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 PROF. M. KAPHAN'S 
 
 
 FOR 
 
 ' M^./.^^' 
 
 , UJl 
 
 The only system of cutting garments so that they 
 
 will fit like a kid glove, with designs for 
 
 patterns, and self-instructive. 
 
 Designed and Arranged l)y 
 WASIIINOTON, 1). C, 
 
 Cf>i>yriirHtecl Ai.i«ust ri, 1890. 
 ALL RtcHTS Rcsenveo. 
 
PROF. M. KAPHAN'S 
 
 '^. ♦ 
 
 FOR 
 
 ', Misses', ™i(im'- 
 
 The only system of cutting garments so that they 
 
 will fit like a kid glove, with designs for 
 
 patterns, and self-instructive. 
 
 Designed and Arranged by 
 WASUINUTON, I). C. 
 
 Copy riq:l-» ted August ri, 1890. 
 
 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
 
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 K 
 
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PREFACE. 
 
 1 take pleasure in introducing to the public the latest improved 
 system for a proper g-iide whereby a lady or child can easily 
 understand and perfect themselves for the purpose of drafting, cutting 
 and fitting my kid-glove garments, the basis for which I intend 
 to introduce to the public in drafting its lines according to 
 its scales, whereby, with the assistance of its actual measurement, 
 can be produced a perfect- fitting garment. This book represents the 
 different novelties in the mode of fitting and shaping the pattern 
 before cutting, when once the outlines are drawn, from number to 
 number, and shaping the same with my monogramed rule, as intro- 
 duced in this book. It will give you the perfect shape and a neat 
 fit. I do not only represent a basque, but also a full line of drapery 
 drafted by the same proportioned dots for its accomplishment. 
 
 A figure is governed by different proportions, and by this system 
 you can produce any shape you desire. There is no trouble for a 
 person to learn. It is as easy to learn as a child learns its A, B, C's, 
 and in order to carry out its perfect principle, by its adoption for the 
 proper and most accurate scale that will produce its perfect result, 
 so that by trying on it cannot be improved. 
 
General Remarks. 
 
 This system contains 36 practical scales, running from 24 to 50 in 
 bust measure, a monogram rule, ami a book of latest designs, worn 
 by ladies, misses and children. In drafting a pattern you may 
 select any one you may desire that will correspond to the actual 
 breast measurement for basques, wrajw, coats or jackets. For skirts 
 or other underwear use hip measure, and in order to draft the same 
 correctly you must have the assistance of your actual measure. You 
 may select any design from this book, and by following the jiumbers 
 on the sfjuare lines you can then only obtain tlie accurate shai^e, as 
 this is the proper object to produce tl/is ki<l g](we-fitting system, and 
 through its simplicity that yoiir mijid woidil l)e able to receive it 
 without any trouble whatever (o learn the same. 
 
M. Kaplian's System of Cutting and Fitting 
 
 so THAT ALL CAN LOOK GENTEEL. 
 
 Every housekeeper who raises a family surely has a sewing-machine 
 that can make all garments if she only has a kid glove-fitting system 
 to cut patterns with, and therefore I place this system before the 
 public in order, with a little studying, that every lady will be 
 able to accomplish the fitting of all styles of basques, drapery, coats, 
 jackets and underwear of all kinds. I have the only, the sim[)lest 
 and the best kid glove-fitting system in the United States. For its 
 simi)licity it cannot l)e surpassed, and as for the latest style it cannot he 
 improved, either in draiiery or in any other way. You will find full 
 designs for dresses, drapery, latest style bas(iues, plain l^asques, coats, 
 wraps and underwear, and, in fact, there is nothing later produced 
 in the United States. I will state that I am a practical cutter in 
 either branch — for ladies and gentlemen. I have worked and made 
 it a study for the past ten years, and at last I have accomplished it. I 
 will give you all .the benefits, as it is something very useful in 
 every household. I will agree to teach you cutting and fitting my 
 system, in less than a week. If you will undertake to learn I Avill 
 leave this system with you if you will pay attention to it. I also 
 agree to leave it at your house for your inspection as to its merits. 
 This is a splendid opportunity to learn how to cut and fit all kinds 
 of garments, and, furthermore, there is nothing more useful in any 
 family as a neat-fitting system, whereby ynn. need not l^e back- 
 ward in cutting and fitting, not alone for yourself, but also for 
 others, if you desire to do so, and it will not take much of your time 
 to learn it. I have instructors for ladies and gentlemen, who will 
 call at your house to give you the lesson, or, if convenient to come to 
 the hotel, they will instruct you there. You can examine the system ; 
 my agents will not annoy you witli it, and at one glance you will 
 perceive that it is just the thing you want. I will be pleased to show 
 jou all. If you have daughters let me teach them, as it will be a 
 benefit to them in the future. It is perfectly safe to give tliis system 
 a fair trial, and no charges will be made if you cannot learn it as I 
 represent it to be, I want agents everywhere, and I will give to 
 ladies and gentlemen a splendid opportunity. It is new, with latest 
 designs, and in a short time it will have a wonderful demand. I 
 would be pleased to see you. 
 
 For further information apply to — 
 
 M. KAPHAN, 
 
 Washington, D. C. 
 
Directions for Taking Measure for Lady's Basque. 
 
 1. Take length of back from neck to waist as low as can be taken. 
 
 2. Length of front from neck to waist as low as can be taken. 
 
 3. Bust — measure over the largest portion of bust and over 
 shoulder blades, not too tight. 
 
 4. Waist measure, tight. 
 
 5. Under arm to waist, low. 
 
 6. Sleeve — The length from pit to elbow, slightly bend; then, 
 full length desired, straight. 
 
 7. Measure for skirt — Take waist measure. 
 
 8. Take hip measure loose. 
 
 9. Full length desired, allow 8 scales for a hem medium size, and 
 for extra size, 6 scales. 
 
 Sleeve measure— 
 
 -Draw your square line 2-3, 3-5)^, ^ oj^' ; that 
 brings to pit of the 'arm, and measure by actual measurement to 
 elbow, and full length desired, 5-26^, 6-38, 7-461^, 8-49)^, 
 9-523^ from 103^ to 46^. Ascertain actual length — 4914 and 52^ 
 are the hem. Turn back to top — 1-8, 2-7, i6j4, 3-4, 5^,4-8, 15, 
 S-S'A^ i2j4. 1634, 6-9^, 13;/, 8-6>^, 9;^, 9-7,954— these sre the 
 numbers for sleeve. Follow hollow rule and shepherd rod, yoti will 
 have a perfect sleeve line. 6-38 is for cuffs. If you desire full or 
 plaited sleeve, as you see in the diagram, also bell sleeve and mutton- 
 leg sleeve, follow rule and you can accomplish everything. 
 
 Collar — Lay off square line — JX, 14, 14^'^, length ; 5 and 5)^, 
 width. 
 
Mode of Drafting a Lady's Basque. 
 
 1. Select a scale that will correspond with bust or breast measure, 
 say 36, so as to draft the entire pattern. 
 
 Draw a stjuare line, as indicated in my system, direct your atten- 
 tion to the basque pattern, and follow the linec down from first point 
 and stop at under arm mark. Commence from line 2-2^2 > 3-4 3^> 
 4-T/4, H' <^-i4/^> 7-15X J this will bring you to the underarm ; 
 take tape line, measure from 8 to 32 ; that will bring you to the 
 waist measure, in order to find out the actual measurement and 
 length from under arm to waist. 8-32^ and 9-23^^ are the 
 measure for the darts. Continue from 10-32, 11-34, 12-35, i3-40> 
 14-413^, 15-43;^, 16-45 14 ^^^ 17-47/^ ; that is the full length of 
 the front, and if you wish to lower or raise the size you must do it 
 from 7-15%^ to 10-32 ; you then draw straight lines across. 
 
 Commence from the top line — 1-7^, 2-8, 19}^, 3-183^, 5-3^^, 
 6-19, 24, 7-22 (8-15}^ and 9-10^ dart numbers), 10-7)^, 12, 14, 
 
 2o%> ii-3i/^» 12-30. i3-22M» i4-i5» 15-8^, 10 and i7-3X« 
 Take the hollow rule, with monogram name and town, viz : M, A, N, 
 H, E, I, M, K, A, P, H, A, N, J, O, H. N, S, T. O, N. The dots 
 under the letters are to distinguish the different letters you want for 
 the hollow rule, also a guide i)i the shape of a shepherd's rod, 
 thus ^S~~"~~> indicates the manner in which you wish to place 
 the hollow rule in order to draft correctly. 
 
 2 . SiWe Piece to Front — Form your square line again — 2-2 ^ , 3-1 1 , 
 4-23 and 5-24_;.< — that is the full length. Turn again to top — i-i}(, 
 2-3^. 7^. 9' 3-2^2, 7. ^H> 4-3. 9/4 ''^nd loi^— follow the hollow 
 rule according to directions ; raise or lower from 2-2^ to 1-23. . 
 
 3. SiWe Piece to Back — Form square line — 2-4 }4, 3-ri, 4-141^, 
 5-27, 6-2834 md 7-32. Go back to top — i~-2^/l, 2-6, 8, 3-5^, 
 71.^, 5-1^, qyi, 6-8 and 7-3 X — that is the full measure of side 
 piece to back. Always be careful that it will correspond with under 
 arm to waist. Raise or lower from 2-43^ to 5-27. 
 
 4. Back — Draw a square line — 2-1'^, 3-2^2* ASHt S-1%> 
 6-1 3 J^ — this brings you to the underarm. If you wish to laise or 
 lower from under arm — 6-i3J4^ to 8-30)^. Waist measure, 7-i7/4^> 
 8-30^, 9-35>^, 10-41 T^ and 11-45 j t^^^t is the full length. Turn 
 again to top— 1-5 '4, 2-4;^, 4-1 5)4, 5-1 4^, 6-14)4:, 7-9 )4, 8-5 )4, 
 9-5)4: and 10-6— that is full length of back. Follow letters and 
 shepherd rod as indicated in the diagram, and you will have a perfect 
 basque. 
 
PROF. M. KAPHANS 
 
 How to Draft a Skirt. 
 
 1. Front Gore — Draw square line 2-S, 3-13, 4-13%^, 5-18^/^, 
 6-36, 7-72, 8-81^; that is full length. Turn back to top — 
 1-2. 710, 14^, 2-9;^, 3-iS, 5-i<)>4:, ^)-2i^, 7-26>/, 8-27>^, 3-13, 
 4-13)4 are notches. 
 
 2. SUe Gore — 2-8^, 3-i83^, 4-36, 5-72, 6-81 -)<|— the same as 
 above. Turnback to top — T-7, 9, 10, 14, 29, 3-11, »9X» 4-^3> 
 20)4, 5-17, 23, 6-18, 24 (i 1 , 13, 17, 18, are to join the side drapery 
 to it). 
 
 3. Bnck part of Skirt — Draw square line 2-)/2, 3-1 » 4-J ^?> 5-2, 
 6-2K. 7-3>4. «-3)^»9-4;<(, '0-13, '1-mK. '2-8I>^^ 13-S3/2. 
 14-84^, 15-86. Turn back to top— 1'-33;^, 36;^:, 2-29, 3-21, 
 4-17^.5-8-X. ^'-^»^» 8-3)^(9-13, 10-13^ 13, 13^ join front gore 
 11-3514 line without bustle, 12-41)4 with bustle. This skirt is 
 made of-any kind of lining, face 72 to 81)^, with material you 
 desire making a dress. 
 
 4. Back Drapery — Draw square line 2-8, 3-13, 4-1334", 5-82; 
 that is full length. Turn back to top — 1-4)/^, 7|<;, io)'4, i3?/(, 1634;, 
 19^, 22^, 25)^, 28)^, 31%, 34^ and Tfiy,; that constitutes the 
 plaits from 4)^ to 10^. Make a box plait 3-13, 4-1334, join to 
 side plaits, 5-83 constitutes the back portion of back draj)ery. 
 
 5. Side Fiaits—2-}i, 3-1, 4-114, 5-2, 6-13, 7-13I4, 8-85 ; thdt 
 is the full length. Turn to top — 1-4^, 19^, -^SK' 4o^» S'- ^°y 
 62, 'joy'i — those to form in two plaits. Turn down to hvst lii>c in 
 bottom 9, II, 20 '4', 223/^, 3134, 40, 48%!, 51, 60, 62, 7Qj/, — those 
 also form two plaits. 
 
 6. Front Drapery, Lay of Square — Run down scale to Si)4 ; 
 turn back to top plaits 1-6,1534, 25J4 30)^, 3314, 35, 40, 5°. 52 ; 
 turn down to plaits 81)^, 5^, 9-)^, 15%, 19^, ^5)-^', 35^, 40, 50, 
 52. Figures 40, 50 and 52 do not belong to this skirt, but they 
 belong to the other full dress skirl. 
 
 Be/t — Lay of square to scale 56 ; cross by 6. 
 
KID GLOVE FITTING SYSTEM 
 
 Top plaits. Jo^ 
 
 Basque to fliJJ dress. 
 Use Suale by bust 
 measure. 
 
 Front drapery— form as for plaltB. 
 
KID GLOVE FITTING SYSTEM 
 
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KID GLOVE FITTING SYSTEM 
 
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 LiDing front gore. 
 
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PROF. M. KAPHANS 
 
 Cse any kind dark liuiug. Form In 
 plaits or gathers. Face from 72 to S6 
 witb material used for drapery. 
 
 Face from 72 to Sl%. 
 with the goods all 
 around the skirt. 
 
KID GLOVE FITTING SVSTExM 
 
PROF. M. KAPHANS 
 
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 Back and side pieces for full dress ; also skirt 
 forming in plaits. Use ecales by bust measure. 
 
KID GLOVE FITTING SVSTEM 
 
 Front of 
 Laciies' Wrap. 
 Use spale by 
 bust meas- 
 ure. 
 
 AJ "i'/i, 7^^ y 
 
 Side plaits join to back drapery aud side gore. This portion 
 forms iu two plaits. 
 
PROF. M. KAPHANS 
 
 i'/f^h i'AJf- 
 
 SiAe piece to back 
 
 Bacfe. 
 
 Bell sleeve 
 
KID GLOVE FITTING SVSTEM 
 
 Back tOsMisses' Basque. 
 
PROF. M. KAPHANS 
 
 Ladies' Basque, plain. Use bust measure. Raise or lower at n]4 
 to 32% in proportional length as you desire the same for misses' 
 disc and back dart. 
 
 ^"o^'^Ssealesforlap. 
 
KID GLOVE FITTING SYSTEM 
 
PROF. M.KAPHANS 
 
KID GLOVE FITTING SVSTEM 
 
 Latest Ladies' Combination Chemise and Drawers. Use scale for 
 Chemise by bust measure, and for Drawers use hip meaaure. 
 
PROF. M. KAPHANS 
 
 ^\^A Hz. 
 
 Ladies' Drawers— Use scale for hip ; measure and get your waist 
 by actual measurement ; same will apply to Misses. 
 
KID GLOVE FITTING SYSTEM 
 
 Ladies' Chemise-Take bust measure and use scale according to 
 length by actual measurement. The same for Misses. 
 
Agents Wanted. 
 
 I want agents, both ladies and gentlemen, to sell this most useful 
 system in the United States. You will not find an article that will 
 sell as easy as this. Every housekeeper who has -a sewing machine 
 needs this system to cut her own garments for patterns of the latest 
 basques, skirts, drapery, wraps, coats, children's garments and all 
 kinds of underwear. Every lady needs this system as much as she does 
 anything else about the house. Every fam.ily can afford to have one if 
 they have a machine. My experience is, that any one testing this 
 system will buy one, and I agree to teach all my agents the mode of 
 drafting free. It does not require much capital. Try it, as I will 
 not sell any counties to any agent, but give them the territory free. 
 
 My object is to sell this system, and the reason why an agent can 
 do well is, that it has the latest designs and no competition. The 
 profits are large, and if you sell only two a day it will give you a 
 large profit, and by introducing this system to the public it will aid 
 you in making more sales than you have any idea of. If you want 
 the local agency I will give it to you wherever you want it. Re- 
 member, I do not ask you to take the agency until you are satisfied 
 that you can sell the system and be fully instructed in it so that you may 
 fully know what this system can do. I want you to come and see me. 
 I am bound to make it a household article. I Avill only be here a 
 short time, and will give some lady or gentleman a chance to have 
 the same thoroughly introduced. I am. 
 Very repectfuUy, 
 
 M. k:af»han. 
 
 Address all communications to M. KAPHAN. 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 013 973 009 4