A Companion to " The Lady's New Receipt-Book." 
 
 t\\ 
 
 -W!^ 
 
 MISS LESLIE'S 
 
 LADY'S HOUSE-BOOK; 
 
 A MANUAL OP 
 
 DOMESTIC ECONOMY, 
 
 CONTAINING APPROVED DIRECTIONS FOR 
 
 WASHING, 
 
 URESS-MAKING, 
 
 MILLINERY, 
 
 DYEING, 
 
 CLEANING, 
 
 QUILTING, 
 
 TABLE-LINEN, 
 WINDOW- WASHING, 
 AYOOD-FIRES, 
 STRAW BONNETS, 
 SILK STOCKINGS, 
 RAG CARPETS, 
 
 PLATED-WARE, 
 PORCELAIN, 
 HOUSE-CLEANING, 
 LAUNDRY- WORK, 
 COAL-GRATE FIRES, 
 EVENING PAKTxES, Ac 
 
 NINETEENTH EDITION, ENLARGED. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS ADDITIONAL EECEIPT8 FOB 
 
 REMOVING STAINS EROM SILKS, WOOLLENS, COTTONS JTCl, 
 
 •] Kj^ff,'^^^'^ ^ €ije^ 
 
 BEING A COMPANION TO , 
 
 "MISS LESLIE'S LADY'S NEW RECEIPT-BOOK." 
 PHILADELPHIA : 
 
 HENRY CAREY BAIRD, 
 
 INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHER, 
 
 No. 406 WALNUT STREET. 
 
 1863. 
 
xv!^ 
 
 
 y^%i^ 
 
 Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1840, by 
 
 E. L. Caeey & A. Hart, 
 
 in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Eastern District of 
 Pennsylvania. 
 
 Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1850, by 
 
 A. IIakt, 
 
 in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Eastern District ol 
 Pennsylvania. 
 
 COLLINS, PRINTER. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The design of the following work is to impart to novices in 
 bouse-keej)ing some information on a subject which is, or ought 
 <o be, important to every American female, so that they may 
 be enabled, to instruct unpractised domestics, or, in case of 
 jmergency, to assist personally in forwarding the indispensable 
 work of the family. More than nine-tenths of these receipts 
 are entirely original ; all are expressly adapted to the meridian 
 of our own country ; and though they generally refer to the 
 condition of families in what is termed genteel life, a large 
 number of them may be found useful in houses where close 
 economy is expedient. 
 
 It has Sfeen the design of the author to make her directions 
 as plain and intelligible as possible, and therefore she has 
 thought it best to explain every particular with unusual minute- 
 ness, as if addressed to persons who were totally ignorant of 
 the subjects in question. In this, as in her Cookery Book, she 
 has not scrupled, when necessary, to sacrifice the sound to the 
 sense ; repeating the same words when no others could be found 
 to express the purport so clearly; and being always more 
 anxious to convey the meaning in such terms as could not be 
 mistaken, than to risk obscuring it by attempts at refined 
 phraseology or well-rounded periods. 
 
 Complaints are incessantly heard of the deterioration of ser- 
 vants; but may not one source of this growing evil be traced 
 to the deterioration of mistresses in the knowledge and practice 
 of all that is necessary to a well-ordered household. A great 
 change has certainly taken place since the days when, during 
 the ptesidency of her husband, Mrs. Washington, followed by 
 a servant-man with a basket, went daily to Philadelphia mar- 
 ket ; and when the all -accomplished daughters of Mr. .Tefferson 
 made pastry and confectionary in a room fitted up for that pur- 
 pose in their father's mansion at Monticello. 
 
 3 
 
4 PREFACE. 
 
 While we regret the present system of education, in which 
 all things are taug-ht (or rather attempted) except that whicii 
 io every American female must at some period of her life be 
 absolutely necessary, we would not have our young married 
 ladies discouraged if, on first assuming the charge of a house, 
 they find themselves subjected to much perplexity and incon- 
 venience from ignorance of their new task. A competent 
 knowledge of household affairs is by no means difiicult to 
 acquire, and is within the reach of every woman of tolerable 
 capacity, who has a proper conviction of its utility, and an 
 earnest desire to profit b}'' all opportunities of improvement in 
 its pursuit. It is a homely but a true saying, that " where 
 there is a will there is a way." 
 
 . A neat and well-conducted house, with fires and ligrhts 
 always as they should be; and a table where the food is invit- 
 ing, from being good both in material and cooking; also clothes 
 well washed and ironed, are comforts that are not lightly prized 
 by any married man; and it is but just that he wlfl perhaps 
 labours hard in his business or profession to procure the means 
 of obtaining them, should not be disappointed in their applica- 
 tion; particularly when the deficiencies are caused by the 
 inertness or the mismanagement of the woman who should 
 consider it her especial care to render his home agreeable to him. 
 Should this book have any effect in directing the attention 
 of her young countrywomen to a subject of far more importance 
 to their married happiness than the cultivation of showy accom- 
 plishments, or the unavailing pursuit of studies that to females 
 are always abstruse ; should it, on trial, be found a useful aux- 
 iliary to practised house-keepers, in furnishing them with addi- 
 tional hints, or new and easy modes of doing things that have 
 always been done, its object will be accomplished ; leaving 
 the author with the gratification of knowing that she has not 
 written in vain. 
 Philadelphia, February \9th, 1840. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Launduy Work : — Waibhing, Ironing, Clear-starching, Doing 
 
 ' up Lace, «Scc • • • • ^ 
 
 Removing Stains and Ghease : — Taking out Ink, Lamp-oil, 
 
 Paint, Acids, &c "^^ 
 
 Domestic Dyes • ^■^ 
 
 CouNTRT Manner of Dyeing Yarn 101 
 
 Tnsects, Rats, Mice, *&c 105 
 
 Fuel, Fires. &c.: — Management of wood and coal Fires in 
 
 Grates and Stoves 121 
 
 I /iGiiTS : — Management of Lamps, Tapers, Candle-making, &c. 155 
 
 Furniture : — Cleaning Carpets, Curtains, Mahogany, Silvea, 
 
 Glass, Knives and Forks, Brass, Sec 171 
 
 The Kitchen : — Its Furniture and Utensils 227 
 
 The Dining-room: — Table Furniture, Waiting on Table, 
 
 Carving, &c • 250 
 
 Bed-chambers: — Bed-room Furniture, Keeping it clean, «Si:c. 296 
 
 House-cleaning :— White-washing, Cleaning Paint, Scrub- 
 bing, Preparing Rooms for Summer, Packing Furni- 
 ture, &c 3^^ 
 
 Miscellaneous Articles:— Keeping a Cow, Poultry, Bees, 
 
 Making Inks, Making Colours, &;c 355 
 
 Sewing Work:— Making up Linen, Hints on Dress-making. 332 
 
 1* 5 • 
 
THE 
 
 HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 THE LAUNDRY. 
 
 No large house should be without a laundry, or place ap- 
 propriated to the work connected with washing and ironing. 
 A back kitchen may easily be fitted up for this purpose. It 
 should have a large fire-place for the convenience of boiling 
 several kettles of water at a time, if necessary, and for heating 
 the irons. A pump or hydrant should either be within the 
 laundry or close to the door : also a sink for disposing of the 
 dirty water. All the water used for washing must be soft, 
 otherwise the clothes cannot be made clean. Soap, instead of 
 d.ssolving and forming a suds, will always curdle and float on 
 the surface of water that is either hard from being impreg- 
 nated with lime or other mineral substances, or brackish from 
 Its vicinity to the sea. The best way of softening hard water, 
 when no other can be obtained, is to mix with it a large quan- 
 tity of strong lye, (in the proportion of one gallon of lye to 
 three or four of water,) or to stir into it a little potash, which 
 last must be sparingly used, or it will injure the clothes by 
 making them so tender that they will soon go to pieces. 
 
 Jn places where all the pump or well-water is hard, and the 
 
8 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 running water saltish, it is usual to save rain-water for wash- 
 ing purposes, by catching it in cisterns, casks, or tubs, placed 
 under the water-spouts. Rain-water casks should always 
 have covers to prevent impurities from getting into the water. 
 They should stand on feet, and be furnished with a spigot for 
 drawing the water when wanted. Unless you have abundance 
 of water, it is impossible to wash the clothes clean, or to 
 make them of a good colour ; and where a sufficiency can be 
 obtained, no good washer will be sparing in the use of it. 
 Washing in dirty suds is of very little avail. 
 
 In America most families have their washing done once a 
 week. This is much better, in some respects, than the Euro- 
 pean custom of monthly or quarterly washes, as the clothes 
 derive great injury from lying in their dirt; and also a quantity 
 of clothing, often inconveniently large, is requisite when the 
 intervals between the washes are so very long. 
 
 May we be allowed to suggest that Tuesday (though con- 
 trary to the usual custom), is a more convenient day for wash- 
 ing than Monday ; as some previous preparation is always ne- 
 cessary the afternoon or evening before; such, for instance, 
 as looking out and assorting the clothes, putting some of them 
 in soak, ripping certain things apart, and replacing buttons, 
 hooks, and strings that have been broken off; not to mention 
 the probability that some articles, which were put on quite 
 clean on Sunday, might very well be worn one day more; 
 though it would not be considered worth while to keep them 
 out of the wash till next week. When it is done weekly, it 
 is rarely necessary to devote more than one day to washing, 
 and another to ironing ; and we opine that, in general, it is bet 
 ter those two days should be Tuesday and Wednesday, rather 
 tnan Monday and Tuesday. W^lien it can be deferred, wash- 
 ing should never be done on a rainy day, for many reasons 
 
THE LAUNDRY. 9 
 
 For instance, it is not well to have the clothes lying all nicrhl 
 in the tuhs, neither will starch take effect in damp weather. 
 At all events, the coloured things and the muslins should be 
 left till it clears up. If the family is large, it is best not to 
 have the small muslins, laces, &c., done with the general 
 wash. Blankets, chintz curtains, and other large extra thino-g 
 should always be washed at extra times, and at a season when 
 the days are long and bright. Where there are many muslins 
 and laces, it is frequently more convenient to devote a morn- 
 ing expressly to the purpose of doing them up, than to put 
 them in the general wash. 
 
 It is a great convenience to have in the laundry a large deep 
 closet for holding the utensils necessary for the process of 
 washing. For instance, the kettles, tubs, buckets, clothes- 
 baskets, starch-pans, lines, pegs, washing-boards ; and also the 
 ironing apparatus. 
 
 Each of the women engaged in washing should be provided 
 with one of the well-known grooved or fluted boards, which, 
 by standing them up in the tub of suds and rubbing the clothes 
 upon them, will greatly save the hands and expedite the work. 
 They cost but a trifle, and can be procured wherever wooden 
 ware is sold. 
 
 The best and most durable clothes-lines are those of horse- 
 hair, or of twisted sea-grass. Let them always be wiped 
 before they are put .up, and taken down as soon as all" the 
 clothes are brought in. There should be a sufficient number 
 of cleft wooden p3gs to secure the clothes on the lines. 
 
 There should be tall posts along the yard, at a convenient 
 distance from the fence or wall, for the purpose of fastening 
 the lines, which may also be propped in the middle by long 
 forked sticks, the largest end resting on the ground. 
 
 The laundry should be furnished with broad stout benche* 
 
10 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 of a convenient height, to .hold the tubs when the women aie 
 standing at them. 
 
 It is well to have a lye-barrel at hand, that lye (which is 
 good for so many purposes) may be ready at any time. Also 
 a barrel of soft soap, and a tin or iron ladle for dipping it out. 
 The large wooden folding frames called clothes-horses are 
 mdispensable in a laundry ; either for the purpose of drying 
 wet clothes by the fire when necessary, or for spreading out 
 the clothes after ironing, to free them from all remaining damp- 
 ness. These clothes-horses should have broad substantial 
 feet, so that they may not be easily overset. 
 
 In summer the perfect drying of the ironed white clothes 
 may be completed by hanging them out in the sun. 
 
 There should be large tubs for soaking the uncolou:ed 
 clothes over night. In soaking coarse heavy clothes, mix two 
 quarts of lye in the water of a large tub. 
 
 You should have a long round hickory stick, somewhat flat- 
 tened at one end, to stir the clothes while boiling — and a long 
 stout hickory fork, with which to lift them out of the hot water 
 without scalding your hands. 
 
 Either the oval tin cups that hook on to the edge of the tub, 
 or small wooden or earthen bowls, should be provided for each 
 of the washers to put their soap in ; it will waste greatly if 
 they keep it all the time in the tub, and if they lay it beside 
 them on the sloppy bench it will be continually slipping 
 iown. 
 
 The indigo bag for blueing the rinsing water should be 
 made of new white flannel. The usual form is square, sewed 
 all round at the edges, leaving a small opening at the top tc 
 put in the indigo; which opening must always be sewed up 
 after replenishing the bag with a fresh supply. When yov 
 use it, hold the bag in the water, pressing it with your fingers 
 
THE LAUNDRY. II 
 
 U^l you have squeezed out sufficient blue to give a very light 
 Unge. Then paddle your hand through the water to diffuse 
 the colour equally. 
 
 Have large strong bags to put the dirty clothes in as 
 you take them off. The bags should be of substantial brown 
 linen, or else of ticking, with a string of strong tape sewed 
 to the side-seam a little below the hem at the top. If the 
 clothes are left lying loose in the bottom of a closet (as is 
 the custom in many houses,) they may be injured by the nib 
 bling of mice or of. cockroaches. Let there be a separate 
 bag for the small muslins, &c. 
 
 In the laundry closet should be kept all the articles neces- 
 sary for washing and ironing. Among them, a black bottle 
 containincr ox-srall, which will be found most useful for co- 
 loured things, as it will greatly add to the clearness of their 
 colours. A gall can be procured from the butcher for a trifle, 
 (generally six cents,) and no house should be without it. It 
 should be poured through a funnel into the bottle, and kept 
 closely corked. During the process of drying, the air will 
 entirely dispel the odour of the gall : but, if you choose, you 
 may scent it in the bottle by adding a little tincture of musk. 
 
 A large brass or copper kettle is an indispensable article for a 
 laundry ; as an iron pot will stain the clothes. Where there is a 
 great deal of washing, two kettles will be found very convenient. 
 For a laundry, a large fire-place is better than a stove, as the 
 latter will make the room intolerably hot in the summer. In 
 English wash-houses there is always a great copper kettle set 
 in brick and mortar, with a place for fire underneath. This is 
 a good contrivance, and saves the trouble of lifting the large 
 kettle on and off: and of course precludes any danger of its 
 oversetting. We are glad tD find that this apparatus is coming 
 •nto use in America. 
 
12 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 Ironing tables should at least be large enough for two persons 
 to iron on at a time, and should stand facing the light, that the 
 women may see perfectly what they are about. There is a 
 very convenient ironing-board, which, when not in use, turns 
 up, and forms a high back to a bench or settle : which bench 
 should have a draw^er beneath it large enough to contain the 
 blanket, sheet, holders, &c. 
 
 The best iron-stands are those with feet and handles. If a 
 mere ring, they are likely to scorch the blanket, and to* burn 
 the fingers in removing them. 
 
 Holders should be made of square folds of clean old flannel, 
 covered with calico and sewed at the edges. They should on 
 no account be stuflfed or interlined with wadding or cotton, as 
 these substances, being very inflammable, will cause the holders 
 to blaze up in a moment, if a spark should touch them in taking 
 the iron f^om the fire. 
 
 Old soft towels, or pieces of old sheets or table-cloths, make 
 excellent iron-wdpers. They should be kept entirely free from 
 grease or wet, and never used for any purpose but the proper 
 one. 
 
 The ironing blanket should be large, smooth, and thick, as 
 well as the sheet that is to be spread over it when used. There 
 must not, in either, be any holes pr patches, as those defects 
 will cause the surface to be uneven, and prevent the clothes 
 from ironing smoothly. 
 
 Bits of bees-wax should be kept at hand to rub (for an instant) 
 over the irons as they are taken from the fire, to remove any 
 smoke or roughness that may adhere to them. 
 
 It is well to have a strong bag always hanging in the laundry 
 to contain the bees-wax, indigo bag, bits of spermaceti, an 
 other little things belonging to washing and ironing. 
 
 There should be regular w^hite cotton cloth kept exclusively 
 
LAUNDRY WORK. 13 
 
 cl& purpose of straining starch : always wastiing it out and 
 rying it before it is put away. 
 
 A mangling machine, for the purpose of smoothing table and 
 bed linen and various other things, will be found well worth its 
 cost, in saving the time and trouble of ironing these articles, 
 and in the superiority which it gives to their appearance. 
 
 Skirt-boards are very convenient for ironing the skirts of 
 dresses. Also bosom-boards for shirts. 
 
 When the washing is over for the day, the tubs, buckets, &c., 
 should be make clean and turned up to dry ; all the articles 
 used should be put away in their proper places, and the floor 
 wiped up with a mop or cloth. 
 
 Tubs, buckets, barrels, churns, and other utensils of cooper- 
 work, should never be left out of doors when empty : as the 
 sun and air will contract the wood and open the. seams, causing 
 the vessel to leak. 
 
 All these things will last much longer if painted on the out- 
 side. 
 
 In Philadelphia it is very customary for families, as well as 
 single persons, to put out their washing. There are many 
 excellent washerwomen who take it by the month or quarter, at 
 a very reasonable price ; and if the washing only is put out, 
 and the clothes brought rough-dried to be ironed at home, the 
 expense will be found scarcely, if at all, to exceed that of hav- 
 ing it done in your own house ; and you are relieved from the 
 trouble and inconvenience of a washing-day. 
 
 TO MAKE LYE. — For this purpose hickory ashes is trie 
 best : but good oak ashes will do very well. Ashes of anthra- 
 cite coal cannot be used for lye. 
 
 For very fine lye of moderate strength, the ashes must oe 
 
 sifted or riddled through a strong wire sieve, to free it from bi is 
 
 2 
 
14 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 of cinder. To two quarts of hickory ashes, or three quarts of 
 oak, allow a gallon of soft water. Boil the water by itself; 
 and then, when scalding hot, pour it on the ashes ; let it stand 
 till quite cold. Afterwards, strain the lye through a clean 
 coarse cloth into another vessel. It should be quite clear. 
 
 Another way of making lye is to put into a kettle two quarts 
 of hickory or three quarts of oak ashes. Pour on four quarts 
 of cold soft water ; boil it ; and when it comes to a hard boil, 
 take it off the iire, and put it aside to settle. Then pour it from 
 the dregs or sediment through a clean coarse cloth, and 
 strain it. 
 
 In boiling white clothes, put a large tea-cupful of clear lye 
 into the wash-kettle. This is the proper proportion to two 
 buckets of water. 
 
 In washing black worsted clothes, such as bombazines, 
 bombazets, black merinos, &c., put a tea-cupful of lye into the 
 first water. It will make the black colour look bright and fresh. 
 
 Lye will set the colour of new nankeen. Before it is made 
 up, the nankeen should be soaked all night in a tub of clear 
 lye, moderately strong. If the nankeen is of real Chinese 
 manufacture, and not the imitation that is made in Europe, soak- 
 ing it in lye before it is cut out, will prevent it from fading ever 
 after. 
 
 TO KEEP SOAP-FAT FROM MOULDING— When 
 
 you have collected a targe quantity of kitchen fat, you may 
 prevent it from spoiling in the crocks, and have it ready at any 
 tim^Jbr soap, by making a weak lye on purpose, and boiling 
 the fat in it till it is thoroughly melted. The fat will rise to 
 the top of the 'kettle. Set it away in the kettle to cool. When 
 quite cold, you may take it off in a round cake. Wrap the 
 cake closely in clean brown paper, (so as entirely to eydude 
 
LAUNDRY WORK. 15 "" 
 
 ihe air,) and keep it in a dry place. This is an excellent way 
 of preserving the fat through the summer, to be made into soap 
 in the autumn. 
 
 ANOTHER WAY. — Some good housewives who keep a 
 perpetual lye-barrel, keep also a covered tub half-filled with 
 lye, into which they throw, every day, whatever kitchen fat is 
 proper for soap making. This will effectually preserve it from 
 moulding, till you wish to use it for soap. An old meat-tub 
 will answer very well for this purpose. It must be kept covered. 
 
 TO MAKE SOFT SOAP.— Soft soap is a most useful 
 article in washing heavy clothes, and in scrubbing floors. 
 When using it, keep it beside you in a tin pan. It can easily 
 be made in any house where wood is burned, though in cities 
 it is the usual custom to exchange fat and ashes for hard soap. 
 You should keep in the cellar large earthen crocks as recep- 
 tacles for all the grease and fat that comes from the kitchen, 
 such as bits of the fat of meat, bacon skins, drippings, &c. 
 The fat of beef and pork makes the best soap. The crocks 
 should have tin or wooden covers. There should be a separate 
 place in the cellar for the wood ashes, and great care is neces- 
 •ary in putting it away, to see that there are no bits of hot coal 
 \mong it; as houses have taken fire from a neglect of this 
 precaution. For making soap, the ashes should be as fresli 
 and new as possible ; and of good oak, with a small mixture 
 of hickory : for instance, one-fourth. It can be made, however, 
 though not quite so good, with oak ashes only. 
 
 You must have an ash-tub or barrel, which should be tall 
 and high : but is best of a funnel shape, narrowing c'owr. 
 towards the bottom; and in the bottom should be a hole not 
 larger in diameter than a half dollar. The ash-tub should stand 
 
IG THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 on wooden skids or legs, high enough to admit a large commow 
 tub underneath. Lay several bricks inside the bottom round 
 ihe hole. The bricks are for the purpose of keeping up the 
 ashes. Then cover both bricks and hole with a layer of straw, 
 through which the lye is to filter. Then fill the barrel with 
 five or six bushels of ashes packed down hard, (but not quite 
 full to the top,) and set a large clean tub underneath. Pour in 
 sufficient boiling water (about two or three buckets full) to 
 moisten the ashes throughout ; as beginning with hot water is 
 a very quickening process in making the lye. It will be a great 
 improvement to mix with the boiling water about two gallons 
 of slacked lime, or one of unslacked. Then pour in a gallon 
 or more of cold water, about once an hour for a whole day. 
 
 Next day try the lye that has dripped into the tub beneath. 
 The first will be very strong, but it will gradually become 
 weaker. The proper strength for beginning the soap is when an 
 egg placed in the lye-tub will continue at the top with only about 
 the size of a ten cent piece appearing above the surface of the 
 lye. If nearly the whole egg, or indeed the half of it keeps 
 above, the lye is too strong. If the egg sinks entirely below 
 the surface, the lye is quite too weak. If you find it impos- 
 sible otherwise to get the lye of sufficient strength, you must 
 empty out all the ashes, fill the barrel afresh, and go through 
 the whole process again, as weak lye will never make soap. 
 
 When you find that the lye is of the proper quality, take 
 away the tub, and place another one under the barrel to catch 
 the weaker drippings, which you must keep to fill up the soap- 
 pot when necessary. 
 
 To begin the soap ; — allow about three pounds of fat to a 
 bucket of lye. Put the fat by itself into a very large kettle 
 over a hot fire, and melt it; stirring it well with a round ►tick 
 flattened at one end. When the fat has all moL'ed, ponr u ^he 
 
LAUNDRY WORK. 17 
 
 Strong lye by degi-ees; stirring it well, (and always one way,) 
 till the fat and the lye are thoroughly incorporated. Then 
 moderate the fire, and boil it slowly and steadily all day, till 
 it becomes thick and ropy, stirring it occasionally. A piece 
 of lime thrown in while boiling, will improve it. If it boils 
 too hard, it will go over. If not boiled enough, the soap will 
 turn again to lye. If, in boiling, the fat disappears entirely 
 from the top, fidd more fat, as there should be some indication 
 of it on the surface. If there should happen to be too much 
 fat, it can be skimmed off when the soap is cold. As it boils, 
 continue to fill it up with lye till the soap becomes of a proper 
 consistence. If the lye is too strong, it will not unite with it. 
 Try the soap by occasionally taking out some in a dish or 
 ladle, and setting it in the open air. It should be of a bright 
 brown colour, and clear, and thick as a jelly when cold. 
 
 When done, pour it off into tubs or buckets, and carry it 
 into the cellar to cool. When cold, empty it into a barrel : 
 keep it in a dry place, and stir it frequently with a long stick 
 during the first three or four days. It will then be fit for use. 
 You should make your soap in the spring or autumn. If good 
 it will keep more than a year. 
 
 If you intend to make two kettles full of soap, divide the 
 strong lye and reserve one half for the second kettle. 
 
 COMMON HARD SOAP.— Having made from hickory 
 ashes, or the best oak, a sufficient quantity of lye, which must 
 be strong enough to bear up an egg, allow to each gallon three- 
 quarters of a pound of clean kitchen fat of the best kind, (that 
 has been clarified by melting it with water,) and a bit of lime 
 the size of a large hickory nut. .Put it into a large kettle, boil 
 it very fast, and stir it frequently. It must boil hard for several 
 hours. Try it by taking out a little and cooling it on a plate. 
 
 2* 
 
18 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 When you find that it becomes a thick jelly, and no grease 
 appears about it, stir fine salt into the kettle, allowing a pint 
 of salt to three gallons of the soap. Let it boil for ten minutes 
 after the salt is in. Then take it out of the kettle and put the 
 soap in tubs to cool, and wash the kettle clean. Next day cut 
 the soap out of the tubs, and melt it again, and cool it iii wooden 
 moulds, if you have them. When it is firm, cut it into square 
 pieces, of convenient size for washing, and place it on shelves 
 to harden, not allowing the pieces to touch each other. 
 
 The best kitchen fat for soap is that of beef and pork or 
 bacon. Should any pork or bacon skins be among it, you must 
 allow a pound of fat to each gallon of lye. 
 
 If, in trying it in the plate, before putting in the salt, you find 
 the soap too liquid, add a little water to that on the plate, for 
 the purpose of making it jelly. You will then be able to 
 ascertain how much cold water must be added to that in the 
 kettle for the same purpose ; it being evident that the lye is toe 
 strong. This must be. done before the salt is put in. 
 
 A larger quantity of lime, put in while boiling, will make 
 the soap still harder. 
 
 You may harden it also, by adding, while the soap is boil- 
 ing, a little sulphate of iron. This will give it a marbled oi 
 mottled appearance. 
 
 FINE HARD SOAP.— Take fifteen pounds of the best 
 lard, or of clean fresh suet. Put it into a large kettle, hang it 
 over a moderate fire, and make it boil. Have ready a quantity 
 of excellent clear lye, five gallons of which must be strong 
 enough to bear up an egg. Add with a ladle, a very little at a 
 time of this lye to the fat in the kettle, and put it in slowly 
 for a while at first ; otherwise, it will instantly cause the fat to 
 rise up so high as to overflow, and perhaps endanger. the person 
 
LAUNDIIV WORK. 19 
 
 that is making the soap. When this tendei^cy to effervesce 
 seems to diminish, the lye may he poured in by larger quanti- 
 ties. Keep the kettle boiling thus (and well skimmed) till all 
 the five gallons of strong lye have been put in. Then add 
 another gallon of lye, weakened by an equal quantity of water. 
 The whole will then have the appearance of liquid soap. Then 
 try a small quantity by putting it into cold water, and if no 
 particles of grease appear on the top, it will be in a fit state tc 
 receive the salt which is to harden it. If you see any grease, 
 add some more lye, and give it another boil up. "When you 
 find it in proper order, stir in gradually three quarts of fine salt. 
 Then try the soap by taking out a small portion, and setting it 
 to cool. If it does not seem sufficiently stiff, or likely to harde-a 
 well, add another quart of salt, and give it another boil up. 
 
 The soap will now be all towards the top of the kettle, and 
 the lye beneath it at the bottom. Skim dff the soap, taking 
 care not to stir it so as to mix in the lye through it. Put it 
 into square pans or moulds, and set it away to harden thoroughly. 
 The l)''e that remains at the bottom of the kettle should be 
 saved for washingr coarse clothes. 
 
 When your soap has become quite hard, take it out of the 
 moulds or pans and lay it on boards to dry thoroughly. The 
 above quantity of ingredients will, if properly paanaged, 
 produce thirty-five pounds of firm, close, fine soap. 
 
 If your lard or suet is not of the very best quality, take it oft 
 after it is all melted, strain it, and return it to the kettle, before 
 you begin to put in the lye. 
 
 To perfume it, take a portion and melt it over again, first 
 Cvitting it into small pieces. Then, while liquid, beat it in a 
 KLDrtar with tincture of music, oil of bergamot, oil of almonds, 
 p5.\lm oil, or any -other essential oil that has a fine scent, and is 
 nc*"- so pungent as to irritate ^3 sJdn. Then, when 'A is 
 
20 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 thoroughly imbued with the perfume, put it into small square 
 till moulds, and set it in a cold place to harden. 
 
 STARCH OF HOME MANUFACTURE.— Take a peck 
 
 of ungTound wheat of the best quality ; pick and wash it care- 
 f'lUy. Next put it- into a tub ; pour on sufficient clear soft 
 water to cover it, and then set it in the sun. Be sure to 
 change the water every day : keeping it in the sun as much as 
 possible, or in an equally warm place in the house, should the 
 weather prove unfavourable. When all the grains of wheat 
 have become quite soft, rub it well in your hands, and separate 
 it from the husks, which must be thrown into another tub. 
 Let the soft wheat settle into a mass ; and then pour off the 
 water, and put on fresh. Stir it well, and let it settfe again. 
 Repeat this every day, till the last \yater comes off clear and 
 colourless. Then pour the water finally off. Take the starch 
 out of the tub, collect it into a thin bag, and hang it for a few 
 days in the sun; after which, spread it on dishes to dry. 
 
 TO PREPARE COMMON STARCH.— Put a sufficient 
 quantity of dry starch (for instance from two to three table- 
 spoonfuls) into a bowl, and mix it gradually with just enough 
 of clear cold water to malte it a thin paste, pressing out all 
 the lumps with the back of the spoon till you get it perfectly 
 smooth. Then pour it into a clean pipkin or skillet. Have 
 ready a kettle of boiling water, and by degrees add some of it 
 to the starch, stirring it well. You may allow from a pint to 
 a quart of the hot water, according as you wish to have the 
 starch thick, thin, or moderate. Set it on hot coals, and boil 
 it well for half an hour. If not well boiled, it will not be 
 glutinous. When it has boiled Ji'bout fifteen minutes, stir it v 
 lew tfjnc5S (merely for a momesit ach) with the end of a spei 
 
LAUNDRY WORK. VI 
 
 mace i candle. This will prevent its being sticKy; but take 
 care rot to stir it too much. If you have no spermaceti,. sprin- 
 kle in o little salt, (about a tea-spoonful to a pint of search, 
 which ^'ill answer a similar purpose, or throw in a lump o. 
 loaf surar. Finish by stirring it hard with a spoon. 
 
 Strair. the starch through a white cloth into a large pan, anf' 
 squeeze into it a very little blue from the indigo bag; but i 
 must be I lU a very little. 
 
 For con.-mon coloured dresses you may make the starch with 
 fine flour n> 'ced as above. 
 
 GUM AROIC STARCH.— GeUwo ounces of fine white 
 gum arable, and pound it to powder. Next put it into a 
 pitcher, and pour on it a pint or more of boiling water, (ac- 
 cording to the degree of strength you desire,) and then, hav- 
 mg covered it, Itt it set all night. In the morning, pour it 
 carefully from th \ i^regs into a clean bottle, cork it, and keep 
 it for use. 
 
 A table-spoonfui' of gum water stirred into a pint of starch 
 that has been made in the usual manner, will give to lawns 
 (either white or painted) a look of newness to which nothing 
 else can restore them a/te?* washing. 
 
 It is also good (mud cUuted) for thin white muslin and 
 bobbinet. 
 
 COFFEE STARCH.- -This is excellent for mourning 
 chintzes, or for any thing tha^ is very dark ; the common 
 starch giving a whitish, ashy, c \ dusty appearance to these ar- 
 ticles. Make, in the usual manner, a tea-cupful of strong 
 ?offee; mix it with an equal quantity of cold water, and hen 
 •loil it. In the mean time, mix tvo tcble-sp.onfuJs c l.\e 
 finest dry starch with enough of cold water to make it a 
 
22 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 smooth paste. There must both together be a pint, when 
 the starch paste is added to the diluted coffee. When the cof- 
 fee is boiling hard, put in the starch gradually, and stir it well. 
 After it is all in, let it boil well for ten or fifteen minutes, and 
 give it a stir with a spermaceti candle. Put it into an earthen 
 pan, and when cool run the dress through it, squeezing it well. 
 
 GLUE STIFFENING.— This is used for dark chintzes or 
 calicoes. Take a piece of glue about the size of the palm ot 
 your hand ; break it up, and put it into a vessel, with from 
 three quarts to a gallon of soft water. Set it on the fire, and 
 let it boil till the glue is entirely dissolved. Then take it off, 
 pour it into a large pan, and when it is of a lukewarm heat 
 (not cooler) it is fit for use. Put the dress into it, and work 
 it about till it has thoroughly taken the glue water. Then 
 squeeze it well, open it out, and dry it as fast as possible. 
 Afterwards, sprinkle, roll it up, and iron it. 
 
 WASHING WHITE CLOTHES.— The white clothes 
 are always to be washed first. They will wash the easier if 
 put to soak the preceding night in large tubs with a mixture 
 of lye and milk-warm water; allowing a pint of lye to three 
 Duckets of water. Stockings particularly should always be 
 put in soak. Early in the morning, heat a suflSciency of water 
 for what is called firsting and seconding the clothes. When 
 put into the tubs, dilute with enough of cold water to make it 
 just warm enough to bear your hand in — if Too hot it will 
 rather set the dirt into the clothes than take it out. For linen, 
 muslin, &c., do not make a lather with the soap before you 
 put in the clothes, but rub the soap on the article as you pro- 
 ceed ; taking the most pains with the dirtiest places. Have 
 ready beside you a second tub with warm water, and throw 
 
WASHING. 2'd 
 
 into it the thing's, one by one, as you wash them out of the 
 first. Or when two women are washing together, let one 
 take the first water, and the other the second. 
 
 There should be on the fire a large brass or copper kettle 
 filled with water for boiling the clothes, and they will look 
 whiter and better if you mix with the water in the kettle a 
 tea-cup full of strong clear lye. After washing them well 
 through the first and second warm waters, put the bed-linen, 
 table-linen, and white towels into the kettle, and take them out 
 as soon as they come to a hard boil ; or boil them slowly half 
 an hour — a longer boiling will injure them. Stir them fre- 
 quently with the long round hickory stick kept for the pur- 
 pose. The shirts, chemises, night-gowns, handkerchiefs and 
 other muslins must not be boiled, but scalded by putting them 
 into a clean tub and pouring hot water upon them ; for instance, 
 from a larger k«ttle with a spout. No coloured clothes should 
 ever be boiled or scalded, as it will destroy the colour; neither 
 should white things with coloured borders. 
 
 In boiling clothes, see that there is all the time plenty of 
 water in the kettle. If the water gets too low, the clothes 
 will scorch or burn. 
 
 When llie things have boiled properly, take them out, 
 put them into a tub of cold water, and wash them through it 
 without soap — and then throw them into another tub of cold 
 water and rinse them well. Lastly, rinse them in a tub of 
 cold water tinged with a little blue by squeezing into it the 
 indigo bag. The things that have been scalded must also be 
 put through three cold waters, the last one slightly blued. 
 
 [n taking them out of every water the clothes should be 
 wrung hard. After rinsing in the blue water, hang them on 
 the lines to dry in the sun, securing them with the clothes pegs. 
 
 Let them all be brought in at the close of the afternoon, if 
 
24 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 not before ; as after sunset they will dry no moro. A nil not 
 dry, spread them out on the wooden clothes-horses, -jr hang 
 them on lines in a garret, back kitchen, or in any convenient 
 room, if you have not a laundry. 
 
 WASHING WITH SODA— This method can only be 
 pursued with white clothes, (that is, linen and cotton :) it is 
 injurious to woollen, and to coloured articles of every de- 
 scription. If done with great care, it answers very well for 
 bed-linen, table-linen, &c., making them white and clean 
 without the labour of rubbing, except in a few places that may 
 be particularly soiled. The things to be washed must all 
 be laid in soak the night before, in cold soft water. Early in 
 the morning, put into the wash-kettle, a mixture in the pro- 
 portion of six gallons of soft water, a pound of hard soap cut 
 into small pieces, (or a pint and a half of soft soap,) and two 
 ourYces of sub-carbonate of soda, which can be obtained at the 
 druggist's for a trifle. Hang the kettle over the fire, and make 
 it boil. In the mean time, lift the clothes out of the soaking 
 tubs with the clothes-stick, and rub a little soap on those parts 
 that are unusually dirty. When the mixture in the kettle is 
 at boiling heat, put them in, and boil them ?ta^ an hour ,• (not 
 more.) Then take them out with the clothes-stick and drain 
 them, by laying them across an old clothes-basket turned 
 bottom upwards in a large tub. See that they are thoroughly 
 drained ; then rinse and wring them through a tub of warm 
 water ; and, lastly, through a tub of cold water tinged with 
 blue from the indigo bag. W^ring them well, and hang them 
 out to dry. 
 
 Care must be taken not to have more than the proper pro- 
 portion of soda, (two ounces to five gallons of water,) and that 
 it is the precise article required — sub-carbonate of soda. In 
 
WASHING. 25 
 
 sending for it to the druggjst's, it is well always to write its 
 exact name en a slip of paper. Also, the clothes must not 
 boil too long, and they must be thoroughly drained and rinsed. 
 Some washerwomen and servants are in the habit of putting 
 in more than the allotted quantity of soda, thinking to increase 
 the whiteness of the clothes in a shorter time : but too much 
 soda has the effect of making them what is called tender, and 
 causing them very soon to slit and drop to pieces. This prac- 
 tice (together with the long boiling) has excited much preju- 
 dice against the iise of soda in washing ; and it is an abuse 
 that it is difficult to guard against, when the washing is not 
 done under your own immediate inspection. Nevertheless, if 
 you are careful not to put in more than the due proportion, the 
 soda will be found to lighten the labour of the washers. 
 
 Such, however, is the care and exactness required in wash- 
 ing with soda, and so injurious its effects when used impro- 
 perly, that we think it should only be intrusted to persons 
 who are themselves particularly interested in the preservation 
 of the clothes. If you have not perfect confidence in your 
 washerwomen ox, servants, it is safest to have your white 
 clothes made clean in the usual manner, by washing through 
 two warm lathers, and boiling them afterwards but a very short 
 time. 
 
 TO WHITEN CLOTHES— After they are well washed, 
 spread them in the sun on the grass for two or three days : 
 bringing them in after the sun declines, lest they should be 
 mildewed by the evening damp. 
 
 Small muslins should always be laid on the grass to whiten 
 after washing, except in winter: and then they should bo 
 pinned to towels, and hung on a line exposed to the sun. 
 
 3 
 
26 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 TO BLEACH A FADED DRESS.— If you find that a 
 coloured muslin or chintz with a white ground has faded very 
 much in washing, you may discharge the colour entirely, and 
 wear it as a white dress, provided it has not been sewed with 
 coloured silk. For this purpose, having first well washed it in 
 hot suds, boil it till the colour seems to be gone ; then wash it out 
 of the boil, rinse it, and dry it in the sun. Then, if not quite 
 white, lay it on the grass where the sun is very hot, and bleach 
 it for several days. If still not quite white, repeat the boiling. 
 
 SPRINKLING AND FOLDING.— When your clothes 
 are quite dry, and you have brought them to the house in the 
 baskets, spread them one at a time on a large clean table or iron- 
 ing-hoard, and sprinkle them well by dipping your hand in a 
 pan of clean cold water. Then pull and stretch them, and fold 
 or roll them tightly. Put the small muslins all together, and 
 roll round them a large clean towel. 
 
 In folding shirts, turn inwards the collars, bosoms, and 
 wristbands ; rolling up the shirt tightly,, with the back 
 outside. 
 
 Dresses must be folded with the bodies and sleeves inside. 
 The collars of loose gowns should be turned inwards ; also the 
 ruffles or trimming of pantalets. 
 
 IRONING. — ^If you have not a laundry-room separate from 
 the kitchen, it is best on ironing days to arrange the dinner 
 so as to have nothing to roast before the fire ; as unless the fire- 
 place is extremely large, ironing and roasting cannot go on 
 together, on the same hearth, without inconvenience. 
 
 For ironing, have a clean well-swept hearth, and a large 
 clear, broad fire, with plenty of bright hot coals, as they hea 
 
IRONING. 27 
 
 the irons much better than a blaze. Chunks -of wood will 
 blacken and smoke the irons. 
 
 Your ironing table should be large, and used only for that 
 purpose, or for sprinkling and folding clothes. At least no 
 greasy work should be done on it ; but if that is unavoidable, 
 it should be well scoured afterwards. It should have a com- 
 modious drawer or drawers for the blanket and the sheet, the 
 wipers, holders, iron-stands, bees-wax, &c. It is well to have 
 always at hand a piece of bees-wax or the end of a spermaceti 
 candle. This if rubbed on the iron the moment it is taken from 
 the fire, and wiped off instantly, will add greatly to its smooth- 
 ness. If you find that the iron scorches or burns the wiper, it 
 will also scorch the clothes : therefore stand it aside on a cool 
 part of the hearth, or set it out of doors on the brick pavement, 
 and try another iron while it is cooling. The thinner the 
 article that is to be ironed, the less heat it will require. 
 
 For every person occupied in ironing, there should be an 
 allowance of three irons at least. If one person is ironing 
 alone, there should be four irons. It is a loss of time to waif 
 idly for want of an iron that may be hot enough or cool enough ; 
 which must always be the case if the number in use is too 
 scanty. 
 
 There should be a large clothes-horse at hand, on which to 
 hang the things as they come from the ironing table, that all 
 dampness may be thoroughly dried out of them, before they 
 are put away. For laces, muslins, and other very slight things 
 that dry completely in the process of ironing, you should have 
 a broad basket and lay them lightly in it, as you finish them. 
 In summer, sheets and table-cloths may after ironing be hung 
 out on the clothes-line in the hot sun ; turning them often. 
 
 Before using an iron for lace or thin muslin, smooth over 
 with it one or two kitchen towels, or some other small thick 
 
'2^ THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 article. Be careful in ironing lace, ribbons, or any long nar- 
 lOW strips, not to stretch them crooked, but do them slowly, 
 straight, and evenly ; and with the point of the iron press out 
 every scollop separately. Always iron lace and needle-work 
 on the wrong side. In ironing collars, do them first length- 
 ways, and then crossways — and take care not to stretch one 
 half of the collar larger than the other. Pleated frills never 
 look so well as when the pleats are laid down with the fingers ; 
 and skill in pleating is only to be acquired by practice. Care 
 should be taken to make all the pleats exactly of the same siz3 
 and perfectly straight. Crooked, uneven, or slanting pleats look 
 very badly. A ruffle with a very narrow hem pleats much 
 more easily than one with a broad hem. On a small frill, 
 crimping the edge with a straight knife may be substituted for 
 pleating. 
 
 In ironing a night-cap, do the crown first, and then the bor- 
 der ; lastly, the strings and bands. 
 
 Ribbons and silks should be smoothed with an iron just 
 warm enough to press out the creases. A hot iron will change 
 the colour. Green ribbons always change in ironing : blues 
 and pinks become darker. Silks should be sprinkled, folded, 
 and rolled up tightly an hour or more before they are ironed. 
 They should always be done on the wrong side where prac- 
 ticable. 
 
 Sheets and table-cloths should be ironed double, with a larrre 
 iron pressed on them hard and heavily. 
 
 All coloured things must be done with an iron rather coolei 
 than for white clothes, as too great heat will injure the colours. 
 Iron them always on the wrong side, wherever the manner ii 
 which they are made will allow it. 
 
 When about to iron a frock or gown, if you have not ample 
 space on the table, set a chair in a convenient place to receive 
 
IRONING. 29 
 
 (he sleeves or any part that may hang down, so as not to let 
 them touch the floor. Begin at the body : next do the sleeves : 
 and then the skirt, commencing at the top or upper part. A 
 Bkirt-board is an excellent thing. It should be made wide at 
 the bottom, narrojving gradually towards the top. It can be 
 obtained from the stores where wooden ware is sold ; or a car- 
 penter can be directed to make one. Cover it first with blan- 
 keting and then with sheeting, both sewed tightly and smoothly 
 over it. This board is to slip into the skirt of the dress, which 
 may thus be ironed without a crease. Puffings or gatherings 
 in the sleeves should be folded or creased in half, along the 
 middle, and ironed out like a flounce or ruffle. 
 
 In ironing petticoats, double them from the two sides, and 
 not behind and before ; as that will make a fold dow^n the front 
 which will stand out awkwardly when on. 
 
 When you iron a shirt, begin at the bosom ; the'n do the 
 collar, then the sleeves, and lastly the back. A small board, 
 on a similar plan to that recommended for the skirts of dresses, 
 will be found very useful to slip under the bosoms of shirts 
 when ironing them. 
 
 Whenever you begin a thing, iron it as fast as you can, (pro- 
 jriding always that you do it carefully,) and avoid quitting the 
 table while the article you ane doing is unfinished ; for if you 
 leave it, there is danger of its becoming so dry that it will be 
 impossible afterwards to iron it smoothly. 
 
 You may heat a few irons in the oven of a close stove; on 
 a footman or iron shelf hooked on in front of a coal-grate ; 6i 
 by setting them on the bars of a charcoal furnace. 
 
 FLUTING WITH A PATENT ITALIAN IRON — 
 
 This looks very well for any frilling or ruffling that is not of 
 worked muslin or lace, and it keeps in place much longer than 
 
 3* 
 
30 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 pleating, resisting even damp weather. It cannot, howevei 
 be done well if the frill is more than half a finger deep. A 
 patent iron costs but a trifle, and will be found very useful for 
 fluting the ruffles of gingham, chintz, or painted muslin 
 dresses and pelerines. These irons are fixed to a stand, and 
 have smooth tubes diminishing towards one end which is close, 
 and open al the other to admit the heater. There are always 
 twoAeaters ; they have long handles and somewhat resemble 
 a poker. While, you are using one, the other is heated by put- 
 ting the thick end* into the fire till it becomes nearly red-hot... 
 It is then slipped into the hollow tube, over which you stretch 
 the frill, a little at a time, holding it tightly with both hands 
 oetween the thumb and finger, and as you go along pinching 
 it down at the sides close against the iron, taking care to keep 
 it quite straight. The gathered part of the frill must go upon 
 the point of the iron. 
 
 When ruffles are to be fluted, they must first be starched and 
 dried, and then sprinkled very damp. 
 
 Take care to have one of the heaters always in the fire, so 
 that it may be hot by the time the other has become too cool 
 for use. If too hot, the tube will scorch the frill, and burn 
 your fingers. 
 
 TO IRON VELVET. — Having ripped the velvet apart, 
 damp each piece separately, and holding it tightly in both 
 hands, stretch it round a warm stove-pipe, the wrong-side of 
 the velvet against the iron. This will remove the creases, 
 and give the surface of the material a fresh and new appear- 
 ance. Velvet cannot be ironed on a table, as when spread out 
 on a hard substance the iron will not go smoothly over the 
 pile or shag, 
 
 A.nother way, is to heat a smoothing iron, and then to covei 
 
WASHING. 31 
 
 it with a wet cloth and hold it under the velvet — passing it to 
 and fro beneath. For this process, the velvet must be stretched 
 over a vacant space between two tables, and well secured to 
 cacn, oy weights or something that will keep it fast. The va 
 pour arising from the heated iron and the wet cloth, will raise 
 the pile of the velvet, while, at the same time, another person 
 brushes it up with a whisk. 
 
 The stove-pipe way is the best, but where there is no stove 
 the other mode will do. 
 
 TO IRON SILK. — Silk cannot be ironed smoothly so as 
 to press out all the creases, without first sprinkling it with 
 water and rolling it up tightly in a towel — letting it rest for an 
 hour or two. If the iron is the least too hot it will injure 
 the colour, and it should first be tried on an old piece of the 
 same silk. 
 
 Bright coloured silks or ribbons, such as pinks, blues, yel- 
 lows, greens, &c., always change colour on the application of 
 an iron. Blacks, browns, olives, grays, &c. generally look 
 very well after ironing. 
 
 Silks should always be ironed on the wrong side. 
 
 TO SHRINK NEW FLANNEL— New flannel should 
 always be shrunk or washed before it is made up, that it may 
 be cut out more accurately, and that the grease which is used 
 in manufacturing it may be extracted. First, cut off the list 
 along the selvage edges of the whole piece. Then put it into 
 warm (but not boiling) water, without soap. Begin at one end 
 of the piece, and rub it with both hands till you come to the 
 other end. This is to get out the grease, and the bjue with 
 wiiich new white flannel is always tinged. Then do the same 
 
33 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 through another water. Rinse it through a clean lukewanii 
 water; wring it lengthways, and stretch it well. In hanging 
 it out on a line do not suspend it in festoons, but spread it along 
 the line straight and lengthways. If dried in festoons, the 
 edges will be in great scollops, making it very difficult to 
 cut out. It must be dried in the sun. "When dry, let it be 
 stretched even, clapped with the hands, and rolled up tight and 
 smoothly, till wanted. 
 
 ANOTHER WAY.— If the flannel is intended for petticoats, 
 cut it at once into the requisite number of breadths, as it can 
 then be shrunk with much more convenience than when in one 
 long piece. For other flannel articles of dress, it is well, before 
 shrinking, to divide it into as many straight pieces as the thing 
 to be made will allow. 
 
 Lay the flannel all night in a tub of cold soft water. In the 
 morning, pour off the whole of the water, and drain but do not 
 wring "the flannel. Make a light suds of water quite warm, 
 (but not hot,) and of white soap or M^hitish Castile. Wash 
 the flannel thoroughly through this suds, and wring it out 
 as" dry as possible. Then having shaken it, stretched it, and 
 folded it smoothly down on a clean table to make it straight 
 and even, hang it out immediately. W^hen about half dry, go 
 to it, stretch, shake, and turn it. Take it in while it is still 
 damp, fold it smooth,* cover it with a clean towel, and after it 
 has lain half an hour, iron it with a rather cool iron. 
 
 We consider this the best way of shrinking new flannel. 
 
 TO WASH FLANNEL.— Flannel should always be 
 washed with white soap: otherwise, it will neither look well 
 \0T feel soft. The water must be warm but not boiling, as it 
 shrinks flannel to scald it. Wash it in clean water, and 
 
WASHING. 33 
 
 entirely by itself. Rub tbe soap to a strong latber in tbe water, 
 before the flannel is put in ; for if the soap is rubbed on the 
 Sannel itself, it will become hard and stiff. Wash it in this 
 manner through two warm waters, with a strong lather in each. 
 Rinse it in another warm water, with just sufficient soap in it 
 to give the water a sjight whitish appearance. To this rinsing 
 water you must add a little blue from the indigo bag. Cold 
 rinsing water is found to harden the flannel. When you have 
 rinsed it thoroughly, wring it hard, shake it well, and spread 
 it out on che clothes-line. While drying, shake, stretch, and 
 turn it several times. It should dry slowly. 
 
 Flannel always washed precisely in this manner, will look 
 white and feel soft as long as it lasts, retaining a new appear- 
 ance and scarcely shrinking at all. But if once badly washed 
 with scalding water, rubbed with brown soap, and rinsed in 
 cold water, it will never again look well. 
 
 If you are willing to take the trouble, flannel washed ac- 
 cording to the above receipt, will look beautifully if put into a 
 dry clean sheet or towel while it is wrung, and afterwards 
 (while drying) held between two persons and shook all the 
 time. This may be worth while for very fine new flannel, or 
 such as is worn by infants. It is often practised in the south, 
 where servants are numerous. 
 
 WOOLLEN STOCKINGS.— These are to be done as fast 
 as possible, and washed precisely in the same manner as flannel. 
 It is best to dry them on the boards made for the purpose in 
 tlie shape of legs and feet, over which the stockings are to be 
 stretched to keep them from, shrinking. The boards are to be 
 hung up by a string to the clothes line. If you have no boards, 
 stretch and pull the stockings when half dry ; and in hanging 
 them out, suspend them by the toes pinned to the line. 
 
34 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 BLACK WORSTED STOCKINGS. — These shouU^ 
 always be washed before they are worn. Lay them all night 
 to soak in cold water. Wash them next day by themselves, 
 through two waters, warm, but not hot, the soap being previ- 
 ously rubbed into the water so as to form a lather before the 
 stockings are put in ; and mixing with the first water a table- 
 spoonful of gall. Then rinse them, first in lukewarm water, 
 and then in several different cold waters, till the dye ceases to 
 come out, '\nd the last water is colourless. Stretch them, and 
 hang them >ut immediately in the air, to dry as fast as possible. 
 Then iron them on the wrong side. 
 
 Any dark-coloured worsted stockings may be washed in this 
 manner. When you hang them out, it is well always to stretch 
 them on drying boards. 
 
 WOOLLEN YARN.— After the yarn is spun, whether 
 ivhite, gray, or coloured, it should be well washed to get out 
 ill the grease that may remain in the wool. It must be done 
 ,n soft water, made warm but not hot; allowing to each bucket 
 )f water, a large tea-cupful of lye. Use no soap ; but wash 
 the yarn through two warm waters with lye in each. Next 
 rinse it through several cold waters, till the last comes off quite 
 '•Jean ; and then spread it out to dry, as open as possible. 
 
 All woollen yarn should be washed both before and after 
 lyeing : the first washing to remove the grease ; the second to 
 uevent the colour from rubbinor off. 
 
 TO WASH BLANKETS.— The best time for washing 
 blankets is in the summer, when the days are at the longest. 
 It is well to commence them early in the morning, that they 
 may oe dry by evening, and they should be done in clear 
 bright weather Washing blankets is very laborious work for 
 
WASHING. 35 
 
 women, and in the country they are sometimes done by servant 
 men. In this case, the first suds may be put into a clean bar- 
 rel, and when the blanket is quite steeped, the man may beat 
 it with a large wooden beetle. Or if it is in a tub, he may 
 step in and trample the blanket with his feet. This is a rough 
 way but a good one. 
 
 Blankets should always be washed one at a time; first in 
 a strong suds ; then in weaker suds ; and then a third timo 
 through another suds quite weak. Wrmg them sligbtly : pull 
 them as- straight and even as you can, and then hang them up 
 in the sun to drip. If not quite dry at evening, take them 
 down from the line, fold them, put them into a large basket, 
 and next day (if the Aveather is clear) hang them out again. 
 If the day is damp or cloudy, dry them in the house. Fold 
 them smoothly, and put them away in a large chest, sprink- 
 ling tobacco between the folds, or laying bits of camphor 
 amonsf them. 
 
 TO WASH CLOTH CLOTHES.— In economical fami- 
 lies it is very customary to have the cloth coats and pantaloons 
 of the gentlemen converted into jackets and trowsers for little 
 boys ; previous to which it is proper that they should always 
 oe washed. 
 
 Brush them well before washing. It is best to rip out the 
 pockets of the pantaloons, and also the linings of the waist- 
 bands, lest they should communicate lint to the cloth. Wash 
 them through two warm lathers of brown soap (soft soap is 
 best) with a half tea-cupful of lye in the first suds. Do not 
 wring them ; but pull and stretch them well, and roll them up 
 tight, and press out the water against the washing-board, or 
 against the side of the tub. Then lay them (rolled up) on a 
 clean table, and press and squeeze out the remaininp- suds 
 
36 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 setting a tub underneath to catch the droppings.' Aftervards, 
 rinse them in two light lathers (a little warm) rolling them up 
 and pressing out the water, as before, after each rinsing. 
 Wringing in the usual way will cause them to be shrivelled 
 and streaked. When all the water has been pressed out, stretch 
 and pull them well, and hang them up by the waistband on a 
 clothes-line. When perfectly dry, sprinkle them, roll them 
 very tight in a thick damp towel, and let them lie all night 
 Iron them on the wrong side till they are perfectly dry, other 
 wise they may still shrivel. 
 
 Pantaloons and waistcoats of light cassimere must be washed 
 in suds of white soap without any lye ;- and in rinsing them 
 the lathers should be very light, the last one scarcely tinged 
 with soap. Iron them on the right side, and place a thin fine 
 cloth between them and the iron, which must not be too hot. 
 
 TO WASH A WOOLLEN TABLE-COVER— A bright 
 windy day is best for this purpose. Having first taken out all 
 the grease-spots and stains, put the table-cover into a tub with 
 a clean suds of white soap and clear water, warm, but not hot, 
 (in which has been mixed about two table-spoonfuls of ox- 
 gall,) and wash and squeeze it well. Then wash it through 
 a second lather somewhat weaker, of soap, but without anv 
 gall in it. Afterwards rinse it through a light lukewarm suds, 
 just tinged with soap. Instead of wringing, (which w^ill shrivel 
 it,) press out as much of the water as you can with your hands ; 
 then fold it up in a tight long fold, and roll and press it hard 
 with both hands on a clean ironing table, having set a tub to 
 catch the water that drips from it during the process. Roll it 
 always from you, towards the end of the table. When the 
 "vater ceases to come from it, shake and stretch it well ; and 
 
WASHING. 37 
 
 dry U as soon as possible ; but not by the fire. Go to it fre- 
 quently while drying, and stretch and shake it. While it is 
 Vet damp, take it in, spread it on an ironing sheet, and iron it 
 on the wrong side, pressing it hard. 
 
 If there is grease on the table-cover, it is best, the day before 
 washing, to cover all the spots with scraped Wilmington clay 
 wet to a stiff paste with a little water, repeating the clay till 
 the grease comes out. Or you may remove them with very 
 clear spirits of turpentine, put on with a sponge. To the stains, 
 if there are any, you may apply hartshorn weakened with a 
 little water. 
 
 A WOOLLEN SHAWL.— This may be done precisely 
 according to the above receipt, taking care to pull and stretch 
 the fringe well, while drying. After ironing, the appearance 
 of the shawl will be improved by folding it smoothly, and 
 pressing it for a few days between a bed and the sacking. 
 
 In buying a plaid or tartan shawl, avoid choosing one that 
 has any white in it. Even the smallest portion of white (for 
 instance, two or three threads in the figure) will, by immediately 
 showing the dust, give the shawl (though almost new) a dirty, 
 dingy appearance. 
 
 TO WASH COLOURED DRESSES. — Have ready 
 plenty of clean soft water. It spoils coloured dresses to wash 
 them in the dirty suds left of white clothes ; though this is a 
 very common practice with bad washers. The water must be 
 warm, but by no means hot, lest it injure the colours. Rub 
 soap enough into the water to make a strong lather before you 
 put in the chintz, (adding a table-spoonful of ox-gall,) and then 
 wash it well. For the second water, put it into another soap- 
 suds, colder and weaker, and wash it through that. Then throw 
 
 4 
 
38 thehousebook. 
 
 the dress into pure cold water, and rinse out all the s-oap 
 Lastly, put it into a second rinsing water, with a very littl« 
 blue from the indigo bag- in it, and a tea-spoonful of oil of vitrioi 
 or a handful of salt to set the colours. Wring it well. 
 
 Have ready a large earthen pan filled with weak starch tingea 
 with a little blue. Painted lawns or muslins will be much 
 improved by mixing a little gum arable water with the starch : 
 for instance, a table-spoonful. Put the dress into it, and run 
 it through the starch. Then squeeze it out, open it well, clap 
 it, and hang it immediately out to dry in the shade ; taking the 
 sleeves by the cuffs and pinning them up to the skirt, so as to 
 spread them wide and cause them to dry the sooner. 
 
 If coloured clothes continue wet too long, no precaution can 
 prevent the colours from running into streaks. This will cer- 
 tainly happen if they are allowed to lie in the water. They 
 must always be done as fast as possible, till the whole process 
 1°) completed. If the colours are once injured, nothing can re- 
 store them; but by good management they may always be 
 preserved, unless in coarse low priced calicoes ; and many of 
 them wash perfectly well. 
 
 As soon as the dress is quite dry^ take it in ; but, unless It is 
 wanted immediately, do not sprinkle it, lest in lying damp the 
 colours should be impaired. It should not be sprinkled over 
 night, if not to be ironed till next day. When perfectly dry, 
 roll it up in a large clean towel, and put it away by itself till 
 two or three hours before you iron it. 
 
 Chintzes, &c., should always be washed in fine weather : 
 but if it is intensely cold, it is better to dry them at the fiie 
 than to risk the spoiling of the colours from their freezing in 
 the open air. But it is still better to defer their Avashing till 
 the weather is sufficiently moderate to allow them to be hung 
 out of aoors. 
 
WASHING. 39 
 
 Take care not to use too much oil of vitriol, lest it corrode the 
 firess and cause it to drop in holes. If you can procure pyro- 
 ligneous acid or vineg-ar of wood, a large spoonful of that may 
 be used to set the colours without any risk of injury. 
 
 In layinjr by muslin or chintz dresses till next season, let 
 them be washed and dried, but neither starched nor ironed : 
 and roll up each dress closely in a linen -Wwel. If put away 
 dirty or with any starch in them, they will tear or crack when 
 you do them up again. 
 
 Bran water is excellent for washing light calico dresses, 
 lion a SuHiciency of wheat bran in a large kettle ; strain off the 
 water, and use it for the dress, cooling it to a lukewarm heat 
 with a little cold water. It will require no soap, and will pre- 
 vent the colours from running. Wash the dress through two 
 bran waters. Then rinse it in cold water. 
 
 Another way of setting the colours of a dress, is to grate 
 eight raw potatoes and mix them wnth a gallon of cold water. 
 Put a portion of the potato mixture into each of the waters 
 through which you wash the dress. 
 
 Another way, (for a light coloured dress,) is to tie up in two 
 muslin bags a half-pint of rice, and boil it in two quarts of 
 water till perfectly soft. Mix the rice water with that which 
 you use for the dress. Take no soap, but rub on the rice in 
 the bags, using one for the first, and one for the second water. 
 
 MOURNING CHINTZ, OR VERY DARK CALICO.— 
 
 Put into a tub some clear soft water, (warm, but not hot,) and 
 m'x with it a table-spoonful of ox-gall to set the colour. 
 Then rub in sufficient soap to make a strong lather. Put in 
 the dress, and having washed it well, wring it out, and prepare 
 a second tub of clean water, (not so warm as the first,) with 
 another table-spoonful of ox-gall stirred into it, and a weaker 
 
40 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 lather ol soap. Wash the dress through this ; rinse it well 
 through two cold waters, (patting into the last a handful of 
 salt,) and wring it out immediately. No coloured dress must 
 on any account be left lying in the water, as it will certainly 
 cause the colours to run into streaks. 
 
 Having wrung the dress out of the rinsing water, starch ifc 
 immediately, and t\)^n dry it in the shade. By making the 
 starch with coffee instead of water, you will prevent the whitish 
 look which is often so disfiguring to dark or mourning chintzes, 
 after they are washed. You may use for this purpose coffee 
 that has been left at breakfast. Strain the coffee, and mix the 
 starch with it in the usual manner, pressing out all the lumps 
 with the back of the spoon, and making it very smooth. Allow 
 about a table-spoonful of raw starch to a pint of liquid coffee. 
 Boil it well, and to prevent stickiness, stir it while boiling with 
 the end of a spermaceti candle ; or, what is still better, boil 
 with it a lump of spermaceti (about the size of a small chesnut) 
 broken off from the bottom of a candle. 
 
 When the starch has boiled, put it to cool in a large deep 
 sarthen pan, and pass the dress through it ; seeing that every 
 part imbibes the starch thoroughly. Then squeeze out the 
 dress, open it well, clap it, and hang it to dry in the shade. 
 When dry, roll it up tightly ; but do not sprinkle it, unless you 
 are going to iron it in two or three hours, as allowing it to 
 remain damp too long may cause the colours to spread. 
 
 It is well not to wash a coloured dress except on a fine day, 
 when it can be hung out and dried at once. But if it is abso- 
 lutely necessary to wash one in extremely cold weather, it is 
 belter to dry it by the fire than to hang it out of doors, as freez- 
 ing will certainly fade the colours. 
 
 Coloured things should on no consideration he boiled, scalded, 
 
WASHING. 4i 
 
 or put into hoi water : neither, as we have said, should they bo 
 allowed to remain long in any water. 
 
 A tea-spoonful of oil of vitriol, or a table-spoonful of 
 very good real cider vinegar, or a handful of salt mixed 
 in the last rinsing water, will assist greatly in setting the 
 colour. 
 
 Another way (and a very good one) of stiffening a dark 
 chintz, is to use glue instead of starch ; allowiwg a piece of 
 glue about as large as the palm of your hand, to three quarts 
 or a gallon of soft water, according to the degree of stiffness 
 you desire. Having boiled the glue in the water, till it is en- 
 tirely dissolved, let it become lukewarm, and then pass the 
 dress through it, squeezing it well. Then dry it as fast as 
 possible; and when dry, roll it up tightly, but do not sprinkle 
 it, unless you intend to iron it in two or three hours. 
 
 In ironing a chintz dress, do the skirt on the wrong side, and 
 as much of the sleeves as you can conveniently. The body 
 and some parts of the sleeves cannot be ironed otherwise than 
 on the rigkt side; but, to prevent their looking glazy, spread a 
 thin white handkerchief smoothly and evenly between them 
 and the iron, changing its place as you proceed. 
 
 A MERINO DRESS OR A MOUSSELINE DE LAINE. 
 
 — ^Take the dress entirely apart, if there are any pleats in it; 
 as nothing that is made with pleats can either be washed or 
 ironed to look well. Lest any of them should be lost, tack all 
 the small pieces together with a needle and thread. Shake and 
 brush the dress to remove whatever dust may have lodged 
 within the pleats or gathers. Make a strong lather with white 
 soap and soft water, (warm, but not hot,) and stir into it a large 
 table-spoonful of ox-gall. Wash the merino well through this, 
 
 and then wring it out. Have ready a second and much lighter 
 
 4* 
 
42 T H E H O U S E C O K. 
 
 suds, made with very little soap, and water not more than 
 lukewarm; adding a handful of salt, ar a small tea-spoonlul 
 of oil of vitriol. If the colour of the dress is light, or bright, 
 or very delicate, the vitriol will be the best. Salt will answer 
 well enough for a dark or plain coloured merino. Having 
 washed the dress well through the second suds, wring it 
 very dry, shake it out, and pull and stretch it straight and 
 even. It must not be rinsed. Hang it out immediately to 
 dry, pinning all the pieces carefully to the line. Before it is 
 quite dry, (when you find it what is called ironing-damp,^ 
 take it in, fold it smoothly without sprinkling, and let it rest 
 for about a quarter of an hour wrapped in a clean towel. 
 Then have your irons ready, and iron it on the wrong side, or 
 the side that is to be the wrong one when the dress is put 
 t'jgether again. 
 
 Wash a chaly in the same manner; and a bombazine also, 
 except that for a black bombazine it is best to put a tea-cupful 
 of lye in the first suds rather than to use ox-gall. 
 
 Dresses that have any wool or worsted should not be under- 
 taken, unless they can be washed and ironed at once ; as re- 
 maining damp will shrink and shrivel them. 
 
 Unless the wadding of a merino cloak or pelisse has been 
 basted between two linings, it will be found scarcely possible 
 (even with washing) to remove the downy particles of cotton, 
 that will adhere to the inside w^hen the merino is taken apart 
 to be turned. Therefore, we recommend always a double 
 lining; the inner one of something very thin and slight. 
 
 A PAINTED MUSLIN DRESS.— Make a lather of white 
 Boap and lukewarm water, and wash the dress carefully through 
 It. Then rinse it through two cold waters. You may put mto 
 
WASHING. 43 
 
 the last a small tea-spoonful of oil of vitriol to set the colours, 
 or a table-spoonful of cider vinegar. 
 
 Spread the dress well out, and hang it immediately to dry, 
 but not in the sun. 
 
 For the stiffening, pick and wash a pint and a half of rice, 
 and boil it an hour in a gallon of clear soft water. Then strain 
 the rice-water into a clean bucket or a deep earthen pan. Pass 
 the dress well through the rice-water, and then squeeze it as 
 dry as you can. Do not clap it, but open and stretch it out in 
 every part as well as possible. 
 
 Fix up two lines, at a convenient distance from each other, 
 (they may be of stout twine or new tape,) and pin the dress 
 across both lines, so that it may hang spread open between 
 them. While drying, go to it frequently, pull it both ways, 
 and stretch it even all over. 
 
 Having pulled and stretched it thoroughly, sprinkle it 
 slightly, and roll it up in a clean towel. Do not let it remain 
 longer than an hour without ironinfr. 
 
 If there is any thing about it that is to puff out, double the 
 full part along the middle, and iron it as you would a gathered 
 ruffle. 
 
 A BOOK MUSLIN DRESS.— A dress of book muslin, 
 if always well done up, will not require frequent washing. In 
 buying a new one, avoid getting such muslin as has a blueish 
 cast. - It is very unbecoming to every complexion ; and never 
 looks well till after it has been washed. When a good white, 
 it is best to wear it a few times before it is washed. They 
 require much care in doing up. 
 
 Make a strong suds with white soap and warm water. Put 
 in the dress, and wash it well ; squeezing and pressing rather 
 than rubbing it ; as book muslin tears easily, and, without great 
 
44 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 care, will not last long. Wash it through a second suds, and 
 then pass it through two rinsing waters ; adding a very Utile 
 blue to the last. Then open out the dress ; and, while we.,, 
 run it through a thin starch, diluted with water either warm o; 
 cold. Stretch it, and hang it in the sun to dry. Afterwards, 
 sprinkle it and roll it up in a clean fine towel ; letting it lie for 
 half an hour or more. Then open it out, stretch it even, and 
 clap it in your hands till clear all over. Have irons ready, and 
 iron it before it is too dry, on the wrong side, whenever prac- 
 ticable. Take care that the irons are not too hot, as it will 
 scorch easily. When done, do not fold the dress, but hang it 
 up in a commode or wardrobe. 
 
 In ironing, be very careful to get the hem even. Many per- 
 sons, previous to having ihem washed, rip out the hems of their 
 thin muslin dresses, afterwards running them over again. This 
 is a good plan, if you are willing to take the trouble ; which, 
 however, is not much. 
 
 GOLD OR SILVER MUSLIN.— These muslins should 
 not be worn till they are much soiled, as they must be washed 
 very delicately, first taking them apart. Make a strong lathei 
 of filtered or very clear soft water, and fine white soap in which 
 there must be no perfume. The water should be warm, but not 
 hot. Then with your hands turn the muslin about in it till it 
 is thoroughly saturated with the suds. Squeeze it well, but do 
 not wring it. Repeat this through two other lathers, each a 
 ^fittle weaker and cooler. Then rinse it lightly through two 
 waters ; squeeze it, shake it out, open it well, and hang it in 
 the sun to dry as fast as possible. W^hen you iron it, have a 
 linen cloth over the blanket ; take a rather cool iron, and go 
 over it carefully on the wrong side ; yet unless the sprigs of 
 gold are very small, it is best not to iron it at all, but to stretch 
 
WASHING 4b 
 
 it well in every part. You may brighten each sprig by rubbing 
 every one separately with a bit of white or crimson velvet of 
 the best quality. Unless the velvet is very good, and dyed 
 in grain, the colour may come off and leave a stain around each 
 sprig. The trouble of burnishing the gold in this manner, will 
 be repaid by its increased brightness. 
 
 A dress of gold or silver muslin should be kept carefully 
 folded and pinned up in a linen cloth. 
 
 As in the stores you can buy only what is called a dress 
 pattern, consisting of a limited number of yards, it is well 
 when you purchase one of these muslins, to send at once a 
 sample to India, with an order for a sufficient quantity for 
 a new body and sleeves when the make of the first is no longer 
 fashionable. 
 
 Another way of brightening the flowers of gold or silver 
 muslin, is to rub every sprig with a bit of fine white flannel 
 slightly wet with warm spirits of wine, replacing the bit of 
 flannel very frequently by a clean one. 
 
 TO CLEAN GOLD LACE.— Burn some roche alum; 
 then powder it very fine and sift it. Dip a clean soft brush 
 into the powdered alum, and rub the gold lace with it. After- 
 wards wipe it with a clean soft flannel. Gold embroidery may 
 be brightened in the same manner. 
 
 TO WASH BLACK SILK.— To a sufficient quantity of 
 ox-gall add enough of boiling water to make it warm. Spread 
 out the silk on a large kitchen table, and dipping a clean sponge 
 in the gall, go over the whole of the article with it, on both 
 sides. Then squeeze it well out, and repeat the application of 
 the sponge, having added more boiling water to the gall so as 
 to heat it again. Rinse the silk in clear cold water, and repeat 
 
46 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 the rinsing (clianging the water each time) till the last wato. 
 appears perfectly clean. Then stretch it, and dry it quickly ir 
 the air, and afterwards pin it out on a table. 
 
 To give it the consistence of new silk, dissolve in boiling 
 ■water a little glue or gum arabic ; mix it with sufficient cold 
 water, and sponge the dress all over with it. This must be 
 done on the wrong side. Then dry it, sprinkle it slightly, and 
 roll it up tightly in a towel : let it lie a few hours, and then iron 
 It, taking care that the iron is not too hot, as silk scorches very 
 easily. 
 
 You may perfume the last application of ox-gall- by mixing 
 with it a little musk. 
 
 Unless the silk is of very good quality, it will not be worth 
 while to take the trouble of washing it. 
 
 Previous to washing a black silk dress, rip the skirt from 
 the body, and the sleeves from the arm holes. 
 
 A bombazine dress may be washed in the same manner, but 
 after washing, it must not be stiffened. 
 
 BISHOP'S LAWN.— Put it into a lather of hot soap-suds, 
 (white Castile soap is best,) and wash it through that and a 
 second water of the same. Then boil it a quarter of an hour. 
 When you take it out of the boil, rinse it in warm water, and 
 then throw it into cold water and rinse it. Afterwards put it 
 into another rinsing water, very slightly tinged with blue. Have 
 ready some thin starch, in which mix a little gum arabic water, 
 in the proportion of a table-spoonful of gum water to a pint of 
 starch. The gum arabic used for this purpose should be of the 
 whitest and finest kind, and pulverized before putting it into the 
 water, which should be warm. It must be prepared the day 
 before ; or, rather, it is well to keep a bottle of gum arabic wate* 
 always in the house, as it is useful for many purposes. 
 
WASHING. 47 
 
 Put the starch into a large earthen pan, and pass the lawn 
 rlirough it, squeezing it well. Then stretch, clap, dry, and iron 
 It. It will have the appearance of new lawn. 
 
 Fine lawn or cambric handkerchiefs should be washed in this 
 manner, making the starch very weak. 
 
 FINE BROWN LINEN.— Brown French linen of very 
 fine quality, is frequently used for ladies' travelling dresses in 
 the summer, and for gentlemen's round jackets. To prevent it 
 from fading, it should be washed with hay, as should also 
 brown holland aprons and petticoats. Two large handfuls of 
 hay will suffice for one dress. Wash the dress first in cold 
 water, without any soap ; having first boiled the hay in suffi- 
 cient water to cover it well. When the hay has boiled hard 
 for half an hour, strain off the water, and dilute it with cold 
 water, till it becomes nearly the colour of new brown linen. 
 Then wash the dress in it, still without soap, having saved 
 some of the hay-water for rinsing. Rinse it through two hay- 
 waters, and in the last put a table-spoonful of pyroligneous 
 acid, or vinegar of wood, (to be obtained at the druggist's,) or 
 a small tea-spoonful of oil of vitriol. Hang the dress out im- 
 mediately to dry in the shade; and when dry, do' not sprinkle 
 it, unless you intend to iron it the same day. 
 
 Provided that the ground is tea-coloured, olive, drab, or paie 
 brown, any chintz or painted muslin may be washed to great 
 advantage with hay. If there is white in the figure, the hay- 
 water should be more diluted, and the rinsing-water should 
 have none of the hay. 
 
 Hay water is much employed by the French laundresses. 
 
 The fine brown grass-clotb used for travelling dresses and 
 bonnets, should be washed with hay ; and squeezed rather than 
 rubbed. * 
 
48 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 WASHING A GINGHAM BONNET.— A drawn or 
 sherred gingham bonnet may be washed without opening the 
 casinofs or takino- out the cane or whalebone ; but it is best to 
 rip off the frilling, bows, and strings, and wash and iron them 
 in the usual way. The bonnet, divested of its trimming, 
 (eihould then be placed on a wooden bonnet-block, (if you have 
 one,) otherwise stretch the crown on the bottom of an inverted 
 stone jar. Then make a lather of white soap and lukewarm 
 water, (adding a tea-spoonful of gall to set the colours,) and 
 with a clean brush (a new tooth-brush will do) go carefully 
 over the whole of the bonnet, washing well in between the 
 cases. Repeat this with a second clean suds, but without gall, 
 and then rinse it off with clear cold water put on with a clean 
 sponge or a soft white rag. The bonnet must then be immedi- 
 ately set out in the air, and dried upon the block or jar ; going 
 to it occasionally and stretching and pulling the brim to make 
 it dry, straight, and even. Then having washed, starched, and 
 ironed the trimmings, put them again on the bonnet. 
 
 A white cambric muslin bonnet may be washed in the same 
 manner. 
 
 NANKEEN. — ^To prevent nankeen from fading, the colour 
 should be set when it is quite new, in the piece, before it is 
 made up. To do this, put some good oak or hickory ashes-, 
 into a clean barrel or bucket, and pour on sufficient soft water 
 to make a moderately strong lye. Then draw or strain it off, 
 very clear, into a tub. Lay the piece of nankeen in the tub of 
 lye, and let it remain all night. Next day wring it out, (with- 
 out rinsing,) and dry it in the shade. When dry, sprinkle it, 
 roll it up, and iron it. We havtf seen nankeen thus soaked in 
 lye while quite new, retaining its full colour till the article 
 made of it was worn out. *• 
 
WASHING. 49 
 
 In washing nankeen, after it has been worn, take care not to 
 have the water too hot. Use soft soap for it, in preference to 
 hard. Wash it through two lathers, putting a tea-cupful of 
 lye into the first. Rinse it through two waters with a sligh; 
 tinge of soap in each. Iron it on the wrong side. 
 
 FURNITURE CHINTZ The articles of furniture chintz 
 
 that you intend washing, must be taken apart, and the ^ust 
 well shaken out of each piece. 
 
 Boil some rice (in the proportion of two pounds of rice to 
 two gallons of water) till quite soft. Strain it from the kettle 
 into a tub, and let it stand till about the warmth generally used 
 for coloured cottons. Then put in the chintz and wash it till 
 all the dirt appears to be out, using instead of soap some of 
 the boiled rice tied up in a muslin bag. 
 
 In the mean time, have boiling the same quantity of rice and 
 water as before; but when it is done, strain it, and having tied 
 the rice in a bag, put it in a tub of warm clear water. Wash 
 the chintz in this till you are sure of its being perfectly clean, 
 still using the rice as soap. Afterwards, rinse it in the water 
 in which you boiled the last rice, (and which should be saved 
 in a tub for the purpose,) mixing with the water a few spoon- 
 fuls of cider vinegar. Stretch it even, and hang it on the 
 lines to dry. After it is dry, stretcli and fold it, spread it on 
 an ironing-board, but instead of an iron, rub it all over on the 
 right side with a smooth stone. 
 
 It is still better to have it mangled in a machine, or 
 calendered. The greater the gloss, the longer it will keep clean. 
 
 Chintz bed-spreads should be washed in this manner. 
 
 SMALL MUSLINS. — Soap the muslins the night *)efore, 
 and put them to soak in cold water. Next morning wash them 
 
 5 
 
50 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 through two waters tolerably warm, using soap to each, and 
 squeezing and pressing rather than rubbing them. After- 
 wards squeeze them immediately through a suds, as hot as you 
 can bear your hand in, and let them lie about five minutes in the 
 hot lather. Then rinse them ; first through a moderately warm 
 water, and then through a lukewarm water into which you 
 have infused a very little blue from the indigo bag. The tinge 
 must be very slight, as too much blue will give them a very 
 ungenteel look. Squeeze them well out of the last water, and 
 spread them to dry. 
 
 Have ready the starch, which should be made in the propor- 
 tion of two table-spoonfuls of dry starch for about three capes 
 and half a dozen single collars. The starch should be of the 
 very best quality. Mix it in a bowl with sufficient cold water 
 to cover the starch, and with the back of the spoon press out 
 all the lumps so as to make the starch perfectly smooth. Pour 
 the mixture into a pint or a pint and a half of boiling water, 
 in a clean skillet or tin saucepan. Boil it well for half an 
 hour: and when half-boiled, stir it a moment with the end of a 
 new spermaceti candle. Then strain it into a broad pan, and 
 press into it the blue bag, just sufficiently to give it a slight tinge 
 
 When the muslins are dry, throw them into the starch, 
 squeezQ them out, dry them a little, and clap them between the 
 palms of your hands (a small portion at a time) till they are 
 quite clear. It is best to clap them near an open window in 
 summer, and in winter by the fire. Then pull them straight 
 and even. 
 
 When they are not quite dry, but just damp enough to iron, 
 have the irons ready, and lay a fiile flannel (a petticoat for in 
 stance) on the ironing blanket. Spread the cape or collar upon 
 it, covering it smoothly with a piece of old thin muslin, so xbat 
 the iron may not exactly touch the article. 
 
WASHING. 61 
 
 When you take the iron from the fire, rub it with a piece of 
 bees-wax, and then wipe it quickly ; and before you use it for 
 the muslin, smooth over a coarse towel with it. 
 
 Then iron the cape or collar carefully on the wrong side, 
 pressing out the scallops one by one. 
 
 If the article has no ornamental needle-work, but merely a 
 plain hem or ruffle, iron it on the right side. 
 
 Clear-starching should always be done on a bright dry day. 
 If the weather is damp and gloomy,^ the things will be too 
 limber and of a bad colour. 
 
 The thicker the muslin, the less clapping will be necessary. 
 
 Collars or capes of bobbinet may be done up in this manner, 
 also gauze or crepe-lisse. 
 
 No articles of muslin or lace should (when out of use) be 
 put away with starch in them. For instance, when laid aside 
 during the term of mourning, they should be soaked and 
 washed clean ; then well rinsed in plain cold water, stretched 
 even, dried, and rolled up, but not ironed. Afterwards, put 
 them into an old pillow-case or something of the sort, or wrap 
 them closely in a fine towel, keeping them in a safe place till 
 they are wanted again for use. They will then require wash- 
 ing in warm water, and whitening on the grass. After they 
 are well bleached, proceed to do them up as usual. 
 
 If put away with starch in them, they will crack and split 
 to pieces, when you go to prepare them again for wearing. 
 
 BOBBINET OR COTTON LACE.>-Having ripped off 
 the lace, roll it round a black bottle covered with white linen 
 or muslin, sewed on smoothly. Then fill the bottle with 
 water ; cork it tightly, and suspend it with a string in a kettle 
 of cold soap-suds, made with Castile soap. Boil it mode- 
 rately tin the lace looks perfectly white, which it will in about 
 
52 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 half an hour. Then drain off the suds, and set the bottle m 
 the sun, till the lace dries on it. 
 
 "When dry, have ready in a basin some very weak gum 
 arable water, and pass the lace through it, squeezing it well. 
 Then stretch it out evenly, and clap it in your hands to 
 clear it while drying. Lay it on an ironing-sheet, and iron it 
 on the wrong side with rather a cool iron, taking care to press 
 out all the scollops. When you put it away, wind it round a 
 ribbon block, which should be a little wider than the lace. 
 
 Bobbinet quilling may be done up in the same manner. 
 Care should be taken to have it no stiffer than when new. 
 
 Instead of quilling bobbinet lace, it will save much trouble 
 to sew it on permanently, and flute it over a patent Italian iron. 
 It should be gathered full, allowing thrice the quantity that 
 would be sufficient to go round the collar if sewed on plain: 
 
 THREAD LACE. — Having ripped the lace from the article 
 to which it was attached, and carefully picked out the loose 
 bits of thread, roll the lace very smoothly and securely round 
 a clean black bottle, which has been covered with new white 
 linen sewed on tightly. Tack each end of the lace with a 
 needle and thread, to keep it smooth ; and in wrapping it round 
 the bottle, take care not to crumple or fold in any of the 
 scollops or pearlings. Pour into a saucer a veri/ little of ths 
 best sweet oil, and, dipping in your finger, touch it lightly on 
 the lace while proceeding to wind it on the bottle. Too much 
 oil will make it greasy. 
 
 Have ready in a wash-kettle, a strong cold lather made of 
 very clear water and white Castile soap. Having filled the 
 bottle with cold water to keep it from bursting, and corked it 
 well, stand it upright in the suds, and tie a string round the 
 neck, and secure it to the ears or handle of the kettle, to pre- 
 
WASHING. 53 
 
 vent its knocking about and breaking while over the fire. Let 
 it boil in the suds for an hour or more, or till the lace is clean 
 and white all through. Then take it out, drain off the suds, 
 and stand the bottle in the sun, for the lace to dry on it. When 
 it is quite dry, remove the lace from the bottle, and roll it round 
 a wide ribbon-block, if you have one ; otherwise lay it in long 
 folds, place it within a sheet of smooth white paper, and press 
 it in a large book for a day or two. 
 
 By this simple process, in which there is neither rinsing, 
 starching, nor ironing, the lace will acquire the same consist- 
 ence, transparency, and tint that it had when new, and the 
 scollops at the edge will come out perfectly even. We can 
 safely recommend this as the best possible method of doing up 
 thread lace, and as the only one which gives it a truly new 
 appearance. 
 
 It is well not to put the oil on the lace till the soap-suds is 
 ready in the kettle, so that the bottle may go in immediately ; 
 as, if allowed to stand, much of the oil will run down and 
 drip off. 
 
 If you wish the lace to look of a dead white, and not to have 
 the peculiar appearance of that which has never been washed 
 It all, omit the sweet oil ; but wind it on a bottle, boil it in 
 fioap-suds, and dry it in the sun without rinsing, just as directed 
 above. When dry, take it off the bottle and roll it on a ribbon- 
 block till you want to use it. 
 
 ANOTHER WAY TO W^ASH LACE.— Get a black 
 bottle : a square one is best; for instance, the kind that is used 
 for sarsaparilla. Sew all over it a piece of thick linen or cotton 
 rag. Then wind the lace smoothly round the bottle, securing 
 the ends, and taking care that no part of the edge is crumpled 
 
 or turned inward Next, sew another piece of rag all over the 
 
 5* 
 
64 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 outside, so as entirely to cover the lace. Make a strong lather 
 of white soap, and cold clear soft water, (filtered water is best,) 
 and put it into a large stone jar or crock, standing the bottle 
 upright in the suds. Place the crock on a hot stove or over a 
 charcoal furnace, and let it boil an hour or more. Then takb 
 out the bottle, throw away the suds, wash the jar, and fill it 
 with clear cold water in which you have mixed a table spoon- 
 ful of starch. Replace the bottle, and let it again come to a 
 boil. When you take out the bottle, remove the outside cover- 
 ing, and let the lace dry on the under linen, placing it in the 
 sun. When dry, take it off the bottle, and smooth it over with 
 a cool iron, carefully pressing out each scollop of the edge. 
 
 Some persons take the trouble to insert a little minikin pin 
 in every loop or pearling along the extreme edge of the lace, 
 fastening it to dry on a pillow. This is to keep the loops open, 
 so that the edge may look as much as possible like new lace 
 that has never been washed. 
 
 It is well to keep two bottles ready covered with linen, for 
 the purpose of washing lace ; a large bottle for broad lace, and 
 a small one for narrow. 
 
 WHITE SILK LACE OR BLOND Having sewed on 
 
 a black bottle a covering of clean linen or thick muslin, wind 
 the blond round it, (securing the ends with a needle and thread,) 
 not leaving the edge outward, but covering it as you proceed. 
 Then set the bottle upright in a strong cold lather of white 
 soap and very clear soft water, and set it in the sun, having 
 gently with your hand rubbed the suds up and down on the 
 lace. Keep it in the sun every day for a week, changing it 
 daily into a fresh lather, and always rubbing it slightly, when 
 you renew the suds. At the end of the week, take the blond 
 off the bottle, and (without rinsing) pin it backward and for- 
 
WASHING. 55 
 
 ward on a large pillow covered with a clean case put on tightly. 
 Every scollop of the blond must have a separate pin ; or more, 
 if the scollops are not very small. The plain edge must be 
 pinned down also, so as to make it straight and even. The 
 pins should be of the smallest size. Let the blond dry on the 
 pillow. When quite dry, take it off, but do not starch, iron, 
 or press it. Lay it in long loose folds, and put it away in a 
 pasteboard box. 
 
 Threaii lace may be washed in the same manner. 
 
 In France they have for the purpose of pinning out and dry- 
 ing lace, large pillows or cushions set in wooden frames, and 
 standinof on feet. Some American ladies send their blond to 
 Paris purposely to be washed, and when returned it looks as 
 if quite ne\y. 
 
 A WHITE LACE VEIL.— Make a strong lather with 
 white soap and very clear or filtered water. Put the veil into 
 it, and let it simmer slowly for a quarter of an hour. Take it out, 
 and squeeze.it well, but be sure not to rub it. Rinse it in two 
 cold waters, with a drop or two of liquid blue in the- last. 
 
 Have ready some very clear and weak gum arable water, or 
 some thin starch, or some rice water. Pass the veil through it, 
 and clear it by clapping. Then stretch it out^ even, and pin it 
 to dry on a linen cloth, making the edge as straight as possible, 
 and opening out all the scollops, fastening each with pins. 
 When dry, lay a piece of thin muslin smoothly over it_, and 
 iron it on the wrong side. 
 
 Every time you put it away, fold it differently, as lace veils 
 have been known to crack in squares from being always /oldf^d 
 the same way. 
 
 White lace sleeves may be washed in the above mannei 
 
56 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 A BLACK LACE VEIL.— Mix bullock's gall with suffi. 
 cient hot vyater to make it as warm as you can bear your hafid 
 in. Then pass the veil through it. It must be squeezed, 
 and not rubbed. It will be well to perfume the gall with a 
 little musk. Next rinse the veil through two cold waters, 
 tinging the last with indigo. Then dry it. Have ready 
 in a pan some stiffening made by pouring boiling water on a 
 very small piece of glue. Put the veil into it, squeeze it out, 
 stretch it, and clap it. Afterwards pin it out to dry on a linen 
 cloth, making it very straight and even, and taking care to open 
 and pin the edge very nicely. 
 
 When dry, iron it on the wrong side, having laid a linen cloth 
 over the ironing blanket. 
 
 Any article of black lace may be washed in this manner. 
 
 TO WASH RIBBONS, SILK HANDKERCHIEFS, &c. 
 
 — None bui ribbons of excellent quality, of one entire colour, 
 and of a plain unfigured surface, will bear washing. A good 
 satin or mantua ribbon may be made to look very well by 
 washing it carefully, first in cold water, to which add a few 
 drops of spirits of wine : then make a lather of white soap 
 ^nd lukewarm water, and wash the ribbon through that; after- 
 wards rinse it in cold water, pull it even, and dry it gradually. 
 When dry, stretch out the ribbon on an ironing-table, (securing 
 it to the cloth by pins,) and sponge it evenly all over with a 
 very weak solution of isinglass, that has been boiled in clear 
 water and strained ; or if you have no isinglass, rice-water will 
 be a tolerable substitute for restoring the stiffness and gloss. 
 To iron the ribbon, lay it within a sheet of clean smooth letter 
 paper, (the paper being both under and over it,) and press it 
 with a heated iron moved quickly. 
 
 If the colour is lilac, add a little dissolved pearlasn to the 
 
WASHING. 57 
 
 rmsing-water. If green, a little vinegar in which you havo 
 steeped a few cents. If pink, or blue, a few drops of oil of 
 vitriol. If yellow, a little tincture of saffron. Other colours 
 may be set by stirring- a tea-spoonful of ox-gall into the first 
 water. If white, a salt-spoonful of cream of tartar mixed with 
 the soap-suds. 
 
 It is seldom worth while to take the trouble of washing rib- 
 bon, unless you have a tolerable quantity to do. Unfigured 
 silk handkerchiefs and scarfs may be washed and ironed in the 
 above manner. The proportion of spirits of wine, is about a 
 table-spoonful to a gallon of water. 
 
 WHITE SILK STOCKINGS.— Soap them, and let them 
 soak all night. In the morning, wash them through a strono- 
 lather of white soap and warm soft water, and then boil them 
 ten minutes in another lather of the same. If not quite clean, 
 wash them through another w^arm suds. Then rinse them 
 through two cold waters. If you wish them a blueish white, 
 mix a drop or' two of liquid blue with the last water, and 
 let them lie in it a few minutes. Then squeeze and dry them. 
 If you wish them a pale, flesh colour, mix a very little rose- 
 pink with the last water, which should be very slightly tinged 
 with soap. When they are dry, stretch and pin them on the 
 ironing-sheet, but do not iron them, as it is best to smooth them 
 by hard rubbing with the end of a clean piece of flannel formed 
 into a tight roll. Or you may rub them with a smooth 
 stone. 
 
 Wash and smooth white silk gloves in the same manner. 
 
 If the stockings or gloves have open or lace work about them 
 and are q^nsequently of delicate texture, do not rub them in 
 washing, but merely squeeze and press them with vour 
 hands 
 
58 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 BLACK SILK STOCKINGS.— Cut some white soap into 
 thin bits, and boil it in soft water till thoroughly dissolved. 
 Then mix a little of it in cold water, adding a tea-spoonful of 
 gall. Having turned the stockings on the wrong side, 
 and rubbed a little of the boiled soap on the dirtiest places, 
 wash them well through the lukewarm suds. Repeat the 
 washing, in fresh suds and water, till they are quite clean. 
 Then rinse them through two cold waters, adding to the last 
 a little blue from the indigo bag. Then squeetze them well, 
 stretch them even, and hang them out immediately. While 
 still damp, turn them right side^out, stretch and pin them on 
 an ironing blanket, and with the end of a bit of rolled up flan- 
 nel, or a smooth stone, rub them hard and quick one way, till 
 they are quite dry, and look smooth and glossy. This is bet- 
 ter than to iron them, which always gives silk stockings an 
 old appearance. 
 
 Black silk gloves may be washed as above ; if they have 
 open work, do them with great care. 
 
 TO TINGE SILK STOCKINGS A PALE PINK.— The 
 
 stockings of course must be originally white or flesh-coloured. 
 Previous to dyeing, wash them in the usual manner, in two 
 lathers of warm water and white soap, squeezing and pressing 
 rather than rubbing them. Rinse them through two cold 
 waters, and then stretch and dry them. Before you put them 
 into the dye, steep them in cold water and squeeze the water 
 out. They must go into the dye wet. 
 
 To make the dye, gather a large tea-cupful of the fresh 
 flowers or blossoms of the bergamot plant. Put them into a 
 china bowl, press them down hard, and pour on sufficient boil- 
 ing watei to cover them. Then cover the bowl closely with a 
 piaie. and let the bergamot stand an hour or more to infuse. 
 
WASHING. 59 
 
 Wh^n the liquid is well coloured, strain it, dilute it with cold 
 water to the desired shade, and add five or six drops of oil of 
 vitriol to set the colour. Then take the stockings, one at a 
 time, immerse them thoroughly and evenly in the dye, and 
 squeeze them through it. Afterwards, when all the liquid is 
 squeezed out, open and stretch them well, and hang them up 
 in the shade. While stjU a little damp, pin them, well-stretched, 
 upon the ironing-cloth, (they must be right side out,) and rub 
 them till quite dry with the end of a clean flannel formed into 
 a tight roll, or with a smooth stone. This will give them an 
 appearance of newness, which they will not have if ironed 
 in the usual way. 
 
 Instead of oil of vitriol, you may set the colour with a tea- 
 spoonful of cider vinegar. 
 
 WHITE FRENCH THREAD GLOVES AND STOCK- 
 INGS.— These articles are so delicate as to require great care 
 ■'in washing, and they must on no account be rubbed. Make a 
 lather of white soap and cold water, and put it into a saucepan. 
 Soap the gloves or stockings well, put them in, and set the 
 saucepan over the fire. When they have come to a hard boil, 
 take them off; and when cool enough for your hand, squeeze 
 them in the water. Having prepared a fresh cold lather, boil 
 them again in that. Then take the pan off the fire, and as soon 
 as the water is cool enough for you to bear your hand in it, 
 squeeze them well again. Then rinse them through two cold 
 waters, stretch, dry, and iron them on the wrong side. 
 
 It is well to soap tiiem a little over night, and lay them to 
 soak in cold water till next day. 
 
 UNBLEACHED STOCKINGS AND GLOVES.— If 
 
 ihe brownish colour of unbleached cotton or thread stockinors 
 
60 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 is allowed to fade, they will look like very dirty white, which 
 is by no means desirable. After washing and rinsing them in 
 the usual manner, squeeze and open them out. Strain into a 
 basin some cold coffee, (any that has been left at breakfast will 
 do,) and "when the stockings have been squeezed and opened 
 out from the rinsing water, put them wet into the coffee, and 
 work them about in it, till they have, thoroughly taken the 
 colour. Then squeeze them out, and dry them in the shade. 
 Iron them on the wrong side. They will look as if new. 
 
 If you have not much coffee, you need only immerse the 
 feet of the stockings in it, and the leg as far up as the calf. 
 With strong coffee you may make them a beautiful light brown 
 colour. The coffee must be very clear. 
 
 WASH-LEATHER GLOVES.— Gloves of what is called 
 wash-leather, should first have the grease-spots taken out, by 
 rubbing on them either magnesia, cream of tartar, or Wilming- 
 ton clay scraped to powder. Then make a lather of white 
 soap and lukewarm water; (hot water will shrink them;) 
 wash and squeeze them through this : and then squeeze them 
 through a second suds. Rinse them first in lukewarm water, 
 and then in cold, and stretch them to dry before the fire or in 
 the sun. 
 
 AJVOTHER WAY. — Having removed the grease-spots, 
 you may wash the gloves (one at a time on your hands) by 
 rubbing them with a clean sponge wet with lukewarm soap- 
 suds. Then wash off the suds with another sponge dipped in 
 clear water. Afterwards pull and stretch them well, and hang 
 them to dry before the fire or in the hot sun. When almost 
 dry, put them again on your hands, and keep them there till 
 quite dry, v^'hich will prevent them from shrinking. 
 
WASHING. 61 
 
 COLOURED KID OR HOSKIN GLOVES. —Have 
 ready on a table a clean towel folded three or four times, a 
 saucer of new milk, and another saucer with a piece of brown 
 soap. Take one glove at a time, and spread it smoothly on the 
 folded towel. Then dip in the milk a piece of clean flannel, 
 rub it on the soap till you get off a tolerable quantity, and 
 then with the wet flannel commence rubbing the glove. Begin 
 at the wrist, and rub lengthways towards the end*of the fingers, 
 holding the glove firmly in your left hand. Continue this 
 process till the glove is well cleaned all over with the milk and 
 soap. When done, spread them out, and pin them on a line 
 to dry gradually. -When nearly dry, pull them out evenly, 
 the cross-way of the leather. When quite dry, stretch them 
 on your hands. 
 
 White kid gloves may be washed in this manner, provided 
 they have never been cleaned with India rubber. 
 
 In mending the seam of a kid glove that has been ripped, 
 always sew it backwards ; otherwise, it will stretch out of 
 shape. 
 
 WHITE KID GLOVES.— -Stretch the gloves on a clean 
 board, and rub all the soiled or grease-spots with cream of 
 tartar or magnesia. Let them rest an hour. Then have ready 
 a mixture of alum and fuller's earth, (both powdered,) and rub 
 it all over the gloves w^ith a brush, (a clean tooth-brush or 
 something similar,) and let them rest for an hour or two. 
 TWien sweep it all off, and go over them with a flannel dipped 
 in a mixture of bran and finely powdered whiting. Let them 
 rest another hour; then brush off the powder, and you will 
 find them cleap. 
 
 On no consideration clean gloves with turpentine, as you 
 will be unable to wear them on account of the smell. Turpen- 
 
 6 
 
62 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 tine should never be applied to any article that cannot be 
 thoroughly .washed before it is used. 
 
 Leather of the natural colour (a saddle, for instance) may be 
 cleaned by means of oxalic acid dissolved in vi^ater, and 
 rubbed on with a sponge, washing it off immediately. 
 
 GENTLEMEN'S WHITE LEATHER GLOVES —A 
 
 gentleman may clean his white leather gloves to look very 
 well by putting them one at a time on his hands, after he has 
 done shaving, and going over them thoroughly with his shave- 
 brush and lather; then wiping them off with a soft clean 
 handkerchief or sponge, and drying them on his hands by the 
 fire; or hanging them before the fire or in the hot sun; and, 
 while still damp, putting them on his hands till quite dry, to 
 prevent their shrinking. 
 
 TO SHRINK WIDE BOBBINET.— It is best to shrink 
 new bobbinet before it is cut out; otherwise it will be neces- 
 sary to make the cap or collar too large at first, lest it should 
 become too small by shrinking after being washed. Dip the 
 piece of bobbinet into a pan of cold water, and take it out 
 immediately. Squeeze it hard with your hands till the mois- 
 ture ceases to drip from it ; then open and stretch it, till you 
 get it as straight and even as possible. Afterwards, fold it 
 up, and lay it between the folds of a clean fine towel. By the 
 time you have heated an iron, the bobbinet will be in a stale to 
 smooth over. Try the iron first on some other thin thing : ftr 
 if the least too hot, it will discolour the bobbinet. 
 
 If sprigged, iron it on the wrong side. 
 
 % 
 
 TO SHRINK COTTON CORD.— Cord intended for a 
 chintz or muslin dress, should be shrunk before it is used. 
 
WASHING. 63 
 
 Otherwise, it will, after washing, contract in its coverings and 
 })ucker the seams, bands, &c., by shrinking more in proportion 
 than the materials of which the dress is made. To prevent 
 this, open or unwind the hank of new cord, and having laid it 
 loosely in a bowl, pour on a sufficiency of boiling water. Let 
 it set in the scald till the water becomes cold ; then take out 
 the cord, squeeze it hard, and spread it to dry. When quite 
 dry, wind it on a card, and it will be ready for use. 
 
 A SWAN'S-DOWN CAPE OR TIPPET.— Make a 
 
 strong lather of the best white soap and lukewarm water ; hot 
 water will shrink the skin of the swan's-down. Work and 
 squeeze the swan's-down through the suds, but do not rub it. 
 Then do the same through a second lukewarm suds, and per- 
 sist till you see that the article looks clean and white. After- 
 wards rinse it through two waters, (the first lukewarm, the 
 second cold,) squeezing it carefully. Then shake it out and 
 dry it in the sun or by the fire, holding it in your hands and 
 shaking it all the time, to prevent its looking matted or in 
 tufts. You may wash a swan's-down bonnet in this manner ; 
 first removing the lining. 
 
 Marabout or down feathers may be washed in a similar way. 
 
 When but little soiled, you may clean swan's-down in the 
 following manner, without washing it. Powder some plaster 
 of Paris. as finely as possible, sift it through a fine sieve, and 
 then heat it over the fire. When the powder is quite warm, 
 but not burning hot, lay the swan's-down in a large clean 
 metal pan, (heated also,) and sift the powder over it through a 
 sieve, turning the swan's-down about, and seeing that the 
 powder is dispersed well through it. Repeat the process till 
 the swan's-down looks very white. Then take it out and shake 
 cflf the loose powder 
 
64 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 CLEANING MARABOUT OR DOWN FEATHERS 
 
 ■^Make a strong lather of fine white soap, and soft lukewarm 
 water. If the water is not perfectly clear, it must be filtered. 
 Take the feathers separately, and immerse them in the suds 
 till they are quite full of it. Then wash them, one at a time, 
 by drawing them through your hand ; changing the water 
 ■when necessary, till the last suds remains quite clean, and the 
 feathers look perfectly white and nice. Have ready some 
 moderately stiff, and exceedingly smooth starch, made with 
 cold water, and a very little blue from the indigo bag squeezed 
 into it. This starch must not be boiled. Pass the feathers 
 separately through it, and then drain them well. Next, take 
 them, one at a time, in your hands, and shake them out in the 
 sun and air ; continuing to shake till they are quite dry. A 
 bright windy day is best for this purpose. 
 
 If dried by the fire, they will not be so good a white. 
 
 Ostrich feathers may be cleaned in the same manner. To 
 curl them, hold them near the fire while damp, and if you 
 have not the proper instrument, (a long sort of bodkin made 
 for the purpose,) you can substitute a pair, of dull scissors. 
 Take each fibre of the feather separately between the points 
 of the scissors, and give it a twitch or turn inwards, holding 
 it in that position a moment, to give it the proper set. 
 
 Black feathers, when straightened by damp weather, may 
 be curled in the above manner. 
 
 White feathers should never be worn when the weather is 
 damp. 
 
 WASHING BED FEATHERS.— New bed feathers, in 
 consequence of retaining the animal oil, are damp, heavy, and 
 have a peculiar smell. To remedy this inconvenience, tliey 
 flhcuid, before they are used, have a thorough cleansing in lime- 
 
WASHING. 65 
 
 water; but it' this has not been effectually done, they must be 
 taken out of the ticks, and subjected to the proper process, as 
 it is not only disagreeable, but unwholesome to sleep on them 
 in their oily state. 
 
 Prepare some lime-water, in the proportion of half a pound 
 of quick-lime to a gallon of soft water. Put it into a tub or 
 tubs, and having stirred it well, let it stand all night; then 
 pour off, for use, all the lime-water that is perfectly clear : the 
 lime having settled to the bottom. Put the feathers into a 
 large deep tub, and pour on as much lime-water as will cover 
 them about three or four inches, after they have been well 
 immersed, and stirred about in it with a stick. When they 
 have stood two days, and been frequently stirred, pour off the 
 lime-water, and replace it with a new supply. Let them stand 
 two days longer, still stirring them at times. Afterwards, take 
 them out, (squeezing the. dirty water from them,) and wash 
 them well in a tub of clean water without lime. Then ■squeeze - 
 them out, a handful at a time, and spread them to drain on 
 sieves. The best way of drying them, is by suspending them, 
 exposed to the sun and air, in nets whose meshes are about 
 the size of those of cabbage-nets. Shake them frequently in 
 the nets, and collect all the feathers that fall through the 
 meshes. They must always be brought in doors when the 
 weather is damp, and may take about three weeks to dry 
 thoroughly. If you have no nets, spread them on the floor of 
 an empty garret or loft ; stirring and turning them frequently, 
 and picking out the hard quills and stripping the down from 
 them. 
 
 "When they are all clean and dry, put them into large coarse 
 bags in the form of a tick ; lay them on a floor, and beat them 
 on all sides with long sticks like broom" handles, till the 
 feathers are perfectly light and lively. 
 
66 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 Old feathers may be greatly improved by emptying the ticK, 
 (which should also be washed,) and washing them throiign 
 several lathers of strong soap-suds. Rinse them well in cold 
 water, drain them on sieves, and spread them to dry as above 
 on the floor of an empty garret. Their drying may be accele- 
 rated by sewing them in a coarse sheet, and putting them into 
 the oven on a baking-day, after the bread is drawn, and letting 
 them remain there till next morning. This should be several 
 times repeated. Then put them into bags and beat them. 
 
 Fresh feathers that have been newly plycked from the geese, 
 should be laid loosely in large baskets, placed in the garret, 
 and stirred very frequently. 
 
 The smell of new feathers in a bed or pillows, may be some- 
 what remedied, by ripping the seams in a few places, and 
 putting in lumps of camphor; afterwards sewing them up 
 again immediately. 
 
 In the middle states the usual time for picking geese is in 
 August, as at that season they moult or shed their small fea- 
 thers, which, if allowed to drop about of themselves, will be 
 lost or wasted. The person that performs this business should 
 put on a coarse tow apron, and holding the goose on her lap, 
 with one band should carefully pick out all the small loose 
 feathers with the other, and put them into a large basket or tub 
 placed beside her for the purpose. Geese-picking is generally 
 done in a porch or out-house; but a dry, warm, calm day 
 should be chosen for it, that the feathers may not be blown 
 about by the wind. Let it not be done if the weather is damp or 
 cool, as the geese may catch cold from the loss of their feathers. 
 
 RENEWING MATTRASSES.— When mattrasses have 
 been long in use;' the hair or wool with which they are stuffed 
 becomes clodded or knotted in lumps, making it impossible to 
 
CLEANING ARTICLES OF DRESS, ETC. 67 
 
 Sleep on them with any degree of comfort. They should then 
 be carried into a spare garret or out-house, and taken to pieces. 
 The stuffing should be carefully picked apart by hand till it 
 becomes thoroughly loose and open, throwing it, as it is done, 
 into large baskets. Afterwards a new tick should be made, 
 and filled with the stuffing ; as the old one will scarcely be 
 worth using again for the same purpose ; but it may be washed 
 and converted into floor-cloths, &c. 
 
 When the new tick is filled, stitch it through with pack- 
 thread or fine twine, and a long mattrass needle, (which 
 may be procured at a hardware store,) securing every stitch 
 with a little bit of buckskin run on the needle. 
 
 Hair mattrasses are much better than those of wool, which 
 are not sufficiently cool for summer. 
 
 Mattrasses will generally require taking apart and picking 
 about once in three years, if they are in continual use. 
 
 ^traw mattrasses should be occasionally emptied and filled 
 with fresh straw. When straw becomes old, it has a musty 
 smell, which makes the mattrass unwholesome to sleep on ; 
 also, it will produce fleas. 
 
 TO CLEAN A STRAW OR LEGHORN BoNlNfiT.— 
 
 Having separated the crown from the brim and the cape or 
 neck-piece, and removed the lining and wire, the next thing 
 is to take out whatever stains may be found in the bonnet, the 
 crown of which should be put on a wooden block. For grease, 
 rub on with your finger some powdered Wilmington clay, or 
 a little magnesia ; and in an hour or two brush it off, and renew 
 the application, if necessary. For other stains use either 
 cream of tartar or salt of sorrel, put on a little wet. If salt 
 of sorrel, it must be washed off again almost immediately, lest 
 it injure the straw by remaining on it. Afterwards (keeping 
 
68 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 the crown still on the bonnet-block) go over the whole surface 
 of the bonnet with a brush dipped in a weak solution of pearl- 
 ash in lukewarm water, (a tea-spoonful to a quart.) Then 
 scour it off at once, with a strong lather of brown soap and 
 cold water, put on with a clean brush. When all the bonnet 
 is well cleaned, rinse it in cold water, and hang it in the sun 
 to dry. Bonnet cleaning should never be undertaken in damp 
 weather. When the bonnet is perfectly dry, you may proceed 
 to whiten it. Fill a chafing dish or portable furnace with burn- 
 ing charcoal ; carry it into a small close room or into an empty 
 press or closet, and by a line suspended across, hang the bon- 
 net over the charcoal, at a safe distance, so that it will be in no 
 danger of scorching. Then strew over the coals an ounce ojr^ 
 two of powdered brimstone, and immediately go out and shut 
 the door, seeing that no air whatever can get into the room. 
 After the bonnet has hung in the vapour six or seven hours, 
 throw open the door, (having first left open an outside door or 
 window, so as to admit immediately the fresh air,) and go into 
 the room as soon as you find you can do so without incon- 
 venience from the fumes of the charcoal and sulphur. Then 
 bring out the bonnet, and hang it in the open air till the smell 
 of the brimstone has entirely left it. If the day is windy, so 
 much the better ; but the bonnet must on no account be hung 
 out if the weather is damp, and it must be brought in before 
 sunset. If it is not sulRciently white, repeat next day the 
 process of bleaching it with charcoal and brimstone. 
 
 The next thing is to stifien the bonnet. To make the stiffen 
 ing, boil in two quarts of soft water, a quarter of a pound of 
 vellum shavings, (the vellum of buflfalo's hide is best,) filling 
 it up occasionally, if it seems to be boiling too dry. It mr5t 
 boil or simmer slowly for six or seven hours. Then, when you 
 take it from the fire, let it stand a while to settle ; after whicli. 
 
CLEANING ARTICLES OF DRESS, ETC. 69 
 
 pour it off into a basin, and it will become a thick jelly. To 
 the sediment eft in the pot, you may add a second two quarts 
 of water; and after a second boiling-, it will form another jelly 
 or sizing, strong enough for similar purposes. When you are 
 going to use it for a bonnet, melt up a pint of this jelly, and 
 mix with it a small half-tea-spoonful of oxalic acid, (not more 
 or it will injure the straw,) and then with a clean sponge or 
 brush go all over the bonnet, inside and out, with the sizing. 
 Dry the bonnet; and when quite dry, go over it again with a 
 second wash of the stiffening. Dry it again, and then spread 
 over it a wet piece of jaconet muslin ; or damp the bonnet all 
 over with a sponge and lukewarm water, and then cover it with 
 ja fine white handkerchief, while you press it hard and evenly 
 with a warm box-iron, exerting all your strength. The crown 
 must be pressed while on the bonnet-block ; the brim may be 
 done on an ironing-table. Afterwards expose the bonnet to the 
 air, till it becomes perfectly dry ; and next day it wall be ready 
 for putting together, lining, and trimming; first mending what- 
 ever defective places may be found in it. 
 
 The front of a bonnet will keep its shape much better if the 
 wire is thick and stout. In lining a bonnet, the best way for 
 a novice in the art, is to pin a large sheet of thin soft paper on 
 the outside of the brim, and (having fitted it smoothly) cut it 
 of the proper shape and size, allowing a little for turning in at 
 the edge. Then pin the paper into the inside of the brim, and 
 if it fits perfectly smooth, cut out the silk lining by it. A piece 
 of oiled silk sewed all round the inside of the crown, at the 
 joining place, and extending down a little upon the the brim, 
 will prevent the stain from perspiration, that so freauently 
 disfigures that part of a bonnet. 
 
 Without a regular cleaning in the preceding manner, a dis- 
 coloured straw bonnet may be improved in appearance, if 
 
70 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 pre-ious to putting on a fresh trimming, you stretch the bonnet 
 on a block, (or something- that will answer the purpose,) and 
 go all over it with a sponge dipped in lukewarm water, in 
 which has been dissolved pearl-ash, in the proportion of a 
 small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash to a pint of water ; afterwards 
 rinsing it off, wiping it hard with a flannel, and drying it well. 
 Next, go over it with a clean sponge dipped in strong rice-water, 
 which will be the better for having dissolved in it a half- tea- 
 spoonful of sugar of lead. Then dry the bonnet, and having 
 damped it all over with a wet sponge, cover it with thin mus- 
 lin, and press it hard with a heavy and moderately warm iron. 
 
 TO TAKE CARE OF BEAVER HATS— A hat should 
 be brushed every day with a hat-brush ; and twice a day in 
 dusty weather. When a hat gets wet, wipe it as dry as you 
 can with a clean handkerchief, and then brush it with a soft 
 brush, before you put it to dry. When nearly dry, go over it 
 with a harder brush. If it still looks rough, damp it with a 
 sponge dipped in vinegar or stale beer, and brush it with a 
 hard brush till dry. 
 
 A good beaver hat should always, when not in constant use, 
 be kept in a hat-box, with a hat-stick extended inside of the 
 crown 
 
 TO CLEAN GOLD ORNAMENTS.— For chains, ear- 
 rings, and other articles of gold jewelry, make a lather of fine 
 white soap and warm water, adding to it from ten to twenty 
 drops of hartshorn. Wash the articles in this with a clean 
 sponge, and (if very much tarnished) boil them in it for five 
 or six minutes. Have ready a deep plate of magnesia powder, 
 *hat has been heated before the fire. Lnmediately on taking 
 he articles out of the suds, lay them in the warm magnesia, 
 
CLEANING ARTICLES OF DRESS. 71 
 
 and let them remain in it till they are quite dry. Then rub them 
 brig-ht with a fine soft flannel ; using a very small soft brush foi 
 the parts that are chased or embossed. If there are. stones in the 
 jewels they must not be washed or boiled, but simply rubbed 
 with the magnesia and flannel. 
 
 CLEANING PEARLS.— If allowed to get wet, pearls 
 soon become dull and discoloured. Pearl rings (and all rings 
 that have stones in them) should always be taken off the fin- 
 gers when the hands are washed, and not resumed till they are 
 perfectly dry. The beauty of jewelry is also injured if worn 
 in warm weather, when the skin perspires. Pearls should be 
 frequently brightened by rubbing them carefully with a bit of 
 white pin-paper made into a little roll, and using the point or 
 end of the roll. 
 
 TO CLEAN AND MEND TORTOISE-SHELL.— When 
 
 tortoise-shell looks dull, its lustre may be revived and a fine 
 polish given to it, by first washing it clean in soap-suds, and 
 then, after wiping it perfectly dry, rubbing it with sweet oil, 
 mixed with rotten-stone finely powdered and sifted through 
 thin muslin. Let it rest an hour ; then wipe off the rotten- 
 stone ; cover the tortoise-shell with magnesia powder, and 
 after a while, finish with a silk handkerchief. It will look as 
 well as new, if, instead of the magnesia, you rub on a very 
 little of the reddish brown powder that the silversmiths call 
 rouge. 
 
 To repair a tortoise-shell comb from which a tooth has been 
 broken, have ready a new tooth rather longer than the old 
 one, (and having wet it with water,) soften the upper or 
 broadest end of the new tooth by holding it in a pair of hot 
 pincers. The part of the comb from which the old tooth was 
 
73 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 broken must be wet and softened in the same way. Then lay li»e 
 vacant part of the comb and the broad end of the new tooth to- 
 gether wnile soft, (one over the other,) and pinch or squeeze 
 thom with the pincers to unite them smoothly. When cold, the 
 new tooth will be found firmly welded in its place. 
 
 This is a very nice operation, but can be performed in such 
 a manner that the join is quite imperceptible. If in a city, it 
 is best to have it done by a comb-maker. As it shows no ap- 
 pearance of ever having been broken, it is of course very su- 
 perior to the old-fashioned method of mending a comb with a 
 silver rivet. There must be no grease about it. 
 
 TO CLEAN HEAD AND CLOTHES BRUSHES.— 
 Put a table-spoonful of pearl-ash into a pint of boiling water. 
 Having fastened a bit of sponge to the end of a stick, dip it 
 into the solution, and wash the brush with it; carefully going 
 in among the bristles. Next pour over it some clean hot water, 
 and let it lie a little while. Then drain it, wipe it with a cloth, 
 and dry it before the fire. 
 
 TO CLEAN COMBS.— Tie one end of a strong silk 
 thread to the handle of a wash-stand or bureau drawer. Sit 
 down before it with a towel spread on your lap, and holding 
 the other end of the silk tightly in your left hand, take the 
 comb in your right and pass it hard and carefully along the 
 thread, which must be made to go in between all the teeth 
 separately, so as to remove or scrape down all the impLi'sties 
 Then ruo tne comb with a comb-brush, or a soft cloth; rinse 
 't in warm soap-suds, and wipe it dry. 
 
 CLEANING BOOTS AND SHOES.— First with your 
 hard brush remove all the dirt. When they are perfectly 
 
CLEANING ARTICLES OF DRESS, ETC. 73 
 
 clean, stir up the blacking with a stick, put a little on your 
 blacking-brush, and spread it lightly and evenly over the 
 boots or shoes ; then, with your polishing brush go quickly 
 and lightly over them, and in a few minutes they will have 
 a fine polish. When done, if you find any brown spots, (which 
 will happen if the blacking has not been put on evenly,) go 
 ightly oves the dull places a second time with your blacking- 
 irush. 
 
 You must have three brushes for cleaning boots and shoes ; 
 and your blacking should always baof the best kind. 
 
 TO MAKE FINE BLACKING— For this you must have 
 one quart of sour beer or porter, (the latter is best:) eight 
 ounces of ivory black : three ounces of molasses : one ounce of 
 powdered sugar-candy, or of loaf-sugar : half^an ounce of pow- 
 dered gum arable : half an ounce of oil of vitriol ; and one ounce 
 of sweet oil. Having warmed the beer, dissolve in it the gum 
 arable, mix the molasses with the vitriol and sweet oil, (the 
 vitriol is to give the polishing quality, and the oil is to prevent 
 the vitriol from injuring the leather,) add by degrees the ivory 
 black : rubbing the mixture smoothly together, and seeing that 
 no lumps are left in it. Then pour all the ingredients into a 
 jar. Stir them hard, and let the mixture stand three days, 
 stirring it with a round stick thfee Or four times each day. It 
 will then be fit for use. If you find it too thick, (so that it 
 will not be sufficiently liquid even when warmed at the fire,) 
 add a little more beer. Put it into bottles, and cork it tightly 
 
 BLACKING THAT WILL PRESERVE THE LEA- 
 THER. — Mix together four ounces of spermaceti oil and 
 twelve ounces of molasses. Add by degrees twelve ounces 
 jf ivory black, mixing it in smoothly, and rubbing it well, sv> 
 
74 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 as to leave no lumps • then dilute it gradually with a quart of 
 the best white wine vinegar. If you find it too thick, add 
 more vinegar ; stir it hard, and let it stand in the jar three 
 days, stirring it frequently with a round stick; then bottle it 
 •for use. If still too thick, even when warmed at the fire, 
 dilute it by stirring in a little more vinegar. 
 
 FRENCH POLISH FOR BOOTS, SHOES, AND HAR- 
 NESS. — Mix together two pints of the best vinegar, and one 
 pint of soft water ; stir into it a quarter of a pound of glue 
 broken up : half a pound of logwood chips : a quarter of an ounce 
 of finely powdered indigo : a quarter of an ounce of the best 
 soft soap : and a quarter of an ounce of isinglass. Put the 
 mixture over the fire, and after it comes to a boil continue the 
 boiling for ten minutes or more. Then strain the liquid, and 
 bottle and cork it. When cold it is fit for use. 
 
 Before you apply this polish to boots, shoes, &c., remove 
 the dirt with a sponge and water. Then put on the polish 
 with a clean sponge. Should you find it too thick, hold it near 
 the fire to warm a little, and the heat will liquefy it suf- 
 ficiently. 
 
 WASH FOR W^HITE BOOT TOPS.— Mix together one 
 ounce of oxalic acid: two dunces of finely powdered and sifted 
 l»umice-stone : and two tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar. Stir 
 them into a quart of soft water. Apply it to the light-coloured 
 tops of riding-boots, to prevent their turning brownish. Hav- 
 ing first brushed off all the dust and dirt from the leather, rub 
 on the mixture with a clean hard brush. Then sponge it well 
 with cold water, all one way, and put the boots to dry gradu- 
 ally in the sun, or at a good distance from the fire. This 
 preparation may be used also for leather saddles. 
 
CLEANING ARTICLES OF DRESS, ETC. 75 
 
 BRUSHING AND FOLDING A .COAT.— A gentle- 
 man's coat cannot be conveniently freed from dust without a 
 coat-horse, on which to hang and extend it. It should be 
 whipped hcird with a rattan, taking care not to strike the but- 
 tons, lest they be scratched or broken. If the coat is wet or 
 muddy, hang it to dry in the sun or by the fire, before you 
 attempt to heat or brush it. "When perfectly dry, take the cloth 
 between your hand and rub off the mud-spots before you put it 
 on the coat-horse. 
 
 After it has been well beaten with the rattan, spread the 
 coat at its full length on a table, the back being uppermost. 
 Take the collar in your left hand and a clothes-brush in your 
 right, and first brush the back of the collar: then between the 
 shoulders : then the sleeves and cuffs : then the farthest lappcl 
 and skirt ; and then the near one, always brushing according to 
 the nap of the cloth, as'tt runs towards the skirts. 
 
 To fold a coa/.— Having spread it, as before, on a table, 
 double the left sleeve from the elbow towards the collar: the 
 other the same way : then the left lappel over the sleeve as far 
 as the back seam, and the other in the same manner. Next 
 turn up the left skirt so that the end may touch the collar : do 
 the same with the right skirt. Give it a light brushing all 
 over : and then turn one-half the coat exactly even over the 
 other half. Folded in this manner, the coat may be put into a 
 trunk, and will keep smooth during a journey of any length. 
 
 TO FOLD A LADY'S DRESS.— Place the dress upon a 
 bed, spreading it out wide and smooth, with the back part 
 uppermost, and laying the hem even at the bottom. Take the 
 two o^ter sides of the skirt, and fold them over, so as to make 
 them rather more than meet: lapping over down the middle of 
 the back-breadth. Then place your left hand and arm under 
 
76 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 the folded skirt, and. with your right hand double it somewhat 
 more than a quarter of a yard underneath the dress ; and next fold 
 forwards (so as to lie above it) the upper -part of the skirt where 
 the gathers join the body ; leaving the back uppermost. Then 
 turn back the sleeves, and if they are long, fold them inwards 
 from the elbow ; letting them rest on the back of the body, 
 the cuffs crossing each other. Finally, take all at once, in your 
 left hand, that part of the folded dress where the cuifs, neck, 
 and upper fold of the skirt come together and lie on each other; 
 and lifting it up carefully, let fall from under it the lower part 
 of the skirt that has been turned up underneath. When the 
 tail has thus fallen, spread it up over the whole, smoothly and 
 evenly, to preserve the body and sleeves from being crushed. 
 The dress may then be laid in a drawer or packed in a 
 trunk, without any danger of tumbling. It may be made to fit 
 into a narrower space by lapping the sides of the skirt still 
 more over each other, when they are folded upon, the middle of 
 the back-breadth. 
 
 After folding a dress of white satin or white silk, pin or sew 
 it up closely in two large sheets of thick brown paper, one 
 below, and one above. The turpentine used in the composi- 
 tion of this paper will tend to preserve the whiteness of the 
 satin. You may place a blue paper between the satin and the 
 brown. 
 
 In putting away dresses in a press or commode, hang each 
 dress on two hooks or pegs, suspending them (back outwards) 
 by two loops of tape sewed to the two shoulder-seams inside. 
 
 When travelling, it is well to carry in your trunk a large 
 curtain of check, brown linen, or thick calico, with a drawing 
 string run through a case at the top. By means of this, you 
 can cover your dresses and screen them from dust when you 
 are obliged to hang them up against the wall of your chanibe/ 
 
CLEANING ARTICLES OF DRESS, ETC. 77 
 
 TO FOLD A LADY'S CLOAK.— In makitig a cloak, it 
 is best to have the cape so finished at the neck, that it can 
 easily be taken off when preparing to put it away for the sum- 
 mer, or to pack it for travelling ; otherwise it will be impossi- 
 ble to prevent its getting rumpled. 
 
 Having taken off the cape, spread the cloak (right side out) 
 on a bed, and fold it lengthways all down the back-breadtli ; 
 first in half, and then laying it over so as to make it four 
 double. Next put your left hand and arm under the whole of 
 the lower part, and with your right hand turn it up about one- 
 third of the length of the cloak. Then double the middle back- 
 ward, and the upper part forward, so as to make three equal 
 crossway folds, (all of course four double,) leaving the gather- 
 ed or neck part uppermost, and the collar out at the top. 
 Next turn back the collar, (still doubled lengthways,) and 
 let it rest on the upper, or gathered part of the cloak. 
 
 Take the cape (right side out) and fold it lengthways ; 
 first in half, and then four double. Next, turn it backward, 
 (crossways,) letting the upper or gathered half rest on the 
 lower. Then lay tlie cape on the top of the cloak ; and folded 
 in this manner the whole will keep perfectly smooth. 
 
 In putting away for the summer a merino or cloth cloak, 
 strew between its folds an ounce or two of camphor, broken 
 into small bits; and pin it closely up in a large linen cloth. 
 
 A strong loop of galloon or doubled ribbon, large enough to 
 go over' a peg or hook, should always be sewed firmly under 
 the back of the collar, exactly behind, for the purpose of hang- 
 ing up the cloak when in daily use. Two loops will be bet« 
 ter than one. They should be far apart ; one inside of each 
 shoulder. 
 
78 
 
 REMOVING STAINS, GREASE, &c. 
 
 TO RExMOVE STAINS OF WINE OR FRUIT FROM 
 TABLE LINEN. — A wine stain may sometimes be removed 
 by rubbing it (while wet) with common salt. It is said, also, 
 that sherry wine poured immediately on a place where port 
 wine has been spilled, will prevent its leaving a stain. A cer- 
 lain w iy of extracting fruit or wine stains from table-linen is 
 to tie up some cream of tartar in the stained part, (so as to form 
 a sort of bag,) and then to put the linen into a lather of soap 
 and cold water, and boil it a while. Then transfer it wet to a 
 lukewarm suds, wash and rinse it well, and dry and iron it. The 
 stains will disappear during the process. 
 
 Another way, is to mix, in equal quantities, soft soap, slacked 
 lime, and pearl-ash. Rub the stain with this preparation, and 
 expose the linen to the sun with the mixture plastered on it. 
 If necessary, repeat the application. As soon as the stain has 
 disappeared, wash out the linen immediately, as it will be 
 injured if the mixture is left in it. 
 
 A small stain will sometimes disappear by wetting the spot 
 with cold water, and holding over it, at a safe distance, a lighted 
 brimstone match. It may be necessary to repeat it with a 
 second and third match. 
 
 You may also remove a small stain, by stretching that part 
 of the linen over the top of a mug of hot water, and rubbing 
 on with your finger, some oxalic acid or some cream of tartar, 
 or the mixture of both that is sold as salt of lemon. Then 
 wash it out immediately. 
 
 Some stains will disappear by wetting them with warm 
 water, and rubbing on magnesia. 
 
STAINS, OKE ASE, ETC. 79 
 
 rO REMOVE FRUIT STAINS FROM SILK.— The 
 
 slain of sweetmeats or syrup may generally be removed from 
 silk or merino with very little trouble if done immediately. It 
 is merely to wipe the spot with the corner of a soft clean linen 
 (an old napkin or a handkerchief) dipped in cold water; re- 
 peating it till the stain* is erased, and taking care not to rub 
 crossways of the stuff, lest you should fray it. The sugar in 
 sweetmeats neutralizes the acid, and causes the stain to come 
 out more easily than that of raw fruit. We know an instance 
 when, by a strange accident, the crown of a Leghorn hat was 
 covered with the syrup of preserved plumbs. By wiping it, 
 immediately, with a clean wet napkin, not the slightest stain 
 was left. 
 
 Fruit stains on silk may sometimes be removed, by wetting 
 them with hartshorn diluted with a little water, repeating the 
 application several times. When it fails, it is owing to some 
 peculiarity in the dye of the silk, but it is always worth a triai. 
 It will generally take off the reddish marks left on blue-black 
 silks, by wine, tea, or lemonade. If the hartshorn, does not 
 succeed, and the silk is black, nothing better can be done than 
 to cover these red marks with ink laid on with a large camel's 
 hair brush. 
 
 TO RESTORE BLACK SILK SLEEVES.— When the 
 sleeves of a black silk dress have been stained by perspiration 
 m warm weather, mix in a large cup, equal quantities of strong 
 spirits of hartshorn, and soft water. Dip a clean sponge into 
 this liquid, and with it go carefully over the sleeves, first 
 spreading them out on a table. Then dry them ; and if the 
 colour is not restored, repeat the process, making the mixture 
 a little stronger of hartshorn. Afterwards iron them. 
 
 This application of hartshorn and water will generally 
 
50 T H E II O U S E B O K. 
 
 remove the reddish stains by which black silk sleeves are so 
 frequently disfigured in summer; and will much improve their 
 appearance, even if it does not restore them exactly to the 
 original black. 
 
 If you can take the sleeves out of the dress, or indeed rip 
 ^em all apart, you w-'ill be able to s'ponge them with much 
 jonvenience and efficacy. 
 
 This application will frequently remove stains of tea, lemon- 
 juice, &c., from coloured silks. 
 
 What is called blue-black silk, is much more liable to stain 
 than that which is jet-black. India silks rarely stain at all. 
 
 TO EXTRACT GREASE FROM A SILK OR WORS- 
 TED DRESS. — Small grease-spots on a dress that cannot be 
 washed, may frequently be removed by tbe immediate applica- 
 tion of the corner of a jfine napkin, wetted in cold water, and 
 rubbed on the straightway of the texture; changing several 
 times to a clean corner dipped in fresh water. This also, if 
 done immediately, will frequently take out the stain of sweet- 
 meats or any very sweet thing dropped on a dress. A piece 
 of pin-paper rolled up and rubbed with the rough end, on the 
 wrong side of a fresh grease-spot, will often remove the blem- 
 ish from silk. Fine French chalk scraped to powder and 
 rubbed on the wrong side of the spot, brushing it off in about 
 an hour, and repeating the application, is another remedy for 
 accidental grease. But the most efficacious is to scrape down 
 some of a Wilmington clay ball, (to be obtained for a trifle at 
 the diug-stores,) and to rub the powder on the wrong side 
 of the grease-spot. In an hour or two hours, rub off the 
 powdei, and repeat the application. W^e have never known 
 it fail 
 
STAINS GREASE, ETC. 81 
 
 TO REMOVE SPOTS OF TAR, PITCH, OR lUR- 
 PENTINE. — Carefully scrape off as much of it as you can; 
 next, wet the place thoroughly with good salad oil, and let it 
 rest till next day. Then (if linen or cotton) wash it out in 
 strong warm soap-suds ; if woollen or silk, rub on some ether 
 or spirits of wine to take out the grease. 
 
 If the stain is of tar, you may remove it (after it has been 
 scraped and wiped) by using cold tallow, instead of sweet oil. 
 Take a small lump of good tallow, rub and press it well on 
 the tar spot, and leave it sticking there till next day. Then 
 proceed as above. 
 
 TO EXTRACT LAMP OIL FROM A DRESS— If 
 
 lamp oil is spilled on a dress that will not be injured by wetting, 
 lay it immediately in a small tub of cold water. A portion of 
 the oil will shortly be seen to rise to the surface ; then pour off 
 the water, replace it with fresh, and still more oil will be seen 
 floating on the top. Again pour off the water, and fill the tub 
 anew ; repeating the process till no more oil can be discovered 
 on the surface. Then take out the dress, wring it well, and 
 dry and iron it. No washing is necessary. We know an in- 
 stance of a lamp with its whole contents, being overset into 
 the lap of a young lady, and by immediately resorting to the 
 above-mentioned mode of extracting the oil from her new and 
 very handsome dress of pink French gingham, she appeared 
 in it next day with its beauty and colour untarnished, and no 
 vestige of the accident in the slightest degree apparent. 
 
 If lamp oil or any other grease is spilled on a white dress, 
 it can of course be eradicated by washing and boiling in the 
 usual manner. 
 
 To take lamp oil from a silk dress, or any one that shonild 
 not be wetted, nothing is better than to turn the gown on the 
 
82 T H E II U S E B K. 
 
 wrong side, and cover the place with powdered Wilmington 
 clay ; rub it on with your finger the straight way of the threads.,, 
 to prevent the silk from fraying. At the end of an hour, brush 
 off the clay, and put on some fresh. By repeating the appli 
 cation a few times, the oil will disappear. 
 
 TO TAKE LAMP OIL OUT OF A SOFA, &c.— Cover 
 the spot, however large, with powdered or crumbled Wilming- 
 ton clay. Then pin down over the place a sheet of soft thin 
 paper, (blotting-paper, for instance,) and let it rest several hours. 
 Then brush it off, and renew the clay and the paper. By re- 
 peating the application the oil will be entirely extracted. We 
 have known this remedy to take out all traces of oil from a crim- 
 son damask sofa, over which a lamp had leaked so as to leave 
 a spot as large as a dessert plate. 
 
 The same process will take out oil or other grease from a 
 carpet. If Wilmington clay cannot readily be obtained, (it is 
 well to keep a supply of it always in the house,) mix together 
 in equal quantities, ox-gall and powdered fuller's earth or pot- 
 ter's clay, (for instance, a table-spoonful of each ;) dilute the 
 mixture with water sufficient to wash the grease-spot repeatedly, 
 rubbing it on hard. While it is drying, pin a thin paper closely 
 over it, to prevent the dust from sticking to the place. When 
 the grease is all out, wash the spot with cold water. 
 
 If the accident has happened to a table-cover, hearth-rug, or 
 any thing that can be hung out, it is best to dry it in the 
 *open air. 
 
 TO EXTRACT LAMP OIL FROM A FLOOR Take 
 
 immediately some fuller's earth, (which you can procure for a 
 trifle at any pottery, also at the grocery and drug stores,) and 
 scrape it to powder with a knife. Pour some warm water on 
 
STAINS, "tiR.E^SE, ETC. • 83 
 
 the boards that are greased with the oil, and then spread on it 
 the fuller's earth ; mixing it into a paste, and plastering it on 
 with a small flat stick. If you spread it on with a knife, the 
 floor will be stained with iron mould. Let it remain thus two 
 days. Then scrape off the paste, and renew the application 
 with more warm water and fresh potter's clay. Two days 
 after, repeat Jt again, and persist till the oil is entirely re- 
 moved. Then let the place be scrubbed with soap and water 
 in the usual manner. 
 
 TO TAKE OUT STOVE-PIPE STAINS, OR SOOT 
 FROM A FLOOR. — Wash the place with sulphuric acid 
 very much diluted with water. If you find that the stain does 
 not come out, add a very little more of the sulphuric acid, to 
 make the mixture somewhat stronger. 
 
 TO TAKE LAMP OIL OUT OF A CARPET.— Loosen 
 
 the carpet, and turn up the part that is greased. Rub the floor 
 underneath with finely powdered pipe-clay, or with scraped 
 "Wilmington clay. After it has lain two or three hours, brush 
 it off, and repeat the clay till all the grease is extracted. In 
 the mean time, (having laid a piece of thiftk paper between the 
 greasy part of the carpet and that which is clean,) .cover the 
 oil-spot with the pulverized clay, and pin a piece of blotting- 
 paper over it. Let it rest two or three hours, and then repeat 
 the application. By persevering, you will succeed in extract- 
 ing the oil both from the floor and carpet. The same remedy 
 will remove any other grease. 
 
 TO EXTRACT GREASE-SPOTS FROM BOOKS OR 
 PAPERS. — First you must gently warm the greased or spot- 
 ted part of the book or paper, and then press on it bits of blot- 
 
84 , THEIIOUSEBOOK. 
 
 ting-paper, one after anotlier, so as to absorb as much of the 
 grease as possible. If the grease is fresh, the blotting-paper 
 will be very serviceable. Have ready some fine clear essen- 
 tial oil of turpentine, heated almost to a boiling state ; warm 
 the greased leaf a little, and then with a soft clean brush 
 dipped in the heated turpentine, wet both sides of the spotted 
 part. By repeating this application the grease will be ex- 
 tracted. Lastly, with another brush dipped in rectified spirits 
 of wine go over the place, and the grease will no longer 
 appear, neither will the paper be discoloured. 
 
 It were well to finish by pressing the paper all over with a 
 moderately heated iron, laying a sheet of tissue paper between. 
 
 TO REMOVE GREASE FROM WALL-PAPER.— 
 
 Scrape some Wilmington clay to powder ; wet it with a little 
 cold water mixed with ox-gall, and plaster it on the grease- 
 spots. Pin a blotting-paper carefully over it. Let it rest two 
 or three hours, then brush it off and renew the application : 
 repeat it till the grease disappears. 
 
 If you have no Wilmington clay, you may substitute 
 magnesia, or scraped grease-ball. 
 
 TO TAKE OUT PAINT FROM A DRESS.— After a 
 
 paint-spot has dried, it is extremely difficult to remove it. 
 When fresh, (having wiped off as much as you can,) it may be 
 taken out by repeated applications of spirits of turpentine or of 
 spirits of wine, rubbed on with a soft rag or a flannel. Ether 
 also will efface it, if applied immediately. If the paint has 
 been allowed to harden, nothing will take it off but spirits oi 
 turpentme, rubbed on with perseverance. 
 
STAINS, GREASE, ETC. , S5 
 
 TO TAKE FRESH PAINT OUT OF A COAT— Take 
 immediately a bit of cloth and rub the wrong side of it on tho 
 paint-spot. If no other cloth is convenient, part of the inside 
 of the coat-skirt will do. This simple application will gene- 
 rally remove the paint when quite fresh. Otherwise rub on 
 with your finger some ether, or dip a bit of sponge or flannel 
 in the ether, and wipe the paint-spot with it as hard as 
 possible. 
 
 TO TAKE WAX OUT OF CLOTH.— Hold a red-hot 
 iron (a poker, for instance) within an inch or two of the cloth 
 till the wax has disappeared. Then rub the cloth with sqrae 
 soft clean rag. 
 
 Wax droppings may be removed in the same manner from 
 Tel vet. 
 
 TO TAKE OUT SPERMACETI.— First scrape off the 
 'drops of spermaceti nicely with a knife. Then lay a thin soft 
 paper over them, and press on a warm iron which must not be 
 hot enough to injure the colour. Afterwards rub the place 
 with spirits of wine. 
 
 If the spermaceti has fallen on an article of which you cap 
 conveniently get at the wrong side, first scrape off as much of 
 *he grease as stands on the surface, then rub the under-side of 
 ihe spot with Wilmington clay-ball scraped to powder, and let 
 it rest for an hour or two : then repeat the application. 
 
 TO REMOVE WATER STAINS FROM BLACK 
 CRAPE. — When a drop of water falls on a black crape veil 
 or collar, it leaves a conspicuous white mark. To obliterate 
 this, spread the crape on a table, (laying on it a large book o» 
 
 a paper-weight to keep it steady,) and place underneath the 
 
 8 
 
86 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 ?tain a piece of old black silk. With a large camel's haii 
 brush dipped in common ink, go over the stain ; and then wipe 
 off the ink with a little bit of old soft silk. It will dry im- 
 mediately, and the white mark will be seen no more. 
 
 TO REMOVE DUST OR MUD FROM A DRESS.— 
 
 Take a small broom-corn whisk and (having shaken the 
 dress) brush it carefully between the pleats or gathers. If 
 there is mud on the skirt, rub it off vTith a piece of stout 
 worsted stuff formed into a roll ; or with a clean course towel. 
 A plush-block is an excellent thing for brushing silk or merino 
 dresses. To make it, get a small square block of wood, and 
 sew 'tightly all over it (in the manner of a pincushion) a 
 covering of saddler's plush. 
 
 TO TAKE INK OUT OF A COLOURED TABLE- 
 COVER. — For a large ink-stain, dissolve a tea-spoonful of 
 oxalic acid, in a tea-cup of hot water. Pour it into a bowl, 
 and dip into it the part that is stained by the ink ; rubbing it 
 well in the solution. If the ink does not come out well, mix 
 some fresh oxalic acid and hot water, and add it to the first. 
 Rub the stain a while longer ; and when the ink has all come 
 out, dip the part immediately in water that is warm but not 
 hot. Rub it well in the water, to get the oxalic acid entirely 
 out; for if allowed to remain in, it will corrode the article. 
 Then wash the table-cover, directly, in the manner described 
 in a former receipt. 
 
 "If these directions are carefully followed, the ink will be 
 extracted, and the colours of the table-cloth not in the least 
 disturbed. 
 
 If ink is spilled on white clothes, apply the oxalic acid, as 
 above, and then put the article at once into the boil. This 
 
STAIN S, GREASE, ETC. 87 
 
 application of oxalic acid, used very carefully, will also remove 
 ink spots from coloured dresses. And it will take out stains 
 of tea, even from a bufF-coloured article, on which a tea-stain 
 has turned blackish. 
 
 Oxalic acid and hot water will also remove iron-mould. 
 After applying it according to the above directions, place the 
 article in the hot sun for about a quarter of an hour. 
 
 Though a powder, it is best to keep oxalic acid in a bottle 
 tightly covered; taking care that the word "Poison" is. written 
 conspicuously on the label. The mistress of the family should 
 not allow it to go out of her own possession. 
 
 TO REMOVE INK-SPOTS FROM WHITE CLOTHES. 
 
 — ^This must be done before the clothes are washed. Pick 
 some tallow from the bottom of a clean mould candle. Rub 
 it hard on the ink-spots, and leave it sticking there in bits, till 
 next day, or longer. Then let the article be washed and boiled ; 
 and if it is merely common ink, the stain will entirely disap- 
 pear. Of course, this remedy can only be used for white 
 things, as coloured clothes cannot be boiled without entirely 
 fading them. We know it to be efficacious. The tallow must 
 be rubbed on quite cold. 
 
 TO TAKE OUT MARKING INK.— Wet some chloride 
 of lime with warm water, and rub it on the mark with you: 
 finger; repeating it till the ink disappears. Wash out the 
 place immediate./ ; as, if left in, the chloride of lime will 
 injure the linen. Oxalic acid or salt of sorrel, rubbed on aftei 
 the mark has been wetted with warm water, will also take it out. 
 
 TO REMOVE FRESH INK FROM A CARPET.— As 
 
 soon as the ink has been spilled, take up as much as you can 
 
88 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 with a spoon, and then pour on cold water repeatedly, stil. 
 taking up ine liquid with the spoon. Next, rub the place with 
 a little wet oxalic acid or salt of sorrel, and wash it oflf imme- 
 diately with cold water. Then rub on some hartshorn. 
 
 TO TAKE INK OUT OF UNPAINTED WOOD.— 
 
 When a desk or bench or floor is stained with ink, cut a lemon 
 or a lime in half, and rub the spots with it. Then wash it off 
 with warm water. 
 
 Vinegar is a tolerable substitute for lemon-juice, in removing 
 ink-stains from boards. 
 
 TO TAKE INK OUT OF MAHOGANY.— Mix a small 
 tea-spoonful of oil of vitriol with a large table-spoonful of soft 
 water ; dip into it a bit of clean flannel, and rub it on the ink- 
 spots lightly and quickly, till they disappear. Then wash it 
 off with a little milk, and rub it dry. 
 
 Or you may wet a little salt of tartar or oxalic acid and rub 
 It on the ink-spot, washing it off immediately after the ink has 
 disappeared. 
 
 TO REMOVE HEAT MARKS FROM A TABLE— 
 
 If a whitish mark is left on a table by carelessly setting on it 
 a pitcher of boiling water, or a hot dish, pour some lamp oil 
 on the spot, and rub it hard with a soft cloth. Then pour on 
 a little spirits of wine or Cologne water, and rub it dry with 
 another soft cloth. The white mark will thus disappear, and 
 the table look as well as ever. 
 
 TO RESTORE MILDEWED LINEN— Clothes some 
 times become mildewed from remaining damp too long before 
 they are ironed, or from other causes. If they are clothes tha 
 
STAINS, GREASE, ETC. 
 
 89 
 
 have no dye or colouring about them, let them be dipped in 
 very sour buttermilk, and then spread on the grass in the sua 
 When they are dry, wash out the buttermilk in cold watei; 
 and repeat the process till the mildew disappears. 
 
 Another way of removing mildew, is to soap the spots, and 
 then, while wet, to cover them with fine chalk scraped to pow 
 der. Rub it well in, and then expose the article to the sun. 
 By repeating the application the mildew will disappear. 
 
 Another way, is to mix some soft soap with powdered 
 starch, adding half as much salt as you have of the starch, and 
 also the juice of a lemon. With this mixture cover the mildew 
 on both sides, and lay the article on the grass ; keeping it out 
 night and day till the stain disappears. 
 
 TO RESTORE SCORCHED LINEN.— If linen has been 
 scorched in ironing, and the mark did not go entirely through 
 so as to damage the texture, it may be removed by .the follow- 
 ing process: — Take two onions, peel them, slice them, and 
 extract the juice by squeezing or pounding. Then cut up half 
 an ounce of white soap, and two ounces of fuller's earth, mix 
 with them the onion-juice and half a pint of vinegai. Boil 
 this composition well : then spread it, when cool, over the 
 scorched part of the linen, and let it dry on. Afterwards wash 
 out the linen. 
 
 TO WHITEN LINEN THAT HAS TURNED YEL- 
 LOW. — Cut up a pound of fine white soap into a gallon of 
 milk, and hang it over the fire in a wash-kettle. When the 
 soap has entirely melted, put in the linen, and boil it half an 
 hour. Then take it out ; have ready a lather of soap and warm 
 water; wash the linen in it, and then rinse it through two cold 
 waters, with a very little blue in the last. 
 
90 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 TO RESTORE LINEN THAT HAS LONG BEEN 
 STAINED. — Rub the stains on each side with wet brown 
 soap. Mix some starch to a thick paste with cold water, and 
 spread it over the soaped places. Then expose the. linen to 
 the sun and air; and, if the stains have not disappeared in 
 three or four days, rub off the mixture, and repeat the process 
 with fresh soap and starch. Afterwards dry it, wet it with 
 cold water, and put it in the wash. 
 
 TO KEEP SILK.— Silk articles should not be kept folded 
 in white paper, as the chloride of lime used in bleaching the 
 paper will probably impair the colour of the silk. Brown or 
 blue paper is better : the yellowish smooth India paper is 
 best of all. Silk intended for a dress should not be kept in the 
 house long before it is made up, as lying in the folds will have 
 a tendency to impair its durability by causing it to cut or split, 
 particularly if the silk has been thickened bj^ gum. We knew 
 an instance of a very elegant and costly thread-lace veil being 
 found on its arrival from France cut into squares (and therefore 
 destroyed) by being folded over a paste-board card. 
 
 A white satin dress should be pinned up in blue paper, 
 with coarse brown paper outside, sewed together at the edges. 
 
 The best way of keeping ribbons is to roll them round the 
 blocks made for the purpose, and then wrap them in soft 
 paper. You can easily obtain a few blocks from the stores 
 where ribbons are sold. The block should be a little wider 
 than the ribbon, that the edges may not be injured. When 
 you have wound it smoothly round the block, secure the end 
 of the ribbon with a little niinnikin pin. A large pin will 
 leave holes, and perhaps green ones. 
 
 In rolling two pieces of ribbon round the same block, place 
 the first end of the second piece wide- the last end of the first 
 
STAINS, ORE AS E, ETC. 91 
 
 piece, otherwiije there will be a ridge where the two como 
 together. Take care, in rolling-, not to make the slightest crease. 
 Never wrap silk or ribbon, or indeed any tiling that is to bo 
 worn without washing, in a printed paper, as the printing ink 
 will rub off and soil it. 
 
 TO CLEAN WHITE SATIN SHOES.— Rub them 
 hnglhways of the satin, with a piece of new white flannel 
 dipped in spirits of wine. If slightly soiled, you may clean 
 them by rubbing with stale bread. 
 
 White satin shoes should be kept in blue paper closely 
 wrapped, with coarse brown paper outside. 
 
 To keep your thin light slippers in shape, when you put 
 them away, fold them over lengthways or sideways, and tie 
 the strings round them. You should have a covered box pur- 
 posely for your shoes. 
 
 STAIN MIXTURE.— Take an ounce of sal-ammoniac, (or 
 hartshorn,) and an ounce of salt of tartar: mix them well, put 
 them into a pint of soft water, and bottle it for use, keeping it 
 very tightly corked. Pour a little of this liquid into a saucer, 
 and wash in it those parts of a white article that have been 
 stained with ink, mildew, fruit, or red wine. When the stains 
 have by this process been removed, wash the article in the 
 usual manner. 
 
 Another stain mixture useful for removing ink-spots, is to 
 dissolve half an ounce of oxalic acid in a pint of soft water; 
 then bottle and cork it for use, shaking it well. To use it, 
 stretch the ink-stain over a bowl of hot water, and rub it with 
 a sponge dipped in the oxalic solution. Then wash and dry it 
 
 CLOTHES BALLS.— -Take four ounces of fuller's eartli, 
 dried so as to crumble into powder, and mix with it half an 
 
93 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 ounce of pearl-ash. Wet it with a sufficiency of lemon-juice 
 to work it into a stiff paste. Then form it into balls, and dry 
 them in the sun, or on the top of a moderately warm stove. 
 When quite dry, put them away for use. They will be found 
 efficacious in removing grease spots and stains from articles of 
 clothing, first wetting the spot with cold water, and then rub- 
 bing on the ball ; afterwards drying the place in the sun or by 
 the fire, and then washing it off with a sponge and clean water. 
 
 SALT OF LEMON.— This is the popular but erroneous 
 name of a mixture very efficacious in taking out stains from linen, 
 or from the hands. To prepare it, pound together in a mortar, 
 equal quantities of oxalic acid and cream of tartar, (say an 
 ounce of each,) mixing them thoroughly. Or the druggist of 
 whom you buy the two articles, will have them pounded for 
 you. Put it into small boxes, and keep it closely covered, and 
 free from damp. When used, it must be moistened with a 
 little water. If your hands are stained witli ink, fruit, or 
 indeed with any thing, dip them in water, and then rub on the 
 stained parts a little of this powder; afterwards washing it off 
 witli fine soap. If swallowed, this powder is poison. 
 
 A piece of lemon or the half of a lime, rubbed on hard, will 
 also remove stains from the hands. 
 
 WILMINGTON CLAY BALLS— These are excellent 
 for extracting grease, and may be had in Philadelphia, at most 
 of the drug-stores. Their colour is a yellowish white ; they 
 are softer than fuller's earth. They cost but a trifle, and no 
 house should be without them. They are made entirely of a 
 peculiar sort of clay, found at Wihnington, Del. ; and to use 
 them, they must be scraped down, and the powder rubbed on 
 the grease-spot. 
 
93 
 
 DOMESTIC DYES. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 All articles to be dyed at home, should, if they are not quite 
 new, be well washed and boiled, so as to make them perfectly 
 clean before they are put into the dye ; otherwise the colour 
 will be dull and dingy, and the dirt will appear through it. 
 Previous to going into the dye-kettle, they should be immersed 
 either in lye, alum-water, or plain water; then well squeezed 
 and shook out, and put into the dye wet all through ; otherwise 
 the colour will spot or run in streaks. If they have been 
 originally of another colour, that colour must be boiled out as 
 much as possible, before they can take the new dye smoothly 
 and evenly. White things, or those of a very pale pink, or 
 pale blue, take a dark or black dye much better than when 
 their colour was previously dark. 
 
 If the shade is not deep enough the first time, dip them again 
 
 in the dye. 
 
 While the things are in the dye-kettle, keep them well 
 opened out, lifting them up and down occasionally, and stirring 
 them about with a stick. 
 
 The dye for light colours should be made in earthen, tin, oi 
 brass vessels, and generally set with alum. Dark colours 
 should be boiled in iron, and usually set with copperas. 
 
 Before you put in the article to be dyed, it is best to try tho 
 colour upon a waste bit of the same material ; or by dipping 
 in a piece of white paper. 
 
94 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 PINK DYE. — Take a sufficient quantity of flowers of the 
 bergamot plant ; pick them clean, and boil them in clear soft 
 water ; making the dye stronger or paler as you choose. When 
 well boiled, strain the liquid, and add to it a few drops of 
 oil of vitriol ; more or less in proportion to the quantity of dye. 
 There must be just enough of the vitriol to give the liquid a 
 slight acid taste; but if there is too much, it will injure 
 the texture of the article to be dyed. This article (it should 
 always be a white one) must previously be well washed in hot 
 soap-suds to make it perfectly clean. Then rinse it in cold 
 water, squeeze it, shake it out, and put it w^et into the dye. 
 When it is thoroughly imbued, rinse it in cold water. Lastly, 
 dry and smooth it with a stone, or with a very cool iron. 
 
 This is a beautiful pink dye for white silk scarfs, handker- 
 chiefs, &c. For those articles a little gum arable water (for 
 instance, a table-spoonful or more) should be mixed with the 
 rinsing w^ater. The fringe at the edges should be nicely 
 pulled out and shook while drying. 
 
 The bergamot flowers, if carefully dried and put up in white 
 papers, will answer very well for the dye, at seasons when no 
 fresh ones are to be had. 
 
 RED. — Having boiled in brass or earthen, two gallons of 
 clear soft water, half a pound of wheat bran, and three ounces 
 of powdered alum ; strain it, return it to the kettle, and put in 
 half an ounce of cream of tartar, and half an ounce of cochi- 
 neal ; each tied in a separate thin muslin bag. Boil it about 
 a quarter of an hour. Then dip in the article to be dyed, and 
 proceed in the usual manner. 
 
 If you wish a deeper red, use a smaller proportion of watei 
 ana more of the cochineal. 
 
DOMESTIC DYES. 95 
 
 YELLOW. — Procure from a drug store, a sufRcient quantity 
 if temerech or turmeric powder; tie it up in a muslin rag, and 
 i)oil it in alum-water, or in skim milk. Have ready the article 
 to be dyed, (which, if not quite new, must be made perfectly 
 clean by washing.) When the turmeric liquid has arrived at 
 the tinge you wish, take out the bag, put in the article, (which 
 must be previously wet thoroughly,) and give.it a boil. Then 
 squeeze it out, and stretch, dry, and iron it as quickly as 
 possible. 
 
 Turmeric will give a beautiful yellow colour to white silk 
 handkerchiefs, scarfs, or ribbons. Also to muslin for curtain- 
 linings ; and to the thin muslin used for covering gilt frames, 
 lamps, &c., in the summer. 
 
 The flowers of the French marigold, picked to pieces, and 
 boiled with a bit of alum, will dye a fine lemon yellow. The 
 article to be dyed must be white, washed very clean, and then 
 steeped in cold water. After the marigold dye has been boiled 
 and strained, put the article in wet, and boil it till well coloured. 
 
 Another yellow may be dyed, by tying some saifron in a thin 
 muslin bag, and boiling it in alum water, in an earthen vessel. 
 Then strain it, and when cool, put in the article. 
 
 Peach leaves will make a yellow dye. Also onion skins. 
 
 BLUE. — Boil gently together in clear soft water, a pound 
 of woad, half a pound of indigo, and two ounces of alum. 
 Then strain it, and add an ounce of pyroligneous acid oi 
 vinegar of wood. Take the article to be dyed, (which must 
 be white,) and if dirty, wash it well. Then soak it in clean 
 water, wring it very well, and put it wet into the dye. Keep 
 it in till you perceive that it has thoroughly taken the colour, 
 stirring it about with a stick. Then dry it, and afterwards 
 wash it out in w^arm soap-suds. 
 
93 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 BLUE COMPOSITION— This is a compound of indigo 
 ««nd fitriol, and can be obtained at the druggists in a phial. 
 The cost is twelve cents an ounce, and it colours silk a fine 
 blue ; but must not be used for cotton. The proportion for a 
 light blue, is ten or fifteen drops of this composition, mixed in 
 a quart of warm soft water, and then stirred and strained. If 
 you wish it darker, add more of the blue compound. Immerse 
 in it the article to be dyed, (first wetting it,) and when it has 
 taken well, wring it out, and dry it. "When quite dry, wash 
 it in cool soap-suds, and dry it again. This will prevent its 
 being injured by the vitriol. 
 
 DARK BLUE. — Boil four ounces of copperas in two gal- 
 lons of water. Having wetted the article, dip it into the cop- 
 peras dye while hot. Then rinse it through cold water. Have 
 ready a strong decoction of logwood boiled and strained, and 
 dip the article through that till it has taken a fine dark blue. 
 Dry it, and then wash it in soap-suds. 
 
 GREEN. — Make first a fine yellow dye of turmeric, tied up in 
 thin muslin, and boiled in soft water, with some pieces of alum. 
 Having thoroughly wet the article to be dyed, put it into the 
 dye, (^after it has become tepid or lukewarm,) and stir it about 
 till it has taken. Then open it out, and dry it. Afterwards 
 stir into the yellow dye a sufficient quantity of the druggist's 
 blue indigo-composition, (a little at a time,) to make it the tint 
 of green you require. Then put into water the article that is 
 already dyed yellow; and when well soaked, squeeze it out, 
 and put it wet into the green dye. When it has taken the 
 green thoroughly, (perhaps in fifteen minutes,) dry it, and 
 smooth it with a stone. A warm iron will injure the colour. 
 
 This dye must not be used for cotton. 
 
D O M E S TI C D Y E S. 97 
 
 A good proportion of the ingredients for a bright green dye, 
 IS two ounces of turmeris:; to four gallons of water, with four 
 ounces of pulverized alum ; and for the blueing, half a table- 
 spoonful of the indigo compound. For a more yellowish 
 green, use more turmeric ; for a more blueish, a larger pro- 
 portion of the indigo mixture. 
 
 For a dark or bottle green, take twelve ounces of fustic, and 
 three ounces of bruised alum, and boil them in three gallons 
 of water. Then stir in (by degrees) the indigo composition, 
 till you get the colour as dark as you wish. 
 
 AN EXCELLENT BUFF DYE— For about twelve 
 yards of white cotton or thick muslin, prepare in a brass kettle 
 two gallons of soft water, into which put a large tea-cupful 
 of pot-ash sewed up in a flannel bag. After the pot-ash has 
 entirely dissolved in the water, hang the kettle over the fire, 
 and let it become scalding hot ; but do not allow it to boil. 
 When almost at the boiling point, take out the pot-ash bag, 
 and put in an ounce of anatto or aronetta-powder, sewed up in 
 a linen bag. Let the anatto bag simmer in the water about 
 half an hour, till the kettle is almost at a boil. Then have 
 ready the article, which must be previously washed in a strong 
 warm pot-ash water. Remove the kettle from the fire ; put 
 into it the wet muslin that has been washed in the pot-ash 
 water, and work it about in the dye; rinsing it up and down, 
 till the whole of it has taken the colour thoroughly and evenly. 
 Do not let it boil, as that may injure the tint. Then wring 
 -it well, open and shake it, stretch it evenly, and hang it out to 
 dry immediately. After it has entirely dried, wash it well in 
 soap-suds, hang it out again, and iron it while damp. 
 
 This will be found a very handsome colour for linings, bed- 
 spreads, vallances, and common curtains. For the latter 
 
 9 
 
98 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 purpose, it should have a fringe or a binding of black, dark- 
 green, brown, purple, or crimson. Aronetta alone, makes a 
 well known salmon colour; but this addition of pot-ash gives 
 it a beautiful bright buff tint, such as is generally called bird of 
 paradise colour. It will bear repeated washings, without 
 fading. 
 
 For a more yellowish tinge, use a larger portion of pot-ash ; 
 for a more reddish, increase the quantity of aronetta. 
 
 This dye may be made of a deep nankeen colour, if 
 desired. 
 
 COMMON ARONETTA DYE.— Tie up some aronetta or 
 anatto powder (for instance, twelve cents worth) in a thin 
 muslin bag, and rub it into a strong lather, (good soft soap is 
 best for this purpose,) or into weak lye. Having soaked the 
 article in cold water, wring it out, open it, and boil it in the 
 dye. Then dry it in the shade, and iron it. 
 
 This quantity is sufficient for twelve yards of thick muslin, 
 which will be found very useful for linings and other 
 purposes. 
 
 The proper name of this dye-stuff is anatto or arnotto, but 
 its popular appellation is aronetta. 
 
 FINE SALMON COLOUR.— Make a strong lather with 
 very good soap. Tie up in a thin muslin bag a sufficient 
 qua«tity of anatto or aronetta powder, (not less than six cents 
 worth,) and rub it into the lather : then give it a boil for a 
 quarter of an hour. Having wet the article to be dyed very 
 thoroughly with alum-water, put it into the dye, and let it boil 
 for half an hour or more, in proportion to its size and tl^ickness 
 'l.'hen take it out, dry, and iron it. 
 
 This quantity will dye six yards of silk or muslin. 
 
DOMESTIC DYES. 99' 
 
 NANKEEN COLOUR.— Take a sufficient quantity of 
 '^Jrch bark, split it small, and tie it up in a thin cotton cloth. 
 Put it into a brass or tin kettle with soft water and a few bits 
 of alum. When it has boiled till you get the right colour, let 
 it cool a little, and put in the article to be dyed, having first 
 wet it thoroughly. 
 
 SLATE COLOUR.— This may be obtained by the very 
 simple process of boiling in vinegar with a bit of alum, 
 some pieces of the thick purple paper that comes round sugar- 
 loaves. Then strain it and return it to the kettle, which must 
 be of iron. Having first boiled all the original colour out of 
 the articles to be dyed slate, and steeped them in cold water, 
 squeeze them out, open them, put them wet into the new dye, 
 and boil them till thoroughly coloured. Then dry them, and 
 wash them in soap-suds. 
 
 BLACK. — First, in hot soap-suds boil out as much as pos- 
 sible the previous colour of the article to be dyed, and then 
 wash it in soft water. Have ready a dye made in the propor- 
 tion of a gallon of vinegar to a pound of ground logwood, 
 chipped small and tied up in a thin bag. Let it stand ^11 
 night. In the morning add a piece of copperas half the size 
 of an egg, (or larger, according to the quantity of dye,) and boil 
 the whole for an hour; then strain it. Having made the article 
 to be dyed thoroughly wet by soaking it in lukewarm water, 
 squeeze it, shake it out, and immerse it in the dye ; boiling it 
 a quarter of an hour or more in proportion to its size, and stir- 
 ring it about with a stick. Take it out, dry it, wet it all 
 through again, and give it another boil in the dye. Repeat 
 this a third time. Afterwards, to soften it from the harshness 
 left by the black dye, wash it in tepid soap-suds, and let it lie 
 
•100 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 in the lather about a quarter of an hour. Rinse it first in clear 
 water, and then (if the article is silk) pass it through a weak 
 gum arable water. Stretch it well, dry it in the shade, and 
 then press it. 
 
 This dye will be found useful for silk articles. A dress 
 must be taken entirely to pieces before it is dyed. 
 
 To obtain a jet black ; make first a strong decoction of green 
 walnut husks ; and after it has boiled an hour, strain it, and 
 put in the silk, which must first be steeped in luke-warm water. 
 Then take it out from the walnut liquor, dry it, and having 
 soaked it in water a second time, put it into a kettle of black 
 dye made, (as before-mentioned,) with logwood, vinegar, and 
 copperas, and proceed according to the directions. 
 
 CINNAMON BROWN.— Take half a pound of ground 
 camwood, tie it in a thin bag, and put it into a brass or tin 
 kettle with two gallons of soft water. Boil it a quarter of an 
 hour. Then strain it, and put in the article, wet thoroughly in 
 water. Dip it carefully, and repeat the dipping till it takes 
 the colour completely. 
 
 With the dye that is left, you may obtain different shades 
 of brown by adding, in small quantities, more or less copperas ; 
 Sfivinor it another boil 
 
 to 
 
 OLIVE COLOUR.— Boil together fustic, and walnut or 
 yellow-oak bark. For a bright olive use more fustic, for a dark 
 one more walnut bark. When the liquid is well coloured^ 
 strain it, and put in the article wet ; adding, for a light tint a 
 little vitriol; for a dark one a little copperas, to set the colour. 
 
101 
 
 COUNTRY MANNER OF DYEING 
 WOOL OR YARN. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 All wool or woollen yarn should, before dyeing, be well 
 washed or scoured in strong warm soap-suds, so as to free it 
 entirely from grease : otherwise it will not take the dye. It 
 should then be opened out, and dried ; and before it goes into 
 the dye, it should be made thoroughly wet with cold water, and 
 then squeezed out and opened. When it comes out of the dye, 
 and has taken the colour properly, it must be put in the open 
 air to dry. If raw wool, spread it on boards; if yarn, hang it 
 on lines. When it is quite dry, take a bucket of warm water 
 (not hot) and mix with it a tea-cup full of lye. Wash the 
 article through two of these warm lye-waters, and rinse it in 
 cold water till the colour ceases to come out. Then dry it 
 again. 
 
 Raw wool should be carefully picked and opened before 
 
 washing for the dye. 
 
 All dye-stuffs must be strained before using. The kettle 
 snould then be washed, the dye-stuff returned to it, and the 
 article to be coloured put in. 
 
 The barks used in dyeing should be taken from the trees in 
 April or May, when the sap is in them. 
 
 BROWN. — In the spring when the sap comes up, take a 
 sufficient quantity of bark from the white walnut tree. Spread 
 m a tub or in a half barrel a plentiful layer of this bark, and a 
 
 9* 
 
102 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 thin layer of picked wool, alternately, till the tub Is two-thirds 
 full. Then pour on enough of cold soft water to cover the 
 whole. Lay stones on the top to keep it down. Let it stan«K 
 some days in the sun and air, till the water becomes a very 
 dark brown. Examine the wool to see if it is thoroughly 
 coloured. Then open it out, and spread it on boards to dry. 
 When dry, if you find it not dark enough, repeat the process. 
 It is best to do it in warm weather. 
 
 Another shade of brown may be obtained by mixing with a 
 large quantity of the white walnut bark, a small portion of the 
 bark of sour sumach. 
 
 A light brown may be produced by boiling, in a brass kettle, 
 some bark of the white maple with a lump of alum. 
 
 BUFF COLOUR.— Take in the spring some birch bark. 
 Put it into a brass kettle, and pour on sufficient water to cover 
 \i. Then add a proportionate piece of alum, (for instance, about 
 ftalf the size of an egg or larger,) and let it boil half an hour. 
 Strain it, and return it to the kettle, which must previously be 
 ^yashed clean. Then having thoroughly wetted the article by 
 dipping it in weak lye, and squeezed and shook it out, put it 
 into the dye, and let it boil till it has taken the colour com- 
 pletely. If, when dry, you find it too pale, repeat the dyeing. 
 
 ORANGE COLOUR.— Put into a brass or copper kettle 
 some black-alder bark (taken in the spring) and a sufficiency 
 of soft water to cover it. Boil and skim it till you have a 
 strong fine colour, and then strain it. Have ready a rather 
 strong lye and dip the wool or woollen into it, then squeeze it 
 out, and put the article into the dye while warm, letting it 
 remain in it till the liquid gets cold. Afterwards squeeze it 
 oj)en it out, and dry it in the air. 
 
COUNTRY MANNER OF DYEING. 103 
 
 RED. — Steep five pounds of Brazil wood for a week in rain 
 or river water : then boil it in a sufficient quantity of water to 
 ccver the yarn you intend dyeing. First soak the yarn in 
 alum-water so as completely to saturate it. Then (while wet) 
 boil it in the dye, which must be previously strained. Then 
 open it out and dry it. 
 
 Afterwards take a bucket of warm (not hot) water without 
 soap, and mix with it a tea-cup full of lye. Wash the yarn 
 thus, through two warm waters, and rinse it till the colour 
 ceases to come out. This must always be done with dyed 
 yarn. 
 
 YELLOW. — Boil together two-thirds of black oak bark and 
 one-third of hickory, with sufficient water to cover the yarn, 
 which must first be steeped in alum-water. When the two 
 barks have boiled together till they produce the colour you 
 want, strain the liquid, and put the yarn into it wet. 
 
 The bark of the sweet apple tree will dye a good yellow. 
 
 BLUE AND GREEN— A week before you wish to dye 
 the article, get two ounces of indigo and four ounces of oil of 
 vitriol : mix them together in a clean bottle, cork it tightly, 
 and let it stand to infuse : shaking it several times every day. 
 This, if used by itself, will make a blue dye diluted with 
 water to any tint you wish. When added to certain barks, it 
 will make a green, as follows : 
 
 Take two-thirds of black oak bark and one-third of hickory 
 bark, (stripped from the trees in April or May,) and boil them 
 together in soft water for twelve hours. After which strain 
 the liquid, and mix with it the infusion of indigo and oil of 
 vitriol which you have made a week previous. Then dip the 
 yarn into alum-water, and while wet steep it in the dye. The 
 
104 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 above quantity of ingredients will colour sufficient 3'^arn for 
 two coverlets. 
 
 "When the yarn has taken the colour completely, open it out 
 and spread it to dry in the shade. 
 
 BLACK. — Make a decoction of blue Aleppo nut-galls by 
 bruising them coarsely, and then pouring on them boiling 
 water in the proportion of a gallon of water to a pound of nut- 
 galls. Let the decoction stand for three or four days or more, 
 stirring it frequently. Prepare at the same time, in anothei 
 vessel, a decoction of a quarter of a pound of chipped logwood, 
 and four ounces of green copperas, to two quarts of boiling 
 Urater, and let it stand also three or more days, stirring it often. 
 Afterwards strain the decoction of gall-nuts into a brass or 
 copper kettle, put into it the woollen or yarn, and boil it two 
 hours. Then take it out; empty and wash the kettle, and 
 strain into it the decoction of logwood and copperas. Put in 
 the yam again ; hang it over the fire, and keep the dye for two 
 hours at a scalding heat, but do not let it come to a boil ; fre- 
 quently taking out the yarn and exposing it a little while to 
 the air, which will give it a better black. When it has 
 thoroughly, taken the dye, spread it out to dry, and afterwards 
 wash it in warm water mixed with a little lye, and then rinse 
 it well. 
 
105 
 
 INSECTS, RATS, MICE, &c. 
 
 REMEDIES FOR BED-BUGS OR CHINCHES— In 
 
 new houses, where the habits of the family are neat, and a gene- 
 ral attention is paid to cleanliness throughout, there will be 
 little danger of bed-bugs ; but on removing to an old house 
 which has had various occupants, these disgusting and intolera 
 ble insects frequently make their appearance with the co-m- 
 mencement of the w^arm weather (and sometimes before) from 
 having been unpardonably allowed to get possession even of the 
 crevices of the wood-work on the walls ; and if the chambers 
 are papered, they often contrive to effect a lodgment between 
 the edges of the paper and the plastering. In this case the 
 most efficient remedy is fo have the paper torn off, (first loosen- 
 ing it by washing it all over with a broom or brush dipped in 
 water,) and the walls purified by white-washing or painting. 
 If bugs are found in the crevices of the surbase or wash-board 
 v)f an old house, their haunts should be well washed with a 
 strong decoction of tobacco boiled in water, or with a decoction 
 of red peppers. If these washes (which by frequent repetition 
 generally succeed) should fail to destroy them, the crevices, as 
 a last resource, should be rubbed with quicksilver beaten up 
 with white of egg; and afterwards filled up with putty or wad 
 ding, or with quick-lime mixed with water. 
 
 If on moving into a house, it is found to be free from bugs oi 
 other vermin, the utmost care should be taken to keep it so , 
 remembering always the homely proverb that •' an ounce of 
 prevention is worth a pouni of cure." 
 
106 THE HODsT BOOK. 
 
 An absurd idea is strangely prevalent that bugs never origi- 
 nate in a mahogany bedstead. Notliing can be more false. 
 Ttiere is no wood of which a bedstead can be made that pos- 
 sesses any quality which is inimical to them. Old bedsteads 
 are of course more likely to be infested with bugs than new 
 ones ; and therefore it is not advisable to buy them at auction 
 or in any second-hand way. Cot bedsteads are, of all others, 
 the most productive of bugs. The old-fashioned press-bed- 
 steads (which were made to open out when wanted at night, and 
 during the day were turned up and shut within folding doors 
 so as to resemble a ward-robe press) could never even with 
 the greatest care be kept free from them. We have heard the 
 same objection made to the sofa-beds, which have been tried 
 by persons who desired to use the same room both as a parlour 
 and a chamber. We believe that in our American climate, no 
 bedstead or bedding, which during the day is shut up entirely 
 from the air, can long continue free from these insects. 
 
 For boarding-schools, hospitals, barracks, prisons, and all 
 places where the sleeping apartments are small, or where many 
 persons sleep in the same room, no bedsteads are comparable 
 to those made entirely of iron ; which, however, should always 
 be painted to prevent their rusting. 
 
 Bugs will not only infest bedsteads, but also couches, sofas, 
 cribs, cradles, easy-chairs, ward-robe-presses, and other arti- 
 cles of furniture that are kept in bed-rooms ; therefore great 
 care should be taken to inspect these things frequently. We 
 have heard even of bugs getting into pianos that were kept in 
 boarding-school chambers. Hair trunks should never be placed 
 in bed-rooms, as they are apt to collect bugs, fleas, and moths. 
 It is well not to use hair trunks at all. If those of leather are 
 considered too expensive for common purposes, it is better to 
 substitute strong wooden boxes, painted on the outside, and 
 
INSECTS, RATS, MICE, ETC. 107 
 
 furnished with hinges, handles, and a lock and key. These 
 boxes are excellent for travelling, and also to hold articles at 
 home. By bespeaking them of a carpenter, or cabinet-maker, 
 they can be obtained with little trouble and expense. 
 
 Servants (who in general sleep too soundly to feel much 
 annoyance from any thing) are very apt to neglect the care of 
 their beds, and frequently deny the existence of bugs in them, 
 till they become infested to a degree that is difficult to remedy. 
 When this is the case, it is a chance if the nuisance does not 
 spread to the apartments of the family, the insects being con- 
 veyed thither on the clothes of the servants. A good house- 
 keeper will guard against this evil in time, by personal inspec- 
 tion of the servants' apartments, and by insisting on the 
 excellent practice of spreading out all their bed-clothes on 
 chairs, every morning as soon as they are up, and also on 
 raising the window-sashes, for the purpose of ventilating the 
 room ; even in the coldest weather. 
 
 If, however, their bedsteads are actually infested, they 
 should be taken apart, carried into the yard, and the joints and 
 pins first scalded with hot water, and then washed with cold 
 strong soap-suds : as also the sacking-bottom ; the servants, if 
 necessary, sleeping on the floor for one night, till the whole 
 has had time to dry thoroughly. Before the bedstead is put 
 together again, the joints should be well rubbed with strong 
 mercurial ointment ; or with some of the other applications 
 recommended for the destruction of insects. A servant's bed- 
 stead can hardly be considered safe, unless it is. taken down 
 and cleaned once a month during the warm weather ; and the 
 mistress of the house should see that it is done. 
 
 It is not well to place bedsteads with one side against the 
 wall. This increases the heat, obstructs the free circulation of 
 iir, and adds to the difficulty of keeping them free from bugs 
 
108 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 Even in a small room, some sacrifice of space should be 
 made for the purpose of having the bedstead to stand out in 
 the floor ; so that only the head may be against the wall. 
 
 It is an excellent custom to have all the bedsteads washed 
 at the joints with cold suds made of brown or soft soap, regu- 
 larly once a week, (for instance, on Friday,) spreading a 
 coarse cloth under or round the feet, to catch the droppings of 
 the water. After the bedstead is washed, the bedding should be 
 kept all day spread about the room, or in a back balcony, and 
 the bed not made up till towards evening. 
 
 If proper precautions are observed, there is little danger of a 
 well managed family being troubled with insects in their bed- 
 steads ; unless, as remarked above, they chance to move into 
 an old or ill kept house. It will be well then, as a preventive, 
 to cover all the cracks or joints of the bedstead with strong 
 mercurial ointment, rubbing it in with the finger, A small 
 box of this ointment may be found useful in travelling, to rub 
 on the bedstead before you retire to it. 
 
 One of the best remedies and preventives for bed-bugs, is to 
 procure from a druggist an ounce of quicksilver, and beat it in 
 a mortar to a strong froth, with the whites of two eggs ; or if 
 you wish it very powerful, and thick like an ointment, use the 
 white of one egg only. If liquid, spread it with the feather 
 of a quill : or, what is still better, with a large old camel's 
 hair brush, all over the cracks and pins of the bedstead, (not 
 forgetting the under side of all the joints,) and see that it pene- 
 trates thoroughly. If you have made an ointment of it, rub it 
 on with your finger. This is considered a still better remedy 
 than the common mercurial ointment, but cannot always be as 
 promptly obtained. 
 
 To wash the joints and pins of the bedstead frequently with 
 
INSECTS, RATS, MICE, ETC. 103 
 
 sweet spirits of nitre is a tolerable remedy for bugs when they 
 pre not numerous. 
 
 Corrosive sublimate, mixed with spirits of wine, and rubbed 
 into all the cracks, will also destroy them ; but it must be 
 repeated frequently, washing it w^ell into the cracks with a quill 
 feather, or a soft brush. 
 
 A very good way of keeping bedsteads free from bugs, is, 
 after a weekly washing with cold soap-suds, to take a sponge 
 and wet every joint and pin with a mixture made as follows. 
 Put into a quart bottle equal quantities of spirits of wine and 
 spirits of turpentine, adding a large table-spoonful of oil of 
 vitriol, and an ounce of powdered camphor. Cork it tightly, 
 imd keep it for use. This should be applied every week, be- 
 ginning the first of March, and continuing till November. 
 
 A most effectual remedy against bugs is to have all the bed- 
 steads in the house taken down every spring, (in March, for 
 instance,) and after washing the joints with cold water and 
 brown soap, to have the whole bedstead completely varnished 
 (even on the inside of the joints) with varnish procured from 
 a cabinet-maker ; or getting a cabinet-maker's man to come 
 and do it. The expense will be small in comparison to the 
 benefit. 
 
 Also, carefully stop up with putty all the cracks and cre- 
 vices, however small, of the wash-board and surbase. 
 
 Or for stopping the cracks, you may use quick-lime made 
 into a dough with water, and plastered into all the crevices 
 with a knife. 
 
 COCKROACHES. — Every house should be provided with 
 tockroach traps. They are made of brown earthenware, and 
 are to be bought for a trifle at the pottery shops, or in ♦he 
 
 10 
 
110 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 Philadelphia market. Bait them with molasses mixed with a 
 little' water, and set them about at night, when the lights are 
 removed. 
 
 Cockroaches should not be allowed to increase, or they will 
 soon become an intolerable nuisance ; and when very nume- 
 rous, it is extremely difficult to get rid of them. It is best, as 
 soon as the first one makes its appearance, to resort immedi- 
 ately to effective measures for their destruction ; for if taken 
 in time, they are easily extirpated. Let every cockroach that 
 is found on the stairs be immediately killed ; for if they once 
 get into the upper part of the house there is danger of their 
 creeping into the beds, and finding their way into trunks, band- 
 Doxes, and clothes-presses, where they will eat holes in arti- 
 cles of clothing, if not discovered in time. 
 
 A strong decoction of hellebore leaves, set about in pans, 
 will destroy cockroaches. 
 
 A pound of chloride of lime mixed with a quart of water, 
 and placed where they abound, is destructive to them. 
 
 Another remedy for cock-roaches is to boil the roots of the 
 pokeberry plant till quite dissolved in the water, and then mix 
 it with molasses, and set it about in old saucers. 
 
 The following is a good remefly : — Take six cents worth, o 
 more, of powdered white lead, (you may obtain it at a paint o, 
 drug store,) put it on an old plate, and mix it with Indian meal, 
 and coarse brown sugar or molasses. Then with a little water 
 make it into a paste, using for the purpose a broad-bladed 
 knife, or an iron spoon. Spread it on old plates or saucers, and 
 set it about wherever you have seen cock-roaches. They will 
 eat it readily, and it will destroy them. It is best to mix it 
 fresh every day till the cock-roaches disappear. 
 
 Arsenic powder strewed among bread and butter jrumbs. 
 
INSECTS, RATS, MICE, ETC. Ill 
 
 and laid at night about their haunts, will effectually destroy 
 them. As it is a deadly poison, take care to shut out your cats 
 and dogs from the rooms in which you have placed it. 
 
 Scalding with a hot decoction of tobacco the holes and cracks 
 from which the cock-roaches issue, will greatly diminish their 
 numbers. The scalding should be frequently repeated. 
 
 FLEAS. — Fleas are often brought to a house by cats and 
 dogs ; for which reason those animals should be kept very 
 clean. In the country, if pigs are allowed to be near the 
 house, they will soon cause it to abound in fleas. So also 
 will the immediate neighbourhood of a stable. Shavings, 
 if permitted to accumulate and lie about, will also produce 
 them. To prevent their originating in blankets and other 
 woollens that are put away for the summer, it is well to 
 spread among the folds numerous sprigs of penny-royal. 
 Shreds or flakes of tobacco are also good for this purpose ; so 
 are- lumps of camphor, broken small. 
 
 In catching fleas the best and surest way to kill them is to 
 put them instantly into a basin of water. 
 
 Sprigs of wild myrtle, or penny-royal, or small flat camphor- 
 nags dispersed about your under-clothes, and conveniently fast- 
 ened, will keep fleas from molesting your person durino- the 
 day. 
 
 At night, let penny-royal be scattered over the bed-covers, 
 and laid under the pillows and bolster; strewing a large quan- 
 tity between, the sacking and the mattrass. Wash yourself 
 before going to bed in water that has had essence of penny- 
 royal mixed with it. 
 
 Fumigation with brimstone will destroy fleas ; exposing tc 
 the vapour of the burning sulphur all the articles that are 
 infested with them. 
 
112 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 When fleas are found on cats, dogs, &c., they may be extir- 
 pated by rubbing the animal all over with common snufF, taking 
 care that it does not touch the eyes. 
 
 CRICKETS. — To destroy crickets, put snufFinto the holes 
 and cracks from whence they come out. 
 
 FLIES. — Flies may be destroyed by the following prepara- 
 tion : Dissolve four drachms of extract of quassia, (to be pro- 
 cured at the druggists,) in a pint of boiling water, and then mix 
 in a little brown sugar or molasses. Set it about on old 
 saucers. 
 
 Fly-traps (which are two flat broad pieces of wood, shaped 
 into handles at the bottom, and united at the back by a leathern 
 hinge,) are used in some houses. They must be spread 
 3pen, smeared with molasses on the inside, and stood up or 
 hung in a convenient place. When filled with flies, shut the 
 crap hard, so as to kill them. 
 
 Cold green tea very strong, and sweeten^'^d with brown 
 sugar, will, when set about in saucers, attract the flies and 
 aestroy them. 
 
 Bunches of indigo weed, or of penny-royal, stuck about the 
 harness is said to keep flies from horses. 
 
 MUSQUITOES. — ^The common opinion that musquitoes 
 are attracted by the light, we believe to be erroneous. Out of 
 -^oors they are much more numerous in dark shady places than 
 :n open sunshine ; and the time that they get into the houses, 
 is in the dusk of the evening, before the candles or lamps are 
 lighted. They are very quick-sighted as to the approach of 
 danger, and in trying to kill them on a wall, it is best not to 
 attempt to strike them with the palm of your hand, but merely 
 
INSECTS RATS MICE, ETC. 113 
 
 with your finger as they are less likely to perceive the impend- 
 ing blow. 
 
 Musquito nets are somewhat of safe-guards from the incur- 
 sions of this tormenting insect, and in the south they are con- 
 sidered indispensable. But where the musquitoes are not very 
 numerous, it may be well to omit the use of nets, as they cause 
 an uncomfortable feeling of confinement and oppression in a 
 warm night, from their impeding the free circulation of air 
 around the bed. Also a few stray musquitoes will generally 
 contrive to get within the net before you let it down, and 
 cause you much annoyance. Terrible, and, indeed, fatal acci- 
 Jents have happened from the musquito net catching the flame 
 of the candle, and setting the bedding on fire. 
 
 Musquito nets are made of millinet, coarse leno, or coarse 
 oobbinet. They are thrown over the tester or top-rail of the 
 oed, and hang on all sides quite dow^n to the floor. A musquito 
 oar is the net stretched on a frame of wood, so as to screen 
 A low post bed, from the incursions of these insects. 
 
 It is said that you may get rid of musquitoes for the night, 
 by carrying into your room a shovel or chafing-dish of hot 
 joals, and having thrown on it some browm sugar, close all the 
 windows and doors, and let it burn till the smoke has died away. 
 
 If you put some eau de cologne or spirits of camphor in a 
 basin of cold water, and wash yourself well with it previous 
 to going to bed, the musquitoes will be less likely to trouble 
 you. 
 
 Take a light in your hand, carefully search the walls of your 
 
 room all round, the last thing before you lie down, and kill 
 
 every musquito you see. If you are unwilling to stain the wall, 
 
 you can catch and destroy them with the corner of a towel or 
 
 handkerchief taken between your thumb and finger. Persons 
 
 who have had practice ean do this very dexterously. 
 
 10* 
 
Il4 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 If you have sufficient resolution to refrain from rubbing a 
 musquito bite, and your blood is in a good state, it will seldom 
 inflame or continue troublesome. If, however, the bites do 
 inflame, and cause you much inconvenience, it will be well to 
 cool and purify your blood by taking a wine-glass, or more, of 
 dissolved epsom salts, about day -light every morning, for 
 awhile. To have this always at hand, put a quarter of a 
 pound of salts, in a clean quart bottle: fill it up with water, 
 (either warm or cold) cork it tightly, and keep it in a closet 
 in your room. 
 
 We know no better remedy for musquito bites than salt and 
 vinegar, which if applied immediately, and before the skin is 
 broken by rubbing, will speedily extract the venom, allay the 
 irritation, and cause the swellingr to subside without leavino- 
 any mark or trace. In musquito season, it is well to keep in 
 your closet a little bottle of vinegar, and a cup of salt, with a 
 small plate or saucer to mix them on. Moisten some of the 
 salt with sufficient vinegar to form a paste, (it must not be 
 thin or liquid.) and then plaster it on thick all over the bite. 
 Let it stay on till it falls off of itself, and then if necessary, 
 renew the application. 
 
 It is said that a paste of salt and vinegar, if immediately 
 applied, has been known to extract the poison from the bite of 
 a snake. At least it may be well to try it, till other remedies 
 can be procured. 
 
 Washing musquito bites with lead-water is a good remedy. 
 So also is bay-rum. 
 
 ANTS. — Few insects are more difficult to exterminate than 
 the little red ants with which many houses are infested. They 
 may be kept under, by frequently scalding with boiling water, 
 the cracks and places from which they issue. To smear the 
 
INSECTS, RATS, MICE, ETC. 115 
 
 cracks of the closets between the shelves and the wall with 
 corrosive sublimate will destroy them ; but as it is a deadly 
 poison, it must be used with caution. Dishes and jars con- 
 taining articles that the ants seem to like, should be set in pans 
 of salt and water, and the pan should be surrounded with a 
 ring of salt. If they infest the sideboard, let the feet be set 
 constantly in tin or iron cups filled with salt and water. 
 
 A circle of tar spread round each foot of the bench that 
 holds the hives, will prevent ants from reaching the bees and 
 destroying the honey. 
 
 MOTHS. — Many persons erroneously suppose that the best 
 way to prevent moths from getting into woollens or furs, is 
 occasionally through the summer to hang these articles out in 
 the sun and air. This is a great mistake, as it is by such ex- 
 posure that the moths are most likely to get into them. On 
 the contrary, in the spring, when the season is over for furs 
 and woollens, they should be well shaken and brushed, and 
 then wrapped up tightly in linen, laying among them lumps 
 of camphor ; handfuls of fresh hops ; shreds of good tobacco, 
 or cuttings of Russia leather; or strew among them ground 
 black pepper or cedar shavings ; all of which are preventives to 
 moths : but the camphor is by far the best, and most certain, 
 particularly for furs. For blankets and carpets, you may use 
 the best chewing-tobacco pulled to pieces, or tobacco stems. 
 All woollens, &c. should be kept during the summer, 
 unopened, in dark closets, presses, or chests. If by any chance 
 or neglect, a press or closet should become infested with moths, 
 let it be well scalded with a strong decoction of tobacco and 
 repeatedly sprinkled with spirits of camphor. If this does not 
 expel these troublesome insects, it is better to give up keeping 
 woollens in that press, and to appropriate it to some other use. 
 
116 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 Chests of cnmphor wood (for which many persons send to 
 India) are excellent for keeping woollens, and well worth the 
 cost. If muffs and tippets are kept always closely shut up in 
 their ov/n boxes, with lumps of camphor, and shreds of tobacco, 
 continually interspersed about the fur, they will be in no dan- 
 ger from the moth. Furs had best be put away for the season 
 as early as March. 
 
 Cedar presses are preferable to all others, for xeeping cloth 
 clothes or other woollen articles. 
 
 Hair trunks rarely fail to introduce moths. 
 
 The best time for putting away the woollens is in April, 
 unless the season is so backward as still to require the use of 
 them. One blanket for each bed should be kept out, and left 
 in the chamber-closet, that it may be at hand in case of an 
 uncomfortably cool night in the summer. 
 
 Flannels should never be put out of the way entirely : as in 
 a climate so variable as ours, they may be needed occasionally 
 even in July and August. 
 
 REMEDIES FOR STINGS OR BITES OF INSECTS. 
 
 — If stung on your hand or foot, plunge it dire?;tly into cold 
 water," (strong salt and water is better still,) and hold it there 
 till some other remedy is prepared. A sting in any place will 
 be much relieved by plastering on it immediately some clay or 
 earth, mixed with a little water to the consistence of thick mud. 
 Powdered chalk moistened with water is good. A paste of 
 salt wet with vinegar is excellent. 
 
 A slice of raw onion is said to allay the pain from the sting 
 of a wasp or bee ; or you may wet the part, and rub a piece 
 of indigo upon it. It is also very good to bathe the wound 
 with laudanum, or with hartshorn, or with spirits of camphor, 
 or with sweet oil. 
 
INSECTS, RATS, MICE, ETC. 117 
 
 All the above applications should be repeated till the inten 
 sity of the pain subsides. If the sting shows a disposition to 
 inflame, keep the place constantly wet with a rag soaked in a 
 solution of Prussian blue and soft water. A poultice of cold 
 .lead-water and bread-crumbs, is also a very soothing remedy. 
 I' there seems to be danger of the sting becoming a sore, 
 (which is sometimes the case when the blood is in a bad state, 
 or if the stings are numerous,) take a dose of salts, and refrain 
 from animal food. It may be well also to lose some blood. 
 
 Another remedy, is to hold the part that is stung in pearl-ash 
 and water, moderately strong. 
 
 The pipe or hollow end of a key, pressed hard upon the 
 Wv^und, will allay the pain of a sting. 
 
 It sometimes happens that a wasp or bee is accidenially swal- 
 lowet' : ) ou may in that case kill the insect immediately, by 
 taking a rea-spoonful of salt dissolved in a little water ; this 
 will also p.-e ^ent the sting from inflaming your throat. 
 
 If bees swaim upon your head, hold an empty hive over it 
 and smoke a s*^gar or a pipe. The vapour of the tobacco will 
 drive them all upwards into the hive. 
 
 The pain caused ly the sting of a nettle may be much allayed 
 by rubbing the ptn vf^Mi balm, rosemary, mint, or sage 
 leaves. 
 
 RATS AND MICE-^rhei^ is much difficulty in getting 
 rid of rats and mice, when tb^ y o.ice have found their way 
 into a house. A good cat is one, of the best remedies for 
 mice, but some cats are afraid to envOjinter a rat. 
 
 To keep out rats, the cellar and k'tcK'^n windows (if the 
 kitchen is in the basement story) shoald, at once, wh\le the 
 house is finishing, be provided, both back an^ frort, \\W wire 
 gratings for the windows. Rats and mice always get in from 
 
119 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 out of doors and from the neighbouring houses ; and if the base- 
 ment windows have merely iron bars, they will easily slip 
 between them. No cellar door should be kept open after 
 sunset; indeed, we have more than once seen a rat going 
 down into an open cellar in broad daylight. 
 
 When any holes are found about the walls, they should be 
 immediately and effectually stopped up ; with brick and mor- 
 tar if outside, and if inside, by filling them with pounded 
 glass, or waste newspaper, and nailing over them bits of 
 board ; or rather sheet-lead or tin. 
 
 In travelling, it is well to examine your chamber before you 
 go to bed, and if you find any holes, stop them up for the night, 
 by stuffing in, as tightly as possible, old newspaper, rags, or 
 any thing you can conveniently obtain for the purpose. A hole 
 in the floor may be covered by placing your trunk upon it. It 
 is a good plan to have among your baggage a small mouse-trap, 
 (carefully wrapped up, so that the roughness of the wires 
 may not injure any other article,) and to bait it and set it on the 
 floor of the room in which you sleep. This, by catching the 
 mice, will prevent your being disturbed with their running 
 about the room, and perhaps over your bed. 
 
 The common cage-traps are the best, and may be bought for 
 a trifle at the hard-ware stores. There are spring-traps so con- 
 structed as to kill the mice at the moment they are caught ; but 
 these are difficult to fix, and very soon get so much out of order 
 as to be useless. Bait the trap with toasted cheese, bread and 
 butter, or sweet-cake. You may, as a decoy, lay a train of 
 crumbs from the mouse-hole to the trap. Mice soon learn to 
 know a trap when they see it, and consequently avoid going 
 near it ; therefore set it in a dark place, and cover it as much as 
 possible with rags, waste paper, hay, or any thing that .will 
 effectually conceal from them all but the entrance ; the scent 
 
INSECTS, RATS, MICE, ETC. 119 
 
 only being sufficient to entice them to the bait. The most 
 humane manner of destroying a mouse that has been thus 
 caught, is to put the trap, without opening it, into a tub or 
 bucket of water. 
 
 When mice and rats have become numerous, the most effec- 
 tive way of clearing them off, is by poison.. Bits of broken 
 gltiss, bottles pounded to powder and mixed with mush, or with 
 cold Indian meal and water, and laid about their haunts on old 
 plates, will very generally destroy them. 
 
 Whatever poison is prepared for rats and mice, it is well to 
 place close beside it a shallow vessel of water. If the ani- 
 mal can obtain water it will drink as soon as it has swallowed 
 the poison, and then die directly on the spot, instead of run- 
 ning to its hole and causing a disagreeable smell by perish- 
 ing there. 
 
 Another remedy, is to mix a large table-spoonful of flour 
 with equal quantities of the seeds of hemlock or cicuta, and 
 the scrapings of strong old cheese, pounding them together till 
 quite fine. Set it about on old plates in places where the mice 
 have appeared, but take care not to put it where provisions or 
 any articles of food are kept. The same ingredients, mixed in 
 larger quantities, will of course destroy rats. 
 
 Powdered arsenic, spread on bread and butter, or sweet-cake, 
 is certain destruction to rats and mice ; but great care should 
 be taken to keep young children, and cats and dogs, out of the 
 way of it, lest they eat it in mistake. All papers containing 
 arsenic, should be labelled " Poison," and carefully locked up 
 by the master or mistress of the house. 
 
 To free a room from the smell of a dead mouse or rat ; take 
 a small earthen vessel, in which put a little pounded salt-petre, 
 (more or less according to the size of the room,) and pour on a 
 sufficient quantity of oil of vitriol to saturate or wet it al* 
 
130 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 through profusely. Then place it where the unpleasant smell 
 is most powerful, and leave it in the room ; shutting the doors 
 and windows closely when you go out. In an hour or two, 
 the effluvia from the dead animal will be no longer perceptible. 
 
 EXPELLING INSECTS GENERALLY.—All insects 
 dislike penny-royal. The odour of it destroys some, and 
 drives away others. At seasons when fresh green bunches 
 of penny-royal are not to be obtained, get oil of penny-royal ; 
 pour some into a saucer, and steep in it small bits of wadding 
 or raw cotton. Lay them about in corners, closet-shelves, 
 bureau-drawers, boxes, and all places where you have seen 
 cockroaches or ants, or wherever they are likely to be found. 
 If the insects do not speedily disappear, renew the cotton and 
 penny-royal. It is also well to place some of them about the 
 bedsteads between the sacking and the mattrass. Bunches of 
 penny-royal are excellent for brushing off that very annoying 
 little insect the seed-tick. 
 
 Red wafers, laid among books and papers, will sometimes 
 preserve them from being nibbled by cockroaches, the red 
 lead that colours the wafers being poisonous to them. 
 
 Bits of wadding or raw cotton steeped in strong whisky, 
 and laid among woollens, worsteds, or furs, when packed 
 away during the summer, we know to be a good preservative 
 against moths. Also, it is well to sew up the furs and small 
 woollens in newspapers very closely, the printing-ink being 
 destructive to the insects. 
 
 Still, it is. the safest way to engage a furrier to take care of 
 your furs during the summer. He will send for them, and 
 send them home. The expense is trifling compared with the 
 security. 
 
121 
 
 FUEL, FIRES, &c. 
 
 WOOD. — The best time to lay in wood, for winter fuel, ih 
 in the summer, as at that season the price is comparatively 
 low ; and if you buy it green, it will become dry enough before 
 the cold weather sets in. If, however, you have occasion to 
 buy wood during the winter, get the dryest you can find ; as 
 green wood makes a very bad fire in a cold day, and is at no 
 time good for cooking. There is, however, some economy in 
 buying a few loads of large green wood purposely for back- 
 logs; as there is much inconvenience in a dry back-log con- 
 suming too rapidly. These green logs should be piled in ? 
 place by themselves, and not mixed with the other wood.. 
 
 The best wood for fuel is hickory, and the next is oak. 
 Locust is also very good ; so are walnut, beech, and maple. 
 Birch is tolerable. Chesnut wood is extremely unsafe from 
 its tendency to snap and sparkle, and to throw its small coals 
 all round. Pine wood is of little value as house fuel. * It 
 blazes freely at first, but when its resinous qualities have ex- 
 haled, (which is almost immediately,) the sticks turn black, 
 and seem to moulder away without emitting any heat. Pine 
 chips, however, from the rapidity with which they ignite, are 
 excellent for kindling. 
 
 Some families are in the practice of buying all their wood in 
 large logs, and having them split up at once to a convenieni 
 size as soon as they are sawed, and before they are piled ; 
 engaging a wood-splitter to come with the sawyer and piler. 
 
 This we know to be an excellent plan. A load of large fine 
 
 11 
 
122 THE HOOSE BOOK. 
 
 hickory or oak logs will, when split up, (reserving always a 
 sufficient number for back-logs,) yield a much larger quantity 
 of fuel, than if originally in small separate round sticks, and 
 will therefore go farther. Also the cost of splitting is but ^ 
 trifle, and bears no comparison to the advantage and conve- 
 nience. In buying wood, the smaller and more ciooked it is, 
 the less you have in a load ; on account of the numerous 
 vacancies between the numerous sticks. 
 
 The generality of servants are extremely wasteful in regard 
 to fuel. In summer afternoons they frequently make up as 
 large a fire to boil the tea-kettle, as they have had to cook the 
 dinner, rendering the kitchen so hot, that they are obliged 
 themselves to take refuge in the yard. They should be made 
 to understand that in summer, the fire seldom requires addi- 
 tional wood after dinner ; a few chunks being sufficient to boil 
 the kettle, if it is hung on in time. 
 
 WOOD FIRES.-r-To make a wood fire in an open fire 
 place, begin by removing the andirons, and taking up dU the 
 ashes of the preceding night, and sweeping the hearth very 
 clean. It is well to wash the hearth every morning before the 
 new fire is made. Then bring forward Whatever chunks or hot 
 coals are found remaining from the fire that was covered up the 
 night before; leaving sufficient space to put on a large back* 
 log, on the top of which place another log somewhat smaller. 
 »iay a large fore-stick across the andirons, and upon it, place 
 the live coals and chunks for kindling; adding, if necessary, 
 some chips, or bits of small wood. Then pile on two or three 
 other sticks, (placing the smallest at the top) take the bellows, 
 and blow the fire into a flame till the wood is well ignited. 
 
 If you wish a very large fire, pile two logs on the back-log, 
 which ought to be of great size ; and lay a large middle stick 
 
FUEL, FIRES, ETC. 123 
 
 Between the back-log and the fore-stick. Put on plenty of live 
 coala and kindlings, and add three or four good-sized sticks, 
 (always placing the smallest at top,) and then blow the fire 
 well. 
 
 If you place the small sticks underneath, they will- shortly 
 burn in two, and fall apart ; bringing the upper ones down with 
 diem, and causing confusion and trouble. 
 
 At night, before you go to bed, take off any long sticks that 
 may happen to be on the fire at that time, and carry them out 
 into the yard, throwing them on the ground, or pouring water on 
 to extinguish them completely. This is safer and better than 
 to stand them up in the chimney corner, and to water them out 
 there, where they may chance to take fire again. Having re- 
 moved the sticks, place the chunks and hot coals on the back- 
 log, and throw over them ashes by shovel-fulls, till you have 
 buried them entirely. This will keep the fire in till morning, 
 when you uncover it to kindle with. 
 
 For burning wood in a sitting-room or chamber, there is 
 nothing better than a Franklin stove, which should always be 
 provided with a fender to fit exactly round, that the floor may 
 not be endangered by the coals and chunks rolling off the 
 hearth. In a Franklin stave a soap-stone slab, by way of under 
 back-log, will be found extremely convenient and economical ; 
 as when the iron becomes hot, it consumes a large wooden 
 back-log very soon. These soap-stone logs can be procured 
 from the stone-cutters, who will fit them exactly to the stove 
 or fire-place, first sending a man to take the measure. I'he 
 expense is trifling, and the advantage great. 
 
 There should be a thick iron bar to lay across the andirons, 
 m front of the wood, to prevent the sticks from rolling forward. 
 
 If the tongs become twisted, (as is often the case,) you may 
 
124 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 open them, by taking hold low down near the points, and 
 pulling them apart. 
 
 Always sweep the hearth after mending the fire. Have m 
 a convenient place in the room, a brass nail, on which to nang 
 the hearth-brush, which you may ornament with a bow of 
 ribbon, renewed when it becomes soiled. Always after sweep- 
 ing the hearth, look carefully at the bottom of the brush before 
 you hang it up. Houses have taken fire from bits of hot coal 
 being carelessly left among the bristles of the hearth-brush 
 when it was put away. We knew an instance in Philadelphia, 
 of a ladies bag having caught, from hanging on the same nail 
 with a hearth-brush that was heedlessly put away with hot 
 coals in it. The flame spread instantly to some sheets of 
 music that lay on a piano which stood in the recess, and the 
 instrument (with other articles of furniture) was destroyed 
 before the fire could be extinguished ; the house being only 
 baved by the prompt arrival of the engines. 
 
 All chimneys in which wood is burnt, should be swept 
 regularly once a month. In country places where chimney- 
 sweepers are not to be procured, it is customary to clear the 
 chimneys of the soot, by setting them on fire with a bundle of 
 straw, choosing a rainy-day for the purpose, or one in which 
 the roof is covered with snow. If delayed too long, so as to 
 allow a great accumulation of soot, there is danger that in this 
 mode of cleaning, the fury of the fire may burst the chimney. 
 
 In an open fire-place, it is a good practice every morning 
 before the fire is made up, to take a long broom and putting it 
 lip the chimney as far as it will go, to sweep down all the soot 
 that is within reach. This should be done regularly in a 
 kitchen chimney, there being always danger of flakes of soot 
 falling down into the cooking vessels. 
 
 Previous to making a fire for the first time in the seascn. 
 
FUEL, FIRES, ETC. 125 
 
 burn in the hearth a quantity of waste paper or straw. This, 
 by producing a current of warm air in the cold chimney, will 
 open the draught, and prevent the new fire from smoking. 
 
 CLOSE STOVES. — Of these, there are various sorts, and 
 each sort has its partizans. The most common for burning 
 coal, are those generally called cannon stoves, from their cylin- 
 drical form. Those of sheet iron are the lowest in price, and 
 heat a room very rapidly. They are excellent where only a 
 temporary or occasional fire is wanted. Small ones may be 
 had in Philadelphia for four or five dollars. For a constant 
 fire, these are somewhat troublesome, as without frequent 
 replenishing^ they retain the heat but a short time. Stoves of 
 the same form, but made of cast iron, continue hot much longer ; 
 and, though of higher price are cheapest in the end, as being 
 the most durable. 
 
 Wherever a close stove is used, the fire place should be 
 closed up with a tight-fitting chimney board, having a round 
 hole cut in it to admit the stove-pipe into the chimney. This 
 hole must be well edged with a broad binding of sheet iron or 
 tin, nailed on both sides of the board, to prevent its catching 
 f.re from the heat of the pipe ; an accident that will certainly 
 liappen if this precaution is not attended to. The pipe should 
 be taken down every week, carried into the yard, and thoroughly 
 cleaned out. 
 
 If there is no fire-place in the room, a hole must be cut in 
 
 the chimney wall to admit the pipe ; or a pane may be taken 
 
 out of one of the windows, and replaced with a square of tin, 
 
 having a hole in the centre. This last method, however, is 
 
 liable to the inconvenience of not drawing well when the wind 
 
 is high, the smoke being then blown back, for which the only 
 
 remedy is to have a moveable double elbow or joint at the very 
 
 11* 
 
Ig6 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 extremity of tne pipe. A large sheet of iron should always 
 be closely nailed down under and around the stove, to prevent 
 the floor from catching fire or scorching by falling coals, or by 
 the heat of the stove feet. 
 
 If you have a close stove on tbe hearth of a nujsery, let it 
 be well guarded by a very high fender of a semi-circular form, 
 "the ends hooking to loops> or staples driven into the wall. 
 These fenders may be made of thick iron rods, and will prevent 
 accidents from children running or falling against the stove. 
 If of close small wire, they will look the handsomer ; but may 
 exclude too much of the heat, and are also less lasting than 
 when of iron rods. 
 
 On the top of every close stove, (whether the fire is of coal 
 or wood,) a large pan of water should be constantly kept; re- 
 plenishing it as the water evaporates. These pans are best of 
 block tin : if of earthen or china, the heat will split them. 
 The moisture produced by this vessel of water, will temper the 
 dryness of the atmosphere caused by the close heat of the 
 stove, which may otherwise occasion vertigo, faintness, or other 
 inconveniences. 
 
 For each stove there should^be a shovel, poker, and tongs : 
 likewise a coal-scuttle always at hand ; for if an anthracite 
 fire is allowed to get too low, it cannot be revived without 
 clearing out the whole contents of the stove, and resorting to 
 fresh kindlings, &c. Have also, hanging by a loop in a con- 
 venient place, a small calico or worsted holder, with which to 
 guard your fingers from burning, when opening the door ol 
 the stove. 
 
 Of the numerous varieties of cooking stoves, and of the 
 mode of managing each, it is impossible to attempt a descrip- 
 tion. They all find favour in some kitchens, and lose it in 
 others, according to the taste and habits of tho family and 
 
FUEL, FIRES, ETC. 127 
 
 the cooks. We have heard of the very same apparatus succeed- 
 ing admirably in one house, and failing entirely in another. 
 • We can, however, speak with certainty of the excellence of 
 a wood stove of the common ten-plate form, but having at tlie 
 far end of the top or upper plate, beyond the oven, a round 
 hole to which a g-riddle is fitted as a cover. There is also 
 another cover, but the cook may stand upright beside the 
 stove, and bake on this griddle batter cakes or any thing of the 
 kind. When the griddle is no longer wanted, it may be re- 
 placed, or the hole covered by a large block tin boiler, with a 
 steamer on the top. On the hearth of the stove is a place 
 where a gridiron for broiling can be set. Any thing may 
 be balked in the oven; and in a tin roaster, placed beside the 
 stove when hot, allowing it a longer time than when before an 
 open fire, meat or poultry can be roasted. With this stove 
 there is never the slightest difficulty, and no cook ever objects 
 to it, it being simple, manageable, and sure. The price (in- 
 cluding boiler and griddle) is generally from fourteen to twenty 
 dollars, according to its size. 
 
 CHARCOAL — ^Anthracite cannot be ignited without the 
 assistance of charcoal or of chips of dry wood. For this pur- 
 pose charcoal is much the best, and should always be used in 
 preference, when you live in a place where it can be easily 
 procured. If you are obliged to buy it in rainy weather, let 
 some of it for immediate use be dried before the fire, as if damp 
 It will not kindle well. Chips of wood cannot at all times be 
 conveniently obtained, and the frequent use of them will cause 
 soot to collect in the chimney ; which soot, if allowed to accu 
 mulate, may catch fire. 
 
 Servants should not be allowed to waste the charcoal : it is 
 only necessary to use it once a day, at the first kindling of the 
 
128 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 fire ; and for that purpose three or four pieces are amply suffi- 
 cient. Two barrels of charcoal, if properly managed, will be 
 quite enough for each ton of coal. « 
 
 Charcoal is extremely useful to burn in portable furnaces for 
 making sweetmeats, and cooking various little things. In 
 French cooking it is of great importance. 
 
 * The best portable furnaces are those of cast iron, being not 
 liable to crack, like those of clay or earthen, and not easily 
 overset; also in price they are but a trifle higher, while in 
 convenience and durability they are of tenfold superiority. 
 With a charcoal furnace sweetmeats may be made out of doors, 
 in the yard, or on the hearth of a chamber. Wherever charcoal 
 is burnt, the fresh air should be freely admitted, by keeping a 
 window-sash raised all the time ; the vapour being so delete- 
 rious, in a room closely shut up, as to cause certain death by 
 suffocation. The fumes of charcoal in a close apartment have 
 frequently proved fatal in a few minutes. The first sensation 
 is that of slight, but increasing weakness, followed by a giddi- 
 ness in the head and flush in the face and neck. The person 
 thus attacked should immediately escape into the open air, or 
 he will be seized with a drowsiness, followed by a sense of 
 suflfocation ; and if speedy relief is not obtained, death will 
 soon ensue. The usual remedies are, to throw cold water on 
 the head, and to take a quantity of blood immediately : also 
 applying mustard or hartshorn to the soles of the feet. 
 
 In places where much charcoal is burnt, it is well to keep a 
 large tub or bucket constantly filled with lime-water, which 
 will rapidly absorb the gas. The lime-water must be renewed 
 as soon as it becomes impure. This impurity will be known 
 by the carbonate of lime falling to the bottom. 
 
FUEL, FIRES, ETC. 12D 
 
 ANTHRACITE COAL.—In buying anthracite coal, (as in 
 most other things,) that of the best quality is eventually the 
 cheapest. It goes further, lasts longer, gives out more heat, 
 with less waste from slate-stones and ashes, and leaves better 
 cinders when it is extinguished ; and good cinders may always 
 be turned to account by burning them over again. 
 
 Endeavour to obtain coal that is hard, bright, and clean-look- 
 ing. When it appears soft, porous, of a rough, dull, and dirty 
 surface, and covered with a profusion of damp black dust, it is 
 never good, and will give out comparatively little heat, being 
 always choked with its own ashes ; also the cinders will be 
 found so flaky and slaty as to be nearly useless. 
 
 The most convenient size for coal is that which is callsd the 
 broken and screened; it making the best and handsomest fires. 
 The egg coal and nut coal (which is small) may be used in 
 close stoves, and in spring and autumfT, when much heat is not 
 required. 
 
 Three tons of the best anthracite will generally (if well ma- 
 naged) be found sufficient for one fire during the season ; at 
 least in the middle States. In the northern and eastern section 
 of the Union, where the winters arc longer and colder, a larger 
 allowance will be requisite. 
 
 The ashes of anthracite is of no use in making lye or soap. 
 When the ash-hole is full, a cart should be obtained to remove 
 and carry away its contents. 
 
 ANTHRACITE COAL GRATES.— The best anthracite 
 coal grates for draught and comfort, are those that are set with 
 only one aperture. Some grates are set with holes or openings 
 to convey the dust and ashes up the chimney or down into the 
 -rellar. By this means the draught is interrupted or divided, 
 ind the result is generally a dull, cheerless fire, and a difficulty 
 
130 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 in kindling it. There should be no aperture except that at th© 
 top, which in width ought not to exceed two inches and a half; 
 if wider, it will not draw so well. Broad shallow grates do not 
 heat the room as thoroughly as those that are deep. The 
 deeper the body of coal, the more perfectly it ignites, and the 
 more warmth it produces. The grate should not hang too low, 
 or its heat will soon burn out the pan beneath. The bars 
 should be rather straight than curved or bowed out, and not too 
 close together. Beads or knobs between the lower bars are 
 extremely inconvenient when it is necessary to use the poker, 
 to which they are such an impediment that they render it almost 
 impossible to clear out the ashes properly. Fortunately for 
 those who had to clean them, brass ornaments on coal grates 
 are now entirely exploded. They are only found on old-fash- 
 ioned grates, and then it is well to paint them black. The best 
 grates are of cast iron j*being more durable and retaining the 
 heat longer than those of sheet iron. 
 
 Every coal-grate should be furnished with a poker, shovel,^ 
 and tongs, (a blower of course,) a hearth-brush, and also a coal- 
 scuttle. A block tin bucket or deep iron pan for carrying away 
 the ashes will also be found indispensable, unless an old coal- 
 scuttle is used for this purpose. Ashes should never be put 
 into a wooden vessel, as there may be heat enough remaining 
 to set it on fire. There are ash-buckets of iron, with a strainer 
 or iron sieve fitting in about halfway up, for sifting the cinders 
 at once. 
 
 Care should be taken that the blower does not warp, or burn 
 into holes, by being kept on too long. It should not stand in 
 tne yard, as the damp will certainly rust it. When taken off 
 the grate, it will do no injury if placed at once against the 
 wall in the nearest passage or entry. A blower-holder of cloth 
 OT calico should he kept always in a convenient place, to 
 
FUEL, FIRE S, E T C. 131 
 
 prevent the handle of tlie hot blower from burning the hand. 
 For want of a proper holder, we have known a newspaper or a 
 handkerchief caught up to remove a very hot blower; and the 
 consequence was that the paper took fire, or the handkerchief 
 was irreparably scorched. The best and least inflammable 
 holders are made of folds of old flannel, covered with woollen 
 cloth, sewed round the edges, and slightly quilted or stitched 
 through. 
 
 A large coarse thick cloth of canvas, tow, woollen, or of some 
 very strong fabric, should be provided for the servant to lay 
 down in front of the grate before he makes the fire. This will 
 greatly assist in keeping the carpet clean, and on it he should 
 place his scuttle and other apparatus. The cloth should have 
 a stout, heavy binding all round, to make it lie smoothly and 
 "keep its place. 
 
 We have seen in some houses the hearth-rug turned wrong 
 side up to prevent the colours from fading from the heat of the 
 fire. This is not a good practice, as (independent of its very 
 bad appearance) the colours will be much more injured by the 
 dust and ashes that will unavoidably get under the rug, and be 
 thus ground into the nap of its right side. 
 
 The dross or crust that collects at the back of the grate 
 should be every morning scraped off with the tongs or poker ; 
 otherwise it will accumulate so as to become very inconvenient, 
 and very difficult to remove. 
 
 The dryness of atmosphere caused by the heat of anthracite, 
 is to many persons a source of great inconvenience. It may 
 easily be remedied by having a long deep narrow vessel of 
 sheet iron, lined with block tin, made to fit exactly the shelf 
 or top of the grate, and kept constantly filled with water. It 
 should be three inches or more in height, and may be painted 
 black on the outside. 
 
• 132 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 If you find the room very warm, and wish to increase the 
 evaporation of the water, you may do so by plunging into it 
 a red-hot poker. 
 
 The utensil generally called in England a footman, is very 
 convenient to hang in front of a coal grate, for the purpose of 
 heating any little thing that maybe required in an eating-room, 
 nursery, or chamber. There are common ones made of iron, and 
 a better sort of brass. They hook on to the bars of the grate, 
 and can be drawn out by a handle to the requisite distance 
 from the fire. Smoothing irons may be heated, a saucepan 
 boiled, water warmed, bread toasted, apples roasted, and a tea, 
 or coffee-pot, or a small kettle kept hot on a footman. The 
 expense of this article is a trifle, and the convenience great. 
 "We highly recommend it. 
 
 COAL GRATE FIRES.—Previous to making the fire, 
 remove the hearth-rug, and spread down in front of the grate a 
 large coarse cloth kept for the purpose. 
 
 The fire having been entirely extinguished over night, (or at 
 least long enough for the grate to become quite cold,) empty it 
 completely of all its contents ; first raking out the ashes ^y 
 inserting the poker underneath, between the bottom bars. Then 
 take out all the cinders, either with the tongs or with your 
 hands : the latter is the easiest way. and the most expeditious, 
 and your hands may be defended by a pair of coarse thick 
 gloves. As you take out the cinders, lay them aside for use : 
 you need not, of course, save those that prove to be pieces of 
 slate or stone, or that are only soft spungy flakes. If the coal 
 is of the best kind, very few bad cinders will be found amon 
 t. If the weather is extremely cold, it will be well when the 
 grate is empty, to burn in it an old newspaper or some straw ; 
 this will heat the chill air of the chimney, and the warm cur 
 
FUEL, FiRiiS, ETC. 133 
 
 rent will, by improving the draught, cause the fire to ignite the 
 sooner. 
 
 When the grate is entirely emptied, sweep it out clean with 
 a hearth-brush ; and once a week at least, wash it out with a 
 wet cloth. Remove the portable iron hearth from underneath, 
 and empty the ashes into an iron pan, or an old scuttle brought 
 for the purpose. * 
 
 To huild the /re.— First put into the bottom a very slight 
 layer of fresh hard coal from the scuttle, selecting pieces about 
 half the size of an ftgg, or rather smaller; this will prevent the 
 charcoal from falling through as it burns. Lay upon this 
 flooring of anthracite, a large shovel-full of bright live coals 
 from the kitchen fire. They should be selected with the tongs, 
 (so as to be free from ashes,) and carried in an iron fire-pan 
 with a lid, to prevent their spilling on the way. No house 
 should be without these fire-pans. 
 
 Having put on the live coals or kindlers, place over them 
 three or four good pieces of charcoal, laying their points or 
 ends together, so as to form a sort of pyramid. At the sides 
 and back of this charcoal put a few rather small pieces, of an- 
 thracite; and when that has ignited, fill up the grate, placing 
 hard coal in front and disposing of the cinders behind. Place 
 the largest pieces of anthracite on the top, and heap it up as 
 high as the back wall of the grate will allow. Afterwards, 
 put on the blower, (taking care that it fits in closely at the 
 bottom,) and let it remain till all the fuel in the grate is lighted, 
 and till blazes issue from between the coals at the top. 
 
 Let the servant that makes the fire employ himself about the 
 room or in its vicinity, till it is time to remove the blower, lest 
 he should forget and leave it up too long; in which case it 
 will become red-hot, and bend and warp, or nerhaps break; 
 also the inten.se heat will burn and bend the bars of the grate. 
 
 12 
 
134 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 and exhaust the coal too soon. If red spots begin to appeal 
 on the blower, it should be taken down immediately. When 
 on removing the blower, the mass of coal is found to have 
 sunk in consequence of the charcoal burning down, some more 
 large pieces of anthracite should be laid on the top. It may- 
 then be left to itself, till the usual hour for replenishing it; 
 but the fire should not be permitted to sink below the second 
 bar ; whenever it does so, it begins to deaden. If an anthracite 
 fire is allowed to get very low, it is extremely difficult to 
 revive; and there is generally no other way than to empty the 
 grate completely, and to kindle an entirely new fire, as in the 
 morning. 
 
 In winter, an anthracite fire should be replenished at least 
 every six hours ; and if the weather is very cold, and the grate 
 not large, it will require still more frequent attention. Gene- 
 rally, with a grate of good size it will be sufficient (the fire 
 having been made up early in the morning) to clear out the 
 ashes, and put on fresh coal about eleven o'clock ; then at six 
 in the afternoon. Whenever the fire is to be replenished, first 
 put up the blower to screen the mantel-piece and surrounding 
 furniture from the dust and ashes, and then rake underneath with 
 the poker till all is cleared out but the live coals. Then, with 
 the poker, work the cinders about over the holes of the upper 
 hearth, to let the ashes fall through into the under one ; and 
 rake between all the bars, so as to let down the burning coals, 
 and prevent hollows and large vacancies in the body of the 
 fire. Next, take off the blower, and put on the fresh coal. If 
 you have cinders, throw them on behind the hard coal, as they 
 disfigure the fire when placed in front. In putting on fresh 
 coal, slope it upwards from the top bar, so as to form a hilJ 
 behind, against the back wall. If the grate and coal are botb 
 good, and the fire has not been allowed to get too low, you nee^ 
 
FUEL, FIRES, ETC. 135 
 
 not, on replenishing it, put up the blower; as, after a while, it 
 will burn very well without it : and by using the biower too 
 often, or too long, you exhaust the coal, and diminish 'ts heat. 
 
 Let the hearth be swept every time that the fire is touched. 
 An ashy hearth is a slovenly and disagreeable object, giving an 
 uncomfortable aspect to the whole room. 
 
 In keeping up a good coal fire, regularity is indispensable. 
 Even if it does not look low, it should always be punctually 
 replenished at the stated hours ; and the servant should be 
 made to understand, that it is his business to do so, without 
 farther telling ; otherwise, there is much chance of its being 
 frequently neglected and forgotten. Except at the time for 
 regularly replenishing it, there is rarely any necessity of touch- 
 ing an anthracite fire. Injudicious poking and stirring will 
 put it out, instead of improving it. 
 
 To extinguish it completely at night, take the tongs, and lift 
 off the largest and best coals, one at a time, and lay them 
 in the hearth. Then rake up on each side, the live coals that 
 remain in the body of the grate; so as to form a deep hollow 
 in the middle, like a valley between two hills. By this last pro- 
 cess, (which is best eflfected with the point of the shut tongs,) 
 the most glowing fire will gradually blacken and die out in a 
 quarter of an hour ; and the grate will become quite cold ; so 
 that in the morning, it can be conveniently emptied, previous 
 to building the new fire. 
 
 If you wish a good fire in your chamber very early in the 
 morning, let it be extinguished in the above manner about 
 seven in the evening. About ten, or when all the cinders are 
 cold, let a servant clear out the grate completely, and build up 
 the morning fire, as before directed ; leaving the blower and the 
 scuttle in the room. If the grate is good, and the draught as 
 t should be, the whole of the fuel may be laid on at once, even 
 
136 THE HOUSE ROOK. 
 
 to piling on the fresh coal at the top. Some waste paper or 
 shavings should be put in with the charcoal. At daylight, the 
 occupant of the chamber can light the fire himself, by applying 
 a bit of paper to the flame of the night-lamp, or with a lucifer 
 match. Then, putting up the blower, he may return to bed; 
 and remain there till the fire is in successful progress ; wliich 
 will be in a very short time ; and on removing the blower, he 
 will have a warm room for washing and dressing himself. 
 
 The practice that prevails in many families of never allow- 
 ing their coal fires to be extinguished during the whole winter, 
 is not a good one. If the object is to save charcoal, we think 
 it will be found, on calculation, that the additional anthracite 
 required to keep up the fire all night, will more than balance 
 the expense of fresh kindling every morning ; and besides a per- 
 petual fire is almost perpetually dull and ashy. Also, the unre- 
 mitting heat produces cock-roaches, and other disgusting in- 
 sects ; and in summer, if a cc-al-fire is kept up all night in the 
 kitchen, it will add greatly tc the general warmth of the house"; 
 making the chambers in the ricinity of the kitchen unwhole- 
 some and almost intolerable. Another, and very palpable objec 
 tion is, that unless a coal-grate or stove is completely cleared out 
 once a day, by removing every particle of cinders and ashes, 
 and sweeping out the whole ha&ide with a brush, no poking or 
 raking that can be done, will prevent the fire from looking all 
 day, choked and ashy at the bottom, and there will be very 
 little glow even at the top, unless for a short time directly after 
 the removal of the blower; and of course the fire will not 
 throw out half as much heat as when burning clear and brightly 
 all through. The end of the poker should be curved or hooked. 
 
 Coal, to burn well in a grate, should not be smaller than an 
 figgi 01 larger than a moderate-sized orange. A skilfal fire- 
 maker will fit in the large and small pieces, so as to ."rjpsnrae 
 
FUEL, FIRES, ETC. 137 
 
 Doth to advantage. We have known this done by servants 
 who took great pride in the excellence of their parlour fires ; 
 for instance, a coloured man, who always assorted his coal, 
 and brought it up separately in two scuttles, reserving his 
 finest pieces for the front of the fire, and calling them his 
 facers. 
 
 Coal should not be thrown on from the scuttle. It is best 
 to put on the pieces with the hand, or with the tongs. There 
 are small iron tongs made for the purpose. There should be a 
 coal-scuttle for every fire-place. 
 
 Use the cinders as you go along, and let every grate consume 
 its own cinders, which may be freed from the ashes by working 
 them about with the poker or tongs on the upper or perforated 
 hearth. It will not then be necessary to carry them out to be 
 sifted ; and the servants will not then have a chance of throw- 
 ing them away to avoid the trouble of sifting. In some fami- 
 lies, however, where the servants can be depended on, it is the 
 custom (and a very good one) to have the cinders taken into the 
 yard and washed in an old bucket, pouring on water and then 
 draining it oflf. This makes them look black, and causes 
 them to bum better. 
 
 When the heat of an anthracite fire is too great, (for instance, 
 late in the spring or early in the autumn,) it can be diminisned 
 without extinguishing, by taking the tongs or poker and press- 
 ing down hard the coals on the top ; or by taking off a few of 
 the largest pieces ; or by throwing on, towards the back of the 
 grate, a small quantity of the fine powdered coal-dust, com- 
 monly called slack. Many persons, to diminish the heat, have 
 a thick paste of ashes and water prepared in the cellar, and 
 spread with a shovel over the top of the grate-fire. It forms a 
 crust, under which the fire will burn dimly all day. 
 
 In making a fire for the first time in the season, there is 
 
 12* 
 
138 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 mostly a difficulty from the coldness of the chimnev. This 
 may always be remedied, and the draught opened, by filling 
 the grate jvith old newspapers or other waste paper, (as before 
 mentioned,) and setting them on fire ; or, if more convenient, 
 you may make a blaze with a few handfuls of straw or shavings. 
 
 Anthracite fires, if managed exactly according to the preced- 
 ing directions, will be found more comfortable, more economi- 
 cal, handsomer in appearance, and in every respect more satis- 
 factory than if conducted in any other manner. This we know 
 by experience. 
 
 When the practice is persisted in of keeping up the fire all 
 night, the bottom should be raked and fresh coal put on the 
 last thing before going to bed. Some persons have the scuttle 
 left in the room, that they may replenish the grate at any time 
 in the night. Early in the morning, it should be well raked 
 with the poker, to clear out as much of the ashes as possible, 
 and then filled up to the top with fresh coal. Afterwards put 
 up the blower, and let it remain till all is well ignited. If, in 
 the morning, the fire that has been burning all night is found 
 very dull and low, it will be difficult to revive it without putting 
 on some bits of charcoal or small wood, and letting them burn 
 a while before the hard coal is added. 
 
 Never at any time put on fresh coal without first raking out 
 iJie bottom of the grate and between the lower bars with the 
 poker. You may, during the day, dispose of the ashes by 
 raising the upper part of the iron hearth, and letting them fall 
 down into the under part below. Then replace the upper or 
 perforated hearth evenly, and sweep it clean. 
 
 Upon no occasion (whether the fire is of wood or coal) 
 should the hearth be allowed to remain dirty or disfigured with 
 ashes. It will give a slovenly and miserable look even to the 
 most elegantly furnished apartment, while a clean, well-swept 
 
FUEL, FIRES, ETC. 139 
 
 hearth imparts an air of cleanness, neatness, and gentility to a 
 room of very moderate pretensions. An ever-dirty hearth, and- 
 a grate always choked with cinders and ashes, may be taken as 
 almost infallible evidence of bad housekeeping. 
 
 COAL STOVE FIRES.— To make a good new fire in a 
 close coal stove, begin by completely clearing out the pan or 
 place that holds the fuel, leaving no remains of cinders or ashes. 
 Put at the bottom a slight layer of small fresh coal, and then 
 a shovelful of clear, bright, glowing coals from the kitchen, 
 seeing that there is no ashes among them. On these live coals 
 you may lay three or four pieces of charcoal and some good 
 cinders, and then fill up the pan or pot with fresh hard coal, 
 heaping it on the top. The coal for a stove should be the egg 
 or nut size. Shut the large door of the stove, (leaving the little 
 one open,) and you will soon have a fine fire. 
 
 After a while it will sink, in consequence of the charcoal 
 having burned down : then directly put some more hard coal 
 on tlie top ; and be careful that the fire never gets too low, lest 
 it be found impossible to revive it without clearing out the 
 whole, and building it entirely anew. 
 
 If you cannot obtain charcoal, you may kindle with pieces 
 of dry wood split small, and laid on the hot coals with a hand- 
 ful of shavings or waste paper. 
 
 You may somewhat diminish the heat by closing the little 
 door, and thereby lessening the strength of the draught ; and 
 you may lessen it still more (and indeed gradually extinguish 
 the fire) by setting the large door wide open. You may, if 
 expedient, put out the fire, almost immediately, by parting it 
 on the top with the poker or tongs, so as to leave a deep hollow 
 in the centre. 
 
 In a small room, it is well to surroundHhree sides of a close 
 
140 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 Stove with one of the thick block-tin screens made for the pur- 
 pose. It will prevent the heat from injuring the wall or the 
 furniture. 
 
 A stove, as well as a grate, should be thoroughly cleared 
 out at least once in twenty-four hours. What is called a per- 
 petual fire, or such as many persons boast of continuing unex- 
 tinguished all winter, is wasteful of coal, and is never so bright 
 and strong as that which is entirely renewed every day, without 
 any remains of the old fire. If you wish a fine fire early in the 
 morning, let the stove be entirely emptied over-night, and the 
 new fuel laid or arranged in the manner described, the whole 
 Deing built at once, putting some shavings or w^aste paper with 
 the charcoal. Then, with a match lighted at a night lamp, 
 you may ignite it at dawn, or whenever you please ; and you 
 will have an excellent fire and a warm room to wash and dress 
 in, while the water in the tin pan on the top will have gradu- 
 ally become hot enough to use for any needful purpose. 
 
 If, however, you prefer keeping up the fire all night, having 
 raked the ashes well from the bottom, fill up with fresh coal 
 before you go to bed, and have the scuttle at hand to replenish 
 it, if you think proper. In the morning, rake it well out at the 
 bottom, and add fresh coal. If you find the fire very low and 
 dull, put on some charcoal, or chips, before filling it up with 
 the anthracite. 
 
 Be very careful that the joints of the stove-pipe fit tightly. 
 Should they happen to open or gape apart in the night, when 
 there is fire in the stove, the vapour escaping from the coal 
 may have the most deleterious effect (even to suffocation) on 
 persons sleeping in a close chamber. 
 
 On such occasions, when life is not entirely extinct, and a 
 physician cannot be procured immediately, animation may be 
 restored hy promptly resorting to the following remedies 
 
FUEL, FIRES, ETC 141 
 
 Open instantly the doors and windows, and allow the air to 
 pass freely over the face of the patient ; but keep his body 
 covered with the bed-clothes, under which let his skin be 
 rubbed hard, first with the hand, and then with warm cloths as 
 soon as they can be procured. Make him swallow as soon as 
 possible a half-tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, mixed in a tea 
 cup of boiling water, and administered whenever it is cool 
 enough to be taken without scalding the mouth. As soon as 
 he can eat, he should have food seasoned with plenty of pepper 
 and mustard. If he is made to inhale oxygen gas, he will 
 recover the sooner. 
 
 The pipe of a coal-stove should be taken down about once 
 a fortnight, for the purpose of clearing out the ashes that have 
 been drawn up into it; and which, if allowed to remain, will 
 impede the draught, and prevent the fire from burning well. 
 
 The coal for a close stove should be small. For a largo 
 stove, the egg coal ; for a small one, the nut. 
 
 BITUMINOUS OR ENGLISH COAL.— Coal found in 
 the western section of the United States, is generally bitumi- 
 nous; so also is that imported from England. It- is much 
 softer than the anthracite, emits more smoke, produces more 
 dust and ashes, and the heat is far less intense, though the blazb 
 is very bright. The grates used for burning it should be set 
 open, with the whole space vacant from the bars upwards, 
 instead of filling it up with fire brick, and leaving only a nar- 
 low slip or aperture, as for anthracite. To kindle the fire in 
 the morning, having cleared out the grate, spread a few good 
 cinders over the bottom ; then bring some hot coals from the 
 kitchen, and lay on them a few slips of pine wood : afterwards 
 fill up the grate with fresh coal from the scuttle j and blow with 
 a pair of bellows till the fire is well ignited. 
 
142 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 Or you may kindle it without live coals, by applying lo the 
 pine sticks lighted brimstone matches. 
 
 A fire of bituminous coal must be replenished much more 
 frequently than one of anthracite. When it looks dull and 
 has burnt hollow, stir it underneath with the poker, ana then 
 have some fresh coal put on. If you wish to keep it burning 
 slowly all night, throw on the top a suJEficient quantity of slack 
 or coal-powder from the cellar. 
 
 To extinguish it at night, take oiF the best coals, and then 
 rake out all the rest with the poker. If necessary, throw on 
 some water. For this coal use a straight poker. 
 
 In English houses, the servant that kindles the kitchen fire 
 is always provided with a tinder-box of tin, having on the lid 
 a socket which holds a piece of candle. This lid is made to 
 come off; and in the cavity of the box beneath, is kept a quan- 
 tity of tinder made from rags ; a flint, and a piece of steel with 
 a handle to it; also a few sulphur matches. Before daylight 
 in a winter morning, the fire-maker (having taken the tinder- 
 box up stairs with her) strikes out with the flint and steel a 
 few sparks, which, catching the tinder, enable her to ignite a 
 match, by which she lights the candle ; knd with the candle 
 she goes down and kindles the fire, by applying lighted matches 
 to some little slips of wood, which she places at the bottom of 
 the grate. 
 
 In this manner a fire of bituminous coal may be made, if 
 wanted, at any time in the night. 
 
 COKE. — This is the state in which the coal used in manu- 
 facturing gas is left, after the bituminous matter has been 
 extracted. It remains in large, light, porous, black lumps, and 
 IS a very convenient and economical fuel for spring and autumn, 
 and for rooms where only a moderate heat is required. It has 
 
FUEL, FIRES, ETC. 143 
 
 less vapour than any other coal, (being not oppressive even to 
 delicate lungs,) and can be ignited sooner ; making a bright, 
 jriowing, and cheerful fire, so similar in appearance to that of 
 anthracite, that few persons (unless they are told) can perceive 
 any visible difference. Though excellent for spring and autumn, 
 (as we know from experience,) and for the few chilly wet days 
 that occasionally occur in summer, we do not recommend coke 
 in those sections of the Union where the climate is severe : as to 
 keep up a large steady coke-fire in extremely cold weather, all 
 day and all the evening, will require the grate to be replenished 
 with as much as it can hold six or seven times, at least: and 
 still more frequently in a close stove. For the first early 
 autumn or late spring fires, one grate full of coke will be suffi- 
 cient for the day ; or for the evening, (if made on at dusk,) 
 heating the room so well at first, that it continues comfortable 
 long after the fire has died out. In families where an open 
 grate or range for coal, is used in the kitchen, coke has been 
 found very good fuel to cook with in the summer, causing much 
 less heat than anthracite in the lower part of the house ; and 
 it is so soon ignited in the morning, that its incapability 
 cf burning all night without replenishing, is little or no 
 disadvantage. 
 
 In Philadelphia (where coke is very cheap) it can be 
 obtained by application at the office of the Gas Company in 
 the Franklin Institute, paying always in advance. It is well 
 to order a cart-load at once, as the price for* hauling from the 
 gas-works is the same for ten bushels as for fifty. 
 
 To make a coke fire, let the grate be cleared completely, 
 raking out all remains of the last fire, and sweeping it clean 
 with a hearth brush. Then cover the bottom of the grate with 
 a slight layer of small bits of coke, (cinders will do,) ana 
 ■ place thereon a shovel full of bright, clear, live coals lor 
 
144 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 kindling. On these coals lay three or four pieces of charcoal, 
 (a very little will suffice,) or a few pieces of dry kindling wood, 
 split small. If you use wood instead of charcoal, it is w^ell to 
 add a few shavings or some waste-paper. Then fill up the grate 
 at once with coke, and put up the blower, fitting it closely in at 
 the bottom. In five minutes you may remove the blower, 
 without any risk of the fire not igniting well ; but if you leave 
 it up eight or ten minutes, you will, on removing it, find the 
 wiiole of the coke in a bright glow, and the room will be very 
 warm immediatel3\ 
 
 With coke, as with anthracite, (unless you intend it to die 
 out,) you must take care not to let the fire get too 16w in the 
 grate. In replenishing it, after filling up the grate with fresh 
 coke, rake between the bars, and then put on the blower for a 
 few moments, while you rake well at the bottom, till the ashes 
 is thoroughly expelled : then empty the iron hearth into the 
 ash-pan beneath, and remove the blower, as the fire will no 
 longer require it. Your poker should have a hooked end. 
 
 To extinguish the fire, lift off with the tongs any large pieces 
 of coke that inay still be burning; lay them on the hearth, 
 where they will die out immediately, and save them for cinders 
 to burn next day. Next, with the tongs or poker beat down 
 the mass of hot coals, and then part them in the centre, leaving 
 a deep hollow down to the bottom of the grate ; or, if they are 
 but few, work and stir them about a little, and they will soon 
 go out. 
 
 In winter, if you have both coke and anthracite, it is a good 
 way to make the earliest or morning fire of coke, (as it ignites 
 SO soon,) and then, when it has burnt down below the upper 
 bar, replenish with anthracite, continuing the hard coal durino 
 the day and evening. 
 
 On an iion footman or shelf, hooked on to the grate. 
 
« 
 FUEL, FIRES, ETC. 145 
 
 you may ^oon boil a tea-kettle or sauce-pan before a coke 
 fire 
 
 TO HEAT A BRICK OVEN.— Ovens should i»e heated 
 
 witn lin^ht dry wood. Cliesnut is best; but if it cannot be 
 
 procured, you may substitute pine. It must be split up small ; 
 
 not a stick being left thicker than your wrist. Faggots, or 
 
 bundles of dry slender branches gathered up in the woods, are 
 
 used for ovens when nothing else can be obtained. The oven 
 
 wood should be all ready the evening before it is wanted for 
 
 baking, that the oven may be heated early. In putting in the 
 
 wood, place it near the mouth or door of the oven, (for there 
 
 the draught is strongest,) and lay the sticks across each other 
 
 in a square pile, as children do when they play at building 
 
 houses. Put in sufficient oven wood at once ; for instance, a 
 
 large arm-full or more. The door of the oven must be left 
 
 open all the time the fire is burning. Kindle the wood with 
 
 some live coals and waste-paper, or shavings. After it has 
 
 been burning well for about a quarter of an hour, with a long 
 
 stick or pole push the fire farther back towards the centre of 
 
 the oven, and stir and quicken it occasionally. When .the fire 
 
 is reduced entirely to a bed of coals, and when the coals look 
 
 dull and whitish, as if dying out, remove them from the oven 
 
 with a large shovel or scraper. Next, take along stick, to one 
 
 end of which is fastened a coarse wet cloth, (a wet mop is still 
 
 better,) and with it wipe out the floor of the oven. Then let it 
 
 rest for about five minutes. To try the heat, throw in a piece 
 
 of paper, and if it burns instantly, the oven' is too hot, and you 
 
 must wait a little longer. A thermometer, held for a minute 
 
 within the oven, is a good regulator; but, after all, experience 
 
 is the best. The things to be baked should be quite ready by 
 
 the time the oven is hot. You must have a peel, or long-han 
 
 13 
 
146 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 died, broad, wooden shovel, to slip under them when you set 
 them in or take them out, that the heat may not burn your 
 hands. As soon as they are in, shut closely the door of the 
 oven. Pies and large loaf-cakes (except gingerbread, which 
 burns easily) require a hotter oven than bread. It is best to 
 bake the bread by itself; for it may be injured by letting in 
 the cold air, if you open the oven door to put in or take out the 
 other things. Once only will be sufficient to look at the bread 
 while it is baking. If the loaves contain a quarter of a peck 
 of flour each, they will require two hours at least to bake. 
 During that time, it will be only necessary to look at them 
 once, (which should be at the end of the first hour,) and then 
 turn them round, that they may bake evenly ; otherwise those 
 parts of them that are nearest to the j&re-place at the side of the 
 oven, will be done too much in proportion to the rest. It is 
 best always to bake bread in iron pans, sprinkled with flour, 
 or slightly buttered. When they are taken out of the oven, 
 wrap each loaf in a clean, coarse, wet towel, and stand them 
 up on end to cool gradually. This will prevent the crust from 
 becoming too hard. 
 
 If you are baking little cakes or tarts, look in at them in ten 
 minutes after they are put into the oven, to see if they are 
 nearly done. A large plum-cake or fruit cake will require 
 six or seven hours to bake ; and it should not be taken out till 
 the oven has grown quite cold. Indeed it will be the better 
 for staying in all night, keeping the oven closed. If a fruit 
 cake cools too fast after baking, it will become doughy and 
 heavy. Keep it covered with a cloth till quite cold. 
 
 The floor of an oven is best of tile, it being smoother than brick. 
 
 CHIMNEYS ON FIRE.— When you have reason to sup- 
 pose that a chimney is dirty, keep the fire low, as a large blazo 
 
FUEL, FIRES, ETC. 147 
 
 will be very likely to ignite the soot. Should it, nevertheless, 
 take fire, you will be immediately apprized of it by the loud 
 roaring noise, and the falling down of flakes of burning soot. If 
 there is no water in the room, have a bucket-full brought imme- 
 diately, so as to put out all the fire in the hearth; and while 
 waiting for the water, throw on all the salt that may be at hand ; 
 or, what will be still better, a handful of flour of sulphur, as soon 
 aa you can obtain it. The sulphur will frequently extinguish 
 even the fire in the chimney, if it has not yet become large. As 
 long as it is burning, take care to keep all the doors and windows 
 tightly shut, and hold up closely before the fire-place a blanket 
 or some other woollen article, for instance, a table-cover or 
 hearth-rug, so as to exclude the air. 
 
 If the roof is dry, let some persons go out at the trap-door, 
 carrying with them buckets of water to pour all round, so as 
 to prevent its catching from the sparks that issue from the 
 chimney. 
 
 In Philadelphia, any person that allows his chimney to get 
 on fire, is liable to a fine of five dollars ; it being one of the 
 regulations of the city, that all chimneys where wood is burnt 
 shall be swept once a month. 
 
 ACCIDENTS FROM FIRE.— Do not allow yourself to 
 contract the inexcusable habit of reading in bed at night. It 
 never fails to injure the eyes; but there is a still greater evil 
 attending it, the probability of your insensibly falling asleep, 
 and the light catching the bed clothes, and consequently, 
 endangering your own life, and perhaps setting the house on 
 fire. The head of the family should see that no one of its 
 members ever indulges in this senseless and sometimes fatal 
 practice. 
 
 In escaping from a room on fire, creep or crawl along with 
 
148 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 your face close to the ground, as near the floor the air is purest, 
 and there is less danger of bein^ suffocated with the smoke 
 Peisons frequently are saved by letting themselves down f?om 
 the window, by means of a knotted rope, or by sliding down 
 a sheet secured at one of the upper corners. . 
 
 Children may be saved from the flames of a burning house, 
 by means of large, coarse woollen bags, with a strong rope 
 attached to each : these bags should be kept constantly in the 
 sleeping-rooms, and in case of fire, a child may be put into 
 each, (leaving only a small breathing place open at the top,) 
 and then lowered dow^n from the window. 
 
 When a house is on fire, beds should be placed under the 
 wdndows, to receive the persons who are compelled to save 
 themselves by leaping out. 
 
 Children, in winter, should be dressed entirely in clothes of 
 woollen or worsted, as these are less liable to catch fire and 
 blaze, than linen or cotton. Even their aprons should be of 
 worsted ; for instance, bombazet or merino. Small children 
 should never be left alone in a room in which there is fire ; and 
 their sleeping apartments should, on no account, have the doors 
 locked. Every winter, we have at least one instance of a little 
 child perishing horribly, by the mother leaving it alone, tied in 
 a chair, and placed near the fire, while she is engaged in a 
 distant part of the house, or perhaps gone out on some errand. 
 This is a practice too dangerous for any circumstances to 
 excuse. So is that of the parents going out in the evening, 
 locking up the house, and leaving all the rest of the family in 
 bed. Such parents, on coming home, may find their house 
 on fire, andHheir children perishing in the flames. 
 
 If the dress of a female catches fire when she is alone, if she 
 cannot extinguish it by squeezing it in her hands, let her im- 
 mediately ring tbtj oeil violently, or knock on the floor; but, 
 
FUEL, FIRES, ETC. 149 
 
 if possible, avoid opening the door to run out, as admitting the 
 air, will increase the flame. She should throw herself directly 
 on the floor, and endeavour to smother the fire by wrapping 
 the hearth-rug closely round her, or by tearing up a part of the 
 carpet, if there is no woollen cloth at hand. 
 
 In some families a large piece of baize is kept in every room, 
 for the purpose of extinguishing accidental fire ; and the prac- 
 tice is a good one. In a chamber, a blanket can be immediately 
 snatched from the bed, and used for this purpose. A man may 
 smother out fire in the dress of a female, by taking off his cloth 
 coat, and wrapping it round her. 
 
 Children should be early taught how to squeeze or press out 
 a spark, when it happens to reach any part of their dress, and 
 also that running out into the air will cause it to blaze imme- 
 diately. They should also learn, that it is the nature of flame 
 to ascend or run upwards. 
 
 The first application to a burn should be sweet oil, putting 
 it on immediately, till other remedies can be prepared. Cotton 
 should never be applied. It increases the pain and inflammation. 
 For a slight burn or scald, some raw potato scraped fine, and 
 tied on the place, (renewing it at intervals,) is an excellent 
 remedy, and a very agreeable one to the sufferer. 
 
 It is extremely diflScult to get a horse out of a stable that is 
 on fire. It is said, that the best way is to accoutre him, as 
 speedily as possible, in the harness or saddle he is accustomed 
 to wearing, and when he feels it on him, he will think he ought 
 to go ; at the same time blindfolding him, by bandaging his 
 eyes, or throwing a blanket, a coat, ox something of the sort 
 entirely over his head. Some years since one of the principal 
 livery stables in Philadelphia took fire, and all the horses (we 
 believe fifty in number) were saved by blindfolding them. 
 Unless their eyes are covered, so that they cannot see 
 
 13* 
 
150 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 the fire, they will run into it in the wildness of their 
 terror. 
 
 BURN SALVE. — Simmer together till quite melted (stir- 
 ring them well) a piece of Burgundy pitch the size of a hick- 
 ory-nut, a piece of yellow bees-wax of equal size, and a gill 
 of sweet oil. When cool, spread some of the salve on a soft 
 linen rag, and fasten it on the burn or scald ; which, while 
 the salve is preparing should be kept wet with sweet oil. 
 Lime-water, procured from the druggist's and beaten up with 
 sweet oil, is an excellent ointment for bums. 
 
 TO EXTRACT A SPARK OF COAL FROM THE 
 EYE. — In travelling on rail-roads, particles of cinder from the 
 chimjiey of the locomotive frequently fly into the eyes of pas- 
 sengers, causing intolerable pain, and, if not very soon extracted, 
 producing inflammation. A trifling spark may sometimes be 
 expelled from the eye, by pulling down with your fingers the 
 lower eyelid, and at the same moment blowing your nose very 
 hard. If this does not succeed, at the first stopping-place 
 procure a bristle from a sweeping-brush, and tie its two ends 
 together with a thread, so as to form a loop. Then let some 
 one who has a steady hand insert this loop under your eyelid, 
 and pass it carefully all round the eye. The loop will catch 
 the particle of cinder and bring it out. If not successful at the 
 first attempt, persist in it, and it will, in almost all cases, 
 eventually extract the spark. 
 
 Another way (but a less easy one) is, after wrapping the corner 
 a soft cambric handkerchief round the head of a pin, to let some 
 efficient person (a medical man, if one is at hand) insertit care- 
 tully beneath the eyelid, and witli it sweep all round the inside of 
 
FUEL, FIRES, ETC. 151 
 
 the eye. This (repeating it, if necessairy) will most probably 
 bring out the bit of cinder. 
 
 An eye-stone (to be obtained at the druggist's) will also 
 remove troublesome substances. 
 
 If the eye inflames afterwards, it will be well to have the 
 lower part of the eyelid punctured on the inside with a lancet, 
 so as to draw blood from it ; and to have a small blister imme- 
 diately applied behind the ear, for the purpose of exciting a 
 counter-irritation. Also to take a dose of cooling medicine 
 It is best, however, to have recourse as soon as possible to a 
 physician. 
 
 A particle of iron or steel (if not too deeply imbedded in 
 the eye) may be removed from the surface by the applica- 
 tion of a powerful magnet. This we know to have been tried 
 with success. 
 
 FIRE-SCREENS. — Where there is a grate or an open 
 stove, fire-screens are indispensable to comfort, and no room 
 should be without one. The best are those with three slides. 
 They are tall, upright frames of mahogany or other handsome 
 wood, with heavy feet, moving on castors. The three compart- 
 ments are square or rather oblong frames, covered with fluted 
 or radiated silk. Two of these compartments are made to slide 
 out from the sides of the principal frame, so as to add to the 
 breadth of the screen when necessary : the third one slides 
 upward to give it additional height. If the covers are of silk 
 or damask, the colour should correspond with those of the 
 curtains and other furniture. 
 
 The most usual parlour screens are upright frames of ma- 
 hogany, standing (as all fire screens should) on heavy substan 
 lial feet, to prevent accidents from oversetting. The screen 
 part, which extends about halfway down, is a square frame 
 
1 52 THE H(?USE BOOK. 
 
 covered with silk, fluted or radiated ; and along its base is a 
 shelf broad enough to hold a book or a few sewing imple- 
 ments. 
 
 Instead of silk, fire-screens for libraries and chambers may 
 be covered with varnished maps, pictures, comic drawings or 
 prints, riddles, conundrums, &c. 
 
 A plain, cheap fire-screen for a bed-room, nursery, or kitchen, 
 may be made of common wood, (any carpenter will do it,) and 
 you can furnish it yourself with a cover of green moreen, or 
 any other stuff that is dark and durable. It must be a tall 
 upright frame, about a yard and a half high and a yard in width, 
 made exactly like a large towel-horse, with ends or knobs 
 rising above the top bar. There should be another cross bar 
 about halfway down, to strengthen the frame. The cover 
 should be a double piece of stuff, made to slip over the frame, 
 and of sufUcient length to descend to the floor, sewed at the 
 sides about halfway down ; the remainder hemmed and left 
 open, so as to form two large flaps, which can be fastened up 
 at pleasure with strings of ribbon or worsted ferret, or with 
 loops and buttons, when you wish the warmth of the fire to 
 reach your limbs. Again ; if, in sitting very near the grate, 
 you desire to guard your dress from the danger of being dis- 
 coloured by the heat, you can let down the two flaps, and have 
 your whole person protected by it. When not wanted as a 
 fire-screen, you may remove the cover, and use the frame as a 
 clothes-horse for drying muslins and other small articles. 
 
 It is always best to stand the fire-screen in a sideway posi- 
 tion. It can be so placed as to shelter you effectually from the 
 heat, without being itself exposed to the injury it may sustain 
 from standing with its full front in face of the fire. 
 
 Hand-screens should not be forgotten in furnishing a room. 
 They should be large enough to shade the face completely, and 
 
FUEL, FIRES, ETC. 153 
 
 may be made very handsome by a young lady of good taste and 
 ■well skilled in drawing. The usual foundation for such hand- 
 screens is very thick pasteboard or very thin wood. The 
 covers are of fine paper, ornamented with drawings, and pasted 
 on very smoothly, the edge being finished with a border or 
 binding of gold paper. We have seen beautiful fire-screens, 
 having in the centre an excellent oval drawing in Indian ink, 
 encircled with a wreath of flowers done in colours, w^hich 
 looked the brighter from being contrasted with the darkness of 
 the centre-piece. There are very amusing' hand-scrreens, 
 covered with a variety of comic drawings, or with conundrums, 
 &c., handsomely and legibly written. All paper screens 
 should be coated with transparent varnish, otherwise they will 
 soon become soiled and discoloured. 
 
 Large fe^ither fans are good substitutes for hand-screens. 
 
 CHAIR-SCREENS. — To make a very good chair-screen, 
 get a large sheet of the thick stiff pasteboard used by bookbind- 
 ers and trunk-makers, (of whom it can be obtained,) and with 
 a knife pare off the edges and trim it to the required size. It 
 should ascend sufficiently above the back of the chair to screen 
 the neck and shoulders of the sitter. Make a double case (like 
 a pillow-case) of dark chintz or moreen, open at one end, to 
 slip over the pasteboard. At each of the lower corners, sew a 
 strong string of stout ribbon or worsted tape, and place tw^o 
 other strings about half a yard farther up, on the side edges or 
 seams of the cover. When the cover is finished, slip it over 
 the pasteboard, and sew it along the bottom edge, to keep the 
 board from falling out. When ready for use tie it by the 
 strings to the outside of the back of the chair. Three or 
 four of these screens will be found very convenient in dinino-- 
 rooms, to screen from the heat the backs of those persons who 
 
154 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 sit on the side of the table next the fire. Also, they will save 
 the chairs from being scorched and blistered. 
 
 You may have slighter chair-screens, by simply making 
 cases of thick moreen, without pasteboard; leaving the lower 
 end open to slip down over the chair-back. 
 
 A NURSERY STOVE-FENCE.— When there is a stove 
 in a nursery, there is much danger of children receiving severe 
 burns by running or falling against it. This danger may be 
 effectually obviated (as we have seen) by getting a carpenter to 
 make a square railing or fence to surround the stove ; with a 
 gate which the nurse can open and enter when she wishes to 
 do any thing to the fire. To prevent a very small child from 
 creeping under the fence, or a larger one from climbing over 
 it, the space at the bottom, between the lower bars, should be 
 closely filled in with lattice- work. 
 
 It is well to have similar gates at the top of the staircase, 
 in the nursery part of the house. 
 
 If a young child is provided with a large substantial rag-doll 
 to take to bed with him, he will seldom be unwilling to go to 
 bed, even when wide awake. He will pet and talk to the 
 rag-baby till he goes quietly to sleep. These are the best 
 and most satisfactory dolls for small children. 
 
155 
 
 L I Ci H i S, &c 
 
 LAMP OIL. — The best lamp oil is that which is clear and 
 neany colourless, like water. None but^ the winter-strained 
 oil should be used in cold weather. Thick, dark-coloured oil 
 burns badly, (particularly if it is old,) and there is no economy 
 in trying to use it. Unless you require a great deal every 
 night, it is well not to get more than two or three gallons at a 
 time, as it spoils by keeping. Oil that has been kept several 
 , months will frequently not burn at all. When that is found to 
 be the case, it is best to empty it all out, clean thoroughly the 
 can or jug that has contained it, and re-fill it with good 
 fresh oil. 
 
 There are large oil-vessels with cocks, and keys belonging 
 to them. 
 
 CLEANING AN OIL-CAN.— Having thoroughly emptied 
 it of the dregs of the oil, fasten a rag to the end of a stick, and 
 with it scrub or wipe round the inside and bottom, till you 
 have got out all the sediment. Next, wash out the can, by 
 pouring in a lather of brown soap and warm water, rubbed 
 about with a clean rag on the stick ; and having rinsed it well 
 with cold water, turn it up to drain. 
 
 Clean the outside of the tin with whiting wet with water, 
 and rubbed bright with a rag. Then fill it with clear fresh oil. 
 
 ANOTHER WAY. — After emptying the oil-can, and remov- 
 tng the sediment from the bottom, as above, by means of a rag 
 
156 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 fastened to a stick, fill the can with warm water, in which a 
 large table-spoonful of pearl-ash has been melted. Put on the 
 cover, and let it stand all night. Then rinse it out with two 
 or three warm waters, and put it to drain. Then fill it anew. 
 
 If the inside of an oil-can is allowed to collect sediment 
 without frequent cleaning out, it will spoil the fresh oil that is 
 put in, and cause it to burn badly. 
 
 Always keep the oil-can on an old waiter, or something o( 
 the sort, to receive whatever grease may come from it 
 
 ASTRAL LAMPS. — In buying astral lamps for the table, 
 choose the shades of plain gi'ound glass, as they give the clear- 
 est and steadiest light, and are best for the eyesj particularly 
 when employed in reading, writing, or needlework. Lamp 
 shades painted in bright colours are now" considered in very 
 bad taste, and are nearly exploded in genteel houses. The 
 fashion of having the shades decorated with flowers or othei 
 devices, cut on the glass and left transparent, is also on the 
 decline: and most fortunately, as it is a very bad one for lamps 
 that are intended for useful rather than ornamental purposes ; 
 though it may do well enough for mantel-lamps and lustres. 
 The transparent flowering breaks and distracts the light, and 
 its scattered brightness glitters in the eyes, and is eventually 
 very pernicious to them, though it may not seem so at first ; 
 also the irregularity with which it falls renders the light much 
 less easy for reading or sewing than the soft, stead}'^, uniform 
 rays from a shade of plain ground glass. For lighting up pic- 
 tuTes, flowered shades should on no account be used, as they 
 will destroy the cflTect of the painting. 
 
 To buy table astral lamps of inferior size, is by no means 
 advisable. They only give light in proportion to their magni- 
 tude; and when they are small and low, the effort of seeing by 
 
LIGHTS, ETC. 157 
 
 them is so teazing to the optic nerve, that the eyes, however 
 strong originally, seldom fail to become weak in consequence. 
 It is also false economy, to diminish the light, by keeping the 
 lamp low, for the purpose of saving a little oil ; as many have 
 discovered, when too late; after their eyes were irreparably 
 injured by this foolish practice. 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF ASTRAL LAMPS— Use none but 
 the best oil, as that of inferior price and quality will be found 
 more inconvenient than economical. Except in warm weather, 
 the winter strained oil is the only sort that is fit for lamps, as 
 it is not liable to chill ; and when chilled, no oil will burn. It 
 should look clear and limpid like water. Do not buy too much 
 oil at once, as it frequently spoils by keeping, so as to become 
 useless. For iilling the lamps, have a covered tin pot or can 
 with a long spout turned upvAards at the point, lest it should 
 drip after pouring. Keep a distinct oil-can for the parlour lamp. 
 Choose firm light-woven wicks, fine in texture, and with even 
 edges. Coarse, flimsy, loosely-woven wicks, absorb more oil 
 than the flame will consume ; and consequently, the cup or 
 reservoir being too full of oil, the air-holes are choked, and the 
 flame blazes out at the top of the glass chimney, so as to en- 
 danger its cracking. Keep the wicks in a place where they 
 will be clean and dry ; and always have in the house some extra 
 lamp-glasses or chimneys, to be ready in case of accidents. 
 They also should be perfectly dry. 
 
 No one should trim lamps with damp fingers. 
 
 It is well to have a small basket for the purpose of contain- 
 ing whatever is necessary for trimming the lamp. Across the 
 top of the basket, (which should have side handles,) let there 
 be fastened two tight strings of thick twine, to support the 
 shade er globe of the lamp when you take it off. The lamp 
 
158 THE HOUSE 13O0K. 
 
 scissors should be very sharp, or it will be impossible to tiim 
 the wick properly. 
 
 A lamp that is nig^htly in use should be trimmed and 
 replenished regularly every morning", otherwise there will be 
 no certainty in its burning, and it will go out unexpectedly at 
 any time in the evening, leaving the room in darkness. After 
 you have removed the shade and the glass chimney, raise the 
 wick by turning the screw towards the right hand, and cut off 
 with the lamp-scissors, or nip off with your thumb and finger 
 the edge of the wuck that has been burning the night before ; 
 but do not trim it too closely, or you will find it difficult to 
 light again. It is sufficient, barely to cut off the rim of the 
 brown crust. When you find that the wick is reduced by 
 burning, to only about an inch and a half in length, it is time 
 to take it out and put in a new one. In winter, a new wick 
 will be required once a week ; in the short summer evenings, 
 it will of course last longer. Always do the wick before the 
 oil. Clean out every morning, the cup or candlestick part that 
 catches the droppings. Wipe out with a clean soft cloth, (for 
 instance, an old napkin, or old silk handkerchief,) the glass 
 chimney, and the shade ; and dust well their outsides, and also 
 every part of the lamp. Then replace it on the table to be 
 ready for evening. 
 
 When you light it, remove the shade and the chimney, and 
 ignite the wick with a paper match, a supply of which should 
 always be kept in some convenient place. They should be 
 made of waste writing paper cut into long slips, and folded, 
 and creased very hard. If of newspaper or any other that is 
 not stiff enough, the flame will run along them so fast as to 
 endanger your fingers. As soon ^ the wick is ignited all round. 
 put on the chimney and the shade, turn the screw to the right 
 and raise the licrht at once to the heisfht at which it i» 
 
LIGHTS, ETC. 159 
 
 continue through the evexung. The practice of keeping the 
 wick low for a considerable time after it is lighted, is a bad 
 one, as by doing so a crust forms round it which dims the light 
 for the whole evening. Take care, however, not to raise the 
 light so high as for tlie flame to blaze out at the top of the chim- 
 ney, as that will certainly crack the glass, unless it is let down 
 immediately by turning the screw to the left. When you 
 wish to extinguish the lamp entirely, turn the screw to the left 
 as far as it will go. 
 
 When you are about lighting an astral lamp, see that your 
 fingers have no wet or damp on them. 
 
 Once a week the chimney and shade of the lamp should be 
 washed out well with luke-warm soap-suds, then rinsed in 
 clean water, and wiped and dried thoroughly. 
 
 The lamp should be taken to pieces, and undergo a complete 
 cleaning once a month. To clean it: after it is all taken apart, 
 empty the reservoir over the kitchen sink, throwing out what- 
 ever oil is in it. Have ready, in a pitcher, a pint of warm 
 water, in which has been dissolved a large table-spoonful of 
 pearl-ash. Pour this into the reservoir, and let it stand about 
 three hours, shaking it round frequently. Then pour it out, 
 and rinse the reservoir several times with clean w^arm water ; 
 for if any of the pearl-ash remains, it will form with the oil a 
 sort of soap, and prevent its burning. Drain the reservoir tho- 
 roughly, by turning it upside down, and letting it stand awhile 
 on a plate. Take care that the pearl-ash touches no part of 
 the outside of the lamp. 
 
 If the frame and stand of the lamp is plated, clean it but sel- 
 dom, and then use powdered whiting of the finest kind or pre- 
 pared chalk, made into a paste with whiskey, and rubbed on 
 with a soft flannel. Then finish with a buckskin, and brush 
 out the rough or embossed parts with a clean tooth-brush. 
 
160 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 If the stand or frame of the lamp is of bronze, clean it by 
 merely nibbing it well with a soft dry cloth. The same if it 
 is gilt. 
 
 When every part has been thoroughly cleaned, replenish it 
 with fresh oil and fresh wick, and put the lamp together. 
 
 When all your lamps (mantel, &c.) have been in use for 
 company, they should next morning be emptied completely of 
 oil and wIwK, and washed out with luke-warra pearl-ash and 
 water. If the oil and wick are left in them, verdigrease will 
 accumulate, which, when they are lighted again, will cause 
 them to smoke instead of burn. The oil that is taken from 
 these lamps should be put into a can and saved to use for the 
 kitchen. On the day of your next company, (and not till then,) 
 replenish them anew. Unless a lamp is used nightly, no oil 
 and wick should be left in it, even for a single day. 
 
 ENTRY LAMPS. — Entry lamps should be trimmed every 
 morning, and lighted as soon as the sun has set; as at that time 
 the hall or entry is always so dark, that no one can find their 
 way through it without difficulty. Where the drawing-room 
 IS up stairs, there should be a second lamp, to light the stair- 
 case and the upper passage. 
 
 After the large entry lamp is extinguished, on the family 
 going to bed, a small brass lamp should be kept burning all 
 night, on a table in the passage, or landing-place of the lower 
 stairs, that a light may always be at hand, in case of any per- 
 son being taken suddenly ill. 
 
 In houses that stand somewhat back from the street, with a 
 little garden in front, it is well (particularly when visiters are 
 expected) to place a lamp on a shelf fixed for the purpose, in 
 the fan-light over the front door. This will light the guests 
 on their way from the gate to the door-step, and is a great con- 
 
^ LIGHTS, ETC. IGl 
 
 venience on a dark or wet night. Most of the best houses have 
 permanent lamps at the foot of the door-sleps. 
 
 Hall lamps of stained glass are very elegant, their colours 
 throwino- a beautiful tint on the walls and floors 
 
 LAMP-RUGS.— These are small square rugs, to prevent 
 the feet of the lamps from marking the table. The cheapest 
 are made of oil-cloth, lined underneath with green baize, and 
 bordered with a very thick worsted fringe, which may be 
 bought, by the yard, at the trimming stores. The handsomest 
 lamp-rugs are worked on canvas with crewels of different 
 colours; the centre done in cross-stitch or queen-stitch, and the 
 edo-e decorated with a standing border, or wreath of flowers 
 ingeniously made of crewel. Some have a high close border 
 all rd^d, imitating velvetor plush. This is made by working 
 the crewel over a mesh, or straight slip of wood, (like a ruler,) 
 about an inch and a half broad, so as to form successive rows 
 of long loops, with an interval of two or three threads of canvas 
 between each row. When all is done, the loops are cut by 
 running scissors through tHem ; and then the surface is evenly 
 sheared, so as to resemble very thick velvet. The needles used 
 for this work should be large and blunt-pointed, like bodkins, 
 and the crewel should be put into them three or four double, in 
 very long needlefuls. Hearth-rugs worked all over in this 
 velvet stitch, on very coarse canvas, are extremely rich and 
 beautiful, and of the greatest durability. 
 
 In doing worsted work, you will find very convenient a 
 receptacle for the needles, as you must have a separate needle 
 for every shade of the crewel. A very simple contrivance for 
 -this purpose, is to take a gallicup, or something else that has 
 a riJge round the top, and tie over it a bit of canvas. Keep 
 this beside you to stick your needles in while at w«rk. 
 
 1-1* 
 
162 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 CHAMBER LAMPS. — Small japanned lamps are the mo 
 convenient for carrying up and down stairs, and for lighting to 
 bed. They should be regularly replenished every morning, by 
 unscrewing the top and filling them up with oil, first adding a 
 new wick, if necessary. The wick, should be about a quartei 
 of a yard in length ; and unless the lamp is kept burning all 
 the evening, it will not require renewing for three or four days 
 The wick is put in by drawing it through the socket, and 
 should be pulled up at the top with a pin to a convenient 
 height for lighting. The grocers sell it in balls. 
 
 Every evening before dusk, as many of these bed-lamps as 
 may be wanted by the members of the family, should be ranged 
 on a japanned waiter, with a brass lamp of larger size burning 
 in the middle, and a few paper matches placed on one side. 
 The waiter of lamps should be kept on a small table (or on 
 shelves connected by a frame) at the first landing-place of the 
 stairs, or in a recess or retired part of the hall or entry below. 
 By this convenient arrangement, every person' that wants a 
 lamp can supply himself at once, without waiting to ring 
 for a servant to bring one, and can light it conveniently without 
 coming into the parlour for the purpose. Lighting a small one 
 at an astral lamp requires more dexterity and more nerve than 
 falls to the lot of many persons ; as, when the match is inserted 
 into the glass chimney, the flame runs up instantly to the hand, 
 and there is danger of dropping it on the carpet, before it can 
 be carried to the hearth. All this difficulty is obviated by 
 keeping a lamp-table in a place convenient to the parlour, with 
 a lamp always burning, by which to light the small ones when- 
 ever they are wanted. 
 
 Tlie long or ball wick used for common lamps may be much 
 improved by cutting it into pieces several yards long, steeping 
 them in a cup of vinegar, then spreading them out to dry, and 
 
LIGHTS, ETC. 163 
 
 when quite dry winding them on a card. The steeping .in 
 vinegar will cause the wick to give a clearer and better light, 
 and when blown out it is extinguished immediately, leaving 
 no smoke or disasrreeable smell. 
 
 KITCHEN LAMPS— Should be of brass or block tin, 
 with broad bottoms like chamber candlesticks. They also 
 should be kept clean and replenished every day. 
 
 LANTERNS. — Every house should be provided with one 
 or more lanterns to carry out of doors at night, or to take into 
 a stable, barn, or any other place where an uncovered candle 
 or lamp might be dangerous. 
 
 Lanterns with glass sides are so easily cracked that we do 
 not recommend them. They are much better when glazed 
 with horn, or perforated all over with small holes. If they 
 have lamps in them, care should be taken to trim and replenish 
 these lamps daily, that the lantern may always be ready if 
 wanted at night. It is best to get a lantern with a socket at 
 the bottom, so that either a lamp or a piece of candle can be 
 placed in it, as may be most convenient. The piece of candle 
 must not be very long, or it will heat the top of the lantern so 
 as to burn the fingers of the person that carries it. 
 
 The small lamps used for placing in the sockets of lanterns 
 are like those without bottoms or stands, that are made to place 
 in broad kitchen candlesticks. 
 
 FLOATING TAPERS.— To burn all night in a chamber 
 no lights are so cheap and so convenient as floating tapers 
 In travelling, it may be found (.f great advantage to put iv 
 your trunk a small box of them containing also the float, oi 
 
164 THE HOUSE BOOK 
 
 little apparatus of tin and cork, that supports them in the oil. 
 When you stop for the night, ask for an old tea-cup or some- 
 thing of the sort filled with lamp-oil, on the top of which place 
 the float with a taper on it. Set the light in the chimney, and 
 if you are incommoded by its beams, faint as they are, it is 
 easy to accustom yourself to sleep with a silk handkerchief or 
 a broad ribbon tied over your eyes. In the morning remember 
 to take the float out of the cup, wipe it, and return it to the 
 taper-box, that you may have it ready for the next night. The 
 little tin pliers or tweezers, that come in the box, are used for 
 taking the tapers off the float. 
 
 The best floating tapers (as we have found) are those with 
 wooden bottoms, iand of the smallest size. They come in 
 boxes with a London mark. The box contains a little pair of 
 pliers, a float, and tapers enough to burn every night for several 
 months : the cost is generally but twenty-five cents, and no 
 light consumes so small a quantity of oil. 
 
 As it is not well to waste any thing, however cheap, we 
 recommend, in families who find it necessary to economize 
 in trifling expenses, that the wooden bottoms of the floating 
 tapers shall not be thrown away in the morning after the light 
 is extinguished. Let them be saved in an old- box kept at hand 
 for the purpose, and when a box full is thus collected, they 
 can be used over again by furnishing them with fresh wicks, 
 made as follows : 
 
 To renew Jloating tapers. — Having saved a sufficient quan- 
 tity of old bottoms belonging to tapers that have been used, 
 wipe them clean one by one, and spread them out on a sheet 
 of coarse paper. Melt some white wax, and take some of the 
 very finest or smallest white cotton cord, such as is scarcely 
 thicker than a coarse thread. Having melted the wax, dip the 
 cord into it while hot, so as to cover it completely with a coal* 
 
LIGHTS, ETC. 165 
 
 ing of the liquid. Then dry it in the open air, and when quite 
 dry and stiff, cut it into pieces of equal size about an inch in 
 length, and put them through the holes of the old taper-bot- 
 toms, leaving a little bit beneath or on the under side to be 
 turned up, and pressed hard against the wood with your finger, 
 so as to stick fast and secure the wick from slipping out. 
 Put the tapers' into a box, and keep them for use. 
 
 NIGHT LAMPS. — There are a variety of lamps for burn- 
 ing all night in chambers ; an excellent custom, which fre- 
 quently prevents much inconvenience, particularly in cases of 
 sudden illness. In every house it is well to have a lamp 
 burning the whole night, in at least one of the rooms. Many 
 persons are unwilling to sleep in a lighted room, thinking that 
 the sight of the objects all around will disturb them, and that 
 none of the shaded lamps sufficiently obscure the light. To 
 obviate this objection, we know of no better contrivance than 
 a floating taper placed in a cup of oil, and shut up in a small 
 dark lantern ; such as may be purchased at a tin-store for fifty 
 or seventy-five cents. If there is a socket in the bottom of the 
 lantern, it had best be taken out, that the oil-cup may set 
 steadily on the floor. A little six-cent tin cup is the best thing 
 to hold the oil; with which having filled it, place on the sur- 
 face one of the cork-floats that come in the taper-boxes, and 
 every night set a taper on the float. 
 
 After the taper is settled in the centre of the cork float, ignite 
 it by holding a lighted paper-match to its side ; place the cup 
 of oil on the floor of the dark lantern, (which should set on the 
 hearth,) and shut up the door. There will be a sufficient glim- 
 mering through the air holes at the top, just to show where it 
 is, and if at any time in the night you should want a larger 
 portion of light, you can open the dcor of the lantern or slide 
 
166 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 up one of the tin shutters at the side. If you have occasion 
 to light a candle or lamp from the floating taper, take the oil- 
 cup out of the lantern and set it on a' small plate or saucer kept 
 on the hearth for the purpose, and apply a paper match to it 
 A supply of paper matches should be kept in every room. 
 
 In the morning blow out the taper, and let the oil-cup be put 
 away on the plate, for if lifted in the lantern' it may spill. 
 
 If there is no chimney in the room, and the weather will not 
 permit a window-sash to be raised, the vapour of any night 
 light will be unwholesome to sleepers — therefore set it outside 
 of the room-door on an old waiter. 
 
 You may remove oil-grease from a hearth, by covering it 
 immediately with thick hot ashes or with burning coals. When 
 thus swept off, if the oil is not quite gone, spread some more 
 hot ashes, or a little Wilmington clay, or fuller's earth. 
 
 VERY CHEAP FLOATING TAPERS.— From a ball of 
 common lamp-wick unwind a yard or two, of which you must 
 take three threads. Have ready a piece of wax about the size 
 of a large walnut, either common bees-wax, or the ends of 
 wax candles heated a little and squeezed together into a solid 
 lump. Take a tin cup or a small sauce-pan filled with water 
 that is boiling hot. Throw into it the lump of wax, and when 
 it is melted and floats on the top of the water, dip in the wick, 
 curling it about in the melted wax. When the wick is suiFi- 
 ciently coated, withdraw it, and hold it up to drain and con- 
 geal; then lay it on a plate. When quite cold, cut it, with 
 Bcissors, into bits about three-quarters of an inch in length, 
 (not larger, or they may smoke,) and put them away in a box. 
 
 For using these wicks you must have one of those large 
 circular cork floats, that are covered all over the surface with 
 hn to keep the cork from burning. They come in some of the 
 
LIGHTS, ETC. 16** 
 
 /mported boxes of floating tapers. Put the wick through the 
 small hole in the centre of the float, pressing or plastering the 
 lower end against the under side of the cork, to prevent its 
 slipping out through the bottom. Set this taper in a cup of the 
 oest oil, and it will burn well all night. Next night put a 
 fresh wipk into the float. 
 
 This will be found the most economical of night lamps. 
 
 CANDLES. — Candles improve by keeping for a few 
 months ; those made in winter are the best. The most econo- 
 mical as well as the most convenient plan, is to purchase them 
 by the box, keeping them always in a cool dry place. 
 
 If wax candles become discoloured or soiled, they may be 
 restored, by rubbing them over with a clean flannel, slightly 
 dipped in spirits of wine. 
 
 Candles are sometimes troublesome to light. They will 
 ignite instantly, if, when preparing them for the evening, you dip 
 the top in spirits of wine, shortly before they are wanted. 
 
 Light them always with a match, and do not hold them to 
 the fire, as that will cause the tops to melt and drip. Always 
 hold the match to the side of the wick, and not over the top. 
 
 IT you find them too small for the candlesticks, wrap neatly 
 round the bottom end a small piece of white paper, not allowing 
 the paper to appear above the socket. Cut the wicks at once to 
 a convenient length for lighting, (nearly close,) for if the wick is 
 too long at the top, it will be very diflicult to ignite, and will 
 also bend down, and set the candle to running. 
 
 Glass receivers for the droppings of candles are very con 
 venient, as well as ornamental. These are to be had at the 
 principal china stores, and those that are of cut-glass are ex 
 tremely elegant. They have a hole, through which the candle 
 IS nassed when they are placed on the socket of the candlestick 
 
168 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 nr branch; and projecting all round in the form of leaves or 
 shells, they receive the droppings of the wax or spermaceti. 
 
 The pieces of candle that are left after burning an evening, 
 should be laid in a tin box kept for the purpose, and used for 
 bed-lights. Even if the pieces are tolerably long, they should 
 not again be introduced as parlour lights, for in genteel families 
 it is not customary to commence their evening with half-burnt 
 candles. 
 
 TO MAKE COMMON MOULD CANDLES.— For this 
 purpose, you will require a set of tin moulds, containing tubes 
 for four or six candles ; a strong straight stick about half a yard 
 long, to go across the top ; and six or eight wooden pegs. You 
 must have also, a ball of clean cotton candle-wick ; and a suffi- 
 cient quantity of fresh raw mutton suet. Lamb fat must not be 
 mixed with it, as it will cause the candles to run. 
 
 To prepare the wicks, cut the cotton into double lengths, 
 somewhat longer than the tin moulds. With a bodkin or some- 
 thing of the sort, draw the wicks (double) through the moulds, 
 leaving a loop at the top of each, and a piece coming out at the 
 bottom. Run the stick through these loops at the top ; and 
 secure the wicks where they come out at the bottom of the 
 moulds, by wrapping them tightly round the wooden pegs, so 
 as to prevent the tallow from running out when it is poured in. 
 
 Cut up the suet; put it into a pot over the fire, and melt it 
 thoroughly, skimming it well. Then strain it through a coarse 
 cloth, into a mug with a spout, and pour it hot into, the moulds, 
 filling them completely. Set them out of doors for the candles 
 to cool ; or, what is still better, stand the moulds in a ves- 
 sel of cold water; or put a little ice or snow round them if 
 you are in haste to get them cold. Freezing will make them 
 white. When you are certain that the tallow is quite cold and 
 
LIGHTS, ETC. 169 
 
 liard, dip the moulds for a moment into warm water, to loosen 
 the candles ; and then, pulling them upwar.ds by the cross stick 
 at the top, draw them carefully out. If you draw them too 
 soon, the wicks will come out and leave the tallow. Trim ofl' 
 the ends of the wicks at the bottom and top, and the candles 
 will be fit for use next evening. 
 
 From a quarter of fine mutton, (including the leg and loin,) 
 you may cut off sufficient fat or suet, to make four large mould 
 candles. After they are made, (if the season is winter,) put 
 them out of doors a night or two, that they may freeze white. 
 
 SMALL WAX CANDLES — Or bougies, for sealing 
 letters, may be made in a manner similar to the above. You 
 must procure from a tinner a set of very small moulds. The 
 wicks should be of fine smooth cotton, and thinner than for large 
 candles* The wax (either white or coloured) you can obtain 
 from the druggists. Melt it thoroughly. As it is already refined, 
 it requires no straining previous to pouring it into the moulds. 
 
 FINE HOME-MADE CANDLES.— For these the ingre- 
 dients are in the following proportion : — Take ten ounces of 
 fresh mutton fat or suet, a quarter of a pound of bleached white 
 wax, a quarter of an ounce of camphor, and two ounces of 
 alum. Cut or break up all these articles, and then melt them 
 together; skimming them well. Have ready the wicks, 
 (which should be prevLQUsly soaked in lime-water and salt- 
 petre, and then thoroughly dried,) fix them in the moulds, and 
 pour in the melted liquid, proceeding as in the receipt for com- 
 mon mould candles. 
 
 Candles made in this manner of the above material, are 
 
 hard and durable, and will not run ; burning also with a very 
 
 c»ear light. 
 
 15 
 
170 THE HOUSF BOOK. 
 
 DIP CANDLES. — These may be made ot the frefih suei 
 or fat of either mutton or beef. Melt the tallow 5n an L'on pot, 
 and then strain it into a deep pan or crock. Cut the wicks 
 into single lengths, tying the upper end of each over a stick, 
 or strong straight rod. Then dip them all together repeatedly 
 into the pan of hot tallow, letting them cool awhile between 
 each dipping. More and more tallow will stick to them every 
 time. You may shape them evenly by filling an iron spoon with 
 the tallow, and pouring it on the candles wherever they seem 
 to want it most. When they are sufficiently large and thick, 
 place them out of doors to harden. By keeping them out all 
 night in cold weather, they will become white by freezing. 
 
 RUSH LIGHTS.— Rush lights are much better than small 
 dip candles, and in country places where the rushes grow, the 
 expense of making them is almost nothing. 
 
 When the meadow rushes have attained their full substance, 
 but are still green, cut them and bring them home Trim off 
 both ends of the rush, and leave the prime part, which should 
 be about a foot and a half long. Then take off all the green 
 skin that surrounds the pith, leaving only about one-fifth in a 
 perpendicular strip running all the way up from bottom to top 
 of the rush ; this strip is to hold the pith together all the way 
 along. 
 
 Have ready some melted tallow, and pour it liquid into a 
 tall crock, or something as high as tlie length of the rushes. 
 Then stand up the rushes in the grease, and let them soak in it 
 thoroughly. Afterwards carry the crock into the yard, take 
 out the rushes, and stand them up to cool against the wall or 
 round a large tree. If allowed to freeze, they will be the 
 whiter. 
 
 Rush candles give a clear and pleasant light for a sick room. 
 
171 
 
 FURNITURE, <kc. 
 
 WALLS. — When the inside walls of a new houae are to be 
 painted, the plastering is hard-finished, as it is called, to pre- 
 pare them for it ; but the paint should not be put on for a year 
 at least, (it would be better still to wait two years,) as before 
 that time the plastering will not be in a state to receive it pro- 
 perly. Painting the walls of rooms has now become very 
 customary in new houses, and though more expensive at first, 
 has advantages over papering that have brought it greatly into 
 use ; being more durable, more easily cleaned when soiled, not 
 loosening with the damp, and showing the furniture to greater 
 advantage ; particularly the curtains, mirrors, and pictures. 
 The ceiling, of course, should be white ; otherwise it will look 
 low and gloomy, unless in a very splendid apartment, where 
 it has been finely painted by an artist. With such a ceiling, 
 it is usual to have the walls of the room painted in compart- 
 ments, by the same hand. We have seen walls that were 
 painted to imitate has reliefs of white marble ; the ceilings 
 corresponding, and made to look as if coved or vaulted. 
 Nothing can be in worse taste, tkan a painted ceiling with a 
 papered wall, however expensive and elegant the paper. 
 
 The colour of the walls should, on no account, resemble that 
 of the furniture, but should rather present a decided conti'ast. 
 To give a good effect to a room, there should, as in a picture, 
 be a proper and harmonious distribution of light and dark tints 
 throughout all the objects; everyone assisting to bring eacn 
 
172 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 other out. If there is nothing in the room either very dark or 
 very light, the aspect of the whole will be indistinct and con- 
 fused. If the furniture is as light-coloured as the walls, the 
 whole will look weak and insipid. If both walls and furniture 
 are dark, the effect will be heavy and gloomy ; and the rooras 
 will light very badly at night. 
 
 If you have fine pictures, (wil-paintings,) they will be worth 
 taking every means of showing to advantage. Therefore, as 
 bright colours around them would overpower their tints, let 
 the walls be one uniform shade of a quiet and sober colour, 
 something like pale gray, or stone colour, or pale olive ; but 
 on no account any thing of a blue, red, green, or yellow tinge. 
 On each side of all the principal pictures it is well to place a 
 bracket supporting a lamp ; thus doing justice to the work of 
 the artist, and assisting at the same time to light the room. 
 Where there are no pictures, or only engravings, the walls may 
 be painted of a very pale pink or blossom colour, an extremely 
 delicate light green or blue, or of any buff or yellowish tint 
 that will not interfere with the gilding of the mirror frames, &c. 
 Generally, however, the safest colour to set off the furniture is 
 one of the various tints of gray, including light stone-colour 
 and dove-colour. The curtains, &c., should always be darker 
 than the walls ; otherwise the effect will be dull and insipid, 
 for want of contrast. 
 
 Light blue looks extremely well for an entry and stair-case 
 In choosing wall-paper, a»sroid that which has a variety ol 
 colours or a large showy figure, as with such a paper no furni 
 ture whatever can appear to its best advantage. The wall, 
 whether painted or papered, should never be so conspicuous as 
 to interfere with the objects of which it forms the background. 
 The most tasteful papers, and those which best set off the gill 
 frzunes, lamps, &;c., are those whose simple and unobtrusive 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 173 
 
 figure is formed by different tints of the same colour, as shaded 
 grays, &c. All wall-papers should be very light. For a bor- 
 dering round the top, let the predominant colour correspond 
 with that of the curtains. A deep rich bordering gives a very 
 handsome finish to a papered wall. 
 
 Large figured papering makes a small room look still smaller. 
 It is now much out of use 
 
 CARPETS. — ^The carpets most used in America are the 
 Saxony, Tournay, and Brussels, for the best apartments of 
 handsomely furnished houses. Inferior to these are the Wilton, 
 the Imperial, Kidderminster or Ingrain, Venetian, and Scotch; 
 which last is the lowest in price, and worst in quality. Turkey 
 carpets are now very rare. They are made square, all in one 
 piece, and are extremely thick, heavy, and durable ; but their 
 colours and patterns have no beauty, and they accumulate 
 much dust, and are so cumbrous as to be extremely difficult 
 to shake. 
 
 Wilton carpets, though looking very handsomely when quite 
 new, are less durable than any others ; the surface, notwith- 
 standing its rich and velvet-like appearance, wearing off almost 
 immediately ; every sweeping bringing away a portion of the 
 wool. Persons who have had no experience of them can 
 scarcely believe in how short a time a Wilton carpet or hearth- 
 rug becomes thread-bare. 
 
 Venetian or striped carpets are rarely used, except for stairs 
 and passages. They (as well as Imperial and Ingrain carpets) 
 are made to be put down with either side outwards. 
 
 In buying a carpet, as in every thing else, those of best qua- 
 lity are cheapest in the end. As it is extremely desirable that 
 they should look clean as long as possible, avoid buying h 
 
 carpet that has any white in it. Even a very small portion ot 
 
 15* 
 
174 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 white interspersed through the pattern, will in a short time 
 give a dirty appearance to the whole ; and certainly no carpet 
 can be worse for use than one with a white ground. A carpet 
 in which all the colours are light, never has a clean, bright 
 effect, from the want of dark tints to contrast and set oflf the 
 light ones. For a similar reason, carpets whose colours are 
 all of what artists call middle tint, (neither dark nor light,) 
 cannot fail to look dull and dingy, even when quite new. The 
 caprices of fashion at times bring these ill-coloured carpets into 
 vogue ; but in apartments where elegance is desirable, they 
 always have a bad eJEfect. For a carpet to be really beautiful 
 and in good taste, there should be, as in a picture, a judicious 
 disposal of light and shadow, with a gradation of very bright 
 arid of very dark tints ; some almost white, and others almost 
 or quite black. The most truly chaste, rich, and elegant car- 
 pets are those where the pattern is formed by one colour only, 
 but arranged in every variety of shade. For instance, we have 
 seen a Brussels carpet entirely red ; the pattern formed by 
 shades or tints varying from the deepest crimson (almost a 
 black) to the palest pink, almost a white. Also, one of green 
 only, shaded from the darkest bottle-green, in some parts of 
 the figure, to the lightest pea-green in others. Another, in 
 which there was no colour but brown in all its various grada- 
 tions, some of the shades being nearly black, others of a light 
 buff. All these carpets had much the look of rich cut velvet 
 The curtains, sofas, &c., of course, were of corresponding 
 colours, and the effect of the whole was noble and elegant. 
 
 Carpets that present a great variety of different and gaudy co- 
 lours, are much less in demand than formerly. Two colours only, 
 with the dark and light shades of each, will make a very hand- 
 some carpet. A very light blue ground, with the figure of 
 shaded crimson or purple, looks extremely well ; so does u 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 175 
 
 salmon-colour or buff ground, with a deep green figure; or a 
 light yellow ground, with a shaded blue or purple figure. If 
 you cannot obtain a hearth-rug that exactly corresponds with 
 the carpet, get one entirely different; for a decided contrast 
 looks better than a bad match. We have seen very hand- 
 some hearth-rugs with a rich, black, velvet-looking ground, 
 and the figure of shaded blue, or of various tints of yellow and 
 orange. 
 
 No carpet decidedly light-coloured throughout, has a good 
 effect on the floor, or continues long to look clean. 
 
 To preserve expensive carpets, it is well to completely cover 
 the floor beneath them with drugget, or with coarse matting, 
 which is a much better plan than to spread a layer of straw 
 between the floor and the carpet ; the straw (besides the diffi- 
 culty of spreading it perfectly smooth and even) accumulating 
 much dust, that works up through the carpet. In buying a 
 carpet, (having first measured the room, and calculated the 
 exact quantity with the utmost accuracy,) it is well to get an 
 additional yard or two to lay aside, that you may haveit ready 
 in case of transferring the carpet to a larger apartment, or for 
 the purpose of repairing any part that may be worn out or acci- 
 dentally burnt. 
 
 in fitting a carpet round the hearth, (unless there is border- 
 ing,) do not cut the piece entirely out, but slit it down at each 
 «ide, and having herring-boned the edges to prevent their ravel- 
 ling, turn the flaps or slips inwards, underneath the carpet. 
 Or you may turn it over, and tack it down, so as to be outside 
 of the carpet, and under the hearth-rug. In making the carpet, 
 the selvage edges must be held together (the figure exadly 
 matching) so as barely to meet, but not to lie over each other. 
 [t should be sewed on the wrong side, with the strong coxoured 
 »hiead that is made for the purpose; taking up both edges at 
 
176 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 the- same time, but not so as to form a ridge. Each stitch must 
 be taken behind or at the back of the last; passing the needle 
 backwards and forwards, so as to point it alternately, first from 
 your chest, and then towards it ; and taking* care not to hold 
 one side of the selvage lower than the other, and not to draw 
 your thread too tightly. If properly done, the seams will tread 
 down perfectly flat. If you find, as you proceed, that you have 
 puckered any part of the seam, pick it out, and do it better; as 
 the slightest incorrectness in matching the pattern will disfigure 
 the whole carpet. 
 
 When the seams are completed, bind the edge all round with 
 regular carpet-binding. 
 
 A carpet-fork (to be obtained at the hardware stores) is an 
 article of almost indispensable convenience for putting down 
 carpets. It is to be stuck by a strong hand into the extremities 
 of the carpet, after it is laid on the floor, so as to stretch it to 
 the utmost, and make it fit tightly and evenly all over ; while 
 another person pulls it straight and smooths it. The tack-nails 
 must not be too small, or they will fail in securing the carpet 
 firmly. It is well to have ready a sufficient number of little 
 bits of soft buckskin or kid leather, to stick on each tack, close 
 under the head, which may otherwise fray or injure the carpet. 
 
 An extra^ breadth, tacked down in front of the sofa, will 
 assist greatly in saving that part of the carpet from wearing 
 out ; and by taking care to match the figure exactly, it can be 
 so fixed as to escape notice. 
 
 In an eating-room, the carpet should be protected from crumbs 
 ftnd grease-droppings by a large woollen cloth kept for the 
 purpose, and spread under the table and the chairs that surround 
 it ; this cloth to be taken up after every meal, and shaken out 
 of doors ; or else swept off carefully as it lies. It will also 
 .equire occasional washing. A crumb-cloth may bt of diugget, 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 
 
 177 
 
 finished round the edge with carpet-hinding ; of thick green 
 baize ; or very strong, stout brown linen. 
 
 Have always a regular tack-box, for the purpose of contain- 
 ing new tacks, and receiving those that come out of the carpets 
 when they are taken up. Your hammer should of course have 
 a claw or cleft for getting out nails. Take care to leave no 
 loose tacks lying about the floor ; as, if accidentally trodden 
 en, they may cause great injury to the foot. 
 
 In putting away carpets for the summer, after they have been 
 well shaken and beaten, fold them up, and lay among the folds 
 a large quantity of shreds of tobacco, interspersed with bits of 
 camphor. Wrapping them up closely in linen sheets or table- 
 cloths, will prove an additional security against the moths. 
 The linen should be pinned or sewed tightly round them. 
 
 To prevent the back of a sofa or a piano from rubbing against 
 the wall, and defacing it with marks, prepare two narrow slats 
 of heavy wood, about a foot long, and in thickness and breadth 
 three or four inches. Cover them with carpeting of the same 
 as that on the floor, and set them between the wash-board and 
 the back feet of the sofa, which will thus be imperceptibly 
 kept off from the wall. 
 
 A large, heavy, square foot-cushion of coarse linen, stuflTed 
 hard and firmly with hair, or with upholsterers' moss, and 
 covered with carpeting, is a very usual and excellent accompa- 
 niment to a rocking-chair. These cushions must be made so 
 compact and substantial, that they cannot be moved unless 
 intentionally. If lightly and loosely stuffed, (as you will 
 generally find those that are offered for sale ready-made,) they 
 will be continually shoving from under your feet, and kicking 
 about the room. It is well always to bespeak them yourself, 
 and have them made to order. There is no foot-stool so com- 
 fortable and convenient as these heavy carpet-cus>iions, parti- 
 
J 78 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 cularly for chambers, sitting-rooms, and libraries. In hand- 
 somely furnished parlours or drawing-rooms, the foot-stools are 
 generally of mahogany, and covered with the same material as 
 the sofas, &c. ; but they should always be heavy, so as not 
 easily to overset. 
 
 A large brick, covered with a piece of carpeting sewed 
 smoothly all over it, is a simple but good contrivance for plac- 
 ing against the door to keep it open when necessary. 
 
 BED-ROOM CARPETS.— The carpet on a chamber will 
 last and look well much longer if there are extra pieces to lay 
 round the bed, taking them up and shaking them every day. 
 In front of the washing-stand, and some distance beneath, it is 
 well to have a breadth of oil-cloth nailed down upon the carpet, 
 which will thus be saved from much injury by the splashing 
 of water in emptying pitchers and basins. 
 
 The custom of carpeting chambers all over in summer, though 
 very general in American houses, is not a good one. It seems 
 to add to the heat of the room, is very uncomfortable to the feet 
 when the shoes and stockings are off, and causes an accumula- 
 tion of dust which seldom fails to produce insects, and is in 
 every respect a great sacrifice of convenience to show. Also, 
 the carpet of course will not last half as long if in use all the 
 year. In Engl and,, though the summers are much cooler than 
 ours, the chamber floors, when not covered with matting or oil- 
 cloth, have in the warm season no other carpets than three 
 small ones that surround the bed, and are removed every morn- 
 ing before the oed is made. These bed-side carpets come in 
 sets, are frequently very elegant, and are manufactured expressly 
 for the purpose, each having a border and middle-figure. We 
 -cwuld wish they were universally introduced into America, 
 
FURNITUPE, ETC. 179 
 
 nothing- being more easy to sweep and wash than me board 
 floor, from which they can be removed in a minute. 
 
 In families that are unwilling to go to the expense of matting 
 for their chambers in summer, we recommend that the carpet 
 shall nevertheless be taken up and put away before the warm 
 season commences; substituting for the above-mentioned regu- 
 lar bed-side carpets, three pieces of carpeting finished with 
 worsted binding. 
 
 STAIR-CARPETS.— Having the stairs painted white (a 
 custom now greatly in use) will save much trouble in scrub- 
 bing them. When painted, all they require is to be washed 
 down occasionally with a flannel and cold water. The white 
 paint on each side adds much to the effect of a handsome 
 coloured stair-carpet. Observing the pains that are taken by 
 many persons to prevent their wearing out, one might suppos*^ 
 that a stair-carpet was of all articles of furniture the most costly. 
 Some are guarded by a covering of brown linen, which almor* 
 immediately becomes soiled, and after washing looks fit only to 
 be cut up into kitchen towels. Others are covered all the wav 
 up the middle with a strip of druggetj (which is rather better;) 
 and others are disfigured by slips of oil-cloth nailed along the 
 ledge of every step. All recourse to these unsightly metho(^& 
 of saving a stair-carpet may be avoided, by simply purchasinc» 
 at the beginning a yard and a half or two yards more of the 
 carpeting than is actually required by the measure of you? 
 stairs. In putting down the carpet, let this additional yard be 
 folded smoothly under, either at the head or the foot of the 
 stairs, or partly at both. Whenever the stair-carpet is faken 
 up to be shaken and beaten, (which ought to be at least onctf 
 a fortnight, as the dust accumulating underneath grinds and 
 wears it out,) the position of the extra quantity at the end 
 
180 THE HOUSE BOOK 
 
 should be changed By this means, the same part of the car 
 peting will not be all the t^me wearing against the stairs; and 
 jvhat was last upon the ledge, will be now agamst the flat part. 
 
 We know that by this easy plan of buying at the beginning 
 a small extra quantity, a good stair-carpet has been made to 
 last ten years, without looking in the least amiss, and without 
 the expense, trouble, and disfigurement of any covering or 
 guard whatever. 
 
 For a long or lofty staircase, it is best to get two additional 
 yards of the carpeting. 
 
 An entry or hall carpet will last much longer, for having a 
 large mat at every door that opens into it. 
 
 Immediately within the street door, the vestibule (if not of 
 marble) should be covered with oil-cloth. Also, oil-cloth at the 
 oack door, and at the head of the kitchen stairs. 
 
 A stair-carpet should never be swept down with a long broom, 
 but always with a short-handled brush, and a tin dust pan held 
 closely under each step of the stairs as you proceed ; sweeping 
 carefully the corners and between the bannisters, which should 
 afterwards be wiped and nibbed with a cloth. If they are 
 mahogany, they should occasionally be cleaned and polished 
 in the same manner as mahogany furniture. 
 
 After a stair-carpet is taken up to be beaten and shaken, the 
 staircase should be swept very clean, preparatory to scrubbing* 
 unless it is painted, and then, as before mentioned, it need only 
 be washed down. Before sweeping, sprinkle the dust with water 
 
 TO SWEEP CARPETS.—Previous to sweeping a carpet, 
 pick up whatever shreds or clippings may be lying about, as it 
 will be found easier to remove them at once, than to be pushing 
 them from place to place, all over the room, while you are 
 sweeping it. Then sprinkle the carpet with some damp tea- 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 181 
 
 leaves, which should always be saved for that purpose, by 
 putting them into a jar, as soon as the tea-pot is emptied. The 
 tea-leaves absorb the dust, and cause the carpet to look cleaner 
 and brighter. Then go over the carpet with a corn broom 
 briskly and lightly ; for hard heavy sweeping, will wear off 
 the surface of the wool. Having first swept one half, remove 
 all the chairs, &c., to that part of the room, and then go over 
 the remainder; carefully sweeping under the sofas and other 
 fixtures. When you have reached the door that opens into the 
 entry, have ready there, a tin dust-pan with a short-handled 
 brush ; collect in it all the sweepings of the carpet, and carry 
 them away at once, to be thrown into the dust-hole. 
 
 Drawing-room carpets of the finest and most costly descrip- 
 tion, should be swept with a hair broom. For a very rich car- 
 pet on a small apartment, a clean hearth-brush may be used. 
 
 BEATING A CARPET.—When a carpet is taken up to 
 be beaten, let it be carried out by two men into a large open 
 place, (a green, for instance,) and well shaken. Then suspend 
 it, wrong side out, on a stout line between two trees; or spread 
 it over a fence. It should then be beaten very hard, by two or 
 four men, (according to its size,) each person having a pliable 
 stick or rattan, the end being strongly tied round with cloth so 
 as to form a sort of knob, which, by blunting the sharpness of 
 the blows, will prevent the carpet from being frayed, and the 
 seams from splitting. After it has been well beaten on the 
 wrong side, let it rest a while, till all the dust has blown away ; 
 and then turn it on the right side, and give it a thorough beat- 
 ing. When no more dust issues from it, lay the carpet on the 
 green, fold it conveniently, and carry it back to the house. 
 
 Before it is laid down again, examine it all over, anu dam 
 
 or mend any parts that may need it; using for the purpose, 
 
 16 
 
182 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 carpe -3'arn of the respective colours that compcise the figure ; 
 a needle-full of each as it may be required. Also, if any ol 
 the binding is loose, see to repair it. 
 
 While the carpet is getting beaten, sprinkle the floor well 
 to lay the dust; sweep it twice over, and scrub it. A carpet 
 in constant use will require beating four times, if down the 
 whole year. 
 
 A half-worn carpet may be made to last longer, by ripping it 
 apart, and transposing the breadths ; so as to make those that 
 look thin and threadbare, go to that part of the room where they 
 will be least observed. Or the best part may be taken out, and 
 made into a carpet for a smaller room. 
 
 TO WASH A CARPET.— Having first removed the 
 grease-spots, by the repeated application of Wilmington clay, 
 scraped to a powder, and made into a paste with a little water, 
 and having taken out the stains with hartshorn diluted with 
 water, take up the carpet, (saving all the tacks, by putting them 
 into a box,) and have it carried to an open place, to be well 
 shaken and beaten thoroughly with rattans, so as to get out 
 the dust. Then let the floor of the room be swept and scrubbed. 
 When the floor is dry, bring back the carpet, and nail it down 
 again, stretching it well with a carpet-fork. Afterwards, let it be 
 well scrubbed all over, a little at a time, with a long scrubbing 
 brush, soap, and cold water in which has been mixed a tea- 
 cup full or more of ox-gall, to preserve the colours. Then 
 wash off the suds with plain cold water, and finish with a dry 
 ing cloth, with which it must be made as dry as possible. 
 Afterwards, raise the window sashes, lock the door, and do 
 not let the room be used till the carpet is quite dry. 
 
 An ingrain, imperial, or Brussels carpet washed in this mmi 
 ner, will look very much like a new one. A Wilton carpet, 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 183 
 
 or any one in wliich the pile or wool is chiefly on the surface, 
 cannot be scrubbed, or it will rub off, leaving the texture 
 thread-bare. 
 
 Those parts of the carpet that are mo£t soiled may be at any 
 time scrubbed with a small hand-brush, when it is not consi- 
 dered necessary to undertake a general washing of the whole ; 
 always adding a little gall to the water to preserve the colours. 
 
 OIL-CLOTHS OR PAINTED CARPETS.— In buying 
 an oil-cloth for a floor, (and there is nothing so good for the 
 hall or vestibule of a house,) endeavour to obtain one that was 
 manufactured several years before ; as the longer it has been 
 made previous to use, the better it will wear, from the paint 
 becoming hard and durable. We have seen an English oil- 
 cloth that, not having been put down 'till five years after it was 
 imported, looked fresh and new, though it had been ten years 
 in constant use on an entry floor. An oil-cloth that has been 
 made within the year is scarcely worth buying, as the paint 
 will be defaced in a very little time, it requiring a long while 
 to season. 
 
 An oil-cloth should never be scrubbed with a brush ; but, 
 after beiiig first swept, it should be cleaned by washing with 
 a large soft cloth and lukewarm or cold water. On no account 
 use soap, or take water that is hot; as either of them will cer- 
 tainly bring off" the paint. When it has dried, you may sponge 
 it over with milk, which will brighten and preserve the colours ; 
 and then wipe it with a soft dry cloth. 
 
 For a kitchen floor that is not painted, there is no better 
 covering than a coarse, stout, plain oil-cloth, unfigured, or all 
 of one colour; for instance, dark red, blue, brown, olive, or 
 ochre yellow. These common oil-cloths are almost universal 
 in the English kitchens and laundries. They save the trouble 
 
184 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 of scrubbing the floor, it being only necessary to wash them 
 off with a wet cloth ; and as they are impervious to damp, or 
 to cold from open cracks between the boards, they make the 
 kitchen as dry and warm as it could be rendered by a woollen 
 carpet; and they have the advantage of collecting and retaining 
 no dust or grease. It is surprising that these common oil-cloths 
 have not been more generally introduced into American kitchens. 
 
 STRAW MATTING.— In buying matting for a summer 
 covering to the floors of your best apartments, do not get that 
 which is checkered or figured with two colours. The eifect is 
 never good, and it gives a common and ungenteel appearance 
 to the rooms. If figured matting is used at all, it should only 
 be in the inferior parts of the house. Thin, low-priced matting 
 should also be avoided, as it cuts in streaks, and wears out so 
 soon that it will be found in the end more expensive than that 
 of the best quality. In fitting it to the floor, do not allow it to 
 encroach on any part of the hearth ; as that will preclude the 
 convenience of your having a fire, should the weather be unex- 
 pectedly cold after the matting is put down, or before it is taken 
 up for the season. In the middle and eastern sections of Ame- 
 rica, it is best not to put down the matting, and arrange the 
 rooms for summer, before the middle of June ; and it should 
 be taken up and replaced with the carpets before the middle of 
 September; certainly previous to the cold rains which we 
 always expect about that season. If you have occasion for a 
 fire while the matting is still down, lay the rug before the 
 hearth. 
 
 Straw matting should be washed but seldom, as much damp- 
 ness is injurious to it. When it is necessary, however, to clean 
 a floor mat, do it by washing with a large coarse cloth dipped 
 In salt and water; and as you proceed, wiping it dry with an- 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 185 
 
 other coarse cloth. The salt will prevent the matting from 
 turning yellow. 
 
 If, in putting down a floor mat, you have occasion to join it 
 across, ravel about an ineh at the end of each breadth, and tie 
 or knot the lengthway threads two together. Then, turning 
 all. these knotted threads underneath, lay one edge over the 
 other of the pieces to be joined, and tack them down to the 
 floor with a row of very small tacks ; each tack having a little 
 bit of buckskin on it, to prevent the head of the nail from injur- 
 ing or wearing out the mat. This ravelling the ends of the 
 breadths, and knotting and turning under their threads, obviates 
 the inconvenience of a thick conspicuous ridge if the edge 
 of the matting is folded under in its full substance. 
 
 Worsted binding is generally used for matting ; but as this 
 is sometimes destroyed by moths, it is safer to secure the edge 
 of the mat with the sufficiently durable binding of coloured 
 linen or thick cotton broad tape, to be had of all colours at the 
 carpet stores. 
 
 Straw matting is not advisable for a stair-case. It wears 
 out very soon against the ledges of the steps, and is, besides, 
 too slippery to be safe for those that go up and down, particu- 
 larly if they have to carry articles that may be broken. Oil- 
 cloth is also too slippery. 
 
 For a stair-case there is no better covering (at all seasons) 
 than a good carpet. If the principal stair-case has been painted 
 all over white, and the others dark gray, no covering will be 
 needed in the summer season, at which time it is expected that 
 all the furniture then in use shall be as li^ht and as little 
 mconvenient as possible. 
 
 • 
 
 RAG CARPETS.— Though we highly disapprove of put- 
 ting rag carpets on kitchen floors, in cons(!quence of the din 
 
186 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 und grease with which they soon become saturated, they may 
 be advantageously used in an ironing-room ; a servants' sitting- 
 room ; as bed-side carpets for domestics ; or for other purposes 
 in families where much economy is necessary. They are made 
 of old cloth ; for instance, of coats, pantaloons, &c., that can 
 no longer be worn. After it has been well brushed ana beaten, 
 rip the cloth apart, and with very large scissors cut it into 
 straight, even strips, about two inches wide, laying them in a 
 basket as you proceed. Then with coarse, strong, brown 
 thread sew together the ends of all the strips, and wind them 
 into large balls. You may add strips of old carpeting, green 
 baize, or red flannel. When you have collected a sufficient 
 quantity, send them to the weaver and have them woven into a 
 carpet, which, though certainly far from handsome, will be 
 thick, strong, and durable. 
 
 Rag rugs are sometimes made entirely of old ingrain car 
 peting. 
 
 PICTURES. — In purchasing specimens of the fine arts, 
 select only such as are good. A small and excellent collection 
 is of far more intrinsic value, and evinces better taste than a 
 large number of bad, or even tolerable pictures, that, instead 
 of ornamenting your walls, and adding interest to your apart- 
 ments, only degrade and disfigure them. 
 
 Do not mix engravings and oil-paintings on the walls of the 
 same room. Drawings in crayons and in water-colours may, 
 however, be placed with prints. Take care to hang none of 
 them so high as to be seen to disadvantage. Those that are 
 small should be placed quite low, and judiciously interspersed 
 among the larger ones. Each of the largest and finest oil-pic- , 
 tures ought to be lighted by a pair of lamps, placed on brackets, 
 one at each side. 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 187 
 
 To prevent the necessity of driving nails into the wall, it is 
 now very usual, in handsome apartments, to have a brass rod 
 fixed all round the cornice, just below the ceiling; and to this 
 rod, are fastened long ribbons, (all of the same colour,) to 
 which the pictures are suspended, with a handsome bow at 
 each ing. Even where there is not a brass rod, it is better to 
 hang the pictures by long ribbons, from brass-headed nails or 
 hooks, driven at the height of the cornice, than to have nail- 
 marks dispersed all over the walls. 
 
 For halls and libraries, maps on rollers are more appropriate 
 than pictures. 
 
 In getting engravings framed, see that the glass is as clear as 
 possible ; for a greenish or reddish tinge will cause the print 
 to look badly. The effect of an engraving is greatly improved, 
 by leaving round it a large margin of the white paper. 
 
 To brighten the glass, rub it with a buckskin and whiting, 
 made a little damp ; and then wipe it with a silk handkerchief. 
 On no account wash it, or the water will get in beneath, and 
 stain the enorravino-. 
 
 "When an oil-painting is soiled, smoked, or in any way 
 defaced, (also when it wants varnishing,) it is best to send it 
 to a regular picture-cleaner ; as an inexperienced person may 
 do it irreparable injury; and few of the receipts for those pur- 
 poses are to be depended on. 
 
 If an oil picture is hung over a mantel-piece, the canvas if 
 liable to wrinkle with the heat. 
 
 To keep clean the gilding of picture-frames, dust them with 
 a soft feather-brush ; or go lightly over them with a loose bit 
 of the inside of wadding, or of carded cotton. 
 
 When much soiled, the best remedy is to send them to be 
 gilt anew ; as the usual receipts for cleaning gilt frames wil. 
 be found, on trial, rather injurious than beneticial. 
 
188 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 CURTAINS. — Unless the chairs, sofas, &c., are covered 
 with satin-hair, the curtains should, of course, always correspond 
 with thera in colour, if not in material. Also with the carpet. 
 As we have before observed, the colour of the curtains should 
 c <ntrast that of the walls, always being darker and entirely 
 different. With regard to the fringe, lace, or bordering of the 
 curtains, if the colours do not harmonize or contrast agreeably, 
 and according to the dictates of good taste, the effect will be bad, 
 no matter how rich or expensive the materials. For instance, two 
 dark colours or two light ones should not go together. Scarlet 
 curtains trimmed with blue or yellow do not look well ; but bright 
 scarlet has a good effect vrith dark green or black. A rich, deep 
 crimson contrasts finely with an extremely light and beautiful 
 blue ; or with a golden yellow. Curtains of a full blue, may be 
 trimmed with black, dark brown, orange, or bright yellow. Light 
 blue curtains look extremely well with purple trimmings, or with 
 rich brown. Brown curtains appear to advantage trimmed with 
 light blue or pink. Dark grey or slate-colour may also be trimmed 
 with very pale pink or blue. For green curtams, light lilac trim- 
 ming looks w'ell ; also golden yellow. Curtains of buff, orange 
 colour, or bright yellow, may be trimmed with purple, brown, 
 black, deep crimson, or dark blue. Curtains of a rich purple, 
 trimmed with orange, or golden yellow, have a magnificent effect. 
 A very light blue trimming also assimilates well with purple. 
 
 In handsomely furnished houses, the most usual materials 
 for curtains, are silk and worsted damask, figured satin, and 
 merino cloth ; always with shades or inside draperies of mus- 
 lin, which should be taken down and washed several times 
 during the season. Chintz curtains are now seldom seen in 
 America, except for bed-rooms. 
 
 It is not a good custom to keep the curtains up during tht» 
 summer, as it fades them, and covers them with dust ; besidp.-? 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 
 
 189 
 
 which, they seem to increase the heat of the rooms, and impede 
 the free entrance of the air. Venetian and linen blinds are the 
 best shades for windows in summer time. 
 
 TO CLEAN CURTAINS.— This should always be done 
 before they are put away for the summer. Having taken 
 down the curtains, and shaken them well, brush them with a 
 small long-haired brush, so as to get off all the dust, particu- 
 larly from between the gathers, pleats, or flutings. To do this 
 conveniently, the different parts of the curtains should be sepa- 
 rated. Prepare a sufficient quantity of good wheat bran ; put 
 it into a large pan, and place it before the fire to dry ; stirring 
 it frequently with your hands while drying. Afterwards, if 
 the curtains are of silk, mix with the bran an ounce or more of 
 finely powdered indigo blue. Having provided several pieces 
 of clean soft flannel, spread the curtains (a piece at a time) on 
 a large table, and sprinkle them with the bran, a handful at a 
 time. Next, take a bit of the flannel, and with it rub the bran 
 round and round on the curtains, letting it rest a while, before 
 you brush it off. As you proceed, take clean bran and a fresh 
 piece of flannel, and continue till you have gone sufficiently 
 over the curtains, which by this process will be much bright- 
 ened and improved in appearance. Then fold them lightly and 
 smoothly ; and if they are of merino, worsted damask, or cloth, 
 lay among them numerous bits of camphor to preserve them 
 from moths, and pin or sew them up closely in old linen 
 sheets or table-cloths. Then put them away in a eldest or 
 closet. 
 
 If glazed chintz curtains are cleaned regularly in this manner, 
 when they are taken down towards the close of spring, they 
 will not require washing for several years. 
 Ottomans and sofas, whether covered with cloth, damask, or 
 
190 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 chihta;, will look much the better for being cleaned occasionally 
 with bran and flannel. 
 
 VENETIAN BLINDS.— As they are intended for conve- 
 nience rather than for ornament, it is not necessary that Vene- 
 tian blinds should, like curtains, have a conspicuous effect in 
 the room. On the contrary, it is better that their colour should 
 as nearly as possible match that of the wall. Green Venetian 
 blinds are getting out of favour, as that colour fades very soon, 
 spots with wet, and shows the dust too plainly. Venetian 
 blinds should every day be dusted with a small brush or a 
 turkey wing, and wiped with a soft dry cloth. 
 
 LINEN WINDOW BLINDS.— These blinds, as they 
 soften the glare of the sun without excluding the light, are 
 extremely useful in sitting-rooms and libraries. It is best to 
 have them of Jine white linen: if coarse, the light that comes 
 through them will not be clear, the thick, uneven threads dis- 
 turbing or confusing it. Brown holland blinds darken the room 
 too much. You can procure linen wide enough to make each 
 blind without a seam. They should be sufficiently long to 
 reach from the top of the window to the bottom, a little below 
 the sill ; and it is well to make them full large at first, as they 
 will shrink in washing. They are furnished with pulleys, 
 tassels, &c., and are fitted up by the upholsterers. Care must 
 be taken that the little wheels or pivots over which the cord 
 is majje to run, are not grooved too shallow, as that defect wil! 
 cause the cords to slip off" so continually as to render them 
 nearly useless. 
 
 PAPER BLINDS.— These very cheap blinds are made ol 
 wall-paper lined with thick domestic muslin, and bound with 
 
URN I TD RE, ETC. '91 
 
 worsted ferret. They are useful in common bed-rooms, for 
 attics, and for kitchens. Being double, they darken the room 
 as much as can be desired, when let down entirely. They look 
 best made of plain, unfigured wall-paper; and should be pasted 
 smoothly on the muslin lining, both being cut so as to fit the 
 window from the top to the sill. When quite dry, bind them 
 all rounds and sew into the bottom of each a roller made of an 
 eld brush-handle or something of the sort, cut off to the proper 
 length. Nail to the middle of the window frame, over the top 
 of each blind, a long double string of worsted ferret, so as to 
 fall or hang down on both the outside and inside. By tying 
 or untying this string, you can fasten up or let down the blind 
 to any height that is convenient. 
 
 SHORT BLINDS.— These are very useful in obviating the 
 Inconvenience of being seen by persons passing the windows, 
 or of being exposed to the view of opposite neighbours. Short 
 Venetian blinds, opening in the middle, though the most expen- 
 sive, are the best and most lastingr. Those of worsted stuif are 
 seldom used but for office-windows. For sitting-rooms, cham- 
 bers, &c., the blinds generally in use are of white muslin. 
 Those of plain uniigured Swiss or Scotch muslin look much 
 the best, but are more easily seen through than when the mus- 
 lin is striped or cross-barred ; if the latter, let the cross-bars be 
 small and close. Large cross-bars give muslin a very ungen- 
 teel look for all purposes, even for window blinds. Two yards 
 of six-quarter or ell-wide muslin will generally be sufficient for 
 a pair of blinds. They should reach to the top of the lower 
 sash, and descend to the window sill. Hem the bottom of each 
 blind, and make a case in the top, through which run a tape, 
 (securing it by a few stitches in the middle,) and leaving long 
 
,92 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 ends of tape to wrap tightly round the nails which fasten the 
 blind on each side to the window frame. 
 
 There should be two sets of blinds, as they will frequently 
 require washing. It is well always to starch them a little. 
 
 MAHOGANY FURNITURE.— The handsomest and best 
 mahogany is generally used for furniture that is not carved. 
 As the beauty of the wood shows to no advantage in carving, 
 that of the best quality is reserved for plain furniture. If not 
 well-seasoned, new mahogany will warp and crack, particularly 
 if kept in a warm room. It is best always to buy it from a 
 cabinet-maker of established reputation. New furniture that 
 s offered for sale considerably under the usual price is, in most 
 cases, found to be a bad bargain. Fumittire made in the wm- 
 ter, and brought immediately from a cold ware-room into a 
 warm apartment, is very liable to crack. It is well to place 
 your principal table so that the grain of the wood shall be 
 across the fire-place rather than lengthways or with the end of 
 the grain towards the heat. Observing this precaution has 
 prevented many a table from cracking. If possible, it is always 
 best to have your new furniture made in the spring, that it may 
 have several months for seasoning, before the commencement 
 of fires. 
 
 If a mahogany table becomes very much defaced by scratches, 
 hackings, or scorchings, let it go to a cabinet-maker's to be 
 planed and polished. It will then look as well as new. 
 
 Tables, &c., with marble tops, though the most costly at 
 first, will be found, perhaps, cheapest in the end. They are 
 easily kept clean, by merely wiping them every day with a 
 soft cloth, and washing them once a week with cold water, 
 soap, and a flannel ; they require no cloth to cover them, and 
 there is no danger of their splitting or warping with the heat. 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 193 
 
 ROSE- WOOD. —This is the wood of the amyris, a small 
 West Indian tree. Its colour is not red, but of a dark rich 
 brown, and it is now much used for veneering handsome furni- 
 ture. Chairs, sofas, &c., of rosewood, should not be covered 
 with a dark-coloured material. Sky-blue, orange-colour, or 
 bright green harmonize extremely well with it. 
 
 To keep rose-wood furniture in good order, it should be 
 rubbed gently every day with a clean soft cloth, and this will 
 be sufficient. Preparations of wax, oil, &c., cannot be applied 
 without injuring its appearance. 
 
 CURLED MAPLE. — ^This is a very pretty wood, is easily 
 kept in order, and never changes colour. It is extremely suit- 
 able for chambers, libraries, and for dining-room^hairs. It is 
 seldom used for drawing-room furniture, being considered too 
 light, and not sufficiently rich. For a sofa, or for chairs with 
 stuffed bottoms, maple should always be contrasted with a very 
 dark colour, (for instance, black, brown, purple, or deep crim- 
 son,) its effect being bad with light blue, green, yellow, &c. 
 
 Curled maple furniture requires no other cleaning than rub 
 oing with a dry cloth. 
 
 BLACK WALNUT WOOD.— This is now much in uso 
 
 tor furniture, and looks extremely well when not opposed to a 
 
 very dark colour. W^here the wood is black walnut, the sofas, 
 
 cushions, &c., look best of sky-blue, grass-green, scarlet, rose 
 
 crimson, or bright brown. None of these colours, however, 
 
 should be too light, or the contrast will be too great. Dark 
 
 brown, dark crimson, dark green, or purple, have a very gloomy 
 
 and heavy effect when united with black walnut. 
 
 Clean it as you would mahogany. 
 
 1 
 
194 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 ROCKING-CHAIRS.— The practice of swaying backwards 
 and forwards in a parlour rocking-chair, is considered obsolete 
 in genteel society; and justly so; as it is a most ungraceful 
 recreation, particularly for a lady, (to say nothing of its ten- 
 dency to cause dizziness in the head,) and very annoying to 
 spectators, who may happen to be a little nervous. Rockitig- 
 chairs are now only used for the ptirpose of reclining in with 
 ease and convenience, to wbich the rockers add greatly, as by 
 their means, the chair can be tilted and kept stationary in any 
 position that is desired, provided always there is a footstool oi 
 heavy cushion in front, to rest the feet on; and without such 
 an accompaniment, no chair of this description can be com- 
 pletely comfortable. 
 
 Parlour rocking-chairs are best of mahogany and black satin 
 hair, no other covering keeping clean so long, and being so 
 cool in summer. Those that are covered with cloth, worsted 
 damask, or cut velvet, will be found uncomfortably rough, and 
 also too warm. 
 
 For common chambers, rocking-chairs of curled maple and 
 cane net-work are very good, being light, cool, and cheap. In 
 winter, or for invalids, they may be improved in comfort, by 
 furnishing them with cushions for the bottom, the back, and 
 the two arms; the cushions made of coarse linen, stuffed with 
 feathers or hair, covered wiih chintz, and tied on with strings. 
 
 FLOWER-STANDS.— There is a very pretty flower-stand 
 called a jardiniere. It is made in the form of a small maho- 
 gany table, with a top like a dinner tray. Into this tray fits 
 a painted block-tin pan of the same size, with a movable wire 
 cover of trellis-work, the net large and open. This pan is filled 
 with wet sand, and the trellis-work cover is then laid on. 
 Take your flowers (the stalks cut all of a length) and stick 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 195 
 
 ihem firmly down through the wire netting into the sand be- 
 neath. The howers should be tastefully arranged, v/ith the 
 largest in the centre, and the smallest round the edges ; and 
 there must be a sufficient quantity of them to form a mass or 
 close bed. Or you may have the central flowers taller than the 
 others, which should gradually diminish in height all around 
 them, till the small ones near the edge are but just above the 
 rim of the frame. Arranged in this manner, they will look 
 like a bank of flowers. 
 
 The jardiniere has a loose extra top of mahogany, which fits 
 in, and converts it into a complete table when not in use foi 
 flowers. 
 
 In forming' bouquets or nosegays", always put the largest, 
 fullest, and most substantial flowers in the centre, (for instance, 
 roses, dahlias, camellias, &c.,) and those that are smallest, 
 lightest, and most branchy, on the outside. 
 
 Flowers may be placed very handsomely in ^een basket? 
 filled with wet sand. 
 
 SCRAP-JARS. — It is a great convenience to keep standing 
 on the floor, in a corner of the room, a very large jar, for the 
 purpose of receiving bits of waste paper or clippings, which 
 there may be no immediate way to get rid of. If of china, one 
 of these jars will add a handsome ornament to the parlour. 
 For a library (where they are particularly useful) you may get 
 from a grocer, a very large raisin-jar of unglazed earthen, and 
 have it painted all over in oil, so as to imitate china, afterwards 
 varnishing it. For a chamber, or a common sitting-room, we 
 have seen these earthen jars decorated all over wdth flowers, 
 fee, cut out of furniture chintz, pasted on securely, and alter 
 ivards coated with varnish. If done with taste, they look ex 
 \remely weil. From the form of these jars, and being small 
 
l96 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 at the mouth, their contents are not observed, unless purposely 
 looked into, and they will be found excellent receptacles for 
 refuse paper, &,c., particularly in summer, when there is no fire 
 to consume these scraps. 
 
 CLIPPING BAGS. — In a room where any sewing is done, 
 a clipping bag will be found very useful to hang in a conve- 
 nient place, for the purpose of receiving shreds, shapings, &c., 
 of the articles cut out and sewed there. The very smallest bits 
 and scraps of linen, cotton, or silk (even ravellings) are useful 
 to the paper-makers ; and nothing that is useful should be burnt 
 or destroyed. If all the females of our country made a principle 
 of saving in this manner the whole of their shreds and clippings, 
 and also all their rags, there would be less necessity for import- 
 ing rags from Europe : which is constantly done to a very large 
 amount, in consequence of the scanty supply to be obtained in 
 America. 
 
 A clipping bag may be made very handsome and ornamental ; 
 in which case it should always be put away in a closet while 
 the room is being swept. When this bag is full, let it be 
 emptied into the large general rag-bag which should be kept 
 in every house. Though the price given for a pound of rags 
 is but a few cents, still even that is something, and will at least 
 buy some needles, or pins, or a cotton-spool ; and if a lady 
 chooses, she can give the money to the servant who conveys 
 the rags to the rag-man. 
 
 TO CLEAN VARNISHED MAHOGANY FURNI 
 TURE. — Take rotten-stone very finely powdered, sift ii 
 through book-muslin, and mix it with sweet oil. Then, with 
 a clean, soft, linen or cotton cloth, rub it very hard on the ma 
 hogany. Next take a clean cloth, dip it in wheat flour, and 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 197 
 
 A'ith it rub oflf the rotten-stone. Afterwards dust off tl e flour 
 with a clean silk handkerchief. The fum'ture will be found 
 to look beautifully. It is only necessary to clean it in this 
 manner about once in three or four months ; but it should 
 every day be dusted with a soft cotton cloth. 
 
 TO CLEAN UNVARNISHED MAHOGANY TABLES. 
 
 — Wipe the table att over with a clean damp cloth. Then take 
 a thin, broad, flat furniture cork, and rub it hard on all the 
 white spots or other stains. Next take a brush with a little 
 bees-wax on it, and rub the table very hard, going according 
 to the grain of the mahogany. Afterwards rub off the wax 
 with a flannel cloth, and finish with a soft cotton cloth. 
 
 Have a basket or a large coarse bag to' contain all that is 
 necessary for the mahogany rubbing : brush, cork, bees-wax, 
 cloths, &c. Before using it warm the wax a little. 
 
 TO POLISH DINING-TABLES.— Take cold-drawn lin- 
 seed oil, and rub it on for a long time with a very soft cloth. 
 This is the best way to prevent dining-tables from being marked 
 by the hot dishes. 
 
 WAX POLISH. — Melt bees-wax in spirits of turpentine, 
 with a very small proportion of rosin. When it is entirely 
 dissolved, dip in a sponge and wash the mahogany lightly 
 over with it. Immediately afterwards, rub it off with a clean 
 soft cloth. For the carved work, spread on the mixture with 
 a small soft brush, and rub it off with another brush a very 
 little harder. 
 
 TABLE MIXTURE.— Mix well together two ounces of 
 ifpirits of turneftine four table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, and one 
 
198 • THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 quart of milk. Put it into bottles, and cork it closely. When 
 large tables are unusually soiled and stained, (for instance, 
 after a dinner or supper party,) shake up the mixture, pour 
 some of it into a saucer, dip into it a clean sponge, and rub 
 your table all over with it quickly and evenly. Then dry it 
 with a clean flannel, and afterwards rub it hard with a clean 
 soft cloth. 
 
 SOFAS AND MAHOGANY CHAIRS.— With your hand 
 beat the dust out of the backs, bottoms, and cushions. Then 
 with a painter's bristle brush, that has never been in paint, . 
 brush over all the m.ahogany, to get the dust out of the carving. 
 This should be done every day in rooms that are continually 
 in use. When it is necessary to give the chairs, &c., a greatei 
 cleaning, use (if the mahogany is varnished) sweet oil, rubbed 
 on with a flannel, and finished off with a silk handkerchief; 
 or, what is still better, finely powdered and sifted rotten-stone, 
 mixed with sweet oil. If the mahogany is not varnished, have 
 ready> two ounces or more of bees-wax, scraped down and put 
 into a jar with as much spirits of turpentine as will cover it. 
 This must stand till the wax is entirely dissolved. Put a little 
 on a flannel, or on a bit of green baize, rub it on the chairs, and 
 polish them with a brush. 
 
 In buying or bespeaking a sofa, see that the seat is not too 
 high and narrow, that the stuffing ol the back does not project 
 too far forward, and that the arms are not too low ; with these 
 defects any sofa will be uncomfortable. 
 
 Chairs whose backs incline forward are extremely inconve- 
 nient, as they allow little more than their edge to the sitter, 
 who is also obliged to keep .bolt upright, and remain stitlly ir 
 tpe same position. 
 
F U R M T U K E, E T C. 1 9i) 
 
 TO CLEAN ALABASTER.— Make a mixture in the pro- 
 portion of two ounces of aqua-fortis to a pint of cold rain or 
 river water, which ought first to be filtered, as it is important 
 that the water used for this purpose should be perfectly clear. 
 Dip a clean brush in this liquid, and wash the alabaster willi 
 it for five minutes or more. There should»be a brush small 
 enough to^o into the most minute parts. Then rinse it with 
 cold clear water, and set it in the sun for two or three hours 
 
 to dry. 
 
 The aqua-fortis will make the alabaster very white ; and, 
 being so much diluted, will do it no injury. Soap should never 
 be used for alabaster, as it will greatly discolour it. 
 
 Alabaster ornaments ought to be cleaned in the above man- 
 ner, previous to covering them up for the summer. If kept 
 always uncovered, they will require cleaning with aqua-fortis 
 and water twice a year, spring and autumn 
 
 WHITE MARBLE. — White marble door-steps should be 
 washed every morning (except in freezing weather) with cold 
 water and soap. This is the custom in Philadelphia. Grease 
 may be removed from them, by rubbing on some fine marble- 
 dust (procured from the marble-cutters) mixed into a paste with 
 cold water, and put on with a brush ; repeating the process, 
 till the grease disappears. 
 
 Marble tables may also be washed with cold water and soap. 
 
 The white marble used for vases, busts, and very elegant 
 mantel-pieces or tables, being of the finest quality, and highly 
 polished, cannot be washed with soap and water without injury. 
 The best way to keep it clean and bright is, by rubbing it daily 
 with a soft dry cloth, or a clean silk handkerchief. Stains and 
 grease-spots may be extracted from it by rubbing them well 
 with salt of sorrel, silt of tartar, or magnesia finely powdered. 
 
200 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 Let the powder remain two or three hours on the spot; then 
 wipe it off, and renew it till the mark disappears. 
 
 COLOURED MARBLE. — Black, gray, or variegated 
 marble may be made very clean, by rubbing on it with a brush 
 a paste conipount^ of a jill of ox-gall, a jill of strong soap-suds, 
 and half a jill of turpentine, all mixed together and, thickened 
 v/ith finely powdered pipe-clay. You should have a second 
 brush, small enough to go into the fluting, &c. Having applied 
 this paste to the marble, let it remain undisturbed for two days. 
 Then wipe it off; and if you do not find the marble perfectly 
 bright and clean, repeat the mixture a second or a third time, 
 and it will certainly succeed by repetition. 
 
 Grease-spots (even those of lamp-oil) may be removed from 
 a marble hearth, by covering the place thickly with scraped 
 Wilmingtoh clay, wiping it off, and renewing it every two or 
 three hours. Powdered fullers earth may be substituted. 
 
 Grease may also be taken out, by rubbing the stone with a 
 mixture of pearl-ash, lime, and water, made into a paste or 
 mortar; leaving it on several hours; then wiping it off, and 
 repeating it. 
 
 Iron stains may be removed from marble, by wetting the 
 spots with oil of vitriol, or with lemon-juice; or with oxalic 
 acid diluted in spirits of wine, and after a quarter of an hour, 
 rubbing them dry with a soft linen cloth. The same applica- 
 tions will take out other stains from marble. 
 
 The general appearance of a gray marble hearth will be 
 greatly brightened and improved, by rubbing it occasionally 
 with a flannel wet with linseed oil. The oil must be rubbed 
 in very hard, so as not to come off and grease any thing that 
 may afterwards touch it. Next day go over it with a clean 
 lirv cloth. 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 201 
 
 STONE HEARTHS.— Hearths of free-stone or of biown 
 sand-stone, should first be washed clean in hot soap-suds, and 
 then rubbed with a paste or mortar, made of the powder or dust 
 of the same stone, (to be obtained at the stone-cutter's,) mixed 
 with a little water. Leave it to dry on, and then brush it off. 
 
 A kitchen hearth-stone may occasionally be rubbed all over 
 very hard with lamp-oil ; next day washing it well with soap 
 and warm water. 
 
 BRICK HEARTHS.— Brick hearths should be painted 
 either red or black ; or with the back part black, and the front 
 part red. They will require new painting at least twice a year. 
 
 If not painted, it is best to keep the hearth clean by daily 
 washing ; as both the redding and blacking mixtures sometimes 
 used for hearths are troublesome from their liability to rub off, 
 and from their too frequently requiring a renewal. 
 
 CLEANING SILVER.— The articles necessary for this 
 purpose should be kept by themselves in a basket or box. You 
 will want clean flannels, sponges, buckskins, old silk hand- 
 kerchiefs, and plate-brushes of two or three different sizes ; 
 among which, one resembling a soft tooth-brush will be found 
 useful for the minute parts of the chasing, and to rub between 
 the prongs of the forks. None of the brushes should be hard, 
 lest they scratch the plate. Silver that is in daily use should 
 be cleaned once a week, (for instance, every Thursday,) bul 
 plated-ware not so often, as the plating will wear off if rubbed! 
 ioo frequently ; a brush should never be used to it. 
 
 Both silver and plated-ware should be washed with a spong* 
 and warm soap-suds, every day after using, and wiped dry witl 
 a clean soft towel. Always before you give them their regu^'?, 
 cleaning with powder, see that they have been washsd perfectlj. 
 
202 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 free irom grease or any like impurity ; otherwise they cannot 
 be made to look bright and well when finished. 
 
 The most common method of cleaning silver, is with pulve- 
 rized whiting and whisky : or with spirits of wine, which is 
 better. The whiting must be made as fine as possible; for if 
 there are any coarse or rough particles among it, they will 
 scratch the. silver. You may powder it very finely, either by 
 pounding it in a mortar, or by tying it up in a clean rag, laying 
 it down on the hearth, and beating it with a hammer ; after 
 which, spread it thinly over a large plate, and place it before 
 the fire« to dry. Then sift it through a piece of coarse book- 
 muslin or leno. Mix the whiting into a paste or cream, with 
 whisky or spirits of wine ; and by dipping a flannel or sponge 
 into it, coat the silver all over with the mixture; after which, 
 lay all the articles in the sun to dry; or place them on an old 
 japanned waiter, before the fire, but not very near it. The paste 
 raust become so dry on the articles, that you may dust it ofi 
 them like flour, with a soft cloth. Afterwards, with the small- 
 est brush, rub between the prongs of the forks, and go over all 
 the minute or delicate parts of the silver. The plain or unorna- 
 mented parts are best rubbed with flannel, as they show the 
 most trifling scratches. Next, polish with a buckskin or 
 a shammy leather; and finish with a soft silk handkerchief. 
 
 The above mode of cleaning (if done weekly) will be suffi- 
 cient for silver that is in common use, and will keep it always 
 bright. Its appearance may be improved, and a look of new- 
 ness given to it, by employing occasionally (but not very often) 
 the reddish powder called plate-rouge, as a substitute for 
 whiting and whisky. This powder is to be obtained from the 
 druggists, and should be used in very small quantities. After 
 the silver has been well washed in warm soap-suds and drietl 
 • perfectly, rub on a little of the roug^e with a soft buckskin 
 
FURNITURE, ETO. 203 
 
 using a brush for the crevices. Let it rest about ten minutes y 
 then wipe it all off with a soft rag, and polish with a clean 
 buckskin; finishing with a silk handkerchief. 
 
 When silver has become much tarnished, spotted, or dis- 
 coloured, it may be restored by the following process. Having 
 dissolved two tea-spoonfuls of powdered alum in a quart of 
 moderately strong lye, stir in a jill of soft soap, and remove 
 the scum or dross that may rise to the surface. After washing 
 the silver in hot water, take a sponge and cover every article 
 all over with this mixture. Let the things rest about a quarter 
 of an hour, frequently turning them. Next wash them off in 
 warm soap-suds, and wipe them dry with a soft cloth. After- 
 wards brighten them with rouge-powder, or with whiting and 
 spirits of wine. 
 
 Another, and a very excellent way of cleaning silver, 13 
 with what is called prepared cha/k, which is rather better than 
 whiting, and requires no sifting. Mix together in a tin pan, pre 
 pared chalk and spirits of wine, till they are as thick as cream. 
 Rub it on the silver with a soft flannel, and then rub it off with 
 a buckskin. Take a small brush for the chasing or embossed 
 work, and finish with a very soft cloth and a silk handkerchief. 
 
 Another way, and which is said to preserve the polish better 
 than any of the usual modes of cleaning silver, is, after it has 
 been washed with hot water, to go over it with a paste mady 
 of iine hartshorn powder (well sifted) and spirits of turpentine, 
 rubbed on with a -leather and not wiped off till it has dried. 
 Then polish with a clean buckskin ; and set the plate in the 
 sun and air to dispel the smell of the turpentine. 
 
 Chests, or closets constructed for the purpose of containing 
 plate, should be placed in the dryest part of the house, and 
 lined all through with green baize or other w^oollen cloth. If 
 is well to have them of iron, and made fire proof. Plate 
 
204 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 baskets should also be lined throughout with grecj baize. I( 
 silver is kept in a damp place, it is liable to tarnish and spot 
 continually. 
 
 TO REMOVE MEDICINE STAINS FROM SILVER 
 SPOONS. — Silver spoons frequently become discoloured by 
 using them in taking medicine. These stains (even that of 
 muriate of iron) may be removed by rubbing the spoon with a 
 rag dipped in sulphuric acid, and afterwards washing it off in 
 soap-sups, and then cleaning the spoon in the usual manner 
 
 A FINE PLATE MIXTURE.— Take one pound of the 
 best whiting, or of prepared chalk, and rub it to a fine powder. 
 Then sift it. Mix together four ounces of spirits of turpentine : 
 two ounces of spirits of wine : one ounce of spirits of cam- 
 phor, and half an ounce of spirits of hartshorn. Then add the 
 whiting gradually to the liquid, stirring in a little at a time, 
 and mixing the whole thoroughly till it is of the consistence 
 of cream : put it into a very close vessel, (a large bottle, or a 
 white jar,) and cork it tightly, tying down a leather over the 
 cork. To use the mixture, pour out a sufficient portion into a 
 bowl or pan, and with a soft clean sponge cover the silver with 
 it so as to give it a coat like white-wash. Set the silver aside 
 for ten minutes or more till the paste has dried into a powder. 
 Then brush it off, tind polish first with a buckskin, then with a 
 silk handkerchief. 
 
 It will be found very convenient t j keep this mixture always 
 in the nouse. It makes the plate look beautifully new. 
 
 ANOTHER PLATE MIXTURE.— Pulverize an ounce 
 of lump camphor, mix it with fifty drops of sweet oil, and 
 dissolve it in a pint of whisky. Put it into a bottle and keep 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 205 
 
 it very. closely corked. When you wish to use it, mix with it 
 a sufficiency of powdered whiting or prepared chalk to make a 
 thin paste, and coat the silver all over with it. After it is dried 
 on, brush it off, and polish with a buckskin and silk handker- 
 chief; using a small brush for the cavities and chasings. 
 
 TO OBTAIN VERY FINE WHITING.— Pour water on 
 it. Then after a while, pour off the water from the whiting 
 that has settled at the bottom, and replace it with more water. 
 Let it settle for a time, and then again pour off the water from 
 the top. By repeating this process several times, you will 
 obtain a whiting that, after it has been spread out to dry in the 
 sun, will be as fine as flour. Put it away for use in a closely 
 covered box. 
 
 CLEANING PLATED WARE.— Plated ware must not 
 be cleaned as frequently as silver, lest the plating should wear 
 off. If not greasy, it will be sufficient, after using, to wipe it 
 with a soft cloth. If greasy, wash it in a small tub of strong 
 hot soap-suds ; taking out each article quickly, and wiping it 
 immediately with a soft linen cloth ; using a clean flannel to dry 
 it thoroughly, and finishing with a silk handkerchief. Once a 
 fortnight it may be cleaned by covering it with prepared chalk 
 finely powdered, and made into a paste with sweet oil. When the 
 mixture has dried on, wash it off with a sponge dipped in spirits 
 of wine or whisky. Then rub the article dry with a soft flan- 
 nel, and finish with a silk handkerchief. It is best to use no 
 brush for plated ware, and to give it less rubbing than if it 
 were silver. With careful cleaning the best plated ware will 
 last a long time. 
 
 18 
 
206 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 SILVER AND PLATED CANDLESTICKS.— To re- 
 move wax or spermaceti from silver or plated candlesticks, 
 pour on them a little warm (not boiling) water, and when it 
 has melted the grease, wipe it off with a flannel. To loosen 
 the grease by scraping with a knife will scratch the silver. 
 Then wash the candlesticks well with a sponge dipped in warm 
 soap-suds, taking care not to wet the green baize that is 
 cemented under the bottom, lest the moisture should loosen it. 
 Wash the candlesticks one at a time, and wipe each one dry 
 before you wash another. Then clean them with fine whiting 
 or prepared chalk and whisky, in the usual manner, or with 
 whiting and sweet oil. 
 
 Plated candlesticks should be cleaned but seldom with any 
 sort of powder, and never with a brush. Their utmost rubbing 
 should be with a soft flannel. But every morning let the wax 
 or spermaceti be melted off with warm water, and then wipe 
 them clean with a soft cloth. 
 
 GERMAN SILVER. — Forks of this composition are much 
 in use ; and when very good it has a resemblance to genuine 
 silver, and is equally durable. It is by no means costly, and 
 when properly taken care of, and kept bright, it looks very well. 
 After using, it should be put immediately into hot water, washed 
 well, and wiped dry with a soft cloth. Once a week let it be 
 washed in soap-suds, and then cleaned with very fine whiting 
 or prepared chalk, mixed with whisky or spirits of wine, so 
 as to make a paste, which should afterwards be brushed off. 
 Should this metal become discoloured or spotted by vinegar or 
 Qther acids, wash it first, and then clean it with sweet oil and 
 powdered rotten-stone. 
 
 Spoons of German silver are useful for many common pur' 
 poses, particularly when making sweetmeats, &o.- 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 207 
 
 BrItANNIA metal— Powder, as fine as possible, half 
 a pound of lump whiting-, and sift it well. Then mix with it 
 a wine-glass of sweet oil, and a table-spoonful of soft soap, or a 
 bit of yellow soap melted in a little water. Add to this mixture 
 sufficient rum, whisky, or spirits of wine to make it the con- 
 sistence of thick cream. Dip into it a soft sponge or a flannel, 
 and rub it quickly and evenly on the article ; wipe it off with 
 an old linen or cotton cloth, and polish it by rubbing with a 
 buckskin. 
 
 Britannia metal is frequently manufactured with so large a 
 portion of copper as to render the use of the article extremely 
 unwholesome. Tea and coffee-pots of this metal have been 
 know^n to give the liquid contained in them so strong a taste 
 and smell of copper, as to render the drinking it almost equal 
 to swallowing poison. When an article of Britannia metal is 
 found to contain too much copper, the use of it should be imme- 
 diately given up, as no process whatever can render it otherwise 
 than deleterious. 
 
 The safest, and in every respect the most pleasant tea-pots, 
 are those of china. Wedgwood ware is very apt, after a while, 
 to acquire a disagreeable taste. 
 
 BLOCK TIN DISH COVERS, &c.— Having washed the 
 block tin articles quite clean in warm water, rub the inside with 
 soft rags moistened with fine wet whiting. Then take a soft 
 linen cloth, and go over the outside with a little sweet oil. 
 Next rub it all over with fine whiting, powdered and sifted, 
 and put on dry. Afterwards finish w4th a clean dry cloth. 
 Block tin dish covers cleaned in this way with oil and whitinp-, 
 will preserve their polish, and continue to look new, provided 
 that they are always wiped dry as soon as they aie brought 
 
208 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 from table, and no steam or other damp is allowed to remain 
 on them. 
 
 Common articles of block tin, such as kettles, sauce-pans, 
 &c., may be cleaned with whiting and water only. You may 
 clean pewter in the same manner. 
 
 COMMON TINS. — Throw some wood-ashes into a wash- 
 kettle, pour on water till it is two-thirds full, and then let it 
 boil. Or make a strong lye. Dip in the tins when it is boil- 
 ing hot ; and, if they are very dirty, leave them in about ten 
 minutes. Take them out, and cover them with a mixture of 
 soft soap and the very finest sand. This must be rubbed on 
 with a coarse tow-cloth. Then rinse them in a tub of cbld 
 water, and set them in the sun to drain and dry. When dry, 
 finish by rubbing them well with a clean woollen cloth or flan- 
 nel. They will look very nice and bright. 
 
 You may clean pewter in the same manner. 
 
 CLEANING JAPANNED WAITERS, URNS, &c.-. 
 Rub on with a sponge a little white soap and some luke-warra 
 water, and wash the waiter or urn quite clean. Never use hot 
 water, as it will cause the japan to scale off. Having wiped 
 it dry, sprinkle a little flour over it; let it rest a while, and then 
 rub it with a soft dry cloth, and finish with a silk handker- 
 chief. If there are white heat marks on the waiters, they will 
 be difficult to remove. But you may try rubbing them with a 
 funnel dipped in sweet oil, and afterwards in spirits of wine. 
 
 Waiters and other articles oi papier mache^ should be washed 
 with a sponge and cold water without soap, dredged with 
 flour while damp, and after a while wiped off, and tlien po- 
 lished vviih a silk handkerchief. 
 
FUUNITURE, ETC. 209 
 
 TO CLEAN JAPANNED CANDLE-STICKS, fee- 
 Pour on water just warm enough to melt the grease, for if scald- 
 ing hot it will injure the japan. Next wipe them well v/ithasoft 
 cloth ; sprinkle them with flour from the dredging box : let 
 them rest a while, and then wipe them off with a clean cloth. 
 
 Japanned urns, waiters, &c., should be cleaned with a sponge 
 and cold water, finishing with a soft dry cloth. So also 
 should India lacquered articles. 
 
 TO CLEAN DECANTERS, &c.— Place a funnel in the 
 mouth of the decanter, and pour through it some small shot, or 
 some raw un-pared potato cut into little square bits, or some 
 pounded egg-shells. Have ready in a small tub, a strong suds of 
 white soap and cold water, which will be the better for having 
 a little pearl-ash dissolved in it: or a few drops of muriatic 
 acid mixed with the water will greatly improve the polish of 
 the glass. Dip out some of the suds, pour it into the decanter 
 (through the funnel) and shake it about with the shot, or cut 
 potato, from five to ten minutes, till you see all the impurities 
 disappear from the inside of the glass. Then empty it out, 
 put in some more suds, and wash round the inside with a bit 
 of sponge tied on the end of a stick. It is well to have a 
 regular glass-stick, which should be more than a foot in length, 
 with a flat knob at the end on which to fasten a sponge or a 
 soft rag. After having washed the decanters in the above 
 manner, rinse them out twice with clear cold water. Next put 
 them into the tub of clean soap-suds, and wash them well on 
 the outside with a glass-brush, (a brush with a broad handle 
 and short bristles,) and afterwards rinse the outside in clean 
 water. Dry the inside with a bit of soft rag fixed to the end 
 of your glass-stick, and wipe the outside with a soft towel, 
 
 finishing with a silk handkerchief, or a shammy leather, or a 
 
 18 
 
210 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 soft buckskin ; rubbing well into all the cavities, if the glass 
 IS cut. 
 
 Wine-glasses and tumblers should be washed in the same 
 manner with cold soap-suds and a glass-brush, finishing them 
 as above. 
 
 Common glasses that are in daily use, may be washed sim- 
 ply with cold water; drained, wiped, and then finished with a 
 fine dry towel. 
 
 Glass cloths should be of fine quality, that there may be as 
 little lint as possible. 
 
 For cruets from the castors, it will be necessary to have the 
 water warm : but not hot, as glasses break when hot water is 
 poured into them. After the cruets are emptied of their con- 
 tents for the purpose of washing, fill them, as far as the neck, 
 with warm water ; shake them, and let them stand a while to 
 soak. Then proceed as directed for decanters. 
 
 Boiling water should never be poured suddenly into glass, 
 particularly in frosty weather. Besides the danger of its crack- 
 ino- in hot water, it looks brighter and clearer when done in cold. 
 
 TO LOOSEN GLASS STOPPERS.— When there U 
 difficulty in removing a glass stopper, pour round it a little 
 sweet oil, close to the mouth of the bottle. Then lay it near 
 the fire with the mouth towards the heat, and when it gets 
 quite warm, wrap a thick cloth round the end of a stick, and 
 strike (but not too hard) first at one side of the stopper, then 
 at the other. This will soon loosen it. Or you may set the 
 bottle in a vessel of warn water, previous to striking at the 
 stopper. 
 
 CLEANING CUT GLASS.— Having washed your cui- 
 glass articles, and let them rest till thoroughly dry, rub them 
 
 - '^^^ 
 
FURNITUKE, ETC. 
 
 211 
 
 with prepared chalk, and a soft brush, carefully goinor into 
 all the flutings and cavities. Then finish with a clean soft 
 buckskin. 
 
 TO Vv^ASHVIALS.— In most families are gradually collected 
 a numbe' of vials that have been used for medicine. It is well 
 to have a basket purposely to keep them in, and once in a while 
 to wash them all, that they may be ready to send to the drug- 
 gist's when new medicine is wanted. Put into a wash-kettle 
 some sifted ashes, and pour on it a sufficiency of cold water. 
 Then put in the vials, (without corks,) place the kettle over 
 the fire, and let it gradually come to a boil. After it has boiled 
 a while, take it off, and set it aside ; letting the vials remain 
 in till cold. Then take them cut, rinse, drain them, and wipe 
 the outsides. 
 
 You may wash black bottles in tne same manner. 
 If you have occasion to" wash a single vial or bottle, pour 
 into it through a small funnel either some lye, or some luke- 
 warm water in which a little pearUash has been dissolved ; 
 shake it, and let it stand a while to soak. Then rinse it well 
 in cold water, two or three times. If it still smells of the 
 former contents, soak it in more pearl-ash water, (with the 
 addition of a little lime,) or in more lye. 
 
 CLEANING LOOKING-GLASSES. — First wash the 
 glass all over with clean luke-warm soap-suds and a sponge. 
 When dry, rub it bright with a buckskin and a little prepared 
 chalk, finely powdered. Finish with a silk handkerchief. 
 
 This is also an excellent way to clean the inside of windows; 
 it makes the glass beautifully clear. 
 
 Another very good way of cleaning a mirror, is to wash it 
 irst with a sponge and cold water, and afterwards with a soft 
 
212 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 flannel dipped in whisky or spirits of wine, which will effect 
 ualiy remove from it all smears and fly-marks. Then, having 
 wiped it dry with a soft linen cloth, rub over it with a soft 
 flannel a little powder-blue, or else fine whiting. Let it rest a 
 whi^C', and then rub it off with a silk handkerchief. 
 
 In cleaning" looking-glasses, take care that no moistur 
 touches the gilding of the frame. To clean a burnished gilt 
 frame, nothing is better than to go over it lightly with bits 
 of soft cotton wool, or a piece of the inside of new wadding ; 
 having first dusted it with a feather brush. 
 
 A mahogany frame should be first well dusted, and then 
 cleaned with a flannel dipped in sweet oil; using a small brush 
 for the carvings, if there are any, and finishing with a silk 
 handkerchief. The frame should be cleaned previously to tho 
 glass. 
 
 TO CLEAN GILT LAMPS, CHANDELIERS, CAN- 
 DLE-BRANCHES, &c.— Having first wiped off the dust from 
 the articles to be cleaned, make a strong suds of the finest white 
 soap (palm soap will do) and soft luke-warm water, and, dip- 
 ping into it a clean sponge, wash carefully every part of the 
 gilding. Then, with a small soft brush, (a tooth-brush, for 
 instance,) go lightly into all the hollows, crevices, and most 
 delicate parts of the work with the soap-suds, taking care not 
 to rub hard. When you find that the water has become dirty, 
 replace it with clean suds. Finish by drying the articles with 
 an old silk handkerchief. 
 
 Unless your servants are unusually careful, do not intrust 
 this work to them, lest they break off some of the minute orna- 
 ments, or rub so hard as to deface the gilding. 
 
 This mo(le of cleaning will not succeed with the frames of 
 pictures or mirrors. For them there is no safe remedy, when 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 213 
 
 Ihey are soiled and discoloured, but to have tliem newly 
 gilt. 
 
 Chandeliers should be dusted at least once a week, (or 
 oAener if necessary,) with one of those long-handled, soft fea- 
 ther brushes made for such purposes. Great care is requisite 
 in dusting them, (even in this manner,) as the drops and other 
 ornaments must be touched with the utmost delicacy. This 
 work, also, should not be intrusted to any but the most careful 
 domestics. 
 
 Bronzed chandeliers, lamps, &c., should be merely dusted 
 with a feather brush or w4th a soft cloth. Washing them will 
 take off the bronzinof. 
 
 CLEANING KNIVES AND FORKS— It is an excellent 
 way to have, at dinner-time, on a side-table, a deep, tall, japanned 
 or painted mug or can, filled with sufficient hot water to cover 
 the blades of the knives and forks, but not enough to reach to 
 their handles, which the hot water would split or loosen. As 
 the plates are taken from the table, the servant who waits 
 should at once stand the knives and forks upright (blade down- 
 wards) in this vessel of warm w-ater, which will prevent the 
 grease from drying on them, and make them very easy to wash 
 when dinner is over. Afterwards, let them be carried out in 
 the knife-basket, which should be lined with tin. Then wash 
 them with water, warm, but not hot, and a soft cloth ; and wipe 
 them dry on a clean towel, always turning the back or dull 
 edge towards your thumb. Besides the washing, as many as 
 are wanted for use should be cleaned, previous to every meal, 
 on a board with brick-dust; otJierwise they will neither bo 
 bright nor sharp. 
 
 The knife-board should be of soft pine, free from knots, five 
 or six feet long, and made with standers or feet at the ends. 
 
214 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 like a bench. It will last much longer if the part most used 
 is covered with leather. A yard is a good height for a knife- 
 board. At one end have a small box, to contain the leathers, 
 bricks, fork-sticks, &c. What is called Bath brick is the 
 proper sort for cleaning knives ; it is whitish and soft. Rub 
 the brick up and down on the board till you have got off a suf- 
 ficiency of powder ; or you may take a brick in each hand and 
 rub them together. Then, taking one knife at a time, hold the 
 handle firmly in your hand, and with a quick motion rub the 
 blade (on both sides) in the brick-dust, taking care not to bear 
 on too hard, lest you break it. By practice, you may learn to 
 clean * wo knives at once, holding one in each hand, back to 
 back. As you do them, lay them aside till you are ready to 
 wipe them off. Replenish the board with fresh brick-dust as 
 you go on. When they are all rubbed bright, wipe off the 
 knives with a clean cloth, and put them into your knife-box, 
 which should be previously wiped out quite clean. If you 
 have steel forks, rub their backs on the brick-dust board till 
 they are very bright. Have by you a small flat stick of pine 
 wood, shaped like a knife-blade, about the length of your mid- 
 dle finger, and covered with leather. Dip it into the brick-dust, 
 and rub it between the prongs of the forks, to clean and brighten 
 them. Then wipe them carefully with your knife-cloth, stick- 
 ing the forks through its corners, to get out all the brick-dust 
 from between the prongs. 
 
 Another way to clean steel forks is, to keep always beside 
 the knife-board a box or a small keg, filled with chopped hay 
 or straw and fine sand, in alternate layers, pressed down very 
 hard, and having sand mixed with brick-dust at the top. The 
 contents must all be packed closely, and kept damp by occa- 
 sional wetting. Plunge the steel .part of the forks a few times 
 into this; the i wipe them afterwards with a clean cloth, 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 215 
 
 (inserting the comer between the prongs,) and then polish them 
 with the fork-stick, wtlhout brick-dust. 
 
 Handles of ebony should be cleaned with a soft cloth dipped 
 in a little sweet oil ; and after resting a while with the oil on 
 them, let them be well wiped M'ith a clean towel. Ivory or 
 bone handles ought to be washed with a soaped flannel and 
 lukewarm water, and then wiped with a dry towel. To pre- 
 serve or restore their whiteness, soak them occasionally in 
 alum-water that has been boileu and then grown cold. liCt 
 them lie for an hour in a vessel of this alum-water. Then take 
 them out, and brush them well with a small brush, (a tooth- 
 brush will do,) and afterwards take a clean lineii towel, dip it 
 in cold water, squeeze it out, and, while wet, wrap it round the 
 handles, leaving them in it to dry gradually ; as, if dried too 
 fast out of the alum-water, they will be injured. If properly 
 managed, this process will make them very white. 
 
 To keep knives and forks in good order, when not in conti- 
 nual use, and to restore them when found rusty, have them well 
 cleaned, and then rub the steel part with a flannel dipped in 
 sweet oil, or in melted mutton suet. Let them rest several 
 hours ; then dust them all over with finely powdered quick- 
 lime, tied up in a thin muslin bag. In two or three days, wipe 
 oif the oil and lime ; rub them with a buckskin or shammy 
 leather ; wrap them first in green baize, and then an outside 
 covering of coarse brown paper, and put them away. They 
 should always be kept in a dry place. 
 
 Another way of cleaning knives and forks is, after washing 
 tlie blades in warm (but not hot) water, and wiping them dry. 
 to rub them lightly over with powdered rotten-stone wet to a 
 paste with a little cold water. Let it dry on ; and then wipe 
 it off", and polish them with a clean cloth. It is said they wil. 
 last much loncrcr if cleaned in this manner than in the usual 
 
216 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 way of rubbing them on a board with brick-dust; but as it will 
 not keep the knives sharp, they must be frequently whetted on 
 a knife steel, or on a whetstone. 
 
 TO CLEAN FIRE-IRONS.— Mix together a tea-spoonful 
 of oil of vitriol, a table-spoonful of sweet oil, and half a pint 
 "of spirits of turpentine: put them into a bottle, and cork it 
 tightly. When you want to use it, mix this liquid with suffi- 
 cient finely-powdered rotten-stone to make a soft paste ; and 
 with a coarse woollen cloth rub it on your shovel, tongs, poker, 
 &c., or on the bars of your grate if you wish to brighten them. 
 Having rubbed it on well, wipe it off with a soft cloth of linen 
 or cotton, and then polish with dry potten-stone and a piece of 
 leather. 
 
 Another way to clean fire-irons is to rub them with a piece 
 of flannel dipped first in oil, and then in emery powder of the 
 quality called No. 3. Rub hard and quick, and then polish 
 with a leather and some powdered rotten-stone. 
 
 You can get emery powder at the iron stores or at the paint 
 stores. The coarse is best for some purposes, the fine for 
 others. 
 
 BLACKING FOR STOVES.— Take half a pound of 
 black lead finely powdered, and (to make it stick) mix with it 
 the whites of three eggs well beaten ; then dilute it with sour 
 beer or porter till it becomes about as thin -as shoe-blacking. 
 Having stirred it well, set it over hot coals, and let it simmer 
 for twenty minutes. When cold, pour it into a stone jug, cork 
 it tightly, and keep it for use. It must be rubbed on the stove 
 with a soft brush, and then polished off quickly with a clean hard 
 brush, as you would a boot. It should be put on when the 
 stove is cold, first removing the ashes, and then wiping off all 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 217 
 
 the dust with a cloth. Till it is quite dry tlo not sweep the 
 hearth or replenish the fire. 
 
 You may buy at the stores where stoves and grates are sold, 
 or at the paint-stores, an excellent black varnish to be put on 
 with a large bristle brush when the iron is cold. No dust or 
 ashes must be allowed to get to it till the varnish is perfectly 
 dry; otherwise you will have to do it all over again. Wash 
 the brush afterwards, in spirits of turpentine, and then in 
 warm water. 
 
 TO PREVENT FIRE IRONS FROM RUSTING.— 
 
 When you are going to put your fire irons away for the sum- 
 mer, have ready some fresh mutton suet melted ; and while 
 hot, smear it all over the irons. Next dredge or sprinkle them 
 well with unslacked lime, powdered and tied up in a thin 
 muslin rag. Then wrap them tightly all over in thick brown 
 paper, so as entirely to exclude the air, securing the paper with 
 twine. Keep them in a dry place; and previous to again 
 taking. them into use, wipe them clean, first with old flannel 
 and then with soft rags. 
 
 TO TAKE RUST OUT OF STEEL.— Rub the steel 
 well with a piece of flannel dipped in sweet oil. Then cover 
 It with slacked lime, put it into a dry place, and let it rest foi 
 two days. Afterwards wipe it clean, and then rub on some 
 whiting finely powdered. Finish with dry whiting and a 
 buckskin. 
 
 Rust may also be removed from steel by rubbing on a mix- 
 ture of sweet oil and emery laid on with a bristle brush, or 
 with a bit of spongy green rod split fine at the end. Lei the 
 eteel rest in the emery for two or three days, then wipe it off". 
 
 19 
 
218 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 POLISHED IRON.— Polished iron work may be preserved 
 from rust by going lightly over it with copal varnish, mixed 
 with nearly an equal quantity of spirits of turpentine, and as 
 much sweet oil as will give the mixture a little greasiness. 
 Lay on this mixture with a bristle brush, (which must after 
 wards be washed directly in warm water,) and see that no dua* 
 or ashes gets to it while drying. The varnish may be obtained 
 from a paint-shop or from a chair-maker's. 
 
 TO CLEAN BRASS. — Dissolve in a pint of soft water an 
 ounce of oxalic acid, (which is poisonous and should be wel) 
 taken care of,) and keep it in a bottle labelled "Poison." 
 Always shake it well before using it. Hub it on the brass wit\ 
 a flannel, and then take a dry flannel to polish it. Use this . 
 solution twice a week, and next day have ready some pulve- 
 rized rotten-stone, sifted through a muslin rag, and mixed with 
 oil of turpentine, so as to be liquid. Rub this on with a buck- 
 skin, let it rest ten minutes, and then wipe it off with a 
 cloth. 
 
 Brass cleaned in this manner looks beautifully. 
 
 For cleaning brasses belonging to mahogany furniture, either 
 powdered whiting or scraped rotten-stone mixed with sweet 
 oil, and rubbed on with a buckskin, is excellent. Let it rest a 
 little while, and then wipe it well oflf, seeing that none of the 
 mixture lodges in the hollows of the brass. In cleaning brass 
 handles, hold the handle firmly with one hand, while you clean 
 with the other, otherwise the handles will soon become loosened 
 by the unsteadiness of the friction. Lay underneath an old 
 newspaper, to catch the droppings. 
 
 Oxalic acid being poisonous, care must be taken that none 
 of the liquid gets into the eyes, when used for rubbing. Should 
 this by any accident happen, immediately get a bowl full to 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. S19 
 
 the brim of cold water, and hold the eyes open in it, till the 
 pain abates; repeating it at intervals during the day. 
 
 Holding the eyes open in cold water will frequently relieve 
 Ihem from an engine spark, or a mote, or particle of any sub- 
 stance that has flown in accidentally. Eye-glasses for this 
 purpose are to be obtained at the apothecaries'. 
 
 To remove the stain of oxalic acid from a dress, rub the spot 
 with a sponge dipped in hartshorn diluted with a little water ; 
 this will cause it almost immediately to disappear. 
 
 CLEANING STAIR-RODS.— Pulverize some rotten-stone, 
 and when the powder is made very fine, mix it with sweet oil. 
 Then, with a woollen cloth, rub it well on each stair-rod. 
 Polish with a soft buckskin, on which must be rubbed a little 
 dry rotten-stone finely powdered. Any other brass may be 
 cleaned to advantacre in this manner. 
 
 CLEANING A BRASS KETTLE.~A brass, bell-metal, 
 or copper kettle should always be cleaned immediately after 
 using. Even when not used, it will require occasional cleaning ; 
 oiherwise it will collect rust or verdigrease, which is a strong 
 poison. 
 
 To clean it properly, after washing it out with a cloth and 
 warm water, put into the kettle a large tea-cupful of vinegar, 
 and a large tea-spoonful of salt, and hang it over the fire. Let 
 it get quite warm ; and then take it off, dip in a clean rag, and 
 wash the whole inside of the kettle thoroughly with the salt 
 and vinegar; after which, wash it w^ell with warm water. 
 Next, take wood-ashes and clean rags, and scour it well. 
 Afterwards, wash it with hot soap-suds, and finish, by rinsmg 
 it with cold water, and wiping it with a dry cloth, both inside 
 and out. 
 
220 THE HOUSE BOOK, » 
 
 These kettles should be kept always clean, that they may be 
 ready for use at any time they are wanted. So also should 
 every vessel of brass or copper. 
 
 PORCELAIN OR ENAMELLED KETTLES.— These 
 
 kettles, which are of cast iron, lined all through with a coating 
 of coarse white china, have now (in all places where they can 
 be procured) superseded the use of bell-metal and brass for 
 preserving and pickling, and for many nice purposes. They 
 are more easily kept clean than any other vessels for cooking, 
 and of course preclude all danger of rust from liquids or acids. 
 Those of German manufacture are the best. It is well in every 
 kitchen, to have several of these excellent utensils of different 
 sizes, from a large preserving kettle down to a small saucepan. 
 Great care must be taken, not to have a fierce blaze under 
 them, or round them. This, however, is not necessary in that 
 sort of cooking for which they are particularly useful. To 
 guard against any accidental danger of the porcelain cracking 
 by too hot a fire, it is well to toughen them (as the cooks call 
 it) as soon as they are brought home from the shop. For this 
 purpose, first wash your kettle well in warm water. Then fill 
 it with equal quantities of bran and cold water, set it over a 
 moderate fire, and let it continue on it half an hour or more after 
 the mixture has come to a boil. Then take the kettle off the fire, 
 and let it stand till the water is cold. Throw out this water, 
 and repeat the process with fresh bran ; and after it has boiled 
 sufficiently, take it off, and let it stand till next day. After 
 which, throw out the bran, and wash the kettle well with clear 
 warm water, and it will be fit for use. 
 
 Always after using the kettle for preserving or pickling, give 
 it a boiling with wood-ashes and water, and then wash it clean. 
 
 It is said that any articles of new china or earthen are 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 221 
 
 rendered less liable to break, if, previous to using them, they 
 are boiled, as above, in bran-water, which is considered to 
 strengthen the glazing. 
 
 TEA-KETTLES. — A tea-kettle should on no account be 
 used for any other purpose than for boiling water. Some cooks 
 have a foolish practice of always boiling their potatoes in the 
 tea-kettle. Let this be positively forbidden, as it will give a 
 peculiar and disagreeable taste to the tea-water that is boiled 
 in it afterwards. The tea-kettle should be washed out every 
 day, to remove the sediment deposited in it by the water. If 
 this is neglected, it will become coated on the inside with a 
 sort of dirty fur. Once a fortnight, at least, the kettle should 
 be thoroughly cleaned, by scouring it first with sand or wood- 
 ashes, and then with soap-suds ; rinsing it off with cold water, 
 and wiping it dry. Wash well the inside of the spout. 
 
 In boiling a kettle, care must be taken to put on the lid 
 cl'jseir/, so as not to leave the smallest crevice. If the lid is in 
 the least brok n or bent, it is best to get a new one ; otherwise 
 the water is liable to be smoked and rendered unfit for use, 
 communicating a most disagreeable taste to the tea. 
 
 See that the water is actually boiling hard at the time it is 
 poured on the tea; otherwise it will not draw out the strength, 
 and the tea will taste weak and flat, however large the quantity 
 put into the pot, which also should be previously scalded twice 
 
 We do not recommend copper tea-kettles. The tin lining 
 
 soon begins to wear off; and, if not renewed immediately, the 
 
 copper will render the water extremely unwholesome, and the 
 
 tea almost poisonous. To set on a chafing-dish or furnace, 
 
 when the tea is made in the parlour, a bright block tin kettle 
 
 will look sufficiently well. 
 
 If you use an urn, the heater must be put into the fire about 
 
 19* 
 
222 T n E II O U S E B O O K. 
 
 a quarter of an hour before tea, and not taken out till it is red- 
 hot. Then lift it with the tongs, and slip it into the cylinder ; 
 the urn being previously filled with hot water from a boiling 
 kettle. The inside of the urn (including that of the lid) should 
 be washed out every day, and the outside wiped with a soft cloth. 
 
 TO WASH TEA-THINGS.— For this purpose have a large 
 tin or earthen pan, with warm water, and a clean, thick, soft 
 towel, a yard long ; huckaback is best for this purpose. Put 
 the saucers first into the water, wash them round in it, and then 
 take them out, one by one, and turn them up to drain along the 
 side of the japanned waiter. Do the same with the cups. 
 Then wipe them all very dry. 
 
 You will find it convenient to have near you, all the time, a 
 hot kettle, for the purpose of replenishing the pan with clean 
 warm water when necessary : and you may probably require 
 two towels. 
 
 When the cream-jug is empty, fill it with hot water, and lei 
 it stand till you have done the cups ; then wash it. 
 
 Having completely emptied the tea-pot, (and saved the tea- 
 leaves in a jar, for the purpose of strewing on the carpets wher, 
 about to sweep them,) fill it with hot water, and let it stand s 
 while ; then rinse it round, pour out the water, and wipe th^ 
 outside. If any tea-leaves are allowed to remain in it, thej 
 will injure the taste of the next tea. 
 
 If the tea-things are numerous, you will require clean warm 
 water for the small plates, &c. Be careful to wash every ar'jck 
 clean, and to wipe it dry, so as to leave no stickiness. 
 
 Before throwing out the dirty water, put your hand dc.%M to 
 the bottom of the pan, to feel if any tea-spoons are renif i^lng 
 there. Tea-spoons are often lost by being carelessly tf.Towu 
 out with the cup-water. 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 223 
 
 In washing tea-things, it is a great saving of the hands to 
 use a little cup -swab or mop, such as are made by the society 
 of Shakers, and are to be obtained wherever their wares are 
 sold. Taking one of these by the handle in your right hand, 
 and dipi>ing the woollen or thrum end into the water, you can 
 wash the things very clean while holding them at the edgo. 
 between the thumb and finger of your left hand. 
 
 WASHING PLATES AND DISHES, &c.— Unless there 
 is a regular boiler kept always on the kitchen fire, the cook 
 should hang ona large pot of clean water at the time of every 
 meal, as soon as she has sent in the dishes for the table, thai 
 it may be hot when she is ready to wash them. Large deep 
 baskets, lined with tin, are very convenient for the purpose of 
 receiving the dirty plates to be carried into the kitchen. Con- 
 veyed in this manner, they are much less liable to be broken 
 than when piled on a tray or waiter : particularly if they are to 
 be taken down stairs. 
 
 For dish-washing there should be two tubs, one of hot water 
 and one of cold ; also two large cloths and a thick clean towel. 
 A wooden plate-rack, to stand them in, separately, while drain- 
 ing, is a great convenience; otherwise they are generally 
 drained by laying them bottom upwards, one a little over the- 
 other, in the sink, which should previously be washed down, 
 that it may be quite clean for the purpose. Unless the dish- 
 water is very hot, the grease will not come off well, and the 
 things will look smeared and feel sticky. Put the plates into 
 the tub of hot water, and wash them first, using the dish-cloth 
 to each, and putting each as you do it into the tub of cold water 
 to finse. When the water becomes too grezfey, pour it out and 
 replenish with fresh. Before you wash the dishes and sauctv 
 boats, scrape off from them with a knife all the thickest of the 
 
224 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 grease into a deep plate, or something of the sort, from which 
 you can transfer it afterwards to the receptacle for the soap-fat. 
 
 While rinsing the things in ccld water, instead of your baie 
 hand use a clean cloth that is quite free from grease. Then, 
 having drained them well, wipe them dry with a clean thick 
 towel, and place them on the dresser. 
 
 Previous to washing the dishes, scrape off with a knife what- 
 ever may adhere to the inside of the pots, pans, roasters, &c., 
 that have been used in cooking the dinner ; and then pour hot 
 water into all these utensils, letting them stand to soak while 
 you are doing the other things. Afterwards, wash them out 
 well with fresh hot water and the dish-cloth ; rinse them with 
 cold water, and wipe the inside perfectly dry with a clean towel, 
 which, if they have been properly done, will not be soiled during 
 the process. The outside ,of each should also be washed and 
 wiped. The bars of the gridiron should first be well scraped, 
 then wiped with a dish-cloth dipped in hot water ; afterwards 
 with cold water, and then wiped dry. 
 
 PURIFYING SLOP-BUCKETS, JARS, &c.— To remove 
 any peculiar or unpleasant smell from slop-buckets, jars, or 
 other utensils, scald them with strong hot lye, filling them up 
 to the top, and letting the lye remain in the vessel till cold. 
 Repeat the scalding with lye, if necessary. Then fill them up 
 with cold water, let them stand all day in the open air, and 
 then wash them clean and wipe them dry. 
 
 Or you may put the vessel half full of wood-ashes, and fill 
 it up with boiling water. Let it stand till cold; then throw 
 out the ashes, and repeat the process with fresh ashes and hot 
 water, washing it*clean afterwards. 
 
 After this process, if the vessel is of stone-ware, earthen, or 
 china, turn it on its side and expose it a while to the hot sim. 
 
FURNITURE, ETC. 225 
 
 If it is of wood or tin, fill it with cold water, and stand it all 
 day in the air. 
 
 The best and most durable buckets are those of tin, painted 
 white on the inside, and green (or any other colour) outside. 
 All tin buckets should helve covers. " 
 
 TO REMOVE THE TASTE OF ROSIN FROM NEW 
 TIN. — Take a hot live coal from a wood fire, or a piece of 
 burning charcoal. Put the coal into the tin vessel, and shake 
 it about a while. Repeat this, (if necessary,) with a fresh coal 
 each time. Then wash out the vessel with warm water. 
 
 Or boil in the tin some pot-ash melted in water. Afterwards 
 wash out the vessel, and boil plain water in it. 
 
 TO REMOVE THE TASTE OF NEW WOOD.— A new 
 
 keg, churn, bucket, or other wooden vessel will generally com- 
 municate a disagreeable taste to any thing that is put into it, 
 particularly if of cedar. To prevent this inconvenience, first 
 scald the vessel well with boiling w^ater, letting the water 
 remain in it till cold. Then dissolve some pearl-ash or pot-ash 
 in luke-warm water, adding a little bit of lime to it, and wash 
 the inside of the vessel well with this solution. Repeat it, if 
 necessary. Afterwards scald it well with plain hot water, and 
 nnse it with cold before you use it. 
 
 If you cannot conveniently obtain pot-ash or pearl-ash, you 
 may season a new wooden vessel by scalding it repeatedly 
 with hot lye, and afterwards with boiling water ; but this 
 method, though frequently successful, is less certain than thf> 
 former. 
 
 Utensils of oak are far preferable to those of cedar. 
 
 Wooden vessels should never be allowed to stand out of 
 doors, unless they are full. If empty, the sun and air will 
 
226 THEIIOUSEBOOK. 
 
 Bhrink the staves, open the seams, and loosen the hoops and 
 bottoms, so that they will leak when used. 
 
 TO SWEETEN AN OLD CASK.— Having first scalded 
 it well with boiling water, (letting ihe water stand in it till 
 cold,) fill it with cold water, and throw in a large quantity of 
 live coals from a wood fire, leaving the cask uncovered. By 
 repeating this, the cask may be made perfectly sweet, provided 
 that it has at no time contained fish. A fish-barrel can never 
 be used for any other purpose, as it is impossible to expel the 
 taste and smell of the fish. 
 
 Scalding an old cask repeatedly in strong lye, and then with 
 clear water, will generally sweeten it. So will boiling water 
 in which pot-ash and lime have been dissolved. 
 
 Second-hand casks or kegs can frequently be purchased at a 
 grocery or liquor store ; and if they have contained notliing 
 that can give them a disagreeable taste, and are tight and in 
 good order, they are preferable, for many purposes, to those that 
 are new. 
 
 Another way to sweeten a cask, is to melt some brim- 
 stone, and dip into it a piece of coarse linen cloth. When 
 cold, take a slip of the brimstone cloth about an inch broad, 
 and five or six inches long, and having set fire to one end, put 
 it in at the bung-hole ; fastening the other end under the bung, 
 which must be driven in tight. The head of the cask must be 
 on, that all the vapour of the sulphur may continue inside. 
 Let it remain a few hours — ^then open the cask, and expose it 
 t(7 the air. 
 
"Z^lf 
 
 THE KITCHEN. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 As it is a self-evident truth that much of the comfort of a 
 family depends on the kitchen, it is of great importance that 
 the kitchen itself should be comfortable, and well supplied 
 with every thing that is necessary for enabling the domestics 
 to perform their work properly and expeditiously. Few good 
 servants (cooks particularly) are satisfied to remain long in a 
 place where they are denied these advantages. There are 
 unfortunately too many houses where (while much expense is 
 lavished on the drawing-rooms or parlours) the kitchen is bare 
 and comfortless in its aspect, and scantily supplied with the 
 utensils indispensable to the efficient execution of its business. 
 At the same time, a good housekeeper will endeavour to 
 impress on her domestics the necessity of taking care of all the 
 articles provided for the convenient performance of their work, 
 by keeping them clean, unbroken, and in their respective places. 
 Unless she is blest with excellent servants, she will find 
 herself unable to depend upon them, in this or in any other part 
 of their duty, without frequent personal inspection from herself. 
 Few nouses can go on well unless the mistress or her repre 
 sentative visits the kitchen at least once every day, and that 
 not always at the same hour. ^ 
 
 We recommend that ladies going to house-keejing, should 
 begin by first visiting the ironmongers, tinners, pottery-shops, 
 basket-makers, biush-makers, and the stores where wooden 
 ware is sold. So as to secure an ample supply of these arti- 
 
228 THE HOltE BOOK. 
 
 cles SO indispensable to comfort and convenience, before they 
 proceed to buying carpets, curtains, mirrors, mahogany furni- 
 ture, fine china, &c. If they expect to retain good servants, 
 and to have their work well done, they must allow a liberal 
 supply of all things necessary for doing it. 
 
 KITCHEN FURNITURE.— In furnishing a kitchen, we 
 do not recommend that the floor be covered with a woollen 
 carpet, whether woven of yarn or of strips of cloth. The grease 
 that such a carpet cannot fail to imbibe in a place where cook- 
 ing is done, is seldom attended to immediately, and perhaps 
 not at all : and its stickiness collects and retains the dust. The 
 consequence is, that the carpet (besides looking very dirty) 
 soon acquires a disgusting and unwholesome smell, which 
 pervades the atmosphere of the whole apartment. As it is far 
 more difficult to sweep than a smooth floor, it is in all probabi- 
 lity neither swept so often nor so thoroughly as cleanliness 
 requires ; and (produced by its heat, grease, and dirt) cock- 
 roaches not unfrequently accumulate round the edges and 
 corners of a kitchen carpet. Also, all kitchen floors should be 
 washed at least once a week in winter, and twice a week in 
 summer. The best covering for a kitchen (as we have said 
 before) is a coarse, thick, unfigured oil-cloth, painted all over 
 of one colour, (for instance, dark red, blue, or brown,) and made 
 to fit exactly. This is a carpet that has the advantages of being 
 cool in summer and warm and dry in winter ; as it effectually 
 covers the cracks of the floor, and excludes all dampness : and 
 it requires no scrubbing ; nothing more being necessary than 
 to wash it. oflf with cold water and a cloth. As a substitute for 
 an oil-cloth, the floor maybe painted all over with several coats 
 of common paint; yellow ochre being the cheapest, but slate 
 colour the best. If the floor is used ioi soon after painting, the 
 
KITGJIEN FURNITURE. 229 
 
 aint (not being sufficiently hardened and incorporated with the 
 surface of the wood) will rub or scale oft'. It is also well to 
 paint the kitchen stairs and passage. We do not advise oil- 
 cloth for any stair-case, as its being somewhat slippery may 
 cause persons to fall down, and not only hurt themselves, but 
 break Avhat they are carrying. On a level surface, however, 
 there is no danger of slipping on an oil-cloth. 
 
 There should be a large kitchen tahle, chiefl}^ for the use of 
 the cook ; and a smaller one for the domestics to sit round of 
 an evening. If you have an ironing-board in the kitchen, it is 
 best to have it fastened against the wall, (under the windows,) 
 to be raised and let down with hinges, and, when wanted for 
 use, supported by bracket-legs that can be drawn out from 
 underneath. These are very convenient ; as, when not in use, 
 they occupy little or no space. We have seen excellent 
 kitchen settles, large enough to seat four persons, and having 
 the appearance of a high-backed settee. The back can, when 
 necessary, be extended outwards, so as to form an ironing-table ; 
 and under the seat are drawers to contain the ironing-blanket, &c. 
 
 If you have your ironing done in the kitchen, it will be well 
 on ironing days (particularly in winter, when the sashes are 
 closed) to avoid having any thing cooked that causes a power- 
 ful smell. Also, to have no coffee roasted or batter cakes baked 
 on that morning. The clean clothes will become so saturated 
 with the odour of these things, that they will retain.it even after 
 being put away in the drawers. A boiled dinner is every way 
 most convenient for ironing days* 
 
 There should be, in a well furnished kitchen, half a dozen 
 common chairs, two low ones, and two or three wooden stools 
 or crickets. A cheap rocking-chair would no doubt be consi- 
 dered a great comfort for the cook to rest in, after she has done 
 
 her work. 
 
 20 
 
230 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 A cheap and convenient kitchen foot-stool may be made, by 
 laying together four bricks, (two at the bottom, and two at the 
 top,) and keeping them firm, by fastening tightly round tliem 
 some strong tape or listing. Then cover the whole block of 
 bricks, by sewing on it some coarse tow linen, and afterwards 
 put on the top a thicker layer of shavings, straw, or southern 
 moss, pressed down hard, like the stuffing of a pincushion. 
 Then sew over the whole an outer covering of coarse carpeting. 
 When completed, it will be a substantial and useful footstool, 
 not easily overset. 
 
 We do not recommend a looking-glass, as it is a temptation 
 for the domestics to comb or arrange their hair in the kitchen. 
 In houses w^here there is a kitchen looking-glass, hairs are fre- 
 quently found in the dishes that come to table. All the comb- 
 ing and dressing of the servants ought to be done in their own 
 sleeping-rooms ; and it is best to give them no facilities of per- 
 forming this business in any other part of the house. 
 
 Listing the kitchen doors will produce much increase of 
 comfort in winter. 
 
 A kitchen with white-washed walls will look far more clean 
 and light than if coloured with yellow-ochre. The windows 
 (if in a cellar kitchen) should be secured on the outside with 
 wire nettings, to prevent the entrance of rats from without. 
 If the kitchen is built back of the house, it is well to have 
 deep window curtains of domestic muslin, to prevent 
 curious persons from looking in. On the inside of the door 
 have, for general use, a wooden roller, with a coarse towel of 
 crash or tow linen about three yards long, and sewed together 
 at the ends. The roller should be taken down every morning 
 and replenished with a clean towel. 
 
 On a broad bench near the sink, keep one or two block tin 
 basins, and a little tin soap-cup, to be convenient for washing 
 
KITCHEN FURNITURE. 231 
 
 hands; a common-sized coarse towel hanging on a peg 
 above. 
 
 Let the sink be kept extremely clean ; and care should be 
 taken that nothing goes down it that may cause any stoppage. 
 Over it have nails on wliich to hangf the dish-cloths, &c. All 
 water in which vegetables have been washed or boiled, should 
 be thrown out at once; as, if allowed to stand, it will soon smell 
 disagreeably ; cabbage in particular. 
 
 It is well to keep a large boiler always on the kitchen fire, 
 for the convenience of having hot water whenever it may be 
 wanted. It should be furnished with a close cover, and with 
 a cock for drawing off the water. This boiler should be used 
 for water only, kept very clean, and washed and wiped out 
 every morning. When water is taken out for use, let the boiler 
 be replenished with more, so as to keep it always well filled. 
 
 A hearth-brush (to hang on a nail convenient to the fire-place) 
 should be allowed in every kitchen. Independent of its slo- 
 venly and uncomfortable appearance, a littered, ashy hearth will 
 communicate a portion of its dirt and ashes to whatever is 
 placed upon it. Nevertheless, the hearth should not be swept 
 when any uncovered cooking utensils are standing there. 
 
 Neither should the kitchen floor be swept while dinner is 
 preparing ; or, in short, when any eatables are about it. The 
 best time for sweeping and dusting the'kitchen is early in the 
 morning, immediately after the fire has been made ; (that, of 
 course, being always the first thing done, as soon as the win- 
 dows are opened ;) but if the breakfast hour is very early, the 
 kitchen sweeping, &c., may be deferred till after the breakfast 
 utensils are washed and put away ; and it should be brushed 
 up again in the afternoon, when the dish-washing is completed. 
 
 Do not clean candlesticks while the breakfast is about the 
 fire, lest some of the grease should fall into the dishes. 
 
833 THE HOUSE SOOK. 
 
 If you burn wood, you must have a bellows for the kitchen. 
 
 The duties of the domestics (particularly those of the cook) 
 cannot be regularly performed without a kitchen clock. It is 
 well, before you make a final purchase of such an article, to 
 take it a month on trial ; for if it does not keep time correctly, 
 and if it is continually getting out of order, it will not be worth 
 having, and cannot but prove a dear bargain, however low the 
 original cost. Of wooden clocks, many are excellent ; others 
 are complete frauds. In some families they have a kitchen 
 watch. A clock is better ; for a watch is liable to accidents 
 from falling : is frequently broken or put out of order by the 
 meddling of servant boys, (if you have such;) and also it can 
 be stolen and carried away very conveniently. 
 
 We know an instance of a wooden clock, made in Connecti- 
 cut, that seemed to go very well, except that it always stopped 
 in nine hours after being wound up. On examination by the 
 gentleman who had purchased it for his kitchen, it was found 
 that a piece of shaving had accidentally lodged behind one of 
 the wheels, probably in putting the clock together when finished. 
 The shaving was removed, and the clock turned out an excel- 
 lent one. 
 
 A marble table for making paste soon defrays its cost by 
 what it saves in the expense of obtaining pastry from the con- 
 fectioner's. Paste that is tough and heavy is unfit to be eaten ; 
 and without a marble table, or some extraordinary conveniences 
 for coolness, it is difficult to make it light in warm weather. 
 Also, whenever butter is made, a marble table is of great 
 advantage for working, pressing, and dividing it after it comes 
 from the churn. The cost of a new kitchen table with a marble 
 top, is from twelve to fifteen dollars in Philadelphia. An old 
 marble hearth, that has been taken up to be replaced by a 
 now one, will make a very good top for a pastry table. 
 
KITCHEN UTENSILS. 233 
 
 Where the extent of the house will allow it, there is great 
 Advantage in having a room in the lower part fitted up purposely 
 for making pastry, cakes, sweetmeats, and other nice articles 
 of like description. 
 
 A marble mortar is the best for all purposes connected with 
 cooking; being cool, lasting, easily kept clean, and incapable 
 of imbibing any part of the substances pounded in it. The 
 next best is a mortar of lignum vitaj, a wood that is very hard 
 and durable. Mortars of white earthen composition-ware are 
 easilybroken, and only fit for little things that are to be rubbed 
 with the pestle rather than pounded. The common wooden 
 mortara absorb much of the things that are pulverized in them, 
 and are apt to communicate the taste of one article to another. 
 Iron mortars lined with tin are cheap and very good. As soon 
 as the tinning of the inside begins to wear off, it must irame- 
 diiately be renewed at a tinner's ; otherwise every thing pounded 
 in the mortar will turn black. 
 
 •KITCHEN CROCKERY.— Brown earthen pans, both deep 
 and shallow, and of diflerent sizes, are articles of essential use 
 in all kitchens. Eggs should always be beaten in a shallow 
 earthen pan, and butter and sugar in a deep one. Tin pans are 
 inconvenient for these purposes, as the coldness of the metal 
 prevents the things from becoming light. You will want large, 
 tall earthen crocks for holding various articles of provision ; 
 ' each crock should have a cover: also coarse brown jugs, bowls, 
 and dishes, to save better ones. Of white crockery, or common 
 [[ueensware, you will require plates, dishes, and pitchers foi 
 the use of the kitchen ; and probably pudding moulds and 
 blanc-mange moulds : also cups, saucers, salt-cellar, pepper- 
 box, &c., for the table of the domestics, and a few common 
 
 glass tumblers. 
 
 20* 
 
234 THE HOUSE book. 
 
 Stone-ware also will be wanted for many purposes. It is 
 exceedingly strong-, and there are few things that do not keep 
 well in it. It is best, in buying stone jars, pots, and boxes, to 
 get those that have handles and lids ; covers of the same ware 
 beinar far better than corks. In consequence of the thickness 
 of the ware, cold water will keep cool longer, and not water 
 will keep warm longer, in a stone jug than in any other vessel. 
 Its coolness may be increased in summer by wrapping round 
 it a thick wet cloth, fastened securely. 
 
 IRON WARE. — For an open fire-place you must have a 
 crane and pot-hooks ; and you will require a nest of pots of 
 different sizes, and a long iron fork to lift things out of them ; 
 large and small gridirons; a frying-pan; one or two Dutch 
 ovens, or iron bake-pans, as they are sometimes called; trivets; 
 a skillet, or what is termed a spider, standing on legs ;" a 
 waffle-iron; two griddles, if. your family is large, as warm 
 cakes come in but very slowly when there is but one griddle to 
 bake them on ; square iron baking-pans, for bread" and other 
 purposes; ladles; a perforated skimmer; iron skewers; a 
 toasting-iron to set before the fire ; a coffee-roaster ; a large 
 tea-kettle, (which should be well tinned inside,) with a falling 
 handle, that, if necessary, it may be boiled in a stove. Kettles 
 fox preserving and pickling should be of iron, lined with porce- 
 lain, or enamel, as it is sometimes called : those of brass or 
 bell-metal ought never to be used for this purpose, as the action* 
 of acids on them is poisonous, and has produced the most dele- 
 terious and even fatal effects. Indeed, utensils lined with 
 porcelain may be used to great advantage in every sort of 
 stewing or boiling. Those of German manufacture are the 
 best. Care must be taken not to have too fierce a fire in usinfr 
 porcelain-lined vessels, or the lining will crack and scale oft'; 
 
KITCHEN UTENSILS. 235 
 
 iut with proper attention they will last many years, and arc 
 more wholesome and more easily kept clean than any other 
 cooking utensils. It is well to have small skillets and sauce- 
 pans of porcelain. There are also large kettles of this descrip- 
 tion for boiling hams, and others for fish. 
 
 If copper vessels are used in a kitchen, they should be wel 
 tinned on the inside ; and they will require new tinning at least 
 once a year, or still more frequently if the tin appears to be ia 
 the least wearing off. 
 
 Portable furnaces (to be heated with charcoal) are better of 
 iron than of clay, as they will last always, and are not liable 
 to crack or get out of order. With these you may stew and 
 boil, and make sweetmeats out in the yard. If used in the 
 kitchen, a door or window must be kept open all the time, or 
 the vapour of the charcoal will be suffocating. 
 
 Coffee-mills that are made to fasten against the wall are far 
 more convenient than those that must be held on the lap. 
 There should be a mill purposely for grinding spices, &c.; as, 
 if the same mill is used for both, the coffee will taste of spic^ 
 and the spice of coffee. Spice should be ground a little at a 
 time, accordingly as it is wanted. It is well to have a pepper- 
 mill also. 
 
 You will want some strong, stout knives and forks ; a kitchen 
 cleaver for cutting through the bone of meat ; a chopper for 
 mincing ; a steel for sharpening knives ; besides a whetstone, 
 and a claw-hammer for driving and extracting nails. A box 
 containing nails of different sizes, and a ball of twine, should 
 be provided for every* kitchen. A pair of sugar-nippers are 
 indispensable, for breaking small the loaf-sugar, after it has 
 •>een cracked with a stout knife and a mallet or hammer. It 
 should then be kept in a closely covered tin or wooden box 
 There should be a box also for brown suaar. 
 
236 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 Iron spoons for the kitchen are much belter than those jf 
 pewter, as they neither bend nor break. Strips of leather, nailed 
 along the edge of the dresser-shelves, are very convenient recep- 
 tacles for spoons or similar articles that are in constant use. 
 
 TIN WARE. — Of tins for preparing cookery you may have 
 d3ep round pans of different sizes; large and small patty-pans 
 for shells or empty paste ; pie-dishes of block tin vv^ith broad 
 rims ; (the pastry to be removed from these dishes when cool, and 
 transferred to china ;) cake-pans, some square and shalloAv, and 
 some round and deep. For large thick cakes it is best to get 
 pans with straight or perpendicular sides, as those that slam, 
 inward (narrowing towards the bottom) are very inconvenient 
 for a cake that is to be iced. Also, large cake-pans are best 
 with a hollow tube in the centre, to admit the heat into the 
 middle of the cake, that it may bake evenly all through. Have 
 likewise two or three dozen small round or oval tins, for little 
 cakes ; also a dozen muffin rings. You will want a covered 
 tin vessel for keeping lard ; a butter-kettle, and a similar tin 
 kettle for berries or small fruit ; a small block tin tea-kettle for 
 small purposes, and a little block tin sauce-pan. A double 
 block tin kettle, for stewing with all the water outside, is a 
 useful contrivance. It consists simply of an inner kettle, about 
 three or four inches each w.ay smaller and less deep than the 
 Duter one, inside of which it is suspended by means of two 
 small iron rings just below the rim of the smallest kettle, and 
 tied with twine to two corresponding rings placed on the inside 
 of the large kettle, about two or threg inches below the top. 
 Both kettles have close lids, and falling handles over them. 
 They are excellent for boiling puddings or custards ; stewing 
 apples and other fruit ; making beef tea, &c. ; and are on the 
 same principle as the utensil called a Bain Marie, so much 
 
KITCHEN UTENSILS. 237 
 
 employed in French cooking. The inner and outer kettles may 
 De used separately. 
 
 For roasting-, there is nothing better than what is commonly 
 but absurdly called a tin kitchen. It may be well to have two 
 of them, one large, and one small. 
 
 You will want a cullender ; a fish-kettle; an eg-g-boiler; an 
 egg-slice ; a pepper-box ; a dredging-box ; large and small 
 graters. For spice-boxes, it is best to keep the different sorts 
 of spice in small, separate, painted tin boxes, each with a tight 
 fitting lid, and a handle to hang it by, to nails driven along the 
 edge of a dresser-shelf; each box to have the name of the spice 
 (as cinnamon, mace, nutmegs, cloves) painted on the side. 
 These vi^ill be found more convenient than the large spice boxes, 
 in which, notwithstanding the divisions, the spices are very 
 apt to get mixed. Do not buy your spice ready ground, 
 as when powdered, it loses its strength by keeping. You 
 should by all naeans have a tin apple-corer ; a most useful little 
 instrument, to be struck into the stem end or top of the apple, 
 and turned round and round like a cork-screw; it will, in one 
 minute, thrust out the core through the bottom, as smoothly 
 and nicely as possible. A tin apple-roaster, to set before the 
 fire, is also a useful thing. 
 
 You will want a tin vessel, large enough to contain three or 
 four gallons of lamp oil, and also large and small oil-cans for 
 daily use; a lantern; broad-bottomed kitchen candlesticks oi 
 lamps ; a candle-box ; a large and a small funnel for pouring 
 liquids ; a sugar scoop, if you keep sugar in a barrel ; and a 
 flour sc^.op, for the flour barrel. A set of tin mugs, (with Jipa 
 or spouts,) to be used as measures, will be found very conve- 
 nient; they may be six in number; a gallon; a two quart 
 measure; one quart; a pint; half a pint; a jill; and half a 
 jill. Have also a pair of scales with a set of weights. It ib 
 
238 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 well to have the scales perraanently hung to *small projecting 
 bar or l)eam fixed in a convenient place ; for instance, at the 
 end of the kitchen dresser, or on one of the store-closet shelves ; 
 otherwise there will be much trouble, from the chains of the 
 scales becoming twisted or unlinked, by frequently lifting them 
 in and out of the scale-box. Without measures and scales, 
 there can be little or no accuracy in the nicer branches of 
 cookery ; particularly in making pastry, cakes, or sweetmeats.' 
 
 Tin buckets, painted outside, are far better and more lasting 
 than those of wood. There should be a tin dipper or ladle for 
 the water. 
 
 Kitchen candlesticks or lamps are best of strong block tin, 
 and should have broad bottoms. 
 
 WOODEN WARE— Of this, you will want tubs; buckets; 
 large bowls or wooden pans for flour; sieves, large and small ; 
 a beetle for mashing potatoes, turnips, &c. ; a meat beetle, 
 for pounding steaks and chops to make them tender; two 
 nickory egg-beaters, large and small ; a spaddle or round short 
 hickory stick, flattened at one end, for stirring butter and sugar; 
 a paste-board, for making pies ; a coffee-stick ; a mush-stick ; 
 a clothes-stick ; and wooden spoons and ladles. 
 
 If you make bread for a large family, a kneading trough 
 will be of essential convenience ; and when not otherwise in 
 use, it can form a table, by covering it with the lid. 
 
 Flour buckets with lids are excellent for holding sifted flour. 
 Every sort of meal would keep better, if removed at once from 
 the barrel, (where it is always tightly packed,) sifted through 
 a sieve, and distributed in covered buckets. This is a very 
 common practice in the southern states, where the warmth of 
 the climate frequently causes flour to spoil when this precau- 
 tion is omjtted. If you do keep your flour in a barrel, let it be 
 
KITCHEN U T E N S I L S. 239 
 
 constantly covered with a tight lid. Suet can be kept perfectly 
 good for a week, by burying it in the flour barrel. 
 
 Your salt-boxes and sugar-boxes should be of wood whh 
 close covers. 
 
 A large close-covered wooden box is very convenient for 
 softening sweet cake that is not quite fresh. Shut up the cake 
 closely in the box, and about an hour before tea, set it in front 
 of the fire, (not so near as to scorch the wood,) and turn it 
 round occasionally. This will soften the cake, and make it 
 seem fresh. If the cake is large, slice it before you put it into 
 the box. 
 
 BASKET-WARE.— There should be a large market basket 
 and a smaller one, and these should be kept very clean, wiping 
 them always after using, and frequently washing them out 
 with a wet cloth, and then putting them to dry. They will 
 require occasionally scrubbing with a hand-brush, soap, and 
 warm water, to get off the grease that the marketing will leave 
 in them. Fish should be carried home from market in the 
 hand, and not laid in the basket, or they w'ill communicate a 
 taste and smell to the other provisions. If you use a basket 
 for keeping the bread, let it be one with a cover, and see that 
 the bread rt^hen put away in it, is always closely wrapped in a 
 clean thick towel. 
 
 Small hand-baskets are useful for eggs, and many other 
 articles. 
 
 It is well to have a bottle-basket with sockets, so that bot- 
 tles may be carried in it standing upright, and without any 
 danger of breaking. 
 
 Demijohns (large bottles, covered with basket-work) are 
 extremely useful in a kitchen or store-room, for holding vinegar, 
 rno.asscs, &c. ; being less liable to accidents, than earthen, ot 
 
2<10 THE H0US1-: book. 
 
 even stone jugs. Small demijohns, holding from a gallon to 
 two gallons, are very convenient. 
 
 For laundrj^-work you should have one or more large clothes- 
 baskets, which should not be used for any other purpose. A 
 basket with a lid or cover is useful for small muslins, <fec., 
 after they are ironed, to preserve them from injury by dust or 
 damp. 
 
 An old champagne basket, kept in a kitchen closet, will be 
 found a good receptacle for dusters and sundry other things. 
 
 There should be a box or basket to contain all the things 
 necessary for cleaning silver and other metal ; another for the 
 articles used in cleaning mahogany furniture ; one for the lamp 
 things, and one for those employed in cleaning knives, &c. 
 Also a receptacle for the shoe-cleaning apparatus. It is well 
 to keep in a box or a drawer nails of different "sizes, a claw- 
 hammer, a small sawja gimlet, a screw-driver, and a ball of twine. 
 
 KITCHEN CLOTHS.— Table cloths for the kitchen are 
 generally made of unbleached cotton diaper ; but coarse linen 
 or huckaback will eventually be found cheapest, as it wdll last 
 much longer. There should be a sufficient number of kitchen 
 towels of different sorts to suit different purposes. For instance, 
 there may be half a dozen rolling towels of crash, or coarse 
 thick linen ; a dozen smaller towels of the same quality, each 
 being a yard in length j and a dozen towels of common thin 
 linen diaper, for wiping glasses, china, &c. ' 
 
 Pudding-cloths are best when of very thick linen, (for in- 
 stance, Russia sheeting,) and made square. Dumpling-cloths 
 the same, but smaller. Jelly bags are generally of white 
 flannel ; when quite new, they must be well washed before 
 usmg, to get out all the grease of the wool. They are made 
 of a square of flannel, doubled like a half handkerchief, so as 
 
KITCHEN UTENSILS. 241 
 
 to De wide at ihe top and po'nted at the bottom ; the side being 
 sewed up in a strong^ seam, and the top or mouth hemmed, 
 with three tape loops sewed to it, by which, when in use, it is 
 suspended to the legs of a table, or to a wooden frame made 
 for the purpose. 
 
 Scouring- flannels or rubbers should be strong and coarse. 
 If made on purpose, it is well to hem them slightly all round, 
 to prevent their ravelling. Do the same with new dusters, 
 which are better of cotton than of linen, being softer. 
 
 The cloths used in scrubbing the floor should be of thick tow 
 linen or strong crash, and very large. Let them also be 
 hemmed. The dish-cloths and pot-cloths may be less thick, 
 but also of brown linen. Paint-cloths are best of soft old linen ; 
 if new, they are apt to scratch the paint. Old towels, sheets, 
 &c., come well into use as kitchen cloths. When dirty, let 
 them be washed, and not thrown away, as of no farther account. 
 
 All the above-mentioned articles should be kept clean and 
 taken care of, always putting them away in their proper places. 
 The clean towels, &c., may be deposited in the dresser-drawers. 
 
 The cloths appropriated to the slop-buckets, &c., had best 
 be of a different colour and material from the others, that they 
 may be easily distinguished, and not used for any other 
 purposes. 
 
 Sponges are of great use in various sorts of cleaning. They 
 should in all houses be provided for the purpose. To keep 
 them soft and white, wash them in warm water with a little 
 tartaric acid in it, and then rmse them- in cold water. Take 
 care not to put in too much tartaric acid, as, if used to excess 
 t will corrode the sponge. Choose sponges that are not gritty. 
 
 BRUSHES, &c. — ^In most kitchens there is a large closet 
 for the purpose of containing articles necessary for doing the 
 
 21 
 
242 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 work ; and in this closet nothing eatable should be kept. It is 
 well to have shelves in one part of it, and hooks or pegs in 
 another. Of hair sweeping-brushes you will •«■ ant two ; one 
 for the lower part of the house, and one for the upper ; besides 
 another with a very long handle, for windows, cornices, &c. 
 Corn or whisk-brooms will be necessary, and a birch-broom 
 may also be useful for sweeping the cellar, yard, &c. Whisk- 
 brooms, whether for sweeping floors or for brushing clothes, 
 will last much longer, and can be used more effectively, if the 
 twigs are prevented from sprawling out or spreading apart, by 
 covering them halfway down with a sort of petticoat made of 
 stout brown linen, or coarse, strong cotton. It must be fastened 
 tightly round the bottom of the handle, where the twig or broom 
 part commences, extending downwards about halfway, and 
 must -fit tightly, so as to keep the twigs close and compact. 
 We have seen- these covers very nicely made, with a hem at 
 the bottom, and a case and drawing-string of tape at the top, 
 so as to slip on to the whisk, and be tied round ; having the 
 advantage of being taken off and washed when dirty. A tole- 
 rable cover may be made for a broom by slipping over it part 
 of the leg of an old woollen stocking, securing it round the 
 bottom of the handle with a string. 
 
 Short-handled brushes will be wanted for the stairs, for 
 crushing bedsteads, for removing the dust from between the 
 slats of Venetian shutters, and for many other purposes. All 
 brooms and brushes used for sweeping will last much longer 
 if, when not in use, they are hung up by a loop of twine or 
 tape, passed through a hole drilled for the purpose near the top 
 of tne handle. 
 
 Also, before they are put away, let all the bits of flue, clip- 
 pings, threads, &c., be picked off them. 
 
 "Vou will, of course, want scrubbing-brushes with and with- 
 
KITCHEN UTENSILS. 243 
 
 out handles ; white-wash brushes ; stove-brushes ; shoe-brushes, 
 and brushes for cleaning the various articles of furniture,. in- 
 cluding silver. These should be kept in suitable places, 
 and always washed before they are put away. One or more 
 paint-brushes will be found very convenient in every house. 
 After using, they should be soaked in spirits of turpentine to 
 get off the paint, and then washed in warm soap-suds. 
 
 Leathers for cleaning metal are indispensable. They will 
 last longer, and be taken better care of, if of large size and of 
 regular shape. They should be of buckskin ; or soft sheepskin, 
 such as passes for the skin of the chamois goat, and is called 
 shammy leather. These leathers can easily be washed with 
 soap and water ; and this ought always to be done when they 
 require it. 
 
 REFRIGERATORS. — These are large wooden boxes, 
 standing on feet, and lined with tin or zinc, being generally 
 interlined with charcoal, and having at the bottom a receptacle 
 for ice, and a drain to carry off the water that drips from it as 
 it melts ; a vessel being always set underneath to catch the 
 droppings. They are divided into compartments for the recep- 
 tion of different articles of provisions, and furnished with movo 
 ble shelves or slats on which to set the things. Duringr tlie 
 warm season they must be every day replenished with fresh 
 ice, wrapped in a piece of blanket to prevent its melting too 
 fast. In a refrigerator, articles of provision may be kept from 
 spoiling with much more certainty than when placed in a cellar 
 or vault. They are conveniences which no family should be 
 without. It is well to have two ; one for meat, &c., and the 
 other exclusively for butter, cream, milk, and nice things made 
 from the productions of the dairy ; as these are all very apt to 
 imbibe a disagreeable taste if kept in the vicinity of provisions 
 
244 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 that are of a less delicate nature. We have «een in dinmg'- 
 rooms handsome mahogany refrigerators, for the purpose of 
 Keeping cool the wine and other liquors used for the table. 
 
 Refrigerators must be kept very clean, wiping them out 
 every day, and about once a week washing the inside thoroughly, 
 and exposing them a while to the air with the lid left open, f^ 
 refrigerator must on no account be kept in the kitchen, or in 
 any place where there is fire. It may stand in the pantry, or 
 in the kitchen entry. 
 
 SAFES. — A safe is a movable closet, standing on feet ; the 
 doors and sides being made of wire net, or of perforated tin. It 
 has shelves inside, and is used for keeping cold meat, pies, and 
 other articles left from the table. The safe should stand in the 
 pantry or in the kitchen entry; the. kitchen itself will be too 
 warm for it. They have the advantage of being inaccessible 
 to mice. If your house is infested with ants, it will be weil 
 not to place the safe near the wall, and to stand all its feet in 
 tin cups of salt and water. The safe should be scrubbed out 
 frequently, and then carried into the area or the yard, and 
 exposed a while to the fresh air, with its doors open. 
 
 In setting away cold meat, &c., always put a cover on the 
 dish. Pitchers used for milk and cream should have coders 
 belonging to them. They can be fitted with tin covers at a tin- 
 store ; which are better than any others, as there is no danger 
 of their breaking. Covered pitchers are also very convenient 
 for keeping water warm, and for herb teas, barley-water, gruel, 
 &c., in sick-rooms. 
 
 FILTERING JARS. — In places where river water is used 
 for drinking and cooking, a filtering jar is an article of great 
 convenience, rendering the water more wholesome as well as 
 
KITCHEN UTENSILS. 245 
 
 more agreeable, by depriving of its impurities. River water 
 (even that which is generally clear) always becomes more or 
 less turbid in rainy weather, or when the ice breaks up ; and it 
 is then in a very bad state for use. 
 
 Filtering jars may be had in all places where stone ware is 
 sold ; they should be kept in the cellar, and when the water is 
 drawn out, they should be replenished, so as to keep them full. 
 A very cheap and good contrivance for filtering, is to take a 
 large garden flower-pot, and lay in the bottom a piece of 
 sponge, so as to cover the hole. Upon this, put a few smooth 
 clean pebbles, to keep the sponge in its place, and fill up the 
 pot to within two or three inches of the brim, with a mixture 
 of one part of powdered charcoal, to two parts of fine sharp 
 sand. Then cover the top of the pot with a piece of clean 
 white flannel, tied tightly round the rim with a twine, but so 
 as to sink or sway down in the centre. Set the flower-pot into 
 a pan or tub, and pour the water into the flannel, letting it filter 
 through the charcoal, &c. ^ and by the time it has passed 
 through the sponge, and come out at the bottom, it will be 
 clear. 
 
 THE CELLAR.— If you are under the necessity of keep- 
 ino- articles of provision in a cellar, it should be partitioned off, 
 or separated by a wall from that in which the fuel, &c., i.-* 
 deposited. Great care is necessary in keeping the cellar clean, 
 and free from every thing that has a powerful smell. A barrel 
 of salt fish placed in the cellar will frequently pervade the 
 whole house with- its odour, and impart a fishy taste to every 
 article of food that may be kept there ; also by rendering the 
 air impure, it will cause them to spoil very soon. Milk or 
 butter kept in the same cellar with a fish-barrel, acquires a 
 very disagreeable taste, and is indeed unfit for use. In a town, 
 
 21* 
 
246 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 where salt-fish can always be purchased in small quanfi^ie'? for 
 immediate use, it is best to keep no fish-barrel at all ; as the 
 smell is generally more -or less diffused through the lower par* 
 of the house, and will be very perceptible to visiters, thougl 
 custom may prevent the family from noticing it. 
 
 If you keep a barrel for pig-slop, either in the cellar or is 
 the yard, see that it is emptied daily, and the contents carried 
 away; otherwise, it will, certainly cause a very oifensive and 
 unwholesome smell. In warm weather, the slop-barrel should 
 not be kept near the kitchen, but in an out-house, or in the most 
 remote part of the yard. If you have pigs of your own, keep 
 no slop-barrel at all, (particularly in summer,) but let the 
 refuse of the kitchen be thrown into an old tub or bucket, and 
 carried to them at once. 
 
 By carefully stopping all the holes and crevices, and by 
 keeping the windows of your cellar carefully closed, particu- 
 larly after sunset, you may prevent the ingj^ess of rats and mice 
 from the neighbouring houses. For this reason, the windows 
 
 DO ' 
 
 should be protected by close nettings of thick iron wire; as, if 
 there are only bars, these destructive animals can easily slip in 
 between. We have seen in a public street, and in broad day- 
 light, a rat going into a cellar through the iron bars of the 
 window. 
 
 Cabbages and other vegetables may be kept all winter in a 
 cellar, by burying them in earth or sand. 
 
 A cellar, like all other places belonging to a house, should 
 be kept clean ; for no impurity can be allowed to remain there, 
 without causing an offensive effluvia, and endangering the 
 health of the family. The floor, whether of clay or stone, will 
 require frequent sweeping with a coarse broom, and all the 
 contents of the cellar should be arranged in good order, and 
 
KITCHEN UTENSILS. 247 
 
 not allowed to stand about in the way of every one that enters 
 the place. 
 
 In a fuel cellar, the/e should be receptacles for the ashes, 
 and for the dust collected in sweeping the house. In most 
 cellars, there are cavities made for the purpose, and called the 
 ash -hole, and the dust-hole. Besides the coal and wood, here 
 are kept the charcoal barrels ; the cinder-sieve ; the coal- 
 scuttles, when not in immediate use ; the fire-pan, for carrying 
 live coals that are wanted for kindling ; the saw, and the wood 
 axe. Each of these things should of course have its appro 
 priate place. The business of knife-cleaning, and of boot- 
 cleaning, is sometimes performed in the cellar, if it is light 
 enough for such purposes. A cellar closet is a great conve- 
 nience, as many things can be kept there that are not exactly 
 proper for the kitchen closets. 
 
 HYDRANTS AND PUMPS— To prevent a hydrant in 
 the yard from freezing, cover it closely, as soon as the cold 
 weather sets in, with straw above and below, leaving nothing 
 exposed but the handle and the spout, and lay over the top 
 several folds of old carpet or coarse blanket. A hydrant will 
 be less likely to freeze, if care is taken, after drawing water 
 from it, always to turn the handle back, as far as it can possi- 
 bly go. This caution should be impressed on the servants. 
 
 If you have a pump, you may prevent its freezing, during 
 the night, by setting the handle as high as it will go. It is 
 well, afso, to cover the pump as much as possible with straw 
 and old carpet. In the north, we have ^en pumps screened 
 from the cold, by a roof or shed built over them. 
 
 If the hydrant or the pump should freeze, you may thaw it, 
 by pouring on a kettle full of boiling water, round the handle 
 and the spout. 
 
248 THE HOUSE BOOR. 
 
 'v. 
 
 In cities sufficiently south for fig-trees to grow in the open 
 air, they will thrive beautifully if in the immediate vicinity of 
 a garden hydrant. The finest fig-trees we ever saw in America, 
 were planted one on each side of a yard hydrant in the most 
 central part of Philadelphia. They grew to an unusual height, 
 produced a continual succession of figs, and their foliage 
 always remained green and luxuriant, till late in the autumn. 
 Grape-vines planted on the hydrant-side of the garden, will 
 generally produce finer fruit, and in greater abundance, than on 
 any of the other walls. 
 
 STORE-ROOMS. — It is a great convenience (in the country 
 parti(5ular]y) to have two store-rooms ; one of them not far 
 from the kitchen; the other in the vicinity of the dining-room. 
 In one, you can keep tea, coffee, chocolate, sugar, flour, rice, 
 soap, candles, &c. ; all which articles, there is great economy, 
 as well as convenience, in buying by the quantity, particularly 
 if the family is large. In this store-room should be kept scales, 
 weights, and measures ; the scales fixed permanently to a 
 beam 
 
 Smoked tongues, hams, and dried beef may be kept here, 
 sewed up in white-washed cloths, "and suspended on hooks to 
 the ceiling. Hanging shelves are very useful in a store-room 
 Great care should be taken to keep out rats, mice, and cock- 
 roaches. 
 
 The other store-room may be smaller, and appropriated to the 
 pickles, sweetmeats, cakes, &c., that may be used in the 
 family • also sweet^wines, cordials, syrups, and other articles 
 of like description Here may be kept the utensils for making 
 blanc-mange, ice-cream, and, confectionary of various de- 
 scriptions.- 
 
 It is well to have all the jars labelled with the names of the 
 
KITCHEN UTENSILS. 249 
 
 things contained in them, that wrong ones may not be opened 
 by mistake. Here should be kept a large spoon and a fork for 
 lifting out the pickles, and another spoon and fork for the 
 preserves. Also a towel, for wiping up any juice or vinegar 
 that may chance to drop. 
 
 This store-room must be well furnished with shelves. And 
 it is very convenient to have a small table in the centre, to set 
 lli.ngs on wiien ycu take them down. 
 
250 
 
 THE DINING-ROOM, &c. 
 
 If the dining-room is adjoining^ to the kitchen, much trouble 
 of opening and shutting- the door, and going out and in, may 
 be saved, by making in the partition between the two apart- 
 ments, a square window with two shutters, one on each side; 
 the shutter that opens into the dining-room to be painted or 
 papered to correspond with the wall, so that when closed, it 
 may be scarcely perceptible. On the kitchen side, the window 
 should have two very broad shelves, on which to set the dishes, 
 &c., that are handed in and out through it. 
 
 When the dining-room is up stairs, and immediately over 
 the kitchen, a dumb-wniter closet will be found a great conve- 
 nience. This is a long deep closet, made in the wall, and de- 
 scending from the dining-room to the kitchen, with a door into 
 each. Inside of this closet, is a tier of broad square shelves 
 one above another, and connected by a frame. This tier of 
 shelves is raised and lowered by means of a pulley and a 
 strong rope, with a loop or handle at each end. On these 
 shelves, the cook places the dishes, and they are drawn up by 
 the servant that waits on the table, and let down when done 
 with. Each shelf of this apparatus is surrounded by a rim or 
 ledge like a tray. A contrivance of this kind saves much time 
 and trouble in carrying the things up and down stairs, and 
 lessens the risk of breakage. 
 
 If there is no convenient pantry, a large closet is indispcn- 
 able to a dining-room. Two small side-boards, one in each 
 
THE PANTRY, ETC. 251 
 
 recess, occupy loss space than a large one standing out, and 
 are therefore preferable, unless the dining-room is very spacious 
 and expensively furnished, so that an elegant side-board may 
 be classed among its ornaments. 
 
 THE PANTRY. — The pantry is a small apartment, either 
 adjoining to the dining-room or very near it, in which it is very 
 convenient to wash the china and glasses, to arrange the cas- 
 tors, clean the silver, &c. It should be fitted up with shelves 
 for holding the glass and china, or, what is still better, with a 
 sort of dresser, havinjj closets above and drawers beneath. The 
 plate should either have a closet to itself, or be kept in drawers 
 lined with green baiise. We have seen a plate closet of iron, 
 let into the wall of a pantry, and opening by a sliding door, so 
 constructed as to be- imperceptible to strangers. In some fami- 
 lies all the plate is locked up every night in an iron chest, the 
 key being kept hj the master of the house. 
 
 In places wheio there is an abundance of water, (as in Phi- 
 ladelphia,) it is not unfrequent to have it brought by a pipe 
 into the pantry, not only for the convenience of washing the 
 articles contained there, but to afford a supply to all that part 
 of the house. Under the spout of the pantry water pipe, in a 
 handsome house, we have seen the sink or drain lined with 
 marble instead of lead or zinc. In wniter it is well to have the 
 pantry made comfortably warm by an iron drum or somethinji 
 of that sort. Here should be kept the knives, forks, crMmb- 
 cloth, table-cloths, napkins, waiters, trays, plate-warmer, dish- 
 mats, cork-screws, wine-coolers, and every thing necessary for 
 settinor the table. 
 
 THE CASTORS.— Attention should every day be given to 
 the caslors, to see that they are clean ^nd in proper order, and 
 
252 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 that there is no deficiency of any of the articles contained m 
 the cruets. It is a good rule to fill them up daily. The cay- 
 enne should be shaken and stirred up to the bottom every day, 
 as it is apt to get into solid masses; and the cover of the bottle 
 should be examined, to see if the holes are not clogged and 
 stopped up with the pepper, which in that case must be removed 
 by poking it out with a large pin or with the prong of a fork. 
 The vinegar cruet must also be inspected, to see that its con- 
 tents are not cloudy. Vinegar by long standing will collect a 
 mouldy sort of slime, commonly called the mother. It should 
 then be emptied out, and the bottle well washed. Much of the 
 vinegar now sold in the stores is adulterated with vitriol, tar- 
 taric acid, or some other ingredient, of which a small quantity 
 will give a strong degree of sourness, but at the same time 
 rendering the liquid so corrosive as to be unfit for use. We 
 have seen oysters that, from being pickled with this pernicious 
 vinegar, were eaten into holes by it before they were cold, all 
 of them dissolving by next day into imperceptible particles. 
 Pickles also are destroyed by it in the same manner ; and of 
 course its eflfects on the human system must be highly delete- 
 rious. It is safest to try a small quantity first, and if you find 
 it of the above description, send back what you have bought; 
 or at least do not, on any consideration, use it. We believe 
 that Underwood's best pickling vinegar may be safely depended 
 on. Families that live in the country will find it most conve- 
 nient to make their own vinegar. 
 
 Salad oil, when not fresh, acquires a very unpleasant taste. 
 VA'^hen this happens, it need not be thrown away after removing 
 it from the cruet, as it may be saved for the mixtures used in 
 cleaning furniture, &c. Do not mix much mustard at a time, 
 PS the fresher it is the better. Never leave the spoon in the 
 mustard after dinner, nor the salt-spoons in the salt, or they 
 
THE PANTRY, ETC. ^'^S 
 
 will spot and canker ; but take them out and wash them whri 
 you do the other spoons. Also, empty out the salt-cellars and 
 wipe them clean. When you fill them, smooth the salt very 
 nicely on the top. Salt must be kept perfectly dry, for if damp 
 it will be moist and discoloured. Use only the best; its cost 
 is not much, and thure is no real economy in buying salt of infe- 
 rior quality. 
 
 In some castors are bottles for powdered loaf-sugar; but the 
 most usual way of bringing this condiment to table is in a small 
 glass or silver bowl, with a perforated ladle for dipping it out 
 and sprinkling it on. After powdering, let it always be 
 
 sifted. 
 
 If the stopper of a cruet is lost or broken, it should at once 
 be replaced with a new one ; besides that, if left open, the con- 
 tents will spoil, a castor with defective bottles looks very badly. 
 
 A table large enough for fifteen or twenty persons will 
 require two castors. 
 
 There are castors purposely for anchovy, soy, catchup, and 
 other fish-sauces. They contain either four or six handsome 
 bottles, all labelled. We consider this a much nicer way of 
 bringing fish-sauces to table than the common one of introduc- 
 incr them in the coarse black bottles in. which they are put up. 
 
 TABLE-MATS.— A set of table-mats (of which the India 
 are the best) are indispensably necessary, to prevent the heat 
 of the dishes from leaving white marks on the table. The low- 
 priced mats of checkered straw wear out or break to pieces so 
 soon, that they are not worth buying. We have seen very good , 
 and durable substitutes for India mats, made of thick oil-cloth, 
 cut into an octagon shape and of different sizes, lined under- 
 neath with green baize or with stout woollen cloth, and bound 
 ound the edge with worsted ferret. The oil-cloth lor this 
 
 22 
 
254 THE HOUSE BOO K. 
 
 purpose looks best to be of only one colour ; for instance, 
 shaded green or shaded brown. 
 
 Little stands for tea-cups may be made in th*s manner. 
 
 KNIFE RESTS.— There should be a pair of these placed 
 at each end of the table, at the sides of the two principal dishes, 
 for the purpose of receiving the knife and fork when the carver 
 lays them down, instead of putting them into the dish. They 
 are sometimes of china, corresponding with the dinner set, and 
 very frequently of silver. 
 
 BUTTER KNIVES.— Beside each butter plate should be 
 placed a knife, as no person accustomed to genteel society will 
 help himself to butter with his own knife. There are knives 
 with silver blades made expressly for this purpose. They are 
 best with silver handles; as those of mother-of-pearl are very 
 liable to break, or come off. 
 
 FINGER GLASSES.— These are generally blue or green, 
 and are filled with wat^^r and set round the table, just before 
 the cloth is removed, for the company to dip their fingers in, 
 rubbing them with a slice of lemon or an orange leaf, that is 
 put into each glass for the purpose. Every ^lass is placed 
 on a folded doily. The disgusting European custom of taking 
 a mouthful or two of the water, and, after washing the mouth, 
 spitting it back again into the finger glass, has not become 
 fashionable in America. Neither is it usual in our country to 
 place tooth-picks on the table for the benefit of the company ; 
 most gentlemen preferring to pick their teeth and wash theii 
 mouths in private. 
 
THE PANiRY," ETC. 255 
 
 . TABLE-LINEN.— If the circumstances cf the family will 
 allow the expenditure, it is advisable always to get the table- 
 linen of the best quality ; as that which is fine and thick will 
 last much longer and look much better than if comparatively 
 coarse and thin. There is nothing of the sort superior to tlic 
 best double French damask ; it being not only fine and thick, 
 but. soft and glossy, like satin; and it looks as well after wash- 
 ing as before. The appearance of all table-linen is improved 
 by being mangled in a machine, instead of ironing. A table- 
 cloth ought to be considerably larger than the table, so as to 
 hanof down all round. 
 
 NAPKINS. — There are few genteel families w^ho are not in 
 the practice of using napkins at table, to spread on the lap 
 while eating, and for wiping the mouth and the fingers. The 
 best size is about three-quarters square. It is now more cus- 
 tomary to hem the napkins than to ravel them into a fringe. 
 If fringed, they must be afterwards whipped with a needle and 
 thread, to secure them from ravelling still farther. Napkins 
 with coloured borders look less genteel than those that are all 
 white. The fine French double damask are the best and hand- 
 somest, and will last twice as long as any others. For a dinner 
 party it is customary to place the napkins on the table, nicely 
 folded in squares or diamonds, of which there are a variety of 
 ingenious forms. But when the family dine without company, 
 or with only two or three guests, the napkins are usually folded 
 square, and then rolled up tightly and slipped into a ring of 
 silver, ivory, ebony, or box-wood. These rings are generally 
 numbered or lettered ; and care should be taken to place the 
 napkin of each person in his own ring. 
 
 All table-linen should be marked in full with the whole 
 name of the family. 
 
256 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 DOILIES. — These are small napkins intended for wiping 
 the fingers after eating fruit, and are placed round the table for 
 that purpose. They are very generally of coloured cotton, 
 with a border ; the colours are dark, that the stains may not be 
 conspicuous on them. Unless they are Avashed very frequently, 
 they acquire a rather unpleasant smell, and are not agreeable 
 to use. We think it best to have white ones, as they are much 
 nicer, and the stains can easily be removed from them. Doilies 
 are always fringed. 
 
 SETTING THE DINNER TABLE.— Before you begin 
 to set the table, see that every thing is ready and in good order; 
 so that, after you once commence, you may not have to quit for 
 the purpose of making something clean, or of remedying some 
 inconvenience. If in winter, first see that the fire is good, and 
 the hearth clean, and the plates set before it in the plate-warmer. 
 In summer, if there is to be wine, attend in proper time to put- 
 ting the bottles into the cooler, heaping round them pieces of 
 ice. Also have ready, in one or more small glass dishes oi 
 saucers, a sufficiency of bright clean ice, broken into small 
 bits, (with a dessert spoon in each dish,) for the purpose of 
 using while at table to cool the glasses of wine or water. 
 
 Cut the dinner bread into thick oblong pieces or blocks; as 
 it is not customary to slice bread, except for breakfast and tea ; 
 and take care to have enough in the bread-basket to, supply all 
 the persons at table with a second piece, if required. It is 
 extremely awkward to be obliged to replenish the bread-basket 
 in the midst of dinner, some of the company, perhaps, waiting 
 for it in the mean time. Every thing may be so arranged 
 before-hand that the waiter will not have occasion to leave the 
 room durmg the progress of the dinner. 
 
 First lay down the cramb-cloth ; and then, if there is a 
 
SETTING THE DINNER TABLE. 257 
 
 woollen cover on the dining-table, remove it before you put on 
 the linen cloth, which must be laid smoothly and evenly, so as 
 not to hang down more on one side than on another. Bring m 
 the things (as many at a time as you can) on your tray. Set 
 your plates round the table, one for every person, but place them 
 at the sides only, except those that are intended for the master 
 and mistress of the house, who of course occupy the two ends, 
 and will not be able to carve so conveniently if any one is 
 seated beside them. 
 
 It is always better to have too much space than too little ; 
 and it is therefore advisable to set a table rather too large for 
 the company, than one that is in the least too small. We have 
 seen a whole dinner party made uncomfortable all the time, 
 from being crowded at a table of insufficient size ; and in warm 
 weather, particularly, this is no trifling inconvenience. 
 
 Having set round the plates, lay a knife and fork in front of 
 each ; and if there is soup, a spoon; also setting a soup plate 
 on each of the flat ones. At each corner of the table lay two 
 spoons across, and put other spoons wherever dishes are to be 
 set. Have a salt-cellar at each corner, between the bowls of 
 the crossed spoons. In some houses it is customary to keep 
 the castors on the side-board, to be handed by the waiter as 
 they- may be required. This we think inconvenient, particularly 
 where there are but one or two waiters, and eight or- ten persons 
 at table. We see no very reasonable objection to having the 
 cantors on the dining table. If there are two sets of castors, 
 pkce in the middle of the table the salad bowl or the celery 
 glass ; unless there is company to dinner, and the centre, per- 
 haps, is occupied by a plateau, an epergne, a vase of flowers, 
 or some other ornament. 
 
 If there are to be two large dishes, place a carving knife and 
 fork, and a large gravy spoon, for each. For soup, place the 
 
 22* 
 
2 58 T H E II U S E B K. 
 
 soup-ladle at the head of the tabic. For fish, lay the fish-knife 
 at the foot. Also knives, forks, and spoons for the side dishes. 
 
 At the right hand of every plate place a tumbler, and one or 
 more wine-g-1 asses, according to the variety of wines that are 
 to be brought to table ; it being customary to drink differenl 
 wines out of different sorts of glasses ; the fashionable glass 
 for each wine varying so frequently, that it is difficult in this 
 respect to give any rules. The decanters are to stand near the 
 corners. It is now usual at many tables to have a small water- 
 bottle (holding about a pint) placed by the side of every plate, 
 that each person may pour out water for himself. Neverthe- 
 less, there should always be water-pitchers on the side-table, 
 to replenish the bottles w^hen necessary, whether large or small 
 ones are used on the table. In summer, when fillinor the 
 pitchers, put two or three lumps of ice into each. 
 
 At the right hand of every plate put the napkin and the bread, 
 taking each piece out of the bread-basket with a fork. At 
 dinner-parties it is usual to have each napkin nicely folded in 
 a diamond or other form, and the bread laid in the centre, 
 covered by one of the corners. On such occasions it is very 
 customary to have light French rolls instead of pieces of cut 
 bread. 
 
 On the side-table place a waiter or tray for receiving the 
 dish-covers, plates, dishes, &c., that are removed from the table 
 after using. Also a knife-basket. It is a good custom to keep 
 there always at dinner-time (as mentioned in a former page) a 
 large can or mug of painted block tin, filled with hot water, in 
 which to plunge the blades of the knives as they are taken from 
 table, that the grease may not have time to dry on them. To 
 wipe a knife or fork and return it to the table, is not an agree- 
 able custom ; as, without a regular cleaning, they will always 
 emell and taste of the things for which they have just been 
 
SETTI NG' THE DINNER TAULE. 259 
 
 used of fish, cheese, or onions, particularly. In all families 
 that are able to live genteelly, there should be a sufficiency, of 
 knives, forks, &c., to afford fresh clean ones as often as tlu 
 plates are changed. It is well, even in small private families 
 to have on the side-table some extra plates, knives, glasses, 
 &c., in case of a friend coming in unexpectedly, and consent 
 ing to sit down and take dinner ; this will preclude the neces- 
 sity of sending a servant out of the room to bring them ; 
 besides which, they will be at hand, in case they may acci- 
 dentally be wanted for other purposes. 
 
 The side-board is the place for the extra bottles, glasses, 
 silver, china, fruit, &c., that may be required at the dessert, or 
 after the cloth is removed. These articles may be so disposed 
 on the side-board as to make a very handsome appearance, 
 particularly when it has a marble top, and is lighted up for an 
 evening dinner-party. The side-board is also the place for 
 handsome water-pitchers, finger-glasses, and silver waiters. 
 
 When dinner is ready, bring in your dishes on the tray, set- 
 ting it down on the tray-stand. Each dish should have a 
 cover. If there is soup, set the tureen at the head of the 
 table, to be helped by the mistress of the house ; and if there 
 is fish also, place that at the foot of the table. Should there 
 be only one of these articles, put it before the lady's seat, and 
 place the largest dish of meat or poultry at the bottom. Set 
 the side dishes opposite to each other ; and in arranging the 
 vegetables, do not place together those that are most similar. 
 For instance, do not put peas and beans next to each other ; 
 or sweet potatoes and white potatoes ; or parsneps and carrots ; 
 or squashes and mashed turnips. It would be still worse, 
 when there are two dishes of each vegetable, (as is generally ^he 
 case at a large table,) to place together both dishes of asparagus, 
 or both disfies of cauliflower. They should be made to match 
 
260 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 cross corners, (as it is called,) placing one on each side of the 
 table, not directly opposite, but diagonally or slanting. 
 
 Attempts have been made to introduce the English fashion, 
 of keeping all the vegetables on the- side-table, the waiters 
 bringing each one separately to the table, as it may be asked 
 for by any person that wishes it, and then carrying it back 
 again. We think this custom too tedious and too troublesome 
 to become very general in America. Unless the waiters are 
 very alert, and amply sufficient in number, it is well not to give 
 them any unnecessary addition to their indispensable business. 
 
 Before dinner, let the cold pastry be placed in the side-board 
 closet, that it may be at hand when wanted for the table ; or 
 else, if the pantry is close to the dining room, it may be set out 
 there, covering it with a clean cloth to keep the flies from it. 
 Covers of fine black wire net are very useful for fruit and 
 sweetmeat dishes. 
 
 Boiled puddings are always eaten warm, and should not be 
 taken out of the pot, till a few minutes before they go to table. 
 When the family are nearly ready for the pudding, the waiter 
 should ring the bell into the kitchen, and the cook will send 
 some one, or come herself, to meet him with the pudding, at 
 the dining-room door. 
 
 In placing the dishes, see that they are all set perfectly 
 straight and even, and that each has near it the proper sauce 
 or gravy. Afterwards arrange the chairs round the table ; and 
 if it is winter, put the chair-screens, if you have them, on those 
 that are nearest the fire. If it is summer, see that the sashes 
 are raised, and the Venetian blinds drawn down, turning the 
 slats, so as to make the room sufficiently light. Then give 
 notice that dinner is ready, either by ringing the dinner-bell, 
 sounamg the gong, as may be the custom of the family ;- or by 
 opening the drawing-room door, and advancing a little towards 
 
WAITING ON TABLE. 261 
 
 the lady of the house, and bowing to her. This last is th« 
 most usual mode of announcement when there is company t/ 
 
 dinner. 
 
 If the dinner is in the evening, see that the lamps, candles 
 &c., are all in good order before you place them on the table 
 The table should be very well lighted, particularly at a dinnei 
 party. If the dinner is to commence in daylight, and it is so 
 late in the afternoon that there is any possibility of its being 
 protracted till after sunset, it is best to close the windows and 
 light the candles at once ; as it is extremely uncomfortable to 
 have the company overtaken by the gloom of twilight, and 
 obliged to wait almost in darkness while the lights are prepar- 
 ing. See also that the entry lamp, stair lamps, &c., are lighted 
 in early time ; so that the guests may have no difficulty in 
 finding their way, and that the servants may not be liable to 
 break things by stumbling with them in the dark. 
 
 WAITING ON TABLE.— When attending on table you 
 should always be clean and neatly drest; as nothing, at such 
 a time, is more disgusting than a greasy, slovenly, shabby- 
 looking waiter. A good waiter, who has a proper respect foi 
 himself and his employers, will always put on a clean collai 
 before dinner, and a clean white apron ; taking care that nfi 
 part of his dress is either dirty or ragged. If he is i)rudent and 
 sober, his wages will easily enable him to wear decent clothes 
 on week-days as well as on Sunday. There are domestic^ 
 (woiM-n as well as men) who do not scruple to go about the 
 house, and appear before the family and their visiters, almos* 
 in the garb of beggars, while all their money is saved for the 
 purchase of holiday finery. Against this disrespectiu. and 
 revoltmg practice the head of the family should at least try tha 
 
262 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 effect of remonstrance ; for if passed over or connived at, it will 
 grow into an absolute nuisance. 
 
 For a waiter, while engaged in his business, a round jacket 
 is more convenient and appropriate than a long coat ; and in 
 summer his clothes should be of materials that will wash. 
 Shoes are more convenient for him than boots, as they are less 
 nois}'^; and being lighter, he can move about in them with more 
 alertness. Presuming it to be a clean one, his shirt-collar 
 should always appear above his cravat when drest for waiting 
 on table ; as the want of something white about the neck v/ill 
 give any man (even a gentleman), a dingy and dirty appearance. 
 When attending at dinner, he should have on his hands a pair 
 of clean white cotton gloves ; alwajj's, at least, if there is com- 
 pany. Ha should never wait at table without a small server 
 in his hand, on which to receive or carry round plates, knives, 
 vegetable dishes, the bread-basket, and whatever may be 
 wanted ; and in the other hand he should hold a napkin, with 
 which to take hold of the plates, &c., when changing them. 
 Whether he has gloves on or not, the napkin ought on no 
 account to be omitted ; and he should hold the plate by the 
 edge of the rim only. We have seen the rim of a plate very 
 disagreeably marked by the thumb of a dirty-handed waiter, 
 who had no napkin. 
 
 The master of the house will, before dinner, have given you 
 his orders respecting the wines. 
 
 After you have announced the dinner, and held the door open 
 till the company have all gone into the dining-room, shut it, 
 (unless in summer,) and after they are seated, take dSt the 
 covers of the soup or fish ; and, till these are done with, leave 
 the other dishes covered. W^hen the soup and fish are removed, 
 uncover the other things, beginning at the bottom dish on the 
 left-hand side. In taking off the covers, turn them up quickly. 
 
WAITING ON TABLE. 203 
 
 that the drops of greasy steam on the inside may not fall on the 
 table-cloth. Deposit them for the present in the tray, till there 
 IS an opportunity of carrying them out. 
 
 If you are the only waiter, take your station at the bottom 
 of the table, about a yard from the person that is carving, and 
 a little to the left of his chair : this will give you an opportu- 
 nity of seeing what is wanted, much better than if you stood 
 exactly behind him. If there are two attendants, the second 
 should place himself in the same manner near the lady of the 
 house. If there are four, two should stand at the sides of the 
 table ; not exactly opposite to each other, but one rather nearer 
 to the top, the other somewhat nearer to the bottom. All 
 should be drest as nearly as possible alike, and every one 
 should have a white apron, white gloves, a small server or 
 hand-waiter, (which is frequently of silver,) and a napkin. 
 
 Go first to each of the ladies, and in a low voice inquire what 
 you shall bring them. After they are all helped, attend to the 
 gentlemen. When you hold a plate to the carver, stand at his 
 left-hand ; and when you take it to the person for whom it is 
 intended, go to the left side also. Hand nothing to any one 
 without first placing it on your small server ; and always go 
 to the left side, except when you are filling a glass with water, 
 cider, or beer ; then go to the right, as the tumbler stands on 
 that side ; and be careful that you do not pour it too full, so as 
 to run it over and wet the cloth. 
 
 After every one has been helped by the carvers, take the 
 vegetable dishes, two at a time, on your hand-waiter, and carry 
 them round to' each of the company. If the attendants are 
 alert, and sufficient in number, there will be no occasion for 
 any persons at table to offer, or to require being helped to vege- 
 tables, sauces, &c., by each other : and no lady or gentleman 
 accustomed to dining in company, will have any hesitation 
 
fJ64 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 about asking the domestics for whatever they want; instead of 
 depending on the services of their friends, or waiting awkwardly 
 ind silently, in the hope that some one may chance to perceive 
 heir destitution and come to their relief. 
 
 The waiter, however, should look out attentively, and when 
 ne perceives that bread, water, sauce, &c., is wanted, he should 
 bring it, even without being told. He should also attend par- 
 ticularly to any very young or evidently inexperienced persons, 
 whose diffidence may prevent them from asking for themselves. 
 
 When you perceive that all the company have done with the 
 meat, poultry, &c., keep your eye on the lady of the house, and 
 she will make a sign for you to take away the plates and remove 
 the dishes. In doing so, take hold of the dishes firmly, the 
 larger ones in both hands, and see that you lift them high 
 enough to clear the glasses, &c. It is well to ring the bell 
 first, as a signal for the cook to have ready the pastry, «fec., 
 which in America is generally termed the dessert ; though in 
 Europe the dessert signifies only the fruit and other-things that 
 are put on the table with the wine, after the cloth is removed. 
 
 As you take the plates, put them on the tray or on the side- 
 table, if you have no plate-basket; and deposit the knives in 
 the knife-tray or knife-basket, which should be made with a 
 division for the forks. Do all this expeditiously, and without 
 noise. Then take a fork in one hand, and a large plate in the 
 other, and go round and collect all the pieces of bread that may 
 be left on the table. Next, take your crumb-brush and a small 
 server, and go round and brush oflT all the crumbs. When there 
 is dinner company, it is very customary to spread two damask 
 cloths on the table, the, upper one to be taken off and carried 
 dway, after the meat, &c., is removed ; leaving beneath it a 
 clean one for the pastry and confectionary. When you bring 
 in these articles, arrange them so as to look handsomely, placing 
 
WAITING ON TABLE. 265 
 
 in the centre of the table the largest and most conspicuous. 
 Beside a dessert plate and a small knife and fork, set, if neces- 
 sary, a saucer and a spoon to each person. At this time there 
 should always be on the table small vessels of glass or silver, 
 "containing powdered loaf-sugar, with a little sugar ladle in each, 
 in case any of the articles should require more sweetening. 
 
 The usual time for eating salad or lobster is between the 
 Aieat and the pastry. These things are generally drest by some 
 one at table, (frequently a tedious business,) and handed round 
 to the company. It is, perhaps, more convenient to have them 
 drest immediately before dinner, and brought to table in a large 
 glass bowl. 
 
 This also is the usual time for eating cheese. 
 
 When the company have done with the confectionary, the 
 finger glasses should be brought on hand-waiters, setting one 
 glass before each person ; after which, the napkins having been 
 returned to the table, remove them all. 
 
 Finally, clear every thing off the table ; and, turning up the 
 cloth all round, take it up by the edges, and carry it away to 
 be shaken out. Then put on the v/ine, fruit, and cake, with 
 the powdered sugar, in case it should be wanted. Set for every 
 person a small plate, a fruit knife, (those made for the purpose 
 are generally of silver,) a nut-picker, and a doily for the fingers. 
 The nuts should be cracked before they are brought to table, 
 and done carefully, so as to divide them in half, and not crush 
 them to atoms. 
 
 Set on the wines and fruit so as to match cross-comers, and 
 the large cake in the centre ; and place on the table one or more 
 pitchers of ice-water, standing on small waiters, with a few 
 tumblers round them. If in summer, set on also the saucers 
 of broken up ice. Remove the things from the side-table with 
 as little noise as possible ; after which you may leave, the 
 
 23 
 
266 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 dining-room, as your services will be no longer rs quired there, 
 fiCt the articles on the side-board remain undisturbed till after 
 ihe company has adjourned to the drawing-room, or departed. 
 
 During dinner, some one should see that the drawing-room 
 fire is burning well, and, if it is evening, that the lamps are 
 lighted, both there and on the way thither. 
 
 In the mean time you may see to the washing of the glasses, 
 silver, &c. ; counting all the articles of plate, and putting them 
 away carefully. 
 
 At dinner parties of gentlemen only, it is usual to have coffee 
 brought in when they have sat a certain time over the wine and 
 fruit. The coffee must be made very strong and clear, and 
 handed round on a waiter with the sugar dish and milk jug : 
 nothing is eaten with it. The time for bringing it in will be 
 denoted by an order from the m.istress of the house, or by the 
 master ringing the dining-room bell. After coffee the gentle- 
 men usually depart. If there are ladies at the dinner, they will 
 leave the table with their hostess when she makes the signal, 
 and remain with her in the drawing-room, where she will send 
 for the gentlemen to join them at tea. The waiter will then 
 be wanted to carry round the tea and coffee. 
 
 When the dining-room is vacated by the gentlemen, let the 
 table be cleared as soon as possible, and wiped clean ; putting 
 the wine, &c., carefully away. 
 
 With regard to desserts at dinner parties, a very excellent 
 fashion prevails in some parts of the old world, which might 
 be introduced to much advantage in the new ; particularly in 
 warm weather, and in large houses where there is no want of 
 rooms. It is to have a separate table for the dessert, set out in 
 another apartment, (generally one opening into the garden.) 
 When the company have finished the meats, &c., they are con- 
 auck^ed into the cool fresh dessert-room, and take their seats at 
 
WAITING ON TABLE. 267 
 
 the table, where there has been time and opportunity to arrange 
 the articles of confectionary so as to produce a much more ele- 
 gant eflfect than when brought in one at a time to replace the 
 dishes that have just been removed. Meanwhile, the first table 
 can be cleared completely, and with more convenience than 
 when done in presence of the company. 
 
 Another advantage of having the dessert table set out in 
 another room is, that it gives the guests an opportunity of 
 changing partners. 
 
 The preparations for a dinner party should be commenced 
 the day before. The waiter should have a bill of fare given to 
 him in time, that he may know what arrangements to make in 
 his department. 
 
 It will be seen that the foregoing directions for waiting on 
 table refer particularly (but not exclusively) to large dinners. 
 Any waiter that is clever in his attendance on company, will 
 be equally so when his services are required on a smaller scale, 
 and when there are none at table but the family. In genteeJ 
 houses the arrangements of a family dinner should be so con- 
 ducted, that the waiter, being accustomed every day to setting 
 the table nicely, and waiting on it properly, will not feel tlie 
 least at a loss when he is required to do so for company. If 
 the family fall into the habit of waiting on themselves when 
 they are alone, the domestics (besides losing some of their 
 respect for them) soon get out of practice : and when there are 
 strangers at dinner, become so bewildered and awkward as fre- 
 quently to cause much vexation. 
 
 Some families wish to dispense with the presence of servants 
 at meal-times, considering them a restraint on the freedom of 
 conversation. When this is the case, the little roisnd tables 
 called dumb-waiters are very useful, placing one of them behind 
 every two persons. On these are placed clean plates, knives, 
 
268 THE HOUSE book. 
 
 forks, and whatever may be wanted ; and each has a shelf 
 below, on which to set away the dirty plates, &c. 
 
 CARVING. — The seat for the carver should be somewhat 
 elevated above the other chairs : it is extremely ungraceful to 
 carve standing, and it is rarely done by any person accustomed 
 to the business. Carving depends more on skill than on 
 strength. We have seen very small women carve admirably 
 sitting down ; and very tall men who knew not how to cut a 
 piece of beef-steak without rising on their feet to do it. 
 
 The carving knife should be very sharp, and not heavy ; and 
 it should be held firmly in the hand : also the dish should bff 
 not too far from the carver. It is customary to help the fish 
 with a fish trowel, and not with a knife. The middle part of 
 a fish is generally considered the best. In helping it, avoid 
 breaking the flakes, as that will give it a mangled appearance. 
 
 In carving ribs or sirloin of beef, begin by cuttmg thin slices 
 oif the side next to you. Afterwards you may cut from thf 
 tender-loin, or cross-part near the lower end. Do not send anj 
 one the outside piece, unless you know that they particularly 
 -vish it. 
 
 In helping beef-steak, put none of the bone on the plate. 
 
 In cutting a round of corned beef, begin at the top ; but laj 
 aside the first cut or outside piece, and send it to no one, as ii 
 is always dry and hard. In a round of a-la-mode heef^ the out 
 side is frequently preferred. 
 
 In a leg of mutton, begin across the middle, cutting the 
 slices quite down to the bone. The same with a leg of pork 
 or a ham. The latter should be cut in very thin slices, as its 
 flavour is spoiled when cut thick. 
 
 To taste well, a tongue should be cut crossways in round 
 slices. Cutting it lengthways (though the practice at many 
 
CARVING. 269 
 
 tables) injures the flavour. The middle part of the tongue is 
 the best. Do not help any one to a piece of the root ; that, 
 being by no means a favourite part, is generally left in the dish. 
 
 In carving a fore-quarter of lamb, first separate the shoulder 
 part from the breast and ribs, by passing the knife under, and 
 then divide the ribs. If the lamb is large, have another dish 
 Drought, to put the shoulder in. 
 
 For a loin of veal, begin near the smallest end, and separate 
 the ribs ; helping a part of the kidney (as far as it will go) 
 with each piece. Carve a loin of pork or mutton in the same 
 manner. 
 
 In carving a fillet of veal, begin at the top. Many persons 
 prefer the first cut of outside piece. Help a portion of the 
 stuffing with each slice. 
 
 In a breast of veal, there are two parts very different in 
 quality, the ribs and the brisket. You will easily perceive the 
 division ; enter your knife at it, and cut through, which will 
 separate the two parts. Ask the persons you are going to help, 
 whether they prefer a rib, or a piece of the brisket. 
 
 For a haunch of venison, first make a deep incision, by pass- 
 ing your knife all along the side, cutting quite down to the 
 bone. This is to let out the gravy. Then turn the broad end 
 of the haunch towards you, and cut it as deep as you can in 
 thin, smooth slices, allowing some of the fat to each person. 
 
 For a saddle of venison, or of mutton, cut from the tail to 
 
 the other end on each side of the back-bone, making very thin 
 
 slices, and sending some fat with each. Venison and roast 
 
 mutton chill very soon, therefore it is usual to eat it with iron 
 
 Leaters under the plates. Some heaters are made to contain 
 
 hot coals, others are kept warm with boiling water, and some 
 
 are heated by spirits of wine ; the last is a very exceptionable 
 
 mode, as the blue blaze flaming out all round the plate, is tc» 
 
 23* 
 
870 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 many persons frightful. Currant jelly is an indispensable 
 appendage to venison, and to roast mutton, and to ducks. 
 
 A young pig is most generally divided before it comes to 
 table, in which case, it is not customary to send in the head, 
 as to many persons it is a revolting spectacle after it is cut off. 
 When served up whole, first separate the head from the shoui 
 ders, then cut off the limbs, and then divide the ribs. Help 
 some of the stuffing with each piece. 
 
 To carve a fowl, begin by sticking your fork i;ri the pinion, 
 and drawing it towards the leg ; and then passing your knife 
 underneath, take off the wing at the joint. Next, slip your 
 knife between the leg and the body, to cut through the joint; 
 and with the fork, turn the leg back, and the joint will givo 
 way. Then take off the other wing and leg. If the fowl has 
 been trussed (as it ought to be) with the liver and gizzard, 
 help the liver with one wing, and the gizzard with the other. 
 The liver wing is considered the best. After the limbs are 
 taken off, enter your knife into the top of the breast, and cut 
 under the merry-thought, so as to loosen it, lifting it with your 
 fork. Afterwards cut slices from both sides of the breast 
 Next take off the collar-bones, which lie on each side of the 
 merry-thought, and then separate the side-bones from the back. 
 The breast and wings are considered as the most delicate parts 
 of the fowl ; the back, as the least desirable, is generally left 
 in the dish. Some persons, in carving a fowl, find it more 
 convenient to take it on a plate, and as they separate it, return 
 each part to the dish ; but this is not now the usual way. 
 
 A turkey is carved in the same manner as a fowl ; excep 
 that the legs and" wings being larger, are separated at the lower 
 joint. The lower part of the leg, (or drumstick, as it is called,) 
 bemg hard, tough, and stringy, is never helped to any one, but 
 aUrwed to remain on the dish. First cut off the vving, leg. 
 
CARVING. 2^1 
 
 and breast from one side; then turn the turkey round, and cut 
 them off from the ether. 
 
 To carve a goose, separate the leg from the body, by putting 
 the fork into the small end of the limb ; pressing it close to 
 the body, and then passing the knife under, and turning the leg 
 back, as you cut through the joint. To take off the wing, put 
 your fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it closely 
 to the body ; then slip the knife under, and separate the joint. 
 Next cut under the merry-thought, and take it off; and then 
 cut slices from the breast. Then turn the goose, and dismem- 
 ber the other side. Take off the two upper side-bones, that 
 are next to the wings ; and then the two lower side-bones. 
 The breast and legs of a goose afford the finest pieces. If a 
 goose is old, there is no fowl so tough ; and if difficult to carve, 
 it will be still more difficult to eat. 
 
 Partridges, pheasants, grouse, &c., are carved in the same 
 manner as fowls. Quails, woodcocks, and snipes are merely 
 split down the back ; so also are pigeons, giving a half to each 
 person, or a whole one if small. 
 
 In helping any one to gravy, or to melted butter, do not pour 
 it over their meat, fowl, or fish, but put it to one side on a 
 vacant part of the plate, that they may use just as much of it 
 as they like. In filling a plate, never heap one thing on 
 
 another. ^ 
 
 If 
 
 In helping vegetables, do not plunge the spoon down to the 
 bottom of the dish, in case they should not have been perfectly 
 well drained, and the water should have settled there. 
 
 By observing carefully how it is done, you may acquire a 
 knowledge of the joints, and of the process of carving, which 
 a little daily practice will soon convert into dexterity. If a 
 younjr lady is ignorant of this very useful art, it will be weii 
 for her to take lessons of her father, or her brother, an4 a 
 
272 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 married lady can easily learn from her husband. Domestics 
 who wait at table may soon, from looking on daily, become so 
 expert that, when necessary, they can take a dish to the side- 
 table and carve it perfectly well. 
 
 At a dinner party, if the hostess is quite young, she is fre- 
 qaently glad to be relieved of the trouble of carving by the 
 gentleman who sits nearest to her; but if she is familiar with 
 the business, she usually prefers doing it herself. 
 
 TO DRAW POULTRY, &c.— Though to prepare poultry 
 for cooking is by no means an agreeable business, yet some 
 knowledge of it may be very useful to the mistress of a house, 
 in case she should have occasion to instruct a servant in the 
 manner of doing it; or in the possible event of her being obliged 
 to do it herself; for instance, if her cook has been suddenly 
 taken ill, or has left her unexpectedly. 
 
 As all poultry is, of course, drawn in the same manner, it 
 will be sufficient to designate the mode of emptying the inside 
 of a fowl. In winter, if the fowl is frozen, lay it before the 
 fire till it has completely thawed. Then have ready one or 
 more large pieces of waste paper, rolled up loosely into a long 
 wisp ; lay the fowl down on a clean part of the hearth, and, 
 taking its legs in your hand, light the paper, and pass it back 
 and forv^ard above the surface of the skin, (turning the fowl on 
 both sides,) so as to singe off all the hairs; doing it so carefully 
 as not to burn or scorch the skin. There should always be a 
 quantity of old newspapers, or other waste paper, kept in z. 
 d.oset or drawer of the kitchen for this and other purposes. 
 Next, lay the fowl upon its back on a clean old waiter or tray, 
 (such as should be kept in every kitchen,) and with a large 
 sharp knife cut off, first the head, and then the legs at the first 
 ,oint The next thing is to cut a very long slit in the skin at 
 
DRAWING POULTRY, ETC. 273 
 
 the right side of the neck, and witli your fing-i^rs strip down the 
 skin towards the shoulders, till you come to the craw, which 
 you must take out with your hand. Then with your knife 
 make tAvo long deep cuts or incistons on each side of the body, 
 going downward towards the tail. Put your hand' into the cut 
 or orifice on the right side, and pull out the heart, liver, gizzard, 
 and then the. entrails. Take care not to break the gall-bag, or 
 its liquor will run over the liver, and make it so bitter that it 
 cannot be eaten, and should therefore be thrown away without 
 cooking. Next, to flatten the body, break the breast-bone by 
 a triking on it hard with your hand. Then tuck the legs into 
 the lower part of the slits that you have cut on each side of the 
 body. Afterwards with your hand bend or curve inwards the 
 end of the neck-bone, and tuck it away under the long loose 
 piece of skin left there. After this, lay the fowl in a small tub 
 of cold water, and wash it well inside and out : then dry it with 
 a clean towel. 
 
 Next, cut open the gizzard, empty it of the sand and gravel, 
 and take out the thick inside skin. Split open the heart, and 
 let out the blood that is in it. Then carefully cut the gall-bag 
 from the liver, so as not to break it. Wash clean the heart, 
 liver, and gizzard, (having trimmed them neatly,) and return 
 the heart to the inside of the breast; putting back also the eggs, 
 if you have found any. Have ready the stuffing, and fill up 
 with it the vacancy from which you have taken the craw, &c., 
 pressing it in hard. Next, taking between your thumb and 
 finger the above-mentioned piece of skin at the top of the neck, 
 draw it down, tightly towards the back of the fowl, (folding it 
 nicely over the bent end of the neck-bone,) and fasten it down 
 between the shoulders with a skewer, which must be stuck in so 
 as to go lengthways down the back. This will prevent any ol 
 the stuffing from getting out, and will keep all compact ar-a nice. 
 
274 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 Then run a skewer through both the wings and the upper 
 part of the body, tucking in the liver so as to appear from under 
 the right pinion, and the gizzard (scoring it first) on the left. 
 Both pinions must be bent ^upwards. Lastly, secure all by 
 tying two strings of small twine tightly round the fowl ; one 
 just above the skewer that confines the legs; the other just 
 below that which passes through the wings. 
 
 Of course, the strings and skewers are removed before the 
 poultry is sent to table. 
 
 Turkeys, geese, and ducks are always trussed in this manner, 
 the legs being cut off at the first joint. So are fowls for boiling. 
 But when fowls are to be roasted, some cooks leave on the 
 whole of the legs and feet, (scraping and washing them clean,) 
 and drawing the feet up quite to the breast, where they are -tied 
 together by a string. 
 
 Pigeons, pheasants, partridges, &c., are all trussed as above, 
 with the legs short. 
 
 To draw a little roasting pig, cut the body open by one long 
 slit, and before you take out what is inside, loosen it all with 
 a sharp knife ; then extract it with your hands. Empty the 
 head also. Afterwards wash the animal clean, (inside and out,) 
 and fill the vacancy with stuffing. Having bent the knees 
 under, skewer the legs to the body, ^nd secure the stuffing by 
 tying twine tightly several times round the body; first fasten- 
 ing the slit by pinning it with a wooden skewer. Having 
 Doiled the liver and heart, chop them to enrich the gravy. 
 
 THE BREAKFAST TABLE.— If preparing the breakfast 
 table in winter, first see that the fire is good and the hearth 
 clean. If in summer, that the butter and cream are cooling in 
 the ice. If you have no ice, they may be cooled by standing 
 hi a vessel of cold pump- water. In warm weather, some fami- 
 
THE BREAKFAST TABLE. 275 
 
 lies have fresh fruit on the breakfast table, such as currants, 
 strawberries, raspberries, &c. If produced in the garden, they 
 should be gathered early, divested of the stems, put into deep 
 dishes, sprinkled with powdered white sugar, and set on ice, 
 or in some cold place. 
 
 Having removed the coloured table cover, (if there is one,) 
 and wiped the table with a duster, spread on the white cloth 
 as evenly as possible, observing that the centre crease of its 
 folds is exactly in the centre of the table. Then place the large 
 lapanned waiter at the head of the table, and put on it a cup, 
 saucer, and tea-spoon for each person, and a small pile of three 
 or four extra ones, in case they should chance to be wanted. 
 Put the tea-spoons at the right-hand side of the cup. Back of 
 the cups and saucers, set the sugar-dish on the right-hand, and 
 the cream-pot on the left, with the slop-bowl in the centre ; 
 leaving a place behind for the coiFee-pot or tea-pot. If there is 
 an urn, its place is beyond the waiter ; and there should be a 
 stand for it, either of worsted wprk or of oil-cloth. If the 
 spout is inconveniently low, (as is sometimes the case,) the 
 urn may be elevated by a stand made of a thick block of wood, 
 nicely finished, and painted and varnished in imitation of ma- 
 hogany or black walnut. The spout of the tea-urn should be 
 immediately over the tea-pot. If there is a coffee-um, the cups, 
 of course, are filled directly from it. 
 
 In preparing the urn, see that the heater is put into the fire 
 in time to become red-hot. When you put it into the cylinder, 
 take care not to drop it down too hard and heavy, or you may 
 break the bottom of the urn. There should be a long iron rod 
 with a hook at the end, for the purpose of lifting the heater. 
 The water or the coifee must always be boiling hot at the time 
 you pour it into the urn, and it must always be filled to a level 
 with the heater, which otherwise may burn the top and sides. 
 
276 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 An urn should be washed out every ddj, and wiped dry inside; 
 as, if left damp, it will be apt to get musty. An urn that is 
 put by for any length of time should, while out of use, be kept 
 filled with clean waste paper: not newspapers, however, or 
 any sort that is printed. It is well to have a green baize cover 
 ioi your urns, as it will preserve them from dust and damp, and 
 Irom injury by the flies. 
 
 In some families, a bright tea-kettle on a chafing-dish, to 
 stand on the hearth, is used instead of a water-urn. In this 
 case, see that the chafing-dish is well filled with clear glowing 
 coals, free from ashes ; and that the' water is boiling hard at 
 the time the kettle is filled. It should be brought in about ten 
 minutes before the breakfast hour, that the tea made with it 
 may have time to draw. ' Scald the pot twice before the tea is 
 put in. 
 
 After you have set the cups, place round the table the plates, 
 knives, and forks, leaving a few extra ones on the side-board. 
 If they are used in the family, do not forget to set round the 
 little cup-plates. Lay also a napkin for each person. Place 
 the castor in the centre of the table, and the eggs just behind 
 it. If a tin or silver egg-boiler is used on the table, it should 
 be filled in the kitchen with water that is boiling. Then put 
 in the eggs^ which ought first to be wiped clean ; for, though 
 the outside is not eaten, if dirty they look disagreeably. In 
 three or four minutes pour off the first water, (which will have 
 become chilled by the coldness of the eggs,) and fill up the tin 
 Mdth some more that is boiling hard. Then shut up the covers, 
 and the eggs will finish their boiling on the table. 
 
 When egg-cups are used, they are generally of china, or else 
 of silver, gilt inside. The egg is set into the cup, and, having 
 broken the large end by striking it with a spoon, it is eaten out 
 of the shell. Another way is to have egg-glasses, and to empty 
 
THE CllEAKFAST TABLE. 277 
 
 into the glass the contents of the egg-. Spoons for the egga 
 should be laid beside all the plates. Have two salt-cellars ; 
 and, as there should be a plate of butter on each side of the 
 table, put two butter-knives. Butter for breakfast looks very 
 nicely if made into round pats and printed with a small butter 
 print. On the top, if the weather is warm, should be laid a 
 piece of clear bright ice. There are small, covered, deep dishes 
 of china or glass, purposely for holding the butter when brought 
 to table. There are similar covered dishes for cheese. For 
 whatever meat or fish may be at breakfast, lay a knife, fork, 
 and spoon to help it with ; and place mats for the hot dishes, 
 which should be brought in with covers. Do not cut the bread 
 too thin, and see that a sufficiency of it is put on at once. If 
 there are hot cakes, let them be brought to the door, and there 
 delivered to the waiter ; for it will be very inconvenient to have 
 him continually going in and out for them. Of batter cakes, 
 it is well to begin with four on each plate ; otherwise the inter- 
 vals between the arrival of the fresh supplies will be quite too 
 long for persons with good appetites, or who may have but 
 little time to remain at table. 
 
 The domestic that attends at breakfast should (as at dinner) 
 have a napkin and a small waiter, with which to hand every 
 thing. It is the custom in many houses (and a very good one) 
 to send round the sugar and cream, that each person may use 
 them according to his own taste. The custom of putting brown 
 sugar in coffee is now exploded in almost all families that live 
 genteelly. 
 
 The coffee should on no consideration be thick and muddy 
 It is not well to roast more than a pound at a time, as it loses 
 its strength by keeping. Previous to roasting, it should be 
 washed through three waters, and then dried before the fir^j 
 Then put it into the coffee-roaster ; (an iron cylinder, standing 
 
 24 
 
278 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 horizontally on feet before the fire, and turned round occasion 
 ally by a handle.) If you have not one of these convenienl 
 articles, you must substitute an iron pot or skillet ; or you may 
 do the coffee in a tin pan, set in the oven of a hot stove. 
 Whatever it may be roasted in, it must be stirred frequently, 
 and done of a fine dark brown, not black ; putting among it, 
 while roasting, a table-spoonful of butter. By the time it is 
 taken from the fire, have ready for one quart of coflfee the white 
 of two eggs, beaten to a froth, and gradually mix it with the 
 cofl'ee, after it has been poured out into an earthen pan, and 
 while it is cooling. It. must not be hot enough to turn the egg 
 white. This will give the coffee sufficient clearness when 
 ground and made ; and precludes the necessity of putting in 
 isinglass or white of egg every morning. If it is necessary to 
 roast a larger quantity at once, you will find the whites of three 
 eggs sufficient for four quarts of coffee. 
 
 If there are both fish and meat on the breakfast table, see to 
 have at hand a sufficient supply of clean plates, knives, and 
 forks, in case any of the company should choose to eat of both. 
 At breakfast, as at dinner, things should be so arranged that 
 the waiter will have no occasion to leave the room. If there 
 is cold ham, let it be sliced extremely thin. Ham for broiling 
 or frying should, early in the morning, or the night before, have 
 the saitness taken out by scalding the slices several times in 
 boiling water, letting it soak in each till the water cools 
 
 Half an hour before breakfast, the waiter should ring his 
 hand bell, to give notice that the time is approaching; and 
 when every thing is on the table, and the lady of the house 
 ready to take her seat, he should ring it again. His station at 
 breakfast is behind her chair, a little to the right. He is first 
 to hand round the cups of tea or coffee, one at a time, on his 
 waiter. Next, beginning with the ladies, he is to carry their 
 
THE TEA-TABLE. 27£ 
 
 plates for whatever they may wish to have, and to hand round 
 the bread, warm cakes, &c., keeping a look-out during the 
 whole repast, to see what may be wanted. A good waiter will 
 pride himself on getting through his business properly and 
 expeditiously, without being continually reminded of it. As 
 soon as the family have quitted the table, (and not till then,) 
 he must begin to fold up the napkins and put them away, and 
 set back the chairs, remove every thing that has been used, 
 shake out and fold up the cloth, and restore the room to order. 
 In ill-managed houses, or where there are bad servants, we 
 have seen a breakfast table left standing with the cloth, &e., 
 upon it till near dinner-time. 
 
 THE TEA-TABLE.— The manner of preparing a tea-table 
 differs but little from that of breakfast. The kettle should be 
 put on at least half an hour before, wdth a sufficiently good 
 fire under it; but it is not necessary, as is the practice with 
 many inconsiderate servants, to make up, in a summer after- 
 noon, as large a fire to boil the tea-kettle as would be neces- 
 sary for cooking a dinner. Unless it is put on early enough, 
 the tea may be retarded by having to wait for it to boil. Some 
 servants think that if the kettle has once boiled, that is suffi- 
 cient ; and they will take it down, or allow the fire to diminish 
 under it, so that, at the time the water is wanted to pour on 
 the tea, instead of being boiling hot, it is only luke-warm ; in 
 which case, if even half a pound of tea was put into the pot, 
 It would be weak, flat, and tasteless. 
 
 In many families, a white table-cloth is not used at tea. If 
 the coloured cloth is of cotton, and dark, it may do very well, 
 as It can easily be washed. But a woollen cloth on a tea-table 
 is not agreeable, either to the sight, touch, or smell ; the grease, 
 
280 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 &c., in a short time renders tlieni unpleasant, and they are 
 rare.y washed as soon as is necessary. 
 
 Unless there are oysters, or cucumbers, the castors and salt 
 need not be set on the tea-table. If there are sweetmeats, it is 
 well to have an extra cream jug, or to have cream in a glass or 
 silver bowl, to be dipped out with a small ladle. For fresh 
 fruit, strawberries, raspberries, &c., a bowl of powdered loaf- 
 sugar will also be wanted. The basket or plates of sweet 
 cake should be carried round the table, on his hand-waiter, by 
 the domestic who is attending, and this should be done not 
 merely at the close of the repast, but soon after its commence- 
 ment. The various sorts of very small cakes, scarcely a 
 mouthful in size, and called by the confectioners mixed cakes, 
 are no longer introduced at tea. 
 
 HINTS ON EVENING PARTIES.— In sending notes of 
 invitation, let the hour always be specified, and the day of the 
 month, as well as that of the week. If you intend to have tea, 
 let the word be mentioned in the note ; otherwise, invite for 
 evening only. 
 
 Bespeak your confectionary, &c., at the very best shops ; other 
 wise the things may be sent to you made of bad ingredients. 
 Unless your own servants are sufficient in number, and very 
 capable, hire for the evening one or more of the men who 
 make a business of waiting at parties, and who understand 
 how they are conducted at the best houses. If you depend on 
 your own people, you must see that the fires are in good order 
 and the lamps all lighted at an early hour, and that all the re- 
 freshments are actually in the house, so that there may be no 
 disappointment, and no' occasion to send out for any thing. 
 
 When tea is to be carried round to more than four or fivfc 
 persons, tliere should be two men as waiters, one to hand thtj 
 
HINTS ON EVENING PARTIES. 281 
 
 tea, and the other the cakes. If the party is large, the waiters, 
 of course, should be more in number. 
 
 We earnestly recommend, that before the company begins to 
 arrive, there shall be provided in some convenient place, in one 
 of the drawing-rooms, a server with a pitcher of cool* water, 
 and some tumblers, for the benefit of those ladies that are in 
 the practice of interrupting and retarding the progress of the 
 tea, and sending away the man that is handing it, to bring them 
 a glass of water ; notwithstanding that they might easily haye 
 allayed their thirst while in the dressing-room. 
 
 On one of the large tea-trays or waiters, set round the cups 
 of green tea, black tea, and coffee ; those of green tea distin- 
 guished by having a spoon in each cup, the others having 
 spoons in the saucers. In the centre, place the sugar-dish, 
 cream-jug, and a small tea-pot of hot water, for those who wish 
 to weaken their tea, or to drink only milk and water. The 
 handles of all should be turned towards the company. The 
 business of carrying round the tea will be much accelerated, if 
 there is a third waiter, (a boy, for instance,) to take round on a 
 small server, the sugar, cream, and water-pots, as then the 
 first waiter will only have to stop a moment before each person, 
 merely while a cup is taken from his tray. It is not necessary, 
 when tea is handed round to a large company, to have bread 
 and butter, muffins, toast, sliced ham, tongue, or any thing of 
 that sort on the cake waiter. Few persons, (particularly 
 ladies,) on these occasions, have any desire to partake of them, 
 having, perhaps, already taken a family tea at home : and 
 they are very greasy to the fingers, injurious to the gloves, and 
 may also, by some accident, grease the dresses. It is better 
 on the cake waiter to have cake only ; for instance, a large 
 handsome one in the centre, placed on a silver waiter, anil 
 
 sliced standing ; a basket of smaller c|ikes, and one of sponge 
 
 24* 
 
282 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 cake, for persons who are unwilling to eat of any that has buttei 
 in it. There should be a silver fork on the tray, for taking out 
 a slice of the large cake, and a knife with which to cut more, 
 if necessary. On this tray should be small plates in piles, set 
 on the side next the company. 
 
 The chief waiter must take an opportunity of asking the lady 
 of the house if there is any one to whom she particularly wishes 
 the tea to be handed first. This compliment is always paid to 
 a bride, to the greatest stranger, or to a lady for whom the party 
 has been made. Otherwise the waiter understands that he is 
 to go first to the lady who appears to be the eldest in the room. 
 When all the ladies have been supplied, the tea, &c., is then 
 handed to the gentlemen, taking care to miss no one. When 
 the tea-tray is empty, the waiter is to carry it to the room where 
 it is poured out, and bring it back with a fresh supply. Some- 
 times, when the company is not very large, the tea is poured 
 out in their presence by one of the ladies of the family, seated 
 at a table in the back drawing-room. 
 
 The boy or third waiter having taken from his server the 
 cream, sugar, &c., should carry it round for the empty cups. 
 
 The man that has the cake waiter should continue to go 
 round with it, particularly in the interval between the first cups 
 and the second, and should look out to see if every person is 
 helped. After the cups have gone round a second time, (begin- 
 ning again with the lady to whom the tea was handed first,) it 
 will not be necessary to. bring in quite as many the third time, 
 as few persons take more than two. It is customary to conclude 
 by bringing in the cake-tray alone and going round with it at 
 ihe last. 
 
 About an hour after tea, it is usual to send round lemonade 
 in glasses with handles, a basket of little cakes (maccaroons, 
 &c.) being in the centre ©f the tray. If there is to be i supper 
 
HINTS ON EVENING PARTIES. 283 
 
 nothing more is handed round. If not, there is generally ice- 
 cream, jelly, blanc-mange, &c., accompanied by wafer-cakes, 
 savoy-biscuit, or almond sponge-cake, and followed immediately 
 by a tray with wine and liqueurs. Champagne is always 
 carried round in a black bottle, with the cork in except at tho 
 moment when the waiter is filling the glasses, which he must 
 do a^ quickly as possible. 
 
 When the wine, &c., is handed to the ladies, it is well to 
 have on the same tray a glass pitcher with cool water, and a 
 few tumblers. 
 
 At ladies' parties, when there is what is called a standing 
 supper, ^nd no dancing, it is customary to have the table set in 
 the back drawing-room, after ten o'clock. The waiters who 
 are hired for these occasions perform this business with great 
 expedition and dexterity, and arrange the articles on the table 
 so as to produce a very elegant effect. When all is ready, the 
 chief waiter signifies it to the lady of the house, and the com- 
 pany then assemble round the table. 
 
 Some confidential person should be employed on these even- \ 
 ings to superintend behind the scenes, and see that proper care 
 is taken of all the things that are left. The servants should be 
 forbidden to invite their friends to the kitchen, as they are very 
 apt to do on these occasions. Having company of their own 
 withdraws their attention from their business, and gives oppor- 
 tunity for much idle gossip ; besides which, their visiters 
 generally carry off nearly all the delicacies that remain of the \ 
 supper, and frequently make too free with the wine. ^y 
 
 In the principal cities it is usual to decorate the supper table 
 of a ladies' party with vases of flowers ; or with temples, bas- 
 kets, &c., of ornamental sugar-work. These can be hired, for 
 the evening, of a confectioner. Glass and china can also be 
 hired from a china-store. There are baskets of mottoes ui 
 
284 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 secrets, ice-creams, jellies, blanc-mange, sweetmeats, fresh 
 foreign fruit, cakes, charlottes, and other things, according as 
 the fashion may be. Also oysters, pickled or stewed, terrapin, 
 and chicken salad, with baskets of small light bread-rolls to 
 eat with them. Much unnecessary expense is frequently in- 
 curred on these occasions. 
 
 The gentlemen conduct the ladies to the supper-roora, and 
 help them as they stand round the table. The waiters should 
 also be alert in seeing that every one is properly attended. 
 
 Tea is only dispensed with at very large parties, where 
 banding it round in the crowd would be inconvenient. On 
 these occasions it is sometimes customary to have a table in 
 each of the dressing-rooms, with tea, coffee, and a basket of 
 cake, with a servant to pour out for any one who may choose a 
 cup before they go down. Have no wine in the gentlemen's room. 
 
 Few persons, however, go to a party without first taking 
 their tea at home at the usual hour. 
 
 On the evening of a party, the fires should be in proper order, 
 and the lamps lighted at an early hour, both in the drawing- 
 rooms, on the stair-case, and in the dressing-rooms ; and the 
 ladies of the family drest and down stairs long before it is time 
 for any of the company to arrive, in case some of the guests 
 may chance to be in advance of the hour. Let one of the 
 waiters take his station in the entry, just within the street-door, 
 to be. ready to open it immediately, as soon as the bell rings, 
 and to inform the company, as they come, where they are to 
 find the dressing-rooms. In cold weather, tfiere should be a 
 good fire in the stove that warms the hall and stair-case. It is 
 wcii to have another waiter stationed up stairs, near the gentle- 
 men's room ; and a female domestic should stay just within 
 the open door of the ladies' room till the company has all 
 arrived. Both dressing-rooms should be well lighted, havinof 
 
HINTS ON EVE NINO PARTIES. 285 
 
 a good fire in each, and a sufficiency of mirrors, combs, and 
 hair-brushes ; and in the ladies' room large pincushions filled 
 with pins on the toilet tables ; on one of which it is well to 
 have a work-box with thimble, scissors, needles, thread, sewing 
 silk, &c., in case any one should wish by a few stitches hj 
 repair an accident that may have happened to her dress, or tt. 
 sew on a string that may have broken loose from her slipper 
 Also a bottle of cologne water, and one of camphor, in case of 
 a lady being suddenly .taken ill. Two or three young women 
 should attend all the evening in this apartment, (which is 
 generally the chamber or dressing-room of the mistress of the 
 house,) for the purpose of assisting the ladies in taking off their 
 cloaks, changing their shoes, fastening their gloves, or in any 
 other way that may be required. The cloak, hood, &c., of 
 each lady should be wrapped up together and put into a sepa- 
 rate place. If there are not two toilet tables and mirrors 
 belonging to the room, let a second be placed there for that 
 evening ; as one will not be sufficient to accommodate all the 
 ladies : and gentlemen are generally rather impatient of being 
 long detained in the passage by waiting for them. It is cus- 
 tomary, till all her female guests have arrived, for the lady of 
 the house to remain at the upper end of the front drawing-room, 
 that the company, as they enter, may know exactly where to 
 find her when going up to pay their compliments. 
 
 Care should be taken that the fire and lights are kept up all 
 the evening in the dressing-rooms, and that the attendants are 
 at their posts, in case some of the company should come verv 
 late, and others should go away very early. 
 
 When the party is over, as, in all probability, every person 
 in the house will be very much fatigued, and glad to get to bed, 
 it is better to defer clearing aw^ay and w^ashing up the things 
 till next day. Let the lamps and fires be extinguished, the 
 
28f> THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 drawing-rooms and pantry be locked up, and all left as it is till 
 morning. We have heard of over-good house-waives, (more 
 nice than wise,) who boasted of having, after a party, stayed 
 up all night, and made their servants do the same, for the pur- 
 pose of having every thing washed and put regularly away, 
 and the rooms restored to their usual order; a mode of pro- 
 cedure which few circumstances could warrant, and which 
 certainly evinced very little consideration for themselves, ani 
 none at all for their domestics. 
 
 At summer evening parties it is the custom (whether the 
 refreshments are handed round or placed on a table) to have 
 after tea, cakes, confectionary, ice-cream, and fresh fruits, 
 which, if they are berries, should have with them a bowl of 
 powdered loaf-sugar and a pitcher of cream. The beverage, 
 lemonade and orgeat; and after the ice-cream, wine or li- 
 queurs. 
 
 From " the signs of the times," there is great reason to hope 
 that the period is fast approaching when large, crowded, and 
 extravagantly luxurious parties will become obsolete ; at least 
 in those classes of American society that are or ought to be 
 the most distinguished for good taste and refinement. Surely 
 the most rational, agreeable, and in every respect the most 
 eligible manner of keeping up social intercourse, is to see your 
 friends frequently, but in small numbers ; instead of once or 
 twice in the season giving what is called a squeeze, asking 
 every one you may happen to know, (and consequently many 
 whom you do not care for,) and incurring a great and sometimes 
 very inconvenient expense, and a vast deal of fatigue, for a 
 purpose that, after all, affords no real pleasure, either to the 
 family or their guests. 
 
 "We are glad to find that, in the most really genteel circles, 
 it is now becoming very customary to have only small parties ; 
 
SUPPER PARTIES. 287 
 
 inviting but twenty or thirty persons at a time, till, ia thf; 
 course of the season, you get round all your friends : and select- 
 ing, on each occasion, those that are likely to be most agreeable 
 and best suited to each other. And, as at these assemblages, 
 nothing is provided that is entirely for show, and the style of 
 dress is comparatively simple, the expense and trouble of 
 receiving company, or of going into it, is greatly and properly 
 diminished; and the enjoyment proportionably increased. 
 
 Where there is a small company, not exceeding ten or a dozen 
 persons, it is usual, an hour or two after tea, to have refresh- 
 ments brought in by a domestic, and placed on one of the tables 
 in the room, with a sufficiency of glasses, plates, forks, &c., 
 allowing a few extra ones. After which, the servant retires, 
 as soon as the mistress of the house has seen that all is right ; 
 and the gentlemen go to the table, and help the ladies as they 
 sit, to whatever they may wish. The refreshments remaining 
 on the table, as long as the company stay, and offered again, 
 previous to their departure. 
 
 SUPPER PARTIES. — Except at an oyster supper, it is not 
 very customary for ladies to appear at these entertainments. 
 For a gentlemen's supper party, it is usual to have terrapin, 
 canvas-back ducks, or game; and sometimes French dishes. 
 On some occasionSj all the articles for a gentlemen's supper 
 party are cold. The table is set out nearly the same as for 
 dinner, first seeing that the room is well lighted and well 
 warmed. If the supper consists entirely of cold things, the 
 plates must be cold also ; and it is not usual at suppers, to 
 have either wine-coolers or finger-glasses ; or to hand round 
 coffee at the close. There is sometimes chocolate and rusk. 
 
 Pastry is rarely seen on a supper-table. The dessert is of 
 ice-cream, oranges, grapes, &c. 
 
2S8 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 At an oyster supper, it is usual to have all the various pre- 
 parations of oysters, fried, stewed, broiled, roasted, raw, and 
 in patties. Potatoes mashed, and browned, are generally 
 added. The roasted oysters are served in the shell, on very 
 large dishes, and brought in " hot and hot," all the time ; as 
 they are generally eaten much faster than they can be cooked. 
 Small buckets (usually of maple or stained wood, with brass 
 hoops) are placed on the floor, for the purpose of receiving the 
 shells, beside the chairs of the gentlemen ; as the business of 
 opening the oysters mostly devolves on them. At the right 
 hand of each plate, is placed a thick folded towel, and an 
 oyster knife, which is used only to open the shell ; at the other 
 side, the napkin, fork, bread, tumbler, wine-glasses, -fee. On 
 the side-table, let there be plenty of plates, knives and forks, 
 to change with ; a basket of bread or light rolls ; pitchers of 
 water; and bottles of porter and cider; decanters of wine 
 being on the table. 
 
 Several butter-plates, with a butter knife to each, should be 
 set along the table. Sometimes the butter is made up into the 
 shape of a pine-apple, or a basket of flowers. 
 
 We subjoin an excellent receipt for 
 
 Cream-oysters. — ^Take, for instance, five hundred of the 
 largest and finest oysters you can procure. Lift them out of 
 the liquor, one at a lime, by slicking a fork into the heart or 
 hard part, and lay them in a deep pan. Then strain the liquor ; 
 take the half of it only, and boil it. When it has come to a 
 boil, have ready three quarters of a pound of the best fresh 
 butter, divided into balls or lumps, and each slightly rolled in 
 a very little flour. Add them to the boiling oyster-liquor; and 
 ■when they are all melted, stir the whole very well, and put in 
 tne oysters. As soon as they have come to a boil, take out the 
 
SUPPER PARTIES. 289 
 
 oysters, and throw them immediately into a pan of very cold 
 water ; this will plump them, and give them firmness. Then 
 take a quart and a pint of rich cream ; add it very gradually 
 to the liquor, (stirring all the time,) and give it another boil 
 after <he cream is in ; seasoning it with a powdered nutmeg, 
 or more, according to your taste. When it has boiled again, 
 return the oysters to it, and simmer them in the creamed liquoi 
 a few minutes ; just long enough to heat them thoroughly. 
 Then take them out, put them into a tureen, and serve them 
 warm, with rolls of fresh bread. 
 
 Here is a very fine receipt for 
 
 Oyster Patties. — Have ready some shells of puff-paste, baked 
 empty, in small patty-pans. You may bespeak them in the 
 morning, of a good pastry-cook, on whom you can depend for 
 using only the best butter. Take a sufficient quantity of 
 oysters, drain them, remove the hard part, and chop the rest 
 into very small pieces. Mix them with some rich cream, and 
 season them to your taste, with powdered mace and nutmeg. 
 The mixture must be very thick. Put it into a saucepan over 
 a moderate heat, and when it has come to a boil, take it off" the 
 fire, and put a portion into the hollow of each of the baked 
 shells. You may serve them up either warm or cold. 
 
 If you wish to have the patties with lids, bake, inside of 
 each, a bit of bread-crust, to support the top. When they are 
 baked, remove the lid nicely, by slipping a knife under it, fill 
 the patties with .the oyster mixture, (previously cooked,) and 
 then restore the covers. 
 
 . Oyster pies, the size of a soup-plate, may be made in this 
 manner, with chopped oysters and cream, either with or with 
 out covers. 
 
 25 
 
390 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 CHINA WARE. — For common, every-day use, china ware 
 of entire white seems now to have superseded all others, and 
 very justly ; as, when of good quality, it is pure and delicate 
 m its appearance, never looks the worse for wear, (as is the 
 case with much of the gilt china,) and when broken is easily 
 matched. If possible, avoid buying cups with handles ; as the 
 handles are rarely used, and soon knocked off, and the cup then 
 looks shabby and defaced. Many of the saucers now made 
 are but very slightly concave, and turn outwards towards the 
 edge, which makes them useless to persons who do not like to 
 take their tea out of the cup. As there are many who prefer 
 drinking out of the saucer, it is well to buy them of a conve- 
 nient shape, and also to have a set of little cup-plates or 
 cup-mats. 
 
 India china (except the large jars) is now much less in 
 favour than formerly ; as the French is generally preferred to 
 it, the gilding being more lasting, the colours finer, and the 
 patterns more elegant. The Worcester china is also very 
 beautiful in quality, gilding, and painting. It is not unusual 
 to make up at the china stores what are called Harlequin tea- 
 sets, every cup and saucer being different, and to be purchased 
 separately. Odd cups and saucers are imported for this pur- 
 pose, of all shapes, patterns, and colours. A Harlequin set, 
 however, should consist of none but the most elegant articles 
 If of low-priced cups and saucers that have no beauty to recom 
 mend them, the whole will have a mean and paltry effect, 
 looking like the leavings of broken sets. 
 
 Chma of a white ground, sprigged with flowers of different 
 colours, has too much the look of calico. The most elegant 
 that we have seen has but one colour besides the gilding. A 
 delicate light blue or pink, with a rich gold border, is very 
 beautiful. So is dove-colour and gold ; or purple and gold. 
 
MENDING BROKEN DISHES. 291 
 
 TO MEND BROKEN DISHES— If you have any dishes 
 or plates that have been merely broken in two, but not shattered, 
 procure from a house-painter a small quantity of common white 
 paint. Take the two halves of the dish, (first seeing that they 
 are perfectly dry, and free from grease ;) place them, bottom 
 upwards, on a shelf or common table, or on a floor, and smear 
 the broken edges with the paint, laying it on neatly with a 
 small brush. Then join these edges together, fitting them 
 closely. Cut some strong new linen-tape the exact length of 
 the fracture. Cover one side of the tape also with white paint, 
 and lay it over the crack where you have joined the two broken 
 pieces together. Press down the tape closely on the. crack, so 
 as to make it lie smooth and even. Then let the dish remain 
 untouched for three or four weeks, by which time the fracture 
 will be firmly cemented, and the dish will never break again 
 in that place. 
 
 Perform the process in the place where the article is tc 
 remain unmoved till quite dry ; and do it on a shelf, table, or 
 floor that is perfectly level. It should be done in a room that 
 is not in constant use, where it can be shut up so that nothing 
 will disturb it while drying, and where no dust can lodge 
 on it. 
 
 A bowl or other vessel, cracked but half across, may be 
 mended by plastering the crack on both sides with only the 
 white paint, omitting the tape. 
 
 Many servants are in the habit, when a dish comes from the 
 table, of setting it on hot coals, to keep the meat warm for their 
 own dinner, at the risk of splitting the dish in two. Let this 
 practice be forbidden ; and direct them to remove the meat into 
 a tin or iron pan when they wish to warm it. Whenever plates 
 or dishes are broken in half, care should be taken to save the 
 )>ieces, that they may be mended in the above manner : we 
 
292 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 know it to be a mode of cementing them that can certainly do 
 depended on. 
 
 TO MEND BROKEN GLASSES.— Get some cloves of 
 English garlic ; (you may obtain them in market, at a seed- 
 store, or at a druggist's ;) tie them up in a rag, lay them in a 
 tin paH, and pound them with a hammer to get out the juice. 
 Next take the broken glass, (for instance, a tumbler, bowl, or 
 dish that has been broken in half,) and wet or smear each of 
 the broken edges with the garlic juice. Then stick them firmly 
 together, stand the article on a plate, and set it away to remain 
 undisturbed for a fortnight. 
 
 The broken lid of a pitcher can also be mended in this 
 manner. 
 
 There is no wny of mending a looking-glass, if broken. 
 
 TO MEND A WINDOW PANE.— If a window glass is 
 cracked across, you may mend it by plastering some putty on 
 both sides of the crack. This will not look well, of course, 
 but it will make the broken pane air-tight, and prevent it from 
 falling apart, and may do very well till you can have a new 
 glass put in by the glazier. 
 
 TO SOFTEN OLD PUTTY.— In removing old or broken 
 panes from a window, it is generally very difficult to get off 
 the hard dry putty that sticks round the glass snd its frame. 
 Dip a small brush in a little nitric or muriatic acid, (*io be 
 obtained at the druggist's,) and go over the putty witH it. Let 
 it rest a while, and it will soon become so soft that j\» «an 
 remove it with ease. 
 
CEMENTING ALABASTER, ETC. 293 
 
 CEMENT FOR ALABASTER, MARBLE, &c.— Take a 
 jiound of bees-wax, and half a pound of rosin, and melt them 
 together. Have ready three-quarters of a pound of finely pow- 
 dered alabaster, or powdered marble, (according to the article 
 yrou wish to cement,) and add it gradually to the melted mix- 
 ture, stirring the whole very well. Then knead the whole mass 
 in water, that the ingredients may be thoroughly incorporated. 
 You may add more of the powder, to bring it nearer to the 
 colour of the article to be cemented. 
 
 Before applying this cement it must be heated, and so must 
 the parts of the subject you are going to unite ; they must also 
 be thoroughly dry, and quite free from grease. 
 
 The powder may be obtained from an alabaster or marble shop. 
 
 For cementing plaster of Paris, make the mixture with pul- 
 verized plaster. 
 
 COMMON CEMENT Mix together half a pint of vinegar 
 
 and half a pint of milk. When they have foirmed a curd, take 
 the whey only, and mix it with the whites of five eggs, beating 
 the whole very hard. Then sift in, gradually, sufficient quick- 
 lime to convert the whole into a thick paste. This will be 
 found useful for broken bowls, jugs, &c. Rub both the broken 
 (jdges, and then cover the crack with it, allowing it a fortnight 
 
 to dry. 
 
 Another good cement may be made by mixing together equal 
 quantities of melted glue, white of egg, and "white lead, and 
 ooiling them. 
 
 CEMENT FOR IRON KITCHEN UTENSILS.— Take 
 
 six parts of yellow potter's clay, and one part of steel filings ; 
 mix them together with a sufficient quantity of linseed oil to 
 make a thick paste of the consistence of glazier's putty. Then 
 
 25* 
 
294 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 apply it to the cracked parts, on both sides, and let it stand 
 three or four weeks, undisturbed. 
 
 CEMENT CAKES.— Take four ounces of the best glue, 
 and two ounces of' ising-glass ; put thein into a common glue- 
 kettle, with as much mild ale as will cover them. Dissolve 
 them, over a slow fire, to the consistence of strong glue. Then 
 add gradually, an ounce and a half of well-boiled linseed oil, 
 stirring the whole very hard. Spread it out to cool, and then 
 cut it into cakes ; in consistence, it will resemble India rubber. 
 When wanted for use, boil a piece of it in a proportionate 
 quantity of ale, till quite dissolved, and apply it hot. Then 
 let the article rest till next day. 
 
 It will unite wood, earthen-ware, china, &c. 
 
 By adding a little tow to the solution, it will afford an excel- 
 lent cement for leaks in casks, &c. 
 
 COMMON PASTE FOR PAPER.—Take two table- 
 spoonfuls of wheat flour, and mix it gradually with half a pint 
 of cold water, carefully pressing out all the lumps, and making 
 it very smooth. If you wnsh it thinner, add more water; 
 another half pint will make it quite thin. Pour it into a sauce- 
 pan or skillet, set it on hot coals, stir it frequently, and After it 
 has come to a boil, let it continue boiling about five minutes. 
 Then take it off, and put it to cool. 
 
 A little powdered alum, (for instance, a half tea-spoonful to 
 the above quantity,) stirred in while over the fire, is an im- 
 provement t*" paste- making it more tenacious. 
 
 In pas+ing paper on wood, first wet the paper all over with a 
 clean sponge dipped in cold water; spread the paste on the 
 wood, and lay on the paper while damp ; otherwise- 't --vill be 
 in wrinkles, when dry. 
 
RYE PAalE, ETC. 295 
 
 RYE PASTE. — For ver}'^ strong purposes, (wall paper, for 
 instance,) the paste should be made of rye-^our, with the addi- 
 tion of a little powdered rosin. 
 
 COLD PASTE. — This can be obtained at any time, when 
 it is not convenient to boil it, by keeping always in the house, 
 a bottle of gum arable water, made in the proportion of an 
 ounce of pulverized gum-arabic to a jill of water. Mix a little 
 flour with barely water enough to dissolve it, making it very 
 smooth, and free from lumps ; then add a little of the' solution 
 of gum-arabic, diluting it with more water, if necessary. The 
 gum will make this paste sufficiently adhesive for any common 
 purpose, without boiling. 
 
 COMMON GLUE. — Take a piece of glue, and melt it over 
 coals in a small earthen glue-pot. When it has come to a boil, 
 take it off, and apply it warm, by spreading it on with a small 
 brush, or a flat stick. If it congeals before you are done with 
 it, melt it again. While drying keep a string tied round the 
 article glued. Water is required in boiling glue. 
 
 RICE GLUE. — Mix together rice-flour and cold water, to a 
 thick paste, pressing out all the lum.ps with a spoon, and 
 making it very smooth. Then dilute it with a little more 
 water, (altogether, you may allow a jill of water to a table- 
 spoonful of rice-flour,) and boil it slowly, as long as you would 
 boil starch ; stirring it frequently. When done, set it to cool. 
 Use it for pasting fine paper, and for any little ornamental arti- 
 cles made of paste-board. It is a very nice and durable cement. 
 
 The water in which rice has been boiled for the table, will 
 aflbrd a cement for slight purposes. 
 
296 
 
 BED-CHAMBERS. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 It is customary to have the two principal bed-rooms furnished 
 equally well ; the second being usually appropriated to visiters. 
 Besides this, if the house is large, there may be other spare 
 bed-rooms, fitted up in a plainer manner. It is not a good 
 practice to keep articles belonging to the family, in the presses, 
 closets, or bureaus of the spare bed-chambers. As most of 
 these things have to be removed, (or, at least, ought to be,) 
 wheii the room is«(for more than a few days) occupied by a 
 visiter, it is better to place them permanently elsewhere. A 
 female giiest, particularly, from requiring more space for her 
 articles of dress, should have the entire use of all the receptacles 
 in her apartment ; also, no lady can feel secure of the privacy of 
 her room, if she knows that she is liable to be frequently dis- 
 turbed at unseasonable times, by members of the family com- 
 ing themselves, or sending servants to get things out of the 
 tflosets, drawers,. &c., of the spare chamber. 
 
 CHAIRS, SOFAS, &c. — In every chamber there is great 
 convenience in having a rocking-chair, a stuffed easy chair, or 
 something of the sort, and one or two footstools. Also, low 
 cnairs^ to sit on when sewing, or when washing your feet. 
 Large, deep sofas, with square pillows, are now considered 
 essential articles of furniture in btd-rooms. These sofas are 
 generally covered with furniture chintz, or dimity, or damasKed 
 
CII AMEER FURNITURE. 297 
 
 brown linen; and are very useful in case of illness, or to recline 
 on for an afternoon nap. IMany of them are made to contain a 
 frame and a double mattrass, which can be drawn out at night, 
 po as to furnish an extra bed, when necessary. Plain ones 
 may be had in Philadelphia as low as forty dollars. They 
 require great care in keeping clean, otherwise they may be 
 infested with insects, 
 
 A cheap substitute for a chamber-sofa is a long, broad settee 
 of painted wt)od, furnished with a mattrass and square cushions, 
 covered with chintz tied on with strings, and having a valance 
 in front. 
 
 The most convenient chairs for bed-rooms are of curled 
 maple, with cane seats ; but if the other furniture is elegant, 
 they will be considered too plain. In this case, handsome 
 painted and gilt chairs will be more in accordance, the colour 
 corresponding with that of the curtains. Mahogany chairs are 
 generally considered too heavy and cumbrous for a chamber. 
 
 Trunks and square wooden bonnet boxes may be made rather 
 ornamental than otherwise to a chamber, by fitting them up as 
 seats. To do this, have for the top of each trunk a brown 
 linen cushion, stuffed with moss or hair, and made exactly to 
 fit. For this cushion let there be an outside covering of chintz 
 or some other material, (as handsome as you please,) with a 
 binding, and a fringe or a frill all round, deep enough to conceal 
 the place or crack where the lid opens. Then have a valance 
 of the same, (either full or plain,) to nail, with small tacks, all 
 round the sides and ends of the trunk, and descending to the 
 floor. Fasten the cushion firmly to the top of the trunk, by 
 tacks driven through the binding. By drawing out the tacks 
 with a cl^w-hammer, the cushion and valance can be removeo 
 when it is necessary to wash them, and when the trunk is 
 wanted for travelling. We have seen an old champagne basket 
 
298 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 used in a bed-room as aTcceptacle for shoes ; and made quite 
 ornamental by being cushioned and valanced in the above 
 manner on the outside. 
 
 There are chamber ottomans, with the wooden frame maae 
 hollow inside, like a long box, for the purpose of containing 
 the bed linen, &c. They stand in the recesses, and have stuffed 
 seats and cushions, covered generally with chintz. 
 
 RECEPTACLES FOR DRESSES, &c.— In* building or 
 altering a house, it will be found an excellent plan to construct 
 a range of large closets (three in number) between the two 
 principal chambers on each floor; the central closet having two 
 doors, (one opening into the front room and one into the back,) 
 and two tiers of deep shelves. In summer, by throwing open 
 both these doors, you may have a fine draught of air through 
 the rooms. On the inside of each door let hooks be fixed for 
 hanging up dresses. Of the other two closets, one may belong 
 to each room ; or, if uniformity of doors is particularly desired, 
 the middle closet (being the largest) may be appropriated to 
 the occupants of one chamber, and the side closets to those of 
 the other. 
 
 A ward-robe, or commode, is an almost indispensable article 
 of furniture for a chamber, particularly if there is no large closet 
 or press. In spacious rooms occupied- by two persons, there 
 are frequently two commodes. Those are perhaps most con- 
 venient that have a tier of shelves on each side, and a space in 
 the middle, furnished with two rows of large brass or iron 
 hooks, on which to suspend dresses or coats ; the linen and 
 smaller articles to be laid on the shelves. 
 
 Exclusive of the large wardrobes that are tall enough to 
 contain dresses hanging up, there is a smaller sort, about the 
 size and height of a bureau, with four shelves instead of 
 
CHAMBER FURNITURE. 299 
 
 drawers, all enclosed by a two-leaved door, opening in front. 
 They stand on castors, and are made of mahogany or stained 
 wood, and have advantages over bureaus,. as they preclude the 
 trouble of pulling drawers in and out ; the whole being opened 
 by a door, one lock suffices for all. Every thing that you 
 would keep in a drawer can be laid just as conveniently on the 
 shelves of one of these low commodes. 
 
 There is frequently much trouble with the handles of bureau 
 drawers, particularly if they are of glass, as they are very apt 
 to come off in your hand. So, indeed, are the plated and brass 
 handles. Those of mahogany keep their places best, and have 
 been introduced very successfully on the handsomest bureaus. 
 Unless the top of a bureau is of marble, it is usual to cover it 
 with a white cloth, either of damask linen, or of dimity, fringed. 
 If a drawer is apt to stick in damp weather, the inconvenience 
 iray be remedied by nicely paring away with a knife a little 
 of the wood on the side edges. 
 
 Bandboxes are seldom used now, except for the convenience 
 of conveying a cap, bonnet, or dress to the house of a friend or 
 a milliner. They are rarely found among the baggage of a 
 genteel female traveller ; square wooden boxes, with locks, 
 keys, and handles, being substituted for them. These wooden 
 boxes are generally tall enough to contain a folded dress under 
 the bonnet or other millinery, and should be painted on the 
 outside. They will last many years, will bear exposure, and 
 can go outside with the resf of the baggage. Tall square 
 leather trunks are sometimes used for carrying bonnets, &c. 
 A paste-board bandbox ought to have a strong loop of twine^ 
 red tape, or galloon, passed through one side, large enough to 
 slip over the hand in carrying it. To secure the lid, bore two 
 holes in it near the edge, one on each side, and pass through 
 them strong pieces of string, each about a quarter of a yard in 
 
300 THE HOUSE BOO K. 
 
 length, fastened by a knot on the inside. Make two corres- 
 ponding holes near the upper edge of the bandbox itself, and 
 pass a similar string -through each of them. Then put on the 
 lid, and tie each pair of strings in a tight bow knot. There I 
 no better way of keeping a bandbox fast. 
 
 TOILET TABLES, MIRRORS, &c.— The most elegan 
 dressing tables are of mahogany, with marble tops, having at 
 the back a large mirror, with candle-branches or lamp-brackets 
 on each side, and furnished with drawers to hold all the conve- 
 niences of the toilet. Dressing tables of plain unpainted wood, 
 with white covers, and valances of muslin made full and deep, 
 and descending to the floor, are not yet quite out of use. For a 
 common bed-room,, a toilet cover of fine buff-dyed cotton cloth, 
 with a frill at the top to conceal the place where it is nailed on 
 to the table, and set off with a purple or dark-brown binding, 
 looks infinitely better than might be supposed ; and will appear 
 clean much longer than one of white muslin. The small 
 movable looking-glasses, standing on feet, are much out of 
 favour for dressing tables, as they scarcely show more than 
 your head, and are very easily upset. Instead of those, it is 
 now customary to fix a large glass upon the wall at the back 
 of the table or bureau ; suspending it by a double ribboh to a 
 strono- hook, and making the string long enough to allow the 
 glass to incline considerably forward, so as to give the persons 
 that look into it a better view of their figures. For seeing the 
 whole figure from head to foot, a cheval glass (also called a 
 Psyche) is now a very general and useful piece of furniture in 
 a handsome chamber. It is very large, stands on feet with 
 castors, and can be made to incline backward or forward, as is 
 most convenient. It has also on each side branches for lights. 
 In every chamber should be a second glass small and easiJv 
 
CHAMBER FURMTURE. 301 
 
 raoved, to take in your hand for the purpose of looking' at the 
 back of your head and neck, after dressing ; the large glass 
 oeing in front. This small back-glass -may be hung in a recess, 
 or over the washing-stand, at a convenient height for seeing 
 your teeth while cleaning them. 
 
 On the toilet table keep always your dressing-case, your 
 bottles of cologne, Florida water, &c., and a large pincushion, 
 filled with pins of different sizes, including some that are very 
 long and stout, for the purpose of pinning shawls. 
 
 The best pins are those with pewter heads, as they do not come 
 off, like the wire heads. In buying black pins, try several to 
 see if they have good points and go in smoothly ; as many of 
 them (particularly what they call the jet-black) are so rough and 
 blunt as to be useless. Those of a bluish tinge are preferable. 
 The little minikin pins are very useful for ribbons, frills, &c. 
 
 In building a large house, it is very customary to connect a 
 private dressing-room with each of the principal chambers. 
 This room ought to have a good light, and also a fire-place ; 
 and should of course contain whatever may be wanted for the 
 purposes of washing and dressing. But in most American 
 houses the business of the toilet is still performed in the sleep- 
 ing-rooms. 
 
 WASHING-STANDS, TABLES, &c.— The most elegant 
 washing-stands are of mahogany, with marble tops ; they gene- 
 rally having a closet underneath. To any washing-stand, (even 
 to the plain ones that are made simply in the form of a table, 
 with a drawer, and a shelf below,) a marble top is useful as well 
 as ornamental ; mahogany or stained wood becoming very soon 
 disfigured with wet and soap-stains. There should be sufficient 
 space on the top of the washing-stand for a large basin, a 
 large pitcher, a water-bottle that holds at least a quart, a 
 
 26 
 
302 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 glass tumbler and a china mug; and also space to ao 
 commodate the different china receptacles for soap, tooth 
 brushes, nail-brushes, &c. Under it or near it a deep foot 
 hath should be placed. These are either of white ware, or 
 to match the basin and pitchers. On the left side have a 
 wooden stand, (something like a circular stool,) to elevate 
 the slop-bucket about a foot from the floor, which otherwise 
 will be in danger of much splashing. A slop-bucket, for 
 receiving the water that has been used, is, or .should be, an 
 indispensable accompaniment to all washing stands. They are 
 sometimes of maple, with brass hoops ; but we think painted 
 tin slop-buckets far better than those of wood, as they can be 
 kept clean more easily, and are not so apt to acquire an unplea- 
 sant smell. On the left-hand of the washing-stand should be 
 placed the towel-horse, which may be of mahogany, maple, or 
 stained wood, having two bars across ; the upper bar being an 
 inch or two below the top, and the lower one about fourteen 
 inches farther down. If the second bar is placed too low, the 
 towel hung on it, even when doubled, will trail on the floor. 
 The feet of the towel-horse should be strong and heavy, that it 
 may not be easily overset. Towel-horses may be obtained at 
 a very .small cost, and no chamber should be without one, as 
 the paint of a chair will soon become much defaced by the 
 practice of hanging a wet towel over the back : so also will the 
 wall. No towel should be less than a yard long. They may 
 be of linen damask, thick bird's-eye diaper, or of white hucka- 
 back. The last is the best for common use ; and if of the first 
 quality, it wears better than any other towelling: its usual 
 price is twenty-five cents per yard. Thin, low-priced towelling 
 wears so badly that it is not worth buying ; and cotton towels 
 are not used by persons of genteel habits. Foot towels are 
 usually of (nick unbleached linen. 
 
B E D S T K A D S. 303 
 
 There are large, deep washing-stands, that contain inside, 
 the pitchers, basins, &c., and a broad, shallow slop-bucket, 
 and have a lid to open with hinges, which, when shut down, 
 conceals the whole, and makes it appear like a table. These 
 stands are used in libraries, in offices, and to place in a recess 
 of the passage, down stairs, for the convenience of washing 
 hands, without going above. 
 
 There are low wash-tables, for the convenien6e of washing 
 very young children. They are made of proper height for the 
 low chair on which the nurse sits, while she is performing 
 this office. They have a shelf beneath, to contain the pitcher ; 
 and in the top is cut a small hole for the soap-cup, and a large 
 one for the basin, which should be very capacious; so that 
 the baby, in its earliest infancy, may be immersed in it, and 
 when older, may be seated on the table, with its feet in the 
 water. 
 
 A table, to use when writing or sewing, is an indispensable 
 article of furniture to a chamber. Writing materials ought to 
 be kept in every bed-room, that they may be ready for use, 
 when wanted ; a work-box will not be omitted in an apartment 
 belonging to a lady. A hanging shelf. Tor books, is far better 
 than to lay them about the mantel-piece, or on the top of the 
 bureau. 
 
 BEDSTEADS. — In providing your chambers with bedsteads, 
 it is always best to purcTiase them all quite new ; otherwise, you 
 never can be certain of their being perfectly clean, and free from 
 insects which the approach of warm weather may bring out 
 For a large and handsomely furnished chamber, no bedsteaa 
 looks so well as the square, high post, with curtains. What 
 are called French low post bedsteads, are preferred by many 
 persons, who have an objection to curtains. We think, however 
 
304 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 (to say nothing of the dreary and comfortless appearance of a 
 curtainless bed, in cold weather, particularly when a sick per- 
 son is lying in it,) that the winter climate of most parts of 
 America is such as to render curtains highly desirable at that 
 season, to all who can conveniently procure them. It is not 
 necessary to draw them closely all round ; but if the heads of 
 the sleepers were always screened from the cold air of a cold 
 room, there would, perhaps, be fewer tooth-aches, rheumatic 
 pains, coughs, and sore-throats. Still, there is one very serious 
 objection to bed-curtains, in the rooms of children, or of any 
 persons that are not habitually careful ; the danger of their 
 being set on fire. When this accident does happen, it may 
 sometimes (if instantly perceived) be extinguished, by catch- 
 ing up the end of the curtain, and with both hands squeezing 
 and crumpling it down upon the burning part, so as to smother 
 or crush out the flame. 
 
 Unless the room is so small, that it cannot be fixed other- 
 wise, no bed should be placed with one side against the wall, 
 particularly in summer, as that position impedes the free 
 circulation of air round the sleeper, greatly increases the heat, 
 and seldom fails to produce insects. A room must indeed be 
 small that will not, by judicious arrangement, allow of some 
 space on both sides of the bed ; and even a little is better than 
 none. 
 
 What are called canopy beds are generally placed with one 
 side against the wall, that a beam or circular block may be 
 fixed in it, from which the curtains are to descend. This is 
 not necessary for canopy curtains, if the bedstead is made ac- 
 cording to a new and excellent French fashion, of a low post 
 oedstead, with two high poles directly opposite ; one rising 
 from the centre of the head-board, and one from the foot-board. 
 Both are connected at the top by a corresponding bar oi 
 
PUTTING UP BEDSTEADS. 305 
 
 horizontal pole, over which, the curtains are arranged by large, 
 movable brass rings. These curtains are in the form of a tent, 
 only that they hang full and open, both at the sides and at 
 the head and foot. They consist of four long straight pieces, 
 having three breadths in each. They are looped up, or tied at 
 the four knobs of the low posts; and when let down, and 
 closed, they descend to' the floor. The head only of this bed- 
 stead is against the wall. It is called the French double pole 
 bedstead. 
 
 TO PUT UP BEDSTEADS.— The windlass bedsteads, 
 that are now so much in use, are very easily put up. They are 
 in four parts ; all of which must be stood up together, held by 
 four persons, and closely fitted into each other at the corners. 
 Then the winch or stick that is sent with the bedstead must 
 be put into the hole, at one of the sides, and wrenched round 
 with a strong arm. This tightens the whole of the wood-work, 
 and nothing more is to be done but to lace the sacking tightly 
 over the pins. 
 
 To put up a high four-post bedstead, you must- have the 
 small iron instrument called a bed-key. Place the two head- 
 posts near that part of the wall where the bed is to stand, 
 and lay the foot-posts on the floor, at a proper distance below 
 The pieces should all have marks or numbers, to designate 
 those that match each other. Place each foot-post opposite to 
 its corresponding head-post. Next, lay the long or side-pieces 
 in their proper places, then the short or end-pieces that go at 
 the head and foot. Then put one long and one short screw at 
 each comer of the bedstead. *The assistance of four persons 
 will now be required, to rear up the four posts, and set in the 
 sides. Next, slip the head-board into the groves ; and then 
 
 proceed with the bed-key to turn and fasten the screws firmly 
 
 26* 
 
306 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 The four long screws are intended to screw into the sides, ami 
 the four short ones int6 the ends. The screw holes into which 
 they are inserted are under the little round brass plates, which 
 must be turned aside to get at them. Next, lace up the sack- 
 ing; to do which well, and to secure its knots firmly, will 
 require the strength of a man. Finally, get on the movable 
 wooden steps, (such as is used in all houses for putting up 
 and taking down upholstery,) and fix the four pieces of the top- 
 rail, by slipping the holes at the end of each, over the spikes 
 at the top of each bed-post. 
 
 If there is a straight cornice at the top of the whole, it is 
 best to put it on after the curtains are up. 
 
 If there is no permanent mark upon the diiferent pieces of a 
 bedstead, mark them yourself, with a pencil, previous to taking 
 them down, that you may know how to fit them when put up 
 again. 
 
 Tent bedsteads, with curved tops, are put up in a similar 
 manner, with a bed-key ; taking care to fix firmly the ribs that 
 support the roof. 
 
 In summer, a large bed is far more pleasant than a small 
 one ; as it enables you, when one part becomes warm, to remove 
 to the other, which is comparatively cool. 
 
 BED-CURTAINS.— These may be of chintz, damask, rich 
 silk, or broad-striped dimity. The last will, of course, bear 
 washing perfectly well, but will also require it once at least in 
 the course of the season ; and an opportunity of doing it should 
 be taken when the weather happens to be somewhat mild. 
 Chean aftd very well-looking curtains may be made of thick 
 domestic shirting muslin, dyed of a fine buif, with aronetta and 
 pot-ash, and trimmed with worsted fringe, or a binding of 
 purple, dark brown, dark green, or crimson ; to be ripoed olT 
 
BED-CURTAINS. 307 
 
 when w ashed, Avhich will not be necessary before spring. The 
 upper valance need not be made full. It will look very well 
 plain, cut into large deep scollops or Vandykes, the edges deco- 
 rated with coloured binding or fringe. Curtains for square or 
 high-post beds are frequently made in long, straight, full pieces, 
 without any drapery or festooning, running with rings on a 
 brass rod round the top of the bed. The foot-valance of a bed 
 should always hang full ; it is fixed by tacking the binding 
 with small nails along the frame of the bedstead. 
 
 The best sort of chintz curtains are generally lined with 
 coloured glazed muslin. This lining must be taken out and 
 renewed whenever the curtains are washed. 
 
 The bed-curtains and window-curtains should of course be 
 of the same material, and corresponding in form. Their colour 
 should contrast well with that of the wall, which in chambers 
 (as in all other rooms) will look best of a light or pale tint. 
 
 Curtains of figured or damasked brown linen, though not 
 handsome, are very lasting and economical ; and may be set 
 ofT with a bright coloured fringe or binding. 
 
 All curtains ought to be well shaken every day, and frequently 
 brushed between the folds with a hand-brush. To prevent the 
 dust from accumulating on the top or tester, cover it with sheets 
 of cartridge paper, (or very stout brown,) the edges laid over 
 each other. These will receive the dust which would other- 
 wise lodge and accumulate on the tester, and they can easily 
 be removed, brushed off, and returned to their places. To 
 make those more accessible that cover the middle part of the 
 tester, the edges of several sheets had best be pasted together 
 so as to form a large square. 
 
 In summer, after the curtains are taken down and put away, 
 it is well, on a high post bedstead, to have a tester and top- 
 valance of dimity or white muslin ; otherwise the bare posts 
 
308 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 and top-rail will look naked and ungainly. There should also 
 be a white foot-valance to correspond. 
 
 It is usual at the head of the bed, to have watch-pockets of 
 the same material as the curtains. If there are no curtains, the 
 watch-pockets may be of velvet or of buckskin. 
 
 By the side of a high bed it is customary to have steps for 
 the purpose of ascending it easily. Bed steps are generally of 
 mahogany, covered with Brussels carpeting. 
 
 BEDDING. — Many persons think it conducive to health to 
 sleep very hard. This is only the case with peculiar constitu- 
 tions. Generally speaking, most people will sleep more com- 
 fortably, and feel more refreshed afterwards, on a moderately 
 soft bed or mattrass. Even in summer, and in warm climates, 
 a mattrass should not be so hard as to have no elasticity. If 
 the mattrass is sufficiently thick to prevent the feather bed 
 beneath from rising or swelling around you, the proper end is 
 answered as far as health is in question; and certainly the 
 comfort is much greater than if all beneath you is so hard and 
 compact that you cannot but feel as if sleeping almost on a 
 floor of wood or stone ; as is often the case, when a thick, solid, 
 hair mattrass has nothing under it but one equally solid of 
 straw. We believe there are few grown persons who, during 
 the severity of an American winter, would really find their 
 health impaired by sleeping with the feather-bed on the top of 
 the mattrass ; and few that, in the summer, would find them 
 selves too warm by having a feather-bed, instead of a paillasse, 
 underneath a mattrass of moderate thickness. Domestics and 
 working people, when they sleep on very hard bedding, fre 
 quently complain of rising in the morning as tired as when they 
 went to bed, and of feeling as if they had not strength to go 
 
BEDDING. 309 
 
 about their work. Children, no doubt, suffer much from the 
 same cause. 
 
 Mattrasses of horse-hair are cooler than those of wool-. The 
 long- southern moss is frequently used as stuffing for mattrasses. 
 The mattrass should fit the bedstead exactly ; so also should 
 the bed. 
 
 Linen bed-ticking is far the best ; that of cotton stripe^. though 
 lowest in price, is eventually the most expensive, as it lasts 
 but a short time, and the feathers are continually coming throug'h 
 it. When a tick becomes so old and thin as not to retain the 
 feathers well, it is best to get a new one, as the daily loss of 
 feathers will soon materially diminish the si^ie of the bed. It 
 is well for the chambermaid to keep a paper bag, in which to 
 save the feathers that she finds on the floor. 
 
 Beds, bolsters, and pillows are not comfortable unless they 
 are large and full, and well stuffed with feathers ; it is a pitiful 
 economy to put in so small a quantity that th.ey become nearly 
 flat as soon as you lie down on them. Each bed should have 
 ♦wo pillows ; and it is well to have some extra ones in the 
 house, in case of illness. The bolsters ought to have white 
 linen cases, as well as the pillows. There is no real economy 
 in buying cotton sheets and pillow-cases, even for servants' 
 beds ; as cotton, besides being very uncomfortable in summer, 
 lasts but a short time ; and when it begins to get old, it tears 
 unexpectedly in all directions. Linen bedding is universal in 
 genteel families ; except when winter sheets of thick cotton 
 may be preferred, as somewhat warmer in very cold weather. 
 For servants' beds, Russia sheeting is the best and most durable. 
 For a large double bed, it is well to have each sheet three 
 yards .ong and two yards and a half wide, that there may be 
 plenty to tuck in, particularly if there is no bolster-case. To 
 save a little linen, sheets are often cnt out «o short and so nai 
 
310 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 row, that, as they can be tucked in nowhere, they keep then 
 places nowhere, and are uncomfortable all night. For a single 
 bed, the length must be the same as for a double one, but two 
 yards will be wide enough. . When a sheet that has been long 
 in use becomes thin in the middle, it may be turned by ripping 
 down the seam, and then sewing up the two outer selvages, 
 which will bring together the strongest and best part of each 
 breadth. All the bed-linen should be marked with the whole 
 name of the family; and each pair of sheets and pillow-cases 
 should have the same number or figure, so as to designate the 
 different sets. In making pillow-cases, -let them be large 
 enough to admit the pillow easily. They are frequently frilled 
 at the ends, and fastened with buttons. They look very white 
 and nice with an under-case of thick white muslin. " 
 
 Pillows stuffed with bits of clean paper, cut about half an 
 inch square, are said to be very soft and cool. Hop pillows 
 are sometimes recommended to invalids, or persons who sleep 
 badly. To repose comfortably on a square French pillow, 
 stuffed with hair, requires some practice. 
 
 Except in very cold climates, it will not be necessary to allot 
 more than three blankets to each bed ; beginning with one in 
 the autumn, and adding the second and the third as the weather 
 grows colder. The blankets should be larger every way than 
 the bed, to allow for tucking in, and for turning down at the 
 head. Blankets of the best quality will last many years. A^ 
 the close of spring they should always be washed before they 
 art put away. Where the winters are very severe, eider down 
 quilts and cotton comfortables are frequently used, in additior 
 to one or two blankets. 
 
 TO KEEP BLANKETS THROUGH THE SUMMER. 
 
 -— S; 'A %. ^^r^e coarse sheet on the floor. Fold up the blan- 
 
BED COVERS. 311 
 
 kets and place them on it, having sprinkled betvreen every fol(\ 
 either shreds of tobacco, or bits of camphor. Shavings of 
 Russia leather are also a remedy against moths. Having piled 
 the blankets smoothly, put the remainder of the sheet round 
 them and over them, and pin it up tightly in various places. 
 Then lay the whole in a large chest or in a dark closet. Let 
 them remain imopened all summer. In the autumn, after tho 
 warm weather is entirely over, have the blankets all brought 
 down on a fine dry day, and hang them out on lines to dispel 
 the scent of the tobacco, if you have used it as a preservative. 
 In putting away your blankets, always leave out a few, 
 (allowing one for each bed,) in case of a very cool night, such 
 as sometimes occurs in the summer season, and also that they 
 may be at hand to begin with, as soon as the warm weather 
 is over. 
 
 BED COVERS.— White Marseilles quilts keep clean much 
 longer than the knotted white counterpanes. They are not, 
 however, so durable ; as the surface of a Marseilles quilt, being 
 fine and thin, soon wears off. They may afterwards be covered 
 with an outside of fine, white, thick muslin, and quilted over 
 again. Patch-work quilts of old calico are only seen in inferior 
 chambers ; but they are well worth making for servants' beds. 
 The custom of buying new calico, to cut into various ingenious 
 figures, for what was called handsome patch-work, has become 
 obsolete. Quilts are now made entirely of the same sort of 
 dark calico or furniture chintz; the breadths being run together 
 in straight seams, stuffed with cotton, lined with plain white 
 or buff-dyed thick muslin, and quilted simply in diamonds, 
 shells, or waves. For a large double bed, a quilt or any other 
 cover should be three yards long, and about three yards 
 wide. It is usual to have a quilt Oi« bed-spread of the same 
 
312 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 chintz as the curtains. For very elegant beds, the covers are 
 ifpnerally of silk or damask, (also to match the curtains,) with 
 a silk lining, and a trimming of fringe to correspond. 
 
 Summer bed-covers are usually of furniture chintz or of 
 dimity, with a binding all round; and, if you choose, a cotton 
 fringe. They should have no lining, or they will be too warm 
 for the season. In many families, unlined spreads of furniture 
 chintz are used in winter as well as in summer, depending for 
 warmth on a .sufficiency of blankets. This we think a good 
 plan, as it enables you more easily to regulate the covering 
 according to the temperature of the weather. 
 
 The old-fashioned country coverlets, woven of coloured yarn, 
 are still used in country houses. They have the advantage of 
 being light as well as warm, are extremely durable, and wash 
 well. It is best to have little or no white in them. 
 
 WASHING A COLOURED QUILT.— Make, in a very 
 large tub, a suds of brown soap and water that is not very warm ; 
 adding a small tea-cupful of ox-gall to set the colours of the 
 calico. Put in the quilt, and wash it well. Afterwards wash 
 it through a second suds, and wring it very dry. Then rinse 
 it through three cold waters, wringing it very hard out of the 
 last. Hang it immediately out to dry, with the wrong side 
 outwards. An hour or two before evening, turn the right side 
 out. Take it in at sunset, and fold it up. Next morning, hang 
 U out again ; as one day (even in summer) is not sufficient to 
 dry a quilt thoroughly, the cotton with which it is stuffea 
 remaining damp a long time in the inside. Towards the end 
 of the second day bring it in, fold it up, and (if it is perfectly 
 <iry) put it away. A quilt cannot be ironed. It is best to 
 wash them late in the spring, when they are no longer required 
 for the beds ; they will then be ready for the cold weather. 
 
WASiiixNU (iuilt;3, etc. 313 
 
 In a similar manner you may wash a cliiiitz beJ-^prcu'l, in 
 two luke-warm lathers, (as hot water will certainly fade it,) 
 with two table-spoonfuls of ox-gall stirred into the first suds. 
 A spread (being single) will dry much sooner than a quilt, and 
 must be sprinkled and folded, and afterwards ironed on the 
 wrong side. In eacfi rinsing water put a spoonful of vinegar. 
 
 TO WASH A MARSEILLES QUILT, OR A WHITE 
 COUNTERPANE. — Put it to soak over-night in a large tub 
 with luke-warm water, (in which has been mixed about a quart 
 of lye,) and rub some brown soap on the quilt. Next morning, 
 wash it up and down a while in the soaking water ; then wring 
 it. out, and put it into a clean tub of warm soap-suds, and give 
 it a good washing. Then do the same through a second su^s, 
 (hotter than the first,) and wring it out very hard. Rinse it 
 through three cold waters ; adding to the last a little blue from 
 the indigo bag. Having wrung the counterpane very dry, hang 
 it out in the sun, wrong side outward ; taking it in towards 
 evening. Next day, hang it out again, with the right side out. 
 It may probably take three days to dry completely. It must 
 on no account be.put away with the slightest dampness about it. 
 
 In washing a quilt or counterpane, never use soda. 
 
 TO MAKE COTTON COMFORTABLES.— These are 
 
 soft thick quilts, used as substitutes for blankets, and laid under 
 the bed-spread. One of them is equal in warmth to three heavy 
 blankets ; and they are excellent in cold winters for persons 
 who like to sleep extremely warm. In chambers with fire, oi 
 in a room that has had a fire all day, a comfortable will gene- 
 rally be found too warm a covering, except in severe weather. 
 It is best to use them in cold apartments only. If the house 
 siiould be crowded with guests, so as to cause a scarcity of 
 
314 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 Ijeds, a thick comfortable may be found a convcnienl substitute 
 for a mattrass. 
 
 Early m the spring-, all the comfortables belonging to the 
 house should be washed and put away tiL winter. 
 
 A comfortable for a large or double bed ought to be three 
 yards long and three yards wide. You may make it of glazed 
 coloured muslin, (in which case it cannot be washed,) or of fur- 
 niture chintz, or cheap calico. It is best to have both the lining 
 and the outside of the same material. Having run the breadths 
 together, place it in a quilting-frame, and lay on the cotton bats 
 thickly and evenly, each one a very little over the edge of the 
 other. A comfortable of the above size will require three 
 pounds of carded cotton bats. It should be quilted in very large 
 diamonds, laid out with chalk and a long ruler, or with a cord 
 line . dipped in raw starch, wetted to a thin paste with cold 
 water. In quilting a comfortable, you need not attempt to take 
 close, short stitches. 
 
 In laying the cotton between the lining and the outside, leave 
 unshiffed about half a yard on each side and at the bottom; but 
 continue the stuffing quite up to the top or head of the comfort- 
 able. Let the thin part, however, be quilted ihe same as the 
 rest. By thus leaving a thin border round the sides and bottom, 
 you prevent the inconvenience so often objected to comfortables, 
 their tendency to slip off the bed; as the thin part can be easily 
 lucked in, so as to secure it perfectly from all danger of sliding 
 out of place. 
 
 TO MAKE A SILK QUILT— This is a light and con 
 venient article for a couch or for a child's crib, and will be 
 found extremely useful in a sick-room. It can be made very 
 economically out of two silk dresses, after the bodies are past 
 wear. Take the two skirts and (first removing with Wilming* 
 
MAKING SILK QUILTS, ETC. 315 
 
 * 
 
 ton clay any grease-spots that may be on them) rip them apart, 
 turn tliera, and sew them together again. You may add to the 
 length by taking the two sleeves, cutting them straight after 
 ripping them open, and joining them across the top of the 
 breadths. After all the silk has been turned and re-sewed, 
 sprinkle and fold it, and iron it on the wrong side, pressing tho 
 seams well. Take care that the irons are not very hot, or they 
 will discolour th<^ silk. Then put it into a quilting frame, and 
 lay in one thickness of the glazed cotton wadding in sheets. 
 Quilt it in large diamonds. 
 
 In most families, at least one quilt a year might be made of 
 left-off silk dresses, exclusive of those that may be converted 
 into petticoats. The skirts of two silk dresses w-ill make a 
 very good winter petticoat, interlining them with cotton wad- 
 ding. They should first be ripped apart, ironed smoothly, and 
 turned. If you have not a quilting-frame at hand, you may 
 quilt a petticoat on a large table, or by spreading it on a bed. 
 The most convenient way will be to quilt the breadths sepa- 
 rately, (each with its wadding and lining,) and then to sew 
 them together afterwards. They should be quilted in large 
 diamonds, with three or four straight rows along the bottom of 
 the petticoat, which ought afterwards to be bound with very 
 stout ribbon or broad galloon. 
 
 A wadded petticoat may be made without quilting, by tack- 
 ing or basting the sheets of wadding to the lining, as is done 
 in making a cloak or a pelisse. It should be basted with very 
 strong sewing-silk in long needlefuls ; taking care to tie firmly 
 the end of every fresh needleful to the end left of the last. 
 Run several straight rows along the bottom after you have put 
 on the Dutside silk. 
 
316 T H E II O U S E n O }v. 
 
 TO MAKE UP A BED.— As soon as the bed is vacated, 
 fasten back the curtains, (if there are any,) and let the clothes 
 be all taken off, and spread separately over the chairs; the pil- 
 lows and bolsters placed near the w^indows, and the bed turned 
 up towards the head, or pulled down at the foot, so as to expose 
 the sacking to the air. This should be done by the occupant 
 of the bed, immediately on rising, before she begins to wash 
 and dress. The sashes should be raised, (unless the weather 
 is rainy,) and the room ought to be thoroughly ventilated, for 
 at least an hour, even in the winter season. If the weather 
 is such, that rain or snow is likely to come in at the windows, 
 on quitting the room leave the door open, or at least a-jar, that 
 as much air may be admitted as possible. The atmosphere of 
 no apartment can be wholesome, unless it is well ventilated, at 
 least once a day. Besides which, a room continually closed, 
 and a bedstead, from which the bedding is not removed till the 
 moment before it is to be made up, will infallibly produce in- 
 sects. The sashes should be kept raised, while the bed is 
 making. 
 
 When the bed is sufficiently aired, turn it over, and with 
 both hands, take it by the middle, and shake it well in every 
 part, and smooth it evenly : taking care not to have it higher at 
 the foot, than at the head. If there is a mattrass above the 
 bed, turn up the lower half of the mattrass, and shake up that 
 part of the bed ; then turn down the upper half of the mattrass, 
 and shake and smooth the upper part of the bed ; and then fix 
 the mattrass evenly. Next, spread on the under sheet, tucking 
 it in all round under the sides of the mattrass ; so as to keep it 
 smooth and even, and to prevent its wrinkling, dragging, anc 
 getting out of place during the night. If it has a white linen 
 ease, shake up the bolster well, and lay it on after the imdei 
 sheet. If it has no case, draw np this sliret more to the head, 
 
MAKINGUPABED. 317 
 
 and tuck it well over the back of the bolster, but do not stretch 
 the under-sheet tightly, so as to drag the bolster down at night, 
 causing it to get beneath the shoulders of the sleeper. Lay it 
 easy, and pat it with your hands into the hollow between the 
 bolster and the bed. Next, spread on the upper-sheet, tucking 
 it well under at the bottom, lest it get loose and out of place 
 at night. You need not tuck it at the two sides, as you did 
 the under-sheet. Then, if there are blankets, lay them on 
 smoothly, securing them in place by tucking them in at the 
 bottom and at the lower corners. Next, put on the spread or 
 counterpane, taking care to have it smooth and even, and turn- 
 ing it down at the head with the upper-sheet. Then beat up 
 the pillows and lay therti in their places, the open ends 
 outwards. 
 
 Before you sweep the room, it will be well to cover the 
 whole of the bed with an old sheet, or something of the sort, 
 kept for the purpose in a closet. This will screen the bed from 
 the dust. 
 
 If the counterpane is white, fold it up on the wrong side, 
 and do not put it on the bed, till after the room is swept and 
 dusted. If there are curtains, keep them fastened back, and 
 take up the long ends of the falls, and place them on the bed, 
 that they may be out of the way while you are sweeping and 
 dusting. Also turn up the valance. After the room is swept, 
 the curtains should be well shaken, and tke dust brushed out 
 of the folds with a hand-brush. M least once a week, the 
 upper part ai^d the tester should be brushed thoroughly. You 
 can reach them, by standing on the bed-steps, (if there are 
 any,) or on the movable steps with which most houses are 
 provided, or by getting on a high chair. If dust is allowed to 
 accumulate in bed-curtains, it will cause bugs. 
 
 Of course, the bed must always be made before thp mom is 
 
318 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 swept. But if there is to be a fire in the room, that should be 
 kindled first, and the hearth put in order before any thing 
 else is done. 
 
 In some families, it is the custom to have in each chamber 
 a long deep tub painted white ; and a large stone pitcher of 
 warm water, is left every morning at the room door. By this 
 means, a tepid bath can be taken immediately on rising; and 
 this, to some constitutions, is more conducive to health than a 
 cold bath, particularly in warm weather. 
 
 CLEANING A BED-ROOM.— If a fire is to \m made in 
 the chamber, that, oi course, must be done the first thing, 
 taking up and carrying away the ashes, sweeping the hearth, 
 (which must afterwards be washed with a wet cloth,) and if 
 it is a coal-grate, putting up the blower. Next, if there is a 
 hearth-rug, or loose bed-side carpets, take them up, fold them, 
 and lay them in the passage or out in the balcony, till they can 
 be carried into the yard and shaken. Having washed your 
 hands, proceed to make the bed. It is well, instead of putting 
 on the counterpane at once, to fold it wrong side out, and lay 
 it in that manner on the bed, till the sweeping and dusting is 
 over. Cover the whole bed (bolster and pillows also) with a 
 large old sheet or something of the sort, kept for the purpose 
 of screening the bedding from dust while the room is cleaning. 
 Then, having broif^ht with you a large painted tin slop-bucket 
 with a close cover, empty all the slops, and replace the covet. 
 Throw a towel over the empty pitchers, &c., to keep the dusl 
 out of them. It will then be time to take down the blower 
 The next thing is to sweep the room, beginning under the bed, 
 which should be mov-ed out if you cannot otherwise make clean 
 the floor beneath. A damp mop is an excellent thing for collect- 
 ing and bringing out- the flue from under the bed, wardrobe, &c 
 
CLEANING BED- ROOMS. 310 
 
 Also, sweep carefully under the drawers, tables, &c., and behind 
 the trunks or boxes, leaving no dust or cobwebs in the corners 
 of the room. 
 
 If there are clippings, scraps of paper, or threads about the 
 carpet, pick them up before you begin to sweep. When you 
 have nearly done, open the door, at which you should have a 
 tin dust-pan and a hand-brush, and sweep into the pan all tlie 
 dust, &c., from the room. By the time you have carried away 
 the slop-bucket and the dust-pan, the loose dust that has been 
 raised by the broom will have settled. Then, with a soft dust- 
 ing-cloth, go first over the surbase, not forgetting the door-lock, 
 door-panels, and window-frames, and then over all the furniture ; 
 shaking your cloth frequently out of the window, the sash of 
 which should be open all the time you are doing the room. Shake 
 the curtains well ; and if there are Venetian blinds, dust the 
 slats as high as you can reach. Dust also the mantel-piece, 
 fire-irons, &c. For the looking-glass and pictures have a clean 
 cloth. When you have thoroughly dusted every thing in the 
 room, bring some warm water and two clean cloths, and wash 
 and wipe (inside and out) all the crockery belonging to the 
 apartment, beginning with the glasses and pitchers, and not 
 forgetting the receptacles for the soap and the tooth-brushes. 
 Then, having wiped the washing-stand, set every thing in its 
 place, and arrange nicely all the articles on the toilet, the table, 
 and the mantel-piece. Afterwards bring back and lay down 
 the loose carpets, spread the counterpane properly on the bed, 
 and arrange the curtains. Next, bring in a large clean bucket 
 of fresh water, (which should be furnished either with a tin 
 d'ppei 3r a spout,) £ind fill the pitchers and water-bottle. Hang 
 c^ean towels on the towel-horse, leaving there the wet one that 
 has been made use of that morning, spread out to dry. It may 
 be used during the day by the occupant of the chamber, for any 
 
320 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 purpose for which it might not be necessary to take a perfectly 
 clean towel. Besides the fine towels, there should be on the 
 horse a thick one for washing the feet. If it is summer, bow 
 the shutters or let down the blinds before you leave the 
 room. 
 
 In the evening, after tea, go round to all the rooms with your 
 ^lop-bucket, empty the things, and then bring fresh water to 
 replenish the pitchers. See that the horse is supplied with 
 clean towels, that the night-lights are in order, and the shutters 
 fastened, if in winter. 
 
 Some chambermaids have an absurd practice of filling the 
 pitchers with the fresh water before they make the bed and 
 sweep the room, instead of deferring it to the last. This should 
 be forbidden ; as, when done first, the surface of the fresh water 
 will be covered with flue and dust during the progress of the 
 bed-making and sweeping. 
 
 In some families it is the custom for the chambermaids to 
 have all the bed-rooms on hand at once ; first going round and 
 making all the beds ; then sweeping all the rooms ; then dust- 
 ing them all ; and lastly performing a tour with th^ fresh water 
 and clean towels. This is a most inconvenient practice ; as it 
 keeps all the chambers unfinished, and in disorder, nearly the 
 whole morning; so that not one of them can be occupied, when, 
 perhaps, there are persons in the house who are particularly 
 desirous of having possession of their rooms as soon as possible. 
 The best and most convenient way is completely to finish the 
 'vork of every room (including the fresh water and clean towels) 
 before you begin another. Also, if done separately, they are 
 usually cleaned with more care than when hurried through by 
 wholesale. If there are visiters in the house, let their chambers 
 be done first. The bed-room of an early riser may easily he 
 put in order before breakfast, if required. 
 
WARMING TEDS, ETC. 321 
 
 TO WARM A BED.— The most usual manner is witli n 
 long-handled brass warming-pan, filled with hot coals, and 
 moved all over the under sheet; the upper bed-clothes beino- 
 turned down to admit it. The heat produced by a warming- 
 pan is, however, very soon gone. A bed may be kept warm 
 much longer by heating a brick in the oven of a stove, wrapping 
 it up closely in a large, thick, old cloth, folded several times 
 round the brick to prevejit its burning the sheets, and putting 
 it mto the bed near the foot, seeing that it is not too hot. An- 
 other way of warmJng a person in bed is, to take a large black 
 bottle, fill it with hot water, cork it tightly, wrap a cloth round 
 it. and lay it against the soles of the feet; having ready a 
 second bottle of hot water to replace the first when it becomes 
 cool. 
 
 Square foot-covers of waddled silk, slightly quilted, are excel- 
 lent to wrap round the feet, if cold, when lying down. They 
 are still better if stuffed with eider-down. 
 
 There are little hand-baskets, lined with fur, to put the feet 
 in while riding in a carriage when the weather is very cold, or 
 while on a sleighing party. 
 
 Small portable foot-stoves of perforated tin, set in a wooden 
 frame, and containing a little iron pan to be filled with hot 
 coals, are excellent for keeping the feet warm -in winter, when 
 fitting still. They cost but a trifle, and no house should be 
 without them, particularly where wood is burnt. 
 
 TO DETECT DAMPNESS IN BEDS.— First have the 
 bed well warmed with a warming-pan. Then, the moment tlie 
 pan is taken out, introduce between the sheets an inverted glass 
 tumbler. After it has remained there a few minutes, withdraw 
 it. If the glass is found dry, you may go to bed without any 
 apprehensions of chill or rheumatism. If the glass is covers,*! 
 
322 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 with drops of wet or damp steam, your safest way will be to 
 take off the sheets and sleep between the blankets ; as you may 
 most probably be unable to obtain a second pair that are dryer 
 than the first. 
 
 Many persons have caught severe colds by sleeping on new 
 beds, the feathers of which were not sufficiently dry. Before 
 a new bed is slept on, it should be exposed several days to the 
 hot sun, or warmed in a stove-room. , 
 
 TO STOP THE CRACKS OF DOORS AND WIN- 
 DOWS. — Before the cold season commences, the window-% 
 sashes of the chambers should be made tight, and the doors 
 secured against the admission of currents of air when shut. 
 This will scarcely be necessary in a very well built house, 
 where the doors and windows all fit perfectly, and where the 
 wood-work, being well seasoned, has not shrunk. 
 
 Where there are large cracks at the bottom of the door, have 
 a thick slip of wood nailed on the floor outside. A similar slip 
 may be nailed along the side of the door-case where it opens 
 We have seen these laths covered with green baize sewed on 
 tightly, and the nails driven through the baize only. Also, 
 keep the key always in the lock, as a strong draught of air 
 rushes through an open key-hole. For inferior rooms you may 
 nail a stout slip of listing (the selvage of cloth) all along the 
 outside of the crack ; taking it off in the spring. We have 
 seen, in old-fashioned houses, gilt or morocco leather (pinked 
 or scolloped at the edge) tacked with gilt or brass nails round 
 the crack of a door ; and as it was considered ornamental as 
 well as useful, it was left there all summer. A long narrow 
 bag, made of carpeting or thick- cloth, and filled hard with sand, 
 will somewhat lessen the draught at the bottom of a door, if 
 laid on the floor outside 
 
NURSERIES. 323 
 
 For the outside doors, and those of the best rooms down 
 stairs, it is usual, to have a broad, thick, brass ledge fastened 
 to the floor, so as to screen the crack at the bottom of the door. 
 
 In the chamber of an invalid, it is well to have a tall, stand- 
 ing screen, placed just within the door, that when it is opened, 
 ihe rush of cold air may be felt less sensibly. 
 
 In a very severe climate, where it is thought best not to raise 
 the sashes during the winter, they may be made air-tight, by 
 pasting slips of thick paper over the cracks, fitting them neatly ; 
 or by nailing all round the window-frame, laths covered with 
 baize. Some persons stuff the cracks with wadding, put in 
 with the point of a knife or scissors. There is frequently, how- 
 ever, great difficulty in removing the wadding in the spring; 
 bits of it working in so far, and sticking in so fast, as to pre- 
 vent the sash from going up and dowm. A window-sash may 
 be kept very tight, by merely sticking into the cracks, several 
 little wedges of wood two or three inches long, about an inch and 
 a half wide, and shaved quite thin towards one of the ends. 
 Any boy can make them out of a slip of thin board. They 
 can be pulled out in a minute, when it is necessary to raise the 
 sash, and replaced as easily when it is shut down. 
 
 In the north, most of the windows are made with double 
 sashes, as preventives to draughts of cold air. 
 
 NURSERIES. — The children's apartment is too frequently 
 one of the least comfortable in the house, being either a damp 
 gloomy division of the basement story, or else a narrow room 
 in what is called the back building, excessively warm in sum- 
 mer, by reason of its having a low ceiling, and windows facing 
 the beams of the afternoon sun. It is important to the health 
 or all children, that the nursery should be large, airy, and 
 cheerful in its aspect ; and that it should be comfortably warm 
 
324 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 in winter, and cool in summer. K it opens into a balcony, so 
 much the better. If not, the children should be secured from 
 the danger of falling out, by iron bars placed across the lower 
 part of the windows. We have seen iron window-guards made 
 very ornamental, by being cast in the form of trellis-work, and 
 painted green. If there are no guards at the bottom, the sash 
 should only be opened by letting it down at the top. 
 
 At the head of the stair-case nearest to the nursery, we have 
 .seen a gate like that of a paling fence, with a fastening that 
 could not be opened by a small child ; and all the bars or laths 
 were perpendicular, to prevent the possibility of climbing on 
 them. 
 
 The nursery fender should be very high, and firmly fixed, so 
 as not to be easily removed or overset. If there is a close 
 stove let it be surrounded by a high screen of block tin. The 
 tables should have no sharp corners ; neither should there be 
 projecting shelves within reach of the children's heads; nor 
 an)r hooks or nails in the lower part of the wall. Have a suffi- 
 cient number of low chairs and stools, and a small low table, 
 on which the children can " make their feasts." There should 
 be a closet, in which all their play-things may be collected 
 and put away at night. Slight gaudy toys, that are merely 
 for show, aflford no amusement to children. They do not like 
 play-things that they cannot play with. A rag-doll, (as babies 
 of stuffed linen are most disrespectfully called,) with plain 
 clothes, that can be put on and taken off at pleasure, and 
 washed when dirty, and that can be thrown about without 
 danger of injury, will give far more enjoyment to a little girl, 
 than a splendid, but fragile effigy of wax or plaster, in habili- 
 ments of satin, and gauze, and spangles : very showy, but every 
 pa^t of the dress sewed on fast, and immovable. Miniature 
 articles of crockery, tin, and wooden ware; nine-pins; blocks 
 
riiE ATTICS. 3'!5 
 
 for building houses ; little carts ; wheelbarrows, &;c. ; are always 
 interesting and agreeable to children ; most of whom also take 
 great pleasure in a slate and pencil. Their slates should be 
 small, (of six. cent size, for instance,) and furnished with two 
 long twine strings, one for the pencil, and one for a bit of 
 sponge. We cannot but think, that if every child, at two years 
 old, was supplied with a slate and pencil, every child would 
 teach itself enough of drawing, to lay a good foundation for 
 the acquirement of that useful and delightful art, when culti- 
 vated at a later period. We have seen very intelligible sketches 
 on the slate, made by children of four and five years old ; and 
 in every instance, the same young persons have drawn admi- 
 rably, by the time they were fourteen or fifteen. 
 
 THE ATTICS. — The attic or upper rooms of a three story 
 house are generally appropriated to the domestics. It is well 
 that at least one of these rooms should have a fire place, in 
 which (where coal is burned) a small cheap grate may be set. 
 Upper rooms where wood is burned in an open fire-place, are 
 very apt to smoke, from the shortness of the distance to tb« 
 top of the chimney. Where there is no fire-place, there should 
 be a hole made in the chimney part of the wall, for the admis- 
 sion of a stove-pipe; as. a small close stove, either for wood or 
 coal, may be found necessary in case of sickness, or if the 
 room should chance to be for a while occupied by one of the 
 members of the family. In well-finished attics, there are fre- 
 quently shutters to the windows. If there are no shutters, the 
 sun-beams may be excluded, by thick blinds of lined wall 
 paper, or of stout brown linen, or even of strong domestic 
 cotton. 
 
 It is best to have a separate bed for each of the domestics. 
 Many a valuable hired woman has left her place, rather than 
 
326 THE HOUSE book. 
 
 be obliged to sleep in the same bed with another female that 
 was disagreeaole to her. Servant-women who have just come 
 from Europe, not unfrequently arrive a\ ith contagious diseases, 
 produced or fostered by the heat and dirtiness of tlie steerage ; 
 and a clean American female is justifiable in objecting to the 
 risk of having such a bed-fellow. 
 
 Painted low-post bedsteads are best for the rooms of the 
 domestics : who, if they had curtains, might very probably set 
 them on fire with their candles. What are called cot-bedsteads 
 are objectionable, on account of the difficulty in keeping them 
 free from bugs. The sheeting may be of strong unbleached 
 linen for summer, and unbleached domestic cotton in the 
 winter. One of the quilts called comfortables will give as 
 much warmth as three blankets. 
 
 In winter let there be a piece of carpet to lay down by the 
 side of each bed. In summer it w^ill not be necessary. 
 
 Each servant's room should be furnished with a washing- 
 table, a looking-glass, a table, and several chairs. In good houses 
 there are generally closets in the attics. If there are no closets, 
 let a few shelves be put up, and also some pegs or large hooks, 
 on which they may hang their clothes, with a curtain of thick 
 calico or check to screen them from the dust. 
 
 The walls of garret-rooms should always be white-washed ; 
 and it is well to have this done twice every summer. While 
 we urge the humanity as well as the policy of giving the ser- 
 vants of a family no real cause to complain of want of comfort 
 in their sleeping-rooms, (or in any thing else,) we also suggest 
 "the expediency of the mistress of the house seeing that the 
 attics are kept comfortable, by due attention being paid to their 
 cleanliness. The domestics should all be instructed to take 
 otf the bed-clothes and spread them out on chairs, early in the 
 morning, as soon as they are up ; putting the bolsters and 
 
THE ATTICS, ETC. - 327 
 
 pillows near the window, and raisin^ the sash before they leave 
 the room, so as to admit the fresh air. After the chambermaid 
 has finished her work below, she should go up and put the 
 attics in order, Sweeping and dusting them everyday. Insects 
 are frequently conveyed to the chambers of the family upon the 
 clothes of servants who come out of dirty beds and dirty garret- 
 ooms. Iron bedsteads are now much used in attics.' 
 
 If mouse-holes are found in the attics or in the loft above, 
 they should be immediately stopped up, and measures taken to 
 destroy the mice ; otherwise these troublesome little animals 
 will be very likely to find their way to the lower apartments. 
 
 In summer, the attics should be scrubbed at least once 
 a month, and the bedsteads taken down, examined, and 
 cleaned. 
 
 A bell from the room of the lady of the house to that of the 
 cook is indispensable, that she and the other domestics may 
 have notice when to rise in the morning. Many servants, 
 however, have the excellent habit (and it is easily acquired) 
 of waking of themselves, and rising of their own accord at 
 day-light. 
 
 SKYLIGHTS. — The sky-lights which are generally placed 
 on the roof to light the upper stair-case, should have very thick * 
 glas», each pane fitting exactly ; else they are liable to leak, 
 and to be broken by a violent rain or hail-storm. They are 
 sometimes made with a hood- or wooden covering, to be shut 
 down previous to a storm. Care should be taken that all the 
 wood-work of the sky-light (as well as the glass) fits tightly; 
 otherwise it will not only leak from rain, but from the melting 
 of the snow, when it thaws. As soon as the snow has ceased 
 falling, some one should go up and remove it at once (while it 
 is still soft) from the skylight, which will otherwise be entireJy 
 
328 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 darKened ; and, if the snow freezes on it, may probably remain 
 obscured for some weeks. 
 
 On handsome houses we frequently see a lantern or Belvidere, 
 instead of a common skylight; and they are ^uch better, as 
 the glass, standing perpendicularly, is in no more danger from 
 rain or snow than any of the other windows. 
 
 ENTRANCE HALL5J, &c.— The entry or hall should be 
 kept extremely clean. A neglected entry will give strangers 
 an unfavourable impression of the house. If there are two 
 doors, one within the other, so as to make a square space or 
 vestibule between, it is best to keep the outer or street door 
 unlocked, that visiters may at once be enabled to go in and 
 shelter themselves from the weather; while the inner door is 
 always kept fastened with a dead-latch, if you are apprehensive 
 of thieves. The bell being at the front door, the person who 
 rings it can go in, and wait in the vestibule till the servant 
 comes to admit him. It is well, in the vestibule, to have 
 always two chairs or a small settee. The floor (if not of 
 marble) is usually covered with oil-cloth ; and a foot-mat is of 
 course indispensable. 
 
 If the inner door is kept always fastened, each of the princi 
 pal members of the family should furnish themselves w^ith keys 
 for the dead-latch, getting them made by a locksmith after the 
 pattern of the first key. ** 
 
 In the passage, beyond the inner door, let the hat-rack and 
 umbrella-stand be placed, and near them a row of brass hooks, 
 fixed at a proper height for hanging up gentlemen's cloaks and 
 surtouts. The bes* hat-racks are those with a mirror. 
 
 There should be a settee or a few chairs in the entry, that 
 persons waiting there may liave an opportunity of sitting down. 
 In the recess near the stair-case have a table or shelf to hold 
 
EN I RAX CE HALLS, ETC. 320 
 
 the small chamber lamps in the evening, with a larger lamp 
 always burning, by which to light them when wanted. If the 
 drawing-rooms are up stairs, two hanging lamps will be neces- 
 sary, one to light the passage below, and one for that above. 
 
 As there are no pictures or curtains to be set off by the con 
 trast of a sober-coloured wall, the walls of the entry and staii 
 case may be painted pale blue, or light green, lemon yellow, 
 blossom colour, or cream colour. If the hall is wide and lignt, 
 it is usual to hang it with large maps on rollers; for instance, 
 one of the United States, one of the state you inhabit, one of 
 Europe, and one of the world. 
 
 Some persons, in summer, shade the fan-lights of the front 
 and back door with green paper cut to fit exactly, and fastened 
 -up with small headless tacks. These paper-screens are in- 
 tended to prevent the sun-beams from fading the carpet ; but 
 they darken the passage extremely. 
 
 The servant that attends the front door should have general 
 orders to go immediately, as soon as the bell rings. And on 
 opening the door, he is not to hide behind it when giving an 
 answer, as if ashamed to be seen. If decently dressed, (as he 
 always ought to be,) there is no cause for shame. He should give 
 an answer at once, without stopping first to stare at the stranger; 
 and without hesitating, as if coining a falsehood. The highly 
 reprehensible custom of ladies, when they did not wish to see 
 visiters, ordering their domestics to deny their being at home, 
 is now very properly exploded in good society. The servant 
 is directed to say that the ladies are engaged, or that " they do 
 not see company to-day." When this is understood, the domes- 
 tic that opens the door, is not to pause and say that " he will 
 go and see," but he will reply promptly as he has been told. 
 
 When the family are at home, and intend to receive their 
 friends, the servant in showing a lady or gentleman to the 
 
 28* 
 
330 TH'E HOUSE COOK. 
 
 drawing-room, should inquire the name of the visitor, and an 
 nounco it as he holds open the door, that those within may know 
 who is coming. If none of the family are in the drawing- 
 room, he is, on showing in the stranger, (a lady, for instance,) 
 to place a chair near the fire, if it is winter : or to invite her to 
 take a seat on the sofa, if it is summer. If the room is dark, 
 he is to open the shutters, or turn the hlinds, so as to give 
 sumcient light. He is then to inquire the name of the lady, 
 that he may inform those of the family, which of their friends 
 they may expect to see. When the lady is about to depart, he 
 will be at hand immediately after hearing the parlour-bell, to 
 go forward and open the street-door for her. 
 
 There should be mats at each of the passage doors, and at 
 each pailour door. For the latter, mats of shaggy wool, like 
 a sheep-skin, are much in use. The mats should all be taken 
 into the yard, and shaken and beaten every day, at the time the 
 entry is swept. 
 
 THE FRONT DOOR.— It would be well if all door-steps 
 were furnished with hand-rails. Without them, there is much 
 danger of slipping down in icy weather, or at night, or for per- 
 sons that are lame. In Philadelphia, it is the custom (and a 
 very good one) to wash them every day, (using warm watei 
 in winter,) and also the pavement before the house. A foot- 
 scraper is an indispensable appendage to a front door. As soon 
 as a snow has done falling, and before it has time to freeze, it 
 should be immediately cleared entirely aw^a}^ from the door- 
 steps, and pavement. It is then an easy task, but a very difli 
 cult one after it has frozen. To say nothing in regard to the 
 danger of persons slipping down on the ice, and being severely 
 injured, (of which there are instances every winter,) an icy 
 door-step or pavement has a wretched and slovenly appearance, 
 
THE FRONT DOOR. 331 
 
 gives a mean aspect to the house, and is altogether inexcusable; 
 tor if you have not a man-servant to clear it away with a spade 
 or large shovel, you can get it done for a trifle by the poor men 
 who go about for that purpose after a snow, and to whom such 
 a job is frequently an act of charity. We have seen stout 
 little boys, the sons of gentlemen, find great pleasure and good 
 exercise in shovelling the snow from the door in a bright win- 
 ter morning. Also, let the pavement and steps at the back- 
 door be cleared from the snow as soon as possible. If, how- 
 ever, the snow has been allowed to freeze on these places, keep 
 the ice always well covered with ashes, or sprinkle salt on it. 
 Every winter there are limbs broken, and lives endangered, 
 from falling on icy pavements or frozen door-steps; accidents 
 that would never happen, if every citizen did his duty in keep- 
 ing his own premises free from ice, and if the public bodies 
 were equally vigilant in having the snow immediately cleared 
 away from the vicinity of the public buildings. 
 
 If obliged to walk on snow or ice : carpet moccasins are ex- 
 cellent preventives from slipping; and so are broad-soled India- 
 rubber shoes, of the thick old fashioned sort. 
 
 Just within the front door, have always a large mat to wipe 
 the mud or dust from the feet. We have seen, in addition, a 
 large fool-brush, half a yard square, of short, stiff bristles, set 
 in a heavy wooden frame, and placed near the mat. 
 
 If you live in a handsome house, and have lamps at the 
 front door-step, it will not only add much to the convenience 
 of those who go in and out, but also be a great security against 
 thieves, to have these lamps lighted every night, and not merely 
 w^hen you expect company. No robber will attempt to force 
 his way into a house, if the front is well lighted all the time; 
 and the additional expense of oil will not be felt by any family 
 
332 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 that can afford to reside in an elegant mansion, containing 
 valuable plate and costly articles of furniture. 
 
 There is great convenience in having in a front door a slit 
 for the reception of newspapers, letters, &c. This aperture 
 should be perpendicular, (not horizontal, according to the old 
 custom,) and its best place is just above the handle of the lock. 
 Over it should be placed a movable brass or silver-plated cover, 
 to be slipped to one side when a paper is thrown in, and 
 replaced. This cover, if handsome, *will make the slit rather 
 ornamental than otherwise. 
 
 No private dwelling should be without a name-plate on the 
 door. The want of one frequently causes much inconvenience 
 to strangers, particularly in a row of houses that are all alike, 
 and in streets whose similarity is so great as in Phila- 
 delphia. 
 
 BELLS. — No room should be without a bell ; as there is 
 no part of the house in which a bell may not be useful, particu- 
 larly in case of accidents, or of persons being taken suddenly 
 ill in the night. It would be a good custom, in large private 
 houses, to have the rooms and bells numbered, as in hotels. 
 Much trouble may be spared to the domestics by establishing 
 different modes of ringing the bell, so as to apprize them of 
 what is wanted before they come up stairs. For instance, let 
 it be understood that if a servant is to come for the purpose of 
 receiving a message or an order, the bell is to be pulled o/jce .• 
 and if fuel is wanted, let it be pulled twice.- if lights, three times : 
 if water, four times. In some families the manner of rinofino- 
 the bell is so regulated, as to denote, not the thing, but the 
 servant that is wanted : as, one ring for the waiting-marn ; two 
 for the boy ; three for the chambermaid, &c. 
 . The handle of the front-door bell shmild be placed low, so 
 
DOOR-LOCKS, ETC. 33.'J 
 
 as not to be out of the reach of a child. The bell itself shoulJ 
 be large, and loud enough to be heard in any part of the house. 
 In langing it, let the wire go along as straight as possible; for 
 bends and turns make it hard to pull effectively, and frequently 
 cause it to be broken in the effort. We have known houses 
 into which itwas very difficult to obtain admittance, on acccuRt 
 of the inefficiency of the door-bell, or the almost impossibility 
 of pulling it so as to sound ; the visiters being not unfrequently 
 obliged to give up the attempt and go away, in despair of being 
 heard by any one. 
 
 Brass knockers are now considered old-fashioned ; but they 
 have at least the advantage of being easily sounded, and never 
 getting out of order. 
 
 DOOR-LOCKS. — There is no economy in finishing a house 
 with door-locks of inferior price and quality ; as they are so 
 often out of order, that the frequent expense of having them 
 repaired soon becomes greater than would have been the addi- 
 tional cost of having good ones at first. Brass locks and keys 
 are the best, and therefore the most economical ; a rule that is 
 good in nearly every thing. It is well to have all the locks 
 and keys engraved in corresponding figures, that the exact key 
 of every lock may be known at once; key No. 3 belonging, of 
 course, to lock No. 3. If the number is marked on a little round 
 piece of brass attached to the key, do not have the edge of the 
 brass ornamented by jagging, as is sometimes done; for the 
 points or scollops are very inconvenient, and hurt the hand 
 whenever the key is applied to the lock. 
 
 When the hinges of a door begin to creak, rub them well 
 with lamp-oil or with soft soap. 
 
 The practice of putting heavy weignts to a door, for the pui 
 pose of causing it to shut immediately of itself, is not a good 
 
334 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 one ; for (to say nothing of the loud and disagreeable noise it 
 occasions) very bad accidents have happened to children, from 
 being caught in a door while closing so rapidly that they could 
 not escape from h in time. We have known a tea-waiter with 
 all its china demolished, by the person that carried it being 
 unable to pass wdth sufficient quickness when the door closed, 
 with a weight. 
 
 CHIMNEYS. — Smoky chimneys are intolerable antidotes 
 to comfort, and therefore care should be taken to construct them 
 otherwise. Perpendicular flues, that go up quite straight, are 
 much more apt to smoke than those that are zigzag, or have 
 bends or elbows in them. The longer the chimney, the better 
 the draught ; for which reason fire-places in the upper story 
 will be frequently incommoded with smoke, while those farther 
 dow^n are entirely free from it. In two-story structures, .the 
 chimneys should be very tall, lest their draught be overpowered 
 by adjoining buildings that are hig^^er. This is sometimes the 
 case, even in a three-story house, when one of four stories is 
 erected beside it. The remedy then is to raise the chimneys 
 of the lowest house, or to put pots or cowls on them. Two 
 separate flues in the same chimney should have no communi- 
 cation with each other before they reach the top ; ottierwise 
 one of them will be sure to smoke. It is best to narrow the 
 aperture at the top of the chimney, that there may be less space 
 for the wind or for damp air to rush down the flue. Also, 
 chimneys (those of kitchens jrarticularly) sometimes smoke 
 from having the aperture large in the extreme at the bottom. 
 The smoking of a large fire-place may be sometimes partially 
 remedied by a piece of sheet iron about the depth of eight, ten, 
 or twelve inches, nailed along the whole front of the chimney- 
 piece. 
 
C " ' V N E Y s. 335 
 
 FLOORS. — In building- or new-modelling a house let the 
 floors be made of wood that is very well seasoned, otherwise 
 they will shrink from the walls : leaving large cracks round 
 the surbase to become places of egress and insfrzas for cock- 
 roaches and mice. It is well to have all the lioors perfectly 
 level on each story — it being inconvenient for children, and for 
 servants carrying things, to have a step or two to go up or 
 down in passing from room to room. 
 
 When they are not to be carpeted, it is an excellent plan to 
 have the floors painted ; as it preserves the wood, fills up the 
 cracks, and saves much hard-scrubbing. White or lead colour 
 is best. The strip of floor at the two sides of the entry and 
 stair-carpet looks very well painted white ; and instead of 
 scrubbing, it need only be washed with a wet cloth. 
 
 DAMP WALLS. — If a new house is finished in the autumn 
 it is not prudent for the family to remove into it till late in the 
 spring, particularly if it is built of stone or brick. The walls 
 require a long time to dry thoroughly, and the general humi- 
 dity diffused through the rooms by the dampness of new plas- 
 tering has been found in many instances sadly deleterious to 
 the health of some of the occupants, either by producing almost 
 immediate rheumatism, or laying the foundation of pulmonary 
 complaints that ended fatally. It will be well to have the 
 grates and stoves set early in the autumn, and a fire made up 
 once a day in each of them throughout the winter : some per- 
 son going daily to the empty house to attend to them. 
 
 The expense of these fires will be amply compensated by- 
 the confidence of security from damp, with which you may 
 take possession of your new house, when the spring has set in 
 
liS5 
 
 HOUSE-CLEANING, &c. 
 
 PREPARATIONS. 
 
 In some families there is no g-eneral house-cleaning at stated 
 periods, but the rooms are scrubbed, white-washed, &c., one 
 at a time, as may be most convenient. But the usual custom 
 IT America is to have the house completely cleaned from top 
 bottom twice a year ; late in the spring and early in the 
 autumn. As the temperature of the season varies in different 
 oarts of the Union, it is a good rule not to commence house- 
 jleaning in the spring till the trees are all in full leaf; but to 
 oegin it in autumn as soon as the leaves become tinged with 
 brown ; having it entirely over before the 20th of September ; 
 at which time the equinoctial rains may be expected, fire will 
 be necessary, and the house and furniture ought no longer to 
 appear in the guise of summer. But at no season should 
 house-cleaning be commenced when there is a prospect of bad 
 weather. And the whole business may be deferred or antici- 
 pated a week or more, if there is a prospect of the master of 
 the family having business to take him from home at the period 
 so uncomfortable to all gentlemen. We would advise him, 
 however, before he goes, to put his library-table in order him- 
 self, and to lock up (taking the key away with him) all his 
 papers, &c. 
 
 Besides the assistance of your own domestics, you will fmd 
 it necessary to employ at least three other persons ; a white- 
 washer, a scrubber, and a man to take charge of the carp • 
 
HOUSE-CLEANING. 337 
 
 Vt/u should bespeak their services a week or two beforehand, 
 as at the usual house-cleaning seasons they are much in demand, 
 and you may be disappointed in obtaining them. It may be 
 well to make a stipulation with them that they are not to under- 
 take the white-washing or cleaning of another house at the 
 same time with yours ; a practice that is very common with 
 them, rather than lose a job. The consequence is, that after 
 doing a day's work (or perhaps only a morning's work) at your 
 house, they will go off to another and work there aw^hile;. you, 
 in the mean time, seeing nothing of them all the afternoon, or 
 perhaps during the whole of the next day, to your great disap 
 pointment and mconvenience. 
 
 The cook is never required to assist in house-cleaning ; as 
 at that time she will have enough to do in preparing food for 
 an additional number of persons, and in clearing things away 
 after them. They should all have an early and substantial 
 breakfast, and a luncheon between breakfast and dinner ; they 
 will work the better for it. And give them their tea before 
 they go home in the evening. 
 
 The first thing is to remove most of the furniture from the 
 rooms ; the next is to take up the carpets. This will be done 
 by the man you have engaged to attend to them, and by the 
 assistants of his own that he will bring with him. In Phila- 
 delphia it is easy to procure a coloured man who, for about five 
 dollars, will undertake all the carpets of a large house. He 
 will bring a cart, into which he will put them all, after he has 
 taken them from the floors and folded them loosely ; and he 
 jfiU be provided with carpet-sticks, brooms, and whatever ia 
 necessary, including men to help him. Having taken the 
 carpets to some one of the vacant lots in the skirts of the city, 
 he will make them perfectly clean, by shaking and beating 
 
 them first, and then laying them on the grass and sweepmg 
 
 29 
 
338 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 them. He will then fold them neatly, and bring them home 
 .n his cart, ready to be put away, if they are not to be in use 
 during the summer. It is well to give him, before he goes out 
 with the carpets, a quantity of tobacco to lay among the folds, 
 or a quarter of a dollar to buy some for the purpose. 
 
 As soon as the carpets are gone, sprinkle the floors 
 well, and sweep them twice over ; as the first sweeping will 
 only take off what is called the rough dirt. The looking-glasses, 
 pictures, &c., should be taken down, dusted clean, and then 
 laid upon their faces on the beds, or on large tables in the 
 centre of the drawing-rooms, covering them with a sheet or 
 blanket. The lamps, branches, vases, and all the ornamental 
 articles belonging to the mantel-piece, centre-table, and pier- 
 tables, had best be collected all into one room, and cleaned 
 while there by some careful person. 
 
 WHITE- WASHING.— The white-washing and scrubbing 
 should always be commenced in the upper story, descending 
 by degrees ; the stair-case being done last. In a new house, 
 no wall should on any account be white-washed or painted till 
 after the plastering has been dry at least a year. 
 
 To make white-wash, put lumps of quick-lime into a bucket 
 of cold water, and stir it about till it is all dissolved and mixed. 
 It should be about as thick as cream. A pint of common white 
 varnish, (which can be procured at a cabinet-maker's for a 
 trifle,) mixed in a bucket of white-wash, will make it stick like 
 paint. Instead of water to mix the lime with, skim milk 
 (which must be perfectly sweet) will make the white-wash 
 very white and smooth, and prevent it rubbing off easily. 
 White-wash is put on with a very long-handled brush, made 
 for the purpose ; and it should be spread thinly, smoothly, and 
 evenly. When it is quite, dry, it must be gone over with a 
 
HOrSE-CLEANlNC." 339 
 
 secona coat ; and if the wall has previously been very dirty, 
 or coloured with yellow ochre, a third coat of white-wash may 
 be necessary. For cei^ngs, instead of the common white-wash, 
 it is best to give them a coat of what is called Paris white, (to 
 be obtained at the paint-stores,) mixed with water. 
 
 All the closets should be cleared out, and their walls white- 
 vashed, and the paint of the shelves and doors cleaned. 
 
 CLEANING PAINT OR WAINSCOTTING.—Have 
 
 ;eady two buckets of water, some hard soap, a flannel, a soft 
 linen cloth, and some old, soft, linen towels. Paint will come 
 off if cleaned with soft soap, pearl-ash, sand, or a scrubbing-- 
 brush. In one bucket, rub the soap in the water till it makes 
 a light suds, dip in the flannel, and with it rub the paint well. 
 Then, as you go along, rinse off the soap with the soft cloth 
 dipped in the other bucket of water, and dry, as you proceed, 
 with the old towels ; hanging them to dry in the window as 
 they become wet. In this manner clean the doors, (on both 
 sides,) the window-frames, shutters, and whatever painted 
 wood-work or wainscotting may be about the room ; using the 
 movable steps, when necessary. 
 
 If you find an ink-stain on the paint, wipe it with the wet 
 corner of a cloth dipped in oxalic acid, (either in powder or 
 dissolved.) This will remove the ink. Then, in a few minutes, 
 wash off the oxalic acid with an old towel and clean water. 
 If the paint is white, no trace of either the ink or the acid will 
 be left. If it is coloured paint, rub the place with some harts- 
 horn and water, and let it dry. The same application will take 
 ink out of a floor, or remove its stain from a mahogany 
 table, or from a carpet; the hartshorn and water restormg 
 the colour that has been faded by the oxalic acid in expelling 
 the ink. 
 
340 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 It is best to clean the paint directly after the white-washings, 
 and before the windows are washed. 
 
 WINDOW WASHING.— Having taken down the curtaina 
 or blinds, wash the outside of the windows, raising the sashes, 
 and throwing against them cold water from a tin mug; looking 
 out first, to see that no person is passing below. For the inside, 
 take a sponge dipped in luke-warm water, and rub each pane 
 of glass till quite clean ; finishing with a soft linen cloth. For 
 the best windows, after washing the glass with luke-warm 
 water, (as above,) rub every pane with a buckskin dipped in 
 finely-powdered whiting, or prepared chalk ; and then wipe it 
 off with a soft linen, and finish with a silk handkerchief. This 
 will make good glass look beautifully. To reach the top in 
 cleaning the inside of windows, you must stand on the movable 
 steps. If there are Venetian shutters, brush or wipe them well 
 between all the slats. If there are Venetian blinds, see that 
 they are in good order before they are put up for the summer ; 
 and, if necessary, have them re-painted, and the cords re- 
 newed. 
 
 Many families are provided with platforms or stages,, like 
 those used by house-painters, to be fixed outside of the win 
 dows when cleaning. 
 
 CLEANING CHAIRS.— Painted chairs should never be 
 scrubbed, as it takes off the paint. It is sufficient to wipe them 
 well with a flannel dipped in luke-warm water, and afterward* 
 with a dry cloth. If there is gilding on the chairs, do not wet 
 them at all, but wipe them with a dry soft cloth. Chairs of 
 "burled maple may be washed with a flannel and luke-w arm 
 soap-suds, then rinsed with a cloth dipped in cold water, and 
 then finished with a dry cloth. 
 
HOUSE-CLEANING. 341 
 
 Directions for cleaning other articles of furniture, will be 
 found in preceding parts of this book. 
 
 SCRUBBING FLOORS— After the white-washing, paint- 
 cleaning, and window-washing of each room has been com- 
 pleted, let the floor be scrubbed ; first seeing that it has been 
 well swept. For this purpose, have a small tub or bucket of 
 warm water ; an old saucer to hold a piece of brown soap, a 
 large, thick tow-linen floor-cloth and a long-handled scrubbing 
 brush. Dip the whole of the floor-cloth into the water, and 
 with it wet a portion of the floor. Next, rub some soap on the 
 bristles of the brush, and scrub hard all over the wet place. 
 Then dip your cloth into the water, and with it wash the suds 
 off the floor. Wring the cloth, wet it again, and wipe the 
 floor with it a second time. Lastly, wash the cloth about in the 
 water, wring it as dry as possible, and give the floor a last and 
 hard wiping with it. Afterwards go on to the next part of the 
 floor, wet it, scrub it, wipe it three times, and proceed in the 
 same manner, a piece at a time, till you have gone over the 
 whole ; changing the dirty water for clean, whenever you find 
 t necessary. For a large room, fresh warm water will be re- 
 quired four or five times in the course of the scrubbing. 
 
 When the floor has been scrubbed, leave the sashes raised 
 while it IS drying. 
 
 For scouring common floors that are very dirty, have by you 
 an old tin pan with some gray sand in it ; and after soaping the 
 brush, rub on it some sand also. 
 
 In scrubbing the stairs, commence at the top, and coma 
 gradually downwards ; doing one step at a time, and finishing 
 each, before you begin the next. Use for the stairs a hand- 
 brush, instead of a large one with a long handle. You will 
 
 29* 
 
84^ THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 require clean water at least once for Bvery flight of stairs. Fo 
 the kitchen-stairs, you may use sand as well as soap. 
 
 Before the steps of the staircase are scrubbed, the painted 
 part of the bannisters should be cleaned. First sweep them 
 well with a bannister-brush, getting all the dust thoroughly out 
 from between the rails. Then wash them with soap and flannel 
 and luke-warm water, rinsed off with plain water, and dried 
 with a linen cloth. The mahogany part must be cleaned in 
 the same manner as your other mahogany. 
 
 FINISHING THE HOUSE- CLEANING.— A house- 
 cleaning generally finishes with the kitchen, collar, kitchen- 
 staircase, and yard. The closets in the kitchen should be all 
 cleared out, white-washed, and scrubbed. So also should the 
 dresser shelves and drawers, the tables, &c. The tin-ware, 
 iron-ware, and all the utensils belonging to the kitchen and 
 cellar, should have a complete scouring; though, of course, 
 they ought to be kept clean at all times. If any entirely use- 
 less rubbish has been allowed to accumulate, let it be burnt, 
 rather than occupy space to no purpose. 
 
 After the spring house-cleaning, (which, east of New York, 
 had best be deferred till June, or till the damp, chilly weather 
 seems entirely over for the season,) let the fire-place in one of 
 the parlours be so arranged, that a fire can be made up there 
 if necessary. 
 
 See that the curtains, carpets, and any articles of furniture 
 that may not be wanted during the summer, are put carefully 
 away. 
 
 Let all the books be removed from the shelves, well dusted, 
 and regularly arranged. 
 
 Previous to the autumn house-cleaning, let all the chimneys 
 DC swept; at least, all those in which wood is burned. It will 
 
HOUSE-CLE ANINO. 343 
 
 not be necessary to put up your winter curtai/is before 
 November. 
 
 At each house-cleaning, let all the bedsteads be taken apart, 
 examined, and the joints washed with cold soap suds. 
 
 If your house requires painting, papering-, or other repairs, 
 have them done just before the cleaning time. Previous to 
 replacing the furniture in your rooms, let every thing be mended 
 that requires it. 
 
 TO REMOVE THE SMELL OF PAINT.— Take three 
 or four broad tubs, (such, for instance, as hold about eight 
 gallons,) fill them with cold water, and put into each an ounce 
 of vitriolic acid, which you can obtain from a druggist. Place 
 these tubs near the wainscot, in a newly painted room. This 
 water will absorb and retain the effluvia of the paint. Next 
 day, fill the tubs with fresh water, and add to each, another 
 ounce of vitriolic acid. Repeat this a third day, and on the 
 fourth, the smell of the paint will not be perceptible. 
 
 Raw onions, sliced, and set on plates about a newly painted 
 room, are said to take away the smell of paint ; or rather, w^e 
 suppose, to change it for their own ; which, certainly, has the 
 advantage of not being unwholsome, though to most persons 
 far from agreeable. The sliced onions should be every day re- 
 placed with fresh ones, till after the paint has entirely dried, 
 and its smell is quite gone. The onions that have been stand- 
 ing in the atmosphere of the paint, should be thrown into the 
 fire, and destroyed at once ; as if eaten, they would be poisonous. 
 
 TO TAKE CARE OF FURNITURE WHEN THE 
 HOUSE IS REPAIRING.— It is not always necessary, on 
 these occasions, to remove or pack away the furniture, parti- 
 cularly if the rooms are large. Ha ving taken up the carpets, 
 
344 THE HOUSE book. 
 
 and had the floors swept, place the tables, and sofas, and largest 
 pieces of furniture in the centre of the room, building or arrang- 
 ing upon them and round them, all the other articles, so as to 
 occupy as little space as possible, and be perfectly safe from 
 injury. Cover the entire stack with old quilts sewed together, 
 oi with your worst carpets, put round and over the whole, so as 
 to conceal every article; and then secure all, by sewing to- 
 gether* as may be most convenient, the edges of the carpeting. 
 
 PREPARING ROOMS FOR SUMMER.^In some fami- 
 lies, the carpets are replaced on the floors, after the spring 
 house-cleaning, and kept down all summer ; and no change is 
 made in th^ furniture, except to put away the curtains. In 
 other houses, matting is substituted for carpeting : the sofas, 
 ottomans, and chair cushions are covered with chintz cases ; 
 and all the gilded articles are screened from the flies, by 
 envelopes of muslin, gauze, or tissue paper. Gauze, we con- 
 sider the worst sort of covering, as it is very apt to split, its 
 texture is so open that it admits the dust, and it only lasts one 
 season. Low-priced muslin dyed yellow with turmeric and 
 milk, is much better, and may be used for the same purpose for 
 two or three summers. Tissue paper is still more impervious 
 to dust, and makes a nice and very cheap covering. We have 
 seen green tissue paper cut out into large jagged leaves, laid 
 closely over each other, so as to cover completely the gilt 
 frames of mirrors and pictures, and looking like a thick mass 
 of foliage all round. The covering on frames must be secured 
 losely with small pins : those over lamps, chandeliers, &c., 
 should be tied on with cheap ribbon of the same colour. Of 
 course, the things must all be well dusted before the covers 
 aie put on. 
 
 Where the flies are not particularly numerous, it is best to 
 
PREPARING FOR SUMMER. 345 
 
 .leave the ornamental furniture without covering during the 
 summer; as, with all the care you can take, dust will get under 
 the covers, damp ifJzV/ penetrate, and pins will scratch the gild- 
 ing ; so that, on the whole, what is gained by excluding the 
 flies is lost by the general dinginess which they will contract 
 from dust and dampness lodging all summer beneath the 
 covers. 
 
 If the rooms are occupied as usual during the summer, it is 
 well to have handsome chintz covers for the damask or cloth 
 furniture. But if the family remove into the country, and the 
 best apartments in the town-house are little used during their 
 absence, the covers may be of stout brown linen. Before they 
 are fastened on, if the sofas, cushions, &c., are of cloth, or of 
 worsted damask, let some crumbled camphor be introduced 
 between; otherwise the moths may attack them under the 
 covers. They should also be occasionally examined during - 
 the summer, and replenished with fresh camphor. 
 
 To conceal the empty grate, it is frequently covered with a 
 summer-blower of handsomely ornamented iron. 
 
 There are various pretty ways of decorating and screening 
 the grate with tissue-paper of different colours, ingeniously cut, 
 and made to fall like curtains over the whole front. The paper 
 is fastened to a round stick, (for instance, a piece of a brush- 
 handle, cut exactly to fit,) and laid along the slit or aperture at 
 the back of the chimney. The paper for these curtains may 
 be of two colours, (blue and yellow, or pink and green,) and 
 the long sheets must be folded and cut four double, and then 
 opened out. Sometimes a quantity of double cut-paper fringe 
 (generally green) is made, and wreathed closely round the bars of 
 the grate, so as to leave none of their iron visible ^, the interior of 
 the grate being fiUedVith long narrow strips or shavings of 
 paper of another colour. These cut papers, if carefully taken 
 
346 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 down and put away when the season is over, will last two 
 summers. 
 
 Where wood is burnt, many persons in summer fill up the 
 fire-place with a close chimney-board. This makes the room 
 too warm, as is also the case with a summer-blower. In a 
 chamber, particularly, the fire-place should on no account be 
 stopped up in summer. Among the least objectionable chim- 
 ney-boards are those of strong, black, gauze canvas, pasted at 
 the edge on an open wooden frame, and ornamented with a 
 centre-piece and narrow border of coloured worsted-work, or 
 with a large vase of flowers, cut out from wall-paper, and pasted 
 on the gauze. This gauze (which is made for similar purposes) 
 is of very open texture, and admits a little air from the chimney. 
 Still, for an open fire-place in summer, there is nothing better 
 than a large handsome jar to stand on the hearth, well filled 
 with fresh flowers, relieved against a background of long and 
 spreading cedar or pine twigs. 
 
 We have seen evening chimney-boards which were very 
 beautiful trarisparent paintings, stretcned on a l^ame made 
 exactly to fit the fire-place, and illuminated by a lamp or lamps 
 placed behind them on the hearth ; the light, if necessary, being 
 elevated to the proper height by setting it on a little bench. 
 A fine night-view of a great eruption of Vesuvius, and another 
 of Alpine scenery by moonlight, made very elegant transparen 
 cies for two chimney-boards. 
 
 There are chimney-boards of radiated silk, set in a mahogany 
 or rose-wood frame, with a gilt ornament in the centre. 
 
 For the admission of air into the room, there is no chimney- 
 board superior to those in the form of Venetian shutters, open- 
 ing in the middle. 
 
PACKING, ETC. 347 
 
 TO PACK GLASS AND CHINA.— Have ready a stout 
 wooden box, planed very smooth inside ; and procure a quantity 
 ot clean straw or hay, which had best be wetted with a little 
 water, so as 13 make it somewhat damp : this will prevent it 
 from slipping about. Put a layer of the straw or hay on the 
 bottom of the box, and then place on it some of the largest and 
 heaviest articles of the glass or china; filling in between them 
 with a sufficiency of straw. Then put another layer of straw, 
 and some more of the articles to be packed ; and^ proceed in 
 this manner till the box is full ; placing the lightest and smallest 
 things uppermost. Finish with a layer of straw at the top, and 
 then nail on the lid of the box ; and in marking the address 
 add the words, " This side up." If you have no regular mark- 
 ing pot and brush, you may put on the letters with a large 
 camel's hair pencil, dipped in good ink. The safety of valua- 
 ble articles of glass and china will be much secured by wrap- 
 ping them, each separately, in soft paper, before you pack them 
 with the straw. 
 
 Still, it is generally best to employ an experienced packer 
 for this purpose ; as the expense of doing so will be but trifling 
 in comparison with the risk of having the things broken. Also, 
 a person accustomed to packing can put more articles in the 
 same space than one who has had but little practice. 
 
 TO FOLD A DRESS FOR PACKING.— Spread the 
 dress, right side out, oil a bed ; and, taking it by the hem, make 
 the bottom exactly even all round. Next, double the skirt 
 lengthways in half, and then fold it lengthways in four, and 
 turn the fourth side over towards the back. After this, turn 
 up crossways about one-third of the folded lower part of the 
 skirt ; then give the remainder of the skirt a fold backwards, 
 terminating at the gathers at the waist. Next, turn the body 
 
S48 ' THEIIOUSEBOOK. 
 
 backwards, with the front uppermost, and the back resting on 
 the folded skirt beneath. Lastly, spread out the sleeves ; givu 
 each of them a fold forward at the shoulders, and a fold back- 
 ward at the elbows, and lay them across each other evenly on 
 the fore-body. 
 
 Fold the pelerine right-side out. First, double it in half, 
 oeginning down the middle of the back. Next, give the dou- 
 oled pelerine a fold backwards, then a fold forwards, and then 
 another fol(^ so as to leave the corners uppermost, 
 
 A belt-ribbon, for packing, should be rolled on a block, and 
 fastened with two little pins. 
 
 A lady's travelling dress should be made to fasten at the 
 side or in front, pelisse-fashion ; that, during her journey, she 
 may be able to dress herself without assistance. 
 
 It may be well to have a camphor-bag sewed to each of her 
 night-gowns, that she maybe less liable to attacks from insects 
 when sleeping in such beds as are frequently met with in 
 travelling. 
 
 TO FOLD A COAT FOR PACKING.— Lay the coat at 
 its ful} length upon a table, with the collar towards the left- 
 hand; pull out the collar so as to make it lie quite straight; 
 tuni up the coat towards the collar, letting the crease be just 
 at the elbow ; let the lappel or breast on one side be turned 
 smoothly back on the arm and sleeves. Turn the skirt over 
 the lappel, so that the end of the skirt will reach to the collar, 
 and the crease or folding will be just where the skirts part at 
 the termination of the waist. When you have done on one 
 side, do the same on the other. Turn the collar towards the 
 right-hand, and fold one skirt over the other, observing to let 
 ihe fold be in the middle of the collar. 
 
 You should have a yard and a half of brown holland, hemmed. 
 
PACKING, ETC. 349 
 
 marked, and kept for the purpose of wrapping a coat, waistcoat, 
 and pantaloons in, when packed for travelling. 
 
 Boots, when wrapped in paper for packing- up, frequently 
 burst through it and soil the clean linen. It is best to have foi 
 their bags of ticking or brown linen, made to fit them when 
 they are rolled up from the top about halfway down the leg. 
 
 If you do not take a dressing-case, a bag to hold a comb and 
 brush is also very useful, either for a lady or gentleman. 
 
 TO FOLD A SHIRT. — Having spread the shirt on a table 
 or on a bed, fold over the two sides lengthways, so as to lie 
 one over the other upon the bosom. Turn the sleeves back 
 halfway from the shoulders, (doubling over the sleeve-gussets 
 in half,) so as ta lie straight down on the folded body. Then ' 
 take the whole and give it a cross-fold upward, so that the 
 lower half of the shirt that is turned over, covers the upper part 
 of tlie sleeves and the bosom. 
 
 False collars are folded in half only. False bosom pieces, 
 first in half from the back, and then another fold is given, so 
 as to leave the full part upwards. 
 
 We advise all gentlemen that wear false collars to wear false 
 wristbands also. 
 
 TO PACK A LARGE TRUNK.— Have all the things 
 laid out ready, the light things divided from the heavy ones ; 
 and keep at hand a quire of soft wrapping paper. Spread a 
 clean thick towel over the bottom of the trunk, and place on it 
 the hard flat things, such as portfolios, music-books, a writing- 
 desk, boxes, books for reading, &c. ; taking care to fit them 
 well together, so as to be even at the top ; and filling up the 
 crevices wdth small articles that will not be injured by com- 
 
 pressment, each of them, however, wrapped in paper, to preven* 
 
 30 
 
Sr)0 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 their scraping or defacing the other things. Never use news- 
 paper for packing, as the printing ink will not fail to rub off 
 and soil whatever it touches. You may stick in a pair of shoes 
 here and there, each pair laid together as flat as possible, and 
 tied round with their own strings. Some persons have shoe- 
 bags made of flannel or cloth, and stitched into compartments, 
 each division containing a pair of shoes. Over the layer of 
 hard flat things in the bottom of the trunk, spread a towel ; 
 and on this lay your flannels, linen, &c., filling up the interstices 
 with stockings and gloves. Then cover them with another towel, 
 and put in your dresses, the muslin ones uppermost ; filling in the 
 corners with pocket handkerchiefs. On the top of your dresses lay 
 your pelerines, collars, and caps, (if you have no other. way of 
 carrying them,) &c., finishing with a thin towel over the whole. 
 No trunk should be packed so full as to strain the hinges. If 
 your trunk has a false top, you can fill that with any articles 
 that may be rolled up tightly. Shoes should on no account be 
 packed without covers, as the colour (particularly, if black) 
 will rub off, and disfigure any white things that may be near 
 them. Avoid putting any eatable articles in a trunk or box 
 that contains things which cannot be washed, as they may be 
 much injured by grease or stains. On no consideration, carry ink, 
 even though locked up in a writing desk. You can always at 
 the place to which you are going, buy yourself six cents worth 
 of ink in a small square bottle, which will also serve for an 
 inkstand. It is well, however, to take with you a few sheets 
 of good writing paper folded in the form of letters, each with 
 a wafer stuck on one edge, to be ready, in case you have occa- 
 sion to write before you reach your journey's end, or immedi- 
 ately after. It is well to have red tapes nailed across the inside 
 of the lid of your trunk, for the purpose of slipping letters and 
 paners between them. 
 
PACKING, ETC. 351 
 
 There are travelling trunks with a sort of movable tray fitt 
 ing in ntai vLe top. This tray can be lifted in and out, and is 
 for ihe purpose of containing pelerines, collars, scarfs, ribbons, 
 laces, &c. Sox.10 very large trunks have a partition at one end, 
 to hold a bonnet or other millinery. 
 
 It is best, however, to have a proper bonnet-box, either of 
 painted wood or ot leather. To keep the bonnet steady, sew 
 to it in convenient places under the trimming, pieces of tape, 
 the other ends of which should be secured wath tack-nails to 
 the floor and sides of tkc box. In the corners, you may lay a 
 few caps, &c., as lightly us possible. 
 
 Leather trunks generally have brass plates on which is 
 engraved the name of the cwner. It is now very customary 
 to have the name painted on both ends of the trunk, and also 
 on the bonnet boxes. Besides which, if you are travelling 
 wdth several articles of baggao-c, it is w^ell to have them all 
 designated by a piece of red tape ci comething of the sort tied 
 round the handles of each. A lady, before setting out on a 
 journey, should be provided with a card or paper, on which 
 she has written a list and description of her trunk, box, carpet- 
 bag, &c. Previous to the hour for starting, she should give 
 this list to the gentleman under whose escoit she is to travel, 
 and it will save him much trouble in finding out and taking 
 care of her baggage. 
 
 The best paper for wrapping light articles that are to be 
 packed in trunks, is the thin, soft sheets of light blue, buflf, 
 gray, and other colours, that are retailed at six cents per quire. 
 It is well to keep a supply of it always in the house. 
 
 For heavier articles, (books, &c.,) the nankeen paper will be 
 found preferable to any other, as it is both smooth and strong. 
 
 In putting up a paper parcel to go any distance over twenty 
 miles, it is better to secure it only with sealing-wax, (putting 
 
352 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 always a wafer under the seal,) than to tie it round with twine, 
 as in the course of transportation, the twine is very apt to rub 
 and cut through the paper. 
 
 When putting up a newspaper or any other printed sheet to 
 go by mail, always leave the cover open at one end. 
 
 CARPET BAGS. — ^The best carpet-bags are those that are 
 made with large gores at the sides, as they hold much more 
 than when of two straight pieces only. It is well to have the 
 owner's name engraved on the lock. Articles of dress that 
 cannot be compressed into a small compass, should not be put 
 into a lady's carpet bag, which should hold the flannel, linen, 
 stockings, night-clothes, shawl, shoes, &c., that she may be 
 likely to want during her journey ; those that she will require 
 the first night to be placed at the top, where also she 
 should have a bag containing her comb, hair-brusH, &c. For 
 want of a bag, these things may be pinned up tightly in a towel ; 
 and she may do the same with her shoes if she has no shoe-bag. 
 
 A TRAVELLING RETICULE.— A reticule for travelling, 
 may be so made, as to contain many useful articles. Get (for 
 instance) three quarters of a yard of the thickest and best dark 
 coloured India silk, such as is called senshaw. Divide it into 
 two pieces, about a quarter and a half quarter in each, but the 
 outer piece a little deeper than the inner. Then lay them to- 
 gether so as to be double, and divide them into four compart- 
 ments, by making three downward rows of stitching or running: 
 when you have sewed up the side edges of the bag, you will 
 have four divisions. Leave sufficient at the top of the innei 
 Immg for a hem ; and the outside must rise a little beyond the 
 inside and be hemmed down so as to form a case, to be drawn 
 wHh ribbons, or broad silk braid. Gather the bottom of the 
 
PACKING, ETC. 353 
 
 bag, and draw it up as close as possible, so as to finish it with 
 a tassel, or a bow of ribbon at the gathering place. This bag 
 will be found very useful in travelling; as in the different 
 divisions, you may carry a comb, hair-brush, tooth-brush, 
 Bmelling-bottle, a cake of soap, purse, needle-book, keys, &c., 
 so arranged, as not to interfere with each other inconveniently; 
 leaving the space in the middle of the bag for your handker- 
 chief, which you can then take out without any danger of its 
 bringing other things along with it. These large reticules will 
 be found less troublesome to carry, and better in every respect, 
 than a travellinof hand-basket. 
 
 A BONNET- COVER.— When travelling in dry weather 
 on a road that is likely to be dusty, you may effectually pro- 
 tect your bonnet from injury, by taking with you a cover for 
 it. To make this cover, get a yard of white glazed cambric 
 muslin, and cut it into the form of a large straight hood; 
 gathering it close at the back of the head upon a small circular 
 piece about the size of a half-dollar. Slope it away at the 
 sides of the neck, and put a case with a drawing-string of fine 
 tape along the edge of the front: the string to tie at the side. 
 
 If you commence your journey by water, you can roll up this 
 bonnet-cover, and keep it in your reticule while in the steam- 
 boat; putting it over your bonnet, and drawing it round your 
 face, just before you get into the vehicle in which you are to 
 ride. You will find when you take it off, that it has effectually 
 screened your bonnet and its ribbons from the dust and sun. 
 It must, of course, be made very large and loose, that it may 
 not flatten or discompose the trimming. 
 
 We have seen bonnet-covers of green silk; but, if it chances 
 to o-et wet, the green dye will run down and stain the bonnet 
 The same thing may happen, if the cover is of coloured muslm. 
 
 30* 
 
354 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 White is undoubtedly the best for this purpose; and when 
 soiled, it can be easily washed. 
 
 After being out in the damp, do not immediately put away 
 your bonnet ; but wipe the front and crown with a clean hand- 
 kerchief, and put some wadding or tissue paper into the bows,, 
 to keep them from losing their shape: taking it out, however, 
 as soon as the ribbon is perfectly dry. Also, never put away 
 a shawl or cloak while it is in the least damp. Do not always 
 fold a shawl in the same creases, lest it wear out along the 
 edges of the folds. When you take off a veil, stretch it evenly 
 on the bed, and let it remain there an hour or two, in case there 
 should be any dampness about it. 
 
 W'henever the atmosphere is cloudy or humid, it is well to 
 take the feathers out of your bonnet before you go out, lest they 
 lose their curl, or their whiteness. 
 
 PACKING HOUSEHOLD ARTICLES— In packing for 
 the removal of a family to a distant place, let all the boxes and 
 trunks be numbered, and the numbers put down in a book; let 
 some one who overlooks the whole of the packing, set down 
 every article, denoting the exact box or trunk in which it i 
 placed, and the order in which the things are put in, beginning 
 first with those at the bottom. By this means, after arriving 
 at the place of destination, you will know, by consulting vour 
 book, where to find whatever you want; and .which oi the 
 boxes it will be best to open first. Also, in a long sea-voyage, 
 if there is occasion to have a trunk brought from the hold to 
 get out of it any particular article, your book will tell exactly 
 in which of your trunks that article is. For want of such an 
 inventory, we have seen, in crossing the Atlantic, three or four 
 trunks brought up belonging to one family, opened, and 
 searcned, before the right one could be found. 
 
n55 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES 
 
 KEEPING A COW.~In buying a cow, you will find i* 
 cheapest in the end, to get a very excellent one, even at a high 
 price. But a good American cow (having the advantage of 
 ' eing all her life accustomed to our climate) will, with proper 
 oare, be found quite as profitable to a family that keeps but one, 
 as an imported cow purchased at double or treble the cost. A 
 good native cow, if well fed and well lodged, will in the best 
 season, give from ten to twelve quarts of milk a day, and many 
 give more than twelve. If, with all the care you can take of 
 her, she gives less than ten quarts, she is not a good cow, and 
 it will be best to sell her and try another. 
 
 Cows sell lowest in the autumn and highest in the spring. 
 Always buy a cow that has a calf with her, as the calf will 
 reconcile her to her new residence. Keep up the calf in a place 
 by itself, letting it out occasionally in fine weather, to play 
 about a while in a safe enclosure. Let the cow be turned in to 
 the calf three times a day ; early in the morning, at noon, and 
 towards evening, just before milking time. If the days are 
 very short, instead of putting the cow with the calf in day-time, 
 leave her with it all night. The calf will not be fit for killing 
 in less than five weeks ; and during that time, to make it fat 
 and healthy, it should be allowed to get a great plenty of the 
 cow's milk. Give it occasionally a little salt. Forbid the 
 children of the family to approach the calf when in presence 
 of Its raothei ; as the fear that they may hurt it, will rendei 
 
356 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 her very ferocious. When it is to be taken finally away, let it 
 be removed when the cow is out of sight and hearing ; other- 
 wise she will be too much distressed. While grieving for the 
 loss of her calf, she will give less milk than usual. 
 
 A cow's stable should be tight and weather-proof, with two 
 doors, and one or more windows. The floor should have a very 
 little slope down towards the front door. The stable should 
 be furnished with a manger and a drinking trough, and have a 
 loft above to contain the hay. A large jar of salt should be 
 kept always in the stable-loft ; and fix a salt-box in a place 
 convenient to the manger, and within the cow's reach. Into 
 this box put a handful every day ; as cows are extremely fond 
 of salt, and without it they will not thrive. Some persons, 
 instead of this, give the cow half a handful of salt every time 
 she is milked. This is a good plan, as it pleases her, and 
 causes her to let down her milk ; and is an additional induce- 
 ment for her to come regularly home in the evening. 
 
 The stable door should be left open all day, (except in severe 
 or stormy weather,) that the cow may go in and out as she 
 pleases ; and care should be taken always to keep fresh water 
 in the stable. At night, soon after milking, put her into the 
 stable, and keep her shut up till next morning. At least two 
 buckets-full of fresh water should be left inher drinking-trou gU 
 every night. In stormy and severe weather, keep her all day 
 in the stable, and allow her additional food. 
 
 In summer, give her at milking-time a large basket-full of 
 fresh-cut grass, emptying it down before her. This will be thti 
 best food she can have ; but for a change, her morning repast 
 may be of the refuse of the garden, collected for the purpose ; 
 such as beet-tops, carrot-tops, corn-husks, and a few of tlie 
 outside leaves of cabbages ; but if cabbages are given in any 
 quantity, they will spoil the taste of the milk. So also will 
 
KEEPING A COW. 357 
 
 every sort of turnips. Cows are extremely fond of pumpkins, 
 and they are very good for them : so are apples, potatoes, beets, 
 carrots, and parsneps, all of them cut up small ; otherwise the 
 cow may choke in swallowing them. Cows will eat no food 
 that has any thing animal about it, and nothing that is dirty 'oi 
 decayed. If water is brought to them in a greasy pail, they 
 will on no account touch it. It is 720^ well to give them parings, 
 &c.,from the kitchen; and what is called slop is unwholesome 
 for them, besides making their milk taste disagreeably. 
 
 In summer, after being milked in the morning, let your cow 
 go all day in a good rich pasture ; but do not allow her to keep 
 about the road, as the little she can pick up there will do 
 her no good ; not to mention the danger of accidents, and the 
 probability of her straying away. 
 
 If she is accustomed to being always fed at milking-time, 
 she will come home from her pasture-ground every afternoon 
 of her own accord, which is a saving of much trouble. Give 
 her another basket-full of cut grass, or some other wholesome 
 vegetable food, while she is getting milked in the evening. 
 
 Two tons of hay (not less) are about sufficient for a cow 
 through the winter, unless it is a very long one ; with half a 
 bushel of bran each day. 
 
 In winter, a cow should be punctually fed three times a day. 
 Early in the morning give her eight quarts of wheat bran 01 
 shorts, mixed with sufficient water to make it rather liquid ; 
 and, besides her allowance of bran, let her have as much hay 
 as she wil_ eat. At noon give her hay only, but enough foi 
 her to eat till she is satisfied. In the evening, give her again 
 eight quarts of bran mixed with water, and as much hay as she 
 wants. If she is a good cow, you will be amply remunerated 
 for feeding her thus liberally with wholesome food, by the 
 quantity and lichness of the milk she will yield in consequence 
 
358. THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 Unless a cow is well-fed, well-sheltered, and kept fat and 
 healthy, her milk will be poor and in small quantity, and she 
 will be dry nearly half the year, instead of only about three 
 weeks. Besides which, eows that are kept in poor condition 
 are liable to diseases, and become infested with vermin. It is 
 a great error not to feed the cow as well as usual during the 
 time she is dry. Her food should then, as always, be good and 
 plentiful ; and you will be amply repaid by the quantity of 
 milk she will give afterwards. 
 
 The milk-pans should be broad and shallow. If they are 
 not kept very clean by scalding and washing, the milk will 
 taste disagreeably, or turn sour in them. During the day, the 
 empty pans should be exposed to the sun and air ; but about 
 an hour before milking-time, they should be filled with cold 
 water, to cool and refresh them. The pails or buckets require 
 clean scouring every day. If the outside is painted, (a good 
 practice,) it will be only necessary to scald and wash the inside 
 daily. 
 
 The person that milks should be provided with a small 
 wooden stool to sit on ; and with thick .water-proof shoes, as a 
 protection against the damp ground at early morning or in wet 
 weather. Care must be taken always to milk the cow tho- 
 roughly dry ; otherwise the quantity of her milk will decrease, 
 and she will at last cease to give any. After she has been 
 nearly milked, quit her for a little w^hile ; during which time 
 you may carry in and strain the milk. Then go back to her 
 with another and smaller vessel, and give her a final milking, 
 or stripping, as it is called. These strippings are nearly as 
 lich as cream ; and if you make butter, they may be put into 
 the cream-crock. 
 
 We have known a cow, fed, sheltered, and managed exactly 
 m the above manner, to produce milk enough to make seven 
 
THE DAIRY, ETC. 359 
 
 pounds a week of the best possible butter, yellov/, rich, and 
 sweet. 
 
 If you have no milk-house, get a refrigerator or larg-e ice-box, 
 txdusively for the milk, cream, and butter ; putting- nothing else 
 mto it. Milk is liable to imbibe a bad taste, and to sour easily, 
 if exposed to the vicinity of other articles of food ; therefore 
 (unless shut up in a refrigerator) it ought, never to be kept in 
 a cellar. We have known milk to acquire an intolerable taste 
 from being kept in a cellar in w^hich there was a barrel of salt 
 fish ; and the butter made from this milk was uneatable. 
 
 Cows should never be allowed access to any field in which 
 there is garlic ; as the strong taste and smell that it communi- 
 cates to their milk and butter, and even to the flesh of their 
 calves, can by no process be removed. 
 
 THE DAIRY. — A dairy or milk-house should be divided 
 into two apartments. The one that contains the milk and 
 cream had best be built over a running brooklet, so that in 
 summer the pans may sit in the cold water upon broad flat 
 stones, placed there for the purpose. The remainder should 
 be neatly paved with brick or stone, laid with a slight descent; 
 and the floor ought to be washed every day in summer, and 
 twice a week in winter. 
 
 The building should have very thick walls, so as to exclude 
 the heat in the summer and the cold in the winter. The win- 
 dows (they should never front the south, south-east, or south- 
 west) ought to be secured with wire netting, having also glazed 
 sashes to open with hinges. The aparttnent that contains the 
 milk, cream, and butter, should be used for no other purpose, 
 and nothing else should be kept there. In the additional room 
 let all the other articles be placed that are necessary for dairy 
 business, neatly ranged on shelves. Here also keep you; 
 
360 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 cheese, rennet, &c. Let every utensil be kept perfectly 
 clean; otherwise the milk will turn sour, and the butter will 
 have a bad ta«?te. The best milk-pans are of brown earthen 
 ware ; those of metal being injurious to the milk. Twice a 
 week in summer, and once a week in winter, it is well to half 
 fill them all with wood-ashes, and then pour on boiling water 
 till it reaches the brim. Let them stand in this for several 
 hours ; then empty them, and wash them clean with hot water, 
 rinsing them with cold, and wiping them dry. Besides your 
 pails and milk-pans, you will want tall earthen crocks for the 
 cream and butter-milk ; a skimming-dish ; a cream-stick ; a 
 strainer, which is a tin basin with a bottom of fine canvas or 
 holting-cloth ; a churn ; a short-handled butter-scoop or ladle, 
 and a butter-print. It is well also to have a table with a marble 
 top, a pair of scales for weighing the butter, and a set of linen 
 cloths, in which to wrap each pound separately. 
 
 In summer the cream should not be kept more than two or 
 three days ; and in winter the churning ought to be done three 
 times in a fortnight ; as, if the cream is kept too long, the butter 
 will certainly be bad. The cream-crock should be stirred 
 several times a day with the stick. Where there are two or 
 three cows, it is best to have a barrel-churn, which is turned 
 by a handle. If there is but one cow, a common or dash-churn 
 will do very well. We have heard of chums of a new con- 
 struction, that will'cause the butter to come in twenty minutes. 
 They are made at Westchestei, in Pennsylvania. 
 
 The following is an English receipt for making butter ; and 
 we think it may be depended on as a good one. The art of 
 butter-rtiaking is nowhere better understood than in England. 
 
 In summer the churn should b» filled with cold spring water, 
 and in winterscalded with hot water, preparatory to churning; 
 then i^our the cream in without spilling. In warm weathei 
 
THE DAIRY. 361 
 
 the churning should be performed in a cool place. In cold 
 weather, let the churning be done in a warm place ; indeed, it 
 IS sometimes necessary to bring the churn near the fire, and to 
 pour in a little hot water to hasten the butter, which, however, 
 will become white by the process. The butter being come, 
 pour off the butter-milk into a clean crock, leaving the butter 
 m the churn ; pour in a pail-full of cold water ; wash the butter 
 about in it; pour off this water, and put in a fresh pail-full. 
 Let the butter stand in the second cold water for ten or fifteen 
 minutes. Having scalded a milk-pan, and stood it for half an 
 hour or more in a small tub of cold water, lift the butter out of 
 the churn, and put it into this milk-pan. Then pour over it 
 plenty of fresh water, and wash the butter well about in it. 
 Drain the water off as dry as possible, and then proceed to 
 work the buttermilk out of the butter. Either do this with your 
 hands, (which should first be dipped in warm water,) or with 
 one of the short-handled flat butter-ladles made for the purpose. 
 Work the butter by squeezing and pressing it by degrees from 
 one side of the pan to the other. Then rinse it by pouring on 
 cold water. Pour that off; work the butter to the other side 
 of the pan ; pour on more cold water to rinse it ; and work the 
 butter back again. Repeat this till the rinsing-water ceases to 
 look in the least milky; and when the water pours off quite 
 colourless, you may be sure that the butter-milk is all worked 
 out. If there is any left in, the butter will have streaks of 
 white when cut, and will lose its sweetness, and very soon 
 taste disagreeably. Having worked out the milk, and weighed 
 the lump of butter, the next thing is to put in the salt, which 
 should first be rolled quite fine with the rolling-pin. The salt 
 must be of the best quality. You may allow about a quarter 
 of an ounce of salt to each pound of butter. Lay *ihe lump ol' 
 nutter on the marble table, if you have one, (or else in a large 
 
362 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 shallow dish,) and press it out thin and flat. Then sprinkle it 
 with a little salt; fold up the butter, press it flat again, strew 
 over it some more salt, fold it up and press it out again, and 
 proceed in this manner till all the salt is in; working and 
 pressing the butter well, that the salt maybe thoroughly incor- 
 porated with it, and all the remaining moisture pressed out; 
 pouring off whatever liquid may remain in the pan. Take ofi' 
 a piece of the butter at a time, put it on a wooden plate, (which 
 should be previously scalded and then dipped in cold wat^r,) 
 and beat and work it with the butter-ladle till all the water is 
 beaten out. When the water is all out, divide it equally into 
 pounds, or half pounds, or pats, (smoothing it nicely,) and then 
 print it. If you have no print, you may make it up into long 
 thick rolls, from which, when you want the butter for use, you 
 cut off round slices. Finish by laying it on the marble table, 
 or placing it in pans and setting it in the water of the milk- 
 house, or in some other cool place, covering it with linen cloths, 
 first scalded and then dipped in cold water. Do not, however, 
 place it near an open window, as too much air will injure it. 
 In a few hours it will become quite firm. 
 
 When you have done the butter, wash up at once, in hot 
 water, all the things that have been used in making it. 
 
 TO PREPARE A RENNET.— The rennet or runnet is 
 the stomach of a calf. Its form is that of a bag, and it has the 
 property of converting milk into a curd ; being used for that 
 purpose after undergoing the following preparation. Having 
 carefu.iy emptied it of all its contents, rinse it well with cold 
 water ; but if washed long or much, it will lose its strength, 
 and its qualityof turning milk will be proportionately impaired. 
 
 After the rinsing, lay it in a shallow pan, and sprinkle it well 
 on ooth sides with fine salt. When you have thoroughly salted 
 
KEEPING POULTRY. 363 
 
 It, cover the pan, and let the rennet lie in the salt four or five 
 (lays. Then take it out, and slip into it a long smooth rod or 
 stick, which must be bent into the form of a loop or bow, and 
 the two ends tied together with twine. The rennet must be 
 well stretched upon the stick. Afterwards hang it up in a dry 
 room ; and when it is thoroughly dried, keep it in a drawer or 
 closet. You can sfet rennets for curing from the butcher. 
 
 A piece of rennet about three inches square (or more, if it is 
 not a new one) will be sufficient to turn a quart of milk, which 
 must first be made warm. The piece of rennet should be well 
 washed in cold water, and then wiped to get all the salt out, 
 and then steeped for some hours in a cup with just enough of 
 luke-warm water to cover it. This water should then te stirred 
 into the warmed milk, covering it and setting it not far from 
 the fire. When the milk has beconie a firm curd, and the whey 
 looks greenish, remove it to a cold place, as it should be eaten 
 quite cold. 
 
 Rennets ready prepared, can be bought for a trifle, at all sea- 
 sons, in Philadelphia market. They are much used for curds 
 and whey. The smallest rennets are the best. 
 
 TO KEEP FOWLS.— No fowls can possibly thrive well, 
 or be profitable to the owners, unless they are plentifully fed, 
 and have a comfortable place to roost in at night and for a 
 shelter in cold or wet weather. Their room or hen-house may 
 be adjoining to the wood-house, or some other out-building. 
 It is best to have it facing the east or the south, and it must be 
 perfectly weather-tight. It should have a door and window^s, 
 and be very well lighted : the windows may either be latticed 
 with wood, or netted with iron wire. In the evening, after the 
 fowls have gone to roost, let the door be locked ; seeing that 
 it is opened very early in the morning, unless in bad weather. 
 
364 THE HOUSE book. 
 
 The hen-house should be frequently cleaned out, and occasion- 
 ally white-washed ; for if kept dirty, the fowls will be infested 
 with vermin. If this should happen, catch every fowl, even to 
 the smallest chickens, and rub their skins and feathers well 
 with lard or dripping- ; then have their house thoroughly cleaned 
 and white-washed at once; afterwards fumigating it with burn- 
 ing brimstone. Next, throw some sand or fresh earth on the 
 floor. 
 
 If fowls are scantily supplied with water, or if they have 
 access only to that which is dirty or puddled, they will contract 
 a disorder called the pip, which is a thin white scale that 
 grows on the tip of the tongue, and prevents their feeding. 
 Catch them, pull off the scale with your fore-finger nail, and 
 then rub the tongue with salt. When fowls have this or any 
 other disease, they look drooping, their eyes appear dull, and 
 their combs and gills become pale and flabby. When they are 
 sick, feed them with bran that has been mixed to a paste with 
 boiling water. 
 
 In wet weather, keep the fowls shut up all day in the hen- 
 house; also when it is very cold, taking care that they are 
 properly supplied with food and water. They should have in 
 their house a little manger or feeding-trough, which ought 
 never to be empty. If they have plenty of food always by 
 them, they will eat frequently but only a little at a time, and it 
 is best for them to do so. When their food is given to them 
 scantily and irregularly, they injure themselves by devouring 
 it too fast. 
 
 Feed them chiefly with Indian corn, allowing at least three 
 quarts a day in winter, and two quarts in summer, to a dozen 
 fowls. The corn will be still better for them, if previously ' 
 soaked in water. They should have food given to them regu- 
 larly three times a day. It is usual to feed young '^•h'cl'ens on 
 
KEEPING POULTRY. 365 
 
 Indian meal mixed soft with water. Curds are still better foi 
 them. When newly hatched, they may have bread soaked 
 in milk. By way of variety, you may give your fowls occa- 
 sionally, buck-wheat, barley, rice, and oats ; but nothing will 
 fatten them so well, and keep them so healthy, as corn. 
 
 If always fed there, they will stay chiefly in their house 
 during the winter, and will in consequence be more healthy, 
 and in every respect more profitable. They must be well sup- 
 plied with plenty of clean water in large shallow pans of tin or 
 earthen; and also with brick-dust and gravel to assist their 
 digestion. It is well to place in the centre of their large water- 
 pan, a small but heavy one of earthen-ware, turned bottom 
 upwards, on which the fowls can stand to drink without wet- 
 ting their feet : which often in winter makes them sick, or causes 
 their toes to freeze so that they lose them. Recollect always 
 that dirty water gives them diseases. But a little clean brick- 
 dust thrown occasionally into their drinking pans, is good for 
 their digestion. 
 
 Their nests should be movable, that whenever the hen has 
 
 done sitting, they may be taken away, and cleaned out before 
 
 they are replaced. For the nest, you may place on the floor 
 
 (not far from the walls, but not against them) old flat baskets ; 
 
 or deep boxes set up on the side; the open or entrance part 
 
 turned /rom the light. Fill them with clean dry straw or hay. 
 
 Place near the boxes lime for the hens to form their egg-shells. 
 
 Old rubbish-lime, or plaster from old walls, is very proper for 
 
 this purpose, if well broken up. If you cannot procure this, mix 
 
 lime and water to a mortar ; let it dry, then break it up and pui 
 
 it into the hen-house. See that the setting hens have plenty of 
 
 food and water every day, at the time they come off their nests. 
 
 If they are not supplied fit once, they will go back to their nests 
 
 without waiting, and suffer much in consequence. 
 
 81* 
 
366 THE HOUSE BOOK 
 
 Their roosts or perches should be so contrived as noi to be 
 exactly over each other, and some should be placed low enough 
 for the young fowls to reach without difRculty in flying up to 
 them. Let none of the nest-boxes be placed under the roosts. 
 
 The hen-house should frequently be cleaned out, white- 
 washed, fumigated with sulphur, or by burning pine or cedar 
 boughs ; and then strewed with sand. 
 
 Indian meal and West India molasses, mixed together, and 
 combined till it crumbles, is excellent for fattening chickens, 
 and making them grow rapidly. When fed with it three times 
 a day, they have been known in two months to become as large 
 as full-grown fowls. The great Bucks County fowls, (as they 
 are called in Pennsylvania,) if fed in this manner, will grow 
 to such a size, that when brought on table, they are often mis- 
 taken for young turkeys. 
 
 Wormwood and rue, sowed plentifully every spring about the 
 neighbourhood of the hen-house, will tend to keep away vermin ; 
 and if strewed about the floor in the vicinity of their nests, it will 
 keep off weasels and other such animals that come to suck the 
 eggs. They may also be kept offby scattering powdered valerian. 
 Twelve fine hens, managed in the foregoing manner, well- 
 sheltered, kept clean, and plentifully supplied with good food 
 and water, have been known to supply two thousand eggs in 
 the course of a year, (laying all winter,) and a hundred chickens 
 have been raised from them, all fat and ready for killing in the 
 autumn. The best hens for laying during the winter are 
 pullets hatched the preceding spring. 
 
 Bantam fowls are less injurious to a garden than any others, 
 as the feathers about their feet prevent them from scratching 
 up the seeds. If your garden fence has the palings sharp- 
 pointed at the top, the fowls that are outside will find it difii- 
 cult to get over; as after flying up to the top, they will have 
 
KEEPING POULTRY. 307 
 
 no place to rest iheir feet on, while preparing to take iheir 
 flight downward. 
 
 When yooi do not intend the hen to sit, instead of keeping 
 one real egg always in the nest, have it furnished with three 
 very large ones, shaped out of chalk. 
 
 When a hen hatches in wet weather, the young chickens as 
 they come out of the shell, should be brought into the kitchen 
 or some other warm room, and kept there till next day or longer, 
 in a basket with some cotton or wadding in it ; feeding them 
 with curds or with soaked bread. After she has hatched, con- 
 tinue to feed the hen exceedingly well, or she will not have 
 warmth enough for her chickens when she collects them under 
 her; besides that, during the day, she requires great strength to 
 enable her to take care of them, and make for them the unusual 
 exertions to which she is prompted by nature. The chickens 
 of a poor hen die off very fast. 
 
 TURKEYS. — Turkeys are more difficult to raise than any 
 other poultry ; as when young, the least exposure to wet is 
 destructive to them. A turkey-house should be contrived and 
 managed just like a chicken-house. As turkeys are ift much 
 esteem for the table, and always bring a good price when raised 
 for market, they are well worth the trouble and expense of rear- 
 ing carefully. Those hatched in May or late in April, after the 
 weather has become settled, always thrive the best; but till 
 they are as large as an old partridge, and have their backs well 
 covered with feathers, they should be kept closely in their house 
 
 9 
 
 every morning till the dew is quite off the ground ; and in 
 damp weather, they should not be allowed to go out at all. 
 [f hatched in wet weather, keep them several days in the house. 
 The best food for young turkeys, is milk turned with rennet 
 into a firm cu^d, made fresh for them every day; and this is 
 
368 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 also excellent for every sort of poultry, when very young. If 
 fed in this manner, and kept warm and dry, you may not lose 
 one out of twenty ; and a flock of fine full-grown turkeys is 
 valuable when the season comes for eating them. Their food 
 may be varied occasionally with soaked bread, or with Indian 
 meal mixed with water; and when a little older, you may give 
 them the wet Indian meal entirely. 
 
 When they get their head-feathers, they have become hardy 
 enough to prowl about, for which they like to have ample space. 
 Their food should then be corn or buck-wheat. They will fatten 
 very fast on Indian meal, mixed with skim-milk. As a change^ 
 boiled carrots and boiled Russian turnips are very good for 
 them. Turkeys are great devourers, and, to become fat, will 
 require feeding five times a day. They will thrive best if their 
 corn is parboiled. 
 
 It is well to rear young turkeys under the hens of the com- 
 mon fowl; as they do not ramble like the hen-turkeys, and 
 teach the young ones to ramble also. 
 
 GEESE. — Geese can only be kept to advantage where there 
 are old fields or commons for them to graze in, as grass is an 
 important article of their food. If well kept^ a goose will lay a 
 hundred eggs in a year. In France, where great attention is 
 paid to the raising of geese, they do not allow the goose to si; 
 herself, but they put her eggs under common fowls, giving fom 
 or five eggs to each hen. If the goose is permitted to sit, she 
 must be plentifully and regularly fed during the process. 
 When the young ones are hatched, they should be kept in •<» 
 warm dry place for four days or more, (according to the wea 
 ther,) and fed with lettuce leaves boiled in milk, or with Indiar, 
 meal mixed with milk rather than water. They will then 
 begin to graze a little. 
 
KEEPING POULTRY. 369 
 
 Though geese eat grass, they will not, however, fatten upon 
 11. They should be fed with corn early in the morning. They 
 will then walk off to their field by themselves, and come home 
 of their own accord in the evening ; when they ought to be fed 
 again, before they go to rest. Their sleeping-place must always 
 be under cover; and in their grazing-field a brook or some 
 accessible water is indispensable. 
 
 Geese should not be killed till they are full-grown : what 
 are called green geese are flabby and tasteless. To fatten geese 
 rapidly for killing, put them for a few weeks into a pen, which 
 must be kept well littered with clean straw, and have belong- 
 ing to it a feeding trough for their corn or oats, and a drinking 
 trough kept well supplied with clean water. Geese will not 
 thrive if kept dirty. Vary their food with refuse lettuces and 
 cabbages from the garden. 
 
 The latter part of the summer is their moulting season ; and 
 if not picked, when their small feathers become loose they will 
 drop about the ground and be wasted. If the goose-picking is 
 done by a woman, she must have all the geese caught and 
 penned up in some convenient place ; and then, putting on a 
 large coarsft apron, she must take each goose on her lap, hold- 
 ing its legs fast with one hand, while she picks off the loose 
 feathers with the other, and lays them in a basket beside her. 
 
 An old goose should be allowed to live as long as possible ; 
 for, if killed, it will be too hard and tough to be eaten. 
 
 DUCKS. — ^Though ducks, like pigs, will eat of garbage, 
 and of various disgusting things, yet there is no advantage in 
 their dc/ng so, but precisely the contrary ; as their flesh becomes 
 strong and bad in proportion. Corn, oats, buckwheat, wetted 
 -.ndian meal, lettuces, white cabbages, and other refuse of the 
 o-arden, are excellent food for them. Parsley, sowed about thH 
 
370 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 edges of the ponds or streams that they frequent, greatly 
 improves their flesh. So does wild celery, which imparts a 
 similar flavour to that of the canvas-back, the most delicious 
 of ducks. A place for them to retire to at night should be par- 
 titioned off or erected not far from the water ; and here they 
 should be fed morning and evening. This will always bring 
 them home from their rambles. 
 
 If a duck is well lodged and fed, she will lay ten dozen of 
 eggs in the course of a year; and duck-eggs are extremely rich, 
 and excellent for all purposes. It is usual to set duck-eggs 
 under a common hen for hatching. The ducklings, when quite 
 young, should be fed on curds or Indian meal mixed with milk, 
 and should not be let out early in the morning to eat slugs, 
 worms, caterpillars, &c. ; for those things, if eaten profusely, 
 will kill them. They should, if possible, be prevented from 
 going into water and swimming till they are more than a month 
 old. When you are fattenir. g them for killing, keep them from 
 eating any garbage or animal food whatever. 
 
 TO KEEP BEES. — In America the common bee-hives are 
 made of wood, in the form of a tall, four-sided, bottomless box, 
 with a flat cover or roof projecting several inches all round, and 
 an open door or entrance-hole near the bottom. The hives must 
 be made very tight, and quite impervious to rain. They are set 
 in a row on broad high benches ; and to prevent rats, mice, &c., 
 from running up, it is well to have the legs of the benches cased 
 in tin. The hive-benches should not be placed close to a fence, 
 a tree, or even in the immediate vicinity of tall shrubs or 
 flowers, that they may be the less accessible to any thing that 
 is lik6iy ,o commit depredations on the bees. Ants are their 
 mortal, enemies. To keep these away, take some green sticks 
 or rods, lay them on the ground, twist them into the form of 
 
KEEPING BEES. 371 
 
 rin^s, so as to encircle each leg of the hive-bench, at a few 
 inches from it. Then cover these rings thickly vi^ith tar. You 
 may easily trace these destructive insects to their hills, and 
 you may destroy them there, by pouring on boiling water after 
 night, when they are all at home. 
 
 Wasps and hornets are also very injurious to bees ; and thei* 
 nests should always be destroyed as soon as they begin to 
 make them. This can be done, by holding under them a stick 
 to the end of which is fixed a lighted rag, that has been greased 
 and dipped in brimstone. 
 
 As fowls will eat bees, they should not be allowed access 
 to the place where the hives are kept. 
 
 The best situation for hives is to face the south or the south- 
 east. From the north they should always be sheltered. As 
 bees require a great deal of water, they will not thrive unless 
 there is a stream in their vicinity. The grass round their bench 
 should be kept free from weeds, and some dwarf or low flowers 
 may come within two feet of it; but tall plants will assist de- 
 structive insects in getting to the bees. 
 
 The hives must have four sticks across the inside, at equal 
 distances, for the bees to work on. The entrance hole may be 
 four inches wide, and an inch and a half high. Old hives 
 should not be used for new bees ; for an old hive is not so 
 wholesome as a new one, and it may probably be infested with 
 the embryos of moths and other insects. 
 
 Bees are extremely fond of the blossoms of fruit trees, (of 
 the peach, particularly,) and of aromatic herbs ; also of the 
 blossoms of beans and of white clover. But the best honey is 
 made from the flowers of the buck-wheat. 
 
 After buying or selling a hive of bees, the best time to re 
 move it for the purpose of carrying it away, is in the evening 
 It should be raised a little from the bench several hours before. 
 
372 T H E H U S E BOOK. 
 
 by placing wedges under it, so that all the btes may have time 
 to get up into the inside ; otherwise they will be very trouble- 
 some. Then slip a board under the hive, of the size and snape, 
 to form a bottom, and plaster it on well with mortar. PricK a 
 card all over with a fork, so as to make it full of air-holes, and 
 tack it over the entrance hole. Thus secured, the hive with 
 the bees in it, may be conveyed to their new residence, which 
 should be near enough for them to arrive that night; otherwise 
 the combs will be injured. 
 
 When the bees become too numerous for one hive, they issue 
 out in a swarm, with a queen of their own, and must be enticed 
 into a new hive, or they will fly away and be lost to their owner 
 You may know when they are going to swarm, by seeing them 
 clustering in masses on the tench or outside of the hive, and 
 by the peculiar sound of their humming. A new hive must 
 be in readiness to receive them, and it should be rubbed about 
 the lower part with cream and sugar, or with thyme, mint, 
 marjoram, or other sweet herbs. A large clean cloth (a sheet, 
 for instance) should be prepared to receive them, if necessary. 
 Bees, when they are going to swarm, never rise to begin their 
 flight, except on a fine, clear day, and they all start together; 
 generally between nine in the morning, and five in the afternoon. 
 
 In superintending the swarming of bees, cover yourself well 
 with thick clothing, tie on a large hat, and put stout gloves on 
 your hands, so as to guard against the danger of feeling their 
 stings, should they become irritated. When the swarm has 
 risen and commenced its flight, it is usual to have a loud noise 
 made by tinkling on frying-pans, pot-lids, kettles, &c., for the 
 purpose of driving them to the nearest settling-place ; otherwise, 
 they may all go oflf to some distant location from whence they 
 cannot be recovered. When well tinkled, they will generally 
 settle somewhere close at hand ; most probably, on the bouglj 
 
KEEPING BEES. 873 
 
 of a tree. If the swarm rests on any thing' that can be brought 
 to the ground, spread under it your large Tinen cloth, and on the 
 cloth lay two sticks two feet asunder. Let some one climb 
 up quietly, cut off that part of the branch of the tree, (if the 
 swarm has settled on it,) and lay it gently on the two sticks 
 placed on the cloth. This may be done without disturbing the 
 bees that are clinging to the bough. Then quickly and dex- 
 terously clap down the hive over the swarm ; fold the re- 
 mainder of the cloth over the whole, and thus carry it cautiously 
 to its station. 
 
 Some hives will swarm twice; the second swarming may be 
 expected within three or four days, but never later than ten 
 days, after the first. 
 
 If a hive divides into two swarms, it is a sign that each 
 swarm has a queen. When a cluster of bees are seen together, 
 forming a knot about the size of a plum, the queen will gene- 
 rally be found there. She is larger than the other bees. 
 Separate them, and with a wine-glass turned downward, you 
 may secure the queen. Put her with a score or two of her 
 subjects into a box perforated with holes large enough to admit 
 air and. yet not to allow the bees to escape. Feed them with 
 honey ; and keep the queen in reserve, in case of the death of 
 a sovereign in one of the hives. When all the bees of a hive 
 cease to work, it is an evidence that their queen is dead ; and 
 the spare queen should then be taken late in the evening, (wet- 
 ting her wings to prevent her escape,) and introduced into the 
 hive ; when her new subjects will receive her gladly, and re- 
 sume their work. 
 
 You may take the honey without destroying the bees, (as is 
 the usual practice,) Isy the following easy method. Dig a 
 snaall pit near the hive bench. Ana have ready a new empty- 
 hive with four sticks laid across the inside, w^hich must be well 
 
 32 
 
374 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 ^ubbed with aromatic herbs. In the evening-, after the bees aie 
 all quietly lodged, approach the hive and turn it gently over 
 into the pit, with its head downwards. Then place against its 
 mouth the mouth of the new hive, adjusting them so nicely 
 that no crack or aperture remains between. While one person 
 nolds the two hives closely together in the above manner, 
 another should take a small stick, and beat gently round the 
 sides of the lower hive for a quarter of an hour or more ; during 
 which time, the bees will all leave their cells in the lower hive, 
 and ascend into the upper one. Then gently lift the new hive 
 with all its little tenants adhering to the interior, and stand it 
 on the bench from whence the other was taken. This should 
 be done about the third week in June, that the bees may have 
 time to make a new stock of honey during the summer. 
 
 Bees can be fed in the winter with refuse honey, after the 
 best has been drained off; and with brown sugar simmered 
 with fresh beer to the consistence of molasses ; allowing a pint 
 of beer to a pound of sugar. This should be introduced into 
 the hive, by means of small wooden troughs put in at the door. 
 
 Nevertheless, a large quantity of good honey in combs will 
 also be necessary to keep them alive during the winter; and 
 their hives should be covered with straw and kept w^arm. 
 
 To strain honey. — Take a knife and cut the combs across 
 into small squares ; lay them in a sieve, and place the sieve 
 over a broad deep pan, and set it in the hot sun or before the 
 fire. When the pieces of honey-comb are well drained on one 
 side, turn them on the other. After the honey has settled, a 
 scum will be found on the top, which must be taken oft. Then 
 transfer the honey to a stone jar, and cover it closely. Put the 
 combs into a thin linen bag, set a vessel under it, and by 
 squeezing and pressing, you may get out some more honey ; 
 wnich, however, will be inferior to that which has run freely 
 
TAKING CARE OF GOLD-FISH. 375 
 
 of itself. It will assist in feeding bees ; or it may be made 
 into a paste with lard or melted spermaceti, and will be good 
 for chapped hands. 
 
 To obtain the wax, take the combs, after all the honey has 
 been extracted from them, and having tied them up in a bag, 
 (placing some pebble stones at the bottom to keep them down,) 
 put the bag into a kettle of cold water, and hang it over the 
 fire. As the water heats, the wax melts and rises to the top, 
 while the impurities remain below. Afterwards, put the melted 
 wax into small saucers, and set it in the air to cool. It will 
 Come out in cakes ; first wrapping round each saucer a cloth 
 dipped in hot water, to loosen the wax. 
 
 TO TAKE CARE OF GOLD-FISH— It is a mistake to 
 suppose that gold-fish kept in glass globes require feeding. 
 They have the singular property of subsisting on the invisible 
 animalculae of the water; and though they will eat bread or 
 vermicelli if given to them, they are much better w^ithout it. 
 It is necessary, however, to change the water every day; as 
 clean fresh water is indispensable to their existence, when 
 confined in a small space. To do this, empty the globe into a 
 large basin, pouring the fish along with the water. Wash the 
 globe very clean inside and out, making it look perfectly bright 
 and clear ; and fill it with fresh water. Then catch the gold- 
 fish in your hand,- (doing it very carefully, to avoid hurting 
 them,) and instantly transfer them to the globe of clean water. 
 Gold-fish, in winter, should always be kept in a warm room. 
 It is not well to have more than two fish in one globe. 
 
 TO MAKE BREAD SEALS— On receiving letters with 
 handsome seals, do not break the wax, but cut round it with 
 a pair of scissors. When you have collected a number from 
 
376 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 which you wish to make bread seals, proceed as follows. Get 
 Si fresh loaf of baker's bread baked that day, and pare off all 
 the crust. Mix in a deep dish, a sufficient quantity of the best 
 Indian ink, by rubbing it with water, so as to form a liquid 
 about the consistence and colour of good writing ink. Then 
 lay aside the cake of Indian ink, and take the crumb or soft 
 part of the bread, a little at a time, and with your hands work 
 it with the black liquid into a stiff dough, working and. knead- 
 ing it well, till thoroughly incorporated. Then divide the 
 black dough into bits about the size of a hickory nut, and form 
 them into the shape of a watch seal. Have ready the wax 
 seals whose impression you wish to take, and press hard upon 
 each of them the large end of one of the bread seals, till the 
 device is deeply stamped. If you do not get a good impression 
 at first, smooth over the surface of the bread seal and press it 
 again upon the wax. When they are all done, and properly 
 stamped, place them on a plate, so as not to touch each other, 
 and set them on a dark cool closet-shelf to dry gradually. If 
 dried in the sun or by the fire, they will crack, and be useless. 
 When perfectly dry, they will be as hard as stones, and may 
 be used like any other seal ; giving a very good impression to 
 the wax, though not quite so strong as that of a cornelian or 
 metal signet. 
 
 After making bread seals, you will find it necessary to use 
 lemon juice or salt of lemon before you can remove the black 
 stain from your hands. 
 
 By means of a bread seal, you may, in answering the letter 
 of a friend, return on the wax the same device that you have 
 received. 
 
 TO MAKE WRITING INK.— Procure at a druggist's 
 four ounces of blue Aleppo nut-galls, as perfect and free from 
 
MAKING WRITING INK. 377 
 
 blemishes as possible ; those that are smallest and bluest are 
 the best. Also half an ounce of copperas ; and half an ounce 
 of fine clean gum arable. Let each of these articles be 
 coarsely bruised or pounded, but do not mix them. Put each 
 mto a separate queensware or earthen vessel. Boil a quart 
 of clear soft water, (not more ;) and when it is scalding hot, 
 pour a pint and a half of it on the bruised nut-galls. Divide 
 equally the remaining half pint, and pour one jill of it on the 
 copperas, and the other jill on the gum arable. Set them all 
 away on a closet shelf, where they will be free from dust ; or 
 cover them closely. Let them stand a week to infuse, stirring 
 them frequently : particularly the gum arable, which, otherwise, 
 will get into a clod. At the end of a week, pour the copperas 
 and the gum arable into the larger vessel that contains the nut- 
 galls, and stir the whole together. Let it stand open for two 
 or three days. Then have ready a clean black botfle that will 
 hold a quart, and drop into it a dozen cloves slightly bruised. 
 Put a funnel into the mouth of it, set a strainer in the funnel, 
 and pour the mixture through them into the bottle. Place the 
 bottle (uncorked) for three or four days in the open air, which 
 will blacken tlie ink. Then cork it, and the ink will be ready 
 for use. The cloves are to preserve it from moulding. This 
 ink will be found excellent ; improving in blackness after it 
 has remained a while on the paper. 
 
 You may make a quart of ink in this manner, at one fourth 
 the cost of the same quantity obtained at a stationer's. 
 
 Before you replenish an ink-stand, empty out the dregs, fill 
 it with warm water, and let it soak a while. Then wash out 
 all the sediment that sticks about the sides and bottom, and 
 rinse ii quite clean ; otherwise the remains of the old ink will 
 thicken and injure the new. 
 
 32* 
 
378 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 RED INK. — Take four ounces of the raspings of Brazil 
 wood ; half an ounce of powdered alum ; and a pint of the 
 best vinegar. Put them into a pipkin, and boil them gently 
 one hour. Let the ink stand for two or three days, to deepen 
 the colour ; then strain it and bottle it for use. 
 
 DURABLE INK. — Put into a two-ounce phial four inches 
 of lunar caustic, first peeling oflf what paper may be sticking 
 about it. Then fill it up with clear, soft, water and cork it. 
 Let it stand three days in the sun, or near a fire, otherwise it 
 will not blacken. This is the marking ink. 
 
 For the sizing liquid, put into a four-ounce phial, an ounce 
 of powdered gum-arabic mixed with a quarter of an Qunce 
 of super-carbonate of soda, and fill up with hot water. Mix 
 them well, and let it stand for three days, stirring it fre- 
 quently. 
 
 Too much soda in the sizing will cause the marking ink 
 to run. 
 
 It is best to mark linen on a dry day. Dip a camel's-hair 
 brush or the feather of a quill into the sizing liquid, and wet 
 with it a place a little larger than is sufficient to contain the 
 name you wish to mark. Then dry it in the sun or by the fire. 
 Next day smooth the place "with a warm iron; and dipping a 
 clean pen into the ink or marking liquid, write with it on the 
 sizing. To get it very hlack^ pour off into a cup the thin 
 liquid from the top; dip your pen into the thick black at the 
 bottom, and write with it. When you have done, return the 
 thin liquid to the ink phial. Place the linen in the sun or near 
 the fire, and after the ink has dried, smooth it with an iron. 
 Next day, wash the marked place in a basin with cold water 
 and Castile soap, to set the colour before it goes into the gene- 
 ral wash. 
 
LIQUID COLOURS FOR MAPS, ETC. 379 
 
 If you find, upon trial, that the ink is not black enough, add 
 an inch more of lunar caustic to the small bottle. 
 
 Durable ink may be extracted from linen, by stretching- the 
 part over a cup of boiling water, and rubbing on it with your 
 finger some oxalic acid or salt of lemon. Then wash the place 
 immediately in warm soap-suds, and rinse it in cold water. 
 
 LIQUID COLOURS FOR MAPS, &c.— To make a fine 
 red colour, take an ounce of powdered cochineal, three-quarters 
 of an ounce of cream of tartar, and a piece of alum the size 
 of a hickory nut; this alum must be finely powdered. Put the 
 cochineal and the alum into an earthen pipkin with rather less 
 than a pint of clear soft water, and boil them for half an hour, 
 stirring in gradually the cream of tartar. Then strain it, and 
 put it away for use in a clean bottle tightly corked. When 
 you go to use it, pour out some into a cup, and dilute it with 
 water, till you get it the tint you want. 
 
 Light Blue Colouring. — Break up a quarter of a pound of 
 blue vitriol. Put it into a pipkin with less than a pint of clear 
 soft water, and set it over hot coals. Add gradually, while it 
 is boiling, two ounces of cream of tartar ; and boil the mix- 
 ture half an hour. Then strain, and bottle it for use. This 
 is a light and beautiful blue. Dilute it with water when you 
 use it. 
 
 Bright Green Colouring, — ^Take some of the above blue 
 vitriol colouring, and melt in it a small lump of gamboge. 
 Then stir it well. ,» 
 
 Fine Yellow. — Dissolve lump gamboge (which must never 
 be pulverized) in soft water. 
 
 Deep Blue Colouring. — Break up a quarter of a pound of 
 indigo, and put it into a large bottle. Pour on it eight ounces 
 of oil of vit-'ol. Cork it, and let it stand a week, shaking it 
 
380 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 several times a day. By diluting- it with water, you may have 
 the colour as pale as you please. By adding gamboge to this 
 blue, you may make a dark green. 
 
 Furple and Lilac. — Mix together the above blue colouring, and 
 the liquid cochineal, diluting it with water to the tint required. 
 
 Brown. — Take three ounces of copperas, break it up small, 
 and boil it in a pint of water for half an hour. Then strain 
 and bottle it. Dilute some of it when you wish a paler tint. 
 
 COLOURING MAPS.— In colouring maps, if you find that 
 the paper (for want of good sizing) is likely to spot or sink, 
 (which you may ascertain by trying it with a little water,) go 
 all over it (previous to colouring) with strong alum-water, 
 washed on with a very large camel's-hair brush. Then dry it. 
 Your colours for washing the land parts of the map must be 
 entirely liquid, and placed beside you in cups. Have also a 
 small pitcher of water to dilute them still more, if necessary. 
 They should be laid on with a large brush, as evenly as possible ; 
 doing all the red at once, then all the blue, then all the yellow 
 &c. Designate the water with light blue carried along tha 
 edge of the land, and shaded off, till nearly colourless. When 
 the different sections of the map are all washed with their re- 
 spective colours, and quite dry, have ready some cake colours 
 rubbed on little plates or saucers, and with a fine camel's-hair 
 pencil, mark out, with a dark shade of each colour, all the 
 boundary outlines. 
 
 A little ox-galJI, infused in the water will greatly brighten 
 the colours, and cause them to flow more easily in the brush, 
 by counteracting the greasiness of the printing ink. 
 
 TO MAKE PAPER TRANSPARENT.— Dissolve some 
 rosin in spirits of wine. Dip into it a camel's-hair brush, and 
 
COURT PLASTER, &C. 381 
 
 with it go over as much of the paper as you wish to make 
 transparent, doing it on both sides. 
 
 A coloured drawing or engraving may be made by this 
 application transparent in those parts where moonlight or fire- 
 light is intended to be very bright. Afterwards, they can only 
 be seen to advantage with a light behind them. The same 
 application is used for transparencies painted on linen or thick 
 muslin stretched on a frame. 
 
 TO MAKE COURT PLASTER.—Stretch tightly, some 
 thin black or flesh-coloured silk in a wooden frame, securing 
 it with pack-thread or small tacks. Then go all over it with 
 a soft bristle brush dipped in dissolved isinglass or strong 
 gum-arabic water. Give it two or three coats, letting it dry 
 between each. Then go several times over it with white of egg* 
 
 TO MAKE POUNCE.— Powder very finely, some gum 
 sandarac — sift it, and put it into a little box. It is used to 
 smooth the paper after scratching out with your penknife a 
 blot or an error in writing. Rub on the pounce with your finger. 
 
 TO PRESERVE PENCIL MARKS.— If you have any 
 thing drawn or written with a lead pencil that you wish to pre- 
 serve from rubbing out, dip the paper into a dish of skimmed 
 milk. Then dry it, and iron it on the wrong side. In ironing 
 paper do not let the iron rest a moment, (as it will leave a 
 crease or mark,) but go over it as rapidly as possible. 
 
382 
 
 SEWING WORK. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 No sort of sewing work can go on well, unless there is at 
 hand a sufficient and well chosen supply of every thing neces- 
 sary to its accomplishment* 
 
 In providing needles, short ones will generally be found most 
 convenient, and their eyes should be rather large. Many of 
 the needles that are put up in assorted quarters of a hundred, 
 are so small as to be of no possible use to any one. There- 
 fore, in buying needles, it is best to select for yourself. Have 
 always some that are very large, for coarse strong purposes. 
 When a needle breaks or bends, put it at once into the fire ; 
 for if thrown on the floor or out of the window, it may chance 
 to run into the foot of some one. It is well to get at least a 
 dozen cotton spools at a time, that you may have always at 
 hand the different gradations of coarse and fine. The fine 
 spools of coloured cotton are far better for many purposes than 
 bad sewing silk; but coloured sewing cotton should only be 
 csed for things that are never to be washed, as it always fades 
 after being in water. Mourning chintz should on no account 
 be sewed with black cotton, as it will run when wet, and stain 
 the seams. The sewing silk now made in America is of ex- 
 cellent quality, and far superior to the imported both in strength 
 and smoothness. Of foreign sewing silk, the Italian is good, 
 provided it is not very fine; in which case, being only two 
 threaded, it will split and ravel, and besides is very weak, 
 
S E WING W O R K. 3^3 
 
 The best English sewing silk is excellent, being both strong 
 and pliable. The India is strong, but harsh, wiry, and unplea- 
 sant to use. It comes in skeins that are twisted up very tightly. 
 Silk is troublesome to wind, and is weakened by the process. 
 It is better to cut the skeins at the tying-place, and put them 
 into long papers. By laying on each other six half-sheets of 
 Jong or foolscap paper, and sewing them together down the 
 middle, as if making a book, and then folding each division 
 lengthways into a thread-paper, you may have a recep- 
 tacle for twelve different skeins of silk; keeping them all 
 compact by means of a narrow ribbon or tape tied round the 
 whole. 
 
 Except for some very slight purposes, it is best to buy no 
 tape that is not twilled. Real linen tape is now scarcely to 
 be found at any price; all that passes for it being only of 
 glazed cotton, therefore, since you must have cotton, it is 
 better to g€t the twilled, as it is very strong, and not apt to 
 break. In buying cotton cord, choose that which is quite small, 
 or, when covered, it will be clumsy; and see that it is clean 
 and of a good white, particularly if intended for muslin; as it 
 will show through the covering, and never wash whiter. It is 
 well to buy a dozen hanks of cord at a time. 
 
 In choosing galloon or silk ferret, inspect it attentively to 
 see if it is not half cotton, instead of being all silk. If there 
 is cotton in it, the colour will be dull, and it will very soon 
 break. Ther^ are thick stout ribbons (usually broad) that have 
 cotton in them, and wear rough and rusty almost immediately : 
 do not buy them. 
 
 You will require several bodkins of different sizes. The 
 smoother they are, the better they will run through the cases. 
 Always get them with a knob at the end. Steel bodkins are 
 more serviceable than those of gold or silver; but in buying 
 
384 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 Steel ones, take care that they are not pewter : this you may 
 ascertain by trying if they will bend. 
 
 You will find it necessary to have three pair of scissors; a 
 large pair for cutting out things that are thick and heavy ; a 
 smaller pair for common use, and a very small pair for work 
 that is nice and delicate. They should all be sharp-pointed. 
 When your scissors begin to grow dull, have them ground at 
 once. The cost will not exceed six cents for each pair, (even 
 if ground at a surgical instrument shop,) and haggling with 
 dull scissors is very uncomfortable work. 
 
 It is well to have always two thimbles, in case of one 
 chancing to be mislaid. When you find that a hole is worn in 
 your thimble, give up the use of it ; as it will catch the eyes 
 of your needles and snap them oflf. 
 
 Keep always coa.rse brown thread in the house ; also hanks 
 of gray, white, and black worsted, for darning winter stockings ; 
 and slack twisted cotton, and strong floss silk, for repairing 
 other stockings. 
 
 As mother-of-pearl buttons have, from their superior durabi- 
 lity, almost entirely superseded the use of thread buttons, it is 
 well to keep a supply of them always in the house, buying 
 several cards at a time. It is a saving of expense, as well as 
 of time and trouble, to buy every sort of sewing material in 
 quantities, as far as convenient. There is also economy in 
 purchasing plain ribbons by the piece, when they are of excel- 
 lent quality. Keep your ribbons always wound on blocks and 
 secured with minikin pins. You can easily obtain blocks from 
 the shops where ribbons are sold. In winding on a block a 
 ribbon that is in two pieces, slip the end of the second piece 
 under the end left of the first, and not over it, or there will be 
 a ridge. 
 
 You should appropriate a box or drawer entirely to the pur- 
 
SEWING WORK. 385 
 
 pose of keeping materials employed in sewing; the articles for 
 immediate use being in your work-basket. 
 
 There are various ingenious needle-books, so contrived as to 
 contain, in a very small compass, all the implements that may 
 be necessary to a lady when she takes her sewing with her on 
 a visit. 
 
 A piece of white wax, for rubbing on a needleful of sewing- 
 silk to strengthen it, is a most useful little article : so also is 
 a small box of prepared chalk, to dip the fingers in when the 
 weather is warm and the hands damp. But, as some portion 
 of the chalk will come off upon your work, it is best to use it 
 only when you are sewing white things. At other times, you 
 will find an emery-bag indispensable. Those that are made for 
 sale have generally so little emery in them, that they are soon 
 found to be useless. It is best to make your own emery-bags ; 
 buying the emery yourself at a druggist's, or at a hardware 
 store. 
 
 We highly recommend a brick pincushion, as an important 
 article of convenience when sewing long seams, running 
 breadths, or hemming ruffles. It is too heavy to overset, and 
 far superior to a screw pincushion, which can only be fixed to 
 a table with a projecting edge. A brick pincushion can be set , 
 any where,. even on a chair; and enables the person who has 
 pinned on it her sewing, to sit always in an upright posture 
 which is a great advantage ; as to be obliged to stoop inces- 
 santly over your work, is extremely injurious to health. 
 
 Get a large clean brick, not in the least broken or scaled off 
 at the edges, and cover it all over with strong coarse tow 
 linen, or thick cotton cloth, sewed on tightly and smoothly with 
 strong thread. Then make a bag of thick linen, allowing it 
 to be two or three inches larger each way thfin the top of the 
 brick. Stuff the bag as hard as possible with bran or with 
 
 33 
 
886 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 clean wool ; (not cotton^ as it will prevent the pins from going 
 in.) You must put in at least two quarts of bran, but most 
 probably more. You- can procure bran at a feed-store, or from 
 a stable. In making this pincushion, you should wear a large 
 apron, and keep the whole apparatus on a waiter or tray. Use 
 a spoon for putting the bran into the bag ; and press it down 
 as hard as possible. When the bag cannot hold any more, 
 even by tight squeezing, sew up the open end. Fit the bag 
 evenly all round to the top of the brick, and sew it strongly to 
 the coarse linen covering. Then sew a piece of green baize 
 on the bottom, where it sits on the table. Afterwards cover 
 the whole pincushion (except the bottom) with thick strong 
 silk, or damask, or some other substantial material. It is best 
 not to ornament it with bows, as your thread may catch round 
 them when you are sewing. 
 
 All mantua-makers and seamstresses should be provided 
 with brick pincushions. They can be made at a very trifling 
 cost : and, with renewed coverings, will last twenty years oi 
 more. 
 
 A smaller pincushion may be made in a similar manner, 
 substituting for the brick a square block of wood. These block 
 pmcushions are not heavy enough to use when .sewing a long 
 seam, but they are very convenient to hold the pins you may 
 want when cutting out and fixing work on a bed ; for, having 
 flat bottoms, they are not liable to roll off. You may also make 
 a very handsome toilet pincushion with a block for its foun- 
 dation. 
 
 MAKING UP LINEN. — In buying linen, select that which 
 (however fine) is thick, and has a round, close thread. If not 
 a perfectly good white at first, let no persuasion induce you to 
 take it; as, whatever you maybe told to the contrary, you will 
 
MAKING UP LINEN. 387 
 
 find that it is beyond the skill of any laundress to whiten it, 
 even by repeated washings, boilings, and spreadings on the 
 grass Much of the linen that is now imported is half cotton, 
 instead of being all flax ; and the deception is so complete, that 
 it is extremely difficult to discover it till after washing and 
 ironing. It will then be evident by the threads being flatter 
 and less glossy than .when all of linen ; also it will be found 
 to w^ear very badly, breaking into slits after being a short time 
 in use. We have seen very fine linen of this sort, that went 
 into slits even while making up, merely in stroking the gathers 
 with the point of a needle. If it is offered for sale considerably 
 under the usual cost of fine linen, you may justly doubt its 
 goodness ; but even when a high price is asked, linen is some- 
 times found deceptive. All fabrics woven of two different 
 materials (as flax and cotton, cotton and silk, silk and worsted) 
 are liable to slit or fray very soon ; the threads of the stronger 
 article wearing out thos^ of the weaker. For a similar reason, 
 what is called lustre silk also wears badly, though, at first, it 
 looks very rich and glossy; but the cross-threads being much 
 thicker than the others, the fine threads are cut and frayed by 
 them in a very short time. 
 
 In choosing linen, you may generally test its goodness by 
 drawing one or two of the threads. If the thread breaks imme- 
 diately, the linen is not good ; either being injured by the pro- 
 cess of rapid bleaching, or having cotton in it. But if you can 
 draw, each way, a thread of a quarter of a yard in length, )'^ou 
 may consider the linen worth buying. When linen is very 
 good, a thread near a yard long may be drawn in it, without 
 breaking. 
 
 Before it is cut out, the piece of linen must always be washed 
 and stretched, to shrink it and take out the stiffening. In 
 making up linen, take care not to sew it with thread or cotton 
 
,388 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 that is too fine; or the stitches, after a few washings, will 
 break, and the seams rip. The stitching, however, should be 
 done with very fine thread. The gathering-thread must be 
 particularly strong ; otherwise it will break, and give you the 
 trouble of doing the gathers over again. Many use white silk 
 for gathering ; but, unless very excellent, it will break as soon 
 as thread or cotton. 
 
 The buttons also must be sewed on with very strong thread. 
 
 TO MAKE A PLAIN SHIRT.— A long piece of yard^ 
 wide linen will make eight shirts for a man of moderate size, 
 and in a plain manner ; and it can be so cut out that not a 
 thread of the linen will be lost. To do this, proceed as follows : 
 
 Take an old shirt, lay it on a bed, and measure froni it the 
 lengths of eight bodies, notching each length with your scissors. 
 Having thus marked the divisions, cut off the whole long piece 
 that you intend for all the bodies. N\)Xt, cut off, from one of 
 the sides of this body-piece, a long straight strip for wrist-bands, 
 shoulder-straps, sleeve-linings, sleeve-gussets, neck-gussets, 
 tail-pieces, and bosom-bits. This strip must be as wide, all 
 the way along, as a wrist-band before it is doubled. 
 
 Take this long strip and (measuring by the pattern shirt) 
 cut off from it sixteen double wristbands and sixteen neck- 
 gussets. The neck-gussets must be cut exactly square, but 
 doubled triangularly when sewed in. The strip that comes 
 off from the side of the neck-gussets is for the sleeve-linings. 
 The remainder will make the bosom-bits and tail-pieces. Then 
 measure, by the pattern shirt, the exact size of the eight collars, 
 and cut them from the large piece of linen that was left after 
 the bodies were taken off. Of yard-wide linen, one breadth 
 across should make three collars. From the remainder of the 
 linen, cut the sleeves according to the pattern-shirt. One 
 
MAKING UP LINEN. 389 
 
 breadth across should make two sleeves. You will find that 
 by exactly following these directions, there will be no clippings 
 or shapings, but every particle of the linen will be turned to 
 account. 
 
 The old shirt must be your model in putting together and 
 sewing the different parts. It is usual to make the bodies first , 
 then the sleeves ; then the collars, wrist-bands, and neck-gus- 
 sets ; and lastly to put all the different parts together. 
 
 For rufiling shirts, a breadth of wide cambric is the usual 
 allowance for each side of the bosom. If the cambric is narrow, 
 allow a breadth and a quarter to each side. If too full, it will 
 not lie smoothly or pleat well. Half a quarter of a yard is a 
 good depth for each frill. This, if the cambric is wide, allows 
 a quarter of a yard to each shirt; being two yards to eight 
 shirt? 
 
 In the room where you generally cut out your sewing-work, 
 you should keep a yard-stick. It is a good practice to measure 
 things as soon as they are brought home ; that if there is any 
 mistake in the quantity, you may discover it at once, and«have 
 It rectified. « 
 
 In teaching a little girl plain sewing, it is not necessary that 
 
 she should begin with a shirt; particularly if she learns at 
 
 tichool, where making a shirt is always a very slow business, and 
 
 where some of the pieces are frequently lost during the process. 
 
 A. much better way is, to let a child practise the varieties of 
 
 plain sewing on a yard of fine shirting muslin, on which her 
 
 instructer may contrive to show her specimens of all the 
 
 different things belonging to shirt-making; such as sewing 
 
 selvage seams; back-stitching and felling; hemming; fine 
 
 stitching; working button-holes ; making gathers and sewing 
 
 them in ; tail-pieces, bosom-bits, neck-gussets, &c. When a 
 
 little girl has successfully accomplished all that can be don« 
 
 33* 
 
&90 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 on one of these preparatory yards of muslin, (or plain-wori 
 samplers,) she Mali find no difficulty in making a shirt. In 
 teaching a young person to cut out linen, you had best let her 
 begin with night-shirts, which (Bxcept that they are now made 
 long enough to descend to the feet) are cut out precisely accord- 
 ing to the foregoing directions for a plain day-shirt. 
 
 SHIRTS WITH BOSOM PIECES.— For a man of mode- 
 rate size, you may take from the side of a piece of yard-wide 
 linen, a strip that will suffice for the wrist-bands ; of course 
 allowing them double. Each body may be measured about a 
 yard in length. 
 
 Cut out of the fore-body of each a square piece, three fingers 
 long and three fingers wide. This square piece, split in two, 
 must be sewed as lining on each side of the back part of the 
 body. The false bosoms, collars, &c., are frequently made of 
 finer linen than the rest of the shirt. The false bosom must 
 be wider on the left side than on the right; for instance, half 
 a yard and a nail (or sixteenth of a yaid) on the left side, and 
 a quarter and a half-quarter on the right. It must have a broad 
 tuck on each side ; and on the edge of the left (where it lies 
 over the right) a broad hem, with a row of stitching near the 
 extreme edge. This bosom piece should be neatly inserted 
 into the square place cut out for its reception, back-stitching 
 and felling it down, and making the seams as small as possible. 
 When sewing it to the two lower corners of the bosom piece, 
 two pleats must be laid in the body of the shirt. The wrist- 
 bands should be cut of a crescent form, and the sleeve gathered 
 into the hollow or concave part. Do not make them bias, oi 
 ihey will stretch out of shape in ironing. 
 
 Shirts made in this manner may either have a collar sewed 
 
M A K 1 X G U P L I N E N. • 391 
 
 on perrnanently, or you may finish them with a binding round 
 the neck, to be worn with a false collar. 
 
 A SHIRT OPEN AT THE BACK OF THE NECK.— 
 
 If the shirts are for a man of moderate size, and the linen is 
 yard-wide, you may, in cutting out the body, (which should 
 be a yard in length,) take a strip off the side for the.wrist-bands, 
 &c. Slit the back of the shirt, down from the neck, about half 
 a yard deep. This slit must be hemmed ; and at its termina- 
 tion a tuck is to be laid all the way down the remainder of the 
 shirt-back. Cut a square piece out of the upper part of the 
 fore-body, (about a quarter and a half-quarter deep, and the 
 same in width,) for the purpose of admitting a full bosom piece. 
 This square piece of linen will come into use for sleeve-linings, 
 shoulder-linings, &c. The bosom piece must be cut about 
 three-quarters wide, and a quarter and a half-quarter deep. It 
 is to be set into the open square made for its reception in the 
 fore-body ; first laying it into three broad pleats of equal size, 
 basting them down till you have fitted the bosom piece and cut 
 out the neck to the proper size. Then close-stitch the pleats 
 all the way down by a drawn thread. Afterwards insert the 
 bosom piece into its place, back-stitching and felling it down 
 neatly, first basting it in. Dispose of the extra width of the 
 fore-body (where it joins the lower part of the bosom piece) by 
 laying small pleats, one at each comer, and two meeting in the 
 centre. Insert into the top of each shoulder (where the collar 
 is to go on) a neck-gusset, gathered a little at the upper edge. 
 Line the tops of the shoulders with an under piece about half 
 a finger broad. 
 
 Gather the back of the neck ; having cut out the front, round- 
 ing it downwards. The neck, both before and behind, must 
 have a binding made of a double piece of linen, about half a 
 
392 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 finger deep when doubled. This bindmg must be a straight 
 band, and should have two buttons and button-holes behind, 
 (one above another,) and directly in front a button to sustain 
 the false collar with which these shirts are always worn. 
 
 The sleeves must be cut quite straight. A breadth of yard- 
 wide linen will make a pair of sleeves. The sleeve-gassets 
 may be a fiijger and a half square. Gather the sleeves at the 
 shoulders and at the wrists. The wrist-bands must be of 
 double linen, (not cut bias,) in depth about a finger. They 
 should be cut spreading or fanning, so as to be wider on the 
 back of the hand than at the wrist, and hollowed out or made 
 concave at the bottom, where they are sewed on to the sleeve- 
 gathers. Round them off at the upper corners, and finish them 
 with a row of fine stitching, a very little distance from the 
 edge. Put a button and button-hole to each. 
 
 No other buttons . are now used for shirts than those of 
 mother-of-pearl. 
 
 TO MAKE A FALSE COLLAR.— Take a straight pie^ 
 of double linen, about two inches deep when doubled, and turn 
 in the edges. This is for the band or basis of the collar, and 
 is concealed under the cravat. For the cheeks or visible part 
 of the collar, cut out two pieces of linen, (with linings for 
 each,) making them about half a finger deep in front, or perhaps 
 deeper. Slope their upper edges down towards the back of the 
 neck, till their depth is reduced to little more than an inch ; 
 and give the lower e.dges a slight curve inwards, where it is to 
 oin the straight neck-band. The front corners that come on 
 the cheeks must be rounded off, and sloped a little inwards as 
 they descend to the neck-band, into which these cheek pieces 
 must be sewed. They must have a row of fine stitching all 
 round, a little distance from the upper edge. Directly in fronJ 
 
MAKING UP LINEN. 393 
 
 of the neck-band to "which they are sewed, make a perpendicular 
 button-hole, to meet the button on the inner binding of the 
 shirt-neck. Strengthen the lower part of this button-hole by 
 sewing a bit of fine tape at its bottom. At the back of the 
 false collar, sew to each end a string of fine tape, (about half 
 a yard long,) to tie it on with. 
 
 For a moderate-sized man, the collar-band may measure 
 somewhat more than a quarter and a half-quarter round the 
 neck. 
 
 A FALSE SHIRT-BOSOM.— Take a piece of yard-wide 
 linen, at least a quarter and a half-quarter in length, and make 
 a narrow hem up each side, slightly sloping them towards the 
 shoulders. Lay ever in the middle a broad tuck, that, when 
 folded or creased down, will be a nail in breadth; and close to 
 it, on both sides, make two smaller tucks, each a little more 
 than an inch broad. The broad or middle tuck must be stitched 
 down permanently, and it should have a row of fine stitching 
 near the folded edge. The other four tucks need only be laid 
 over; basting them down to keep them in place till after they 
 are secured by the bindings at top and bottom. At the bottom 
 put a binding of linen, about an inch and a half broad when 
 doubled ; working a cross-way or horizontal button-hole in the 
 centre of its front, and sewing to each extremity of the binding 
 tape strings about half a yard in length. Bind the neck with 
 a strip of linen, about an inch and a half broad when doubled, 
 and perhaps a quarter and a half-quarter in length ; and make 
 directly in front a cross-way button-hole. Between the neck- 
 binding and the main piece of linen, insert at each shoulder a 
 sm.all single neck-gusset, cut out in a triangular shape, about 
 half a finger each way. Sew on each 6nd of the neck-binding 
 a tape string about half a yard long. 
 
394 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 These false shirt bosoms are, of course, always worn with 
 separate collars tied on above them. 
 
 CHEMISES.— For the body, cut two breadths of yard wide 
 linen into lengths of a yard and a quarter each. This will 
 make a chemise sufficiently long for a middle-sized woman, or 
 for one rather above the middle size. For a small woman, a 
 yard and a half quarter will be long enough. From one side 
 of each breadth, cut a gore to sew on the other side ; thus 
 giving an equal slope to both. The gores should be little more 
 than an inch wide at the top. Pin the selvage sides of the 
 gores to the selvage edges of the linen, lay them evenly on a 
 bed, and slope the gores upwards at the bottom; otherwise, 
 their lower ends will daggle down in peaks. The pieces sloped 
 off the bottoms of the gores must be kept to line the sleeve- 
 holes. 
 
 If the sleeves are to have broad hems, cut them a quarter of 
 a yard deep. One breadth across the linen will make a pair 
 of sleeves, excepting the gussets. If they are to be gathered 
 on an arm-band, a half-quarter and a nail will be a sufficient 
 depth for them. Next, cut out the sleeve-gussets, allowing 
 each a finger square. A breadth across will make four sleeve- 
 gussets and two shoulder-straps. The shoulder-straps should 
 be half a finger broad, (when doubled,) and two fingers in 
 length. 
 
 If you have plain loose sleeves with a broad hem, the che- 
 mise, to correspond, should have the neck or top (it being 
 perfectly straight across, behind and before) simply i'aced on 
 the inside with a fine twilled tape, so as to form a case for a 
 drawing string. If the bottoms of the sleeves are gathered 
 into arm-bands, the neck or top of the chemise body m-ay be 
 gathered also into a band, made to fit the width across, from 
 
MAKING UP LINEN. 395 
 
 shoulder to shoulder; in which case, there must be a slit of a 
 quarter of a yard deep, either down the back, or down the front 
 of the neck, fastening with buttons. Cut this band bias. 
 
 Make the body of the chemise first ; finishing the neck, and 
 putting- on the shoulder-straps. Then have ready the sleeves, 
 and set them into the sleeve-holes left at the two sides. The 
 sleeves should be gathered on the top of the shoulder, and the 
 shoulder-straps felled down upon them, on each side. If there 
 are arm-bands, they should sit loosely round" the arm. Next, 
 take the sloped pieces that came off the bottom of the gores, 
 and with them, line that part of the body that forms the sleeve- 
 holes; carrying down the lining about an inch below the lower 
 corner of the gusset. This will greatly strengthen the part 
 round the sleeve-holes. 
 
 Cut out in the above manner, the whole of the linen will 
 come into use, and there will be no shapings or clippings what- 
 ever. What is called a lojig piece of yard-wide linen, will 
 thus make ten chemises for a woman of moderate size ; with 
 the addition of an extra yard and a quarter to complete the 
 body of the last. 
 
 A lady's chemise may be trimmed with thread edging, Math 
 tetting, or with linen cambric frilling. The frilling, to look 
 neatly, should be very narrow. In fulness, allow it a little 
 more than twice and a half the extent of the parts on which it 
 is sewed. 
 
 For winter, chemises with long sleeves are very comfortable; 
 and are good preventives against rheumatism, particularly 
 when made of fine thick American muslin or domestic cot- 
 ton. These sleeves may be half a yard and half a quartei 
 long; they need not extend down quite so far as the wrist. 
 One breadth of wide cotton, split in half, will make a pair of 
 long sleeves, to which square gussets must be added. Yol 
 
696 * THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 may gather them at the lower part of the arm, as well as at 
 the shoulder ; leaving a small slit, and setting on a band to 
 fasten with a button. Or you may leave them loose at the 
 bottom, merely finishing with a broad hem. In case of illness, 
 it is most convenient to have these long sleeves unconfined at 
 the bottom, that they may be rolled up above the elbow when 
 bleeding is necessary. 
 
 MAKING UP FLANNEL.— No one that can afford the 
 price of fine flannel, should ever buy it coarse. There is no 
 coarse flannel that can be washed without shrinking much 
 more than if it was fine ; also, it is rough and unpleasant to 
 wear, and catches dust and dirt immediately. In purchasing 
 flannel, look particularly at the blue selvage edge ; if that is 
 thin, uneven, and coarse, the flannel is not gooll ; but if the 
 selvage is stout, fine, and close in its texture, you will find the 
 flannel to wear well. For grown persons, always get the wide 
 flannel. Three breadths will make a petticoat for a woman 
 of moderate size ; and if the breadths are a yard and a quarter 
 in length, they will allow three tucks, to be let out suceessively 
 as the flannel shrinks. Before making it up, flannel should 
 always be washed ; first dividing the breadths, but do not cut 
 off the blue selvage till after the washing. 
 
 In sewing flannel, lay the two raw edges one over the other, 
 and run them together along the middle, with short close 
 stitches. Then cat-stitch or herring-bone each of the raw 
 edges down to the flannel, making both sides of the seam 
 exactly alike, and doing it very neatly. In making a flannel 
 petticoat, put one breadth before and two behind. At the top, 
 leave, exactly in front, a quarter of a yard quite plain ; pleat 
 the rest, except just behind, and there gather it. Bind it with 
 white linen, and finish the pleats with a row of close stitching, 
 
MAKING UP FLANNEL. 397 
 
 an inch below the binding. Sew to the binding straps olbroad 
 twilled tape to go over the shoulders ; making the straps long 
 enough to allow the petticoat-binding to be a little below tlie 
 waist of your dresses. It is a good plan to have in the back 
 part of the petticoat-binding two cases, each about a quarter 
 of a yard long, nicely stitched, "with one end of each left open, 
 and an eyelet-hole worked on the outside of the binding at the 
 other termination of the casings. Into these cases, run long 
 strings of twilled tape, in the manner of reticule strings, to 
 draw both ways ; each string being long enough to cross in 
 front, and then go round the waist and tie behind. The loose 
 ends of the strings should have a thick rolled hem, to prevent 
 them, when stretched out, from slipping back into the eyelet- 
 holes. 
 
 Baby's flannel is frequently bound with white ribbon. Many 
 ladies also bind the bottoms of their petticoats with ribbon. 
 It looks very nicely at first, but has the disadvantage of shrink: 
 ing after it is washed, of turning yellow, and of very sooU 
 wearing off, and requiring renewal. 
 
 Flannel shirts, jackets, &c., should be made full large at first, 
 to allow for shrinking. 
 
 All the seams and Jbems of flannel must be made very flat; 
 the hems finished with a row of running close along the edge. 
 None of the raw edges should be turned in and felled down, as 
 it renders them too clumsy. The cat-stitch or herring-bone 
 should be used instead of felling. The slits must all be cat- 
 stitched down, and secured at the bottom with a bit of tape 
 'lewed across. 
 
 In running a tuck, whether on flannel or any thing else, the 
 best way of regulating its width so as to make it all the way 
 precisely even, is to cut out a bit of stiflf card exactly the depth 
 you intend to make the tuck, including the regular distance 
 
 34 
 
398 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 from the hem or from the last tuck below. This distance you 
 may designate by making a notch in the perpendicular edge 
 of the card. Keep this bit of card between the thumb and 
 finger of your left hand, holding it lightly down on the tuck, 
 and moving it along as you proceed. With this guide, it is 
 impossible to run the tucks otherwise than straight and even ; 
 and it precludes the necessity of stopping to measure as you 
 go along. Tucking with a card, is said to be an invention of 
 Dr. Franklin's, who suggested it to his daughter one evening 
 when he observed her taking much trouble in trying to get a 
 tuck even, by measuring it every few minutes with the part 
 already done. 
 
 LADIES' NIGHT-GOWNS.— Night-gowns for summer 
 may be made of narrow-corded cambric dimity, of cambric 
 muslin, or of striped or cross-barred muslin; each of these 
 articles being ell-wide or yard and a quarter, which is the real 
 ^idth of what is called six-quarter muslin. For winter, they 
 are most comfortable of fine, thick American muslin, the widest 
 "yow can get; but it rarely exceeds a full yard in width. 
 
 Where the winters are very severe, night-gowns of wide 
 white flannel are much in use. 
 
 For a moderately tall woman, the length from the neck down 
 to the feet, may be a yard and a half; this will generally allow 
 a good sized hem at the bottom. In making a night-gown of 
 ell-wide or yard and quarter muslin, two breadths will usually 
 be found sufficient for the front and back from the shoulders 
 down. Having measured two breadths, cut a gore from the 
 side of each, not the whole length, but beginning the slope 
 about a quarter and a half-quarter from the top ; so that when 
 sewed on, each gore will commence just below the sleeve hole. 
 JSew the selvage edge of these gores to the selvage or straight 
 
NIGHT-GOWNS. 399 
 
 edge of the breadths ; making the two sloped edges come to- 
 gether, and rounding or sloping up the corners at the bottom, 
 as in a chemise. The two breadths at the top are to be joined 
 together, after sloping the shoulders down from the neck. The 
 slope down from the top of the neck to the top of the sleeve- 
 hole, should not exceed a finger length, or half a quarter. If 
 the shoulders are long, and the sleeve-holes small, (according 
 to the present fashion of day-dresses,) the night-gown will 
 drag down uncomfortably, and the upper part will consequently 
 tear or wear out very soon. Having cut the shoulder slopes 
 exactly even, round out the sleeve-holes ; giving them the same 
 scoop or curve on both sides, and allowing them very large and 
 easy. The length of the sleeves from the top of the shoulder 
 to the hand, may be about three-quarters of a yard. A breadth 
 of what is called six-quarter muslin will make a pair of 
 sleeves; dividing this breadth down the middle into two pieces, 
 and sloping a gore off one side of each piece, to sew^ to the 
 straight side of the other. After these gores are fitted, round 
 oif the tops of the sleeves, but not so much as for a frock ; the 
 front part of each sleeve-top should have a scoop or curve in- 
 ward, the scoop beginning at the seam and going up along the 
 front of the shoulder. All the seams in a night-gown should be 
 back-stitched and felled ; and the shoulders should be strength- 
 ened at the joining-place, by stitching them down upon broad 
 pieces of twilled tape basted underneath. In cutting out the 
 neck, round out the front much more than the back. Cut a slit 
 down the front breadth of the night-gown, a little more to the 
 left side than to the right, so as to allow for a perpendicular 
 tuck to be laid over, all down the front, from the neck to the 
 feet. The length of the slit downwards may be something 
 less than half a yard. On the tuck-side are to be worked half 
 a dozen perpendicular button-holes. The other side is to have 
 
400 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 a facing of muslin the same breadth as the tuck ; the facing to 
 descend an inch or two below the slit, so as to strengthen it at 
 the bottom. On the faced side of the slit, set half a dozen 
 pearl buttons. 
 
 The shape and size of the collar is a matter of taste ; but for 
 a plain square collar, you may have a piece of m.uslin about a 
 quarter of a yard deep and half a yard in width ; if for a broad 
 hem, it must be larger every way. If you wish the collar to 
 sit closely, give it no scoop at the back of the neck, but let it 
 be perfectly straight all along, where it is sewed on to the 
 gathers. Line the collar, not throughout, but merely about 
 half a finger up ; sewing in between the lining and the outside 
 the gathers of the neck. Place a button and button-hole at the 
 bottom of the collar. The sleeves may either be finished with 
 a wrist-band at the bottom, or left loose with merely a broad 
 hem; the latter way is best for convenience. The collar and 
 wrists of a lady's night-gown may be trimmed with frilling of 
 a thinner muslin, or lace-edging. Or, what is much easier 
 and less expensive, they may be finished with points or scol- 
 lops along the edge ; made by laying down a hem on the right 
 side, and, with a bit of card cut into the proper shape, marking 
 the scollops along this hem with a pencil, but not so close as 
 to make them join each other. Then run the scollops along 
 by the pencil-marks, taking very short stitches ; and, when 
 done, cut them out with sharp scissors, a little distance above 
 the sewing. Next turn them over, so as to make them right 
 side out; poking their edges even with the blunt end of a bod- 
 kin slipped inside : and then finish by hemming down the 
 straight edge. 
 
 Instead of sewing the gathers into the collar, night-gowns 
 are very frequently made with what is called a yoke ; that is, 
 a piece of muslin cut bias and made double, and carried ovei 
 
NIGHT-GOWNS. 40 1 
 
 kh€ shoulders. The back and front of the gown, and the tops 
 of the sleeves are gathered into the yoke, which, to look well, 
 should not be too deep. Less than a finger behind, and less 
 than half a finger directly ifi front, will be quite deep enough. 
 The yoke should be corded all round, and have two buttons 
 to fasten it in front. 
 
 For very warm weather, it is well to have some cross-barred 
 muslin night-gowns, with short full sleeves, gathered on a 
 band ; and, instead of a collar, the neck also to be gathered on 
 a narrow band. They will be found very cool and pleasant in 
 ■flights of extreme heat. 
 
 If there is too much fulness in the back of a night-gown, it 
 will drag downwards off the neck behind, and ride up (as it is 
 ■called) at the throat. To avoid entirely this inconvenience, 
 night-gowns, when of six-quarter muslin, are sometimes made 
 with the back-breadth sloped into two very large gores ; sewing 
 them both together by the sloped edges, so as to make a long 
 seam up the middle of the back, from the neck to the feet ; the 
 small ends of the gores coming together at the top, and fitting 
 into the collar or the yoke without having any gathers behind. 
 This manner of cutting increases the width at the bottom of 
 the gown. Where the gore-seam terminates at the lower end, 
 each gore should be sloped considerably upwards ; otherwise 
 they will hang down in an awkward point. 
 
 Loose gowns of black India silk are very convenient. For 
 winter they should be lined all through with slate-coloured 
 glazed muslin. 
 
 DOUBLE WRAPPERS.— These may be cut out in the 
 
 same manner as night-gowns. If made of calico or gingham, 
 
 it is best to have both lining and outside of the same material. 
 
 The seams are all inside, so as to have no raw edges. If 
 
 3.1* 
 
402 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 intended chiefly for comfort, (as all wrappers ought to be») il 
 is best to make them loose all the wa)'- down, without attempt- 
 ing any thing like a body ; as is sometimes done by having a 
 plain back, with a case at the bottom, set on a gathered skirt 
 behind. These backs never look even tolerably well, unless 
 they are drawn in tightly to the waist, and worn with a belt 
 and over corsets ; all which, if the wrapper is designed for a 
 garment of ease, will defeat the purpose. 
 
 QUILTED WRAPPERS.— These, the warmest of all 
 wrappers, are extremely convenient to slip on in case of being 
 called up in a cold night, or after coming home late in a winter 
 evening to wear while preparing for bed ; also for many other 
 purposes. They are generally made of dark calico, which 
 should have no white in the figure ; and it is best to have them 
 lined with the same. A light-coloured lining looks soiled 
 almost immediately ; and a lining of glazed muslin should on 
 no account be put in, as none of these muslins will bear wash- 
 ing ; for their colour, when wet, will run in streams, and spoil 
 the outside of the wrapper. Quilted wrappers are generally 
 cut so as to wrap over very much to one side, and are left open 
 all the way down, so as to be easily slipped on. There should 
 be no gathers or pleats at the top, either behind or before ; as 
 the wadding will make any fulness there uncomfortably clumsy. 
 By sloping the back from below the arm-holes upwards, you 
 can have it qiiite plain at the place where the collar goes on. 
 The collar should be a square turn-over, sitting closely to the 
 back of the neck. The sleeves ought to be long, wide, and 
 set high up on the shoulders, with a large easy arm-hole. 
 
 After the whole has been cut out, and the breadths sewed 
 together, lay the wadding (it should be white, thick, and not 
 split) between the lining and the outside, and quilt it in largt 
 
. NIGIIT-CAPE AND HOOD. 403 
 
 diamonds, with long needlefuls of dark-coloured silk. Then 
 quilt the sleeves and the collar, and when done put them toge- 
 ther. Some persons find it more convenient to quilt ail the 
 breadths separately. The quilting may be done either in a 
 frame or on a large table. 
 
 If made of proper materials, a quilted wrapper may be washed 
 as often as necessary, in the same manner as a bed-quilt. 
 
 A NIGHT-CAPE. — These are very convenient for ladies 
 to wear when going to or returning from a summer evening 
 party; or upon any occasion when a cloak would be too warm, 
 and when a shawl would crush the upper part of the dress. 
 The skirts of two left-ofF silk dresses will make a night-cape, 
 which should be very large, "So as to cover lightly nearly the 
 whole of the arms, as well as the shoulders and back. 
 
 Having ripped apart the skirts of two dresses, let the silk be 
 sprinkled and ironed smoothly. Then lay the breadths of the 
 outside together, so as to form an exact square, as large as you 
 can get it. Do the same with the breadths of the silk that is 
 to form the lining. Having run all the seams, and pressed 
 them with a warm iron, (wetting them first with your finger 
 dipped in water,) baste together the two squares of silk, and 
 cut them into an exact circle. In the centre cut a round hole 
 to admit the neck, and then split the front of the cape straight 
 down ; afterwards sloping it upwards a little, where it meets 
 at the bottom. Cord the edge all round, and bind the neck 
 with a band of the same silk. You may fasten it down the 
 front either with buttons or with strings of ribbon. 
 
 TO MAKE A LADY'S HOOD.— Get a yard and a half 
 of wide dark coloured silk for the outside, an equal quantity 
 of light-coloured silk for the lining, and four yards of narrow 
 
404 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 mantua ribbon, the colour of the lining ; three ounces of eider- 
 down, (which you may obtain from a furrier;) four slips of fine 
 light bonnet-cane ; sewing silk to match the outside ; and a 
 yard and a half of broad mantua ribbon for strings, also the 
 colour of the outside. For the main part of the hood, take 
 three quarters and a nail, or an exact square of the silk, to be 
 cut after you have laid it bias, as both lining and outside are 
 to be cut so. At the part which ascends from the back of the 
 neck to the back of the head, cut a slope upwards, about a 
 finger in length. Next, hem down upon the lining the outside 
 silk along the front edge of the hood, along one of the' sides, 
 and at the back edge ; and run, at equal distances, three oi 
 four small double casings, which must go horizontally or across 
 the silk, so as to form it into divisions. When these are done, 
 take the eider-d®wn, open the end of the paper bag that con- 
 tains it, and pour it carefully, and in equal portions, into each 
 of the divisions that you run in the silk. When you have got 
 all the eider-down in, secure it by running together the side of 
 the hood that was left open to admit it. Then put drawing 
 strings of the narrow ribbon (the colour of the lining) into the 
 casings, bringing out the strings so as to tie at the side and 
 not in the middle. In the last or farthest back casing, run a 
 slip of cane about three quarters and a nail in length, and draw 
 up the silk full upon it ; bending the cane round into a circle, 
 and securing it well at both of its ends. Sew up the slope at 
 the hind part of the hood, and whip over with a gathering 
 thread the edge of the remaining silk ; drawing it all as close 
 as possible, till the whole edge is brought together in one place 
 at the back of the head. Next, draw the cases to the fulness 
 you wish, by pulling the ribbon that is run in them ; and then 
 slip in, between the lining and the outside, three or four canes, 
 as long as the full width of the silk. These canes go alter- 
 
A lady's HOOD. 405 
 
 nately with the drawings, arching- up, with the silk stretching 
 plain over them. Tack the canes here and there to the lining, 
 and secure them well by making a little split at each of the 
 ends, and sewing them fast to the silk. 
 
 Afterwards, bind with a narrow strip of lined silk, about an 
 inch broad, the tAvo sides of the hood where they come down 
 on the neck ; gathering them to fit the binding, which should 
 be about a quarter and a half quarter in length, so as to fit the 
 neck of the wearer and meet under her chin. To the lower 
 edge of this binding sew on the cape, gathering it to fit. The 
 cape must be made bias ; and when lining it, leave one end 
 open till after you have poured in some eider down. Of the 
 remaining silk make a large bow (edged with a bias binding) 
 to go at the back of the head, on the place where all the gathers 
 meet in a centre. Sew short strings of the narrow ribbon along 
 the inside of the neck-binding, so as to meet each of the ends 
 of those strings that draw the casings, and tie with them. 
 Lastly, sew on the broad strings that are to tie the hood under 
 the chin. 
 
 These are the most convenient hoods that are made ; as they 
 can be drawn up or let out so as to go over any head, even 
 when drest high, or with a cap or turban. And being stuffed 
 with eider-down, they are so light that they never crush or dis- 
 compose any thing that is beneath them. If wadding is sub- 
 stituted for eider-down, it must be basted to the lining, and the 
 casings run afterwards. 
 
 There should be no trimming along the front edge of a hood, 
 as it is apt to catch in the hair. 
 
 To look well, the outside and the lining of a hood should be 
 so contrasted as to harmonize well in colour. For instance, a 
 purple silk outside, with a lining of pale blue, light yellow, 
 gold colour, or buff colour ; or a dark brown, ox slate-coloured 
 
406 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 outside, with a pale pink or light blue lining. A black hood 
 may be lined with gray, pale blue, or pink : an olive-coloured 
 outside with either light pea-green, pale pink, or light lilac. 
 
 If properly taken care of, and not exposed to rain, a well- 
 made hood of new silk will last a great many years. 
 
 A summer hood maybe made in the same manner as one for 
 winter : but, of course, without eider-down or wadding. 
 
 HINTS ON DRESS-MAKING.— Notwithstanding the 
 almost incessant changes of fashion, there are certain general 
 rules in the art of mantua-making that never vary, and which 
 it may be well to point out for the instruction of those who are 
 desirous of making their own dresses. Young persons who 
 live in the country will find it very convenient to have some 
 knowledge of the manner of accomplishing this business; and 
 even in cities there are many who, from considerations of eco- 
 nomy, might be glad to understand as much of the art as would 
 enable them to cut out and put together at least their common 
 dresses : which often, when done by a mantua-maker, cost more 
 for the making than the price of the material. 
 
 In purchasing a dress, always get what is called a large 
 pattern ; that is, an ample allowance of the stuff. What is left 
 will no doubt come into use for altering, mending, renewing 
 cuffs, &c. ; or perhaps it may be wanted for a new body. Also, 
 if a dress is scantily made, it will never look well, howevei 
 expensive the material ; particularly if the skirt is too narrow^ 
 
 In buying silk, you can best ascertain its thickness by hold- 
 ing a part of it between your eyes and the light. If very stiff, 
 it is highly gummed, and therefore cannot wear wxll, as the 
 gum will cause it to cut or split at the pleats or gathers. Soft 
 thick silks, with both sides alike, cut- out the most advanta- 
 geously, and wear the best. Figured or flowered silks look 
 
^ HINTS ON DRESS-MAKING. 407 
 
 beau ifully for a short time; but in consequence of then flos- 
 siness, the sprigs soon begin to wear rough, and the spaces 
 between them seem to contract and appear shrivelled. This 
 is the case with most silks whose figure is embossed or thrown 
 up on the outside. What are called watered silks look, after 
 a while, as if they had been literally watered or wetted all 
 over. The gros-de-nap silks that are now imported, are so 
 narrow, thin, and stiff, that they are rarely worth buying. A 
 good double Florence or Marcelline is much better for an eco- 
 nomical silk dress. Reps silk of the best quality is soft, glossy, 
 and wears well : so does gros d'Afrique, and so does Turkish 
 satin, which is a thick, soft, twilled silk. English satin is 
 very superior in quality to the French. Satin is very liable to 
 fray on the surface, and if not of the best sort, it wears badly. 
 For a very lasting dress, nothing is more durable than a thick, 
 double width, India black satin ; and it is well worth its price. 
 The best India senshaws wear well, and are not apt to stain ; 
 but the colours are seldom handsome, and the texture, though 
 thick, is rarely fine. They are yard-wide, and very good for 
 lining cloaks and pelisses. In buying plaid silks, avoid those 
 that have any white in them, as they look soiled almost 
 immediately. A plaid dress will make a short woman appear 
 much shorter. Ladies who are no longer young always look 
 best in dark-coloured dresses, whatever may be the material ; 
 and when decidedly old, there is no colour so proper for theru 
 as black. 
 
 Ladies with hair inclining to auburn should avoid bulf-colour, 
 fawn-colour, and all shades of yellow, pink, or scarlet. To 
 them, white, black, slate-colour, dark brown, purple, lilac, blue, 
 and pea-green are most becoming. A brunette ought not to 
 wear gray, or lilac, or grass-green. To all persons that are 
 very pale, every shade of green or blue is unbecoming. Young 
 
408 THE HOUSE BOOK-. 
 
 ladies who have dark hair and fair complexions, (a rare bill 
 beautiful combination,) may wear any colour whatever. To 
 very young girls no dress is so becoming as white, particularly 
 in summer. In buying white silks or ribbons, choose only 
 such as are called a dead white. Pearl-white and rose-white 
 are the worst possible tints to go next the skin, whatever may 
 be the complexion of the wearer. There are many shades of 
 yellow that at night resemble a bad white; and many of 
 light green that, except in day-time, look like a bad blue. 
 Purples at night may frequently be mistaken for a dull black. 
 Lilac is a very bad night-colour. So is olive. 
 
 Merinoes, chalys, and mousselines de laine, if they are not 
 of the very best quality, soon begin to look rough and soiled, 
 catching the dust immediately. In selecting painted muslins, 
 chintzes, and ginghams, ask for a little slip as a sample, and 
 try how it will wash and iron before ^ou purchase the dress. 
 Give it a fair washing in a little warm soap-suds, rinse it in 
 cold water, and then dry and iron it. There are certain shades 
 of light blue, pink, yellow, and green, that bear washing very 
 well, but change immediately when ironed. All cotton fabrics 
 are best for having little or no glazing or stiffening. If the 
 figure is nearly as distinct on the wrong side as on the right, 
 it is an evidence that it is well printed, and not likely to 
 wash out. 
 
 In buying velvet, see that the wrong side is of silk, as well 
 as the right, and not of cotton, as is frequently the case. If 
 of cotton, it will wear badly, and the colour will rub off. 
 Velvet, to wear well, should be soft as well as thick, and th€ 
 ground well covered with the pile. A velvet dress is very 
 liable to crease behind, the marks of the creases showing very 
 plainly. To prevent this, let the skirt be very full, and the 
 hind-breadths wadded and lined. As a velvet dress is nevei 
 
HINTS OS DRESS-MAKING. 409 
 
 worn in warm weather, the wadding will be no inconve- 
 nience. 
 
 The best lining for the skirts and sleeves of dresses is either 
 paper-muslin or the stiff coarse book-muslin that comes for the 
 purpose; The skirt of any dress that is not to be washed, will 
 last much longer, and keep clean better, if lined throughout. 
 In case it should require turning, a merino pelisse or cloak 
 should always have a thin lining interposed between the wad- 
 ding and the outside ; otherwise, when taken apart to be turned, 
 it will be found impossible, by any process, to get the shreds 
 of cotton entirely off. Even washing the merino will not 
 remove them. In basting wadding to a lining, use always 
 strong sewing silk ; as cotton thread (when the stitches are 
 very long) is apt to break after being worn a while, and then 
 the 'wadding gets loose. Take very long needlefuls ; and 
 when you begin with a new one, tie its end firmly in a knot to 
 that of the last. Let the basting stitches go in waves up and 
 down, catching the lining slightly, but securing at equal dis- 
 tances every part of the wadding. If you split the wadding, 
 lay the split side next to the lining, the glazed side uppermost. 
 
 Ladies would do well to make common cause in pretesting 
 
 against the practice that prevails in many of the stores, (we 
 
 should be sorry to find it universal,) of using printed paper for 
 
 wrapping up articles that are purchased there, even when those 
 
 articles are white, light-coloured, and cannot be washed. The 
 
 liability of printing ink to rub off is proved whenever we take 
 
 a newspaper into our hands ; and therefore it is of all things 
 
 the most unfit for enclosing silks, laces, ribbons, &c. Indeed, 
 
 there is nothing whatever that may not be more or less soiled 
 
 by putting it up in newspaper. A constant and liberal stpply 
 
 of the soft paper made expressly for wrapping, (and which can 
 
 be purchased by the quantity at a very trifling cost,) ought to 
 
 35 
 
410 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 be considered by all store-keepers as a part of. their necessary 
 expenditure ; and to have 'every article put up in a neat and 
 proper manner, and so that it can receive no injury on its way 
 home, is a duty they owe to their customers. If every lady 
 would make a point of remonstrating, when she sees an' article 
 that she has purchased wrapped up in a piece of printed paper, 
 we think this grievance would soon cease. 
 
 THE BODY OF A DRESS.— In commencing a dress the 
 first thing is to fit and cut out the body-lining, which should 
 always be made of good linen ; as linen that is thin and coarse, 
 will stretch out of shape when the outside is putting on, and 
 shrink very much on being washed. For a white dress, or any 
 one that is to be washed, the lining must be of linen that is 
 perfectly white; otherwise the brownish tint, however pale, 
 will show through. For a dark silk or merino dress, the lining 
 may be of fine brown holland. A yard of linen will make a 
 body-lining for a person of moderate size, and it must be quite 
 smooth when you cut it; not in the least rumpled or creased. 
 The person to be fitted, should wear at the time one of her 
 best setting dresses. Over the fore-body of this, let the linen 
 be pinned, placing it bias, and putting several pins at the shoul- 
 ders, sides, and waist. Fold over at the bottom of the waist, 
 •two very large pleats slanting upward, and diminishing gradu- 
 ally to a point as they ascend to the bosom. If these pleats 
 are small and narrow, the dress will inevitably be too tight 
 across the front ; compressing the bosom painfully, and making 
 it look flat and contracted. This is a very common fault with 
 dress-makers, who depend entirely on giving an artificial fulness 
 to the bosom, by means of wadding. The fore-body leaves 
 off at the shoulder-seams, and after it is fitted, the back should 
 be done. The lining of the back must be cut straight-way of 
 
HINTS ON DRESS MAKING. 41 
 
 t\je linen, (not bias,) and it must be pinned very smoothly on 
 the back of the dress worn at the time by the person for whom it 
 is intended ; allowing sufficient everywhere for turning in, and 
 for outlet if the dress should afterwards be found too tight. The 
 lining must be allowed longer in the waist than the model dress, 
 as it takes up greatly in sewing on the skirt. For a person of 
 hollow back and taper form, the side-seams should have a con- 
 siderable slope inwards from the arm-hole, to the lower extre- 
 mity of the waist; otherwise, the dress will not set well in to 
 the lower part of the back, even when made very tight. Where 
 the waist is thick, the slope inwards should be less ; and some 
 figures require none at all. If the back of the person is rather 
 round, or the shoulders very prominent, (as they frequently 
 become, from habitually compressing the waist to excessive 
 tightness,) the body should be cut considerably longer behind, 
 so as to allow sufficient space for the projection of the shoulders. 
 When the back is flat and straight, the body need be no longer 
 behind than at the sides. Be very careful not to cut the body- 
 lining too short either behind or before ; for to all figures, a 
 short waist is unbecoming. In cutting out the sleeve-holes, 
 notch them in front, and allow them sufficiently easy ; particu- 
 larly, just under the arms. Give the shoulders a considerable 
 slope inwards towards the neck ; otherwise the dress will set 
 too loose about the upper part. Next, with a piece of tape, 
 measure the length of the skirt from the waist behind, down 
 to the heels, allowing sufficient for the hem or facing. 
 
 After the lining has been fitted and cut out over the model- 
 dress, take it off and baste it together; also basting down the 
 large pleats. Then let it be tried on, and fitted a second time 
 upon the corset only. This is the time to remedy any faults 
 in the cutting out or basting together. If it is found too loose 
 about the upper part of the back, slope it in a little more 
 
412 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 towards the neck. If the top of the front is too loose, slope 
 that also a little more in to the neck. If too tight, let it out 
 sufficiently, by opening the shoulder-seam. Should the lower 
 part of the back be too loose, take it in a little at the side-seam 
 under the arms. If the waist is too tight, let it out at the side- 
 seam of the fore-body ; or it may be necessary to let out both 
 the back and the fore-body. A dress, to fit well, should have 
 no wrinkle whatever under the arms, or indeed in any place 
 where it ought to be perfectly smooth. A body will frequently 
 set badly, not because it is too loose, but from the sleeve-hole 
 being so small that the dress cannot be got on sufficiently ; 
 causing it to hang off and wrinkle down. When this is the 
 fault, the remedy, of course, is to enlarge the sleeve-hole. 
 When sleeve-holes are found too tight, cut them away first in 
 front and under the arms, and then round them off nicely at the 
 back. If left too tight when the lining is cut out, they will 
 not be any looser when the dress is finished ; as the ridge made 
 by the seam in putting in the sleeve, always fills up whatever 
 space is allowed for the sewing. When the fitting of the lining 
 is finished, do not, after stitching them down, trim off the inside 
 folds of the large pleats, but allow them to remain uncut : in 
 case it should, at any time, be found necessary to let them out 
 for the purpose of enlarging the body. They can be made to 
 lie perfectly flat, by felling down the folded edge on the inside. 
 In making the fore-body of a dress, the silk or other material 
 that constitutes the outside, should always be cut precisely bias ; 
 otherwise, neither the pleats or gathers, nor indeed any part ofj 
 the front can set well. To do this, fold one corner quite sharp, 
 and make the middle of the fold lie exactly even. If the silk 
 is not wide enough for z. perfect bias, join it at the selvage to 
 another selvage piece running just the same w.iy. An imper- 
 fect bias causes the pleats to twist or warp, and Ine wliole to 
 
HINTS ON DRESS-MAKING. 413 
 
 go wrong and unevenly. In cutting the outside of the fore- 
 body, see that there is amply sufficient, l)oth in length and 
 breadth, for all the pleats or gathers ; allowing it wider con- 
 siderably at the top than at the bottom. If the dress is of a 
 material that is to be washed, the upper part of the fulness 
 should be gathered ; as loose bias pleats ca«»ot be ironed to 
 look well, or even tolerably ; the lower part of a gathered front 
 may be stitched closely down. Wherever there are gathers 
 on a dress,..make them small, and stroke them as neatly as in 
 making up linen. The pleats should be laid smooth and even, 
 so that no part of them may twist or stand off even in the smallest 
 degree. Baste or run them down to the lining, concealing the 
 stitches of each pleat under the pleat that falls over it. If there 
 is to be wadding at the bosom, you may insert it between the 
 lining and the outside, before you cord the neck. But the best 
 way is to put it on after the body is finished. To do this, cut 
 ottt two circular pieces of wadding, of sufficient size ; lay on 
 each of them another round piece about an inch smaller in 
 circumference ; upon that put a third, fourth, fifth, and sixth 
 round piece, each diminishing in size, till the last is no larger 
 than a cent. Baste each of these piles of wadding upon a 
 circular piece of white glazed muslin ; notching the edges of 
 ^.he muslin, and turning them in. Then sew them to the lining 
 of the body, so as to have the wadded pieces next the corset, 
 and not between the lining and the outside. 
 
 In stitching down the lower part of the pleats, (where they 
 diminish in width towards the waist,) make a second row of 
 Btitching on the extreme edge of each. A fore-body to set off 
 the figure, should fan very much ; the pleats or gathers spread ^ 
 mg full above, so as to give breadth to the chest, and narrowing 
 into a very small compass at the bottom of the waist, where 
 they meet in the centre. The space on each side of the pleats 
 
 35* 
 
414 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 should set perfectly smooth to the waist, and be quite free froin 
 wrinkles. 
 
 The outside of the back must be cut straightway of the stuff 
 like the lining. For a full back, (they are sometimes in 
 fashion,) the lining must be tight ; but the outside must be cut 
 large enough tqn^allow of gathers at the lower part and shoul- 
 ders. A fall back gathered into the middle of the neck rarely 
 sets well ; the gathers should fan from the shoulders down to 
 the waist. Great care must be taken in making ^ full back, 
 not to let it puff out in the middle ; a most disfiguring fault, 
 and one to which full-backed dresses are very liable. The 
 gathers should be small and nicely stroked. If the back is 
 gathered, the sleeves and skirt should be gathered also. 
 
 It is now usual to have no seams in the backs of dresses, 
 except under the arms ; but some persons still prefer having 
 the form or shape designated by two narrow bias folds, begin- 
 ning just below the middle of the back part of the sleeve-hole, 
 and descending to the waist, where at their termination, the 
 space between diminishes to about half a finger in width. 
 These narrow bias folds are finished with a cording. To put 
 them on, baste them down on the back of the dress after it has 
 been lined, giving them a slight curve, and then sew them on 
 with the lining next to you ; keeping the needle and thread on 
 the lining side, and catching the under part of the bias fold as 
 you take the stitches through. 
 
 A cording must be let in at the shoulder where the back is 
 joined to the fore-body. 
 
 In putting whalebones into the body of a dress, use none tha/ 
 are not perfectly straight and even ; if in the least crooked, 
 they will cause a drawing or puckering of the outside. It if 
 usual to have a whalebone up the middle of the front ; one, or 
 perhaps two, at each side of the fore-body running in the same 
 
HINTS ON DRESS-MAKING. 415 
 
 direction as the large pleats in the lining, and extending up as 
 far as the bosom, but not over it. Also a whalebone at each 
 of the side-seams under the arms, and up the outer edges of 
 the back, whsre the hooks and eyes are. It is not a good way 
 to run in the whalebenes between the lining and the outside of the 
 dress, as their ends very soon wear through the outside. Make 
 a case for each whalebone, by sewing a piece of strong twilled 
 tape upon the body-lining. Then slip in the whalebone, and 
 secure it well at the ends. Finish the lower part of the body, 
 with a cording felled down on the inside ; and do the neck in 
 the same manner. It must also be corded and faced up both 
 sides of the back. Merino and mousseline de laine dresses 
 must be corded with thick silk, as the worsted stuff is too 
 clumsy, and besides will soon fray off. Velvet and satin also, 
 must have silk cording. If you cannot match the dress exactly 
 with the proper shade of silk for cording, get the cording-silk 
 a little darker rather than lighter. So also the sewing silk. 
 
 The covering for cord should be cut into long slips, all of 
 them exactly bias; otherwise, it will pucker and not set 
 smoothly when sewed on. "Where it is necessary to join the 
 covering, fold in the end, and lay the piece neatly over the end 
 of the piece that you have last put on the cord. Never use 
 black cotton cord, except for black silk dresses. If you put it 
 in a mourning chintz, as soon as it is washed the black cotton 
 dye will come through the covering of the cord, and run in 
 streaks about that part of the dress, so as to spoil it irrecover- 
 ably. For a corded facing, cut the covering considerably 
 broader, and sew in the cord nearer to one edge than to the 
 other, felling down the broad part upon the inside. When you 
 sew on cording, ho? d the dress next to you, and take the switches 
 very short, and close, and quite through. Silk that is bought 
 tor cording, must be very stout ; otherwise, it will soon wear 
 
116 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 off, the cording being- generally the first thing about the dress 
 that requires renewing. After cutting out a dress, take care 
 of all the shapings or scraps, however small, as they may 
 afterwards come into use for cording and other purposes. 
 
 Where the body of a dress is open at -the back, each side 
 should have a facing at least an inch deep, felled down upon 
 the lining. 
 
 In plaid silk or gingham, take care that all the checkers are 
 made to match exactly, otherwise the effect will be very bad. 
 Wherever there is a join, it is better to cut off a portion from 
 one piece or the other, than to allow the checks to come wrong. 
 A perpendicular stripe of the checker should always go directly 
 up the middle of the back, and the cross stripes should be made 
 to match precisely. The same accuracy is to be observed in 
 making a dress of a striped material. 
 
 In sewing on hooks and eyes, use very strong silk, and put 
 the hooks on the right side and the eyes on the left. For the 
 sleeves, they should be of the very smallest size. If, instead 
 of eyes, you work little loops in button-hole stitch, make them 
 very strong, or they will soon wear out and break. The hooks 
 must be sewed on the inside or lining ; the eyes, or loops, on 
 the outside. Never use sewing silk lighter than the dress. 
 
 THE SLEEVES OF A DRESS.—After you have fitted 
 the body-lining, take the measure for the sleeves by means of 
 a piece of tape from the arm-pit to the wrist, allowing a little 
 extra length as it will take, up in sewing. If the sleeve is too 
 short on the inside of the arm, it will give a very awkward 
 appearance to the wrist, exposing it bare whenever the arm is 
 in the least extended, besides feeling most uncomfortably. 
 We have seen sleeves in which this defect (shortness of the 
 mder side) wafe so great, that after the dress was on it was 
 
HINTS ON DRESS-MAKING. 417 
 
 impossible to raise the hand higher than the waist, the arma 
 appearing as if skewered down to the sides. The remedy, 
 when the sleeve is too short, is to put an addition to the cuff 
 at the wrist ; or else to take out the sleeve at the shoulder, rip 
 it down the seam for about half a yard, and then cut a piece 
 from each side, which (though making the upper part of the 
 sleeve narrower) will add something to its length, under the 
 arm, when it is set in again. If the design of the sleeve will 
 permit, it is perhaps best to increase its length by adding a 
 cuff to the bottom, concealing the join under a band. 
 
 IF you wish the sleeve to set off very much from the elbow, cut 
 it very long on the top of the shoulder, and give it a great curve 
 along the inside of the arm. On the contrary, if you desire 
 that it should hang straight, give the inside but very little slope. 
 
 In cutting out sleeves, fold over the material into an exact 
 bias ; and if not wide enough at the top, cut a piece to join on, 
 making both selvages come together. This seam or join had 
 best go at the back of the sleeve. When the material is very 
 narrow, it is necessary to join the upper part of the sleeves 
 both at the back and front. That side of a bias sleeve where 
 the threads run straight-way, must be put front, or next the 
 fore-body ; the cross-way side must go next the back : this is 
 very important to the set of the sleeve. The top or shoulder 
 part must be rounded at the back, and hollowed a little at the 
 front, where it is sewed into the sleeve-hole. The linings 
 should be cut out with the sleeves, and exactly of the same 
 size and form. Coloured linings (unless of silk) are apt to 
 rub off on the arm. White paper muslin, as it is called, is the 
 best for sleeve-linings of a dress that is not to be washed. Foi 
 a dress that may be washed, it is better that the linings should 
 be separate from the sleeves, making them of cheap white 
 cambric muslin. Gather these extra linings at the top into a 
 
418 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 band, and at the bottom into a wrist-band : they must not be 
 so long as to appear at the slit of the lower part of the outer 
 sleeve. Each of these sleeve-linings should have four tape 
 strings sewed at equal distances to the binding at the top, to 
 be tied to corresponding strings sewed inside of the arm-hole 
 of the dress. Separate sleeve-linings are very convenient for 
 any description of dresses, as they can be worn or not, accord- 
 ing to the temperature of the weather, and can also be washed 
 when soiled. If a permanent lining is put into any part, of a 
 sleeve that is to be washed, it must on no account be of a 
 coloured material, as, in washing, the colour will run through 
 to the outside. 
 
 After the sleeves of a dress are cut out, the pleats, gathers, 
 bands, straps, &c., must all be made and put on before the 
 seams are sewed up ; otherwise it will be impossible to get 
 any of those decorations even ; besides that it is much easier 
 to do them when the sleeve is spread out flat, than after its 
 sides are closed up. Where the slit or opening comes at the 
 wrist, put on each side a broad facing, felled down upon the 
 lining, no part of which ought by any chance to be apparent 
 when the dress is on. Make the pleats or gathers very even 
 and regular, and baste or run them down under the bands. If 
 there are no bands, close-stitch the pleats as neatly as possi- 
 ble. If there are bias folds as sleeve-trimmings, let the strips 
 of which they are made be cut an exact bias ; and in sewing 
 them on to the cord by which they are finished, hold the folded 
 piece rather loose or easy, and see that you do not get it twisted 
 or warped in the slightest degree, otherwise it will look very 
 badly. When all the rest of the sleeve is finished, baste a 
 cording all along one side, and then hold the edge of the other 
 side even with it, and run them both together with close short 
 Btitches, going as near the cord as possible. In setting in 
 
HINTS ON DRESS-MAKING 419 
 
 the sleeves, baste a cord all round the arm-hole, beginning and 
 finishing at the side-seam under the arm ; then close-stitch the 
 sleeve all round, leaving the cord to appear as a finish on, the 
 outside If you afterwards find the sleeve too long on the 
 inside of the arm, open a few inches of the seam about the 
 hend of the elbow, remove a piece of the cording, and join it 
 again neatly over a few little pleats or gathers. This will draw 
 up and shorten the sleeve without being noticed. Allow tne 
 sleeves full large at the wrists ; for if too tight, they will not 
 only feel uncomfortably, but cause the hands to swell and 
 look red. 
 
 You may occasionally wear white sleeves with a silk dress, 
 by having the silk sleeves so made as to be taken out and 
 replaced at pleasure. To do this, have the arm-hole finished 
 with a cord and facing,, felled down on the lining ; and the top 
 of the sleeve finished in the same manner with another cord 
 and facing. In putting in the sleeve, do not back-stitch it, but 
 secure it only with close running in small stitches, so that it 
 can be easily taken out for the purpose of putting in a white 
 sleeve finished at the top in the same manner. Another way 
 is, to have at the shoulder a sort of epaulet or shoulder-cuff 
 of the silk, sewed in permanently to the aim-hole, and orna- 
 mented with pleats, bands, folds, or whatever yoa choose. 
 Under this shoulder-cuff you can put in either the long silk 
 sleeve, made somewhat narrower than usual at the top, or a 
 white sleeve also narrowed at the top. When thin white 
 sleeves are worn, they should have a short under sleeve, either 
 of fine cambric muslin or of white silk. White sleeves witli 
 dark dresses are almost universally becoming, and in summer 
 are very cool, and in no danger of staining with the heat, as is 
 the case with silk sleeves. They should always, however, 
 be made of a thin material. 
 
420 THEHOUSEBOOK. 
 
 There should be gathers only, and no pleating about the 
 sleeves of any muslin, chintz, or gingham dress; as, when 
 washed and ironed, pleats always get out of shape at the folded 
 edge, and look' badly. If any part of a dress is too tight before 
 it is washed, it wdll be still tighter afterwards, as being in 
 wacfer never fails to shrink it. It is well to shrink the cotton 
 cord by scalding it before it is used. 
 
 All coloured dresses, unless the ground is white, should be 
 sewed with silk, and not with cotton. 
 
 Belts and their linings must be made cross-way of the stuff. 
 If intended to wash, it is best not to cord them at the edges, 
 but to fell down the outside over the lining. Between the 
 outside and the lining there should be a very stout stiffening 
 i>f thick white buckram. Cut all three straight by a thread, 
 and then baste them together till after the belt is finished. 
 Line the flap or end that hooks over, with a piece of the same 
 material as the outside. If you cannot find a belt-ribbon 
 exactly the colour of your dresSj^get one that is rather of a 
 darker than a lisfhter shade. 
 
 THE SKIRT OF A DRESS.— The skirt of a dress will 
 not look well unless it is very full and wide ; it should not be 
 long enough to touch the ground, nor so short as to show the 
 shoe-binding. For a woman of moderate size, a yard and a 
 quarter in length will allow something to turn up for a hem ; 
 a tall woman may require a yard and a quarter and a half-quarter 
 for a skirt with a hem. A dress made of narrow silk, that 
 measures but a half yard in width, will require eight breadths 
 in the skirt ; but if the material is less than half a yard wide, 
 there should be nine breadths. A mousseline de laine, a silk, 
 or a satin, of full three-quarters wide, will take six breadths ; 
 if but half a yard and half a quarter in width, there must be 
 
HINTS ON DRESS-MAKING. 421 
 
 seven. For a three-quarter chaly, six ; for a merino skirt there 
 should be three breadths ; for a double-width bombazine, four. 
 A common calico or Scotch gingham should have six breadths; 
 a yard-wide painted muslin, five ; and a French chintz and a 
 French gingham, five. Of what is called six-quarter white 
 muslin, there must be at least four breadths. A large woman 
 should wear a very full skirt ; at least five yards wide, if with- 
 out flounces. 
 
 A silk, a chaly, or a bombazine will wear much better, and 
 keep clean longer, if the skirt is lined all through ; and when 
 turned it will look nearly as well as new. The lining should 
 be very thin, and may be of coarse book muslin or of papei 
 muslin. After the breadths of the outside are all run up, mea- 
 sure those of the lining so as to fit exactly, and run them up 
 also. Put the lining inside, whip the two raw edges together 
 at the top, and baste the lining and outside together along the 
 bottom. For the slit behind, at the top of the skirt, hem down 
 the outside upon the lining, securingiit well at the termination, 
 and taking care to turn in entirely the white selvage edge. Be 
 also very particular, in running up the breadths or joining the 
 sleeves, to take sufficient hold, so as to prevent even a thread 
 of the selvage edge from appearing on the outside of the dress, 
 as is frequently the case when seams are put together carelessly. 
 It is well to notch with your scissors the selvage all along ; 
 otherwise the tightness of its extreme edge will draw up the 
 breadths, and cause them to pucker at the seams. In sewing 
 together the pieces for a flounce or a frill to a silk dress, cut 
 off the selvage entirely, and whip over the seams ; for if the 
 white edge is left on, it will show at every join. 
 
 If the skirt is pleated at the top, turn down an inch or two 
 all along, and fix all the pleats exactly even ; securing them 
 for the present with pins, and afterwards basting thera. Leavt> 
 
 36 
 
422 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 a plain space directly in the front of the fore-breadth. Take 
 care not to have a seam on the top of any of the pleats, but fold 
 all the seams underneath. The middle of the fore-breadth 
 must come exactly to the middle of the fore-body ; and the 
 ' central gathers of the back-breadth must go precisely to the 
 centre of the back-body. As these gathers are to be caught 
 up, and not whipped with a drawing thread, they cannot be 
 made till after the body is sewed fast to the skirt; but enough 
 must be left to make them very full. 
 
 Having basted the body to the skirt, stitch or s^w them 
 along closely with a strong silk thread. In doing so, stretch 
 the body very tightly, and hold the skirt rather eaoy. Then 
 put in the gathers at the back of the skirt, catching them to the 
 body as you go along, and securing each in its place with a 
 second stitch taken over the first. When they are all in, take 
 a large needle and a strong thread with a large knot on its end, 
 and run it through the whole of the gathers as they stand in a 
 row on the inside, and draw the thread tightly. This will 
 keep them compact, and make them set out well. If the skirt 
 is not lined all through, put a stifFener into the upper part of 
 the two back-breadths, and sew it in with the gathers when 
 you are making them, whipping it first to 4;he raw edge of the 
 outside. This stifFener may be of a double piece of glazed 
 white muslin, about a quarter and half-quarter in length when 
 doubled,' and in width the same as that of the two back-breadths, 
 unless they are extremely wide. Do not double it exactly in 
 half, but leave one of the lower edges a little longer than the 
 other. Scollop it all round with your scissors. A mousseline 
 de laine, a painted muslin, or any light-coloured or white dress, 
 should not have a stifFener sewed in with the gathers, as its 
 form will show through. To wear with these dresses, white 
 stiffeners maybe sewed in with the gathers of white petticoats. 
 
HINTS ON DRESS -MAKING. 423 
 
 Before the sleeves are set in permanently, and the body 
 sewed fast to the skirt, it is well, after all is basted, to try on 
 the dress. The exact length proper for the skirt may then be 
 ascertained, and the hem turned up with pins. A silk skirt 
 will hang much better for having an even strip of wadding laid 
 in the hem at the bottom, provided there is a lining inside ; 
 otherwise, when the lower edge of the hem begins to wear off, 
 the wadding will poke through. The three back-breadths of 
 a velvet skirt should be lined and wadded all through, which 
 will prevent the velvet from creasing and wearing in streaks. 
 When the edge of a silk hem is worn off, bind it with stout 
 ribbon of the same colour : or with a new piece of the silk, cut 
 bias. If the skirt is found to be too long, rip the hem and turn 
 it up broader ; or a tuck laid all along the lining near the bot- 
 tom of the skirt, will shorten it. The hem should be merely 
 run, that the thread may easily be drawn out, if necessary. 
 
 Some persons who do not wish to have their skirts lined all 
 through, line only the two back-breadths, that they may set out 
 ivell. Of course, no skirt should be lined if it is of a inaterial 
 that is to be washed. » 
 
 If, instead of pleating the skirt, you gather it at the waist, 
 /ou may whip the gathers and draw them with a thread, except 
 .ust behind ; and there you must make catch-gathers, as in a 
 j^leated skirt. It is sometimes customary to gage a gathered 
 skirt ; that is, to make a second row of gathers about an inch 
 .6elow the first, securing them in their place by running them 
 on to a tape basted beneath on the inside. If the sleeves are 
 gathered below the shoulder or above the wrist, sew down the 
 gathers also upon tape basted beneath. This will strengthen 
 them, and keep that part of the sleeve in shape. 
 
 To wear with a clear muslin, or any other transparent mate- 
 rial, it is necessary to have an under-dress made at the same 
 
424 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 time, and to fit exactly beneath the upper dress. The sleeves 
 should be short, and the body perfectly plain. Fine white linen 
 or lawn under-dresses, have now superseded those of white 
 silk, and being much whiter are far more becoming. We 
 have seen under-dresses of a skirt only, sewed at the waist to 
 the inside of the thin upper-diess, before it was put on. This 
 is sufficient with the lining of the body and the short sleeve 
 lining. To very young girls, no dress is more becoming than 
 a clear muslin. In buying one, see that ithas not a blueish cast. 
 Ladies who have sense and courage to resist the pernicious 
 but almost universal custom of wearing long corsets with 
 busks and whalebones, may make their figures look extremely 
 well, by a very simple method which cannot possibly interfere 
 either with their comfort or their health. It is to buy or be- 
 speak corsets made in the usual manner, yet not so tight but 
 that the backs can be brought, to meet with perfect ease. After 
 the corsets come home, draw out the busk and all the bones, 
 except the two that go up the back next to the eyelet-holes ; 
 and which, when they lie flat in the hollow between the shoul- 
 ders, are not felt ]py the wearer. After the bones are withdrawn, 
 cut off the lower part of the corsets all round, allowing them 
 just long enough to reach about a few inches below the waist 
 of your longest-bodied dress. Then bind the bottom with 
 twilled tape. Worn in this manner, short, and w;ithout a busk 
 or any bones except two up the back, the corsets will feel very 
 comfortably, and can in no way affect the health ; while the 
 figure will look so well that few persons will perceive that 
 the corsets are not exactly in the usual mode. It is the busk 
 in front, and the bones compressing the waist all round, (united 
 with improperly tight lacing,) that do the injury; and cause in 
 so many instances, diseases which embitter the lives of onr 
 young females, even if they do not eventually destroy them. 
 
HINTS ON DRESS-MAKING. 425 
 
 If the neck of your dress is cut down into a point in front. 
 Or is made surplice, have what is termed a modesty-piece, to 
 pin on the front of your corsets. These may be made of cam- 
 bric or fine lawn, and trimmed at the top with insertion and 
 lace. Their form is triangular, and the top or broad part should 
 be cut somewhat of a semicircle, highest in the middle, and 
 roundinsf off towards the corners. 
 
 A GOWN-DRESS. — A gown-dress, to fasten in front, with- 
 out the assistance of" another person, is, on that account, ex- 
 tremely convenient, and can be made in such a manner that it 
 may easily be mistaken for a frock. Instead of being open 
 behind, let the back of the body be made entirely in one piece, 
 with a corded bias fold put on up the middle of the back, to 
 look as if it covered a row of fastenings. The fore-body must 
 be made to open in the middle, each side finished with a cord- 
 ing and a whalebone ; a row of hooks being sewed on the inside 
 of the right, and a row of eyes on the right-side of the left. 
 These divided fore-bodies set better if the neck is made to 
 meet in a point directly in front just above the corset-busk, and 
 retiring back towards the shoulders. In this case, the two 
 sides of the neck must be cut straight by a thread, which will 
 give the proper slope when the dress is on. If these dresses 
 are not worn with a pelerine or a deep collar outside, they 
 should have a close-fitting under handkerchief beneath. 
 
 In the skirt of a gown dress, two breadths must meet in 
 front; joining them perpendicularly with a fold or tuck, and 
 leaving at the top a slit about a quarter of a yard in length. 
 One side of this slit will be formed by this tnck, the other 
 will be finished by a narrow hem, to which should be sewed 
 a straight slip of the material to go under the tuck-side ; other- 
 wise the slit will gape, and show the petticoat beneath. It 
 
426 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 is well to continue this straight slip or under-piece all the way 
 up to the neck of the dress, sewing it along the edge of the 
 body, on the side where the eyes are placed. The pocket- 
 holes should also have slips sewed along beneath one side of 
 their hem, otherwise they may gape open. The gathers or 
 pleats on the two front breadths of the skirt should extend 
 out to the utmost extreme edge of each of the two halves or 
 fronts of the forebody. 
 
 Inside the lower part of the back of a gown dress, where it 
 is joined to the skirt, tack, with strong silk, a piece of twilled 
 tape long enough to be brought round and tied beneath the 
 front. Sew the tape fast in three places ; the centre and the 
 side-seams. Tying this string when you put on the dress 
 will draw it in at the waist, and make it sit closer. 
 
 If the fore-body of a dress, whether gown or frock, has been 
 found, when finished, to be too tight across the chest, (a 
 very bad fault,) and there is no outlet, the best remedy is to 
 Set a piece up the front, from the waist to the neck. For a 
 gown-body, there must be two pieces, one on each side, both 
 cut bias, finished with cording, and made to look as smooth 
 and well as possible. A frock body must be split up, and a 
 bias piece inserted, handsomely finished at the seams where 
 it is sewed in. If the tightness or narrowness across the 
 bosom is excessive, the piece you set in may be cut some- 
 what in the form of a gore, widening towards the top. This 
 gore may be ornamented with either silk cord laced across ; 
 handsome buttons or frogs ; piping, &c. ; or it may be laid in 
 small, flat, horizontal pleats or gathers, going across. 
 
 PELERINES. — In making a pelerine, fold the material in 
 half, and cut it double. The back must be the straightway of 
 
HINTS ON DRESS-BIAKING. 427 
 
 the stuff, so as to make it come bias at the shoulders ; other- 
 wise, the back of the pelerine will hang off behind, and its 
 shoulders will have an awkward draw. Take care to g-ive it 
 a sufRcient curve in front, down towards the corners. If there 
 - is not curve enough, it will hang forward and look badly. If 
 the stuff is not wide enough to cut the pelerine all in one, take 
 a breadth for each half, and make a straight seam up the back. 
 Line it with silk or with paper muslin, and have the trimming 
 on the edge broad enough to prevent any part of the lining from 
 shewing. If you trim it with folds, cut all the strips of an 
 exact bias, and join them neatly : seeing that the threads of 
 both ends go one way at the joining places. Sew first a covered 
 cord all round the edge of the pelerine, and then sew on the 
 fold, holding it next you. You may either put on both edges 
 of the fold at once, or do first one and then the other. The 
 fold should be held easy all along, and particularly so over the 
 shoulders or it will hoop. Be very careful to put it on perfectly 
 smooth and even, as a fold twisted and warped looks very badly. 
 This will certainly be the case, if it is not an exact bias all 
 along, or if it is stretched the least in sewing on. 
 
 The trimming of a pelerine should always be made to 
 diminish gradually in width as it approaches the front corners ; 
 and near the extremity of the corners, it should be put on quite 
 plain for a small distance. Pelerines that are to be washed, 
 should have no lining, and no other trimming than a ruflie, 
 which, if of muslin or chintz, may be pleated ; or else fluted 
 over an Italian iron. However, for a chintz or calico, a double 
 fold may be quilled on the edge, to be taken off and washed 
 and ironed plain, and afterwards quilled on again. This, of 
 course, must be done every time the pelerine is washed. 
 
 In cutting flounces and ruflles, the general rule is to allow 
 tjjree times as much in length as the space on which they 
 
428 THE HOUSE BOOK 
 
 are to be sewed. This will make them sufficiently full fav 
 any purpose. 
 
 To make satin piping for a blond pelerine, or for any other 
 purpose, cut some satin exactly bias into slips, two, three, or 
 four inches wide, according to the size you wish to have the 
 piping. It must be cut exactly even, and the pieces joined 
 at the ends precisely as the threads run. Then fold or roll it 
 over, turning in the last edge, which must be run closely along 
 with a needle and thread, seeing that not a single stitch goes 
 through, so as to show on the surface of the piping. Then lay 
 it on the right side of the pelerine, and run it on the wrong side, 
 just catching it through the blond as you go along, and again 
 taking care that no stitch goes quite through the whole thick- 
 ness of the piping. 
 
 All bows made of silk, should be finished with a bias bind- 
 ing of the same. 
 
 In making a pelerine with pleats down the front, the pleats 
 must lie the straightway of the stuff, and not bias. If a muslin 
 pelerine is made with bias pleats, they will wash and iron to 
 great disadvantage, and look very badly ; unless the pelerine 
 is taken apart, and all the pleats are let out before washing, 
 putting them in anew after ironing. 
 
 To cut trimmings of a good bias, use strips of pasteboard. 
 You should have several of these strips, each of a different 
 length or width. In length they should suit the width of the 
 silk or other material. To have them perfectly even, mark 
 them first with a pencil and a ruler. Then cut them apart. 
 Lay the silk eater-corner ; tack the pasteboard slip upon it, 
 and then cut out the bias strips of silk exactly the width of 
 the paste-board, which will be found a good guide. All trim- 
 mings of an uneven or imperfect bias are sure, when served 
 on, to warp, and pucker, and look badly. 4 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 WASHING MIXTURE.— Mix together, in a pitcher, a 
 pint of camphine, and a pint of spirits of turpentine, adding 
 two ounces of spirits of hartshorn. When well stirred, put 
 it into two very clean black bottles. Cork them tightly, and 
 shake them hard. Then put them away for use. The cost 
 of this quantity will be about thirty-seven cents. 
 
 On washing-day, fill your wash-kettle or boiler with cold, 
 soft water, and stir in a portion of the mixture, allowing a 
 large table-spoonful to each gallon of water, and put it on to 
 boil. When it has boiled, pour it into a large tub, and stir 
 in a pint of soft soap, or half a pound of hard soap, cut up, 
 making a strong lather. Into this, put as many of the 
 cleanest wJdte doilies as it will conveniently hold, (rubbing 
 the dirtiest places a little,) and let them soak twenty-five 
 minutes or near a half an hour. Afterwards, wring them 
 out ; and put them on to boil, in fresh water. Then put 
 into the first tub, the next dirtiest clothes, soaping and 
 rubbing only the places that are most soiled, and afterwards 
 put tliem on to boil. The same water that has boiled the 
 others will do for them. Coloured clothes may be washed in 
 the water that the white clothes have been boiled in, but 
 must on no account be soaked themselves, or boiled. They 
 
 must -be well rinsed in two cold waters, with a table-spoon- 
 
 429 
 
430 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 ful of vinegar in each water to set the colours ; and -wrung 
 Dut immediately, and dried fast. 
 
 The white clothes must also be well rinsed through two 
 waters ; a very little blue from the indigo-bag may be 
 squeezed into the last. 
 
 This mixture will not do for washing flannels, or other 
 woollens ; they must be done in the ilsual way. But for 
 all articles of linen or cotton, it saves much labour ; re- 
 quiring so little rubbing, and making the clothes v«ry white 
 without injuring them. It leaves no smell of turpentine or 
 camphine. 
 
 This composition, mixed with a lather of warm water and 
 white soap, is excellent for cleaning silver. Put it on with 
 a soft rag, and let it remain on the silver ten minutes or 
 more. Then wipe it off, and polish with buckskin. 
 
 WASHING WITH SODA SOAP.— Mix together two 
 pounds of soda, and four pounds of the best brown soap 
 cut up small, and add two jills of spirits of turpentine. 
 Put them into a kettle with ten quarts (two gallons 
 and a half) of water, and boil them together for two hours. 
 When cool, it becomes white and hard. Put it away in a 
 covered box. In using it for washing clothes, allow one 
 pint of the soap to two buckets of hot water. Make a 
 lather of it in a large tub, and put in the white clothes. 
 They will require but little rubbing, and no soaking. Then 
 rinse them well and wring them out, and boil them a short 
 time in clear, pure water. Afterwards, rinse them through 
 two cold waters, with a very little indigo blue in the last. 
 
 Soda soap will not do for coloured things — and care must 
 be taken not to use too much of it, as it will then injure the 
 clothes. 
 
APPENDIX. 431 
 
 TO WASH SILKS, RIBBONS, &c.— Mix together in a 
 pitcher or bowl, one quart of white brandy, three quarters 
 of a pound of strained honey, one quarter of a pound of very 
 good soft soap, and a small half-pint of gin. Set the mix- 
 ture near the fire, or in the sun ; and stir it frequently, tiU 
 it is thoroughly mixed ; but do not let it get hot. It must 
 be warm only. 
 
 To use it. Rub the article to be cleaned, with a brush dipped 
 in the above mixture, till all the dirt and stains are removed. 
 Then squeeze the silk or ribbon, first, through a pan of clear 
 cold river-water or rain-water. Afterwards, squeeze it 
 through spring, or pump-water. Dry it in a clean towel, by 
 gently clapping it. It must on no account be wrung. When 
 it is what is called ironing-dry, have heated irons ready to 
 smooth it immediately. Spread a linen cloth over the iron- 
 ing blanket. Try the iron first, upon som^ething else: as, 
 if too hot, it will scorch and discolour the silk, and will give 
 a dull bluish tint to green, and a bad purplish tint to pink ; 
 also turning black into a dingy brown. If the iron is of the 
 proper heat, no colour will be injured by it. 
 
 Bottle this mixture, corking it very closely, and tying a 
 leather over the cork. It will then keep for a long time. As 
 it becomes thick by standing, it is well always to add a little 
 more brandy to what you pour out for immediate use. 
 
 DOMESTIC SOAP.— To every gaUon of lye (which must 
 be strong enough to bear up an egg on its surface) put three 
 quarters of a pound of lard or tallow. Before using any 
 kitchen fat for soap, the fat must be well boiled in a large 
 quantity of water, to take out the salt, which, if left in, wiU 
 prevent its incorporating with the lye. 
 
 Having put the above proportion of fat into the lye, 
 
432 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 boll it briskly, and stir it frequently. When the mixture is 
 well amalgamated, and no grease remains on. the surface, stir 
 in one pint of salt to every two gallons of the soft soap. Let 
 it boil ten minutes longer. Then put it into tubs and set it 
 to cool. Next day, cut it out of the tubs, transfer it to a 
 clean kettle, set it again over the fire, and again boil it long 
 enough to render it liquid. This second boiling will take 
 out all the lye, and the soap will not shrink in hardening. 
 Afterwards cool it in tubs, as before ; and when quite hard 
 cut it into squares or bars. 
 
 If you use cracklings, put in one pound of them to each 
 gallon of lye. 
 
 DOMESTIC STARCH.— Put a tub two-thirds fuU of wheat 
 bran, and then fill it up with water. Let it stand till it fer- 
 ments or works. In warm weather it will generally ferment 
 in twenty-four hours. Afterwards, run it through a coarse 
 sieve, (squeezing and pressing it well,) and then strain the 
 liquid through a clean, coarse cloth. Put this liquid into 
 an earthen or white-ware vessel, about half full ; and fill it 
 up with water. "When it has settled, pour off the water, 
 gently, from the sediment, and carefully put on fresh water. 
 Repeat this process twice a-day, tiU you see by the white- 
 ness and purity of the sediment that it will be clean, good 
 starch. Spread it out on broad dishes, and set it in the sun 
 to dry. When quite dry, put it in ajar, and keep it closely 
 covered. 
 
 PRESERVING THE COLOURS OF DRESSES.— The 
 colours of merinos, mousseline de laines, ginghams, chintzes, 
 '>rinted lawns, &c., may be preserved by using water that is 
 only milk-warm ; making a lather with white soap, before 
 
APPENDIX. 433 
 
 you put in the dress, instead of rubbing it on the material ; 
 and stirring into a first and second tub of water, a large 
 table-spoonful of ox-gall. The gall can be obtained from the 
 butcher, and a bottle of it should always be kept in every 
 house. No coloured articles should be allowed to remain 
 long in the water. They must be washed fast, and then 
 rinsed through two cold waters. Into each rinsing water, 
 stir a tea-spoonful of vinegar, which will help to brighten 
 the colours ; and after rinsing, hang them out immedi- 
 ately. When ironing-dry, (or still a little damp,) bring them 
 in; have irons ready heated, and iron them at once, as it 
 injures the colours to allow them to remain damp too long, 
 or to sprinkle and roll them up in a covering for ironing 
 next day. If they cannot be conveniently ironed immedi- 
 ately, let them hang till they are qidte dry ; and then damp 
 and fold them on the following day, a quarter of an hour 
 before ironing. The best way is not to do coloured dresses 
 on the day of the general wash, but to give them a morning 
 by themselves. They should only be undertaken in clear 
 bright weather. If allowed to freeze, the colours will be 
 irreparably injured. We need scarcely say that no coloured 
 articles should ever be boiled or scalded. 
 
 If you get from a shop a slip for testing the durability 
 of colours, give it a fair trial by washing it as above ; after- 
 wards, pinning it to the edge of a towel, and hanging it to dry. 
 Some colours, (especially pinks and light-greens,) though they 
 may stand perfectly well in washing, will change as soon as a 
 warm iron is applied to them ; the pink turning purplish, 
 and the green bluish. No coloured article should be smoothed 
 with a hot iron. 
 
 37 
 
434 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 TO USE A GAUFFERING IRON.— These instruments 
 are to be bought at the hardware stores. They resemble a 
 long pair of curling-tongs, but have three points ; and one 
 handle is shorter than the other. They generally cost from 
 seventy-five cents to a dollar. Frencli gaufiering is done 
 with a complicated brass machine, which sells at five or six 
 dollars, and may be used for very broad frills. The common 
 gaufi'ering-iron is only for narrow frills, edgings, &c. These 
 frills must, of course, be starched and damped before gauffer- 
 ing. In heating the iron, you must hold the points just over 
 the fire, and on no account stick them into it, as that will 
 smoke and roughen them, and spoil the frill, injuring the in- 
 strument also. When of the right heat, take a portion of the 
 ruffle between the three points of the iron, and squeeze it 
 firmly. Proceed thus, till you have done about a quarter 
 of a yard of gauffering ; then heat the iron again. The frill 
 will retain the fluting as long as it is clean enough to wear. 
 
 French gauffering is generally imported ready done ; and 
 when broad gauffered frills are wanted, it is best to buy 
 thorn so. The brass machine is generally considered too 
 expensive for a private family, or for a small laundry-esta- 
 Dlishment. But the above gauffering-iron is comparatively 
 cheap and easy to manage — and greatly improves narrow 
 trimmings of muslin or lace. 
 
 TO REMOVE THE DOWN OR FUZZ OF WADDING.— 
 
 In turning a merino cloak or pelisse that has been wadded 
 without an interlining, particles of the wadding will adhere 
 to the inside of the merino, like a thin, transparent covering 
 of down. It is impossible to got this entirely off by brushing 
 in the visual way ; and even washing will not remove it. The 
 best method, (and one that is unfailing,) is as follows. After 
 
APPENDIX. 435 
 
 the breadths of the merino are all ripped apart, spread them 
 out one at a time, (wrong side uppermost,) on a large iron- 
 ing table, or on a clean floor. Have ready a pan of clean 
 sand made very damp with water. Spread a layer of this 
 sand evenly aU over the merino. Let it rest about ten 
 minutes ; then brush it off. Afterwards, brush the merino 
 hard with a broom-corn whisk. All traces of wadding will 
 disappear. Let the merino be damped, and ironed smoothly, 
 before it is again made up. 
 
 To avoid any of this trouble with the wadding, it is best, 
 in making up a merino cloak or coat, to baste a very thin 
 interlining of muslin upon the wadding, to go between it and 
 the outside. This interlining should be white or whitish. 
 If coloured, the dye of the muslin may come through and 
 stain the outside, if the garment chances to get wet. A 
 good interlining (and cheaper than any other) is thin un- 
 bleached domestic muslin, which is to be had at a few cents 
 a yard. It has been manufactured as low as three cents. 
 It is well to get this muslin by the piece ; keeping some al- 
 ways in the house. The cost is very trifling, and it will be 
 found useful for many things. It is very strong, even when 
 thin. 
 
 A PAPER FLOOE-COYERING FOR BED-ROOMS.— The 
 
 floor having been well swept, and scrubbed clean, let its 
 measure be exactly taken. Buy a sufficiency of good, strong 
 wall-paper, as handsome as you please, but with no white in 
 it. All the furniture being removed from the room, have 
 some strong paste made of rye-meal boiled with water. 
 Spread it on with a brush, and paste the paper smoothly 
 over the floor; seeing that in all the breadths the pattern 
 matches exactly. You may add to it, all round the room, 
 
436 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 next the wall, and around the hearth, a handsome, rich paper- 
 bordering. Next day, after the pasting is thoroughly dried, 
 go all over the paper with a coat of varnish. The next day, 
 with another coat ; and next day with a third. Meanwhile, 
 keep the doors and windows closed, so that no dust may 
 stick to the varnish while drying. During the whole pro- 
 cess of pasting and varnishing, the room should be locked 
 up. At the end of a week, you may bring back the furni- 
 ture. 
 
 This mode of covering bed-room or .library floors is now 
 very customary in the south. It is much cooler than carpet 
 ing ; cheaper than oil-cloth ; easily swept ; and if the papei 
 is thick and good, will last three or four years. To renew it, 
 you may either paste it over with a fresh paper, or (what is 
 better) take the old paper entirely off, by wetting it 
 thoroughly with a swab or mop, dipped in hot water, and 
 then loosening and peeling it ; afterwards, scrubbing the 
 floor. 
 
 We highly recommend this floor-covering. Try it. 
 
 BALL-ROOM FLOORS.— In preparing a floor for dancing, 
 avoid using any sort of coloured chalk. It rubs off on the 
 white satin shoes of the ladies, and spoils them immediately 
 ■ — ruining also the hems of their dresses. The chalk for ball- 
 room floors should always be white. 
 
 For a private ball, it is a very good way, after the carpel 
 is removed, and the floor scrubbed and dry, to tack down all 
 over it, a temporary covering of wall-paper — not varnished. 
 
 Or a room for dancing may be covered with new ticking 
 nailed down. 
 
APPENDIX. 437 
 
 A GOOD KITCHEN OIL CLOTIL— In the spring, or 
 very early in the summer, take an old thread-bare Brussels 
 carpet that has been well shaken and beaten, so that no 
 dust remains about it. Send it to a coach-painter, and en- 
 gage him to paint it all over (on the wrong side) of one 
 colour, blue, red, brown, or gray. When it is painted, he 
 will spread it out and dry it properly ; so that by autumn 
 it will be well-seasoned, and fit for use. It is an excellent 
 covering for a kitchen floor ; far better than a rag-carpet, as 
 it will imbibe no grease, and collect no dust, is easily swept, 
 and requires no other cleaning than washing over with a 
 wet cloth. There is no better way of turning to good ^iccount 
 an old Brussels carpet-. If you have one, try it. 
 
 Country people sometimes convert an old carpet into an 
 oil-cloth, by selecting the best parts, and sewing them to- 
 gether, so as to form a large square or oblong. This is then 
 stretched tightly, and nailed to the side of a frame barn or 
 stable, and then painted over with two or three coats of 
 paint. It is kept thus, drying and seasoning, for several 
 months — the longer the better. It then makes a good cover- 
 ing for the kitchen floor. 
 
 A BARREL CHAIR. — Take a clean, empty flour-barrel ; 
 and if there is no man in the house who can do it, employ a 
 carpenter to prepare it for making a substitute chair-frame. 
 The top being removed, he must cut down one half of the 
 barrel to about the height of fourteen inches (or a quarter 
 and half quarter of a yard) from the ground ; so as to form 
 the front of the chair ; leaving the remainder standing its 
 full height to represent the back, but sloping the sides gra- 
 dually down to the front, like the arms of some sofas. The 
 
 staves must be well secured, so that they may not ^U apart. 
 
 37* 
 
438 THE'HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 Next, a sufficiency of strong girthing (such as is used by 
 the saddlers) must be nailed on so as to interlace like lattice- 
 work, and form a bottom for the chair. Four castors should 
 be put on to make it move easily. The wood-work may 
 then be painted of any colour you please. "When it is per- 
 fectly dry, proceed to finish the chair, making a stuffed back 
 with sides ; and a cushion for the seat. To this purpose, 
 you may devote an old comfortable or thick bed-quilt. What- 
 ever may be used for the cushions, there should be no stuffing 
 with moss, as that will make it hard and dusty ; but employ 
 either cotton, or wool, or hair, or bed-feathers. When the 
 cushions, &c., are made, and finished with a strong binding 
 all round, nail them, smoothly and firmly, on to the frame 
 of the chair. Then make a cover for the whole, of furniture- 
 chintz, with a deep valence ail round. These chairs cost 
 but little, and are vei'y comfortable and convenient for bed- 
 rooms, and may be constructed entirely by the family. They 
 are always made as loio cJiairs. 
 
 TO REMOVE BLACK STAINS FROM THE SKIN.— 
 
 .Ladies that wear mourning in warm weather are much in- 
 commoded by the blackness it leaves on the arms and neck ; 
 and which cannot easily be removed, even by soap and warm 
 water. To have a remedy always at hand, keep in the 
 drawer of your wash-stand a box or gallicup, containing a 
 mixture in equal portions of cream of tartar and oxalic acid. 
 Got at a druggist's half an ounce of each of these articles, 
 and have them mixed and pounded together in a mortar. 
 Put some of this mixture into a gallicup that has a cover, 
 and if, afterwards, it becomes hard, you may keep it slightly 
 moistened with water. See that it is always closely covered. 
 To use it, wet the black stains on your skin with the corner 
 
APPENDIX. 439 
 
 of a towel, dipped in water, (warm water is best, but is not 
 always at hand. Then, with your finger, rub on a little of the 
 mixture. Then, immediately wash it off with water, and after- 
 wards with soap and water ; and the black stains will be 
 visible no lono-er. This mixture will also remove ink, and 
 all other stains from the fingers, and from wliite clothes. It 
 is more speedy in its effects if applied with warm water. No 
 family should be without it; but care must be taken to 
 keep it out of the way of young children, as if swallowed, it 
 is poisonous. 
 
 Before you send a straw bonnet to be cleaned, wet the 
 stains on its surface with warm water ; and then with your 
 finger rub on some of this mixture. Repeat this process, 
 if the stains do not disappear at the first application ; and it 
 will effectually obliterate them. Grease, you may remove 
 from a bonnet by rubbing on some camphine. It is best, 
 also, to do this before the bonnet is sent to the cleaner. 
 
 TO KEEP YOUE HANDS NICE.— Wash them with 
 sand-soap, and immediately afterwards, with fresh water. 
 Then, while they are wet, put into the palm of each hand a 
 very small portion of rose-cream or almond-cream, (such 
 as gentlemen use for shaving, and is to be had of all the per- 
 fumers) and rub the cream all over them, 'hard and tho- 
 roughly. It forms a strong lather, which will render your 
 hands very soft and smooth ; the pores having first been well 
 opened by the friction of the sand-soap. In some very fair 
 and delicate skins, the sand-soap may, at first, leave an un- 
 comfortable irritation, which, however, is generally removed 
 by the immediate application of the rose-cream. Otherwise, 
 use the rose-cream without the soap. 
 
 Always, after washing your hands, take ^f corner of the 
 
440 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 wet towel, and rub back (very hard) the skin that surrounds 
 your finger-nails, and should never be allowed to encroach 
 upon them. Do this, unfailingly, whenever you wash, and 
 the surface of your nails will always look well. In cutting 
 them, be careful to round ojQF the corners. 
 
 Glycerine, a liquid preparation, to br obtained at the 
 druggists, is excellent for the hands, keeping them always 
 soft and smooth. After washing your hands in the usual 
 manner, pour on their palms four or five drops of glycerine, 
 and rub it well into them. So small a portion is required 
 for daily use, that a half-dollar bottle of it will last a long 
 time. 
 
 TO EXTRACT GREASE WITH CAMPHINE OIL.— 
 
 Grease of the very worst sort, (for instance, whale oil,) may 
 be extracted immediately by means of campliine oil, which 
 can always be procured from the grocers' or lamp-stores. 
 As this oil is the better for being fresh, get but a small 
 quantity at a time. It can be used successfully, even for 
 the most delicate articles, such as ribbons and other silks. 
 Pour some camphine into a clean cup, and dip lightly into 
 it a bit of clean, soft, white rag. With this, rub the grease- 
 spot. Then take a fresh rag dipped in the camphine, and 
 continue rubbing till all the grease is extracted ; which will 
 be very soon. You will find the colour of the article unin- 
 jured. To remove the turpentine odour of the. camphine, 
 rub the place with Cologne water, or strong alcohol, and 
 expose it to the open air. By this process, I have removed 
 a large spot of whale oil from white satin. 
 
 TO REMOVE A NAIL FROM BENEATH A CARPET. 
 —In putting down a carpet, it sometimes happens that a 
 
APPENDIX. 441 
 
 nail chancing to lie on the floor, is carelessly overlooked, 
 and the carpet is tacked down over it. If left there, the 
 head of the nail will undoubtedly wear a hole through. To 
 reraove the nail without taking up the carpet, or ripping the 
 nearest seam to get at it, use a pair of round pointed scissors ; 
 hold them firmly, and applying them to the head of the nail, 
 where you feel it lying beneath the carpet, slowly and care- 
 fully push and work it along till you have shoved it to the 
 hearth, or to any part of the room where the edge of the 
 carpet comes. As soon as the nail is visible, you can easily 
 disengage it with your fingers. 
 
 I have seen this process most successfully tried, with a 
 brass-headed nail, on which a small mirror had been sus- 
 pended, and which nail had fallen on the floor when the 
 glass was taken . down previous to papering the room. It 
 was strangely disregarded by the woman that scrubbed the 
 floor and the upholsterer's man that put down the new 
 carpet ; beneath wliich it remained unperceived till I chanced 
 to tread upon it. It was near the centre of the floor. A 
 coloured man, a waiter belonging to the house, removed the 
 nail in the above manner, without the slightest injury to the 
 carpet. 
 
 There are, of course, many other substances which may 
 thus be extricated from similar positions. 
 
 TO CLEAN THE RUST FEOM IRON OR STEEL.— 
 
 Scrape ofi" as much of the rust as you can. Then grease the 
 iron all over with lamp oil, (any other oil will do,) rubbing 
 it in well. Put the iron in a place where it will be out of the 
 way, and let it rest for two or three days, or more. Then 
 wipe off the oil, as thoroughly as possible, and rub the iron 
 with sand-paper till it is perfectly cleaned from the grease^ 
 
442 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 Sand-paper is to be had, at the hardware-stores, or at the 
 stationers', its price is usually two or three cents a sheet. 
 
 For want of oil or sand-paper, rusty iron may be cleaned 
 tolerably well by greasing it with a bit of pork-fat, and 
 afterwards rubbing it with common sand. 
 
 TO KEEP OFF ANTS.— The little red ants, with which 
 so many houses are infested, may be expelled by sprinkling 
 Boda (either carbonate or common soda) in the places whore 
 they are troublesome — for instance, on closet-shelves or 
 around the jars containing sweet things. A broad circle 
 of common chalk drawn around these vessels will like- 
 wise repel the approach of ants. It will be well also to 
 chalk about the floors, and inside the doors of the store- 
 closets and side-boards. All alkalies are destructive to 
 these insects. 
 
 TO DESTROY RATS AND MICE.— Mix some ground 
 plaster of Paris with brown sugar and Indian meal. Set it 
 about on old plates, and leave, beside each plate, a saucer or 
 pan of water. When the rats have eaten the mixture they will 
 drink the water and die. To attract them towards it, you 
 may sprinkle on the edges of the plates a little of the oil 
 of rhodium. 
 
 In building a house, if the space down behind the wash- 
 board, between the lath and plaster and the solid wall, is 
 filled in with tin clippings, or old glass broken to bits, it will 
 not be infested with rats and mice ; particularly the kitchen, 
 cellar, and store-closet, provided that all the rooms are thus 
 guarded from their approaches. 
 
 The clippings thrown away as useless at tin-manufactories 
 may thus be turned to account. 
 
APPENDIX. 443 
 
 TO TAKE OUT FRESH INK.— When ink has just been 
 spilled, (for instance on a carpet,) it may generally be re- 
 moved by immediately taking up as much as possible with a 
 spoon ; or, if in a large quantity, with the fire-shovel. Then 
 with a pan of cold water and a clean cloth wash the 
 place well ; renewing the water and cloth, when necessary, 
 till the water is no longer discoloured. If this is done 
 ijuickly and well, the mark left on the carpet will be scarcely 
 visible ; and all that remains of it will gradually disappear 
 after the place is quite dry. 
 
 TO REMOVE GREASE FROM WOOLLEN, &c.— Having 
 scraped off with a knife, whatever grease (tallow, or sper- 
 maceti for instance) stands on the surface, cover the cloth 
 with a smooth piece of clean soft paper, (blotting paper is 
 best,) and then press it with a warm iron. The iron must 
 not be so hot as to injure the colour. Repeat the process 
 (exchanging to a clean part of the paper) till the grease 
 has entirely disappeared. 
 
 TO TAKE OUT WAX.— Hold a very hot iron over, but 
 not on, the spot, till the wax melts. Then scrape it off. Lay 
 a clean blotting paper over the place, and press it with a 
 cooler iron till the wax has disappeared. 
 
 TO MAKE SATIN PIPING.— Cut some long slips 
 of satin three or four inches broad, and of an exact bias all 
 along. Turn both of the raw edges inward, and as evenly as 
 possible. Then fold it into a very tight roll, leaving the 
 lower edge a little below the roll. Having pinned it to your 
 knee or to a brick pincushion, (which is far better, and 
 which every lady should have,) run it along closely, dnd 
 
444 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 with your needle and thxread catching the lower edge, and 
 thus confining it to the roll. In sewing this piping to a 
 cap, or any other article of dress, take your stitches on the 
 wrong side, slightly catching the piping through it. Cap- 
 bows should also he sewed on the wrong side. 
 
 TO MAKE A ROULEAU OF RIBBON.— Rouleaus 
 
 of satin ribbon are used for trimming caps and evening 
 dresses. To render these rouleaus smooth and even, and 
 without any risk of the edges getting loose, and standing 
 Dut irregular and unsightly, they should be made over a 
 fold of white paper. This paper Diust be a little longer than 
 the intended rouleau aiid cut perfectly straight and even, 
 and broad enough to be folded several times. The more the 
 paper is folded, the rounder and handsomer will be the 
 rouleau. If your paper is not long enough, you may 
 lengthen it (before it is folded) by sewing or pasting to its 
 end an additional slip of paper of the same breadth exactly. 
 >Yhen the paper is properly folded, take the ribbon, and with 
 a needle and thread tack one end of it to the paper-slip. 
 Then roll or wind the ribbon round the paper ; taking care 
 not to stretch it too much, as the roll should be short and 
 close, and not lengthy and drawn out. When you have 
 rolled on as much ribbon as you want, secure its other end 
 to the paper-slip, and begin fo baste the rouleau on the cap, 
 or dress. Or whatever article you wish to trim with it. You 
 must do this basting on the wrong side of the material to be 
 trimmed; taking care not to take your stitches too far 
 through so that they are in danger of catching the paper, 
 or appearing on the outside of the rouleau. When the rouleau 
 is all on, remove the tacking at the first end, and carefully 
 draw out the folded slip of paper, which should then be put 
 
APPENDIX. 445 
 
 away, for future use. When the paper is withdrawn, the 
 ribbon will remain fixed in a round, handsome roll. Finally, 
 secure it permanently at each end by a few stitches. 
 
 This is the only true way of making a neat and smooth 
 rouleau, and is practised by good milliners and dress- 
 makers. 
 
 KOSE LEAF WAVE TRIMMING.— Take some ribbon, 
 or a strip of hemmed silk, either exactly the same colour 
 as the dress, or a decided contrast. With a needle threaded 
 with very long silk, run the ribbon up and down from edge 
 to edge in a pointed wave, each wave of the same size. 
 Then draw up the gathering-thread, and the ribbon will 
 take the form of a wreath or strip of rose-leaves, one leaf up 
 and one leaf down. It is a very pretty trimming for skirts, 
 cap-sleeves, pelerines, &c,, is very soon done, and does not 
 lose its shape like many ribbon trimmings. You should have 
 the same quantity of ribbon .as for quilling. Bonnets and 
 caps may be trimmed with it. 
 
 TO SMOOTH A CREASED OR RUMPLED RIBBON.— 
 
 Lay the ribbon evenly on a clean table or board ; and with 
 a very clean sponge damp it all over, missing no part. Next, 
 roll it, smoothly and tightly, on a ribbon-block that is wider 
 than the ribbon, and let it remain till dry. Afterwards, 
 transfer it to a fresh block (which must be perfectly dry) 
 rolling it round that. Wrap it up closely in coarse hrown 
 paper, and keep it thus till you want to use it. * Ironing a 
 ribbon is apt to discolour it, and give it a faded Icok even 
 when new. 
 
 Ribbons and other silks should always fee put away in 
 coarse, brown paper ; the chloride of lime used in manufao- 
 
 38 
 
446 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 turing wJiite paper frequently produces spots and stains. 
 Coarse brown paper being made of old ropes picked to pieces^ 
 the tar still lingering about them, preserves the colours of the 
 silks. 
 
 HEMMING IN POINTS OR SCOLLOPS.— This forms 
 a Yery neat and pretty edge for night-gowns, or to go round 
 white wrappers, or petticoats. First, lay down a strait, even 
 hem, on the riglit side of the muslin. Then draw with a 
 pencil on a card, the outline of such a scollop as you want, 
 either round, or semi-circular, or pointed, and cut it out 
 of the card with your scissors. It must not be quite so deep 
 as the hem you have laid down. Lay this card-scollop upon 
 the hem, and with a pencil trace its outline all along the 
 edge, fitting it handsomely at the corners. Or, you may 
 draw it on the hem with a small camel-hair brush, dipped in 
 indigo-blue, mixed on a plate with a little starch and water. 
 At the bottom of the Vow of scollops leave suJB&cient muslin 
 to turn in when hemming. When the scollops are all drawn, 
 run them in short stitches with a needle and thread, guided 
 by the outline. Nest, with sharp scissors, cut or trim 
 off the superfluous muslin from the space between the scol- 
 lops, taking care not to cut too close to the sewing, lest it 
 ravel out. Afterwards, with the blunt point of a bodkin, 
 turn all the scollops right side out. This turning will put 
 them on the right side of the muslin. Lastly, hem down the 
 raw edge along the bottom of the scollops. This is a very 
 expeditious way of scolloping muslin ; and it looks extremely 
 well ; each scollop being double when finished. 
 
 CORNS' BETWEEN THE TOES.— Of aU corns, these are 
 the most painful, and least accessible to the usual remedies. 
 
APPENDIX. 447 
 
 And, like all others, they never stay cured, but always re- 
 turn after a while, and again require relief. There is no- 
 thing better than to rub them lightly and carefully with a 
 mixture of sweet oil and hartshorn-spirit, well stirred toge- 
 ther every time it is used, and adding every time, a few 
 drops of fresh hartshorn. Keep it in a covered gallicup, and 
 apply it several times during the day, and always before and 
 after walking out. Having bared your foot, place it on a low 
 Btool, on which is laid a folded paper or a thick cloth to pre- 
 vent grease from the oil. With your finger, rub the mixture 
 on the corns between your toes, till they are well saturated. 
 Then wipe off the superfluous oil, (or that which runs down,) 
 and put on your stocking. You will find immediate ease, 
 and by persevering in the remedy for a week or two, the 
 corns will dhninish so as to be no longer inconvenient or 
 painful ; and it may be several years before you are again 
 troubled with them. We hioic this remedy to be excellent. 
 Try it. 
 
 EXCELLENT COLOGNE WATER.— Get at a drug- 
 gist's six cents' worth of oil of rosemary — six cents' worth 
 of oil of lavender — tAvelve cents' worth of oil of bergamot, 
 and twelve cents' worth of oil of lemon. Have them all put 
 into a new pint bottle, and shake it well. Then pour in 
 half a pint of inodorous akohol, (called by the apothecaries 
 absolute alcohol) shake it hard, and cork it tightly. It im- 
 proves by keeping; and the fragrance will be found de- 
 lightful. If you have no objection to musk, you may add to 
 the other ingredients twelve cents* worth of the tincture 
 of that article. Inodorous alcohol should be used for all 
 Cologne water. The common spirits of wine leaves a smell 
 
448 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 of whisky on the handkerchief, after the perfume of the oils 
 has evaporated. 
 
 A few drops of this Cologne will be more fragrant, and the 
 perfume will continue far longer than that of a table-spoon- 
 ful of such as is usually offered for sale. Much that passes 
 for genuine imported Cologne is in reality made in this 
 country, put up in old, long bottles, and with a false label 
 representing the cathedral, &c. 
 
 I recommend this receipt from long experience of its ex- 
 cellence. 
 
 FARINA'S EAU DE COLOGNE.— 
 
 Oil of bergamot, half an ounce. 
 
 Oil of lemon, a quarter of an ounce. 
 
 Oil of lavender, a quarter of an ounce. 
 
 Oil of rosemary, a quarter of an ounce. 
 
 Oil of Portugal, a quarter of an ounce. 
 
 Essence of neroli, a quarter of an ounce. 
 
 Essence of cedrat, a quarter of an ounce. 
 
 Tincture of musk, ten drops. 
 
 Absolute or inodorous alcohol, one pint. 
 
 Mix all these articles together, in a clean bottle, &c. 
 Shake it well and cork it tightly. It improves by keeping. 
 Shake it every day, for a week or two. 
 
 ANOTHER RECEIPT FOR COLOGNE WATER.— 
 
 Half an ounce of oil of sweet marjoram. 
 
 Half an ounce of oil of thyme. 
 
 Half an ounce of essence of violets. 
 
 Half an ounce of essence of carnations. 
 
 Six drops of oil of cinnamon. 
 
APPENDIX. 449" 
 
 Mix the above in a bottle, and then pour in a pint of in- 
 odorous or absolute alcohol. Cork, and shake it well. 
 
 Both these receipts mixed together, will make the finest 
 possible eau de Cologne ; but either one will be found ex- 
 cellent. 
 
 FINE LAVENDER WATER.— An ounce of oil of laven- 
 der — a hundred drops of essence of ambergris. A pint of in- 
 odorous alcohol ; mixed together, and ttcU shaken. 
 
 THE TOOL CLOSET. — Much inconvenience, and consi- 
 derable expense might be saved, if it was the general custom 
 to keep in every house certain tools for the purpose of per- 
 forming at home what are called small jobs, instead of being 
 always obliged to send for a mechanic and pay him for exe- 
 cuting little things, that, in most cases, could be sufficiently 
 well done by a man or boy belonging to the family, provided 
 that the proper instruments were at hand. The cost of these 
 articles is very trifling, and the advantages of having them' 
 always in the house are far beyond the expense. For in- 
 stance, there should be an axe, a hatchet, a saw, (a large 
 wood-saw also, with a buck or stand if wood is burned,) a 
 claw-hammer ; a mallet ; two gimlets of different sizes, two 
 ecrew-drivers, a chisel, a small plane ; one or two jack- 
 knives ; a pair of large scissors or shears ; and a carpet 
 fork, or stretcher. Also, an assortment of nails of various 
 sizes, from large spikes down to small tacks, not forgetting 
 brass-headed nails, some large and some smaller. Screws, , 
 likewise, will be found very convenient, and hooks on which 
 to hang things. The nails and screws should be kept in a 
 wooden box made with divisions to separate the various 
 sorts, for it is very troublesome to have them mixed. 
 
 38« 
 
450 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 No houso should be without glue, chalk, putty, common 
 paint, cord, twine, and wrapping-paper. And let caro 
 be taken to keep up the supply, lest it should run out unex- 
 pectedly, and the deficiency cause delay and inconvenience 
 at a time when their use is most wanted. 
 
 It is well to have somewhere in the lower part of the 
 house, a deep light closet, appropriated entirely to tools and 
 things of equal utility, for executing promptly such little 
 repairs as convenience may require, without the delay or ex- 
 pense of procuring an artisan. This closet should have at least 
 one large shelf, and that about three feet from the floor. Be- 
 neath this shelf may be a deep drawer divided into two com- 
 partments. This drawer may contain cakes of glue ; pieces 
 of chalk ; hanks of manilla-grass cord ; and balls of twine 
 of different size and quality. 
 
 There may be shelves at the sides of the closet for glue- 
 pots ; paste-pots, and brushes ; pots for black, white, green, 
 and red paint ; cans of painting-oil ; paint-brushes, &c. 
 ' Against the wall, above the large shelf, let the tools be sus- 
 pended, or laid across nails or hooks of proper size to sup- 
 port them. This is much better than keeping them in a box, 
 where they may be injured by rubbing against each other, 
 and the hand may be hurt in feeling among them to find the 
 thing that is wanted. But when hung up against the back- 
 wall of the closet, of course, each tool can be seen at a glance. 
 I have been shown an excellent and simple contrivance for 
 designating the exact places allotted to all these articles in a 
 very complete tool-closet. On the closet-wall, directly under 
 the large nails that support the tools, is drawn with a small 
 brush dipped in black paint or ink, an outline representation 
 of the tool or instrument belonging to that particular place. 
 For instance, under each saw is sketched the outline of that 
 
•APPENDIX. 451 
 
 saw ; unler each gimlet a sketch of that gimlet ; under the 
 screw-drivers are slight drawings of screw-drivers. So that 
 when bringing back any tool that has been taken away fur 
 use, the exact spot to which it belongs can be found in a 
 moment ; and all confusion in putting them up and finding 
 them again is thus prevented. 
 
 Wrapping-paper may be piled on the floor under the large 
 shelf. It can be bought very low by the ream, at the large 
 paper-stores ; and every house should keep a supply of it in 
 several varieties. For instance, coarse brown paper for com- 
 mon purposes ; that denominated ironmonger's paper, which is 
 strong, thick, and in large sheets, is useful for packing heavy 
 articles ; and equally so for keeping silks, -ribbons, blondes, 
 &c., as it preserves their colours. Nankeen paper is best 
 for putting up nice parcels, such as books, and things of fine 
 quality. What is called shoe-paper (each ream containing 
 several colours, red, blue, buflF, &c.) is very useful for wrap- 
 ping nice articles, as it is thin, soft, and not brittle. Shoe- 
 paper is very cheap, generally about fifty cents a ream, and 
 no sort is more useful. 
 
 Newspapers are unfit for wrapping anything, as the print- 
 ing-ink rubs ofi" on the articles inclosed in them, and also 
 soils the gloves of the person that carries the parcel. When 
 shopping, if the person at the counter proceeds to wrap up 
 your purchase In newspaper, (a thing rarely attempted in a 
 genteel store, ) refuse to take it in such a cover. It is the busi- 
 ness of every respectable store-keeper to provide proper paper 
 for this purpose ; and printed paper is not proper. Waste 
 newspapers had best be used for lighting fires, singeing poul- 
 try, and cleaning windows and mirrors. Waste paper that 
 has been written on, cut into slips, and creased and folded, 
 makes very good allumettes or lamp-lighters. It is well to 
 
452 THE HOUSE BOOK. 
 
 keep a large jar or box for scraps of old paper, as it sells for 
 a cent a pound, and these cents may be given to a poor 
 person. 
 
 I have seen people, ■when they were preparing for a jour- 
 ney, or putting up things to send away, almost " at their 
 wit's end'' for want of a sheet of good wrapping-paper, a 
 string of twine, or a few nails to fasten a box. I have 
 known a door to remain open during the whole of a cold 
 day, and a cold evening, for want of a screw-driver to fix a 
 loose lock. It seems scarcely credible that any family in 
 what is called respectable life should be without a hammer. 
 Yet we know persons whose sole dependence for that ever- 
 useful article was on borrowing of a neighbour. And when 
 the hammer was obtained, not a nail of the right size could 
 be found in the house. . 
 
 The attention of boys should be early directed to the use 
 of common tools. If they had tools at hand, there are few boys 
 in our country that would not take pleasure in using them. 
 By seeing carpenters, locksmiths, bell-hangers, glaziers, &c., 
 at work, an observant and clever boy may soon learn to be 
 a tolerably expert amateur in these arts. And this know- 
 ledge may be turned to excellent account if they have occa- 
 sion afterwards to live in a remote place, where artisans are 
 scarce, or not to be procured without much delay and ex- 
 pense. 
 
 I have known boys, (the sons of gentlemen,) who could 
 make a box, or a bench, or a little table — ^who could hang 
 and repair bell-wires, mend locks and hinges ; paint a gate 
 or a railing ; paper a small room, re-lay a brick hearth, re- 
 pair the yard-pavement, and find amusement in doing these 
 things. Coloured servant-men, when there are proper tools 
 at hand, are often very expert at all these jobs. 
 
APPENDIX. 453 
 
 I knew a family, in which there were four boys (descend- 
 ants of Dr. Franklin) who, entirely, and with their own 
 hands, built for themselves, in a large yard, what they called 
 a play-house — meaning a house to play in, when the weather 
 was too bad for recreation in the open air. It was a one 
 story, one-room structure, made of boards, with a shingled 
 roof. It had a well-fitted door, and two well-glazed windows ; 
 and they papered the walls with newspapers. There they 
 could have their fun and make their noise without disturb- 
 ing the family, and this enjoyment amply repaid them for 
 all their trouble. 
 
 Parents, encourage your boys in building such play- 
 houses. 
 
 TO EXTRACT PRICKLY-PEAR— If you have unfor- 
 tunately handled or trodden on the prickly-pear plant, a good 
 way of extracting the painful, though scarcely visible, thorns, 
 is to wash your hands or feet with strong vinegar. 
 
 SEED TICKS. — These very annoying little insects may 
 be expelled by brushing them off with a bunch of penny- 
 royal, or with a bit of cotton dipped in oil of penny-royal. 
 
 SOAPING CLOTHES.— Clotlics will come out much 
 cleaner and whiter, if, before putting them into the tub, 
 some wetted soap is rubbed well on the dirty places. Then 
 roll them up with the soap on them, and lay them aside till 
 the water is hot, and all is ready to begin washing. This 
 the laundresses call "starting the dirt," and it renders them 
 much easier to wash. Afterwards, put them in +he tub, 
 having stirred into the water some of the Washing Mixture, 
 designated at the beginning of this appendix. Press them 
 down with your hands, and proceed as directed in page 429 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Accidents from fire, 147. 
 Alabaster, (to clean,) 199. 
 Anthracite coal, 129. 
 Anthracite coal grates, 129. 
 Ants, (to destroy,) 114. 
 Aronetta dye, 98. 
 Astral lamps, 156. 
 Astral lamps, (management of,) 
 
 157. 
 Attics, (the) 325. 
 
 Baskets, 239. 
 
 Beaver hats, (to take care of,) 70. 
 
 Bed-bugs or chinches, (remedies 
 
 for,) 105. 
 Bedding, 308. 
 Bed-covers, 311. 
 Bed-curtains, 306. 
 Bed feathers, (to wash,) 64. 
 Bed-rooms, to clean,) 318. 
 Beds, (to make up,) 316. 
 Beds, (to warm,) 321. 
 Bedsteads, 303. 
 Bedsteads, (to put up,) 305. 
 Bees, (to keep,) 370. 
 Bells, 332. 
 
 Bishop's lawn, (to wash,) 46. 
 Bituminous or English coal, 141. 
 Blacking, (fine — to make,) 73. 
 Blacking that will preserve the 
 
 leather, 73. 
 Blacking for stoves, 216. 
 
 Black crape, (to remove water- 
 stains from,) 85. 
 Black dye, 99. 
 Black dye for yarn, 104. 
 Black silk, (to wash,) 45. 
 Black silk sleeves, (to restore when 
 
 faded,) 79. 
 Black silk stockings, (to wash,) 58. 
 Black worsted stockings,(to wash,) 
 
 34. 
 Blankets, (to keep through the 
 
 summer,) 310. 
 Blankets, (to wash,) 34. 
 Block tin dish covers, (to clean,) 
 
 207. , 
 Blond, (to wash,) 54. 
 Blue composition, 96. 
 Blue dye, 95. 
 Blue dye, (dark,) 96. 
 Blue dye for yarn, 103. 
 Bobbinet, (to shrink,) 62. 
 Bobbinet or cotton lace, (to wash,) 
 
 51. 
 Body of a dress, (to make,) 410. 
 Bonnet cover, (to make,) 353. 
 Bonnets, (gingham — to wash,) 48. 
 Bonnets, (straw or Leghorn — to 
 
 clean,) 67. 
 Book muslin dresses, (to wash,) 43. 
 Boots and shoes, (to clean,) 72. 
 Boots and shoes, (French polish 
 
 for,) 74. 
 Boot tops, (wash for,) 74. 
 455 
 
456 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Brass, (to clean,) 218. 
 Brass kettles, (to clean,) 219. 
 Bread seals, (to make,) 375. 
 Breakfast table, (to set,) 274. 
 Biick hearths, (to clean,) 201. 
 Brick oven, (to. heat,) 145. 
 Britannia metal, (to clean,) 207. 
 Broken dishes, (to mend,) 291. 
 Broken glass, (to mend,) 292. 
 Brown dye, 100. 
 Brown dye for yarn, 101. 
 Brown linen, (fine — to wash,) 47. 
 Brushing a coat, 75. 
 Brushes, 241. 
 Brushes, (to clean,) 72. 
 Buff colour, (to dye,) 102. 
 Buff dye, (excellent,) 97. 
 Burn salve, (to make,) 150. 
 Butter knives, 254. 
 
 Candles, 167. 
 
 Candles, (common mould — to 
 
 . make,) 168. 
 Candles, (fine home-made,) 169. 
 Candles, (dip — to make,) 170. 
 Candles, (small vrax — to make,) 
 
 169. 
 Cand]esticks,(japannejd — to clean,) 
 
 209. 
 Candlesticks,(silver and plated — to 
 
 clean,) 206. 
 Carpets, 173. 
 Carpet-bags, 352. 
 Carpets, (to beat,) 181. 
 Carpets, (bed-room,) 178. 
 Carpets, (stair,) 179. 
 Carpets, (to sweep,) 180. 
 Carpets, (to wash,) 181. 
 Carpets, (to extract oil from,) 83. 
 Carpets, (rag,) 185. 
 Castors, 251. 
 Carving, 268. 
 
 Cask, (an old one — to sweeten,) 
 
 226. 
 Cellars, 245. 
 
 Cement for alabaster, &c., 293 
 Cement cakes, 294. 
 Cement, (common,) 293. 
 Cement for iron, 293. 
 Chairs, sofas, &c., 296. 
 Chairs, (to clean,) 198, 340. 
 Chair-screens, 153. 
 Chandeliers, (to clean,) 212, 
 Charcoal, 127. 
 Chemises, (to make,) 394. 
 Chimneys, 334. 
 Chi«raneys on fire, 146. 
 China-ware, 290. 
 China, (to pack,) 347. 
 Chinches, or bed-bugs, (to destroy,) 
 
 105. 
 Chintz, (dark — to wash,) 39. 
 Chintz, (furniture — to wash,) 49. 
 Cinnamon brown, (to dye,) 100. 
 Clipping bags, 196. 
 Cloak, (a lady's— to fold,) 77. 
 Clothes balls, 91. 
 Cloth clothes, (to wash,) 35. 
 Clothes brushes, (to clean,) 72. 
 Coal, (anthracite,) 129. 
 Coal grates, (anthracite,) 129. 
 Coal grate fires, 132. 
 Coal stove fires, 139. 
 Coal spark, (to extract from the 
 
 eye,) 150. 
 Coffee starch, 21. 
 Cockroaches, (to destroy,) 109. 
 Coke fires, 142. 
 
 Collar, (false one — to make,) 392. 
 Coloured dresses, (to wash,) 37. 
 Colours, (liquid — to prepare,) 379. 
 Combs, (to clean,) 72. 
 Combs, (tortoise-shell — to mend,) 
 
 71. 
 Cotton coTTiforfablo<;,(to makp,)313. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Cotton stockings, (unbleached — to 
 
 wash,) 59. 
 Cotton cord, (to shrink,) 62. 
 Counterpanes, (to wash,) 313. 
 Court-plaster, (to make,) 381. 
 Cow, (to keep,) 355. 
 Cream oysters, 288. 
 Crickets, (to destroy,) 112. 
 Crockery, (kitchen,) 233. 
 Curtains, 188. 
 Curtains, (to clean,) 189. 
 
 Dairy, 359. 
 
 Dampness in beds, (to detect,) 32X, 
 
 Damp walls, 335. 
 
 Decanters^ (to clean,) 209. 
 
 Dip candles, (to make,) 170. 
 
 Dining-tables, (to polish,) 197. 
 
 Dinner table, (to set,) 256. 
 
 Dinner table^ (to wait on,) 261. 
 
 Doilies, 256. 
 
 Doors and windows, (to stop their 
 
 cracks,) 322. 
 Door locks, 333, 
 Down feathers, (to clean,) 64. 
 Double wrappers, (to make,) 401. 
 Dresses, (coloured — to wash,) 37. 
 Dress, (book muslin — to wash,) 43. 
 Dress, (painted muslin — to wash,) 
 
 42. 
 Dress, (a lady's — to fold,) 75. 
 Dresses, (to fold for packing,) 347. 
 Dress-making, (hints on,) 406. 
 Dress, (a lady's — to make the 
 -• body,) 410. 
 
 Dress, (to make the sleeves,) 416. 
 Dress, (to make the skirt,) 420. 
 Ducks, (to keep,) 369. 
 Durable ink, (to make,) 37.8. 
 Dust, (to remove from a dress,) 86. 
 Dyes, (domestic — remarks on,) 93. 
 Dyos for yarn, (country manner,) 101. 
 
 39 
 
 Enamelled kettles, (to clean,) 220, 
 
 Entrance halls, 328. 
 
 Entry lamps, 160. 
 
 Evening parties, (hints on,) 280. 
 
 Faded dress, (to bleach,) 26. 
 
 False collars, (to make,) 392. 
 
 False shirt-bosoms, (to make,) 393 
 
 Feathers, (bed — to wash,) 64. 
 
 Filtering jars, 244. 
 
 Finger glasses, 254. 
 
 Fire irons, (to clean,) 216, 
 
 Fire irons, (to prevent from rust- 
 ing,) 217. 
 
 Fire screens, 151. 
 
 Flannel, (to make up,) 396. 
 
 Flannel, (new — to shrink,) 31, 32. 
 
 Flannel, (to wash,) 32, 
 
 Fleas, 111. 
 
 Flies, 112. 
 
 Floating tapers, 163. 
 
 Floating tapers, (cheap ones,) 166 
 
 Floating tapers, (to renew,) 164. 
 
 Flower stands, 194. 
 
 Folding clothes for ironing, 26. 
 
 Folding a coat, 75. 
 
 Folding a coat for packing, 348. 
 
 Folding a lady's dress, 75. 
 
 Folding a dress for packing, 347. 
 
 Folding a lady's cloak, 77. '' 
 
 Floors, 335. 
 
 Forks, (to clean,) 213. 
 
 Fowls, (to keep,) 363. 
 
 Front doors, 330. 
 
 Fruit stains, (to remove,) 79. 
 
 Furniture, (black walnut,) 193 
 
 Furniture, (curled maple,) 193, 
 
 Furniture, (mahogany,) 192. 
 
 Furniture, (rose wood,) 193. 
 
 Furniture, (varnished raahogan.* 
 to clean,) 196. 
 
 Furniture, (kitchen,) 228. 
 
458 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Furniture, (to take care when the 
 house is repairing,) 343. 
 
 Geese, (to keep,) 36S. 
 
 German silver, (to clean,) 206. 
 
 Gingham bonnets, (to wash,) 48 
 
 Gilt chandeliers, (to clean,) 212. 
 
 Glass, (broken — to mend,) 292. 
 
 Glass, (to pack,) 347. 
 
 Glass, (to clean,) 210. 
 
 Glass stoppers, (to get out,) 210. 
 
 Gloves, (kid or hoskin — to wash,) 
 61. 
 
 Gloves, (white French thread — to 
 clean,) 59. , 
 
 Gloves, (gentlemen's — to clean,) 
 62. 
 
 Gloves, (wash-leather — to wash,) 
 60. 
 
 Glue stiffening, 22. 
 
 Glue, (common,) 295. 
 
 Glue, (of rice,) 295. 
 
 Gold fish, (to take care of;) 375. 
 
 Gold muslin, (to wash,) 44. 
 
 Gold ornaments, (to clean,) 70. 
 
 Gown dress, (to make,) 425. 
 
 Grates for anthracite coal, 129. 
 
 Grease, (to extract from a dress,) 80. 
 
 Grease spots, (to remove from 
 books,) 83. 
 
 Grease, (to remove from wall pa- 
 per,) 84. 
 
 Green dye, 96. 
 
 Green dye for yarn, 103. 
 
 Green colouring for maps, 379. 
 
 Hearths, (brick — to clean,) 201. 
 Heat marks, (to remove from a 
 
 table,) 88. 
 Hints on evening parties, 280. 
 Hints on dress-making, 406. 
 Hoskin gloves, (to clean,) 61. 
 Hood, (a lady's — to make,) 403. 
 House-cleaning, (preparations for,) 
 
 336. 
 House-cleaning, (finishing,) 342. 
 Household articles, (to pack,) 354. 
 Hydrants, 247. 
 
 Ink, (black— to make,) 376. 
 
 Ink, (durable — to make,) 378. 
 
 Ink, (red — to make,) 378, 
 
 Ink-stains, (to remove from a car- 
 pet,) 87. 
 
 Ink-stains, (to take out of maho- 
 gany,) 88. 
 
 Ink-stains, (to take out of a table- 
 cover,) 86. 
 
 Ink-stains, (to take out of white 
 clothes,) 87. 
 
 Ink-stains, (to take out of un« 
 painted wood,) 88. 
 
 Ink, (marking — to take out,) 87. 
 
 Italian or patent iron, 29. 
 
 Ironing, 26. 
 
 Ironing silk, 31. 
 
 Ironing velvet, 30. 
 
 Iron, (polished — to preserve from 
 rust,) 218. 
 
 Iron ware, 234. 
 
 Iron, (cement for when broken;) 
 293. 
 
 Hard soap, (to make,) 17. 
 Hard soap, (fine — to make,) 18. 
 Hats, (beaver — to take care of,) 70. 
 Head-brushes, (to clean,) 72. 
 Hearths, (stone — to elean,) 201. 
 
 Japanned candlesticks, (to clean,) 
 
 '209. 
 Japanned waiters, (to clean,) 208. 
 Jars, (to purify,) 224". 
 
INDEX, 
 
 450 
 
 Keeping a cow, 355. 
 Kettles, (brass — to clean,) 219. 
 Kettles, (tea— to clean,) 2,21. 
 Kettles, (porcelain,) 220. 
 Kitchen clothes, 240. 
 Kitchen crockery, 233. 
 Kitchen furniture, 228. 
 Kitchen lamps, 163. 
 Knife rests, 254. 
 Knives, (to clean,) 213. 
 
 Lace,(cotton orbobbinet — to wash,) 
 
 51. 
 Lace, (thread — to wash,) 52, 53. 
 Lace, (gold — to clean,) 45. 
 Lace veil, (black — to wash,) 56. 
 Lace veil, (white — to wash,) 55. 
 Lamps, (astral,) 156. 
 Lamps, (astral — to manage,) 157. 
 Lamps, (chamber,) 162. 
 Lamps, (entrj--,) 160. 
 Lamps, (kitchen,) 163. 
 Lamps, (night,) 165. 
 Lamp oil, 155. 
 Lamp oil, (to take out of a carpet,) 
 
 83. 
 Lamp oil, (to take out of a floor,) 82. 
 Lamp oil, to extract from a dress,) 
 
 81. 
 Lamp oil, (to extract from a sofa,) 
 
 82. 
 Lamp rugs, 161. 
 Lanterns, 163. 
 Laundry work, 7. ^ 
 Lawn, (bishop's — to wash,) 46. 
 Leghorn bonnets, (to clean,) 67. 
 Linen, (to make up,) 386. 
 Linen, (mildewed — to restore,) 88. 
 Linen, (scorched — to restore,) 89. 
 Ciuen, (stained — to restore,) 90. 
 'iinen window-blinds, 190. 
 fjinen, (to whiten,) 89. 
 
 Loolfing-glasses, (to clean,) 211. 
 L3'e, (to make,) 13. 
 
 Mahogany furniture, 192. 
 Mahogany furniture, (varnished — 
 
 to clean,) 196. 
 Mahogany tables, (unvarnished — 
 
 to clean,) 197. 
 Mahogany, (to remove ink-spots 
 
 from,) 88. 
 Mahogany chairs and sofas, 198. 
 Maps, (to colour,) 380. 
 Marble, (white — to clean,) 199. 
 Marble, (coloured — to clean,) 200. 
 Marble, (cement for,) 293. 
 Marabout feathers, (to clean,) 64. 
 Marking ink, (to take out,) 87. 
 Marseilles quilt, (to wash,) 313. 
 Mattrasses, (to renew,) 66. 
 Mats for the table, 253. 
 Matting, (straw,) 184. 
 Merino dresses, (to wash,) 41. 
 Mice, 1 17. 
 
 Mildew, (to take out of linen,) 88, 
 Mirrors, 300. 
 Mixture for stains, 91. 
 Moths, 1 15. 
 
 Mould candles, (to make,) 168. 
 Mourning chintz, (to wash,) 39. 
 Mousseline de laine, (to wash,) 4L 
 Mud, (to take out of a dress,) 86. 
 Muslin, (book — to wash,) 43. 
 Muslin, (gold or silver — to wash,) 
 
 44. 
 Muslin, (painted — to wash,) 42 
 Muslins, (small — to do up,) 49. 
 Musquitoes, 112. 
 
 Nankeen, (to wash,) 48. 
 Nankeen colour, (to dye,) 99. 
 Napkins, 255. 
 
460 
 
 1 N D E X. 
 
 New tin, (to remove its taste,) 225. 
 New wood, (to remove its taste,) 
 
 225. 
 Night gowns, (to make,) 398. 
 Night capes, (to make,) 403. 
 Nurseries, 323. 
 
 Oil cans, (to clean,) 155. 
 
 Oil cloths or painted carpets, 183. 
 
 Olive dye, 100. 
 
 Orange dye, 102. 
 
 Ornaments of gold, (to clean,). 70. 
 
 Oysters, (with cream,) 288. 
 
 Oyster patties, 289. 
 
 Polishing dining- tables, 197. 
 Porcelain kettles, 220. 
 Poultry, (to draw,) 272. 
 Pounce, (to make,) 381. 
 Preparations for house-cleaning, 
 
 335. 
 Preparing rooms for summer, 344. 
 Pumps, 247. 
 Putty, (old— to soften,) 292. 
 
 Quilts, (to wash,) 3l2. 
 Quilts, (Marseilles — to wa«h,) 313 
 Quilts, (silk — to make,) 314. 
 Quilted wrappers, 402. 
 
 Packing a carpet hag, 352. 
 Packing glass and china, 347. 
 Packing household articles, 354. 
 Packing a large trunk, 349. 
 Paint, (to clean,) 339. 
 Paint, (to remove from a dress,) 84. 
 Paint, (to remove from a coat,) 85. 
 Paint, (to remove its smell,) 343. 
 Painted muslin, (to wash,) 42. 
 Pantry, 251. 
 
 Paper, (to make transparent,) 380. 
 Paper window-blinds, 190. 
 Paste, (common — for paper,) 294. 
 Paste, (cold,) 295. 
 Paste, (rye,) 295. 
 Pearls, (to clean,) 71. 
 Pelerines, (to make,) 426. 
 Pencil marks, (to preserve,) 381. 
 Pictures, 186. 
 Pink dye, 94. 
 Phials, (to wash,) 211. 
 Plate mixture, (fine,) 204. 
 Plate mixture, (another,) 204, 
 Plated candlesticks, (to clean,) 206. 
 Plated ware, (to clean,) 205. 
 Plate£ and dishes, (to wash,) 223. 
 
 Rabbit skins, (to prepare,) 120. 
 
 Rag carpets, 185, 
 
 Rats, 117. 
 
 Receptacles for dresses, 298. 
 
 Refrigerators, 243. 
 
 Red dye, 94. 
 
 Red dye for yam, 103. 
 
 Red colouring for maps, 379. 
 
 Remarks on bed-chambers, 296. 
 
 Remarks on domestic dyes, 93. 
 
 Remarks on dyeing yarn, 101, 
 
 Remarks on kitchens, 227. 
 
 Remarks on sewing-work, 382. 
 
 Remedies for stings, &c., 116. 
 
 Rennets, (to prepare,) 362. 
 
 Reticules, (travelling,) 352. 
 
 Ribbons, (to wash,) 56. 
 
 Rice glue, 295. 
 
 Rocking-chairs, 194. 
 
 Rush lights, 170. 
 
 Rust, (to take out of steel,) 217 
 
 Safes, 244. 
 
 Salmon colour, (to dye,) 98. 
 
 Salt of lemon, 92. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 461 
 
 Satin shoes, (white — to clean,) 91. 
 
 Scorched linen, (to restore,) 89. 
 
 Scrap jars, 195. 
 
 Scrubbing floors, 341. 
 
 Setting the dinner table, 256. 
 
 Sewing, 3S2. 
 
 Silk, (black — to wash,) 45. 
 
 Silk sleeves, (black — to restore,) 79. 
 
 Silk, (to iron,) 31. 
 
 Silk, (to keep,) 90. 
 
 Silk quilt, (to make,) 314. 
 
 Silver, (to clean,) 201. 
 
 Silver, (German — to clean,) 206. 
 
 Shirts, (to fold,) 349. 
 
 Shirts, (plain ones — to make,) 388. 
 
 Shirts with bosom pieces, 390. 
 
 Shirts open at the back of the 
 neck, 391. 
 
 Shirt bosoms, (false — to make,) 393. 
 
 Shirt collars, (false — to make,) 392. 
 
 Short blinds for windows, 191. 
 
 Shrinking bobbinet, 62. 
 
 Shrinking cotton cord, 62. 
 
 Shrinking new flannel, 31, 32. 
 
 Skirt of a dress, (to make,) 420. 
 
 Skylights, 327. 
 
 Slate colour, (to dye,) 99. 
 
 Sleeves of a dress, (to make,) 416. 
 
 Slop buckets, (to purify,) 224. 
 
 Small muslins, (to wash,) 49. 
 
 Small wax candles, (^to make,) 169. 
 
 Soap fat, (to keep from moulding,) 
 14, 15. 
 
 Soap, (common hard — to make,) 17. 
 
 Soap, (fine hard — to make,) 18. 
 
 Soft soap, (to make,) 15. 
 
 Soda, (for washing,) 24. 
 
 Sofas and mahogany chairs, 198. 
 
 Spark, (to extract 'from the eye,) 
 150. 
 
 Spermaceti, (to take out,) 85. 
 
 Spots of tar and turpentine, (to re- 
 move,) 81. 
 
 39* 
 
 Sprinkling and folding clothea, 2b. 
 Squirrel-skins, (to prepaie,) 120. 
 Stains, *(to remove from ulaok 
 
 crape,) 85. 
 Stains, (to remove from table- 
 linen,) 78. 
 Stains, (to remore from silk,) 79. 
 Stains, (to remove from silvei 
 
 spoons,) 204. 
 Stains of stove pipes, or soot, 83. 
 Stair carpets, 179, 
 Stair rods, (to clean,) 219. 
 Starch, (common — to prepare,) 20. 
 Starch, (gum-arabic,) 21. 
 Starch of home manufacture, 20. 
 Starch made with coffee, 21. 
 Steel, (to remove its rust,) 217. 
 Stockings, (black worsted — to 
 
 wash,) 34. 
 Stockings, (black silk — to wash,) 
 
 58. 
 Stockings, (white silk — to wash,) 
 
 57. 
 Stockings, (silk — to tinge pink,) 
 
 68. 
 Stockings, (French thread — to 
 
 wash,) 59. 
 Stockings, (unbleached cotton — to 
 
 wash,) 59. 
 Stockings, (woollen — to wash,) 33. 
 Stone hearths, (to clean,) 201. 
 Stopping door and window cracks 
 
 322. 
 Store-rooms, 248. 
 Stoves, (blacking for,) 216. 
 Stoves, (glose,) 125. 
 Stoves for coal, 125. 
 Stoves for wood, 127. 
 Straw bonnets, (to clean,) 67. 
 Straw matting, 184. 
 Supper parties, 287. 
 Svvansdown capes or tippets, (t« 
 
 clean,) 63. 
 
462 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Table, (breakfast— to set,) 274. 
 
 Table, (dinner — to set,) 256. 
 
 Table, (to wait on,) 261. 
 
 Table-linen, 255. 
 
 Table mixture, 197. 
 
 Tapers, (floating,) 163. 
 
 Tapers, (floating — very cheap,) 
 166. 
 
 Tapers, (floating — to renew,) 164. 
 
 Tar or turpentine spots, (to re- 
 move,) 81. 
 
 Tea-kettles, (to clean,) 221. 
 
 Tea-table, (to set,) 279. 
 
 Tea things, (to wash,) 222. 
 
 Tea urns, (to clean,) 208. 
 
 Tin dish-covers, (to clean,) 207. 
 
 Tins, (common — to clean,) 208. 
 
 Tin, (new — to remove its taste of 
 rosin,) 225. 
 
 Tin ware, 236. 
 
 Thread gloves and stockings, (to 
 wash,) 59. 
 
 Toilet tables, 300. 
 
 Tortoise shell, (to clean, and mend,) 
 71. 
 
 Trunks, (to pack,) 349. 
 
 Turkeys, (to keep,) 367. 
 
 Venetian blinds, 190. 
 Vials, (to wash,) 211. 
 
 Washing bed-feithers, 64. 
 Washing with soda, 24. 
 Washing white clothes, 22 
 Washing-stands, 301. 
 Wax, (to take out of cloth,) 85. 
 Wax candles, (small ones — t* 
 
 make,) 169. 
 Wax-polish, (for furniture,) 197 
 Whiting, (very fine,) 205. 
 Whitening clothes, 25. 
 White satin shoes, (to clean,) 91 
 White-washing, 338. 
 Wilmington clay balls, 92. 
 Window cracks, (to stop,) 322. 
 Window-blinds of linen, 190. 
 Window blinds of paper, 190. 
 Window panes, (to mend,) 292. 
 Window washing, 340. 
 Wood, 121. 
 Wood fires, 122. 
 Wood stove fires, 123. 
 Wooden ware, 238. 
 Woollen shawls, (to wash,) 37. 
 Woollen stockings, (to wash,) 33. 
 Woollen table-covers, (to wash,) 
 
 36. 
 Woollen yarn, (to wash,) 34. 
 Worsted stockings, (black — to 
 
 wash,) 34. 
 Wrappers, (double — to make,) 401 
 Wrappers, (quilted — to make,) 402 
 
 Waiting on table, 261. 
 Walls, 171. 
 
 Yellow dye, 95. 
 
 Yellow dye for yarn, 103. 
 
A. ITAET, LATE CxVREY & IIAIIT, 
 
 HAS RECENTLY PUBLISHED THE 4tH EDITION OF 
 
 THE LADY'S'NEW RECEIPT BOOK : 
 
 CONTAINING DIRECTIONS FOll 
 
 COOKING, PIlESERVINa, PICKLING, &c. 
 
 BY MISS LESLIE. 
 
 PRICE ONE DOLLAR. 
 
 THE FOLLOWING IS A LIST OF ITS CONTENTS: 
 
 Albany cake 195. 
 
 Alkanet colouring, 250. 
 
 Almond icing, 221. 
 
 Almond pudding, boiled, 112. 
 
 Almond rice pudding, 112. 
 
 Almond soup, 16. 
 
 Altona fritters, 133. 
 
 American chintzes, to wash, 307. 
 
 American citron, 165. 
 
 American prunes, 183. 
 
 Anchovy toast, 29. 
 
 A nts, — to destroy garden ants,280. 
 
 Ants, — to expel small ants, 280. 
 
 Antique oil, 253. 
 
 Apple cake, 221. 
 
 Apples, to keep, 248. 
 
 Apple marmalade, 191. 
 
 Apples meringued, 154. 
 
 Apples (dried,) 184. 
 
 Apple water, 243. 
 
 Artichokes, fried, 42. 
 
 Artificial flowers, fine colouring 
 for, 337. 
 
 Arsenic, remedy for, 290. 
 
 Asparagus loaves, 46. 
 
 Asparagus omelet, 46. 
 
 Atmosphere of a room, to pu- 
 rify, 288. 
 
 Austrian cake, 146. 
 
 Autumn soup, 4. 
 
 Baked tongue, 76. 
 Barberry jam, 174. 
 Bathing the feet, 284. 
 Batter cakes, (Indiana,) 186. 
 Batter cakes, (Kentucky,) 186. 
 Batter cakes, (rye,) 187. 
 Beans, stewed, 49. 
 Bed-bugs, to destroy, 279. 
 Bee-miller, to destroy, 281. 
 Beef, — cold corned, to stew, 73. 
 
 Beef, (French,) 74. 
 
 Beef, minced, 72. 
 
 Beef olives, 75. 
 
 Beef, round of, stewed brown, 69 
 
 Beef, — smoked, to stew, 74. 
 
 Beef-steaks with mushrooms, 72. 
 
 Beef-steak pot-pie, 71. 
 
 Beef's tongue, stewed, 76. 
 
 Beets, to keep, 248. 
 
 Bergamot water, 113. 
 
 Biscuit ice-cream, 161. 
 
 Biscuit pudding, 113. 
 
 Biscuit sandwiches, 85. 
 
 Birds in a grove, (French dish,) 
 
 99. 
 Birds with mushrooms, (French,) 
 
 98. 
 Black lace, to wash, 305. 
 Black-currant jelly, (fine,) 171. 
 Blackberry syrup, 294. 
 Blackberry wine, 233. 
 Blanc-mange, (chocolate,) -150. 
 Blanc-mange, (coffee,) 151. 
 Blanc-mange, (gelatine,) 151. 
 Blanc-mange, (maccaroon,) 149, 
 Blanc-mange, (Spanish,) 147. 
 Blanc-mange, (vanilla,) 148. 
 Blue wash for walls, 264. 
 Bobbinet, (to hem,) 325. 
 Boned turkey, 104. 
 Bonnets, 320. 
 
 Bonnet, to keep white, 323. 
 Boot-bag, to make, 317. 
 Boston cake, 194. 
 Brandy grapes, 182. 
 Brandy green gages, 181. 
 Brandy peaches, (excellent,) 179. 
 Brandy peaches, (fine,) "^9. 
 Brandy peaches, (the French 
 
 way,) 181. 
 Brandy pears, 180. 
 
 loa 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Bread fritters, 136. 
 
 Bread muffins, 188—299. 
 
 Bread, (rice.) 189. 
 
 Brca<l, (rice-flour,) 190. 
 
 Breakfasts for spring and sum- 
 mer, 365. 
 
 Breakfasts for autumn and win- 
 ter, 367. 
 
 Breakfast parties, 368. 
 
 Britannia metal, — to keep it 
 bright, 272. 
 
 Broccoli and eggs, 41. 
 
 Broken cork, to get out of a bottle, 
 268. 
 
 Brown fricassee, 24. 
 
 Brown mixture for a cough, 288. 
 
 Cabbage, an excellent way of 
 
 boiling, 38. 
 Cabbage, (red, to stew,) 37. 
 Cake, Albany, 195. 
 Cake, apple, 221. 
 Cake, Austrian, 196. 
 Cake, Boston, 194. 
 Cake, carraway, 215. 
 Cake, chocolate, 201. 
 Cakes,' cinnamon, 222. 
 Cake, cocoa-nut, (West India,) 
 
 210. 
 Cakes, ginger pound, 223. 
 Cakes, Harlem, 188. 
 Cake, honey, 200. 
 Cakes, ice-cream, 205. 
 Cake, lemon, 210. 
 Cakes, light seed, 215. 
 Cake, Madison, 197. 
 Cakes, molasses, 227. 
 Cakes, palmer, 214. 
 Cakes, peach, 1 99. 
 Cake, rice-flour pound, 210. 
 Cake, rice sponge, 211. 
 Cakes, strawberry, 198. 
 Cake, sweet-potatoe, 212. 
 Cakes, sugar, 227. 
 Cakes, to freshen them, 229. 
 Cake-syllabub, 151. 
 Calf's head, stewed, 61. 
 Calves' feet jelly, (hints on,) 164. 
 Camphor spirits, 290. 
 4G4 
 
 Caper sauce, substitutes for, 17. 
 
 Carbonated syrup-water, 238. 
 
 Carraway gingerbread, 226. 
 
 Carrots, to keep, 248. 
 
 Carrots, stewed, 49. 
 
 Case for combs, brushes, «&c., 318 
 
 Cassia, (oil of,) 253. 
 
 Caterpillars, to destroy, 281. 
 
 Cauliflower, fried, 40. 
 
 Cauliflower omelet, 40. 
 
 Cauliflower maccaroni, 40. 
 
 Cauliflowers and sweetbread, 67 
 
 Celery, fried, 42. 
 
 Cement for jars and bottles, 258. 
 
 Chafed upper-lip, (cure for,) 288. 
 
 Champagne, (gooseberry,) 230. 
 
 Charlotte, (French,) 145. 
 
 Charlotte, (Italian,) 144. 
 
 Charlotte russe, (very fine,) 142. 
 
 Charlotte russe, another way, 143. 
 
 Charlotte pudding, 127. 
 
 Cherry puddingj 118. 
 
 Cherry-water ice, 159. 
 
 Chicken gumbo, 90. 
 
 Chicken patties, 91. 
 
 Chicken pie, (French,) 89. 
 
 Chicken salad, (Italian,) 53. 
 
 Chicken salad, (lettuce,) 52. 
 
 Chicken rice pudding, 91. 
 
 Chickens, stewed whole, 88. 
 
 Chickens with tomatoes, 90. 
 
 Chocolate blanc-monge, 150. 
 
 Chocolate cream, 155. 
 
 Chocolate cream, another way, 
 155. 
 
 Chocolate ice-cream, 160. 
 
 Chocolate maccaroons, 207. 
 
 Chocolate pulls, 213. 
 
 Cider, — to keep it sweet, 249. 
 
 Citron, (American,) 165. 
 
 Citron melons, preserved, 187. 
 
 Clam fritters, 32. 
 
 Clam pie, 31. 
 
 Clam soup, (fine,) 13. 
 
 Clam soup, (excellent,) 14. 
 
 Clam sweelbreails, 68. 
 
 Closets, to clear from cock- 
 roaches, 276. 
 
 Coal-fise, to extinguish, 295. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Coat, dress, or gown, to make it 
 
 set closely to the waist, 337. 
 Cochineal colouring, 250. 
 Cockroaches, 277. 
 Cocoa, 244. 
 Cocoa-nut cake, (West India,) 
 
 210. 
 Cocoa-nut cream, 157. 
 Cocoa-nut pudding, 110. 
 Cocoa-nut puffs, 214. 
 Cocoa-nut soup, 15. 
 Cod-fish, fried, 24. 
 Cod-fish, stewed, 24. 
 Coffee, an excellent way of 
 
 making it, 243. 
 Coflec blanc-mange, 151. 
 Cold corned heef, to stew, 73. 
 Cold potatoes, to stew, 50. 
 Cold starch for linen, 298. 
 Colouring for cheese, 250. 
 Colours of dresses, to preserve, 
 
 303. 
 Coloured water, 251. 
 Coloured silks, French mode of 
 
 washing, 300. 
 Columbian pudding, 107. 
 Columbian soup, 255. 
 Columbus eggs, 92. 
 Combs and brushes, 318. 
 Company dinners for spring, 383. 
 Company dinners for summer, 
 
 384. 
 Company dinners for autumn, 
 
 386. 
 Company dinners for winter, 387. 
 Connecticut sausage meat, 80. 
 Corks, covering for, 258, 
 Corns, to remove from between 
 
 the toes, 327. 
 Corn meal pudding, 1 14. 
 Corrosive sublimate, (antidote 
 
 for,) 231. 
 Cottage pudding, 117. 
 Cream cocoa-nut pudding, 110. 
 Cream, (pistachio,) 156. 
 Cream trout, 23. 
 Cream tarts, 204. 
 Cream, (vanilla,) 157. 
 Crickets, to destroy, 278. 
 
 Croquettes of rice, 92. 
 Croquettes of sweetbreads, 65. 
 Cross buns, 217. 
 Crossing the sea, 356. 
 Crullers, (soft,) 216. 
 Cucumber catchup, 56. 
 Curds and whey, flavoured, 161. 
 Currant ice, 158. 
 Currant jelly, (excellent,) 173. 
 Currant pudding, 118. 
 Custard, (green,) 131. 
 Custard, (red,) 131. 
 
 Damson jam, 1 75. 
 
 Damson-water ice, 159. 
 
 Dark stains, to remove from sil 
 
 ver, 270. 
 Directions for embroidering me- 
 rino, 332. 
 Directions for working slippers, 
 
 327. 
 Directions for making a tabouret, 
 
 339. 
 Domestic Frontiniac, 231. 
 Domestic Tokay, 233. 
 Dried apples, 184. 
 Dried peaches, stewed, 184. 
 Ducks, (canvas-back, dressed 
 
 plain,) 95. 
 Ducks, (canvas-back, roasted,) 
 
 95. 
 Ducks, (canvas-back, stewed,) 
 
 96. 
 Ducks, (wild ducks, stewed,) 94,. 
 Duck soup, 12. 
 Dumplings, (sweetmeat,) 133. 
 Dusting furniture, 275. 
 
 Eggs, to beat, 193. 
 Eggs and broccoli, 41. 
 Embroidery on both sides, 336. 
 Embroidering standards, 335. 
 Excoriated nostrils, (cure for,) 
 
 287. 
 Eye-stone, to apply one, 286. 
 
 Fillet of mutton, 59. 
 Fillet of pork, 77. 
 Frontiniac wine, (domestic,) 231. 
 42* 465 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Flavoured curds and whey, 161. 
 
 Fleas, to expel, 278. 
 
 Fiemington gingerbread, 223. 
 
 Flies, to destroy, 279. 
 
 Four fruit jelly, 174. 
 
 Fowl and oysters, 88. 
 
 French be^f, 74. 
 
 French brandy peaches, 181. 
 
 French charlotte, 145. 
 
 French chicken pie, 85. 
 
 French hungary water, 254. 
 
 French icing for cakes, 220. 
 
 French oyster pie, 30. 
 
 French peas, 48. 
 
 French lamb cutlets, 58- 
 
 French pie, (raised,) 100. 
 
 French stew of rabbits, 84. 
 
 French way of dressing a. shoul- 
 der of veal, 62. 
 
 French method of wasliing co- 
 loured silks, 300. 
 
 Fresh butter, to keep for frying, 
 248. 
 
 Fritters, (Altona,) 133. 
 
 Fritters, (bread,) 136. 
 
 Fritters, (green,) 136. 
 
 Fritters, (Indian,) 137. 
 
 Fritters, (sweetmeat,) 135. 
 
 Fritters, (Washington,) 134. 
 
 Fritters, (wine,) 135. 
 
 Fruit stains, to remove them from 
 doilies, napkins, &c., 276. 
 
 Game, a nice way of cooking 
 
 it, 98. 
 Garden ants, to destroy, 280. 
 Gelatine blanc-mange. 151. 
 Gelatine custard 132. 
 Giblet pie, 103. 
 
 Gingerbread, (carraway,) 226. • 
 Ginger crackers, 224. 
 Gingerbread, (Fiemington,) 223. 
 Gingerbread, (molasses,) 226. 
 Gingerbread for a sea-voyage,225. 
 Gingerbread, spiced, 225. 
 Glass-stopper, to loosen, 267. 
 Gold or silver embroidery, to 
 
 clean, 307. 
 Gooseotti-ry champagne, 230. 
 4GG 
 
 Gooseberry pudding, 118. 
 
 Gposeberry-watcr ice, 159. 
 
 Grapes, iced, 183, 
 
 Grapes in brandy, 182. 
 
 Grease, to extract with cara- 
 phine oil, 263. 
 
 Grease-balls, to make, 263. 
 
 Grease, to remove from a stove- 
 hearth, 274. 
 
 Green custard, 131. 
 
 Green currant wine, 230. 
 
 Green fritters, 136. 
 
 Green gages, preserved, 178. 
 
 Green gages in brandy, 181. 
 
 Ground-nut maccaroons, 209. 
 
 Ground rice pudding, (excellent,) 
 124. 
 
 Grouse or moorfowl pudding, 103. 
 
 Gumbo, (chicken,) 90. 
 
 Gum arabic paste, 258. 
 
 Hair, an excellent way of improv- 
 ing, 259. 
 
 Hair, to have it very good, 260. 
 
 Hair-brushes, convenient ones, 
 318. 
 
 Halibut, stewed, 25. 
 
 Ham pie, (French,) 85. 
 
 Ham, potted, 85. 
 
 Ham toast, 87. 
 
 Hands, to make them smooth and 
 white, 281. 
 
 Hanover pudding, 109. 
 
 Harlem cakes, 188. 
 
 Hearth in summer, 341. 
 
 Hem of a silk dress, to strengthen, 
 326. 
 
 Hints oh calves' feet jelly, 164. 
 
 Hippocras, 234. 
 
 Hoarhound candy, (fine,) 292. 
 
 Honey cake, (fine,) 200. 
 
 Household tools, 347. 
 
 Ice-cream, (biscuit,) 161. 
 Ice-cream cakes, 205. 
 Ice-cream, (chocolate,) 160. 
 Ice-cream, (peach,) 160. 
 Icing, (almond,) 221. 
 Icing for calces, (French,) 220. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Icing for a large cake, 218. 
 
 Iced grapes, 183. 
 
 Iced jelly, 158. 
 
 Imitation lemon syrup, 238. 
 
 Indian fritters, 137. 
 
 Indian pudding, (fine,) 115» 
 
 Indian pudding, (peach,) 115. 
 
 Indian pufl's, 132. ^ 
 
 Ink, to carry while travelling, 3 19. 
 
 Ink, durable — to use, 265. 
 
 Ink, (very fine,) 266. 
 
 Ink, (sumach,) 266. 
 
 Jam, (barberry,) 174. 
 Jam, (damson,) 174. 
 Jars, to clean, 268. 
 Jelly, (black currant, fine,) 174. 
 Jelly, (red currant, excellent,) 1 73. 
 Jelly, (fourfi-uit,) 174. 
 Jelly, (iced,) 158. 
 Jelly, (orange, very fine,) 171. 
 Jelly puffs, or Sunderlands, 146. 
 Jug of molasses, to prevent its 
 running over, 294. 
 
 Kentucky batter-cakes, 186. 
 Knives, paste for cleaning, 272. 
 
 Lace, (black,) to wash, 305. 
 
 Lace, (thread,) to make it look 
 like new, 302. 
 
 Lady's pudding, 128. 
 
 Lady's shoe bag, 317. 
 
 Lamb cutlets, French way, 58. 
 
 Lamb, stewed, 58. 
 
 Lavender compound, (fine,) 293. 
 
 Lavender water, (fine,) 254. 
 
 Laudanum, remedy for an over- 
 dose, 291. 
 
 Lemon cakes, (small,) 200. 
 
 Lemon juice, to preserve, 246. 
 
 Lemon kisses, 206. 
 
 Lemons and oranges, to keep, 247. 
 
 Lemon pickle, (fine,) 55. 
 
 Lemon puffs, 201. 
 
 Lemon syrup, (imitation,) 238. 
 
 Letters, 350.' 
 
 Iiettuce peas, 48. 
 
 Lettuce peas, (plain,) 49^ 
 
 Light paste, 140. 
 Light seed cake, 214. 
 Linen, cold starch for, 298 
 Lip glue, 256. 
 Lip salve, red, 287. 
 Lobster patties, 32. 
 Lobster rissoles, 34. 
 Looking-glasses, to clean, 269 
 
 Maccaroni, (cauliflower,) 40. 
 Maccaroni pudding, 128. 
 Maccaroni blanc-mange, 149. 
 Maccaroons, (chocolate,) 207. 
 Maccaroons, (ground-nut,) 209. 
 Maccaroons, (lemon,) 209. 
 Macassar oil, 252. 
 Mahogany, to take out white 
 
 marks from, 274. 
 Marmalade, (pine apple,) 168. 
 Marmalade pudding, 113. 
 Marrow pudding, 123. 
 Medicated prunes, 291. 
 Meringued apples, 154. 
 Meringues, (rose,) 202. 
 Meringues, (whipt cream,) 203. 
 Merino, to braid, 330. 
 Merino dresses, to work in cross 
 
 stitch, 330. 
 Merino, to embroider, 333. 
 Mice, 280. 
 Milk of roses, 259. 
 Millefleurs perfume, 253. 
 Minced beef, 72. 
 Minced veal, (excellent,) 62. 
 Mince meat, (very fine,) 137. 
 Mince meat, (temperance,) 138. 
 Mince pudding, 121. 
 Molasses cake, 227. 
 Molasses bread-cake, 228. 
 Molasses gingerbread, 226. 
 Molasses, to prevent a jug of i 
 
 from running over, 294. 
 Muff, to keep, 312. 
 Muflins, (bread,) 188—229. 
 Mushrooms, with birds, 98. 
 Mushroom omelet, 43. 
 Mutton cutlets, stewed, 60. 
 Mutton, (fillet of,) 59. 
 
 4U7 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Nectar, 235. 
 
 Nice family dinners for spring, 
 
 377. 
 Nice family dinners for summer, 
 
 378. 
 Nice family dinners for autumn, 
 
 379. 
 Nice family dinners for winter, 
 
 381. 
 Nice way of cooking game, 98. 
 Notions, 235. 
 
 Oil, (antique,) 253. 
 
 Oil of cassia, 253. 
 
 Oil, (Macassar,) 252. 
 
 Oil, to extract it fron? h floor or 
 
 hearth, 274. 
 Olives, (beef,) 75. 
 Olives, (pork,) 79. 
 Onion custard, 57. 
 Opodeldoc, 270. 
 "Orange flummery, 152. 
 Orange jelly, (tine,) 171. 
 Orange juice, to keep, 245. 
 Oranges and lemons, to keep, 247. 
 Orange marmalade, (fine,') 170. 
 Orange milk, 236. 
 Orange puflfs, 202. 
 Orange syrup, 237. 
 Orange tarts, 14. 
 Orleans pudding, 108. 
 Oysters, broiled, 30. 
 Oysters and fowls, 88. 
 Oyster loaves, 28. ^ 
 
 Oyster omelet, 28. 
 Oyster pie, (French,) 80. 
 Oysters and sweetbreads, 68. 
 Oyster suppers, 393. 
 Oyster toast, 30. 
 
 Pain in the feet, to allay, 283. 
 Paint, to remove from the wall of 
 
 a room, 275. 
 Palmer cakes, 214. 
 Paper knife, to use, 346. 
 Parchment glue, 256. 
 Parsnips, to keep fresh., 248. 
 Partridges in pears, 96. 
 Partridge snlmi, 97. 
 468 
 
 Paste, (gum Arabic,) 258. 
 
 Paste, (light,) 140. 
 
 Paste, (transparent,) 139. 
 
 Paste, (perpetual,) 257. 
 
 Patterns, cutting them out, 325. 
 
 Patties, (chicken and turkey,) 62, 
 
 Patties, (lobster,) 32. 
 
 Peaches, (brandy, fine,) 179. 
 
 Peaches, (brandy, excellent,) 179- 
 
 Peaches, (brandy, the French 
 way,) 181. 
 
 Peach cakes, 199. 
 
 Peaches, (dried,) to stew, 184. 
 
 Peach ice cream, 160. 
 
 Peach jam, 177. 
 
 Peach pickles, 56, 
 
 Peaches, preserved, (very fine,) 
 179. 
 
 Peach wine, 231. 
 
 Pears, (brandy,) 180. 
 
 Peas, with lettuce, 48. 
 
 Peas, (French way,) 48. 
 
 Peas, stewed, 47. 
 
 Perfume, (millefleurs,) 253. 
 
 Perpetual paste, 251. 
 
 Persicot, 235. 
 
 Phials, to remove the odour from, 
 267. 
 
 Piano, marking its keys, 345. 
 
 Pictures, taking care of, 313. 
 
 Pie, (clam,) 31. 
 
 Pie, (French ham,) 85. 
 
 Pie, (giblet,) 103. 
 
 Pie, (raised French,) 100. 
 
 Pie, (rice,) 100. 
 
 Pie, (thatched house,) 99. 
 
 Pie, (tongue,) 86. 
 
 Pigeons with ham, 102. 
 
 Pigeon soup, 13. 
 
 Pigs' feet, fried, 79. 
 
 Pine-apples, an easy way of pre- 
 serving, 168. 
 
 Pine-apples, the best way of pre^ 
 serving, 169. 
 
 Pine-apple marmalade, 1 68. 
 
 Pine-apple pudding. 111. 
 
 Pistachio cream, 156. 
 
 Plate powder, 271. 
 
 Plain dinners for spring, 3C9. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Plain dinners for summer, 371. 
 Plain dinners for autumn, 373. 
 Plain dinners for winter, 375. 
 Plum-water ice, 158. 
 Pomatum, (excellent,) 259. 
 Pork, (Italian,) 78. 
 Pork olives, 79. 
 Portrait painter's travelling box, 
 
 314. 
 Potatoes, to stew, 50. 
 Potatoes, to improve when old, 51. 
 Pota toe-flour pudding, 130. 
 Pot-pie, (beef steak,) 71. 
 Potted ham, 85. 
 Powder for cleaning gold lace, 
 
 271. 
 Prickly-heat, cure for, 288. 
 Prunes, (American,) 183. 
 Prunes, (medicated,) 291. 
 Pudding, (almond rice), 112. 
 Pudding, almond, boiled, 112. 
 Pudding, biscuit, 1 13. 
 Pudding, charlotte, 126. 
 Pudding, cherry, 118. 
 Pudding, chicken, (rice,) 91. 
 Pudding, chocolate, 127. 
 Pudding, Columbian, 107. 
 Pudding, corn meal, (excellent,) 
 
 114. 
 Pudding, cottage, 117. 
 Pudding, cream cocoa-nut, 110. 
 Pudding, currant, 118. 
 Pudding, gooseberry, 118. 
 Pudding, ground rice, (excellent,) 
 
 124. 
 Pudding, Hanover, 109. 
 Pudding, Indian, (fine,) 116. 
 Pudding, lady's, 127. 
 Pudding, lemon, boiled, 129. 
 Pudding, maccaroni, 128. 
 Pudding, Marietta, 108. 
 Pudding, marmalade, 113. 
 Pudding, marrow, 123. 
 Pudding, mince, 121. 
 Pudding, moorfowl, or grouse, 103. 
 Pudding, Orleans, 108. 
 Pudding, potatoe-flour, 130. 
 Pudding, raspberry, 117. 
 Pudding, raisin, 120. 
 
 Pudding, tapioca, 123. 
 Pudding, temperance, (plum,) 
 
 120. 
 Pudding, transparent, 123. 
 Pudding, Turkish, (rice,) 110. 
 Pudding, venison, 82. 
 Pudding, venison and chestnut, 
 
 83. 
 Pumpkin mush, 368. 
 Putting away woollens, 309. 
 
 Quinces, 170. 
 
 Rabbit soup, 10. 
 Rabbits, (French stew,) 84. 
 Raisin pudding, 120. 
 Raspberry cordial, (fine,) 239. 
 Raspberry pudding, 117. 
 Raspberry vinegar, (fine,) 240. 
 Raspberry vinegar,(French,) 241. 
 Red cabbage, stewed, 39. 
 Red custard, 131. 
 Red lip-salve, 284. 
 Remedy for arsenic, 290. 
 Rennets, 63. 
 
 Rheumatic pains, relief for, 284. 
 Rhubarb bitters, 294. 
 Rhubarb cups, 147 
 Ribbon sack, 316. 
 Rice-bread, 189. 
 Rice-flour bread, 196. 
 Rice-flour batter cakes, 190. 
 Rice croquettes, 92. 
 Rice-flour pound cake, 210. 
 Rice sponge cake, 211. 
 Rice pie, 100. 
 
 Rice pudding, (chicken,) 91. 
 Rice pudding, (Turkish,) 110. 
 Ring?, brooches, &c., to clean, 270. 
 Ripe currant pudding, 118. 
 Rissoles, (lobster,) 34. 
 Rissoles, (veal,) 64. 
 Rock-fish, stewed, 25. 
 Rolls, (long,) 19. 
 Rolls, (potatoe,) 191. 
 Rose meringues, 202. 
 Rosolis, 234. 
 
 Run-round, cure for, 285, 
 Rye batter cakes, 187. 
 409 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Salmon, baked, 20. 
 
 Salmon, stewed, 19. 
 
 Salmon, roasted, 20. 
 
 Salmon-trout, baked, 23. 
 
 Salt of lemon or stain-powder, 
 
 262. 
 Sandwiches, (biscuit,) 85. 
 Sauce for mutton that has been 
 
 boiled in soup, 17. 
 Scolloped tomatoes, 44. 
 Sea-bass with tomatoes, 22. 
 Sea-voyage gingerbread, 225. 
 Shad, to keep without corning, 26. 
 Sheep's-head fish, (or turbot,) 
 
 baked, 22. 
 Sheep's-head fish, (or turbot,) 
 
 boiled, 21. 
 Shoe-bag, (a lady's,) 317. 
 Shoes or boots, to render water- 
 proof, 274. 
 Shoulder of veal, (French way,) 
 
 62. 
 Silk dress, to clean, 300. 
 Silk shawls or scarfs, to wash, 
 
 299. 
 Silks, French method of washing 
 
 them, 300. 
 Silk dress, to strengthen its hem, 
 
 326. 
 Silver, to clean expeditiously, 
 
 272. 
 Silver, a good way of cleaning, 
 
 271. 
 Silver,to keep always bright271. 
 Smoked beef, to stew, 74. 
 Soap, (Columbian,) 255. 
 Soap, to perfume, 255. 
 Souflfle pudding, 125. 
 Soup, almond, 16. 
 Soup, autumn, 4. 
 Soup, chicken, 11. 
 Soup, clam, (excellent,) 14. 
 Soup, clam, (fine,) 13. 
 Soup, cocoa-nut, 15. 
 Soup, duck, 12. 
 Soup, French white soup, 15. 
 Soup, rabbit, 10. 
 Soup, spring, 3. 
 Soup, summer, 4. 
 470 
 
 Soup, turtle, 34. 
 
 Soup, winter, 5. 
 
 Soup-meat, 17. 
 
 Spanish blanc-mange, 147. 
 
 Spiced gingerbread, 225. 
 
 Spermaceti, to* take out of a hfearlh 
 
 or floor, 274. 
 Spinach, (French way,) 48. 
 Spinach, stewed, 45. 
 Sprained ankle, relief for, 284. 
 Stains, to remove from silver, 270. 
 Standards, to embroider, 336. 
 Stove-hearth, to remove grease 
 from, 274. 
 
 Strawberries, an excellent way 
 of preserving, 176. 
 
 Strawberry cakes, 198. 
 
 Strawberry -water ice, 159. 
 
 Sugar cake, 227. 
 
 Summer hearth, 341. 
 
 Sunderlands, or jelly-puffs, 146. 
 
 Suppers, (oyster,) 393. 
 
 Supper-parties, 392, 
 
 Sweetbreads with cauliflowers, 
 67. 
 
 Sweetbreads with clams, 68. 
 
 Sweetbread croquettes, 65. 
 
 Sweet])read onielet, 69. 
 
 Sweetbreads with oysters, 68. 
 
 Sweetbreads with tomatoes, 66. 
 
 Sweetmeat dumplings, 248. 
 
 Sweetmeat fritters, 133. 
 
 Sweet omelet, 145. 
 
 Sweet potatoe cake, 212. 
 
 Sweet potatoe pone, 189. 
 
 Syllabub cake, 151. 
 
 Sydney Smith's salad-dressing,51. 
 
 Tabouret, (directions for making 
 
 one,) 339. 
 Tapioca pudding, 123. 
 Tarragon sauce, 54. 
 Tea parties, 390. 
 Temperance mince-meat, 138. 
 Temperance plum pudding, 121 
 Terrapin veal, 63. * 
 Tetter, cure for, 287. 
 Thatched house ^ie, 99. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 Thread lace, to make it look al- 
 ways new, 302. 
 Toast water, 243. 
 Tokay wine, (domestic,) 333. 
 'J'oraato chickens, 90. 
 Tomato sweetbreads, 66. 
 Tongue pie, 86. 
 Tongue, toast, 84. 
 Tooth-powder, 256. 
 Towel-case, to make, 318. 
 Transparent paste, 139. 
 Transparent pudding, 123. 
 Trout with cream, 23. 
 Turkey, boned, 104. 
 Turkey patties, 91. 
 Turkish rice pudding, 110. 
 Turtle, to dress, 34. 
 
 Vanilla blanc-mange, 148. 
 
 Vanilla cream, 157. 
 
 Vanilla flummery, 153. 
 
 Vanilla syrup, 236. 
 
 Veal, (fillet of,) corned, 61. 
 
 Veal, loaf, 60. 
 
 Veal, minced, (excellent,) 62. 
 
 Veal olives, 64. 
 
 Veal, shoulder of, (French way,) 
 
 62. 
 Veal dressed as terrapin, 63. 
 Venison pie, 80. 
 Venison pie, (plain,) 81. 
 Venison pudding, 82, 
 Venison chestnut pudding, 83. 
 Vial, to remove the odour from, 
 
 267. 
 Vinegar, (good,) 241. 
 
 Vinegar, (molasses,) 242. 
 Vinegar, (raspberry, French,)241. 
 Vinegar, (raspberry, very fine,) 
 
 240. y 
 
 Wall paper, to take oflT, 275. 
 
 M'^ashing chintzes, 307. 
 
 Washing black-lace, 305. 
 
 Washing coloured cravats, &c.^ 
 309. 
 
 Washington fritters, 134. 
 
 Water-ice, (cherry, 159. 
 
 Water-ice, (damson,) 159. 
 
 Water-ice, (gooseberry,) 159. 
 
 Water-ice, (plum,) 158. 
 
 Water-ice, (strawberry,) 159. 
 
 West India cocoa-nut cake, 210. 
 
 Whalebone and hooks, 324. 
 
 White fi-icassee, 93. 
 
 White lace scarf, to wash, 306. 
 
 White fur, to clean, 312. 
 
 White satin ribbon, to wash, 298. 
 
 White- wash brushes, to clean, 
 264. 
 
 Whipt cream meringues, 203. 
 
 Wild ducks, stewed, 94. 
 
 Wine fritters, 135. 
 
 W^inter soup, 5. 
 
 Wonders, 215. 
 
 Woollens, to put away, 309 
 
 Working slippers, 327. 
 
 Worms in garden walks, to de- 
 stroy, 281. 
 
 Yellow colouring for wails, 264. 
 Young corn omelet, 39. 
 
 ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 
 
 Almond ice-cream, 429. 
 
 — Another way, 430. 
 Alpistera?, (Spanish cake,) 439. 
 Apple jelly, (excellent,) 432. 
 Apple pudding, (Yankee,) 405. 
 Apple tapioca, 416. 
 
 Asparagus, (a nice way of cookiner,) 443. 
 A.'^paragus.(f rench way of dressing,) 443. 
 Autumn leaves, 425. 
 Axjar pickies, 448. 
 Backwoods pot-pie, 487. 
 lieans, (pickled,) 450. 
 Buans and poas, (to keep,) 452. 
 
 Beef gumbo, 445. 
 
 Beef-steak pot-pie, 411. 
 
 Boston rye and Indian bread, 4G2. 
 
 Breakfast rolls, 414. 
 
 Brine for bacon and ham, 447. 
 
 Buckwheat batter pudding, 414. 
 
 Buckwheat cake.s, (excellent,) 476 
 
 Buckwheat porridge, 416. 
 
 Buena Vista cake, 395. 
 
 Cabbage, (frit-d.) 446. 
 
 Cabbage, pickled, (excellent,) 407. 
 
 Cabbage soap, (fine,) 40G. 
 
 Canvas- back ducks, — to broil, 424. 
 
 471 
 
ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS. 
 
 Carolina grits, or small hominy, 491. 
 Carolina corn cakes, 480. 
 Carolina rice cakes, 480. 
 Carolina waj' of boiling rice, 442. 
 Caiilitiower, to fry, 446. 
 Cherries, (pickled,) 452. 
 Chocolate ice cream, 430. 
 
 — Another way, 431. 
 Charlotte russe, (chocolate,) 429. 
 Charlotte russe, (lemon,) 428. 
 Charlotte russe, (Madeira,) 427. 
 Charlotte russe, (orange.) 428. 
 Charlotte russe, (rose,) 428. 
 Chicken pot-pie, 41 2. 
 Cinnamon bread, 399. 
 
 Cold pudding, — to cook, 417. 
 
 Corn, (Indian,) to boil, 487. 
 
 Corn-meal breakfast cakes, 474. 
 
 Corn-meal pudding, (baked,) 485. 
 
 Corn-meal yeast cakes, (dried,) 457. 
 
 Corn oysters, 489. 
 
 Corn porridge, 489. 
 
 Corns,— relief for, 424. 
 
 Currant raisin jam, 402. 
 
 Curry balls, 444. 
 
 Damssons or plums, (pickled,) 451. 
 
 Dumplings, (green corn,) 488. 
 
 Egg balls, 444. 
 
 Egg pone, 4G3. 
 
 Eggs, to keep, 418. 
 
 Farina, 435. 
 
 Tarina flummery, 436. 
 
 — Another way, 437. 
 
 — Another way, 437. 
 Farma gruel, 436. 
 Farina panada, 436. 
 Farina pudding, (baked,) 436. 
 Farina plum-pudding, 437. 
 Farmer's Indian pudding, 483. 
 Fig marmalade, 433. 
 
 Filet gumbo, 406. 
 Flummery, (red.) 434. 
 French mustard, (fine,) 418. 
 Frying fish, 448. 
 Gazpacho, (Spanish,) 441. 
 Green corn dumpling.i, 488. 
 Guisada, (a Spanish stew,) 440. 
 Hog's head cheese, 447. 
 Hoe cake, (common.) 466. 
 Hominy, 491. 
 Hominy cakes, 491. 
 Ire-cream, (almond,) 429, 430. 
 Ice-cream, (lemon,) 431. 
 Ice-cream, (orange,) 431. 
 Icing, — warm, 3'J9. 
 
 Indian batter cakes, (very plain,) 470. 
 Indian bread, or pone, 4C0. 
 Indian rye bread, 461. 
 Indian wheat bread, 462. 
 Indian corn, (for keeping,) 492. 
 Indian crumpets, 474. 
 Indian cup-cakes, 478. 
 Indian griddle cake, 468. 
 Indian dumplings, (very plain,) 469. 
 Indian flappers, 473. 
 Indian-meal gruel, 4C5. 
 Indian hasty pudding 465. 
 Indian light biscuit, 478 
 Indian mush, 464. 
 472 
 
 Indian mufiina, 470. 
 
 Indian boiled pudding, (v^ry niee^, 
 
 484. 
 Indian rice cakes, 475. 
 Indian slap-jacks, 473. 
 Johnny cake, (plain,) 468. 
 Johnny cake, (very nice,) 469. 
 Kentucky sweet cake, 479. 
 Lancaster gingerbread, 398. 
 Lard, (to prepare,) 446. 
 Lemon honey, 401. 
 Madison cake, 481. 
 Madeira cake, 427. 
 Madeira ham, 408. 
 Melon marmalade, 404. 
 Missouri cakes, 472. 
 Mushrooms, — broiled, 412. 
 Mushrooms pickled, (an easy way,) 413. 
 Nantucket pudding, 482. 
 Ochras, dried, 445. 
 Oil for kitchen lamps, (cheap,) 423. 
 Onion eggs, 444. 
 Onions, to pickle, 451. 
 Orange honey, 402. 
 Ovens, hints on heating, 455. 
 Peach mangoes, (fine,) 449. 
 Pear marmalade, 433. 
 Peppers, to pickle, 450. 
 Pine-apples, — to keep without cooking, 
 
 403. 
 Pine-apple marmalade, (fine,) 403. 
 Pisto omelette, (Spanish,) 440. 
 Plums and damsons, (to preserve,) 
 
 451. 
 Polio valenciano, (Spanish,) 440. 
 Pork and beans, (excellent,) 493. 
 Pumpkin Indian calves, 475. 
 Pumpkin Indian pudding, 486. 
 Raisin currants, 402. 
 Ited flummery, 434. 
 Rice blancmange, 435. 
 Rice waffles, 454. 
 Rye batter cakes, (nice,) 477. 
 Rye mush, 466. 
 Roxbury tea cakes, 438. 
 Saccatash, (for summer,) 489. 
 Saccatash, (for winter,) 490. 
 Samp, 491. 
 Samp pudding, 483. 
 Scotch short cake, 453. 
 Silk, — new waj' of washing, 421. 
 Snow cream, 4f)0. 
 Spanish salad, 441. 
 Spermaceti, — to extract, 423. 
 Stair-carpets, — to save, 421, 
 Terra firma, 417. 
 Terrapin potrpie, 410. 
 Terrapins, — a new way of dressing 
 
 409. 
 Tomato marmalade, 405. 
 Tomato marmalade, 433. 
 Tomato paste, 445. 
 Virginia griddle cakes, 471. 
 Wafer cakes, (fine,) 397. 
 Washington pudding, 419. 
 Wine jelly, 431. 
 
 Yeast cakes, (dried corn-meal,) 457. 
 Yeast, (excellent home-made,) 466. 
 Yeast powders, 396. 
 
PUBLISHED BY 
 
 HENRY CAEEY BAIRD, 
 
 INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHER, 
 
 PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 < » > • » 
 
 53=* Any of the following Books will be sent by mail, free 
 of postage, at the publication price. Catalogues furnished 
 on application. 
 
 -<■»♦♦» 
 
 American Miller and Millwright's Assistant: 
 
 A new and thorouglily revised Edition, with additional 
 Engravings. By William Carter Hughes. In one vol- 
 ume, 12 mo., $1.00 
 
 Aruiengaud, Amoroux, and Johnson. 
 
 THE PRACTICAL DRAUGHTSMAN'S BOOK OF INDUS- 
 TRIAL DESIGN, and Machinist's and Engineer's Drawing 
 Companion ; forming a complete course of Mecliauical 
 Engineering and Architectural Drawing. From the French 
 of M. Armengaud the elder. Prof, of Design in the Con- 
 servatoire of Arts and Industry, Paris, and MM. Armen- 
 gaud the younger, and Amouroux, Civil Engineers. Re- 
 written and arranged, with additional matter and plates, 
 selections from and examples of the most useful and 
 generally employed mechanism of the day. By William 
 Johnson, Assoc. Inst. C. E., Editor of ''The Practical 
 Mechanic's Journal." Illustrated by fifty folio steel 
 plates and fifty wood-cuts. A new edition, 4to.,....$7.50 
 Among the contents are -.—Linear Drawing, Definitions and Problems, 
 Plate I. Applications, Designs for inlaid Pavements, Ceilings and 
 Balconies, Plate XL Sweeps, Sections and Mouldings, Plate III. Ele 
 mentary Gothic Forms and Rosette«, Plate IV. Ovals, Ellipses, 
 
PKACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 
 
 Parabolas and Volutes, Plate V. Rules and Practical Data. Stvdy o* 
 Projectiovs, Elementary Principles, Plate VI. Of Prisms and other 
 Solids, Plate VII. Rules and Practical Data. On ColoHng Sections, with 
 Applicnti07is— Conventional Colors, Composition or Mixture of Colors, 
 Plate X. Continuation of the Study of Projections— \J&e of sections — de- 
 tails of machinery, Plate XI. Simple applications— spindles, shafts, 
 couplings, wooden patterns, Plate XII. Method of constructing a 
 wooden model or pattern of a coupling, Elementary applications- 
 rails and chairs for railways, Plate XIII. Rules and Practical Data- 
 Strength of material, Resistance to compression or crushing force, 
 Tensional Resistance, Resistance to flexure, Resistance to torsion, 
 Friction of surfaces in contact. 
 
 The Intersection and Development qf Svrfaces, with Ap- 
 plications. — The Intersection of Cylinders and Cones', Plate XIV. The 
 Delineation and Development of Helices, Screws And Serpentines, Plate 
 
 XV. Application of the helix— the construction of a staircase, Plate 
 
 XVI. The Intersection of surfaces — applications to stop-cocks, Plate 
 
 XVII. Rules and Practical Da/a— Steam, Unity of heat. Heating surface, 
 Calculation of the dimensions of boilers, Dimensions of tiregratea. 
 Chimneys, Safety-valves. 
 
 The Study and Construction of Toothed Gear.— Involute, cy- 
 cloid, and epicycloid, Plates XVIII. and XIX. Involute, Fig. 1, Plate 
 
 XVIII. Cycloid, Fig. 2, Plate XVIII. External epicycloid, described 
 by a circle rolling about a fixed circle inside it, Fig. 3, Plate XIX. 
 Internal epicycloid, Fig. 2, Plate XIX. Delineation of a rack and 
 pinion in gear. Fig. 4, Plate XVIII. Gearing of a worm with a worm- 
 wheel. Figs. 5 and 6, Plate XVIII. Cylindrical or Spur Gearing, Plate 
 
 XIX. Practical delineation of a couple of Spur-wheels, Plate XX. 
 The Delineation and Construction of Wooden Patterns for Toothed Wheels, 
 Plate XXI. Rules and Practical Data — Toothed gearing, Angular and 
 circumferential velocity of wheels. Dimensions of gearing. Thickness 
 of the teeth. Pitch of the teeth. Dimensions of the web, Number and 
 dimensions of the arms, wooden patterns. 
 
 Continuation of the Study of Toothed Gear. — Design for a 
 pair of bevel-wheels in gear, Plate XXII. Construction of wooden 
 patterns for a pair of bevel-wheels, Plate XXIII. Involute and 
 Helical Teeth, Plate XXIV. Contrivances for obtaining Differential 
 Movements — The delineation of eccentrics and cams, Plate XXV. Rules 
 and Practical Dato— Mechanical work of effect, The simple machines,^ 
 Centre of gravity. On estimating the power of prime movers, Calcu- 
 lation for the brake. The fall of bodies, Momentum, Central forces. 
 
 Elementary Principles of Shadows. — Shadows of Prisms, Pyra^ 
 mids and Cylinders, Plate XXVI. Principles of Shading, Plate XXVII. 
 Coniinualion of the Study of Shadows, Plate XXVIII. Tuscan Order, 
 Plate XXIX. Rules and Practical Data — Pumps, Hydrostatic principles, 
 Forcing pumps. Lilting and forcing pumps. The Hydrostatic press, 
 Hydrostatical calculations and data — discharge of water through dif- 
 ferent orifices. Gaging of a water-course of uniform section and fall, 
 Velocity of the bottom of water-courses. Calculation of the discharge 
 of water through rectangular orifices of narrow edges. Calculation of 
 the discharge of water through overshot outlets, To determine the 
 width of an overshot outlet, To determine the depth of the outlet, 
 Outlet with a spout or duct. 
 
 Application of Shadows to Toothed Gear, Plate XXX. Ap- 
 plication of Shadows to Sa-ews, Plate XXXI. Application of Shadows to 
 a Boiler and its Furnace, Plate XXXII. Shading in Black — Shading in 
 Colors, Plate XXXIII. 
 
 The Cutting and Shaping of Masonry, Plate XXXIV. Rules 
 and Practical Data — Hydraulic motors, Undershot water wheels, with 
 plane floats and a circular channel. Width, Diameter, Velocity, Num- 
 ber and capacity of the buckets. Useful efffect of the water wheel, 
 Overshot water wheels, Water wheels with radial floats, Water wheel 
 With curved buckets. Turbines. Remarks on Machine Tools. 
 2 
 
PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 
 
 The Study of Machinery and Sketching. — Various applications 
 and combinations : The Sketching of Machinery, Plates XXXV. and 
 XXXVI. Drilling Machine; Motive Machines; Warter wheels, Con- 
 struction and setting up of water wheels, Delineation of water wheels, 
 Design for a water wheel. Sketch of a water wheel ; Overshot Water 
 mieels. Water Pumps, Plate XXXVII, Steam Motors; High-pressure 
 expansive steam engine. Plates XXXVIII., XXXIX. and XL. Details 
 of Construction ; Movements of the Distribution and Expansion Valves ; 
 Rules and Practical Data — Steam engines : Low-pressure condensing 
 engines without expansion valve. Diameter of piston. Velocities. 
 Steam pipes and passages, Air-pump and condenser, Cold-water and 
 feed-pumps. High-pressure expansive engines, Medium pressure con- 
 densing and expansive steam engine, Conical pendulum or centrifugal 
 governor. 
 
 Oblique Projections. — Application of rules to the delineation of 
 an oscillating cylinder, Plate XLI. 
 
 Parallel Perspective. — Principles and applications, Plate XLII. 
 
 True Perspective. — Elementary principles, Plate XLIII. Appli- 
 cations—flour mill driven by belts. Plates XLIV. and XLV. Descrip- 
 tion of the mill, Representation of the mill in perspective, Notes of 
 recent improvements in flour mills, Schiele's mill, Mullin's " ring mill- 
 stone," Barnett's millstone, Hastie's arrangement for driving mills, 
 Currie's improvements in millstones ; Rules and Practical Data — Work 
 performed by various machines, Flour mills, Saw mills, Veneer-sawing 
 machines. Circular saws. 
 
 Examples of Finished Drawings of Machinery.— Plate A, 
 Balance water-meter ; Plate B, Engineer's shaping machine ; Plate 
 C D E, Express locomotive engine ; Plate F., Wood planing machine ; 
 Plate G, Washing machine for piece goods ; Plate H, power loom ; 
 Plate I, Duplex steam boiler ; Plate J, Direct-acting marine engines. 
 
 Drawing Instruments. 
 
 Barnard (Henry). National Education in Eu- 
 rope ; 
 
 Being an Account of the Organization, Administration, 
 Instruction, and Statistics of Public Schools of diflfer- 
 ent grades in the principal States. 890 pages, 8vo., 
 cloth, $3.00 
 
 Barnard (Henry). School Architecture. 
 
 New Edition, 300 cuts, cloth, $2.00 
 
 Beans. A Treatise on Railroad Cnrves and the 
 Location of Railroads. 
 
 By E. W. Beans, C. E. 12mo. (In press.) 
 
 Bishop. A History of American Manufactures, 
 
 From 1608 to 1860 ; exhibiting the Origin and Growth 
 of the Principal Mechanic Arts and Manufactures, from 
 the Earliest Colonial Period to the Present Time ; with a 
 
 3 
 
fracticaIj and scientific books, 
 
 Notice of the Important Inventions, Tariffs, and the Re- 
 sults of each Decennial Census. By J. Leander Bishop, 
 M. D, : to which is added Notes on the Principal Manu- 
 facturing Centres and Remarkable Manufactories. By 
 Edward Young and Edwin T. Freedley. In two vols., 
 8vo. Vol. 1 now ready. Price, $3.00 
 
 Bookbinding : A Manual of the Art of Book- 
 binding, 
 
 Containing full instructions in the different branches of 
 Forwarding, Gilding and Finishing. Also, the Art of 
 Marbling Book-edges and Paper. By James B. Nicholson. 
 Illustrated. 12mo., cloth, $1.75 
 
 CONTENTS.— Sketch of the Progress of Bookbinding, Sheet- 
 work, Forwarding the Edges, Marbling, Gilding the Edges, Covering, 
 Half Binding, Blank Binding, Boarding, Cloth-work, Ornamental Art, 
 Finishing, Taste and Design, Styles, Gilding, Illuminated Binding, 
 Blind Tooling, Antique, Coloring, Marbling, Uniform Colors, Gold 
 Marbling, Landscapes, etc.. Inlaid Ornaments, Harmony of Colors, 
 Pasting Down, etc.. Stamp or Press-work, Restoring the Bindings of 
 Old Books, Supplying imperfections in Old Books, Hints to Book Col- 
 lectors, Technical Lessons. 
 
 Booth and Morfit. The Encyclopedia of 
 Chemistry, Practical and Theoretical i 
 
 Embracing its application ta.the Arts, Metallurgy, Mine- 
 ralogy, Geology, Medicine, and Pharmacy, By James C. 
 Booth, Melter and Refiner in the United States Mint ; 
 Professor of Applied Chemistry in the Franklin Institute, 
 etc.; assisted by Campbell Morfit, author of "Chemical 
 Manipulations," etc. 7th. Edition. Complete in one 
 volume, royal octavo, 978 pages, with numerous wood 
 cuts and other illustrations, $5.00 
 
 From the very large number of articles in this volume, it is entirely 
 impossible to give a list of the Contents, but attention may be called 
 to some among the more elaborate, such as Affinity, Alcoholometry, 
 Ammonium, Analysis, Antimony, Arsenic, Blowpipes, Cyanogen, Dis- 
 tillation, Electricity, Ethyl, Fermentation, Iron, Lead and Water. 
 
 Brewer; (The Complete Practical.) 
 
 Or Plain, Concise, and Accurate Instructions in the Art 
 of Brewing Beer, Ale, Porter, etc., etc., and the Process 
 of Making all the Small Beers. By M. Lafayette Bykn, 
 
 M. D. With Illustrations. 12mo $1.00 
 
 *■' Many an old brewer will find in this book valuable hints and sug- 
 4 
 
PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD, 
 
 gestions worthy of consideration, and the novice can post himself up 
 in hi9' trade in all its p&rta.^'— Artisan. 
 
 Biiilder^s Pocket Companion: 
 
 Containing tlie Elements of Building, Surveying, and 
 Architecture ; with Practical Rules and Instructions con- 
 nected with the subject. By A. C. Smeaton, Civil Engi- 
 neer, etc. . In one volume, 12mo., $1.00 
 
 CONTENTS.— The Builder, Carpenter, Joiner, Mason, Plasterer, 
 Plumber, Painter, Smith, Practical Geometry, Surveyor, Cohesive 
 Strength of Bodies, Architect. 
 
 " It gives, in a small space, the most thorough directions to the 
 builder, from the laying of a brick, or the felling of a tree, up to the 
 most elaborate production of ornamental architecture. It is scientific, 
 without being obscure and unintelligible ; and every house-carpenter^ 
 master, journeyman, or apprentice, should have a copy at hand 
 always."— jB«e}a?iy BuUttin. 
 
 Byrne. The Handbook for the Artisan, Me- 
 chanic, and Engineer, 
 
 Containing Instructions in Grinding and Sharpening of 
 Cutting Tools, Figuration of Materials by Abrasion, Lapi- 
 dary Work, Grem and Glass Engraving, Varnishing and 
 Lackering, Abrasive Processes, etc., etc. By Oliver 
 Byrne. Illustrated with 11 large plates and 185 cuts. 
 8vo., cloth, $5.00 
 
 CONTENTS.— Grinding Cutting Tools on the Ordinary Grind- 
 stone ; Sharpening Cutting Tools on the Oilstone ; Setting Razors ; 
 Sharpening Cutting Tools Avith Artificial Grinders ; Production of Plane 
 Surfaces by Abrasion ; Production of Cylindrical Surfaces by Abra- 
 sion ; Production of Conical Surfaces by Abrasion ; Production of 
 Spherical Surfaces by Abrasion ; Glass Cutting ; Lapidary Work ; 
 Setting, Cutting, and Polishing Flat and Rounded Works ; Cutting 
 Faucets ; Lapidary Apparatus for Amateurs ; Gem and Glass Engrav- 
 ing ; Seal and Gem Engraving ; Cameo Cutting ; Glass Engraving, 
 Varnishing, and Lackering ; General Remarks upon Abrasive Pro- 
 cesses ; Dictionary of Apparatus ; Materials and Processes for Grinding 
 and Polishing commonly employed in the Mechanical and Useful Arts. 
 
 rue. The Practical MelaI'Worker\s Assist- 
 ant, 
 
 For Tin-plate Workers, Braziers, Coppersmiths, Zinc- 
 plate Ornrmenters and Workers, Wire Workers, White- 
 smiths, Blacksmiths, Bell Hangers, Jewellers, Silver and 
 Gold Smiths, Electrotypers, and all other Workers in 
 Alloys and Metals. Edited by Oliver Byrne. Complete 
 in one volume, octavo, $7.50 
 
 It treats of Casting, Founding, and Forging; of Tongs and other 
 Tools; Degrees of Heat and Management of Fires; Welding of 
 
 5 
 
 By 
 
PKACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 
 
 Heading and Swage Tools ; of Punches and Anvils ; of Hardening and 
 Tempering; of Malleable Iron Castings, Case Hardening, Wrought 
 and Cast Iron ; the Management and Manipulation of Metals and 
 Alloys, Melting and Mixing ; the Management of Furnaces, Casting 
 and Founding with Metallic Moulds, Joining and Working Sheet Metal ; 
 Peculiarities of the different Tools employed ; Processes dependent on 
 the ductility of Metals ; Wire Drawing, Drawing Metal Tubes, Solder- 
 ing ; The use of the Blowpipe, and every other known Metal Worker's 
 Tool. 
 
 Bvrae. The Practical Model Calculator, 
 
 • . ' 
 
 For the Engineer, Machiuist, Manufacturer of Engine 
 Work, Naval Architect, Miner, and Millwright. By 
 Oliver Byrne, Compiler and Editor of the Dictionary of 
 Machines, Mechanics, Engine Work and Engineering, and 
 Author of various Mathematical and Mechanical Works. 
 Illustrated hy numerous engravings. Complete in one 
 large volume, octavo, of nearly six hundred pages,. .$3. 50 
 
 The principal objects of this work are : to establish model calcula- 
 tions to guide practical men and students ; to illustrate every practical 
 rule and principle by numerical calculations, systematically arranged ; 
 to give information and data indispensable to those for whom it is in- 
 tended, thus surpassing in value any other book of its character ; to 
 economize the labor of the practical man, and to render his every-day 
 calculations easy and comprehensive. It will be found to be one of 
 the most complete and valuable practical books ever published. 
 
 Cabinetmaker's and Upholsterer's Companion, 
 
 Comprising the Rudiments and Principles of Cabinet - 
 making and Upholstery, with Familiar Instructions, il- 
 lustrated by Examples for attaining a proficiency in the 
 Art of Drawing, as applicable to Cabinet Work ; the 
 processes of Veneering, Inlaying, and Buhl Work ; the 
 Art of Dyeing and Staining Wood, Bone, Tortoise Shell, 
 etc. Directions for Lackering, Japanning, and Varnish- 
 ing ; to make French Polish ; to prepare the best Glues, 
 Cements, and Compositions, and a number of Receipts 
 particularly useful for Workmen generally. By J. Stokes. 
 In one volume, 12mo. With Illustrations, 75 
 
 " A large amount of practical information, of great service to all 
 concerned in those branches of business." — Ohio State Journal. 
 
 ('ampion. A Practical Treatise on Mechanical 
 Engineering ; 
 
 Comprising Metallurgy, Moulding, Casting, Forging Tools, 
 Workshop Machinery, Mechanical Manipulation, Manu- 
 facture of Steam Engine, etc., etc. Illusy-ated with 28 
 plates of Boilers, Steam Engines, Workshop Machinery, 
 
 6 
 
PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 
 
 etc., and 91 Wood Engravings ; with an Appendix on the 
 Analysis of Iron and Iron Ores. By Francis Camp-on, 
 C. E , Pi'esident of the Civil and Mechanical Engineers' 
 Society, etc. [In press.) 
 
 Celuart. The Perfumer. 
 
 From the French of Madame Celnart ; with additions by 
 Professor H. Dussauce. 8vo. {In press.) 
 
 Colburn. The Locomolive Engine ; 
 
 Including a Description of its Structure, Rules for Esti- 
 mating its Capabilities, and Practical Observations on its 
 Construction and Management. By Zerah Colbukn. Il- 
 lustrated. A new edition. 12mo,....! • 75 
 
 " It is the most practical and generally useful work on the Steam 
 Engine that we have seen." — Bof,to7i TravtUr." 
 
 Daguerreolypist and Photographer^ s Companion. 
 
 12mo., cloth, $1.00 
 
 Distiller (The Complete Practical). 
 
 By M. Lafayette Byrit, M.D. With Illustrations. 12mo. 
 
 $1.00 
 
 " So simplified, that it is adapted not only to the use of extensive 
 Distillers, but for every farmer, or others who may want to engage in 
 Distilling." — Banntr of the Union. 
 
 Dussaiice. Practical Treatise 
 
 On the Fabrication of Matches, Gun Cotton, and Fulmi- 
 nating Powders. By Prof. H. Dussauce. {In press.) 
 
 CONTENTS.— -Pfto52^ftorws. —History of Phosphorus; Physical 
 Properties ; Chemical Properties ; Natural State ; Preparation of 
 White Phosphorus ; Amorphous Phosphorus, and Benoxide of Lead. 
 Mutches. — Preparation of Wooden Matches ; Matches inflammable by 
 rubbing, without noise ; Common Lucifer Matches : Matches without 
 Phosphorus ; Candle Matches ; Matches with Amorphous Phospho- 
 rus ; Matches and Rubbers without Phosphorus. Gun Cotton. — Proper- 
 ties ; Preparation ; Paper Powder ; use of Cotton and Paper Powders 
 for Fulminating Primers, etc.; Preparation of Fulminating Primers, 
 etc., etc. 
 
 Dussauce. Chemical Receipt Book: 
 
 A General Formulary for the Fabrication of Leading 
 Chemicals, and their Application to the Arts, Manufac- 
 tures, Metallurgy, and Agriculture. By Prof. H. Dus- 
 sauce. {In press.) 
 
 7 
 
PEACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 
 
 DYEING, CALICO PEINTING, COLOES, COTTON SPIN- 
 NING, AND WOOLEN MANUFACTURE. 
 
 Baii'd. The American Cotton Spinner, and 
 Manager's and Carder's Guide: 
 
 A Practical Treatise on Cotton Spinning ; giving the Di- 
 mensions and Speed of Machinery, Draught and Twist 
 Calculations, etc.; with Notices of recent Improvements : 
 together with Rules and Examples for making changes 
 in the sizes and numbers of Roving and Yarn. Com- 
 piled from the papers of the late Robert H. Baird. 
 
 12mo $1.25 
 
 > 
 
 Capron De Dole. Dussance. Blues and Car- 
 mines of Indigo: 
 
 A Practical Treatise on the Fabrication of every Commer 
 cial Product derived from Indigo. By Felicien Capron 
 de Dole. Translated, with important additions, by Pro- 
 fessor H. Dussauce. 12mo $2..'>0 
 
 Chemistry Applied to Dyeing. 
 
 By James Napier, F. C. S. Illustrated. ]2mo $2.00 
 
 CONTENTS.— G^ewemZ Propei-ties of Mrtfter.— Heat, Light, Ele- 
 ments of Matter, Chemical Afflnitj\ Non-MdalLU: Substances. — Oxygen, 
 Hjdrogen, Nitrogen, Chlorine, Sulphur, Selenium, Phosphorus, Iodine, 
 Bromine, Fluorine, Silicum, Boron, Carbon. Metallic Substances. — 
 General Properties of Metals, Potassium, Sodium, Lithium, Soap, 
 Barium, Strontium, Calcium, Magnesium, Alminum, Manganese, Iron, 
 Cobalt, Nickel, Zinc, Cadmium, Copper, Lead, Bismuth, Tin, Titanium, 
 Chromium, Vanadium, Tungstenum or Wolfram, Molybdenum, Tella- 
 rium. Arsenic, Antimony, Uranium, Cerium, Mercury, Silver, Gold, 
 Platinum, Palladium, Iridium, Osmium, Rhodium, Lanthanium. Moi-- 
 dants. — Red Spirits, Barwood Spirits, Plumb Spirits, Yellow Spirits, 
 Nitrate of Iron, Acetate of Alumina, Black Iron Liquor, Iron and Tin • 
 for Royal Blues, Acetate of Copper. Vegetable Matters used in Dyeing. — 
 Galls, Sumach, Catechu, Indigo, Logwood, Brazil-woods, Sandal-wood, 
 Barwood, Camwood, Fustic, Young Fustic, Bark or Quercitron, Fla- 
 vine. Weld or Wold, Turmeric, Persian Berries, Safilovver, Madder, 
 Munjeet, Annota, Alkanet Root, Archil. Proposfd New Vegetable 
 Dyes. — Sooranjee, Carajuru, Worigshy, Aloes, Pittacal, Barbary Root. 
 Animal Matters used in Dyeing. — Cochineal, Lake or Lac, Kerms. 
 
 This will be found one of the most valuable books on the subject of 
 dyeing, ever published in this country. 
 
 Dussauce. Treatise on the Coloring Matters 
 Derived from Coal Tar; 
 
 Their Practical Application in Dyeing Cotton, Wool, and 
 
PUBLISHED BY HE^NTIIY CAREY BAIRD. 
 
 Silk ; the Principles of the Art of Dyeing and of the Dis- 
 tillation of Coal Tar; with a Description of the most Im- 
 portant New Dyes now in use. By Professor H. Dus- 
 sauce, Chemist. 12mo A2.50 
 
 COWTENTS.-Historical Notice of the Art of Dyeing-Chemical 
 Principles of the Art of Dyeing— Preliminary Preparation of Stutts— 
 Mordants— Dyeing— On the Coloring Matters produced by Coal Tar— 
 Distillation of Coal Tar— History of Aniline— Properties of Aniline- 
 Preparation of Aniline directly from Coal Tar— Artificial Preparation 
 ?■ A'^Vine— Preparation of Benzole— Properties of Benzole— Prepara- 
 tion of Nitro-Benzole- Transformation of Nitro-Benzole into Aniline, 
 bj' means of Sulphide of Ammonium ; by Nascent Hydrogen ; by Ace- 
 tate of Iron ; and by Arsenite of Potash— Properties of the Bi-Nitro- 
 Benzole— Aniline Purple— Violine — Roseine-Emeraldine- Bleu de 
 Pans— Futschine, or Magenta— Coloring Matters obtained by other 
 bas£-3 from Coal Tar— Nitroso-Phenyline— Di Nitro-Aniline— Nitro- 
 Phenyline— Picric Acid— Rosolic Acid— Quinoline— Napthaline Colors 
 --Chloroxynaphthalic and Perchloroxynapthalic Acids— Carminaph- 
 tha— Ninaphthalamine— Nitrosonaphthaline— Naphthamein— Tar Red 
 —Azuhne— Application of Coal Tar Colors to the Art of Dyeing and 
 Calico Printing— Action of Light on Coloring Matters from Coal Tar 
 —Latest Improvements in the Art of Dyeing— Chrysammic Acid— Mo- 
 lybdic and Picric Acids— Extract of Madder— Theory of the Fixation 
 of Coloring Matters in Dyeing and Printing— Principles of the Action 
 of the most important Mordants— Aluminous Mordants— Ferruginous 
 Mordants— Stanniferous Mordants— Artificial Alizarin— Metallic Hy- 
 posulphites as Mordants— Dyer's Soap— Preparation of Indigo for Dye- 
 ing and Printing— Relative Value of Indigo— Chinese Green Murexide. 
 
 Dyer and Color-fflaker's Companion : 
 
 Containing upwards of two hundred Receipts for making 
 Colors, on the most approved principles, for all the 
 various styles and fabrics now in existence ; with the 
 Scouring Process, and plain Directions for Preparing, 
 Washing-off, and Finishing the Goods. Second edition. 
 In one volume, 12mo 75 
 
 French Dyer, (The) : 
 
 Comprising the Art of Dyeing in Woolen, Silk, Cotton, 
 etc., etc. By M. M. Riffaalt, Vernaud, De Fonteuelle, 
 Thillaye, and^Iallepeyre. {In press.) 
 
 Love. The Art of Dyeing, Cleaning, Sconring, 
 and Finishing, 
 
 On the Most Approved English and French Methods ; 
 being Practical Instructions in Dyeing Silks, Woolens 
 and Cottons, Feathers, Chips, Straw, etc.. Scouring and 
 Cleaning Bed and Window Curtains, Carpets, Rugs, etc., 
 French and English Cleaning, any Color or Fabric of 
 Silk, Satin, or Damask. By Thomas Love, a working 
 
 Dyer aud Scourer. In one volume, 12mo $3.00 
 
 9 
 
PRACTICAL AK'D SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 
 
 O'Neill. Chemistry of Calico Printing, Dye- 
 ing, and Bleacliing ; 
 
 Including Silken, Woolen, and Mixed Goods ; Practical 
 and Theoretical. By Charles O'Neill. (In press.) 
 
 O'Neill. A Dictionary of Calico Printing and 
 Dyeing. 
 
 By Charles O'Neill. (In press.) 
 
 Scott. Tlie Practical Cotton-spinner and Man- 
 ufacturer ; 
 
 Or, The Manager and Overlooker's Companion. This 
 work contains a Comprehensive System of Calculations 
 for Mill Gearing and Machinery, from the first Moving 
 Power, through the different processes of Carding, Draw- 
 ing, Slabbing, Roving, Spinning, and Weaving, adapted 
 to American Machinery, Practice and Usages. Compen- 
 dious Tables of Yarns and Reeds are added. Illustrated 
 by large Working-Drawings of the most approved Anieri- 
 cau Cotton Machinery. Complete in one volume, oc- 
 tavo $3.50 
 
 This edition of Scott's Cotton-Spinner, by Oliver Byrne, is designed 
 for the American Operative. It will be found intensely practical, and 
 will be of the greatest possible value to the Manager, Overseer, and 
 Workman. • 
 
 Sellers. The Color-mixer. 
 
 By John Sellers, an Experienced Practical Workman. 
 To which is added a Catechism op Chemistry. In one 
 volume, 12mo. (In press.) 
 
 • 
 
 Smith. The Dyer's Instructor; 
 
 Comprising Practical Instructions in the Art of Dyeing 
 Silk, Cotton, Wool and Worsted, and Woolen Goods, as 
 Single and Two-colored Damasks, Moreens, Camlets, 
 Lastings, Sliot Cobourgs, Silk Striped Orleans, Plain Oi*- 
 leans, from White and Colored Warps, Merinos, Woolens, 
 Yarns, etc; containing nearly eight hundred Receipts. 
 To which is added a Treatise on the Art of Padding, and 
 the Printing of Silk Warps, Skeins and Handkerchiefs, 
 and the various Mordants and Colors for the diflferent 
 10 
 
PUBLISHED BY HENKY CAREY BAIRD. 
 
 styles of such work. By David Smith, Pattern Dyer. 
 A new edition, in one volume, 12mo $3.00 
 
 CONTENTS.— Wool Dyeing, 60 receipts— Cotton Dyeing, 68 re- 
 ceipts — Silk Dyeing, 60 receipts — Woolen Yarn Dyeing, 69 receipts — 
 Worsted Yarn Dyeing, 51 receipts — Woolen Dyeing, 52 receipts — Da- 
 mask Dyeing, 40 receipts — Moreen Dyeing, 33 receipts — Two-Colored 
 Damask Dyeing, 21 receipts— Camlet Dyeing, 23 receipts — Lasting Dye- 
 ing, 23 receipts — Shot Cobourg Dyeing, 18 receipts— Silk Striped Or- 
 leans, from Black, White, and Colored Warps, 23 receipts — Colored 
 Orleans, from Black Warps, 15 receipts — Colored Orleans and Co- 
 bourgs, from White Warps, 27 receipts — Colored Merinos, 41 receipts 
 — Woolen Shawl Dyeing, 15 receipts — Padding, 42 receipts — Silk Warp, 
 Skein, and Handkerchief Printing, 62 receipts — Nature and Use of Dye- 
 wares, including Alum, Annotta, Archil, Ammonia, Argol, Super 
 Argol, Camwood, Catechu,. Cochineal, Chrome, or Bichromate of Pot- 
 ash, Cudbear, Chemic, or Sulphate of Indigo, French Berry, or Persian 
 Berry, Fustic or Young Fustic, Galls, Indigo, Kermes or Lac Dye, 
 Logwood, Madder, Nitric Acid or Aqua Fortis, Nitrates, Oxalic Tin, 
 Peachwood, Prussiate of Potash, Quercitron Bark, Safflower, Saun- 
 ders or Red Sandal, Sapan Wood, Sumach, Turmeric, Examination of 
 Water by Tests, etc., etc. 
 
 Toustain. A Practical Treatise on tlie Woolen 
 Manufacture. 
 
 From the Fi*ench of M. Toustain. (/n press.) 
 
 Ulricli. Dussauce. A Complete Treatise 
 
 On the Aet of Dyeing Cotton and Wool, as practised in 
 Paris, Rouen, Mulhouse and Germany. From the French 
 of M. Louis Ulrich, a Practical Dyer in the principal 
 Manufactories of Paris, Rouen, Mulhouse, etc., etc. ; to 
 which are added the most important Receipts for Dyeing 
 Wool, as practised in the Manufacture Imperiale des 
 Gobelins, Paris. By Professor H. Dussauce. 12mo..$3.00 
 
 CONTE3NTS.- 
 
 Rouen Dyes, 106 Receipts. 
 
 Alsace " 235 " 
 
 German " 109 " 
 
 Mulhouse " 72 " 
 
 Parisian '• 56 " 
 
 Gobelins » 100 » 
 In all nearly 700 Receipts. 
 
 Easton. A Practical Treatise on Street or 
 Horse-power Railways; 
 
 Their Location, Construction and Management ; with 
 general Plans and Rules for their Organization and Ope- 
 ration ; together with Examinations as to their Compara- 
 
 11 
 
PBACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 
 
 tive Advantages over the Omnibus System, and Inquiries 
 as to their Value for Investment ; including Copies of 
 Municipal Ordinances relating thereto. By Alexander 
 Easton, C. E. Illustrated by twenty-three plates, 8vo., 
 cloth $2.00 
 
 Examinations of Drugs, Medicines, Ciiemicals, 
 etc., 
 
 As to their Purity and Adulterations. By C. H. Peirce, 
 M. D. 12mo., cloth $2.00 
 
 Fislier's Photogenic Manipulation. 
 
 16mo., cloth 62 
 
 Gas and Ventilation; 
 
 A Practical Treatise on Gas and Ventilation. By E. E. 
 Perkins. 12mo., cloth 75 
 
 Gilbart. A Practical Treatise on Banking. 
 
 By James William Gilbart, F. R. S. A new enlarged and 
 improved edition. Edited by J. Smith Romans, editor 
 of " Banker's Magazine." To which is added '* Money," 
 by H. C. Carey. 8vo $3.00 
 
 Gregory's Mathematics for Practical Men; 
 
 Adapted to the Pursuits of Surveyors, Architects, Me- 
 chanics and Civil Engineers. 8vo., plates, cloth. ..$1.50 
 
 Hardwich. A Manual of Photographic Chem- 
 istry ; 
 
 Including the practice of the Collodion Process. By J. 
 F. Hardwich. (^In press.) 
 
 Hav. The Interior Decorator; 
 
 « 
 The Laws of Harmonious' Coloring adapted to Interior 
 Decorations ; with a Practical Treatise on House Paint- 
 ing. By D. R. Hay, House Painter and Decorator. Il- 
 lustrated by a Diagram of the Primary, Secondary and 
 Tertiary Colors. 12mo. {In press.) 
 12 
 
PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 
 
 Inveiitor's Guide— Patent Office and Patent 
 Laws : 
 
 Or, a Guide to Inventors, and a Book of Reference for 
 Judges, Lawyers, Magistrates, and others. By J. Gr. 
 Moore. 12mo., cloth $1.00 
 
 Jenis. Railway Property. A Treatise 
 
 On the jCoxsTRucTrox and Management of Railways ; de- 
 signed to afford useful knowledge, in the popular style, 
 to the holders of this class of property ; as well as Rail- 
 way Managers, Officers and Agents. By John B. Jervis, 
 late Chief Engineer of the Hudson River Railroad, Cro- 
 ton Aqueduct, etc. One volume, 12nio., cloth $1.50 
 
 CONTENTS. — Preface — Introduction. Construction. — Introduc- 
 tory—Land and Land Damages— Location of Line— Method of Business 
 —Grading— Bridges and Culverts— Road Crossings— Ballasting Track- 
 Cross Sleepers— Chairs and Spikes— Rails— Station Buildings— Loco- 
 motives, Coaches and Cars. Operating. — Introductory — Freight— Pas- 
 sengers-Engine Drivers— Repairs to Track— Repairs of Machinery- 
 Civil Engineer — Superintendent— Supplies of Material— Receipts— Dis- 
 bursements — Statistics — Running Trains — Competition — Financial 
 Management— General Remarks. 
 
 Johnson, The Coal Trade of British America; 
 
 With Researches on the Characters and Practical Values 
 
 of American and Foreign Coals. By Walter R. Johnson, 
 
 Civil and Mining Engineer and Chemist. 8vo $2.00 
 
 This volume contains the results of the experiments made for the 
 Navy Department, upon which their Coal contracts are now based. 
 
 Johnston. Instrnctions for the Analysis of 
 Soils, Limestones and Manures. 
 
 By J. F. W. Johnston. 12mo 38 
 
 Larkin. The Practical Brass and Iron Found- 
 er's Guide; 
 
 A Concise Treatise on the Art of Brass Founding, Mould- 
 ing, etc. By James Larkin. 12mo., cloth $1.00 
 
 Leslie's (Miss) Complete Cookery; 
 
 Directions for Cookery in its Various Branches. By Miss ' 
 Leslie. 58th thousand. Thoroughly revised ; with the 
 addition of New Receipts. In one volume, 12mo., half 
 
 bound, or in sheep $1.00 
 
 13 
 
PBACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 
 
 Leslie's (Miss) Ladies' House Book; 
 
 A Manual of Domestic Economy. 20th revised edition. 
 12mo., sheep ...$1.00 
 
 Leslie's (Miss) Two Hundred Receipts in 
 ^ French Cookery, 
 
 Cloth, 12mo 25 
 
 Lieber. Assayer's Guide; 
 
 Or, Practical Directions to Assayers, Miners and Smelters, 
 for the Tests and Assays, by Heat and by Wet Processes, 
 of the Ores of all the principal Metals, and of Gold and 
 Silver Coins and Alloys. By Oscar M. Lieber, late Geolo- 
 gist to the State of Mississippi. 12mo. With illustra- 
 tions 75 
 
 "Among the indispensable works for this purpose, is this little 
 guide." — Artizan. 
 
 Lowig. Principles of Organic and Physiologi- 
 cal Chemistry. 
 
 By Dr. Carl Lowig, Doctor of Medicine and Philosophy ; 
 Ordinary Professor of Chemistry in the University of 
 Zurich ; Author of *' Chemie des Organischen Verbindun 
 gen." Translated by Daniel Breed, M. D., of the U. S. 
 Patent Office ; late of the Laboratory of Liebig and Low'g. 
 8vo., sheep $3.50 
 
 Marble Worker's Manual; 
 
 Containing Practical Information respecting Marbles in 
 general, their Cutting, Working and Polishing, Veneer- 
 ing, etc., etc. 12mo., cloth $1.00 
 
 Miles. A Plain Treatise on Horse-shoeing. 
 
 With Illustrations. By William Miles, Author of ** The 
 Horse's Foot." , 75 
 
 Morfit. The Arts of Tanning, Currying and 
 Leather Dressing. 
 
 Theoretically and Practically Considered in all their De- 
 tails ; being a Full and Comprehensive Treatise on the 
 14 
 
PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 
 
 Manufacture of tlie Various Kinds of Loatlior. Illus- 
 trated by over two hundred Engravings. Edited from tlie 
 French of De Fonteuelle and Malapeyere. With nu- 
 merous Emendations and Additions, by Campbell Morfit, 
 Practical and Analytical Chemist. Complete in one vol- 
 ume, octavo $10.00 
 
 This important Treatise will be found to cover the whole field in 
 the most masterlj- manner, and it is believed that in no other branch 
 of ap])lied science could more signal service be rendered to American 
 Manufactures. 
 
 The publisher is not aware that in any other work heretofore issued 
 in this country, more space has been devoted to this subject than a 
 single chai)ter ; and in offering this volume to so large and intelligent 
 a class as American Tanners and Leather Dressers, he feels confident 
 of their substantial support and encouragement. 
 
 CONTENTS.— Introduction— Dignity of Labor— Tan and Tannin 
 — Gallic Acid — Extractive-Tanning Materials — Oak Barks — Barking 
 of Trees — Method of Estimating the Tanning Power of Astringent 
 Substances — Tan — The Structure and Composition of Skin — Different 
 Kinds of Skin suitable for Tanning — Preliminary Treatment of Skins % 
 — Tanning Process — Improved Processes — Vauquelin's Process — Ac- 
 celerating Processes — Keasley's, Trumbull's, Hibbard's, and Leprieur's 
 Processes — Tanning with Extract of Oak-Bark — Hemlock Tanning — 
 •With Myrtle Plant— English Harness Leather— Calf Slcins— Goat and 
 Shee]) Skins — Horse Hides— Buck, Wolf and Dog Skins— Buffalo, or 
 "Grecian" Leather — Russia Leather — Red Skins— Wallachia Leather 
 — Mineral Tanning — Texture and Quality of Leather, and the means 
 of Discovering its Defects — Tawing — Hungary Leather— Oiled Leather 
 — Tanning as practised by the Mongol Tartars — Shagreen — Parchment 
 — Leather Bottles — Tanning of Cordage and Sail Cloth— Glazed or 
 " Patent" Leather — Helverson's Process for Rendering Hides Hard 
 and Transparent — Currying— Currying of Calf Skins— Currying of 
 Goat Skins — Red Leather — Fair Leather — Water Proof Dressing — 
 Perkins' Machine for Pommelling and Graining Leather — Splitting, 
 Shaving, Fleshing and Cleansing Machines — Embossing of Leather — 
 Gut Dressing. 
 
 Morfit. A Treatise on Cliemistry 
 
 Applied to the Manufacture of Soap and Candles ; being 
 a Thorough Exposition, in all their Minutiae, of the prin- 
 ciples and Practice of the Trade, based upon the most 
 recent Discoveries in Science and Art. Ey Campbell 
 Morfit. Professor of Analytical and Applied Chemistry in 
 the University of Maryland. A new and improved edi- 
 tion. Illustrated with 260 Engravings on Wood. Com- 
 plete in one volume, large 8vo li^G.OO 
 
 CONTENTS.— CHAPTER L The History of the Art and its Rela- 
 tions to Science — 11. Chemical Combination — III. Alkalies and Alka- 
 line Earths — IV. Alkalimentary — V. Acids — VI. Origin and Composi- 
 tion of Fatty Matters — VIT. Saponiflable Fats— Vegetable FKts— Ani- 
 mal Fats — Waxes — VIII. Action of Heat and Mineral Acids of Fatty 
 Matters — IX. Volatile or Essential Oils, and Resins — X. The Proxi- 
 mate Principles of Fats — Their Comi)Osition and Properties — Basic 
 Constituents of Fats— XI. Theory of Saponification — XII. Utensils 
 Requisite for a Soap Factory — XIII. Preparatory Manipulations in 
 the Procesa of Making Soap— Preparation of the Lyes— XIV. Hard 
 
 15 
 
PRACTICAL AND SCIEITTIFIC BOOKS, 
 
 Soaps— XV. Soft Soaps— XVI. Soaps by the Cold Process— XVII. Sili- 
 cated Soaps— XVIII. Toilet Soaps— XIX. Patent Soaps— XX. Fraud 
 and Adulterations in the Manufacture of Soap— XXI. Candles— XXII. 
 Illumination— XXIII. Philosophy of Flame— XXIV. Raw Material 
 for Candles— Purification and Bleaching of Suet— XX V. Wicks— XX VI. 
 Dipped Candles— XXVII. Moulded Candles— XXVIII. Stearin Candles 
 —XXIX. Stearic Acid Candles—" Star" or " Adamantine" Candles— 
 Saponification by Lime— Saponification by Lime and Sulphurous Acid 
 — Saponification by Sulphuric Acid — Saponification by the combined 
 action of Heat, Pressure and Steam— XXX. Spermaceti Candles— 
 XXXI. Wax Candles— XXXII. Composite Candles— XXXIII. Paraffin 
 —XXXIV. Patent Candles— XXXV. Hydrometers and Thermometers. 
 
 Morlimer. Pyroteclmist's Companion; 
 
 Or, a Familiar System of Fire-works. By G. W. Morti- 
 mer, Illustrated by numerous Engravings. 12mo... 75 
 
 Napier. Manual of Electro-Metallurgy; 
 
 p Including the Application of the Art to Manufacturing 
 Processes. By James Napier. From the second London 
 editiola, revised and enlarged. Illustrated by Engrav- 
 ings. In one volume, 12mo §1.50 
 
 Napier's Electro-Metallurgy is generally regarded as the very best 
 Practical Treatise on the Subject in the English Language. 
 
 CONTENTS.— History of the Art of Electro-Metallurgy— Descri])- 
 tion of Galvanic Batteries, and their respective Peculiarities — Elec- 
 trotype Processes — Miscellaneous Applications of the Process of Cost- 
 ing with Copper — Bronzing — Decomposition of Metals upon one 
 another — Electro- Plating — Electro-Gilding — Results of Experiments 
 on the Deposition of other Metals as Coatings, Theoretical Observa- 
 tions, 
 
 Norris's Hand-book for Locomotive Engineers 
 and Machinists; 
 
 Comprising the Calculations for Constructing Locomo- 
 tives, Manner of setting Valves, etc., etc. By Septimus 
 Norris, Civil and Mechanical Engineer. In one volume, 
 12mo., with Illustrations $1.50 
 
 " With pleasure do Ave meet with such a work as Messrs. Norria 
 and Baird have given us." — Artizan. 
 
 "In this work he has given us what are called 'the secrets of the 
 business,' in the rules to construct locomotives, in order that the mil- 
 lion should be learned in all things," — Scientific American. 
 
 Nystrom. A Treatise on Screw-Propellers and 
 their Steam-Engines ; 
 
 With Practical Rules and Examples by which to Calcu- 
 late and Construct the same for any description of Ves- 
 sels. By J. W, Nystrom. Illustrated by over thirty 
 large Workiug Drawings. In one volume, octavo. ..$3. 50 
 1(> 
 
PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD. 
 
 Overman. The Manufaclure of Iron in all its 
 Various Branches ; 
 
 To which is added an Essay on the Manufacture of Steel. 
 By Frederick Overman, Mining Engineer. With one 
 hundred and fifty Wood Engravings. Third edition. In 
 one volume, octavo, five hundred pages $G.OO 
 
 " We have now to announce the appearance of another valuable 
 work on the subject, which, in our humble opinion, supplies any defi- 
 ciency which late improvements and discoveries may have caused, 
 from the lapse of time since the date of ' Mushet' and ' Schrivenor,' 
 It is the production of one of our Trans-Atlantic brethren, Mr. Fred- 
 erick Overman, Mining Engineer ; and we do not hesitate to set it 
 down as a work of great importance to all connected with the iron in- 
 terests ; one which, while it is sufficiently technological fully to ex- 
 plain chemical analysis, and the various phenomena of iron under 
 ditferent circumstances, to the satisfaction of the most fastidious, is 
 written in that clear and comprehensive style as to be available to the 
 capacity of the humblest mind, and consequently will be of much ad- », 
 vantage to those works where the proprietors may see the desirability 
 of placing it in the iiands of their operatives." — London Mining 
 Journal. 
 
 Painter, Gilder and Varnisher's Companion; 
 
 Containing Rules and Regulations in everything relating 
 to the Arts of Painting, Gilding, Varnishing and Glass 
 Staining ; with numerous useful and valuable Receipts ; 
 Tests for the detection of Adulterations in Oils and 
 Colors ; and a statement of the Diseases and Accidents to 
 which Painters, Gilders and Varnishers are particularly 
 liable, with the simplest methods of Prevention and 
 Remedj^. Eighth edition. To which are added Complete 
 Instructions in Graining, Marbling, Sign Writing, and 
 Gilding on Glass. 12mo., cloth 75 
 
 Paper-Hanger's (Tlie) Companion; 
 
 In which the Practical Operations of the Trade are sys- 
 tematically laid down ; with copious Directions Prepara- 
 tory to Papering ; Preventions against the effect of Damp 
 in Walls ; the various Cements and Pastes adapted to 
 the several purposes of the Trade ; Observations and Di- 
 rections for the Panelling and Ornamenting of Rooms, 
 etc., etc. By James Arrowsmith. In one volume, 
 12mo 75 
 
 Practical (The) Surveyor's Guide; 
 
 Containing the necessary information to make any per- 
 son of common capacity a finished Land Surveyor, with- 
 
 *17 
 
PBACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 
 
 out tlie aid of a Teacher. By Andrew Duncan, Land 
 Surveyor and Civil Engineer. 12mo 75 
 
 Having had an experience as a Practical Surveyor, etc., of thirty 
 years, it is believed that the author of this volume possesses a thorough 
 knowledge of the wants of the profession ; and never having met with 
 any work sufficiently concise and instructive in the several details 
 necessary for the proper qualification of the Surveyor, it has been his 
 object to supply that want. Among other important matters in the 
 book, will be found the following: 
 
 Instructions in levelling and profiling, with a new and speedy plan 
 of setting grades on rail and plank roads — the method of inflecting 
 curves — the description and design of a new instrument, whereby dis- 
 tances are found at once, without any calculation — a new method of 
 surveying any tract of land by measuring one line through it — a geo- 
 metrical method of correcting surveys taken with the compass, to fit 
 them for calculation — a short method of finding the angles from the 
 courses, and vice versa — the method of survej'ing with the compass 
 through any mine or iron works, and to correct the deflections of the 
 needle by attraction — description of an instrument by the help of 
 which any one may measure a map by inspection, without calculation 
 — a new and short method of calculation, wherein fewer figures are 
 used — the method of correcting the diurnal variation of the needle 
 — various methods of plotting and embellishing maps — the most cor- 
 rect method of laying off plots with the pole, etc.— description of a 
 new compass contrived by the author, etc., etc. 
 
 Railroad Engineer's Pocket Companion for the 
 Field. 
 
 By W. Griswold. 12mo., tucks $1.00 
 
 Riddeil. The Elements of Handfiaiiing; 
 
 Being the most Complete and Original Exposition of this 
 Branch of Carpentry that has appeared. By Robert 
 Riddeil. Third edition. Enlarged and improved. Il- 
 lustrated by 22 large plates. 4to., cloth $3.00 
 
 Rural Clieffiistry; 
 
 An Elementary Introduction to the Study of the Science, 
 in its relation to Agriculture and the Arts of Life. By 
 Edward Solly, Professor of Chemistry in the Horticul- 
 tural Society of London. From the third improved Lon- 
 don edition. 12mo $1.25 
 
 . Slmnk. A Practical Treatise 
 
 Ok Railway Curves, and Location for Young Ekgineers. 
 By Wm. F. Shunk, Civil Engineer. I'^mo $1.0(1 
 
 Strength and Other Properties of Metals; 
 
 Reports of Experiments on the Stnuigth and other Pro- 
 
 18 
 
PUBLISHED BY HENKY CAREY BAIRD. 
 
 perties of Metals for Cannon. With a Description of the 
 Machines for Testing Metals, and of the Classification of 
 Cannon in service. By Officers of the Ordnance Depart- 
 ment U. S. Army. Bj authority of the Secretary of 
 War. Illustrated by 25 large steel plates. In one vol- 
 ume, quarto $10.00 
 
 * The best Treatise on Cast-iron extant. 
 
 Tables Showing the Weight 
 
 Of Rounp, Square and Flat Bar Iron, Steel, etc., by 
 Measurement. Cloth 50 
 
 Taylor. Statistics of Coal; 
 
 Including Mineral Bituminous Substances employed in 
 Arts and Manufactures ; with their Geographical, Geo- 
 logical and Commercial Distribution, and Amount of Pro- 
 duction and Consumption on the American Continent. 
 With Incidental Statistics of the Iron Manufacture. By 
 R. C. Taylor. Second edition, revised by S. S. Halde- . 
 man. Illustrated by five Maps and many Wood Engrav- 
 ings. 8vo., cloth $6.00 
 
 Teiiipleton. The Practical Examiiiator on 
 Steam and the Steam Engine ; 
 
 With Instructive References relative thereto, arranged 
 for the use of Engineers, Students, and others. By Wm. 
 Templeton, Engineer. 12mo 75 
 
 This work was originally written for the author's private use. He 
 was prevailed upon by various Engineers, who had seen the notes, to 
 consent to its publication, from their eager expression of belief that 
 it would be equally useful to them as it had been to himself. 
 
 Tin and Sheet Iron Workers Instructor ; 
 
 Comprising complete Descriptions of the necessary Pat- 
 terns and Machinery, and the Processes of Calculating 
 Dimensions, Cutting, Joining. Raising, Soldering, etc., 
 etc. With numerous Illustrations. {In press,} 
 
 Treatise (A) on a Box of Instruments, 
 
 And the Slide Rule ; with the Theory of Trigonometry 
 and Logarithms, including Practical Geometry, Survey '^ 
 ing, Measuring of Timber, Cask and Malt Gauging, 
 
 19 
 
PRACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 
 
 Heights and Distances. By Thomas Kentish. In one 
 
 volume, 12mo $1\00 
 
 A volume of inestimable value to Engineers, Gaugers, Students, and 
 others. 
 
 Turn bull. The Electro-Magnetic Telegraph; 
 
 With an Historical Account of its Rise, Progress, and 
 Present Condition. Also, Practical Suggestions in regard 
 to Insulation and Protection from the Eflfects of Light- 
 ning. Together with an Appendix containing several 
 important Telegraphic Devices and Laws. By Lawrence 
 TurnbuU, M. D., Lecturer on Technical Chemistry at the 
 Franklin Institute. Second edition. Revised and im- 
 proved. Illustrated by numerous Engravings. 8vo..$2.00 
 
 Tiiriier^s (The) Coiiipaiiioii ; 
 
 Containing Instruction in Concentric, Elliptic and Eccen- 
 tric Turning ; also various Steel Plates of Chucks, Tools 
 and Instruments ; and Directions for Using the Eccentric 
 Cutter, Drill, Vertical Cutter and Rest ; with Patterns 
 and Instructions for working them. l;^mo., cloth 75 
 
 Bell. Carpentry Made Easy; 
 
 Or. The Science and Art of Framing, on a New and Im- 
 proved System ; with Specific Instructions for Building 
 Balloon Frames,' Barn Frames, Mill Frames, Warehouses, 
 Church Spires, etc. ; comprising also a System of Bridge 
 Building ; with Bills, Estimates of Cost, and Valuable 
 Tables. Illustrated by 38 plates, comprising nearly 200 
 figures. By William , E. Bell, Architect and Practical 
 Builder. Svo $3.G0 
 
 SOCIAL SCIENCE. 
 
 THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY. 
 
 " I challenge the production from among the writers on political 
 economy of a more learned, ])hilosophical, and convincing speculator 
 on that theme, than rtiy distinguished fellow-citizen, Henry C. Carey, 
 riie works he has published in support of the protective policy, are 
 remarkable for profound research, extensive range of inquiry, rare 
 logical acumen, and a consummate knowledge of history.*' — Speech of 
 Hon. Edward Joy Morris, in the House of Rej)resentatives of the United 
 States, February 2, 1869. 
 20 
 
PUBLISHED BY HENKY CABEY BAIKD. 
 
 THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY. 
 
 " Henry C. Carey, the best known and ablest economist of North 
 America. ***** jn Europe he is i)rincij)ally known by his 
 striking and original attacks, based upon the peculiar advantages of 
 American experience, on some of the principal doctrines, especially 
 Malthus' ' Theory of Population' and Ricardo's teachings. His views 
 have been largely adopted and thoroughly discussed in Europe." — 
 " The German Political Lexicon,^' Edited by Bluntschli and Brater. Leipsic, 
 1868. 
 
 *' We believe that your labors mark an era in the science of political 
 economy. To your researches and lucid arguments are we indebted 
 for the explosion of the absurdities of Malthus, Say, and Ricardo, ih 
 regard to the inability of the earth to meet the demands of a growing 
 population. American industry owes you a debt which cannot be re- 
 paid, and which it will ever be proud to acknowledge. — From a Letter 
 of Hon. George W. Scranton, M. C, Hon. William Jessup, and over sixty 
 injluential citizens of Luzerne County^ Pennsylvania^ to Henry C. Carey, 
 April 3, 1869. 
 
 Financial Crises; 
 
 Their Causes and Effects. 8vo., paper 25 
 
 French and American Tariffs, 
 
 Compared in a Series of Letters addressed to Mons. M. 
 Chevalier. 8vo., paper 15 
 
 Harmony (The) of Interests; 
 
 Agricultural, Manufacturing and Commercial. 8vo., 
 
 paper .'.... 75 
 
 Cloth $1.25 
 
 " We can safely recommend this remarkable work to all Avho wish 
 to investigate the causes of the progress or decline of industrial com- 
 munities." — Blackwood's Magazine. 
 
 Letters to the President of the United States. 
 
 8vo., Paper...; 50 
 
 Miscellaneous Works; 
 
 Comprising ''Harmony of Interests," "Money," ''Let- 
 ters to the President," "French and American Tariffs," 
 and " Financial Crises." One volume, 8vo., half bound. 
 
 $2.25 
 
 Money; A Lecture 
 
 Before the New York Geographical and Statistical So- 
 ciety. 8vo., paper 15 
 
 21 
 
PRACTICAIi AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 
 
 THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY. 
 
 Past (The), the Present, and the Future. 
 
 8vo 82.00 
 
 12mo $1.25 
 
 •' Full of important facts bearing on topics that are now agitating 
 all Europe. * * * These quotations will only whet the appetite 
 of the scientific reader to devour the whole work. It is a book full of 
 valuable information." — Economist. 
 
 *' Decidedly a book to be read by all who take an interest in the pro- 
 gress of social science." — Spectator. 
 
 "A Southern man myself, never given to tariff doctrines, I confess to 
 have been convinced by his reasoning, and, thank Heaven, have not 
 now to learn the difTerence between dogged obstinacy and consistency. 
 ' Ye gods, give us but light !' should be the motto of every inquirer 
 after truth, but for far ditferent and better purposes than that which 
 prompted the exclamation." — The late John S. Skinner. 
 
 " A volume of extensive information, deep thought, high intelli- 
 gence, and moreover of material utility."— London Morning Advertiser. 
 
 " Emanating from an active intellect, remarkable for distinct views 
 and sincere convictions." — Britannia.' 
 
 ♦' ' The Past, Present, and Future,' is a vast summary of progressive 
 philosophy, Avherein he demonstrates the benefit of political economy 
 in the onward progress of mankind, which, ruled and directed by over- 
 whelming influences of an exterior nature, advances little by little, 
 until these exterior influences are rendered subservient in their turn, 
 to increase as much as possible the extent of their wealth and riches." 
 — Dictionnaire Universel des Contemporains. Far G, Vapereau. Paris^ 
 1858. 
 
 Principles of Social Science. 
 
 Three volumes, 8vo., clotli $7.50 
 
 CONTENTS.— Volume I. Of Science and its Methods— Of Man, 
 the Subject of Social Science — Of Increase in the Numbers of Mankind 
 —Of the Occupation of the Earth- Of Value— Of Wealth— Of the For- 
 mation of Society — Of Appropriation — Of Changes of Matter in Place 
 — Of M hanical and Chemical Changes in the Forms of Matter. Vol- 
 ume II. Of Vital Changes in the Form of Matter — Of the Instrument 
 of Assoc.ation. Volume III. Of Production and Consumption — Of 
 Accumulation — Of Circulation — Of Distribution — Of Concentration 
 and Centralization — Of Competition — Of Population — Of Food and 
 Population— Of Colonization — Of the Malthusian Theory — Of Com- 
 merce — Of the Societary Organization — Of Social Science. 
 
 " I have no desire here to reproach Mr. Malthus with the extreme 
 lightness of his scientific baggage. In his day, biology, animal and 
 vegetable chemistry, the relations of the various portions of the hu- 
 man organism, etc. etc., had made but little progress, and it is to the 
 general ignorance in reference to these questions that we must, as I 
 think, look for explanation of the fact that he should, with so much 
 confidence, in reference to so very grave a subject, have ventured to 
 suggest a formula so arbitrary in its character, and one whose hollow- 
 ness becomes now so clearly manifest. Mr. Carey's advantage over 
 him, both as to facts and logic, is certainly due in great part to the 
 progress that has since been made in all the sciences connected with 
 life ; but then, how admirably has he profited of them ! How entirely 
 is he au courant of all these branches of knowledge which, whether 
 22 
 
PUBLISHED BY HENRY CARE^ BAIRD. 
 
 THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY. 
 
 directly or indirectly, bear upon his subject ! With what skill docs he 
 ask of each and every of them all that it can be made to furnish, 
 whether of facts or arguments ! With what elevated views, and 
 what amplitude of means, does he go forward in his work ! Above 
 all, how thorough in his scientific caution ! Accumulating inductions, 
 and presenting for consideration facts the most undoubted and i)roba- 
 bilities of the highest kind, he yet affirms nothing, contenting himself 
 with showing that his opponent had no good reason for alfirming the 
 nature of the progression, nor the time of duplication, nor the gene- 
 ralization which takes the facts of an individual case and deduces 
 from them a law for every race, every climate, every civilization, 
 every condition, moral or physical, permanent and transient, 
 healthy or unhealthy, of the various poi)ulations of the many coun- 
 tries of the world. Then, having reduced the theory to the level of a 
 mere hypothesis, he crushes it to atoms under the weiglit of facts." — 
 M. De Fontenay in the '■'■Journal des EcoTKjmistes.'" Paris, September, 1862. 
 
 " This book is so abundantly full of notices, facts, comparisons, cal- 
 culations, and arguments, that too much would be lost .by laying a 
 part of it before the eye of the reader. The work is vast and severe 
 in its conception and aim, and is far removed from the common ruq 
 of the books on similar subjects." — 11 Mondo Letterario, Turin. 
 
 " In political economy, America is represented by one of the 
 strongest and most original writers of the age, Henry C. Carey, of 
 Philadelphia. ************ 
 
 " His theory of Rents is regarded as a complete demonstration that 
 the popular views derived from Ricardo are erroneous ; and on the 
 subject of Protection, he is generally confessed to be the master- 
 thinker of his country." — Westminster Review. 
 
 " Both in America and on the Continent, Mr. Henry Carey has ac- 
 quired a great name as a political economist. * * » ♦ * 
 
 " His refutation of Malthus and Ricardo we consider most triumph- 
 ant." — London Critic. 
 
 " Mr. Carey began his publication of Principles twenty years ago ; 
 he is certainly a mature and deliberate writer. More than this, he is 
 readable : his pages swarm with illustrative facts and with American 
 instances. **»#**«**«»* 
 
 " We are in great charity with books which, like Mr. Carey's, theo- 
 rize with excessive boldness, when the author, as does Mr. Carey, 
 possesses information and reasoning power." — London Athenccum. 
 
 " Those who would fight against the insatiate greed and unscrupu- 
 lous misrepresentations of the Manchester school, which we have fre- 
 quently exposed, without any of their organs having ever dared to 
 make reply, will find in this and Mr. Carey's other works an immense 
 store of arms and ammunition. ******** 
 
 •' An author who has, among the political economists of Germany 
 and France, numerous readers, is worth attentive perusal in Eng- 
 land." — London Statesman. 
 
 " Of all the varied answers to the old cry of human nature, ' Who 
 will show vxs any good?' none are more sententious than Mr. Carey's. 
 He says to Kings, Presidents, and People, ' Keep the nation at work, 
 and the greater the variety of employments the better.' He is seek- 
 ing and elucidating the great radical laws of matter as regards man. 
 He is at once the aj)ostle and evangelist of temporal righteousness." 
 — National Intelligencer. 
 
 " A work which we believe to be the greatest ever written by an 
 
 American, and one which will in future ages be pointed out as the 
 most successful effort of its time to form the great scientia scientiarwn.'^ 
 '—Philadelphia Evening Bulletin. 
 
 23 
 
PBACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC BOOKS, 
 THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY. 
 
 Tlie Slave Trade, Domestic and Foreign; 
 
 Why it Exists, and How it maybe Extinguished. 12mo., 
 cloth $1.25 
 
 CONTENTS.— The Wide Extent of Slavery— Of Slavery in the 
 British Colonies — Of Slavery in the United States — Of Emancipation 
 in the British Colonies — How Man passes from Poverty and Slavery 
 toward Wealth and Freedom — How Wealth tends to Increase — How 
 Labor acquires Value and Man becomes Free — How Man passes from 
 Wealth and Freedom toward Poverty and Slavery — How Slavery 
 grew, and How it is now maintained in the West Indies — How Slavery 
 ^rew, and is maintained in the United States — How Slavery grows in 
 Portugal and Turkey — How Slavery grows in India — How Slavery 
 grows in Ireland and Scotland — How Slavery grows in England — 
 How can Slavery be extinguished] — How Freedom grows in Northern 
 Germany — How Freedom grows in Russia — How Freedom grows in 
 Denmark — How Freedom grows in Spain and Belgium — Of the Duty 
 of the People of the United States— Of the Duty of the People of Eng- 
 land. 
 
 " As a philosophical writer, Mr. Carey is remarkable for the union 
 of comprehensive generalizations with a copious induction of facts. 
 His research of principles never leads him to the neglect of details ; 
 jior is his accumulation of instances ever at the expense of universal 
 truth. He is, doubtless, intent on the investigation of laws, as the 
 appropriate aim of science, but no passion for theory seduces him 
 into the region of pure speculation. His mind is no less historical 
 than philosophical, and had he not chosen the severer branch in 
 which his studies have borne such excellent fruit, he would have 
 attained an eminent rank among the historians from whom the litera- 
 ture of our country has received such signal illustration." — New York 
 Tribune. 
 
 French PoliticO'Economic Controversy, 
 
 Between the Supporters of the Doctrines of Caret and 
 of those of RiCARDO and Malthds. By MM. De Fontenay, 
 Dupuit, Baudrillart, and others. Translated from the 
 "Journal des Economistes," 1862-63. {In press.) 
 
 Protection of Home Labor and Home Produc- 
 tions 
 
 Necessary to the Prosperity of the American Farmer. 
 By H. C. Baird. Paper 13 
 
 Smith. A Manual of Political Economy. 
 
 By E. Peshine Smith. 12mo., cloth $1.25 
 
 24 
 
•