■,!; i <> ■V, <■„ .0* :- : A v^-v*^ ■■^.y\:m^y\m HOME AUTHOBS HOME ARTISTS; AMERICAN SCENERY, ART, AND LITERATURE. COltPBISISG A SERIES OF ESSAYS BY WASHINGTON IRVING, W. C. BRYANT, FENIMORE COOPER .Miss COOPER, X. P. WILLIS, BAYARD TAYLOR, II. T. TUCKERMAN, E. L. MAGOON, DR BETHUNE, A B. STREET, MISS FIELD, ETC. WITH THIRTEEN ENGRAVINGS ON STEEL, FROM ricil RES M EfflXEXT ARTISTS, ENGRAVED EXPRESSLY FOR THIS WORK NEW YORK: L E A V I T T A N D A L L E N 27 DEY STREET. ■ H 3S OS 2 - CONTENTS. AUTHORS DEDICATION v PI BUSKER'S NOTICE vii SCENERY ANi> \IINH. . . . . . E. 1.. Ma 1 VIEW NEAR RONDOUT, to AMERICAN AN"]) EUROPEAN SCENERY COMPARED, J. Fenimore Cooper 51 THE -CATSKILL MOUNTAINS, .... Washington Irving 71 A DISSOLVING VIEW, Miss Coo 79 THE SCENERY OE PENNSYLVANIA, . . . Bayard Taylor 95 THE HIGHLAND TERRACE, ABOVE WEST POINT NT. P. Willis L05 WA-WA-YAN-DAH LAKE, NEW JERSEY, 113 OVER THE MiM STTAINS, OR THE WESTERN PIONEER, H. T. Tm LIB WEST ROOK, NEW HAVEN Maui E. Field L37 THE ERIE RAILROAD, ..... Bat mm. Taylor I 13 THE CHI RCH OF THE HOLY INNOCENTS, WEST POINT, . . 151 THE VALLEY OF THE HOUSATONIO, . . . Wm. C. Bryant LBS THE ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS, . . . Alfred B. Streei 161 SCHROON LAKE ART IN THE UNITED STATES. . . . i ; w ; LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. THE BAY OF NEW-YORK, . CASCADE BRIDGE ERIE RAILROAD, . THE RONDOUT, CATSRTLL SCENERY, .... CATSKHX, l.V THE CLOVE, . THE JTJNIATTA, PENN. WA-WA-YAN-DAH LAKE COWETA CREEK, NORTH CAROLINA, WEST ROCK, NEW HAVEN, . THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY INNOCENTS WEST POINT, THE HOUSATONIC VALLEY, ADIRONDACK SCENERY, SCHROON LAKE l'AINTEK. II. Beohwitu J. Tali D. HuNTDiOTON J. F. Kexsett A. B. DtJRAND J. Talbot J. F. Cropsey T. A. RlCHARDS F. E. Church iVF.K. PAGE H. BfiCKWlTH Front J. II.W.I'IN R. W. Weir R, GlGNOl S A. B. DUEAND T. Cole & V. Hint II. Beckwitii II. B» KW1IH II. Beckwitii S. V. HINT S. Y. IkNT S. V. Hu.vr S. V. Him J. Halfin .1. Kirs n. Beckwitii l'.i 71 78 113 115 137 l.-.l 165 161 ll TO A. B. DURAND, in host of THE NATIONAL ACADEMY OF THE l"!\i: HITS, THIS WORK, INTENDED AS AN INITIATOR! BUGGE6TION FOR POPl'LAKIZING SOME OF THE CHARACTERISTH Jlmrriniii ITnnttnrnpt nuil Smrrirnit M, IS. 1', V PERMISSION, I ! K S 1 ' K < ' T F II L L Y D E I) I C A T E D , i;v THE PUBLISHER. PUBLISHER'S NOTICE That American artists bave ample scope for tlie developmeirl of genius, in the departmenl of landscape painting, is a truism too self- evident to need any argumentative dissertations. A very laudable degree of success in the cultivation of this genius, is also evident in man] of our private drawing-rooms, as ■well as public exhibitions. Believing thai ample material thus exists Cor illustrating the picturesque beauties of American landscape, the publisher bas ven- tured to undertake this volume as an experiment, to ascertain bow far the taste of our people may warrant the production of bome- manufactured presentation-books, and how far we can successfully compete with those from abroad. In the higher range of orna- mental books of this class, such as are sought for by our liberal, gift-giving people, we bave heretofore depended almosl exclusively upon our importations from Europe. It is not to be pretended that this volume, even in its depart- ment, has reached the highest degree of excellence. The engravi are perhaps of too i lerate size to do anything like justice to the inal pictures, and they are doubtless still capable of improve- 8 PUBLISHERS NOTICE. meat, although it will be conceded that the engravers have done their part with taste and skill. Whether the volume shows any progress, however, in American book-making, must be left to the public decision. If that tribunal affords the needful encouragement, this may be followed by future volumes of similar import, but more worthy of the artists and of the country. The publisher begs leave to return his acknowledgments to those who have so kindly aided him in making this experiment — particu- larly to Mr. Durand, the distinguished president of the Academy, and to Messrs. Huntington, Church, Kensett, "Weir, Talbot, Cropsey, and Richards, all of whom have won so much distinction as land- scape painters. To the gentlemen who have kindly loaned pictures for engraving, the publisher is under special obligation, particularly to Cyrus W. Field, Esq., for Mr. Church's charming picture of West Rock ; to General J. A. Dix, for that of Rondout, by Huntington ; to Mrs. Cole, for the picture of Schroon Lake, by her late husband ; to Mr. C. H. Rogers for Mr. Talbot's "Juniata," and to Mr. J. W. Whitefield for the same artist's " Cascade Bridge." It is superfluous to refer to the eminent writers who have zealously contributed to the substantial value of the volume by their able essays. The reader can appreciate them without note or comment. The publisher would merely allude to the self-evident fact, that this volume does not claim to represent the American landscape painters in any thing like proper proportion. It was only practi- cable to give in this such specimens as were accessible, of only a small proportion of those artists who would worthily adorn such a book. K we are permitted to proceed with another volume, a dozen or two more names will at once occur to the reader as quite essen- tial for such a purpose. a. p. p. SCENERY AND MIND. BY E. L. MAGOOH, A. \l. " my Native Land ' How shouldst thou prove aught else but dear and liolj To me, who from thy lakes and mountain hills, Thy clouds, thy quiet dales, thy rocks and seas, Have drunk in all my intellectual life, All Bweet sensations, all ennobling thoughts, All adoration of the *>"il in nature. All lovely ami all honorable things, Whatever makes this mortal spirit feel The joy ami greatness of its future lieing ? There lives nor form nor feeling in my soul Unborrowed from my country." Coleridgi (J«»D made the human soul illustrious, and designed il for exalted pursuits and a glorious destiny. To expand our finite faculties, and afford them a culture both profound and elevating, Nature is spread around u<, with all its stupendous proportions, and Revelation speaks to as of an eternal augmentation of knowledge hereafter, for weal or woe. 1 2 SCENERY AND MIND. Above, beneath, and on every side, open the avenues of infinite pro- gression, through which we are to advance without pause, and expand without limit. Here, in this dim arena of earth, an immortal essence throbs at our heart in harmony with the infinite and eternal. The day-star of thought arises on the soul, and, with our first rational exercise, begins an existence which may experience many vicissitudes, may pass through many transitions, but can never terminate. The soul, vivified with power to think, will outlive the universe which feeds its thought, and will be still practising its juvenile excursions at the mere outset of its opening career, while suns and systems, shorn of their glories, shall sink, in shattered ruins, to the caverns of eternal oblivion. The two great capacities, correspondent to the two great natural elements alluded to above, — the power of perceiving the beautiful and feeling the sul dime, — are at once the products and proofs of inherent immortality. They indicate endowments which it is bliss to improve, and a destiny which it will be fearful indeed to neglect. All sentient beings may have an eye that can see, and an ear that can hear ; but to be gifted with a heart that can feel, constitutes the chief characteristic of a living soul. Animals are created perfect, while mankind are made perfectible by virtue of loftier capacities. Instinct is compelled to pause over what it dimly perceives, but mind perpetually quickens its vision, as well as its speed, through the mag- nificent unfoldings of its unbounded progress. The senses educate the capabilities. Our lower nature is first susceptible to impression ; and from this source, at a very early period, influences arise which, when once stereotj ped upon the soul, are ineffaceable forever. What is the destiny of that little stranger, just emerged from mysterious night into life active and eternal ? What is to be the history of that glim- mering spark, struck from nothingness by the all-creating rock, and filled with a fulness of being that will shine when the stars are s c r \ i i: v a \ i> mind. 3 extinct? Soon its faculties will untold to external influences. A> ve1 its germs of consciousness lie smothered under the passive and mortal powers ; bul as these are made the avenues of moral health or disease in rarly culture, that tremendous existence which lies before the unconscious babe will prove a blessing or a curse. In relation to everj young denizen of earth, it is an important reflection, thai having once felt, it retains that feeling; the emotion of pleasure it has expe- rienced, thenceforth belongs to itself, and will recur with increased energy; that the pain it has once known belongs to itself, and nun- go on deepening it- pungency forever. Glory <>r infamy is bul a different direction of the same capacities. Soon from that youthful mind will come gleamings of thought and ebullitions of passion, and those same effervescing endowments may form a Catiline or a Cicero. The \eros and Herods, Newtons and Pauls, the scourges of earth, and its greatest benefactors, were once helpless infants. To our mind, this book on American Scenery has an import of the highest order. The diversified landscapes of our country exert no slight influence in creating our character as individuals, and in confirm- ing our destiny as a nation. Oceans, mountains, rivers, cataracts, wild woods, fragranl prairies, and melodious winds, are elements and exem- plifications of that general harmony which subsists throughoul the universe, and which is most potent over the most valuable minds. Every material object was designed for the use and reward of genius, to be turned into an intelligible hieroglyphic, and the memento of purest love. How strong this early influence and affection may become, it is dillicult to say. Hills, valleys, brooks, trees — our firsl and fondest friends beyond the domestic hearth — are never forgotten. Memory recalls the sunnj days of childhood and youth; and, like the green -pot in the desert, in which the weary traveller lingers with delight, bis toils and privations half forgotten, we love to ramble again amidsl SCENERY AND MIND. the scenes of earliest emotion and purest thought, rejoicing still that, wherever exiled, " Trees, and flowers, and brooks, Which do remember me of where I dwelt, Ere my young mind was sacrificed to books, Come as of yore upon me, and can melt My heart with recognition of their looks." We proceed to show that, in the physical universe, what is most abundant, is most ennobling ; what is most exalted, is most influential on the best minds ; and that, for these reasons, national intellect receives a prevailing tone from the peculiar scenery that most abounds. First, in the kingdoms of matter around us, what is most abundant in amount, is most ennobling in use. The mighty magician, Nature, produces the greatest variety of striking effects with the fewest means. There are only a sun, soil, rocks, trees, flowers, water, and an observing soul. Every thing in use depends upon this last, whether to the con- templator " love lends a precious seeing to the eye." Deep in the concave of "heaven is the luminary revealing all ; and deep in the soid of the illumined is a chord tenderly vibrating to the charms of all. The voices of every order of moving things, the silvery tones of flow- ing streams, the trembling tongues of leaves, the inarticulate melody of flowers, the vibrations of mighty hills, and the dread music of the spheres, all sublunary blending with all celestial notes, are not for a moment lost to the heart that listens. The haip of Menmon is not fabulous, properly interpreted. The devout lover of nature, seated on the mountain, or by the ocean, bathed in the golden sheen of opening day, will have his soul often stirred by melody divine as ever resound- ed from the mysterious harmonicon by the waters of the Nile. SCENERY AND MINI). 5 Every rational inhabitant of earth is a focal point in the universe, a profoundly deep centre around which everj thing beautiful and sublime is arranged, and towards which, through the exercise of admi- ration, every refining influence is drawn. Wonderful, indeed, is the radiant thread that runs through every realm of outward creation, and enlinks all their diversified influences with the innermost fibres of the soul. This is the vital nerve by virtue of which the individual is related to the universe, and the universe is equally related to the indi- vidual. Through this, all physical powers combine to relieve spiritual wants. Earth contributes her fulness of wealth and majesty ; air ministers in all the Protean aspects of beauty and sublimity : lire, permeating e'v ery thing graceful and fair, gleams before the scrutinizing eye with a light more vivid than the lightning's Maze; and water is not only "queen of a thousand rills that fall in silver from the dewy stone," diffusing a "dulcet and harmonious breath" from the mosl sylvan haunts of man to his most crowded borne, but from continent to continent " pours the deep, eternal liass in nature's anthem, making music such as charms the ear of God." In this abundance there is an infinite variety, adapted to eveiy grade of intellect, and every condition in life. The hook of nature, which is the art of God, as Revelation is the word of his divinity, unfolds its innumerable leaves, all illuminated with glorious imagery, to the vision of his creature, man, and is designed t show, thai the Qoblesl aspects and energies of nature have tin- finest and firmesl con- trol over the besl minds. AH eminent geniuses are close observers of rural objects, and enthusiastic admirers of imposing scenery. There can lie no approxi- mation towards universal development, save as one lays tin- entire universe under contribution to his personal cultivation, lie must absorb into his expanded soul resources from every kingdom com- petent to render him a sovereign indeed over the realms oi emo- tion and thought. He that would fortifj a onanl arm to -ever an isthmus or tunnel mountains, as a pathway for the nation-, or wield a gianl mind that can quicken and mould the sentiment- of other men gigantic like himself, must habitually feed on that aliment which i- won in stray gifts by whosoever will find, and which, when attained, constitutes "a perpetual feast of nectar'd sweets where no crude surfeil 1 S C E X E E Y AND JI I N D . reigns." Tlie public man whose sphere is most comprehensive, and whose exhausting toils are most distracting, will probably be indebted to youthful and serener avocations in humbler scenes for his sweetest solace and most enduring strength. The experience and sagacity of a great philosopher justify this assertion : " I speak, sir, of those who, though bred up under our unfavorable system of education, have yet held, at times, some intercourse with Nature, and with those great minds whose works have been moulded by the spirit of Nature : who, therefore, when they pass from the seclusion and constraint of early study, bring with them, into the new scene of the world, much of the pure sensibility which is the spring of all that is greatly good in thought and action." All great passions are fed, and all great systems are projected in solitude. Wide and dense masses of mankind form the appropriate held whereon superior talents are to be exercised ; but, to the aspir- ing, the distraction and attrition of large cities are rather evils to be shunned, since they vitiate if not destroy that purity and calm which are essential to the best growth of mind. The predestined hero in moral warfare will avoid the broad and boisterous way, if he be wise ; and, like the Pythagoreans of old, he will betake himself to some sequestered spot, there alone to mature the vigor of his thoughts. If he would elicit a train of sentiments the profoundest and best, let him wander through the shady walks and silent groves of the country, where all things tend to arm and elevate the soul. The song of birds and hum of bees will not profitless fall on his ear. Fields enamelled with verdure, and trees clothed in garments almost divine, the stdlness of nature in her secret glens, and the awful import of her more vocal majesty, must recall the universal Creator in modes the most palpable to a meditative pupil in this university for all designed, and at the same time will most imbue him with the immense repose with which S< i \ 1: i: v a n i> m i n i). 1] creation is crowned. Forma of -lory hovering over foresl and field on tin- river's bank, the lake's brim, ocean's strand, or around moun- tain-peaks, create glorious forms in admiring souls. Thej confer .'11) inspiration which kindles afresh over each now objecl worth] of esteem, and forever keep burning on the altar of the heart a flame which infinitude perpetually draws near hoth to purify and feed. It 'w our bliss to cherish those early recollections, without which all other- are null and void, and which should be wedded to memory foiv\ er. " You of all names the sweetest and the best : You Muses, Books, and Liberty, and Rest : Vim Gardens, Fields, and W Is." It i- no valid objection to our argument to remind us thai some "misuse the bounteous Pan, and think the gods amiss." That is to quote the perversion of a prih ilege, and not its legitimate use. Petrarch, for instance, only aggravated the fires thai consumed him, when he buried himself in the lonely recesses of Vaucluse. Bu1 had he gone there to study "the quahrl mossiness of aged roots" by day, and at nighl gazed with acutest sympathy upon "the star of Jove, so beautiful and large,"- instead of tamely succumbing before "the patient brilliance of the moon ;" had he been ambitious rather to "live in the rainbow and play in the plighted clouds," he might, on the bleakesl summit, and with a richer facility than in the pampered palace, have created " Eschylean shape- of the sublime," and been imbued with energies uobler tar than ever graced the marble porch where wisdom was wonl to teach with Socrates and 'Fully. It has been annum' deserts, on islands, in caverns, or when hidden by other drapers of seclusion the most opaque, thai philosophers, statesmen, and heroes, have obtained 12 SCENERY AND MIND. that faith and fervor by wMch they secured triumphant success in the end, even though martyrdom was their road. The best education consists in the most thorough training of natu- ral energy. In all moral architecture, as in material, the elegant should rest on the substantial, and clearly indicate the firmness it adorns. Large portions of a temple admit of being highly polished, but he would not be a very wise builder who should set about his structure with nothing but polishings. They who have "yellowed themselves among rolls and records" are not generally the persons who exert the most salutary influence, and make the most indelible impress on mankind. On the contrary, happiest and mightiest are they who are bom and reared where free course is allowed to the influences with which creative power has beuignantly surrounded us. u Happy they who are located in the true infant-school of God ami Nature; on whom this grand moving panorama sheds all its changing lights, and bestows all its successive scenes ; who watch the revolving stars, and the progression of bright constellations, in no bounded horizon; for whom there are the infinite effects, daily and nightly, of sunlight and moonlight, over hill and plain, — -better still if the vast ocean add its shifting colors and the accompaniment of its continuous ami resounding anthem; to whom a hundred birds and plants, in rapid succession, tell of advancing spring; whose months the flowers calendar; whose autumn is infallibly marked by the ripened grain and the sheaves of joyous harvest ; who make an era in the few years of their chronology by some more memorable storm or severer frost ; and who change their sports and occupations with changing nature, receiving through every inlet the influences of God's spirit, and rejoicing in all. Not that children can feel the beaut}- or the gran- deur, still le-s dive into the wisdom of this mighty scheme of things, but ///- stimulus is on them, the novelty is adapted to and excites s c E N K i: V A N D MIND. 1 .". tli-iii ; Nature has her way within fchem as well as parents and teach- ers ; and the senses do Buch duty as in the crowded city school-n they never yet performed nor ever can. And thus they goon from infancy to youth, growing in the best knowledge of humanity : a knowledge of the world in which God has placed them ; and thereby becoming lit to grapple with the difficulties and triumph in the moral conflicts thai will present themselves in maturer life, as they come into the world that man has fashioned." The superiority of nature over art, as a source of pleasure and profit, is worthy of special note. When we enter magnificent monu- ments of human skill, we are at lirst struck with the costbj decorations of wood, pigments, marble, and gold. But after repeated view-, we feel no longer charmed, ami the mental pleasure received at the lir-t glance i> continually decreased. Whereas, in contemplating the works of nature, from the minutest specimen to the most majestic, and most powerfully when the sense of perception is armed with greatesl clear- ness and force, the devotee feels that the luxury of observation i- con- stantly enhanced. The prospect of the country never satiates us; the landscape, with all its changes, is ever new, and every day invests it with some fresh aspect to delight and invigorate the mind. Love of natural objects, and especially a preference lor whatever makes scenery of the wilder or more romantic kind, is a prevailing element in all character of the most marked and practical use. There is down upon the breasl of eagles; and the strongest men have usually the gentlesl natures, because they habitually live in intimate and affectionate alli- ance with the mildest as well as mightiest influence. As an elephanl crashes through jungles and over crags, whetting his tu>ks, and as the imperial bird of prej seeks some storm-worn summit to sharpen his talon-, so every one, quick to feel ami invincible to subdue, like Achilles, will court retirement in great nature's quiet nook-, where he 14 MENEBY AND WIND. may recruit his mental strength and string his how. Archimedes, a man of stupendous genius, was accustomed to say, that, next to the solution of a problem, was the pleasure of an evening walk in the suburbs of Syracuse. Descartes, having settled the place of a planet in the morning, would amuse himself in the evening by weeding and watering a lied of flowers. Gray, one of the most intellectual and fastidious of men, says, "Happy they who can create a rose-tree, or erect a honey-suckle ; who can watch the brood of a hen, or a fleet of their own ducklings as they sail upon the water." The love of nature is, indeed, instinctive in all superior minds. Philosophers living in the time of Philostratus were accustomed to retire to the shades of Mount Athos, where " Meditation might think down hours to moments. 1 ' Catullus, Martial, and Statins were ardent admirers of rural life; especially so were Atticus, Tacitus, and Epictetus. Cicero, who valued himself more upon his taste for the cultivation of philosophy, than upon his talents for oratory, had no less than eighteen different coun- try residences in various parts of his beautiful native land. He speaks of them in terms of fondest attachment ; and they were all situated in such delightful points of view, as to deserve being called " the eyes of Italy." The retreat of Tusculum was his favorite residence. It was the most elegant mansion of that elegant age ; and the beauty of the landscape around it, adding a higher worth to the site than all tlie charms Atticus could purchase tor its master at Athens, to the highest degree refined the taste of its accomplished possessor. When, fatigued with business, and happy in being allowed the indulgence of sequestered recreation, the great master of the Forum, " from whose lips sweet eloquence distilled, as honey from the bee," could mingle in the unrestrained companionship of such friends as Scipio and Atticus and Laelius, at Caieta and Laurentum, they together strove to grow boys again in their amusements, and derived no ignoble pleasure from SCE \ i: i; V AND MINK. ] .", gathering shells upon the sea-shore. Simplicity and dignity always coalesce with the utmost gentleness and good-nature, in the persons and amusements of the truly great. They are equal to the society of the mosl refined and erudite, in all the delicate sobrietj of exalted life; and, with equal spontaneity of native greatness and acquired -face, can run, shout, ami leap, with juvenile thoughts and limbs. It is nut in the least surprising i<> find Cicero so often urging us to studj the natural beauties of the country in which we live. lie asserts it to lie the mosl auspicious pleasure of youth, and the most soothing j"\ of serene old age. Livy and Sallust were also vividly conscious of such impressions, and of the worth they confer. Pliny the younger declared himself never to have been happier than when he was indulging him- self at his country seats, where in healthful leisure he wrote his works, and celebrated the views which his villas afforded. "If life were not. too short," says Sir William Jones, "for the complete discharge of all our respective duties, public and private, and for the acquisition of uecessary knowledge in any degree of perfection, with how much pleasure and improvement might a great pari of it he spent, in admir- ing the beauties of this wonderful orb!" The graces willingly lend their /.one to embellish and fortify the passions of a uoble breast. Assi mil ating to himself the richest contributions from all sources of the beautiful, the true, ami the sublime, the severest student and most useful citizen secures to himself the delightful companionship of that potent and infallible guide described by Campbell: " Taste, like the silent dial's power, Which, iv ben supernal light is given, Can measure inspiration's hour, An.! tell its height in heaven!" We have now considered two positions, assumed at the outset: 16 SCENERY AND WIND. first, what is most abundant in nature is most ennobling in its effects ; and, secondly, that the best minds are most influenced by natural excellence. It remains to indicate, thirdly, how character, as stamped on literature, has ever been toned by the predominant characteristics of native scenery. In portraying the influence which the inanimate creation exerts upon mind and letters every where, we employ what has been univer- sally felt and acknowledged. The wise man in his lonely turret, high among the palaces of Bali) Ion, and the unsophisticated shepherd as he watched his flocks at midnight on the plains of Chaldea, recognized in the aspects and movements of the planetary world an intimate relation to the mysterious vicissitudes of human life, and the otherwise unre- vealed determinations of human destiny. In the constitution of man- kind, the religious instinct and literary taste are intimately allied, and seem, indeed, to a great extent, the same. "The untutored negro, wlu-n he prostrates himself on the reedy bank of his native stream, and adores the Deity of the stream in the shape of the crocodile, or bows before the poison tree, in reverence to the God of poisons, obeys this native impulse of humanity, no less than the disciple of Zoroaster who climbs the highest mountain tops, uusoiled by the profane foot- steps of trade or of curiosity, where the air is ever pure, and the sun greets the earth with its earliest light, to pay his vows and offer his incense to the visible symhols of Divinity, to his mind themselves divinities; or the outcast Guebre, Avho with forbidden and untold of rites, worships an ever burning flame — to him the elemental principle of nature." The character of the early patriarchs was no doubt chiefly moulded by the peculiarity of their habitation and pursuits. Their manner of life upon the great oceans of wilderness and pasture, gave breadth and elasticity to their intellects. The free mountain winds had leave t<> blow against them, their eyes drank the rivers with s c e N i: i: v a n i) m i x D. 17 delight, and the vault of heaven under which they dwelt, with all its mightj stars, elevated their feelings no less than it expanded their minds. The Hebrew prophets of a later day lived equally in the eye of nature. Says (liltillan : " We always figure them with cheeks em- browned by the nouns of the East. The sun had looked on them, but it was Lovingly — the moon had ' smitten ' them, but it was with poetry, uot madness — they had drunk in fire, the fire of Eastern day, from a hundred sources — from the lukewarm brooks of their land, from the rich colors of their vegetation, from their mornings of unclouded brightness, from their afternoons of thunder, from the large stars of their evenings and nights. The heat of their climate was strong enough to enkindle hut not to enervate their frames, inured as they were to toil, fatigue, fasting, and frequent travel. They dwelt, in a land of hills and valleys, of brooks and streams, of spots of exube- rant vegetation, of iron-ribbed rocks and mountains — a land, on one side, dipping down in the Mediterranean Sea, on another, floating up into Lebanon, and on the others, edged by deserts, teeming at once with dreadful scenerj andsecrets- — through which had passed of old time the march of the Almighty, and where his anger had left for its memorials, here, the sandj sepulchre of those thousands whose car- casses fell in the wilderness, and there, a whole head Sea of vengeance, lowering amid a desolation lit to be the very gateway to hell: — • standing between their song and subject-matter, and such a fiery clime, and such stern scenery, the Hebrew bards were enabled to indite a languaOi more deeply dyed in the colors of the sun, more intensely metaphorical, more faithfully transcriptive of nature, a simple!', and yet larger utterance, than ever before or since rushed out from the heart and tongue of man." But no where do the instincts of man, in their alliance with his ]S s (' E X E R Y A N D MIND. noblest productions, appear more strongly marked by the influence of surrounding scenery, than in the early training and national literature of "pagan Greece." That wonderful people seem fully to Lave under- stood that man was made to grow up harmoniously, with simultaneous expansion of trunk, branch, and foliage, as grows a tree ; the sap of immortal energy must circulate without hindrance in every fibre, maturing fruits perennial and divine. Two laws manifestly govern the constitution of our being, a clue regard to which is indispensable to our highest welfare. In the first place, in proportion as the physical nature of man is developed by suitable discipline, winning the greatest vigor of limb, and the greatest acuteness of sense, he will derive important aids to the intellect and moral powers from the perfections of his outward frame. Moreover, by a delightful reaction, the mind, in proportion as it is invigorated and beautified, gives strength and elegance to the body, and enlarges the sphere of action and enjoyment. These laws have been observed by the best educators of the world. At Athens, the gymnasia became temples of the Graces. In these appropriate fields of moral training, the refined Greek could -ratify his fondness for the beautiful, sur- rounded ou every hand by the combined charms of nature and art. Every festival of childhood was rendered enchanting with flowers and music; the barge, as it was pushed in boyish sport on the lake, was crowned with garlands ; the oars were moved to the sound of "sweet recorders," and the patriotic mother at home sang an inspiring lullaby, as she rocked her infant to sleep in the broad shield of its robust father. There were wrestlings for all classes in the palaestra, as well as races and heroic contests for the foremost ranks; there were gay revels on the mountain-sides, and moonlight dances in the groves. The popular games described in the twenty-fourth book of the Ihad, and the eighth of the Odyssey, all relate to important elements in - < I IB E K V A N I) MIND. 1 '.I national education. Those ancient festivals had the finesl influence upon the inhabitants of the metropolis, and upon those who dwelt the most remote. Every pilgrim through such land-, to such shrines, became Briareus-handed and Argus-eyed. The beautiful scenes, full of patriotic and refined associations, which every where arrested his attention, gave him the traveller's " thirstj eye," filled his mind with thri lli n g reminiscences, and caused him to return to his home glov ing with brilliant descriptions and burdened with exalted thoughts. It was thus that the youthful Greek mingled with his studies pedestrian exercise and acute observation, formed his hod}- to fatigue, while he stored his mind with the choicest ideas, and became equally skilled in handling a sword, subduing a horse, or building a temple. Such was the education found in the Lyceum where Aristotle lectured, and in •• 'Hi.- olive-grove of Academe, Plato's retirement, where the attic bird Trills ber thick-warbled notes the summer long: There flowery liil! Hymettus, with tin' sound Of bees' industrious murmur, oft invites To studious musingr." No Grecian city was without its public squares, airy colonnades, Bpacious halls, and shadj groves; herein the ] pie lived, transacted their business, passed their leisure, and improved their minds. The serene heaven which that land enjoys, was the best-loved roof of its population; the grateful breeze, resounding sea, and brilliant sun, were their perpetual recreation and delight. The country was looked upon •'- affording th dy happy home. Large towns were regarded as huge prisons, but these were made as rural as possible. Whatever splendors mighl -lean: from the Capitol, Tan and his rustic train were 20 SCENERY AND MIND. most fascinating to the popular intellect and heart. Familiar as the sensibilities and imagination of the people were with the outward world, and connecting the changing seasons and fruits of earth with some occult power that regulated and produced them, their enthusiasm created and sustained presiding deities, propitions in the calm, and adverse in the storm. Every gushing fountain was the dwelling of a nymph; dryads shared with man the shelter and repose of groves; on each hill an oread presided benignantly over the shepherds and their flocks ; while a goddess, more fruitful than " the silver-shafted cpieen, for ever chaste," glided before the reapers, and shook the golden har- vest from her lap on every plain. Speakers and writers the most popular, were so because they shared most, and expressed most clearly, the popular feeling. Of all literatures, the Grecian is most clearly marked with a thoroughly out-of-door character. Fresh morning ah breathes through and glows about its twin first-births of Poetry and Philosophy, like the clear sky which still hangs above the two lofty peaks of Parnassus. One of the most delightful treatises that antiquity has transmitted to us, is the GCcononiics of Xenophon, in which the pursuits and pleasures of husbandry are described in that beautiful manner which best befits the subject. And Pindar, as if expressing the universal conviction, as well as the most cherished affection of his race, has said, that " he deserves to be called the most excellent, who knows much of nature." Respecting the harmony of the physical temperature, landscapes, and literature of Greece, an intelligent traveller has recently testified as follows : " The beauty of the scenery, so far as my experience extends, was unsurpassed by any in the world. For no where are land and water mixed together in such just proportions ; islands and bays break the monotony of the one, and relieve and repeat the beau- ties of the other; and no where do soft valleys fade more insensibly SC E \ E i: v AND M i \ i). 21 into sublime mountains: ami when one of these was crowned by forests, and the other richlj cultivated ami studded with gardens and habitations, it must have surpassed all other lauds, ami almost doe- so now." It is evident that, it' the climate was not so luxurious as that of Egypt, it was far more exhilarating, ami instead of tending to ener- vate, was sufficiently severe always to invigorate, while it was at the same time so genial as to invesl the general aspect of nature with the loveliesl charm, and to awaken all the more delicate emotions of the human heart. We know from her admiring writers, that in that land of the cicada and the nightingale, each sound was melody, and all the hues of earth and heaven were harmonious, like the leaves of " Spring's sweetest book, the rose." Fine thought was spontaneous and vet per- fect, as the song of nature's own melodists, "singing of summer in full- throated ease;" and the softest combinations of articulate expression were but echoes of the notes which joyous zephyrs elicited along the dirt's of I'arnes, or wafted from the groves of Colonus. The deification of enthusiasm, embodied in the worship of Dionysos, cannot, under such circumstances, excite surprise. Among a people so full of in-pi- ration, adoration under some form was a grateful vent, ami a primary necessity. The agrarian religion of the Pelasgic herdsmen to the last occupied the Athenian acropolis, while the later and more delicate system of Ionian mythology spread its temples over the subjacent plains. This latter is known to modern times in the literature of clas- sical paganism. The pleasing ritual which the beech-woods of Thrace contributed to that system, in the worship of Apollo and the Muses, was a romantic element which found easj access to the Greek mind, and was welcome there. Oracular places testified that earth was the vehicle of revelations to man, whether it were by her own vaporous breath, whispering in the oak branches, the ftight ami voices of her creature-, or the sportive cycles into which inscribed leaves were 22 SCENERY AND MIND. strown by the wind. Hence arose the pantheism of antiquity, which worshiped earth herself as the supreme divinity ; a self-originated storehouse of all power and knowledge, in whose awful centre, over which Delphi stood, all beneficent and malignant virtues were permit- ted to contend and awe the world with the sublime mystery of their strife. The Greek mythology exhibits much more appreciation of, and minuter inquisiti< >n into natural phenomena than the literature of the Romans. To the mind of the latter nation every thing was more objective; and yet the master-spirits among them were far from being indifferent to the beauties and sublimities of the material world. The fact of Catullus having a villa so far from Rome as the peninsula of Sermione, where he could look at rugged Alps, is but one of many instances we have of Romans in love with natural beauty. The best minds there, as elsewhere, knew that the true method of viewing all created things, is to unite poetry to science, and to enlist both in the pursuit of truth, in order that both may purify the heart and aggran- dize the mind. Said Cicero, "There is nothing so delightful in litera- ture as that branch which enables us to discern the immensity of nature ; and which, teaching us magnanimity, rescues the soul from obscurity." The practice of this great man comported with his theory, and substantiated it. He tells us in his letters, that when most crushed with professional cares, he would retire for weeks together from public life, and recreate himself in his quiet Cnman villa, where he enjoyed fresh breezes from the Tuscan ocean, that rolled beneath his windows, and where, thus invigorated, he wrote his famous six books upon Government. Such thinkers ever derive their finest inspiration and firmest strength from great nature, whose every kingdom they pant to explore; their imperial career is "known to every star and every wind that blows," giving the assurance that what they say and do will SC E \ E K V A Ml M I N II. 23 survive in perpetually augmented power, "when tyrants' crests and tombs of brass are spent." In all their purposes ami pursuits, they aspire only to a place "Amid ili' august and never-dying light Of constellated spirits, who have gained A name in heaven, by power >>\' heavenly deeds." No writer, among the Romans, has shown a greater relish for natural beauty, than Horace. He might well rank himself among: the •■ lovers of the country ;" not only as his works abound in its praises, but because he could prefer his Sabine retreat to a distinguished posi- tion at the court of Augustus. The odes of this accurate observer of men and things abound with exquisite pictures of rural pursuits, con- nected with the diversified incidents and manners of life. If he cele- brates the powers of wine, the pleasure of sitting under the umbrageous foliage and luscious clusters is not forgotten. If the charms of his mistress lie the theme of his soul;', the rose is nut more beautiful, nor has the Mulct a perfume more sweet. When war is pint raxed, he for- gets not to contrasl its pains and its bloody horrors with the tranquil and innocent pleasures of a smiling landscape, enlivened with the hum of rural sport and prolific cultivation. The woods and fields he loved were enjoyed as often as pos>il>le; and when confined to his couch at Home, he still delights in the remembrance of vernal and vintage inci- dent-, when vigorous husbandmen urge their team, and bappy peasants shoul the harvest-home. " Ah !" exclaims he, " how delighted lam, when wandering among steep rocks and the sombre wilderness; since the shades of forests and the murmuring of waters inspire my fancy, and will render me renowned. Sing, oh! ye virgins, the beauties of Thessalian Tempe, and the wandering isle of Delos : celebrate, oh ! 24 S C E X E R Y AND MIND. ye youths, the charms of that goddess, who delights in flowing rivers mid the shades of trees; who lives on the mountain of Algidus, among the impenetrable woods of Erymanthus, and on the green and fertile Cragus." Virgil alludes less frequently to the climate and scenery of Italy, 1 rat he was thoroughly imbued with the mild splendor which adorns that beautiful clime. Though he seems always wishing for the cool valleys of rheums, and is most acutely appreciative of the more clas- sical regions of Greece, he was by no means indifferent to the diversi- fied charms of his native land. This we know from his history, can perceive it in his writings, and have felt it most when standing amid the glories that mantle his chosen grave. The Romans, not less than the Greeks, in feeling their way through mythologic gloom, were conscious of a preternatural awe which gleamed upon them from cavernous waters and darkened from shaggy hills. " Where is a lofty and deeply-shaded grove," writes Seneca, " filled with venerable trees, whose interlacing boughs shut out the face of heaven, the grandeur of the wood, the silence of the place, the shade so dense and uniform, infuse into the breast the notion of a divinity.' 1 Hence the cpiickened imagination of the ancients, striving to supply a void which nature had created but could not fill, peopled each grove, fountain, or grotto, with a captivating train of sylvan deities. Intercourse with these, in the scenes which they sanctified, was deemed more auspicious to health and morals, than the arid and vitiating influence of crowded towns. Plutarch, for instance, after asserting that the troubled life of cities is injurious to the study of philosophy, and that solitude is the school of wisdom, proceeds to show, that the pure air of the country, and the absence of all disturb- ance from within, conduce most to the instruction and purification of the soul. "On this account, also," he adds, "the temples of the S E x E i: v a \ D m i \ i>. 25 .-'■"Is, as many as were constructed in ancient times vvere always in solitary places, especially the temples of the Muses ami of Pan, and of the .\\ mphs of Apollo, and of as many as were guides of harmony : judging, I suppose, that cities were necessarilj fearful ami polluted places for the education of youth." In contemplating the relative influence of scenerj on mind, we shall probably conclude that mountains exert the greatest ami most salutary power. The intellect of a people, in its primitive unfoldings amid elemental grandeurs, lies as it were in Nature's arms, feeds at her breast, looks up into her face, smiles at her smiles, shudders at her frowns, is adorned with her ^acefulness, and fortified with her strength. Beauty ami sublimity are thus interfused and commingled with the whole substance of the mind, as the --low of perfect health mixes itself with the whole substance of the body, unthought of, it may lie, until the world is reminded of its potent fascination in deeds the mightiest and most beneficent. The mind and works of individuals tend strongly to assimilate with the nature of their parent soil. Dr. Clarke thought that the lofty genius of Alexander was nourished l>\ the majestic presence of mount Olympus, under the shadow of which he may be said to have been born and bred. Grand natural scenery tend- permanently to affect the character of those cradled in its bosom, is the nurserj of patriotism the mosl firm and eloquence the mos1 thrilling. Elastic as the air they breathe, five and joyous as the torrents that dash through their rural possessions, strong as the granite highlands from which they wring a hardy livelihood, the enterprising children of the hills, noble and high-minded bj original endowment, are like the glorious regions of rugged adventure they love to occupy. This is an universal rule. The Foulahs dwelling on the high Alps of Africa, are as superior to the tribes living beneath, as the inhabitants of Cashmere are above the Hindoos, or as the Tyrolese are nobler 4 26 SCENERY AND MIND. than the Arab race. The physical aspect and moral traits of nations are in a great measure influenced by their local position, circumstances of climate, popular traditions, and the scenery in the midst of which they arise. The transition from the monotonous plains of Lombardy to the bold precipices of Switzerland is, in outward nature, exactly like that, in inward character, from the crouching and squalid appear- ance of the brutalized peasant, to the independent air and indomitable energy of the free-born and intelligent mountaineer. The athletic form and fearless eye of the latter bespeaks the freedom he has won to enjoy and perpetuate, the invigorating elements he buffets in hardy toil, and the daring aspirations he is fearless and fervid to indulge. Liberty has ever preferred to dwell in high places, and thence comes she down through fields and towns, revealing the glory of her counte- nance, and diffusing her inspiration through undaunted breasts. " Of old sat Freedom on the heights, The thunders breaking at her feet : Above her shook the starry lights : She heard the torrents meet. Within her palace she did rejoice. Self-gathered in her prophet-mind ; But fragments of her mighty voice Came rolling on tin- wind." There is in the. elements of our humanity a perpetual sympathy with the accompaniments of its hrst development. Nearly all the heroism, moral excellence, and ennobling literature of the world, litis been produced by those who, in infancy and youth, were fostered by the influence of exalted regions, where rocks and Avilderness are piled in l>old and inimitable shapes of savage, grandeur, tinged with the hues S< E N E i: V AND MIND. 27 of untold centuries, and over which awe-inspiring storms often sweep with thunders in their train. This is the influence which more than half created the Shakspeares, Miltons, Wordsworths, Scotts, Coleridges, [rvings, Coopers, Bryants, and Websters of the world; and without much pei"sona] acquaintance with such scenes, it is impossible for a reader to comprehend their highest individualitj of character so as fully to relish the best qualities of their works. Nearest allied to mountains in their natural effects, is the influence of oceans on national mind. The infinite is ino-t palpably impressed upon the boundless deep; and wherever thought is accustomed with unimpeded wing to soar from plains, or traverse opening \ istas through towering hills, that it may Lover over the azure waste of waters becalmed, or outs] d their foam-crested billows in wildest storms, there will literature present the brightest lineaments and possess the richest "Worth. The Greek was a hardy mountaineer, with the mosl delicate faculties of body and soul, but lie was not imprisoned by his mountains. Whenever lie sealed a height, old Ocean, gleaming with eternal youth, wooed him to her embrace, in older to hear him to some happy island of her far-otf domain. < >n every hand constantly appeared tin- two greatest stimulants on earth to emotion and thought. The voice of the .Mountains, and the voice of the Sea, "each a mighty voice,' were r\rr rousing and guiding him; each counteracting the ultra influence of its opposite. The sea expanded the range and scope of his thoughts, which the mountain-valleys might have hurtfulK restrained. For want of this salutary blending of excitement and control, it is, perhaps, mainly owing that neither Tyre nor Carthage, Dotwithstanding their power and wealth, occupies any notable place in the intellectual history of mankind. But to the Greeks, the waste of water- was an inexhaustible mine of mental wealth. They were an amphibious race, lords of land and sea. On shore and afloat the\ 28 SCENERY AND MIND. were eager listeners to the two great heralds, " Liberty's chosen music," calling them to freedom ; and nol >ly did they answer to the call, when the sound of the mighty Pan was ringing on their soul, at Marathon and Therniopyla?, at Salamis and Platea. Thirlwall, and Frederic Schlegel, have both called attention to the fact, that the literature of the West is differenced from the litera- ture of the East, by the same character which distinguishes Europe from its neighboring continents, — the great range of its coasts, com- pared with the extent of its surface. And Goethe suggests that " per- haps it is the sight of the sea from youth upward, that gives English and Spanish poets such an advantage over those of inland countries." Herein the great German undoubtedly spoke from his own feelings ; for he never saw the sea till he went to Italy in his thirty-eighth year ; and " many-sided " as he was, he doubtless would have been a much greater and more comprehensive master had he dwelt nearer the ocean strand. Francis Horn, in his survey of German literature, alludes to this point. " Whatever is indefinite, or seems so, is out of keeping with Goethe's whole frame of mind : every thing with him is terra jwma or an island : there is nothing of the infinitude of the sea. This conviction forced itself upon me, when for the first time, at the north- ernmost extremity of Germany, I felt the sweet thrilling produced by the highest sublimity of Nature. Here Shakspeare alone comes for- ward, whom one finds every where, on mountains and in valleys, in forests, by the. side of rivers and of brooks. Thus far Goethe may accompany him : but in sight of the sea, Shakspeare is by himself." Solger, also dwelling far in the interior, lamented the necessary remoteness of a power, habitual converse with which, a chance view had assured him, would produce the noblest effects. He is speaking of his first sight of the sea : — " Here, for the first time, I felt the impression of the illimitable, as produced by an object of sense, in its full majesty." SCE N E i: V A X I) M I N l>. 29 Allien accustomed himself to lonely walks on the wild sea-shore near Marseilles, and those local influences -axe a perpetual tone and energy 1" his mind. Every evening, after plunging in Neptune's domain, he would retreal t<> a recess where the land jutted out, and there \\'>uld he sit, Leaning asrainsl a high rock which concealed from his sighl the land behind him, while before and around he beheld nothing but the sea and the heavens. •• Blue roll'd tie waters, blue the sky Spread like an ocean hung on high." The sun, sinking into the waves, was lighting up and embellishing these two immensities; and there he passed many an hour in auspicious rumination and mental joy. Happy are they who love the scenl of wild flowers in solitary woods, and with equal gladness listen to the melody. of waters a- they die along the smooth beach., or crash in thunders againsl the craggy coast. Thrice happy are the ardent wor- shipers at some mountain-shrine, whence they may contemplate a scene like this under "the opening eye-lids of the morn," or when the hold outlines of great Nature's temple are thrown into line relief against a sky crimsoned with sunset lines. The rising of day at sea, and descending day on the hills, are the most sublime and suggestive scenes man can view. The sun marries earth and ocean in harmony full of heavenly awe. This w felt at evening, when there is no filmy haze to break the softness of the west, where golden rays spread gently through the highest ether, and all is blended over the vasl and glowing concave; or when in lurid splendor he glides from peak to peak, hi- rays flashed and reflected from cloud to cloud, a- he sinks from hill to hill, presaging coming storms. Not less fascinating is the magic of light on blue unruffled waters sleeping undisturbed at early 30 SCENERY AND MIND. dawn, or gently curling their rippling surface to catch the dancing sunbeams and reflect their mimic glories. To one standing on earth, the god of day appears with weary pace to seek repose ; but at sea, he rises all fresh and glowing from his briny couch, not in softened beauty, but full of dazzling splendor, bursting at once across the threshold of the deep, with the firm and conscious step of immortal youth. Then, earth, air, and sky, are all in unison, and their calm snUiine repose is rapture to the grandest souls. With Beattie's Min- strel, they are ready to exclaim, " Ob, how canst tliou renounce the boundless store Of charms which Nature to her votary yields ! The warbling woodland, the resounding shore, The pomp of groves, and garniture of fields ; All that the genial ray of morning gilds, And all that echoes to the song of even, All that the mountain's sheltering bosom shields, And all the dread magnificence of heaven. Oh, how canst thou renounce, and hope to be forgiven ! " Lakes, abo, have a marked influence on mind. Switzerland has ever been a favorite resort for those who are rich in native endowment, and whose l>est wealth is elicited by contact with natural greatness. The most tumultuous spirits have greatest need of repose, and with keenest relish enjoy the placid and quiet feelings which belong pecu- liarly to a lake — " as a body of still water under the influence of no current; reflecting therefore the clouds, the light, and all the imagery of the sky and surrounding hills ; expressing also and making visible the changes of the atmosphere, and motions of the lightest breeze, and subject to agitation only from the winds — S C K \ E K V A \ n MIND. ;; 1 " The \ isible s< m W ould enter unawares int.. hi- mind "With all lis solemn imagery, its rocks, Its woods, and that uncertain heaven received Into ill.- bosom of Hi.- sir, i, I ii lake ' " One cannot easily walk unmoved where water, fresh from moun- tain-springs, "doth makesweel music with th' enameU'd stones," an.! verdant islands Boat far out on a surface resembling molten silver, thus affording the mosl enchanting objects to the excursive view Around this central mirror, prone to the dazzling sun, [el shrubbery and trees wave to ,1,,. touch of zephyrs, terraces display their tan-led beauties, fields and gardens, studded with elegant villas, swell towards bleak hills, surmounted by peerless and brilliant Alps, all magnificently repeated in the limpid wave below, and you have the bright summer scene which glows from th. I,.,.,,,, of Leman in the foreground of -Mont Blanc, and renders supremely beautiful the sacred solitude so delightful at Lucerne. Watt botanized on the fragrant hanks ,,f Loch Lomond, and fortified his severer studies by the rugged majesty of ,1,,. Grampians. Haller, Zimmermann, ami Lavater, sunk manj a sorrow in the lake around Zurich, and Gibbon wrought out his mighty task under the Lofty inspiration enjoyed at Lausanne. The product and proof of this potency are signalized in the memorable passage, where be describes the close of his vast undertaking: -1 have presumed to mark the momenl of conception, (amid the rains of Eome) ; I shall now commemorate the hour of „n final deliverance. It was on the day, or rather night, of the 2?th June, L787, between the hours of eleven .and twelve, that I wrote the last lines of the last page, in a summer-house in my garden. After laying down m\ pen, I took several turns i„ a covered walk of acacias, which commands a prospeel .".'_> SCENERY AND i\l I N D . of tlie country, the lake, and the mountains. The air was temperate, the sky was serene, the silver orb of the moon was reflected upon the w .iters, and all Nature was silent. I will not dissemble the first emo- tions of joy on the recovery of my freedom, and perhaps the establish- ment of my fame." Fountains, brooks, and rivers, impart some of the fairest aspects to the landscape, and stamp many valuable impressions on the mind. If the sea most abounds in that salt which seasons substantial and endur- ing thought, those streams, however small, which connect the remotest island therewith, are not entirely devoid of like power. It would seem that a sagacious love of nature was the true Egeria who taught wisdom to Numa in the grotto. When he worshiped the nymph at the fountain, and Narcissus fell in love with his own reflection in the water, they appear to have made that element necessary in the loves of all minds tenderly or profoundly moved. Petrarch sung of it at the source of the Sorgue, Vaucluse, and by the rushing Rhone at Avignon. Rousseau celebrated its inspiring influence in the rural haunts he most loved ; and Byron prolonged the strain over almost every renowned sea, lake, river, and fountain of the world. " Where a spring rises or a river flows, 1 ' said Seneca, " there should we build altars and offer sacrifices," — an impulse which has been felt by the best hearts of every age. A thousand charms gather around one of those little currents of " loosened silver" that sing along the mossy channel, or leap down craggy heights, over which trees throw their protecting arms and imbibe grateful spray. How invigorating, with angle and book, or all alone with one's own thoughts, to trace the wild but glad- some offspring of the hills, now contracted by gloomy firs and half lost in dark ravines, — now sparkling from the deepest shadow, broken into dimples and bounding to the sun, — auon sweeping wild flowers to its bosom, and with augmented wave washing the gnarled and spread- SCE \ i: i: v a n D Mia i>. bag roots which jul <»ut here and there from impending banks, -with fringes of dripping weeds, and finally losing its tributary beautj in a mightier stream. " Laugh of the Mountain," is the title given to a brook by a Spanish poel ; and Bryanl is not less happy in character- izing this fair feature of the world. '• The rivulet Sends forth glad sounds, and tripping o'er its bed Of pehblj sands, or leaping down the rod . Seems, with continuous laughter, to rejoice In its own being." The chief rivers of every clime have ever furnished the favorite themes of leading minds. Darius was so charmed with the river Teams, that lie commemorated his attachment by erecting a votive column on its brink. Where rolled Ilyssus, was the besl school of Athens; and on the shores of Arno and Cam, Milton acquired his best training and enjoyed the happiesl life ; as did Thompson, thrilled with the murmurs of the Jed. The philosophers of Shiraz composed their nio-l celebrated works near the shores of the Rochnabad ; while by the sacred Ganges, near Benares, erudite teachers instruct their pupils, after the manner of Plato, walking in their gardens. Aufidus, the Tiber, and the l'o, had their respective admirers in Horace, Virgil, and Ovid, and the reader need not he told that all tongues unite to celebrate the Rhine. Calimachus lias immortalized the beautiful waters of the [nachus, while the Mincio and the Tagus boasl their Boccacio and Camoens; and the lovers of English letters know full well that tli.' Severn, Trent, Avon, Derwent, Dee, and Thames, have been distinguished by the praises of the mightiesl pens. Modern literature, the production of northern regions, is imbued with a wild and romantic element strongly distinguished from the :. 34 SCENERY AND MIND. severe simplicity of the classic south. This contrast has its counter- part, and much of its producing cause, iu the characteristic scenery of its origin. In old Greece, the lovely climate, hud just vicissitudes enough to impress a happy variety on- the experience and coinage of mind; while their free institutions, and the deep wisdom of their phi- losophers, conduced towards the production of those imperishable monuments of grandeur and beauty before which the genius of humanity still reverently bends. But England, and the kindred regions of Germany, have in their less favored climates a depth of gloom which is known to characterize the northern spirit, in which external nature is admirably harmonious with the intellectual struc- ture, by its influence thereupon eliciting the noblest efforts. The literature of a country is truly national, just so far as it bears upon it the stamp of national character. Among the external causes which tend to create this exalted type of individuality, natural scenery and climate are undoubtedly the most obvious. The features of their native landscape give form and color to the thoughts and words of all creative minds. For instance, through the living speech, and over the speaking page of the Anglo-Saxon, and Anglo-American race, one can easily recognize the daily vicissitudes and fluctuating seasons, — those tints and hues of vernal beauty, summer promise, autumnal wealth, and wintry desolation, — those dimly shrouding mists which alternate with brilliant light, — and which render objects more lovely and harmonious to those who realize the invisible and perceive the spiritual, who unite all worlds in the comprehensive grasp of their imagination, and thus substantiate in effective use that which to others is only shadowy and remote. As is the scenery, so are national letters and works of art. We children of mists, clouds, woods, darkening tempests, and weeping rain, produce and prefer the beauty of mystery and indeflniteness, in SCE \ K B Y A N D M I N 1>. 35 other words, romantic beauty. If we would cultivate a keen pleasure in definite beauty, as it is seen in Homeric literature, and as it s1 1 mightily exemplified in the severely gorgeous splendor of the Acropo- lis, we must transport cur mind at Least, it' not our person, toother clinics. There we may best emulate the consummate excellence which result- from the coalescence of alacrity with depth, and which was most happily impressed upon the language Plato spoke, and in the symmetry which still survives in the fragmentary Propylsea and Olympeion. But if we would behold at once combined the definite beauty, shapely vastness, instantaneously recognized unity, and cheer- ful grandeur, most characteristic of the scenery, literature, and art of an immortal land, let us for a moment glance at the magnificent pano- rama, as seen from the lofty terrace through the golden-hued colon- nades of the Parthenon. Linger here a while till the eye becomes accustomed to the scene, and imagination is able to refit the mutilated forms, and you will easily understand the spirit of the old religion, and its consecrated works. "There is no mixture of light ami shade, no half-concealing, half-revealing, as in the symbolical cathedral- of the Christian faith. There are no rays of divine darkness running alongside of the ravs of light, and sinking into the ground beneath the altar of the East. All i- open to the unbounded blue ether above and the vertical rays of a noonday sun, and the trembling visitations of the unimpeded moonbeams, a very house of light, unstained by painted glass, undarkened by vaulted roofs, unintercepted by columns and arcades, and with the instantaneous perception of unity unmarred by the cruciform shape." Who can ever forget the electrical effect produced when firsl beholding the blue sky between the columns of a classic ruin I The shape, the tallness, which makes the space seem narrow, tie' straight hard line which renders the perfed contour so definite, all startle the eye with its firm and stable symmetry, even 36 SCESERY AND MIND. after one has been long accustomed to the reverently swerving lines of a cathedral, and to the hold and trustful curve of the Gothic arch, throwing itself from pillar to pillar, with its segmental circle, like the unfolding of Christian truth here below, whose perfect whole is in heaven. The mental creations of central Europe, and the still more roman- tic regions of the north, are equally characterized by an indefiniteness exactly comporting with the aspects and temperature of the material kingdoms around. The human soul, thirsting after immensity, immu- tability, and unbounded duration, needs some tangible object from which to take its night, — some point whence to soar from the present into the future, from the limited to the infinite, — and is likely to be most vigorous in its capacity and productions where such facilities most abound. Mere space, contemplated under the dome of heaven, prostrates, rather than sustains, the mind; but Alpine heights, seen at a glance where earth and sky mingle, constitute the quickening and fortifying regions where mundane understanding and celestial imagi- nation most happily blend in the suggestion of thoughts such as com- mon language never expressed. Deep caverns, contracted lakes, pro- jecting crags, impending avalanches, and glittering pinnacles, which rise in serene majesty till they are lost in mist and cloud, rolling over their summits like the waves of ocean, realize prospects which seem to conduct the contemplator from this to another world. The magnifi- cence thus poured on the mind naturally imbues its faculties, and will be reproduced in living speech, or for ever glow from a graphic pen. The solitude seems holy where every grand feature constitutes a hymn, and a sublime melancholy impresses itself upon the thoughtful soul. Northern legends and apparitions partake much more of the spiritual and infinite than did the sylvan deities and semi-human >< E \ E i: v \ \ d u i \ i>. 37 mythology of the classic South; and modem romance, with its pre- vailing gloom and indefinite character, is much more appalling than the sunny and social personifications which antiquity produced. The natural phenomena which abound in a wild, uncultivated country, powerfully conspire to create the illusions of fancy which so much modify reason's severesl works. The preternatural appearances com- monly said tn occui' in the German mountains and Scottish highlands, whose loft] summits and unreclaimed valley- arc shrouded with tem- pestuous clouds, may be explained on the same philosophical principle, whence the most potent local inspiration is derived. That which is strongly felt, is no1 onhj easilj -ecu, but as easily believed; and an appetite for the marvellous, constantly excited, is made keen to cl and multiply visions and prognostics, until each heath or glen has its unearthly visitants, each familj if- omen, each but its boding spectre, and superstition, systematized into a science, is expounded by wizards and gifted seers. The character of a primitive mythology, mingling more or less with the best literature of a nation, is always intimateh connected with that of the scenerj and climate in which it arose. Thus the graceful Nymphs and Naiads of Greece ; the Peris of Persia, gay as the colors of the rainbow, and odorous as flowers; the Fairies of England, who in airy circles "dance their ringlets to the whistling: wind," have forms and functions delicate and beautiful, like the coun- tries in which they dwell; while "the Elves, Bogles, Brownies, and Kelpies, which seem to have legitimately descended, in ancient High- land verse, from the Scandina\ ian Dvergar, Nisser, &c, are of a stunted and malignant aspect, and are celebrated for nothing better than maiming cattle, bewildering the benighted traveller, and conjuring ou1 the souls of newborn infants." Ji is an occasion lor special gratitude to God thai there are yel wild spots and wildernesses left, unstained fountains and virgin hills. 38 SCENERY AND MIND. where avarice has little dominion, and whence thought may take the widest range. These exercise analogous power over the popular mind, furnish the purest stimulus to noble exertion, and have ever developed the strongest patriotism, iutensest energy, and most valuable letters of the world. So far as we can derive capacities from inanimate things, and be impelled by the activities which depend on place, mountains, moors, forests and rocky shores, are the localities most favorable for vigorous and prolific life. The language we speak, and the glorious Literature it has preserved, are the accumulated products and historical proof of this. When the Saxons were called in as friends and allies by the Romanized Britons, they assembled in great numbers with their king Hengist, during the fifth and sixth centuries of the Christian era, and England continued to be peopled by them. But instead of friends they soon became masters, and the ancient inhabitants, the Britons, disappeared; after which, the Saxon tongue, laws, government, and manners soon overspread the land; so that it may literally be said, " the British constitution came out of the woods of Germany." The real and ideal are most closely allied in the grandest creations of nature and the finest conceptions of mind. Although hoary dill's and soaring heights are among the most palpable facts of earth, it is on them that we always seem to be most in the domain of fancy. It is impossible to overstate our indebtedness to those gigantic disturban- ces of the solid globe, by which mountains, with all their accompani- ments of wild and rugged features, were upheaved, and substituted, in bold and picturesque beauty, for dead level plains. Without this contrast of expressive objects, earth would have told out little of those sublime truths, of which now every hill is a prophet, every stone a book. The ancients frequently erected temples and statues to the genius of the place; and these were often in retired localities, like Iero, the sacred city of ^Esculapius, occupying a mountain-hollow, the SCENE El IND MI N 1). 39 most secluded in Greece. According to Pliny, Ms countrymen, too, fell thai Minerva, as well as Diana, inhabits the forests. Among the woods of Etruria, the ereal lawgiver and ruler to whom Koine was midcr greater obligations than to Romulus, soughl refuge from the cares thai attended the government of a turbulent but growing nation, and was the Qrsl pagan sovereign ever inspired to ered a fane to Peace and Faith. Akenside finely allude- to the sacred awe, with which the wilderness and hidden dells, stretching along the acclivities of a high mountain, are contemplated by persons of refined imagination : " Marl: the sable w Is, Thai shade sublime von mountain's nodding brow. With what religious awe the solemn scene Commands your steps! as it' the reverend form < >i" Minos, or of Numa, should forsake TV Elysian seats; and down the embowering glade Move to your pausing ej e." When we meditate in plains, the globe appears youthful and imbecile; among crags and mountains, it exhibits energy and the gravity of age. All primitive aspects indicate a deep solemnity, and generate invincible power. We feel the spirit of the universe upon us, and are not surprised that when the shepherd in Virgil sought Love, he found him a native of the rocks. Traces of the divinity mosl abound in localities apart from throngs of mankind, where one can besl establish the equilibrium of the soul by that of solitude, feel- ing a life on the surface of things and eternity in their depths. Nature Bheds much of a supernatural influence around the superior soul>, con- stituted in harmony with herself. Physical elements become photic in the hands of such, and receive an impression not less brilliant than 40 SCENERY AND MIND. enduring. Their mind is made to act as a prism, under whose influence the simplest elements assume the most exquisite combination of hues ; and thus inanimate kingdoms and artificial lessons are converted into golden visions of thought and feeling. Form, color, light and shade are attendant handmaids, ever ready to impart a graceful and peren- nial utterance to the sublimest conceptions, and adorn rugged strength with charms more real and captivating than that of words. This is as often verified in art as in literature. Hogarth began life 'a silver-engraver, Chantry a wood-carver, and Raeburn a goldsmith ; but ruled by the love fed in early intercourse with nature, their course was changed, and each was matured in his peculiar department of excellence. Romney, when but a child, studied coloring before the rainbow, the purple perspective and gleaming lake; he took his first lessons in composition through wild woods, fruitful valleys, and over the loftiest mountains within reach. Mortimer with strongest impulse studied the sea, chafed and foaming, fit " to swallow navigation up," with ships driven before tempests, or strown in ruin. These, passion- ately seen and felt, gave him a skilful artistic hand. Richard Cosway was first kindled with a love for painting by a chance glance at two picturesque works from Rubens, at Tiverton; and a beautiful piece of wood is still shown in Suffolk, where the ancient trees, winding glades, and sunny nooks, inspired Gainsborough with the love of art. Thence he emerged the first landscape painter of his age. A few prints, illus- trative of Michael Angelo's genius, found in his father's library, and conned beneath gnarled oaks, made the enthusiastic Fusili a master in his way ; and a perusal of " The Jesuit's Perspective," when only eight years old, led an observant youth into the open fields, and prepared the way for Sir- Joshua Reynolds to become the highest model and most elegant teacher of British art. It is well known that Salvator Rosa once resided with a band of robbers, and that the impressions SCENE R"X A \ |i MIND. I I received from the rocks, caves, .lens, and mountains they inhabited, gave a decided tone and direction to his taste. His original benl was thus so stronglj developed, thai he loved rather to stand on the ruins of nature, than to admire her sof! and beautiful combinations; Inner his imagination became daring and impetuous, his pencil rugged and sublime, from prolific sources armed to throw a savage grandeur over all his works. Claude Lorrain, on the contrary, spent his happiesl days in sunny scene-, w here the earth was enamelled with flowers, and heaven's mild radiance beamed perpetually on his brow. He early learned to mix a pallet of colors from every realm of beauty, and all his pictures teem with loveliness and peace. In a fine picture, as in a favorite book, it is easy to identify what we behold -with the life of the author; and probably we shall trace his first impressions in the peculiarity of his style, as well as in the genera] tenor of his thoughts. Milton found his mosl genial inspira- tion amidst the embowered lawns of Vallombrosa ; Gray was perma- nently benefited b\ the solitude of the Chartreuse; and Johnson never rose higher in refined sentiment, than on the sea-beaten rock of Iona. To the ,-reat bard of Paradise Lost, nature ever imparted a clear and steady light, shining brightly through the storms of tumul- tuous life, ami kindling up, when all else was dark, a lustre worth} of Eden in it- iir-t bl< 1. Shakspeare possessed the most intense fond- ness for natural beauty, and displayed it in all his works. " [mages of rural scenes are for ever floating on his mind, and there is scarce an object, from the lofty mountain to the sequestered valley, from the • lark tempesl to the -ray dawn and placid n dight, from dreary wdnter to warm and fragranl spring, that lie has not depicted ; gentle ••"is. and murmuring rills, and sequestered groves, are feature- as prominent in his dramas, as the beings that haunt them; the VOWS of love become indeed silver -oft as they are whispered by nighl 42 SCENERY AND MIND. among pomegranate groves ; life is more sweet among trees, and stones, and running brooks, afar from public haunts; the gentle boy sleeps more fitly among embowering woods, watched by fairy forms, and sung to rest by the dirge of affection." Like Milton, Shakspeare seems to have dwelt with sincerest pleasure on the peaceful images of rural life, and no one familiar with his history and thoughts can be surprised that, as soon as he was enabled to escape frorn the artificial- ness of metropolitan life, he hastened to spend the evening of his existence among the quiet hills and vales where in careless youth he had wandered, gathering innumerable germs of the richest and most magnificent thoughts. Sir Walter Scott's great art lay in exact de- scriptions of nature and of character, a facility attained by the con- stant pursuit of some piece of striking scenery, or in watching the spontaneous exhibition of unsophisticated character. Fancy was re- sorted to only for filling up the interstices, or supplying vacancies in the originals which nature furnished. In youth, he read Hool's Tasso and Percy's Reliques of ancient poetry, beneath a huge platamis tree, within the ruins of an old arbor near Kelso, the most beautiful and romantic village in Scotland. In full view lay the Tweed and the Teviot, both famous rivers, the ancient castles of Roxburgh and a ruined abbey, with the modern mansion of Fleurs, a landscape so situated as to combine the ideas of ancient baronial splendor with those of modern taste. These were vividly associated with the grand features of the scene around the young observer; and the historical incidents, or traditional legends connected with them, gave to his im- passioned soul an intense reverence for ancient ruins and chivalrous enterprise. Thenceforth his faculties were all awake, and fitted for their work; giving to every field its battle, and to every rivulet its song. A true man's productions everywhere are the types of his mind, and reveal the scenes and circumstances of his early training. SOENEKI \ N n MIND. I:'. Edmund Burke grew up encompassed bj the gorgeous scenery around flu- castle of Kjlcolnian: and bis great living: successor in Parliament, Sheil,* gathered the besl energies of his eloquence near the fine w Is of Faithley, and the aoble seal of the Bolton family, when the sullen roar of the ocean used to come over the hills to greel hi> youth, under the shadow of Dunbrodj Abbey in ruins, where the Nbre and the Barrow met in a deep and splendid conflux with his uative Suir. The minds of these great men were the transcripts of the first scenes thej loved; and it is most pertinent to this theme to remind the reader that one, perhaps greater than they, the master statesman and orator of his age, was cradled in the rugged bosom of Alpine New Hamp- shire, where all is cool, colossal, sublime. On a flowery morning of spring, or in the stillness of a clear au- tumnal night, — in summer fruitfulness or wintry desolation, — we feel, if we do not hear, the rusldng of that stream of life, which from Orion flows down to the very heart of earth. Hence the declaration of Burns, — " There is scarcely any earthly object gives me more — I do not know how I should call it pleasure — but something which exalts me something "which enraptures m< — than to walk in the sheltered side of the wood, or high plantation, in a cloudy winter-day, and bear the storm}' wind howling among the trees, and roaring over the plain. It is my best season for devotion." Campbell, too, courted the heath-clad wilderness — "bleat — lifeless — and broken into numberless glens — strewn with rocks — and scantily clothed with copse-wood ; from the duskj coveii of which he could observe the wild deer darting forth at interval- and again vanishing in a deeper and more distanl shade. Bold rocks, fringed with wild flowers, rising in huge and often grotesque masses through the purple heath: streams and torrents * While thi Qg through the press, news is received of the death of this eminent man. II S C E X E K Y A N L> MIND. w inding peacefully through tlie deep grassy glens, or dashing, in clouds of spray, over sonic rugged precipice ; the shrill pipe of the curlew — the blithe carol of the lark over head — the bleating of the goats from the steep pastoral acclivities — the scream of the eagle from his eyrie in the rocks:" — these were the sights and sounds which enlivened his rambles and supplied his worth. The youth of Byron was spent mainly on the sea-shore, the heaths, and the hills, of the Doric north ; and when more secluded in Newstead Abbey, the recollections of childhood moulded his first sonff. o " When I roved, a young highlander, o'er the dark heath, Am] climb'd thy steep summit, Morven! of snow; To gaze on the torrent that thunder'd beneath, Or the mist of the tempest thai gather'd below." Gladsome wanderings in the sunshine among the hills, enlivened by melodious waters and the song of birds, the changeful aspects of fields and woods, gleamings of the far-off sea, and mountains piercing through clouds a pathway to the skies, — this is the paradise of all minds nobly endowed, and not yet entirely debased. It is when thus environed and exercised that lofty impulses are kindled in genial blood. Thus was felt and expressed the grandeur, beauty, pathos, dazzling light and freezing gloom which mingled in the memories of Childe Harold. He had profoundly experienced the truth that, " To sit on rocks, to muse o'er flood and fell, To slowly trace the forest's shady scene, Where things that own not man's dominion dwell, And mortal foot hath ne'er or rarely been; To climb the trackless mountain all unseen, With the wild flock that never Deeds a fold; Alone o'er steeds and foaming falls to lean ; This is not solitude; 'tis hut to hold Converse with Nature's charms, and view uei stores unroll'd." SCE N i: R"5 \ \ i> MIND. I .", We have purposely avoided copious reference to American scenery, artists and authors, as corroborative of the positions assumed in the foregoing disquisition. We know something of the pictorial illustrations so admirably executed for this work, and would gladh allude to the diversified aspects characteristic of art, literature, and scenery in our land. But that department has been assigned to other and abler pens. Our specific task will conclude with a remark or two on the relation which nature sustain- to religion, as an auxiliary in the highesl culture of mind. What scene is more simple, or more sublime, than the vast solitude of untainted nature, cast in a fresh yet giant mould, a silent and mightj temple of the great God, wherein the pure spirit of love reigns and smile-- over all \ Pilgrimages were made to the oaks of Mamre, near Elebron, from the time of Abraham to that of Constantine ; and the nations surrounding the divinely favored tribes conspired to attach the idea of veneration to rivers and fountains, and were accustomed not, onl\ to dedicate trees and groves to their deities, hut ever to sacrifice on high mountains: customs which wrvc practised l>y the .lews them- selves, previous to the building of Solomon's temple. 'Hie beginning of wisdom was among the wilds of Asia, audit was there that the God of nature implanted grand ideas in the minds of shepherds meditating on those antique plains and heights, teaching them to wonder and adore. As the loftiest mountains are surmounted with unsullied snow, so th.' puresl sentiments crowned their exalted souls, and for ever ren- dered them the chief source of fertilizing streams to all lands, through every region of thought. \ A httlc child standing under the heaven bright with stars, once asked its mother,— " Dear mother, are those yonder tl pen places, which the glorj of God shines through \ " Those were the,, Id heavens which infancj admired, and tlie\ yet proclaim the glorj of their 46 - C E N EE V A N 1> M 1 N I). Maker to the most matured. The bills, the vales, and the ocean, have never grown old, but still have wonders as innumerable as they are lasting. Not a realm of nature is unfolded to our gaze that does not teem -with beauties and sublimities bearing an antiquity more ancient than the pyramids. The evening breeze is yet redolent of the balm shed over Canaan, when Isaac went tbrtb to meditate. Zion's bill has Burvived its temple, and lifts its sacred brow to the same sun that shone upon Thermopylae, and is swept by the same wind which laid the armaments of Xerxes low. The rainbow we to-day admire, is the same that was bent near the portal of the Ark; and the mighty rivers of America boar with their billows a murmur kindred to the Nile, as it moved the bulrushes o\' Egypt iu which the child Moses nestled, watched over by the sisterly love of Miriam. To bob men of the earlier times, the exterior and interior life were brought into perfect harmony, so as to produce that expansion of heart which is the real cause that makes rural existence so dehghtful to men of good will: for so sweel is it to them, that " they whose verse of yore the golden age recorded, and its bliss on the Parnassian moun- tain," seem to have foreseen it in Arcadian dreams. They loved clear waters, aspiring bills, with all the countless forms and tones which each returning spring reproduced more fair than ever to their growing appreciation. Nature prompted purifying tears in their eyes, that they might trace the goodness of their God in these bis lower works, wondering not that the Samaritan woman should have recognized and confessed the Messiah at the fountain, whom Jewish sages knew not in the temple. The fields and level shores were by them connected with religious mysteries; for. ,Ies U s standing by the lake of Genesareth when the multitude pressed upon him, the two boats afloat and the occupation of the fishermen, together with the walk through the corn with the disciples on the Sabbath, were designed to make such an - I E \ E RY AND MIND. 17 impression, thai one should never enjoy the beauties of nature, or the recreations of a country life, withoul being reminded of the blessed Redeemer. Bui mountains are especially associated with religion through the remembrance of thai mounl whose name has given a universal fame to the pale verdure of the olive, from that of Tabor, and Sinai, and Ephraim, which fed the holj Samuel. We read in the Iliad that Hector sacrificed on tin- top of Ma: ami the summits of mountains were ever selected, not only bj the Greeks, bu1 by nations taughl direct from heaven, a- tin- mosl appropriate situations whereon their altars should stand. It was on mountains thai the only true God manifested himself to the Hebrews of old, and i1 was on them thai the tremendous mysteries of redemption were accomplished. Connected with these grand objects, and in no small measure by them inspired, was tin' mighty energy which sent the apostle Paul to Mais Hill, preaching Jesus and the resurrection ; ami long afterwards, in a feebler degree, impelled Edward Erving to roll " the rich thunders of hi- aw t'ul voice," wh.-re mute thousands stood enraptured amid the glories of the Frith of Forth. Persons accustomed to explore the ruins of religious houses in Eng- land, and the seenei\ peculiar to each, will often lie struck with the fact that the several orders consulted their highest happiness, as well a- greatesl good, in fixing the site of their respective foundations. Evidently, mere convenience, or retirement, was not their chief aim; the\ f.lt that spiritual culture would be most auspicious, where natural charm- mosl ahound. Thej believed that in the shrine- which Jeho- vah had adorned with the clearest impress of his own attributes, and in which he had bidden nature contribute her richest gifts, — the glittering gems of her mineral stores, the fairest fold- of her tinted drapery, tin- delicate tracery of her interlacing boughs, the incense of her breathing flowers, the music of her gentlesl zephyr-, her sighing 48 SCEKEET AKD MIND. foliage, chanting birds, and gliding waters, — they also could most suitably offer adoration. Quiet nooks, shut in by the curving river, as Kirkstall ; rocky banks, encompassed with verdant foliage, as Foun- tains ; umbrageous and sequestered sea-coasts, as Netley ; green plots of smooth sward, traversed by some wild, romantic stream, asTintcrn; cool and solitary valleys, as Furness ; lovely shores, where the swift brook sparkles and bounds to the deep, as Beaulieu ;• — such were the Ik imcs the early Christians loved. And they had their reward. Their persons, their names, and the distinguishing features of their creeds, true and false, have mainly passed away, but the scenes of their earthly devotions are treasured by all the good. Still we visit their ruins, to mourn over their departed glories ; " and still they live in fame, though not in lii'e. , ' We may not adopt the theology of those devout build- ers, but it would be well for us to emulate their taste, knowing that while all sublunary things are transient, "a thing of beauty is a joy for ever ! " The enthusiastic painter, Gainsborough, exclaimed on his death- bed, — "We are all going to heaven, and Vandyke will be of the party." May the reader be imbued with something more divine than mere taste, that he may survive anguish or ecstasy in the energies of faith ; and, soaring amid the infinite glories of the universe, at each remove imbibing majestic charms of every hue and form, may he for ever realize the high significancy of our theme, — Sceneey and Mind. X I E W N E A R M N I) OUT. (ill: NT I N G TON.) The village of Rondout, founded in 1808, by the Delaware and Hudson ('anal Company, is situated near the Walkil] Creels on the Hudson, about ninety miles above the city of New-York, and two miles distant from Eddyville, where that Canal terminates. In the effective and mellow little picture from which our engrav- ing is taken, Mr. Huntington has pleasingly represented a secluded and romantic nook on the creek, near its entrance to the Hudson. In the background is a glimpse of the Catskill mountains. The picture is one of a pair belonging to Gen. John A. Dix, and is one of flie happiest efforts of the artist in this department, especially in its coloring. AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN SCENERY COMPARED. BY J . FENIMORE COOPER. Eh ert intellectual being has a longing to sec distant lands. We desire t<> ascertain, by actual observation, the peculiarities of nation-, the differences which exist between the stranger and ourselves, and as it might be all that lies beyond our daily experience. This feeling seems implanted in our nature, and few who possess the means of doing so fail to gratify it. Every day increases the amount of the intercourse between the people of different countries, and the happiesl results may be anticipated from this fusion of nations and the hu- manizing influences which are its consequences. Those, however, who are forbidden by circumstances to extend their personal observations beyond the limits of their own homes, musl be content to derive their information on such subjects from the pen, the pencil, and the graver. We understand it to be the design of this work to aid in impart- ing a portion of the intelligence, necessary to appease these cravings of our nature, and to equalize, as it might be, the knowledge of men and things. Our own task is very simple. It will lie confined to 52 AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN SCENERY. showing some of the leading peculiarities of tlie scenery of various nations, and to direct the attention of the reader to the minor circum- stances which give character to the landscape, hut which are seldom alluded to by the writers of graver works. The great distinction between American and European scenery, as a whole, is to be found in the greater want of finish in the former than in the latter, and to the greater superfluity of works of art in the old world than in the new. Nature has certainly made some dif- ferences, though there are large portions of continental Europe that, without their artificial accessories, might well pass for districts iu our own region; and which forcibly remind the traveller of his native home. As a whole, it must be admitted that Europe offers to the senses sublimer views and certainly grander, than are to be found within our own holders, unless we resort to the Rocky Mountains, and the ranges hi California and New Mexico. In musing on these subjects, the mind of the untravelled American naturally turns first towards England. He has pictured to himself landscapes and scenery on which are impressed the teeming history of the past. We shall endeavor to point out the leading distinc- tions between the scenery of England and that of America, therefore, as the course that will probably be most acceptable to the reader. The prevalent characteristic of the English landscape is its air of snugness and comfort. In these respects it differs entirely from its neighbor, France. The English, no doubt, have a great deal of poverty and squalid misery among them. But it is kept surpris- ingly out of the ordinary view. Most of it, indeed, is to be found in the towns, and even in them it is concealed in out of the way places and streets seldom entered by the stranger. There are places in America, more especially in the vicinities of the large towns, that have a strong resemblance to the more crowded A M E I! I A N A N !> E BOP E A N SC E N E U Y. portions of England, though the hedge is usually wanting and the stone wall is more in favor among ourselves than it appears ever to have been among our ancestors. The great abundance of wood, in this countiy, too, gives us the rail and the hoard for our fences, objects which the lovers of the picturesque would gladly see supplanted by the brier and the thorn. All thai part of Staten [sland, which lies nearest to the quarantine ground, has a marked resemblance to whal we should term suburban English landscape. The neighborhoods of most of the < >1< 1 towns in the northern States, have more or less of the same character ; it being natural that the descendants of Englishmen should have preserved as many of the usages of their forefathers as was practicable. We know of no portion of this country that bears an\ marked resemblance to the prevalent characteristics of an ordi- nary French landscape. In France there are two great distinctive features that seem to divide the materials of the views between them. One is that of a bald nakedness of formal grandes routes, systematically lined with tree-, a total absence of farm-houses, fences, hedges, and walls, little or no forest, except in particular places, scarcely any pieces of detached woods, and a husbandry that is remarkable for its stiffness and formality. The fields of a French acclivity, when the grain is ripe, or ripening, haveastrong resemblance to an ordinary Manchester pattern-card, in which the different cloths, varying in color, are placed under the eye at one glance. The effect of this is not pleasing. The lines being straight and the fields exhibiting none of the freedom of nature. Stiffness and formality, indeed, impair the beauty of nine- tenths of the French landscapes; though as a whole the country is considered tine, and is certainly very productive. The other distinc- tive feature to which we allude is of a directly contrary character, being remarkable for the affluence of its objects. It often occurs in that country that the traveller finds himself on a heighl that com- 54 AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN SCENERY. mands a view of great extent, which is literally covered with b&wrgs or small towns and villages. This occurs particularly in Normandy, in the vicinity of Paris, and as one approaches the Loire. In such places it is no unusual thing for the eye to embrace, as it might be in a single view, some forty or fifty cold, gravedooking, chiselled bourgs and villages, almost invariably erected in stone. The effect is not un- pleasant, for the subdued color of the buildings has a tendency to soften the landscape and to render the whole solemn and imposing. We can recall many of these scenes that have left indelible impres- sions on the mind, and which, if not positively beautiful in a rural sense, are very remarkable. That from the heights of Montmorenci, near Paris, is one of them ; and there is another, from the hill of St. Catharine, near Rouen, that is quite as extraordinary. The greater natural freedom that exists in an ordinary American landscape, and the abundance of detached fragments of wood, often render the views of this country strikingly beautiful when they are of sufficient extent to conceal the want of finish in the details, which require time and long-continued labor to accomplish. In this par- ticular we conceive that the older portions of the United States offer to the eye a general outline of view that may well claim to be even of a higher cast, than most of the scenery of the old w< >rld. There is one great charm, however, that it must be confessed is uearly wanting among us. We allude to the coast. Our own is, with scarcely an exception, low, monotonous and tame. It wants Alpine rocks, bold promontories, visible heights inland, and all those other glorious accessories of the sort that render the coast of the Mediter- ranean the wonder of the world. It is usual for the American to dilate on the size of his bays and rivers, but objects like these require corresponding elevation in the land. Admirable as is the bay of New- York for the purposes of commerce, it holds but a very subor- \Mi:UIable that the great mountains of the East or any part of the Andes, can assemble as many objects of grandeur, sweetness, mag- nificence and art, as are to be found in this region. Of course, our own country has nothing of the sort to compare with it. The Rocky Mountains, and the other great ranges in the recent accession of terri- tory, must possess many noble views, especially as one proceeds south ; but the accessories are necessarily wanting, for a union of art and nature can alone render scenery perfect. In the way of the wild, the terrific, and the grand, nature is suffi- cient of herself ; but Niagara is scarcely more imposing than she is now rendered lovely by the works of man. It is true that this cele- brated cataract has a marked sweetness of expression, if we may use such a term, that singularly softens its magnificence, and now that men are becoming more familiar with its mysteries, and penetrating into its very mists, by means of a small steamboat, — the admirer of nature discovers a character different from that which first strikes the senses. We regard it as hypercritical to speak of the want of Alpine scenery SlMEEICAW AND EUROPEAN SCENEKY. .".7 around Niagara. On what scale must the mountains be moulded to bear a just comparison, in this view of the matter, with the grandeur of the rataract! The Alps, the Andes, and the Hinunalaya, would scarcely suffice to furnish materials necessary to produce the contrast, on any measurement now known to the world. In fact the accessories, except as thej arc blended with the Falls themselves, as in the won- derful gorge through which the river rushes in an almosl fathomless torrent, a- it' frightened a1 its own terrific leap; the Whirl] 1, and all that properhj belongs to the stream, from the commencenaenl of the Rapids, or, to be more exact, from the placid, lake-like scenery above these Rapids, down to the point where the waters of this mighl v strait are poured into the bosom of the Ontario, strike ns a- being in singular harmony with the views of the Cataract itself. The Americans may well boast of their water-falls, and of their lakes, notwithstanding the admitted superiority of upper Italv and Switzerland in connection with the highest classes of the latter. They form objects of interest over a vast surface of territory, ami greatly relieve the monotony of the inland views. We do not now allude t,, the five greal lakes, which resemble seas ami offer verj much the same assemblage of objects to the eye; but to those of greatly inferior extent, that are sparkling over so much of the surface of the northern States. The east, and New- York in particular, abound in them, though farther west the lover of the picturesque must be content to receive the prairie in their stead. It would l>e a greal mistake, however, to attempt to compare any of these lakes with the finest of the old world; though many of them are M'\y lovely and all contribute to embellish the scenery. Lake George itself could not occupy more than a fourth or fifth position in a justly graduated scale of the lakes of < Ihristendom ; though certainly very charming to the eye, ami of singular variety in its aspects. In one particular, indeed, this lake ha- scarcely an equal. 58 AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN SCENERY. We allude to its islands, which are said to equal the number of the days in the year. Points, promontories, and headlands are scarcely ever substitutes for islands, which add inexpressibly to the effect of all water-views. It has been a question among the admirers of natural scenery, whether the presence or absence of detached farm-houses, of trees, of hedges, walls and fences, most contribute to the effect of any inland view. As these are the great points of distinction between the conti- nent of Europe and our own country, we shall pause a moment to examine the subject a little more in detail. When the towns and villages are sufficiently numerous to catch the attention of the eye, and there are occasional fragments of forest in sight, one does not so much miss the absence of that appearance of comfort and animated beauty that the other style of embellishment so eminently possesses. A great deal, however, dej^ends, as respects these particulars, on the nature of the architecture and the color of the buildings and fences. It is only in very particular places and under very dull lights, that the contrast between white and green is agreeable. A fence that looks as if it were covered with clothes hung out to dry, does very little towards aiding the picturesque. And he who endeavors to improve his taste in these particulars, will not fad to discover in time that a range of country which gives up its ol gects, chiselled and distinct, but sober, and sometimes sombre, will eventually take stronger hold of his fancy than one that is glittering with the fruits of the paint and white- wash brushes. We are never dissatisfied with the natural tints of stone, for the mind readily submits to the ordering of nature; and though one color may be preferred to another, each and all are accept- able in their proper places. Thus, a marble structure is expected to be white, and as such, if the building he of suitable dimensions and proportions, escapes our criticisms, on account of its richness and uses. \Mi:i:i( \\ AND EUROPEAN SCENERY. 59 The same maj be said of other hues, when nol artificial; bu1 we think thai mosl admirers of nature, as thej come to cultivate their tastes, settle down into a preference for the graj and subdued over all the brighter tints thai arl can produce. In this particular, then, we give the preference to the effects of European scenery, over thai of this country, where wood is so mud used for the purposes of building, and where the fashion has long been to color it with white. A better taste, however, or what we esteem as such, is beginning to prevail, and bouses in towns and villages are now not unfrequentlj even painted in subdued colors. We regard the effect as an improvement, though to our taste no hue. iii it- artificial objects, so embellishes a landscape as the -oleum color of the more sober, and less meretricious looking stones. We believe that a structure of white, with green Mind-, is almost peculiar to this country. In the most propitious situations, and under the happiest circumstances, the colors are unquestionably unsuited to architecture, which, like statuary, should have but one tint. If, however, it be deemed essential to the flaunting tastes of the mistress of some man-ion. to cause the hues of the edifice in which she resides to be as •ja\ as her toilette, we earnestly protest against the brigb.1 green that is occasionally introduced for such purposes. There is a graver tint, of the same color, that entirely changes the express] »f a dwelling. Place two of these houses in close proximity, and scarcely an intellec- tual being would pass them, without saying that the owner of the one was much superior to the owner of the other in all that marks the civilized man. Put a third structure in the immediate vicinity of these two. that should have hut one color on its surface, including its blinds, and we think that nine persons in ten, except the very vulgar and uninstructed, would at once jump to the conclusion that the owner of this habitation was in tastes and refinement superior to both his 60 AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN SCENERY. neighbors. A great improvement, however, in rural as well as in town architecture, is now in the course of introduction throughout all the northern States. More attention is paid to the picturesque than was formerly the case, and the effects are becoming as numerous as they are pleasing. We should particularize New Haven, as one of those towns that has been thus embellished of late years, and there are other places, of nearly equal size, that might be mentioned as having the same claims to an improved taste. But to return to the great distinctive features between an ordinary American landscape and a similar scene in Europe. Of the artificial accessories it is scarcely necessary to say any more. One does not expect to meet with a ruined castle or abbey, or even fortress, in America ; nor, on the other hand, does the traveller look for the forests of America, or that abun- dance of wood, which gives to nearly every farm a sufficiency for all the common wants of life, on the plains and heights of the old world. Wood there certainly is, and possibly enough to meet the ordinary wants of the different countries, but it is generally in the hands of the governments or the great proprietors, and takes the aspect of forests of greater or less size, that are well cared for, cleared and trimmed like the grounds of a park. Germany has, we think, in some respects a strong resemblance to the views of America. It is not so much wanting in detached copses and smaller plantations of trees as the countries farther south and east of it, while it has less of the naked aspect in general that is so remark- aide in France. Detached buildings occur more frequently in Germany than in France especially, and we might add also in Spain. The reader will remember that it is a prevalent usage throughout Europe, with the exception of the British Islands, Holland, and here and there a province in other countries, for the rural population to dwell in villages. This practice gives to the German landscape, in particular, a \\li.i:ii \\ ami Ki UOPEAN SCENERY. 61 species <>t' resemblance to what is ordinarilj termed park scenery, though it is necessarilj wanting in much of thai expression which characterizes the embellishments thai properhj belong to the latter. With ns this resemblance is often even stronger, in consequence of the careless graces of nature and the great affluence of detached woods; tlir distinguishing features existing in the farm-house, fences ami out- buildinffs. Of a cloudy day, a distant view in America often bears this likeness to the park, in a very marked degree, for then the graces of the scene are visible to the eye, while the defects of the details are too remote to he detected. The mountain scenery of the United States, though wanting in grandeur, and in that wild sublimity which ordinarily belongs to a granite formation, is not without attractions that are singularly its own. The great abundance of forest, the arable qualities of the soil, and the peculiar Mending of what may he termed the agricultural ami the savage, unite to produce landscapes of extraordinary beauty and grace. Vast regions of country possessing this character are to be found in almost all the old States, for after quitting the coast for a greater or less distance, varying from one to two hundred miles, the ranges of the Alleghanies interpose between the monotonous districts of the Atlantic shores and the great plains of the west. We are of opinion that as civilization advances, and the husbandman has brought his lands to the highest state of cultivation, there will be a line of mountain scenery extending from Maine to Georgia, in a north and south direction, and possessing a. general width of from one to two hundred miles, from east to west, that will scarcely have a parallel in any other quarter of the world, in those sylvan upland landscapes, which, while they are wanting in the sublimity of the Alpine regions, share so largely in the striking and effective. It is usual for the American to boast of his rivers, no1 only for 62 AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN SCENERY. their size and usefulness, but for their beauties. A thousand streams, that in older regions would have been rendered memorable, ages since, by the poet, the painter, art in every form, and the events of a teeming history, flow within the limits of the United States still unsung, aud nearly unknown. As yet, something is ordinarily wanting, in the way of finish, along the banks of these inferior water-courses. But occasion- ally, in places where art has, as it might be, accidentally assisted nature, they come into the landscape with the most pleasing influence e no mistake, by receiving the term in any other than a limited sense. Any Avell delineated view of a high-class Swiss scene, must at once convince even the most provincial mind among us that nothing of the sort is to be found in America, east of the Rocky Mountains. Never- theless, the Adirondack has claims to a wild grandeur, which, if it do not approach magnificence, is of a character to impress a region with the seal of a very noble nature. The lovers of the picturesque \ M i: i: I i \ N \ n D EUROPEAN 3CENEBY. 65 sustain a greal loss by means of the numerous lines of railroads thai have recently come into existence. This is true of both Europe and America. In the course of time, it will be found that every where a country presents its besl face towards its thoroughfares. Ever} thing that depends on art, naturally takes this aspect, for men are as likelj to put "ii their best appearance along a wayside in the country as on the streets of a town. All that lias Ween done, therefore, in past ages, in thes,- particular-, is being deranged and in some instances deformed by the necessity of preserving levels, and avoiding the more valuable portions of a country, in order to diminish expense. Thus villages and towns are no longer entered by their finest passages, producing the best effects; but the traveller is apt to find his view limited by ranges of sheds, out-houses, and other deformities of that nature. Here and there, some work of art, compelled by necessity, furnishes a relief to this deformity. But on the whole, the recenl system of railroads has as yet done very little towards adding much to the picturesque for the benefit of the traveller. Here and there is to be found an excep- tion, however, to this rule; portions of the Erie railroad, and the whole of the Hudson River, as well as that along the Rhine, necessa- rily possessing the advantage of sharing in the sublimity and -race through which they pass. Time will, of course, remedy the detects of the whole arrangement ; and a new front will be presented, as it ma\ lie, to the traveller throughout the civilized world. Whether human ingenuity will yet succeed in inventing substitutes for the smoke and other unpleasant appliance-, of a railroad train, remains to be seen ; luit we think few will lie disposed to differ from us, when we saj that in our view of the matter this great improvement of modern inter- course has done very little towards the embellishment of a country in the way of landscapes. The graceful winding curvatures of the old highways, the acclivities ami declivities, tie- copses, meadow- and 66 AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN SCENERY. woods, the half-hidden church, nestling among the leaves of its elms and pines, the neat and secluded hamlet, the farm-house, with all its comforts and sober arrangements, so disposed as to greet the eye of the passenger, will long be hopelessly looked for by him who flies through these scenes, which, like a picture placed in a false light, no longer reflects the genius and skill of the artist. The old world enjoys an advantage as regards the picturesque and pleasing, in connection with its towns, that is wholly unknown, unless it may be in the way of exception, among ourselves. The necessity, in the middle ages, of building for defence, and the want of artillery before the invention of gunpowder, contributed to the construction of military works for the protection of the towns of Europe, that still remain, owing to their durable materials, often producing some of the finest effects that the imagination could invent to embellish a picture. Nothing of the sort, of course, is to be met with here, for we have no castles, have never felt the necessity of fortified towns, and had no existence at the period when works of this nature came within the ordinary appliances of society. On the contrary, the utilitarian spirit of the day labors to erase every inequality from the surface of the American town, substituting convenience for appearance. It is proba- ble there is no one who, in the end, would not give a preference to these new improvements for a permanent residence ; but it is not to be denied that s<> far as the landscape is concerned, the customs of the middle ages constructed much the most picturesque and striking col- lections of human habitations. Indeed, it is scarcely possible for the mind to conceive of objects of this nature, that are thrown together with finer effects, than are to be met with among the mountainous regions, in particular, of Europe. We illustrate one or two that are to be met with in the Apennines, and the Alps, and even in Ger- many, as proofs of what we say. The eye, of itself, will teach the \ M i: i: 1 c \ N ami 1:1 ROPE AN SCENERY. 6*7 reader, that Richmond and Boston, and Washington and Baltimore, and half-a-dozen other American towns thai do possess more or less of an unequal surface, musl yield the palm to those gloriously beautiful objects of the old world. When it is remembered, too, how much time has multiplied these last, it can be seen that there are large dis- tricts in the mountain regions of the other hemisphere, that enjoj this superiority over us, if superiority it can be called, to poss e>< the picturesque, at the expense of the convenient. The imagination can scarcely equal the pictures of this nature that often meet the eye in 1 lie southern countries of Europe. Villages, with the chiselled outlines of castles, gray, soml ire, but distinct, are often seen, perched on the summits of rocky heights, or adhering, as it might be, to their sides, in situations that are frequently even appalling, and which invariably lend a character of peculiar beauty to the view. There are parts of Europe in which the traveller encounters these objects in great num- bers, and if an American, they never fail to attract his attention, as the wigwam and the hark canoe, and the prairie with lines of bisons, would catch the eye of a wayfarer from the old world. To these humbler mountain pictures, must lie added many a castle and strong- hold of royal, or semi-royal origin, that are met with on the summits of abrupt and rocky eminences farther north. Germany has many of these strong-holds, which are kept up to the present day and which are found to he useful as places of security, as they are certainly pecu- liar and interesting in the landscape. It has often been said li\ scientific writers, that this country affords man] signs of an origin more recent than the surface of Europe. The proofs cited are the greater depths of the ravines, wrought bj the action of the waters following the courses of the torrents, and the greater and general aspect of antiquity that is impressed on natural ob- jects in the other hemisphere. This theory, however, has met with a 68 AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN SCENERY. distinguished opponent in our own time. "Without entering at all into the merits of this controversy, we shall admit that to the ordinary eye America generally is impressed with an ah- of freshness, youthfulness, and in many instances, to use a coarse but expressive term, rawness, that are seldom, if ever, met with in Europe. It might perhaps be easy to account for this by the labors of man, alone, though we think that natural objects contribute their full share towards deepening the picture. We know of no mountain summits on this side of the Atlan- tic that wear the hoary hues of hundreds that are seen on the other side of the water ; and nearly everywhere in this country that the eye rests on a mountain-top, it encounters a rounded outline of no very decided tints, unless, indeed, it may actually encounter verdure. To our eye, this character of youthfulness is very strongly perceptible throughout those portions of the republic with which we are per- sonally acquainted, and we say this without reference to the recent settlements, which necessarily partake of this character, but to the oldest and most finished of our own landscapes. The banks of the Hudson, for instance, have not the impress of time as strongly marked on their heights and headlands, and bays, and even mountains, as tlie banks of the Bhine ; and we have often even fancied that this distinguishing feature between the old and new worlds is to be traced on nearly every object of nature or art. Doubtless the latter has been the principal agent in producing these effects ; but it is unde- niable that they form a leading point of distinction in the general character of the scenery of the two continents. As for England, it has a shorn and shaven aspect that reminds one of the husbandman in his Sunday's attire ; for we have seen that island in February, when, owing to the great quantity of its grain and the prevalent humidity of the atmosphere, it really appeared to us to possess more verdure than it did in the subsequent July and August. \Mi:i:i< \\ AMI EUROPEAN SCENERY. 69 There is one feature in European scenery, generally, more preva- lent, however, in Catholic than in ether countries, to which we must allude before we close. The bourg, or town, with its gray castellated outlines, ami possibly with walls of the middle ages, is, almosl invaria- bly, clustered around the high, pointed root's ami solemn towers of the church. With us, how different is the effect! Haifa dozen ill-shaped, and \ et pretending' cupolas, and other ambitious objects, half the time in painted wood, just peer above the village, while the most aspiring roof is almost invariably that of the tavern. Id may be easy enough to account for this difference, and to offer a sufficient apology for its e\i-tence. But to the observant lover of the picturesque the effecl is not only unpleasant but often repulsive. No one of ordinary liberality would wish to interfere with freedom of conscience, in order to obtain fine landscapes ; but this is one of the hundred instances in which the thoughtful man finds reason to regret that the church, as it exists anion-- as, is not really more Catholic. To conclude, we concede to Europe much the noblest scenery, in its Alps, Pyrenees, and Apennines; in its objects of art, as a matter of course; in all those effects which depend on time and association, in its monuments, and in this impress of the past which may be said to be retlected in its countenance; while we claim for America the freshness of a most promising- youth, and a species of natural radiance that carries the mind with reverence to the source of all that is glorious around us. •• THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. BY WASHINGTON IRVING. The Cat-kill, KatskUl, or Cat River Mountains derived their name, in the time of the Dutch domination, from the Catamounts by which tli<\ urn' infested; and which, with the bear, the wolf, and the dorr, arc still to be found in some of their most difficult recesses. The interior of these mountains is in the highest degree wild and romantic; here are rocky precipices mantled with primeval forests; deep gorges walled in ly beetling clifts, with torrents tumbling as il were from the sky; and savage glens rarely trodden excepting by (lie hunter. With all this internal rudeness, the aspect of these mountains toward the Hudson at times is eminently bland and beautiful, sloping down into a country softened by cultivation, and bearing much of the rich character of Italian sceneiy about the skirts of the Apennines. The Catskills form an advanced post, or lateral spur of tin' greal Alleganian or Appalachian system of mountains which sweeps through tie- interior of our continent, from Southwest to Northeast, from Alabama to the extremity of Maine, tor nearly fourteen hundred miles, belting the whole of our original confederacy, and rivalling our 72 T II E CAT8KHL MOUNTAINS. greal system of lakes in extent and grandeur. Its vast ramifications comprise a number of parallel chains and lateral groups; such as the Cumberland Mountains, the Blue Ridge, the Allegauies, the Dela- ware and Lehigh, the Highlands of the Hudson, the Green Mountains of Vermont, and the White Mountains of New Hampshire. In many of these vast ranges or sierras, nature still reigns in indomitable wild- ness: their rocky ridges, their rugged clefts and defiles, teem with magnificent vegetation. Here are locked up mighty forests that have never been invaded by the axe; deep umbrageous valleys where the virgin soil has never been outraged by the plough; bright streams flowing in untasked idleness, unburthened by commerce, unchecked by the mill-dam. This mountain zone is in fact the great poetical region of our country; resisting, like the tribes which once inhabited it, the taming hand of cultivation; and maintaining a hallowed ground for fancy and the muses. It is a magnificent and all-pervading feature, that might have given our country a name, and a poetical one, had not the all-controlling powers of common-place determined otherwise. The Catskill Mountains, as I have observed, maintain all the inter- nal wildness of the labyrinth of mountains with which they are con- nected. Their detached position, overlooking a wide lowland region, with the majestic Hudson rolling through it, has given them a distinct character, and rendered them at all times a rallying point for romance and fable. Much of the fanciful associations with which they have been clothed may be owing to their being peculiarly subject to those beautiful atmospherical effects which constitute one of the great charms of Hudson River scenery. To me they have ever been the fairy region of the Hudson. I speak, however, from early impres- sions ; made in the happy days of boyhood ; when all the world had a tinge of fairy land. I shall never forget my first view of these mountains. It was in the course of a voyage up the Hudson in the 'I'll E (' A TS K 1 I. I. M o r \ I A 1 \ s. 7.", good old times before steamboats and railroads had driven all poetry and romance oul of travel. A voyage up the Hudson in those days, was equal to a voyage to Europe at present, and cosl almosl as much time : but we enjoyed the river (hen ; we relished it ;l s we did our wine, si]> bj sip, not, as at present, gulping all down at a draughl with. ait tasting it. M\ whole voyage up the Hudson was full of wonder and romance. 1 was ;1 lively boy, somewhat imaginative, of easy faith, and prone to relish everything which partook of the marvellous. Among the passengers on board of the sloop was a veteran Indian trader, on his way to the Ink.-, to traffic with the natives. He had discovered my propensity, and amused himself throughout the voyage by telling me Indian legends and grotesque stories about everj noted place on the river, such as Spuyten Devil Creek, the Tappan Sea, the Devil's Dans- Kammer, and other hobgoblin places. The Catskill Mountains espe- cially called forth a hosl of fanciful traditions. We were all da\ slowly tiding along in sight of them, so that he had full time to weave hi- whimsical narratives. In these mountains he told me, according to Indian belief, was kept the greal treasury of storm and sunshine, for the region of the Hudson. An old squaw spirit had charge of it, who dwelt <,n the highest peak of the mountain. Here she kept Day and Nighl shut up in her wigwam, letting out only one of them at a time. She made new moons every month, and hung them up in the -k\. cutting up the old ones into stars. The greal Manitou, or master spirit, employ- ed her to manufacture clouds; sometimes she wove them out of cob- webs, gossamers, and morning dew, and sent them off (lake after (lake, to tloat iii the air and give light summer showers- sometimes she would brew up Mack thunder-storms, and send down drenching rain-; to -well the streams and sweep everything away. He had mam stories, also, about mischievous spirits who infested the mountains in the shape of animals, and played all kind- of pranks upon Indian 10 74 THE OAT SKILL MOUNTAINS. hunters, decoying tlieni into quagmires and morasses, or to the brinks of torrents and precipices* All these were doled out to me as I lay- on the deck throughout a long summer's day, gazing upon these moun- tains, the ever-changing shapes and hues of which appeared to realize the magical influences in question — sometimes they seemed to ap- proach ; at others to recede ; during the heat of the day they almost melted into a sultry haze ; as the day declined they deepened in tone ; their summits were brightened by the last rays of the sun, and later in the evening their whole outline was printed in deep purple against an amber sky. As I beheld them thus shifting continually before my eye, and listened to the marvellous legends of the trader, a host of fanciful notions concerning them was conjured into my brain, which have haunted it ever since. As to the Indian superstitions concerning the treasury of storms and sunshine, and the cloud-weaving spirits, they may have been sug- gested by the atmospherical phenomena of these mountains, the clouds which gather round their summits and the thousand aerial effects which indicate the changes of weather over a great extent of country. They are epitomes of our variable climate, and are stamped with all its vicissitudes. And here let me say a word in favor of those vicissitudes which are too often made the subject of exclusive repining. If they annoy us occasionally by changes from hot to cold, from wet to dry, they give us one of the most beautiful climates in the world. They give us the brilliant sunshine of the south of Europe with the fresh verdure of the north. They float our summer sky with clouds of gor- geous tints or fleecy whiteness, and send down cooling showers to refresh the panting earth and keep it green. Our seasons are all poetical ; the * Some of these Indian superstitions about the Catskill Mountains have already been spoken of in a postscript to Rip Van Winkle, in the revised edition of the Sketch Book. T II 10 CATSKILL .M < > I ' N I A 1 N s . 7 5 phenomena of our heavens are full of sublimity and beauty. Winter with ii- has none of its pro\ erbial gloom. It may have its howling winds, and thrilling frosts, and whirling snow-storms ; but it has also its long inter- nals of cloudless sunshine, when the snow-clad earth gives redoubled brightness to the day ; when at night the stars beam with intensesl lustre, or the iiicHiu floods the whole landscape with her most limpid radiance — and then the joyous outbreak of our spring, bursting a1 once into leaf and blossom, redundant with vegetation, and vociferous with life! — and the splendors of our summer ; its morning voluptuousness and r\ ening glorj ; its airy palaces of sun-gilt clouds piled up in a deep azure sky; and its gusts of tempest of almost tropical grandeur, when the forked lightning and the bellowing thunder volley from the battlements of heaven and shake the sultry atniosphert and the sublime melancholy of our autumn, magnificent in its decay, withering down the pomp and pride of a woodland country, yet reflecting back from its yellow forests the golden serenity of the sky — - surely we may say that in our climate "the heavens declare the glory of God, and the firmament showeth forth his handy work: day unto day uttereth speech; and night unto night showeth knowledge." A word more concerning the Catskills. It is not the Indians only to whom they have been a kind of wonder-land. In the earlj times of the Dutch dynasty we find them themes of golden speculation among even the sages of New Amsterdam. During the administration of Wilhelmus Kieft there was a meeting between the Director of the New Netherlands and the chiefs of the Mohawk nation to conclude a treaty of peace. On this occasion the Director was accompanied by Mynheer Adriaen Van '\rv Donk, Doctor of Laws, and subsequently historian of the colony. The Indian chiefs, as usual, painted and deco- rated themselves ( ,n the ceremony. One of them in so doing made use of a pigment, the weight and shining appearance of which attracted 76 THE CATSKILI MOUNTAINS. the notice of Kieft and his learned companion, who suspected it to be ore. They procured a lump of it, and took it back with them to New Amsterdam. Here it was submitted to the inspection of Iohannes De la Montague, an eminent Huguenot doctor of medicine, one of the counsel- lors of the New Netherlands. The supposed ore was forthwith put in a crucible aud assayed, and to the great exultation of the junto yielded two pieces of gold, worth about three guilders. This golden discovery was kept a profound secret. As soon as the treaty of peace was adjusted with the Mohawks, William Kieft sent a trust}- officer and a party of men under guidance of an Indian, who undertook to conduct them to the place whence the ore had been found. We have no account of this gold-hunting expedition, nor of its whereabouts, excepting that it was somewhere on the Catskill Mountains. The exploring party brought back a 1 mcketful of ore. Like the former specimen it was submitted to the crucible of De la Montagne, and was equally produc- tive of gold. All this we have on the authority of Doctor Van der Donk, who was an eye-witness of the process and its result, and re- cords the whole in his Description of the New Netherlands. William Kieft now dispatched a confidential agent, one Arent Cor- sen, to convey a sackful of the precious ore to Holland. Corsen em- barked at New Haven in a British vessel bound to England, whence he was to cross to Rotterdam. The ship set sail about Christmas, but never reached her port. All on board perished. In 104*7, when the redoubtable Petrus Stuyvesant took command of the New Netherlands, William Kieft embarked, on his return to Holland, provided with further specimens of the Catskill Mountain ore; from which he doubtless indulged golden anticipations. A similar fate attended him with that which had befallen his agent. The ship in which he had embarked was cast away, and he and his treasure were swallowed in the waves. Here closes the golden legend of the Catskills ; but another one <>t' THE CATSKILX MOUNTAINS. .1 similar import succeeds. In L649, aboul two years after the ship- wreck of Wilhelmus Kieft, there was again rumor of precious metals in these mountains. Mynheer Brant Arenl Van Slechtenhorst, agenl of the Patroon of Rensselaerswyck, had purchased in behalf of the Patroon a tract of the Cat-kill lands, and leased it out in farms. A Dutch lass in the household of one of the farmers found one daj a glittering substance, which, on being examined, was pronounced silver ore. Branl Van Slechtenhorst forthwith sent his son from Rensselaers- wyck to explore the mountains in quest of' the supposed mines. The young man put up in the farmer's house, which had recently been erected on the margin of a mountain stream. Scarcely was he housed when a furious storm burst forth on the mountains. The thunders rolled, the lightnings Hashed, the rain came down in cataracts; the stream was suddenly swollen to a furious torrent thirtj feel deep; the farm-house and all its contents were swept away, and it was onlj by dint of excellent swimming that young Slechtenhorst saved hi- own life and the lives of his horses. Shortly after this a feud broke out between Peter Stuyvesant and the Patroon of Rensselaerswyck on account of the right and title to the Catskill Mountains, in the course of which the elder Slechtenhorst was taken captive by the Potentate of the New Netherlands and thrown in prison at New Am- sterdam. We have met with no record of any further attempt to get at the treasures of the Catskdlls; adventurers may have been discouraged by the ill luck which appeared to attend all who meddled with them, as if fchey were under the guardian keep of the same spirits or goblins who once haunted the mountain- and ruled over the weather. That gold and silver ore was actually procured from these moun- tain- in days of yore, we have historical evidence to prove, and the re- corded word of Adiiaen Van del' Donk, a man of weight, who was an 78 THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. eye-witness. If gold and silver were once to be found there, they must be there at present. It remains to be seen, in these gold-hunting days, whether the quest will be renewed, and some daring adventurer, fired with a true Californian spirit, will penetrate the mysteries of these mountains and open a golden region on the borders of the Hudson. A DISSOLVING VIEW. iiv .miss coop e i; . Autumn is the season for day-dreams. Wherever, at least, an American landscape shows its wooded heights dyed with the glory of ( >cti>l><'r, its lawns and meadows decked with colored groves, its broad and limpid waters reflecting the same bright lines, there the brilliant novelty of the scene, that strange beauty to which the eye never becomes wholly accustomed, would seem to arouse the fancy to unusual activity. Images, quaint and strange, rise unhidden and till the mind, until we pause at length to make sure that, amid the novel aspect of the country, its inhabitants are still the same; we look again to convince ourselves that the pillared cottages, the wooden churches, the brick trading-houses, the long and many-windowed taverns, are still what they were a month earlier. The softening haze of the Indian summer, so common at the same season, add- to the illusory character of the view. The mountains have grown higher; their massive forms have acquired a new dignity from the airy veil which enfolds them, jusl as the drapery of ancient marbles serves to give additional grace to the movement of a limb, or to 80 A DISSOLVING VIEW. mark more nobly the proportions of the form over which it is thrown. The different ridges, the lesser knolls, rise before us with new impor- tance ; the distances of the perspective are magnified ; and yet, at the same time, the comparative relations which the different objects bear to each other, are revealed with a beautiful accuracy wanting in a clearer atmosphere, where the unaided eye is more apt to err. There is always something of uncertainty, of caprice if you will, connected with our American autumn, which fixes the attention anew, every succeeding year, and adds to the fanciful character of the season. The beauty of spring is of a more assured nature; the same tints rise year after year in her verdure, and in her blossoms, but autumn is what our friends in France call " une beaute journal V 'ere? variable, changeable, not alike twice in succession, gay and brilliant yesterday, more languid and pale to-day. The hill-sides, the different groves, the single trees, vary from year to year under the combined influences of clouds and sunshine, the soft haze, or the clear frost ; the maple or oak, which last October was gorgeous crimson, may choose this season to wear the golden tint of the chestnut, or the pale yellow of duller trees ; the ash, which was straw-color, may become dark purple. One never knows beforehand exactly what to expect ; there is always some varia- tion, < >ccasionally a strange contrast. It is like awaiting the sunset of a brilliant day ; we feel confident that the evening sky will be beauti- ful, but what gorgeous clouds or what pearly tints may appear to delight the eye, no one can foretell. It was a soft hazy morning, early in October. The distant hills, with their rounded, dome-like heights, rising in every direction, had assumed on the surface of their crowning woods a rich tint of bronze, as though the swelling summits, gleaming in the sunlight, were wrought in fretted ornaments of that metal. Here and there a scarlet maple stood in full colored beauty, amid surrounding groves of green. a D [SSO i. V i \<; V i 1: w . 81 A group of young oaks close a1 hand had also fell the influence of the frosty autumnal dews; their foliage, generally, was a lively green, worthy of June, wholly unlike decay, and yet each tree was touched here and therewith vivid snatches of the brightest red; the -mailer twigs close to the trunk forming brilliant crimson tufts, like knot- of ribbon. One might have fancied them a band of young knights, wear- in-- their ladies' colors over their hearts. A pretty flowering dogwood close at hand, with delicate shaft and airy branches, flushed with it- own peculiar tint of richest lake, was perchance the lady of the grove, the beauty whose colors were fluttering on the breasts of the knightly oaks on either side. The tiny seedling maples, with their delicate leaflets, were also in color, in choice shades of scarlet, crimson, and pink, like a new race of flowers blooming about the roots of the autumnal forest. We were sitting upon the trunk of a fallen pine, near a projecting cliff which overlooked the country for some fifteen miles or more; the lake, the rural town, and the farms in the valley beyond, lying at our feet like a beautiful map. A noisy flock of blue jays were chattering among the oak- whose branches overshadowed our seat, and a busy squirrel was dropping his winter store of chestnuts from another tree close at hand. A gentle breeze from the south came rustling through the colored woods, and already there was an autumnal sound in their murmurs. There is a difference in the music of the woods as the seasons change. In winter, when the waving limbs are bare, there is more of unity in the dee]) wail of the winds as they -weep through the forests; in 8ummer the rustling foliage gives some higher and more cheerful notes to the general harmony: and there is alsoachange of kej from the softer murmurs of the fresh foliage of earbj summer, to the sharp tones of the dry and withering lease- in ( >ctober. There i> something of a social spirit in the brilliancj of our Ame- 11 82 A DISSOLVING VIEW. rican autumn. All the glory of the colored forest would seem dis- played for human eyes to eujoy ; there is, in its earlier stages, an ah* of festive gayety which accords well with the cheerful labors of the sea- son, and there is a richness in the spectacle worthy of the harvest- home of a fruitful land. I should not care to pass the season in the wilderness which still covers large portions of the country ; either winter or summer should be the time for roaming in those boundless woods ; but with October let us return to a peopled region. A broad extent of forest is no doubt necessary to the magnificent spectacle, but there should also be broken woods, scattered groves, and isolated trees ; and it strikes me that the quiet fields of man, and his cheerful dwellings, should also have a place in the gay picture. Yes ; we felt convinced that an autumn view of the valley at our feet must be finer in its present varied aspect, than in past ages when wholly covered with wood. The hand of man generally improves a landscape. The earth has been given to him, and his presence in Eden is natural ; he gives life and spirit to the garden. It is only when he endeavors to rise above his true part of laborer and husbandman, when he assumes the cha- racter of creator, and piles you up hills, pumps you up a river, scatters stones, or sprinkles cascades, that lie is apt to fail. Generally the grassy meadow in the valley, the winding road climbing the hill-side, the cheerful village on the bank of the stream, give a higher addi- tional interest to the view ; or where there is something amiss in the scene, it is when there is some evident want of judgment, or good sense, or perhaps some proof of selfish avarice, or wastefulness, as when a country is stripped of its wood to fill the pockets or feed the fires of one generation. It is true there are scenes on so vast a scale, scenes so striking in themselves, that whatever there may be of man in view is at first A DISSOLVl SO V I E w. 83 wholly overlooked ; we note the valley, but not his villages : we see the winding stream, but not the fisher's skiff; even in these instances, however, after the firsl vivid impressions produced by the grandeur of the spectacle, we please ourselves by dwelling on the lesser features awhile; ami after wondering on the Righi-Kulm at the sublime arraj of hoarj Alps bounding the distant horizon, we pause to note the smoke curling from the hamlet in the nearest valley, we mark the chalets dotting the mountain-side, or the white sail of the boat making it- w n\ across the lake. Even in those sublime scenes, where no trace of man meets the eye, in the cheerless monotony of the steppes of central Asia, in the arid deserts of Africa, a ug the uninhabited Andes, or in the bound- less forests of America, it is the absence of human life which is so highly impressive : and if other portions of the earth were not peopled with intellectual beings, mapped out by them and marked with their works, the contrast of those strange solitudes could not lie felt by the heart of the wanderer. All the other innumerable tribes of animated beings inhabiting this world, may crowd a country, and scarcely make an impression on its face which the winds and rains of a few seasons will not wholly obliterate; but man, in his most savage condition, shall raise some fortification, or heap over the bones of his heroes some vast misshapen pile, which outlast- perhaps the existence of a whole race. The south- eastern portion of Europe is a vast level region, resembling in many particulars the steppe- of central Asia, or the great prairies of our own country; until recently it lay a broad unpeopled waste, no pail of which had been brought under cultivation; but in the midst of these grassy solitudes rise rude ancient tumuli, or barrows, whoss origin goes back to periods anterior to historj ; nomadic shepherd tribes passed and repassed the ground forages, but knew nothing of 84 A DISSOLVING VIEW. their story. Similar tumuli are numerous in western Asia also, and, like the mounds of our own continent, they doubtless belong to a rude and ancient race. These old works of earth, whose great piles refuse to reveal the names of those who reared them, never fail to excite a peculiar interest ; there is a spirit of mystery hovering over them beyond what is connected with monuments of any later period, even the proudest labors in stone ; so like the works of nature in this re- spect, they seem to possess for us something of the same profound secrecy. These lasting and remarkable tumuli, or mounds, although they produce no very striking effect on the aspect of a country, yet have an important place in the long array of works which give a pe- culiar character to the lands which man has once held as his own. The monuments of a succeeding age, raised by a more skilful peo- ple, are much more prominent. Indeed it would seem as if man had no sooner mastered the art of architecture, than he aimed at rivalling the dignity and durability of the works of nature which served as his models ; he resolved that his -nails of vast stones should stand in place as long as the rocks from which they were hewn ; that his col- umns and his arches should live with the trees and branches from which they were copied ; he determined to scale the heavens with his proud towers of Babel. The durability of their architecture still re- mains to the present day one of the most remarkable characteristics of those ancient ages. Such is the wonder excited in the minds of the most skilful architects of the present day at the sight of the im- mense masses of stone transported and uplifted, apparently at will, by those ancient nations, that some have supposed them to have possessed mechanical powers of their own, lost to succeeding ages, and not yet regained by ourselves. Certainly it would appear a well-assured fact, that the oldest works of the first great architects have been the most em lining and the most imposing of all that human art has raised. A DISSOLVING VI E W. 85 How many centuries were required to ruin Babylon! Willi the pro- phetic curse of desolation hovering over her towns fur ages, the vio- lence of a dozen generations was aroused against her, nation after nation was brought to the work, ere that curse was fulfilled, and all her pride laid in the dust; and still to-day her shapeless ruins break the surface of the level desert which surrounds them. I k at the ancient temples of India ; look at Egypt with her ■wonderful works ; all the proudest edifices of modern times may ye1 tall to the ground, ere those Pyramids are ruined; they may see the last future acts of the earth's story, as they have stood mute witnesses of a thousand pasl histories. What were thai level country of Egypt, thai muddj Nile, without the Pyramids and the surrounding coeval monuments! Look, even later, at the works of Grecian and Roman ait. Al- though Greece and Rome were the chosen prey of barbarous nations for ages, yet not all the fury of millions of savages could utterly de- stroy the monuments they raised. Study the ruined temples, and theatres, and tombs, the aqueducts, the bridges of those ancient na- tions. Wha1 architectural labors have we which for excellence and beauty will compare with them \ For thousands of years they have stood, noble, distinctive features of the lands to which they belong. The little temple of the Sybil seems, to modern eyes, as much an in- tegral part of the surrounding hills, and the valley of Tivoli, as the evergreen oaks and olive trees, ay, as the stream which flings itself over the rocks at its feet. Wha1 were the Campagna, without it- broken aqueducts, its ancient tombs ? What were Rome itself withoul it- ruins? The architectural remains of those old works still give to the seven hills, ami the I. road plain aboul them, a positive beauty, which their modern works, imposing as they are, cannot equal. It i- well for us that those races of old undertook such noble labors. Ma\ we not believe that there was something Providential in 86 A DISSOLVING VIEW. the feeling which led them to erect such lasting monuments % They built for us. Such works as the Pyramids, and their cotemporary temples, such works as those of Babel, Psestum, the Coliseum, the Par- thenon, belong to the race ; their influence is not confined to the soil on which they stand. As the sun of Time descends to complete its course, their shadows are thrown over the whole earth. In the middle ages, after Europe had become Christian, all the edifices of sufficient importance to give character to a country were divided in two great classes; they were the Gothic churches and abbeys of religion, or the fortified castles of war. It is rather singular that the age of the greatest extent of religious houses should also have been peculiarly an age of warfare; but no doubt the very prevalence of this warlike spirit was a cause of the increase of monarchism. If the dozen hills about a valley were each crowned with a castle, and if half a dozen feuds between their different lords laid waste the sur- rounding country, it became a sort of necessity for a Christian society that one house of peace, at least, should lie in the meadows of the valley, in view from the towers. The very violence of the age, united to the superstitious nature of religion at the time, was thus no doubt a cause of the great size and riches of the churches. Louis XI. of France, as a general rule, committed some act of cruelty or treachery every morning, and then sought to buy a pardon in the evening by some pecuniary favor to church or abbey ; and there were in those days many knights and barons bold whose consciences were appeased by the same course of proceeding. The durability of the works of the middle ages — although they had lost so much of ancient civilization — is still very remarkable. Some of the cathedrals, the castles, and the bridges of those days are likely, with a few exceptions here and there, to outlast modern works of the same nature ; certainly they may outlast those now standing in a ]> i sso i. v i x<; v i E w. 81 this country. There are bridges of thai period in the wildest part- of Europe, so bold in their position, spanning gorges so deep, springing from precipices so abrupt, thai the people of later days gave them a magical origin, calling them " Devils' Bridges." There are feudal castles with walls so massive, that the idea <>t' razing them was abandoned after the orders to do so had been given. Their vasl cathedrals, whose noble spires still rise so grandly above the roofs of the towns to which they belong, were ages in building; some of these, nay, one maj say many of them, required such vasl sums of money, and such a long period of time to carry out the ureal designs of their architects, that tlie\ have remained unfinished to the present hour. They not only built for the future, in those days, but they expected posterity to work with them; and as one generation lay down in their graves, they called another generation to the pious labor. It is not exactly as a stranger that an American looks at these re- mains of feudal days, that he stands before the halt-ruined walls of their castles ; in one sense we also have an interesl in them. Who knows but ancestors of our own may have been among the squires who crossed that drawbridge, or among the masons who built the walls, or with the peasants who clustered under the protection of the banners of yonder ruined hold? At any rate there is 1 ue breathing in Christendom who,!' present late, perhaps both for good and for evil, ha- not been in some measure influenced by those days of chivalry and Buperstitious truth, in their bearing upon civilized societj at large. We Americans are as much the children of those European ages, as the pre- senl population of 1< Vance or England. The vast extent of the regions over which these ancient monuments are scattered, t he different series of them on the same soil — Druidical, Roman, Gothic, renaissance and modern give one a clearer idea than figures can, of the innumerable throngs of human beings which have 88 A DISSOLVING VIEW. preceded the present tenants of the ground, and so fully stamped the impression of man on the face of the old world. The plains, the hills, the valleys, the cliffs, the bare and massive mountains, the islands, the very caves of those regions, all bear ancient human marks. The plains are crowned by remains of Eoman roads ; the valleys and the islands have been the seat of old monasteries, or perhaps still older villas ; the hills, the cliffs, the mountains, are crowned with the ruined towers of feudal days ; the wild gorges and the caves have been the haunts of banded robbers and outlaws, or of solitary hermits. The caves of the old world, more especially those of the eastern and southern countries, of Syria, Arabia, Egypt, Greece, Italy, have had a strange story of their own. Many of them have been strong- holds, which have stood siege after siege, as for instance those of Pales- tine and Egypt. Others have been the dens of robbers, or pirates. Many, cut in the face of high and apparently inaccessible cliffs, have been used as tombs, and are more or less carved and sculptured within and without ; such are frequently seen in Syria and other parts of Asia. In southern Italy there are many caves in the face of the cliffs of the Apennines, whose openings are plainly seen from the highways in the valleys below ; those were at one time, when Italy was overrun by barbarous heathen nations, the refuge of Christian hermits. Probably the natural caves of those Eastern lands were the first dwellings of their earliest population. Thus it is that there is not in those old c< mntries a single natural feature of the earth upon which man has not set his seal, from the cave of Machpelah to the summit of the Alpine mountain, where the pale gray hues of the distant cross are faintly drawn against the shy. How different from all this is the aspect of our own country! It is true that our fathers, with amazing rapidity, have changed a forest wilderness into a civilized and populous land. But the fresh civiliza- A DISSOLV] \ Q V tBW, 89 tion of America Is whollj differenl in asped from thai of the old world: there is no blending of the old and the new in this country; there is nothing old among us. If we were endowed with ruins we should not preserve them; they would be pulled down to make way for some novelty. A. striking instance of this tendency will befound in the fad thai the lasl hutch house in New-York has disappeared. For a long time a number of those historical way-marks existed in the older parts of the town, bul now, we understand thai the lasl high gable, the lasl Dutch walls, have disappeared froiaNew Amsterdam. We might havesupposed thai occupying so little space as they did, standing in streets with Dutch names, owned perhaps by men of Dutch descent, one, at least, of these relics of our own olden time might have been preserved. But no ; we are the reverse of conservators in this coun- try; it was idle perhaps to expect that a single monument of the origin of the town would be left in place. We are the borderers of civilization in America, but borderers of the nineteenth century, when all distances are lessened, whether moral or physical. And then, a- borderers, we a Km often act as pioneers ; the peculiar tendencies of the age are -ecu more clearly among us than in Europe. The civilization of the present is far more subtle in its cha- racter than that of the past, and its works are naturally like itself, highly influential, and important, but less dignified, and imposing in aspect. It would be comparatively an easy work to remove from the earth all traces of many of the peculiar merits of modern civilization, jusl as the grand Palace of Glass, now standing in London, that brilliant and characteristic work of the day, mighl in a W-w hours be utterly razed. Look at our lighl suspension bridges, marvellous as thej are. how soon they could be destroyed; looh at our railways, at our ships and manufactories moved by steam; look at the marvel- lous ,-le,tric telegraph, at the wonders Daguerre has showed us — 12 90 A DISSOLVING VIEW. look, in fact, at any of the peculiar and most remarkable of the works of the age, and see how speedily all traces of them could be removed. It will be said that the most important of all arts, that of printing, must suffice in itself to preserve all other discoveries : assuredly ; but remove the art of printing, bring fresh hordes of barbarians to sweep over the civilized world, let them busy themselves with the task of destruction, and say then what traces of our works would remain on the face of the earth as monuments of our period. Perchance, as regards America, the chief proofs that eastern civilization had once passed over this country would then he found in the mingled vegetation, the trees, the plants, ay, the very weeds of the old world. We are told by Monsieur Agassiz that, as the surface of the planet now exists, North America is, in reality, the oldest part of the earth. He tells us that in many particulars our vegetation, and our animal life, belong to an older period than those of the eastern hemisphere; he tells us of fossil hickories, and fossil gar-pikes in Europe, while hickories and gar-pikes are now confined to our own part of the world. Rut without doubting this theory, still there are many peculiarities which give to this country an air of youth heyond what is observed in the East. There are man)' parts of Europe, of Asia, of Africa, which have an old, worn-out, exhausted appearance ; sterile moun- tains, unwooded moors, barren deserts and plains. In North America, on the contrary, there is little territory which can be called really sterile. As a general rule, the extent and richness of its forests and its wealth of waters give it naturally a cheerful aspect, while the more rounded forms of the hills and mountains, and their covering of vegetation, leave an impression of youth on the mind, compared with the abrupt, rocky peaks, the smaller streams, and the open unwooded plains of eastern regions. The comparatively slight and fugitive character of American archi- A li I smi |. V I N"G V I E tt . 9 I tecture, no doubt, gives additional force to this impression. Seldom indeed are our edifices imposing. The chief merit of our masonrj and carpentry, especially when taken in the ma—, where the details are not critically examined, is a pleasing character of cheerfulness. It is nol the airj elegance of French or Italian art; it is not the gayetj of the Moorish or Arabesque; it is ye1 too unformed, too undecided to claim a character of its own, but the general air of comfort and thrift which shows itself in mos1 of our dwellings, whether <>n a large or a small scale, gives satisfaction in it- way. Such were the thoughts which came to us as we sat mi the fallen pine, among the October woods, overlooking the country. Before bending our steps homeward we amused ourselves with a sort of game of architectural consequences, the result of the preceding fancies. I had gathered a sprig of wych-hazel, and, waving it over the valley, de- termined to make a trial of its well-established magical power-. No sooner had the forked branch, garnished with its ragged yellow flow- ers, been waved to and fro, than strange work began! The wooden bridge at the entrance of the village fell into the stream and disap- peared; the court-house vanished; the seven taverns were gone; the dozen Stores had felt the spell; the churches Were not -pared; the hundred dwelling-houses shared the same fate, and vanished like the -moke from their own chimneys. Merely razing a village was not, however, our ambition; so we again had recourse to the leafless twig of wych-hazel. Scarcely hail it passed once more over the valley, when we saw a foresl -tart from the earth, the trees in full maturity, of the same variety of species, and in the same stage of autumnal coloring with the woods aboul us. lint even this reappearance of a foresl on the site of the vanished village did not -ati-!\ the whim of the moment. The branch of wych-hazel was again rapidly waved to- wards the four quarters of the heavens, and so great was the agitation a DISS :. " : :•" - view. of the moveineir. th t a numbe] fits ._ - bro- ken 3catl I wind over the country. Perhaps the —oms in 'he power of the spell, for in another moment we beheld tacle which wholly- across Iteration. We d indulging in the wish to have a the valley in the condi- it would h:i - aned, had it lain in the * : European civil- ization during past . - in such a case, would it hav ioned by the hand of man '. To our amazem I - wish v - granted. But it requh - tiny 1 - that this was ind of the village which had la mo- ment earlie:. thing was - -- _ y altered. "We soon vinced that all the natural features of the 1 anained pre is -we had always know:. I arve in the outline of th - change I a knoll was mispla The vegetal - had lone been familiar with, and the _ coloring of the autumnal woods pi what it had in hour earlier. But here all resembla:. sed. Manv of the hills had been ■ wholly shorn of wood. TL f the different farms and that of the buildings was entirely changed. Looking down upon the little town we saw it had dwindled to a mere* hamlet : low, picturesque, that'. ttages were irregularly grouped along a wide gi - -" and about a broad green which formed tih f the village : in this open grassy green stood _ - utifully designed and elaborately carved, doubtless : uument f s past :ieal s small inn, the only tavern, : the green and the c\ - and a 1 s _ swung heavily before the door. The church, the ling in the han.. - evidently very ed a I deal of g ts walls . of hew:. -- and rich window occup: st _ tul spire rose in ii. Two or three small, quiet-] v shops \ DISSOLVING VIE W. 93 sented the trade of the place. The bridge was of massive stone, oar- row, and highlj arched, while the ruin- of a tower >i I close al hand. The fields were parted bj Ledges, which lined the narrow roads on either side. Several country houses were seen in the neigh- borhood, in various grades of importance. There was a pretty thatched cottage, with one large bay window for front, and surrounded bj a gaj flower-garden. Then just withoul the village was a place of some size, evidently an old country house, dating perhaps some six or eight gen- erations back, with its brick walls, quaint chimneys, angles, cornices, and additions ; this place could boast its park, and deer were grazing on the lawn. Yonder in the distance, upon the western shore of the lake, stood a castle of gray stone, its half dozen towers rising a hun- dred feet from tlif hill-side: there were beautiful lawns and broad masses of wood in this extensive domain; the building itself was in good condition, and apparently inhabited. On a pretty point, pro- jecting into the lake about a league from the village, stood a half- ruined convent, now reduced to a mere farm-house. Something whis- pered to as that a Roman road had once passed iii that direction, thai a villa had formerly stood on the same -pot as the Priory, and that ancient coin- were occasionally dug up there. 'The modern highways running through the valley were the most perfect that can he con- ceived. No less than nine different hamlets were in sight from our position on the cliff; two. in addition to the village at our feet, were seated on the, lake-shore; three more were seen clinging to the hill- sides, grouped aboul sites where feudal castles had 31 1 in former time-; another appeared on tin- bank of the river, at a point long used as a ford, and two more occupied different positions in the valley. Prettj graj spire-, or low church towers, were seen rising above of these hamlets. On the farthest hill to the northward, and from it- highest point, the ruin- of an ancient watchtower rose above the wood. ( .»4 A DISSOLVING VIEW. I could cany my observations no further. The yellow flowers of the wych-hazel in my hand had attracted a roving bee, bent appa- rently on improving these List warm days, and harvesting the last drops of honey; the little creature had crept close to a finger, and a sharp sting soon recalled my wandering attention, and caused me to did]) the branch and the bee together. The magic wych-hazel thrown aside, the spell was over; the country had resumed its every-day aspect. THE SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA BY B A Y A i: D T A 1TLOB. There is, perhaps, ao State in the Union which presents a greater variety of landscape than Pennsylvania. This variety does no1 consisl only in the outward configuration of her surface — in the change from mountain to plain, from sterile grandeur to the rich monotony of a level alluvial region — but also in climate, atmosphere, and all those finer influences which arc as the soul to the material forms of Nature. All landscapes, whatever may lie their features, have a distinct indi- viduality, and express a sentimenl of their own. As in .Man, there is no reproduction of the same form or the same peculiar spirit, though in Kelts and broad ranges of scenery — often in entire countries Nature hear- some general distinguishing stamp wherebj the smallesl of her picture- may be recognized. It would Ke difficult to presenl any single landscape as being espe- cially Pennsylvanian. Occupying a central position among the Stat.-, Pennsylvania touches both Kelt- of the temperate zone, embracing within her boundaries varieties of climate ranffinsr between those of ■ Canada and Virginia From the Atlantic tide-water, she crosses the 96 THE SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. broad mountain chain which separates its affluents from those whose union forms the Beautiful River of the West, and from her Lake Erie border looks over to the cold shores of Canada. While she is washed by waters that have been thawed from ice-bound Winnipeg, far away towards the Arctic realm, the streams of half her territory find their way to the zone of the orange and the palm, before they reach the sea. In regard to the general characteristics of her scenery, the State may be divided into three districts : the warm agricultural region, lying in the south-eastern part, between the Susquehanna and the Delaware ; the mountain region, embracing all the ranges of the great Appalachian chain, many of which terminate before they reach the New-York frontier ; and the cool, rolling upland plateau of the north- west, with its lakes, forests, and abundant streams. Each of these regions has a separate character, and while no considerable part of the State is absolutely barren or monotonous, the tourist who tra- verses its whole extent is enchanted with the continual change and picturesque variety of scenery through which he passes. The only localities which have acquired much celebrity beyond the borders of the State, are the Valley of the Juniata River, (a charming glimpse of which is given in the engraving accompanying this sketch,) and the Vale of Wyoming, renowned through Brandt's Massacre and Campbell's poem; though the description of its bold and beautiful landscapes, as given by the transatlantic bard, is more befit- ting one of the rough barrancas of Mexico. The stranger who visits it with that description in his memory, will see no scarlet flamingoes cir- cling through the air, nor thorny aloes hanging from the crevices of the rocks, neither can he murmur the melodious cadences of Outalissi's death-song "on hillocks by the palm-tree overgrown." But the moun- tain rampart of Wyoming is plumed with the northern fir, and the sweel valley, with the Susquehanna in its lap and its foliage of oak, rii E sckx 1:1: v o f PEN \- v i, \ \ \ i \. 07 chesnut, and sycamore, could scarcely fake an additional grace from the aloe or the palm. Yet, because those warm and opulent cham- paigns and those hills veined wiili iron and set on solid foundations of coal, which are the pride of Pennsylvania, are unsung and undescribed, (what part of our country has yet been justly described?) it should not be presumed that the State cannol show many a valley as lair as the mountain-girdled repose of Wyoming, and many a gorge as freshly and wildly beautiful as those through which leap the sparkling waters ill' the Juniata. Most beautiful to our eyes, perhaps because most familiar — more enticing even than the fastnesses of the Alleghanies — is that delightful region lying between them and the Delaware. The mountains, in their passage through the State, deflect gradually from their northern course and curve in the arc of a -rand circle towards its eastern and north-eastern boundary. The firsl ridge rises about forty miles wesl of the Susquehanna, where the river crosses .Mason and Dixon's line. Thence, running northward, it gives place to the Blue Ridge, which has come, with scarcely a break, from its starting-point in the central group of the North Carolina mountain region. Crossing the Susque- hanna near Harrisburg, the Blue Ridge bends away to the north-east, suffering the Schuylkill and Lehigh to slip through its deep gorges, and finally forms the stupendous Water-Gap of the Delaware. Pro- tected from the chill lake-winds by this grand natural barrier and the still higher ridges behind it, and open to the equalizing influence of the neai- Atlantic, this is the richest and most beautiful agricultural district of any of the sea-board States. If. climate is singularly genial and temperate, and the vegetation ^hich covers its softhj undulating hills has something of the rich tints and prodigal luxuriance of the South. The author of Evangeline sings of this region: "There the aii- is all balm and the peach is the emblem of beauty." 13 98 THE SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. The face of the country is diversified with an endless succession of round, open hills, sometimes rising steep and bold from the banks of the rills and rivulets that course through it, sometimes receding so as to form gentle valleys, or spreading into broad upland tracts, rich with forests and pasture fields. Except the Great Valley of Chester, which extends from the Schuylkill to the Conestoga, a distance of forty miles, there are no long reaches of level land, whde there is scarcely a hill which may not be cultivated to its summit. The highest swells south of the Blue Rid^e do not rise more than five hundred feet above the sea-level. Near the mountains the winters are more cold and sharp, but in the southern part but little snow falls, and the autumn frequently stretches its mild reign into December. The great variety and beauty of the native forest-trees gives this region, in sum- mer, an almost tropical wealth of vegetation. The pine, the fir, the ccilar, the hemlock-spruce and the beech come down from the North and clothe the banks of the streams ; the oak, the walnut, the superb tulip-tree, the chesnut, sycamore and linden add their warmer and m< »re luxuriant foliage, and in some sheltered spots the magnolia pours from its snowy goblets a delicious perfume on the airs of early summer. The laurel, towards the end of May, covers whole hill-sides with its crimped pink blossoms, and the crimson rhododendron, scarcely less magnificent than the Cape Azalea, is frequently seen hanging over the clifts of the Schuylkill. At the commencement of June, when the leaves are fully ex- panded and retain their first fresh and beautiful green, the warmth, brightness and richness of the landscapes of this region are the very embodiment of the spirit of Summer. The forests are piled masses of gorgeous foliage, now stretching like a rampart over the hills, now following some winding water-course, and now broken into groves and clumps, dotting the undulations of the grain and grass fields. And THE SCENERY nK PENNSYLVANIA. 99 those fields ! some rolling with the purple waves of the ripe,juicy clover; some silver-gray with rye, or just tinged with yellow where the wheal has leaned to the sun ; or glittering with the lance-like leaves of the Indian corn: — surely there can be no more imposing exhibition of agricultural wealth, even in older and more productive Lands. In the trim, careful beauty of England and the broad garden of the Rhine plain, one sees nothing of this prodigality of bloom and foliaffi — this Luxury of Nature. Here is found almost every variety of scenery which may lie Lad without mountain or prairie. The region is watered by several large streams and their tributaries. In addition to the Schuylkill and Lehigh, which take their rise on the southern slope of the mountains behind Wyoming, there is the Brandywine, made classic by its revolu- tionary memories and deserving of equal renown for the pastoral beauty of its course; the Octorara, a wild and picturesque stream, overhung with bold hills and frequently broken bj rocky barriers ; the Conestoga, watering the agricultural paradise of Lancaster county, and the Swatara, on whose banks the Suabian emigrants might forget their memories of the secluded Fils. Nor are there wanting fitting as- sociations to give the country a deeper interest than it- external beauty ; for nature never speaks to us with a perfect voice till she has received a soul from her connection with Man. The annals of the Re- volution are now old enough to nurture a legend; and what finer personages than Washington, Lafayette and Anthony Wayne on one side, and Howe and Knyphausen on the other I Still further bach we have William Penn, and that wife of his, who sal at the feet of Milton. And this was also the Vinland of Scandinavian Printz, when he brought his vessel, the Key of Calmar, to unlock the portal of a new Swedish Empire in the West. I>ut the natural affection of a sun of this region and an heir of ' 100 THE SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. these memories, lias led me away from the mountains, where we shall find a wholly different sentiment expressed in the scenery. Never rising to such a height as to give the impressions of power and sub- limity which we receive from grander ranges, the Alleghanies still possess a fresh and picturesque beauty of their own. They are never monotonous, even where, as in the southern part of the State, they are drawn into long parallel ridges of level outline, inclosing broad valleys between their bases. The unpruned wildness of the forests with which they are clothed condensates the eye for the absence of cliff, and scar, and spiry pinnacle of naked rock ; while the waters of the Susquehanna and its tributatries, most of which break through them abruptly, at right angles to their course, give a constant variety to their landscapes. The height of the principal chains varies from two to three thousand feet above the sea. In the northern part the mountains are steep and abrupt, with sharp crests, and occasionally a notched and jagged outline. Sharp Mountain, near Pottsville, has along its summit a thin vertical stratum of rock, like a comb or crest, so narrow that one may bestride it in many places. On the other side of the coal-fields, however, and fronting this ridge, rises Broad Moun- tain, whose summit is a nearly level plain. The principal ranges in the south have this latter conformation, and their summits are here and there inhabited and cultivated, though, at such a height above the sea, the crops are necessarily scanty. The old stage route from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh — still travelled by drovers and their herds of Western stock for the markets of the East — is one of the most picturesque highways in the United States. Its course for a hundred miles is over these mountains, crossing valleys from ten to twenty miles in width, and climbing the ridges by straight and slowly ascending lines to the pure atmosphere of the summit plain and the splendid landscape which it commands. Leaving the bewil- THE s < l x ]•: K V OF PENNSYLVANIA. 1 < » 1 dering view behind him, the traveller is soon whirled on to the oppo- site brink, \\ here he loi ks dew d on another hazy realm of streams and forests, villages and embowered homesteads, bounded by another blue and far-stretching rampart, where a white thread, that seems to have Keen dropped slanthj along the side, marks the further course of his journey. But he is allowed no time to revel in the suggestions of thai airy vision; the horses' feel have touched the descending grade ; they break into a headlong gallop and hurl him downwards into the forest. Down, down, like wild steeds let Loose on a prairie; for the stage rolls by its own weight, and there can be no pause in the mad career. The pine spreads out its arms to catch him, but lie shoots past, careless of the dew it dashes in his face. The mountain drops into a cliff and a gulf yawns on one sulo ; the dust of his passage rolls over the brink, hut he does not stay. And so, for miles down that interminable slope, till the horses are reined up, panting and smoking, on the level of the valley. Tin' upper region of the Alleghanies, if it has no such imposing sweeps of landscape and cannot afford such exciting passages of travel, is nioiv broken and rugged. The regularity of the chain ceases ; the mountains are more involved and irregular, and many of the rivers are real labyrinths of scenery, perpetually unfolding in some new and unexpected combination. From the dome of the State House at Ilar- risburg the entrance to the Highlands of the Susquehanna — the gap where the river forces its way through the Blue Ridge, is seen in the distance. Thence, to all the sources of the river and those of all its tributaries, it never h>s ( > s sight of the Alleghanies. They step across it as a harrier and break it into rapids; they run by its side and ti\ to shadow it into insignificance; the)- stretch away and look at it from the horizon ; — hut it is a child of their-, and is never so wild and tree and beautiful a- when in their company. It is not to !»• compared 102 TBE SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. with any foreign river. It is infinitely more grand and inspiring than the Moselle or the Mense ; it is brighter and fresher than the Rhone, and the character of its scenery is totally different. Although the canal-boat has invaded its primitive silence, it is a picturesque innova- tion, and the mountains could not call to each other in a more fitting voice than is given them by the boatman's bugle, pealing through the morning mists. In the heart of the Susquehanna's realm, there are many spots, the record of whose beauty has not yet been wafted over the tops of the mountains that inclose them. Everybody knows the name of Wyo- ming, but few — outside of Pennsylvania, at least — have heard of the Half-Moon Valley in Centre county, or the mountain wildernesses of Clinton and Clearfield ; and though the Juniata, so far as its course has been made the State's highway, is a beaten track, yet its upper waters flow through many a scene of sequestered loveliness. The pre- vailing characteristic of the river is its picturesque beauty, of which the scene chosen by Mr. Tall >ot in the accompanying engraving is an admirable exemplar. Here is nothing grand or aAve-inspiring. The outlines of the mountain in the background, though clearly drawn in the serene air, are soft, graceful and suggestive only of repose ; the nearer crags, though bluff and rude, are mantled with foliage, and the quiet curve of the transparent water, touched with the gleam of a pigmy sail in the distance, whispers of other nooks and more beautiful retreats, far away in the silent solitudes of the hills. The freshness of these scenes has not yet departed ; the dew of the virgin Continent is still moist upon them. The antlered deer track the mazes of their forests and the black bear makes his winter couch in then- deepest and loneliest nooks. Leaving this enchanting region and crossing the wild and half- settled tract, which extends through the counties of Clearfield, Elk THE SCENERY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 103 and Forest — a cold, central table-land, twelve or fifteen hundred feel above the sea -we reach the Northern agricultural district of the State. In its elevation, its frequent lakes, it- innumerable streams, and the general character of its soil, this countrj resembles the Lake district of Central New-York. The vegetation is no longer so warm and luxuriant as on the Delaware; the oak, hemlock and pine supplant the tulip-tree and the linden, and the maize no longer thrusts up such tall spears and shakes such lusty tassels in the breeze. But the region, nevertheless, has a hold, fresh, vigorous beauty of its own. It is inured to cold winds and keen winters, and if its landscapes ever look bleak, it is that bracing bleakness which exhilarates and strengthens. Here our tour is at an end ; we pass the large, clear lakes, most beautiful under a cloudless autumnal sky ; we pass the farms, the trim villages, the pine-crested hills ; and, after leaving the Alleghanies, three days on one of the strong-limbed horses of the country brings as within sight of the silver horizon-line and hearing of the silver surf of Lake Erie. THE INCH LA N I) TERRACE \l!<>\ i; \\ KST POINT. B V N . PA l: K E R W i [/LIS, I NT RODUOTION. There are threi compulsory and unnatural residents in cities, whom the improvements of the age are aboul to se1 at liberty. Bui for the inconveniences of distance, Taste, Study, am> Luxury, would cave never lived wtllingly i n streets. Silently and insensibly, how- ever, differenl parts of the countrj have become as accessible as diffe- rent parts of the (own. It would be 9afe, perhaps, to Baj that every thing thai is within an hour's reach, is sufficiently a1 hand; and Eng- lish rail-trains now travel regularly sixtj miles an hour, fifty miles from New-Yorl$ will soon be uear enough to its amusements, society and conveniences a1 least, for the greater portion of the year ; and, on the day when this fad shall be recognized, New-Yorkers will be ready for a Btartling and mos1 revolutionizing change, \ix: Ihhik* in iln country and lodgings in town, instead of hunt** in town andlodg- in the country. Industry, necessity, or vice, could alone prefer a house in a "block," among disturbances and gutters, to a home unen croached upon, amid fresh air and gardens. Taste, Study, and Luxury, we repeat, are aboul removing to the country. II 106 THE HIGHLAND TEERACE. It will be observed that we anticipate a general preference, only for such rural life as leaves the pleasures and advantages of a city within reach. To be too far in the country, is, for many reasons, a dangerous as well as unpleasant removal from liberalizing and general- izing influences. Its effect on the mind is, perhaps, ultimately, the more important consideration — for it must be a very self-sufficing and anaSsimilating character that does not narrow and grow egotistic with limited associations and intercourse — but its effect on the sensitive- ness as to mental liberty and social position, is sooner to be consider- ed ; for, there is no tyranny like that which is occasionally found in a small village, and no slavery like the efforts sometimes necessary to preserve the good will of small neighborhoods. Country life, even with its best natural charms and advantages, is a doubtful experiment of happiness, unless your main dependence for reciprocity, society and amusements, is beyond the reach of local jealousies and caprices. The great charm of a city is the freedom between neighbors as to any obligation of acquaintance, and the power to pick friends and make visits without fear of offending those not picked nor visited. With the city not farther off than an hour or two hours of locomotion, this privilege can he reasonably and harmlessly asserted in the country; and, with theatres, concerts, galleries of art, churches and promenades also within reach, the advantages of hoth town and country life are combined, while the detects of hoth are modified or avoided. It is with reference to a new era of outer life, therefore — science having so far reduced distance that we may mix town and country life in such proportion as 'pleases us — -that we propose to describe a locality where residence, with this view, would he most desirable for New- Yorker-. 1 II E II 1 G II I. \ \ l> TE RRACE. Id 1 ; DESCRIPTION. Wes1 Point is Nature's Northern Gate to New-York City. A- -""ii as our rail-trains -hall equal those of England, and travel fifty or sixty miles an hour, the Hudson, as far as Wesl Point, will be but a fifty-mile extension of Broadway. The river-banks will have bee e a suburban avenue- -a long street of villas, whose busiest residenl will We content that the City Hall is within an hour of his door. From this metropolitan avenue into the agricultural and rural region, the outlet will lie at the city'- Northern (iate, of West Point — a gate whose threshold divides Sea-board from In-land, and whose mountain pillars were heaved up with the changeless masonry of Creation. The passage through the Mountain-Gate of West Point is a three- mile Labyrinth, whose clue-thread is the channel of the river — a complex wilderness, of romantic picturesqueness and beauty, which will yet lie the teeming Switzerland <>t' our country's Poetrj and Pen- cil and, at the upper and northern outlet of this labyrinthine portal of the city, there is a formation of hill- which has an expression of most apt significance. // loofoslifa a gestun of welcome from Natwe, Km! 1/1/ invitation to />><'/■■ around you ! From the shoulder-like bluff upon the river, an outspreading range of Highlands extend- hack, Ufa flu curvi of a wavvng arm — the single mountain of Shaw angunk, (connected with the range by a vallej like the bend of a graceful w ri-t |, forming fli< liand at tlu extremity. It is of the area within the curve of this bended arm -a Highland Terrace of ten or twelve miles square, on the Wes1 Bani of the river — that we propose to de- line the capabilities, and probable destiny. The Highland Terrace we speak of ten miles square, and lying within the curve of this outstretched arm of mountains ha- an ave- rage level of about one hundred and twenty feel above the river. It 108 THE HIGHLAND TERRACE. was early settled ; and, the rawness of first clearings having long ago disappeared, the well-distributed second ivoods are full grown, and stand, undisfigured by stumps, in park-like roundness and maturity. The entire area of the Terrace contains several villages, and is divided up into cultivated farms, the walls and fences in good condition, the roads lined with trees, the orchards full, the houses and barns suffi- ciently hidden with foliage to be picturesque — ■ the whole neighbor- hood, in fact, within any driving distance, quite rid of the angularity and well-known ungracefuluess of a newly-settled country. Though the Terrace is a ten-mile plain, however, its roads are re- markably varied and beautiful, from the curious multiplicity of deep git ns. These are formed by the many streams which descend from the half-bowl of mountains enclosing the plain, and — their descent being rapid and sudden, and the river into which they empty being one or two hundred feet below the level of the country around — ■ they have gradually worn beds much deeper than ordinary streams, and are, from this and the character of the soil, unusually picturesque. At every mile or so, in driving which way you will, you come to a sudden descent into a richly wooded vale — a bright, winding brook at bot- tom, and romantic recesses constantly tempting to loiter. In a long summer, and with perpetual driving over these ten-mile interlacings of wooded roads and glens, the writer dady found new scenery, and heard of beautiful spots, within reach and still unseen. From every little rise of the road, it must be remembered, the broad bosom of the Hudson is visible, with foreground variously combined and broken; and the lofty mountains, (encircling just about as much scenery as the eye can compass for enjoyment), form an ascending background iably be a centre of attraction quite unequalled. The river-side length of the Terrace is about live miles — Corn- wall at one end and Newbukgii at the other. At both these places there are landings for the steamers, and from both these are steam-ferries to the opposite side of the river, bringing the fine neigh- borhoods of Fishskill and Cold Spring within easy reach. New- burgh is the metropolis of the Terrace — with its city-like markets, hotels, stores, trades and mechanic arts — -an epitome of New- York convenience within the distance of an errand. Downing, one of our most eminent horticulturists, resides here, and Powell, one of the most enterprising of our men of wealth ; and, along one of the high ac- clivities of the Terrace, are the beautiful country seats of Durand, our first landscape painter ; Miller, who has presented the neighborhood with a costly and beautiful church of stone, Verplanck, Sands, and many others whose taste in grounds and improvements adds beauty to the river drive. To the class of seekers for sites of rural residence, for whom we are drawing this picture, the fact that the Terrace is beyond svbv/rban dis- tance from JYew- York, will be one of its chief recommendations. What may be understood as "Cockney annoyances" will not reach it. But it will still be sufficiently and variously accessible from the city. On its own side of the river there is a rail-route from Newburgh to Jersey City, whose first station is in the centre of the Terrace, at "Vail's Gate," and by which New- York will eventually be brought within two hours or less. By the two ferries to the opposite side of r in: ii n, n i. \ \ n i i: i: 1: a o E. I I 1 the river, the stations of the Hudson Railroad are also accessible, brinerinff the citv within equal time on another route. 'I he many boats upon the river, touching a1 the two landings at all hours of daj and night, enable you to varj the journey to and fro, with sleeping, reading, or tranquil enjoyment of the scenery. Friends may come to vim with positive luxury of locomotion, and without fatigue; and the monotonj of access to a place of residence by any one conveyance — an evil verj commonly complained of — is delightfully removed. There is a \er\ important advantage of the Highland Terrace, which we have uot ye1 named. It is tin spot on the Hudson where tlu two greatest thoroughfares of tht North art to cross each other. The intended route from Boston to Lake Erie, here intersects the rail-and- river routes between New-York and Albany. Coming by Plainfield and Hartford to FishMll, it here takes t'eny to Newburgh, and tra- verses the Terrace by the connecting link already completed to the Erie Railroad — thus bringing Boston within six or eight hours of this portion of the river. Western and Eastern travel will then be direct from this spot, like Southern and Northern ; and Albany and New-York, Boston and Buffalo, will be four points, all within reach of an easj excursion. To many, the mosl essential charm of Highland Terrace, however, (as a rural residence in connection with life in New-York), will be the fact that it is the nearest accessible point of compleU inland climate. Medical science tells ns that nothing is more salutary than change from the seaboard to the interior, or from the interior to the seaboard ; and. between these two climates, the ridge of mountains at Wes1 Poinl is the first effectual separation. The raw east winds of the coast, so unfavorable to some con- stitutions, -Avr stopped by this wall of cloud-touching peak-, and, with the rapid facilities of communication between salt and fresh air, 112 THE HIGHLAND TERRACE. the balance can be adjusted without trouble or inconvenience, and as much taken of either as is found healthful or pleasant. The trial of climate which the writer has made, for a long summer, in the neigh- borhood of these mountainous hiding-places of electricity, the improve- ment of health in his own family, and the testimony of many friends who have made the same experiment, warrant him in commending it as a peculiarly salutary and invigorating air. We take pains to specify, once more, that it is to a certain class, in view of a certain new phase of the philosophy of life, that these re- marks are addressed. For those who must be in the city late and early on any and every day, the distance will be inconvenient, unless with unforeseen advances in the rate of locomotion. For those who require the night and day dissipations of New-York, ami who have no resources of their own, a nearer residence might also be more desirable. For mere seekers of seclusion and economy, it is too near the city, and the neighborhood would lie too luxurious. But, for those who have their time in some degree at their own disposal — who have competent means or luxurious independence — who have rural tastes and metropolitan refinements rationally blended — who have families which they wish to surround with the healthful and ele- gant belongings of a home, while, at the same time, they wish to keep pace with the world, and enjoy what is properly and only enjoyable in the stir of cities — for this class — the class, as we said before, made up of Leisure, llefinemeut and Luxury — modern and recent changes are preparing a new theory of what is enjoyable in life. It is a mix- ture of city and country, with the home in tlte country. And the spot with the most advantages for the first American trial of this new com- bination, is, we venture confidently to record, the HIGHLAND terrace encircled in the extended arm of the mountains a hove West Point. WA-W A -VAN -I) A II LAKE, NEW JERSEY. (C RO PS ET.) W \-\\ \-van-daii Lake is situated on the Wa-wa-yan-dah Mountains, in tli,' township of Vernon, Sussex county, New Jersey, about three and a half miles from the boundary between New York and .New Jersey, and about two miles from the line between Sussex and Passaic coun- ties. The word "Wa-wa-yan-dah," in the Indian language, means " Winding Stream," so that both the lake and the mountain derive their name from this — the Lake and Mountain of the Winding Stream. The outlel of the lake after winding in various directions empties in the Wall-kill. The lake is called by the settlers on the mountain, the "Double Pond," from the fact that an island nearly separates it into two ponds; the water i> of greal depth, \'r<\ bj cold springs, and produces \ erj tine trout. An old man, named Jeremiah Edes, who formerly Lived near the Lake, tells of an old German, who came there with a tradition handed down to him fr his grandfather, that a win of precious ore existed near a lake, which answered to the description of this one; which ore he was to seek for between four t rees, near the hank ; that he, Edes, I 114 WA-WA-YAN-DAII LAKE. assisted tlie German in his search, which after several months resulted in the discovery of some shining metal, of which the German took several lumps back to Germany, after carefully hiding the spot, and binding Edes, by a solemn oath, not to reveal the place. The lake is about one mile in extent, either way — it is about fif- teen miles from the Chester Depot of the New York and Erie Rail- road, and is usually visited from this place or from Greenwood Lake. To the above description, kindly furnished by a friend, we add an extract from a letter from Mr. Cropsey, the artist whose picture we have copied : — " The country is mountainous and covered mostly by forests ; but the little ridges and valleys that he between the mountains are culti- vated ; farmhouses dot them here and there, amid apple orchards and luxuriant meadows — brooks wind through the meadows or ' linger with many a fall' down the wooded hill-side, sustaining here and there a mill, and then loosing themselves in some swamp, or spreading out in some placid little lake or pond. All the country, as I passed along, was highly picturesque, possessing to a great extent the wild beauty of the Catskill and White Mountain country, combined with the tame and cultivated Orange county, next which it lies. "Near the lake, and supplied by its water, is an iron work with a pretty clearing in the woods around — with numerous neat little cottages for the workmen — a store — the manager's house, and all that kind of incident that indicates a new-made but flourishing place. Upon the high ground near by, and near where my view was taken, can be seen beyond the Sha-wan-gunk Mountains the Catskills, and from another position not far distant is distinctly seen Mount Adam and Mount Eve." OVER THE MOUNTAINS, 01! THE WESTERN PIONEER. BY II i: N l; y T. T U C K E R M A N . The peculiar beauty of American mountains is rather incidental than intrinsic; we seldom gaze upon one with the delight awakened by an individual charm, 1 ait usually <>ii account of its grand effect as part of a vasl landscape. Our scenery is on so large a scale as to yield sub- lime rather than distinct impressions; the artist feels that it is requi- site to -elect and combine the materials afforded by uature, in order to produce an effective picture; ami although our countiy is unsurpassed in bold and lovely scenes, no ordinary patience and skill are needed to choose adequate subjects for the pencil. The outline of the moun- tains i- almost invariably rounded ; the peaks of Alpine summits ami the graceful linear curves of die Apennines render them far more pic- turesque. A- we stand on the top of Mount Washington, or the Cat- skill-, the very immensity of the prospect renders it too vague for the limner; it inspires the imagination more frequently than it satisfies the eye. Indeed, general effect is the characteristic of American sce- ner\ ; the levels are diffused into apparently boundless prairies, and the elevations spread in grand bu1 monotonous undulations ; only here 116 OVER THE MOUNTAINS. and there a nook or a ridge, a spur, a defile or a cliff, forms the nucleus for an impressive sketch, or presents a cluster of attractive features limited enough in extent to be aptly transferred to canvas. " High mountains are a feeling;" hut here it is liable to be expansive rather than intense. The AHeghanies stretch inimitably, and, as it were, beckon forward the enthusiastic wanderer, while the Alps visibly soar and lure him upward ; amid the latter he has but to look through the circle of his hand to behold a picture, while the former awaken a sense of the undefined and limitless, and thus break up continually the per- ception of details. It is remarkable, however, that about the centre of the range, where it intersects the western part of North Carolina, the summits are peaked like the Alps, and are disposed waywardly like the Apennines. Here, too, the French Broad river, as it winds along the turnpike for the distance of forty miles, although not navi- gable, is highly picturesque on account of its numerous rapids and the bluffs that line its course ; and, while the autumnal frost jn'oduces no such gorgeous tints in the foliage around as make the western woods radiant with crimson and gold, the profusion and variety of the ever- greens, render the winter landscape far more attractive. A similar discrepancy attaches to the moral ass< >eiation of moun- tains at home and abroad. We follow the track of invading hosts as we cross the Alps, and are thus haunted by memorable events in the history of civilization amid the most desolate heights of nature; every fastness of the Apennines has its legend of Scythian, Gaul, or Roman, and each base its Etrurian sepulchre. The chief moral interest belong- ing to the AHeghanies is that derived from the fact that they consti- tute the natural boundary of the old and new settlements of the conti- nent. The memory of the Indian, the hunter, and especially the pio- neer, consecrate their names; and as Ave contemplate a view taken at the picturesque locality before alluded to, and illustrated by the an- OVER I II I. MOUNTAINS. I 1 7 nexed landscape, we naturally revert to the brave and original man who thence wenl " over the mountains," to clear a pathway, build a lodge, and found a Stale in the wilderness. There hung, for many months, on the walls of the Art-Union gal- lerj in New-York, a picture bj Ranney, so thoroughly national in its subject and true to nature in its execution, that it was refreshing to contemplate it, after being wearied with far more ambitious yet less successful attempts. It represented a flat ledge of rock, the summit of a high cliff thai projected over a rich, umbrageous country, upon which a band of hunters leaning on their rifles, were gazing with looks of delighted surprise. The foremost, a compact and agile, though not \ei_\ commanding figure, is pointing out the landscape to his comrades, with an air of exultant yet calm satisfaction ; the wind lifts his thick hair from a brow full of energy and perception; his loose hunting shirt, his easy attitude, the fresh brown tint of his cheek, and an in- genuous, cheerful, determined yet benign expression of countenance, proclaim the hunter and pioneer, the Columbus of the woods, the foresl philosopher and brave champion. The picture represents Daniel Boone discovering to his companions the fertile levels of Ken- tucky. This remarkable man, although he does not appear to have originated any great plans or borne the responsibility of an appointed leader in the warlike expeditions in which he was engaged, possessed one of those rarebj balanced natures, and that unpretending efficiency of character which, though seldom invested with historical promi- nence, abound in personal interest. Without political knowledge, he sustained an infant settlement; destitute of a military education, he proved one of the most formidable antagonists the Indians ever en- countered; with no pretensions to a knowledge of civil engineering, he laid out the firsl road through the wilderness of Kentucky ; unfa- miliar with books, he reflected deeply and attained to philosophical 118 OVEll THE MOUNTAINS. convictions that yielded him equanimity of mind ; devoid of poetical expression, he had an extraordinary feeling for natural beauty, and described his sensations and emotions, amid the wild seclusion of the forest, as prolific of delight ; with manners entirely simple and unob- trusive, there was not the least rudeness in his demeanor ; and relent- less in fight, his disposition was thoroughly humane ; his rifle and his cabin, with the freedom of the woods, satisfied his wants ; the sense of insecurity in which no small portion of his life was passed, only rendered him circumspect ; and his trials induced a serene patience and fortitude ; while his love of adventm'e was a ceaseless inspiration. Such a man forms an admirable progenitor in that nursery of character — the West ; and a fine contrast to the development elsewhere induced by the spirit of trade and political ambition ; like the rudely sculp- tured calumets picked up on the plantations of Kentucky- — memorials of a primitive race, whose mounds and copper utensils yet attest a people antecedent to the Indians that fled before the advancing settle- ments of Boone — his character indicates for the descendants of the hunters and pioneers, a brave, independent and noble ancestry. Thus, as related to the diverse forms of national character in the various sections of the country, as well as on account of its intrinsic attractiveness, the western pioneer is an object of peculiar interest ; and the career of Boone is alike distinguished for its association with romantic adventure and historical fact. A consecutive narrative however would yield but an ineffective picture of his life as it exists in the light of sympathetic reflection. The pioneer, like the mariner, alternates between long uneventful periods and moments fraught with excitement ; the forest, like the ocean, is mo- notonous as well as grand ; and its tranquil beauty, for weeks together, may not be sublimated by terror; yet in both spheres there is an undercurrent of suggestive life, and when the spirit of conflict and V E i: Til E MOD \ T A INS. | |'.i vigilance sleeps, that of contemplation is often alive. Perhaps it is this very successi I' " moving accident-" ami lonely quiet, of solemn repose and intense activity, that constitute- the fascination which the sea and the wilderness possess for imaginative minds. They appeal at once t<> poetical and heroic instincts; and these arc more fre- quently combined in the same individual, than we usually suppose. Before attempting to realize the characteristics of Boone in their unity, we musl note the salient points in his experience; and this is best done by revi\ ing a tew scene, which t\ pity the w hole drama. It is midnight in the forest; and, through the interstices of its thickly woven branches, pale moonbeams glimmer on the emerald sward. The only sounds that break upon the brooding silence, are an occasional gust of wind amid the branches of the loftier trees, the hoot- ing of an owl, and, sometimes, the wild crj of a beast disappointed of hi- prey, or scared by the dusky figure of a savage on guard at a watch-fire. Besides its glowing embers, and leaning against the huge trunk of a gigantic hemlock. -it two -ills whose complexion and habili- ments indicate their Anglo-Saxon origin; their hands are clasped together, and one appears to sleep as her head rests upon her com- panion's shoulders. They are very pale, and an expression of anxiety i- evident in tin' very firmness of their resigned looks. A slight rustle in the thick undergrowth near their camp, causes the Indian sentinel to rise quickly to hi- feet and peer in the direction of the sound; a moment after he leaps up, with a piercing shout, and falls Meed in-- upon the ground, while the crack of a rifle echoes through the wood; iji an instant twenty [ndians spring from around the fire, raise the war-whoop, ami brandish their tomahawks ; bu1 three or four in- Btantly drop before the deadly aim of the invaders, several run howl- ing with pain into the depths of the forest, and the remainder set oil' on an opposite trail. Then calmly, but with an earnest joy, revealed 120 OVER THE MOUNTAINS. 1 'V the dying flames upon his features, a robust, compactly knit figure, moves with a few hasty strides towards the females, gazes eagerly into their faces, lifts one in his arms and presses her momently to Lis breast, gives a hasty order, and his seven companions with the three in their midst, rapidly retrace their way over the tangled brushwood and amid the pillared trunks, until they come out, at dawn, upon a clearing, studded with enormous roots, among which waves the tasselled maize, beside a spacious log-dwelling surrounded by a palhsade ; an eager, tearful group rush out to meet them; and the weary and hungry band arc -nun discussing their midnight adventure over a substantial break- fast < >f same. Thus Boone rescued his daughter and her friend when they were taken captive by the Indians, within sight of his primitive dwelling ; — an incident which illustrates more than pages of descrip- tion, how closely pioneer presses upon savage life, and with what peril civilization encroaches upon the domain of nature It is the dawn of a spring day in the wildernes> ; as >teals the gray pearly light over the densely waving tree-tops, an eagle majestically rises from a withered bough, and floats through the silent air, beeoru- ing a mere speck on the >ky ere he disappears over the distant moun- tain- ; dew-drops are condensed on the green threads of the pine and the swollen buds of the hickory; pale bulbs and spears of herbage shoot from the black loam, amid the decayed leaves : in the inmo>t re- cesses of the wood, the rabbit's tread is audible, and the chirp of the squirrel; as the sunshine expand-, a thousand notes of birds at work on their nest-, invade the solitude ; tin.' bear fearlessly laps the running stream, and the elk turn- hi- graceful head from the pendant branch he is nibbling, at an unusual sound from the adjacent cane-brake; it is a lonely man rising from his night slumber; with his blanket on In- arm and his rifle grasped in one hand, he approaches the brook and bathes his head and neck; then glancing around, turns aside the in- V B i: I Hi: MOUNTAINS. 1 2 I terwoven thickets near by, and climbs a stony mound shadowed bj a fine clump of oaks, where stands an humble bu1 substantial cabin ; be lights a fire upon the flat stone before the entrance, kneads a cake of maize, while bis venison steak is broiling, and carefully examines the priming of his rifle; the meal dispatched with a hearty relish, he closes the door of bis lodge, and saunters through the wilderness; bis eye roves from the wild flower at his feet, to the cliff that looms afar off; he pauses in admiration before some venerable sylvan monarch, watches the bounding stag: his intrusion has disturbed, or cuts a little spray from the sassafras with the knife in bis girdle; as the sun rises higher, he penetrates deeper into the vast and beautiful forest ; each form of vegetable life, from the enormous fungi to the delicate vine- wreath, the varied structure of the trees, the cries and motions of the wild animals and birds, excite in his mind a delightful sense of infinite power and beauty; he feels, as be walks, in every nerve and vein the "glorious privilege of being independent;" reveries that bathe his soul in a tranquil yet lofty pleasure, succeed each other; and the sighl of seme lovely vista induces him to lie down upon a heap of dead leaves and lose himself in contemplation. Weariness andhunger, or the deepening gloom of approaching night, at length warn him to retrace his steps; on the way, he shoots a wild turkey for his supper, sits over the watch-fire, beneath the solemn firmamenl of stars, and recalls the absent and loved through the first watches of the night. .Months have elapsed since he has thus lived alone in the wilderness, his brother having left him to seek ammunition and pro- vision at distant settlements. Despondency, for awhile, rendered his loneliness oppressive, km such is his love of nature and freedom, his zest for life in the woods and a natural self-reliance, that gra- dually he attains a degree of happiness which De Foe's hero might have envied. Nature is a benign mother, and whispers consoling 1(5 1 2 2 < ) V E R T II E M O U N T A I N S . secrets to attentive ears, and mysteriously clieers the heart of her pine votaries who truthfully cast themselves on her bosom. Not thus serenely however glides away the forest life of our pioneer. He is jealously watched by the Indians, upon whose hunting-grounds he is encroaching; they steal upon his retreat and make him captive, and in this situation a new phase of his character exhibits itself. The soul that lias been in long and intimate communion with natural grandeur and beauty, and learned the scope and quality of its own resources, gains self-possession and foresight. The prophets of old did not resort to the desert iii vain; and the bravery and candor of hunters and sea- men is partly the result of the isolation and hardihood of their lives. Boone excelled as a sportsman; lie won the respect of his savage captors by his skill and fortitude; and more than once, without vio- lence, emancipated himself, revealed their bloody schemes to his couu- trymen, and met them on the battle-field, with a coolness and celerity that awoke their intense astonishment. Again and again, he saw his companions fall before their tomahawks and rifles; his daughter, as we have seen, was stolen from his very door, though fortunately rescued ; his son fell before his eyes in a conflict with the Indians who opposed their emigration to Kentucky; his brother and his dearest friends were victims either to their strategy or violence ; his own immunity is to lie accounted for by the influence he had ac- quired over his foes, which induced them often to spare his life — an in- fluence derived from the extraordinary tact, patience, and facility of action, which his experience and character united to foster. Two other scenes of his career are requisite to the picture. On the banks of the Missouri river, less than forty years ago, there stood a few small rude cabins in the shape of a hollow square; in one of these, the now venerable figure of the gallant hunter is listlessly stretched upon a couch; a slice of buck twisted on the ramrod of his <> V E i: T II K MOUNTAINS. 1 23 rifle, is roasting by the fire, within reach of his hand; he is -till alone, luit the surrounding cabins arc occupied by his thriving descendants. The vital energies of the pioneer are gradually ebbing away, thoi his thick wliitc lucks, well-knit frame, and the light of his keen eye, evidence the genuineness and prolonged tenure of his life. Over- matched l'\ the conditions of the land law in Kentucky, and annoyed by the march of civilization in the regions he had known in their primitive beauty, he had wandered here, far from the state he founded and the haunts of his manhood, to die with the same adventurous and independent spirit in which he had lived. Tie occupied some of the irksome hours of confinement incident to age, in polishing his own cherrywood coffin ; and it is said lie was found dead in the woods at last, a tew rods from his dwelling. I >n an autumn day, six years since, a hearse might have keen seen winding up the main street of Frankfort, Kentucky, drawn by white horses, and garlanded with evergreens. The pall-bearers comprised some of the most distinguished men of the state. It was the second funeral of Daniel Boone. By an act of the legislature, his remains were removed from the banks of the Missouri to the public cemeterj of the capitol of Kentucky, and there deposited with every ceremonial of respeci and love. This oblation was in the highest degree just and appropriate, for the name of Boone is identified with the state he originally explored, and his character associates itself readily with that of her people and scenery. No part of the countrj is i 'e individual in these respects than Kentucky. As the word imports, it was at once the hunting and battle-ground of savage tribes for centuries; and not until the middle of the eighteenth century , was it well-known to Anglo-Saxon explorers. The elk and buffalo held undisputed possession with the Indian ; its dark forests served a- a contested boundary between the Cherokees, 124 nVEl! THE MOUNTAINS. Creeks and Catawbas of tlie South, and the Shawnees, Delawares and Wyandots of the North ; and to these inimical tribes it was indeed " a dark and bloody ground." Unauthenticated expeditions thither we hear of before that of Boone, but with his first visit the history of the region becomes clear and progressive, remarkable for its rapid and steady progress and singular fortunes. The same year that Independ- ence was declared, Virginia made a county of the embryo state, and forts scattered at intervals over the face of the country, alone yielded refusre to the colonists from their barbarian invaders. In 1778, Du Qnesne, with his Canadian and Indian army, met with a vigorous re- pulse at Boonesborough ; in 1778, occurred Roger Clark's brilliant ex- pedition against the English forts of Vincennes ami Kaskaskias ; and the next year, a single blockhouse — the forlorn hope of advancing civilization — was erected by Robert Patterson where Lexington now stands; soon after took place the unfortunate expedition of Col. Bow- man against the Indians of Chilicothe ; and the Virginian legislature passed the celebrated land law. This enactment neglected to provide for a general survey at the expense of the government ; each holder of a warrant located therefore at pleasure, and made his own survey ; yet a special entry was required by the law in order clearly to de- signate boundaries; the vagueness of many entries rendered the titles null; those of Boone and men similarly unacquainted with legal writing, were, of course, destitute of any accuracy of description ; and hence interminable perplexity, disputes and forfeitures. The imme- diate consequences of the law, however, was to induce a flood of emigration; and the fever of land speculation rose and spread to an unexampled height; to obtain patents for rich lands became the ruling passion ; and simultaneous Indian hostilities prevailed — so that Ken- tucky was transformed, all at once, from an agricultural and hunting region thinly peopled, to an arena where rapacity and war swayed a VEE I II E M OUNTAINS. 1 l'< vasl multitude. The conflicts, law-suits, border adventures, and per- sonal feuds growing out of this condition of affairs, would yield memo- rable themes, without number, for the annalist. To lliis epoch suc- ceeded "a labyrinth of conventions." The position of Kentucky was anomalous; the appendage <>l' ;i state unable to protecl her frontier from savage invasion; her future prosperity in a greal measure de- pendent upon the glorious riser thai bounded her domain, and the United States governmenl already proposing to yield the righl of its navigation to a foreign power; separated by the Alleghany mountains from the populous and cultivated East; and the tenure by which estates were held within its limits quite unsettled, it is scarcely to be wondered at, that reckless political adventurers began to look upon Kentucky as a promising sphere for their intrigues. Without advert- ing to anj particular instances, or renewing the inquiry into the mo- tives of prominent actors in those scenes, it is interesting to perceive lmw entirely the intelligence and honor of the people triumphed over selfish ambition and cunning artifice. Foreign governments and domestic traitors failed in their schemes to alienate the isolated state from the growing confederacy ; repulsed as she was again and again in her attempts to secure constitutional freedom, she might have said to the parent government, with the repudiated "lady wedded to the Moor" — " LJnkindness may '1" much, And your unkinduess may achieve my life, I'.ui never taurl mj love." Kentucky was admitted into the Union on the fourth of Febru- ary, 1791. From this outline of her history, we can readily perceive how rich ami varied was the material whence has sprung the Western charac- ter; its highest phase is doubtless to be found in Kentucky ; and, in l'2(j OVEE THE MOUNTAINS. our view, best illustrates American in distinction from European civilization. In the North this is essentially modified by the cosmopo- lite influence of the seaboard, and in the South, by a climate which assimilates her people with those of the same latitudes elsewhere; but in the West, and especially in Kentucky, we find the foundation of social existence laid by the hunters — whose love of the woods, equality of condition, habits of sport and agriculture, and distance from con- ventionalities, combine to nourish independence, strength of mind, candor, and a fresh and genial spirit. The ease and freedom of social intercourse, the abeyance of the passion for gain, and the scope given to the play of character, accordingly developed a race of noble apti- tudes ; and we can scarcely imagine a more appropriate figure in the foreground of the picture than Daniel Boone, who embodies the honesty, intelligence, and chivabric spirit of the state. With a popu- lation descended from the extreme sections of the land, from emi- grants of New-England as well as Virginia and North Carolina, and whose immediate progenitors were chiefly agricultural gentlemen, a generous and spirited character might have been prophesied of the natives of Kentucky ; and it is in the highest degree natural for a peo- ple thus descended and with such habits, to cling with entire loyalty to their parent government, and to yield, as they did, ardent though injudicious sympathy to France in the hour of her revolutionary crisis. Impulsive and honorable, her legitimate children belong to the aris- tocracy of nature ; without the general intellectual refinement of the Atlantic states, they possess a far higher physical development and richer social instincts ; familiar with the excessive development of the religious and political sentiments, in all varieties and degrees, their views are more broad though less discriminate than those entertained in older communities. The Catholic from Maryland, the Puritan from Connecticut, and the Churchman of Carolina, amicably flourish to- gether; and the conservative and fanatic are alike undisturbed ; the (i V E i: I II K M01 N I A INS. 1-7 convenl and the camp-meeting being, often within sighl of each other, equally respected. Nature, too, has been as Libera] as the social elements in endowing Kentucky with interesting associations. That mysterious fifteen miles of subterranean wonders known as the Mammoth Cave, its wonderful architecture, fossil remains, nitrous atmosphere, echoes, fish with only tli«' rudimenl of an optic nerve, — its chasms and cataracts -is one of the most remarkable objects in the world. The boundaries of the state arc unequalled in beauty; on the east the Laurel Ridge or Cum- berland Mountain, and on the wesl the Father of Waters. In native trees she is peculiarly rich — the glorious magnolia, the prolific sugar- tree, the laurel and the buckeye, the hickory and honey locust, the mulberry, ash, and flowing catalpa, attest in every village and road- side, the sylvan aptitudes of the soil; while the thick buffalo grass and finesl crown-imperial in the world, clothe it with a lovehj garni- ture. The blue limestone formation predominates, and its grotesque cliffs and caverns render much of the geological scenery peculiar and interesting. The lover of the picturesque and characteristic, musi often regrel that artistic and literarj genius has not adequately preserved the origi- nal local and social features of our own primitive communities. Facility of intercourse and the assimilating influence of trade are rapidly bring- ing the traits and tendencies of all parts of the country to a common level : yet in the natives of each section in whom strong idiosyncrasies have kept intact the original bias of character, we find the most striking and suggestive diversity. According to the glimpses afforded us bj tradition, letters, and a few meagre biographical data, the early settlers of Kentucky united to the simplicity and honesty of the New-York colonists, a high degree of chivalric feeling; there was an heroic vein induced by familiarity with danger, the necessity of mutual protection ami the healthful excitement of the chase. The absence of an} marked L28 ( ) V E R T 1 1 E MOUNTAINS. distinction of birth or fortune, and the high estimate placed upon society by those who dwell on widely separated plantations, caused a remarkably cordial, hospitable and warm intercourse to prevail, almost unknown at the North and East. Family honor was cherished with peculiar zeal; and the women accustomed to equestrian exercises and 1 >r< »ught up in the freedom and isolation of nature — their sex always re- spected and their charms thoroughly appreciated — acquired a spirited and cheerful development quite in contrast to tin- subdued, uniform tone of those educated in the commercial towns ; their mode of life natu- rally generated self-reliance and evoked a spirit of independence. Most articles in use were of domestic manufacture; slavery was more patriarchal in its character than in the other states; the practice of duelling, with its inevitable miseries, had also the effect to give a cer- tain tone to social lite rarely witnessed in agricultural districts; and the Kentucky gentleman was thus early initiated into the manly qualities of a Nimrod and the engaging and reliable one of a man of honor and gallantry — in its best sense. It is to circumstances like these that we attribute the chivalric spirit of the state. She was a somewhat wild member of the confederacy — a kind of spoiled younger child, with the faults and the virtues incident to her age and fortunes ; nerved by long vigils at the outposts of civilization, — the wild cat in- vading her first school-houses and the Indians her scattered cornfields, —and receiving little parental recognition from the central govern- ment, — with a primitive loyalty of heart, she repudiated the intrigues of Genet and Burr, and baptized her counties for such national patriots as Fulton and Gallatin. Passing through a fiery ordeal of Indian warfare, the fever of land speculation, great political vicissitude, unusual legal perplexities, imperfect legislation, and subsequently entire financial derangement, — she has yet maintained a progressive and individual attitude; and seems to us, in her most legitimate specimens of character, more satisfactorily to represent the national V K i: T HE M o I NT A. INS. L29 type, than anj other state. Her culture has qoI been as refined, nor her social spirit as versatile and elegant as in older communities, but a raciness, hardihood and genial freshness of nature have, for those verj reasons, more completely survived; as a region whence to transplant or graft, it' we maj applj horticultural terms to humanity, Kentuckj is a rich garden. Nor have these distinctions ceased to be. JI\ knocking ofi 7 the bark immediately beneath, kill- ing him by the concussion. The union of beauty and terror in the life of a pioneer, of so much natural courage and thoughtfulness as Boone, is one of its most significant features. We have followed his musing steps through the wide, umbrageous solitudes he loved, and marked the contentment he experienced in a log-hut and by a camp tire; but over this attractive picture there ever impended the shadow of peri] — in the form of ;i stealthy and cruel foe, the wolf, disease, and exposure to the element-. Enraged at the invasion of their ancient hunting-grounds, the Indians hovered near; while asleep in the jungle, following the plough, or at his frugal meal, the pioneer was liable to he shot down \<\ an unseen rifle, and surrounded by an 132 OVER THE MOUNTAINS. ambush ; from tlie tranquil pursuits of agriculture, at any moment, he niight be summoned to the battle-field, to rescue a neighbor's property or defend a solitary outpost. The senses become acute, the mind vigi- lant, and the tone of feeling chivalric under such discipline. That life has a peculiar dignity, even in the midst of privation and however de- void of refined culture, which is entirely self-dependent both for sus- tainment and protection. It has, too, a singular freshness and anima- tion the more genial from I icing naturally inspired. Compare the spasmodic efforts at hilarity, the forced sjieech and hackneyed expres- sion of the fashionable drawing-room, with the candid mirth and gal- lant spirit bom of the woodland and the chase; — the powerful sinews and well-braced nerves of the. pioneer with the languid pulse of the metropolitan excpiisite ; — and it seems as if the fountain of youth still bubbled up in some deep recess of the forest. Philosophy, too, as well as health, is attainable in the woods, as Shakespeare has illustrated in " As You Like It ;" and Boone by his example and habitual senti- ments. He said to his brother, when they had lived for months in the yet unexplored wilds of Kentucky, " You see how little human nature requires. It is in our own hearts rather than in the things around us, that we are to seek felicity. A man may be happy in any state. It only asks a perfect resignation to the will of Providence." It is re- markable that the two American characters which chiefly interested Byron, were Patrick Henry and Daniel Boone — the one for his gift of oratory, and the other for his philosophical content — both so directly springing from the resources of nature. There is an affinity between man and nature which conventional habits keep in abeyance but do not extinguish. It is manifested in the prevalent taste for scenery, and the favor so readily bestowed upon its graphic delineation in art or literature ; but in addition to the poetic love of nature, as addressed to the sense of beauty, or that ardent \ \: i: 'i ii k MOUNTAINS. 1 33 curiosity to explore it- laws and phenomena which finds expression in natural science, there is an instincl thai Leads to a keen relish of nature in her primeval state, and a facility in embracing the Life she offers in her wild and solitary haunts ; a feeling that seems to have survived the influences of civilization and developes, when encouraged, by the inevitable law of animal instinct. It is not uncommon to meet with this passion lor nature among those whose lives have been devoted to objects apparently alien to its existence; sportsmen, pedestrians, and citizens of rural propensities, indicate its modified action, while it is more emphatically exhibited by the volunteers who join caravans to the Rocky -Mountains, the deserts of the East and the forests of Central and South America, with no ostensible purpose bu1 Hie gratification arising from intimate contact with nature in her luxu- riant or barren solitudes. To one having but an inkling of this sympathy, with a nervous organization and an observant mind, there is, indeed, no restorative of the frame or sweet diversion to the mind like a day in the woods. The etfeet of roaming a treeless plain or riding over a cultivated region is entirely different. There is a certain tranquillity and balm in the foresl that heals and calms the fevered spirit and quickens the Languid pulses of the weary and disheartened with the breath of hope. lt> influence on the animal spirits is remarkable; and the senses, released fr the din ami monotonous limits of streets and houses, luxuriate in the breadth of vision and the rich variety of form, hue and odor which onl\ scenes like these afford. A.S you Walk in the shadow of l,it't\ trees, the repose and aw e of hearts that breathe from a sacred temple, gradually lull- the tide of care and exalts despondency into worship. A- your eye tracks the flickering lighl glancing upon the herbage, it brightens to recognize the wild-flowers that are associated with the innocent enjo\ ments of childhood ; to note the delicate blossom of the 134 OVER THE MOUNTAINS. wild hyacinth, see the purple asters wave in the breeze, and the scarlet ) terries of the winter-green glow among the dead leaves, or mark the circling flight of the startled crow and the sudden leap of the squirrel. You pause unconsciously to feel the springy velvet of the moss-clump, pluck up the bulb of the broad-leaved sanguinaria, or examine the star- like flower of the liverwort, and then lifting your gaze to the canopy beneath which you lovingly stroll, greet as old and endeared acquaint- ances the noble trees in their autumn splendor, — the crimson dogwood, yellow hickory or scarlet maple, whose brilliant hues mingle and glow in the sunshine like the stained windows of an old gothic cathedral ; and you feel that it is as true to fact as to poetry that "the groves were God's first temples." Every fern at your feet is as daintily carved as the frieze of a Grecian column ; every vista down which you look, wears more than Egyptian solemnity; the withered leaves rustle like the sighs of penitents, and the lofty tree-tops send forth a voice like that of prayer. Fresh vines encumber aged trunks, solitary leaves quiver slowly to the earth, a twilight hue chastens the brightness of noon, and, all around, is the charm of a mysterious quietude and seclusion that induces a dreamy and reverential mood ; while health seems wafted from the balsamic pine and the elastic turf, and over all broods the serene blue firmament. If such refreshment and inspiration are obtainable from a casual and temporary visit to the woods, we may imagine the effect of a length- ened sojourn in the primeval forest, upon a nature alive to its beauty, wildness and solitude ; and when we add to these, the zest of adventure, the pride of discovery and that feeling of sublimity which arises from a consciousness of danger always impending, it is easy to realize in the experience of a pioneer at once the most romantic and practical ele- ments of life. In our own history, rich as it is in this species of adventure, no individual is so attractive and prominent as Daniel OVEE THE MOUNTAINS. 135 Boone. The singular anion in his character of benevolence and hardi- hood, hold activity and a meditative disposition, the hazardous enter- prises and narrow escapes recorded of him, and the resolute tact he displayed in all emergencies, arc materials quite adequate to a thrilling narrative; 1 nit when we add to the external phases of interest, that absolute passion for forest life which distinguished him, and the identity of hi- name with the earlj fortunes of the West, he seems to combine the essentia] features of a. genuine historical and thoroughly individual character. W EST ROC Iv, NEW II AVE X II Y M AMY E . FIELD. Conspicuous among the lovely places of New England is the elm- shaded city of New Haven. It is a city by virtue of its population and municipal regulations; but its rural appearance, — neat, unpre- tending homes, with their pleasant court-yards and tasteful gardens, open squares and streets overarched with trees, make one hesitate to give it a name associated with glare, and dust, and noise. 'Hie waters of Long Island Sound flow softly to its feet, and in the haven thus formed the mariner finds shelter from outside storms. The town is situated on a plain which opens northward into a beautiful valley, whose guarding hill-sides terminate in two rocky heights. When seen from the harbor below, these eminences seem near the city, and look like the sides of some huge portal thrown open in welcome to the traveller. They are known as East and West bock. It is one of these prominent and most picturesque objects, which the artist has chosen for hi- beautiful picture. How truthful are its outlines when compared with the scene in memory, daguerreotj ped there in those 18 138 W EST ROOK. summer days when the student goes to the woods with his books, — when the angler lies idle 1>\ the brook, — and the poet dreams to a tuneful measure as he gazes on the outline of hills, or watches the clouds which rest over them. There is the hold, red rock, a columned wall, — seamed and scarred, and piled up hall' its height with fragments of stone. There gleams a village spire above the trees; there are the river and meadow shadowed by summer clouds, and there the hay- makers gather their fragrant harvest. Bui West Rock has another interest. The artist here gives us not oul\ a beautiful and well-known scene, hut illustrates a passage in colonial history. That rugged pile recalls a story o\' trial and forti- tude, courage and magnanimity, the noblest friendship, and a fear- Less adherence to political principles from religious motives. There were troubled da_\s in England. The king had been false to his people, and had been adjudged the death o( a traitor. Then followed the brief rule of Cromwell, his death, and the restoration of the monarchy. The enthronement of Charles II. was the signal of flighl to those who acted as judges on the trial of his father. Two of these men, Edward Whalley and William Goffe, arrived at Boston the J T 1 1 1 of -luly, L660, in the very ship which brought the fust tidings oi' the Restoration. The) were particularly obnoxious to the new government from their relation-hip to Cromwell, their political influence in the late Commonwealth, the rank tiny had held in the armies of the Parliament, and the possession of eminent talents whose exercise might again endanger the monarchy. For a time the) were safe in Massachusetts, and it was hoped the) might be forgotten in the mother country and suffered to live in peace in these remote regions. But -when, some months later, an act of indemnity arrived, and these men were specially excluded from the general pardon, it became evident that royal vengeance would not H EST KOCK. 1 .",',1 overlook theni. Still qo attenipl was made to arrest theiri until February, L661, when a warrant to thai effed arrived from England. Anticipating this, thej had lefl for Connecticul a Pevi days before, and the friendly officers of justice in Massachusetts were careful to look for them in another direction. Already had the good Davenport, minister of the New Eaven colony, prepared his people to receive them, teaching them to "Be no1 forgetful t<> entertain strangers;" to "Remember those in bonds as bound with them," ami citing for their direction such passages as "Makethj shadow as the night in the midst of the noonday; hide tin- outcasts; bewray not him that wandereth. Let mine outcasts dwell with thee, Moab ; l>e thou a coverl 1" them from the face of the spoiler." Thus taught, and the people "I' that colony were atten- tive to such instructions, thej were readj to give the fugitives efficienl protection. Etoyalisl officers pursued them, but the "noonday was night" around them. They had been seen at the house of Mr. Daven- port and elsewhere in town, bu1 search was always made lor them in the wrong place. At last, when no house could longer give them protection and their friends were endangered \>\ their presence, West Rock furnished them a refuge. < >n its summit there are large masses of stone irregularly thrown together, so that the apertures between furnish a recess or small cave, in which the wanderers hid themselves. Trees and bushes grew thick around, concealing the entrance. Thej were not forgotten in this retreat. Every day, ami often both morning and evening, a messenger ascended the height to carry them food, and thej were informed of all thai passed below. There thej were com- paratively safe; bu1 it was told them thai their tried friend, Mr. Davenport, was exposed to danger on their account, and though the certainty of a painful, humiliating death was before them, they de- 140 WEST ROCK. mi in UmI to the town with the intention of surrendering them- selves to the royal officers. They preferred any suffering to the tran- sient peril of their friend. This danger was less alarming than they supposed, and they were persuaded to return to their cave. What weary days and nights passed over them in that solitude ! Those restless souls, nurtured to battle and the strife of political par- ties, so lately prominent in the terrible struggle at home, were here condemned to inaction, to the slow wearing out of life in loneliness and dread. They could look off' upon the waters, hut seldom came a vessel up that bay ; and when at rare intervals a white sail gleamed there, it only seemed to mock their impatience to know the tidings it brought, — too often saddest news for them. They could watch every approach to the mountain, and friends occasionally visited them there. Stories were long told of mysterious appearances on that height, — forms as of human beings seen in mist, hoveling over the edge of the precipice ; tales which have since resolved themselves into the morning or evening stroll on which the lonely outcasts ventured. The messenger who generally carried them food, was ignorant for whom it was intended. There was a strange mystery hi his errand, and he executed it with fear, thinking of appa- ritions the villagers had seen there. The emptied cloth or basket was always in its place, but no human being was visible. But the Cave ou West Rock had its own dangers. A security from pursuing men, there was no safety from the tenants of the forest. Wild beasts were around the fugitives. Roused at night by their howling or cries, and waked to see then' glaring eyeballs fixed upon them, they were forced to desert their mountain refuge, and again found a shelter among men. Years passed on. Search for them was relinquished at intervals only to be renewed with greater zeal ; but concealed in an inland vil- VV EST BOCK. Ill lage of Massachusetts,* uot all the officers of the crown could trace them out. There fchej died, bul their place of burial was kepi secret, Lesl their ashes should be dishonored. Later developments seem to prove their removal to New Haven, and the stranger standing on Wesl Rock is shown the church in whose shadow thej are believed tn lie buried. The panther no longer screams up that rocky height, and the woods art' cut away, but the "Judge's Cave 11 remains. High <>n its front some hand has recorded the political creed of the men who there suffered exile and persecution: " Opposition to tyrants is obe- dience to God." There may it remain, the epitaph of the " Regicides" as the Rock is their memorial! Hadley. T II E ERIE HAIL 110 A J) [See Title-page.) BY BAY A ltD T A V r, C) |{ . W'nii the rapid progress and wider development of the great loco- motive triumphs of the age, steam travel and steam navigation, the vulgar lament over their introduction is beginning to disappear. Sen- timental tourists who once complained that every nook where the poetry of the Past still lives — every hermitage of old and sacred associations would soon be invaded by these merciless embodiments of the Present and the Practical, are now quite content to take then- aid, wherever it may be had, between Ceylon and the North Cape. The shriek of the steam whistle is hardly as musical as the song of the sirens, and a cushioned car is not so romantic as a gondola, yet they pass Calypso's isle with the sound of one ringing in their ears, and ride into Venice over the bridged Lagunes in the other. The fact is, it was only the innovation which alarmed. Once adopted, its miracles of speed, comfort, and safety, soon silenced the repinings of those who depend on outward circumstances and scenes to give those blossoms of thought and sensation, which, without these, their minds are too barren to produce. We now more frequently hear of the 144 THE ERIE RAILROAD. power and poetic mystery of the steam-engine. We are called upon to watch those enormous iron arms and listen to the thick throbbing of that unconscious heart, exerting the strength of the Titans and the Anakim to beat down the opposing waves and bear us forward in the teeth of the terrible winds. We have been told, till the likeness has grown commonplace, of the horse that, snorting fire and smoke from his nostrils, and his neck " clothed with thunder," skims over the plain and pierces the mountain's heart, outrunning the swift clouds and leaving the storm in his rear. We shall learn, ere long, that no great gift of science ever diminishes our stores of purer and more spiritual enjoyment, but rather adds to their abundance and gives them a richer zest. Let the changes that must come, come : and be sure they will bring us more than they take away. No similar work in the world could contribute more to make the Kail road popular with the class referred to, than the New- York and Erie Railroad. This is by far the most striking enterprise of the kind which has yet been completed. Exceeding in length any single road in the world, the nature of the country through which it passes, the difficulties to be overcome in its construction, and the intrinsic charac- ter of the work itself, invest it with an interest and grandeur which few mechanical enterprises of ancient or modern times possess. Its course represents, on a small scale, the crossing of a continent. It belts four dividing ridges of mountains, separating five different sys- tems of rivers and streams. From the level of tide-water at New- York, it rises to a height of 1,366 feet on crossing the main ridge of the Alleghanies, and yet throughout its whole extent of four hundred and fifty miles, there is neither an inclined plane nor a tunnel. The first direct line of communication between the Atlantic and the great Lakes of the North, it has brought them within the compass of a summer's day. The traveller who sees daybreak glimmer over the t u i: E i: i E i: a [LRO AD. 1 l"> waters of New-York Bay, maj watch the lasl tints of the sunsel -ink behind the horizon of Lake Erie. 'I'll.' history "i' the Erie Railroad, is like thai of ;ill great under- takings. It began with :i failure; it ended with a triumph. The first charter for it- construction was granted in L832, fixing the >to<-k at ten millions of dollars, bul tor several years little was done excepl to survey the route. It was originally proposed to construct the road on piles instead of -olid embankments, and the ruins of many miles of such skeleton-work still stretch along the valley of the Canisteo. The difficulties whicb beset the enterprise during the first decade of its existence, were innumerable, and would have discouraged less coura- geous and less enthusiastic men than its projectors. The natural obstacles to lie overcome required an enormous outlay; the consent of Pennsylvania was t<> lie obtained to the building of those parts of the road which lay within her borders; owners of capital hesitated to invest it in an uncertain scheme; and to crown all, came the commer- cial revulsions of L837, which for a time prostrated it wholly. After the country had recovered from this shock, another effort was made. The State came to its relief, and after a season of toil and anxiety the work was recommenced and kept alive till the prospect of success brought all the wealth to its aid which had hitherto been held Lack. Ten years more, and the President of the United States and his Cabi- net, with the highest dignitaries of the City and State, were whirled from station to station, from the Ocean to the Lakes, amid the thunder of cannon, the peal of bells, and the shouts of an inauguration grander even in its outward aspects than tin' triumphal processions of old Rome. The cost of this stupendous work was more than twenty millions of dollar.-. What distinguishes the Erie Road above all other railroads is its apparent disregai'd of natural difficulties. It disdains to borrow an I'.i 146 THE ERIE RAILROAD. underground passage through the heart of an opposing mountain, but climbs the steeps, looks over the tops of the pines, and occasionally touches the skirt of a stray cloud. It descends with equal facility, with a slope in some places startlingly perceptible, throws its bridges across rivers, its viaducts over valleys, and sometimes runs along the brink of a giddy precipice, with a fearless security which very much heightens the satisfaction of the traveller. Let us put the airy car of our memory on its track, and we shall run over the whole line before one of its locomotives could pant out fifty of its asthmatic breathings. From Piermont, on the Hudson, the road stretches out an arm, a mile in length, into the Tappan Bay, and receives us from the boat. Behind the village there is a notch in the arc of hills embracing the bay, and through it we pass into the old fields of Rockland, with their old walls and old, red, Dutch farmhouses. A few miles — and the Ion"-, sweeping outline of Ramapo Mountain rises before us; the beau- tiful Ramapo Valley lies below, and the little village, with its foun- dries and forges, nearly two centuries old, stands in the mouth of the only pass whereby the mountain is pierced in all its extent — the Clove of Ramapo. Through this pass, of eight miles in length, winds a rivulet, now spreading into a tiny mountain lake, now fretting over the rocks, and leaping hither and thither in a chain of linked cascades. The road follows the rivulet into the grazing farms of Goshen — rich, upland meadows, dotted with trees and breathing of the cream and milk and butter that load a daily train to the metropolis. This region is passed and again the mountains appear, the Catskills blue in the north, but the rugged Shawangunk lying across our path. Up, up we go, fifty feet to the mile, and are soon high on the side, looking over its forests into the deep basin of the Nevising, which pours its watery into the Delaware. Port Jervis, a station on the line, seems at our feet; it is five hundred feet below us, but sliding down ten miles in almost so many minutes, we are there. T II E K K 1 I i: ilLKOAD, 117 The road n<>\\ crosses the Delaware into Pennsylvania, and for a distance of seventy or eighty mile- follows the hank of the river through wild and rugged scenery. For several miles the track lias been laid, with immense Labor and cost, on the top of a precipice nearh one hundred feel in height and falling sheer to the river. Much of the country i- the primitive wilderness, which has never yet been reclaimed. Finally, at Deposit, not far from the source of the Dela- ware, the road turns westward and crosses the Alleghanies to the val- ley of the Susquehanna. Between the two rivers there is also a com- plete wilderness, uninhabited except by the workmen belonging to the l'oad. Notwithstanding a summit cut of 200 feet deep, which cosl $200,000, the ascending and descending grades are very heavy, and some of the mosl remarkable portions of the work are to he found at this point. After striking the Susquehanna, our journey lies tor nearl) one hundred and fifty miles in the rich and picturesque valleys of that river and it- tributaries, the Tioga and the Canisteo, passing through the flourishing towns of Binghamton, Owego, Elinira, and Corning. ( >verlooking the superb meadows and rolling grain-fields, the AHegha- aies or spurs of them are always in sight, and on either side we have a rapidlj unrolling panorama of such rural beauty as would have be- wildered old Cuyp and Rysdael. Another dividing ridge, less steep and rugged than the previous, and we descend through virgin forests, some of which are -wept away li\ tire to make room for the settler, to the Alleghanj River. Hence, to Lake Erie, our course is mainrj through a wild and uncultivated region, or seeming so, after the boun- tiful valleys we have Left. We cross the Indian Reservation; catch a glimpse of some aboriginal idlers in wampum and tnoccason ; again climb a range of hills, several hundred feet in height, from whose sides we overlook valleys and Levels of wild w Hand, and at Las1 reach a curve, where, beyond the far -weep of the dark forest, we see the 1 18 TH E ERIE ISA II. i: (i A D. edge of the sky crossed by a line of deeper blue and know that we behold Lake Erie. Is not" all tins enough for a summer's day? The bold design of this road involved the necessity of a number of grand and costly works. The track itself, in the Pass of Ramapo, and along the Upper Delaware, frequently cost upwards of $100,000 per mile. The Starucca Viaduct, an immense structure of hewn stone, crossing the valley at Lansingburg, is the finest work of "the kind in this country. It is 1,200 feet long, consisting of 18 arches 114 feet in height, and was erected at a cost of $300,000. Next to this, in point of importance, and more remarkable in its character, is the bridge over Cascade Ravine, which is crossed in the descent from the summit ridge of the Alleghanies to the Susquehanna. The mountain is here interrupted by a deep gorge or chasm, through the bottom of which a small stream tumbles in its foamy course. Across this gulf, 184 feet in depth, a single arch of 280 feet span has been thrown, its abut- ments resting on the solid crags. This daring arch, which, to the spectator below, seems hung in mid-air, was eighteen months in build- ing, and cost $70,000. A little to the north the gorge opens into the Valley of the Susquehanna, disclosing through its rugged jaws the most beautiful landscape seen on the road. It was the good fortune of the writer to he one of the guests in the first train which passed over the Cascade Ravine Bridge. At the close of December, 184s, the line was opened from Port Jervis to Binghamton, a distance of one hundred and twenty-five miles. The incidents of that first journey by steam through the wilderness, in the depth of winter, will not soon be forgotten by those who took part in it. The Shawangunk Mountains were topped with snow as we passed them, and on taking the new track, beyond Port Jervis, the flakes began to fall thick and fast. The Delaware ran at the foot of the wild bluffs choked with masses of ice, and each of its many windings r ii e k i: i E i: ailboad. I 19 disclosed a more drear and wintry prospect. The hemlocks benl under their white load; the river ran cold and dark; the frozen cas- cades hung from the rocks, like masses of transparenl spar. For manj m mile there was no sign of human habitation— nothing bu1 the grand ami desolate solitude of the mountains. Ami yet— wonder beyond the tales of Scheherazade! — our superb train carried a bearl of luxury into thai savage realm. We sped along, swiftlj as the bird flies, in a warm and richbj furnished chamber, lounging on sofl seats, half arm-chair ami half couch, apparently as disconnected IV tlm landscape as a loose leal' blown over it bj the winds. l u that plea- sant climate of our own we heard the keen air whistle without, and the lighl patter of the snow againsl the windows, with a sense of com- forl rendered doubly palpable by the contrast. At the little villages on the route, triumphal arches of fir and hemlock boughs were built lor us, upon which antlered buck-, brought in by the hunters, stood straight and still'. Every town which could boast a cannon, gave a hearty salute, and as the early nightfall came on, bonfires were lighted on the hills, it was after dark when we left Deposit, and the -now was a loot deep on tic track, but with two locomotives plowing through the drifts, we toiled slowly to the sum- mit. After we had passed the deep cut and had entered on the de- scending grade, it was found that in consequence of the -now having melted around the rails and afterwards frozen again, the breaks at- tached to the cars would not act. The wheels slipped over the icy surface, and in spite of the amount of snow that had fallen, we -hot down the mountain at the rate of forty miles an hour. The lighl of our lamps showed as the white banks on either hand; the ghostlj 3 above and the storm that drove over all: beyond this, all was darkness. Some anxietj was felt a- we approached the Bridge over Cascade Ravine; the time was not auspicious for this lir-t ie-1 of it- 150 THE Ell IE KAILKOAD. solidity. Every eye peered into the gloom, watching for the critical spot, as we dashed onwards. At last, in the twinkling of an eye, the mountain-sides above and below us dropped out of sight, and left us looking out on the void air. The lamps enabled us to see for an in- stant, through the falling snow-flakes, the sharp tops of pines far below. For a second or two we hung above them, suspended over the terrible gulf, and then every one drew a deep breath as we touched the solid rock which forms the abutment of the arch. But our course was not checked till we reached the Susquehanna Valley, where we sped on past bonfires blazing redly over the snow, till the boom of minute-guns and the screams of our strong-lunged locomotives startled the inhabitants of Binghamton at midnight. On our return, the following day, we reached the Cascade Ravine in the afternoon, and a halt was made to enable us to view the bridge from below. Scrambling through the snow, down the slippery de- clivities, we at last reached the bottom of the gorge and looked up at the wonderful arch, which spanned it as lightly as a rainbow. Firm- set on its base of eternal granite, it gave not the slightest quiver when «>ur train passed over. Although made of perishable materials, it will last as long as they hold together, for its mountain abutments cannot be shaken. Seen from below, the impression it makes upon the eye is most complete and satisfactory, combining the extreme of lightness and grace with strength and inflexible solidity. A few yards further up the mountain, the cloven chasm, over which the gnarled pines hang their sombre boughs, widens to a rocky basin, into which falls a cas- cade seventy feet in height, whence the ravine takes its name. The accompanying engraving, from the view taken by Mr. Talbot, though it may appear exaggerated to one wdio has never beheld the reality, conveys no more than a just idea of the bold and striking character of this work. THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY INNOCENTS, WEST POINT. The Church of the Holy Innocents is situated on the wesl bant of the Hudson, in the very heart of the Highlands, and about a mile south of the Military Academy at "West Point. It was built in the years '46 and '47, and consecrated in July of the latter year by the Rt. Rev. Bishop Delancey. Rumor lias so highly colored the history of its origin, as to enlist in its behalf a degree of interest which may not be materially lessened by a simple statement of the truth. While two or three persons at West Point were contemplating a place for the erection of a Church, somewhere near the spot on which the one in question now stands, lor the benefit of the neighboring population, and as a centre of missionary operations in the surround- ing country, embracing a, large section of the Highlands, one of their number — Prof. I!. W. Weir moved l>\ an afflictive dispensation of God's providence, in the death of