LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, r;7 aielf-.v.B-lS" UNITED STATES OF AMKKICA. / iSnS I HAVE MET".jr|^ jEEN PEOPitisss® Things I f^zr^^^ ^-.Ci^@^5^^ 'i ^;JS..i*^ -— -^ .J?- ^.^"^ fc> fS4 a JNOkvHiA ivaiNaj v a sn '¥*>J !«V ->^«..: -»3 ^1! ' y J g i 3 D S / I J t) J/ Wa\. S. Kia\ball c^ Cc FRflGRflNT UH.NITY FAIR, aii& Superlntluc Glonrcttce. KIMBALL'S Straight Cut Cigarettes. Mew ©SBURN Mouse, ^^^Mif^^?^^^ Rt )ci n-:wriiR. N. V. iiSlillPl^i appointments, has recently been enla by the addition of seventy beautiful rooms, single and en suite, and has been thoroughly repainted, refitted, and refurnished, making it the most com- plete hotel' in the city. Rates $2,00 and $2.50 per day. Free Bus, ELMER E. ALMY. Ooo handsomely furnished ruoms ai Si.oo per day 1 aod tipwHrds. European Plan. t First-class Resiaiiranl, Dining Rooms, Cafe andl Lunch Counter. -» la tarU, al moderate prices. Guests' Baggage to and from Grand Centkai Rooms where ladies and gentlemen may check valises, coats, parcels, etc., without charge. Travelers arriving via Grand Central Depot save Carriage-hire and Baggage Express by stopping at ihc Grand Union. Travelers can live well at the Grand Unio^ for less money than at any other first-class hotel in [ <\^ 1 J ii Q o CQ 5 Z a < Ii m ® o s ' i b Q < .a 1 T-HEiQUEENSlHOTEL, TORONTO. ELECTRIC BELLS, EI.E\-.\ 1 1 -1;- l,\lll O-OVEKN-OR-O-ENERAIL. I Tl McGAW & WINNETT, - Proprietors. Famous for One-Third of a Century. Tl^^Sf.bAWi'enq^llAil, IP '1^ I John MrKrar & Go.-s heKry hogan. S. CARSLEY, N TRE Dane S reft m n ESTABLISH VU NT I \\LN + I;k\ + CtOODS, III) 1113 Ue Ami St CohSI PiltiSI MOMTREAL |S'g!E^!>. ■■i-iillliiyj JTTRACTIONS OF THE GRAND CENTRAL HOTK. THE S.^FE^^T HOTEL IN AMEBIC/ FAYMAN 4 SPRAGUE, Proprietor nm ^TE? IIOTEL. BOSTON. 0^ TILiy HJVNtS, Uiiled SlllDS Hllel, BOSTON, Hiss. B0ST0[4. UNEXCEPTIONABLE TABLE. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. an Plan, 33.00 per Day and upwnrdl only, 1.00 REFITTED AND GREATLY IIVIPROV£i HENRY B. RICE & CO., Prop'l TRAVELERS I)()»ii t he ,St. Laurciu-c and all over the Earth, Arc I.iabli; to Crintract some Kidin.7 DisordiT. TAtr^ should aititiiys tarry :vii!, tktm tJltCrtatl^ #^^*' #^^ Sys/cin Rfgii/tilfli, BLOOD TONIC AND IH'RIFIKR. A World Famed Specific. TRAVELERS Down the St. Lawrence and all over the Earth, Are Liable to Contract some Kidney Disorder. They should alivays carry with ^ ^ them the Great IM^ ^\\vV % System Reo-itlator^ BLOOD TONIC AND PURIFIER. A Wore Famec Specific. :^__.. ^— -•■1 ■ TME 44 PhAT DOY'S 55 15 Y^^T'^ ^^" the St. Lawrence. the reof^le met .^nd the xhixCtS seen. f\ i- Qalde +' for * 7oiJrist5 ^ a^d * Jrayq\(^rs. SEVENTH EDITION. COPYRIGHTED, .18SS. / E. F. BA8BAGE, Publisher. ROCHESTER, N. V. : DEMOCRAT AND CHRONICLK PRINT, 47 & 40 EAST .MAIN STKEET. 1888. ^Z(o ^z-^>-Ml INTRODUCTION. IN presenting this work, " The Phat Boy's Fifteen Years on the St. Lawrence River," I am aware that financial or personal ends are always the para- mount object to be attained by an individual who puts forth anything^ in this world. I therefore plead guilty to the above charge, and for so doing propose to give to the tourist or traveler down this grandest of trips, a faithful description of every point of interest that meets the eye of the beholder. The people I have met and the things I have seen is an outgrowth of the seven editions that have been issued by me and cheerfully received by the public. It is the only correct guide for the tourist or traveler down this majestic stream as it is compiled from the thousand and one questions answered, that was asked me by parties who passed down the trip during my ten years of service as " Guide to the St. Lawrence." It is but honesty and good faith to state what prompted this issue. I feel capable of compiling a book which, although it does not contain any pictorial illustrations of the scenic beauty connected with the trip, I am confident that a plain, unvarnished description of all the various points of interest would be sufficient. The tourist can thus feast the eye on a thousand pictures that a volume ten times this size could not contain, for no matter how often you open the eyes during the day, they will fall upon some delightful scene, where the God of Nature has smiled upon her, within an hour. Neither have I given a highly colored description of the Rapids ; they have been viewed and described by thousands, and the effect produced is as varied in character as the individual writers differed in temperament and looks. Trusting this volume may meet with as cheerful a greeting by the public as it has always accorded my efforts to please, and if its perusal causes the weary or lonesome traveler one hour of mirth or pleasure, its mission will have been accomplished. Respectfully yours, E. F. BABBAGE, "Phat Boy," Guide to the St. Lawrence. THE "PHAT BOY'S" 15 YEARS ON THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. THE St. Lawrence River, with its Thousand Islands and Rapids, is day by day attracting more and more attention among tourists. There is so much that is grand, weird, sublime and exhilarating in the scenery and balmy atmosphere of the majestic river, as it passes in its onward flow from the lake to the gulf, that we need not for a moment wonder why it is that there is a great annual increase in the number of those intelligent people, who, from East, West and South, repair to its placid waters in summer to recuperate their wasted energies and enjoy that luxuriating season known to every American as "vacation." A vacation on the St. Lawrence means a sojourn at some pretentious or lowly cottage, or at some hotel of either class for a few days, or for one, two or more weeks, as the time, finances and inclination of the indidual may dictate; or it may, as in hundreds of instances it does, only include a voyage of rapid transit from New York to Utica, Clayton, Niagara Falls, Lewiston, Toronto or Kingston to Alexandria Bay or Montreal, then return home. There are several different popular starting places to reach the river ; it is presumed you will take the most conven- ient one, and we will consider ourselves pleased with the selection. HERE IS WHERE YOU BEGIN, dear reader, to peruse an effort of mine which has taken up my leisure moments for the past eight months ; it is not a physical effort, or it would have been larger, but being a literary one is a good reason why it can be held within such a small space as two hundred pages. A physical effort anywhere near my size you would have very little use for. While trav- eling where could you store it away ? No sardine box would hold it. You could not put it into a satchel or trunk nor tuck it away in any little convenient place. But this little volume can be carried most anywhere. I have tried to make it of such a desirable size that it can rest secure in the coat pocket, shawl- strap or in the hand. It is a dose for an adult, not to be shaken before taken, as you are expected to shake until your sides ache before you get through it ; do not be in a hurry ; take it easy, it is more pleasant that way. Do not feel offended if your name is not mentioned among "The People I have met." Think what a large head it would take to contain all I have passed through ; but console yourself that you may be among " The things I have seen." It is a pleasure as well as a duty to state that I am indebted to Mr. George C. Havvley, Stenographer, who so ably assisted me in taking my dictation for this work. ^^ DON'T DO IT." This startling head-line, when it strikes the eye, denotes that there is something to be said of personal benefit to the reader of the article, and we hope to make it pleasant as well as profitable to those who take the time to peruse it. To begin with, we desire to say, don't get fat ; do not allow yourself to develop beyond the line which is laid down for the average man or woman ; because, if you do, the average chair will not fit, the average seat in a rail- road coach will be too small ; you will be obliged to shrink into it, and then take up the seat of another after you get in. The same trouble will occur at amusements, which you enjoy very much, but it so distorts you to occupy the chair that the pleasure is lost ; the average door to a hack is too small, and so is the omnibus, and you are obliged to walk. Here you will enjoy it, especially if it is a little slip- pery, dropping now and then three hundred and thirty pounds, because your friend thinks it does not hurt a fat man to fall. You will get no sympathy from any one ; this I guarantee, because I have tried it. By way of illustration, if I had not eaten any- thing for three days but a yard of pump water, and was to come to a friend and say I was hungry, and had not had anything to eat for three da)?s, he would look me all over, and in reply would say: ''Well, I guess you can stand it until next fall." So the fleshier you are, the less sympathy you get ; and if Dr. Tanner stood it for forty days, you have sufficient fat to last you six months, to say the least. Second, you become, as it were, a curiosity, and all look at you with amazement and wonder what circus or side show you escaped from, or to what dime museum you belong. Third, there isn't anything made for the average man that will fit you, therefore everything must be made to order that 8 you wear, except a necktie, pair of socks or handker- chief. The latter must be seven-eighths of a yard wide in order to hold the perspiration it will mop up in once passing over your manly brow. Fourth, when at the age of 21, and weighing 225 pounds, I had no trouble in making a selection of a partner for life. She climbed the golden stairs about seven years ago, and now I am fair, fat, funny and forty ; would pass in a crowd for thirty-nine, if my daughter was not around. If I find one now who loves a fat man — I am a little too fat — therefore, this world is a very chilly one for me. After you have become a little above the average size, as I have in development, and are conspicuous, everybody will know you ; if they do not, it will be easy for them to find out ; all they are obliged to do is to ask anyone. You will not know only those of your relations and friends very near to you. Then this world will be very lonesome and cold, or your experience will be different from mine. No one will ever ask you to " get in and take a ride," no matter* what the circumstances may be — as they think of forty accidents that might occur, and you are too large a body for the average springs or seat in any vehicle. It would be a treat (were you not sensitive) if you could walk one block and hear the expressions that come from the vulgar throng as they pass. One female, with eyes like two saucers, exclaimed : "Glory be to the father, Mary Ann, phwat's that?" And another says, "Gott in himmel, what a fat man," or a lady of color declare, "Umph ! Umph ! ! Dat am de biggest man I ebber seed." JAMES B. COLGATE. The " Old Bullion," as he is termed on Wall Street, New York, with his family and some friends,: made a trip from New York and Niagara Falls down the St. Lawrence River, spending a couple of days at Niagara, crossing^ the lake, remaining one day at Toronto, embarked in a steamer of the Richelieu Ontario Navigation Company at two o'clock p. m. for Montreal, arriving at Kingston early the next morning. I was added to the passengers' list, and in my capacity as guide to the river, commenced, as soon as we left port, to make the- trip pleasant to every one by giving the points of interest as we passed. After taking from my pocket my tobacco box, I partook of some of its contents and was just placing it back again when a very fine-looking white-haired gentle- man approached me and said : "Sir, do you use tobacco ?" I said, "Yes sir, I do." He said, "VVill you have the kindness to give me a chew ?" I said, "Yes sir, with pleasure, it is always pleasant for me to give any man a chew of tobacco." Presenting him with the box he proceeded to take a quantity sufficient for himself and resumed his seat. In about a minute he returned and said, " Myself and friend left home each provided with what we thought was tobacco enough for the trip, but the amount ran out at Niagara Falls, and we were unable to procure any there such as we were used to chewing, plain tobacco, and we have been without a chew of tobacco since we left Niagara, unable to obtain any at Toronto. Tliis being plain, can we procure some of you?" I said, "Yes, you are welcome to any amount lO you like. I have a pound of W, S. Kimball's plain chewing tobacco, manufactured at Rochester, New York^ a brand which I have been using for the past fifteen years. When he first commenced to manufacture it he cut one pail per day, and now cuts five hundred." I gave him a box full, and I never saw depicted on any mortal's face, resignation, pleasure, joy and satis- faction than on his, for when a man wants a chew of tobacco that has been without it for twenty-four hours and his desire had been unexpectedly gratified, he didn't know how to pay me for the kindness of the accommodation. If he had have paid me in propor- tion for the benefits he derived, or seemed to have derived, it would have taken half his fortune, and he is said to be worth a million. I made the trip pleasant as I could for them until the Indian pilot came on board, when one of the gentlemen approached me and handed me a ten dollar bill as a token of their appreciation for services rendered. I politelv declined accepting it, saying that the steam- boat line and the hotel I had the honor to represent paid me for making the trip a pleasant one, and I therefore could not receive any compensation. Then he said, "You can give it to the Indian pilot," which I did. This little act endeared me more in the estimation of the faithful pilot than ever, and from that time on I could always get him to shake the hand of any passenger who expressed a desire to do so. I have presented as many as ten ladies in a day who requested the honor of taking him by the hnnd. II AUNT AND I. I receive many invitations during the season to accompany parties on their fishing tours and pic-nics among the islands. Refused many last year, but accepted one. The party consisted of ten persons, with their chartered yacht, the Claud S. Leaving the Bay at 8 o'clock, a. m., we were at 9:45 at the point selected for the fishing pleasure and dinner. The gen- tlemen very quietly selected their boats and fisher- men and were quickly off for fish, leaving me to attend to and amuse the ladies. After the captain and engi- neer of the yacht had arranged wraps, mats, folding- chairs and a hammock for each of the party, we roamed the woods during the interim and returned to rest at will. Lying down upon a knoll on a mat, the ladies around me, I recited for their amusement, *' Pat's Dream of Heaven." When in the most pathetic part I felt something creeping up my shin-bone with a determined business-like tread. What could it be? My thoughts were wandering from the subject. In any other position or at any other time I would not care. I became nervous, my manhood was aroused, my feelings must not be trifled with. I determined to make a serious line in the poem funny, so I coula slap my knee and at the same time kill the vermin, I made the effort but it did not work. The blow made me feel as if a bar of pig-iron had been shot through my limbs. The ladies looked at me as if scared, thinking I might have an attack of the J. J.'s, or worse. On my face was a number seven smile, while my brow was knit smoking hot with rage." J could not excuse myself to go and see a man. No I no ! What could 12 I do ? At this moment up jumped Miss Alice. She jumped again and again, turned red in the face, grabbed her skirts tightly with both hands, ran for the woods saying: " Get out ! get out!" It is sup- posed there was just ants enough for two. Dinner was announced and there were two who could do the subject justice, Alice and I. IF YOU GUESS WHAT IT IS YOU MAY HAVE IT. The conumdrum which these head lines indicate came to me in the shape of a short, thick-set old gentleman, who asked of me numerous questions/ all of which were answered cheerfully, but when I attempted to ask him one, he took from his vest pocket the following, which you can peruse, dear reader, and ponder over, and if you can guess who tlie author of it is, you will perform what I was unable to fathom. LETTER OF THE CADI. IMAUM ALI ZADE TO AN ENGl.lSHMAX WHO HAD ENQUIRED CONCERNING THE POPULATION, lU'SINKSS ANP rKEVIOUS HISTORY OF HIS CITY. From Layard^s Ninerat . My Illustrious Friend and Jov of my liver ! The thing you ask is both difficult and useless. Although I have passed all my days in this place, I have neither counted the houses nor have I inquired into the number of the inhabitants ; and as to what one per- son loads on his mules and the other stows away in the bottom of his ship, that is no business of mine. But, above all, as to the previous history of this city, God only knows the amount of dirt and confusion '3 that the infidels may have eaten before the coming of the bword of Islam. It were unprofitable for us to inquire into it. Oh, my soul ! oh, my lamb ! seek not after the things which concern thee not. Thou camest unto us, and we welcomed thee : go in peace. Of a truth, thou hast spoken many words ; and there is no harm done, for the speaker is one and the listener is another. After the fashion of thy people •thou hast wandered from one place to another until thou art happy and content in none. We (praise be to God) were born here and never desire to quit it. Is it possible then that the idea of a general inter- course between mankind should make any impression on our understandings.? God forbid ! Listen, oh my son ! There is no wisdom equal to the belief in God ! He created the world, and shall we liken ourselves unto Him in seeking to penetrate into the mysteries of His creation 7 Sluill we say, behold this star spinneth round that star, and this other star with a tail goeth and cometh in so many years! Let it go I He from whose hand it came will guide and direct it. But thou wilt say unto me, Stand aside, oh man, for I am more learned tha^i thou art, and have seen more things. If thou thinkest that thou art in this respect better than I am, thou art welcome. I praise God that I seek not that I require not. Thou are learned in the things I care not for ; and as for that which thou hast seen, I defile it. Will much knowl- edge create thee a double belly, or wilt thou seek Paradise with thine eyes ? Oh, my friend ! If thou wilt be happy, say. There is no God but God ! Do no evil, and thus wilt thou fear neither man nor death, for surely thine hour will come ! The meek in spirit (El Fakir,) IMAUM ALI ZADE. 14 Messrs. COOK & TOWNSEND, of Roch- ester, N. Y., have, from time to time in the past, made thousands of people pleased with their excursions down the St. Lawrence, but for the past two years have been giving their attention to European excursions, I hope next year to see them bending their energies to again visit the majestic St. Lawrence. MY MEETING WITH DAVID DUDLEY FIELD, OR HOW I EARNED TWENTY-TWO CENTS. Last season Alexandria Bay was honored with a visit from David Dudley Field, the distinguished jurist. Seeing one day he was about to be a passenger on the boat Island Wanderer for a trip among the Islands, I thought I would introduce myself to him, and at the same time make him a present of my book and map, as it would give him the name of every island, cottages and stopping places of the boat on our trip. Approaching him I said : "Mr. Field, I have here a little book which on page 37 commences a description of your trip this afternoon." He took the book out of my hand and upon reading the title, said: "I don't want anything humorous;" and I remarked that it was only humorous where it was not descriptive, and if he didn't care for it I had a picture of the St. Law- rence River. Before I could say any more he had turned the book over and saw. the price of it was twenty-five cents, and he commenced going through almost a contortion of body, and fumbling in his pockets for the twenty-five cents to get rid of me, and 15 I saw that his eftbrts were in vain, for all he could produce was twenty-two cents, and he forced me to take it, notwithstanding the fact that I had said to him that I came there for the purpose of making him a present of my book, also a picture of the St. Lawrence River, which I repeated again. Then he said, "Why didn't you do it then," and my answer was, that "You didn't give me time, and seeing that you have thrust this twenty-two cents upon me, I shall have the pleasure of keeping it until I return home, and then it shall go in my museum of curiosities. When you come and visit me you shall see it." HOW WOMEN FISH. Having read various descriptions of how fishing is carried on by the fair sex at the several watering places, permit us to mention some of them. One writer said : "Ah ! what joy to have a bite; what rare delight to find one's bait gone" — arid it was only by the suicidal policy of some water-weary fish who chanced to pass our way that we could record one fish for our day's sport. How different is the fishing at the Bay. As an illustration, a very funny anecdote was recited to me by Mr. J. C. Covert, editor of the Cleveland Leader^ who said, " Talk about ladies catching fish, I am somewhat of an angler myself and take a great deal of comfort fishing at the Bay. The other day I was out fishing with my wife, who, by the way, has no pretensions as a captivator of the finny tribe, yet she caught seven fish before I had time to put my line into the water." This somewhat astonished me, and I remarked that he must have i6 been very slow that morning. He answered by telling me " No ! On the contrary, I was very lively ; all my time was employed taking the fish off and baiting her hook." He entered a protest after that and let the boatman attend to Mrs. Covert's line while he enjoyed the sport. A gentleman says of the fishing near the Hudson : " The first thing a woman does when she goes fishing is to make herself look as hideous aS possible — a sort of a cross between the Witch of Endor and Meg Merriles. This is done by a hideous straw hat big enough to cover a chicken coop, the oldest and most unbecoming dress she has got, a pair of gloves six sizes too large, and, if possible, rubber boots. And the sight of woman, lovely woman, so dressed, presents a spectacle of pity." You will not have occasion to pity any of the ladies who go fishing from the Bay, for they look so jaunty you would envy them and their enjoyment as well as fish. I have known Mrs. Madden and party to bring home 30 fish varying in size from a 3X black bass to a 7 pound pickerel. A friend writes from C Lake, telling how he spent a day fishing there, accompanied by three ladies and a gentleman friend. "Women never step into a boat here, they always jump. Of course she slips, tails down, yells for help, nearly upsets the boat, and is put to rights by the most eligi-ble young man in the party. Nothing will do, then, but she must 'row, and she knows as much about rowing as a cow does about billiards. She handles her oars as if they were trees, splashes every one with water, and after half an hour's work she is about ten feet away in the wrong direction, when T7 one of the men takes the oars and we are soon at our fishing place. She tries to bait her hook, and after getting the hook into all her fingers (in fact every- where but into the minnow), her friend baits her hook, and she throws it out. The first time it catches onto one of the ladies' ears, the next throw, into the back of the gentleman's neck, and the third time into the coat of her friend, who quietly cuts it out (il is his best coat), and he gently puts the line into the water without saying a cuss word, and says he hopes she will catch a whale. After a few moments of quiet all are informed she has a bite ; she pulls it in steadily to find it is part of the carcass of a dead horse. She is soon relieved of the burden and catches a small perch. She is so delighted that she must let it flop into the faces of every one in the boat, tries for twenty minutes to take it off the hook, but her fingers are so sore she lets the job out to her male companion. One of the other ladies has sat for two hours without moving a muscle, while the other, I believe, would fish with a hair-pin baited with a piece of red flannel hung to a skein of silk in a stationary wash-tub, and solemnly declare when she got through that she had millions of bites." Dear lady readers, we have no such experiences to relate at Alexandria Bay. The boats are the prettiest, the fishermen the nicest, the fish the largest and best, the boatmen bait your hooks. The hotel furnishes the lunch, and you are sure to catch fish. When they are cooked and you eat your meal served upon an Island, and do not say you have had the most pleasant day ever spent fishing, draw on me for the balance. P. B. i8 THE GIRLS OF FIFTEEN YEARS AGO. Well, " Phat Boy," what has become of the girls of fifteen years ago, at the Thousand Islands and the Bay ? Oh, they are all alive and kicking ; just as gay and giddy as of yore ; twenty-four, no older, and as each successive season rolls around they arrive, more and more attractive. We would have had electric lights last season but they were afraid that their peculiar beauty would not stand the light. They are better moonlight girls, you know. Yes, the girl of the past, God bless her, has come to the St. Lawrence to stay. YOU KNOW HER. She is one of the strong minded of the female sex, and generally has her own way in everything. At any rate she stands ready at any and all times to combat with any one of the lords of creation, or otherwise, who may dispute her sway. We prefer your imagination to fill in a description, because it would be next to an impossibility for me to do so. She has all the requisites: the thin, tall figure, the hatchet face, sharp nose, wears glasses, and always carries an umbrella. About one each day will pass down this route in Summer, except when an Eastern or Western Excursion comes; then it will be hard to select those who are not of her kind. The first object that strikes the eye is our manly figure. After looking it well over, she remembers that fat people are proverbially jolly and good natured, so she bteaks into conversation, and about the first question she asks is : " Were you always as large as you are now.-*" "Oh, yes ! I was born this size," The answer 19 causes her to discover she has left out the word " pro- portion." So she apologizes, smiles for the first time, and we are friends for the trip. WILL HE HAVE IT THERE? An English tourist registered at one of the Thousand Island Houses, Alexandria Bay, asked the clerk for a corner room up one flight, on shady side, a special hair boy, meals served in room, a bath and candle, instead of gas, steam heat and — "Hold on!" said the clerk ; ''I think you have made a mistake; this is not heaven." IRA SCHAFFER, of New York, a legal lord, who so ably defended Thomas Cleary, the boodle alderman, of New York, the jury disagreeing, six to six, paid the Thousand Islands a visit last season, and as we were fellow passengers on a trip around the islands one very hot afternoon, we passed the time amid the shades of the cabin and talked over old times, when fifteen years ago we passed down the river from Kingston to Montreal. After exhausting that subject we talked on religion, politics, and various other topics. Just as we were about to conclude our journey it suddenly occurred to him that I might be one of those newspaper interviewers and he suddenly seized me by the coat collar, and by a tremenduous effort, came very near choking me, and would not loosen his grip until I promised never to print what he had confidentially imparted to me. As my inten- tions were honorable, I acceded to his request, and it greatly relieved his mind as well as his hold on my 20 neck. By that promise this book loses at least one good story; but I will tell it privately to any of my readers. He was reported as hiding from the New York World^ keeping shady from its correspon- dent, and occupied the cottage of a relative with his numerous family, a little out of town. Speaking of the heat before he left home, he said : " The air was so hot and still that the buzz of the ever-welcome mosquito was a gentle reminder of a cyclone." LORD H. U. MERRIAM was a visitor at Alexandria Bay last season, and while he remained put up, from choice, at the Marsden House, Alexandria Bay. We were very intimate and social during his stay, and I inferred he came where I take my meals to see if he could get as fat as I am. WHAT I KNOW ABOUT ELI PERKINS. Some few years ago, Mr. Perkins was a passenger on one of the boats. I do not know whether he took me for the captain, director or manager of the line or not, but he exerted himself considerably to form my acquaintance. There was nothing unusual about that, however, as there is something "'distingue'" about me, and when on the boat I stand considerably "above proof." I have frequently dined at the same table with the Governor-General, Lord Dufferin and retinue — after his lordship had left. But to return to Eli. The day in question I was upon the boat, as usual, describing the points of interest, especially the one on the Canadian shore, where the St. Rigis Indians come year after year to gather the famous elm and basswood with which to make their celebrated baskets. 21 I was delineating at some length upon the noble red man, when Eli came to me and said, I will write you a verse of poetry about that. Glad to get a momento in that shape from so distinguished an individual, who had so often been accused of being witty, I said it would please me very much. Here is the verse : Once here the noble red man took his delights, Fit, fished and bled ; Now most of the inhabitants are white, ^ With nary a red. 1 thanked him very profusely, and on subsequent occasions took great delight in repeating the lines to the passengers— never forgetting for a moment to remind them that they were written for me by the alleged American humorist. One day, after deliver- ing myself of the poetry and repeating to the passen- gers that it was written by the celebrated poet, writer, humorist and lecturer, Eli Perkins, I was approached by an exceedingly polite and affable gentleman, whom I learned was Mr. John H. Rochester, of Rochester, N. Y., who asked me if he understood me correctly in attributing the authorship of the lines quoted to Mr. Perkins. I assured him that he had written them expressly for me, and produced in Eli's own hand- writing the original copy. With a subdued smile resting upon his countenance, Mr. Rochester informed me that there must be an error somewhere, as a gen- tleman, a Mr. Fletcher, had written a poem in 1834, in which the exact verse occurred, and he proceeded to repeat the verse from memory. This took me slightly back, and I subsequently came to the conclu- sion, with " my friend " of the Oil City Derrick, that a cabbage leaf was never more at home than when in the crown of "Uli Perkins' hat," After that I had 22 no more use for the poem, but determined if I ever met " Uli " I should call to his mind the cir- cumstances connected with '' his little poem." I had not long to wait, for one day, while in Evansville, Indiana, at the St. George Hotel, I met the gentleman, and recalled the circumstance con- nected with the little verse, and he, with a perfect air of nonchalance^ said that he had never given it a thought since — dashed it off in a minute. I told him how remarkable it was that great minds often run in the same channel, and related my experience with his gem. He scowled, and, turning on his heel, said it was indeed a singular word-for-word resem- blance, but changed the subject at once, and asked me to his room on the following morning, which invita- tion I cheerfully accepted, doting all the evening upon having a nice time, and swapping a few gags, etc., etc. ; but my hopes were blighted, for the next morning I was informed of his very early departure — gone up to lie to the people of Rockport, I was told. "Uli" is a great man and contracts a larger amount of business upon a very small amount of capital than any public character I know of. When Eli reads this I expect he will load his big gun — not intellectual, but otherwise — and come for me. I will, therefore, give him a pointer in advance; there won't anything scare me but a stomach pump. H. R. CLARK, of New York. This little volume would not be complete if it did not mention his name, not only in connection with the fishing at Alexandria Bay, but the facts of his 23 having given more time and money towards stopping illegal fishing, having been appointed one of the first of the fisheries commission. He was elected an hon- orable member of the Canadian Fisheries Commis- sion, as well, and was the prime mover in forming the Anglers' Association of the Thousand Islands, and personally captured more nets than all others inter- ested combined. He is the most enthusiastic, as well as the best posted gentleman that comes to the Islands to fish, and knows more about the habits and nature of the finny tribe than any man since the days of Seth Green. He won the gold medal given for the largest and best catch of fish" for the season of 1885. His standing offer to catch ten pounds of fish in a given hour, in any day, from the St. Lawrence River, during the season, or give ten dollars to any charitable insti- tution I may mention, if he fails. Here is one of his catches on an eight ounce rod, a single leader, a "G" line, a fish weighing seventy-eight pounds, girt measure twenty-nine inches, length sixty-three inches, time in landing one hour and five minutes. Beat this and I will tell you more. Hon. A. CORNWALL, of Alexandria Bay. Cornwall & Walton were the original purchasers of the Thousand Islands, in the American channel of the river from the government. Mr. A. Cornwall is the survivor of the firm and therefore the father of them, and I call him Pa. If you desire any information not in this volume, c^ll on him at the old stone stores of Cornwall Brothers, and he will give it to you cheer- fully. He is an Encyclopedia of facts on the St. Lawrence or the Thousand Islands. 24 WHAT AND WHO MADE ALEXANDRIA BAY. In 1872, President Grant visited this delightful spot, a guc. t of R. M. Pullman, of palace car fame, Pullman Island. There was at that time inadequate hotel accommodations, for the tourist as well as the visitor who had been drawn to this, the most beautiful natural scenery in the world. Messrs. CornAvall and Walton of Alexandria Bay, with their usual display of sense and sagacity, as well as business tact, for which they have always been commended, offered to give the best site on the St. Lawrence to any man who would erect upon it a first-class summer hotel. Mr. O. G. Staples, of Watertown, N. Y., hearing of this ofier came, he saw, and how he conquered you shall know as we proceed with our narrative. Well, he concluded to father the scheme. Securing a man with money, a Mr. Nott, of Syracuse, the ground, or rock rather, was broken January 14th, 1873, and the Thousand Island House was completed and opened July 17th, 1873, just six months from the day of starting. Rumor says that although their money gave out a little above the first story, Staples' indomitable will saw it completed and furnished, ready to receive guests, just as soon and as well as if he had been a millionaire. During the next two years of the part- nership of Staples and Nott, everything did not f,D as smooth as a marriage bell, but still they went, and in the end Staples had the money and hotel. (I hope the reader, if he knows Staples, will not be so unkind as to accuse him of parting with all his experience and make the pun that he took the money and Nott 25 the experience.) Staples bought out Nott, and, I believe, paid him what was agreed, and he run the hotel until April 15th, 1883, when Mr. R. H. Southgate (the man of many hotels, too numerous to mention here), bought him out. The many changes that have been made, and those contemplated, when completed, will make this the mecca of summer resort watering places, the Venice of America. I desire to say right here that I hope Mr. Southgate will not lose sight of what has in the past made the Bay popular as a resort. I like to see the standard of visitors raised as well as the prices. J would like it to be the place for fish as well as those who love the piscatorial art. No dust, no dampness, no malaria or hay fever, no mosquitoes; light, dry air, cool and bracing. Ther- mometer never over 80 or below 50 in July or August, and one can enjoy what is denied them almost every- where else, a good nine hours of cool refreshing sleep under a blanket. Those troubled with pulmonary complaints will find great relief here. Steamers, steam yachts and sailing vessels abound, everything to animate the scene and enhance the pleasure of visitors is done. Fishing, fishing boats, bathing, etc., as well as fish abound, and we say here, if you have never been to the Bay, come. Mr. Fred W. Lee will per- sonally attend to the wants of guests and if you can be pleased" anywhere I feel confident he is the right man in the right place. THE LARGE GATHERINGS. Round Island Park, Thousand Island Park and Alexandria Bay have, at different times, been honored 26 by conventions, meetings of associations in conven- tions, pilgrimages, etc., a minute description of which would fill a volume ten times the size of this one, so I can only mention what is uppermost in my mind, the Press Association of Vermont, under the guid- ance of S. W. Cummings, Esq., the general passenger agent of the Central Vermont Railroad. He and his associates made for them an ever to be remembered excursion trip. The Librarians of America stayed in the midst of the Thousand Islands three or four days. They were, without exaggeration, the most refined and educated body of men and women that I ever met. The Brooklyn Tabernacle, with its thousand pilgrims, were also delighted with every- thing they saw at the Thousand Islands, and were profuse in their expressions of its scenic beauty. I met the Rev. Dr. Talmadge and had a personal inter- view. I don't wonder now that his mas^netism holds such sway with his Brooklyn audience, and that the whole world receives so cheerfully through the tele- graph his sermons. THEY DO IT EVERY TIME. When the average American's postage stamp does not stick he storms around and makes the air fairly blue until he secures the mucilage bottle and fixes the stamp to his letter. Not so with the average Canadian. He procures a needle and thread, sits quietly down and sews the darned thing on. THE HUMORISTS OF AMERICA. Most of these jovial, good-natured souls have, at some time or other, paid the Thousand Islands and 27 the St. Lawrence River a visit, but it would be useless for me to try and remember each and every one of them, or their peculiarities. I cheerfully remember Mark Twain, (Samuel L. Clements, Esq.,) and one of the funniest stories I tell was of an evening spent at Toronto, while a guest of a friend. And the little speech that he made introducing Senator Hawley, who was to make a political address at Elmira, N. Y. He was a passenger down the river. After naming over several towns and streets in the Province of Quebec, he remarked : "Are they all saints here ; no sinners ''? SALISBURY, of the Fall River Advance, Roing down the St. Law- rence, as a passenger, and his written description of the trip, is the most humorous that I have had the pleasure of perusing. ''Bob'' Burdette's, of the Burlington Hawkeye, description of the Victoria Bridge, is very funny. Knox, of the Texas Sif tings ^ went down on the opposition line, so did not have a chance to meet him. Eli Perkins, you cheer- fully remember, and I have given a very definite description of an interview, in another part of this work. REPRESENTATIVE MEN of New York, New Orleans, Rochester, Buffalo, Pittsburgh, Cleveland and Chicago, respectively, who occupy cottages, etc., at the Thousand Islands during the summer, should be mentioned here, but space alone prevents. This little volume is 28 published expressly for Tourists who travel, and if it becomes large, burdensome or cumbersome, it is useless for what it is designed, as a descriptive book of the St. Lawrence River. I therefore, cannot lose sight of this fact, and must content myself with publishing a book that will contain about i8o or 200 pages. H. H. Warner, of Rochester, N. Y.; George M. Pullman, Chicago ; W.J. Lewis, H. A. Laughlin, G. T. Raiferty, J. S. Laney, of Pittsburgh ; J. C. Covert, Ex-Mayor Rose and Mr. J. M. Curtis, of Cleveland, Ohio; Judge Labath, N. O.; C. J. Hudson, of New York ; Judge Thomas Troy, of Brooklyn ; Hon. R. A. Livingston, N. Y.; M. B. Bettman, of Buffalo ; John Lowery, of New York ; L. G. Souen, Mr. J. W. White, of White Plains; H. R. Clark and family of Jersey City ; Royal E. Deane of New York ; last but not least, my solid friend Col. T. G. Carnes, of Gainsville, Texas, a man after my own heart, and weight as well. He says he enjoys himself more at Alexandria Bay, andean keep his three hundred and ten pounds cooler, than at any other resort in America, and when you are about to select a summer home think of me and my three hundred and thirty-three pounds, and after passing fifteen years on the St. Lawrence I have not seen over two days iu any summer that would cause me, through heat, to wilt my shirt collar, which is the best test the heat or perspiration can have upon a fat man. Think of this, and when you want a cool place come to our island home. 29 THE PEOPLE WE MEET AT THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. Visitors going to the Thousand Islands will strike the river at either Kingston, Cape Vincent, Gan- anoqua or Clayton. The first of the summer resorts after leaving Clayton is Round Island, which is occupied by the Baptists, but the denominational sectarian barriers have been removed the same as at each of the other resorts, and all Christians, of whatever sect, or no sect, are welcome. Even the dude can revel in his peculiarity. The next point is Thousand Island Park. This is occupied by the Methodists, and they welcome everyone, except on Sundays, when no persons are allowed to land on the island. The Fine View House, Central Park, and Edge- wood Park, have no religious proclivities known to me, but " Solomon Isaacs" would not be admitted at Edgewood Park unless he would swear that he was a "Quaker.*' Westminster Park was founded by the Presby- terians, and is occupied by them and their friends. Summerland by the Universalists and their friends. Alexandria Bay is cosmopolitan, where everybody is welcome and can stay as long as they behave them- selves and pay their board. Now, dear reader, imagine the Baptists, Methodists, Presbyterians, Universalists and all their friends combined, and now if you want a summer of pleasure without any baneful influences, you wouldn't miss it in securing the Thousand Islands for your summer home, where there are no bad people whatever, such 30 as drunkards, loafers, tramps, people of bad repute, male or female, and if they should drift in they would receive a cool reception among the people of the Thousand Islands. It would not require a Pinkerton or any other detective to select from among those Christian people or their friends any bad character, but they come, nevertheless, though their stay is short. WM. H. VANDERBILT AND PARTY Made a trip down the St. Lawrence River. Col. Wagner of the palace car fame piloted the party. Knowing the Colonel very well, and he knowing the position I occupied on the boat, was very anxious to have me make the trip as pleasant as possible for Mr. W. H. V. Taking me over and introducing me to Mr. Vanderbilt, who shook me warmly by the hand and said he hoped to have a pleasant trip; as Mr. Wagner had given me charge for the day he hoped it would save him a great deal of annoyance, which it did, for we had not left Prescott fifteen minutes before a gentleman introduced himself to me as one of the professors of the Vanderbilt University, of Nashville, Tenn., and stated that Mr. Vanderbilt's father had endowed the University, but he never had had the pleasure of knowing the Commodore, there- fore asked me if I would not be kind enough to introduce him to Mr. W. H. V., that he might have a few moments for an interview. I told him that I would speak to Mr. Vanderbilt and if he had no objection I certainly had none. I talked with him on the subject, and he said if there was three minutes in which there was nothing of interest he would see him, but for me to be sure that I had a good whoa on 3^ him so that I could call him off when it became neces- sary. As we were favored with having on board the City Band of Montreal who occupied a promin- ent position on the upper deck, I made arrange- ments with the gentleman before introducing him to Mr. Vanderbilt that when I raised my right hand that he would close the interview, as we would be nearing a point of interest. Fearing he might not recognize my uplifted hand I made arrangements with the leader of the band on the upper deck that it would also be a signal for them to play a tune, and I also carried a lasso to draw him off that way if the other two chances failed. So when I raised my right hand he saw it and recognized it, and came towards me, so that I did not have to resort to the other methods which I had prepared for Mr. Vanderbilt's escape of being talked to death. It was a fine trip. Nothing occurred to mar the pleasure, and Mr. Vanderbilt and party listened to my descriptions very atten- . tively. During my lecture I remarked that notwith- standing that I had been guide on the rivers eight years, that only yesterday I had discovered the most popular point on the trip; that all who desired to see it might turn their eye to the extreme right and they would discover the popular point. They were all poplars there, nine in a row. Mr. Vander- bilt, who was seated by his wife, arose and requested them to be seated, and stated that that was only one of the "Phat Boy's" jokes. THE WHY NOT! I am asked almost every day why the Canadians do not occupy the islands in their channel of the river 32 the same as the Americans do. The onl)'- answer T can qive is. that the American comes here to rough it, tisli ami enjoy himself diirino- liis summer vacation and the Canadians have it rough enougli the year rc>und. so do not have to come. BOYS ON A STEAMER. Here is a genuine. His parents are with liim ; he cannot keep still ; he wants chietlv to break his neck or fall overboard, or to get crushed bv the walking- beam : he has been twice dragged from the steps leading to tiie walking-beam, used bv the assistant engineer for lubricating purposes ; lie would like to get in the paddle boxes, has talked every othcer on board to death, and is now trving his best to worry the deck hands. How curiouslv constructed is a real bov, to go whither he should n^n, and especially where his anxious mother most fears he will go; he is now doing his best to spoil his parents' trip. We can leave him for a moment: he won't tlag in his endeavor to get into trouble or to make his parents miserable. This is a smaller boy — not yet out of his petticoats, but very active: he, too, has with him an anxious mother; he has found anotlier boy — a strange bov, of the same size and sex : they have become acquainted; the strange bov is allowed bv his parents to roam about the boat at will: hcinvitesthe nicelittle bov to roam also : he wants him to roam as near the walking- beam as possible ; he has roamed there before himself and escaped : he tells tlie nice little boy how cunning it is to come near being crushed : the nice little boy's mother forbids anv roaminsr at all : she looks with 33 disfavor on the strange boy ; but the strange boy con- tinues to hang around ; he knows, so does the nice boy, together they can fool any one mother ; united they stand, divided they fall ; now the nice boy edges away from the side of his mother, for her energies are momentarily concentrated on the set of her bonnet and the nice-looking gentleman at the other end of the saloon who is taking side glances at her through the mirrt)r. Now the nice boy gets farther away ; they are on the forbidden part of the deck, near the walking-beam. It is great fun. Now the cross man who. keeps order on the deck drives them away. They go to the news agent's stand and help themselves to anything on the table when he is not looking. They are now running in and out of the state rooms, where the passengers have gone to take a little rest, getting in everybody's way; it is a wonder they haven't been killed twenty times. It is great fun for the boys, but almost death to the passengers. And the mother is still so occupied with her bonnet and the dude who has made a mash or favorable impression upon her that she has not missed her nice little boy. ONE ON THE DRUMMER. It would be passing strange if I can not tell at least one story on the urbane and gentlemanly commercial traveler, whose duty it is to visit the different places along the border line between the State of New Yoik and Canada, alternately, day after day, so that it would seem to be difficult to tell just where you were without stopping for some time and take in the surroundings. Said a drummer one day : " I don't have to stop and 34 ponder; in fact, it don't take up any of my time to ascertain my location, should I, by accident or other- wise, run up against a party. If it should be in Canada they would say: 'Beg pardon, sir, beg par- don,' while if it should happen in the states you would be looked at very savagely, and the party would say : 'what's the matter with you ; are you drunk or afraid of the cars ? Go throw sand at yourself,' or words to that effect." SIR JOHN A. Mcdonald, who is Canada's prime minister, has been a pas- senger upon the boats, two and three times during each season, until his face became a very familiar one to me, and I must say that it is as jolly looking as my own and about as expressive; while his is a Roman nose, mine is a pug. I remember his first trip down, after his election to the premiership, and my saying to him: Now we have a change in politics and in government, I shall expect, of course, a position under the new government. Sir John A. remarked : Yes, you shall have it. I shall make a change. We will have the riv^ers run the other way so you can be utilized day and night to make it pleasant for the people without extra pay or allow- ance. When giving my description of Barnhart's Island and the Canadian Channel, passing around, the settlement of the treaty of 1812, and the ratifica- tion of the same by Lord Ash Burton and Daniel Webster, he asked me if those were facts and I said yes, and I am astonished to think that you would have to ask me about such an important point and treaty. When nearing Montreal I had finished giving a description of places and points of interest, and had 35 described Bonseconns market when he told me that an Irish friend of his pronounced it different, he called it Bone Scowered market. WHISTLES. Very few people can imagine the different whistles maintained on the steamers plying the St. Lawrence River, but it is a fact that each steamer has a peculiar whistle, and many people can tell the name of the steamer by its whistle. Take, for instance, the Steamer Armstrong, it has a very peculiar whistle, and its first impression causes some to laugh, some to cry and others to run for the paregoric bottle. Her whistle will make more noise and cause more com- ment than any other steamboat on the river. The Van Horn's whistle is more pleasant and musical in its tone, and after listening to her for a moment relief is so apparent that you feel as if you had secured the paregoric bottle and was enjoying its soothing influences. The new Island Wanderer, said the Captain, will have a whistle different from all others. You can stay at the Bay and hear her whistle when we are at Echo Point. "GOING THAT WAY." Captain Sinclair, of the Steamer Passport, was in a fog early one morning just before leaving Kingston and one of the passengers remarked to him that it was clear above, to which the captain answered, "Yes, but unless we have a blow-up we will not go that way." A GOOD ONE ON CAPTAIN ESTES. Everyone familiar with the St. Lawrence river will surely recognize the name of Estes as it is one that 36 has been connected with the river for the past forty years. Some one of the Utica, N. Y., daily papers men- tioned Captain Estes of the Steamer St. Lawrence as a man extremely polite and scrupulously neat in his dress, and very attentive to those who are passengers on his boat ; a man who does not chew, smoke or drink, nor tell fish stories. An old gentleman, accompanied by his wife and daughter, having heard of the captain's reputation, remarked that he would like to introduce him to his daughter. The gallant captain, who looks very young for his age, answered, "No, thanks, I am a married man." THE PHARMACEUTICAL ASSOCIATION of the State of New York held their annual conven- tion at the Thousand Islands last year, and when they made their excursion on the Island Wanderer around the islands I accompanied them and delineated the points of interest on the trip. Just before arriving at Central Park they noticed the large twelve-foot letters " C. P.," which are used for illuminating post at night, there being hung upon the letters one hundred lanterns. Some one asked what the "C. P." stood for. I answered Central Park, when one of the members, the president's wife, I think, answered "' C. P.' means chemically pure. I never knew it to mean anything else but that." This biographical incident is intended for druggists only. Our President, GROVER CLEVELAND, with his wife and a party ot friends, paid the Thousand Islands and River St. Lawrence a visit last year. They came by Rome, Watertow^n & Ogdensburgh 37 Rail Road to Cape Vincent, chartered the palace steamer St. Lawrence and proceeded down the main channel of the river, passing all the points of interest in the Thousand Islands without stopping. Running close to the docks at Alexandria Bay they proceeded to cross the river over into the Canadian channel of the river, where they remained for a couple of hours, then returned to Cape Vincent. This little volume was compiled to mention "The People I have met." As I did not meet our President on that occasion, he will be obliged to come under the head of " The Things I have seen." I expect, if he is re-elected, to get a post office for that. APING CUSTOMS, MANNERS, ETC., OF THE ENGLISH. This is done to a great extent, not only in Canada, but I am sorry to say in Free America, better known as the U. S. I cannot find any fault with the. average Canadian, who is, as it were, governed by Queen Victoria, and must have some reverence for royalty, in the aping of their manners and customs, but in this land, where we have an abundance of Queens, Princes, Lords and Sovereigns who are not flattered by titles, but bear their honors meekly, all are royal born and bred. Speaking of titles reminds me that at home I am plain Edward F. Babbage, or " Phat Boy " (I spell it with *' Ph " because it does not sound so greasy), but the moment I leave home, say for a trip through the South, I am called Captain for the first few hundred miles, then a little way on it becomes Colonel, and when I get to Georgia it is Major ; in South Carolina it is Judge or General, 38 until I get to Florida, and I have heard them say there, " Great God, is that you ? " But we diverge. Returning to the aping of the manners of Princess Louise, I wish to say right here that 1 firmly believe that it did the Canadian people a great amount of good, but fail to see where the people of the United States could be benefited. I was told that at Kingston the Princess asked for her strawberries in a box with the hulls on, and when placed before her she took them up by the stem between the thumb and finger and bit the berry off and placed the hull on the plate. Now everybody does the same ; previous to her visit they used to hull and wash them before placing them on the table. The same with grapes. They used to wash them in a goblet of water at the table before eating them ; now they take the grape between the thumb and finger, press it to the lips and squeeze gently, and juice as well as insides are soon on the way to digestion, and the skin laid away on the plate as the Princess did. Asparagus — it was almost pain- ful for me to see Canadians eat it in as many wb.ys as there were people at the table, in fact, no two ate it alike until after the Princess came ; now everybody takes it by the hard green end, between thumb and finger, and putting it into the mouth, close the teeth down upon it and draw it gently from the mouth, leaving all that is digestible within, and the remainder is laid on the plate. The Princess once took a walk through her kitchen at Rideau Hall, Ottawa, took the vegetable cook to task for washing fresh picked peas from the vine that had just been shelled, saying it was nonsense, if your hands are clean, to wash a virgin pea. 39 ''WE ARE SEVEN." And they were in fact, as well as every other way, seven of the finest gentlemen I ever met. They passed down the St. Lawrence River its full length from Kingston to the Gulf, bent on sight-seeing and pleas- ure, and when you read over the names you will know that each received his full share : John H. Rochester, Charles E. Fitch, George H. Humphrey, D. M. Dewey, William F. Peck, Charles P. Boswell, Alexander Thompson. WE CALL THEM TRAMPS. During the Centennial year many foreigners were always found among the list of passengers from every country. The proverbial English tourist cannot be mistaken by any, but this year, 1876, we had many who were too green or unsophistical to be in that class. Now this truthful occurrence which I am about to relate is original and occurred upon one of the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company's line of boats. The Englishman was relating to his newly found friend his opinion of the United States, etc., in his own peculiar style. Hi don't like this blarsted country, you know ! Why, said his friend, what fault can you find with America ? Oh, Hi've been all over it, you know, and can't find any sawciety there. Society, said his friend, what do you mean by society? Oh, dear me, you have no gentlemen or gentlemen's sons in h'America. Why, what do you mean by gen- tlemen and gentlemen's sons? Oh! Hi mean gen- tlemen who never did any work, you know, nor their sons, either. You make a mistake there, my worthy 40 friend, we have millions of them here, but we call them tramps, and I have often thought it the best definition to a tramp I ever heard, for if there are gentlemen and their sons here who never did any work they will soon make good timber for tramps, if they are not already. ''NOT A GEORGE WASH." He had told several very improbable stories bor- dering upon the Eli Perkins order, and then remarked to a friend that he could not tell a lie. But the friend replied that he could the moment he heard it, and to the best of his judgment he had told several. ROUTE OF THE STEAMER "ISLAND WANDERER." The dock from which the "Island Wanderer" leaves for her daily excursions around the Islands, morning at 8, afternoons at 2:15, is in front of Cornwall Brothers' Stone Store, where tickets and all informa- tation may be had relative to any route by either rail or boat, to any part of the globe. Taking your posi- tion upon any part of the boat that will allow you to face the bow, upon your right will be Hart's Island, Westminster Park Dock and Freight House, which Is located at the lower end of Wells' Island — this island is ten miles long by four wide. A little above, hid by a cluster of trees, is the residence of John Winslow, next is Imperial Isle, owned by Mr. Singer, of New York. The next is Linlithgow, owned by the Hon. R. A. Livingston, of New York. The next cottage on bluff is owned by Miss Lucy 41 J. Bullock — the cottage a little above is owned by- Prof. A. G. Hopkins. Next is Florence Island. Near the water edge is the boat house of St. Elmo and the conspicuous slate-colored cottage above and wind- mill below, is owned by Mr. N. W. Hunt, of Brooklyn, N. Y. It is presumed you have taken in the above panorama before starting. Immediately after starting, on the left, you pass the Thousand Island House and Little Staples Island — around the point is Otter Creek, Edgewood Park and Martin's Cottage. The Edgewood Park Company have erected an elegant hotel and several cottages are being built by the members of the company, who form a sort of social club for their families and friends, care being exer- cised in the selection of members as well as visitors, and if the project is carried out, as it is contemplated, this Edgewood Park will be the summer home of some of the best people in America. On the right is Friendly Island, containing cottage, boat house and lookout, owned by E. W. Dewey, of New York. Next above is Nobby Island, owned by H. R. Heath, of New York. Opposite, on the left, is Cherry Island (the reason they call it "Cherry" is because they raise their own strawberries from which they make their celebrated custard pies). The Island con- tains Ingleside Cottage and Melrose Lodge, owned by Mr. A. B. Pullman and C. B. Marsh, of Chicago, 111., also I. T. Easton's Villa, called Stuyvesant Cot- tage, and Rev. George Rockwell's Cottage. Opposite, on the right, is the famous Pullman Island, where Gen. U. S. Grant visited in 1872, owned by George M. Pullman. Thousands of dollars have been expended here during the past year. Next, West and Safe Point, 42 which are on Wells' Island. On the lett is the famous Devil's Rock and Oven of historic fame. It is said that here is where Bill Johnson hid himself, as there is an opening in the rock large enough for the usual fishing boat to enter with its contents and be com- pletely hid from view. This is what is called the Oven, as it resembles the old form of Dutch ovens. Beyond, on the left near the main shore, is Cuba, owned by W. F. Story of Buffalo, N. Y. Opposite, on the right, is Crag's Side, owned by H. A. Laughlin, of Pittsburgh. Next, on the left, is Hill's Island and boat house, owned by C. E. Hill, of Chicago, 111. Next, on the left, is Warner's Island. On the right is Palisade Point, owned by A. J. Beckwith. Next, on the left, is Comfort Island, owned by Mr. A. E. Clark, of the Chicago Stock Exchange. Mr. Clark has lavishly expended a large amount of money for " Comfort. " It is joined to Neh-Mahben, meaning twin lakes or islands, owned by J. H.Oliphant, of New York. On the right is Louisiana Point, owned by Judge La Batte, of New Orleans, La. I desire to apologize for stating in my last edition that Judge La Batte was dead. He came to death's door and was so low that his physician had called his family to his bedside to witness his last moments, when he motioned to his son to come near, and drawing his ear down close to his lips, he whispered, " Take me to my summer home on the St. Lawrence." They started from New Orleans, La., the next day and he arrived at Louisiana Point in July, and the day of this writing, August 2oth, he had gained sixteen pounds in flesh and was feeling quite strong and happy — a gentleman, living like the " Thane of Cawdor." Opposite, on 43 the left, is Keppler Point, Buena Vista Lodge, owned by a gentleman from Cleveland, O., who purchased it last season. On the right is Seven Isles, owned by Gen. Bradley Winslow. Mclntyre's cottage, " Photo," is in Dinsmore Bay, next to Seven Isles. On the left is an Indian Camp and Allegheny Point, owned by J. S. Laney, of Pitts- burgh, Pa. A little above is Gypsy Point, owned by J. M. Curtis, of Cleveland, O. Rose Island is con- nected with Gypsy Point by a beautiful rustic bridge. Rose Island and cottage is owned by W. G. Rose, Ex-Mayor of Cleveland, O. Opposite, on the right, is Shady Covert, a beautiful villa owned by J. C. Covert, Editor of the Cleveland Leader. On the right is Point Vivian, a delightful spot occupied by a stock company, mostly from Evans' Mills, N. Y. Opposite, on the right, is Island Royal, owned by Royal E. Deane, of New York. Behind Royal is Holton's Cottage, also owned by Royal E. Deane. Above on the right is Hill Crest, owned by General Shields, of Philadelphia, Pa. Nothing of interest right or left for the space of a mile except Lindner's Island, until we come to Cen- tral Park (Woodbine and Crest Cottages are located here), where we make our first stop for passengers. The next island is owned by J. F. Moffit, of Water- town, N. Y. — Brown's Bay on the right and Swan's Bay on the left. A little above the left is Little Cal- umet, owned by J. D. Green, of Boston, Mass. Above, on the main shore, is the cottage of J. B. Collins. Opposite, on the right, may be seen the celebrated Limburger Cheese Factory. Opposite, on the main shore, left, is the farm and house of Capt. Jack ; the 44 mill and dock somewhat dilapidated. Opposite is Island Blanch and cottage, E. D. Buckingham, owner. A little opposite is Paul's Dock and Sunny- Side, with three other villas ; also a dairy farm which, from its fine looking barns, sheds and house, must be considered very prosperous. Peel's Dock having been rebuilt, was memorable as the spot where the vessel "Sir Robert Peel" was burned in retaliation for the "Caroline" being sent over Niagara Falls. Next, on the right, "Jolly Oaks," Twin Cottage Home, Pleasant View and San Souci's, four cottages and dock. The pretty little summer house on the Island passed, we arrive at Fern Cliff cottages and dock. A large stone cottage was erected here last season, called Hiawatha Cottage. This is for sale. Beautiful villas, camps and cottages line the banks on the right, among which is Fair View^ owned by Mr. Butterfield, of Redwood, N. Y., until we arrive at Fine View. Opposite, on the left, is Fisher's Landing and Knight's Hotel, Robinson Island, Johnson's Light and Cottage, Hemlock, Cedar and other Islands around the point, and we come in sight of Thousand Island Park — located at the upper end of Wells' Island, owned and controlled by the Methodists; the neatest, most orderly and attractive resort among the Islands. Something should be said here regarding this, the most celebrated spot among the Thousand Islands. As it is impossible, from my limited knowledge, to do the subject justice, and, as I cannot steal, clip, borrow or plagiarize from any other work, I can only say, stay over one day, or until the boat comes back, and look over this delightful spot. 45 Again, on our way we pass around the head of Wells' Island, and have a view on the right of the finest avenue in the Park, a long line of boat-houses, and a number of steam yachts, sail and fishing boats, wind-mills, etc., etc. Beyond, on the right, is Hem- lock Island and Hotel, owned by Mr. Garrison, of Syracuse. On the left is Grennell's Island and house, where the boat stops for passengers ; beyond, on the right, is Otsego Point and cottages. We next pass two cottages, after which Pickton Isle. Beyond is Eel Bay ; on the left, beneath the brow of the hill, is where the American Canoe Club holds in annual con- vention. On Grindstone Island, whicli is in Jefferson County, N. Y., there are 500 inhabitants on the island, all Republicans. They, however, all voted the Demo- cratic ticket presidential year, which elected Cleve- land. After leaving Grindstone Island we cross the boundary line between the United States and Canada, after which we arrive at many very pretty Islands, on the right as well as on the left. ''YES! A GREAS-Y STATUE." " How much do you weigh ?" Well, I am asked that question many times every day, and as I am not sen- sitive will say my weight is three hundred and thirty- three pounds, just one pound for every mile between Toronto and Montreal via Grand Trunk Railway (in the shade). The reason why I say the shade is because there has never been raised a mathematician with the ability to compute the weight of a grease spot, and were I compelled to remain in the sun very long would make one, and do not care to mislead people into an error. The fat of this land is about as 46 unequally distributed as the wealth. Those who ain't got it want it ; those who have it, have too much. I am therefore a Vanderbilt in grease, have a corner in lard, as it were. "DO YOU GO OUT FISHING?" Well, not often. You see, this ponderous body of mine does not fit the average fishing boat. My fears are not all bound up in that one fact, nor in the satis- faction that if the boat should upset that I would not sink, but the fear that is indelibly photographed upon my mind, that, as I would float, and being so large, some steamboat captain or pilot would take me for an island, lay alongside and let the passengers off for a little picnic or an hour's pleasure. Think of it. YACHTING. Water — and as one enthusiastic writer puts it — such water! — is abundant, and to enjoy this water in a pensive or poetic mood, the steam yacht should be brought into requisition. Private yachts are numer- ous and elegant, and it is to the credit of the owners that they are not niggardly in exhibiting a spirit of generosity and courtesy. They are constantly inviting individuals and parties to enjoy the exhilarating excitement of the shooting around the beautiful spots. And if you, dear tourist, have no friend that invites you to share a cushioned seat in his graceful fairy like craft, then go to Capt. E. W. Visger, on the Island Wanderer^ who will take you on an excursion among the Islands that you will gladly recall as a cheerful reminiscence of your St. Lawrence excursion, for the opportunity will have been offered to bring 47 within the range of your vision enchanting scenes that pen is not adequate to describe, but by purchasing one of the 'That Boy's" Pictures of the St. Lawrence, you will be the possessor of the only correct map of the St. Lawrence. A perfect guide to the river. ''WOULD YOU BELIEVE IT?" A gentleman from London came on board the boat at Kingston one morning, rushed up to me and said, Mr.Babbage, how do you do! Why you cannot imagine how glad I am to see you ! Why, do you know that before I left " Home" a lady invited me to take tea at her house, and when I told her 1 was coming to America she never stopped talking about you for over two hours ; it is a great relief to meet you, I assure you. Meeting upon the street one afternoon, a very fine looking old gentleman, he said, hold on a moment, I have something to tell you. I have just received a letter from my daughter who lives in Australia, she said she found one of your books upon the table at her friend's house where she was visiting, so she enquired how it came there. Why, bless your soul, we took a trip with him down the St. Lawrence River and he made it pleasant for us for eight hours and I would not part with book for an interest in the profits of the "new version" or revised edition. A lady wrote me from Trenton, N. J.: " While at Alexandria Bay, in 1883, I bought a copy of the ' Phat Boy's' Delineations of the St Lawrence River (I think of the Author from the picture on the cover) . .Have read it over and over to my friends until it is completely worn out, can you forward me another copy ?" I did as requested and at the same time 48 enquired what pleased her friends most, and she said in reply, that it was all good, but the articles upon myself were the most pleasins: to her. I must, there- fore, send her a copy of this, my hist effort. H. H. WARNER AND GEO. M. PULLMAN. Two of nature's noble men. Two of the greatest benefactors of the human race. Two of the greatest men born in New York State. One the inventor of the celebrated Pullman Car that has given ease, rest and comfort to the whole enlightened world. The other the Warner's Safe Cure, which has given relief to millions of sufferers from Kidney and Liver disease. Each in turn are spending a small portion of his immense wealth in building suitable cottages upon their respective Islands, "Warner's" and "Pullman's," which they expect to occupy during the coming season. When such men as they are, do what they intend, it will prove to the world that The Thovisand Islands, as a watering place, has no equal and by next season we may look for a "boom" beyond our greatest expectation. THE LOTUS SEEKER. This tidy little craft made its first appearance on the St. Lawrence at the beginning of last season, is owned by Mr. Ilolden, of Buffalo, N. Y., who has a very beautiful cottage at Thousand Island Park. Many times during the season she could be seen plying in and out among the Islands, comfortably filled with invited guests of her owner and passing every thing moved by steam power. I felt quite badly one day 49 while taking a ride upon one of tlie "cracked" yachts, to be passed so quickly by the " Lotus Seeker " that I did not have time to say s^ood-bye to my frend, J. W. l^urdick, Gen. Passenger Agent of tiie D. & H. R. R. Co., wiu) was one of her passengers. MR. SAM SONDHEIM. How well I remember his first visit to the Thousand Isles, accompanied by several friends, all of vvliom are expert fishermen, Messrs. Elirich Bros., of 8th Ave., 24th and 25th Sts. , Messrs, Max and Harry Stadler, of Broadway, N. Y. Well, Sam was the most Amateur of all amateur fishers, but he soon became infatuated, and as good luck followed each and every. effort, " Sam " became almost desperate. I never saw one so much '''•enthused.'' Why, he tele- graphed home three times and had his vacation extended. At last he was so lucky he beat all the experts, broke all the records and cheerfully left for home, sighing, however, to think he had no more conquests to make. Years have passed since then, and now he is numbered among the expert fishers of the Islands. WALTER H. GRIFFIN, who for many years was room clerk at the Thousand Island House (now connected with Hotel Kaaterskill), was the winner of the prize for the largest pickerel catch of 1884. It was caught within one hundred yards of the Hotel and weighed eighteen and three- quarter pounds. MR. J. C. MATTHEWS, who was the manager of tlie Thousand Island House in 1884, is enquired after by visitors more than any 5° other person. I hope to be saved some trouble, as well as time, by stating here that he is the proprietor of the Sturtevant House, N. Y., President of the Hotel Keepers' Association and is paying Europe a visit the present season. LORD DUFFERIN, one of Canada's former Governor-Generals, and in my opinion, the best they ever had, was a passenger down the St. Lawrence many times while I was guide to the River. How well I remember some one asking him why he left Toronto and his comfortable quarters at the Queen's Hotel to come to Montreal. He answered by stating, that over across the lake, in the United States, they had just had an election, and as it was impossible to tell who was really chosen by the people, he was afraid they, the people, would rise in their might, send a deputation over to Toronto, kidnap him and place him in the presidential chair. Then what would become of Poor Little Canada.'* GEORGE WARREN SHEPHERD, formerly a Utica dry goods merchant, and now assso- ciated with his brother in Winter street, Boston, Mass., made the Thousand Islands his home many summers. I well remember one evening at Clayton, having just met and talked over old times, (we were in the minstrel business at one time, say twenty-three years ago), when an old countryman from way back came up and interrupted our conversation by asking what made those smooth tracks on the water. I was about to remark that it was the wake of some vessel or steamer, when George, to guy the farmer, said : 51 '' They were the tracks made by sleighs during the winter and were not taken up when the ice went out." ALL NATIONALITIES BENEFITED. It improves even the Italian to visit Alexandria Bay. We had one there last season who washed his tace three times a day and ate his meals at the table like a Christian. "A LITTLE ONE ON PERKINS." Two gentlemen at the Thousand Island House one day were talking, ivhen the subject of truth was approached, and one of them who stammered, said, "There are t-t-three great li-liars i-i-in America." The friend said. " Who are they? " " 0-o-one of t-t-them i-i-is T-T-Tom Oc-Oc- Ochiltree of Te-Te-Texas, and th-th-the other two is E-E-EIi Perkins." VISITORS AT THE THOUSAND ISLANDS who desire to see Montreal and return by boat (their time being limited), the following information will be of interest. All passengers arrive in Montreal between six and seven o'cIock p. m., as there is little to see at night and very little time to see it in. The boat leaves her dock, Canal Basin, to return, every morn- ing at 9 o'clock except Sunday. You can remain in Montreal until the 12 m. train for Lachine from the G. T. R. Station, (by taking that train, fare 35 cents, you will arrive at Lachine in time to take the boat and enjoy your dinner while passing through Lake St. Louis). Should you desire to prolong your stay, remain in Montreal until the 5 p. m. train leaves same 52 depot for Coteau Landing. A carriage in waiting will take you to the boat, fare from Montreal, including carriage, $1.25. You will take passage from there at seven o'clock, and have your supper on board of boat while passing through Lake St. Francis. As it takes the boat sixteen hours longer to come back than to go down (reason they are compelled to pass through the Lachine, Bohomoise and Cornwall canals, which con- sumes the time) All passengers arrive at Alexandria Bay, every day, between one and two o'clock p. m., except on Monday. WHAT I KNOW ABOUT CATCHING FISH. During last summer I was at Alexandria Bay, N.Y., and took note of some of the best catches of fish, but I have not the space to record them. Let me say that anybody can catch fish of the following, varieties any- where in the St. Lawrence River : Rock bass, black bass, perch, pike, pickerel and muscalonge. I have caught, off the dock at the Bay, in less than two hours? a black bass weighing three and one-half pounds and a pickerel weighing over six pounds. The largest fish caught last season was a muscalonge, weight 38 lbs., caught at an Island opposite Rockport. A pike 7}^ pounds, black bass 5^ pounds, a pickerel 13 pounds. Several fishing parties out for one to three days brought in such enormous catches that if I mentioned them they would be called fish stories. Respectfully yours, E. F. BABBAGE. "I OWE YOU AN APOLOGY," Dear reader, because since the first edition of this work it has claimed that there no mosquitoes at Alexandria 53 Bay, but on at least three occasions when the wind was in a certain direction we were visited last year by at least a dozen or so. After a thorough search of three weeks, unable to find the cause, we were about to give it up when, to our astonishment, we discovered it. Upon looking up the hotel register we found that the hotel opened that year with twenty-seven guests, all from New Jersey. Comments are unnecessary. We found relief in attending Sunday School, and after the usual exercises were gone through with a collec- tion was to be taken for the poor. The teacher, desir- ing to show the aptness of the pupils, asked each one as he put his mite into the box to recite an appropri- ate verse from the Bible. The first lad said, '' The Lord loveih a cheerful giver," placed his mite in and took his seat. The second one said, " He that giveth to the poor lendeth unto the Lord," and proudly took his seat. The third boy, more worldly than the rest, remarked, "that a fool and his money soon parted." — He will sit down, if he can, at home. A REAL LIVE DUDE was at the Bay last season, and I must give him credit for one thing, if I could not for having either money or brains, but will say he was very attentive to the ladies, and it may be said to his credit, he never tried to cut me out. One fine morning he induced three of the nicest young ladies at the Bay to take a boat ride, and for the privilege of their company agreed to do the rowing himself. They had been out upon the water for some time, and he had done the rowing heroically, but, getting into the strong current, his physical development was being tested to its utmost, 54 when ho asked the young ladies "if it would not be heller tor him to hug the shore." After a pause of a minute, the girliest girl of the group exclaimed : " Well, if VvMi oan'l lind anvtliitig belter lo hug. do lor heaven's sake * hug ihe shore I ' " LOST HIS NAME. Hut he is the mosi venerable looking man I ever saw, and when I say hesiruek terror to the mind of the" Hall Hovs" and waiters at the Thousand Island House. More than one of them told me that he must be one of the patriari'hs of old. either Moses. Elias or Aaron, eome baok to earth looking Just as he left it. Said another, 1 was bound to ask him his age so as to see if it was or not one of those old fellows. I met him on the Ouebec boat, had a very pleasant chat with him, his name 1 have forgotten, but he is Editor of the Madison, Wis., /ournaL been a nieniber of Congress, and was travel- ing tor pleasure. E. B. WARREN, OF PHILADELPHIA, PA., with his wife and daughters, have in the past paid the St. Lawrence River manv visits, and been mentioned by me for their tish catches. Chie day in particular thev brought in and exhibited at the Th -'usand Island House, i8 small moutlied black bass weighing seven- tv-four pounds. Since the completion of " The Saga- more' on Green Island, and the building of an elegant cottage there, he stays at home, and I am contented with the old proverb, " Tho' lost to sight to memorv dear." E. G. GILMORE, New York's gn^atest Theatrical Manager, has enjoyed manv seasons of pleasure at Alexandria Bav. The 55 Inst liinc" I saw liiiu, he wauled to Uiiow how it woiiM do lor liiiu to hriiio liis whole corpse de hallel to the Idioiisand Islands lor a season's recnipcnition, tlon't yi)u tliink it would i(ive them vii^or, sik h o-ood bracinq- air as von have up there ? MESSRS. RAYMOND AND WHITCOMB, Atncriea's i;realt\sl i^'xcnrsion Al;(mi1s liave i)rol)al)lv brought more jx-ople to the St. Lawrence RIvcm, than hjivc come indirectly from the reading ol the several editions of my book that have been issued during the past seven years, vvhic:li is saying a great deal lor IJiem. I hope to have the plcsure of meeting more of their select pait ies during 1 111" coming season. The Ihiioil iVt'ft'.v exinirsion should not be forgotten, thev have been angel visits, however, lor the past two years. MR. AND MRS. CHAS. MAC EVOY, ol New^ York, have been visitors at the Thousand Islands many times. One season, witii a New N'ork friend, they caught the largest (^atch of black bass 1 ever saw brought in by amateurs; the same day. Dr. Sperry of tiie United Slates Hotel, Saratoga Springs, caught the largest muscalonge of the season. As the fishing is much better every year, on account of all illegal fishing with nets having been stopped, I hope to see them again at the Hay, as well as all other lovers of fishing. 56 THE NAMES OF THE INHABITED ISLANDS, POINTS AND COTTAGES In the American Channel of the river, alphabetically arranged : A Allegheny Point J. S. Laney. Arcadia and Ina S. A. Briggs. Alice Col. A. J. Casse. ' B Bergshire Hon. S. G. Pope. Bay Side H. B. Mosher. Bonny Eyrie Mrs. Peck. Bay View C. S. Lyman. Belle Island Rev. Walter Ayrault. Bella Vista Lodge Mrs. F. J. Bosworth. Bonnie Castle (Main Land) Mrs. J. G . Holland. Birch Island . . W. J. Lewis. c Covart J. C. Covart. Cloud Rest A. H. Greenwalt. Chillon A. H. Greenwalt. Calumet Chas. G. Emery. Cedar Island J.M.Curtis. Comfort Island A.E.Clark, Craig Side (Wells Island) .H. A. Laughlin. Crescent Cottages (Main Land) Bleecker Van Wagenen. D Devil's Oven H. R. Heath. Deshler Island W. G. Deshler. Deer Island Hon. S. Miller. Douglass Island Douglass Miller. Dinglespeil Joseph BabcQck. E Elephant Rock T . C. Chittenden. Easton, Stuyvesant, Cherry Island James E. Easton. Edgewood Park Edgewood Park Association. Edgewood Cottage G.C.Martin. Ella Island R. E. Hungerford. Excelsior Group C. S. Goodwin. F Frederick Island . . . C. L. Fredericks. Fisher's Landing Mrs.R.Gurnee & Miss Newton. Friendly E. W. Dewey. Florence Island H. S. Chandler. Felseneck Prof. A . G. Hopkins . Fern N. & J. Wilson. Fairy Land C. P., C. H. & W. B. Hayden. c ■ Governor's Island Hon. T. G. Alvord. Gun Island... .' H.H.Warner. Goose Island Mrs. Lottie Simonds. Gypsy Island J.M.Curtis, 57 H Helen's Island Mrs, O. G. Staples . Hemlock Hon . W. F. Porter and Wilson. Hub Island George W. Best. Holloway's Point. Nathan HoIIovvay. Harmony Mrs . C. Berger. Hub Clark Island Will Clark. Hart's Island Hon. E. K. Hart. Huguenot L. Hasbrouck. I Isle Helena Mrs. Helen S. Taylor. Isle of Pines Mrs. E. N. Robinson. Island Royal Royal E. Deane. Island Gracie Miss G. Fox. Ingleside (Clierry Island) G. B. Marsh. Imperial Island Mr. R. L. Singer. Island Mary : '. W. M. Palmer. IdlewiJd Mrs. R. A. Packer. J Jefferson Island E. P. Gardiner. Jolly Oaks (Wells Island) Prof. A. H. Brown and others. K Killien's Point Mr. J. Killien. Kit Grafton Mrs. S. L. George. L Little Calumet. Rev. H. R. Waite. Lone Pine Comstock & Co. Little Charm Island Mrs. F. W . Baker. Look Out Island Thos. H. Borden. Little Lehigh C. H. Cummings. Little Fraud R. Pease. Long Branch Mrs. C. E. Clark. Little Delight L.W.Morrison. Long Rock W.F.Wilson. Little Whortleberry Mrs. L. E. B. Brown. Lattimer Dr. C. E. Lattimer. Lindner's John Lindner. Louisiana Point Judge La Bait. Little Gem Mrs. V. Walton. Little Angel W. A. Angell. Linlithgow Hon. R. A. Livingston. Lily's Island . L, B. H. Morrison. M Maple Island Joseph Atwell. Miaium Rev W.W.Walsh. Melrose Lodge (Cherry Island). A.B.Pullman. Manhattan J.L. Hasbrouck, J. C. Spencer. Maple Island J.L. Hasbrouck. N Nemah-bin J. H. Oliphant. Nobby Island - H. R. Heath. Nett's Island , W. B. Hayden." o One Tree Island William Wright. Occident and Orient E. W. Washburn. Ours Island Mrs. M. Carter. 58 P Peel Island •. Mrs. S. P. Lake and others. Point Vivian R. T. Evans and others. Phoco Island A. C. Mc Intyre. Pullman Island George M. Pullman, Point Lookout (Wells Island) Miss L. J. BuUock. Picnic Island Westminster Park Association. Point Marguerite (Main Land) E. Anthony. Pike Island Frank F. Dickinson. Palisade Point A.J. Beckwith. Quartett Island Mrs. W. Eagan. R Rob Roy Island A. H. Greenvvralt. River Side Island James C. Lee. Resort Island W.J.Lewis, Round Island Baptist Association. s Schooner Island J.N. Whitehouse. Sunbeam Group Odd Fellows of Watertown. Spuyten Duyvel Alice P. Sargent. Summer-Land Summer-Land Association. Sunny-Side Island W, Stevenson. Seven. Isles Hon. Bradley Winslow. Sunny-Side (Cherry Island) .... Rev. George Rockwell. Safe Point (Wells Island) H.H.Warner. St. Elmo N. H. Hunt. Sun-Dew Island Chas. M, Slamm. St. John's Judge Dono.hue, Sport Island H. C. Wilber. T Two Islands, Eel Bay Dr. E. L. Sargent. Twin Islands I.L.Huntington. Throop Dock Dr. C. E. Lattimer and others. The Ledges Mrs. J. L. Hudson. Thousand Island Park Methodist Association. u Una Island Mrs. M. E. Steele. V Vanderbilt Island .. ..J.B.Hamilton. Vilula Island H. Sisson. w Walton Island J. N. & G. H. Robinson. West View Island Hon S. G. Pope. Welcome Island Hon S.G.Pope. Whortleberry Island Mrs. Etta Stillwell, Watch Island Mrs. Elizabeth Skinner. Waving Branches D. C. Graham and others. Wild Rose Hon. W. G. Rose. Warner Island H. H. Warner. Wau Winet C. E. Hill. West Point John Mathews. 59 FROM KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. The Mail Line, or Richelieu Co.'s boats, leave Kings- ton every morning at five o'clock. As we proceed down the river, a description of the city will be in order. Kingston has a population of 1,500; was founded in 1672, by Governor De Courcelles, receiving the name of Fort Cataraqui. Later, a massive stone fort was built by Count De Frontenac, and received his name. In 1762 the place was taken by the British, who gave it its present name. As a place of defense it stands next in strength to Quebec. The batteries of Fort Henry are calculated for the reception of numerous cannon and mortars of the largest calibre. These, together with neighboring martello towers, form a formidable defense against any aggressive movement which might be directed against the city. These fortifications are seen to excellent advantage from the steamer soon after it leaves the dock. On the right is Garden Island ; on the left. Cedar Island, and behind is Fort Henry. There is here, also, in view, the round stone towers referred to above. Near the middle of the river is Wolf, or Long Island, 21 miles long, and 7 miles wide near the western end. There is nothing either of romance or historical episode to weave into our story, concerning the inhabitants of this, the largest of the Thousand Island group. Suffice it to say, that the territory is a portion of the Dominion of Canada, and that the habits of civilized life characterize the people. Between one channel and the main land there is St. John's or Howe Island, of no mean proportions. 6o Ordinarily, we have now spent about one hour on the steamer from Kingston, and come to the point in in the channel where we must diverge either for Gananoque or Clayton. We are bound for Clayton and the American channel of the St. Lawrence River. (For descripton of Gananoque and the Canadian channel, see Route of the Island Wanderer, page 40.) As soon as the light-house on Burnt Island comes in view, we may be said to have fairly entered upon the real beauty of the " sacred river of America." Between here and Gananoque we pass many pretty little isles of six or eight acres. On the right is a range light, the boat, of course, passing between the two. It is said that from the deck of the steamer, one hundred islands can be counted — in fact, the panorama is probably matchless on the globe. While the islands are so numerous both on the right and left, the boat glides by without allowing the tourist to be distracted with the rapture of delight that is feasting his eyes. Some of these isles are scarcely more that barren rocks, while others are paradises of verdure. The time is early morning, the sun quite bright, and the atmosphere remarkably clear. The scene is now attractive. Look ahead in the distance a little to the left, and you will behold the eagle tree. Hundreds have been deceived with the idea that it was an actual live eagle, spreading its wings and soaring aloft to a height that the imagination can scarcely reach. It is a delusion; 'tis nothing but a tree, as its true features, or rather beautiful foilage, has deceived the eye of the novice of this region. On the left is Grindstone Island. On it is an organ- ized community. The inhabitants are farmers, and for 6i the education of whose children a school is main- tained. On the right is Clayton. It may be well to state here that authorities (?) differ as to how many Islands there really are. Some say fifteen hundred ; some eighteen hundred, and others carefully write, nearly two thousand. Life is too short for us to stop and count these natural beauties, and even the pilots have no desire to win fame as statisticians by asserting the correct number. The "Phat Boy" has just issued the only correct map of the St. Lawrence River published, which will not be misleading to the student of the minute details. But we digress. CAPE VINCENT is a pleasant little village in Jefferson county, N. Y., at the junction of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. It is also the terminus of the Rome, Water- town and Ogdensburg Railroad, and connections by Steamer St. Lawrence are made to Alexandria Bay. Connections are made to Kingston by Steamer Maud. Let us here describe the American channel from Cape Vincent. As we steam out of this port, on the left is Long, or Wolf Island, 21 miles in length and 7 miles in width. The next on the right is CARLETON ISLAND. At the upper extremity the land narrows into a rugged promontory, ending in a bluff sixty feet in height. Here, lifting their ruined heads aloft, and plainly visible to all passers along the river, stand a number of toppling and half ruined chimneys. These 62 may be seen for miles around. So long have these old sentinels watched over the scenes around them that their history is lost in the misty past. Around them are the remaining ruins of an old fort, supposed by many to be the ruins of old Fort Frontenac. Around its old redoubts and parapets linger anti- quated historical legends and traditions enough to fill a volume, and forming an interesting study. An ancient well, cut in the solid Trenton Limestone down to the level of the lake, has been converted by the reckless imaginations of the natives into a receptacle of the golden doubloons which the French soldiers upon evb.cuating the old fort, are said to have thrown there, with the brass guns on top of them. Upon either side and immediately in front of the bluff upon which the old fort stands, is a quiet, pretty little bay, which may once have supplied a safe and easy anchor- age for the vessels that lay under its protecting guns. The fortress is supposed to have been one of impor- tance as a military post at some time, having been built upon an excellent plan and in the most substan- tial manner. Numbers of graves still occupy a field near by, the remains of the brave soldiers who once occupied the fort. The scene is of deep interest to the student of history. About six miles this side of Clayton is Lindsay Island, the only one on the right between Cape Vin- cent and Clayton. CLAYTON is in the American channel. In the distant front, just before landing, we have a magnificent view of Prospect Park and hill, a delightful spot for recrea- 63 tion and pleasure. No better view can be had of the islands and surrounding country than from the emi- nence of the hill. Clayton is our first stopping place. It is a village that derives its importance to tourists as being the terminus of the R., W. & O. R. R., Utica and Black River Division, and here it is where passengers from the East generally get their first glimpse of the St. Lawrence. There are three good hotels, the Hubbard, Walton and the West End ; kept by as genial landlords as ever lived, and from the town many fishing parties go out daily. The steamer St. Lawrence runs from this port in con- nection with the above named railroads to Alexandria Bay and other landing places en route. Opposite Clayton, on the left, as we proceed down the river, is Governor Island, owned by Hon. Thomas G. Alvord, of Syracuse. Next to Gov. Alvord's Isle, on the left, is Calumet, five acres, owned by Chas. G. Emery, of Old Judge cigarette and tobacco fame, w^ho has lav- ishly expended a large amount of money for comfort. His villa and apartments are quite striking, having i,ooo feet of dockage and a stone wall all around the island, 4,300 feet — the only island having an elevation of 35 feet and a perfect soil, all productive. He pur- chased the steam yacht Calumet, said to be the fastest yacht on the river. The next island on the left, about 200 yards distant, is Powder Horn. The origin of this " euphonious" name has not been handed down by tradition. On the right is Washington Island ; on the left, nearly opposite, is Bluff Island, behind which is Robin's Island. Next, on the right, over two miles from Clayton, is 64 ROUND ISLAND and park. This is the property of the Baptist Asso- ciation, and every year people of this persuasion in large numbers, gather for religious worship and recreation. There is a temperance hotel, fitted up with the modern appointments, for the accommoda- tion of 300 guests, named the Round Island House. The docks are in excellent condition, and the fishing boats are favorites. On the left is Little Round Island and " Hog's Back." We have now several cottages in view; the one painted dark brown is owned by Mr. Harbodle. On the point is Ethelridge cottage, and many others not known to me, as they spring up as quickly as mushrooms do in an open field. Leaving Round Island, and looking in the distant front, we have a view of the Thousand Island Park. About one mile from Round Island, on the right, is Watch Island or " Indolence," owned by S. T. Skin- ner. On the left are Bluff, Maple and Hemlock, the three pretty islands fronting the foot of Grindstone Island. On Hemlock is the Clift House, owned by Mr. Garrison, of Syracuse. About five minutes after leaving Round Island, we come on the left in sight of Hub Island. A large hotel, the Hub House, occupied this site, but was burned in March, 1884; Grinneli's Island and House ; Otsego Camp is also on the left. On the right is Fisher's landing, Robinson's Island, owned by Eugene Robinson, New York, banker and broker, (he broke Drew). This island was purchased last year by W. C. McCord, of New York. Johnson's Light, Washburn Island and Frederick Island. Mr. 65 Johnson, the original light-house keeper, and after whom the island is named, was the man who burned the Robert Peel, the English vessel, in retaliation for sending the Caroline over Niagara Falls. Just before landing at Thousand Island Park, upper end of Wells Island, now called Wellesley Island, is Twin Island, owned by J. L. Huntington. On the left, and in connection with the Thousand Island Park, is the bath house, (in a dilapidated condition), where the Methodists can get baptism, a la Bob Ingersoll, with soap. Said to be good for this world, if not hereafter. We now land at THOUSAND ISLAND PARK. The boat stops at the western end of Wells Island, at a fine wharf and close to a large number of hand- some cottages. You can tell what the place is the moment you approach it. There is no mistaking a Methodist Summer Camp, find it where you will. It is always neat and clean and orderly. This is the Thousand Island Park, a Methodist resort, opened in 1873. Although the scenery is somewhat marred by the great number of solemn-faced clergymen strolling about the grounds, it is still one of the most beautiful spots to be found among the islands. Camp-meet- ings are held here ; also Sunday school and temper- ance and educational conventions, and other meetings all through the summer. A large and spacious hotel was opened July loth 1883. The name was originally Thousand Island Camp Ground, but was changed in 1878 to its present name. Again on our way, the first house on the left is owned by Harlow J. Remington, of Ilion, N. Y., 66 whose fame and fortune are in rifles. Next on the left is Wellesley House and beautiful cottage. On the left, handsome villas line the shore of the island. About half a mile from Fine View House is Jolly Oak Point, with its four cottages, two owned by the Nor- ton brothers, a third by Dr Ferguson, and the fourth by Hon. W. W. Butterfield, of Redwood. From here to Lookout Point is about half a mile ; and next is Rood's place, with a fine dock and good accommo- dations for tourists. About two hundred yards below is Peel's dock, where the boat Robert Peel was burned in 1837. This dock was rebuilt in 1884. Robbin's cottage, one hundred feet to the left, is Island Blanch owned by E. D. Buckingham ; a little below on the right is the farm of Captain Jack; you can see the old saw-mill in a dilapidated condition on the bank. Opposite on the left is the celebrated Limburger cheese factory. (Post mortem examinations held here weekly.) (This "goak " would take better if you was just introduced to Limburger for the first time.) On the right is Collins' dock ; below a few feet is Calumet Island and cottage, owned by Rev. Henry G. Waite, of Ilion, N. Y. On the right lies the remains of old Captain Jack's Boat, gone to rest. * * * * Here you are expected to drop a tear. Brown's Bay on the left and Swan Bay on the right. The next island on the right is owned by Mr. Moffet, of Watertown, N. Y. Passing the bays, we come on the right to Central Park, formerly Grinnell's Point and parade ground, purchased by parties and laid out for a park. Several large and beautiful cottages were built last season and many contemplated for this sea- son. On the left opposite on the bluff, is Hill's Crest, 67 owned by General Shields, of Philadelphia, Pa. Foot of Central Park is Page Point, a former wood station for the N. T. Co.'s line of steamers. On the right is POINT VIVIAN. Point Vivian is situated on the main shore of the St. Lawrence River, about two and one-half miles from Alexandria Bay. It was formerly owned by Captain W. H. Houghton, and was purchased by Messrs. George Ivers, John J. Kinney, Isaac A. Wood, Dr. L. E. Jones, R. Barnes, Rezot Tozer and E. Hungerford, in the fall of 1877 (all- of Evans Mills, N. Y), They had it surveyed into forty building lots, with parks, avenues and streets. A magnificent dock was built two hundred feet long, and any boat, from a skiff to an ocean steamer, can land here. Opposite Point Vivian on the left is Island Royal, owned by Royal E. Deane, of New York, firm of Bramall, Deane & Co. Mr. Deane is a very enthusiastic lover of the scenery as well as the hunting and fish- ing in this vicinity, coming to this, his summer home, quite early in the spring, and often remaining until winter fairly sets in, for nowhere else can he get such a variety of fish and game and have the surroundings so agreeable. Next on the left is Shady Covert, owned by Editor J. C. Covert, of tlie Cleveland Leader. After leaving Point Vivian, on the right is Curtis Point and cottage, which joins Rose Island by a bridge. Here is where ex-Mayor W. G. Rose, of Cleveland, O., enjoys his summers. The next is Alleghany Point, owned by J. S. Laney, of Pittsburg, Pa. The fence was built to keep the children from 68 falling into the river. Opposite on the left is Seven Isles owned by Gen. Bradley Winslow. Next on the right is Keppler Point, Bella Vista Lodge, owned by F. A. Bosworth, of Milwaukee, Wis This property, Bella Vista Lodge, was sold last year to Mr. , of Cleveland, O. Centennial, now Nah-Mahbin, meaning Twin Island or Lakes, is owned by Mr. J. H. Oliphant, of Brooklyn, N. Y. Comfort, in close proximity, is owned by A. S. Clark, of the Chicago, 111., Board of Trade. His is the largest and finest cottage of the group. Next is H. H. Warner's Island, upon which $20,000 has been expended in the erection of his new cottage. Beyond is Hill's Island, also Devil's Rock and Oven. This gentleman has expended a large amount of money in building a stone wall around the same, and in many ways beautifying the surroundings. Beyond is Louisiana Point, owned by Judge La Batte, of New Orleans. Next on the left is Crag's Nest, owned by H. A. Laughlin, of Pittsburg, Pa On the right is Cuba Isle, owned by W. F. Storey, of Buffalo, N. Y. Next on the right is Chevey Island, the first cottage is owned by Rev. Rockwell. Next is Easton's Villa Stuyvesant. Next Rev. A. B. Pullman, and at the point C. B. Marsh, of Chicago, 111. A little further on is Edgewood Park, owned by a Cleveland stock company, who erected an elegant hotel to be opened this year, and contem- plate many changes the coming season ; also Edge- wood Cottage, owned by G. C. Martin, of Watertown, N. Y. Next on the right is Cherry Isle, upon which are erected several cottages; one is owned by Rev. George Rockwell, of Fulton, N.Y.; and J.W. Easton's villa, of Brooklyn, N. Y. Last season Mr. Easton, of 69 Brooklyn, erected a handsome villa, which he occu- pied during the season. The two large cottages are owned by A. B. Pullman and G. B. Marsh, of Chi- cago, 111.— named Ingleside and Melrose Lodge. Here the Hon. John A. Logan and wife were enter- tained for several days in 1885. Opposite, on the left, is Pullman, Nobby, Friendly, St. Elmo, Welcome, Florence, Imperial and Linlith Gow. This group may be seen in the order gis^en; beyond is West- minster Park, Hart's Island, Fairy Land and Dishler. We now shoot into. ALEXANDRIA BAY, which is three or four miles long and one and a half miles wide, reaching from the shore, on the American side, to Wells' Island. The chief feature around here is the grand hotels— the largest known as the •Thousand Island House, the finest building on the St. Lawrence River, which for the past five years, under the management of R. H. Southgate, Esq., and his able corps of assistants, Fred W. Lee, Harry Dowd, George Lee and Wm. T. Price, has been a grand success. The wet goods department is under the charge of Mr. John Brophy. Your slightest wish will be gratified, and you will be better pleased this year than ever before. From the bay fishing parties are constantly going out. The channels about the islands are the Paradise of fisher- men. The boats are the most convenient and comfort- able in the world, the boatmen the most accommo- dating, and the pickerel, pike and gamy black and rock bass and muscalonge, in the greatest abundance. 70 WESTMINSTER PARK. Opposite the Thousand Island House is Westmin- ster Park, on the lower end of Wells Island. This island is eight miles long and from three to four miles wide. On the other side of this island is the Cana- dian channel of the river, about half a mile wide. The lower end of the island is separated into two parts by one of the prettiest sheets of water that ever rippled against the bows of a canoe. This is called the " Lake of the Island," and it is connected with the river on both the American and Canadian sides by a narrow channel. The lake is five or six miles long, as smooth as glass, and is altogether too pretty and too romantic to attempt a description. Westminster Park was bought in 1874 by a Presby- terian stock company, and it now has about 15 miles of drives and some fine buildings. It has two long water fronts — one on the American side of the river and the other on the Lake of the Island, on the Cana- dian side. There is a high hill on the island called Mount Beulah, though after climbing it I think the Hill Difficulty would be a more appropriate name. There is a large chapel on the top of the hill, known as Bethune Chapel, with seating accommodations for a thousand persons, and with a tower 136 feet high, (was blown down in March, 1885), affording a beautiful view of the river and the islands. The name of the chapel recalls the fact that the late Rev. Dr. Geo. W. Bethune was the pioneer tourist through this region, and until his death continued to come here summer after summer for recreation. 71 AMONG THE ISLANDS. It must not be supposed that these hundreds of islands are all occupied and have cottages on them, or laid out with walks and fountains. For every island that has a house on it there are perhaps twenty that have none. The number of houses are increasing every year, and I think that in time nearly every island will be occupied in the Canadian channel as they are in the American. GANANOQUE. Here the captain announces a stay of twenty-five minutes for refreshments, remarking, also, that it takes twelve minutes to walk up town and twelve minutes back, with the remainder for refresh, which seems to my mind a little too fresh. Leaving Gananoque on time, we will return by the Canadian channel, which is more wild and picturesque, as far as scenery is concerned, although not one island or point is inhabited here to ten in the American channel. On the right is Kipp Island. Passing many beautiful islands and lighthouse, we arrive at Halstead's Bay — after passing which the islands come thick and fast, all sizes and shapes, from a little one for a cent to those done up in bunches, like asparagus, and you get a bunch for five. We pass very close to Ash Island, so near that moss has been plucked by pas- sengers on the boat. We soon arrive at Lind Light, on the right, and are coming to Uie Fiddler's Elbow. Lay this book aside at this point and feast the eye, for no writer could do the subject of a description justice. The King of Dwarfs, Gen. Tom Thumb, was 72 a passenger on the Wanderer one day when he asked the captain why he could not have an island. The captain, with his usual generosity, gave him one just 'his size, and to commemorate the event has placed a monument there to his memory. We soon emerge from our land, or island-locked channel, and approach Darling's Dock. The dock is visible, but we have never seen the darling — after which comes Echo Point, where you can hear as many echos as you pay cents fare. Passing a farm-house on the right, we soon arrive on the left to Rockport; here you will observe we have but two seasons of the year, Ice and Rock; this is the rocky season. Turning to the right, we make direct for Westminster Park. Looking backward over the left shoulder, you will have a view of Idlewild and Sport Islands, owned by the Packers, of Pennsylvania. A better view of those islands may be obtained after leaving Westminster Park for Alexandria Bay. After passing the point, Hayden's Island, Fairyland comes in view. The little island, with cottage, is owned by Mr. Hasbrock, of Ogdens- burg, N. Y., called Pike Island. The next on the right is St. John's Island, owned by Judge Donahue, of New York. The next on the right is Manhattan group, owned by Judge Spencer and Hasbrock, of New York. A wooden bridge joins them together. This is the first island inhabited for recreation, and was bought by Seth Green, the fish culturist of New York State; on the left is Long Beach, Anthony's Point (the Ledges owned by C. J. Hudson, of New York) and Bonnie Castle; on the right is Dishler and Hart's Island. We next arrive at Alexandria Bay, from which we started most four hours ago. 73 BONNIE CASTLE. "Timothy Titcomb" (Dr. J. G. Holland, editor of Scril)?ier's Monthly), chose this point as a haven of rest and recuperation, and who does not commend his choice? It will be remembered that he died in New York shortly after leaving his cherished Bonnie Castle in 1881, for his arduous winter's labors. Next is The Ledges, owned by C. J. Hudson, of New York. Light house in the distance. A LETTER FROM SETH GREEN. NEW YORK STATE FISHERY COMMISSION, ) Office of the Superintendent, Rochester, N. Y., March 20th. f My Dear Little "Phat Boy": You request of me a letter for your book. Letter writing is not my forte, but you are welcome to use these facts. In 1855 I bought an island near Alexan- dria Bay, built houses upon it in the fall and moved there with my family the next spring, and lived there during the summers of 1856 and 1857. The year of 1858 I spent a part of the season with a party of prom- inent gentlemen. During the time I was there, if I wanted black bass for breakfast I could take my two fly rods and take from five to ten black bass, by troll- ing around my island of four acres, and at any time after August ist, I could take my gun and kill a mess of ducks in a short time. There was a few deer on Welles Island then. I have killed fifty ducks in one day among the islands and I could take 100 black bas? with fly any day I wished. 74 LEAVING ALEXANDRIA BAY. Immediately opposite is Hart's Island, back of which is Deshler. Next on the left is MANHATTAN, the first island on which habitation was attempted. It was bought by Mr. Seth Green, the fish culturist of N. Y., in 1855. Hg built a cottage upon it and for several years spent his summers here. Mr. J. L. Has- brouck and Judge J. C. Spencer, of New York, pur- chased it from him. They have spent $15,000 upon the island. The original cottages built by Seth Green still remain and are used by them as dining room, etc. Between Deshler and Manhattan, looking back- ward, is Fairyland, owned by C. H. and W. B. Hay- den, of Columbus, Ohio. This is really one of the finest islands in the river. At a vast expense art Was triumphed over nature, transforming a barren into the loveliest of green lawns. Next on the left is Deer Island ; then SUMMERLAND. Summerland, one of the most beautiful of the "Thousand Islands," is located mid-way between the north and south channels of the St. Lawrence, about three miles below Alexandria Bay, having an area of fourteen acres, and is the largest of the " Summer- land group,'' which includes " Idlewild," "Sport," "Ida," and "Arcadia." The island is covered with a dense forest (furnishing an abundance of shade) and 75 is said to have the finest groves on the river. At the extreme northerly and southerly ends of the island there are extensive sandy beaches, a great rarity in this locality, which are used by the ** Summerlanders " for bathing purposes. The island is traversed from end to end by a most delightful natural avenue, densely shaded and lined on either side with a thick undergrowth of wild flowers and ferns. The island is owned by the Summerland Association, a corpora- tion organized under and by virtue of the laws of the State of New York. Between Deer Island and Summerland is Cedar; back of Cedar is Sport, owned by the estate of H. A. Packer, who died in 1884. The island, however, will be occupied this year by H. C. Wilbur, G. B. Linder- man, C. B. Newton and other friends. Anthony Point is on the right. Also The Ledges, owned by J. C. Hudson, of New York. This place is the resort of E. and T. H. Anthony, the extensive dealers in photographic goods in New York. Still continuing our course, looking to the right, is the cottage of Mrs. Clark, of Watertown. Next, Goose Bay is the island owned by Dr. Carleton, near which is the Three Sisters' Island; before the Three Sisters' is Hume's Island. Next, on the left, is Whiskey Island, and on the right opposite are a number of large and small islands, the names of which we will not weary the tourist's brain with. Goose Bay is really beautiful, if its name is slightly homely. It is studded with islands, and fishing abounds. It is here that Mr. Flubert R. Clark, of New York, in one day caught some 300 pounds of black 76 bass, ranging in weight from i^ pounds to 6}^ pounds. On the right is Lyon's dock and Meeker's island. Next, on the left is Three Sisters Light ; in the distance is Lone Star, or Dark Island; Island No. lo, it is called by some. After passing, on the left is a small cluster of island shoals. On the right is Chippewa Bay. This is a superb sheet of water, where the fishing is a marked feature. It is a favorite resort of Ogdensburg people, who occupy the contiguous islands. All around the shore are camps, cottages, etc., and make an animated scene for the tourist. Three miles from Chippewa Bay on the left is Cross- over light ; thence, three miles to Cole's light on the left, where we enter the Canadain channel. Nine miles in the distance is Brockville. On the right opposite Cole's light is Oak point. Four miles below is Allen's landing, a very popular place for picnics, etc. On the left, a prominent bluff. On the right for six miles the islands come thick and fast; huge rocks rise from the water's surface, with very little vegetation or foliage, and the boat makes her way rapidly among them, winding around like a snake, heading for all the points of the compass, frequently getting herself into coves and bays that apparently have no outlet, but always finding a channel, and sailing triumphantly out into the broad waters again. A little beyond is St. Lawrence Park, used for pleasure and picnic parties, especially by our Canadian friends of Brockville. We are now at the village of Brockville. In front of Brockville are the last three of the Thousand Islands ; being some distance from the rest, 77 it is presumable they drifted away, and fianlly rooted here. This, however, was " long befo' de wah I " Opposite, on the right, is Morristown, a small, lively American village, of about i,ooo inhabitants, a station on the Utica and Black River R. R., connects with Brockville by two steam ferries. BROCKVILLE was named in honor of General Brock, who fell in the battle of Queenstown Heights in 1812. It is situated on the Canadian side of the St. Lawrence River, and is one of the pleasantest villages in the Province. It lies at the foot of the Thousand Islands on an elevation of land which rises from the river in a succession of ridges. The town was laid out in 1802, and is now a place of considerable importance. The present population is about 7,000. After leaving the wharf, the boat passes the most beautiful cliff on the river, the Palisades of the St. Lawrence, on which are erected magnificent mansions and suburban residences and villages of Canada's distinguished sons. The most prominent of these is the son of Sir Hugh Allen, whose residence is really superb. The sightseer can observe the winding stairs, boat and bath houses and other appointments for recreation. Having left Brockville, a magnificent view greets the eye; islands are not now in view; the river is a most beautiful sheet of water, running perfectly straight for about sixteen miles with the land on either side in good view, for the river is a little over 78 two miles wide. Three miles from Morristown, on the right, is a camp ground of the Baptist persuasion, mostly from St. Lawrence County. Five miles on the left from Brockville is Maitland. At this point is a prominent object known as the old distillery, whose proprietor is said to have been worth, at one time, a million dollars, but whose cupidity during "America's unpleasantness" led him into selling "crooked whiskey," or rather disposing of his dis- tillery products in a very "crooked" way. Without going into the details, the facts in brief are: He antagonized the Canadian government in the matter of paying revenue, and in his fight for stupid supremacy, he not only lost his distillery, but his fortune too, and he and his family became reduced to poverty, and none of them remain around their former home. It is said he first induced his niece to marry the revenue collector of the district, that he might carry on the nefarious business in collusion and without detection, but, you see, " The deep laid plans of mice and men gang aft aglee." About four miles below, on the left, is the old blue stone church, in the graveyard of which rests the remains of the founder of Methodism on this conti- nent, Barbara Heck. One mile farther, on the left, is McCarthy's new brick brewery. Half a mile beyond is the celebrated Rysdick stock farm, owned by J. P. Wiser, M. P. Here is owned the celebrated stallion Rysdick, which cost Mr. Wiser $25,000. It is a farm of about six hundred acres, and is unquestionably the finest stock farm in the Dominion of Canada. The thrift, energy and ability of this gentleman will not be wondered at when it is learned that he is of 79 American birth. Next, on the left, is the celebrated Labatt's brewery and PRESCOTT, with its 3,000 inhabitants, who seem to have lost their grip on the trade of the river, judging from the dilapidated condition of the stores, warehouses, etc., on the wharves. The town, however, is handsomely- laid out, has a fine city hall and market, and there are many fine private residences. It is connected with Ottawa, capital of the Dominion, by the St, Lawrence and Ottawa Railroad, distance 54 miles. Here many tourists who desire to visit the capital disembark for that purpose. We refer the tourist to Daniels' hotel as a good stopping place. L. H. Daniels has taken the hotel and spent $8,000 in improvements; he is too well known to the traveling public to need any praise from me. Opposite is OGDENSBURG, founded by Francis Picquit in May, 1749- It now contains about 10,000 people, and of course ranks as a city. It is the terminus of the Rome and Water- town, Utica and Black River, and the Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain railroads. It is beautifully laid out, well planted with maple trees, and is called the " Maple City." It has a United States Custom House, post-office, and a new opera house, costing 1150,000, six fine church edifices, water works, gas works, a fire alarm telegraph and two daily news- papers, and possibly other modern improvements. At the lower end of town is the big elevator of the Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain Railroad, 8o ' One mile and a half below Prescott, on the left, is Windmill Point ; the old windmill has been turned into a lighthouse. Here, in 1837, the ''Patriots," under Von Schultz, a Polish exile, established them- selves, but from which they were driven with severe loss. We believe this Von Schultz was subsequently hung by the Canadian authorities, and his followers banished, probably to New Jersey. On the left, a little below the lighthouse, is the residence and farm of W. H. McGannon, the oldest pilot on the St. Law- rence river, the man who first took the Passport, of the Richelieu line, down the Long Sault Rapids, in July, 1847. I 3^ni also indebted to him for the correct- ness of my New Map of the St. Lawrence and other information of benefit to me and the public. Three miles below, on the left, is Johnstown Bay, with Johnstown — not a very important trading post — overlooking. This place has a custom house officer, commissioner of fisheries, mayor and marshal of the district ; but these important officials are concentrated in one man. We turn here to the right, leaving the far-famed Chimney Island on the left, on which are said to be the ruins of old French forts, battlements, etc. The only remains we have. discovered of these supposed formidable defences is an extensive moat around the island, twelve feet deep, filled with water. The chimney, from which it derives its name, is supposed to be on the island, but we have looked in vain to discover it. It may be, however, that it has floated down the river ; we will speak of it further on. In the distance, on the left, are Tick, or Pier Islands. Some ot the finest bass fishing in the river 8r is off this old pier. Dr. Melville, of Prescott, the inventor of rheumatic victor, and an enthusiastic fisherman of this section, last summer caught a black bass weighing seven and one-half pounds while enjoying the sport around the pier. Three miles from Chimney Island, in the distance, is what is termed "the cut," forming the channel between Galop and Moore's islands. It was the former channel of this line of boats, but the Dominion government is expending six million of dollars for the enlargement of the canals of this route, and the survey party at present are blasting a channel through the GALOP RAPID, which may be seen in the distance. The reason of the change of channel is formed with an edict of the pilots not to interfere with the work of the engineer corps engaged on this necessary improvement of excavating a fifteen foot channel, to allow larger boats to pass, and dispense with the use of the Edwardsburg canal. This is the first and smallest rapid on the St. Lawrence River, and as the Phat Boy has termed it, "a little one for a cent." I will, how- ever, give you an idea of what the rapids are. All the rapids on this river are caused by numerous rocks, large and small, in the bed of the river, and the swift current of water passing over these rocks causes the fearful commotion that you observe. Now, to carry our philosophy a little farther, we say the larger the rock and the stronger the current, the better the rapids. No rocks, no water, no current, no rapids ! This commotion which you see here is caused by a ledge of rocks five and one-half feet in height under nine feet of water. You can see the swell and white cap which this rock occasions, and then use your best judgment to determine the height of the rocks in Long Sault, where we hope to arrive at one o'clock. (There are, let me state here, eight rapids on our trip to-day, which may be divided into two classes, first and second. The first class are Long Sault, meaning a long leap or jump; Cedar, deriving its name from the trees in the vicinity, and Lachine. The second class are Galop, meaning a hopping, jumping rapid ; Rapid Piatt, meaning in French, flat ; Chateau du Lac, meaning foot of the Lake ; Split Rocks, derived from a fissure which makes the channel, and the Cascade, from its resemblance to a cascade.) On the left, before arriving at the Galop rapids, is the entrance to the Edwardsburg canal. This canal is seven and one-half miles in length, and is the first canal we arrive at ; its terminus is at Iroquois. It would be well here to say that we only have canals around the rapids, or where the current is too strong for a steamer to ascend. We here append a tabular statement of the ST. LAWRENCE CANALS. Edwardsburg canal, 7}^ miles long, three locks, 14 feet fall in the river; Morrisburg canal, 4 miles long, 2 locks, iij^ feet fall ; Farron's Point canal, % mile long, I lock, 4 feet fall ; Cornwall canal, 12 miles long, 7 locks, 48 feet fall ; Beauharnor's canal, ii>^ miles long, 9 locks, S-i feet fall; Lachine canal, 9 miles long, 5 locks, 45 feet fall. In the distance, on the left, is the village of Edwards- burg, now called Cardinal. Here is located the 83 Edwardsburg starch factory, the largest in the Dominion of Canada. The president of the company is the Hon. Walter Shanley, of Hoosac Tunnel fame. He was the great contractor who completed that wonderful piece of work, and is now manager of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railroad. Twenty minutes from Edwardsburg to the next point of interest. Distinguished among Indian names is that of Iroquois. Here it names a village, formerly known as Matilda; but, like all other good Matildas do, she changed her name to Iroquois, in order to preserve the name. The Iroquois Indians formerly owned this section of country. One and a half miles below this village, is the narrowest point in the St. Lawrence River, from Kingston to the gulf. This broad expanse of water we are just passing, and the one we arrive at iaimediately after leaving the point, are very shallow, consequently holds the water in check at the point — the depth of water in the shallow places being about 2 2 feet, while at the point it is 84 feet. Width of the river 1,140 feet— 170 feet less than a quarter of a mile. On the right in the narrowest portion of the river is Cedar Point. On the left is a small bluff, formerly called Hemlock Point, on account of a fine hemlock standing there ; but on one fine morning the hemlock, the tree and the point all slid into the river, and have not yet returned. About fifteen feet back from the point is a rail fence, which is outside of the earth- works that were thrown up in 181 2-13, and batteries were erected on Cedar Point. On the left is the main shore of the Dominion of ^^4 Canada, with a population of over five millions. On the rio^ht is the main shore of the United States of America, with a population of over fifty millions. When the five millions want those fifty millions all they will be obliged to do is to walk over and take them. Then will be verified that beautiful passage in Holy Writ which says, "One shall chase a thousand and two put ten thousand to tlight. " Sing ! This was really a strong point, and was fortified on both sides of the river by the opposing parties. From the fact of the successful fortifications by the Ameri- cans the Rideau Canal owes its orioin. Guns and stores or merchandise could not be taken up the river. It was conceived by Ct)lonel By, of the engineer corps, that a new canal would obviate the ditliculty, and all his resources were immediately put into requisition, and the canal was completed at a cost of $5,000,000. It extends from Ottawa, formerly By-town, to Kings- ton, and is still in use. Ten minutes from here to the next point of interest. On the left is the entrance to the Morrisbug Canal, the second canal in the chain, but it is not used by this line of boats. All tows and sailing vessels have to vise the canals. In the distance front is Rapid Piatt; on the right is Ogden's Island, the finest wooded island in the St. Lawrence River. Beyond is Wad- dington, St. Lawrence county, N.Y. In front is this rapid we have just named ; it is the second one, and is ''a little one for two cents." It has, however, eight feet more descent than the first, but is only a one cent descenter rapid. 85 MORRISBURG. After passing the point, Morrisburg conies into view on the left — the prettiest villac^e in tlie Dominion of Canada. Look at its cliiirches, public buildings, private residences, and hotels (the St. Lawrence Hall is kept by W. TL McGannon & Brother, and I can say cheerfully no better hotel in town), that greet the eye, for we are still in the Province of Ontario. At half past three o'clock we enter the Province of Quebec. You will have a good chance then to com- pare the ditlerence between the two Provinces. Your especial attention is called to this now, that you may be prepared to scan the change you will not fail to observe. Before reaching Morrisburg is Doran's Island, which was rented by Mr. C)/ Doran of I lie St. Regis Indians for one dollar per year, and they come every year 60 miles to collect one dollar. A railroad bridge was to have been completed at this point during the present year. Opposite Morrisburg is Dry Island, used for picpics, etc. One hour from this point to the Long Sault Rapids. We speak of this here, for it is about dinner time, and if you ai'e lucky enough to secure a seat at the first table you will lose no point of interest, for it is presumable you will finish within the hour. THE CUISINE ON THE BOAT. It will not be amiss here to state that the meals were formerly served on the American plan, in the upper saloon, and to give you but a faint idea of the commotion created by the passengers when thei*e was one more person on board than seats at the table, 86 would require a volume ten times this size to describe. Therefore, please excuse me if I relate by v^^ay of illustration what an eminent writer said on the sub- ject: "The waiters, like little puppets, would bob up serenely at any time and place, drop a dish or what- ever the hand contained, and were as soon out of sight. This continued for about one hour, while we were seated back against the cabin wall, with just space enough for the waiter to pass between us and the table. When the signal was given everybody made a rush for the table, and if the scene depicted could only be described humorously or otherwise, I would like to read it." But the writer said it reminded him of the famous picture in her Majesty's gallery, '' The Rape of the Sabines." (I have never seen the picture, but presume it is that of a beautiful female poised as a central figure, and about ten soldiers ready to embrace her on a given signal.) Things have changed, however, and this season the meals will be served on the American plan, run by the com- pany, who have secured the best stewards, etc., to superintend the service, to the end that everyone may be pleased. The upper saloon will not be used, but what was formerly known as the ladies' cabin, and the cabin below, has been refitted, containing ample table room for everybody, and will be the dining rooms; there have also been added a new kitchen, steam tables, etc., which gives the whole saloon as a promenade and place of repose and rest for the pas- sengers. I am positive the change will be acceptable. About a mile pelow Morrisburg, on the right, is Gooseneck Island, so called from its resemblance to to the neck of a goose; the upper end is the neck; 87 the narrative is about nine miles long. Five miles from Morrisburg to CHRYSLER'S FARM, memorable for the battle fought on this ground in the year 1813. The Americans were the attacking party on this occasion, having arisen early in the morning, crossed the river into the little bay, landed, and imme- diately go^e into the contest by attacking the little house. The fight was desperate, lasting until eleven o'clock, when the Americans, under General Williams, were repulsed with great slaughter. The house was completely riddled with bullets. It has since been torn down and the chimney left as a monument to the battle. They retreated in good order, re-crossed the river and remained, having abandoned the trip to Montreal, which they intended. I draw this mild, because I am one of " God's people" myself. Next in interest is Farron's Point, opposite which is Croyl's Island. Six minutes from here to Long Sault Rapids ; we pass on the left Harrison's Landing. LONG SAULT ISLAND. At this point there are really two channels, the American channel being on the right of Long Sault Island, the rapids forming the Canadian channel, and are on the left of the island. The distinguishing feature about tlie American channel is, while it is swift in current, it has no rapids worthy of note, and the channel is used for tows, etc., and all the rafts naturally prefer this way, because it would be impos- sible for them to go down the Long Sault. In the distant front observe a light-house at the head ss of the Cornwall canal This canal is twelve miles in length, and passes around the Long Sault Rapids. The boats are steered from landmarks on shore ; by that small ball you see on the end of the pole, which is the bow-sprit. The target that you see in the dis- tance is used by the pilot to get his position in Long Sault Rapids. These targets will be seen frequently as you progress, and as they all answer the same pur- pose, this reference to them will suffice. LONG SAULT RAPIDS. Dickinson's Landing, on the left, was formerly a very important point on this line, as it was the foot of navigation before the canal was completed, some forty years ago. Few changes have taken place since, that are apparent to the eye. The Long Sault is the first one of the first-class rapids, and the third one in line proceeding down the river, and as we set a price on the other two you can set your own price on this one. A description of these rapids has been given from time immemorial ; it does not belioove us to give any graphic or colored description of this scene, although we might do so satisfactorily, having seen depicted on the countenances of thousands of passen- gers who have passed this way everything in nature, from the sublime to the ridiculous, as well as between the two, and as each individual's feelings differ, no one description would do the subject justice. One writer said : "It was sliding down hill on a steam- boat." Another said he felt as if he was being unglued ! A third said he felt as if he had taken a large dose of ipecac. Still another as if he was on a ship at sea in a storm. And vet one more was so exhilerated that 89 he imagined he owned Maud S. and would like to spend his days on the rapids. Another party who had ridiculed the trip a good deal, until the spray began to cover the deck, wetting them to the skin, drench- ing their store clothes, which, when dried, revealed awkward misfits, exclaimed that "it was the grandest sight they ever witnessed." I could enlarge upon other descriptions, but prefer to give the Phat Boy a privilege to relate a few facts — no "taffy." All the boats of this line are built of Bessemer steel or iron, with three and one-half inches of elm riveted close to the iron on the bottom outside to prevent accidents rf we should strike against a rock. This precaution was found necessary, because the first iron boat that struck a rock became a total wreck. With the protection of elm no injury has resulted from the occasional striking of the boats against the rocks. There is no danger, however, in this rapid, for the water in the shallowest place is thirteen and one-half feet, and we are drawing about seven feet. During our passage through all the rapids, we have four men at the wheel and four men at the tiller aft, who assist the men at the wheel. Any acci- dent that should happen to the chain or the wheel, the pilot immediately goes to the right hand of the tiller. The Long Sault rapid is nine miles long; three miles of boisterous commotion ; six miles of current and sudden sharp turns. When we first enter the rapid the steam on board of the boat is slowed down until she gets her position in the rapids, as she draws less water than when under full head of steam. We Eire then compelled to put on full steam, as the boat 90 must go faster than the current in order to obtain steerage way. Many suppose that no steam is used through the rapids, which is an error. If we were to attempt to go down without any propelling power, we would be at the mercy of the current of this stu- pendous agitation called rapids. One couldn't tell which end of the boat would be first, and it is pre- sumable that this would be anything but pleasant to the passenger, for he would go down the same as a log ; no one could tell which end of the boat would be first — anything but pleasure to the passengers. When we first enter this rapid, the finest view is obtained on the right side of the boat. It is expected, however, that the passengers will distribute them- selves equally on either side to keep the boat in good trim the Captain generally uses the '' Phat Boy " for this purpose; when he is not on board the passengers are expected to distribute themselves. The view, how- ever, soon changes to the left, and when nearing the point the swell and white caps run from seven to eleven feet in height. We have already explained the cause of the rapids. Now, will any one please explain to me what is the height of the rocks which create this commotion, and at the same time set their price on this rapid. After passing this point and the swell and white caps that we have been describing, on the left is the passage to the Canadian channel of this river, which forms Earnhardt's Island. On the right is the American channel. This was formerly used by boats before they came down the Long Sault, which for a long time was known as the lost channel. This channel having been lost for some years, it was discovered by gi Captain Rankin, who received for that service a magnificent silver watch, tlie value of which at tlie present day would be about $6.50. The first steam- boat of this line that passed through the Long Sault, was the Passport (tliis year the New Passport takes her place in tlie line), in 1847, ^"^ the pilot was W. H. McGanon, who is still in the employ of the com- pany. The soundings were made by scows and rafts, with poles attached to the sides, of 3 to 15 feet in length, and as either of these met an obstruction and became dislodged or broken off, the depth of the water was ascertained and a record made. The pro- pelling power of these scows or rafts was oars or large paddles, worked by from 10 to 40 men as the necessities of each required. The steamer Gill was the first boat through the rapids, and went down more by accident than other- wise, but it demonstrated the certainty of a channel. Earnhardt's Island, on the left, j}^ miles in length by 4>^ miles in width, belongs to the United States. On the right is the main land, St. Lawrence County, N. Y. Both sides of the river for the next seven miles belong to the United States. The King of Holland, who was the arbitrator of the treaty of 1812, from charts, maps, etc., furnished him, supposed that the main channel of the river passed around that island on the left. He was mistaken, however; this is the main channel of the river, and the only navi- gable one; the Canadian channel containing only about 3^2 or four feet of water. During the next eight minutes we pass three very sudden turns in the river; the first turn is to the right; then to the left; next to the right again; the 92 second turn being the sharpest on the St. Lawrence River; at direct angles turning to the left. Passen- gers on the left side of the boat, by looking backward, have a fine view of that portion of the river we have just passed, and looking forward see where we are compelled to go, and more easily note the sharpness of the turn. Rafts entering the American channel at the foot of the Long Sault rapids will drift nine miles in forty minutes, and are often thrown on shore on either side in making this sudden turn. After making our next turn to the right, by looking in the distance front, between the narrow point, we discover what is known as "The Crab." The current crosses here from right to left, then left to right, and from right to left, forming the letter Z. Rafts get entangled in this portion of the river, and are easily torn to pieces. There is a ferry boat plys between this point, on the right Macenia point and Cornwall point on the left, touching at two places on Earnhardt's island, to convey passengers who are desirous of visiting Macenia Springs, six miles distant. The steamboat is a side-wheeler, two horses tread the power that revolves the wheels ; it is therefore a two-horse boat ; they convey the steam on board in a bag well filled with oats. The deck hand is the cook ; the cook is the engineer ; the engineer is the mate, and the mate is the captain ; one man supreme command ; no mutiny, ever occurs, unless the mule should kick the deck hand overboard — that would be sl^^ muli^y," would it not ? On the left is the entrance to the Canadian channel at the end of Earnhardt's island. Two miles below 93 on the right is the last of the American shore on the St. Lawrence, lat. 45 ° N. Some few years ago I was presented by one of the firms in the city, with an American flag, fifteen feet in length, to designate the last of the United States shore on this river. Through the assistance of a friend at Cornwall, and thirteen dollars in cash, I succeeded in getting the flag in position. It remained there for about ten days, when a party of St. Regis Indians, who occupy a reserva- tion six miles distant, the other side of the island — four of them, came over to the point, filled them- selves full of ''ice water," climbed up the flag-staff, and took down the flag. They cut it up into three or four suits of clothes, and went around this vicinity for about a week as full as a boiled oyster, singing " Hail Columbia, right side up," rolled up in the Stars and Stripes, full of firewater; it was said to be the happiest moment of their lives, and I have no reason to doubt it. On June 7th, 1887, I was pre- sented by Mr. S. Carsley, the leading dry goods mer- chant of Montreal, with another splendid American flag, and I hope when placed in position it may wave until I cease issuing this little volume, and on white wings, etc., etc. That portion of the river on the right is the divid- ing line for five miles ; afterwards an iron fence or posts, set at equal distance apart, mark the boundary line. The river passing around the way forms Corn- wall island, about six miles v/ide. Rafts enter this portion of the river where the Racket river empties in, and are here refitted preparatory to being towed through the lake. Both sides of the river from this point downward belong to the Dominion of Canada. 94 In the distance, on the left is Cornwall, a village of 5,000 people, with the largest cotton and woolen mills in the Dominion. Since the protectiye tariff was inaugurated by the Dominion Parliament, these industries have thrived wonderfully, and the town is correspondingly prosperous. The large round tower is the water works reservoir. Just before landing, a fine view is obtained of both the old and new Corn- wall canals. Looking at the old canal lock, and learning its dimensions, it is obvious why the steam- ers are their present size and no longer. These steam- ers are the limit which the locks will admit, hence if they were five feet longer or a trifle wider, they would be compelled to remain at Montreal, not being able to work through the locks. The new canal which is alongside of the old one, will have locks roo, feet longer than the present ones in use, consequently much larger boats will be able to ply the river. The old canal was considered amply large when built ; it was not supposed that the travel on tire St. Lawrence would ever reach its present and constantly increasing numbers. After leaving Cornwall, on the right is Cornwall Island, 6 miles wide. Just beyond the island, on the right bank of the river, is St. Regis, an old Indian village, which cannot be seen from the deck of the steamer. But there is just one point where the church roof can be observed for a moment or so. There is, however, a tradition worth relating here : The bell hanging in this church is associated with a deed of genuine Indian revenge. On its way from France it was captured by an English cruiser and taken to Salem, Massachusetts, where it was sold to 95 the church at Deerfield, in the same state. Tlie Indians, hearing of the destination of their bell, set out for Deerfield, attacked the town, killing forty- seven of the inhabitants, and took 112 captives, among whom was the pastor and his family. The bell was then taken down and conveyed to St. Regis, where it now hangs. During the next ten miles of our trip, the river is beautifully studded with islands, and resembles the Thousand Islands scenery very much. Many of these islands are inhabited ; someol them elegantly laid out with driJk^es, etc. Rev. Mr. Dickinson's, called after himself, has a dock, atwhich steamers of this size can land; it has a hotel, number of cottages, and is quite a gay place in summer. On the lett side is Summers Town, .beyond which is Hamilton's island. Just before reaching Summers Town is the residence of Captain Cameron, of the Cultivature of this line ; beyond is the magnificent villa of Hon. Caribou Cameron, the finest on the St. Lawrence. It is built of Ohio freestone and cost J8o,ooo. Hamilton Island, on the left, is occupied every summer by camping parties, who come from great distances, even from Virginia and Ohio, and remain two, three, and even four months. Day after day, one of their principal amusements is rowing out in their small boats, awaiting the arrival of the steamers, and then swiftly ridi>ng on top of the swell that is occasioned by the wheels of the steamer. The scene is exciting and picturesque. On the right we now have a fine view of the Adirondack Mountains of Northern New York, and beyond, the Green Mountains of Vermont, except it be a smoky or misty day, when the view is slightly 96 obscured. It is 56 miles from the river to the moun- tains, and intervening is the v^ilderness of the State of New York, known as the John Brown tract, more famous as the hunting ground of adventurous gun- ning and fishing parties. Continuing our course, we pass three small islands and enter Lake St. Francis, 28 miles in length — a very- picturesque sheet of water indeed ; but the trip through the lake is quite monotonous, therefore, for the next two hours, the guide, as well as the passen- gers, can " take a rest." This being a favorite route for honeymoon parties, there is now two full hours for these couples to enjoy the " honey " or the "moon," as seemeth to them best. After making this announce- ment one day, 3 left the deck ; one, however, was an old bachelor, who went to curl his hair. In the center of the lake, on the left, is the village of Lancaster, an old Scotch settlement. Just before reaching the village, what appears to be a stack of hay, is commonly known throughout Scotland as a Cairn. It is no more nor less than a heap of stones in a rounded or conical form, placed in that way to com- memorate some especial historic event. This one was built by the Glengarry Highlanders in 1847, to per- petuate the memory of Sir John Colburn,who was Com- mander-in-chief of the Army and Governor-General of the province. It was built by patting cobble-stones one on top of the other — each individual inhabitant or stranger passing that way adding a stone. See Queen Victoria's Book, where she describes helping to build a Scotch Cairn with the assistance of John Brown, and one will get a better idea of how to build a Cairn. The county in which this place is located is named 97 Glengarry, and is mainly or almost wholly inhabited by the sturdy Scotch Highlanders, whose farms are of the finest in the Dominion. This is the last English speaking village on the route. Passing three lighthouses, showing that the channel across the lake is quite intricate, we leave St. Anisette on the right, a small French town. We are now approaching the boundary line between the Provinces of Ontario and Quebec. The liehthouses on either side show the geographical divisions. From the lighthouse on the left the line runs straight to the Ottawa River; then the Ottawa becomes the dividing line. Just before arriving at the foot of the lake, where the river re-forms, we pass San Zotique; next Coteau Landing, where we call for the purpose of taking on a pilot, EDWARD WILLETT, whose duty it is to pilot this line of boats through the next series of rapids, and the Lachine also through to Montreal; we are now coming to four rapids: first, the Coteau; second. Cedar; third, Split Rock, and fourth, the Cascades. The Canada Atlantic Railroad running from Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion, to Coteau Landing, the railroad ferry at this point conveys whole trains to Valley Field, where connections are made for Boston and New York. A bridge was to be completed this year and the Ferry discontinued. The shortest route from the capital to those points. On the extreme right, at the foot of the lake, is the village of Valley Field. It is at the head of Beauhornias Canal, ii^ miles in length, which passes around this series of rapids. 98 The river, in iij^ miles, has a fall of 84 feet. The finest water power privilege on the continent of America, except Niagara, is at this point. The largest cotton mill in the Dominion, the Canada Paper Co.'s mill, anxi several other manufacturing establishments are located at Valley Field. After leaving St. Francis Lake, we re-enter the river. With our pilot we go down the small rapid known as the Coteau, passing. Prisoner's Island on the left, and on the left bank is the old French village of Coteau du Lac. On the extreme left at the point is an old French fort, where battles were fought in 18 12 and 1813; the earthworks are still in a good state of preservation, behind which is the old saw-mill. Twenty minutes (or five miles) from this point to the Cedar Rapids, then you will "see der Rapid" that is a Rapid — the most Rapid Rapid of all the Rapids. Opposite the rapid is the village of Cedar on the left and St. Timothy on the right, the Cedar Rapid the finest upon the St. Lawrence River. Look at St. Timothy, bear in mind the view you have of Morris- burg; the impression of its beauty and thrift, and now you have the comparison. How does the former strike you as against the latter? It is a historic fact, and worthy of note, that no matter what town you arrive at in the Province of Quebec, this will be apparent to the eye: the finest buildings in the place will be the church, nunnery, school, hospital and priest's residence. Aside from these, the rest are all about alike. You cannot tell the palace residence from the blacksmith's shop, or the grocery store from the hotel. The church at St. Timothy has a seating capacity of 1,500; the population of the village is 99 6oo; the church is always full on Sundays, and as Mark Twain exclaimed, " What large donies these worshippers must have to their pantaloons for 600 to fill a place capable of seating 1,500.'' But they come from all the country around, being all of one per- suasion. An opposition church is so far unknown in these rural parts, hence it may be inferred what the extraordinary power of this old church must be in the lower province. Speaking to one of the priests one day regarding the amount of money collected by them from the poor to build and maintain their institutions, I asked him how it was, and he remarked that the millions have more money than the millionaires, and by getting the dollar from the poorer classes they had the million, which the millionaires never give up. Just before arriving at St. Timothy, we enter the Cedar Rapid and pass a distance of three and one- half miles in the extraordinary short time of seven minutes. By casting your eye shoreward, while passing an island on the left, and just before we enter the heaviest part of the rapid, you will discover how fast the boat is going. Looking to the right, you will see Hell's Hole and the greatest commotion in the river from Kingston to the Gulf. Leaving Cedar Rapid, which is the most picturesque and beautiful (in our estimation) of all, two and one- half miles farther along, and passing Bockey Hayes' shoal, which is a peculiar formation in the bed of the river, making navigation somewhat dangerous. In illustration: one day the steamer Corsican suddenly ■lurched to the left, and evidently struck a rock; whereupon the captain said to the pilot, "Edward, lOO you are a little too far over to the left." Before he could complete the sentence the boat lurched to the right and struck anotlier rock; then the pilot replied, " Yes; and a little too far over to the right side." It is plain that the channel about here is at least pre- carious. The government engineers, however, are now at work removing these dangerous obstructions. The Napoleon hats you see in the distance, on poles about ten feet high, are the marks which enable the pilot to obtain his true bearings through the shoal. Turning to the right, we come in sight of the Split Rock Rapid, the most dangerous rapid of all. When we speak of danger, we don't mean to life or limb, as no person was ever injured on this rapid; it is danger to property that we refer to, as this is the only one of the series that has cost the company one dollar. They lost one steamboat here, and have had others upon the rocks. On the 8th of July, 1874, the steamer Corinthian, of the R. O. N. Co., when passing the Split Rock Rapid, was almost instantly enveloped by a terrific thunder shower, accompanied by a hurricane. The wind was so powerful that the boat refused to answer the helm, and instead of turning to the right, as she should, tlie wind caused her to go straight ahead, and we struck a rock forward about five feet high and passed fifteen feet aft of the wheel over the same, and then stopped. I was upon the right hand side of the boat explaining to the passengers and showing or pointing out to them the ledge of rock when she struck. Immediately four ladies caught hold of me (whom tliey thought was the boss life preserver). What a position for a nice young man. I was about to exclaim as my friend A. Ward did lOI when he was surrounded by 20 of Brigham Young's wives, "I hope your intentions are honorable." However, through the assistance of some friends, I procured life preservers for them and was released from my somewhat precarious position. In a space of an hour most of the passengers were landed by the aid of the ship's boats and battaus from the shore, and proceeded by rail to Montreal, where they arrived the same evening. I remained on board all night until a derrick was erected and two of the boats lashed together, and a platform built upon them, when I was let down by the aid of the derrick upon the same, and without further trouble taken to shore in safety. The second line of white-caps which you see in the distance in front, is the Split Rock, a ledge of rock running from shore to shore, with the exception of a break of about sixty feet, which is a natural split in the rock. Formerly there was only a depth of nine feet of water; it was blasted out, and now gives a navigable channel of thirteen and one- half feet. Passengers, by looking into the water on the right side of the boat, can see the ledge we have been talking about. One and a half miles from here to the Cascade, the last of this series of four, and the last but one on the river— the Lachine being the last. The Cascade differs from all the rest, being a cutting chopping sea, in which the boats are wrenched more than in any other rapid. On the right is the village of Meloche- ville, at the foot of the Beauhornois Canal, eleven and one-half miles in length, that passes around this line of rapid. The boats of this and all other lines are compelled to pass through this canal, as none of them could ascend this line of rapids. I02 We are now thirty miles by water and twenty-four miles by land from Montreal. In the distance in front, is Mount Royal, or Montreal mountain. The park mountain drive, the most famous drive in the world, is up tlie brow of this mountain through a park. On the left is II Perot Island, formed by the two channels of the Ottawa. The one we now see comes by St. Anns, where Moore wrote his famous Canadian boat song. A resident of St. Anns, Lieutenant-Colonel Dowker, says that every spring the freshets of the Ottawa cause the water to come down into the St. Lawrence with such force as to cause an eddy to pass up the point of the island and pass down the navigable channel of the Ottawa, and he can take a pail from his house. Chateau Blanc (where the famous poet Moore resided while at St. Anns and wrote his Canadian poems), proceed down to the river and dip up a pail of pure clear St. Law- rence water. Meeting Col. Dowker last spring, he told me that the freshets of the Ottawa in March and April, 1885, were the most alarming and disastrous ever known. The sudden breaking up of the ice caused a jam. Mouses were moved from their foundations, cattle and sheep crushed to jelly by the ice and many drowned ; the ice piled moutains high_ The government had an agent in the vicinity relieving the distressed inhabitants. The heavy flow of ice by the freshets in the Ottawa caused a jam a little below Montreal this year, 1887, consequently flooded the city, causing much damage to life and property. The oldest church in the upper Province and old forts are to be seen here. On the left a portion of the Ottawa empties into I03 the St. Lawrence. This is not, however, the main channel ; the navigable portion of the river is just the other side of II Perot. Note the difference between the color of the two waters ; they are as wide apart as green is from purple. The water of the Ottawa is of a dark brown color, caused by passing over low marshy, peat bed soils, and the huge forests through which this river passes, the leaves falling and rot- ting, and swept along by the freshets, doubtless dye the water to the peculiar color observable. The waters of the two rivers do not readily mix, and each are distinct for many miles. In the distance is Lake St. Louis, or Lachine Lake, 15 miles from the lapids to the foot of the lake, where we arrive at Lachine, on the left, and Caughnawaga on the right. The latter is the resi- dence of the Indian pilot, St. Jean Baptiste, who takes this line of boats down to the Lachine Rapids. About half way through the lake on the right we come to Nun's Island. That mound or elevation of ground which you see was a fort in 1812, and English and American warlike parties met in sanguinary contest around here. It commands the entrance to the Chateaugay River. The village of Chateaugay is about §ix miles back. The Nun's Island belongs to the Grey Nuns, of Montreal, who have a hospital for their own sick, and the spot is marked by a large cross emblematic of their order. Fifteen minutes from here we are in sight of Caughnawaga, where we take on board the Indian pilot, who has become of historical interest to tour- ists, as it_ was he who discovered the channel and took the first of this line down, August 19, 1840, and I04 lias been in the employ of the company ever since. He is 75 years old, weighs 240 pounds, and stands 6 feet high. I am sorry to say that on account of age, the company were forced to retire him, and his son-in-law will take the boats through the Lachine Rapids this year. Many of the passengers imagine he is the only pilot who can take a boat through the Lachine Rapids. This is not correct, for we have other pilots who can ; but as he is paid for this especial service, they resign most cheerfully in his favor. He has never had an accident, and the com- pany believe in holding to that which is good, and therefore "stick to the old man." He will emerge from shore in a small boat, accompanied by his two sons. They row him to to the steamers ; he comes on board, and the boys row him home again. He remains on board till the next morning, takes the first train for Lachine, where he is met by the boys, who take him home in a row boat. The Indian pilot's name is St. Jean Baptiste de Lisle; his Indian name, Ta ya ka, meaning in the U. S. language that "he will cross the river," but does not ; hegoesdovyn the rapids. He has a family of six children, three boys and three girls. The girls are unmarried. I state this for the benefit of the young men on'board, as the Indian pilot says he wants a "heap Yankee" for his girls. I am engaged to my Mary Jane, and they can't have me. A description of Caughnavvaga would not be amiss. Note the line of palatial residences along the bank beyond the church, the windows and doors kicked out to give them light and air, the palace gar- dens in the front part of the back end of the house, 105 The laundry of Caughnawaga is usually hung on the fence ; it is not wash day to-day, as you can perceive. The bath-house is the whole water-front, but it is seldom used. The water-works is that barrel on the shore. The fair damsel waving her lily white liand is Mary Jane, my best girl. She comes out every day to welcome me, as she thinks I am on board. You can get her eye and have a flirtation, the same as I have had for years, and not make me jealous. That large brick structure is the centennial building, built during the centennial year by the celebrated Indian Chief, White Kicker. I think they used him to kick the windows and doors out of the palatial residences previously spoken of. Coughnawaga, signifying " Praying Indian " (my friend Ben Butler says they spell it with an e), is well laid out for an Indian village, with a popula- tion of 900, all Indians ; no whites can live here. The finest crops raised in this section of the coun- try are raised just below Caughnawaga. They raise them with a derrick. It is a blasted crop, however, and of no use until it is. This notable quarry is where most of the stone comes from for the construction of the locks in the new Lachine canal — the entrance of which is at Lachine, the village just passed at the foot of the lake on the left. THE VILLAGE OF LACHINE is a favorite resort for Montrealers in summer. The inhabitants number about 2,000, but it is frequently augmented in the season to 9,000 or 10,000. Note the large buildings, which are the church. Villa de io6 Marie Convent, the School and University for the education of priests. Our pilot being on board, he will now show his Injin-uity in piloting a boat down the Lachine Rapids. Before reaching the rapids, the tourists can see the aqueduct that supplies the city of Montreal with water. THE LACHINE RAPIDS differ from all the rest ; it is simply an intricate channel through rock. Take your position upon either side of the boat and you will know when we come to the most important point, as the boat will be headed direct for a little island, which is nothing more nor less than a few loads of dirt upon a huge ledge of rock. Keep your eye upon the bow of the boat and you will be lead to exclaim, why, we are going to strike the island ; and if you are a betting person or a truthful one, you would almost swear we could not help but strike ; but when within less than ten feet, we make a very sudden turn to the right, with a grand pitch of lurch, in which you will think the boat drops ten feet. We pass alongside of a ledge of rocks for about half a mile, to see which you must be upon the right hand side of the boat ; at the end of this ledge of rock we have a perfect miniature Niagara, a little water-fall for a cent. Do not allow the lurching of the boat from side to side, to cause you any uneasiness, as there is no danger, because a side wheel boat has guards from four to ten feet projecting over on each side from the hull, 60 to 90 feet long, so that when that fiat surface strikes the water by lurching, that is as far as she 107 can go, therefore, will always righten herself immediately. I have had a great deal of sport in this way. When the boat had lurched over as far as she could, I would immediately exclaim: "Oh! I am on the wrong side," and proceed to the high side, when the boat would immediately righten up and the passengers would think I did it, but she would have rightened without my aid. Yet I have heard some very strong-minded women, after seeing the effect of my moving to the high side of the boat, exclaim: "Put that big man off; he has too much weight to be upon a boat in the rapids." This is the last rapid built on th.e St. Lawrence, you can have it the best one if you like and I will not quarrel with you for it. All I ask you to do is to stop at the hotels who advertise in my book and tell them I was the cause, and if they do not treat you well I will proceed to sit down upon them, not mentally, but physically, and they will never have occasion to treat any one else badly. Passing the foot of the rapids, a first view of Montreal on the left, and on the right is the village of La Prairie. The first mountain on the left is Mount Bruno; second, Bellisle ; the third, St. Pie. The next and last sensation (3n the trip is passing under VICTORIA BRIDGE, the largest and longest tubular bridge in the world, was built b)^ Mr. Stephenson in i860 for the Grand Trunk Railroad, by which it is owned and controlled. It is a mile and three quarters of iron, two miles and a quarter with its approaches from shore. It is wholly of iron, top, bottom and sides — an iron tun- \o8 tiel or box, as It were. There are twenty-four abut- ments, built wedge shaped (to crush the immense ice fields that pass through this section, which, previous to the building of the bridge, did immense damage to Montreal during the spring freshets. There are no such things as freshets on the St. Lawence, the Ottawa flowing in some miles above causing such disasters), upon which rest the sections of iron. These spans are from 250 to 360 feet long each, and the center span is about 60 feet high. The bridge tubes are 16 x 22 feet. It contains no wagon road or foot path, and is used by the G. T. R. and its con- necting lines. The cost of this immense work was $6,250,000, about one half of which amount went to fatten the contractors. I was not one of them. I mention this on account of my size, and for fear some one might think I was wealthy. The bridge is constructed of sheets of iron with a two-inch edge turned up and riveted to each other. It is fastened to the center, loose on both ends on rollers, and is provided with a sliding track, so that there is no danger by expansion or contraction to passing trains It expands and contracts from three and one-half to seven inches. The bridge is kept in thorough repair and well painted. The small holes, or peforations in the sides of the bridge, were original!}' intended to convey the smoke out, but found inadequate for that purpose; therefore they caused to be erected aline of flues the whole length. Now if any smoke remains it is carried out in a hand basket. The two movable scaffolds you see are used by the workmen in repair- ing and painting. It is not a draw bridge, and as we pass under the center span and not over it, you need 10() not renU)vo your Iial if yon riMiiain on the (lcf;k. Aflcr passing under Llio bridge you will liav(^ a niag- niliccnt view of MONTREAL HARBOR. 'I'hc |)oiiits of interest in llic liarbor will all be described to you as we pass over Si. Lambert's shoal, a very dangerous passage, previous to landing at tFie (juebec; boat, where wc transfer such passengers as desire to visit (juel)cc. Tfic island you see front on the right is St Helen's Isle, used by the citizens of Montreal for pleasure, picnic parlies, etc. A ferry plies between the city and island every half hour, from morning until 7 i*. m. On Sunday from 3,000 to 20,000 persons visit tlie island, mostly French Canadians, three-fifths of whom comprise the popu- lation of Montreal. In the distant front on the left is the oldest church in Montreal; to the left of that, the largest building with the dome, is the IJonseccour Market and old City Hall. The new City Hall is that large building in the rear with the dome in the center and f(jur columns — one in each corner. Across the road to the Icfi, that long building is the Court House. At the head of Jacques Cartier Square is a magnificent cohunn erected to the memory of Admiral J>ord Nelson. At the fo(;t of the scpiare lies a steamer of the Richelieu & Ontari(j Navigation Company. There are two steamers on this line, notably the Montreal and Ouebec. This company owns twenty-one side-wheel boats. The CJuebec line has the largest boats that float the St. Lawrence River; they will compare favorably with the boats of the Sounder the Hudson River — triple-decked palace no boats, built of Bessemer steel; one has a capacity of 360 state rooms — the other 280. The distance to Quebec is 180 miles, and the fare on this line is only $2.50 — the cheapest on the continent. Beyond, on the left, the two massive towers you see belong to the French church of Notre Dame. It is not a Cathedral, but simply a parish church. (The Cathe- dral is on Dominion Square, in process of erection, and when complete, will be one-half the size of St. Peter's at Rome). It is the largest on the continent, and has contained within its walls, front porch and stairways, on the 24th of June last (St. John's Day), twenty-two thousand souls. Beyond is the Custom House, with the clock in the tower, and still further up the examining warehouse of the Custom House, as well as the office, docks and steamers of the Allen line. The first stop is at Quebec boat; passengers for Montreal remain on deck, as this line is compelled to enter the first lock in the Lachine Canal; the gates close and the water is allowed to enter, which raises the boat to the level of the lock, when the passengers are allowed to depart. Montreal is the commercial metropolis of the Dominion, with a population of 150,000, three-fifths of which are French Canadians. The docks, piers, wharves, etc., of Montreal are the finest on the continent. It is the second city of com- mercial importance. New York being first. Six steamship companies leave here weekly for Europe during the summer season, and a large amount of business must of necessity be done, as its channel is closed during five months of the winter. The water front is all lighted with the electric light, so that work is carried on during the summer months night Ill and day. On top of the revetment wall was built last season a dyke or strong barricade ten feet high; it serves as a check to the water during the spring freshets to prevent the overflowing and damage of the sudden rise of previous years. Having selected your hotel and arrived at the same, our next duty will be to see the sights of MONTREAL. It is situated at the head of navigation for ocean vessels, 540 miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the Island of Montreal, which lies between the two great rivers of the North, the St. Lawrence and the Ottawa. The island is about 32 miles in length, and at its widest some ten in breadth; it is so fertile as to be called the garden of the Province. The surface of the land is level, with the exception of the eminence of Mount Royal, which rises 550 feet above the river level. Mount Royal gives the name to the city which lies at its base. The settlement of the town was originally determined by the first explorer, Jacques Cartier, in 1535, at which time an Indian village, Hochelaga, occupied the spot. The perma- nent founding of the place, however, did not occur until 1642, and in one hundred years of growth there- after it gathered a population of 4,000, It was under French rule until 1760, when it passed into the hands of the British. In 1832 the cholera raged in Montreal with great violence, carrying off 1,843 inhabitants in a population of about 36,000. In April, 1849, a political mob burnt the Parliament buildings, which "were erected on McGill street, and the seat of Gov- ernment was, in consequence, transferred to Quebec, 112 thence to Toronto, and finally to Ottawa, where it remains. In July, 1852, a destructive fire laid waste a large portion of the city, burning no houses and consuming property valued at |i, 400, 000. Notwith- standing these reverses, the city recovered, and to-day numbers a population of 150,000. Years of industry and enterprise have produced growth and improve- ment in Montreal, such as but few American cities can boast of, and perhaps one — Chicago — has exceeded. At the beginning of the present century, vessels of more than 300 tons could not ascend to Montreal, and its foreign trade was carried on by brigs and barges. Now ocean steamships of over 4 000 tons, the floating palaces of the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company, and ships of from 700 to 4,000 tons from all parts of the world, occupy the wharves of the harbor, which are not equaled on this continent in point of substantial construction, convenience and cleanliness. The old part of Montreal, near the river, has narrow incommodious streets; but the new growth of the city toward Mount Royal has been liberally laid out, with wide and cheerful thorough- fares. The architecture here is very fine; the material chiefly used is a zinc-colored lime-stone, extensively quarried three miles from the city. The public buildings, banks and principal warehouses are solid and handsome enough to adorn a European capital. The great wealth of the Roman Catholic Church has enabled it to erect many magnificent churches, hos- pitals and convents, always in a very massive and enduring style. Other denominations seem to have been excited by emulation, and vie with each other in the beauty and elegance of their places of worship. '13 Among the evidences of the French origin of the city are to be noticed a few curious old buildings to be found lingering here and there about Jacques Cartier Square, or occupying sites on the eastern part of the river front. The old houses are built somewhat like fortifications, and have heavily vaulted cellars,wherein treasure might be stored or a defense made against hostile foes, in the days when Indians and Whites French and British were fighting and plundering each other. The French Canadians in the city con- tinue still to be a little more than half the population, and, although their language here has not been unaffected by the constant intercourse with English- speaking people, it is not, as commonly supposed, a patois, but such French as was spoken by the polite and educated in France, when the emigrants who first settled Canada left the' shore of their mother-land. The naming of many of the streets of Montreal after saints and holy things, reminds one that its founders were not exiles nor adventurers, but enthusiastic missionaries. PLACES OF INTEREST. The Post Office is built on St. James street, the chief thoroughfare of this city, opposite the new St, Lawrence Hall. The reason I use the word new may be asked. Well, the hotel has been newly refitted, the corner building purchased, one hundred elegant and commodious rooms added, with baths and closets, electric bells and elevators, ladies' reception room, new and elegantly furnished suits of rooms added this year. The old proprietor, Mr. Hogan, pronounced by connoisseurs to be the best landlord 114 in the n.Hninion. lias assiiinod tlic [MO[Miotoiship and has associated with him as luana^xM', Mr. Samuel Mv>ntiioniorv, the best choic'o tliat couKi be made, as lie is ai\ American from the Paoilio sK^pe, where they know how to Ivcep a hotel. 1 theret"ore oheerfiilly reconimend von to stop at the new St. l.awrenc^e Hall during vour stav in Montreal. Startini;" troni tliere, it being- the center, every point of interest is within fifteen minutes' walk of this liotel. The first buildino* to the left is the new Post Otfioe, recently finished, with a richly decorated exterior, and every internal impivnement which modern in^eniiitv lias devised. Adjoining- it is the Hank of Montreal, in the Corinthian style of architecture, with a sculpture on the pediment depicting native Indians, a sailor and settler with the emblems of the arts and trade. The corporation occupying- this noble building is the richest one of the kind in America. It has branches in every town of importance in the l^ominion, and has otVices in New York, Chicago and London. It issues letters of credit on all parts of the world. Its capital and reserve fund amount to ^i 8,000,000. Adjoining is the Imperial I- ire Insurance Co.'s. new building. Crossing the street on the left hand corner, in process of erection, is the commercial building, of the New York Life Insurance Com- pany. Adjoining- are other banks, having their ofiices on Place d'Arnis, — the Jacques Cartien Ontario, Ouebec and National Hanks. <.^n the south side of the square, the great parisli church of Notre Dame looms up. The dimensions of this vast Norman edifice are ^^5 Icet in length and 134 in width. Us ivnvers are ajo feet hioh : the western (Hio contains the hirc^est bell in Aincrie:\, "Gross Bourdon," in weight 29,400 pounds. The sealing capacity of the (diiirch is 10,000. It has recently been decorated in deep colors and i;,old, after the manner of the St. Chapclle at Paris. An elevator was aiided last year, making the lower easy of access to visitors. Suspended over the western gallery, and near the grand alter, is an immense wooden crucifix. This was brought from Francx^ two centuries ago, and first set up in the churc^h built on the ground now Place d'Arms. Adjoining Notre l^ame is the venerable Seminary of St. Sulpice, with its old gate- way, courtyard and clock. The gentlemen of this seminary originally held valuable rights ailecting the entire island of Montreal ; much of the land yet remains in their hands. With the wealth thus brought to their coffers, they have liberally estab- lished and conducted many institutions of charity and education scattered throughout the city. We are now on Notre Dame street, tlie chief retail street in Montreal. Turning eastward a few feet from Notre Dame c^hurch, on the right is R. Sharpley & Sons, which will repay a visit ; a cordial invitation is . extended and I am sure it will be time well spent if you call. A little above on the left, 1671, J. & E. McEntyre, merchant tailors. They make all my clothes, therefore if they can fit me, further com- ments are unnecessary. A little above is Lanthier & Co. Let us go on we shall soon arrive at the Court Mouse, a fine Grecian building of simple and mas- sive appearance. A few steps further on the right brings us to Nelson's monument, setting forth in bas-relief the various victories wliich the ffreat liaval m ii6 hero won without the loss of a single British ship. This monument is in Jacques Cartier square, at the foot of which is the wharf of Quebec steamers. Keeping on Notre Dame street, directly beside the monument, we find opposite to each other two build- ings which form a sharp contrast. The one on the left is the new City Hall, a lofty and ornate speci- men of French architecture ; facing it is the "old chateau," a structure probably thought very fine a century ago, when Benjamin Franklin set up in it the first printing press ever used in the city. Now the old place is a Normal school, and the dis- coveries of the illustrious American are explained there, and let us hope his witty sayings repeated and acted upon. We can now take our way to the river side, and a block from Jacques Cartier Square shall find Bonsecours Market, a vast substantial Doric struc- ture. Here, if it be market day, we may see a little of the French Canadian peasantry, clad in their home- spun, and bargaining about their fowls, or eggs, or butter, with many queer words and phrases now almost forgotten in the Normandy, whence they were first brought. Next to the market is Bonsecours Church, a rough-cast building with a high pitched roof and with a breadth of a few feet adjoining it, occupied by cobblers and cake shops. This church is the oldest Roman Catholic one in the city ; its entrance is at the farther side ; rarely is it unoccupied by some worshippers from the adjacent market, who bring in, without ceremony, their baskets and bundles. Suspended over the altar is a model of a ship in bright tin, in which usually burning tapers are placed. Returning, on the water-front, we note the ships and 117 steamers from Liverpool, Glasgow, London, Havre, Rotterdam and other ports ; and on the right succes- sively pass the Custom House, a triangular building, with a clock tower ; the office of the Allen Line, also having a clock, and the fine building of the Harbor Commissioners. Next to it is a curious looking pile, with external hoist-ways from top to bottom ; this is the Customs Examining -Warehouse. Before we leave this vicinity, we shall glance backward at the street from Allen's office to the Custom House. Taking a short journey, still upon the river front, we come to the great works of stone masonry, which give to Montreal an enlarged canal to Lachine, so that vessels of much greater tonnage than the ones at present. used may be employed in the grain trade. This enterprise is one of a series of canal improve- ments by which Canada strives to retain and increase its business as a highway for the shipment of western produce to the sea-board. Retracing our steps, we take the wide street running up from the city, McGill, and mark the fine ware- houses that adorn it. Arriving at Notre Dame street, a little above, on the left, John Murphy & Co., who invite you to inspect their stock, styles and prices. Adjoining is Mr. S. Carsley, who occupies the six or seven stores in succession. Something should be said here relative to Mr. Carsley's establishment, which is admitted to be the finest as well as the largest in Canada. In doing so I shall not speak of the man but of the sterling features adopted as a guide in the past, which gave him prosperity and success. To secure the finest and best goods, fresh from the factories or trade-centers, this establishment has its principal house in L-ondon, Eng., as well as a , ,, >. resident buyer there. It also selects four of the best ['X.p judges of goods required for the home market, who :V go to the trade-centers of Europe two or three times i'/;' ;;/ each year with "carte blanche" to make any pur- j ,;,':,('' chases required. The imported as well as the domestic ^j^^i;|v goods are all marked in plain figures, so that each y^j purchaser may know-the price; therefore a child can I, ', ■' buy as well as a grown person. I cheerfully request ^ ;;|f'' you to visit this model establishment and inspect the styles, goods and prices, and if you do not make a ; ■' purchase it will be because you will receive so much : for your money that you will be afraid you cannot '; carry it home. Retracing our steps back to McGill ; street, we turn to the right, and immediately in front, ; just one block, is Victoria Square, which contains a i,^l| statue of the Queen, by Marshall Wood. Corner St. '■ t!ii\ James street, opposite, on the left, is the Albert ; j Building. Turning to the right we enter St. James , , street. The first building of note on the right is the ''^M:{ Ottawa Buildings; on the left is J. J. Milloy, the v;:' tailor, where tailor-made suits for ladies are a '■In'^] specialty. A little further on the riQ-ht is G. W. Clark, • . The Souvenir Palace, where, if you enter, the sight of , , .^ such rare curiosities and splendid souvenirs will cause y ;^'' you to wonder how you got in without a ticket; and ''■;')■ a little above is Drysdale & Co., where cheap English reprints of all the popular American authors may be had. This is the largest bookstore in Canada and the most cheerful, as they have just added a waiting parlor, where you can meet a friend and visit "Alex- ander s " if you desire; it is a little above, on the left, where is kept a first-class restaurant, confections, 119 "bon-bons," etc., and you can be served with the best the market affords. On our way to the Post Office, from whence we started, at the corner of St. Peter street is the Mechanics' Institute. This building con- tains agood library, the admission fee to which is only nominal, and a very good reading-room, having on its tables the principal dailies of America, the London Times, the Glasgow Herald, the Dublin Warder, the Edinburgh Scotsman, and all the weeklies, monthlies and quarterlies of both England and the United States. Strangers can have free access to this reading-room, for the period of two weeks, by applying to Mr. Hogan, the proprietor of the new St. Lawrence Hall. Opposite to the Mechanics' Institute is the Merchants Bank, built in modern Italian style, with polished granite columns at the entrance; the interior of this bank should be seen; the main office is carried up two stories in height and is beautifully frescoed. Diagon- ally across the street is Molson's Bank, also of Italian design, and richly decorated. We are now nearly at the hotel again, where we may conclude for the present our inspection of the city. Resuming our sight-seeing, we shall now leave behind us the business streets, and take our way to the upper part of Montreal. Our suggestion is, to take St. James street to the first crossing on the right as you leave the hotel, St. Peter street. After two blocks this street changes its name to Bleury street (when, if you find you are footsore, you can turn to the left to the end of the block, on Craig street, No. 1722, where is located the celebrated Surgeon Chiropodist, Prof. Harris, who will attend to any trouble of the feet, that will be sure to make your I20 walk a pleasant one, provided you are, like me, suffer- ing from corns, bunions or in-growing nails). At No. 17 Bleury street, we may enter Notman's studio, a large handsome building entirely devoted to photo- graphic art. Here we may spend half an hour very pleasantly in looKing over views of Canadian scenery, and portraits taken singly or skillfully grouped, rep- resenting the sports and pastimes of our winter. The chief of these pictures is that which shows a carnival held at the Victoria Skating Rink eight years ago, when H. R. H. Prince Arthur was present. This photographic marvel, with others now surrounding it on the walls of Mr. Notman, attracted great attention and admiration at the Centennial Exhibition. Mr. Notman was photographer to the Exhibition and received its highest awards. Continuing on Bleury street, we soon reach, on the left, the Church of the Jesu, with St. Mary's College adjoining it, conducted by the Jesuit Fathers. This church is modeled after one of the same name at Rome, where the remains of Loyola are entombed. The style of architecture is the round Roman arch. The interior is one of the most beautiful among American churches. Over the high altar is a fresco of the crucifixion. In the southern transept the suf- ferings of the first Canadian martyr, burnt by savages, are depicted. Leaving the elegant house of prayer, we shall continue on Bleury street until we come to St. Catherine street. A few steps brings us to the Nazareth Asylum for the Blind, attached to which (No. 1091) is a most ornate chapel, decorated in such a lovely manner as to lead one to suppose that it was done to encourage the suffering inmates of the asylum to see. 121 Next building on the side of the street (No. 1077) is the Roman Catholic Commercial Academy, a lordly monument of wealth and munificence, containing all the modern appliances for the practical training of youth, and presided over by an able staff of professors. If we keep going eastward on St. Catherine street, we pass on St. Dennis street, the immense parish church of St. James, with the tallest spire in the city. Near by is the new church which is dedicated to Notre Dame De Lourdes; water and relics from her shrine at Lourdes in France, are for sale in the basement. Adjoining the church are its conventual buildings. Returning on St. Catherine street, we soon come to Christ Church Cathedral (Church of England), unquestionably the most beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture in Canada. It is of a cruciform design; its extreme width is 100 feet. The spire, which is entirely of stone, rises to the height of 224 feet. The materials of construction are Montreal limestone and stone from Caen, in Normandy, which latter, by exposure to the weather, has changed from almost pure whiteness to a yellow tint. On the grounds of the Cathedral are erected the residences of the bishop and his assistants, the Synod Hall, and also a fine monument to Bishop Fulford,the first Metropolitan of Canada. The street runnins^ on the farther side of the Cathedral, is University Street, and No. 82, one block distant, is the Natural History Museum, con- taining a good Canadian collection. University street leads us down to Dorchester street, on the corner of which is the St. James Club House. On the opposite corner is the Free Fraser Library Building. Taking Dorchester street eastward, we pass on the left St, 122 Paul's Church (Presbyterian). On the same side we soon have a view of the vast proportions of the new St. Peter's Roman Catholic Cathedral. Across the square on which St. Peter's is building, we notice a beautiful church, St. George's (Church of England), and adjoining it is its Sunday-school, the largest and best conducted in Canada. On Dorches- ter street, fronting Dominion square on Peel street, is the Windsor Hotel. A little below on Windsor street is the new Depot of the Canada Pacific R. R., the largest and grandest in Canada. Next beyond on Dorchester street is the Victoria Skating Rink, where immense carnivals are held in the winter — the grand- est in the world. In the summer the spacious edifice is used for concerts, walking matches, public gather- ings, meetings, etc. Two blocks distant is the Found- ling Hospital of the Gray Nun, a visit to which is thus described: A long procession of the nuns marched slowly into the chapel and knelt in prayer. Each nun had a crucifix and a string of beads attached, and whatever may have been the case with their thoughts, their eyes never wandered, notwithstanding strangers were gazing at them. Some were young and pretty, others old and plain, but the sacred character of their labor of love invested them all with beauty. We said the eyes of none wandered. Perhaps we ought to confess that the quick, sharp glance of one, apparently younger than the others, stared at us for a moment; but it was only curiosity — womanly curiosity — and what women has not the curiosity to look at me. Yet that moment was fruit- ful of thought, and as we saw the sad, dark-eyed beauty rise in her place and mechanically follow her more staid sisters, our mind went back to the days of chivalry, when gallant knights rode with lance at rest, or wielded the heavy battle axe in heroic deeds that they might win recognition from the proud ladies who looked down upon them. And as we thought, it seemed that the most gallant deeds which men of this nineteenth century might do, would be to rescue young and pretty nuns — who wanted to be rescued — from the silence and sadness of the nun- nery. Again on our way, we are arrested by an immense structure even larger than the institution just passed; it is the Montreal College, which edu- cates ecclesiastics, and also day pupils, and is under the care of the Sulpician fathers. The two Martello towers in front of the college are relics of the times when incessant strife raged between the settlers and the Indians. Sherbrooke street is adorned with the private residences of which the citizens of Montreal are proud, and in your drive around the town, pre- vious to or after returning from your Park Mountain drive, it will repay one to drive through Sherbrooke, Dennis and Dorchester streets. The McGill College, University and spacious grounds are the next points. As we pass along Sherbrooke street, in the distance we observe, as we glance up St. Famille street, the enormous Hotel Dieu, with a large, bright dome, a free hospital for all, under Roman Catholic direc- tion. Returning to the Post Office, preferably by Beaver Hall Hill, we shall not fail to be struck by the num- ber of handsome churches erected there together. On the right is the Unitarian church; on the left, successively a Presbyterian, Baptist, and Jewish 124 synagogue. Near by, on Craig street, is a towered building occupied by the Young Men's Christian Association. We are soon at the new St. Lawrence Hall, and before mentioning the drive that may be taken out- side the city, it may be well to call attention to a few places near at hand a business man or student may be interested in visiting: The Corn Exchange, foot of St. John street, the Merchants' Exchange, St. Sacra- ment street, the office of the Telegraph Co., and the Open Stock Exchange, St. Francis Xavier street. Near the beginning of St. James street, on St. Gabriel street, is the Geological Museum, open daily from lo to 4, containing an admirable collection of North American minerals, and many interesting fos- sils. Here may be seen what many geologists regard as the most primitive record of life, the Eoxoon Cana^dense, ^rst noticed at Perth, Ontario, by a Mr. Wilson. From the fact that the oldest fossil bearing stratum, the Laurentian, is the backbone, geograph- ically of Canada, and because of the great variety of rocks found in the immediate vicinity of Montreal, this museum is particularly attractive to a lover of science. An effort is on foot to deprive the city of this collection, and, for the sake of centralization, remove it to Ottawa. I offer this as an apology in case it should be removed. DRIVES. As I have said two or three times, by far the most pleasant drive is up the brow of Mount Royal, called the Park Mountain drive. There are, presumably, two roads; the shorter returns by McTavish street, 125 the other by Bleury. The park was laid out by Mr. Olmstead, the designer of Central Park, New York, whose achievements there were recognized by a statue adorning one of the entrances. The river view from Mount Royal is delightful, and must be seen to be appreciated. I dare not attempt to describe it. A suggestion of how to get a hundred pictures of every conceivable shape or form of landscape views, con- taining mountain, plain, river, lake, hillside, valley etc., etc., is to close the eye, place the hands on each end of the forehead, and every time the carriage moves a hundred feet open the eyes, and you have an entire new picture. Keep this up until you have had an elegant sufficiency of view. The next drive is around the mountain, and was the best until the completion of the Park Mountain drive; it is pleasant and attractive, when it includes a drive to the Catholic and Protestant cemeteries, giving a view of the monuments and tombs. The drive to Lachine is next, and is of interest. The drive to Longue Point, along the St. Lawrence in the opposite direction to the last, gives us an entirely different kind of scenery. It takes us through the village of Hochelaga, the terminus of the new railroad, the Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa and Occidental, which runs along the north shore of the St. Lawrence, and develops tracts of country as yet unbenefiteci by the iron horse. About a mile from the depot is the beautiful convent of the Sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus and Mary. Many young ladies from the United States have been educated at this convent. The next noteworthy building is the Lunatic Asylum. This immense house, containing nearly 300 maniacs, idiots and imbeciles, is controlled by the 126 Sisters of Providence; these ladies, with the exception of six guardians for desperate characters, and a phy- sician, have sole charge. They find no trouble in the care of the numerous inmates, and by their kindness and tact restore mental balance, in all the cases where cure is possible, in a tithe the time it used to take in the old days, when the insane were treated with harshness and cruelty. On our way to Longue Point, the villages of Longueuil, Boucherville and Varennes lie on the opposite bank of the river. The drive to the Back River is an attractive one, and with citizens the most attractive of all; the beautiful convent of the Sacred Heart is situated here, and its grounds, finely laid out, lead directly to the water's edge. The bridge which spans the river at this place — a branch of the Ottawa — affords one of the charac- teristic sights of Canada, the piloting of a raft through a tortuous channel. The size of an ordinary raft, its great value, from $100,000 to f 300,000, the excitement of the captain and his French and Indian crew, with the constant perils threatening the whole structure, all conjoin to make up a scene to be dwelt upon and long remembered. Thus hoping the same will be said of your visit to Montreal, I shall advise all to visit QUEBEC. Tourists can either take the Grand Trunk, the North Shore, or the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Co. 's line of steamers. Tickets can be procured of the Company's agent opposite the new St. Lawrence Hall building, where staterooms, etc., may be secured. I assume that the river is the route selected, and that the reader is fairly on his way to that ancient city and 127 former capital. Passing a group of islands below Montreal and the mouth of the Ottawa River, we soon arrive at SOREL, forty-five miles below — the first landing made by the steamer. It was built upon the site of a fort built in i755> by M. De Tracy, and was for many years the summer residence of many successive Governors of Canada. Five miles below, the broad expanse of the river is called LAKE ST. PETER, which is about nine miles wide. The St. Francis River enters here. Large rafts are observed here slowly floating to the great mart of Quebec. THREE RIVERS is situated at the confluence of the Rivers St. Maurice and St. Lawrence, ninety miles below Montreal, and the same distance above Quebec. It is one of the oldest settled towns in Canada, having been founded in 1618. It is well laid out aind contains many good buildings, among which are the Court House, the Jail, the Roman Catholic Church, the Ursuline Con- vent, the English and Wesleyan 'Churches. The population of Three Rivers is about 9,200. BASTICAN is situated on the north shore of the river, one hun- dred and seventeen miles below Montreal. It is the last place the steamers stop before reaching Quebec. It is a place of little importance. In passing down the St. Lawrence from Montreal, 128 the country upon its banks presents a sameness in its general scenery, until we approach the vicinity of Quebec. The villages and hamlets are decidedly French in character, generally made up of small buildings, the better class of which are painted white or whitewashed, with red roofs. Prominent in the distance appear the tile-covered spires of the Catholic Churches, which are all constructed in that unique style of architecture so peculiar to that church During your stay in Quebec stop at the St. Louis Hotel, and if carriages are desired the hotel will furnish the same. This was made necessary in order to stop the imposition that is practiced by outside parties. N. B. — Fur Department and Indian Bazaar, St. Louis Hotel, Quebec. Tourists are invited to visit the Fur Wareroom adjoining the Ladies Parlor, con- taining one of the largest and most valuable stocks of Furs in Canada at moderate prices. Ladies' sacques, caps and muffs, etc. J. C King, Supt. There are four splendid drives laid out for the visitor and tourist; a neat little pamphlet descriptive of the same, entitled, "Views of the City of Quebec," will be given you by asking the clerk, Mr. J.'H. Phillips, Mr. John Brennan, or the news agent, Mr. J. C. King, of the St. Louis H^tel. 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