LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. biieJi.i>:.^.^-g UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. UTHORS. rX WORMELEY. Cousin Bette. Eugenie Grandet. The Magic Skin. Bureaucracy. Fame and Sorrow. The Country Doctor. ambert. iPons. o Brothers. ' .:ahest. Modeste Mignon. Seraphita. Ursula. Sons of the Soil. The Lily of the Valley. An Historical Mystery. Nineteen handsome i2mo volumes. Uniform in size and style. Half Russia, price, $1.50 each. A Memoir of Honore de Balzac. Compiled and written by Katharine Prescott Wormeley, trans- lator of Balzac's Works. With Portrait taken one hour after death by Eugene Giraud. i2mo, half Russia, price, $1.50. GEORGE MEREDITH. The Ordeal of Richard Vittoria. Feverel. Rhoda Fleming. Evan Harrington. The Shaving of Shagpat Diana of the Crossways. and !^arina. Harry Richmond. Beauchamp's Career. Sandra Belloni. One of our Conquerors. The Egoist. The Tragic Comedians. Popular Edition. Twelve volumes, i6mo, cloth, price, $1.50 each; crown 8vo edition, $2.00 ; half calf, extra, $27.50 per set. Mailed, posfttxr paid, on receipt of price by the Publishers^ ROBERTS BROTHERS, Boston. ST. DENIS HOTEL, ^ BROADWAY AND ELEVENTH ST. Opposite Grace Church, NEW YORK. The most centrally located hotel in the city, conducted on the European plan, at moderate prices. Recently enlarged by a new and handsome ad- dition that doubles its former capacity. The. new Dining Room is one of the finest specimens of Colonial Decoration in this country. WILLIAM TAYLOR. Better go to Halifax. It is the most direct wa}' to reach all points in Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland. Besides, you will be ONLY ONE NIGHT AT SEA, and can travel by the safest, most comfortable, and speediest steamer sailing out of Boston for those points, being the well-known and popular CANADA ATLANTIC LINE STEAMER "HALIFAX." Nova Scotia and Cape Breton have become the ideal Summer Resorts, and thousands are flocking thither. Sailings are made from the Savannah Pier, North side of Lewis Wharf, Boston, every SATURDAY, AT NOON. For more frequent sailings during the Summer see dailv papers. Tickets may be obtained of A. DeW. SAMPSON, 306 Washing- ton St., and of the Agents, RICHARDSON & BARNARD, 20 Atlantic Ave., Boston. Unlike the Dutch Process No Alkalies -OR- Other Chemicals are used in the preparation of W. Baker & Co.'s Breakfast Cocoa which is absolutely pure and soluble. It has more than three times the strength of Cocoa mixed with starch, arrowroot, or sugar, and is far more economical, COSTING LESS THAN ONE GENT A GUP. It is dehcious, nourishing, and EASILY DIGESTED. The use of chemicals in cocoa made by the Dutch process can be readily detected by the peculiar odor from newly opened packages, and also from a glass of water in which a small quantity of chemically treated cocoa has been placed and allowed to remain for several days. For more than One Hundred Years the house of Walter Baker & Co. have made their Cocoa Preparations Absolutely Pure, using NO Patent Process, Alka- lies, or Dyes. W. BAKER & CO., Dorchester, Mass. THE MARITIME PROVINCES: HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. ^^^.v.^. _ 'iV^ /-H^^; A GUIDE TO , / X: THE CHIEF CITIES, COASTS, AND ISLANDS OF THE MARITIME PROV- INCES OF CANADA, AND TO THEIR SCENERY AND HISTORIC! ATTRACTIONS ; WITH THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL; ALSO, NEWFOUNDLAND AND THE LABRADOR COAST. With Four Maps and Four Flans, HmiH EDiTlON, REVISED AND ENLARGED. The time-taUes of the Provincial steamers are liable to change. Intend- ing tourists should twite to the agents of the International, Yarmouth, and Prince-Edward Island lines, at Boston, for their latest folders, showing times of sailing, excursion-rates, etc. BOSTON AND NEW YORK? ^ 33 S" A HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY. 1892. OOP-^BIGHT 1875 AND 1883, By JAMES K. OSGOOD & CO, 1885 AKD 1888, Bv TICKNOR & CO. 1891 AND 1892, By HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO. f\ V New Bi'uiiswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edvvavd Island. Foi' 8weetser's Maritime Pi'ovinces Guide J^ook. 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 «o°38 39 40 41 Digitized by tine Internet Archive in 2010 witii funding from Tine Library of Congress Iittp://www.arcliive.org/details/maritimeprovince01swee CONTENTS. PAGE I. Plan of Tour 1 II. Newfoundland and Labrador 2 III. Money and Travelling Expenses . .4 IV. Railways and Steamboats 4 V. Round-Trip Excursions . . . . . ' . . ' . . .5 VI. Hotels 7 VII. Language 7 VIII. Climate and Dress 8 IX. Fishing ' 8 Z. Miscellaneous Notes . 9 NEW BRUNSWICK. route General Notes . . . . 13 1. St. John 15 2. The Environs of St. John .22 1. Lily Lake. Marsli Road 22 2. Mispeck Road. Suspension Bridge .23 3. Carleton .24 3. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. Passamaquoddy Bay . 25 4. Grand Manan 28 78. Campobello ............ 30a 5. St. John to St. Andrews and St. Stephen. Passamaquoddy Bay 30 1. St. George. Lalie Utopia 32 2. St. Andrews. Chamcook Mountain 33 3. St. Stephen. Schoodic Lakes 35 6. St. Andrews and St. Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton . 36 7. St. John to Bangor 37 8. St. John to Fredericton. The St. John River .... 39 1. Kennebecasis Bay .40 2. Belleisle Bay 42 3. Fredericton . . . .44 4. Fredericton to Miramichi 46 9. Washademoak Lake . . . .47 10. Grand Lake . . ■ 48 11. Fredericton to Woodstock 49 12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St. John River ... 51 13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup . . . .53 CONTENTS. ROUTE PAGE 1. Tobiqne to Bathurst 54 2. The St. John to the Restigouche . • . . . . .56 3. The Madawaska District ........ 57 4. The Maine Woods. Temiscouata Lake 58 14. St. John to Shediac 59 15. The Bay of Chaleur and the North Shore of New Brunswick 60 1. Chatham to Shippigan 61 2. Shippigan. Bay of Chaleur 64 3. Bathurst to Caraquette 66 4. Campbellton to St. Flavie 69 16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax ...... 70 1. Quaco. Sussex Vale 71 2. Albert County. Moncton to Quebec 72 3. Dorchester. SackviUe » . . 73 NOVA SCOTIA. General Notes 75 17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax 78 1. Tantramar Marsh. Chignecto Peninsula 79 2. North Shore of Nova Scotia ........ 81 18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley ... 83 1. Annapolis Royal 85 2. The Annapolis Valley 88 3. Kentville to Chester , 90 19. Halifax 93 20. The Environs of Halifax . 100 1. Bedford Basin. Point Pleasant 100 21. The Basin of Minas. Halifax to St. John 101 1. Advocate Harbor and Cape d'Or 103 2. The Basin of Minas 104 22. The Land of Evangeline . . , 107 23. Annapolis Royal to Clare and Yarmouth 112 1. The Clare Settlements 113 2. The Tusket Lakes and Archipelago 115 24. DiGBY Neck 116 25. Halifax to Yarmouth. The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia . 117 1. Cape Sambro. Lunenburg . 118 2. Liverpool 120 3. Shelburne 121 4. Cape Sable 123 26. Halifax to Yarmouth, by the Shore Route . . . . 126 1. Chester. Mahone Bay 127 2. Chester to Liverpool 128 27. The Liverpool Lakes 129 28. Halifax to Tangier 131 29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia. 133 80. Sable Island 134 CONTENTS. vii route page 31. St. John and Halifax to Pictou 136 32. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape Breton 138 CAPE BRETON. General Notes 141 33. The Strait of Canso 142 34. Arichat and Isle Madame 145 35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, Cape Breton .... 146 36. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton 148 37. The East Coast of Cape Breton, The Sydney Coal-Fields . 152 38. The Fortress of Louisbourg 154 39. The North Shore of Cape Breton '158 1. St. Anne's Bay 158 2. St. Paul's Island 160 40. The Bras d'Or Lakes .161 1. Baddeck 162 2. Great Bras d'Or Lake 164 3. The Bras d'Or to Halifax 166 41. Baddeck to Mabou and Port Hood 167 1. St. Patrick's Channel. Whycocomagh 167 42. The West Coast of Cape Breton . . . . . . . 168 1. Port Hood. Mabou 169 2. Margaree. The Lord's Day Gale . . • ^ • • • . 170 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. General Notes 172 43. Shediac to Summerside and Charlottetown .... 174 1. The Northumberland Strait 174 44. Pictou to Prince Edward Island 175 45. Charlottetown 175 1. Environs of Charlottetown 177 46. Charlottetown to Summerside and Tignish. The Western Shores of Prince Edward Island 177 1. Rustico. Summerside 178 47. Charlottetown to Georgetown 180 48. Charlottetown to Sour is 182 49. The Magdalen Islands 183 50. St. Pierre and Miquelon 185 NEWFOUNDLAND. General Notes 187 51. Halifax to St. John's, Newfoundland 188 52. St. John's, Newfoundland 189 53. The Environs of St. John's 195 1. Portugal Cove. Logie Bay. Torbay 195 54. The Strait Shore of Avalon. St. John's to Cape Race . 196 viii CONTENTS. ROUTE PAGE 1. The Grand Banks of Newfoundland 199 55. St. John's to Labrador. The Northern Coast of Newfoundland 200 1. Bonavista Bay 203 2. Twillingate. Exploits Island 205 56. St. John's to Conception Bay ........ 206 57. Trinity Bay 208 58. The Bay of Notre Dame 210 59. Placentia Bay 212 60. The Western Outports. St. John's to Cape Ray . . . .213 1. Fortune Bay 214 2. Hermitage Bay . ... 215 61. The French Shore. Cape Ray to Cape St. John , . . 216 1. The Interior of Newfoundland 218 2. The Strait of Belle Isle 220 LABRADOR. General Notes 228 62. The Atlantic Coast, to the Moravian Missions and Greenland 224 1. The Moravian Missions 226 63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle . . . 227 64. The Labrador Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence . . . 229 1. The Mingan Islands 231 2. The Seven Islands 232 65. Anticosti . 234 PROVINCE OP QUEBEC. General Notes 235 66. PiCTOU TO Quebec. The Coasts of Gaspe 238 1. Paspebiac 240 2. Perce 242 3. Gaspe 244 67. The Lower St. Lawrence 246 1. Father Point. Rimouski 250 2. Bic. Trois Pistoles .251 3. St. Anne de la Pocatiere. L'Islet 253 68. Quebec 255 1. Durham Terrace 259 2. Jesuits' College. Basilica * . . 261 3. Seminary 262 4. Laval University. Parliament Building 263 5. Hotel Dieu. Around the Ramparts 266 6. The Lower Town 271 69. The Environs of Quebec 276 1. Beauport. Montmorenci Palls 276 2. Indian Lorette 278 8. Chateau Bigot. Sillery 280 4. Point Levi, Chaudifere Falls . . 282 PREFACE. The chief object of the Handbook to the Maritime Provinces is to supply the place of a guide in a land where professional guides cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining the greatest possible amount of pleasure and information while passing through the most interesting portions of Eastern British America. The St. Lawrence Provinces have been hitherto casu- ally treated in books which cover wider sections of country (the best of which have long been out of print), and the Atlantic Provinces have as yet received but little attention of this kind. The present guide-book is the first which has been devoted to their treatment in a combined form and according to the most approved principles of the European works of similar purpose and character. It also includes descriptions of the remote and interesting coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, which have never before been mentioned in works of this character. The Handbook is designed to enable travellers to visit any or all of the notable places in the Maritime Provinces, with economy of money, time, and temper, by giving lists of the hotels with their prices, descriptions of the various routes by land and water, and maps and plans of the principal cities. The letter-press contains epitomes of the histories of the cities and the ancient settlements along the coast, statements of the principal scenic attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, and statistics of the chief industries of the included Provinces. The brilliant and picturesq^ue records and traditions of the early French and Scottish colonies, and the heroic exploits of the Jesuit missionaries, have received special attention in connection with the localities made famous in those remote days ; and the remarkable legends and mythology of the Micmac Indians are iv PREFACE. incorporated with the accounts of the places made classic by them. The naval and military operations of the wars which centred on Port Royal, Louisbourg, and Quebec have been con- densed from the best authorities, and the mournful events which are commemorated in " Evangeline " are herein analyzed and recorded. The noble coast-scenery and the favorite summer- voyages with which the northern seas abound have been de- scribed at length in these pages. The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the European Handbooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which have made his works the most popular in Europe, have also been attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or verified from the Editor's personal experience, after many months of almost incessant travelling for this express purpose. But infallibility is impossible in a woi^k of this nature, especial- ly amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, and hence the Editor would be grateful for any bona fide cor- rections or suggestions with which either travellers or residents may favor him. The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the greatest care, and will doubtless prove of material service to all who may trust to their directions. They are based on the system of lettered and numbered squares, with figures corresponding to similar figures, attached to lists of the chief public buildings, hotels, churches, and notable objects. The hotels indicated by asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor to be the most comfortable and elegant. M. F. SWEETSER, Care of Houghton, Miffiin Sf Co. 4 Park St., Boston. CONTENTS. IX ROXJTE 70. Quebec to La Bonne Ste. Anne .... 1. The Falls of St. Anne 71. The Isle of Orleans 72. Quebec to Cacouna and the Saguenay River 1. St. Paul's Bay 2. Jlurray Bay 3. Cacouna 73. The Saguenay River 1. Tadousac 2. Chicoutimi 3. Ha Ha Bay. Lake St. John .... 4. Eternity Bay. Cape Trinity .... 74. Quebec to Montreal. The St. Lawrence River 75. Montreal 1. Victoria Square. Notre Dame 2. The Gesi\. St. Patrick's Church 3. Cathedral. McGill University. Great Seminary 4. Hotel Dieu. Mount Royal. Victoria Bridge . The Environs of Montreal 1. Around the Mountain. Sault au Recollet . 2. Lachine Rapids. Caughnawaga 3. Belreil Mt. St. Anne 76. Index to Localities Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions Index to Quotations Index to Railways and Steamboats . List of Authorities Consulted page . 283 286 296 297 299 300 301 303 305 309 311 313 314 316 318 318 319 320 321 332 333 334 334 MAPS. 1. Map of the Maritime Provinces. 2. Map of the Acadian Land : between pages 106 and 107. 3. Map of the Saguenay River : opposite page 297. 4. Map of the Lower St. Lawrence River : opposite page 297. PLANS OP CITIES. 1. St. John : between pages 14 and 15. 2. Halifax : between pages 92 and 93. 3. Quebec : between pages 254 and 255. 4. MoNTEEAL : between pages 808 and 309. ABBREVIATIONS. N. — North, Northern, etc. S. — South, etc. E. — East, etc. W. — West, etc. N. B. — New Brunswick. N. S. — Nova Scotia. N. F. — Newfoundland. Lab. — Labrador. P. E. I. — Prince Edward Island. P. Q. — Province of Quebec. M. — mile or miles. r. — right. 1.— left. ft. — foot or feet. hr. — hour. min. — minute or minutes. Asterisks denote objects deserving of special attention. THE MARITIME PROVINCES. INTRODUCTION. I. Plan of Tour. The most profitable course for a tourist in the Lower Provinces is to keep moving, and his route should be made to include as many as pos- sible of the points of interest Avhich are easily accessible. There are but few places in this region where the local attractions are of sufficient inter- est to justify a prolonged visit, or where the accommodations for stran- gers are adapted to make sach a sojourn pleasant. The historic and scenic beauties are not concentrated on a few points, but extend through- out the country, aflfording rare opportunities for journeys whose general course may be replete with interest. The peculiar charms of the Mari- time Provinces are their history during the Acadian era and their noble coast scenery, — the former containing some of tlie most romantic episodes in the annals of America, and tlie latter exhibiting a marvellous blending of mountainous capes and picturesque islands with the blue northern sea. And these two traits are intertwined througliout, for there is scarce a promontory that has not ruins or legends of French fortresses, scarce a bay that has not heard the roaring broadsides of British frigates. The remarkable ethnological phenomena here presented are also cal- culated to awaken interest even in the lightest minds. The American tour- ist, accustomed to the homogeneousness of the cities and rural communi- ties of the Republic, may here see extensive districts inhabited by French- men or by Scottish Highlanders, preserving their national languages, cus- toms, and amusements unaffected by the presence and pressure of British influence and power. Of such are the districts of Clare and Madawaska and the entire island of Cape Breton, All these phases of provincial life and history afford subjects for study or amusement to the traveller, and may serve to make a summer voyage both interesting and profitable. Travelling has been greatly facilitated, within a few years, by the es- tablishment of railways and steamship routes throughout the Provinces. From the analyses of these lines, given in the following pages, the tourist 1 A 2 INTRODUCTION. will be able to compute the cost of his trip, both in money and in time. The following tour would include a glimpse at the chief attractions of the country,, and will serve to convey an idea of the time requisite : — Boston to St. John ....... 1^ days. St. John 1 " St. John to Annapolis and Halifax . . . . 2 '* Halifax 1 " Halifax to Sydney 14 " The Bras d'Or Lakes 1 " Port Hawkesbury to Pictou, Charlottetown, and Shediac 2 " Shediac to Quebec (by steamer) , . . . . 4 " Quebec 3 " Quebec to Boston 1 " Failures to connect 3 " 21 days. To this circular tour several side-trips may be added, at the discretion of the traveller. The most desirable among these are the routes to Pas- samaquoddy Bay, the St. John Ptiver, the Basin of Minas (to Parrsboro'), from Halifax to Chester and Mahone Bay, Whycocomagh, or Louisbourg (in Cape Breton), and the Saguenay River. It may be advisable to go to Quebec by the Intercolonial Railway, taking a night and a day. If the tourist wishes to sojourn for several days or weeks in one place, the most eligible points for such a visit, outside of St. John and Halifax, are Fredericton, St. Andrews, Grand Manan, Grand Fall?, or Dalhousie, in New Brunswick; Annapolis, Wolfville, Parrsboro', or Chester, in Nova Scotia; Baddeck, in Cape Breton; and Charlottetown, in Prince Edward Island. At each of these villages are small but comfortable inns, and the surrounding scenery is attractive. 11. Newfoundland and Labrador. Extended descriptions of these remote northern coasts have been given in the following pages for the use of the increasing number of travellers who yearly pass thitherward. The marine scenery of Newfoundland is the grandest on the North Atlantic coast, and here are all the varied phe- nomena of the northern seas, — icebergs, the aurora borealis, the herds of seals, the desolate and lofty shores, and the vast fishing-fleets from wliich France and the United States draw their best seamen. English and American yachtsmen grow more familiar every year with these coasts, and it is becoming more common for gentlemen of our Eastern cities to embark on fishing-schooners and make the voyage to Labrador or the Banks. The tourist can also reach the remotest settlements on the Labrador INTRODUCTION. 3 coast by the steamship Hues from Halifax to St. John's, N. F., and thence to Battle Harbor. This route takes a long period of time, though the expense is comparatively light ; and the accommodations on the steam- ships beyond St. John's are quite inferior. A shorter circular tour may be made by taking the steamer from Halifax to St. John's, and at St. John's embarking on the Western Outports steamship, whicli coasts along the entire S. shore of the island, and runs down to Sydney, C. B., once a month. From Sydney the tourist can return to Halifax (or St. John, N. B.) by way of the Bras d'Or Lakes. The Western Outports steamship also visits the quaint French colony at St. Pierre and Miquelon fortnightly, and the traveller can stop off there and return directly to Halifax by the Anglo-French steamship, which leaves St. Pierre fort- nightly. Sea-Sichiess. The chief benefit to be derived on these routes is the invigoratiou of the bracing air of the northern sea. Persons who are liable to sea-sickness should avoid the Newfoundland trip, since rough weather is frequently experienced there, and the stewards are neither as numerous nor as dexterous as those on the transatlantic steamships. The Editor is tempted to insert here a bit of personal experience, showing how the results of early experiences, combined with the advice of veteran travellers, have furnished him with a code of rules which are useful against the mal clu mer in all its forms. During 28 days on the Mediterranean Sea and 45 days on the Canadian waters, the observance of these simple rules prevented sickness, although every condition of weather was expe- rienced, from the fierce simoom of the Lybian Desert to the icy gales of Labrador. The chief rule, to whicli the others are but corollaries, is, Don't think of your physical self. Any one in perfect health, who will busy himself for an hour in thinking about the manner in which his breath is inhaled, or in which his eyes perform their functions, will soon feel ill at ease in his lungs or eyes, and can only regain tranquillity by banishing the disturbing thoughts. Avoid, therefore, this gloomy and apprehensive self-contemplation, and fill the mind with bright and en- grossing themes, — the conversation of merry companions, the exciting vicissitudes of card-playing, or the marvellous deeds of some hero of ro- mance. Never think of your throat and stomach, nor think of thinking or not thinking of them, but forget that such conveniences exist. Keep on deck as much as possible, warmly Avrapped up, and inhaling the salty air of the sea. Don't stay in the lee of the fuimel, where the smell of oil is nauseating. And if you are still ill at ease, lie down in your state- room, with the port-hole slightly opened, and go to sleep. The tourist should purchase, before leaving Halifax, two or three lively novels, a flask of fine brandy, a bottle of pickled limes, and a dozen lemons. INTRODUCTION. » III. Money and Travelling Expenses. Dominion currency passes freely everywhere in Canada, also the bills of all the prominent banks of the upper and lower Provinces. United-States silver is accepted only in small sums, and then at a dis- count. United-States bills are accepted, but there has lately been some movement against taking them at par, as used to be the custom. IV. Kailways and Steamboats. The new-born railway system of the Maritime Provinces is being ex- tended rapidly on all sides, by the energy of private corporations and the liberality of the Canadian Government. The lines are generally well and securely constructed, on English principles of solidity, and are not yet burdened by such a pressure of traffic as to render travelling in any way dangerous. The cars are built on the American plan, and are suf- ficientl}^ comfortable. On all trains there are accommodations for smo- kers. Pullman cars were introduced on the Intercolonial Railway in 1874, and are regularly run there, and also on the Canadian Paoilic (formerly the New-Brunswick Railway). There are restaurants at convenient dis- tances on the lines, where the trains stop long- enough for i)aesengers to take their meals. The naiTow-gauge cars on the Prince Edward Island Railway will attract the attention of travellers, on account of their singular construction. The tourist has choice of three grades of accommodation INTRODUCTION. 5 on the chief raihrays, — Pullman car, first-class, and second-class. The latter mode of travelling is very uncomfortable. Good accommodations are given on the vessels which ply between Bos- ton and St. John and to Halifax and Prince Edward Island. The cabins of the Quebec steamships are elegantly fitted up, and are airy and spacious. The Annapolis, Minas, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland lines have comfortable accommodations, and the Yarmouth and North Shore ves- sels are also fairly equipped. The lines to the Magdalen Islands, St. Pierre, and along the Newfoundland and Labrador coasts are primarily intended for the transportation of freight, and for successful!}' encountering rough weather and heavy seas, and have small cabins and plain fare. The Sa- guenay steamers resemble the better class of American river-boats, and have fine accommodations. The Mail-Stages. — The remoter districts of the Provinces are visited by lines of stages. The tourist will naturally be deceived by the grandil- oquent titles of ''Royal Mail Stage," or "Her Majesty's Mail Route," and suppose that some reflected stateliness will invest the vehicles that bear such august names. In point of fact, and with but two or three exceptions, the Provincial stages are far from corresponding to such ex- pectations ; being, in rnost cases, the rudest and plainest carriages, some- times drawn by but one horse, and usually unprovided with covers. The fares, however, are very low, for this class of transportation, and a good rate of speed is usually kept up. 6 INTRODUCTION. V. Eound-Trip Excursions. During the summer and early autumn the railway p.nd steamship com- panies publish lists of excursions at greatly reduced prices. Information and lists of these routes may be obtained of the General Passenger Agent of the Boston & Maine R. R., Boston; the International Steamship Co., Boston; the Yarmouth Steamship Co., Boston; and the Boston, Halifax, and Prince-Edward Island Steamship Co., Boston. Travellers who prefer to go by railway, across the State of Maine, can send for the summer-excursion book of the Boston & Maine Railroad, or of the Maine Central Railroad. (Address the latter at Portland, Maine.) Small books are issued every spring by these companies, each giving sev- eral hundred combinations of routes, with their prices. They maj' be ob- tained on application, in person or by letter, at the above-mentioned oflfices. The excursion tickets are good during the season, and have all the privi- leges of first-class tickets. The following tours will serve to convey an idea of the pecuniary expense incurred in a trip from Boston through the best sections of the Maritime Provinces. INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP CO. Halifax Eound Trip jExcursion. --Boston to St. John by International Steamship Co.'s Steamers ; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy Steamers ; Aonapolis to Halifax by W. & A. Railway ; Halifax to St. John by Intercolonial Railway ; St. John to Boston by International Steamship Co.'s Steamers Fare, f 18. Three Provinces Excursloyi.— Boston to St. John by International Steam- ship Co.'s Steamers ; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy Steamers ; Annapolis to Halifax by W. & A. Railway ; Halifax to Pictou by Intercolonial Railway : Pic- tou to Charlottetown by P. E. I. Steamers ; Charlottetown to Summerside by P. E. I. Railway ; Summerside to Shediac by P. E. I. Steamers ; Shediac to St. John by Intercolonial Railway ; St. John to Boston by International Steamship Co.'s Steamers. Fare, § 22. JEasfport Excursion. — Boston to Eastport, and return, by International Steam- ship Co.'s Steamer. Fare, iS 7.50. St. John Excursion. — Boston to Eastport, and St. John, and return, by Inter- national Steamship Co.'s Steamer. Fare, .$ 8.50. The other companies have groups of excursions of equal variety and in- terest, and will be glad to send their books to applicants. The route-book of the Boston & Maine Raih-oad may be obtained by sending to the Genenil Passenger Agent, D. J. Flanders, Boston, cr apply- ing at the passenger ticket-office, Washington Street. INTRODUCTION. VI. Hotels. The hotels of the Maritime Provinces are far behind the age, and thereby the pleasure of a journey in this beautiful region is greatly lessened for the s^^baritic Americans. The general rates at the better ho- tels of the second-class is $ 2 a day; and tlie village inns and country tav- erns charge from $ 1 to $ 1.50, with reductions for boarders by the week. VII. Language. The English language will be found sutRcient, unless the tourist desires to visit the more rem.ote districts of Cape Breton, or the Acadian settle- ments. The Gaelic is probably the predominant language on Cape Breton, but English is also spoken in the chief villages and fishing-communities. In the more secluded farming-districts among the highlands the Gaelic tongue is more generally used, and the tourist may sometimes find whole families, not one of whom can speak English. In the villages along the Lower St. Lawrence, and especially on the North Shore, the French language is in common use. The relation of this language to the polite French speech of the present day is not clearly understood, and it is frequently stigmatized by Americans as "an unintelligible patois" This state- ment is erroneous. The Canadian French has borrowed from the Eng- lish tongue a few nautical and political terms, and has formed for itself words describing the peculiar phenomena and conditions of nature in the new homes of the people. The Indians have also contributed numerous terms, descriptive of the animals and their habits, and the operations of forest-life. But the interpolated words are of rare occurrence, and the language is as intelligible as when brought from the North of France, two centuries ago. It is far closer in its resemblance to the Parisian speech than are the dialects of one fourth of the departments of France. Trav- ellers and immigrants from Old France find no difficulty in conversing with the Lower-Canadians, and the aristocracy of Quebec speak as pure an idiom as is used in the Faubourg St. Germain. 8 INTRODUCTION. This language has an extensive and interesting literature, which in- cludes science, theology, history, romance, and poetry. It has also nnmerons newspapers and magazines, and is kept from adulteration by the vigilance of several colleges and a powerful university. It is used, co-ordinately with the English language, in the records and journals of the Dominion and Quebec Parh'aments, and speeches and pleadings in French ai'e allowable before those Parliaments and the cuurts of Quebec. Thus much to prove the substantial identity of the Lower-Canadian and French languages. The tourist who wishes to ramble through the an- cient French-Canadian districts will, therefore, get on very well if he has travelled much in Old France. VIII. Climate and Dress, The more northerly situation of the Maritime Provinces and their vicin- ity, on so many sides, to the sea, render the climate even more severe and uncertain than that of Nev/ England. The extremes of heat and cold are much farther apart than in the corresponding latitudes of Europe, and, as Marmier expresses it, this region " combines the torrid climate of southern i-egions with the severity of an hyperborean winter." During the brief but lovely summer the atmosphere is clear and balmy, and vegetation flourishes amain. The winters are long and' severe, but ex- ercise no evil effect on the people, nor restrain the merry games of the youths. Ever since Knowles sent to England his celebrated dictum that the climate of Nova Scotia consisted of " nine months of winter and three months of fog," the people of Britain and America have had highly ex- aggerated ideas of the severity of the seasons in the Provinces. These statements are not borne out by the facts ; and, though Nova Scotia and New Brunswick have not the mild skies of Virginia, their coldest weather is surpassed by the winters of the Northwestern States. The meteorological tables and the physical condition of the people prove that the climate, though severe, is healthy and invigorating. The time has gone by for describing these Provinces as a gloomy land of frozen Hyper- boreans, and for decrying them with pessimistic pen. The worst annoyance experienced by tourists is the prevalence of dense fogs, which sometimes sweep in suddenly from the sea and brood over the cities. In order to encounter such unwelcome visitations, and also to be prepared against fresh breezes on the open sea, travellers should be pro- vided with heavy shawls or overcoats, and woollen imderclothing should be kept at hand. IX. Fishing. All leases are sold at public auction, to the highest bidder, and as soon as vacant are again sokl. The Restigonche, Nepesiquit, and many other prin- cipal rivers will become vacant and be resold in March. 1892. Tiie leases on the Restigouche each cover 10 miles of river. Tiie lisliing is the best INTRODUCTION, 9 in the world, and the river navigable all summer. The scenery is unsur- passed. Hundreds of American ladies and gentlemen spend their June and July on the Restigouche, Nepesiquit, Southwest iNIiramichi, Tobique, or other rivers. Man}' of them have handsome tishing-lodges and club-houses. In 1890 there were 1,480 salmon, averaging 23 lbs., killed by anglers on the Restigouche; and 620, averaging 12 lbs., on the Nepesiquit. The gov- ernment leases only cover those portions of the river which are unfjranted, and there are granted lots in many of the stretches leased in these cases. The granted portions are excepted from the leases, and the tishing is in the grantees, many of whom have sold to private parties or clubs. Some still own them, and either lease them by the day or for short terms. There is first-class salmon-fishing on the Southwest Miramichi. The waters are owned by private individuals. Some of these waters are for sale in fee simple. Permits by the day or for the season can always be had on reason- able terms on application to the Fishery Commissioner of New Brunswick (at Fredericton), who is prepared at all times cheerfully to give information to persons desiring it as to the fishing and hunting in any of the rivers or forests. Parties desirous of fishing should correspond well in advance, that selection of river ma}' be made and guides secured. All the rivers may be conveniently reached by rail from Fredericton, and the best of tackle and supplies can be had there at reasonable figures. The best fishing on most rivers is about the 15th of June. Lessees are bound by condition of their leases to place as many guardi- ans on leased premises. as required by Surveyor General, — usually one on each leased lot. The lessees on the principal rivers are mostly Americans, and the}' are always ready in their own interest to put on more guardians than are required. The Tobique River lease has been assigned to a club composed mostly of Philadelphia men. Hotel accommodation can be had at any of the towns where the railways strike the rivers; but anglers as- cending the river to fish must in most instances go by canoe, and camp on the river-banks. Each angler ought to have a canoe and two men to him- self. A canoe and two men costs $2.50 a day, with provisions. The men are good canoe-men and guides, and generally fair cooks. "The Game Fish of the Northern States and British Provinces," by Robert B. Roosevelt (published by Carleton, of New York, in 1865), contains an account of the salmon and sea-tront fishing of Canada and New Brunswick. The pursuit of sea-trout on the Lower St. Lawrence and Laval is described in pages 50-88 and -315-321; the Labrador rivers, pages 107-111 ; the Miramichi and Nepisiguit Rivers, pages 111-115 ; the Schoodic Lakes, pages 145-147. " Fishing in American Waters," by Genio C. Scott (published by Har- per and Brothers, 1869), contains practical directions to sportsmen, and graphic descriptions of fishing in the rivers of Nev/ Brunswick and Lower Quebec. " Frank Forester's Fish and Fishing of the United States and British 1* 10 INTRODUCTION. Provinces of North America," by H. W. Herbert (New York, 1850), is to a large extent technical and scientific, and contains but a few incidental allusions to the provincial fisheries. "The Pishing Tourist," by Cliarles Hallock (pnblislied by Harper and Brothers, 1873), contains about 100 pages of pleasant descriptions relat- ing to the Schoodic Lakes, the best trout and salmon streams of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Cape Breton, the Bay of Chaleur, the Sague- nay and Lower St. Lawrence, Anticosti, and Labrador. The principal Rafnion and trout streams in New Brunswick are leased by the Provincial Government at public auction. For particulars, address the Surveyor- General at Fredericton. IX. Miscellaneous Notes. The times of departure of the provincial steamships are liable to change every season. The tourist can find full particulars of the days of sailing, etc., on arriving at St. John, from the local and the Halifax newspa- pers. The names of the agents of these lines have also been given here- niafter, and turthei iniunuaaon may be obtained by writing to their addresses. Tlie custom-house formalities at the national frontiers depend less upon the actual laws than upon the men who execute them. The examination of baggage is usually conducted in a lenient manner, but trunks and packages are sometimes detained on account of the presence of too many Canadian goods. It is politic, as well as gentlemanly, for the tourist to afford the officers every facility for the inspection of his baggage. The people of the Provinces are generally courteous, and are willing to answer any civilly put questions. The inhabitants of the more remote districts are distinguished for their hospitality, and are kindly disposed and honest. The New-Brunswick Division of the Canadian Pacific Railway, originally a narrow-gauge road from Gibson, opposite Fredericton, to Edmundston, has absorbed all the lines, but one, in Western New Brunswick, and is now a standard-gauge road for its entire length. It reaches all the cities and towns in the St. John and St. Croix valleys, and has direct connection with the Intercolonial Railway at St. John, by means of the great steel cantilever bridge over the Falls. It is supplied with new rolling-stock, and now in point of comfort and the excellence oi its train service is the equal of anv road. There is a day and a night Pullman train between St. John and the West. Tickets can be purchased at Boston to either of the following points of interest: St. John, Frederic- ton, St. Andrews, St. Stephen and Calais, Woodstock, Grand Falls, aifd Edmundston. The Temiscouata Railway, in operation in the summer of 1888, gives a through route from Edmundston to the St. Lawrence at Riviere du Loup, whence the traveller may go by rail to Quebec, or by steamer to Tadousac, Saguenav, returning to Quebec. EOUTES FEOM BOSTON TO THE MAEITIME PEOVIKCES. 1. B]j Railway. The Boston cf Maine and Maine Central Railroad Lines form the usual mode of approach b}' land. Tlieir trains leave the terminal station in Boston, and run through to Bangor without change of cars. pLilhnan cars are attached to the through trains, and tickets are sold to nearly ail points in the Eastern Provinces. At Bangor passengers change cars, but remain in the hands of the Manie Central until Vanceboro at tlie inienia- tional boundary is reached, where the rails of the Canadian Pacific Rail- way begin. Between Boston and Portland this route traverses a peculiarly interesting country, with frequent glimpses of the sea; but the country be- tween Bangor and St. John is almost devoid of attractions, being for the most part through the forest, until Westtield is reached. For the last 20 M. there are many beautiful views over the St.-John River. "The Flying Yankee"' train makes the run from Boston to St. John (448 M.) in 14 hours, leaving Boston at 8 A. m. by the Boston & Maine Railro.'.d, and reaching St. John at 10 p. m., and Halifax at 9.30 a. m., next day. The Provincial Express morning train from Boston to St. John has through cars, without change at Bangor. The New-Brunswick Division of the Canadian Pacific Railway also con- nects with the Maine Central system, and runs through trains from St. John to Montreal, across the State of Maine, by way of Mattawamkeag and the Moosehead-Lake region. 2. By Stea^nship. The International Steamship Company despatches vessels three times weekly from June 15 to October 1, leaving Commercial Wharf, Boston, at 8.30 A.M., on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. They touch at Portland, \:'iirh is left at 5 p.m.; and aftei-wards they run along the Miine cn^t, calling at Eastport the next morning, and traversing Passamaquoddy Bay. They reach St. John in the afternoon. Fares, — from Boston to Eastport, S4; to St. John, $4.50. Another stanch vessel of this line plies regularly between Boston, Digby, and Annapolis (22 hours at sea). The Yarmouth Steamship Co. affords the most convenient route to visit the famous hunting and fishing grounds of the western counties of Nova Scotia. Their steamships leave Lewis Wharf, Boston, Tuesday and Fri- day, for Yarmouth, giving an exhilarating voyage of 17 hours across tb^ open sea. 12 FROM BOSTON TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. The Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island Steamship Line de- spatch vessels from Lewis Wharf, Boston, Wednesday noons. After reaching Halifax these steamships run N. E. along the Nova-Scotia coast, round Cape Canso, and traverse the picturesque Gut of Canso, They call at Pictou and then run across to Charlottetown. By leaving the vessel at Port Hawkesbur^'-, the tourist can easily reach the Bras d'Or and other parts of the island of Cape Breton. These vessels connect at Halifax with the railways for Windsor, etc., and the Newfoundland steamships ; -and Port Plawkesbury Avith the Bras d'Or steamers and the Cape-Breton Rail- way ; and at Pictou with the steamships of the Quebec S. S. Co., for Que- bec and Montreal. 3. Routes by toay of 3Iontreal and Quebec. Montreal may be reached by either the Central Vermont R. R., the Mon- treal & Boston Air Line (Passumpsic R. R.), or the Boston & Maine (Lowell Div.) Grand Trunk Lines. These routes are all described in Neio England: a Handboolc for Travellers. The most picturesque route from Quebec to the Maritime Provinces is hj the vessels of the Quebec Steamship Company, which leave every week for the eastern ports of Quebec and Nova Scotia, connecting with the local lines of travel. The Intercolonial Railway extends around from Quebec to St. John and Halifax. The Canadian Pacific Eailway runs from St. John, N. B., to Mon- treal, 481 M., in 17^ hours. The train leaving St. John at 3 p. m. reaches Moosehead Lake at H.15, Magog at 5. 30 A. m., and Montreal at 8.35 A. M. It follows the New-Brunswick Division to Vanceboro, and the Maine Central to Mattawamkeag, and then traverses the lonely and rugged wilderness of Maine for 144 M., entering the Province of Quebec near Lake Megantic. At Lennoxville, connection is made with the Passumpsic line; and at Sherbrooke the Quebec Central is met. The Quebec Central Railway runs N. from Sherbrooke along the St. Francis River and by Lake Aylmer and Black Lake, and the famous as- bestos mines of Tring. Thence it reaches the Chaudiere Vallej', and de- scends to the St. Lawrence. 4. Newfoundland. Passengers bound for the remoter East, for Newfoundland or Labrador, will find the best accommodations on the steamships of the Allan Line, which run from Halifax and Baltimore to St. John's, N. F. (and Ihence to Liverpool, etc.). The smaller vessels of the Red-Cross Line (from New- York) also run to St. John's. Further particulars about these lines and their accommodations, the days on wliich they depart for Boston, etc., may be fouuil in thcii* advertise- ments, which are grouped at the end of the book. There, also, may be found the names and addresses of the agents of the lines, from whom other information may be obtained, by letter or by personal application. The main question for the summer tourist will naturally be whether he shall go eastward by rail or by a short sca-voynge. MARITIME-PROVmCES HANDBOOK. NEW BRUNSWICK. The Province of New Brunswick is situated nearly in the centre of tlie North Temperate Zone, and is bounded by Maine and Quebec on the W., Quebec and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Northumberland Strait on the E., and Nova Scotia and the Bay of Fundy on the S. It is 140 M. long from E. to W., and 190 M. from N. to S., and contains 27,105 square miles. The direct coast-line (exclusive of indentations) is 410 M., which is nearly equally divided between the S. and E. shores, and is broken by many fine harbors. The Bay of Fundy on the S., and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., are of great size and com- mercial importance, — the former being 140 M. long by 30-50 M. wide; the latter being 90 M. long by 10 - 25 M. wide. The fisheries in the great bays and in the. Gulf are of immense value, employing many thousand men, and attracting large American fleets. They have furnished suste- nance to the people of the maritime counties, and have been the occasion of developing a race of skilful mariners. During the past 50 years 6,000 vessels have been built in this Province, valued at nearly $80,000,000. The lumber business is conducted on a vast scale on all the rivers, and the product amounts to several million dollars a year. The country is generally level, and is crossed by low ridges in the N. and W. Thei-e are numerous lakes, whose scenery is generally of a sombre and monotonous character. The interior is traversed by the rivers St. John, Restigouche, Miramichi, Petitcodiac, Nepisiguit, and Richibucto, which, with their numerous tributaries, afford extensive facilities for boat- navigation. The river-fisheries of New Brunswick are renowned for their variety and richness, and attract many American sportsmen. There are 14,000,000 acres of arable land in the Province, a great por- tion of which has not yet been brought into cultivation. The intervales of the rivers contain 60,000 acres, and are very rich and prolific, being fertilized by annual inundations. The chief agricultural products are wheat, buckwheat, barley, oats, potatoes, butter, and cheese : the value of the crops exceeding $5,000,000 a year. The climate is less inclement on the Bay of Fundy than farther inland. The mean temperature for the last ten years at St. John was, for the winter, 171°; spring, 37i°; summer, 58^; autumn, 441°. The thermom- 14 NEW BRUNSWICK. eter ranges between —22" and 87° as the extremes marked during the past ten years. The present domain of New Brunswick was formerl}^ occupied by two distinct nations of Indians. The Micmacs were an offshoot of the Algon- quin race, and inhabited all the sea-shore regions. The^^ were powerful and hardy, and made daring boatmen and fishermen. The Milicetes were from the Huron nation, and inhabited the St. John valley and the inland forests, being skilful in hunting and all manner of woodcraft. They were less numerous and warlike than the Micmacs. Both tribes had a simple and beautiful theology, to which was attached a multitude of quaint mythological legends. This region was included in the ancient domain of Acadie (or Acadia), which was gi'anted to the Sieur De Monts by King Henri IV. of France, in 1603. De Monts explored the St. John River, and planted an ephemeral colony on the St. Croix, in 1604. From 1635 until 1645 the St. John River was the scene of the feudal wars between La Tour and Charnisay. Oliver Cromwell sent an expedition in 1654, which occupied the country; but it was restored to France by Charles 11. in 1670. After the war of 1689 - 97, this region was again confirmed to France, and its^W. boundary was located at the St. George River, W. of Penobscot Bay^.' Meantime the shores of the Bay of Chaleur and the Gulf of St. Lawrence had been set- tled by the French, between 1639 and 1672. The New-Englanders invaded the Province in 1703, and in 1713 Acadia was ceded to England. The French limited the cession to Nova Scotia, and fortified the line of the j\Iissiguash River, to protect the domains to the N. In 1755 a naval expedition from Boston took these forts, and also the post at St. John; and in 1758 the whole Province was occupied by Anglo-American troops. In 1763 it was surrendered to England by the Treaty of Versailles. The Americans made several attacks on northern Acadia during the Revolutionary War, but were prevented from holding the country bv the British fleets at Halifax. At the close of the Avar many thousands of American Loyalists retired from the United States to this and the adjoin- ing countries. In 1784 New Brunswick was organized as a Province, having been previously dependent on Nova Scotia; and in 1788 the capi- tal was established at Fredericton. Immigration from Great Britain now commenced, and the forests began to give way before the lumbermen. In 1839 the Province called out its militia on the occasion of the boundary disputes with Maine; and in 1861 it was occupied with British troo]r« on account of the possibility of a war with the United States about the Trent affair. In 1865 New Brunswick refused, by a p pular vote, to enter the Dominion of Canada, but it accepted the plan the next year, and became a part of the Dominion in 1867. The population of New Briniswick -was 74,170 in 1824, 154,000 in 1810, 285,777 in 1871, 321,2o;i in 1881, and ;321,2i]4 in 1891. WEST SIDE. 29. Cantilever R. R. Bridge . W. Marsli Bridjre 31. Suspension Bridge . . . 32. Reed's Point . . . . . 33. Negrotown Point . . . City Hall . . Market . . . Martello Tower New Victoria . Y. M. C.A. . . 9. Rink lU. Marine Ho.spital 11. City Hospital . 12. Wiggins Asylum 13. Cemetery . . . 14. King's Square . 15. Queen's Square . Hi. Cathedral . . . 17. Trinity Church 18. St. Paul's . . . 19. St. John's . . . 211. St. Andrew's. . 21. Intercolonial and . F. 2 . D. 4 . F. 2 . D. 4 . E. 3 . E. 3 . D. 4 E. 2, 3 ST. JOHN. Route 1. 15 1. St. John. Arrival from the Sea. — Soon after passing Negro Head, the steamer runs in by Partridge Island, the round and rocky guai-d of the harbor of St. John. Its precipitous sides are seamed with deep clefts and narrow chasms, and on the upland are seen the Quarantine Hospital, the buildings of the steam fog-horn and the light- house, and the ruins of a cliff battery. On the 1. is the bold headland of Negrotown Point, crowned by dilapidated earthworks. The course now leads in by the Beacon- light (1. side), with the Martello Tower on Carleton Heights, and the high-placed St. Jude"s Church on the 1. In front are the green slopes and barracks of the Mili- tary Grounds, beyond which are the populous hills of St. John. Hotels. — The Royal Hotel, on King Street, and the Hotel Dufferin, at the cor- ner of King Square and Charlotte Street, are comfortable houses, charging $3-3.50 a day. The New Victoria is on Princess Street. The Clifton, Victoria, and Clar- endon are smaller houses. Amusements. — Theatrical performances and other entertainments are fre- quently given at the handsome new Music Hall, on Union Street. Lectures and concerts are given in the hall of the Mechanics' Institute, near the head of Germain Street. KeatliJig-Kooui-S. — The Young Men's Christian Association, on Charlolte St., near King Square ; open from 9 a. m. until 10 P. M. The Mechanics' Institute, near the head of Germain St., has an extensive variety of British papers on file. Carriages. — For a course within the city, 30c. for one passenger, 10c. for each additional one. For each half-hour, 50c. If the river is crossed by ferry the pas- senger pays the toll, which is, for a double carriage, 15c. each way. Street-Cars run from Market Square through Dock and Mill Sts., to the ter- minus of the river steamboat-lines, at Indiantown ; and to Reed's Point and else- where. Railways. — The New-Brunswick Division of the Canadian Pacific Railway runs W. to Van -eboro (92 M.), connecting for all points in Maine, and for Boston and New York, and also for Quebec, 3Iontrfal, and the West. It also connects up the St. -John Valley, by way of Fredericton, with the St. -Lawrence Valley; and down the St. -Croix Valley, with St. Stephen and St Andrews. The Shore Line runs to St. Stephen direct. The Intercolonial Railway runs E. to Shediac, Truro, and Halifax (276 M.), and to Quebec. Steamsliips. — The International Steamship Com- pany despatch their sea worthy vessels from St. John f')i- Hoston. touching at East- port and Portland, and connecting wihh steamers for St Andrews, St. Stephen, Calais, and Grand Manan. In Jan. and Keb. they leave St. .John on Thursdays; from March to July, and from Sept. 22 to .]-u\ , they leave on Mondays and Thurs- days : and July, Aug., and early Sept., on Monday, VV'ednesday, and Friday. Sail- ing time, 7.25a.m. Fare to Boston, ."$ 4.-50 Time, St. John to Eastport, 4 hrs. ; to Ponlaud, 1'.) hrs.; to Boston, 27 hrs. The Annapolis steamers cross the Bay of Fundy to Digby and Annapolis several times weekly, at 7.30a.m., connecting at An- napolis with the railway for Halifax. The steamers of the Union Line leave Indiantown daily at 9 A. M., for Frederic- ton and the intermediate bindings. Steamboats leave St John for Washademoak Lake, Grand Lake, and Belle Isle Bay (Hatfield's Point) ; for Spencer's Island, Parrsboro Pier, Kingsport, and Hantsport, on the Basin of Minas, every Thursday ; for Weym^iuth, N. S., every Wednesday ; for Eastport, Campobello, and Grand Manan, every Tuesday; lor Eastport, Bat H^irbor, and New York, every Tuesday ; for Eastport, Rockland, Cottage City (Mass.), and New York, every Tuesday. The Carleton ferry-steameis leave the foot of i>rincess St. every 15 minute* until 9.30 P.M. Fare, 3c.; for one-horee carriages, 9c.; for two-horse cai-riages, 15 c. The Clifton makes trips from Indiaucowu to Moss Uien, CUlcoa, aud Hampton, up the beautiful Kenaebeca.iiS (see pages 2:^ and 7ij. 16 Route 1. ST. JOHN. St. John, the chief city of the Province of New Brunswick and the commercial metropolis of the Bay of Fundy, occupies a commanding position at the mouth of the St. John River. From its favorable situation for the purposes of commerce it has been termed "the Liverpool of Canada." The ridge upon which St. John is built is composed of solid rock, through which streets have been cut at great expense ; and the plan of the streets is regular, including a succession of rectangular squares. The city is one of the chief ship-owning ports of the British Empire, and aspires to be the winter-port of Canada. It has 39,000 inhabitants in the South End (old St. John), the North End (formerly Portland), and the West Side (Carle- ton). Lieut.-Gov. Sir Leonard Tilley dwells in Carleton House. Among the more noticeable modern buildings are the Wesleyan "Cathedral" and the Queen-Square Church ; St. Andrew's, on the site of the Old Kirk, and St. David's, Presbyterian churches with fine stained-glass windows; the handsome stone edifice of the Union Club, on Germain Street ; and the In- tercolonial Railwaj'- station, the finest in Canada east of Montreal. The steel cantilever bridge, over the falls of the St. John River, belongs to a company, and cost over $600,000. Over this great engineering work the railway from the westward enters St. John and the Intercolonial station. The harbor is good, and is kept free from ice by the high tides of the Bay of Fundy and the sweeping current of the St. John River. It is usually well filled with shipping, and the shores are lined with wharves and mills. St. John has 41 churches, 4 banks, and 4 daily and several weekl}' papers. King Street is the main business street of the cit}', and runs from the harbor across the peninsula to Courteuay Bay. All the principal shops are on this street, between the harbor and King Square, and along Prince William St., wliich intersects it near the water. At the foot of the street is the Marlcei Slip, into which the light packet-boats and produce-vessels from the adjacent rural counties bring wood and provisions for the use of the city. At low tide, these vessels are, for the most part, left to hold themselves up on the muddy flats. At this point landed the weary and self-exiled American Loyalists, in 1783, and founded the city of St. John. The rather dreary breadth of King St. is occupied in its lower part by wagoners and unemployed workmen. From this point the street ascends a steep hill, passing the chief retail shoos, and several banks and hotels, with numerous fine buildings on the rebuilt disti-ict. King Square is an open space of about 3 acres in ai'ea, studded with trees, and adorned in the centre with a fountain. Before the great fire, its entrance was adonnMl with a prt'lciiiions tviuniplial arch, erected in honor of Prince Arthur's visit, and all crwai-ils ulilized for sustaining the fire-alarm bell. The City Market House is on the E., and exhibits the products of this region on well-arranged stalls. A few steps N. W. of the Square (on Charlotte St. ) is the handsome building of the Young Men's Christian Association, containing a large hall, gymnasium, parlors, and class-rooms. The library and readmg-room are open daily (except Sunday) from 9 A. M. to 10 p. M., and strangers are welcomed. The building cost $38,000, and ST. JOIIX. ' Route 1. 17 was dedicated in 1S72, but subsequently gave signs of instability, and has since been strengthened at considerable expense. The County Court House and Jail are at the S. E. corner of King Square, and are antiquated and homely stone buildings. To the E. is the Old Burying- Ground, con- taining the graves of the pioneers of the province, with epitaphs iu many cases quaint and interesting. Trinity Church extends Irom Germain St. to Charlotte St., near Prin- cess St., and is the finest church-building in the INIaritime Provinces, being massively constructed of gray stone, with rambling connections, and a very striking interior. Occupying a conspicuous position near the crest nf tlie hill, it is visible for a great distance. The first church on this site was built in 1788, and contained mural tablets and the Roj-al Arms from the Old State House, Boston, brought by the Loyalists in 178ci. I'liJis venerable building was destroyed in the great tire of 1877. Not far from Trinity is the Masonic Temple, a large and costly new edifice of brick. The publishing house of the McMillans is on an adjacent street, with its printing-office and book-store. By ascending the third street (Queen) to the 1., Queen Square is reached, — a well-kept park surrounded with dwelling-houses. A short dis- tance to the E., on St. James St., is the Wiggins Mcde Orphan Institu- tion, a building in Gothic architecture, of red and gray sandstone. Tt is the most elegant and symmetrical structure of its size in the Prov- ince, and cost over $ 100,000, but is only adequate to the accommodation of 30 orphans. The Marine Hospital is in this vicinity. A short walk out Sydney St. or Caermarthen St. leads to the Military Grounds, on the extreme S. point of the peninsula. Here is a spacious parade-ground, which is now used only by the cricket and base-ball clubs, Avith a drill-shed which will hold 2,000 soldiers. These grounds were formerly occupied by large detachments from the British army, whose ofScers were a desired acquisition to the society of the city, while the mili- tary bands amused the people by concerts on Queen Square. Prince William Street runs S. from Market Square to Reed's Point, and is one of the chief thoroughfares of the city, containing several hotels and some of the largest shops. Where it crosses Princess St., the Carleton ferry is seen to the r. The * Post-OfHce is an elegant building of gray sandstone, at the corner of Princess St. ; opposite which is the new City Hall, a handsome stone building. The Savings Bank, the Bank of New Brunswick, and other institutions, are luxuriously domiciled in this vi- cinity. The great fire of 1877, which destroyed several millions' worth of property in St. John, swept this district clean, and many elegant new buildings have since arisen. The * Custom House is of creamy Dorches- ter sandstone, costing .$250,000, with iron roofs and fire-proof floors, and two tall towers for the time-ball, the shipping signals, and the storm- drum. It contains several of the provincio-national offices, and a storm- signal station which receives warnings from " Old Probabilities " at Wash- 18 Route 1. ST. JOHN. ington and Toronto. The street ends at ReecVs Point, the headquarters of several lines of coasting-steamers, whence may be seen the Breakwater, W. of the Military Grounds. At the N. end of Germain St. is the old Stone Church, a sanctuary of the Episcopalians under the invocation of St. John. Its square stone tower is visible for a long distance, on account of the elevation of the site on which it stands. Nearly opposite is the brick Calvin Church (Presby- terian); and in the sarrie vicinity is the classic wooden front of the Me- chanics' Institute, which has a large hall. The reading-room is supplied with Canadian and British newspapers, and the library contains about 7,000 volumes (open from 2^ to 5 o'clock). The Roman Catholic * Cathedral is situated on Waterloo St., and is the largest church in the Province. It is constructed of marble and sand- stone, in pointed architecture, and has a tall and graceful spire. The interior is in a style of the severest simplicity, the Gothic arches of the clere-story being supported on plain and massive piers. The windows are of stained glass, and are very brilliant and rich. The chancel and transept windows are large and of fine design ; a rose window is placed over the organ-loft ; and the side windows represent Saints Bernard, Dominic, Ambrose, Jerome, Mark, Matthew, Andrew, Benedict, I'rancis, John, Luke, Augustine, and Gregory. The building is 200 ft. long, and 110 ft. wide at the transepts. The Bisho2)''s Palace is the fine sandstone building towards Cliff St., beyond which is the extensive building of the Orjihan Asylum, fronting on Cliff St. On the other side of the Cathedral is the plain brick building of the Nunnery. The visitor should notice, over the Cathedral portal adjacent to the Nunnery, the great marble bas-relief of the Last Supper (after Leonardo Da Vinci's painting at Milan), From this point Waterloo St. descends to the Marsh Bridge, at the head of Courtenay Bay. By ascending Cliff St. for a short distance, a point may be reached from which are seen the Valley, with its churches and streets, and the embowered villas on Mount Pleasant, over which rises the Academy of the Sacred Heart (once Read's Castle). Noble views of the Bay of Fundy and the St. John River and its blue highland walls are gained from the estate of Mr. J. Murray Kay (now of Brookline, Mass.). The General Public Hospital is situated on a bold rocky knoll wliicli overlooks the Marsh Valley, and is entered from Waterloo St. It consists of a large brick building and accommodates 80 patients. The structure pertains to the city, and was erected in 1865 at a cost of $ 54,000. Directly below the precipitous sides of the knoll on which it is built is the broad Marsh, covei-ed with houses, and extending on the r. to Courtenay Bay. The geologists entertain a plausible theory that in remote ages the St. John River flowed down this valley from the Kenne- becasis to the sea, until finally the present channel through the Narrows was opened by some convulsion of nature. ST. JOHN. Route 1. 19 That suburb wliich is known as the Valley lies between the rocky hills of the city proper and the line of Mount Pleasant, It is reached from King Square by Charlotte and Cobourg Streets, and contains the tracks and station of the Intercolonial Railway. The most prominent object in the Valley is St. Paul's Church (Episcopal), a graceful wooden edifice with ti-ansepts, a clere-story, and a tall sp're. The windows are of stained glass. The brick church of St, Stephen and the Owen's Art School with its pic- ture-gallery are also situated in the Valley, and the road to Lily Lake di- verges to the r. from the latter. Fai-ther to the E., on the City Road, is the Victoria Skatinrj Eink, a round wooden building, 160 ft. in diameter, covered with a domed roof. Lansdowne Rink and the Palace liink are famous resorts for curlers and skaters, on Charlotte Street, The site of St. John was the Menagwes of ancient Micmac tradition, where the divine Glooscap once liad his liome. Hence, during liis absence, his attendants were carried away by a powerful evil magician, who lied with them to Grand Manan, Cape Breton, and Newfoundland, where lie was pursued by Glooscap, who rode much of the way on the hacks of whales which he called in from the deep sea. Passing through Cape Breton, he at length reached the dark Newfoundland shores, ■where he assumed such a stature that the clouds rolled about his head- The evil- doing wizard was soon found and put to death and the servants of Glooscap were set free. The site of St. John was discovered by Champlain and De Monts, on St. John's Day (June 24), 1804, but was not occupied for 30 years after. Claude de la Tour, a Huguenot noble, was one of the-earliest of the French adven- turers in this region, and received a grant of all Acadia from Charles I. of England. After his repulse and humiliation (see Route 25), the French government divided Acadia into three provinces, placing tliere as governors, M. Denys, Razilly, and the young and chivalrous Charles de St. Estienne, Lord of La Tour (son of Claude). Denys contented himself with the ocean-fisheries from Canso and Cape Breton. Razilly soon died, leaving his domain to his kinsman Charles de Menou, Sieurd'Aul- nay Charnisay, who was also related to Cardinal Richelieu. D'Aulnay and La Tour began to quarrel about the boundaries of their jurisdictions, and the former em- ployed a powerful influence at the Court of France to aid his cause. Louis XIII. finally ordered him to carry La Tour to France, in chains, and open war ensued between these patrician adventurers. La Tour had erccte I a fort at St. John in lii34, whence he carried on a lucrative fur-trade with the Indians. In 1643 this stronghold was attacked by D"Aulnay with six vessels, but La Tour escaped on the ship Cleme.nt, leaving his garrison to hold the works. He entered Boston Harbor ■with 140 Huguenots of La Rochelle, and sought aid from Massachusetts against the Catholic forces which were besieging him. The austere Puritans referred to the Bible to see if they could find any precedent for such action, but found no certain response from that oracle. "On the one hand, it was said that the speech of the Prophet to Jehoshaphat, in 2d Chronicles xix. 2, and the portion of Solomon's Proverbs contained in chap, xxvi, 17th verse, not only discharged them from any obligation, but actually forbade them to assist La Tour; while, on the other hand, it was agreed that it was as lawful for them to give him succor as it was for Joshua to aid the Gibeonites against the rest of the Canaanites, or for Jehoshaphat to aid Jehoram against Moab, in which expedition Elishawas present, and did not reprove the King of Judah." But when they had assured themselves that it would bo allowable f r them to aid the distressed nobleman, they sent such a fleet that D'Aul- nay's forces were quickly scattered, and the siege was raised. Two years later, while La Tour was absent, D'Aulnay again attacked the fort, but was handsomely repulsed (with a loss of 33 men) by the little garrison, headed by Madame La Tour. Some months later he returned, and opened a regular siege on the landward side (the fort was in Carleton, near Navy Islmd) After three days of fighting a treach- erous Swiss sentry admitted the enemy into the works ; and even then Madame La Tour led her troops so gallantly that the victor gave her her own terms. These 20 Route 1. ST. JOHN. terms, however, were shamefully violated, and the garrison was massacred before her face. Three weeks afterward, she died of a broken heart. La Tour came back to St. John some years later, and found that D'Aulnay was dead, whereupon he effectually recaptured his old domain by marrying the widow of the conqueror (1653). D'Aulnay died in 1650, having spent 800,000 livres in Acadia, and built 5 fortresses, 2 seminaries, and several churches. He had several sons, all of whom entered the French army, and were slain in the service. In 1690 a sharp engagement took place in St. John harbor, between the French frigate Union and two English vessels. The former had entered the harbor bearing the Chevalier de Villebou, and was taken at a disadvantage. After a severe cannon- ade, the Union hauled down her colors. Villebon soon descended the river with a party of Indians and attacked the ships, but without success. In 1696, while the Chevalier de Yillebon governed Acadia from the upper St. John and hurled de- structive Indian bands upon New England, Massachusetts sent three men-of-war to blockade the mouth of the river and cut off his supplies. They were soon attacked by D'lberville's French frigates, and made a desperate resistance. But the New- port, 24, was unable to withstand the heavy fire of the Profond, and soon lay dis- masted and helpless. After her surrender the other American vessels escaped under cover of a thick fog. A new fleet from Boston soon afterwards overhauied the French frigates, cruising between Mount Desert and St. John, and captured the Profond, with M. de Villebon, the Governor of Acadia, on board. In 1701 the fort of St. John was dismantled by Brouillan : but in 1708 it was rebuilt, and had 4 bastions and 24 pieces of artillery In July, 1749, H. B. M. sloop-of-war Albany entered the harbor and drove away the French troops, lowering also the standard of France. The frigates Hound and York had a skirmish with the French here in 1750, and were ordered out of the port by Boishebert, the commandant of the fort. In 1755, four British war-vessels entered the harbor, and the French garrison demolished the fort, blew up the mag- azine, and retreated into the country. In 1758 Fort La Tour was still garrisoned by French soldiers, but, after a shoit siege by an Anglo-American force, the post was surrendered at discretion. Two years later, the place was visited by James Simonds, an adventurous New-Englander, who was, however, soon driven away by the Indians, " Catholics and allies of France.'" In 1764 he returned with a party of Massachusetts fishermen, and settled on the present site of the city, erecting de- fensive works on Portland Heights, under the name of Fort Howe. In 1775 a naval expedition of Ameiicaus from Machias entered the harbor and destroyed the old Prench fortifications (then called Fort Frederick), completing their work by plun- dering and bombarding the village. May 18, 1783, a British fleet arrived m the port bringing 5,000 of the self-styled ''United Empire Loyalists," Americans who ■were loyal to King George and could not or would not remain in the new Republic of the United States. From this day may be dated the growth of the city of St. John. New Brunswick was set off from Nova Scotia as a separate Province the next year, and in 1786 its first Legislative Assembly was convened here. In 1787 Trinity Church was founded ; in 1788 harbor-lights were established on Partridge Island, and in 1799 the Royal Gazette was started. In 1837 one third of the com- mercial portion of the city was burned, involving a loss of £250,000. During the boundary dispute with the State of Maine (1839-42) the citizens were all enrolled and drilled in military exercises, in preparation for a war on the borders. Large fortunes were made by the merchants during the Crimean war, when the British timber-market, which had depended largely on the Baltic ports for its supply, was by their closing forced to draw heavily on the Amei-ioan Provinces. The last his- toric event at St. John was its occvipation, in the winter of 1861. by several of the choicest regiments of the British army, among which were the Grenadier Guards, the Scotch Fusiliers, and other elite corps. After the peaceful solution of the Trent affair this formidable garrison was removed, and the city has since been left to prosper in the arts of peace and industry. " Here is picturesque St. John, with its couple of centuries of history and tradi- tion, its commerces, its enterprise felt all along the coast and through the settle- ments of the territory to the northeast, with its no doubt charming society and solid English culture ; and the summer tourist, in an idle mood regarding it for a day, says it is naught." (Warnek's Baddeck.) St. John aspires to be the winter-port of tlic Dominion, and the Interco- /onial, Canadian Pacific, and Grand Trunk lines are arranging great ter- minal facilities here. Halifax is an energetic rival, although much farther from the Upper Provinces. ST. JOHN. Route 1. 21 St. Joliii. 1647. "To the winds give our banner I Bear homeward again ! " Cried tlie Lord of Acadia, Cried Charles of Estienne ; From tlie prow of his shallop He gazed, as the sun, From its bed in tlie ocean. Streamed up the St. John. O'er the blue western waters That shallop had passed. Where the mists of Penobscot Clung damp on her niast. St. Savior had looked On the heretic sail. As the songs of the Huguenot Rose on the gale. The pale, ghostly fathers Remembered her well. And had cursed her while passing. With taper and bell, But the men of Monhegan, Of Papists abhorred. Had welcomed and feasted The heretic Lord. Thev had loaded his shallop With dun-fish and ball. With stores for his larder. And steel for his wall. Pemequid, from her bastions And turrets of stone. Had welcomed his coming With banner and gun. And the prayers of the elders Had followed his way. As homeward he glided Down Pentecost Bay. O, well sped La Tour ! For, in peril and pain, His lady kept watch For his coming again. 0"er the Isle of the Pheasant The morning sun shone. On the plane-trees which shaded The shores of St. John. " Now why from yon battlements Speaks not my love? Why waves there no banner My fortress above ? " Dark and wild, from his deck St. Estienne gazed about, On fire-wasted dwellings, And silent redoubt ; From the low shattered walls Which the flame had o'errun, There floated no banner. There thundered no gun. But beneath the low arch Of its doorway there stood A pale priest of Rome, In his cloak and his hood. With the bound of a lion La Tour sprang to Innd, On the throat of the Papist He fastened his hand. " Speak, son of the Woman Of scarlet and sin ! What wolf has been prowling My castle within ? " From the grasp of the soldier The Jesuit broke. Half in scorn, half in sorrow, He smiled as he spoke : "No wolf. Lord of Estienne, Has ravaged thv hall, But thy red-handed rival, With fire, steel, and balll On an errand of mercy I hitlierward came. While the walls of thy castle Yet spouted with flame. " Pentagoet s dark vessels Were moored in the bay. Grim sea-lions, roaring Aloud for their prey 1 " " But what of my lady?" Cried Charles of Estienne. " On the shot-crumbled turret Tliy lady was seen : " Half veiled in the smoke-cloud, Her hand grasped thy pennon, While her dark tresses swayed In the hot breath of cannon I But woe to the heretic, Evermore woe ! When the son of the church And the cross is his foe! " In the track of the shell. In the path of the ball, Pentagoet swept over The breach of the wall! Steel to steel, gun to gun. One moment, — and then Alone stood the victor. Alone with his men! " Of its sturdy defenders. Thy lady alone Saw the cross-blazoned banner Float over St. John." " Let the dastard look to it 1 " Cried fiery Estienne, " Were DAulnay King Louie, I d free her again I " " Alas for thy lady ! No service from thee Is needed by her Whom the Lord hath set free : Nine days, in stern silence. Her thraldom she bore. But the tenth morning came. And Death opened her door I " As if suddenly smitten, La Tour staggered back ; His hand grasped his sword-hilt, His forehead grew black. He sprang on the deck Of liis shallop again. " We cruise now for vengeance I Give way ! " cried Estienne. " Massachusetts shall hear Of the Huguenot s wrong. And from island and creekside Her fishers shall throng ! Pentagoet shall rue What his Papists have done, When his palisades echp The Puritans gun I " O, the loveliest of heavens Hung tenderly per hirh. There were waves in the sunshine. And green isles before him : But a pale hand -vcas beckoning The Huguenot on ; And in blackness and ashes Behind was St. John ! John G. Whittier. 22 Route S. THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. 2. The Environs of St. John. * Lily Lake is about 1 M. from King Square, and is reached by cross- ing t!ie Valley and ascending Mount Pleasant. Tbie road which turns to the right from Owens Art School conducts past several villas and rural estates. From its end a broad path diverges to the r., leading in a few minutes to the lake, a beautiful sheet of water surrounded by high I'ocky banks. The environs are thickly studded Avith clumps of arbor-vit£B and evergreens, among which run devious rambles and pathways. No houses or other signs of civilization are seen on the shores, and the citizens wish to preserve this district in its primitive beauty by converting it into a pub- lic park. The water is of rare purity, and was used for several years to supply the city, being pumped up by expensive machinery. This is a favorite place for skating early in the season, and- at that time presents a scene of great activity and interest. A pleasant pathway leads on one side to the Lily Lalce Falls, Avhich are attractive in time of high w^ater. The Marsh. E.oad is the favorite drive for the citizens of St. John, and presents a busy scene on pleasant Sundays and during the season of sleigh- ing. It is broad, firm, and level, and follows the (supposed) ancient bed of the St. John River. At IJ M. from the city the Rural Cemetery is reached (only lot-owners are admitted on Sunday). This is a pleasant ground occupying about 12 acres along a cluster of high, rocky knolls, and its roads curve gracefully through an almost unbroken forest of old (but small) evergreen trees. The chief point of interest is along Ocean Avenue, where beneath uniform monuments are buried a large number of sailors. IJ M. beyond the Cemetery the Marsh Road passes the Three- Mile Hi-use and Moosejjath Park, a half-mile course which is much used for horse-racing, especially during the month of August. 3-4 M. farther on (with the Intercolonial Railway always near at hand) the road reaches the Torryhurn House, near the usual course for boat-racing on the broad Kennsbecasis Bay. The course of this estuary is now followed for 2 M., with the high cliff called the Minister's Face on the farther shore. Pass- ing several country-seats, the tourist arrives at Rothesay, prettily situated on the Kennebecasis. This village is a favorite place of summer residence for families from the city, and has numerous villas and picnic grounds. The facilities for boating and bathing are good. Near the railway station is Rothesay Hall, a summer hotel, accommodating 30-40 guests ($8-10 a week). Tliere are pleasant views from this point, including the broad and lake-like Kennebecasis for many miles, the palisades of the Minister's Face, and the hamlet of Moss Glen. Loch Lomond is about 11 M. N. E. of St. John, and is a favorite resort for its citizens. Many people go out to the lake on Saturday and remain there until Monday morning. The road crosses the Marsh Bridge and passes near the Silver Falls, a pretty cascade on Little River (whence the THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. Route 2. 23 city draws its water supply). There are two small hotels near Loch Lomond, of which Bunker's is at the lower end and Dalzell's is 3-4 M. be- yond, or near the head of the First Lake. These waters are much re- sorted to by trout-fishers, and the white trout that are found near Dalzell's Lake House are considered a delicacy. Boats and tackle are furnished at the hotels; and there is good shooting in the vicinity. The shores con- sist, for the most part, of low rolling hills, covered with forests. The First Lake is 4 x ^ M. in area, and is connected by a short stream with the Second Lake, which is nearly 2 M. long, and very narrow. The Third Lake is smaller than either of the others. " An elevated ridge of hard-wood land, over which the road passes near the nar- rowest part, afforded me from its sunmiit a view of the lower lake, which would not suffer in comparison with many either of our English or our Scottish lakes. Its surface was calm and still ; beyond it rose a wooded ridge of rounded hills, purpled by the broad-leaved trees which covered them, and terminated at the foot of the lake by a lofty, so-called Lion's Back, lower considerably than Arthur's Seat, yet still a miniature Ben Lomond." — Prof. Johnston. Ben Lomond, Jones, Taylor's, and other so-called lakes (being large forest-ponds) are situated in this neighborhood, and afford better fishing facilities than the much- visited waters of Loch Lomond. Both white and speckled trout are caught in great numbers from rafts or floats on these ponds; and Bunker's or Dalzell's affords a favorable headquarters for the sportsman, where also more particular information may be obtained. The Penitentiary is a granite building 120 ft. long, situated in an in- walled tract of 18 acres, on the farther side of Courtenay Bay. The Poor House is a spacious brick building in the same neighborhood. The road that passes these institutions is prolonged as far as Mispeck, traversing a diversified country, and at times affording pretty views of the Bay of Fundy. Mispeck is a small marine hamlet, 10 M. from St. John. There is an excellent drive, over a good highway, from St. John to the pleasant scenery of the Kennebecasis, by the Sand-Point road. The * Suspension Bridge is about 1^ M. from King Square, and the distance may be traversed by omnibuses (or in part by horse-cars) passing through the North End and under Fort-Howe Hill (whence a good view of the city is afforded). The bridge crosses the rocky gorge into which the wide waters of the St. John River are compressed, at a height of nearly 100 ft. above low water. The rush of the upward tide, and the falls which become visible at low tide, fill the stream with seething eddies and whirls, and render navigation impossible. At a certain stage of the flood-tide, and for a few minutes only, this gorge may be passed by vessels and rafts. A splendid steel cantilever railway bridge spans the river immediately above the Suspension Bridge. The St. John River is over 450 M. long, and, with its many tributaries, drains a vast extent of country. Yet, at this point, where its waters are emptied into the harbor, the outlet of the river is narrowed to a channel which is in places but 450 ft. wide, with cliffs of limestone 100 ft, high hemming it in on either side. The stream rushes through this narrow pass with great impetuosity, and its course is further disturbed by several rocky islets. The tides in the harbor rise to a height of 22-26 24 Route %. THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. ft. , and rush up the river with such force as to overflow the falls and produce level water at flood-tide. The bridge was built in 1852 by an American engineer, and cost $ 80,000. It is 640 ft. long and contains 570 M. of wire, supported on 4 slender but solid towers. Over the head of the bridge, on the Carleton shore, is the ProrAncial Lunatic Asylum^ an extensive brick building with long wings, situated in pleasant grounds. Its elevated situation renders it a prominent object in approaching the city from almost any direction. The building was erected in 1848, and accommodates 400 patients. From this vicinity, or from the bridge, are seen the busy manufacturing villages about Indiantown and Point Pleasant, most of which are engaged in the lumber business. On the summit of the highest hill in Carleton is a venerable and pic- turesque stone tower, which gives an antique and feudal air to the land- scape. It is known as the Martello Tower, and was built for a harbor- defence at the time when this peculiar kind of fortification was favored by the British War Office. Many of these works may be seen along the shores of the British Isles, but they are now used (if used at all) only as coast-guard stations. The tower in Carleton is under the charge of a sub- officer, and near by are seen the remains of a hill-battery, with a few old guns still in position. The * view from this point is broad and beautiful, including St. John, with the spires of Trinity and the Cathedral most prominent, Portland and the Fort Howe Hill, the wharves of Carleton and its pi-etty churches, the harbor and shipping, the broad Bay of Fundy, ex- tending to the horizon, and in the S. the blue shores of Nova Scotia (the North Mt.), with tne deep gap at the entrance to the Annapolis Basin, called the Digby Gut. The streets of Carleton are as yet in a transition state, and do not invite a long sojourn. On the hill near the Martello Tower is the tall and grace- ful Church of the Assumption, with pleasant grounds, in M'hich is the fine building of the presbytery. Below this point is the Convent of St. Vincent, S. of which is seen the spire of St. Jude's Episcopal Church. The Fern Ledges are about 1 M. from Carleton, on the shore, and are much visited by geologists. They consist of an erratic fragment of the Old Red Sandstone epoch, and are covered with sea-weed and limpets. On clearing awaj- the weeds and breaking the rock, the most beautiful impressions of ferns and other cryptoganious plants are found. The Mahogany 1 Road affords a fine drive along the Bay shore, with a succession of broad marine views. It is gained by crossing the Suspen- sion Bridge and passing the Insane Asylum. About 4 M. from the city is the Four-Mile House, ^ favorite objective point for drives. The road is often followed as far as Spruce Lake, a fine sheet of water 6 M. long, and situated about 7 M. from St. John. Perch are found here in great num- bers, but the facilities for fishing are not good. The Avater supply of the suburb of Carleton is drawn from this lake. 1 Mahogany, a popular adaptation of the Indian word Mnnawagonish, applied to the neighboring bay. CAMPOBELLO. Route 3. 25 3. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. — Passaniaquoddy Bay. ('5'^'^ p^^fi^ 30 b.) The commodious vessels of the luternatioaal Steamship Company leave theRGecl''s Poiut Wharf, at St. Johu, every Moudaj', Wednesday, aud Friday, at 7.25 A.M., and reach Eastport (6'» M. di.-taut) before noon. A couuectiouis made there with a smaller steamboat, wbieli ascends Passamaquoddy Cay and the St. Croix lliver to St. Andrews and St Stephen. The Shore Line Railway runs from St. John to St. Steplien, 82 miles W., and it is hoped that it may be extended down through Maine to Ban- gor, crossing th>- frontier at Calais, and running around through the coast counties. It is not yet perfect in route and equipment, and is content with running in a very leisurely way down this picturesque and thinly settled coast. The localities which it appri aches are more particularly described on pages 31, 32, 33, 34, and 35 of this book. Stations. — St John to Spruce Lake, 7 M ; Musquash, 9; Lancaster, 16; Lepreaux, 24; New River, 29; Fennfield, 36 5 St. Ueorge, 47; Bonny River, 58; Dyer's, 62 ; Oak Bay, 67 ; St. Stephen, 82. After leaving St. John, the steamer runs S. W. into the Bay of Fundy, and soon passes Split Eock, and stretches across to Point Lepreau. The peculiarities of the coast, which is always visible (in clear weather) on the N., are spoken of in Eoute 5, and are thus epitomized by Mr. Warner : " A pretty bay now and then, a rocky cove with scant foliage, a light- house, a rude cabin, a level land, monotonous and without noble forests, — this was New Brunswick as we coasted along it under the most favorable circumstances." After passing the iron-bound islets called the Wolves (where the Neto England Avas wrecked in 1872), the steamer runs in towards the West Isles, whose knob-like hills rise boldly from the blue waters. Sometimes she meets, in these outer passages, great fleets of fishing-boats, either drifting over schools of fish, or, with their white and red sails stretched, pursuing their prey. If such a meeting occurs during one of the heavy fogs which so often visit this coast, a wonderfully weird effect is caused by the sudden emergence and disappearance of the boats in the dense white clouds Soon after passing the White Horse islet, the steamer enters, the Eastern Passage, and runs to the S. W. into Friar's Road. On the r. is Deer Isle, a rugged island, 7 M. long by 8 M. wide, with a poor soil and no good hai-bors. There are about 1,600 inhabitants on this island, and it is suiTOunded by an archipelago of isolated rocky peaks. The shores attain an elevation of 300 ft., and from some of the higher hills are gained beau- tiful panoramic views of the Passamaquoddy Bay, on one side, and the Bay of Fundy, on the other. o 26- Routes. EASTPORT. On the other side are the grandly picturesque headlands of Campobello, the island which has recently become so well known as an American sum- mer-resort, particularly affected by the best people of Boston and Cam- bridge. A more thorough account of this locality is found on page 30. a, hereinafter. The earliest settlement on the Bay was established about 1770, by the Campo- bello Con.pany, and was located at Harbor dc Lute, on Campobello Island It was named Warrington, but the Welchpool settlement has long since surpassed it. The island was for some time the property of Capt. Owen, of the Royal Navy, to whom the residents paid tenants' dues. At certain stages of the tide, Eastport can only be approached by passing around Campobello, concerning which Mr. Warner in- dulges in the following pleasantry : " The possession by the British of the island of Campobello is an insufferable menace and impertinence. I write with a full knowl- edge of what war is. We ought to instantly dislodge the British from Campobello. It°entirely shuts up and commands our harbor, — one of our chief Eastern har- bors and war stations, where we keep a flag and cannon and some soldiers, and where the customs officers look out for smuggling. There is no way to get into our own harbor, except in favorable circumstances of the tide, without begging the courtesy of a passage through British waters. Why is England permitted to stretch along down our coast in this straggling and inquisitive manner ? She might almost as well own Long Island. It was impossible to prevent our cheeks mantling with shame as we thought of this, and saw ourselves, free American citizens, landlocked by alien soil in our own harbor. We ought to have war, if war is necessary to pos- sess Campobello and Deer Islands, or else wc ought to give the British Eastport. I am not sure but the latter would be the better course." Eastport {The Quoddy, a new and comfortjible hotel, with 65 chambers) is an American border-town on the const of Maine, and has 3,738 in- habitants and 8 churches. It is built on the slope of a hill at rhe E. end of Moose Island, in Passamaquoddy Bay, and is engaged in the fish- eries and the coasting-trade. Over the village are the ramparts of Fort Sullivan, a post of the United States, commanding the harbor with it.s artillery. Eastport is much visited in snmmer for the sake of the salt- water fishing and the unique marine scenery in the vicinity, and has sev- eral reputable boarding-houses. It is connected with the mainland by a bridge, over which lies the road to the Indian village. Eastport is the most convenient point from which to reach Campobello, -Grand JManan (see Route 4), and the adjacent islands. A steam-ferry runs hence in 3 M. to Lubec ( Lubec House, Cobscook Hotel), a picturesque marine village to- wards Quoddy Head, with advantages for stammer residents. TJiis pleasant little place is decaying slowly, having lost over 400 inhabitants between 1860 and 1870. The present population is a little over 2,000. Lubec is 1 M. ftirther E. than Eastport, and is therefore the easternmost town of the United States. The purple cliffs of Gi-and Manan are seen from Quoddy Head. EASTPORT. Routes. 27 In 1684 the Passamaquodcly islands were granted by the King of France to Jean Sarreau de 8t Aubin. In the summer of 1704 the few French settlers about Passa- uiaquoddy Ray were plundered by an expedition under Col Church, consisting of 600 Massachusetts soldiers, escorted by the men-of-war Jersey, 48, and Gos//orl, 32- They ascended the St. Croix as far as the head of navigarion, then returned and crossed the bay to ravage the Minas settlements. Tliey visited Moose Island and the adjacent main, and carried off all the settlers as prisoners. Eighteen years later a Boston ship was captured by the Indians among these islands, but was retaken by its crew when a fair wind arose In 1744 Massachusetts declared war against the Indians on this bay and on the St. John liiver; and in 1760 the tribes sued for peace, sending hostages to Boston. In 1734 Gov. Belcher (of Mass.) visited the bay, and in 1750 and 1762 its shores and islands were I'egularly surveyed. During the AVar of the R,evolution the Passamaquoddy Indians were loyal to the United States, and declined all offers from the British agents. The boundary question began to assume great importance after the close of the war. The treaty stipulated that the St. Croix River should form the frontier; but Massachusetts, supported by the Indians, claimed that the Magaguadavic was the true St. Croix ; ■while Great Britain asserted and proved that the outlet of the Schoodic Lakes was the veritable river. The islands were surrendered to Britain : but Moose, Dudley, and Frederick Islands were restored to the United States in 1818. Eastport was founded about 1784, by fishermen from the coast of Essex County, Mass., who settled here on account of the facilities for catching and curing fish. In 1808 the walls of Fort Sullivan were i-aised, and a detachment of troops was sta- tioned there. In 1813 the valuable British vessel, the Eiiza Ann, was captured by the privateer Timothy Pickering and sent into Eastport. She was followed by H. M. S. Martin, whose commander demanded her surrender, on pain of destroying the town. The citizens refused to release the prize, and the Martin opened fire on Eastport, but was soon driven away by the guns of the fort. July 11, 1814, a Brit- ish fleet appeared off the town, and informed the commander that if he did not haul down his flag within five minutes they would bombard the town. The flag came down, the garrison laid down their arms, and the hostile fleet, headed by the lianii- lies, 74, anchored off the town. British martial law was enforced here for the next four years, after which the place was restored to the United States. The river-steamboat, in ascending the bay, runs for some distance between Deer Isle and Moose Island. At about 5 M. from Eastport, Pleasant Point (known to the Indian.? as Sybaik) is seen on the 1. Here is the chief settlement of the Passamaquoddy Indians, who were driven from the peninsula of St. Andrews nearly a century ago, and received their present domain from the American government. They are about 400 in number, and draw an annuity and a school-fund from the Republic. They are the remnant of the ancient Openango tribe of the Etchemin nation, and they cling tenaciously to the faith delivered unto them of old by the Jesuits. Their church is dedicated to St. Anne, and is served by Indian deacons ; and the pictu- resque cemetery is in the same vicinity. They support themselves by hunting, fish- ing, and basket-making, and their favorite amusement is dancing, for which they have built a hall. There are scarcely any pure-blooded Indians here, but the adulteration has been made with a choicer material than among the other tribes, since these are mostly French half-breeds, in distinction from the negro half-breeds of the lower coasts. Many years ago there was a controversy about the chieftaincy, in consequence of which a portion of the tribe seceded, and are now settled on the Schoodic Lakes. The name Passamaquoddy is said to be derived from Pe.smo-acac//e, " pollock- place " Others say that Quoddy means ''pollock"; but Father Vetromile, the .scholarly Jesuit missionary, claims that the whole word is a corruption of the Indian Peskamaquontik, derived from Peskadaminkkanti, a term which signifies "it goes up into the open field." 28 Route 4. GRAND MANAN. As the bay is entered, above Pleasant Point, the West Isles are seen opening on the r., displaying a great variety of forms and combinations. On the 1. are the pleasant shores of Perry, and ftir across, to the r., are the highlands about the Magaguadavic River. After passing Navy Island, the boat rounds in at St. Andrews. St. Andrews, the St. Croix River, and St. Stephen, see pages 33-36. 4. Grand Manan. This " paradise of cliffs " is situated off Quoddy Head, about 7 M. from the Maine coast, and pertains to the Province of New Brunswick. It is easily reached from Eastport and St. John, with which it has a mail communication. The summer climate would be delicious were it not for the fogs ; and it is claimed that invalids suffering from gout and dyspep.«ia receive much benefit here (vei-y likely from the enforced abstinence from rich food). The brooks and the many fresh- water ponds afford fair trouting and bird-shooting, and a few deer and rabbits are found in the woods. There are no bears nor reptiles on the island. There is a small inn at Grand Harbor, bat the sojourner will prefer to get board in some of the private houses. Neat rooms and simple fare may there be obtained for $4-7 a week. " As we advanced, Manan gradually rose above the waves and changed its aspect, the fiat-topped purple wall being transmuted into brown, rugged, perpendicular cliffs, crowned with dark green foliage. Passing, as we did, close in by the extreme northern point, we were impressed by its beauty and grandeur, which far exceeds even that of the cliffs at Mount Desert. " As a place of summer resort, Grand Manan is in some respects unequalled. At certain seasons the fog is abundant, yet that can be endured. Here the opportuni- ties for recreation are unequalled, and all persons fond of grand sea-shore views may indulge their taste without limit. The people are invariably kind and trust- worthy, and American manners and customs prevail to such an extent that travel- lers at once feel at home." (De CosrA.) The island of Grand Manan is 22 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, and lies in the mouth of the Bay of Fundy, whose powerful tides sweep impetuously b}' its shores. It has about 2,700 inhabitants, who dwell along the road Avhich connects the harbors on the E. shore, and are famous for their dar- ing and expertuess in the fisheries. They have 10 schools, 8 churches (5 Free-Will Baptist, and 2 Church of England) ; w^hile the advantages of free-trade, insignificant taxation, government-built roads, and complete seif-legislation, give reason for the apostrophe, *' Happy Mananites, who, free from grinding taxation, now rove out from rock-bound coves, and quarry at will in the silvery mines of the sea! " The harbors on the E. shore afford safe shelter for small vessels, and are connected Avith the great cliffs on the W. by narrow roads through the woods. The fisheries of cod, herring, and haddock are very extensive in this vicinity, and form the chief resource of the people, who are distinguished for the quaint sim- plicity which usually pertains to small and insulated mai'itime communi- ties. Grand Manan has been for many years a favorite resort for Amer- ican marine painters, wdio find excellent studies in its picturesque cliffs and billowy seas. It was visited b}^ Champlain in 1605, but was occupied only by the Indians for 180 years after. Col. Allan, the American com- mander in E. Maine during the Revolution, held the island with his Indian GRAND MANAN. Route 4- 29 auxiliaries, but it was finally ceded to Great Britain. After the war it was settled by several Loj^alists from Massachusetts, chief among whom was Moses Gerrish. A recent writer demands that the island be fortified and developed, claiming that its situation, either for commerce or war, is strategically as valuable as those of the Isle of Man, Guernsey, and Jersey, and that it would make a fine point of attack against Portland and the coast of Maine. Grand Harbor is the chief of the island hamlets, and is situated on the safe and shallow bay of the same name. It has an Episcopal church of stone and two or three stores, besides a small inn. Off shore to the S. E. lie Ross, Cheyne, and White Head Islands, on the latter of which Audu- bon studied the habits of the herring-gulls, in 1833. To the E. are the rock-bound shores of Nantucket Island, and on the S. are the Grand Ponds. The South Shore is reached by a good road leading down from Grand Harbor. At 5 M. distance is the narrow harbor of Seal Cove, beyond which the road lies nearer to the sea, affording fine marine views on the ]., including the Wood Islands and the Gannet Rock Lighthouse, 9-10 M. at sea. 4 M. beyond Seal Cove the road reaches Broad Cove, whence a path leads across the downs for about 2 M. to the high and ocean- viewing cliffs of S. W. Head. Among the rugged and surf-beaten rocks of this bold promontory is one which is called the Southern Cross. About the S. W. Head is a favorite resort and breeding-place of the gulls, whose nests are made in the grass. A forest-path leads N. to Bradford's Cove, on the W. shore, a wide bight of the sea in which the ship Mavourneen was wrecked. The NorHh Shore. The road from Grand Harbor to Whale Cove is 7 - 8 M. long, and is firm and well-made. 14 M, N. of Grand Harbor, Wood- ward's Cove is passed, with its neat hamlet, 4 M. beyond which is Flagg's Cove. Sprague's Cove is a pretty fishing-hamlet on the S. side of Swal- low-Tail Head, where "everything appears to have been arranged for artistic effect. The old boats, the tumble-down storehouses, the pic- tui'esque costumes, the breaking surf, and all the miscellaneous para- phernalia of such a place, set off as they are by the noble background of richly-colored cliffs, produce an effect that is as rare as beautiful." Swallow-Tail Head is a fan-shaped peninsula, surrounded by wave-worn cliffs, and swept by gales from every quarter. On its outer point is a lighthouse which holds a fixed light (visible for 17 ]\I ) 148 ft. above the sea. Whale Cove is on the N. E. shore, and is bordered by a shingle-beach on which are found bits of porphyry, agate, jasper, and other minerals. " Here the view is surprisingly fine, the entire shore being encircled by immense cliffs that rise up around the border of the blue waves, with a richness of color and stateliness of aspect that cannot fail to impress the 30 Route .5. GRAND iMANAN. beholder On the E. side is Fish Head, and on the W. Eel Brook and Northern Head, the latter extending out beyond its neighbor, and be- tween are the bine sky and water." On the melancholy cliffs at Eel Brook Cove the ship Lord Ashburton was wrecked, and nearly all on boai-d w^ere lost (21 of them are buried at Flagg's Cove). Beyond this point, and near the extreme northci'n cape, is the Bishop^s Head, so called because of a vague profile in the face of the cliff. The W. coast of Grand Manan is lined with a succession of massive cliffs, which appear from West Quoddy like a long and unbroken purple wall. These great precipices are 3 - 400 ft. high (attaining their greatest eleva- tion at the N. end), and form noble combinations of marine scenery. A cart-track leads across the island from near Woodward's Cove to the ro- mantic sceneiy about Dark Cove ; near which is Money Cove, so named because search has been made there for some of Capt. Kidd's buried treasures. To the N. is Indian Beach, where several lodges of the Fassa- maquoddy tribe pass the summer, attending to the shore fishery of por- poises. Still farther N. are the rocky palisades and whirling cm-rents of Long's Eddy. '* When the cliff is brought out on such a stupendous scale as at Grand Manan, "with all the accessories of a wild ocean shore, the interest horomes absorbing. The other parts of the island are of course invested with mvich iiiterest. The low eastern shore, fringed with small islands and rocks, affords manj picturesque sights. In a pleasant daj' a walk southward has man}- charms. The bright sky, the shingle beach, the picturesque boats, and blue land-locked bays continually enforce the admiration of an artistic eye, and allure the pedestrian on past cape, cove, and reach, until he suddenly finds that miles of gi'ound intervene between him and his dinner." (De Costa.) " Grand Manan, a favorite summer haunt of the painter, is the very throne of the bold and I'omantic. The high precipitous shores, but for the woods which beau- tify them, are quite in the style of Labrador." (L. L. Noble ) Charlevoix speaks of an old-time wonder which seems to have passed away from the.se shores : " It is even asserted that at | of a league off" Isle Menane, which serves as a guide to vessels to enter St. John's River, there is a rock, almost always cov- ered by the sea, which is of lapis-lazuli. It is added that Commander de Razilli broke off a piece, which he sent to France, and Sieur Deuys, who had seen it, says that it was valued at ten crowns an ounce." "But, interesting as are all parts of this picturesque island, the climax of solitary wildoess and grandeur is to be found only in the 'Gi-eat (or Gull) Cliffs,' at Southern Head. Lauding from the Eastport steamer, either at Flagg's or at Woodward's Cove, let us charter an open vehicle and ride down the island. The smooth brown road skirts along the E. shore for the most part, showing us in succession the half-dozen peaceful fishing-hamlets which contain its entire population, with their seven neat churches and their remarkably handsome and commodious sehoolhouscs. After 3 hrs. delightful drive, we arrive at ^ Harrey's,' a very slnall but uio-t home- like cottage inn. Alighting here, let us take the picturesque path that loads to the' Great (or Gull) Cliffs.' For the first i M. the path takes us acro.ss elevated pasture-land, showing us the open sea upon three sides. For another quarter it plunges into a dense forest, and presently descends to the edge of the water, which it reaches at a little stony level known as ' Southern Heud Beach.' Cro.ssiug this, and skirting the S. W. coast, we soon commence rising with the rising shore, until at the end of a short mile we emerge from the siirubbevy to find ourselves on the top of ' llay Point,' gazing perpendicularly dowu at the sea, which dashes, at the CAMPOBELLO. Route 78. 30 a base of the 3liff over which we lean, some 250 feet below ! A few rods further on, and we come to the new Southern Head Liglithouse. B'rom hence lor a mile fur- ther we pace alouy: tlio deeply indented ed,i;e of this dizzy height, as upon a loi'ty espltiuade, enjoying its solitary grandeur, enhanced by the wild sci-eauis of hun- dreds of circling sea gulls, until at last we arrive opposite the ' Old Maid.' " A stanch steamboat runs between Eastport and Grand Manan, con- necting with the International steamships from Boston at Eastport, and crossing to the island in 2 hrs. There is a good pier at Flagg's Cove (North Head). Two small but comfortable hotels have been erected near Xi rth Head (the Marble-Ridge House); and Grand Manan has latterly grown rapidly in public favor. A submarine cable runs hence to Eastport. There are 5 telegTaph-offices on the island. There are also several livery stables, and good roads. Complete immunity from hay-fever is enjoyed here. Myriads of gulls and stormy petrels breed on the adjacent islets. 78, Campobello. Small steamboats run from Eastport to Campobello hourly. The O^ven is an Eesthetic summer-hotel, composed of the old Owen mansion, devoted to office, billiard-room kitchen, and dining-room, and the main building, a huge modern erection, containing parlors and chambers, and connected with the old mansion by a long open corridor. The surrounding grounds are pleasantly laid out, and contain the old porter's lodge, sun-dial. Lovers' Lane, and the Admiral's hawthorn hedges. The Tyn-y-Coedd (House in the Wood) is another large summer-hotel, per- taining to the Campobello Company, and devoted mainly to the accommodation of femiiies, being quieter and more secluded than the Owen. Campobello is an island 8 M. by 3 in area, lying off the Bav of Fundy, and pertaining to the Province of Xew Brunswick. It has 1,16.0 inhabi- tants, most of whom live in two villages, — Wclchjwol, on a prett}^ harboi to the N., and Wilson's Beach, a populous fishing-settlement on the S. shore, settled by squatters, in defiance of the Owens, who frequently burned their houses and schooners, but were finalh- obliged to allow them to stay. The fine old Owen roads across the island have been extended by new highways opened by ihe Campobello Company, and afford beauti- ful drives across the breezy uplands, through leagues of silent evei'green forests, and out on .sea-beaten promontories. There are a few profitable farms on the island, and minerals are found in the hills and glens; but the chief source of income is the fishing business. The Episcopal Church is ultra-Anglican, with its vicar praying for the Queen and all the Royal Family, with the usual English intonation ; its great chancel-carpet, embroidered by the ladies of New Brunswick, with the three feathers of the Prince of Wales; and its rich altar-cloths, pre- sented by Sister Portia, Admiral Owen's granddaughter. The only other church on the island is Baptist. The chief local holidays are the Queen's Birthday and Dominion Day (July 1). Glea Severn (the ancient Herring Cove) is a lovely cove on the outer 30 h Route 78. CAMPOBELLO. jhore, with brilliant-hued pebbles, craggy headlands, and a contiguous lake of fresh water. Friar's Head., within IJ M. of the Owen, is a rocky pillar in the sea, off cliffs 146 ft. high, and badly battered by artillery. Eastern Head, Harbor de Lute, the lightliouses at the ends of the island, and other interesting points, are visited by summer-sojourners. The west- ern side of Campobello fronts on the beauties of Passamaquoddy Bay, around which appear Lubec, Eastport, and other white villages, with the purple hills of New Brunswick in the distance. Campobello, the ancient Passaviaquoddy Island, was granted by the British Crown to Admiral William FitzwiDiam Owen in 1767, and that gentleman and his heirs, of a noble naval family, occupied the domain for moi-e than a hundred years. The Admiral built a quarter deck over the rocks, on which he used to promenade in full uniform. He «-as buried by candle-light, in the churchyard of the little Episcopal church, where his descendants have since followed him. There are num- berless quaint legends of the old regime here ; of Sir Robert Peel's visit, and the advent of British frigates ; of mysterious wrecks, pirates, apparitions, and other marvels. After Admiral Owen died, the estate fell to his son-in-law, Captain Robinson, of the Royal Navy, who thereupon assumed the Owen name and settled upon the island. There was great excitement here in 1866, when many armed Irish patriots came to Eastport. apparently with a design of invading Campobello, and twisting the tail of the British lion. The island was nearly deserted by its inhabitants ; British frig- ates and American cutters cruised in the adj^tcent waters ; St. Andrews and St. Stephen were garrisoned by British troops; and General Meade occupied Eastport with a detacliment of United States regulars. The last of the Owens moved to Eng- land, tired of the monotonous life of the old manor-house, and in 1880 Campobello was purchased by a syndicate of Boston and New York capi'^alists, to be made into a summer- resort. Besides the great hotels, many summer-cottages and villas are being erected here by well-known families from Boston, Cambridge, and other cities. The new development of this remote island as a summer-resort has been rapid and secure, and already Camfiobello bids fair to become a formidable rival of Mount Desert, in a fashionable point of vieAv, although its scenery is in almost every way inferior. The novel and original architecture and equipments of the great hotels, and the attractiveness of their grounds and surroundings combine with the insular and provincial quaintnesses of the islanders to make a sojourn here very interesting. The Tyn-y-Mais (" House in the Field") is the latest built of the great hotels of Campobello. 5. St. John to St. Andrews and St. Stephen. ~ Passama- quoddy Bay, The steamer leaves the Reed's Point Wharf every Thursday and Saturday, at 8 A. M., and reaches St. Stephen before dark She returns from St. Stephen every Monday and Friday morning. Fares, St. John to St. George, $1.75, to St. An- drews, If? 1.50 ; to St. Stephen, ^ 1.75. This is uot a permanent route, and is liable to cliauge or discontinuance. Diil. trains from St. John, Fredericton, and all points east, ^ west, and nortu U' St. Andrews and St. Stephen. BAY OF FUNDY. Routed. 31 After leaving the harbor of St. John the steamer runs S. W. by W. 9^ M., passing the openings of Manawagonish Bay and Pisarinco Cove. The course is laid well out in the Bay of Fundy, which " wears a beautiful aspect in fine summer weather, — a soft chalky hue quite different from the stern blue of the sea on the Atlantic shores, and somewhat approach- ing the summer tints of the channel on the coast of England." Beyond the point of Split Rock, Musquash Harbor is seen opening to the N. It is a safe and beautiful haven, 2 M. long and very deep, at whose head is the pretty Episcopal village of Musquash (Musquash Hotel), with several lum- ber-mills. About two centuries ago a French war-vessel was driven into this harbor and destroyed by a British cruiser. From Split Rock the course is W. \ S. for 1\\ M. to Point Lepreau, passing the openings of Chance Harbor and Dipper Harbor, in which are obscure marine hamlets. In the latter, many years ago, the frigate Plumper was wrecked, with a large amount of specie on board. The harbor is now visited mostly by lobster-fishers. Point Lejjreau is a bold and tide-swept promontory, on which are two fixed lights, visible for 18 and 20 M. at sea. The traveller will doubtless be amazed at the rudeness and sterility of these frown- ing shores. " Two very different impressions in regard to the Province of New Brunswick will be produced on the mind of the stranger, according as he contents himself with visiting the towns and inspecting the lands which lie along the sea- board, or ascends its rivers, or penetrates by its numerous roads into the interior of its more central and northern counties. In the former case he will feel like the traveller who enters Sweden by the harbors of Stockholm and Gottenburg, or who sails among the rocks on the western coast of Norway. The naked cliffs or shelving shores of granite or other hardened rocks, and the unvarying pine forests, ji waken in his mind ideas of hopeless desolation, and poverty and barrenness appear neces- sarily to dwell within the iron-bound shores But on the other hand, if the stranger penetrate beyond the Atlantic shores of the Province and travel through the interior, he will be struck by the number and beauty of its rivers, by the fertility of its river islands and intervales, and by the great extent and excellent condition of its roads." (Prof. J. F. W. Johnston, F. R. S.) From Point Lepreau the course is laid nearly W. for 16 ^ M. to Bliss Island, crossing the bight of Mace's Bay, a wide and shallow estuary in which are two fishing-hamlets. The Saturday steamer stops on this reach at Beaver Harbor, a place of 150 inhabitants. S. of this harbor, and seen on the 1. of the course, are the five black and dangerous islets called the Wolves, much dreaded by navigators. A vessel of the International Steam- sliip Company was wrecked here. One of the Wolves bears a revolving light. 111 ft. high, and visible for 16 M. The steamer now rounds Bliss Island (which has a fixed red light), and to the N. is seen the entrance to V Etang Harbor, a deep and picturesque inlet which is well sheltered by islands, the large.st of which is called Cai- tiff. A few miles S. W. are seen tlie rolling hills of Campobello; Deer Island is nearer, on the W. ; and the bay is studded with weird-looking huramocky islands, — the Nubble, White, and Spruce Islands, the grim trap-rock mamelon of White Horse, and many other nameless rocks. They are known as ihe Wtst Isles, and most of them are inhabited by hard-working fishermen . 32 Route 5. ST. GEORGE. St. George (three inns), a village of 1,200 inhabitants devoted to the lumber and granite trades, is at the head of the tide, 4 M. from the ship- harbor below, and stands on both sides of the Magaguadavic, at the Lower Falls, where the river is compressed into a chasm 30 ft. wide, and falls about 50 ft. These falls in several steps furnish a water-power un- surpassed in Canada, and along the sides of the gorge, clinging to the rocks like eagles' nests, are several mills in which lumber and granite are manufactured. Geologists have found in this vicinity marked evidences of the action of icebergs and glaciers. The gorge through which the waters rush with an almost Niagara roar has been caused by some convulsion of nature, which in its mighty throes rent the cliffs asunder, giving vent to what must have been a great lake above. This district has become cele- brated for its production of a fine granite of a rose-red color which receives a high polish, and is extensively used for ornamental columns and monu- ments. It is pronounced by competent judges to be superior to4he Scotch granite of Peterhead (popularly called "Aberdeen Granite"), and is beautifully tinted. The construction of the Shore Line Eailwny affords improved facilities for visiting this interesting locality. " The Tillage, the cataract, the lake, and the elevated wilderness to the N., render this part of the country peculiarly picturesque; indeed, the neighborhood of St. George, the Digdeguash, Chamcook, and the lower St. Croix, present the traveller with some of the finest scenery in America." (Dr. Gesner.) L,ake Utopia is picturesquely situated in a deep and sheltered depression, along whose slopes ledges of red gn.nite crop out. It is about 1 M. from St. George,^- and 6 M. long, and connects with the Magaguadavic River 3 M. above the village, by a natural canal 1 M. long, which is well bordered by magnificent forest trees, and furnishes a beautiful resort for boating parties, sportsmen, and anglers en route, to the Lake. The earliest pioneers found the remains of an ancient and mysterious temple, all ti'aces of which "have now passed a waj'. Here also was found a slab of red granite, bearing a large bas-relief of a human head, in style re- sembling an Egyptian sculpture, and having a likene?s to Washington. This re- markable medallion has been placed in the Natural History Museum at St. John. For nearly 40 years the Indians and lumbermen near the lake have told marvellous stories of a marine prodigy called " the Monster of Utopia," which dwells in this fair forest-loch. His last appearance was in 1867, when several persons about the shores claimed to have seen furious disturbances of the waters, and to have caught momentary glimpses of an animal 10 ft. thick and 30 ft long. The lake abounds in silvery-gray trout, and its tributary streams contain many brook-trout and smelt. Among the hills along the valley of the Magaguadavic River are the favorite haunts of large numbers of Virginian deer. Moofe were formerly abundant in this region, and it is but a few years since over 400 were killed in one season, for the sake of their hides. This noble game animal has been nearly exterminated by the merciless set- tlers, and will soon become extinct in this district. The Magaguadavic Kiver (an Indian name meaning "The River of the Hills •') rises in a chain of lakes over 80 M. N W., within a short portage of tlie Sheogomoc River, a tributary of the upper St. .T( hn. Tniyer.^iug the groat Lake of Magaguadavic it descends through an uuinhalntcd ami barren highlar.d region, tersely described by an early pioneer as " a scraggl\ IhiIc " aMucli of its lower valley is a wide intervale, which is supposed to have been an ancient lake-bottont. The river is followed closely by a rugged road, which leads to the remote Harvey and Magaguadavic settlements. After leaving the port of St. George, the steamer runs S. W. across Passamaquoddy Bay, with the West Isles and the heights of Deer Island on the S., and other bold hummocks on either side. On the N. are the ST. ANDREWS. Routed. 33 estuaries of the Digdeguasli and Bocabec Rivers, and the massive ridge of the Chamcook Mt. St. Andrews, the capital of Charlotte County, is tinely situated on a peninsula at the mouth of the St. Croix River, which is here 3 M. wide. It has about 1,800 inhabitants, and a few quiet old streets, surrounded by a broad belt of farms. The town was founded about a century ago, and soon acquired considerable commercial importance, and had large fleets in its harbor, loading with timber for Great Britain and the West Indies. This era of prosperity was ended by the rise of the town of St. Stephen and by the operation of the Reciprocity Treaty, and for many years St. Andrews has been retrogx-ading, until now the wharves are deserted and dilapidated, and the houses seem antiquated and neglected. It has recently attracted summer visitors, on account of the pleasant scenery and the facilities for boating and fishing. The new Hotel Algonquin is one of the handsomest summer-resorts on the Atlantic coast, and occupies Iiigh ground near St. Andrews, overlook- ing a vast expanse of Passamaquodd}' Bay. It is visited by many distin- guished Americans and Canadians every season. Fogs are very rare; summer nights are cool; and the environs ai's lovelv. The town is laid out in square blocks, and the streets are wide and kept in good order. The roads are excellent for driving, and from many points give picturesque views. The public buildings are the court-house, jail, rec- ord office, and marine hospital; and there are a number of neat private residences. Of churches it has Presbyterian, Methodist, Baptist, Roman Catholic, and Church of England. The "Argyll," a large structure, with rooms for 200 guests, was opened iti 1881 as a summer-hotel. It is pleasantly located on elevated ground, and con- venient to the beaches, where the facilities for sea-bathing are unrivalled. Trains run to and from St. Andrews, connecting; ■with trains for Woodstock, Houlton, St. John, Bangor, Portland, and Boston. Steamboats run daily between St. Andrews, Calais, Eastport, and Campobello, connecting at Eastport with steamers for St. John, Grand Manan, Portland, and Boston. The Chamcook Mt. is about 4 M. IST. of St. Andrew, and its base is reached by a good road (visitors can also go by railway to the foot of the mountain). It is often ascended by parties for the sake of the view, which includes ''the lovely Passamaquoddy Bay, with its little islands and outline recalling recollections of the Gulf of Naples as seen from the summit of Vesuvius, whilst the scenery toward the N. is hilly, with deep troughs containing natural tarns, where trout are plentiful." As the steamer swings out into the river, the little ship-building village of Robbinston is seen, on the American shore. On the r, the bold bluffs of 34 Routes. ST. CROIX RIVER. Chamcook Mt. are passed, and occasional farm-houses ai'e seen along the shores. 5-6 M. above St. Andrews, the steamer passes on the E. side of Doucet's Island, on which a lighthouse has been erected by the Ameri- can government. W. of the island is the village of Red Beach, with its plaster-mills, and on the opposite shore is the farming settlement of Bay Shore. In the year 1604 Henri IV. of France granted a large part of America to Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts, and Governor of Pons. This tract extended from Phila- delphia to Quebec, and was named Acadie, which is said to be derived from a local Indian word. De Monts sailed from Havre in April, with a motley company of im- pressed vagabonds, gentlemen-adventurers, and Huguenot and Catholic clergymen, the latter of whom quarrelled all the way over. After exploring parts of Nova Scotia and the Bay of Fundy, the voyagers ascended the Passamaquoddy Bay and the river to St. Croix Isle, where it was determined to found a settlement. Bat- teries were erected at each end, joined by palisades, within which were the houses of De Monts and Champlain, workshops, magazines, the chapel, and the barracks of the Swiss soldiery. But the winter soon set in with its intense cold, and the rav- ages of disease were added to the miseries of the colonists. 35 out of 79 men died of the scurvy during the winter ; and when a supply-ship arrived from France, in June, the island was abandoned. "It is meet to tell you how hard the isle of Sainte Croix is to be found out to them that never were there ; for there are so many isles and great bays to go by (from St. John) before one be at it, that I wonder how one might ever pierce so fiir as to find it. There ai-e three or four mountains imminent above the others, on the sides ; but on the N. side, from whence the river runneth down, there is but a sharp pointed one, above two leagues distant. The woods of the main land are fair and adm.irable high, and well grown, as in like manner is the grass Now let us pre- pare and hoist sails. M. de Poutrincourt made the voyage into these parts, with some men of good sort, not to winter there, but a,s it were to seek out his seat, and find out a land that might like him. AVhich he having done, had no need to sojourn there any longer." Late in the year, " the most urgent things being done, and hoary snowy father being come, that is to say. Winter, then they were forced to keep within doors, and to live every one at his own home. During which time our men had three special discommodities in this island : want of wood (for that which was in the said isle was spent in buildings), lack of fiesh water, and the continual watch made by night, fearing some surprise from the savages that had lodged them- selves at the foot of the said island, or some other enemy. For the malediction and rage of many Christians is such, that one must take heed of them much more than of infidels." (Lescarbot's Novvelle France.) In 1783 the river St. Croix was designated as the E. boundary of Maine, but the Americans claimed that the true St. Croix was the stream called the Magaguadavic. It then became important to find traces of De Monts's settlement of 180 years pre- vious, as that would locate the true St. Croix River. So, after long seai-ching among the bushes and jungle, the boundary-commissioners succeeded in finding remnants of the ancient French occupation on Neutral (Doucet's) Island, and thus fixed the line. About 10 M. above St. Andrews the river deflects to the W., and to the N. is seen the deep and spacious * Oak Bay, surrounded by bold hills, and forming a beautiful and picturesque prospect. It is supposed that the French explorers named the St. Croix River from the resemblance of its waters at this point to a cross, — the upright arm being formed by the river to the S. and Oak Bay to the N., while the horizontal arm is outlined by the river to the W. and a cove and creek on the E. At the head of the bay is the populous farming-village of Oak Bay, with three churches. Rounding on the 1. the bold bluff called Devil's Head (from one Duval, who formerly lived there), the course is laid to the N. W., in a narrow ST. STEPHEN. Routed. 35 channel, betvreen sterile shox-es. 2-3 M. above is the antiquated marine liamlet called The Ledge (1. bank), most of whose inhabitants are depend- ent on the sea for their livinc;- 4 M. above, the steamer reaches St. Stephen. St. Stephen (Queen Hotel) is an active and enterprising provincial town, at the head of navigation on the St. Croix River, opposite the American city of Calais, and the "W. terminus of the Grand Southern Railway (see page 25) from St. John (see also page 30 b). The population is 3,000, with 6 churches, 1 newspaper, and 2 banks. The business of St. Stephen is mostly connected with the manufacture and shipment of lumber. The falls of the river at this point give a valuable water-power, which will probably be devoted to general manufacturing purposes after the lumber supply begins to fail. A covered bridiie connects St. Stephen with Calais (The American House ; St. Croix Exchange), a small city of the State of Maine, with 6,000 inhabitants, 7 churches, 2 weekly papers, and 2 banks. Although under different flags, and separated by lines of customs-ofQcers, S:. Stephen and Calais form practically but one community, with identi- cal pursuits and interests. Their citizens have always lived in perfect fraternity, and formed and kept an agreement by which they abstained from hostilities during the War of 1812. At that time the authorities also restrained the restless spirits from the back country from acts of violence across the borders. 2-3 M. above is another Canado-American town, with large lumber-mills at the falls, which is divided by the river into Milltown-St. Stephen and Milltown-Calais. Travellers who cross the river either at Calais or Milltown will have their baggage looked into by the customs-officers, squads of whom are stationed at the ends of the bridges. A Railway runs N. from St. Stephen to Houlton and Woodstock (see Route 6). Calais is connected with the Sclioodic Lakes hv railway, a^id with Eastport by stages. The U. S. Mail-stage runs daily to Bangor, 95 M. W. (fare, S 7-50), passing through a wide tract of unoccupied wilderness. The steam- boat leaTes Calais or St. Stephen daily in summer, and semi weekly in winter, for Eastport, where it connects with the International steamships for Portland and Boston (see also Route 3, and New England). Fares, Calais to Portland, ®4.50 ; to Boston, by water, §5.50 ; to Boston, by rail from Portland, $ 7. The Schoudic Lakes. A railway runs 21 M. N. W. from Calais to Lew ey's Island (2 inns), in Princeton, whence the tourist ma}- enter the lovely and picturesque Sclioodic Lakes. The steamer Gipsey carries visitors 12 M. up the lake to Grand Lake Stream, one of the most famous fishing-grounds in America. The trout in Lewey's Lake have been nearly exterminated by the voracious pike, but the upper waters are more carefully guarded, and contain perch, pickerel, land-locked salmon, lake-trout, and fine speckled-trout. The Grand Lake Sti'eam is 3-4 M. long, and connects the Grand and Big Lakes with its rapid waters, in which are found many of the famous sil- very salmon-trout. The urban parties who visit these forest-lakes usually engage Indian guides to do the heavy work of portages and camp-build- 36 Route 6. SCHOODIC LAKES. ing, and to guide their course from lake to lake. There is a large village of the Passamaquoddy tribe near the foot of Big Lake. A two hours' portage leads to Grand Lake, a broad and beautiful forest-sea, with gravelly shores, picturesque islets, and transparent waters. The cry of the loon is often heard here, and a few bear and deer still lui-k along the shores. From Grand Lake a labyrinth of smaller and yet more remote lakes may be entered ; and portages conduct thence to the navigable tributaries of the Machias and Penobscot Rivers. " One of the most picturesque portions of the western Schoodic region is Grand Lake. This noble sheet of wateris broken here and there byislets,and surrounded, even to the water's edge, with forests of pine and hard wood, whilst its bottom is covered with granitic bowlders, which, in combination with drift, are spread far and wide among the arboreal vegetation around." " While the fog is lifting from Schoodic Lake, And the white trout are leaping for flies, It 8 exciting sport those beauties to take, Jogging the nerves and feasting the eyes." Genio C. Scott. 6. St. Andrews and St. Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton. Distances. — St. Andrews to Chamcook, 5 M. ; Bartlett's. 11 ; Waweig, 13 ; Roix Road, 15; Hewitt's, 19; Rolling Dam, 20; Dumbarton, 24; Watt Junction, 27 (St. Stephen to Watt Junction, 19) ; Lawrence, 29 ; Barber Dam, 34; McAdam Junction, 43 ; Deer Lake, 59 ; Canterbury. 65 ; Eel River, 75 ; Wickham, 80 ; Debec Junction, 90 (Houl on, 98); Hodgdon, 98 ; Woodstock, 101. The country traversed by this line is one of the most irredeemably des- olate regions in North America. The view from the car-windows pre- sents a continual succession of dead and dying forests, clearings bristling with stumps, and funereal clusters of blasted and fire-scorched tree-trunks. The traces of human habitation, which at wide intervals are seen in this gloomy land, are cabins of logs, where poverty and toil seem the fittest occupants; and Nature has withheld the hills and lakes with which she rudely adorns other wildernesses. The sanguine Dr. Gesner wrote a vol- ume inviting immigration to New BrunsAvick, and describing its domains in language which reaches the outer verge of complaisant optimism ; but in presence of the lands between the upper St. John and St. Stephen his pen lost its hyperbolical fervor. He says: " Excepting the intervales of the stream, it is necessary to speak with circumspection in regard to the general quality of the lands. Many tracts are fit for little else but pas- turage." This district is occupied, for the most part, by the remains of soft-wood forests, whose soils are always inferior to those of the hard- wood districts. P'or a short distance beyond St. Andrews the railway lies near tlie shores of Passamaquoddy Bay, affording pleasant views to the r. Tlien the great mass of Chamcook Mt. is passed, with its abrupt sides and rounded summit. Waweig is between Bonaparte Lake and Oak Bay (see page 34). About 7 M. beyond, the line approaches the Digdeguash ST. JOHN TO BANGOR. Route 7. 37 River, wliicli it follows to its source. At Watt Junction the St. Stephen Branch Railway comes in on the 1., and the train passe? ori to McAdani Junction, where it intersects the Canadian Pacific Railway, (page 38). There is a restaurant at this station, and the passenger will have time to dine while the train is waiting for the arrival of the trains from Bangor and from St. John. The forest is again entered, and the train passes on for 16 M. until it reaches the lumber-station at Deer Lake. The next station is Canter- bury, near the beautiful Skiff Lake. Running N. W. for 10 M., the Eel River is crossed, and at Dehtc Junction the passenger changes for Wood- stock. A train runs thence 8 M. N.W, to Houlton (Snell House), the shire- town of Aroostook County, Maine, with 4,000 inhabitants, 2 papers, opera house, electric lights, Avater-works, and a noble view from the old fort on Garrison Hill. The other train runs N. E. down the valley of the South Brook, and in about 6 M. emerges on the highlands above the valley of the St. John River. For the ensuing 5 M. there are beautiful views of the river and its cultivated intervales, presenting a wonderful contrast to the dreary region behind. The line soon reaches its terminus at the pretty village of Woodstock (see Route 11). 7. St. John to Bangor. Distances. — St. John; Carleton, | M. ; Fairville, 4; South Bay, 7; Grand Bay, 12; Westfield, 16: Nerepis,20; Welsford, 26; Clarendon, 30; Gaspereaux. 33; Enniskillen, 36; Hoyt, 39; Blissville, 42; Fredericton Junction, 46; Tracy, 49; Cork, 61; Harvey, 66; Magaguadavic , 76; McAdam Junction 85; St. Croix, 91; Vanceboro', 92; Jackson Brook, 112; Danforth, 117; Bancroft, 126; King- man, 139; Mattawamkeag, 147; Winn, 150; Lincoln Centre, 159; Lincoln, 161, Enfield, 170; Passadumkeag, 175; Olamon, 179; Greenbush, 182 : Costigan , 187', Milford, 192 ; Oldtown, 193 ; Great Works, 194: Webster, 196; Orono, 197; Basin Mills, 198 ; Veazie. 201 ; Bangor, 205. (Newport, 2-33 : Waterville, 260 ; Augusta, 281; Brunswick, 315; Portland, 343; Portsmouth, 395; Newburyport, 415; Bos- ton, 451.) The traveller takes the train at the terminal station. The line ascends through the North End, giving extensive views. The St. John River ia crossed near the Falls, on the great and lofty cantilever bridge of steel, built in lfe85. Formerly passengers were ferried across from Carleton to St. John. The train soon reaches Fairville, a growing town near the Provincial Lunatic Asylum and the Suspension Bridge. There are numerous lumber- mills here, in the coves of the river. The train sweeps around the South Bay on a high grade, and soon reaches the Grand Bay of the St. John River, beyond which is seen the deep estuary of the Kennebecasis Bay, with its environment of dark hills. The shores of the Long Reach are fol- lowed for several miles, with beautiful views on the r. over the placid river and its vessels and villages (see also page 41). To the W. is a sparsely settled and rugged region in which are many lakes, — Loch Alva, the Robin Hood, Sherwood, and the Queen's Lakes. 38 Route?. CHIPUTNETICOOK LAKES. The line leaves the Long Reach, and turns to the N. W. up the valley of the Nerepis River, which is followed as far as the hamlet of Welsford (small inn). The country now grows very tame and uninteresting, as the Douglas Valley is ascended. Clarendon is 7 M. from the Clarendon Set- tlement, with its new homes wrested from the savage forest. From Gas- pereaux a wagon conveys passengers to the South Oromocto Lake, 10-12 M S. W., among the highlands,' a secluded sheet of water about 5 M. long, abounding in trout. Beyond the lumber station of Enniskillen, the train passes the prosperous village of Blissville ; and at Fredericton Junction a connection is made for Fredericton, about 20 M. N. Tracy's Mills is the next stopping-place, and is a cluster of lumber-mills on the Oromocto River, which traverses the village. On either side are wide tracts of unpopulated wilderness; and after crossing the parish of New Maryland, the line enters Manners Sutton, pass(>,s the Cork Settle- ment, and stops at the Harvey Settlement, a rugged district occupied by families from the borders of England and Scotland. To the N. and N. W. are the Bear and Cranberry Lakes, affording good fishing. A road leads S. 7-8 M. from Haiwey to the Oromocto Lake, a fine sheet of water nearly 10 M. long and 3-4 M. wide, where many large trout are found. The neighboring forests contain various kinds of game. Near the N. W. shore of the lake is the small hamlet of Tweedside. The Bald Mountain, "near the Harvey Settlement, is a great mass of porphyry, with a lake (probably in the crater) near the summit. It is on the edge of the coal measures, where they touch the slate." Magaguadavic station is at the foot of Magaguadavic Lake, which is about 8 M. long, and is visited by sportsmen. On its E. shore is the low and bristling Magaguadavic Ridge; and a chain of smaller lakes lies to the N. The train now runs S. W. to McAdam Junction (restaurant in the sta- tion), where it intersects the railway from St. Andrews to Woodstock. 6 M. beyond McAdam, through a monotonous v,'ilderness, is St. Croix, on the river of the same name. After crossing the river the train enters the United States, and is visited by the customs-officers at Vanceboro' ( Vance- boro^ House). This is the station whence the beautiful lakes of the upper Schoodic may be visited. The Cliiputnetiroolt T akes are about 45 M. in length, in a N. W. course, find are from }^i to 10 M. in width. Their navigation is very intricate, by reason of tlie multitude of islets and islands, narrow passages, coves, and deep inlets, which diversity of land and water affords beautiful combinations of scenery. The islands are covered with cedar, hemlock, and birch trees; and the bold highlands which shadow the lakes are also well wooded. One of the most remarkable features of the scenery is the abundance of bowlders and ledges of fine white granite, either seen through the transparent waters or lining the shore like massive masonry. "Uni- versal gloom and stillness reign over these lakes and the forests around them." Beyond Vanceboro' the train passes through an almost unbroken wilder- ness for 55 M., during the last 16 M. following the course of the Matta- ST. JOHN RIVER. Routes. 39 wamkeag River. At Mattawamkeag the Canadian Pacific Railway goes oft to Moosehead Lalce and Montreal. The Maine Central Railway fol- lows the Penobscot River, traversing a succession of thinly populated lumbering towus. Forty-five niilt-s below Mattawamkeag, the Penobscot is crossed, and the train reaches Oldtown (two inns), a place of about 4,000 inhabitants, largely engaged in the lumber business. The traveller should notice here the immense and costly booms and mills, one of which is the largest in the world and has 100 saws at work cutting out planks. On an island just above Oldtown is the home of the Tarratine Indians, formerly the most powerful and warlike of the Northern tribes. They were at tirst well-dis- posed towards the colonists, but after a series of wrongs and insults they took up arms in 1678, and inflicted such terrible dam^e on the settlements that Maine be- came tributary to them by the Peace of Casco. After destroying the fortress of Pem- aquid to avenge an insult to their chief, St. Castin, they remained quiet for many years. The treaty of 1720 contains the substance of their present relations with the State. The declension of the tribe was marked for two centuries ; but it is now slowly increasing. The people own the islands in the Penobscot, and have a reve- nue of $6 - 7,000 from the State, which the men eke out by working on the lumber- rafts, and by hunting and fishing, while the women make baskets and other trifles for sale. The island- village is without streets, and consists of many small houses built around a Catholic church. There are over 400 persons here, most of whom are half-breeds. Below Oldtown the river is seen to be filled with booms and rafts of timber, and lined with saw-mills. At Orono is the State Agricultural College; and soon after passing Veazie the train enters the city of Bangor. For descriptions of Bangor, the Penobscot River, and the route to Bos- ton, see Sweetser's New England. 8. St. Jolm to Ff edericton. — The St. John River. The Steamers David Weston and Acadia, ot the Union Line, leave St. John (Indian- town) everv morning. See also Iloutes [) and 10. These vessels are comfortably fitted up for passengers, in the manner of the smaller boats on the Hudson River Dinner is served on bonrd ; aiid Fredericton is reached late in the afternoon. On Weane.=^day and Saturday travellers can ascend the river to Hampst^ad, 33 M., and return to St. John the same day on the boat bound down, which leaves FrederictOH at 8 A. M. The scenery of the St. John River is pretty, and has a pleasing pastoral quiet- ness. The elements of the landscapes are simple ; the settlements are few and small, and at no time will the traveller find his attention violently drawn to any passing object. There are beautiful views on the Long Reach, at Belleisle Bay, and during the approach to Fredericton, but the prevalent character of the scenery is that of quiet and restful rural lands, hy which it is pleasant to drift on a balmy summer-day. Certain provincial writers have done a mischief to the St. John by bestowing upon it too exti'avagant praise, thereby preparing a disappoint- ment for such as believed their report. One calls it " the Rhine of America," and another prefers it to the Hudson. This is wide exaggeration ; but if the traveller would enjoy a tranquillizing and luxurious journey throug i a ptetty farming coun- try, abounding in mild diversity of scenery, he should devote a day to this river. Distances. — (The steamboat-landings bear the names of their owners, and the following itinerary bears reference rather to the villages on the shores than to the stopping-places of the boats.) St. John; Brundage's Point, 10 M. ; Westfield, 17 ; Greenwich Hill, 19; Oak Point, 25; Long Reach, 26; Tennant's Cove (Belleisle Bay), 29; Wickham, 32; Hampstead, 33; Otnabog, 41; Gagetown, 50; Upper Gagetown, 58 ; Maugerville, 72 ; Oromocto, 75 ; Glasier's, 81 ; Fredericton, 86. Pares. — St. John to Fredericton, $1. 40 Routes. KENNEBECASIS BAY. This river was called Looshtook (Long River) by the Etchemin Indians, and Ouangoudie "by the Micmacs. It is supposed to have been visited by De Monts, or other explorers at an early day, and in the commission of the year 1598 to the Lieut -General of Acadia it is called La Riviere de la Grande Baie. But no exam- ination was made of the upper waters until St. John's Day, 1604, when the French fleet under De Moots and Poutrincourt entered the great river. In honor of the saint on whose festival the exploration was begun, it was then entitled the St. John. After spending several weeks in ascending the stream and its connected waters, the discoverers sailed away to the south, bearing a good report of the chief river of Acadia. De Monts expected to find by this course a near route to Tadousac, on the Saguenay, and therefore sailed up as far as the depth of water would permit. " The extent of this river, the fish with which it was filled, the grapes growing on its banks, and the beauty of its scenery, were all objects of wonder and admiration." At a subsequent day the fierce struggles of the French seigneurs were waged on its shores, and the invading fleets of New England furrowed its tranquil waters. The St. John is the chief river of the Maritime Provinces, and is over 450 M. in length, being navigable for steamers of 1,000 tons for 90 M., for light-draught steamers 270 M. (with a break at the Grand Falls), and for canoes for nearly its entire extent. It takes its rise in the great Maine forest, near the sources of the Penobscot and the Chaudiire ; and from the lake which heads its S. W Branch the Indian voyageurs carry their canoes across the Mejarmette Portage and launch them in the Chaudiere, on which they descend to Quebec. Flowing to the N. E. for over 150 M. through the Maine forest, it receives the Allagash, St. Francis, and other large streams ; and from the mouth of the St. Francis nearl.y to the Grand Falls, a distance of 75 M., it forms the frontier between the United States and Canada. It is the chief member in that great system of rivers and lakes which has won for New Brunswick the distinction of being " the most finely watered country in the world.'" At Madawaska the course changes from N. E to S. E , and the sparsely settled N. W. counties of the Province are traversed, with large tributaries coming in on either side. During the last 50 M. of its course it receives the waters of the gTeat basins of the Grand and Washademoak Lakes and the Belleisle and Kennebecasis Bays, which have a parallel direction to the N. E., and afford good facilities for inland navigHtion. The tributary streams are connected with those of the Gulf and of the Bay of Chaleur by short portages (which will be mentioned in connection with their points of departure). Immediately after leaving the dock at St. John a tine retrospect is given of the dark chasm below, over which the light and graceful suspen- sion-bridge and the railway steel cantilever bridge are placed. Running up by Point Pleasant, the boat ascends a narrow gorge with high and abrupt banks, at whose bases are large lumber-mills. On the r. is Boards Head, a picturesque rocky promontory, in whose sides are quarries of lime- stone; 3-4 M. above Indiantown the broad expanse of Grand Bay is en- tered, and South Bay is seen opening on the I. rear. The Kennebecasis Bay is now seen, opening to the N E. This noble sheet of water is from 1 to 4 M. wide, and is naA'igable for large vessels for over 20 M. It receives the Kennebecasis and Hammond Rivers, and contains several islands, the chief of which, Long Island, is 5 M. long, and is opposite the village of Rothesay (see page 22). The E. shore is fol- lowed for many miles by the track of the Intercolonial Railway. The testimony of the rocks causes scientists to believe that the St. John formerly emptied by two mouths, — through the Kennebecasis and the Marsh Yalley, and through South Bay into Manawagouish Bay, — and that the breaking down of the present channel through the lofty lulls AV. of St. John is an event quite recent in geological history. The Indians still preserve a tradition that thi.s barrier of hills was once unbroken and served to divert the stream. LONG REACH. Route S. 41 On the banks of the placid Ivennebecasis the ancient Micmac legends locate the home of the Great Beaver, "feared by beasts and men," whom Glooscap finally conquered and put to death. In thi- vicinity dwelt the two Great Brothei-s, Gloos- cap and Malsunsis, of unknown origin and invincible power. Glooscap knew that his brother was vulnerable only by th-e touch of a fern-root ; and he had told Mal- sunsis (falsely) that the stroke of an owUs feather would kill him. It came to pass that Malsunsis determined to kill his brother (whether temp ed thus by Mik-o, the Squirrel, or by Quah-bcct-e-sis, the son of the Great Beaver, or by his own evil am- bition) : wherefore with his arrow he shot Koo-koo-skoos, the Owl, and with one of his feathers struck the sleeping Glooscap. Then he awoke, aild reproached Malsun- sis, but afterwards told him tiiat a blow from the root of a pine would kill him. Then the traitoi'ous man led his brother on a hunting excursion for into the forest, and while he slept he smote him with a pine-root. But the cautious Glooscap ai-ose unharmed, and drove Malsunsis forth into the forest ; then sat down by the brook- side and said to himself, " Naught but a flowering rush can kill me." Musquash, the Beaver, hidden among the sedge, heard these words and reported them to Mal- sunsis, who promised to do unto him even as he should ask. Therefore did Mus- quash say, " Give unto me wings like a pigeon." But the warrior answered, " Get thee hence, thou with a tail like a file ; what need hast thou of pigeon-s wings ] " and went on his way. Then the Beaver was angry, and went forth unto the camp of Glooscap, to whom he told what he had done. And by reason of these tidings, Glooscap arose and took a root of fern and sought Malsunsis in the wide and gloomy forest ; and when he had found him he smote him so that he fell down dead. " And Glooscap sang a song over him and lamented." Now, therefore, Glooscap ruled all beasts and men. And there came unto him three bi'others seeking that he would give them great strength and long life and much stature. Then asked he of them whether they wished these things that they might benefit and counsel men and be glorious in battle. But they said, " No; we seek not the good of men, nor care we for others." Then he offered unto them suc- cess in battle, knowledge and skill in diseases, or wisdom and subtlety in counsel. But they would not hearken unto him. Therefore did Glooscap wax angry, and said: "Go j'our ways; you shall have strength and stature and length of days." And while they were yet in the way, rejoicing, "lo I their feet became rooted to the ground, and their legs stuck together, and their necks shot up, and they were turned into three cedar-trees, strong and tall, and enduring beyond thedaysof men, but destitute alike of all glory and of all use." Occasional glimpses of the railway are obtained on the 1., and on the r. is the large island of Kennebecasis, which is separated from the Kingston peninsula by the Milkish Channel. Then the shores of Land's End are passed on the r. ; and on the 1. is the estuary of the Nerepis River. At this point the low (but rocky and alpine) ridge of the Nerepis Hills crosses the river, running N. E. to Bull Moose Hill, near the head of Belleisle Bay. The steamer now changes her course from N . W. to N. E , and enters the Long Rcacli, a broad and straight expanse of the river, 16 M. long and 1-3 M. wide. The shores are high and bold, and the scenery has a lake- like character. Beyond the hamlets of Westfield and Greenwich Hill, on the 1. bank, is the rugged and forest-covered ridge known as the Devil's Back, an off-spur of the minor Alleghany chain over the Nerepis Valley. Abreast of the wooded Foster's Island, on the E. shore, is a small ham- let clustered about a tall-spired church. Caton's Island is just above Fos- ter's, and in on the W. shore is seen the pretty little village of Oak Point (Lacey's inn), with a lighthouse and the spire of the Episcopal church of St, Paul, Farther up is the insulated intervale of Grassy Island, famou? 42 Routes. BELLEISLE BAY. foi' its rich hay, which may be seen in autumn stacked all along the shore. The steamer now passes through the contracted channel off Mistaken Point, Avhere the river is nearly closed b_y two narrow peninsulas which project towards each other from the opposite shores. Belleisle Bay turns to the N. E. just above Mistaken Point. The estuarj^ is nearly hidden by a low island and b.y a rounded promontory on the r. , beyond which the bay extends to the N. E for 12 - 14 M. , with a uniform width of 1 M. It is navi- g..ble for the largest vessels, and is bordered by wooded hills. On the S. shore near the mouth is Kingston Creek, which leads S. in about 5 M. to Kingston (two inns), a sequestered village of 200 inhabitants, romantically situated among the hills in the centre of the peninsular parish of Kingston. This peninsula preserves an almost uniform width of 5 - 6 M. for 30 M , between the Kennebecasis Bay and river on the S. E. and the Long Reach and Belleisle Bay on the N. W. The scenery, though never on a grand scale, is pleasant and bold, and has many line water views. A few miles E. of Kingston is the i-emarkable lakelet called the Pickivaakeft , occu- pying an extinct crater and surrounded by volcanic rocks. This district was origi- nally settled by American Loyalists, and for many years Kingston was the capital of Kings County. The village is most easily reached from Rothesay (see page 22). TennariVs Cove is a small Baptist village at the N. of the entrance to the bay; whence a road leads in 5 M. to the hamlet of Belleisle Bay on the N. shore (nearly opposite Long Point village) ; from which the bay road runs in 3-4 M. to the larger Baptist settlement at Spragg's Point, whence much cord-wood is sent to St John. 4 M. beyond is Springfield (small inn), the largest of the Belleisle villages, situated near the head of the bay, and 7 M. from Norton, on the Intercolonial Railway (Route 16). At the head of the Long Reach a granite ridge turns the river to the N. and N. W. and narrows it for several miles. 4-5 M. above Belleisle Bay Spoon Island is passed, above which, on the r. bank, is the shipbuilding hamlet of WicTcliam. A short distance beyond, on the W. bank, is Hamp- stead, with several mills and a granite-quarry. The shores of the river now become more low and level, and the fertile meadows of Long Island are coasted for nearly 5 M. This pretty island is dotted with elm-trees, and contains two large ponds. On the mainland (W. shore), near its head, is the hamlet of Otnabog, at the mouth of a river which empties into a lake 3 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, connected with the St. John by a narrow passage. The boat next passes the Lower Musquash Island, containing a large pond, and hiding the oiitlet of the Washademoak Lake (see Route 9). " This part of the Province, including the lands around the Grand Lake and along the Washademoak, must become a very populous and rich country. A great propor- tion of the land is intervale or alluvial, and coal is found in great plenty, near the Grand Lake No part of America can exhibit greater beauty or more luxuriant fertility than the lands on each side, and the islands that we pass in this distance." (McGregor's British America.) After passing the Upper Musquash Island, the steamboat rounds in at Gagetown (2 inns), a village of 300 inhabitants, prettily situated on the W. bank of the river. It is the shire-town of Queen's County, and is the shipping- point for a broad tract of forming-country. After leaving this point, tlie steamer passes between Grimross Neck (1.) and the level shores of Cam- bridge (r.), and runs by the mouth of the Jemseg Kiver. About the year 1640 the French seigneur erected at t'le mouth of the Jemseg a fort, on whose ramparts were 12 iron guns and 6 " murtherers." It was provided MAUGERVILLE. RoiUe 8. 43 •with a court of guard, stone barracks and magazines, a garden, and a chapel "6 paces square, with a bell weighing 18 pounds." In 1654 it was captured by an expedition sent out by Oliver Cromwell ; but was yielded up by Sir Thomas Temple to the Seigneur de Soulanges et Marson in 1670. In 1674 it was taken and plundered by " a Flemish corsair." The Seigniory of Jemseg was granted by the French (h-own to the ancient Breton family of Damour des ChafTour. In 1686 it was occupied by the seignorial fanuly, and iu 1698 there were 50 persons settled here under its auspices. In 1739 the lordship of this district was held by the Marquis de Vaudreuil, who had 116 colonists iu the domain of Jemseg. In 1692 it was made the capital of Acadia, under the command of M. de Villebon ; and after the removal of the seat of govern- ment to Fort Xashwaak (Frederic ton), the Jemseg fort suffered the vicissitudes of British attack, and was finally abandoned. About the year 1776, 600 Indian warriors gathered here, designing to devastate the St. John vallc}', but were deterred by the resolute front made by the colonists from the Oromocto fort, and were finally ap- peased and quieted by large presents. The Jemseg River is the outlet of Grand Lake (see Route 10). Beyond this point the steamer runs N. W. by Grimross Island, and soon passes the hamlets of Canning (r.) and Upper Gagetown (1.). Above Mauger's Island is seen the tall spire of Burton church, and the boat calls at Sheffield, the seat of the Sheffield Academy. " The whole river- front of the parishes of Maugerville, Sheffield, and Water- borough, an extent of nearly 30 M., is a remarkably fine alluvial soil, exactly re- sembling that of Battersea fields and the Twickenham meadows, stretching from the river generally about 2 M. This tract of intervale, includiag the three noble islands opposite, is deservedly called the Garden of New Brunswick, and it is by far the most considerable tract of alluvial soil, formed by fresh water, in the Province." Above Sheffield the steamer passes Middle Island, which is 3 M. long, and produces much hay, and calls at Maugerville, a quiet lowland village of 300 inhabitants. On the opposite shore is Oromocto (two inns), the capital of Sunbury County, a village of 400 inhabitants, engaged in ship- building. It is at the mouth of the Oromocto River, which is navigable for 22 M. The settlement of Maugerville was the first which was formed by the English on the St. John River. It was established in 1763 by families from Massachusetts and Connecticut, and had over 100 families in 1775. In May, 1776, the inhabitants of Sunbury County assembled at Maugerville, and resolved that the colonial policy of the British Parliament was wrong, that the United Provinces wei-e justified in re- sisting it, that the county should be attached to Massachusetts, and that men and money should be raised for the American service : saying also, " we are Heady with our Lives and fortunes to Share with them the Event of the present Struggle for Liberty, however God in his Providence may order it." These resolutions were signed by all but 12 of the people ; and Massachusetts soon sent them a quantity of ammunition. At a later day Col. Eddy, with a detachment of Mass. troops, ascended the St. John River to Maugerville, where he met with a warm welcome and was joined by nearly 50 men. Oromocto was in early days a favorite resort of the Indians, one of whose great cemeteries has recently been found here When the hostile tribes concentrated on the Jemseg during the Revolutionary War, and were preparing to devastate the river-towns, the colonists erected a large fortification near t\\Q mouth of tlae Oromocto, and took refuge there. Taey made such a bold front that the Indians retired and disbanded, after having reconnoitred the works. " The rich meadows are decorated with stately elms" and forest trees, or sheltered by low coppices of cranberry, alder, and other native bushes. Through the numer- ous openings in the shrubbery, the visitor, in traversing the river, sees the white fronts of the cottages, and other buildings ; and, from the constant change of posi- tion, in saihng, an almost endless variety of scenery is presented to the traveller's eye. During the summer season the surface of the water affords an interesting 44 RunU 8. FREDERICTON. spectacle. Vast rafts of timber and logs are slowly moved downwards by the cur- rent. Numerous canoes and boats are in motion, while the paddles of the steamboat break the polished surface of the stream and send it rippling to the shore In the midst of this laud^cape stands Fredericton, situated on an obtuse level point formed by the bending of the river, and in the midst of natural and cultivated scenery." (Gesner.) Fredericton. Hotels. — Queen Hotel ; Barker House, Queen St. , % 2.50 a day. St , 3? 1.50 a day ; Long"s Hotel. ^ 1.50 ; Commercial Hotel, and others. Stages leave tri-weekly for Woodstock (62 M. : fare, S2.50). RaiL\va> s. — to St. John, in 66 M., fare ^ 2. to Woodstock (63 M.), Aroostook, Edmundston (176 M ), and Riviere du Loup. Fare to Woodstock, $2.00 (pafj:e 50). Canada Eastern Railway, to Chatham (116 M.), see page 47. The railway bridge over the St. Joan (finished in 1888) made possible a union station at Fredericton. Steamboats. — Daily to St John, stopping at the river-ports. Fare. .? 1 00. In spring, early summer, and autumn, when the river has enough water, the steam- boat Florenceville runs from Fredericton 65-70 M. N. W. to Woodstock. FREDEKiCTO>f, the Capital of the Province of New BniTiswiclv, is a small city pleasantly situated on a level plain near the St. John River. It has 6,500 inhabitants, with five newspapers and four banks. It is prob- ably the quietest place, of its size, north of the Potomac River. The streets are broad and airy, intersecting each other at right angles, and are lined with line old shade trees. The city has few manufacturing interests, but serves as a shipping-point and depot of supplies for the young settle- ments to the N. and W. Its chief reason for being is the presence of the offices of the Provincial Government, for which it was founded. Queen St. is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and runs nearly parallel Avith the river At its W. end is the Government House, a plain and spa- cious stone building situated in a pleasant park, and used for the official residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of New Brunswick. Nearly in the middle of the city, and between Queen St. and the river, are the Military Grounds and Parade-ground, with the large barracks (accommodating 1,000 men), which were formerly the headquarters of the British army in this Province. Near the E. end of Queen St. is the Parliament Bmldiny, a handsome modern freestone structure, from who^^e top a fine view is obtained. It contains the spacious halls of the Lower House, Legislative Council, and Supreme Court (with its law librar}-). The Legislative Librar}', in a fire-proof building adjacent, contains 15,000 volumes, includ- ing Louis Philippe's copy of Audubon's ''Birds" (open during session, and on Wednesday afternoons). The chief wealth of Fredericton is em- ployed in lumbering, and there are great booms above and below the city, with an important British and West-Indian trade. * Christ Church Cathedral is a short distance beyond the Parlianient Building, and is embowered in a grove of fine old trees near the river (corner of Chui'ch and Queen Sts.). It is under the direct care of the Anglican Bishop of Fredericton, and its style of construction is modelled FREDERICTON. Route 8. 45 after a certain charming old parish-church in England. The beauty of the English Gothic architecture, as here wrought out in fine gray stone, is heightened by the picturesque effect of the surrounding trees. A stone spire, 178 ft. high, rises from the junction of the nave and transepts. The interior is beautiful, though small, and the chancel is adorned with a superb window of Newcastle stained-glass, presented by the Episcopal Church in the United States. It represents, in the centre, Christ cruci- fied, with SS. John, James, and Peter on the 1., and SS. Thomas, Philip, and Andrew on the r. In the cathedral tower is a chime of 8 bells, each of which bears the inscription : " Ave Pater, Rex, Creator, Ave Simplex, Ave Trine, Ave Fill, Lux, Salvator, Ave Regnuns in Sublime, Ave Spiritus Consolator, Ave Resonet sine tine, Ave Beata Unitas. Ave Sancta Trinitas." St. Ann's is a pretty Episcopal Church, at the W. end; and in 1883 the Baptists and Presbyterians erected fine stone churches. Between Queen St. and the river are the substantial Citj^ Hall and Post-Office, ai.d the well-equipped Normal School, where the teachers of tlie Province are trained. The University of Neio Bninsicich is a substantial freestone building, 170 ft. long and 60 ft. wide, occupying a fine position on the hills which sweep around the city on the S. It was established by royal charter in 1828, while Sir Howard Douglas ruled the Province; and was for many years a source of great strife between the Episcopalians and the other sects, the latter making objection to the absorption by the Anglicans of an institu- tion which had been paid for by the whole people. It is fairly endowed by the Province, and does an important Avork in carrying on the higher education of the country, despite the competition of denominational col- leges. The view from the University is thus described by Prof. Johnston : '• From the high ground above Fredericton I again felt how very delightful it is t# feast the eyes, weary of stony barrens and iierpetual pines, upon the beautiful rivcv. St John Calm, broad, clear, just visibly flowing on ; full to its banks, and re- flecting from its surface the graceful American elms which at intervals fringe its shores, it has all the beauty of a long lake without its lifelessness. But its acces- sories are as yet chiefly those of nature, — wooded ranges of hiUs varied in outline, now retiring from and now approaching the water's edge, with an occasional clear- ing, and a rare white-washed house, with its still more rarely visible inhabitants, and stray cattle In some respects this view of the St. John recalled to my mind some of the points on the Russian river (Neva) : though among European scenery, in its broad waters and forests of pines, it most resembled the tamer por- tions of the sea-arms and fiords of Sweden and Norway." St. ^[nry's and Nasliicaahsis are opposite Fredericton, on the 1. bank (f the St. John, and are reached by bridges. Tliey are on the New Bruns- Avick Railway (to Woodstock). At Marysville are the great lumber-mills and cotton-mills of Alex. Gibson, with the stately church and comfortable homes which he has erected for his workmen. Nearly opposite the city is seen the mouth of the Nashwaak River, whose valley was settled bv disbanded soldiers of ihe old Black Watch (42d Highlanders). 46 Route 8. FREDEEICTON. In the year 1690 the French goTernment sent out the Chevalier de Yillehon as Governor of Acadia. When he arrived at Port Royal (Annapolis), his capital, he found that Sir William Phipps's New-England fleet had recently captured and de- stroyed its fortifications, so he ascended the St. John River and soon fixed his capi- tal at Nashwaak, where he remained for several years, organizing Indian forays on the settlements of Maine. In October, 1696, an Anglo-American army ascended the St. John in the ships Arundel, Frovince, and others, and laid siege to Fort Nashwaak. The Chevalier de Villebon drew up his garrison, and addressed them with enthusiasm, and the de- tachments were put in charge of the Sieurs de la Cote, Tibierge, and Clignancourt. The British royal standard was displayed over the besiegers' works, and for three dajs a heavy fire of artillery and musketry was kept up. The precision of the fire from La Cote's battery dismounted the hostile guns, and after seeing the Sieur de Falaise reinforce the fort from Quebec, the British gave up the siege and retreated down the river. The village of St. Anne was erected here, under the protection of Fort Nashwaak. Its site had been visited by De Monts in 1604, during his exploration of the river. In 1757 (and later) the place was crowded with Acadian refugees fleeing from the stern visitations of angry New England on the Minas and Port Roj^al districts. In 1784 came the exiled American Loyalists, who drove away the Acadians into the wilderness of Madawaska, and settled along these shores. During the following year Gov. Carleton established the capital of the Province here, in view of the central location and pleasant natural features of the place. Since the formation of the Canadian Dominion, and the consequent withdrawal of the British garrison, Fredericton has become dormant. 7 M. above Fredericton is Aukpaqiie, the favorite home-district of the ancient Indians of the river. The name signifies " a beautiful expanse of the river caused by numerous islands." On the island of Sandous were the fortifications and quar- ters of the American forces in 1777, when the St. John River was held by the expe- dition of Col. Allan. They reached Aukpaque on the 5th of June, and saluted the new American flag with salvos of artillery, while the resident Indians, under Am- brose St. Aubin, their "august and noble chief," welcomed them and their cause. They patrolled the river with guard-boats, aided the patriot residents on the banks, and watched the mouth of St. John harbor. After the camp on Aukpaque had been established about a month it was broken up by a British naval force from below, and Col. Allan led away about 500 people, patriot Provincials, Indians, and their families. This great exodus is one of the most romantic and yet least known incidents of the American borders. It was conducted by canoes up the St. John to the ancient French trading-post called Fort Meductic, whence they carried their boats, families, and household goods across a long portage ; then they ascended the rapid Eel River to its reservoir-lake, from whose head another portage of 4 M. led them to North Pond. The long procession of exiles next defiled into the Grand Lake and encamped for several "days at its outlet, after which they descended the Chiputneticook Lake and the St. Croix River, passed into tlie Lower Schoodic I-ake, and thence carried their families and goods to the head-waters of the Machias River. Floating down that stream, they reached Machias i in time to aid in beating off the British squadron from that town. 1 Machias is said to be derived from the French word Mages (meaning the Magi , and it is held that it was discovered by the ancient French explorers on the Festival of the 3Iagi. WASHADEMOAK LAKE. Route 9. 47 From Fredericton to the Miramichi. By the Canada Eastern Railway. Stations. — (iibson (Fredericton) to Marysville, 3 M. ; Durham, 14; Cross Creek, 25 : Hoiestown, 47 ; Doaktowu, 63; Blissfield, 67; Blackville, 87 ; Chatham Junction, 105 ; Chatham, 116. This route traverses the lonely forest for many leagues, through a thinly settled country. To the west are the immense domains of tlie Xew Brunswick Land Company, on which a few struggling; settle- ments are located. In the earlier days there was a much-travelled route between the St. John valley and the Miramichi waters, by way of the Nashwaak River, from whose upper waters a portage was made to the adjacent streams of the Miramichi (see " Vacation Tourists," for 1862-3, pp. 464-474). Forty-seven miles from Fredericton the line reaches Boies- town (small inn), a lumbering-village of 250 inhabitants, on the S. W. Miramichi River. This place was founded in 1822, by Thomas Boies and 120 Americans, but has become decadent si_ce the partial exhaustion of the forests. 9. Washademoak Lake. c „ .,.>io-'5 no-a«inri'>ll'' rnn from St. John to this point, a di.stance of 60 M. A regular line formerly plied on this route, but it. yvas given up some years since. Ill l:^90 steum.rs ran from St. Johu to Cole's Islund thrice a weirk. The steamboat ascends the St. John River (see page 39) to the upper end of Long Island, where it turns to the N. E. in a narrow passage be- tween the Lower Musquash Island and the shores of Wickham. On either side are wide rich intervales, over which the spring inundations spread fertilizing soil; and the otherwise monotonous landscape is enlivened by clusters of elms and maples. After following this passage for 1^ M., the steamer enters the Washademoak Lake, at this point nearly 2 M. wide. The Washademoak is not properly a lake, but is the bi'oadening of the river of the same name, which maintains a width of from ^ M. to 2 M, from Cole's Island to its mouth, a distance of 25-30 M, It is deep and still, and has but little current. In the spring-time and autumn rafts de- scend the lake from the upper rivers and from the head-waters of the Cocagne, and pass down to St. John. The scenery is rather tame, being that of alluvial lowlands, diversified only by scattered trees. There are 10 small hamlets on the shores, with from 150 to 250 inhabitants each, most of them being on the E. shore. The people are engaged in farming and in freighting cord-wood to St. John. About 6 M. above McDonald's Point, Lewis Cove opens to the S. E., running down for about 3 M. into the parish of Wickham ; and 4-5 M. farther on are the Narrows, where the lake is nearly cut in two by a bold bluff projecting from the E. shore. Cole's Island has about 200 inhabitants, and a small hotel. It is 20 M. 48 Route 10. GRAND LAKE. from Apohaqui, on the Intercolonial Railway. Roads run across the pe- ninsula on the N. W. to Grand Lake in 5-7 M. It is 38 M. from Cole's Island to Petitcodiac, on the Intercolonial Railway, by way of Brookvale, 'J'he Forks, and New Canaan. The Washademoak region has no attrac- tions for the summer tourist, 10. Grand Lake. The river-steamer leaves St. John (IndiaDtown) on ATednesday and Satur- day, for Grind Lake and Salmon River. The distance is 85 M. ; the fare is $1.50. She leaves Salmon River on Mo day and Thursday moruings. A railway runs from Norton, on the Intercolonial line, to Grand Lake. Grand Lake is 30 M. long and from 3 to 9 M. wide. It has a tide of 6 inches, caused by the backwater of the St. John River, thrown up by the high tides of the Bay of Fundy. The shores are low and uninteresting, and are broken by several deep coves and estuaries. There are numerous hamlets on each side, but they are all small and have an air of poverty. It is reasonably hoped, however, that these broad alluvial plains will be- come, in a few decades, the home of a large and prosperous population. The lands in this vicinity -were granted at an early date to the Sieur de Freneuse, a young Parisian, the son of that Sieur de Clignancourt who was so active in settling the St. John valley and in defending it against the New-En glanders. On Charle- voix's map (dated 1744) Grand Lake is called Lac Freneuse, a.ud a village of the same name is indicated as being a few miles to the N. These shores were a favorite camp- ing-ground of the ancient Milicete Indians, whose descendants occasionally visit Grand Lake in pursuit of muskrats. The lumber business, always baneful to the agricultural interests of a new country, has slackened on account of the exhaustion of the forests on the Salmon River ; audit is now thought that a farming population will erelong occupy the Grand Lake country. The steamer ascends the St. John River (see page 39) as far as Gage- town, where it makes a brief stop (other landings on the lower river are sometimes visited). She then crosses to the mouth of the Jemseg (see page 43), where the Jemseg River is entered, and is followed through its narrow, tortuous, and picturesque course of 4 M. This is the most inter- esting part of the journey. When nearly through the passage the boat stops before the compact hamlet of Jemseg, occupjnng the slope of a hill on the r. On entering the lake, a broad expanse of still water is seen in front, with low and level shores denuded of trees. On the 1. is Scotch- town (150 inhabitants), near which is a channel cut through the alluvium, leading (in 2 M.) to Maquajnt Lake, Avhich is 5 M. long and 2-3 M. wide. This channel is called the Thoroughfare ; is passable by large boats; and leads through groves of elm, birch, and maple trees. 1 M. from the W. end of Maquapit Lake is French Lake, accessible by another " Thorough- fare," and 3-4 M. long, nearly divided by a long, low point. This lake is 5-6 M. from Sheffield, on the St. John River. The channel is marked out by poles rising from the flats on either side. (The course of the steamer is liable to variation, and is here described as followed by the Editor.) Robinson's Point is first visited, with its white GRAND LAKE. Route 11. 49 Jighthouse rising from the E. sho"e ; and tlie steamer passes around into TTV^Ve'.-? Core, where there is a farming settlement of 200 inliulntants. Tlience the hike is crossed to the N. to Kcijliole, a curious little harbor near the villages of Maquapit and Douglas Harbor. After visiting Mill Cove and Wiggin's Cove, on the E. shore, and Young's Cove (2 inns), the boat rounds Cumberland Point and ascends the deep Cumberland Bay, at whose head is a populous farming settlement. On the way out of the bay- Cox's Point is visited, and then the narrowing waters at the head of the lake are entered. At Newcasilt and other points in this vicinity, attempts have been made at coal-mining. The coal district about the head of Grand Lake covers an area of 40 square miles, and the coal is said to be of good quality and in thick seams. But little has yet been done in the way of mining, owing to the difficulty of transporting the coal to market. Soon after passing Newcastle Creek the steamer ascends the N. E. arm, rounds a long, low point, and enters the Salmon River. This stream is ascended for several miles, amid the depressing intluences of ruined for- ests not yet replaced by farms. Beyond Ironbouud Cove and the Coal Mines, the boat ties up for the lught at a backwoods settlement, where the traveller must go ashore and sleep in a room reserved for wayfarers in an adjacent cottage. Brigg's Corner is at the head of navigation , and a road runs thence N. E. across the wilderness to Richibucto, in 50-60 M. It is stated by good autliorit}' th^t the fishing in the !?almon River lias been ruined by the lumber-mills ; but that very good sport maj' be found on the Lake Stream, 15-20 M beyond Brigg's Corner. Visitors to this district must be provided with full camp-equipage A road also leads N. W. from Brigg's Corner (diverging from the Richibucto road at Gaspereau) to Blis.sville, on the S. W. Miramichi, in about 40 M. U. Fredericton to Woodstock. stations. — Gibson ; St Mary's, 1 M ; Douglas, 3; Springhill, 5|; Rockland, 10; Keswick, 12; Cardigan, 16J ; Lawrence, I7i ; Zealand, 20; Stoncridge, 22^; Bumside, 25 ; Upper Keswick, 28i ; Burt Lake, 32 ; Haynesville, 36^ ; Millville, 38i ; Nackawic,43; Falls Brook, 48; Woodstock Junction, 52; Newburgh, 57; River- side, 60 ; Northampton, 61i. Fare from Fredericton to Woodstock, .f 1.75. Beyond Woodstock Junction the Railway runs N. to Ilartland (61 M. from Fredericton) and to Florenceville (71 M.), and thence to Tobique and the upper St. John valley. The traveller crosses the St. John River by the new railway bridge from Fredericton to St. Mary's. As the train moves out, very attractive 3 D LO Route 11. FREDERICTON TO WOODSTOCK. glimpses of Fredericton are obtained on the 1., and at 2 M. out the Nash- waaksis Kivev is crossed. Then the train advances rapidly, and there follows a succession of beautiful views (to the 1.) over the wide and placid St. John, dotted with numerous large and level islands, upon which are clusters of graceful trees. On the farther shore is seen the village of Springhill (see page 51) ; and the broad expanse of Sugar Island crosses the river a little way above. At about 10 M. from Fredericton the line changes its course from W. to N. W., and leaves the St. John valley, ascending the valley of the Keswick, — a district which is beginning to show the rewards of the arduous labors of its early pioneers. The Keswick Valley was settled in 17E3, by the disbanded American-loyalist corps of New York and the Royal Guides, and their descendants ai'e now attacking the remoter back-country. The Keswick flows through a pleasant region, and has bold features, the chief of which is the escarped wall of sandstone on the 1. bank, reaching for 8-10 M. from its mouth. From Cardigan station a road leads into the old Welsh settlement of Cardigan. The line next passes several stations on the old domain of the New Brunswick Land Company, an association which was incorporated by royal charter before 1840, and 1 urchased from the Crown 550,000 acres in York County. They established their ca] ital and chief agency at the village of Stanley, opened roads through the forest, settled a large com] any of people from the Isle of Skye uj.ou their lands, and expended S 500 ,000 in vain atteni] ts to colonize this district. The country now traversed by the line seems desolate and unpromising, and but few signs of civilization are visible. This forest-land is left be- hind, and the open valley of the St. John is approached, beyond New- hurgh. For the last few miles of the journey beautiful views are given from the high grades of the line, including the river and its intervales and surrounding hills. The St. John River is crossed by a long wooden rail- way bridge. Woodstocl: (Wilbur House ; Exchange), the capital of Carleton County, is situated at the confluence of the St. John and Meduxnekeag Rivers, in the centre of a thriving agricultural district. The population is over 3,000, and the town is favorably situated on a high bluff above the Si. John River. The Episcopal Church of St. Luke and the Catholic Church of St. Gertrude are on Main St., where are also the chief buildings of the town. The academy called Woodstock College is located here. The country in this vicinity is verj^ attractive in summer, and is possessed of a rich rural beauty which is uncommon in these Provinces. The soil is a calcareous loam, producing more fruit and cereal grains than any other partof New Brunswick. The bold blniTs over the St. John are generally well- wooded, and the intervales bear much hay and grain. Tlierc are largo saw- mills at the month of the ^Meduxnekeag, where the timber wliirh is rut on its upper Avaters, in jMaine, is made into lumber. 12 JNI. fnnn Woodstock WOODSTOCK. Route 12. 51 is the American village oT Houlton, the capital of Aroostook County, Maine; and the citizens of the two towns are in such close social relations that Woodstock bears great resemblance to a Yankee town, both in its archi- tecture and its society. " Of tluMinality of the Woodstock iron it is impossible to spe.k too highly, espe- cially for uiakiuiT ste*'I, aud it is eagerly sought by tiie armor-plate manufacturers in England. On six different trials, plates of Woodstock iron were only sUgiitly in- dented by an Armstrong shot, which shattered to pieces scrap-iron plates of the best quality and of similar thickness. When cast it has a tine silver-gray color, is singu- larly close-grained, and rings like steel on being struck. A cubic inch of Wood- stock iron weighs 22 per cent more than the hke quantity of Swedish, Russian, or East Indian iron." (Hox. Arthur Gordon.) The mines are some distance from the village, and their products were uiucii ustd lur tue iJruisli iron-clad frigates. They ave now abandoned. The Railway runs S. from Woodstock to St. Stephen and St. Andrews (nee page 36) ; fare, $2. 1)0 ; _ also, S. E. to Fredericton ; fare, § 1 75. Tniins run N. to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup, and W. to lloulton. Steamers run to Frederictoa when the river is high enough. 12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St. Jchn River. During the spring and autumn, when there is enough water in the river, this route is served by steamboats At other times the journey may be made by the mail-stage. The distance is 62 M. ; the fare is .§2.50. The stage is uncovered, and hence is undesirable as a means of conveyance except in pleasant weather. Most travellers will prefer to pass between Fredericton aud ^Voodstock by the new rail- ■way (see Route 11). The stage passes up the S. and W. side of the river. The en- suing itinerary speaks of the river-villiges in their order of location, without refer- ence to the stations of the stages and steamboats. Distances. —Fredericton to Springhill, 5 -M. ; Lower French Village, 9; Bris- tol (Kingsclear), 16 ; Lower Prince N\"illiam, 21 ; Prince William, 25 ; Dumfries, 32 ; Pokiol^ Falls, 39 ; Lower Canterbury, 44; Canterbury, 51 ; Lower Woodstock ; Wood- stock, 52. On leaving Fredericton, pleasant prospects of the city and its Nash- ■waak suburbs are afforded, and successions of pretty views are obtained over the rich alluvial islands which fill the river for over 7 M., up to the mouth of the Keswick River. Springhill (S. shore) is the first village, and has about 250 inhabitants, with an Episcopal church and a small inn. The prolific intervales of Sugar Island are seen on the r., nearly closing the estuary of the Keswick, and the road passes on to the Indian village, where reside 25 families of the Milicete tribe. A short distance beyond is the Lower French Village (McKinley's inn), inhabited by a farming population descended from the old Acadian fugitives. The road and river now run to the S W., through the rural parish of Kingsclear, which was settled in 1784 by the 2d Battalion of New Jersey Loyalists. Be_yond the hamlet of Bristol (Kingsclear) Burgoyne's Ferry is reached, and the scat- tered cottages of Lower Queensbury are seen on the N. shore. After crossing Long's Creek the road and river turn to the N. W., and soon reach the village of Lower Prince William ( Wason's inn). 9 M. S. W. of this point is a settlement amid the beautiful scenery of Lahe George, where an antimony-mine is being worked ; 3 M. beyond which is Magundy (small inn), to the W. of Lake George. 52 Route 12. FORT MEDUCTIC. The road passes on to Prince William, through a parish which was originally settled by the King's American Dragoons, and is now occupied by their descendants. On the N. shore are the hilly uplands of the parish of Queensbury, which were settled by the disbanded men of the Queen's Rangers, after the Revolutionary War. Rich intervale islands are seen in the river between these parishes. Beyond Dumfries (small hotel) the hamlet of Upper Queensbury is seen on the N. shore, and the river sweeps around a broad bend at whose head is Pohiok, with large lumber-mills, 3 M. fi'om Allandale. There is a fine piece of scenery here, where the River Pokiok (an Indian word meaning "the Dreadful Place "), the out- let of Lake George, enters the St. John. The river first plunges over a perpendicular fall of 40 ft. and then enters a fine gorge, 1,200 ft. long, 75 ft. deep, and 25 ft. wide, cut through opposing ledges of dark rock. The Pokiok bounds down this chasm, from step to step, until it reaches the St. John, and affords a beautiful sight in time of high water, although its current is often encumbered with masses of riff-i-aff and rubbish from the saw -mills above. The gorge should be inspected from below, although it cannot be ascended along the bottom on account of the velocity of the contracted stream. About 4 M. from Pokiok (and nearer to Dumfries) is the pretty highland water of Prince William Lake, which is nearly 2 M. in diameter. Lower Canterbury (inn) is about 5 M. bej^ond Pokiok, and is near the mouth of the Sheogomoc River, flowing out from a lake of the same name. At Canterbury (Hoyt's inn) the Eel River is crossed; and about 5 M. be- 3'Ond, the road passes the site of the old French Avorks of Fort Meductic. This fort commanded the portage between the St. John and the route by the upper Eel River and the Eel and North Lakes to the Chiputneticook Lakes and Passama- quoddy Bay. Portions of these portages are marked by deep pathways worn in the rocks by the moccasons of many generations of Indian hunters and Marnors. By this route marched the devastating savage troops of the Chevalier de Tillebon to many a merciless foray on the New England borders. The land in this vicinity, and the lordship of the Milicete town at Meductic, were granted in 1684 to the Sieur Clignancourt, the brave Parisian who aided in repelling the troops of Massachusetts from the fort on the Jemseg, Hei-e, also, the Indians were obhged to make a portage around the Meductic Rapids, and the command of this point was deemed of great importance and value. (See also the account of Allan's retreat, on page 46.) Off this point are the Meductic Rapids, where the steamboats sometimes find it difficult to make headway against the descending waters, accel- erated by a slight incline. The road now runs N. through the pleasant valley of the St. John, Avith hill-ranges on either side. Lower Woodstock- is a prosperous settlement of about 500 inhabitants, and the road soon approaches the N. B. Railway (see page 37), and runs between that line and the river, " The approach to Woodstock, from the old church upwards, is one of the plea.s- antest drives in the Province, the road being shaded on either side with fine trees, and the comfortable fiirm-houses and gardens, the scattered clumps of wood, the PLORENCEVILLE. Route IS- 53 windiugs of the great river, the picturesque kuoll.-J, and the gay appearance of the pretty straggHug little town, all giving an air of a long-settled, peaceful, Enylish looking country." (Gordon.) 13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup. The Railway runs up the valley, from Woodstock to Edmundston, through a rather picturesque and diversified country, with charming river-views, and furnishing access to very good fishing-grounds. Along the 1'6 M., where the St. John forms the international boundary, extending from 'Ik M. above Grand Falls to Edmundston, the scenery is very pleasing, with bold hills enclosing lake-like reaches of river, gi-aceful islands, and fair meadows. Stations. — Woodstock to Upper Woodstock, 2 M. ; Newburgh Junction, 6; Hartland, 13; Peel, 17; Florenceville, 23; Kent, 26; Bath, 29 ; Muniac,41; Perth, 49; Andover (Tobique), 51; Aroostook, 55 (branch hence to Fort Fairfield, 7 M. ; E.Lyndon, 14: Caribou, 19; Presque Isle, 31); Grand FaUs, 73; St. Leonard's, 87 ; Green River, 104 ; St. Basil, 107 ; Edmundston, 113. Tt is 90 M. by the Temiscouata i.ailway (finished in 1S88) from Edmundston to Riviere du Loup, on the St Lawrence. The road from Woodstock to Florenceville is pleasant and in an attrac- tive country. "It is rich, English, and pretty. When I say English, I ought, perhaps, rather to say Scotch, for the general features are those of the lowland parts of Perthshire, though the luxuriant vegetation — tall crops of maize, ripening tields of golden wheat, and fine well-grown hard-wood — speaks of a more southern latitude. Single trees and clumps are here left about the fields and on the hillsides, under the shade of which well-looking cattle may be seen resting, whilst on the other hand are pretty views of river and distance, visible under fine willows, or through birches that carried me back to Deeside." (Hox. Arthur Gordon.) The train runs out E. from Woodstock across the St. John valley to Newburgh (or Woodstock) Junction, where it turns N. on the main line, and runs rapidly through the forest, emerging upon the meadows of the St. John, which are followed for a hundred miles. Victoria and ISIiddle Simonds (Mills's Hotel) are quiet hamlets on the river, centres of agricul- tural districts of 5 - 800 inhabitants each. Florenceville is a pretty village, " perched, like an Italian town, on the very top of a high bluff far over the river." The district between Woodstock and Wicklow was settled after the American Revolution by the disbanded soldiers of the West Inrlia Rangers and the Xew Brunswick Fencibles. " Between Florenceville and Tobique the road becomes even prettier, winding along the bank of the St. John, or through woody glens that combine to my eye Somersetshire, Perthshire, and the green wooded part of southwestern Germany." There are five distinct terraces along the valley, showing the geological changes in the level of the river, 5 M. S. W. of the river is Mars Hill, a steep mountain about 1.200 ft. high, which overlooks a vast expanse of forest. This was one of the chief points of controversy during the old border-troubles, and its summit was cleared by the Commissioners of 1794. 54 Route 13. TOBIQUE. From Florenceville the train runs N. 3 M. to Kent, where a road leads across in 15 M. to the upper Miramichi waters, whence canoes and fisher- men descend the great river, 60 M., to Boiestown (see page 47), through rich hill and forest scenery, and witli the best of sahnon and trout fish- ing. (Forguides, etc., write to J. Richards & Son, Fredericton, N". B.). Beyond the long-drawn town of Kent, the train traverses the pleasant (but rather lonely) glens of Muniac, celebrated in Indian tradition; and reaches the little village of Perth, on the E. shore of the St. John, with a hotel and four or five stores, and mills. The frequent views of the bright river, on the left, give an appearance of diversity and cheerfulness to the landscape. Tobique (7. A. Perley's vm), otherwise known as Andover, is pleasantly situated on the W. bank of the St. John, nearly opposite the mouth of the Tobiqiie River. It has 400 inhabitants and 2 churches, and is the chief depot of supplies for the lumbering-camps on the Tobique River. Nearly opposite is a large and picturesque Indian village, containing about 150 persons of the Milicete tribe, and situated on the bluff at the confluence of the rivers. They have a valuable reservation here, and the men of the tribe engage in lumbering and boating. A branch railway runs from Arnostook Junction for 34 M. up the Aroostook Talley, by Fort Fairfield (Collins House), an American town of 3,000 inhab- itants, near Aroostook Falls, Battle Brook, etc , and with several churches and factories. It was settled in 1816 by New-Brunswickers, who supposed it to be in their Province. The railway goes on 12 M. to Caribou ( Vaughan House), with 8,000 inhabitants and a newspaper, and a neighborhood abounding in trout, deer, moose, etc. 12 M. beyond, at the end of the railway, is Presque Isle (Presqa- Isle Hotel; Phair Hotel), with 3,500 inhabitants, a newspaper, opera house, water- works, etc. In the vicinity are found bears, deer, moose, caribou, ducks, and capital fishing, in Presque-Isle Stream, Aroostook River, Squawpan Lake. Tiience one begins the excursions to the Eagle Lakes, Milluokett, Millnig:i.«sett, Numsungan, etc. From Toh'que to Bathurst. Throui^h the Wilderness. The new Tobique- Valley Railway runs from Tobique beyond Arthurette. Guides and canoes can be obtained at the Indian village near Tobique. About 1 M. above Tobique the voyagers ascend through the Narruics, where the rapid cur- rent of the Tobique River is confined in a winding canon (1 M. long, 150 ft wide, and 50-100 ft. deep) between high limestone cliffs Then the river broadens out into a pretty lake-like reach, with rounded and forest-covered hills on either side. The first night-camp is usually made high up on this reach. Two more rapids are next passed, and then commences a stretch of clear, deep water 70 M. long. Near the foot of the reach is the settlement of Arthurette, with about 400 inhabitants. The Red Rapids are 11 M from the mouth of the river, and descend between high shores. Occasional beautifully wooded islands are passed in the stream ; and by the evening of the second daj' the voyagers should reach the high red cliffs at the mouth of the broad Wapskehegan River. This Indian name signifies " a river with a wail at its mouth," and the stream may be ascended for 20 M.. through a region of limestone hills and alluvial intervales. The Wapskehegan is 31 M. above the mouth of the Tobique. Infrequent clearings, red cliffs along the shore, and bine liills more remote, en- gage the attention as the canoe ascends still farther, passing the hamlet of Foster'' s •Cove on the N. bank, and running along the shores of Diamond and Long Island, 44 M. up river is the Agulquac River, coming in from the E., and navigable by canoes for 25 M. As the intervales beyond this continence are passed, occasional glimpses are gained (on the r.) of the Blue Mts. and other ttiU ridges. At 80 M. from the mouth of the river, the canoe reaches The Forks (4-5 days from Tobique). NICTOR LAKE. Route 13. 55 The Campbell River here conies in from the E. and S. E., from the great Tobique Lake and other remote wilderness-waters; the Moniozeket descends from the N., and from the N. W. comes the Nictor, or Littie Tobiiiue Itiver. It is a good day's jonrney from the Forks to Cedar Brook, on the Nictor; and another day conducts *o the * Nictor Lake, " })Ossessiug more beauty of scenery than any other locality I liave seen in the Province, except, perhaps, the Bay of Ohaleur. Close to its southern edge a granite mountain rises to a lieight of nearly 3,000 ft., clothed with wood to its summit, except where it breaks into precipices of dark rock or long gray shingly slopes. Other mountains of less height, but in some cases of more pictur- esque forms, are on other sides ; and in the lake itself, in the shallow of the mouD- tiiin, is a little rocky islet of most inviting appearance." It takes 2-3 hours to ascend the mountaui (Bald, or Sagamook), whence " the view is very fine. The lake lies right at our feet, — millions of acres of forest are spread out before us like a map, sinking and swelling in one dark mantle over hills and valleys, whilst Katah- ilin and Mars Ilill in Maine, Tracadiegash in Canada, the Squaw's Cap on the Restigouche. and Green .Mountain in Victoria, are all distinctly visible." (Gordon.) From the head of Nictor Lake a portage 3 M. long leads to the ISepisiguit Lake, on whose E. shore is the remarkable peak called Mount TenerifTe. Near the outlet is a famous camping-ground, where the fishing is good and in whose vicinity deer and ducks are found. It takes about six days to descend the Neplsiguit River to the Great Falls, the larger part of the way being through forests of fir and between distant ranges of bare granite hills. The Tobique affords the very best of salmon-fishing, with many trout also. The scenery is very interesting, with noble red clLTs, and canons, seething rapids, hiii- girt lakes, and true forest wilduess. The Tobique is the most picturesque stream in New Brunswick. Grand Falls {Grand-Falls Hotel, a new summer-resort; American; Glasier's), the central point of the upper St. John region, once a British garrison, and now capital of Victoria County, has latterly become famous as a Avatering-place, the attractions being the noble river and gorge and hill scener}' adjacent, the summer coolness, beautiful drives, fine fishing- grounds, etc. The pretty little village, with its three churches, stands on a square peninsular plateau, with the river on three sides, and a dry ravine on the fourth. The immensely wide Broadway runs from the railway to the bridge. The diverse manners of the French haUtans and Danish immigrants are worthy of observation. Partridges and wild ducks abound here, in the fall, and furnish good sport; and the strawberries of Julv are delicious. The Falls are at their best in May, when magnificent convul- sions of the flooded river are seen. A month later, the logs come down. Besides the view from the bridge, the Falls and the gorge should be seen from the old mill above, from the ^Vells (5 huge eroded pot-holes, with grand prospect of the cailon and rapids), and from Lover's Leap, over the profound Falls-Brook Basin. The scenery is majestic and awe-in..piring. Ihere are lovely views from the mountain W. of (and 700 ft nbove) the village, including Blue Bell, Bald Head, and the long lines of the Sal- mon-River and Blue Mts. The ** Grand Falls are near the village, and form the most imposing cataract in the Maritime Provinces. The river expands into a broad basin above, affording a landing-place for descending canoes; then hurries its massive current into a narrow rock-bound gorge, in which it slants down an incline of 6 ft., and then plunges over a precipice of calcareous slate 56 liotiielS. GRAND FALLS. 58 ft. high. The shape of the fall is singular, since the water leaps from the front and from both sides, with minor and detached cascades over the outer ledges. Below the cataract the river whirls and whitens for | M. through a rugged gorge 250 ft. wide, whose walls of dai-k rock are from 100 to 240 ft. high. " It is a narrow and frightful chasm, lashed by the troubled water, and excavated by boiling eddies and whirlpools always in motion; at last the water plunges in an immense frothy sheet into a basin below, where it becomes tranquil, and the stream resumes its origi- nal features." Within the gorge the river falls 58 ft. more, and the rug- ged shores are strewn with the wrecks of lumber-rafts which have become entangled here. The traveller should try to visit the Falls when lun~^ier " about passing over. 3-4 M. below the Falls is the dangerous Eapide de Femme. Small steamers have been placed on the river above the Falls, and have run as far as the mouth of the St. Francis, t;5 M distant. It is a tradition of the Micmacs that in a remote age two fami ies of their tribe •were on the upper St. John hunting, and were surprised by a war-party of the strange and dreaded Northern Indians. The latter were descending the river to at- tack the lower Blicmac Tillages, and forced the captured women to pilot them down. A few miles above the falls they asked thtir unwilling guides if the stream was all smooth below, and on receiving an affirmative answer, lashed the canoes together into a raft, and went to sleep, exhausted with their march. When near the Grand Falls the women quietly dropped overboard and swam ashore, while tne hostile war- rioi's, wrapped in slumber, were swept down into the rapids, onh' to awaken when escape was impossible. Their bodies were stripped by the Micmacs on the river be- low, and the brave women were ever afterward held in high honor by the tribe. Crossing the St. John at Grand Falls, the line ascends the E bank of the stream, and soon entei's the Acadian-French settlements and farming- districts. 8-10 M. up the road is the village of St. Leonard, nearly all of whose people are French; and on the American shore (for the St. John River is for many leagues the frontier between the nations) is the simi- larly constituted village of Van Buren (two inns). This district is largely peopled by the Cyr, Violette, and Michaud families. The Hon. Arthur Gordon thus describes one of these Acadian homes near Grand River (in 1863): " The whole aspect of the farm was that of a mctuirif, in Nor- mandy ; the outer doors of the house gaudily painted, the panels of a ditfereut color from the frame, — the large, open, uncarpeted room, with its bare shining floor, — the lasses at the spinning-wheel, — the French costume and appearance of Madame Violet and her sons and daughters, — all carried me back to the other side of the Atlantic.'" Grand River (TardifF's inn) is a hamlet about 4 M. be^'ond St. Leonard, at the mouth of the river of the same name. The St. John River to the Restigouche. A rugged wilderness-journey may be made on this line, by engaging Acadian guides and canoes at the Madawaska settlements. 3-4 weeks will be sufficient time to reach the Bay of Chaleur, with plenty of fishing on the way. On leaving the St. John the voyagers ascend the Grand River to its tributai'y, the Waagausis. A port- age of 5-6 M. from this stream leads to the Waagan, down whose narrow current the canoes float through the forest until the broad Restigouche is entered (see Route 16 ; see also Hon. Arthur Gordon in " Vacation Tourists " for 1862 - 63, p. 477). MAD AW ASK A. Rovic hi. 57 G M, above Grand Kiver is St. Basil, with 1,400 inhabitants and a hu-f^e Catliolic Church and the Convent and School of tlie Sacred Heart. A few miles beyond are some islands in the St. John Kiver, over which is seen tlie American villajje of Grant Isle (Cyr's inn), a place of 700 inhabitants, all nf whom are Acadians. This viiia-j^e was incorporated in 1860, and is on the U. S. mail-route from Van Buren to Fort Kent. Beyond (ireen River the road continues around the irreat hpud of thp St. .John to the Acadian settlement of Edmundston {Adams Hok-l. Ifntel Babin) at the con- tluence of the Madawaska and St. John Rivers. This is the centre of the Acadian-French settlements which extend from the Grand Falls. This district is studded with Roman Catholic chapels, and is divided into narrow farms, on which are quaint little houses. There are rich tracts of intervale along the rivers, and the people are generally in a prosperous and happy condition. The visitor should ascend to the top of the loftily situated old block-house tower, over Edmundston, for the sake of the wide prospect over the district. The village is rather crude, but the scenery about it, including the great river, the rich meadows, the far- away Mt. Carmel, is very charming. The best of fishing (trout and whitetish, tuladi and toque, — these latter weighing from 15 to 35 pounds each) is to be enjoyed in this vicinity, particularly in Fish River and the Eagle Lakes, Green River, and the Temiscouata region. This people is descended from the French colonists who lived on the shores of the Bay of Fund)- and the Basin of Minas at the middle of the 18th century. When the cruel edict of exile was carried into effect in 1755 (see Route 21), many of the Acadians fled from the Anglo-American troops and took refuge in the forest" A por- tion of them ascended the St. .John to the present site of Fredericton, and founded a new home ; but they were ejected 30 years later, in order that the land might be given to the refugee American Loyalists. Then they advanced into the trackless forest, and settled^ in the Madawaska region, where they have been permitted to re- main undisturbed. When the American frontier was pushed forward to the St. John River, by the sharp diplomacy of Mr. Webster, the Acadians found themselves divided by a national boundary ; and so they still remain, nearly half of the villages being on the side of the United States It is estimated that "there are now about 8,000 persons in these settlements. " It was pleasant to drive along the wide flat intervale which formed the Mada- waska Valley ; to see the rich crops of oats, buckwheat, and potatoes; the large, often handsome, and externally clean and comfortable-looking houses of the inhab- itants, with the wooded high grounds at a distance on our right, and the river on our left, — on which an occasional boat, laden with stores for the lumberers, with the help of stout horses, toiled against the current towards the rarely visited head- waters of the tributary streams, where the virgin forests still stood unconscious of the axe. This beautiful valley, with the rich lands which border the river above the mouth of the Madawaska, as far almost as that of the river St. Francis, is the peculiar seat of the old Acadian-French." (Prof. Johnston.) The American village of Ma«la\vaska (two inns) is opposite Edmundston, and has over 1,000 inhabitants. The U. S. mail-stages run from this point up»the val- ley of the St. John for 10 M. to another Acadian village, which was first named Dionne (in honor of Father Dionne, who founded here the Church of St. Luce) ; in 1869 was incorporated as Dickey ville, in honor of some local statesman ; and in 1871 received the name of Frenchville, " as describing the nationality of its settlers." From near Frenchville a portage 5 M. long leads to the shores of Lake Cleveland^ a fine sheet of water 9 M. long, connected by Second Lake and Lake Preble with Lake Sf.dgiviek, which is nearly 10 M, long. 58 Route 13. TEMISCOUATA LAKE. 16 M. S. W. of Madawaska is Fort Kent, an old border-post of theU. S. Anny. It has two inns and about 1,000 inhabitants (including the adjacent farming settle- ments), and is the terminus of the mail-route from A'an Buien. From this point stages run W. 20 M. to the Acadian village of St. Francis, near the mouth of the St. Francis River. The latter stream, flo^viug from the N. W., is the boundary of the United States for the next 40 M., descending through the long lakes called Wela- stookwaagamis, Pechtaweekaagomic, and Pohenegamook. Above the mouth of the St. Francis, the St. John River is included in the State of Maine, and flows through that immense and trackless forest which covers " an extent seven times that of the famous Black Forest of Germany at its largest expanse in modern times. The States of Rhode Island, Connecticut, and Delaware could be lost together in our northern forests, and still leave about each a margin of wilderness sufficiently wide to make the exploration without a compass a work of desperate adventure " Its chief tributary in the woods is the Allagash, which descends from the great Lakes Pemgockwahen and Chamberlain, near the Chesuncook and Moosehead Lakes and the head-waters of the Penobscot. The Ea'i:le L,akes, in Maine, are visited hence (guides obtained at Whitney's) by a portage of 5i M. from FrcncJivi/Ie, 5 M above Edmundston, to Long Lake, whence, by Mud, Cross, Square, and Eagle Lakes, and Fish River, the canoes de- scend through beautiful scenery to Fort Kent, 20 M. above Edmundston. There are famous burbot and whitefisli in these lakes. From Edmundston the Temisconata Railway leaves the St. John, and ascends the W. shore of the Madawaska. But few settlements are passed, and at 12 M. from Edmundston the Province of Quebec is entered. About 25 M. from Edmundston the road reaches the foot of the picturesque Temiscouata Lake, where there is a small village. The road is parallel with the water, but at a considerable distance from it, until near the upper part, and pretty views are afforded from various points where it overlooks the lake. Temiscouata is an Indian word meaning " Winding Water," and the lake is 30 M. long by 2 - 3 M. wide. The scenery is very pretty, and the clear deep Avaters contain many fish, the best of which are the tuladi, or great gray trout, which sometimes weighs over 12 pounds. There are also white- fish and burbot. Visitors to the lake usually stop at the Lake-Side House, where canoes may be obtained. From the W., Temiscouata receives the Cabiueau River, the outlet of Long Lake (15 by 2 M.); and on the E. is the Tuladi River, which rises in the highlands of Rimouski and flows down through a chain of secluded and rarely visited lakelets. The chief settlement on Temiscouata Lake is the French Catholic hamlet of Notre Dame du Lac, which was founded since 1861 and has 180 inhabitants. Fort Ingalls commanded the lake, and had a garrison of 200 men as late as 1850. At the mouth of the Tuladi, 285 barrels of wliitefish were taken in the fall run of 1378. 1 M. up are falls, from which the still Tuladi may be ascended for 16 M., to the Forks, where the fishing is very good. Deer, bears, caribou, and other gamo abound in these vast untrodden forests. A favorite trip for sportsmen leads from Edmundston (by carriage) up the Madawaska to Griffin's, 16 M. , then a portage of 21- M. to Mud Lake; then a long and delightful canoe-descent to Fourth Squa-took Lake ; then down into Third Squa-took, from whose shore rises the noble-viewing Squa-took Peak ; and then down to the Forks, and along the Tuladi River to Temis- couata Lake. The road from Temiscouata Lake to Riviere du Loup is 40-50 M. long, and descends through a wild region into which few settlers have advanced SIIEDIAC. RvMclIf. 59 14. St. John to Shediac. Distances. — St. John to Mouctou, 89 M. ; raiusec Juuction, 97 ; Dorchester lload, 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; I'oiut du Oheue, 108. St. John to Painsec Junction, see Route 16 Passengers for Shediuc and Point du Cliene change cars at Painsec Junction, and pass to the N. E. over a Jevel and unproductive country. Shediac {Wddon; Trrtre?-/ei/) is a vilhige of 500 inhabitants, with 3 churciies, — Baptist, the Catholic St. Joseph de Sliediac, and St. Andrew's, the head of a rural deanery of the Anglican church. The town is well situated on a broad harbor, which is sheltered by Shediac Island, but its commerce is inconsiderable, being limited to a few cargoes of lumber ami deals sent annually to Great Britain. The small oysters ( Ostrea canadensis) of the adjacent waters are also exported to the provincial cities. Shediac was occupied by a French garrison in 1750, to protect the borders of Acadia, and in 1757 there were 2,000 French and Acadian troops and settlers here. The French element is still predominant in this vicinity, and its interests are represented by a weekly paper called "Ze Moniteur Acadien.'''' Point du Chene (Point du Cliene House) is 2 M. N. E. of Shediac, and is the E. terminus of the railway and the St. Lawrence port nearest to St. John. It has a village of about 200 inhabitants, with long piers reaching out to the deep-water channels. From this point passen- gers embark on the steamers for Prince Edward Island. Daily steamers run from Point du Chene to Summerside, P. E. T., -where they make con- nections with the trains of the P. E. I. Railway (see Route 43) for Char- lottetown and all parts of the island. Passengers leave St. John at 8 A. m., and reach Charlotteto^vn at 8 p. m. The Westmorland Coast. Infrequent mail-stages run E. from Shediac by Point du Chene to Barachois, 8 M. ; Tedish,17; Great Shemogue (Avard"s Hotel), 22; and Little Shemogue, 24. These settlements contain about 1,.500 inliabitants, most of whom are Acadians. Capes Jourimain (fixed white light, visible 14 M.) and Tor- mentine are respectively 15 M. and 20 M. E. of Little Shemogne. 10- 12 M. N . of Shediac (mail-stage daily) are the large and prosperous Acadian settle- ments of the Cocagnes (three inns), having about 1,-500 inhabitants, seven eighths of whom are of French descent. These people are nearly all farmers, engaged in tiUing the level plains of Dundas, although a good harbor opens between the vitlagcs. 21 M. from Shediac is Buctouche (two inns), a prosperous Acadian village of 4')0 inhab- itants, engaged in shipbuilding and in the exportation of lumber and oysters. The Buctouclie and Moncton Railway runs through a fine farm- ing country, crossing Cocagne. 59 a Route 77. ST. JOHN TO QUEBEC. 77. St. John and Halifax to Quebec. The Intercolonial Railway is the gigantic and costly outgrowth of the Canadian National sentiment, which has established here a perfectly equipped railway route of vast extent, through a region which can never pay the cost of its operation, being thinly settled, and exposed to very serious climatic vicissitudes. It was deemed essential to h^'ve a first-class route between the maritime and inland prov- inces, entirely on Canadian territory, even though the distance is nearly double that across New Ecgland. The first road was surveyed by Major Yule, R. E., before 1840, and ran across the present Northern Maine, then claimed and partly held by Canada. In 1846-48 a new route was carefully laid out by officers of the Royal Engineers. The construction began in 1889, and was finished in 1876. This great mihtary route runs from the E. terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway, at Riviere du Loup, to Rimouski, where it leaves the St. Lawrence, and crosses the lonely high- lands of Quebec, reaching grades 743 ft. above the sea, and descends to the Bay Chaleur. Thence it runs down the north shore of New Brunswick, and down across Nova Scotia, to Halifax, its magnificent winter-harbor. From the main line there are branches to Dalhousie, Chatham, Richibucto, Point du Chene, St. John, and Pictou. The entire length of track is about 850 M. Stations (Moncton to Quebec).— Moncton to Berry's Mills, 8 M. ; Canaan, 19; Coal Branch, 28 ; Weldford, 37; Kent Junction, 48 ; Ro2;ersvil]e, 57 ; Barnaby River, 69 ; Chatham Junction, 72 ; Derby, 75 ; Newcastle, 78 ; Beaver Brook, 88 ; Bartibogue, 99 ; Red Pine, 109 ; Bathurst, 122 ; Petite Roche, 134 ; Belledune, 142 ; Jacquet River, 151 ; New Mills, 161 ; Charlo, 167 ; Dalhousie, 177 ; Campbellton, 185 ; Metapedia, 198 ; Mill Stream, 208 ; Assametquaghan, 219 ; Causap-cal, 2.30 ; Amqui, 246; Cedar Hall, 255; Sayabec, 261; Tartague, 272; Little M(§tis', 282; St. Flavie, 291 ; St. Luce, 299 ; St. Anaclete, 306 ; Rimouski, 309 ; Sa^re Coeur, 317; Bic, 319; St. Fabien, 328 ; St. Simon, 338 ; Trois Pistoles, .347 ; St. Eloi, 353 ; Isle Verte, 358; St. Arsene, 366; Cacouua, 368; Riviere du Loup, 374: Notre Dame du Portage, 380 ; St. Alexandre, 386 ; St. Andre, .391 ; St Helene, 394 ; St. Paschall, 400 ; St. Phihppe d^Neri, 402; Riviere Quelle, 409 ; St. Anne, 415; St. Roche, 423 ; Elgin Road, 426 ; St. Jean Port Joli, 430 ; Trois Saumons, 4-35 ; L'lslet, 438; L'Anse a Gile,442; Cap St. Ignace, 445: St. Thomas, 452 ; St. Pierre, 459; St. Fran9ois, 462; St. Valier, 466; St. Michel. 470; St. Charles, 476 ; St. Henri, 484 ; St. Jean Chrysostome, 488 ; Chaudiere Curve, 492 ; Hadlow, 498 ; Point Levi, 499; Quebec, 500. For nearly 80 M., from Moncton to Newcastle (see page 62), the route lies over a dull country' (railway from Kent Junction to Richibucto). Steamers run hence to Chatham (also a branch railway) and up the jNIira- michi, and carriages 30 M. to the hotel on the Tabusintac, famous for great sea-trout. The railway crosses the Miramichi on immense iron bridges, carried by 12 stone piers, and runs for nearly 50 M. to Bathurst (bee page 05), where it crosses the Nepisiguit on a long bridge of English iron. The scenery is much finer, as the train rushes on, with frequent glimpses of the Bay of Chaleur, fur 50 M., to Dalhousie (see page 67), 9 M. beyond which is Campbellton (page 68), with its railway dining-room. Charming scener}' fallows, and the hue crosses the Restigouche River on a noble iron bridge, and enters the Province of Quebec. ST. JOHN TO QUEBEC. Rnitc 77. 59 h The Baie-des-Chaleurs Railway runs along the N. shore of the bay, from ]\rotapo(lia to Carlton (40 M.\ and is beinic prolonged to Paspebiac aon :\r.) and C.asp- M70 M.). Beyond the hamlet of Metapedia, the line begins the long ascent of the Metapedia valle\', a stretch of 70 i.I, of -wild, mountain-girt, island-dotted, Scottish scenery, with no villages or towns, or hotels. Lake Metapedia affords a beautiful sight, and abounds in tish and game, but no accommo- dations for tourists have yet been prepared. Vast forests hem in the road on every side, stretching lor many leagues along the dreary and uniuhab- iied highlands. About the only product of the region is salmon, the long and rapid Metapedia River affording fair sport to one or two owners of fish- ing lodge*. ... A few small lumber-mills have been started within a year or two, around which are clustered the wooden dwellings of the work- men- Sayabec, a few miles farther on, through the woods, is a lonely sta- tion at the crossing of the old military road from Quebec to New Bruns- wick. A long up-grade leads thence to Malphet Lake, and soon reaches the Tartigon River, which it follows down to the village of the same name. A dreary stretch of track follows, partly obscured in deep rocky cuttings, and partly running through the debris of burned forests, and conducting, at last, to the shores of the St. Lawrence River, by the Metis Falls and the great cuttings near St. Octave, Avhich is the station for the Grand and Little Metis, famous salmon-streams, where good hunting is found. There is a large summer-hotel at Little Metis. The Grand Metis River is crossed b}' a long, lofty, and costly railway bridge, supported on high stone abutments a mile or two below Avhich is the Grand Metis Fall, where the river descends 75 ft. at a single plunge. A few miles beyond is St. Flavie, where the route enters the more thickly settled French country along the St. Lawrence. 60 Route 15. RICHIBUCTO. 15. The Bay of Chaleur and the North Shore of New Brunswick. Since the construction of the Intercolonial Railway, the routes of Pro- vincial travel have undergone many important changes, particularly around the N. shore of New Brunswick, where the trains on this great route have supplanted the services of the steamships. The regular steam- ship lines between Quebec and Prince Edward Island, which used to serve these ports, now no more visit the shores of New Brunswick. The Quebec steamships do not now go up the Bay of Chaleur, but the account of the Bay is retained for the use of voyagers by other vessels. A steamboat leaves Dalhousie several times a week for ports on the Bay of Chaleur, running out as far as Gasp^. Richibucto (Phair's Hotel) is the capital of Kent County, and occupies a favorable position for commerce and s-hipbuilding near the mouth of the Richibucto River. It has about 800 inhabitants and 'd churches, and is engaged in the exportation of lumber and canned lobsters. The river is navigable for 20 M., and has been a great highway for lumber-vessels, although now the supply of the forests is wellnigh exhausted. In the region about Richibucto are many Acadian farmers, and the hamlet of Al- douin River, 4 M. from tiie town, pertains to this people. The Kent Northern Railway runs 27 M. S. W. from Richibucto to Kingston and Kent Junction ( Brown'' s Hotel) on the Intercolonial Railway. The rail- way leads also N. W. 7 M. to St. Louis, with its convent and sacred well. A road leads S. W. through the wilderness to the Grand-Lake district (see pages 48-49). The Beaches ($2-3 a day; reductions for season) is a new summer- resort near Richibucto, with accomm jdations for 200 guests, with capital facilities for boating and bathing, tishingand shooting, sailing and driving, bowling and billiards, etc., and grounds for tennis and cricket, croquet and base-ball. Indian guides may be obtained here. There is no piano in the main building. Richibucto and The Beaches are reached only by the Intercolonial Rail- way and the Kent Northern & St. Louis Railway. The name Richibucto signifies " the River of Fire," and the shores of the ri-nr and bav were formerly inhabited by a ferocious and bloodthirsty tribe of linli.r. . So late as 1787, when the American Loyalist Powell settled here, there were bi t loi • Christian families (and they were Acadians) in all this region (the present county 1 1 Kent). The power of the Richibuctos was broken in 1724, when all their warrior: , CUATJIAM. Rnittc 15. 01 under command of Arjiimoosh (" the Great Wizard '"), attacked Canso and captured 17 Massachusetts vessels. Two well-manned vessels of Boston and Capo Ann were sent after them, and overtook the Indian fleet on the coast. A desperate naval battle ensui'd between the Massachusetts sloops and the Indian prize-ships. The Kichi- buctos Ibught with great valor, but were finally di.sconcerted by showers of hand- grenades from the Americans, and nearly every warrior was either killed or drowned. After emerging from Ricliihucto harbor, the steamer runs N. across the opcnuig of the shallow Kouchibouguac Bay, whose shores are low sand- bars and beaches which enclose shoal lagoons. 5 I\I. above Point Sapin is Escuminac Pointy on which is a powerful white light, visible for 25 M. The course is now laid more to the W., across the Miramichi Bay, and on the 1. are seen the pilots' village antl the lighthouses on Preston's Beach. The entrance to the Inner Bay of Miramichi is between Fox Island and Portage Island, the latter of which bears a lighthouse. The Inner Bay is 13 M. long and 7-8 M. wide, and on the S. is seen Via Island, back of which is the Bay du Vin. Two centuries ago all this shore -was occujyed by French settlements, whose only remnant now is the hamlet of Portage Eoad, in a remote corner of the bay. When about 9 M. from the entrance, the steamer passes between Point Quart and Grand Dune Island (on the r.), which are 85 M. ajiart. 3-4 M. farther on, the course is -betwe-^n Oak Point, with its two lighthouses (on the r.), and Cheval Point, beyond which is the populous valley of the Napan River, on the S. The hamlet of Black Brook is visible on the 1., and off Point Xapan is Sheldrake Island, a low and swampy land lying across the mouth of the river. The vessel now enters the Miramichi River, and on the r. is the estuary of the Great Bartibog, with the beacon- lights on Malcolm Point. The Miramichi is here a noble stream, fully 1 M. wide, but flowing between low and uninteresting shores. Chatham (Adams TJouse ; Canada House) is tho chief town on the North Shore, and has a population of nearly 5,000, u itli 5 churches, a weekly newspaper, and a Masonic hall. It is 24 M. from the sea, and is built along the S. shore of the river for a distance of 1^ M. On the summit of the hill along which the town is built is seen a great pile of Catholic in- stitutions, among which are the Cathedral of St IMichael, the convent and hospital of the Hotel Dieu de Chatham, and St. Michael's College. These buildings, like all the rest of the town, are of wood. The chief industries of Chatham are shipbuilding and the exportation of fi.sh and lumber, and the river here usually contains several large ships, which can anclior oli' the wharves iu 6-8 fathoms. Railroad to l^rederictou, see page 47. About 22 M. beyond Chatham are the head-waters of the Tabusintac Kiver " the .-.ponsniau's paradise," a narrow and shallow stream in which an abundance of trout is found. Tri-wnekiy stages run from Chatham N. E. to Oak Point, 11 M. ; Burnt Church 20; Neguac, i:.5 ; Tabusintac, 37; Tiacadie, 52; Pockmouche, 64; Shippigun, 70-' and Caraquecte (Lower), 73. The first 3iJ M. of tnis road are along (or near) the n' sliore of tiie Miramichi iliver and the inner Bay, by the hamlets of Oak Point and Burnt Churcn. 62 Route 15. THE MIRAMICHI. Burnt Cliiircli is still the capital of the Micmac Indians of the Province, and here they gather in great numbers on St. Anne's Day and engage in religious rites and athletic sports and dances Hon. Arthur Gordon says: " I was surprised by the curious resemblance between these dances and those of the Greek peasantry. Even the costumes were in some degree similar, and I noticed more than one short colored-silk jacket and handkerchief-bound head that carried me back to Ithaca and Paxo." (Vacation Tourists, 1863.) Tabusintac (small inn) is near the mouth of the Tabusintac River, and is a Presbyterian village of about 400 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries. Many large sea-trout are caught near the mouth of the river, and in October immense numbers of wild geese and ducks are shot in the adjacent lagoons. Trataclie is a settlement which contains 1,2C0 French Acadians, and is situated near a broad lagoon which lies inside a line of sand-bars. Salmon, cod, and herring are found in the adjacent vaters, and most of the people are engaged in the fish- eries. The Tracadie Lazaretto is devoted to the reception of persons afHicted with the leprosy, which prevails to some extent in this district, but has diminished since the government secluded the lepers in this remote hospital There is an old tradi- tion that the leprosy was introduced into this region during the last century, when a French vessel was wrecked on the coast, some of whose sailors were from Mar- seilles and had contracted the true elephantiasis grcecorurn (Eastern leprosy) in the Levant. Its perpetuation and hereditary transmission is attributed to the closeness of the relation in which intermarriage is sanctioned among the Acadians (sometimes by dispensations from the Church) Pockmouche is a settlement of 800 Acadian farmers, and here the mail-route forks, — one road running 6 M. N. E. to Shippigan (see page 64), the other run- ning 9 M. N. to Lower Caraquette (see page 66;. River-steamers run up the N. W. and S. \V. branches, and occasionally to Burnt Church and Bay du Vin. Another river-steamer runs up the river four times daily to Newcastle (6 M.), touching at Douglastown, a dingy village on the N. bank, where much lumber is loaded on the ships which take it hence to Europe. This village contains about 400 inhabitants, aud has a marine hospital, built of stone. Newcastle ( Waverley Hotd) is the capital of Northuuiberland Countv, and is situated at the head of deep-water navigation on the Mirainich^ River. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is engaged in shipbuilding and the exportation of fish and lumber, oysters, and preserved lobsters. One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway is located here, and a branch line has been built to Chatham. 150,000,000 ft. of lumber are ex- ported hence annually. There are 5 churches here. A short distance above Newcastle, and beyond the Irish village of Nel- son, is the confluence of the gi-eat rivers known as the N. W. Miramichi and the S. W. Miramichi. These streams are crossed by the largest and most costly bridges on the line of the Intercolonial Railway. The name MirnmicM signifies "Happy Retreat," and indicates the love that tlie In- dians entertained for these fine hunting and fishing grounds. The upper waters of the rivers traverse wide districts of unsettled country, and are visited by hardy and adventurous sportsmen, who capture large numbers of trout and salmon. This system of waters is connected b,y portages witli the Nepisiguit, the Restigouche, the Upsalquitch, the Tobique, and the Nashwaak Rivers. The best salmon-pools are on the S. W. Miramichi, beyond Boiestown, at the mouths of the Salmon, Rocky, Clearwater, and Burnt Hill Brooks. A railway runs from Cliaiham to Boiestown and Fredericton (seepage 47). Steamboats four times daily from Newcastle to Chatham. SHIPPIGAN ISLAND. Route 15. G3 B^atibair's Islnnii is off upper Nelson, and was formerly occupied by a prosperous French to wo, but few relics of which are now to be seen It was destroyed by a British naval attack in 175U A colony was planted here in 1722, under Cardinal Fleury's administration, and was provided with 200 houses, a church, and a Iti-guu baf'ery. In 1(342-44 the Miramichi district was occupied by Jean Jaqucs Enaud, a Basque gentleman, who founded trading-posts on the islands and entered also upon the walrus fisheries. But a contention soon arose between Enaud's men and the In- dians, by reason of which the Basque establishments were destroyed, and their peo- ple were forced to flee to Nepisiguit In 1G72, after the Treaty of Breda, several families from St. Malo landed on this coast and founded a village at Bay du Vin. From 1740 to 1757 a flourishing trade was carried ou between the .Miramichi country and f ranee, great quantities of furs being exported. But the crops failed in 17u7, and the relief-ships from France were captured by the British. In the winter of 175S the transport L'//;rf(V«ne, of Morlaix, was wrecked in the bay, and the dis- heartened colonists, fimished and pestilence-stricken, were rapidly depleted by death Many of the French settlers died during the winter, and were buried on Beaubair"s Point. Those who survived fled from the scene of such bitter suffering, and by the arrival of spring there were not threescore inhabitants about the bay. In 1759 a British war-vessel entered the bay for wood and water, and the first boafs-crew which landed was cut off and exterminated by the Indians. The frigate bombarded the French Fort batteries, and annihilated the town at Canadian Cove. Then sailing to the N. E., the commander landed a force at Neguac, and burnt the Catholic chapel, the inhabitants having fled to the woods. Neguac is known to this day only by the name of Burnt Church. After this fierce foray all the N. coast of New Brunswick was deserted and relapsed into a wilderness state. In 1775 there was an insignificant Scotch trading post on the S. W. Miramichi, where 1 ,500 - 1 ,800 tierces of salmon were caught annually. This was once surprised and plundered by the Indians in sympathy with the Americans, but in 1777 the river was visited by the sloop-of-war Viper and the captured American privateer Lafayette. The American flag was displayed on the latter vessel, and it was given out that her crew were Bostouians, by which means 35 Indians from the great coun- cil at Bartibog were decoyed on board and carried captive to Quebec. In 1786 the Scottish settlers opened large saw-mills on the N. W. Miramichi, and several families of American Loyalists settled along the shoi-e. Vast numbers of masts and spars were sent hence to the British dock-yards, and the growth of the Miramichi was rapid and satisfactory. In 1793 the Indians of the hills gathered secretly and concerted plans to exterminate the settlers (who had mostly taken refuge in Chatham), but the danger was averted by the interposition of the French Catholic priests, who caused the Indians to disperse. In October, 1825, this district was desolated by t'.ie great Miramichi Fire, which swept over 3,000,000 acres of forest, and destroyed % 1,000,000 worth of property and 160 human lives. The town of Newcastle was laid in ashes, and all the lower Mi- ramichi Valley became a blackened wilderness. The only escape for life was by rushing into the rivers while the storm of fire passed overhead : and here, nearly covered by the hissing waters, were men and women, the wild animals of the woods, and the domestic beasts of the farm. On leaving the Miramichi River and Bay the vessel steams out into the Gulf, leaving on the N. W. the low shores of Tabusintac and Tracadie, in- dented by wide and .shallow lagoons (see page 62). After running about 35 M. the low red cliffs of Shippigan Island are seen on the W. This island is 12 i\I. long by 8 M. wide, and is inhabited by Acadian fishermen. On the S. W. shore is the hamlet of Alexander Point, on Alemek Bay, opposite the populous village and magnificent harbor of Shippigan. There are valuable fisheries of herring, cod, and mackerel off these shores, and the deep triple harbor is Avell sheltered by the islands of Shippigan and Poclssuedie, forming a secure haven of refuge for the American and Cana- dian fleets. Noble wild-duck shooting here in spring and fall. 64 Route 15. BAY OF CHALEUE. Sliippigan Harbor, though still surrounded bj' forests, has occupied a prom- inent place in the calculations of commerce and travel . It has been proposed that the Intercolonial Railway shall connect here with a transatlantic steamship line, thus withdrawing a large portion of the summer travel from Halifax and New York. The distance from Shippigan to Liverpool by the Straits of Belleisle is 148 M. less than the distance from Halifax to Liverpool, and Shippigan is 271 M. nearer Montreal than is Halifax. Tlie Ocean Ferry. — The following plan is ingeniously elaborated and pow- erfully supported, and 'is perhaps destined to reduce the transatlantic passage to 100 hours. It is to be carried out with strong, swift express steamers on the Ocean and the Gulf, and through trains on the railways. The itinerary is as follow.'^ : London to Valentia, 640 M., 16 hours ; Valentia to St. John's, N. F., 1,640 M., 100 hours; St. John's to St. George's Bay (across Newfoundland by railway) 250 M., 8^ hours; St. George's Bay to Shippigan (across the Gulf), 250 M., 15^ hours; Shippigan to New York, 906 M., 31 hoiirs ; London to New York, 171 hours, or It days. It is claimed that this route would escape the dangers between Cape Race and New York ; would give usually quiet passages across the Gulf ; would diversify the monotony of the long voyage by three transfers, and would save 4-6 days on the recorded averages of the steamships between New York and Liverpool (see maps and details in Sandford Fleming's '' Intercolonial Railway Survey "). The steamer now crosses the Miscou Banks, and approaches Miscou Island, which is 20 M. in circumference and contains about 300 inhab- itants. On its S. shore is a fine and spacious harbor, which is much used as a place of refuge in stormy weather by the American fishing-fleets. Settlements were formed here early in the 17th century by the French, for the purpose of hunting the walrus, or sea-cow. Such an exterminating war was waged upon this valuable aquatic animal that it soon became extinct in the Gulf, and was followed into the Arctic Zone. Within five years a few walruses havebeen seen in the Gulf, and it is hoped' that they may once more enter these waters in droves. At an early date the Jesuits established the mission of St. Charles de Miscou, but the priests were soon killed by the climate, and no impression had been made on the Indians. It is claimed that there may still be seen the ruins of the post of the Royal Company of Miscou, which was founded in 1635 for the pursuit offish and walruses, and for a time derived a great revenue from this district. Fortifications were also erected here by M. Denys, Sieur de Fronsac. Tlie steamer alters her course gradually to the W. and passes the fixed red light on Birch Point, and Point Miscou, with its high green knoll. Between Point Miscou and Cape Despair, 25 M. N., is the en- trance to the Bay of Chaleur. The Bay of Chaleur was known to the Indians by the name of Echetuam Nemaache, signifying "a Sea of Fish," and that name is. still applicable, since the bay contains every variety of fish known on these coasts. It is 90 M. long and from 10 to 25 M. wide, and is nearly free from shoals or dangerous reefs. The waters are compai-atively tranquil, and the air is clear and bracing and usually free from fog, aflbrding a marked contrast to the climate of the adjacent Gulf coasts. The tides are regular and have but little velocity. The length of the bay, from Point Miscou to Canip- bellton, is about 110 M. These waters are visited every year by great American fleets, manned by the hardy seamen of Cape Cod and Glouce - ter, and valuable cargoes of fish are usually carried back to the M;issa- chusetts ports. BATIIURST. Route 15. 65 This bay was discovered by Jaques Cartier in the summer of 1535, and, from the fact that the heated season was at its height at that time, he named it La Btiie dcs Cha^eiiis (.tlie Bay of Iloatvs). On the earliest maps it is also called La Baie des Esjinano'.s, indicating that it Avas frequented by Spanish vessels, probably for the purposes of fishing. In these waters is located the scene of the old legend of the Massachusetts coast, relative to Skipper lreson"s misdeed, which, with the record of its punishment, has licen commemorated in the poetry of Whittier: — " Small pity for him I — He sailed away From a le'iiking ship in Chalcur Bay, — Sailed away from a sinking wreck,' With his own towns-people on iier deck I ' Lay by : lay by : ' they called to him ; Back he answered, ' Sink or swim : Bras of your cateh of tish again ! ' And off he sailed through the fog and rain. Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart. Tarred and featiiered and carried in a cart By the women of Marblehead. ' Fathoms deep in dark Chaleiir That wreck shall lie forevermore. Mother and sister, wife and maid. Looked from the rocks of Marblehead Over the moaning and rainy sen, — Looked fur the coming ihat might not be ! What did the winds and the sea-birds say Of the cruel captain who sailed away ? — Old Floyd Ireson, for liis hard heart, Ta'red iind feathered and carried in a cart By the women of Marblehead." Miscou has the best shooti' g- in Canada : plover in Aui^. and Sept. ; geese, ducks, and brant in Sept., Oct., and Nov. The Mai-Bay marshes are the best place. Guides and canoes, § 1 a day. Fredericton to Chat- ham Junction, 107 M. ; thence on Intercolonial Railway to Gloucester Junction, 45 M.; thence on Caraquet Ry. (see page 06), 50 M. to Caraquet; whence club-boat 15 M. to Miscou. Address D. Lee Babl)itt, Fredericton. Bathurst {Ktary House), the capital of Gloucester County, has 1,200 inhabitants, and stands on a peninsula 2^ M. from the bay. Large quan- tities of fish are sent hence to the American cities; and the exportation of frozen salmon has become an important business. The Intercolonial Rail- way has a station near Bathurst. The beautiful Basin of Bathurst re- ceives the waters of four rivers, and its shores are already well populated by farmers. Pleasant drives and sailing routes amid Invelv scenery abound hereabouts, and give Bathurst a summer-resort air. It is 3 "M, to the fine beach of Alston Point, near which there are farm boarding-houses. The Basin of Bathurst was called by the Indians Winkapiguwick, or Nepisiguit, signifying the " Foaming Waters." It was occupied in 1638 by M. Enaud, a wealthy Basque gentleman, and his retainers, forming a town called St Pierre. Enaud mar- ried a Mohawk princess, founded mills, and estabUshed an extensive far-trade, erect- ing a commodious mansion at Abshaboo (Coal Point), at the mouth of tlie Nepisiguit. But some famiW troubles ensued, and Madame Enaud's brother slew her husband, after which the French settlements were phuidered by the Indians, and such of the inhabitants as could not escape by way of the sea were massacred. By 1670 the Chaleur shores were again studded with French hamlets, and occu- pied by an industrious farming population. In 1 j92 the Micmacs confederated against them, and, under the command of the sag;imore Hilion, completely devas- tated the whole district and compelled the settlers to fiy to Canada. Thenceforward for 74 years this country was unvisited by Europeans. In 1764 a Scotch trading- post and fort was erected at Alston Point, on the N shore of Bathurst harbor, and thence were exported great quantities of furs, moose-skins, walrus hides and tusks, and salmon. In 1776 this flourishing settlement was destroyed by American priva- teers, which also devastated the other shores of Chaleur. The present town wa-s founded in 1818 by Sir Howard Douglas, and was named in ionor of the Earl of Bathurst. The Nerjisigmt River empties into Bathurst harbor, and is famous for its fine fishing. The riparian owners have soid their fishing rights to Bos' E 66 Route lb. CARAQUETTE. ton people, and to the Nepisiguit Angling Club of St. John, N. B., from whom a fishhig permit ma}^ be bouglit. A road ascends for 35 M., passing the Rough Waters, the brilliant rapids of the Pabineau Falls (9 M. up), the dark pools of the Betaboc reach, the Chain of Rocks, and the Narrows. The * Grand Falls of the Nepisiguit are 20 M. above Bathurst, and consist of 4 distinct and step-like cliffs, with a total height of 140 ft. They are at the head of the Narrows, where the river flows for 3-4 M. through a caiion between high cliffs of slaty rock. The river boldly takes the leap over this Titanic stairway, and the ensuing roar is deafening, while the base of the cliff is shrouded in white spray. From the profound depths at the foot the river Avhirls away in a black and foam-flecked course for 2 M. " Good by, lovely Nepisiguit, stream of the beautiful pools, the fisherman's elysium; farewell to thy merry, noisy current, thy long quiet stretches, thy high bluffs, thy wooded and thy rocky shores. Loog may thy music lull the innocent angler into day-dreams of happiness. Long may thy romantic scenery charm the eye and gladden the heart of the artist, and welcome the angler to a happy sylvan home." (Roosevelt.) The * Grand Falls of the Tete-i-gouche River are about 8 M. W. of Bathurst, and may be visited by carriage. The river here falls about 30 ft., amid a wild confusion of rocks and cliffs. The Caraquet Railway runs N.E. from Gloucester Junction to Bathurst, 5M.; Salmon Beach, 9 M.; Janeville, 18; Canobie, 20; Clifton, 21 ; Stone- haven, 23; New Bandon, 25; Pockshaw, 28; Grand Anse, 31; Upper Caraquet, 46; Caraquet, 50; Lower Caraquet, ,53; Pokemouche. 02; SMp- pegan (Taylors Hotel), 70. (See also page 04.) This road follows the shores of the Nepisiguit Bay and gives frequent beautiful marine views over the Bay of Chaleur for nearly 30 M. The hamlets of Clifton (small inn) and Neio Bandon were settled by Irish immigrants, and are now er, gaged in making grindstones. Pockshaw has an inn and about 600 inhabitants. Grand Anse is an Acadian settlement, and has 700 inhabitants, who are engaged in farming and fishing. Thence the road runs 8 M. S. E. to Upper Caraquette, where there are about 600 Acadians. Lower Caraquette (two inns) is a French village of 1,500 inhabitants, and is famous for its strong, swift boats and skilful mariners. Caraquette was founded in 1768 by a colony of Bretons, and owed a part of its early growth to intermarriages with the Micmacs. It is a long street of farms m the old Acadian style, and is situated in a fruitful and well-cultivated country. The view from the hills over the village, and especially from the still venerated spot where the old chapel stood, is very pleasant, and includes Miscou and h^luppigan, the Gaspe ports, and the bold Quebec shores. The .lersey house of Robm ic Co. has one of its fishing-establishments here, and does a large business. Caraquette is one of the chief stations of the N. shore fisheries In the year 1873 the fish prodiict of the three lower Maritime Provinces amounted to the value of $9 060,342. Nova Scotia caught |6,.')77,086 worth of fish; and New Brunswick caught $ 2,285,680 worth, of wliich ,ii! 527,312 wore of salmon, JF 500,306 of herring, $346 926 of lobsters, $ 338,699 of codfish, $ 108,511 of alev.ives, $90,065 of hake, $ 64,396 of pollock, $ 45,480 of oysters, $ 41.851 of smelt, and $ 35,477 of mackerel. The line of the highway, and the iioble-viewiu.ic railway track (with sevciai sta- tions) follow the coast of the Bay of Chaleur to the N. W. to Medisco ; Rochotre, 12 M. ; Belledune, 20; Belleduue River, 24; Armstrong's Brook, 28; River Louison. 33; New Mills, 38 ; River Charlo, 44 ; and Dalhousie, 52. Medisco and Rochette are French villages ; the others are of British origin, aud none of them have as many DALllOrSlE. Route 15. G7 as 500 inhabitants. Many small streajns enter the bay from this coast, and the whole district is famous for its fishinu: and hunting (water-fowl). The line of this shore is: followed by the lutercolouial Railway. Oil" B:Uhurst the Bay of Chaleur is over 25 M. wide, and tlie steamer passes out and takes a course to the N. \V., passing the hamlet of Rochette, and soon rounding Belledune Point. The imposing highhmds of the Gas- pesian peninsula are seen on the N. witli the peak of Tracadiegash. 'I'he passage between Tracadiegash Point and Heron Ishmd is about 7 M. wide; and 6-8 M. beyond the steamer passes Maguacha Point {Jfaguacha, In- dian for "Always Red") on the r., and enters the Restigouche Harbor. " To the person approaching by steamer from the sea, is presented one of the most superb and fa.scinating panoramic views in Canada. The whole region is mountainous, and almost precipitous enough to be alpine; but its grandeur is derived less from cliffs, chasms, and peaks, than from far-reaching sweeps of out- line, and continually rising domes that mingle with the clouds. On the Gasp6 .'Side precipitous cUffs of brick-red sandstone flank the shore, so lofty that they seem to cast their gloomy shadows half-way across the Bay, and yawning with rifts and gulhes, through which fretful torrents tumble into the sea. Behind them the mountains rise and fall in long undulations of ultramarine, and, tow- ering above them all, is the famous peak of Tracadiegash flashing in the sunlight like a pale blue amethyst." (Hallock.) Dalhousie (Murp'hy''s Hotel), a village of six hundred inhabitants, at the mouth of the long estuary of the Restigouche, is the capital of Restigouche County (see page 60). It faces on the harbor from three sides, and has great facilities for commerce and for handling lumber. The manufacture and exportation of lumber are here carried on on a large scale; and the town is also famous for its shipments of lobstei-s and salmon. The salmon fisheries in this vicinity are of great value and prndiictivoness. Tlie Inter- cohjiiial Railway has a short branch to Dalhoiisif station. The site of this port was called SicTcadomec by the Indians. 50 years ago there were but two log-houses here, but the district was soon occupied by hardy Highlanders from Arran, Avhose new port and metropolis was "located in an alpine wilderness." Directly back of the village is Mt. Dalhousie, and the hai'bor is protected by the high shores of Dalhousie Island. The Inch Arran House ($10-15 a week) is a fashionable summer-hotel, 1 M . from L>ajLaoUbie, opcncu in laio, on the beacn, wuh boating, Uatlun^', uowhng, tennis, bilhaids, etc. Open J une 16 lo Sept. ib. O rana scenery, ana crout and salmon iishmo'. " The Bay of Chaleur preserves a river-like character for some distance from the point where the river may strictly be said to terminate, and certainly offers the most beautiful scenery' to be seen in the Province From Mr. Fraser's to the sea, a distance of some 20 M. by water, or 14 by land, the course of the river is really beautiful. Swollen to dimensions of majestic breadth, it flows calmly on, amoug picturesque and lofty hills, undisturbed by rapids, and studded with in- numerable islands covered with the richest growth of elm and maple The whole of the distance from Campbellton to Dalhousie, a drive of 17 M. along the coa;fc of the Bay of Chaleur, on an excellent high-road, presents a succession of bcaudful views across the narrow bay, in which Tracadiegash, one of the highest of the Gasp(5 mountains, always forms a conspicuous object, jutting forward as it does into the sea below Da'housie.'" (Hon. Arthur Gordon.) " Nothing can exceed the grandeur and beauty of the approach to the estuary of the Restigouche. The pointed hills in the background, the deep green forest with its patches of cultivation, and the clear blue of the distant mountains, form a pic- ture of the most exquisite kind.'' (Sir R. Bonnycastle.) 68 Route 15. CAMPBELLTON. "The expanse of three miles across the mouth of the Restigouche, the dreamy alpine land beyond, and the broad plain of the Bay of Chaleur, present one of the most splendid and fascinating panoramic prospects to be found on the continent of America, and has alone rewarded us for the pilgrimage we have made." (Charles Lanman.) The estuary of the Eestigouche is 2-4 M. wide, and extends from Dal- housie to Campbellton, about 16 M. Point a la Garde is 9 M. above Dal- housie on the N. shore, and is a bold perpendicular promontory overlooking the harbor. On this and Battery Point (the next to the W.) were the extensive French fortifications which were destroyed by Admiral Byron's British squadron in 1780. Several pieces of artillery and other relics have been obtained from the water off these points. Battery Point is a rocky promontory 80 ft. high, with a plain on the top, and a deep channel around its shores. Point Pleasant is 4 M. distant, and 1 M. back is a spiral mass of granite 700 ft. high, which is accessible b}' natural steps on the E. 1.^ M. from this peak is a pretty forest-lake, in which red trout are abundant. 5 M. N. of Point a la Garde is the main peak of the Scaumenac Mts., which attains an altitude of 1,745 ft. Campbellton {Northern House) is in a diversified region of hills at the head of deep-water navigation on tlie Restigouche, which is here 1 M . wide. One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway is lo- cated here. The adjacent countr}' is highly picturesque, and is studded with conical hills, the chief of which is Sugar Loaf, 900 ft. high. Mission P lint is nearly opposite Campbellton, and is surrounded by fine hill-scenery, which has been likened to that of Wales. The river is rapid off these shores, and abounds in salmon. This place is also known as Point-a-la-Croix, and is one of the chief villages and reservations of the Micmac Indians. It has about 500 inhabitants, with a Catholic church. The Micmac language is said to be a dialect of the Huron tongue ; while the Mili- cetes, on the St. John River, speak a dialect of Delaware origin. These two tribes have an annual council at Mis!^ion Point, at which delegates from the Penobscot Indians are in attendance. The Micmac nation occupies the waste places of the Maritime Provinces, from Newfoundland to Gaspt^, and numbers over 6,000 souls. These Indians are dariag and tireless hunters and fishermen, and lead a life of con- stant roving, gathering annually at the local capitals, .— Chapel Island, in Cape Breton; Ponhook Lake, in Nova Scotia; and Mission Point, in Quebec. They are increasing steadily in numbers, ai d are becoming more valuable members of the Canadian nation. They have hardly yet recovered from the terrible defeat which was inflicted on tliem by an invading army of Mohawks, in 1639. The flower of the Maritime tribes hastened to the border to repel the enemy , but they were met by the Mohawks in the Restigouche country, and were anniiiilated on the field of battle. The chief of the Micmacs at Mission Point visited Queen Victoria in ISijO.ana was kindly welcomed ai:d received jniiuy presents. When Lord A\luier, Governor Gen- eral of Canada, visited Gas p(5, he was waited on by 500 Indinns, whose chief made him a long harangue. But the tribe had recently recovered from a wrcc k (among other things) a box of decantei--l;ibels, marked Rum, Rraapy, Gin , etc. , ami the noble chief, not knowing their purport, had adorned his ears and nose with them, and Burrounded his head with a crown of the same materials. AVhcn the British officers recognized the familiar names, they burst into such a peal of laughter as drove the astonished and incensed chief from their presence forever. RESTIGOrOHE RIVER. nnutr 15. G9 3 M. above Mission Point is Pvint au Bourdo, the nncient site of La Petite Roclielle, deriving its present name from Capt. Bourdo, of the French frigate Marchmdt, wlio was killed in the battle otT this point and was buried here. Fragments of the French vessels, old artillery, camp equip' ments, and shells have been found in great nnmbers in this vicinity. Tn 1760 Restigouche was ileft-ndccl b^' 2 batteries, garrisoned by 250 French regu- lars, TOO Acadiaus, aud 700 Indians ; and iu t!>o harbor lay the Frencli war-vessels Marrkaidt, 32, Bitiijhisaiil, 22, aud Manjiiis Marloije, IS, with 19 prize-ships wliich had been captured from the Euglisli. The place was attacked by a po.verful Britisli lleet, consisting of the Fame, ~i, Dor.'^etshirf, Scarborougli, Achilles, and Repulse, all under the command of Commodore John Byron (grandfather of the poet, Lord By- ron). But little resistance was attempted; and the French fleet and batteries sur- rendered to their formidnble antagonist. The captured ships were carried to Louis- bourg, and the batteries and the 200 houses of Restigouche were destroyed. The Restigouclie River is a stately stream which is navigable for 135 M. above Carapbellton. It runs through level lands for several miles above its mouth, and then is enclosed between bold and rugged shores. There are hundreds of low and level islands of a rich and yearly replenished soil; and above the Tomkedgwick are wide belts of intervale. 30 M. from its mouth it receives the waters of the ^letapedia River, flowing down from the ]Metis ^Its. ; and 35 M. from the mouth is the confluence of the trout- abounding Upsalquitch. 21 M. farther up is the mouth of the Patapedia; and 20 M. beyond this point the Tomkedgwick comes in from the N. W. This system of waters drains over 6,000 square miles of territory, and is connected by portages with the streams which lead into the Bay of Fundy and the River St. Lawrence. The Restigouche is famous for its great and gamy salmon, and for trout, the fisheries being owned by wealthy clubs, largely of Americans. The Metapedia Road leaves the N. shoi-e of the Restigouche a few miles above Campbellton, and strikes through the forest to the N. W. for the St. Lawrence River. This is the route of the new Intercolonial Railway, which passes up through the wilderness to St. Flavie. The distance from Campbellton to St. Flavie is 106 M,, and the railway-fare is $ 3. This road leads across the barren highlands of Gaspe, and through one of the most thinly settled portions of Canada. The French hamlet of St. Alexis is near the mouth of the Metapedia River. Mttapedia is 15 M. above Campbellton, and is situated amid the pretty scenery at the confluence of the Metapedia and Restigouche River-. The salmon-fisheries in this vicinity attract enthusiastic sportsmen everj' year. Near the confluence is the old Fraser mansion, famous among the travellers of earlier days, and now pertaining to the Restigouche Salmon Chib. The Intercolonial Railway crosses the Restiirouche in this vicinity, and has a station at Metapedia. 60 M. beyond is Metapedia Lake. The Metapedia Lake is 12 M. long by 2 M. wide, and is surrounded by low shores of limestone, above and beyond which are distant ranges of highlands. Its waters abound in tuladi (gray trout), trout, and white-fish, 70 Route 16. ST. JOHN TO HALIFAX. and afford good sporting. The lake contains a large island, which is a favorite breeding-place of loons. St. Flavie (two inns) is a village of 450 French people, situated on the S. shore of the River St. Lawrence, and is the point where the Litercolonial Railway reaches the river and turns to the S. W. towards Quebec. Bic, Rimouski, and other stations along the St. Lawrence, are described on pages 250-254. 16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. The Intercolonial Railway. This route traverses the S. E. counties of New Brunswick, passes the isthmus at the head of the Bay of Fundy, and after crossing the Cobequid Mts. and rounding the head of Cobequid Bay, runs S. W. to the city of Halifax. It traverses some in- teresting districts and has a few ghmpses of attractive scenery, but the views are generally monotonous and without any striking beauties. During calm and pleasant ■weather the traveller will find the Annapolis route (see Route 18) much the pleas- anter way to go from St. John to Halifax. There is no change of cars between St. John and Halifax, and baggage is checked through During the summer there is a day express-train, leaving St. John at 7 A. M., and due at Halifax at 7.40 p. m. ; and a night express, leaving St. John at 8.30 p. M., and due at Halifax at 9 A. M. Pullman-cars have been introduced on this line. Stations. — St. John ; Moosepath, 3 M. ; Brookville, 5; Torryburn, 6 ; River- side, 7 ; Rothesay, 9 ; Quispamsis , 12 ; Nauwigewauk,17 ; Hampton, 22; Pas?ekeag, 26; Bloomfield, 27; Norton, 33; Apohaqui, 39; Sussex, 44; Plumweseep, 47; Penobsquis, 51; Anagance, 60 ; Petitcodiac, 66; Pollet River, 71; Salisbury, 76; Boundary Creek, 79 ; Moncton, 89 ; Humphrey, 91 ; Painsec Junction, 97 (Dorches- ter Road, 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; Point du Chene, 108) ; Meadow Brook, 101 ; Memram- cook, 108; Dorchester, 116: Sackville, 127: Aulac, 131; Amherst, 188 : Nappan, 144; Maccan,147; Athol, 151 ; Spring Hill, 156 ; Salt Springs, 164; River Philip, 167; Thompson, 174 ; Greenville, 181; Went worth, 187 ; Folly Lake, 191 ; London- derry, 199; Debert, 204; Ishgonish, 208; Truro, 216; Johnson, 220; Brookfield, 224 ; Polly Bog, 229 ; Stewiacke, 233 ; Shubenacadie, 238 ; Milford, 242 ; Elmsdale, 247; Enfield, 249; Grand Lake, 254 ; Wellington, 256 ; Windsor Junction, 264 ; Rocky Lake, 266; Bedford, 269 ; Four-Mile House, 278 ; Halifax, 276. Fares from St. John. — To Sussex, 1st class, $ 1.32, — 2d class, 88c. ; to Moncton, 1st class, $2-67, — 2d class, $1.78 ; to Shediac, 1st class, S^3, — 2d class, ^ 2 ; to Amherst, l«t class, % 3.78, — 2d class, % 2.52 ; to Truro, 1st class, $ 5.02, ~2d class, $3.35; to Halifax, 1st class, $6, — 2d clasf', $4. Fare.'i from Halifax.— To Truro, 1st class, SI 86, - 2d class, $1.24 : to Pictou, 1st class, "$3.18. —2d class. $2.12; to Amherst, 1st class, $3.78, —2d class, $2.52 ; to Shediac, 1st class, $4.56, — 2d class, $3.04; to Sussex, 1st class, $5 31, --2d class, $ 3 54 ; to St. John, 1st class, $ 6, — 2d class, $ 4. Way-passengers can estimate their expenses easily on the basis of 3c. per mile for 1st class, and 2c. per mile for 2d class tickets, which is the tariff fixed hy the Canadian Government for all distances of less than 100 M. on its national rail- ways. On leaving the Valley station, in the city of St. John (see page 19), the train passes out into the Marsh Valley, which is ascended foi- several miles (see page 22). A short distance beyond Moosepath Park the line crosses Lawlor's LaJce on an embankment which cost heavih'-, on accouv.t of the great depth to which the ballasting sunk. The Kennebeeasis Bay is soon seen, on the 1., and is skirted for 5 M., passing the villas of Rothesay (see page 22), and giving pleasant views over the broad waters. Qulspam- SUSSEX VALE. Route W. 71 sis station is 3 M. S. of Gondola Point, whence a ferry crosses the Ken- nebecasis to the pretty hamlet of Clifton. The narrowing valley is now followed to the N. E., with occasional glimpses of the river on the 1. Hitmpton (two hotels) is the shire-town of Kings County, whose new pub- lic buildings are seen to the r. of the track. It is a thriving village of re- cent origin, and is visited in sunnuer by tlie people of St. Jolni, ou account of the hill-scenery in the vicinity. St. Martin's, or Quaco, is about 30 M. S. E., on the Ba)' of Fundy, and is now coniieited with Hampton by railway. (It is also visited by daily stajje from St. John in 32 M., fare S 1 50 ; a rugged road) This is one of the chief ship- building towns in the province, and has over 1,000 inhabitants, with several churches and other public buildings. It was originally settled by the King's Orange Rangers, and has recently become a favorite point for summer excursions from St. John. The hotel accommodation is inferior. S. of the village is the tall lighthouse on Quaco llead, sustaining a revolving white light The name Quaco is a contraction of the Indian words Gulwahgnhgre, meaning " the Home of the Sea-cow."' The shores about Quaco are bold and picturesque, fronting the Bay with lofty iron-bound clitfs, among which are small strips of stony beaches. The strata are highly inclined and in some cases are strangely contorted, while their shelves and crevices are adorned with pine-trees. Qiidco Head is 2 M. from St. Martin's, and is 350 ft. high, surrounded by cliffs of red sandstone 250 ft in height. This bold promontory rises directly from the sea, and is crowned by forests. The harbor of Quaco is rather pretty, whence it has been likened to the Bay of Naples. Tracifs Lake is about 5 M. from Quaco, on the Loch Lomond road, and is noted for au abundance of trout. 10-12 M N. of the village is the Mount Theobald Lake, a small round forest-pool in which trout are found in great numbers. Hampton station is 1 M. from the village of Hampton Ferry, and beyond liloonitiehl tlie train reaches Norton, whence a railway runs to Grand Lake. Apohaqui (Apohaqiii Hotel) is a village of 300 inhabitants, on the upper Ko(ly Mountain is the highest in the county (1 050 ft.), and gives a magnificent view of Albert and T\"estmoreland Counties. The whole region is iich in mines and quarries, and supplies the tourist with very good scenery, fisuing, and game. Branch railways run from Petitcodiac to lillgin aud Havelock. Beyond Salisbury the Halifax train runs 13 M. X E. to Moncton {Hotel Brunsivick), the headquarters of the Intercolonial Kailwaj^ and the site of its extensive machine-shops. It is well laid out, and has 10 churches, 2 daih- papers, and large manufacturing works. Its situation at the head of navigation on the Petitcodiac gives certain commercial advantages, and affords opportunity for the visitor to see the great "Pore," or tide-wave, of the Bav of Fundy. At the beginning of the flood-tide a wall of water 4-6 ft. high, sweeps up the river, and within 6 hours the stream rises TO ft The Intercolonial Railway runs N. from Moncton, and is completed to meet the Canadian Railway system at Riviere du Loup. It passes through o;- near the chi^-f towns of the North Shore, and follows the Bay of Chalcur for many miles. See page 59 a. A railroad runs from Moncton to Buctouche, 32 M. .Mu'icton has 7.000 inhabi'ants, a sugar refinery, cotton, \arn, shoe, loclc, anj knitting fMCtories, electric lights, wnter works, nn rpera hou.-^e, etc The Halifax train runs out to the N. E. from Moncton, and after p.issmg Fainsec Junction (see page 59) deflects to the S E. into the Memramcook SACKVILLE. Route IG. 73 Vallev. It soon reaches the connected vllhiges of Memrameook and St. Joseph (three inns), occupying the centre of a prosperous farming district ^vhich is inliabited by over 1,000 Acadians, — a pious and simple-hearted Catholic peasantry, — a large portion of whom belong to the prolific fami- lies of Leblanc, Cormier, Gandet, and Bouque. On the opposite shore is the College of St. Joseph de jMcmramcook, where about 100 students (mostly from Canada and the United States) are conducted through a high-school curriculum by 12 friars and ecclesiastics. Near the college is the handsome stone Church of St. Joseph de Memrameook. The Valley of the Memrameook, down which the train descends to Dor- chester, possesses one of the most charming landscapes in the country. Two high parallel ridges, wooded and well settled, are seen on either hand, while the valley itself, like the Tantramar Marshes, is a dead level, miles in length, being made up from the sea by tidal deposits, and in June it is an ocean of bright green. Dorcliester {Dorchester Hotel) is a pros- perous village of 800 inhabitants, situated near the month of the river and among the finest wheat-lands in New Brunswick. Dorchester has 4 churches, the public buildings of Westmoreland County, and numerous pleasant residences. On the opposite side of the Memrameook, at Rock- land, are quarries of freestone, several thousand tons of which are shipped annually to Boston and New York. Shipbuilding and shipowning is the leading business. The traveller by train is surprised to ?ee vessels of 1,000 tons, being built in the woods, two miles from apparent water. They are launched at high-tides into a creek at hand. A large and im- posing freestone building on tlie heights above the town is the Dominion Penitentiary for the Maritime Provinces. A ferry crosses Shepody Bay to Hopewell Cape (see page 72); and G-8 M. W. of Dorchester is Belliveau village, nine tenths of whose inhabitants belong to the fami- lies of Belliveau, Gautreault, and Melan^on. This settlement was named in honor of the venerable M. Belliveau, whose long life extended from 1730 to 1840. In 1776 many of the Acadians of this vicinity joined the New England forces under Col. Eddy, who occupied Sackville and attacked Fort Cumberland (see page 78). The train now runs E. 12 M. from Dorchester to Sackville {Brunsivich House), a rising and prosperous village of about 1,500 inhabitants, situated on a red sandstone slope at the mouth of the Tantramar i River, near the head of the Bay of Fundy. It ha* .ship-yards, a stove foundry, a news- paper, and 8 churches. Sackville is the seat of the Mount Allison Wes- leyan College, an institution which was founded by Mr. C F. Allison, and is conducted by the Wesleyan Conference of Eastern British America. It includes a small college, a theological hall, and academies for boys and girls. A road leads from Sackville S. E. down the rugged headland be- tween Cumberland Basin and Shepody Bay, passing the marine hamlets of Woodpoint (5 M.), Rockport (12 M.), and N. Joggins, 14 ]\I. from Sack- ville, and near the highlands of Cape Marangouin. 1 Tantramar, from the French word Tintamnrre, meaning " a thundering noise." 4 74 Route 16. TANTRAMAR MARSH. Sackville is the point established for the outlet of the projected B^iie Terte Canal, a useful work 18 M. long, which would allow vessels to pass f^om the Bay of Fundy to the Gulf of St. Lawrence without having to round the iron-bound pe- ninsula of Nova Scotia. This canal has been planned and desired for over a cen- tury, but nothing has yet been done, except the surveying of the istlxaius. Tri- weekly stages run N. E. along the telegraph-road from Sackville to Jolicoeur (10 M ), Bale Verte Road (14 M.), Baie Verte (18 M., small inn), and Port Elgin (20 M. ; inn). About 16 M. N. E. of Port Elgin is Cape iormeiitiiie, " the great headland which forms the E. extremity of New Brunswick within the Gulf Indian Point may be said to form the southei'n, and Cape Jourimain the northern points of this headland, which is a place of importance in a nautical point of view, not only from its position, but from its dangerous and extensive shoals." The submarine tele- graph to Prince Edward Island crosses from Cape Jourimain ; and it is from thi.s point that the winter mail-service is conducted, when the mails, passengers, and baggage are subjected to an exciting and perilous transit in ice-boats to Cape Trav- erse. Baie Verte is 9 M. wide and 11 M. deep, but affords no good shelter. It re- ceives the Tignish and Gaspereau Rivers, and at the mouth of the latter are the ancient ruins of Fort Moncton. About 200 students attend the Mount-Allison Educational Institution. Sackville possesses 40 square miles of marsh lands, that produce enormous crops of grasses. Large shipments of hay and cattle are made from here; the latter to the English markets. The bogs and lakes at the head of the marshes are haunts of snipe and duck, and are a favorite resort of sports- men. Sackville has a Music Hall. The New-Brunswick & Prince- Edward-Island Railway runs from Sackville to Cape Tormentine, stop- ping at intermediate points (see above). This is the winter mail-route to P. E. Island. At Sackville the Halifax train crosses the Tantramar River, and runs out over the wide Tantramar Marsh, to Aulac, or Cole's Island (stage to Cape Tormentine), near which it crosses the Aulac River. Trains are sometimes blocked in on these plains during the snow-storms of winter, and the passengers are subjected to great hardships. The Missiguash. River is next crossed, with the ruins of Fort Beausejour (Cumberland) on the N., and of Fort Beaubassin (Lawrence) on the S. These forts are best visited from Amherst, which is 4-5 M. distant, and is reached after trav- ersing the Missiguash Harsh. The Missiguash River is the boundary between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, and Amherst is the first town reached in the latter Province. Fort Lawrence is the W. terminus of the proposed Chignecto Marine Railway, whereby it is intended to carry ships of 1,000 tons with their cargoes between the Straits of Northumberland and the Bay of Fundy, a distance of 17 M. The Canadian Government has subsidized the pro- ject with $150,000 per annum for 25 years, and an English Company- began work in 1883. This scheme is a substitute for the Baie Verte Canal, which was abandoned in 1875. Amherst to Halifax, see Route 17. XOYA SCOTIA. The Province of Nova Scotia is peninsular in location, and is connected with the mainland by an isthmus 8 M. wide. It is bounded on the N. by the Bay of Fundy, the Strait of Northumberland, and theGulf of St. Law- rence; on the E. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean; and on the W. by tlie ocean, the Bay of Fundy, and the Province of New Brunswick. Its length, from Cape Canso to Cape St. Mary, is 383 M., and its breadth varies from 50 M. to 104 !M. The area of the peninsula is 16,000 square miles. The population is 450,523, of whom 117,487 are Roman -Catholics, 112,000 Pres- byterians, 83,500 Baptists, G0,255 Church of England people, 51,000 Metho- dists, and 68 Unitarians. 405,000 are natives of Nova Scotia, and 21,000 from the British Islands. " Acadie is much warmer in summer and much colder in winter than the countries in Europe lying under the same parallels of latitude" (Southern France, Sardinia, Lombardy, Genoa, Venice, Northern Tur- key, the Crimea, and Circassia). "The spring season is colder and the autumn more agreeable than those on the opposite side of the Atlantic. Its climate is favorable to agriculture, its soil generally fertile. The land is well watered by rivers, brooks, and lakes. The supply of timber for use and for exportation may be considered as inexhaustible. The fish- eries on the coasts are abundant, Tte harbors are numerous and excel- lent. Wild animals are abundant, among which are remarkable the moose, caribou, and red deer. Wild fowl also are plenty. Extensive tracts of alluvial land of great value are found on the Bay of Fundy. These lands have a natural richness that dispenses with all manuring; all that is wanted to keep them in order is spade-work. As to cereals, — wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat, maize, all prosper. The potato, the hop, flax, and hemp are everywhere prolific. The vegetables of the kitchen garden are successfully raised. Of fruit there are many wild kinds, and the apple, pear, plum, and cherry seem almost indigenous, . The vine thrives; good grapes are often raised in the open air. It was said by a French writer that Acadie produced readily everything that grew in Old France, except the olive. " In the peninsula, or Acadie proper, there is an abundance of mineral wealth. Coal is found in Cumberland and Pictou; iron ore, in Colchester and Annapolis Counties; gypsum, in Hants; marble and limestone, in dif- ferent localities; freestone, for building, at Remsheg (Port Wallace) and 76 NOVA SCOTIA. Pictpu ; granite, near Halifax, Shelburne, etc. ; brick clay, in the counties of Halifax and Annapolis. Tf'e amethysts of Parrsborough and its vicin- ity have been long celebrated, and pearls have been found lately in the Annapolis River. The discovery of gold along the whole Atlantic shore of the peninsula of Nova Scotia has taken place since 1860, and it now gives steady remunerative employment to about 800 or 1,000 laborers, with every expectation of its expansion." (Beamish Murdoch.) The pro- duction of gold from the Nova-Scotia mines amounts to $400,000 a year. In 1881, Nova Scotia had 440,572 inhabitants, of whom 146,027 are of Scotch origin, 128,986 English, 66,067 Irish, 41,219 French. Of these, 117,487 are Eoman Catholics, 112,488 Presbyterians, 83,761 Baptists, 60,255 of the Church of England, and 50 811 Methodists. The territory now occupied by the Maritime Provinces was known for nearly two centuries by the name of Acadie,'^ and was the scene of fre- quent wars between Britain and France. Its first discoverers were the Northmen, about the year 1000 a. d., and Sebastian Cabot rediscovered it in 1498. In 1518 and 1598 futile attempts were made by French nobles to found colonies here, and French fishermen, fur-traders, and explorers frequented these shores for over a century. In 1605 a settlement was founded at Port Royal, after the discoveries of De Monts and Champlain, but it was broken up in 1618 by the Virginians, who claimed that Acadia belonged to Britain by virtue of Cabot's discovery. In 1621 James I. of England granted to Sir Wihiam Alexander the domain called Nova Scotia, including all the lands E. of a line drawn from Passamoquoddy Bay N. to the St. Lawrence; but this claim was renounced in 1632, and the rival French nobles. La Tour and D'Aulnay, commenced their fratri- cidal wars, each striving to be sole lord of Acadie. In 1654 the Province was captured by a force sent out by Cromwell, but the Fi-ench interest soon regained its former position. The order of the Baronets of Nova Scotia was founded by King Charles I., in 1625, and consisted of 150 well-born gentlemen of Scotland, who re- ceived, with their titles and insignia, grants of 18 square miles each, in the wide domains of Acadia. These manors were to be settled by the baronets at their own expense, and were expected in time to yield handsome revenues. But little was ever accomplished by this order. Meantime Cardinal Richelieu founded and became grand master of a more powerrr.l French association called the Company of Now France (1627). It cun- 1 Acadia is the Anglicized (or Latinized) form of Acadie, an Indian word sipnifving "tlie place," or "the region." It is a part of the compound words Segeelwti-acadic li^iiu- benacadic', meaning " place of wild potatoes "; Tulhik-radir (Tracndie , ineaning " dwelliiip- place"; Sun-dcadie, or "place of cranberries'; Kitpoo-acculi: . or " phu'e o1 englos and others of similar form. The Milicete tribes pioiKuuiced tiiis word " Qiioddy, \ylience Vestwuoo-uuoddy (Passamoquoddy, meaning " I'lace of \)Mw\<^' ■. Aooui-qijoddii. or "place of seals," etc. When a British otHcer was descending the l^hubenaciulie with a Mic- mac guide, he inquired how the name originated ; the Indian answered. " Because plenty wild potatoes — --codeben — once grew liere." " Well, ' acadie,' Paul, what does that mean ? " Means — where you find em," rejoined the Micmac. NOVA SCOTIA. 77 sisted of 100 members, who received Acadia, Quebec, Florida, and New- Ibundhind " in simple homage,'* and had power to erect duchies, marquis- ates, and seigniories, subject to the royal appi-oval. They allowed French Catholics only to settle on these lands, and were protected by national frigates. This order continued for 40 years, and was instrumental in founding numerous villages along the Nova-Scotian coast. In 1690 the New-Knglanders overran the Province and seized the for- tresses, but it was restored to France in 1697. In 1703 and 1707 unsuc- cessful expeditions were sent from Massachusetts against the Acadian strongholds, but they were finally captured in 1710; and in 1713 Nova Scotia was ceded to Great Britain bj' the Treaty of tJtrecht. The Prov- ince was kept in a condition of disorder for the next 40 years, by the dis- affection of its French population and the lawlessness of the Indians, and the British fortresses were often menaced and attacked. After the founda- tion of Halifax, in 1749, a slow tide of immigi-ation set in and strengthened the government. In 1755 the French people in the Province (7,000 in num- ber) were suddenly seized and transported to the remote American colo- nies, and the French forts on the Baie-Vcrte frontier were captured. In 1758 the first House of Assembly met at Halifax, and in 1763 the French power in America was finally and totally crushed. At the close of the Kevolution, 20,000 self-exiled Americans settled in NoVa Scotia; and in 1784 New Brunswick and Cape Bi-eton were withdrawn and made into separate provinces (Cape Breton was reunited to Nova Scotia in 1820). During the Revolution and the War of 1812 Halifax was the chief station of the British navy, and the shores of the Province were continually harassed by American privateers. In 1864 a convention was held at Charlottetown, P. E. I., to consider measures for forming a federal union of the Maritime Provinces. During the session Canadian delegates were admitted, on the request of the St. Lawrence Provinces ; and a subsequent congress of all the Provinces was held at Quebec, at which the plan of the Dominion of Canada was elabo- rated. It is now thought that this quasi-national government does not fulfil all the original wishes of the seaboard regions, and that it may be well to unite (or reunite) the Maritime Provinces into one powerful province called Acadia, by which the expense of three local legislatures and cabi- nets could be saved, their homogeneous commercial interests could be favored by uniform laws, and the populous and wealthy Provinces of Que- bec and Ontario could be balanced in the Dominion Parliament. " There are perhaps no Provinces in the world possessing finer harbors, or furnishing in greater abundance all the conveniences of life. The climate is quite mild and very healthy, and no lands have been found that are not of surpassing fertility Finally, nowhere are there to be seen forests more beautiful or with wood better fitted for buildings and masts. There 78 Route 17. AMHERST, are in some places copper mines, and in others of coal The fish most commonly caught on the coast are the cod, salmon, mackerel, herring, sardine, shad, trout, gotte, gaparot, barbel, sturgeon, goberge, — all fish that can be salted and exported. Seals, walruses, and whales are found in great numbers The rivers, too, are full of fresh-water fish, and the banks teem with countless game." (Father Charlevoix, 1765.) "Herewith I enter the lists as the champion of Nova Scotia Were I to give a first-class certificate of its general character, I would afiirm that it yields a greater variety of products for export than any territory on the globe of the same superficial area. This is saying a great deal. Let ixs see : she has ice, lumber, ships, salt-fish, salmon and lobsters, coal, iron, gold, copper, plaster, slate, grindstones, fat cattle, wool, potatoes, apples, large game, and furs." (Charles Hallock, 1873.) 17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. St. John to Amhei'st, see preceding route. Amherst ' (Amherst Hotel) is a fiourishing town midway between St, John and Halifax (138 M. from each). It is the capital of Cumberland County, Nova Scotia, and is pleasantly situated at the head of the Cumberland Basin, one of the great arms of the Bay of Fundy. It has 4,500 inhabitants, and is engaged in the lumber trade ; while the im- mense area of fertile meadows about the town furnishes profitable employ- ment for a large rural population. Bi-weekly stages run N. E. up the valley of the La Planche to Tidnish (two inns), a village of 300 inhabitants on Bale Verte. Tri-weekly stages run N. E. to Shinimicas and the large farming district called the Head of Amherst, which has over 2,000 in- habitants. The present domain of Nova Scotia was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Utrecht, in 1713, but its boundaries were not defined, and the French determined to limit it on the N. to the Missiguash River. To this end Gov. La Jonqui(§re sent M. La Corne, with 600 soldiers, to erect forts on the line of the Missiguash. The war- rior-priest, the Abb6 Laloutre (Vicar-General of Acadie), led many Acadians to this vicinity, where the flourishing settlement of Beavbassin was founded. At the same time La Corne established a chain of military posts from the Bay of Fundy to Bale Verte, the chief fort being located on the present site of Fort Cumberland, and bear- ing the name of Beausejoiir. The governor of Nova Scotia sent out a British force under Major Lawrence, who captured and destroyed Beaubassin, and erected Fort Lawrence near its site. The Acadians were industriously laboring in the peaceful pursuits of agricvilture about Beausejour; and the King of France had granted 80.000 livres for the great aboideau across the Aulac River. Tbe British complained, however, that the priests were endeavoring to array the Acadians against them, and to entice them away from the Nova-Scotian shores. It was resolved that the French forces should be driven from their position, and a powerful expedition was fitted out at Boston. Three frigates and a number of transports coTiveying tlie New- England levies sailed up the Bay of Fundy in May, 1755, and debarked a strong FORT CUMBERLAND. Roulc 17. 79 land force at Fort La\vrence. Meantime 1,200-1,500 Acadians had been gathered about Boausojour, by the intiucnce of the Abbt^ Laloutre, and a sharp skirmish waa fought ou L'lsle do la Vallierc. On the -ith of June the An.i^io-American forces left their camps ou tlie jrlaiis of Fort Lawrence, routed the Acadians at tlie fords of tlio .Missi^uasli. and advanced by parallels and siege-lines against the liostile works. When the British batteries reached Butte-a-C'h;irIcs the fort was vigorously shelled, and with such disastrous effect tliat it capitulated on June IGth, the garrison marcli- ing out with arms, bagg-age, and banners. The French troops were paroled and sent to Louisbourg, and the Acadians were suffered to remain. Laloutre, escaping to Quebec, thei'e received an ecclesiastical censure, and was afterwards remanded to Frunce. In November, 1776, Col. Eddy led a force of Massachusetts troops, men of Mau- gerville, Acadians, and Indians, against Fort Cumberland. He first cut out a store- vessel from under the guns of the fort, and captured several detachments of the gar- rison i^the Royal Fenclbles). The commandant refused to surrender, and repulsed the Americans in a night-attack, by means of a furious cannonade. Eddy then blockaded the fort for several days, but was finally driven off by the arrival of a man-of-war from Halifiix, bringing a reinforcement of 400 men. The Massachusetts camp was broken up l\y a sortie, and all its stores were desti-oyed. The Americans fled to the forest, and "fell back on the St. John River. A large proportion of the men of Cumberland County went to Maine after this campaign, despairing of the success of Ran daily. Scientific mining was begun in 18t'3, but has given only light returns. Middle Musquodoboit is a farming-town with about 1,000 inhabitants, situated on the S. of the Boar"s Back ri ge, 42 M. from Halifax. Upper Musquodoboit is about the same size, and beyond that point the stages traverse a dreary and thinly settled district for severaLleagues, to Melrose. The Halifax train runs S. W. to Elmsdah^ a village near the Shuben- acadie River, engaged in making leather and carriages. Enfield is the seat of a large pottery. 7 M. N. W. are the Renfrew Gold-Mines, Avhere gold-bearing quartz was discovered in 1861. Much money and labor were at first wasted by inexperienced miners, but of late years the lodes have been worked systematicall}^ and are considered among the most valuable in Nova Scotia. The avei'age yield is 16 pennyweights of gold to a ton of quartz, and in 1869 these mines yielded 3,097 ounces of the precious metal, valued at $61,490. The Oldham Mines are 3J M. S. of Enfield, and ai-e in a deep narrow valley, along whose bottom shafts have been sunk to reach the auriferous quartz. Between 1861 and 1869, 9,254 ounces of gold were sent from the Oldham diggings. In 1883 1,500 tons of quarts Avere crushed, yielding over 3,000 ounces of gold- Soon after leaving Enfield the train passes along the S. E. shore of Grand Lake, which is 8 M. long by 1-2 M. wide. It crosses the outlet stream, runs around Long Lake, and intersects the Windsor Branch Railway nt Windsor Junction. Station, Rochy Lake, on the lake of the same name, where large quantities of ice are cut by the Nova-Scotia Ice Company, for exportation to the United States. 3 M. N. E. of this station are the Wavcr- ley Gold-Mines, where the gold is found in barrel-quartz, so named because it appears in cylindrical masses like barrels laid side by side, or like a corduroy-road. At its first discovery all the floating population of Halifax flocked out here, but they f!^iled to better their condition, and the total yield between 1861 and 1869 was only about 1,600 ounces. Waverley vil- lage is picturesquely situated in a narrow valley between two lakes, and has about 600 inhabitants. ANNAPOLIS ROUTE. Route 18. 83 After crossing Rocky Lake the train soon reaches the pretty village of Bedford {Btdford I/ottl), on the shores of the beautiful Bedford Bdsin, and fullows their graceful curves for several miles. On tiie 1. are fine views of the hills beyond the blue water. There is a Dominion lish-hatchery at Bedford. Halifax, see page 93. 18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley. This is tiie pleasantest route, during calm wt athor, betwuen the chief cities of the Maritime Proviuces. After a pussjige uf about 4 liours in the steamer, across the Bay of Fundy, the pretty scenery of the Annapolis Basin is traversed, and at Annapolis the passenger takes the train of the Windsor & Annapolis Railway, which ruus through to Halifax. Tlie line traverses a comparatively rich and picturesque coun- try, abounding in historic and poetic associations of the deepest interest. The distance between St. John and Halifax by this route is 84 M. less than by the Intercolonial Railway ; but the time on both routes is about the same, on account of the delav in crossing the Bay of Fiindv. The steamer leaves St. John at 7 a. m., on Monday, We Inesday, Thiir-day, Friday, and Saturday, connecting with the ex- press trains which leave Annapolis at 1.10 p. m. and arrive at Halifax at about 7 P. M. Express trains leave Tl.ilifax at 8.15 a. m. on Tue.^day, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, con'iecting with the steamer which leaves Annapolis at 1.30 p. m. and arrives at St. John at 6 p. m. Fares. — 6c. ouu.i to H:i.ifax, Istclass, $4.50; 2d class, -¥350 ; to Digby, $150; to AnnapoUs $2. Passengers for Halifax dine on tae steamer and take tea at Kent- ville (15 minutes) ; those for St. John lunch at Kentville (10 minutes) an'1 din • on the boat. There are two through trains each way daily between Halifax and Annapolis. distances. — St. John to i)igby, 43 M. ; Annapolis, 61 : Round Hill, 68 ; Bridge- town, 75; Paradise, 80; Lawrencetown, 83; Middleton, 89; Wilmot, 92; Kingston, 96; Morden Road, 101 ; Aylesford, 103 ; Berwick, 108 ; Waterville, 111 ; Cambridge, 113; Coldbrook, 115; Kentville, 120; Port Williams, 125; Wolfville, 127; Grand Pr^.l.SO; Horton Landing, 1.31: Avonport, 1.33; Hantsport, 138; Mount Denson, 140; Falmouth, 143; Windsor, 145 ; Three-Mile Plains, 148 ; Newport, 151 ; Eliers- house, 154 ; Stillwater, 1.57 ; Mount Uniacke, 164 ; Beaver Bank, 174 ; Windsor Junc- tion, 177 ; Rocky Lake, 179 ; Bedford, 182; Rockingham, 186; Hilifiix, 190. The steamer leaves her wharf at Reed's Point, St. John, and soon passes the heights and spires of Carleton on the r. and the lighthouse on Partridge Island on the 1., beyond which Mispeck Point is seen. Cape Spencer is then opened to the E., on the New Brunswick coa>t, and the steamer sweeps out into the open bay. In ordinary summer weather the bay is quiet, except for a light tidal swell, and will not affect the traveller. Soon after passing Partridge Island, the dark ridge of the North Mt. is seen in advance, cleft by the gap called the * Digby Gut, which, in the earlier days, was known as St. George's Channel. The course is laid straight for this pass, and the steamer runs in by Point Prim, with its fog- whistle and fixed light (visible 13 M.), and enters the tide-swept defile, with bold and mountainous bluffs rising on either side. The shores on the 1. are 610 feet high, and on the r. 400-560 ft., between which the tide rushes with a velocity of 5 knots an hour, making broad and powerful swirls and eddies over 12 -25 fathoms of water. After running for about 2 M. through this passage, the steamer enters the Annapolis Basin, and runs S. by E. 3 M. to Digby. 84 Route IS. ANNAPOLIS BASIN. "The white houses of Digby, scattered over the downs like a flock of washed sheep, had a somewhat chilly aspect, it is true, and made us long for the sun on them But as 1 think of it now, I prefer to have the town and the pretty hillsides that stand about the basin in the light we saw them ; and especially do 1 like to recall the high wooden pier at Digby, deserted by the tide and so blown by the wind that the passengers who came out on it, with their tossing drapery, brought to mind the windy Dutch harbors that Backhiiysen painted." (vVaRN-R's Baddeck.) Dig-by {Daley's Hotel) is a maritime village of about 1,800 inhabitants, with 6 churches, 2 weekly papers, and 30 shops, situated on the S. W. shore of the Annapolis Basin, and engaged in shipbuilding and the fish- eries of haddock, mackerel, and herring. The Digby herring are famous for their delicacy, and are known in the Provinces as " Digby chickens." Porpoises, also, are caught in the swift currents of the Digby Gut. Quite recently Digby has become well known as a summer-resort. The fogs which hang like a pall over the Bay of Fundy are not encountered here-, and the lovely scenery hereabouts, and boating, bathing, and fishing afford sufficient amusement. The comfortable Myrtle House, near the water, amid three acres of fruit-orchards, is crowded all summer by Americans and Canadians. There is a steamship line from Boston to Digby direct. A French fort stood here in the early days ; and in 1783 the township was granted to the ex-American Loyalists. A railroad runs to Yarmouth and to Annapolis. " That portion of Acadia at which the voyagers had now arrived is distinguished by the beauty of its scenery. The coast along which they had previously sailed is comparatively rugged. But on entering the Basin the scene is changed, many of the peculiar elements which lend a charm to the Acadian landscape being found in har- monious combination. Towards the east, islands repose on the bosom of the deep, their forms being vividly mirrored on its placid surface, and from which canoes may be seen darting towards the mainland, with their paddles fitfully flashing in the sunlight. Tn the distance are graceful, undulating hills, thickly c]ad, from base to summit, with birch, maple, hemlock, and spruce woods, constituting an admirable background to the whole scene." (Campbell's History of Nova Scotia.) The noble * Annapolis Basin gradually decreases from a width of nearly b M. to 1 M., and is hemmed in between the converging ridges of the North Mt. and the South 3ft. The former range has a height of 6 - 700 ft., and is bold and mountainous in its outlines. The South Mt. is from 300 to 500 ft. high, and its lines of ascent are more gradual. The North Mt. was once insulated, and the tides flowed through the whole valley, until a phoQ.l at the confluence of the Blomidon and Digby currents became a bar, and this dp tame became dry land and a water-shed. Between the head of Argyle Bay and the slopes of the Annapolis Basin are the rarely visited and sequestered hill-ranges called the Blue Moun- tains. " The Indians are said to have formerly resorted periodically to groves among these wilds, which they considered as consecrated places, in order to ofter sacrifipes to their gods." " We wer^ sailing along the gracefujly jnoulded and tree-covei-ed hills of the An- napolis Basin, arid up the mildly picturesque river of that name, and we were about to enter what the provincials all enthusiastically call the Garden of Nova Scotia. .... It is, — this valley of Annapolis, — in the belief of provincials, the most beau- tiful and blooming place in the world, with a soil and climate kind to the husband- ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. Route IS. 85 man, a laud of fair meadows, orchards, and vines It was not until we liad travelled over the rest of the country that we saw the appropriateness of the designation. The explanation is, that not so much is required of a garden here as in some other parts of the world."' Sooji after leaving Digbv, Bear Island is seen in-shore on the r., in front of the little port o^ Btcir River (inn), which has a foundry, tanneries, and saw-mills. Iron and gold are found in the vicinity, and lumber and cord- Avood are exported hence to the United States and the West Indies. A ^Q\y miles beyond, and also on the S. shore, is the hamlet of Clementsport (two inns), where large iron-works were formerly established, in connectioa with the ore-beds to the S. Roads lead thence to the S. W. in 10-12 M. to the romantic districts of the Blue Mts. and the upper Liverpool Lakes (see Route 27), at whose entrance is the rural village of Cltmentsvale. 8-10 M. beyond Digby the steamer passes Goat Island, of which Lescarbot writes, in Les Muses de la Nouvelle France (1609) : " Adieu mon doiix plaisir fonteines et ruisseaux, Qui les vaux et les nionts arrousez de vos eaux. Pourray-je t'oublier, belle ile foretiere Riclie honneur de ce lieu et de cette riviere ?" In 1707 the British frigate Annibal and two brigautines were sailing up the Basin to attack Annapolis, when they met such a sharp volley from the Ile aux Chevres that they were forced to retire in confusion. The French name of the island was Angli- cized by translation. On the point near this island was the first settlement of the French in Nova Scotia. A fort was erected here by the Scottish pioneers, and was restored to France by the Treaty of St. Germain, after which it was garrisoned by French troops. In 1827 a stone block was found on the point, in.scribed with a square and compass and the date " 1606." In May, 1782, there was a naval combat off Goat Island, in which an American war-brig of 8 guns was captured by H. M. S. Buckram . Above the island the Basin is about 1 M. wide, and is bordered by farm- streets. To the N. ?]., across a low alluvial point, are seen the spires and ramparts of Annapolis Royal, where the steamer soon reaches her wharf, after passing under the massive walls of the old fortress. There are sev- eral small inns here, the Dominion, Commercial, American, Clifton, Per- kins, Hillsdale, and Oakland Farm, etc., and Mrs. Grassie's summer board- ina:-house. Their rates are $5-6 a week, and board can be obtained on adjacent farms for S3-5 a week. A railway runs from Annapolis to Clem- entsport, 8^ M. ; Victoria Bridge, 1-3^; Digby, 20^; and thence to Yar- mouth, 87i. Stages run S. E. 78 M. to Liverpool (see Route 27). Steam- boats leave Annapolis for Boston, direct, every Tuesday and Friday after- noon ; and another steamboat makes daily trip« between Annapolis and Diirby, connecting with the Western-Counties Railwa3\ Annapolis Royal, the capital of Anna police County, is a maritime and agricultural village, situated at the head of the Annapolis Basin, and con- tains 1.200 inhabitants. It is frequented by summer visitors on account of its pleasant environs and tempered sea-air, and the opportunities for salt- water fishing in the Basin, and trouting among the hills to the S. The chief object of interest to the passing traveller is the * old fortress which fronts the Basin and covers 28 acres vvith its ramparts and outworks. It is entered by the way of the fields opposite Perkins's Hotel. The works are disarmed, and have remained unoccupied for many years. One of the 86 Route 18. ANNAPOLIS EOYAL. last occupations Avas that of the Rifle Brigade, in 1850; but the post was abandoned soon after, on account of the numerous and successful deser- tions which thinned the ranks of the garrison. But when Canada passed into a state of semi-independence in 1867, this fortress was one of the few domains reserved to the British Crown. The inner fort is entered by an ancient arclaway which fronts towards the Basin, giving passage to the parade-ground, on which are the quaint old English barracks, with steep roofs and great chimnej^s. In the S. E. bastion is the magazine, with a vaulted roof of masonry, near which are the foundations of the French barracks. From the parapet on this side are overlooked the landward out- works and the lines of the old Hessian and Waldecker settlements towards Clementsport. , On the hillside beyond the marsh is seen an ancient house of the era of the French occupation, the only one now standing in the val- ley. In the bastion towards the river is a vaulted room, whence a passage leads down to the French garrison-wharf; but the arched way has fallen in, and the wharf is now but a shapeless pile of stones. The * view from this angle of the Avorks is very beautiful, including the villages of Annapo- lis Royal and Granville, the sombre heights of the North and South Mts., and the Basin for many miles, with Goat Island in the distance. The road which leads by the fortress passes the old garrison cemetery, St. Luke's Church, the court-house and county academy, and many quaint and antiquated mansions. A ferry crosses to Granville, a little shipbuilding village, Avith 700 inhabitants. A road leads hence across the North Mt. in 4-5 M., to IlUlsburn and Leitchfield. " Annapolis Royal is a picturesque little town, almost surrounded by water, at the head of the Annapolis Basin On both sides of the Basin rise mountains whose background of vegetation lends a peculiar charm to the landscape. Fruit of almost every kind common to this continent may be found here in its season. East- ward you may proceed by railway to the scene of Longfellow's great poem of ' Evange- line ' through a perpetual scene of orchards, dike lands, and villages, skirted on both sides by dreamy mountains, till you reach the grand expanse of the Basin of Minas, with Blomiiion, the abode of sea-nymphs, holding eternal guard in the distance. Annapolis Royal and Granville Ferry offer speciiil sanitary privileges to the weary, the invalid, and the pleasure-seeker ; bathing, trouting, hunting, boat- ing, picnicking, are all enjoyed in turn From the mountain slopes, whither parties go for a day's enjoyment, the prospect is unrivalled, and the air invigorating. The thermometer rarely rises above 90 degrees in the day, while the night air is cool enough for blankets and light overcoats. A moonlight excursion on the Basin is something to remember for a lifetime." The Basin of Annapolis was first entered in 1604 by De Monts's fleet, exploring the shores of Acadie ; and the beauty of the scene so impressed the Baron de Pou- trincourt that he secured a grant here, and named it Port Royal. After the failui-e of the colony at St. Croix Island, the people moved to this point, bringing all their stores and supplies, and settled on the N. side of the river. In .July, 1606, Lescarbot and another company of Frenchnien joined the new settlement, and conducted improvements of the land, while Poutrincourt and Champlain explored the Massachusetts coast 400 Indians had been gathered by the S!U2;au)oro Member- tou in a stockaded village near the fort, and all went on wefl and favorably until De Monts's grant was annulled by the King of France, and then the colony was aban- doned. AXXAPOLIS ROYAL. Jtnutc AS'. 87 Four years later the brave Baron de Poutrincourt left his estates in Champagne, with a liecp cargo of supplies, descended the rivers Aube and Seine, and sailed out from Dii'i)pe (Feb. 26, IGlO) On arriving at Port Royal, everything was found as when left: and the work of proselyting the Indians wjus at once entered cu. Mem- bertou and his tribe were converted, baptized, and feasted, amid salutes from the cannon and the chanting of the Te Deuin ; and numerous other forest-clans soon followed the same course. Poutrincourt was ji Galilean Catholic, and hated the Jesuits, but was forced to take out two of them to his new domain. They as.sumed a high authority there, but were sternly rebuked by the Baron, who said, " It is my part to rule you on earth, ami yours only to guide me to heaven." They threatened to lay Port Royal under interdict ; and Poutriucourt's son and succes.^or so greatly resented this that they left the colony on a mission ship sent out by the Marchioness de Guercheville, and founded St. Sauveur, on the island of Mount Desert. In 1613, after the Vir- ginians under Capt. Argall had destroyed St. Sauveur, the vengeful Jesuits piloted their fleet to Port Royal, which was completely demolished. Poutrincourt came out in lol4 only to find his colony in ruin.«,and the remnantof the people wandering in the forest ; and was so disheartened that he returned to France, where he was killed, the next year, in the battle of MLTy-sur-Seine. It is a memorable fact that these attacks of the Virginians on Mount Desert and Port Royal were the very commencement of the wars between Great Britain and France in North America, " which scarcely ever entirely' cea^sed until, at the co.-t of infinite blood and treasure, France was stripped of all her possessions in America by the peace of 1763.*' Between 1620 and 1630 an ephemeral Scottish colony was located at Port Royal, and was succeeded by the French. In 1628 the place was captured by Sir David Kirk, with an English fleet, and was left in ruins. In 1634 it was granted to Claude de Razilly, " Seigneur de Raziily, des Eau.\ Mesles et Cuon, en Anjou," who after- wards became commandant of Oleron and vice-admiral of France. He was a bold naval officer, related to Cardinal Richelieu ; and his brother Isaac commanded at I.ahave (see Route 25). His lieutenants were D'Aulnay Churnisa}' and Charles de la Tour, and he transferred all his Acadian estates to the former, in 1642, after which begin the feudal wars between those two nobles (see page 19). Several fleets sailed from Port Royal to attack La Tour, at St. John ; and a Boston fleet, in alliance with La Tour, assailed Port Royal. In 1654 the town was under the rule of Emmanuel le Borgne, a merchant of La Rochelle, who had succeeded to D'Auluay's estates, by the aid of Cesar, Duke of Yeudjuie, on account of debts due to him from the Acadian lord. Later in the same year the fortress was taken by a fleet sent out by Oliver Cromwell, but the in- habitants of the valley were not disturbed. By the census of 1071 there were 331 souls at Port Royal, with over 1,000 head of live-stock and 364 acres of cultivated land In 1684 the fishing-fleet of the port was captured by English " corsairs " ; and in 1686 there were 622 souls in the town. In loUO the fort contained 18 cannon and 86 soldiers, and was taken and pillaged by Sir William Phipps, who sailed from Boston with 3 war-vessels and 700 men. A few mouths later it was plundered by corsairs from the West Indies, and in 1691 the Chevalier de Villebon took the fort in the name of France. Baron La Hontan wrote: " Port Royal, the capital', or the only city of Acadia, is in effect no more than a little paltry town that is somewhat enlarged since the war broke out in 1689 by the accession of the inhabitants that lived near Boston, the metropolitan of New England. It subsists upon the traffic of the skins which the savages bring thither to truck for European goods." In the summer of 1707 the fortress was attacked by 2 regiments and a small fleet, from Boston, and siege operations were commenced. An attempt at storming the worlis by night was frustrated by M. de Subercase's vigilance and the brisk fire of the French artillery, and the besiegers were finally .forced to retire with severe loss. A few weeks later a second expedition from Massa- chusetts attacked the works, but after a siege of 15 days their camps were stormed by the Baron de St. Castin and the Chevalier de la Boularderie, and the feebly led Americans were driven on board their ships. Subercase then enlarged the fortress, made arrangements to run off slaves from Boston, and planned to capture Rhode Island, "which is inhabited by rich Quakers, and is the resort of rascals and even pirates." In the autumn of 1710 the frigates Dragon, Chester, Falmouth, Leostaffe, Fevers- ham, Star, and Province, with 20 transports, left Boston and sailed to Port Royal. 88 Route 18. THE ANNAPOLIS VALLEY. There were 2 regiments from Massachusetts, 2 from the rest of New England, and 1 of Royal Marines. After the erection of mortar-batteries, several days were spent in bombarding the fort from the fleet and the siege-lines, but the fire from the ram- parts was kept up steadily until the garrison were on the verge of starvation ; Suber- case then surrendered his forces (2-58 men), who were shipped off to France, and Gen. Nicholson changed the name of Port Royal to Annapolis Royal, in honor of Queen Anne, then sovereign of Great Britain. In 1711, 80 New-Englanders from the garrison were cut to pieces at Bloody Brook, 12 M. up the I'iver, and the fortress was then invested by the Acadians and Miemacs. For nearly 40 years afterwards Annapolis was almost ahvays in a state of siege, being menaced from time to time by the disaffected Acadians and their savage allies. In 1744 the non-combatants were sent to Boston for safetj', and ia July of that year the fort was beleaguered by a force of fiinatic Catholics under the Abb6 Laloutre. Five companies of Massachusetts troops soon joined the garrison, and the besiegers were reinforced by French regulars from Louisbourg. The siege was continued for nearly three months, but Gov. Mascarene showed a bold front, and provisions and men came in from Boston. The town was destroyed by the artillery of the fort and by incendiary sorties, since it served to shelter the hostile riflemen. Soon after Duvivier and Laloutre had retired, two French frigates entered the Basin and captured some ships of Massachusetts, but left four days before Tyng's Boston squadron arrived. A year later, De Ramezay menaced the fort with 700 men, but was easily beaten off by the garrison, aided by the frigates Chester, 50, and Shirley, 20, which were lying in the Basin. After the deportation of the Acadians, Annapolis remained in peace until 1781, when two American war- vessels ascended the Basin by night, surprised and captured the fortress and spiked its guns, and plundered every house in the town, after locking the citizens up in the old block-house. The Annapolis Valley. This pretty district has suffered, like the St. John River, from the absurdly ex- travagant descriptions of its local admirers, and its depreciation by Mr. Warner (see page 84) expresses the natural reaction v.hich must be felt by travellers (unless they are from Newfoundland or Labrador) after cou.paring the actual valley with these high-flown panegyrics. A recent Provincial writer says : •' The route of the Wind- sor & Annapolis Railway lies throvigh a magnificent farming-country whose beauty is so great that we exhaust the tnghsh language of its adjectives, and are compelled to revert to the quaint old French v/hich was spoken by the early settlers of this Garden of Canada, in our efforts to describe it." In point of fact the Annapolis region is far inferior either in beauty or fertility to the valleys of the Nashua, the Schuylkill, the Shenandoah, and scores of other familiar streams which have been described without efFut^ion and without impressing the service of alien languages. The Editor walked through a considerable portion of this valley, in the process of a closer analysis of its features, and found a tranquil and commonplace farming- district, devoid of salient points of interest, and occupied by an insufiicient popula- tion, among whose hamlets he found unvarying and honest hospitality and kind- ness. It is a peaceful rural land, hemmed in between high and monotonous ridges, blooming during its brief summer, and will afford a series of pretty views and pleas- ing suggestions to the traveller whose expectations have not been raised beyond bounds by the exaggerated praises of well-meaning, but injudicious authors. It is claimed that the apples of the Annapolis Valley are the best in America, and 500,000 barrels are exported yearly, — many of which are sold in the cities of Great Britain. The chief productions of the district are hay, cheese, and live-stock, a large proportion of which is exported. The Halifax train runs out from Annapolis over the lowlands, and takes a course to the N. E., near the old highway. Bridgetown ( 6^m?jc/ Central) is the first important station, and is 14 M. from Annapolis, at the head of navigation on the river. It has about 1,500 inliabitants, 4 churches, and a weekly newspaper, and is situated in a di^trict of apple-orchards and rich pastures. Some manufacturing is done on the water-power of WILMOT SPRINGS. Route IS. 89 the Aiinapulis River and its brauches; and the surrounding cuuntry is ■well populated, and is reputed to be one of the healthiest districts in Nova Scotia. To the S. is Bloody Brook, where a detachment of New-England troops was massacred by the French and Indians ; and roads lead up over the South Mt. into the interior, dotted with small hamlets, inhabited by the descendants of old soldiers. Many large lakes and streams tilled with trout, and good huntiug-grounils are in this region. FaracUse (small inn) is a pleasantly situated village of about 400 inhab- itants, with several saw aud grist mills and tanneries. The principal exports are lumber and cheese, though there are also large deposits of mer- chantable granite in the vicinity. A road crosses the North Mt. to Port Williams, 7 M. distant, a tishing-village of about 300 inhabitants, situated on the Bay of Fuudy. The coast is illuminated here, at night, by two white lights. Farther down the shore is the hamlet of St. Croix Cove. Lawrtncetown is a prosperous village of about 600 inhabitants, whence much lumber is exported. In 1754, 20,000 acres in this vicinity were granted to 20 gentlemen, who named their new domain in honor of Gov. Lawrence. 8 M. distant, on the summit of the North Mt., is the hamlet of Havdock, beyond which is the farming settlement of Mt. Hartley, near the Bay of Fuudy. New Albany (small inn) is a forest-village 8-10 M. S. E. of Lawrencetown ; and about 10 M. farther into the great central wilderness is the liarming district of Springfeld, beyond the South Mt. Middleton {American House) is a small village near the Smith Mt. The Nova tScotia Central Railway runs from Middleton to Nictaux Falls, 4 M. ; Cleveland, a locality rich in immense beds of iron ore ; American Mills, a lumber-district; New Albany; Dalhousie; Spriiigtield ; New Germany; Riverside; Bridgewater ; Mahone Bay; and Lunenburg (see page 118). Wilniot Spa Springs, 2 M. from Middleton station (conveyances from all trains), is a favorite provincial summer resort, with Nortli Mt. on one side, and the blue ridge of Soutu Mt. on the other. The Springs rise in an extensive grove of tall pines, aud are nelpful in cases of cancer, d}s^epsia, kidney disease, spinal com- plaint, and general debility. Hall's Hotel was built in 1888, and accommodates 200 guests, at irb-12 a week (reductions for long sojourns), with hot and cold and shower baths of the saline waters. Liiy Lake, not far away, aifords good ti-hing and boat- ing, and is surrounded by deep woois. There are pleasant drives to North Mt., with its marine views ; and to the quaint little sea-ports on the Bay of Fundy. Wilmot station is | M. from Farmington (two inns), a Presbyterian vil- lage. Maryaretsvillt (Harris's Hotel; is 7 M. distant, across the North Mt., on the Bay of Fundy. Fruit and lumber are exported hence to the United States. Kingston station is 1| ^l. from Kinf/ston, 2 M. from Melvern Square, 24 M. from Tremonf, and 4 M. from Prince William Street, rural hamlets in the valley. From Morden Road station a highway runs N. W. 7 M. across the North Mt. to the little port of Morden, or French Cross (Bal- comb's Hotel), on the Bay of Fundy. Station, Aylesford {Aylesford house), a small huuilet from which a stage runs to Bridgewater every 90 Route 18. KENTVILLE. Thursday. The farming towns of Jacksonville and Morristown are 5-7 M. away, on the top of the South Mt. Lr/ Oiarloll!, 20. Ordnance Grounds, 21. AniUery Barracks, 22. Wellingten Barratki, 23. Officers" Quarters, 24. Military Hospital, 25. ^u^m'j Z)«-S Kffrrf, 26. Admiralty House, 27. K jV; _C. ^., 28. .«7/!/a» C/b*, 29. /&/(/« /To/rf, 30. International Hotel, 31. Cbr//«I /ToW, 32. Waverley Hotel, 33. Railway Station, C. 3. AC. 8. B. 3. y?. 3. c. 3. ^. 3. HALIFAX. Route 19. 93 quantities of gypsum are quarried from the veins in the soft marly sand- stone. Nearly 3,000 tons of th's fine fibrous mineral are shipped j^early from Newport to the United States. To the N. are the villages of Brooklyn (5 M.), devoted to manufacturing; Scotch Village (9 M.), a farming settlement; and Burlington, on the Kennetcook River (10 IM.). Chivirie and Walton, 20-22 M. N., on the Basin of Minas, are accessible from Newport by a tri-weekly conveyance. The train passes on to Ellers- house (small inn), a hamlet clustered around a furniture-factory and lumber-mills. 2i M. distant is the settlement at the foot of the Ardoise 3It., which is the highest point of land in the Province, and overlooks Falmouth, Windsor, and the Basin of Minas. The train now crosses the Five-Island Lake, skirts Uniacke Lake, with Mt. Uniacke on the N., and stops at the Mt. Uniacke station (small inn). The Mt. Uniacke estate and mansion were founded more than 50 years ago by Richard John Uniacke, then Attorney-General of Nova Scotia. The house occupies a picturesque position between two rock-bound lakes, and the domain has a hard- working tenantiy. The 3ft. Uniacke Gold-Mines are 3 M. from the sta- tion, and were opened in 1S65. In 1869 the mines yielded ^37,340, or S345 to each workman, being 6 ounces and 4 pennyweights from each ton of ore. For the next 10 ]\I. the line traverses an irredeemable wil- derness, and then reaches Beaver Bank., whence lumber and slate are exported. At Windsor Junction the train runs on to the rails of the Intercolonial Railway ^see page 82), wh ch it follows to Halifax. 19. Halifax. Arrival from the Sea. — Cape Sanibro is usually seen first by the passenger on the transatliiutic steamers, and Halifax Harbor is soon entered between the light- houses on Chebucto Head and Devil Island. These lights are 1% M. apart, Chebucto (on tlie 1.) having a revolving light vi ible for 18 M., and Devil Island a fixed red light on a brown tower. On the W. shore the fishing-hamlets of Portuguese Cove, Bear Cove, and HeiTiug Cove are pasred in succession. 4 M. S. E. of Herring Cove is the dangerous Thruincap Shoal, where H B. M frigate La Tribime, 44, wa.s -wrecked in 1797, and nearly all her people were lost, partly by reason of an absurd stretch of naval punctiho. Between this shoal and McNab's Island on one side, and the mainland on the other, is the long and narrow strait called the Eastern Passage. In 1862 the Confederate cruiser Tallahassee was blockaded in Halifax Harbor by a squadron of United-S-ates frigates. The shallow and tortuous Eastern Passage was not watched, .«ince nothing but small fishing-craft had ever traversed it, and it was considered impassable for a steamer I'ke tlie Ta'lakassi-e. But Capt. Wood took ad- vantage of the high tide, on a dark night, and crept cautiously out behind McNab's Island. By daylight he was far out of sight of the outwitted blockading fleet. 2 M. from Herring Cove the steamer passes Salisbury Head, and runs between the Martello Tower and lighthouse on Maugher Beach (r. side) and the York Redoubt (1,J^ M. apart) Near the Redoubt is a Catholic church, and a little above i.s the hamlet of Falkland, with its Episcopal church, beyond which the N W. Arm opens on the 1. Passing between the batteries on McNab's Island and Fort Ogilvie, on Point Pleasant, the steamship soon runs by Fort Clarence and the fortress on George Island, and reaches her wharf at Halifax, with the town of Dartmouth and the great Insane Asylum on the opposite shore. Arrival by Railway. — The riilwny has been prolonged, bv a system of costly works, to a terminus within the city, -where a large and handsome ter- minal station has been erected, with all modem conveniences. It is not far froDJ the Queen's Dock Yard. 94 Houte 19. HALIFAX. Hotels. — Halifax Hotel (Hesslein's), 107 HoUis St , $2A a day ; Queen Hotel (A. B. Sheraton) ; Lome House, 83, 85, and 87 Morris St., a capital family hotel ; Wavei'ly House (the Misses Romans), Pleasant St., "^2X0 a day ; Carlton House, 51 Argyle St. ; Royal, 121 Argyle St. ; Albion, Sackville St. ; St. Julian (European plan), Hollis St. Kestaurants. — Ices, pastry, and confectionery may be obtained at Mitchell's, 25 George J^t. American beverages are compounded at the Halifax-House bar. lieadinjj-KooMis. — The Young Men's Christian Association, corner of Gran- Tille and Prince Sts. ; the Provincial Library, in the Province (or Parliament) Build- ing (open 1(J to 4); and in the chief hotels. The Halifax Library is at 197 Hollis M. : and the Citizens' Free Library (founded by Chief Justice Sir William Young) is at Argyle Hall. Arsivle St , and is open from 3 to 6 P M. The Merchants' Ex- chang-e and Reading-Room is on Bedford Row. The Church-of-England Institute (Library and Gymnasium) is at 5U Barrington St. Clubs. — The Ha.ilax uiub has an eiegaut house at 155 Hollis St. ; the City Club, Barrington St. ; tne Catholic Young Men's Club, Starr St. (open from 2 to 10 P.M.); the Highland, North British, St. George's, Charitable Iri^h, and Gerniania Societies. The Royiil Nova-Scotia Yacht Club has a station at the foot of Hollis St. Amuseiiieiils. — There is a neat, comfortable, and fairly appointed theatre, called the Academy of Music ; and Orpheus Hall. In winter, tobogganing on Cita- del Hill and Collins' Field, b.\ the Red-Cap and Royal-Blue Clubs, etc. ; skating at the Rink, on Tower St.. and on the N W. Arm and the ponds; curling, by the Curling Club, at their Rink ; and sleigh-riding at Point Pleasant, etc. In summer, good games of cricket and indifferent base-ball playing may be seen on the Garrison Cricket-Ground. But Halifax is chiefly famous for the interest it takes in trials of skill between yachtsmen and oarsmen, and exciting aquatic contests occur fre- quently during the summer. Boats for hire at North Slip and Ferry Slip, and Luke's, Freshwater. The Wanderers' Boat-Club have their boathouse and pier at the foot of Morris St. The station of the Boyal Nova-Scotia Yacht Squadron is at the Royal Engineer Yard, foot of Hollis St. There is capital fishing in the N, W. Arm. Horse-Cars run every 7^ minutes from Richmond, by Campbell Road, Lock- man, Barrington, Pleasant, and Inglis Sts., at the entrance to Point-Pleasant Park, Tower Road, Victoria Road, S. Park St., and Spring-Garden Road to Barrington St., opposite the Academy of Music. Also fiom Bell's Lane on Barrington St. and Spring-Garden Road to South-Park and Inglis Sts. Fare, 5 c. Carriages. — For each person, for ^ M., 15 c ; 1 M., 25 c. ; 2 M., 40 c. ; 3 M., 50 c. If returning in same carriage, half the above rates. For 1-horse carriage, per hour, 75c. ; 2-horse carriage, per hour, ^1 Distances by sea. — Halifax to Portland. 340 M. (26 hrs.) ; Boston, 378 M. (35 hrs.); New York, 542 M (50 hrs.) ; Baltimore. 860 M. (76 hrs.) ; St. John's, N. F., 500 M. (48 hrs.). By rail to St. John, 277 M. ; to Quebec, 678; Montreal, 850; Charlottetown, 97 : Portland. 618; Boston, 726; New York, 939. Distances from the Post-Office to Dockyard, 1 M. ; Wellington Barracks, li ; Richmond, 2; Poors' Asylum, 1 ; Fort Ogilvie, U ; Point Pleasant, 2 ; N. W. Arm Bridge, 2^. KailAvays. — Intercolonial (Routes 16 and 17); Windsor & Annapolis. Steamships. — The Allan Line, fortnightly f r St. John's, N; F., Quecnstown and Liverpool, Norfolk and Baltimore. F'ares : Halifax to ]>iverpoo], S76 and ;? 25 : to Norfolk or Baltimore, $20 and $12. The Furness-Line steamships run between Halifax and 1-ondon, Eng. ; the Ilansa Line, to Hamburg and Antwerp ; the Allan Line, to Glasgow (also); the Red-Cross Line, for New York ($16 or $9), or St. John's, N. F. (#18 or $9). A steamer runs from Halifax every Tuesday to Sheet Harbor, Canso, Arichat, Port Mulgrave, Port Hawkesbury, Georgetown, and Souris. Steamboats leave for Lunenburg, Mondays and Thursdays; for Prospect, Chester, and Mahone Bay, Wednesdays and Fridays: for Bridgewater. every Mondav and Thursday; for St. Peters (Cape Breton), West Bay, Baddeck, Sydney, and for Channel, Codroy, and Bonne Bay (Newfoundland), fortnightly. The Halifax leaves for Boston every Wednesday at 10 .\. m. The Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island steamships leave every week for Boston. Stages leave Ilalitax daily for Chester, Lunenburg. Liverpool, Shelburne. and Yarmouth (see Ronf(» '24 ), licp rting at 6 \. m. Stages leave at 6 a. m., on I\!ond:iy, Wednesday, and Fridav, lor iMus(iiioiloboif Harbor, .leddore. Ship Harbor, Tangier, §heet Harbor, Beaver Harbor, ami Salmon River (see Route 29). HALIFAX. "' Route 19. 95 Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, and the chief naval station of the British Empire in the \\'es[ern Heinij^phere, has 38/00 iniiubilants, \\h\i~ banks, 5 daily papers and 4 weeklies, and 38 churches. It occupies a picturesque position on the E. slope of the peninsula (of 3,000 acres), be- tween the bay, the N. W. Arm, and the Bedford Basin ; and looks out upon a noble harbor, deep, completely sheltered, easily accessible, and large enough " to contain all the navies of Europe." In 1869 the imports amounted to $5 7,202,504, and the exports to $3,169,548; and in 1870 the assessed valuation of the city was $16,753,812. The city has a copious supply of water, which is drawn from the Chain Lakes, about 12 M. dis- tant, and so high above Halifax that it can force jets over the highest houses by its own pressure. There is a fire-alarm telegraph, and an effi- cient fire department, with several steam-engines. The city lies along the shore of the harbor for 2.^ M., and is about | M. Avide. Its plan is regular, and some of the bus'ness streets are well built; but the general character of the houses is that of poor construction and dingy coloi's. It has, however, been much bettered of late years, owing to the improvements after two great fires, and to the wealth which flowed iu during the American civil war, and hardly deserves the severe criticism of a recent traveller: " Probably there is not anywhere a more rusty, for- lorn town, and this in spite of its magnificent situation." Hollis and Granville Streets, in the vicinity of the Parliament Buildings, contain the most attractive shops and the headquarters of the great import- ing houses. Many of the buildings in this section are of solid and elegant construction, though the prevalence of dark colors gives a sombre hue to the street lines. The Parliament Building occupies the square between tlollis, George, Granville, and Prince Streets, and is surrounded with trees. In 1830 this plain structure of gray stone was called the finest building in North America, but American architecture has advanced very far since thai- time. Opposite the Granville-St. entrance is the Library, occupying a veiy cosey little hall, and supplied with British and Canadian works on law, history, and science. In the X. part of the building is the plain and commodious hall of the House of Assembly; and on the S. is the chamber of the Legislative Council, in which are some fine portraits. On the r. and 1. of the vice-regal throne are full-length * portraits of King George III. and Queen Charlotte; on the N. wall are Chief Justice Blowers, King William IV., Judge Haliburton (see page 92), * Sir Thomas Strange (by Benjamin West), and Sir Brenton Haliburton. Opposite the throne are Nova Scotia's military hei-oes, Sir John Inglis (the defender of Lucknow) and Sir W. Fenwick AVilliams of Kars. On the S. Avail are full-length por- traits of King George II. and Queen CaroPne. The Dominion Building, nearly opposite tiie Province (or Pai-liament) Buildmg, on Hollis St., covers an area of 140 by 70 ft. It is of fi-eestone, iu 96 Route 19, HALIFAX. an ornate style of architecture, and cost $120,000. The lower story is occupied by the Post-Ofifice; and the third floor contains the * Provincial Museum, which exhibits preserved birds, animals, reptdes, fossils, min- erals, shells, coins, and specimens of the stones, minerals, coals, and gold ores of Nova Scotia. There are also numerous Indian relics, curiosities from Japan and China, naval models, and old portraits. Opposite the en- trance is a gilt pyramid, which represents the amount of gold produced in the Province between 1862 and 1870, — 5 tons, 8 cwt., valued iit $ 3,373,431. Most of this gold has been coined at the U. S. Mint in Phila- delphia, and is purer and finer than that of California and Montana. On the corner of Granville and Prince Streets, near the Parliament Building, is the new and stately stone building of the Young Men's Cliris- tian Association, with its reading-rooms and other departments. The massive brownstone house of the Halifax Club is to the S., on HoUis St. The * Citadel covers the summit of the hill upon whose slopes the city is built, and is 250 ft. above the level of the sea. The Citadel is a fortress of the first class, according to the standards of the old school; though of late years the government has bestowed much attention on the works at George's Island, which are more important in a naval point of view. The works were commenced by Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent, and the father of Queen Yictoria, who was then Commander of tue Forces on this station. He em- ployed in the service a large number of the Maroons, who had been conquered by the British, and were banished from Jamaica, and subsequently' deported to Sierra Leone. Changes and additions have been niade nearly every year since, uutii the present immense stronghold has been completed. It is separated from the glacis by a deep moat, over which are the guns on the nvimcrous bastions. The massive ma- sonry of the walls seems to defy assault, and the extensive barracks within arc said to be bomb-proof. During the years 1878-74 the artillery has been changed, and the previous mixed armament has been to a great degree replaced by muzzle-load- ing Woolwich guns of heavy calibre, adapted for firing the conical Palliser shot with points of chilled iron. The visitor is allowed to walk around the circuit of the ram- parts, and this elevated station affords a broad view on either side. Perhaps the best prospect is that from the S- E. bastion, overlooking the crowded city on the sloj)es below; the narrow harbor with its shipping; Dartmouth, sweeping up to- ward Bedford Basin; Fort Clarence, below Dartmouth, with its dark casemates; McNab's Island, crowned with batteries and shutting in the Eastern Passage ; the outer harbor, with its fortified points, and the ocean beyond. Near the portal of the citadel is an outer battery of aniiquated guns; and at the S. end of the glacis are the extensive barracks of the Royal Artillery. Other mili- tary quarters are seen on the opposite side of the Citadel. "But if you cast your eyes over yonder magnificent bay, where vessels bearing flags of all nations are at anchor, and then let your vision sweep y^Mst and over the islands to the outlets beyond, where the quiet ocean lies, bordered with fcg-banks that loom ominously at the boundary -line of the horizon, you will see a picture of marvellous beauty ; for the coast scenei-y here transcends our own sea-shores, botli in color and outline. And behind us again stretch large green plains, dotted vifli cottages, and bounded with undulating hills, with now and then glimpses of bine HALIFAX. RnutelO. 97 water; and as we walk down Citadel Ilill, we feel half reconciled to Halifax, its quaint mouldy old siable?, its soldiers and sailors, its fogs, cabs, penny and half- penny tokens, and all its little, odd, outlandish peculiarities"' (CozzuSS.) Lower Water St. borders the harbor-lVont, and gives access to the wharves of the various steamship and packet lines. It runs from the Ordnance Yard, at the foot of Buckingham St., to the Government reser- vation near George Island, and presents a remarkably dingy and dilapi- dated a]ipearance tln-oughout its entire length. Tlie Queen's Dockyard occupies ^ M. of the shore of tlie upper liarbor, and is surrounded on the landward side by a high stone-wall. It contains the usual paraphernalia of a first-class navy-yard, — storehouses, machine- shops, docks, arsenals, a hospital, and a line of officers' quarters. It is much used by the frigates of the British navy, both to repair and to refit, and the visitor maj' generally see liei-e two or three vessels of Her Britan- nic Majesty. The Dockyard was founded in 1758, and received great additions (including the present waif) in 1770. During the two great wars with the United States it was invaluable as a station for the royal navy, whose fleets thence descended upon the American coast. Many trophies of the war of 1812 were kept here (as similar marine mementos of another nation are kept in the Brooklyn and Washington Navy-Yards), including the figure-head of the unfortunate Amei'ican frigate, the Chesapeake, which was captured in 1813, off Boston Harbor, by the British frigate Shannon, and was brought into Halifax with great rejoicing. It is, perhaps, in kindly recognition of the new fraternity of the Anglo-American nations, that the Imperiaf Government has lately caused these invidious embiems of strife to be removed. The Dockyard is not open to the public, but the superintendent will generally admit visitors upon presentation of their cards. In the X. W. part of the city, near the foot of Citadel Hill, is the Military Hospital, before which is the Garrison Chapel, a plain wooden building on whose inner walls are many mural tablets in memory of ofli- cers who have died on this station. Beyond this point, Brunswick St. runs N. W. by the Church of the Redeemer to St. George's Church, a sin- gular wooden building of a circular form. At the corner of Brunswick and Gerrish Sts. is a cemetery, in which stands a quaint little church dating from 1761, having been erected by one of the first companies of German immigrants. On Gottingen St. is the Church of St. Joseph, where the Catholic seamen of the fleet attend mass on Sunday at 9^ a. m. Near this building is the Orphan Asylum of the Sisters of Charity. Farther N. on Gottingen St. is the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, beyond which, on North St., is the Roman Catholic College of St. Mary, at Belle Air. This institution is under the charge of the Christian Brothers, and has the same line of studies as an American high-school. Farther out on Gottingen St. is the Admiralty House, the official residence of the com- mander-in-chief of the North-American and West-Indian Squadrons, be- yond which are the Wellington Barracks, over the Richmond railway- station. From the plateau on which the secluded Admiralty House is 5 'g 98 Route 19. . HALIFAX. located, the visitor ctin look down on the Queen's Dockyard, the fleet, and the inner hai-bor. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Mary is on the Spring Garden Road, near its intersection with Pleasant St. It has recently been much enlarged and improved by the addition of an elegant granite facade and spire, in florid Gothic architecture. The Cathedral fronts on an old and honored cemeterj^, on whose E. side is a finely conceived * monument to Welsford and Parkei-, the Nova-Scotian heroes of the Crimean War. (Major Welsford was killed in the storming of the Redan.) It consists of a small but massive arch of brownstone, standing on a broad granite base, and supporting a statue of the British lion. Opposite the cemetery, on Pleasant St., is the Presbyterian Church of St. Matthew (under the care of the Rev. Mr. Laing). Above the Cathedral, on the Spring Garden Road, is the handsome building of the Court House, well situated amid open grounds, near the jail and the capacious drill-sheds. The Public Gardens are on the Spring-Garden Road, and cover 18 acres, charmingl}^ laid out, with pleasant paths, winding ponds, deep shrubber- ies, and a wealth of rich flowers. A military band plays here Saturday afternoons, and sometimes on summer evenings, when the Gardens are lighted by electricit3^ The Wanderers' Athletic-Club grounds are on the side toward the Citadel; the celebrated Camp-Hill Cemetery on the W.; the great Convent of the Sacred Heart, in pleasant grounds, and the Poor- Ilouse, on the S.; and the splendid new buildings of Dalhousie College. In this region also the new Church-of-England Cathedral (Bishop Frederick Courtney-, late of St. Paul's Church, Boston) is being built. The Government House is a short distance be^-ond St. Matthew's Church, on Pleasant St., and is the official residence of the Lieutenant- Governor of Nova Scotia. It is a plain and massive old stone building, with projecting wings, and is nearly surrounded by trees. Farther S , on Morris St., is the Anglican Cathedral of St. Luke, a plain and homely wooden building. Beyond this point are the pretty wooden churches and villas which extend toward Point Pleasant. At the foot of South St. are the Ordnance Grounds, from whose wharf the lower harbor is overlooked. About 1,800 ft. distant is George's Istaiid, on which is a powerful modern fortress, bearing a heavy armament ft'om which immense chilled- iron or steel-pointed shot could be hurled against a hostile fleet. This position is the key to the harbor, and converges its tire with that of Fort Clareyice, a low but massive casemated work, 1 M.' S. E. on the Dartmouth shore, whose guns could sweep the Eastern Passage and the inner harbor. The passage from the outer har- bor is defended by the York Redoubt, near Sandwich Point, by a new line of bat- teries on the N, W. shore of McNab's Island, and by the forts on Point Pleasant. At the corner of Prince and Barrington Sts. is St. Paul's Epi.Jorthwest Arm. Tlie steamer Micmac makes regular trips during the summer up the N. \V. Arm, and to McNdb's Jsland, which is 3 M. long, and has a sum- mer hotel and some heavy military works, with Meagher's Beach and the ^Military Range. On Lawler's Island is the Quarantine Hospital. The fortress on George's Island is the key of the harbor. Dartmouth {Acadian House) is situated on the harbor, opposite the city of Halifax, to which a steam ferry-boat makes frequent tr.ps. It has sev- eral pretty villas belonging to Halifax merch.ants; and at about ^ M. from the villnge is the spacious and imposing hmh\\n% oi the Mount Hope Asylum for the Insane, a long, castellated granite building which overlooks the harbor. Dartmouth has 6,000 inhabitants and 5 churches, and derives prosperity from the working of several foundries and steam-tanneries. It is also the seat of the Chebucto Marine Railway. This town was founded in 1750, but was soon afterwards destroyed, with some of its people, by the Indans. In 1784 it was reoccupied b}' men of Nantucket who preferred royalism to republicanism. The Montague Gold-Mines are 4 M. from Dartmouth, and have yielded in paying quantities. Cow Bay is a few miles S. E. of Dartmouth, and is much v sited in summer, on account of its fine marine scenery and the facilities for bathing. The Dartmouth Lakes com- mence within 1 M. of the town, and were formerly a favorite resort of sportsmen, but are now nearly fished out. 21. The Basin of Minas. — Halifax to St. John. Halifax to Wind.sor, see Route IS (iti reverse). The stf-umboitToute from 'A'itidsor to St. John i.s here described. Steamboats ply between Kiusi.«p<'rt, ilantsport, and I'ansboro". As the steamer moves out from her wharf at Windsor, a pleasant view ii^ afforded of the old college town astern, with the farming village of Fal- mouth on the 1., and shipbuilding Newport on the r., beyond the mouth of the St. Croix River. The shores are high and ridgy, and the mouth of t'.ie Kennetcook River is passed (on the r.) about 5 M. below Windsor. 2-3 M. below is Hantsport (1. bank), a thriving marine village opposite the mouth of the Cockmigon River. On Horton Bluff (1. bank) is a light- house which sustains a powerful fixed white light, visible for 20 M., and beyond this point the steamer enters the * Basin of Minas. On the 1. are the low ridges of Long Island and Boot Island, rising on the margin of a wide and verdant meadow. The meadow is Grand Pre, the land of Evangeline (see Route 22). Mile after mile the fertile plains of Comwallis 102 Route 21. CAPE BLOMIDON. open on the 1., bounded by the Horton hills and the dark line of the North Mt. In advance is the bold and clear-cut outline of Cape Blomidon, brooding over the water, and on the r. are the low but well-defined bluffs of Chivirie, rich in gypsum and limestone. It is about 22 M. from the mouth of the Avon to Parrsboro', and the course of the steamer continu- all}' approaches Blomidon. Cape Blomidon is a vast precipice of red sandstone of the Triassic era, with strong marks of volcanic action. " The dark basaltic wall, covered with thick woods, the terrace of amygdaloid, with a luxuriant growth of light-green shrubs and young trees that rapidly spring up on its rich and moist surface, the precipice of bright red sandstone, always clean and fresh, and contrasting strongly with the trap above, .... constitute a conibination of forms and colors equally striking, if eeen in the distance from the hills of Horton or Parrsboro', or more nearly from the sea or the stony beach at its base. Bloniidon is a scene never to be forgotten by a traveller who has wandered around its shores or clambered on its giddy preci- pices." The cape is about 570 ft. high, and presents an interesting sight when its dark-red summit is peering above the white sea-fogs. Sir William Lyell, the tmi- nent British geologist, made a careful study of the phenomena of this vicinity. The Indian legend says that Blomidon was made by the divine Glooscap, who broke the great beaver-dam off this shore and swung its end around into its present position. Afterwards he crossed to the new-made cape and strewed its slopes with the gems that are found there to-day, carrying thence a set of rare orname7its for his ancient and mysterious female companion. The beneficent chief broke away the beaver-dam because it was flooding all the Cornwallis Valley, and in his conflict with the Great Beaver he threw at him huge masses of rock and earth, which are the present Five Islands. W. of Vtkogunrheech (Blomidon) the end of the dam swept around and became Pleegun (Cape Split). As Blomidon is left on the port beam, the steamer hurries across the rapid currents of the outlet of the Basin. In front is seen the white vil- lage of Parrsboro', backed by the dark undulations of the Cobequid Mts. Just before reaching Parrsboro' the vessel approaches and passes Par- iridf/e Island (on the 1.), a singular insulated hih 250 ft. high, and con- nected With the mainland at low tide by a narrow beach. Partridge Island was the Pulower.h Munegoo of the Micmacs, and was a favorite location for legends of Glooscap. On his last great journey from Newfoundland by Pictou through Acadia and into the unknown West, he built a grand road from Fort Cumberland to this shore for the use of his weary companions. This miracu- lously formed ridge is now occupied by the post-road to the N. W., aud is called by the Indians Oivuwkun {the causeway). At Partridge Island Glooscap had his cel- ebrated revel with the supernatural Kit-poos-e-ag-unow, the deliverer of all op- pressed, who was taken out alive from his mother (slain by a giant), was thrown into a well, and, being miraculously preserved there, came forth in due time to fulfil his high duty to men. These marvellous friends went out on the Basin in a stone canoe to fish by torchlight, and, after cruising over the dark waters for some time, speared a monstrous whale. They tossed him into the canoe " as though he were a trout," and made for the shore, where, in their bi-otherly feast, the whale was en- tirely devoured. Parrshoro' (two inns) is prettily situnted at the mouth of a small river, and under the shelter of Partridge Island. It has al)Out 2,000 inhabitants, with five churches, and is engaged in the lumber-trade. The beauty of the situat on and the views, together with the sporting facilities in the back-country, have made Parrsboro" a pleasure resort of considerable re- pute, and the neat hotel called the Summer House is well patronized. This is one of the best points from which to enter the fine hunting and fishing PAllRSBORO'. Route "^l. 103 districts of Cumberlant.1 County, and guides and outfits may be secured. There are G boarding-houses here, and '2 at Partridge Island. Tiie railroad from Parrsboro' to >Spring-llill Junction (32 M.), on the Intercolonial line, runs through the best scenery c£ the Cobequid Mts. "Parrsboro' enjoys more than its share of broad, gi-avelly beach, overhunp: with clifted and woody bkiffs. One fresh from the dead walls of a great city would be de- lighted with the sylvan shores of Parrsboro". The beach, with alfits bi-eadtb, a miracle of pebbly beauty, slants steeply to the surf, which is now rolling up in curl- ing clouds of green and white. Here we turn westward into the great bay itself, going with a tide that rushes like a mighty river toward a cataract, whirling, boil- ing, bre:ikiug in half-moons of crispy foam."' (L. L. Noblk.) '* Pleasant Parrsboro", with its green iiills, neat cottages, and sloping shores laved by the sea when the tide is full, but wearing quite a diflerent aspect when the tide goes out ; for then it is left perched thirty feet high upon a red clay bluff, and the fishing-boats which were afloat before are careened upon their beam ends, high and dry out of water. The long massive pier at which the steamboat lately landed, lifts up its naked bulk of tree-nailed logs, reeking with green ooze and sea-weed ; and a high conical island which constitutes the chief feature of the landscape is trans- formed into a bold promontory, connected with the mainland by a huge ridge of brick-red clay." (Hallock.) Gentlemen who are interested in geological studies will have a rare chance to make collections about Parrsboro' and the shores of Minas. The most favorable time is when the bluffs have been cracked and scaled by recent frosts ; or just after the close of the winter, when much fresh debris is found at the foot of the cliffs. Among the minerals on Parti-idge Island are: analcime, apophyllite, amethyst, agate, apatite, calcite (abundant, in yellow crystals), chabazite, chalcedony, cat's-eye, gypsum, hematite, heulandite, magnetite, stilbite (very abundant), jasper, cacholong, opal, semi-opal, and gold-bearing quartz. About Cape Blomidou are found analcime, agate, amethyst, apopliyllite. calcite, chalcedony, chabazite-gmelinite, furuelite, hematite, magnetite, heulandite, laumouite, fibrous gypsum, malachite, mesolite, native copper, natrolite, stilbite, psilomelane, and quartJz. Obsidian, malachite, gold, and copper are found at Cape d"Or ; jasper and flue quartz crystals, on Spencer's Island ; augite, amianthus, pyrites, and wad, at Parrsboro' ; and both at Five Islands and Scotsman"s Bay there are beautiful specimens of moss agate. At Coruwallis is found the rare mineral called AVichtisite (resembling obsidian, in gray and deep blue colors), which is only known in one other place on earth, at Wichtis, in Fin- land. The purple and violet quartz, or amethyst, of the Minas shores, is of great beauty and value. A Blomidon amethyst is in the crown of France, and it is now 270 years since the ^ieur de Monts carried several large amethysts from Partridge Island to Henri IV. of France. These gems are generally found in geodes, or after fresh falls of trap-rock. Advocate Harbor and Cape d' Or. A daily stage runs W. from Parrsboro' through grand coast scenery, for 28 M., passing the hamlets of Fox Harbor and Port Greville, and stop- ping at Advocate Harbor. This is a sequestered marine hamlet, devoted to shipbuilding and the deep-sea fisheries, and has about 600 inhabitants. It is about 60 M. from Amherst, by a road leading across the Cobequid I\Its. and through Apple River (see page 80). Some of the finest marine scenery in the Provinces is in this vicinity. 3-4 M. S. is the immense rocky peninsula of * Cape d'Or, almost cut off from the mainland by a deep ravine, in whose bottom the salt tides fl iw. Cape d'Or is 500 ft. h gh, and has recently become noted for its rich copper deposits. Oti" this point there is a heavy rip on the flood-tide, which flows with a velocity of 6 knots an hour, and rises 33-39 ft. 8 M. W. of Advocate Harbor, and visible across 104 Route %1. BASIN OF MINAS. the open bay, is * Cape Chignecto, a wonderful headland of rock, 730 - 800 ft. high, running down sheer into the deep waters. This mountain-prom- ontory marks the division of the currents of the Minas and Chignecto Channels. Cape d'Or is sometimes called Cap Bore, on the ancient maps, and received its name on account of the copper ore which was found here by the early French ex- plorers, and was supposed to be gold. The Acadians afterwards opened mines here, and the name, Les Mines, originally applied to a part of this shore, was given to the noble salt-water lake to the E. Mhias is either an English modification or the Spanish equivalent thereof Cape d'Or was granted to the Duke of Chandos many years ago, but he did not continue the mining operations. After leaving Parrsboro' the steamer runs W. through the passage be- tween Cape Blomidon and Cape Sharp, which is 3^ M. wide, and is swept by the tide at the rate of 6 - 8 knots an hour. On the r. the ravines of Diligent River and Fox River break the iron-bound coasts of Cumberland County; and on the 1. is a remarkable promontory, 7 M. long and 1 M. wide, with an altitude of 400 feet, running W. from Blomidon between the channel and the semicircular bight of Scotsman's Bay. Cape Split is the end of this sea-dividing mountain, beyond which the S shores fall suddenly away, and the steamer enters the Minas Channel. 12 M. beyond Cape Split, Spencer's Island and Cape Spencer are passed on the N., beyond which ai-e the massive cliffs of Cape d'Or. On the 1. are the unvarying ridges of the North Mt., with obscure fishing-hamlets along the shore. To the N. the frowning mass of Ca/je Chignecto is seen ; and the course passes within sight of the lofty and lonely rock of Jsle Haute, which is 7 M. from the nearest shore. It is 1^ M. long and 350 ft. high, and is exactly intersected by the parallel of 65' W. from Greenwich. The steamer now passes down over the open waters of the Bay of Fundy. St John is about 62 nautical miles from Isle Haute, in a straight line, and is a little N. of W. from that point, but the exigencies of navigation re- quire a course considerably longer and more southerly. This portion of the route is usually traversed at night, and soon after passing the powerful first-class red revolving-light on Cope )S/>e?ice?'( New Brunswick), the steamer runs in by the Partridge-Island light, and enters the harbor of St. John about the break of da^'. St. John, see page 15. The Basin of Minas. The steamer leaves Parrsboro' daily, for the villages on the N. and E. shores of the Basin of Minas. As the times of lier departure are very irregular, owing to the necessity of following the tide, and her kuuiings var\ according to cir- cumstances, the following account relates to the line of the coast rather tlian to her route. She is announced to call at Parrsboro', Londonderry, Maitland, Kingsport, Summerviile, and Windsor. Soon after leaving Parrsboro', Frazer's Bead is passed on the 1., with its cliffs elevated nearly 400 feet above the water. About 15 M E. of BASIN OF MINAS. Route 21. 105 Parrsboro' are the remarkable insulated peaks of the *Five Islands, the chief of wh'ch is 350 ft. high, rising from the waters of the Basin. On the adjacent shore is the village of Tive Islands, occupying a very picturesque position, and containing 600 inhabitants. In this vicinity are found iron, copper, and plumbago, and white-lead is extracted in considerable quan- tities from minerals mined among the hills. Marble was formerly produced here, but the quarries are now abandoned. The mass ve ridge variously known as Mt. Gerrish, St. Peter's IMt., and Red Head, looms over the vil- lage to a height of 500 ft., having a singularly bold and alpine character for so small an elevation. On its lower slopes are found pockets containing fine barytes, of which large quantities are sent to the United States. A mass of over 150 pounds' weight was sent from this place to the Paris Ex- position of 1867. A few miles W. of the village are the falls on the North River, which are 90 ft. high; and to the N. is the Avild and picturesque scenery of the Cobequid Mts. Stages run from Londonderry Station to Five Islands, which is indeed one of the loveliest spots in Canada. The sea-beach is nragnificent, and the facilities for bathing and boating ex- cellent. Broderick's Hotel commands the finest part of the shore. " Before them lay the outlines of Five Islands, rising beautifully out of the water between them and the mainland The two more distant were rounded and •well wooded; the third, which was midway among the group, had lofty, precipitous sides, and the summit was dome-shaped; the fourth was like a tab fe, rising with perpendicular sides to the height of 200 ft., with a flat, level surface above, which was all overgrown with forest trees. The last, and nearest of the group, was by far the most singular. It was a bare rock which rose irregularly from the sea, termi- nating at one end in a peak which rose about 200 ft. in the air It resembled, more than anything else, a vast cathedral rising out of the sea, the chief mass of the rock corresponding with the main part of the cathedral, while the tower and spire ■were there in all their majesty. For this cause the rock has received the name of Pinnacle I.'^land At its base they saw the white foam of breaking surf; while far on high around its lofty, tempest-beaten summit, they saw myriads of sea-gulls. Gathering in great white clouds about this place, they si^orted and chafed one an- other ; they screamed and uttered their shrill yells, which sounded afar over the sea." (DeMille.) 10 M. beyond these islands the steamer passes the lofty and far-project- ing peninsula of Economy l Point, and enters the Cobequid Bay (which ascends to Truro, a distance of 36 M.). After touching at Londonderry, on the N. shore, the steamer crosses the bay to Maitland (two inns), a busy and prosperous shipbuilding village at the mouth of the Shubenacadie River (see page 82). The S. shore of the Basin of Minas is lined with bluffs 100-180 ft. high, but is far less imposing than the N. shore. Noel is about 15 M. W. of ^Maitland, and is situated on a pretty little bay between Noel Head and Burnt-Coat Head. It has 300 inhabitants, and produces the mineral called terra alba, used in bleaching cottons. It is not found elsewhere in Amer- ica. After leaving Noel Bay and passing the lighthouse on Burnt-Coat 1 Economy is derived from the Indian name Kenomee, which was applied to the same place, and means " Sandy Point." 106 Route 21. BASIN OF MINAS. Head, the trend of the coast is followed to the S. W. for about 20 M. to Walton, a village of 600 inhabitants, at the mouth of the La Tete River. Many thousand tons of gypsum and plaster of Paris (calcined gypsum) are annually shipped from this port to the United States. Immense quantities are exported also from the coasts of Chivirie, which extend from Walton S. W. to the mouth of the Avon River. The whole back country is com- posed of limestone soil and gypsum-beds, whose mining and shipment form an industry of increasing importance. Beyond the Chivirie coast the steamer ascends the Avon River to Windsor. The Basin of Minas was the favorite home of Glooscap, the Hiawatha of the Mic- macs, whose traditions describe him as an envoy from the Great Spirit, who had the form and habitsof humanity, but was exalted above all peril and sickness and death. He dwelt apart and above, in a great wigwam, and was attended by an old woman and a beautiful youth, and " was never very far from any one of them," who re- ceived his counsels His power was unbounded and supernatural, and was wielded against the enchantments of the magicians, while his wisdom taught the Indians how to hunt and fish, to heal diseases, and to build wigwams and canoes. He named the constellations in the heavens, and many of the chief points on the Acadian shores. The Basin of Minas was hi.s beaver-pond ; Cape Split was the bulwark of the dam ; and Spencer's Island is his overturned kettle. He controlled the ele- ments, and by his magic wand led the caribou and the bear to his throne. The allied powers of evil advanced with immense hosts to overthrow his great wigwam and break his power ; but he extinguished their camp-fires by night and summoned the spirits of the frost by whose endeavors the land was visited by an intense cold, and the hostile armies were frozen in the forest. On the approach of the English he turned his huge hunting-dogs into stone and then passed away ; but will return again, right Spencer's Island, call the dogs to life, and once more dispense his royal hospitality on the Minas shores. " Now the ways of beasts and men waxed evil, and they greatly vexed Glooscap, and at length he could no longer endure them ; and he made a rich feast by the shore of the great lake (Minas). All the beasts came to it : and when the feast was over, he got into a big canoe, he and his uncle, the Great Turtle, and they went away over the big lake, and the beasts looked after them till they saw them no more. And after they ceased to see them, they still heard their voices as they sang, but the sounds grew fainter and fainter in the distance, and at last they wholly died away ; and then deep silence fell on them all, and a great marvel came to pass, and the beasts who had till now spoken but one language no longer were able to understand each other, and they all fled away, each his own way, and never agaiu have they met together in council. Until the day when Glooscap shall return to restore the Golden Age, and make men and animals dwell once more together in amity and peace, all Nature mourns. The tradition states that on his departure from Acadia the great snowy owl retired to the deep forests to return no more until he could come to welcome Glooscap ; and in those sylvan depths the owls, even yet, repeat to the night, ' Koo koo skoos ! Koo koo skoos ! ' which is to say, in the In- dian tongue, ' 0, I am sorry ! 0,1 am sorry ! ' And the loons, who had been the huntsmen of Glooscap, go restlessly up and down through the world, seeking vainly for their master, whom they cannot find, and wailing sadly because they find him not" THE BASIN OF MINAS THE OLD ACADIAN LAND. THE LAND OF EVANGELINE. Route 22. 107 22. The Land of Evangeline. This beautiful aud dooply interosting- district is visited with the greatest ease from the academic town of Wolfville {Central House ; Acadia ; Ameri- can), which is 127 M. from St. John and 03 M. from Halifax (by Route 18), on an arm of the Basin of Minas, and engaged in shipbuilding and farm- ing. It has 1500 inhabitants, 5 churches, Acadia Seminary (7 teachers and 70 pupils), and the Horton Academy (4 teachers, 60 students). Acadia Colhrje is a Baptist institution, with 6 professors, 60 students, and 300 alnnnii. The college buildings occupy a line situation on a hill which overlooks " those meadows on the Basin of Minas which Mr. Long- fellow has made more sadly poetical than any other spot on the Western Continent." The * view from the belfry of the college is the most beau- tiful in this vicinity, or even, perhaps, in the Maritime Provinces. Far across the Cornwallis Valley to the N. is the North Mt., which terminates, 15 M. away (21 M. by ro^d), in the majestic bluff of Cape Blomidon, dropping into the Basin of Minas. To the N. E. is the "great meadow" which gave name and site to the village of Grand Pre. Steamboats run on the Basin of Minas in summer, connecting Wolfville with the other ports, and giving a very delightful journey (see page 101). A good road leads E. (in 3 M. ) from Wolfville to Lower Horton, a scat- tered hamlet among the hills. By passing down from this point to the meadows just beyond the railway-station of Grand Pre, the traveller reaches the site of the ancient village. Standing on the platform of the station, he sees a large tree at the comer of the field on the left front. Near that point are the faint remains of the foundations of the Acadian church. The tradition of the country-side claims that the aged willow- tree near by grows on the site of the shop of Basil the Blacksmith, and that cinders have been dug up at its foot. The destruction effected by the British troops was complete, and there are now no relics of the an- cient settlement, except the gnarled and knotty trees of the orchards, the lines of willows along the old roads, and the sunken hollows which indi- cate the sites of former cellars. Near the shore is shown the place where the exiles were put on shipboard. A road leads across the rich diked marsh in 2-3 M. to Long Island, a slight elevation fronting on the Basin of Minas, and on which dwells a farming population of about 120 persons. To the N. E. is the mouth of the Gaspereaux River, and on the W. the Cornwallis River is discharged. The eai-ly Acadians reclaimed these rich meadows from the sweep of the tides by building light dikes to turn the water. There were 2,100 acres of this gained land in their Grand Pr^, but the successive advancing of other lines of aggression has driven back the sea from a much larger area, all of which is very productive and val- uable. \n 1810 the broad meadow between Grand Pr6 and Wolfville was enclosed bv new dikes and added to the reclaimed domain. 108 Route 22. GRAND PRE. Noble's Massachusetts regiment was cantoned at Grand Pre in the winter of 1746-7. During a heavy snow-storm, before dawn on Feb. 11, the town was at- tacked by 346 irench troops, arranged in 10 divisions, and commanded by Coulon de Villiers. The sentinels were vigilant, and gave tue alarm as soon as the hostile columns were jeen over the lotty snow-dritts ; but the assailants dashed in fearlessly and soon can-ied the strongest of the barracks. Col. Noble was slain while fighting in his shirt. 134 Americans were killed and wounded and 69 were made prisoners ; 21 of the attacking party were killed and wounded. In the morning 350 of the Massachusetts men were concentrated in a stone bviilding, and fought with much bravery, the combat being waged from house to houfcc through the streets. By noon their ammunition was expended, and they surrendered to the Frccch, beii.g paroled and allowed to march out with the honors of war. A convivial dincer wa;-- then enjoyed by the officers of the whilom hostile forces, and the Americans were sent to Annapolis under an Acadian guard, while the French soon afterward retired to Beaubassin, bearing their captured artillery and four stands of colors which had been taken in the battle. The shores of the Basin of Minas were settled in the early part of the 17th century by immigrants fi'om La Rochelle, Stintonge, and Poitou. They soon erected dikes by which the tide was kept off from the meadows, and from these rich reclaimed lands they gathered great crops. Several cargoes cf grain were exported to Boston every year, and the settlement soon became large and prosperous. The Indians regarded these new neighbors with affection, and lived on terms of perfect peace with them. During the wars between France and Great Britain, the Acadians were strongly patriotic, and took up arms in the cause of their native land. Intensely devoted to the Roman Catholic Church, and considering these wars as in the nature of ci-usades, they fought valiantly and well. But when Nova Scotia was finally ceded to Great Britain (in 1713), their position became very awkward and painful. Many of them refused to take the oath of alle- giance, and for others a modified forn-ula wr.s frrmed. The emissaries of the Frerch power at Louisbourg and Quebec circulated an-ocg them and maintained their loy- alty to France at a fever heat, while their priests acted continually on the same policy, and kept up the hostility to the conqueiors. The British Provincial govern- ment was located at Annapolis, and though its laws were miid and clement, it could not command respect on account of its physical weakness. Under these chcum- stances, hucdrcds of the Acadians joined the French arnJes during every war be- tween the two powers, and proved dangerous fccmen, on account of their knowledge of the land. British settlers were unwilling to locate among these people on accoi nt of their hostility, and the fairest lands of the Province were thus held by an alien and hostile population. The great conflict between England and France in the New World was still in full course, and the latter power was in possession of the Canadi.s. The majority of the Acadians were doubtless peaceful and honest, occupied only with their local affairs; but som.e of them were hostile and troublesome, and the anom.alous position of these alien subjects was a source of incessant danger to the English power. It was therefore determined in the council at Halifax, in 1765, that they must either take an unconditional oath of allegiance to Great Britain or leave the country. Deputations were called in from all the French settlen.ents, and the alternatives were clearly set forth before them. Almost unaniniOusly they refused to take the oath, preferring {the;y said) exile and confiscation to such an act, and seeming to regard their neutrality of the past 45 years as having become a vested right. It seems as if diplomacy and argun.ent were tried to their utmost limit upon these unyielding recusants, and it then becam.e necessary for the honor and safety of the Province, to retort to sterner n.easures. It was resolved that the whole Aca- dian people should be banished to the southern American colonics, and that thek estates and buildings, cattle and vessels, should be declared forfeited to the Crown. The Acadians were taken by surprise. A British detachment and licet dcttroyed all the villages, farms, and churches, on the Chignee to Basin and the Pctiiccdiac lliver, sweeping up n.any prisoners and meeting with some sharp fighting. Monc- ton destroyed fehediac, Remsheg, and other towns on the Gulf coast ; IMurray gath- ered up the people about Windsor and to the E. ; and Ilar.dfickl put the French Annapolitans on shipboard, except a few who escaped into the woods. AVintlow collected 1,923 persons at Grand Pr6 and embarked them, and burred 255 houses, 276 barns, and 11 m.ills. (Winslow was a Massachusetts officer, and 20 >eair later his own family was driven into exile for hostility to America.) The people of Grand Pr6 were sent to North Carolina, Virginia, and Maryland. GRAND PRE. Itoute S3. lOlj " AYhile we see plainly that EBg;l;ind could never really control this Province while they remained in it, all our feelings of humanity are affected by tlie removal itself, and still more by the severity of the attendant circumstaiiccs They were the victims of great error on their own part, and of delusive views that false friends had instilled into their minds, and the impulses of national and)ition and jealousy precipitated their fate. It is, however, some consolation to know that very many of the exiles returned within a few years to their native land, and though not restored to their native farms, they became an integral and respected portion of our jiopula- tion, displaying, under all changes, those simple virtues that they had inherited,— the same modest, humble, and peaceable disposition, that had been their early attri- butes."' (Murdoch.) (See also CL.iRE, Chezzetcook, and TiiAC.vmE.) In 1760 a large colony of families from Connecticut, in a fleet of 22 vessels con- voyed by a man-of-war, arrived at Grand Pr»3 and occupied the deserted farms. " they found 60 o.x-carts and as many yokes, which the unfortunate French had u.sed ia conveying their baggage to the vessels that carried them away from the country ; and at the skirts of the forest heaps of the bones of sheep and horned cat- tle, that, deserted by their owners, had peri.shed in winter from the lack of food. They also met with a few straggling fomilies of Acadians who had escaped from the scrutinizing search of the soldiers at the removal of their countrymen, and who, afraid of sharing the same fate, had not ventured to till the land, or to appear in the open country. They had eaten no bread for five years, and had subsisted on vegetables, fish, and the more hardy part of the cattle that had survived the sever- ity of the first winter of their abandonment." (Haliburton ) " This is the forest primeval. The murmuring pines and the hemlocks, Bearded v.ith moss, and in garments green, indistinct in the twilight, Stand like Druids of e'd, with voices sad and prophetic, Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest on their bosoms. Loud from its rocky caverns, the deep-voiced neighboring ocean Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest. " This is the forest primeval ; but where are the hearts that beneath it Leaped hke the roe, when he hears in the woodland the voice of the huntsman? Where is the thatch-roofed village, the home of Acadian farmers, — Men whose lives gli led on like rivers that water the woodlands. Darkened by shadosvs of earth, but reflecting an image of heaven ? Waste are those pleasant ftirms, and the farmers forever departed 1 Scattered like dust and leaves, when the mighty blasts of October Seize them, and whirl them aloft, and sprinkle them far o'er the ocean. Naught but tradition remains of the beautiful village of Grand Pr6. " In the Acadian land, on the shores of the Basin of Minas, Distant, secluded, still, the little village of Grand Pre Lay in the fruitful valley. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward, Giving the village its name, and pasture to flocks without number- Dikes, that the hands of the farmers had raised with labor incessant. Shut out the turbulent tides; but at cerfciin seasons the flood-gates Opened, and welcomed the sea to wander at will o'er the meadows. West and south there were fields of flax, and orchards and corn-fields Spreading afar and unfenced o"er the plain ; and away to the northward Blomidon rose, and the forests old, and aloft on the mountains Sea-fogs pitched their tents, and nusts from the mighty Atlantic Looked on the happy valley, but ne'er from their station descended. There, in the midst of its farms, reposed the Acadian village. Strongly built were the houses, with frames of oak and of chestnut, Such as the peasants of Normandy built in the reign of the Henries. Thatched were the roofs, with do.'mer-windows ; and gables projecting Over the ba.sement below protected and shaded the doorway. There in the tranquil evenings of summer, when brightly the sunset Lighted the village street, and gilded the vanes on the chimneys, Matrons and maidens sat in snow-white caps and in kirtles Scarlet and blue and green, with distaffs spinning the golden Flax for the gossiping looms, whose noisy shuttles within doors Mingled their sound with the whir of the wheels and the songs of the maidens 110 Routed. GHAND PRE. Solemnly down the street came the parish priest, aEd the children Paused in their play to kiss the hand he extended to bless them. Reverend walked he among them ; and up rose matrons and maidens, Hailing his slow approach with words of affectionate welcome. Then came the laborers home from the field, and serenely the sun sank Down to his rest, and twilight preA'ailed. Anon from the belfry Softly the Angelus sounded, and over the roofs of the village Columns of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense ascending, Rose from a hundred hearths, the homes of peace and contentment. Thus dwelt together in love these simple Acadian farmers, — Dwelt in the love of God and of man. Alike were they free from Fear, that reigns with the tyrant, and envy, the vice of republics. Neither locks had they to their doors, nor bars to their windows ; But their dwellings were open as daj^ and the hearts of the owners ; There the richest was poor, and the poorest lived in abundance." The poet then describes " the gentle Evangeline, the pride of the vil- lage." " Fair was she to behold, that maiden of seventeen summers, Black were her eyes as the berry that grows on the thom by the wayside, Black, yet how softly they gleamed beneath the brown shade of her tresses ! Sweet was her breath as the breath of kiue that feed in the meadows. When in the harvest heat she bore to the reapers at noontide Flagons of home-brewed ale, ah I fair in sooth was the maiden. Fairer was she when, on Sunday morn, while the bell from its turret Sprinkled with holy sounds the air, as the priest with his hyssop Sprinkles the congregation, and scatters blessings upon them. Down the long street she passed, with her chaplet of beads and her missal, Wearing her Norman cap, and her kirtle of blue, and the ear-rings, — Brought in the olden time from France, and since, as an heirloom, Handed down from mother to child, through long generations. But a celestial brightness — a more ethereal beauty — Shone on her face and encircled her form, when, after confession, Homeward serenely she walked, with God's benediction upon her. When she had passed, it seemed like the ceasing of exquisite music." After a heautifii] description of the peaceful social life of the Acadians, and the betrothal of Evangeline, the poet tells of the arrival of the English fleet, the convocation of the people, the royal mandate, the destruction of Grand Pre, and the weary exile of the villagers. " So passed the morning away. And lo ! with a summons sonorous Sounded the bell from its tower, and over the meadow a drum beat. Thronged erelong was the church with men. Without, in the churchyard. Waited the women. They stood by the graves, and hung on the headstones Garlands of autumn-leaves and evergreens fresh from the forest. Then came the guard from the ships, and marching proudly among them Entered the sacred portal. 'With loud and dissonaut clangor ^ Echoed the sound of their brazen drums from ceiling and casement, — Echoed a moment only, and slowly the ponderous portal Closed, and in silence the crowd awaited the will of the soldiers. Then uprose their commander, and spake from the steps of the altar, Holding aloft in his hands, with its seals, the royal commission. ' Ye are convened this day,' he said, ' by his Majesty's orders. Clement and kind has he been ; but how have you auswei'ed his kindness, Let your own hearts reply I To my natural make and my temper Painful the task is I do, which to you I know must be grievous. Yet must I bow and oliey, and deliver the will of our monarch ; Namely, that all your lands, and dwellings, and cattle of all kinds Forfeited be to the crown ; and that you yourselves from this province Be transported to other lands. God grant you may dwell there Ever as faithful subjects, a happy and peaceable people ! Prisoners now I declare you ; for such is his Majesty's pleasure.' GRAND TRE. Route '22, 111 There disorder prevailed, and tlie tumult and stir of embarking. Busily plied the Ireiirlited Imats ; and in the confusion Wives were torn from tlieir husbands, and mothers, too lat«, saw their children Left on the laud, extending their arms, with wildest entre;ities. Suddenly rose from the south a light, as in autumn the blood-red Moon climbs the crystal walls of heaven, and o"er the horizon Titan-like stretches its hundred hands upon mountain and meadow, Seizing the rocks and the rivers, and piling huge shadows together. Broader and ever broader it gleamed on the roofs of the village. Gleamed on the sky and the sea, and the ships that lay in the roadstead. Columns of shining smoke uprose, and flashes of tiame were Thrust through their folds and withdrawn, like the quivering hands of a martyr. Then as the wind seized the gleeds and the burning thatch, and uplifting, Whirled them aloft thi"Ough the air, at once from a hundred house-tops Started the sheeted smoke, with flashes of flame intermingled. Many a weary year had passed since the burning of Grand Pr6, When on the falling tide the freighted vessels departed, Bearing a nation, with all its household gods, into exile, Exile without an end, and without an example in story. Far asunder, on separate coasts, the Acadiaus landed ; Scattered were they, like flakes of snow, when the wind from the northeast Strikes aslant through the fogs that darken the Banks of Newfoundland. Friendless, homeless, hopeless, they wandered trom city to city, From the cold lakes of the North to sultry Southern savannas, — From the bleak shores of the sea to the lands where the Father of Waters Seizes the hills in his hands, and drags them down to the ocean. Deep in their sands to bury the scattered bones of the mammoth. Friends they sought and homes ; and many, despairing, heart-broken, Asked of the earth but a grave, and no longer a friend or a fireside. Written their history stands on tablets of stone in the churchyards." Lo^•GFELLOw■s Evangeline. " Much as we may admire the various bays and lakes, the inlets, promontories, and straits, the mountains and woodlands of this rarely visited corner of creation, — and, compared with it, we can boast of no coast scenery so beautiful, — the valley of Grand Pre transcends all the rest in the Province. Only our valley of Wyoming, as an inland picture, may match it, both in beauty and tradition. One had its Ger- trude, the other its Evangeline ''' (Cozzeks ) " Beyond is a lofty and extended chain of hills, presenting a vast chasm, appar- ently burst out by the w iters of 19 rivers that empty into the Basin of Minas, and here escape into the Bay of Fundy. The variety and extent of this prespect, the beauti- ful verdant vale of the Gaspereaux ; the extended township of Horton interspersed ■with groves of wood and cultured fields, and the cloud-capped summit of the lofty cape that terminates the chain of the North Mt., form an assemblage of objects rarely united with so striking an effect." " It would be difficult to point out another landscape at all equal to that which is beheld from the hill that overlooks the site of the ancient village of Minas. On either hand extend undulating hills richly cultivated, and intermingled with farm- houses and orchards. From the base of these highlands extend the alluvial mead- ows which add so much to the appearance and wealth of Horton. The Grand Prairie is skirted by Boot and Long Islands, whose fertile and well-tilled fields are sheltered from the north by evergreen forests of dark foliage. Beyond are the wide expanse of waters of the Basin of Minas, the lower part of Cornwallis, and the isles and blue highlands of the oppusite shores. The charm of this prospect consists in the unusual combination of hill, dale, woods, and cultivated fields ; in the calm beauty of agricultural scenery ; and in the romantic wildness of the distant forests. During the summer and autumnal months immense herds of f att.e are seen quietly cropping the herbage of the Grand Prairie; while numerous vessels plving on the Basin convey a pleasing evidence of the prosperity and resources of this fertile dis- trict." (Halibueton.) n2 Route 23. ST. MARY'S BAY. 23. Annapali3 Eoyal to Clare snd Yarmouth. The railway from Annapolis to Bear River and Digby was opened in 1891, contin. uing thie older n.ilw .y route from Di^by to Yarmoutli. The ruuning of iocai steam- boats on Annapolis Basin is thus rendered uncertain. From St. John or Halifax to Annapolis Royal, see Route 18. The stage-routes from Digby to Clare and to West Port give charming views of the marine scenery of St. Mary's Bay. Tiie Western-Counties Railway lies about 3 M. from the highway, with mail-service from its stations to the villages aloug the coast. Stations. — Digby to Jordantown, 4 M. ; Bloomfield, 9; "North Range, 11; PIympton,14; Port Gilbert, 16 : Weymouth, 22 ; Belliveau, 26; Church Point, 3f) ; Little Broolv. 32; Saulnierville, 3i ; Meteghan, 37; Hectanooga, 46 ; Norwood, 49 ; Brazil, 54 ; Green Cove, 57 ; Ohio, 60 ; Hebron, 62 ; Yarmouth, 67. We add also the distances on the old highway. Itinerary. — Annapolis Royal; Clementsport, 8J M. ; Victoria Bridge, 13i; Smith's Cove, 16; Digby, 20^; St. Mary's Bav, 27* ; "Weymouth Road, 32; Wey- mouth Bridge, 38 ; Belliveau Cove, 43 ; Clare, 50 ; Meteghan Cove, 59; Cheticamp, 63 ; Bear River, 74 ; Yarmouth Lakes, 81 ; Yarmouth, 90. The railway lies farther inland than the highway, traversing a com- paratively new country, where beautiful lakes and ponds abound on every side. The fare from Yarmouth to Weymouth is .$1.65; to Digby, |2.45; to Annapolis, $3; to St. John, $3.50; to Halifax, $6.50; to Boston (lim- ited), $7. Annapolis Royal to Digby, see pages 84, 85 (reversed). On leaving Digby the line runs S. W., traversing the farming set- tlement of Marshall town, and crosses the isthmus between the An- napolis Basin and St. Mary's Bay, a distance of about 7 M. Thence- forward, for over 30 M., the highway lies near the beautiful * St. Mary's Bay, which is about 35 M. long, with a width of from 3 to 10 M. On the opposite shore are the higldands of Digb}^ Neck (see Route 24), a continu- ation of the North Mt. range. On this shore a wide belt of level land has been left between the receding range of the South Mt. (or Blue Mts.) and the bay, and the water-front is occupied by numerous farms. In St. Mary's Bay the fleet of the Sieur de Monts lay for two weeks, in 1604, while the shores were being explored by boat's-crews. The mariners were greatly rejoiced in finding what they supposed to be valuable deposits of iron and silver. The Parisian priest Aubry was lost on one of these excursions, and roamed through the woods for 16 days, eating nothing but berries, until another vessel took him off. The name Bale de Ste. Marie was given by Champlain. Brighton is at the head of the bay, and is a pleasant agriciiltural vilhige with a small inn. The hamlets of Barton (or Specht's Cove) and Gilbert's Cove are soon passed, and the stage enters the pretty village of Weymouth (two inns), a seaport which builds some handsome vessels, and has a snug little trade with the United States and the West Indies. It is at the mouth of the Sissiboo IJiver, on whose opposite shore is the Acadian hamlet of New E(litibur(/h. Across St. Mary's Bay is the niantinie vilhige of Sandy Cove. Steamers run weekly from Wevmouth to St John and to Yarmouth. The line now ascends the r. bank of the Sissiboo River to Weymotith Bridge (Jones's Hotel), a maritime village of about the same size as Wey- mouth. It is 4 M. from tlie mouth of the river; and 2-3 M. to tlie J', are the Sissiboo Falls. The shore of St. Mary's Bay is rc^'ained at Belli' veau Cove (small inn), an Acadian hamlet ciiiefiy devoted to agriculture CLARE. ■ Route 23. 113 and shipbuilding. From this point down to Beaver River, and beyond through the Tusket and Pubnico regions, the shore is occupied by a range of hamlets which are inhabited by the descendants of the old Ac^idian- Froiich. The Clare Settlements wore founded about 1763 by the descendants of the Acailians who had been exiled to New England. After the conque.st of Canada these unfortunate wanderer-s were .-sutTered to return to Nova Scotia, but tliey found their former domains about the Ba.