Qass_, Book^_ BEADBUEY AND GUILD'S EAILEOAD MAPS, NO. 4. NEW YORK AND THE iVHITE MOUNTAINS Cnraplftp 3ttD]i, fc AND NUMEROUS WOOD-CUT VIEWS OF THE PRINCIPAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST UPON THE LINE. BY WILLIAM GUILD. BOSTON: " " PUBLISHED BY BRADBURY & GUILD, 120 WASHINGTON STREET. 18 5 2. v^^^- Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852, By dexter S. KING, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts. PRESS OF GEO. C. RAND, ■WOOD CUT AND BOOK PRINTER, CORNUILL, liOSTON. STEUEOTTPED BY HOBART & ROBBINS, NEW ENGLAND TYPE AND STEREOTYPE FOUNDKKY, -V L'O S T N. 4. % <^ CONTENTS STATIONS. MILES FROM NEW YORK. PAGE. VOllKVILLE, 5 15 HARLEM, 8 15 MORISSANIA, 9 17 FORDHAM, 11 17 \nLLIAMS' BRIDGE, 13 17 NEW ROCHELLE, 20 19 MAMARONECK, 23 21 RYE, 27 22 PORT CHESTER, 29 22 GREENWICH, 31 22 STAMFORD, 36 24 DARIEN, 41 25 NORWALK, 44 25 WESTPORT, 47 26 SOUTHPORT, 52 26 FAIRFIELD, 53 27 BRIDGEPORT, 58 28 STRATFORD, 62 29 MILFORD, 68 30 NEW HAVEN, 76 30 NORTH HAVEN, 83 33 WALLINGFORD, 88 34 MERIDEN, 94 35 BERLIN, 101 36 NEW BRITAIN, 104 37 HARTFORD, llli 37 WINDSOR, 118 38 WINDSOR LOCKS, 123i 39 WAREHOUSE POINT, 127 40 TIIO:\IPSONVILLE, 129 40 LONGMEADOW, 133 40 SPRINGFIELD, 136} 42 CABOT JUNCTION, 139J U CONTENTS. STATIONS. MILES FROM NEW YORK. PAGE. WILLmANSETT, 143 44 HOLYOKE, 144 44 SMITH'S FERRY, 149 45 NORTHAMPTON, 153 47 HATFIELD, 15S 48 AVHATELY, 162i 48 SOUTH DEERFIELD, 165 48 DEERFIELD, 169 48 GREENFIELD, 172 4-9 BERNARDSTON, 179 50 SOUTH VERNON, 186 50 VERNON, 191 51 BRATTLEBORO', 196 61 DUMMERSTON, 201 52 PUTNEY, 205 52 WESTMINSTER, 215 52 BELLOWS' FALLS, 220 53 SOUTH CHARLESTOWN, 224 56 CHARLESTOWN, 228 56 NORTH CHARLESTOWN, 233 57 CLAREMONT, 237 57 WINDSOR, . . . . • 245i 58 IIARTLAND, 250 59 NORTH HARTLAND, 254 59 WHITE RIVER JUNCTION, 261 59 NORWICH AND HANOVER, 265^ 61 OMPOMPANOOSUC, 271 62 THETFORD AND LYME, 275 63 NORTH THETFORD, 278 63 FAIRLEE AND ORFORD, 283 63 BRADFORD 289 04 NEWBURY, 297 65 WELLS RIVER, 301 65 RYEGATP], 306 66 McINDOE'S FALLS, 310 66 BARNET, 313 66 McLERAN'S FALLS, 315 67 PASSUMPSIC, 319 67 ST. JOHNSBURY, 322 67 THE WHITE ^MOUNTAINS, 71 INTEODUCTORY. HE pleasure travel during the summer, ;<^^ especially from the middle and southern portion of the Union, now sets strongly towards the White Mountains. A few years since, a journey thither was scarcely thought of in connection with the ques- tion, "Where shall we go?" A few lovers of novelty, anxious to look upon the world of nature in her wildest mood, made an occasional visit to the summits of these noble mountains; but they were looked upon as hardy adventurers on their return. Perhaps the principal reason why these hills were not sooner discovered, was, the want of an easy method of reaching their neighborhood. Water communication there was none ; and the comforts of a ride of two or three hundred miles by stage, were not likely to attract a great number of persons. But all this is now changed. The comfortable railroad car now flies daily to the very base of these stupendous heights, upon all sides. Upon the north, in going from Portland, you are left at G-orham, with a distant view of Mount Washington, the highest of the group. On the south you are not so lucky, the cars approaching no nearer than Meredith, nearly fifty miles from the mountains. The ride, however, from that point, is one of great beauty, and not at all 6 INTRODUCTORY. tedious. On the west, at the termination of the line we are now about to describe, there are two points from which the traveller can be set down at " Crawford's," after a most charming ride of about thirty-five miles. To visitors from New York this is by far the best route. The particulars will be found in another place. In addition to the White Mountain scenery of this region, Wil- LOUGHBY Lake is attracting the notice of travellers. This lake is situated between two lofty hills, the sides of which are nearly per- pendicular, about twenty miles north of St. Johnsbury. The reader will find a description of this charming spot in its proper place. The distance from New York to St. Johnsbury, which is at present the termination of the great Connecticut River Railroad line, is 322 miles, and is divided as follows : — Harlem Railroad, ?ic New York to Williams' Bridge, . . . . ) New York and New Haven Railroad, . . . > Williams' Bridge to New Haven, Connecticut, ) New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield Railroad, > New Haven to Springfield, Mass., . . . . ) ^ Connecticut River Railroad, > Springfield to South Vernon, ) ^ Vermont and Massachusetts Railroad, . . . > South Vernon to Brattleboro', ) ^ Vermont Valley Railroad, Brattleboro' to Bellows Falls, Sullivan Railroad, } V on Bellows Falls to Windsor, ) ^ Vermont Central Railroad, 25 15 Windsor to White River, ) Passumpsic Railroad, ) White River to St. Johnsbury, ) Total miles 322 INTRODUCTORY. Throughout the entire length of this line there are scarcely a dozen miles without some object of interest to an intelligent traveller. By far the larger portion of the distance is along the valley of the Connecticut River, now running close to the water's edge, to shun some precipitous hill, now receding again one or two miles distant ; now stretching in a direct line across some extensive meadow, so common and so beautiful upon the banks of this far-famed river ; and now, when you are sure an approaching hill must be tunnelled, dashing across the broad river, high enough above the water to look anything but pleasant, to the opposite shore, where there are fewer obstacles to a direct way. Neat and thriving villages, also, meet your view at almost every bend of the road. During the months of June, July and August, when the broad meadows are being stripped of their crops, and the landscape is colored with various tints by the ripe and ripening grain, the prospect is beautiful and enchanting in the extreme. Nor is this all. Many points upon this line possess great his- torical interest. When viewed by an intelligent traveller, such places become fixed in the memory forever, and the whole picture rises at once to view whenever the various occurrences are remem- bered. There is no need of going to France, or to Italy, or to Switzer- land, for splendid scenery, for towering mountains and glassy lakes. We have them all around us at home. And it needs only that the attention of travellers should be directed to many retired localities near us to render them as famous as any that Europe can boast of. Although more especially intended for the White Mountain tourist, it is hoped that this work will be found of service to the general reader. The wood-cut engravings will be found correct and highly valuable for preservation, as views of American scenery. All of them were taken from nature, expressly for this work, and many of them are views never before published. Tables of routes from the main line, generally so difficult to be INTRODUCTORY. understood, have been entirely omitted. A general map of the whole line has been prepared, which can be examined at any time without the labor of folding and unfolding, — a task extremely inconvenient in a crowded conveyance, as well as an annoyance to the possessor and to other passengers. The roads will be treated of in the direct order in which they occur. The descriptive matter will be necessarily brief, but, it is hoped, sufficiently comprehensive for the use of the general trav- eller. At various points along the line a delay of one or two days is highly desirable to those who have leisure for short excursions into the neighborhood. Even a delay of one train will give an indi- vidual considerable time to examine objects of interest in the vicinity. Passengers, who purchase through tickets, have the privi- lege of stopping as long as they please, at any point, and proceed- ing in any subsequent train. When such delay is proposed at any station not at the termination of either of the roads, it is necessary to mention the wish to the conductor, who will endorse your check. If this work shall serve to impart such information to the trav- eller as shall render his journey more pleasant and interesting than it otherwise would have been, the whole design of its author will be fulfilled. To one who, in passing over a portion of the country never before visited by him or herself, prefers to read a newspaper, or the last new novel, he fears the work will be useless. But to the traveller who is an observer^ — who belongs to that great, and, it is hoped, increasing, class of people denominated, according to Webster, the Eyes, it may meet with a more ready reception. THE HARLEM RAILROAD Tunnel at Yorkvii.le. The Harlem Railroad is now completed and in operation to Chatham Corners, where it unites with the Western Railroad, forming a direct line to Albany. It was one of the first roads commenced in America; and, for many years, extended only to 10 THE HARLEM RAILROAD. Harlem, eight miles. Beginning at the station near City Hall, it extends through Centre and Broome streets, the Bowery, and Fourth Avenue, as far as Twenty-seventh street, where steam is taken. From Twenty-seventh-street to Harlem the road has a double track, and is perfectly straight. The earth-work, embank- ments, and rock-cuttings upon these five miles are very great. A large portion of the excavations are of the hardest rock. The tun- nel at Prospect Hill, near Yorkville, is, perhaps, the most expen- sive portion. It is all cut from rock, and the arch overhead is the natural ledge, and, to all appearance, worked off nearly smooth. The view given in the accompanying cut is from Yorkville, looking north. At jMorissania the road crosses what is called Harlem River. This is really a separate mouth of the Hudson, which branches off some fifteen miles above its principal outlet, forming Manhattan Island, upon which the city of New York is built. There is very little current running through it, except what is made by the rising and falling tide. The line now follows up the valley of the Bronx Biver, to Wil- liams' Bridge, at which point the New York and New Haven road branches off. Above this point the Harlem road continues up the Bronx valley nearly to the source of the river, and strikes across the country in a nearly direct line to Chatham Corners. Upon that portion of the Harlem road between the City Hall and Twenty-seventh street, the cars are drawn by horses, the cor- poration not allowing steam to be used below Twenty-seventh street. The light city cars always go singly, and run every five minutes throughout the day, stopping at any place to land or receive pas- sengers. The cars which run above Twenty-seventh street, stop only at stated places. New York is the largest, most wealthy, most flourishing of Amer- ican cities ; the great commercial emporium of the United States, and one of the greatest in the world. The compact portion of the city is built upon the southern end of Manhattan Island, and now TUE HARLEM RAILROAD. 11 extends to Thirteenth street, which is the first street, as you pro- ceed northwardly, that runs in a straight line quite across the island. The distance from the Battery to this point is nearly three miles. Above this, for at least two miles further, the space is rapidly being filled up by elegant dwelling-houses. No city in the world possesses greater advantages for foreign commerce and inland trade. In addition to the main sea approach through the Narrows to the harbor, the channel through East River to Long Island Sound, and the Hudson River, two long lines of canals have increased its natural advantages, and connected it with the remote west ; and have rendered it the great mart of a vast region, now occupied by industrious millions; while its railroad facilities of communication with every quarter have made it the great mercantile centre of the nation. Its progress in population, trade, and wealth, has probably never been equalled. In 1800, the population was but 60,000 ; while, by the late census, it was found to be about half a million. Manhattan Island is fourteen miles in length, and averages, per- haps, one and a half miles in breadth. Its greatest breadth is at Eighty-sixth street, and is two miles and a quarter. Hudson River bounds it upon the west, East River on the east, while on the north it is separated from the main land by Harlem River and Spuyten Duyvel Creek. In its natural state the surface was some- what hilly and marshy, but these inequalities have been reduced to an almost complete level in that portion occupied by the city, the ground having merely a gentle slope on each side towards the water. The highest point upon the island is near Fort Washington, being about 238 feet above the river. The harbor, or bay of New York, as it is called, is one of the finest in the world ; safe, commodious, and rarely obstructed by the ice. It is twenty-five miles in circumference, easy of access, com- pletely sheltered from storms, and of sufficient size and depth of water to contain the united navies of the world. The principal entrance between Statcn and Long Islands is about half a mile 12 TUE HARLEM RAILROAD. wide, and well defended by strong fortifications. There are also batteries on several other islands, further up the bay. The varie- gated scenery upon its shores, together with the neatly-built cot- tages, the country seats of opulent citizens, and the fine view of the city in approaching from the " Narrows," impart to this harbor a beauty probably unsurpassed by that of any other in the world. Many of the streets at the southern extremity of the city are narrow and crooked. The greater part of those built latterly are laid out with more care. Broadway, the principal street, is eighty feet wide, entirely straight, and extends from the Battery to Unioii Square, a distance of nearly three miles. It is the great promenade of the city, being much resorted to by the gay and fashionable ; and few streets in the world exceed it in the splendor and bustle it exhibits. Here is a continued stream of carriages, wagons, drays, omnibuses, and all sorts of vehicles designed for business or pleasure ; on the side-walks, crowds of pedestrians saunter along or hurry by, while the sound of various languages meets the ear. No person possessing a spark of curiosity should fail to look upon Broadway from the spire of Trinity Church. This church stands in Broadway, at the head of Wall street. It is built throughout of sandstone, without galleries, and cost nearly half a million of dollars. The height of its spire is 283 feet. Visiters have access to the tower at all times, except when the building is occupied for religious purposes. A small fee is expected by the person in attendance. This tower affords the most splendid panoramic view to be seen on this continent. Ascending the stairway, you reach a landing on a level with the ceiling of the church, from which there is a view of the elegant interior. You next reach the belfry, where the chime bells are hung, which so frequently ring out their solemn peal. Upon reaching the highest landing, a most superb view meets your gaze. The city, busy with life and animation, lies at your feet, spread out like a map; while, far and wide, in every direction, the country, rivers, villages, and THE HARLEM RAILROAD. 13 islands are scattered before you, arrayed in all the attractions with which nature and art have invested them. Many other buildings in the city will repay one the trouble of a visit, but it is not necessary to give a more extended description of them here. The Exchange and the Custom House are among the first in importance. Besides many objects within the city worthy of notice, visiters will find much in the immediate vicinity to interest them. Green- wood Cemetery, and the Navy Yard, at Brooklyn, Rockaway Beach, Fort Hamilton, Coney Island, Hoboken, &c., claim the notice of strangers. These are all noticed in the various guide-books of the city. New York has been, for a long" time, celebrated for her fine hotels. Probably in no other city in the United States can a traveller find so much attention paid to his comfort as here. Standing preeminent among the first class, is the new "Metro- politan Hotel, in Broadway, at the corner of Prince and Crosby streets. This immense building, a fine view of which is given upon the following page, built upon the site of Niblo's Garden, has been leased by the Messrs. Leland, formerly of Clinton Hotel. It is built of brown stone, six stories high, and has a frontage upon Broadway of five hundred and twenty-six feet. It has one hundred suits of apartments, each comprising parlor, bed-room, and dressing- room, the latter supplied with hot and cold water, and all heated by steam. Of course, besides these, there are a large number of single rooms, similarly furnished. In the richness of the furniture and fixtures, no house in America can compare with it. Next to a good home is a good hotel ; and it seems to have been the study of the projectors of this immense building to make travellers forget they have any other home. But we are seated in the railroad car, and are now being slowly drawn through the densely packed streets by horses. Along the Bowery, aside from the ceaseless throng ever shuffling along the sidewalk, or rattling over the pavement, the prospect is not over THE UAllLEM RAILROAD. 15 enchanting ; but above Union Park, the cars pass some splendid dwellings. At Thirty-first street, the locomotive is waiting. From this point to Williams' Bridge Junction, the New Haven trains rarely stop. We will, however, notice the stations as they are passed. YoRKViLLE, five miles, is a mere village, one of the many suburbs of New York. The station is on the left, soon after enter- ing the deep rock cut, just before reaching the Prospect Hill tunnel. The gi*eat receiving reservoir of the Croton water-works, covering thirty-jive acres, is but a quarter of a mile west of this station. Passing the tunnel, we arrive at a lono;, hio;h embankment and bridge, across a valley, the view from which is highly picturesque. The traveller will not fail to wish for more time to look about him ; yet, notwithstanding the transient view that he obtains, he will never forget it. On the north, upon the sloping highlands of the island, is the Orphan Asylum, the Roman Catholic College, founded by Bishop Hughes, and many other smaller edifices. The hill-top is crowned with the ruins of Fort Washington, where, during the Revolution, the American arms sustained a defeat, and 2600 men surrendered themselves prisoners of war. In the distance are the Palisade rocks, on the west bank of the Hudson. On the south, across East River, are the hills and shores of Long Island Sound. Great Barn Island, situated close to "Huid Gate," is directly be- tween, and close at hand. Harlem, or Haerlem, eight miles from the City Hall, is quite a manufacturing place. It is situated upon a plain, and was founded by the Dutch, with a view to the amusement and recreation of the citizens. The cars run between the city and Harlem many times daily. Omnibuses also run, every fifteen minutes, over the Third Avenue, a beautiful Macadamized road. From Harlem, carriages take visiters to the " High Bridge," so called, about three miles distant. It is the viaduct which carries the Croton water across Harlem River. It is built of stone, 1450 feet long, with fifteen arches, eight of them of eighty feet span, and 16 THE HARLEM RAILROAD. seven of fifty feet span, the top being one hundred and fourteen feet above the water. It is a splendid structure, and well worth a visit. It cost over one million of dollars. View of High Bridge. The water which is carried over this bridge is taken from Croton River, five miles from the Hudson, and forty miles from New York city. The dam, at that point, is two hundred and fifty feet long, and forty feet high, creating a pond five miles in length, and cov- ering four hundred acres. From the dam the aqueduct proceeds, near the banks of the Hudson, across streams and valleys, by embankments and bridges, to Harlem River, where it crosses, and follows down Manhattan Island, on the high ground, to the great reservoir at Eighty-second street. This is built of stone, and nearly square, covering an area of thirty-five acres, and capable of containing one hundred and fifty millions of gallons. It is divided into two divisions, by means of a partition wall, either basin of which can be filled at pleasure. From this the aqueduct proceeds, as before, to the distributing reservoir, at Fortieth street, another splendid stone structure, though smaller than the first ; and from thence the water is distributed through the city by means of iron NEW YORK AND NEW KAVEN RAILROAD. 17 pipes, of which there are more than two hundred miles, from six to thirty-six inches in diameter. The whole cost of the Croton water- works will exceed fourteen millions of dollars. It is by far the greatest work of the kind of modern times. MoRRissANiA, just after crossing Harlem River, is the next sta- tion. Between this place and Mott Haven, another station, many buildings have been erected during the past five years, and occupied by individuals doing business in the city. Trains run many times daily, each way, and passengers are landed at City Hall, directly in the centre of the city. FoRDiiAM, eleven miles and a half. This is a small and unimportant village. It is the seat of St. John's College, a Roman Catholic institution, established in 1841. It is a large and commodious edifice, built upon a beautiful sloping lawn, bordered with large trees. It is close to the railroad on the south, and is really a place of great beauty. Williams' Bridge, thirteen miles and a half, about a mile and a half south of the junction of the New Haven Railroad, is the next station, considered the terminus of that road. There are very few buildings of any kind in the neighborhood. Its only importance arises from the fact that it is the junction of the two roads. We now cross the Bronx River, a small stream, and enter upon the New York and New Haven Railroad. NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. This is one of the most important lines in America. It is sixty- one miles in length, extending from its junction with the Harlem road to tlie city of New Haven, in Connecticut ; and must forever remain, without fear of competition, the only direct land route be- tween New York city and the Connecticut River valley ; including, 2 18 NEW YORK AND NEW HAYEN RAILROAD. of course, nearly the whole of the eastern travel. During the summer season, several small steamboats navigate the Sound, stop- ping at Norwalk, Bridgeport, &c. ; yet, for several years, the railroad has competed successfully with these, and, at all times, commands the bulk of the travel. The New Haven road was chartered in 1844, yet, by reason of eonflictins: interests, nothino; was done towards buildino: the road until the spring of 1847, when ground was broken at several points, and the work went vigorously on. In the month of Decem- ber, 1848, the road was opened for travel. Nearly the whole distance to New Haven, this line follows along within a few miles of the shores of Long Island Sound, frequently crossing the wide arms of it at the mouths of the principal rivers, which extend some distance inland. In consequence of thus cross- ing the streams at right angles, there is a continued succession of rising and falling grades to overcome the summits in the intervals. More than half the distance the grades are from thirty to forty feet per mile. Yet all the summits are light ; only one, which is about two miles from the Harlem junction, being more than one hundred feet above high tides. The road is well calculated for high speed, the express trains making thirty miles per hour, without difficulty. Many trains are run each way daily, part of which, only, stop at the way stations. The road is capitally managed, all its officers being practical busi- ness men, thoroughly acquainted with all the various duties incident to their stations. Leaving the Harlem road at the junction, the cars rise by a forty-foot grade for a distance of nearly two miles. The Harlem track follows along the Bronx valley, close at hand, for most of this distance, until a sharp curve in the New Haven road, as we ap- proach the Chester summit, hides it from view. At this summit, which is the highest on the line, there is a very extensive cutting in rock, one of the last points upon the road completed. We are now one hundred and nineteen feet above the Sound. Passing this, wo NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. 19 enter a descending plane, to East Chester Creek, the valley of which is quite wide and beautiful. Ascending another light sum- mit, and descending as before, bring us to New Rochellk Station'. New Rochelle, twenty miles from New York. The station here is built directly over the track. The traveller will be struck with the taste displayed in the construction of the stations on this road. Nearly the whole of them are built after one design, and make a very pretty appearance. New Rochelle was settled by Huguenots, from Rochelle, in France ; the village is about one fourth of a mile from the station, pleasantly situated at the head of a small bay setting up from Long Island Sound. A steamboat plies daily with New York. This village is neatly situated, overlooking the Sound, the greater part of the buildings being constructed with great taste and regularity. Many persons doing business in New York have their residences at New Rochelle, and pass to and from, either by the cars or steamboat, daily. The number of these is fast increasing. Before many years, aided by the efforts of the railroad company, who have placed the commutation fare at the lowest remunerative rate, this will become a place of considerable importance. New Rochelle was, for several years, the residence of Thomas 20 NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. Paine. He died here, in 1809; and, at his own request, the fol- lowing inscription was placed upon his monument : — " Thomas Paine, author of Common Sense, died June 8, 1809, aged 72 years." The monument, of which the following is a correct representation, stands upon what was formerly a part of his own estate. w MONUMEXT OF THOMAS PAINE. Soon after leaving New Rochelle, the traveller will have a fine view of the Sound, through a group of trees upon the south, with the shores of Long Island in the distance. There are numerous places upon the New Haven road where, for a short distance, there is a charming view of the Sound, dotted here and there with the white sails of the numerous coasting vessels with which the water NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. 21 is perpetually covered. These fine, though transitory, pietui"es add much to the pleasure of a summer trip over this road. HOBLKTS. Mamaroneck Village, nkar the Station. Mamaroneck, twenty-three miles and a half, is the next station. The village, which lies upon the shores of the Sound, about half a mile distant, is hid from view by a slight rise of ground inter- Mamaronkck Crossing vening. Between the railroad station and the village, just upon the brow of the hill, there is a fine view of the Sound and Long Island, with the village of Mamaroneck spread out close at hand. Mamaroneck Creek, a small stream, falls into the Sound a short distance from the station. The bridpje over the stream is a fine 22 NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. structure, built of faced granite, and arelied. There is also a deep rock cut near the station. Rye, twenty-seven miles. The station here is half a mile north of the main village. The town has an uneven surface, and a cold, clayey soil. It is watered by several streams, Blind Brook, near the station, being the largest. Port Chester, twenty-nine miles. Here is a large and thriving village ; though many of the buildings have an appearance of anti- quity about them, especially those near the water. It is situated directly at the mouth of Byram River, the dividing line between New York and Connecticut. Several schooners are owned here, and a steamboat plies daily with New York. Crossing Byram River, we are in Connecticut. The line fol- lows along over a rough and rocky district, to Greenwich, thirty-one miles and a half. There are three vil- lages in the town, the most important one being at the south-west part, and near this station. This is sometimes called Horseneck, from a peninsula on the Sound near by, formerly used as a pas- turage for horses. The country, for several miles around, is unu- sually wild and savage in its aspect, large masses of rocks being scattered about in great disorder. Yet, where cultivated, the soil is good, and fitted for every production of the climate. There are several small streams, which discharge their waters into the Sound, on the southern border of the town, of which the Miannus is the largest. This town was purchased of the Indians, in 1640, by the Dutch, then located at New Amsterdam, or New York. The Indians, having for some cause taken a great dislike for the Dutch, after a time began to annoy the inhabitants. These proceedings at length led to open hostilities, and a general battle was fought between the two parties on that part of Horse Neck called Strickland's Plains. The action was long and severe, both parties fighting with great obstinacy. The Dutch, however, kept the field, and the Indians withdrew. This action took place in 1646. NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAI . 23 UTNAM'S HILL, or PuVs Ridge, as it is called, is in Greenwich, the cars passing it through a very deep rock cutting, a few rods east of the station, where the hill is most abrupt. This place is celebrated for the daring exploit of General Putnam, who descended its steep and rocky sides, upon horseback, when pursued by British dragoons. The place is considerably altered since the Revolution. A small Episcopal church formerly stood on the brow of the hill. The members of the congregation who lived below the hill, in order to save the tedious circuit of going round in the road, when walking to church, built a rude set of stone steps up the steep precipice, near the church, to accommodate foot passengers. It was at this place that the occurrence took place. Governor Tryon, the British commander, was approaching this spot from Horse Neck, in February, 1779, with a body of fifteen hundred men. General Putnam planted two iron field-pieces near the meeting-house, without horses or drag-ropes. Having fired his cannon several times, Putnam, perceiving the dragoons, supported by the infantry, about to charge, ordered his men, about one hundred and fifty in number, to provide for their safety, and secured his own by plunging down the precipice at full trot. The 24 NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. dragoons, who were but a few rods from him, stopped short, struck with astonishment at his daring flight. No one dared follow him ; and before they could gain the valley, by going round in the road, he was far beyond their reach. As soon as they recovered some- what from their amazement, probably waiting to see him and his horse dashed to pieces, several shots were fired at him, one of which passed through his hat. Soon after leaving Greenwich, the road crosses the Miannus Kiver upon a bridge forty feet above the water. The village of Coscob, or East Greenwich, stands one mile north of this bridge, on the west bank of the stream. There is a fine view of the Sound from this bridge, on the south. MI" ' VD St Viaduct oter Mill River. Further on, the line crosses Mill or Stamford River upon an arched stone viaduct. All the larger bridges upon this line, being built within the influence of the tide, are of timber. Those across the smaller streams are of stone, and arched. Stamford, thirty-six miles and a half. The Indian name of this place was Rippoivams. It was purchased of the Indians by Cap- tain Nathaniel Turner, about 1640, for "twelve coats, twelve hoes, twelve hatchets, twelve knives, two kettles, and four fathoms of white wampum." A reservation of planting ground was made for the Indians. Stamford is now one of the prettiest villages upon the line. It is NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. 25 about half a mile north of the station. The streets and buildings have an air of neatness and order about them, which is not often seen. The town is well supplied with mill-seats by Mill and IMiannus Rivers, both of which run through the entire length of it. It has a fine harbor at the mouth of Mill or Stamford River, for vessels of eight feet draught and less. Besides this, a canal has been cut from an arm of the Sound to the village, affording abun- dant means of intercourse with other towns upon the coast by water. The country round in the vicinity is full of interesting scenery. Leaving Stamford, there is a rising grade to overcome a consid- erable summit in Darien. Upon reaching this high ground, it im- mediately changes to a descending plane ; and at Norwalk, only three miles distant, the line is again close to tide water. Darien, forty-one miles, is the next station. This is an agricul- tural town. The village is situated upon a small stream, which falls into a narrow bay that sets up from the Sound. Norwalk, forty-four miles and a half. This is one of the most flourishing towns in the state. The principal village is situated upon Norwalk River, one mile and a half from the Sound. Here is a tliriving and very pretty village, built upon both sides of the river, and connected by a bridge. Vessels of light draught come up to the village, while the steamboats, and those drawing more than seven feet, land at the south village, near the mouth of the river. The station is at the south village. There is constant intercourse, however, between the two, by means of a short branch road, which joins the main road at the station. Cars are run over this branch to meet every outward and inward train. Like Stamford, this town was purchased of the Indians, about the year 1640. There is something exceedingly amusing in the account of these land sales, given in the old records. There was evidently very little litigation in those days, or the sharp-eyed traders would have grumbled at some of the terms of the contracts. For- instance, in the ancient records, the bounds of Norwalk are stated to be "from Norwalk River to Saukatuck (now Saugatuck) 26 NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. Kiver, from sea, Indian one day walk into the country ^ The worth of such a tract might be supposed to depend somewhat upon the inducements offered the " Indian " to "walk." For the above- mentioned tract, the following articles were given, viz. : "8 fath- oms wampum, 6 coats, 10 hatchets, 10 hoes, 10 knives, 10 scizers, 10 juseharps, 10 fathom tobacco, 3 kettles, 3 hands-about, and 10 looking-glasses." The following articles were given to the Indians for the tract "from Norwalk River to Five-mile River, from sea, Indian one day walk in country," viz. : " 10 fathom wampum, 3 hatchets, 3 hoes when ships come, 6 glasses, 12 tobacco-pipes, 3 knives, 10 drillers, 10 needles." The name of Norwalk is derived from the above bargains, the northern boundaries being one day's north walk into the country. Norwalk was burned by the British under Grovernor Try on, July 11, 1779. Six houses only remained undestroyed. Leaving Norwalk, we cross the river upon another long wooden bridge, forty feet above the water, and strike across a level tract to Westport, forty-seven miles and a half. This town lies at the mouth of the Saugatuck River. The village, which is one of con- siderable size, is about three miles from the Sound, and built on both sides of the stream, a bridge connecting the two divisions. The country round Westport is romantic. Ball Mountain, near the village, is a conical eminence, covered with large trees from its base to its summit, and is a striking feature in the landscape. SouTHPORT, fifty-two miles, is the next station. There is a large and thriving village here. It is situated at the mouth of Mill River, in the south-westerly corner of the town of Fairfield, about two miles from the centre village. It has a fine harbor for vessels of one hundred tons, rarely frozen over, and considerable business from coasting vessels. Directly back of the village, and north of the station, is the cele- brated Pequot swamp, where that once powerful and warlike tribe of savages, in July, 1637, made their last stand against the forces NEW YORK AND NEW UAVEN RAILROAD. 27 of Massachusetts and Connecticut, under Captain Mason. In this conflict the Pequots received their final overthrow, and their exist- ence as a tribe was ended. After the Pequot fort at Mystic was destroyed, a large body of the tribe took refuge in this swamp. l-fc^A^ SocTUP^uT Statiox. One of their number, loitering behind the rest, was discovered by the English, and forced to disclose the place of their retreat. One hundred of them surrendered. The rest, resolved to live or die together, were attacked and utterly destroyed. Fairfield, fifty-three miles and three quarters. This is one of the best farming towns in the state. The surface is level, or gently undulating ; the soil excellent. The villages of Southport, Green Farms, and Grreenfield, are all in this town. Black Rock harbor, about two miles from the centre of the town, is, next to New London, the best harbor upon Long Island Sound ; having nineteen feet of water at summer tides. It is also safe and commodious. During the last war with England, a small fort was erected on an eminence which commanded the entrance of this harbor, and a small body of militia were maintained as garrison for a short time. Fairfield was burned by Governor Tryon, in 1779. The trav- eller will doubtless call to mind several other similar outrages of this kind, previously mentioned, of this brave general. In fact, it 28 NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. seemed to have been the policy of the British commanders to employ this man to perform all acts of a barbarous kind which they wished to inflict; inasmuch as we are told that "wherever Tryon and his Hessian soldiers landed, the inhabitants fled, knowing that then- houses would be burned." In this case, the British landed upon the beach on the 8th of July, 1779. The expedition was so sudden, that no preparations had been made by the inhabitants to meet them ; yet a few col- lected together, and for a time prevented the advance of their invaders. But they were soon overpowered ; the town was plun- dered, and over two hundred buildings, including two churches, an elegant court-house, and a large number of barns, just filled with hay and grain, were reduced to ashes. The next day, they pro- ceeded to the little village of Green Farms, and burnt a church, the parsonage, and about forty other buildings. The distress occa- sioned by these outrages was said to have been extreme. Four miles beyond Fairfield, near Bridgeport, the traveller will be able to catch a view of Iranistan, the country seat of P. T. Barnum, the wealthy proprietor of the American Museum, in New York city, and well known, both in this country and in Europe, as the guardian of the famous Tom Thumb. It is built in the eastern style of architecture, and surrounded by large shade trees. The tall, dome-like spires, which rise above the surrounding scenery, give the place a very romantic appearance ; and, at a distance, it might well be taken for a Turkish villa. Bridgeport, fifty-eight miles and a half, formerly called New- field. It is compactly built, and is one of the most beautiful and flourishing places in New England. It was formerly a part of Stratford; but, in 1821, it was set off as a town by itself, and in 1836 was incorporated as a city. It is located on an elevated plain, on the west side of an arm of Long Island Sound, and com- mands extended views of the surrounding country. The ground on which the city is built is elevated about fifteen feet above high water. In the rear of the city, another more elevated plain com- NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN BAILROAD. 20 mences, which gradually rises to the height of fifty feet above the lowc^r town, and aflfords some splendid locations for private dwell- ings. The main part of the city is built with great neatness and elegance. The harbor is safe ; but the navigation for large vessels is impeded by a bar at its mouth, of about thirteen feet of water at high tide. Still a large business is done here in the coasting trade, some in foreign commerce, and some in fisheries. There is a bridge across the harbor, 1300 feet in length, with a draw for the passage of vessels. The city is watered by the Pequa- nuc River, affording some water power. Carriage-making and saddlery are carried on here to considerable extent, and a large amount is annually exported. An extensive carriage-factory has recently been built by an incorporated company on the east side of the river, near the railroad bridge, a view of which is had from the cars. The distance across the Sound, at Bridgeport, is 18 miles. On the north, Bridgeport receives considerable business from the Hou- satonic Raikoad, extending to the Western Railroad at Stockbridge, a distance of ninety-six miles. This road was completed in 1842, atacostofS2,000,000. After leaving Bridgeport, the line follows along the wharves of the city, and crosses the Pequanuc River upon a pile bridge. Thence it crosses a level plain to Stratford, sixty-two miles. This town was originally called Cupheag. Its surface is level, lying directly upon the Sound ; and it has a large tract of meadows upon the Housatonic River and harbor. The principal street, about one mile in length, running north and south, is ornamented with fine shade trees. One mile beyond Stratford, the line crosses the Housatonic River upon a long covered wooden bridge. At the easterly end of this bridge, the Naugatuck Railroad branches off to the north, up the valley of the river. This road extends from Bridgeport to Winsted, Conn., a distance of sixty-two miles. From Bridgeport to the junction, it follows parallel with the New York road ; and 30 NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAD. from thence it follows up the Housatonic river to Derby, where it strikes the Naugatuck Kiver, which it follows to its termination at Winsted. MiLFORD, sixty-six miles and a half, is one of the oldest towns in the state. It is situated at the mouth of Wopowaug River, on which there are several fine mill seats There are no mountains, and very little broken land in the town. The soil is productive. There is a quarry of serpentine marble in the eastern part, but it is not now worked. Milford Point, at the south-west part of the town, is noted as being the head-quarters of the clam and oyster fisheries, of which large quantities are taken annually. New Haven, seventy-six miles from New York, is the principal city in Connecticut. It was formerly called Red Mount, doubtless from the appearance of those two prominent elevations near at hand, East and West Rocks. Its Indian name was Quinnipiac. New Haven is beautifully situated upon a small bay, making up from Long Island Sound, in a large plain, surrounded on three sides by lofty and precipitous hills. The harbor is spacious and safe, but shallow, and said to be rapidly filling up. A wharf ex- tends down the harbor nearly three quarters of a mile. A canal, seventy-six miles in length, was built, many years since, to connect the waters of this harbor with the Connecticut River, at Northamp- ton, Mass. ; but it is now abandoned. The city of New Haven is regularly laid out, and prettily built, many of the houses having gardens, or neatly kept grounds, attached to them, and some of the principal streets, and the principal square, are mostly ornamented with large elm trees. The College Green ^ as it is called, is a large square, containing about fifteen acres. It is divided into two sections by Temple street, and this is lined with stately trees. The eastern section is entirely free from buildings. On the western section, there are three churches, facing the south- east, two of which are built of brick, and one of stone. In the rear of the centre church stands the State House. Further on, are the NEW YORK AND NEW HAVEN RAILROAU. 31 Yale College buildings ; and these, taken in connection with the surrounding scenery, the churches, and the State Houco, form a gi'oup not often equalled in this country. Yale College is one of the most ancient and celebrated institutions of learning in America. It was founded in 1701. There are four college halls, each four stories high, and each containing thirty-two rooms for students ; and another devoted to the use of theological students. Besides these, there are two other buildings, called the Athenaeum and the Lyceum, appropriated to recitation and lecturss, and several smaller edifices. New Haven has many subordinate seminaries, both male and female, of high reputation. In 1842, there were twenty-five select schools and seminaries ; and it may be safely estimated that as many as 2500 pupils receive instruction here every year. Considerable attention is paid to the manufacturing interest in New Haven. Her mechanics have long been distinguished for industry and intelligence. There are two societies for the promo- tion of the useful arts, and the encouragement of merit, both of which have small libraries. Across Quinnipiak River, on the east, stands the village of Fair- haven, a place which owes most of its prosperity to the oyster trade. Large quantities of these shell-fish are taken at the mouth of the Quinnipiak and Mill Rivers, both of which fall into New Ka,ven bay. New Haven is the terminus of the New York and New Haven Raili'oad. The station at this place is built directly over the track, which renders the lower part dark and unpleasant. The rooms above, however, are elegant and commodious. The building is quite an ornament to the city. 32 NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. NEW HAVEN, HARTFOKD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. This road is sixty-one miles in length, extending from New Haven to Springfield, Massachusetts. Beginning at New Haven, it follows up the Quinnipiak River to the summit at Meriden, thence it descends to a branch of Little River, which it follows to Hartford. From Hartford to Springfield, the line is located along the banks of the Connecticut River. The grades, as far as Hartford, are very- irregular, there being many planes of three or four hundred feet each, varying from level to thirty-eight feet per mile inclination. The whole distance, however, is frequently run in one hour, the road being comparatively straight, and the curves easy. This road is kept in perfect repair, and managed with great wisdom and judg- ment. Although it was one of the very first roads completed in New England, very few accidents have ever occurred upon it. From Hartford to Springfield, the grades are easy, and the road straight. There is no inclination of more than twenty feet per mile, and that only for a very short distance. Immediately after leaving the station at New Haven, the cars pass under nine bridges, all of which serve to carry the streets of the city over the track. This is considered a highly advantageous arrangement, serving to render accidents to the citizens of rare occur- rence. Crossing the mouth of Mill River, the first object which catches the eye of the traveller is East Rock, situated a little north of the line. This rock is about five hundred feet high. It is principally trap rock, composed of hornblende and feldspar. Iron enters consider- ably into their composition; hence, during their decomposition, iron-rust gradually covers the exterior of the stone, giving it a reddish-brown appearance. The front is composed of a vast assem- NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 33 blage of columns, more or less regular, and full of cracks and fissures, from which cause it gradually crumbles away. A vast View of East Rock. pile of debris and broken rock covers more than one half of the entire front face. Many of the broken pieces are large, and vast quantities of the rock are used every year in building. West Kock is entirely similar to this elevation, only perhaps not quite so high. There is a place upon the top of West Eock, called " Judge's Cave," celebrated as having been the place of retreat of the Regicides, in 1661. Both of these hills are easy of ascent from the back sides ; and the view from the front is highly picturesque. Following up the Quinnipiak River, the traveller will not fail to notice the extensive and beautiful meadows on the right, both sides of the river. These meadows produce large quantities of gi-ass, which is mowed and stacked up on the ground until winter, when it is removed. The appearance of these stacks, in the fall of the year, is very enchanting. A large part of this meadow is saU ; but some portions are protected by means of dikes, and there the grass is fresh, and of a better quality. North Haven, eighty-three miles, was set off from New Haven, . 3 34 NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. in 1786. This town is celebrated as having been the residence of Dr. Benjamin Trumbull, the historian of Connecticut. For more than fifty years he resided here as pastor, and died 1820, aged 85. He was universally beloved. Leaving North Haven, the line crosses a barren, sandy plain, more than four miles in length. It is said to be the most sterile tract of land in the state. In other parts adjacent the soil is ex- cellent. Wallingford, eighty-eight miles. Near this station, on the Quinnipiak River, there is a large manufactory of wood-screws, of which more than a thousand gross are daily turned off. The main village is one mile from the station, upon the brow of a hill. It can be seen for some distance, as the cars pass by. The main street is over one mile in length. Lyman Hall, one of the signers of the Declaration of Indepen- dence, was a native of this town. He graduated at Yale College, in 1747, went to G-eorgia, and established himself there as a physician. He took an early and decided part in defence of colonial rights, and was chosen a delegate to the General Congress, in 1775. Dr. Hall was afterwards governor of Greorgia. He died in 1790. The Hakginq Hills, from near Meridbn. NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 35 Near Wallingford station, the traveller will get a view of the Hanging Hills, a series of abrupt elevations, near Meriden, on the north. These peaks rise, one after another, in regular order, like a series of waves. They seem to bear to the south-west, at which point their faces are the most abrupt. Some years since, a road was constructed through a narrow and romantic glen, in these hills, from Meriden to Berlin. This pass is more than a mile in extent, and in some places there is but barely room for a path. It is called the Cat Hole. The sides and summits of these hills are fre- quently resorted to, during the summer, by pleasure parties. Continuing up the line, we pass Yalesville, across the river, noted for its Britannia wares ; and, after passing a very abrupt cut- ting in red sand-stone at Holt's Hill, reach Sand-stone Cutting near Meriden. Meriden, ninety-four miles. This station is exactly half way between Hartford and New Haven. Meriden is one of the most enterprising and flourishing manufacturing towns in the state. The main village stands upon an eminence, half a mile south of the sta- 36 NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD, tion, and the view of it, as the cars leave, is highly picturesque. Since the completion of the railroad, quite a cluster of buildings has sprung up around the station, and probably this will become the principal village, before many years. The chief articles of manu- facture are augers and auger-bits, combs, tin-ware, rakes, door- latches, and block-tin spoons. There are also two iron foundries here. One mile beyond this station is the highest point upon the road, being elevated 166^ feet above tide water at New Haven. A short distance beyond this, the line passes a precipitous hill upon the right, which is situated in Berlin, and about two miles distant. Its front shows much the same appearance as the Hanging Hills just Berlin, one hundred and one miles. All the trains, both ways, stop at this station ; it being the junction of the branch to JMiddle- town. Upon this branch the cars run to connect with each out- ward and inward train. Berlin is a large town, and contains several villages, of which New Britain, situated in the northern part, is the largest. Worth- ington, two miles from this station, is noted as being the place where the manufacture of tin ware was first attempted in this coun- try. About the year 1740, Mr. Wm. Patterson, a native of Ire- land, came to this country and settled in Worthington. Being a tinner by trade, he commenced manufacturing the ware, at first, moderately. He was obliged, at the outset, to peddle his own wares about the neighboring villages. At length, the value of his manufactures becoming known, he was enabled to use teams ; hence the glistening, rattling, tin pedlar's wagon, a sight so common now that a noted writer declared that it was ' ' impossible to travel fifty miles in New England without meeting as many of these non- descript carriages, half of which have sheep-skins dangling behind ; the remainder, sacks of white and brown rags!" However this may be, it is certain that the manufacture of tin is now more ex- tensive than of almost any other article of household use. NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 37 New Britain, one hundred and four miles. The village is sit- uated one mile north of the station. It has several manufactories, principally of brass works, which employ about one thousand per- sons ; three churches, and a population of over two thousand. Three miles beyond this station, the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill road approaches upon the north, and hence to Hartford both tracks are parallel, forming simply a double way. At this point, also, the line strikes Little River, which it follows down to IIautford Station. Hartford, one hundred and eleven and one half miles. Here is one of the prettiest stations in New England, at once neat, com- modious, and well arranged inside, and an ornament to the city. This station is used by the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill com- pany, for the trains upon their road, which is already completed to Bristol on the west and Willimantic (the junction of the New London and Palmer Railroad) on the east. The compact part of the city of Hartford, built mostly upon the main street, which extends from north to south, about sixty rods from Connecticut River, is more than a mile in leno-th. The ground rises gradually from the river, and on the west becomes 38 NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. considerably elevated. On many of the streets there are pleasant locations, and handsome dwellings. Little Kiver furnishes some considerable water-power. Schooners, and other vessels of light draught, come up the Connecticut River as far as Hartford ; and, during the summer, steamboats connect the city with New York. Above Hartford, flat-bottomed boats can navigate the river for two hundred miles. Formerly, great numbers of these boats passed up and down the stream, though the completion of the railroad has sadly thinned them off. Indeed, the boating business may be said to have entirely ceased. Among the public buildings and institutions at Hartford, which we notice, is the State House, a spacious and handsome edifice. It stands upon the public square, fronting Main street, surrounded by an iron railing, and ornamented with trees. The Legislature holds its sessions here, meeting at Hartford and New Haven on alternate years — the odd years at Hartford. The City Hall is a large and commodious building, fronting on Market street. Trinity College has an elevated and commanding position in the west part of the city. It was founded in 1824. There are two large edifices, and a library connected with the institution of seven thousand volumes. The American Asylum for the Instruction of the Deaf and Dumb was the first establishment of the kind in the United States. It was opened in 1817. It has spacious buildings upon a hill west of the city, with several acres of land attached. The main building can be seen on the west, immediately after leaving Hartford. The Re- treat for the Insane is on a commanding eminence, a mile and a quarter south of the State House; opened in 1824. The building is of stone, covered with cement. The famous "Charter Oak" stands in Charter street, at the south part of Main street. The cavity where the charter was con- cealed has closed up long since, and the venerable tree bids fair to outlive the present century. Windsor, one hundred and eighteen miles, was the first town in Connecticut m which an English settlement was made. The first NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 39 house erected was at the mouth of Farmington River, in 1633. Farmington River passes through the town falling into the Connect- icut half a mile east of the station. View at Windsor Locks. Three miles beyond Windsor the tra\eller will see the Connecti- cut River upon the left. The soil of the meadows, at this point, is rather light and sandy, caused partly by the overflowing of the stream at high water. As we ascend, however, the bottom lands are equal to any in the New England States. Windsor Locks, one hundred and twenty-three miles and a half. This is a small village, near the outlet of the Enfield Falls Canal. Enfield Falls, so called, are about six miles in extent. There is a gradual falling of the river for this whole distance, the fall at no time amounting to a cascade ; and, the bottom, being rocky and the current strong at low water, it was found difficult to ascend and descend in boats with safety. A canal was accordingly constructed along the west bank of the river, beginning six miles above the locks. A fall of about ten or twelve feet is thus created at the lower end of the canal, which is now improved ; a paper-mill, saw-mill, and other manufactories being built here. A set of locks enables loaded boats to fall to the surface of the river at the outlet of the canal. The cars now wind alone the banks of the canal for some distance, 40 NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. and then cross the Connecticut upon a splendidly-built bridge, a quarter of a mile in length, resting upon a series of stone piers, and high above the water. The view from this bridge, up and down the stream, is sublime, and rarely equalled. A few years ago, during a windy tempestuous night, the western end of this bridge was blown away, and was impassable for some time afterwards. The vigilance of the overseer of this structure only prevented a night train from running off into the river. Since then, besides being strengthened at various points, a strong guard has been erected the whole length of the bridge upon both sides of the track, which renders the passage perfectly secure. Warehouse Point, one hundred and twenty-five miles. This station is at the east end of the bridge just noticed, one mile north of a large village of the same name, in the town of East Windsor. This is the head of sloop navigation in the Connecticut River. View at Warehouse Point. Thompsonville, one hundred and twenty-nine miles. This village is in the town of Enfield. It is a place of considerable im- portance in the manufacture of carpetings. One mile and a half beyond this station the road crosses the state line, dividing Massachusetts from Connecticut. Longmeadow, one hundred and thirty-three miles, the first sta- tion in Massachusetts upon this road. The town was named from %. Willi 42 NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. the extensive meadows here found, upon the banks of the river. The inhabitants, generally, are engaged in agricultural pursuits. The soil is deep and rich, and at harvest time the appearance of the crops on the meadows is enchanting in the highest degree. Springfield Station. Springfield, one hundred and thirty-six miles and a half, is, in all respects, a most important town. Here the railroads from the four points of the compass meet under one gigantic roof, covering the largest railroad passenger station in the United States. On the west, the Western Eailroad extends to Albany, two hundred and one miles ; on the east, the same line (with the Worcester, which it joins at that place) reaches Boston, ninety-nine miles. This latter route, with the New Haven and Hartford roads, now form the only land route between New York and Boston, over which the travel is immense, especially during the winter months. At Springfield the various trains generally arrive at nearly the same hour ; the noise, clatter and confusion at such periods surpassing all description. The village of Springfield, large enough to become a city, only the people won't have it so, is beautifully situated upon the east bank of the Connecticut River ; the main street, which is over three NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, AND SPRINGFIELD RAILROAD. 43 miles in length, running parallel with it. East of this, the land rises with a gradual slope ; on which, overlooking the town and river, are many handsome dwellings. The United States Armory stands on this high ground, half a mile from the main street. The buildings are of brick, neatly arranged around a square. From the cupola of one of them there is a delightful view of the surrounding country. Travellers should, by all means, visit this place ; even a delay of one or two days at this charming village will not be lost. Springfield, from time immemorial, has been celebrated for its fine hotels. No country village in America can compare with this one in that respect. This may sound extravagant^ nevertheless it is true. As the cars stop here a sufficient length of time to allow the passengers to dine, just step into the Massasoit House, (seen near the station in the cut,) incomparably the best hotel in New England, out of Boston, and take dinner, even if you do not pro- pose a longer stop at Springfield. Or, if you prefer stopping nearer the centre of the village, take a coach to Warriner's Union House, about half a mile south of the station. If the verdict is not unani- mous as to the aforesaid "opinion," we will voluntarily surrender all claims to be considered a judge in such matters hereafter. Warriner's Usios Hotel. 44 CONNECTICUT EIVER RAILROAD. CONNECTICUT RIVER RAILROAD. This road, fifty miles in length, begins at Springfield, and fol- lows along the Connecticut valley to South Vernon, where it joins the Vermont and Massachusetts road. It was opened to North- ampton in 1845, and to Grreenfield in 1846. The course of the road is very direct, and the grades easy, there being no inclination over thirty-two feet per mile. The cost of the whole road and equipment has been $1,801,592. Cabot Junction, one hundred and thirty-nine miles and three quarters. From this point a branch has been constructed to Cabot- ville and Chicopee, a distance of two miles. Both are manufac- turing villages, and both are upon the Chicopee River. Cabot- ville, the larger of the two, is but a short distance from the junction. Here, besides several cotton-mills, are the sword, cannon, and cut- lery works of the Ames Company. This is the only place in the country where any considerable business is carried on in the man- ufacture of swords ; the whole process, from the forging of the blade to the most exquisite finish, being done within the establish- ment. Chicopee Falls, two miles further up the stream, has several important manufactories of cotton, paper, pistols, iron castings, &c. &c. WiLLiMANSETT, One hundred and forty-three miles. This is a small village in the northern part of Springfield. Here the cars cross the Connecticut upon a covered bridge ; and a short distance beyond is HoLYOKE, one hundred and forty-four miles. This is now one of the largest and most prosperous places in the old Bay State. It has sprung up as if by magic. In 1846 it was a small parish in West Springfield, called Ireland. Now the traveller will see CONNECTICUT RIVER RAILROAD. 45 splendid blocks of brick buildings, large factories, and every indiea tion of a first-class town around him. The station is near the centre of the village, a small hill standing between it and the river. A few years since, a company commenced building a dam upoL. the Connecticut, at this place, with a view to improve the immense water-power here. After many months' labor, it was completed. A day was appointed to fill it. Thousands flocked to witness the operations from all quarters. The gates were closed, and the immense basin above gradually filled up. But ere long the great weight resting against the dam began to settle its centre down stream, and fears were entertained that the structure could not stand. These fears proved well grounded. When within three or four feet of the top, the whole structure gave way, with a terrible crash, and was swept down the stream by the imprisoned waters. Not a vestige of it remained. Luckily, many hundreds of people, who had for some time previous been standing upon the dam, were warned away before the accident, so that no lives were lost. Not discouraged by this sad mishap, the company at once went on with a second structure, which now stands, creating, probably, more water-power than can be found at any other place in the state. The cars, after leaving the Holyoke station, pass within a few rods of this splendid structure, over which falls a smooth sheet of water the whole river's breadth. For some distance above this place the track is laid directly upon the river's brink, being the worst portion of the road to build. The hills, for several miles, shut down close to the water, and considerable rock-cutting was necessary to save many objectionable curves. The prospect, as you pass along, is highly interesting. Smith's Ferry, one hundred and forty-nine miles. At this sta- tion there is no village. The cars stop here to leave passengers for South Hadley, on the east side of the river. Leaving this place, the face of the country becomes more level. You seem to have passed between two mountains into a vast plain CONNECTICUT RIVER RAILROAD. 47 On your right, Mount Holyoke lifts its lofty summit ; on your left is Mount Tom, close to the line. Just above, you cross what is now an island, partly surrounded by a cove of stagnant water. This cove was once the bed of the Connecticut River, During a freshet, several years ago, the water broke over the neck of a peninsula formed here by a bend in the stream, and made a new channel, saving a circuit for boats navigating the river of over two miles. FINE view of the outlines of Mount Hol- yoke and Mount Tom is had by looking south from near the Northampton station. One would hardly judge, from the ap- pearance of these hills, that the broad Connecticut was quietly flowing between them. Northampton, one hundred and fifty-three miles, is delightfully situated up a gentle elevation, about a mile from the river. It is surrounded upon all sides with large tracts of fertile meadows, and, during the summer season, presents one of the richest prospects to be found in New England. Across the river, there is another large I / 48 CONNECTICUT RIVER RAILROAD. tract, enclosed by hills, upon which stand the rich and thriving towns of Hadley and Amherst. On the south-east the noble Mount Holyoke rises boldly to view. Upon the summit of this elevation, overlooking the whole valley of the Connecticut for miles, north and south, the lover of nature will get a prospect not often found. The height of the mountain is about 1200 feet. Leaving Northampton, the line makes its greatest detour from the river, which is not seen again for twenty miles. At the next station it is four miles distant. Hatfield, one hundred and fifty-eight miles. The station here is three miles from the village, which lies upon the river. The sur- face of this town is level, and its meadows exceedingly rich and extensive. Large quantities of broom-corn are grown in the town. Haydensville, situated in the south-western part, is a thriving vil- lage, and has some manufactories. From Hatfield to South Deerfield, a distance of nearly seven miles, the line is perfectly straight. From the rear of the cars, looking directly back, the summit of Mount Tom appears in the dis- tance, standino; like a huo;e barrier across the road. Whately, one hundred and sixty-two and a half miles, another town noted for its great abundance of broom-corn. There are two principal villages in the town. East and West Whately, standing one upon each side, and about equi-distant from the station. Two miles north of the west village is Mount Esher, a bluflf rising abruptly nearly a thousand feet. From the summit of this hill a fine view of the surrounding country is to be obtained. South Deerfield, one hundred and sixty-five miles, situated at the southern boundary of Deerfield, and Deerfield, one hundred and sixty-nine miles. This is one of the oldest towns in the state, having been settled in 1 670. Both villages are beautifully situated, the streets being shaded by a great number of stately elms. On the right, as you pass along, rises first Sugar-loaf, a conical peak of red sandstone, and then Deerfield mountain. A huge gulf lies between them. CONNECTICUT RIVER RAILROAD. 49 Deerfield is a place of great interest to Americans. In this vicinity were fought many sanguinary battles between the whites and the Indians. At Bloody Brook, near the South Deerfield station, is a monument erected to the memory of Capt. Thomas Latbrop and eighty-four men under his command, who were butchered by the savages, in 1675. They were conveying stores to Hatfield, and had stopped to gather grapes. A band of seven hundred Indians attacked them, seized their arms, which had been impru- dently left, and then butchered nearly the whole of Capt. Lothrop's company. Deerfield was burnt by the Indians in 1704. During the skir- mish, the house of Capt. John Shelden was attacked, and a hole was cut in the door by the savages. Within a few years, this venerable old relic of antiquity has been torn down, and its place is now filled by a new dwelling-house. Why not sell the monument at Bloody Brook, and with its materials help to construct some neighbor's cellar-wall ? It certainly has no beauty, aside from the fact that it marks a spot sacred in the memory of every American breast. We well remember the anxiety manifested by stage-pas- sengers, when passing Deerfield, many years ago, to see the old house. It was worth while to stop and walk around this remnant of antiquity. But modern improvements have swept it away, and with it has departed the glory of old Deerfield. Two miles beyond this station, the cars pass the mouth of Deer- field River, upon a high bridge. At its northern extremity, the Vermont and Massachusetts Railroad approaches through a gorge in the hills, and hence to Greenfield is close to the line, and runs parallel with it. The distance to Boston from this point is about one hundred and six miles. Greenfield, one hundred and seventy-two miles. This is a beautiful village, situated upon an elevated plain on the margin of Green River, and surrounded by a fine intervale. The view of the place from the south, as it is approached, is surpassingly fine. Most of the villages upon the banks of the Connecticut are 50 CONNECTICUT RIVER RAILROAD. celebrated for their neatness and rural simplicity. There in nothing like the grandeur of the Hudson river prospect aboul them. There are very few costly, or rich, or extensive villas, such as we may frequently see upon the borders of that stream. Yet there is a gratifying appearance about them all, which striken the eye of the traveller with admiration and delight. Leaving this station, the cars pass under one of the main streets, and commence a considerable rise, making likewise another detour from the river. Bernardston, one hundred and seventy-nine miles. This is a large town, exclusively devoted to agriculture. The village lies upon Fall River, which unites with the Connecticut near Green- field. The line now passes over an uneven country, to SorxH Verson Junction. South Vernon, one hundred and eighty-six miles, the first town in Vermont, the termination of the Connecticut River Rail- road, and the cars pass to the VERMONT AND MASSACHUSETTS RAILROAD. 51 VERMONT AND MASSACHUSETTS RAILROAD. This road begins at Fitchburg, Mass., and extends to Brattle- boro', Vt., ten miles from the junction at South Vernon. It also has a branch from Grout's Corner to Greenfield. At South Vernon the Ashuelot Railroad, extending to Keene, twenty-three miles, branches off, crossing the Connecticut, and following up the valley of the Ashuelot River the whole distance. This road is operated by the Connecticut River Company. Vernon, one hundred and ninety-one miles. The surface of this town is very uneven and hilly. In the west part, large quan- tities of roofing-slate are wrought. The road, for a long distance through the village, passes on high ground, affording many fine views of the river below. Brattleboro', one hundred and ninety-six miles. This is one of the most thriving towns in Vermont, noted for its invigorating air, pure water, and fine mountain scenery. Just east of the station, across the river, Chesterfield Mountain rises abruptly to the height of nearly a thousand feet. The main village stands a few rods west of the station, placed upon an elevated plain, overlooking the river. AVhetstone Brook furnishes some water-power near its junction with the Connecticut. Here the cars enter upon the VERMONT VALLEY RAILROAD, Extending from Brattleboro' to Bellows' Falls, a distance of twenty-four miles. This road is constructed along the banks of the Connecticut River, in no place being half a mile distant from it, 52 VERMONT VALLEY RAILROAD. and for the greater portion of the distance within a few rods of the water. Hence the river views are very frequent and very beauti- ful. The water is hemmed in on both sides by abrupt hills, often shutting in close to the shore. During the summer season, when these are clothed with green, the ride over this road is a perfect treat, and never to be forgotten. Some portions of the valley road were very difficult to build, in consequence of the rugged nature of the country. Yet it was com- pleted in less than two years ; and is one of the best constructed, best managed, and important roads in the Northern States. DuMMERSTON, two hundred and one miles, was one of the earliest settled places in Vermont. Fort Dummer, which was in Brattleboro', was founded in 1625. This place was much troubled by the Indians for many years after its settlement. The town is hilly ; watered on the north by West River. Several smaller streams fall into the Connecticut, along its eastern boundary. Putney, two hundred and five miles, is the next station. The village is quite pleasantly situated, surrounded on all sides by pre- cipitous hills. Sacket's Brook, which falls some eighty feet, fur- nishes considerable water-power. The traveller will notice the meadows and intervales at the mouths of the small streams, as the cars pass along. Many of them are overflowed by the spring and fall freshets. At such times, when these lowlands are covered with water, they appear like large lakes, with numerous islands here and there. Three miles above this station are the Great Putney Meadows, more than two miles in leno;th, and half a mile across. Here the line is the o-reatest dis- tance from the river. Westminster, two hundred and fifteen miles. This village stands upon a plain half a mile south-west of the station. Across the river, about half a mile, is Walpole station, on the Cheshire Railroad. Beyond, upon an elevated plain, is the village of VERMONT VALLEY RAILROAD. 53 Walpole, neatly laid out, and prettily built. Four miles further, and we are at Bellows' Falls, two hundred and twenty miles. Every trav- eller should stop at this romantic village at least one day. The village is compactly built, standing upon the west bank of the river, and surrounded on all sides by abrupt hills. No place upon this route possesses so many natural attractions as Bellows' Falls. The Falls are a series of rapids in the Connecticut, extending about a mile along the base of a high and precipitous hill, known as Fall Mountain^ which skirts the river on the New Hamp- shire side. Within this distance the river falls about fifty feet, though in no place is the descent perpendicular to any considerable extent. A canal was constructed round these falls, on the Ver- mont side, with locks, about the beginning of the present century, at an expense of fifty thousand dollars, for the passage of boats and rafts of timber, but the great river line of railroads now completed has nearly ruined this property. Nevertheless, the water-power belonging to the company is daily increasing in value ; and a little liberality on tliC part of the owners would tend to make this one of the most important manufacturing places in New England. At the bridge which crosses the river at this village, the visiter can stand directly over the boiling flood, viewed from whence, the whole scene is wild and exciting in the extreme. The river is here compressed into a narrow, rocky pass, at low water, so that it appears almost as though you could leap it. The water, which is at all times one dense mass of foam, rushes through this chasm with such velocity, that, in striking the rocks below, the spray is forced back upon it for a considerable distance. In the spring, when the high water brings down the ice from the river above, the view from this bridge is grand and terrific. At such times the water is driven over the eastern channel also, where there is a per- pandicular fall of twenty feet, very fine. This channel is dry at low water. The middle pier of the bridge stands upon a ledge of rocks between the two. 54 VERMONT VALLEY RAILROAD. Bellows' Falls was formerly frequented by the Indians, for the purpose of salmon fishing. Before any dams were constructed below this point in the river, salmon were caught here in great numbers. They rarely ascended above these falls. Just below the bridge, on the west side of the river, is a large flat rock, upon which a large number of rude faces are to be seen, having been cut by the Indians, jjerhaps centuries ago. They can be reached without difficulty, and are well worth notice. The stranger who wishes to carry away a distinct impression of this vicinity should not fail to ascend Fall Mountain, across the river. From the summit of this elevation there is a most charm- ing prospect. Ladies can reach the summit, even on foot, without fatigue. No guide is needed, as there is a good path the whole distance. Island House, Bellows' Falls. The Island House, recently erected in this village for the accommodation of the travelling public, is a fine edifice, built with all the modern conveniences, and with especial reference to the 56 THE SULLIVAN KAILROAD. comfort of strangers. The house stands upon the highest point of the island, within a few rods of the station, overlooking the falls, the river, and the village. Four railroads terminate at Bellows' Falls : the Cheshire, form- ing a part of the line to Boston ; the Rutland, extending to Bur- linf^ton; the Vermont Valley Boad from Brattleboro', and the Sullivan, which is a part of the Connecticut Biver line, running to Windsor. The station is upon the island, near the falls. Besides the hio-hway bridge, there are two railroad, bridges across the river at this place, both beautiful structures, the whole being within a quarter of a mile of each other. THE SULLIVAN KAILROAD Extends from Bellows' Falls to "Windsor, Vermont, and, with the exception of a short distance at the latter place, lies wholly in the state of New Hampshire. This road is twenty-five miles in length, is well built, and has a very even grade, running, for the most part, along a level country upon the east bank of the Connect- icut. At Windsor village, it crosses the river, and connects with the Vermont Central Boad. South Charlestown, two hundred and twenty-four miles, a small village in the south part of Charlestown. The Butland road follows the Connecticut to this point, upon the west side. The traveller will now notice a ravine up which that road follows the course of Williams' Biver. Charlestown, two hundred and twenty-eight miles. This is a pretty village, standing upon a plain, some distance from the river. The main street is very broad and straight, and lined with fine shade trees. A bridge connects this place with Springfield, Ver- mont. THE SULLIVAN RAILROAD. 57 NoKTU Charlestown, two hundred and thirty-three miles. Here is another small village, situated upon a small stream, which affords a little water power. Claremont, two hundred and thirty-seven miles and a half. This station is about two miles from the large and flourishing vil- lage of the same name. It stands upon Sugar River, which falls over one hundred feet within a distance of one mile, affording an immense water power, which is considerably improved. There are several cotton and woollen mills here, besides paper mills, saw mills, tanneries and furnaces. Iron and limestone are found in this town. A stage runs regularly to the village from every upward and downward train. 1 1 ^""-^ Sugar River Bridge. Soon after leaving Claremont, the line crosses over Sugar River, upon a bridge one hundred feet above the water. Ascutney Moun- tain soon appears upon the west. This mountain is a detached peak, rising about 3250 feet, just south of Windsor village, from whence it may be ascended. The cars now cross the Connecticut upon a 58 THE SULLIVAN RAILROAD. well built bridge, which brings you to the termination of the Sul- livan Railroad, at Windsor Village and Ascctney Mountain. Windsor, two hundred and forty-five and a half miles. This is the shire town of Windsor county. The village is a large and handsome one, situated at the base of Ascutney Mountain, on the north-east side. Mill River, which falls into the Connecticut, a short distance below the village, affords some water power for light machinery. Windsor has three churches, a court-house, &:c. The Vermont State Prison is situated at Windsor. The Windsor House, a large and elegant hotel, stands directly in the centre of the village. It is kept by Mr. J. H. Simonds. Travellers stopping over at Windsor will find every desirable attention at this hotel. THE VERMONT CENTRAL RAILROAD. 59 THE VERMONT CENTRAL RAILROAD Commences at Windsor, and follows the west bank of the Con- necticut to White River Junction. Here it strikes up White River, crosses the Green Mountains at Northfield, and follows down the Onion River to Burlington. Passengers over the Con- necticut River route only pass over the road as far as White River Junction. Hartland, two hundred and fifty miles. The station here is at some distance from the village. The line for the whole distance to White River follows the river banks very closely^ rarely being out of sight of it. North Hartland, two hundred and fifty-four miles. Here ia a small village, the last station before reaching .<*- .^,t *i '^^- White River Junction. White River Junction, two hundred and sixty-one miles. This village is opposite West Lebanon, N. H., having been built 60 CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC RIVERS RAILROAD. up since the completion of the several railroads centring here. A large hotel has recently been erected for the accommodation of passengers who stop here to dine. Four lines of railroad connect at this station, viz., the Northern, from the east ; the Passumpsic from the north ; the Central from the west, and the Central from the south. The business incident upon this connection must eventually make this an important place. Here the traveller enters upon the CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC RIVEES RAILROAD. This road forms that part of the ''Valley Railroad Line" which lies north of White River Junction. It is wholly within the State of Vermont — the Connecticut River forming the boundary between Vermont and New Hampshire. Its course is nearly due north, following the valley of the Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers, and it is now completed as far as St. Johnsbury, sixty miles from White River Junction. Its ultimate destination is the Canadian line, connecting with the railway avenues to Montreal and Quebec. At the village of Wells River, forty miles north of White River Junction, it will receive the White Mountains Railroad, now in course of construction. Regular lines of coaches from this railroad, at St. Johnsbury and Wells River, leave for the White Mountains and for Franconia, during the summer season, for pleasure travel. The Passumpsic Railroad passes some fifteen business villages, situated on both sides of the river, between White River Junction and St. Johnsbury, and runs much of the way through the broad alluvial meadows, which, during the spring freshets, are overflowed by the waters of Connecticut River, resembling an extended lake. CONNECTICUT AND PASSDMPSIC RIVERS RAILROAD. 61 The scenery for the entire length of the road is surpassingly fine ; similar to what we see in descending Lake Charaplain from Ticonderoga to Burlington. This likeness is not surprising, since, according to geologists, the Connecticut intervales were once a chain of lakes. Several bluffs resemble the sites of castles on the Rhine, where it is most castellated, as between Mayence and Bonn. As we go up this road, the view on the left is far the most hidden because the road huo-s the base of hills, while that on the right is obstructed by only four bridges, and seldom cut off even for a moment by woods, or cuttings, or hills. Leaving the White River Junction, where this road connects with the Northern, N. H., and the Vermont Central roads, we cross White River, the largest stream in eastern Vermont. We soon see a dam over the Connecticut, and traces of the canal which was more than forty years ago dug on its opposite shore round rapids that obstructed navigation. Rafts of lumber are usually waiting to pass through the locks. Yet the river's occupa- tion, as to transporting manufactured lumber, will soon be gone. Railroad competition has already lowered the canal tolls one half. Grazing high ledges on the left, and crossing Blood Brook, — so named from an Indian massacre on its banks, — we arrive at Norwich and Hanover, two hundred sixty-five and a half miles. Norwich and Hanover, like all the villages on this route, save two, stand on table land, elevated about two hundred feet above the river ; they reach about half a mile from its bank. Norwich University, situated on the beautiful plain, girdled with maple- crested hills, was incorporated in 1834. Its students, who are called cadets, and the current year number sixty, dress in uniform and drill an hour daily. In the vicinity is the tomb of a former President, Colonel Ransom, who fell at the storming of Chepul- tepec. There is also here a school for young ladies. In the hill burial ground is the grave of Zerah Colburn, the precocious mathematical genius. Hanover, with a population of 2,352, is chiefly known as the 6 62 CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC RIVERS RAILROAD. seat of Dartmouth College, chartered in 1769, and surpassed in age by only seven institutions in the United States. Its students the present year are 273, of whom 52 attend medical lectures. The corps of instruction are a President (Rev. Dr. Lord) and fifteen Professors. The founder of the institution, that was at first intended chiefly for educating Indians, was Rev. Dr. Wheelock. Among the 3,000 alumni are Choate and Webster. The libraries amount to 22,475 volumes, and each of the six buildings is worth looking at. A little east rises a barren ridge, bristling with whitish rocks, and nicknamed the President's Garden. Near it stands a nondescript octagonal store-house, an architectural whim of one of the professors. Dartmouth is just now rejoicing in a bequest of $50,000, from the late Abiel Chandler, Esq., an old bachelor. Leaving Norwich, and passing several bush-fringed islands, we turn one of the sharpest curves in all this road, (1,146 feet,) and open upon a noble river-reach, flashing like a mammoth mirror. The highlands, that, where we set out, shut down to the shore, gradually recede right and left now. Ompompanoosuc Station, two hundred and seventy-one miles This station takes its name from the river we have just crossed. This Indian name means abounding in onions, and was doubtless given to the stream by the aborigines from those rank-scented esculents flourishing along its banks. The depot is larger than we expect where there is no village, partly because, on the arrival of the first up train, a stage leaves this station for Union Village, (on the line between Norwich and Thetford,) as well as for Strafford, but chiefly because about 5,000 tons of copperas, from the richest mine in the world, are here annually freighted for Boston. This mine, lying seven miles up the valley that runs among the hills on our left, is worth going to see, for other reasons besides its being the only one in our Union which is now worked. While digging for the foundation of this depot the skeleton of an Indian was dis- CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC RIVERS RAILROAD. 63 covered ; and in former years other aboriginal relics had been exhumed in the vicinity. When we have glanced up several river vistas between avenues of trees, we espy Lyme village on our right and back from the river. The white church tower, a wood in the background, and southward a hill side checkered with trees, are the most noteworthy objects. TiiETFORD AND Lyme, two hundred and seventy-five miles and a half. The depot is near a covered bridge, for a road over the Connect- icut, which leads to the village of Lyme, one and a half miles distant. Thetford Hill boasts an Academy that has reached a high pitch of popularity, and a magnificent prospect stretching down the Con- necticut to Mount Ascutney, near Windsor. Here Dr. Burton, one of the most original of Vermont theologians, was pastor for more than half a century. North Thetford, two hundred and seventy-eight miles, is near a bridge over the Connecticut, as well as a quarry of building stone and of roofing slate. As we proceed, Mount Cuba, so called, bounds our view on the right. It is still a haunt for bears, and at least one man was in danger from a bear there in 1850. It is said to stand where four towns meet, namely, Lyme, Orford, Wentworth and Dorchester. The second peak to the left of Cuba, a conical half wooded hill, is called Sunday Mountain. Next, we survey the charming Orford intervals, and then the village of Orford drawn out along The Ridge, — a natural terrace a mile long, almost every house on which looks forth like a villa bosomed high in tufted trees. Fairlee and Orford, two hundred and eighty-three miles, is near Fairlee meeting-house, Orford village, and a cliff anciently called Coney Mountain, but now Association Bock, having been so named by several ministers of the Orange Association, who ascended it in company. It is crescent-shaped, and at first view not to be scaled in front, yet, on scrutinizing it, we shall see in its centre a stairway half hidden in bushes, climbing among which, wg can 01 CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC RIVEllS RAILROAD. safely reach the grove on the summit. Here we can roll rocks down the face of the precipice, or lie in the shade and feast our eyes on a better view than is often to be earned by so little walking. Starting again, we glide beneath the brow of Association Kock, and, passing the Orford soap-stone quarry, see before us, on the left, Sawyer's Mountain, and on the right an overlapping New Hamp- shire highland, which withdraw one from another, like folding doors, as we approach. After going through this natural gateway, a grand river avenue breaks upon us, and then Piermont village appears, with its gray church in the distance on the right. Near this point the Moosehilloch "upheaves its huge bare back emergent," and for nearly twenty miles remains the grandest object of attention. This peak is the highest in New Hampshire out of the White Mountain range, and commands in some respects a better prospect than even Mount Washington. Its elevation is 4,636 feet. A land-slide stripes its side with red in summer, and in winter is styled " The church in the mountain^^'' as at that season it resembles the profile of a white church drawn on the back side of the mountain. This peak may be easily ascended by an excursion from Newbury. Bradford, two hundred and eighty-nine miles. Here still sur- vives the first maker of geological globes in America, now an octo- genarian. The prospects are such, that, if the natives wish to see good scenery, they will stay at home. Almost as soon as we leave this village, Haverhill Corner comes in view. It has four spires and one fine brick block. Behind it rise the gray Sugar Loaf, and Black Hill. In the foreground begin those broad meadows, which the Connecticut overflows so often and so extensively as to merit the name of the Nile of New England. Traversing the lower intervale, we see a continuous line of farm- houses along the edge of the first land-table that rises on our left. The acclivity from the river to Haverhill is rent with gorges, and the cemetery north of that village is built round a massive and CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIO RIVEKS RAILROAD. 65 antique powder-house. The meanders or links of the river, as it sweeps between double lines of trees, are picturesque. Newbury, two hundred and ninety-seven miles. An omnibus leaves for Haverhill Corner, on the arrival of the first train up. Near the station-house, to the north-east, are the Sulphur Springs. The waters resemble those of Harrowgate, in England, and have long enjoyed great local fame as a specific for all cutaneous affections. The visitors are year by year more numerous, but are well accommodated in the spacious hotels, and the well-ordered bathing establishment. There is more intervale, or what the Ger- mans call Golden Meadoiu, in this town than in any other in the state. The Grreat Oxbow, containing almost five hundred acres, spreads its lake-like expanse just north of the village. On this queen of meadows the Indians had settlements, relics of which have been often found. Here also was the site of the first white settlement north of Charlestown, and this point remained our northern frontier throughout the revolution. Emerging from the first wood after leaving Newbury, we see on the right a brick house, which stands on the great Oxbow, — the best image of a western prairie, which New England affords. In addition to Owl's Head, Sugar Loaf, and Moosehillock, — an array magnificently stern, — we now behold the Franconia range, most of the year either cloud-capped or white with snow. Nothing but this Franconia chain now hides from our eyes the White Moun- tains. At Ingall's Hill is the heaviest rock cuttinoj on this road, where stone enough was blasted out to build eight such monuments as that on Bunker Hill, though all of them were solid. Wells River, three hundred and one miles. This is one of the prettiest villages upon the line, and a great depot for lumber. Stages leave this place daily for Franconia and the White Mountains. The village is hemmed in by hills, so that it cannot be seen to advantage from the cars. As we cross the mouth of Wells River 66 CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC FvIVERS RAILROAD. on a high embankment, we have a transient view of the church, hotels, bank, &c. Just above this village the line passes the Hog's Bach, a hill cut through for the railroad. A little beyond, the Connecticut River is compressed by the encroaching hills into a width of about one hundred feet. Ryegate, three hundred and six miles. This town was a Scotch colony, planted just before our revolution. Its scenery has points of resemblance to the Scotch hio-hlands. The Scotchmen long retained many national peculiarities, but are now in the main Yankeefied. McIndoe's Falls, three hundred and ten miles. It is just beyond the bridge, which, according to tradition, the first riverman crossed scot-free, spite of the toll-gate keeper, since he evaded the law by riding on the back of his comrade. This depot, as well as all the others, until we reach St. Johnsbury, is in the town of Barnet. Passing Baird's Falls, we reach Barnet Station, three hundred and thirteen miles. The village is high above the station, and has two woollen factories. The water which propels their machinery falls one hundred and eight feet, in sight of the depot. Stages leave this station, on the arrival of the first train of cars, for Lancaster and Littleton, and also for Peacham. A mile or two further up, we go through a rock cut forty feet deep, and, by a wild, romantic gorge, leave the Connecti- cut for the Passumpsic. At the mouth of the Passumpsic is an archipelago of twenty-one islands, some of which are woody, others rocky, and one, namely. Round Island, is believed by many to be the spot where, in the French war, Rogers rallied his half starved rangers, on their return from exterminating a village of the St. Francis Indians. Although the railroad quits the Connecticut, it keeps its original northerly course, while the Connecticut comes down from the east. In ascending the Passumpsic, that winds like an anaconda through the meadows, we cross it eight times. CONNECTICUT AND PASSUMPSIC RIVERS RAILROAD. 67 McLeran's Falls, three hundred and fifteen miles. It stands among hills that seem to have been rent asunder by some convul sion of nature. Gliding over several small meadows, we arrive at Passumpsic, three hundred and nineteen miles. The name is Indian, and means rich in medicine. Here is a fall of twenty-four feet, and an incipient viDage. St. Johxsbury Station. St. Johnsbury, three hundred and twenty-two miles from New York, is the present terminus of the line. The village is delight- fully situated, and much diversified, the central street extending nearly a mile in length, upon an elevated plain, with several inter- secting and parallel streets, embracing the manufacturing establish- ments upon the Passumpsic and Sleeper's Rivers, on the east and west of the plain. Here are two elegant churches, neat Grrecian structures, nearly new ; an academy, bank, printing-office, several spacious stores, hotels, and various mechanics' shops. Near "the Plain," on Sleeper's River, is the extensive 68 ST. JOHNSBURY. lishment of Messrs. E. & T. Fairbanks & Co., which gives employ- ment to about two hundred workmen. Here are made every variety and modification of scales which are used in the mercantile world, from the ponderous weigh lock scale, which registers, with unerring precision, the weight of the largest canal boat, down to the small counter scale of the merchant. Here are in progress, at the same time, railroad track scales, depot scales, coal scales, grain scales, hay scales, warehouse scales, and all the variety of platform scales for stores and manufactories, which, when completed and subjected to severe tests, are securely packed for transportation to every part of the world. The JoH^SBURY House, situated in the cen- ^^ tre of the village, midway between the churches, is one of the largest and best hotels in the state, and affords a pleas- ant home for the traveller. The surrounding country aflfords many delightful rides, and from several elevated points, near the village, picturesque and extended views are obtained, especially at "Pumpkin Hill," about three miles distant, where the visitor obtains a distinct and sublime view of Mount Washington, Moose Hillock, Mount Lafayette, and the whole range of the White Mountains. From St. Johnsbury, during the season for pleasure travel, there ST. JOHNSBURY. 69 are daily lines of stages to the Crawford House, at the Notch of the White Mountains, and also to Willoughbj Lake, and extra coaches are kept for select parties. From St. Johnsbury the distance i? a little over twenty miles to Willoughby Lake, one of the most attractive localities in northern New England. The White Mocntaixs from Pcmpkin Hill. The lake is beautifully situated between two mountains, which rise abruptly to the height of two thousand feet on the east side, and fourteen hundred feet on the west. From the summit of Mount Pisgah, on the east, is spread out before the eye a prospect scarcely less extended and enchanting than that exhibited to the view of the Hebrew lawgiver from the top of ancient Pisgah. It embraces, on the north and north-west. Lake Memphremagog, Owl's Head, and the plains of Stanstead, reaching far down into Canada. On the east, the entire range of the White Mountains, and on the south and south-west, the valley of the Passumpsic, and the Green Mountain range. The lake abounds with fish, particularly the muscolung, a 70 LAKE WILLOUGHBY. species of large trout, wliile the numerous streams and ponds in the vicinity are filled with the common mountain trout. Upon the lake, midway between the mountains, the reverberation of sound is magical ; as many as six distinct echoes being returned from a bugle played at the same point. ERY near the southern extremity of this beautiful sheet of water, a new and com- modious hotel will be opened by the middle of June, and a pleasure-boat con- ~-^' 2=^-^ structed. A small observatory will be erected upon the summit of Mount Pisgah, at the same time, and a carriage-road from thence to the hotel, by a circuit of three miles. The stage-road between Willoughby Lake and St. Johnsbury is good, not hilly, but undulating, affording a specimen of the diversi- fied scenery of Vermont. The stages from Willoughby Lake to St. Johnsbury will connect, daily, with the cars at that place, and with the line of stages thence to the White Mountains ; and measures have been taken to secure travellers by these lines from imposition. THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 71 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. These hills, the highest land in the United States, with the single exception of the Rocky Mountains, lie directly in the centre of Coos County, the northern part of New Hampshire. They are seven in number, and seem to be only a cluster of mountains, rather than a chain. They are surrounded on all sides, at their bases, by a dense forest. Of course, the best view of their gigantic greatness is had from their summits. Next to this they are seen to good advantage from some elevated station at a distance, where the outlines of the whole group can be scanned at a glance. The view from Pumpkin Hill, near St. Johnsbury, before noticed, is very fine. They can be seen, also, from Moose Hillock, and, in fact, from almost any elevated summit in their neighborhood. Mount "Washington is the highest of the group, the summit being elevated 6243 feet above the sea, — nearly a mile and a quarter. Then comes Mount Adams, the most northerly peak, 5759 feet ; Mount Jefferson, situated between the first two, 5657 feet ; Mount Madison, the eastern peak, 5415 feet; Mount Monroe, the first •south of Mount Washington, 5349 feet ; Mount Franklin, the next south of this, 4850 feet ; and Mount Pleasant, the last and most southern of the group, 4715 feet. Thus on the north and south, and east sides, it will be seen that Mount Washington is surrounded by hills of less height, itself being the culminating point of the whole group. The ascent to the summits of these mountains, though fatiguing, is not dangerous ; and the stranger never regrets his labor. Per- haps the greatest difficulty will be to fix upon a time when the summits are not enveloped in clouds. There are several points 72 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. from which the summit of Mount Washington can be reached, at either of which guides are to be obtained at all times. The Notch House, or Crawford's, kept by Maj. J. L. Gibb, is the largest house in the region of the White Mountains. It stands at the very entrance of "the Notch," and commands a splendid view of this renowned and picturesque gorge, as well as the vast panorama of highlands which constitute the White Mountain cluster. For the extent, variety, and grandeur of the mountain scenery in this vicinity, its location is unrivalled. This house is entirely new, and has been constructed and furnished expressly for the accommo- dation of the pleasure travel during the summer months. Especial attention has been paid to the construction of apartments for families and parties. Well-trained horses are kept here for the use of vis- itors who wish to ascend Mount Washington, and carriages are always in readiness to convey parties to the Willey House, Mount Willard, and other places of interest in this romantic neighbor- hood. Visitors from New York are ticketed directly through to Crawford's. By purchasing through tickets, travellers will avoid all fear of imposition at the upper part of the route, the stages being run under the direction of the railroad officers. The Mount Washington House, or Fahyan^s, is four miles further on up the mountain valley. This hotel is two hundred feet in length, and two stories high, with ample out-houses adjoining. The Lafayette House, in Franconia, near the Franconia Notch, so called, is a fine hotel, kept by L. W. Cobleigh, Esq. It is situated close to the celebrated " Old Man of the Mountain, ^^ and Echo Lake, twenty-six miles from Crawford's. Although at some distance from the summit of Mount AVashington, the place is much visited, in consequence of its splendid scenery and fine air. Mount Lafayette is easily ascended, and the prospect from its sum- mit is beautiful. Crossing this mountain, you pass over the east pin- nacle of Mount Monroe, and soon find yourself on a plain of some ex- tent at the foot of Mount Washington. Here is a fine resting-place, on the margin of a beautiful sheet of water, of an oval form, covering THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 73 three fourths of an acre. Directly before you the phinacle of Mount Washington rises with majestic grandeur, elevated about 1500 feet above the plain, and presenting a variety of colors and forms. The view from this point is grand and picturesque. Innumerable mountains, lakes, ponds, rivers, towns, and villages meet the eye, and in the distance may be seen the waters of the Atlantic stretch- ing along the dim horizon. To the north is seen the lofty sum- mits of Adams and Jefferson ; and to the east, a little detached from the range, stands Mount Madison. During two thirds of the year the summits of these mountains are covered with snow and ice, giving them a bright and dazzling appearance. The following excellent account of the " Ascent of Mount Washington," we extract from a description by the Rev. J. S. C. Abbot : — " After passing the Notch of the White Mountains, the traveller enters upon a plain, through which meanders the Ammonoosuc River, as it hastens onward to unite its waters with the floods of the Connecticut. As you ride along this pleasant road, the valley, open in the west, is fringed on the north and the south by high hills, while behind you rise the majestic summits of the mountain range you have just passed. For four miles you ride along much of the way under the shade of overhanging trees, meeting with no house, and no signs of human life, except the road over which you are travelling. A turn in the road suddenly opens to you a beautiful scene. In the midst of a smooth and verdant meadow appears the spacious hotel of Mr. Fabyan. The magnitude of this establish- ment, and the nice table which he spreads, seem to make his house the fashionable place of resort, though it is far less favorably situ- ated, in respect to scenery, than the house of Thomas Crawford, at the Notch. As you sit under the piazza, at Fabyan's, you see a range of high hills, covered with forest, running along the border of the valley, upon the north and the south, — the spurs or abut- 7 74 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. ments of the White Mountains, which, at the distance of about ten miles, rear their majestic summits into the clouds. " The next morning after our arrival at Fabyan's, we prepared to ascend Mount Washington. The scene of departure is a very interesting one. Immediately after breakfast, the horses were found, all saddled, standing by the side of the piazza, and the gentlemen and ladies, in a great variety of costume, were selecting their steeds for the mountain ride. Our party consisted of thirteen, — three ladies, nine gentlemen, and a guide with a knapsack con- taining provisions for our picnic upon the summit. All the com- pany in the house were assembled to witness the departure. The whole scene was one of unusual animation and hilarity. Soon, all were mounted, and, starting off at a brisk trot, we rode along the road for about a mile and a half. Then, striking into a little bridle- path, just wide enough for one horse, and entirely overarched with trees, we trotted along in single file, now ascending, and again de- scending ; now riding along the banks of a rushing mountain-stream, and again fording the torrent, with the water nearly to the saddle- girths, — occasionally emerging into some little opening, where mountain torrents had swept away the trees, and immediately again plunging into the gloom of the eternal forest. The road, generally following the meandering banks of the Ammonoosuc Kiyer, — here a foaming mountain torrent, — was smooth, and easy for the feet of the horses, so that our long cavalcade, one behind the other, proceeded very briskly on its way, enlivening the passing hours with conversation, and jokes, and fragments of song. A ride of six miles, over this delightful valley road, brought us to the foot of Mount Washington ; and now we commenced the arduous ascent. The path is as steep as a horse can climb, and winds wildly about among rocks, and stumps, and prostrate trees, and over ledges and crags where one would hardly think that a horse's foot could possibly stand. The horses toil, panting up the steep sides of the mountains, stopping, as I observed by my watch, every two minutes, to breathe. As I rode in the rear of the party, THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 75 it was truly a picturesque sight to watch the long procession wind- ing its way among the crags above my head. We often passed springs of crystal water, gushing from the rocks ; and at one, in particular, about a third of the way up the mountain, called the ' Moss Spring,' and where there chanced to be a level spot of per- haps two rods square, the whole party dismounted for ten minutes, to refresli the horses, and to refresh themselves with water as pure as mortal man can drink. *' We were soon again on our way, and the forest trees, which had towered so loftily above our heads, rapidly dwindled in size, till they became but one or two feet in height, and spread their gnarled and scraggy branches over the ground. We soon rose above this stunted vegetation, and the horses climbed from rock to rock over the bald face of the mountain ; and there was revealed below us a wild and solitary world of sombre forests, and mountain ranges furrowed by avalanches, and peaks rising on every side, and torrents, now visible by a silvery foam leaping down some rocky bed, and again only by a long line in the forest, showing the path it had cut through the trees. The precipitous ascent now became at times rather fearful, and one could not but shudder, as he looked down into the gloomy gulfs below him, at the thought of the conse- quence of one misstep by his horse. When we had arrived within about half a mile of the summit of the mountain, we came to a dilapidated stone hut, without door or roof, and here we left the horses, though adventurous persons do sometimes keep upon their backs, and climb over these precipitous and crumbling masses of granite, to the very top of the mountain. We^ however, found the last half mile as arduous an undertaking as we were willing to ad- venture, even on foot. Climbing slowly, in Indian file, among the huge blocks of stone, which are piled together in all imaginable confusion, we soon stood upon the summit. There is something awful in the aspect of the dark, crushed, storm-worn crags which compose the brow of this mountain-monarch. No life is seen here ; no sounds are heard but the rush of the storm and the roar of the 76 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. thunder. A scene of wildness and desolation is spread around, which is indescribable, but which arouses in the soul the highest emotions of sublimity. An ocean of mountains is outspread in every direction. Dark and gloomy gulfs, thousands of feet in depth, are opened before you. In the almost boundless expanse of dreariness and desolation, hardly a vestige of human habitation can be seen. The soul is oppressed with a sense of loneliness, soli- tude, and omnipotent power. It is the mount of meditation. It is the altar for spiritual sacrifice and prayer. The majesty of God and the insignificance of man stand in such strons; contrast that the meditative soul is overwhelmed with gratitude and adoration. '' We spent an hour upon the summit. It was the middle of July. At a short distance from us were seen several acres of snow. Spreading our refreshments upon a flat rock, we partook of our repast, and at four o'clock we were greeted by our friends, at Fabyan's, as we dismounted at his door. " The question is often asked, Is it wise for ladies to undertake the ascent ? My advice is this : If a lady is in feeble health, or of very nervous temperament, she will find herself far more com- fortable to remain in her rocking-chair, at Fabyan's. But if a lady is in ordinary health, and has the least love of adventure, or the least susceptibility to emotions of the sublime, let her by no means forego the pleasure of the enterprise. Every hour will be fraught with luxury, and the remembrance will be a source of joy while life shall last." The Notch of the White Mountains is a very nan'ow defile, ex- tending for two miles between huge cliffs, apparently rent asunder by some vast convulsion of nature. The entrance of the chasm, on the east side, is formed by two rocks, standing perpendicularly, about twenty feet from each other. The road from Portland to Lancaster, on the Connecticut River, passes through this notch, followinof the course of the head stream of the Saco River. A o short distance from the commencement of the chasm is a beautiful THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 77 cascade, issuing from a mountain on the right, and passing over a series of rocks almost perpendicular, with a course so little broken as to preserve the appearance of a uniform current. This stream, one of the most beautiful in the world, falls over a stupendous precipice, forming the Silver Cascade. About a mile distant from the Notch is the Flume, a stream of water falling over three precipices, from a height of two hundred and fifty feet. It falls over the first two in a single stream, and over the last in three. These are again united, at the bottom, in a natural basin formed in the rocks. The Projile ^fountain is about three miles south from Mount Lafayette, and rises to the height of about one thousand feet. It is near the road leading from Franconia, by the foot of the Haystack Mountain, to Plymouth and Concord. The bare rock on which the profile is delineated is granite. From its long exposure to the atmosphere, it is, however, of a dark reddish-brown. A side-view of this projecting rock, near the peak of the mountain, in a northern direction, exhibits the profile of the human face, in which every line and feature is distinctly marked. But after pass- ing the mountain, to the south, the likeness is immediately lost. The Willey House stands in the Notch, on the westerly side of the road, a short distance from the bluff, which rises to the height of about two thousand feet. This was formerly occupied by Cap- tain Willey, who, with his wife, five children, and two men, was destroyed, on the 28th of August, 1826, by an avalanche, or slide, from the mountain. ** Nearly in range of the house, a slide, from the extreme point of the westerly hill, came down, in a deep mass, to within about five rods of the dwelling, where its course appears to have been checked by a large block of granite, which backed the rolling mass for a moment, until it separated into two streams, one of which rushed down to the north end of the house, crushing the barn, and spreading itself over the meadow ; the other passing down on the south side, and swallowing up the unfortunate beings, who, proba- 7# 78 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. bly, attempted to fly to a shelter, which, it is said, had been erected a few rods distant. This shelter was completely overwhelmed. Kocks, weighing from ten to fifty tons, being scattered in every direction about the place, rendered escape impossible. The house remained untouched, though large stones and trunks of trees made fearful approaches to its walls ; and the moving mass, which sepa- rated behind the building, again united in its front ! The house alone, the only spot untouched by the crumbling and consuming power of the storm, could have been their refuge from the horrible uproar around." A large, three-storied hotel, painted white, now occupies the site of the Willey House ; yet this curiosity has been preserved, and forms part of the establishment. The White Mountains are surrounded on all sides with objects and curiosities worthy of the attention of one who travels for pleasure. But, after all, his success in being pleased will depend upon the spirit with which he starts upon his tour. To one who sets out and travels as many miles a day as he possibly can, by steam and horse- power; who leaves his business at home with doubtful assistance, and who is hurrying back for fear something may be wrong at home ; to such an one, no rural scenes can bring rest or recreation. The travel- ler must bring to the dense forests of the country, — to the still and quiet scenes of rural life, a mind and body free from care, or his search for enjoyment will be oftentimes in vain. It is a matter of surprise that a visit to the White Mountains on foot is not oftener attempted. Of coui'se, when ladies are of the party, the thing is quite out of the question. In Europe such journeys are very common. Indeed, a larger portion of travellers through Switzerland go on foot, after riding by rail to the neighbor- hood. A walk of twelve or fifteen miles per day fatigues one but very little, and then there is ample time to have some sort of an idea of the beauty of rural haunts, which, in other cases, is sadly curtailed by the speed at which they are often passed. THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 79 Albert Smith, the author of various popular works in England, is perhaps one of the most famous pedestrians now living. lie has been over most of the continent of JEurope, and frequently on foot. The following description of his " outfit" may not be uninteresting here, in case these foot excursions should ever become fashionable in America. One, at least, will try the experiment the present year_, and "report thereon " " I may now, perhaps, interest some of my readers in detailing the time which I myself took ; and I will also add — I believe on a novel plan — the expenses and the distances of each day. " I must premise I started with a companion, and we each had a knapsack to carry our things. This latter article was made for me by Mr. Brown, saddler, of Chertsey, and cost £1. It was four inches deep, thirteen broad, and twelve long. A round tin case at the top was added afterwards. It was in three portions, for bet- ter dividing the articles it contained, and one of these could turn, upon emergency, into a sort of saucepan, to go over a spirit lamp which went inside it. It was at times useful for furnishing hot water, when there would otherwise have been a difficulty in pro- curing it. " I contrived to put the following articles into my knapsack. It was tolerably heavy when charged, but I am blessed with broad shoulders and a good constitution, and I never felt distressed : — " A coat, waistcoat, and trowsers, of thin black tweed, which were very light, and, when folded up, could have been put in a hat. These were for such occasions as might occur, when something like evening dress was necessary. They were made for me at a small expense. " A pair of light French hrodequins. * ' Five shirts ; four colored and one white — also for great occa- sions. " Four pocket handkerchiefs. •* Two black silk neck-ties. 80 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. " Four pairs of lamb's-wool socks. "Comb and brush; with some oil-silk bags for holding soap, sponge, nail and tooth-brush. "A 'house-wife,' containing pins, needles and thread, scissors and buttons. " (These latter articles went in the pocket at the side of the knapsack, for ready use.) " In the tin case at the top I had a strange collection of things. They comprised a few seidlitz powders, some laudanum, and a box of Brokedon's compressed soda. I also tucked in some sticking- plaster, a dozen steel pens, a portable ink-stand, with writing paper, a box of water-colors, note-books, string, lucifers, and other minor comforts. When all these things were packed, there was still room for what few souvenirs I might collect on the way. " My travelling-dress was a blue blouse with useful pockets, and a broad-brimmed felt hat. I started in a cap, but the sun so caught my face on the Moselle, that I bought the hat at Metz. I had a stout pair of shoes — not too thick, which is a great mistake ; and a kind of pouch to hang at my side, and hold a hand-book or map, block drawing-book, knife, &c. "The great advantage of a knapsack — and I speak from the experience of several tours made with one — is, that you are so completely your own master. You are dependent upon no porters, mules, or conveyances ; you come and go as you please, and you have always got all you have about you. Your expenses are also considerably diminished. The above list may be altered, accord- ing to the views of the tourist, but I do not think he will be able to improve it, so as to increase his comfort." WM. GUILD & CO., 120 WASmNGTON STREET, BOSTON, AND 135 NASSAU STREET, NEW YORK, rUBLISH THE FOLLOWING EAILROAD CHARTS: NUMBER I. BOSTON TO ALBANY. NUMBER II. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Each of the above is complete in itself, and profusely illustrated with wood engravings of the principal Villages, Bridges, Cuttings, Stations, and other objects of interest upon the route ; all of which are taken from nature. A chart of the entire line upon a scale of one inch to a mile, is given, showing every road or river crossing, the stations, the inclinations of the track, and a great variety of other information of interest to the traveller or those interested in these steam thoroughfares. PRICE 25 CENTS EACH. D:^ Enclose 30 cents in postage stamps, and a copy of the above will be SENT TO ANY ADDRESS, POST FAID. NUMBER III. HUDSON RIVER &. THE HUDSON RIVER R. ROAD. Containing a Map of Hudson River and vicinity, upwards of six feet in length, neatly folded, so as to be examined without opening. The Map is upon a scale of half an inch to a mile, and shows the exact plan of the River, and the location of the Railroad. It is accompanied by fifty pages of letter press, giving a full and comprehensive description of the River and Railroad, illustrated with a great number of wood engravings of the principal objects of interest to the traveller upon that route. PRICE 25 CENTS. Enclose 30 cents in postage stamps, and a copy of the above work will be SENT TO ANY ADDRESS, POST PAID. NUMBER IV. NEW YORK AND THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. With a complete map, and wood-cut views of the principal objects of interest upon the line. PRICE 25 CENTS. V^ Other numbers are in preparation. ^