TT 520 
 .H465 
 Copy 1 
 
 .^^VMm-mm^ 
 
 A TEXT BOOK. 
 
 How TO 6UT 
 
 AND Make Up 
 
 LADIES' GARMENTS 
 
 CHAS. HFXKLINGER. 
 
 Price, - $2.00. 
 
 Pur.l.lSHED AT 
 
 135 EAST EIGHTH STREET, 
 
 Nfr^ai* Bi'oail way, 
 NEW YORK, 
 
^CONTENTS 
 
 The Measukks. ....■•' 
 
 To Draft a VVaim kj Mea>liKK, . . - ... 7 
 
 Low Neck Dress Waists, ... .11 
 
 The Basque, .18 
 
 The Sleeve, '5 
 
 Basting and Trying on the Waist, ..... 17 
 
 Inside of High Waist Basque, 19 
 
 Inside of Low Neck Waist, . . ... 22 
 
 Plain and Train Skirts, 23 
 
 Draping and Trimming Dresse,--, ..... 26 
 
 Directions for Making a Plain Skiri, ..... 29 
 
 Draping the Overskirt, 32 
 
 Finishing the Jacket, 36 
 
 Button-Holes, 39 
 
 Trimmings, •il 
 
 '^=^^^S:=^ 
 
 6WJ' 
 
Hecklinger's Ladies' Garments, 
 
 A TEXT BOOK. 
 
 How TO Cut and Make 
 
 LADIES' Garments 
 
 BY- 
 
 CHAS. HECKLINGER. 
 
 (^ r*1AY 1 1886 '^ 
 
 published at 
 
 135 East Eighth Street, near Broadway, 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
X 
 
 
 Copyrighted by CuAS. Hecklingkk, lu-brunry. i836. 
 
 -^.rrx^. 
 
 -o 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 ^.^I^Vi'^ljrrfAVING in the years past had very extensive experience in teacliing tailors 
 
 JjL'-^A:!Jk2 and dressmakers liow to cut ladies' garments, and our students having met 
 
 Am with such good success, we have decided to publish our System in a con- 
 
 ^ densed form and at a popular price, in order that dressmakers may simplify 
 
 their methods of cutting and making up, and even mothers who desire to design and 
 
 construct their own dresses or garments for their children, can have a guide by 
 
 which they are enabled to do so. The method is easily learned — any miss of sixteen 
 
 can acquire it in a few hours, and the result in fit and style will be satisfactory. 
 
 To the dressmaker it will present a way of producing a pattern of a dress or 
 
 jacket which is far superior to any known method she may be acquainted with, as it 
 
 is purely and simply a Tailor System, and the success which tailors have in making 
 
 the modern tailor-made dresses, can just as well be acquired by the dressmaker by 
 
 conforming to its use. 
 
 The correct results which our System give, place it at the head of any and all 
 
 Systems for cutting ladies' garments. 
 
 The Author. 
 
^>.y 
 
 The Measures. 
 
 7tc 
 
 HE measures required are few, and only such are taken as give a sure result. (See 
 y Figs. 1 and 2.) Have a tape to fasten around the waist, so that it will lay level 
 cP" that is, even at the back and at side. An elastic with a crooked pin at one end 
 makes a good tape to fasten around. 
 
 Then measure from the socket-bone at the top of the back, point O, to point I at top 
 of the tape at waist ; also below to the point B, the highest part of the hip, and then to 
 the full length of the garment wanted. 
 
Next take the measure of the width of the back from the centre scam at E to D at 
 armhole. In taking this, one must be careful to observe whether the dress worn is about 
 right. Should it either be too narrow or too wide, modify your measure as seems right. 
 
 Take the measure next under the arm to get the height. This is best done by moving 
 the arm forward to allow you to put the end of the tape directly under the arm at sleeve 
 scam (see Fig. 1) at point F; then from there measure down to the bottom of tape at J. 
 Next put it under the arm, close up, and get the length of the arm down to the wrist, which 
 gives the sleeve length (see Fig. 2), and observe that in taking the front length the tape 
 is applied at point O, at back of neck ; holding it tight there, it is passed over the shoulder 
 down in front of the armhole, letting it hang straight down to the tape at J. This measure 
 should be taken easy, not drawn tight in to the hollow of the shoulder, for it might thus 
 become too short. 
 
 Next measure from the front of arm to the centre of back. Hold the tape in front of 
 arm, let it tighten close around the body under arm, over the blade-bone, and thence to the 
 centre seam of the back. We have a little square, having a tape attached, which is used 
 to take this measure, and very handy, and gives a correct measure. This is sold complete 
 at seventy-five cents. 
 
 Take the breast measure easy over the fullest part of the bust and shoulder-blades; 
 then the waist measure, always close ; then also the hip measure. 
 
 For a skirt, the length is taken on the side from the waist line down to the floor, and 
 also in front from the waist. 
 
 
To Draft a W^aist to Measure. 
 
 l^ IN order to make this more clearly understood, we shall use a certain measure to draft 
 
 u 
 
 {^l our pattern by. For example, this measure shall be the following: Length of 
 ^'9' natural waist to where the tape lays, 15 inches ; the width of back, C>^ inches ; height 
 under arm, 7 inches; length of sleeve, l(i inches; front length, ISJ- inches; the breast 
 measure is 3('i inches, and the waist 2i inches. 
 
 In drafting out our pattern we shall use this measure, but, of course, it is evident that 
 when a measure varies from this we get a different size. But whatever the measures may 
 be, the method of using them is the same in every case as the one which will now be 
 explained. 
 
 See Diag. 3, and start by drawing a line on the edge of your paper as from O to F, and 
 one at top, at right angles, from O to N. For this you need a tailor's square, which should 
 be on every dressmaker's table. Then measure down from O three-fourths of an inch, and 
 in from O to J two inches, and curve from | to ^ as on our figure. 
 
 From f down apply the length of back which is fifteen inches to F, and at F draw 
 a line over towards the front. Next, go in from the line at point F one and one-half 
 inch and dot a point, and from this point to J draw a straight line for the centre of back. 
 
 Now to get the line under the arm : Measure up from F the height under the arm, 
 seven inches, which will give C, where a line is drawn over to the front at right angles 
 with the first back line. 
 
 From Z to 16 place one-half of the breast measure, which in this case is eighteen 
 inches, and draw a line up and down. Also measure over from Z to S the actual width of 
 the back, six and one-half inches, and from Z to H for the front of arm, which is ten and 
 one-half inches, and which measure is the blade measure as taken from the front of arm to 
 the centre of back. At S and H draw lines up. 
 
 In the middle between O and C mark a point B, from which draw a line over, and in 
 the middle between S and G mark a point R, and draw lines across as shown at R. Every 
 line drawn thus far, except the back line which is from | to 1^, must be at right angles with 
 the line it starts from. 
 
From the point where the lines cross at G, draw one across to top of back at ^, and 
 curve from ^ to J, which is one-half inch above G. 
 
 Beginning at J curve the armhole past G, a trifle inside the line between G and R, and 
 from there to 15. This last is about one inch from S. Make the bottom of the back one 
 and one-half inch wide. This is only a medium size, as it can be made one or two inches 
 — only placing the seam further back or more forward. 
 
 Next, from R draw a straight line to 1^ (see Diag. 4), then slightly curve for the seam 
 from R, inside of line past 19, to 2. Between 10 and 2 curve more towards the centre of 
 back. A few trials only are needed to produce these or any other curves, and by a little 
 perseverance any dressmaker can draw all the lines and curves as well as a tailor. 
 
 From 2 on the back to side-body is one inch ; then curve from 19 to 1. 
 
 Point V is in the centre between S and H. F"rom V, straight down, draw a line to 4, 
 and curve a little on each side of it. Also separate the side-body from X to 3. Point X is 
 midway between line R and V, and the distance between 3 and 4 is about one inch more 
 than between X and V. 
 
 Take one-sixth of the breast, which in this case equals three inches, and place it from 
 point N to P. Use N as pivot and sweep- from P to 15. 
 
 At point 8 on waist line, directly under H, measure up past P the front length, which in 
 this measure is eighteen and one-half inches, deducting from it the width of back on top, 
 
 *A sweep is a curve drawn from a pivot. Draw it with a compass, or hold one end of the tape at N as pivot, and 
 with the other curve around with a pencil. 
 
from A to |, and where this reaches point P is fixed. It may be the case when a person is 
 erect that this will reach above the line at P, or, again, on stooping figures, this measure is 
 shorter and will not reach P. Wherever the measures locate P, should it go above or 
 below, always sweep from a point marked N, which should be drawn even across with the 
 shoulder point P. 
 
 No matter where point P is located by measure, whether above, below, or on the line, 
 always start from it to draw a line across to point B on the back, on which is placed the 
 height of shoulder. Now take the width of the shoulder on the back from A to G, and 
 place it from P to get point 17 on this line. Then from 17 curve above it about one-fourth 
 
 10 // /2 
 
 inch at 21, and drop it a trifle from 17 to 20. Also draw the armhole from 20, going 
 inside of H, but never more than one-half inch, to V, as shown on our diagram. 
 
 Draw the front line next — starting inside of straight line at 15 one-quarter inch, and 
 gradually curve out till at D we have a one-half inch curve, and then go in again to line 
 near the waist at U. From U go down one and one-fourth inch to T, and draw a line 
 across to 13. 
 
 Measure the distance from U to li-, skipping the opening between 1 and 2, and in this 
 draft it will give us sixteen inches. Now one-half of the waist measure is twelve inches. 
 
10 
 
 which sLibstracted from sixteen inches leaves us four inches, which must be taken out in 
 darts in front. 
 
 In order to produce these darts in the right place, we proceed in this manner: First 
 locate a point in the middle between H and D, which gives 12, and another in the centre 
 between H and 12, which is marked 13. From U, in front, to 5, place two inches. We 
 never wish to have the first dart any nearer to the front than this, except on narrow waists 
 or on full dress waists. Then from 5 to 6 we place two inches, which is one-half of the 
 amount to be taken out. Between the darts leave three-fourths inch, and then place 
 another dart of two inches from 7 to S. In the centre of each dart mark a point like the 
 stars, and from these draw lines to 13 and 12. 
 
 One-third of the height under arm from 13 locates 23, while 22 is one-half inch lower, 
 then, starting from each of the last points, curve them as shown on the diagram. It will 
 be seen that they are drawn very pointed at the top, and that below the waist line they 
 are run straight down without any spring being given. Go down from U one and one- 
 quarter inch and draw the line across to 12. 
 
 From 1 curve to 3 and 4; between 3 and 4 this line runs a trifle above the waist line, 
 and then from 4 to 12 on lower line. Point 10 is a little lower than the line, while it rests 
 on the line from 9 to T. 
 
 This finishes the draft by measure, and we need only say that this pattern, as well as 
 all we draw or explain in this book, requires the adding of seams according to the 
 material used. 
 
 "^■^■^ 
 
11 
 
 Low Neck Dress Waists. 
 
 (^T w,ll be noticed that the general arrangements of the draft illustrating these is the 
 
 CI same as the pnor or main draft produced by this System. The pointed, basque-like 
 Y shape at bottom, .s made to whatever shape may be desired, a few illustrations of 
 vh.ch we g:ve as they appear finished. One main point, however, on all may be noticed 
 
 that they are all short on the side over the hips. "oiicea, 
 
 In drawing out all waists which are low in the neck, the first point which we shall call 
 
 attenfon to .s that they must reach low down on the shoulders, and, therefore, we have o 
 
 draft them so to meet this requirement. 
 
 oneha Mnf; "'^"r ''f '^''^'' "" ^o out to line 10, on line D-I, one or one and 
 
 Ztl7o:i7 /''^ ': 'T 'r "^ ^'^'^ '''^ °1^^"''^S. The same distance which 
 d aw tt , ' r . ^ '° ^-' ^''' ^'''' '"'^'■^^^^'^' "^ '""^^ -dd on from O to R, and 
 
 d::;;d'teT:::DUT '"^^ '--' '-''''" '-'-^ ' ^^■'" ^^^- ^^^ ^hape as marked b^ the 
 Next it must be decided how low the opening should be, and when this is fixed draw 
 
 o ::;:: ::itz r '' ? '^ "^' ^ ^^ '■ ^^^^ ^^^^^ - ^'--•'^-^ --^ ^e made ti : 
 
 asl added ot^; h' t" ; "'c" "'"'''' '^""^ ^^^ ^'^^^^^ ^°P ^^^^ ^'- --^ ^-o-t 
 db lb added to the shoulder from S to 10. 
 
12 
 
 Low Neck Waist . with Kd^in^ of 
 Fe&ther Trimming. 
 
 Hi?h Closinar Waist, with Square 
 Cut Front. 
 
 . -._ ,1,/... c;.,J, 
 
 Short Waist anil Low Cut in Xeck. 
 
 Pointed Waist, nitli Tulle. 
 
The Basque 
 
 * 
 
 C^HE diagram accompanying this article presents a pointed basque produced by the 
 
 \^^ S'ime System. It has already been explained how the upper part of the waist is to 
 ^f)>- be drafted, and as in this it is the same down to the waist, it is unnecessary to 
 repeat it again. 
 
 From the waist down we place whatever length is wanted at the back to J on line B. 
 
 From 1 and 1|- the outside width of the back lines are drawn down, and whatever is 
 put on from S to back line must al.so be added from line at 30 to 2S. Then curve the lines. 
 On a short basque the back line does not touch the point J, as it must have less spring, 
 
14 
 
 and therefore the width of back at S is only a little more than at waist, or about one-half 
 inch on each side of straight lines. 
 
 From J to 2S curve up, to taste. If wanted W'ith a high curve at side, over the hips, 
 it may reach above 28 ; and when desired straight around the bottom, draw it along bottom 
 line, or similar to a jacket, as shown on other figures. 
 
 The side-body at bottom must start at S, level with 28, rising up towards R. Q is 
 even with R, and from it to O draw the line a little lower. 
 
 Point P is also level with O; thence, forward, it is drawn so that the front point is 
 either level with the back or longer pointed, as shown on the figure, where it is two inches 
 lower. 
 
 The darts are placed the same as on a waist, but below the waist line F they curve, 
 as shown. The best way to produce a good result is to draw straight lines down from 
 11, 12, 13 and 14, drawing them inside or outside of these lines, as shown. It will thus be 
 seen that 23 comes nearly in the centre of the second dart, because more curve is here 
 needed for the hips, while the space between the darts is drawn so that the distance 
 between 24 and 25 is only a little more than at 12 to 13. In this w^ay, when the darts are 
 sewn up they will take the shape, or the seams will shape themselves like the centre-piece 
 between the darts. 
 
 When dividing the side-body, from 18 to 19, directly under the arm draw a straight 
 line down to 22, and let the spring on each side of this line be equal, as P and O. Also 
 take out about one-fourth inch above the waist line along the side-body seams, to curve 
 them more to the shape. 
 
 From 15 to 20 a straight line is also drawn to 21, and an equal amount is put each 
 side of this line, over the hips, to R and Q. 
 
 It will be noticed that point IS is in the middle, between line E and the line K, or 
 point S on Diag. 4; and point 1.5 is midway between IS and line K; the width of the 
 side-body, at the waist, is made wider ; the line from IS is always drawn straight down ; 
 then divide the distance from point 19 and 2, the centre of which is 20; and from 15, 
 through 20, draw the line to 21, and curve the seams. 
 
 ^.^^ 
 
15 
 
 The Sleeve. 
 
 lOMMENCE by drawing lines 0-E and 0-F. Use the armhole size to produce the 
 J> sleeve, and go down from O to B one-fourth of this ; A is in the middle between O 
 o)^ and B. Draw lines across. From O to F is one-half of armhole, and from there 
 draw a line down to K. From B to F draw a straight line and half it, which will be point 
 H ; and from this last also draw a short line at right angles with the diagonal line from 
 H to J. Measure the length of line B-F and take one-third of it and place it from H to J. 
 Now, using J as pivot, sweep from line at top, point 4, around to the front and the back. 
 From B curve line past 5 to this sweep. Where the sweep crosses line at G, draw a line 
 down to K. 
 
 Go down from B to C three-fourths inch, and from here measure the length of arm 
 to E. Mark a point midway between B and E, which gives D, and draw a line across. 
 
 In the middle, between the two parallel lines at back, mark a point /. Now lay the 
 square in such a position on the pattern that five inches will touch point E, and the long 
 arm will touch/", then draw along the bottom, from E to N, and to/. Begin to curve from 
 C, past L to/, and curve to N. 
 
 Go in from D one and one-half inch and draw the front seam of the sleeve. From X, 
 where the curve strikes line B, begin to draw the under sleeve parallel with the upper 
 part from (> to 1. 
 
 Measure from B around the sleeve-head to C, and apply number of inches obtained 
 to X, and measure past I toward ."i, the measure of armhole and two inches more. If the 
 upper sleeve measures eleven inches, place eleven inches on to X and measure sixteen 
 inches, adding two inches more to line at 3 for a si.xteen-inch sleeve. Wherever point 3 is 
 located begin to draw the back arm seam to bottom by running straight down, curving out 
 to 2, or as much inside of line 7 as /is outside of it. 
 
 We would advise the use of Diag. 7, as the manner of drafting there explained will 
 produce the best results ; but to those who may not understand it, we give a simpler 
 method on the following page. 
 
16 
 
 The Sleeve.— Diag. 8. 
 
 Draw the line 0-G and O-F (see Diag. 8). From O to C go down one-third, less 
 one-half inch, and draw a line over to K. In the middle, between C and O, also draw a 
 line from B to H. 
 
 From O to G is one-half of armhole size, which on a measure of IG-inch armhole 
 would be eight inches, or on a 14 seven inches, and draw a line from G downwards. 
 
 From C begin to curve the sleeve-top past I to H, touching the top line at I. 
 Be careful to flatten the curve from C to about halfway to I, and then give all the round. 
 From L to E apply the length of sleeve. Make F one and one-fourth inch lower down 
 than E. 
 
 From E to N is an average of five inches. Draw a line from H past K to M and N, 
 curving it inside of K about one-half inch and curve the line only a trifle below the elbow. 
 
 <?i td 
 
 Go in from D one and one-half inch, and draw the inside seam from C to E. This 
 finishes the upper sleeve. 
 
 For the under sleeve draw from C, curving under straight line to L, thence to J. 
 Point J is one inch inside of H. From J draw down to within one-half inch of M and to 
 N. The front seam is the same as the upper sleeve from C to E and N. 
 
 In drawing any sleeve use the measure of the armhole, and bear in mind that this 
 manner of drafting has the seams already included. 
 
 To facilitate work in the busy season, it is judicious to have a set of sleeve patterns 
 ready cut — such sleeves will require no change except, perhaps, shortening and lengthen- 
 ing at wrist. 
 
 ^^^ 
 
It 
 
 Fig, 4. Strip with Hooks and Eyes. Fig. o.^Inside View of Waist Uasttd to Try On. 
 
 Fig. 3. How to Sew on Hooks and Eyes, 
 
 Basting and Trying on the Waist. 
 
 FTER all the pieces are carefully cut out, then commence to baste them together. 
 First the darts, then the side seams; after that the back is put together, and last 
 the shoulders. The latter, as well as the side seams, should be basted with the 
 seams on the outside, because there they can be taken in or let out more readily. On the 
 right front piece turn in a strong seam, while the left remains as an underlay. To com- 
 pletely finish the front edge can only be done after a try-on. As, however, we can only 
 judge as regards a good fit by having the waist closed up, therefore we have a strip of 
 cloth on which there are hooks and eyes, and this we sew on to the front in order to be 
 able to close it. Such a strip can be used over and over again on different dresses. This 
 is shown by the above illustration. Fig. 4, as is also the manner of sewing on hooks and 
 eyes. Fig. .3. 
 
 The sleeve is basted on to its lining, closed at the seams, and only fastened by pins 
 to the armhole after the waist is on the person. On high-priced goods it would be advan- 
 tageous to add a large outlet to the seams so that they can be made larger if required. 
 
 The trying on must be carefully looked after. It may happen that on the side seam 
 or the shoulder seam some material may have to be taken in. It is seldom, yet it may 
 occur, that the shoulder seam will require opening its whole length, and be smoothed up in 
 
18 
 
 its natural place. Sometimes it may be better to let the forepart on the shoulder run up 
 closer to the neck, and on the last cut-out ; and again it may require smoothing more 
 toward the armhole. 
 
 Only after the waist has been fixed can we put on the sleeve, which is best pinned 
 on like figure. The width of the sleeve must be regulated by the prevailing fashion, and 
 may be tight or loose as desired. Mark on the armhole where the sleeves go in. 
 
 Fig. 6. Trjing on the ITaist. 
 
19 
 
 Inside of High Waist Basque. 
 
 |N a previous page we explained the drafting of the waist. Now we will explain 
 the finishing of the same. The putting together of blouses, princesses and others, 
 are so familiar that they really need no separate explanation. In sewing together 
 the separate seams of a waist or a basque, it is advisable to use silk, as the seams are much 
 stronger. On thick material all seams are pressed out, and in doing this, do like tailors; 
 use a small piece of soap, and run down on the stitching on both sides, then with a 
 moderately heavy iron open the seams flat and evenly, which will not be difificult. 
 
 The fronts should be turned in on the wrong side, the bottom and back edges on the 
 right; then again use the soap and iron to get the edges firm and flat. They should be 
 
 The Inside ol' a lii^'li Waist Basque. 
 
 faced with a narrow, double piece of linen, and hooks and eyes inserted between the linen 
 and cloth like Fig. 7, being careful not to bring them too much forward, or there will be an 
 ugly gap down the front. 
 
 When it is desired to finish the fronts with a fly, a separate piece is sewn together 
 gauged to the length and button-holes made, then sewed on to the edge, leaving enough 
 space so that it will not show on the outside, see Fig. 8. 
 
 Another way to sew on hooks and eyes is to leave the lining full enough so that it can 
 be plaited over about one-half inch, which covers the hooks and eyes. This is well illus- 
 trated by Fig. 9. 
 
 The great secret of making a waist fit perfectly, whether it is high or low cut, lies in 
 the art of joining and boning it. In joining together there are certain parts which 
 require to be held tightly, that one portion appears quite full; there is the shoulder, which. 
 
20 
 
 •'.'•""••/••v.' JV»«V,'''*"?':i.*"';»; • 
 
21 
 
 for about two or three inches, must be stretched so as to fall into the hollow without 
 causing wrinkles. 
 
 The next part is the front to the side-body at the under arm seam. Join evenly for 
 about three inches, then hold the front tight and put the side-body on slack ; this avoids 
 creases. 
 
 At the front dart, seam three inches, then hold the front tighter or it may wrinkle ; 
 all the other parts should be joined fairly and equally. But take care not to stretch the 
 rounded part of the back side piece which covers the shoulder-blade, as nothing is more 
 unsightly than the hunch-like protuberance noticed in badly made waists. 
 
 This and another grave fault, namely, a too narrow back caused by scooping out the 
 back of the armhole, which should be straight, often exposes the origin of a dress, which 
 might otherwise pass for the handiwork of a good tailor. Another important matter is 
 putting in the whalebones. 
 
 ^^^ 
 
22 
 
 Fiff. 10. Inside of Dross Wiiisl 
 
 Inside of Low Keck Waist. 
 
 j^5^N good work every seam is boned up to a couple of inches below the bust. If any 
 l^Sy seams are omitted, let it be those of the back. The under arm and the bosom 
 ■i^)^ seams or darts cannot be omitted. Commence by pressing the seams open, then 
 run a galoon quite easily, but at the waist almost full; cut the bones to the length 
 required, making a hole at either end. Put in the bone and sew firmly at the top ; then 
 press it upwards so that it is slightly bent or rounded. This curve in the bone will fall into 
 the waist line, and add greatly to the close fit of the waist. 
 
 The neck band also requires putting on tightly just in front of the edge, but a trifle 
 easy near the shoulder seam. This is usually lined on the inside with silk. Fig. 11 repre- 
 sents the manner of putting on the band. 
 
 Fis. 11. Manner of Putting on Xeck Band. 
 
Plain and Train Skirts 
 
 /f^ UTTING and making a skirt of any or all styles is sometimes con- 
 sidered of very little importance. By many dressmakers this work 
 is intrusted to inexperienced hands and blocked out by a 
 pattern which is considered to fit any form, which, of course, it f 
 
 cannot do. Many fine costumes lack tlie correct style because the / 
 law for cutting skirts has not been observed. 
 
 The present fashion requiresthat the skirt should be 
 fitted with as much care as any other part of the dress. 
 All the fullness must be so arranged as to fall into the 
 back breadths of the skirt. The sloping of the bottom 
 must be correct, so as to give a straight, even effect 
 across the front and sides, and so arranged that 
 the back folds may hang out well. 
 
 The skirt of a walking dress, in order to be in 
 harmony with style, should adhere closely around 
 the sides and front, leaving all the fullness 
 in the back. 
 
 In order to gain the close fit around the 
 hips, the skirt is rounded off at top between 
 the breadths, which reduces to the size 
 needed to fit the waist. As the hips 
 increase more or less, it must be 
 evident that in order that the skirt 
 may fall down over the hips, the size 
 there must be large enough, and 
 when the waist is small these 
 curves are greater at side. 
 
 The front width is cut 
 wide enough that only one 
 additional width is needed at 
 each side. On stout 
 ladies extra care must 
 be taken that the front 
 be also sufficient to 
 cover the round 
 form of the 
 body. If not 
 enough round is 
 given, the skirt 
 will hitch up on 
 the waistband. 
 
 Diag. 9 illus- 
 trating a skirt, 
 represents in 
 reality a system 
 
2i 
 
 for cutting them. This is simple in construction and gives good results. The skirt has 
 front and side gores with hip-fitting darts in them, a back breadth which may be folded or 
 gathered at the waistband. 
 
 All dress skirts must first have this shape upon which the plaits, or folds, or flounces are 
 fastened or shaped. The overskirt is a separate affair. 
 
 In producing the skirt by this System, first draw the line 0-B. From B to C is the 
 
 front length of skirt. Draw line across to E. From C to D go up in every size three- 
 quarters of an inch, where another line is drawn over to F. Now we use the waist 
 measure to get all the points. From C to E is one-quarter of the waist, equal to six 
 inches on a waist of twenty-four inches. From E to F is also one-quarter of the waist. 
 From F measure up to the first line at point H the whole waist, twenty-four inches, which 
 gives H. Draw the line from H through F to the bottom of skirt at S. 
 
25 
 
 From point F draw a line at right angles with the last line, over, to get I, and 
 place from F to get I one inch less than half of the waist, or eleven inches. This will give 
 ample fullness for drapery, and not too much to gather in easily. The same distance as 
 from F to I place from S over to R, and through R and I draw a line, which crosses at O 
 the first line drawn from O to B. Now draw another line from point O through E, which 
 reaches J at the bottom of the skirt. 
 
 Measure the length of the skirt from C to B, and by using O as a pivot, sweep from 
 B to R, giving the lower edge. From the line at E curve the darts down to 1 by taking 
 out three-quarters of an inch on each side, and the same from F to 2 on the side gore. 
 The back breadth is left straight. From C curve to E, going below the line one-cjuarter of 
 an inch, and from E curve slightly to F. 
 
 In taking the length of a person measure from the natural waist to the instep for a 
 walking dress, or longer if the skirt is to cover the feet. In ladies' skirts the average length 
 in medium sized forms is forty inches. Tall figures will require from forty-two to forty- 
 three inches. 
 
 We give here the average lengths used for girls according to their ages : 
 
 Nine years -3 inches long. 
 
 Ten " 25 
 
 Eleven " 26^ 
 
 Twelve " 28 
 
 Thirteen " 30 " 
 
 Fourteen " 32 
 
 Fifteen " 35 
 
 The front gore is cut on the fold of the goods at the centre of the front on line C-B. 
 The back is usually cut on the fold at the centre line I-R. It is faced at the bottom with 
 buckram, extending from si.x to twelve inches upward, corded and bound at its lower edge, 
 and finished with a band at waist. 
 
 The Train Skirt. Diag. 10. 
 
 The train skirt differs from the preceding in so far that from H to O an amount is left 
 on the side gore to cause the back breadth to swing back in a suitable manner. It is gen- 
 erally ten inches more from the seam to O ; then starting from J the lower line is curved 
 down in order that point O may be long enough. The line from H to D must be as long 
 as H-0, and curve from D to I. The lower curve depends upon the length added on, for 
 if the length at I is increased greatly, the curve J to O, and D to I becomes greater. 
 
 Illustrations of the skirt finished, showing the out and inside, the management of the 
 seams, putting in the pockets, the overskirt, motives for draping, as well as suggestions 
 about arranging styles, etc., are given in the following article. 
 
 •^•5**^ 
 
26 
 
 Figs. 12 mid 13. Inside Ticns of the Back Draperies, shoniuf; tlie Kliisties aud Hooks, 
 or Wliere it is Tightened Together. 
 
 Vie. 14. Skirt nith Inclosed 
 Steel Bands. 
 
 Uuktic. 
 
 Draping and Trimming- of Dresses. 
 
 O far we have only paid attention to the cutting, fitting and plain finishing of dresses 
 and waists. Now we shall, in the articles following, endeavor to illustrate and ex- 
 plain the finishing and draping of skirts. Trimming means to fastne to a garment 
 such pieces as may be required to meet style or the prevailing fashion. It may be a narrow 
 or wide plaiting, or more than one at the bottom ; and again it may mean lace, jet or 
 bullion. Then again binding, braids, or embroideries may be used. 
 
 To sew all these on we must have good silk, which is of the color to harmonize with 
 the material, and a great deal of care must be used to get a good effect. 
 
 If we mean to put on a fold or puff, then first baste it on, in order to see if it is in the 
 right place and looks well, and try the garment on a person or a form. Only when this is 
 done, and the result satisfactory, can we sew it tight, and then with such stitches as are 
 desired, either sewed by machine or by invisible felling. The simple trimming of the front, 
 
the cuffs of sleeves and collar, with velvet, satin or different materials, requires no explan- 
 ation. Low neck dress are usually only trimmed on the upper edge and the short sleeves, 
 and mostly with lace, which must be sewed on so that the stitches are not seen. 
 
 The skirt is seldom worn plain as it is cut. It is usually trimmed in different manners, 
 and a draped part put over it. 
 
 Fig. 16. Manner of l*iittiii;j in the Steels in tbe Back Part 
 ol' tlie Skirt. 
 
 To give it the correct effect it requires first a peculiar arrangement which regulates the 
 back part of the skirt. If the fashion demands more or less close drawing in, then there 
 must be some means attached by which it can be drawn in. Such are put in as illustrated 
 by the figures. 
 
 To prevent or evade any inconvenience in the wear of a close skirt, and yet to fully 
 produce it in harmony to fashion, there are steels put into the back skirt similar to Fig. 16. 
 These puff the drapery outwards and help much to give it a satisfactory appearance. One 
 or two of these are only necessary. 
 
 '^{^ 
 
 Fig. 17. Talile Folded up. 
 
 18. Placint; tlie Dress on tiie'Tabl© to Lay tlie Folds. 
 
 In draping we must first of course carry in our mind the effect we wish to produce. 
 Some skirts that are plaited the plaits run up as high as the waist. Some do not need 
 it so high because they have an overskirt which covers the upper part. 
 
 To easily effect all this draping nothing is more useful than a board, over which the 
 skirt can be drawn. This might be made with two legs attached at one end, like Fig. 17, 
 which stand upon the floor while the other end rests upon the table, see Fig. 18. This 
 simplifies the putting on of plaits or any other trimming a great deal. 
 
 At the present moment fashion favors the dressmaker in a most kindly manner. The 
 new styles are so diversified that it is comparatively easy to select a style that is becoming. 
 
28 
 
 Fig. 19. Plaited Sliirt, with Buttoned Front. 
 
 Fif. -.'O. Plaited Skirt, with Buttoned Front. 
 
 Fig. 21. Plaited Skirt, Back. 
 
 Fig. 22. Under Skirt. 
 
 Fig. 2». Plaited Skirt, Front. 
 
29 
 
 Draperies which are complicated are fatal to most, for however well the crarment is 
 made, badly arranged folds and drapings will ruin the most careful work, and" spoil the 
 effect of the whole. Many dressmakers, after years of labor and experience, are still unable 
 to drape a skirt gracefully. Of course, if you have a dress-stand you may after a few trials 
 succeed m gettmg a drapery to hang well, but the great error of the inexperienced is to 
 drape too much, or to loop fold upon fold in ungraceful fashion. 
 
 Fig. -J 4. 
 
 Pig. 25. 
 
 Directions for Making a Plain Skirt. 
 
 The directions for making the foundation skirt of a dress have been given among the 
 first notes upon dressmaking, but as there are so many difYerent modes of tnmmin<. skirts 
 a few directions may prove acceptable. To cover with a kilting-f^rst, cut ten wfdths of 
 the material, twenty-seven inches long, join; if the material has not a self-colored selvage 
 the selvage must be cut off and the edges must be over-sewn when joined; turn up and 
 heni the lower edge by hand or machine; if by hand, the stitches must be almost invisible 
 on the right side. Begin kilting from the hemmed edge, and plait each width to a quarter 
 o a yard and about a quarter in depth. Have a needleful of tacking cotton, and tack each 
 plait as you make it, being sure that all are equal in size ; finish the bottom length. Next 
 tack a second line along the middle, arranging the plaits quite evenly, according to the 
 
30 
 
 Fig. •id. Xiiirun Side I'laits. 
 
 Kig. il. Box uiid Side I'laits. 
 
 Fig. 28. Inside Tiew of Train Skirt. 
 
 Fig. 29. Outside View of Train Skirt. 
 
31 
 
 grain of the material, and so on until you finish the depth of your plaiting. Now take 
 cotton the color of the material and tack the plaits along the top edge; this done, press 
 with a hot iron ; if the material is thick and stubborn, damp it previous to ironing it. 
 Turn down the top edge about half an inch, and tack it along with cotton of its color. 
 This done press the turn-down quite flat with a hot iron. Your kilting is now ready for 
 placing on the skirt ; the hemmed edge should be one-eighth of an inch above the bottom 
 of skirt. Sew the kilting on by hand. Box-plaited skirts with tucks at the edge are very 
 popular; to make one with three tucks, cut five breadths forty-five inches long, and five 
 breadths twenty-seven inches long ; join all the long lengths together, then all the short 
 ones, and join the short to the long. Now turn up the hem all around three inches deep. 
 If for machining, it must be tacked ; if for hemming, pinning will be sufficient. Take a 
 piece of card five inches in depth, and make a mark on it three and a quarter inches from 
 
 Skirt ivitli Long Drapery Huttoiifd on. 
 
 the bottom, put the bottom of the card to the bottom of the hem, turn the material to the 
 exact depth of the card. Now tack your tuck to the three-and-a-quarter-inch mark on the 
 card. Next fix the second and third tucks by leaving one and a half inch between each 
 tuck, as only the stitches of the top tuck are usually shown. You will easily keep your 
 tucks even by cutting the card three inches deep, and marking it at one and a half inch. 
 Place one edge of card at the tacking of the tuck below the one you are fixing, turn the 
 tuck to the other edge of card. The tucks must now be stitched and pressed. You must 
 next double the five front breadths, putting in a pin to mark the middle of front. The 
 front middle plait is twelve inches in width ; it takes rather more than one breadth for this 
 plait, as the folds must wrap over under the centre of plait at the back. Leave spaces of 
 two inches each side of this plait. The two side plaits measure ten inches each when 
 finished ; they must be made in the same manner as described for front plaits. The five 
 
32 
 
 back breadths must be plaited into three ten-inch plaits, with space as before. Now tack 
 all these plaits, beginning at the hem, and tack the front breadths six times at regular 
 intervals ; for the back breadths four times will be sufificient. Press with a hot iron on the 
 wrong side. After pressing, keep the wrong side to you, and put two tapes across the 
 plaits at the front breadths, sewing the tapes to the back of the plaits. You must not 
 tighten the tape, nor must you take the stitches to the front of plaits. One tape is to go 
 across the middle of the plaits, and one between this and the top of the breadths. The 
 back plaitings will not need tapes. Next take the middle of front breadth of foundation 
 and the middle of the front centre box-plait ; pin the plaiting to the foundation centre to 
 centre. The bottom of the hem must fall one inch over a narrow kilting four inches deep 
 that the foundation skirt has been edged with ; said kilting having been made after the 
 manner described above and of the same material or of a brighter color than dress if 
 desired to correspond with trimmings. The depth of this kilting can be arranged to suit 
 individual fancy, it is intended to take away the plain look from the edge of skirt, and 
 
 Fig. 32. Train, to Itutton. 
 
 Fig. 34. Pifce to Button. Inside 
 View of Fig. 82. 
 
 Fig. 33. Onlinary Skirt, with Piece attnilifil 
 to niHlic a Train. 
 
 fashion allows taste to decide. Place the foundation skirt and box-plaiting upon a table 
 and pin closely ; hold the skirt up, shake it, and see that it is even before stitching it to the 
 foundation. When you are satisfied that it hangs evenly sew strongly. 
 
 Draping the Overskirt. 
 
 To make an overskirt for the dress skirt suitable designs will be found in the illusti 
 tions. For the front drapery, cut one breadth of the material twenty-two inches long, ai 
 two breadths each sixteen inches long ; join these three breadths together straight at t 
 top, the long breadth in the middle. Slope the middle breadth at the bottom so that 
 graduates to the side breadths. To put this drapery exactly in the proper curve, rui 
 tacking thread on the skirt, beginning at the side seams nine inches below the waist, a 
 twenty inches below the waist in the center of front. Look well at the illustration, a 
 put the tacking-line in the same slope as is shown in the illustration ; both sides are al 
 
33 
 
 at the bottom of front drapery. You will now find it necessary, for arranging the front 
 and back drapery properly, to put the skirt either on a stand or on a person. Fold the 
 drapery exactly in half, then pin it to the centre tacking-line and run it to the skirt, taking 
 care not to tighten the drapery ; sew both sides on and begin the plaiting at the waist, first 
 putting a mark in the centre of the drapery. Plait the whole of the right side of drapery 
 into a number of small deep plaits, and pin it to the foundation from the front to the seam 
 of the back breadth. Now arrange the left side of drapery ; at about two inches from the 
 front make five plaits close together about two inches deep. When this is plaited, fasten 
 it just below the waistband to the foundation ; there will be a straight unplaited piece 
 from these plaits to the seam of back breadth of foundation ; now take the end of the 
 drapery and plait it up toward the waist. The drapery must fall quite loosely over the 
 line it was tacked on at the bottom ; sew the drapery strongly to the foundation just below 
 
 Fig. 85. Inside of Skirt willi Half Train. 
 
 the waistband, where it has been pinned, and make it neat by hemming a piece of ribbon 
 or binding over it. The sides will be made neat when placing the back drapery over them. 
 Take three yards of the material cut in two, join them together and press the seam, turn 
 under at each side at least three inches. Plait the drapery into a large triple box-plait 
 wide enough to cover the back as far as the joins of the side drapery. The middle of this 
 box-plait must go exactly to the middle of the back ; pin it there firmly. On the left side 
 sew the turn-down piece over the ends of the front drapery. The middle of this box-plait 
 must go exactly to the middle of the back ; pin it there firmly. On the left side sew the 
 turn-down piece over the ends of the front drapery. Carry the plait down seventeen 
 inches, turn under eight inches, so that it forms a deep puff ; sew this plait under the puff 
 to the skirt and slip-stitch the outer plait an inch from the edge down to the skirt. The 
 remainder of this side of the drapery must be turned under to form a second deep puff, 
 
34 
 
 which should terminate nine inches above the foot of the skirt. Now go to the right side 
 and loop it up in the same way ; this will leave the centre hanging loose, which must be 
 looped up and sewn to the skirt about twenty-four inches below the waist. Plait the lower 
 end of drapery, turn it under, allowing it to fall three inches lower in the centre than at 
 the sides; sew firmly to the skirt. (See Figs. 2-i, 25, etc.) 
 
 For the pocket, take a piece of the bodice lining fifteen inches long and fourteen 
 inches wide, double this lengthwise, turn over two corners together to form a triangle of 
 six inches, cut them off, face up the slanted top of the pocket with a piece of the dress 
 material, turn the faced side out. and stitch down the short side and along the bottom, 
 turn the pocket and stitch again about a quarter of an inch from the last stitching. 
 Unpick the side seam of skirt, commencing ten inches below the waist, and pick out seven 
 and one-half inches of the seam. Turn the skirt inside out, sew in the pocket so that the 
 facing shows on the right side of skirt. At the top of the pocket a piece of tape ten inches 
 lontT must be sewn to it, and afterwards fastened to the waistband. 
 
 Fia. 3(). > ion of VnUU Tiirninf! to the 
 Iiisiili', as I se<l on Itni'K Skirt. 
 
 Fig. 3; 
 
 Folds Turned Oiltsido for 
 Long Trains. 
 
 Crinoline is a great improvement plaited in the back of a skirt, even when steels, and 
 a dress improver or bustle are worn. Take three breadths of crinoline, join them together, 
 turn up a hem so that they will be fourteen inches deep, plait in three double box-plaits, 
 allowing the centre plait a little larger than those at the sides, bind it along the top with a 
 piece of tape, sew it to the inside of foundation-skirt just on the lowest steel casing, and 
 sew it down the sides to seam of skirt. To make the dress improver, take a piece of 
 bodice linin^ and make a bag measuring nine inches across the bottom and sevtn inches 
 across the top, seven inches deep ; leave the top unsewn, fill it with horsehair and turn in 
 the top and sew it closely. To keep the horsehair in its place take a needle and thread 
 and knot it at intervals quite through as a mattress is knotted. This is sewn to eye side 
 of band, putting the centre to centre of band ; put a hook on the loose side of improver 
 and an eye on the band of skirt to fasten it to. 
 
35 
 
 Variety of Bows of Ribbon Used on Full Dress. 
 
36 
 
 I'ig. 38. Inside^of a Jacki-t, nil hunt Lining. 
 
 Finishing the Jacket. 
 
 ^^^HE front edge of these garments are faced with the same material or lining, and a 
 41^^ strip of linen to strengthen the buttons put in between. The seams have a strip 
 '^^5v of ItaHan cloth or silk sewn in, which, when the seams are pressed out, is turned 
 over and felled, thus covering them completely. 
 
 After all the seams are covered, a band is sewn on to the back seams, which is used 
 to tie around the waist to hold it close to the body. The edge around the bottom is 
 turned in on the right side, and the lace, or whatever other trimming put on over it. 
 
 Fig. 39. Inside of a Wrap. 
 
The separate pieces of a blouse are sewed together as the different styles of this 
 garment may require. The front edge is underlaid with lining or better linen, that the 
 buttons and button-holes may be strong. The lower edge is hemmed. The collar is 
 lined. The seams can be turned and felled on the inside, which gives them a good finish. 
 
 If the upper part only is lined, then the lining is finished at its lower edge by a hem, 
 or merely notched to keep it from raveling. The long seams are serged for the same 
 purpose. The front may be finished by placing the button-hole through (see Fig. 3S). 
 In regard to the lower edge of this garment it is finished similar to a dress skirt. 
 
38 
 
 fig. 42. Blouse, giiUioied in Front and Batk, 
 
 FiS. 43. Blouse with Plaits Fii-. Ai. Hlouse, «itll 
 and (iathers. Stitclied Plaits. 
 
 Fig. 45. Blouse Waist, nilli Double Collar. 
 
 Fig. 4fi. Blouse Waist, with Laid Plaits. 
 
89 
 
 Button-Holes. 
 
 i^Ji^HERE are many different kinds of button-holes, but only such are made in a dress 
 iiCl as mav be suitable for the material. The cutting of the button-hole, however, 
 
 as may be suitable for the materia 
 ^^ must be done very carefully, and just large enough to correspond with the button 
 which is to be used. There are button-hole shears in the market which are easy to use, 
 can be gauged to any size, and are really reliable, and a great aid in cutting. 
 
 The plain button-hole. Fig. 52, is sewn with strong twist of the color of the material. 
 On material which does ravel, a thread simply run around it, will answer the purpose 
 of holding it, and then the button-hole is made as usual. 
 
 Fig. 54: shows a button-hole which is used altogether on firm cloth. For one like this 
 a plain cut is not sufficient, but a round should be cut out in order to produce an opening 
 for the button, as shown. 
 
 Bound holes are used generally on mantles, etc., and the illustrations clearly show the 
 manner of making them, and we think there will be no failure in producing them if the 
 illustrations are studied. 
 
 I'TOiiiiJirMmiiBi ■Tffl j£ 
 
 
 T 
 
 iiiiiiiiiii 
 
 I I 
 
 IBiiliil 
 
 
 
 ^,^ 
 
 ^f a 
 
 'W 
 
 w I 
 
40 
 
 
41 
 
 Trimming's. 
 
 o 
 
 The following illustrations will be found to be very suggestive, not only as regards 
 style, but in the manner of making up garments as well. 
 
 
 Ouulilu Slriii^ >uth ileiii. 
 
 liui'liiuu;. 
 
 IIoiY to Lay and Fasten Plaits. 
 
42 
 
 <"^> 
 
 
 >s. 
 
 \ 
 
 V 
 
 Manner of lloldiiitr aii<l IJatlierhiz^ Ito\-Plnite<l KiiHU^. 
 
 laiiily Folded Jturlie of OuiiMe KoldtMl iinods. 
 
 riainly Folded lEuolu'. 
 
 
 :;^?j?;j;3Jj«cs^^c^\^^ 
 
 Box-rilit Itullk- 
 
 \ 
 
 ',, 
 
 SJ$S&s^ 
 
43 
 
 KtMliirt'il VifM (if IMaitintfs. 
 
 Side Vi('» oT I'laits as I'lislenod togetlicr. 
 
 -m. 
 
 fliiiiiiWiifl^ 
 
 
44 
 
 Dillerent Styles of Triramin? for Dresses. 
 
45 
 
 :,.," ;" .»iiw/*^»'rv»^^!^^ 
 
 J V 'i 
 
 
 nifferent Styles of Triininini: for Dresses. 
 
 I>ouIjIc Box-plaits. 
 
46 
 
 Bo\-riaits and Small IMaits. 
 
 NarroH Plait.s. 
 
47 
 
48 
 
Gutting Ladies" Garments. 
 
 t 
 
 (^^ T OUR CTJTTIMG ROOMS instructioim uro giuen daihj by teachei's of experience. 
 
 'K 
 
 We teach each student uidividnaUy. The price of a course, not limited' to time, 
 is $30.00 for learning the Cutting of Dresses, Jackets and Cloaks. Ml our 
 
 students, who completed the course, are holding situations, mostly in manufacturing 
 establishments of dresses and cloaks, at higli salaries, and our aim is, iji every case, to 
 so iJioroughly perfect our siiidcjits that they i^hall be capable of holdivg any i-iiiiation. 
 To enable such as di'sire to enter the ready-made dress and cloaJc business, we teach in 
 addition the science of Grading all kinds of Patterns in Hie most correct and astured 
 manner ; the price for which is $25.00. 
 
 To those u'ho wish to acquire the full knowledge of all garment cutting xvithout 
 perso7iaZ instruction, we have for sale a book, "The Cloak and Suit Cutter," which 
 teaches everything necessary for the production of Ladies' Garments, whether it be 
 Dresses, Jackets, Wraps or Dolmans- The book is nicely bound, fully illustrated, and 
 ivill be sent by mail to any address at the moderate cost of $10.00. 
 
 The success of Hecklinger's System of Cutting Ladies' Garments is attested by 
 every m.crchant tailor in the land. If you have any doubt about it, just go to your 
 nearest tailor and inquire of him, and he will tell you our System is the one univers- 
 ally used by all tailors. •" 
 
 Patterns are also furnished from our house, such as Jackets, Cloaks, Dolmans and 
 Dresses, at reasonable rates, price lists of which will be sent on application. 
 Remember the address. 
 
 CHAS. HECKLINGER, 
 
 135 East Eighth Street, 3 Doors from Broadway, 
 
 NE\V YORK. 
 
LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 
 
 'ilflllillPlli'i'lfili'lliifi'lfi 
 
 e 014 062 025 7 im 
 

 A* 
 
 '.■V 
 
 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 014 062 025 7 
 
 Hollinger Corp. 
 pH 8.5