»r«* ^ "V '*Ni *•' >* V "•? .*. *^ .* » A •-'•' a° j V-. 1 *LlrL? *> *; /°<* &* c* * ;* ^o * 2£ ^d* V > ' • _•* O. <* ." v^ 5* o '*' r ..*••. '• . » * .0 r° o'^i"*^, o y %*^»L.* v f u ^ -o» • °°,. * W *o' *~ *;?^v ^* 3*. • % ^"V '.«BV ^ ;• *v ^ o^^\K/ .^ ^ VMS** x V v ♦ v> 1 • °* C^ >* .^>, % EUROPEAN GUIDE PRACTICAL EUROPEAN GUIDE PREPARATION, COST, ROUTES, SIGHT- SEEING BY M. D. FRAZAR FOR EIGHTEEN YEARS IN THE TOURIST BUSINESS BOSTON HERBERT B. TURNER & CO. 1907 Copyright, 1907 By HERBERT B. TURNER & CO. All rights reserved Published March, 1907 [U8HARY of CONGRESS Two Cooies Received 6 1907 i yi. Copyright Entry . cAss A XXC.NO. 'copy u Press o/ Geo. H. Mis Co. Boston, Mass. INTRODUCTION. The idea, still prevalent among many people, that only the favored few can enjoy the pleasure and edification of European travel, is quite a mis- taken one. Not many years ago a trip abroad was a supreme luxury. To the average man or woman the hope of seeing Venice was little more than a fanciful dream. We spoke of the " Eternal City" without the idea that we might some day look upon it from the Summit of the Janiculum Hill. We knew of Paris as the Capital of the Cosmopolitan World, but a stroll on the boule- vards was not within our reach, as it is to-day. For the eager demand which has developed among all classes of our citizens for a chance to visit the "Old World" has resulted in the achievement of conditions that now allow any one to plan for a journey to Europe as easily as for a trip to Cali- fornia or a season at a seaside or mountain re- sort, and with possibilities of economies in ex- pense which will bring the cost within the limits of a very modest income. The American people are exceptionally able to absorb and appreciate what they find in foreign lands, and it is impossible to overestimate the benefits which accrue to them and to our country from the familiar association with European iii INTRODUCTION scenes and life gained by travel. It is from these sources that we are reaping a bountiful harvest of good results in all lines of progress and refine- ment. Our business men bring back practical ideas and open new markets for our industries. Teachers find new inspiration in becoming familiar with scenes that were merely visionary until they wandered through them. Artists not only bring back upon their canvases their expression of the lands and life which have impressed them, but are awakened to higher ideals by the atmosphere of the glorious galleries in all the principal Euro- pean cities. Our scientists are stimulated by observing the wonderful work which is being done in all the great universities, and gain broader visions from the comparison of our conditions with those of other environments. Social condi- tions may be improved by the study of what older countries have accomplished, and our business institutions may benefit from some infusion of the conservatism which is an essential feature of European methods. And it must be remembered that all these forces operate to a greater or less ex- tent upon the ordinary individual who seeks and finds self -development by European travel. With intelligent observation he returns mentally broad- ened and deepened, quickened for new effort and achievement, and with a store of rich memories iv INTRODUCTION from which he will draw an unfailing dividend of pleasure to the end of life. When it is suggested that Americans take too much money out of the country each year to leave in Europe, it is well to remember what equivalent it returns to us. We need just what the money buys, — a knowledge of other people and other methods, a broadening of thought, the experience of seeing how the world moves and what keeps it progressing, and, best of all, a realizing sense of how great our own new country is in its lofty ideas of right and justice, its zeal in good works, and its rare prosperity for the masses. Our system of education encourages a taste for reading which develops individual culture, so that a constant preparation for travel — the real school of culture — is going on. It is well, there- fore, that every aid should be given to all who may contemplate a trip abroad, and that it may be seen hoiv easily such a journey can be managed with a little care. It is my aim in this book to give some practical and useful hints in regard to foreign travel, — hints that I hope may be really useful, and many of which will aim to supply necessary information not found in any of the many guide- books which compete for the prospective traveller's attention. In essaying to give helpful information, I have INTRODUCTION found it necessary to specify with approval certain transportation companies, foreign agencies, hotels, and other business institutions. These have been selected from my personal knowledge of their re- liability gained through my long experience in European travel, and are recommended solely for the benefit of the prospective traveller. In no case has any such name been inserted for any pecuniary consideration either to myself or to the publishers of this book. M. D. F. VI CONTENTS. PAGE Introduction iii Chapter I. How to Travel 1 II. Steamship Lines and the Voyage . . 16 III. The Arrival in Europe 34 IV. Some Attractive Routes 61 V. European Railway Fares 103 VI. What to See 130 VII. Guide Books 148 VIII. Hotels. Rates 166 IX. Final Suggestions 177 Chapter I. HOW TO TRAVEL. To travel well is indeed an art, and yet it is one that may be easily mastered. It is only necessary to take things as they come, to put one's self in touch and sympathy with all people, not to expect all the little conveniences of home, to appreciate the point of view of those about one, and to be cheerful under all circumstances. One must cultivate the ability to see quickly, to grasp new ideas readily, and to take rapid and truthful impressions from what is seen. As good health enters largely into the question of enjoy- ment in travel, care should be taken to observe regular hours for the table, to eat good and sub- stantial food, and to pay attention to what one drinks. Alive to the importance of pure water, all European cities utilize the best supply within their reach. There is, of course, in rapid travel a con- stant change in the drinking water, and this dis- agrees with some persons. The light acid wines of Europe are excellent, and, if one wishes to use only a little wine with the water, the bottle is marked with the owner's name and replaced on the table at subsequent meals. At all the first- class hotels special spring waters are used for 1 EUROPEAN GUIDE the table. Very good mineral waters are always to be obtained at hotels, pensions, or restaurants, and at all railway stations where there is a cafe or dining-room. Care should be taken in regard to drinking too freely of ice water, if the weather is very hot, but that is a danger well understood in our own country. Special Preparatory Study. However much unconscious preparation for travel may have been gained by general reading, there should be some special study related to the itinerary decided upon. A carefully selected list of helpful books is given on page 150, and the most satisfactory manner in which to take up the special study desired will be by first care- fully selecting the route of the journey and look- ing up the points of interest which most appeal to one in each place to be visited. Under the headings of the various cities and towns specified in this volume (pp. 130 to 146) will be found tab- ulated lists of the points of interest in each place, arranged in such order as to be most easily visited in the day's travel. In this preliminary study a note-book is an invaluable aid. In it the name of each place to be visited should be written at the top of a EUROPEAN GUIDE page, under which special memoranda regarding the place should be jotted down as they occur to one or are met with in the reading of news- papers, magazines, or books. Do not neglect to set down in the proper place any brief quota- tion which may help in fixing an idea or in re- calling any especially notable person or event. Several blank pages should be left after the pre- liminary notes on each city, to be filled with notes of observations made during the journey, thus making the book valuable for after reference. What to Take. A great deal depends upon the character of the journey. In arranging an outfit for the voyage and for travel abroad, if one goes by an expensive steamship line and uses the highest- class hotels, ladies will require an elaborate wardrobe, which will include evening gowns. Evening dress for gentlemen is so generally the custom in all European cities that it is advisable for a man to keep it constantly at hand. Upon the first-class lines of ships all persons dress for dinner, and more attention is being paid to this important function of the day upon all lines. Good taste will make it easy to de- cide when a simple fresh gown for a woman 3 EUROPEAN GUIDE and a plain dark suit for a man will be suffi- cient for dinner, both on shipboard and on the shore. Start upon the journey well provided with all the wardrobe required, as it takes valuable time in Europe to find what is satisfactory. If one wishes a reasonable outfit for three months of travel, the following hints may be useful: — For the steamer a woman should have, in a large-sized dress-suit case, a cloth suit of medium weight, a flannel waist, a silk waist, and two shirt-waists, three changes of underclothing of such weight as one is accustomed to wear in the autumn, a pair of woollen tights,, a wool sweater, a hot-water bottle, and a cloth or silk bag for holding books, magazines, or fancy work for the deck. In addition to this she should take a travelling- rug or heavy shawl, a rain coat, a soft hat of felt or wool, a pillow for the deck chair, and a warm wrap. A hand-bag should contain bath slippers, rubbers, sewing-bag, and toilet articles, includ- ing small bottles of camphor and simple cologne, which are sometimes very refreshing. For the steamer a man should have in a large bag a suit that would be comfortable in the au- tumn, a heavy overcoat, cloth cap, rug, pillow for deck chair, and two sets of warm under- 4 EUROPEAN GUIDE clothes. In a hand-bag he may carry slippers, toilet articles, including a bottle of camphor. In specifying these articles, I have endeavored to suggest everything needed for reasonable com- fort during an ocean trip of from seven to fifteen days. Each individual can easily decide whether to eliminate or add to any of the items. For travel after reaching Europe a woman should have a medium-sized steamer trunk, to hold one street suit in addition to the one worn when leaving the ship, one extra skirt, five shirt- waists, two silk waists, two pretty gowns for din- ner and evening wear, four changes of linen, evening shoes, extra walking shoes, a pair of boots, a bath robe, a box fastened in one corner of the trunk for an extra hat, in which may also be placed laces, gloves, handkerchiefs, and neck- wear. For land travel for gentlemen a small steamer trunk should hold an extra suit for the street, a plain black cutaway or frock coat, with vest and trousers, a dress suit, three sets of underclothing, three sets of pajamas, and a bath robe, together with socks, collars, cuffs, and shirts, as desired. There is no difficulty about laundry in Europe, and, while it is done in some countries better than in others, little time is required anywhere, and the cost is about as it is here. EUROPEAN GUIDE If one wishes to make an inexpensive trip, instead of using the steamer trunk for travel on shore, so plan that a light-weight dress-suit case may hold enough for the journey, thus reducing all expense for the transportation of baggage by railway. When a steamer trunk is used in travel, it is perfectly convenient to have it always with one, but, in the event of making a little side-trip for one or two days, the hand-bag for the toilet arti- cles will also hold night clothing. Do not use any labels or tags for the baggage that will send it to the ship's hold unless there are very large trunks. Such labels are either marked "Hold" or "Not Wanted." On trunks stowed in the hold there is apt to be delay at the port of landing, and one is unable to get at the contents during the voyage. If the baggage is marked " State-room " or "Wanted," it will be placed in the state-room, provided it is not too large to slide under the lower berth. If too large for the state-room, it will be put in a baggage- room, where it can at any time be opened. Storage and Transfer of Steamer Baggage. The baggage with the outfit for the steamer may be stored with the company of the line EUROPEAN GUIDE of ships by which one sails. It also can be forwarded to another port and held for the return. If one is to return by the same line from the same port, the keys need not be left with it; but, if this baggage is to be forwarded to another country, the keys must be tagged with the name, date, steamship, and port, exactly in duplicate of the tag on the baggage, and left with the purser of the ship. When it is decided on what ship one will return, notice must be sent to the company having the baggage in charge, telling them to forward it with the keys. Always state that keys were left and tagged like the baggage, as this will aid the company in finding both. State plainly the ship, line, port, and date of sailing for which baggage is required, and write to said company to send notification of its arri- val, so that it may be looked up if there is un- necessary delay. If one is to return by the same line, send notice three weeks in advance to have it put on board the desired ship, and ask for a postal reply ac- knowledging the receipt of the order. It is best to follow this up by another "reminder," in the shape of a postal, a few days before the sailing date. The purser on either ship line will have EUROPEAN GUIDE the account of expenses, and settlement may be made with him. Sea-sickness. It is difficult to lay down rules in regard to this disagreeable affliction. Some persons suffer from it in spite of every precaution, and others who violate all laws relative to it go entirely free. There can be no doubt that much of it is brought on by anticipation and by getting the stomach out of order when trying to prevent it. For a few days before sailing, one should avoid sweets, fats, and soups, eating easily digested substantial food. Three days in advance of sailing some simple laxative should be taken to cleanse the bowels and stimulate the liver. Some persons find it refreshing to have a little fruit brought by the stewardess to eat before trying to dress in the morning. The main thing is to get on deck as quickly as possible, not attempting an elaborate toilet, and to remain in the steamer chair till all feeling of dizziness passes off. The deck steward will serve from the menu whatever seems to tempt the appetite, and only the most simple food should be selected. If really ill, take bits of ice (over which a little EUROPEAN GUIDE brandy may be poured), oranges, apples, grapes, or delicate biscuits. Keep on deck, allow the wind to blow freely on the face, keep warm (using the hot-water bottle, if necessary), and the attack should soon pass away. As soon as possible, begin to walk about the deck (to get your sea legs on, as old sailors say), for this not only accustoms one to the mo- tion of the ship, but causes the blood to circulate freely again. Money. American money may be used on all ships for fees, care being taken to have a good supply of small change. Small sums of American money may be changed on shipboard by the purser, but it is a good idea to have before sailing $10 in change of the money used in the country where one is to land. Money-changers and large banks can supply this, but, if one is unable to attend to it before sailing, he may rely upon the purser of the ship. Those who are to buy railway tickets upon arrival at a port, and so require a large sum of money, should take some English bank-notes of £5 each ($25) or some English gold. Get this money through a banker or Money Exchange Office. 9 EUROPEAN GUIDE If a considerable sum of money is to be used on the journey, take a Letter of Credit, through either the American Express Company or some prominent bank that has wide connections with bankers abroad. Messrs. Brown, Shipley & Company and Messrs. Baring Brothers are two London banking houses, with correspondents all over Europe, who do a very large business in this line. It is a great inconvenience to have a Letter of Credit that calls for the drawing of money through bankers not well known in the cities of Europe. Much delay is often caused the traveller through the inexperience of such banking houses with the business methods they call for. The Letter of Credit gives one the advantage of having money in absolutely safe form. More than one person may draw upon a letter of credit if so arranged at the time of purchase. Two duplicate signatures are demanded, one to re- main with the home banking house and the other to be sent abroad to the chief bankers through whom business will be done. A full list of bankers in Europe where money may be drawn is appended to the letter form, with a blank page where the sums drawn, the dates, and the names of the several bankers trans- acting the business are carefully filled in. The 10 EUROPEAN GUIDE Letter of Credit is usually given in pounds ster- ling. A Letter of Credit is not issued for less than £100 ($500), and a charge of 1 per cent, is made at the time of purchase. Business men who have deposits with banks in close connection with foreign bankers may take a Letter of Credit on a Letter of Credit account, which account they open by setting aside such a sum from their deposits as will cover the drafts they may wish to draw, and in this event they only pay a commission on the actual drafts, thus saving the charge on any balance left undrawn in the Letter of Credit account. Upon the return home the Letter of Credit is presented to the firm that issued it, and any sum still due is refunded. On very large Letters of Credit, fully paid, running for some months, in- terest will be allowed by the bankers in the United States who receive the deposit. In addition to the Letter of Credit it is well to take a few American Express Cheques for $10 and $20, as they may be very convenient upon occasions when banking houses are closed on holidays. If less than $500 will be needed abroad, take all money in the form of American Express Cheques for $10 and $20. They are convenient and safe, 11 EUROPEAN GUIDE and may be cashed in hotels, pensions, money exchanges, banking houses, and many shops. They indicate on the face the sums for which they are good in each country. It must be noted, however, that there is sometimes a revenue stamp demanded that reduces by a few cents the sum stated as due on the cheque. American bills and gold are easily exchanged at banks and money exchanges and at the regular rates of exchange for the day they are presented, but, if they are lost, there is nothing to be done, while the American Express Company will re- issue cheques upon proof that they are lost. A very careful system of numbering and keeping records of every cheque, and a strict watch for forgery, allows the company to fully protect its patrons. When the cheques are purchased, the signature is written in the upper left-hand space, and each cheque has to be so signed in presence of a com- pany or agent. Nothing more is done to them till they are cashed, when the date, and the name of person, firm, or hotel to whom they are pay- able, are filled in, and then in the left-hand lower space the name is again signed, and it must exactly correspond with the upper signa- ture. Unused cheques may be redeemed upon the return home. 12 EUROPEAN GUIDE Thomas Cook & Son issue circular notes for £5, £10, and £20 each ($25, $50, and $100), and the charge is at the rate of 50 cents for $100. It is necessary to have with these a Letter of Iden- tification, so that, when cashing them, the sig- nature may be compared. Notes unused will be redeemed, upon the return home, at any office of the company. Mail. If one is not certain as to the hotel or pension addresses for the European journey, the bankers through whom Letters of Credit are taken will receive and forward (upon request) all mail and telegrams. The American Express Company through all their offices will also accommodate their patrons in this respect, and so will the house of Thomas Cook & Son. If one wishes a letter sent directly to a town or city, so that it may be obtained at the post- office, write plainly the name, town or city, and country, and in the left lower corner Poste Restante. In calling at the post-office, present a visiting card (or the name plainly written) at the necessary window, and there will be no diffi- culty in obtaining the mail. 13 EUROPEAN GUIDE Passports. Passports are not necessary except in the East and in Russia, but, if persons are abroad on their own responsibility, it is well to have one. Apply to the Passport Bureau, Washington, D.C., for a blank form, which will be at once forwarded. Fill this in and sign before a notary public, en- close $1, and return to Washington. The pass- port will be sent promptly. Only one passport is necessary for a man and his wife. Passports for Russia must have the visa of the diplomatic or consular office of Russia as well as that of one's own country. 14 6 TO .2 co *0 I I SI I 5 I 3 I 0) a a I I I I ® ■n I CD a o a\& mi wi a) U >» bO O t, a a- * * CQ do Ail rj^Hgj CO i-4 tC JCO gj u >H d « s a* 18 S 15 Chapter II. STEAMSHIP LINES AND THE VOYAGE. Engage berths as soon as possible after the journey is settled upon, as the demand for ac- commodations constantly increases, and early application is particularly important for berths in the late spring and early summer sailings. If possible, engage berths for return passage at the same time, especially if they are required for the last of August or the early weeks of Sep- tember. Most steamship companies allow a discount of 10 per cent, from the price of the return trip, if passage on the same line is en- gaged at the same time with the outward passage. A good traveller will not place too much im- portance upon the situation of a state-room, as they are all arranged for the comfort of passengers, and one spends little time there. A detailed plan of a ship, with full price list of state-rooms, will be mailed by any company upon request, and prompt attention will be paid to letters of inquiry. A deposit of $25 holds the berth until three weeks before the date of sailing, when the bal- ance of the passage money must be paid. At the time of purchasing the ticket engage a steamer 16 EUROPEAN GUIDE chair for the voyage, the use of which costs $1, payable in advance. A receipt is issued for the deposit of $25 ; and, when the rest of the passage money is paid, this receipt must be sent with the remittance. The ticket is then issued; and, if a round trip is purchased, either the return ticket is sent or an order for a return passage, if one has been un- able to decide upon a special ship and date. The receipt for the steamer chair, which is issued as payment, is to be handed, upon the day of sailing, to the deck steward, who will provide the chair. If one is obliged to give up a reserved passage, the deposit of $25 will be returned, upon request, up to three weeks before sailing. After this date it becomes subject to the rule of the steamship companies, that reserved berths must be sold again by them before deposits are returned. Returning berths may be engaged by deposit- ing $25 per berth, for which a receipt is given. The order that is issued for a return passage calls for a berth at a stated price, and is available on any of the more important lines, these being indicated upon the face of the order. Upon presentation at the office of any of these lines a ticket will be issued at the price it commands. If one is in Europe when writing for a return 17 EUROPEAN GUIDE berth, address the chief office of the desired line in London, Paris, Antwerp, Rotterdam, Bremen, Hamburg, Genoa, Naples, or Trieste, as the case may be, and say that a return order from such and such a line is held, stating the price it calls for, and asking if there is the desired ac- commodation and for a plan of the ship. When informed by letter that a certain berth, or room, is available, at once accept it or de- cline it. If it is accepted, send the return order and register it, with instructions as to what shall be done about the ticket. If it is to be forwarded, order it registered, and allow plenty of time for its transmission. If it is convenient in connec- tion with the journey, it is best to have the com- pany hold the ticket at the office till called for personally. STEAMSHIP LINES FOR EUROPE. BOSTON TO QUEENSTOWN. Lines. Rates. Cunard. May 1 to July 15, $80 and up. Return, August 12 to October 24, $80 and up. July 16 to April 30, $65 and up. Return, October 25 to August 11, $65 and up. White Star. April 1 to October 31, $70 and up. Return, April 1 to October 31, $70 and up. November 1 to March 31, ^>55 and up. Return, November 1 to March 31, ^55 and up. 18 EUROPEAN GUIDE Lines. CUNARD. Leyland. White Star. BOSTON TO LIVERPOOL. Rates. May 1 to July 15, $80 and up. Return, August 12 to October 24, $80 and up. July 16 to April 30, $65 and up. Return, October 25 to August 11, $65 and up. April 1 to October 31, $70 and up. Return, April 1 to October 31, $70 and up. November 1 to March 31, $55 and up. Return, November 1 to March 31, $55 and up. April 1 to October 31, $70 and up. Return, April 1 to October 31, $70 and up. November 1 to March 31, $55 and up. Return, November 1 to March 31, $55 and up. BOSTON TO GLASGOW. Line. Rates. Allan. Eastward, $35 and up. Westward, $35 and up. BOSTON TO ANTWERP. Line. Rates. Red Star. August 1 to October 15, $52.50 and up. October 16 to July 31, $52.50 and up. MONTREAL TO LIVERPOOL. Lines. Rates. Allan. East-bound, $70 and up. West-bound, $75 and up. Canadian East-bound, $65 and up. Pacific. West-bound, $Q5 and up. 19 EUROPEAN GUIDE MONTREAL TO MOVILLE (LONDONDERRY). Line. Rates. Allan. East-bound, $70 and up. West-bound, $70 and up. MONTREAL TO HAVRE AND LONDON. Line. Rates. Allan. Eastward, $40 and up. Westward, $45 and up. NEW YORK TO QUEENSTOWN. Lines. Rates. Cunard. May 1 to July 15, $82.50 and up. Return, August 12 to Oct. 24, $82.50 and up. July 16 to April 30, $67.50 and up. Return, Oct. 25 to August 11, $67.50 and up. White Star. April 1 to October 31, $90 and up. Return, April 1 to October 31, $90 and up. November 1 to March 31, $75 and up. Return, November 1 to March 31, $75 and up. Lines. Cunard. White Star. NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL. Rates. May 1 to July 15, $82.50 and up. Return, August 12 to Oct. 24, $82.50 and up. July 16 to April 30, $67.50 and up. Return, Oct. 25 to August 11, $67.50 and up. April 1 to October 31, $90 and up. Return, April 1 to October 31, $90 and up. November 1 to March 31, $75 and up. Return, November 1 to March 31, $75 and up. 20 EUROPEAN GUIDE NEW YORK TO MOVILLE (LONDONDERRY) AND GLASGOW. "Lines. Rates. Anchor. June 1 to July 15, $60 and up. Return, August 1 to Sept. 30, $60 and up. July 16 to May 31, $50 and up. Return, October 1 to July 31, $50 and up. Allan. Eastward, $35 and up. Westward, $35 and up. NEW YORK TO LONDON. Line. Rates. Atlantic April 1 to October 31, $80 and up. Transport. Return, April 1 to October 31 , $80 and up. November 1 to March 31, $55 and up. Return, November 1 to March 31, $55 and up. NEW YORK TO HULL. Line. Rates. Wilson. East-bound, $40 and $50. West-bound, $40 and $50. NEW YORK TO BREMEN, VIA PLYMOUTH AND CHERBOURG. Line. North German Lloyd. Rates. April 1 to October 31, $85 and up. Return, April 1 to October 31, $85 and up. November 1 to March 31, $70 and up. Return , November 1 to March 31, $70 and up. 21 EUROPEAN GUIDE NEW YORK TO HAMBURG, VIA SOUTHAMPTON AND CHERBOURG. Line. Rates. Hamburg- April 1 to October 31, $80 and up. American. Return, April 1 to October 31, $80 and up. November 1 to March 31, $65 and up. Return, November 1 to March 31, $65 and up. NEW YORK TO HAVRE (PARIS). Line. Rates. French. April 1 to October 31 , $75 and up. Return, April 1 to October 31 , $75 and up. November 1 to March 31, $60 and up. Return, November 1 to March 31, $60 and up. NEW YORK TO BOULOGNE (PARIS). Line. Rates. Holland- April 1 to October 31, $80 and up. America. Return, April 1 to October 31, $80 and up. November 1 to March 31, $65 and up. Return, November 1 to March 31, $65 and up. NEW YORK TO ROTTERDAM. Line. Rates. Holland- April 1 to October 31, $80 and up. America. Return, April 1 to October 31, $80 and up. November 1 to March 31, $65 and up. Return, November 1 to March 31, $65 and up. NEW YORK TO ANTWERP. Line. Rates. Red Star. April 1 to October 31, $80 and up. Return, April 1 to October 31, $80 and up. November 1 to March 31, $65 and up. Return, November 1 to March 31, $65 and up. EUROPEAN GUIDE NEW YORK TO DOVER (LONDON). Line. Rates. Red Star. April 1 to October 31, $80 and up. Return, April 1 to October 31, $80 and up. November 1 to March 31, $65 and up. Return, November 1 to March 31, $65 and up. NEW YORK TO CHRISTIANIA, CHRISTIANSAND, AND COPENHAGEN. Line. Rates. Scandinavian. May 1 to July 15, $65 and up. Return, August 1 to October 15, $65 and up. July 16 to April 30, $55 and up. Return, October 16 to July 31, $55 and up. PHILADELPHIA TO LIVERPOOL. Line. Rates. American. East-bound, $42.50 and up. West-bound, $42.50 and up. PHILADELPHIA TO LONDON (GRAVESEND) AND ANTWERP. Line. Rates. Red Star. May 1 to July 18, $52.50 and up. July 19 to April 30, $45 and up. ST. JOHN, N.B., TO LIVERPOOL. Lines. Rates. Canadian Eastward, $65 and up. Pacific. Westward, $65 and up. Allan. Eastward, $55 and up. Westward, $55 and up. 23 EUROPEAN GUIDE SOUTHERN ROUTES. BOSTON TO THE AZOEE3. Line. Rates. White Stae. $50 and up. BOSTON TO GIBRALTAR AND NAPLES. Line. Rates. White Star. East-bound, $75 and up. West-bound, $70 and up. NEW YORK TO THE AZORES. Line. Rates. White Star. $50 and up. NEW YORK TO GIBRALTAR AND NAPLES. Line. Rates. Cunard. East-bound, $70 and up. West-bound, $65 and up. Hamburg- East-bound, $65 and up. American. West-bound, $65 and up. North East-bound, $80 and up. German Lloyd. West-bound, $75 and up. White Star. East-bound, $75 and up. West-bound, $70 and up. u EUROPEAN GUIDE NEW YORK TO NAPLES. Lines. Fabre. Rates. $70 and $80. Italian Royal Mail. $80 and up. Austro- Americana. $55. NEW YORK TO TRIESTE. Lines. AUSTRO- Americana. Rates. $65. CUNARD. East-bound, $85 and up. West-bound, $80 and up. Notes on Return Sailings. Cunard Line: Steamships in the Mediterranean services stop at Fiume, Palermo, Naples, and Gibraltar upon the return trip. Hamburg- American Line: Steamships from Hamburg stop at Southampton and Cherbourg, also at Boulogne and Plymouth, according to announced sailings. North German Lloyd Line: Steamships from Bremen stop at Southampton and Cherbourg. Red Star Line: Steamships from Antwerp stop at Dover during the spring and summer. White Star Line: As by printed schedule, steamships stop at the Azores and at Algiers. For Egypt. Certain steamships of the Mediterranean Lines connect at Naples with steamers for Egypt. These dates will be sent upon application. 25 EUROPEAN GUIDE Second-class Berths. The low rates on some lines indicate that cer- tain ships carry only one class of passengers, — second-class. These passengers, however, have all the advantages of first-class. Time and expense may be saved by using second-class berths on the large and fast steam- ships. Prices will be sent upon application to any line. The accommodations supplied by these steamers are in every way comfortable. The rooms are clean and well ventilated. The sec- ond-class table is good, — far better than is to be found in most summer hotels. Baggage. When steamship tickets are issued, a full set of labels and tags are furnished the passenger for baggage. As already suggested, do not use those that say "Not Wanted," as baggage thus marked will go to the hold. Fill in the name and re- quired data on the labels, and paste them on trunks and suit-cases. Write plainly on the tags, according to directions, and tie these to each end of the trunks, to the suit-cases, and to the hold- alls. 26 EUROPEAN GUIDE Some companies send a label with one large letter which is the initial of the name of the pas- senger, and this is to be pasted on the baggage to aid in finding it at the port where customs examinations take place. If this is not given with other tags, it means that such are not used on that particular line or that the state-room stewards will put them on the baggage before landing. Careful record is kept of all baggage received on the dock, sent by express ; and near the gang- way will be found the baggage-master, who will answer any questions relative to trunks and other pieces of baggage. If baggage has been sent by express, care should be taken to have it arrive the afternoon before the ship sails; and the baggage-master should be asked by telephone, late that afternoon, if he has received it. Before going on board, ask if it has been put on the ship. If the baggage goes with one to the ship, by carriage, stewards at once take it on board. Oftentimes this baggage will not be put in the state-room until after the ship has sailed, but there need be no anxiety in regard to it, if it is on board. 27 EUROPEAN GUIDE Shipboard Notes. If friends are to go to the steamer to see one sail, care should be taken to arrange for some special point of rendezvous, as in the confusion of a crowd it is difficult to find individuals. The number of the state-room should also be given to friends. Arrange to be on board two hours before the ship sails, so that details for the voyage may be attended to and time allowed to bid adieu to friends. Do not try to settle things in the state-room before sailing, but ring the bell for the steward, and decide upon the hour for the bath, and if it is to be hot or cold. Next go to the dining saloon, and arrange for a seat or seats at table. The second steward is usually in charge of this. One may consult a plan of the tables and see personally if a seat will be pleasant, and then, having decided, a small card with the table number will be given one. At the first meal it is not usual to use these seats, passengers sitting wherever they wish. If it is a first voyage, it would be well to select a seat near the door, so that it will be easy to escape — if necessary. The bath and the table being arranged for, 28 EUROPEAN GUIDE find the deck steward, show him the receipt for the steamer chair, and select a place for it that seems attractive. Aid his memory in recollect- ing the desired spot for the chair by a small fee of 25 cents. There now only remains the pleasant duty of looking for mail, telegrams, and flowers (which will be found in the dining saloon) and of re- ceiving the "bon voyage" visits of friends. Last words for shore or any forgotten message may be sent by post through the pilot boat, which usually leaves the ship about an hour after sailing from either Boston or New York. If one wishes to write letters for transmission in this way, it is best to inquire of the library steward, to ascertain the exact amount of time in hand for this purpose. Shortly after the ship sails, go to the state- room and unpack the steamer clothes and wraps, and arrange the small belongings for comfort and with regard to the convenience of the state- room companion. If the state-room companion is a friend, it is a simple matter to divide the room, but, if a stranger, care should be taken to be un- selfish and only take what belongs by courtesy to one person. The berths, of course, are speci- fied upon one's tickets, so that no difficulty can arise from this source. Use every effort to be agreeable and patient, and to overlook any little 29 EUROPEAN GUIDE personalities that are not pleasant. The voyage only lasts a few days, and, with a little care, cheer- ful and kindly relations will make the time pass quickly. No two persons can hope to escape altogether the ordeal of mutual criticism. Spend all the time possible on deck, take long walks, and enjoy the various games, such as shuffle- board, quoits, etc., that give necessary exercise. The ship libraries have a good collection of books ; and a steward in charge keeps a record of each book you take out, and will put any special one aside for you upon request. This steward has charge of the writing-desks, and will furnish paper and envelopes at any time, and he also sells pretty postal cards and postage stamps. The barber usually has quite an attractive store of trinkets for sale, and can often give a satisfactory shampoo for women. Boots put outside the door at night will be carefully polished. Wines, beer, and mineral waters are ordered by a card signed with the name, and these ac- counts are presented for payment at the end of the voyage. Shipboard Entertainments. On nearly all lines a varied entertainment is given by the passengers on an evening near the 30 EUROPEAN GUIDE end of the voyage. The proceeds are divided among certain institutions at home and abroad, where the widows and orphans of sailors are cared for. If one has any gifts or accomplish- ments that will add to the success of the enter- tainment, they should be cheerfully offered. Courtesy will demand that there should be no criticism. A collection is taken, and programmes that are printed on board and that make pleasant souvenirs are sold. No fixed sum is charged, but 25 cents is the usual price. At the end of the performance the sum realized is announced. What is called the "Captain's Dinner" is given on the German lines near the end of the voyage. There is much ceremony, the dining saloon is decorated with flags, and the captain presides, — if the weather allows him to be pres- ent, — and often makes a speech. Fees. The necessary fees on shipboard are not to be absolutely defined. Much depends upon the service demanded and upon the class of the ship. On the great liners where particularly careful service is given, and where high prices are paid for berths, the fees are necessarily large. On 31 EUROPEAN GUIDE ordinary ships, with no extra service, the follow- ing fees are reasonable: table steward, $2.50; state-room steward, $2.50; deck steward, $1; stewardess, $1 (unless she has given special care to one, when the fee should be increased). Bath steward, about 25 cents for each attendance. There yet remain the library steward, who also has charge of the writing-room, and the deck boy, who picks up rugs, pillows, and books, moves chairs, and offers other pleasant services. To these one ought to give at least 50 cents each. Doctor. The services of the ship-doctor are given with- out fee to passengers who are merely sea-sick. If called upon to prescribe for other illness, he should receive the usual fee paid on shore for such service. Hints. All fees are paid at the end of the voyage. The state-room steward attends to the state- room baggage, and will show the passenger where it is located upon the dock when landing. The deck steward attends entirely to all rugs and pillows, and, if they are damp, hangs them where they will dry. 32 EUROPEAN GUIDE The library steward has postage stamps and picture postal cards for sale. He will take charge of letters and arrange for the telegrams. A mail box is provided for letters. All important notices for passengers are posted in the companionway that leads to the dining saloon. Here, also, are posted notices of articles found, and those that are lost. Time Bell on Board Ship. The day at sea commences at noon, and not at midnight as on shore. THE SAME BELLS ARE FOR A.M. AS FOR P.M. 1 Bell, 12.30 4.30 8.30 2 Bells, 1.00 5.00 9.00 3 " 1.30 5.30 9.30 4 " 2.00 6.00 10.00 5 " 2.30 6.30 10.30 6 " 3.00 7.00 11.00 7 " 3.30 7.30 11.30 8 " 4.00 8.00 12.00 33 Chapter III. THE ARRIVAL IN EUROPE. At the port where one disembarks, and also at every frontier crossed in travel, all baggage is examined. This examination is not strict for the foreign visitor. Officials are always courteous and careful, and should be treated with polite def- erence. We visit their countries to enjoy the benefits of their civilization and to put ourselves under their protection. The least we can do is to respect the laws which these officers repre- sent. One general rule applies for all points where there will be examinations. Do not have much tobacco or many cigars, no full bottles of spirits or wine, no full bottles of Florida water or cologne, no full packages of tea, no full boxes of soap, and in England do not have any Ameri- can or foreign editions of copyrighted English books or music. After landing, pass into the baggage-room on the dock, where the customs officers will be found. On many of the steamship piers large letters are posted on the walls of the examination-room, these being the initials of the passengers' names. Baggage will usually be found under the proper 34 EUROPEAN GUIDE letter. The stewards, however, will indicate to passengers where the baggage has been placed. Never offer a fee to a customs official at any landing port or at any frontier. Porters are at hand to assist travellers. When all the baggage has been located, have one of these porters get it together, and ask a customs officer to examine it. Open your baggage freely. The officer marks each piece with chalk, which passes it by the official at the door. The porter places all your baggage (called luggage) * on a truck, and follows your directions as to where it shall go, — to carriage, omnibus, or train. Ac- company this porter, pay him, and discharge him, his duty ended. The correct fee for a porter is threepence (6 cents) for each piece of baggage, the same relative sum in each country for the same service. The traveller may always feel safe in leaving baggage in care of a regular uniformed porter at either steamship wharves or railway stations, but a note should always be made of the porter's official number, which will be plainly displayed upon his cap. The companies are all very strict in * It is very advisable to learn at the outset of travelling to call things by the names commonly used in the country. Thus in England "baggage" is called "luggage," a railway ticket office is called a "booking office," an elevator is a "lift," etc. 35 EUROPEAN GUIDE insisting upon efficiency and honesty among their employees. One should always avoid, so far as possible, employing any of the non-official port- ers, of whom there are usually a number avail- able; and, if it becomes necessary to use one of these in transporting baggage, he should be kept under close watch during the service. Railway Aids and Cook's Men. Men representing railway lines, and always in uniform, are at the dock and in the customs- room, to offer any information or aid to the traveller. Cook's men are also there, and these last are to be found at railway stations in all large cities. These representatives of the railroads and Cook Tourist Company speak English, and offer careful and intelligent service on application, for which they should receive a tip of not less than 25 cents, or its equivalent. The railway representatives will give full in- formation about trains and routes and attend to baggage. Baggage Transportation. Passengers landing in England may forward their baggage to destination in London by paying 36 EUROPEAN GUIDE (yd. (12 cents) for each piece. This baggage must be carefully addressed, with name, hotel, or residence. A label is tied or pasted on each piece, and half of each label is given to the passenger, by which he claims his baggage at the termination of the journey. Where the London address has not been de- cided upon in advance, baggage may be sent to the "cloak-room" of any station. A charge for this service of twopence (4 cents) a day is made for two days: for a longer time, threepence (6 cents) a day is charged. For baggage within the limit outlined in the schedule on page 39 there will be no charge for weight in Great Britain. The railroad ticket includes its transportation. If the baggage goes along by the same train with the passenger to London, immediately upon arrival call a porter, go where the baggage is deposited upon the railway platform, find your property, and have the porter take it to a cab. Porter's tip should be threepence (6 cents) for each large piece and twopence (4 cents) for each small piece. In leaving London or any railway station in Great Britain, a porter will take baggage from the carriage or omnibus upon arrival. It is 37 EUROPEAN GUIDE then weighed, and, as the coupon check system only applies to boat trains in Great Britain, the luggage is labelled for the destination desired by pasting upon it a printed slip bearing the name of the place, after which it is placed in a baggage car. A passenger must always have a certain over- sight of his baggage in England, as it is handled by the label system , and not the check system. On the Continent, where it is registered, the registra- tion is practically a check. Registered Baggage. When leaving England for the Continent and at all Continental railway stations, tickets must be shown when registering baggage. Porters take baggage from carriage or omnibus, and deposit it at the proper section. Other porters within the section weigh it, and report the result to an official in charge, to whom the tickets should be handed through a small window. The porters also give a number to the official; and, after figuring the sum due on a small detailed slip, he adds this special number to the slip, with the number of pieces, the weight, and the amount paid. This is the registration receipt, and corresponds EUROPEAN GUIDE with our check system. The number on the re- ceipt corresponds to the number that is pasted by the porters on each piece of baggage. When presenting the receipt at the end of the journey, the baggage is identified by the number. Give the porters a fee that will be the value of 10 cents in American money for each piece of registered baggage. All money paid station porters is collected by one of their number, and divided equally. Baggage Notes. THE BRITISH ISLES. In England, Ireland, and Scotland a first-class railway ticket allows 120 pounds of baggage free; a second-class ticket, 100 pounds free. It is impossible to give exact notes for over- weight, as the charges are made on a system of distances and on the basis of hundred-weight. THE CONTINENTAL WEIGHTS AND DISTANCES. On the Continent all weights are reckoned in kilograms, all distances in kilometers. 1 kilogram equals 2^- (2.20462) pounds. 1 kilometer is equal to f (0.62137) of a mile. Each country has its own system in dealing with baggage. EUROPEAN GUIDE HOLLAND. In Holland no free baggage is allowed, but between Holland and most other countries 25 kilograms (55 pounds) are carried free. The rates for baggage in Holland are as fol- lows : — For a distance of 20 kilometers (12.43 miles), 5 cents (2 cents U.S.) for every 10 kilograms (22 lbs.). For a distance of 50 kilometers (31.07 miles), 10 cents (4 cents U.S.) for every 10 kilograms (22 lbs.). For a distance of 200 kilometers (124J miles), 25 cents (10 cents U.S.) for every 10 kilograms (22 lbs.) . BELGIUM. In Belgium there is no free allowance of bag- gage: rate of charge, lj centimes (J cent) per kilometer (0.62137 miles) for every 25 kilograms (55 pounds). FRANCE. In France 30 kilograms (66 pounds) of bag- gage are allowed free. The rate for excess baggage varies, so that it is impossible to quote it here. SWITZERLAND. In Switzerland there is no free baggage; but, owing to the rate changing according to the class of trains, it is not practical to give it. 40 EUROPEAN GUIDE ITALY. The charge for baggage in Italy is about 4j centesimi for 100 kilograms per kilometer, with a small tax for registration. For example, it would cost L. 9.30 ($1.86) for 100 kilos of bag- gage (220 pounds) carried 200 kilometers (124 miles). AUSTRIA-HUNGARY . In Austria-Hungary the allowance of free bag- gage varies from 20 pounds to 50 pounds. GERMANY. In Southern Germany there is no free baggage : from 10 kilograms (22 pounds) to 25 kilograms (55 pounds) of baggage are allowed free in other parts of Germany. SPAIN. In Spain 30 kilograms (66 pounds) of baggage are allowed free. The Question of Fees. Many Americans object to the custom of fees and tips in European travel. This is one of the things to which we must adapt ourselves. If it 41 EUROPEAN GUIDE is faced fairly and counted as part of the cost of the journey, its unpleasant features will be lessened. We are not free from the habit of tipping in our own country, and we overdo it here. Our ser- vants are generously paid, while abroad their wages are so small that they are obliged to de- pend upon what they get in this way. In hotels and pensions a good rule by which to regulate tips and fees is to set aside a sum equal to 10 per cent, of the bill, and divide this among the servants, adding something extra for the concierge (in England the hall porter) at hotels. The concierge is the man who answers every question that may be asked; who is always at hand to help with valuable advice as to sight- seeing, shops, or drives; who looks after letters, sends telegrams, and gives valuable service of every sort. His office is at the entrance of the hotel, and it is a pleasure to show him, by a tip, that his efforts have been appreciated. The servants to be remembered are the waiters, chambermaids, porters, elevator boys, and the "boots" (the man who polishes the shoes). At pensions the fees are much less than at hotels. The servants are fewer, and the ser- 42 EUROPEAN GUIDE vice is more direct and limited. The same rule, to distribute 10 per cent, of the amount of the bill, may be followed here. The Route. In arranging a route for European travel, have it practical. Do not retrace any steps, and see that the ground is well covered. The distances between desirable points in our country are so great we forget how short they are in Europe. We forget, too, that almost every spot of ground is notable. This gives an inclina- tion to loiter, so that one needs a strict plan for travel, otherwise too much time may be consumed with small detail. Cover all the places possible in a journey, but plan for sufficient time to see them properly and to get a correct impression of them. Do not fear that these impressions and ideas may be a jumble when the journey is ended. One of the pleasant results of travel is the knowledge one gets of the power of the mind in observation and memory. How to "plan a Tour. To plan a tour, first decide upon a route. Next send for desired plans and price lists to any 43 EUROPEAN GUIDE steamship company. Having engaged berths at a given price, add to this the cost of the railway tickets. Decide about what hotel or pension rate to pay. Add $1 a day for sight-seeing and the other expenses on the basis I have indicated in the "Detailed Cost," page 48. In this way a reasonable idea may be obtained of the expenses of a trip abroad. The cost will be lessened or increased accord- ing to the hotels or pensions selected. First-class tickets and tickets by the trains de luxe will add materially to the cost of travel. Expenses. With great care the expenses for travel in Europe may be kept down to $5 a day, this to include railway fare, board, and sight- seeing. Increased price means more comfort and luxury. For $10 a day one may travel first-class by boats and trains, stay at the best hotels, and use carriages freely for sight-seeing. Hotels and Pensions. Travellers will find no difficulty in making satisfactory arrangements in Great Britain and 44 EUROPEAN GUIDE on the Continent for reasonable accommodations. In Ireland the best hotels must be used. In Scot- land the prices are high in the best hotels, but there are excellent medium-priced hotels and what are called "Temperance Houses" that are satisfactory. In England every possible accommodation is available. In London, aside from the hotels and excellent boarding-houses, the visitor may "go into lodgings" in some central position. Break- fast will be given if desired, and other meals may be taken wherever convenient in the round of sight-seeing and shopping. Hotels of high grade will furnish rooms, light, attendance, and full board from 12 shillings ($3) a day up to 20 shillings ($5) a day. Excellent hotels may be found where all this may be obtained for 8 shillings ($2) a day and Good boarding-houses will accommodate visi- tors at from 6 shillings ($1.50) up to 10 shillings ($2.50) a day. Lodgings may be found for 28 shillings ($7) a week, with breakfasts for 7 shillings ($1.75) additional. On the Continent prices are lower, and the accommodations fully as good. The list of hotels and pensions found at the 45 EUROPEAN GUIDE end of the volume offer reasonable rates, good rooms, and very satisfactory food, with excellent service. In writing in advance for hotel accommoda- tions, one should state exactly what is required (whether full board and rooms, rooms only, or rooms with breakfast) , stating the price one wishes to pay. Upon arrival, when inspecting rooms, have a distinct understanding in regard to the price. In the long run it is cheaper to engage full board rather than to take rooms and get meals outside. This does not apply to taking lodgings in London. Always make a distinct bargain in regard to the hotel and pension arrangement. Be certain to know if there are to be extra charges, and, if so, have them stated. Remember that attendance included in a bill does not free one from the obligation of tipping. First and Second Class Transportation. It is practical to travel by third-class rail in England and Scotland. In Ireland the second-class may be used, but the third-class will not be satisfactory. 46 EUROPEAN GUIDE Anywhere on the Continent second-class cars are entirely satisfactory. In crossing the channels, the difference between first and second class accommodations may be paid on the steamer, if desired; and this is a slight increase of expense which is well worth in- curring, especially if the season indicates crowded passage. On the Lake boats on the Continent second- class accommodations are good. Difference may be paid on board between first and second class, if desired. On the Rhine boats first-class tickets should be taken, as well as on the Elbe, the Danube, and on the pleasure boats in Holland. Trips Outlined. Following are some routes, with prices, that will illustrate the difference in cost of travel: — ROUTE 1. TOUR OF 56 DAYS. COST, $250. Sail from New York for Hull, by the Wilson Line. At sea, 12 days; London, 6 days; Oxford, 1 day; Warwick, 1 day; Stratford-on-Avon, 1 day; cross to Holland, 1 night; Rotterdam, 1 day; The Hague, 3 days; Leyden and Haarlem, 1 day; Amsterdam, 3 days; Antwerp, 2 days; Brussels, 3 days; Paris, 6 days; return to London, via Brussels and Ant- werp, 1 day; London, 1 day; to Hull and sail, 1 day; at sea, 12 days. 47 EUROPEAN GUIDE Detailed Cost. Steamships (round trip) $90.00 Railway tickets, third class, Hull to London and re- turn, 28 shillings 7.00 Railway ticket, second class (circular), London, Brussels, London, <£2 5s. 5d 11.45 Railway ticket, second class, Brussels to Paris and return, 46.50 francs 9.30 Railway ticket, second class, London to Warwick and return, 17s. lOd 4.45 Drive from Warwick to Shottery, Stratford-on-Avon, and return, 12* 3.00 Hotels, 32 days at $2 a day 64.00 Tips 8.00 Tips on steamships (round trip) 8.00 Sight-seeing 32.00 Laundry 4.00 Transfers to and from hotels 5.00 Postage and postal cards 1.80 Sundries 2.00 $250.00 NO. 2. TOUR OF 70 DAYS. COST, $475. Sail from New York, Boston, or Montreal, for Liverpool, 9 days. Liverpool and Chester, 1 day; Stratford-on-Avon, 1 day; Warwick, 1 day; Oxford, 1 day; London, 7 days; The Hague, 2 days; Amsterdam, 3 days; Cologne, 2 days; the Rhine, 1 day; Mayence and Frankfort, 1 day; Heidelberg, 2 days; Baden-Baden, 3 days; Basle, 1 day; Lucerne, 3 days; In- terlaken, 3 days; Berne, 1 day; Lausanne, 2 days; Geneva, 3 days; Paris, 9 days; to London, 1 day; in London, 3 days; to Liverpool and rail, 1 day; at sea, 9 days. 48 EUROPEAN GUIDE Detailed Cost. Steamships (round trip) . . . m $150.00 Railway tickets, third class, Liverpool to London and return, 33* 8.25 Railway ticket (circular), London to London, 183s. . 45.75 Hotels, 52 days at $3 a day 156.00 Tips 15.00 Tips on steamships (round trip) 10.00 Sight-seeing 52.00 Laundry 5.00 Transfers to and from hotels 10.00 Baggage 15.00 Postage and postal cards . . . . , 3.00 Sundries 5.00 $475.00 EXTENDED TRIP TO NORTHERN ITALY. Two Weeks — Lucerne to Lucerne. From Lucerne, over the St. Gotthard route, to Milan, 1 day; Milan, 1 day; Venice, 3 days; Florence, 4 days; Pisa, 1 day; Genoa, 2 days; Milan, 1 day; to Lucerne, 1 day. Continue route as outlined in original trip. Additional cost, railway ticket (circular), F . 116.55 . $23.30 Add for daily expenses 80.00 $103.30 Tour of 84 days, cost 578.30 TRIP ADDED TO INCLUDE ALL ITALY. Three Weeks — Lucerne to Lucerne. From Lucerne, via the St. Gotthard route, to Milan, 1 day; Milan, 1 day; Venice, 4 days; Florence, 3 days; Rome, 5 49 EUROPEAN GUIDE days; Naples, 4 days; to Rome and Pisa, 1 day; Genoa, 1 day; to Lucerne, 1 day. Continue route as outlined above. Additional cost, railway ticket (circular), F. 180 . . $36.00 Add for daily expenses 100.00 $136.00 Tour of 91 days, cost 611.00 NO. 3. TOUR OF 81 DAYS. COST, $535. Sail from New York, Boston, or Montreal, for Liverpool, 9 days; Liverpool and Chester, 1 day; Stratford-on-Avon, 1 day; Warwick, 1 day; Oxford, 1 day; London, 5 days: Ant- werp, 1 day; The Hague, 2 days; Amsterdam, 3 days; Hano- ver, 2 days; Berlin, 5 days; Dresden, 3 days; Prague, 2 days; Vienna, 5 days; Munich, 4 days; Zurich, 2 days; Lucerne, 4 days; Interlaken, 3 days; Berne, 1 day; Lausanne, 2 days; Geneva, 2 days; to Paris, 1 day; Paris, 6 days; Brussels, 2 days; to London, 1 night; London, 3 days; to Liverpool and sail; at sea, 9 days. Detailed Cost. Steamships (round trip) $150.00 Railway ticket, third class, Liverpool to London and return, 33* 8.25 Railwav ticket, second class, London to Geneva, F/165.10 33.02 Railway ticket, second class, Geneva to Paris, F. 56.30, 11.26 Railway ticket, second class, Paris to Brussels, F. 23.25 4.65 Railwav ticket, second class, Brussels to London (via Antwerp), F. 24.05 4.82 Amount carried forward $-21-2.00 50 EUROPEAN GUIDE Amount brought forward $212.00 Hotels, 63 days at $3 a day 189.00 Tips 17.00 Tips on steamships (round trip) 10.00 Sight-seeing 63.00 Laundry 8.00 Transfer to and from hotels 10.00 Baggage 16.00 Postage and postal cards 5.00 Sundries 5.00 $535.00 SAMPLE ITINERARY FOR A COMPREHENSIVE TOUR. 1st day: Sail for Queenstown. 6 days: At sea. 7th day: Land at Queenstown, and take train for Cork. 8th day: In Cork. Visit the Cathedral, the Church of Shandon and hear the " Bells of Shandon. ' ' Make a trip to Blarney Castle by jaunting-car. 9th day: Take morning train for Ban try, where coach is taken for a delightful drive along the shore of Bantry Bay to Glengariff. 10th day: Take coach from Glengariff to Kenmare, where luncheon is taken. Thence over the mountains proceed to Killarney. 11th day: In Killarney. 12th day: With drives to all points of interest, and a trip through the Gap of Dunloe. 13th day: Take morning train to Dublin. Take a drive to Phoenix Park and about the citv. 14th day: In Dublin. Visit Trinity College, St. Patrick's Cathedral with the tombs of Dean Swift and Stella, the Cathedral of Christ Church and the Castle. 51 EUROPEAN GUIDE 15th day: By morning train proceed to Belfast. Take a drive about the city. 16th day: Take a morning train for Portrush, where the elec- tric tramway train is taken for the Giant's Cause- way. After luncheon visit the Causeway, and, if the weather permits, take a boat and visit some of the remarkable caves under the cliffs. Return to Portrush and take train for Belfast. 17th day: Take morning boat for a beautiful sail across to Ardrossan, Scotland. Thence proceed by train to Glasgow. 18th day: In Glasgow. Visit the Cathedral, the Crypt and Cemetery, the City Hall, Green Park, and South Side Park. Near the latter Mary Queen of Scots lost the battle of Langside which cost her the throne. 19th day: Take morning train for Balloch. Thence take steamer on Loch Lomond for Inversnaid, where coach is taken for Stronachlachar; by steamer cross Loch Katrine, passing Ellen's Isle, and at the land- ing pier take coach for the drive through the Trossachs to Callander, where train is taken for Edinburgh. 20th day: In Edinburgh. 21st day: Drive, and visit the Old Castle. 22d day : The Church of St . Giles, the grave of John Knox, the "Heart of Mid-Lothian," the old Tron Church where Annie Laurie was married, the House of John Knox, Holyrood Palace, Calton Hill, the Scott Monument, and the Picture Gallery. Take one day for a trip by train to Melrose to visit the beautiful ruin of the Abbey. Thence go by coach to Abbotsford, the home of Sir Walter Scott, and return to Edinburgh. 23d day: By morning train proceed to Durham, visit the Cathedral, and go on to York. 24th day: Visit all parts of the splendid York Minster and enjoy a walk on the old Roman Wall. Take an afternoon train for Lincoln. Visit the Cathedral. 52 EUROPEAN GUIDE 25th day: By morning train proceed to Ely, visit the Cathe- dral, and take a train for Cambridge. 26th day: In Cambridge, with visits to the notable colleges and historic sites. Take an early evening train for London. 27th day: In London. Drive, and visit the Smithfield Mar- 28th day: ket, the old Church of St. Bartholomew, the Guild- 29th day: hall and Corporation Gallery, the Mansion House, 30th day: Bank of England, Tower of London, Tower 31st day: Bridge, London Bridge, the Embankment, Parlia- 32d day: ment Buildings, Westminster Abbey, Whitehall, Trafalgar Square, National Gallery. Piccadilly, Regent Street , Oxford Street, the British Museum, Old Curiosity Shop, the Temple, Fleet Street, "the Cheshire Cheese," St. Paul's and the Crypt, Pall Mall, St. James Palace, Buckingham Palace, Hyde Park and Rotten Row, the Albert Memorial, Royal Albert Hall and the South Kensington Museum, Regent's Park, the Zoological Gardens, the Tate Gallery, the Wallace Collection and Kew Gardens. 33d day: Take morning train for Windsor Castle, and in the afternoon go on to Oxford. 34th day: In Oxford. Drive, and visit Christ Church Col- lege, Baliol , New College Chapel with its splendid windows, Magdalen College and Addison's Walk, the Bodleian Library, the Sheldonian Theatre, Merton College, St. John's, the Martyrs' Monu- ment, and to the river to see the boat-houses and landings. 35th day: Take train for Leamington, enjoy a walk in the pretty town and by tram go on to Warwick for a visit to Warwick Castle and the old Church of St. Mary. Late in the afternoon drive to Stratford- on-Avon. 36th day: Take a carriage from the Red Horse Hotel for Anne Hathaway's Cottage at Shottery. Return to Stratford, and visit Trinity Church with the grave of Shakespeare. Thence drive by the old 53 EUROPEAN GUIDE 36th day: School, the Memorial Theatre, the House of John Harvard, the Childs Memorial, to the House and Museum of Shakespeare. Take an hour for the town and shops. Late in the afternoon take a train for London. (If one wishes a short tour, return may be made from Liverpool, taking steamship train from London.) 37th day: In London. For the shops. 38th day: Take morning train, by any desired route, to Paris. 39th day: In Paris. Drive, and visit Notre Dame, the 40th day: Morgue, Ste. Chapelle, the Palace of Justice, the 41st day: Pantheon, the Church of Ste. Etienne du Mont, 4 2d day: the Gallery of the Luxembourg, the tomb of Na- 43d day: poleon and Les Invalides, the Eiffel Tower, the 44th day: Trocadero, the Place de la Concorde, the Champs- Elysees, the Arch of Triumph, the Bois de Bou- logne, the Galleries of the Louvre, the Gardens of the Palais Royale, the Gardens of the Tuileries, the Rue Royale, the Madeleine, the Pare Mon- ceaux, the Boulevards and the Place Bastile, Pere- la-Chaise. Make a trip to Versailles, and visit the Grand Trianon, the State Carriages, the Little Trianon, the Hamlet of the Court of Louis XVI., and the great Palace and Superb Gardens. Also make a trip on the Seine to St. Cloud, and return. 46th day: By morning express train proceed to Geneva, an all -day journey. 47th day: In Geneva. Drive, and visit the old church where Calvin preached, the Russian Church, the gardens where one gets the view of the rivers Rhone and Arve as they come together, the Water Works of the city and the modern and old parts of Geneva. Also visit the H6tel-de-Ville, and see the Baron's Stairway and the "Geneva Award" Chamber. 48th day: Take morning steamer on Lake Leman for a de- lightful sail to Lausanne and the Castle of Chillon. Visit the Castle of Chillon. Thence take tramway car to Territet, where train is taken for Lausanne. 54 EUROPEAN GUIDE 49th day: In Lausanne. Visit the Market Square and old Cathedral and the picturesque streets and pretty 50th day: By morning train, via Fribourg, proceed to Berne. Take a drive of two hours, and visit the High Bridge, the Cathedral Terrace, the Bear Pits, the Hotel -de-Ville, the Clock Tower, and the famous street fountains. Have luncheon at the railway station, and take train for Scherzligen. Here take steamer on Lake Thun for Interlaken. 51st day: At Interlaken. 52d day: Make a trip of one day to Lauterbrunnen, thence across the Wengern Alp and to the Eiger Glacier, thence down to Grindelwald and on to Interlaken. 53d day: Take steamer on Lake Brienz for Brienz, thence take train over the Briinig Pass to Lucerne. 54th day: In Lucerne. Visit the old bridges, the famous 55th day: "Lion"; in the late afternoon attend the organ concert at the old Church, and devote much time to the beautiful shops. 56th day: By boat on the Lake of the Four Cantons pro- ceed to Fllielen, where train will be taken over the St. Gotthard route for Lugano. 57th day: In Lugano, on Lake Lugano. 58th day: By boat on Lake Lugano proceed to Porlezza at the end of the lake. Take train over the mountain to Menaggio. Here take the boat across Lake Como to Bellaggio. Stop here for luncheon. Take boat (express) for Como. Thence by train proceed to Milan. 59th day: In Milan. Visit the Cathedral, the Royal Palace, the Galleria Victor Emanuel, La Scala Theatre, the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie with the Refectory, where is the "Last Supper" of Leonardo da Vinci. Also visit the Brera Gallery and its fine collection of pictures. Take a drive about the city and to the Arch of Peace where the Simplon Road begins. 55 EUROPEAN GUIDE 60th day: By morning train across Northern Italy proceed to Venice. 61st day: In Venice. Visit the Basilica of San Marco, the 62d day: Doges' Palace, the Prison Cells and the Bridge of 63d day: Sighs, the Royal Lace Manufactory, the Academy of Fine Arts, the Church of the Frari with the tomb of Titian and the heart of Canova, the Rialto, the Markets, the Church of the Jesuits, the Church of St. John and St. Paul, the Public Garden, and the Lido. 64th day: Take morning express train for Florence, crossing the Apennines. 65th day: In Florence. Visit the Cathedral, the Baptistery, 66th day: the Loggia dei Lanzi, the Galleries of the Uffizi 67th day: and the Pitti Palace, the Piazza Michelangelo, 68th day: the Church and Convent of San Marco, the Acad- emy of Fine Arts, the Church of San Lorenzo and the tombs of the Medici, the Protestant Cemetery, the Cascine, and make a trip by the tramway to old Fiesole to visit the Amphitheatre and the in- teresting Cathedral. 69th day: Leave Florence for Rome by morning express train. 70th day: In Rome. Visit St. Peter's, the Vatican Galleries 71st day: and the Castle San Angelo, the Pantheon, the 72d day: Capitol Hill, the Museum of the Capitol and the Church of Ara Coeli, the Mamertine Prison, the 73d day: Roman Forum, the Coliseum, the Catacombs, 74th day: the Via Appia, the Church of St. John Lateran, the Scala Santa, the Church of Santa Maria Mag- giore, the Forum of Trajan, the Church of the Jesuits, the Garden of the Pincio, the Villa Bor- ghese, and the Fountain of Trevi. 75th day: Take morning train to Naples, arriving shortly after noon. 76th day: In Naples. Visit the Aquarium, the Villa Nazion- ale, the Height of Posilipo, the Royal Palace, the Galleria Humberto,and the Museum with its treas- ures from Pompeii. 56 EUROPEAN GUIDE 77th day: Take boat in the morning for the Island of Capri, to visit the Blue Grotto. From Capri, after luncheon, take boat for Sorrento. 78th day: Spend the morning in Sorrento, and take a carriage after luncheon for the beautiful drive to Amalfi. 79th day: In Amalfi. 80th day: Drive by carriage to La Cave in the early morn- ing, where train is taken for Pompeii. Visit the excavated city, and take a late afternoon train for Naples. 81st day: In Naples. Visit the shops, and in the afternoon enjoy a drive to the upper part of the city and along the fashionable sea-walled road by the Villa Na- zionale. (Persons wishing to do so may sail for New York or Boston from Naples, via Gibraltar.) 82d day: Take early morning train for Rome. 83d day: By morning express train go on to Pisa. Drive, and visit the Cathedral, the Leaning Tower, the Bap- tistery, Campo Santo, and the House of Galileo. 84th day: By morning express train proceed to Genoa. 85th day: In Genoa. Drive, and visit the Royal Palace, the Church of the Annunciation, the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, the Church of San Ambrogio, the Pa- lazzo Rosso with the Picture Gallery. Drive also along the magnificent sea-wall roads, in the garden of Acqua Sola, and about the new sections of the city. In the afternoon take the tramway, and visit the famous Campo Santo, out of town. 86th day: Proceed to Turin. 87th day: In Turin. Drive. and visit the Cathedral, the nota- ble Picture Gallery in the Academy of Science, the Royal Palace and the Armory, and the Palace Madama. 88th day: Go by express train to Milan, and thence to Verona. 89th day: In Verona. Visit the Amphitheatre, the House of Juliet, the Monuments of the Scaligers, the Cathe- 57 EUROPEAN GUIDE 89th day: dral, the Giusti Gardens, the Church of San Zeno, and the tomb of Juliet. 90th day: Take train over the Brenner Pass to Innsbruck in the Tyrol. 91st day: At Innsbruck. 92d day: Go on to Munich. Spend the afternoon in driving about the city and out to the Hall of Fame and the Monument of "Bavaria." 93d day: In Munich. 94th day: Visit the Glyptothek, or Gallery of Sculpture, the old Pinakothek, or Gallery of Early Paintings, the new Pinakothek, or Gallery of Modern Paintings, the National Museum, the Royal Palace and the celebrated Bronze Foundry. 95th day: Via Salzburg, proceed to Vienna. 96th day: In Vienna. Visit the Cathedral of St. Stephen, 97th day: the Church of the Capuchins, the Augustine 98th day: Church, the Imperial Treasury in the Palace, the 99th day: Imperial Art Gallery, the Imperial Stables, the Art Gallery of the Belvidere, the Liechenstein private Gallery, the Harrach private Gallery, the Rathaus, the Houses of Parliament, the Prater, or great Park. Also visit the Imperial Summer Palace and Gar- dens of Schonbrunn. 100th day: On to Prague. 101st day: In Prague. Visit the Rathaus, the tomb of Tycho Brahe, the Capitol, the Cathedral with the Mauso- leum of the kings of Bohemia, the Imperial Palace, Wallenstein's Palace, and the National Museum. 102d day: Proceed to Dresden. 103d day: In Dresden. 104th day: Visit the Picture Gallery, the Historical Museum, 105th day: the Green Vaults, and the Museum of Antiquities. Express train to Berlin. 106th day: In Berlin. Visit the Royal Palace, the Royal 107th day: Museum (the Old and New Museum), the National 108th day: Museum, the Aquarium, the University and its 109th day: Museum, and the Thiergarten. Make trips to Charlottenburg to visit the Mausoleum, and also 58 EUROPEAN GUIDE 109th day: make a trip to Potsdam to visit the Royal Palace and the Palace of Sans-Souci. (Persons wishing to do so may sail for New York from Hamburg. An express train runs to the landing stage at Cuxhaven.) 110th day: By express train proceed to Frankfort-on-the- Main . 111th day: In Frankfort. Drive, and visit the House of Goethe, the Cathedral, the Romer, the old Jews' Quarter with the house of the founder of the great Rothschild family, the Bethmann Museum and the Aquarium. 112th day Morning train for Heidelberg. Visit all parts of the ruined Castle, and the University. 113th day: In Heidelberg. 114th day: Morning train for Mayence and on to Wiesbaden. 115th day: In Wiesbaden. Visit the celebrated Kochbrunnen, or Hot Spring, make a trip to the Neroberg, and visit the Kursaal. 116th day: By electric tramway go to Biebrich, and take the morning express steamer on the Rhine for the all- day trip to Cologne. 117th day: In Cologne. Visit the Cathedral, the Church of St. Ursula with the bones of the 11,000 Virgins, and the Museum with its Picture Gallery. 118th day: Take morning train for Amsterdam. 119th day: In Amsterdam. Visit the Royal Palace on the Dam, 120th day: the New Kerk, the Rijks Museum, and the Zoolog- ical Garden. Also make a trip through the canals to Broek, Monnikendam, and to the Island of Marken in the Zuyder Zee. 121st day: Take morning train for The Hague, and spend the a f ternoon at the great beach of Scheveningen. Go out to the beach by electric tramway. 122d day: At The Hague. Drive, and visit the House in the 123d day: Wood, the Old Kerk, the New Kerk, the Binnen- hof and the Royal Museum of Paintings. 124th day: Go on to Delft by electric tramway, and visit the points of interest. Thence proceed to Rotterdam, 59 EUROPEAN GUIDE 124th day: and drive for two hours. Dine at Rotterdam, and take train for Antwerp. 125th day: In Antwerp. Drive, and visit the Cathedral, the Church of St. Paul with its curious Calvary, the Church of St. Jacques with the tomb of Rubens, the Museum with its fine collection of pictures. 126th day: Go to Brussels, one hour distant. 127th day: In Brussels. Drive, and visit the H6tel-de-Ville, the Church of Ste. Gudule, the Palace of Justice, and the Wiertz Museum. Take afternoon train for Antwerp, and sail at 6 p.m . for Harwich. 129th day: Arrive at Harwich, and take express train for Lon- don. 130th day: In London. Take boat train for Liverpool or 131st day: Southampton, and sail for New York or Boston. 8 days at sea. Tour of four months and three weeks. Esti- mate of cost, $1,100. This estimate is based on a steamship rate of passage, the round trip, $175; hotels not to exceed $3 per day; travel second class by rail and first class by boats. 60 Chapter IV. SOME ATTRACTIVE ROUTES. Note. — On account of possible changes in rail- way tariffs the prices here given may not always be exact, but the differences will be so slight that the cost of any trips can be very closely approxi- mated. In Ireland. Trips from Cork. If one lands at Queenstown, the city of Cork is only half an hour distant. Trips to Blarney Castle from Cork may be made by jaunting-cars or by trains which cover the distance in half an hour, and run to the gate of the Castle. Round-trip tickets, 1st class, Is. %d. (29 cents). A coupon bought with the ticket for Sd. (6 cents) gives admission to the Castle and grounds. A trip over what is called the " Prince of Wales Route" is made by train from Cork to Bantry: coach to Glengariff (remain a night); coach to Killarney via Kenmare, thence by rail to Dublin. Cost by rail, 1st class, 51s. Sd. ($12.81); 2d class, 435. 3d. ($10.81). An addition to this trip may be made by taking 61 EUROPEAN GUIDE a coach at Kenmare for Parknasilla and Water- ville along the picturesque coast; thence, via Cahirciveen, to Killarney, and on by rail to Dublin. Additional cost, 18s. 6d. ($4.62). All coach drivers expect a fee from each person. Is. (25 cents) for each day's travel is the cus- tomary gratuity. The Grand Parliamentary Tour. (Circular.) A few years ago the members of Parliament made a journey in Ireland over the following route, which at once became popular: by rail from Dublin to Bantry via Cork; coach to Glengariff ; coach to Kenmare; coach to Parknasilla; coach to Waterville and Valentia Harbor; rail to Cahir- civeen, Killarney, Tralee, Limerick, Killaloe; steamer on Lake Derg and the Shannon River to Banagher; rail to Clara, Portarlington, and Dublin. Cost of trip from Dublin to Dublin, 1st class, 1135. 6d. ($28.37); 2d class, 91s. ($22.75). American travellers wishing to take advantage of this opportunity to see some of the most beau- tiful parts of Ireland should start from Cork, leaving steamship at Queenstown. Before sailing for America, write to Thomas EUROPEAN GUIDE Cook & Son, 118 Grafton Street, Dublin, and order tickets for the " Grand Parliamentary Tour," Ireland, to be sent to the Imperial Hotel, Cork, for the date your ship is due; and state that they will be paid for at the Imperial Hotel, when called for. Begin the journey at Cork, and end it at Dublin. The circular ticket is so cheap that one can afford to disregard the section between Dublin and Cork. One-day Trips from Killamey. Through the Gap of Dunloe, via the coach line along the Lower Lake; through the Gap by saddle pony or by a walk of two and one-half hours; by boat on the Upper Lake through the "Meeting of the Waters,'' Middle Lake, and across Lower Lake to Ross Castle; thence by coach to Killarney. Cost for trip, Is. ($1.75). This does not include tolls that admit to estates, nor the hire of ponies through the Gap. The pony, with services of boy in charge, costs 35. 6d. (87 cents). A drive through the estate of Muckross and a visit to the ruins of the famous Abbey; a drive along Middle Lake, passing the Colleen Bawn Rock to Denis Island; thence through some of 63 EUROPEAN GUIDE the estates of the Earl of Kenmare, visiting the beautiful Tore Cascade. Cost of the trip, 4s. 6d. ($1.12). Arrangements for these and for other day trips can be made to the best advantage at the railway office in the Great Southern Hotel, Kil- larney. Box seats on the coaches for these trips cost Is. 6d. (37 cents) extra for each person. One Day Trips from Dublin. No. 1. Take a morning train from Wooden Bridge, drive by jaunting-car to Arklow on the coast, thence to Shelton Abbey (seat of the Earl of Wicklow), and to the Vale of Avoca (Ovoca) and the "Meeting of the Waters." Tom Moore has made this spot of literary interest, — "There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet As the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet." Return to Wooden Bridge and by train to Dublin. Cost for the trip, 1st class, 10s. ($2.50); 2d class, 9s. 2d. ($2.29). No. 2. Take a morning train for Rathdrum, drive by jaunting-car through the Vale of Clara to Glendalough, Seven Churches, Round Tower, 64 EUROPEAN GUIDE and other places connected with the life of Saint Kevin, familiar to us through the poems of Moore. "Serpent-worship" flourished here before Saint Kevin founded the Abbey, where Seven Churches became a famous seat of learning. Saint Kevin's " Kitchen " (Church) is a pictur- esque ruin. His bed is in a small cave above the lake, visited by many famous literary people who have written their names on the walls. Among these names is that of Sir Walter Scott. Tom Moore tells the fatal story of one who tempted the saint, and her tragic fate. The Round Tower is one of the best preserved in Ireland. It was into Lower Lake that Saint Patrick banished the last of the snakes. Drive back to Rathdrum, and take train for Dublin. Cost of trip, 1st class, 85. 9d. ($2.18); 2d class, 7s. 3d. ($1.81). Dublin to London. Fares from Dublin to London via Holyhead, by Royal Mail route: 1st class rail and 1st class saloon, 53s. 6d. ($13.37); 2d class rail and 1st class saloon, 355. 6d. ($8.87). Note. — Sea passage, 2 hours and 45 minutes; train passage from Holyhead to London, 5J hours. 65 EUROPEAN GUIDE Dublin to Liverpool. Fares between Dublin and Liverpool: cabin, 135. 6d. ($3.37); deck, 4s. ($1). Time of pas- sage, 8 hours. Dublin to Belfast. Fares between Dublin and Belfast by boat: cabin, 6s. ($1.50); deck, 3s. (75 cents). Rail- way fares from Dublin to Belfast: 1st class, 23s. ($5.75); 2d class, 18s. 6d. ($4.62). Time by rail, 3 hours. Two Trips for Ireland, Scotland, and England. No. 1. Dublin to Belfast, Portrush, Giant's Causeway; Belfast by mail steamer across the Irish Sea to Greenock; rail to Glasgow; rail to Balloch; steamer on Loch Lomond to Invers- naid; coach to Stronachlachar; steamer on Loch Katrine; coach through the Trossachs to Cal- lander; rail to Stirling and Edinburgh; rail to Carlisle, Penrith, Crewe, Birmingham, Kenil- worth, Leamington, Rugby, London. Ticket, 2d class on trains and steamers, 137s. 6d. ($34.37); ticket, 2d class in Ireland, 1st class on all steamers, 3d class rail in Scotland 66 ' EUROPEAN GUIDE and England, 975. 3d. ($24.31). Tickets good for 60 days. No. 2. Dublin to Belfast; by mail steamer across the Irish Sea to Greenock; rail to Glasgow, Edinburgh, Carlisle, Penrith, Keswick; coach to Ambleside; steamer on Lake Windermere to Lake Side; rail to Ulverston, Carnforth, and Liverpool; rail to Chester, Birmingham, Strat- ford-on-Avon, Warwick, Oxford, Windsor, Lon- don. Ticket, 1st class on trains, steamers, coaches, Ills. ($27.75); 2d class in Ireland, 1st class on all steamers and coaches, 3d class rail in Scotland and England, 75s. ($18.75). Tickets good for 60 days. Moville {Londonderry) to London. Londonderry, Portrush, Giant's Causeway; Portrush, Belfast, Larne; steamer to Stranraer; rail to Ayr, Glasgow, Balloch; steamer on Loch Lomond to Inversnaid; coach to Stronachlachar; steamer on Loch Katrine; coach through Tros- sachs to Callander ; rail to Stirling and Edinburgh ; rail to Melrose (for the Abbey and Abbotsford), York, Lincoln, Ely, Cambridge, London. Ticket, 1st class, rail, steamer, coaches, Ills. ($27.75); 2d class rail in Ireland, 1st class on all steamers and coaches, 3d class rail in Scotland 67 EUROPEAN GUIDE and England, 75s. ($18.75). Tickets good for 60 days. A Trip in Wales. In connection with the regular ticket from Dublin, via Holyhead, to London, a trip may be made in Wales, to include: from Llandudno Junction, rail to Bettws-y-Coed, Blaenau Ffesti- niog, Portmadoc, Llanberis, and Menai Bridge. Extra cost, in connection with regular ticket to London, 1st class, 20s. ($5); 2d class, 175. ($4.25). In Scotland. Trips from Glasgow to Oban and return may be made by steamer. Tickets, 13s. ($3.25). From Glasgow to Oban by steamer and return by rail, 3d class, Us. U. ($3.12). Trip from Glasgow to Inverness (Caledonian Canal) and return by steamer. Tickets, 38s. ($9.50). Returning by steamer as far as Fort William, thence by rail, 3d class, 38s. ($9.50). From Oban there is a daily trip, from May 31 to September 30, by steamer (with guides and boats), to Staff a and Iona; return to Oban around Mull. Tickets, 15s. ($3.75). 68 EUROPEAN GUIDE A trip for one day may be made by steamer and coach from Glasgow to Tarbet (or Tarbert) and return. Tickets, 6s. ($1.50). Meals are served on the steamer at reasonable rates. For special information in regard to trips in connection with steamers, address David Mac- Brayne, 119 Hope Street, Glasgow, Scotland. In England. Interesting trips may be so readily arranged through England, from London, that I shall only call attention to a few that are especially desir- able and low-priced. Week-end tickets, good from Friday to Monday, are available for the following trips: — London to Canterbury and return, 8s. ($2) . " " Rams gate or Margate and return, 8s. ($2). " " St. Leonard's, 8*. ($2). " " Bournemouth and return, 12s. ($3). Trip from London to Chelmsford, Colchester, Ipswich, Yarmouth, Norwich, Ely, Cambridge, and return, 25s. ($6.25). From London to Lynton, circular tour, via Barnstable or Ilfracombe, 395. ($9.75). 69 EUROPEAN GUIDE English Lake Trips, From London to Windermere, Ambleside, Grasmere, Keswick, Ullswater, Kirkstone Pass, Coniston, Furness Abbey, Carnforth, and return, 645. ($16). Trip from London to Windermere, Rydal, Keswick, Derwentwater, Lodore, Ullswater, Patterdale, Lake Side, Bowness, London. Tickets, 73s. ($18.25). Tickets good for 60 days. One-day Trips from London. 1. On any day but Friday take morning train from Waterloo Station for Hampton Court, 15 miles. Round-trip tickets: 1st class, 2s. 9d. (68 cents); 2d class, 2s. (50 cents); 3d class, Is. lOd. (45 cents). Visit the Palace and the State Apartments; the Park and Maze; the great Garden and the private Garden with the Hampton Court Vine. State Apartments open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. from April 1 to October 1, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. remainder of year. Gardens open till sunset. 2. Take train from Waterloo Station for Rich- mond, 10 miles. Round-trip tickets: 1st class, 70 EUROPEAN GUIDE 2s. (50 cents) ; 2d class, Is. 6d. (37 cents) ; 3d class, Is. Sd. (31 cents). Enjoy the view from Richmond Hill and the famous Terrace; visit the Parish Church and Richmond Park with Pembroke Lodge, White Lodge, and other "Lodges" which are princely residences. Dine at the celebrated " Star and Garter," ordering some of its well-known cakes, called " Maids of Honor." 3. At Westminster Bridge take a boat on the Thames for Chelsea. Take a stroll along Cheyne W 7 alk, by the river. Note Tudor House (Queen Elizabeth), houses where Turner, the painter, and Carlyle, "the philosopher of Chelsea," resided. Visit Chelsea Hospital and Gardens; the Botanic Gardens, and note the cedars; the old Parish Church of St. Luke's, and note chained books. Take boat to Kew, and visit the Botanic Gardens, the finest in the world. Note the Palm House; the Water Lily, the Cactus, the Tropical Fern, and the Temperate Houses; the Museum and Napoleon's Willows. Gardens are open week-days from 12, noon, till sunset, and on Sundays from 1 p.m. till sunset. 4. Take train from Holborn Viaduct Station or from Victoria Station, for Crystal Palace. 71 EUROPEAN GUIDE Round-trip tickets (with admission to the Palace) : 1st class, 2s. 6d. (62 cents) ; 2d class, 2s. (50 cents); 3d class, Is. 6d. (37 cents). The Channel Islands. The Channel Islands are interesting, and cheap excursion tickets are sold every Friday during the summer at Waterloo or Paddington Station. The trip is by rail to Southampton, and by steamer to the Islands of Guernsey and Jersey. Round-trip tickets, good for 14 days, 3d class rail, 2d class steamer, 22s. ($5.50). In France. In addition to the Channel Islands a trip may include a visit to France. Leave Waterloo Station, London, for Southampton; steamer to the Islands of Guernsey and Jersey and to France; Granville, Pontorson, Mont St. Michel, St. Malo; steamer direct to Southampton or via Jersey and Guernsey; rail to London. Tickets only sold from May 1 to October 31. For this trip, tickets are good for 2 months (rail, Eng- land, and steamers), and 15 days in France from 72 EUROPEAN GUIDE date of issue. Tickets: 1st class, 60s. ($15); 2d class, 465. Sd. ($11.56). Note. — Meals are not included in price for tickets on the Channel steamers, but they are served at reasonable cost. Normandy and Brittany. A tour of Normandy and Brittany may be made over the following route: — London (Waterloo Station), Southampton; steamer to Havre; rail to Rouen, Paris, Orleans, Blois, Amboise, Tours, Chenonceaux, and return to Tours; Loches, and return to Tours; Langeais, Angers, Nantes, St. Nazaire (steamer, Nantes to St. Nazaire, if preferred), Le Croisic, Guerande, Pont Chateau, Redon, Vannes, Quiberon (Belle- Ile-en-Mer), L'Orient, Concarneau, Quimper, Pont l'Abbe, Brest, Roscoff, Morlaix, Lannion, Guingamp, Dinan, St. Malo; steamer to Jersey, Guernsey, and Southampton; rail to London. Tickets: 1st class, 135*. Sd. ($33.91); 2d class, 103*. Sd. ($25.81). Tickets good for two months, and may be extended for another month by payment of 10 per cent, of the cost of the ticket ($3.39 or $2.58). Travellers may stop over at any or all of these places in France by presenting the tickets to be stamped immedi- 73 EUROPEAN GUIDE ately upon arrival at each station where journey is broken. In Belgium. London by rail to Harwich; steamer to Ant- werp; rail to Brussels, Rochefort, Dinant; steamer to Namur; rail to Brussels, Antwerp; steamer to Harwich; rail to London. Tickets good for one month. 1st class, 60s. 8d. ($15.16); 2d class, 40s. 5d. ($10.10). The above trip may include Paris, from Brus- sels and return. Round-trip tickets: 1st class, F. 53.15 ($10.63); 2d class, R 38.75 ($7.75). A trip from London to Antwerp and Brussels and return will cost: 1st class, 48s. Qd. ($12.12); 2d class, 305. lid. ($7.72). Tickets good for 13 days. Belgium and the Rhine. London to Harwich ; steamer to Antwerp ; rail to Brussels, Namur, Dinant, Luxembourg, Metz, Treves, Coblenz; steamer on Rhine to Neu- wied, Remagen, Rolandseck, Godesberg, Bonn, Cologne, Diisseldorf; rail to Arnheim (Holland), Utrecht, Gouda, Rotterdam; steamer to Har- wich; rail to London. Tickets: 1st class, 108s. lid. ($27.22); 2d class, 75s. Sd. ($18.81). 74 EUROPEAN GUIDE Tickets good for 45 days. Trip may include Paris, from Brussels and return: 1st class, F. 53.15 ($10.63); 2d class, F. 38.75 ($7.75). In Holland. No. 1. London to Harwich; steamer to Hook of Holland; rail to Rotterdam, The Hague, Leyden, Haarlem, Amsterdam, Hook of Hol- land; steamer to Harwich; rail to London Tickets: 1st class, 53s. 4d. ($13.33); 2d class, 34s. Id. ($8.52). Tickets good for 14 days. No. 2. London to Harwich; steamer to Ant- werp; rail to Brussels, Rotterdam, Delft, The Hague, Leyden, Haarlem, Amsterdam, Rotter- dam, Hook of Holland; steamer to Harwich: rail to London. Tickets: 1st class, 68s. Id. ($17.02); 2d class, 45s. 5d. ($11.35). Tickets good for 30 days. Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Austria, and Germany. London to Harwich; steamer to Antwerp: rail to Brussels, Luxembourg, Metz, Strassburg, Basle, Lucerne; steamer on Lake of Four 75 EUROPEAN GUIDE Cantons to Fliielen; rail over St. Gotthard route to Milan, Genoa, Pisa, Florence, Bologna, Venice, Verona, Ala, Innsbruck, Munich, Nurem- berg, Frankfort, Mayence ; steamer all day on the Rhine to Cologne, Brussels, Antwerp; steamer to Harwich; rail to London. Tickets: 1st class, 2735. 2d. ($68.29); 2d class, 1945. Id. ($48.52). Tickets good for 60 days. This trip may include Paris, from Brussels and return. Tickets, return: 1st class, F. 53.15 ($10.63); 2d class, F. 38.75 ($7.75). Scandinavia and Russia. No. 1. Hull by Wilson Line steamer to Stavan- ger and Bergen; steamer by the western fjords to Molde and Trondhjem, thence to Hammerfest and the North Cape (Land of the Midnight Sun) ; return to Trondhjem, rail to Upsala and Stock- holm; steamer to Abo, Helsingfors, Gulf of Finland, and St. Petersburg; steamer to Stock- holm, thence by the Trolhattan Falls to Gothen- burg; steamer 'to Hull. Tickets, 503s. ($125.75). Tickets good for 90 days. No. 2. Hull by Wilson Line steamer to Stavan- ger and Bergen; steamer by the western fjords to Trondhjem; express steamer to Hammerfest and the North Cape (Land of the Midnight Sun) ; 76 EUROPEAN GUIDE return to Trondhjem, stopping at the Lofoten Islands; rail to Upsala and Stockholm; steamer to St. Petersburg; return, stopping at Helsingfors and Hango, Stockholm; by rail to Jonkoping and Gothenburg; steamer to Hull. Tickets, 582s. ($145.50). Tickets good for 90 days. Scandinavia, Russia, Germany, Austro-Hun- gary, and France. Hull by Wilson Line steamer to Christiania; rail to Eidsvold, Lake Mjosen, Hamar, Storen, Trondhjem; express steamer to Hammerfest and the North Cape (Land of the Midnight Sun); return to Trondhjem, with a stop at the Lofoten Islands; rail to Ostersund, Upsala, Stockholm; steamer to Hango, Helsingfors, St. Petersburg; steamer through Lake Malar (The Pride of Sweden), Lake Weter, Lake Wener, Trol- hattan Falls, Gothenburg; rail to Helsingborg; ferry to Denmark, Elsinore; rail to Copenhagen; rail to Masnedsund; ferry to Orehoved; rail to Gjedser; steamer to Warnemunde; rail to Berlin, Dresden, Prague, Vienna; steamer on the Danube to Budapest; rail to Vienna, Salzburg, Munich, Ausburg, Stuttgart, Strassburg, Chalons, Paris, Amiens, Calais; steamer to Dover; rail to 77 EUROPEAN GUIDE Canterbury, London. Tickets, 1st class, 7435. ($185.75). Tickets good for 90 days. Thomas Wilson's Sons & Co., Hull, England, will send full information in regard to holiday tours in Norway, Sweden, and Russia. P. H. Matthiessen & Co., 25 Queen Street, Newcastle-on-Tyne, England, will send full in- formation in regard to pleasure cruises among the Norwegian fjords. The Albion Steamship Company, Limited, Bal- tic Chambers, Newcastle-on-Tyne, England, will send full information in regard to summer cruises by finely appointed yachting steamers. Landing in France. If passengers land in France to begin the jour- ney at Paris, advantageous arrangements for circular tickets may be made. The route may lead to Geneva, Chamounix, and Aix-les-Bains ; or on to Zermatt and to Italy by way of the Sim- plon; or to Neuchatel, Berne, Interlaken, and Lucerne, and to Italy by way of the St. Gotthard railway. If desired, the route may lead north to Belgium and Holland, thence across Germany to Berlin, and on to Vienna. Austria; or to Cologne, to 78 EUROPEAN GUIDE enjoy the romantic sail on the Rhine, and so reach Switzerland and return to Paris. Trips from Paris. No. 1. Paris to Dijon, Neuchatel, Bienne, Berne, Lausanne, Geneva, Aix-les-Bains, Cham- bery, Modane, Mt. Cenis route to Turin, Milan, Venice, Florence, Pisa, Genoa, Ventimiglia, Men- tone, Monte Carlo, Nice, Cannes, Marseilles, Lyons, Paris. Tickets: 1st class, F. 273.50 ($54.70); 2d class, F. 198.20 ($39.64). Tickets good for 60 days. From Geneva a trip may be made to Chamounix by coach over the Tete Noire Pass to Martigny; rail to Bouveret; steamer on Lake Geneva to Geneva. Tickets: 1st class, F. 34 ($6.80); 2d class, F. 28 ($5.60). Tickets good for 15 days. No. 2. Paris to Basle, Lucerne, St. Gotthard route to Milan, Verona, Venice, Padua, Bologna, Florence, Rome, Pisa, Genoa, Mentone, Monte Carlo, Nice, Marseilles, Lyons, Paris. Tickets: 1st class, F. 300 ($60);' 2d class, F. 220.35 -.07). Tickets good for 60 days. 79 EUROPEAN GUIDE No. 3. Paris to Bar-le-duc, Nancy, Strassburg, Appenweier, Baden-Baden, Carlsruhe, Stuttgart, Augsburg, Munich, Innsbruck (Tyrol), Feld- kirch, Sargans, Zurich, Basle, Belfort, Chaumont, Paris. Tickets: 1st class, F. 180.25 ($36.05); 2d class, F. 127.90 ($25.58). Tickets good for 30 days. No. 4. Paris to Basle, Schaffhausen, Constance (on Lake Constance), Romanshorn, Buchs, Ragatz, Coire, Thusis, Coire, Landquart, Ragatz, Rapperswyl, Zurich, Basle, Paris. Tickets: 1st class, F. 127.50 ($25.50); 2d class, F. 91 ($18.20). Tickets good for 30 days. In connection with this trip the route may be extended in the Engadine over some of the famous passes. Thusis (over the Splugen Pass), Chia- venna (over the Maloja Pass), St. Moritz, Sama- den (Pontresina), Julier Pass, Thusis. Tickets, coaches, F. 45.55 ($9.11). From Landquart to Davos-Platz and return to Landquart. Tickets: 1st class, F. 24 ($4.80); 2d class, F. 16 ($3.20). No. 5. Paris to Troyes, Belfort, Miihlhausen, Basle, Lucerne, Briinig Pass, Brienz, Lake Brienz, Interlaken, Lake Thun, Berne, Bienne, Neuchatel (Lake Neuchatel), Pontarlier, Dijon, 80 EUROPEAN GUIDE Paris. Tickets: 1st class, F. 125 ($25); 2d class, F. 94 ($18.80). No. 6. Paris to Nancy, Strassburg, Carlsruhe, Heidelberg, Wiirzburg, Nuremberg, Munich, Lindau, Constance, Zurich, Rheinfelden, Schaff- hausen (Falls of the Rhine), Basle, Troyes, Paris. Tickets: 1st class, F. 163.75 ($32.75); 2d class, F. 119.80 ($23.96). Tickets good for 30 days. No. 7. Paris to Belfort, Basle, Lucerne, Briinig Pass; steamer on Lake Brienz to Interlaken; steamer on Lake Thun ; rail to Bienne, Lausanne ; steamer on Lake Geneva to Geneva; rail to Macon, Dijon, Paris. Tickets: 1st class, F. 135 ($27); 2d class, F. 101 ($20.20). Tickets good for 30 days. No. 8. Paris to Dijon, Neuchatel, Basle, Zurich, Zug (Lake Zug), Arth, Goldau, to summit of Rigi and down to Vitznau; steamer on Lake of Four Cantons to Lucerne; rail over Briinig Pass to Brienz; steamer on Lake of Brienz to Inter- laken; steamer on Lake Thun to Spiez; rail over Gemmi Pass, Loueche, Sion, Martigny, Vevey, Lausanne, Geneva, Dijon, Paris. Tickets: 1st 81 EUROPEAN GUIDE class, F. 202.90 ($40.58); 2d class, F. 153 ($30.60). Tickets good for 45 days. Day Trips from Paris. 1. From Paris by tramway (near Church of the Madeleine) to St. Denis. Visit the famous Cathedral, with tombs of French kings and queens, and return to Paris. 2. From Paris (at right of Arch of Triumph) take train for Rueil. Visit church with tombs of Josephine and Hortense; also Malmaison, the home of Josephine. Take train again, and go on to St. Germain to see the Museum (on site of old Palace of St. Germain). Walk on the ter- race, and engage carriage for a drive of one hour in the splendid Forest. Half a day each is sufficient for trips No. 1 and No. 2. 3. From Paris take boat on the Seine, at the Pont Royal, for St. Cloud. At the left of the landing walk up the hill to the site of the old Palace, and visit gardens and park. Return to Paris by tramway along the Seine. 4. From Paris by train (from St. Lazare sta- tion) to Versailles. Trains start every few 82 EUROPEAN GUIDE minutes. Tickets: 1st class, F. 1.50 (30 cents); 2d class, F. 1.15 (23 cents), each way. Trains for Versailles, on left bank of Seine, start from station on the Boulevard Mont-Par- nasse. At station in Versailles take carriage, and drive through the Park to the Grand Trianon Palace, to the State Carriages, and to the Little Trianon Palace. Walk through the Park of the latter Palace to the Swiss Village of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette. Return by carriage to the town, have luncheon at some restaurant near the Rue de Reservoir. After luncheon walk up the hill to the Grand Palace. Devote the afternoon to the Palace and gardens. Take tramway car at left of Palace on the way out. Return to station, and take train for Paris. 5. From Paris take a trip around the city by the "Ceinture," or Belt Line, from St. Lazare station. This gives an excellent idea of the city. From Paris to the Chateau and Park at Vin- cennes. Take train from the Vincennes station in the Place Bastile; or take tramway car that starts from near the Louvre; or take the subway train at the Palais Royal station. Open on Saturdays from 12, noon, to 4 p.m. EUROPEAN GUIDE 6. From Paris to the great Palace at Fontaine- bleau. Take train at the Lyons station, Boule- vard Diderot. This trip may be made in a day by taking a train at 8 a.m. ; leaving Fontainebleau at 9.49 p.m., and arriving in Paris at 11.30 p.m. Tickets: 1st class, F. 6.60 ($1.32); 2d class, F. 4.45 (89 cents), each way. Landing at Gibraltar. From Gibraltar, by making a stop-over be- tween the sailings of ships, very enjoyable trips may be made to Morocco and through Spain. Landing at Gibraltar is made by a tender, and at Tangier and Cadiz by strong boats. One must go from Gibraltar to Naples by the same steam- ship lines for which the tickets are held. Im- mediately upon arrival at Gibraltar go to the office of the steamship line, and arrange to sail upon the desired date. Thomas Cook & Son, Waterport Street, corner Parliament Lane, will also attend to this matter of sailing. Tickets for all trips in Morocco and Spain should be taken from Cook's, where full information will be given relative to the details of a journey. Money should be exchanged at Cook's, where values will be explained. A good line of steamers runs between Gibraltar, 84 EUROPEAN GUIDE Tangier, and Cadiz, but only first-class tickets should be used. To reach the Spanish railway lines, take the ferry that runs between Gibraltar and Algeciras, where is also the Spanish customs examination. All trains from Algeciras run to Bobadilla, from which point they branch for Malaga, Granada, Seville, Cordova, and Madrid. Second-class cars are fairly comfortable on Spanish railways, but the service in connection with first-class cars is enough better to pay for the additional cost. Trains are run carefully, but slowly. Nearly all long distances are cov- ered by night travel, for which there is often an extra charge, aside from the cost for the sleeping-cars. Care must be taken to provide a luncheon for the trains, as it is impossible for a stranger to get anything satisfactory to eat in the short stops made at stations where there are restaurants. The hotels understand this matter of luncheons, and provide good ones in pretty grass-woven baskets. The hotels are good in Spain. Of course, they are not like those in America, but they offer the accommodation that the Spanish con- sider desirable, and we go to Spain to see Spain. 85 EUROPEAN GUIDE Fine electric car service is available for nearly all sight-seeing, and every courtesy is shown a visitor. In Tangier only the best hotels should be used. There are no street-cars, no carriages, no sidewalks, and no published newspapers. One finds here all the conditions of life in the Orient. In Gibraltar there are only carriages for the visitor. During a stop of a few hours a carriage should be engaged. A bargain must be made, and a tip of Is. (25 cents) should be given the driver. A carriage for four persons, for the regulation drive (not to include crossing the Neutral Ground), can be hired for 10s. ($2.50). If the drive is extended across the Neutral Ground, pay 4s. ($1) extra. Baggage at Gibraltar. If one does not wish to take trunks upon a little journey in Spain, Thomas Cook & Son will store them carefully. By all means plan for light baggage in Spain, if merely to save time in look- ing after it. On no account allow any baggage to go forward with the ship to Naples. Take it all ashore at Gibraltar. 86 EUROPEAN GUIDE Trips from Gibraltar. 1. For a stop-over of 1 week. Cross by steamer to Tangier (Sh hours), 1 day; steamer to Cadiz and in Cadiz, 1 day; to Seville and in Seville, 2 days; to Granada and in Granada, 2 days; to Gibraltar and in Gibraltar, 1 day. Tickets: 1st class, 1045. Sd. ($26.06); 1st class steamer, 2d class rail, 85s. Sd. ($21.41). Tickets good for 25 days. 2. For a stop-over of 14 days. Cross by steamer to Tangier (3j hours), 1 day; steamer to Cadiz and in Cadiz, 2 days; to Seville and in Seville, 4 days; to Cordova, 1 day; to and in Granada, 4 days; to Ronda, 1 day; to Gibraltar, 1 day. Tickets: 1st class, 96s. 9d. ($24.18); 1st class steamer, 2d class rail, 80s. ($20). Tickets good for 25 days. 3. For a stop-over of 21 days. Cross by steamer to Tangier and in Tangier, 2 days ; by steamer to Cadiz and in Cadiz, 2 days; to Seville and in Seville, 4 days; to Madrid and in Madrid, 6 days; to Cordova, 1 day; to and in Granada, 4 days; to Ronda, 1 day; to Gibraltar, 1 day. Tickets: 1st class, 179.9. 6d. ($44.87); 1st class steamer, 2d class rail, 144s. 7c?. ($36.14). 87 EUROPEAN GUIDE Landing at Algiers. Occasionally, during the winter and early spring, the White Star Line makes stops at Algiers after leaving Gibraltar. If a stop-over can be arranged between sail- ings, Algiers will be found most delightful. There is the perfection of modern civilization, and the picturesque life of the Moorish part of the city, with veiled Arabian women, crowds of people in odd costumes, and bazaars full of attractive wares. Some trips of remarkable interest may be made from Algiers into country that is like a new world to an American. In three weeks one can see all of Algiers, and go by rail to places on the edge of the Great Des- ert where caravans come pouring in with their treasures from Sahara; one may drive to an oasis, see ruins of the Roman occupation here in North Africa; and may visit Tunis with its palaces of the Bey, and enjoy a sight of the ruins of Carthage. Take only hand-baggage from Algiers. Trips from Algiers. 1. Algiers to Constantine and in Constantine, 2 days; to El Guerrah and on to Biskra, 1 day; 88 EUROPEAN GUIDE in Biskra (on the edge of the Sahara), 3 days; to Constantine, 1 day; to Algiers, 1 day. Tickets: 1st class, F. 142.50 ($28.50) ; 2d class, F. 105 ($21), round trips. 2. Algiers to Constantine and in Constantine, 2 days; to El Guerrah, 1 day; to Biskra and in Biskra, 3 days; to Bone and in Bone, 2 days; to Tunis and in Tunis, 5 days; to Constantine, 1 day; to Algiers, 1 day. Round-trip tickets: 1st class, F. 275 ($55); 2d class, F. 205 ($41). If more time may be allowed, there is a return from Tunis to Algiers by steamer that is very enjoyable. The sailings from Tunis are on Thursdays at 10 a.m., and stops are made at the following ports: — Thursday, 3.00 p.m., Bizerta, lv. at 8.30 p.m. Friday, 3.00 a.m., Tabarca lv. at 5.30 a.m. Friday, 7.00 a.m., La Calle, lv. at 10.30 a.m. Friday, 1.30 p.m., Bone, lv. at 10 p.m. Saturday, 3.30 a.m., Phillippeville, lv. at 12, noon. Saturday, 2.00 p.m., Collo, lv. at 10 p.m. Sunday, 2.30 a.m., Djidjelly, lv. at 9 a.m. Sunday, 12.00 noon, Bougie, lv. at 7.30 p.m. Monday, 6.00 a.m., Algiers. Tickets: 1st class, F. 100 ($20). These tickets may be obtained at "Bank of Tunis," No. 3 Rue-es-Sadikia, Tunis. 89 EUROPEAN GUIDE Side-trips from Tunis. By train to La Morsa ; by carriage to the light- house of Sidi-bou-Said ; by carriage to Carthage. Take a luncheon, and enjoy it at the light-house. Visit the ruins of Carthage, and return by train to Tunis. From Tunis by train to Bizerta and return, having 7 hours to visit the unique attractions of this Oriental city, with its remarkable canal and lake. Restaurant at the railway station. Landing at Genoa. If the steamer stops at Genoa before going on to Naples, one has time to get a very good general idea of the city. Electric cars at the head of the pier take one to the business centre, the Piazza Deferrari, from which car-lines lead to all impor- tant points. Carriage hire is only 1.50 lira (30 cents) an hour, with 15 centesimi (15 cents) for each succeeding hour, and a drive of three hours will be very satis- factory. Carriage with 2 horses costs 2 lire (40 cents) an hour, with 1 lira (20 cents) for each succeeding half-hour. An electric car leaves from the Piazza Defer- 90 EUROPEAN GUIDE rari for the Campo Santo, at Staglieno. Half an hour each way. Car-fares, 25 cent. (5 cents) each way. Visit this Campo Santo without fail. A cable tramway from the Piazza della Zecca takes the visitor to the Castellaccio Righi, where there is a superb view. Twenty minutes each way. Car-fares, 50 cent. (10 cents), round trip. Landing at Naples. Visitors landing at Naples find the customs examination at the pier, and will have no diffi- culty in passing this. The officials are courteous, and the porters zealous to help a stranger. The confusion and chatter is only a part of what makes up Neapolitan life, and, if under- stood, is most amusing. Follow the baggage closely, with the porters. Do not open it till an officer is ready to look at it. See that he marks it to pass the officer at the door. If one is going to a hotel, the porter of that hotel (with its name on his cap) will assist with the baggage, and will see it safely through the customs and pay all the necessary tips and fees. He will keep strict account of this, and may be entirely trusted. Settlement can be made with him later. If one is going to a pension, it is only necessary 91 EUROPEAN GUIDE to write to such an address in advance, and upon request a man will be sent to the pier, with the house name on his cap, and he will render careful and honest service. If a carriage is taken instead of a hotel omni- bus, allow the proprietor of the pension (or the man whom he has sent) to pay for it. A trunk may be taken on the front of the carriage. Do not leave any baggage at the pier to be sent for later. This is important to remember. Electric cars at the entrance to the pier (going toward the right) take one to the Museum, with its art treasures and all the wealth of its collec- tions from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Going to the left, the visitor reaches theGalleria Humberto and Palace, and, continuing on along the same route, passes through Santa Lucia with its curious scenes, the Villa Nazionale, and on to the height Posilipo. These cars are marked in front as ours are, in the one instance " Museo" and in the other " Posilipo." There are sections in each car for 1st and 2d class passengers, and the 2d class will be found good. Fares are ar- ranged according to distance, and are cheap. In each instance a little ticket of receipt is given when the fare is paid, and occasionally an inspector comes through a car and asks to see it. The electric car service covers the city well. EUROPEAN GUIDE The upper heights are reached by a funicular railway, as well as by the electric cars. Carriages are cheap, but a bargain must be made before starting for any considerable distance. A landau in the city costs for 1 day L. 20 ($4). It seats four persons comfortably. A Victoria in the city for one day, L. 15 ($3). A landau for a day in the country, L. 25 ($5). A Victoria for a day in the country, L. 20 ($4). Trip from Naples. 1. The trip up Vesuvius, by the Mt. Vesuvius railway, which is owned by Thomas Cook & Son, occupies a day. Tickets, which include the tran- sit from Naples to Pugliano station, the railway, the funicular, and the return to Naples, L. 21 ($4.20). 2. Naples by steamer to Island of Capri and Blue Grotto; land at Capri for 3 hours; steamer to Naples. Tickets, 1st class, L. 12 ($2.40). 3. Naples by steamer to Island of Capri and Blue Grotto ; land at Capri for 3 hours ; steamer to Sorrento; carriage to Castellamare and Pom- peii; rail to Naples. Tickets: 1st class, for one person, L. 19.60 ($3.92); 1st class steamer, 2d EUROPEAN GUIDE class rail, L. 18.65 ($3.73). For two persons, 1st class, L. 30.90 ($6.18); 1st class steamer, 2d class rail, L. 29 ($5.80). Reduction in proportion for three and four persons. 4. Naples by steamer to Island of Capri and Blue Grotto: land at Capri for 3 hours; steamer to Sorrento; carriage to Amalfi; carriage to La Cave; rail to Pompeii; rail to Naples. Tickets for one person: 1st class steamer, L. 33 ($6.60) 1st class steamer, 2d class rail, L. 31.50 ($6.30) For two persons: 1st class, L. 47.60 ($9.52) 2d class rail, L. 44 ($8.80). For three persons: 1st class, L. 76.90 ($15.38) 1st class steamer, 2d class rail, L. 71.50 ($14.30) For four persons: 1st class, L. 91.20 ($18.24) 1st class steamer, 2d class rail, L. 84 ($16.80). Ticket good for 30 days. 5. A trip may be made from La Cave to Pses- tum and return, to visit the ruins of the splendid Greek Temples, for an additional cost: 1st class, L. 9 ($1.80); 2d class, L. 6.40 ($1.28). Entrance to Pompeii is free on Thursdays, but many of the houses are closed and no guides are provided. On all other days, admission, 2 L. (40 cents), with guides provided. Time from Naples to Pompeii, 1 hour. Tickets, 94 EUROPEAN GUIDE return: 1st class, L. 4.30 (86 cents); 2d class, L. 3.10 (62 cents). Herculaneum is beneath Resina. Take elec- tric tramway at the Piazza del Municipio for Torre del Greco, and this passes the entrance. Inscription over the entrance, "Scavi di Erco- lano." Admission, L. 2 (40 cents), with guide provided. On Sunday, admission free. Sicily. For the traveller who seeks something a little out of the ordinary path of the tourist there is the enchanting Island of Sicily, so full of history and the stories of mythology, in the days "When the heavens were nearer to us, And the gods were more familiar." Each night of the week a steamer leaves Naples for Palermo, which is a better way to go than by Messina. Steamers sail from the Im- macolatella Nuova at 7.25 p.m., and arrive at Palermo early the next morning. Tickets, 1st class, L. 34.25 ($6.85). Meals are extra. A good dinner is served on board at 8 p.m., but it is wiser to have dinner on shore, and to see that it is a simple one. If tickets are purchased through Thomas Cook 95 EUROPEAN GUIDE & Son, Naples, for a round-trip journey in Sicily, state-rooms will be engaged and reserved by them. At least two days should be allowed for securing desirable accommodations, as the steamers are always full. Porters come on board the steamer at Palermo, and take the baggage to the pier, where there is a customs examination. Hotel omnibuses and carriages are at hand for the accommodation of visitors. Electric tram cars at the head of the pier may be used by those who have only hand-baggage. In two days one may gain a good idea of Palermo, enjoy the attraction of its gardens, promenades by the sea, and the pretty shops, and may make a trip of half a day to Monreale, to visit the splen- did church and cloisters. The electric tram car starts from the Piazza Bologni, and reaches Mon- reale in 35 minutes. Car-fares : Palermo to Mon- reale, 50 cent. (10 cents); Monreale to Palermo, 40 cent. (8 cents). At Rocca the tramway car is placed in front of an electric engine, and pushed up the hill. Trips in Sicily. Palermo to Messina, Giardini, Taormina, Catania, Syracuse, Palermo. Tickets: 1st class, L. 75.85 ($15.17); 2d class, L. 53.15 ($10.63). 96 EUROPEAN GUIDE The railway ride from Palermo to Messina is most beautiful. On the right are mountains whose spurs are crowned with towns and ruined castles. The lower slopes are covered with groves of lemons, oranges, and olives. On the left is the wide stretch of the sea with a far view of the Lipari Islands. From Messina it is a short railway ride to Giardini, where a carriage is taken for a drive over the magical road to Taormina. This town lies along a spur in the mountains. Towering heights rise above its ruined Greek Theatre. In the near distance ^Etna, "the great white mother," gleams against the blue sky, and the sea lies at its feet. The railway lies along by the sea to Catania, which is at the foot of iEtna, and built upon vast lava beds. Beyond is old Syracuse, with its wind-swept, level ruins of Greek, Saracen, and Roman occupa- tion. Thence inland, across Sicily and back to Palermo. A trip to Girgenti to visit its notable Greek ruins will cost in addition: 1st class, L. 15.40 ($3.08); 2d class, L. 10.80 ($2.16). There is a circular trip around the base of iEtna that is interesting. It may be taken on the way from Taormina to Catania by changing 97 EUROPEAN GUIDE cars at Giarre. The cost of the trip from Giarre to Catania is: 1st class, L. 9.35 ($1.87); 2d class, L. 7.10 ($1.42). By leaving Giardini (Taormina) at 10.14 a.m., one arrives at Giarre at 10.42 a.m. The station for the " Circumetnea " railway, as it is called, is near the regular main line station, and the train leaves at 11.26 a.m. A stop is made at all the towns, and one gets a rare opportunity to see the whole mountain, its characteristics and what the eruptions have done. Catania is reached at 6.38 p.m. Leave the train at the station "Borgo Catania," where carriage may be taken to hotel. Dining-car Service in Sicily. There is now a regular dining-car on all the through trains in Sicily. When arranging to start from Palermo, Messina, Catania, Syracuse, or Girgenti, ask for trains that provide this ser- vice. Light breakfast is L. 1.25 (25 cents); luncheon, with wine included, L. 3 (60 cents); dinner, with wine included, L. 4 (80 cents.) At the railway station, Buffet Catania, the charge for a meal, table d'hote, with wine in- cluded, is L. 3.50 (70 cents). 98 EUROPEAN GUIDE The best season for visiting Sicily is in the early spring and the early summer. The weather is then perfect. If one can remain a month or six weeks in the island, it is feasible to go in February. Upon cold days it will not be necessary to do any sight-seeing. When time is limited, every day and hour must be occupied, whatever the weather. There is excellent electric car service in Palermo and Catania. No driving is needed in Messina, to see it all. As there are no street-cars in Syra- cuse, and the distances to be covered in sight-seeing are very great, carriages should be engaged by the day. Two days will cover it well, but five days would be much more satisfactory. Landing at Trieste, Travellers arriving at Trieste, Austria, by the Mediterranean route of the Cunard line, may take finely appointed steamers of the Austrian Lloyd Line for an ideal trip along the coast of Dalmatia. The steamers leave Trieste on Thursdays at 8 a.m. ; Friday, 12.15 a.m., at Spoleto; Friday, 7.45 a.m., at Ragusa; Friday, 11.15 a.m., at Cattaro, one of the most beautiful spots in the world. 99 EUROPEAN GUIDE Steamers also sail for these ports on Tuesdays and Fridays, with arrivals upon the same relative days and hours. Fares to Spoleto: 1st class, Krone 20.04 ($4.08); 2d class, K. 13.50 ($2.70). Fares to Ragusa: 1st class, K. 32.40 ($6.48); 2d class, K. 21.60 ($4.32). Fares to Cattaro: 1st class, K 39 ($7.80); 2d class, K. 26 ($5.20). Price for berths not included in the fares. Trips to Fiume, the busy port of Hungary, may be made by steamer or rail. From Fiume steamers sail frequently to the beautiful sea- side resort of Abazzia, where there are many attractions for the visitor. From Trieste to Vienna the journey is 12 hours. Tickets: 1st class, K. 61.20 ($12.24); 2d class, K. 45.90 ($9.18). A substantial luncheon must be provided for the train. From Trieste to Venice by rail: tickets, 1st class, K. 21.60 ($4.32); 2d class, K. 14.65 ($2.93). The journey occupies 5 hours. Route, via Nabresina, Monfalcone, Cervignano, and Portogruaro. Landing at Bremen. Steamships of the North German Lloyd Line land passengers at Bremerhaven, 44 miles from Bremen. Through express trains from the pier connect with trains for all points in Europe. Customs examinations at the pier, as at all ports of landing. The same methods apply as to por- ters and baggage. Note. — Special train of sleeping-cars leaves Berlin, from Lehrter Station, at 10.40 p.m., day previous to ship-sailings, going directly to Bremer- 100 EUROPEAN GUIDE haven. Apply to office of company, 5 and 6 Unter den Linden. TICKETS FROM BREMEN. Bremen to Berlin: 1st class, M. 32.00 ($8), 6 hours. 2d class, M. 24.00 ($6). Bremen to Cologne: 1st class, M. 30.60 ($7.65), 5 hours. 2d class, M. 22.60 ($5.65). Bremen to Dresden: 1st class, M. 46.80 ($11.70), 10 hours. 2d class, M. 34.60 ($8.65). Bremen to Frankfort: 1st class, M. 43.80 ($10.95), 9 hours. 2d class, M. 32.40 ($8.10). Bremen to Hamburg: 1st class, M. 11.00 ($2.75), 1£ hours. 2d class, M. 8.00 ($2). Bremen to London: 1st class (Harwich), M. 56.00 ($14), 15 1 hours. 2d class (Harwich), M. 38.80 ($9.70). Bremen to Paris: 1st class, M. 75.40 ($18.85), 17 hours. 2d class, M. 56.40 ($14.10). Landing at Hamburg. Steamships of the Hamburg-American Line land passengers at Cuxhaven for Hamburg. Bag- gage is examined at the pier, following methods as at other landing ports. Special trains of vestibuled compartment cor- 101 EUROPEAN GUIDE ridor cars take passengers in two hours to Ham- burg. Connections made with express trains for all points in Europe. Note. — Special trains leave Berlin for Cuxhaven on days of ship-sailings for New York. Tickets, Berlin to Cuxhaven: 1st class, M. 26.20 ($6.55); 2d class, M. 19.40 ($4.85). Tickets obtained at company office, 5 Unter den Linden, Berlin. TICKETS FROM HAMBURG. Hamburg to Berlin: 1st class, M. 18.80 ($4.70), 3f hours. 2d class, M. 15.60 ($3 90). " Cologne: 1st class, M. 40.40 ($10.10), 8 hours. 2d class, M. 30.00 ($7.50). " London: 1st class, M. 73.32 ($18.33), 19* hours. 2d class, M. 54.40 ($13.60). " " Paris: 1st class, M. 83.52 ($20.88), 18 hours. 2d class, M. 60.88 ($15.22). 102 Chapter V. EUROPEAN RAILWAY FARES. Single Tickets from Amsterdam to Berlin: 1st class, G. 33.32 ($13.33), 11£ hrs. 2d class, G. 25.00 ($10). " Brussels: 1st class, G. 10.45 ($4.18), 5 hours. 2d class, G. 7.85 ($3.14). " Cologne: 1st class, G. 12.42 ($4.96), 5 hours. 2d class, G. 9.37 ($3.75). " Paris: 1st class, G. 28.58 ($11.43), 10£ hrs. 2d class, G. 20.28 ($8.10). Berlin to Cologne: 1st class, M. 52.20 ($13.05), 9J hours. 2d class, M. 38.70 ($9.67). " Dresden: 1st class, M. 16.30 ($4.08), 3 hours. 2d class, M. 12.20 ($3.05). " Frankfort: 1st class, M. 48.60 ($12.15), 8f hours. 2d class, M. 36.00 ($9). " Hanover: 1st class, M. 23.40 ($5.85), 4$ hours. 2d class, M. 17.30 ($4.33). " Leipzig: 1st class, M. 14.70 ($3.68), 3£ hours. 2d class, M. 10.90 ($2.73). " Munich: 1st class, M. 59.70 ($14.93), 12| hours. 2d class, M. 43.20 ($10.80). Brussels to Antwerp: 1st class, F. 4.30 ($0.86), f hour. 2d class, F. 2.90 ($0.58). 103 EUROPEAN GUIDE Brussels to Basle: 1st class, F. 63.60 ($12.72), 12 hours. 2d class, F. 45.90 ($9.18). " Berlin: 1st class, F. 89.00 ($17.80), 16 hours. 2d class, F. 66.10 ($13.22). " Cologne: 1st class, F. 23.60 ($4.72), 5 hours. 2d class, F. 17.60 ($3.52). " Hamburg: 1st class, F. 67.50 ($13.50), 12 hours. 2d class, F. 51.10 ($10.22). " Paris: 1st class, F. 34.35 ($6.87), 5 hours. 2d class, F. 23.75 ($4.75). Cologne to Antwerp: 1st class, M. 20.00 ($5), 5h hours. 2d class, M. 15.00 ($3.75). " Baden-Baden: 1st class, M. 34.40 ($8.60), 7* hrs. 2d class, M. 24.90 ($6.22). " Basle: 1st class, M. 46.50 ($11.62), 8 hours. 2d class, M. 33.60 ($8.40). " Copenhagen: 1st class, M. 66.70 ($16.67) , 20* hrs. 2d class, M. 51.00 ($12.75). " Dresden: 1st class, M. 58.80 ($14.70), 12 hrs. 2d class, M. 43.60 ($10.90). " Heidelberg: 1st class, M. 25.70 ($6.42), 5£ hrs. 2d class, M. 18.70 ($4.67). " Leipzig: 1st class, M. 47.90 ($11.97), 9f hrs. 2d class, M. 35.50 ($8.87). " Lucerne: 1st class, M. 55.32 ($13.83), lOf hrs. 2d class, M. 39.92 ($9.98). 104 EUROPEAN GUIDE Cologne to Milan: 1st class, M. 84.00 ($21), 18$ hours. 2d class, M. 60.00 ($15). " Munich: 1st class, M. 57.40 ($14.35), 12$ hours. 2d class, M. 41.40 ($10.35). " Paris: 1st class, M. 42.60 ($10.65), 9 hours. 2d class, M. 30.40 (7.60). " Vienna: 1st class, M. 91.30 ($22.82), 21 hours. 2d class, M. 62.70 ($15.67). Florence to Bologna: 1st class, L. 15.45 ($3.09), 3f hours. 2d class, L. 10.80 ($2.16). " " Milan: 1st class, L. 40.55 ($8.11), 8 hours. 2d class, L. 28.35 ($5.67). " " Pisa: 1st class, L. 9.20 ($1.84), 3$ hours. 2d class, L. 6.45 ($1.29). " " Rome: 1st class, L. 40.35 ($8.07), 5$ hours. 2d class, L. 28.25 ($5.65). " " Venice: 1st class, L. 34.05 ($6.81), 8$ hours. 2d class, L. 23.80 ($4.76). Geneva to Basle: 1st class^F. 25.10 ($5.02), 6$ hours. 2d cla#, F. 17.60 ($3.52). " Lucerne: 1st class, F. 26.35 ($5.27), 7 hours. 2d class, F. 18.50 ($3.70). " Marseilles: 1st class, F. 58.10 ($11.62), 12 hours. 2d class, F. 39.25 ($7.85). " Milan: 1st class, F. 44.65 ($8.90), 8 hours. 2d class, F. 30.85 ($6.17). 105 EUROPEAN GUIDE Geneva to Paris: 1st class, F. 70.15 ($14.03), 10 hours. 2d class, F. 47.30 ($9.46). " Zurich: 1st class, F. 28.50 ($5.70), 7 hours. 2d class, F. 20.00 ($4). Genoa to Marseilles: 1st class, L. 46.80 ($9.36), 14£ hours. 2d class, L. 32.05 ($6.41). " Nice: 1st class, L. 21.60 ($4.32), 9 hours. 2d class, L. 15.00 ($3). " Mentone: 1st class, L. 18.90 ($3.78), 8 hours. 2d class, L. 13.20 ($2.64). " Milan: 1st class, L. 26.00 ($5.20), 3J hours. 2d class, L. 18.20 ($3.64). " Pisa: 1st class, L. 19.15 ($3.83), 4$ hours. 2d class, L. 13.40 ($2.68). " Rome: 1st class, L. 57.90 ($11.58), 11J hours. 2d class, L. 40.55 ($8.11). Gibraltar to Cadiz: (steamer) £1 2s. lid. ($5.72). " " Madrid: 1st class, £3 ($15), 26* hours. 2d class, £2 7*. ($11.75). " Tangiers: (steamer) 65. lOd. ($1.70), 3£ hours. Liverpool to London: 1st class, 295. ($7.25). 2d class, 205. 8d. ($5.16). 3d class, 165. 6d. ($4.12). £s.d. London to Aix-les-Bains: 1st class, 5-9-8 (27.41), 19 hrs. (via Calais) 2d class, 3-15-7 ($18.89). 106 EUROPEAN GUIDE £ s.d. London to Amsterdam: 1st class, 1-17-1 ($9.27), 11 hours. 2d class, 1-5-6 ($6.37). 1st class, 1-6-0 ($6.50), 12 hours. 2d class, 0-18-0 ($4.50). 1st class, 4-16-8 ($24.16), 14f hours. 2d class, 3-7-1 ($16.77). 1st class, 5-17-3 ($29.31), 22f hours. 2d class, 4-5-4 ($21.33). 1st class, 4-9-9 ($22.43), 18J hours. 2d class, 3-3-2 ($15.79). 1st class, 1-18-10 ($9.70), 8 hours. 2d class, 1-8-4 ($7.08). 1st class, 3-8-10 ($17.20), 20 hours. 2d class, 2-8-9 ($12.18). " Antwerp: " Basle: " Berlin: " Berne: " Brussels: " Brunswick: Chamounix: 1st class, 6-3-3 ($30.81), 24 hours. 2d class 4-4-0 ($21). Coire: 1st class, 5-14-7 ($28.64), 26£ hours 2d class, 4-4-9 ($21.18). Cologne: 1st class, 2-15-0 ($13.75), 13 hours. 2d class, 2-0-0 ($10). Copenhagen: 1st class, 5-1-9 ($25.43), 34| hours. 2d class, 3-14-8 ($18.66). Davos-Platz: 1st class, 6-8-1 ($32.02), 26^ hours. 2d class, 4-9-8 ($22.41). Dieppe: 1st class, 1-8-7 ($7.14), 5\ hours. 2d class, 1-0-0 ($5). 107 EUROPEAN Gl London to Dresden: Florence: Geneva: Genoa: £ s. d. 1st class, 5-15-11 ($28.97), 24Jhours. 2d class, 4-5-3 ($21.31). 1st class, 8-12-4 ($43.08), 37£ hours. 2d class, 5-19-2 ($29.79). 1st class, 4-16-1 ($24.02), 21£ hours. 2d class, 3-7-2 ($16.79), Dieppe. 1st class, 6-9-11 ($32.47), 31* hours. 2d class, 4-10-8 ($22.66). Hague, The: 1st class, 1-12-10 ($8.20), 10 hours. 2d class, 1-2-5 ($5.60). Hamburg: Havre: Innsbruck: Lausanne: Leipzig: Lucerne: Milan: 1st class, 3-13-5 ($18.35), 191 hours. 2d class, 2-12-3 ($13.06). 1st class, 1-8-4 ($7.08), 8| hours. 2d class, 1-0-10 ($5.20). 1st class, 6-17-8 ($34.41), 30J hours. 2d class, 4-15-4 ($23.83). 1st class, 5-4-10 ($26.20), 20£ hours. 2d class, 3-12-8 ($18.16). 1st class, 4-7-4 ($21.83), 22£ hours. 2d class, 3-2-5 ($15.60). 1st class, 5-8-2 ($27.04), 17* hours. 2d class, 3-11-6 ($17.87). 1st class, 7-0-3 ($35.06), 27 hours. 2d class, 4-17-3 ($24.31). Monte Carlo: 1st class, 7-16-6 ($39.12), 26* hours. 2d class, 5-7-3 ($26.81). 108 EUROPEAN GUIDE London to Munich: 1st class, 7-1-8* ($3.5.41), S1J hours. 2d class, 4-18-7 ($24.64). " Naples: 1st class, 11-3-8 ($55.91), 46* hours. 2d class, 7-15-1 ($38.77). " Paris: See Paris to Ixmdon. " Rome: 1st class, 9-0-9 ($45.18), 44| hours. 2d class, 6-6-3 ($31.56). " Rotterdam: 1st class, 1-11-6 ($7.87), 9* hours. 2d class, 1-0-1 ($5.02). " Rouen: 1st class, 1-13-7 ($8.39), 61 hours. 2d class, 1-4-0 ($6). " Vienna: 1st class, 7-9-8 ($37.41), 34 hours. 2d class, 5-4-5 ($26.10). " Wiesbaden: 1st class, 3-9-5 ($17.35), 18 hours. 2d class, 2-8-5 ($12.10). Lucerne to Basle: 1st class, F. 10.00 ($2), 2J hours 2d class, F. 7.00 ($1.40). " Berlin: 1st class, F. 109.15 ($21.83). 2d class, F. 78.60 ($15.72). " Brussels: 1st class, F. 74.35 ($14.87), 14 hours. 2d class, F. 53.40 ($10.68)- " Coire: 1st class, F. 15.50 ($3.10), 4J hours. 2d class, F. 10.90 ($2.18). " Davos-Platz: 1st class, F. 28.50 ($5.70), 8 hours 2d class, F. 19.20 ($3.84). 109 EUROPEAN GUIDE Lucerne to Geneva: 1st class, F. 26.35 ($5.27), 7£ hours. 2d class, F. 18.50 ($3.70). " Genoa: 1st class, F. 54.50 ($10.90), 121 hrs. 2d class, F. 38.20 ($7.64). " Interlaken: 1st class, F. 10.70 ($2.14), 5 hours. 2d class, F. 8.30 ($1.66). " Lausanne: 1st class, F. 20.10 ($4.02), 6 hours. 2d class, F. 14.10 ($2.82) " Milan: 1st class, F. 35.70 ($7.14), 6 hours. 2d class, F. 25.00 ($5). " Venice: 1st class, F. 69.55 ($13.91), 12 hours. 2d class, F. 48.70 ($9.74). " Zurich: 1st class, F. 6.05 ($1.21), 11 hours. 2d class, F. 4.25 ($0.85). Milan to Domod'Ossola: 1st class, L. 23.75 ($4.75), 31 hours. 2d class, L. 16.65 ($3.33). " " Venice: 1st class, L. 30.75 ($6.15), 4$ hours. 2d class, L. 21.55 ($4.31). " " Como: 1st class, L. 5.60 ($1.12), 1* tours. 2d class, L. 3.90 ($0.78). Naples to Genoa: 1st class, L. 92.30 ($18.46), 16 hours. 2d class, L. 64.90 ($12.98). " Florence: 1st class, L. 70.80 ($14.16), 10 hours. 2d class, L. 49.65 ($9.98). " Rome: 1st class, L. 30.70 ($6.14), 5 hours. 2d class, L. 21.60 ($4.32). 110 EUROPEAN GUIDE Naples to Pompeii: 1st class, L. 3.10 ($0.62), 1 hour. 2d class, L. 2.20 ($0.44). " " Capri: (steamer) L. 11.60 ($2.32), 2 hours. " Messina: " L. 35.60 ($7.12), 1 night. " Palermo: " L. 34.25 ($6.85), 1 night. Paris to Basle: 1st class, F. 59.50 ($11.81), 9 hours. 2d class, F. 40.10 ($8.02). " " Berlin: 1st class, F. 118.30 ($23.66), 22£ hours. 2d class, F. 86.20 ($17.24). " " Berne: 1st class, F. 62.95 ($12.59), 11 hours. 2d class, F. 42.75 ($8.55). " " Boulogne: 1st class, F. 28.45 ($5.69), 3£ hours, (sur-mer) 2d class, F. 19.20 ($3.84). Florence: 1st class, F. 143.85 ($28.77), 26f hours. 2d class, F. 98.80 ($19.76). " Geneva: 1st class, F. 70.15 ($14), 10 hours. 2d class, F. 47.30 ($9.45). " Havre: 1st class, F. 25.55 ($5.11), 3J hours. 2d class, F. 17.25 ($3.45). " Lausanne: 1st class, F. 58.50 ($11.70), 11 hours. 2d class, F. 39.65 ($7.93). « c< cc « London: 1st class, £2 16s. 8d. ($14.16), 7£ hours, (via Calais) 2d class, £1 19s. 8d. ($9.91). to London: 1st class, £2 10s. ($12.50), 6f hours, (via Boulogne) 2d class, £1 14s. 8d. ($8.66). Ill EUROPEAN GUIDE Paris to London: 1st (via Dieppe) 2d (Night Service) : 1st 2d Paris to London: (via Havre) " " Lucerne: " " Madrid: " " Milan: " " Munich: " " Rome: 1st 2d 1st 2d 1st 2d 1st 2d 1st 2d 1st 2d class, £1 18«. Id. ($9.64), 8f hours. class, £1 8s. ($7). class, £1 14*. Id. ($8.64). class, £1 5s. Id. ($6.39). class, £1 13s. lOd. ($8.45), IS J hours, class, £1 45. lOd. ($6.20). class, F. 69.80 ($13.96), 11} hours, class, F. 47.70 ($9.54). class, F. 164.65 ($32.93), 35 hours, class, F. 116.65 ($23.33). Strassburg: 1st 2d " " Turin: " "Vienna: Vienna to Berlin: 1st 2d 1st 2d " " Brussels: " " Copenhagen: class, F. 104.85 ($20.97), 17f hours, class, F. 72.40 ($14.48). class, F. 106.60 ($21.32), 18| hours, class, F. 74.05 ($14.81). class, F. 176.25 ($35.25), 32* hours, class, F. 121.50 ($24.30). class, F. 56.70 ($11.34), 11 hours, class, F. 38.60 ($7.72). class, F. 91.50 ($18.30), 16£ hours, class, F. 62.15 ($12.43). class, F. 161.30 ($32.26), 30 hours, class, F. 108.65 ($21.73). 1st class, K. 74.90 ($14.98), 13 hours. 2d class, K. 51.80 ($10.36). 1st class, K. 132.00 ($26.40), 26* hrs. 2d class, K. 92.05 ($18.41). 1st class, K. 116.40 ($23.28). 2d class, K. 82.05 ($16.41). 112 EUROPEAN GUIDE Vienna to Dresden: 1st class, K. 55.40 ($11.08), 10 hours. 2d class, K. 37.35 ($7.47). " " Florence: 1st class, K. 106.80 ($21.36). 2d class, K. 75.40 ($15.08). " Frankfort: 1st class, K. 85.75 ($17.15), 16 hours. 2d class, K. 57.60 ($11.52). " Genoa: 1st class, K. 121.85 ($24.37), 26£ hrs. 2d class, K. 85.85 ($17.17). " Innsbruck: 1st class, K. 57.60 ($11.52), 12* hours. 2d class, K. 37.30 ($7.46). " Milan: 1st class, F. 103.40 ($20.68), 22£ hrs. 2d class, F. 72.95 ($14.59). " " Munich: 1st class, K. 54.95 ($10.99), 10£ hrs. 2d class, K. 35.30 ($7.06). " " Rome: 1st class, K. 145.50 ($29.10), 29£ hrs. 2d class, K. 102.50 ($20.50). " " Warsaw: 1st class, K. 74.45 ($14.89), 17 hours. 2d class, K. 45.20 ($9.04). Trieste to Berne: 1st class, K. 103.80 ($20.76). 2d class, K. 73.65 ($14.73). " " Berlin: 1st class, K. 142.20 ($28.44). 2d class, K. 102.35 ($20.47). " " Florence: 1st class, K. 62.15 ($12.42), 10£ hours. 2d class, K. 43.85 ($8.77). " " Geneva: 1st class, K. 120.10 ($24.02\ 21| hours. 2d class, K. 85.25 ($17.05). 113 EUROPEAN GUIDE Trieste to Genoa: 1st class, K. 100.00 ($20), 15 hours. 2d class, K. 55.00 ($11). " " Lucerne: 1st class, K. 93.95 ($18.79), 16 hours. 2d class, K. 69.35 ($13.87). " " Milan: 1st class, K. 58.35 ($11.67), 9| hours. 2d class, K. 41.60 ($8.32). " " Munich: 1st class, K. 93.30 ($18.66), 18 hours. 2d class, K. 67.85 ($13.57). " " Venice: (steamer) K. 13.75 ($2.75), 6 hours. " " Vienna: 1st class, K. 61.20 ($12.24), 12 hours. 2d class, 45.90 ($9.18). M " Zurich: 1st class, K. 100.10 ($20.02), 17£ hours. 2d class, K. 71.20 ($14.24). Some British Time Distances. Belfast to Dublin 3 hours Cork to Bantry 3£ Cork to Queenstown £ Dublin to Cork 5 Dublin to Killarney 6 Glasgow to Edinburgh, via Trossachs 9J Liverpool to Chester £ Edinburgh 5\ Glasgow 5 Oxford 4f Stratford-on-Avon 3 London to Canterbury 2| Dublin, via Holyhead 9 Edinburgh, via (Carlisle 8 J Edinburgh, via East Coast 8 J 114 EUROPEAN GUIDE London to Ely 2 hours Glasgow, via East Coast 9\ " Glasgow, via Carlisle 8J " Harwich H " Lincoln 4 " Liverpool 6 " Manchester 3£ " Newhaven l| " Oxford 2 Plymouth 6 Southampton 2 " Warwick 3 Windsor 1 York 4 Irish Sea Ferries. Belfast to Barrow: saloon, 12$. 6d. ($3.12), all night. " "Greenock: 125. Qd. ($3.12), " " " "Liverpool: 12*. 6d. ($3.12), " " " " London: 1st class, 45*. ($11.25), 16 hours, (via Barrow) 2d class, 28*. 6d. ($7.12). Dublin to Liverpool: day and night steamer, 13s. 6d. ($3.37), 3 hours. " " Holyhead: saloon, 85. ($2), 3 \ hours. " " London: 1st class, 53*. 6d. ($13.37), 9 hours, (via Holyhead) 2d class, rail and saloon, 35*. 6d. ($8.87). London to Holyhead: 5\ hours. Londonderry to Liverpool: saloon, 12s. 6d. ($3.12), all night. Night Travel. Avoid night travel as much as possible. Enjoy the varied scenes of each route by daylight. This does not apply to Spain, where there is little to 115 EUROPEAN GUIDE miss between large places, and night trains are very comfortable. If it is necessary to go by night, extra expense for sleepers may be avoided by hiring a pillow at any station of departure. The charge will be 1 shilling, 1 franc, or 1 lira, according to the country in which it is hired. This pillow is left in the car upon arrival at the destination. If there are three ladies in a family or party, a "Berliner" may be engaged through the offi- cials of the International Sleeping Car Company. This provides comfortable accommodation for just this number of persons. The International Sleeping Car Company has offices in all the principal cities and resorts of Europe and the British Isles. As excellent and careful service is given, as upon our own Pullman trains. The price for a sleeper is, of course, a supple- mentary one, as on our railways. It is not ex- cessive. On all the trains going over long distances there are dining and restaurant cars where satisfactory meals are served. Passengers in the second- class cars may enjoy the advantage of this service. The usual price for breakfast of tea, coffee, or chocolate, with bread and butter, is from 20 to 40 cents, according to the country through which 116 EUROPEAN GUIDE the travel is made. Luncheon, from 62 cents to $1. Dinner, from 87 cents to $1.50. Wines are extra. This International Company has an organized system of what is called "travel de luxe" for which there is an extra charge over and above the regular first-class fare. The trains are vesti- buled, made up of saloon, dining, and sleeping cars. As an example of the expense of travel by these trains : — the regular ticket from London to Berlin is— via Calais— £5 17 s. ($29.25). The sup- plementary cost for the train de luxe is <£1 8s. 6d. ($7.12). This sum insures rapid travel and all possible comfort en route. Various Forms of Railway Tickets. The growing demand for reasonable and con- venient transportation by rail is met in the several countries, as in our own, with a variety of special tickets. With a little care an up-to-date Amer- ican can take advantage of these, and save a deal of money. Circular Tickets. The circular ticket is simple, satisfactory, and reasonable in price. The expense is greatly re- 117 EUROPEAN GUIDE duced through this form of ticket, so much so that one can afford to leave a portion of it unused, and still make a saving on the railway expense. For instance, one might take a circular ticket from London, through Belgium, Germany, Switz- erland, and to France. Arriving at Paris, a ship might be taken from Havre or Boulogne-sur- mer, leaving the ticket unused back to London. And even with this part unused there is a material saving. If, in addition to the circular ticket, one can get along with hand-baggage only, a journey may be made at little cost. The tickets are carefully arranged, and there is no difficulty in understanding how to use them. French Railway Tickets. The cost for regular fares in France is at the rate of about three and three-fifths of a cent a mile, in our money, for first-class cars, and two and two-fifths of a cent a mile for second-class. Through the purchase of a mileage book, which is called a "kilometer" book, the cost is reduced to about one and three-fifths of a cent a mile for first class, and one and one-tenth of a cent for second class. If some 600 miles are to be covered, the cost is 118 EUROPEAN GUIDE reduced to only a cent a mile for second class and a fraction more for first class. These books are sold for desired distances, and are available for certain periods of time. They may be used on all the main lines of railway in France. To illustrate: For a book available to travel 187 miles, — the shortest distance that these books cover, — and good for 30 days, the cost is: 1st class, F. 27 ($5.40); 2d class, F. 19 ($3.80). A regular ticket for this distance would cost, 1st class, F. 33.60 ($6.72). The regular fare for a distance of some 625 miles would be $22.40, but by getting a kilo- meter book the cost is: 1st class, $16.20; 2d class, $12. The book is good for 30 days. As distances increase, the price decreases; and for a book good to be used 60 days, and to cover about 3,000 miles, the cost is only $50 against the regular first-class fare of $112. Sectional Tickets. France divides her railways into seven divi- sions, and these divisions are arranged in sections for special travel by sectional tickets. These tickets are sold for a fixed sum, and on them one may travel all day, and every day, in 119 EUROPEAN GUIDE any part of the district that has been selected, during the whole of a fixed time. For instance, one might decide to travel in Touraine and all along down through France towards Avignon or Nimes. By taking a sec- tional ticket, it would be possible to travel con- stantly for 15 days: for 1st class, F. 68 ($13.60); 2d class, F. 46 ($9.20). The time may be ex- tended to 30 days for the travel : tickets, 1st class, F. 102 ($20.40); 2d class, F. 69 ($13.80). Another arrangement is that persons may travel about 185 miles free, to reach a desired division to begin this sectional travel. For instance, one could travel from Paris to Belfort free if one of these sectional tickets was to be used in that in- teresting division of France. A Permit. All over the seven divisions of the French rail- ways there is an arrangement for second and third class travel that is admirable. Persons may buy a "Permit" that allows them to purchase second and third class railway tickets for half the regu- lar fare during a period of 3 months. A "Permit" costing F. 95 ($19) is good for 3 months. During this period, tickets may be pur- chased over one or all seven of the divisions of 120 EUROPEAN GUIDE railways at half the regular price for fares. These tickets are not transferable. Belgium Railway Tickets. The railways in Belgium cover the entire coun- try with 2,500 miles of track. There is an admirable system for reducing fares on these lines. A ticket is issued costing, 1st class, F. 30.75 ($6.15), and 2d class, F. 20.50 ($4.10), which is good for constant use in every direction over Bel- gium for 5 days. Tickets, 1st class, F. 61.50 ($12.30), and 2d class, F. 41 ($8.20), are good for constant travel all over Belgium for 15 days. These tickets must bear a small photograph of the holder, which guards against any transfer. The photographs are easily obtained in any city or town, and there is a perfect understanding of the size required, as the people use them con- stantly. They must be printed on paper 2j inches long by If inches wide. Application for these tickets must be made a few days in advance of the time for which they are required. When the ticket is issued, there is a supplementary charge demanded of F. 5 ($1). Not later than the day after the ticket expires, it 121 EUROPEAN GUIDE must be returned through some station on the Belgian railways. If this is not done, the $1 that has been paid is held by the railway. If the condition is ful- filled, the $1 is refunded at the station where the ticket is returned. These tickets are sold in London at the office of the company, 12a Regent Street, and at the ticket office of the Liverpool Street Station. Railway time in Belgium is counted from 1 to 24 o'clock. 24 o'clock is midnight. Holland Railway Tickets. Holland has railway tickets available for use over all lines of the Railway Company and good for 30 days. The prices are: 1st class, G. 62.50 ($25); 2d class, G. 41.65 ($16.66). Application for these tickets must be made 8 days in advance of the time the journey is to begin. An unmounted photograph, 2 J inches long by If wide, must be presented when ticket is applied for. A deposit of 85. 4d. ($2.08) must be paid at time of issue of the ticket. This sum will be re- funded within 8 days after the ticket expires. The Continental Traffic Manager, Liverpool Street Station, London, E.C., will give full in- 122 EUROPEAN GUIDE formation about ordering these tickets. They are for sale at the Central Station, Amsterdam, at the three stations in Rotterdam, and at the station of the Hook of Holland. There is another ticket, 1st class, G. 2 ($0.80), 2d class, G. 1.50 ($0.60), that allows one to travel from Rotterdam, The Hague, Amsterdam, Gouda, or Utrecht, to any one of 20 cities and towns or from one of these places back to any one of the above-mentioned cities. No stop-over privilege is allowed. Six persons for first-class travel, or eight persons for second-class, may purchase tickets at half-price for a single journey. For a round-trip these per- sons need only pay the price of one single fare each. In summer cheap tickets are sold over direct routes, good for one day only and with no stop- over privileges. Tickets, 1st class, G. 4 ($1.60), 2d class, G. 3 ($1.20), permit one to travel from any one station on a line to another station, no matter how great the distance. German Railway Tickets. Germany has railways on State systems, and in each of these there are good arrangements for cheap travel. The Baden State Railway sells kilometer 123 EUROPEAN GUIDE coupon books that are good for one year. For a book that will cover 1,000 kilometers the price is: 1st class, M. 60 ($15); 2d class, M. 40 ($10). For a book that will cover 500 kilometers there is a rate for third class, which provides good cars and service, cost M. 12.50 ($3.12). These tickets are sold at all important stations on the Baden State Railway. For the entire German Empire there are kilo- meter books at a price a third less than regular rates. Switzerland Railway Tickets. In Switzerland there are season tickets at a reasonable rate, good for certain periods of time. There is a ticket, 1st class, F. 77.15 ($15.43), 2d class, F. 56.55 ($11.31), good for 15 days. On this ticket one may travel constantly in every direction, using all trains, except specials, and the steamers on the Swiss lakes. There is another ticket that offers this advantage of constant travel: 1st class, F. 118.30 ($23.66); 2d class, F. 94.75 ($18.95),— good for 30 days. The second-class tickets are good for first-class deck and cabin accommodation on the lake steamers. With the application for these tickets there 124 EUROPEAN GUIDE must be sent the small unmounted photograph, 2| inches long by If inches wide. If applying for tickets in a large city, allow half a day for de- livery. In small places allow a whole day. The Swiss railways also sell coupon books that cost only F. 2.60 ($0.52) for one hundred coupons. These are torn out by the railway officials, as our mileage coupons are, according to distance. For the several Swiss lakes there are special coupon books that can be used by a group of persons. On Lake Geneva such a book costs, 1st class, F. 20 ($4), and 2d class, F. 10 ($2), available for all points on the lake. On Lake Thun a book costs F. 2.50 ($0.50); on the Lake of the Four Cantons a book costs F. 12.50 ($2.50) ; and on Lake Zurich it costs F. 5 ($1). The cou- pons are good for all points on the lakes. Italian Railway Tickets. Circular tickets are sold in Italy and Sicily. There are also special division tickets, as in France. For 30 days one may travel constantly over the Italian railways: tickets, 1st class, L. 300 ($60); 2d class, L. 210 ($42). For 60 days one may enjoy constant travel over all parts of Italy: tickets, 1st class, L. 475 ($95); 2d class, L. 330 125 EUROPEAN GUIDE A ticket covering all the railways of Sicily, and available for constant travel for 15 days, costs: 1st class, L. 75 ($15); 2d class, L. 55 ($11). A ticket offering the same advantages for 30 days costs: 1st class, L. 100 ($20); 2d class, L. 80 ($16). All railway time tables in Italy are arranged with hours from 1 to 24 o'clock, 24 o'clock being midnight. Spanish Railway Tickets. In addition to circular tickets for travel in Spain, there are kilometer tickets that offer very reasonable rates. These tickets are good on all the railways of the country. For 3,000 kilometers or more the tickets are good for seven persons of the same family or three persons of the same firm. Tickets covering 3,000 kilometers cost $44, and are good for 4 months. Spanish railways' time tables use the same sys- tem as in Italy, running from 1 to 24 o'clock. Where to get Tickets. If one is unfamiliar with the railway customs and regulations in the various countries, it is well to buy regular or circular tickets at the office of 126 EUROPEAN GUIDE Thomas Cook & Son or through the American Express Company in the large cities of Europe. These companies are official agents for all steamship and railway lines, and are in a position to provide whatever is required at the regular rates. This is particularly true of Thomas Cook & Son, who have at all the railway stations in large cities and at each landing point for steam- ships men in the company uniform, to render assistance to travellers. At many points the American Express Com- pany has men in uniform to assist their patrons. In each city there are many offices where tickets are for sale and where special inducements are offered the traveller; but, unless such offices have some official standing, they should be avoided by strangers. It is, of course, always safe to buy tickets at the railway stations; but the hours when the offices are open are limited, the ticket sellers rarely understand English, and it is difficult to make them clearly comprehend what is desired in the way of transportation. Even with agents of such experience as those of Thomas Cook & Son, one should have a good idea as to the route to be taken. They will then help with full details as to the best arrangement of this route. 127 EUROPEAN GUIDE When tickets are purchased, they must be care- fully looked over and thoroughly understood be- fore leaving the office. A small error in a ticket will often cause the greatest inconvenience. Certain rules apply in regard to dating and stamping tickets and the stop-over privileges. On the Cook tickets their rules are all set forth plainly in English. Through the Cook offices it is always possible to arrange in advance for the reserving of certain seats in cars or of whole cars, if necessary. Sleep- ing-cars for travel all over Europe can be engaged through them for the person who wishes to make careful and close connections. All tickets of a special or sectional form must be obtained at the offices of railway officials, either in the several city offices or at the railway stations. As these tickets are used by the travel- ling public in each country, the tourist agencies do not sell them. How Tickets are Handled. In England the railway tickets are collected on the trains. All over the Continent the tickets are given up or punched for a stop-over at the gate through which one leaves the station. 128 EUROPEAN GUIDE Before a train starts, the conductor, both in England and on the Continent, goes to each car and looks at or punches the tickets held by the passengers. There is thus little danger of start- ing on the wrong train. When leaving stations in many European coun- tries, it is necessary to have tickets punched at a gate, as one passes to the train. Very often pas- sengers are not allowed to go to the platform till the train is ready for them. Learn to read Time Tables. All travellers should learn to read time tables. These are sold at all stations; for they are not free, as with us. By being familiar with time tables, there is the satisfaction of being informed as to stops, where the frontiers are, and if the train is on time. Here, again, Thomas Cook & Son offer valuable aid to the traveller. For the sum of 25 cents they sell a "Comprehensive Continental Time Table and Tourists' Handbook," giving all trains and steamers ordinarily used, and this publication is kept well revised. 129 Chapter VI. WHAT TO SEE. It is well, on arriving at a city, to ask the hotel porter to inform you what permits are neces- sary in sight-seeing. For instance, by apply- ing for permits to the right authorities one may see the sewers and catacombs of Paris and part of the Conciergerie in which Marie Antoinette was confined. In London permits will open special rooms in the London Tower, also will allow one to visit the Royal Stables, the Man- sion House, etc. ABBOTSFORD (£ day) .—The Home of Sir Walter Scott. AMSTERDAM (3 days).— The Queen's Palace on the Dam, the Rijks Museum, the Zoological Gardens, the pretty Arcade with its fascinating shops and cafes, and the curious Kalver Straat where no carriages are allowed. Municipal Museum in Paulus Potter Straat, near Rijks Museum; Fodor Museum on the Keizersgracht. Visit the famous Krasnapolsky Restaurant, Jewish Quarter, Docks. Make a trip by steamer to Broek and to Monnikendam, crossing to the Island of Marken; return to Amsterdam by the Zuyder Zee. Make a trip to Zaandam, with its hut of Peter the Great. Round-trip tickets, G. 2.50 ($1). ANTWERP (H days).— The Cathedral with its master- pieces by Rubens; the Church of St. Paul and its curious Calvary; the Church of St. Jacques, where 130 EUROPEAN GUIDE Rubens is buried; the Park, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts, and the Plantin Museum (of Printing). BASLE (J to 1 day).— The Cathedral and Terrace, Mu- seum and Picture Gallery, the old town, and the St. Jacob Monument. BERLIN (3 to 6 days).— The Royal Palace, Old Museum, Picture Gallery, New Museum, National Gal- lery, the Aquarium in Unterden Linden, and the Thiergarten with all its attractions; the Arsenal. Make a trip to Char- lottenburg, and visit the Royal Palace and Mausoleum; make a trip to Potsdam to visit the Royal Palace, the Gar- rison Church, the Friedens-Kirche, and Sans-Souci. BERNE (i to 1 day).— The High Bridge, the Cathedral and Terrace, the Bear Pits, Town Hall, the sev- eral fountains, and the famous Clock Tower. BRUGES (1 day).— The Cathedral, the Church of Notre Dame, Hospital of St. John, and the Round Church of Jerusalem, the Hotel -de- Ville, the Grande Place, and the Belfry of Bruges, Museum Communal. BRUSSELS (2 days).— The Palace of Justice, the Church of Ste. Gudule, the Wiertz Museum, the Hotel -de-Ville and its Square with the famous old Guild House and the Royal Lace Manufactory. Make a side-trip to the battlefield of Waterloo by coach, carriage, or rail. Coaches call at the several hotels for pas- sengers. Places on the coach may be engaged through the concierge of any hotel. Trains leave from the Midi Sta- tion, and the most satisfactory way to go is to take tickets to Braine l'Alleud and return. At this station a light rail- way takes visitors to the Butte-de-Lion, the Gordon Monu- ment, Belle Alliance, and the Prussian Monument. Plan to connect at Braine l'Alleud with the light railway at either 8.18 A.M., 11 A.M., or 13.45 (1.45 p.m.). 131 EUROPEAN GUIDE BOLOGNA (H to 2 days).— Church of St. Petronio, the Church of San Domenico, the Leaning Towers, and the Academy of Fine Arts. Drive to the Campo Santo (the Certosa). CADENABBIA (£ day).— Carlotta Villa with its art treas- ures and the Gardens. CADIZ (1 day).— Old and New Cathedrals, the Museum, and the Alameda. CAPRI (1 day).— Blue Grotto and the Cathedral. CHESTER (1 to 1J days).— The Roman Wall, "the Rows," the Cathedral; and drive to Eton Hall, the estate of the Duke of Westminster. CHILLON (J day).— The Castle. COLOGNE (1 to 2 days).— The Cathedral, the Church of St. Ursula with the bones of the 11,000 virgins, the Wallraf-Richartz Museum, and the Zoo. COMO (1 to H days).— Cathedral, Statue of Volta, and the superb Lake. COPENHAGEN (2 days).— The Royal Palace, the famous Thorwaldsen Museum, the Vor-Frue- Kirke with much fine work by Thorwaldsen; the National Museum (Antiquities), Art Museum, Round Tower, New Carlsberg Glyptothek, Old Glyptothek, Palace of Rosen- borg and the Tivoli Gardens. CORDOVA (1 day).— The Cathedral, the Episcopal Palace, the Moorish Bridge, and the Ala- meda with its splendid palms. 132 EUROPEAN GUIDE CORK (1 day).— The Church of St. Anne with the Shandon Bells, the Cathedral of St. Finn Barr and Queen's College. DELFT (1 day).— The Prinsenhof, the Town Hall, the New Church, and the Manufactory of Delft Ware. Make a side-trip to Rotterdam by small boat, through the canals. Electric cars go to The Hague, across a fine stretch of country. DRESDEN (2 to 4 days).— The Schloss, the famous Picture Gallery, Museum Johanneum, the Green Vault, the Japanese Palace, and the Hofkirche with the Royal Tombs. Visit the Grosse Garten and the Zoo. Make a little journey on the Elbe River by steamer. By leaving at 9 a.m., one may go as far as Kdnigstein, and, re- turning by another steamer, reach Dresden at 4.30 p.m. Luncheon on board steamer. DUBLIN (1 day).— Bank of Ireland, Trinity College, the Castle, St. Patrick's Cathedral, and Phoenix Park. EDINBURGH (2 days).— The Castle, Holyrood Palace, Calton Hill, St. Giles Church, the House of John Knox, the Tron Church where Annie Laurie was married, and the Art Gallery. Excursion to Roslyn Chapel. Literary Notes. — Robert Louis Stevenson was born at 8 Howard Place, and he lived for some time at 17 Heriot Row. Hume wrote his History of England in what was called "Jack's Land," now 229 Canongate. Later he built himself a house in the New Town, 21 South Saint David Street, facing Rose Street. He is buried in the old Calton Burying-ground. Adam Smith, author of the "Wealth of Nations," lived the last twelve years of his life at Panmure Close, No. 15, which leads from 129 Can- ongate. He is buried in the old Canongate Churchyard. 133 EUROPEAN GUIDE FLORENCE (2 to 4 days).— The Cathedral, Giotto's Campanile, the Baptistery, Loggia dei Lanzi, Palazzo Vecchio, the Galleries of the Uffizi and the Pitti, the Academy of Fine Arts, National Museum, the Church and Convent of San Marco with the cells of Sa- vonarola and Fra Angelico, Santa Croce and the tombs of Michelangelo and Galileo, the Protestant Cemetery with the graves of Mrs. Browning, Walter Savage Landor, and Theodore Parker; the Church of San Lorenzo and the tombs of the Medici, and drive to the Cascine. Make a trip by electric tram to the old city of Fiesole, and visit the ruins of the Roman Amphitheatre, and the Cathedral. Take an afternoon drive to the famous Certosa, overlook- ing the Valley of the Ema. Visit all parts of Certosa. Take cars of electric tramway for the Piazza Michelan- gelo, and walk up to San Miniato Church and Cemetery. Take electric tramway for Prato, and visit the interesting Cathedral. Time, to go and return, %\ hours. FRANKFORT (1 day).— The House of Goethe, the Cathedral, the House of Luther, the Romer and Kaisersaal, the House of the first great Roth- schild, the Bethmann Museum, and the Parks. GENEVA (1 to 2 days).— Stadel Art Institute, the Church where Calvin preached, the H6tel-de-Ville, the Musee Rath, the Russian Church, the City Water Works, and the English Garden. Take an electric tram car in front of the Post-office for a trip to Ferney, the little town built by Voltaire. Visit his Chateau and Church. Take a steamer on the Lake to Coppet, and visit the Cha- teau of Madame de Stael. By carriage from Geneva drive to the garden and park, from which point is the best view of the meeting of the Rhone and Arve Rivers. An interesting trip from Geneva is by the Saleve Rail- 134 EUROPEAN GUIDE way to Treize-Arbres. From there there is a superb view of the Alps. By leaving Geneva at 8.30 a.m., one reaches Treize-Arbres at 10.05 a.m. After luncheon the return may be made at 4.03 p.m., reaching Geneva at 5.36 p.m. GENOA (1 to 2 days).— The Royal Palace, the Church of the Annunciation, the Palace of the Brignole- Sale with its art treasures, the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, the Church of San Ambrogio and the Park of the Acqua Sola. Excursion to Pegli (Villa Pallavicini). GHENT (1 day) .—The Town Hail, the Cathedral of St. Bavon and view from its tower, the Belfry with its "Roland Bell," the Marche du Vendredi and "Mad Meg," the Hotel -de-Ville, and the interesting Beguinage. GIBRALTAR (£ day).— The Fortifications, the Caves, the Neutral Ground, the Alameda, and the Market. GLASGOW (1 day).— The Cathedral, the University, the City Hall, and the Park. GRANADA (2 days).— The Alhambra, the Generalife, the Cathedral with the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella, the Cartuja Convent, the Gypsy Quarter, and the Alameda. HAARLEM (1 day).— The Groote Kerk, the Market, the Franz Hals Gallery in the Town Hall, and the Park. HAGUE (THE) (2 days).— The Royal Palace, the Bin- nenhof, the Picture Gallery with its celebrated productions, the Groote Kerk, the Nieuwe Kerk, the Municipal Museum, Mesdag Museum, and the "House in the Wood" (a summer palace of the Queen of Holland, where the Peace Congress met). 135 EUROPEAN GUIDE Make a trip by electric tramway to the fashionable North Sea summer resort of Scheveningen. Visit the Kurhaus, and enjoy the concerts in the central hall. Also go to the Pier, and enjoy the scenes on the great beach. HAMBURG (1 to 2 days).— Nicholas Church, the Borse (Exchange), the Rathaus, the pictures in the Kunsthalle, the Industrial Museum, and the Zoo. HANOVER (1 day).— The Palace, the Rathaus, Schloss Herrenhausen, Royal Stables, and the Zoo- logical Gardens. INTERLAKEN (2 days).— From Interlaken by rail to the Valley of Lauterbrunnen, across the Wengern Alp, over the Jungfrau Railway to the Eiger Gla- cier, to Grindelwald, and back to Interlaken. Tickets: 2d class, F. 23.45 ($4.69); 3d class, F. 14.45 ($2.88). Trip from Interlaken by the Drahtseilbahn to the Heim- wehfluh. Tickets, to go and return, 80 centimes (16 cents). INNSBRUCK (1 to 2 days).— Franciscan Church with the tomb of Maximilian, the Palace and Garden, Tyrolese Museum. LAUSANNE (1 to H days).— Cathedral, Market Place, the great Viaduct, and quaint old streets. Side-trip, by train, along the shore of the lake to Territet, electric car to Castle of Chillon. Tickets to Territet, F. 2 (40 cents); to Castle of Chillon, 25 centimes (5 cents). Re- turn to Territet, and take steamer to Ouchy, the port of Lau- sanne. Ticket (steamer), F. 2 (40 cents). LEYDEN (i to 1 day).— The University, the House of John Robinson, Museum of Antiquities, the Kerk of St. Peter, and the Stadhuis. There is an interesting trip from Leyden to Katwyk-aan- Zee, 6 miles by steam tramway. It is here that the old 136 EUROPEAN GUIDE Rhine joins the sea, and the Sluice-gates are opened at low tide. At high tide the sea is 12 feet higher than the river level. LONDON (4 to 10 days).— The Guildhall with the Museum and the Corporation Gallery; St. Paul's Church and the Crypt; Fleet Street, Temple Bar site, the Law Courts; the Temple with Middle Temple Hall the Temple Church, and grave of Oliver Goldsmith, Covent Garden Fruit and Flower Market, Lincoln's Inn, the Victorian Embankment, Parliament Buildings, Westminster Abbey, Whitehall, Trafalgar Square, the National Gallery, Piccadilly, St. James and Green Parks, Marlborough House, St. James Palace, Buckingham Palace, Royal Stables, Hyde Park and Rotten Row; the Albert Memorial, Royal Albert Hall, South Kensington Museum, Natural History Museum, Zoological Gardens, the British Museum, Smithfield Market, the Mansion House, the Bank of England, the Tower of London, Charterhouse, Foundling Hospital, London Bridge, Gate of St. John. Excursion to Hampton Court, Kew Gardens, Richmond, see p. 70; Chelsea, see p. 71. To spend a day with Charles Dickens. In Buckingham Street, the last house on the right, was the home of David Copperfield and Mrs. Crupp, his housekeeper. At 39 Craven Street, Charing Cross, Mr. Brownlow lived. The scene of Mr. Pickwick's first meeting with Alfred Jingle was at the Golden Cross Hotel, West Strand. 6 Golden Square was the office of Ralph Nickleby. 157 Leadenhall Street was Sol Gill's house. Norie & Wilson, Minories, are in possession of the figure of the wooden midshipman. 26 Newman Street was the Dancing Academy of Mr. Turvey- drop. At George Yard, Lombard Street, Thomas' Chop House occupies the site of the "George and Vulture Inn," which was the residence of Mr. Pickwick. Madame Man- talini's was 11 Wigmore Street. 14 Portsmouth Street is the "Old Curiosity Shop." 43 Wimpole Street was Mr. Boffin's home. 137 EUROPEAN GUIDE On some Wednesday during a stay in London go for luncheon to "Ye Old Cheshire Cheese Chop House," Wine Court, out of Fleet Street. Sit in the seat so often occupied by Dr. Sam Johnson, and visit the Johnson room upstairs. Ask to look over the Visitors' Books, and buy a pipe like those used in Johnson's day. NOTABLE SPOTS. Another day dine at Crosby Hall, the one-time residence of Richard III. Dr. Johnson completed his Dictionary in the garret of 17 Gough Square, Fleet Street, and died at 8 Bolt Court, Fleet Street. Bos well died at 47 Great Portland Street (Oxford Street). Goldsmith died at 2 Brick Court, Temple, third story, room — right. Charles Lamb lived at 4 Inner Temple Lane (Temple). William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania, lived in Norfolk Street (Strand), last house on the left from Strand. He was born in the house of his father, Admiral Penn, on Great Tower Hill, on the East Side, in a court that joined the Lon- don Wall. Milton is buried in the Church of St. Giles, Cripplegate. The great actress, Mrs. Siddons, is buried in St. Clement's Danes Churchyard. Dryden died at 43 Gerard Street, Soho. Addison died in Holland House, Kensington. Shelley Jived in lodgings at 41 Hans Place, Sloane Street. Keats wrote his great sonnet on "Chapman's Homer" at 71 Cheapside, second floor. LUCERNE (2 to 3 days).— The "Lion," the two old bridges. Attend the Organ Concert in the Church of St. Leger and St. Maurice. A trip by steamer to Vitznau, thence by the Rigi Railway to the summit and return. Tickets, F. 13.50 ($2.70). A trip from Lucerne for a charming view of the Lake 138 EUROPEAN GUIDE of the Four Cantons is by a short mountain railway to the Gutsch. Luncheon, afternoon tea, or dinner, may be had at the hotel. Round-trip tickets, 70 centimes (14 cents). MADRID (2 to 4 days).— The Royal Palace, the Armeria with its splendid collection of armor, arms, and flags; the Royal Stables, the Cathedral, the Museum of the Prado (one of the finest collection of pictures in Eu- rope); the National Library, the Museum of Modern Art, the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, the Artillery Museum, the Bull Ring, and the magnificent Gardens and Parks. Take a day for a trip from Madrid to the Escorial with the vast Monastery of San Lorenzo and the Royal Tombs since the time of Philip II. Near the railway station visit the small Pleasure Palace of the Spanish kings. Take a day for a trip from Madrid to Toledo to visit what is called the "gigantic open-air Museum of the Architectural History of Spain." Visit the Cathedral, the Museum, and the Alcazar. MARSEILLES (1 to 2 days).— The Prado, La Canne- biere, and the Pilgrim Church of Notre Dame de la Garde, Cathedral. MELROSE (J day).— The ruined Abbey. MENTONE (1 to 2 days).— The Church of St. Michele, the Town Hall and Museum. From Men- tone the most enjoyable way to reach Monte Carlo is by the electric tramway, via Cap Martin. Make a special trip to Cap Martin, taking the walk through the wood. Attractive place for afternoon tea. Note the Villa Cyrnos belonging to the ex-Empress Eugenie, where she spends a part of each season. Also note monument to the memory of the Em- press Elizabeth of Austria. There is a Signal Station at Cap Martin. 139 EUROPEAN GUIDE MILAN (1 day).— The Cathedral, the Royal Palace, the Galleria Victor Emanuel, the refectory of the Con- vent of Santa Maria delle Grazie for Da Vinci's great picture, "The Last Supper," the Brera Gallery of Pictures, the Ambro- sian Library, the Da Vinci Monument, La Scala Theatre, the Church of San Ambrogio, the Parks, and the Arch of the Simplon. From Milan make a trip by tramway to Monza, to visit the old cathedral. MONTE CARLO (1 to 2 days).— (Monaco.) The Castle and Palace, the Condamine, the Casino, its Gardens and Terraces. Take the electric cars from Monte Carlo, near the Casino, for Monaco. Change cars at the foot of the hill at the quarter called the Condamine (new town). Here take electric cars up to Monaco, and go to end of route. MUNICH (2 to 3 days).— Church of St. Michael, the Royal Palace, the Sculpture Gallery, the old Pinako- thek, the New Pinakothek, Schack Gallery, the Royal Bronze Foundry, the Hall of Heroes, and the Hof-Brau-Haus. NAPLES (2 to 4 days).— The Royal Palace, the National Museum, the Aquarium, the Height of Posilipo, the Grotto of Posilipo, and the tomb of Virgil. See the pretty shops in the Galleria Humberto. NICE (1 to 2 days).— Old H6tel-de-Ville, Promenades, Gardens, and the Casino. A trip from Nice to Monte Carlo by tramway follows the famous "Cornice Road," a route that is one of the most notable in the wide world. Make a trip by the mountain railway, from the Boulevard Nord, to La Turbie, to see the interesting Roman ruins and to enjoy the superb view. Make a trip by the Cagnes tramway line to visit the Ostrich Farm. 140 EUROPEAN GUIDE A trip by tramway to Cimiez includes a visit to some famous Roman ruins, an Amphitheatre, and a Temple of Apollo. OSTEND (i day).— The Casino and the Kursaal. OXFORD (1 day).— Christ College, Merton College, Bod- leian Library, Sheldonian Theatre, New College, Magdalen College, Baliol College, Martyrs' Memorial, and St. John's College. PARIS (5 to 10 days) . — Notre Dame, the Morgue, the Palace of Justice, Ste. Chapelle, the Pantheon, the Church of St. Etienne du Mont; the Galleries of the Luxembourg, Cluny Museum, Les Invalides and the tomb of Napoleon; the Eiffel Tower, the Trocadero, the Place de la Concorde, the Madeleine Church, the Pare Monceau, the Boulevardes, the Opera House, the Louvre, Tuileries Gardens, Palais Royal, Tour St. Jacques (view from), Sewers, Hotel -de-Ville, Place Bastile, Gobelin Tapestry Works, Champs-Ely- sees, Arc-de-Triomphe, Palais de l'lndustrie, Bois de Boulogne, Longchamps, Halles Centrales, Pere-la-Chaise, Bibliotheque National, Archives Nationals, Musee Carnavalet, once residence of Mme. de Sevigne, Place des Vosges, Cata- combs, Versailles, — Palace, Grand-Trianon, Musee des Ven- tures (State Carriages), Petit-Trianon, Jardin du Petit-Tria- non; St. Cloud, St. Germain, Chateau, St. Denis, and Royal Tombs, Fontainebleau Palace. PISA The Cathedral, Baptistery, Leaning Tower, Campo Santo, and the House of Galileo. Take tramway or drive to the Beach. If the trip is taken by carriage, turn from the main road at the left, about half-way to the beach, and visit the old church of St. Peter in Grado. It was built in the tenth century, and is supposed to be the spot where Saint Peter first landed in Italy. 141 EUROPEAN GUIDE POMPEII (1 day).— House of Sallust, Public Bake-shop, House of Pansa, House of the Tragic Poet, Pub- lic Baths, Street of Fortuna, the Forum, Temple of Jupiter, the Prisons, the Basilica, the Street of Abbondanza, the House of the Boar Hunt, the Tragic Theatre, the Temple of Isis, all the latest excavations, and the Museum. ROME (3 to 5 days).— St. Peter's, the Vatican, the Vatican Mosaic Works, the Castle of San Angelo, the Jani- culum Hill, the burial-place of Tasso, the Paolo Fontana, Trevi Fontana, St. Peter in Montorio and site of the Martyr- dom of St. Peter, Church and House of St. Cecilia, the House of Rienzi, the Church of the Bocca della Verita; St. Paul's outside the Walls, the Baths of Caracalla, the Arch of Drusus, the Catacombs of St. Calixtus and of St. Sebastian, the Appian Way, the Coliseum, the Arch of Constantine, the Palatine Hill and Palaces of the Caesars; the Forum with all its splendid ruins of Temples and Basilicas, Forum of Trajan, the Mamertine Prison, the Capitol with the Museum, the Church of Ara Coeli and its sacred Bambino; the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, the Church of St. John Lateran and the Scala Santa; the Pantheon, the Corso, the Pincio with its beautiful Gardens ; the Villa Borghese, and the New National Museum with its treasures from the bed of the Tiber, Temple of Neptune, Vaults of Santa Maria del Cappuccini, Galleria Colonna, Palazzo Barberini, Gallery Doria. lake trip of one day to Tivoli from Rome. Visit the Villa of Hadrian, the Temple of the Sibvl, the W T aterfalls, and the Villa d' Este. RONDA (1 day).— The Alameda, the Bull Ring, the great bridge over the Tajo, the Market, the Moorish Castle, the Cathedral, and the old Moorish Mill. ROTTERDAM (§ to 1 day).— The Boompjes, the Groote Kerk, the Statue of Erasmus, the Market, the Park and Zoo, and Boymans' Museum. Make a trip to 142 EUROPEAN GUIDE Delft, from the Delftsche Port, by small boat on the canal. Return to Rotterdam by rail. SEVILLE (3 days).— Cathedral (largest in Spain); the Co- lumbus Library, the Court of Oranges, the Giralda, the Alcazar and its Gardens, the House of Pilate; the Tobacco Factory, the University, Don Pedro's Palace, the Museo Provincial; the Hospital de la Caridad, the Exchange and Archives, the Bull Ring, and all beautiful Parks. ST. PETERSBURG (3 to 4 days).— The Winter Palace, the Hermitage with its art treasures ; St. Isaac's Cathedral, the Kazan Cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul, the Smolnoi Church, the Academy of Science, the House of Peter the Great, and the Museum of State Carriages. Make a trip to the Summer Palace (Tsarkoe Selo), half an hour distant. Make a trip to Peterhof, half an hour distant. STOCKHOLM (1 to 2 days).— The Royal Palace, the Church of St. Nicholas, Riddarholm's Church, the Houses of Parliament, the National Museum, the Academy of Science, and the House of Swedenborg; Museum of Armor and Costumes. Make a trip by ferry or by tramway to the Deer Park (Djurgarden). Take a steamer at Riddarholm for the Queen's Island (Drottningholm), sail of 30 minutes; visit the Summer Palace of the Royal Family. It is situated on the shore of Lake Mrlar. STRATFORD-ON-AVON (* to 1 day).— Shakespeare's House, School, Trinity Church, where he is buried, the Childs Memorial, and the Cottage of Anne Hathaway at Shottery. 143 EUROPEAN GUIDE TRIESTE (1 day).— The Cathedral and the Museum near it, the Greek Church and the Markets. Take a boat at the Quai for the Castle of Miramar (.the sum- mer home of Maximilian and Carlotta), or go by carriage along the sea-wall road. TURIN (1 day).— Palace Madama, Royal Palace, the Cathedral, the fine Picture Gallery, and the Mu- seum of Antiquities. VENICE (3 to 6 days).— The Basilica of San Marco, the Doges' Palace and the Prison Cells, the Bridge of Sighs, the Church of the Frari, Academy of Fine Arts, the Rialto, the Markets, the Church of the Jesuits, the Arsenal, the Church of St. John and St. Paul, Church of Santa Maria della Salute, and the Public Gardens. Steamers go constantly all the summer to the Lido. Cars at the pier take passengers to the bathing establishments. Bathing suits are for hire. There is an excellent restaurant for the convenience of visitors. Make a trip by gondola to the Island of San Lazzaro, to visit the famous Armenian Convent. lake one day for a trip to Torcello, the island to which the people from the main land fled from Attila. Take two gondoliers, as it is a long distance. Also take a substantial luncheon for all, as there is no way to get anything to eat. On the way make a stop at Murano, and visit the Cathedral and the Glass Works. At Torcello there is nothing but the old Cathedral, the little Church of Santa Fosca, and a small Museum. On the way back to Venice make a stop at Burano, and visit the Lace Factory that was established by Queen Margherita. Make a trip of one day across the Lagoon to Chioggia, an old town closely connected with the early days of Venetian history, also notable through the literary work of Goldoni. Take steamer opposite the Prison at Venice. Round-trip tickets, first class, L. 1.50 (30 cents). There is a hotel for luncheon at the right of the landing at Chioggia. Take a 144 EUROPEAN GUIDE boat from Chioggia over to the great sea-walls that keep the Adriatic from destroying Venice. If one takes a steamer from the Paglia at 9.30 a.m., Chioggia is reached at 11.30. Visit the Cathedral, and walk about the Canals where the fruit and vegetable boats lie. Have luncheon, and take the boat of a fisherman across to the Sea-walls. Return, and take steamer for Venice at 18 o'clock (6 p.m.). VERONA (1 day).— Giusti Gardens, the Cathedral, the Church of San Zeno, the Amphitheatre, the Piazza della Erbe, the House of the Capulets, the Piazza dei Signori, the Scaliger Monuments, and the tomb of Juliet. VIENNA (2 to 4 days).— The Cathedral, the Church of the Capuchins with the Imperial Tombs, the Church of St. Augustine with the Canova Monument for Maria Christina, the Imperial Palace and Jewels, the New Imperial Museums, the Academy of Fine Arts, the Rathaus, the Par- liament Buildings, the Liechtenstein Picture Gallery, the Har- rach Picture Gallery, the Gallery of Modern Pictures in the Belvidere, the Prater with all its attractions, and the other fine Parks. Make a trip on the Danube Canal by local steamer. These boats start from the Stephanie Bridge on the Quay Franz- Joseph in summer. A trip by tramway may be made, taking cars on the Quay Franz-Joseph to the Schonbrunn Palace and Gardens. Sunday is the best day for this trip. The cars take a visitor to the entrance gates. A steamer at the Stephanie Bridge takes one to Nussdorf. Take a cog-wheel railway, and go up to the Kahlenberg, which is 1,456 feet high, and from which there is a fine view. Near the terminus of the railway is the Stephanie Tower, the best point for the view. Admission, 40 Heller (8 cents). WARWICK (J to 1 day).— The grand old Palace of the Earl of Warwick, the Leicester Hospital, and the old Church of St. Mary. 145 EUROPEAN GUIDE WIESBADEN (h to 1 day).— The Kockbrunnen (Hot Spring), the Kursaal and Gardens. Take the electric tramway for the Neroberg. Walk up through the beautiful wood to the summit. Visit the Greek Chapel. A WINTER RESORT. In addition to the southern countries as fashionable re- sorts for the winter, St. Moritz in the Engadine offers many attractions that draw an increasing number of visitors each year. The winter sports are made much of, and the clear, bracing air is delightful. The direct route from London takes only twenty-six hours. Tickets, 1st class, £6 lQs. U. ($34.08); 2d class, M 15s. 6d. ($23.87). NOTABLE RESTAURANTS. Amsterdam: Krasnapolsky. Berlin: Monopol, 10 Friedrichstrasse. Clausing's for Weiss Beer, once a great favor- ite with the Berliners, 80 Zimmerstrasse. Berliner Ratskeller, in the Rathaus. Cafe Bauer, 26 Unter den Linden. Cafe Westminster, 17-18 Unter den Linden. London: Holborn, 218 High Holborn. Frascati, 26 Oxford Street. St. James, 24 Piccadilly. Simpson's (fish dinners), 3 Bird-in-Hand Court, Cheapside. Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate Street, within. Tivoli, Strand. Cafe Royal, 63 Regent Street. Milan: Caffe Cova, Via Giuseppe Verdi. Evening concert in summer. Savini, near Arch of Peace. Concert Garden. Gambrinus Halle, in the Galleria Victor Eman- uel. Concert. 146 EUROPEAN GUIDE Munich: The Ratskeller, in the Rathaus. " Cafe Luitpold, 8 Briennerstrasse. " Hofbrauhauskeller, 12 Innere Wienstrasse. " Lowenbraukeller 2 Nymphenburgerstrasse. Nice: Restaurant Francais, Promenade des Anglais. Paris: Cafe de la Paix, corner Avenue de l'Opera and the Boulevard. " Cafe de Paris, 41 Avenue de l'Opera. " Cafe Riche, 16 Boulevard des Italiens. " Cafe Anglais, 13 Boulevard des Italiens. " Cafe Americain, Boulevard des Italiens. " Ambassadeurs, Champs-Elvsees. " Eldorado, 4 Boulevard Strassbourg. " * Cabaret du Ciel, 51 Boulevard de Clichy. " * L'Enfer, 53 Boulevard de Clichy. " * Cabaret of Death, Boulevard de Clichy. " Maxim's, 3 Rue Royale. " Taverne Royale, 25 Rue Royale. Hungarian Band. " (Latin Quarter) Taverne du Palais, 5 Place Saint Michel. " Afternoon Tea, at the " Rovalty," 6 Rue Royale. Afternoon Tea, at Smith's Tea Rooms, 248 Rue de Rivoli. Venice: Restaurant Bauer, Ponte San Moise. " Florian's, Piazza San Marco. This restaurant has not been closed night or day for over 300 years. " Quadri, Piazza San Marco. Vienna: Deutsches Haus, 4 Stephansplatz. " Cafe de l'Europe, 8 Stephansplatz. " Hopfner, 61 Karntnerstrasse. " Hartmann, 10 Kartnerring. " Arcaden Cafe, 3 University Strasse. " The Ratskeller, in the Rathaus. " The Cafes in the Volksgarten. * Curious spectacle for amusement. 147 Chapter VII. GUIDE BOOKS. Each city has a local Guide Book that is al- ways useful, and there are catalogues at each Gallery and Museum. For general use, however, the traveller should have the Baedeker Guide Books. They are as complete as space allows, and they include plans of cities, maps of countries, full catalogues of all Galleries and Museums, detailed descriptions of routes in every direction, and information as to hotels. While they are expensive, as many are needed in an extended tour, they are valuable ever after for reference. The following Baedekeis. may be had at all first-class bookstores in both the United States and Europe: — Great Britain, $3.00. London and its Environs, $1.80. The United States, $3.60. The Dominion of Canada, $1.50. Austria (including Hungary), $2.40. Belgium and Holland, $1.80. Egypt, $4.50. France, Northern, $2.10. France, Southern, $2.70. Paris and its Environs, $1.80. Germany, Northern, $2.40. Germany, Southern, $1.80. Berlin and its Environs, 90 cents. The Rhine, $2.10. Greece, $2.40. Italy from Alps to Naples, $2.40. Italy, Northern, $2.40. Italy, Central, $2.25. Italy, Southern, $1.80. Norway, Sweden, Denmark, $2.40. Palestine and Syria, $3.60. Spain and Portugal, $4.80. Switzerland, $2.40. Manual of Conversation, 90 cents. 148 EUROPEAN GUIDE For general detail, in brief form, the Satchel Guide is excellent, and it is kept carefully revised. Thomas Cook & Son have a complete list of good Guide Books that are cheaper than the Baedeker books. For Ireland, Scotland, and the English Lakes, Black's Guide Books are satisfactory. Murray's "In Ireland" is also good. The Murray and O'Shea Guide Books are good for Spain. Murray and Macmillan have carefully revised books for the Mediterranean. The Index Guide is admirable for general use and for its aid in the Galleries. Special atten- tion is given to Art. *^ " Hare's Walks " and Hare's books upon travel listed in the following list are a treasure-house of information as to historical, archaeological, and antiquarian points of interest, and, what is as im- portant, they are interesting reading. The David * McKay edition of Hare is less expensive than the Macmillan edition, and the binding is more attractive. The above books give brief outlines on Art and Architecture. Individual taste and knowledge will help the traveller in selecting from the follow- ing carefully prepared list of books those needed for preparation. 149 EUROPEAN GUIDE GENERAL TOUR. An effort has been made to classify these books so that one may at a glance select the reading most useful for a trip. Over the Ocean. By Curtis Guild. 1871. Lothrop. Somewhat old, but still a very interesting and valuable nar- rative of the grand tour, — Queenstown, Blarney, Dublin, Chester, Liverpool, English Lakes, Edinburgh, Scottish Lakes, Glasgow, York, Warwick, Stratford-on-Avon, Oxford, Lon- don, Paris, Brussels, Antwerp, Cologne, Rhine, Frankfort, Heidelberg, Wiesbaden, Strassburg, Zurich, Lucerne, Inter- laken, Berne, Geneva, Chamounix, Tete Noire Pass, Italian Lakes, Munich, Vienna, Venice, Florence, Pisa, Genoa, Lon- don. I recommend. Abroad Again. By Curtis Guild. 1877. Lothrop. A sequel to "Over the Ocean. " Describes visits, — London, Rome, Venice, Verona, Innsbruck, the Tyrol, Upper Enga- dine, Dresden, Berlin, and cities of Holland. Beaten Paths. Bv E. W. Thompson. 1874. Lothrop. A bright little account of a woman's vacation, embracing Scotland, London, Belgium, Germany, Rhine, Switzerland, Paris. Lazy Tours in Spain and Elsewhere. By Louise Chandler Moulton. 1896. Little, Brown & Co. A bright narrative of a journey embracing Spain, Southern Italy, Rome, Florence, Paris, Switzerland, and the health resorts of France, Germany, and England. Transatlantic Sketches. By Henry James. 1903. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. Covers a portion of England and the Continent, — Switzerland, Italy, Netherlands. 150 EUROPEAN GUIDE A Satchel Guide. By W. J. Rolfe. Maps. 1905. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. A compact itinerary of the British Isles, Belgium, Holland, Germany, Rhine, Switzerland, France, Austria, Italy. Index Guide to Travel and Art in Europe By L. C. Loomis. 1870. Scribner. Scenery, art, history, legend, and myth together with routes. Mediaeval Towns Series. Illustrated. Macmillan. A volume is devoted to each of the following cities, giving its story: Rouen, Seville, Siena, Moscow, Florence, Bruges, Brussels, Assisi, Nuremberg, Chartres, Constantinople, Cairo, Prague, Toledo, Ferrara, Venice, Paris, Edinburgh, Cam- bridge, Perugia, Rome, London, Verona, Oxford, Avignon, Canterbury, Ravenna. The Mediterranean Trip. By Noah Brooks. Illustrated. 1895. Scribner. Furnishes the tourist with brief but sufficient information to guide his steps in the countries visited so as to make the most of his time, — Azores, Genoa, Monte Carlo, Nice, Malta, Alexandria, Cairo, Jaffa, Jerusalem, Smyrna, Constantinople, Athens, Messina, Palermo, Naples, Tunis, A Summer in the Azores, with a Glimpse of Madeira. By C. A. Blake. 1882. Lothrop. Brief account of a trip to the Azores, giving a good deal of information. GREAT BRITAIN. Walks in London. By A. J. C. Hare. David McKay. A very valuable and comprehensive account of London, its points of interest and their historical and literary associa- tions. I recommend. 151 EUROPEAN GUIDE London and its Celebrities. By J. H. Jesse. 3 vols. Illus- trated. L. C. Page & Co. One of the most interesting accounts of the historical spots of London ever written. The book goes into great detail, being a treasure-house of antiquarian and historical infor- mation. Literary and Historical Memorial of London. By J. H. Jesse. 2 vols. Illustrated. L. C. Page & Co. This book does for the West End, Drury Lane, Westminster, Covent Garden, Whitehall, and the Tower what "London and its Celebrities" does for the rest of London. Dickens's London. By Francis Miltoun. 29 illustrations. 1903. L. C. Page & Co. A delightful volume for the lover of Dickens and London alike, describing the haunts of Dickens, sketch of life, resi- dence, the literary association about Fleet Street, places de- scribed in Dickens's works, quotations, and much useful in- formation about London. Milton's England. By L. A. Mead. 31 illustrations. 1902. L. C. Page & Co. Descriptive of London in Milton's time and incidents of Mil- ton's life. The Children of Westminster Abbey. By R. G. Kingsley. Illustrated. 1886. Lothrop. Written for children and others, giving the history of West- minster and of those buried there. Handbook of English Cathedrals. By S. Van Rensselaer. Illustrated. 1893. Century Company. The history and architecture of the cathedrals of Canterbury, Peterborough, Durham, Salisbury, Lichfield, Lincoln, Ely, Wells, Winchester, Gloucester, York, and London. A Trip to England. By Goldwin Smith. 1895. Macmillan. Sums up what an intelligent reader would like to know as to characteristics of English landscape and history. 152 EUROPEAN GUIDE England Within and Without. By Richard Grant White. 1881. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. A most interesting book on English life and character, with much pleasant account of travel. London Films. By William D. Howells. 24 illustrations. 1906. Harper's. In Howells's delightful vein, descriptive of social life and man- ners in London's "season." Certain Delightful English Towns. By William D. Howells. 1906. Harper. Mr. Howells leads us through Exeter, Bath, Wells, Bristol, Canterbury, Oxford, Chester, Malvern, Shrewsbury, North- port, and the country in between. Through Mr. Howells's eyes we seem to catch the spirit of each place. Shakespeare's England. By W. Winter. Macmillan. Literary impressions and thoughts dealing with a tour, in- cluding London, Windsor, Warwick, Stratford-on-Avon. Gray Days and Gold. By W. Winter. Macmillan. Literary impressions of York, Wordsworth's, Scott's, John- son's, Shakespeare's, and Byron's country. Cathedral Days. By A. B. Dodd. Illustrated. 1899. Little, Brown & Co. Six weeks' driving tour through cathedral towns of Southern England, — descriptive. Among English Inns. By Josephine Tozier. 33 illustra- tions. 1904. L. C. Page & Co. A narrative of a journey to interesting places and character- istic spots in England not usually visited by the tourist, in- cluding Selborne, Chagford, Clovelly, Evesham, Rowsley, Hardwick, Dukeries, Boston, Norwich, (literary shrines). 153 EUROPEAN GUIDE Old England and its Scenery, Art, and People. By James M. Hoppin. 1867. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. Somewhat old, but good, descriptive of principal cities, lake country, cathedral towns, literary shrines, university towns, scenic districts, and many interesting places. A very com- prehensive book. Romantic Edinburgh. By John Geddie. Illustrated. 1900. E. P. Dutton & Co. A book full of historical and descriptive matter that will help one in planning what to see. Scotland, Historic and Romantic. By Maria Hornor Lands- dale. 53 photogravures. 2 vols. 1901. Winston. Covers the greater part of Scotland including Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford, Ayr, Glasgow, Sterling, The Trossachs. Edinburgh Picturesque Notes. By Robert Louis Stevenson. Scribner. Descriptive of parts of Edinburgh, but does not include the chief attractions. Lands of Scott. By J. F. Hunnewell. 1899. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. Scenes associated with Scott's novels. In the Hebrides. By C. F. G. Cumming. Scribner. A delightful descriptive account of a visit to the Western Isles of Scotland in the early eighties. Wild Wales. By G. H. Barrow. Scribner. An old book, but a valuable description of people and scenery. Highways and Byways in North Wales. By A. G. Bradley. Illustrated. 1898. Macmillan. For its artistic accuracy, its gentle humor, it deserves to rank with the best books on Welsh travel. 154 EUROPEAN GUIDE Komantic Ireland. By M. T. and B. M. Mansfield. 2 vols. 90 illustrations. 1904. L. C. Page & Co. Describes the grand tour of Ireland, adding notes of historic and antiquarian interest and much other valuable informa- tion. NETHERLANDS. Belgium. By Grant Allen. 2 vols. 82 illustrations. 1903. L. C. Page & Co. Supplies the tourist with historical and antiquarian infor- mation, together with a description of the art treasures of the cities of Belgium, Bruges, Ghent, Brussels, and Antwerp. May be used as a guide book. The American in Holland. By W. E. Griffis, L.H.D. 17 illustrations. 1900. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. A very comprehensive account of sentimental rambles in the eleven provinces of the Netherlands. I recommend, as it contains much valuable description and many historical notes. Holland. By E. De Amicis. 2 vols. 44 photogravures. 1894. Winston. A book giving much information regarding the chief cities of Holland, Zealand, Rotterdam, Delft, The Hague, Leyden, Haarlem, Amsterdam, Utrecht, Brock, Zaandam, Alkmaar, Friesland, Groningen, Arnheim, etc. Sketches in Holland and Scandinavia. By A. J. C. Hare. Illustrated. 1884. David McKay. A very brief sketch of the author's tour through Holland, Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, only 134 pages. Through the Gates of the Netherlands. By Mary E. Waller. 24 photogravures. 1906. Little, Brown & Co. Fascinating account of an American couple's housekeeping and wanderings in Holland, with a graphic description of the life of the people. 155 EUROPEAN GUIDE FRANCE. Walks in Paris. By A. J. C. Hare. 1888. David McKay. A very valuable and comprehensive account of Paris, its points of interest and their historical association. I recom- mend especially. Days near Paris. By A. J. C. Hare. Illustrated. David McKay. A book of great value to one wishing to visit the important suburbs of Paris. Paris. By Grant Allen. 2 vols. 82 illustrations. 1901. L. C. Page & Co. Supplies the tourist with historical and antiquarian infor- mation, together with a description of the art treasures of Paris. May be used as a guide book. Dumas' Paris. By Francis Miltoun. 35 illustrations. 1904. L. C. Page & Co. Paris of Dumas' day, his haunts, sketches of his life, scenes of his stories, history, quotations from his works. About Paris. By Richard Harding Davis. 29 illustrations. 1895. Harper Brothers. Papers about Parisian Bohemian life, chapters on streets of Paris, show places, Paris in mourning, Grand Prix, Americans in Paris. A Woman's Paris. Illustrated. 1900. Small, Maynard & Co. A handbook of every-day living in Paris, and valuable to those contemplating taking apartments or arranging to spend a long time in the city. A Little Tour in France. By Henry James. 1884. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. A delightful account, in the author's best vein, of his tour through France, embodying in his description both literary and historical association. Tours, Blois, Chambord, Am- 156 EUROPEAN GUIDE boise, Chaumont, Chenonceaux, Azay-le-Rideau, Langeais, Loches, Bourges, Le Mans, Angers, Nantes, La Rochelle, Poitiers, Toulouse, Carcassonne, Narbonne, Montpellier, Aigues Mortes, Nimes, Tarascon, Ailes, Les Baux, Avignon, Orange, Macon, Dijon. Northeastern France "] Northwestern France. (By A. J. C. Hare. Southeastern France. [ Macmillan. Southwestern France. J Of great interest and service to one doing France in detail, full of historical and antiquarian data. Rambles in Normandy. By Francis Miltoun. 80 illustra- tions. 1905. L. C. Page & Co. Record of a series of ramblings in and off the beaten track, with much interesting matter relative to the people and their occupation, with a few facts of history and romance. Rambles in Brittany. By Francis Miltoun. 90 illustrations. 1906. L. C. Page & Co. A most interesting account of the province, its people, and a sketch of its history, together with a description of its princi- pal places of interest. Churches and Castles of Mediaeval France. By W. C. Lamed. Illustrated. 1895. Scribner. Records a traveller's impressions of the great monuments of France, includes those of the cities of Amiens, Beauvais, Chartres, Tours, Caen, Rouen, Mont St. Michel, Carcassonne, Poitiers, Chinon, etc. Cathedrals of Northern France. By Francis Miltoun. Many illustrations. 1903. L. C. Page & Co. Brief sketch of the cathedrals and towns of Northern France. The Cathedrals of Southern France. By Francis Miltoun. 90 illustrations. 1904. L. C. Page & Co. Brief sketches of the cathedrals and towns of Southern France. 157 EUROPEAN GUIDE SWITZERLAND. Romance and Teutonic Switzerland. By W. D. McCracken. 2 vols. Illustrations. 1894. L. C. Page & Co. A comprehensive description and historical account of the points of interest in Switzerland. I recommend. Switzerland and the Rhine. By Joel Cook. 25 photogra- vures. 1904. John C. Winston. Scenic description, history, and romance of the principal routes through Switzerland and the Rhine, — Lausanne, Ge- neva, Martigny, Chamounix, Fribourg, Berne. Interlaken, Zermatt, the Simplon, Lucerne, Zurich, St. Gotthard, Italian Lakes, Basle, Strassburg, Baden-Baden, and the cities of the Rhine Valley in Germany and Holland. ITALY. Walks in Rome. By A. J. C. Hare. David McKay. A valuable and very comprehensive description of Rome and its historical spots. Very readable. Days near Rome. By A. J. C. Hare. Macmillan. Very interesting and important to one wishing to study the suburbs of Rome. Cities of Northern Italy. By A. J. C. Hare. 2 vols. David McKay. A valuable book, describing in Hare's detailed manner the points of historical and antiquarian interest in the Riviera, Genoa, Turin, Milan, Pavia, Italian Lakes, Verona, Mantua, Vicenza, Padua, Venice, Ferrara, Piacenza, Parma, Reggio, Modena and Bologna. Cities of Central Italy. By A. J. C. Hare. Illustrated. Macmillan. Decidedly the book to possess if one wants to see other than Rome and Florence in Central Italy. 158 EUROPEAN GUIDE Cities of Southern Italy and Sicily. By A. J. C. Hare. Il- lustrated. 1882. David McKay. A volume of the highest importance to one who is planning a visit to Southern Italy. It not only describes with inter- esting detail Naples and Sicily, but the towns from Rome to Naples and the spots of interest both on the Mediteranean and Adriatic coasts. I recommend. Rome. By W. T. Field. 2 vols. 85 illustrations. 1904. L. C. Page & Co. Tells interestingly and briefly of the really important things to be seen in Rome, with an account of their history. Can be used as a guide book. Florence and Venice. By A. J. C. Hare. Illustrated. Macmillan. Valuable as a most interesting detailed description of the above cities, together with many historical and archaeological notes. Tuscan Cities. By William D. Howells. 1885. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. One of the author's charming books about Italy and Italian life, unlike the usual works upon travel, but containing much important description of Florence, Siena, Pisa, Pistoja, Prato, and Fiesole. Venice. By Grant Allen. 2 vols. 82 illustrations. 1902. L. C. Page & Co. A very interesting description of the historical and antiqua- rian Venice, with an account of its art treasures. Can be used as a guide book. Cities of Northern Italy. By Grant Allen and G. C. Will- iams. 2 vols. 82 illustrations. 1906. L. C. Page & Co. Supplies the tourist with historical and antiquarian infor- mation about Milan, Verona, Padua, Bologna, and Ravenna, with an account of their art treasures. 159 EUROPEAN GUIDE Florence. By Grant Allen. 2 vols. 82 illustrations. 1901. L. C. Page & Co. Supplies the tourist with historical and antiquarian infor- mation, together with a description of the art treasures of Florence. May be used as a guide book. Italian Journeys. By William D. Howells. 70 illustrations. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. A delightful account of Mr. Howells's interpretation of the charms of Venice, Naples, Rome, Pisa, and Genoa. Hill Towns of Italy. By E. R. Williams, Jr. 37 illustra- tions. 1903. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. A description of visits of the author to the hill towns of Cen- tral Italy, together with a description of the people and their art treasures. Valuable to one going out of the beaten paths. Venetian Life. By William D. Howells. 1867. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. A fascinating account of Venice and its people. Mr. Howells was for four years consul to Venice, and knows the cities as few Americans do. GREECE. The Isles and Shrines of Greece. By Samuel J. Barrows. 19 illustrations. 1898. Little, Brown & Co. A narrative of a tour through Greece, portraying the modern life, describing the land, and giving much important historical and antiquarian information. AUSTRIA, HUNGARY, GERMANY. Austro-Hungarian Life in Town and Country. By F. H. E. Palmer. Illustrated. 1903. G. P. Putnam's Sons. A good insight into the life in the country. The Fair Land Tyrol. By W. D. McCracken. 32 illustra- tions. 1905. L. C. Page & Co. An invaluable book for one planning to visit the Tyrol. De- scribes its glorious scenery, its people, its places of historical 160 EUROPEAN GUIDE interest, and gives a sketch of the life of more than one no- table character. Among Bavarian Inns. By F. R. Fraprie. 32 illustrations. 1906. L. C. Page & Co. A narrative of a little journey to the Bavarian Highlands. Midsummer Rambles in the Dolomites. By A. B. Edwards. 1889. Routledge. The classic book of travel in this region. Vienna and the Viennese. By M. H. Lansdale. 25 photo- gravures. 1902. Winston. Describes people, customs, life, historical associations. The Rhine. By Victor Hugo. Illustrated. 1848. Estes. Description of the author's tour, together with history and legend. RUSSIA, NORWAY, SWEDEN. Studies in Russia. By A. J. C. Hare. Illustrated. David McKay. A volume of the highest value to one about to visit Russia, containing a most interesting account in detail of the places worth visiting, together with their historical and archaeologi- cal associations. I strongly recommend. Russian Rambles. By Isabel F. Hapgood. 1895. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. A bright and intensely interesting account of St. Petersburg and Moscow, the life and character of their people. The book corrects many of the absurd ideas which are current about Russia. Land of the Midnight Sun. By P. B. Du Chaillu. Illus- trated. 2 vols. 1882. Harper Brothers. Fine descriptions of scenery and characteristics of the coun- try and an accurate and sympathetic account of the peasantry. 161 EUROPEAN GUIDE SPAIN. Wanderings in Spain. By A. J. C. Hare. Illustrated. David McKay. A detailed and valuable record of the author's comprehensive tour through Spain, — much information. I recommend strongly. Castilian Days. By John Hay. 1871. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. A delightful volume of the author's experiences in Spain when he was a member of our legation, chiefly of Madrid and Toledo. Contains much information. Seven Spanish Cities. By Edward E. Hale. 1883. Little, Brown & Co. A short description of the author's trip through Spain. A Corner of Spain. By Miriam Coles Harris. 1898. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. A brief volume of Spanish life and character, chiefly descrip- tive of Malaga. HISTORY. Short History of the English People. By J. R. Green. American Book. Passes lightly over detail of wars, personal adventure of royalty, etc., but dwells on the history of the people. The Story of France. By Thomas E. Watson. 2 vols. 1889. Macmillan. A popular history from the earliest times to the consulate of Napoleon I. Very readable. Vol. 1. The Gauls to Last Year of Louis XV. Vol. 2. Death of Louis XV. to the Consulate. 162 EUROPEAN GUIDE Italy: Her People and their Story. By Augusta H. Gilford. Illustrated. 1905. Lothrop. A popular history of the beginning, rise, development, and progress of Italy from the time of Romulus to that of Victor Emanuel III. Germany: Her People and their Story. By Augusta H. Gifford. Illustrated. 1899. Lothrop. A popular history of the beginnings, rise, development, and progress of the German Empire |from Arminius to William II. Annals of Switzerland. By J. M. Colton. Barnes. A clear, simple, and interesting history. Story of Holland. Bv J. E. T. Rogers. Illustrated. 1889. G. P. Putnam's Sons. Outlines history from earliest time to 1813. Rise of the Dutch Republic. By Motley. 3 vols. Dutton. Vivid portrayal of Holland's struggle for freedom under Will- iam of Orange in sixteenth century. Spain: Its Greatness and Decay. By M. A. S. Hume. Macmillan. A valuable one-volume history of Spain's most important period. History of Russia from the Birth of Peter the Great to Nicholas H. By W. R. Morfee. 1902. Pott. Brief and interesting. BOOKS ON ART. Paintings of the Louvre: Italian and Spanish. By Dr. Arthur Mahler. 168 illustrations. 1905. Doubleday, Page & Co. 163 EUROPEAN GUIDE The Art of the Pitti Palace. By J. W. Addison. 40 illustra- tions. 1903. L. C. Page & Co. Short history of palace and an appreciation of its art treasures. The Art of the Louvre. By M. K. Potter. 49 illustrations. 1904. L. C. Page & Co. Brief history of palace and collection of paintings, with de- scription and criticisms. The Art of the Venice Academy. By M. K. Potter. 48 illus- trations. 1905. L. C. Page & Co. Brief history of building and its collection of paintings, with criticisms. Art of the Dresden Gallery. By Julia de W. Addison. 40 illustrations. 1906. L. C. Page & Co. Description of the chief art treasures of the Dresden Gallery, together with much valuable criticism. The Art of the Vatican. By Mary Knight Potter. 41 illus- trations. 1902. L. C. Page & Co. Brief history of palace, with account of its principal art treas- The Art of the National Gallery. By J. W. Addison. 48 illustrations. 1905. L. C. Page & Co. Critical survey of schools and painters represented in the British collection. Art of the Prado, Madrid. By Julia de W. Addison. 40 illus- trations. 1907. L. C. Page & Co. Brief history of building and its collection of paintings and How to study Pictures. By C. H. Caffin. 56 illustrations. 1905. Century Company. Volume by a leading art critic, giving comprehensive knowledge of the history, biography, and development of the pictorial art. 164 EUROPEAN GUIDE Memoirs of Early Italian Painters. By Anna Jameson. Illustrated. 1895. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. Short account of the lives and works of Italian painters. Sketches of Great Painters. By C. M. Dallin. 54 illustra- tions. 1902. Silver, Burdett & Co. Object of the book is to interest young people in the lives and work of the masters of painting. Embraces from Giotto, 1276, to Turner, 1851. Appendix contains list of important paintings of each artist and where they are. Sacred and Legendary Art. By Anna Jameson. 2 vols. Illustrated. 1895. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. A short account of the lives and legends of the patron saints of Eastern and Western Christendom, together with their history in art. Legends of the Madonna. By Anna Jameson. Illustrated. 1895. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. Legends of the Madonna in their association with art. Legends of the Monastic Orders. By Anna Johnson. Illus- trated. 1895. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. Legends and history of the monastic orders in their relation to art. Handbook of Legendary and Mythological Art. By C. E. Clement. Illustrated. 1881. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. An encyclopaedia of legends and stories of saints, places, and incidents that have been illustrated in art. Painters, Sculptors, Architects, Engravers, and their Work. By C. E. Clement. Illustrated. 1881. Houghton, Mifflin & Co. A one-volume encyclopaedia of the lives and principal works of famous artists, etc. The Art of the Netherlands Galleries. By Esther Singleton. 40 illustrations. 1907. L. C. Page. A book descriptive of the art treasures of the galleries of the Netherlands. 165 Chapter VIII. HOTELS. RATES. Hotels where chamber, lights, attendance, plain breakfast, luncheon, and dinner at the table d'hote may be obtained for $3 a day and up, according to position of chamber, are marked f. Hotels where the same service will cost $2 a day and up, according to position of chamber, are marked*. In London, Berlin, Rome, Paris, etc., I have indicated by the mark § hotels that cost $3 a day and up for room, lights, attendance, with- out food. These are the best hotels the cities afford. Algiers and Morocco. Algiers. f Hotel St. George. f Grand Hotel (Mustapha). Biskra. f Royal Hotel. Bone. f Grand Hotel d'Orient. Bougie. f Hotel d'Orient. El-Guerrah. f Hotel d'El-Guerrah. Kroubs. f Hotel Victoria. Setif . f Hotel de France. Tunis. f Hotel de Paris. f Grand Hotel de France. Austria-Hungary. Budapest. f Grand Hotel Hungaria. f Grand Hotel Royal. 166 EUROPEAN GUIDE Budapest, f Hotel Jagerhom. Carlsbad. f Hotel Hanover. 25 Sonnenberg- Villa Hertha, 3 Neubauerstrasse. 176 Chapter IX. FINAL SUGGESTIONS. Local Guides. A local guide is often of the greatest service in the large cities. Much time is saved by having some one who understands how to get about quickly and who can point out the important things to be seen. At any hotel good guides will be furnished upon application. Thomas Cook & Son make a specialty of this service, and their men may be engaged by the day or the week. Prices depend upon the class of service required, and range from $2 to $3 a day. Couriers to travel and take full charge of all details of a journey may be engaged through Thomas Cook & Son. Arrange to use a Cable Code, if needed for im- portant matters. There are many good Code Books. The "Adams" is especially practical. The Western Union Company has an Inter- national Code Book that will be found in all the chief international business offices of Europe. A private code may be made, and in this event take duplicate copies, and keep them in two separate places, as a cable message by a private code is useless without the key by which to read it. 177 EUROPEAN GUIDE Money may be cabled to Europe through the American Express Company at reasonable rates. In addition to the cost of the message, the rates are in this proportion : — $100 and under $0.50 Over 100 to $200 1.25 200 " 300 1.50 300 " 400 1.75 400 " 500 4.00 Identification will be waived if requested by sender. Money will be delivered at hotel or pensions, as directed, or it will be held for de- livery at the company office. Give careful in- structions as to this matter of delivery. TABLE OF KILOMETERS. Miles. Kilometers. 1 1.609 2 3.219 3 4.828 4 6.437 5 8.047 6 9.66 7 11.27 10 16.09 20 32.2 50 80.47 100 160.93 178 EUROPEAN GUIDE TABLE OF METRES. Metres. Yards. Feet. 1 1.09 3.281 5 5.45 16.404 10 10.936 82.809 20 21.87 65.618 50 54.68 164.045 100 109.36 328.09 PUBLIC HOLIDAYS IN EUROPE. In Belgium: New Year's Day, January 1. Easter. Ascension Day. Whit-Monday. National Fete, July 21. Assumption, August 15. All Saints' Day. Christmas Day, December 25. In France: New Year's Day, January 1. Easter. Ascension Day. Whit-Monday. National Fete, July 14. Assumption, August 15. All Saints' Day. Christmas Day, December 25. In Switzerland: New Year's Day, January 1. Good Friday. Easter. Whit-Monday. National Fete, September 19. Christmas Day, December 25. 179 EUROPEAN GUIDE In Germany: New Year's Day, January 1. Good Friday. Easter. Ascension Day. Whit-Monday. Day of Prayer, November 18. Christmas Day, December 25. Thermometers. Germany, Austro-Hungary, and Russia, and those cantons of Switzerland along the German frontier use the Reaumur Thermometer. The other cantons of Switzerland, Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, and Greece use the Centigrade. In England and in Holland the Fahrenheit is used. The Return Voyage. Having made one trip across the ocean, all details relative to the return voyage are well understood. The two important things to at- tend to at once are the engaging of seats at table and reserving the hour for the baths. The customs officers come on board in the harbor at whatever point of landing. They go at once to the dining saloon, and passengers form in lines, and await their turn to make the declaration in regard to what they have as to baggage, and sign and swear to this declaration. 180 EUROPEAN GUIDE Remember that the United States government does not demand a minute statement as to small private purchases. For instance, there is a duty on gloves, to protect merchants who buy gloves abroad and pay duties on them. These mer- chants keep these gloves for the accommodation of their patrons. It would not be just to allow individuals to bring into the country an unlimited number of these gloves, but there is nothing to prevent each person having a reasonable supply. So, when the question as to gloves is asked, it is not merely, " Have you any gloves ?" but it is, "Have you any gloves upon which you should pay a duty ?" If there is any feeling of uncertainty about the matter of duty, the officer who is asking the ques- tions will explain if so requested. Each person is allowed to bring into the United States personal wearing apparel to the value of $100, and this must be remembered in making the declaration. It should be understood that, if the declaration specifies any stated amount as dutiable, the goods to equal this amount must be shown to the official. Having signed the declaration, a card with a num- ber is handed to the passenger. This number corresponds with the number on the paper signed. 181 EUROPEAN GUIDE Having landed at the pier, after the stewards have brought the baggage from the ship, get it all together. Then join the line to wait for a turn to get an officer to examine it. Upon reaching the desk and handing the num- bered card to the officer in charge, the paper signed on the ship is handed to an officer stand- ing in line, and he is ready to look at the baggage. Open it freely, and, as he compares the signed paper with what he finds, be ready to help him, and explain anything he asks about. If, by chance, there should be something not declared, about which this officer does not feel quite satisfied, it is taken to a chief inspector, who passes upon it. If he says duties should be paid, remember he is a government official and in authority. He will be courteous and reasonable, and the goods will be held safely till they can be sent for, if it is not convenient to pay the duties at once. The officers are in a trying position. They have a duty to perform, and must carefully watch for due returns to the government. A cheerful recognition of this will make their duty light. The baggage having been examined and marked, express agents are at hand to forward it to any part of the United States, or carriages may be engaged for any station or hotel. 182 INDEX. Introduction. page Articles for Duty 34 Baggage: How to find 34 Labels 6, 26 Storage and Transfer 6 At the Dock 27 To London 36 Other English Stations 37 In London 37 Leaving London 37 Registered 38 Allowance in Austria-Hungary 41 " " Belgium 40 " " British Isles 39 " " France 40 " " Germany 41 '« Holland 40 " Italy 41 " " Spain 41 " " Switzerland 40 At Gibraltar 86 Books: General Tour 150 Art 163 Austria-Hungary 160 France 156 Germany 160 Great Britain 152 Greece 160 Guide 148 History 162 Italy 158 Netherlands 155 Norway 161 Russia 161 Spain 162 Sweden 161 Switzerland 158 Codes 177 Continental Weights and Distances 39 Customs Duties 181 Customs Examinations 34 Customs Officials 35 183 INDEX PAGE Deposits, Ship 16 Dining-cars, Sicily 98 Discounts 16 Distances, Continental 39 Doctor, Ship 32 Duties op Ship Stewards 32 Engaging Berths 16 European Railway Fares 103-114 Examination of Baggage 34 Expenses per Day 44 Fees: Shipboard 29, 31 Porters 35, 39 Hotels and Pensions 41 Ferries, Irish Sea 115 Final Suggestions 177 Guide Books 148 Holidays, Public 179 Hotel and Pension Rates 44 Hotel Rates 166 Algiers and Morocco 166 Austria-Hungary 166 Belgium 167 England 167 France 168 Germany 170 Holland 170 Ireland 171 Italy 171 Scotland 172 Sicily 172 Spain 173 Switzerland . . 173 Switzerland (Engadine) 174 Irish Sea Ferries 115 Landing at Algiers 88 " " Bremen 100 " in France 78 " at Genoa 90 " " Gibraltar 84 " " Hamburg 101 " " Naples 91 " " Trieste 99 Local Guides 177 184 INDEX PAGE Mail: Through American Express Company 13 " Bankers 13 Thomas Cook & Son 13 For Hotel or Pension 13 Poste Restante 13 Money: American Money 9 American Express Checks 11 Bills and Gold 12 Circular Notes 13 English Bank Notes 9 Foreign Table 15 Tetter of Credit 10 To cable 178 Night Travel . . . . 115 Outfit for Travel 3 Pension Rates 175 Passports 14 Railway Aids 36 Railway Distances, British 114 Receipts, Steamships 17 Reserved Passages 17 Restaurants, Notable 146 Return Berths 17 Return Orders 17 Return Voyage 180 Route, Arranging 43 Sea-sickness 8 Second-class Berths 26 Shipboard Notes: For Baths 28 " Table Seats 28 " Steamer Chairs 29 " State-room Arrangements 29 " Library 30 " Writing-room 30, 33 " Barber 30 " Wines and Mineral Waters 30 ' Entertainments 30 " Notices and Lost Articles 33 " Letters and Telegrams 33 Sicily, To visit 95 Special Preparatory Study 2 Steamer Chairs 17, 29 185 INDEX PAGE Steamship Lines: Allan Line 19, 20, 21, 23 American Line 23 Anchor Line 21 Atlantic Transport Line 21 Austro American Line 25 Canadian Pacific Line . «, 19, 23 Cunard Line 18, 19, 20, 24, 25 Fabre Line 25 French Mail Line 22 Holland-America Line 22 Hamburg-American Line 22, 24, 25 Italian Royal Mail Line 25 Leyland Line 19 North German Lloyd Line 21, 24, 25 Red Star Line 19, 22, 23, 25 Scandinavian Line 23 White Star Line „ 18, 19, 20, 24, 25 Wilson Line 21 For Egypt 25 Table Kilometers 178 Table Meters 179 Thermometers 180 Tickets (Railway), Various Forms: Circular 62, 117 Circular, London to London 48, 50 Belgian 121 French 118 French, Sectional 119 French Railway Permit 120 German 123 Holland 122 Italian 125 Spanish 126 Switzerland 124 Where to get 126 How to handle 128 Tickets, Railway: From Bremen 101 " Dublin 64, 65 " Dublin to London 65 Tickets, Steamship 17 Time Bell on Ship 33 Time Distances, British 114 Time Tables, To read 129 Transportation : First, Second, and Third Class 46 Trips Outlined: Tour of 56 Days 47 186 ir g \1 INDEX Detailed Cost 48 Tour of 70 Days 48 Detailed Cost 49 Tour of 84 Days 49 Tour of 91 Days 49 Tour of 81 Days 50 Detailed Cost 50 Tour of 141 Days 51-60 Trips in Ireland: From Cork 61, 62 " Killarney 63 " Dublin tb Liverpool 66 " Dublin to Belfast 66 For Ireland, Scotland, England 66, 67 Trips in Scotland: From Glasgow 68, 69 " Oban 68 Trip in Wales 68 Trips from London: Week-end Tickets 69 One Day from London 70 Channel Isles 72 English Lakes 70 Trips from Algiers 88 in Belgium 74 Belgium and the Rhine 74 Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Austria, and Germany, 75 in France 72, 73 from Gibraltar 87 in Holland 75 from Naples 93 from Paris 79-84 Scandinavia and Russia 76 in Scandinavia, Russia, Germany, Austria, and France 77 in Sicily 96 from Trieste 99 from Tunis 90 Weights (Continental) 39 What to see (Cities and Towns) 130-146 What to take 3 Winter Resort , 146 187