Gass [___ 
 
 _____ 
 
Si- 
 
 % 
 
 YO SEMITE, ALASKA 
 
 AND THE 
 
 YELLOWSTONE. 
 
JKMES DREDGE, 
 
 THE BEST ENGLISH ADVOCATE AMERICA EVER HAD, 
 
 WHOSE NAME IS JUSTLY HONOURED 
 IN THE UNITED STATES, 
 
 LITTLE BOOK IS 
 
 AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY 
 
 THE AUTHORS. 
 
YOSEMITE, ALASKA 
 
 AND THE 
 
 YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 WILLIAM H. WILEY 
 
 AND 
 
 SARA KING 'WILEY. 
 
 I^sprintei from "(Engineering.' 
 
 LONDON : 
 OFFICES OF "ENGINEERING," 35 & 36, BEDFORD STREET, STRAND, W.C. 
 
 NEW YORK : 
 JOHN WILEY & SONS, 53, EAST TENTH STREET. 
 
\ 
 
 
 12477 
 
 1898 
 
 ^OFWAStW^ 
 
PREFACE 
 
 I HAVE been asked to introduce this book and its authors to the reader. 
 To the American public such an introduction is not only superfluous, 
 it is almost impertinent ; to the British public it is unnecessary, because 
 when the English reader has perused the book he will be on more friendly 
 terms with the authors than any words of mine can make him. He will 
 have become acquainted with some of their principal characteristics — their 
 energy, power of observation, and facility of description ; their honest 
 whole-souled patriotism and pride in being citizens of the United States. 
 
 To undertake a pleasure trip of 10,000 miles is no light task ; to carry 
 it through successfully in the company of 30 or 40 fellow travellers speaks 
 volumes for the feelings of friendship, harmony and self-control that 
 animated the band of latter-day pilgrims from first to last. And to do all 
 that in about two months, in comfort and without any mishap except the 
 little untoward incidents that add zest to travelling, bears the highest pos- 
 sible testimony to the present condition of railway organization in the 
 United States, and to the ability and organising power of Messrs. Whitcomb 
 and Co., the Cook and Son of America. Such a journey could not fail to 
 'impress the most phlegmatic American (if such a being exist) with feelings 
 of pride at the magnitude and grandeur, the wealth and the resources of 
 his country. And when Americans are enthusiastic and observant, as both 
 our authors are, what wonder is there that they should be almost appalled 
 at every stage of the journey, most of which had, up to that time, been to 
 them but a vague dream. 
 
 The circumstances under which this trip was carried out were peculiar 
 and thoroughly American. It was neither more nor less than a part of the 
 
viii Preface. 
 
 summer convention of the American Institute of Mechanical Engineers. 
 This body, although it is one of the youngest of the technical societies of 
 the United States, has grown so rapidly that its members claim for it to-day 
 the foremost place amongst similar institutions. Certainly it does not lack 
 in wealth of members, in excellence of organization, or in energy. A part 
 of its business is to hold periodical meetings in other cities than New York, 
 where its head quarters are. Prior to last year it had been far afield, and 
 had met in many places quite remote from New York. But the idea of 
 convening at San Francisco, 3000 miles distant, seemed too bold and 
 difficult of acconrplishment to any but a few of the hardier spirits of the 
 Institution. Still these prevailed, and the result was the decision of the 
 Members to hold their summer meeting on the Pacific Coast. Of course 
 these meetings are accompanied by visits to various points of interest, 
 and it was evident that the excursions on this occasion must harmonize in 
 scale with the business journey. Naturally, therefore, one of them was the 
 visit to Alaska, involving the trifling journey of two or three thousand 
 miles, while others of less magnitude were confined to the glowing lands of 
 the Pacific slopes. Our authors were of the Alaska group, and I know of 
 no record of American travel written by Americans, so fresh and bright 
 and vivid as that contained in the accompanying pages which I have had 
 the pleasure of editing (a merely nominal duty) and seeing through the 
 press. It has partly repaid me for the disappointment I felt on being com- 
 pelled to decline the pressing iuvitation I had received, to join the party. 
 Although I have had much experience, I have been unable as yet to 
 measure the length and breadth and depth of American hospitality, and I 
 resented bitterly the pressing duties at home that prevented me from 
 making one more effort to gage those dimensions. I knew, however, when 
 I learned of my good friends' intention to publish a record of their journey, 
 that I should find much compensation in my disappointment, and the result 
 has justified my confidence. 
 
 I would say to all those who have never made this journey but are 
 intending to do so, that they can not do better than take this little book 
 along with them to serve them as a guide ; while those, less fortunate, may 
 gain, with a little effort, some good idea of what nature has done throughout 
 that vast stretch of country, and also what the energy of man has been 
 able to accomplish there during the last fifty years. For the possible 
 benefit of both, I may complete this preface with a few dry facts and 
 statistics which would have been out of place in the pages of my friends' 
 
Preface. ix 
 
 story, but which may be interesting for reference to whose who desire to 
 gain an idea of the vastness and power of the United States and of its 
 sixty-six millions of people. I suppose that most persons imagine that the 
 City of San Francisco marks the western boundary of the great Eepublic. 
 So far from this being the case, it is practically the geographical centre. 
 Reckoning from the meridian of New York, San Francisco is between 
 4G and 47 deg. west, while the western boundary of Alaska extends 
 beyond 90 deg. Thus the United States of North America stretch in an 
 
 unbroken line — save for the incursion of the State of British Columbia one 
 
 quarter round the globe. 
 
 All the vast area constituting together the western States of the 
 Union is being rapidly occupied and its natural resources developed, thus 
 adding year by year at an ever-increasing rate to the riches of the United 
 States. A few words may be added about a few of these great States 
 touched upon in lighter vein by our authors, who could well be excused, in 
 the hurry of travel and under the constant influence of new emotions, from 
 dwelling upon the more serious industrial aspect of the country through 
 which they passed. 
 
 Taking first the State of Colorado — the Silver State ; apostrophised 
 thus by Joaquin Miller, " Colorado, rare Colorado ! Yonder she rests ; 
 her head of gold pillowed on the Rocky Mountains, her feet in the brown 
 grass, the boundless plains for a playground ; she is set on a hill before the 
 world, and the air is very clear so that all may see her well." So recently 
 as 1840 Colorado belonged to Mexico, and its vast area of over a hundred 
 thousand square miles was added to the United States in 1846. Fourteen 
 years later it had a population of 34,000; it was transformed from a 
 territory to one of the States of the Union in 1876, and at the last census, 
 its population had increased to 410,000. Agriculture and mining on a 
 prodigious scale are the main industries of the State, although various 
 manufactures to no mean extent are also carried on. The climate is not 
 well adapted for agriculture on account of extreme dryness, early and late 
 frosts, and the plague of locusts, but the farmers more or less overcame 
 these difficulties, and now over three million acres are in cultivation. To 
 compensate for want of rain a system of irrigation has been carried out by 
 which the water is brought from the mountains and distributed thi'ough more 
 than 35,000 miles of canals and ditches. The value of the farm products is 
 not less than three million sterling a year, and, in many parts of the States 
 fruit, including peaches and grapes, is grown in large quantities. Alfafa 
 
 
x Preface. 
 
 clover is, however, the leading product, and three million tons of this 
 crop were grown in 1889. Stock-raising, and especially sheep-farming, is 
 also another important industry. The flocks of Colorado, according to the 
 last returns, numbered two million head, and from these ten million pounds 
 of wool are sent yearly to the eastern states. Mining industries, chiefly of 
 gold and silver, add largely to the riches of the State and of the Union. 
 They was inaugurated in 1858 near Denver, now a city of about 110,000 
 inhabitants. Altogether more than sixty millions sterling in gold and silver 
 have been extracted ; to this must be added £10,000 worth of lead and 
 over a million sterling worth of copper, produced entirely from gold and 
 silver bearing ores. Almost unlimited iron deposits, chiefly hematite and 
 magnetite, with from fifty to sixty per cent of metal, are stored up for 
 future generations, for at present this mineral is but little worked. The 
 coalfields cover an area of 40,000 square miles, and the thickness of the 
 seams averages 5 ft. There are only 50 coal mines in operation in 
 Colorado, but they employ 5,400 men, who now raise annually 2 millions 
 and a half tons of coal. Petroleum, too, exists, and the twenty-five wells 
 that are in operation produce annually 150,000 barrels for lighting, and 
 about the same amount for lubricating purposes. 
 
 Montana, the Bonanza State, was traversed 150 years ago by a group 
 of French-Canadian explorers, and sixty years later the first settlements 
 were made by a Missouri fur traveller. It was not, however, until 1829 
 that the. State was even nominally settled, and at the present time its 
 population is but 132.000, or about .3 to the square mile. It is essentially 
 a region of mountains and rivers, of rolling plains and dense forests ; the 
 total area is 146,000 square miles, and these include 30 millions of acres of 
 farm land, 38 millions of grazing land, and 26 millions of woods and 
 mountains. The Missouri river takes its rise in this state and runs through 
 it for a distance of 1 300 miles ; the Yellowstone also traverses Montana for 
 a distance of 850 miles, after rising in the Yellowstone National Park in 
 the adjoining State of Wyoming, the beauties of which are so graphically 
 described in the following pages. Montana was about the last State to 
 shelter the now practically extinct North American buffalo ; only about 
 twenty years ago vast herds of them, estimated at about 8,000,000, found 
 shelter in the \vestern 'plains, but fourteen years later these had been 
 practically exterminated. The progress of Agriculture in Montana has not 
 yet reached a high state of development, and indeed the difficulties of 
 climate are very great, nevertheless the head of cattle number one million 
 
Preface. X1 
 
 and a half, and the flocks yield annually as much wool as those of the State 
 of Colorado ; horse-breeding is also an important and profitable occupa- 
 tion, and the State contributes about one million oxen annually for 
 export to the East and to Europe. Mining, however, is the chief industry 
 of Montana, and about 80 million sterling of gold and silver have been 
 .produced; then lead and copper are also found in great quantities. The 
 coal measures cover an area of 60,000 square miles, and the seams vary in 
 thickness from 6 to 20 ft. ; 300,000 tons are raised annually. 
 
 California, or Eldorado, was discovered in 1634 by Spanish travellers ; 
 Sir Francis Drake followed not long after, and regardless of any prior 
 claims he christened the country New Albion ; but Spain maintained her 
 footing on the Pacific Coast and the history of the Jesuit Missions for 
 nearly 200 years, is one of the most interesting chapters in the records of 
 North America. In 1822 the Colony renounced Spanish authority and 
 allied itself with Mexico, and for many years the only foreign trade that 
 existed was monopolised by Boston, whose merchant fleet made two-year 
 voyages along the Atlantic and Pacific shores of North and South America. 
 In 1846 the famous Captain Fremont and a small band of followers entered 
 California overland; they were speedily attacked and defeated by the 
 Mexicans, but gathering strength by the accession of stray Americans, they 
 made head against the Established Government and founded the California 
 Republic. This was the beginning of the end of Mexican rule, and in 1848 
 the State was ceded to the National Government and admitted to the 
 Union in 1850. At the present time its population is about one million and a 
 quarter, and its area is 158,000 square miles. It was in 1849 that the dis- 
 covery of gold took place, and the dreamy Pacific State was invaded by armies 
 of fortune seekers who brought with them confusion and lawlessness to which 
 the country became a prey for several years. All that, however, is a thing 
 of the past, and now the State of California is one of the chief glories of 
 the Union, as it is one of the richest. For many years mining was the 
 •chief source of wealth, but now agriculture is taking the foremost place. 
 Between the years 1849 and 1890 gold and silver to the value of 250 
 millions sterling were produced. Until recently the system most largely 
 used was that of hydraulic mining, and to furnish the water required, 5000 
 miles of aqueduct were constructed. So much damage was done, however, 
 to the agricultural interests by the vast floods thus poured into the rivers, 
 that hydraulic mining has been stopped by law except in one or two 
 ocalities. The other minerals produced by California are quicksilver 
 
xii Preface. 
 
 (two million pounds a year) ; copper, iron, sale, borax, sulphur, soda, 
 antimony and coal. California ranks next to the State of Pennsylvania in 
 its yield of petroleum, and large stores of natural gas are known to exist, 
 although they are not yet developed. It is, however, in agriculture that 
 the State of California is now most famous, for the climatic conditions are 
 favourable for almost every class of farming or fruit growing. The cereal, 
 hay, and root crops of the State are valued at fifteen million sterling yearly, 
 beet sugar factories flourish, and at least one in operation is able to deal 
 with 500 tons of roots daily. In the cultivation of fruit California is the 
 foremost State in the Union ; it is estimated that there are about 25,000,000 
 of fruit trees under cultivation, comprising the whole range of the products 
 in temperate and in some tropical regions. The orange, lemon, and olive 
 flourish with the peach, vine, and apple. About 2,000,000 boxes of rasins 
 are sent east yearly; in 1890, 33,000,000 pounds of grapes were exported, 
 as well as 2000 tons of dried peaches, 4000 tons of dried prunes, and the 
 produce of 300,000 fig trees. It was in 1858 that the State was regarded 
 as suitable for vineyards, and at the present time 200,000 acres are planted 
 with vines which produce more than 300,000 tons of grapes yearly, from 
 which about 20,000,000 gallons of wine and 1,000,000 gallons of brandy 
 are produced. The vineyards of California are 600 miles in length and 100 
 miles in width. The largest separate vineyard covers 4000 acres, and one of 
 the wine cellars is on a corresponding scale, for it has a capacity of two 
 millions and a half of gallons. This industry, however, was not a new 
 creation, for it had been introduced by the Jesuits 200 years before, and the 
 grapes grown, and the wine made by them, on a very small scale of course, 
 have not yet been surpassed. Probably, when more experience has been 
 gained, and time has been given somewhat to exhaust the too generous soil, 
 the world may have to look to California as its chief source of supply for wine. 
 The State possesses 6 million sheep, and the average production of wool is 35 
 million of pounds yearly. The cattle number about one million head, and 
 the stock yards, though not to be compared with those of Chicago, are never- 
 theless on an enormous scale. Efforts are being made to develop California 
 into a great silk producing State, and the advantages of climate promise 
 to give satisfactory results. Of smaller agricultural industries it may be 
 mentioned that the bee was acclimatised in 1854, and now in two counties 
 alone there are 50,000 hives, from which 6 million pounds of honey are 
 obtained yearly. Ostrich farming has also been introduced on a comparative 
 large scale, not with any marked result however. 
 
Preface. xiii 
 
 Washington, the Evergreen State, one of the latest admitted to the 
 Union, and the most remote from New York, has made prodigious 
 development from the date of its settlement as a territory, in 1845, to the 
 present time. Setting aside the more or less mythical stories of its 
 discovery in the sixteenth century, the credit belongs to the enterprise of 
 Boston merchantmen who, shortly after the Revolution, sailed through 
 those remote and unknown seas that form its western boundary. From 
 that time till 1845 the only inhabitants besides native tribes were the 
 agents of the fur companies — English and American — and the ownership of 
 the region was disputed by the Stars and Stripes and the Union Jack. But 
 in the year just named, the United States took possession, and defined the 
 boundaries of the territory, which gave it a length of 230 miles and a width 
 of 350 miles. Although situated in a high latitude, the climate is com- 
 paratively equable and mild, and the country is well adapted for agricultural 
 and pastoral pursuits. About 20 million acres are timber lands, 10 million 
 are arable, 5 million of pastoral lands are credited to the State, and there 
 are 10 million of wooded mountain. The wheat crop of Washington is at 
 least 1 5 million of bushels annually ; it is claimed to be the finest hop 
 growing country in the world, and lai'ge quantities of fruit are produced. 
 The tobacco crop is also becoming of great importance. As for hops, the 
 present output is 40 or 50 thousand bales a year, and large quantities are 
 brought to England. The lumber trade is, however, the most important 
 in Washington, and the production in 1890 was no less than 1,201 millions 
 of feet. The famous Douglas pines are found in this State ; they reach a 
 height of 300 ft., give spars often 150 ft. long, and planks 90 ft. in length. 
 On Puget Sound is the largest saw mill in the world. It turns out 
 90 million ft. of timber a year ; uses 3000-horse power (water and steam) ; 
 and employs 250 men. Mining will be in the future one of the great 
 industries of Washington, and is already of no mean proportions. Coal is 
 raised to the extent of 1^ million tons a year ; gold mines are profitably 
 worked, and the iron deposits are apparently boundless. The Great 
 Western Iron and Steel Company, with a capital of a million sterling, has 
 commenced operations at Kirkland on Lake Washington. Of the chief 
 towns in this State, vivid descriptions are given in the following pages. 
 
 Alaska, one of the few remaining Territories of the Union, was owned 
 by Russia until 1867, when it was purchased by America for 7,200,000 dols. 
 Its population is decreasing apparently, for in 1880 it was 33,000, and at the 
 last census only 30,000. Except for the fisheries, it produces but little at 
 
Preface. 
 
 present, though the indications are pretty clear that in the future it will be 
 one of the richest, if not the richest portion of the Union. At Juneau, 
 placer mining is carried on with profit, more than a million dollars having 
 been obtained, and about the same total value is exported yearly to San 
 Francisco. The Whalers from San Francisco and further east, obtain 
 £300 000 a year in oil and bone and ivory ; there are 30 million cans of 
 salmon and 15,000 barrels exported annually. The cod fishery is on a very 
 large scale, and of the value of the sealing trades, something is known in 
 this countrv, on account of the complications that have arisen between our- 
 selves and the United States, but which doubtless, will soon find a satis- 
 factory and friendly solution. 
 
 The actual condition and the potentiality of the Western States of 
 North America might be enlarged upon indefinitely, but I have said enough 
 perhaps by way of introduction to our authors' story. Those who seek 
 further information will find it in that admirable vacle mecimi King's 
 Handbook of the United States, to which I place myself under a further 
 obligation by reproducing the following table showing the value of the 
 natural productions of the United States in 1890. The figures tell their 
 own story. 
 
 STATISTICS FURNISHED BY THE DEPARTMENTS OF WASHINGTON. 
 
 Corn 
 
 Wheat 
 
 Oats 
 
 Barley 
 
 Rye 
 
 Buckwheat 
 
 Total Cereals 
 
 Meats 
 
 Poultry Products 
 
 Butter and Cheese 
 
 Milk Consumed 
 
 Wool 
 
 Hides, Hair, &c 
 
 Total Animal Products ... 
 
 Cotton 
 
 Market Gardens 
 
 Orchard Products 
 
 Other Products 
 
 Total Miscellaneous 
 
 Aggregate Farm Products 
 
 $ 
 
 598,000,000 
 
 342,000,000 
 
 172,000,000 
 
 27,000,000 
 
 11,000,000 
 
 7,000,000 
 
 ... $1,157,000,000 
 
 740,000,000 
 190,000,000 
 245,000,000 
 160,000,000 
 66,000,000 
 93,000,000 
 
 ... $1,494,000,000 
 
 293,000,000 
 70,000,000 
 160,000,000 
 655,000,000 
 
 ... $1,178,000,000 
 
 $3,829,000,000 
 
Preface. 
 
 Iron ... ... 
 
 107,000,000 
 
 Silver ... 
 
 60,000,000 
 
 Copper ... 
 
 34,000,000 
 
 Gold 
 
 33,000,000 
 
 Lead 
 
 16,000,000 
 
 Coal 
 
 212,000,000 
 
 Building Stone 
 
 55,000,000 
 
 Natural Gas 
 
 23,003,000 
 
 Petroleum ... ... 
 
 18,000,000 
 
 Salt 
 
 5,000,000 
 
 Other Minerals 
 
 21,000,000 
 
 Total Mineral Products 
 
 §584,000,000 
 
 Grand Yearly Aggregate 
 
 $4,413,000,000 
 
 Without any misgiving on my friends' account as to the reception 
 which " The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone " will obtain at the 
 hands of the English speaking public on both sides of the Atlantic, I offer 
 them in advance my congratulations, on the artistic character of their 
 volume, and on their fresh and novel treatment of a noble subject. 
 
 James Dredge. 
 
 London, March, 1S93 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Fbontispiec 
 
 Fig. 
 
 1. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 2, 
 
 Fig. 
 
 3. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 4. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 5. 
 
 Fig- 
 
 G. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 7- 
 
 Fig. 
 
 8. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 9. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 10. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 11. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 12. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 13. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 14. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 15. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 16. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 17. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 18. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 19-22 
 
 Fig. 
 
 23. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 24. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 25. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 26. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 27. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 28. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 29. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 30. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 31. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 32. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 33. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 34. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 35. 
 
 Map of the West Shore Railway 
 Tunnel under West Point... 
 
 The Cats-kill Falls 
 
 Bridge between Sister Islands, Niagara 
 
 The Horseshoe Fall 
 
 The Rock of Ages 
 
 The Rapids above the Falls 
 The Rapids below the Falls 
 Horseshoe Canon, Ottawa, Illinois 
 
 The City of Manitou 
 
 Teapot Rock, Garden of the Cods 
 
 Mother Grundy, Garden of the Gods 
 
 Cathedral Spires, Garden of the Gods 
 
 The Gateway and Pike's Peak 
 
 The Seven Falls, C hey line Canon, Colorado 
 
 View of Train, Manitou and Pike's Peak Railroad 
 
 Locomotive for Manitou and Pike's Peak Railroad 
 
 Englefield's Canon, Manitou and Pike's Peak Railroad 
 
 Details of Rackrail and Locomotive, Manitou and Pike's Pe 
 
 Pike's Peak Avenue 
 
 High Line Canal, Platte Canon ... 
 
 Acqueduct on the Platte Canal ... 
 
 A Curve in Clear Creek Canon ... 
 
 Upper End of Loop near Georgetown ; Union Pacific Railw 
 
 Loop near Georgetown ; Union Pacific Railway 
 
 Viaduct at lower end of Loop, near Georgetown 
 
 The City of Silver Plume 
 
 Platte Canon 
 
 Royal (iorge, Grand Canon of Arkansas 
 
 Group of Rocks in the Garden of the Gods 
 
 Pike's Peak ; Rocky Mountain ... 
 
 U. S. Signal Station on Pike's Peak 
 
 ik Ra 
 
 oad. 
 
 9 
 12 
 13 
 14 
 15 
 1G 
 16 
 18 
 21 
 22 
 23 
 24 
 27 
 31 
 32 
 33 
 34 
 36 
 37 
 38 
 39 
 41 
 45 
 46 
 47 
 
List of Illustrations. 
 
 Fig. 36. The Ute Pass 
 
 Fig. 37. William's Canon ... 
 
 Fig. 38. Mount Ouray 
 
 Fig. 39. Black Caflon of the Gunnison ; the Currencati Needle 
 
 Fig. 40. The Mining Town of Ouray 
 
 Fig. 41. The Lake of Cristoval ... 
 
 Fig. 42. Caflon of Las Animas Perdidas 
 
 Fig. 43. Mountain Railway in the Animas Caflon 
 
 Fig. 44. The Toltec Gorge 
 
 Fig. 45. The Portal; Grand River Caflon... 
 
 Fig. 46. Tunnel on the Grand River Caflon 
 
 Fig. 47. Glenwood Springs 
 
 Fig. 48. The Castle Gate ; Price River Caflon 
 
 Fig. 49. Brigham Young ... 
 
 Fig. 50. The Mormon Temple 
 
 Fig. 51. Interior of Mormon Tabernacle ... 
 
 Fig. 52. The Assembly Hall, Salt Lake City 
 
 Fig. 53. The Grave of Brigham Young ... 
 
 Fig. 54. Railway Map between Denver and Ogde 
 
 Fig. 55. The Capitol of Sacramento 
 
 Fig. 56. Hotel del Monte ... 
 
 Fig. 57. The Arizona Garden 
 
 Fig. 58. The Carmel Mission 
 
 Fig. 59. CaltonHall 
 
 Fig. 60. Grove of Cypress Trees 
 
 Fig. 61. Monument of Father Junipero Serra 
 
 Fig. 62. The San Antonio Mission 
 
 Fig. 63. Main Corridor, Leland Stanford University 
 
 Fig. 64. Quadrangle, Leland Stanford University 
 
 Fig. 65. Encina Hall, Leland Stanford University 
 
 Fig. 66. The Leland Stanford Museum 
 
 Fig. 67. The Leland Stanford Mausoleum 
 
 Fig. 68. Power House, Leland Stanford University 
 
 Fig. 69. The City Hall, San Francisco 
 
 Fig. 70. The Golden Gate 
 
 Fig. 71. The Cliff House, San Francisco 
 
 Fig. 72. Seal Rocks, San Francisco 
 
 Fig. 73. Sea Lions, San Francisco 
 
 Fig. 74. C. A. Cooke 
 
 Fig. 75. San Francisco to the Yosemite ... 
 
 Fig. 76. The Yosemite Valley 
 
 Fig. 77. The Yosemite from Artist Point 
 
 Fig. 78. The Yosemite Valley ; the Bridal Veil... 
 
 Fig. 79. The Yosemite Valley ; El Capitan 
 
 Fig. 80. The Yosemite Valley ; the Cathedral Spires 
 
 Fig. 81. The Yosemite Valley ; Sentinel Rock ... 
 
 Fig. 82. The Yosemite Valley ; Mirror Lake 
 
 Fig. 83. The "Wawona," Sequoia Gigantea 
 
 Fig. 84. Miss Sara King Wiley 
 
 Fig. 85. Street in Portland 
 
 49 
 50 
 54 
 55 
 57 
 58 
 61 
 62 
 63 
 65 
 66 
 67 
 69 
 71 
 72 
 73 
 74 
 79 
 81 
 85 
 86 
 
 90 
 91 
 92 
 93 
 93 
 95 
 95 
 95 
 
 99 
 101 
 102 
 102 
 104 
 110 
 110 
 113 
 114 
 115 
 116 
 117 
 118 
 122 
 123 
 126 
 
Fig. 
 
 86. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 87. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 88. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 89. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 90. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 91. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 92. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 93. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 94. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 95. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 96. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 97. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 98. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 99. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 100. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 101. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 102. 
 
 Fig- 
 
 103. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 104. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 105. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 106. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 107. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 108. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 109. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 110. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 111. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 112. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 113. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 114. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 115. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 116. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 117. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 118. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 119. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 120. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 121. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 122. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 123. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 124. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 125. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 126. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 127. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 128. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 129. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 130. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 131. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 132. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 133. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 134. 
 
 Fig 
 
 135. 
 
 List of Illustrations. 
 
 Synagogue, Portland 127 
 
 Willamette Falls, Columbia River 127 
 
 Oneonta Gorge, Columbia River 128 
 
 Multnomah Falls, Columbia Biver 129 
 
 The Pillars, Columbia River 129 
 
 The Dalles of the Columbia River 130 
 
 Old Block House, Columbia River 131 
 
 Cape Horn, Columbia River 133 
 
 The Town of Tacoma 135 
 
 Pacific Avenue, Tacoma 136 
 
 Fishing in Puget Sound 136 
 
 Northern Pacific Railway Shops, Tacoma 137 
 
 Mount Tacoma 138 
 
 Hop Field, Washington 138 
 
 Seattle in 1859 140 
 
 Pioneer Building, Seattle 141 
 
 New York Block, Seattle 141 
 
 Court House, Seattle ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 142 
 
 Logging Camp, Seattle ... ... ... ... 143 
 
 Whaleback Steamer, Everett ... ... ... ... 145 
 
 Hewitt Avenue, Everett ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 146 
 
 Fort Wrangel, Alaska 150 
 
 Totem Poles, Fort Wrangel ... 151 
 
 Indian Grave, Fort Wrangel ... ... ... 151 
 
 Juneau, the Capital of Alaska ... ... ... ... 154 
 
 The Town of Sitka 157 
 
 Glacier Bay 161 
 
 The Muir Glacier 161 
 
 The Muir Glacier 161 
 
 The Muir Glacier 161 
 
 Spokane Falls 170 
 
 Deer Park 170 
 
 East Entrance to Horse Plain, Montana 170 
 
 Helena, Montana 170 
 
 Plan of the Yellowstone Park 172 
 
 Minerva Terrace, Yellowstone Park ... 174 
 
 The Devil's Well, Yellowstone Park 175 
 
 The Great Falls of the Yellowstone 177 
 
 The Castle Geyser Formation, Yellowstone Park 180 
 
 The Grand Geyser, Yellowstone Park 182 
 
 The Splendid Geyser, Yellowstone Park 184 
 
 West Hotel, Minneapolis 187 
 
 The Boston Block, Minneapolis 187 
 
 Globe Block, St. Paul 189 
 
 Nicollet Avenue, St. Paul 189 
 
 Minnehaha Falls ... ... 190 
 
 Minnesota State Capitol 190 
 
 High School, St. Paul 191 
 
 Scene in Minnesota ... 192 
 
 Summit Avenue, St. Paul 192 
 
List of Illustrations. 
 
 Fig. 136. The Yellowstone from the first Canon 
 
 Fig. 137. Cliffs near the Yellowstone 
 
 Fig. 138. Hot Springs Terrace 
 
 Fig. 139. A Basin Formation 
 
 Fig. 140. The Cap of Liberty 
 
 Fig. 141. Hymen's Terrace 
 
 Fig. 142. Cliffs near the Yellowstone 
 
 Fig. 143. Tower Falls 
 
 Fig. 144. The Upper Fall of the Yellowstone 
 
 Fig. 145. Point Lookout 
 
 Fig 146. Grand Canon from Point Lookout 
 
 Fig. 147. The Grand Caiion 
 
 Fig. 148. The Grand Canon 
 
 Fig. 149. The Paint Pots 
 
 Fig. 150. The Grotto Geyser Cone 
 
 Fig. 151. The Giant Geyser 
 
 Fig. 152. The Castle Geyser 
 
 Fig. 153. The Comet Geyser 
 
 Fig. 154. Beehive Geyser 
 
 Fig. 155. Group of Geysers ... 
 
 Fig. 156. Old Faithful Geyser 
 
 Fig. 157. The Falls of the Gibbon 
 
 
 
 .. 198 
 
 
 
 .. 200 
 
 
 
 .. 203 
 
 
 
 .. 205 
 
 
 
 .. 207 
 
 
 
 .. 208 
 
 
 
 .. 211 
 
 
 
 .. 213 
 
 
 
 .. 213 
 
 
 
 .. 215 
 
 
 
 .. 216 
 
 
 
 .. 217 
 
 
 
 217 
 
 
 
 .. 222 
 
 
 
 .. 223 
 
 
 
 .. 224 
 
 
 
 .. 225 
 
 
 
 .. 225 
 
 
 
 .. 227 
 
 
 
 .. 227 
 
 
 
 .. 229 
 
 
 
 .. 229 
 
THE YOSEMITE, ALASKA, AND THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 WHILE the journey, of which a description will be attempted in the 
 following pages, is intimately associated with the famous trip of the 
 American Society of Mechanical Engineers to their San Francisco Conven- 
 tion in the spring of 1892, yet there are mingled with this special experience 
 so many matters of considerable interest that the writers trust the narrative 
 will be found sufficiently attractive, simply as the story of the journey, 
 to warrant its perusal without the introduction of any detailed reference 
 to the real business of the Convention. 
 
 The starting point of the mechanical engineers was the office of 
 Messrs. Eaymond and Whitcomb, of New York, whose "vacation" 
 excursions are the delight of every one who has ever participated in them. 
 It is not the object of the writers to "boom" these gentlemen, much as they 
 may deserve it, but the members of the society would consider their 
 historians as ungrateful in the extreme if they failed to chronicle how much 
 they were indebted to the careful and thoughtful plans of this firm, not 
 alone for their comfort, but absolutely for their happiness. To begin with, 
 we furnished simply ourselves to be taken care of, lodged, fed, transported, 
 and entertained. We had not even the care of our hand-baggage, while as 
 for our trunks, they were in a baggage car, and could be opened at any 
 time during the journey. It was most emphatically the luxury of 
 travelling. The train was one of the best equipped in the railway service, 
 and consisted of special sleeping-cars with numerous state-rooms for family 
 parties, and a dining-car, while at the end was what is known as a combina- 
 tion car for lounging, smoking, and reading; it contained a bath-room, 
 barber's chair, and other accessories of modern civilisation. The train was 
 drawn by one of the best engines in the West Shore service. The speed 
 was frequently a mile in 55 seconds, but that never interfered with either 
 reading or writing, for the West Shore line was built in the most thorough 
 ■wW b 
 
2 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 manner possible, and at so small a regard to expense as to leave the 
 original subscribers to wonder how so much money could have been spent 
 in so short a distance. To the engineer, however, there is little difficulty 
 in seein^ that the road was constructed to stay, and that every engineering 
 obstacle was met by a free expenditure of money. 
 
 A railroad map always is instructive, and the reader is recommended 
 to study the one given of the West Shore Railway in order to better 
 understand the commencement of the trip (see Fig. 1 annexed). The 
 first duty of the maker of such a map is to show his company's line, even 
 if only a small one, very straight, and in heavy black, and to make all 
 others, especially all competing lines, as crooked as possible, and as lines in 
 the strictly geometrical sense, with plenty of length, but with neither 
 breadth nor thickness. Length indeed is the great desideratum ; they must 
 be longer than the route shown, and if unfortunately they are not, why they 
 have to be made so, even if the face of the country has to be changed. The 
 West Shore map is no exception. The course of its line is so broad as to 
 blot out the New York Central, even where the latter is a four-track road, 
 and Lake Ontario is conveniently pulled down at its western corner to show 
 a short route to Hamilton. Of course, when the New York Central map 
 maker starts in, he reciprocates in kind, and so " honours are easy." 
 
 Starting from New York earl}' in the morning of May 4, we looked 
 our last at the city as we crossed the Weehawken Ferry, gazing over the 
 beautiful harbour, its shores lined with high-masted steamers, its waters 
 alive with boats of all sizes, with the statue " Liberty," grey in the 
 distance, and the gilded dome of the " World" building shining out over 
 the irregular roofs of the city. At Weehawken we entered our special 
 train and sped out across the Jersey meadows, the birthplace but, unfortu- 
 nately, not the abiding place, of the world-famed mosquito. As we flew 
 along, the gaunt lines of telegraph poles seemed to stalk away across the 
 brown stretches of plain to the low hills on the horizon. For a short 
 distance our way lay through fertile New Jersey, just springing into green 
 life, with the farmers ploughing in the fields ; then we passed into New 
 York, and as we issued from a tunnel near Nyack, a view of the Hudson 
 burst upon us, an expanse like the sea, bounded by lines of green hills, 
 Storm King opposite shelving to the water's edge, and an outlook down the 
 sweeping curves of the river, where the mountains seemed to open to let it 
 pass and to stand aside one behind the other. This is aptly called the Gate 
 of the Hudson, and here in earlier times stretched that iron chain which 
 
Fig 1. Map of the West Shore Railroad and Connections. 
 
West Point; the Mohawk Valley. o 
 
 Washington placed to keep back the British cruisers. We now passed 
 through a tunnel, and under the parade-ground at West Point, where our 
 Government has probably the finest military academy in the world, an 
 institution on which it did not call in vain in that great struggle for the 
 preservation of the Union in 1861. Fig. 2 shows the road at this point, 
 and in the centre above, may be seen the roof of the Riding Academy, 
 where the cadets are taught to stick to a horse till the force of gravity 
 insists on its rights being recognised, and then to fall gracefully into the 
 sawdust. In the distance appeared the Hotel Kaaterskill, perched on the top 
 
 Fig. 2. Tunnel under West Point. 
 
 of the mountains and overlooking the valley. Those of the party who had 
 attended the Convention of the Civil Engineers, held there some 3 ears ago, 
 found their minds running back to that pleasant and festive occasion, and 
 recalled the picture shown in Fig. 3, which is an engraving of the Catskill 
 Falls in this neighbourhood. AVe now began to slip along the Mohawk 
 Valley, and parallel with that great artery of trade, the Erie Canal. On 
 the opposite side appeared the trans-continental train of the New York 
 Central, intending to show us how easily it would throw dust in our eyes. 
 But our engine was quite equal to its task, and its engineer had no wish for 
 a second place ; so after running five miles in 4 min. 50 sec, we left the 
 Blue Train to its own devices. There were none of the usual discomforts 
 
4 Tin 1 Vosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone 
 
 of travel on this trip. The cars were well ventilated and easy running, and 
 even the element of dust was eradicated, for the country was brilliant from 
 recent rains, the brooks were brown and turbulent, and pools of water were 
 in the fields. It was now time to visit the combination car, to smoke and 
 
 Fig. 3. The Oatskill Falls. 
 
 lounge, and, as Washington Irving has said, "he who smokes thinks like a 
 philosopher," so there were those who went to the writing-rooms and 
 chronicled their thoughts in imperishable ink, or, selecting a book from the 
 
Niagara. 5 
 
 shelves of a well-chosen library, found thus one of the pleasant pastimes of 
 the journey. The sight of the Erie Canal brought to our minds the 
 apparent indifference of our legislators to this great highway ; for while our 
 more or less hostile Canadian neighbours have been deepening and enlarging 
 the Welland Canal, so that a man-of-war could easily pass through, we do 
 little more than scrape away the mud periodically in our canal, although its 
 enlargement and deepening would be neither difficult nor expensive. At 
 about nine we reached Niagara and going into the vestibule as we passed 
 across the bridge, we looked down on one &ide and saw the dark tranquil 
 river gliding between black lines of trees, while from the other side we 
 heard the roar and crash of seething water and saw the white flash of the 
 foaming rapids. This scene is familiar to many, and the reader is referred 
 to Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, for some very characteristic views of the falls, and 
 of the rapids above and below them. 
 
 Fig. 4. Biudge between Sister Islands, Niagara. 
 
 On Thursday morning we awoke to hear the clatter of a driving storm 
 and to see the level green landscape without, show dimly through a 
 wavering curtain of- rain. A little later we found ourselves in a very 
 flood — fields and villages inundated. One man, wiser than his fellows, had 
 
Fig. 5. The Horseshoe Fall 
 
Fig. 6. The Rock of Ages. 
 
10 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 a boat tied to his fence, and in another yard the bedraggled chickens were 
 assembled in a mournful group on the wood pile, apparently reflecting as to 
 when the Ark and Capt. Noah might be expected. 
 
 One of the great attractions on the Chicago and Grand Trunk line, 
 which we next entered upon, and which was advertised as a cogent reason 
 for taking it, was the "wonderful St. Clair Tunnel, that great triumph of 
 engineering skill," that " subjection of the forces of nature," &e. Whether 
 it was not on exhibition just then, or was out of humour, or what not, it is 
 impossible to say, but we passed through during the hours of the night ; 
 however, the writers were bound to see it, and although it can hardly be said 
 truthfully that they really saw it, they were wide awake enough to make 
 affidavit that they heard it, and that we rushed through it at a good fair 
 speed. Nothing of note occurred on this part of the trip, and in due time, 
 after a most excellent breakfast provided for us by our conductors, and 
 quite superior to the best Pullman service we had ever experienced, we 
 reached Chicago about noon, that is, we reached its limits, but in fact we 
 stopped about five miles outside — you can stop a long way outside Chicago 
 — and from here we took carriages and drove to the Exposition grounds. 
 These grounds were somewhat out of repair, and were a complete refutation 
 to the statement we have no ruins in America. Here we first rode in the 
 ingenious travelling walk and saw the Women's Building, which was 
 sufficiently constructed to give a clear idea of its appearance. It is to 
 be a handsome and artistic structure ; the noble and graceful figures 
 sustaining the roof being particularly noticeable. The enormous skeleton of 
 the Building of Mechanical and Liberal Arts next claimed our attention. 
 The facts about this structure are simply overwhelming. It is the largest 
 building in the world — everything, by the way, in Chicago is the " largest 
 in the world ;" they can't help it, it so happens — being five times the size 
 of the Coliseum at Rome, and having an area of over 30 acres. The 
 Administration Building will be a very handsome structure and the 
 colossal statues which are to ornament it were examined with great interest. 
 All are strong and beautiful, but the group " Patriotism " is especially 
 fine. The sight of rows and rows of enormous heads, wings, and limbs 
 on the floor was novel and interesting, but vaguely suggestive of a 
 nightmare. Do not let the reader think our tour of the Exposition 
 ground was made in carriages ; so extensive are they that we were obliged 
 to go by railroad, and even then had but little time at each point. The 
 mechanical features were the ones which were most attractive to this party, 
 
Chicago; a Waste of Waters. 11 
 
 and as the chief engineer and some of his assistants were members of the 
 Society and were present, we had rare opportunities for seeing what is to 
 be, as well as to comment on what was. 
 
 Re-entering our carriages we next drove towards the heart of the city 
 down Drexel Boulevard and Madison Avenue, admiring the many broad 
 roads stretching in all directions and the lines of handsome residences. 
 After visiting the machine works of Fraser and Chalmers we returned to 
 the train, where we learned that " washouts" had blocked all exit from 
 Chicago, and that we must remain overnight. By the courtesy of Mr. 
 Wm. Chalmers, who first sent beautiful bouquets to our train for the ladies 
 and then invited the entire party to attend the theatre, we all passed a 
 delightful evening, and next morning walked about the city until eleven, 
 when we started westward, proceeding slowly through the flooded country. 
 In many places the tracks had been only temporarily sustained. The great 
 tracts of level pasture land looked like a shining lake; in one place we could 
 see ten miles of water, with here and there a small house appearing 
 submerged to the second floor. As the afternoon drew on the scene was 
 a beautiful one ; the gold and crimson of the sunset clouds dyed the waste 
 of waters, and the delicate new foliage of the trees was pale yellow against 
 the deep blue sky. In some places the train crawled slowly over a track 
 that waved in curves frequently reversed, while the rails being shored up 
 on temporary cribwork, trestling, and the like, caused the car to tip from 
 side to side, which kept up a certain amount of interest in our progress. 
 A curved line is undoubtedly a line of beauty, but a vertical curve on a 
 railroad track does not conduce to sesthetical thoughts. The water in many 
 cases covered the rails entirely, and photographs were taken at frequent 
 intervals, for we had a full complement of the Kodak fiend, in fact, they 
 were so largely in the majority that, perhaps, they should be considered as 
 in the normal condition, while we, who were not, might be called the 
 anti-camera lunatics. One of the most attractive bits of scenery on the 
 Rock Island Route is given in Fig. 9, and a glance at the map will show 
 the locality as being between Chicago and Rock Island. The mapmaker 
 has again kindly taken out all curvatures, and the reader will notice that 
 the Rock Island route is positively a bee-line from Chicago to Omaha. 
 If he don't find it so in practice that is no fault of the mapmaker, who 
 certainly has done his best in the case. 
 
 That evening we reached Rock Island, where the Government has one 
 of its finest arsenals, and crossed the Mississippi under the soft light of the 
 
12 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 full moon. The river was greatly swollen by the recent rains, and looked 
 almost like the ocean, but the tracks were so high that the Hoods caused no 
 delay nor even anxiety. 
 
 Saturday morning, May 7, found us speeding over the fertile pasture 
 lands rolling in green billows to the horizon and clotted with herds of cattle, 
 the horses in their winter coats looking as if they were sadly in need of a 
 shave or were developing into the celebrated winged steeds of antiquity. 
 At Council Bluffs we stopped a short time, and one of the party bought a 
 
 Fig. 9. Hoeseshoe Canon, Ottawa, Illinois. 
 
 paper, which banner of the hustling West was dated Sunday, May 8 ; an 
 issue twenty- four hours in advance seeming to be considered the proper sort 
 of enterprise in a western journal. However, he was equal to the occasion, 
 and said immediately, " Here, I don't want this back number, give me 
 Monday's paper." 
 
 The cameras had been diligently at work all day, and the owners met 
 to compare notes, when it appeared that one gentleman who had been 
 particularly active and who was under the impression that he must have 
 
Nebraska. 
 
 13 
 
 nearly exhausted his films, found that he had been taking pictures all day 
 on a white paper roll, which is used to teach beginners, he having, in his 
 desire to get everything, entirely forgotten to remove this practice sheet. 
 During this day's trip we were frequently in doubt as to our further progress, 
 for we were crossing the level country in Nebraska, and the water was on 
 all sides. To add to the complication the engine seemed tired (of course the 
 wheels were so), and had a fashion of getting off the track to rest at intervals, 
 and this involved considerable hard work and much harder language on the 
 part of the train men. After two of these rests it appeared that a tender 
 axle was bent so as to compel the greatest caution in proceeding, and just 
 
 Fig. 10. The City of Manitou. 
 
 then it began to rain as if it never had rained before. The storm increased 
 and the waters were rising, again threatening to cut off further progress, but 
 fortunately for us we obtained another engine and sped off westward at a 
 rapid pace. The danger was not imaginary, for the waters rose so rapidly 
 as to cut off travel for a week, our train being the last one which passed. 
 That night the entire party assembled in one car and had a sort of variety 
 show. There were orations, historical stories, banjo playing, and musical 
 performances. The thunder furnished the applause and the lightning 
 illuminated the darkness outside, while the tremendous rain on the roof was 
 a suitable accompaniment. All this went on as we sped west into Colorado 
 at 60 miles an hour. The next morning we waked up into a bitterly cold 
 
u 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstont 
 
 climate, and over the bare brown stretches of prairie drove a whirling 
 snowstorm, followed by clouds of grey fog. A tiny little calf separated from 
 a herd of cattle stood shivering in the wind and roused our sympathy as we 
 shot past him. We reached Manitou, shown in Fig. 10, at 9 a.m., and in 
 front of us were the gaunt, ragged foot-hills of the Rockies, their low pines 
 and greyish furze powered thick with snow ; while Pike's Peak formed a 
 background of grandeur unsurpassed. Although it was not actually raining 
 the sky was overcast and the air laden with moisture. Carriages were in 
 readiness, and we drove to the wonderful Garden of the Gods. On every 
 
 Fig. 11. Teapot Hock, Garden of the Gods. 
 
 side were the strange red rocks in numberless fantastic forms as though 
 tossed by Titans ; gigantic toadstools, weird and comic faces, animals, and 
 even fish. Some of these are to be noted in Figs. 11,12 and 13. Wild yellow 
 sweet peas and unknown bell-like blossoms of blue and purple grew among 
 the short spare grass. Before us was the gateway to the garden rising 
 400 ft. in height, shown in Fig. 14, looking through which we saw the low 
 hills, their delicate grey -green shades contrasting beautifully with the deep 
 red of the great boulders. Passing through the gateway we turned and saw 
 the Rockies, towering through drifting mists, peak behind peak, snow- 
 crowned, vast, and rugged, with Pike's Peak capped in snow for a 
 gigantic background. Then passing on through the garden the clouds to the 
 westward swept away atid the pure silver sky shone out behind the dark- 
 
The Garden of the Gods. 
 
 15 
 
 green foothills, while above, the white mist coiled and uncoiled about the 
 ragged summits, and a sudden rift in the clouds let a single ray of sunlight 
 fall on the gleaming snows of Pike's Peak, which rises to some 14,400 ft. 
 above the sea level. On we drove, past the clashing Rainbow Falls to the 
 delicious iron spring and to the wonderful cave. Here, lamp in hand, we 
 passed down a narrow pathway deep into the ground. Curious and beautiful 
 stalactites hung dripping above us, with crystals glittering like diamonds. 
 
 Fig. 12. Mother Grundy, Garden of the Gods. 
 
 We stopped in one vast dim cavern, where the rocks over our heads shelved 
 up into a great black void, and from a sort of balcony a man played on a 
 natural organ formed of stalactites of varying size. The sweet but hollow 
 music echoed weirdly through the great vault in faint tones. Then our 
 guide struck another formation, which gave forth the deep ring of a chime 
 of bells. 
 
Fin. 13. Cathedral Spires, Garden of the Gods. 
 
 Fkj. 14. The Gateway and Pike's Peak. 
 
The Garden of the Gods. 17 
 
 There are many interesting trips to be taken at Manitou, and if one 
 could only be left to enjoy them at leisure and in peace, a much better 
 impression would be given to the visitor. But you are continually called 
 upon by the guide to admire this or that feature from the standpoint of some 
 one else's imagination. For instance, while in the Garden of the Gods, 
 where the mind naturally reverts to that time when this was undoubtedly 
 the bottom of a great inland sea, whose waters have, by steady attrition for 
 years and centuries, worn the rocks into the curious shapes presented, and 
 when one thinks of the littleness of the present race and the short time of 
 their tenure upon earth, it is most rasping to be suddenly startled by 
 " Mister, that ere rock is called the Dutchman, since it looks like Hans, 
 and next to it is Hans' wife and the baby." Or, " This rock is the Eagle 
 and the Bear, showing the eagle in the act of attacking the bear." 
 You feel like attacking the speaker, and one of the ladies told him 
 she had no imagination and never could see resemblances, and did not 
 want to ; but this only stimulated him to try and make them so unmis- 
 takable that she must admit them. The visit to the Grand Cavern is 
 worthy of the time and trouble, for, in the writers' opinion, it ranks next in 
 beauty to the celebrated Luray Cave of Va. ; moreover, the trip itself 
 through the Canon (Ute Pass) and by Rainbird Falls repays the visitor. 
 In the cavern is Grant's Monument made by piling loose stones in a 
 pyramidal form, each visitor adding one. Some bones are also shown you, 
 said to be those of a cave dweller ; as they cannot be inspected, the chances 
 are that the bones are much more modern and most probably those of some 
 unfortunate cat or dog, who, having seen the Grand Cavern, was so over- 
 come that it died there. " See Rome and die," why not then do the same 
 at Manitou ? The writer preferred to live and to go to Cheyenne Canon, 
 not to see where " H. H." was buried, but to see the seven falls rising one 
 above another to a height of 500 ft., as shown in Fig. 15. 
 
 All the various canons are well worth exploration. The scenery is so 
 varied that there is no semblance of monotony, and each is impressively 
 grand in its own individual way. Nor should the tourist omit the ride 
 to the summit of Pike's Peak. In 1885, the ascent was extremely 
 difficult, and had to be made on mule back, but now there is a railway, that 
 a digression may profitably be made to describe. 
 
 The preliminary surveys for this road* were commenced in April, 1888, 
 
 * This description of the Manitou and Pike's Peak Railroad was contributed by Mr. J. G. 
 True, of Denver. 
 
18 The YosemitP, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 under the immediate supervision of Mr. D. E. Briggs, chief engineer of the 
 Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. On the 1st of April, Mr. T. F. 
 Richardson, chief engineer, and his assistants, reached the top of the Peak 
 with four day's rations, in a very severe snowstorm. It was impossible for 
 them to leave the protecting walls of the old Government station, built of 
 stone, until compelled to join the main body on account of hunger, and it 
 
 Fig. 15. The Seven Falls, Cheyenne Canon, Colorado. 
 
 took them ten hours to travel the one and a half miles to do so. Such 
 experiences were frequent until June, when the snow had melted and the 
 labour was less dangerous and more easy. On September 28, 1889, grading 
 was begun at the summit, and before the winter storms set in, three miles 
 of roadbed were completed. In 1890 three additional miles were graded, 
 the road was practically finished, and some testing trials and excursions 
 made. 
 
 The objective point, or upper terminus of the railway, which has been 
 built for the same purpose as those up the Rigi, Mont Pilatus, and other 
 summits of favourite summer resort, is at the top of the perpetually snow- 
 
Manitou and Pikes Peak Railroad. 19 
 
 mantled summit of Pike's Peak, 14,336 ft. above the sea level. Its lower 
 terminal is Manitou. And here, before proceeding, let us say a word about 
 Manitou. As with Pike's Peak — though its historic notoriety is less wide- 
 spread — there are many thousands who either know or have been told of its 
 wonders, and yet other thousands to whom the name sounds strange and 
 meaningless. Lying securely protected among the picturesque foothills 
 which cluster around Pike's Peak, and not more than seven miles, as a 
 carrier pigeon would travel, from the giant's summit, is the most charming 
 resort in the known world, and that is Manitou. The most nearly perfect 
 climate yet discovered, the medicinal value of its numerous mineral springs, 
 and the rarity and magnificence of its scenery, are the prime causes which 
 give it claim to that distinction ; and since its first inhabitation, which dates 
 but a few years back, its popularity and prosperity have been remarkable, 
 and now its visitors number more than one hundred and twenty-five 
 thousand annually, and are largely on the increase with each successive 
 season. 
 
 Several years ago it was determined — contrary to the theory of Major 
 Zebulon Pike, who discovered and named the promontory in 1806 — that its 
 ascent was possible, and the United States War Department, eager for so 
 lofty a point of observation, established a signal station upon its highest 
 point. With this the summit began to be visited by the more adventure- 
 some tourists. Horse trails were constructed along the various water- 
 courses, and travel over them increased rapidly. What is known as the 
 Ruxton trail, bordering the beautiful Ruxton Creek directly from Manitou 
 — the shortest and most interesting road (for the scenery approaching this 
 mountain is indescribably grand) — was ever the most popular route, and was 
 travelled by thousands every summer. 
 
 The railway has no counterpart on the American continent, though it 
 is somewhat similar to the road at Mount Washington. It is of standard 
 gauge, with wide and substantially built roadbed and heavy steel rails, the 
 traction devolving upon two heavy serrated rails in the centre upon which 
 operate six cog-wheels underneath the locomotive. It is built upon the Abt 
 system (in use in Switzerland), and the peculiar mechanical construction of 
 both track and locomotive render it absolutely safe. The length of the 
 track is about 8|- miles, or to be exact, 46,158 ft., in which there is a 
 total ascent of 7500 ft. The steepest grades are 25 per cent, or a rise of 
 1 ft. in 4 ft., and there is very little of the track on a grade of less than 12^ 
 per cent. There are many curvatures, nearly 40 per cent, of the line being 
 
20 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 on curves, the sharpest of which is 16 cleg. The bridges are entirely of iron 
 and masonry, and the track in the steepest places is solidly anchored every 
 200 ft. 
 
 The present passenger equipment of the road consists of three locomo- 
 tives and six passenger coaches. The locomotives are peculiar in appearance 
 and weigh 25 tons each. They push the cars on the ascent and precede 
 them on the descent, thus giving the engineer absolute control of the train 
 should any breakage occur in the couplings. The coaches are elegant, 
 largely of glass to facilitate observation along the route. Each has a 
 capacity for fifty persons, and the seats are so arranged that passengers 
 have at all times a level sitting. (See views in Figs. 16 and 17.) 
 
 The locomotives will each push two coaches and will make the trip up 
 in less than two hours, including a stop at the Half-way House station, a 
 beautiful retreat in Ruxton Park. 
 
 The care, safety, and rapidity of this new means of transit to Pike's 
 Peak will add largely to the already large tourist travel in that direction. 
 No visitor to Manitou, or even to Colorado, will wish to miss a trip so 
 novel and beautiful, as will be seen from Fig. 18. 
 
 The following information has been supplied by Major John Hulbert, 
 president of the company, originator of the scheme, and who has been 
 untiring in his efforts to complete it. The entire length of the road will be 
 8f miles, and the roadbed is 15 ft. wide. Every 200 ft. or 400 ft., accord- 
 ing to the grade, are sunk cross-sections of masonry, to which the track is 
 tied, so that absolute rigidity is secured. There is not a single foot of 
 trestle-work on the entire line, and only three short bridges, these being 
 constructed of iron. The maximum curvature is 16 deg., which gives a 
 radius of 359 ft. The average ascent per mile is 1320 ft. The total rise 
 from base to summit is 7525 ft. The road is laid with 40 lb. steel rails ; 
 between these, in the centre of the track, are placed two cog-rails, made of 
 steel. This central rack rail is composed of two parallel steel bars l\ in. 
 thick, and placed 1^ in. apart, in such a way that the tooth in one plate is 
 opposite the space in the other plate. The pitch of the teeth is 4f in., and 
 the depth 2 in. ; the rack is attached to every alternate sleeper, at distances 
 of 3 ft. 6 in., by plate chairs, and shown in Fig. 20 on page 24, and fixed by 
 -§ in. bolts. On the Mount Washington road, and on that up the Bigi, the 
 middle rail is constructed upon the principle of a ladder. This is cumber- 
 some, and only allows a speed of about three miles an hour. The speed 
 attainable on the Pike's Peak road is intended to be 17 miles, but the 
 
o 
 
24 
 
 Tlie Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone 
 
 maximum rate will not be over eight miles, and the average not more than 
 four miles. One cog-rail would be amply sufficient to do all the work, but 
 two are inserted to insure safety. The engines are built by the Baldwin 
 Company, of Philadelphia ; when on a level track, they stand at an 8 per 
 cent, slant, and thus when the cars and engine are on the grade they are 
 approximately level. The general design of the engine calls for no special 
 remark ; the cylinders are 18 in. diameter, and the stroke 2 ft. ; to the bogie 
 of the engine are attached the pinions that gear into the rack ; the arrange- 
 
 Front of Engi 
 
 JH*-*-lJE *-/?i> 
 
 Opiate placed at distances p;| 
 
 of 3 6 apart p, ■ ^ 
 
 E: 
 
 Fuj.22. 
 
 Fig. 20. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 m 
 
 \bolh 
 
 
 %'bck 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 %Mi 
 
 X 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ttttk 4/if.itch 
 
 = 
 
 
 
 
 
 M c 
 
 
 
 
 
 E3d 
 
 ment is shown in the diagram, Figs. 21 and 22. In the two vertical side 
 frames of the bogie, through which the main axles pass, is mounted the 
 crank-shaft B ; on it are keyed two toothed wheels gearing into C and D, 
 the latter gearing into the wheel E, and C, D, and E engaging in the rack 
 above described. A pair of spurwheels on each of the axles of the bogies of 
 the car also gear into the rack, and brakes are mounted on every axle. 
 There are three wheels on each side of the engine which revolve on the axles 
 and merely act as guides, and to sustain the weight. There are three 
 
Pike's Peak 25 
 
 driving cog-wheels, which gear with the cog-rails. The weight of the 
 engine is 32 tons. Two of the cog-drivers are in constant use, and the 
 third is reserved for emergencies. The cars were built at Springfield, 
 Mass., and are arranged on a " slant" corresponding with that of the engine, 
 and each one is fitted with an independent cog-brake. The engines push the 
 cars up the mountain, and are in front of them in making the descent. The 
 cars seat fifty passengers each, though nearly twice that number can be 
 accommodated in case of necessity. 
 
 As the ascent is made, many opportunities are given for exquisite 
 views of the world below, through vistas in the trees, with the eastern 
 plains glowing in the sunshine, and extending as far as vision reaches, and 
 limited only by the blue horizon's verge. About halfway up the mountain, 
 and directly on the line of the railway, reached also by the trail, lies the 
 Half-way House. 
 
 When the head waters of Buxton Creek are reached, the road curves 
 to the south-west, and " Windy Point" is attained. From here one has a 
 distinct view T of Manitou, Colorado City, and Colorado Springs. The 
 " Cathedral Spires " and the "Great Gateway" of the Garden of the Gods 
 appear like the castles set by the giants for a stupendous game of chess. 
 We are now far above timber line. On all sides can be seen strange 
 flowers, of lovely forms and varied hues. Plants which attain considerable 
 proportions on the plains are here reduced to their lowest terms. It is not 
 an unusual thing to find a sunflower stalk on the prairies rising to a height 
 of from 8 ft. to 10 ft. ; here they grow like dandelions in the grass, yet 
 retaining all their characteristics of form and colour. Beyond this mountain 
 meadow, are great fields of disintegrated granite, broken cubes of pink rock, 
 so vast in extent that they might well be the ruins of all the ancient cities 
 in the world. Far below, flash the waters of Lake Morain, and beyond, to 
 the southward, lie the Seven Lakes. Another turn of the track to the 
 northward, and the shining rails stretch almost straight up what appears 
 to be an inaccessible wall of precipitous granite. But passing the yawning 
 abyss of the " Crater," the line proceeds direct to the summit. The grade 
 here is one of 25 per cent., and timid passengers will not escape a thrill of 
 fear as they gaze over the brink of this precipice, although the danger is 
 absolutely nothing. At last the summit is reached, and, disembarking, the 
 tourists can seek refreshments in the hotel, and then spend the time before 
 the train returns, in enjoying the view and in rambling over the seventy acres 
 of broken granite which form the summit. 
 
 E 
 
26 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 The majesty of greatness and the mystery of minuteness are here 
 brought face to face. The thoughtful mind is awed by the contemplation 
 of this scene, and when the reflection comes that these great spaces are but 
 grains of sand on an infinite shore of creation, and that there are worlds of 
 beauty as vast and varied between the tiny flowers and the ultimate 
 researches of the microscope, as those which exist on an ascending scale 
 between the flowers and the great globe itself, the mind is overwhelmed 
 with wonder and admiration. 
 
 In the directory of the Manitou and Pike's Peak Railway Company 
 are many of Colorado's most prominent business men. Mr. D. H. Moffatt, 
 president of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad (the first narrow gauge 
 railroad built in the Rocky Mountains) ; he is also one of Denver's most 
 wealthy bankers. J. B. Wheeler, banker and mineowner of Aspen, 
 Colorado ; R. R. Cable and J. B. Glasser. Congressman Roswell P. 
 Flower, of New York ; Henry H. Porter, Chicago, president of the 
 Eastern Illinois Railroad ; Z. G. Simmons, of Kenosha, Wis., are among 
 the heaviest stockholders. 
 
 The writer of this notice (Mr. J. G. True) desires to return thanks to 
 Major John Hulbert, the president, and to Mr. E. S. Cable, general 
 passenger and traffic agent, for their innumerable courtesies and attentions 
 during his visit at their main station. He is also greatly indebted to Mr. 
 J. G. Hiestand and his able assistant, Mr. L. E. Jones, for the views with 
 which this notice is illustrated. 
 
 On returning from Pike's Peak, let the visitor stop at the Bath House 
 and take one of the celebrated natural spring baths. The waters are 
 charged with soda and iron, and the bather finds himself almost put to 
 sleep by their soothing influence. A large swimming pool is attached, and 
 affords a most delightful recreation. Having concluded the bath and the 
 swim, the visitor is advised to take a large tumbler of Manitou ginger ale, 
 well iced, and then if he does not say "life is worth the living" he had 
 better die right there, for he will be useless anywhere else. After a good 
 dinner at the Cliff House and the "Mansions" — for the party had to be 
 divided —we started on our train for Colorado Springs, and from the hotel 
 shown in Fig. 23, we took a farewell look at Pike's Peak, as shown there, 
 and were soon speeding on our westward way. A glance at the Eailway 
 Company's map will show that the line from Colorado passes straight 
 through the canons, despite the fact that there are ] 5-deg. curves or more 
 for very many points, no little matter of this kind weighs with a skilled 
 
Colorado Resta u rants. 
 
 27 
 
 map maker. We went but a short distance that night, for one of the 
 greatest attractions of this entire trip was the arrangement made by 
 Eaymond and Whitcomb to have our trains put on the side track when- 
 ever desired, so that we could always see the finest scenery by daylight. 
 We reached Canon City quite early, and went up into the town, where the 
 party received an invitation to attend a concert given by the Glee Club of 
 the students of the School of Mines of Colorado, who were making a tour 
 through the State to raise money for their library. After an enjoyable 
 evening we returned to our train and went to bed just as comfortably as 
 though in a hotel. Always having our dining-car, we were perfectly inde- 
 
 Fig. 23. Pike's Peak Avenue. 
 
 pendent of any hotels or restaurants, and had a uniform quality of food 
 which could not be claimed for any eating places we saw unless on the plea 
 it was uniformly bad in them. We saw plenty of restaurants, and many 
 bore the sign, " Quick-Order House." One added, "A fine meal, 25 cents, 
 and a perfect gorge 50 cents." As we expected the next day to have a 
 Eoyal Gorge provided from Nature's own storehouse, this did not attract 
 us, and sleep reigned profound in the car, only broken by certain sonorous 
 notes from certain sections. 
 
 The train left Caiion City for the Grand Canon at an early hour, and 
 soon came to a halt at its entrance, as some supposed, to give us a view of 
 the State Penitentiary, a fine stone building which contains 400 convicts, 
 some of whom we saw working on the road under a guard ; or, possibly, 
 
28 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone 
 
 as some one suggested, to transfer some of our number to its fostering care, 
 
 DO ' O ' 
 
 but after a census, in which each man denied having broken any law the 
 previous night, although some admitted the lateness of their return to the 
 train, the charge was disproved. 
 
 We passed Denver in the early hours of the morning, or late at night, 
 according to the habits of the individual, and the writers think that 
 they may be excused if they introduce at this place a description of 
 the City of Denver and its surroundings, prepared by them some 
 years since, on the occasion of the Convention of the American Society 
 of Civil Engineers, held at Denver in 1886. Many changes and 
 developments met them during their second visit, but on the whole they 
 remarked little to induce them to modify their earlier impressions. 
 
 " To visitors from Europe who are accustomed to see a place grow 
 slowly, and by gradual accretions, the apparently ephemeral growth of an 
 American city in the far west seems phenomenal, and they fail to grasp the 
 situation, yet here was a city full of life, bustle, and enterprise, with elegant 
 stone buildings which will vie with any similar structures anywhere, all the 
 growth of twenty-five years, and not a man who addressed us was a native 
 of Colorado. Situated on the direct line of travel from the east to the 
 west, and also on that from the north to the south, with all the products of 
 California and of Mexico pouring into her borders, here at the base of the 
 Rocky Mountains, Denver stands, once a city of the desert, but now 
 environed by the arts of engineering, surrounded by a land that blossoms as 
 the rose. Who can predict her future ? Her people have the energy of 
 giants and the wise forethought of the Greek. Since twenty-five years the 
 population is 70,000, and it has doubled within ten years. A great future 
 is before her, and none were quicker to see this than the engineers. 
 
 " The first impressions of Denver are imposing. The railway station is 
 a large fine stone building, and the streets leading from it are wide and 
 attractive. Indeed, nothing is done here on a small scale. The population 
 has increased rapidly to nearly 70,000 in a space of twenty-five years, the 
 buildings are of a lofty and permanent character, mostly of the beautiful 
 Colorado stone with its varied colours, while through the streets on either 
 side flows a stream of clear water occasionally tapped so as to run around 
 the base of a tree set between the sidewalk and the roadway. This at once 
 attracted our attention to the secret of Colorado's success, and the irrigation 
 system of which we had heard so much, was actually at our feet. 
 As our hosts said, the engineers would at once, on their arrival, begin 
 
Denver . 29 
 
 to ask questions, and as the climate is a dry one, it was thought advisable to 
 lighten the labour of the Denver people as much as possible, for this is a 
 great labour-saving country, so each visitor was presented with a book 
 handsomely printed, and containing some 140 pages. Its title was signifi- 
 cant, " Some Answers to Questions likely to be asked by the Members of 
 the American Society of Civil Engineers during their Visit to Denver." It 
 was extremely timely, and was seldom if ever consulted in vain. From it 
 we learned that we were at an elevation of 5196 ft., but this was as nothing 
 to our later experiences. The Continental divide is at no great distance 
 from Denver, and the streams at its summit flow into the Atlantic or Pacific 
 Ocean. We also found out that we were in a State that had shijsped in 
 minerals over 20,000,000 dols. in the last five years. We suspect the book 
 of some irony when it states, " The air being dry the heat is much less felt 
 than a lower temperature in damper climates." The writer has tried both, 
 and confidently asserts that the damper climate acts as a shield from the 
 intensity of solar heat. The water supply of Denver is on the Holly 
 plan, and in several instances artesian wells have been sunk, and water 
 of a beneficial mineral character has been obtained. If the water is alkaline 
 in its character woe betide the party who drinks it, his throat will feel like the 
 Desert of Sahara in a very few minutes, and the amount of fluid one can 
 absorb in vain, is something unparalleled. Iced tea is a good beverage for 
 Colorado, but this country is not one for prohibitionists ; in fact, the old 
 hymn applies here, " Ye thirsty souls fresh courage take." It is said to be 
 a great country for invalids, especially for those troubled with throat or lung 
 troubles, and it is so, for all the germs of disease must dry up and blow off. 
 One railroad superintendent, who looks the picture of health, told us he had 
 gone there originally to die ; he had evidently changed his mind on that 
 point. So much for Denver at the first glance ; we soon learned to know it 
 well, and to appreciate the great kindness and hospitality of its inhabitants, 
 and having concluded our convention we started oft the next day for 
 Greeley to inspect the irrigation system. This is the glory of 
 Colorado, and indeed without it the State would be almost a desert. 
 In some parts of the State there is ample water supply, and this is fed by 
 the snows of the Rocky Mountains, which are deep, and on many peaks 
 remain all the year. By collecting this supply through canals and feeders, 
 and distributing it over the portions needing it, the whole face of the 
 country is rapidly changing. The present methods are rather crude, and 
 are the immediate development of necessity ; the gradients 'vary from 1 ft. 
 
30 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 in a mile to 10 ft. ranging below 3 ft. The Citizens' Canal has a fall of 
 1 in. in 10,000 ft. at one point, while the Del Norte Canal, running through 
 a rock cut, falls 30 ft. in a mile. The standard of measurement is a cubic 
 foot per second, and this it is stated will irrigate 50 to 55 acres. The 
 annexed diagram shows the method of irrigation. The view in Fig. 24 
 shows that portion of the canal running through Platte Canon ; while 
 another illustration is given in Fig. 25 of one of the aqueducts. 
 
 " The entire canal system of Colorado embraces over 800 miles of large 
 size canals completed, and about 150 miles projected, and as well as 3500 
 
 miles of canals of secondary size. The extent of the distributing territoiy is 
 about 40,000 square miles, and the entire system has cost from 10,000,000 
 dols. to 12,000,000 dols. The total area supplied is 2,200,000 acres, and 
 the arable land is 20,000,000 acres. In one case a flume crosses Bijou 
 Creek at a height of 30 ft. and is 2700 ft. long. These considerations 
 show what the enterprise of Colorado is, and how alive the people are to 
 the needs of their land. The Society was delighted with its investigations, 
 and prepared to enjoy the next day's trip, which was of a grand and 
 imposing character, being a ride to Georgetown through the beautiful 
 Clear Creek Canon. 
 
 " Descriptions fail to present this ride adequately, and reliance must be 
 principally placed on the engravings accompanying this notice to convey to 
 our readers what we saw. The maximum grade is 211 ft. to the mile, and 
 the shortest radius is 478 ft. The first view is of Inspiration point, and is 
 
Fig. 24. High Line Canal, Platte Canon. 
 
32 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yelloivstone. 
 
 sufficiently inspiring to tempt any one to take the ride. It may be remarked 
 here that the progress of civilisation has changed the waters of Clear Creek 
 from their original colour. The creek is of a muddy yellow, due to the dirt 
 washed in from the tailings at the upper end, but it rushes alongside the 
 track with great force, and frequently leaps over a rock with a roaring 
 sound at once melodious and startling. 
 
 "The engraving, Fig. 26, shows another sinuosity of a narrow gauge 
 railway, and the engine plunged around this curve as though it was tho- 
 roughly used to it and really liked the fun. 
 
 Fig. 25. Aqueduct on the Flatte Canal 
 
 "At Idaho Springs we found hot wells, swimming baths, and natives 
 anxious to sell us ' specimens.' These consisted mostly of bits of pyrites 
 and galena ore, whose lustre renders them very saleable to strangers. 
 
 " At Golden there is a university and a mining school, and indeed there 
 arc the greatest facilities for a practical education in this branch. That it is 
 sorely needed in Colorado is evidenced by the many unsuccessful prospectors 
 whose abandoned claims point sadly to the passer-by the futility of human 
 hopes, and seem to be warning ghosts of the past against rashness, and too 
 great trustfulness. 
 
 " The view from Black Hawk from the passing train showed the smelting 
 works and other industries, and suggested to the writer that there was more 
 
Fig. 26. A Curve in Clear Creek Canon. 
 
o 
 
The Railway Loop, Georgetown. 
 
 35 
 
 money in smelting than mining, just as the broker who does a commission 
 business in stocks grows rich whilst his patrons lose millions. 
 
 " At last Georgetown came in sight, and we rapidly ran around the town 
 and proceeded to the celebrated Loop, a plan of which is given below, and a 
 careful study of which is necessary to properly understand the pictures 
 given of this most peculiar and unique method of railway construction. 
 
 " The view Fig. 27 shows the upper end of the Loop, and those in 
 Figs. 28 and 29, the general alignment of the railway, and the viaduct at the 
 lower end It may be remarked that to make two miles, 3.9 miles are 
 travelled, and an elevation of 623 ft. attained; the average grade is lfiO ft, 
 to the mile, and the maximum grade is 190 ft. At the point where the road 
 runs under itself the viaduct (see Fig. 29) spans the valley ; the distance 
 between the upper and lower tracks is 75 ft. 
 
 GEORGETOWN, COLO. 
 
 u.p.Rr 
 
 " Passing the Georgetown loop, and still ascending, we reached an eleva- 
 tion of nearly 9500 ft., and arrived at Silver Plume, where the beautiful 
 and now unpolluted waters of Clear Creek flow over a rock, and take a 
 vertical drop, the water bursting into clouds of spray from which the name 
 is derived. This is quite an enterprising town, and is, as will be seen from 
 the illustration, Fig. 30, on page 38, most romantically located. 
 
 " We had now reached the end of our clay's ride in one direction, namely, 
 upward, and the effects of the elevation had been marked to some extent ; 
 we therefore waited for our engine to turn on a Y, and then returned to 
 Georgetown for rest and dinner. The writer there found an old friend who 
 was the physician of the place, and on tendering him an invitation to come 
 and dine, the doctor declined, because he expected a patient in the train 
 shortly due, and they were so scarce he could not afford to miss one. This 
 speaks well for the salubrity of the place, and the expected patient had met 
 with an accident. People dry up and blow away. It is due to the'air, and 
 
o 
 
o 
 
o 
 
Fig. 31. Platte Canon. 
 
40 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 is said to be healthy. No oxen are seen here in the streets, and every one 
 uses horses or burros. No cats are here, they have fits and die, owing again 
 to that ' air ; ' the inhabitants are not feline people. It may be remarked 
 of this Clear Creek road, that in 13^ miles it falls 1700 ft., and it was 
 graded at a cost of 20,000 dols. per mile. 
 
 " Georgetown gave us a good dinner, and we returned to Denver to 
 rest and prepare for the trip to Leadville on the following day. 
 
 " The next day we bade farewell to Denver and started for Leadville, 
 the train having to be run in two sections, as the grades are so severe as to 
 limit the number of cars one engine can haul. On entering the Platte 
 Canon, one of the most beautiful in this wonderful country, the ' Dome 
 Rock ' is one of the most striking and conspicuous objects. 
 
 " After following the creek at a rising grade and around curves of a very 
 small radius, similar to that shown in Fig. 31, till some of the party 
 became dizzy and others cross-eyed, we began to ascend in real earnest, and 
 soon found ourselves among the peaks of the Rockies, which seemed to rise 
 on all sides, and in every instance were covered with snow. Along the 
 sides of the caiion were, as before, abandoned sluices, where many a life 
 had been worn out in the greedy search for the hidden treasure which 
 seemed to be ever almost within the grasp of the seeker, and which yet 
 managed to just escape his clutch. The train stopped at the summit of 
 Kenostra Hill to let the visitors have a farewell view of these peaks, and 
 it is vividly impressed on the minds of all who saw it. The summits in 
 the background stood boldly in relief against the clearest and bluest of 
 skies we had ever seen. The pureness of the air and its rarefaction made 
 them seem very near, and the sparseness of the vegetation marked our near 
 approach to the 'timber line,' for we had attained an elevation of 10,139 ft. 
 
 " Shortly after crossing the summit we descended into South Park, a 
 most beautiful plateau extending some 65 miles, and being in breadth 
 about 45 miles. A clear stream of water ran by the side of the track, and the 
 irrigating system was in vogue. In the distance we saw herds of cattle, 
 and everything pointed to peace and plenty. This latter idea was beginning 
 indeed to be a factor in the minds of many, and it was rapidly assuming 
 control. On the distant hills could be seen a snowstorm raging, and we 
 entered Como amid a shower of hail. The dinner here was all that could 
 be desired, and the town itself repaid a visit, although it was small, yet 
 there were plenty of signs of the usual Colorado enterprise. And now we 
 started to climb to the highest elevation reached by a railway in this 
 
Fig. 32. Royal (Jorge, Grand Canon of Arkansas. 
 
42 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 country. The railroad winds around the mountain side, circling towards 
 its sumnit, and the little town of Cotno becomes merely a speck below. 
 As there was a rapidly falling stream near the track, as water had been 
 abundant, and the gold promising (it always promises), we found hydraulic 
 mining had been largely practised, the method of working being that 
 familiar to every one. The force of the water from the nozzles used is very 
 great, and the bank melts away like snow. That it is a most wasteful 
 system of mining is beyond doubt ; but who, in the early stages of searching 
 for gold, ever considers economy ? Many abandoned claims greeted our 
 eyes, but the miners were still working at others, and as we reached the 
 higher elevations they seemed like ants moving around the hill, and finally 
 became entirely indistinguishable. Still we climbed, sometimes running 
 through a snow-shed, and occasionally passing snow banks until, in 
 Breckenridge Pass, we reached an elevation of 11,498 ft. On entering 
 Fremont Pass, named from the general, the train stopped to give the 
 party a view of the Mount of the Holy Cross, some 30 miles distant, and 
 whose summit bears in white the outlines of a huge cross. The road again 
 winds around the mountains until we were like Dr. Holmes's boy, whose 
 trousers were made the same on back and front, and who couldn't tell 
 whether he was going to school or coming home. At one moment we 
 seemed to approach Leadville, and at another to be going away from it. 
 The greatest altitude reached was 11,540 ft., and it was quite as well that 
 we did stop at this elevation, for some of the ladies were affected by 
 faintness, and in one or two cases became unconscious. Several of the 
 party had severe nose-bleeding, but in general the members were of 
 ' seasoned timber ' and used to getting high. We ran into Leadville at 
 dusk. 
 
 " This town at an elevation of 10,200 ft., started in 1859 under the name 
 of California Gulch, and in five years 5,000,000 dols. of gold dust was taken 
 out by washing. It then fell into decay, and in 187G silver was discovered 
 in the hills Its population at once rose to 30,000, and enterjDrises were 
 started in every direction ; the hills are honeycombed with openings, and 
 many a man has become rich from almost nothing, and so likewise many a 
 rich man has lost all ; the latter, it may be said, are usually the eastern 
 capitalists, who invest from a distance. Every method of minino- may be 
 seen — sluicing, hydraulic, and lode mining. Leadville also has an opera 
 house and a large hotel ; it boasts of gas, electric lights, and all the modern 
 improvements, including first-class gambling houses, &c r The people have, 
 
Pueblo ; Manitou. 43 
 
 however, learned to move deliberately — as we soon found when trying to 
 hasten — with the best of reasons. A run of ever so short a distance at this 
 elevation makes the heart beat violently, and all the pictures of the fighting 
 in Leadville, where persons are running to the melee, may be set down 
 from this circumstance alone as base frauds. The household cat is also here 
 wanting, and we slept the sleep of the just and shone to the perfect day, or 
 something like it — one gets metaphors sadly mixed in Leadville. The next 
 day, after visiting Marshall Pass and the Black Canon, we passed through 
 one of the greatest wonders of this wonderful country, to wit the Royal 
 Gorge, where the sides rise vertically, it is said, for 3000 ft., and the canon 
 is so narrow that it almost seems as though the cars would scrape on the 
 opposite side. 
 
 " It will be noted in the view Fig. 32 that one side of the bridge, which 
 is a plate girder, is hung from a truss also shown, which spans the canon 
 from side to side, and in that sense it may be called a suspended bridge. This 
 method is not known to have ever been practised elsewhere. 
 
 " The river here is the Arkansas, and we were informed that some miles 
 below it literally disappears, sinking into the earth. This may be a ' fish 
 story,' but we did not like to tell our informant this, because a want of 
 confidence in Colorado sometimes begets a want of vitality in the doubter, 
 and we preferred to live long enough to Avrite this notice. At all events the 
 river at this point gives no signs of its impending fate, but roars merrily and 
 lustily through the gorge at a sharp descent, occasionally rising or rather 
 falling, to the dignity of a cascade. The grades now become easy, and the 
 train reached Pueblo, which is said to be a pleasant place, in the afternoon. 
 The climate of Pueblo is remarkably equable even in cold weather, and it is 
 a great health resort for invalids, especially if the trouble is with the lungs. 
 
 " The same is said of Colorado Springs, which we reached later; but one 
 of the most charming spots in Colorado, and one which we most regretted 
 to leave, was Manitou, most delightfully situated at the base of Pike's Peak, 
 which rises for a background to the altitude of 14,147 ft., and whose top is 
 clothed with everlasting snow. This town is set right among the mountains, 
 although only at an elevation of 600 ft. itself. 
 
 " The air is cool and balmy, and the adjacent wonders and the excellent 
 hotels render Manitou one of the finest watering places in the world. The 
 mineral springs are effervescing, and consist, one of soda, one of sulphur 
 and one of iron. This latter bursts from the earth at a temperature of ice 
 water, and is thoroughly impregnated with iron ; in holding it up to the 
 
44 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 light, bubbles rise as they do in a glass of champagne. It is consoling and 
 strengthening to all partakers, and the hotel where it is a speciality is one 
 of the best at Manitou. 
 
 " The first thing to ha explored is the ' Garden of the Gods,' situated 
 near the town ; it is full of enormous boulders, which have by the action of 
 the water been worn into fantastic shapes. This locality was undoubtedly 
 the source of an immense lake, and these boulders show plainly how the 
 waves have worn their sides and have earned for them the titles which 
 posterity has affixed. There was something rather awe-inspiring as we 
 gazed on these relics of an age far beyond the memory of man, and the 
 reflection of what scenes and what prehistoric monsters these quaint and 
 curious stones had witnessed was forced on the beholder (see Fig. 33). 
 
 " The grandest sight of all was the view of Pike's Peak through the 
 gateway of the ' Garden of the Gods.' This is admirably shown in the 
 illustration (Fig. 34). 
 
 "These rocks, which are of sandstone, rise on either side over 400 ft., 
 and the white rock in the foreground only a short distance from them is 
 limestone. On entering the gateway, rocks of the most fantastic appearance 
 are seen ; nearly one hundred are to be selected, which have various names 
 due to their fancied resemblances, the favourite names being the Sphinx, 
 the Cathedral Spires (which look like those of Milan), the Kissing 
 Camels, &c. 
 
 " At the approach from Manitou, a large balanced rock stands as a 
 sentinel who would challenge any sacrilegious visitor. It looks as though 
 the slightest push would precipitate it down the steep incline it dominates, 
 and yet it probably stood where it now rests when the earth was young, and 
 may stand there till the final disruption of all things. 
 
 " If this strange spot where Nature seems to have sported with huge 
 
 masses of stone looks attractive by day, its weird forms look even more 
 uncanny at night, and the silvery light of the moon enhances their 
 
 strangeness and magnifies their mysterious influence. As this was the 
 proper season, every one had the moonlight view, and all were impressed 
 
 with the grandeur of this most picturesque spectacle. 
 
 " The party for Pike's Peak started early, and made the ascent and 
 
 descent in twelve hours. The signal station at Pike's Peak is a most 
 
 dreary place, and no one "who is detailed there is an object of envy, as 
 
 may be judged from the illustration (Fig. 35). 
 
 " The next day a party started for the Cheyenne Canon, and it njay be 
 
o 
 
 o 
 
 A 
 
fq 
 
fe 
 
48 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 said that the millionaires of Manitou will be its livery stable men. Not 
 that their charges are so exorbitant, but their arrangements are so 
 complete for preventing the traveller from seeing more than one thing 
 in a day. For instance, Cheyenne Canon is by way of Colorado Springs 
 sixteen miles distant, but why one must go by the springs was a question 
 promptly asked of our driver. He said there was no other way, although 
 a road seemed to go in the direction of the Canon from the ' mesa ' or 
 tableland. After we had gone bv the way of the springs, which occupied 
 the day till 3 p.m., and was very much like going to Ludgate Hill 
 from Charing Cross by way of High Holborn, our driver discovered a 
 short cut for the return, which landed us in Manitou in If hours. As 
 the team was hired by the day, one can apply the reasoning, since we 
 were told we must take it all day as it could not be done in less time. 
 Nevertheless, in full view of all these facts, the writer unhesitatingly 
 says, it paid. 
 
 " At the summit of this cliff is the grave of ' H. H.,' who has so 
 abused our beneficent Government for its dealings with the Indians, and 
 has thereby, in the writer's view, simply shown herself to be an extremely 
 silly and impracticable woman. However, he is a sceptic on her merits and 
 has yet to see one of her books which in his judgment will repay perusal, 
 her last, ' Romona,' being more impossible than any other. 
 
 " On the day following, we went to Ute Pass and saw the Rainbow 
 Falls , a sketch of Ute Pass is given in Fig. 36. 
 
 " The falls are surprisingly beautiful, and the horses no doubt thought 
 the road up the pass, of which an illustration is given, did not warrant any 
 display of enthusiasm. It was a fearfully steep pull, but at the summit was 
 the celebrated ' Cave.' 
 
 " The writer is pretty well ' up ' in caves (certainly we all were on this 
 at the elevation). Mammoth and Luray Caves have both been visited by 
 him ; Luray Cave stands without a peer for beauty, but the Manitou 
 cave is certainly remarkably fine, and well worth the climb it costs and the 
 one-dollar entrance fee. The stalactites are semi-translucent, of great 
 beauty, and of marvellous shapes. The ' organ ' is composed of a series of 
 them alongside of each other, and when struck each has a different note, the 
 result being that a skilful player can perform on them with great effect. There 
 are also many other beautiful and wonderful stalactites and stalagmites. 
 
 " On leaving Ute Pass, we rode to William's Canon, of which the 
 engraving in Fig. 37 gives an excellent idea. 
 
Fig. 36. Ute Pass. 
 

 •5 
 
The Royal Gorge. 51 
 
 "In some places this was so narrow that the whippletrees scraped the 
 walls on either side. The cliffs towered up above us in great magnificence 
 and to dizzy heights, while the action of the river which had undoubtedly 
 flowed through it at some time, had cut the rocks into the most fantastic 
 shapes and castellated appearance. This too has its subterranean cave, 
 but we took their word for it, and they did not take our dollar, so we 
 returned to our hotel richer in pocket and with a new supply of faith. 
 One thing more completed the Manitou trip to our great regret, and that 
 was the swimming bath. This structure is very picturesque and very 
 conveniently arranged. You can take a most luxurious hot soda bath and 
 then plunge into the swimming tank some 200 ft. by 100 ft. and about 
 5^ ft. deep. When you have finished, and taken a good drink of the soda 
 spring, you will feel so invigorated that you will unhesitatingly pay " life is 
 worth the living." 
 
 Resuming our journey, we entered the Royal Gorge, and were soon 
 whirling along the canon by the side of a most beautiful stream which 
 continually disputed the right of way with the railroad track until the 
 latter, apparently in sheer desperation, surrendered, and gave the insistent 
 stream the whole canon, where the track is suspended, and the stream 
 passes under it. This chasm has been fitly named the Royal Gorge, 
 and the height of the walls on either side may be set at nearly half a 
 mile. To the spectators gazing from the rear platform up at the narrow 
 band of blue sky, the cliffs seem to plunge headlong in wild and scattered 
 confusion to the swirling foam of the stream at their foot ; looking back- 
 ward they tower one behind another, the sunlight slipping down here and 
 there through a deep gorge and lighting the mica, the red sandstone, and 
 the green serpentine on their sides, while the smoke of the engine rolls 
 back in the clefts. At the end of the gorge a single enormous boulder 
 stands like a sentinel,' and on all sides the pale green hills sweep away 
 in broad curves. Here, in the sand between the tracks, grew delicate 
 white anemones. The irrigation trough followed the railroad for a long 
 distance through this canon, and is one of many such encountered in 
 Colorado. By the aid of these great engineering auxiliaries the waste 
 places have literally been made to blossom as the rose. 
 
 Suddenly, through a turn in the road between the side hills, burst a 
 view of the snow-crowned Rockies, white against the bright blue sky, their 
 summits wreathed with masses of grey clouds. 
 
 Soon we were up in the foot hills, on whose rocky soil only cactus 
 
52 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 grows, or dank scrub pine. In the plains we had just left were the houses of 
 the prairie dogs, and we saw several of the cunning little beasts scudding 
 away or cocked up in front of their holes with their tiny paws drooping in 
 front of them. Now we were steadily climbing, and the air became chilled 
 from the snow above us as we "cork-screwed" up the mountains in 
 elaborate curves and loops, so that we could look back and see our former 
 path far beneath us. More and more barren grew the vegetation, and near 
 us were patches of snow. Soon we were beside great drifts and surrounded 
 by white peaks. The air was fresh and invigorating, the sky full of drifting 
 clouds. In the distance could be seen the peaks of the Sangre de Cristo, 
 rising to 14,000 feet, and on the opposite side were the Arkansas Hills. 
 The scenery, although beautiful, was somewhat subdued in appearance, and 
 frequently meadow lands were to be seen, while herds of cattle lent a 
 peaceful look to the landscape. We reached Salida about noon, and the 
 entire party distributed themselves among the stores which contained the 
 two desiderata of tourists, viz., souvenir spoons and photographs. After 
 lunch, taking narrow-gauge cars, the party started for Marshall Pass, which 
 is one of the grandest and most beautiful trips to be taken on this continent. 
 The route runs through Poncha Pass, which acts somewhat like the 
 prologue to the play, and serves to prepare the mind of the visitor for what 
 is to follow. The route is circuitous, and crosses from side to side of the 
 pass, always rising. The curves range upward till a maximum of 24 deg. 
 is reached — it used to be 34 deg. — and the grade likewise gets more and 
 more steep till 211 ft. to the mile is attained. The progress is very slow, 
 and this gives a most delightful opportunity to observe the scenery. The 
 road turns forward and back in a manner which kept the sun in a most 
 uncertain state ; no sooner. would it shine in the windows on the right side 
 of the car, and evidently feel the satisfaction of warming the people, than a 
 turn of the road would transfer its rays to the left, and, later, to the rear. 
 The compass needle became discouraged, for north and south constantly 
 changed places with east and west, but one thing was true to itself, and that 
 was the Engineering aneroid which was given to the writer many years 
 ago. That instrument had made up its mind thoroughly what was its 
 mission in life, and mounted higher and higher till it pointed with pride to 
 an elevation of 11,000 ft. The scenery had grown bolder, and the 
 vegetation proportionally sparser. Snow drifts and patches of snow 
 appeared frequently, and the track so doubled on itself, that to gain an 
 elevation of 1000 ft., we went five miles and faced in a direction directly 
 
Mount Ouray ; Mount Shavano. 53 
 
 opposite to our starting point. We were, in fact, like the celebrated boy of 
 Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes, whose mother made his pantaloons the same way 
 in front and behind, and hence he never could tell whether he was going to 
 school or coming home ; if the reader thinks the narrator is romancing let 
 him carefully examine Fig. 38, where four lines of the same railroad are 
 shown. Mount Ouray appears there in all its glory, and Mount Shavano 
 is also to be seen ; both these mountains take their names from two 
 celebrated chiefs of the Ute tribe. Ouray is 14,055 ft., and Shavano is 
 14,260 ft. All the peaks of the Sangre de Cristo are also visible, crowned 
 with snow and rising over 14,000 ft. No one can adequately describe the 
 beauty of the scene as these peaks burst on our view, glittering in the 
 beautiful sunshine, so it must be left to the imagination. At the summit of 
 the railroad we reached an elevation of ] 1,000 ft. and running through a 
 snowbank entered a snow-shed where we found a thick bed of ice. The 
 train stopped at the summit and the party descended to find themselves on 
 the Continental Divide, where a stream from one side might reach the 
 Atlantic Ocean, while from the other it would flow towards the Pacific ; 
 there was a bank of snow some 25 ft. to 30 ft. deep outside, although it was 
 about the middle of May. There was an observatory here to add to the 
 chance of obtaining a beautiful view ; all ascended it, and some found the 
 rare atmosphere a severe tax on their respiratory organs. 
 
 As this is not the first trip to Colorado the writers made, they will 
 take the liberty of describing how the journey of the Mechanical Engineers 
 could have been made even more interesting had time permitted, in other 
 words, the traveller may do what is known as going " around the circle " 
 by continuing to Gunnison, and after visiting various places of interest to 
 be described, returning to Salida. If the tourist is a lover of nature, the 
 entire journey, which is all on the narrow-gauge system, will be a constant 
 delight. The distance by the route described will be between 700 and 800 
 miles, but can be extended, by taking a few side trips, to 1000 miles with 
 much profit and pleasure, and for an additional sum of 28 dols. for the 
 railroad ticket. The grandeur of the scenery is overwhelming, and each 
 rugged cliff, exquisite view, or roaring waterfall preaches a veritable 
 " sermon in stones " to the traveller. 
 
 But the query may be put here : " What is the result if the traveller 
 is not a lover of nature ? " The answer is, that such a one may have started 
 from home without being a lover of nature, but unless his eyesight has 
 failed on the trip, he will by this time have become so educated that he 
 
Fig. 38. Mount Ouray. 
 
Fig. 39. Black Canon of the Gunnison ; The Ourrencati Needle. 
 
56 The Yoftemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 must be one whether he will or not. So then, after passing Gunnison, 
 where the Crested Butte branch joins the main line, and noting the various 
 mines of silver, copper, lead, and coal, together with the presence of several 
 smelting works, the tourist passes along the beautiful river of the same 
 name and at once plunges into the Black Canon of the Gunnison. If this 
 name sounds forbidding, it need not deter the traveller, for he will be well 
 repaid for his journey. The question will at once arise as to which to 
 admire, the skill of the engineer who laid out this line, or the nerve of the 
 capitalist who paid for it, for the road runs for miles on a platform of rock 
 obtained by blasting the face of the cliff, and the walls rise up frequently 
 2000 ft. perpendicularly, so that between these cliffs appears a little rift of 
 sky, the bluest ever beheld. Foreign travellers have told the writers it was 
 bluer than that so celebrated in all descriptions of the Bay of Naples. 
 Now the train passes the spot shown in Fig. 39, where the rocks tower 
 above to a tremendous height and terminate in a sharp peak, known by the 
 name of the Currencati Needle. The stream at this point is very clear and 
 beautiful, and it is said to be full of trout, but we had no time for fishing, 
 and continued our journey twisting around curves and climbing upward 
 until we seemed to face as many ways as some of the Hindoo idols. 
 
 A descent of nearly 1000 ft. brings us to Montrose, and from here a 
 ride of 35 miles and a rise of 2000 ft. lands us in Ouray, a most picturesque 
 place, though a mining toAvn, containing some 3000 inhabitants. We may 
 now gaze on the peaks which surround us on every side, frequently rising 
 to a height of 3000 ft. to 4000 ft. above the town. This view, which is 
 effectively shown in Fig. 40, is oie which never wearies. Here the waters 
 of Canon Creek meet those of the Uncompahgre, and the peak bearing the 
 latter most unspellable name, rises 14,233 ft. above the sea level, adding 
 great beauty to the picture. There is, moreover, a fine cascade shown 
 on the left of the engraving, and there are hot springs, remarkable gorges, 
 and several caves of great beauty filled with stalactites and stalagmites. A 
 good hotel fills the wants of the traveller, and he can readily spend time 
 here to his great profit and pleasure. 
 
 On the other slope of Uncompahgre is Lake San Cristoval, a lovely 
 spot easily reached from Lake City, which is on a branch running from 
 Lake Junction between Gunnison and Montrose. The lake, with all its 
 attractive scenery, is well shown in Fig. 41. There are two falls adjacent, 
 Granite and Argenta, and then comes the lake, 2\ miles long, with water 
 as clear as crystal. There are several pretty islands in the lake which 
 
Silverton to Durango. 59 
 
 for beauty are hard to equal. The name was given to it by an old Spanish 
 monk in the seventeenth century. However, there is no time to linger 
 here, for a stage ride of about two hours must be undertaken in order to 
 reach Silverton. Much might be said of this short ride and the attendant 
 scenery, but time presses and it can only be noted that the view from Bear 
 Creek Bridge, where the stream falls 250 ft. in a raging torrent is most 
 impressive and beautiful. At Silverton, a town containing about 3000 
 inhabitants, the elevation has reached over 9000 ft., and, as the name 
 implies, Silverton is in the centre of a rich mining region. It stands at 
 the foot of Sultan Mountain, which is pierced in numerous places by 
 explorers after the precious metals, and shafts and tunnels are to be seen 
 on all sides. There is, in many instances, a melancholy history connected 
 with these attempts to wrest from nature her hidden stores, sometimes 
 pathetic, and sometimes exciting, but there is no place for them in the 
 story of a tour, and we proceed on our journey southward, for the circle 
 we are rounding is becoming a great deal of a rectangle, and bids fair to 
 be " squared " before the trip is ended. 
 
 The descent from Silverton to Durango is about 3000 ft., and the dis- 
 tance is about 45 miles, which, if the grade were uniformly distributed, would 
 not give anything very excessive in railroading, certainly not for Colorado. 
 The trip is through the most celebrated of the canons of Colorado, viz., 
 that of the Rio de las Animas Perdidas, or the river of lost souls. As 
 this is not a particularly cheerful name to give so beautiful a spot it is 
 called Animas for short, following the plan of the good old leader's name 
 in the days of the Protector, which, being in full, " Praise God Barebones 
 if Christ had not died you would have been damned Barebones," was 
 shortened by the Royalist party, who were frequently in haste, especially 
 at Naseby, to his last two names. On first leaving Silverton, after passing 
 Baker's Park, the track follows the bed of the stream which roars beside 
 it. The waterfalls are frequent and very beautiful ; then comes Elk Park, 
 and finally, after passing the Needles, the Animas Canon is entered. The 
 bed of the stream is at first but a few feet below the track, which is shut 
 in by mountains on either side, and at various points of curvature their 
 peaks tower up many thousand feet, while the tops, crowned with snow, are 
 sharply outlined against the sky, and seem very near, owing to the extreme 
 clearness of the atmosphere. In Fig. 42 may be seen a good representation 
 of this attractive spot. Passing on from here the grade becomes steeper 
 and steeper and the track more and more curved, while two engines of 
 
'5 
 o 
 
62 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 great power are now necessary to haul the train. The road in spots seems 
 literally fastened to the side of the cliff, and one may gaze from the car 
 window nearly 1000 ft. below where the river looks almost like a white 
 cloud, so flecked is its surface with foam, for its descent is rapid and the 
 rocks and cascades quite numerous. Here and there, clinging to the sides 
 of the cliff in crevices, which look as if they could not furnish enough earth 
 to support a daisy, are to be seen hemlocks and pines. The picture shown 
 in Fig. 43, gives a fair idea of the engineering feats accomplished, and a 
 faint notion of the beauty of Animas Canon. After whirling along for 
 some miles the train descends into a beautiful valley, the traveller 
 passing on his way, Trimble Hot Springs, whose mineral waters are alleged 
 to have wonderful curative powers, and which the writers did not taste, as 
 they were in excellent health. The road now follows the river, and alongside 
 are fertile fields under cultivation, the many farmhouses of excellent 
 appearance affording evidence of prosperity. After passing nine miles of 
 attractive scenery we are landed at Durango. 
 
 A ride of about 170 miles from Durango brought us to Antonito, and 
 in this journey we passed through the famous Toltec Gorge and Toltec 
 Tunnel. Here one may look upward to cliffs 1000 ft. above, and gaze 
 downward some 1500 ft. Although the tunnel is but 600 ft. long, it was, 
 as may be supposed, a most expensive work. The rock is extremely hard, 
 and, in fact, to-day the roof of the tunnel needs no support. 
 
 The road is sustained here by a solid iron trestle set into the rock ; 
 this is to be seen in Fig. 44, and lest the reader overlook the train in his 
 admiration of the picture, which is taken from the bottom of the gorge, his 
 attention is directed to a small object in the upper right-hand corner, which 
 represents the train about to enter the tunnel, the latter being a small black 
 spot, at first glance seeming to be a spot of ink, while the train might be 
 passed over as a smear of the printer. At this place there is a beautiful 
 memorial monument to the late President Garfield. We must now rapidly 
 transport our traveller to Salida, much as the scenery tempts one to enter 
 upon detailed and illustrated descriptions, and take up the story of the 
 engineers where we. left them at the summit of the Marshall Pass. The 
 ascent had required two engines of the four-coupled consolidated type with 
 20-in. by 22-in. cylinders and 35-in. drivers. We returned the 25 miles 
 with but one engine, and that evening found the party at the Grand Concert 
 Hall in Salida, where the following unique signs attracted our attention : 
 " No loud whistling or yelling allowed," and another, " Any person caught 
 
Fig. 44. The Toltec Gorge. 
 
64 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 throwing anything from the gallery to the floor below will be at once 
 expelled from the building and will not be permitted to enter it again." 
 After a pleasant evening the party retired to their train, and awoke to find 
 themselves en route to the Tennessee Pass, having passed Leadyille at an 
 elevation of 10,200 ft. during their slumbers without knowing it. 
 
 One of the great charms of this method of travelling was shown here; 
 we had not time to observe all the wonderful scenery in detail, so the finest 
 was selected, and by remaining at night on the side track instead of 
 pursuing our journey, we were enabled to see all the best by daylight. 
 At Tennessee Pass we reached 11,100 ft. in elevation and had, later, a 
 view of the celebrated Mountain of the Holy Cross, so called because near 
 the summit a cross is marked out by the rock formation on a grand scale. 
 
 In this pass we were shown the Butler Mine, named from the General, 
 and the timid ones examined their souvenir spoons, and rejoiced to find them 
 intact. We soon came to other mines, in some places situated so high on 
 the mountain side that the ore had to be lowered hy wire ropes, and it 
 would seem to the uninitiated as though the miners must go to their work 
 by means of balloons ; soon we entered the Canon of the Grand River, and 
 saw on one side of the stream a large mass of lava, evidently thrown up by 
 a volcano extinct for hundreds of years. The rocks became varied in colour 
 and reminded the spectator of architectural works on a most enormous scale ; 
 castles with towers hundreds of feet high, fortresses whose outer walls would 
 defy Titans, and every fantastic shape which can be imagined. The canon 
 is narrowed at its entrance, which is called the portal, and a view of it 
 appears in Fig. 45, which gives the best idea of it possible without 
 reproducing its many colours. Although the morning was bright, the 
 valley seemed more and more shut in, and the scenery assumed a sombre, 
 gloomy look, the only' bright feature being the sparkling water flowing 
 alongside the track. The foliage had likewise a funereal appearance, and 
 the railroad even felt constrained to hide itself on three separate occasions, 
 the first of which is seen in Fig. 46 ; but suddenly the hills fall away on 
 either side, the river expands and dances in the sunlight, the foliage takes 
 on its wonted green, and all nature seems to rejoice with us as the train 
 halts and the party alights at Glenwood Springs, where we find our 
 elevation to be but 5768 ft. 
 
 The whole party proceeded to cross the river to the springs, feeling 
 sure that " cleanliness is next to godliness," and desiring a suitable 
 preparation to fit them to enter the city of the Latter Day Saints, which we 
 
155 
 
 o 
 
Fig. 46. Tunnel on the Grand River Canon. 
 
Glenwood. 
 
 67 
 
 expected to clo on the following day. In the shortest time all were busily- 
 sporting in the open air natatorium, shown in Fig. 47, where the water, 
 surcharged with soda, bubbles up at a temperature of 120 deg. and at the 
 rate of 2000 gallons per minute. The novelty of bathing in a warm spring 
 and being able to look up at the snow-capped mountains on every side, will 
 not soon be forgotten, nor will the chilling effects of the fountain of spring 
 water shown in the picture. The change from the warm water to the cold 
 was varied in its effect on the bathers. The men gave a stolid sort of a 
 grunt and swam away, but whenever there was a shrill feminine shriek 
 we knew one of the ladies had swum into this locality. 
 
 Fig. 47. Glenwood Springs. 
 
 In the afternoon the party was on its westward way, and soon we 
 reached a country so utterly different that it seemed almost incredible that 
 only so short a distance separated it from the rocks of the Royal Gorge. 
 The flat plains, beautiful with wild flowers of every hue, are surrounded by 
 great soda buttes of strange and fantastic formation. Now, by a stream, 
 these are comparatively low and riddled with the holes of wild birds, and 
 again they rise on high in the exact shape of a mighty palace of the 
 ancient Aztecs, or in the various towers of a great castle. As we passed 
 one little village we saw a train of galloping horses, and behind them 
 cantered a real cowboy with broad sombrero, and a lariat in his hand. 
 
68 TJie Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 The plain before him, yellow with the blooming sage, its only plant, was 
 bounded by a line of lofty buttes like the wall of a city ; where the sun 
 struck them they were pale yellow, while the shadows on the distant ones 
 were deep purple, and behind, the low clouds drove across the blue sky in 
 heavy masses of white and grey. At 6 o'clock we came again on the 
 Grand River. Here the buttes plunge sheer to the water's edge, their 
 deep red casting a bright reflection in the clear broad stream ; strange and 
 wonderful in shape, they resemble now a Greek temple, and now the spires 
 of a cathedral, or a solemn row of colossal statues, each one separated 
 distinctly from the next, and taking the mind to the days of Egypt and 
 the Temple of Thebes. Gazing back through the curving and opening 
 vistas, the red glow of the massive cliffs contrasts with the vivid light 
 green foliage bordering the river. It has been suggested that this canon 
 was once the bed of an enormous river which rolled its deeps between 
 these lofty cliffs, and that their seams and furrows were worn by the rush 
 and turmoil of its waves. 
 
 After passing Azure Cliffs, so named from the colour of the clay 
 formation, we entered Castle Canon. We had now crossed both the Green 
 and the Grand Rivers, but these unite some miles from here to form the 
 Colorado. This canon is full of weird and wonderful scenery ; in one spot, 
 on the summit of a towering cliff, was a mighty dome, large enough to 
 cover the Columbian Exposition grounds at Chicago, and history can 
 furnish no greater simile ; in another place a rock rises thousands of feet, 
 having little spurs like minarets on all sides, and taking the form of a 
 gigantic steeple to some sunken church. At the entrance to this canon 
 are two large sandstone rocks 500 ft. high, standing like sentinels, leaving 
 scarcely room for the tiny railroad track to enter. The grade rises rapidly 
 again, the track passes through Castle Gate (Fig. 48) and enters the Price 
 River Canon. The two pillars, about 500 ft. high, are of a deep red, and 
 this is set off in contrast by the pines which grow at the edges of the base. 
 The views in the canon are still on the magnificent order, and every eye 
 was strained to see them till night, but even then it was not lost to us, 
 since a full moon kept up the interest, throwing a sort of spectral effect 
 upon the scene, and late that night, on raising the state-room curtain, we 
 could see the level stretches of sage brush, looking as though covered with 
 a heavy frost, the great buttes standing out black against the silver clouds. 
 From the gateway to the Canon of the Wahsatch Mountains the grade 
 rises to 227 ft. to the mile, requiring two engines for one train, and the air 
 
■4 
 O 
 
 A 
 
 o 
 
70 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 was so pure and exhilarating that the spirits of the party rose like cream 
 on new milk, one of them being heard to declare in his ecstasy, " I declare 
 I feel good enough to join the Mormon Church," and the opportunity was 
 soon to be afforded him, for the next morning found us at Salt Lake City, 
 and in the presence of that strange body of people. The approaches to 
 this place from the canon just described were novel and attractive. In the 
 early morning we passed several " dug-oats," which were nothing but 
 holes in a side hill, with timbers placed to hold the earth up. At one of 
 these openings we saw at least seven people, and near by was evidently a 
 boarding-house, also a " dug-out," with the entire family at breakfast ; 
 the host being somewhat cramped for room had considerately put the box 
 serving for a chair outside the building, but his head and shoulders were 
 inside, and he bent fondly over the table constructed of several boxes. 
 The sign over the door was startling and probably attractive. It read : 
 " Meals 35 cents ; no charge if not satisfactory." Unfortunately the 
 method of determining satisfaction was not stated. Perhaps it was similar 
 to that practised by a Western barkeeper when a rough-looking lot of 
 miners were drinking with a tenderfoot. As they leaned against the 
 plank resting on two barrels which formed the bar, the barkeeper took 
 their orders, it was uniformly " whisky " till the tenderfoot mildly asked 
 for " sherry." The barkeeper's revolver was out in a minute. " I won't 
 have no tenderfoot putting on airs with my regular customers," said he. 
 " You meant whisky, I reckon ? " " Certainly, certainly, sir, of course I 
 meant whisky ; never drank sherry in my life." Alongside the track for 
 many miles was a large fresh-water lake called Utah Lake, which 
 added greatly to the beauty of the scenery. Herds of cattle were to be 
 seen, and later we passed a typical " prairie schooner." This was a wagon 
 with a white top cover of sailcloth, and a door formed in the side with two 
 small glass lights in it, while through the top of the cloth projected a 
 stove-pipe. This was really a luxurious type, and as the door was open, 
 we saw a woman cooking breakfast ; evidently her presence was the 
 explanation of such unwonted style. Brick kilns were to be seen at short 
 intervals, and even the smallest houses were of this material. A wooden 
 house was a luxury, and we only saw a few of them, but each was in 
 the midst of an attractive-looking lawn, and bearing evidence of prosperity. 
 There were many fruit orchards in view, all in full bloom, and the varied 
 colouring of the blossoms, and their fragrance borne on the air, refreshed 
 every one. The country being the promised land to the Mormons, was 
 
Salt Lake City. 71 
 
 indeed fertile, and scriptural names such as Moab, Jerusalem, and the 
 like were frequent ; presently we passed over the Jordan, but experienced 
 none of the ecstasy described by enthusiasts. Possibly, if the truth was 
 known, the reality was not all fancy depicted, and they may have felt 
 like the old negro, whose nightly prayer was " Lord, send the angel 
 to take this nigger to heaven." But when some jester knocked on the 
 door and announced himself as the angel come for the purpose of fulfilling 
 the request, the darkey in great fright roared out " Go long, you old fool, 
 that nigger been dead this three weeks." 
 
 The Jordan is crossed by a Mormon bridge which was erected without 
 the use of a nail, that desirable object not being among the Mormon stores 
 at the time of its erection. We also passed charcoal huts, and later sonie- 
 
 Fig. 49. Brigham Young. 
 
 thing which may interest foreigners, a large beetroot sugar refinery, that 
 industry having taken quite a hold in this section, and it is understood, 
 with considerable success. 
 
 On reaching Salt Lake City we expected to meet long-haired, wild- 
 eyed men of stern, forbidding countenances ; on the contrary, a short 
 pleasant-faced gentleman met the party and we started under his guidance 
 for the Mormon Temple. 
 
 The speculation at once became rife, especially among the ladies, as to 
 whether he was a Mormon, and if so, how many wives he had and the 
 
72 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 number of his family, but no one put the question direct. When the party- 
 alighted from the electric car, taken from the Railroad Station, they 
 were the objects of considerable attention, and in return they looked 
 interestedly at the people. Naturally they assumed all were Mormons, 
 and yet it is doubtful if any were, for the Gentiles are very numerous. 
 
 Of course Mormonism centres around Brigham Young, "who, though 
 dead, yet speaketh," and what was pronounced by one of his friends to be 
 an excellent likeness is given in Fig. 49. 
 
 The first object of interest visited was the new temple shown in 
 Fig. 50. This was commenced in 1853, and thus far has cost 6,000,000 
 
 Fig. 50. The Mormon Temple. 
 
 dols. Tt is rapidly approaching completion, and if the Gentiles will only 
 visit it enough, its progress is sure, for an admission fee of 25 cents is 
 exacted. In our case it was gracefully waived, and then we were quite sure 
 our guide was a Mormon, and so he was ; he was also an English gentleman 
 who had been here some twenty-five years, very kind and desirous of 
 showing us all hospitality. It was rumoured he had seven wives, but this 
 may be an error ; no one asked him, but he volunteered the statement he 
 had twenty-four children, one of them six months old, and regretted we 
 could not visit his wife (he certainly used the singular form) and see the 
 infant. If all the fold were as pleasant as he was, they must be charming to 
 meet. The temple is of white marble, or, to be exact, of white granite which 
 is quarried fifty miles distant at Cottonwood Canon. The dimensions are 
 
The Mormon Tabernacle. 
 
 73 
 
 200 ft. by 100 ft. with a height of 200 ft. The four towers are each 220 ft. 
 The one on the right-hand corner is surmounted by a colossal gilt figure of 
 an angel with a trumpet at its mouth, and very large electric lights are 
 distributed about it. The effect at night must be grand. The walls of the 
 building are 10 ft. thick and the interior will be handsomely decorated. 
 The situation is a commanding one and the structure can be seen fifty miles 
 distant. 
 
 A short distance from the temple is the tabernacle, two views of which 
 are given; the exterior is seen in Fig. 50, and the interior in Fig. 51. 
 This enormous building, made of iron, glass, and stone, is 250 ft. long 
 
 Fig. 51. Interior of Mormon Tabernacle. 
 
 150 ft. wide, and 100 ft. from floor to centre of dome. The design was 
 revealed to Brigham Young by an angel, who was not only a good judge of 
 architecture, but also a close student of acoustics, for by standing about in 
 the centre of the tabernacle, a whisper made at the railing to the right of 
 the organ, and in front of the open door on the left, can be distinctly heard ; 
 and, more marvellous still, a pin dropped there some 3 ft. or 4 ft. above the 
 railing was heard distinctly by our entire party when seated on the benches 
 near the centre. There are twenty doors 9 ft. wide, opening outward, so 
 that the building can be filled or emptied with great facility. The organ at 
 the background is a beautifully made and exquisitely sweet -toned 
 instrument. It was constructed by Mormon workmen, from the native 
 woods, at a cost of 100,000 dols. In height it is 58 ft, it has 57 stops, and 
 
 L 
 
74 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 2648 pipes. The choir gather on either side, and number 500. The 
 president and his two counsellors occupy a conspicuous sofa, while the other 
 dignitaries occupy places on steps according to their rank, the subordinate 
 ones using inclosures to the right and left. The hall will seat 13,462, and 
 the seats are free ; nor are Gentiles excluded. The service is largely of 
 song, together with reading from the Mormon Bible, and then there may be 
 a short discourse from any of the officials who desire to speak. They have 
 a Communion service, using the water of the Jordan in place of wine. 
 
 A little beyond the Tabernacle is the Assembly Hall, shown in Fig. 52. 
 This is also of granite; it cost 90,000 dols., and will seat 2500. On the 
 
 
 • i ■"' 
 
 Wi 
 
 *illissl 
 
 
 jWffira 
 
 
 ^^okSA^s! 
 
 
 
 
 ' **S \ 'TV .* "7" 
 
 
 M^mM 
 
 m 
 
 B^j' Unll 
 
 
 
 ^i^^ft 
 
 :^gg= 
 
 9m^*<s9p 
 
 
 
 Fig. 52. The Assembly Hall, Salt Lake City. 
 
 ceiling, which is divided into sixteen panels, is a grand fresco illustrating 
 the history of the Mormon Church. One scene shows the angel delivering 
 the golden plates to the founder of Mormonism, Joseph Smith. These 
 were written in a cipher that only Joseph could translate, and contained the 
 foundation of what is now the Mormon Bible. The reader will understand 
 the Mormons accept the Gentile Bible as far as it goes, but claim a 
 new and later revelation. Acoustic properties are again a feature of the 
 construction of this building, and many eastern architects might study 
 the example with profit to themselves and pleasure to their audiences. 
 East of this is the Mormon Tithing House and printing office, Brigham 
 Young's residence, the Lion House, and the Beehive House, so named 
 from having a carved lion on the one and a beehive on the other. 
 
Salt Lake City. 75 
 
 Here is also a pretty school-house, where his seventy-eight children 
 attended. A man with such a family was certainly entitled to a private 
 school. The late Artemus Ward use to tell of a flourishing young ladies' 
 seminary with thirty-five pupils which came to grief by a sly Mormon elder 
 eloping with the whole of them. Eagle Gate, which spans the street, has 
 four piers, with a carved eagle over the centre resting on supports running 
 to each pier. 
 
 As to the Tithing House, a word may be said. When the Mormons 
 were in full possession, the payment of one-tenth to the Church was 
 rigorously exacted, but now, of course, it is voluntary, although my 
 informant told me all true Mormons paid it, and if he made 200 dols. he at 
 once sent 20 dols. to his church. Was it any wonder that with such a 
 revenue, and in the midst of such a fertile region, the Mormon Church grew 
 enormously rich ? Brigham Young also built a theatre in 1862, which is 
 to-day an imposing structure. It is 175 ft. long by 80 ft. in width, and 
 will seat 1500. It is built of adobe and finished with granite. The style 
 of architecture is Doric. 
 
 A great source of revenue to the Mormon Church is the Zion 
 Co-operative Store. Our party was taken through this enormous 
 establishment, which would be a credit to any city in the world. The first 
 floor, stored with dry goods, will compare favourably with the best New 
 York and London stores in attractiveness and tasteful arrangements. The 
 writer on seeing the other floors was reminded of the Army and Navy 
 Stores in Victoria-street. The large shoe factory was another feature, but 
 whether the Mormons make the " shoes of righteousness " or not, they 
 certainly turn out a good article. Everything, apparently, can be purchased 
 at the store, from a triple-expansion engine to a thimble, and from a cotton 
 pocket handkerchief to a Paris dress. The aggregate business exceeds 
 6,000,000 dols., and some of the party who had dealt with this establish- 
 ment said all accounts were paid promptly on the first of the month. 
 
 The territory of Utah was almost unknown until 1833, and was 
 considered as a desert. That year Captain Bonnjtville explored it to some M 
 small extent, and in 1842 to 1846 Colonel John C. Fremont made further 
 explorations ; there were then a few tribes of Indians as its inhabitants. In 
 1847 Brigham Young and 142 pioneers came into the region. Their first 
 action was to begin the irrigation and planting of this arid waste. Young 
 certainly was a remarkable man and gifted with great foresight. He also 
 knew how to turn any unusual event to his own benefit. For instance, 
 
76 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 when there was a sudden advent of sea-gulls, which devoured an army of 
 black crickets that threatened to devastate the crops, this was set down as 
 a miraculous interposition of Providence. The gold hunters nocking to 
 California in 1849 started up a " boom " in Salt Lake City, and in 1850 the 
 territory was organised under an Act of Congress, and Brigham Young was 
 appointed governor. There were then 30,000 people in the territory and 
 5000 of them at Salt Lake City. The territory continued to grow, and in 
 1870 the last rail was laid and the last spike driven, of the Utah Central 
 Railway, by Brigham Young. With this railroad came the usual number of 
 new settlers, and Mormonism was doomed in 1880 ; the population of Salt 
 Lake City was then 20,678, and in 1890, 46,259. while to-day it is upwards 
 of 55,000. The valuation of property has risen from 16,600,000 dols. in 
 1889 to 54,350,000 dols. in 1890. It has also 65 miles of electric 
 railways. 
 
 The climate of Utah is extremely mild, and the air is fresh and pure. 
 The boast of the territory is the great age of its inhabitants ; one of the 
 common mottoes is, " We believe it is a duty to live past seventy," and 
 under this are frequently placed a row of photographs of well-known 
 inhabitants, some of whom are ninety, and all bearing the proud look due to 
 a consciousness of duty well performed. The following extract serves to 
 confirm this statement : " ' Old Folks' Day ' is a Utah Mormon institution, 
 which might well be made national in its scope and observance. It was 
 established by Bishop Hunter, of the Mormon Church, who died at the age 
 of ninety years. It comes on June 22, and is observed as a general 
 holiday. An excursion is given to people of seventy years and upwards, 
 winding up with a banquet, a dance, and a general distribution of presents. 
 In 1887, when Salt Lake City had but about 30,000 population, she sent 
 750 of these ancient jollifiers over the Rio Grande Western Railway to 
 Ogden. Of the number, 112 ranged in age from eighty to ninety-seven. 
 A seventy-year old papa, trundling a baby chariot, with a springy tread of 
 a young game rooster, is no uncommon sight on city street or country road." 
 The country seems prolific in every way. For instance, one man- raised in 
 1890, on 20 acres of land, 1920 bushels of oats, averaging 96 bushels to the 
 acre, and the year previous he had raised 104. Another man raised in 
 1890, 90 bushels of barley to the acre ; 112 bushels of corn to the acre were 
 also raised, and, again, 947 bushels of potatoes, while at another point a 
 farmer cleared 1200 dols. per acre on strawberries ; 7 tons of clover per acre 
 is not unusual, and they frequently cut four crops of it in a season. The 
 
Salt Lake City. 77 
 
 following extract from the last Chamber of Commerce report may be cited 
 at this point : 
 
 " The earth is absolutely wanton in fecundity. Eye yields an average 
 of from 60 to 70 bushels to the acre ; turnips from 400 to 600 bushels ; 
 carrots, from 700 to 1000 bushels; apricots, 350 to 500 bushels; peaches, 
 from 500 to 700 bushels ; apples, 450 to 600 bushels ; pears, 500 bushels ; 
 plums from 300 to 400 bushels; blackberries, raspberries, currants, and 
 gooseberries, from 300 to 350 bushels to the acre, and everything else in 
 like profusion. Cherries grow wild in great abundance. Hops are 
 indigenous to the soil. Nectarines flourish everywhere, and figs are 
 raised in the southern valleys. Cotton grows luxuriantly in the lower 
 counties, and a cotton mill established by the Mormons at Washington has 
 long been in successful operation. It uses about 75,000 lb. of cotton yearly 
 and manufactures good domestics." Nor does the human race claim any 
 exemption to this law. " Be fruitful and multiply " is the rule everywhere, 
 and as an evidence of this it may be said that at Pleasant Valley, where the 
 population numbers 2300, there are over 800 children of an age to attend 
 school and 378 of younger years. 
 
 As a mark of courtesy, the officers of the society were presented to the 
 rulers of the Mormon Church, President Woodruff and the two counsellors, 
 President Cannon and President Smith, the latter being a nephew of the 
 celebrated Joseph Smith, founder of the order, who was shot by a mob in 
 Nauvoo, Illinois, when the people of Illinois rose and expelled all the 
 Mormons from their borders. President Cannon is about ninety years old, 
 but looks like a man of seventy. All of these gentlemen were well-preserved, 
 stout men, in a most excellent physical condition, with fine intelligent faces 
 and a look of shrewdness which impressed the spectator with their ability to 
 deal with almost any problem in a most successful manner. Knowing the 
 party to be eastern men and thoroughly loyal to the Government, they 
 spoke in the kindest way of the administration in a rather soft deprecatory 
 manner, full of sadness that they should be so misunderstood and maligned, 
 but to the writer's mind there seemed to be an undercurrent of intense 
 hatred, bitter and uncompromising. Nor is it to be wondered at. Their 
 claim in general is, that they found an absolute desert, and bent their skill 
 to its improvement; that they solved the irrigation problem, collected 
 people of their way of thinking, and by economy and prudence have created 
 a populous and fertile land which they think belongs to them ; that when 
 their efforts had made this desirable, the cupidity of the Gentiles had seized 
 
78 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone 
 
 upon it, passed laws against their church holding the property it has created, 
 and, as they believe, are fairly entitled to ; attacked their religious beliefs 
 by prohibiting polygamy, and reduced them to a condition of vassalism by 
 sheer power of arms. There is something to be said on their side beyond a 
 doubt, and that they are a frugal and industrious people no one can deny ; 
 that they have solved the Indian problem far better than the nation at large 
 is also true, perhaps because they had a lower order of red men to treat, but 
 certainly to a great extent because they were kinder in their methods. 
 
 The only answer to all this is the general statement that no nation, 
 least of all a republic, can tolerate within its borders a separate system of 
 government which owes no allegiance to the general government; that poly- 
 gamy is abhorrent to all nations of this age, and is opposed to good citizen- 
 ship; and that Mormonism, wherever it was against the public good of the 
 nation, was by that very act a doomed institution, and could not be tolerated; 
 that from a purely religious standpoint, independent of any conflict with 
 the laws of the land, it is not disturbed so far as it is a belief ; and that 
 if they used their power and wealth to oppose the Government, as they 
 undoubtedly did, they were in a state of rebellion, and by that very act 
 forfeited any claim to consideration. 
 
 This discussion on Mormonism may be most fittingly closed with the 
 grave of its greatest apostle, and probably its most shrewd and competent 
 leader, which is shown in Fig. 53, inclosed by an iron fence. The cemetery 
 is located pleasantly on a side hill, and but a short distance from the temple 
 whose corner stone he laid, but which, like the religion he founded, he was 
 never to see complete and established. 
 
 In the afternoon the party visited the Great Salt Lake. This 
 wonderful body of water, whose only parallel is the Dead Sea, to which the 
 Mormons love to liken it, contains 18 per cent, of solid matter, mostly salt 
 and soda. It was once as large as Lake Huron, and is now 100 miles long, 
 with an average width of from 25 to 30 miles. Hundreds of thousands of 
 tons of salt are made by natural evaporation along the shores of the lake, 
 and at one place near Salt Lake City, a windy night never fails to pile up 
 many tons of soda, eliminated by the movement of the waves. Four large 
 rivers pour fresh water into it without raising its surface or diminishing its 
 saltness. It was formerly supposed that no creature could live in its waters, 
 but lately scientists have discovered there a few of the lowest orders of 
 microscopic organisms. 
 
 It was a great disappointment to us on our arrival at Garfield Beach, 
 
Salt Lake. 
 
 79 
 
 to learn that the weather was far too cold to admit of bathing, for the first 
 bath in the Great Salt Lake is said to be an exciting event. The human 
 body cannot sink ; you can walk out in it where it is 50 ft. deep, and your 
 body will stick out of it from the shoulders upwards ; you can sit on it ; 
 men lie and smoke with their arms crossed under their heads. But the 
 great difficulty is to move gracefully, to keep from turning somersaults and 
 remaining heels up. The water is said to contain powerful medicinal 
 virtues. 
 
 The likeness of Utah to Canaan, which led Brigham Youno- and his 
 20,000 Mormons to settle there, is indeed very striking when the two maps 
 
 Fig. 53. The Grave of Brigham Young. 
 
 are placed side by side. But with the similarity of contour the likeness 
 ends unless one considers the methods of the old Israelites, and there indeed 
 a similarity may be discerned. From a purely artistic standpoint also the 
 Salt Lake is interesting ; the waters are of the most lovely and varied shades 
 of blue and green, and the surrounding country is fertile and beautiful. We 
 left the lake as the sun was setting, and looked back at it as we steamed 
 away from the city, gazing across plains white with salt to its placid waters, 
 over which was a pale green sheen ; the high purple cliffs stood like a 
 gateway in the west, and on the horizon a broad band of gold cast a stream 
 of gold upon the waves. 
 
 The party soon reached Ogden, and were delayed there from bad 
 management on the part of a railway official, who sent out the regular train, 
 which made frequent stops, and held back our special, which only stopped 
 
80 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 for fuel and water, until the other train was well out of our way. However, 
 we did start finally, and were soon going toward the home of the setting 
 sun at a fair speed, having a proud consciousness from our pleasant 
 impressions of Ogden that it meant something to be an American citizen. 
 Of course up to this point may be noted by examining the map shown 
 in Fig. 54. 
 
 By morning we were in the State of Nevada, and while we sat at 
 breakfast we saw a solitary Indian hunter, gun in hand, striding over the 
 prairie, evidently on a hunt, possibly seeking his breakfast. Chinamen were 
 also to be seen, and their names were as curious as their personal appear- 
 ance. Wun Lung — Wun Lung of Carlin, Nevada — was rather the most 
 startling ; and yet anyone who examined his smiling countenance would 
 not think he experienced any sense of deprivation. This may be due to the 
 extremely pure air, so that one lung here is as good as two anywhere else. 
 Our Kodak was fortunate at Carlin in obtaining a picture of an Indian 
 woman. The Indians are extremely difficult to photograph, esjjecially in 
 the case of the women, since they have a superstition that whoever possesses 
 their likeness can control the original, and may at any time cast a spell on 
 them. Instantaneous pictures are the only kind attainable, and these can 
 be procured by diplomacy, although one has to be very quick, and very sly 
 even then. They would cover their faces with their blankets as soon as the 
 Kodak appeared, and in some instances would cry from fear. The more 
 civilised would at times permit pictures to be taken at two bits each (25 
 cents), but these cases were not numerous. Journeying onward, we next 
 had our attention called to the Humboldt River, which in this section 
 literally disappears, although it is a good-sized stream, and passes away, its 
 waters being absorbed into the earth. 
 
 During the afternoon we passed the alkali plains, which usually cause 
 so much discomfort to travellers from the poisonous dust that arises and 
 permeates the air and the train, entering at every crack ; but here again 
 we were most fortunate, for the falling rain had drenched the earth, and 
 there was no discomfort whatever from the dust. At about 2 p.m. we 
 stopped at a little town, and it would be hard to imagine a picture more 
 utterly dreary and forsaken-looking. A few dirty white houses on very 
 broad clay streets which had neither grass nor trees, while the level prairie 
 stretched away in all directions, utterly barren of any object. On the plat- 
 form half a dozen squaws with gorgeous yellow and blue shawls about 
 their shoulders and around their copper-coloured faces, attracted the vigilant 
 
82 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yelloivstone. 
 
 Kodak fiends, who left the train in large numbers hoping for many snap 
 shots. But the gentle savages were horribly frightened, and, gathering in 
 a tight wad of shawls, protested in noises like cat-calls. One woman had a 
 papoose strapped on a board, and the ladies paid as much as 25 cents, for a 
 peep at its tiny face, though she refused to be photographed, although 
 no less than 1 dol. was offered for the privilege. 
 
 The cowboys, who stood around in groups and grinned at us, were 
 picturesque in their broad felt hats and big boots. One great creature with 
 an immense yellow beard attracted the notice of an inquisitive lady, so she 
 said : 
 
 " How long have you been in this place V 
 " Twenty-four years " was the reply. 
 " Why, whatever did you find to do here that long % " 
 " Oh ! I drink whisky mostly," said the giant, adding frankly, 
 " I don't drink it like you drink, I just swalleys it right down." 
 On passing Reno we soon entered the State of California, and pre- 
 sently began to go up the slope of the Sierras, running that night through 
 more than forty miles of snow sheds. At the summit the elevation was 
 7017 ft., and the grade had been 210 ft. to the mile. About midnight, after 
 passing through a long snow shed, the train was stopped alongside a snow 
 bank 7 ft. high, and placed on a side track till the morning, that the party 
 might enjoy the descent on the Pacific side by daylight. 
 
 It was at this point we were met by our future hosts, who had come in 
 a private train nearly 200 miles to welcome us, and with them they bore the 
 fruits of the country. They were evidently very wide awake, for we were 
 brought out of our beds at 5.30 a.m. and presented with fruit and flowers, 
 and an informal reception was at once organised in our combination car. 
 Each of our ladies was presented with a beautiful souvenir spoon made from 
 the silver of Nevada; it was shaped like a miner's shovel, and on the cross- 
 handle was a bear in relief, that being the emblem of California. Flowers 
 were showered upon us, and every part of the train was decorated ; even the 
 engine did not escape. The occasion was one of great gaiety, and the 
 warmth of our welcome made a most delightful contrast to the cold of the 
 snow and ice which surrounded us. Attaching their train to ours the 
 descent of the Sierras began, and the panorama from the windows seemed 
 to be like the changing of the seasons of the year, as we passed gradually 
 from the ice and snow of February to the early spring. The hill-sides 
 commenced to throw aside their wintry garments and to put on the cheerful 
 
The Pacific Slope. 83 
 
 green of April. The air grew milder and the valleys below began to stretch 
 away in luxuriant vegetation. Here and there a flash of gold along the grass 
 showed the presence of yellow poppies, mingled with masses of bluebells and 
 varied shades of clover and forget-me-nots. Next, as we whirled downwards, 
 we saw peach orchards in full bloom, and the various smaller fruit trees, 
 with many-hued blossoms, forming a most delightful contrast of colour, until 
 at last appeared the fig and orange trees. We were, in truth, in the Golden 
 State, and taking advantage of a halt, the entire party ran upon the station 
 platform like children, romping and shouting and inhaling with delight, deep 
 breaths of the fresh perfume-laden air, while near by was a jolly crowd of 
 labourers singing and gathering cherries. We contented ourselves, however, 
 with great bouquets of wild flowers of singular beauty. Later in the 
 morning we reached the town of Colfax. One great industry at this 
 place is the transport of freight by wagons from the railway to the interior. 
 Sacramento, the capital of California, was reached about noon. But before 
 arriving we received a telegram asking us to take part in the laying of a 
 corner stone by the Knight Templars, which had to be declined. The first 
 visit at Sacramento was that to the Southern Pacific shops, the party 
 being escorted by the superintendent of motive power. A beautiful souvenir 
 programme printed in blue and gold was given to us, and the following 
 quotation from it will best describe these shops and the city : 
 
 " Sacramento, which figured so prominently in the early days ot 
 California, is the capital of the State, with the glorious clime, the sunny 
 slopes and fertile valleys. It is situated in about the centre of the richest 
 and most productive valley of the State, the valley of the Sacramento ; and 
 in full view of the picturesque and lofty Sierra Nevada mountain range. 
 
 " Following the days of the discovery of gold in this State, it became 
 the chief distributing point of supplies and mining machinery to adjacent 
 mines, and is now the principal shipping centre of the fruit-growing 
 industries. Three-fourths of all the fruit shipped from this State each year 
 is sent from this city. It has a population of some 29,000, and is steadily 
 increasing. The residence portion of the city is beautifully laid out and 
 abounds in many handsome dwellings and buildings, the most important of 
 which is the State Capitol, situated in the heart of the city on a public park 
 embracing ten blocks. It is one of the finest structures of its kind in the 
 Union, and was erected at a cost of 7 million dollars. The State Printing 
 Office, the State Agricultural Exposition building, and an Art Gallery are 
 among its chief attractions ; the latter contains the finest collection of Art 
 
84 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 paintings on the Pacific Coast, and was donated to the city by that most 
 estimable and philanthropic of ladies, Mrs. E. B. Crocker. The city is 
 somewhat extensively engaged in manufacturing, is lighted by electricity, 
 and has excellent street and railroad facilities. 
 
 "Here are also located the main shops of the Southern Pacific Company 
 which cover an area of 42 acres, of which 17 acres are occupied by buildings 
 employing from 1800 to 2000 men continually, with a monthly pay roll of 
 125,000 dols. These shops are principally devoted to the maintenance and 
 rebuilding of rolling stock of the 4500 miles of railroad constituting the 
 Pacific system of the company, consisting of 731 locomotives, 931 passenger 
 train cars, and 15,712 freight and miscellaneous cars; also the general repair 
 work of the floating equipment of the company, consisting of 26 ferry and 
 river steamers, tugs, and barges. The works are conveniently arranged 
 for the rapid and systematic production of the different classes of work. 
 The machine shop is well equipped and has a travelling crane capable of 
 lifting the heaviest locomotive. The forge shop has a 30-ton jib crane, 
 numerous steam hammers, and can handle forgings up to 20 tons in weight. 
 The output of axles ranges from 40 to 50 per day. Here are also produced 
 the steel brake beams used on the road, which are forged from old steel 
 rails. The rolling mills have an annual production of 12,000 tons. The 
 wheel foundry has a capacity of 300 wheels per day, and the average daily 
 melt of the cupolas is about 60 tons. In the car shops, constructions, 
 repairs, painting, and upholstering for all classes of railway cars are well 
 provided for. The forests of California, Oregon, and Washington, furnish 
 the supply of lumber used here. The paint shop has a capacity for handling 
 21 passenger cars and 8 large Pullmans. In addition to the general railway 
 repair work, the output of these shops for 1891 was as follows : 
 
 " Chilled car wheels, 29,854 ; rolled iron, 12,753,997 lb. ; iron castings, 
 8,154,878 lb. ; brass castings, 265,295 lb. ; journal bearings, 241,7641b; 
 phosphor-bronze castings, 40,746 lb. ; Babbitt, 284,374 lb. ; track spikes, 
 2,460,900 lb. ; track bolts, 627,596 lb. ; nuts, 678,377 lb. ; angle plates for 
 track, 3,981,668 lb. Of new work there were built in late years some 63 
 locomotives, ranging from 8-wheeled passenger to 14-wheeled or Decapod 
 locomotives. 
 
 " The building of cars for last year was 547 new freight cars of 30-ton 
 capacity to replace worn-out small capacity cars. Everything used in the 
 construction of this new work was manufactured at the Sacramento shops. 
 The shops also have a well-organised fire brigade composed of 40 employe's, 
 
Sacramento. 
 
 85 
 
 with an equipment of 5 fire pumps and 5 hose carts ; and regular drills are 
 had every two weeks." 
 
 We went afterwards to the Crocker Art Gallery, and were quite 
 surprised at the number of the paintings and the care and skill displayed in 
 their selection. Many of the choice works, not only of the old masters but 
 of the great modern painters, were to be seen, and our only regret was the 
 brevity of our visit. The day was quite warm and the party was taken 
 
 Fig. 55. The Capitol, Sacramento. 
 
 to a large brewery, not only to see how beer was made, but to find out how 
 good it could taste, thus gratifying two senses. After this we drove around 
 the city viewing the many beautiful residences and passing through the 
 park ; a visit to the Capitol (shown in Fig. 55) completed a delightful 
 day. The interior of this building is as beautiful as the exterior. It is rich 
 in decoration, but nowhere is it overloaded with ornamentation. Many fine 
 portraits of the governors and statesmen adorn the walls, some of them early 
 pioneers in this great State. The grounds are also attractive and tastefully 
 laid out. 
 
86 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 That night, while slumbering peacefully, we were transported as 
 though by the wave of a magician's wand from the ordinary earth to 
 fairyland, for we waked to find ourselves at Monterey, and in front of the 
 celebrated Hotel del Monte. The writers feel their power utterly in- 
 adequate to picture the beauty of that morning wakening, and can only 
 hope the illustrations, which lack the various colours, will assist the reader's 
 
 Fig. 56. Hotel del Monte. 
 
 Fig. 57. The Arizona Garden. 
 
 imagination. Descending from the train we found ourselves surrounded by 
 a forest of pine and oak trees, and following the pathway for some distance 
 suddenly the scene (see Figs. 56 and 57) burst upon our eyes. Fig. 56 
 shows a part of one side and the greater part of the front of the hotel, and 
 was chosen so as to give the best idea of this beautiful place, which is 
 situated in a park of 120 acres, and surrounded by trees whose age runs far 
 
Monterey. 87 
 
 back into the last century ; nor is the general location of the town less 
 picturesque, for it is situated on a promontory having the Bay of Monterey 
 on one side, the Pacific Ocean in front, and Carmelo Bay on the third side. 
 Practically, for these bays are but arms of the ocean, it may be said to be 
 surrounded on three sides by the Pacific. It is difficult to single out any 
 one spot in the grounds of the hotel as more beautiful than any other where 
 all are so beautiful, yet the writers feel that special attention may be called 
 to the Arizona Garden (shown in Fig. 57). If but a portion of the many 
 colours there could be produced by the photographer's art, the reader 
 would feel that enthusiasm has not in any sense carried too far 
 appreciation of the beauty of this place. As we followed the winding 
 paths into the shade, one lovely vista after another opened before our eyes : 
 now a cluster of beds brilliant with the great blossoms of white, pink, 
 red, and even orange roses ; now a tropical garden or broad sweep of green 
 terrace to the Laguma del Rey, in whose centre rises the wavering jet of 
 a fountain. The soft air is laden with the perfume of flowers ; on one side 
 of the house is a portico draped with huge white roses, and the wall beside 
 it is covered with mammoth heliotrope. 
 
 Sea bathing is enjoyed all the year round, and not far from the hotel 
 is a handsome pavilion, designed for those who find the outdoor bathing 
 too bracing. This contains four immense swimming tanks of varying 
 temperature, and is roofed with glass, floored with marble, and decorated 
 with numerous palms. When there is added to this a beautifully appointed 
 hotel, with every provision of comfort, good service, a great variety of 
 tempting food, well cooked, and appetisingly served, is it a wonder our 
 party found it most difficult to leave the spot ? Or that it remains a 
 distinct feature in the many pleasant recollections of this attractive 
 journey ? 
 
 In the afternoon, many of the party visited the quaint old town of 
 Monterey, distant about a mile from the hotel. The mind at once ran back 
 to that great and noble struggle carried on in these crooked streets and 
 lanes, nearly three centuries ago, and we may quote at this place from the 
 historical record. 
 
 " From the earliest period of California's history," says Harrison in 
 his " History of Monterey County," " Monterey has been conspicuous as 
 the objective point of navigators and explorers, and the arena where were 
 enacted many of the important political and historical events of the county. 
 As early as 1602, Don Sebastian Vizcaino, sailing under instructions from 
 
88 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 Philip III. of Spain, entered Monterey Bay, and landing with two priests 
 and a body of soldiers, took possession of the country for the king. A 
 cross was erected and an altar improvised under an oak tree, at which was 
 celebrated the first mass ever heard in the land now known as California. 
 The place was named in honour of the Viceroy of Mexico, Gaspar de 
 Zuniga, Count of Monterey, the projector and patron of the expedition. 
 The departure of this expedition returned the place to its primitive con- 
 dition, and the silence in its history was not broken for a period of 168 
 years. When Father Junipero Sera, president of the band of Franciscan 
 missionaries sent to the coast in 1768, was planning his work in California, 
 the most cherished object of his expedition was the founding of a mission 
 at the Monterey of Vizcaino's discovery. In 1770, this cherished dream 
 
 Fig. 58. The Carmel Mission. 
 
 was realised, and the Mission de San Carlos de Monterey was established 
 on the 3rd of June of that year, ' being the holy day of Pentecost,' as the 
 Father expresses it. About +he end of the year 1771, the mission was 
 moved to Carmelo Valley, some five miles from the Bay of Monterey, and 
 called the Mission San Carlos de Carmelo. This was done by order of 
 His Excellency the Marquis de Croix ; and here, on the banks of the 
 Carmelo River, still stands the old stone church then erected, beneath 
 whose sanctuary repose the remains of Father Serra and three of his 
 co-workers, including Father Crispi, his trusted friend and adviser 
 (Fig. 58). The presidio, or military establishment, still remained at 
 Monterey. In its inclosure was the chapel, which is the site of the present 
 Catholic church ; while on the hill overlooking the bay was erected a rude 
 
The Pacific Coast. 
 
 89 
 
 fort, the remains of which are still discernible." We also noted with 
 interest the building shown in Fig. 59, which was the first capitol of 
 California. 
 
 After this trip, we went on a most wonderful excursion known as " the 
 eighteen mile drive." After going for some distance through the gently 
 rolling fields, strewn with wild flowers, we reached the pine forests, where the 
 pale yellow moss waves from the branches of the trees ; then we climbed a 
 hill, and through a gap in the branches gazed far out across the ocean. Thus 
 for the first time we saw the great Pacific, and as we reached the summit 
 of the hill, and before us the vast expanse of the blue waves rolled to the 
 bluer sky, we wondered what must have been in the mind of the " eagle- 
 eyed " discoverer when he and his followers stood in wonder " silent upon 
 a peak in Darien." 
 
 
 
 :j B ir ST p^ 
 
 -S^ 
 
 i£jr ■•■■ 
 
 ■^-^«Bp|MMjpg; ~l 
 
 ifiSS 
 
 
 Fig. 59. Calton Hall. 
 
 Many of us went down on to the shore, to pick up the curiously 
 marked round pebbles, and to watch the long slow waves foam gently up 
 the beach. Soon we came to the far-famed cypress trees (Fig. 60), which 
 writhe and twist their gaunt limbs along a stretch of wild rocky coast. 
 It has been suggested that these strange uncanny trees sprang from the 
 seeds of the cedars of Lebanon brought by the first missionaries, but many 
 of them give evidence that they are even more ancient than the earliest 
 settlers. Distorted in every conceivable shape, and hung with pale moss, 
 they hardly seem like trees, but rather wild creatures of the waves hung 
 with dripping seaweed and struggling to escape from some invisible chain. 
 A little further on, the seal rocks came into view, covered with waddling 
 
 N 
 
90 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yelloiostone. 
 
 flapping beasts, and surrounded by others lithe and graceful in the water, 
 while on the top of the rock perched flocks of ugly cormorants. 
 
 The next afternoon a party of five started on a horseback ride over the 
 fine roads. The weather was such as New Yorkers enjoy about the first of 
 June, or, in other words, perfection, and as we " loped " along beyond the 
 town, gazing out over the curve of the beautiful bay, life seemed decidedly 
 worth living. We passed the marble statue of Father Junipero Serra 
 (Fig. 61), represented in the act of stepping from his boat, and located on 
 the spot where he first landed ; and we were constantly passing lovely little 
 houses, many with hedges of calla lilies in full bloom. We next descended 
 
 Fig. 60. Grove of Cyprus Trees. 
 
 to the shore, and raced along where the bright waves rippled up to the 
 horses' feet, while the fresh salt breezes blew over us ; then we galloped 
 back to the hotel through the avenues of arching trees. Like many other 
 places of less note, Monterey has its " 400." In this instance, however, 
 they are Chinese, although it may be said they are just as exclusive as their 
 more famed brethern of New York City, and live by themselves in one 
 quarter of the town. After attending a sacred concert on Sunday evening, 
 the party retired to their rooms, and the next morning we left with the 
 greatest regret this charming Hotel del Monte and the beautiful Monterey. 
 The journey beyond was delightful, passing through the celebrated 
 Santa Clara Valley, both sides of the track being equally beautiful, our 
 route lying in front of the Santa Cruz range, some miles away, and the 
 tops of which were frequently crowned with snow, At one point of the 
 
Leland Stanford University. 91 
 
 journey we had a view of the celebrated Lick Observatory, resting on one 
 of the lower peaks of Mount Hamilton. Later, two of the party went 
 there, and had the usual experience in their ascent to it, viz., a terribly hard 
 ride, a poor meal, and an extortionate charge for transportation, but tbey 
 saw the big telescope, which the rest of us fortunately were willing to take 
 for granted. The journey was pleasantly broken by a stop at Palo Alto, for 
 the purpose of visiting the Leland Stanford Junior University, under the 
 guidance of one of its most distinguished professors, Professor Horace 
 
 Fig. 61. Monument of Father Junipero Serra. 
 
 Gale, who is a member of the Society of Mechanical Engineers. In the 
 construction of these beautiful buildings, and the endowment of this great 
 University, Mr. and Mrs. Leland Stanford desired to erect to the memory 
 of their son, Leland Stanford, Jun., who died in Florence, Italy, in 1884, a 
 noble and enduring monument. 
 
 The endowment consists of three tracts of land, to be held for ever 
 inalienable, the rents and profits to be used for the maintenance of the 
 University. This grant does not take effect until after the death of the 
 donors. The trustees will then enter upon their charge, and perform the 
 duties of managing the lands. They must either farm or lease them, but 
 cannot sell any part of them. The total acreage of land endowed is about 
 85,000, consisting of 8400 acres at Palo Alto, Santa Clara County, Cal., 
 
92 
 
 TJie Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 where the University is located. The beautiful summer residence of Mr. 
 and Mrs. Stanford forms a picturesque part of this tract. The lawns and 
 gardens surrounding this mansion occupy about 400 acres. In this area is 
 also located the world's famous trotting farm of 55,000 acres, known as the 
 Vina Estate, in Tehama County ; 4000 acres are planted in vines (the 
 largest vineyard in the world) .; 22,000 acres, known as the Gridley Ranch, 
 in Butte County, are devoted mainly to the raising of wheat. The value 
 of the entire endowment is estimated at 20,000,000 dols. It has been sub- 
 sequently announced that the grantors have made additional provisions in 
 their wills, so that the University will have ample endowment for all time. 
 
 The original architectural study for the University was the San 
 Antonio Mission, shown in Fig. 62, and the result is an attractive structure 
 
 Fig. 62. The San Antonio Mission. 
 
 of yellow buff sandstone with the foothills for a background. Various 
 illustrations of this University were furnished by Professor Buchanan, and 
 the writers are indebted for the statements about the Institution to Professor 
 Gale. The twelve buildings are connected by corridors, the main one 
 appearing in Fig. 64. The tuition is free, and although but recently 
 opened, there were over 500 students in attendance, 100 of whom are 
 young ladies, and the indications were that before the end of the year there 
 would be 1000. Board is fixed at 20 dols. per month, and there is every 
 inducement to a deserving student, even though possessed of but moderate 
 means. It is the ultimate intention to inclose the present quadrangle by 
 another side two stories high, whose arcade will face outward, and to 
 provide a grand Romanesque arch for the entrance. 
 
 Passing through the arch now used as an entrance, the visitor comes 
 
Fig. 63. Quadrangle, Leland Stanford University. 
 
 Fig. 64. Main Corridor, Leland Stanford University. 
 
94 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 upon a smooth asphalt court, with beautiful flower beds at convenient points 
 as shown in Fig. 63. Spanish titles for the various buildings prevail to a 
 great extent, and in fact, as this country not very long since was Mexican, 
 the traveller finds Spanish names everywhere. Encina Hall (Fig. 65), so 
 named from the Spanish, meaning live oak, occupies a space 312 ft. long by 
 150 ft. wide, and will accommodate 300 boys. It is a massive structure of 
 five stories, and built of yellow sandstone similar to that used in the quad- 
 rangle. A portico extends the entire length of the building, at the centre 
 of which is a broad flight of steps leading up to the main entrance. The 
 interior is divided into halls and rooms of convenient size, each apartment 
 being furnished with electric light, steam, hot and cold water. The wood- 
 work is of polished oak and southern pine. The several floors are soon to 
 be connected with elevators, and this will complete one of the most per- 
 fectly equipped dormitories in the world. A concrete walk leading from the 
 dormitory connects with the quadrangle, and also continues to Roble Hall, 
 which is the dormitory for the young ladies. 
 
 The Museum (Fig. 66), erected to the memory of Leland Stanford, 
 Jun., is situated about five hundred yards north from the main entrance to 
 the University. It is an imposing structure of concrete, 368 ft. front, and 
 with a depth and altitude of 186 ft. and 58 ft. respectively. The entrance, 
 consisting of a partly inclosed portico, supported by immense pillars, 
 crowned with an entablature of Ionic architecture, is approached by a broad 
 flight of marble steps, and is crowned by four statues representing Hero- 
 dotus, Plato, Plutarch, and Aristotle. The interior of the Museum, when 
 finished and furnished, will be well worth a visit to Palo Alto. The main 
 vestibule is lined with Italian marble, and lighted by an immense skylight 
 from a dome 60 ft. by 50 ft., the largest self-supporting concrete dome in 
 the world. At the right of the vestibule is the Egyptian Gallery, named 
 from the style in which it is finished ; on the left is the Grecian Gallery. 
 Collectors are now in the famous Parisian and Italian galleries making a 
 collection for the great Art Galleiy of the western coast. The corres- 
 ponding rooms on the second floor will contain curiosities of every descrip- 
 tion. In the main vestibule is to stand a statuary group of the family. 
 This statue is nearing completion in Italy. 
 
 At the end of a great cypress avenue leading from the University 
 stands the Mausoleum. (Fig. 67.) It is in the form of a Greek temple, 
 guarded by sphinxes on either side of the entrance. This sepulchie, con- 
 structed of white marble, provides a magnificent resting place for the dead. 
 
Fig. 65. Encina Hall. 
 
 J 
 
 
 ^^■mSB 
 
 
 
 Fig. 66. The Leland Stanford Museum. 
 
 Fig. 67. The Leland Stanford Mausoleum. 
 
96 
 
 Tiie Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 In a sunny spot near the Mausoleum, is a collection of rare and curious 
 cactus plants, most of which are native of the deserts of Arizona. Their 
 sides gleam with sharp spears, and they look like giant sentinels guarding 
 the approach to the sepulchre. They are not objects of particular beauty, 
 but as curiosities they do not fail to catch the eye of the visitor. 
 
 We next were taken through the machine shop 178 ft. by 50 ft., and 
 adjacent to it is the Power House seen in Fig. 68. The latter contains 
 four 100 horse-power boilers, and the chimney is 30 ft. in diameter and 
 80 ft. high. 
 
 Fig. 68. Power House, Leland Stanford University. 
 
 This is the first year of this University, and of course the shop is but 
 partially fitted up, but whatever has been done has been well done, and the 
 instruction in shop work promises to be of the most thorough and practical 
 kind, just what those who know Professor Gale would expect from a depart- 
 ment under his administration. The Library was a very pleasant room, and 
 the chapel was tastefully decorated, and extremely attractive. The party 
 were greatly pleased with their visit, and were taken by a lovely road to the 
 celebrated stock farm of Mr. Stanford, and treated to a view of some of the 
 fastest trotting stallions in the world, as for instance Palo Alto, who trotted 
 a mile in 2 min. 8| sec. ; he has since died. Sunol and Arion were also 
 
San Francisco. 97 
 
 bred and trained here. The care the horses receive seems to be even 
 greater than that bestowed on children, and certainly they were a most 
 attractive sight, their coats shining as though varnished, and their feet care- 
 fully washed, while the symmetry of their form and their beautiful clear 
 eyes, fixed the admiring glances of us all. But leaving these pleasant 
 scenes, where to linger would have been a delight, we were whisked away 
 through a constantly changing and most picturesque panorama amid vines 
 and fruit trees, past attractive brooks and luxuriant groves, until about 
 noon we reached the city for which we had started so long before, and were 
 landed safe, though hungry and dusty, at the Palace Hotel in San Francisco. 
 
 The popular impression regarding San Francisco, entertained by those 
 who have never been there, is that the city dates its origin from modern 
 times. In point of fact it is one of the oldest cities of the United States, 
 and was settled under the name of Yerba Buena. The founder was the 
 celebrated Junipero Serra, whose monument was seen at Monterey, but in 
 1595, an explorer was wrecked in the Bay of San Francisco, and having 
 thus landed in spite of himself, proceeded to explore the adjacent country. 
 Mexico ceded California to the United States in 1848, and with the 
 discovery of gold in the State, a new era dawned upon the city ; the 
 name was changed in 1847 to San Francisco, and there is a painting of the 
 place as it looked then, still in existence. 
 
 The growth of the city under our Government was most rapid, and 
 despite earthquakes and fires, by 1890 it had become the ninth city as to 
 population in the United States. There was great lawlessness in those 
 earlier times, for bands of ruffians and adventurers from all parts of the 
 world flocked to the Golden State. Matters finally became so desperate 
 that the better class of citizens organised a " vigilance committee," and a 
 few sudden deaths occurring among the lawless element, and several public 
 executions from the windows of the rooms occupied by this vigilance 
 committee, caused a general stampede of the gamblers and assassins. With 
 their exit there came quiet times and a healthy growth. The energy of the 
 citizens sought constantly for new outlets of trade, and San Francisco became 
 the foremost city on the Pacific Coast, adding new fame to the great country 
 of which she is to-day a prominent and attractive city. In 1890 the city 
 extended all over the sandhills and along the coast, presenting a most 
 delightful picture. One of the most prominent and attractive buildings is 
 the new City Hall, not quite completed, although it has been over fifteen 
 years under construction, and nearly 4,000,000 dols. have been expended on it. 
 
 o 
 
98 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 The completed structure is shown in Fig. 69, and is a building any city in 
 the world may be proud of. The first impression of San Francisco is, that 
 the city is very extensive, that the buildings are very high, and that the 
 noise of the electric cars, produced by the incessant clanging of their 
 warning bells is something terrific, but this last one gets accustomed to, and 
 finally almost fails to notice. 
 
 The Palace Hotel were we stopped is, in the writers' opinion, one of the 
 finest and worst managed places of its kind in the United States. It is 
 modelled somewhat on the style of the Grand Hotel in Paris, being built 
 around a courtyard closed at the top by a glass roof, and the hotel is 
 
 Fig. 69. The City Hall, San Francisco. 
 
 arranged with galleries on the four sides. Properly managed, it would be 
 one of the attractions of San Francisco ; as it is managed, it is any thing 
 but an attraction. The food is excellent and properly cooked, but the 
 service would have had such an effect on the Prophet Moses in twenty-four 
 hours, as to cause him to forfeit for ever the title of the " meekest man." 
 After trying every method in vain to obtain even notice — not attention — 
 the sterner of the writers resolved to see what personal appeal at head- 
 quarters would do, and he went to the office, getting no satisfaction, his 
 sunny spirit became clouded, and he advised the proprietor to get a tailor's 
 dummy, and put on it a dress suit, mount the effigy on wheels, and move it 
 around in the dining room, thus saving the wages of his head waiter. But if 
 the hotel service was bad, the hospitality of the people made amends for it ; 
 they were glad to see us, and showed it in every manner possible, even to 
 
San Francisco. 
 
 99 
 
 arranging to have any of the engineers and their ladies carried free over all 
 the cable lines in the city. 
 
 The convention was a most successful one, and the papers read and 
 discussed were full of interest, but it is not with them this story has to do, 
 so we will pass at once to the excursions planned for our entertainment. 
 After being received and welcomed in a very appropriate speech by the 
 mayor, the party were invited to visit the various systems of cable railways. 
 San Francisco is built on a series of hills, some of them very steep, and 
 cable lines extend in every direction. We had the advantage of making 
 this trip under the direction of the original projector of these lines, Mr. 
 A. S. Hallidie, whose untiring efforts contributed greatly to our pleasure 
 and instruction. The system was put in operation about] 20 years ao-o 
 
 Fig. 70. The Golden Gate. 
 
 and the speed was but four miles an hour. There are now upwards of 20 
 miles of cable lines in San Francisco, and their effect on property has been 
 wonderful. Lots costing originally 600 dols. each, are to day worth several 
 thousands. The city commenced to grow in those directions where these 
 lines were laid, and nearly 2,000,000 dols. is invested in the cable system. 
 
 Another excursion which was greatly enjoyed, was a trip taken in a 
 large ocean tug down to the Golden Gate, Fig. 70, as the entrance to the 
 harbour is called, and in going there the party passed along the water front. 
 The view of the great city as it lay spread out over the slope of the hills 
 was most pleasing. As the fast sea-tug sped along, and we drew nearer 
 and nearer to the opening between the rocky cliffs which marks the entrance 
 to the harbour, we began to realise that the water was not in the glassy and 
 calm condition that the Pacific should preserve, and that the tug was 
 
100 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 obeying the laws of gravity to an extent that threatened to be alarming. 
 Many of the party grew solemn, and reflected on the uncertainty of human 
 life. Bat we still sped towards the open ocean, and soon the long blue 
 waves began to swing the tug, although she was a large boat, on their 
 crests ; they were not angry and turbulent, but were cruelly deliberate, long 
 slow waves, taking plenty of time for their full effect, tranquil as oil, with a 
 steady rise and deadly sweep down, with which every landsman is so sadly 
 familiar. One of the managers of the party, who was seated on the upper 
 deck enjoying the sail, noticed an unusual quiet on the lower deck, quite 
 different from the hilarity which had prevailed at the start, and went below 
 to inspect and ascertain the cause. One look around was sufficient, the 
 silence was far more eloquent than language, and the tug, which had been 
 assuming the various vertical angles incident to a condition of unstable 
 equilibrium, was turned through a horizontal angle of 180 deg., just in time 
 to prevent a crisis, and we headed for Mare Island, which was soon reached 
 after a most delightful sail. The Government Navy Yard is located here, 
 and it is well worth a visit, to say nothing of the pleasure of going there. 
 Some of the White Squadron were here, and after being welcomed by the 
 commandant, the party inspected them, and a few, the writers among them, 
 enjoyed a breakfast on the cruiser " Boston." 
 
 San Francisco has a water company that could supply enough of this 
 fluid to saturate the rail-stock of Wall-street, and after this no one will 
 doubt its capacity. The party were invited to inspect the Crystal Springs 
 Dam, and accepted with much pleasure. The Southern Pacific Railway 
 took them by special train to San Mateo, and thence they were conveyed in 
 carriages some ten miles further. The beautiful residences in the centres of 
 parks, under a system of complete landscape gardening, were the remark of 
 all, and those fortunate enough to have visited England in 1889, with this 
 Society, were frequently reminded of some of England's finest mansions. 
 The profusion of exquisite flowers growing everywhere out of doors 
 astonished the visitors, and lent magnificent colour to the scene. The dam 
 itself was a noble structure, the wall being in places 145 ft. in height. It 
 was stated that 250,000 barrels of Portland cement were used in its 
 construction. This delightful day was appropriately closed by an open air 
 lunch spread beneath enormous trees, and where a fluid more exhilarating 
 than spring valley water, flowed in abundance. 
 
 One more trip in San Francisco remains to be chronicled, and that was 
 incident to an invitation from Adolph Sutro to breakfast at his residence 
 
The Cliff House. 
 
 101 
 
 and inspect the Cliff House and Sutro Heights. No one visiting San 
 Francisco should fail to visit these two places, for they are reached by a 
 short trip in the cable and steam cars, of about half an hour. Our host met 
 us at the entrance to Sutro Park, and conducted us through it. 
 
 The work Mr. Sutro has done here is a shining example of pure 
 philanthropy. A barren cliff surrounded by sandhills, and facing the open 
 ocean, was all there was to be seen in this place ten years ago. Mr. Sutro 
 has laid out a beautiful park with handsome shrubbery, fine lawns, and 
 gravelled walks. He has filled the place with rare and beautiful plants and 
 trees, adorned it with statues, and thrown it open to the public for their 
 pleasure ground. The cool breezes from the ocean render this a delightful 
 spot to all, and the poorest classes, as well as the rich, find pleasure and 
 health from Mr. Sutro's liberality. 
 
 Eig. 71. The Cliff House, San Francisco. 
 
 A few animals are to be seen, such as monkeys, bears, and deer, that 
 lend interest to the scene. The cliffs are, however, the great object of 
 interest ; they are on one side of the shore of the Golden Gate, and are 
 about 200 ft. above the ocean. 
 
 The Cliff House, shown in Fig. 71, is a restaurant, a place for basket 
 lunches and an outlook into the open Pacific. The shore below is filled with 
 happy children playing in the sand, or wading in the water. But the great 
 attractions at the Cliff House are the Seal Eocks, shown in Figs. 72 and 73. 
 As these animals are protected by law, they have multiplied rapidly, and are 
 a never failing source of entertainment. It is impossible to imagine any 
 animal having a better time than the seals, and when swimming in the 
 water they are a most pleasing sight. Their heads with their large and 
 
102 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 beautiful eyes, have a wonderful appearance, but when they get on the 
 rocks, and waddle with a heavy lumbering motion, wriggling their huge 
 satiny bodies along the earth, they resemble huge slugs. The waves are 
 constantly breaking against these rocks, and one of the favourite amuse- 
 ments of the seal is to hold on close to the edge and let the waves wash him 
 off. The old bulls frequently indulge in a fight, and butt each other or 
 
 Fig. 73. Sea Lions, San Francisco. 
 
 strike with their flijDpers, uttering the most tremendous roars of rage. 
 Their size is very great, and it was stated they will consume from 40 lb. to 
 60 lb. of fish each per day. 
 
 Mr. Sutro's philanthropy does not stop with the park he has laid out. 
 At the time of our visit, he was completing an enormous marine aquarium, 
 having excavated, at a great expense, a large plot containing many acres at 
 
San Francisco. 103 
 
 the base of the cliff, and in the centre he has left a part of the original 
 rock, which will be an island. Adjacent to this aquarium are very large 
 swimming baths provided with an arrangement of steam pipes by which 
 the water may be heated to any desired temperature, the floors of them 
 being cement. This is to be free to the public. The method of supplying 
 the sea water shows not only that Mr. Sutro is an engineer, but that his 
 experience with the celebrated Sutro Tunnel is still in his mind. The sea 
 water comes through a tunnel connected with a large storage basin. The 
 latter is so located that at high tide the water dashes over its sea face, 
 then by means of gates it can be fed into the aquarium or baths as desired. 
 Any sand in suspension is caught in transit and returned to the ocean. 
 Mr. Sutro's pastime is to inspect all this work daily, and oftener even, and 
 this growing monument to his munificence and philanthropy must be a 
 constant source of delight. 
 
 After leaving this hospitable mansion, the party were driven through 
 Golden Gate Park for the city of San Francisco, having seen what Mr. 
 Sutro has done, and quietly learned its lessons. He is busily engaged in 
 making a most attractive park out of the adjacent sandhills. About 1013 
 acres are contained in this tract, and fine roads and promenades are to be 
 seen in all directions. Several beautiful statues have been erected, one of 
 the finest being that to President Garfield. The great attraction of this 
 park, is, however, the conservatory, constructed of glass and iron, and 
 250 ft. long by 60 ft. in width, the dome rising to a height of 58 ft. It 
 contains many exquisite varieties of flowers and a fountain of unique 
 design — viz., a swan surrounded by magnolias upholding a bowl in which 
 is a mermaid holding on her shoulder a sea shell, in which the fountain 
 plays. 
 
 The suburbs of San Francisco were the next points visited ; they well 
 repaid the excursion. No visitor should omit seeing Berkeley and Oakland 
 just across the bay, both easily reached by ferryboat. These places are 
 principally occupied as residences for the San Francisco business men, 
 and are full of beautiful drives bordered by many magnificent houses. San 
 Francisco has also several fine clubs, one of the principal being the Pacific 
 Union • near by it is the Cosmos Club, one of the most home-like places 
 imaginable. The Bohemian is also celebrated, taking in, as its name 
 implies, journalists and actors for the most part, although comprising in its 
 members some of the leading men of the city. That evening there occurred 
 one of those hospitable receptions which serve to make life brighter. 
 
104 
 
 T7i e Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yelloivstone. 
 
 This party, like all of Messrs. Raymond and Whitcomb's, was under 
 the personal charge of a conductor, to whom we looked for everything, 
 even our daily bread. Now these gentlemen, with that great knowledge 
 of detail, which has made their parties so delightful, have selected their 
 conductors with great skill, and our special one was a man whose nature 
 was as gentle and kind as that of a woman, and yet when necessary, he 
 could be as firm as a rock ; he was, in fact, a true gentleman, and a man of 
 cultivation. His conduct of the party had been so happy that by one of 
 those spontaneous movements it was decided to present him with a slight 
 
 Fig. 74. C. A. Cooke. 
 
 token of our respect and esteem, and this was done in the hotel parlour 
 by one of our party, who made a most happy little speech, and gave him 
 a very pretty locket with the Society monogram in diamonds on it. Our 
 good friend Mr. Cooke was completely overcome with pleasure, and 
 expressed his embarrassment in a few words, blushing like a school-girl, to 
 the great delight of all the ladies, who could hardly imagine this large 
 6 ft. 2 in. man showing, what in them would have been considered a 
 weakness. 
 
 The writer is glad to chronicle this little episode and to suggest to 
 others not only to go to California under Raymond and Whitcomb's 
 auspices, bat under Mr. Cooke's personal charge. It is really the 
 perfection of travelling ; the sole trouble is that it spoils one for ordinary 
 methods. The passenger under these auspices simply takes care of himself. 
 
San Francisco; Chinatown. 105 
 
 The entire party are registered in advance of their arrival at any place ; 
 just before leaving the train each traveller is handed a ticket bearing the 
 name of his hotel and the number of the room assigned to him ; he just 
 takes the elevator and goes to it. Frequently he finds his baggage has 
 been sent in advance, and is awaiting him in the room, or, if not, it is 
 sure to be there within half-an-hour. Even hand baggage is taken charge 
 of, and as the hotels are invariably the best in the place, and he is taken 
 there from the station, it is impossible to grumble with any show of reason. 
 The writers are not advertising these gentlemen, but simply stating the 
 facts as verified by their personal experience. 
 
 No visit to San Francisco is ever considered complete until a trip has 
 been taken through Chinatown, and receiving an invitation from a city 
 official to accompany a party of Boston aldermen, guests of the city, one of 
 the writers saw this portion of San Francisco in its entirety and to its dregs. 
 It is all very well for eastern men, and for foreign nations, to talk about 
 the inconsistency of Americans in proclaiming America as a land for the 
 oppressed of all nations, and then labouring to exclude the Mongolians. Let 
 any one who entertains these sentiments— because such views are purely 
 sentimental — if he is a man of intelligence, make one careful visit to the 
 Chinese quarter in San Francisco, and he will be confronted with a problem 
 which cannot be solved by theory, but will require the most careful study of 
 a real practical nature. It is not that Chinese are more vicious than other 
 nations ; to their credit and to our shame, it may be said, they can claim a 
 favourable comparison with a far higher civilisation. But they establish 
 themselves in a strictly exclusive community, whose whole aim is hostile to 
 the principles of our government ; they live in a way that is demoralising 
 and degrading ; they are not amenable to any influences tending to improve 
 them, and, what is worse than all, they never assimilate with the people 
 around them so as to be brought in contact in time with anything which 
 may tend to elevate them. Living as they do, they are brought into direct 
 competition with our labouring classes, and are enabled to affect seriously 
 the source of livelihood of our citizens. They add nothing to the wealth of 
 the land, but in time return to China, taking with them the money they 
 have accumulated. This is neither the time nor place to discuss the Chinese 
 question, but with these thoughts in view, which are full of suggestiveness, 
 the reader is asked to go to Chinatown, and the distance is so short that in 
 five minutes' walk from the best parts of San Francisco the visitor finds 
 himself in the heart of this foreign quarter. 
 
 p 
 
106 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 Fascinating place ! where one is suddenly transported from the western 
 city with all its high civilisation, to the very heart of China, where the 
 Avearers of the pigtail swarm on every side in garments of gorgeous hues, 
 where the strongest odours fill the nostrils and the strangest sights greet 
 the eye. As for the shops, with their gilded carvings and embroidered 
 stuffs and tiny images, and the sweet perfume of the sandal-wood, they were 
 simply enticing, and our ladies spent a large part of their time there, trying 
 on one loose robe after another, admiring the delicate china, and attempting 
 conversation with the affable little Celestials who patiently followed them 
 about. One round-faced boy was particularly untiring, and showed us 
 carved ivory and lacquered trays without end. As he spoke very little 
 English we communicated principally by signs and nods, he grinning with 
 delight when he caught our ideas. We bought a number of trifles, which he 
 carefully packed in straw, and on our asking if he would be sure to send 
 them in time, he replied with a smile of pride — ■ 
 
 " Yes, yes ; five between six." 
 
 One of our party who was an enthusiastic photographer was much 
 disappointed in Chinatown, for the people ran from him as if from a plague, 
 and though he spent a whole afternoon there he was utterly unsuccessful. 
 Taught by experience, however, he returned the next day and adopted the 
 following ingenious tactics. He would stroll along the street in a most 
 nonchalant manner, with his camera open and set, staring at the buildings 
 and behaving rather strangely. Gradually a small crowd, principally 
 composed of children, would follow him at what they fondly supposed to 
 be a safe distance. When the pattering footsteps assured the fox that 
 the geese were close at hand he would quickly shake off his abstraction, 
 wheel about, and snap them as they scattered. Some of the results 
 were excellent photographs, and others were laughable views of flying 
 pigtails. The streets are thronged at all hours of the day and night with 
 Chinese, both men and women, boys and girls, for in the space of four 
 or five city blocks are packed some 30,000 of these people. Chinese 
 shops line both sides of the streets, and are extremely interesting to the 
 visitor. The drug stores are a study, all the contents being brought from 
 China. Snake skins, powdered locusts, together with many herbs and 
 drugs, are on the shelves. Dried fish, edible birds' nests, fruits, nuts, &c, 
 are to be seen in the grocery shops. What the butchers' shops contained, 
 not even a Solomon could have decided, for there is no nation more adept 
 in the art of concealment, and they carry it to the highest point of perfection 
 
San Francisco ; Chinatown. 107 
 
 in their viands. The joss houses are to be seen also, and a "visit to thtm is 
 quite interesting. The walls of the entrance are covered with what seems 
 to be the labels to fire-crackers, but on inquiry we were told they were the 
 names of subscribers to a collection. If this was true, the Chinese in 
 America are liberal to their gods. On ascending one flight of stairs we 
 were met by a priest, who sold us bundles of fragrant wood to be burned as 
 a prayer or offering. There were embroideries on the walls of dragons and 
 other monsters in heavy gold work. There were three hideous idols placed 
 behind tables, on which were offerings apparently of fruit and food, but 
 evidently the Chinaman has found this expensive, so, with true economy, 
 he has substituted for the real article an imitation in coloured wax or some 
 other plastic material. The ceremony begins with sounding a gong to wake 
 the joss, who is always in a somnolent state, then little tapers are burned 
 before him ; the priest prostrates himself, and, for all the visitor knows, 
 may be beseeching the joss to remove the intruder to Sheol at the earliest 
 opportunity. There was a large spear in the joss house, which the Chinese 
 priest declared very heavy, and only to be handled by the joss, but we lifted 
 it with but slight effort. The next place of interest visited was the Chinese 
 restaurant. It was clean and attractively furnished, and remembering 
 St. Paul's injunction, " Eat those things that are set before you, asking no 
 questions for conscience' sake," we followed it. The tea was very fine, and 
 the sweetmeats were delicious. The cigars, too, were satisfactory. 
 
 If Chinatown was enticing in the daytime, when the pitiless sunlight 
 showed all the dirt in the streets, how doubly fascinating was it at night, 
 when in the uncertain light of the swinging paper-lanterns it seemed like a 
 strange scene from a fairy tale ! Gazing down the dimly lighted street, a 
 bright spot showed a goldsmith sitting cross-legged before a jet of flame, 
 his yellow face bending over his work. It was interesting, too, to stand 
 near some butcher's shop and watch the people going in to buy the strange- 
 looking wares, or passing by in the square of light before the door, the 
 women in their loose, graceful robes, some of green or scarlet silk, 
 embroidered with gold, and the toddling children clothed in four or five 
 colours at once, with pink and blue silk braided in their shiny cues. 
 
 "But," says the reader, "all this is interesting, and nothing appears to 
 justify your charges against this people." No, my friend, all this is above 
 ground. Now descend at night this flight of steps in a dark alley, and 
 enter into a narrow passage some 10 ft. below the ground. You would 
 probably imagine yourself in a mine, passing along one of its gangways. 
 
108 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 The guide opens a door, after having taken the precaution to tell you to 
 puff well on your cigar. You notice there are similar doors along this 
 passage at intervals. You see seated on a stool a figure smoking, and note 
 around this den, which is about 6 ft. square, that there are three tiers of 
 rough bunks, each containing a sleeping figure. You are indeed in " under- 
 ground China." In this room are twelve Chinamen, with absolutely no 
 ventilation or light, except from a small lamp, who are consuming whatever 
 oxygen the lamp has left, by their tobacco or opium, as the case may be. 
 There are thousands literally living just this way. A little larger room 
 may contain more men, that is all. The idea is to give each man just 
 enough room to lie in, say 6 ft. by about 2 ft. Even swine have more 
 room. The food is cooked over a common fire, and consists mostly of rice 
 or refuse, perhaps both. The sanitary condition is something appalling, 
 and why they don't die by the score no one can say. Any other nationality 
 would be extinct from this cause alone. This visit was carried on for 
 a considerable time, with occasional retreats to the surface for air ; the 
 writer determined to see for himself and not to accept any one's statement. 
 A few years ago this trip would have been attended with great personal 
 risk, and ended abruptly with the disappearance of the seeker ; now, 
 however, it is not dangerous, unless one encounters a drunken Chinaman 
 and has a row with him. In one den we saw living in a place just large 
 enough to hold three persons standing, an insane blind Chinese woman, 
 with a parrot, a cat, and a dog. It is impossible to depict these scenes any 
 further in a history like this. Let the reader's imagination be stimulated 
 with the statement that there are worse scenes than these described, as to 
 their filth and squalor, and we will pass at once to a more cheerful Chinese 
 subject, viz., the Chinese theatre. 
 
 The entrance to this place is through an underground passage, with 
 small dressing-rooms leading off it, and the doors were open so that we 
 were allowed to see the actors " making up " for their various parts. 
 Here the similarity of features between men and women was an advantage 
 for all the female characters are personated by men, and with a little 
 rouge and a judicious use of paint, the deception is perfect. After a few 
 words with these people, we ascended a short ladder, and found ourselves 
 at the back of the stage, and in front of upwards of 1000 people. The 
 whole lower floor or pit was packed with Chinamen, all standing, while 
 the women and children were in the gallery. A place was made for us at 
 the right hand and alongside the orchestra, who never cease playing. The 
 
A Chinese Theatre. 109 
 
 music may appeal to the Chinese ear, but it seemed to us the most dreary 
 sound imaginable. There is no scenery, and the action took place mostly 
 on the left side of the stage. We were so large a crowd that we en- 
 croached very much on the sjjace allotted to the actors, who were obliged 
 to make their entrances and exits through our number, but this did not 
 seem to bother them, nor did our presence and conversation. The play 
 went on, and even the terrible fight where the villain stabbed the heroine 
 in the face, and her blood literally ran upon the stage (by some Chinese 
 trick), occurred within reach of our arm. The coquetry of the female 
 impersonators was quite worthy of the original type, and their airs and 
 graces were as natural as possible. What all the play was about we did not 
 know, but the Chinese audience were very much interested, and showed as 
 much excitement as a Chinaman ever allows himself. The women and 
 children were more moved, and smiled and sobbed according to circum- 
 stances. The actors' costumes were very elaborate, especially the dresses 
 of the female characters in a wedding scene. In case of a panic or a fire, 
 escape would have been impossible for most present, and realising this we 
 did not stop to see the conclusion, but slowly threaded the dark passage and 
 found ourselves in the alley-way. We then visited gambling houses, and 
 saw the most imperturbable countenances when luck ran against them ; 
 not even a wink from the loser of more than a week's wages on a single jack 
 pot, for they play American poker with as much grace and boldness as an 
 old Californian native. Nor did the winner show any signs of exultation. 
 The game went on in perfect silence, each man indicating the amount he 
 wished to bet by showing it, and no one uttering a sound. On our offering- 
 consolation to the loser with the remark, " Better luckee next time," he 
 replied without the slightest emotion, " Badee luckee, three weekee washee 
 gone hellee." 
 
 The last evening in San Francisco was marked by a delightful recep- 
 tion, where we were privileged to listen to a most interesting paper by a 
 lady whose mother was one of the early settlers in California. In this the 
 daughter described most graphically those exciting days when the gold 
 fever drew eager crowds from the east into the wild forests, where some 
 made a fortune in a day, and others lost money, health, and even life in a 
 hopeless unrewarded search. At the close of the evening each lady was 
 presented with a large bouquet of rare sweet peas of most beautiful and 
 unusual colours, which had been sent by a gentleman who had given much 
 of his time to their cultivation. 
 
no 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 Before starting on the Yosemite trip the tourist should most certainly 
 go to the office of the Stage Company, opposite the Palace Hotel, and meet 
 Mr. Samuel Miller, the agent for this company. He will not only form 
 the acquaintance of a most amiable and genial gentleman, but will get 
 valuable suggestions of his journey and be able to see views of the glories 
 to come. Half an hour spent there will be well employed ; the writer speaks 
 from personal experience. Having completed our arrangements, we started 
 the next afternoon to realise all the bright dreams of our boyhood, for to us 
 
 Fig. 75. San Francisco to the Yosemite. 
 
 Fig. 76. Plan of the Yosemite Valley. 
 
 the Yosemite had always been a vision of the future, something we had 
 fondly hoped might become a reality, and we may say at the outset that we 
 were not disappointed in any particular. As Ave left San Francisco by the 
 Oakland ferry-boat a sea-fog swept around the great headlands, and by the 
 gleam of the setting sun made the entrance in reality a " Golden Gate." 
 A map showing the location of the park in its relation to San Francisco is 
 given in Fig. 75, while the valley itself and the various trails to different 
 points of interest, appear in Fig. 76. 
 
Valley of the Yosemite. Ill 
 
 The next morning found us at Raymond, where we had to leave our 
 pleasant conductor, Mr. Cooke, for a season, and commit ourselves to the 
 guidance of the Yosemite Stage Company. But our trust in this company 
 was not misplaced ; they have systematised the transportation in a thorough 
 manner, and the journey, which of necessity is somewhat fatiguing, is made 
 as easy as possible. A large amount of money is spent annually upon the 
 roads, and the stages are roomy and comfortable. The drivers are careful 
 men and full of interesting stories, which they will unload on the slightest 
 provocation. The horses are most excellent ; they are strong and are well 
 cared for, and start with a run, showing they are not overworked. Relay 
 stations are placed at seven to eight miles apart, and it was stated that over 
 400 horses are employed in this service. So then the reader may imagine 
 the party after a good breakfast at Raymond, seated in their stage, and 
 ready for departure. 
 
 The writers approach this part of their narrative with great misgivings, 
 for a proper description of the glories of the Yosemite should be written by 
 a Ruskin and be illustrated by a Turner. Thus only would full justice be 
 done to the magnificence of the various spots we visited, and the pictures 
 that were presented to us. But as this is impossible, the reader must be 
 contented with the plain statement of facts, and let his imagination supple- 
 ment the accompanying illustrations. The distance to the Wawonah is 36 
 miles, and the time necessary is eleven hours, with one hour's stop for 
 lunch, and with relay stations every seven miles. The day was warm and 
 the dust was prevalent, so that occasionally at the relay stations we had to 
 be excavated, for we were gradually becoming like the remains found in 
 Pompeii. The road also was quite steep in places ; and our stage took 
 vertical angles of more or less inclination as we proceeded. There was no 
 special beauty in the rolling ground over which we were passing, except the 
 wild flowers. It is impossible to describe them, for they were of every 
 colour of the rainbow, and of an innumerable variety of shapes.^ The 
 bushes around us were white with perfumed bloom, and in the grass were a 
 thousand exquisite flowers, so tiny that they seem made for fairies. We 
 gathered quantities of them, and were constantly jumping from the coaches 
 for this purpose, but the lovely wild things faded almost as soon as they 
 were plucked, like the scented rushes of Alice's dream. We lunched at 
 Grant's, where we were separately dusted before we entered the house, and 
 after an excellent dinner and a short rest we proceeded on our journey. 
 Now we climbed steadily, and soon we were in the pines. All around us 
 
112 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 the great trunks rose into the air, the bark of some beautifully marked and 
 seamed, while high above our heads the feathery green waved against the 
 deep blue sky. Once, at a turn in the road, the mountains parted and we 
 looked through the clustering peaks far out on the plain below, which was 
 gleaming in the amber sunset light. Soon the sky was aflame with gold 
 and orange, and full of drifting pink clouds, and as we plunged deeper into 
 the mighty forest, still the bright glow shone beneath the trees. Then in 
 the space above us gleamed the stars, and the long shadows crept across the 
 ground, making the great trees even more awe-inspiring. 
 
 We reached the first night's station at Wawonah, and stopped at the 
 hotel. The Palace Hotel at San Francisco was cited as one of the worst 
 managed hotels in the writers' experience, but Wawonah is supreme in their 
 mind as surpassing it. And what is most aggravating is the fact that the 
 proprietors apparently mean to do what is right, but are utterly without any 
 system in their management. As there are three heads to the establish- 
 ment, it is utterly impossible to fix any responsibility. If you complain of 
 anything it is always the brother who is absent that is guilty, in accordance 
 with the French proverb, " The absent are always wrong." One of the 
 writers desiring rooms for his ladies, was told that one of the brothers had 
 actually slept in a bath tub the night before, and he ought to be glad with 
 any accommodation. He replied, there was no accounting for tastes, and if 
 the gentleman was a descendant of Diogenes that was his misfortune, and 
 added he had remarked that the brother was round-shouldered and was 
 glad to know the reason. It is best to keep your temper, however, for you 
 are absolutely in their hands, and as they control the majority of the stock 
 on the stage routes, there is no escape, you have got to go their way and 
 stop at their house. The food is good and the rooms clean and comfortable, 
 so all that is needed is one head, and that one belonging to a systematic 
 man. The situation of the hotel is very picturesque, and the studio of an 
 artist who lives opposite the house is one of the attractions of the place. 
 A visit to it is most restful, and the gentleman himself is one it is a 
 pleasure to meet. 
 
 One of the enjoyments of the hotel is, after your own party is located, 
 to sit on the piazzas and watch the struggles of the new arrivals, and if you 
 have kept your temper and succeeded in obtaining accommodation, it is 
 most amusing to see the outbreaks of others, knowing in advance they will 
 only fare worse for indulging in their natural inclination. 
 
 We left Wawonah at about seven the next day for a 26-mile ride to 
 
The Valley of the Yosemite. 
 
 113 
 
 Stoneman House, and were due there at 2 p.m. It was delightful to whirl 
 away in the fresh cool air and sparkling light of the early morning, through 
 the pines where the monster cones lay beside the road, where the brilliant 
 emerald moss clothed every dead limb, and the mistletoe hung in garlands 
 from the oaks. And still we climbed until we were beside the snowbanks, 
 and all left the coaches to plunge our hands in it, and gather the gorgeous 
 red snow flowers. Many of us walked long distances in the bracing air, 
 stopping to drink at the icy springs and the shallow brooks through which 
 the horses splashed. At noon we reached the cliff above the Yosemite, 
 and as we gazed down the wonderful valley, a silence fell on all of us. 
 
 Fig. 77. The Yosemite from Artist Point. 
 
 Such a view as this may not be described, and the reader is referred to 
 Fig. 77, which will convey a faint idea of it. 
 
 As we descended we heard the noise of the many cataracts, whose 
 echoes fill the valley with a never ceasing sound ; on every side they clashed 
 and sparkled over the cliffs, combing down in a dozen shining lines, or 
 leaping abruptly in a foaming stream. On one side the little Ribbon Fall 
 poured through its dark gorge in wavering foam, making one leap of 
 
 Q 
 
114 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 2000 ft., and another of about ]000 ft. more; on the other, the Bridal 
 Veil (see Fig. 78) darted like a thousand snowy arrows, falling 8G0 ft. at 
 one leap, while its cold breath blew on us as we passed, and just above it 
 swept the thin silver of the " Widow's Tears " (so called because it runs 
 dry every six months). Behind the pale front of El Capitan, which rises 
 to a height of 7012 ft., and is shown in Fig. 79, were masses of purple 
 
 Fig. 78. The Yosemite; Bridal Veil. 
 
 cloud, and the thunder echoed through the canon, lending its sound to that 
 of the rushing water, and seeming the fitting voice of the Great Spirit 
 whose abiding place is the steeps, and the mountains, and the mighty waters. 
 In the valley raced the Merced River, dimpling in the rain, which now 
 fell in big drops. The aromatic perfume of the woods rose in the dampness, 
 and the odour of the flowers grew more sweet. We heard the crash of 
 the Great Fall of the Yosemite, and saw its white waters plunge 2548 ft. 
 on the rocks beneath, shrouded in floating grey mists. We reached our 
 
TJie Yosemite; El Capitan. 
 
 115 
 
 destination, Stoneman's, exactly at two, for these stages leave and arrive 
 with the punctuality of trains, and we all agreed that we had already 
 been fully paid for the trouble of our journey. 
 
 Although one might be supposed to rest after this fatiguing journey, 
 yet such is the inspiration of the scene, that all bodily fatigue is forgotten, 
 and the visitor hurries forward to see any new glories he may have over- 
 
 Fig. 79. The Yosemite ; El Capitan. 
 
 looked. That same afternoon we went across the river, and walked about 
 three miles to the foot of the Yosemite Fall. On arriving, we climbed to 
 the foot of the upper fall, amid spray so thick as to be almost blinding, 
 and requiring the protection of a good waterproof overcoat. The scene 
 well repaid us, and all fatigue was lost sight of in the glorious sight before 
 us. Let the reader imagine himself on the rock in front of this fall, which 
 
116 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 is 34 ft. wide at the top and falls 1502 ft. at a leap. He may look down 
 on a series of cascades, which fall about 600 ft., and still lower may 
 see 400 ft. to the lower fall. Just preceding the time of our visit there 
 had been heavy rains, and every fall was seen at its best. June is the best 
 season to visit this place, although some prefer September. Our ex- 
 perience would lead us to select June, as in the later month the falls are 
 not nearly so large owing to the low water. 
 
 Fig. 80. Cathedral Spires, Yosemite Valley. 
 
 We rose at six the next morning, and after breakfast started through 
 the woods in an easy riding stage. We looked with ever -increasing wonder 
 and delight at the great canon around us — the twin Cathedral Spires shown 
 in Fig. 80, which attain a height of 5934 ft., and at the peak of Sentinel 
 Rock, 7065 ft. above the valley, shown in Fig. 81 ; near this is Sentinel 
 Fall, which is the highest in the valley, and although quite small has a leap 
 
The Valley of the Yosemite ; Mirror Lake. 
 
 117 
 
 of 3270 ft., which it takes with great calmness, and looks like a beautiful 
 silver thread upon the rocks at the base. The day was a perfect one, clear 
 sunshine after rain. 
 
 The pine needle glistening with moisture shone like satin in the pale 
 morning sunlight, but as we penetrated deeper into the woods we entered 
 the gloom of twilight where the sun had not yet come, and we reached 
 Mirror Lake (Fig. 82) in the morning light. Every cliff and every tree 
 
 Fig. 81. Sentinel Rock, Yosemite Valley. 
 
 was here reflected as in a glass. We saw the snow-capped peaks, and the 
 blue sky, which grew momentarily brighter, and still gazing in the mirror, 
 like Perseus in the shield of Minerva, we saw the gleaming disc of the sun 
 rise over the cliff, while in the woods the birds burst into song, as though 
 
118 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 heralding this scene of beauty. For an instant the lovely view lasted, even 
 one tiny white cloud glowing on the bosom of the lake, and then, as the 
 sun's rays shot out across the water, the picture on its surface vanished, 
 and it was but as a muddy pool. 
 
 After driving back a mile we met our guide and horses, and proceeded, 
 Indian file, up the narrow Nevada trail. Could anything be more beautiful? 
 Constantly opening vistas down the chasm and through the valley ; now we 
 
 Fig. 82. Mirror Lake, Yosemite Valley. 
 
 crossed a bridge with a torrent roaring beneath, now we stopped to water 
 our horses at a clear spring, or we skirted the edge of the cliff and looked 
 down its sheer sides to the river, as one man said, " with only a mule's hoof 
 between me and eternity." At length we came out on a clearing whence 
 we commanded a view of the entire valley. Beyond us the great Nevada 
 Fall, G17 ft. in height, whirls its gleaming rockets of foam as if out of the 
 blue sky ; half way down striking a mass of rock, it leaps high into the air 
 in showers of spray. Then the river roars on through the valley to the 
 Vernal Fall about a mile below, where it rolls over a precipice of 400 ft. 
 
The Valley of the Yosemite. H9 
 
 like a sheet of snow, the mist drifting far down the valley and covering the 
 rocks with bright green moss. Our animals were either mules or horses, 
 according to the weight of the rider ; the distance was not very great, being 
 only about 4^ miles each way, but the ascent was about 1400 ft. This does 
 not sound formidable, but it was condensed into a comparatively short 
 distance, so that it was frequently necessary to bend back in the saddle to 
 preserve a proper equilibrium. The gait for ascent and descent never 
 exceeded a good walk. The living here was excellent ; the horses and 
 mules were kind and surefooted, while the guides were nice careful men ; 
 and, lastly, the charges were quite reasonable, and no one objected to them. 
 Descending still lower, the clouds began to gather behind us as though 
 desirous of furnishing the explorers of their territory with a suitable escort 
 to the frontier; it grew darker and darker, until there was every indication 
 of a heavy rain. Occasional flashes of lightning could be seen, and the 
 rumble of the thunder reverberated from cliff to cliff as though caught up 
 and hurled from one mountain to another ; but nothing occurred beyond 
 this, and as soon as the level was reached the entire party started on a 
 good gallop and reached the hotel amid the pattering of the rain. "Surely," 
 the reader will say, " you now were in a condition to rest." Perhaps so, but 
 maybe the reader has never been in the Yosemite and felt the impulse, 
 constantly accelerating, to keep on and see all possible points of interest. A 
 friend of the writers' told them that he had been there a number of times, 
 and he had only one rule, which was to take everything in the shape of a 
 trip which the guides suggested, and as fast as it could be undertaken. We 
 followed this advice strictly, and were only stopped by darkness from 
 pursuing our excursions. 
 
 So we snatched a hasty dinner, and were soon seated in a comfortable 
 stage drawn by four active horses following the road along the beautiful 
 Merced Kiver to the end of the canon some nine miles distant. This 
 stream, clear as crystal, roars alongside the road, tossing foam and spray 
 high in the air, having in many places most beautiful rapids, and in others 
 cascades sometimes 8 ft. to 10 ft. high. When it is added that this route 
 runs past the foot of the Yosemite Falls on one side of the river, and 
 in front of El Capitan, past the Bridal Veil Falls on the return trip, 
 and that at the end of the canon a fine view of Cascade Falls is to be 
 had, the reader will understand what attracted the tourists. At a narrow 
 place, with the rocks on one side and the river on the other, we had the 
 excitement of meeting another large wagon which contained a very fussy old 
 
120 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 lady, who screamed like a fog-horn as our wheels locked theirs, and sprung 
 from the high front seat with a surprising agility considering her years. 
 She sheltered herself behind a tree, from which safe refuge she shrieked 
 a succession of undesired suggestions to the gentlemen, who finally 
 succeeded in disentangling us. Beautiful cataracts fell from the cliffs on 
 either side, and the Bridal Yeil was wreathed with a gleaming rainbow. 
 At the end of the valley is the Cascade Fall, which is different from all 
 the others, as the stream, severed at the summit, unites half way down 
 in clouds of foam. 
 
 Early the next morning we started on the trail to Glacier Point, 
 galloping down the valley on our swift little Indian ponies, and fording one 
 swollen stream so deep that we had to hold up our feet to escape the 
 water. Let no one miss this trip to Glacier Point if it is possible to 
 take it, for it is a sort of general summary of all the trips together. 
 The distance is about six miles, all but two being the ascent. It is not 
 more fatiguing than the trip to the Vernal and Nevada Falls, being 
 only a little longer and somewhat steeper. After pursuing the trail for 
 a time the rider emerges from the forest and has a most enchanting 
 view of the Yosemite Falls on the opposite side of the canon ; still 
 rising, he is finally on a level with the top of the lower fall, and then, 
 by gradual ascent, he reaches a point where the entire cascade con- 
 necting the upper and lower falls is visible : lastly, he has a view of the 
 entire fall from top to bottom, having risen to the level of the top of the 
 upper fall. But the ascent continues and the view widens in extent, till, 
 finally reaching the summit, and looking in one direction, a range of many 
 miles is taken into the scene, and the explorer has attained an elevation 
 of 7201 ft. 
 
 Turning in another direction, a different landscape is shown, even more 
 extensive and diversified. In this view are both the Vernal and Nevada 
 Falls, the latter of which is, in the writers' opinion, the finest fall in the 
 Yosemite Valley. In the background stretch the far-off ranges of 
 mountains, from 40 to 60 miles distant, while the vast gorge of the 
 canon is at your feet. The Stoneman House on the valley level is a 
 hencoop, and the people there look like ants. There is a small hotel 
 at the summit, kept by a most genial proprietor, and where a very excellent 
 meal can be obtained. At night this gentleman collects a pile of the 
 gigantic pine cones, and, after firing them and letting them burn, producing 
 a beautiful effect, he dumps them over the side of the cliff, their descent 
 
The Big Trees. 121 
 
 seeming very like a shower of brilliant stars. These fireworks are the 
 nightly enjoyment of the guests at the Stoneman House, and all have a 
 kindly feeling for the host of the Glacier Point Hotel. 
 
 At six on Wednesday morning we said good-bye to the Yosemite with 
 deep regret. As we slowly climbed the ascending road, view after view of 
 it opened before us. The sun was just rising, and while all the great peaks 
 in the west, the Half Dome, and the Sentinel Rock, were in purple shadow, 
 the white light shone on the pale, bald front of El Capitan. At noon we 
 reached Wawonah, and after lunch started for the big trees. The writer 
 can unhesitatingly recommend this drive as a sure cure for dyspepsia, and 
 the wild leaps of our coaches would have put an Irish jaunting car or a 
 Canadian caliche to shame. After we had been rattled like popping corn 
 for some distance, we wisely decided to rise in the trot, which we proceeded 
 to do by holding on the back of the seat and jumping at the jolt. 
 
 The trees were wonderful, immense, overpowering, their deep-red 
 colour and the corrugations of their bark greatly enhancing their beauty. 
 Towering to the height of nearly 300 ft., one-third of which is the elevation 
 of the first limb, they present a spectacle of the greatest impressiveness. 
 There are some 365 trees in the upper grove, but all are not of the largest 
 size. They are estimated to be from 1000 to 4000 years old, and flourish 
 in altitudes varying from 5000 ft. to 7000 fb. Their botanical name is 
 something difficult, " Sequoia gigantea ; " at all events it suits them well, 
 for the grove seems to thrive under it, and to hold up their heads with a 
 family pride. 
 
 After passing through this grove, the appetite of the traveller is 
 whetted for something greater, and it is not far away, for after bumping 
 and thumping for a few miles, he descends and measures the tree known as 
 the Grizzly Giant, and proceeds to verify the statement that it is 100 ft. in 
 circumference, and that the " Governor " is about 76 ft. But the greatest 
 curiosity is the " Wawona," through which the stage drives, the opening 
 being 27 ft. deep and 10 ft. square, as shown in Fig. 83, while the tree 
 flourishes green above one's head, maintaining as much apparent indifference 
 to this excavation as a man would make to a piece of skin knocked off his 
 knuckle. There are seven trees which range from 250 ft. to 272 ft. in 
 height, and ten from 220 ft. to 250 ft. 
 
 The absence of young trees is caused by the fact that it takes the cones 
 holding the seeds some four years to mature, and the chances against their 
 preservation from animals and storms are very small, so that it would seem 
 
122 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 to be only a question of time when this species becomes extinct. This 
 15-mile drive was concluded in time for supper, and the next day we started 
 for Raymond. The road lay through woods full of wild flowers, and was 
 cool and shady. At the summit of a hill we saw an old man with a long 
 white beard and long silvery hair making his morning ablution? in a tin 
 
 Fig. 83. The "Wawona" Sequoia Gigantea 
 
 wash-basin. He bowed gravely to us as we passed along, and we were told 
 that he was the hermit of the Yosemite, who has lived in a log cabin for 
 30 years or more. The mystery of this is unexplained, and while the old 
 man, who must be upwards of 80, is pleasant enough, yet nothing will 
 induce him to break away from this solitude. The driver informed us that 
 he had never seen a railroad, and that he had tried in vain to induce him to 
 take a seat in the stage, when a few hours woald put him in Raymond. 
 
The Benicia Train Ferry. 
 
 123 
 
 The ODly enjoyment he permitted himself was to occasionally go to a 
 settlement and sell his produce. Having done this, and procured a jug 
 of whisky, he would return to his cabin, and, in the driver's language, 
 " enjoy a high old lonesome." That night we were in Raymond in time for 
 supper, and, finding our familiar sleeping car and our own porter, we were 
 soon speeding for San Francisco. 
 
 Nothing of special note marked the trip from Raymond, unless it was 
 the transfer boat employed at the crossing of the bay near Benicia. The 
 
 Fig. 84. Youth and Age. 
 
 train was run upon the deck, and the whole transported across the straits. 
 The boat is 425 ft. long, and 84 ft. beam. There are four railroad tracks 
 upon its deck, each capable of holding 12 freight cars, or 48 in all, and 
 there are two compound condensing beam engines with cylinders 65 in. in 
 diameter, 1 1 ft. stroke. Each of these engines runs one paddle-wheel, these 
 wheels being at the side of the boat as usual, except that one is ahead of the 
 other sufficient to allow the cranks to pass, the cylinder of one engine being 
 forward of the shafts, while the other is aft. The wheels are 30 ft. diameter 
 and 17 ft. wide, each being handled independently by its engineer under 
 
124 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yelloiostone. 
 
 direction of the pilot, steering being done by this means as well as by the 
 steam steering gear. 
 
 It was full moon, and the crossing was a matter of great delight as a 
 scene of beauty. But there was no time for the party to delay at the 
 Golden Gate, charming as this was to us, for Alaska was to be visited, and 
 this seemed like a trip to the North Pole to our unsophisticated minds. 
 So the party simply got together their various impedimenta, and we were 
 soon in our own train and with our own conductor, speeding northward 
 along the boundary of the Pacific Ocean bound for Portland, via the Mount 
 Shasta route, which abounds in beautiful, picturesque, and sometimes 
 startling scenery. 
 
 The city of Portland is situated in a most picturesque location, lying 
 on both sides of the Willamette River, which is spanned by several line 
 bridges, and having Mount Hood for a magnificent background. That 
 Mount Hood is a very effective background no one can doubt for a moment, 
 and the fact that this city possesses it is a source of pride to the humblest 
 citizen. 
 
 This mountain is located in the Cascade Range, 25 miles south of the 
 Columbia River, and is 12,000 ft. high. It can be seen from most parts 
 of the State, and in fact any part of the State without a vieAV of Mount 
 Hood may be set down as of small importance. It is 60 miles from 
 Portland, but may be annexed in the immediate future and thus brought 
 nearer, for the Portlanders already consider it their peculiar property. 
 That it is lovely is at once to be seen, and it is no wonder they are proud of 
 it ; but just what they have done in its construction no one can say — this 
 must be left to the imagination ; but there is no doubt they did something. 
 They once tried to illuminate it, on one evening in 1885, which was, of 
 course a brilliant idea, but the mount evidently did not approve of the 
 performance, and sent down an avalanche about 4 p.m., setting off the 
 whole thing — fireworks, red-lights, &c. — by daylight. The day selected was 
 our great national holiday, July 4th, and the failure was a great disappoint- 
 ment to the Portlanders. But if Mount Hood thought the matter would 
 rest there, it knew little of its neighbours, nor of the spirit of Portland 
 people, for in 1887 they renewed the effort, choosing the same day in that 
 year. The party started at 5 p.m. on the 2nd of July to ascend the 
 mountain, in full hope of attaining the summit. After terrible hardships 
 they camped in the snow about 7000 ft. up, and the wind bleAv so that a 
 fire was impossible. Nearly frozen and much exhausted, they started again 
 
Portland. 125 
 
 on July 4th at 5 a.m. with 100 lb. of red fire. A location was fixed at 
 10,000 ft. elevation and two men left to illuminate. From this point they 
 had a view of 150 miles of their State in one direction, which of itself must 
 have been quite satisfactory. After being in grave doubt as to whether 
 their signal would be seen on account of the clouds and mist, they were 
 rejoiced to behold a red light in Portland, and at once set off their fire in 
 response. The whole city was in a great state of excitement, and so were 
 several neighbouring places. Everything Avas lighted up in all directions, 
 and the party, after great hardships, including a fall into a crevasse, at last 
 returned in safety. This sort of thing may do for once, and it is not 
 recorded that it was ever repeated. 
 
 The mountain also serves the people as a standard of comparison. 
 "Not so high as Mount Hood;" "Not so grand as Mount Hood;" 
 " Easier to climb than Mount Hood," &c. But the acme of these com- 
 parisons was reached by the " oldest inhabitant," who was dilating on the 
 length of time he had passed in Portland and the marvellous growth of the 
 country. "Why, gentlemen," said this elegant and eloquent Ananias, 
 " when I first came out here, Mount Hood was nothing but a hole in the 
 ground and now look at it ! " 
 
 Portland has nearly 100,000 inhabitants, and strikes the visitor 
 instantly as a place of unusual energy with a bright future before it. The 
 hotel where the party stopped is called the Portland, and is built on three 
 sides of a square, leaving a courtyard in the centre, and having the entrance 
 to it on the fourth side. It is a very well kept house, and everything 
 connected with it is first-class. One little precaution was suggestive : each 
 guest has a meal ticket bearing the number of his room, and is liable to be 
 asked for it at any meal. This prevents any dead-beating. Portland is 
 thoroughly supplied with electric railways, and has many fine business 
 streets. The one shown in Fig. 85 was selected rather because a 
 photograph of it was available than as the best street in the city, 
 although it is one of the best and contains many fine buildings — amono- 
 others a fine book -store, kept by Gill and Co., where the latest 
 literature of the day, both American and foreign, can be had. As a 
 mark of the enterprise of the West it may be noted that almost every 
 city of importance has a fine book-store, and it naturally follows they 
 will have fine schools. Portland's school buildings are among the finest in 
 the United States, and are quite numerous, while its public libraries are 
 buildings any place might be proud of, and are not exceeded in beauty by 
 
126 
 
 TJie Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yelloivstone. 
 
 more pretentious Eastern cities. Portland has also its Chinese quarter, 
 and in this is a Chinese restaurant. 
 
 One other race flourishes in Portland, and seems to thrive there as 
 everywhere, viz., the Jews, and their synagogue, shown in Fig. 86, bears 
 evidence to their numbers and wealth. The visitor should make a complete 
 tour of the city and note its beautiful buildings, for they are well worth the 
 visit, tie should take a drive to Whitehouse and see Riverview Cemetery, 
 and cross over to Milwaukee, Oregon, returning vid East Portland. 
 
 Fig. 85. Street in Portland. 
 
 Another very pleasant ride is to Vancouver, Oregon, to see the garrison. 
 A visit should also be made to Mount Tabor, to the City Park, and to 
 Portland Heights, while another very interesting trip is to the mouth of 
 the Columbia River and Astoria. 
 
 Many of these trips can be taken in the electric cars at small expense, 
 and the Astoria trip can be managed nicely by boat. 
 
 A visit to the Willamette Falls (accented on the second syllable) 
 shows one source of Portland's wealth. The picture (Fig. 87) gives a good 
 idea of their size and height ; moreover, the falls are always available, never 
 
Fig. 86. Synagogue, Portland. 
 
 Fig. 87. Willamette Falls, Columbia River, 
 
128 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 running dry in summer, nor freezing in winter. They are but 13 miles 
 from the city, and have over 50,000 horse-power as a minimum. The 
 people are preparing to transmit this power by means of electrical appliances 
 and make it available in the city, but already large mills have been built 
 around the falls and are in successful operation. The records of the 
 Clearing House of Portland for 1891, show 102,570,167.36 dols. for that 
 year, and it was stated that Portland has more than one citizen whose 
 
 Fig. 88. Oneonta Gorge, Columbia River. 
 
 assets are over 16,000,000 dols. We did not, however, have the pleasure 
 of meeting him or them. 
 
 The final trip, which no one should neglect, is to the Dalles of the 
 Columbia. This is accomplished by rail, starting in the afternoon, 
 and returning by boat the next day. One requires patience, however, for 
 the boat is quite deliberate, and stops at any point where it is hailed from 
 shore. The distance is but 88 miles, and the exertion is well repaid by the 
 
 trip. 
 
 The railroad passes in full view of the lovely Gorge of Oneonta, shown 
 in Fig. 88, and directly in front of the Multnomah Falls (Fig. 89), which 
 
Fig. 89. Multnomah Falls, Columbia River. 
 
 Fig. 90. The Pillaks, Columbia Bjvek. 
 
130 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 drop in two leaps over 800 ft. The train stops almost in the spray at the 
 foot, and the passengers have an opportunity to descend and go to the 
 bridge shown in the picture. The road also passes through the Pillars of 
 Hercules (Fig. 90), and through many other places of great beauty and 
 grandeur. On arriving at Dalles City, which is one of the older settle- 
 ments on this river, a visit is made to the Dalles (Fig. 91) — a distance of 
 but five miles. Here the river runs for 1^ miles through a narrow gorge 
 about 300 ft. to 400 ft. wide, narrowing in one place to 60 ft. The rock 
 is basalt, and the scene is wild and romantic, as though nature had made a 
 tremendous effort to stop the course of this mighty river, which the river 
 resented by breaking through at these points, showing how impossible it 
 
 Fig. 91. The Dalles of the Columbia River. 
 
 was to restrain the desire for its natural rest in the calm Pacific. The best 
 plan for the tourist is to go from Portland, as staled, in the afternoon, and 
 take a state-room in the boat on arriving at Dalles City, so that he may 
 rise in the morning at such hour as is convenient, since the boat leaves 
 quite early. 
 
 The river runs for miles between rocky banks, which in some cases are 
 precipitous, rising to the height of several hundred feet, but at the 
 entrances to Hood River on tbe north, and White Salmon River on the 
 south, pleasant valleys are seen in the distance. The foimer river, as its 
 name implies, is the result of the melting snows fiom the mountain which 
 forms a feature in the landscape at many points in this trip. But Mount 
 Hood is not the only mountain lending beauty to the view. Mount Adams 
 comes in occasionally as an assistant, sometimes with most delightful eflect. 
 The shore changes in the descent of the river, which is quite rapid, and the 
 
The Columbia River. 
 
 131 
 
 banks are very densely wooded in spots, while in others only bare rock is 
 visible — in fact, the Columbia in many places reminds one of the Hudson 
 River, not alone in size but in scenery. At the upper cascades is a 
 reminiscence of the early settlers, namely, the block house shown in Fig. 92 
 built some 40 years ago to protect the settlers from the Indians, and 
 garrisoned by Lieutenant Sheridan, afterwards the famous Phil Sheridan. 
 At this point the travellers are carried by a narrow-gauge railroad for 
 six miles to the lower cascades — for the river is not navigable owing to the 
 rapids — and re-embarked for the trip down on another steamer. The 
 Government is engaged in building a canal around these cascades, and each 
 inhabitant has a different opinion of its value, as well as its cost to the 
 
 Fig. 92. Old Block House, Columbia River. 
 
 present time, for it has been under construction for some years. The best 
 average result the writer could obtain from a conservative Oregonian fixed 
 the sum expended at 4,000,000 dols., although one man, who vowed it 
 would be of no use, set this as high as 9,000,000 dols. After passing 
 various scenes of great beauty, the traveller's attention is drawn to a 
 strange object, which is known as a " fish-wheel." These unsightly objects 
 are moved from point to point, and are usually anchored for a time at 
 some cascade. The wheel dips into the stream when in action, perhaps to 
 a depth of one half its spokes. The current affects it as it would an 
 undershot waterwheel, and any salmon once in it is gone; there is absolutely 
 no escape ; he is slowly hoisted out of water by this engine of destruction, 
 and on its downward revolution he is shot into a trough and deposited in 
 the bottom of the scow with a deliberation and certainty that seem almost 
 fiendish, the slowness of the movement serving to render the action all 
 
132 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 the more cruel. Then, disregarding the poor captured fish, the wheel 
 slowly plunges into the water for a new victim, which it rarely fails to find. 
 From time to time the fish are collected, strung on a wire, and fastened to 
 a small buoy and started down the stream with a tag attached, to show 
 what wheel has shipped them. Each cannery has a small steam launch 
 manned by eagle-eyed men, who proceed, on sighting a buoy, to capture it. 
 The fish are taken to the cannery, and the wheel is credited with the catch. 
 It is quite an interesting sight to see these launches darting out in pursuit 
 of the buoys. On reaching the cannery the fish are taken in hand by the 
 Indians, who proceed to clean them, when they are thrown into boiling- 
 water, and after passing under the chopper are put into cans which have a 
 vent-hole in the top. These cans are put into a steamer and thoroughly 
 cooked, the temperature being regulated by a thermometer. After this 
 the vent-hole is carefully sealed, and the can is varnished and labelled for 
 the market. The whole process is a very cleanly one, great care being 
 taken to prevent any solder entering the can, and the washings of the fish 
 being frequent. The cannery visited by us was called the Warrendale, and 
 is one of the best on the river. No wonder there is such a demand all over 
 the world for Columbia River salmon. 
 
 The captain of our steamer secured some fish that were alive, and had 
 them sent at once to the kitchen. When they came on the table they were 
 the most appetising things imaginable. The reader may judge of this when 
 he is told that one lady of our party, and quite a delicate one, ate three 
 salmon steaks, and others confessed to five ; these only stopped on account 
 of the look of the thing, and claimed that if they had been alone they would 
 have doubled the record. Ordinarily, in New York City, one of the steaks 
 is deemed sufficient for three people. 
 
 After leaving the cannery we passed along the river, which abounded in 
 curious formations, such as Cape Horn, shown in Fig. 93. The reader may 
 be able to trace some similarity between the name and the rock, but if he 
 does he will do more than our party could. The captain of the boat proved 
 to be a most genial man, and invited the party into the " Texas," as the 
 wheelhouse is called, and from it they had a magnificent view of Latourelle 
 Falls. The railroad follows the river all the way, and in some places the 
 road-bed is obtained by blasting the side of the cliff. In doing this it was 
 the practice to lower the men in slings so that they could drill the face of 
 the rock. 
 
 The people seem to regard the steamboats as their natural servants, and 
 
TJie Willamette River. 
 
 133 
 
 in one case we were amused to see the boat put into a shelving bank where 
 a number of sacks of potatoes had been left, apparently in a reckless 
 manner, and the men proceeded to load them on the deck ; for the owner, 
 finding the access rather difficult for his teams, had left them at the most 
 convenient point, and the " roustabouts," as the deck hands were called, had 
 to pack them on board by hoisting the sacks on their shoulders. The 
 captain on this occasion exercised a most marvellous self-control, for he had 
 ladies in the " Texas," but he afterwards told the writer that he would 
 
 Fig. 93. Cape Horn, Columbia Kiver. 
 
 willingly have laid down a 5-dol. bill if he could have expressed his feelings. 
 One leaves the Columbia River with great regret, but the Willamette is 
 also beautiful, and the short sail from its point of entrance into the 
 Columbia to Portland was thoroughly enjoyed by all ; the day was marked 
 with a red letter in our calendar. The Indians in this section talk what is 
 known as-'" Chinook," which seems to be something like Volapuk, being a 
 composite of English, French, and any other convenient tongue. If you 
 desired to state that the cashier of the Chinook Banking Company, Limited, 
 had followed his more enlightened types and fled to Canada, you would not 
 
134 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 say he had absconded, but he had " kiip-swal-la kbit a wa," the advantage 
 being that by the time one has pronounced these words, the absconder is 
 safe in Her Majesty's Province. No wonder the Supreme Court of the 
 Chinooks is blocked in its endeavours to mete out justice when they must, in 
 obtaining a jury, tell the sheriff to draw a " men tik-eh kunt-tux kon-a-way 
 me sab. che, pe mam-ook kl6she kopa-til a kum." A lawyer there would 
 take longer to sum up than any shining legal light of the New York Bar if 
 he had to frequently say, as is common, " Gentlemen of the jury." Is it 
 anything strange if this people hold the marriage relation lightty when a 
 husband is known as " Ikt man kw6ne sum mit-lite ko-pa-ikt klooch man," 
 and the wife as " Klooch- man mitlite kopa ikt man"? Surely Welsh 
 must be a kindred tongue. One's imagination pales at the thought of 
 swearing in Chinook. It must surely be something to loosen the plaster on 
 an ordinary wall. 
 
 With no ordinary subject for reflection, and one which might readily 
 produce a first-class nightmare if we thought in Chinook, we retired to our 
 hotel, and the next morning were speeding towards Tacoma and Seattle, 
 from which latter place we were to embark for the trip to Alaska. But 
 before entering upon this Alaska journey we were to spend several days at 
 these cities in the order named, and to enjoy to its fullest extent that 
 abundant and cordial hospitality which every Eastern man of the right sort 
 experiences at the hands of his Western brother. The distance is but 145 
 miles, and the trip proved a most delightful one, our route lying through 
 some of the most beautiful and fertile valleys imaginable. Thirty miles 
 from Portland the train is run upon a deck ferryboat and transferred across 
 the Columbia River, which is very swift at this point, to Kalama, and the 
 traveller passes from the great State of Oregon to the State of Washington, 
 a State only lately formed from a Territory, but inhabited by people whose 
 energy and keenness are unequalled by any encountered in our travels. 
 
 By some mysterious means they were fully informed of our coming, 
 and had out their committees to meet us — business men of standing, jolly, 
 cordial, and hospitable to any extent. They meant we should have a most 
 delightful opinion of Tacoma, and it is hardly necessary to say their wish 
 was fulfilled. On the evening of our arrival we were entertained at the 
 Commercial Club, and the next morning were taken to see the city. As a 
 tribute to the enterprise of our country, this city and Seattle are probably 
 super-eminent. One must be extremely careful to name them together and 
 in proper order, for the jealousy between these queen cities of Puget Sound 
 
Tacoma. 
 
 135 
 
 is carried to an almost ridiculous extreme. The writers therefore visited 
 Tacoma and Seattle on the way to Alaska, and Seattle and Tacoma on the 
 return. So at present, being on the way up, we will take Tacoma first. In 
 1880 there were 1098 inhabitants here, and in 1890, 35,858. At the time 
 of our visit there were more people there — just how many more the writers 
 cannot say, nor would if they knew ; for the respective census of these 
 cities is one of the tender points at issue between them. Tacoma, as 
 appears from a glance at the map already given, lies on Puget Sound, at the 
 head of this great body of water. It is located on a high bluff, and was at 
 one time the terminus of the North Pacific Eailway. A very good general 
 view of the city is given in Fig. 94. If, however, the reader thinks this to 
 
 Fig, 94. The Town of Tacoma. 
 
 be a mushroom town, he is very much mistaken. It is full of life, and has 
 come to stay. The main street, Pacific-avenue, abounds in fine buildings, 
 and many more are under construction. A glance at Fig. 95 will show the 
 character of these structures, which will compare favourably with any in 
 the larger cities. In one year the buildings erected, reached a value of 
 5,901,000 dols. The electric roads run in every direction, and the traffic on 
 them is enormous. Like all growing towns in the United States, the 
 benefit of popular education is fully recognised, and Tacoma has several fine 
 school buildings. The Opera House is also a beautiful structure, hand- 
 somely decorated, and has the accessory of elegant scenery together with a 
 fine stage and ample auditorium. Being on the Sound, and having exten- 
 sive water facilities, the shipping interests are naturally prominent, and 
 many vessels are collected at the wharves, not only coasters, but steamers 
 
136 
 
 T/c Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yettou 
 
 sailing to China and Japan. Naturally these various craft require good 
 dry docks, and there is a full supply of this accommodation. 
 
 The waters of the Sound are full of fish, and this industry is in a very 
 flourishing condition. The amount taken at one haul brings to mind some 
 of the fish stories of the Bible, and in evidence Fig. 96 is offered to the 
 
 Fig. 95. Pacific Avenue, Taooma, 
 
 Fig. 96. Fishing ix Pcget Socxd. 
 
 reader. Tacoma can also boast of a church which, though of comparatively 
 modern construction, has the oldest tower in the United States, for it is a 
 tree which, at a moderate computation, started at least 400 years ago. 
 
 Early on the morning after our arrival, our hosts, who had reluctantly 
 taken leave of us at a late hour the night previous, mustered in force, and 
 took us to the Northern Pacific shops, located about five miles from the 
 
Tacoma. 
 
 137 
 
 city, and which had just heen completed. There had been great strife 
 among the various places for the location of these shops, but Tacoma won, 
 and the result is a st-ries of shops that any railroad might be proud of, con- 
 taining the latest and most improved forms of machinery. The exterior is 
 shown in Fig. 97. At the time of our visit these shops were running, and 
 turning out tine work. They cost 1,000,000 dols., and pay 40.000 dols. in 
 monthly wages. Among other institutions Tacoma has 19 banks, which 
 seem to be thriving. Returning from this trip, the party were taken to the 
 permanent Exposition Building and shown some of the resources of the 
 State, which were a great surprise, for they appeared to include about all 
 the useful minerals known, and fruit of a character and size that were 
 
 Fig. 97. Northern Pacific Railway Shops. Tacoma. 
 
 simply astonishing. We next went to a smelter which had an output of 
 S55.000 dols. in 1S91, and paid 75,000 dols. in wages. The people of 
 Tacoma, with wise forethought, were laying out a park in a location over- 
 looking the Sound. It contains 700 acres, and was in that stage of 
 development where they were pulling up stumps and making drives. With 
 the usual energy of the people, one visiting it three months after us- 
 might expect to find completed roads, fountains, and statuary. The outlook 
 from this park will be a most delightful one, for the Aisitor can gaze for 
 miles along the Sound from the point of the bluff on which it is located. 
 
 Like Portland, Tacoma has its mountain, and a fine one it is, rising 
 14,400 ft. into the clear sky, its top crowned with eternal snow. A view of 
 the summit of this mountain, from a photograph taken above the clouds, is 
 
 T 
 
138 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 given in Fig. 98. There is, however, one drawback to the pride which the 
 people of Tacoma feel in the possession of this great natural advantage, and 
 that is that it is also claimed by their rivals in Seattle, since it is located at 
 nearly the same distance from each city. Their onry satisfaction is that 
 
 Fio. 9S. Mount Tacoma; 
 
 Fig. 99. Hop Field, Washington. 
 
 they call it Mount Tacoma, while the Seattle people scorn this title, and 
 call it Mount Eanier. Woe betide the stranger who forgets the distinction 
 and fails to give it the proper name in each city ! There have been cases of 
 mysterious disappearance which are attributed to this blunder ; and so, after 
 speaking with great pride of Mount Tacoma, we bade fare-well to our genial 
 
Tacoma. 139 
 
 hosts and started for the neighbouring city, where we spoke with equal 
 delight of Mount Ranier. Our journey was most delightful, and the road 
 ran through a lovely valley filled with growing towns, while on either side 
 of the track we were pleased with the sight of great hop-fields, one of 
 which is to be seen in Fig. 99. A good description of this industry is 
 given in the paper issued at Tacoma, and it is here given in full : 
 
 The profits realised from the careful cultivation of hops in the State of Washington are 
 large. The average yield of hops in New York and in the hop districts of England and Ger- 
 many is not more than 650 lb. to the acre, while the average of Washington hops is 1600 lb. 
 to the acre. I have harvested 168 tons off 170 acres, and in several instances coming within 
 my own personal knowledge, over 4000 lb. per acre have been harvested. The cost of pro- 
 ducing hops in New York is not less than 15 cents per pound, and in England an average of 
 at least 18 cents per pound is reached. In the State of Washington the average cost is less 
 than 10 cents per pound, so that Washington hop-farmers frequently sell at a profit, while 
 others, producing at a higher cost, are selling at a loss. For five years, from 1886 to 1890 
 inclusive, I have kept accurate account of the production of one farm of 61 acres which I 
 have in hops. During this time there were grown and marketed 574,602 lb. of hops, which 
 sold at an average of 17 3.5 cents per pound, aggregating 101,129.95 dols. The cost of pro- 
 duction was 9 cents per pound, or 51,714.18 dols. The net profit, therefore, from the 61 acres 
 for five years was 49,415.77 dols., an annual average of 9.883.15 dols., and a yearly net profit 
 -per acre of 162.02 dols. 
 
 Concerning the crop of 1891 I would best repeat what I said in a bulletin to the trade 
 issued September 24: "We selected and picked separately the yield off 816 hills of hops 
 growing on a compact lot of ground of the Puyallup Hop Company's yard at Kent, and 
 obtained 214 boxes of hops, which weighed 24 lb. of cured hops per box. The hills of hops 
 are 7 ft. apart, with but two vines to the pole, and one pole to the hill. It takes 889 hills to 
 make an acre. At the rate this compact block of land, consisting of 816 hills, yielded, an acre 
 would yield 5592 lb. of dry hops. Knowing that yield was enormous, and that this statement 
 might be questioned, I have taken special pains to prevent any mistake. One man was 
 detailed to keep the account as the hops were picked, reporting meanwhile to Mr. Arthur 
 Titus, of Kent, who was the field superintendent, and who makes affidavit as to the correctness 
 of the count of boxes. I can myself certify as to the area of the land. No extra care of 
 these hops was taken, nor was there any fertilising material used. This is the greatest yield 
 on record, and entitles Washington to be known as the banner hop district of the world, and 
 the Puyallup Hop Company as having produced the largest yield on record for a single acre, 
 and a further record of having just harvested 126 tons off 125 acres." 
 
 About 35 miles of ride brought us to Seattle, which, like Tacoma, is on 
 Puget Sound, and, like it also, has grown in a most marvellous manner. In 
 1859 the place appeared as shown in Fig. 100, but in 1880 it had 4533 
 people, and in 1890 the census was 43,914. In 1892 it had more, but on 
 this point the writers will again preserve a marked silence as to numbers, as 
 they do not wish to offend either city, since the hospitality of both was so 
 lavish and so enjoyable. Seattle is also located on a bluff, and by this it is 
 not to be understood that it means anything more than the natural location. 
 
140 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 On our arrival we gladly sought an hotel for a rest previous to our journey 
 to the far north ; but this was not to be, as we speedily found out, for 
 Seattle had a reception committee to look after strangers, and they were 
 just as bright, and just as kind, and just as cordial as those we had recently 
 left in Tacoma. They were proud of their city, and wanted us to see it and 
 join in this pride ; so we started to look at the buildings and their system of 
 cable and electric railways. The city was destroyed by fire in 1889, and the 
 newer and finer city has risen phoenix-like from the ashes. 
 
 Fig. 100. Seattle in 1859. 
 
 The name is taken from an old Indian chief, and had it been possible 
 for our enterprising committee to have performed the miracle of the witch 
 of Endor, no doubt we should have seen him ; but, failing in this, they 
 proceeded to show us his daughter, a woman of great age as well as of large 
 girth. Starting then from Hotel Eanier, which stands on the summit of a 
 high hill and commands a most beautiful view of the Sound, we descended 
 five terraces before reaching the water front, each terrace being occupied by 
 a fine broad street filled with imposing buildings. 
 
 That the reader may fully understand that these buildings will bear 
 comparison with those of any city in the world, he is invited to inspect 
 Figs. 101, 102, and 103. The Pioneer Building, in Fig. 101, stands on the 
 site of the little wooden building shown in Fig. 100. The interiors are quite 
 in keeping with the elegance of the exterior. Many are wainscoted in 
 
Fig. 101. Pioneer Building, Seattle. 
 
 Tig. 102. New Yokk Block, Seattle. 
 
142 
 
 TJie Yosernite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 coloured marble, and all have quick elevators. The County Court House 
 stands on a summit not far from the Ranier, and forms an imposing feature 
 in the landscape. A view of it is given in Fig, 103. The year after the fire 
 no less than 13,547,000 dols. were expended in buildings and public 
 improvements; the jobbing business for that year was 31,000,000 dols. 
 and the output of the manufactories 11,000,000 dols. 
 
 A short distance (about three miles) from the city is a beautiful lake, 
 some 18 miles long, known as Lake Washington. This is one of the 
 summer resorts of Seattle, and having chartered a steamer as soon as our 
 
 Fig. 103. Court House, Seattle. 
 
 arrival was noted, our kind entertainers took us for a trip on the lovely 
 sheet of water, which lies like an immense mirror at the foot of the 
 surrounding hills. We sailed among the islands, landing at one, and finished 
 the day by a dinner prepared at a lakeside house and served on the 
 balcony. 
 
 It was at Lake Washington these citizens endeavoured to have the 
 United States Government establish a navy yard, so that the vessels, 
 although within easy reach of the ocean, should still be floating in fresh 
 water. An outlet was planned into Puget Sound, and will, no doubt, soon 
 be constructed ; for the size of an enterprise never daunts our Western 
 inhabitants. A public park is being laid out— indeed, is already laid out to 
 
Fig. 104. Loggixg Camp Seattle. 
 
144 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 a considerable extent — along the shores in lovely groves, and on Sundays 
 5,000 to 10,000 people assemble there, being brought by various lines of 
 street railways. These roads run through woods and among stumps in the 
 trip, for the country is still wild. It was stated that a bear and a mountain 
 lion were seen on the track the day before our arrival. 
 
 The United States Government, however, did not take kindly to the 
 Lake Washington site, and selected one at Point Orchard, some 16 miles 
 from Seattle. Probably the pressure from this city and Tacoma was such 
 as to lead to a middle course ; at all events, the Government has located 
 there and commenced construction. It has great possibilities, and is a well- 
 chosen site. We were taken there by one of our hosts in his beautiful 
 steam launch, built by Herreshoff; this boat can readily make from 16 to 20 
 miles per hour, and the trip was thoroughly enjoyed. 
 
 Naturally timber cutting is one of the great industries of this section of 
 the country, and a logging camp may be appropriately referred to here, as 
 the largest saw mill in the country is opposite the city of Seattle. Fig. 104 
 shows several views, especially the manner in which the logs are delivered 
 down the shute, into the water, striking which produces the effect seen in 
 the lower right hand corner of the illustration. 
 
 The canal necessary to connect Lake Washington with Puget Sound 
 would not be a difficult matter either financially or from an engineering 
 standpoint, and its construction would put the mills and factories already 
 on the lake shore in easy communication with the ocean. It would, more- 
 over, stimulate the construction of new industries. The advantage of fresh 
 water is a great one, especially when it is considered that the teredo navalis 
 infests these waters, and will destroy a pile in two to three years. 
 
 But there is another and far more important canal, about whose con- 
 struction Seattle and Tacoma will surely agree, and in advocating it they 
 will have the support of all the cities on the Pacific Coast, as well as many 
 on our Atlantic side, and that is one across the Isthmus. Every American 
 who cares for his country should advocate this on all occasions. Its value 
 to the nation is inestimable, nor should any political considerations be 
 allowed to hinder its construction. It is as important to the United States 
 as its navy, and it cannot be made any too soon. We had a hint of its 
 usefulness in the threatened Chilian trouble ; but, laying aside any warlike 
 aspect, and viewing it for purely commercial purposes, it would put the 
 entire eastern coast of our country into quick communication with the 
 western coast of South America, and secure to us the greater part of the 
 
Everett. 
 
 145 
 
 trade with the nations there ; while for our domestic trade between the 
 eastern and western coasts of the United States it is even of greater im- 
 portance. To the visitor on the Pacific side of this great country this 
 view is constantly presenting itself, and if our trip had stopped here the 
 benefit to us as American citizens in obtaining this knowledge alone cannot 
 be under-estimated. 
 
 The reader must not suppose that there are no other cities on Puget 
 Sound but Tacoma and Seattle. There are none approaching them in size, 
 
 Fig. 105. Whaleback Steamer, Everetc. 
 
 but 30 miles north of Seattle, at the mouth of the Suohorinsh River, is 
 located the city of Everett, in age just one year ; but, in energy and latent 
 force, a young giant. Steel whale barges are a new industry, but Everett 
 is building them, and a sample is seen in Fig. 105, although the shops are 
 not yet conijoleted. Everett has also the Puget Sound Wire Nail and Steel 
 Company, which intends to supply China and Japan with articles of this 
 character. A large paper mill has recently been added to the industrial 
 works of this place, and it occupies no less than 28 acres. One of the 
 
 u 
 
146 
 
 Tlie Tosemite, Alaska, and the Yelloivstone. 
 
 paper machines is 106 in. wide, and one is 90 in. ; both were made by- 
 members of the American Society of Mechanical Engineers. Cottonwood, 
 which is largely emploj'ed, is very abundant here, and is peculiarly 
 fitted for making the pulp, since it requires, on account of its colour, less 
 bleaching, and the pulp is therefore in better condition than that requiring 
 the use of large quantities of acid. 
 
 The clay in this section makes admirable bricks, and the Everett people 
 have been quick to recognise this ; their brickyard is still in the forest, so 
 rapid is the course of events in this locality. Just now there is only time 
 to make a clearing and begin work. There will be time later to fix up 
 
 Fig. 106. Hewitt Avenue, Everett, Washington. 
 
 things. That is their idea in everything. As another evidence of this, a 
 view of Hewitt-avenue is shown in Fig. 106, taken six months after the trees 
 had been burned off, and four months after the first lot was sold. As a 
 summary of this wonderful place it may be said it has now, or had a 
 few months ago (which is quite a different thing), five banks, a hotel of 
 good size, and one under construction to cost 40,000 dols., several churches, 
 and 30,000 dols. voted for school purposes. The population is about 3000, 
 and when our arrival was chronicled a committee waited on us, coming first 
 and last nearly 100 miles to find us (for they went to Tacoma when we 
 were at Seattle), to persuade us to visit Everett and be received there. 
 The good-natured president of the Everett Realty Company proved to be 
 a personal friend of the writers, and at his hands we received many 
 
Preparing for Alaska. 147 
 
 courtesies; under his able control this town is "booming" in a most 
 remarkable manner, which will yet cause some of its neighbours to look to 
 their laurels. But, pleasant as all this was, and opening an experience 
 quite new to all, there lay beyond us the " Land of the Midnight Sun," the 
 last piece of territory added to the domains of the stars and stripes. Alaska 
 was to be visited, and that to the writers' minds was the crowning glory of 
 this delightful journey, so we lay down to rest in the Hotel Eanier full of 
 pleasant thoughts of the trip yet to be taken, only wakening in the early 
 morning to look from our front window down on the bay, and to recognise 
 at the wharf the steamer Queen, which was destined to be our home for the 
 next thirteen days. 
 
 The reader must understand that the trip of 2600 miles that lay before 
 us is almost entirely accomplished by a route between the islands and the 
 mainland, the former serving as a barrier to the ocean waves. And if, 
 further, the reader refers to a map, he may think, by journeying to Sitka, 
 he will see a great deal of Alaska, yet he will have only reached the extreme 
 easterly end of these possessions, for this country extends 2000 miles west 
 of this place, and comprises a territory equalling one-sixth of the entire 
 United States, or one-seventh of all Europe, or 580,000 square miles, to 
 put its extent into figures. The general coast line is 4750 miles in length, 
 and taking into account the islands and bays, Alaska has 26,376 miles of 
 shore. The furthermost island of the Aleutian Chain is as far west of San 
 Francisco as Bangor, Maine, is east of it. In fact, San Francisco is now 
 the geographical centre of the United States. The most northerly point of 
 Alaska is as far from the most southerly, as Maine is from Florida, and the 
 width of this territory is as great as from Washington D.C., to California. 
 Mount St. Elias is the highest mountain on the North American Continent, 
 being 19,500 ft. above the sea level. The great river, the Yukon, computed 
 to be not less than 3000 miles long, is navigable for a distance of 2000 miles, 
 and is from one to five miles in width for 1000 miles, while its five mouths 
 and the intervening deltas have a breadth of 70 miles. The glaciers 
 surrounding Mount St. Elias are estimated to be 20,000 square miles 
 in extent. 
 
 One of the most popular errors extant about Alaska has reference to 
 its climate. The winters of northern and interior Alaska are undoubtedly 
 very severe ; but the coast south of the Aleutian Islands— the whole of 
 Southern Alaska, in fact— being under the influence of the Kurisiwo, or 
 Black Current of Japan, possesses in reality a mild climate. A record 
 
148 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 of 8 deg. below zero is the lowest that has been registered at Sitka in 
 50 years, and only four times during that entire period did the mercury 
 descend below the zero point. Fort Wrangel, although farther south 
 than Sitka, is warmer in summer and colder in winter, because it is 
 farther removed from the great equaliser — the ocean current. The Queen 
 Charlotte Islands, on the other hand, have a very mild climate. 
 
 The native population of Alaska, with the exception of a single tribe — 
 the Tinnehs, found in the interior — estimated by the census reports of 1880 
 at something over 31,000 altogether, is not of Indian origin. "Whether 
 Mongolian, Aztec, or both, remains to be proven. Persons who have 
 devoted attention to the subject have found much in the language, customs, 
 and arts of the Haidas, the most remarkable of these tribes, to support the 
 Aztec theory, while there is also much to suggest Japanese or Chinese 
 origin. According to the census reports, there are five distinct tribes, viz, : 
 the Innuit, or Esquimaux ; the Aleuts, inhabiting the Aleutian Islands ; 
 the Tinnehs ; the Thlinkets, of Southern Alaska ; and the Haidas. Those 
 mostly seen by the tourists are Thlinkets, but at Wrangel there are likely 
 to be some Haidas. 
 
 After this instructive lesson in geography we may now take up the 
 thread of our story and chronicle the trip to Alaska. We left Seattle at 
 nine o'clock on Monday, June 6, on the attractive steamer Queen. It was 
 a bright and pleasant day, but before we had sailed an hour we were glad 
 to don all our winter clothes. We stopped for a short time at Port 
 Townsend, and again at Anacortes, where we went ashore and walked along 
 the main street until the pavement terminated abruptly in the original mud. 
 Anacortes has been a town that was " boomed " to death, and has a 
 hotel worthy of a city of 15,000 people instead of a few hundred. As the 
 afternoon waned we ascended to the hurricane deck, whence we could see in 
 all directions. About us were the green islands, and beyond them the grey 
 of the mountains. The water was like a blue mirror, and across it widened 
 the silver path of the steamer ; white clouds swept over the fair heavens, 
 and in the west, among purple masses, the sun was setting in an amber sky, 
 surrounded by tiny fiery clouds, and tinging those above with orange and 
 with crimson light. 
 
 At seven o'clock the steamer reached Victoria, and we were at once 
 made aware of the sovereignty of Her Majesty by the contemptuous 
 rejection of our money and the demand of 20 per cent, for exchanging it. 
 Our object of search here was an ice-cream soda fountain, for one of the 
 
Victoria. 14 9 
 
 ladies had a weakness for this beverage ; this we were unable to find, and, 
 after passing through a number of the main streets of the town, we were 
 obliged to offer her the plebeian peanut as a substitute. There are some 
 blocks of fine buildings in Victoria, and we saw also beautiful dwelling- 
 houses surrounded by well-kept lawns. On our return to the steamer we 
 sat for some time on the hurricane deck enjoying the moonlight, and 
 congratulating ourselves on the fact that our many calculations were correct 
 and that we should have the moon during our trip. Vain rejoicing ! We 
 had utterly forgotten in what direction lay our pathway, and that we were 
 to visit the regions where Apollo reigned supreme, the "Land of the 
 Midnight Sun." We left Victoria at six the next morning, and at breakfast 
 time we were steaming along through a dense and chilly fog, while the sea, 
 winking in the rain as if with Argus eyes, was as level as a floor. The 
 morning was passed pleasantly with reading and games, and when we 
 emerged from our state-rooms at four, after a short nap, we found the sky 
 clear and the air soft and warm. Stretched in our chairs, we basked 
 delightedly in the sunlight, and enjoyed the lovely scenery. On either side 
 green, pine-clad hills sloped to the water's edge, and behind them the 
 snow-capped peaks, while tiny feathery islands dotted the water. At 
 sunset the small gap on the horizon between the lines of cloud-hung cliffs 
 was filled with golden mist, through which we seemed to see a fairer range 
 of hills beyond, and as the sun sank lower the white masses of fog which 
 had settled on the very highest peaks became a soft rose-pink, and all the 
 silver sky blushed to where the moon in the east waded through dark 
 driving clouds. 
 
 At one o'clock a point was passed where no sheltering land hid us from 
 the ocean, but even here the swell was so gentle that few were awakened 
 and none were uncomfortable. June 9 found us quietly steering through a 
 channel bounded by mountains— the nearer ones green and wooded and cut 
 with foaming cataracts, while behind were the eternal snows. Now and 
 then came glimpses up sheltered coves and canons ; while little wild ducks 
 fluttered over the glassy black water, shivering it into crinkling light, and 
 diving in a line of bubbles to rise quietly some rods away. A great white 
 bird flew across the water to the hills, and a quivering line of reflection 
 followed beneath him. Early in the morning a little boat was seen a short 
 way from one of the shores. At first we thought it might be only a log, 
 but a man in the stern waved his hat, and as it drew nearer we could 
 distinguish the forms of six or seven people. A little later a canoe with 
 
150 
 
 Tlic Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 high ends and a square sail passed, filled with Indians, two of them wearing 
 scarlet blankets, making a brilliant spot of colour. At sunset, or about 
 nine o'clock, we reached a great open bay where three green islands floated 
 in a pink mist beneath a sky of vivid gold, and just where the sun made a 
 pathway of brazen flakes across the waves rose a great purple promontory — 
 Alaska at last ! 
 
 On June 10 we beheld a line of scraggy wooden buildings, many of 
 them raised on piles ; also some log cabins, and a few tents, with here and 
 there groups of Indians ; while towering over everything were the 
 wonderful totem poles, and this was Fort Wrangel. We all went ashore at 
 the dock shown in Fig. 107, where the Queen is seen made fast to it, and 
 visited the shops, in which were sold furs, antlers, and the spoons with 
 
 Fig. 107. Fort Wrangel, Alaska. 
 
 which the Indians eat ; these spoons were really great scoops of horn or 
 wood, carved with curious wide-open eyes and other strange symbols. 
 
 The most interesting thing in Fort Wrangel is, of course, the totem 
 poles, and these we next visited, going from one to another, and obtaining 
 some very good photographs of several curious ones. These totem poles, 
 varying from 20 ft. to 60 ft. in height, and 2 ft. to 5 ft. in diameter, are 
 said to have been objects of worship, and also to have served as the family 
 crest, for there is great aristocracy even among savages. When an Indian 
 marries he takes the crest of his wife's clan — for they never marry in their 
 own — and it is placed on the totem pole. These Indians would receive 
 high praise from the progressive women of the present age, for it is the 
 
Fort Wranget. 
 
 151 
 
 rule for the wife to have charge of everything of a business nature, and no 
 man makes a transaction unless she agrees. The clans are called the Eagle, 
 the Raven, the Whale, the Wolf, &c. 
 
 One of the oddest-looking poles has a great bear " treed " at the top, 
 and in two places on the sides huge footprints are cut all the way up 
 
 Fig. 10S. Totem Poles, Fort Wkaxgel. 
 
 
 
 
 jit)' i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i^&^a^ 
 
 ■iw^' 
 
 ;-£• 
 
 
 
 
 gjlHs? 
 
 <E 'T-jussi 
 
 
 
 ijaSSSS 
 
 
 
 
 
 jtj.i&S 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 109. Indian Grave, Fort Wbangel. 
 
 (Fig. 108). Another represents a demon devouring a fish who had paused 
 en route with his dinner half swallowed. Others are combinations of fish, 
 flesh, fowl, and imagination. All are weather-stained and moss-grown, and 
 
152 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 have the appearance of great age. One Indian grave is marked by an 
 enormous dog (Fig. 109). Longfellow thus speaks of the totems : 
 
 And they painted on their grave-posts 
 Of the graves yet unforgotten 
 Each his own ancestral totem, 
 Each the symbol of his household — 
 Figure of the bear and reindeer, 
 Of the turtle, crane, and beaver. 
 
 At six o'clock the stopping of the engines caused excitement, which 
 increased when it was known that we were approaching a steamer and 
 were going to be brought close up to her. Gradually the steamer, which 
 proved to be the English ship " Islander," drew nearer and nearer, gay with 
 fluttering handkerchiefs, until at length the two vessels were side by side, 
 and a fender was lowered to prevent them from rubbing against each other. 
 After about ten minutes, when newspapers had been given and hands 
 shaken with the assistance of an umbrella, each shaker grasping one end of 
 it, the steamers separated, both whistling, while everyone cheered as the 
 English flag dipped three times in answer to the stars and stripes ; and in 
 a few minutes the Islander was a white spot in the distance. 
 
 And now we began to realise how far north we had come, for at 
 midnight one could easily read on deck, and it was hard to sleep in the 
 grey twilight. Early in the morning we were wakened by steps above us, 
 and excited cries that we were at the North Pole. 
 
 Looking out of the window, and, in spite of the intense cold, remaining 
 there some time, we were transfixed by the wonder of the scene. On either 
 side great mountains covered with snow and hung with wreaths of white 
 fog plunged sheer to the water's edge. The bay was slate-colour, and on it 
 floated great jagged masses of turquoise-blue ice, which cast a bright 
 reflection on the glassy stream. 
 
 At seven o'clock we all went out on the hurricane deck and beheld 
 between the clustering mountains the blue spires of the Taku Glacier rising 
 100 ft. into the air. On account of its exquisite vivid colour, the Taku 
 Glacier was to us the most beautiful of any we saw. The bay in front of it 
 was filled with masses of ice, which clinked coldly as they struck together ; 
 then came the sound of rushing water, which poured down the rocks from 
 the snow banks, and filled the air, and now and then came a boom like 
 distant cannon from the glacier, a cloud of powdered ice rose, and a piece 
 detached itself and sank into the water. A large black bird with ragged 
 
t^ 
 
 Juneau. 153 
 
 wings circled over the bay, and finally lit on a peak of ice. His hoarse 
 cries added the last touch of desolation to the scene. Although we had 
 often read descriptions of Alaska, and had thought that our eyes were 
 prepared to see this, yet it seemed to strike our minds with great surprise, 
 and we almost felt that it was a dream, and could hardly realise that this 
 wild scene was a reality. To the left a sluggish mud glacier poured its 
 yellow slime into the water, and beside the steamer a little boatful of men 
 were procuring the ice which was to last the Queen for her next two trips. 
 One man standing in the bow caught the piece he desired with a hook, and 
 when his companions had drawn it to them a net was lowered, which they 
 put under the ice, and it was then swung into the hold of the steamer. 
 
 The next point of interest was the Tredwell Mine, situated on Douglas 
 Island, near Juneau. Strange as it may seem, tbe mill at this mine has 
 the largest number of stamps in any mill in the world, no less than 240 
 being employed. The mine is worked in the open cut, and the ore is of 
 low grade, running from 6 dols. to 18 dols. per ton. It was discovered in 
 1860, but has been worked in earnest only since 1885. The ore contains 
 pyrites, which were mistaken by many of the party for free gold. One 
 elderly person carried at great trouble — for she was quite stout— a large 
 piece on board the steamer, thinking she had a "find" rich enough to pay 
 all the expenses of the Alaskan journey, and she looked so happy over it 
 all that no one had the heart to undeceive her. 
 
 In the afternoon we reached Juneau, and having been informed in a 
 little pamphlet, copies of which were distributed at Fort Wrangel, that this 
 was the metropolis of Alaska, containing fine jewellery stores, many 
 inhabitants, &c, we fondly anticipated wide streets and fine buildings, and 
 could hardly believe our eyesight when we beheld (see Fig. 110) the strag- 
 gling lines of tumble-down wooden buildings, and the ragged narrow side- 
 walks beside a slough of mud. The day was bleak and chilly, and we 
 wandered along the dirty streets pelted by a fine slanting rain. One 
 curious little house hung with skins and bright basketwork was built on 
 piles some distance from the shore, and was reached by a narrow board 
 walk swinging high in the air. As we attempted to cross this uncertain 
 bridge we were considerably startled by discovering, when half way over, that 
 three bear cubs were chained upon it. They proved perfectly amiable to 
 us, but later one of the party tried to pat the head of a cub, and left the 
 entire back of his glove in the brute's mouth as a souvenir. When they 
 were driven aside with an umbrella, we passed between them to the shop. 
 
 x 
 
154 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 It contained innumerable Indian curiosities — bones, arrow-heads, and carved 
 stones used for witch charms. A Sister of Charity, next to whom we had 
 the o-ood fortune to be seated at the table, told us a great deal about Juneau 
 and the good work of the Roman Catholic Mission there ; she said that the 
 practice of exorcism for suspected witchcraft was still carried on secretly 
 among the Indians, and that when the victim died he was quietly disposed of 
 
 Fig. 110. Juneau, the Capital of Alaska. 
 
 without the knowledge of the Government officials. We were also told the 
 sad and horrible story of an Indian uprising some time ago. The two tribes 
 at Chilcat had trouble, and when they finally came to blows one man Avas 
 killed. The officials then succeeded in interfering, but both tribes alike 
 demanded the sacrifice of a man to appease the ghost of the dead one. Of 
 course the Government authorities refused to allow this, and they finally 
 sent to Sitka for assistance and a higher officer. He came at once, but so 
 fierce was the feeling among the Indians that some terrible evil would fall 
 on them unless they were allowed to sacrifice the man, that nothing would 
 stop them, and they became uncontrollable. With her brown eyes running 
 
Juneau. 155 
 
 with tears the Sister told of the horrors of that day, when the poor wretch 
 was chosen by lot, and, having been taken without the city, was there tor- 
 tured to death. " He did not die until sunset," she said, " and all day long 
 we heard his screams of agony." 
 
 The population of Juneau seemed to consist almost entirely of Indians, 
 traders, and a few miners and hunters. The squaws squatted along on the 
 sidewalk and in the open doors, holding their babies, and surrounded by 
 dirty children and dogs. We were very much startled by one woman, who 
 shoved her head from her blanket and, peering closely at us, disclosed a 
 brilliant crimson face. A little later we saw another whose face was per- 
 fectly black, and on inquiry discovered the reason of this strange custom. 
 It is hardly to be believed, but the truth is that they do it — first, because 
 they think it becoming ; and, second, to preserve their complexions from 
 sunburn. The weird effect can hardly be imagined ; the woman, whose long 
 black hair hung over a scarlet face from which gleamed snow-white eyeballs 
 and teeth, reminded one of a flayed horror from the " Inferno." 
 
 In spite of their hideous paint and their wild costumes, these Indian 
 women excited our deepest interest and pity on account of the intelligence 
 in many of their faces ; and their spiritual wants have not been forgotten, 
 for the Presbyterians have a struggling mission here. 
 
 Another incident enlivened our visit to Juneau. In the afternoon a 
 couple of Indians came to the steamer and tried to buy whisky from one 
 of our firemen. The selling of whisky to an Indian is an offence which the 
 Government punishes severely, as it renders the red men like wild beasts, 
 and for some time the fireman refused. But when he was offered 5 dols. 
 for half a glass he yielded, and as soon as the sale had been made one of the 
 Indians displayed an official badge ; he proved to be a policeman, and took 
 him into custody. Of course the fireman was in the wrong, but we could 
 not help pitying him when we learned that he must remain at Juneau until 
 the court met in November, before he could even be tried. 
 
 In the evening many boats loaded with Indians came from both shores 
 and circled about the steamer. The canoes were very picturesque, and 
 looked not unlike Venetian gondolas, being very high at both ends. They 
 are hollowed from a single great log, and carved to suit the owner's fancy. 
 Sometimes they contained as many as fourteen men, women, and children, 
 all dressed in bright-coloured blankets, making a very pretty picture as they 
 paddled about on the quiet water. They seemed very jolly and good- 
 natured, and one big boat-load pulled up close beside the steamer and tried 
 
156 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 to sell a little stuffed bear. The passengers threw down fruit and cakes, to 
 the great delight of the Indians, and when one bag of peanuts hit on the 
 edge of the canoe and broke, a bright-faced savage displayed his knowledge 
 of English by shouting smilingly : 
 
 " All busted ! " 
 
 When, again, an ill-aimed bag of cake fell into the dirty salt water, 
 they would grab excitedly for the floating cakes, which the fat babies seized 
 and devoured at once. We were told that they live on almost anything 
 they can find, even the most horrible refuse, and stale fish is to them a 
 luxury. 
 
 There are several gold mines near Juneau, about three miles back in 
 the country, and the writers intended to visit them, but the rain and mud 
 proved to be too much of a hindrance, and the only horse in town was busy 
 hauling stores of provisions, and was not available. From all that could be 
 learned, it appeared that these mines were doing quite well, and their owners 
 did not care to part with them. In this respect they were an exception to 
 everything we saw in Alaska. It was all for sale, and the prices were per- 
 fectly ridicu!ous, sometimes, and not infrequently, eight or ten times their 
 value. It is better to buy furs at Minneapolis, or even in New York City, 
 as you can purchase the Alaskan furs at those places for about one-fourth 
 of the prices asked in Juneau and Sitka. 
 
 Sailing from Juneau, we reached Chilcat, with its glaciers, at some 
 unholy matin hour. Here we saw the Davidson Glacier, three miles in 
 breadth, spreading out like a fan. This was the highest point we reached 
 in the trip, being 59 deg. 10 min. 36 sec, and the sun shone 21 hours out of 
 the 24 at the time of our visit. 
 
 At 9 a.m. there was a silver streak on the fog -hung water, which spread 
 and brightened until the sun burst forth and drove away the mist, and we 
 saw about us great ranges of mountains, looking like blue ocean waves with 
 their summits breaking into foam. All the afternoon we passed a succession 
 of beautiful scenes. Sometimes the pathway widened out like a great bay, 
 and we seemed shut in by hills, water, and sky, all of the most vivid blue, 
 while the waves sparkled in the sunlight as though strewn with thousands 
 of diamonds. And now the water shrank into a channel as small as a river, 
 where, with the engine at reduced speed, the steamer threaded its way 
 among tiny green islands, with opening vistas beyond, down other streams 
 of green and snow-clad peaks. We passed many Indians, and went so close 
 to the shore in places that we could look far into the woods and mark the 
 
Sitka. 
 
 157 
 
 beautiful shrubs and trees which drooped over the banks. At six o'clock we 
 saw, between a range of green mountains, the white summit of Mount 
 Edgecombe, its snowy foothills hid in great billows of silver clouds, and 
 beyond them the azure expanse of the Pacific Ocean. The water was abso- 
 lutely quiet, and the steamer rode on past beautiful tufted islands to where 
 the city of Sitka (Fig. Ill) clustered by the Indian River in the hollows of 
 the hills, with the pale green spires of the Russian Church rising in its 
 midst. In the wide circle of the beautiful harbour, three men-of-war lay at 
 anchor, and on the broad green above the wharf was a gay and motley 
 assemblage of sailors, marines, and Indians. As soon as we landed we 
 
 Fig. 111. The Town of Sitka. 
 
 walked through the town, stopping to examine the bright baskets and silver 
 rings and bracelets of the squaws who lined the road. A white-washed wall 
 made a fine background, and our photographers were extremely anxious for 
 pictures. Although some of the women "put on airs," giggled in strangling 
 gutturals, and coquettishly veiled their faces with their shawls, or hid them 
 in their hands, they were not really afraid, like the Indians of the prairies, 
 and we succeeded in obtaining two excellent pictures. The little museum 
 out at the Mission some two miles distant was then visited, and there we 
 saw curious nets made of whalebone ; canoes made so that the oarsman 
 buttoned himself into the centre just as he would button on a jacket ; suits of 
 salmon skin, and Indian, Russian, and Esquimaux relics of all kinds. One 
 of the young men from the Indian Mission acted as our guide, and politely 
 explained everything. The party~'then accompanied him to the Mission, 
 
158 Tlie Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 where we enjoyed a most interesting performance, which reflected the 
 greatest credit on both teachers and pupils. First came a drill with 
 American flags, in Avhich the whole school took part, and then some pupils, 
 first a boy and then a girl, stepped to the front of the platform and made 
 a little speech, personating one of the United States and telling of its 
 characteristics. 
 
 There are now 50 girls and 100 boys in this institution, of various ages, 
 the youngest being but three and the oldest twenty-two years. They are 
 taught English branches of education, and also many useful trades, which 
 they practise among their own people. When the exercises were concluded, 
 we passed out into the front yard, where a band, composed entirely of 
 Indians, played surprisingly well, keeping the most perfect time, and giving 
 us in several instances tunes of the day, showing they are quite up in 
 popular music. The work done among the Indians is showing most 
 excellent results, and the number of well-dressed and intelligent-looking 
 Indians about the town affords an evidence of it. 
 
 The people here claim that these Indians are superior to any others in 
 the country, and are much more easily brought to adopt the ways of 
 civilisation. It is obvious at a glance that the face of the Alaskan Indian 
 is in many ways radically different from the red men of the south, and it has 
 even been suggested that these people were originally Japanese who were 
 wrecked on the Alaskan coast, and the flat noses and peculiar shape of their 
 faces and eyes seem to give credence to this theory. 
 
 We found Sitka a unique and an interesting place, for it has inherited 
 from its Russian ancestry a distinctly foreign air, and in it is a mixture of 
 nations, Indians, Russians, Esquimaux, and Americans, and a babel of 
 tongues, for some of the Indians still talk Russian in addition to their own 
 dialects. We felt, too, that we were on historic ground, for this city was 
 the theatre of the bloody struggle between the Russian settlers and the 
 Indians, succeeded later by the peaceful arbitration of Russia and the 
 United States. High above the harbour is the barn-like structure of 
 Earanoff Castle, formerly the residence of the Russian governor, Baranoff, 
 who ruled here with tyrannical severity in the first part of this century. It 
 is a pleasure to all Americans to think of that day when, through the far- 
 seeing policy of the Hon. Willian Steward, the sale of Alaska had been 
 effected, and amid the cheers of soldiers and people and the booming of 
 cannon the Russian flag fell, to give place to the stars and stripes. The 
 Government Building is seen in Fig. Ill, and the Revenue Office adjoining, 
 
An Indian Dance. 159 
 
 while at the end of the main street appears the Russian Church. The 
 buildings between are all trading stores. 
 
 On our way back to the steamer we were attracted by a crowd on the 
 wharf, and on inquiring found that the tourists were shaking hands with 
 the Princess Thorn, who is the Indian heiress of Sitka, and is said to be 
 worth as much as 100,000 dols. Do not fancy that we saw a graceful brown 
 maiden decorated with beads and feathers ; we beheld a stout woman 
 weighing about 250 lb. and some 60 years old, dressed in an ill-fitting 
 brown waist and skirt, who, however, smiled at the crowd in a most friendly 
 manner. 
 
 That night we saw a genuine Indian dance, or rather a series of them. 
 A place was cleared in a large house, and the spectators were seated on 
 benches ; directly in front of them, squatting on the floor, were some eight 
 or ten very cunning little Indian girls, all under six years old. They kept 
 time by pounding on the floor to the beat of the Indian drum and singing a 
 slow chant. The dancers went out of the room, and presently came in one 
 by one dressed so as to imitate some animal, such as a bear, a deer, a 
 porcupine, or a wolf. They also imitated the actions of these animals. The 
 acting was extremely good, and the performance seemed to be a sort of 
 allegory. As nearly as we could decide, they represented two tribes at war. 
 All of a sudden they rushed at one unfortunate chap and proceeded to take 
 vengeance on him. After he had been mauled sufficiently to the tune of an 
 Indian quickstep, amid howls and shrieks, he was induced to open his hand 
 and display an image. This was the signal for a new onslaught, and the 
 poor fellow looked as though he had been trying conclusions with a patent 
 reaper. After this had been repeated three times, he opened his hand, and 
 it was empty, and then they had a sort of love dance all hands around. We 
 understood the doll was an evil spirit, Avhich they had exorcised, and that 
 now both tribes would be at peace for ever. They also had a medicine 
 dance, and restored a dead boy to life. This was very well done, especially 
 by the boy, who took good care not to come to life till the proper time, and 
 then only to do so by degrees. As he came to life he emerged slowly from 
 a fur robe. The music had a sweet, solemn sound, and the whole 
 performance was excellent. The Indians believe in one figure on their 
 doors to indicate the number of the house, so the Government has allowed 
 them to add ciphers ; thus the first house in this somewhat crooked street 
 is 100, and the next is 200, &c. 
 
 The high latitude caused many amusing mistakes as to time, and one 
 
160 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 lady who had been to call on a missionary on shore was quite shocked to 
 find she had called on the poor man at 10.30 p.m., and had remained till 12 
 midnight. Nothing but the sight of her own watch on the steamer would 
 make her believe this, for she was a lineal descendant of St. Thomas. The 
 houses had curious signs on them ; one read " Elisha Cadwalder, the father 
 of a large family of Christian children." When Ave finally retired it was in 
 broad daylight, and the state-rooms had to be closed to keep out the sun, 
 although it was about 1 a.m. 
 
 The next morning we visited the Russian Church, where a courteous 
 Russian, seeing our interest, showed us the massive crowns with their great 
 jewels which are still worn by the brides and grooms. Also we saw the 
 bishop's mitre of pearls, which contains one great emerald. We then 
 examined the pictures which were sent here 70 years ago by Russian 
 noblemen when the church was built. Most of them are very curious- 
 looking, as the figures are of gold or silver, with hands, feet, and faces of 
 painted ivory. Apart from the others, in a separate room, is an exquisite 
 Madonna, which our guide informed us is fabled to have been painted by 
 Raphael, and he added they had refused 20,000 dols. for it. Whether this 
 be true or false, the faces in this picture are very lovely, with a delicate 
 softness of finish and great sweetness of expression, and if Raphael did not 
 paint it, there is no doubt he would not have been ashamed of it. 
 
 We also entered a little Greek Mission Church, where a service was 
 being held ; many Indians were present, and their resonant voices, as they 
 sang the service, were very weird and pathetic. We then walked to the 
 Indian River, and rested for some time in the pine woods on its shores. 
 Here the moss hung from the gnarled trees, and although it was now the 
 middle of June, the branches were tipped with the new green of spring, and 
 the ground was strewn in places with delicate white flowers. On our 
 return to the steamer the whistle was blown to collect the passengers, and 
 as its echoing and piercing shriek resounded, a most hideous wailing, 
 howling, and barking filled the air, ceasing as soon as the whistle paused, 
 and being resumed when it recommenced. We soon discovered that this 
 noise proceeded from the numberless dogs of the Indian village, who thus 
 expressed their decided disapproval of the sound. 
 
 In the evening we reached the entrance to Glacier Bay. The hills 
 about us were dark green with hardy foliage, but beyond the gateway the 
 mountains were covered with snow, and behind these the sun was just 
 setting, wrapping them in glory, tinging pink the little ripples of cloud, 
 
IPIJSjg^ 
 
 ■a 
 
 
 
 ■Ki^** 
 
 y» -v-- : 
 
 *W^£?"fc-. ■■"■ JLt,, ■JtL 
 
 * ^^pHBSssMMM^H 9 
 
 
 
162 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 and its light shading into clear yellow on the horizon, against which the 
 white cliffs were cut sharpty, while far in the distance the pale light shone 
 on the level ice of a broad glacier. At midnight the sun was a gleaming 
 spot in the hollow between two high white peaks, and from it one ray of 
 light shot across the waves like a golden arrow. By this time we were 
 surrounded by icebergs, snow-white, blue, and emerald-green, and the water 
 was a black mirror in which they measured their length as they drifted 
 past. Our progress was now difficult, if not actually dangerous, for we 
 were the first steamer of the season to penetrate this frozen bay, and it was 
 here that the Islander had been blocked by the ice and forced to return. 
 Slowly we threaded our way among the floating bergs, with every now and 
 then a crash and jar, and the crunching sound of the ice grinding beneath 
 the steamer (Fig. 112). 
 
 At one o'clock in the morning we saw before us the high peaks and 
 masses which the Indians called the " Ice Mountains." This white 
 enormous barrier looming before us through the grey light was the great 
 Muir Glacier (Figs. 113, 114, and 115). The height of the ice wall above 
 the water is about 300 ft., but soundings show that 720 ft. are below the 
 surface ; while a third portion is buried beneath moraine material. " There- 
 fore," says Professor Muir, " were the water and rocky detritus cleared 
 away, a sheer wall of blue ice would be presented a mile and a half wide 
 and more than 1000 ft. high. This one glacier is made up of about 200 
 tributary glaciers, which drain an area of about 1000 square miles, and 
 contains more ice than all the 11,000 glaciers of the Alps combined. The 
 distance from the front, back to the farthest tributary is about 50 miles, and 
 the width of the trunk below the confluence of the main tributaries is 20 
 miles or more." 
 
 The next morning all was bustle and excitement ; boats were lowered 
 and parties started on exploring expeditions. This party will be the last 
 crowd of tourists who will ever wander at will on the Muir Glacier, for we 
 brought with us 12 men who were to remain in a little hut on the beach, 
 and whose work it was to put up a number of signs showing the right 
 direction to take and the dangerous places, besides erecting a wooden bridge 
 to cross between two lakes on a strip of ice, concerning which we shall have 
 more to say later. Of course it will be much safer with all these pre- 
 cautions, but we were really glad to be without them, for the spice of 
 danger lent a keen enjoyment to our wanderings, and, somehow, even the 
 greatest scenes are dwarfed by signboards and by the beaten tracks of men. 
 
The Muir Glacier. 163 
 
 The ice upon which multitudes have tramped their way appears much less 
 wonderful and even smaller than the trackless waste over which you seem 
 to be the first explorer. 
 
 We were among the very last to leave, and as we waited impatiently 
 on the upper deck we could see the earlier patties crawling over the white 
 face of the glacier, looking like little black ants. One athletic young 
 man, whom among ourselves we called " Tartarin," in memory of the 
 immortal Alpine climber, made great preparations for a grand exploring 
 expedition. We saw him start early in the morning with great ropes 
 wound about him, and carrying a steel-pointed staff and other implements 
 m his hand. He took his dinner also, and climbed all day, returning with 
 tales of wonder and beauty, but as the glacier seemed about the same in 
 one part as in another, we consoled ourselves with the thought that we had 
 really seen as much as he had told us he saw. For travellers have been 
 known to magnify a little. 
 
 At last it was our turn to go, and we descended the ladder into the 
 little boat, and were rowed across the rocking waves. Near the shore were 
 four men, who held the boat close to a floating bridge. They stood almost 
 all day up to their waists in the icy water, and though they had on high 
 rubber boots, it must have been very cold and uncomfortable. And now 
 came the hard and tedious part of the journey, for we had to climb for two 
 miles over the rocky moraine. This is the hardest walking imaginable, as 
 it is mostly uphill, and the masses of broken rock are embedded in ice. 
 Nevertheless we could not advise anyone to forego the Muir Glacier on 
 account of this hard pull. 
 
 Now, as we steadily proceeded, the rocks were more scattered and the 
 ice plainly visible, while beyond us loomed the great white waste which was 
 our goal. We came to cracks several feet deep, and then to a great black 
 hole, into which we threw a stone, pausing to hear it clink, clink all the 
 way down, and "chung!" into water far beneath us. Soon great seams 
 and chasms opposed our advance, and we were obliged to cross the 
 smaller ones and to go around the larger. In a few minutes even the 
 sprinkling of stones was gone, and we trod upon the solid snow of the glacier. 
 Then our further progress became a scene of wonder and delight. It was a 
 perfect day for such a trip, for there was no wind, and the sun was behind 
 clouds, although the sky was vivid blue where it could be seen. The white 
 sea of the glacier streamed away before us in frozen waves to a rano- e of 
 snow-covered mountains far in the distance, and close at our side a little 
 
164 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 river of the most gorgeous blue had forced a channel for itself and cut across 
 the ice. Great holes as blue as turquoise were all about us, and as we 
 advanced we came to hills of ice and precipitous crevasses. We now formed 
 in single file, and stepped carefully in the footprints of our leaders as the 
 path wound about the slippery sides of chasms and over the crests of snowy 
 billows. At length we saw that all those before us had stopped and were 
 gathered in an excited crowd. We hurried to reach them, and at once 
 perceived the cause of the delay. We had reached a point where but one 
 possible path lay before us, and this was across a little bridge of ice about 
 6 in. wide and 7 ft. long, which shelved abruptly on both sides to glorious 
 blue lakes, where the ice shone like jewels through unfathomed depths of 
 clear water. A few daring ones had crossed, but the rest were debating as 
 to making the attempt. One lady came boldly to the brink six times, when 
 her courage failed her. She said she had " changed her mind," and then 
 she meekly returned, being satisfied with having exercised that inalienable 
 right of her sex. Formed in line, we firmly grasped one another's hands, 
 and, stepping sideways, crossed the abyss. It is here that the wooden 
 bridge, before mentioned, is to be placed, and it is greatly needed, as a 
 misstep might be fatal. We now proceeded some distance further, and 
 rested awhile on the crest of a wave of ice, surveying the strange and pallid 
 scene ; our eyes travelling over the towers of snow which gleamed in the 
 grey light to where the white hills 40 miles away were cut like cameos 
 against the bright blue sky. Far beneath us we could hear the gurgling 
 of a sub-glacial river, and looking down through a gaping fissure, we saw 
 the hidden torrent many feet below plunging down in a great waterfall. 
 
 Awed by the wonder of the scene, we ceased to speak, and over the 
 frozen waste there seemed to rest an almost oppressive stillness, which was 
 at length broken by sti'ains of music. A gentleman of another party was 
 mounted on a pinnacle so far away that he appeared a mere black dot to us, 
 but, on account of the extreme clearness of the air, his sweet voice, and 
 even the words of " America," came to us over the fields of ice. 
 
 Our return was, of course, very tiring, but we did not regret the trip, 
 and just as we were leaving the glacier the sun broke from behind the 
 clouds, and the ice glittered in the sunlight. It was very brilliant and 
 beautiful, but we were thankful that this sparkling sea had been in shadow 
 while we were traversing it, on account of the glare, which was dazzling. 
 In the afternoon the captain took a small party of ladies ashore in his little 
 steam launch. As the} r passed the glacier, a big piece of ice detached 
 
The Muir Glacier 165 
 
 itself, plunged into the water with a great splash, and rose to the surface 
 not far from the little craft, causing it to dance wildly on the leaping waves, 
 whereupon the ladies screamed all together, and implored the men to " let 
 tbem get off I let them get off I" not stating where they desired to be 
 landed. Some of the party returned to the shore and spent the rest of the 
 day wandering about, talking to the few Indians who live in this desolate 
 spot, and in gathering gorgeous red blossoms which grew upon the hills on 
 either side of the glacier. 
 
 Before leaving, the steamer approached within half a mile of the 
 glacier, and we saw it rise above us like enormous pillars and spires of 
 marble veined with blue. It appeared in the twilight a great white wall, 
 400 ft. high, and from three to four miles wide (Fig. 113). The cold was 
 intense, and when our whistle blew, the echo was almost as loud and clear 
 as the original sound. 
 
 Then we steered carefully back among the icebergs, and, turning, took 
 our last look at the Muir Glacier. Between the dark ledges of rock its 
 white waves streamed back to the hills against a pale gold sky, and a 
 shimmering glory shone across the sea of ice. 
 
 Our return voyage was a pleasant but uneventful one, our only excite- 
 ment being a little impromptu entertainment by the young people, just 
 before we reached Queen Charlotte's Sound, which is the roughest portion 
 of the trip. Some very clever songs were composed and sung, an Indian 
 pow-wow was given, and the whole affair was exceedingly pleasant. 
 
 We had hardly reached our state-rooms when the boat began to plunge 
 in the waves, and one of our poets asserted that he heard a minister 
 chanting sadly, 
 
 Rock-a-bye, preacher, in the berth top ; 
 When the wind blows you'll empty your crop. 
 
 There really was but a gentle swell, and that only lasted about two hours. 
 
 We stopped at Nanaimo one afternoon, to take in coal, and a line of 
 boats tied together and headed by the steam launch, was towed across the 
 water, to visit the town. Some of the passengers, also, went ashore at the 
 coal-yard, and wandering about in the woods, returned with their arms full 
 of beautiful ferns and flowers. The next day we reached Seattle, and on 
 leaving the steamer all expressed their thorough enjoyment of the whole 
 trip, indulging in the hope that they might repeat it at some future time. 
 We cannot think of any journey that would be so restful as this quiet sail. 
 One is entirely cut off from the busy, tiresome world, having just enough 
 
166 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 change to interest, yet not enough to fatigue either mind or body, and is 
 thus enabled to enjoy a recuperating calm, while the fresh ocean breezes 
 bring a furious appetite, and the meals can be thoroughly enjoyed all the 
 time. 
 
 After a short stay at Seattle and Tacoma, we started on the next stage 
 of our journey, and the next great point of interest, viz., the Yellowstone 
 Park. The rains which had been deluging the country made frequent 
 delays necessary, but, on the other hand, they added greatly to the beauty 
 of the scenery, for the forests were green and luxuriant in their foliage, 
 while even the smallest brooks were filled, and rushed by us like small 
 torrents, babbling and purling their welcome. 
 
 The Green River follows the railway track for many miles, and the 
 moonlight on its raging waters, causing them to look like molten silver, 
 presented an effect which will long be remembered. The great engineering 
 feat in this road was the construction of Stampede Tunnel, at an elevation 
 of 3000 ft. This tunnel is nearly 10,000 ft. long, and is lighted by 
 electricity. The canon is marvellously beautiful, and we reluctantly left its 
 contemplation to seek our couches. The next morning we stopped at 
 Spokane for some hours, and the entire party was soon distributed through 
 the city, which, like many other places, proved to all a most delightful 
 surprise. Broad streets and fine buildings were to be seen on all sides. 
 The electric road is everywhere, and no wonder, for by glancing at Fig. 116 
 the reader will see one of the finest water-powers in the State. This was 
 ascertained to be 30,000 horse-power ; thus it enables the street railways to 
 dispense largely with animal labour. And it not only furnishes this power, 
 but also all necessary to light the town. Moreover, several fine mills are 
 in operation on its banks. Spokane has a promising future, and will be 
 heard of as one of the foremost manufacturing towns of the State. 
 
 The city is situated midway between Helena, Montana, and the Puget 
 Sound. It is 400 miles each way from a city of any considerable size. 
 The city is located at the Falls of the Spokane River, on each side of the 
 river, the ground rising gradually to a line of bluffs three-quarters of a 
 mile back from the river. On the north side, a broad, level plain stretches 
 for about two miles and several miles east and west from the falls. The 
 business section of the city is south of the stream, the mills and manu- 
 facturing enterprises along its bank. 
 
 Spokane is on three trans-continental lines — the Northern Pacific, the 
 Union Pacific, and the Great Northern. In addition, they have the 
 
Spokane. 167 
 
 Spokane and Palouse, the Central Washington, the Spokane and Idaho, 
 the Spokane and Northern, the Cceur d'Alene branch of the Union Pacific 
 and the Seattle, the Lake Shore and Eastern, in direct communication 
 with all points of the surrounding country. 
 
 In 1889 a fire destroyed 38 blocks of the business portion ot the city, 
 resulting in a loss of upwards of 10,000,000 dols. Since then the burned 
 portion has been rebuilt, at a cost of between 6,000,000 dols. and 8,000,000 
 dols. Among the more prominent blocks erected since the fire are the 
 Auditorium, containing a very handsome opera house, with a seating- 
 capacity of 3500 people, costing 300,000 dols. ; the Granite Block, Hyde 
 Block, Blalock Block, Rookery Building, Spokane National Bank Building 
 First National Bank Building. Any of these buildings would do credit to 
 the streets of the larger eastern cities. During 1891, the work of re- 
 building was continued, there being about 350,000 dols. expended in 
 business structures, consisting of 31 new brick business houses. 
 
 Within a radius of 150 miles of Spokane, there were produced, in 1890, 
 about 7,000,000 bushels of wheat, and in 1891 the crop is estimated at 
 17,000,000 bushels of wheat, 6,500,000 bushels of oats, and 4,000,000 
 bushels of barley. The Palouse country south of the city has an estimated 
 area of 13,000,000 acres of arable land suitable for wheat-raising. The 
 Big Bend country, lying west of the city, has an area of 4,000,000 acres, 
 also suitable for wheat. It is estimated that one-sixth of this country 
 is now under cultivation. With the water power at Spokane, this vast 
 crop will be ground more cheaply there and shipped east or west in the 
 shape of finished product, rather than in the form of grain. 
 
 The Edison Electric Illuminating Company have erected a very large 
 power station at the corner of Front and Monroe streets, the building 
 being 65 ft. by 120 ft. The turbines are erected 20 ft. above extreme 
 low water, so there can be no danger of flood interfering with the 
 machinery. These wheels are run under a pressure due to 70 ft. fall of 
 water, those driving the arc machines making 675 revolutions per minute, 
 and those for the incandescent machines making above 1000 revolutions per 
 minute. The company supplies electric light to all parts of the city, runs 
 the elevators in the different buildings, supplies the power to the street 
 cars, printing presses, and all classes of light machinery, &c, all 
 operated direct from the main plant. A long distance telephone system is 
 in operation with nearly all of the mining camps and points of importance 
 in East Washington. The city is rapidly becoming a large flour mill centre, 
 
168 The Yosemite, Afaska, and the YeUou'stone. 
 
 there being four mills in operation, and a new 1200 barrel per day mill soon 
 to be erected. They have five breweries, six lumber mills, three sash, door, 
 and furniture factories, iron works, oatmeal mill, and various other enter- 
 prises, which make use of the valuable water power. The value of the 
 water power is estimated at 1,500,000 dols. annually to the city. Spokane 
 has school property valued at about 500,000 dols., with a very complete 
 system of public and high schools. There are seven school buildings- 
 There is also located here the Spokane College and Spokane University, 
 Gonzaga College, and a seminary for young ladies. 
 
 The banks in Spokane, with capital and surplus, are as follows : 
 
 Capital. Surplus. 
 
 Washington National 
 Exchange National 
 Traders' National 
 Citizens' National 
 First National 
 Old National ... 
 Browne National 
 Bank of Spokane Falls 
 
 Total 
 
 In addition, there are the Washington Savings Bank, with a capital of 
 150,000 dols., and surplus of 18,000 dols., and the Spokane Savings Bank, 
 with a capital of 60,000 dols., and surplus of 20,000 dols. The street 
 railway systems consist of 25 miles of cable and electric roads, and are 
 fast increasing. The present water works plant of the city cost approxi- 
 mate^ 300,000 dols., and, including the franchise, it is estimated at 
 1,000,000 dols. The present pumping capacity of the plant is approximately 
 8,000,000 gallons per day. 
 
 We now passed from Washington, where we had enjoyed so much 
 hospitality, into the State most lately added to the galaxy of national 
 stars, to wit, the State of Idaho. A. stop of an hour was made at Cour 
 d'Alene, where recently so much blood has been shed in an effort to convince 
 the miners that even in Idaho the law is as supreme as in the most civilised 
 parts of the Union. That the lesson has been thoroughly learned there is 
 but little doubt. The men were on a strike at the time of our visit, and 
 came down to the station in large numbers to gaze at us. The railroad 
 follows the shores of a beautiful lake, called Pend d'Oreille. 
 
 dols. 
 
 dols. 
 
 100,000 
 
 22,000 
 
 100,000 
 
 60,000 
 
 200,000 
 
 104,000 
 
 150,000 
 
 18,800 
 
 100,000 
 
 126,700 
 
 300,000 
 
 
 100,000 
 
 18,000 
 
 150,000 
 
 125.000 
 
 ,200,000 
 
 474,500 
 
Helena. 169 
 
 The last station in Idaho is called Hope, though whether it was the 
 Hope deferred or realised, one cannot state, but as the time changes here 
 and we find we have lost an hour, it certainly was not deferred, but 
 advanced. Here there is a farewell view of the beautiful lake, at the upper 
 extremity of which the road ascends Clarke's Forks, a very rapid stream, 
 and after roaring through various gorges, reaches the Bitter Root Moun- 
 tains ; in one place, environed by a succession of high mountains, is a lovely 
 piece of landscape known as Deer Park. (See Fig. 117.) 
 
 The country now began to change in character, and although still 
 mountainous, yet there were stretches of plains to be seen on both sides, 
 and many herds feeding. We had passed again into a new State of such 
 size that it contains within its borders 1,000,000 more acres than the entire 
 States of New England combined, and as many square miles as New 
 York, Pennsylvania, and Illinois together. This was the great State of 
 Montana, containing 40,000,000 acres of land, or 143,776 square miles, 
 with a population of 131,769. 
 
 The first view of moment is at Horse Plains (shown in Fig. 118). We 
 passed over several trestles of nearly 1000 ft. in length, and sometimes over 
 100 ft. high, and through sections of country where fierce struggles had 
 occurred with the Indians in the early days, until we reached Mullan 
 Tunnel, about 5500 ft. above sea-level. At this point we descended the 
 eastern slope of the Continental Divide, and passed by placer mines that 
 have made many a heart to sing for joy, and many another to break from 
 sorrow, until about 4 p.m. we reached the city of Helena, a view of which 
 is given in Fig. 119. There are here some 15,000 people, and near by is 
 the famous " Last Chance Gulch," which has yielded about 10,000,000 dols. 
 in gold. It has been the hope of many people that they will some day walk 
 the " Golden Streets," but in Helena, despite the name, this hope comes 
 pretty near realisation, for you may here walk the silver streets, since, just 
 before our visit, an excavation in the principal thoroughfare showed a well- 
 defined vein of silver extending along it, and the burning question agitating 
 the city throughout at the time of our visit was, to whom this vein belonged. 
 At this place the benefits of our method of travelling were shown. We 
 had been living on our train for several days, and in order to break the 
 journey and give us a rest, this stop was made, and the entire party taken 
 to the Hotel Broadwater by means of an electric car, a distance of three 
 miles from the station. This was a delightful surprise, and gave us all a 
 pleasant feeling of obligation to Raymond and Whitcomb for their fore- 
 
TJie Yellowstone Parle. 171 
 
 thought. Not only was the hotel a large and beautiful house, with 
 attractive grounds, and a fine table, but adjacent to it, in the park, was a 
 very large and luxurious natatorium, containing a large bath, fed from hot 
 springs, into which the party plunged, and emerged thoroughly refreshed 
 and ready for the dinner, which was worthy of the place in every respect, 
 and to which our sharpened appetites enabled us to do ample justice. There 
 was a " hop " at the hotel that evening, and at the proper time the party 
 returned to their cars and woke up the next morning at Cinnabar, the 
 entrance to the Yellowstone Park ; but how changed everything was to the 
 writer, who had ridden past this very spot in 1883, when there was no 
 railroad nor any house to be seen. The principal feature of Cinnabar is the 
 mountain known as the Devil's Slide, and, judging from its red colour, no 
 doubt his Satanic Majesty wore out not alone the seat of his trousers, but 
 also a part of his skin. His presence here is still defined, for almost every 
 house is a liquor-saloon ; but then in this section of country even the air is 
 dry, which may account for the fact. At this point we took stages for the 
 hotel at the Mammoth Hot Springs, a drive of about six miles. Now we 
 were within a stage drive of Yellowstone Park, a map of which is given 
 in Fig. 120. 
 
 As soon as breakfast was over, we hurried out and were soon seated ; 
 the driver cracked his whip, the four horses darted forward, and we spun 
 away over the level sandy road. 
 
 " It is exactly as I expected it to be," said someone beside us, and 
 we agreed with him. There are scenes which burst upon you with over- 
 whelming novelty, and there are others which exactly satisfy your pre- 
 conceived idea. This was the outskirts of the Yellowstone Park, as we 
 had so often fancied it ; the wild, almost treeless, waste of low hills, 
 covered with pale green sage bushes, here and there a lonely white house, 
 and four or five reckless horsemen dashing away before us, controlling big- 
 herds of scattered cattle. On the slopes were the most exquisite wild 
 flowers ; one especially beautiful blossom was shaped like a pond lily, and 
 bore on the same plant both white and shell-pink flowers. Little gophers, 
 which the driver called " whang-doodles," scudded past us, and " cotton- 
 tail " rabbits bobbed through the sedge. Once we passed a white prairie 
 schooner lumbering slowly along, and, peeping inside, we saw a comely 
 brown-faced woman and four or five black-eyed children. A little beyond 
 was their discarded camp, and near it we noticed steam ascending from a 
 pool of water, A boiling spring ! It gave us a strange feeling of the 
 
MAPOF THE 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Compiled from different official explorations 
 
 Fig. 120. Plan of the Yellowstone Park. 
 
The Mammoth Hot Sjorings. 173 
 
 thinness and instability of the very ground, and it seemed as though we 
 must be over a boiling lake. A few trees were scattered on the hillside, 
 and soon we approached a fringe of verdure along the banks of the foaming 
 Gardiner River. 
 
 At about noon we saw between the green hills, the smoking terraces 
 of the Mammoth Hot Springs. There is something so unnatural in this 
 strange great formation that its effect is almost saddening, and the 
 wonderful beauty of its varied colouring only makes it the more unearthly. 
 It is far more like a scene from the " Inferno " than a part of the United 
 States, and it requires but little imagination to people this blasted 
 mountain with throngs of demons. After lunch we began the ascent, first 
 passing the Liberty Cap, which is an extinct geyser cone 52 ft. high and 
 20 ft. in diameter at its base. 
 
 We had all brought blue or smoked glasses with us, but, very 
 fortunately, the sun was partially overclouded, which prevented the glare 
 on the white formation, while occasional bursts of sunshine showed us the 
 colours. The ascent of the Mammoth Hot Springs is tedious and tiring 
 and it requires constant care to avoid stepping in the boiling water which 
 trickles over the formation. 
 
 Our first stopping-place was Minerva Terrace (Fig. 121), which is 
 40 ft. high, and covers nearly three-quarters of an acre. Its pillar-like 
 furrows shade from white and delicate cream to deep red and orange, and 
 the steaming pool of water is vivid blue. The spring of Jupiter Terrace, 
 which we next visited, is the largest, being nearly 100 ft. in diameter, and 
 its terraces are in many fantastic forms. It would be useless to attempt 
 a detailed description of the wonderful springs, yet each one is slightly 
 different from all the others. In some the colours vary from pale pink to 
 deep rose-colour; while another is as white as snow, its crystal water 
 covered at the edges with floating flakes like marble. The smell of sulphur 
 from the clouds of steam is very perceptible, but not at all disagreeable. 
 If objects are placed in these pools they are heavily coated with white 
 soda in a few days. 
 
 Distant growls of thunder hurried us back to the hotel, which we 
 had hardly reached when the storm broke. It lasted only a short time, and 
 when the sun again burst forth, the high pale terraces gleaming in the 
 light, and the columns of white steam rising steadily in the windless air, 
 were clear cut against the purple clouds. The Mammoth Hot Springs 
 Hotel is a large and well-appointed building, and it was with feelings of 
 
176 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 regret that we left the next morning. We were going into a wild and 
 unknown country, and however beautiful might be the scenery, the 
 happiness of humanity unfortunately depends largely upon cooks, as Owen 
 Meredith has so plainly told us. 
 
 Our morning's journey was a pleasant and an interesting one ; our 
 road wound along the dizzy edge of a ravine, where great engineering skill 
 had been employed in its construction. The long drive in the fresh air had 
 given us famous appetites, but when we reached Norris's, our lunch-place, 
 the scene which met our eyes was far from reassuring. The hotel had 
 been burnt to the ground, and several tents supplied its place. However, 
 we were pleasantly surprised by an excellent meal. 
 
 We then drove through the Norris Geyser Basin, which is a tract of 
 blasted land, honeycombed with little geysers and boiling springs. As the 
 traveller gradually approaches from above, the jets of steam rising above 
 the low trees make it look as if he was nearing a collection of factories. 
 All the afternoon we passed a succession of beautiful and wonderful scenes, 
 and we often stopped to taste the waters of medicinal springs of iron, soda, 
 and alum. Beside the road were many boiling springs, the most curious 
 being the Devil's Punch Bowl (Fig. 122), where, it is said, he cooks eggs 
 in the morning, and the driver informed us, as we gazed at the popping, 
 snapping bubbles, that his Satanic Majesty was then at work. We could 
 not see him, and from the odours which blew to us from the pool, we 
 decided that we did not care to remain to breakfast. 
 
 Later we saw two beautiful lakes, whose sea-green waters gleam over 
 a bottom of marble-white formation, and then we all alighted at the cliffs 
 of Obsidian Glass, and picked up great pieces, which resembled coal until 
 the dirt was removed, when they were exactly like very dark green glass. 
 Obsidian is a species of lava, which, according to Pliny, was first found in 
 Ethiopia. The name, however, seems to have been applied by the ancients 
 to Chian marble, and is probably a false spelling of the Greek opsianos, 
 signifying to reflect images, because the Chian marble was as hard to cut 
 as volcanic glass, and was used for mirrors. 
 
 The Indians used this glass in making arrow-heads, weapons, and 
 tools. Relics of this sort, which tourists find, seem to be made of the 
 superior quality of Obsidian, which was procured at the cliffs. This cliff is 
 250 ft. in height, and is in vertical columns, pentagonal in form, but more 
 or less irregular. It is the only thing of its kind in the world, and is much 
 visited by geologists. 
 
The Great Falls of the Yellowstone. 
 
 177 
 
 After passing the foaming rapids and fan-like falls of the Virginia 
 Cascades, we reached the Canon Hotel, and a little later started for a walk 
 through the woods. Not knowing exactly where the path was, we thought 
 we could climb down the wooded sides of the canon to the top of the Great 
 Falls. "We did it, but would not advise anyone to repeat the experiment. 
 Clinging from tree to tree, with the fearful abyss beneath us, we slowly 
 slipped downwards until we reached the great rock above the fall, whence 
 
 Fig. 123. The Great Falls of the Yellowstone. 
 
 we could see up and down the canon (Fig. 123). Someone has asked us 
 what we thought as we gazed down this valley for the first time. We did 
 not think — in the presence of its surpassing beauty, every sense seems 
 concentrated in sight. Never in our lives had we seen anything which 
 could at all be compared to it, nor a picture which could in any measure do 
 it justice. It is not alone its enormous depth, nor the fact that no human 
 being has ever descended those precipitous sides ; it is its wonderful and 
 gorgeous colouring, which renders the beholder speechless and spellbound ; 
 800 ft. in height, it rears its jagged towers of pale gold, with here and 
 
 2a 
 
178 Tl\ e Yosemite, Alaska, a,nd the Yellowstone. 
 
 there a turret or boulder of brilliant yellow or vivid scarlet, while the 
 sliding sands are streaks of violet and brown and rose, and at its foot the 
 river rushes in swirling eddies of deep green water lined with foam, 
 while just beneath the Lower Fall were two great snow-banks yet 
 unmelted. Instead of the greens and browns which Nature uses in the 
 painting of her other valleys and canons, she here revels in gorgeous 
 colouring, like the old masters of art. And, as ever, at her highest 
 grandeur and beauty she is inimitable ; of course the most carefully- 
 coloured photographs of this canon are gaudy and unnatural-looking. The 
 whole valley echoes with the sound of the Great Falls ; above us the 
 Upper Fall plunged on the rocks, and rose again almost half its height in 
 shooting towers of foam and floating mists, while just beneath us, the 
 Great or Lower Fall poured its roaring tide over a precipice 360 ft. high. 
 For many years there was no photograph of this greatest fall, except the 
 one from which Fig. 123 was prepared, which was taken from a ledge 
 three-quarters of a mile away. This, of course, does not at all do it justice, 
 and photographers and artists have sought in vain all along the banks for 
 a spot to which they might descend. A friend of the writers', one of 
 the earliest visitors to the park, once made the attempt with a party of 
 eager men. They clung to the rocks, and succeeded in going down a short 
 distance, when, to their horror, they found that the treacherous sand was 
 falling under them. A fearful struggle followed, and after some moments 
 of agony, they gained a secure footing and relinquished the attempt. But 
 the enthusiastic artist, Mr. Haynes, would not be thus daunted, and not 
 long ago he went to the brink of the cliff, and, having been lowered by 
 ropes, actually succeeded in securing a photograph. It is told that when, 
 on the return of the intrepid man, the picture was developed, as the 
 magnificent outlines emerged from the dark glass, the anxious crowd of 
 watchers burst into wild applause. 
 
 The next morning we procured horses and rode through the pine 
 woods, visiting both falls, and keeping as much as possible near to the 
 edge of the cliff. It was a perfect day ; the scent of the pines was 
 delicious, and all along the path were violets, spring beauties, and others 
 of our flowers of early spring. And, indeed, the air was like that of an 
 April day, and beside the road were heaps of snow. In a mossy valley we 
 saw a beautiful little fawn which had just died on the brink of a pool. 
 
 In the afternoon we went again to the Rapids of the Yellowstone, and 
 the Upper Fall, and found it even more beautiful than before ; the sunlight 
 
The tipper Geyser Basin. 179 
 
 glinted through the trees on the wavering mist, and in it quivered the 
 colours of a rainbow. We watched the water roll over the precipice in 
 ragged ropes of foam, until the sun sank behind the cliff, and the floating 
 mist above the arrows of the rising spray, was tinged a soft pale rose. 
 
 On our return we saw buffalo tracks in the mud, and once our horses 
 shied violently ; one, having jumped quite across the road, stood 
 trembling all over. We gazed into the woods on every side, and seeing 
 nothing, said, " It might have been a bear ! " and the stories we heard next 
 morning decidedly confirmed us in this supposition, for, when the writer 
 was mounted on high beside the driver, he at once began : 
 
 " Did you hear what happened last night ? Two of the drivers had to 
 go in the barn to sleep, and as they entered they thought they heard 
 something snorting, and there, in one of the stalls, was a big bear. They 
 ran like mad, and he after 'em. One fellow got out of the yard gate by 
 luck, but 'twas so dark the other couldn't find it, and he was that wild, he 
 just tore down the light plank fence to get away." Our road now lay 
 through the pine woods, and along stretches of plain covered with sage 
 bush and beautiful wild flowers. We passed many boiling springs, and one 
 little geyser shot a fine shower of water into the air. After another lunch 
 in the tents at Norris's, we wound along by the Gibson River, and saw 
 its beautiful white fall spreading over the rocks. 
 
 We now drew near our destination, and were just clattering over a 
 little bridge, when the driver called our attention to a great lump of soda 
 formation on the opposite bank, saying : 
 
 " That is the Riverside." 
 
 " How it hops ! " remarked some one, watching the boiling Avater leap 
 up in the central hole, " Does it always do like that ? " 
 
 " 0, yes, it often " 
 
 " Wait ! Wait ! " we cried. 
 
 He pulled up the horses, and even as we spoke the geyser roared and 
 cast up a thin wavering column of foam. Higher and higher it rose, until 
 it spanned the river with a streaming arch of water. We watched it, 
 speechless, until it became quiet. Who can ever forget the sight of his 
 first geyser ? 
 
 We had now reached the Upper Geyser Basin, a strange and blasted 
 region, crusted with soda, and sprinkled with the mounds of geysers and 
 boiling springs. As we passed the curiously shaped cone of the Bee Hive, 
 the driver again stopped the horses, and exclaimed, " Well, you people are 
 
180 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 in luck !" and in about a minute this geyser also rose nearly 21 ft. high in 
 the air. Across the level beyond we could see our destination, the Paper 
 House. This hotel of the Upper Geyser Basin was burned last year, and 
 a structure, principally composed of laths and brown paper, was erected in 
 haste. This is not the place for a conspiracy to be laid, for almost every 
 sound can be heard in all directions. About half a mile from it we passed 
 the enormous cone of the Castle, one of the largest geysers (Fig. 124). 
 
 Fig. 124. The Castle Geyser Formation, Upper Basix. 
 
 The imposing crater of this geyser is 100 ft. in length by 75 ft. in width, 
 and its column of water is from 30 ft. to 50 ft. in height. Sometimes, 
 when it has husbanded its strength an unusual time, it will cast a jet 100 ft. 
 high. The little indicator at the left of the geyser was leaping at a great 
 rate, and several soldiers and tourists were standing near. We called from 
 the carriage : 
 
 " Is it going off ? " 
 
 " It's twenty -four hours overdue now," was the answer. 
 
 We decided not to wait, however, and walked out upon the glaring 
 
The Castle Geyser. 181 
 
 white waste. Such a scene as this is almost indescribable ; hot water 
 trickled over the crust on every side, great pools surrounded us, into which 
 we could look down incalculable depths into the clear water and see the 
 varied gorgeous shades of blue and green. A particularly lovely one, 
 which is called the Morning Glory, is shaped exactly like that flower, and 
 is of delicate tints of pale amber, brown, and faint pink. One curious 
 geyser, called the Sawmill, was continually making the sound of a saw with 
 two jets of water snapping up and down. It seems unsafe to walk on the 
 white crust with the roar and rumble of turbulent water about and beneath 
 you. We returned to Old Faithful, which is just back of the hotel, at six 
 o'clock, and were in time to see it shoot up a great pillar of steam and 
 foam against the deep blue sky, while the span of a rainbow shone in the 
 showers of its glittering spray. 
 
 Immediately after supper we betook ourselves to the Castle, which had 
 not yet had its eruption, and there remained, fighting mosquitoes, and when 
 they became unendurable, standing where the sulphurous steam blew from 
 some pools. The sunset glory faded from the little fiery clouds blowing 
 across the western sky, and there shone the arc of the new moon, and still 
 we stayed. It was impossible to help personifying the geyser, for it acted 
 like an angry demon. It roared and spluttered, and the explosion seemed 
 imminent. At length we left it reluctantly, and when we rose next 
 morning were told, to our joy, that it was still preparing for the eruption. 
 We waited until noon, when we decided that we must see the prismatic 
 lakes, though we all agreed that " that beast was just mean enough to go 
 off while we were away." As we passed it, jets of water spurted from the 
 crater several feet high, but, as it had done this before, we proceeded. We 
 were looking out of the back of the carriage when clouds of steam 
 appeared over the trees, half a mile away. We turned our horses and 
 galloped them back, reaching the Castle the instant before the eruption. 
 We had hardly arrived, when, with an awful subterranean roar, the geyser 
 cast a pillar of foam and steam 150 ft. into the air. 
 
 We then drove to the Devil's Punch Bowl, the many-coloured forma- 
 tion of which is shaped much like a bowl, and is brimming with boiling 
 water, which ripples over a fathomless hole of cerulean blue. Leaving our 
 carriage, we walked some distance across the white crust to the wonderful 
 prismatic lakes. It is a curious sight, this wide area of boiling water, 
 from which clouds of sulphurous steam ascend, and the exquisite beauty of 
 the blending colours is overwhelming. Each lake is slightly different from 
 
182 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 all the others, but in order that the reader may be better able to picture 
 to himself their appearance, the writers noted exactly the sequence of colour 
 in one. It was pale salmon at the edge, which shaded into brown, thence 
 it glowed to yellow, fading gradually to pure white, while the bubbling 
 centre was deep blue-green. 
 
 Fig. 125. The Grand Geyser. 
 
 On our return to the geyser basin we visited the Grand, and obtained 
 photographs of the cone (Fig. 125), which is a very large one, and also of 
 the water in the cone before eruption, and of the geyser in action. We 
 also saw the Splendid (Fig. 126). 
 
 For the convenience of the reader the following Table of the geysers 
 of this basin is presented : 
 
Tabular Statement of the Geysers. 
 
 183 
 
 Name of Geyser. 
 
 Interval or Period. 
 
 Duration of Eruption. 
 
 Height of Column in Ft. 
 
 1. Old Faithful 
 
 55 to 70 min. 
 
 3 to 5 min. 
 
 100 to 150 
 
 2. Bee Hive 
 
 7 to 25 hours 
 
 3 to 18 min. 
 
 170 to 219 
 
 3. Lioness ... 
 
 Not known 
 
 About 3 min. 
 
 60 
 
 4. Lion ... ... 
 
 do. 
 
 About 5 min. 
 
 75 
 
 5. Giantess 
 
 14 days 
 
 12 hours 
 
 250 
 
 6. Saw Mill 
 
 Very frequent 
 
 lj to 3 hours 
 
 15 to 20 
 
 7. Grand 
 
 16 to 31 hours 
 
 10 to 42 min. 
 
 95 to 200 
 
 8. Turban 
 
 About 15 min. 
 
 15 sec. to 5 min. 
 
 25 
 
 9. Castle 
 
 Once in 48 hours 
 
 30 min. 
 
 100 
 
 10. Giant 
 
 Once in 4 days 
 
 1 i hours to 3 hours 
 
 130 to over 200 
 
 11. Young Faithful 
 
 Very frequent 
 
 
 10 to 30 
 
 12. Oblong 
 
 Once or twice daily 
 
 6 min. 
 
 
 13. Splendid 
 
 About 3 hours 
 
 4 to 10 min. 
 
 200 
 
 14. Grotto 
 
 Several times a day 
 
 Half-hour 
 
 20 to 60 
 
 15. Fan 
 
 Three times daily 
 
 5 to 9 min. 
 
 About 60 
 
 16. Riverside 
 
 Three times daily 
 
 10 to 13 min. 
 
 About 60 
 
 These geysers were once quite regular, but before the Park belonged 
 to the Government, tourists were in the habit of " soaping " them — that 
 is, throwing soap down the crater, in order to produce an eruption. This 
 disturbed the regular action of the geyser, and the Government now 
 prevents it by making it a penal offence, and guarding the geysers. The 
 landlord of the hotel took us to visit his laundry, which is a very 
 novel one, being merely a large tent beside a great boiling spring. We 
 were told that the first person to try this experiment was a Chinaman, who 
 was so unfortunate as to choose a geyser cone then quiet, but not extinct. 
 The result of the soap may be easily imagined. One morning the geyser 
 rose early, and Chinaman, tent, and " washee " were knocked sky high. 
 
 We left the Upper Geyser Basin in the afternoon, and our drive was 
 enlivened by the fording of a swollen stream where the water came up to 
 the bottom of the wagon. We all alighted at the strange tract of land 
 which has been so fittingly named " Hell's Half Acre," and looked into 
 the enormous crater of the Excelsior Geyser. This immense pit of 
 irregular outline is 330 ft. in length and 200 ft. wide at the widest part. 
 This geyser has eruptions every fourth year. The first record of this most 
 powerful of all geysers is as follows : 
 
 " Colonel Norris asserts that he at first heard its spoutings at a point 
 six miles distant, but reached the scene too late to witness them, although 
 he saw the effects of the eruption upon the Firehole Paver, which was so 
 
184 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yelloirstone. 
 
 swollen by the flood as to wash away some bridges over the small streams 
 below. In February, 1880, the Excelsior became frightfully violent in its 
 eruptions, causing the earth to rumble, and filling the valley with dense 
 vapour. The period of action began about 10 p.m., gradually becoming 
 later every night, until on the 1st of July, the eruption took place at 
 10 a.m., showing a loss of 12 hours during nine months. Colonel Norris 
 reported that in the summer of 1880 the power of the eruptions was 
 
 Fig. 126. The Splendid Geyser. 
 
 almost incredible, ' elevating sufficient water to heights of from 100 ft. to 
 300 ft. to render the Firehole River, here nearly 100 yards wide, a foaming 
 torrent of steaming hot water, and hurling rocks of from 1 lb. to 100 lb. 
 in weight, like those from an exploded mine, over surrounding acres.' The 
 Excelsior has increased in activity ever since, giving two or more displays 
 daily, sending out a compact body of water from 60 ft. to 75 ft. in diameter 
 to a height varying from 60 ft. to 300 ft. It is a sufficiently awe-inspiring 
 experience, as the writer can affirm, to stand at the verge of this steaming 
 
The Lower Geyser Formation, 185 
 
 lake, upon the hollow crust which projects over the boiling water, and peer 
 down upon the agitated surface as the clouds of scalding vapour are 
 occasionally lifted by the breeze. But when this geyser is in action, the 
 awful noise and concussion produced by the falling water, accompanied by 
 rumblings and vibrations like those of an earthquake, and the disagreeable 
 habit of vomiting up stones, which is a special characteristic, warrant the 
 visitor m keeping a safe distance away during the display of its terrible 
 power." 
 
 We reached the Lower Geyser Basin in the afternoon, and immedi- 
 ately went upon the white formation, and after passing many little geysers 
 and many black holes, from which the accumulated steam burst from time 
 to time with a dull thud, we climbed a little hill and saw before us the mud 
 geysers which have been so appropriately named the Mammoth Paint Pots 
 This cauldron of bubbling mud measures 40 ft. by 60 ft., and its rim is 
 from 4 ft. to 5 ft. in height. It is filled with a mass of pasty clay, which 
 boils sluggishly, and spits from its bursting bubbles, globular masses cones 
 rings, and jets of mud. Some parts of it are so hard that little paths have 
 been worn upon the baked crust, and it is decidedly startling when you are 
 wak ing by a quiet lump of mud to have it suddenly explode and cast a soft 
 bullet close beside your face. The main basin is white, but the mud puffs 
 or cones scattered about are delicate shades of old rose, and all look exactly 
 like boiling paint. J 
 
 In the evening a party of us assembled on the formation to see the 
 H ountain s eruption, which was momentarily expected. In front of us was 
 a great broad spring, in whose centre were rising bubbles. One of the 
 ladies and a small dog were seated by the edge of this pool looking into its 
 clear sapphire deeps. Suddenly, without any warning, the centre of this 
 lake rose with a fearful roar. The lady fled, and the dog galloped over the 
 formation, yelping with terror. Unlike any other geyser we had seen, this 
 beautiful Fountain rushes into the air, not from a crater, but from the 
 centre of a pool, rising vertically to the height of 60 ft. to 80 ft. in many 
 jets, and with other streams shooting out in all directions 
 
 We returned next day to the Mammoth Hot Springs, whence the 
 tourist may make a days excursion to the wonderful Petrified Forest 
 This is a very paradise for geologists, for the strata contains all sorts of 
 animal and vegetable remains, and all over the slope of the hillside are the 
 great trunks and branches of the trees petrified into clear agate or opalised 
 with the cavities full of quartz and calcite crystals. As you stand in S 
 
 2b 
 
186 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 frozen forest it is easy to fancy you are on the towering mountains of the 
 " Arabian Nights," where the princely seekers for the wonderful bird were 
 turned to stone. 
 
 We reached Cinnabar the next day, just in time to escape a heavy 
 storm. The thunder crashed about us as we hurried from the stages, and 
 as we boarded our train the rain descended suddenly like a sheet of steel. 
 
 Having said farewell to all the wonders of the Yellowstone in a 
 terrific thunderstorm, seemingly an appropriate method of leave-taking, we 
 were soon speeding along our homeward journey. The continued rains had 
 been productive of frequent " washouts," which delayed our progress 
 somewhat, but the various places were so interesting, that delays produced 
 no visible effect on the spirits of the party, and after two days' continuous 
 travel we reached Minneapolis in good order and in proper shape to 
 celebrate the great National Holiday. 
 
 It seems hardly fair to impose on a narrator the delicate task of 
 weighing rival claims, and having, as we hoped, safely balanced Tacoma 
 and Seattle, the writers believed they had steered safely between 
 Scylla and Charybdis ; but these self-congratulations were dispelled at this 
 stage of the journey. Seattle and Tacoma are separated by 35 miles, but 
 Minneapolis and St. Paul are but six miles apart. Admiring, as all 
 Americans must, these four great cities, the writers intend to endeavour to 
 preserve the balance of power in this case as in the former, and should they 
 seem to lean towards either city, it is only by accident in circumstances, 
 and not by any intention. 
 
 We reached the charming city of Minneapolis at 11 a.m. and went at 
 once to our hotel, where our baggage was delivered within an hour. 
 Without making any invidious distinctions, we would like to say right 
 here that we have never stayed at a nicer hotel than at the West 
 House, an excellent picture of which is given in Fig. 127. Coming as we 
 did from a journey of several days, the quiet of this beautiful house seemed 
 to soothe us and put us in a frame of mind to enjoy all the pleasures of this 
 lovely city. At this time the Exposition Building had considerable interest 
 to us, for the great National Republican Convention had just finished its 
 sessions, and renominated as their candidate the present President of the 
 United States. As Minneapolis takes into its city limits Nicollet Island, 
 it is natural that the citizens should seek to construct a first-class bridge for 
 the great amount of travel passing to and fro — and this is not only a fine 
 structure, but is also quite a feature in the landscape. The steel arch is an 
 
Fig. 127. West Hotel, Minneapolis. 
 
 Fig. 128. The Boston Block, Minneapolis. 
 
188 Tiie Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 object of very great beauty. A short distance above the hotel is the 
 building of the Young Men's Christian Association. As education has 
 always kept pace in the United States with the gradual settlement of our 
 outlying districts, so in Minneapolis, although a thoroughly developed city, 
 we find this trait has not been overlooked, and their Public Library is a 
 structure that any city in the world might be proud of. 
 
 The enterprise of the citizens, and their desire to erect beautiful 
 and substantial structures, find, as usual, a response in the General 
 Government, and the United States Post Office is an evidence of the 
 appreciation in which the National Government holds this city. Behind it 
 is probably the finest building in the city, that of the Guaranty Loan. 
 There is a fine restaurant in it, and the whole finish is superb, marble 
 wainscoting being prevalent in every floor. The public are admitted to 
 the roof for a fee of 10 cents, and no one ought to neglect this, for the 
 view is simply delightful, and the vista opened to the spectator is well 
 worth all the trouble. (See Fig. 128.) 
 
 The building is but a short distance from the West House, some three 
 minutes' walk, and a better idea of the city and its environs cannot be had 
 than from this point. Being at-the head of navigation, the lumber interest 
 is one of the most prominent in the city, shipping 343,000,000 ft. in 1890, 
 and, naturally, the building in which this centres would be worthy of it, as 
 the reader may easily judge from the general style of architecture in the 
 city. There are many other fine buildings to be seen— in fact, so many 
 that a selection is quite difficult, but the two shown in Figs. 128 and 129 
 are a fair sample, and as such are offered to the reader, the Masonic Temple 
 being offered to all craftsmen. Although this city and St. Paul are rivals 
 in trade, yet they are connected by a trolley electric railway, and the cars 
 passing in both directions were full to overflowing with the people in 
 transit. 
 
 By a little diplomacy and a detour of a few blocks, our party obtained 
 seats, and were speeding off to the park, some two miles away, on the route 
 shown in Fig. 130. 
 
 This park is a charming place, with lovely walks, beautiful trees, 
 dells and cascades. If it contained nothing else but the sheet of water 
 shown in Fig. 131, it would be famous indeed, for these falls are the ones 
 immortalised by the Poet Laureate of America in " Hiawatha," and we 
 realised, as we stood face to face with them, that this was Minnehaha 
 (Laughing Water). 
 
St. Paul. 
 
 189 
 
 ^ We commenced to feel extremely sentimental, and to reflect in the 
 tram, " As unto the bow the cord is, so unto the man is woman ; though 
 she leads him, she obeys him ; though she draws him, yet she follows," 
 when our sentiments were rudely dispelled by the lozenge-boy's " Pepper- 
 mints andjwinter greens, two for five," and we rushed from our car to be 
 
 Fig. 130. Nicollet Avenue. 
 
 Fig. 129. Globe Block. 
 
 landed at the Hotel Ryan, in St. Paul, in time for a good dinner and plenty 
 of noise as a concomitant, for the city was after a Fourth of July cele- 
 bration, and, when St. Paul starts for a thing, she usually gets there. 
 Ordinary means failed to express the feelings of these enthusiasts, and 
 chlorate of potash was placed in lines on the rails of the street cars. 
 The noise was something stupendous, and although one of the writers 
 served 100 lb. and 200 lb. guns during our " late unpleasantness," he 
 
Fir;. 131. Minnehaha Falls. 
 
 Fin. 132. Minnesota State Capitol. 
 
St. Paul. 
 
 191 
 
 must own to something in excess of the entire concussion of his whole 
 battery. 
 
 But St Paul is a great city, full of enterprise, with many fine 
 buildings, and producing a fine-looking set of citizens. If anyone doubts 
 this, let him look at their book entitled " The Resources of St. Paul." 
 The place was settled in 1838, and in 1841 there was a Jesuit log chapel 
 here. In 1849 it was surveyed, and in 1858 Minnesota was admitted to 
 the Union, and St. Paul became its capital. Following the usual custom 
 of western cities, it commenced to annex the surrounding country, and from 
 
 Fig. 133. High School, St. Paul. 
 
 90 acres in 1849 it grew to 2561 acres in 1854, and thence to 35,482 acres. 
 If Minneapolis had not started up and commenced to develop in the same 
 line, St. Paul might have annexed the balance of the State by this time. 
 The present population is upwards of 80,000. The State Capitol (shown 
 in Pig. 132) is a fine building, located in the centre of the city and of 
 imposing appearance. The city, being largely settled from the east, has 
 given much attention to education, and many fine schools have been 
 established. The High School building seen in Fig. 133 is a structure any 
 city might be proud of ; indeed, there are few towns which can show a finer 
 structure for this purpose. 
 
 After the "glorious Fourth" had passed away and the city assumed 
 its normal condition, we took a drive around it and the suburbs, visiting 
 Bear Lake and other watering-places with which St. Paul is liberally 
 
192 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 provided, for there are 10,000 lakes in the State of Minnesota, which 
 contains the head-waters of the great Mississippi River. Summit-avenue 
 is the fashionable location for the " 400 " ; it overlooks the whole city, and 
 is a most beautiful street, as the reader will readily believe when he looks 
 at Fig. 135, which shows a little of this favoured spot. The thermometer 
 
 Fig. 134. Scene in Minnesota. 
 
 Fig. 135. Summit Avenue. St. Paul. 
 in winter will go to 40 deg. below zero in St Paul, but the inhabitants 
 always tell you the air is so dry they never notice it. Perhaps not, but 
 the narrators don't incline to that idea, as they have tried 20 deg. below and 
 don't like it, dry or not. Theoretically it sounds well, but we remarked 
 the universal use of furs, and think 20 deg. above, preferable every time ; 
 
The Yellowstone Seven Years Ago. 193 
 
 still the St. Paulites look well and seem healthy. We enjoyed our short 
 stay there, and can heartily recommend the Hotel Ryan to anyone who 
 likes good rooms, good meals, and good service. The next night we were 
 speeding to Niagara in the vain endeavour to escape the Christian 
 Endeavour Society. But they were everywhere — in trains and by the 
 wayside ; at all points along the road, and at the stations. Still, our con- 
 ductors managed to arrange our meals satisfactorily, for the name of 
 Raymond and Whitcomb was a power, and, after a day at the Falls, in 
 which the writers visited the tunnel under construction by our old friend Mr. 
 Clement, we took the night train for New York, dodging two or three 
 Christian Endeavour crowds, who were en route to their great meeting at 
 Madison-square Garden. These people are to be commended for their 
 work, and just so long as they stick to it, should be encouraged ; but when 
 they take a sanctimonious attitude and talk about the iniquity of keeping 
 the Columbian Exposition open on Sunday, and propose to stay away, 
 &c, they go too far, and their inconsistency is shown by their patronage 
 of railways which operate Sunday trains, and by their meeting in a garden 
 which always has Sunday concerts on the very spot they use. Still this 
 is neither the time nor the place to discuss theology or morals. We 
 ended at New York the most delightful trip possible, the interest of which 
 lasted from the start till the end of the journey, and separated to our 
 everyday occupations with mutual regrets. 
 
 As a contrast to this recent and most comfortable excursion over the 
 National Park, the story of a visit made by one of the writers seven years 
 before, on the occasion of a summer meeting in the vicinity of the 
 American Society of Engineers, may be introduced here, not only because 
 it describes this wonderful region in greater detail, but also because it will 
 afford some indication ei the change and development that have taken place 
 in a short time. 
 
 After a most delightful reception by the railways of the north-west 
 and an equally delightful convention at Lake Minnetonka, in Minnesota, a 
 number of the Civil Engineers who had just concluded attendance on the 
 meeting, decided to accept the hospitable offer of the Northern Pacific 
 Railway and to visit the Yellowstone Park ; and let all fatalists and 
 superstitious persons generally take note that the party numbered thirteen, 
 and that all are alive at this writing. The outfit was purchased in part at 
 
 2c 
 
194 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 St. Paul, and much amusement was experienced by the purchasers. Being 
 novices at the business we bought everything recommended ; in several 
 instances we purchased too much, and in one instance — one only — too little. 
 This last omission was an important one, it was blankets. A double 
 blanket seemed ample, indeed almost unnecessary, and we were beguiled by 
 some experienced (?) travellers into ideas of how soft the earth was, and 
 how careful we must be not to over-burden ourselves. The writer's army 
 life might have served him a good turn, but for its peculiar phases. First, 
 it was in a warm climate and two blankets then were ample, and next it 
 was principally on the coast and in the sand, which was soft. However, 
 we only took a double blanket each, and many a time the experienced 
 traveller received the benedictions of his frozen and aching friends. For 
 the earth is one of the hardest beds encountered, and if she is the common 
 mother of us all, certainly has a very uncomfortable lap to hold her 
 progeny in. We started from St. Paul on a lovely June day in the most 
 exuberant spirits, each man expecting to bring home a grizzly at least. 
 Equipment is a matter which Englishmen carry into details which astonishes 
 an American, and yet the truth lies between practice of the two nations. 
 We are very apt to hastily prepare ourselves, while an Englishman may 
 insist on carrying his bath tub with him. We passed rapidly through the 
 famous wheatfields of the Red River Valley of Dacotah — the name valley 
 being a misnomer, as it is really a plain and produces 25,000,000 bushels 
 per annum — and marked the peculiarities of construction of the North 
 Pacific Railway. One can never pronounce with certainty on the action of 
 another man's mind, but as engineers it did occur to us that the sinuosities 
 of the railway seemed rather unnecessary on pretty flat lands and not 
 inhabited to any extent ; of course we did not mean to say the liberal land 
 grant of our liberal Government per mile of construction, influenced the 
 location, although when we reached the so-called " Bad Lands " it is true 
 the line seemed more direct. 
 
 Later on the railroad crossed the river and we passed from Morehead, 
 Minnesota, to Fargo, Dacotah. We reached the latter place in the night, 
 and the writer, roused by the stoppage of the train, drew up the curtains 
 of the sleeping berth and saw in this western territory a mast at least 
 200 ft. high, and an electrical installation which is finer than the one in 
 the centre of New York City. On our return trip, passing Fargo in 
 daylight, we inspected it, and could hardly realise that one year before our 
 visit, it had been a railroad town on wheels, and contained only the working 
 
The Bad Lands. 195 
 
 crews of the constructive force of the N. P. Railroad. Now it had a brick 
 hotel many brick stores, an opera house, telephones, electric lights, and all 
 the accessories of modern civilisation, including drinking saloons, gambling 
 houses, &c. 
 
 West of Fargo is one of the richest districts of the north-west, Cass 
 County by name. It has produced 5,000,000 bushels of wheat in a year 
 and all the land is taken up by settlers. At Dalrymple, 18 miles west of 
 Fargo, is the wheat farm of Mr. Oliver Dalrymple, which occupies 117 
 square miles. The train continued to run through wheatfields for hours, 
 and finally we reached Bismarck. 
 
 West of Mandan, we entered the Bad Lands. The first prairie-dog 
 village was sighted here, with this peculiar little animal, resembling a huge 
 rat, seated on its hind legs at the entrance to its burrow. The usual results 
 followed ; the passengers fired shots from their revolvers, and the anima^ 
 escaped unharmed, giving the short, defiant bark from which its name is 
 taken. Although the name " Bad Lands " is given, yet there are flowers 
 to be seen in great profusion, and altogether the country is not un- 
 attractive. The buttes or hills, which rise on all sides, are most peculiar. 
 They resemble huge castles, and might seem to belong to the middle ages. 
 The colours are also most remarkable, being black, blue, and grey. They 
 are evidently of volcanic origin, and formed partly by the action of water 
 upon clay. In some instances they are 300 ft. high. The summits in 
 some cases emit smoke, and this keeps up the illusion of an inhabited 
 castle. As our train went through this section by the light of a beautiful 
 moon, the weird effect was most realistic, and we could almost imagine we 
 heard the tread of the warder, and were in expectancy of a challenge or 
 a shot from some frowning battlement. The clay seems to have been 
 solidified by pressure, and the heat beneath turns it into terra-cotta, while 
 the rain cuts the surface into all sorts of strange shapes. The coal crops 
 out in spots, and is mined for the use of the railroad ; it appears to be 
 of good quality, although containing much sulphur. The name of " Bad 
 Lands " is supposed to have come from a phrase of the French voyageurs 
 who stated the country to consist of terres mauvaises pour traverser- 
 Some miles further west we crossed the Little Missouri river, and from 
 it the station takes its name. 
 
 The Marquis de Mores has established here the head-quarters of an 
 extensive stock-raising enterprise, and is shipping dressed beef to New 
 York City. It is singular how all stock in this country is beef. A stock 
 
196 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 raiser of a few thousand head of beef looks down on a man with ten times 
 the number of sheep. " Nothing but a sheep-raiser " is a term of contempt 
 in Montana. It was in this region, and on some distant buttes, that the 
 eagle eye of a fellow-traveller detected antelope. At first we could see 
 nothing, but by means of a glass we saw what he had pronounced on at 
 a glance by his unassisted but well-trained vision. 
 
 At little Missouri we saw a gathering around the baggage car, and on 
 inquiry from a cowboy were told it was " only a stiff." We found it was a 
 man who had undertaken to "run the town." He and a companion had 
 come in and taken possession of a saloon, and after dispensing liquor freely 
 to a crowd, had started out to shoot the Marquis de Mores. Unfortunately 
 for their success, the Marquis fired too, and the result was the " stiff," who 
 was taken in our train to Billings to be " planted." At Billings, also a 
 growing town (it absolutely grew during the two weeks we were in the 
 Yellowstone Park), attempts at irrigation had been made, and we passed 
 ditches near the railroad, and branching into the prairie for many miles. 
 Finally, about 1 p.m., the party disembarked at Livingstone in good order. 
 Livingstone at that time was the nearest point to the park (being some 66 
 miles distant). A branch road has since been constructed, but at the time 
 we made an entre"e, it was only on paper. We held, at once, a council of 
 war and decided to divide up the work. One party inspected transportation, 
 another arranged for " quarters in the field," and the third was the 
 " commissary of subsistence." In this country all negotiations begin and 
 end with a drink, hence the committee had to be men who could, to use the 
 phraseology of the land, "stand the racket." The head-quarters committee 
 obtained a large tent which had belonged to a Government hospital, and 
 could easily accommodate thirty men. The commissary party were equally 
 successful, and had an abundance of provisions, indeed a superabundance, as 
 we brought back a large quantity, but the transportation committee could 
 only report " progress." In truth, they were so divided in their own minds 
 as to what they wanted, it was little wonder they failed to settle on 
 anything ; moreover, each native had a new method to propose, new advice 
 to give, and new horses to offer. Why, the stories told to this committee 
 would have made old Ananias blush with shame ; he was a tyro to these 
 frontier men, and even if we had heeded one-tenth the advice given us 
 about being cautious in our dealings with this, that, and the other man, we 
 should have been convinced that Livingstone was even worse than the cave 
 in Ali Baba, for that only held forty thieves. At last, after thirteen saddle 
 
The Yellowstone Seven Years Ago. 197 
 
 horses had been engaged and all countermanded, it was decided that each 
 one should get his own horse or horses, leaving the commissary department 
 to arrange for its own teams and methods. Accordingly we divided up into 
 groups, and two of us who had decided to go in the saddle, each secured 
 good Indian ponies, called by the natives " Cayeuses " (Ky-use). Two 
 other saddle horses were obtained as a change for the balance of the party ; 
 but they decided to go in wagons and on buckboards, while the provisions 
 and the tent went in two army wagons. These arrangements occupied the 
 balance of the day, and we retired, prepared to start at daybreak. That is, 
 we were prepared in our minds to start at this time ; however, a preparation 
 is not always an accomplishment, for the teamsters and the cook, and 
 horses, and one thing after another, and the farewell drinks, and the 
 sobering up of the guide, &c, prolonged matters till 8 a.m.; in fact, it took 
 nearly one hour to properly swear the teams into their respective wagons. 
 The teams, it must be understood, were not " sworn in " as the United 
 States swears in its soldiers ; it was a much more cursory method. The 
 writer and his friend, who were the only two properly mounted, rode on in 
 advance. Livingstone stands on a plain, and some six miles distance the 
 gorge commences, through which we wound for some distance. In passing 
 through this gate of the hills the road winds along the Yellowstone River, 
 and on the opposite side appears Bear Gulch. The air was so pure it 
 seemed but a mile off to the hills which formed the entrance to this gorge, 
 and after riding for two miles it seemed just as far off. This rarity of the 
 atmosphere is a remarkable phenomenon, and causes many amusing 
 mistakes. It is said that an Englishman started to take a "bit of a 
 constitutional " before breakfast, intending to go to the foot of a hill he 
 thought about three miles off, and was found in the afternoon, having 
 walked over 15 miles without reaching it, trying to jump over a brook 
 about 1 ft. wide ; he explained this peculiar action by saying he had been 
 so deceived by the distance of the mountain, that he was ready to believe 
 this brook was 10 ft. wide instead of one. In due time we also reached a 
 brook, and found a wagon had conveniently broken down and broken the 
 bridge also. The writer was told by some men who were trying to unload 
 the wagon, that the ford above was " all right." He saw a twinkle in 
 their eyes, and knew they had set him down for a " tender-foot," so he 
 took the precaution to cross his legs over the horse's neck, and it was well 
 he did, for the water came up to the saddle. One of the wagons had to 
 stop here, and a man was sent back for another team ; finally another 
 
198 
 
 77?^ Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 wagon was procured, and all crossed at last by doubling the teams on the 
 wagons. Beyond this brook was a wood, and here was a tent ; at its 
 entrance were two barrels supporting a rough board on which were a 
 greasy pack of cards and a dice-box. Outside, marked on the side of the 
 tent, was seen a " fiery untamed steed " on his hind legs pawing the air. 
 This is a conventional sign, and means that in that place the celebrated 
 game of " stud-horse poker " is played. The proprietor came out in a 
 
 Fig. 136. The Yellowstone from the First Canon'. 
 
 pretty tough-looking suit, wearing a much tougher-looking visage, and 
 said he would " shout," and after going through the formula of asking 
 each man what he would drink, announced he only had whisky, of the 
 40 rod character. 
 
 The writer here met with an episode, if the lady will permit herself 
 to be so called. While at this place along came a lady from Helena, 
 Montana, escorted by the son of a liveiy stable keeper in Livingstone as 
 a guide. She had resolved to "do" Yellowstone Park, and having been 
 
The Yellowstone Seven Years Ago. 199 
 
 disappointed in her party, and having a limited vacation, being in charge 
 of a young ladies' school, she had started alone. She was a typical 
 Western although born in the East, was a good rider so far as sitting 
 well in the saddle was concerned. Her "staying powers" proved later 
 to be an uncertain quantity. The lady wore rather a coquettish costume, 
 and had a revolver strapped around her waist. She declined the invitation 
 of the country to " light and brace up," and rode on with her escort. 
 
 The writer concluded not to wait for the wagons to come up, and rode 
 on later, and being well-mounted, soon overhauled the two, when racing 
 was proposed and kept up at intervals till we came to a ranche where we 
 were to dine. Although it was June still the day had not been over 
 warm, but the sun had blazed on us for two hours previous, and we 
 were glad to alight. 
 
 After dining on ham and eggs, the lady and the guide got up a pistol 
 match ; your correspondent saw them shoot one round and promptly 
 declined their invitation to come in. The lady put five bullets into a space 
 about 3 in. square at the distance of 200 ft. The guide put in one or two. 
 When I shoot I want a fair-sized target, a grizzly bear or two, but I want 
 him to wait where he is while I reload, as it always takes at least one 
 round to get my hand in. 
 
 Our country is a curious mixture of everything. Here, in this little 
 house by the roadside on the border of civilisation, we found a parlour 
 organ, and it served to pass several hours, as we had to wait till the cool of 
 the day. One party passed while we were there, and they looked forlorn 
 enough. We advised them to wait and cool off, but in their self-will and 
 pride they declined, and we afterwards passed them still forlorn some live 
 miles distant going at a snail's pace. We started about 3 p.m., just as the 
 sun was slanting a little, and, riding alongside the river, arrived at another 
 ranche about 7.30. Our party came in about nine. If there is one thing 
 more aggravating than another, it is to come in hot and tired and to see 
 people sitting comfortably in the shade nicely cooled off and well-fed. 
 Opposite this ranche, known as Fridley's, Emigrant Peak may be seen. 
 
 The next morning we started in fine spirits ; the Helena lady got into 
 her saddle with a jaunty air and started off with her guide. We followed 
 more leisurely, and got our teams and baggage into shape, which took 
 time. 
 
 About a mile out we met the guide coming back leading the horse 
 with the side-saddle. All hands clustered round to hear of a mishap 
 
200 
 
 Tlie Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yelloiv&tone. 
 
 perchance. But no, that reckless racing of the previous day had proved 
 too much for the lady ; she declared she would ride no more, and arranged 
 to go the balance of the trip on a buckboard. Then they laid all the blame 
 on the broad shoulders of this innocent writer. This little incident was 
 soon forgotten in the beautiful scenery we passed through. The road 
 wound along the banks of the Yellowstone Eiver, which was broad and 
 swift, while on the opposite side a range of peaks lifted their heads 
 crowned with snow into the bluest of blue skies. The variations in 
 
 Fig. 137. Cinnabar Cliffs near the Yellowstone. 
 
 temperature are remarkable, and it requires care on the part of the tourist 
 to avoid bodily discomfort. In the early morn it is very cool, but after 
 10 a.m. it becomes scorching hot, and if the tourist is wise he will avoid 
 riding between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. In evening it is again cool and the 
 twilight lasts at this season late into the night. The writer and his 
 companion had ridden on in advance of the party for the purpose of having 
 his horse shod. He had cast three shoes, and the fourth was in bad shape. 
 It was no easy task to find any one, but after one or two attempts, at a 
 
Yankee Jim. 201 
 
 Government forge belonging to the U.S. Engineers, a man was found who 
 would undertake it. While we were still on this errand we overtook two 
 men on horseback. Fastened to their saddles were blankets and camp 
 utensils ; at each of their saddle bows was a Winchester rifle, and each 
 man wore a large-brimmed hat with a leather band around the crown. 
 One merited a particular description, since we saw a great deal of him 
 afterwards. 
 
 He had a red, sun-burned face, his hair was cut close to his head, 
 his face was badly scratched and one eye was black. He had a fine 
 physique and a pleasant expression to his face, despite its disfigured 
 appearance. We learned subsequently he had run against another man's 
 fist the night before, but had laid out his man later in the fight. He had 
 on a leather vest, fancy hunting shirt, and leather trousers fringed at the 
 side. He had no coat, but around his waist was a belt full of cartridges for 
 his Winchester, which was within easy reach, and he had a heavy breech- 
 loader revolver and a hunting-knife in his belt. He was mounted on a 
 cayeuse, and his spurs were of the Mexican kind, with a rowel about 2 in. 
 in diameter, with jingles attached to it which tinkled as he rode. 
 
 To use the language of the country we " passed the time of day with 
 them." My companion said afterwards, he was uncertain whether they 
 would return our greeting or fire a bullet at us. Fortunately for us they 
 chose the former method, and we passed quietly on, separating to go on 
 the horse- shoeing business a few miles beyond. We now climbed 
 industriously up the side of a pretty respectable hill, and here was offered 
 a sample of the flexibility of the human will in shaping nature to its own 
 ends. A gorge occurs here, shutting the river within narrow limits ; a 
 narrow shelf of land comes out at the foot on one side of the river. 
 
 One " Yankee Jim," with the true instincts of his name, had built 
 directly across the only route a large gate made of hemlock trees ; he 
 claims the right from the United States Government to exact toll, and as 
 he is a good shot and a clever man if not crossed, no one has thus far 
 disputed his claim, or if they have done so none but Yankee Jim knows it 
 or where the disputant is. He has alongside on the right-hand of his 
 toll-gate a bar-room, and on the other side, his dwelling, where he entertains 
 visitors, even keeping them over night if desired. The only route to his 
 house is through his bar-room, although as stated, they are on opposite 
 sides of the road. Still he won't permit any one to go to the house till 
 they have been through the bar-room. He welcomed the party with 
 
 2d 
 
202 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 evident satisfaction, and promptly insisted on " shouting." This, of course, 
 included all the present habitants of his shanty. The true inwardness of 
 this hospitality will appear when the etiquette of the country is considered. 
 It was incumbent on the visitors to " shout " in return, and then as there 
 were six or seven of us to "shout" in sequence — all drinks and cigars 
 being 25 cents each — Yankee Jim reaped some 10 dols. before dinner. 
 
 While waiting for this important meal to be prepared, our two 
 friends before described rode up and were greeted by the host as old 
 acquaintances. They "shouted," and then "shouting" was renewed all 
 along the line. 
 
 At last dinner was ready, and while not elegantly served, it was very 
 sustaining, quantity being the desideratum. To use a Westernism, " It 
 was fillin' for the price." We rode till late that night, and then made our 
 first camp. Not being experts, and not having engaged a guide, we chose 
 a spot convenient to a pleasant stream of water. It afterwards proved to 
 be equally convenient to a patch of prickly pear, a species of wild cactus, 
 and we remembered this camp for days afterwards — indeed, it is not at all 
 improbable that samples of the prickles are yet in various members of the 
 party. We were all tired, but each one cheerfully went to work making 
 tent-pegs, and we soon had the satisfaction of raising our canvas roof. 
 After a meal of ham and bread and a cup of good coffee, each man filled 
 his pipe and rolled into his blanket. Was ever ground so hard ? It 
 really seemed as if it had been baked into clay or some semi-rocky 
 formation. It was altogether too bony for "Mother Earth's" lap, and 
 it must have been her spine. We had, after twisting and turning, 
 gradually relapsed into a semi-somnolent state when we were all roused 
 by the trampling of horses and a shout, from the lungs this time ; the 
 writer ran out in his stocking feet and into some prickly pears. What he 
 said was unnecessary, although quite emphatic. We found our two friends 
 again, and pressed them to "light and shout." They came into our tent, 
 and made themselves very agreeable for an hour, but declined to sleep 
 under its shelter because they preferred the open air. Their " outfit " was 
 quite complete, for they had four or five blankets each, and did not find the 
 ground so hard. Just before withdrawing, the principal one whispered to 
 me that if I and my companion would get up early, he would pilot us to 
 Mammoth Springs ahead of the party and show us around. His offer 
 was accepted, and we got under way the next morning by 5 a.m. We first 
 interviewed a guide, my companion and myself having made up our minds 
 
A Montana Guide. 
 
 203 
 
 to " have our head-quarters in the saddle," and leave the balance of the 
 party, who were loaded down with camp impedimenta. This guide was a 
 typical Montana man, and we were pleased with his quiet ways and soft 
 accents. He invariably spoke with the rising inflection, and had a most 
 musical voice. We learned afterwards he was very much dreaded among 
 the lawless element, and had shot some sixteen men already, and yet " it 
 seemed as though butter wouldn't melt in his mouth." It is with 
 trembling hand these words are penned, for if he obtained an idea they 
 meant any disrespect, it is quite probable that he may think it worth while 
 
 Fig. 138. Jupiter Terrace. 
 
 to travel to. New York and interview the writer. As our wayside 
 friend explained to us, this guide always shot first and enquired after- 
 wards. He had to go to court — not a lady, but a judge — and we failed to 
 get him. We have no doubt, however, that court was properly 
 administered, for we have not heard of any Montana judge being shot 
 lately. After this interview, with the usual introduction and usual adieu, 
 we rode off in the grey morning on our route to Mammoth Hot Springs. 
 
204 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 We passed Cinnabar Mountain and the Devil's Slide. If his satanic 
 majesty did slide here, he is extremely thin-skinned, and that is contrary 
 to popular belief, as the face of this hill has a red streak where the blood 
 flowed freely. Our wayside friend insisted we must stop at Gardiner City, 
 and we agreed and rode on, looking for the City Hall, as the proper place 
 to disembark, if one can use the term in regard to a horse. We fully 
 expected to be received by the mayor, board of aldermen, &c. We found, 
 however, they were very much like Mr. Gilbert's Pooh Bah, they were 
 all concentrated into one individual, and so we compromised and agreed to 
 be received by him ; he was in his shirt sleeves to distinguish him from 
 many others who had no shirts ; and was the physician in ordinary, in 
 other words he kept a drug store " in all that the name implies." We 
 learned afterwards he had acquired the art of Esculapius from service in 
 the New York police force, which is said to be the finest in the world. 
 The stock was fastened to the counter for fear of accident, and might 
 have been carried under one arm. The counter was " on trestles," to use 
 an engineering phrase, and the floor was sanded, indeed, it was sanded by 
 nature and well done ; probably the sand extended some feet, at all events 
 it was ankle deep. The doctor promptly carried us behind the drug store, 
 and then we saw the uses of the drug business. Some one said the uses 
 of adversity were sweet, but so are those of a drug store in Gardiner Cit}\ 
 We were offered chairs (boxes) and requested to "shout." It being early 
 and our throats full of cobwebs, we " shouted " and then naturally smoked 
 and "made the rounds." It might be said that Gardiner City was entirely 
 a city of tents, although its inhabitants were not like the Rechabites in 
 any other respects. Indeed Gardiner City did not wish to be anything 
 but tents just then, and the decision was a wise one, as the boundary line 
 of the Yellowstone Park was at that time in process of settlement, and it 
 was subsequently moved about three or four miles and Gardiner City was 
 set back just that distance ; not at all a difficult matter, but one that might 
 have proved so had the town been more permanent in its character. A 
 short ride brought the party to the Mammoth Springs, and here an 
 illustration occurred of the confidence the natives have either in their 
 ability to right themselves in case of betrayed trust, or else their great 
 trust in human nature. 
 
 On the way one of the party dropped his rifle and broke the stock 
 badly. When we came to Yankee Jim's, that worthy loaned our friend a 
 fine heavy breechloading revolver, and when he was joked with the fact 
 
A Natural Bath Tub. 205 
 
 that he would never see his revolver again, he said he knew a man when he 
 saw him. Here again at Mammoth Springs the same trust was shown. 
 We had been advised to leave all our money and valuables behind us, and 
 the writer had but a few dollars and a draft on a bank. Some man he was 
 introduced to offered to cash this draft, which was nearly 100 dols., and did 
 so. Our wayside friend took us up the various terraces formed by the 
 
 Fig. 139. A Basin Formation. 
 
 overflowing of the hot water and the deposition of the soda held in solution 
 until mound after mound has arisen. In many cases the deposits form 
 natural bath tubs of hot water. The bath-houses were primitive, being 
 made of rough plank, and the method of ascertaining if they were vacant 
 was equally primitive ; you simply looked in, and if there was no occupant 
 it was yours till you wanted to get out. Our friend looked upon these 
 adjuncts of pressing civilisation with scorn and said he could show us 
 natural bath tubs far better. So we climbed the third terrace, the white 
 glistening soda being more trying to the eyes than snow, and finally found 
 
206 Tlie Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 a natural formation just long enough for a man to lie down in. The sensa- 
 tion was most delightful. The water was quite hot enough to be soothing, 
 and the natural tendency would have been to go to sleep, but there was only 
 one tub there, and while the last man could have been granted this 
 privilege, the others could not, and we passed a very pleasant hour in 
 bathing and arranging matters of importance. These springs are said to be 
 highly beneficial for inflammatory rheumatism, the waters being saturated 
 with various mineral substances, and our verdict was that this is very pro- 
 bably true, since various sorenesses and chafings due to over 66 miles riding 
 seemed to leave us as by magic. We all felt renewed, in a word were new 
 men, and the new men were thirsty, so went to the nearest shanty and 
 " shouted." Then our wayside friend was kind enough to give us his 
 opinion of us, and further to regret our inability to get a suitable guide, 
 and finally to tell us that if we would go into the park by the Gardiner 
 River route, it was quite possible he could arrange matters so as to go with 
 us. It is certain we decided this point instanter, and he then arranged that 
 we should leave as soon as our " outfit " came up, and if we failed to secure 
 him, he promised to find some one who would take us over Mount Wash- 
 burn, and by waiting till our party came from the opposite direction, we 
 could return with them. The point of this is, that the Yellowstone Park 
 is a rectangle 65 miles by 55 — a good idea of it may be obtained by study- 
 ing the map — and Mount Washburn, which is on one side rising 11,000 ft. 
 above the sea level, is impassable except on horseback. Our party, or to 
 use the vernacular, " our outfit," having teams, could only go around two 
 sides of the rectangle to the foot of Mount Washburn and then return by 
 the same route, . but we proposed to enter the park from the other side 
 crossing Mount Washburn, and continuing on the route which had brought 
 them to its foot. It may be said here, that the Gardiner River route is 
 one of the most beautiful and grand portions of this park. The canons 
 are deep and the country is very much broken. The views are superb, and 
 the water abundant in every direction. We took a farewell look at the 
 Mammoth Springs, not forgetting the Liberty Cap, in which the heart of 
 all true Americans should delight. This curious formation was originally a 
 geyser, and by constant eruptions and building up from sediment has risen 
 to the height of 52 ft. The resemblance at a distance to a liberty cap is 
 really quite effective and distinct. If there had only been a " spread eagle " 
 somewhere around, patriotism would have overflowed like the waters of the 
 Mammoth Springs. Or if there had only been something that looked like 
 
Strange Formations. 
 
 207 
 
 an eagle, but there was nothing of the sort, the Bird of Freedom either 
 thought it was too hot for him there, or else he was extinguished by the 
 Liberty Cap. 
 
 At a little distance from the hotel is a most curious formation known 
 as Hymen's Terrace (see Fig. 141). Although at first glance the figures 
 seem to be walking on ice, yet the support under their feet is anything but 
 cool. In fact, the water is quite hot, and it trickles along from the bubbling 
 hot springs, and by depositing sediment it is gradually raising a formation 
 
 Fig. 140. The Cap of Liberty. 
 
 similar to the terraces at the Mammoth Springs. We left the Mammoth 
 Springs about 2 p.m., and rode along the road to Clarke's Forks. We could 
 plainly see in the distance on a side hill, the glitter of the falls of the 
 Gardiner River, although ten miles distant. We numbered four, our guide 
 and his friend, and we two engineers. We were all well mounted the 
 writer having the only full-bred Indian pony, dubbed from his former 
 owner, an old chief of the Crow Indians, " Old Crow." His ears were 
 split at the ends, which is the mark of the Crow Indians. The others rode 
 
208 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 half-bred horses, and it was strange to note the difference even in blood. 
 We passed over a prairie-dog town, whose little burrows were thickly put 
 together, and being covered with long grass were perfect pitfalls for any- 
 thing but an Indian pony. He invariably jumped over them and never 
 stumbled, which was more than could be said for any other horse of the 
 expedition. Suddenly our leader called a halt, and the horses stopped 
 instantly. The guide jumped from his saddle, rifle in hand, and took a 
 
 Fig. 141. Hymen's Terrace. 
 
 position very close to the head of Old Crow, and as he sighted along the 
 barrel of his rifle, sitting as I did in the saddle, I looked along it also, but 
 look as I might I saw nothing. I braced myself for the report, not 
 knowing what Old Crow would do, but beyond a switch of his tail he never 
 budged, but a wild cat did, and gave a leap from a tree at a long distance 
 and fell to the rocks. These hunters seemed to have wonderful eyes, and 
 could see anything and everything within a range which was incomprehen- 
 sible to us " tender-feet." 
 
Mosquitoes. 209 
 
 After three hours' riding and climbing- we came to Gardiner River Falls. 
 This fall is 250 ft. high, making two leaps to the bottom of the chasm. 
 Although small in width it is extremely beautiful, and the rain having 
 been abundant, and the melting snows having swollen the river, it appeared 
 at its best We could have lingered a long time, but were hastened by the 
 thought of the long ride still before us. Up hill and down valley we rode, 
 with walls rising on either side to great heights, till just when we were 
 beginning to think even holidaj'-s had hard work, we saw considerably below 
 us a valley which looked as peaceful and quiet as any poet's imagination 
 could possibly dream of. Near the foot of the slope where we were to 
 descend was a log cabin, and from its stick chimney the smoke was curling. 
 It certainly looked attractive after our hard ride, and the various battles we 
 had been having with the mosquitoes on our journey hither. Alas ! for the 
 fallibility of human predictions, the mosquitoes in the lovely valley exceeded 
 in numbers and ferocity any met in our trips. It was possible they had 
 been kept on short rations of late and saw their opportunity and meant to 
 improve it. A shout at the cabin brought out a tall man with a black 
 beard sprinkled with grey ; his complexion was brown, and he looked very 
 much like some of our enemies in the late war, to wit a " bush whacker." 
 Strange to say he proved to be a Southerner and to have fought in their 
 army, but that was rather a bond of union to the present writer, who had 
 frequently seen his kind in 1862. He was " Uncle John," and as such we 
 welcomed him and his invitation to " light and hitch." Our horses were 
 stripped of saddle and bridle and promptly proceeded to roll over and over 
 in the long grass. A Montana proverb says : "A roll is as good as a feed 
 of oats to a cayeuse." Uncle John proved to be a good cook, and his bread 
 rose at the proper time. He always cooked his meat in the pan he washed 
 his dishes in, which was a true application of the principle of the economy 
 of labour, and we had some antelope for supper which we thoroughly 
 appreciated. Sleeping was difficult owing to the mosquitoes, that came in 
 swarms into the house for the warm fire, but out of doors did not annoy us. 
 Our horses had long lariat ropes attached and draped them while feeding on 
 the rich grass. 
 
 At early dawn three of us started, leaving my companion to hunt 
 with Uncle John till our return in two days. We soon reached 
 Barronett's Bridge, and the keeper being absent we opened the bridge 
 ourselves and proceeded ; the Yellowstone River is extremely deep and 
 gwift at this point, and the rise on the other side up to Specimen Mountain 
 
 2e 
 
210 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yelloiostone. 
 
 is very steep. At about 11 a.m. we reached the East Fork of the 
 Yellowstone River, which is quite broad and rapid ; there is no bridge 
 here, and the river must be crossed in a skiff. The horses were stripped of 
 everything, including bridle and halter, and driven to the edge of the river 
 by long poles, with which the entire party splashed in the water until the 
 horses were off their feet. It needed nothing more, for the stream was 
 running at least ten miles an hour, and the horses struck out for the other 
 shore with all possible effort, and landed about a quarter of a mile below 
 their point of entry. We crossed in a flat-bottomed skiff with saddles, &c. 
 Our ferryman simply kept the boat broadside to the surging waters, and 
 we were rapidly swept down the stream, landing near to the horses. At 
 the top of the bluff an old Missourian met us. He was about 6 ft. 3 in. and 
 bent somewhat with age. He looked like the traditional guerilla of our 
 war, and, strange to say, such he proved to be, having been a member of 
 Quantrell's band, which was one of the worst in the war. We were tolcl 
 he had been obliged to get out to the territories as soon as the war ended. 
 However, one is not particular under the circumstances, and as the writer 
 was to spend the day and night in " Uncle Billy's " cabin, he made up his 
 mind to cultivate Uncle Billy. We had with us the " universal persuader," 
 warranted to suit every man in Montana, and Uncle Billy was not the man 
 to throw good liquor over his shoulder, and, moreover, he was a kindly 
 intentioned man and glad to see us. The writer was left there for the day 
 and night while the other two, the guide and his friend, carried out their 
 original intention of riding to Clark's Forks, some thirty miles distant, 
 then, if our guide so arranged matters, he was to return to Uncle Billy's 
 and we were to go to Uncle John's and pick up my companion and make 
 the trip. If the guide could not return, the writer was to come 
 back to Uncle John's alone, and he and his companion were to go on with 
 him. All the various points of demarcation were carefully impressed on 
 the tourist that he should not fail to find his way back to Uncle John's, 
 and yet it was with a deep sense of loneliness he saw the guide ride off, for 
 though but a two days' acquaintance yet he seemed a link binding us to 
 civilisation. Being very tired, and ready to rest, a bed seemed the best 
 place even at 11 a.m., but the mosquito thought it was also his opportunity, 
 and sleep was impossible. The only thing to do was to get into a draught 
 and build a smudge fire, and sit in the smoke. 
 
 In the afternoon Uncle Billy, feeling that as host he must entertain 
 his guest, proposed to go trout fishing, and also to visit Soda Butte. The 
 
Soda Butte. 
 
 211 
 
 writer lamented the absence of a tine trout-rod, but Uncle Billy said they 
 " had no use for it," as they drove the trout on to the grass. Not wishing 
 to display any ignorance, this was taken as the usual method of angling, but 
 it was food for thought all the way out, and even more food for thought on 
 the return. 
 
 Soda Butte is a mound some 30 ft. high, caused probably by the over- 
 flowing of a hot spring and constant deposit of soda. At the time it was 
 
 Fig. 142. Obsidian Cliffs. 
 
 inactive, but proved to be full of interest, in which respect it resembled 
 certain beds we had slept in. Near by was a wide running stream in which 
 was a beaver colony and dam. Going up this stream a mile — and it was 
 cold and beautifully clear — we came to a lake into which it emptied. A 
 small dam was hastily thrown up across the outlet, and the water speedily 
 spread over a large tract of ground, perhaps two or three acres. The two 
 men then went up the stream with long poles and beat clown towards this 
 dam, and when they had splashed along the bed of the stream and stood 
 in it about knee- deep, still splashing with their poles, the dam was cut and 
 
212 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 the water rapidly fell into the lake, while on the grass lay something over 
 sixty beautiful trout gasping and ready to be cooked. 
 
 On our return to Uncle Billy's cabin, the writer complained bitterly of 
 the mosquitoes, and recourse was again had to the smudge, but Uncle 
 Billy solemnly stated that by 5 p.m. they would depart, and he proved a 
 true prophet, for no sooner had the sun sunk behind the bluff opposite than 
 these disturbers of peace vanished. 
 
 At midnight a trampling of horses' feet proclaimed the return of the 
 guide, who had ridden sixty miles since 11 a.m. The next morning we took 
 leave of Uncle Billy, who seemed like an old friend, and at the ford the 
 ferryman refused to take my money either for himself or for the ferriage, 
 saying that it was Uncle Billy's orders, and if he found that his instructions 
 to this eifect had been violated he would shoot him. On reaching 
 Barronett's Bridge, we again let ourselves across, and had gone a short 
 distance when we heard a hail and saw a man running towards us with a 
 rifle in his hand. The guide said we had better stop, and we found he only 
 wanted to collect the toll for crossing the bridge, and he charged for both 
 ways, because he argued we must have crossed once to get on the side we 
 were, as he knew we came from the springs. It is no use to argue with a 
 man who carries a rifle unless you shoot first, so we paid and went on. The 
 next day we all went hunting and obtained two elk. The meat of this 
 animal is certainly the most delicious ever eaten. It has the flavour of 
 venison, only is much more delicate and tender. On the following day we 
 crossed Mount Washburn on a game trail at an elevation of 10,000 ft. above 
 the sea level. In the pass at the summit was a snow-drift some 20 ft. deep, 
 at the edge of which Old Crow baulked and would not venture till he had 
 thoroughly satisfied himself the crust would bear. Although it was the 
 fourth day of July, yet we enjoyed the novelty of a snowball fight, and thus 
 celebrated 'the birthday of our country. Just before beginning the ascent 
 of Mount Washburn we made a detour to visit Tower Falls. These falls 
 are named from the peculiar buttes which extend along the canon for a 
 little distance above the fall. The water drops perpendicularly about 
 160 ft., and is almost like spray at the bottom. After descending Mount 
 Washburn and riding for a long time we heard a distant rumble, which 
 announced our approach to the Great Falls of the Yellowstone. The 
 excitement was such we could feel our hearts beat loudly, and each one 
 pressed onward at a rapid pace ; but the road required caution, for it was 
 only a trail, but as the writer drew nearer to its roar it seemed as if nothing 
 
Fig. 14:5. Tower Falls. 
 
 Fia Hi. The Upper Falls. 
 
214 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 could restrain his impatience, so, putting sjjurs to Old Crow, he rushed 
 ahead in the direction of the sound and caught a glimpse of the falls 
 through the wood. Dismounting hastily, for it was no longer possible to 
 approach on horseback, these wonderful falls burst upon the view. The 
 picture showing them (see Fig. 145) is taken at a distance of three- 
 fourths of a mile, and from the summit of a rock well-named Point Lookout. 
 The plunge is 364 ft., or about twice that of Niagara. The photograph 
 dwarfs their appearance, which is simply overpowering ; the gazer is 
 absolutely stunned by the sight. The foam and spray rise up at least 
 100 ft. from the bottom, and the wind occasionally lifts it and shows the 
 plunging water at the base. It was possible afterwards to climb down the 
 face of the rocks to the very brink of the precipice and to look down the 
 sheet from the jutting rock squared off in the right-hand side of the picture. 
 An artist friend went some distance up the river and essayed to pole over 
 the stream on a raft. When he reached the centre he found to his horror 
 that the pole would not touch bottom, and that he was slowly and surely 
 floating to the brink. He told the writer that for a moment he seemed to 
 lose all consciousness, and then he revived, and made frantic efforts to reach 
 the shore ; just as the raft commenced to get into the rapids, which are 
 about half a mile up, and from which there would have been no escape, he 
 succeeded in getting a hold on the bottom again and finally in getting 
 ashore. It made one shudder to contemplate the scene even in imagination. 
 The sides of the canon are of varied colours, almost like the solar spectrum, 
 red being the predominant one. Our guide urged us to climb, at once, up 
 the canon, before night set in, that we might have all the next day for the 
 falls, here known as the Lower Falls, and those three-fourths of a mile 
 distant known as the Upper Falls. The path was rough and stony, and 
 after skirting the edge of the canon for over two miles we at last reached 
 a point from whence we had the extended view of the Grand Canon of the 
 Yellowstone (see Figs. 146, 147, and 148). At the point from which 
 this view is taken the canon is 1500 ft. deep, and has a most gloomy 
 and overpowering majesty. The river below seems a mere thread, although 
 it must be quite wide, and is very swift. 
 
 We reached our camp well tired out, and slept soundly in Uncle John's 
 buffalo robes. This was on the night of July 4, and so great was the 
 elevation that the cold was sufficient to freeze stiff the lariat ropes which 
 held our horses. The next morning I had a realising sense of the rarity of 
 the atmosphere, for after climbing down the bank by the camp and taking a 
 
Fig. 145. Point Lookout. 
 
Fig, 146. Grand Canon from Point Lookout. 1 
 
Fig. 147. Thk Grand Canon. 
 
 Fig. 148. Grand Canon. 
 
 2 K 
 
218 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 morning plunge, I essayed to climb up, feeling very much refreshed by the 
 cold water. On scrambling to the top of these rocks I was so exhausted 
 that I threw myself on the ground almost fainting, and was restored by the 
 guide, who came quickly with the " invigorator," and said one must 
 remember that at such an elevation climbing must be more gradually 
 undertaken. After a delightful breakfast on elk, we proceeded to climb 
 down to the brink of the falls, where we sat for hours ; but here we had to 
 part with Uncle John, who had proved a good friend to us, and we really 
 felt sad to see the kind-hearted old man go slowly over the hill, leading 
 behind him the horse which had brought our camp utensils. We did the 
 right thing by him, however, dividing carefully our last ration of "invigora- 
 tor" with him, as we assured him we should meet our party somewhere that 
 day en route for the falls, and as we had left them with five gallons we had 
 no doubt of an abundant supply. With this explanation and assurance on 
 our part, he consented to a stirrup cup, and so we parted, wishing him all 
 speed and no end of good luck. About three-fourths of a mile distant we 
 came upon the Upper Falls, some 260 ft. high, but much wider and far more 
 furious than the Lower Falls. There is a majesty about the Lower Falls 
 the Upper Falls do not possess, although they are very beautiful. Here, 
 too, it is possible to climb to the very edge of the rock and look down on 
 the sheet of water. On leaving these falls, which we did after a few hours, 
 we commenced to descend the mountain rapidly, and shortly after starting 
 came into a violent snowstorm, albeit it was July 5. As we further 
 descended the snow changed to hail, which pelted us furiously, and even 
 the ordinarily immovable Old Crow commenced to show signs of weariness. 
 Our guide finally decided to halt for a few moments, as it was highly 
 important we should save our horses, for we had quite a long journey before 
 us, and having no camp equipage, or even blankets, must reach the lower 
 geysers by night. While resting we ate what is known as jerked elk meat. 
 This is apparently dry, and looks unpalatable, but after a little chewing it 
 seems to acquire, moisture, and really is quite enjoyable if one is hungry 
 enough. Even had it not been so, we had no other choice, although we 
 had some elk meat with us, for there was no shelter, and it would have been 
 impossible to have cooked anything in the storm. Fortunately the hail 
 ceased, giving place to a drizzling rain, which eventually cleared somewhat, 
 when we saw below us Sulphur Mountain. Our guide promptly declared 
 that the specks we saw moving along its base were our " outfit," or, in 
 other words, the companions we had left at Mammoth Springs several days 
 
A Useful Guide. 219 
 
 previously. He even pronounced that one man was riding a white horse, 
 and the sequel proved he was quite correct, although only a good glass 
 revealed to our shorter vision all he could see without any artificial aid. On 
 meeting our friends a halt was made, and the experiences of each party 
 exchanged. Their's was peculiar, novel, and interesting, and merits a 
 description at some length. After we (my companion and myself) had left 
 them at Mammoth Springs, they had endeavoured to obtain a guide, and 
 had experienced some trouble, as a party of "tender-feet" had been around 
 abusing the country, wearing two abominations, a plug hat and a boiled 
 shirt, and demanding all sorts of things of the natives. They had been 
 quieted, however, by a threat from some guide that he would bore them full 
 of holes if they did not "light out," so they "lit." This episode had created 
 a little prejudice against " tender-feet," and our friends were only able to 
 obtain the services of a young fellow, who was no earthly good to them, 
 and who promptly demanded the employment of a night herder, whose duties 
 were to see the horses did not stray away, but who used to sleep soundly in 
 his tent and let the cattle take their chances. In every party each man who 
 is not useful is a terrible nuisance, and the guide and the night herder were 
 no exception. They were alwa t ys going to show the party bears, elk, &c. 
 In one instance they were successful, they did show them a bear. The 
 guide ran across him by accident, and he being one of the curious sort of 
 bears, and of an inquiring disposition, ran after the guide, and followed him 
 up to the camp, and then seeing the party, fled without giving them a shot. 
 The guide was an ingenious sort of chap, and being rather mortified at his 
 fright, undertook to explain it by saying it was simply a part of his plan to 
 lure the bear to the camp, so that the hunters could get a shot at him. 
 This did not increase the respect of the party or their teamsters for the 
 courage of the guide, and the next day they had a further chance to lament 
 his want of pluck. When the party left St. Paul, six small kegs each con- 
 taining a gallon of Old Crow (not horse-flesh, but rye whisky) had been 
 procured as a precaution against snake bites, not that we had seen any 
 snakes, but " an ounce of precaution is worth a pound of cure," and so by 
 analogy a gallon of Old Crow is worth, well, almost anything poisonous in 
 the Yellowstone. When we left our friends at the Mammoth Springs, I 
 had suggested we should take a keg on our saddle, but was overruled, and 
 we only filled our flasks. When our friends reached the geysers, they went 
 out to view these great wonders, and left the camp in charge of the team- 
 sters. It was the fourth day of July, and that in America is "the day we 
 
220 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 celebrate," so the whole party, guide, teamsters, cook, night herder and all, 
 proceeded to till up. Finally, some old matter was recalled, which had 
 occurred years before in some past time, between the ancestors of the cook 
 and those of one of the teamsters, at least our friends believed it was some 
 ancestral feud, because each one reviled the other's progenitors. At last 
 the cook naturally flew to a knife and the teamster to a hatchet. Fortu- 
 nately, each man was so drunk he could not hurt the other, and the fight 
 degenerated into tearing each other's clothes ; the cook seemed to be the 
 most expert, for he stripped the teamster to one garment. The party of 
 tourists were well armed, but seemed to forget this fact, and stood by in 
 great anxiety. On hearing this story, the writer very naturally thought 
 their anxiety arose from the danger each contestant stood in from his an- 
 tagonist, but my informant told me he did not care much for that, as the 
 death of either in itself would have been a small loss. " But," said he, 
 "there was our cook, the man we depended on to feed us, in bodily peril. 
 If he had been killed or disabled what would we have done for our living?" 
 So human nature is selfish and always brings everything to a personal issue. 
 The men were, however, readily separated, and when so parted showed at 
 once their appreciation of the national motto, " Divided we fall," for they 
 fell down and were ignominiously bundled into their tents, where they slept 
 off their drunken fever, and were afterwards good friends all the rest of the 
 trip. However, our friends decided not to put themselves in any further 
 peril of this kind, and so instead of guarding against the evil by guarding 
 the source of it, they took axes and smashed in the heads of the kegs, 
 baptizing the sand in the geyser region with the spiritual comfort provided 
 for man. 
 
 This tale was related to us at Sulphur Mountain and affected us as a 
 new saddle does a sore-backed steed, for when we saw our friends, we had 
 fondly anticipated the warmth of Old Crow, after our chilling ride of fifteen 
 miles that morning. All was in vain ; so we sadly went on our way, and as 
 Bunyan says, " We saw them no more." For we were to go on to the 
 geysers and they to the Great Falls, and as we continued our trip back to 
 the Mammoth Springs while they had to double back from the falls, we 
 should be several days ahead of them. 
 
 It now set in to rain very hard, and as the writer had 
 providentially or otherwise lost his rubber coat the day before, so it bid 
 fair to be a bad trip. We rode some 15 miles through a pitiless storm, 
 even Old Crow (the horse this time and from this on) looking very much 
 
A Wayside Inn. 221 
 
 discouraged. The region was a gloomy one, being volcanic in its character, 
 and what shrubbery there might have been was actually blasted as though 
 by fire. We passed forests of trees all shrivelled and blackened, and groves 
 of small trees leafless and bare. It looked extremely like some of 
 Dore's illustrations in Dante. At last we saw way beyond us, probably 
 five miles distant across a plain, a log house, and our tired horses were 
 urged towards it. The writer reached it first, and with difficulty dis- 
 mounted, he seeming to be almost part of the saddle, and a very stiff 
 part too. Inside was a roaring fire in a huge stove, which took a log 
 some 3 ft. long, and it was full and red hot. The proprietor afterwards 
 explained that he had seen us with a gla«s when we had first struck the 
 plain and knew we were "tender-feet," and expected us there. He looked 
 to be a good-natured man, but was in no sense cordial and never expressed 
 any interest in us or our plans. He proved subsequently to be most 
 genial, and we were loth to leave ; his at first repellant manners were 
 explained on the ground he had also been visited by the " dude " party, 
 who had been so disagreeable at Mammoth Springs, and he thought we 
 were some more of them. There was little in our party to suggest a dude. 
 We wore the flannel shirt and felt hat of the country, and we were wet 
 through and generally forlorn. We asked if he had any spirits, and 
 explained the reason of our shortness of this important article. Then he 
 seemed to wake up, but not on our account. " Great heavens ! " said he, 
 learning of the geyser episode and the loss of the liquor, " what a waste, 
 what a waste ; six gallons you said, O Lord ! O Lord ! " This did not, 
 however, warm or cheer us, but the frontiersmen take time, and this was 
 not our first experience with them, so we waited and shivered. Presently 
 he brought in a stone jug corked (?) with a corn-cob and placed it on the 
 table. The writer seized a tin cup and took a liberal amount. Havino- 
 lived on the borders of civilisation at various times, he was not unfamiliar 
 with all sorts of fluids of a strong nature. But this fellow was a giant. 
 He felt as if he had swallowed a torch-light procession, for it not only 
 burned all the way down but thereafter, and the tears flowed freely down 
 his cheeks. It had the desired result, however, and started up the chilled 
 blood. When we learned that the concoction was composed of brandy and 
 gin in equal parts we did not wonder at its effect on the lining of the 
 throat. It was here we enjoyed another refreshing hot bath from the 
 water of a small boiling spring. It was arranged so that it could be 
 turned into a tub, and there was a large barrel of cold water convenient 
 
222 
 
 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 to temper it with, for it was boiling hot. The next morning our host 
 insisted in hitching- up his double team and talcing us around. He declared 
 our horses needed rest, and that he wanted to "stand treat." He was a 
 thorough man, and we liked him extremely. First he showed us the Paint 
 Pots. These are mud geysers, and boil up mud of the most brilliant 
 colours and varied hues. We then proceeded to the geysers, and their 
 number may be conceived when in a square mile fifty are located, and the 
 height to which they throw the streams of boiling water, is from 50 ft. to 
 
 Fig. 149. The "Paint Pots." 
 
 250 ft. The strangest feature of the whole is the fact that geysers adjacent 
 to each other, have different intervals. The first one we saw was the 
 Grand. This was not in operation just then, but was steaming, and might 
 go off any time within the next feAV hours. Its stream is nearly 300 ft. 
 high, and measures 6 ft. in diameter. We then passed the Grotto Geyser, 
 which is nearly opposite, and where the formation by deposit has covered 
 up the outlet, and afterwards came to the Splendid. Several men' [were 
 here awaiting its eruption, and one of them told us he bad thrown a pair 
 
Geysers. 
 
 223 
 
 of heavy*army trousers into the geyser, but they had sunk out of sight. 
 This geyser was boiling furiously, and at intervals would throw up a spurt 
 of water and steam about 10 ft. to 15 ft. It was evidently near its 
 eruption. Each spurt came at a shorter interval, and finally there was a 
 terrific roar, and the geyser burst into activity. The stream continued 
 to keep at a maximum elevation for several minutes, the trousers rising 
 to the top of the column, and looking very much like a truncated man, 
 or rather a man sans trunk ; their owner uttered an exclamation of delight, 
 
 Fig. 150. The Grotto Geyser Cone ; Upper Basin. 
 
 and declared they had been well washed, and had no doubt they had crone 
 to the antipodes. The Giant Geyser was also boiling full, but it did not 
 go off till some hours afterwards ; this stream, although large and powerful, 
 rises only to about 150 ft. All these geysers after eruption fall gradually 
 till they become simply a boiling spring, and the water flows over their 
 edge and streams away in a hot rivulet. Comet Geyser is also a very 
 beautiful one, and is large, although not so high as some. Several pictures 
 of these phenomena are given on the following pages. The formation 
 
Fig. 151. The Giamt (Jeysei;. 
 
Fig. 152. Castle Geyser. 
 
 Fig. 153. Comet Geyser. 
 
 2g 
 
226 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 of Castle Geyser is peculiar, and is evidently caused by deposit of the 
 sediment, which soon becomes hard. The writer picked up a soft piece, 
 and before two days it had become quite hard, although at first it was 
 almost like clay, and had to be dried on a piece of board to keep its shape. 
 And now we come to one of the largest and most peculiar 'of the geysers, 
 viz., " Old Faithful," so called from the fact that it has the most regular 
 interval of any geyser. It comes into eruption at intervals of from 55 
 minutes to an hour. It stands on the summit of a small hill and can 
 readily be seen even at a distance. The column thrown is 5 ft. in diameter 
 and rises to a height of 200 ft. The water in the cone is remarkably clear 
 and beautiful, and when it becomes quiet after an eruption, it is possible to 
 look down 50 ft. into its depths, and the colour is of the most beautiful 
 blue ever seen. Indeed, a painting the writer once saw of this cone was 
 so brilliant that no one, unless it was Mr. Ruskin or the late Mr. Turner, 
 would have believed it was anything but an exaggeration of nature. A 
 short distance from Old Faithful is a small mound of an oval shape hence 
 known as the Beehive ; near it is an opening perhaps a few inches in 
 diameter, and distant from the cone about 10 ft. We found two men 
 watching this small opening, which it seems, is an indicator; when the 
 indicator bubbles and spurts, the geyser will go off within half an hour, and 
 the Beehive indicator was hard at work. As it is a remarkably beautiful 
 geyser, and only goes off three times in twenty-four hours, we were anxious 
 to see it, and our patience was rewarded, for it took its full half-hour, and 
 then burst upwards to its full height of some 200 ft. Time fails to describe 
 all the geysers we were fortunate enough to see, but enough has been shown 
 to enable the reader to form a pretty correct idea of the wonders of this 
 region. The next day we visited Fairy Falls, where the water falls over a 
 precipice 250 ft., and comes down in a gentle rain. And now, as time 
 pressed, the two travellers resolved to accomplish what even the old guides 
 said was a feat, and an impossibility for any but a veteran to make any 
 show of success in. We were at this particular time 110 miles from 
 Livingstone, and we told our host we proposed to ride out in two days so 
 as to intercept the train on the Northern Pacific Railroad which passes in 
 the morning. This was only possible by reaching Livingstone the night 
 previous. Our horses had several days' rest, and had been fed with oats ; 
 there was not much doubt of their ability to do this, but when it came to 
 the endurance of the rider, all the old settlers shook their heads and said no 
 "tender-foot" could do it. For purposes of convenience in sleeping, as we 
 
Fig. 154. Beehive Geyser. 
 
 Fig. 155. Group of Geysers. 
 
228 The Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yelloicstone. 
 
 had no camp equipages, we were obliged to limit the first clay's journey to 
 44 miles. We started, regretting to leave our kind host, and dined at the 
 Falls of the Gibbon, a beautiful sheet of water about 50 ft. in height. We 
 had no special adventure, although the journey was full of interest, and we 
 saw many beautiful streams. We arrived safely at Gardiner City and 
 slept in blankets and in the sawdust. It was soft and comfortable, indeed 
 we could have slept on a pinnacle. The next morning we had to part with 
 our faithful friend and guide, who had been our constant companion for two 
 weeks. We had hard work to make him receive any money for his 
 services, although this had been arranged before, and, finally, when all was 
 fixed, he seemed to feel rather humiliated notwithstanding ; we assured 
 him he had well earned it, and said, " Well, I ought to take it, I suppose, 
 for I am in debt and need it." Next fall he sent the writer a magnificent 
 elk's head with seven prongs, a Rocky Mountain sheep's head and skin, and 
 a silver tip bear cub's skin, which serve to constantly recall his kindness 
 and devotion. We reached Livingstone at 8.30 that night, having ridden 
 66 miles since 5.30, and having rested two hours at Fridley's Ranche to 
 feed our horses and ourselves, and to purchase ordinary beer at 75 cents 
 per bottle. Here the writer thought to indulge in a little political 
 economy ; finding beer to be 25 cents per glass, and calculating a bottle 
 would make four glasses at least, though they are very small, he decided it 
 would be economy to buy a bottle. It proved to hold five glasses, and as 
 neither he nor his companion cared for more than two, the cook, who stood 
 looking in the door, was asked to empty the bottle. He promptly accepted 
 the proposition so far as drinking was concerned, but said he did not like 
 beer and would take whisky, if it was all the same to the gentlemen. 
 It was "all the same" to them, although it demanded an additional 
 quarter. On reaching Livingstone, although 8.30 p.m., it was light enough 
 to read a letter while the writer sat in the saddle, for he felt that to 
 dismount was never to get up again, and this letter demanded an immediate 
 answer by telegraph ; so Old Crow's head was turned towards the telegraph 
 station, at least a quarter of a mile distant, yet such is the endurance of 
 these Indian ponies that he actually galloped over there and back as though 
 he had not just put 66 miles of up and down hill, some of it very steep, 
 behind him. After a good rest we took the train the next morning, and 
 our Yellowstone trip became a thing of the past. In concluding, it must 
 be said that the present facilities for this trip are very different from those 
 described. 
 
Fig. 1 56. " Old Faithful " Geyser. 
 
 Fig. 157. The Falls of the Gibbon. 
 
230 TJie Yosemite, Alaska, and the Yellowstone. 
 
 The railroad runs to the park by a branch from Livingstone, and the 
 tourist can get everything he wants at the Mammoth Springs Hotel, 
 including horses and outfit generally. Moreover, there are several other 
 hotels at convenient intervals through the park, and the roads are good. 
 In other words, civilisation brings all these wonders within easy reach 
 even of Europe and at a moderate price. The North Pacific Railway 
 will take an Englishman at Liverpool, give him five days in the park, and 
 return him to Liverpool in twenty-eight clays. The writer would not 
 advise anyone to take so short a time there, but very much may be 
 accomplished in ten days at the park, especially now the facilities are 
 so great for moving about. It is worth remembering that the trout are 
 good, and bears are to be had for the shooting. 
 
 There is probably no spot in the world offering so many wonderful 
 sights within so small an area. 
 
 // 
 
 Printed at tiie Bedford Press, 20 and 21, Bedfordbury, Strand, Lonlo.v, W.C. 
 
 m 3^ Q