Mmml Fourth Edition ELMER D. SMITH & CO ADRIAN, MICHIGAN Price 60 Cents ? Smith's Chrysanthemum Manual FOURTH EDITION Many of the Important L'liaiiter.s Have Been Revised and Enlal•^'ed, <4iving More Complete Details, with Additional lUnstn.tions. Tlie Work Is Prat-tieal, Not Only to Florists, Who Have Every Facility, lint to the Amatenr. FULLY I LLUSTllATED ELMER D. SMITH Who Has liance with these demands. It is my desire to concisely set forth in these pages all details per- taining to Chrysanthemum culture, beginning with stock plants, treating the many branches, through each stage of development, ni" to and includ- ing the staging of plants and cut blooms. Most of the works upon this subject have l>een confined to methods practical only to florists, having every facility necessary to successful culture. The amateur, growing a few idants for pleasure and eager for better results, has Ijeen entirely overlooked. It is hoped this booklet will meet the requirements of all. There is no plant which responds more freely to careful attention than the Chrysanthenunu. The whole secret of success lies in prompt attention to details, and when these are thoroughly understood and exe- cuted, we may expect a generous reward. The celerity with which the first three editions sold has prompted my issuing this Fourth Edition. I trust that my efforts will be assistance to muny. ELMER D. SMITH, Member of the Chriisanthemum Society of America The National Chriisanthemum Society of England, and Societii Francaise des Chnisanthonisfes. Smith's Chrysanthemum Manual CHAPTER I. The deriviation of the word Chrysantheinniii is from the Greek words Chrysos, sold — and Aiitheiuoin, a flower. It is not easy to say how long the Chrysantiiennnn has been known to mankind, but midoubtedly over 2,000 years have ehi])sed since it was first known in tlie Celestial Eminre. In Japan its enltivation <-an be traced back over TOO years. Breynius, iu 1089, was the first Enroi)ean to mention the Chrysanthemum under the name of Matricaria .Jajionica Maxima. M. Pierre Louis Blancard intro- duced the lirst larse tlowering varieties into England in 17S0, and the following year they were Howered and named. ]\Ir. John Salter was one of the earliest English hybridizers, and produced many wonderful varieties from 1S3.S to 1S4S. As near as can lie ascertained, they were introduced into Aiiierit-a about the year 1S47: Dr. II. P. Walcott is credited as being the first per- son in this country to raise new varieties from seed, which he did as early as 1879. The work of hyliridization was taken n]i by Wm. K. Harris and JOiin Thorpe early in the SO's. Their efforts were crowned with great snc infei-ior to those then in commerce. This condi- tion caused many to be skeptical, doubting the merits of tlie so-called novelties, until fully tested. In the meantime, John Thorpe had conceived the idea of organizing a .society to protect the interests and also promote the developiuent of this tlower which was fast gaining popularity. In 1890, at Buffalo, the organi- zation now known as the Chrysantheunun Society of America was es- tablished. In 1894 this Society apjiointed connnittees composed of ex- jierts to meet during the following season at Chicago, Cincinnati, Phila- delfthia. New Yoi'k and Boston, to inspect seedlings and sjxjrts. These 2 SMITH'S CHRVSANTHEMUM MANUAL. couiuiittee.s have been continued fi-oni year to year, awarding lirst-i-lass certiflc-ates to tlie deserving ones. Such action hrouglit the varieties certificated into prominence, and tliose wliich failed to meet tlieir commendation were so little sought after as to he uniirofltahle, and many discontinued hybridizing. The first e.xhibition given by the C. S. A. was in Xdvember, i;)(V2, under the auspices of the Ilortiiultural Society of Chicago. 8ince then they have been held annually in the lai'ge cities both East and \Ve>;t. CHAPTER II. STOCK PLANTS. At the close of the flowering season the old plants must be saved for -stock, from which to i)ropagate young plants for another j-ear's use. Each grower should decide how many will he required and provide the most suitable situation for their maintenance. The amateur will need only two or three of a kind, while the com- mercial florist may need several thousand of the most i)opular sorts to meet his demand. Some varieties ai'e more susceptible of being increased than others, making cuttings abundantly and rooting fi-eely. Those who propagate for their own use only, should keep the plants in a low temperature, just above freezing, and even a few degrees ot frost will not materially injure them. They thrive best when kept on the dry side during the dark days of winter, at which time they are rather In- active. The florist who requires quantities for early distribution will be obliged to give higher temperature, about .jO degrees; and their needs for water should be carefully considered, a\oiding, if possible, too abund- ant and frequent use, as such a course tends lo weaken tiie plants, thus giving sickly cuttings. Another plan adopted by many private gardeners and tho.se requiring only a limited number of plants, is to root sufficient cuttings in November and dispense with the old stock plants. Early Propaffation — Stock plants for early propagation are gener- ally planted on greenhouse benclies, producing successive crops of cut- tings. With the new and scarce sorts it is sometimes advisable to take cuttings even as early as September or October, and. as soon as rooted, these are planted in shallow boxes or upon the bench. When large enough, the tops are taken off as cuttings. This induces the plants to make new breaks, which are used for cuttings when of suitable size. Cold Frames — The cold frame system is the most practical for those who do not have greenhouses, and the wholesale florist who needs large quantities of plants for June and July delivery will find them equally serviceable. In the construction of cold frames, there is no objection to excavating one or two feet, provided ample drainage can be secured; otherwise it is best to make board frames and plant stock on the level or slightly ele- vated so that no surplus moisture will remain about the roots. Stock thus stored should be protected by covering the frames with boards. To pre- vent continual freezing and thawing, these frames must be covered with coarse manure or litter. Most varieties are not injured by freezing, pro- vided they are kept in this condition until spring. Field Groini — Field grown stock is in every way more satisfactory 4 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL tliiiu that wliifli lias iirodm-ed blooms under glass. Tliey appear to pos- sess more vigor and give successive crops with greater rapidity. These i«:ay he handled in cold frames, as previously mentioned, or removed to greenhouse when early jn-opagation is necessary. Iiiijxirtcd Stock — Those imiiorting foreign varieties often find them in very ]ioor condition when vnii»acked. This is not to lie wondered af when we consi< small a pot as will acconnnodate the roots. It should be the aim to induce mot gi'owth as soon as possible and, to do this, plunge tliem into a close t on tlie dry side, and use water rather sjiaringly until they begin to gi'ow freely. They should be looked to sevei'al times each e lost if .allowed to remain until the old plant h.ad gained vigor. \()r(lli(s ini'l Scarrr Soii.s — Novelties and scarce soits .are often bought in limited ([uantity to iirojiagate from. The best results are obtain- ed by iil;inting these yoinig jilants into Hats (shallow boxes I, or upon the bench in slmllow soil. .Vs soon as they show signs of gi'owth, the tojis ;ire 1.dle the atmospheric temperature should not exceed 5r> degrees, with a bottom heat of 10 degrees higher. The Chrysanthemum is so susceptible of being rooted that no fast rule can be given. They may be struck in a temperature as low as 40 and as high as SO degrees, but if the former is adopted they root very slowly, niany varieties become hardened and thus the object is defeated. On tlie ether hand, if too high temperature is used, cutting bench fungus is liable to set in and ruin the crop. SluKliiuj — As the season advances and tlie outdoor temperature rises, it is impossible to maintain 55 degrees, and the soft cuttings are very mucli inclined to flag or wilt. For this purpose we use a light wrai)ping paper, in rolls 80 inches wide, which is given a coat of linseed oil and tlien tacked to the sash bars of the house. This shading being senu-trans- pareut, gives satisfactory results tln'oughout the propagating .season. In case of an excessive bright and hot spell, whitewash or any other good shading material should be applied to the out.side of the glass. Let the condition of cuttings be index for shading, but use every precaution necessary to prevent wilting, exclude light by covering and dampen the walks to lower the temperature. Watrritip — It is very important that cuttings should never get dry, tor under such conditions the end inserted in the sand becomes brown and hardened and will not take up water in sufficient quantity to revive the foliage, and thus becomes worthless. Many of the wholesale florists pro- pagate Chrysanthemums the year round, although tlie bulk are struck from iMarch to Jul v. TROPAGATION T Another metliod lavijely employed in California and other snb-troi)i- cal states, is to use cotton cloth as a covering for the propagating house or frame. This excludes part of the light and prevents the wind from drying them out. The cutting beds are iisually made upon the ground,, using sand as a material to hold moisture and sustain them until they make roots. Large quantities of cuttings are successfully handled in tlils way along the Pacitic Coast. Saucer Syston — Those who wish to propagate a few plants and are not favored with the facilities of the greenhouse, may use shallow boxes or any dish that will hold a few inches of sand. A dozen or more cuttings liiay be inserted at a time by adopting the "Saucer System"' given by Peter Henderson in his work, "Practical Floral Culture," which is as fol- lows : "It is called the Saucer System because saucers or plates are used to hold the sand in which the cuttings are placed. The sand is put in to a depth of an inch or so and the cuttings are inserted in it close en.ough 1o touch each other. The sand is then watered until it becomes the condi- tion of mud. and placed on the windodw sill fully exposed 1o the sun. I'.nt one condition is essential to success, until the cuttings Itecome rooted tlio sand must be continually saturated and kept in the condition of nuid : if once allowed to dry up the whole operation \^'ill be defeated." Eiiglish Method — The English method may also be of service to the amateur and is as follows: Insert three or four cuttings around the edge of a four-inch pot that has been previously filled with light soil, ((in- sisting of loam, sand and leaf mould, equal parts. These are pbu ed into a close frame and given same attention as suggested for Imported Stock, Divisions — In localities where tlie plants remain out-of-doors over winter without injury, they can be increased by removing the sprouts or stools that have sprung up from the base of the old plant. As these stools come into active growth, roots are formed near the surface of the soil, and may then be removed and rt'iilanted or jiotted as desireil. Often such pieces are ditlicult to pot owing to the long, crool^ed stems. These are removed, leaving a few roots to establish the young plant. New varieties- are generally produced by seeds, which are fully treated in Chapter XII. Pottinri — Cuttings should not remain in tiie bench alter tlie roots are half an inch hing, as they are potted easier, making better plants in every way than when allowed to remain until the roots are further develope.l. The soil should not be di-y, lint moist eiKuigli to remain intact \\iier. squeezed in the hand, and, on the other hand, not l»e muddy. Cuttings are usually potted in small pots, the two-inch size being an.iple. Put suf- ficient soil in the bottom of the pot so that the base of the cutting will be about 74 of an inch lielow the surface, hold cutting in center of pot with one hand and fill in with the other. Firm the soil, with thumb ov fingers, enough to keep the cutting upright, and be sure to lea\e sutiicient space for water, which should be applied liberally without delay. Putting the cuttings in flats (shallow boxes), instead of potting, has long been in vogue, and is a good course to pursue, insuring good stock at planting time with less labor involved. See Fig. S. cii.\I'Ti:r /r. SPECIMKX PI.AXTi- Cuttinss lu.'iy be taken any time from JuHuary l-'tli to iMai'fli ir)lli, l)iit tliose struck in February i,nve best results. As soon as rooted they are potted In 2-iii. pots, nsin.ir light soil, and nhiced in a cool, airy house and as near the glass as possible. It' given proper attention, such [ilants will STOCK ta.'owx nv kla!' system. niaUe large si>eciuiens from three to six feet high, and nearly as wide, by flowering time. In the course of a week or ten days flie roots will push to tht- side of the pot and will need slutting into the next larger size. Soil — There are many ideas as to what soil is best suited for Chrys- imtheunnns. Kadi exiK-iM lias a way of his own in jirepariug tlie soil, but as e(pially good results have been obtained inider varied conditions, it is safe t<> conclude tliat the comjiost eni|>loyed has little to do with re- sults, provided it contains sufficient food to noiulsh the i>lant and the cul- tivator is ;i ch>se o]iser\er, considering the louditinns under which they are grown. AH <-oncede tliat fresh cut sod piled late the preceding fall with one- fourth of its bulk of decomposed manure, makes an excellent compost. I'cpotfinn — Turn out the plants, take tiiein with the left hand and place in the new pot (winch is uencnilly an inch lai'ger than the one from which they were removed) so that tlie ball is a half an inch below the rim *Thi.s chapter is !art;ely wiitinu.s which have appeared in the Ameri- can Fldii.st and are from T. D. Hatfield, Wellesley. Ma.-!S., who has been ■eminently siK-fe.ssful in thi.s important branch of chrysanthemum culture. SPECIMEN PLANTS 9 of the pot and the phmt staiuls in the center. While held in this position fill in sufficient soil and firm s^ently with a stick around the pot, initil it is filled level with the oriijinal ball of earth. If the soil is retentive and rather wet, the ramming process can he carried to extremes, but if of a light nature, it should be made rather firm, and \\ hen tlie final potting is done, it can scarcely be carried to excess. StoppiiKj — The term "stopping"" means pinching out the center of a slioot, and the object is to force the plant to make several growths instead of the present one. When the plants are establislied in fonr-incli pots, liiey nre generally from four to six inches high, and at this stage tlie iiinching and stopping begins. This should be done a few days Itefore repotring or deferred until after the plants have made roots info the new soil. This induces tlie plant to make several side shoots, and as soon as tliese have attained four or five inches in length they are again stopped. This work is rei)eated throughout the season up to August 10th. Some of the varieties may bo .stopped a trifle later, but each cultivator nmst know the flowering time of those under his care. The early varieties set bud earlier, and it may he Avise to discontinue stopping sosne of these as early as August 1st. I>y April 1st to l."5th the plants should be in full vigor and ready to shift into six-inch pols; with this potting use a richer soil by adding to the ordinary compost a dusting of wood ashes, and a little pulverized sheeji manure. The latter shoiild be used in very small in-oportions. l>r(iin(i(/r — Free drainage is essential and we would reconnncnd char- coal to be used for such varieties as are liable to burn. Coal ashes are also a good material fm* this purpose and ma.A' l»e used as advantageously as broken crocks. Pot firmly when the soil is light, and loosely when the soil is heavy. At this stage the ])lants are carefully observed, tlieir manner of growth noted, also tendency to I)reak, and liability to disease. The good as well as the had points are almost certain to appear during April, and only such as promise well are shifted up to the largest sizes. Some of the varieties haA'e the habit of setting i)remature bud;; at this stage of growth. Such conditions are unfavorable to Ihe production of fine specimens, although the greater majority will outgrow this defect after the bloonnng ]>eriod has ])assed. From 1st to 1."tb of May another shift will i»e necessary and this time into seven or eight-inch pots, according to the varieties. The weaker growing should be put into the smaller size, and the stronger ones into the largest. As the plants at this season I)egin to assume soine size, and owing to the higher temperature which prevails, the watering will need constant attention. In repotting at this time, the plants should be set low enough in the pot to allow ample space for water, not less thai; an inch, but better an inch and a half, to hold sufficient water to saturate all parts of the soil. Final Pottiu;/ — The final potting occurs from June 1st to b'lth: for this give a richer compost, using a rather rough open soil containing a large portion of broken, half-decomposed sods. This must be packed 10 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL more linuly in the ]iots. A t-lose, heavy loam is had, hut if it must he- used, it should he only lightly firmed; sufficient sharp sand may he used to keep the water passing out freely. Wotcriii!/ — All experts agree that the plants should never suffer for want of water, and c-onsider it one of the most important details in all stages of development. On the other hand, it is very important that the- drainage be ample, so th.at the water passes through freely, thus ])re- venting stagnation, a condition conducive to disease, which will finally re- sult in failure. It sometimes occurs that the exact condition of plants in pots is not fully indicated hy the appearance of the soil. A very accurate course to follow is to rap tlie jiots with the knuckles or a stick; those that are wet liave a dull sound, those that are dry a hollow sound. A few days' trial Viill teach the o|)erator to detect the difference iu sound in an instant. SfaJiing — During August many of the plants will have attained con- sidcral>]e height, even though they have heen stopped every few days. 'J'hose which are inclined to snake too dense growth should he provided with a few stakes and the branches gradually tied out to the desired form, rh'.is making a foundation to Iiuild ujion later. These stakes will need to be I'emoved later on, and rejilaced liy larger ones, when it is determined how tall the plants are likely to grow. Early in September it will be necessary to consider the final staking and tying out. The main object in specimen plants is to develop as many growing shoots as possible before the middle of August, arranging them so as to keep the jilants even and regular in f(n-m. How this is to be done is somewhat a matter of taste, but it is easier to do it all at once, as more shapely plants can be formeil. If the plants are desired for ex- liiliition purjioses ami to iie transported some distance to the exhiViition iiall, the stake system is preferable to that of the wire frame, the advant- age lieing that iilants tied to stakes can be drawn together so there will be no friction, and at the same time occupy much less space. The liest course to follow in the matter of staking and tying largely tiepends upon tlie size and form to which tliey are to be trained. The Japanese growei-s shape their plants into many artistic designs, such as crosses, fans, boats, parasols, etc. When such forms are to be perfected, it is necessary to niiikc a temiiorary frame-work of wire or stakes to which the shoots may be tieosition. The best material for trying is silkaline. which does not slip; being soft, does not in.iure the shoots, and as its color is green, is nor so con- spicuous as where white string is used. SPECIMEN PLANTS 11 Tying out should not be left too long : in fact, it should he done every few daj's. There are always some overgrown, vigorous shot)ts which are difficult to accommodate, but while supple they will bend easily. A bad hole or open space can sometimes be filled by these strong growths, bending them down and tying securely. When specimen plants are grown for conservatory decoration, or where they can be practically transported to the exhibition hall, the wire frames may be used. When wire fi-anies are used, tie as many shoots as possible to the lower part of the frame, as the greatest danger is congestion at Hie top. DishiuJding — The oiieration of disbudding will need attention early in Septoml)er. the early varieties setting buds first and tlie later ones fol- lowing, according to the natural flowering time. For early exhudtions. say the 1st of November, buds should be prominent l)y September 1.", and showing color four weeks later. At least three weeks are replying once a week at first and twice or three times a week later. Sulphate of am- monium and nitrate of soda are sometimes used with wonderful results, but must be applied with discretion. From the time the bnds are set. success dejiends verv nmch nixm the .judicious nse of fertilizei-s. either in liqiiid form or a to]i dressing. Some plants Mill take ]i<|uid manvu'e in liberal amounts: others, if so treated, are easily in.iured. Over-feeding sliows itself in yellou. stunted foliage. Wlien this occurs, use clear water and let them get as dry as tiie.v can with safety. The grower needs to be acquaintetl with the i>laiits as wirli individuals: it is a matter of experience and, when carefully dont', may be continued 12 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL, V. c > rA) 1 W '_J w " f^ * M •^, O ^ a Sl'EClMEX I'l.AXTS 13 until the buds sbow color. It is, however, worthy to note that piuU and red varieties, including bronze, show lack of color and also burn easily if feeding is continued too long. Clay's fertilizer is a good manure and perfectly safe to use either as a liquid or top dressing mixed with a little loam. Soot water at times and weak lime water will sweeten the soil. The drainage must, however, be kept free, and this is sometimes difli- cult at the end of the season, when the pots are filled with roots. Punch- ing holes through the ball to the drainage will generally relieve water- logged plants. CHAPTER V MIS< ELI.A^EOL'S PLANTS StaniJards — 'I'lip ciiltiiral (liie<-tions given for specimen plants will be suitable for tliis imrjiose. 1'lie greatest difference being the training al- lowing them to grow without stO]iping until they have attained the desired height. Standai'ds are generally about five feet to the lower branches, although there is no fixed rule on this subject, and they may be grown any height, from three feet, (which are termed hair- standards,) to the height mentioned above. It is necessary the cuttings be liropagated early. When needed, provide with one strong stake for each idant, to which it is tied to keep the stem straight. As soon as they reach the desired height pinch out the center. The sevei'al Itreaks which follow form the foundation for top or Ijcad of the standard. These are nip- ped every few days the same as' specimen jilants. The training will require some care and attention as well as disbudding, feeding and other details. For Mtirlrt — Dwarf lUants of symmetrical form, with foliage down to the pots, are the most salalile, and when thus grown require constjint attention as to watering and stopping, allowing each jdant plenty of nrom to keep the lower leaves in a healthy condition. Cuttings taken June 1st and grown on, either in pots, iilanted on old carnation benches, or in sjtent hot -beds (light soil preferable) and lifted by August l.lth will make very nice plants 1% to 2 feet high. The reason for lifting early is to have them well established in their flowering pots liefore the buds are formed. Another system is sometimes employed which gives very dwarf s.vm- metrical plants and often utilizes considerable stock that would otherwise be worthless. Cuttings that were struck late in June and potted in two- inch jiots may l)e put several together in one pot about August 1st, jiro- \ided they are in thrifty condition. Three plants to a five-inch pot and .M.\i:.KKT I'l.ANT MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS 15 five or six to a seven-incli and so on. By sorting and placing tlie taller in the center and shorter at the edge, very symmetrical plants may be had. Disbudding and feeding will need attention to assure best results. Single Stemmed — The same culture as given for market plants will suffice for this class, except they are generally grown in pots and restrict- ed to one stem and flower. Those from one to two feet in height are more effective and useful than taller ones ; for this reason many prefer plung- ing out-of-doors where they will have full benefit of the sun and air, i.iaking them more dwarf than when grown under glass. Cuttings rooted early in June are best for tliis purpose. They must be repotted, staked and tied as their needs demand. In July the final potting takes place and the soil should be made very firm to secure short- jointed growtli. Miniature — There has not been much attention given to this class in tjiis country, although cultural directions are given in many of the old Dnglisli works. The best time to take cuttings is from the first to the last of August, according to the earliness of the variety. They are taken at the period when the buds are -just beginning to form and if delayed until very far advanced, the wood becomes hardened and will not root freely. These <.'uttings should be potted iunnediately into light soil and placed in a close frame which has been made the same as a hotbed with fresh manure to give forth a gentle bottom heat. In selecting cuttings take strong shoots from plants in the open boi"der or those grown under glass, and if the selection is made from those which naturally do not grow high, so much the better. A 3 to '■aV^ inch pot is large enough for this purpose. After the cuttings have been I>lunged therein they must be covered with a sash and shaded to keep out the strong liglit. It is also advisable to spray them over two or three times a day which will maintain the most genial condition for root for- mation. As soon as rooted (which may be ascertained by turning them out) air should be given the frame, a little at first and increasing eveiy few ■days, to gradually harden the plants to a natural condition. In this man- ner plants can be bad S inches high with blooms 5 inches in diameter. For Cut FZotocr.s— The pot system is employed by all English growers and doubtless most of those on the Continent. Culture, same as for Mar- ket or Single Stem as far as training is concerned, shifting from time to time as directed for specimen plants. Propagation may take place from February to May, according to the variety and requirements of the cultivator. Throughout England these plants are potted and plunged in the open border as .soon as danger of frost is over, and could be so treated in this country if it were not for the I'avishes of the Tarnished Plant Bug, which is so numerous. If exliibition blooms ai^e desired they may be grown to single stem, •or stopped early in June, saving three breaks which are grown on, each to produce a flower later. 16 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL (iraftiHfi — There are two objects in grafting clirysaiitlieinuius, first, to increase the vitality of wealv growing varieties by grafting upon strong Icinds. Second, to display a number of varieties on one plant at the same time. To the experienced gardener this art is of little or no interest, but to the novice there is something wonderful in the sight of a plant having a dozen or more distinct varieties flowering simultaneously. Such plants attract a great deal of attention at the exhibitions. Where it is tlie desire to increase the vitality, cuttings are struck in the autumn or winter months, and grown on in a cold greenhouse \mti! early spring. These are used as stock upon which to graft, and should be done in March or April. Select scions from the weak growing kinds and cut the end in the form of a wedge. After cutting out the top of the stock an inch or so above the ground, make a slit an inch in depth in the stump and insert the wedge shaped scion, tying securely in place with latlia or light cotton yarn. It is necessary that the wood of lioth stock and scion be in a half- ripened condition, reasonably firm, and if pos.sible have both the .same size. In case it is impossible to find scions of the same diameter as the stock, the scion should be set to one side of the incision so that the bark of both will be even on one side. A moist, warm corner of the greenhouse or any place where a close atmosphere can be maintained for a few^ days will be necessary to insure their uniting. If the weather is warm and the sun very bright it is sometimes advisable to shade the planrs to prevent scion from wilting, and occasionally sphagnum moss is wrapped around the union and the foliage moistened to prevent to rapid evaporation. As soon as the scions become established, which is generally in the course of eight or ten days, the tying material can be removed and the plants given more air, i-eceiving the same care and attention as other plants. For grafted specimens it is important that all the varieties sliouhl flower at the same time, and to secure maximum effect some thought should be given to arrangement of the colors. The most showy specimens are produced by grafting upon strong growing standards, using one variety to each shoot. All lateral growths or breaks startuig out of the stock should be removed as fast as they appear. In Open Border — Most of the previous forms of plants may be grown in the open border with fairly good success. The essential points are that tliey be planted on light soil which permits of their being taken up without breaking away too many roots. If large specimen plants are to be treated this way, ample space must lie given so they do not become crowded, and afford the operator room to attend to stopping, etc. The lifting and juitting should be done not later than August l."»th, f.o that the plants will become well established in their new quarters be- fore buds are formed. After potting it is necessary they have a copious watering and be set in a sheltered place out of the sun and strong drafts as much as possible. An old shed that will afford some light is a very suitable place. Fi-om this time on little water will be required at the root until they MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS 17 have become tborouglilj- established. It will lie advisable, however, to dew over the foliage several times each day to prevent flagging. As soon f.s established, give light, gradually increased each day imtil they can stand full sun. Hardy Chrysanthemums — Most Chrysanthemums are hardy out-of- doors in the northern states with slight protection as far as their roots are concerned, but fail to be satisfactory owing to early frosts which ruin the buds when in a half-developed condition. The most serviceable varie- ties are the early flowering Pompons, which perfect their flowers before frost. Many of the later ones can be used to advantage in the southern states, or in localities where severe frosts are not expected until the mid- dle of November. ('MAPTER VI. PACKING PLANTS For E.fi>rcss — For sliipnieiits not requiring more tlian five or six days to reiicli destiiiMtion, iiaek in wooden boxes that liave been previously lined with i)aper or other material to keep out the frost. The plants should be thoroughly watered, turned out of the pots and wrapped tight in some sort of pliable paper to keep the eartli intact. With a light coat of ex- celsior on the bottom of the box, the plants are then placed in rows close together on their sides, with ball of earth next to end of the box. This is followed by another row in which the ball is placed next to that in the first row, the operation being repeated until bottom of the bo.x is covered. In putting in the next tier, re- verse them, beginning at the other end and so continue luitil finished. The main object is to pack securely, in-eventing them from shifting, even tliough roughly handled. .Vny intei"- vening spaces lietween the l)lants and side or top of the ln>x should be filled with ex- celsior, sawdust, or some other material, so that if the pack- age is turned upside down they cannot move about. (See Fig. G.) Inexperienced iia<'kei-s invariably fail in this respect and often when the plants reach destination they have so shifted in the box as to be en- tirely destitute of soil, as well as badly broken. See to it that they can- not move. Each variety nnist be lalteled and some means provided so that the reciiiient can unpack without danger of getting them mixed. A system many have adopted is to wrap one, two, three or four plants of a kind into a bundle, each bundle being i»rovided with a label, and are thus packed. Where five or more of a kind are ordered they are separated by a sheet of paper. In very severe weather it is sometimes necessary to wrap the boxes with several thicknesses of paper as a safeguard against frost. In very warm weather the foregoing method is impractical, as they are likely to heat and thus be ruined. From May to October the plants are generally Id, C. BOX or PLANTS PHOI'KKLV PACKED. PACKING PLANTS 19 M rapped and set upright in shallow boxes which ha\e been provided with a post in each corner to which cleats are nailed. Then slats are placed an inch apart to form the cover, thus assuring a free circulation of air. For Mail — In packing plants for mail shipments the soil is washed f]'()m the roots, these are then wrapped in damp moss and wax paper in small bundles, containing not to exceed 25 in each bundle. These are gen- erally labeled with a tough paper label and packed in parafine lined boxes or those made of corrugated board. All unoccupied space must be filled fii-mly with excelsior or similar material. Foi- Export — In packing for export there are two systems employed, one for the winter months, when they are packed tight, and the other tor summer, which should provide light and air to the plants. When packed close, excessive moisture is to be strongly guarded against. Under irMih conditions the plants are sure to rot if they are to remain packed lucre than six days. There is sufficient moisture in the plant it.self to retain vitality for some time, and whatever is used to fill up the Inter- vening spaces should be perfectly dry. Moss, excelsior or cocoanut fll)er are the best materials for filling. Plants that are to be exported should l)e pnt into a cold, airy liouse for a week or ten days and watered very sparingly so as to harden the v.'ood, as they usually porish in transit if the growth is soft. Before plac- ing in the boxes remove most of the foliage as it is very apt to die and ■cause decay. The balls of earth should be wrapped in dry moss and tied securely. Place the plants in an upright position, on the bottom of the box, using a cleat to each row ; to hold them secure. If the weather is severe, protection against frost will be necessary, and ma.v be provided as I'leviously described. In hot weather the same method is employed witli the exception that damp moss is used, wrapping each ball with wax paper. Holes are bored through the sides of the box to admit light and air. The holes are gen- erally covered on the inside of the box with galvanized wire screen to keep mice from girdling them while on ship-board. Small foreign shipments are sometimes laade by removing the soil and placing the plants in tin boxes, filling the intervening spaces with dry cocanut fiber or moss. It is very important when packed in this manner that all the leaves be removed except those undeveloped at the top. If the plants have been hardened there will be little loss. It is easy to test any system of packing, by preparing a shipment, and lay it away for a period equal to that required in transportation, after which it may be opened and the condition of the i)lants carefully noted, or if desired pot them to ascertain how many will survive. CHAPTER JI I. COMMERCIAL FLOWERS. The general public do uot consider the diffej-ence in character of the many varieties now grown, but admire them for the beauty displayed. With the Florist it is far different as he raises flowers for the sole i)ur- pose of placing them on the market from a renumerative standpoint and tlnis should be familiar with their merits and defects. Commercial varieties are those which possess the desired qualitications and characteristics to meet the demands of the grower, wholesaler and consumer. Those most in demand are of easy culture, growing only to a mod- erate height (not to exceed four feet) and produce flowers of pleasing colors. White is pi'obably in greatest demand, next comes yellow, tlien pink ; with a decided preference to those which are most pure in their respective color tones. Red and bronze are grown in comparatively small quantities. P'orm and substance are both given consideration ; those that do not ^lii]i well are soon condemned. When the stock is lo be handled through the connnission houses and reshipped to the retailer, the incurved varieties generally stand the handling with least injury. As a rule the Foreign varieties do not meet tlie requirements of the commercial grower. It is imperative they bf planted early, selecting crown bud to secure double flowers. If planted in .July very few of those from al)road can compare with American sorts. The reason is obvious. The Foreign raisers of seedlings, reserve those which produce the largest flowers — irrespective of other characteristics, as the exhibition class is most in demand. In America the bulk of the plants sold are tJiose having connnercial merit, hence those interested, select from their seedlings those producing the most pleasing colors, best foliage with strong, erect stems in pref- ei'ence to size alone. The grower who invests largely in foreign sorts, with the expectation of superior quality of salable stock, is prone to disapi)ointment. Inability to plant early, as well as failing to give as close attention to details as the ex- hilntion cxjicrt can. are tlie causes of the grower's downfall. The length of time retinii'otl to produce the crop, whether the desired date of flowering be early, midseason or late and the quality of blooms best suited for the grower's trade, are matters whi( h nnist receive con- sideration before selecthig the kinds and deciding upon tlie best cultural methods. As the vigor of the plants has unuh to do with the quality of blooms, wo would recommend planting stock of niidseason kimls from 2-inch pots COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 21 early in June (early and late varieties will be treated under separate headings). Cuttings struck early in April should be in fine condition for June planting, nine inches apart each way is about the right distance. If the demand is for medium rather than large flowers they may be stop- ped, allowing two or more breaks to grow on, each to make a bloom. ^oi/— Fibrous sods cut 3 inches thick and piled grass side down the preceding fall with one-fifth their bulk of half decomposed mamn-e makes an excellent compost for tilling the benches. If it is heavy clay some sharji sand should be added to increase the porosity. Four or five inches of soil in the bench is the right depth, the furiner preferable. When planting firm well around the plants, leaving a slight FIG. 7. BENCH OF "IVORY" TIED TO WIRES. depre.ssiou to receive the first few waterings, the object of this course is to keep the soil from becoming sour. As soon as there are signs of nctlve growth which .usually requires about two weeks, the water slmuld lie in- creased gradually until the whole is thoroughly saturated. Fresh cut .sods are e(iually serviceable provided they are projicrly handled. If cut as directed tln-ee inches thick, one thickness may be laid grass side down and the remainder of the bench space filled with fine soil, or they may be run through a sod crusher, placing the coarser part at the bottom and the fine on top. If either these melbods are :nlopted a light covering of manure may be placed on the bottom of the bench before filling. We have grown thousands of fine blooms without the use of ma- nure, relying upon light apiilications of chemicals as the plants required it. Fibrous sods supply abundance of humus which is so essential to plant life. Tijiiif/ — .\s soon as the plants are 8 inches in height some arrange- ment must lie made for staking and tving. There are several svsteras : — 2% SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL dwarf, short-jointed varieties, like Merza and otliers, may be tied to wires running full lengtli of the row, supplying additional wires when required. See Fig. 7. Some use stakes fastened at the top to a wire stretched tight over each jow. ^lost commercial places use the twine system, which consists of two v.ires. one over each row of plants and the other a few inches above the ^(»il. Two-ply jute twine is cut the proper length and tied to top and bottom \\ire. To this twine the plants are tied as often as required. See Fig. S. Wdlcriii!/ — From this lime on the principal detail is watering, whicli recpiires ( onstant attention and whosoever has this charge must rely on his own (liscretu)n. The plants being vigorous, will use up quantities of water each day and from this time until the flowers are cut they must not FIG. 8. HKNCH SHOWINO ITAMS TIKI) TO TWINE. .suffer for the want of it. At the same time we must guard against over- doing, particularly is this the case with many of the weaker growing sorts \>hich suddenly tell us of our m:il-treatment by the foliage beginning to turn yellow, showing a sickly ajipearance. Tlie best remedy is witliholding vater. not to a degree that will injure the plant for want of it, but suffl- cient to restore its normal condition. Let the appearance of the foliage be an index to the supply of water. As long as the foliage is luxuriant and healthy in color we may feel assured that the supply of water is not in excess of their demands. To maintain these conditions it is impoi-tant that all dry spots in the benches be thoroughly watered before spraying the plants. COMMERCFAr. FLOWERS 23 Those who prefer to do watering and spraying in one operation sliould walk backward, watering the dry spots as they appear and then do the spraying. If tlie spray reaches the diy spots tlieir identity is lost and thus are passed by without fully saturating. Spraying — Spraying overhead will be uecessai-y to keep lied Spiders in check, which are Aery hard to control. This process will re]>lied. The effect of such aiiplications are revealed by the appearance of tlie plants and the resultant flowers thus produced. From this it is evi- dent that what actually takes place in this construction of plant life is ver.v obscure, lience we nmst be governed wholly l)y observance, determining- their jieeds by what is presented to us in their growth. There are several ways to i-cach this desired end, viz : first loji dressing 24 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MAXl'AL with manure, the streii.i^th i>t which is talven to the roots in liquid form by tlie ai)}ili<'ation of water. Second, by extracting the soluble jiarts of ma- nure, diluting to the desired degree and applying in solution: third, tlie use of liquids made from soluble chemical salts. All three methods are equal as far as producing the desired crop is concerned provided they are judici- ously applied, but there is a marked difference in the cost of material and jabur involved. The jtresent price of manure, the labor reqnii'ed to make if acduced to a liquid, even the casual thinker is confronted with the ques- tion — why all this uinieccssary expense? The experimental station have taken uii these matters in detail and set forth in their reiioi-ts that chemi- cjils juc eipial to natural manures in the production of crops. \\ I' use a mixture known as Chrysaline, one jiound of which is as etli- ( lent as 8U IVis of manure. The former is prefectly soluble while tlie latter must be leached in some way before it is available, one is clean and odor- l,.ss a- so much salt, the other dirty and offensive when manipulated In ;;i:\ form. The strength of chemicals are known (luantities and constant, while manures are uncertain and variable. ('Iiciiiirai Fertilizers — In the case of chemical fertilizers most of tlie failures are due to too strong application. A few years ago we were using ('li!\s.iline at the rate of 1 ounce to C. gallons of water, but recent observa- tions indicate it should not l>e used stronger than 1 to 10 and when the soil contains consider- able manm-e 1 to 20 or 30 gal- lons gives far ))elter results wlien used before the buds are selected. Some will consider this a very weak solution, but experience lias shown it suth- cient and the old adage "better be safe than sorry" will be ap- preciated by those who use sucli concentrated chenncals indis- criminately. Once a week is as often as it should be applied to most varie- ties and never when the plants t»how signs of dryness. A very good plan is to go over the benches and water all dry spots beft)re applying. It is a great teuiptation to thost* who FIG. I». AI-l'KAKANCE Ol' I'Ol.tAGK WHKX OVKHFKl). COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 25 have not used chemical fertilizers to over do. It must be taken in>To -consideration when feeding solutions of any form they are talceu up through the roots, and the process of assimilation immediately follows. Food applied in this way is more available than any other, and herein lies our great danger; we are apply- ing a solution that is colorless, odor- less and tasteless, having every ap- pearance of water. Liquid Manure — Liquid manure was In use many years before chemical fertilizers were known and in the hands of the inexperienced is nmch safer. There are so many ways of formulating liquid manures that it is impossible to give a definite rule with assurance of having the best. Those of experience know by the color when it is safe to use, but such knowledge is difficult to impart to others. The following rules are considered safe; Vz bushel of horse or cow manure to 1 barrel of water. These proportions are practically 1 pint to the gallon, so that those requirng a small quant- ity can make to suit their needs. Sheep manure is strong and will re- quire li-j barrels of water for tbe same quantity. Hen ami pigeon maiuires are excellent, Init being very strong are safest when used in weak solution, and should not exceed 1 pound to 10 gallons. In preparing these liquids the manure is generally put in a coarse burlap bag, allowing it to soak for two or three days. A box or barrel may be filled and water applied, leach fa.shion, but the liquid thus obtained is very strong and will need diluting. An old rule is to dilute lo the color of weak coffee, but this is hardly safe as some of the strong manure give light colored liquids. As we know little regarding the strength of solutions made from ma- terial at our disposal, the subject is more or less a matter of guess. Fine blooms may be obtained by their use, and by closely observing growth of the plant and quality of flowers it will soon be apparent how to use for best results. Whei'e the soil is fairly rich with manure there is little or no need of feeding until after they have been disbudded. If resorted to at all, the applications should be very dilute or the plants will become too gross at this period, which is marked by the thick crisp or harsh feeling foliage. When a leaf pressed between the thumb and finger cracks and will not return to its normal position it is evident the ti'eatment has been too FIG. 10. BLIND GROWTH FROM EXCESSIVE NUTRIMENT. 26 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL generous. Siieli coiulitions frequently cause some vai'ieties to become blind, that is the joints do not elongate but form a compact mass of foliage at tlie toji of the stem and literally refuse to iiroduce buds. In either case it is liest to discontinue feeding, so tliat nature may help to rectify this error. Lime — T.ime and iron enter into tlie construction of the plant to a limited degree, but I)oth of these are generally found in sufficient quanti- ties in most soils T>ime acts a.s a decomposing agent, liberating ammoni- um and minerals contained in the compost, and has a decided solidifying etfect upon the idant tissues. It is l)est applied by dusting air-slacked lime- lightly over the surface of the bed and should be rubbed in with the hands cr slightly raked Itefore water is applied, otherwise it becomes hard and is of little value. Jr())i — Iron may lie applied in the fnvm of iron filings as a top-dressing or incorporated in tlic coiiipost. at tlie i-ate of a pint to the bushel, or by tlissolving a half-oniKc of snl|pliatc of in»n (copperas) in five gallons of watei- and af)])ly this solution. Tt may be added in sraall quantities to cliemiciil or mainu'ial li'inids. liiirnUtfi and Daiiipiini — Experience teaches us that the red varieties and more sensitive and first to show this defect. Some of the pink and wliite and occasionally a yellow burn or damp when conditions are fav- oralile. From the fact that flowers produced under ordinary cultivation are seldom thus affected it is-quite ai>r>arent tiiat the concentration of food to the iietals is the main cause and this is augmented by excessive lieat and iiioistuiv. 'J'o avoid such conditions put on full air early in the day and if pos- sible do all the watering at this time, so that the plants and atmosphere ni;iy become thoroughly dry before night. In vei'v damp weather it is sometimes necessar\ to turn on a little- heat to keep the air dry and buoyant, even if the temperature does not (ienumd it. 'J'be accnmnlation of food elements in the petals beyond a certain amount are transformed by chemical action of heat or dampness into an acid, which dissolves the tissues. Why this defect is so apparent in some \arieties and not in others we are unable to say, unless lacking in the- (lualit.v of sul)stance. Oet varieties thus inclined into active growth, and discontinue feeding after the buds become half developed. They ma.v lack a tritle in size, but be consoled by tlie fact that your (lowers are not ruined. Some competent growers advocate tlu^ use of ciian-oal dust mixed' in the soil as a preventive. Top-JhcKxiiiii — If the vletails given have I>een atrended to, in the course of six to eight wet'ks the stock will be making rapid growtli, and the roots extending to all jiarts of the soil. At this period they will require some additional food and a light top-dressing of manure from sjient hot-beds in a half rotted state, or dry indverized cow or sheep ma-- nure may be used to advantage. If the stock has been i.lanted by May l.'illi, this oi»eration will take' COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 27 place early in July, and 30 days later the second top-dressing may lie ap- plied. If the planting does not occur until the first week of Jinie, we would advise giving the first top dressing second or third week of July, and second the third week of August, provided the plants are in a healthy, active state and appear to need further encouragement. While top-dressing is very beneficial, it has one disadvantage, and Ihat is covering the soil so its condition cannot he readily determined by the eye. Some use three inches of top-dressiny- and :ip]ily it all at once. Watering under such conditions and do justice to the stock is difficult, as it must be done by guess or the soil under the dressing be carefully exam- ined ; it may be dry in places and wet in otJiers. By making the manure fine, adding and thoroughly mixing an equal amount of loam, will furnish material for an excellent dressing. This can be easily distributed on the benches any desired thickness, in accordance ^^■ith the needs of the variety being treated, or in consistency with the strength of the material used. If sheep manure is used one inch of this mixture is ample for the vigorous kinds and less for the weak ones. When horse or cow manure is 'used IV2 inches will be about right. This should Vie firmed down to come in close contact with the soil. In this way the dry spots will be come apparent on the surface of the beds, which is ♦:he only object of this process. If fine manure is not at hand and that of a eoarse nature is substi- tuted, it should be placed between the rows leaving some space )iext to the plants uncovered so the condition of the soil can be detected at a glance. Removing Stools — Plants that have been top-dressed soon throw up stools or suckers from the ground. These should be removed as soon a.-? they appear, care being taken not to injure the roots in so doing. This operation should be repeated from time to time as necessity demands. Buds — In this branch of chrysanthemum culture there is little neces- sity that any great kno\Aledge be acquired regai'ding the two forms of buds, crown and terminals. Those interested in this subject see buds aud disbudding next chaiiter. It matters little whether the bud selected is crown or terininal. The iuiportant knowledge to acquire is, what date gives the best fiower. The bulk of chrysanthemums j'lantetT for connnercial use do not set early crowiis, owing to late ]ilantiug. Some make second crowns late in August, and those planted in July give ternnnals in Seiitember and Octo- ber. It is for this reason the mastery of these oliscure terms are unes- sential. All that the Commercial grower needs to know regarding this subject ntay be sunnned as follows : Buds of Early varieties itlanted during May and June should be selected from August 10th to 2."»th. Midseason kinds Aug. 25th to Sept. 10th and the late sorts, Sept. 20th to Oct. 10, according to when the buds are apparent and of sufficient size to admit of disbudding. The dates given are resultant of many years' records and adequate. 2S SMITH'S CHRi'SANTHEMUM MANUAL Buds of new varieties, or tliose wliieh liave not been tested, sliould be selected at intervals of tive days, from Aug. 20th to Sept. lOtli, at- taching a tree lal>el with the date it was retained. If the tiower is single an earlier date may remedy this defect and if too double or poor in color a later date may be beneficial. Such a course is the only way to become familiar with this i)rouunent feature and a record of the results should be filed for future reference. At flowering time it is easy to determine the best dates, and in mak- ing these deductions, let purity of color be fully considered. The various dates at which the buds of the white varieties are selected, will have no material effect upon the color. Decided variations are noticed in the pinks and yellows and the great- 01 the different in date of selecting the bud, the more contrast. The least permanent color is pink and it is intensified or reduced by variance in such conditions as heat, air, sunlight and date of buds. Flowers from early buds are the lightest, and those from latest buds, darkest in color, provideii other conditions are equal. Yellow is not so easily affected by conditions, although some varieties described as yellow will become bronzy on late buds. When the flowers are developing, an abundance of air, a light shading, to exclude the bright .sun, and a late bud, will give the highest color and best substance. Each grower must decide the best date for selecting buds, as the con- ditions he maintains may be somewhat at variance with those of others. Late buds develop more rapidly than the early ones, in fact there is very little difference in the maturity of those selected August ir)tli, and September 5tli, provided they are the same variety. Should the late buds intensify the color too much, giving the pinks an ol>jectionaI)le purplish hue, and the yellow come bronzy, it would be better to decide upon an earlier bud for future croi)s, providing the other qualities are equal. The date of the Inids also has effect on fullness and size of the llowers. The early buds give the largest flowers, and are more double, but the petals are narrow compared with those from later buds. The flower buying public insist that the stems be of good length and well clothed with foliage. All concede those produced from terminal buds are of brighter color and amply provided for as far as foliage is con- cerned, also much easier managed than the crowns. Earli/ — Since pul)lishing the second edition of this work the flowering season has advanced two months. This is due to the introduction of Golden Glow and Smith's Advance, both of which may be had in bloom from July to OctoI)er, accoiiling to when the.v are planted and date the Inids are selected. Formerly all varieties flowering l)y October I'th were <'onsidered early, but at present such should be termed semi-early. Those desiring flowers prior to October should arrange to bench the plants in April or early in May, which would necessitate the cuttings lieing put into sand in March, securing l)uds in June. July or early August, ficcording to when they ai>pear. Should the early or crown I)ud develop COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 29 too early on Smith's Advance, it may he removed and the next one secured, but Golden Glow usually iiroduces buds as soon as the benches are filled with roots, and the lateral growths wliich follow the early bud terminate in a cluster of terminal buds so that the removal of the early bud \\ill not greatly retard the flowering season. With this variety the date of planting should be considered before hand if the crop is desired at a certain time. From past experience we would suggest planting in i^arly May for flowers late in August and eai-ly September, and early in June for late September crop. By planting every two weeks from May 10th to June 25th, succession may be had from August -0 to late October. Such semi-early varieties as Monrovia and October Frost should be planted early in May if September flowei's are desired and buds selected soon after July 15th. Both of these varieties produce rather thin flowers when planted late or where the later buds are retained. The slow development of these early buds giAes size and fullness that cannot be otherwise obtained. We can not too strongly impress the Importance "of early planting, all kinds that are needed before November 1st, and it should be the endeavor to have them benched early in June (it the latest. It is foolish to expect early flowers from late planted fctock, even though the varieties are naturally early flowering. Late — For late flowers select varieties which naturally mature late, find keep them in a growing state as long as possible. To secure late buds give a liberal amount of water and at the approach of cold nights lessen the supply of air: this will tend to keep the growth soft. The mid- season varieties planted late in July or early August are usually satis- factory. When this plan is adopted do not use very rich soil and with- hold liquid fertilizers until disbudded, otherwise they are apt to come blind. Buds secured from (Ictober 1st to 15th will perfect flowers between I hanksgiving and Christmas. Height of Plants — It is sometimes advantageous to take crown buds rather than terminals, owing to limited space between I)ench and glass. To know the height a variety \y\\\ attain at maturity is important, particularly when head room is limited. If records have not been kept it is wise to confer with those who give these matters constant stud.v find can suggest varieties suitable for the purpose. When to Cut — At what stage of development the flowers should be cut is perplexing to some. The petals have more substance when fuU.v matured, and for this reason most varieties should not be cut before center petals are developed. This gives greater dei)th, adding to finish of bloom.s, as well as increasing the keeping qualities and are thereby in better condition to stand the wear and tear of shipping and handling. It is allowable to cut early varieties unmatured, if fancy prices result therefrom, otherwise it is best to let tliem stand. Varieties having open centers when fidly developed may also l»e cut premature. All blooms should be stored in water at least 12 hours before sending to the market. CHAPTER nil. KXIUBITION HLOOMS The term Exliiltition Blooms refers to the vnrieties which are most t^erviceahle in disphiying tlie greatest development of size, and as size is the chief characteristic considered, many of the best kinds for this [lurpose ar«' of little conserinence to the commercial grower. There are ■i few possessing commercial qnalifications which are of sufficient size to he of some imitortance at the exhibitions, especially where the schedule calls for 20 oi- more lilooms to be shown on long stems in one vase. In such competitions rigid stems with an abundance of foliage, close to the blooms often so enhance the exhibit as to merit the award over those iiaving greater size, but deficient in stem and foliage. Such varieties as r.etsy IJoss, \V. II. Cliadwick and its several s]iorts. Tiiiiotliy Eaton and Y<'liow Kat(jn, etc., are well adapted to this purpose. In begiiuiing this cliai)ter we wish to impress upon the reader the fallacy of laying down hard, fast rules, for many of the best growers obtain satisfactory results under a system of their own or at least nttribute their success to certain methods not usually followed, and yet equally good results are reached by other courses. The first steps neces- sary in the production of the largest and finest blooms is to establish strong, vigorous iilants and maintain this condition throughout their existence. I>ack of water, food, light and air or an over supply of water and food are debilitating. There are two systems which ma.v be employeiT --one to plant upon lienches, as directed in preceding chapter, and in pots similar to the method followed by the gardeners of England. The oidy difference is the.v plunge their plants out of doo]'S until the apiu'oach of the flowering season, while we grow them under glass entirely. This system is looked uiiou with favor by most of the ]irivate gardeners in this country. It is conce the next size larger. If they are first in two-inch pots, three-inch will be required for the tirst shift and 2yo-inch in Si^-inch or 4-inch. When propagated in February it may be necessary to shift again in still larger sized pots to prevent them from becoming pot bound and thus check their growth. Soil — Complete directions on this subject given in the preceding cliait- ter are applicable here as well as the preparation of tlie benches. Planting — Those who have houses of sutllcient height and can plant by May loth, doubtless have best results inasnmch as the plant: has a longer period of growth and becomes thoroughly established. As to depth of soil it may be from four to six inches, the former preferred, as tliere is less liability of its becoming sour by overwatering before the plants are well established. When tJie benches are made ready and filled, the next step is to decide how far apart they shall be planted. There are many opinions upon this subject, and without question the best results are obtained where ample room is gi\en for full development by free admission of air. Ten to twehe inches apart each way is little enough ; much depends upon the size of tlie foliage. In planting, firm them well, leaving a slight depression around each plant to receive the fii"st few applications of water, but do not wet entire until the plants make new roots and are strong enough to utilize all the soil. This condition is apparent at the pushing forth of vigorous growth \Ahich indicates a corresponding strong root action. At this stage the whole soil should lie watered. Firming — After the plants begin making rapid growth, go over the bench with a brick or heavy mallet and firm the soil, so that the original four inches will not exceed three when firmed. If of a porous nature it can scarcely be overdone, but if stiff claj*, caution is advisable lest the drainage be impaired. By planting in shallow soil and finning it well, conditions are established very similar to those of the pot system, which will produce short-jointed plants. Tying — The directions given Commercial growers will here suffice. Those who prefer stake instead of twine can stretch a wire three feet above the bench o^'er each row and tie wire or bamboo stakes thereto, to which the plants are tied as soon, and often, as their growth reiiuires support. Buds and Disbudding — At just what time to save the buds is ever a very perjilexing problem to the expert, inasmuch as climatic conditions have a great deal to do with the results. The change of temperature 32 SMITH'S CHRVSANTHEMUM r^lAXL'AL vbiob takes plai-e in the autuiaii months lias a tendency to npen or solidify the wood, and is innnediately followed by bud formation. In the northern hemisphere this change generally takes place from the 1st of August to the 1st of Sep- tember, according to location. Those living at a high altitude or ad.iacent to large bodies of water are lirst to feel the change, hence are favored with early liuds. In the southern hemisphere this change takes this reason the chrysanthemum flowers in Australia during the months of IMarch and April. Having set forth these facts that climatic conditions are in- strumental in bring about this desired Imd state, we must all consider our own locality and be govei'ned accordingly. Some of the experts secure buds on some ¥IG. 11 CROWNS AS THKY AI'IM AR ON THE ILAXT. varieties as early as the first of August, and get magniti'cnt blooms therefrom. Doubtless they have solved the problem, as far as they are concerned, Imt there are others not so favore trou; Inids taken August 2."t)i, rought under our care we make a record of the date of disbudding, selecting a few of the earliest, and repeating this o])eration as far as possible every five days, up to the mid- 4lle of Seriteniber. When the flowers are cut we make a FKi 12. (KOWN WHEN RESERVED. record of best dates, and the next year we are in a fair position to know EXHIBITION BLOOMS 33 just what course to follow. These records are made on tree labels and attached to the plant. Taking the Buds — Taking the buds is an old and obscure term which simplj' means selecting the best and removing all otliers. Tliere are two forms of buds : Crown and Terminal. The Crown is formed first and if re- moved the lateral growths which surround it will make buds later. The Terminal bud is the termination of the final growth and must be retained as there are no buds to follow. They have also been termed as follows : A Crown bud is surrounded by vegetative shoots and not by other buds. A Terminal bud is surrounded by otlier buds and not by vegetative shoots. hard, thus checking the growth without impairing the quality of the flowers. On plants that liave been planted early the crown buds often become apparent early in August. See Fig. 12. If these are removed the adjacent xegetative growths push forward and will set another bud which is gener- ally a crown and often termed "second crown," late in August or 1st of September; much depending upon climatic conditions and treatment of the plant. If this bud is removed the lateral growths will push forward, and in the course of a few weeks develop a cluster of buds which are terminal or final, as this completes the plant's growth. See Fig. 13. The chief merits of the crown buds are size and nuiltiplieation of petals. Many of the foreign varieties, particularly those raised in England, are worthless from late buds, p r o d u c i n g flowers with open centers, and in many cases so much so that they could be classified as single. The tendency of crown buds is towards loss in color and foliage. Varieties that produceriG. 1,3. lateral retained for later bud. pink or red flowers from terminal buds are inclined to be white or bronze from crowns. Long, bare stems are due to selection of early crown buds. Tliis defect can be reduced to some extent by firming the soil until it is very hard, thus checking the growth without impairing the quality of the flowers. It has been suggested that the term "single bud" be applied to the one known as crown and "cluster l)ud" to the one known as terminal. We can see no objection to using these terms and thus may be able to convey our ideas to the amateur more clearlv. 34 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL Fig. 11 shows tlie crown bud the hiteral growths. If we de- cide to save the crown bud, re- move all hiterals so it will ixyi- pear like Fig. 12, and if a later bud is i)referred remove tlie crown and all laterals but one. as shown in Fig. 13. T h e lateral retained will give a bud later. It may be a second crown or tei-minai, depending largely uju)!! the date of this operation. After the lateral growths are removed, the energy of the plant will l>e directed to the bud wliich begins to expand. Should the buds appear a fe\w days too early, remove the laterals grad- ually, day by day, completing the ojieration on the best date. In this way the l)uds may be hel 1 in check without injury; althd gh wouldnot advise retarding tl they appear on the plant with FIG. 14. TERMINALS AS THEY Ai'l'EAIi. iem longer than eight or ten days. KiG. ir. IKKMIN \r, AITKU r.EINt: DISIU'DDEI). When terminal (Cluster bud) is desired remove the crown, allowing one of the lateral growths which surround it to re- main. In the course of a few weeks this growth will have at- tained some length and show a cluster of Inids. When well ad- vanced it will be noticed that there is one at the aiiex of the stem and one at each of the leaf axils, as shown in Fig. 11. If the center or apex bud ap- pears perfect, retain it by re- moving all others with the thuml) and finger. This opera- tion is termed '•dislunldiug" and should be done as soon as buds are of sufficient size to do the work without injuring tlie one retained. Should the center one lie imi>erfect or injured from any cause, save the next best. See Fig. l.". EXHIBITION BLOOMS 35 The whole subject of buds resolves itself into a few simple facts which each grower must take into consideration before taking any decisive steps, viz. : climatic conditions, date of the exhibition, classes iu which they are to compete, and peculiarities of the varieties under consideration. The operation of disbudding should be confined to the early hours of the day as far as possible, at which time the growth is nun-e brittle and can be easily removed with thumb and finger. As soon as the buds are riG. 10. SHOWING the effect of early and late buds upon the FORM AND COLOR. formed, lateral growth from the leaf axils i)ush forward. These shouM be removed as fast as they appear, or the bud will be robbed of its nourishment which lias l)een previously provided. Stopping — Most of the exliibition growers of England have given con- siderable thought to what they term "timing" the buds, that is, having the flowers in perfection at a certain date. To this end they resort to stopping many varieties. The object is to force flowers at an earlier date than they would naturally mature if allowed to make a natiu-al break. This system has not been practiced in this country to any great extent, although it may be worthy of consideration as competition grows keener. Record of Operations — In a work where there are so many conditions which have influence upon the result, it is very important that each opera- tor keep a fairly complete record of (inantity and quality of fertilizers, and when applied, height of plants at maturity, date of bud, and general connnents as to merit. iSuch records are invaluable for future reference. Such details as watering, spraying, airing and shading are fully de- luied in the chanter devoted to connnercial flowers. Feeding — This operation is also fully treated in the preceding chai"- 36 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL ter. It is impossible to give explicit directions as all tleiieiuls upon the- coudition under which the plants are grown and for this reason it is difficult to impart this knowledge to others with any degree of accuracy. The chrysanthemum, unlike most plants grown under glass, has its season of growth and its season of flowering, hence our object is to pro- duce good, healthy growth and concentrate all energies to the develop- ment of the flower. Some varieties will stand much more food than others and profit thereby. To reach the acme with all varieties, the grower must be familiar with the special requirements of each, knowing when to stop feeding his variety and increase tlie ap]»lication upon another. It is but a step from success to failure, and so it is in these days of close competition, the expert wins out in one class and his opi)onent defeats him in the next ; each having brought their exhibits to the high- est degree of perfection in one case, and a trifle faulty in the other. FIG. 17. i:UD PROPERLY EXPAND- ING, FIG. IS. I5UDS DISTORTED FROM EXCES- SIVE FOOD. Feeding is generally continued until the buds begin to burst and show color, and some growers do not discontinue until the flowers are half developed. But if such a course is followed we would advise diluting the application to one-half the strength used when the plants are in an active growing state. We must remember that after buds are formed, the growth, so far as the plant is concerned, is at an end, and whatever EXHIBITION BLOOMS 37 we apply in tbe way of food is immediately taken to the parts which are now being constructed, namely the petals. At this stage of development the foliage on healthy plants will be dark green and glossy, which is due to the high living, but is not indi- cative of excessive feed ; unless the leaves are curling badly and very important detail can only be gained by the closest observation, learning to know the need by appearance of the growth. It is no great credit to stage a winning dozen if hundreds have been ruined to secure this "survival of the fittest," it is high average that denotes accomplishment in this art. Pot System — Growing to maturity in pots has some advantages espe- cially with respect to feeding as the roots are more closely confined, each FIG. 19. BUDS BLASTED BY THE USE OF TOO STKOXG FERTILIZERS. brittle. Under such conditions caution is advisable. The mastery of this variety can be treated as to its specific needs and again the small (piallty of earth to which the roots are restricted permits of more frequent application of liquid fertilizers. As soon as the plants in small pots need shifting it should be given immediate attention and with each shift a soil of a coarser nature should be used. Such material is usually available when plenty of sod compost is at hand. The shifting continues until the flowering size is reached, which are generally 8" in diameter. When the cuttings are struck in February this final potting takes place early in June and liberal drainage should lie pro- vided by the use of broken pots and fibrous parts of sod. Tamping it very firm with a blunt stick. As soon as they reach the flowering size they are placed about 12 inches apart each way on the benches that have previously had an inch covering of coal ashes or sand to assist in retain- ing moisture. After providing a system for tying, the same details as given in the bench system will be adequate if given close and constant attention. CHAPTER IX RLOOMS GROW N OL'T-OF-DOOK.S' It is not to he iireisuiiied that siircess ran he achieved in exliihition Moouis grown out-of-doors, wliere very cold weather creei)s into tlie laii of Antuum, or severe frosts and freezing weatlier nia\- he expected during the month of Xoveniher; therefore, it slioukl hardly he attempted in other than the southern states. The hest location in the garden for this IHirpose should lie one iirotected as much as possiltle from storms, hlowing rains and winds, and all the hetter if a spot ;'>(> to -lo feet square can he selected, and a C-fodt close-hoard fence huilt all around. Ir is a mistake to set out plants for this puriiose earlier than May, and even as late as June, although many growers are in the hahit of conmiencing earliei*. The results they have at hlooming time are gi'eat tall plants, inclined to he spindling and not of that stuixly, stocky nature which invariably produces the better blooms. Besides they have worked a month or more at their plants that is wholly unnecessary. Soil' should I»e of a stiff rather than loamy character, liberally fertil- ized with manure from the cow lot, which will make It; suBiciently rich and jiorons for a l>eginning. Beds should be parallel, three feet wide, with two-foot walks between and raised six inches, that drainage may lie liad at all times. It is well to box in the lieds with boai*ds six inches wide, and use a few inches of gra\'el for the walks between the beds, 'i'wo rows of ))lants 12 inches apart in the rows are proper distances for setting out in the beds. Get them straight and uniform, and have a few suriijus plants in case any should die or fail to start off properly, that the rank and file may he in no instance broken. Do not use foo many varieties, and have at least a row of each kind, selecting those in preference that have been prize takers at the principal llower shows. A plant will make three exhilntion Iilooms of as good (luality if well fertilized as it will one, so after pinching off the end wlien the I'lant is 12 inches higli. allow but three well-selected limbs to grow, and no more during the entire life of the plant, with the olijeet of one liloom to the limli. or three to each plant. The best means of staking and tying is the wire fence method. Place stout stakes as tall as the plants will grow, eight oi- ten feet ajiart in the row, stretch wire, fence-fashion, to which the iilants ai'c tied and repeat this opei'ation as often as re- (luired. Never allow 1 he beds to become dry. but water and sjiray the iilants each day ;; Cter sundown, and during .\nixnst sprinkle with lione-meal *.^. J. Mitchfll, Houston, Texa.s. who ha.s devoted much time and atten- li'.n to t)ie chiy.'santhcnium. partictilarly the .-subject of exhibiting- and juds- !!'.;-, has kindly suiii^Iied the foreginy- artich-. EXHIBITION BLOOMS 3* around the roots of the plants and give a two-inch top dressing of well- rotted manure from the cow lot. The idea should be to cause the roots to grow laterally rather than downward, hence a great depth in the beds is unnecessary. Liquid fertilizers made about the strength of wealv tea from hen, sheep and cow manure is best, and will contain all the chemical ingredi- ents that the plants will require. This liquid fertilizing should com- mence about September 1st, and 10 days later the first setting of iiower- ing buds will appear. When buds show color stoji all fertilizing and give soft w.-iter. A covering of canvas laid on sloiiing rafters should be given the beds to protect the opening blooms from rain or dust, in fact not a drop of water should be allowed to come in contact with a bloom at any time, and great care should be used in spraying. Disbudding will have to l)e closely attended to, allowing but one (the most promising) to each limb, and usually the terminal bud is chosen for best results. The crown or early center I)nd is best for some varieties, but experience wjll have to be the teacher. Watch for insects closely; caterpillars, aphis, mealy bugs and corythuca that huddle on the under side of the leaves. Keep on the lookout for these enemies, and at the first indication apply tobacco tea or strong soapsuds to ])revent their getting a strong foothold. Do not expect blooms grown out-of-doors to be quite as nice as those with greenhouse- protection, where these elements can be !uore surely controlled. The gtower should never attempt exhibition blooms of any character if ke.Js not prepared to devote time each day to them, and under no circumstances allow the slightest procrastination or neglect. The plants in time will repay most handsomely. Australian Method — The conditions in the southern states are similar to those of Australia, admitting of the flowering of chrysanthemums out-of-doors. Thinking that the methods employed there may be of service to southern growers we give the following suggestions by G. Brunning & Sons, Australia: It should be taken into consideration that their spring is our fall ; so that where the month is specified we should add six months. This would make September, Marcli, or tlie proper time to begin ]iropogation. And again, where it refers to the buils aiii»ei!ring in Febini- ary, we should substitute August. "Stand the old plants of the pre\ious season in ^ome ojieii, airy posi- tion to break. From these suitable cuttings of about three inches in length are taken in September (March"). After removal of some of the lower leaves the cuttings are inserted singly in two or three-inch pots filled with light, open soil and plunged in sand in a close glass frame. The only attention required until they are rooted being an occasional Asatering or sprinkling and ventilation for an hour or two in the morning. "When the plants are fairly established and hardened off, repot into 5-inch pots, using a good open soil and well-drained pots. The soil need r.ot be too rich as only a moderate growth is desirable at the present 40 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. stage. Pinch out the lending shoot at tliis time, thus causing the side buds to break and furnish the necessary leading growth. The plants are plunged in sand in an open sunny position and progress rapidly, so that by the second week in November (May) the.v are ready for 7-iucli pots, A\ hen a little richer soil tlian previously used can be substituted, in wliich they may remain until the first week in January, (July). "Now, instead of removing them into larger pots, break a good sized hole in the iiottom of the pot in which they now are and plunge to the rim iu a well-drained and sheltered bed, placing some good prepared soil FIG. 20. SHELTER OF SNUG HARBOR. xnider them, (such as a mixture of heavy loam, peat, sand and manure), say in the following proportions: Vt heavy loam, 14 peat, 14 sand and Vi horse droppings: add some crushed bones, wood ashes and a little soot. Should heavy loam not be procurable clay may be used as a substitute. "By this method an opjiortunity is afforded them with liquid manure much easier and often than could be done if planted out in the open ground, and the I'lants will not attain such a height, provided they are firmly potted when shifted into the 7-inch pots. "Tlie only liquid manure we would advocate is made by filling a small bag with al)out 28 lbs. of fresh cow dung, adding a little soot (about 4-inch pot full) placing same in a tub containing 20 gallons of water, leaving it to stand three or four days before using. Dilute V2 piut of this mi.xture to 2 gallons of water. Renew this preparation every two or three A\eeks. This manure may i»e given from the second week in January (July), not oftener than once a week till the buds are taken, as over- EXHIBITION BLOOMS 41 manuring has a tendency toward promoting blind buds and in their later stages causing blooms to damp." Shelter or Snug Harhor — At tlie approach of cool nights protection will be necessary where the flowers are to be perfected out-of-doors. The plan generally adopted is to build a light framework upon whicli cloth is stretched and fastened to form a roof. For tlie sides a cloth cui-tain should be provided and fastened in sucli a manner that it may be rolled up from the bottom to admit air on pleasant days. If the plants are situated next to a building or tight board fence this will answer for one side of the enclosure to which the framework may be attached. See fig. 20. CH AFTER X. INSECTS Aphis — The black and green apliis infest eliry.santlieniiims in all stages of their development and are very persistent in their depredations. The best remedy for the amateur ^yho grow their plants out-of-doors is to aiHily one of the several forms of tobacco extract, such as Nico- Fume, To-Bak-Ine, etc., which can be purchaseil of any of the large sup- ply houses in quantities to suit the need with directions for its use. This is diluted and applied with a spray immp. Ilaunnond's Thrip Juice No. 2, reconnnended for Thrip, will keep the plants very clean and is applied tlie same \vay. Tobacco dust is often useful when only a few plants are effected, and is applied dry after the foliage has been wet so it will adhere. Those who devote a considerable area to chrystanthemunis under glass will find an easier way to eradicate aphis is by the use( of tobacco stems as a fumigant or by using Hydor- cyanic Acid (ias. If tobacco stem.3 are used it is neces- sary to dampen them a few hours ahead so they will burn slowly and prevent blazing, wliich gen- erates heat and gas* that often burns the foliage. Some prefer tobacco dust or a manufactured article tailed Tobacco Punk, wliich is strips o' liajter saturated v/itli nicotine. Both of these I turn slowly and are very satis- f.ictoi'y. In fumigating witli toliacco there is less dangei' of burning the tender tips if the foliage is wet and with Cyanide it should be dry, so avoid spraying late in the day it is to be used. ChrDSonthrinimi Miihir — Th," ean species given above. Since then the several Federal and State inslitntions interested in sudi subjects have devoted considerable time to further investigations. Thus ends the American history up to the itresent, but unfortunately the n)idge still endures and jn-objiMy will continuf to be a menace to a greater or less tlegree, depending upon how thor- ough and vigilant the growers of this country are in the applications of the various remedies reconnnendeil. Doubtless it has come upon us through importa- tion of stock. In the adult stage it is a minute fly 1.7o milometers (about one-twelfth of an i n c h long), and in this stage deposits its eggs wiiich in a few days begin de\elop- ment showing slight swell- ings or galls. By opening these galls we find a yellow colored maggot, which, in the rn:. 2i VnULT FEMALE, EMARCiED. NA1URA SIZE ABOUT l]o INCH. course of time, develops to Courtesy of Bureau of Entomology, T'. S. the fly and .so multiplica- tion ?s continued. Department of Agriculture. 4 4 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL Tliey ileixisit eggs in all paits of the plant where the growth is young and tender: upon the leaf and leaf stems, the stem of the plant, the huds and even on the suhterrancan slufots or root stalks, provided, of course, these are exjiosed to the aij'. Their molestations are conhned to tlie ('hiysanthennnn fannly, including the section which Florists are most in- terested in, as well as the garden kinds. In aggravated cases they heconie very numerous, stems and foliage are literally covered with tliese little galls, which intercepts the natural development. They hecome stnnted and distorted and if allowed to go luichecked they will i)roduce few if any cuttings for proiiagation. AVhile hand ]iicking the atfected leaves and stems and hurning the lefi'ise will he iielpful in cases whei'e there arc so few as to give slight <-oncern, it cf(>i-e it has deposited eggs. Either these agencies, used the same as reconnnended fur Aphis, on page 42, will be effective From the most ennnent entomologists we learn the life cycle of this insect: as near as can lie determined is from Jn to .'!(> days. — that is from the time the egg is laid until the adult is developed and ready to repeat the operation. Here we wish to im])ress upon the reader that while thirty days may cover the life cycle, this period is not of sutRcient duration to give assur- ance of clean stock even though continuous fumigations have been main tained. Our exiierience teaches us that where the stock plants are kept ;\t a temperature below ."0 degi'ees the develojiment is very much retarded, and where freezing i)oint is maintained the state of hibernation, may lie continued for several weeks, so that freQuent examinations of th.e plants and the cuttings taken therefrom should lie continually i-esorted to. If the foregoing is true, the life cycle deiiemls upon conditions during th" stage of incubation and should be fully considered bef(n-e there is any aliatement in the process of elimination. When w (> considei- that the female is capable of laying a lunidred or more '^ggs, it is evidence of the importance to keeri a close watch the year around for the slightest mani- lestations. fud all employees slK.uld lie instructed to report their presence w hen detected. Why we wish to emphasize the importance of not discontiiuiing fumi- gations to soon, we beg to call attention to the fact that in lOls we were convinced our stock was entirely free from this pest, but upon transferring the old plants to new (piarters we still found approximately a half dozen vvliich showed ;i few galls. This leads us to believe that fumigations at least twice a week should be continued throughout the sunnner months. At the return of longei' days, more sunlight and higher tenii>erattn'e (uider glass, the more rapid the development, lioth in the transformation of the larvea and the activities of the females, a similar period exists as INSECTS 45 tlie sun retards tlirctu^'h September and October. iMiriiii,^ these eras nightly i'lnnigations, or at least every other night, should be contiiuied to keep them under control. It has been determined the Hy emerges from the gall after nudnight and doubtless fumigations between that time and morning would be most ■effective. We have Vieen able to keep well under control by fumigation at 6 ]t. m. every night, using Tobacco paper and Cyanide alternately. In using Tobacco paper occasionally the thrips, which are a serious Chrysan- themum pest when the.v get a foothold, are easily subdued. Kecent investigations have demonstrated that spraying the plants with nicotine sulphate 40'/' one part to five hundred parts of water, with the tiddition of one ounce to the gallon of Fish-oil Soap, will kill the emerg- ing adults and a large percentage of the eggs, but the oi-eration should be repeated four or five days. This method may be very useful where a small Lumber of plants are grown and possibly be less ex])ensive, but in larger •establishments where there is considerable space to be treated, fiuaigatiou is undoubtedly the most pi'actical owing to the saving in lai>or and the I'robability that infested parts nnght not be reached by the siu'ay. It may tilso be very useful in localities wliere Chrysanfhemums are grown out of doors. To the Chrysanthenmm grower the serious part of this question is the improbability of ever being entirel.v free of this intruder. No one is im- nmne as long as new stock is purchased and it behooves every one inter- ested in this class of plants to do their part in an endeavor to keep them under control. We occasionally buy plants that are apparently clean, hut on the other hand a greater part are more or less affected. We prefer Cyanide to tobacco fumigation, being more powerful and lasting ill its effect. There are two forms of Cyanide, the potassium and the sodium, both are deadly poison, either in the crystal or liciuid form, :..•; well as the gas eniitted when brought in contact with sulphuric acid. '1 he highest grades of Cj'anide are the best for this purpose and as lOo parts of Sodium Cyanide are as etlicient as 120 parts of Potassium Cyanide, we prefer the former. Since the publication of third edition Sodium Cyan- ide has been placed upon the market in form of an egg — is known as Cy- anegg — and these pieces do not vary far from 1 oz. each. When purchased ii: this form it eliminates the necessity of weighing out the amount for each jar. The quantity used is based upon the cubic contents of the house, which is jiractically 1 oz. to each (J,()00 cubic feet. A house 30x100 feet with aver- age height of S feet will contain 24.000 cubic feet of space. For such a house we use four small stone jai's and jn-efer such as liold only S to 10 ounces (dishes used for baking beans, known, as indixidual bean dishes, ai'e very serviceable) rather than larger ones, as they are easier handled and more convenient. Use a stone ,1ar of sufficient capacity to fill the necessary number of .i;;rs and figure '^ ounces of acid .solution to the .iar. To prepare this solu- tion put 3 parts of water in the jar and add 2 parts of couunercial sulphuric 46 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL, luid tlieu stir well with a wooden paddle — never use any metallic dishes as the acid soon destroys them. An ordinary tea cup with a handle is very servicealtle in tilling the small jars — and, as previously stated, 3 ounces to the jar is sufficient to ferment and decompose the Cyanegg. When the jars have received sufficient amount of acid solution place them on the walks at as nearly equal intervals as possible so that the gas will reach all parts of the house. The ventilators and other outside open- ings are closed, so all is in readiness. I'lace the re(|uired number of Oyanegg in a paste-board or wooden box (cigar box if handy), and, be- ginning at the end of the house farthei-est from the door or exit, droj) the Cyanegg into the jar passing rapidly to the next and so continue until all are accounted for and out of the house locking the door. In large houses or ranges where there is a considerable space to be gassed it often requires the services of two or even more to drop the Cyanegg. The course to be traversed must be considered before hand so that each person can reach free air and safety at about the same time and thus avoid the gas fmnes. Those who have not used the deadly poison should be very careful both in handling it and after it has come in contact with the acid. The gas is as transparent and colorless as the air, but when inhaled it is death to all animal life. Never undertake to investigate its action or re-enter the hctuse for three hours after its installation. Also see that the houses are liK-ked to itrotect persons who are unaware of the danger. Iff (J Spidrrs — The most difficult insect we have to contend with under L;]ass is tlie red spider, which is very minute, scarcely discernable by the naked eye, but if allowed to go unchecked will become very numerous, form- iiig, a tine web about the leaves and buds. It is generally first detected on the underside of the leaves where they are not dislodged by spraying. Dry, hot air is most congenial to their welfare and after these conditions have been brought about by turning on heat, houses have been ruined which were apparently clean and gave great promise early in the season. The best remedy known is water, which should be applied in the form • if a si)ray with as much force as possible to destroy the web ;ind dislodge them. It is imj>ortant that it be applied to the under as well as the upiier side of the foliage. Thorough and repeated applications are the only source of relief. Thriijs — These, like the foregoing, are very small, the adults being scarcely a l-ir. of an inch in length, of a grayish white and very slender or hair like, in fact they look very much like clipiiings of white or gray hair. Their presence is first indicated by slightly brown discoloration between the nddribs on the under side of leaves and when allowed to go unchecked the whole nndersurfaee will have a decided brown cast, event- ually extending to all parts of the plant including the buds and blooms. Si)raying with considerable force will dislodge them to some extent. The best remedy we know of is Tobacco fumigation where the idants are grown under glass or wherever the fumes can Ite s to flag, which may be considered evi- dence of tlieir in-esence. In the young state they are of a yellowisli green color and seem to confine their depredations to tlie apex of tiie stem and soon destrov the center. INSECTS 4 9 As soon as the lateral growths imsli forward they lake to tliese, and thus the operation is repeated until the iilant often hecomes a mass of stunted growth. See Fig. 25. The adults are yellowish In-own, aI»ont o-lc> of an inch in len^rli, and will continue their destructive work upon any part of the plant or flower that is soft and ahundant with sap. They pmicture with such violence as to distort the growth and ruin promising huds, ami later on deface tlie I'etals of expanding tlowers. The pest is known in nearly all parts of the I'nited States, heing more or less destructive lo many other plants, such as asters, goldenrod and sunflowers, and they are very ]»artial t(t carnation blooms. Hand-pi<'king is the best remedy we have found, and wlioever attempts to catch any of these little intruders must he alert indeed. The adults \Aill fly at the first intimation of your presence and the young either hide under the leaves or drop to the lower part of the plant. Vonjthuca (losspi/i ii^ about the size of a full grown aphis: color, a dirty gray, having a woolly appearance. It is more or less troubiesome tln'oughout southern states, l»ut is little knowi! in the north, although it has been reported in many localities. Its habit is similar to the red spider feeding ui^on the under side of the foliage. It is reported as being very destructive, and the affected leaves curl and die. When disturbed they fly to the ground and immediately i-eturn to the plants by climbing up the stems and are soon re-established. The l>est remedy is weak kero- sene enndsion, and this should be applied to the under side of the leaves to be most effective. (jiiil) Worm — The common white grub so jirevalent in meadows is often carted into the house with the soil. The first indication of their presence is, the plant will begin to wilt and eventually die. They harbor in the soil and feed uiion the roots and should be hunted out antlEl) FLY. SHOWING LARVAE AND MATLKE STAGES. the same as the mosquito operates, when the lifeless shell is released and the larva' proceeds to its next victim. Chriisaiithcinioii Fly — This insect closely resembles our honey-bee, al- though a trifle larger. When on the wing it makes a similar humming sound but can be handled with impunity, as it cannot sting. It makes its i'ppearance with the first chrysanthemum flowers and disappears at the close of the flowering season. It cannot be considered a foe or friend, its sole object being to gather bee-bread from the more single flowers. It has been used for the purpose of raising seed, being an excellent agent in fertilizing flowers, as it contin- ually roams from one flower to another. Seed thus obtained cannot be con- sidei-ed very valuable, inasnnich as they never visit flowers that are fully doultle and the results thus obtained would be degenerative rather than progressi\e. ('H\["ri:i{ XI. Rust is not so prevalent in this country ns in Knghuicl from the fact our atmosphere is dryer. It makes itself ai>parent with the approach of cool nights and is generally augmeuted hy excessive moisture. H. J. Jones, Lewisham, England, descrihes this fungus in the follow- ing comiirehensive manner. "It appears the fungus originates in the tis- sue of the leaf, and is mostly confined to the under side, although there are many instances in which pustules appear on the upper surface of the leaf. A pustule, simply described, is a little pimple which hursts, e.vposing a dark brown dust, at maturity. This brown dust is none other than lil aer- ated spores which drop out of the pustule, and fall on, or conje into con- tact with the chrysanthemum foliage, and when this is in a moist con- dition it quickly grows and very si)eedidly develops a germ tube which very soon finds its way into the tissue of the leaf, and after a time repeats itself. "There are many remedies given, such as bordeaux mixture, and aui- luonical solution, as well as other prepared compound.s. These, doubtless, are more or less effective, but we can hardly expect a permanent cure from their use unless we maintain conditions that are unfavorable to the devel- opment of new spores." A few years ago the carnation rust which grows and reproduces it- self in the sanie manner, and as far as we know is identical, caused great -Anxiety among carnatioiiists, who feared its prevalence would gain such a ifoothold as to be ruinous. Exjicrience has taught them to remove the cause or conditions under which it develo])s rapidly. To this end they house the plants early, spra.v only on bright mornings and maintain a dry and buoyant atmosphere as far as possible. If chrysanthenuim growers will take the same precautions there is little fear of the disease l)econiing wide-si)read, or doing great damage. Over-crowding the plants so that the foliage does dry off quickly, indis- criminate spraying, particularly when applied late in the day in the au- tumn months, and lack of air should be strongly guarded against. In aggravated cases it would be well to try the following remed.v, given by W. Wells, Redhill, England, in his new work just issued, "The Culture of the Chrysanthemum." "8i)ray every cutting or plant once a fortnight — from the day the cuttings are inserted or the old plants are cut down with al)OUt a wineglass full of parafllne (kerosene) mixed with one gallon of water, using an Abol syringe with the spray nozzle. If the solution can be kept thoroughly mixed, double the strength may be employed. Then from Jul.v 1st spra.v the under part of the foliage with a dressing composed of the following ingredients: half-pound each of sulphur, soft soap, soot, and lime. The ilot should be boiled for half an hour in one gallon of water: a half pint 52 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL of parafRne slionkl then be added and the mixture allowed to simmer for a luinnte, or so, care being taken to prevent it from boilin.i: over. The dres- .-in.i; should be allowed to stand until it gets clear, and may be kept in iK.ttles. A (piarter of a pint of the dressing may be used to a gallon of water. If. liowever, the fungus is very bad and has olitained a hold on the ](lant, double strength can be used without injuring the chrysanthemum." Lcuf tS/tof — With this fungus ( Septoria ("hrysanthenii E and D) the si'ore bearing cavities are imbedded in the leaf tissue, and as they niature tlie spores ooze out of these cavities and thus spread the disease. They may be killed by applying Bordeaux mixture or some sinnlar fungicide. Another fungus disase which often attacks the chrysanthenunn is known as Clyndrosi)orium Chrysanthemi. It is a more rapid grower rhan the Septoria and the plants affected by it are often so stricken down as to- be unable to make any blooms. The leaves of the affected plants begin to roll up, the outer edges turn- ing under and this condition becomes so apparent that even the inexper- ienced grower will know at a glance that something is wrong. Some varieties seem to be strong enough to withstand this fungus, hence in nearly every case wdiere the writer has known its i)resence it has confined ilself to certain varieties and very often those growing adjacent were not affected in the least. The best remedies are Bordeaux and ammonium nnxtures. The foregoing is an abridged article on leaf spot by Prof. Byron T>. llalstead aiipearing in American Chrysanthenunn Annual. Bonh (tii.r Mi.ii iire. Copper sidphate '• I'ounds Quicklime -I pounds Water 4(i gall(»us Dissolve the coiiper sidphate by putting it in a l)atr of coarse cloth and hanging tliis in a vessel holding at least four gallons, so that it is just covered by the water. T'se an earthen or wooden vessel. Slake the lime in an eciual amount of water. Then mix the two and add enough water to make 40 gallons. It is then ready for inmiediate use. Aniiiioniacdl To/V" /" ('(irhoiHitc. Copper carbonate 1 o'/,. Ammonia enough to dissolve the coitjier Water 9 gallons The copper carbonate is best dissolved in large bottles where it will keei) indefinitely, and it should lie diluted with water as re(iuireie fungi. The one aff"ecting the chrysanthemum is white and forms a (^oat over the leaves and tender shoots and is caused by a sudden check of some isature. Sulphur in some form is the accepted remedy, Iieing aii|)lied as dust directly to the leaves, or by mixing equal parts of sulphur and air slacked DISEASES 53 lime, adflhig water until the eoiisisteney of paste and painting tlie steam pipes. The fornmla given by W. Wells for rust is reeommended for mil- dew and doubtless is effective. Potassium Sulphide is also highly recommended for mildew and rust, applied to the affected parts at the rate of one (Z. to two gallons of water. Many of the private gardeners consider a jireparation known as graiie dust an excellent preventative for mildew and other fungus disease* which is applied with a bellows or some other air blowing device. CHM'THR Ml. SEEDLINGS AND SPORTS Before entering the details of this subject let us consider some of the liatural conditions which have more or less influence ui)on our results. I^ame nature says the chrysantheuunn shall be single and reproduce itself from seed, so in producing these marvelous flowers with almost countless petals we are working in direct opposition to her laws. In some of our imjiroved varieties we are prevented from making fur- ther improvements owing to the pistils or styles being abortive ; and in others the staminate florets provide little or no pollen. In cross-fertilization the operator's desire is to improve the chief char- acteristics, such as color, size, form and fullness. It is beyond all human l)()wer to obtain exact results in uniting or mi.xing the colors of petals. Pollen of a white flower applied to a red may give red, white, or any inter- mediate shailes which would be many varieties of pink. Tlie union of red and yellow gives similar results, producing red, yellow and all the inter- Uiediate sluwles of brown and tan. We have more assurance when varie- ties of the same colors are <-rosseil. Improvements in colors can only be attained by bearing in mind the laws of nature in making these unions. The chrysantheuunn has a great tendency to revert to its antecedents. Hence it is we get m:iny strangers when two of the same color are crossed. The variety, Mrs. .7. .1. (Jlessner, yellow, came from Edward Hatch and Mrs. J. .Tones, both white or nearly so. This seedling i>artook of the jtarentage of Ed. Hatch which was (iloriosum, yellow, and Ada Siiiiulding, pink. Form, size and t'ulliiess are imiiroved only i)y careful consideration of these (iualirtc;itlons in varieties at our disposal. We are more certain of advancement in the style of growth, securing those whicli are dwarf and sturdy by conlining our operations to such as posse.ss these qiuilities. Large and small foliage can be iiroduced by using those having these 1 eculiarities. What governs the potency of the pistillate and staminate parent we cainiot deternune. We are dealing witli miinite affair.'^. The stigma may sc;ircely lutvc reache«l maturity when the iiollen is applied, or the pollen may be [last its prime with tlie stigma at the height of development. These varied conditions m.-iy have their influence upon establislung the char- acter of the seedling. In selecting varieties for this woik the two classes for consideration are tliose for exhibition and connnercial use. In the former, size is the most imi>ortant factor if the other qualifications are up to the average. The commercial grower requires staple colors, and the purer the color the better. Wze, form, fullness and style of growth are important and should be taken into consideration. Seed Plants — Our experience leads us to believe that single stem plant.-i in 4-inch pots grown naturally without an abundance of uourish- n;eut are best suited for tliis purpose. Th*^y produ'-e less ray florets, hence SEEDLINGS AND SPORTS 55 pollen is easier to gather. The styles in tlowers thus treated seem to be in better condition, or at least more normal and produce seed more freely. We have arrived at these deductions by endeavoring to i)rocure seed from those grown for exhibitions and in nearly every case our efforts iiave been fruitless. Plants intended for seed raising should be staged in a dry, light house, and excessive moisture at the roots or in atmosphere should be avoided. Fcrtiliziiiij — The operation begins when the tlowers are half open by cutting the petals off close to the base witli a pair of scissors, until the styles are exposed. See Fig 27. Fig. L*S represents an enlarged ray and disc floret. No. 1 is a petal which furnishes the color. This is jn-ovided with a style or pistil and when in condition or fully expanded is in proper out (io degrees, until they have germinated. II' kept in too higli a temperature the seedlings are (inite :ii't to damp off, Mnd at the tirst indication of such .-i condition move to a more airy place. As soon as they have made their second pair of characteristic leaACs, prick off into shallow boxes, planting about an inch ai»art. When shov.-ing signs of crowding they should be potted separately and repotted as often as iieces.sary or |>hnited into the beucli. same as standard varieties. SEEDLINGS AND SPORTS 57 They flower the first year from seed and there is nothing more inter- esting than to loolv over a large lot of seedlings and note the diversity of <-olor and form. After the planted seedlings are estalilislied we nip out the t(.p and allow two breaks to come np and flower, and as far as possible select a crown or early bud on one of these, and terminal or late liud upon the other: tlms we gain some knowledge the first year as to wbich bud produces tbe best flower. Those that are considered desirable may be saved and given further trial. tSport-s — The word "sport" in connection with chrysantljemums refers to varieties wliich originate Iiy bud variations and are termed "sports." (.■"ccasionally a variety will sport the first or second year after its origin trom seed, but generally it does not take pla<'e until several years have elapsed, and then often sinudtaneously in remote localities. This has oc- <:-iU"red in this country, the most marked case being that of Mrs. .1. Jones, sporting to yellow. As a rule most of the whites sport to yellow, and pinks to white, altliough Viviand Morel gave us a sport variety, ('has. Davis, which is bronze, and has also sported to white in tlie variety Mrs. Kitson. liOuis Boehiner, magneta pink, sported to white and named L'Enfaut des deaux [Nloncies. This variety sported iinder French cultivation to yellow flnd is known as Leocadie (Jentils. Louis Boelnner, the original variety, has given us several other sport varieties, such as Wm. Falconer, light pink; Mrs. C. B. Freeman, l)ronzy yellow, and Beauty of Truro, bronzy cerise. It is wortliy to note that many varieties liave changed tlieir color in this way many times, while others that are now very okl have uever •shown any inclination to sport. The yeibiw varieties seem iess inclined to sport than other colors, possibly this is due to the fact that yellow is the original color of chrysanthemums. Philadelphia, a light yellow, gave a sport sevei-al shades darker, and is known as Pennsylvania. It need not sxirprise anyone cultivating chrysan- themums to notice a plant having flowers of two distinct colors. Sometimes the sport flowers will be one-half the original color, and again possibly on the same plant another bloom will he the new color entire. It has been reported that flowers sometimes sport in form, that is. give a flower of entirely different form from that originally possessed, such as an incurved flower sporting to a reflexed form. Such cases are at least few and far between, in fact we are inclined to disbelieve that such changes have really taken place. Cultural conditions often change the form of flowers materially, also buds selected, and doubtless some of the cai^es re- ported were simply due to these causes. To perpetuate the new color of the plant that has sported the method generally followed is to cut the leaf on the flo\\'ering wood with a heel or portion of stem and place these under a bell glass or closed case to induce them to make root after which they send forth new growth. Tliese are planted the next season and if any i>ossess the original color they are discarded and those of the new color saved. Generally in the course of two or three seasons it is safe to consider the new variety established and color fixed, as it is termed. VHAPThUi XI II. PREPARING EXHIBITS Some time previous to tlie flowering season suitable boxes shoukl be made ready. Also material necessary for packing and staging, such as (leats, excelsior, pajier for wrapping and lining cases, labels for plants ai d cut blooms, and exbibitors" cards. This will save anxiety at the last when so many details require constant attention. I'Idnta — All pots should be washed clean before packing and each plant securely staked and tied, thoroughly watered, and plainly labeled, ^^'here specimens and standards are to be exhibited, the intervening spaces lietween the blooms should be filled with crumpled tissue paper to prevent shifting and rubbing against each other. With a strong cord draw the plant together as close as possilde without in.iury. If they are to lie transported a short distance and the weatlier is fav- oi-a)>l(' tliey may be taken as tbey are. For long shiitments that will be KKi. "JD. WRAPPING A KlXJOM. six or more hours in transit, i)rovide each plant with a frame work, around which paper can be wraitped to keep the blooms clean. Sliould there be danger of freezing, cotton wadding or several thicknesses of paper will be necessary. Single stemmed plants are usually shipped in boxes the heigbt of the IM-Is, with a post in each corner (extending a little above the plant) to which strips are nailed horizontally to form a rigid framework. The sjiaces between the pots are tucked with excelsior and the tlowers wrapped \.ith jiaper or other tissue. The frame is tlien covered with i)aper or other material as necessity demands. PREPARING EXHIBITS 59 Cut Flon-crs — Blooms that are likely to be too far advanced for the exhibition should be cut and stored in water in a cool cellar with some light (in total darkness the foliage soon turns yellow), cutting off a small portion of the stem and giving fresh water every three days. In this way they may be kept two or three weeks in a very presentable con- dition. All blooms should be cut and stored in water at least 12 hours before packing and longer if possible. This allows them to take up suffeient water to harden the foliage and petals. In brighter weather it is best to do the cutting early in the day while they are firm. The most suitable sized box for packing depends upon the size of the blooms, number to be packed, and required length of stems when staged. They must be of sufficient depth so that the cover when nailed does not crush the blooms. When large exhibits are to be handled, boxes 6 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 10 to 12 inches deep or there-abouts are the most serviceable. The box is first lined with paper to exclude air, and if cold, enough to protect from frost. The next step is to considt the schedule, sorting out each entry so they may be packed by themselves. If no one accom- panies them to attend the staging, each class should be divided with a !=heet of paper and plainly marked, giving class number so that the person in charge will know each entry at a glance. Each bloom should be labeled with a white card plainly written. A very suit- able size for this purpose is 1% by 4 inches, which should be tied to the stem near the bloom. A few extra blooms should be added in case some are injur- ed in transit and the packer will have to use his judgment as to how many are required, by their present condtion and apparent substance. Where the entries require a large number of blooms it is advisable to label them, even though they are to be accompanied with someone who is conversant with unpacking and staging, as it saves much time and con- fusion at the last moment when it is? urgent that all exhibits be in position at the allotted hour. Make rolls of excelsior wrapped with paper 2i'2 or 3 inches in diameter, and as long as the box is wide. Sheets of tissue paper large enough to cover the blooms shoiild be cut on one side to the center, and having the blooms near at hand, all is ready. It requires two persons to pack to advantage, one placing the blooms in the lio.x, and attending to cleating, and a helper tying on the lal)els and hold- FlCi. .30. DI.OOM WKAI'PED. 60 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL ing- the blooms while being wrappeil. Beginning at one end of tiie box place a roll of excelsior <> or s indies from the end. Tiie helper takes a bloom and holding it head down the packer slides the cut tissue paper around the stem, draws the edges downward giving the corners a few turns with the thumb and finger to keep in position. See Figs. 27 and 2S. It is diihcult to say how tight the blooms should be wrapped, much de- 1 lends upon their form and condition. Those of the retlexed type, like Viviand :Morel and Yanariva, may be rolled moderately close without injury, while such varieties as Mrs. H. Robinson and Col. D. Appleton, should lie given a little more freedom. After a little exiierience the packer will detcrnnne at a glance how tight. It is then placed in the box allowing the neck of the flower to rest on the roll of excelsior, the oli.iect being to prevent outer petals l)eing FIG. ol. r.LOOMS PK'OIT.IU.Y ]'\CKEt>. bruised. It is wise to select the largest blooms and those liaving the longest stems for the end of the box. This operation is repeated until the first row across the box is completed and the packing is continued in the same manner until the third row is finished. See Fig. 29. One or more wet newspapers should l)e laid o^•er the foliage. Over these a wooden cleat is placed, pressing the stems down firm and nailing secnrely from the outside of the box into the end of the cleat, so they can not shift. The cleats should l)e placed far enough from the blooms ,so the next tier will not rest upon them and thus be iu.lured. The pack- ing is continued until the blooms cover about one-third of th.e box, then begin at the other end and proceed in the s.im - manner. In warm weather it is advisable to well moisten the foliage, the aim being to keep the foliage wet and the blooms dry. Some prefer not to PREPARING EXHIBITS 61 wrap the blooms, but instead place on a sheet of tissue, I)ringing the ends up so as to act as a partition between the adjoining l)loonis, also the sides. This system of packing is along the same lines as tliat usually employed by tlie wholesale dealers in paclving Roses and Carnations. Foreign Shipmciits — Flowers grown in this country have been ex- hibited in England and vice versa. The directions given tor iiacking are I radical in such cases, Init would suggest the stems benig cut not to ex- ceed 12 inches in length, and use Kift's Rubber Capped Flower Tube for each specimen. These tubes are glass vials with a tight fitting rublier cap which c-onfines the water to the tube and thus the supjtly is sulhcient to keep them fresh. Another method is sometimes employed in which the flowers are packed so they stand upright, a very good system where the exhibit is not \ery large, or the distance to Vie shipped very long. The size commonly used is 3 by 4 feet and 2 ft. G inches in depth, but should the schedules require longer stems a deeper Iiox will be necessary. These boxes are pro- vided with cleats, one a few inches from the bottom and tlie other placed so as to come directly under the bloom. In packing put two cleats in position at one end of the box and after the blooms have been wrapped set them in position and tie securely, top and liottom. As soon as one row is completed another set of cleats are adjusted {uid the work continued. The ends of the stems may be wrapped with sphagnum moss or inserted in rubber capped tubes filled with water to keep the foliage from wilting. Packed in this uianner the foliage dries out more than when laid fiat in the box owing to the large amount of air space, hence the necessity of providing moisture at the end of the stem to pi-event flagging. These boxes are generally constructed with a hinge cover, also one side or end hinged from the middle so that the upper por- tion may be let down, making it more convenient in packing and unpack- iug. Dressing Floirers — This is resorted to somewhat l)y foreign exhibi- tors, but little practiced in this country. In fact most schedules prohibit dressing. The Incurved section requires more attention than the Japanese when this operation is resorted to. The method is simply to remove short or deformed petals and arrange perfect ones to occupy their places, also to separate those which have grown one into the other to form a regular rounded flower when finished. Sometimes semi-incurved Japanese are dressed to give them a reflexed appearance. As far as known about the only dressing done in this country is the removal of deformed petals, w hich are likely to occur in any of the types. Very often strap-petals will appear in the cushion of the Anemone varieties and thus detract from their appearance, and should be removed v.ith a pair of tweezers. CHAPTER XIV. f^tdfiing Phnifs — In arranging plants for exhibition much depends lipon the schedule, which should be thoroughly digested to conform with tlie rules and reguhitions. Then consider space allotted, and if next the wall to be viewed from one side only, the tallest plants should be put in the background and others graduated to the shortest in front. If the exhibit contains more than one color this should be considered and arranged for best effect. Groups for the center of the hall are ar- ranged on the same plan, Imt such exhibits are viewed from all sides and v.ill require greater effort to bring out uniformity. In France the space allotted to plants is covered with light soil, into \Ahich the pots are plunged and the earth covered with green sod. In this way they have the appearance of being permanently planted, which adds greatly to the attractiveness of the exhibit. >'t(i(/iii(i Bloovis—CoUeotions of cut lilooms are generally shown one ill a vase, arranged on ta1)les usually at the side of the hall, so tliere is but one congregational side. Sucli tables will accommodate three rows in widtli and after the vases or glasses are so placed the blooms are ar- I'anged so the middle row will be slightly elevated above the first and the lack row above the second. The oV>.iect is to have each bloom show dis- tinctly both its size and form. Tlie largest ones should be placed in the back row and the smallest in front. When placed in this maimer they appear to be nearly all of a size. The light and dark colors should be al- ternated as much as possible for the best effect. If there are restrictions as to length of stems this must be considered nt the beginning, but if left to the discretion of the exhibitor ten or twelve jiiihes for the lirst row will lie alioiit riglit, and three to six indies longer for each of the succfssivc rows, according to the depth of the Idowi.ii. The foregoing rule is practir-nl where the tables are of regulation Iieight, about 2 ft. 7 in., but if only a foot or so from the floor it will hard- ly be necessary to make any distinction as to length of stem, inasmuch as the exhibit will be viewed from above. When the tables are built terrace- fashion the stems may lie nearly or quite the same length. Boards — The board system so popular in England for staging col- lections is seldom used or little known to .Vmerican exhibitors. It con- sists of a board ls.\'_'4 inches nailed to end i)ieces so that the front will be three and the back six inches above the table and are painted green. Holes are bored to accommodate twelve blooms, three rows front to back. The petals of each bloom are supiwrted by a funnel-shaped cup terminating with a tube into which tlie stem is inserted and when properly adjusted a wedge is crowded between tube and stem to hold securelv. The stem STAGING 63 find cup tube are passed through the hole in tlie board into a tube contain- ing water. At the Kansas City show of 1902, mossed banks were substituted for tlie typical boards. These were constructed by nailing (j-inch boards run- ning lengthways of tables to scantling. The boards were placed far enough apart to admit the neck of a bottle and the back elevated to give a slope of about 3 inches to the foot. Bottles were placed so the top of the necks were even with the boards, at the proper distance apart to re- ceive the blooms and the whole framework was then covered with green moss. This system is veiy practical where large collections ai-e to be staged and has been adopted by many of the managements of the leading flower shows. This system enables us to display a greater numlier of varieties, including those with weak stems, which cannot be staged in vases to advantage. Vases — Classes calling for more than one bloom of a kind are gen- erally staged together and may vary in number up to 100. When three to six are required, 18 to 24 inches are considerd sufficient length of stem; twenty-five to fifty, 3 to 4 feet, and vases of one hundred will need 5 feet or more for those occupying the center. In arranging vases of twenty-five or more the aim is to have each bloom show distinctly and the general appearance as symmetrical as possible. When the schedule states "arranged for effect," colors which harmon- ize are considered best, such as white and pink, or yellow, bronze and red. Sometimes a few of the Anemone section may be used to advantage in such classes, giving di\ersity in form. VHAPTEh' A'l' EXHTRITTONS 'I'lir Mini(i!f'> inches, shown in one vase. I'.est twenty-five iilants, live vai-ieties, grown to single stem and liloom in five- inch iiots, not exceeding .'-.i* inches aI»ove pots. When so arranged the man- ager is nof hampered with questions. The exhibitor knows .i^ist what is required, and the judge has l)ut one thing to consider, — quality. The larger the i>remium the stronger the comiietition. Big prizes and iionor of wiiming s;,ime are incentives which are far-reaching and should be duly considered foi- sake of dis]ilay. This course is a greater necessity ii- localities i-emote from the center of clirysantlienuim cultivation, whiilv is probably between ("leveland ami IMttshnrg. If a final or complete premium list is issued it should appear a few- weeks before the date of the show and may be arranged to serve the pur- pose of a program and thus curtail expense. Tlie ailvertising is an important feature and the jiress should lie furnished with shoi-t items of interest to the public that will also refer directly to tlie exhibition. If possible they should be supplied with i^hotographs of intended exhibits and descriiv tion of same. A month prior to the date posters and other forms of ad- vertising will be necessary. It is of great iuiportance to have a comiietent secretary, as much de- ] ends uiion accurate records of entries, iiremiums, etc. W. N. Rudd, yit. (Greenwood. 111., in his able ai'tide. "'I'he Management of the Exhibition." read before llie .\mericiin ("arnation Society, suggests the following for the accounting deiuirtment: •"The writer pi'efers the De La ^lare system of exhibition accounting, as being simple, speedy and accurate. It consists (■f an exhibitor's Itook. a class book, a judge's book, enli'y cards and en- velopes for them, a set of gunnued labels of different coloi's, 'first premium,' 'second prennum,' etc, to be attached to entry cards by the judges as they comjilete each class." EXHIBITIONS 65 The person best suited to act as superintendent or manager slionld be selected and have full charge of all materials pertaining to the exhibition irom the first day until the hall is vacated. From the schedule and entries received he will know about how nnich space will be necessary for the various classes, and if wise will study the hall carefully, mapping out where each class and group shall be staged. It will also be his duty, un- less left to a committee, to provide suitable tables and vases and other requisites necessary. The vases should be of suitable size to accommo- date the various classes, but should be uniform in each specific class, so one exhibitor has no advantage over another. "These should be lilled and if possible placed rea Total Km Single varieties to he divided in two classes — the large Mowered and the small flowered. POMPONS. Color -to Form 20 Stem and Foliage 20 Fullness •• 2o Total 100 There are many qnaliM<-atioiis to be considered and it is not difficult to determine which exhibit is most nieritorions. The color should be clear and i)ositive, whatever it may lie. Tbei-e is no form which, could be eon- shlered perfect for all the v.-iryiim types. iLacli jiossess specimens which are ideal as far as their particular class is concerned. lilooms having the greate.st depth would li;ive preference to those that are shallow, not only in quality of form, but size. Size is easily determiiied and can ha decided upon without uivat effort. EXHIBITIONS 67 Fullness refers to the number of petals, hence those showing a dis(- or eye would be considered deticient in this respect. Substance deals with the texture of the petals and those which are soft and flabby should be secondary to those possessing a firni texture. The stems should be straight, of good length and stiff enough to prop- erly support the bloom. The foliage should be luxuriant, of good color and well up to the bloom. It is uot always necessary to use scales in judging, as often the contrast of competitive exhibits are so pronounced that awards can be made with but little consideration. Where competition is close it is well to keep the important factors in mind, and if necessary use them. The Exhihiior — A practical exhibitor knows the importance of thor- oughly understanding the rules and regulations as well as the scliedule of the exhibition in which he is to compete, and generally masters these prior to the date. In classes which specify certain colors such as white, pink, yellow, etc., it is advisable to select a variety that is mOst perfect in this respect, avoiding those that are shaded or marked with other colors. Never be confident of success before your blooms are staged or at least until you have seen those of ,\ our competitors. Rememl)er that judging to a certain degree is based upon individual preference, and judges, like others, do not all see the same. The decision may be at a variance with your opinion, but whether right or wrong, do not abuse the judge, or criticise his actions too severely. If you are satisfied there is something radically wrong and your exhibit has not been given just consideration, enter a protest. This should be made in writing, setting forth the grounds of your grievance. Sign and hand to the secretary to lay the matter before the judge. Abide by the rules and regulations and never resort to trickery of any kind to gain a point. Such a course cannot succeed long at be.st, and it would be humiliating to have an exhibit disqualified by such a procedure. CHAPTER XT I. CLASSIFK ATION As very fpw schedules iiiclnde classes for specific types, knowledge pertaining tO' classification lias not been I'nlly promulgated and accepted as an inii>ortant adjunct to Cbrysantlienunu culture. And turllK-r, the hybridist has so crossed and re-crossed some of the sections, that the identity is often rather obscure. Chrysanthemums ]>ossessing certain char- acteristics of form and petalage are grouped into classes, according to these iieculiarities. FIG. o2. l.N CURVED The following arc abrhlged descriptions of various types as adopted by the National Chrysanthennuu Society of England : luvurvcd — The distinguishing characteris- tics are the globidar form and regular out- line of bloom. They should be as near a glolie as possii>lf, the florets broad, smooth, rounded at the tiiis, and regulai'ly arranged. A hollow center or e,\e, or uneveiuiess of outline is a serious defect. See I'ig. :'>-. ■Japanciit — No definition can be given to Include all the remarkable variations of for)n found in the .Tapanese chrysanlhemunis. FIG. oo. Japanese. '^\^^, majority of the leading varieties are so distinctly marked, Ihat nearly eve!-y one would require a special defini- tion. Without regarding the color'^. the foi-m of the florets and blooms furnish ample means of identification. The florets are either flat, fluted, quilled or tubulated, and of var\ ing IcMigtii. from short, straight, spread- ing florets, to long, drooinng. twisted, or ii-regnlarly incurved ones. See Fig. 33. ■1ainin!. Rcpc.rcd — The flowers should he perfectly circular in outline, without a trace of thin- ness in the center, heniispheroidal and witli broad, overlapping florets. See Fig. ;'.nt very few miderstand how ditti- cnlt it is to identify them when reeei\ed in poor ■condition. I'ossibly the recipient has been looking at perfect flowers and the specimens received are en- tirely different as to size, color and other tpialifica- tions. Foliage is often the siu'est means of identifica- tion and in submitting samples do not fail to send a few leaves with each specimen. in., ^i'^. i'ii\.ri'>. If shipped by express see instructions for packing flowers, i)age . If sent by mail wrap each bloom with tissue paper and line the box with wax paper to prevent evaporation, and see that the box is of sulficieiit .strength not to be crushed. Each bloom should be numbei-ed and a record kept so they can be reported ui)on in like maimer. The conditions under which ("hrysanthenunus are grown are so varietl and the blooms themselves so distin'din- 11 Chaptei- A" — Miscellaneous IMants H Standards 14 Jlarket Plants H Single Stemmed 15 Miniature I'' Foi- Cut Flowers 15 O-afting 16 In Open Border 16 Ha'dy Chiysanthemums 1 ' ChHpter VI— Packing Plants 1? For Express If For Mail ^'' 1^'or Export ^^ Cliapter VII — Commeiiial Flowers -0 S. i- 21 Tving ;; , Spraying 23 Pase ^\ i rin.^ 23 Shading' 23 Scalding- 23 Feeding 23 Chemical Fertiliz»>is 24 I-iquid Maniiic 25 I^ime 2G 1 ion 26 F.iuning' and Damping; 26 Top-Dressing' 2(5 liemoving' Stools 27 Buds 27 Farly Varieties 2S I^ate Varieties 29 Height of Plants 29 When to Cut 29 Chapter VIII — Exhibition Blooms 30 Bench System 31 Soil 31 Planting 31 Firming' 31 Tying cil ISnds and Disbudding 31 Taking the Buds 33 Stopping 35 Recoid of Operations 35 Feeding' 35 Pot System 37 Chapter IX — Blooms (rrown ( lut-of-Doors 38 Australian Method 39 Shelter or Snug Harl)or 41 Chapter X — Insects -;2 Aphis 4 2 Chrysanthemum Midge : 42 ■Red Spiders 41; Thrips 46 Leaf Tyer 47 Mealy Bug 47 Grasshoppers 4§ Tarnished Plant Bug ^g Corythuca Gossypi 41) Grub Worin ^r^ Cut Worm 4^ Lady Bird 4,, L.ace-winged Fly 4(, Chrysanthemum Fly jd Chapter XI — Diseases gj Kust '...'.'.'.'...'..'.'. 51 Leaf Spot 50 Mildew -0 Chapter XII — Seedlings and Sports 54 Seed Plants 54 Fertilizing' 55 Page Sf-edhngs 56 Si'oits 57 Chapter XIII — Preparing Exhibits 58 Plants 58 Cut Flowers 59 Foreign Shipments 61 Dressing- Floweis i • ■ 61 Chapter XIV— Staging 62 Staging- Plants 62 Staging Blooms 62 Boards *J2 Vases 63 Chapter XV — Exhibitions C4 The Management 64 The Judge 65 The Exhibitor 67 Chapter XVI — Classitioatiim 68 Incurved 68 Japanese 68 Japanese 1 neuived 68 Hairy 69 Reflexed 69 i.>arge Anemones 69- Japanese Anemones 69 Pompons 69 Pompon Anemones 69 Single 69 P'entifying "& Selection '^O- ILLUSTRATIOXS , Pag- Frontispiece Fig-. 1 — Cutting J'lnch Tamp 5 Fig. 2 — Cuttings 6 Fig. 3 — Stork (TFown by Flat Systt-ni & Fig. 4 — Specinun I'buU 12 Fig. o — Mark.'t IMants U Frg. fl — Box of Plants JTopcrly Packid 18 F'ig. 7 — Bi'llch ..(■ Ivoi y Tird to Wii-es 21 Fig. .S — Brncb Showing Plants Ti^-d to Twin.' r\s. — Appi-arance of Foliage When < )v>Tfo(i pj^_ m — Blind Growth fi-on-i Excessiv.- Xutrim'-nt pjo-. 11 — Crowns as They Appear on th'' Plant 32 Fig. 12 — Clown WIk'U Kcserved 32 Fig. 13 — Lateral Ri-tained for Batcr P.iul 33 Fig. 14 — Terminals as They Appear 34 Fig. 15 — Terniinabs Aftrr Being Disbudd-'d 34 Pi^-. Kj^Showing the lOffect of Early and Lat(^ Buds Upon the Form and Color 35 JM-- 17 — Bud Properly Expanding 3'> Page Fig-. IS — Buds Distorted from Excessive Food 36 Fi^-. 19 — Buds Blasted by the Use of Too Strong Fertilizers 37 Fig-. 20 — Shelter or Snug- Harbor ' 40 Fig-. 21 — Chrysanthemums Showing Galls 42 Fig. 22 — Adult Gall Fly 43 Fig-. 23 — Leaf Tyer, Showing the Lai-vte, ('hrysalis and Moth Stages... 47 Fig-. 24'— Tarnished Plant Bug- 48 Fig-. 25 — Depredations of the Tarnished Plant Bug; Branch Showing- Mass of Blind Growth 4g Fig. 26 — Lace-winged Fly, Showing Larvse and Mature stages 50 Fig. 27 — Flower Trimmed Ready for Fertilization 55 Fig-. 28 — I. Pistillate Floret. II. Staminate Floret 56. Fig. 29 — Wrapping a Bloom 58. Fig. 30 — Bloom Wrapped 59, Fig. 31 — Blooms Properly Packed 60 Fig-. 32 — Incurved 68 Fig. 33 — Japanese 68. Fig. 34 — Japanese Incurved 69 p^ig. 35 — Hairy 69 Fig. 36 — Reflexed 69 Fig-. 37 — Large Anemone 69' Fig-. 38 — Pompon 70; Fig. 39 — Pompon Anemone 70- Fig. 40— Single 71 ..•..•»•..•..•..•..•..(..•..•..•..•..•..•..•..•..•..•..•..•..•■.•..•..•..•■.•.••■••.••..••••••••••■••■•••••••••••■•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Chrysanthemtims For Everyone Since 1907 we have devoted our entire time and energy • to the development of all types of Chrysanthemums and especially those best adapt- ed to commercial and exhibition use. Our collection of standard varieties is unsur- passed in America. As soon as the merits of the new sorts are established we discard the weakest of the old kinds and thus keep our offerings strict- ly up-to-date. Elmer D, Smith £# Co, Adrian, Mich. Catalogue on application. ■•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••■••■••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••■••■ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 000 920 174 9