>ITAT DEUJ /=?// Class B6ok_£^£ GofiyrightN?. ^* P¥ ^ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. |)ictttrc$()uc ^rijra. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. Being the Result of Travels and Observations in Arizona During the Fall and Winter of 1877. By E. CONKLIN, Representative of the National Associated Press and Artist and Correspondent of Frank Leslie's Publications. ILLUSTRATED BY THE Continent Stereoscopic Company, of New York, PUBLISHERS, No. 60 Nassau Street. $ew ¥orh : the mining record printing establishment, No. 61 BROADWAY 1878. CIS" P3 Cf^DU " jf.ntered according to act of Congress, in the year 1878, By E. Conklin, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D.C. ELECTROTYPED BY CRUM & RINGLER, NEW YORK. 1 TO THE ^mm$ imfl £m\tm$mtn oi ray ffiountnj, WHOM I HAVE LEAKNED TO HOLD IN HIGH ESTEEM, THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED By the Author. P R E F A C E My book is a, preface to Arizona. Let those who would know my "Preface" read, my book. The Author here acknowledges valuable aid and cur- tisies in gaining information for this book to the follow- ing named persons : — Ex. Gov. A. P. K. Safford of Arizona ; Col. J. D. Graham, of the Toltee Syndicate of mines, San Fran- cisco ; Col. R. J. Ilinton, of the Evening Post, San Fran- cisco, California ; Col. Wni G. Boyle and Dr. II. R. Allen, of the Aztec Mining Company ; Lieut. Geo. M. Wheeler of United States Corps of Engineers; Major J. W. Powell, of the United States Geological and Geo graphical Surveys ; George Tyng, Editor of the Yuma Sentinel. TABLE OF CONTENTS, CHAPTER I. Return to San Francisco— The allurements of the "Baldwin"— The Invita tion from the Aztec Mining Company— The Preparations— Whiskey Looking-glasses, and Starched Shirts— Interviewed at the Depot— The Scene from Oakland page 17 CHAPTER II. Off for Arizona— Scenes on the way— The Livermore Valley— Yosemite— The Great Tehachapl Pass— The Orange Districts— Across the Desert to Fort Yuma . page 25 CHAPTER III. My Arrival at Yuma— Description of the Town— Its Former History— The Coming Sanitarium— Dr. Loryea's Opinion— The Railroad Enterprise- Its Vicissitudes— A Watchful Guardian of the Night— Lo! the poor Indian page 38 CHAPTER IV. The Arrival of the Aztec Mining Company— The Denizens of Yuma— We break our fast— Tho Excitement over our mules— The " Yosemite " and "Thorough-bred ! " page 50 CHAPTER V. Arizona, the Future Country of the Student, and the Husbandman— The Fertile Valleys of the Plain— The Unique Barrenness of the Desert- Sunday morning at Ehrenberg— The Mojave Indians— The Mountain Panorama Scenes page 70 10 CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI. Gila City— A Frontier Hotel— Taking the Census— Celestial Phenomena- Meditation— A Setting Sun in Arizona ,.^ 84 CHAPTER VII. The Mirage— A City not Built with Hands— Onward from Gila— The Sagu- ara— The Sturdy Sentinel of the Plain— The Mesquite— The Palo-verde —A Desert rife with Growth 101 CHAPTER VIII. A Desert which is not all Desert— From Dos Palms to Prescott— Sensations on the Desert — A Southern Moon — Sand Storms— A City of the Desert — Breathing Air— Silver Threads and Golden Nuggets 116 CHAPTER IX. Mining Capital in Arizona — The " McCracken "— " The Hannibal "— " The Stonewall Jackson "—The Great Prospectors, McMillen and Flournoy— "Dead Broke" — Cinnabar, Copper, and Tin — Arizona! why so long lain mute ? 130 CHAPTER X. Narratives of early Arizona— Bloody Deeds and the Apaches— Eskimenzen —Cochise— Witchcraft— Habits of life— Reform— Who is to blame ?.. .149 CHAPTER XI. Ehrenberg— A lonely " Village of the Plain "—Painful Thoughts— Corona- tion Peak— The Goddess of the Valley— No Endowment Policy— Interest, Contrast, and Beauty— To the Land of Hemp, Cotton and Rice 168 CHAPTER XII. Antelope Peak— A Night's Companion— " Lone Peaks "—A Gold Story— Oatmans Flat— Freight Trains of the Desert— Pedros Pintardos 181 CHAPTER XIII. The Salt River Valley— Lost on a Desert—" Happy Camp "—A Dollar Drink —Water, twenty-five cents— The Bed in the Manger — Mule, versus Man —Important Considerations— Montezuma or Washington, Which ?. . .207 CONTENTS. 11 CHAPTER XIV. The Indian— The Pimo— The Maricopa— The Papago — The Zuni— The Moqui— The Apache— Their Diversity 223 CHAPTER XV. The Zuni and Moqui— The Model American Indian— Their Villages— Mode of Life— Morals— Rebecca at the Well— Games and Pastimes— A Sacred Rite— Shrewdness— Hospitality 239 CHAPTER XVI. The Moqui and Zuni, continued— Their Dress— Manufactures— Govern- ment — The Seven Cities of Cibola— The Ark, again— A present from President Lincoln— That Persistent Mission— Major Powell's Descrip- tion 256 CHAPTER XVII. The Antiquity of these Indians — Arizona's Vicissitudes — Conquered at last — America's Dark Age:? — A Costly Bonfire— Prescott— Humboldt— Ban- croft— To tho Land of Ancient Lore by Rail ! 275 CHAPTER XVIII. The Great Casa Grande— Impressions— A Palace, Castle, or What— A Bil- lowy Sea of Green— The Puzzle of Puzzles 281 CHAPTER XIX. Florence— Its Uniqueness— Anxiety for Col. Graham— False Alarm— Mod- ern Ruins— Tho Old Mission Buildings— San Xavler Del Bac 303 CHAPTER XX. The Tolling of a Contrite Bell The Knell of Parting Power— Alone with the Spirits ol Centuries— Tubac— The Mission Ruins of Saint Joseph — Tumaoacorl— The S-uata Cruz Valley 302 CHAPTER XXI. Leaving Tubac— The Nineveh of America— Silver lined and Verdure clad— The Dawn of Arizona— Bold Mountain Scenery— Tho Santa Ritas— Their Mines 308 12 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXII. The El Picachos— The Land of Massacres- -Cochise — Mountain Cavern— A Talking Mines— A Dream of "Waterfalls, Valleys, Canyons, and Caves. 314 CHAPTER XXIII. The Meeting of the Mountains— Arizona's Natural Wonders— The Micro- cosm of the World — The Colorado— Its Canyons— Its Plateaus— Its Ca- prices—A Home for the Repeater— The Indian Guides of the Colorado— —A River that tells no Tales 322 CHAPTER XXIV. Remarkable Ruins in Southern Arizona— The Founders of the Aztec and Toltec Syndicates of mines — The Grandest Pecuniary Success on Record— The "Bollas De Plata" (Balls of Silver)— Col. J. D. Graham. 330 CHAPTER XXV. From Camp Apache, Northeast— A Land full of interest— A Great Agricul- tural and Mineral Belt Combined 350 CHATTER XXVI. My Departure from Tucson — Admonitions — The Jehus cf the Plain — Ben Hill— Mind and Matter— A Tale of Love and Woe— All for Gold— The Highwayman 355 CHAPTER XXVII. Spirit of the Desert— The Author Robbed— Penniless— The Meeting of McMillen and Josiah Fournoy— The Proverbial Sympathy of the Pioneer 366 ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGK. " The Baldwin" of San Francisco Frontispiece Red Rock Pass on the Colorado River above Yuma— The Chimney Peaks in the distance 14 A Scene in the Orange Groves of E. J. Baldwin, Esq 33 Indians taking their Sun-bath at Yuma 43 An Indian Belle of the Yuma Indians 49 Indian Group 53 Getting ready for a prospecting tour 60 An Indian in to wn G4 An Indian watching the approach of Emigrants on the plains of Arizona . 72 A Mojave Indian Chief at Ehrenberg 76 Mojave Indians at Ehrenberg taking their Sunday walk 80 Map of the ancient province of Tusayan, Arizona 83 An Indian Warrior 87 Preecott 91 Tucson 97 Valley of Santa Cruz, (From Hinton'a Hand-Book of Arizona) 103 The Proposed Hotel and Plaza at Calabasas Valley of Santa Cruz Ill A Miner's vicissitudes In Arizona 136 Charles McMillen and Josiah Flournoy 140 Ready for a Scalp 152 An Apache Chief 160 An Apache Squaw and Papoose 101 Tho City of Ehrenberg— Looking up tho Colorado Rivpr— Indians at play 1C 9 A Mojave Indian and boy at Ehrenberg 178 A View of the Colorado at Yuma 177 " Lone Peaks," on the road from Ehrenberg to Prescott 163 A Midnight Camp of tho Apaches in the Pelonchillo Mountains, Arizona 188 14 ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE. Rocky Canyons and Mesa lands of Arizona 192 The Continent Stereoscopic Company's Artist "viewing " in Arizona. . . 200 The Painted Rocks (Pedros Pintardos) on the plains of Arizona 201 Scene in the Salt River Valley 207 The Region of the Thousand Wells, on a high rocky Mesa 209 Just in from the desert— getting ready for a good square meal 213 Papago Indian Women going to carry hay 222 A Maricopa Indian Girl picking berries 225 Pimo Indians at home 229 A Squad of Indians at a game of cards 233 An Unwelcome Visitor 238 Mi-shong-i-ni-vi— a village of the Moquis in North-eastern Arizona 241 Interior of an Oraibi house in the Moqui Villages 249 The Free Indian Girls, An-ti-naints, Pu-tu-su and Wi-chuts 253 The Terraced houses of Oraibi 257 Praying for Rain— a religious observance of the Moquis 261 An Indian Hunter 268 . A Scout of the Navajo's in northeastern Arizona 274 A Navajo Indian Boy 277 An Ancient War dance of the Apaches 279 Ruins of the Great Casa Grande in Southern Arizona 283 Ruins near the Great Casa Grande 287 The Mission of San Xavier del-Bac, located 9 miles south of Tucson 297 Old Mission Ruins of Tumacacori 303 A Street Scene of the Adobe Spanish Residences 305 Sand stone Formations, found in the Ravines of the Santa Rita Moun- tains 312 Butte in the upper Colorado Canon— Colorado River, Arizona 325 Marble Canon of the Colorado River 329 The Great Canon of. the Colorado River, Arizona 333 The " Toltec " mining camp in the Santa Rita Mountains 345 Stage Coach Robbery ^ 368 mm CHAPTER I. RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO— THE ALLUREMENTS OF THE " BALD- WIN " — THE INVITATION FROM THE AZTEC MINING COMPANY —THE PREPARATIONS— WHISKEY, LOOKING-GLASSES AND STARCHED SHIRTS— INTERVIEWED AT THE DEPOT— THE SCENE FROM OAKLAND. HAYING completed my labors as correspondent of the trans-continental tour, organized by Mr. Frank Leslie in the Spring of 77, in the interests of his many publications, I made known to him my long intended purpose of writing and illustrating Arizona — the most interesting of all our frontier territories. Long had this been a cherished desire of mine, and long had I, in my many trips to the coast kept an eagle eye on this obscure, but wonderful region. As jealously had I picked up from time to time all scraps and hear-sa}'s of this territory, as the ravens within its borders now pick up the morsels scattered by travelers 1 G PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. and mining parties. And now raven-like, I carry these scraps to all the world as a faithful messenger of the future great mineral State of America. I returned to San Francisco and in August made preparations for an extended tour through Arizona. No fitter time had ever presented itself for a represen- tation, digestion and general unraveling of Arizona's vast resources in all channels of human industries, than the completion of the Southern Pacific Eailroad to the Colorado Eiver, which was expected to take place the following month. A more propitious or favorably auspicious event will never probably be known in the history of that territory — except perhaps the purchase of the southern portion of it. To go to Arizona here- tofore and find what you wanted — where lo go, or how to go, reminded one of that emblematic hay stack and its needle. A double combination of events have transpired this fall which will be an era in the history of Arizona — the completion of the Southern Pacific Railroad on its way across the territory, which takes you to this hay stack, and Col. R J. Hinton's Hand Book and Guide, which enables the traveler to unrav- el that hay stack and find the needle when he is once there ; and the object of this book is to show you the PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 19 merits of your particular needle when found, whether you be a miner in search of mines, a farmer in search of fertile valleys, or a tourist or scientist in search of the beauties or wonders of nature. Again in San Francisco, and the very recollections of the luxuries of its famous Baldwin Hotel seem to allure us to the spot and already stimulate us to new ambition. The soothing quiet of this hotel is a mar- vel even in the nucleus of the most brilliant hotel achievements in the world. Never was there a com- bination of such rare and rich material brought togeth- er in such perfect and complete harmony. This hotel is the most attractive institution under that name that ever decked American soil. We feel free to say it. It is an allurement to all travelers and tourists who have once seen it. While in San Francisco preparing for a new depar- ture, I received an invitation from Col. J. D. Graham, Secretary of the Aztec Mining Company of Arizona, to accompany him and his party on an extended tour through southern Arizona, to the mines of the compa- ny. I appreciated this, knowing that to the indomitable pluck and energy of the members of this company, were due some of the greatest mining enterprises and 20 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. achievements in the territory ; and I accepted, knowing that their mines lie in the Santa Rita Mountains, one of the richest mining sections in the State, and their course through some of the richest valleys, thereby affording me ample facilities for learning of what I would know. Favors, like crosses, thought I, never come singly. So I arranged to meet the party subse- quently at Yuma. I left San Francisco amid all the vicissitudes conse- quent upon going on a big trip. I felt this spirit of bigness — of vastness, forcing itself upon me ; not so much, that the trip itself was to be a long one, but of the interest and importance that the completion of the Southern Pacific Railroad to Arizona was ushering into existence. Although I had plenty of time, as the moment approached for me to depart, I found I had fallen a victim to that treacherous "last moment" which had, with its wonted subtleness crept unawares upon me, and like a thief in the night, found me asleep. The express called for my trunk ; I tried to squeeze two seconds into one, forgetting the lesson in applied philosophy learned when j^oung, that no two things could occupy the same space at the same time. Being intuitively reminded of this by some automatic PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 21 faculty of the mind — reason I had none just then — I reverted to material things and tried to cram two shirts into the place one should occupy, which caused me to break a bottle of whiskey that I was taking along for the Indians, or medicinal purposes. I was sorry for this, because I had intended if I kept my health — and whiskey — in tact, to finally bestow it upon some of my red brothers, the Arizona Indians. I am a friend to the Indians. I rushed frantically about for something that would work on the capillary system, to wipe up the muss. I seized a towel from the bureau, and in turning quickly around, broke a glass which cost me ten dol- lars and fifty cents. Becoming exaspeiated, and with a spirit indefatiga- ble to conquer, I chucked — this is the best word just here — everything into my trunk promiscuously, re- solving to remodel things on the train, by bribing the baggage-master to let me have access to it there. The express man got my trunk and rushed off. I was too late for the " Bus," which is one of those emblemati- cally punctual institutions, especially when you hap- pen to be a few minutes behind. I took a horse- car. At the railroad office I called for my ticket for 22 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. Fort Yuma. I laid down my fifty dollars, and was to have received eight dollars in change, but I never knew, from that day to this whether I ever picked up that eight dollars or not; for at the utterance of the words " Fort Yuma," I was besieged by a dozen or more individ- uals wanting to know if I was actually going to Fort Yuma, and putting into a score of other questions all the qualifications of importance. They were enthu- siastic emigrants. They all wanted to hear from Fort Yuma ; and no less than half a dozen persons wanted me to write them each a private letter giving them a full description of the great mines of Arizona and New Mexico ; and how I thought turnips would grow there ; whether the Indians were as troublesome as they had been in the Black Hills ; whether cows could be milked three times a day, and whether jackasses could be sold for mules down there. These requests were all made with the familiarity of two strangers meeting in a foreign land. I promised all to give them the desired information. I justified my wilful false- hood by the satisfaction it afforded them for the mo- ment; and I justified my neglect to subsequently comply with their requests from the fact that not one of them offered me stamps for postage. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA 23 The cause of a greater portion of all my vicissitudes I trace back to the allurement I was under at the "Baldwin." We all know what an effect pleasing surroundings will have, to the neglect of sterner duties, causing the mind to swerve until it forgets itself and becomes dilatory, and reason itself becomes tossed and cannot at once find its equilibrium. Oh ! this allure- ment ! 01i ! the infatuation that makes mockery of self control. This fascination that causes one to miss trains, miss everything in life while under its influence. And yet they are the very allurements that we are most willing lo be charmed by. But we are really justified in them in exemplification of our nature, as explained in Romans 7th and 15th : "Forwhatl woukh that do I not ; but what I hate, lhat do I.'' In twenty minutes we had spanned the bay of San Francisco to Oakland, where all passengers for South- ern California and Arizona lake the trains of the Cen- tral Pacific Railroad. Oakland has been so long com- pared to the Brooklyn of New York in its proximity to San Francisco, that it has become typical of it. The concourse of people swarming like bees and increasing fiom day to day as they aie, to almost incapacitated proportions, makes good the similitude. 24 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. The train stood waiting at the Oakland wharf hiss- ing of! its virulent steam, anxious for a start. The evening was inexpressibly charming, under the mellow light of an Occident setting sun. I took my seat in the sleeping car, and scanning the bay of San Francisco, beheld the glorious scene which has become the em- blem of the city ; the pride of its people ; and the joy of the traveler and tourist — a setting sun at the Grolden Gate ! And I must here waive the old adage, not to give advice until one had been " thrice asked for it" and proffer it to all travelers, not to miss this phan- tomed "halo. CHAPTER II. OFF FOR ARIZONA— SCENES ON THE WAY— THE LlVERMORE VAL- LEY — YOSEMITE — THE GREAT TEHACHAPI PASS — THE OR- ANGE DISTRICTS— ACROSS THE DESERT TO FORT YUMA. BY the time ray spirits had been mellowed down into their accustomed equilibrium, the time had come to depart. " Klick-cr-de-klick ; chit-er-de-chat: chit-er-de-chat; kliek-er-de-klick," rattled our ladened train over the wonderful Meiggs wharf which ex tended two and a quarter miles out across the bay Klick-er-de-kliek, chit-er-de-chat, rolled our car wheels like the prattle of a lot of merry school girls let loose and had the same effect of merriment upon its listen ers. Then the old smoke-stack bellowed forth " Hush/ — Hush ! — Hush ! — ush ! — ush ! — ush ! — ush sh, sh, sh, sh, sh," as if warning his charge against useless gossip, and admonishing them not to make such a noise. 26 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. Thus we sped, twenty miles away, across the charm- ing Livermore valley — one of the chosen spots of Cali- fornia's richest soils. If one's spirits are in a raffled state as mine had been, "these sights and these sounds "would prove a soothing balm. As we approached the end of this valley, which nar- rowed down to about the width of a good sized farm, we felt that one of the Eldorados of our trip had been seen. All the diversity for the richest rural effects and of husbandly, were here combined. "We had seen the sweet maiden daughter of the hardy husbandman, standing in the threshold of his humble cottage ad- miring with unwitting zeal, the fruits of her sire's sturdy arm and sweaty brow. One charming picture particularly attracted my notice. A maiden of some fourteen Summers, with her golden hair flowing over her shoulders, and a neat, clean pin-a-fore clasping jealously her form, stood on one of these thresholds, breathing the balmy atmosphere from the mountains wafted over the waving corn and blooming wheat, from which it received its perfume. As the train passed, this little creature pulled from a pocket in her apron her handkerchief, and waved it. This was the I'lCJTKESQUE ARIZONA. 27 climax of this valley scene. Perhaps the handker- chief had something to do with it. "We all know how far this token of welcome, as a flag of truce, will put new life into the soul. Behind the little hamlet, rose a spur of the mountains, one peak of which seemed the maiden's special guardian. On wc sped through the Canyon : witnessed the shades of evening trans- formed into Luna's night, and arrived at Merced, the place of departure for the Yosemite valley, just be- fore midnight. Many left our train here. The name of Yosemite has not ceased to allure, nor its sights to charm. I was a little allured myself, but as the train moved on, I contented myself by reciting the lines contributed to fair Tissaack's abode while with the Leslie party, when we were there in the Spring. We had, on that occasion just reached the summit of the Sierras from which we were to descend into the valley. Yosemite ! How wells the heart, When o'er the Sierras' summit height, The sense of sight, to the soul imparts Fair nature's gift, this grand, this gorgeous sight. Behold ! we near the crested edge ; Our every breath held by a spell. We fain would make a solemn pledge, To all the world this vision tell. 2S PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. Down ! down ! the mountain's side we prance, Each steed, sure-footed, marks his pace. To the right — to the left — yes, all around, Bold rocks command, and waters run their race. To the left, "El Capitan " rears its ponderous head, Carved out by some gigantic power ! To the right, " Fort Rocks " commands the valley front, Beneath lies Tissaack's chosen bower. Down in the very depths of this colossal vale Hemmed in by sybil's choicest charms, Our soul would break from its fettered chains And with its praise, the mortal man disarm. With hair unfurled and ribbon tossed, Across the " Bridal " stream we bound, And with hats in hand we give one shout ! For our Mecca we have found. In the night the train enters the Tehachapi Pass — enters, as it were the last remnants of chaos; enters one of nature's grandest caprices; as treacherous as it is wonderful, as interesting as it is beautiful, and as capricious as it is grand. The Tehachapi Pass is one of the greatest pieces of railroad engineering in the world. It includes, perhaps, the wonderful features of all other railroads combined. In this Pass, comprising adistance of nineteen miles, you have your high tressels, chasms, horse shoes, Cape Horns, tunnels, &c, &c. In fact these things in them- selves constitute this entire section. The train will FJCTU RESCUE ARIZONA, 29 jump from mountain dome to pinnacle; from peak to peak, with as much agility as a man on the trapeze. In the last mile of this section the train passes through five tunnels. By the curves and the angles, the cross- ing of ravines, and the rounding of pinnacles; with high towering mountains on the one side, and precip- itous gorges on the other ; all theories of trigonometry and the calculus are demonstrated, and practically too. The locomotive fairly plays tag with the tail end of the train in the wildest commotion. You are held spell- bound. In its fury Mr. Smokestack again belches forth its Hush, Hush, Hush, as if warning you to hold your breath and not venture a whisper until we are over safely. Standing on some of the elevations over which the train passes, in this wild and elevated re- gion, a most imposing view of the surrounding coun- try may be had. It suggests that the whole of God's footstool might be comprehended, so vast is the ex- tent. The eye peers over hill, dale, mountain peaks and ranges, until it is lost in its own vision, and seems to comprehend infinity. How grand the sensation ! How your soul grasps — pants, for just a something more. From Yosemite to Tehachapi your mind re- verts. We have often heard how the West in its broad 30 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. expanse, captures the emigrant and traveler in mind and spirit, and weans him from his eastern home. We have all tried to define what this influence is; I think it is just such scenes as this. As the mind, in compre- hending and retaining its mental observations, and as the field becomes broader and he clings to those obser- vations with a zeal proportionate to its vastness, so does the soul expand with what it sees, in proportion to its own vastness. How often this condition forces itself upon the traveler in Arizona. And perhaps this is the reason one finds so many whole-souled men in this interesting Territory. Many of them were perhaps whole-souled before they went there, but we are rather inclined to think the most of them have become so from the very soul-spirit of all nature in this beacon land. As the mind is wont to grasp after what lies beyond its present sphere, so does the emigrant and the trav- eler jealously long for the blessing, the freedom, the liberty, the wide expanse, that these scenes suggest to his nature. The traveler takes a last, lingering look at the re- gion of the Tehachapi Pass, this being the last moun- tainous scenery until he reaches Central Arizona. This region is commonly known as the famous TICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 31 "Loop,'' from the fact that in circling itself, it crosses its own track to reach a high elevation of mountain. At daylight you strike a portion of the great Mo- jave Desert, the word "desert" striking dimly on your ear, and feeding the mind with imaginary evils always associated with that name. This gradually dies away, however, with the remarkable and interest- ing characteristics peculiar to the so-called desert, gleaned later from our facetious friends — the pioneers and frontiersmen of our countr , and from, the natives. A chapter on the deserts of our country will be found in its proper place. Further south four hundred and seventy miles from San Francisco, the far famed orange region is reached. The conglomerate city oi Los Angeles tells 3^011 of the adventurous days of the chivalrous Fremont. Eisdit miles below Los Angeles you pass through the fertile San Gabriel Valley, where the greatest orange groves of the State thrive in luxurious splendor Here are located the great orange groves of E. J. Baldwin, Esq. All kinds of semi-tropical fruits are raised on this ranch, which covers sixteen thousand acres. One of the original aims of Mr. Baldwin was to sup- ply his own culinary wants of the hotel. This self 32 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. sustaining principle enables him, in adding to the luxuries of his hotel, to do so at a less cost than any other method, or in other words, to give a greater amount of luxuries for the same price. This system of Mr. Baldwin's explains the query made by the many patrons of his house, " How can he afford to run this extravagance at the regular hotel rate? " To get an invitation from Mr. Baldwin to visit his ranch in Southern California, and to actually visit lt f is a treat, and one can get an extended and — ex- alted did we say — at least a flattering idea of a bonan- za farm of Southern California. On this ranch or farm can be found all products indigenous to tho coast Mr. Baldwin has, also, other ranches in different parts of the State. The orange blossoms and groves throw their fragrance broadcast through the air and with their emblematic influences, charm the senses. An orange tree in blossom is a gorgeous sight. "Gorgeous sight," did I say? Well! it depends. To some, each blossom is transformed into a little cupid plumed and armed, and holding high carnival in the tree top : while to many these are, by some misordained condition of nature, transformed into lit- tle devils. Owing to the present jogging condition ^"mmmm PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 35 of the world, this orange growing section will not loose its interest for some time to come. We are told of both young and old having fainted at the sight and perfume of this marital emblem. At least, we can say by our own experience, a drive from Los Angeles to the beach at Santa Monica through the orange groves, is a most condign place for a young man, who wants to have a lady faint in his arms. One hundred miles south of Los Angeles you cross the great Colorado desert. Although a desert, this vast tract of county is full of interest. But of these interests in desert traveling we will speak in connec- tion with our journey through Arizona. On this desert, shorn, if not of its name, at least of its terrors, by the annihilating iron horse, and the civ- ilizing palace car, one gets the first intimation of the peculiar scenery of Arizona Looking from the cat- window to the east, a distant range of mountains, different from anything } r ou have, perhaps, ever seen, attracts you. " Domes and half domes, Pinnacles and peaks; " truncated cones, pyramids and spires ; castles in the air (with solid foundations, which none but a strong 36 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. miner's will can move) with bases of hidden gold and silver, salute you. This is the scene that contrasts so forcibly with your desert. And this variety is what makes the desert so interesting in itself. We all know the charm of variety — of change. In the direction you are now looking lies the famous " Needles " of the great Colorado Kiver. In the distance are the famous "Chimney Peaks ; " further down is the " Cas- tle Dome ; " and by imagination's sweet charm, or in recollection's powerful cast, you see the capricious, the whimsical, the wonderful Colorado Kiver. This is the view that greets the traveler's eye and cheers his spirit as he nears Arizona, and for three hours before reaching her initial point, Yuma. Let it be in the grey of the morning, and the peculiar hazy blue, like a sea vapor that hems the different mounts and ranges in, reminds you of the Blue Mountains of Jamaica in the West Indies. Let it be in the eve- ning's golden hue of an Arizona sunset, and the rug- ged outline fringed with gold and crimson, and the whole fretting on the azure blue of the firmament, is a scene to charm the soul and puzzle the senses. From here I started to make a two month's tour through the northern part of the Territory, the results PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 37 of which will be embodied throughout my book in connection with my southern trip ; and from which trip I returned to Yuma on the first day of December to await the arrival of the Aztec party. CHAPTER III. MY ARRIVAL AT YUMA — DESCRIPTION OP THE TOWN — ITS FOR- MER HIISTORY — THE COMING S ANITARIUM— DR . LORYEA'S OPINION — THE RAILROAD ENTERPRISE— ITS VICISSITUDES— A WATCHFUL GUARDIAN OF THE NIGHT — LO ! THE POOR INDIAN. HERE I am at Yuma! and while waiting for the arrival of the Aztec party, I will contemplate some, the land I am going to roam. That part of the Territory of Arizona over which our travels were now to extend, was acquired by the Gadsden purchase from Mexico in 1853 ; and, save the regret that the instrument of purchase did not record a section of country as far south as Guaymas, which would have given us a port on the Gulf of California — a "Golden Gate" to Arizona — the pur- chase was a most condign and satisfactory one. At the time of the purchase, Mr. Gadsden did not re- ceive himself, this compliment from the people, but PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 39 rather abuse and ridicule; an abuse evidently given from ignorance. This suggests how often chastise- ment is given in ignorance. How long — Oh ! how long, will the human race — that noble race — that man — in his vast s}^stem of philosophy, education and sci- ence — that being with a reputed psychological exis- tence, be elevated to know how, when, and where to chide. Then indeed will our God-soul be elevated toward its rightful sphere. Then will judges be well deserving the potent " Honorable," and, the preachers claim "Reverend" to their names. Then will parents make men and women of their offspring, and be truly proud of their issue. As it is, where is the man who would dare originality or individuality to the lull extent of what his experience, education and good- will would seem to urge, for fear of reprimand from an unphilosophic world ? There are a few such ; they die persecuted — perhaps a martyred death for the benefit of an enriched and selfish world ; while that world lives the very embodiment and verification of the sheep element ; following where they have been led, and grazing on the products of a good and fer- tile soil. Poor Arizona ! How near you came to being lost to us. But Ho! for Arizona! is our senti- 40 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. ment now. Although in many places in our country, within certain limits are combined so great a variety of climate and topography that one may in certain sections, experience all the diversity of traveling abroad; especially is this applicable to the southern portion of the Pacific coast. In one short day you come from the snows of the Sierra to the tropic of the desert, where in July the thermometer will range about an average of 120° Fahr. in the shade, and 170° in the sun. One peculiar feature of Arizona's climate might be mentioned here. Although the thermometer may often range much higher than in some other known place, the heat is felt very much less. An incident of mine will amply illustrate the fact. In '73 I went to Southern Cali- fornia for the first time; I had some friends whom I visited and who were farmers. Having once lived on a farm, the inclination presented itself to me to see how much of my rural tuition I had, in my now rov- ing propensities, retained. I made a request to go into the hay field the next day, and help pitch hay a just to see how it felt" as I said, "after a fifteen years rest." The next day I was told by my friend in an insinuative sort of way that it was going to be a very PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 41 hot day he thought, and he did not think an eastern man like me could stand it to work in the sun. Now this was the very worst thing he could have said to me if he had not wanted me to go, for I always pride myself on my physical strength and powers of endur- ance. I was bound to go. I worked until noon, and pitched hay all the time too. The thermometer, I learned when we went to the house to dinner, was 118° Fahr. I could not believe it at first. I had suffered some from the heat — in fact con- siderable. But it was rather a burning, outward heat as from the rays of the sun ; and not an inward bodily heat as if suffocating. And although I perspired freely, the big drops rolling down my cheeks and brow, I did not suffer as much, nor feel as fatigued, as when walking in New York under a thermometer of 95 degrees in the month of July or August. This is the nature of the heat in these locations. The rarity and dryness of the atmosphere, it is well known, is the chief cause for this favorable condition, and especially has Arizona these qualifications. When a person hears another speak of the thermometer being 110° or 115° in Southern California or Arizona, 42 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. lie must not imngine that those "poor mortals " there are suffering what he would be in New York or Balti- more under a thermometer of 90°. Yuma itself, in conjunction with the Colorado River which runs along side, from the cause jusi alluded to, is Nature's Russian or Turkish bath. The very Indians take their sun bath here every dny. For centuries this people have been reclining at certain times of day on their heated sand-mounds, at a high temperature, and checking the heat by a plunge in the cooling waters of the Colorado. For centuries they have been working wondrous cures from the aid of these medical properties of the soil and atmosphere. A private letter written me con- cerning this location as a natural Sanitarium, by Dr. A. M. Loryea, M. D. of the celebrated Hammam baths of San Francisco, comprehends some of the principal merits. Dr. Loryea says : « * * * * My experiences in Arizona were very sat- isfactory. The heat there, though high, is endura- ble in consequence of the dryness — hence its adapta- bility as a place of residence to those afflicted with Renal affections, especially Bright's Disease of the Kidneys. The skin acting vicariously for the lungs, exhaling carbonic acid and absorbing oxygen, Con- INDIANS TAKING THEIR SUN-BATH AT YUMA. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 45 sumptives would there find relief. One does not take cold and my patients there in the last stages of renal and lung affections slept out of doors all and every night with perfect freedom. Malaria does not exist in Yuma, so that we have every advantage obtainable for invalids and hence many term it 'Nature's Turk- ish Bath, ' or the great Sanitarium of America ; and patients who may visit these need not 'abandon hope ' but have every assurance if not being cured of their " many thousand ills that flesh is heir to " but at least of being ameliorated and measurably benefitted. Of course all class of affections, such as Rheumatism, Sci- atica and Neuralgia are resolved by the heats of Yuma;' On the Colorado River, ninety miles from its mouth, and on its east bank, is located the old city of Yuma, in Arizona. On the opposite shore, or California side, on a high elevation, is situated Fort Yuma. This location which has heretofore lain mute with a history that perhaps rarely extended beyond its own domain, except by an occasional exploring party, or an inhab- itant who had fortunately made his escape from the ravages of Indians or Mexican desperadoes, has now gained for itself a place in the history of the Pacific Coast. 40 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. On the 29th of September— of the year, 1877 — this point became the present terminus of the South- ern Pacific Eailroad of California. Since that time the two great signals that govern the destinies of armies, have been called into requisition by the event. " Halt ! " and " Forward March ! " have been given with all the pomp and pomposity of military tactics. The occasion for these conditions seems to have been some misunderstanding between the military and civil authorities ; but this being; now settled, and the road fairly into Arizona, it is simply our pleasure to notice the likely results and interesting incidents from the fact. The likely results are that a complete, through, southern, trans-continental route will steal an exist- ence upon ns, as unawares, as did the first and origi- nal road across the Continent in '69. When we realize the vast interest, to all the different sciences, the two Territories of Arizona and New Mexico are constantly opening up to the geologist as a mining district; and to the historian, in the different races of human beings suggested by the many and unique ruins constantly being discovered, we hail the event. The legendary spirit connected with many of these PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 47 old arid pre-historic ruins, is interesting beyond de- . gree ; and the subject so engrossing that we dare not attempt a description in this present limited space. The bridge over the Colorado looms in plain sight to the inhabitants of both sides of the river, a lasting monument of the indomitable pluck adextremum, of the American people. The completion of this bridge was associated with some pleasing incidents on the night of September 29th. From the misunderstanding between civil and military authorities before alluded to, orders were issued to the military headquarters at Fort Yuma, not to allow any of the Southern Pacific's rolling stock whatever, to cross the Colorado River, and to stop the construction of the bridge. Sentinels were placed at the bridge to keep vigilance. Nobly did our country's servant perform his duty until his bed time came. Then all was ''quiet on the : ' Colorado. Our sentinel slackened his martial tread, and stooped to catch the slightest sound; and in the stillness of the night, the yelp of a stealthy coyote, or the screech of a hawk was his only reward, except perhaps, the snore of the bridge-engineers, which in this case must have been a little unnatural, as it was 48 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. feigned. Thinking that "all was well," our sentinel thought to steal a little sleep. No sooner had lie suc- cumbed to his own alluring thoughts, than the same surreptitious spirit to "steal" was evinced by the sturdy engineers. In a moment, they were " to arms " or rather to their tools ; stole a march, and in the space of three short hours the last quarter of a mile of track was laid, including a section of one of the most substantial bridges on the coast. Well did they steal their march. And well, do we think, our sen- tinel must have slept. The right of way to this Com- pany for crossing the Colorado ended on the following day, the 30th of September. On the 29th at eleven o'clock at night, they ran the first steam cars over this bridge from California into Arizona. Since then, it has been authentically decided that they had the right to do so, and the work of extending the road on through Arizona is about to commence with the same indomitable pluck characterizing the road to its pres- ent terminus. Distance often gives an erroneous interpretation, as well as an enchantment. We think this is somewhat the case with Yuma. Yuma is the new name for Arizona City. It is not an Indian village ; though AN INDIAN BELLE OF THE YUMA INDIANS. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA 51 an Indian village exists contiguous to it, and a full representation of the old Yuma tribes constitute an equal half of its daily population. Blanketed and half -nude Indians associate as intimately with the whites (what few there are here) as do the Mexicans themselves. The town itself, is strictly of Mexican origin, and savors of all the looseness and primitiveness charac- teristic of the smaller, out-of-the-way towns in the .Republic of Mexico. Standing on the promontory where the fort is lo- cated on the California side, and looking over, and at an angle of perhaps 20°, one sees a mass of one story buildings, built of adobe, and roofed with mud, the floors of which were originally the ground, but which have been, by the more thrifty foreigners of all classes recently arrived, replaced by board ones. Some are whitewashed, and present a cleanly appearance; while others are the embodiment of the filth of the greaser. One or two genuine Span- ish houses built in the quadrangular form with the garden plot in the center, and two stories high with a veranda, where flower-stands bedecked with flowers, cheer this otherwise barren place. The town of Yuma 52 riCTURESQUE ARIZONA. was first founded about 1855, and was then called Colorado City. In 1858 it contained about half a dozen bouses, according to Ives' report on government explorations. The name was then changed to Arizona City, and afterwards to Yuma City, in honor of the government fort across the river. It now numbers about two thousand people of all classes, including Indians. The hour of eight, every morning now, when the train comes in, is an interesting one in Yuma. There is then congregated, with eager eyes, Indians, Chinese, Americans; Jew, Gentile, and Pagan. In fact, most every nation and condition of men on the earth, one might be inclined to say, is represented. The same conglomeration, characteristic of all embryo places of the West, is here seen. It seems to us that now would be a good time for the stud}^ of the Psychologist in Yuma, as it is interesting to the traveler. At night the Indian huts and camp fires may be seen glimmering around the city. As one approaches ihese and sees, crouched together, a handful of half- clothed, beggarly Indians, a feeling of sadness steals over him. They will sit with stoic stillness and stare at vou with an awe-stricken exoression INDIAN tta>v. riCTURESQUE ARIZONA. 137 mountaineer, and felt, as has often been my wont to feel when in contact witli some of the brilliant minds of our frontiersmen, that there was a comprehension of facts there that I myself might profit by ; and in my anxiety to grasp and retain the full meaning and force that lit up his penetrating e} 7 e as lie finished, I simply said : — ''Yes, I think so." I was waiting: for some brilliant exposition of this man's experience, which I had so often got from the pioneers of our frontier country. " Well ! You see, 1 ' continued lie, "I had been rov- ing about this country and in these mountains ever since '55, when T struck this little affair up here that we are talking about. I had put my foot on several others and I'm keeping it there for a while" added he, with a twinkle in his eye, u I had put my foot on some others I say, and better ones. But I thought this little one would do to raise some money on to work the rest. You see I was broke — dead broke. Couldn't get trusted for an onion or a slice of bacon ; had to wash the only shirt I had to my name, and had to sit under a bush in the shade while the shirt was drying on top in the sun. I wanted money to devel- op and open up my other mines; and I would have 138 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. taken — (here McMillen's band came down on his knee with a powerful thump) I would have taken half the amount I got, if I couldn't have got what I did. although I knew the mine itself was worth more." The whole course of operation and the politic man- ner and means of securing the success of such opera- tions, showed itself to me at once. I had now become interested in both the mines and the miner. " I suppose then, you are now opening up some of your new mines," said I. "Well, that depends upon what you call 'opening up.' We are just sending down fifty thousand dollars worth of machinery to commence on — my partner, Mr. Flournoy and myself. We are now at work on the ' Hannibal.'* This is an extension of the ' Stone- wall Jackson ' lode, and we expect to show the Stone- wall people that — well! that they might have got more for their money, if the Stonewall had extended along over the Hannibal." "But how many mines have you discovered in all? " inquired I. "Let me see " said he thoughtfully. " There is the 'Stonewall Jackson ,' the 'Florence,' the ' Alenaden ' * The " Hannibal " is now one of the richest mines in Arizona. PICTURESQUE A.BIZONA. 141 tlie ' Little Mac,' the 'Leo,' the ' 220' and, last but not least, the 'Hannibal.' Oli ! Yes, there is another one, the ' First N. E. Extension to the Hannibal' — eight in all. There are a few others, but I don't re- call them at present." The perseverance, indomitable pluck and persis- tency of these two men, are fairtypesoi what Arizona wants for her development; and in both their faces may be detected force of character, and that power of will that can " remove mountains," as well as the gold and silver that is in them. Mr. Flournoy is a native of Georgia and is a man whose popularity in Arizona is making liini a fast and sure exponent of the devel- opment of that Territory. His sterling integrity has become proverbial. With Mr. McMillen's indefatiga- ble ability as an original and successful prospector, and Mi - . Floumoy's qualifications for disciplining and working a mine, a complete success is insured. Southeast again, into the Santa Kit.is, and the Oro Blanco, districts we Strike the " last but not least" of the mines of this great natural metalliferous be] t, which lies within the boundary of Arizona. We say "last out not teast," and support our claim with substantial evidence; for in a continuous course of tliesc moun- 142 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. tains over the boundary line, and into Sonora, you have what is, and has long been known as the greatest silver bearing country on the North American Conti- nent. In this section, a little to the east of the Santa Cruz valley, is the famous placer mines, long known to exist, in and around the Baboguivari Mountains. These stories are brought to us with the name of Col. J. D. Graham, another of Arizona's matchless pioneers and prospectors. Colonel Graham was one of the first explorers and discoverers of this wild and rugged re- gion, and knows this country "by the inch," as a traveling companion once remarked to me, and as subsequent facts concerning the developments, in the whole southwest given in another chapter, will fully demonstrate. It is said that this bold and daring pio- neer, when only twenty-two years of age, traveled on horse-back from the interior of Mexico to Arizona and California on special missions of trust. I will refer to the results of this man's accomplishments in a separate chapter devoted to ^ne opening up and wonderful developments of the southwest and its mines. The progress Arizona has made within the past few years, may be realized to some extent, by the fact that in 1877, she yielded up over four millions of PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 143 dollars in gold and silver. As a substantial defense for Arizona and her mines, the American Cyclopedia comes forth and says : — "No one of the mineral bearing Territories of the Pacific slope is richer than Arizona, though the mines have not been generally worked." Like stories, we have said confront the traveler on every hand in Arizona; and the most of them are sub- stantiated upon better acquaintance. Not only in re- lation to gold and silver are they confined ; but minerals of most all known usefulness are being discovered. Many such cases lie dormant for means of transporta- tion. With the introduction of the steam car and rail, a great " blockade" will be raised, and Arizona will flood the world with its riches. Our " Emma" mines will never rise to the surface again, and our "Crown Points" and " Consolidated Virginias " will sink much below. Even now it is a noted fact that mines which would receive much attention further north, ate al- lowed to lie undisturbed here. Copper enough exists in the mountain in the eastern part of the Territory, to cause one man alone to say that if he had railroad facilities, he would employ one thousand men in his mine. This is in the southeastern part of Yavapai 144 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. County. In another section evidences of tin are re- ported. Tin has never been discovered within the limits of the United States ; but it is of such importance that the government has offered a large reward to the discoverer of it. The probabilities for Arizona being the favored field are not without good foundation. South , in Sonora Count y, Mexico, tin has already been discovered in good paying quantities, but. like many good mineral products in this vastly rich location, they are allowed to lie dormant for want of sufficient energy in the people, or protection from their govern- ment, to work them. The species here found consists of both nugget and stream tin. I have several speci- mens of botli of these, presented me by the Geologist, Prof. Cummings Cherry, of Chicago, who "has always been largely interested in, and an enthusiast over the richness of this whole section. Now ! Sonora County, Mexico, borders on Arizona ; and this explains why we can, with considerable reason, hope that Arizona will give our country this long-coveted possesion. These are the incentives — these are the allurers — these are the encouraging influences that take men from their homes and make them dare their happiness, their homes, their lives, their all, and too often for the PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 145 after good of others. But so it is. So, does nature again cunningly assert herself and say, " 'tis better to give than to receive," when a sturdy, honest pioneer discovers a rich bonanza, holds it awhile from the rav- ages of the Indians, is finally murdered, and one of his less bold and daring brothers comes and reaps the reward. Many a remnant of a mining camp will tell the same story. But the American is indefatigable. Many may be slain, but as many more will rise to fill their places; and again that theory identified: that man does inevitably follow and profit by his fellows' toil, and that we were made to serve each other. Sym- pathy rarely finds its vent for the hardy pioneer and frontiers-man, or at best, ne'er gives the sympathy due. There are some, however, who have escaped, to reap their own harvest, and to tell of their vicissitudes. From these we can better get some of the more fla- grant causes for the failure of those who do not live to tell their own. In a previous chapter we had occasion by dint of narrative, to simply refer to the " Stonewall Jackson " Mine and the richness of the McMillen Mining Dis- trict. These narratives of golden fleece and shining nuggets being so rife in Arizona, entertaining the 140 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. traveler on any and every trip or route he may pro- pose or select, one can scarcely avoid asking the ques- tion why, if all these stories are true concerning the mines of Arizona, and their richness, they have not already been worked. I have been asked these ques- tions myself over and over again ; and after narrating what I saw, and having converted by actual knowl- edge, those fairy-like stories into absolute existences concerning the fabulous wealth of her mines, I would here offer a defence f. >r Arizona, for the seeming lack in her mining developments. To those who would ask the question, I would o.Tset their interrogative by asking them why the unsur- mountable conditions and the natural force of circum- stances had not long ago been abolished, and Arizona as per se been born a favored child from all the stub- orn ills of life. It is wished it could have been so. But rather than this, she has had more than her share to contend with. Arizona was the last acquired, and of all our Ter- litorial lands, situated to the further end of our na- tional domain ; until at present she was off the beaten track of our Country's physical progress, and conse- quently, the hardest to guard and protect, bordering a PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 147 country proverbially noted for its conquests, revolutions and the ungovernable traits of its rapacious subjects; filled with one of the fiercest and most warlike tribes of America's aborigines ; and a victim to the most un- relenting force of circumstances of perhaps any other portion of our country. It is a marvel that the Terri- tory shows the progress it does. The Apaches, the most powerful and war-like tribe of Indians that the government has perhaps ever had to bring its forces against. Ever since 1853, have we been more or less afficted with them, for as early as that had the American pluck found its way into that rich seclusion of the Sonora country. In that }^ear and with the purchase of our last acquisition to the Territory we also got, in the bargain, or as a legacy, a powerful tribe of wild, ferocious, unsubdued Indians, whose daily life consisted in hunting after, killing or torturing all human victims not of their own kind or kin. They had been at this since the time of the Spanish conquest, and had excelled. They had suc- cessfully repelled Mexico after her independence and until our purchase in 1853. Since then they have, we might say, fought us successfully also. It would have been money in our pockets, if after the pur- 148 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. chase, we had turned around and offered the Mex- icans the price of the whole purchase over again to have taken their munificent legaoy back, if this could have been done. One after another however, of our brave and indomitable men and women have pushed out into this open country with somewhat the spirit of '76, and one after another have they been slain. Some striking narratives told me recently by Governor A. P. K. Saflford of Arizona, are graphically descriptive of the times and conditions of which I speak, and I will here give them in substance. I would call attention to the philosophical manner with which a practical man with a practical knowledge of the thing dealt with, deals with this Indian ques- tion. Stern, yet unbiased and fair, Gov. Safford has accomplished more practical results with the Indian, than perhaps any other man. CHAPTER X NARRATIVES OF EARLY ARIZONA — BLOODY DEEDS AND THE APACHES — ESKIMENZEN — COCHISE — WITCHCRAFT — HAB- ITS OF LIFE— REFORM — WHO IS TO BLAME ? [A large portion ot this chapter is from pergonal narratives kindly tendered me by Ex-Gov. A. I\ K. Safford, of Arizona.) AN estimable lady who was a near neighbor to the Governor in Arizona was taken captive by the Apaches together with a young Spanish girl who was living with her. The Indians came to the house while the men were absent On leaving the house, the Indians traveled rapidly, as they knew quite well they would be pursued. Toward, the close of the first days travel, the Indians became satisfied that the woman could not travel with them. She had struggled with all her might to give them no trouble, knowing that her life depended upon it An old man walked beside her most of the day, who could speak Spanish. He talked constantly of the wrongs they had suffered from the whites. She told him if they had been wronged that she 150 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. was not responsible. "But," said the old man, " you are a race of villians. Your tongues are forked. My people were once a powerful tribe and owned all this country. Now we are compelled to hide like the coyotes. Our people have been murdered. Our coun- try has been taken from us, and I hate you all." Dur- ing the day she had been allowed to travej behind; but towards evening several savages dropped behind, and without a moment's warning, several spears were plunged into her body, and she was thrown down a bank for dead. She laid where she was thrown for several hours unconscious ; but during the night she heard voices, and among them recognized her hus- band's. Being so weak, however, irom loss of blood she could not speak nor move, and they passed on in pursuit of the Indians, not knowing that they had passed within a few feet of her. The next day she recovered sufficient strength, and commenced to crawl towards home, she was sixteen days crawling back, with nothing to eat, save the roots and leaves that she gathered on the way. She had been pierced with six- teen spears, three of which had entered the cavity of the body, but to-day she is alive and well. Failing to overtake the Indians, negotiations were opened to ransom them. The little girl was brought to the place designated and ransomed for gold. But the woman was reported dead and you can imagine the agreeable BEADY FOR A SCALP. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA lu3 surprise when she returned. At first, however, they believed she was a spirit; and it required some time before she could convince them that she was flesh and blood. A few months later her husband, father, and three brothers were murdered, and she was left alone, but subsequently married an excellent man, and a happier, or better family, cannot be found. Another case is told of a family who lived a few miles from the capital of the Territory. The husband was a member of the Legislature. While engaged making laws, the Indians made an attack upon his house. His wife and a hired man determined to sell their lives as dearly as possible, and as the savages approached near the house, the good wife discharged her trusty rifle and at each discharge, a savage " bit the dust" Finally, the ammunition began to get short. She sent the hired man with a letter to her husband, saying, " John, the Indians are here. Send me plenty of powder and lead. Don't neglect your duties by coming home, for I am master of the situa- tion, and can hold the house. In another place there was a husband and wife, a little child, and several hired men. The house had been attacked when only the woman and an old man were at home ; but the woman stood with rifle in hand, and defended the house until her husband and a few men came to her relief. Her husband begged the 154 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. Governor to take her to a more secure place, which lie would have gladly done. But when he mentioned it to her, she grew pale and said, " Do not, I pray yon, mention this to me again. I can watch for the sav- ages, and give him warning of their coming. If they come I can assist to repel them. And if he must die, I can die with him." This brave little woman and her husband are still alive, prosperous and happy, I understand. "We will narrate one more case, where a farmer was tilling the soil some distance from his house. The Indians had attacked and killed most of the people in the settlements nearest to him but he was unconscious of the fact. The Governor went to warn him of his danger, and urged him to abandon his farm. He said he could not ; that his wife and children would suffer for bread if he did not gather his grain. The Governor urged him to leave. Before the week passed the Indians came, they swarmed upon him witli their spears, expecting to obtain an easy victim, but he turned upon them with his repeating rifle, and the first, second, and third, fell a lifeless corpse, when the others ran. He continued his fire upon them, and before they got out of the range of his gun, four more were sent to the " happy hunting ground/' Unfortu- nately, however, a random shot from the retreating PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 155 Indians crushed his ankle and made him a cripple for life. Who are the beings that perpetrated these atroc- ities? I have only attempted to give a few of the scenes encountered in the settlement of Arizona. I will now mention briefly the Indians who were the actors in these bloody tragedies. The Apaches are of medium size, physically quick and active, and are capable of endur- ing great hardships. Their muscles of locomotion have peen developed to the fullest extent, and they are capable of moving with great rapidity. When making raids no horse can overtake or keep up with them. Intellectually they are very shrewd, have good com- mand of language, are quite witty and fond of joking. Governor Safford was present at the first attempt to make a general peace between them, and the whites, and the friendly Indians. The Conference lasted two days ; and the chiefs wdio spoke for the Indians ar- gued their points with great ingenuity, and, far ex- celled in shrewdness the tame Indians. One of the most vexatious things we had to deal with on that oc- casion was the case of some captive Apache children that had been taken by the whites, and given to differ- ent families in the country. The Indians demanded, as one of the conditions, that these children should be 15G PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. brought in and. given up to them. The children had been with the whites so long that they had forgotten their parents, and had as much affection for their adopted parents as though they had been their natural offsprings; and the adopted parents reciprocated the feeling. It was a heartrending separation. The chil- dren clung to their adopted parents with deathlike tenacity ; and to tear them from weeping women and turn them over to naked Savages was a scene, as the Governor said, he hoped never again to witness. We tried in every way to compromise with them, and save the children. We offered them money, horses, any- thing they might covet. But they replied; "Do you think we are dogs, and would sell our own children ? The principal spokesman upon that occasion, and who is now chief of the Apaches, is named Eski- menzen. I shall never forget with what pride and pomp he rode down to the place of meeting on his no- ble charger, with his favorite squaw seated behind him. He was then about thirty five years old ; tall and straight, and moved with the dignity and inde- pendence of a king. As he sprang from his horse he gave the reins to his wife. She was young, and very pretty for one of her race; and looked with pride and admiration upon her liege lord. All day long she remained seated upon the horse intent upon hearing every word that PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 157 escaped from her husband. Eskimenzen was bold, de- fiant, and unreconstructed. He was a wild man, filled with hatred and suspicion of the white man. |4 I had grave doubts about the peace enduring," said the Governor, "and it was not long before my doubts were realized." The Indians were subsequently however, very roughly handled, and afterwards sued for peace in good faith. They are now living quietly and peacably on a reservation. The Governor said, "I have been much interested in the great change in ac- tion and feeling that has been made in these Indians. I have often talked with great freedom with Eskimen- zen. Not long ago he said to me, ''you can hardly imagine what an erroneous opinion I had of the white people before I became well acquainted with you. I supposed that no other condition could exist between us except war. As far back as legend carried us we had been at war with every one with whom we came in contact, and I supposed that must go on, until one or the other race was exterminated. But now I see there are good and bad among the whites, as well as among the Indians, and that many of you desire to help us, and want to see us prosperous and happj\ I see that your ways are better than our ways for 3-ou lay up something ahead and never have to go hungry as we often did. I am getting old, and I am past the time to make much improvement, but I want my children 158 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. to grow up like white children, and learn to work and read and write." Thus it will be seen that our misunderstandings, quarrels and fights, whether with our own people or the rude savages, are mainly brought about by not knowing and understanding each other. These wild men fought us cruelly, savagely, unrelentingly. But from their stand-point they believed that they were doing right, and that we were all wrong. At this time when Eskimenzen broke the peace, the first man he killed was his friend who had been very kind to him. I afterwards asked him why he killed his friend, and he replied that he wanted to break the peace ; that any coward could kill an enemy, but it took a brave man to kill a friend. Cochise was the greatest war chief the Apaches ever had. He never was whipped in a fight, and was a natural born chief. He was kind to his men, and never tasted food until they were first supplied. But he exacted in return, implicit obedience to his com- mands, and a very slight deviation cost the offender his life. He had no more hesitation in plunging his spear through the heart of one of his own men, than in killing an enemy in battle. I met him once and spent one day with him at his camp in the mountains. He gave me a history of his wrongs ; and although he had been the cause of killing more white men, than AN APACHE CHIEF. AN APACHE SQUAW AND PAPPOOSE. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 163 any other chief or Indian, and had been cruel beyond discription in his tortures, I could not help but feel that lie had been deeply wronged ; and, that from the light given him, and the law and morals upon which he had been educated, he had acted conscientiously, and had done what he believed to be right. He was a man of great energy, of superior ability and firmness of purpose, and was generally faithful to his promises, lie was tall, straight and commanding in appearance, and his features were regular with a placid, though rather sad countenance. He rarely ever smiled, and was thoughtful and studied in all his expressions. I talked to him of the superior advantages of civiliza- tion, but he replied, " I am too old to adopt new cus- toms." He had captives with him who could speak and read the Spanish language, and he was well ad- vised of everything tlie newspapers said about him. He expressed a desire that his children should learn to read and write, " but of us old people " he said ; " you can make nothing of us but wild men." He died a natural death three years ago. During the last three years of his life he and his people lived at peace with the citizens of Arizona, but carried on a relentless war against the Mexicans across the frontier. I tried to persuade him to cease this warfare, as it was liable to involve him and the people of Arizona in difficulty. But his eyes flashed fire with indignation at the men- 164 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. tion of making pence with tlie Mexican people; and lie said ; " while life is spared me, I will never cease to hate and kill that infamous people. I know their treachery to my sorrow. I once placed confidence in them only to be betrayed. Many years ago I became tired of war, and made peace with them. I crossed the line and settled in their Country, and everything seemed harmonious and lovely. After we had remained there a few months and all passed on pleasantly, the Mexican authorities proposed to get up a grand barbacue to celebrate the era of love aud good will. All the Indians and vast numbers of Mexicans came together and hundreds of cattle were slaughtered for the occasion. Liquor was freely given which re- sulted in the intoxication of many of my bravest and best soldiers. When they were in this helpless condi- tion, an indiscriminate massacre was commenced, of my braves, women and children. By this treachery we lost a large number of our people, but I with some of my followers, were spared ; and since that time we have done what we could to revenge that terrible wrong. Tf we have been cruel, then they set the example to us. That they have greatly suffered at our hands I know full well. They now cry for peace, but there can be no peace between us." Since the Apache Indians have been brought on the reservation, and have become tame, and acquainted PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 165 with civilization, they have undergone a great change, and appear like a different people. They have com- menced to labor, and seem desirous, many of them, to earn their own living. They have accumulated some property } and it would now be difficult to drive a large majority of them on the war path. They have for several years been self-governing; the police du- ties have been entirely performed by men belonging to the tribe, and these policemen have in every in- stance been vigilant and true. In one instance an Indian attempted to kill the U. S. Agent at the reser- vation, but was almost instantly killed himself by his brother, who was acting as a policeman. All the Indians that I have ever met are superstitious, and are firm believers in witchcraft. A witch is considered a very great criminal, or rather, an unclean and danger- ous spirit and not lit to live. Many are killed for this grave offence. The victims are almost invariably women, and generally aged. Death, pestilence, or any great calamity is usually charged to the influence of witches, who have to pay the penalty by death. Their doctors practice their profession by sorcery. They chant songs and go through with all manner of mysterious manoeuvres. If the patient gets well, the cure is conceded to the doctor. But if he is unsuc- cessful in his practice, and cannot prove that his ill success is attributable to the interference of witches, 160 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. he often pays the penalty by death. Last Spring, the Governor took a scouting party of Indians into Mexico. One' of them had a felon on his finger. I applied the usual remedies, but the night before it broke lie lost all faith in my skill. He called in the Indian doctor, and the night was spent in chanting. In the morning the sore broke. The patient was relieved, and the Indian doctor received full credit for performing the cure. By Indian custom the woman is the property of the man. When an Indian desires to marry, he purchases his wife from the father. A man is allowed as many wifes as he is able to purchase. She is thus his property to do with as he pleases. He can beat her at will, and even kill her if he so inclines. Of course she is treated according to the disposition of the husband. Some are kind and indulgent while others are brutal and cruel. There is nothing in In- dian custom to which they cling with more tenacity than this supreme power over their wives ; and no Indian, however unjust or cruel another may be, ever thinks of interfering to protect her; and the senti- ment of a whole tribe has often been united against the efforts of agents who have tried to correct these abuses. Infidelity on the part of the women among the Apaches is usually punished by cutting off their noses. I have seen many thus mutilated. These customs seem very strange to us ; but it must be PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 167 borne in mind that within the history of oar own country, with all the advantages of books and educa- tion, many people have been by our laws executed for witchcraft. The subject of man's superiority and power to rule and control women too, has only van- ished as we have advanced in civilization ; and there yet remains many abuses to correct before we place women on that high plain which God designed they should occupy. While we may deeply regret the benighted condition of the red man, we must bear in mind that they are unlettered, and have never received the light and elevated influence of the Christian re- ligion. But we might run on in this strain until our powers of speech were exhausted, and then leave much be- hind. This is but one chapter. A thousand might be written. When we had first learned of the wealth that lies hidden within the folds of Arizona, we might think it was neglect on the people's part, and ask the question, why has it not been worked? But when we learn of its history and former conditions, as ex- plained in this chapter, any stigma is cast aside, and we forget the past, in our eagerness to grasp the bril- liant present and future. CHAPTER XL EHRENBERG — A LONELY "VILLAGE OF THE PLAIN " — PAINFUL THOUGHTS — CORONATION PEAK — THE GODDESS OF THE VALLEY — NO ENDOWMENT POLICY — INTEREST, CONTRAST, AND BEAUTY — TO THE LAND OF HEMP, COTTON AND RICE. FOR some distance back from the Colorado River, to the east, and on the California side, there is a dense cluster of willows, greasewood and timber of smaller growth, which lines the banks of this whimsi- cal stream. On the opposite or Arizona side of the river, yon greet the town of Ehrenberg — a unique set- tlement to those not accustomed to Mexican huts. On the occasion of my arrival there, hosts of Indians were down to push the boat off the shore after the stage had driven upon it. One front of a row of low flat adobe structures, constitute the material town ; with a population of five hundred Indians, Mexicans, and a general mixture of a little of everything else — the Indians predominating. Breakfast taken here again, we pushed on. From the river, evidences of :| " ,;: ! |i;! 'li'i 'I^Ki'lS*™ PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 171 fertile soil began to show itself in the constantly in- creasing growths noticed as we progressed. Desert riding at its worst, in our country, lias only an ideal in the minds of the many. Many people of course, have suffered and died on these very deserts, the result being attributed to the desert, but in reality the desert is not wholly the cause. Ignorant of the nature of their trip many an emigrant has started out without water sufficient to carry him but a very few miles, or having carried perhaps water enougli for his journey, but not being acquainted with, and having no one to direct him in his right course., he has wan- dered and strayed indefinitely at his own risk and peril. We would not recommend any one to attempt uncertain courses, out of beaten tracks. Arizona is not civilized enough to trust to meeting of fellow trav- elers for guidance, and the natural causes of delusion in distance and direction ; the beautiful but deceptive mirage, and the effect of unaccustomed altitudes, all make it dangerous for those not to some extent ac- quainted with causes or with the country, to trust themselves to their ordinary common sense. Apart from the beauties which actually do lie in these deserts (so called) the interest all seem to find in them, is noticeable. They are interesting. The diversity of our desert lands is very broken, both as regards safety and beauty. One may have the beau- 172 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. ties here, without the necessary perils. Imagine riding over a sandy desert mesa, and all the horrible visions of skeletons and starvation, and reptile bites, choking from thirst and the like, forcing themselves upon you until nerves are unwittingly wrought to the highest pitch of terror; and then by a sudden reversion of the mind, you realize that a canteen of water which is at your side, is ample to support you from one station to another. On our trip from Yuma to the Santa Rita Mountains these effects were pleasingly realized. With one of our feet on a box filled with canned oysters, and the other on a case of jelly, while our eyes fell upon a choice quarter of fresh lamb or a heap of quail which some of the party had shot on the way. On one occasion we passed a few bones scat- tered on the sand a short distance from the road. Our driver informed us that they were the remains of a par- ty of two men, a woman and child, who attempted to cross over certain mesas and plains to reach Phoenix without going on the round-about road to Wickenburg first, and so on down to Phoenix. They lost their way; and getting out of water (which would have lasted them until they reached Wickenburg had they gone the accustomed way) perished. Thirty miles inland from the Colorada River, and the Gila valley showed unmistakable signs of the richest fertility. Galetta, Gramma, Sacaton, and other Iti^S^. A MOJATE iroiAlf A5T> BOX AT EHKESKEBG. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA 175 grasses, together with the more ponderous and harder growths of the mesquite, and palo-verde trees, could but suggest a rich soil. Dr. Allen, the well-known geologist, upon examining the soil on one occasion, gave it as his opinion, that in a very large majority of cases that which seemed to condemn the lands here as desert, was simply an over crust of a salt formation that rather enriched the ground than otherwise, and that the other sub-soil was a rich loam upon which all products of a semi-tropical (and in many cases of a tropical clime) would excel in production. Forty miles from Yuma, east from the banks of the Gila River, we had a gorgeous sight of the object known as the Coronation Peak. Our party all dis- mounted here, to roll and stretch their limbs on the lawn-like meadows that line the river's edge, and to catch the inspiration which this peak throws out to all who will seek her society. There is a spirit in her that speaks to every human soul. The name is de- rived from the resemblance the top of the peak has to a crown. The tip aspiring heavenward, and playing with the brilliant tints of the clouds, contrasts beauti- fully with the blue waters of the Gila at the base. The " shades of evening" cast over here, with robes of crimson and purple, made poets of us all. I was a poet while I lay sprawling on the ground in the pres- ence of this goddess of the valley. But the trouble is, 176 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. I lost the gift of poesy when I parted with her. She doesn't believe in the endowment policy. She has no regard for those who wont stay with her alway. The scenery of Arizona is marked. Her features are peculiar to herself. One does not here see the "El Capitan" nor hear the clashing waters of the Niagara. But at neither Niagara nor in the Yosemite do we see the mirage, nor do we see it anywhere on the earth, perhaps, except in the famous Fatamorgana of Italy. The artist may get his subject in the mountains of California or in the rocky mountains ; but for his light and shade, let him go to Arizona. In' the trip of which lam in part giving a narrative, several of the members often alluded to the fact that if this or that effect were to be truly pictured on canvass the observ- er would say that it was " forced " — exagerated. Ari- zona's interest, next to her great mineral wealth, con sists in her contrasts. Contrasts beget beauty ; and interest in a thing makes that beauty lasting. We have known of many a pretty face, that lacking interest, has lost its charm in a -very short time ; while we have known of many a homely face whose interest has captivated man for a whole life time. Whereas for general and prolific productiveness, the more southerly part of Arizona may perhaps excel ; the more wonder- ful phenomena must be accredited to the northern por- tion. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 179 Traveling up the Gila Kiver there is a very pretty series of mountains and valleys, the mountains hem- ming the valleys in. But }'Ou travel and travel and travel without ever meeting with any obstruction. You continue in one broad, extensive valley unto the end of your journey. For a distance of two hundred and fifty to three hundred miles this unbroken stretch of rich farming land urges the husbandman to share its virtues and merits. As you journey eastward, signs of agriculture increase rapidly until, arriving in the neighborhood of Florence, which is in a direct line east from Yuma, and about one hundred and fifty to two hundred miles from it, the country assumes a charming and cheerful aspect. Professor Wheeler estimated in his reports of Arizona, that, under irriga- tion, thirty-seven per cent, of the lands of Arizona could be made agricultural, and sixty per cent, pastoral. Eice, hemp, cotton, wild poppy, and opium flourish in the southern portions of the State, while to the east, in the Yiego and other of the many rich valleys which lie between the isolated and broken mountain ranges so common in Arizona and the southwest, the cereals thrive wonderfully. Our observations all through the Gila valley forcibly showed this large extent as graz- ing lands. In some cases even the mesas may be used for pasturage. Beyond the station at Maricopa Wells, is located the 180 TICTURESQUE ARIZONA. Pima Indian Villages. In all the distance from here to Florence may be seen crops of corn, grain and the smaller vegetables, cultivated by the Indians. The Pimas are notable for their industry. With the Indian, has always been associated the idea of a people identi- fied only with scalping knives, tomahawks, and a for- midable display of feathers and fantastically orna- mented robes of skins for clothing. But the word In- dian has as wide a range of signification as to say white man. To say white man may mean a Grecian, an American or Mexican ; an intel- ligent man, an industrious man, or a lazy good- -for-nothing who may scarcely be worth any thing, be he either white or black. This is about the significance one should get of the present term Indian. There are as great differences to be comprehended in the one term as in the other. Comparisons between the different tribes will show this. Not only either, does this show itself among different nations, so to speak, or locations alone, but between the tribes of one section of the country. Nowhere, in my experi- ence in Indian countries, are these facts more thor- oughly demonstrated than in the southwest of our country — including the different classes known under the head of "The Indian." CHAPTEE XII. ANTELOPE PEAK— A NIGHT'S COMPANION — ;< LONE PEAKS"— A GOLD STORY— OATMAN'S FLAT— FREIGHT TRAINS OF THE DESERT— " PEDROS PINTADOS." THE second night out brought us to "Antelope Peak," a famous camping spot, and so named from a high, towering peak jutting up from the ground in magnificent and haughty style, and shrowding you and the camp grounds surrounding, with its casting shadows. An adobe building for the stage company's office, and a corral for the protection and care of the horses, and the graceful flow of the Gila River o'er- shadowed by the towering "Antelope," constitute the main attraction for the camper. It is a very refresh- ing and cooling retreat for the traveler, who has had just enough of the sand and sun of Arizona by this time, to appreciate and enjoy it. This peak, instead of being called a peak, having the features of so much of the Arizona mountain sceneiw, would be better com- prehended by being termed an Isolated Mountain ; jut- ting, as it does from the very level of the plains, and throwing itself grandly up to a height of hundreds of 182 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. feet into one single conical shaped formation. There are several of these entertaining fellows over the plains of the Territory relieving the eye of monotony, and without which the deserts and the traveler on them, would yearn for some society. Their extreme contrast with the surroundings, exalting -them to a glorious standard. One of the most bold and pleasing of these peaks is to be seen on Stewart k Pearson's stage road from Ehrenberg to Prescott. After riding for miles and hours over the broad sandy plains, with the distant mountains forming a pleasing enclosure to a vast natural stage upon which many a weird and midnight scene has been enacted, to come boldly upon these two lone peaks (there are two of them) standing side by side, is a scene worth the whole ride. As the stage passes by close to their base, they look down frowningly upon you ; and were you supersti- tious, would almost think they spoke to you in the starry stillness of the night. The occasion on which I first saw these peaks was in the middle of the night. It was a bright moon- light one, and the hazy light of the moon from behind, tli rowing the shadow far over our stage coach, pro- duced a sombre effect. I was seated on top of the coach alongside the driver, and strapped on to prevent me from falling off by the sudden jolts in passing over the gulches where the miners had been to work, and "LONE PEAKS," ON THE ROAD FROM EHRENBE..G TJ PRESCOTT. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 185 so that I miglit sleep and nod to my heart's content without being dashed beneath the wheels. I had fallen asleep as my driver could assert to this day, be- cause he had tried his best to keep me awake for some one to talk to. In passing over a small stream which runs close by the peaks, the thump of the wagon fairly forced my eyelids apart; and, beholding these two giant figures o'er-spreading me as it seemed, 1 was held with awe for a few minutes, and then said to the dri- ver, " What are these ? " at the same time holding my face up at right angles to see the top. " Oh ! those ? " said he, in a quiet unconcerned voice, — "Oh ! those are stones that grow here in Ari- zona.," I named the peaks "Lone Peaks,'' as agree- able to the circumstances and conditions, as well as the sentiments of both myself and my friend the driver. In regard to my waking up by the jolt oi the wagon, I am not sure to this day whether it was the jolt of the coach, or due to some mechanical or other contrivance of the driver. These drivers do not like to have you go to sleep in the night while at their side. They want you to talk to. Besides, if there is going to be any Indian relays, or a meeting of any of the road "agents" who often come out part way to relieve the coach or the passengers of any extra money they may have on their persons, he wants you to see the 186 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. modus operandi with which it is done. I do not know then, whether it was the thump, or a pin being poked into my leg, or a pinch that woke me up. And the driver will " never tell you." The Antelope peak of the Gila Peak of the Gila must not be conflicted with what is known as the Antelope Mountains seen on another part of Stewart & Pearson's stage route, which is some distance north of the Gila Eiver, where a man by the name of Poebles took out seven thousand dollars in placer gold one morning before break- fast, and during three weeks following, it is known, found eighty thousand dollars in gold nuggets. This is a California gold story of '49 over again, and verifies what we say elsewhere concerning the part of '49 be- ing again played, in Arizona. "We may emphatically, look for this. The era has already dawned. Urging our mules the next day we made a beautiful run of forty-six miles to a station known as Stamvix Hall, famous for its mud springs which, one of these days will be celebrated far and wide for their medi- cinal properties. In the morning we pass a station that reminds us that we are not too far away from home to be partiotic, by a flag hoisted in rude style over the corral and composed of three white stripes, two red stripes and two blue stripes and forty-five stars. We had seen flags larger, and we had seen PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 189 flags less pretentious; but I don't think any of us ever took off our hats with a more hearty and vigo- rous "Three cheers ! " than did the Aztec party ; and we excused the presumption of the forty-five stars on the grounds that perhaps the inserter of them candidly thought Arizona was worth enougli in herself to make up the deficiency. That afternoon brought us to the sad and tragic landmark of the Oatman's Flat, where they have named the station after the victims of this tragedy, to keep perhaps, fresh in the memory of the white man the recollections of one the most atrocious massacres ever perpetrated by the Indians. This story is well known and has been often re- peated by many writers. We will simply quote a few of the more important features of the affair as graph- ically described by J. Ross Brown. Early in January, 1851, Mr. Royse Oatman and his family entered that portion of the new Mexican Territory now called Ari- zona, in company with an emigrant party of which he was a member. * * * * * * * He had seen no hostile Indians, and had heard of no recent depredations on the way. * * * On the 18th of March, they spent a dreadful night on a little sand island in the Gila River. A terrific storm blew the water up over them ; their scanty supply of provisions was damaged, their blankets and clothing were wet through, and the starving animals driven 190 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. nearly frantic with fear. It was a wild and desolate place, many days journey from any civilized abode. . It was starvation to stay, and almost inevitable disaster to go forward. Mrs. Oat- man, tlie noble wife and mother, always patient, hope- ful, and enduring, busied herself in attending to the wants of her children and in uttering words of encour- agement to her husband. He, however, seemed ut- terly overwhelmed with gloomy forebodings, and con- tinued to look back upon the road, till suddenly an expression of indescribable horror was observed in his face, and the next moment a band of Indians was seen leisurely approaching along the road. The children perceiving instinctively that their father — to whom they had always been accustomed to look for protec- tion — was agitated by no ordinary emotions, became alarmed ; but he succeeded by a strong effort in main- taining an appearance of composure, and told them not to be afraid, tliat the Indians would not hurt them. It was a favorite theory of his that misconduct on the part of the whites was the cause of all trouble with Indians, and that by treating them generously and kindly they would not prove ungrateful. Strange that one who had lived in frontier countries should so fatally misconstrue the character of that race ! When the Indians came up Mr. Oatman spoke to them kindly in Spanish, and motioned to them to sit PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 193 down. They sat down, and asked for tobacco and pipes ; wliiclt lie gave them, and they smoked awhile in token of friendship. Then they asked for some- thing to eat. Mr. Oatman told them his family were nearly starving — that they had a long journey before them, and could ill spare any .portion of their scanty stock. However, he gave them a little bread, and said lie was sorry he could not give them more. After this they stood off a little and talked in a low tone, while Oatman set to work to re-load the wagon. It was observed that. the Indians looked anxiously down the road as if expecting some approaching party. Suddenly, with a terrific yeM, they jumped in the air, and dashed with uplifted clubs upon the doomed family. Lorenzo, a boy fourteen years of age, was struck on the head and felled to the earth the first blow. Several of the savages rushed upon Oatman, and he was seen for a moment struggling in their midst, but soon fell a mutilated corpse at their feet. Mrs. Oatman pressed her youngest child to her bosom, and struggled with a mother's heroic devotion to save it, shrieking in piercing accents, "Help! help! Oh, for the love of God, will nobody save us ! " A few blows of the murderous clubs quickly silenced the poor mother and her babe ; and in less than a minute the whole family, save Lorenzo, Olive, and Mary Anne, were lying dead or moaning in their death- 194 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. struggles upon the ground. Olive, a girl sixteen years of age, and Mary Anne, a frail child of eleven, were dragged aside and held in the iron grasp of two In- dians. Lorenzo, the boy, was stunned by the crush- ing blows which had fallen upon his head, and lay bleeding by the edge of the precipice. In his narra- tive he states that he soon recovered his conscious- ness, and distinctly heard the yells of the Apaches, mingled with the shrieks and dying groans of his parents. The savages seeing him move, rifled his pockets and cast him over the precipice. Upon a careful examination of the spot — as shown to the right of the road in the accompanying sketch — I esti- mated that he must have fallen twenty feet before he struck the rocky slope of the mesa. That he was not instantly killed or maimed beyond recovery seems miraculous. Strange discordant sounds, he tells us, grated upon his ears, gradually dying away, and then he heard "strains of such sweet music as completely ravished his senses." ****** As soon as the Apaches had consummated the massa- cre of the Oatman family and plundered the wagon of its contents, they fled across the river, taking with them the two captives, Olive and Mary Anne. These un- fortunate girls had seen their parents, brothers, and sisters cruelly murdered, and were now dragged away, bare-headed and shoeless, through a rude and desolate PICTURESQUE RIZONA. 195 wilderness. Ferocious threats and even clubs were used to hurry them along. Their feet were lacerated, and tlieir scanty clothes were torn from their bodies in passing over the rocky mesas and through dense and thorny thickets. Sometimes the younger sister faltered from sheer lack of strength, but the savage wretches, unmindful of her sufferings, beat her and threatened to dispatch her at once if she lagged be- hind. She said it was useless to try any more — she might as well die at once; A brutal wretch of the tribe seized her as she sank to the ground, and casting her across his back started off on a trot. * * * Through the services of Fran- cisco, a Yuma Indian, the purchase of Olive from the Mojaves was effected by Mr. Grinnell, in February, 185G. She was brought down to a place on the Colo- rado at an appointed time. Here Mr. Grinnel met her. She was sitting on the ground, as he described the scene to me, with her face covered by her hands. So completely was she disguised b} r long exposure to the sun, by paint, tattooing and costume, that he could not believe she was a white woman. When he spoke to her, she made no answer, but cried and kept her face covered. It was not for several days after her arrival at Fort Yuma that she could utter more than a few broken words of English. Subse- quently she met her brother, and was taken by him to 19G PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. Lis residence near Los Angeles. After that tlicv lived c~ °y awhile in Oregon. Since this account of the unfortunate girl was given, I learn she came to New York State, and afterwards died in an insane asylum. Surrounding the Oatman's Flat, is a very good specimen of the different peculiar formations of the mesas so common in Arizona. These mesas are the bug-bears, the temper-agitators, the malin-esprits of the desert to a class of people in Arizona vast in numbers, but more important than vast. These are the freight drivers of the plains. " Freighting on the plains,' is a term that arouses a deep interest to any one who has seen and contemplated it in all its bearings — vicissitudes and benefits alike. To see a freight team on the plains tugging up one of these mesas is a sight which would arouse the sympathies of any one at all sensitive to toils and pains. The wagons (shall we call them wagons?) will sometimes carry as high as seventy -five thousand pounds freight, and require any- where from ten to twenty mules ; which, in Arizona parlance means horses, mules, donkeys, and even in some cases oxen all harnessed together in one team. The effect is rather ludicrous at first sight ; but when we observe the " happy-family " instinct with which they assimilate, one begins to believe in the millen- ium, and is relieved of his grating spirit in the hopes PICTURESQUE AHiZONA, 197 that this order of things will tend equally to leaven the many diverse conditions of Arizona society and hasten the assimilation of the Mexican, the Indian, the white man, the black man ; the murderous Apache and the indefatigable "road agent. On many occcaions seve- ral of these wagons (generally two or three) will be linked together, and a comparative force employed to haul them. And when the traveler meets, as he often will, with several of these combinations, making up one long train, it is a sight to behold. The drivers like those of the passenger stage coach, like company, and will strive to travel as many together as possible. The first intimation you have of the approach of these teams, is a cloud of dust in the distance, which, as you journey on assumes the proportion of a moun- tain. Then }^ou will see a black speck in the centre of it. This will disappear and reappear as rapidly again through the dense clouds of dust which are being as rapidly supplied by the stir of the animal's hoofs. Occasionally you will hear a deep smothered voice as if from the distance ; or from some enclosed place ; and during the continuance of the echo a vast number of intonations will be reflected by the rapidly increasing changes of dust clouds. You become interested in the coming spectacle. There is a spirit sent before it that tells you it is something a little different from any- thing you have seen before. Still nearer and nearer these 198 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. dust clouds appear, until you can see the volumes of dust like volumes of smoke from a conflagration, roll and play about tlieir common victims, man and beast alike, as majestically as the clouds at the foot of some moun- tain range. Now the yells and shouts of the teamsters spurring their animals on under their weary load, will become more and more audible. Perhaps they will just be ascending some side of a steep mesa; in which case, if you happened to have got near enough by this time to distinguish the sound, you will hear the crack of their "snake," accompanied by vociferous yells. You will now, too, for the first time, be able to learn the cause of all this commotion. The yells become fiercer and louder, and the lash of the whip upon the struggling animals more frequent and forcible. Sounds too, which to a delicate ear will heighten the interest, if not elevate the spirit of a person, like hail stones in an April shower. The tinkle of bells fastened around the animals' necks soften like sweet sounding timbrels, the gushing, grating noise of the heavy laden wheels over the rocky mesa. After having reached the top of the mesa and crossed it, the descent on the other side to valley, plain, and desert, is wrought with the same uproarious commotion as the ascent had been be- fore. The load is equally as difficult to hold back now as it was to haul up. Some of these freight wagons carry at a time from seventy to seventy five thousand THE CONTINENT STEREOSCOPIC COMPANY'S ARTIST VIEWING IN ARIZONA. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA 201 pounds of merchandise — from thirty to thirty -five tons. One of the leading features of interest to the trav- eler in this Mesa land is the system of pre-historic land- marks he is constantly coming in contact with on all sides. Man lias as yet,however, derived veiy little pos- itive knowledge of them from any research or investi- gation, and they remain to this clay a source of specu- lative interest to the traveler, from the time he leaves the Colorado, at Yuma or Ehrenberg, until he com- pletes his journey. It is in these features that Arizona presents herself as the land for the Archaeologist, the Psychologist, and all curious minds. Among the fore- most of these are the "Painted Rocks" (Pedras Pin- tados). About six miles from Oatman's Flat, on an extensive plain, encircled by the famous Arizona Mountains, is to be seen the largest and most perfect specimens of these Painted Rocks (Pedras Pintados). They are in the Gila valley one hundred and twenty miles from Tucson, Latitude, 33°, Longitude 113°. To stop and examine these wonders of the pre-historic age, is only to enhance the great enchantment that waylays the traveler in Arizona on every hand. They are a mass of rocks, evidently piled by some physical power, ages ago. They are massed together in a heap about fifty feet high with a proportionate base ; and while some 202 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. are of a size that may be lifted by a man, others might be ranked with boulders. On. these rocks or stones, are various figures and images. Figures, geo- metrical, conic, and anatomical. A figure on one of the stones particularly attracted my attention. It was that of a man or woman. It reminded me of my first attempt to draw a man on my slate at school. A big round "0'' for a body, a little round "o" for ahead, two little straight lines for arms, and two big straight lines for legs. This I classed among the comical. Squares, circles, triangles, crosses, — snakes, toads, and vermin ; men without heads, and dogs without tails. In comparing them with some sketches I made of the Aztec Calendar Stone in Mexico, they show some variations, though a similarity. The figures are slight- ly indented in the rocks ; and whether it is the result of force at the time of application, or whether the chemical effect of the substance used, eating into the rock, are questions with me. I found it to be a com- mon tradition with the Indians that they were put there in the time of Montezuma, to record treaties with the different tribes. This would make them four hundred years old. Some geologists claim the inscrip- tions to be only one hundred years old. Comparing them again with my photographs of the Aztec Calen- dar stone, the similarity would seem to support the theory that they might have been the chronicling of PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 205 that age, and the variations suggest, by perhaps dif- ferent tribes or sects of that age. This would seem to have some weight, as the stones are of an indiscrimi- nate collection and the paintings are as indiscrimi- nately distributed as regards the size of rock, in pro- portion to the amount of chronicling to be done, I should imagine. Opinions, however, are as varied as in other cases concerning the archaeology of this most wonderful country. In regard to the rocks, it has been suggested that they were monuments of boundary lines between the different tribe?' lands. It is the reader's turn to go forward and add his investigations to the yet meagre knowledge of the stone. The morning of our visit was on the Sabbath. We sang requiems to the departed souls of — of many un- known beings ; made and drank two or three gal- lons of lemonade, (for the desert was warm) reveled among the antiquities, taking notes, making sketches, copying inscriptions, etc., etc. One of our party finally suggested that we read a chapter in the Bible, it being Sunday. With the consent of all it was done; and when he came to the last clause "Rise and go hence " we were reminded that we were encroaching on our time by the influence of allurement, and that thegreat Prompter was with us even in the desert. I am glad to be able to record this little circumstance ; for a man is known by the company he keeps, etc., etc. 206 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. A want has heretofore been felt for a true and accu- rate illustration of many of Arizona's out-of-the-way wonders. But the Continent Stereoscopic Company of New York has very materially supplied those wants during the past year, by photographs taken at many of these interesting points. Many of these I have se- cured for illustrations in this book. The picture of the Painted Eocks on page 205 is from a photograph taken by this company, and the first one that was ever procured. .V SCEKE IN THE SALT RIVEB VALLEY. CHAPTER XIII. THE SALT RIVER VALLEY — LOST ON A DESERT — il HAPPY CAMP n A DOLLAR DRINK — WATER TWENTY-FIVE CENTS— THE BED IN THE MANGER — MULE VERSUS MAN— IMPORTANT CONSID- ERATIONS— MONTEZUMA OR WASHINGTON, WHICH? WE had left the Gila Bend, where the Gila makes a bold sweep from its eastward course — turns north and emerges into the Salt Kiver — where it fur- nishes one of the richest valleys in the State. Our course now was to be over a section of country differ- ing very much from our former travels along the Gila, and resembling in character the land similar to that left by the receding of some portions of the great sea. For miles, the land is composed of a rich sandy loam which, when irrigated, produces largely. There are nine thousand acres of land under cultivation in the Salt River valley alone. This character of land con- tinues for ninety miles to Florence, from which point going eastward still, you enter a more mountainous country. This description of the land applies to the section from the Gila Bend to Florence with the ex- ception of the first fifteen miles, which is spread over 208 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. as desolate a waste as any one would wish to see, and which brings us to the famous "happy camp." On the 10th of December at 10.30 we arrived at the famous " Happy Camp " — or rather a portion of our party did. We had intended pushing on that day across the desert to Maricopa Wells, but a mishap befel us, so we were compelled to remain the rest of the day on account of the loss of one of our party. The case was after this wise : Before arriving at the camp we lost sight of one of our wagons. We were not alarmed at this, however, thinking they had got on faster than we, or that they had taken another road, there being two. We arrived at the camp but the other portion of our party had not. We w T aited until, twelve P. M. and then our fears began to be agitated, and a consultation being held by our party on the spot an hour after our arrival, it was de- clared that the other wagon must have been lost, and when those words "lost on the desert" fell upon my ear, a chill ran through my whole frame. Yisions of the skeletons on the great Mojave desert in the north, and the wayside graves along the Gila, came up before me and I felt lonely. We despatched at once a son of the station agent, who was experienced in all Indian trails and roads to seek after the missing party and guide them aright. At two P. M. cheers arose from our party at the camp, at the sight of the missing wagon PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 211 coming around a stony mound a short distance from us. Many congratulations met the youthful guide of the plains who had safely guided our straying party to its haven and its friends, together with something of a more solid and substantial nature. " Happy Camp" is an anomaly in its nomenclature; and yet the happiness we experienced in meeting our lost companions threw some light upon what might have possibly been the incentive to the title it now enjoys. How do we know what succor some way- faring, depressed or perhaps, starving pioneer had re- ceived from a more successful traveler at this particu- lar point. Or how from beneath the Apaches club, or the Navejd's tomahawk, some helpless one has been snatched by the timely arrival of some mountain trap- per or mining prospector. It must have been some such condition as this that gained for this sterile, gloomy place, its "happy " name. It is situated on a barren tract at the foot of a scattered, diminutive range of mountains, where the presumptuous cactus (Saguara) like a vaunting egotist, rears its haughty head and reigns supreme where it has no competing foe. Stretching far away over the cresled billows of the rolling valley of the Gila can be seen the crested sen- tinels of the hills and plains. Contrary to the name then, this spot is a dreary one, and yet the marvelous and extensive valleys that one 212 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. sees again after crossing the one ridge of mountains to the east verifies the assertion of Prof. Wheeler, that a large portion of the lands are or can be made agri- cultural. At this station water has to be brought fifteen miles from the Gila Eiver, and the charge of twenty-five cents per head is mnde for watering horses. I think the price was formerly one dollar; but from some advanced facilities in fetching it, — it has recently been reduced. "Happy Camp," like many of the "Hotels of the desert" is nothing more than a camping spot, and combines all the vicissitudes as well as the ecstatic di- versities of life on a frontier. The scenery around is dismal and the character of the little mountlets, mounds and peaks that hem us in close by, give the whole a dreary effect. But if interest alone, makes beauty in a thing, then this place would deserve em- phatically the name of beautiful. One little event ex- perienced here, I would not sell for any other one of the trip. When night came, always having the same in- terest in that great natural restorative sleep, as I have in the more material one mentioned by Artemus Ward of the " stumik," became somewhat anxious for our place of repose. On this open, fruitless, barren, even grassless spot, we found no place to equal that of the corral where the mules had already been placed for shelter and repose. They had of course been put in JUST IN FBOM THE DKSKKl-GETTIxNQ HEADY FOR A SQUARE MEAL PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 215 the most pleasant and comfortable stalls in the corral, made for their protection from the tornadoes or sand storms that sometimes blow across these wasted plains in a very reckless manner to say the least. The corral, as most all do, throughout this land, consisted of trunks of small trees for the corner pieces, and the rest made up of an association of reeds or stalks of the different cacti of the location, and the top had a pretended cov- ering of the coarse hay or weeds of the desert around. However, this did not prevent you from seeing the stars at will, nor of enjoying the refreshing spatterings of the rain if it should come. The propriety of turning the brute animals out was first considered; but some one who had evidently ac- quired the spirit of a " Bergh," protested. Stating that if one of our party should be taken sick, or catch his death of cold, or die, it would not make so much dif- ference, ns we could really go on without him. But if our mules were to meet the like fate — "What would we do?" to be sure. We of course admitted the argu- ment As I write this, the thought suggests itself, how singularly the condition of things, or circum- stances, will transverse the whole aspect of a case. At all events, as time progressed, it became more and more apparent that our lot was to be a bed in the manger ; and as the fact forced itself upon us the nov- elty of it became more prominent To humble our 216 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. selves then the more, got by degrees, to be the ambi- tion of each and every one of our party. There were several old broken stalls, with mangers torn down, or delapidated, which had been decided, by the firm protest of our Berghite, we must make the best of and use. Not the best now, but the very worst of these, each one wanted to claim, either to immortalize him- self by his sufferings, or to the more thoroughly con- tradict his previous selfish impulse. It was a solemn procession that night as we all walked from the crude built depot on one side of the road, to our "lowly cots" on the other. Yes! we were to sleep "in a manger" that night. As vividly was the story of our Maker brought to our minds as ever was done by the communion table, or the cross. " As we lay there watch- ing the stars twinkle one by one, no one will or can ever know perhaps of the sentiments that occupied many of our minds, until far into the night. I singled out one lar^e and brilliant star and named it the " Star of Bethlehem." I almost fancied I could see it move. On all occasions, however, will one have thrust into his ear these misnomic allusions about the Arizona deserts. One man, apparently an intelligent gentle- man, said to me in riding over one of the stage lines on the Colorado basin : " I tell you sir, these lands will never be worth the paper the deed may be written upon. Never! Let PICTUEKSQUE ARIZONA. 21 7 anybodj'- have them that wants them. I would give them for the asking." He was emphatic. lie knew it all, evidently — or thought lie did. "But! My dear sir," said I, "Plow do we know what may develop to prove that these lands maj' be good for something yet?" " I don't care," said he a little irritably " they never will be worth the paper the deed is made on. Besides/' said he, endeavoring to retain a little respect for his temper, "you can only argue for a thing by what you know." He could not have said anything that would have given me better ground for my argument The ba- rometer for argument was rising in me. His last re- mark stirred an old theme, and I said; "Yes, true, my dear sir, but here is just where your great error lies, and where man lacks a great mental scope ; where acting upon what he knows only, he lays down theo- ries, and allows no license for what he does not know. He unwittingly and virtually asserts there is nothing beyond what he does really know, which is the worst of all egotisms." The old fellow gave me a penetrating glance for just a moment, and then said, " Ah ! you're too intricate, young man." "Yes! and it is this ignorance of these 'intricate' 218 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. . things that often work the greatest harm, and keep the world back in all its practical philosophy." The argument ended here. I learned afterward that this old man was dyspeptic, and had eaten nothing for either breakfast or dinner but a glass of cold water and a cracker. I had eaten on each occasion two beef- steaks, a broiled chicken on toast, about a quart of frejoles (Mexican beans), and all other things in pro- portion. He had to pay his dollar, however, as well as 1, this being the price of a meal in Arizona, whether it be a "square meal" or — or a meal at all. He was jealous of me. While I had paid due reverence to Artemus Ward's admonition to "always look out for your 'stumik.' " At Maricopa Wells there is an oblong isolated mountain range — known as the Sa-de-la-Estrella — one end of which shows a most beautiful and perfect pro- file of the old historic chief of the Aztecs, Montezuma — so recognized by the tribes throughout the country. It is on the southern spur of the range. The moun- tains are named the Montezuma Mountains from this fact. I have never been able to see profiles with any accuracy or readiness; but I must confess that this profile of a human face carved or hewn in this rock by some gigantic power will show itself readily to ninety-nine out of every one hundred people. But if accuracy in detail of a mountain is to govern the PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 219 name, then to my mind these would command the name of Washington. I for one, am less acquainted with the physical appearance of Montezuma than of Washington ; and from that stand-point come to my decision. Here, as bold as life, between heaven and earth, stands the Father of our country But I must give up my prejudices. We are dealing with Aztec land now, as identified with our own. We have spo- ken of this profile as a "beautiful" profile. At the hour of one of Arizona's setting suns, it supports this appel- lation emphatically. Here, with its golden hair em- blazoned with the fire of the setting sun, and the tinted nose of a dark shadowed blue, and with a more perfect light on his breast showing a continental ruf- fled shirt-front, Washington (Montezuma) faces the west in all the boldness of outline relief, and with a positive and admiring air that would seem to re-echo the words to all the world, "Westward the course of empire takes its way."' The Indians have a tradition that the famous Mon- tezuma is buried in this mountain, and that some day he will come forward to deliver and redeem his people. This superstition extends south, way into Mexico. Not a stone of this mountain will any of the Indians in the neighborhood touch upon any consideration. So far does this legend of this natural statuary extend that even in Mexico I was told, when there in 74, '220 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. that some fires which I saw kindled by the Indians, and over which I noticed some formal and solemn performance took place, was in anticipation of the coming of their great chief Montezuma down from the north, where he was resting in his happy hunting grounds. In some locations I understood, these fires were kept burning almost constantly at certain seasons or on certain occasions, to hasten or invoke his com- ing, evidently feeling their depression which has been a national calamity with them for time immemorial. JPAPAGO INDIAN WOMEN GOING FOR HAY. CHAPTER XIV. THE INDIAN— THE PIMO, THE MARICOPA, THE PAPAGO, THE ZUNI, THE MOQUI— THE A.PACHE— THEIR DIVERSITY. SO divided and sub-divided are, and have been the various tribes of Indians in the Territory of Ari- zona, for the past few decades, that it would take a vol- ume in itself to enumerate and describe them. Many of these too, are so insignificant in numbers as well as unimportant in history, and are so thoroughly on their "hist legs," that it would be useless, had we both time and room. So interested had our party became with Indian life; and so much in excess of anything we had yet seen, in point of numbers, and in permanent settle- ments were the Pimos, that we made a stop here longer than usual, and had our ideas of Indian life very much exalted by doing so. The Pimos are loca- ted on a rich and fertile strip of land two hundred miles from the Colorado River, east. Although to a man just from the Yosemite the plain might seem a 224 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. little tame, the back-ground of picturesque mountains that jut up and relieve the valley plain, with the little Indian village of dome shaped dwellings scattered along the foreground is interesting. They number a little over four thousand, including the Maricopas, who, about the year seventeen hundred and sixty, allied with the Pimos. The genial character of this tribe (or these tribes) must be w T ell established, they having held strongly to their alliances to the present time. Their little huts are built with reeds of various kinds, nearly upright, slanting a little toward the cen- tre with a domed top. The height will average about seven feet and the whole is covered over with a layer of mud plaster. A description of the Pimo Indian will disappoint the school boy who starts at the word Indian with visions of scalping-knife and tomahawk, and a head ornamented with flying feathers. But lie must wait until he comes to the Apaches to have his fancies realized. All over this village may be seen the Pimo women going to and fro, on some active mission of labor; while over the whole sunny reservation may be seen patches of peas, beans, pumpkins, melons, and vegeta- bles of all kinds ; while vast fields of wheat, barley, corn and the larger crops may be seen further off. Sorghum has proved a profitable crop in this valley. In 1863, they sold seven hundred thousand pounds of wheat and A MARICOPA INDIAN GIRL PICKING BERRIES. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA 227 flour to the government garrisons and travelers and mi- ners through the southern Gila valley. One might say this looks a little like business, and have a curiosity to see this people. Nor can the people nor the government in its Indian policy claim any credit for this condition of these Indians. As early as the sixteenth century Father De Nica from Mexico found these people culti- vating the soil. For three hundred years they have been known then to cultivate this land. -How much longer we have no authenticity to show ; and I was informed hy good authority while in Arizona, that du- ring that time it is pretty well established the land has never been manured in any way, and that two crops a year is the accustomed yield. These facts speak well both for the Indians and for Arizona lands. The average yield of wheat is twenty-nine fold. The crops are planted in December and July. The morality of this Indian is deplorable, while the social customs are interesting. The mode of courtship is, that a young Indian approaches the hut of his sweetheart. He does not reach it at this stage of pro- ceedings, but selects some comfortable rock for a seat or some tree or bush, and there remains in anxious re- pose for a certain length of time — an hour or so we believe it is, while his horse he ties to a tree near the house. This he does for three days. If the maiden favors him she will feed his horse, and the jig is up* 228 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. lie goes any time after the three days and claims her. When a husband dies the wife is offered to any man who wants a wife. This is done at the grave, after sufficient mourning has been made to satisfy their grief. There is no law, however, to prevent the widow from continuing to mourn a reasonable length of time. It being a custom among these tribes for the women to do all the toiling, while the men are considered to have ample on their hands in hunting and attending to the cause of war; a well and able-bodied woman does not want long for the protection and love of a man. This matter of the apportionment of work to the males and females seems to be identical in all the Indian tribes of our country. They seem to think the trials of war, and the vigilance required in hunting to keep the house- hold supplied with meats, is sufficient to offset all other labors of whatsoever sort or kind, for all others are heaped upon the women. It is somewhat sadden- ing to a person used to the civilized world's regard for women to see these creatures trudging along the trail or road, with a ponderous basket strapped on her back, packed with many pounds burden, while alongside of her rides her husband on a horse with nothing in his hand but his gun. In many cases the person will be her son ; while the mother will be an old and feeble woman. In one case, I actually saw one of these old women, a cripple with a staff. The young man rode PIMO INDIANS AT HOME. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 231 along with as unconcerned a smile as though lie had just shot a dozen quail on the wing with one shot. Well! perhaps he had. The morals of these Indians are bad. The mission- ary labors for seven years, have been, apparently, ab- solutely lost. Not one convert is reported to have been made, and licentiousness is becoming more and more prevalent. In their native siate and before the influence of the whites, however, the Pimos are re- ported as strictly virtuous, not tolerating any incur- sions whatever, upon the marriage system. Southeast of the Pimo reservation one hundred miles, is the Papago reservation. These together with the Pimos may be considered the model Indians of southern Arizona, except the Moqui in the extreme northeast, who are the best in the State. Their reser- vation consists of over seventy thousand acres, and their industry is proverbial. Being nearer to the mountainous or elevated portions, they are inclined to pastoral pursuits rather than agricultural, although both are represented well. The Papagos resemble the Pimos with some few traits peculiar to themselves. They once belonged to the tribe of the Pimos, and and speak the same language. As far as records show, these tribes, which number over ten thousand in all, have sustained themselves by civil pursuits, and have always been friendly to the whites, and anxious 232 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. to learn of, and pattern from them. Had it not been for these Indians, which constitute the larger share of all others in the Territory, the white man would not to-day be able to travel with safety from the Colorado River across the plains to Tucson and to the rich mines to the east. Contrary to the Pirnos and Papagos, the word Apache has for many years been identified with scenes of bloodshed and murder, theft and treachery. These comprise six separate tribes, and occupy the eastern and southeastern portion of the State. It is hard to conceive of so close a proximity of two classes of people, recognized under the head of "In- dians," and yet so thoroughly different, occupying the same land at all. It suggests, however, that though peaceful in nature they were war-like and brave in spirit when necessity required it. The most warlike and desperate of all our American Indians save the Sioux, they have never-the-less been driven back and held at bay by the other and more docile tribes. Numbers and bravery of course were in their favor. The following constituted the force of the Apacl e in '76; under the following chiefs: — Is-kilte-shy-law with twelve hundred Warriors; Ma-guils with four hundred Warriors ; Pedro with three hundred Warri- isiiiiii A SQUAD OF INDIANS AT A GAME OF CARDS. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. '13b ors; Es-ki-min-i-gui with — Warriors; Diablo with three hundred Warriors. By this it will be seen that their wliole force could not have exceeded two thousand available warriors. Their success too, was founded more on their treach- ery and stealthiness than on their bravery. They were, in fact, what the name of one of their chief's wculd imply — " Diablo " in Spanish, meaning Devil. Their warfare consisted in murdering innocent men, women and children, as many a grave, and skeletons of wagons, horses and human beings throughout the Territory will attest. So sly and cunning were they, and so skilled in their art of trickery, that their depre- dations would almost amount to sleight of hand. While sitting and talking with them, they would steal a hat from off your head and you not know it. They occupy the eastern portion of the State ; but their in- cursions extended throughout the whole Territory un- til 74, when their chief — the remarkable Cochise, died. This Cochise was the terror of the country. His many strongholds were almost impenetrable to any but Indian experts, and always commanded some public highway. Often in traveling through the Territory men would dr^> from their horses, ignorant of where the cause came from ; or would be in an instant and without any warning beset by these "devils" who would seem to rise right up from the ground. * * * 230 PICTURESQUK ARIZONA. But no matter what the diversity may be in these dif- ferent nations and tribes of Indians, the most interest- ing are those of the Zuni and the Moqui inhabiting a section of country in the extreme northeastern part of Arizona, and extending into New Mexico ; The Mo- quis are in Arizona, while the Zunis are in New Mex- ico; and while our party are spending the night with this interesting people, the Pimos, I will give some entertaining facts concerning the Moquis and Zunis of the northeast. AN -UNWELCOME VISITOB. CHAPTER XV. THE ZUNI AND MOQUI— THE MODEL AMERICAN INDIAN — THEIR VILLAGES— MODES OF LIFE— MORALS— REBECCA AT THE WELL— GAMES AND PASTIMES— A SACRED RITE— SHREWD- NESS — HOSPITALITY. ALTHOUGH not existing wholly in Arizona, the proximity of the Zuni and Moqui villages and its people, the Territory together with its associate inter- ests, prevent us from passing this wonderful people unnoticed. The old tribe of the Zuni inhabit a region extend- ing on both sides of the line between Arizona and New Mexico. They are destined to prove, or, perhaps are the most interesting of all our aborigines, probably on account of our ignorance of them. The habitation of these people comprise seven cities — three of which are known as the Moqui villages, and are in Arizona. The main Pueblo or village is situated in the fertile and picturesque Zuni valley. The first and leading feature in a visit to this people is their village, or the system under which they exist as a community. The whole tribe of the Zuni, which 240 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. in 76, numbered about three thousand people, live in one settlement. Their houses are not detaclied as in ordinary cities, but are a system of houses massed to- gether in one grand structure, in the following manner. An elevated section of country which overlooks the surrounding lowlands and valleys, is selected. A position on this elevation, where portions of it gives a slope of perhaps 45° or more, is also chosen. Up this incline, the houses, or the sections of the one grand house, are built — the one over-lapping the pre- vious one to about a quarter or a third of its area. The one in the Zuni valley is six stories high, com- mencing at the first house, or at the bottom of the hill, you approach by a ladder, to the top of that house, and there you find the entrance (or the front door) of that house, in the place where the skylight of an Amer- ican house is situated. From the roof of this house you approach the same way, by the ladder, the top of the succeeding house, or section of the great house, and proceed to enter it as you did the previous one. So this system is carried on throughout this communal condition of life. The size of the whole may be com- prehended when we say it covers twelve acres. The second leading feature is the type of some of the sub- jects. A few have nearly white hair, resembling gen- erally what is termed an English tow-head. It is only occasionally you will see one ; and whether these are a MI-SIIONG-I-NI-YI. -A VILLAGE OF THE MOOLTS IN NORTH-EASTERN PART OF ARIZONA. " PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 243 phenomena in the one race, or a remnant of another, is as yet, a query to the ethnologist. Also, specimens will be found exhibiting pink or blue eyes. Both of these classes are however, rare. In the absence of any method of chronicling events being found among them, they afford ample scope for the culture of the histo- rian. Where they came from is as anxious an inquiry of the ethnologist as the question " Where are they destined to go to?" is with the psychologist or re- ligionist. It is supposed that the style of dwellings is the result of necessary protection of by-gone times. Whether Cortes and his allies; whether more subse- quently, the treacherous Mexican desperado of which at no distant day this countiy, was infested, perhaps either of these could best tell us, or whether the un- merciful persecutions of a more formidable tribe of In- dians, is a question perhaps the ancestors of the war- like Apache of Arizona could answer. I am of the opinion it was some condition of the latter. All the region of country included within the limits of New Mexico and Arizona already traveled over or explored, brings to the surface new evidences of persecution, annihilation or submission. One body of ruins covering an area of many acres on the east side of the Colorado, between Yuma (Ari- zona City) and Ehrenberg, exhibit one of these inter- esting sections, where nothing remains to trace the 244 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. origin, duration or occupation. Whether it was an extensive camp of permanent miners who were mur- dered by Indians, or ransacked or annihilated by out- laws, is likely to remain a secret. Id the absence of positive knowledge we are apt to concede it to the rapacity of the more fierce and warlike Apaches. Although void of any system of chronicling events, like all the Indians of our West, the Zuni are in all other respects far superior, from the Anglo-Saxon stand-point of civilization. They are thrifty and fru- gal. Their lands extend for a distance of ten miles east and west of the boundary line between Arizona and New Mexico, and seem to have been chosen with good discretion as they embodj' some of the finest agricultural lands on this region. For the distance of upwards of a hundred miles south of the Zuni vil- lage there is an arroya embracing a series of small vallej 7 s, watered by mountain streams and a system of natural springs which, could the device of man cause to share their lot with the otherwise fertile soil of the so called deserts of the western part of the State, would cause that emblematic desert rose to assume all its brilliancy. The little valley of the Zuni is about six miles wide at the longitude of the Zuni village, and runs jnst here, almost due east and west. The Zuni village is located on the north side of the Zuni river, which runs directly through the centre of the PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 245 valley. The valley is dotted here and there with mesas, on one of which the Zuni villages are built; and from the elevation of which, ranging from twenty- five to a hundred feet, a most charming view may be obtained for three miles each way across the valley. It reminds one somewhat of the cheerful views in many of the upland valleys of Mexico. Valleys, hills and dales, nooks, rocks, and the like, present here that necessary diversity that pleases the sight, and which characterizes the Territory of Arizona as the traveler goes eastward. The crops of these people are raised without irriga- tion. Their principal products are corn, wheat, barley, pumpkins, melons, beans, and most of the vegetables ; and in importance and quantity range in about the or- der given — corn being the largest crop. Over the mesas and in the beautiful valleys may be seen hand- somely arranged garden spots equal in neatness and attractiveness to those of the Teutons. Peach or- chards varying from a quarter of an acre down. Red pepper, garlic and the smaller vegetables are raised in gardens of various dimensions, and the gardens are symbols of symmetrical neatness and cleanness. They are attended and enhivated by the women and chil- dren. Although in this respect, they would seem to resemble the Indians in custom; but from the fact that the men give their energies and time to the 246 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. field products, they would seem to be a medium be- tween the aborigines and anglo-saxon element, Tliey reminded me in this respect very much of the German. The gardens do better with some little irrigation, and the women and children do this by carrying water in vessels resembling the Mexican olla, placed on their heads. The ollas are of all sizes, and hold anywhere from one quart to ten gallons. The wells are of an original plan. They have no windlass or a means of a "drop." The ground is first dug until water is reached. An incline is then duo- down to the bottom of the well, from a point sufficiently distant from the mouth of the well, to give it an angle for easy walking, digging out all the earth, and leaving a complete road- wa}' to the bottom of the well or spring at the lower end of the hill. One of these wells I saw, measured forty feet deep and twelve square and had an incline approach of one hundred feet. It is an odd and pleas- ing sight to watch these " Kebeccas " trotting down to the well with their vessels on their head, and from their neat appearance and docile manners one has a profound respect and an exalted opinion of Indian life, after having come from the land of the greasy "Dig- ger" or the rapacious Apache. In their gardens one will scarcely find a weed. In the morning the men may be seen going in files to their fields — that is, provided you " turn out " at five PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 247 in the morning. The division of work and rest for the day is very similar to the most semi-tropical countries. They go to the fields at early dawn, return to break- fast at ten o'clock (having taken a small morsel of something before going out, the same as they do in the West Indies). They do do work again until about three in the afternoon, avoiding the broiling sun, then they return to the field at that time and work until sun-down. The country being a pastoral one to a very large ex- tent, much stock is raised. The principal ot which is sheep. On one occasion in 1872, one of the Caziques made his daughter a present of three thousand head of sheep. Goats, cattle, horses, mules, burros, (a species of the jackass) hogs, chickens etc., form no small part of their possessions. These people are very domestic. The men do not gamble nor become as a rule, intoxicated ; a condition that has become almost identical with the most of American Indians. The chastity of the women is proverbial, and the morality of the men is beyond reproach. In the Zuni villages, women are as fair as alabaster, and as pure as virgin marble. Even to this very day it can- not but be gleaned, by an association with them, that any one who would tamper with their sacred virtue would meet with the fate of the famous guide, Ester- 248 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. van, who suffered death for having secretly made love to their women. Their pastimes consist in music and dancing, and games, the chief of which is that known among them as paleto. It is curious to see them exert themselves at this game. It is the national game. One might sit for some time and watch them, and then have a longing to join them in their skip, hop and a jump. It is performed after this fashion : — A line of men and boys are formed, in their bare feet. Any number may join in the game. The head one takes a stick (the Paleto) between his big and second toe. With this he starts off, giving two hops and a jump, at each jump, allowing his right foot to touch the ground, giving him a powerful spring. All the rest are now following close behind. Their course is round a common circle. If the paleto man drops his stick, the next, without stopping, picks it up with his toes, placing it in the same position as the other be- tween his big toe and the next. If he misses, he drops out of the line while the next Indian behind tries his luck. If he picks it up lie continues on until he drops it and then he drops behind to the rear, as the one who previously had done. And so they keep up, he only dropping out of the line who fails to pick up the stick when the leader lias dropped it. Thus it keeps up until all but one has failed to pick up the PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 251 paleto when dropped, and he is claimed the victor. This is witnessed b}' a large gathering of the women, who, clap or shout at any great alacrity of the. per- formers, and the last one is hailed as a sort of King o' the day; has a wreath placed upon his head, and is the recipient of honors, and of presents occasionally. This game is performed on a larger scale on fetes or holidays, and is a source of great merriment. Many a maiden will watch her lover with the most selfish anxiety for his success, and many sucli lovers will " lose the paleto' from the simple fact that the maiden is watching him. On fete days these games or per- formances generally end in grand processions. They have many fete days in which many historical events are commemorated. On the evenings of these days a sort of religions feast or entertainment is usually held. It is performed with great pomp and reverence. A performance which was enacted with grand ceremony attracted our attention. Some animal, usually a quadruped of some kind, this time a rabbit, was placed on the ground with his head toward the east. In its fore-paws, which are stretched out before him, is placed an ear of corn. Before this, the spirit man takes his position with a bowl of meal and with lan- gunge and gestures the stranger does not understand' consecrates this meal. This being done, the animal and the ear of corn are sprinkled thoroughly with it, 252 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. and a solemn exercise of prayer and consecration is gone through with. After this the animal is allowed to remain one day, and then taken up and eaten as a consecrated feast of thanksgiving lor an abundant har- vest. On these occasions no Mexican is allowed to enter their domain and see their processions. The men and women alike, pet, idolize — fairly u worship" their children. Their abodes are superior — in fact, cannot be compared with what we under- stand as Indian huts. In style and material they re- semble Mexican buildings except their houses are built as we have described, en masse, communial — one and each supporting the other. The principal room where the members of the tribes receive friendly visitors, are on an average nine feet high, with seats running around the structure generally coverect with some unshorn skin of an animal such as a goat, sheep, wild cat, etc., making it preferable to a hard board for the 'sitter. The floors are of stone, and the rooms are as a general thing, neatly whitewashed ; which is more than we can say of the average Mexican resi- dences met with in Arizona. The}' are clean and neat always. One singular thing exists. No vermin are to be found in the whole town; neither rats, mice, roaches nor bed-bugs. A species of head lice is the only thing in that line, that ruffles their temper or destroys the equilibrium of their nerves. They are ;§>;v THE FREE INDIAN GIRLS :-AN-TI-NAINTS, PU-LU-SU AND WI-CHUTS. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 255 keen in trade — never getting excited or in a hurry, and "drive a bargain" with all the shrewdness of a Chatham Streeter. With an anglo-saxon training, these people, I shouM judge, would become one of the greatest policy people in the world. The spirit is innate in them ; for, until the break of friendship be- tween you and them is made flagrant, no outward manifestation is made of any slight antipathy that may exist between you upon slight provocations, that could, be detected by an outside observer. The same hospi- tality, provided you are admitted within their limits at all, is extended to all: another evidence where the brain power has control of, and keeps the sentiments and impetuosities at bay. Let your visit be at any hour of the day or night they welcome you with this spirit. If in the night even, the same invitation for you to parlake of refreshments, or to drink some of their beverages, is extended. CHAPTER XVI. THE MOQUI AND ZUNI CONTINUED— THEIR DRESS— MANUFAC- TURES— GOVERNMENT— THE SEVEN CITIES OF CIBOLA— THE THE ARK AGAIN — A PRESENT FROM PRESIDENT LINCOLN— THAT PERSISTENT MISSION— MAJOR POWELL'S DESCRIPTION. THE dress is of a cotton tunic, with a loose girdle, extending to the knees. In cold weather a blan- ket, made more generally by the Moqui tribes, is worn. Some of these blankets aie of the richest de- signs, and will last a life time. They arc mottled with all colors and devices, and resemble, and would make very fashionable and serviceable lap robes as used in American metropolitan life. Some travelers have been known to pay as high as one hundred dollars for one of these blankets, and it is estimated that to some of them a whole life time has been devoted. Col. R. J. Tlinton has one of these blankets or shawls for which I think he said he paid forty dollars, but for which he would not take one hundred dollars cash. It puzzled the whole party to decide how the different colors were blended. The thread seemed to be a tightly PICTURESQUE ARIZOXA. 259 twisted or " water-twisted " one, of fine wool — a thread which among our modern manufacturers, is considered of the greatest durability. Remembering the primi- tive modes possessed by the Indians, it is a marvel how they can produce such perfection. The women wear an outer garment falling from the neck to the ankle, girded at the waist, with tassels hanging from the girdle to the feet. Woolen leggins and high moc- casins of different designs ornament their feet. The arms of the women are generally allowed to go bare, (except in such cooler days or parts of the year when they wear the wrapper or blanket spoken of above) exhibiting an arm and hand that many a so-called belle would be proud of, except that the hand will show the effects of a little closer intercourse with the material things of the world — dish cloths and slop- pails — for instance. When they conceal those arms under the wrapper, however, it seems to be with as much grace as the best of 'em. Their hair is black and thick like the ordinary Indian, but they wear it with more taste, and something after the fashion of the Chinese women. Their government is more after the civilized code than Indian. It consists of a governor; and what might correspond to our Lieut. Governor. An Alcalde (or Mayor). Three Tenientes (or Police commissioners) 2(50 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. who are responsible for the good behavior of the peo- ple, and twelve Caziques (or councilmen). The head Cazlque serves during life, and is called the Wakamano. The Governor also serves for life. The others are all elected yearly. The war chief during peace conducts the different kinds of hunts. All orders — for the government and control of the tribes are given by the Governor in person from the top of the central house to his Caziques, and the orders are then distributed in the different locations or different sections of the grand house by them. They walk over the different places crying at the top of their voices, the order as given by the Governor — the story of the town cryers of old resuscitated. In times of threatened raids from the Apaches or Navajoes, or impending dangers of war, they will not only congregate en masse in, and around their aerial city, but will drive up all their stock on the mesa, and once there they can bid defiance to an armed foe much greater in numbers than their own. It is supposed that these are the seven cities of Cibola which Coronado, with an armed force of Spaniards went, in 1540, from Mexico to conquer. It will be remembered how the in- habitants, although with primitive utensils of war, and with vastly inferior numbers, conquered the Spaniards. This was done by rolling huge boulders from the height, hurling missiles, arrows etc., at and down upon PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 263 their foes, ns they would endeavor to ascend the mesa. " These people too, have their tradition of the flood. They say they have lived in these mountains and among these valleys ever since the world was de- stroyed by a great flood. Tlieir ancestors got into a floating log which happened to be floating along. This log in the course of due time, and as the waters "soaked into the earth," landed on a high peak of the San Francisco Mountains. Shortly after their num- bers increased rapidly, and the Apaches attacked them, killing the most of their tribe, and the remainder jour- neyed north to where they now live. Since this time, with their natural fortresses of defence, to be found in the mesa, together with their watchfulness, they have defended themselves against all odds. The old Gover- nor — Governor Pino by name, can l>e often seen walk- ing through his little city with the air and spirit of a truly modest guardian. On special or state occasions, the Governor carries a gold-headed cane which was given him by President Lincoln. "In the centre of the town stand the remains of the old Catholic mission. It has not been used for wor- ship for over one hundred years. How old the mis- sion is, I am not possessed of sufficient facts to say. Some records date back as far as 1732, — some older records, being obliterated. Two old bells which re- main still in the belfry are stamped 1689 and 1751. 264 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. From some cause the priests of the cliurch were ban- ished from the place by the Zunis about one hundred years ago and have not been permitted to return since. We give a few additional interesting extracts from Major J. W. Powell's letters to Scribner's Magazine, in relation to this people: " By day the men hunted and the women gathered berries and the other rich fruits that grow in that coun- try, and at night they danced. A little after dark a fire was kindled, and the musicians took their places. They had two kinds of instruments. One was a large basket tray, covered with pitch inside and out, so as to be quite hard and resonant; this was placed over a pit in the ground, and they beat on it with sticks. The other was a primitive fiddle, made of a cedar stick, as large round as my wrist and about three feet long ; this was cut with notches about three inches apart They placed one end on a tray arranged like the one just described, placed the other end against the stom- ach, and played upon the fiddle with a pine-stick bow, which was dragged up and down across the notches, making a rattling, shrieking sound. So they beat their loud drum and sawed their hoarse fiddle for a time, until the young men and maidens gathered about and joined in a song: ' Ki-ap-pa tu-gu-wun, Pi-vi-an na kai-va.' (Friends, let the play commence; all sing together.) PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 265 Gradually they formed a. circle, and the dance com- menced. Around they went, old men and women, young men and maidens, little boys and girls, all i n one great circle, around and around, all singing, all keeping time with their feet, pat, pat, pat, in the dust and sand ; low, hoarse voices ; high, broken, scream- ing voices ; mellow, tender voices ; but louder than all, the thump and screech of the orchestra, " One set done another was formed; this time the women dancing in the inner circle, the men without. Then they formed in rows, and danced, back and forth in lines, the men in one direction, the women in another. Then thej' formed again, the men standing expectant without, the women dancing demurely within, quite independent of one another, until one maiden beckoned to a lover, and he, with a loud, shrill whoop, joined her in the sport. The ice broken, each woman called her partner, and so they danced by twos and twos, in and out, here and there, with steadily increasing time, until one after another, broke down and but three couples were left. These danced on, on, on, until they seemed to be wild with uncon- trollable motion. At last one of the couples failed, and the remaining two pattered away, while the whole tribe stood by shouting, yelling, laughing, and scream- ing, until another couple broke down, and the .cham- pions only remained. Then all the people rushed 2CG PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. forward, and the winning couple were carried and pushed by the crowd to the fire. The old chief came up, and on the young man's head placed a crown of eagle's feathers. A circlet of braided porcupine quills was placed about the head of the maiden, and into this circlet were inserted plumes made of the crest of the quail and the bright feathers of the humming bird. I have said that the ceremony was in honor of Mu-ing- \va, the god of rain. It was a general thanksgiving for an abundant harvest, and a prayer for rain during the coming season. Against one end of the kiva was placed a series of picture writings on wooden tablets. Carved wooden birds on little wooden pedestals, and many pitchers and vases, were placed about the room. In the niches were kept the collection of sacred jewels, little crystals of quartz, crystals of calcite, garnets, beau- tiful pieces of jasper, and other bright or fantastically shaped stones, which, it was claimed, they had kept for many generations. Corn, meal, flour, and white and black sand were used in the ceremony at different times. There were many sprinklings of water, which had been previously consecrated by ceremony and prayer. Often the sand or meal were scattered about. Occasionally during the twenty-four hours a chorus of women singers were brought into the kiva, and the general ceremony was varied by dancing and singing. The dancing was performed by single persons or by PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. *>67 couples, or by a whole bevy of women, but the singing was always in chorus, except a kind of chant from time to time, by the elder of the priests. My knowl- edge of the language was slight, and I was able to comprehend but little of what w r as said ; but I think I obtained, by questioning and close observation, and gathering a few words here and there, some general idea of what they were doing. About every two hours there was a pause in the ceremony, when refreshments were brought in, and twenty minutes or half an hour was given to general conversation ; and I always took advantage of such a time to have the immediately preceding ceremony explained to me as far as possible. During one of these resting times I took pains to make a little diagram of the position which had been as- sumed by the different parties engaged, and to note down, as far as possible, the various performances, which I will endeavor to explain . " A little to one side of the fire (which was in the mid die of the chamber) and near the sacred paintings, the four priests took their positions in the angles of a somewhat regular quadrilateral. Then the virgin placed a large vase in the middle of a space, then she brought a pitcher of water, and, with a prayer, the old man poured a quantity into a vase. The same was done in turn by the other priests. Then the maiden brought on a little tray or salver, a box or pottery 268 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. case, containing the sacred jewels, and, after a prayer, tlie old man placed some of these jewels in the water, and the same ceremony was performed bj each of the other priests. Whatever was done by the old priest was also done by the others in succession. Then the maiden brought kernels of corn on a tray, and these were in like manner placed on the water. Sbe then placed a little brush near each of the jDriests. These brushes were made of the feathers of the beautiful warblers and humming-birds found in that region. Then she placed a tray of meal near each of the priests and a tray of white sand, and a tray of red sand, and a tray of black sand. She then took from the niche in the wall a little stone vessel, in which had been ground some dried leaves, and placed it in the centre of the space between the men. Then on a little wil- low-ware tray, woven of many colored straws, she brought four pipes of the ancient pattern — hollow cones, in the apex of which were inserted the stems. Each of the priests filled his pipe with the ground leaves from the stone vessel. The maiden lighted a small, fantastically painted stick and gave it to the priest, who lighted his pipe and smoked it with great vigor, swallowing the smoke, until it appeared that his stomach and mouth were distended. Then, kneeling over the vase, he poured the smoke from his mouth into it, until it was filled, and the smoke piled over AX INDIAN HUNTER. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 269 and gradually rose above him, forming a cloud. Then the old man, taking one of the little feather brushes, dipped it into the vase of water and sprinkled the floor of the kiva, and, standing up, clasped his hands, turned his face upward, and prayed. ' Mu-ing-wa! very good ; thou dost love us, for thou didst bring us up from the lower world. Thou didst teach our fa- thers, and their wisdom has descended to us. We eat no stolen bread. No stolen sheep are found in our flocks. Our young men ride not the stolen ass. We beseech thee, Mu-ing-wa, that thou wouldst dip thy brush, made of the feathers of the birds of heaven, into the lakes of the skies, and scatter water over the earth, even as I scatter water over the floor of the kiva ; Mu-ing-wa, very good.' " Then the white sand was scattered over the floor, and the old man prayed that during the coming sea- son Mu-ing-wa would break the ice in the lakes of heaven, and grind it into ice dust (snow), and scatter it over the land, so that during the coming winter the ground might be prepared for the planting of another crop. Then, after another ceremony with kernels of corn, he prayed that the corn might be impregnated with the life of the water, and made to bring forth an abundant harvest After a ceremony with the jewels, he prayed that the corn might ripen, and that each kernel might be as hard as one of the jewels. Then 270 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. this part of the ceremony ceased. The vases and the pitchers, and jewels, and other paraphernalia of the ceremony were placed away in the niche by the mother. At day-break on the second morning, when the ceremonies had ceased, twenty-five or thirty mai- dens came down into the kiva, disrobed themselves, and were reclothed in gala dress, variously decorated with feathers and bells, each assisting the other. Then their faces were painted by the men in thiswise: a man would take some paint in his mouth, thoroughly mix it with saliva, and with his finger paint the girl's face with one color, in such a manner as seemed right to him, and she was then turned over to another man who had another color prepared. In this w T ay their faces were painted yellow, red and blue. When all was ready, a line was formed in the kiva, at the head of which was the grandmother, and at the foot the virgin priestess, who had attended through the entire ceremony. As soon as the line was formed below, the men, wilh myself, having in the meantime re- clothed ourselves, went up into the court and were stationed on the top of the house nearest the entrance to the kiva. We found all the people of the village, and what seemed to me all the people of the surround- ing villages, assembled on top of the houses — men, women and children, all standing expectant. " As the procession emerged from the kiva by the PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 271 ladder; the old woman commenced to chant. Slowly the procession marched about the court and around two or three times, and then to the centre, where the maidens formed a circle, the young virgin priestess standing in the centre. She held in her hand a beau- tifully wrought willow-work tray, and all the young men stood on the brink of the wall next to the plaza as if awaiting a signal. Then the maiden, with eyes bandaged, turning round and round, chanting some- thing which I could not understand, until she should be thoroughly confused as to the direction in which the young men stood. Then she threw out of the circle in which she stood the tray which she held, and at that instant, every young athlete sprang from the wall and rushed toward the tray, and entered into the general conflict to see who should obtain it. No blows were given, but they caught each other about the waist and around the neck, tumbling and rolling: about into the court until, at last, one got the tray into his possession for an instant, threw it aloft and was declared the winner. With great pride he carried it away. Then the women returned to the kiva. In a few minutes afterward they emerged again, another woman carrying a tray, and so the contests were kept up until each maiden had thrown a tray into the court-yard, and it had been won b} T some of the ath- letes. About ten o'clock these contests ended, and 272 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. the people retired to their homes, each family in the village inviting its friends from the surrounding vil- lages, and for an hour there was feasting and revelry. During the afternoon there were races, and afterward dancing, which was continued until midnight." A SCOUT OF THE NAVAJO INDIANS IN NORTH-EASTERN ARIZONA. CHAPTER XVII. THE ANTIQUITY OF THESE INDIANS— ARIZONA S VICISSITUDES — CONQUERED AT LAST— AMERICA'S DARK AGES— A COSTLY BONFIRE— PRESCOTT — HUMBOLDT — BANCROFT — TO THE LAND OF ANCIENT LORE BY RAIL ! IT is a well-known fact that the antiquity of these people is one of the many subjects connected with Arizona that is ; and lias been ever since the time of the Spanish conquest, taxing the investigation of man. As Governor Safford once said : " There is probably no portion of our domain where such a variety of Indians live, speaking so many different dialects, as in Arizona." And we might add of so many different customs and natural characteristics. In regard to the Znnis and Moquis it is now asked, u Ave they Aztec, Toltec, or what? " The nearest we have got to it yet is that they are "whatever" they m;iy be. They may be the descendants of the remnants of some par- ticular tribe, or the remnants of a score of tribes that suffered the incursions of the sixteenth cen- tury, consequent upon the invasion and conquest by Cortez. What a revolution was there ! What a turn- 2*6 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. ing upside down of institutions of a civilized, culti- vated and refined people, who are now forgotten and almost obliterated by the lapse ot time. A people, perhaps, scientific in the extreme, and whose institu- tions in many respects equalled, if not excelled, some of those of our own civilization. With the opening up of Arizona, the reward to us may be commensu- rate with our difficulty and delay of getting a practi- cal admission to her. More obstacles, and perhaps oftener, have been thrown in the way to retard the opening up of Arizona than perhaps any other por- tion of our country. In addition to the most formid- able and desperate tribes of Indians that ever com- bated the approach of civilization, the position of Arizona, subjects us to the incursions of the treacher- ous Mexican banditti, who are as ready and willing to profit by any misfortune or weakness of his neighbor as the most ruthless Indian. Its position too, sub- jected it to a great drawback in 1861 and '63 by our civil war ; and at a time when she was again budding with success. Some men, like communities are often found in their egotism, congratulating themselves on the ad- vance — the progression they are making, having an infallible belief that progression, is a magnate taking no back tracks, and meeting with no diversions ; that we never lose, but always gain. That we did not lose A NAVAJO INDIAN BOY. - . AN ANCIENT WAtt DANCE JF THE APACHES. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 277 anything in the destruction of the Alexandrian library, or that if we did it was chaff compared to what we gained immediately after, or by the very destruc- tion itself. Or that by the dark ages, although admit, ting they were irksome and disagreeable in themselves- nothing was lost. Others there are who claim to see a complete revolution in all things ; who claim a com- prehensive distinction between progress and change; who rather glory in finding that which was lost, claim- ing nothing new under the sun, and who concede that the dark ages are the great Machiavels of time who cunningly and stealthily crowd themselves in to baffle the philosopher in his course, and who simply cover up — hide, things for a limited period, for our employ- ment and amusement in finding again. From 1520 to 1530, then was the " dark age " of the North American Continent. Enough was covered up during those ten years to take all the science, work, and philosophy of centuries to unearth. This we know. But we do not know but that there is much that will never be discovered, nor even dreamed of. The most of these belong or are connected, in some way with the people of whom we have barely made mention, and of whom if volumes were written, which has already been done, one could scarcely do more. To what extent these facts exist may be made clearer 278 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. by reference to the historian, Prescott. Prescott says : Book VI, Chap. 8 : "Yet the Aztecs must have been in possession of a much larger treasure, if it were only the wreck of that recovered from the Spaniards on the night of the mem- orable flight from Mexico. Some of the spoils may have been sent away from the capital ; some spent in preparations for defence, and more of it buried in the earth, or sunk in the waters of the lake. Their menaces were not without meaning. They had, at least, the satisfaction of disappointing the avarice of their ene- mies. " Cortez had no further occasion for the presence of his Indian allies. * ' * * * * * They carried off a liberal share of the spoils, of which they had plundered the dwellings — not of a kind to excite the cupidity of the Spaniards — and returned in triumph, (short-sighted triumph !) at the success of their expedition, and the downfall of the Aztec dynasty." The memorable night alluded to above was that which is the present patron saint day of Mexico, — the day of St. Hypolito — and was selected and handed down as such from the circumstances connected with it. Prescott also says, in speaking of the great quanti- ties of the line arts that is known to have existed PICTITEESQUE ARIZONA. 279 among the Aztecs at the time of the Spanish con- quest : — " The first archbishop of Mexico collected these paintings from every quarter, especially from Tez- euco, the most cultivated capital in Anahuac, and the great depository of the national archives. He then caused them to be piled up in a 'mountain heap,' as it is called by-the Spanish writers themselves, in the mar- ket place of Tiateloco, and reduced them all to ashes." Humboldt said : — " The Mexicans (Aztecs) were in possession of annals that went back to eight and a half centuries beyond the epoch of the arrival of Cortez in the country of Anahuac." Bancroft tells us also, that the Aztecs retained many traditions and systems of the Toltecs " whose written annals they also preserved." He also says that at the time of the arrival of the Spaniards, there were great quantities of manuscript treasured up in the country. A recent correspondence to the Philadelphia Weekly Press, says: — "At the time of the conquest of Mexico, Cortez found in Mexico a people millions in number, according to his account, enjoying a high order of civ- ilization. Their government was a confederated em- pire of many states, a rather highly organized system implying large political knowledge and practical states- manship. Their religion was one of peace and love, if their temples filled with flowers and birds and fountains, and their daily life and conversation and 280 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. the many virtues transmitted to their descendants to- day — if these works are any evidence of their faith. They had wealth of gold and silver, and artistic work- ers in their precious metals. Thej had fine houses and great public works, temples, aqueducts, roadways. They had a calendar measuring the solar year more accurately than ours, and requiring readjustment not every four years, but only once in half a century. They had full records of their own civilization and history, but they were richer yet in the possession of ample and authentic records of the races before them." All these annals and paintings met the same fate. All things in short connected with this people that fire would destrojr, was obliterated from the face of the earth. It eclipsed the decline and fall of the Roman empire, and the worst features of history repeated themselves in the new world. Science has heretofore been confined to the ancient recesses of the old world. But only a short space of time will elapse when the steam car alone will lead us to a new field of labor in this channel ; curiosity and pleasure will follow closely in the wake of ambition's stronger impulse; and Arizona, New Mexico, and our southwest generally will resound with notes of the choicest ancient lore. The tide of pre-historic study, will be suddenly transferred to our very doors, and the flash of our ignited torch cast a lurid glare on even a pre- Adamite existence. CHAPTER XVIII. THE GREAT CASA GRANDE — IMPRESSIONS — A PALACE, CASTLE OR WHAT ?— A BILLOWY SEA OF GREEN— THE PUZZLE OF PUZZLES. ALTHOUGH in the mines and in their mining lies the chief value and support of Arizona, if not of the nation so to speak, the pre-historic land-marks that exist on every hand in our southwest — and not only these, but the actual existence of the prehistoric people (in their descendants) that yet remain in a goodly number, constantly attract an additional class of people, in our scientists, archeologists, travelers and tourists. In the east as well as the west — in the south as well as the north, many evidences of these have been already discovered. Major Powell, in his recent ex- plorations on the upper Colorado River, reports ruins along its banks and on its Plateaus ; and Gov. A. P K. Safford tells of some in the nearer northwest. A little to the southeast of the Pimo Indians, about ten miles off lies the ruins of the great Casa Grande of Arizona. It would seem modesty and good taste in 282 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. me to refrain from an extended description and refer- ence to these ruins, except so far as to give a general idea of their appearance, and to complete the import- ant features of the Territory ; and then to say to the reader, there they are. Indeed in this, have we told all we know. Since the year 1694 when Father Kino from Mexico gave the first account of them every wri- ter or narrator has drawn largely upon his imagination and still harder upon his knowledge, to throw some light upon these somewhat ancient structures. But we know nothing. The whole is mere conjecture. After having driven a distance of ten miles southeast of the Pimo villages (or the same distance southwest from Florence), the traveler strikes upon a vast open land, slightly undulating, aud backed or encircled by picturesque mountains. The land here for miles is just diversified enough with growths of different kinds, as well as by the peculiar contour of the land to make the perspective pleasing ; the undulation in some cases amounting to small hills. If an observant traveler, you will notice in passing over some of the undula- tions, that they are oblong, and are remains of an acequia or aqueduct. This conflicts a little with the sentiment under which you have been traveling, and flattering yourself that you or your people were the first civilized or intelligent beings that ever trod this soil; you are amazed when by mathematical demonstra * PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 285 tions, you find the grading and building of these ace- quias to be based upon practical principles equal to any our present science is able to conceive. You are now ascending a gentle grade, and a few rods bring you face to face upon a high ruin of — you don't know what ; but suppose from its shape, an ancient house, supplemented on all sides by smaller ruins, of perhaps smaller houses, or of sections of the main house. Then all your energies of imagination and conjecture are strained, and the interest in the surroundings has increased. The spirit that often looms up in mute ob- jects, holds you fast and talks to jou of things }^ou know not of, and yet tells you not of them. All that interest, enhanced by mystery, wells up in you, and you are riveted to the spot. You are standing on an ele- vated plateau from which you look out upon a very gentle decline, rolling in its nature, and covered with thousands of known and unknown plants and shrubs. Over this billowy green your eye is carried to the mountain outlines, and beyond. Beyond the moun- tains even, in the translucent atmosphere, your eye seems to wander, and if the weather is especially clear, or the time of day late, the halo, of which we have spoken in connection with other mountains, will lend a beautiful back-ground to an already grand perspec- tive. The scene is a beautiful one, and the outlook commanding. You are standing now close by, or 286 riCTURESQUK ARIZONA. leaning against the walls of the great Casa Grande. You turn and look upon them. You step back and lift your head to comprehend the whole structure more at a glance. The structure, or rather the main ruin, as it remains now is about sixty feet high on an aver- age, hy about forty b}^ fifty in area. "We notice apper- tures on the ground level which we suppose to have been door places, and above we see the square open- ings for windows. As we do so and comprehend these as an outlook, we turn about again and behold the grand stretch of country around on all sides, for many, many leagues. Allowing our imagination to supply the extra distance from the ground, or actually climbing up with some difficulty into the breaks, we take a second survey of the land we would crave to call our own. As we do so we are compelled, con- trary to our egotism, to admit that at least, beings with some art and poetry in their souls, whether they be born of God or of the devil (as an early explorer sug- gested) had selected this spot for their castle. The ex- tent of the smaller ruins around, also, and the remains of an acequia or aqueduct running around the grounds for nine miles, suggests the existence, at some previous day, of a potent city ; and from the strength and duration of their walls, a well made one. We descend again from within these dumb and tantalizing walls. They will not speak to us. We have to shake PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 289 hands with ourselves for what we know. The Indians have a tradition that these ruins existed five hundred years ago. Down and outside, we turn and look again at the remnant of centuries. You have by this time been worked up to a pitch of the highest interest. Who were these people? you ask. Where did they come from ? and what was their end ? And, like all before you, you have to answer them for yourself. No one can tell you. His- tory has beaten itself. Now comes the Arizona prob- lem again! Were they Aztecs? or, were they Tol- tecs? Did they live in the inglorious age of the Span- ish conquerors, and were they crushed and annihilated by them? or were they of the earlier Toltec age, and swept off the face of the earth by the more warlike and ferocious Aztecs from the north in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries ? You try to throw some light upon your ignorance by the character of the neighbor ing country and its human life. Now you are puzzled. To the south, you trace the native Mexican Indian, a personification of laziness, and intermixed with the inglorious elements that perhaps was the destroyers of the very light you crave; producing a race whose energies would scarcely build a single wall, much less a palace. To the north you have the Pimos, and Papagos ; docile, industrious and affectionate in peace ; brave and fearless when at war, yet slow to '290 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. anger and merciful. To the east, a little way off, the murderous Apache looms up with all the horror of murder and death. A little further to the north again are the Moqui and Zuni people, as much different from the former as the soul from the flesh ■ whose habits of life and industry, are proverbial for integrity and pros- perity ; who embody all the finer sentiments of a truly cultivated soul, whose love for one another is only equalled by their bravery and nobleness. In all these I say, we see such a vast diversity of the human race, we ask to which can we ascribe the descendency of people who once inhabited these ruined structures. Were they so scattered by some crushing power that each fragment has become an isolated portion, in a frame- work that lias created a separate and distinct race ? Were they the Toltecs crushed by the Aztecs ? or, were they Aztec crushed by the ignoble — the inglori- ous Spanish crusaders of the sixteenth century? Were they objects born of the devil against whom the Christian was in duty bound to carry on the work of extermination ? If so, nobly did that Christian do his work ! These interesting, and perhaps valuable relics to the unearthing of some lost or pre-historic knowledge, are fast going to decay. Even the little knowledge we have of them, should with a possibility, compared to a greater, warrant the government in protecting and PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 291 preserving them. It is estimated that upwards of one hundred thousand people inhabited the Gila valley in Arizona at one time. CHAPTER XIX. FLORENCE — ITS UNIQUENESS — ANXIETY FOR COL. GRAHAM- FALSE ALARM— MODERN RUINS— THE OLD MISSION BUILD- INGS — SAN XAVIER DEL BAC. OUR party was in good spirits when w r e left the Pi mo villages; and our reflections of the experi- ence with the interesting people and their dwellings often recurred to our minds. The recollection of their many quaint narratives concerning their relation with the whites, and of their peculiar life, has often enter- tained me in solitude since. A half day's travel from the Pimo villages brings you to the quaint old tow T n of Florence. I say " quaint " and " old " town. You can hardly say old or new. It is a little of both ; and the two extremes are more forcibly met with here than perhaps anywhere in the Territory, except, per- haps at Tucson, which town is beginning, under the American ambition, to aspire to something more than one story adobes. But the very combination of these PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 293 extremes makes it quaint. Here you "will find the primitive Mexican or half breed Indian adobe hut; the log cabin; the Anglo-Saxon American cottage among a cluster of cotton-wood or willow; and the aborigines' tepis. The slight elevation of this place with its cooler bracing atmosphere over that of the hotter valleys of the Gila or Colorado, is a promising feature for its growth. It also has a beautiful valley bottom contiguous to it, which will at no distant day open up a fine farming country. The elevation is about five hundred feet. The pattern of the city re- sembles very much, Salt Lake City, Utah ; having its streets cheerfully cooled by running streams of living water, brought down from the Gila by artificial means, and having these streams edged with a growth of cotton -wood or willow. We had not to drive far from the Pimo villages to the next hacienda or station. Here we learned for the first time on this tour, of one of those entertainments common on highways and especially on our frontier — a stage robbery. Like all traveling parties over our new West, our own had passed many a moment in con- versation on this subject while wending our way over mountain, plain and mesa. We had decided just what we would all do in case of an attack. One of us would grab the fellow by the hair; (if there happened to be two, we bind the other one — or choke him); 294 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. and if more, we would shoot the whole lot of them — with compassion of course, but as a matter of self-de- fense and protection. There were two of our party, however, not participants in the conversation, and they enjoyed hugely, the good will and determina- tion of our friends to rid the desert of its unpleasant visitors ; but as well did we enjoy the credulity of these self-same deliverers. The whole secret was, we two had " been there before ; " and knew that in case of an attack, their good intentions would fail as com- pletely as had their bravery given impulse to their threats. The stage from Tucson that morning, had been robbed. Col. Graham had left our party on that morning and gone ahead to Tucson just before we learned of the affair, to make additional arrangements for our further travels into the southeast. We felt a little anxiety on his account. He was naturally, in lieu of his mission, laden with more or less of just such " trash " as would have been acceptable to these "road agents." Had I myself been aware of the ex- perience with these agents that lay in store for me on my subsequent return — my interest in the affair could not but have been vastly greater. Subsequent knowl- edge, however, relieved our anxieties, and the prepa- rations we found at Tucson, on our arrival there, for our further progress, was sufficient evidence that not hide nor hair, nor the pocket, of our fore-runner had PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 295 been disturbed. It was the incoming stage that had suffered. Directly south, about seventy-five miles, lies the now ambitious town of Tucson, the metropolis of the State, and at one time the capital. In visiting Tuc- son, one has virtually visited the phlegmatic Mexican condition of life, as completely as though he had been to Mexico, or to some hamlet of suburban Spain. The American traveler spends just time enough here to find out how many of his own countrymen have found a home within its limits, and congratulates them upon their hopes of meeting their reward in the future. Perhaps he will stay long enough to get drunk; to see a cock-fight, or go to a bailie — a Spanish-Mexican ball. To the south of Tucson, nine miles, lies the old Mission of San Xavier Del Bac, in a remarkably good state of preservation. The missions of our southwest, many of which are now in ruins, constitute a feature of attraction. They might be known as the modem ruins, as distinguished from ancient ruins applied to the evidences of unknown structures everywhere to be found over the lands of southern California, Arizona and New Mexico. Although being in a good state of preservation, and yet being opened to service for a half civilized, remnant of a mixture of the Mexico- Indian blood, it is virtually a ruin. It is, however, the best preserved in the Territory. It was founded 296 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. in 1690; but the present edifice was erected about the year 1785, as near as I have been able to determine by data. This would make the establishment of the mission nearly two centuries old. A description of these buildings, with their dimensions, etc., although elaborate, bold, and conspicuous in themselves, might lack interest, resembling, as they do, any grand and gorgeous Catholic church in our thickly populated cities. But contrast makes both interest and beauty. Associations make in fact, the thing itself. Take away the associations of a thing, or the condition in which, or upon which, the thing exists, and you have changed it to all intents and purposes, to something else. To ride miles and miles then, across a level country, seeing nothing but what you might conceive consisted in just the bare platform of earth placed there by the hand of nature for subsequent use, to see as if by magic, one of these structures, equal in all its metropolitan adornments, planted where it would seem there was no fruit to nourish, strikes you curiously. All over this land you come in contact with these modern ruins of the religious zeal and fervor of the Jesuit Father of the seventeenth and eighteenth cen- tury ; and in noticing the few and beggarly squads of a people who are neither Mexican, Indian or what is commonly known as an American, you see the tenac- ity with which religious fanaticism holds fast to itself. 1 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 299 Approaching one of these edifices, a person ignorant of their presence, would give vent to surprise and awe. The deserts over which he has been riding has given no sound, nor shown the work of any hand, and you have seen, in nature's almost nothing, the greatest something. In your long travels and your long ab- sence from home and civilization, new and original thoughts have crowded upon you. You have thought as you never had thought before, and dreamed of things you never saw. "Why should you not? the mental, like the mortal man, is on new soil ; and is the mind not a plant? Does it not grow? Aye! and what a sad growth is this growth of the mind ; for if it grows athwart, and yet, for what, nor how, the com- mon growth knows not, 'tis hewn down, to rot, but really manures — enriches the soil for subsequent better growth. In this is its glory. On ! On ! you go over the vast stretch of country before you, unmindful of hidden merits and virtues. Your mind has become dreamy. You have come within the pale of some gently rising slope unnoticed. You have skirted its gentle slope unawares, when, turning suddenly some abrupt side, one of these missions — bold in contrast; asserting in spirit, and gorgeous in display, stops you short. Peace and quiet are its only companions. You go 'round it, and are anxious to confront it more boldly, and urge to get on the side which designates 300 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. its front You are weary for some communal spirit. You would talk with it. But when in front, you find the doors closed, and often barred with the bolt of time and decay. But presently, while standing mute and writing your own brief history on the pages of your thought, one of the doors quietly, stealthily opens, and a solitary Peone or half breed Indian emer- ges from the place in all the solemnity of a person celebrating mass. Perhaps he has just finished this, or some as solemn a rite. The door is softly closed behind him. All is yet the embodiment of a perfect quiet. In the soft spongy earth, not even the tread of the worshipper is heard. Perhaps in the tower or some secluse corner of the building, there is a remaining bell which you had failed to find out. One ! Two I Three ! its peal breaks suddenly upon you as if moved by spirit hands. In the penetrating stillness, you had heard a sound. It re-echoed the plains and deserts wide ; and in its familiar, notes formed a connecting link between you and your home. Nothing could stop you from walking around and gazing for awhile upon that bell. Each toll was a wail for broken power — each knell a cry for sympathy. Presently the door re-opened and there emerged from within a modest retiring priest with downcast head, nor looking to the right nor to the left, but keeping the " straight and narrow path " PICTURESQUE ARIZOXA. 30 1 to the hut of some benighted inhabitant of the plain I shall never forget an experience of this kind in a visit several years ago, to the old mission San Juan Capistran. CHAPTEK XX. THE KNELL OF PARTING POWER— THE TOLLING OF A CONTRITE BELL — ALONE WITH THE SPIRITS OF CENTURIES— TUBAC — THE MISSION RUINS OF SAINT JOSEPH— TUMACACORI — THE SANTA CRUZ VALLEY. TUCSON is the northern limit to these old missions in the Territory of Arizona ; but to the west, in California, they may be found as far north as San Francisco, where the mission Dolores is located. One does not have to go far from the mission San Xavier Del Bac, before he comes upon another of these modern ruins. Sonth, a few miles from Tubac, is located the old mission ruins of the Saint Joseph Mission of Tumacacori. Many matters of interest are connected with this mission. The interests in all are very diversified. Some will tell of frightful obstacles at the time of the establishing of them, and others will tell of a series of constant tribulation. The history of them as far as the church is concerned, is but compar- atively little known except by that church. The Jill k.o^SBS- PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 303 church of Tumacacori is in total ruins, it having been effectually destroyed by the Apache Indians some years ago. The ruins stand about three miles back from the town of Tubac, in the valley of the Santa Cruz : and the history of this mision can perhaps only be equalled by the interesting facts that exist concern- ing every section and every object in the whole valley. These missions, or the place of their location has always been selected with some special interest in point of rich mineral or agricultural lands — perhaps for the better pecuniary support of the cause. This is particularly the case with this region of the Santa Cruz. This valley and its surroundings have been dwelt upon for both its richness and beauty, by all writers ; and perhaps none the less for the diversity of its changes and hardships, than for its riches. Per- haps the very richness was the cause. It is this re- gion that the story is told of the Padre and the salt- cellar, in exemplification of the vast silver deposits in the mountains about. The Padre* had received a fel- low Padre on a visit. Everything had been gotten that it was thought would please and show respect At dinner one thing was missing, however, that at- tracted the guest's notice. This was a salt cellar. He made known his grievance to the host. The host being much mortified, apologized for not having one in his possession. Stopping to think for a moment, he fin- 304 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. ally said he would have one in a very few moments. He immediately despatched one of his subjects to the mountains near at hand to procure some silver ore. The man returned in less than half an hour with a quantity of ore from which a solid silver salt-cellar was moulded, and the fastidity of the sacred guest sat- isfied. It is well known that years ago, there was, within a radius of sixteen miles, one hundred and fifty silver mines. Broken remnants of the furnaces, cru- cibles, etc. etc., used in smelting, may yet be seen in and about the ruins. The valley of the Santa Cruz cannot be over-esti- mated for its beauty and fertility ; and when condi- tions become at all stable in this country, it will rap- idly assume to one of the JEldoracloes of the Territory. As varied in its beauty, and rich in both ils agricul- ture and mineral resources, so has equally been its re- versions; and as rapidly almost as pen could tell them. Cozzens, in his " Marvelous Country," says it was a a very attractive place, with its peach orchards, and its pomegranates." This was in 1860. No sooner had he these words out of his mouth, than our civil war put an end to enterprise here ; turned progress and ambi- tion into scenes of strife and bloodshed; and con- verted a thriving and promising present into a dark and abject future. Prof. Pumpelly describes Tubac as a "restored ruins of an old village." ; Tubac to-day is PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 307 a mass of adobe ruins ; but with the development of the mines in and about the region, which is promised by the Toltec Syndicate of mines, of San Francisco, we may look for a rapid transition. CHAPTER XXI LEAVING TUBAC— THE NINEVEH OF AMERICA — SILVER-LINED AND VERDURE- CLAD— THE DAWN OF ARIZONA — BOLD MOUNTAIN SCENERY— THE SANTA RITAS — THEIR MINES. AT dnjr break we were anxious for a start with a double interest in view; we were to visit the Santa Ritas ; and we were to stop on our way and see the old ruins of the ancient mission church at Tumac- acori about three miles from the town of Tubnc. It was a brilliant morning, the rarity and clearness of the atmosphere drawing the mountains almost up to our very threshold. Some few of the Spanish-Iudian- Mexican element were out basking in tbe morning sun. We have remarked before, what a diversity of interests and combinations and characters Arizona af- fords. In this place one is forcibly reminded of trav- eling among the ancient countries of the east. With its handful of deserted and ruined mud houses, one and two stories high, with evidences of an attempt at some previous day, to arches, pillars, columns, etc., one is reminded of a Nineveh or a Babylon. These PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 309 old ruins seem now to have no ambition but to crum- ble away and become things of the past. One build- ing I noticed, larger and better preserved than the rest, had a cupola. This was the old presidio, or fort. The place is not wholly deserted, a few of the houses being inhabited by the phlegmatic Mexican greaser waiting for " something to turn up." The principal object of ambition and life consisted of a flock of goats owned by the man who kept the overland stage hotel. (The reader must be well acquainted with this class of building in Arizona by this time.) The goats, having a predilection for high elevations, will often occupy the top of the ruined walls, which gives the whole a quaint appearance to the newcomer, who views this scene for the first time. Looking in the direction of the Santa Ritas we real- ized we were approaching a section of country more diversified and picturesque. As we neared the foot- hills and crossed ravines and gulches, we mounted plateaus stretching for miles away, and abounding in prolific growth, choking themselves with each other for the very ground's sake, on which they thrived. Here we would cross an extended mesa, and there gradually wend our way up some gentle hill-side, lead- ing up to the base of the ruder mountain. Here, we will ford some gentle running stream and flnall}^ find our way into the gorges and defiles of the mountains — 310 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. mountains silver-lined and verdure-clad. The land included in our trip from Tubac and into the heart of the Santa Ritas reminded us of frontier trips in fair California of old, when the camp and the log hut were the fashion ; but with California as an incentive, and the immigration from the east, which is already vastly on the increase, Arizona will not exist so long in embryo as did her neighbor State, California. In addition to her mineral wealth, the grazing lands of Arizona will attract remarkable attention henceforth. Arizona is full of a system of small clusters of moun- tains seperate and distinct in themselves, thus giving throughout, a vast area of foot-hills and elevated pla- teaus favorable for sheep and goats. At no distant day the whole eastern Arizona — the San Francisco Mountains, the White Mountains in the northeast, and the Santa Ritas and Cero Colorado in the southeast will be a marvel of shepherds and their flocks. Approaching the Santa Ritas the effect is a pleasing and cheerful one. It relieves the barrenness of, and forms a very consoling contrast to the sanely mesas you have traversed in the forepart of your journey. Leaving the Santa Cruz valley, j^ou pass a pretty un- dulating prairie land, and to the head of 3^011, you have a second view of the picturesque and fertile San Ga- briel valley in the Southern part of California. So well is this valley reproduced in the approach to the PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 311 Santa .Ritas that you almost fancy it is trying to rival its neighbor State. You look in vain for the exten- sive wheat fields and orchards of a Baldwin, or the rural and sanitary hotel and lovely grounds of a Cogs- well. And it would not take half the nerve and judg- ment of either of these worthy Californians to grasp the opportunity to utilize these mountain lands to the same extent. Amid the breezes wafted over this charming lea from the canyons of the Santa Ritas is destroyed the recollections of the heat of the desert and puts in one the vim of a miner and prospector. "With the unlimi- ted product of grasses, the pleasing and interesting specimens of the cacti of this capricious land, yielding everything, and the narcotic and invigorating air which was constantly wafted into our nostrils as though it was a solid substance rather than a gas; and lastly with the silver tongued Santa Eitas looming out before us, summoning us to share her opulence, is it any wonder that our spirits were allured to build air castles, or our nerves and muscles strengthened for the most arduous toil ? To the front old Plcacho del Diablo, ^rolls boldly out upon the plain, capped by its commanding peak, one of the two great peaks of the Santa Eitas, the highest south of the Gila River. In and around the rugged sur- face and crevices, of her barren walls, we knew, was a fa- 312 riCTURESQUE ARIZONA. vorite defence and fortress of the murderous Apache. From behind these natural breast- works, many an inno- cent prospector and sturdy pioneer has been popped off his buro or horse, and the animal taken to add strength to these mountain devils, for further raids. Just before reaching the immediate vicinity of the Santa Ritas a peculiar formation of rock in a deep gulch or ravine attracted the interest of all our party. Large, oval and columnar shaped rocks protruded from the banks, and others stood upright in the centre like sentinels. They were of lime and sandstone formation ; but in shape resembled some of the rock formations of the upper Colorado Canyons, or of the immense columnar basaltic rocks on the Columbia River, in Oregon. The ones in the centre reminded us of mum- mies capped with a prodigious flat broad crusty forma- tion, as if they had got their custom from the huge sun- brimmed hats of the Jesuit Fathers that came up into this country in the seventeenth and. eighteenth centu- ries; or from the sombrero of the more modern Mexi- can. Sentinel-like, these interesting objects guard one of the approaches to the Santa Ritas. Over knoll and meadow, gulch and plain, invigora- ted by a dry atmosphere and brilliant sun, as alluring as one ever had in crossing over the Sierras on the Central Pacific Railroad, we traveled on, cheered by the knowledge that in two hours more ride, we would *«?* SAND STONE FORMATIONS FOUND IN THE RAVINES OF THE SANTA RITA MOUNTAINS. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 313 be at the works of the Aztec Company's mines, where we were to be led into all the interesting and wonderful modus operandi of opening up rich mining districts. To the members of the company themselves, there was one all absorbing interest — the very one that had been the incentive to the journey itself. Recent crop- pings had assa}^ed $343,86 to the ton ; and their object was to arrange for putting the mines under active operations at once. CHAPTEE XXII. THE EL PICACHOS— A LAND OP MASSACRES— COCHISE— A MOUN- TAIN CABIN— TALKING MINES— A DREAM OF WATERFALLS, VALLEYS, CANYONS AND CAVES. ONE hour before reaching the mines of the Aztec Company, however, we were to pass the ruins of what was once the works of the old Tyndal or Santa Rita Mining Company. The stories of Indian massa- cres and depredations connected with this place, sug- gested a halt. To the one side of us reared the great El Picacho of the Santa Ritas ; another of these " guiding stars " of the plains spoken of elsewhere. To the other, the " Teats " adds ruddiness to the scene ; and the brilliant sky, the balmy air, and the sparkling sunlight, made us think, act, enjoy — with a corre- sponding vigor. The term " El Picacho " meaning in its literal translation, the " point of rocks," one is puzzled when he has tbe "El Picacho" pointed out to him in a thousand different places in Arizona. It PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 315 would be more comprehensive to say a "point of rocks " or signifying in some way that it was the Pica- cho of that particular location only, and for these rea- sons : The Picachos of Arizona, as intimated by our comparison of it to a "guiding star, "are numerous and serve to guide the traveler in most all directions. They exist equally throughout the land. They rise to a great height above all neighboring peaks, and can be ?een for a distance of from one hundred to two hun- dred miles distant. The one spoken of in the Santa Ritas, can be seen from a circuit of one hundred and fifty to one hundred and seventj-five miles, guiding the traveler thereby in the direction of the Santa Ritas. We all dismounted or left our wagons here ; to stand for a few moments in the midst of ruins which, could they have talked would have chilled our blood and made our hair stand on ends. We all walked around mute for a while, and as we would lay our hands on the rude adobe walls, or stumble over some loose fragment of stone, a thrill would go through our bodies something like that experienced by us when, in our school days we used to read the tales of a Kit Carson, or Yelasquez ; and later of the adventures of the many characters who have become identified with Indian massacres and their depredations. One of these ruined adobe* buildings, one in which the walls are the best preserved, is pointed out to us 316 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. as the scene of a most dastardly and cruel attack by the Indians a few years since. The Indians had been troublesome for some time but with great dexterity and watchfulness, the miners of the camp 1 had man- aged to hold their own. At midnight a body of the bloodthirsty Apaches under their powerful leader, and numbering ninety warriors fell upon the camp with yells and shouts and whoops. The fight was a formidable one, for the Indians attacked against odds ; and sweeping down in a bloodthirsty and determined assault surprised the whole camp. In the principal house — an adobe structure of three separate apart- ments on the ground floor — seven men and one wo- man held out all day against the treacherous red men, and finally beat them off. Being a strong mining camp, and the region being one of untold attraction for miners, the whole section of country hereabouts can tell more thrilling tales of Indian atrocities than most others. Col. R. J. Hinton, in his book on Ari- zona, in describing the Santa Eitas and its mines, says : " To the north and west is a bold but lesser cone, which it is proposed to call Hopkins' Peak, in honor of Gilbert Hopkins, a famous mining engineer, slain within the shadows of these mountains by the mur- derous Apaches. To the east and south of Mount Wrightson rises another and smaller peak, which has been called Grosvenor, in honor of another bold pio- PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 317 neer, who, in 1861, was slain near I he old hacienda at Santa Rita, shortly before Mr. TVrightson, the manager, of the Salero Company lost his life.'' J. Ross Browne's account of the manner in which one of the«e gentle- men lost his life, is thrilling. He says: "Not far be- yond the mesa, we enter upon a rugged region, abound- ing in breaks and arroyas very rocky and difficult for our horses. In one of these desolate places we visited the spot where Mr. II. C. Grosvenor, the last manager of ihe Santa Rita mines, and the last of the three man- agers whose fate was similar, was killed by the Apaches about two years ago. It appeai-s that a w r agon containing supplies had been sent out from Tubac and was on its w r ay to the hacienda, when the men who accompanied it were attacked and killed. Mr. Grosvenor and Mr. Pumpelly hud passed the wagon and teamsters a few minutes before and pro- ceeded to the hacienda. As the freight party did not arrive within a reasonable time, Grosvenor walked out alone to see what was the cause of the delay. The Apaches had meantime made their murderous attack on the teamsters and plundered the wagon; and were moving up the Canon, when they saw Grosvenor com- ing, and immediately formed an ambush behind the rocks and shot him dead, as he approached. His grave lies a few hundred yards from the headquarters of the hacienda. A marble head-stone, upon which 318 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. his name is inscribed, with the additional words, not uncommon in Arizona, " killed by the Apaches," marks the spot. By the side of this grave is another head-stone, bearing the name of Mr. Slack, his prede- cessor, who lost his life by this ruthless tribe of Indi- ans. Another of the managers also killed by the Apaches, lies buried at Tubac." Although the principal rendezvous of the formidable chief Cochise was in the capricious Dragoon Mountains the denies and gorges of the Santa Ritas used to serve him " on a pinch " we think, as he often availed himself of its natural fortresses, and partook of its hospitable camping grounds ; many objects of a rude character, such as a cluster of stones, board, or a stick stuck in the ground, and some improvised means of informing the passer by that "here lies the body of , killed by the Apaches," will testify to this. Holding converse here for a very limited time only with the spirits of some of the noblest and boldest pio- neers and frontiersmen of our country, and congratulat- ing ourselves that Cochise had gone to his happy hunt- ing ground (as he will have more facilities there) but hoping there are no white people with him, we take a hasty departure for the Toltec camp of the Aztec Mining Company. We have arrived. And now while seated in a log cabin, after a good mountain meal of PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 319 venison and quail, my mission being to portray to all the particular and leading features of Arizona's do- main, I will diverge again, and give to my reader a chapter of facts, fancies and figures, suggested by my impressions of this particular region. The part} r arc all bus}' talking " mines," and planning for the prospecting and inspection of their new mines to-morrow; computing the cost of bringi ng machinery and supplies to the place ; strengthening their confidence in their success by re- iterating the success that has already attended the McMillen, Globe, Peck and McCracken districts, and congratulating themselves on the hick of antimony, zinc, and sulphur the ore of Arizona are known to show. I am seated in one corner of the cabin with a glori- ous fire of logs to my back, with a rough plank board stretched across two logs at my side for a table. On the board was a turnip in which I had dug a hole and placed a candle. The fire cast its glare of light about the room, while the candle flickered a mellow accom- paniment to the sterner rays. Until reaching this neighborhood of the 111th meri- dian, although whatever other interests may and evi- dently have bespoken a glorious future for Arizona, the traveler may claim a lack of any general system of continuous mountains with its Yosemities, its Niagaras, or its canyons of a yellow-stone. But here, about two- 320 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. thirds the distance across the State in this latitude, the general features change, and as you proceed east still further the full change has taken place. From a land of the richest meadows and plain, you ascend by a system of mountains in an altitude where snow abounds in July. Lieut. Geo. M. Wheeler, of the United States surveys, said to me on one occasion while at his house in Washington, that he had rarely, if ever, beheld a more wonderful and beautiful range of country than that witnessed from the heights, of some of the mountains of eastern Arizona. What water-falls, what peculiarly wonderful valleys, what canyons exist unknown in this yet unexplored coun- try, is difficult to conceive. What natural topographi- cal curiosities lie hidden in this "marvelous country" can only be surmised ; and the surmises be equalled only, by the suppositions founded on the most justifi- able demonstrations. What there is to satisfy the more curious sight-seer and tourist in nature's realms alone, is perhaps but poorly demonstrated, compared to her sterner and more useful qualifications, and yet she is not wanting even in these. In the more northern part of the Territory alone, the famous Colorado is known by the reports of Major J. W. Powell of the United States Geological and Geo- graphical surveys, to possess features grand enough, and thrilling, to warrant the Territory a passport PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 321 in this respect. I will first give some of the topo- grapical features to support my theories, and then re- fer to the grand canyons of the Colorado Eiver, and to the river itsel£ CHAPTER XXIII THE MEETING OF THE MOUNTAINS— ARIZONA'S NATURAL WON- DERS—THE MICROCOSM OF THE WORLD— THE COLORADO — ITS CANYONS— ITS PLATEAUS— ITS CAPRICES— A HOME FOR THE "REPEATER" — THE INDIAN GUIDES OF THE COLORADO — A RIVER THAT " TELLS NO TALES." IN Arizona is centered the three great mountain sys- tems of the North American Continent. The Rocky mountains, the Sierras, and the great metal bearing Cordilleras of Mexico come together here, and cast themselves in her very midst. Here the series of metalliferous mountains to the north in Nevada, which has created so much furore over the whole country, and the mountains of untold wealth of So- nora in Mexico, come together as though they had some great difficulty to settle; and in the upheavals it seems as though they had spent all their force in the contest. What are the effects yet to be discovered, of such a clashing? In the very demonstrations of the conditions already known to exist, — that of the min- PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 323 erals — will the interesting and more wonderful features of Arizona be brought to light. By refering to a map of Arizona it will be noticed that a succession of mountainous regions find their way from the extreme southeastern part of the Terri- tory, to the northwest where the great Colorado bends on its course east and south. In this succession or system is located the famous Santa Catarina and Santa Rita mineral districts of the extreme southeast; the great silver bonanza district of the "Stonewall Jack- son " mine and the McMillen district ; the rich mines in and around Prescott, in its high and beautiful mountain elevation ; and lastly to the northwest, the rich and noted location of the McCracken mine, near the great bend of the Colorado, at which place, for natural wonders, Arizona may not be jealous, even of her sister State, California. In these higher regions platinum, too, is already traced. Col. R J. Hi n ton in his hand-book, says, in allud- ing to the peculiar and interesting mineral effects and phenomena in the highly charged electrical locations: " Similar phenomena from this cause have been ob- served in the Libyan desert, and on the Congo and Orinoco Rivers, which with other circumstances as to climate, etc., indicate that the Pacific slope is a micro- cosm of the world, where Italy, Egypt, Arabia, Tim- buctoo, Kamschatka, Brazil and the ' gem of the sea ' 321 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. can aJl be found within a week's travel of each other . more especially when the ' missing links' of railroad are complete." The Colonel could not have missed it, if he had used this similitude to all conditions of Arizona alike. In the great Marble canyon of the Colorado River, is a section where the walls rise to a height of six thous- and feet. Imagine yourself standing by the side of the mighty El Capitan in the Yosemite Valley, increased to double its height. Can you conceive it? Hardly; you are entering the grand canyons of the Colorado. From the summit, inland, extends an immense plateau with its meadows, lakes, etc. Being in a high altitude eight thousand feet above the level of the sea, snow can be found late in the season ; and yet sections of verdant hills and meadows are found in luxuriance. Immense herds of deer rove here at will ; and as well as destined to become a retreat for the sight-seeing tourists in its grand canyons and gigantic walls, the huntsman's gun will "crack " in these regions with most profitable results for ages to come. This is the land of the Rai vav-it Indians. Pine forests are abun- dant. It is said there is one place in these canyons, where the walls are so high and go close together, that it makes the place just dark enough for one to see the light of the stars in the heaven at day-time. It seems to me this must be the location referred to in the latter BUTTE IN THE UPPER COLORADO CANYON— COLORADO RIVER, ARIZONA. PICTUKESQUE ARIZONA. 327 part of the sixteenth century, by the early Spanish conquerors from Mexico, in their explorations to the north. They reported great and wonderful rivers, "the banks of which were three or four leagues in the air." Imagine walls nine to twelve miles high. This was the report of the expedition of Don Garcia Lopez de Cardenas, under direction of Coronado, in 1540. Either they, in their continued enthusiasm of the new country grossly exngerated the height, or we have failed to retain a knowlege of the location referred to. At one place there is a succession of these plateaus, each one of which is lower than the previous one, un- til from a plateau of country embracing all the cli- mates of a temperate zone, you approach to that of a semi-tropical. Each one of these plateaus end with an abrupt break or wall descending to one below. Sometimes the drop from one plateau to the other will measure many hundred feet, and even approach to the thousands. In one place, by a manoeuvre of the river, two plateaus are thrown in such a relation to each other that you can stand on one where snow is not an un- common thing in July, and where pines live and pota- toes grow, and throw a stone into a little semi-tropical valley where the sub-tropical plants grow luxuriantly, and the fig and the orange ; and the sugar cane and rice are being cultivated now by a sparse population. 328 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. New "El Capitals," new "Fort Rocks" and "Bridal Veils/' and other Yosemite freaks will, we may sup- pose, be opened at no very distant day to the sight- seer and the tourist. The length of the Colorado River is two thousand miles. About four hundred miles from its mouth, the river takes an easterly course, and extending a dis- tance of two hundred miles in the northern part of Arizona; and running up into Utah are the great Marble, Glen, and Grand canyons of the Colorado. In these canyons exist the glories of this river. The lower portion of the river is mainly on a level with the sea ; but in these canyons the river and plateaus range from four to fourteen thousand feet above the level of the sea; and in this distance of two hundred miles, the river falls five thousand feet. After leaving the region of the canyon the river takes a direct south- erly course and opens out upon a broad stretch of al- ternate flat lands, prairies, and deserts. The grand gorges of the upper Colorado and its ponderous can- yons have been passed, but you have entered a river which, for its whims and caprices, can scarcely be equaled by any navigable stream. Lacking the po- tent, ponderous stability of its upper portions, the lower, like a man jealous of his defeat in love or accomplishments, tries how far he can hate, or what a distorted compound he can make of himself, seems to iiABSLE CA> r YO^ or mi: coixxruro ravrii. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 331 glory in its very caprice and its contrariness. Eun- ning through a region often of sands and disintegrated earth, the river will often change its entire course in twenty-four hours. Boats coming down the river this week will find, in going up next week, the channel of the river has been completely changed, and that new islands have been formed, old ones washed away ; bar- riers, where before there had been plain sailing. To- day this or thai piece or strip of land, will be in Ari- zona. To-morrow in California. Land speculations along the banks of this river at present would puzzle the brains of our shrewdest lawyers. To-day the river would take a sweep around a section of land upon which had settled some thrifty farmer, cutting his farm in two, taking part of his land over to Arizona, and the next day continue its incursions and take the rest of his land, house and all, over with it. One day he lives in Arizona the next in California. This would be a good place for a "repeater " to live; or a sorry place for a good honest voter. These conditions, it will be seen, necessitates a con- stant changing of the course of traveling. Each sue. cessive trip is an exploration for " a new passage to the north " or south. Each steamboat, as it plys the river, and on each and every trip, has stationed at its bow, with lead and line, or pole (the river for the most part over these plains being very shallow), a stalwart 332 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. Indian measuring the depth of the water as the boat proceeds. In quaint accents of the true American Indian, and decidedly broken English, this half-clad Zuma or Apache will shout: "Three!" "Three and a half!" "Two and a quarter!" "Two!" "Two and a half ! " etc. etc. It sounds as though he said : " Thee ! " "Thee 'nlia!" "To!" etc. etc.; and as his voice goes forth smothered by the deadening sound of the steamboat, and in the stillness of the surroundings, you will fancy you are on a voyage up the Nile to discover its source. This again calls to mind the number of experiences all through Arizona, that will so thoroughly act as substitute's for distant travels in foreign lands, or among the different people and nations of the earth. Not only is this river whimsical in its coarse, but es- pecially capricious in its actions. Often some new feature of its unruly nature will be told. It is a river, they say, that does not give up its dead. A story of one of its manoeuvres was told me while at Yuma. It seems that in the river there will often appear on the top of the water a sort of air bubble ; after remain- ing a moment it bursts with the noise of a pop gun. Then commences a vociferous action of the water, as- suming a circular motion resembling a whirlpool. These are very powerful at first, but decrease as they become larger and finally die out. For a goodly dis- THE GEEAT CAMON OF THE COLODOEA EIVEE— AEI20NA, PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 335 tance, however, tbeir power is sufficient to take a small boat within their grasp, when it and its freight is never heard from more, for the bodies never rise. CHAPTER XXIV. REMARKABLE RUINS IN SOUTHERN ARIZONA— THE FOUNDERS OF THE AZTEC AND TOLTEC SYNDICATES OF MINES— THE GRANDEST PECUNIARY SUCCESS ON RECORD— THE BOLLAS DE PLATA (BALLS OF SILVER)— COL. J. D. GRAHAM. MEXICAN tradition, relating to the Primeria Alta, being that portion of Arizona Territory embraced within the Gadsden purchase, is full of statements in relation to rich lodes, deposits and old mines, whose sites are now lost. The chief of these locations are placed in the remarkable mineral region by which on either side the valley of the Upper Santa Cruz is sur- rounded. The Planchas cle Plata, or places of silver, around which has grown a well authenticated story of Mexican enterprise and Spanish greed and tyranny, has always been placed by the tradition within the borders of Arizona, but close to the Sonora line and to the east of the Santa Cruz valley, and the Oio Blan- co Mountains. Within the past few months it is PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 337 claimed that these extraordinary deposits have been re-discovered, and are now being quietly worked by an American miner and his associates. Chief among the traditional mines, for the re-discovery of which, the most daring and vigorous of search has been made since the occupation of the Primeria Altaby Americans, is the famous Jesuit mine, known by the name of the Old Mission, whose ruins have been so fully described in these pages — The Tumacacori Mine. Since Charles D. Roston, Herman Ehrenberg and their comrades first located an American mining settlement at tlie old pueblo of Tubac, six miles from the Tumacacori Mis- sion, there has been more of endeavor, enterprise, dar- ing and courage displayed in the attempt to re-locate this old mine, so famous in the mission annals for its rich- ness, than in all the other efforts made to hold the country against Cochise and his Apaches. Tradition, besides statements of its richness, almost fabulous in character, has left no other indication of its where- abouts than the declaration of one of the mission his- trorographers, — that the mine lay directly east of St. Joseph's Church (the Mission of Tumacacori) a morn- ing's walk, or as elsewhere stated, about fourteen miles distant. Recent investigation in the Sierra Santa Rita giowing out of the renewed activity induced by the enterprise and speculation, which organized the already successful Aztec Syndicate, and has made this 338 riCTURESQUE ARIZONA. beautifnl mountain range, the last stronghold of the Apache Napoleon, Cochise — the scene of vigorous ex- ploring efforts, opened numerous mines, established Toltec Camp and aroused a general interest in this re- gion, has also been able to definitely establish the existence and site of the lost Tumacacori mine. Following the milpas, or secondary mountain bench, from the farm of Joe King in the Santa Cruz valley which embraces the mission ruins) for some eleven miles, the traveler will reach the ruins of the old Ha- cienda del Santa Rita, where Wrightson, Grosvenor, Hopkins and Slack, lost their lives, and part of the defence of which in 1861, is so graphically described by Professor Raphael Pumpelly, now of Harvard Uni- versity, in his book " Across America and Asia. 11 A well defined road evidently long used, and now made quite easy and accessible, is the route from the valley. To the nortli, Salero Hill looms up boldly, and the explorer in search of the old Tumacacori mine will fol- low a rough but still good road for a couple of miles to the Salero House, used by the Tyndall Company since 1875. From this point for another mile or so ? the explorer will follow a rude bridle path to the Jefferson mine, one of the most valuable of those now worked by the Aztec Syndicate. To the north and east of the Jefferson for less than half a mile, an old mule track, evidently once heavily used, may be traced. MAP OF THE ANCIENT PROVINCE OF TUSAYAN, ARIZONA. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 341 It leads directly to a strongly defined lode of tlie same general character as the Jefferson and Georgia mines, and terminates at what is evidently an old shaft, now filled with debris, and from the mouth of which a vig- orous mesquite tree' may be seen growing. The evi- dence is abundant of old workings, and those best in- formed in the Mexican and Gaqui Indian traditions, like Professor Thomas Davis, who has resided and worked among them for more than a quarter of a cen- tury, have no doubt whatever, of the identity of the Bushell, as this location is now termed, with the long- lost site of the famous Tumacacori mine. The Bushell forms one of a group of ten valuable mines now being developed under the management of the Toltec Syndicate, an organization of experi- enced mining experts and operators, who have already proven their knowledge of the metalliferous richness of this region, and their confidence in its development, by their successful organization of the well known Aztec Syndicate. The Aztec Syndicate having passed into the hands of eastern capitalists by purchase, the original project- ors with the added experience which their wide knowl- edge of the Santa Rita and its mineral treasures has given them, have selected a group of ten locations, and commenced a thorough system of development and working. This project is not set up as a speculation, 342 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. but as an investment, to be honestly developed into an affluent enterprise. The fact that Colonel John D. Graham, the successful organizer and Secretary of the first Aztec Syndicate, has been appointed Managing Director of the Toltec Sjmdicate, is proof sufficient to all interested in Southern Arizona, of the success that will attend the enterprise. The Toltec mines are admirably located both for their present accessibility and the richness of the lodes on which they are situated. The Bushell and the Saint Louis Mining Companies have recently been incorporated in California, and the balance will speed- ily be put in the same shape. The offices of these companies and of the Toltec Syndicate, are located at No. 302 Montgomery Street, San Francisco. The first efficient Superintendent of the Aztec mines and prop- erty, John E. Magee has assumed the duties of Eesi- dent Superintendent of the Bushell and Saint Louis mines, on both of which work is being energetically pushed. He also has charge of the general interests of the Toltec Syndicate in the Territory. The Bushell, or old Tumacacori mine is now being opened, new shafts are being sunk, and the old one already described is to be cleared out at an early day. The ore developments are all excellent. The Saint Louis mine is located on the famous Empress of India lode, in the southern portion of the Aztec district. It PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 343 promises the richest developments of any location on that very remarkable lode. Ranging to the east and north of the Saint Louis, on the same lode and its spur, the Toltec Syndicate, own and are about to work the following locations : The Knoxville, Webster and Velasco — making a group of four valuable locations, on a remarkable lode that has been described in Hin- ton's Hand Book to Arizona, as "cropping out boldly, sometimes in high cliffs or with a general width of from eighty to three hundred feet. The lode is over two hundred feet wide, and shows metal the full width. In these shallow old workings, some three or four feet deep, we have picked out ore that will assay $800 per ton. The character of the whole lode is the same, and streaks of metal can be found of green and black sil- ver mixed with manganese from one end to the other; in some places yellow chloride. The vein matter is porphyry, gneiss and quartz, strongly colored with iron ; general formation incasing the lode is granite." To the north and east of the Empress of India lode, and of the Inca mine, (one of the best locations em- braced in the Aztec Syndicate) the Toltec own the Rickard and Ojero mines, both located on bold ledges, with cioppings that indicate rich veins. The Rickard, so named after the well-known English metallurgist, chemist and assay er, now living at Tucson, is located on the Rickard lode near the Colorado. The Forsyth VA4 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. another valuable mine belonging to the Toltec, adjoins the famous Hamilton mine to the east of Salero Hill in the Tynclall district, while " La Purissima " is a lit- tle south and east of the Bushell mine on the northern side of Salero Hill, and on th« s eastern end of the great Napoleon lode. The character of these mines — The Bushell and La Purissima — can be seen in part from the following moderately worded report on the latter location made August 13, 1877, by John E. Magee to Col. Graham : " The Purissima mine is on the Napoleon lode, one half mile from the old Salero mine. This lode crops out for over two miles showing good mineral at many places all the way. In 1875, Messrs. Ryan, Mansfield, and myself took up what we named the Jefferson mine on this lode and had some of the croppings assayed. The vein shows on the surface four to five feet, con- taining a great deal of galena. On the Purissima mine, tons of mineral can be taken right off the surface, which shows better than the Jefferson did. The Pur- issima is not so easy of access " (at that time occasional Apache raids made it necessary for miners to have an easy way of retreat. Their rendezvous then was the adobe building known as the Salero House.) " or we would have taken it in preference. On the Jefferson we now have a shaft sixty-five feet deep" (It is now much deeper.) " with a wonderful showing of ore. The PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 445 vein in the bottom is nine feet eight inches, solid good ore of fair milling quality, which assays $187 per ton average." This lode is all now taken np from one end to the other. It has an easterly and westerly direction. The vein in the Jefferson shaft pitches slightly south — hanging wall pure granite — foot wall syenite granite and some porphyry. A clay gorge lies along the foot- wall, sometimes against it and then again four to five inches away from it. The formation is perfect and if there is such a thing as a true fissure in mining, this vein is certainly one of them. The old Santa Rita Mining Company owned and prospected this lode un- der the name of the "Bustillo," and in their reports put it down as a "fine rich vein.'' * * * Mr. Ma- gee thinks thst the ore from LaPurissima " will give a higher assay than the Jefferson, for it certainly has a liner appearance." He adds that " he knows it is an excellent mine — a first class property of good average ore with a true fissure vein." J. Ross Browne des- cribed the lode on which La Purissima is located as quite rich, showing silver sulphuret and galena. Mr. AVrightson, superintendent of the Santa .Rita Mining Company, writing in 1859 of the ores on the Napoleon lode then known as the "Bustillo" says: — "The ores are suited to both smelting and amalgamation. The smelting ores are those in which there is a very large 346 PICTURKSQUE ARIZONA. admixture of lead, or very rich sulphurets of silver and copper. The amalgamation ores — those where the culls of silver and copper predominate. * * * * The Bushell and the Ojera mines yield ores which by assortment can be treated by both processes." Of the Hamilton lode, on which the the Forsyth mine is situ- ated, Professor Davis says in a report made May 1877, that he found thereon " four old shafts and workings from ten to twenty-two feet in depth ; height from tide water at upper shaft, 4,600 feet. This is an im- mense vein, or rather two veins exactly parallel and nearly contiguous. Are all of a higher grade; should judge would yield two hundred dollars per ton ; vein well defined, from eight to ten feet wide and growing wider as you go down — metal the whole width of the vein, and all of the works show the same." The Toltec Syndicate property thus admirably loca- ted is bonnd within a short time, under the energetic management of its owners and the vigorous direction of Col. Graham to become one of the very best in Southern Arizona. I have been thus particular in de- scribing it, because to the ability and energy of the gentlemen engaged therein, assisted by the recognized capacity for observation and statement of Col. K J. Hinton, whose journeys and descriptions of this region .are unquestioned for correctness of detail and pictur- esque vivacity, belong very much of the credit which is PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 347 due the influences tb at have so recently made the mineral wealth, climate, soil and romantic beauty of this region, a subject of interest to the whole country, and so brought about that present activity of labor, skill and capital which bids fair ere long to make the Santa Cruz Valley and the region of which it is the centre, one of the richest and most enterprising mining dis- tricts within the United States. Persons desirous of more especial information rela- tive to this section of country should address Col. John D. Graham at 302 Montgomery street, San Fran- cisco Cal, a gentleman who has done more to develop and bring to the front the resources of Southern Ari- zona than any other living man. The author of this volume was the guest of Col. Graham in a remarkable pleasant trip — from Yuma to the Santa Rita Moun- tains during last December and January, and it was during this trip that the excellent views contained in this volume were taken, being the first photographs ever taken of these historic and interesting localities. Knowing Col Graham and his associates in the enter- prise above spoken of we most heartily recommend all persons desirous of information relative to this subject to put themselves in communication with him, and we desire here to specially record our thanks for unlim- ited courtesies and very valuable aid and assistance during our memorable trip to Southern Arizona. 348 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. In dilating upon this region, it seems to me the rec- ollections of facts and hearsays flash upon me faster, and more prominently than usual, and than I can note. In referring to this section, the versatile write'-, J. Ross Browne, in describing Tubac which lies in the Santa Cruz Valley, says : " It lies on a pleasant slope in one of the most beautiful parts of the valley of the Santa Cruz, and that it overlooks two of the richest mining districts within the limits of the Territory." Again ; the New York Mining -Record, in referring to the same region, says : — " It is located in the heart of the extraordinary metalliferous region of the Santa Cruz River in Southwestern Arizona, where formerly the Jesuit priests, with the Spanish inhabitants and Indian neophytes mined with rich results though scarcely breaking ground, and having, as the many re- mains attest, but the rudest and most imperfect means of smelting or converting the ore into bullion. The fame of the ' Bollos de Plata ' (balls of silver) of Ari- zona in the beginning of the last century was such at the City of Mexico and finally in Spain, that a royal ordinance issued from Madrid, declared the district of Arizona to be royal property as a Criadero de Plata: that is to say, a place where silver was formed in the processes of nature. There is also in existence a royal paper of Philip V. of May 1741, charging among other PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 349 embezzlements of royal mineral property in Arizona that of a mass of virgin or pure silver weighing two thousand seven hundred pounds." CHAPTEE XXV. FROM CAMP APACHE, NORTHEAST— A LAND FULL OF INTEREST— A GREAT AGRICULTURAL AND MINERAL BELT COMBINED. FROM Camp Apache one hundred and twenty-five miles in a northeasterly direction, lies the pre- historic land of the Moqui and Zuni of which we have spoken. The immense tract of land enroute, promises to be one of great interest at the opening of this region in the near future to all classes of travelers — tourist, emigrant, historian, philologist. To the tourist, for the many rural phenomena which such a diversified country must naturally open up ; to the emigrant farmer, for its fertility of lands and well watered valleys ; and to the historian and philol- ogist, for the races of beings and their languages, which have but recently attracted the attention of the world. This latter class or features of attraction is in embryo. It has simply dawned, to inflame the spark of inquisi- tiveness in man for a further knowledge of himself, and his connection with the races of men ; and inspire PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 351 him with as healthy a desire for investigation as ever possessed the brain of a Darwin. For a distance of about seventy -five miles toward the Little Colorado which traverses Arizona in the northeast, there seems to be a country that will vie with any on the Pacific coast for attention from the farmer. It is along and through a series of valleys sloping from the many mountains of eastern Arizona and extending into New Mexico. These mountains extend in a north and southeasterly direction nearly the whole length of the State; and from my experience in the actual distance traveled, and from reports from pioneers and frontiersmen, I would conclude that the same favorable conditions characterized them through- out. Cooling streams and shady rills where many a lively plumed Indian spears his Dolly Varden trout, beneath an inviting cluster of foliage or a hanging wall of rock, makes up the panorama. The country is dotted here and there, with numerous small valleys which form a charming contrast to the "deserts" of the western portion of the Territory. In riding along these natu- ral garden spots, my mind was more than once taken back to the time when California herself was dead to the world, and when some were wont to discourage all her claims to merits and virtues, by a reference to the great deserts of the West. To our great trans-conti- 352 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. nental railroads it was said, " Oh ! jom can't make it pay to build such a road to the coast, even if the State is all you claim for it ; for look at the deserts you have to go through to get there. Good for nothing; worth nothing." The trouble to acquire, they thought, though the thing be good in itself, would not be worth the thing acquired. I claim that the valleys of just the San Francisco mountains, and those combined in the eastern third of the Territory would alone warrant the building of a railroad. It must come. And it will come shortly. Such articles as the one below, clipped from a periodical, seems to strengthen my as- sertions. "A band of one hundred and fifty men arrived here yesterday from Boston and took the first train by the Pennsylvania Central road on their way to Arizona. At the base of the San Francisco Mountains they intend to establish a colon}'. Each man takes provisions for ninety days, and his personal outfit of tools and clothing to a total prescribed weight of three hundred pounds, transportation for which and for himself to the end of the long journey is furnished by the Arizona Coloni- zation Company — a Boston concern — at a cost of $140 per man. At the end of the railroad the colonists are to be joined by the company's engineer, Mr. G. B. Maynadier, who went ahead about a week ago to pro- vide transportation from that point. Mr. Maynadier PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 353 was the chief engineer of Henry Meigg's Andes rail- road in Peru, and is said to be thoroughly acquainted with Arizona. " The part of the country in which the proposed settlement is to be made is said to be very rich in the precious metals and at the same time very advanta- geous for agriculturists. A company is forming in San Francisco with a capital of $10,000,000, to work located mining claims on the west side of the moun- tain to which these colonists are going. Within about thirty days at least, eighty more men with the families of some of those who have already gone will go from Boston to join this New England Colony, whose or- ganization was begun in August last by a company of which Judge O. W. Cozzens is President, J. M. Piper, Secretary, and S. C. Hunt, Treasurer." There is a gap between the western boundary of Kansas and the Colorado River, east and west and from the 41° of latitude down to the border of Mex- ico that the whole country should lend its aid to open up and bring before the people — not only of this coun- try, but of those where their subjects are more op- pressed. The land, in its very fatness, is gasping for an outlet, while the people are crying for an inlet. I have noticed that some of our greatest agricultural belts extend in an indirect line from northeast to south- west. Run from the middle of the State of Kansas, 354 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. across Iowa up into northern Illinois and Wisconsin and see this theory verified. Strike out from the Gulf of California at Guymas, run northeast through eastern Arizona and New Mexico, up through Colorado, and northeast to the Black Hills, and you have as com- plete a system of rich agricultural and mineral lands most harmoniously alternated together as exists within the country's domain. Give the people the railroads which rightly belong to them. CHAPTER XXYI. MY DEPARTURE FROM TUCSON— ADMONITIONS— THE JEHUS OF THE PLAIN— BEN HILL — MIND AND MATTER— A TALE OF LOVE AND WOE— ALL FOR GOLD— THE HIGHWAYMAN. IT was on the afternoon of the 22nd of December, '77 when I returned to the metropolis of Tucson on u the home stretch." I had left the camp of the Az- tec company the day before with Col. Graham, and was now waiting for the departure of the 2 o'clock stage for Yuma on my return. The objects of my trip had been accomplished, and my note book being replete with Arizona lore, the activity with which my mind reverted to home and friends was an amazing contrast to my four months travel over mountain and desert As I would close my eyes at dusk, visions of the home circle, of nephews and nieces crowding upon my knees with eyes sparkling with the fire of animation, eager to know of those " awful Indians 1 ' and those "great big" robbers "out there," would soften the sterner realities of life, and make the heart bow to the more 356 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. tender affections. ■ These contrasts, I say, were very forcible. In the mining camp on these occasions I evinced some restless anxiety; and through the cour- tesy and generosity of Col. Boyle and Col. Graham I was escorted to Tucson where I was to await the next stage for California. The afternoon came, and 2 o'clock P. M. saw me seated on the top of the stage coach beside the driver. There was only one other passenger — a soldier from one of the forts. The street had many spectators to our departure. Very few know, except those ac- quainted with such cases and scenes, of the interest attached to the arrival and departure of the overland stage in a frontier town. All ready, the mail and ex- press matter deposited, a crack of the whip, and we drove off. As we did so, admonitions came thick and fast, not to be scalped by the Apache nor taken alive by the highwayman. I had often had such admoni- tions given me before — in Mexico, and Central Amer- ica they are the common warning to every traveler — but at this time they came with a peculiar grating on my ear. However, I accounted for this by the strange desert dreariness I had imbibed on several occasions during my tour, and by the knowledge that our way lay in part through the Apache country. The start was a cheerful one. The next tiling in turn was to find out what kind PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 357 of a fellow my driver was, and to anticipate the asso- ciations of the night. It would be a thankless task for me, or any one, to attempt to explain how one should go to work to find out what the Jehus of our western frontier coaches are. They are as varied as the minds and tempers of men ; and one tiling I might here pertinently put for the guidance and safety of all travelers with these sturdy guides of the plains and mountains. Be care- ful how you set about to do it ; or else in trying to find them out, they will beat } t ou two to one, and fathom you deeper than your own knowledge runs. They are natural phrenologists or physiognomists. Nor how, nor where, they know not ; but, as one con- fidently said to me on one occasion, " We know a man as soon as we lay our eyes on 'im." 1 found my com- panion on this occasion, as a Jehu, an old and experi- enced one ; but as a man, in the very vigor of life. His acknowledged cool and resolute character in all cases of emergency, suggested in itself, a safe-guard, if not absolute protection, and I at once set about to get his consent to ride outside all night. " Now ! Hill," said I, (Hill, was the name of the driver) " Tell me what you know of this vast country, through which 3^ou have been traveling night and day, for years, as they tell me." We had ridden along some distance and had, from 358 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. the first, according to my recollections, and according to Hill's own words, found in each other congenial companions. " Tell us of some incidents or experiences of your life on the plains " continued I. The trip I was now entering out upon, being to take me away from my fields of labor and observation, my mind naturally threw off a certain load. It felt a re- lief from the sterner objects of my travels, and partici- pated more of the beaux esprit of a careless tourist. Sitting on the top of the coach, as it jogged along in the cool of the approaching evening, I could now see a beauty in the vast stretching prairie and desert, where before it had been an uninviting trackless waste. Mind had assumed a new relation to matter. I was verifying, it seemed, how the spirit matter made a ma- terial thing what it is. A tree is a tree, thought I, and yet what two entirely different things are, a willow which hangs over a mother's grave, and the willow that shades the happy angler, as he sits under its branches by some cooling stream in the joys of recrea- tion, playing with his cunning trout. Is there not as much difference between these two trees, as between incense and gall? "Well," said Hill, " I suppose you want to hear about scalping scenes, highway robberies, or some blood and thunder affair. I never met a 'traveler yet PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 359 who did not want something of this sort told to him. For my part, I've got tired telling 'em. But" ejacu- lated he, as if he had seized some happy thought, and then, almost as suddenly, dropped his chin on his breast and was silent for a moment. " Do you know " said he, finally, " what I have named this country? " " Give it up, Hill ! " said I. "Well," said he, looking at. me sagaciously, "I call it the country of disappointed lovers." " Disappointed lovers, " quoted I ; and then laughed heartily. " Why whatever put that in your head ? " "Yes, Sir! 'that's what's the matter.' Disappointed lovers ! Why ! every other man you meet here has some story of this kind to tell you." " I say Hill," said I, with an insinuating grin on my face, "and are you one of these ' every other '. men ? " Hill has not to this day, answered my questions. I am reminded here of an interview I hud with another of these frontiersmen, in the early part of my travels in this land, that somewhat borders upon this subject, and further exemplifies this theory of Mr. Hill's. We were riding out upon the plain and in re- ferring to the grotesqueness of the houses, the follow- ing comparisons took place: "You have noticed all through your travels, haven't you, my friend?" intervened Joseph (that was the name on the occasion) with an air of having started 360 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. with some terribly convincing evidence. " You have noticed how some of the old, broken down, dilapidated mud houses throughout this whole land have a sort of reviving spirit about them. They will have some vines nicely trimmed up against the side of the walls, or some tasty little curtain hung by one of the little holes they call windows in this country ; or a few streaks of paint daubed in some conspicuous place on the outside of the building, dashed on in some original style of art, something after the Indian fashion of painting." 11 Yes ! I have," I answered. " Well ! Do you know what they remind me of? They remind me of some of these old bachelor codgers — these cock-a-d oodles — who wanting in their old age, some congenial spirit (a wife, I mean), put on them- selves all the trimmings mortal man can conceive of — yellow neckties, kid gloves, have their hair cut twice a week and properly greased — or rather improperly so, as it would soil any silk dress it chanced to come in contact with ; who, with one hand in his pocket jingling his gold, and in the other, a bunch of roses, he seeks and marries a girl not yet out of her teens. A sweet sixteen as he would call her." "Well ! isn't that all right enough ? " I enquired. "Yes, of course it is," said my companion. "Of course it is, even if Cupid goes back on him; for PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 361 when a man has outlived what little sense and reason lie ever had, and has never been able to find a sensi- ble girl that would have him, I suppose it is all right enough for him to start out and allure some young and inexperienced girl, before she is old enough to know her own mind or realize the clangers of the step she is about to take." " But I don't see what bearing this has upon the houses, or the disappointed lovers," said I. "No! but some of these odd and ridiculously fes- tooned houses remind me of these ridiculously be- decked human structures. As for the disappointed lovers, why they are the ones that get out and come here; for if the young girl has some one that she likes, you know, why the old fellow tells her either that she is too young to have company as young as he is ; or else she must drop him, or chuck him over- board on some dark night, and that he has got money enough to heal her sorrows and hide crimes alike." Another case still had I pointed out to me which would seem to defend both of these gentlemen in their theories and surmises. I was shown in the extreme southern part of the Territory, a certain crude log hut, in which dwelt a man of some fifty years. We were passing through the canyon in which it was crested cosily on the borders of a clear mountain stream, and beneath the brow of picturesque hills. It was covered 362 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. with moss and creeping vines seeming jealous to pro- tect their inmate's happiness. The story of this old man, as told me by the driver of the coacli was, that while quite young, this "party" had under very pe- culiar circumstances and of necessity been placed in absolute charge of a young lady whom he thoroughly loved. As jealously and sturdily had he guarded and protected his charge, as he would his own life, or as only a person who honestly, nobly, and unselfishly loved, could have done. The girl was placed under the man's protection by her parents ; but a rich uncle, under whose charge the girl afterwards was put, be- came so morbidly jealous of the good character the young man was known to possess, forbade the girl from recognizing him at all. The girl had learned so thoroughly to look up to and respect her companion, that she nobly refused to obey her uncle's commands. Seeking to accomplish, his end, to his commands he afterwards added offers of large amounts of gold. Be- ing thus tormented by her uncle, the girl sought refuge with her parents, who had recognized the great services rendered by the young man, and from whom she ex- pected defense in favor of he who had been her chosen companion. But the parents being also swayed and influenced by the uncle's gold, and what they conceived to be their daughter's interest (short-sighted interest), the same dire case of " all for gold " was enacted over PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 363 again ; for the girl afterwards married against her will, and died a poor drunkard's broken-hearted wife. The man it is said became temporarily deranged, but finally retired to the land of the Apache, remarking, as it is said he often does, to this day, that the land of the savage is preferable to a society which buys and sells honest virtue with gold. Darkness finally overcame the land, and at six o'clock, we arrived at Desert station. This meant "supper." Supper taken, and horses changed, we mounted our box seat, and, tucking our robes about us (for the nights were getting just a little chilly) we were off again. We had tucked ourselves in as snugly as those children did for a " long winter's nap " on a famous Christmas eve, although we did not expect to nap much on this occasion. Darkness was well spread over the earth. The moon had not yet risen, but the stars shone forth in all their brilliancy ; and by the aid of the limpid atmosphere, lent an interesting vision to the unaccustomed scenes about us. Before us, behind us ; to the right of us, and to the left of us, stretched the boundless desert, sprinkled here and there with small clumps of grease wood and bunch grass, and boarded in the distance by a gray outline of the inter- minable mountains of Arizona. Not a sound was heard save the smothered tread of our animals in the sand — except our own voices, which would seem to 364 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. have a ring and re-echo in the dreary stillness. Never did my own voice attract my notice so much. As we looked into open space we would sometimes be inter- ested with the phenomenal light peculiar to Arizona, which would break the monotony of our long and tedious ride. On these occasions we would watch the slight flickering of light pass through the atmosphere. These wave-like effects were very slight and pale, re- sembling, somewhat, the "milky way," but seeming to be between you and the sky — not in the sky. They were often so pale that one might suppose it was some effect of the vision, passing, as they did, before you in a thin gauze or mist I defined it to be some effect of the heat of the desert upon the cooler atmosphere of the evening. Thus we rode along, not a leaf stirring and not a sound audible save the martial tread of our dumb beasts. What a contrast again, to our lively after- noon's conversation. The gentle jolt of the vehicle had cradled me into a dreamy mood. We had not spoken for some minutes, when suddenly: "Halt!" thundered upon our ears, accompanied with vocifer- ous oaths and calumnies. The echo had scarcely died away when, " Hold up your hands ! " " Throw down your arms ! " followed the imperative " Halt ! " in quick succession. All was done in less time than it takes to tell it. Our blood rushed to our faces. We PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 365 were over-awed by fright, and baffled by surprise. Like one aroused from his slumber, we were for a mo- ment lost to all senses, and did not know our beatings. In front of us stood two men — one with a rifle and the other witli a large revolver — levelled directly at us. The horses had undergone some emotion, and had now quieted in a tangled harness. We had no sooner realized our position than : " Hold up your hands ! " thundered forth with increased force. We now thoroughly comprehended our situation. We were in the hands of the highwayman — perhaps of the assassin. CHAPTER XXYII SPIRITS OF THE DESERT — THE AUTHOR ROBBED — PENNILESS — THE MEETING OF M'MILLEN AND FLOURNOY— THE PROVER- BIAL SYMPATHY OF THE PIONEER. WE have said the men were there. How they came there in the position we now beheld them we could not tell. Like spirits of the deep springing up from the bowels of the earth by some invisible trap- door, or dropped down from the heavens. They were simply there and that is all we knew — and enough. A very few moments elapsed between our seeing them and the commencement of the excitement which was to be the terror of our midnight ride. But in this moment a volume of horrible visions ran through my mind, the most terrible of which was that we were now in the hands of the highwaymen positively and se- curely, and barred out from all the world by a collosal wall of dreary mountains, upon a wide stretch of an arid, fruitless, uninviting desert. I sat on the left of the driver. To the left of the horses' heads and facing us, stood a goodly specimen PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 369 of physical man with a large revolver levelled at our heads. It was about the size, I should judge, of those used by the "Horse Marines." To the left of the stage, on a range with me, was another " six-footer " w T ith a hat, which, had it been mid-day, I would sup- pose was used to keep the sun off him, spreading out on all sides, and slouched down over his face. He held in his hands, and levelled at my breast a rifle. In the next moment, what a volume, what a life of thought intervened! In the very stillness of the des- ert there was noise; your very soul talked aloud to you ; and as for spirits — why, the whole world seemed to be composed Of them. And then, breaking the silence, came the demand for " your money, or your life ! " and the voices of these men seemed to echo from mountain to mountain. I was ordered to get down from the coach and stand before them ; while the soldier inside was ordered "to the front" to hold the horses' heads. Being a soldier, and one of his es- sential duties being to '• obey ! " he was constrained, in his good judgment, to do so. Nobly did he per- form his duty in this instance. Now, I had never been a soldier ; yet, I obeyed orders in this case quite as well as he did. However, it was perhaps the stern force of " duty " that actuated him to obey, whereas mine was by force of persuasion. A rifle at your head and a six-shooter at your breast are terrible per- 370 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. suaders. I was thwarted, however, in my willingness to obey, by the "tucking in" that was done when leaving Desert station ; and when I came to unloose myself from under the lap robe, it was obstinate, and- I remembered that the buckle of the strap which held the robe to the seat was broken and I had tied the ends together strongly and securely. This called forth execrations from the robbers. "Why the d 1 don't you get down off that coach ? " " Gentlemen, said I, (which of course cut the grain acutely, but I swallowed it, and repeated) " Gentle- men, don't shoot! and if you will allow me I will explain " "Hold up your hands!" interrupted one, with which command both Hill and I readily complied. And when once in this position again, I was instructed to explain " what the d 1 " I was doing. And inquired of whether I had "any arms "at my side. Upon answering in the negative, I was allowed to pro- ceed, and after extricating myself was ordered to "get down off of there." Of course I complied. Once down, the following dialogue ensued : Highwayman — "Who are you? What's your name?" . PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 371 Having told him, and after a silence of a moment, lie replied : " Well ! I'll take jour money, and be quick about it or I'll blow your brains out." I complied again ; and at this instant, and while turning my possessions over to them, a "click" from the " Horse-Marine " pistol broke the silence of the desert. Bat fortunately it broke nothing else. It was either "miss-fire" or trie thing was done for effect — which, I am unable to say. At each interval the si- lence seemed to increase. Oar positions were now as follows : — The soldier at the horses' heads to prevent them from running ; the driver standing up on the coach, and I on the sandy ground at the left side of the coach. Still further to my left stood one of my molesters with his rifle ; and in such a range that by simply elevating or lowering his piece either the driver or myself could be cleared of all responsibility in this life without it costing us one cent. In front of me and up at the side of the horses' heads where stood our soldier, was our other facetious friend, with his six-shooter still pointed at my breast. We had all been ordered to put our hands above our heads ; and there we were, as if practising calisthenics, and waiting for further drill. This is the common mode of the highwayman on our frontier, of securing your submission. With hands up, }^ou can of course 372 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. make no resistance; and if you take them down, nine to one, you will at the same instant be pierced with a bullet. No wiping of noses now, nor drying tears. The first order given to the driver was to "Pass down Wells, Fargo k Co.'s express box!'' The driver stooped, picked the box from beneath the seat, and threw it from the coach. It landed with all its treas- ures, upon the sand directly in front of me with a heavy thump, which made my frame shudder and my veins contract like a headless chicken in its last death struggle. Each hair on my head was a porcupine quill. The next order was for the " United States mail sacks." These the driver also tossed upon the ground. There were three in number. They then or- dered put some pouches of quicksilver, which were in the bottom of the stage; which demand the driver also complied with. This over, and fearing their booty would not reach their desires, they made a slight change of venue, and placing me in front of the treasure heap, demanded to know again who I was, and all about me. Having told them, there was a reign of silence — a terrible reign of about thirty seconds. Imaginations concerning this silence ran through my mind as rapidly as the reflections and thoughts of a drowning man is supposed to crowd themselves upon him; and as rapidly did I come to the conclusion that it must be they were disappointed in their man. They PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 3*73 liad expected some one else on this stage in my place. They then made a second demand, however, for all my papers, and any other "matters" I had about me, all of which I cheerfully relinquished. Had they known I was but a poor newspaper man, and, as they soon found out, all they were to get for their trouble was fifteen dollars, it seems to me they might have saved a good deal of valuable time and — " let me alone." It was worth the amount, however, to get an excuse to take down my arms, which all this time had been held above my head in an upright position. This was an uncomfortable one, to say the least ; and all the more so, as I stretched them high and straight to evince to these " spirits of the desert," my disposition to obey orders. Having secured my money, and evi- dently taking it for granted that the driver and the soldier had none (or being now satisfied with what they had obtained) we were told to resume our places on the coach. Having done so, the fire-arms being kept steadily upon us the while, we were ordered to drive off; and as we did so, the two men cried out alter- nately, "Good-night!" "Good-night!" I have been aroused by sudden changes ; I have enjoyed the ecstatic effect of contrast; but never had any experience so forcibly struck upon such opposite sentiments in my nature as the contrast between these soft salutations %l Good night ! " " Good night ! " and the 374 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. terrible " halt" only a few minutes before. The form- er transactions were accompanied with sonorous tones of the deepest gutteral effort, and re-echoing as we fan- cied, in the distant mountains around. The latter tones were uttered in the gentlest simplicity and even savored of mellowness. It had such a pleasing and soothing effect upon us as to almost put us off our guard ; and made me feel like turning around and say- ing : "Oh! you. won't hurt us, will you?" I inti- mated to Hill, that if we should ask them now to give the things back, the}^ would probably do so. I say this was the effect their " good night " produced upon me. But a moment's reflecting and a slight remons- trance from Hill, convinced me that I was permitting my better judgment to be swaj^ed by their blandness, and apparent civility. A little consideration brought me to my senses and I was amazed at my own credu- lity, as the result of their words. This whole affair was performed so quickly — began and ended so suddenly — was such a succession of sur- prises, that it was not until after all was over and we had resumed our journey that we thoroughly realized that anything had actually occurred. Now was the "winter of our discontent." As the horses began to trot off at a faster pace, Hill and I began to shake in our seats. We repeatedly looked around and won- dered if they were coming after us. How often did PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 375 we inquire of each other if we saw " anything of them?" We suffered more in the following few miles from an anticipation of a renewal of the attack than we did from the whole genuine affair. There was something so weird in our ride now. Every bush we approached ; every cactus we saw, seemed to be possessed with life. When we stopped talking, the stillness increased. It increased until it actually became noisy ; for the spir- itual man then kept up a clatter with the mortal man, and talked to us of things we never knew (or those that we had once known but wanted to forget), and in some respects annoyed us with its clatter. If one wants to get an idea of what a perfect quiet is, it seems to me he must go to Arizona to do it. These deserts, with nothing inviting, devoid of any noisy insects, or creatures whatever (except the coyote whose occasional distant whine or howl only contrasts with the stillness to make it greater), are suggestive places for intense — for penetrative meditation. " Well ! Now then ! " said Hill shortly afterward, as he spurred up his horses, " now you've had it. Now you've had your robber story better than I could have told you one, and I hope you're satisfied." I did feel quite satisfied, and I wanted to know of Hill, whether this was the kind of sociable (?) Arizona tendered to strangers. " Sociable ! " quoted Hill. " That's pretty good.'' 376 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. "Yes!" rejoined I, "They are what I would term midnight sociables of the deserts." Thus we rode along leaving, these " spirits of the desert," we hoped, far behind. It was about 7 o'clock in the evening when our robbery took place. It was just before the time for the moon to rise, and the at- mosphere wore that peculiar haze suggested by the old proverb " Tis darkest just before dawn." Hill, who was an old pioneer in the stage business of our west, had many experiences (either personal or otherwise), to relate of the highways and the red man. I had one myself, having suffered a like engagement once before. Between us both, we consequently lis- tened to man}^ hair-breadth escapes and midnight rev- elries. We must have been intuitively prepared for this one from the systematic manner in which we went through the drill. At the very instant of the word "Halt!" and before we had been ordered to " Hold up your hands ! " which is alwaj^s the next com- mand, my hands went up high over my head. Misery liking company, I looked to my right with one eye to see how it fared with my brother Hill ; while the other I kept on my desert friends. Hill had his hands up too. In short we wanted to get through with the midnight drama as quickly as possible. I remember how anxious I was to get back on my box after I had been robbed. But being commanded to "Halt! " with PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 377 at the same time, a click from tlie six-shooter, I al- layed my impetuosity somewhat, and seemed to feel willing to stand there all night rather than attempt to get back to my seat again until I had been ordered to do so. I was encouraged all the way through by Hill's calm and politic manner in dealing with the case at hand. This little narrative will give a general idea of the robberies of the overland stage coaches on our western highways. Of course, depredations are governed by no law, and these "sociables of the desert" are gov- erned by no set or established routine. They take you how and where they find you and are governed in their actions accordingly. Matiy variations there are then, to this system of aggression, although this is the average modus operandi. In a former robbery of a coach upon which I was a passenger, the coach was simply stopped by two men running out from behind a bush ; and one grabbing the horses' heads, while the other stepped to the side of the coach and ordered the driver to " hand down Wells, Fargo & Co.'s express box." The driver having complied with the request, he was told to drive on, which he did ; and the stage and its load drove off, and on to its destination as though nothing had happened — except that when we arrived there the box containing all the treasures was not with us. There is shooting at times, and often 378 PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. loss of life, but this is generally the result of disobe- dience to their commands or wishes; and if ever the reader has an occasion to fall into the hands of these " spirits of the desert," we would advise him to simply accept the situation with a calm and quiet grace, and obey as you had been taught to do in your youth. In nine times out of ten, 3^011 will come out of the battle unscathed; although it is admitted that there are men bloodthirsty enough to love to kill for the glory of it, and without any provocation. Some, there are, who may not understand why in- sistence is not the better part of valor, and not oftener resorted to in these instances, on the part of the stage companies or the passengers. We simply say to those, that to attempt to explain, would be a thankless task, as they would only look at you as one trying to ex- cuse your own cowardice, and vaunt their own bravery at you, by asserting what they would do if they were " caught that way." Many have I had talk with me in this way while attempting to satisfy their curiosity as to the situation in such cases, and the conditions governing it. But when they are " caught" them- selves, they are agravated to find, in turn, that a no better portrayal of the situation can be found in them. The safest plan is, never to carry but a mere paltry sum of money — enough to pay your way from point to point, where you can replenish. PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. 379 We reached Florence at 4 o'clock in the morning. It was on this occasion that I met the great prospec- tors, Capt. Chas. McMillen and Josiah Flournoj. As we were about to leave Florence, two men approached the stage and took passage on it for Yuma. Their dress consisted of a pair of overalls, sand shoes, a huge blanket strapped across their back, a pair of large six- shooters — one at each hip ; a bowie knife in their belt behind, a rifle strapped across their back, and a big slouched hat ornamented with holes, which covered the whole structure from rain. They greeted me in true frontier style wanting to know if I was the man who had been robbed out on the desert — whether I was hurt any, and whether I had any money left. When I had answered their questions, and informed them that all my money had been taken, each put his hand in his pocket, and passed carelessly over to me a twenty dollar gold piece, telling me they guessed that would see me through to Yuma, and that the twenty dollars would be as good to them at some other time. When I offered to give them " my note," they looked displeasure that human nature had fallen so low, that a piece of paper was worth more than a man's honor, and said: "a man's word is his note in this country, my friend." I subsequently learned that these two men were McMillen and Floumoy, and were then on their way JiSO PICTURESQUE ARIZONA. to San Francisco and New York to incorporate the "Hannibal'' mine, then recently discovered. * * * A ride of three days and nights in the overland stage coach brought me back to Yurnn. In passing Los Angeles on my way north to San Francisco, I was reminded of the attraction the orange groves of that district had held for me, and of the famous beach at Santa Monica, only fifteen miles to the sea side. I left the main road here and ran down to Santa Monica. Here, after a refreshing sojourn at the Santa Monica Hotel, and a few invigorating surf baths in the Pacific Ocean in the dead of winter, I diversified my trip by taking one of the magnificent steamers of the coast, for San Francisco. THE END.