulder seams. If the armseye is too large, a condition which, like the neck, should be care- fully avoided, take in the shoulder and the un- derarm seams. If the armseye is too small, notch it and cut it out carefully, especially around the lower curve of the armseye. Skirts can, according to the needs, be changed from top to bottom. Sleeves, if too long, are taken in at both the top and the bottom in order GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 25 to keep the elbow in its proper relative position. Many other mistakes may occur. It would be difficult to mention all of them. A little prac- tice will enable any student not only to see mis- takes, but also to correct them. Alterations After the fitting, the alterations are marked with a tracing wheel, basting thread, or tailors' chalk. The seam of the garment is then opened and placed on the opposite corresponding side. This side is then also marked. Great care must be taken to preserve the symmetry of the gar- ment. It is advisable to fit an altered garment a second time before the seams are stitched and finished, to make sure that every part is correct. Sewing No definite rule can be given for the sewing and finishing of garments, as seams and finish- ings depend on the type of the garment and the material used. Regularity of both seams and stitches, whether done by hand or machine, care- ful sewing of fastenings, good buttonholes, a neat and clean appearance, are essential to the construction of any garment. Pressing All pressing should be done, if possible, on the wrong side, but this is especially desirable 26 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS on colored cotton cloth, wool, or silk. A bottle with a sprinkler top or a bowl of water and a sponge are convenient for pressing cotton gar- ments. A woolen garment should be pressed on the wrong side, or if it must be pressed on the right side, a heavy piece of ticking should be put over the material to prevent it from be- coming glossy. If pressed on the wrong side, a piece of cheesecloth dipped in water and wrung out well should be used. \ CHAPTER III SEWING APRON A sewing apron should be worn during the sewing class. It not only protects the dress but the pockets are convenient for holding the neces- sary tools and materials during the work. One pocket should be used for the handkerchief only; the other for such tools and materials as may be used during the work. Fig. 8. — Sewing Apron 27 28 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Suitable Material Materials such as flaxon, dimity, lawn, muslin, cambric, percale, chambray, or any other ma- terial may be used. Material 27'' wide works up to better advantage than any other width. A C n — v <5 C3 ft: to in ED CO Pockets CO 27" Fig. 9 Required Measurements The w^aist measure — the band may be 2'' or 4" smaller than the waist measure, since the strings are added. SEWING APRON 29 The leng-th^this should be taken when the person is standing. Measure the length from the waist to the finger tips. This will give the length needed for the apron. Standard Measurements By standard measurements is meant those measurements which experience has proved are used for the average person. Waist— 26''. Length— 18''. Required Material To make this apron use % of a yard of cross-barred material 27" wide. No. 90 white thread for machine stitch- ing. No. 9 '^between" needles for hand sew- ing. Cutting 1. Measure 7" from the selvage on the width of the material and draw a thread. (See Fig. 9.) 2. Cut off this piece, and use it for the band and the strings. Lay it aside until the body of the apron is finished. Making 1. Take the body of the apron, which is a 30 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS piece 27" by 20'', and on the width (the narrower side) fold a hem which, when finished, is %" deep. 2. Crease this well. Pin or baste it down. In loosely woven materials, especially in cross- barred dimity, threads pull very easily. The pulling of a thread assures an even hem. 3. Stitch this hem by machine, close to the turned-in edge. Pockets 1. From each end of the hem measure 8" along the selvage and 8" along the opposite side. Draw a thread. This indicates the depth of the pocket. 2. Fold this over on the apron so that the hem is on the inside, and crease the fold well. 3. Divide this into two or three equal sec- tions. Put pins at these dividing points. By means of the dull-edged scissors indicate the lines which are to be stitched. 4. Stitch the dividing line by machine. On each divided line, make two rows of stitching %" apart. Start from the bottom of the pocket. Sides of the Apron 1. Baste each side of the pocket to the side of the apron. Baste with fine thread and very close to the edge. SEWING APRON 31 2. Baste a %'' hem on each side of the apron and stitch it by maclnne. Gathering the Apron for the Band 1. Find the middle of the apron and mark this with a basting thread of a contrasting color. 2. Make 2 rows of gathering stitches by ma- chine i/i'' apart. To gather the material by machine, loosen either the top or the lower ten- sion and adjust the machine to the longest pos- sible stitch. The thread which lies the straight- est on the material will be pulled up for the gathers. Preparing the Band 1. Take the piece of the apron which was laid aside and cut off a strip 3" wide for the band. 2. Make a %'' turn on all four edges and crease it well. If possible, press it with a flat- iron. 3. Fold the band crosswise and find the cen- ter. This will be the center of the front. Mark this with a contrasting thread. Measure 7'' from each side of the center front and mark this also with a contrasting thread. Putting the Band on the Apron ■ 1. Pin the right side and the center front of 32 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS the band to the wrong side and the center front of the apron. Fig. 10. — Detail of Sewing Band on Apron 2. Pin each side of the band marked with the contrasting threads to each side of the apron. 3. Draw up the gathering threads of the apron to fit the band. 4. Divide the fuUness so that there is very little in front. 5. Fasten the gathering threads by twisting them around the pins at each side. 6. Baste or pin the apron very evenly to the band. 7. Stitch the apron to the band by machine. Use the creased line of the band as a stitching line. SEWING APRON 33 8. Crease the seam open between the thumb and forefinger and then press it back on tlie band. 9. Next turn the band over on the right side of the apron and pin it so that it covers the first stitching. 10. Pin the extending portions of the band together. 11. Do not stitch it until the strings are put on the band. Stitching the Strings 1. Take the piece of material 4'' wide which was left from the band and on each one of the long sides make a %'^ hem and stitch it by ma- chine. 2. On the two narrow sides, fold a %/' hem and stitch this by machine. 3. Cut this piece crosswise into two parts. These are for the strings. Putting on the Strings 1. Make two pleats in both unfinished ends. Make these pleats so that they will fit exactly inside the band. Slip the strings into the open side of the band. 2. Baste the strings to the band very care- 34r GARMENTS FOR GIRLS fully, so that each side will look like one con- tinuous thread. 3. Stitch the band to the apron and stitch the strings into the band. This can all be done in one stitching*. Begin at the right side of the apron near the end of the gathering. Stitch all along the gathers and the one extending end of the band. Turn the corner and stitch the string to the band. Stitch this up, down, and up again, so that there will be three rows of stitch- ing. Stitch these close to each other. Next turn the corner and stitch all around the upper edge of the band; then repeat the three stitch- ing strips where the other string joins the band. Finish the remaining stitching on the band. Tie and finish the machine threads carefully. The seam of the apron may be finished with a feather, a chain, or any other fancy stitch. Marking Mark the initial with an outline stitch V below the hem and in the center of one of the pockets. TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Cut the material 21" by 27". 2. Cut off a strip 1" wide along the selvage. SEWING APRON 35 3. Fold and make the hem of the pocket. 4. Measure the depth of the pocket. 5. Turn over the piece for the pocket. 6. Mark the divisions of the pocket and stitch these by machine. 7. Fold 1/4" hem along each side. Baste and stitch these by machine. 8. Stitch 2 rows of gathering stitches on the ma- chine. 9. Cut the band. 10. Prepare the band. 11. Sew the band on the apron with the first stitch- ing. 12. Prepare the strings. 13. Baste the strings on the band. 14. Stitch the band on the strings and make the last stitching all around the band and the apron. 15. Mark the initials with an outline stitch. QUESTIONS 1. What materials may be used for this type of sewing apron ? 2. What are aprons used for? 3. What are the special purposes of this apron? 4. What is the special advantage of this apron ? 5. Is it economical to wear an apron? 6. How many different types of aprons can you name? 7. What different materials are used for each type? 36 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 8. Name some aprons and the suitable materials for each. 9. How many different seams are used in this apron ? 10. State two different ways of gatherinir. 11. Write a composition on the apron, telling how you made it. CHAPTER IV PLAIN KIMONO NIGHTGOWN Unbleached or bleached muslin (fruit of the loom, daisy cloth, longcloth, etc.), outing flannel, or cotton crepe are the materials most com- monly used for nightgowns. For fine night- gowns nainsook may be used. A plain kimono nightgown is chosen for the first problem because it is very simple in cori- struction, very practical, and one of the most popular garments worn. The principles for drafting used in it are basic, and once under- stood may be used on garments for a baby, a child, or an adult. Required Measurements 1. Entire length — This should be taken from the highest point of the shoulder to the floor. 2. Bust — This measure should be taken very looseh^ 3. Front waist length — This measure should be taken from the neck to the waistline. 37 38 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Standard Measurements 1. Total length 50''. 2. Bust 39''. 3. Length of front 16". Fig, 11. — Kimono Nightgown Hem around neck turned from the inside toAvard the outside, then turned back on itself To decide on the length of any garment, take the number of inches the garment should be from the floor and then add 1" for shrinkasre, 2" or 3" for the hem, and, if the person is still growing, add 2" or 3" more. Required Material Twice the length of material 36" wide PLAIN KIMONO NIGHTGOWN 39 is needed; 1% yard lace (% yard for the neck, 1 yard for the sleeves) ; No. 70 white cotton for machine stitching ; No. 8 Sharp needles; fine steel pins; em- broidery cotton for initials; a hard drawing pencil; one eraser; a tracing wheel. Preparing the Material Before Drafting the Pattern 1. See that the ends of the material meet exactly when they are folded together. Fre- quently in the process of manufacturing mate- rial it is pulled out of shape and one end is longer than the other. In this case take hold of the short corner and the corner that is diag- onally opposite from the short end. Pull on the short diagonal until the ends are even. 2. Fold the material crosswise through the middle and then lengthwise. 3. Pin the four selvages together carefully, putting the pins at right angles to the edge. Drafting the Pattern (See Fig. 12) After the material is folded first crosswise and then lengthwise, mark the corners A, B, C, D. AB is the length of the garment. AC is Vi of the width of the garment including the length of the sleeve. 40 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS AI From A measure 314'' on the AC line, and locate I. A I SHOULDER K Q Bust Line wf^ H R D Fig. 12. — Draft of Kimono Nightgown PLAIN KIMONO NIGHTGOWN 41 AJ From A measure Sy^'^ on the AB line, and locate J. Connect J and I by a curved line. This line indicates the back of the neck. AH From A measure 4^2^ on the AB line, and locate H. Connect H and I by a curved line. This line indicates the front of the neck. AE From A measure W on the AB line and locate E. This line indicates the waistline. AF From A measure 8'' on the AB line, and locate F. This line indicates the bust line. AK Measure 13'^ on the AC line, and locate K. This line indicates the width of the bust measure, including the necessary full- ness. KM From K draw a line 16'^ long and parallel to CD, and locate M. This line indicates the combined length of the sleeve and the underarm seam. FN From F draw a line 13'^ long and parallel to the line AC, and locate N. CL From C measure 8'^ on the CD line, and locate L. This line indicates the width of the sleeves. LO From L draw a line parallel to AC 3%'' long, and locate 0. This line indicates the underarm seam. 42 GARMENTS FOR GTRLS NP From N draw a line lVi>'' long on the KM line, and locate P. OP Connect OP by a curved line. This line is the underarm curve. DR From D on the DC line measure 3'', and locate R. This is measured upward on the selvage to form the hem. Place the yard- stick on R and draw a straight line to con- nect R with the underarm seam P. This line will form the side seam of the garment. DS Measure y/' on the DC line, and locate S. Draw the line RS. Cut away the corner SD so as to have the length of the garment the same from NS as it is from F to B. This will make the gown hang evenly. Mark on the AB line the words ^'center front.'' Cutting Out the Material Do not remove the jjins from the selvage but 1. Cut out the side seam LOPR. Use long even strokes to avoid notches. 2. Cut out the back neck JI. 3. Before unfolding the garment, run the tracing wheel over the front neck line HI. 4. Take out the pins and unfold the garment once. PLAIN KIMONO NIGHTGOWN 43 Making 1. Begin by pinning the seams together at the sleeve. 2. Lay the garment full length on the table and pin the side seams together carefully. Put the pins about 5'' apart and at right angles to the edge. 3. Side seam (French seam) : It is advis- able to let beginners use a yardstick and with the point of the scissors draw a line 14'' parallel to the edge. This will be a guide in stitching on the machine. 4. To make a French seam (Fig. 13) : (a) Place the two wrong sides of the garment together and stitch the first stitching on the right side. (b) Open the seam and press it flat with the thumb and the finger nail. Fig. 13. — French Seam A, First stitching; B, soam opened; C, wrong side of finished seam 44 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS (c) Trim the seam closely. Leave 1/16" of the material. (d) Turn the gown wrong side out and crease the seam very flat. The stitching must be at the very top edge of the seam. (e) Hold the seam together by putting a few pins at right angles to the edge. (f) Hold it up to the light to be sure that the first seam is trinmied evenly so that no raw edges will extend beyond the stitching, (g) Stitch again and make the seam as narrow as the material will allow. It should never be more than 1/4'^ wide. 5. Neck: (a) Turn a Vs" li^'i^ around the neck from the inside toward the out- side of the garment. (I)) Crease this well. (c) Turn it back upon itself. This will leave two turned in edges. (d) Baste these edges together. (e) Sew the lace to these edges. Be- gin the sewing at the center of the back. Hold the lace towards you. Use the overhand stitch. PLAIN KIMONO NIGHTGOWN 45 The lace may be a firm linen, Cluny, or torchon lace, but the best lace for this purpose is a narrow, tightly crocheted edg- ing or tatting. Cotton coarser than No. 70 should not be used, (f) For other methods of sewing on lace see Fig. 85. 6. Hem: (a) Try on the gown. Adjust it care- fully at the shoulder, front, and neck. (b) Have another student take a yard- stick and with one end on the floor (the end showing 1'') see if the length is even. If the length is not even a pin should be put at the shortest point and one corresponding to that length at the front, another at the side and one at the back. (c) Take off the gown and trim it evenly along the bottom, using the pins as a guide. (d) For the bottom hem crease and press a 14'' turn first. Then turn a II/2'' or 2'' hem. 7. Marking: Mark the initials with a pen- cil in the center of the front and 1'' from the 46 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS neck. Outline these with a chain or outline stitch. The first letter of either name may be traced on the center front of the gown or the initial may be purchased ready to be stamped on the gown. 8. Pressing : A bowl with a little water and a sponge should be near the ironing board. A bottle with a sprinkler top is convenient for pressing. Moisten the garment and press it. Be careful to see that the iron follows the warp and the woof threads. By following these wrinkles will be avoided. Fold according to Fig. 11. 9. Compute the cost : the time. TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Fold the material for drafting the pattern. 2. Draft the pattern. 3. Cut out the nightgown. 4. Make the side seams. 5. Fold the hem around the neck. 6. Baste the hem around the neck. 7. Try on the nightgown. 8. Adjust the length and decide on the width of the hem. ^ 9. Turn the hem. 10. Stitch the hem. 11. Sew the lace around the neck and sleeves. 12. Outline the initial. PLAIN KIMONO NIGHTGOWN 47 13. Press aud fold the nightgown. 14. Compute the cost. 15. Figure out the time. QUESTIONS 1. What materials are suitable for nightgowns? 2. What are the essential points to be considered in selecting the material? 3. What are the essential points to be considered in selecting the trimming? 4. What points are to be considered with regard to hygiene? 5. What seams have been used in making the nightgown ? CHAPTER V KIMONO APUON WITH TUQvS An apron is worn to protect the dress. The material must be selected to accord with the use of the apron. Tea and after- noon aprons may be made of dainty, soft ma- terials such as dimity, muslin, dotted Swiss, or other material. crepe, soft Fig. 14. — Partly Fitted Kimono Apron A, Apron too large over slioul- ders; B, shoulder fitted by means of tucks. 48 I>utchers' aprons may be made of a white coarse linen, carpenters' aprons of ticking or twilled jean, kitchen aprons of calico, percale, or gingham, hospi- tal aprons of KIMONO APRON WITH TUCKS 49 strong unbleached muslin, bleached muslin, or twilled jean, nurses' aprons of twilled jean, strong white muslin, or costume cloth. Fig. IT). — Kimoxo Apron (Front view) Fig. 10. — Kimono Apron (Back view) Aprons which cover the whole dress often re- place the house dress. They are frequently made on the kimono or princess style and may be made of chambray, seersucker, calico, ging- ham, or percale. (Figs. 14, 15, 16.) 50 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Standard Measurements Entire length of apron 52'', length of front from neck to waist 16", bust measure, 39''. Required Material Two lengths of percale 36'' wide, No. 70 white thread for the machine stitch- ing. No. 50 white thread for button- holes, No. 6 "between'^ needles for the buttonholes, 4 buttons i/>" in diameter. f *• «*> Fig. 17 KIMONO APRON WITH TUCKS 51 Parts of the Apron (See Fig. 17) 1. Body of the apron. 2. Pocket 5" by 6" made out of piece from the neck. 3. Belt 19" by 4''. The belt lining must be pieced. 4. Cuff 3'' by 16'' at center and 2" near the underarm seam. 5. 6, 7, 8. The remainder of the cloth is cut in 1'' strips of which 17'' are used for placket facing, 2 pieces of 8" each for the back and the front of the neck, and 2 pieces of 11" each for the sides of the neck. Preparing the Material for Drafting 1. Fold the material crosswise and then lengthwise. 2. Pin the selvages together as in the night- gown. Drafting the Pattern Let A be the upper corner of the folded edge and B the lower corner. Let C be the upper corner of the selvage edge and D the lower corner. Mark the fold AB ^^ center front.'' AE On the fold AB measure 16", and locate E. EX Draw EX parallel to AC. 52 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS EM On the line EX locate M 13'' from E. EMX is the waistline. M" Y W K pjjyrJ-SP'I ^ Jij_ iV/A/ar Line: m >4 o L B D Fig. 18. — Draft of Kimono Afkon with Tucks KIMONO APRON WITH TUCKS 53 AF On the line AB measure 8'' from A, and locate F. FN At F draw a line parallel to EM. On this line locate N 13'' from F. The line FN is the bust line. AK On the line AC measure 13", and locate K. The line AK indicates the width of the garment including the tucks. KM From K draw a line parallel to CD to meet EX at 11. CL On the line CD measure 8" from C, and locate L. CL indicates the width of the sleeve. NP On the line KM measure IViz" down from N, and locate P. Join and P by a curved line. LO From L draw a line Sy^" long parallel to AC, and locate 0. LOP indicates the un- derarm seam. DR On the line CD measure 3'' from D, and locate R. PR Join P and R. The lines LOPR indicate the underarm and the side seams of the garment. AI On the line AC measure 3" from A, and locate I. AJ On the line AB measure 3'', and locate J. AH On the line AB measure 4", and locate H. 54 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS IZ At I draw a line 3'' long and parallel to AB, and locate Z. - JZ Join J to Z. IT Extend IZ V further, and locate T. HT Join H to T. HTZI indicates the neck line. lY On the line AC measure 2'' from I, and lo- cate Y. YW On the line AC locate W 2'' from Y. At Y draw a line 6'' long parallel to AC. At W draw a line 6" long parallel to AC. These lines will indicate the places for the tucks. J)S. On the line CD measure I/2'' from D, and locate S. Join S and the line BD by a curved line. This line indicates the extra material that needs to be cut away so that the seam ND is not longer than the front FB. Tracing and Cutting Out 1. Trace the lines marked for the tucks very plainly so that they may be seen through the four folds. 2. Cut out the neck. 3. Cut out the front neck as traced, that is, V deeper than the back. 4. Cut out the side seam and the underarm of the apron. KIMONO APRON WITH TUCKS 55 5. Unfold the apron until there are only two thicknesses. 6. Cut the belt, the cuffs, the neck and the placket finishing. Care must be taken to cut these small pieces as they are shown in the Fig- ure. The pieces under the arms will be large enough to furnish all the material for the fin- ishings if they are cut carefully. The pocket which is 5" by 6" is made from the piece cut away at the neck. The belt which is 19'' by 4" and the lining (which must be pieced) are made from the pieces under the arm. The cuffs, which are 3'' by 16", are made from pieces under the other arm. The pieces of cloth for bands, etc., are cut from what remains. Each strip is 1" wide. (See Fig. 17, Nos. 5, 6, 7, 8.) 7. Each piece should be marked with the student's full name. Construction 1. Neck: (a) Make a %'' turn from the left to the right side all around the neck, notching the corners to the depth of the turn. (b) Take the strips of 1" material that were cut. Make a %" turn 56 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Fin. 10. — Detail of Neck Finish fok Aprox A, Fold of material before binding is put on; B, C, diflferent ways of mitering: corners; D, finished mitered corner; E, un- even basting; F, side basting. along both edges on the wrong side. After the turns are folded each strip will be %" wide. Care must be taken to have them KIMONO APRON WITH TUCKS 57 long enough, since some length will be taken up in the mitering of the corners. If a hot iron is convenient press all of the strips. (c) Baste the back and the front; then baste the side strips to the apron, being careful to make sure that the strips and the mi- ters match exactly. The warp and woof threads must meet at the corners. (d) Stitch the facing very close to each turn and finish the neck be- fore cutting the placket or the opening in the back. 2. Underarm: Make French seams or French fell. They should not be more than 1/4'' wide when finished. 3. Placket: (a) Cut from the neck down through the center of the back 16". (b) Hem the right or the top side with a %" hem. (c) Face the left or the under side with a strip 17" by 1". (d) Lock the corners of the placket at the neck. 4. Tucks: Crease the lines at Y and W. 58 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Pin the tucks and stitch them approximately y^^ wide. They are 11/2" apart. Stitch down 6" in the front and 5" in the back. Tie the threads on the wrong side. These tucks may vary in width. They may be made wider or narrower according* to the size of the girl. (See Fig. 14.) One side is adjusted by means of tucks. The other side shown is too loose and consequently does not fit. 5. Hem: Use the gauge. Turn and pin a 2'' or 3'' hem. Turn under 14''. Be careful to have a very even hem. Lay in very small pleats any surplus fullness. If the pleats are large they will form points or uneven places in the hem. 6. Pocket : The pocket is the piece cut from the neck piece. Face the top with a piece sim- ilar to the neck finish. Fold it lengthwise in halves and cut IV2" up from the bottom diag- onally to a point on both sides. Turn the edges under about Vi"- Place it 6" down from the waistline and 7'' from the center front. Baste or pin it in place. Stitch it to the apron. Be- gin at a point %'' down from the top at one edge; stitch diagonally across to a point I/2" from the side of the pocket; then stitch all around, finishing the other corner in the same way. This is done to strengthen the corners KIMONO APRON WITH TUCKS 59 and to prevent the pocket from tearing easily when the hand is put into it. 7. Belt : See page 97. TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Fold the material for drafting the pattern 2. Draft the pattern. 3. Cut out the apron. 4. Stitch the belt. 5. Cut the pieces for the finish of the neck, placket, pocket and sleeve. 6. Finish the neck. 7. Make the side seams. 8. Cut and finish the placket. 9. Try on the apron. 10. Decide on the size of the tucks at the shoulder. 11. Pin the belt to the waistline. 12. Decide on the size of the hem and turn it around the bottom. 13. Stitch the hem around the bottom. 14. Stitch the pocket to the apron. 15. Finish the sleeves. 16. Make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons. 17. Mark the apron with the initial. 18. Press the apron. 19. Fold the apron. 20. Compute the cost. 21. Figure out the time. QUESTIONS 1. In what way does the pattern for the apron differ from that of the nightgown ? 60 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 2. What materials may be used for this type of apron ? 3. What should be considered in selecting ma- terials for aprons? 4. What seams were used in making this apron? 5. What finishing did you use? 6. What precaution did you take in sewing the pocket to the apron? 7. What is characteristic of a good buttonhole? 8. How were the buttons sewed on? 9. Of what different materials are buttons made? CHAPTER VI KIMONO NIGHTGOWN WITH YOKE This garment, with the exception of the yoke, which is made of pink chambray, is made of un- bleached muslin. The material is folded and Fro. 20 — Kimono Nightgown with Yoke the pattern drafted and cut in exactly the same way as the kimono apron and nightgown. The measurements also are the same. 61 62 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Parts of the nightgown : Body, yoke, cuffs. Required Material Two lengths of 36'' wide material, 16'' B 16^ :R Fig. 21. — Draft of Kimono Nightgown with Yoke KIMONO NIGHTGOWN WITH YOKE 63 of 28'' wide pink chambray (be sure the color is fast), pink embroidery cotton, basting thread. No. 70 white stitching thread, needles, pins, pencil, eraser, and tracing wheel as used for other garments. Preparing the Material and Drafting the Pat- tern Fold the material and draft the pattern just as in the first nightgown; 3" or 31/2" niay be cut out for the width of the neck. (See Fig. 21 and Fig. 22.) Cutting Out the Garment 1. Cut the side seam. 2. Trace the neck line hut do not cut until the yoke is basted on. Drafting of Yoke (See Fig. 22) Fig. 22. — Draft of Yoke for Kimono Nightgown 64 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Cutting Out and Preparing the Yoke 1. Cut 16'' of pink chambray along the sel- vage. 2. Cut this piece through the middle length- wise. 3. Take one of these pieces and fold it through the center lengthwise, then crease the fold care- fully. 4. Fold it crosswise through the center and crease this carefully. This will form a square. Call the corner which has no selvage A. Letter the lower folded corner B, and the selvage corners C and D. AJ On the side AB locate J 3'' in from A. AI On the side AC locate I 3" in from A. JT Draw a line 3" long and parallel to AC, and locate T. IT Draw IT parallel to CD so as to form a square in the corner of the goods. AT Draw a diagonal lino from A to T. UT On the diagonal line AT measure 1" from T, and locate the point U. Draw the curved line connecting I, U, and J. This forms the neck line. Measure SV^" from the curved line toward the open edges of the square, and locate .Q. Put dots at intervals of about 1". These dots w^ill form a dotted line the curve of which runs parallel to the neck line JUL KIMONO NIGHTGOWN WITH YOKE 65 Crease and press firmly AI and AJ. These creased lines will indicate the middle of the front and the middle of the back and each shoulder line. Cutting Out 1. Cut through the four thicknesses around the upper and the lower 'Sy^' curved line. 2. Pin together firmly. 3. Cut a 3'' gage. Preparing the Yoke 1. Unfold the yoke. 2. Turn under 1,4" of these cut edges around the lower part of the yoke and around the neck. Crease each carefully. 3. Press the edges down with a hot iron. Fitting Yoke to Nightgown 1. Mark the center of the front and the cen- ter of the back. Spread on a table the night- gown on which the neck has been drafted. Use a contrasting thread along the folds. 2. Fit the yoke on the gown so that the neck curves match. 3. Pin the yoke smoothly and securely to the nightgown. Take care that the warp and the woof threads of both the yoke and the gown run in the same direction. 66 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 4. After the yoke is pinned, baste all around it with an uneven side basting stitch. 5. Baste a second time with small firm bast- ing stitches %'" from the lower edge. 6. Cut out the neck of the garment V4'' above the neck line of the yoke. 7. Crease down i/4'' around the curve of the neck of the gown to meet the yoke. 8. Baste the two edges together. Be care- ful to see that the white does not extend over the pink. 9. Stitch on the right side close to the upper edge, then stitch down the lower part of the yoke. 10. Tie the stitching threads on the wrong side and remove the basting threads by snip- ping them at short distances rather than by pulling them all at once. Cuffs 1. Take the piece left from the yoke and fold it once lengthwise. Then fold it again length- wise. 2. Cut this piece in four pieces length- wise. 3. Place one cut strip lengthwise along the selvage of the sleeve so that the cuff when turned back will come on the right side of the gown. KIMONO NIGHTGOWN WITH YOKE 67 4. Pin the cufP and the sleeve together, with the pins at right angles. 5. Stitch the cuff on by machine. Stitch %'' from the edge. 6. Open the seam. Press it flat between the thumb and finger-nail. Then turn the cuff over on the right side of the gown. 7. Turn the raw edge under i/i"- Crease it carefully. 8. Baste it down evenly and smoothly. 9. Stitch close to the upper and the lower edge of the cuff. Side Seam — Flat Fell 1. Turn the garment wrong side out and be- gin by pinning the ends of the sleeve evenly and securely. Fig. 23.— Flat Fell 2. Then lay the garment on the table and pin the side seams together evenly. 68 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 3. Stitch about %" from the cut edge. 4. Press the seam open with the thumb and finger nail. 5. From the stitching line turn a fold less than 1/4'' and crease this carefully. If a hot iron is convenient press the crease. 6. Unfold the seam and cut away the ma- terial from the front or lower seam, leaving only Vs'' of the material extending above the stitching. 7. Take the back or upper part of the seam and folding this over, trim off all surplus ma- terial. Only enough should be left to allow for a good seam. 8. Baste the seam down with small stitches. 9. Stitch close to the edge of the seam. Hem Try on the garment. Finish the bottom just as you did the kimono nightgown. Marhing Work all around the outline of the initials with a chain or an outline stitch. The center of the letter may be filled with French knots. Trimming A few scrolls may be drawn around the initial KIMONO NIGHTGOWN WITH YOKE 69 with a pencil, and these scrolls may be out- lined or f eatherstitched. Compute the cost : the time. TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Measure and fold the material for the night- gown. 2. Draft the pattern for the nightgown. 3. Cut out the garment except the neck. 4. Cut the material for the yoke. 5. Draft the yoke. 6. Turn under and press the edges of the 3"oke. 7. Baste the yoke to the garment. 8. Stitch the yoke to the garment. 9. Cut the cuffs. 10. Stitch the cuffs to the gown. 11. Make side seams. 12. Try on the garment. 13. Turn a hem at the bottom. 14. Stitch the hem. 15. Mark and embroider the initials. 16. Press. 17. Compute cost. 18. Compare wath ready-made garment. QUESTIONS 1. What materials were used in the nightgown? 2. Which is the stronger muslin, the bleached or the unbleached? 70 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 3. What are the characteristics of a good muslin? 4. Will the pink chambray fade? 5. What shall we do to prevent the colors from running in washing and thus spoiling the other clothes ? 6. How shall we set colors? 7. Is the pink chambray dyed in the piece or in the threads? 8. How do you recognize this? 9. Which is the better and why? 10. In what way did this nightgown differ from the first one? 11. What was repeated and what was new ? 12. After making this nightgown, what changes would you make if you made a gown for your little sister ? 13. What would you do to make the second one in less time and probably make it better? 14. Could you make a gown independently at home ? 15. Could you make a kimono wrapper after this nightgown pattern ? 16. What changes would you make? CHAPTER VII KIMONO NIGHTGOWN WITH TUCKS AND HAND- MADE TRIMMING This nightgown is made according to the same measurements as the p>^ttern just used. Instead of two tucks on each side of the shoul- ders as in the apron we have five, six or seven Fio. 24. — Ktatono Ntohtgown" Tnoks and hand-inade trimminof may l>e used to advantage tucks. These tucks should be made with great accuracy. The hand-made trimming as shown in Figs. 25 and 26 can be made at a cost of not more than 2 or 3 cents. This will show the 71 72 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS student how an inexpensive trimming is made. It will demand accuracy in measuring, es- pecially in the use of the %'' or Y/' according to the width of the scallops. The work on this Fig. 25. — Handmade Scallops for Nightgown In this garment the scallops are made before the bias piece is stitched on garment should reveal a higher degree of work- manship than that on the preceding garment. It should show the student's progress in sewing. The material best suited is muslin, or long cloth, or, for finer garments, nainsook. Required Materials Twice the length of the garment in ma- terial 36" wide. No. 60 white thread for machine stitching. No. 40 crochet cotton for featherstitching, No. 7 ^'between'' needles for featherstitching, 1% yards of fine bias lawn 2'' wide for the neck and sleeve trimming, No. 90 or 100 thread for making the scallops, No. 9 NIGHTGOWN WITH TUCKS 73 or 10 needle for making the scallops, a table cushion and a coarse needle to mark the scallops for the trimming. ~ Fig. 26. — Detail of Hand-made Trtmmixg for Nightgown Here the scallops are made after the bias piece is stitched to the garment Drafting the Pattern Draft the pattern just as you did for the apron with the tucks — with one exception as shown in Fig. 18. Draw lines for the extra tucks between I and Y, between Y and W, and beside W. These lines should be parallel to the tucks at I, Y and W. They should be 6'' long in front and 5'' long in the back. Tracing and Cutting Out The same precaution must be observed here as was observed for cutting out the neck of the apron. Trace distinctly with a tracing wheel on the four layers before the garment is un- folded. 74 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Construction The tucks should be made first. A I Y w Fig. 27. — Kimono Nightgown with Hand-made Trimming NIGHTGOWN WITH TUCKS 75 Side Seams These can be finished with a French seam or with a flat fell seam. Preparing the Trimming for the Neck and the Sleeves 1. Cut a piece of sheer, fine lawn on the true bias and then cut off strips 2" wide and 1% yards long. This will be sufficient for the sleeves and the neck. 2. Put the cut edges together and fold the strips through the center. Crease these well or press them with a hot iron. 3. Put this folded strip on the weighted table cushion and lay the tapeline on the strip %'' from the edge. 4. Take a very coarse needle and prick through the material every %'' or %'' ac- cording to the width you desire the scallops to be. 5. When the entire length is marked, thread a fine needle with No. 90 or 100 thread. At each pricked point make two overhand stitches over the folded edge. Draw the thread very firmly to form the scallop. 6. Put the needle between the two layers of the material to the prick. Pull out the needle and repeat the overhand stitch. 76 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Sewing Trimming to the Garment When the scallops are finished, turn under the edge of the neck i/'y'' ; turn in an even line. Turn an edge of the same width on the sleeve. 1. Take the scallops, start at the right side center of the back Let the trimming extend a little beyond the nightgown so as to cover the turn of the material on the wrong side. 2. Baste the scallops on the neck and sleeves. 3. Stitch the turned edge of the neck and the sleeves closely to the trimming. 4. On the wrong side of the garment turn un- der the rough edge of the scallops to make a 1/4'' hem. Use a gauge so as to be sure that the strip is the same in width throughout. 5. Crease this turn well. Cut away any sur- plus material under the turn. Baste this down so as to make a hem or fell seam. 6. Stitch by machine close to the turned edge. A finish of featherstitching on the right side is preferable. Featherstitch the tucks. Adjust the length. Hem Put in the hem as in the previous garments. Marking Outline or embroider the initials NIGHTGOWN WITH TUCKS 77 Pressing Press the featherstitching and the initials on the wrong side. Press the rest of the garment very carefully on the right side. The pressing of the embroidery on the wrong side will make it stand out in relief. QUESTIONS 1. What material has been used in the nightojown? 2. What material has been used to make the trim- ming? 3. Explain how the trimming has been made. 4. What is the difference between the tucks made in the nightgown and those made in the apron ? 5. What stitches have been used in the making of the nightgown ? 6. What seams have been used in the making of the nightgown? CHAPTER VIII WORK OR COOKING APRON This stj'le of apron lias been adopted for a cooking apron in several schools because it does not require much material and is easily laun- dered. The width is such that it can be easily passed flat through a laundry mangle and there are no buttons to come off. Used as a cooking apron, it may be made of muslin, twilled jean, Indian head, or any strong white material. If for housework, blue engineering cloth, calico, percale, or chambray may be used. Standard Measurements Length of the apron 48'' (measured from the shoulder to the lower edge of the apron). Bust measure 36". Required Material Measure the length from the waist to the point where the hem of the apron should come. Twice this amount less 3" is the amount needed for the apron. For instance, if the distance from the 78 WORK OR COOKING APRON 79 waistline to the lower edge of the apron is 3(r, twice this sum (60"), less 3" or 57" is the amount needed for the apron. Fig. 28. — Work or Cooking Apron Parts of the Apron I, body of the apron; II, piece cut out from the neck from which the pocket is made; III, gores ; IV, piece left from which the strings and the binding of the apron are cut; V, strings. (See Fig. 29.) 80 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Preparing the Material for Drafting the Pat- tern Take a piece of material II/2 yards in length and fold this through the center lengthwise. Pin the selvages together carefully and mark the corners A, B, C, and D. Drafting the Pattern Let the corner AB be the length needed for the apron and AC the width. AE From A on the AB line mark 6", and lo- cate E. EH From E draw a horizontal line 3'' long, parallel to the AC line, and locate IT. EF From E on the AB line draw a line 2" long, and locate F. FG From F draw a line V long and parallel to the EH line, and locate G. GH Connect GH by a straight line. This line will form the seam in the yoke in the middle of the back. FI From F draw a line 4" long, and locate I. IJ From I draw a line 4'' long and parallel to the AC line, and locate J. This line indi- cates the chest line. IK From I on the AB line measure 6", and locate K. KJG Connect KJG by a curved line. This line indicates the neck line of the apron. WORK OR COOKING APRON 81 Fig. 29. — Draft of Work or Cooking Apron 82 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS KL From K on the AB line measure 8", and locate L. LM Extend the L line parallel to the AC line, and locate M. This line indicates the waist line. KN Extend the K line 1", parallel to the AC line, and locate N. This line indicates the bust line. JO From J draw a line 3" long and parallel to the AC line, and locate 0. MP From M on the ML line measure 6", and locate P. This line indicates the back part of the apron. PNOH Connect PNOH by a curved line. This line indicates the underarm seam and the shoulder seam of the apron. Side Gore MR From M on the CD line measure 8", and locate R. RS From R measure a line 6'' long and paral- lel to the AC line, and locate S. This line indicates the width of the side gore. PR Place the ruler on P and R and from P draw a diagonal line ly/' lt)ng, and locate X. MXSC Connect these points by a curved lino. This will form the outer seam of the gore WORK OR COOKING APRON 83 which is added to the apron. (See Fig. 29 III.) Cutting Wliile the apron is still folded, cut out (1) the neck line KJG, (2) the center back GH, (3) the shoulder and curved arm line HONPM, (4) the gores CSXM. (5) Cut off V from the neck piece II and from the piece IV as indi- cated by the long dotted line. (6) Cut out the strings. (See Fig. 29.) Making 1. Take the folded apron and the folded gores and place the gores with the point C to the point M. The wider part M will meet Z. This point is raised about V above D to allow for the curve around the back of the apron. 2. Pin the selvage of the apron and the sel- vage of the gores with the right sides together. 3. Stitch by machine as narrow a seam as the selvage will allow. 4. See that the bottom of the apron is even and that there is a good curve at the side. 5. Take the binding previously cut and pin the right side of the binding to the right side of the apron. Adjust the binding to the part from which it was cut. (Have the connecting points of the apron and the facing meet.) 84 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 6. After these parts are all pinned in place, join the bindings together, stitch the seams, and then press them open. 7. Stitch the binding to the apron by Vs" line all around the body and the neck of the apron. 8. Press this seam open and turn the bind- ing on the left side of the apron. 9. Crease the edges very flat so that the stitching is visible, and stitch again on the right side close to the edge. 10. Measure with a gauge, a %" binding. Turn the cut edges under. Be careful that the binding is even all around the apron. 11. Pin and press this before stitching. 12. Stitch the binding very close to the inner edge. 13. Close the back with a French or a flat fell seam. Pocket 1. Hem or bind the pocket at the top. 2. Outline initials on the pocket. 3. Measure 5" from the center front and 14" down from the neck and stitch the pocket to the apron. Strings 1. Cut the strings 16'' long and 2i/o'' wide. (See V of Fig. 29.) WORK OR COOKING APRON 85 2. Fold each of these lengthwise through the center and stitch them together. 3. Press the seam open and then turn the strings to the right side. 4. Stitch on the right side all around the two long and the one short edges. 5. Pin the strings to the apron, 1" from the waist line and at right angles to it. 6. Stitch the strings on the right side of the apron. 7. Stitch along the edge of the apron. Press and fold the apron. Compute the cost: the time spent in making the apron. TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL Steps in Making the Cooking or Work Apron 1. Fold the material. 2. Draft the pattern. 3. Cut out the apron. 4. Sew on the gores. 5. Cut out the bindings, the pocket and the strings. 6. Pin the binding all around the apron and the neck. 7. Pin and stitch the seams in the binding. 8. Stitch the binding to the apron. 9. Open the seam of the binding. 10. Turn the binding to the wrong side. 86 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 11. Stitch the binding very close to the edge all around the body and the neck of the apron. 12. Turn the raw edge of the binding under so as to leave a finished binding of y.^^' to %''. 13. See that the binding is even all around. Use the gauge to test, then stitch very close to the turned edge. 14. Close the opening at the back with a French or a flat fell seam. 15. Prepare the pocket, (a) Outline the initials, (b) hem the top, (c) turn under the edges around the vsides and the bottom, (d) stitch the pocket to the apron. 16. Make the strings. 17. Stitch the strings to the apron. QUESTIONS 1. Name suitable materials that can be used for the cooking apron. 2. Name suitable materials that can be used for aprons for housework. 3. How are the edges of this apron finished? 4. Name different ways that the edges could be finished. 5. What seams were used in the construction of this apron? G. How are the strings made ? CHAPTER IX CORES 1. First Method (See Fig. 30). Ordinarily, material varies in width from 27" to 36'', but this is not wide enough for the bot- tom of some of the garments of adults. To pro- vide the necessary width, gores are needed and these may be cut in different ways. Figure 30 shows a nightgown cut out of 36'' material. If the width BD is not sufficient, we may add a gore. By cutting part LONMD from under the sleeves all along the diagonal to the bottom, we may obtain two gores or rather four half gores. One of these gores may be sewed to the line ND by placing the line NOL with the selvage at DM. These, then, may be sewed with the broader top part LO to the lower pointed part D. 2. Second Method (See Fig. 31). To add gores to 27" material If 27" mate- rial is used, as in cotton crepe, not only gores are needed to widen the bottom, but frequently the sleeves also must be added. (See Fig. 31 I.) 87 88 GARMENTS FOK GTRLS The (lotted line AB indicates the center front and the length of the garment. The line CND indicates the selvage of the Fig. 30. — Fjkst Method of Putting on Gores 27'' material ; MDN, the added gore ; CH JN, the added sleeve. The sleeve should measure 5". It is more economical to buy and cut two night- gowns because one length of 1 V4 yards will make GOEES 89 the four gores and sleeves for both nightgowns. (See Fig. 31 11.) Take a piece of material li/4 yards long. This piece will furnish material for four gores and Fig. 31. — Secoind Method of Putting on Gores and Sleeves four sleeves. As shown in Fig. 31 II, the third and fourth sleeve must be pieced from parts cut away at the square neck. 90 GAKMENTS FOR GIRLS 3. Third Method (See Fig. 32). AB Fold the material AB lengthwise. Keep the selvage edges on the right. ABCD Mark the npper left-hand comer A, the lower left-hand corner B, the upper right-hand corner C, and the lower right- hand corner D. LO Locate the underarm seam LO. F Locate the middle point of DL and mark it F. OLF From measure 3y2" on the edge OL. Connect and F by a lead pencil line. Cut away the corner LOF. This is the gore. To sew on this gore, place the larger part of the gore OL so that D will meet L on the DH line. Be sure that the selvage edge L of the gore is next to the selvage edge D. In many French chemises and nightgowns, one finds that the back gores are often con- siderably longer and wider than the front gores. The best line and the neatest work are ob- tained by sewing the selvage edges of the gores to the selvage edges of the garment. If only one gore is used and two bias edges of the gore are sewed to the selvage edges of the garment, the straight edge is felled GOEES 91 over the bias edge of the gore and a flat fell is made. Fig. 32. — Third Method of Adding Gores CHAPTER X . COOKING OR SERVING APRON This apron, like the kimono apron, may have the skirt closed or open. If the skirt is closed, it often takes the place of a dress skirt, and worn with a white waist it makes a very satis- factory garment for the student in a food lab- oratory, for the nurse in a hospital, or for the waitress whose work requires a clean and neat appearance. For nursing and cooking aprons such materials as Indian head, twilled jean, cos- tume cloth, muslin, crash, drilling, etc., may be used. For housework any material suggested for the kimono apron may be chosen. Standard Measurements The same standard measurements as for the kimono apron are used : Length 52", length of front 16", bust 36". Required Material Twice the length of 36" wide material, No. 90 white thread for stitching, white bastino- thread. No. 8 needles 92 COOKING OR SERVING APRON 93 *^ Sharps'' for hasting, No. 8 needles *^betweens" for huttonholes, No. 50 white thread for buttonholes, No. 36 Fig. 3.3. — Cooking or Serving Fig. .34. — Cooking or Serving Apron (Front view) Apron (Back view) white thread for sewing on buttons, No. 6 or 7 needles ^^ Sharps" for sewing on buttons, 6 white pearl buttons 1/2" in diameter. 94 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Parts of the Apron (1) Body of apron, (2) pocket obtained from the neck piece, (3) facings to strengthen the shoulder pieces, (4) bias facings for the neck and pocket finish, (5) belt. (See Fig. 32.) Preparing the Material for Drafting the Pat- tern Straighten the material, fold it first length- wise and then crosswise, and pin according to the directions for the kimono apron. Drafing the Pattern (See Fig. 32). AB the length of the apron. AC 14 of the entire width. AE From A measure 16" on the AB line, and locate E. This indicates the waist line. EL From E draw a line 12'' long and parallel to the AC line, and locate L. This indi- cates the point where the side seam will come. AF From A measure 8" on the AB line, and locate F. This line indicates the bust line. AJ From A measure 4'' on the AB line, and locate J. This line indicates the chest line. AG Draw a 4'' square in the upper left-hand corner A, locating thus AIGJ. These lines indicate the neck line. AH From A measure 9" on the AC line, and COOKING OE SERVING APRON 95 locate H. This line indicates the width of the chest. 9 — ^^ I ...i :C Fig. 35. — Draft for Cooking or Serving Apron 96 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS HK From H draw a line 16" long and parallel to the CD line. LM From L draw a line upward 3" long and parallel to the CD line. This indicates the underarm opening. ON Draw a line IV2" below and parallel to IH, and locate ON. This line indicates the front shoulder opening. SS' On each side of N draw a straight line %" long, and locate S and S'. Connect S, S' and O by straight lines. This will form a wedge which is S'O IV2'' wide between S and S' and runs to a point at 0. This will adjust the apron to the slope of the shoulders. Round the corners S and S' like the corners OGT. (See Fig. 35.) SUM From S draw a curved line, SUM. Curve it Vli'' ^t T and 4" above K on the KH line. DR From D on the DC line measure 3", and locate R. Tracinc) and Cutting 1. Trace with the tracing wheel all the drafted lines around the neck and shoulders. 2. Cut out the rounded neck JGOI. Then cut out along the traced line the underarm and side seam HSS'UM. 3. When cutting the shoulder seam NO, be COOKING OR SERVING APRON 97 very careful that the two fronts are short and that the part S'OIH remains for the back. This makes the back longer so that it may but- ton over the shoulder on to the front piece. 4. On the four shoulder pieces cut on each side of N the wedge shaped piece NSO. This is %" from each side of NS slanting to a point atO. 5. Round one corner of the front piece by marking %'' down on each side and cutting to that point. When this corner is rounded, fold each shoulder piece through the center length- wise and cut each remaining corner exactly like the first one. 6. Cut out 5 for the belt, 3 for the shoulder facings, and 4 for the bias bands. Save 2 cut out from the neck for the pocket. (See Fig. 35.) 7. Mark each piece on the wrong side with its full name. Makinr/ the Apron 1. Belt: The four pieces marked 5 are used for the belt. Each pair must be sewed together so that the seam comes at the back. (a) Join two pieces together with a plain seam and crease this seam well. 98 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS (b) Place the belts with the right sides and seams together. Piu two long sides and one short side evenly to- gether. (c) Mark with the yardstick a straight line i/4'' from each edge of the belt. (d) Follow this line and stitch the three sides by machine. (e) Open each seam and crease it flat. (f) Miter each corner. (g) Start at the small stitched end to turn the belt right side out. After you have it turned back 1" or 2" (so as to make a tiny pocket) insert a yard- stick and draw the belt over it. This will facilitate the process of turning the belt right side out. (h) Straighten the seams of the belt and crease them very flat so that the stitching will be at the very edge. Use pins to pull out the corners. Make these corners square. (i) Finish the short open end either round or square, and turn both sides exactly alike. (j) Stitch very close to the edge all around the belt. It is advisable to COOKING OR SERVING APRON 99 press the belt before it is stitched the second time. 2. Shoulder facing : The four pieces marked 3 are used to reinforce and face the shoulder pieces. Before basting them to the apron, stitch %" ^^loci on the lower side of each facing and then place the wrong side of the apron next to the wrong side of the facing, being careful that the warp and the woof run in the same direction. 3. Making of the bias strips: Cut the bias strips as indicated in the drafting of the pattern. There will be four strips 3'' wide. Fold the cut edges together and cut through the center fold. This will give a piece IV2" wide. Again join these pieces and fold carefully in half and cut through cen- ter fold. Join these. One long piece %" wide will remain. A piece II/2 yards long is required for each front and the same amount for each back. To prepare the facing fold this %" strip with cut edges together at the center and crease them well ; or better, press them with a hot iron. Bias facings or bindings folded in 100 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS this manner will give satisfactory re- sults. 4. Basting the bias facing to the apron : Before basting the bias facing to the apron, see that the shoulder facing is Fig. 36. — Detail of Sewing Bias Facing on Cooking or Serving Apron A, Facinj; stretched into shape; B, wrong side of edge turned on the right side of apron; C, facing basted to apron; D, first stitching near the outside edge of bias piece; F, sec- ond stitching near the inner edge of bias piece. basted carefully and that the corners are well rounded. (a) Turn and crease well (or press with hot iron) an %" even turn from the left to the right side around the edge of the neck and of the armseye of COOKING OR SERVING APRON 101 the front and the back of the apron. (b) Take the folded bias piece be- ginning at the underarm seam and ap- ply this as a facing on the riglit side of the apron. Make sure that the edge of the bias is exactly even with the first turn. Baste the facing with an un- even basting stitch, taking care to stretch the outer edge of the bias fac- ing almost to a semi -circle around the curves of the neck and of the armseye. The facing must be stretched so that it lies perfectly flat around the curves without the slightest wrinkle. At the neck where the curves are re- versed the imvard curve must be stretched. Baste only around the outer edge. When both the front and the back are basted, stitch very close to the outer edge, using as tine a needle as the thread will allow. When the first stitching is done on both the front and the back, then remove the basting thread and stitch the lower edge. (Fig. 36.) Joining the back to the front : Join the back to the front with a French seam. 102 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Putting ill the hem: (1) Try the apron on, (2) adjust the length, (o) put in the hem as done in previous garments. Sewing on the pocket : See page 58 for description of pocket of kimono apron. Stitching the belt to the apron : Stitch the belt to the apron by plac- ing the seams of the belt at the center of the back of the waist. Stitch two parallel rows of stitching on each side of the seam of the belt. Buttonholes : Sewing on buttons : Pressing and folding: Moisten the apron with a sponge, press and fold carefully. Compute the cost : the time. TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Fold the material for drafting tha pattern. 2. Draft the pattern. 3. Cut out the apron. 4. Cut out the belt. 5. Make the belt. 6. Reinforce the shoulder seams. 7. Cut the bias binding. 8. Prepare the bias binding. 9. Pin and stitch the bias binding to both front and back of the apron. COOKING OR SERVING APRON 103 10. Sew up the side seams. 11. Prepare the pocket. 12. Try on the apron. 13. Decide where the buttons and buttonholes should come. 14. Pin the belt to the apron. 15. Pin the pocket to the apron. 16. Adjust the length. 17. Turn the hem at the bottom. 18. Stitch the hem at the bottom. 19. Stitch the belt to the apron. 20. Stitch the pocket to the apron. 21. Make the buttonholes. 22. Sew on the buttons. 23. Mark the apron with the initial. 24. Press the apron. 25. Fold the apron. 26. Compute the cost. 27. Figure out the time. QUESTIOiNS 1. What materials can be used for this type of apron ? 2. How was the bias binding cut? 3. What precautions are necessary in sewing the bias binding together? 4. What is the difference between a true bias and a garment bias ? How do you recognize each ? 5. When can a garment bias be used and where must the true bias be used? 6. What seams were used in this garment? CHAPTER XI PETTICOATS The petticoats shown in Fig. 37 are cut with- out the assistance of paper patterns. The measurements are marked directly on the cloth. Fig. 37. — Six-gored Flaxnel Petticoat with Scalloped Edge A, Double-hemmed placket; B, division of the band; C, fell and catch-stitched seam 104 PETTICOATS 105 A petticoat for either children or adults may be cut with 2, 4, or 6 gores, depending on whether the material has a right or a wrong side. If it has a right or a wrong side then either 2 gores or 6 gores are necessary. Petticoats may be made of outing flannel, sateen, woolen shirting, cambric, muslin, etc. Standard measurements for a girl of 15 years : Waist 26", length 22''. Outing Flannel Petticoat Required Material 11/4 yards cotton flannel or 2 lengths of the material. No. 70 white thread for stitching, No. 50 white thread for bast- ing. No. 40 white thread for button- holes. No. 6 needles, 1 white button %'' in diameter, No. 40 crochet cotton if, instead of a hem, crocheted scallops are preferred, No. 6 crochet hook. Four-Gored Petticoat A four-gored petticoat may be made of cot- ton flannel or any other material which has no right or wrong sides. Cutting (See Fig. 38 I). Cut ll^ yards of material 27'' wide into two equal parts. 106 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS On the selvage edge of one of these two parts measuring 22V2'' long, cut a strip 221/2'' long and 10'' wide. This is for the front gore. AB Fold this strip lengthwise. (See AB, Fig. 38 I.) Keep the fold to the left and the cut edges to the right. AC From the upper folded edge A measure 31/^" on the upper edge, and locate C. CD With a ruler, draw a sharp line from C to the lower right-hand corner of the goods. See D (I) in Fig. 38 I. Cut along the line CD. What remains is the front gore. From the 17" of goods left uncut, cut a band 2" wide along the selvage. The re- maining goods will form the back gore (II). Fold this piece in the center. (See Fig. 38 II.) On the fold cut down 10" for a placket. Place the remaining half of the goods (221/^" long) with the cut edges at the top and the bottom and the selvage edges at the sides. (See Fig. 38 III.) AE From the upper left-hand corner measure 9" or one-third of the width of the mate- rial on the cut edge. Mark that point with a pin. DE' From the lower right-hand corner meas- ure 9" on the cut edge DE', and put in a PETTICOATS 107 2^'/a 5' D3 ^4^.K4(i. L/ Vs CrAfTS/^ 3 AND JO' azy.. Fig. 38. — Draft for Petticoats, Foub and Six Gobes 108 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS pin. Draw a line connecting the two pins. EE' Cut along the line EF/. EL From the top of each bias EE' measure 221/^", or the side length. Put in a pin at L. LM Draw a curved line LM connecting the pin with the bottom of the skirt. Ma kin (J 1. Pin one bias side of the front gore to the selvage edge of the side gore. 2. Pin the bias ^dgG of this side gore to the straight edge of th(; back gore. Be sure that all the gores are even at the waist. 3. Pin on the other side gore the same as the first one. 4. Pin the back gore to the side gore. 5. Stitch all these seams. 6. Make each seam a flat fell seam. This may be stitched by machine or catch stitched. 7. Fold the front gore straight down the cen- ter. 8. Locate a point 3i//' on encli side of the center fold A and locate C. 9. Locate a point IVj" from the top A. 10. Join this point to C by a straight line. 11. Cut away the goods on this line. This PETTICOATS 109 Fig. 39. — Placket with Uneven Hems (Wrong side of material ) A, First turn of hems folded and marked; B, second turn folded; C, narrow hem overlaps the large one; D, hems stitched and bottom of placket reinforced. 110 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS cutting away will prevent the bulging of the skirt in front. 12. Make a double-hemmed placket in the back, 10" in length (Fig. 39). 13. Divide the skirt into 4 parts, one point at the center of the front, one point between the center and the back on each side. Mark these points with thread of a contrasting color. Put tin (J on the Band 1. Run two gathering threads around the top of the skirt. Put the first one in %" from the edge of the skirt and the second one Vs" fi^om the first one. 2. Make sure that the belt is 3'' or 4" longer than the waist measure. This extra allowance is to be divided 1'' or 2'' for overlapping, and a turn of at least T' at each end of the band at the place where the strain comes on account of the button and the buttonhole. 3. Measure off from each end the amount to be turned over for the strengthening of the end. Mark these points with a thread of a contrasting color. 4. Using these points as ends of the band, divide the remainder of the band into 4 equal parts. Mark each point with a thread of a con- trasting color. PETTICOATS 111 5. Draw up the shirring strings of the skirt to meet the band approximately. 6. Pin the right side of the band to the wrong side of the skirt. 7. Be sure that the middle of the front of the band meets the middle point of the skirt. Pin it securely. 8. At both ends of the band, turn and pin back the amount aUowed for strengthening the button and buttonliole. 9. Pin the end of the placket to what is now the end of the band. 10. Bring together the mark for the center of each side of the skirt and of the center of each side of the band. 11. Push the shirring of the skirt about 1" from the center of the side of the band toward the back. This will give more fullness to the back and less across the front and the hips. 12. Pin or baste the skirt and band together. 13. Draw up the shirring threads so that the skirt fits the belt exactly. 14. Fasten the shirring threads by winding them around the pins at each end of the band. 15. In stitching the band to the skirt keep about 1/4'' from the edge. 16. Open the seam and crease it down. Then press it back again. 112 GARMENTS FOR' GIRLS 17. Turn under the raw edge of the band. 18. Bring this turned edge to meet the shir- ring threads. 19. Baste or pin the band down. 20. Stitch all around the band. See that the Fig. 40. — Detail of Sewing a Band to Garment edges are square and that the end of the belt and the end of the skirt meet exactly. Fwishwp the Bottom The bottom may be hemmed or scalloped. Six-Gored Petticoat with Ruffle Suitable Material Sateen, silk, chambray, crepe, seersucker or gingham may be used. PETTICOATS 113 Required Material For a petticoat with a pleated ruffle as shown in Fig. 41, 2i/4 or 'ly^ yards of goods 36'' wide are needed. Tlie exact amount is determined by measuring the length of the skirt, subtracting the width of the ruffle and nmltiplying the results by 2. For example, if the skirt when finished is to be 36'' and a ruffle 6" deep is desired, the length of the skirt would be 36"— 6" or 30". This multi- plied by 2 would give 60"; that is, you would need 60", or 1 2/3 yards of goods for the main part of the petticoat. To this estimate, the ruffle nmst be added. Cutting the Front and the Back Gores 1. A petticoat made from material either 27" or 36" wide, with a right and a wrong side, may have six gores. 2. The front and the back gores are cut the same as in the previous petticoat. (See Fig. 38 T, IT.) 3. Each side consists of two gores, and these four gores are cut from one length of the goods. (See Fig. 38 IV.) 114 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Cutting the Side Gores Take the length of the material and fold it once lengthwise. Fh; 41. — Pleated Ruffle Sewed to a Scalloped Petticoat Lay the goods on the table with, the fold at the left. AB Mark the upper left-hand corner of the goods A and the lower end of the fold B, the upper right corner C, and the lower corner D. (See IV.) PETTICOATS 115 AE From A measure one-third of the dis- tance AC, and locate E. BM From D measure one-tliird of the dis- tance BD, and locate M. EM Connect E and M by a straight line. Cutting 1. Cut tlirough the fold AB. 2. Cut the goods along EM. There will now be four gores. Making 1. To each side of the front gore CI) (1), join one of the gores just cut. For example, AB (IV) to CD (I). 2. To each of the bias sides of these gores pin one of the straight sides of tlie gores cut according to Fig. 38. (For example, join the side CD to EM of the same ligure.) Make sure that the petticoat is even at the top. Do not worry about the unevenness at the bottom. This can be remedied later when tlie gores are put together. 3. Pin the straight side of the last gore to the bias side of one of the other gores. 4. Join the last two sides together. 5. Sew the seam with a flat fell seam. Out- ing flannel is best felled on the wrong side. 116 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Sateen, silk, or any fancy material is best felled on the right side. 6. Measure 1'' from the top of the center fold of the front gore and mark the point with a pin. 7. Measure 6'' on each side of the top of the center fold and the front gore and put a pin at each end. 8. Connect the pin at each side with the pin at the center by a straight line. 9. Cut the goods along these two lines. This will make the front gore fit properly. 10. Measure the length of the skirt from the top to the bottom at the center of the back gore. 11. Measure each side seam from the top and put in a pin to mark the same distance as the back of the skirt. 12. Trim off the bottom of the skirt so as to make it even. Use pins as a guide. 13. The bottom may be finished with either a hem or a ruffle. The Ruffle 1. The amount needed for a shirred ruffle is one and one-half times the width of the skirt, or a little less. 2. Join the parts of the ruffle and make it continuous. PETTICOATS 117 3. The bottom of the ruffle may be finished with tucks, hem, embroidery or scallops. 4. Divide the ruffle into 4 equal sections and mark these sections with a thread of a contrast- ing color. 5. Shir then the top of the ruffle. This may be done in three ways: (a) By using the ruf- fler on the machine; (b) by loosening the ten- sion and making the stitch longer; (c) by gath- ering by hand. The second method is the easier and quicker. P'litthig on the Ruffle The ruffles may be put on (a) by means of the receiving tuck, (b) by means of finishing })raid, or (c) by means of a French seam. The first of these is the method most used. ReceiviiKj Tuck 1. Divide the skirt into four sections and mark each with a pin. 2. Divide the ruffle into four sections and mark each with a thread of a contrasting color. 3. Pin each of the points marked by a thread to a point on the petticoat marked by a pin. 4. Be sure that the wrong side of the petti- coat meets the wrong side of the ruffle. 118 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 5. Draw up the threads so that the ruffle meets the petticoat at all points between the pins. Fig. 42. — Ruffle Attached to Garment with a Receiving Tuck A, RufHe, stitched to the garment: B, seam opened and creased back; C, .%" tuck; D, crease of tuck stitched on the ruffle ; E, embroidery edge sewed to insertion with a French seam. 6. Divide the fullness of the ruffle evenly in each section. 7. Pin or baste the ruffle on to the petti- coat. PETTICOATS 119 8. Stitch the ruffle to the petticoat as close to the edge of the ruffle as is practicable. About 1/4'' or y^' is usually needed. 9. Open the seam and then press it back on the skirt. 10. Straighten out the petticoat so that the right side of the ruffle and the right side of the petticoat are on top. 11. From the stitching measure 'J4'' by means of a gauge. Grease the skirt so as to have a continuous line all around the skirt and %'' from the stitching. 12. Turn this creased line down upon the Stitching so as to cover the edge of the ruffle. (See Fig. 42.) 13. Baste this crease to the ruffle. 14. Stitch close to the edge of this crease. 15. Turn the skirt wrong side out and stitch down the pleat at the top of the ruffle. Ruffle finished by means of a finishing braid. (Fig. 43.) The putting of the ruffle to the garment and the finishing with a bias binding or braid is shown in Fig. 43. Flealed Ruffle (See Fig. 41). For a pleated ruffle ordinarily 3 yards or 3 widths of the material are used. 1. Join the pieces of the ruffle and make a narrow hem. The hemmer may be used. 120 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 2. Divide the ruffle into eight sections and mark the sections by means of contrasting thread. 3. Draw with tailor's chalk, lines from top to bottom and lY/' apart. Fin. 43. — Ruffle Attached wtt?t a Fixishing Braid 4. Fold over each of these lines and press each with a hot iron. 5. Take each fold that is pressed and make a pleat %'' deep. 6. Pin each pleat in place. 7. Baste these pleats with a strong thread. 8. Be careful not to make a back stitch, which PETTICOATS 121 would later prevent the adjusting of the ruffle to the petticoat. 9. Press well with a hot iron on the wrong side. Lay a piece of damp cheesecloth over the pleats. 10. Sew the parts of the ruffle together and adjust the sections of the ruffle to the sections of the petticoat according to the directions given for a shirred ruffle. Scalloped Petticoat With Ruffle 1. Fold the petticoat down the center of the front. 2. Divide each half of the bottom into four equal parts and mark each division with a pin. 3. Find the center of each of the two pins and from this center measure 3'' toward the top of the skirt. Put a pin there. 4. When all the pins are put in, join each lower edge to each pin which is just above it, by means of a straight line drawn with tailor's chalk. 5. Cut the goods on these lines so as to form the scallops. (See Fig. 41.) 122 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Putting the Ruffle on the Petticoat 1. Take the petticoat and pin the section of the petticoat to the section of tiie ruffle. 2. Adjust the ruffle to the petticoat. 3. Pin the ruffle to the petticoat so that the top of the ruffle comes about a quarter above the tojis of the scallops. 4. Baste the ruffle on the petticoat. 5. Turn the petticoat on the right side and baste down the scallops onto the ruffle. 6. Stitch the scallops close to the edge on the right side. 7. Turn over to the wrong side and cut away the ruffle so that only a ^^" edge remains. This edge may be pinked or overcast. 8. If the material is closely woven and does not easily fray, these edges may be left raw. Raw edges are left on many French petticoats. 9. Turn to the right side and stitch the scal- lops a second time. TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Cut off the length of the material. 2. Cut oft* the front gore, the back gore and the band, from one length. 3. Cut the other length into two or four gores, depending on the material. 4. Pin the side gores to the back gore. PETTICOATS 123 5. Stitch the seams. 6. Make the placket. 7. See that the petticoat is cut out around the front, and run two gathering threads at the top. 8. Put on the band. 9. Make the bottom of the petticoat even and fin- ish the bottom. 10. Make the buttonhole. 11. Sew on the button. 12. If the petticoat has a ruffle (a) prepare the ruf- fle; (b) prepare the bottom of the skirt for the ruf- fle; (c) stitch the ruffle to the petticoat. 13. Press the petticoat. 14. Fold the petticoat. 15. Compute the cost. 16. Figure out the time. QUESTIONS 1. Name materials that are suitable for petticoats. 2. What measurements are required for a petti- coat? 3. What precautions >must' be observed when mak- ing a petficoat'? .'-.'- "^ ' 4. Name different way^s that' petticoats may be fin- ished" around the bottonr. Around the top. - 5., \yhat .seams may be used in making petticoats? CHAPTER XII DRAWERS Drawers are divided skirts. The materials used in iiightg-owns, such as muslin, cambric, longcloth, cotton crepe, nainsook, etc., may be used for drawers. Drawers are made in various ways. They may be open or closed, wide or narrow, or may be made in bloomer fashion, but no matter which style is chosen, the fundamental principles of drafting the pattern are always the same. The legs are finished in many different ways. Embroider}^, beading, insertion, and crochet edges are greatly used. Very often drawers are finished with a plain hem only. The top of the drawers is finished with a straight or a fitted belt. Sometimes it is fin- ished with a plain hem. This may be made of an applied facing which may be cut on the straight or on the bias of the material. A rub- ber is often drawn through this hem. Rubber should not be used in white goods as the boiling necessary in laundering will spoil it. 124 DRAWERS 125 Required Measurements 1. The length should be taken from the waist- line to the knee. The same length is obtained by measuring from the center of the back along the extended arm to the wrist. Fio. 44. — Closed Drawers or "Bloomers" A, Extended part of band, turned under to reinforce the end; B, folded placket over back part of drawers; C, rein forcinjg^ seat; D, ruffle extended from length of drawers; E, drawers gather at the knee by means of a linen tape. 2. The hip measure should be taken loosely over the largest part of the hips. The bust measure may be used instead of the hip meas- ure. The width of each leg at the seat line should be nearly equal to the bust measure. 126 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 3. The waist measure should also be taken loosely. 4. The knee measure must be taken if a band is used. Fk;. 45. — Opex Drawers A, Two darts take in the fullness in the front: B, edge of drawers faced with garment bias facing; C, ruffle sewed on with a receiving tuck. Standard Measurements Hip measure 40", waist measure 26'', length 23". Drafting the Pattern 1. Cut a piece of paper 36" wide and 30" long. DRAWERS 127 2. Fold this paper lengthwise through the center and place it lengthwise, with the fold at your left and the cut edge at your right. AB Mark A on the upper left-hand corner and on the folded edge of the paper. Fig. 46. — Closed Drawers A, Flat fell seam ; B, French seam ; C, shaped hem : D, continuous placket Mark B on the lower left-hand corner. The fold AB represents the hip line of the draw- ers on the straight and fold of the material. AC Mark AC on the upper cut edge and BD on the lower cut edge. AE From A on the AB line, measure 4%" and locate E. EF From E, draw a line 14 of the entire hip measure plus 2'', and locate F. 128 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS FG From F, draw a line 17" long and parallel to the CD line, and locate G. This line in- dicates the crotch, or the side line. Fig. 47. — Draft of Draw ERS EH From E on the AB line, draw a line 17" long and locate H. DRAWERS 129 HI From H, draw a line 18'' long and parallel to the AC line, and locate I. This line indicates the seat line and the width of the drawers. EB From E, draw a line 23" long, and locate J. This indicates the hip line and the length of the drawers. JK From J, draw a line 12" or 15" long and parallel to the AC line and locate K. The width of the bottom is optional as it de- pends on the type of drawers. IK Connect I and K by a straight line. Find the middle between I and K, and locate L. LR Connect I and K again, cui^ing this line %" at L. FM From F on the FG line, measure down 1", and locate M. MN From M, measure 1" parallel to the AC line, and locate N. NF Connect N and E by a straight line. Mark this line ' ' front waistline. ' ' FO From F, draw a line upward 4" long and parallel to the CD line, and locate 0. OE Connect and E by a straight line and mark this line *^back waistline.'' 01 Connect and I by a straight line. This line forms the center back seam. IP From I, measure 2%" on the IH line, and locate P. 130 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS PP2 From P measure 21/2" upward parallel to the CD line, and locate P2. IN Connect N and I by a curved line, curving it at the point P.. (See Fig. 47.) To ob- tain this line use the curve of your chart which is marked neck curve. EX From E on the AB line, draw a line 8'' long, and locate X. This line indicates the place for the placket. KR If the drawers are to be finished with a hem then .turn the hem on the JK line on to the pattern and cut the point R to follow the line KLI. (See Figs. 46 c and ,47.') JSS If the drawers are to be open and rounded at the lower hip line measure on each edge from J 21/2" and draw a diagonal of 1'' from the corner J, and locate V. SVS Connect SVS by a curved line. OW From 0, draw a line 2" long and locate W. Connect W and by- a straight line. WI Connect WI by a straight line. This will allow more fullness for open drawers. Cut out the pattern: (See Pig. 47.) 1. Along the back waistline marked EG. 2. Around the back seam ,01. 3. Around the curved leg ILK. 4. Around the bottom KJ. Unfold the paper and then cut: 1. The side seam IN. DRAWERS 131 2. The front waistline NE. Parts of the closed drawers: The drawers consist of two pieces for the legs, one piece of material 19'' by 2" for the front belt, one piece of material 13'' by 2" for the back belt, two pieces of material 17" by 2" for the plackets, four pieces of material for reinforcing the crotch. Each piece forms i/i o^ ^ circle and measures l-i/j" at the two longer edges and 2^2^ through the middle. Placing the pattern on the material and cut- ting out the drawers: (See Fig. 48). The fin- ish for the bottom of the drawers must be de- cided upon before the pattern is placed on the material. Decide if the drawers should be fin- ished with a hem, a ruffle, lace or embroidery. If there is to be a ruffle determine whether it is to be of a different or of the same material. (See Figs. 44, 45.) Be sure of the finished length before the material is cut out and whether you must cut off, or allow on the pat- tern. If the instructions are carefully followed for cutting out, all the pieces that are required for the drawers will be obtained from the amount stated above. Making of the Closed Drawers 1. Join the two front and the two back pieces 132 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS with either a French seam or a flat fell seam. If a flat fell seam is made, care should be taken Fig. 48 DRAWERS 133 that the fell of each back and front seam turns over to the same side. When joined together this seam should look like one continuous seam. 2. The inner leg seam may also be joined with a flat fell or a French seam. Take the back and the front pieces and pin them together carefully at the center seam. From this center, pin each one of the leg seams. This will help to make sure that the center seam matches exactly. The seam, whether French or flat, should first be pressed open as carefully as possible and then made as flat and as narrow as possible. A good width is %'' in fine material and never more than 14" in coarser materials. Plackets Cut a slit 8'' long on each leg on the hip line and on the fold of the material. The placket may be made as a continuous fell and bound placket or as a continuous bound placket. The latter is the easier to make. 1. Cut a piece of material 17'' long and 2'' wide for each placket and place the right side of the placket on the wrong side of the material. 2. Stitch these together with a plain seam. 3. Open this seam well and press it back on the placket. 4. Make Vh" turn and lay the turned edge so as to cover the first stitches. 134 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 5. Stitch close to the edge of the turned hem. The second stitching will be on the right side. 6. Crease the edges of the placket very flat, and at the bottom of the slit fold the placket over on the back part of the drawers. (The placket now will form a facing. See Figs. 44 B, 46 D.) 7. At the bottom of the slit make two rows of stitching. This will hold the placket to the back and will reinforce the placket. 8. Pin the placket along the side back to the top of the drawers. Stitch, by machine, two shirring threads %'' apart on both the front and the back part of the drawers. The Bands For closed draw^ers, the band is made in two parts. The back part is shorter than the front and laps over the front. The buttonholes are cut in the back parts and the buttons are sewed on the front parts. On account of the great strain on the button and the buttonholes, and in order to strengthen the materials, the bands are reinforced by doubling the material at these points. (See Figs. 44, 46.) DRAWERS 135 Finding the Length of the Back and the Front Part of the Band To find out accurately the length of the back and the front part of the band : 1. Cut a piece of paper V wide and 1/2 the length of your waist measure. 2. Write on one end '* center back'' and on the other end ^'center front." 3. Fold this in the middle and make a pen- cil mark at that point. Each part will indicate % of your entire waist measure. 4. From the pencil mark, measure over %" towards the center back and cut the paper. The part marked '^ center back" indicates the size of V2 the back band. The part marked '^ center front" indicates one-half the front band. Cutting Parts of the Band 1. Cut a piece of material 2" wide and twice the length of the back part of the band, plus V\ which will be turned under to reinforce the band. 2. Crease these turn well and put in a con- trasting thread to mark the center of the back. 3. Take the piece marked ^'center front." Cut another piece of material 2'' wide, allow T' on each end for the placket which extends along the front, and allow 1" more for the reinforcing of the band. A total of 4" must then be added 136 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS to the length of the piece of paper marked "cen- ter front. ' ^ 4. At each end of the band turn under the material allowed for strengthening the ends. Crease these turns well and mark with a con- trasting thread the "center front." Sewing the Bmicl to the Drawers 1. Take the back part of the band and place it with the right side to the wrong side of the drawers. 2. Pin the place marked for the center back to the seam of the center back of the drawers. 3. Pin each end of the drawers (the end where the placket faces the drawers) exactly at the end of the band. 4. Draw up the shirr threads in the drawers to the same lengths as the band. 5. Put a pin at each end of the drawers and wind the shirr threads around them. This will hold the thread in place. 6. Adjust the gathers. Put most of the full- ness at the center. There should be but little fullness for IVo'' from each end. 7. Pin or baste the drawers carefully to the band. 8. Stitch the band and the drawers together with a plain seam. DRAWERS 137 9. Open this seam well and press it back on the belt. 10. Turn the edge under on the long cut edge of the band. 11. Place this turned edge so as to cover the raw edges and the first stitching of the band and pin or baste it down. 12. Make sure that the corners are square and even and finish each short end with an overhand stitch. 13. Stitch very close to the turned edge. The last stitching is thus made on the right side. 14. Take the front part of the band and re- peat as you have done for the back with this exception — the shirring should be pushed to- ward the edges and away from the center. Fitted Band Required Measurements The waist measure, the depth of the band. Standard Measurements Waist measure 27", depth of the band 3''. Drafting the Pattern Cut a piece of paper 13" by 13" and mark the corners A, B, C, and D. AB represents the center front. A'E From A' measure one-third of the entire waist measure on the AB line, and locate E. 138 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS A'F From A' measure on a line parallel to the AC line tlie same distance as A'E, -minus %" and locate F. A'G From A' on the AB line measure %", and Fig. 41). — Fitted Baad locate G. Put the point of the compass at G and swing it along the EF line. EI From E on the AB line measure 3", and locate I. DRAWERS 139 IH Place one point of the compass on G and from G as a center describe a curve until it touches the AC line. HK To obtain a little more fullness in the back extend the line from H %", and locate K. FK Connect F and K by a straight line. Cutting Out the Pattern Cut out the pattern on the line EF, FK, and IHK. Mark IE ^^ center front" and FH '' center back." Making of the Fitted Band This band may be closed in the back or in the front. The closing depends on the garment for which it is made. Ordinarily the fitted band is made of double material but single material may also be used. The ^'peplum" of shirt waist and corset cover is cut after this pattern and is made of single material. Bands for under- wear are ordinarily made of double material be- cause they are stronger and are more quickly and easily made. Buttons and Buttonholes A fan and barred buttonhole should be made at each end of the back part of the band. The buttons are sewed to the front part. 140 GARAIENTS FOR GTELS Finishing the Lower Edge of the Drawers The lower edge of the drawers may be fin- ished with a plain hem, lace, embroidery, or ruffle. For fullness of the ruffle, ly^ times the width of the drawers is generally used. (See P'igs. 44, 45, 50.) Sometimes the ruffle is made of the same material and then the full width on Fig. 50 — Euffle Attached with Lace the material on the JK line (see Figs. 44 E, 47) is used. In this case, stitch two gathering threads 14 '' apart, along the K J line. Prepare a double band Vo'- or %" wide and the width of the knee. Pin the middle of the band to the right side of the hip line of the drawers DRAWERS 141 and the seam of the band to the side seam of the drawers. Draw up gathering threads to fit this band. Pin or baste this band evenly and securely to the drawers and stitch each edge down by machine. Sometimes if a rub- ber or a tape is run through, this band is stitched around the full width of the drawers and the rubber or tape will draw up the full- ness and make it fit around the knee. The edge of the ruffle may be finished with a crocheted or embroidered scallop, w^ith a lace edge, or with a plain narrow hem. If a plain hem is used, it should be cut to fit the drawers. (See Fig. 44 D.) TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Draft the pattern. 2. Place the pattern on the material. 3. Cut out the material. 4. Reinforce the front and back part of the draw- ers. 5. Sew the front parts together. 6. Sew the back parts together. 7. Sew up the inner leg seam. 8. Cut and make the placket. 9. Prepare the band for the front and back. 10. Sew the band to the back part of the drawers. 11. Sew the band to the front part of the drawers. 12. Finish the bottom of the drawers. 142 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS QUESTIONS 1. Name different materials suitable for drawers. 2. How may drawers be finished around the bot- tom ? 3. How may drawers be finished around the top ? 4. Should rubber be used in muslin drawers? 5. What trimming may be used for the bottom of the drawers? 6. Name the different types of drawers. 7. In what do they differ? 8. What seams are used in the making of draw- ers? CHAPTER XIII SKIRTS Skirts are made of cotton, linen, woolen, or silk material. These materials vary greatly in weave, finish and width. In selecting the material for any skirt the essential points to be considered are : 1. On what occasion is the garment to be worn. 2. What amount of wear it will stand. 3. What length of time it is intended to be worn. 4. What are the remodeling qualities of the goods. 5. How the goods may be cut to the best ad- vantage. The skirt shown in Fig. 51 is made of cot- ton material 1 yard wide. This width was chosen because the skirt can be cut out with almost no waste. Any cotton, linen, woolen, or mixed material may be used. One must be careful when placing the pattern on the material to observe : 1. Whether the material has a right or a wrong side. 143 144 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 2. Whether the material has an up and down, or whether a nap. 3. Whether there is a distinctive pattern to be matched. Fig. 51. — Back View of Skirt A, Two gatherings at the normal waist line and one at the high waist line will keep the fullness in place; B, C, side seam should follow the plumb line; D, back gores joined with a French side. Figure 52 shows how to place the pattern on the material if it does not have a right or a wrong side or an up and do^vn. SKIRTS 145 Figure 53 shows how to make a skirt with two gores and how to place the pattern on the ma- terial if it has a right and a wrong side and an up and down. Fig. 52. -Pattern Placed on Material which has no Right OR Wrong Side nor an Up and Down Required Measurements The measurements needed for a skirt are : the waist measure, the hip measure, the front length, the side length, the back length. (See Fig. 5.) The waist measure should be taken over the corset cover. It should be the size of the belt. The hip measure is taken by standing behind 146 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS the person to be measured and placing the tape line horizontally around the hips and about 7'' Fig. 53. — Pattern Placed on Material which has a Right AND A Wrong Side and an Up and Down SKIRTS 147 from the waistline. This measure should be taken quite loosely. The length should be measured from the waistline to the floor. One should make sure that the line is horizontal around the waist; otherwise it will be impossible to get an even length. All the lengths (the front, the side, and the back lengths) should be taken from the waist to the floor. Then there should be de- ducted from one length the number of inches that one desires the skirt to be from the floor. For example, if the measurement from the waist to the floor is 42'' and the skirt is to be 10'' from the floor the front length should be 32". The side and back lengths should be measured ac- cordingly. Standard Measurements ' Waist measure 26", hip measure 40", front length 32", side length 33", back length 33". The Drafting of the Pattern (See Fig. 54). Cut a piece of paper 36" wide and about 5" longer than the actual length of the skirt de- sired. The average length at the present time is 35". The paper should, then, be about 40" long and 36" wide. Take this paper and place it with the width, horizontally in front of you, and mark the corners A, B, C, and D. 148 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS AC represents the width of the paper and the woof of the material. AB represents the length of the paper and the straight of the goods. - ZO' B D Fig. 54. — Draft for Skirt AL From A on the AC line measure one-half of the hip measure, and locate L. AM On the AC line from A, measure a Une the length of one-fourth of the entire waist SKIRTS 149 measure and to this add %" and mark that point M For instance, if tlie waist meas- ure is 2&\ then i/4 of it is 6V2" find if you add %/' to this amount you have ly^'. It is the length of the line thus obtained, or 7V4", that you must use in measuring on the AC line to locate M. AE From A on the AB line measure a line 3" long, and locate E. (The distance between A and E is always equal to one-tentli of one- half of the width of the bottom of the skirt.) EF From K draw a line 714" long and parallel to AM, and locate F. jNIF Connect M and F by a straight line. FG From the point F on the ME line, locate a point G which should measure as far from F as the difference between the front length and the side length of the skirt. For ex- ample, suppose the front length is 30", the side length 31''. The ditference will be one inch. EGL Connect E and G by a slightly curved line and then connect G and Ij by a straight line. Mark this line *^ waistline.'^ EB From E on the center front line AB, meas- ure the front length of the skirt, and locate K. From the waistline G measure down the side length. Place the end of the yardstick on the 150 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS waistline. Let the other end come toward the bottom of the skirt. Mark dots with a pencil at the point which represents the length of the skirt. Move the yardstick (keeping it on the waistline) so that a series of dots will mark the bottom of the skirt. Place these dots at inter- vals of 2". To obtain the desired width take a tapeline and pin this around the bottom. This will help you to obtain a good curve. When the 32" point is reached (on the width of one- half of the skirt) place the yardstick again at L and make sure that the last dot is 3.T' (the length of the skirt) from the top. (See Fig. 52.) Always be sure that half of the width of the skirt KJ (28'', 82'', 36", or wider) inter- sects at the back with the length of the skirt LJ. To prevent the skirt from having points or scallops in front and in the back, place the chart, or a right-angled corner, on the front KE and also on the back JL. At the corner K and the corner J, draw a line 3" long. Join the curve that represents the bottom of the skirt to these straight lines. Do not remove the tapeline until you are sure that the length is perfectly even and that you have a good slightly curved line at the bottom. KI Find the center of the bottom (which in this case is 16"), and locate I. SKIRTS 151 10 On the IK line measure li/o'' from I, and locate O. This point is placed a little nearer to the front so that the side seam may hang perfectly straight. The seams in the skirts should always follow the plumb line. OG Connect and G by a straight line. This line indicates the side seam. Mark: 1. The front line EK with the words ''cen- ter front straight of the material." 2. The back line LJ ''center back, straight of the material." 3. On each side of the side seams OJ "bias." 4. Mark connecting points instead of notches, one at the center front, two at the side seams, and three at the back. (See Fig. 52.) 5. Mark full name on each gore. Cutting Out the Paper Pattern 1. Cut out along the waistline EGL. 2. Cut along the center back LJ. 3. Cut the bottom line JIOK. 4. Divide the pattern on the line OG. Required Material Two side lengths plus 7'' for each length of 36'' material are sufficient for this skirt. These additional inches al- low 3" for a hem and 2" for a high waistline. For instance, if the hip 152 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS length measures 32'', there should be added 3" for a hem and 2'' for a high waist, or a total length of 37" or 2 yards and 2" of 36'' material will be needed to make a skirt and a belt as shown in Pig. 52. In addition, % of a yard of belting, 2 white hooks and eyes No. 2, 2 snaps No. 1, 3 yards of white bias binding (if the hem is finished with a binding), 1 spool No. 70 white thread for machine stitch- ing, 1 spool No. 40 white thread for sewing on the hooks and eyes, No. 6 *' between" needles, tapeline. Make a gauge with 3", 2" and 1" plainly marked upon it. (See Fig. 55.) 5Er x^ 3E 3'S' ■^jin ■ Z" K Name Fio. ao. — Making a Gauge Preparing the Material for Putting on the Pat- tern 1. See that the material is perfectly smooth. If necessary, press it with a hot iron so that it lies perfectly flat. SKIRTS 153 2. If there are just two lengths fold them with the right side and the selvages together. 3. Be sure to place the cut edges together at the bottom and make the selvages meet. 4. Pin the selvages together. Put the pins at right angles. Placing the Pattern on the Material No seams are allowed on this pattern. See Fig. 52. 1. Take the front pattern marked ^^ center front, straight of the material" and place it on the material 3" from the cut edge at the bot- tom and 2" from the selvage at the front. Use the gauge where 3'', 2" and 1" are marked upon it. 2. Place the back gore with the words "cen- ter back, straight of the material'^ 4" from the other selvage edge. The widest part of this gore should be 3'', or the width of the hem, from the folded edge of the cloth. Pin this pattern to the cloth securely and evenly. Cutting Out the Shirt 1. Cut straight along the edge of the pattern marked "center back.'' A double strip of 3i^" will be left. Use this for a belt. 2. With the gauge, measure V from each edge of the paper pattern marked "bias. M 154 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Connect these two points by a line drawn with a ruler. 3. Cut out each gore on these lines. Do not remove the pattern from the cloth. Outlining and Pressing the Seams in the Skirts 1. Take the front gore and crease one layer of the goods very carefully over every edge of the pattern around the waist, the front, the bot- tom, and the side seam. 2. After creasing the edges carefully, press them with a hot iron. In this manner every seam and stitching line will be marked. (See Fig. 74 for method of creasing the material over the pattern.) 3. Now turn the pattern to the opposite side and on this side turn over the extending edge so as to meet the other turned edge very ac- curately. Press this firmly with a hot iron. 4. Take the back gore and crease and press the bottom side seam and waist. Crease and press one side and then, turning the gore on the opposite side, crease and press this. Putting the Skirt Together 1. Remove the back pattern and lay one gore fiat on the table with the right side up and un- folded bias seam towards the sewer. 2. Remove the pattern from the front gores. SKIETS 155 Take one front piece with the right side up, lay the pressed side seam directly over the pressed seam of the back gore. 3. Put a pin at the waistline. Be sure that the waistline is even. Then put a pin at the crease marked for the hem at the bottom. Also be sure that the connecting points meet on a straight line. Next put several pins carefully along the side seam. Make sure that the lines and connecting points meet accurately. 4. Take the gores from the left side and re- peat the process. Stitching the Skirt I. Side Seams 1. When the two sides are pinned together, carefully stitch the side seam on the right side. Use the presser foot as a guide and stitch very close to the edge. 2. Join the two back gores either with a French seam or a French fell. II. Fr^nt 1. On the right side front gore, from the crease which has been pressed to allow for 2'' and which indicates the center front, turn over r' all along the selvage on the wrong side, and press this well. This turn will form the front pleat. (See Fig. 56 C.) 2. Now take the two front gores and lay 156 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS the right side over the left side so that the two creases which indicate the "center front" are directly opposite each other. Fig. 5G. — Detail of Front Closing of Skirt A, Skirt turned over tlie helt; B, skirt finished with l)ias binding; C, front ])k'at stitehed hack 1": D. phicket facing made by folding over the extended piece; E, metliod of sewing on fastenings. 3. Pin the two together. Begin near the bottom at the pressed seam line. SKIRTS 157 4. Pin these seams together. Leave about 12'' from the front for the front opening. (See Fig. 56 C, D.) 5. Be sure that the selvage edge of the ex- tended front pleat comes a little under the line so that the stitching will catch the turned edge. 6. Stitch the two fronts together on the marked center front line near the 12'' allowed for the opening, break the thread in the bobbin or shuttle, slip the one side away from the presser foot, and continue to stitch the re- mainder of the front. (This avoids the break- ing of the upper thread.) 7. Shirr by machine 2 gathering threads around the marked waistline. To do this : (a) Adjust to the longest stitch the machine will allow. (b) Use a coarse cotton on the machine as a fine thread will break too easily in drawing it up. (c) Loosen either the upper or the lower ten- sion. III. Hem Pin up the hem all around the pressed line. Put pins about 2" from the edge and about 5" or 6" apart. Preparing the Belt 1. Cut off a belt about 4" to 6" longer than the actual waist measure. 158 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 2. Fold it into two parts. Mark the middle with a pencil or a contrasting thread. This will indicate the center back. 3. On each side from this center back mark % of the waist measure. Mark these also with a pencil line or with a contrasting thread. 4. Find the point where the side seam should come. To determine this point, measure 1/4 of the waist measure minus %", starting at the center back. The point thus obtained is called the '* balance point," because at this point the side seam of the skirt meets the. underarm seam of the waist and later on, in dressmaking, it is the starting point from which many measures are tested. Putting the Skirt on the Belt 1. If the belt is wide, mark a line through the middle with a pencil or a. contrasting thread. 2. Pin the gatherings of the skirt at the seam in the center back, directly on the traced line and at the center back of the belt. 3. Pin the gathering of each side seam on the drawn line of the belt and on the *' balance point.'' 4. Pin the waistline and the marked center front line of the skirt on the center front line of the belt. SKIRTS 159 5. The two side fronts should fit the belt. 6. Draw the two gathering threads up in the back to fit the belt. 7. Adjust the gathers evenly. Leave 1%" from the side seam with very little or no full- ness and pull the gathers well toward the mid- dle of the back. 8. Adjust the gathers so that they will ra- diate. 9. Pin the skirt carefully to the belt. Put the pins at right angles and close together. Fitting the Skirt 1. See that the belt is placed horizontally around the waistline. 2. See that the side seams hang straight from the hips down. 3. See that the back and the front seams are perfectly straight. 4. Lap the right side of the belt on to the left side, and to the line which indicates the cen- ter front of the belt. 5. See that both edges are even at the top. 6. If the measurements have been taken cor- rectly, the skirt will fit perfectly and will not need any alteration. 7. However, to test the length, place a yard- stick perpendicular to the floor with the be- ginning end on the floor. This will show very 160 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS quickly and accurately whether the skirt is the same distance from the floor all around. Basting the Shirt Over the Belt 1. Put another shirrinti: thread at the top of the skirt. This will help to regulate the full- ness. 2. With shallow overhand stitches baste the skirt over the belt. 3. At the left side front, turn the selvage over V towards the left side. This will form the facing for the placket. 4. On this side let the belting extend as far as the turned edge of the placket; then turn a I/2" hem. Baste the skirt to the belt as far as this point. StitcJi'oif/ the Skirt to the Belt 1. Take a piece of bias binding Vy wide and lay this on the inside i/4" from the edge of the belt. 2. Pin this binding all along the inside of the belt. 3. Extend the binding 2" beyond the end of the belt to make sure that there is enough left .for a good finish. 4. Stitch very close to the upper bias edge of the belt. 5. Lift up the loose side of the bias edge and SKIRTS 161 cut the extending seam of the skirt till this is even with the cut edge of the bias bindhig. Fig. 57. — Detail of Front of Skirt Closed with A Slot Seam A, Slot seam formed by folding over both edges and stitch ing tliem to a straight piece; B, wrong side of slot seam; C, inside of seam finished by turning the cut i'(\g;e once and stitcliing close to the edge; D, stitching the skirt on the belt without bias binding. The belt 'covers the edge of the skirt. 162 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 6. Stitch the other edge of the binding to the belt. 7. Finish the ends of the binding by turning them under. 8. Sew on the hooks and eyes. 9. Sew snaps on the placket. For another method of finishing the front of a skirt and sewing the skirt to the belt, see Fig. 57. Putting in the Hem 1. If you are sure that the skirt is an even length all around, then press the edge of the skirt on the inside with a hot iron. 2. There are different ways of finishing the hem of the skirt and these different ways vary according to the material used in the skirt. But no matter what hem is chosen, a gauge must be used, and the hem marked. This gauge, measuring from the bottom up, must mark an even width all around. 3. These marks may, according to the ma- terial, be made, with either a hard pencil, tail- or's chalk, or the tracing wheel. I. First Method 1. After the width of the hem is marked, turn an even i/4" turn and press this turn with a hot iron. This turn must be even, as an un- SKIRTS 163 even turn will show in transparent and in semi- transparent materials. 2. Pin the hem down. It will be found that there is more fullness in the hem than in the skirt. The wider the skirt is and the deeper the hem, the more fullness there will be found. Fig. 58. — Details for Hemming a Skirt ry Pleating the Fullness at the Top by Means of a Bias Binding A, Horn pinned and bottom edtrc pressed; B, fullness ])leated and pinned; C, width of hem marked; D, gauge marking the line for the binding; E, binding pinned to hem with card- board between hem and skirt; F, binding stitched to the hem; G, binding stitched to the skirt. 3. Make small, even pleats in the hem where the fullness is. If only a few deep pleats are made points will appear at the lower edge of the hem. (Sec Fig. 58 A.) 4. Be sure, when you make these pleats, that 164 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS they do not form scallops near the stitching line. Be very careful to keep an even stitching line around the hem. 5. Hold the hem up to the light. Any ir- re«:ularitv will show. Fig. 59. — Details for Hemming a Skirt by Shirring the Fullness at the Top t.y Means of a Bias Binding A, Gauge marking the width of the hem; B, sliirr tliread made bv macliine to hold the fuUneas; C, cardhoard slii)i)ed between hem and skirt; D, bias binding pinned over tlie shirr thread; E, first stitehing of bias binding; F, eutting away surplus material ; G, stitching binding to skirt. 6. Press the pleats and the upper edge in the hem. 7. Stitch very close to the edge. II. Second Method This method is adapted especially to the needs of immature students. It is also found SKIRTS 165 satisfactory for skirts made of heavy material. When an even width is marked all around the hem: 1. Put in a shirring thread by machine. To do this, adjust the longest stitch the machine will take. Loosen either the top or the bottom tension. Then stitch on the marked line of the cut edge of the hem. 2. Pull up the shirring thread so that the edge of the hem will fit the skirt. The shirring thread will hold in a great deal of the fullness, which otherwise would have to be put into pleats. 3. Take a i/4'' bias tape. Lay the lower edge of the binding directly over the stitching and pin to the hem only. Slip a cardboard be- tween the skirt and the hem. This will pre- vent pinning the hem and the skirt together. 4. When the binding is pinned all around, then stitch it, close to the edge, on to the hem. 5. Press the hem and the binding. Any full- ness that may still be found press in small pleats. 6. Stitch the upper edge of the binding to the skirt. (See Fig. 59.) TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Draft the pattern. 2. Fold the material. 166 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 3. Place the pattern on the material. 4. Pin the pattern on the material. 5. Cut out the front gore. 6. Cut out the back gore. 7. Press the seams over the paper pattern. 8. Pin the side front seams over the side back seams. 9. Stitch the side seams. 10. Sew up the center back seam. 11. Press the pleat for the center front. 12. Run two shirring threads around the waist- line by machine. 13. Pin up the hem around the bottom. 14. Prepare the belt. 15. Pin the skirt on the belt. 16. Draw up the gathering thread to fit the belt. 17. Fit the skirt. 18. Make alterations, if necessary. 19. Baste the belt to the skirt. 20. Finish the skirt around the waistline. 21. Stitch the hem around the bottom. 22. Sew on the fastenings. 23. Press the skirt. 24. Figure out the cost. 25. Figure out the time. CHAPTER XIV MIDDY BLOUSE It is desirable that each student have her own pattern fitted to her so that she may be certain that the neck, the shoulder seams, and the arm curve do not need any alteration after the blouse is cut. (Fig. 60.) With the help of a perfect fitting shirt waist pattern, a great deal of time and material are saved. The pleasure of making garments, when quick and satisfactory results are obtained, is greatly enhanced and thrift is fostered. The human body is built very symmetrically, and to draft a perfect-fitting pattern for a middy blouse or a shirt waist for a normal figure only two measurements, the length of the back and the bust measure, are necessary. A figure is normal when the length of the front is %'' more than the length of the back. The relation of all the other measurements needed will be found in the following fundamental measurements. Standard Measurements Length of back 15", bust 39". If the length 167 168 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS of the back is 15", then the length of the front is 1/2" more, or 15%". If the bust measure is 39", the width of the shoulders across the back Fig. 60. — Middy Blouse and Pktticoat with Pleated Ruffle is one-third of the bust measure or 13". To this is added 1" so that the waist may be loose. The total width across the back between the shoulders is then 14", which is the measure- MIDDY BLOUSE 169 ment across the back 4" below the neck. The chest measure 4'' below the neck is V more than the width across the back, or 15". The underarm measure is one-half the length of the back. The neck measure is the same as the back, or 13''. The waist measure is two- thirds of the bust, or 25 1/3". The sleeve meas- ure is 1V1> times the length of the back. The hip measure, for girls up to 18 years, is the same as the bust measure. For adults, 1/10 of the bust measure is added. The hip meas- urement in the latter case is about 42". A loose measurement for both bust and hips is advisable. With the help of one well-fitted v/aist pattern, all the other garments such as the corset cover, shirt waist, nightgown v/ith sleeves, one-piece dress, envelope chemise, middy blouse, top coat, and later on, all the tight-fitting garments may be made. The middy blouse is a garment which is worn a great deal for gymnasium work, and hence must be very loose and ample. For this rea- son the shirt-waist measurements are enlarged as follows: %" is added to one-half the width of the back and to the front, 1/4" to one-half the width of the back and the front neck, and 2" to half the bust measurement. 170 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Y'v^rwwww^rSi'^T'^w'^iifn Fig. 61. — Chart to Facilitate Drafting of Patterns MIDDY BLOUSE Required Material 1% or 1% yards of 44" material is re- quired for a middy, or 2 yards of 36" material. This is sufficient for a dou- ble 12" collar, long sleeves, and cuffs. A -^ ^ ^ 171 Fig. 62. — Draft for Middy Blouse One-third of the KO line is equal to the width of the back neck measure EN, to the slope of the shoulder NQ and added to the width of the back indicates the under arm seam R. For square to facilitate the drafting of pat- terns, see Fig. 61. 172 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Drafting the Middy Pattern. (See Fig. 62.) Cut a paper 22" by 26''. Mark the corners A, B, C, D. The line AB indicates the length of the middy and the center back. The line AC indicates one-half of the width of the back and of the front. AE From A draw a line V long on the AB line, and locate E. EF From E draw a line the full width of the paper, parallel to the AC line, and locate F under C. Mark this line "neck line." EK From E draw a line 3%" long on the AB line, and locate K. KL From K draw a line the full width of the paper and parallel to the AC line, and lo- cate L on the CD line. Mark this line "chest line." EI From E measure 71/2" on the AB line, and locate I. IJ Draw this line along the full width of the paper and parallel to the AC line, and lo- cate J on the CD line. Mark this line "bust line." EG From E on the AB line draw a line 15'' long, and locate G. GH Draw this line again the full width of the paper and parallel to the AC line, and lo- cate H. Mark this line "waistline." The principal guide and construction lines MIDDY BLOUSE 173 are now located on the paper. The outline of the pattern may now be drawn. Back EM From E on the EF line draw a line 21/2" long, and locate M. This line is equal to one-third of the width of half the back. MN From M draw a line I/2" long parallel to the AE line, and locate N. This raised line indicates the curve for the neck. EN Connect E and N by a slightly curved line. This line indicates the back part of the neck of the middy. KO From K draw a line 71/2" long on the KL line, and locate 0. OP From measure upward a line 2Y/' long and parallel to the KA line, and locate P. This line is also equal to one-third of one- half the width of the back and is the same as the width of the neck EM. PQ From P draw a line Vii" long and parallel to the AC line, and locate Q. This extended line indicates the curve for the armseye. NQ Connect NQ by a straight line. This line is 5%" long and indicates the back shoulder seam. QO Connect Q and by a slightly curved line. IR From I on the IJ line draw a line 91^'' long, and locate R. 174 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS RO Connect R and by a deep curved line. This line indicates the armseye of the middy. Use the curve of the chart marked ^'arm curve.'' BS From B on the BD line draw a line 10" long, and locate S. RS Connect R and S by a straight line. This indicates the underarm seam. Front FT From F on the CD line draw a line 2%'' long, and locate T. FIT From F on the FE line draw a line 2%" long, and locate U. UV From U draw a line y^'' upward and parallel to the CF line, and locate V. VT Place the point of the chart marked neck curve and connect V and T by curved line. This line indicates the front neck line. XU From V below IJ draw a line 8" long and parallel to the AC line, and locate X. VW Place the point of the ruler or chart on V and draw a line 5i/." long, meeting the XX line at this point. This line indicates the front shoulder seam. LY From L on the LK line draw a line 8" long, and locate Y. This line indicates the chest measure. WYR Connect WY by a slightly curved line, MIDDY BLOUSE 175 and then place the chart with the arm curve on Y and the other end on LJ towards R. This line indicates the front armseye. Fig. (53. — Draft for Sleeve 176 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Cutting Out the Pattern Cut out around the neck EN and the shoulder seam NQ, then all around the armseye, QORYW, the front shoulder seam WV, and the front neck VT. Then separate the pattern at RS. Draftinrj the Sleeve Cut a piece of paper 23'' long and 16'' wide, fold this through the center lengthwise, and mark the corners A, B, C, D. AB, the folded edge, represents the length of the sleeve and the fold of the material. AC represents % the width of the sleeve. CE From C measure down 4", or ^4 of the width of the sleeve, on the CD line, and locate E. AE Connect AE by a straight line. AI From A on the AC line, measure 4", or one-half of AC, and locate I. IJ From I draw a line I'^y^" long and parallel to the AB line, and locate J. This line in- dicates the highest point on the shoulder and the straight of the material. IK From I draw a line down i/o" on the IJ line, and locate K. FG From E on the EA line measure 2", and locate G. - MIDDY BLOUSE 177 GH From G measure upward %" towards C, and locate H. AKHE Connect A and K, and H and E by a curved line. This forms the top or upper part of the sleeve. AF Measure down on the AB line 13Vi>"j ^ii^l locate F. This point indicates the elbow of the sleeve. FO From F draw a line parall(4 to the AC line, and locate 0. CL From C on the CD line measure down liy^^ or one-half of CD, and locate L. LD From L measure over 1", and locate 1). DFO Connect Ti with F by strai£>ht lines. DFO represents the pleat at the elbow of the sleeve. DE From 1) on the DB line draw a line V/^', and locate R. EDO Connect EDO by a curved line. Use the curve marked *' sleeve curve" of the chart. Then draw a straight line connecting and K. RS Measure upward from R %/', and locate S. This will shorten the inside seam of the sleeve. The dotted lines near N indicate the pleats to fit the sleeve to the cuff. ( See Fig. 63.) SB Connect S and B by a curved line. If a cuff is desired, deduct the width of the cuff 178 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS from the sleeve (for example, 3'' long on the BA line), and locate N. SM From S draw a line W long on the SOE line, and locate M. This will form the cuff and will be deducted from the sleeve. Cutting the Pattern 1. Cut along the AKHE line. 2. Cut the inside seam, EDOS. 3. Cut along the RB line, and if a cuff is de- sired, cut along the NM line. Draftivg the Collar 1. Paste the shoulder seam NQ of the back of the pattern on the shoulder seam WV of the front. (See Fig. 64.) 2. Take a piece of paper 22'' long and 12" wide, fold it through the center lengthwise, and mark the corners A, B, C, D. 3. Place the paper with the folded edge to- ward the left hand. 4. Take the pattern where the back and the front are pasted together and place it with the center back over the folded edge of the collar pattern. Place the line marked ^'bust line" on the lower cut edge of the folded paper. Pin the paper and the middy pattern together securely. IX From I measure 6" on the bust line, and locate X. MIDDY BLOUSE 179 0^ Shouldet- seam pasted toqefhet Bust Line II o: i Fig. 64. — Draft of Collar for Middy Blouse 180 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Raise the neck line, E, %", and locate 0. OU Connect and U by a curved line. K Measure 8" from the front neck on the TH line, and locate K. This indicates the open- at the front. KTU Turn the point KTU over on to the pattern and crease this turn well. The crease UK indicates the opening in the front, and the point T turned over will form the revere for the under part of the collar. AZ From A on the AC line, measure 2i^", and locate Z. ZU Connect Z and IT by a straight line. This line indicates the inner edge of the collar. Take a tracing wlieel and trace along the OIIZ line and tlien along the curved UT2 line. This curved line indicates the seam for the under part of the coHar. Cutting Out the Collar Pattern (See Fig. 65). 1. Take off the middy pattern. 2. Cut out the neck line by following the tracing OU and continue the straight line from U to L. 3. Unfold the pattern at the center, and cut througli the middk' from B to 0. 4. On one piece, cut through the traced line OUT2. This will give one-half of the pattern MIDDY BLOUSE 181 for the lower part of the collar. Mark BO ** center fold.'' u/^ "^ •'5 1 ' ■ 6- Fig. 65. — Cutting of Upper and Lower Farts of the Collar 182 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 5. Cut the remaining long piece along the line OUL. This is the upper part of the collar. Mark OB on this piece *' center fold.'^ Fig. 66. — Pattern of Middy Placed on Material 44" Wide Fig. 66B. — Pattern of Middy Placed on Material 36" Wide A full uarment can be made from 2 yds. of material 184 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Folding the Material for Cutting (See Figs. 6()A, 66B). 1. Take Indian liead (44" wide) and cut off one length of 25'' or 26''. Fio. 07. — Middy Blouse Partly Fi.nlsued A, Lower part of collar stitolied to middy; B, top part of collar stitched to lower collar: C, stitching Vs" from the edjae near the slit; D, the edges which extend from the upper part of the collar are joined in a plain seam; E, the edge is turned and the sides and bottom of the collar are stitched; F, pleat pinned near wrist ; G, cuff partly stitched to sleeve. 2. On the selvage edge turn back 10". Crease it carefully. MIDDY BLOUSE 185 3. Place the center back of the paper pattern on the fold of the material. At the neck, let Y2' of the material extend beyond the pattern. 4. Take the other selvage and fold it to meet the first selvage. This will give a fold 12" wide. 5. Take the pattern marked '* center front" and place it on the new fold. Let Y^' of the material extend beyond the pattern for the seam at the neck. 6. Pin the parts of the pattern to the ma- terial carefully. Tracing J Cutting^ and Pressing the Seams 1. Allow for a %'' seam all around the neck, shoulder, and armseye. 2. Cut out the goods. 3. Separate the front from the back by cut- ting along the selvage. 4. Do not unpin the pattern. Creasing and Pressing the Seams (See Fig. 74.) Do not remove the pattern from the material until all the seams are carefully turned back over the pattern and pressed back. To do this : 1. See that the pattern is pinned very se- curely to the material. 2. Turn over, all around the paper pattern, one layer only, of the material. Turn this 186 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS around the neck, shoulder seam, armseye and the waistline. 3. Crease the turn well exactly over the edge. Crease it first by hand and then press it with a hot iron. 4. Now turn the middy wrong side out and crease the extending seam over so that it is exactly even with the first turned edge. Making 1. Take the front piece of the blouse and lay it flat on the table with the right side up and shoulder seams extending. 2. Take the back, lay the pressed shoulder seam so as to cover the pressed line of the front shoulder seam. 3. Be sure that the points NV at the neck and the points QW near the armseye meet ex- actly. 4. Put pins at right angles to the seam, one near the shoulder seam, one near the neck, one in the middle. Pin each shoulder seam and then, without basting, stitch very close to the turned edge. 5. Turn the waist inside out and make a i/4" flat fell seam. MIDDY BLOUSE 187 Cutting Out the Top Part of the Collar and the Sleeves 1. Cut ofe one 22" length of the 44'' Indian head. 2. Measure along the width 12" and pull a thread. Cut this piece off. This will give the piece for the upper part of the collar. 3. Cut two paper sleeve patterns and place these so that they dove-tail each other. (See Fig. Q>Q B.) If this precaution is taken two sleeves may be cut without piecing. 4. Cut out the sleeves. 5. Around the upper part of each sleeve crease a %'' turn and press this well. 6. Mark the center of each sleeve at the top and the bottom with ^a contrasting thread or a pin. Putting in the Sleeve The waist is stitched to the sleeve with a flat fell seam of the same width as the shoulder seam. 1. Fold the middy with the edges of the underarm seam together and put a pin at the upper part of the shoulder. This point comes, ordinarily, %'' from the shoulder seam towards the front. 188 GARMENTS FOR GTRLS 2. Lay the sleeve flat on the table with the marked upper edge towards you. 'A. Be sure that the arinseye is well pressed and lay the right side of tlie middy with the pin at the center shoukler to tlie pin at the center of the sleeve. 4. At this point, ])in the middy and the sleeves together. 5. Take the armseye of the middy in your hand. Start from the pin at the center and pin from the right to the left. Lay the middy over the sleeve so that the seam of the middy covers the crease pressed in the sleeve. 6. As you follow the line of the sleeve stretch the middy a little. Put pins about 2" apart at right angles with the seam. 7. When one side is pinned start again from the center point and repeat the process. 8. Pin the two sleeves ; then, without basting, stitch very close to the edge for the shoulder seam. 9. Turn the middy inside out and make a 14'' flat fell seam. 10. On account of the great curve of this seam, it is advisable to baste it. 11. Make a second stitching on this seam. Inexperienced stitcliers will And it easier to get an even seam if they put the second stitching on the right side. MIDDY BLOUSE 189 Adjusting the Sleeve to the Cuff The fullness of the sleeve at the wrist may be shirred in or pleated to fit the cuff. For be- ginners it is easier to shirr the fullness at the wrist. To do this: Fig. 68. — Fitting Under Arm and Side Seam of Middy A, Sleeve, under arm, and side seam pinned for fitting; B, collar ready for outside stiteliing 1. Put a coarser thread than previously used -a No. 50 — on the machine. 2. Make the stitch as long as possible. 3. Make a loose lower or upper tension. 190 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 4. Make two rows of stitching close to the end of the sleeve. 5. Find the middle of the sleeve and put a pin at that point. 6. Draw up the loose threads in each row of stitching to the size of the cuff which will be 9'' or 10''. 7. For the method of pleating the fullness of the sleeve, see Fig. 63 MN. Cuff The cuff on this middy will be closed and, therefore, must be large enough to slijj over the hand. (See Figs. 67 F, 67 (5.) Cut the cuff 10" by 6" and pin it to the sleeve. Do not stitch it until the waist has been fitted and the length of the sleeve and the size of the cuff is decided. Fitting It is advisable to fit the middy after the shoul- der seams are finished and the sleeves are stitched to the blouse. This is done in order to decide on the depth of the seam that can be taken in from the sleeves and the underarm seam. (See Fig. 68 A.) ]. Pin the sleeve seams together. Begin from the seam at the sleeve and pin towards the wrist. MIDDY BLOUSE 191 2. Pin the underarm seam together. 3. Start again from the underarm seam and pin towards the hem. When both sides are pinned then try the middy on, adjust it well around the neck and shoulders and decide on the width of the cuff and the size of the hem at the bottom. Cutting Out the Lower Collar and the Cuff 1. Cut off one length of 12'' of the 44'' In- dian head. 2. Cut off one width of 12" and pull a thread. This will give the piece for the lower part of the collar. 3. Cut off two pieces 6" by 10". This will give the pieces for the two cuffs. A piece 18" by 12" will be left. Cutfivf/ Out the Liniurj for tJie Collar 1. Take the piece of material 12" by 12" cut out for the lower collar, and fold it lengthwise through the center. 2. Place the pattern with the words "center front'' on the folded edge of the material and trace all along the neck line with a tracing wheel. Trace firmly so that the seam is very distinct on both sides. 3. Cut out the neck. Leave only %" seam around the traced neck line. 192 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 4. Mark the center fold with a contrasting thread. Cutting Out the Upper Part of the Collar 1. Take the piece of material 22'' long and 12" wide which was cut off the piece from the sleeve. 2. Fold this through the center lengthwise and crease this fold well. 3. Place the upper collar pattern marked *' center fold" on the fold and on the lower edge of the material. 4. Pin the pattern securely to the material and trace firmly along the neck and the front line. 5. Cut out the collar. Leave only a 14''' seam along the traced line. Sewing the Lining of the Collar to the Middy 1. See that the edges of the collar are per- fectly straight. 2. See that the neck line of the collar is well and evenly traced. Mark the center back with a contrasting thread. 3. Leave only y^" seam around the neck of the middy and around the collar. 4. Pin the center back and the right side of the blouse to the center back and the right side of the collar. MIDDY BLOUSE 193 5. Starting from the center back toward the left side pin the collar to the middy, (a) See that the tracing line of collar and the middy meet exactly, (b) Be sure that the front edges of the collar and middy are perfectly even. 6. When the left side is pinned, start from the center toward the right side and pin the collar and the middy together in as on the left side. 7. Stitch the collar to the middy with a plain seam. 8. Press the seam open with the thmiib and forefinger. 9. On each side of the seam stitch the raw edges down very close to the stitching line. 10. Trim off the raw edges close to the stitch- ing line. (See Fig. 67 A.) Sewing on the Top Part of the Collar (See Fig. 67). 1. See that the edges are very even. Tt is advisable to pull a thread on each edge to be sure that the lines are perfectly straight. 2. Put the center of the right side of the upper part of the collar on the center of the right side of the lining of the collar. See that the tracing around the neck of the top and the lining of the collar meet. 3. Pin the lining to the upper part of the 194 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS collar. Put pins along the center of the top part of the collar from the neck to the outer edge. 4. Next pin the lower edges together. Start from the center and pin each side together. 5. Pin one side of the lining to the upper part of the collar. Start at the corner of the collar and pin the collar to the middy. Put pins at right angles to the edge until the end of the slit is reached. 6. Do the same thing at the other side of the collar. 7. See that the warp and woof of the collar run in the same direction and that the upper as well as the lower side is perfectly smooth. 8. Start at the end of the slit and stitch %'' from the slit and then ^/4'' from the edge all around the collar until opposite the starting point. Leave as small a seam as possible near the slit, just enough so that the material will not fray. A deep seam will make the middy pucker. 9. Stitch the ends which extend from the side of the collar with a plain seam. Crease the seam well. Press very flat between the thumb and forefinger. 10. Open the seam all around the collar and crease it well. MIDDY BLOUSE 195 11. Turn the collar inside out. Crease the seam around the collar again as flat as possible and make square corners. If possible, press the collar with a hot iron. 12. Next stitch the collar all around on the right side. Begin from the end of the slit and stitch all around to the opposite starting point. Stitch very close to the edge. Finishing the Collar on the Inside 1. Turn the middy inside out. 2. Pin the curve of the lining of the collar and the curve of the upper part of the collar together. 3. Turn the raw edges under and stitch the collar to the middy, from shoulder seam to shoulder seam only. 4. All around the side edges and the bottom of the collar turn the raw edges under and stitch close to the turned edge. Stitch the collar only. Do not stitch it to the middy. Putting on the Cuff 1. The width of the cuff depends on the length of the sleeve. Ordinarily the width varies from 2'' to 3" when finished. 2. For a closed cuff the size of the cuff de- pends upon the size of the hand. The cuff should slip over the hand easily when the seams 196 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS are made. An average measure for a finished cuff is 2yy' by 9". 3. Draw up the shirring thread of the sleeve to fit the cuff and sew the cuff by following the instructions given for putting on the band on the sewing apron. Stitching the Sleeve Seam and the Underarm Seam 1. See that the edges of the seams of the armseye meet. 2. See that the cuff is even in length and that the top edges meet. 3. Stitch the sleeve and underarm seam. Make a %'' seam. 4. Open the seam and crease it well. Cut off the raw edges and fell the back part of the middy over the front part. The width of the seam should match the armseye seam and the shoulder seam. Putting on the Pocket 1. Prepare a pocket 3'' by 4'' and cut it to a point at the bottom. 2. Measure approximately 3'' from the arms- eye and 6'' from the shoulder seam and stitch the pocket to the middy according to the di- rections given for stitching the pockets to the apron. MIDDY BLOUSE 197 3. For method of making a set-in pocket, see Fig. 69. YiG. G9. — Pocket Opening Bound with Bias Strips A, Bias pieces basted and stitched; B, bias piece pulled tluougli slit; C, bias piece finished with arrow head 198 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS Eyelet 1. Measure up from the end of the slit 1/2"- Measure over %'' and make a dot. This indi- cates the place for the first eyelet. 2. Measure up 11/2''. This indicates the place for the second eyelet. 3. Mark the third and last eyelet 1%'' from the second one. Fig. 70. — Eyelets A, Eyelet made with the overhand stitch ; B, eyelet made with the blanket stitch 4. Mark the eyelets on the opposite side in the same way. For making the eyelets, see Fig. 70. TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Draft the pattern. 2. Place the pattern on the material. 3. Cut out the middy. 4. Stitch the two shoulder seams. 5. Stitch the middy to the sleeves. MIDDY BLOUSE 199 6. Sew on the lower part of the collar. 7. Sew on the upper part of the collar. 8. Pin the underarm seams of middy and sleeve together. 9. Prepare the cuff. 10. Gather the sleeve. 11. Pin the cuff to the sleeve. 12. Try on the middy and adjust the width around the bust and the hips, adjust the length of the sleeves, and decide on the width of the hem. 13. Stitch the cuff to the sleeve. 14. Make underarm and side seam. 15. Hem the bottom. 16. Prepare and pin on the pocket. 17. Make the eyelets. 18. Press the garment. 19. Compute the cost and compare the middy with a ready-made one. 20. Figure out the time. QUESTIONS 1. What are the required measurements for a middy ? 2. How are these obtained? 3. How was the pattern drafted? 4. Name suitable materials that may be used for a middy. 5. How is the pattern placed on the material? 6. Name the short cuts that may be used in the making of the middy. 7. What is characteristic of a well-fitting middy? CHAPTER XV SHIKT WAIST Shirt waists are made of a great many differ- ent materials. They may be made ot* silk, wool, cotton or linen. The material should be chosen with regard to its nse and suitability. The main factors to be considered in buying shirt waist material for everyday wear are ease in laundering and durability. Beqmred Material One and one-half yards of material 32" or 36'' wide will make a shirt waist for the average girl. (See Fig. 73 for placing the pattern on the material.) Standard Measuremeyits Length of back 15'', bust 38". From these measurements, according to in- structions given in Chapter XIV, the following measurements are obtained: Length of back 15", width of back 13"+ 1" = 14", underarm seam 1^2% length of front 1514", width across the chest 15", bust 38", neck 13", waist 26", length of the sleeve — elbow 200 SHIRT WAIST 201 length 13''— total length 22I/2". For the taking of measurements see Fig. 5. Fig. 71. — Shirt Waist Made out of One and One-Half Yards of Material The skirt is described on page 144, Fig. 51 Drafting the Pattern Cut a piece of paper 22" long and 20'' wide. Mark the corners A, B, C, D. AB represents the length of the waist and the center back. AC represents one-half of the front and back widths of the waist. 202 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS CD represents the center front. AE From A measure V on the AB line, and locate E. EF From E draw a line parallel to the AC A \ c Fig. 72. — Draft for Shirt Waist line, and locate F on the CD line. Mark this line * ^ neck line. ' ' EG From E measure 15" down on the AB line and locate G. SHIRT WAIST 203 GH From G draw a line parallel to the AC line, and locate H on the CD line. Mark this line "back waistline." EI From E measure 71/2" on the AB line, and locate I. IJ From I draw a line parallel to the AC line, and locate J on the CD line. Mark this line "bust line." EK From p] measure 3%/' on the AB line, and locate K. KL Draw a line from K parallel to the AC line, and locate L on the CD line. Mark this line "chest line." Drafting the Back EM From E measure 2y^'' on the EF line, and locate M. MN From M draw a line %" ^ong and parallel to EA, and locate N. EN Connect E and N by a curved line. This will form the back neck line. KO From K draw a line 7'' long on the chest line, and locate 0. OP From draw a line 2%/' long and parallel to the KE line, and locate P. PQ From P draw a line 1/2" long and parallel to the EF line, and locate Q. This will form the curve of the armseye near the shoulder seam. 204 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS QN Connect Q and N with a straight line. This will form the shoulder seam. QO Connect Q and with a slightly curved line. This will form part of the armseye. IR From I on the bust line measure 9", or one-fourth of the bust measure, and locate R. RO Connect R and by a curved line. Use the curve marked ' ' arm curve ' ' in the chart in order to have a perfect curve. GS From G measure 8'' on the waistline, and locate S. SR Connect R and S with a straight line. This line indicates the underarm seam. Drafting the Front FT From F measure 21/2" on the CD line, and locate T. FU From F measure 21/2" on the neck line, and locate U. UV From U draw a line y-/' long upward and parallel to the FC line, and locate V. VUT Connect VUT with a curved line. Use the curve of the chart marked ''neck curve." This line indicates the front of the neck. Measure down 1" from U on the CD line, and locate X. Starting from be- low U draw a line about 6" long, parallel to the AC line, and locate 2X. SHIRT WAIST 205 VW Place the point of the chart beginning with V on V and draw a line the length of the back shoulder seam or 5^4". Let the 51/4'' meet the horizontal line X, and locate W. LY From L draw a line 71/2" long on the chest line, and locate Y. WY Connect W and Y with a slightly curved line. YE. Place the chart with the ''arm curve ^' on Y and let the point rest on the bust line. Draw the arm curve. TZ From T measure 151/2" on the CD line, or the length of the front, and locate Z. Z^ Measure 6" and locate Z^. SZ^ Place the sleeve curve of the chart on S and connect S and Z^ with a curved line. For a close fitting shoulder seam make the front shoulder seam 14'' shorter than the back and stretch it on the back seam. Be sure that V and N and Q and W meet. Curve the shoul- der seams at the middle. A, 14''. Cutting Out the Pattern Cut the pattern out along the back neck line EN, the shoulder seam NQ, around the armseye QRYW, the front shoulder seam WV, and the front neck VUT. Cut around the waistline GSZ^ and Z. Separate the pattern at RS. 206 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 7LLAff SlPCVE COLLAI^ Fig. 73, — Pattern of Shirt Waist Placed on Material 36" Wide SHIRT WAIST 207 Parts of the Shirt Waist 1 back, 2 fronts, 2 sleeves, 2 cuffs, 1 collar. Placing the Pattern on the Material (See Fig. 73.) There are no seams allowed on the pattern. The edge of the pattern, as in the middy, is the line where the seams are to be joined. This in- dicates the stitching line. Allow %" for all seams. Do not trim the edges on the two fronts until the shirt waist has been tried on and until the style of the collar and the closing of the front have been decided upon. Creasing and Pressing the Seams Do not remove the paper pattern from the ma- terial until all of the edges are turned back over the pattern. 1. Pin the pattern securely to the material. 2. Fold one layer of the material over the paper pattern at the neck, the shoulder seams, the underarm seams, the armseye, and the waist- line. Turn over only one layer of the material. Crease this well over the edges. Crease it first by hand and then press it with a hot iron. (See Fig. 74.) 3. On the opposite side crease the extending 208 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS seams back so that the two creased edges are exactly even. Press with a hot iron. 4. In washable material crease and press the center front. In silk or woolen material mark Fig. 74. — Shirt Waist Pattern Pinned to Material A, Seams creased over the pattern : B, arm seam notched to fit the pattern the center front with a contrasting basting thread or with tailor's chalk. SHIRT WAIST 209 5. Turn back and crease a %" turn around the top of each sleeve. Making Shoulder Seam 1. Take the front and the back and lay the right side of the pressed back shoulder seams directly over the right side of the pressed front shoulder seams, letting the front seams extend. 2. Be sure that the points at the neck NV and the points near the armseye Q and W ex- actly meet. Put pins at right angles to the seam at these points and a pin in the center of the shoulder seam. Stitch close to the edge without basting. 3. Turn the waist inside out and make a flat fell seam. This seam varies in width accord- ing to the type of shirt waist. For an average shirt waist 14'' seam is the accepted width. If the material does not fray and one is in a hurry a second stitching may be made on the right side 1/4'' from the first without turning the edge under on the inside. This will give a quicker and an equally satisfactory finish. Putting in the Sleeve The sleeve may be sewed with: 1. A flat fell similar to the shoulder seam of the middy. For this method see Fig. 67 A. 210 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 2. A French seam. 3. A French fell. Pinning the Band to the Waist 1. Pin the center of the back of the waist to the point marked the center back of the waist band. 2. Pin each side seam to the corresponding ^Mjalance point," marked on each side of the center of the hand. 3. Pin each center front to each end of the band. 4. Draw up the basting thread around the waistline to fit the band. 5. Fasten the ends of the basting thread around the pins at each front. 6. Adjust the fullness at the waist to the band. See that most of the fullness comes to- ward the center of the front. On each side of the underarm seam for IV2" there should be no fullness. 7. Adjust the fullness in the back. See that most of the fullness is in the center of the back and that the fullness is evenly divided. 8. Pin the fullness in place. Fitting the Shirt Waist 1. Try on the shirt waist and pin together carefully the ends of the band with the lines indicating the waist measure. (See P^ig. 76 A.) SHIRT WAIST 211 2. Pin the line which marks the center front of the right side to the line which marks the center front of the left side. Be sure to have the edges even at the neck. Put three or four pins along the front. Fig. 75. — Shirt Waist Prepared for Fitting A, One-quarter of waist minus three-quarter inch ; B, "bal- ance point." Underarm seam of waist and side seam of skirt meet at this point; C, yoke marked and pinned to waist. 3. Adjust the shoulder seams. See that the sleeve hangs straight over the arm. Adjust the 212 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS length of the sleeve. Decide on the width of the cufP. 4. Examine the underarm seam. See that the waistline and the band are properly placed. Fig. 76. — Shirt Waist Prepared for Fitting (Front view.) A, One-quarter of waist measure plus %"; B, "balance point"; C, collar turned under; D, connecting points of yoke and waist. 5. Examine the neck. See that the neck line is well rounded and well marked. There should SHIRT WAIST 213 not be any points at the end of the shoulder seams. 6. Decide upon the front closing. 7. Decide upon the type of collar. Making the Waist After the waist has been examined and any necessary alterations have been made sew the sleeves and underarm seams with a French seam. Front Closing 1. Measure from the marked center front on the right side front 2" towards the front edge of the waist. Measure this on the top and on the bottom of the waist and draw a line with the dull end of a scissors. 2. Fold and crease the line firmly on the right side along the center front line. 3. Put the edge of the extending 2" on the center front line. 4. Turn the raw edges under so that both edges are exactly even. 5. Baste the two folds together 1/2" from the edge. Left Side Front Make a %" hem on the inside of the left side front and stitch this in the traced center front line. 214 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS To Make Looped Buttonholes (See Fig. 71). 1. Take 12'' of bias banding 1/2" wide and stitch the turned edges together and very close to the edge of the fold. 2. Divide this into six pieces. 3. Take one of these pieces and fold it with the cut ends together. 4. Let the stitching line form the top line. Crease it well. 5. Turn the center fold toward the inside. The stitching lines will meet and will form a point at the end. 6. Run a basting thread near the cut edges so as to hold the seams together. 7. Make the remaining buttonholes like the one just finished. Putting the Buttonholes on the Waist The buttonholes are put in between the front edges of the right side front in groups of three. Leave 14" between the buttonholes. The first group should come exactly below the opening of the neck of the collar. Place the second group 3" below the first group. The length of the buttonhole depends on the size of the button. Finishing the Bottom of the Shirt Waist The bottom of the shirt waist may be finished SHIRT WAIST 215 with a rubber, by sewing the shirt waist into a band, by sewing a waist band to tlie shirt waist and having the bottom extend below. 1. First Method (a) Make a ^'^ hem all around the bottom of the shirt waist. (b) Cut a rubber I/2" wide and 2" smaller than the waist measure. (c) Draw the rubber through the hem. (d) Fasten the ends of the rubber securely into the hem at each end. Stitch the ends and the rubber several times. (e) Find the center of the rubber and the center back of the waist and stitch through this place several times. 2. Second MetJiod The band may be made out of anv remnants of muslin and may be pieced several times. The width is optional. The finished band may be r', 2", or 21/0'' wide. (a) Cut a band twice the desired v/idtli plus 1/4" for turning under, and the length of the waist measure plus 4". (b) Prepare the band according to the di- rections given. (c) In sewing the band to the waist, follow the directions given for the sewing apron. 216 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 3. Third Method (a) Use either a %'' webbing or make a band out of remnants. (b) Find the center and the balance point. Pin this band at the center back and at the marked waistline and sew the side seams. (c) Stitch all around the band. Stitch only as far as the side seams. (d) Leave the front of the waist loose. The waist will iron easier. (e) Put a buttonhole and a button at the ends of the band. Sewing on the Collar The collar may be cut after the same pattern as the lining of the collar of the middy. The directions given for sewing on the collar may be followed with a few exceptions. 1. Stitch the collar to the waist and press the seam open. 2. Cut off the raw edges of the seam very close to the edge. 3. Take a 14" tine bias banding and pin this over the seam. 4. Stitch the binding to the shirt waist. Stitch it close to each edge. 5. Be careful to make neat corners. Cuffs The width of the cuff depends on the length SHIRT WAIST 217 of the sleeve. It may be 2", 2%", or 3" wide. Sometimes a wide cuff may be turned over V\ thus forming a revere. The size of the cuff depends on the size of the hand. If the cuff is closed it should slip over the hand easily. Making the Cuff Cut the cuff twice the desired width, and the length plus the seams. 1. Pin the right side of the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve. Make the seam of the cuff and the seam of the sleeve one continuous seam. 2. Pin the center of the cuff to the center of the sleeve. 3. Draw up the gathering thread until the sleeve fits the cuff. 4. Stitch the cuff to the sleeve and proceed as for sewing the band to the apron. Press the shirt waist. Mark the initials on the inside of the front of the belt. Compute the cost; the time. Fitting It is advisable to fit the waist after the shoul- der seams are finished and the sleeves are put in so as to determine the length of the sleeve and the width of the underarm seam. 218 GAEMENTS FOE GIELS 1. Pin the sleeve seam together. Start from the underarm seam. 2. Pin each front and back of the waist to- gether. 3. Eun a strong basting thread along the marked waistline. Preparing the Band 1. Take a piece of muslin about V wide and several inches longer than the waist measure. 2. From the center measure a distance equal to one-half of the waist measure. 3. Put pins at each point thus measured. 4. Fold the band so as to find the middle of these pieces and the center of the band, and put pins at these points. This will divide the band into four equal parts. 5. From each of the center points marked by pins, measure '^^" toward the center back of the band. Mark these points with either a pencil or a contrasting thread. The band will meas- ure from the back toward the side % of the w^aist measure minus %", and the side toward the front will measure 14 the waist measure plus %". The point thus obtained is called the *' balance point/' and it is an important one, since all seams are laid with reference to it. SHIRT WAIST 219 TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Draft the pattern. 2. Cut out the pattern. 3. Place and pin the pattern on the material. 4. Press the seams of the back, the front, and the sleeves of the shirt waist over the paper pattern. 5. Pin the shoulder seams together. 6. Stitch the shoulder seams together. 7. Pin the sleeves into the shirt waist. 8. Stitch the sleeves into the shirt waist. 9. Pin the seams of the sleeves and the underarm seams. 10. Draw a strong shirring thread around the traced waistline. 11. Prepare the waist band. 12. Pin the waist band around the waistline. 13. Draw up the shirring thread around the waist- line to fit the band. 14. Try on the shirt waist. 15. Pin the band together in front. 16. Pin the front together. 17. Adjust the shirt waist in its proper place and look for alterations. 18. Make the necessary alterations. 19. Decide how low the neck is to be cut. 20. Decide on the front closing. 21. Decide on the width of the cuffs. 22. Make the front closing. 23. Sew on the collar. 24. Sew on the cuffs. 25. Finish the waist around the bottom. 220 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 26. Press the waist. 27. Compute the cost. 28. Figure out the time. QUESTIONS 1. What are the required measurements for a shirt waist ? 2. How are they taken? 3. Is it always necessary to take all of these meas- urements ? 4. How are the measurements of the shirt waist related to each other? 5. What width of material cuts to best advantage for the shirt waist? 6. What materials are best suited for shirt waists to be worn on different occasions? 7. What is the average amount of material re- quired to make a shirt waist? 8. Mention different ways that a shirt waist may be finislied around the neck, along the front, around the cuff, and at the bottom. 9. What short cuts can be suggested in the mak- ing of a shirt waist? 10. What seams are used in the shirt waist? CHAPTER XVI CORSET COVER The corset cover is a garment worn by every girl. Sometimes it is used in combination with a petticoat, sometimes in combination with a chemise or drawers. No matter how it is used, Fio 77— Corset Cover Fix- Fig. 78.— Corset Cover Fin- ished WITH A Band at the ished vi^ith a "Peplum" Waistline at the Waistline the shirtwaist pattern may always be used. The only difference is that the corset cover is cut out deeper around the back and the front neck. The shoulder seam in the corset cover near the arm- 221 222 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS hole is ordinarily from 1" to V/^^ wide. This width varies according to the trimming. The material which is used for undergar- ments such as muslin, longcloth, cambric, and nainsook, may be used for the corset cover. The choice of material and the trimming should depend upon the wear the garment will have. PXG. 79. — French Uxdeiiwf:ar with Valenciennes Laces AND Insertions For everyday wear, good strong muslin, long- cloth, or cambric are the most durable mate- rials. Use only such trimming as will outwear the material. Flimsy laces and ribbons should be worn only on rare occasions. (Fig. 79.) Adapting the Shirt Waist Pattern to the Corset Cover Do not cut up the shirt waist pattern. Cut CORSET COVER 223 out another one and on this one cut out the back and the front neck. (See Fig. 80.) WS Measure from W IV2" on the VVU line and locate S. LI From L on the LI line, measure 8^2'') and locate I. Connect S and 1 by a curved line Fig. 80. — Draft for Corset Cover and I and L by a straight line. Repeat the same in the back. QiS From Q on the QN line, measure V//% and locate S^. 224 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS KI From K on the KO line, measure Sy^'% and locate I^. Connect I^ and S^ by a curved line and I^ and K by a straight line. Cut out the back and front neck along these lines. Ordinarily the front is cut out T' lower than the back. Before cutting away the material, decide on the trimming and on the finish of the neck and the armseyes. The neck may be cut square or round. Parts of the Corset Cover Back piece, 2 front pieces, 1 belt. Required Material 30'' of 27" material will make a corset cover for an average person, and a piece 15'' by 8" will be loft. The same length will be needed if 36" inaterial is used and there will be twice as much left. It is, therefore, more eccmomical to cut two corset covers, as one length of 50" will make 2 corset covers, or three, as 64" will make three corset covers. There are enough pieces from wliich the bands may be cut. Plachifj the Pattern on the Material (See Fig. 81.) CORSET COVER 225 Tracing the Pattern on the Material and Cut- ting the Corset Cover With the tracing wheel, trace all around each part of the pattern. Be sure to trace around the center front line. No seams are allowed on the pattern; therefore, allow 14/' seam all around except at the front. Here V to 2" must be allowed, according to the front closing. In cutting out two or more corset covers, pin the pieces for each garment together carefully. Making The fronts may be finished by making a plain %'' hem on both the right and the left side, a box pleat, or an invisible closing. The first method is so simple that it does not need any explanation. The second method is explained in the making of the shirt waist. The third method, on account of the transparent waists which are being worn at the present time, is preferred now. No button or buttonholes show in this method of closing. Making the Invisible Closing I. Bight Side Front 1. Along the marked center front on the right side of the front piece, measure %" to- ward the front edge. 226 GARMENTS FOE GIRLS Fig. 81.— Corset Coveu Patteun. Three covers can be made from 03 inches of material CORSET COVER 227 2. Draw a thread at this point. Fold the extending material towards the inside and crease the fold well. 3. Turn a -^4" ^^^^^ on the left side and crease this well. 4. Cut a piece of material 1'54" wide and the length of the front of the corset cover. 5. Fold this piece through the center length- wise and crease it well. This is the piece (called the fly) which will be put under the hem. The buttonholes will be cut in this piece. 6. Slip the cut edges of this piece under the hem of the front just turned. 7. Let this piece extend 1/10" less than the width of tlie hem. It will be turned on to the hem and must not extend beyond it. 8. Baste the fly and the hem to the corset cover. II. Left Side Front Turn the hem on the left side %'' narrower than the one on the right side. The right side overlaps the left side and no stitches of this hem should be visible. Crease, pin, or baste the front hems only. The stitching should be done after the corset cover has been fitted. Side Seam (French Seam) 1. Pin the back to the front with the wrong sides together. 228 GARl\rENTS FOR GIRLS 2. Begin at the waistliiiG and make sure that the tracing indicating the back waistline and the tracing indicating the front waistline meet accurately. 3. Then put a few pins at right angles to the seam. The tracing line of the front and hack armseye should also meet. Pin each side seam and then stitch the first seam by machine. The second will be stitched after fitting. Pin the shoulder seam together. Cut a gathering thread at the waistline. Preparing the Bmul for the Corset Cover 1. Cut off a band 4" longer than the waist measure, the 4" to be divided as follows : 1" on each side to be turned under to reinforce the band at the button and the buttonhole, V to be allowed for shrinkage, and V for the lapping of the right over the left side. 2". Fold the band end to end to find the cen- ter back. Mark this with a running stitch of contrasting thread. 3. From the center back, on both sides, take one-fourth of the waist measure and from this subtract %''. This will locate the points for the underarm seams. Mark each of these points with contrasting thread. 4. On each side of the center back mark one- half of the waist measure plus V\ This inch CORSET COVER 229 is allowed for shrinkage and lapping. Mark these points also with a contrasthig thread. 5. At each end turn under V allowed for reinforcing the fastenings. 6. Pin the right side and the center back of the belt to the wrong side and the center back of the corset cover. Pin exactly at the traced waistline. 7. Pin each marked side seam of the band to the nnderai'm seam of the corset cover. 8. Pin each front to each end of the band. Be sure that the edges of the band and the front meet very accurately. 9. Draw up the gathering thread around the waist to lit the band. 10. On each side of the side seam leave a space of 1%'' without gathering. 11. Arrange the gathers carefully. Leave more gathers at the center back and near each center front than at the sides. 12. Baste the band to the corset cover se- curely. Follow the waistline tracing. (Fig. 77.) Making After the front closing is made, the side seam stitched once, the shoulder seam j)ii^ii('^^ to- gether, and the band basted in its proper place, the corset cover should be fitted. Put every 230 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS seam in its proper place and any mistakes will be quickly seen. 1. First pin the corset cover together at the waistline. 2. Then pin the fronts together as they should be when the garment is finished. 3. See that the shoulder and underarm seams are in their proper places. 4. The armseye should fit snugly under the arm. If it is too loose take in at the underarm seam; if it is too narrow, cut notches enough to make the arm comfortable ; but before making many alterations, examine the shoulder seam. This, as well as the underarm seam, helps to regulate the width of the armseye. 5. The corset cover should not fit tight over the bust. 6. The fullness can be regulated by the un- derarm and the front closing. If the garment should be too tight, the under part of the hem may be left out and a false hem may be added. Hold the trimming around the neck and the sleeve of the corset cover and decide how far neck and armseye may be cut out. The corset cover should fit snugly around the armseye, but it should not bind. 7. After having decided upon all these points : (a) P^inish the front closing. CORSET COVER 231 (b) Finish the underarm seam with a French seam. (c) Join the shoulder seams with a flat fell. (d) Stitch the band securely to the corset cover and open this seam well and then press it back on the band. (e) Make an even turn of %'' on the cut edge of the band and turn it over, the last stitching to be on the right side of the corset cover. (f) Overhand each edge of the band at the front. (g) Stitch the band down close to the turned edge and all around it. Fastenhifis 1. Make one horizontal fan and barred but- tonhole in the band, ^fake the first buttonhole in the fly and directly under the trimming. 2. Divide the right side front into three or four parts and cut the first buttonhole up and down, and near the trimming of the neck cut the other two or three buttonholes at equal dis- tances. Trimming of the Neck mid the Armseyes A great variety of trimmings may be used for corset covers but the aim should be to have the trimming durable as w^ell as pretty. Rib- bon in underwear should be used only on rare 232 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS occasions, and not for daily wear. To draw in the surplus fullness around the neck, crocheted cords or tape may be used. TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Prepare the right side front closing. 2. Prepare the left side front closing. 3. Make the underarm seam. Stitch the first seam for the French seam only. 4. Make two rows of gathering threads around the bottom. 5. Prepare the band. 6. Pin the corset cover to the band. 7. Pin the shoulder seam together, seam on the right side. 8. Fit the corset cover and if there are to be any alterations, make them. Decide on the neck finish- ing and the cutting out of the neck. 9. Stitch the shoulder seams. Make a flat felled seam. 10. Finish the underarm seam. 11. Stitch the band to the corset cover. 12. Stitch the front closing. 13. Finish each armseye and the neck. 14. Cut the buttonholes. 15. Sew on the buttons. 16. Mark the initials. CORSET COVER 233 QUESTIONS 1. What pattern may be used in cutting out the corset cover? 2. What changes are made in the pattern ? 3. Name suitable materials that may be used for the corset cover. 4. Name suitable trimming that may be used. 5. What points are to be considered in selecting the material ? The trimming ? 6. Mention different ways of finishing the top, the bottom, and the front closing. 7. What seams are used in the making of the cor- set cover? 8. What is the most economical way to cut out the corset cover? CHAPTER XVII EXVELOPE CHEMISE The envelope chemise is a garment which at the present time is well liked and much worn by young girls. It is a combination of corset cover and drawers. Muslin, longcloth, cotton crepe or seersucker is the material most commonly used for the chemise. For fine garments, nain- sook may also be used. (Figs. 82 and 83.) Required Material Two lengths of 36" material, measured from the shoulder to the knee, are re- quired to make this garment. Pattern The back of the shirt waist pattern is used in making the top of the envelope chemise. Folding the Material for Cutting (See Fig. 84). 1. Take the two required lengths of the ma- terial and fold them through the center cross- wise and then lengthwise. Make the folds even 234 ENVELOPE CHEMISE 235 and pin the selvages together. Place the ma- terial in front of you with the folded edge on the left side, the selvage on the right side and the cut edges on the top. Fig. 82 Fig. 8;1 — Back and Right Side ok Envelope Chemise A, Box pleat. B, Box^ plfat stitcho^d U/o" on each side of the pleat. Fig. 82. — Front of Envelope Chemise A, Fullness taken up with tucks. B, Reinforced front closing. 2. Take the back of the shii't waist pattern and place it with the center of the back 3" from the folded edge so that the center back line G is parallel with the folded edge of the goods and 3" from that edge, and the center 236 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS of the neck line E is at the cut edge of the goods and 3" from the folded edge AB. The addi- FiG. 84. — Draft fob Envelope Chemise ENVELOPE CHEMISE 237 tional 3'^ will allow for the necessary fullness. 3. Pin the pattern securely to the cloth. 4. This garment is cut out lower around the neck than the shirt waist. Therefore, on the shoulder seam, measure 2'' from the armseye toward the neck, and locate N'-. (See Fig. 84.) 6. Prom E on the center back measure down 3I/2'', and locate K. From K draw a line 3^4'' long and parallel to the bottom of the pattern, and locate Z. Connect Z and N by a curved line. This forms the curve of the back neck line. The front neck line is drawn 1" deeper than the back. (See K.Z,.) Connect Z, with N^. Extend the KZ line to the AB line and at a point V^ from the folded edge AB draw a line 3" long and parallel to the AB Ihie. This will in- dicate the place for the first tuck. Draw three additional lines parallel to this first line, and 14'' apart, to indicate the remaining tucks in this group. From the last line in this group, measure 1" and draw a line 3" long parallel to the first group of lines. Then draw four more lines parallel to this first line and y^" apart for the second group of tucks. (See Fig. 84 Kg Zo.) Bottom of Chemise (See Fig. 84). The bottom of this chemise may be finished in different ways. The model here presented is 238 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS very simple in construction. It may be made with or without the center scallop FJ. Preparing fJie Material for the Scallops 1. Take the lower folded edge and fold it lengthwise in the middle. Crease and press this well. This fold is indicated by FJ (Fig. 84). 2. Then fold it again. Press this also. This will divide the width of the material BI) into four parts, and is indicated by I and l., (Fig. 84). From the lower folded edge D, measure upward on the selvage 2", and locate H. Connect H with the waist line S by a straight line. From the lower folded edge B measure 4" upward on the folded AB line, and locate L. Draw a 2" square in the lower left-hand cor- ner and locate BM and NO, connecting the dif- ferent points at the bottom. Connect LN by a straight line and NIP^ loH by curved lines. For these curves use the curves marked ''neck curves" on the chart. Tracinff With the tracing wheel trace: 1. Around the extended neck line KoZo. 2. Trace closely around the edge of the pat- tern marked ''back of shirt waist" as far as ENVELOPE CHEMISE 239 the center waistline. Then trace the waistline and extend the line to the folded edge of the goods. 1). At the bottom trace the front curve LNI. 4. Trace the tucks very plainly, so that they may be seen on both thicknesses of the cloth. Cutting Out the Material 1. Cut out the upper extended neck curve KZN-\ 2. The shoulder seam N.Q and the armseye QOR. 3. The side seam RSH. 4. Around the bottom HT<,F, as far as T. 5. At this point cut out the upper layer only, NL. Take off the upper part of the goods. This is the front. The longer piece with the folded corners which remains forms the back part of the chemise. 6. From this piece cut out, in the center of the back from the extended waistline to the neck, the 3'' allowed for fullness. This will give the needed fullness in the seat and less full- ness in the back of the waist. Makiuf) 1. Stitch the tucks in the front. 2. Make French seams for the side seams, 240 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS or, if the material is soft and firm, French fell seams may be used. This is a satisfactory seam if the material is l)oth thin and firm. 3. Use the same type of seam for the back seam. 4. The center of the fokl of the material meets the seam at tlie back so that it forms a box pleat IV2" 011 t'^di side of the center side of the seam. (See Fio-. S3 A, B.) 5. Crease this pleat well on both sides and baste it to the garment. 6. Take a piece of bias binding and pin this over the pleat. Turn the edges of the binding under on each side. 7. Stitch the binding to the garment, fol- lowing the edge very closely. Reinforcing the Front Reinforce the point L at the center front with a double piece of material 2i/>" by 2" when fin- ished so that the buttonholes will not tear out so easily. To make it: 1. Cut a piece of muslin 5yo" long and 2i/4" wide. 2. Fold this through the middle crosswise. 3. Stitch a plain seam on the two longer sides. 4. Open these seams and turn this piece in- side out. ENVELOPE CHEMISE 241 5. Crease it until it is even and flat, and fold it through the center lengthwise. 6. Measure 1" on the crease from the folded edge and put a pin at that point. 7. Put the right side of the garment with the point L directly on the pin in the piece al- ready prepared. 8. Baste this piece carefully to the chemise. See that the warp and woof threads of the piece and the chemise run parallel. 9. Make two rows of stitching, the first one very close to the edge, and the second Vs" away. (See Fig. 82 B.) Fitting the Garment Pin the shoulder seams together and try the garment on. See that it hangs perfectly straight in the front and in the back, and that the shoulder seams are in place. See that the garment fits snugly around the underarm and shoulder. Adjust the length and the width of the shoulder seam. This varies according to the type of trimming. Shoulder Seam A flat fell is used for the shoulder seam. Selecting the Trimming for Undergarments The neck, the armseye, and the bottom may 242 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS be finished in many different ways. Tatting, crocheted hice, ready-made hice, or embroidery beading and edging may be used. The essential point to decide upon is the dur- ability of the trimming. It must be strong enough to outwear the garment. Flimsy, cheap Valenciennes laces should never be used on un- dergarments which are intended for daily wear. If the selection of the trimming for the under- garment is not carefully made you may have : 1. To spend a great deal of time each week in keeping your undergarments pressed. W you do not do it, some one will have to do it for you. 2. If you have your undergarments laun- dered outside the home, you will have to pay more for laundering. The life of the garment is shortened, and after a few washings you will have to mend them and soon replace the worn- out lace. You will incur not only double outlay of money but also a great loss of time. The best trimming for undergarments for daily wear is handmade, either tatting or cro- cheted edging. No cotton coarser than No. 70 should be used and the crocheting should be done tightly. If you do not have the time to make your own trimming, then buy either a good strong embroidery, on which the scallops are firm, or select a good Cluny or torchon lace made ENVELOPE CHEMISE 243 either of linen or cotton. Avoid Valenciennes; use this only on very fine materials. Finishing the Neck, the Armseye, and the Bot- tom I. First Method 1. Alake an even %'' turn from the right to the inside of the garment, all around the neck, the armseye, and the bottom of the garment. Crease this well and press with a hot iron. 2. Take a 1/4" bias binding and baste it all around the turned edge, using a fine needle and thread. Do not use a wide binding or there will be trouble with the curves. Stretch either the lower or the upper edge of the binding to fit the curves. Miter the corners. Be careful to see that the edges are even. Begin at the middle of the back and at the underarm seam. 3. Stitch close to the inner edge of the bind- ing or finish this on the right side with a feather- stitch. 4. (a) Pin the lace to the garment. Put the pins at right angles to the edge. (b) Hold the lace towards you and sew from the right to the left. (c) Sew the lace on with an overhand stitch. (d) Make a short, shallow stitch. Take only one thread of the turned edges and sew this to the lace. 244 GAEMENTS FOR GIRLS (e) Be careful when tuniing around the curves to full the lace on and allow for the curves. (f ) When turning the corners hold the lace in. Be sure to have as little fullness as pos- sible around the corners. (g) If the edge of the lace is smooth, the lace may be slipped inside, between the binding and the garment and then the three parts, lace, garment, and binding may be stitched together in one stitching. II. Second MetJiod This method saves binding. 1. Put the right side of the lace to the right side of the garment with the selvage of the lace toward the raw edge. 2. Place and pin, and at the corners baste the lace i/t" from the cut edges of the neck and armseye and around the l)ottom. 3. Stitch the lace to the garment, stitching very close to the edge of the lace. 4. Fold the lace back over the seam you have just stitched and crease the material firmly. 5. Turn the garment inside out. At the edge of the lace, turn as narrow a hem as pos- sible (i/s" if the material will allow it). Cut away any surplus material. 6. Crease and pin this hem well. It is ad- ENVELOPE CPIEMTSE 245 visable to baste it around the corners. Stitch very close to the edge of the turn. 7. Join the ends of the trimming with an invisible and strong finish. Fig. H6 illustrates the sewing on of laces and the s]^acing of tucks that may be used in the finishing of undergarments. Fig. 85. — Details of Quick Method of Sewing on Lace BY Machine A, Rijjht side of lace pnt on rijzht side of material: B. lace stitched ; ('. ed^fe of mntorial licmmed ; D, ri^iht side of finislied edire: E. edi>e hemmed by hand; F, lace sewed on with over- hand stitch. Making the Strap To allow for more room in the back of the chemise a strap may be added to the point L. This strap is made of two thicknesses of mate- rial and is 6" by 2" when finished. 1. Cut a piece of muslin I2V2'' by 2i/^" and fold it crosswise. 246 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 2. Make a plain seam on the long sides. 3. Open the seam and turn it inside out. 4. Finish the short open end. 5. Fold through the center lengthwise and crease the fold. 6. Put the back of the chemise with the point Fig. so. — French Underwear with Good Spacing of Tucks L on this center fold. Put it so that the edge of the strap meets the edges of the chemise. 7. Baste it in place and then finish with two rows of stitching. Seu'Wfi fhe Sfrai) to the Garment 1. Fold the strap through the center length- wise. Crease this well. On this crease meas- ure 2" from the end and put in a pin. 2. Take the garment and put the right side ENVELOPE CHEMISE 247 of the center back point L directly over the point marked by the pin. 3. Adjust this exactly to the center of the point, and see that the lower edge of the strap meets evenly with the warp thread of the gar- ment. 4. Baste the strap carefully to the garment, and then stitch very closely all round. The neatest way is to follow the stitching of the binding on the right side of the garment. 5. For greater strength, make a second row of stitching '/s" from the first row. G. Be very careful to stitch square cor- ners. Buttons and Buttonholes On the fjiece stitched to reinforce the front, mark two buttonhok'S %" long and directly un- der the sti telling Vi" from the edge. As there are three thicknesses of material, it is best to stitch closely by machine with a very fine thread around the marked buttonhole before it is cut.' Then the material will not fray. Make two bars on each of the buttonholes. Button Select a very flat button, preferably a cloth lingerie button that fits snugly, but not too tight, in the buttonhole. Sew the l)uttoii on 248 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS firmly with a No. 40 single thread and fasten the end of the thread with a few buttonhole stitches. Markiyig In the center front, 1" below the bhis binding, niai'k Your initials and embroider these with a satin stitch. Pressing Press and fold the garment. Compute the cost; the time. TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 1. Fold the material for drafting the pattern. 2. Pin the back of the shirt waist pattern to the cloth and draft the pattern. 3. Trace tlie tucks. 4. Cut out the envelope chemise. 5. ^Take the tucks. 6. Cut out the piece from the center of the back. 7. Sew up the back seam. 8. Sew up the side seams. 9. Reinforce the center front at the bottom. 10. Put on the trimming around the neck, the armseyes and the bottom. 11. Prepare the strap. 12. Sew on the straj). 18. Make the buttonlioles. 14. Sew on the l)uttons. 15. Make the initial. ENVELOPE CHEMISE 249 16. Press nnd fold the garment. 17. Compute the cost. 18. Figure out the time. QUESTIONS 1. What materials may be used for making the envelope chemise ? 2. What trimmings may be used? 3. What pattern may be used to cut out the en- velope chemise? 4. What changes are made in the pattern? 5. What garment is replaced by the envelope chemise? 6. What are the advantages and disadvantages of this garment? 7. Name different ways that the envelope chemise may be finished at the top. At the bottom. 8. What seams are used in makino* the garment? I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 145 740 8