im iXi Cbe ili Science of Shirt Drafting SECOND EDITION From Actual Measurements by the Infallible Skirt Cutting Device Known to the Trade as The Infallible Skirt Rule (!> m i\ m m Proprietor of The Pebfection Tailor System of Dress Cutting, The Ladies' Tailor Jacket and Coat Method, Perfection Shirt Waist System, Etc. AUTHOR AND PROPRIETOR. 1535 MASSACHUSErrs Street, - Lawrence, Kans.vs. The Science of Skirt Draftim SECOHD EDITION From Actual Measurements by The Infallible Skirt Cutting Device Known to the Trade as The Infallible Skirt Rule W. R. WILLIAMS, Proprietor of The Perfection Tailok System of Deess Cutting, The Ladies' Tailor Jacket and Coat Method, Perfection Shirt Waist System, ETC., ETC. AUTHOR AND PROPRIETOR. 1535 Massachusetts Street, Lawrence, Kansas Copyright 1908, by W. R. Williams ^ JUN 5 VdOb 30t*r J. TAHU: OF CONTENTS Ivxplutiationaiul Dcscrijilion Measures used Seven tJore Skirl Flow to Draft Trout (Jore llnw 1(1 Draft First Side Gore il INTRODUCTION. THK IIVFALLIBLE SIvIRT RULE. HIS NEW Skirt System provides a scientific, yet practical device for drafting rt all styles and sizes of skirts by actual measurements, with the measures ^^ necessary reduced to the fewest possible number. Systems for waist and sleeve drafting are numerous, and are really indispensible; for every exper- ienced cutter realizes that a perfect fitting waist and sleeve must have for their foundation a faultless lining. This is likewise true of skirts, for un- less a skirt fits and hangs perfectly, and its several gores are well propor- tioned, its beauty and efi'ect is practically ruined. The Infallible, however, is the only System on the market for cutting skirts exclusively, which pro- vides a perfect outline, with graceful lines and curves at waist, over hips and bottom edge. It is likewise the only device giving the exact width of each gore at tiiese three essential points, a feature which virtually reheves the operator of all proportioning, calculating, or anxiety concerning good fitting and hanging results. Other commendable qualities of this Skirt Rule are that it is easily learned and operated, and remarkably rapid, consuming far less time than patterns. In this issue of our instruction book, we have endeavored to explain every detail of skirt di-af ting, thus making it po; .-ible, if necessary, for a dress maker of limited ex- perience to learn the use of the Riiic without oral instruction. The assistance ren- dered by a competent teacher however will be of great service, which can hardly be es- timated in dollars and cents. The diagrams shown in this book include nearly all the standard shapes, which prac- tically form the basis of all skirt cutting. The moderate cost of this System will be greatly appreciated when compared with the much greater expense of merely learning the art of skirt cutting, by tape line and straight-edge, as taught in the large cities, when no text book, scales giving the exact proportion for gores, curves, or method of any kind is furnished. In conclusion would say, that the Infallible Skirt Rule with this book of instruc- tion offers more valuable information on skirt cutting than all others combined, is the honest judgment and belief of the Author. Explanation and Description THE lnfallil)lf Skirt liule for convcniciue of operation lias been made in one piece, similar in shape to the back norc of a skirt. They arc usually shipped from factory in the form of a roll, but are i)rovi(lc(l with hangers at top edge, with which, wiien not in use, they sliould be hung up near drafting table. MEASURES EACH SEAM »:« The Rule is provided witlian iiicii scale, somewhat resembling a tape measure extending around its entire outer edge. When using the Rule it is placed on the goods or pa|)cr with the front edge directly in front of the operator. The upper edge, corresponding to tlie waist line, will then be to tlie left, the lower edge representing the bottom of skirt to the right; and the far edge corresponding to the back of gore, directly across from front. ^l The use of the several Adjustable Slides and Tointers indicating ADJUSTABLE proper hip curvature, which are located at top and sides of Rule, SLIDES, ETC. will each be explained as wc proceed with the instructions. The large capital letters near center of Rule indicate certain MEANING OF lines and scales used in drafting, to which we shall have occa- LARGE LETTERS sion to refer from time to time. The other words and lines of reading matter on Rule are self explanatory, yet will be more fully explained when drafting the different gores. The several Revised Scales printed on pages 46 to 52 inclusive REVISED SCALES now form a part of this book. Am sure they will be appreciat- AND WHERE FOUND ed by skirt cutters as they show tlic exact width to mark for each gore at waist, hip and bottom edge. Three hands or pointers are printed on each side of Skirt Rule; VARIATIONS IN designated as Stout, Medium and Slender figures, whicii are to CURVE OVER HIPS be placed at the respective dots made at waist line, when draft- ing the side lines over the hip for the different forms. As we shall often refer to those Pointers, Scales, and the different Hip Curves, would advise that the notes explaining them, found on pages 18, 19, 44, be carefully studied. The several dotted lines and perforations near edges and in DOTTED LINES center of Rule, are for giving width of gores at bottom edge, AND PERFORATIONS and producing "sheath fitting effect." The number of working measures employed when using the Infallible are four, Size around Waist,— usually taken tight. Size around Hips, — taken around figure, about 5| inches below waist line. Length in Front, — taken from waist line to floor. Length at Back, — taken from waist line to floor. If a shorter skirt is desired, first take the measures to the floor SHORT SKIRTS, and then deduct from these lengths the number of inches you wish it shortened, or if longer add whatever is necessary. We have found in practice that sometimes one hip is a little lower than the otiier, and occasionally the hips are so large that greater length of skirts over hips become necessary, hence for such, and very stout figures, take two or three additional meas- ures, viz: Length over right hip, — taken from waist line over right hip to floor. Length over left hip, — taken from waist line over left hip to floor. Length at each seam, from waist line to floor, when cutting for very stout ita TEST OR PROOF MEASURES. figures. »•• Seven Gore Skirt •o« Will begin our instructions and practice work by drafting an ordinary Seven Gore ■Skirt, for the following working measures: Size around waist, 24 inches. " " hips, 4I2 " Length in front, ; 40 " Length at back, 42 Examine Revised Scale, page 47, from which the figures on the following slip were Mark for width of ) front gores at waist S . . 2 in 1st SIDE 2NDSIDE BACK SPACE 4|in. . 5|in. 2 in. Make width at hip.. . . 3| M 6iS 7M 4 in. Width, lower edge 9 14J 16J 22 in. . Tlie ScicMcc of Skirt hr.iftin FRONT GORE. To draft front ^'urc for tlii.s sUirl, lirst jjlacc Skirt Kiilc i>n fold of goods, with Top Slide drawn out, which slrainht- cns and coniiilctes front edge of Hide. Now mark at 2 on waist lino of Hide for widlli of front gore at top, and from that point draft waist line from 2 to A on Diagram No.l. -Now mark opposite oA on front edge of Unie to designale point wiiere hip measure is taken from * tiien at -10 on front edge of Uuic, for iengtii in front; then mark through perforation in Scale No. 2 ("Lengtli of front gore at back edge") in 40^ (thus dropi)ing h inch to allow for e.xtra Iengtii over hip) which gives e.xact length of side seam, and ap])ro.\imate width at gore. Now move Rule up till it coincides with dots just made at 40 and 40], and mark at 9 on inch scale at bottom edge of Skirt l{ule, whicli we lind, byieferring to measure slip, is the exact width re- quired at i)ottom edge. Then before removing Rule draft bottom line, from H to C on Diagram. sss Ne.xt draw Skirt Rule down to hip HIP MEASURE. measure outline, and with upper left hand corner resting at ])oint oi (on diagram) dot at the 31 inch mark on inch scale for width of front gore at hip NOTE — *We find in practice that some persons are longer from waist line to hip than others, hence we sometimes measure down 5^ and again fi inches. i>r Diagram No. 1 . incire. but use oi as the standard. Next i)lace Skirl Rule with Pointer designating the Medium Figure (marked "M" in Scales) at the 2 incii mark on waist line, then draft side line from this point to the 3\ inch mark at iiip, and unless the width at bottom edge requires the moving of the Rule in or out, draft the entire side line witii liack edge of Rule from jioints '.i\ to 9 at lower edge, point C on Diagram. SHEATH FITTING EFFECT If Sheath lilting and llaring effect is desired, place Rule back on draft jusl made, w itii ligure 5^ on its back edge resting at the 3\ inch hip mark, and the remainder of back edge jilaced even with back line just drawn. Then mark through the several perforations found just above "M" near back edge of Rule, from 8J down to 28-1, which will produce this effect. The Flare Slide may then be drawn out, and the draft continued by using its back edge to draft with, from 28\ to bottom edge, or D on Diagram, then with lower edge of I'lare Slide draft remainder of bottom line from D to Cwliich completes front gore. The Science of Skirt Drafting. FIRST SIDE GORE, To draft first side gore, place Skirt Rule on paper or goods at least a couple of inches in from front edge to allow for flare, if desired. The Top Slide should now be pushed back to place, as both edges of side gore need to be curved. Now mark at 4| on waist line of Rule for width of this gore at top. The actual width, however, is but 3i inches, as 1 inch is taken off at front edge for curve. For further explanation of this feature, see note at bottom of page 46. Now from the 4i inch mark, draft waist line back to front edge (4* to E on Diagram No. 2.) Now mark opposite 5J on front edge of Rule, ■ at hip measure outline, then mark at 40^ on front edge of Rule for length in front. Then mark through perforations in No. 3 row of perforations (designated as Length of side gores at back edge) in 41, thus lengthening the side seam over hip another half inch, which gives exact length of side line and approximate width of gore. Next move Rule so that WIDTH AND CURVE bottom edge coincides OF LOWER EDGE with dots made at 40i and 41, and make an- other dot at the 14J inch mark, which is the exact width of this gore according to Scale, for plain skirt, but if flare is desired, then add for width of same straight out from the Hi inch mark from "G" to "H" on Diagram. Then after moving Rule toward you until lower right hand corner comes even with dot made at 14i, and lower edge near front rests on dot made at 401, draft bottom line from G to F on Diagram with lower edge of Rule. Now move Rule up until Pointer indicating Medium Figure rests at front edge of waist line (point E on Diagram) as that was the Pointer used when drafting back edge of front gore, and the front edge of this gore should have the same curve. Then draft front line down to mark made at 40i (E to F on Diagram.) Diagram No . 2 . Next draw Skii-t Rule down to Hip Measure outline, and after HIP MEASURE drawing Top Slide out, measure straight out from 5| (on Dia- gram) across gore 6^ inches, for width at liip. Then place Skirt Rule with hand indicating Stout Figure, at the 4| inch mark at waist line, The Science of Skirt Drafting. draft sidr line witli back v(\u.i- of Rule; (irst to the 6} dot at hip, then to the 14} mark at bottom of gore, point (J on Diagram. If Shealh fitting and flaring efl'ect is desired, phice Kule bark on SHEATH FITTING draft witli Figure 5J on its back edge, resting on llie OJ hip EFFECT nieasnrc mark, and the remainder of back edge of Hule coincid- ing witii hne previously drawn. Then proceed to mark through perforations between 8^, and 2H\ on back edge of Rule, then draw Flare Slide out for producing liaring effect (and draft down to 11 on Diagram) as instructed on front gore. We do not show llarc on front edge of these side gores on Diagrams, but the front edge of Rule is also provided with perforations and Flare so that both edges may be flared if desired. Many skirt cutters contend tiiat all side gores for "sheath fitting" and flaring skirts should be the same on both sides, as shown by Diagram 14 on page 32. SECOND SIDE GORE, To draft second side gore. Place Skirt Rule on paper or goods two or tliree inches in from front edge, to allow for flare on front side if desired. The Top Slide should again be pushed back, as botii edges are to be curved. Now mark at 5} on waist line of Rule for width at top and from the 5j inch mark draft waist line back to front edge {5J to I on Diagram No. 3.) Ne.xt mark opposite 5i for hip measure on front edge of Rule, then at 41 for length of gore in front. Then mark tlirough perforations in No. 3, row of perforations (Length of side gore at back edge) in 41 J, which gives exact length of side line, and approximate width at lower edge. Now move Rule up until lower edge coincides with dots made WIDTH AND CURVE at 41 and AU and make another dot at 16i for actual width at OF LOWER EDGE lower edge for plain skirts. If flare is desired add for width straight out from the 16J mark as previously instructed, (K to L in Diagram.) Next move Rule toward you until lower right hand corner rests at the 16^ inch mark, and lower edge coincides with that dot, and the one made at 41 in front, when draft lower edge (K to J on Diagram.) .\ow move Rule up until Pointer indicating Stout Figure rests at dot made at waist line (point I on Diagram) as that was tiie curve given to inside edge of first side gore, then draft front line down to mark made at 41 (I to J on Diagram.) Now draw Rule down to hip measure outline, tiien draw Front HIP MEASURE Slide out, and measure straiglit across 7 inches from 5^ to the 7 mark on Diagram. Next place Medium Pointer at 5^ inch mark on waist line, and draft side seam with back edge of Rule first to the 5| inch mark at iiip, then to the 16} inch mark at lower edge of gore. The Science of Skirt Drafting. To produce this effect, place Rule back on draft with figure 5h SHEATH FITTING, on its back edge resting on 7 liip measure mark, and tlie re- mainder of back edge coinciding with side line clear down to the 16J inch mark. Then proceed to dot tiirough perforations along back edge of Rule as previously instruct- ed, down to 28J point, when Flare Shde should be drawn out and the draft continued to dot made at L in Diagram. If sheath fitting and flare is desu-ed, at front edge, draw out front Flare Slide and proceed as above directed. BACK GORE. To draft back section for seven gore skirt. First place Skirt Rule on material as pre- viously instructed, with Top Slide in, as the front edge of this gore which joins second side gore must likewise be curved. Ne.xt mark at .3 on waist line for width at top, thus making it 2 inches wide, which is the width given in Scale for this size of waist. Next draft waist line from 2 to front edge (2 to M on Diagram No. 4.) Now mark opposite 5J on front edge for hip measm-e, then at 41 1 for length in front. Then mark at^back edge opposite 42, which gives exact length and approximate width of gore at lower edge. Now move Rule up until its lower edge coincides with dot made at 41 i in front and 42 at back, wlien with this edge draft bottom line from 2Z at lower right hand corner to dot made at 4H in front. to N on Diagram. Then move Rule until Pointer indicat- ing Medium Figure rests on front edge of waist hue, at M on Diagram, then draft front line down to 41 J M to N on Diagram. Diagram No . 3 . Next draw Rule down to Hip Measure outline, and with Top HIP MEASURE. Slide drawn out, measure from 5| on front line across gore, the exact width at hip, which in this size is 4 inches, 6 to 4 on Dia- gram. 10 The Science of Skirt Draft iiij:. I'ur a Habit Hai k, take front ccIrc of Kiilc with Top Slide drawn CENTER OF BACK out. and draft a slrait^lit line from 2. at waist down to \ at liip, tlien to the 22 inch mark at lower cdfjc. 2 to O on l)iaj,'rani. For pleats or other ful- ness, add bejond the 2 indi mark on waist line, also at bottom edge, the desired amount as shown by additional lines on Dia- gram. 33C When EXTRA LENGTH using REQUIRED pleats greater lieiglit must be given at top, lience another Slide lias been provided at waist line of Rule, for that pur- pose. So when wishing to draft beyond tlie 2 inch mark, draw tiiis Slide up, and draft a line straigiit out from 2, sufficient in length to cover widtii of pleats from 2 to P on Dia- trram. Tlie eas- TO SHAPE iest and BACK GORE quickest way to ob- ain final shape of this gore at top, and bottom edge, is to fold pleat or pleats as shown in part 2 of this Diagram. Then after tukinj^ a ])niu[ measure from waist band to bottom edge of skirt, trim off at least the uneven points, which always extend above at top, and below at lower edge after pleats are folded back. The dotted lines at top, and from Q to R at bottom edge of part 2, shows the finished shape of the back gore with pleats. Diagram No. 4. Five Gore Skirt To draft a plain Five Gore Skirt for the following measures: Size around waist . . 20 inches. " liips . . 36 inches. Length in front, . 40 inches. Length at back .... 42 inches. Mark for width of |. front gores at waist ' — 1} Make width at hip 2* SI Width lower edge 8 SIDE .ALLOWING D.iRT B.^CK 9h 1 J inches wide. liin 12 J M 3 in 30 22 in Proceed as follows: FRONT GORE. Place Skirt Rule on fold of material with Top Slide drawn out. Now mark at 1§ on Waist Line of Rule, for width at top, and from that mark draft same from 1 J to S on Diagram No. 5. Next mark opposite 5| on front edge of Rule for hip measure, then at 40, on front edge, for length in front. Ne.xt mark through perforations in scale No. 2, in 40^, which gives exact length of side seam, and approximate width of gore. Next move Rule up mitil its lower edge coincides with dots made at 40 and 40^, then mark at 8 on inch scale for exact width, and when Rule is in that position, draft lower edge from the 8-mark to dot made at 40 on front edge, T to U on Diagram. HI Next draw Skirt Rule down to the 5| inch mark on front edge, HIP MEASURE. and measure across gore 3 inches, for width at hip. Now move Rule up until the Pointer indicating Slender Figure (marked SI in scales) rests on waist line at Figure U on Diagram. Then with back edge of Rule draft inside line down to the 3 at hip, then the entire length to dot made at 8. Point T on Diagram. NOTE — In case this edge of Rule, when drafting from Medium or Slender Pointer is not long enough to reach dot at lower edge, draft from waist line a little past hip measure, when Rule may be moved down sufficient to reach it. To draft this side Gore, which is too wide for waist line, on SIDE GORE Rule proper: First, draw the Extension Curve, underneath Rule, out of loop, and fasten it in an extended position by push- ing tlie button (near lower edge) over back of Rule at Star. 12 I'lic Science of Skirt Drafting. Now placf Kiilc in position on material, and mark at 9J| for width of gore at top, then mark at 4i and 5J on waist line llicn in center perforation of dart outline, on Diagram No. s■ Rule f or a dart 1 i inches wide.and 4 inches deep.which places it in about the center of gore. If more desirable, this dart could be located directly over the hip, by taking a measure from center of front to hip, and then applying that measure to inch scale on waist line of Rule. Next mark opposite 5h on front edge, for hip measure, then at 40^ for length in front, then mark peuuration at 41 in No. 3 row of perforations for length in center, and appro.ximate width of § this gore. Now move Rule up until lower edge coincides witii dot made at 40i in front, and 41 in No. 3 row, when another dot should be made at 15, which is just half its width; then'from that dot draft bottom edge from 41 to 40| on Diagram. Ne.xt place Pointer, indicating Slender Figure, on waist line, (point \' in Diagram) and draft front line down tile entire length of front Vto41^. Next draw Front Slide out, and measure straight across gore 12i inches , for width at hip. Now place Extension Curve back in loop, then place upper right corner of Rule at waist line (point W on Diagram) letting the lower front edge rest at the 15 mark. Next dot through perforation in No. 3 Scale again; then move Rule up until lower The Science of Skirt Drafting. 13 edge coincides with the first dot made at 15, and this dot just made; then make another mark at 15 on lower edge of Rule for remainder of the width (15 inches) after which draft bottom line from lower right hand corner (X to 41 on Diagram.) Now place Rule with Medium Pointer resting on waist line at W, and with its back edge draft first to the liip mark at 12|, then down to X on Diagram. Then with upper curved part of front edge, draft back line of dart, and with up- per back edge, draft front line of dart, which completes this gore. BACK GORE. To draft Back Gore: Place Rule on material as previously instructed. Mark at 2 J on waist line Scale (which makes it I5 inches net) for width at top. Then make a mark opposite 5h for hip, and another at 41 J for length. Next mark at 42 on back edge for length there, also approximate width. Then draw Rule up until it coincides with this, and mark made in front, and make another mark at ZZ for width at bottom edge when with lower edge of Rule, draft bottom hne from 42 to Y on Dia- gram. Then with front edge of Rule,with Top Slide out draft back edge from Z to 42. which completes Habit back. If pleats are desired, proceed as instructed on back of Seven Gore Skirt. *.*^ M^ ^M «•> ««S 7S ^\ #«^ tf*^ W. R. Williams & Son. _ _ _ New York City, October 21, '97. I have had excellent success in using your Skirt Sysem and teaching it to others. Think it the most practical skirt cutting device ever invented. Mrs. Ella B. Dart. No. 53, West 140th Street. W. R. Williams & Son. _ Sioux City, Iowa, July 15, 1901. Dear Sir: The New Skirt Cutting Device is certainly the finest thing in its way that has ever been placed before the Dress Making Public. I am more than pleased with it. Miss M. Dkvy, 1006 Pierce Street. Ladies Tailor. W. R. Williams & Son. Norfolk, Neh., July 20, 1903. Am more than pleased with my New Skirt System, purchased of Mrs. Champlin, and find it truly an "INFALLIBLE" device for cutting any and all kinds of skirts. I am using it every day with perfect success. Miss Mary Shelley. W. R. Williams & Son. Hartford, S. Dak., March 13, 1902. My experience with the Infallibfle Skirt Rule has shown me that it is the most practical Skirt Cutting System on the market. Miss Minnie Beals. W. R. Williams & Son. Morristown, Penna., May 5, 1901. I am very much pleased with the Skirt Rule and find it perfectly satisfactory. I have been using it all winter and spring with the best results. 916 AVest Lafayette Street. Miss F. Browne. W. R. Williams & Son. Peoria, III., Feb. 7, 1901. I find the Infallible Skirt Rule the finest device I have yet seen, and can recom- mend it for cutting any size or style of skirt. Eleanor C. Carey. Tn (If.ift lliis Skirt lor llic lollowiti},' nicasiin's: Size aroiitul waist . . 24 inches. Iiips .42inchps. Lciifilli ill front . . .38iiH-lies. Lentjlli at l>adi . . .40 iiulics. First, draw out the l^xteiisioii Curve, and adjust same in an extended position, as previously explained. Diagram No. 6. The Science of Skirt Drafting. 15 Next, place Rule on fold of goods, with Top Slide out, and make a dot at 16J on waist line, for width of half of skirt at waist. If pleats are desired, add beyond the 16| mark the necessary width for same. Then draft waist line from the 16i mark to front edge of Rule. Next, mark at 4 and 6 on waist line for width of first dart, then at 10 and 12J for width of second dart. Then through lower center perforation at bottom of dart outline on Skirt Rule, and at lower edge of Extension Curve directly under outline of dart, for lower points of first and second darts. Next make a mark opposite 5^ on front edge of Rule for Hip Measure. This process saves all calculating in this way. By marking at I65 on waist line (and at other figures for other sizes) then taking out 4^ inches in darts, it leaves just 12 inches, which is J the waist measure. Draft Hip Measure. Next measure across pattern, with Extension Curve, from dot placed at 5§, 21 inches for Hip Measure, and make a dot at back edge. The Extension Curve should then be placed back in loop underneath Rule. NOTE — The several perforations under outline of darts on Rule, and Extension Curve, are for the purpose of placing lower points of darts directly under t-heir centers, as they vary both in width and depth when cutting for dif- ferent sizes. ^l Next mark at 38 on front of Rule for length of Skirt in front, TO MARE FIRST then through perforations at 39, in the row of perforations WIDTH near back edge of Rule where it directs to mark for first width of circular skirt. Notice that we drop a full inch here in- stead of 2, on account of its being wider than an ordinary front gore. This gives the exact length and approximate width of first part. NOTE — We find in' practice that it take= nearly 3 widths of the Skirt Rule, to give sufficient breadth to the bottom edge of an ordinary skirt. Now draw up Rule until bottom edge coincides with dot made through perfor- ation 39, and mark made at 38 in front, and make a dot at 20 on Scale on lower edge of Rule; which gives exact width of first part, then from the 20 mark, draft lower edge from 20 to 38 on Diagram. 5J5 To mark 2nd width, move Rule over until front edge (just above TO MARE FOR hip measure outline) abuts against back edge of first width, and SECOND WIDTH waist line of Rule coincides with waist line of draft, and the lower front edge of Rule rests on the 20 mark on Diagram. Then make another mark at '391 on back edge of Rule for length, and approxi- mate width at bottom edge. Now draw Rule up until its lower edge coincides with dots previously made at 20 and just now made at 39k, then mark at 20 again on lower edge for exact width of second part, after which draft bottom line from second 20 to first 20 on Diagram. Next move Rule over again until its upper right hand corner TO MARE FOR rests at dot made at I65 on waist line, and the back edge THIRD WIDTH. rests at the 21 inch Hip Mark. Then mark at 40 for length at back, then draft the back line from waist down to the 21 inch Hip Measure. 10 The Science of Skirt Drafting. mark, then down to the dot just made on back edge at 40, next move Rule up and from tlie 40 inch mark with lower cd{je of Rule, draft bottom line from 40 at back edge to second 20 near center of Diagram. ^ Three Piece Skirt ^ The accompanying Diagram, Xo. 7, shows a three piece skirt for the following measures: Size around waist . . 20 inches. hips . 38 inches. Length in front . . .41 inches. Length at back . . 4fi inches. The Science of Skirt Drafting. 17 The front gore of this Skirt as shown on Diagram, is drafted separately from the remainder of Skirt, but afterwards for convenience in making remainder of draft is pinned to it. After drafting front gore, as previously instructed on page 6, HOW DRAFT and allowing for seam on inner edge (line B on Diagram) cut out IS MADE. and pin its inner or bias edge (over onto the straight edge (line C on Diagram) of another piece of goods or paper (after curving and allowing for seam at its front edge also) sufficiently wide to draft a circular skirt with darts. The figures 9 and 11 at bottom edge of diagram 20,make up the 20 inches which is the first of the three sections we use in drafting Circular Skirt. After fastening gore to wider section of material for remainder of Skirt, draw out the Extension Curve from loop, and with front edge of Skirt Rule laid on line A of front gore, proceed as instructed on drafting Circular Skirt. First mark for two darts, each one inch wide, on Extension Curve, and as but 3^ inches will then be taken out in the two darts and curves of front gore, and front edge •of wide section, instead of 4^ as provided in calculation of regular Circular Skirt draft- ing; mark at 14i on waist line of Extension Curve instead of 15j. The two darts of one inch each, and the curve on edges of fines TO FIT DIFFERENT B and C, drawn from Pointer indicating Slender Figure, wiU fit FIGURES. a slender or even medium form, but for stout figures wider darts and greater curves must be provided. The figure indicating exact perforation to mark in at back edge of first width, for example as shown in Diagram, is 42. At back edge of second width mark at 43 for length at that point, and at back edge of third width mark first at 44, then draw Rule down 2 inches and make another mark which would make center of back line or E 46 inches long. When drafting line be sure to first draft to the dot made at a point 5J or 6 inches below waist line where hip measure was taken from, then to the 46 at bot- tom edge. It is impossible to give any exact rule for locating darts, e.x- DARTS. cept for a certain style of figure, as their width and position changes for different forms. Would, however, advise that the method of drafting Skirt with tripple dart on pages 44 and 45 be carefully studied. r^ Would again call your attention to the importance of learning MASTER THE the Rule thoroughly, so that all its principles may be utilized, PRINCIPLES as then the Skirt System can be readily applied to the drafting THOROUGHLY. of any size or style of skirt now worn, or that may be designed in the future. 18 The Science of Skirl Dnifling. Diagram No. 8. It is also important to become verj' familiar with the proper THE CURVE adjustment of the Pointers, indicating the several hip curves, INDICATORS. for the fit and hanging effect of a skirt depends very largely upon these curves and other lines employed. Shall have oc- casion to refer to these Pointers often and for illustrations relative to their use see arrows and letters at hip measure points on Diagram No. 8. By these terms we mean the width of back gore at waist line. BACK SPACE OR In 5 to 9 Gore Skirts we usually'set aside about one twelfth of FULLNESS. the waist measure for back space. In 11 to 19, or greater numbers of gores we make this space still narrower as shown in Reversal Scales. The Science of Skirt Drafting. 19 We usually add double the width of back space for single pleat, WIDTH AND or four times its width for double. Always draft pleat at least HEIGHT OF an inch higher than top of back space, else when folded back PLEAT it will be too short. See special directions on page 10. Diagram No 8 illustrates, first, how to overcome with the Infallible, the tendency which skirts sometimes have to fall forward; second, how to allow for fullness, or back space, and to provide the exact height and width of pleat for any measurement; third, it demonstrates how the Pointers on both sides of the Skirt Rule, for giving the proper curve over hips, may be used to the best advantage when drafting for the difi'erent figures; likewise how to proportion each gore correctly, according to a given hip meas- ure. TO PREVENT FALL- ING FORWARD. If from J to J of an inch is taken off waist hne, at back edge of front and first side gores, as shown by dotted lines. Points A and B on Diagram, the tendency to fall forward wil' usually be overcome. The figures 3|, 6i, 6f and 4, located 5J inches below waist Hne HIP MEASURES on Diagram No. 20 show how wide to make each gore for 24 inch AND CURVES, waist and 41§ hip measure. The several arrows on Diagram show just where the Pointers on Skirt Rule should be placed on draft to give the desired curve. Should you have a larger hip measure, for same size waist, then select the required hip measure from those given in Scale, and draft each gore according to the figures given opposite that particular measure, instead of using those set under 24 and opposite 41 j. See special directions on page 8. The large letter M, indicate that "Medium" should be used when drafting back edge of front, and front edge of first side gore. The letters S, show that " Stout " should be used for back edge of first side and front edge of second side andso on. {* Circular 6kirt Without Darts dfc'^ifc' To draft this Dartless Circular Skirt for the following measures: Size around waist . . 2,2 inches. Size around hips . . 40 inches. Length in front . . 40 inches. Lentgth at back . 43 inches. Begin by placing Skkt Rule on fold of goods, with Top Slide drawn out. Then make a mark at figure 3 on inch scale at waist, and draft line from that mark to front edge. Then from the dot made at 3 to figure 1 1 , at upper right hand corner of Diagram 20 Tlic Science of Skirt Dnftiiifi. Oentre of Back DARTLESS CICULAR SKIRT. For 22 inch Waist Measure. DIagr a ir Kc No. 9, draw a curved line with an 81 incii sweep of tape, which gives correct curve for 22 inch waist measure, l)ut \ inch more must be added to length of sweep for every ad- (hlioiia! two inches in size of waist. To make this «l inch sweep we mention: First, measure straigiit up from the figure 3 on Diagram a distance of 8^ inclies, and make a dot, then after winding tape around pencil, which should be iicld in the right hand, and holding the tape iirmly with the left liand at this dot, a curve with the pencil can easily be made from figures 3 to 11 on Diagram. The goods being I'oldcd, wc llicii measure from front edge (point 1 on Diagram on this curve a distance equal to '. I lie waist measure, whicii in this case is 11 inclics, (I to 1 1 on Diagram.) Now in order to have jxiints frum ulijch in t;il\) Slide diit and mark at 'A!. FRONT GORE. according to Revised Scale page 47, on waist line of Rule for width at top. Then mark at 40 for length of front, then in Scale \o. 2 for ap])ro.\imate width and length at back edge, as pre\iousl.\ instructed. Next draft what is c taken ahoiil 2J inches below bust), 23 waist measure, .39 length in front, 40?, length over hip and 41 in back. The figures at waist line of tlie several gores, give the exact widlit'of each for a The Science of Skirt Drafting;. 37 23 inch waist measure, while those at the bottom of skirt indicate tlieir widths there, which may be varied at pleasure. The section above waist line, or corsage part, is extended up about 5 inches at front and back, and front gore made about 4 inches wide, first side 42, second side 5|, back 2J inches for this size of waist. The general shape and curve at top may like- wise be varied according to taste. -^VM V "='«f^ '%, UV= Diagram No. 18. The sections above waist line are drawn with hip curves, on one side of Skirt Rule, in the same manner as the curves over hips are drawn. The distance from waist line down to A, B and C is about 5| or 6 inches. If you wish to allow for pleat in back, draft as indicated by dotted line E, if not use line D. Front gore may be drafted on fold of goods or with seam. #8# EIGHT GORE SKIRT •:• Diagram No 19 shows a very handsome and easily drafted Princess Skirl of ordi- nary dip (or sweep' length) for 31 inch corsage, 23 waist measure, 38 length in front, 39i length over hip, and 43 length at back. The front gore of tiiis Skirt is cut with seam in center of front, and slightly flaring]onboth frontand back edges. Some of the lines in this diagram show a slight sheath fitting .^effect, but it was_ not sointended! Line B of first side gore is drawn straight and line C with a 2J inch flare. Line D of second side gore is likewise a straight line, and line E has 3J inches flare. Line F is also a straight line, but line G, in center of back may be drawn straight or slightly curving with a little flaring eflfect as shown in cut. The corsage, or portion above the waist line is The Science of Skirt Drafting. 89 drafted after the manner described in diagiam 18, the principal difference being in the height and shape of front gore above waist line. Allow goods for pleat as indicated by line G or cut without as shown by dotted line between F and G. m in m m ■!■ ■■■ BICYCLE SKIRT Figure 20 shows a Bicycle Skirt for an ordinary size waist. The front and side|] gores of this skirt are drafted in the usual way. The back section is drafted by first drawing out Extension Curve, and marking on waist line at about 14, for slender or medium figure, then at 3Z on front edgej^of Rule for length of front side of this gore; then at 32 on back edge for length at back, then draft the first Z2 inches of bottom edge, then measure and draft 11 inches more with bottom edge of Rule, to com- plete the 33 inches of width at bottom edge. Next measure 32 DiagramiNo. 20. ' inches across the Center of back, gore.and make a dot then with bottom edge of Skirt Rule (inverted) draft the 20 inch part of back line from upper right hand corner of waist line, then in the same way draft the 17 inch line, down to 32 at lower right hand corner. This pointed shape given back section when gathered at waist, and back line is drawn forward with tapes which gives it the appearance of a divided skirt. Five Gore Skirt W ith Narrow Side Gore rX- DiaK'niiii 'I\ slmw.s such a skirl I'nr 2') iiicli waist iiicasiirc, which can Iw fitted with out (hirts. Draft front gore as usual, making it 2J inches wide at waist, FRONT GORE. and inclics at lower <'dKe from A to 15. The dare from \i to (" is 1 inches. Draft side gore in the ordinary way, allow no dare on the front SIDE GORE. edge, but a five inch flare on the hark edge C. to H. Mark at 7 on waist line of Skirt Kule for side gore, which will make it six inches wide at top. The dotted line I to D shows normal waist line, and as no dart is used (which always raises the outer edge) we find it necessary to raise it from D to J J of an inch. If the hips are quite prominent, add h inch e.xtra for spring at point E, DUgram No. 21 . The Science of Skirt Drafting. 41 which is six inches down from D. Dotted line from D to E shows normal draft, with Pointer indicating greatest curve or stout figiu'e (on Rule) placed on waist line. The width of this gore from F to G is 16 inches. The front line of the back gore is drafted in the usual way, one- BACK GORE. half inch of extra spring (at bottom of dotted line, point E) be- ing allowed for large hips, same as in side gore. The first part of back section from K to arrow at top, and from near H to arrow on bottom line, is the remainder of side gore, and is made 2 to 18 inches wide respect- ively. The Figure 2, between arrow and short dotted line, under L, shows amount left for back space or fullness, and the remaining four inches of back width at top from L to M (which is slightly raised in center) provides for inverted pleat, or other mode of back finish. The width of back gore proper at bottom, from arrow to N is 24 inches, which makes the entire back section from near H to N, 42 inches wide, and length of back from M to N, 46 inches, all of which can easily be changed as fancy or style may sug- gest. Some dress makers and ladies tailors prefer the front gores nar- TO^MAKE ^GORES rower, at both waist and foot, and to have the side gores all the NARROWER. same width, likewise the styles change from one width to an- other. These changes can easily be made by deducting § inch or more from the front, and adding that amount to the width of the narrower side gore. For example; the width as given in Revised Scale for seven gore skirts page 47, for 20 inch waist measure, is front li, first side 4 J, second side 4f inches. By taking | inch from front, and adding it to first side it would make both side gores appear 4f inches wide on draft, which would make them 3f inches net. The J inch added to side gore at waist should also be added to it at hip, and the same amount deducted from front gore at hip. Whatever is taken from the front gores at foot may be added to the width of sides and back gores, if you desire the same breadth of skirt. All sizes and styles of skirts can be treated in a like or similar manner as fancy or style may siiggest. ngn □On SKIRTS WITH TRAINS In cutting skirts with trains, greater length, and width must be provided. The train portion of a skirt usually starts from the back edge of the first side gore,in a 7 gore skirt,or from a point on the lower edge of the skirt, almost directly below the hip, and from there the train should gradually lengthen towards the center of back. 42 The Science of Skirt Dniftiiifi. Tlu" sliapc of a train is varied according to taste and fasliion. hut SHAPE TO usually has about the same general shajn- as i)(jttoni of skirt, GIVE TRAIN. though they are often rut square.being slightly rounded at the corners. Trains vary in length from a few inches to a yard or more, the LENGTH OF TRAIN, average length being from (i to 1« indies. The longer the train, however, the more fullness should be given to the last side and badi gores. It is said that Kings regulate the lengtli of the trains to be worn at Court Funct- ions; that of a Duchess must be three yards long; a marchioness, two and one half; that of a countess, two, a Viscountess, one and one-half, and a Haroness, one \ard. FULL SKIRTS Many ways of cutting these skirts might be suggested, but the easiest and most sat- isfactory that iias been brouglit to our notice, is to provide a narrow front gore and two or three wider side sections. FRONT GORE. For a medium figure the front gore should be made about 4^ inches wide at waist, and 9i at bottom edge. FIRST SIDE. This section should be made about 15 inches wide at waist, and 36 at lower edge. The second or last section of this skirt should be made 19 or 20 SECOND SIDE. inches wide at waist, and 45 at bottom edge. If a skirt some- thing after the fashion of a seven gore is desired, then the front gore may be made 4 at top, and 9^ at lower edge. The first side, 9 inches at waist, 18 at lower edge. The second side, 1 1 inches at waist, and 25 at lower edge. The back section may be made about 19 inches at waist, and 3(i at bottom edge. Such skirts may be pleated or gathered, according to style or fancy. All skirls, whctlier full or close fitting must be drafted with becoming lines, hen< . the importance of having a reliable Sytseni. The Science of Skirt Drafting. 43 In conclusion would beg to advise those who learn the INFAL- PRACTICE MAKES LIBLE SKIRT CUTTING DEVICE to spend at least several PERFECT. days in practice work, immediately after taking instructions.as the principles and details of using the system will then be fresh in the mind, hence more easily applied. ^•^ *»■» **•» ^*» ## ## The New Century Ladies' Tailor Jacket and Coat Method ## ## The Instruction Book (which forms a part of this method) con- INSTRUCTION BOOK tains thirty diagrams and explanations illustrating how to pro- duce the peculiar lines and curves which so plainly distinguish the "Tailor-Made Garment" from the ready-made, or those cut by patterns, or Dress Cutting Systems. It likewise teaches and demonstrates the most approved process of sponging, pressing, making and much other valuable information on Ladies 'Tailor- ing, which hertofore could only be obtained in Large Cities at a cost (over and above expenses) of from fifty to one hundred dollars. The accompanying diagrams 'show a sample of those used in this Instruction Book. Diagram 23 shows proper manner of drafting collar, which is an important item when cutting that part. Diagram 22, shows the manner of arranging canvass, and hair cloth in order to produce the best effect. The instructions whicli follow it explain fully how to pad, baste, and press garment into perfect shape. Diagram No. 22. D Diagram No. 23 TESTIMONIALS. W. R. Williams & Son: Humphrey, Nebr., Jan 30th, 1903. I am very much pleased with the Jacket and Coat System, as it is just the thing for cutting ladies ' tailor made suits. Miss Lizzie Weber. W. R. WiLLi.\MS: Butte, Mont., Nov. 28, 1902. Have had your Jacket and Coat System about one year, and I think it the finest thing it has ever been my good fortune to see. I like Ladies' Tailoring, but it was very difhcult to get just the right cut, but with your Jacket System I never have any trouble. Josephine Keating, No. 50 West Granite Street . Additional tlnstructions Including new Revised Scales for Gored Skirls, Rints on Designing -etc., etc Flared Circular Skirt with Triple Darts Diagram No. 24 shows a Circular Skirt for 24 inch waist measure, 42 hip, 40 length in front and 48 at back, having three darts instead of two, which is sometimes consid- ered more desu-able. When drafting this skirt locate center dart, not less than two inches wide, directly over the hip. Place front dart, which is one inch wide, in center between A and middle dart, and back dart one and one half inches wide midway be- tween middle dart and B. The dotted line extending from front dart to D indicates the curvature of waist line after the darts have been taken up. In crafting this skirt, mark 16.\ on Ivxtension Curve of Skirt Uule, then add 4 inches, for pleats or fullness. From B to C is four inches, which is the amount here allowed for inverted pleat at waist line, but double that amount should be allowed at bottom edge. The full line indicates center where pleat is folded, which is raised J of an inch to provide sufficient length when folded under. How to draft this skirt : First mark opposite 40 on Skirt Rule for front length, then at 4U at back edge of first widtii (under E) ; then at 44^ for second width (tmder F); then at 48 at back. The Slashes or wedge-shaped gores E and F when spread apart, as here shown, produce a pleasing, ilaring effect. If greater breadth of skirt is desired, add by increasing width at back of draft. BACK SPACE DEFINED By "Back Space or Fullness" is meant, the distance on the waist line between tiie back side scam and center of back, then whatever is necessary for pleats is added beyond this space. We have foimd in practice the following a good rule, namely: to add double the amount allowed for back space for a single inverted pleat, and four times that amount for double, for example: if the back space given in Scale is 2 inches, add beyond the two inch point, (center of back) 4 inches. NEW SCALES FOR WAIST, HIP, AND LOWER EDGE These new Scales which you will fmd printed onother pages will be especially helpful as they give the exact figure at which to mark for width of each gore at waist, at hip and at bottom edge. These for convenience are grouped together for each size. The letters M, S, and SI to right of figure on scale indicate the curve to be used when drafting, M indicating Medium, S Stout and SI Slender. The Science of Skirt Draftii^. 45 You will observe that three pointers are provided on each side PROPER CURVE of Skirt Rule, designated as Stout, Medium and Slender figure, OVER HIPS which are to be used according to the form you are drafting for. We find by actual test that some figures that appear stout re- quire less spring or curve, than many which look more slender, as a great deal depends upon the prominency of the hips, also that some of the seams need more curve than others, for example: the hip curve for front gore, and the front edge of first side gore (for sizes 24 to 30 inclusive, when drafting seven gore skirt) should be given the Medium curve, as indicated by the letter M opposite hip Scale, likewise that the back edge of the first side gore, and front edge of second side, should be drafted by placing pointer in- dicating stout figm-e, or greatest curve, at the waist line shown by S opposite hip meas- iire oji Scale. The curve for back edge of second side gore, and front edge of back for all sizes up to 36, should be given the Medium ciurve as shown by M on Scale. For very slender figures use pointer indicating Slender figure as shown by SI on Scale, for front gore, and front of first side, then for back edge of first side and front of second side gore use Medium pointer. For convenience the letters SI, M or S have been placed to the right of the hip measiire figures in the different scales wihch indicate the exact curve to give each gore. Diagram Ko. 24. The Science of Skirt Drafting. New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting Five Gore Skirts. Fi ret tier of fixures below Bhow Willi h ..t gure al wtiiHt, secoiitl ut hip, (bird al bottom edge t ■ « e s OS'S" Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge. .20 .36 .3 yds, 13 in li 2iSl 8 91 12 M 30 t i inches 3 22 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge. 22 .38 .3 yds, 15 in 2 31S 8i 9i 12iM 30i 1} 34 23 Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge. .24 AM .3 yds, 16 in 2 3iM 9 m 13iM 31 2 4 22 Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge. .26 .43* .3vds, 19 in 2* 4'.M 9\ U J31 -M 32 Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge . .28 .46 . 3 yds, 23 in 2* 4 M 9i Hi I4iM 32 2i 4i 24 For 30, 32 and 34 Waist Measure use two darts; first l\ inches wide and second 1} inches. Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge. .30 .49 .3 yds, 28 in Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge . .32 .521 .3 yds, 28 in 3 4'. .M 10 3 4iS 10 13* 15 .\1 34 I4i I6iM 34 2i 5 24 Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge. .34 .55 . 3 yds, 33 in 3 5 S lOiS i5i I7iM 36 For 36, 38 and 40 W'aist Measure use two darts; first 1 i inches wide, second 2 inches. Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge. .36 .57 .3 yds, 33 in 3i 5 S lOi 16* 18* S 36 21 5 24 Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge . .38 .61 .4 yds, 6 in. 31 51 S It 17 19 S 38 3 6 26 Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge. .40 .63 .4 vd.s, 6 in 4 5JS tl 17* I9i S 38 N. B. — The figures given above at which to mark for width of front gore (also back space) and those indicating size of hips and width at bottom of gore, represent their actual widtii at top, hip and bottom edge, as Front Slide is then drawn out, or a mark is made through a certain perforation, but the actual width of side gores at top is one inch less than the figures indicate, as one inch lias been taken ofi' for curve by moving I'^ront Slide back to place. Am confident this arrangement will be greatly appreciated by skirt cutters, as it gives the e.-icact width of each gore for every figure, hence docs away with all calculating, proportioning or refitting. The Science of Skirt Drafting. ■ 47 New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge When Drafting Seven Gore Skirts. First tier of figures below show width of gore at waist, second at hip, third at bottom edge. i6@°° Mark Front Gore at Mark First Side Gore at Mark Second Side Gore at Leave for 4 .of back Space or Fullness Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge .20 .36 .3 1-3 yds 2^ SI 8 4} 5|S 14 4J 16 U inches 3 " 22 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge .22 .38 .3 yds, 15 in 2 3 SI 8i 4J, 6'S I4i 41 6i M 164 1| ■■ 34 ■• 22 ■ ' Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge .24 AH .3 yds, 16 in . 2 3JM 9 44 6iS 144 54 7 M J64 2 ' ' 4 ■' 22 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge .26 .43i .3 yds, 19 in 2i 4"M 5i 6JS 15 5i 7iM . 17 2 " 4 " 22 ■' Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge .28 .46 . 3 yds, 23 in 24 4 M 54 7iS 15 51 7iM 17 2i ■' 44 " 24 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge .30 .49 .3 yds, 28 in 3 41 M 10 5! 7iS . 16 51 71 M 18 24 •• 5' •• 24 ■• Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge .32 .52i .3 yds, 28 in 3 5 S JO 5! 71 S 16 61 84 M 18 24 ■' 5 " 24 •' Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge .34 .55 .3 yds, 33 in . 3 4iS 10* 6f 8iS 17 6| 9 M 19 24 " 5 " 24 •• Size at waist .36 .57 .3 yds, 33 in 3J 5 S lOi 64 81 S 17 74 n s 19 24 •• 5' " 24 " Size at waist Size of hip Width lower edge .38 .61 .4 yds, 6 in 3h . 5iS II 7 91 S 18 7i 10 S 20 3 •• 6 26 •■ Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge .40 .63 .4 yds, 6 in . 4 5f S II 7 915 18 8 104 S 20 3 " 6 " 26 ■' VT OTTNn?inc« the back, so that they will be quite a good deal wider there than in iront. Flares, unless it is desirable to make the skirt quite close fitting at knee, should be started at a point about 20 or 22 inches below the waist line, and gradually increased towards bottom of skirt. For an ordinary 7 gore skirt, make flare at lower edge of front gore from 2 to 4^ inches wide. Fh-st side gore from 2| to 5J inches, and second side from 3^ to 7 inches. \^'hen drafting such flares measure out the desired number of inches from lower right hand corner of gore, then make a dot at 20 or 22 on back edge of Skirt Rule, then move Rule up until upper end of Flare Slide coincides with this dot, when after Flare Slide is drawn out, line may be drafted with it from the 20 mark, to the mark indicating width of flare at lower edge. 48 The Science of Skirt Drafting. New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting Nine Gore Skirts. L IJIKT row ol ligurcs sliow widt h of gore at wuist.soc- Leave for J Olid at hip, thiid at bot- Mark Front Mark First Mark 2nd Mark 3rd of back space torn edge flisfif' Gore at Side gore at Side Gore at Side Gore at or fullness Size at waist 20 I 3 3i 4 I i inch. Sizeathip 36 2 SI 3J SI 41 M 5 31 3J " Width lower edge 3yds, 12in 7 8 10 13 22" Sizeatwaist 22 I* 3i 3i 4 JJ " Sizeathip 38 24 SI 31 SI 4t M 5J SI 3i " Width lower edge 3yds,22in 8 10 II J4 22" Sizeal waist 24 JJ 31 3i * 4i 2 " Sizeathip 4U 3 SI 3* SI 4\M 5} SI 4J " Width lower edge 3yds,23iii 8* JO JJ J4 22" Sizeatwaist 26 2 3* 3} 4} 2 " Sizeathip 43i 3 SI 4M 4i M 51 SI 4i " Width lower edge 3yds,26in 8J JO JJ 14 23" Size at waist 28 2J 3} 41 5 2\ " Sizeatliip 46 3* M 4i M 5M 6 SI 4J " Width lower edge 3 yds, 27 in 9 JOi J J J4 23" Size at waist 30 2» 3J 4i 5} 2\ " Sizeathip 49 4M 4* M 5* M 6J M 4i " Width lower edge 3yds,33in 9>, Jj" J2 J4i 23* " Sizeatwaist 32 2j 3J 4} 5* 21" Sizeatliip 52* 4i M 4J M 5} M ' 63 M 4i " Width lower edge 3 yds, 35 in 10 J J* J3 15 24" Sizeatwaist... 34 3 4 4J 5} 2i " Sizeathip 55 4} M 5 M 6 M 71 M 5 " Width lower edge 4 yds, 8 in 10 12 13i 15* 25 " Sizeatwaist 36 31 41 51 5} 2}" Size at liip 57 4i M 51 M 6* M 71 M 5 " Width lower edge 4yds,J4in JO J2* J4* J6 26" Size at waist 38 4 4i 51 5} 2* " Sizeathip 61 5} M 5* M 7S 71 M 51" Width lower edge 4yds,I7in JO* J2i J5 16* 27" Sizeatwaist 40 4 4,' 5* 6 23 " Sizeathip 63 5! M 5i M 71 S 8M 51" Width lower edge 4yd.s,2Jiii lOJ 13 15 17 28" The width of the several gores in these Scales are considered EXPLANATION OF Standard, but can easily be changed if desired by reducing SCALE one, and adding that amount to the other. If greater width at the bottom edge is desirable, above what may be added in the way of flares, it better be added to the last side and back gores, for if the width of front, and center side gores are increased, the skirt may have a tendency to fall for- ward. For explanation of the letters SI., M. and S. to the right of the hip measure figures seepage 18. Please remember that only one half the width of front and back gores is given, and are just as they appear, wiiile tiie actual width of each side gore at waist line is one inch less, as that amount is taken off in curves. The Science of Skirt Drafting. 49 New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting Eleven Gore Skirts. Upper row of figures show width of gore at waist, sec- Leave for i ond at hip, tkird at bottom Mark Front Mark First Mark 2nd Mark 3rd Mark 4th of back space edge. £•" Gore at Side Gore at Side Gore at Side Gore at Side Gore at or Fullness Size at waist 20 | 2i 2A 3} 3| H inches Size at hip 36 I J. SI 2i- SI 21 SI 3i M 4i Si 3 ' ' Width lower edge 3 yds, 26 in 4A 9 9i 10 12 22 " Size at waist 22 f 2* 3 3i 3| li Sizeathip 38 USI 3" SI 3i SI 4 M 4i SI 3" ' Width lower edge 3yds, 29in 4 9i 10 lOi )2i 22 Size at waist 24 I 2i 3i 3J 4 IJ ' Sizeathip 4Ii If SI 3 SI 3| SI 4i M 5 SI 3 ' Width lower edge 3yds,34in 5 9i JO 11 J3 22J ' Sizeatwaist 26 I 3 3i 3i 4i H ' Sizeathip 43i IJSI 3i SI 4' SI 4^ M 5i SI 3 ' Width lower edge 4yds, linch 5* 9A lOJ Ili 13 22i ' Sizeatwaist 28 li 3} 3i 4 4i U ' Sizeathip 46 2 SI 3J SI 4i SI 4i M 5; SI 3+ ' Width lower edge 4yds,4in 5i 10 lOi lU I3i 23 ' Sizeatwaist 30 U 3* 3i 4i 4i JJ * Sizeathip 49 2i SI 3| SI 4J SI 5M 5* SI 3J ' Width lower edge 4yds,8in 61 10 H 12 I3i 23 ' Sizeat waist 32 If 3i 3f 4i 4} If ' Sizeathip 52i 2| SI 4"SI 4* M 5i M 5J SI 3i ' Width lower edge 4yds. 11 in 6i lOi II 12 14 23i ' Sizeat %Aaist 34 1} 3i 4 4f 5 IJ ' Sizeathip 55 2| SI 4i SI 4J M 5J M 6 SI 4 ' Width lower edge 4yds, 14in 7 JO^ Hi I2i 14 23i ' Sizeatwaist 36 2 4 4i 4} 5 2 ' Sizeatliip 57 3 SI 4i SI 5M 5| M 6 SI 4i ' Width lower edge 4yds, I7in 7 if Jli I2i I4i 24 ' Size at waist 38 2 4^ 4i 5 5i 2 ' Sizeathip..: 61 3 SI 5M Si M 6i M 6i SI 4i ' Width lower edge 4 yds, 23 in 7i IIJ 12 13 14i 25 ' Sizeatwaist 40 2i 4i 4| 5 5i 2i ' Sizeathip 63 31 SI 5 M 5J M 6} S 61 SI 4i ' Width lower edge 4vds,27in 8 lU 12 13 15 26 < To obtain the best results when using these Scales, and to BE SYSTEMATICAL avoid confusion arising from seeing so many figures together, AND ACCURATE write the figures found in Scale opposite desired measures, on a separate slip of paper before beginning the draft. Mark opposite given waist measure on waist line. The hip measure, however may not be found in the same gi'oup; for example you may have a 20 inch waist measure and 38 hip, hence it will be necessary to mark the gores at waist according to the fig- ures in the 20 inch group, but at hip and bottom edge in the 2,Z inch group. In order to avoid all possibility of mistakes or duplicates, w.e have issued a Skirt Measure book, neatly bound containing 50 pages, conveniently subdivided and spaced ready for use. Regular price of these boolffi 25 cts., but we charge only 15c each when sent with order for one or more Infallible Skirt Rules. 50 The Science of Skirt Drafting. New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at V\ hich to Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting Thirteen Gore Skirts. Upper row of fiKures show width of gore at waist, sec- ond at hip, third at bottom edge 158^ 3| ''■a Is- £ f s S-S- 3 Hi Size at waist ^izeat hip Width lower edge. . ...24 ...42 . . . .4 yds, Sin i 1 1 SI 4* 2* 2iSl 9 2\ 3} SI 9i 31 31 .\1 10 3i 3ASI 10* 31 4 SI 11 1 4 inches 3' •■ 20 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge.. ...26 ...43J . . .4 yds, 11 m liSl 3 2J 2^ SI 9J 3 3iSI 10 3 3iM lOi 3i 33 SI 104 I's. Ill 11 " 3 " 20 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge. . ...28 ...46 . . .4 yds, 13 in I I}S1 5i 2* 3 SI 94 3 31 SI 10 I'm lOJ I's. lOi I's, 101 3 " 21 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge.. ...30 ...49 4 yds, 20 in I USl 5i 2} 3 SI 9* 3 3iSl 104 3J 4iM lOi 4 4iSI 114 41 41 SI 121 i' •■■' 21 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge. . ...32 ...524 ...4 yds, 23 in ( 2 SI 6\ 23 3iSI 9 3 33 SI lOJ 3/ 4* M 4 4iSI 12 4 5 s; 12J 14 ■• 3 " 21 '• Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge.. ...34 ...55 . ..4yds, 25 in H 2} SI 6i 3 3} SI 10 3i 4 M lOi 3i 4iM 11 4 4iSl 12 41 51 SI 12 13 " 3 " 21 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge. . .36 ...57 ... 4 yds, 25 in 2iSI 6i 3i 3iSI to 3J 4iM 10 3i 44 M 12 4 5iSI 12 4i 51 SI 12 J!" 22 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge. . ...38 ...61 . . .4 yds 28 in n 2isi 7 3* 4} SI 10 3} 4}M 11 4i 5}M 12 4J 54 SI 12 41 51 SI 12 2 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge.. ...40 ...63 . . .4vds, 30in 2! SI 7\ 3} 3iSI 10 4 4; M 12 4! 5i M 12 44 54 51 124 43 54 SI 124 2 " 4 " 22 '• DO NOT SHOW ANY PART OF FLOUNCE CUTTING WHEN SOLICITING Would advise all those soliciting for the Infallible SUirt Hule, not to show any part of our manner of llouncc cutting or any other special features of the work, to any one until they hayk taken tiik skirt HULK, with full oral instructions and I'aid for same. This is all very valuable information and easily picked up, but the fact tiiat we teach ALL those things by the very latest and most approved process should not onl>- be MENTIONED, but EMPHASIZED witii all POSSIBLE FORCE, as tills is an important adjimct to skirt cutting, and something that nine out of ten dressmakers will be ex- ceedingly glad to learn. However, don't fail to impress upon their minds ti\at it is a SECRET PROCESS, whicli they ought to know and retain for themselves, in order that they may stand at the head of their profession The Science of Skirt Drafting. 51 New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting Fifteen Gore Skirts. Upper row of figures Q^ show width of gore at o o waist, second at hip, " g. third at bottom edge t^~ g.'* S a & g. p p s"a Size at waist 24 Size at hip 42 Width lower edge. .4 yds, 22 in a h SI 4 2i 25 SI 9 2i 2iSI 9 2i 3 M m 21 3 SI 104 3 3iSI II 3 35 SI II 1 inches 24 " 18 " Size at waist 26 Size at hip 42 Width lower edge. .4 yds, 30 in USI 4i 2i 2iSI 9 2i 2iSI 9 2i 3 M . JOi 3 3} SI II 3i .34 SI 34 3|SI 12 I ■' 24 " 18 " Size at waist 28 Size at hip 46 Width lower edge. .4 yds, 28 in a Usi ^ 2} 2iSl 9 2i 2JSI ID 21 3i M m 3i 3JM II 34 3|SI 114 34 3f SI 114 14 " 21 ■' 18 •• Size at waist 30 Size at Hip 49 Width lower edge 4 yds , 30 in I USl 4A 2i 2* SI 9 2J 3 SI 10 2| 3i M lOi 2i 3|M II 31 4 SI 12 3i 4 SI 12 14 " 24 " 18 " Sizeat wai.st 32 Size at hip 52i Width lower edge .4 yds, 32 in I USI 4i 2i 2iSI 9 21 3iSI 10 3 3iM m 34 31 M II 3i 4iSI 12 4 4{SI 12 14 " 2J " 19 " Size at waist 34 Size at hip 55 Width lower edge . 5 yds H II SI 5 2i 2iSI 9 2J 3VSI 10 3i 3iM lOi 34 4 M 114 4i 44 SI 12 44 41 SI 12 2 ■' 3 " 19 " Size at waist ... .36 Sizeat Hip 57 Width lower edge . 5 yds, JJ SI 5 2i 3' SI 9A 2| 3'. SI 10' 3^ 3f M lOi 34 4M 114 4i 41 SI 12 44 4f SI 12 2 " 3 " 19 " Size at waist 38 Size at hip 61 Width lower edge . 5 yds, 2 in I* 2' SI 6 21 3^ SI 9i 3 34 SI 10 3i 4 M lOi 34 4iM 114 4i 4| SI 12 44 5 SI 124 2 " 3i " 20 " Size at waist 40 Size at hip 63 Width lower edge . 5 yds, 9 in U 2|SI 7 3 3ASI 9i 3\ 3JM lOi 3i 4 M II 31 44 M 1 14 44 5 SI 12 44 54 SI- 13 2 ■' 4 " 20 " When selecting skirts for stout ladies, clioose those having a SKIRTS CONTAIN- large number of gores, if possible, as the more seams there are ING NUMEROUS in a skirt, the more slender the effect. A nine, eleven, or fifteen GORES gore skirt, with pleats turned forward to the knee, generally speaking, looks well on stout figures. We find by actual test that by dropping I of an inch at back WILL NOT FALL edge of gore at waist line the gores will be drawn back from 2 FORWARD to 3 inches at bottom edge, and that the narrower the front and side gores are made, the less tendency they wUl have to fall forward, but whatever amount is deducted from the front and side gores should be add- ed to back section, in order that the entire skirt may have sufficient width. 52 The Science of Skirt Drafting. New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting Seventeen Gore Skirts. Upper row of figures ^^ oy, show widtb of gore at Ho ^3 mist, second at hip, * ^ * ■* third at bottom edgef9~ S- S 1=^ E> » Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge . .24 .42 .4 yds, 29 in js, 4 2 2 SI 9 2i 2iSI 9 2i 21 M 9 21, 24 M 94 2} 23 SI 94 23 23 SI 94 3 3 SI 10 1 inch 24 " 17 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge . .26 .45 .4 yds, 35 in Is, 4 2i 2iSI 9 2i 2JS1 9 2J 2iM 9J 10 2} 2} SI 10 3 3 SI 10 3 31 SI II I " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge . .28 .47 .5 yds, 3 in i liSI 5 2i 2} SI 9 2i 2AS1 9 2i 24 M 9J 2i 2JM 10 3 3 SI 10 31 31 SI 10 31 34 SI 11 1 " 24 " 18 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge . .30 .49 . 5 yds, 6 in i\ SI 6 21 21 SI 9 2* 2iSI 9 25 2iM 9J 23 3 -M 104 3 31 SI 104 31 3iSI 10 31 34 SI 11 I " 3 " 18 " Size at waist Size at hip -. . . . Width lower edge . .32 .52 .5 yds Sin i liSI 6 2J 2iSI 9 2J 2JSI 9 2i 2i M 94 I'm 104 34 3iSI 104 34 34 SI 104 4 41 SI 11 1 " 3 " 18 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge . .34 .55 .5 yds, J3 in i USl 6 2i 2iSI 9 2i 2} SI 9J 2J 3 M 10 3 31 M J04 34 3} SI 11 33 4 SI 11 4 41 SI 114 18 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge . .36 .58 .5 yds, 17 in i n 81 6J 2i 2iSI 9J 2i 2iM 9i 2i 3 M 10 31 34 M J04 34 3} SI 11 I's, 114 43 51 Si 12 14 •' 3 " 18 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge . .38 .61 .5 yds, 17 in i 1} SI 6A 2H 24 SI 95 23 2i M 9i 23 3 M 10 3 J 33 M 104 33 4 SI 114 41 41 SI 114 41 5tSI 12 14 ■• 34 " 18 " Size at waist Size at hip Width lower edge .40 .63 . . 5 yds, 25 in I n SI 7 2* 2} SI 10 I'm 10 3 31 M 104 31 34 M J04 4 41 SI 114 41 44 SI 12 44 43 SI 12 2 " 4 " 19 " CIRCULAR SKIRTS NOT SUITED TO ALL FIGURES Circular Skirts will doubtless continue to be quite a favorite, especially wlien made of firm, light weight material, for slen- der and medium figures, but never for stout, as they are rarely ever becoming to such persons. Neither should stout persons undertake to wear bodices or skirts made of striped materials, where the stripes would necessarily run crosswise, or around the garment. Stripes, or ornamentations of any kind, including braid, bands, etc., for stout figures, should invariably run up and down, as they have a tendency when thus used, to make the figure look more slender. Small tucks, on the bias, meeting in the center of front of either skirt or waist, are likewise becoming to stout persons. The Science of Skirt Drafting. 53 New Revised Scale Giving Exact Figures at Which to Mark Gores at Top, Hip, and Bottom Edge, When Drafting Nineteen Gore Skirts Upper row of figures 0*=j show width of gore at go waist, second at hip, » 5. third at bottom edge ^4k> ^ Size at waist 24 i 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 24 I inch Sizeathip 42 } SI I|SI 1} SI If M IJ M IJ M 2i SI 3 SI 3'SI 3 Width lower edge . .4 yds, 25 in 3 7 7 7 7 8 8| 9i 9i 16 Sizeat waist 26 i 2^2} 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 3 \\ Sizeathip 45 I SI If SI Ji SI IJ M 2i M 2i M 2i SI 3 SI 3i SI 3 Width lower edge . .4 vds,26in 4 7 7 7 8 8 9 9i 10 16 Sizeatwaist 28 i 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2i 3 3} IJ Sizeathip 47 \ SI I| SI IJ SI If M 2i M 2J M 2| SI 3i SI 3i SI 3 Width lower edge .4yds, 30 in 4 7 7 7 8 8 9 9J JOJ 17 Sizeatwaist 30 J x2\ 2i 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ Z 3* 2 Sizeathip 49 Ji SI l| SI If SI IJ M IJ M 2i M 3 SI 3i SI 3| SI 3i Width lower edge ..4 yds, 33 in 4 7 7 7 8 9 9i 9i lOJ 17 Sizeatwaist 32 J 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2i 2f 3J 3i 2 Sizeathip 52 IJSI If SI IfSI 2 M '2 M 3"M 3i SI 3i SI 3i SI 3i Width lower edge .. 4 yds, 35 in 4 7 7 8 8 9 9J 9J lOJ 17 Sizeatwaist 34 \ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2\ 2J 3 3^ 3| 2 Sizeathip 55 HSI 2 SI 2 SI 2i M 2i M 3 M 3i SI 33 SI 4 SI 3J Width lower edge ..5 yds, I in ..4 1\ 1\ T^ i, 9 9| 10 JOi J7 Sizeatwaist 36 I 2i 2i 2\ 24 2| 3i 3^ 4 2 Sizeathip 58 14 SI 2 SI 2} SI 2| M 2| M 3 M 3i SI 3| SI 4i SI 3i Width lower edge ..5 yds, 4 in 5 7^ 74 8 8 9 94 JO lOi 17 Sizeatwaist 38 li 2\ 2\ 2\ 2i 3 3i 3J 4 2 Sizeathip 61 If SI 2 SI 2J SI 2i M 3 M 3i M 3i SI 3i SI 4J SI 3^ Width lower edge.. 5 yds, 9 in 5 74 74 8 84 94 9i 10 II 18 Sizeatwaist 40 \\ 24 2J 2| 3 3 3} 3i 4 2 Sizeathip 63 I|SI. 24 SI 2| SI 3 M 3 M 3i M 3i SI 3| SI 44 SI 3J Width lower edge ..5 yds, 14 in 5 74 74 84 9 94 10 lOJ JI^ J8 The preceeding'^Scale together with general instructions NO OTHER SCALES furnished in forepart of Instruction Book, give about all the NECESSARY directions possible along the line of drafting gored skirts and other Standard Skirts, hence will devote remaining space to other features of skirt work. It has been our aim and purpose in this book to bring out only such ideas and sug- gestions on skirts as will tend to develop and perfect the seeker after such knowledge, therefore, we haven't attempted to design or give instructions in drafting some one fad or modish article, which may be in style today and out tomorrow, as this is a text and not a fashion book. 54 The Science of Skirt Drafting. This slasliinmHoccss wlikli we liavc explained on paye 27 is al- STUDY THIS PRO- most iinliiuited in its scope of usefulness to the average dress- CESS CAREFULLY maker, as by it she can readily provide for fidlness whenever and wherever she wishes it, not only in liounccs but capes, collars and otiicr items of cuttini,' as well. To sum it all up, the rule Ls simply this: Whenever you wisli fullness for pleats or other purposes in the material slasli, and spread apart the pattern at that point sufliciently to allow for the same. To pro\ iile fullness for pleats as alluded to in preceding para- HOW TO PROVIDE ^raph, spread these pieces apart sufliciently when piiinint,' them EXTRA FULNESS on material, to allow for any width pleat > ou ma\ desire, then FOR PLEATS wlicii the llounceis cut out and those points brought back to position on the skirt, tiie fullness needed for pleats at top will be provided for, same as fullness for ripples at bottom. The dotted lines in Fig. 3, represent the pieces!, 2, 3, 4, 5, and fi, wiiich have been slashed up and pinned on as described in I-Mg, 2, page 29. f lowever, you will note that in separating tiiem and extending them out, the original curve at bottom has been disarranged, and as they are spread apart one of the lower corners of each piece is raised. Therefore, when cutting around tiie bottom edge of flounce proper, cut in the shape of a general curve, tuching only the lower points of these pieces, as shown by bottom line D in Fig. 3, page 29. The dilTerence between size of waLst and hips in 20 to 30 waist DIFFERENCE measure will range from 16 to 19 inches, and in sizes from 32 BETWEEN to 4(1 from 20\ to 23, but the e.xact width of gores and spring WAIST AND HIP produced by using the proper curves and scales, as already MEASURE explained, will certainly be greatly appreciated by those who want to work from an actual hip measure for each gore, and it is the only way especially for city dress makers who have out of town customer.^;. who cannot call to be fitted. One of the most objectionable things about circular skirts TO PREVENT CIR- is their tendency to sag. This can be overcome to a consid- CULAR SKIRTS erable extent by using a gored lining, cut by placing a straight SAGGING. to a bias seam. If the skirt is to be made without lining, this can sometimes be overcome by weighting skii't at lower back corner and hanging up for several days before finLsJiing. If trimmed with braid to give the skirt a gored effect, the braid will usually prevent sagging. In addition to the Infallible Skirt Cutting Device we manufacture the Perfec- tion Tailor System for Waist Cutting. The Perfection Shirt Waist System, also the New Century Ladies Tailor method for Jacket and Coat work. These are the most practical Systems on the market, hence are very salable. Shall be pleased to send you particulars and prices. The Science of Skirt Drafting. 55 Out of the Ordinary, Such as Pleated or Tucked Skirts = HINTS ON DESIGNING, ETC ^ As dii'ections and scales for drafting from live to nineteen gore skirts, are given in this Instruction Boolv, will describe only our method for drafting those having a still greater number of gores. The first move will be to take the Skirt Rule and draft a cir- cular skirt for a foundation, after the manner described on pages 14 and 15, adding whatever is necessary at bottom edge, for greater breadth of skirt. If more desirable, however, use the Dartless Circular Skh-t for a foundation, described on pages 19 and 20. After Circular draft is made, divide the wide space at waist line into as many nar- row spaces as will equal half the number of gores desired, then make plain dots, or other marks to indicate the e.xact point where the several lines are to be drawn from. As the front and back gore occupy these respective places, they need not be taken into accoimt when calculating on the number of lines necessary, as there need be only as many lines drawn as there are number of side gores used. Ne.xt, divide the wide space at lower edge of circular foundation into just the same number of narrow spaces as were laid off at waist line. The width of the several spaces, or gores, will necessarily be quite narrow, but should gradually increase from first side gore, the widest being over the hip, and just back of that point. ^l After marking all the points on lower edge, just as you did at HOW TO DRAFT the waist line, where each of the several lines are to be drawn to, THE LINES. take front edge of Skirt Rule, with front top slide drawn out, and draft all the lines thus marked off, from waist line to bottom edge of skirt. If the circular skirt with darts is used as a foundation, in order to fit the waist it will be necessary to curve some of the lines slightly, preferably those of two or three of the side gores, in front and back of the hip. The amount taken up by means of these curves, shoidd be equal to that which would otherwise be taken out in darts, or if de- sired it could be taken out in small pinch tucks, extending from waist line to hip. It is certainly a great art to be able to produce original HINTS ON DESIGNING designs, especially of gowns, and very few succeed, but OR REPRODUCING doubtless the average dress maker can learn to copy or reproduce them, but even to do that well will require quite a little time, patience and practice. It is our purpose, however, to render all the assistance we can in this direction, by offering tiie following suggestions: First, then, before attempting to make a draft of any pattern, found illustrated in the fashion books, we would advise every one to provide themselves with what we call a " designing block. " Such a block, or foundation, can easily be made for skirts, by drafting a circular sku't on a fakly heavy piece of light colored paper, when all the peculiar features of the design, including lines to represent pleats, tucks, scallops, squares, etc., etc., may first be lightly sketched. Before doing any sketching, study the pictiu-e of the skirt carefully, and if possi- 50 Tlic Science uf Skirt Dniflintr ble note all of its peculiarities, alter wiiich take several iiicasiircs of it, for in tiiai way you can ascertain to a reasonable certainty, liow wide or iiow long ciirli part is. W c have found in practice that nearly all designs are made on about an i-inch scale, hence if the measure taken on the picture be multiplied b\' eigiit, it will be very close to the exact length or width. l"or instance if any part should measure J of an inch in the picture, it will be quite safe to call it 2 inches. All lines, etc., on "designing block", which arc to represent diflcrent features of the skirt, after being carefully sketched out, should then be made quite heavy and plain, so that they can be easily seen tlirough the pattern paper, which siiould always be thin enough so that the lines, etc., can easily be traced. By using diflerent colored pencils or crayon when designing or by using full lines for one design and dots or dashes for another, quite a variety of skirts can be sketched on the same block, before it would be necessary to provide a new one, or do any erasing. The ne.xt move should be to pin the thin pattern paper se- TO TRACE PATTERN curely to the "designing block" and then mark or trace with FROM DESIGN wheel, each line, etc., appearing there, on this pattern paper. If sketch consist of pleats, yoke or some other design con- nected with yoke, would advise that they be traced out first, and then cut away from remainder of pattern. Then mark or trace the lines intended for pleats, tlien fold, and pin each one as soon as folded, so as to keep them in position over lines in design. Continue the process of tracing lines and folding pleats until skirt is completed, when yoke part may be pinned back on to pleated portion, and the whole skirt be measured, trimmed and in every way made to conform, at waist, hip and lower edge, to measures previously taken. The following table gives the exact number of lines necessary to be drawn on circular, exclusive of outline, when drafting skirts containing from 21 to 32 gores inclusive. TABLE GIVING NUMBER OF LINES in 21 to 32 GORE SKIRT 21 gore skirt draw 9 lines thro Circular FoundationJ22 gore skirt draw 9 lines thro Circular Foundation 23 25 27 29 31 with seam in center of front 24 " " 10 " 26 " " ,, << 28 " " 12 " " - < 30 " " ,3 ,. 32 " " 14 " All pleated or tucked skirts can be successfully cut after a PLEATED OR pattern drafted in the manner above described, as sufficient TUCKED SKIRTS material, for both length and breadth, will be thus amply pro- vided for. Box pleats, which are always more or less in vogue, can be used not only to give pleasing effect, but to provide greater breadth to skirt as well. These pleats, in skirts, should be made about Ih inches wide at top, and 3 inches at bottom of skirt. W hen greater width of skirt, from knee down is required, fold and then attach two or more box pleats, when if skirt is split underneath them, they will add considerably to its width. m m ^i For Agency, Prices or Other Particulars, see General Agent or address ^ W. R. WILLIAMS, Proprietor and Manofacttircr, 1535 Mass. St., LAWRENCE, KANSAS. ^^^^^1 m^ ' V . LIBRftRY OF CONGRES:* ■ i 014 063 ! 853 5 •