qass Jl/\ 142 ,- Book 'D 7 I- I * JOTTINGS I f)\' s<)\!!" m Tijy orjF^T*^ op INTERKST ^O N 1 : 1 1 E N G E EXC U RS 1 N . n\ EDWARD T. STEVENS. F.S.A Hon. Director of tlie, Salisbury and Souin Wilts Museum, ; Hon. C'jratoi- • m<* IV-.rstee of th> >> >> >> 3» JJ JJ J J JJ JJ JJ Wiltshire Long Barrows (not containing Chambers)- Remains of Funeral Feasts Mode of Burial in Evidence as to Human Sacrifices Flint Implements in Pottery in ... ... ... ... T Secondary Interments in Chambered Long Barrows of this District Tolmen Entrances to Monoliths and Triliths in, and upon The Worship of Stones Mode of Burial in ,, ,, ,, Presence of Cleft Skulls Round Barrows of this District Methods of Interment in Interments by Inhumation ... Contracted Posture of Skeletons Austral Aspect of Skeletons Interments by Cremation ... Urn Burial in Sepulchral Pottery in Cinerary Urns in ... "Incense Cups" in Food Vessels in ... Drinking Cups in Stone Implements in Bronze Implements in Sheaths and Hafts of Bronze Daggers British Bronze Age divided into Two Periods Chronology of the Bronze Age in Britain Bronze Implements cast in Britain The Alloy (Bronze) made in Britain Round Barrows of this District — Ornaments of Gold in Remains of Animals in Remains of Man in Difference in Cranial Type Relative Antiquity of Stonehenge and the Barrows JJ JJ j> >j 5 J JJ JJ )J JJ JJ J> >J JJ JJ JJ JJ 5> JJ JJ JJ JJ JJ JJ JJ J J > J J» JJ JJ JJ JJ J J JJ J» JJ JJ PAGE. 109 I 10 III III "3 113 116 116 118 120 120 120 123 123 123 125 126 126 126 129 129 131 131 134 136 137 138 139 140 140 140 141 142 143 148 VI Belief in the Possession of a " Soul" by Inanimate Objects The Bustard Camp Hill The Tournament Ground The Rivers Wyly and Nadder The Hospital of St. Giles, Fugglestone George Herbert and Bemerton Pleistocene deposits at Bemerton and Fisherton Palaeolithic Implements ... Cave deposits ... ) Fisherton Anger ,, ,, The Hermitage at ,5 ,, Monastery of the Black Friars The Begging-Friars Salisbury. — Monastery of the Grey Friars ... Orientation of Interments The First Fisherton Gaol PAGE. 150 152 156 156 157 158 159 162 163 167 171 172 174 175 176 177 178 ILLUSTRATIONS. FIG. PAGE. 1. The Old Council House, destroyed by Fire in 1780 ... 7 2. The Old Guildhall at Salisbury ... ... ... 8 3. " Buckingham's Tomb, " at Britford ... ... 13 4. View of Old Sarum ... ... ... ... 24 5. Section of Old Sarum ... ... ... ... 25 6. Plan of Old Sarum ... ... ... ... 26 7. Plan of the Cathedral of Old Sarum ... ... 30 8. Palaeolithic Implement found at Old Sarum ... ... 33 9 and 10. Tombs of William Longspee and his son ... 40 II to 14. Tombs of Bishops of Old Sarum, &c. ... ... 40 15. Bishop Poore's Monument in its original state, 1237 ... 42 16. Palaeolithic Implement, Lake. Lent by John Evans, Esq., F.R.S. ... ... ... ... ... 54 17. Alabaster Tablet, in the Salisbury Museum. Lent by "The Royal Archaeological Institute of Great Britain and Ire- land" ... ... ... ... ... 55 18 to 20. Amber Ornaments, in the Rev. E. Duke's Collection 60 & 61 22. " Gauntlet" pipe, made at Amesbury ... ... 68 23. ,, ,, found at Cirencester ... ... 69 24. Tobacco-pipe, found at Wigan ... ... ... 69 25 and 26. Makers'-marks, on the heels of tobacco-pipes found in Salisbury ... ... ... ... ... 70 27 to 30. Tobacco-pipes, found in Salisbury ... 70 & 71 31. Tobacco-pipes, made at Broseley ... ... •••73 32. Dated tobacco-pipe .. ... ... ... 72 33. " Fairy" tobacco-pipe ... ... ... •••74 34 and 35. Tobacco-pipes of the period of Elizabeth 74 & 75 36 and 37. Tobacco-pipes of the period of James I. and Charles I. 75' VUl 38. Forms of Tobacco-pipes in use from 1630 to 1641 ... 76 39. Tobacco-pipe of the period of the Commonwcaltii and Charles II. ... ... ... ... 76 .\o. Forms of Tobaccs-pipes in use from 1650 to 1688 ... 76 41 nnd 42. Tobacco-pipes of the period of William III. ... 77 43. Ornamented Tobacco-pipe of the period of James I. or Charles I. ... ... ... ... 77 44. Stonehenge, restored ... ... ... ... S^ 45. (iround-plan of Stonchenge, restored ... ... S5 46. (iround-plan of Stonehenge, as it is ... ... yo ^7. Plan .showing the way in which the Imposts of the Outer Circle dovetail into each other ... ... ... 91 48. The Great Trilithon ... ... ... ... 92 49. Oround-plan of Stonchenge, restored ; showing the relative positions of the Foreign and Local Stones ... ... 95 50. Oround-plan of Stonehenge, as it is; showing the present positions of the Foreign and Local Stones ... 96 51. Ci round-plan of Stonchenge, restored ... ... 97 52. A Long Barrow ... ... .. ... 107 53 and 54. Diagrams to illustrate the formation of Oval Barrows 108 55 and 56. Leaf-shaped Flint Arrow-heads, found in Long Barrows ... ... ... ... ... 112 57. Fictile Vessel, found in a Long Barrow at Norton Bavant, Wills ... ... ... ... ... 112 5S. l-'ntrance to Chambers in Long Barrow at Uley, Gloucester- shire ... ... ... ... ... I I S 59. Tolmen Fntrance to Chamber on the North side of Long Barrow at Rodmarton, Gloucestershire ... 117 60. Monolith, heart-shaped curves of double walling, and pyramidal piling, in Long Barrow at Ablington, Glou- cestershire ... ... ... .. 117 in. Bowl-shaped Barrow ... ... ... ... 121 62. Bell-shaped Barrow ... ... ... ... 121 63. Disc-shaped Barrow ... ... ... ... 122 64. Section of Bell-shaped Barrow, at Winlerslow, Wilts, with Grave four feet deep ... ... ... ... 124 65. Section of r>owl-shaped Barrow, at East Kennett, near Ave- bury, Wilts, with grave five feet deep ... ... 124 IX ■HG. PAGE. 66. Section of Bowl-shaped Barrow, near Cawthorn Camps, N.R. Yorkshire, with grave eleven feet deep, and skeletons extended ... ... ... ... 125 67. Section of Disc-shaped Barrow at Winterbourne Stoke, "Wilts, with burnt bones and urn in shallow graves ... 126 68. Urn, from Bowl-shaped Barrow, at Bishopston, Wilts ... 128 69. Urn, from Bulford, Wilts ... ... ... 130 70. " Incense Cup," from Bulford, Wilts ... ... 131 71. Drinking Cup, from East Kennet, Wilts ... ... 132 72. Drinking Cup, found with secondary interment, Wilsford Long Barrow, Wilts ... ... ... ... 133 73. Stone hammer-axe, from Wilsford, Wilts ... ... 135 74. Leaf-shaped flint Javelin-head, found in Oval Barrow at Winterbourne Stoke, Wilts. Lent by John Evans, Esq., F.R.S. ... ... ... . ... 136 75. Stemmed and barbed flint arrow-head, from Woodyates, Dorset ... ... ... ... ... 136 76. Bronze wedge-shaped celt, from " Bush Barrow," Nor- manton, Wilts ... ... ... ... 137 77. Gold Ornaments, from Normanton, Wilts ; Upton Lovell, Wilts ; and Bircham, Norfolk ... ... ... 141 78. Section of Brick-earth, at Fisherton ... ... 163 79. Palaeolithic Implement, Fisherton. Lent by John Evans, Esq., F.R.S. ... ... ... ... 164 80. Palaeolithic Implement, Bcmerton ,, ,, ... 164 81. „ „ Highfield ,, „ • 164 82. „ „ Milford Hill „ ,, .. 16S 83. Section of Deposits at Bemerton ... ... ... 166 84. Palaeolithic Implement, Le Moustier ... ..168 85 to 90. Implements found at Laugerie and La Madelaine 169 & 170 91 to 93. Animal-sculptures of Palaeolithic age. Lent by myself 170 & 171 94. Fisherton Old Church ... ... ... ... 173 95. Old Buildings in Fisherton ... ... ... 174 Nos. 31 to 43 were lent by Llewellynn Jewitt, Esq., F.S.A. Nos. 18 to 20; 52 to 85; and 75 to 77 were lent by the Society of Antiquaries of London. PREFACE. The following little work was written by my father, as a guide to an Excursion made by the members of the Wiltshire Archaeological and Natural History Society in August, 1876. It was originally intended merely for the use of members of the Society upon that occasion, subsequently, however^ a limited number of copies were printed and disposed of to the public. As there have since been many enquiries for the book, I have had it reprinted, omitting allusions to the particular excursion for which it was written, with a view of rendering it, as far as possible, a guide such as may be used by those who make " the Stonehenge Excursion." In the introduction to the first edition my father wrote : — " To the Society of Antiquaries of London I am indebted for the loan of many of the illustrations to the late Dr. Thurnam's valuable paper on " Ancient British Barrows."^ Mr. John Evans, F.R.S., has lent me several of the wood- cuts used in his important work on " The Ancient Stone Implements of Great Britain,"^ the book on the subject, a work that should find its place on the shelves of every one who takes the smallest interest in pre-historic Archaeology. To Mr. Llewellynn Jewitt, F.S.A., and Mr. Henry Brown ^ " Archseologia," vol. xli., pp. 161 — 244; vol. xliii., pp. 285 — 552. " Longmans, 1872. Xll (Salisbury) my especial thanks are due for the loan of many important illustrations." I can only add my sincere thanks to the Society and those gentlemen, for the very kind manner in which they have placed at my disposal, illustrations so greatly en- hancing the value of this work. EDWARD STEVENS. Sik September, i88i. THE STONEHENGE EXCURSION. THE ROUTE. The route, as far as Amesbury, lies along one of the prettiest of our Wiltshire valleys — the valley of the Avon. Within comparatively recent geological times, the Avon, periodically swollen by the drainage from the adjacent downs and from other causes, prevented also from spreading by the narrow limits of the valley, seems frequently to have assumed a tor- rential character. The force of this torrent has deepened the valley and scooped out the hill-sides that opposed its im- petuous course, thus adding not a Httle to the picturesque features of the scenery. This scooping out of the side of the valley in the direction of the flow of the stream may be especially noticed at Little Durnford, Woodford, and opposite Heale House; but it really occurs at every spot where the course of the river sweeps across the valley directly towards a hill-side. After we leave Amesbury, the homeward route — by way of Salisbury Plain — is of a totally different character, for it lies along the bleak chalk upland which divides the valley of the Avon from that of the Wyly. Such chalk downs are so cha- racteristic of Wiltshire scenery that, according to the popular idea, the county is one vast Salisbury Plain ; this of course is not the fact, but nearly three-fifths of the surface of the county really does consist of chalk and the kindred formations. Although " Albion" may have received her namjc from the whiteness of her sea-wall towards France, yet the chalk forma- tion is by no means confined to England, but occurs over a large surface in other parts of Europe ; it is to be found from the north of Ireland to the Crimea, a distance of about 1140 geographical miles; and from the south of Sweden to the south of Bordeaux, a distance of about 840 geographical miles. But the chalk did not at any period exist as a con- tinuous deposit over this vast region. The incipient chalk was, probably, first deposited in patches at the bottom of B 2 . Chalk. marine basins or lagoons, and then became drifted over the bed of the cretaceous ocean ; precisely as a similar formation is now taking place near the Bermuda Islands and the Bahamas. There, a soft white calcareous mud, — consisting of broken-up corals, the exuviae of mollusks, and the faecal matter of conchs and coral-eating fish, — is now being deposited in the lagoons. This incipient chalk may be seen in the Maldiva Atolls as it is washed out from the lagoons, through narrow openings, into the ocean ; the waters of the sea being discoloured by it for a considerable distance. In the North Atlantic, the floor of the ocean, over an extensive area between Ireland and Newfound- land consists of soft mud, almost entirely composed, like the chalk, of minute forms of animal-life. A similar deposit, of the consistency of putty, occurs in other parts of the Atlantic — as, between the Faroe Islands and Iceland, and between Ice- land and Greenland — minute shells (of foraminiferae) consti- tute 95 per cent, of the entire mass. A lump of chalk contains remains of hundreds of such shells. If we think of this as we travel over Salisbury Plain, with chalk beneath and around us — mile after mile, we shall abandon the attempt to grasp the idea of number as applied to the minute organisms that have served to form our chalk hills, and shall content ourselves with the assurance that " The dust we tread upon was once alive." TRACES OF EARLY OCCUPATION. Traces of early occupation will be met at nearly every step we take. There are the earth-works at Old Sarum, as well as those known as Ogbury Camp and Vespasian's Camp. The defensive earth-work, called Durrington Walls, lies no more than about two miles to the north of our route ; other earth- works, near Orcheston and Shrewton, are at distances ranging from two to four miles ; and the fine earth-work — Yarnbury Castle — is onlv between four and five miles to the west of the " Druid's Head." But we not only visit, or pass near, many defensive works of the early inhabitants of this district, our route takes us into the midst of a vast pre-historic cemetery — barrows (burial- mounds) of different forms dot the Plain in all directions, indeed in the neighbourhood of Stonehenge they are so nume- rous that there are about three hundred within the radius of Earth-works. 3 three miles. These burial-mounds belong almost entirely to two periods — the later Stone Age (Neolithic), and the Bronze Age ; those to be referred to the JBronze Age being the more numerous. At Highfield, about a mile from Salisbury, on the ridge that divides the Avon valley from that of the Wyly, and within sight of our route, are some earth-works of a later period, probably constructed subsequent to the Roman occupation. The site has been long under cultivation, and the works are only to be traced by the spade, they consist of shallow ditches and of "pits." The former were probably accompanied by banks, and these may have been crowned with palisades ; the pits have perhaps been used as store-places for grain. In the United States, especially in the eastern states of the Union, remains of such defensive works are very numerous ; in some instances, the holes left by the decay of the palisades were to be traced, whilst the pits ("caches") were still found to con- tain charred maize. Pits, similar to those at Highfield, have been examined near Amesbury : in the camp at Danebury-hill, near Stockbridge ; close to the railway-station at Westbury ; at Maiden Castle, near Dorchester ; and elsewhere. Within the defensive works at Worle Hill, Weston-super-mare, are a num- ber of carefully constructed '''caches" having the sides built of rubble-stone, in some of these charred wheat and barley was found. NAMES OF RIVERS AND PLACES THAT LIE IN THE ROUTE. The early settlers of the district have also left us enduring memorials of their occupation in the names of the rivers, the hills, and the villages that occur along our route. In such names are often preserved words which belong to a language that has ceased to be spoken in the district for centuries, they have long survived the overthrow of the people by whom they were bestowed, and have drifted down the stream of time on the tongue of successive generations of men — ignorant, for the most part, that what is to them but the name of a river, a hill, or a village — in some other language possesses a meaning indicative of the winding course of the stream, the position of the village, or some characteristic of the hill. Many of the earlier settlers have left us no written records ; their all too imperfect history has to be reconstructed out of B 2 4 Names of Places, d^c. waifs and strays that have drifted down to us, and among these, the names they gave to the natural features of the country are very important ; for the story of the migrations of a people, or of their overthrow by some intrusive race, are frequently to be found embalmed in the name of hill, or valley, or river-ford. As a rule, a conquering people adopt from the conquered those names which designate the natural features of a country, such, for instance, as its rivers, its hills or mountains, its valleys, and its ancient tracts of woodland. The names of rivers, especially possess an almost indestructible vitality, so much is this the case that, throughout the whole of England, there is scarcely a river-name which is not Celtic. The towns or villages that stud the banks, for the most part, bear names imported by the Teutonic settlers in after times, but the river that flows by them, or the hill that rises above them, still retain their original Celtic appellation, and remain to attest the once universal Celtic occupation of the country. Our route until we reach Amesbury lies along the valley of the Avon — the word Avon is a generic term for " river." The origin of this name may be found in the Sanscrit root ap, which signifies " water." The termination on being probably expressive of distinct unity — so that Av-07i means literally • " a river." Another Celtic term for " water" is to be found in the name of one of the villages we propose to visit — Durnford (formerly Dur-en-ford), i.e., the " water-ford." The root of this word is the Celtic diibr, or dur, which means " water." Fordd in Welsh signifies a road generally, and not necessarily what in this part of the country we understand by a " ford," namely a shallow, or forddXA^ place in a stream. The word ford is supposed to be a derivative oi faran or fara, " to go," which fits in well with its meaning a " passage " only. The suffix fo7'd occurs both in Anglo-Saxon and in Norse names, but with characteristic difference of meaning. The fords of the Anglo-Saxon husbandmen were " passages " across rivers for men and cattle; \}ciQ fords of the Scandinavian sea-rovers were " passages " for ships up arms of the sea, as in the case of the fjords of Norway and Iceland, and the firths of Scotland. We have the word in this sense in Deptford, the " deep reach" on the Thames. There are two villages close to Old Sarum bearing names Names of Places^ qt'c. 5 into which the word ford enters — Winterbourne Ford and Strat/^?'^ — the one is situated where those who travelled by the Roman road to Winchester forded the river Bourne — the other where was the ford of the Avon on the Roman road to Dorchester, the village has taken its name— Strat-ford — from being close to the ford of the " street," or Roman road.^ Nothing shows more conclusively the unbridged state of the streams in Saxon times than the fact that where the great lines of Roman road are intersected by rivers, we so frequently find important towns bearing the Saxon suffix-^r^. At Oxford, Hereford, Hertford, Bedford, Stafford, Wallingford, and Chelmsford, considerable streams had to be forded. The name of Stratford Le Bow contains internal evidence that the dangerous, narrow Saxon ford over the Lea was not replaced by a " bow" or "arched bridge," till after the time of the Norman conquest.^ During the latter part of the Excursion we shall find our- selves in the valley of the Wyly. There is a river Gwili in Csermarthenshire, this is evidently the same word, and possibly its original form. The Welsh word gwili means "full of turns" — winding ; but Welsh scholars tell us that the root of the word is to be found in givy, which signifies a "flow or flood." We have the word itself in the river Wye. From the name Wyly we have Wil-ton^, the ancient capital of the county — and Wil-tun-sc/iire^ (now Wiltshire), the county itself. Between Wilton and Salisbury the Wyly receives the waters of the river Nadder. A natural derivation of the word Naddcr would seem to be from the Welsh iieidr^ which means a snake or adder, — not an inappropriate name for a winding stream. This, however, does not appear to be the correct derivation, which is believed to be from the Welsh nad, " a shrill noise," or from na-der, " to utter a shriU cry." There is ^ The Roman strata^ or paved roads, became the Saxon streets. • The bridge was built by Matilda, Queen of Henry I. ^ A Teutonic element appears in the final ton, a word which does not necessarily mean a "town," but denotes any enclosure, great or small. In most cases, perhaps, our word ' ' village" would be its most correct interpretation, as, for instance, in Durrington (in Domesday, Dur-en-ton), i.e., "the village-by-the-river" — a place about three miles north-east of our route. But ton also appears in such words as Garston (gsers-tun) literally "grass-enclosure ;" and in Barton, a name applied to the buildings enclosed within a rick-yard — originally Bere-tiin, i.e., " corn-enclosure." "* The word shire (Anglo-Saxon scyr) means a "share or division." 6 Salisbury. in Sanscrit a remarkable confirmation of the probability of such an etymology, for whilst nad means " to sound," nada, its derivative, means " a river." Immediately on entering the Wyly valley we shall pass Fugglestone Church. It has been suggested that if Fuggleston be not a corrupt or shortened form of some personal name, it is perhaps from the Anglo-Saxon fugel (a bird or fowl) and that the place may have been named y//§^/-/^;. CHRONICLE OF EVENTS RELATING TO THE CITY OF NEW SARUM. Many of the events noted are of no historical importance, but nearly all possess a local interest. They are, chiefly, extracted from a work, published rather more than half a century ago,^ my copy of which is supplemented by my Father's extracts from the Corporation Ledgers, &c. This pamphlet may not be in the possession of many ; and to such the following extracts will possibly prove of interest ; arranged as they are it will be easy to turn over the pages unread, if the excursionist desires to pass on to the account of our first stopping-place — " Old Sarum." 1227. Nicholas de Brookeby was elected the first Mayor, — Charter granted by Henry III. to mcorporate the city, dated January 30th, in the eleventh year of his reign, at Westminster. 1278. Charter granted by Edward I. 1 3 10. The Great Ditch was made for the defence of the city. It extended full four furlongs from the corner of St. Anne's Street, where it was connected with the river, either by another ditch or a wall, across Milford-street and Winchester-street, just without the old gate (re- moved in 1767), over Green Croft, where it remained almost perfect till the winter of 1769, when it was levelled by the poor of the city, at the expense of the owner of the College. It continued in a straight line northwards, across Mr. Wyndham's garden, where part of it is still to be seen (1824), to the upper corner of Swayne's Close, from thence it appears to have taken a direction due west, joining the cut behind Castle-street, above the turnpike-gate. 1329. The Parliament sat in the city. 1356. The Plague raged in the city. 1370. The price of wheat at four pence, and barley two pence, the bushel. — Labour two pence a day. 1378. The Parliament sat in the city. 1382. The Parliament sat in the city. 1384. The Town Ditch (the Canal) began to be made, but was never finished. A gallon of white wine sold for six pence, and a gallon of red wine for four pence. 1 39 1. The Parliament sat in the city. 143 1. The Spire of our Lady Church (the Cathedral) was set on Fire by lightning. 1434. The gates of the city began to be built. 1436. A cow sold in the market for one shilling, and a calf for one penny. 1443. The city gates first erected. 1450. The Bishop of Sarum was murdered at Edington by the Commons of Wiltshire, during the rebellion of Jack Cade. i( A Chronology of Remarkable Events relative to the City of New Sarum, &c., from 1227 to 1823," fifth edition, printed and published by J. Easton, Salisbury, 1824. Events 7'elatmg to Salisbury. 1 7 1477. A wall erected round the Yarn-market Cross (Poultry Cross?) 1485. The Duke of Buckingham taken at the Brew in Wales, and beheaded in the Market-place, for rebelling against Richard III. i486. Wheat three shillings the bushel. — Henry VII. came here, and was met by the Mayor and Corporation on Alderbury Common. 1491. Wheat at one shilling and eight pence the bushel. 1493. Wheat at four shillings the bushel. 1503. Richard Smart was burned in the Market-place for resisting the doctrine of transubstantiation. 1532. Wheat was ordered to be sold by weight. 1541. Spencer, Rosny, and Hewet, burned in the Market-place, on account of their religious principles. 1544. Good land let at one shilling per acre. 1549. A great religious uproar on Harnham Hill. 1555. Mandrell, Coverdale, and Spencer, were burned in Fisherton P'ields,. near the city, as martyrs in the cause of reUgion. 1557. On the 5th of March, Lord Stourton was executed in the Market- place for the murder of Mr. Hartgill and his son. 1563. The Plague was in the city. 1569. The County Gaol in Fisherton Anger, near the city was finished. ^ It had remained at Old Sarum till the time of Heniy VII. 1573. The Elm Tree in the Market-place was cut down in order to erect the Council-House on its site. 1579. "The Council-House began to be built on the spot where the elm tree stood in the Market-place." I find against this an extract from the Corporation Ledger (C. fol. 58), in my father's hand- writing — " The first stone of the newe council Howse was layde in the north est corner of the same Howse by Mr. Christopher Weekes, Maior of Sarum, the Vlth day of July, 1579, and he also drave the first poste. " — The Plague in the street leading to St. Edmund, and the election of Mayor, in consequence, at St. Thomas Church (Nov. 2, 1579). 1582. The Quarter Jacks at St. Thomas's Church were set up. 1584. The Council House was finished. 1594. A great dearth of corn, wheat being at nine shillings the bushel. '597- The dearth still continuing, wheat advanced to twelve shillings, and barley to seven shillings, the bushel. 1603. James I. ascended the throne, and came to this city in progress ; and by reason of the plague in London, he, with his Queen and Prince Henry, spent seven weeks at Wilton House ; and fourteen days before Christmas returned to London. On the occasion of His Majesty's visit to the city, the Corporation presented a " Cuppe of silver, double gilted and covered, of the valew of twentie markes, or thereabouts, and twentie poundes in goulde therein, unto the King's Majestie ; a purse with twentie poundes in goulde therein to the Queene ; a purse with ten poundes in goulde to the Prince ; and one fatt oxe of the price of eight poundes to the Earle of Pembroke. The fower and twentie (Aldermen) apparelled in scarlet gownes, and the eight and iortie (Assistants), and others, apparelled in cittizens gownes ^ This was the Old Gaol, near Fisherton Bridge, see Naish's Map. C 1 8 Events relating to Salisbury. with their horses, and foot, and others, accompanyed Mr. Maior for the receipte of the King's Majestie." — The Bushel was set to the Standard. 1604. The Plague raged again in the city. 1608. A great scarcity of corn, 1610. The Market-place paved and railed- 1612. Charter granted (March 2nd) by James I. 16 1 4. My father has again extracted from the Corporation Ledger (C. 243- 244) the order for *' newe erectinge and settinge uppe a convenient place for the Judges and Justices to sytte at the tyme of the Assizes." Accordingly we find that in 1615. The Council-House was enlarged on the east side. 16^3. In the Corporation Ledger (C. 296) is the order for a ** footlifte" to be provided for the Mayor to ride to Church with the Judges (October 30). 1625. The Green Croft was levelled. — The Coronation of Charles L pro- claimed. 1627. The inhabitants again suffered from the Plague, of which died, from the 29th of November to the 17th of March following, three hundred and sixty-nine persons. Bugmore Houses made a pest- house. (Corporation Ledger C. 336.) 1630. Charter granted (August 17th) by Charles I. 1 63 1. At the summer assizes, a condemned felon threw a brick-bat at the Judge, Sir Thomas Richardson, Chief Justice of His Majesty's Court of Common Pleas ; which offence was immediately recorded, and judgment pronounced, that the culprit's right hand should be cut off, and fixed to the gibbet on which he was to be hanged ; and which sentence of amputation was then executed in open Court. 1632. King Charles I. came to this city ; when a boy, fifteen years of age, was drawn, hanged, and quartered, for saying he would buy a pistol to kill the King. — Henry Sherfield, Esq., Recorder of the city, in a fit of enthusiasm, destroyed the fine painted window in St. Edmund's church, which represented the Six Days' Work of the Creation, by reason of several errors in point of chronology, for which he was summoned into, and tried in, the Star Chamber, Feb. 6th, and fined /"50a ^ 1635. A great Flood. — Charles I. came here, 1637, Avery great Flood. 1638. Wheat at one shilling and threepence the bushel. 1641. The spire of our Lady church was set on fire by lightning. 1643. Prince Maurice, the Earl of Marlborough, and others of the King's forces, came to this city, and took the Mayor prisoner in his robes, for not assisting the King. 1649. Coronation of Charles IL proclaimed. 1653. On Sunday, June 26, the tower of St. Edmund's Church fell down just after the conclusion of the evening service. 1655. Old Haley, the plumber, roasted a shoulder of mutton and a couple of fowls upon the top of our Lady spire. — An insurrection at the ^ See " The Proceedings in the Star Chamber against Henry Sherfield, Esq.," &c., &c. London, printed and sold by S. Noble in Long- Walk, near Christ's-Hospital, &c., &c., 171 7. Eve?its relating to Salisbury. 19 Assizes by Colonel Penruddocke and Major Grove, with many others, for the King ; they took away the Judges' commission, and carried Mr. Dove, the High Sheriff, to Blandford ; but they were soon dispersed by Cromwell's forces. Several were hanged here ; and Colonel Penruddocke, with Major Grove, were beheaded at Exeter. The warrant for their execution, and also the cap in which Colonel Penruddocke suffered, are preserved by Charles Penrud- docke, Esq., at Compton Park, near Salisbury. 1656. The Charter of the city was renewed, for its loyalty, by Cromwell ; and a Sword, with a Cap of Maintenance, brought in. — The inha- bitants of the Close paid taxes to the city by Cromwell's order. 1657. The Corporation was invested with authority to admit persons into St. Nicholas Hospital, at Harnham, near the city. 1658. The Corn-Market was new railed, and a pillory set up. — Also a Whipping-Post erected near the Council-House. 1660. Thomas Abbott, Mayor. The happy Restoration of King Charles n. proclaimed, which gave rise to the Salisbury proverb of his being "restored by a Monk, and proclaimed by an Abbott." — The Sword of State broken at the Whipping- Post.— The Council-House was broken open, and the Silver Chains taken away belonging to the Town Musicians. 1665. King Charles H. and his Queen came here, in consequence of the Plague in London. Their Majesties went to Dogdean to see a football match ; they also ascended to the eight doors of our Lady church. — Two boys fell from the eight doors, and, pitching upon the leads of the church, were killed. 1666. The Plague raged here from March to Christmas, and carried off about six hundred persons. It appears that this city has been afflicted with the Plague (perhaps typhus fever), no less than six times, viz.^ in 1556, 1563, 1579, 1604, 1627, 1666. Many of the inhabitants, in order to avoid the contagion, shut themselves up in their houses, thus effectually preventing any intercourse with their friends and neighbours, having, however, a small aperture cut in their doors to admit provisions, &c. ; an instance of which was to be seen in the street-door of Miss Botly, milliner. Silver-street, so late as the year 181 7, when the door was removed. According to an entry in the Corporation Ledger, the Mayor, this year, on account of the Plague in this city, was chosen in the Close, by a grant from the King. 1670. The Bushel was cut. 1672. The Cathedral church was set on fire by the carelessness of the plumber, but soon extinguished. 1675. On the 13th of February, the Charter of the city was renewed by Charles II. — The river Avon began to be made navigable from Sarum to Christchurch, at the expense of the Bishop, the Mayor, and other gentlemen. A curious vellum book, containing a list of the subscribers, is preserved in the Muniment-room at the Council Chamber. 1679. The Poor riotously broke the Cut Bushel. 1 68 1. Two new maces were bought. 1682. Bishop Ward founded a College in the Close for the widows of clergymen. C 2 20 Events relating to Salisbury. 1683. A very high wind, which threw down the butchers' shambles, in the Market-place. The Duke and Duchess of York, Prince George and Princess Anne, came to this city, and lodged at the Bishop's Palace. The City spent five hundred pounds on them, and their trained Bands waited on them during their three days' stay. 1684. On the 23rd of December, the weather, particularly the snow, was so severe, that many persons perished by it returning from market. An account of this storm,^ perhaps the only original copy of the pamphlet extant, is preserved in the library of the Rev. Edward Duke, at Lake House. I give a few extracts : " On Tuesday, the 23rd of December, 1684, the weather being cold and freezing, there Hkewise happened a terrible, and certainly the most dreadful, storm hath in these nations been heard of in the memory of man. The carriers from London, to Exeter, Taunton, Shaftesbury, Bath, and Wells, &c., going as usually out from London on Saturday ; and particularly the 20th of December, 1684, and in pursuance of their respective journeys, being on Tuesday, the 23rd, with their horses and passengers, to pass the Downs on this side Salisbury ; such of them as escaped, do relate the manner of the storm in those parts to be as followeth, viz. That the wind being all day north-east, and violently cold, about two in the afternoon it began to snow very fast, and held on till two or three o'clock next morning, the wind continuing fierce, and blowing it in such heaps, that in some places the snow lay as high as a house-top, in others the ground scarcely covered ; which so altered the roads, espe- cially upon the Downs and Plains, that none of the said carriers could that night either find the way to their inns, or any towns where they might get shelter. Mr. Mathews, the carrier of Shaftesbury, had his unfor- tunate lot within fifty-six miles of London, two miles on this side Stockbridge ; who albeit he escaped with life, yet his hands are frozen up, that he hath lost the use of them, and two of his horses dyed with extremity of cold upon the Downs that very night. Mr. Collins, the Taunton carrier, and Mr. . . . . , the carrier to Bath and Wells, when first lost, judged they might want five or six miles of Amesbury. The Wells carrier had two of his company frozen to death, viz., his own son, a youth about thirteen or fourteen years of age ; and a young man, a passenger, aged about twenty years; which ^ London : printed by George Larkin, at the Lower-End of Broad- treet, next to London-Wall, 1685. Events 7'elating to Salisbury. 21 persons were not parted from the rest, or smoothered in the snow, but absolutely frozen to death, as they rode or walked along in company. This distressed carrier's bowels yearning when he saw his son grow stiff, and faint, got him up, and carried him till he dyed in his arms, and after he was dead carried him on horseback ; until extremity of cold forced him to let him drop upon the Down and leave him. Neither had Mr. Collins, who carries to Taunton and Tiverton less misfortune ; a man and his wife, two hearty antient people, being of his passengers, and riding on single horses, although very healthful and well in the morning, and chearful in the afternoon, yet by the continued cold and stragling of the poor horses, or by their own growing feeble to manage them, lost sight of the gang, and wandred by them- selves, till at length they lay down and dyed, one at the feet of the other. Mr. Collins himself and servants, when within three miles of Amesbury, hapned upon a parish where they hired a guide for ten shilUngs, who undertook to lead their bell horse, and con- ducted them a mile and a half of the three ; when, going faster than they could follow, Mr. Collins beg'd of him for God's sake to go no faster than they were able to come with the other horses. But the guide, alledging his own life was in danger, kept on his pace, and got safe to the Bear Inn, at Amesbury, by nine o'clock at night ; Mr. Collins, his servants and horses wander- ing till six in the morning, and then discovering an old barn, broke into it for shelter till day -light, one of his said servants is like to loose the use of his limbs, and Mr. Collins with the rest, meerly (under God) by violent labour and busling saved their lives." Several other instances of death, from cold, during this storm, are mentioned in the pamphlet from which I have quoted.^ 1686. March 7th, a Charter granted to the City by James II. 1688. The Mayor (Mr. George Clemence) was removed from his office, and Mr. Parsons appointed in his room ; also several of the Corpo- ration vi^ere removed, on account of their political principles at the time of the Revolution, but were soon restored again, — ^James 11. came to Sarum with his army, to oppose the Prince of Orange, but soon returned to London. On the 3rd of December, the Prince of Orange arrived from Torbay, and marched on for London. — The ^ It was re-printed by Brodie, (Salisbury) in 1841. 22 Events relating to Salisbiiiy. Crown on the top of the Council-house fell down. — Sept. 15, a Charter granted by James II., but this, with the Charter granted in 1686, was by proclamation, dated Oct. 17, 1688, called in and annulled. 1689. A great scarcity of wheat, being at ten shillings the bushel. 1695. A census taken — 6678 inhabitants. 1697. Mary Doman did penance in St. Edmund's Church. 1 704. On the 26th of November, a terrible Tempest of wind arose, which blew down the greater part of the large trees in the Close, and did great damage to the city, Close, and Cathedral church. 1707, A Charter granted to the city by Queen Anne. 1709. The Public Houses of the city were reduced to forty, which before were sixty. — Wheat at ten shillings, and barley at five shillings, the bushel. 1 7 10. A new organ was erected in the Cathedral church by Mr. Renatus Harris. 171 1. The Poultry-Cross repaired and beautified. 1713. The 1 2th of May, Peace was proclaimed in this city between Great Britain and France. July the 17th, an ox was roasted whole in the Market-place, being a day appointed for a public thanksgiving. 1723. Inoculation for the Small Pox first used in this city, which was then very hot. Out of thirteen huudred persons who caught the infec- tion, one hundred and seventy died ; and out of one hundred who were inoculated, only one died. 1724. A very great Flood in February. — The Cathedral church was set on fire, at the west end, by the carelessness of the plumber, but soon extinguished. 1726. The greatest Flood ever known in the city ; the water having risen so rapidly in the Cathedral church during divine service, that a pulpit was erected in the Choir to preach, the water being nearly a foot high in the body of the church. At this period, Prayers were read in the Choir, and the Sermon preached in the body of the church. 1742. The spire of the Cathedral church caught fire by lightning. 1758. The vane of the Cathedral church fell from the top of the spire. — The Steeple of the belfry in the Close was taken down. — The Bath Stage Waggon, with its valuable lading, was burnt on Salisbury Plain, by the wheels taking fire. 1762. On placing a new Copper Vane on the spire of the Cathedral church, the workmen discovered in a cavity of the capstone, a small round leaden box, and within it a neat wooden one, containing only the remains of a piece of silk, or fine cloth, decayed almost to tinder ; supposed to be a relic relating to the Virgin Mary, to whom the Cathedral is dedicated. 1767. The new Infirmary commenced ; the Duke of Queensberry, the Earl of Pembroke, and the Earl of Radnor, laid the foundation stone. 1 77 1. This year were discovered in the gardens of the College, the mouldering bones of nearly thirty bodies, some central pieces of ancient shields made of iron with thin brass bandages fixed to them ; an iron sword, and the heads of several pikes of the same metal. The iron was much corroded, and easily crumbled between Events i-elating to Salisbury. 23 the fingers, whilst the brass was as pure and perfect as when first composed. It is supposed that these are the remains of a battle fought between Cynric, King of the West Saxons, and the Britons ; who were, after a bloody slaughter on both sides, defeated by him in the year 552, and brought into his possession the capital British fortress of Sorbiodunum, now called Old Sarum. 1778. The bells belonging to the Cathedral church were taken from the adjacent belfry, beaten to pieces, and sold, previous to the removal of the Belfry itself ; and the Choir of the Cathedral church was enlarged. 1 78 1. The Mayor having given his customary entertainment in the Council- House upon the occasion of being sworn into office, the i6th November, 1 780 ; the following morning early, and soon after the company were departed, a fire broke out in the attic story, which raged with great fury, and completely destroyed that part of the building ; but by the very prompt exertions of the inhabitants, the progress of that all devouring element was happily checked without further mischief, though its awful ravages at one period threatened the whole pile with total destruction. 178S. The new Council-House was commenced, on the site of the old Guildhall, the foundation stone was laid by the Mayor (Mr. Edward Hinxman), on the i6th of September. 1795. The new Council-House was completed on the 23rd of September. The whole building was at the expense of the Earl of Radnor, Recorder of the city, who made this munificent present to the Corporation. 1823. The Corn-Market was removed from the middle of the Market- place, to the open space within the rails in front of the Council- House. — In the afternoon of Saturday, the first of November, the parish of Fisherton, as well as several of the principal streets of the city, became suddenly inundated with the greatest Flood the oldest inhabitants could possibly remember, occasioned by very tempestuous weather of wind, snow, and rain ; the water in Fisherton having, in some houses, been so high as three feet, and in the high-road considerably higher. At the Bull inn, the water reached the uppermost part of the kitchen dresser, and floated an eight -hogshead cask in the cellar. About nine or ten o'clock it began to subside. The high-road, however, continued impassable for pedestrians until Monday afternoon. 1 84 1. About five o'clock in the evening of Saturday the 1 6th of January there was a great flood, caused by the melting of snow from an unusually-sudden thaw ; unfortunately, the ground was so deeply frozen that none of the water was absorbed. The south-western portion of the Close presented, on Sun- day morning, the appearance of a large and unbroken sheet of water, which extended to the doors of the Cathedral, so that it was found impossible to hold the service. The water flowed freely through most of the houses in the Close, and I had to enter the King's House (now the Diocesan Training School) 24 Old Sarum. by means of a bridge of planks ; and was unable to reach my grandmother's house on the Canal without wading through the water, Fisherton-street was impassable for foot passengers for two days, most of the residents constructed dams at their doors ; and, on Monday (January i8), as my Father and I drove along Fisherton-street, on our way to Shrewton, the water was even then above the axles of the wheels. Fig. 4. Old Sarum. OLD SARUM. This is a very remarkable place ; in some respects the most noteworthy in Britain. Selected at a remote period and fortified with appliances of a simple character, it was the principal stronghold of a district very rich in military earthworks j and at one time was the resort of those inhabitants whose huts or wigwams, and the symbols of their superstition, covered the adjacent downs ; and whose sepulchral monuments (ascending to the Stone Age) point, by their contents, to a primitive, and by their number, to a long-continued population. The earlier Description of Old Sarum. 25 and later Britons, Celtic or Belgic tribes ; the Romans ; and the English ; have each left us traces of their rule. The Celt, partly in the fragments of an ancient nomenclature, but chiefly in ' material works, curious and grand, but which are in no way connected with the later inhabitants of the country ; the Romans, in those marvellous public ways, many of which are still in use ; and the English, in those names, boundaries, and customs, which are associated with our religion, our laws, and our civilization. Nevertheless, the mound of Old Sarum is a spot on which the descendant of the Welsh-speaking Britons has a peculiar right to feel pride. All around it savours of the remote antiquity of his race. The Norman fortress, the city, the cathedral church, have all vanished ; their very ruins have perished, and the knowledge of their arrangements has only been recovered by the accident of a rainless summer. Even the traces of Roman and English residence within the vast inclosure are uncertain and obscure. The bare and gaunt banks and mounds, the skeleton of the past life, are all that is left, and here, as at Stonehenge, the memory of the Briton is once more pre- dominant. Old Sarum is a rudely circular and concentric earthwork of unusual height and area, and of more historic celebrity than is attached to any other mere bank of earth in Britain, how- ever stupendous. Moreover, though really as much a natural knoll of chalk as Windsor, its sharp outline and obviously artificial finish invest it, to the ordinary observer, with the character of a work of man ; and thus prodigiously enhance SCALE 500 F-»'TOTHE INCH. Fig. 5. Section of Old Sarum. the admiration with which it is wont to be regarded. Old Sarum is really a knoll of the upper and flint-bearing chalk series ; of which advantage has been taken to scarp and elevate the highest and central part into a steep flat-topped mound, (A on Fig. 6) round which is excavated a formidable ditch, very broad and very deep. The section, Fig. 5, shows 26 Description' of Ohf Sarinn. what nature, as well as man, has done at Old Sarum. Beyond the ditch is a broad and comparatively level annular area, sloping slightly from the centre (B on Fig. 6) and in its turn girdled by a second and still more formidable ditch. Of this the counter- scarp is a steep bank, outside of and beyond which is the natural slope of the base of the hill ; forming what, in military phrase, would be the glacis of the place, and which on three SCALE ?: CO rt-ro THE INCH Fig. 6. Plan of Old Sabum. A. Keep or Inner Ward. B. Outer Ward. C. Main Entrance. D. West Gate. E. Cathedral and Cloisters. F. Precinct of the Burgh. G. Church of the Holt Cross. H. Great Well. Description of Old Sarum. 27 sides descends into the ordinary valleys of the district, but to the west is continued downwards until it dies into the meads of Stratford. The whole height of the knoll above the river (Avon) may be 300 feet, and perhaps 200 feet above the other valleys, and the fortified area is above 27 acres; so that the fortress is one of great strength and magnitude. Commencing with the interior, the central mound (A Fig. 6) is, at its top, about 500 feet across. The sides are as steep as the rubbly chalk soil will allow, and the material, removed in scarping, seems to have been in part placed on the crest of the scarp, so as to raise the edge of the mound by an artificial bank, this bank rises to the height of about 20 feet above the central platform. This bank, or parapet, is about 100 feet above the bottom of the ditch, and about half that height above the level of the counterscarp. The ditch is about, at its broadest, 150 feet. This ditch was the inner fosse of the fortress, and surrounded its Keep or Inner Ward, or the castle proper. The annular space beyond formed the Outer Ward (B Fig. 6), the girth of which was about 1,500 yards, and within which were the city and cathedral (E Fig. 6). This ward is not quite circular, but measuring from the inner to the outer ditch, averages about 370 feet. It is parted nearly equally on the north side by a bank, and on the south by a bank and ditch, the former being on the eastern side. These run as radial lines, but do not reach the interior ditch, neither does the cross ditch communicate with the exterior one. In fact the cross ditch, in its breadth, depth, and irregularity, much resembles a quarry : and very probably was opened to supply material for the hearting or substance of the castle walls. Besides these is another bank, pointing to the south-east, so that the whole area is divided into three sections, of which two lie in the eastern half Of course, the object of these banks was to shut in the church, and to prevent the whole Outer Wall being taken by a coup de mai7i. They are all evidently additions to the circular works, and probably of the Norman period. With these exceptions the surface of this ward is nearly level, but round its outer edge runs a low bank, and in places, in its rear, a slight ditch, no doubt caused by the removal of the wall. Outside this ward is the outer ditch, about 106 feet deep from the crest, and about 150 feet broad. The bank, which 2'8 Remains of Masonry. — Old Sarmn. forms the outer edge of this ditch was evidently formed from its contents. It is about 40 feet above the bottom of the ditch, and about 15 feet above the level outside, and it is very steep. This forms the outer line of defence, and in modern warfare would be considered a weakness, as affording cover to the assailants. Thus the fortress is composed of an inner or castle ward, (A in Fig 6), and an outer or city ward (B), with a bank and ditch defending each ; and a third bank beyond and on the edge of the outer ditch. The outer ditch and bank are those attributed to Alfred. The diameter of the whole place is a mean of 1700 feet. There are two entrances into the outer ward, (C) from the east-south-east, and (D) from the west-north-west, nearly oppo- site. These are formed by a direct cross-cut through the outer bank, and the filling up the ditch so as to carry a road- way, which enters the outer ward in a cutting, as a hollow way. At the eastern or main entrance (C) this way is shallow, and speedily dies out ; but at (D) the western (called the Postern) entrance (though narrow), the roadway is much deeper, and runs far into the ward. In each case, the way forks at the outer bank, and in the angle is placed a barbican of earth, a sort of cavalier, commanding both branches of the road, as well as their combination. The eastern work is nearly rect- angular, sharply defined, and has an independent ditch of its own towards the field. It is probably, in its present form, Norman. The original entrances seem to have been here, but the present arrangement is evidently late, and possibly alto- gether Norman. The Inner Ward has but one, an eastern, entrance, opposite to that of the Outer Ward. This also is formed by a notch cut in the scarp, the ditch being filled up to carry a foot-way. This must also have been very steep. It was evidently always the entrance, the bank elsewhere being uncut. Fragments of masonry show it, in its present form (a bridge being substi- tuted for the causeway) to have been the entrance to the Norman Castle. At the entrance to the Inner Ward, on the scarp, are two masses of chalk-flint rubble, with occasional blocks or lumps of sarsen stone (and pieces of stone from the Upper Green- sand), evidently the core of a gate-house and contiguous curtain once faced with ashlar. The enceinte wall seems to Remains of Masonry. — Old Sarum. 29 have crested the mound all round, the present bank forming a 'ramp behind it. In the enclosure, on the north side are lines of foundation, obviously those of the principal buildings ; and opposite is a bold depression in the soil, no doubt marking the place of the well (H on Fig. 6), which must have been deep, and was possibly large. The filling up of the ditch at the entrance is clearly modern. This central mound may be original, but it is rather more probable that the British work resembled Badbury, which has no central citadel, and that this latter wa"s added, and the ditch excavated in the eighth or ninth century, to make a fortified residence for the English Lord. This, however, must always be mere speculation. By whomsoever made, the Normans found the mound here, and built upon it a shell, of which the ditch was the defence, and the interior bank the camp. The outer lump of masonry is on the line of the wall of the city ward, towards the north-east, marked with a line on Fig. 6. This is part of the curtain-wall of the city, and measures about 10 feet thick, 12 feet high, and 25 feet long. It is pierced by two holes 18 inches high by 12 inches broad, placed about 6 feet apart and 8 feet from the ground. They seem to have carried two beams, for what purpose it is vain to con- jecture. The fragment is of chalk-flint rubble, with occasional chain courses of sarsen stone, rudely dressed. The inner face of the wall retains its original facing of dressed sarsen ashlar. Though placed, as indeed with such a weight, was prudent, 3 or 4 feet within the edge of the ditch, it was evidently a part of the general enceinte wall, described as having been 12 feet thick, and strengthened with twelve towers.^ This could not have been less than 20 feet high, and about 1,566 yards long, a prodigious work, even without considering the radial walls dividing the city from the cathedral. Besides these works, there was discovered, in 1795, a curious subterranean passage, which passed from the north-west quarter of the Outer Ward, outwards, towards the eastern ditch. It was cut in the chalk, 7 feet broad and from 7 to 10 feet high, the sides were found still to bear marks of the tool. The entrance had columns and door-jambs, evidently Norman ; the roof was round-headed, probably artificial, as it is described as being only about two feet below the surface. There were steps ^ Mr. Roach Smith, F.S.A., however, is of opinion that this fragment is Roman, and formed part of a rectangular building. 30 The Cathedral. — Old Sarum. cut in the chalk, and but little worn. It was followed 114 feet, and there found to be choked up with rubbish. No doubt this was a private postern, opening on the glacis or in the ditch, such as exist at Windsor and in other fortresses on the chalk. It may be observed, with respect to the outer defences, which have been attributed to Alfred, that they have the peculiarity of a high bank outside the ditch, very unusual in Celtic camps. Probably all Alfred did was to deepen this ditch, and throw up the outer bank \ and probably also all the ditches were again scarped and deepened when the Norman city wall was built. During the long drought of 1834, a very interesting disco- very was made at Old Saram. The Outer Ward was at that time laid down in grass, and upon this was to be seen in brown outline the plan of the old cathedral, E on Fig. 6. It was placed in the north-west quarter, between the secret passage and the west gate. The plan was a plain cross, 270 feet long by 150 feet broad, with a flat east end : the chapter-house was formed by an additional bay at the north end of the north transept, see Fig. 7. There were double aisles to nave, choir, and transepts. On removing the soil the foundations were seen, and in them a cavity, probably the grave of Bishop Osmund, the founder, On the north side of the choir was a square of 140 feet, the site of the cloisters. Here were found also burial-grounds for clergy and laity. ^ The excavations upon the site of the old cathedral were conducted by the late Mr. Hatcher and the late Mr. Fisher ; a very good account of the dimensions of the building and other details is to be found in Brown's " Illustrated Guide to Old Sarum and Stonehenge," from which the plan shown in Fig. 7 is taken. There was a large Galilee porch set between two western towers; the nave was 150 feet long by 72 feet broad ; the transept 150 feet by 70 feet ; and the choir 60 feet long. On the north side of the transept was an oblong Chapter House, and on the west side of the north arm were a Sacristy and Treasury. Of the style and architectural ornaments of the church some idea may be formed, inasmuch as many fragments of sculptured stone, which had formed part of the old cathedral, are to be seen built into the western wall of the Close, in Exeter Street (Salisbury), below St. Ann's Gate. Some of these may have adorned the faces of the 1 G. T. Clark, "The Earthworks of the Wiltshire Avon," in " Archaeol. Journ.," vol. xxxii,, pp. 290 — 309. 32 Roman Roads leading to Old Sarum. great arches ; many of the desigrfs consist of quatrefoils and rosettes ; another variety is ornamented with small arches, having nail-head mouldings ; there are also fragments of a kind of twisted moulding, such as is frequently to be seen as a border to the windows of Norman buildings. " It is certain that the greater part of the earth-works at Old Sarum are of prae-Roman origin, and that Sorbiodunum is the Latinized form of the British name — dim or dunum, denoting an 'eminence.' That the fortress on this spot is the Sor- biodunum of Antoninus is very probable indeed."^ The earth- works have been strengthened by successive conquerors or possessors until, from a mere hill-fort, the place became a strongly fortified mediaeval city. In its general form, however, following the lines of the hill upon which it is placed, Old Sarum is but an improved Ogbury, its original plan of defence has been modified and improved, but not changed. Why was Old Sarum retained as a defensive position when so many other camps — such as Ogbury, Chlorus' Camp, and Clearbury (the two last within sight) were abandoned ? Per- haps this was due, in part at least, to the circumstance that Old Sarum laid in the direct line of traffic in early times ; as many as six Roman roads are said to have led to Old Sarum, and, possibly, these roads only followed the lines of still earlier British trackways. Of the three Roman roads that entered by the eastern approach to Old Sarum, two are still very distinctly to be traced. One crossed the Bourne at the village of Ford, and passed by way of Bossington to Winchester ; the other led to Silchester, and may be seen running parallel to the South- western Railway, between Idmiston and Grately, for a distance of about four miles. The third road crossed the Avon at Stratford, crept up the opposite hill, passed near Bemerton Church, forded the Wyly by the Parsonage Barn, proceeded over the Hare-warren to Stratford Tony, Woodyates Inn, and Badbury, to Dorchester. A fourth road is said to have passed northward to the Roman station of Cunetio, near Marlborough. A fifth went to the north-east byway of the camps of Yarnbury, Scratchbury, and Battlesbury, to Bath ; and a sixth passed southward to Ilchester.^ It is, however, very curious that so ^ Clark, /. c, p. 298. ^ Dr. Guest, however, lays down but four roads — to Winchester, to Silchester, a western road to the Severn traversing the great ridge wood, and that called Atchling Ditch, which leads direct to Badbury rings, near Wimborne, Palaeolithic Implement found at Old Sariim, ZZ few indications of Roman habitation occur near Old Sarum ; beyond a few coins and other trifles, nothing whatever has been found within the fortress, and but very Httle in its suburbs. This remark, however, applies with equal force to relics of the still earlier races — the people of the Stone Age and of the Bronze Age. The palaeolithic implement, shown in Fig 8, was found on the northern side of the Outer Ward at Old Sarum, Oct. 2, 1872, by Miss Adeline King, daughter of the Rev. C. King, vicar of Stratford. It is now preserved in the Blackmore Collection, to which it was presented by Miss A. Fig. 8. Paleolithic Implement, found at Old Sarum. King. If this implement could be proved to have been fashioned by any occupier of Old Sarum, a very high antiquity indeed might be claimed for this ancient fortress. Of course, however, this is out of the question. It is probable that the implement was taken to Old Sarum with other flints, and it may even have been built into the walls of the old city. At all events, I am not aware that there is any deposit at Old Sarum itself, from which it could have been derived, although it might have been brought from beds, close at hand, at Stratford. m^ "■ What the Belgae did with Sorbiodunum during the century D 34 Events relating to Old Sariini. and a half of their occupation, is unknown. This period of the history of our island is obscure, and yet to it has been attributed, by Mr. Fergusson, the adjacent monument of Stonehenge ; the work, at least in its present form, of a people accustomed to the use of tools of metal,^ and with some notion of construction and of architectural effect. Sorbiodunum, re- corded as Seoresbyrig, or Searbyrig, which Sir R. Hoare rather happily suggests, may mean the ' dry,' or ' waterless city,' played a part in the Belgic and Saxon struggles. In 552, Cynric, king of Wessex, no inconsiderable leader of the ' aspera gens Saxo,' here conquered the Britons,"^ and obtained posses- sion of Old Sarum. In the early part of the eighth century, Ina, King of the West Saxons, endowed the Church of St. James, in Saresbyrig, with lands ; and his consort, Ethelburga, made a similar grant to the nuns, serving God in the Church of St. Mary, in Saris- byrig. 871. The outer intrenchment is supposed to have been added, in this year, by Alfred, within a month after which he fought a great battle with the Danes at Wilton. The order given to Leofric, Earl of Wiltshire, runs thus : — " I, Alfred, King and Monarch of the English, have ordered Leofric of Wiltunshire, not only to preserve the Castle of Sarum, but to make another ditch to be defended by palisadoes ; and all who live about the said castle, as well as my other subjects, are immediately to apply to this work." 960. ^dgar convoked a witangemote at Old Sarum, to devise means for the defence of Northumberland against the invasion of the Danes. 1003. Svein, father of Cnut, in revenge for the massacre of the Danes in the preceding year, made a descent upon the southern coast, and ravaged the country as far as Wilton and Old Sarum, both of which places he is said to have burnt, and then to have retreated to his ships. 1036. In this year Cnut died at Old Sarum. Finally, the place seems to have become a royal demesne of the Confessor, being so recorded in Domesday. Before passing on to the establishment of Norman rule at Old Sarum, it may be interesting to mention that, here Wulf- ^ The Belgoe were in their bronze age ; but it is not proved, as yet, that metallic tools were employed in the construction of Stonehenge. ^ Clark, /. c. p. 298. Events relating to Old Sarum. 35 noth, brother of King Harold, "the last of the Saxons," closed his sorrowful life as a cowled monk. In his youth, he had been delivered by his father (Earl Godwin) as a hostage to the Confessor; who, for greater security committed him to the custody of William of Normandy, in whose Court he remained for many years a prisoner. On the overthrow of Harold, and the establishment of the Norman dynasty, Wulfnoth only ob- tained his liberty by becoming a monk, and as such died at Old Sarum. " The Norman history of Old Sarum is an occupation of the older fortress, and the foundation of the early city. The in- vaders disturbed as little as possible the existing tenures and boundaries ; they placed ' themselves in the English seats of property, and from them administered the old estates. The defences alone were often changed. To walls of wattle or rude masonry, and stockades of timber, succeeded works in substantial masonry, and all the newly invented appliances of a Norman fortress. At the time of Domesday, the Conqueror held some rents here ; but the manor, a large one, w^as in the Bishop, a very important person ; and, as being such, it may be well for us to glance at the principal circumstances connected with the establishment of the episcopal seat at Sarum. The see of Wessex was founded by Birinus, in 634. It was subdivided, in 705, into the Bishopric of Winton and the Bishopric of Sherborn. In 905 — 9, five sees were created in the West Saxon Kingdom, to which a sixth, that of Wilton or Wiltshire, was shortly afterwards added, the episcopal seat of which was at Ramsbury. After an ineffectual attempt, in 1055, to remove this to Malmsbury; Bishop Herman, in 1075 — 8, with the consent of the King, combined Ramsbury with Sher- borne, and translated the seat to Sarum. 1078. Herman, the first Bishop of Sarum, laid the foun- dation of the cathedral, which was completed, or nearly so, by his successor, Osmund de Seez, Earl of Dorset and Lord Chancellor, a nephew of William the Conqueror ; who, being a wealthy baron in England and Normandy, endowed it richly by charter, in 1091, the year before its consecration. "Part of the land is described as 'ante portam castelli seriberiensis terram ex utraque parte viae in ortorum domorumque canoni- corum necessitate.' The gate referred to is that of the Inner Wards the canons' houses having been on the Outer. There was thus a castle twenty-five years after the Conquest ; but D 2 36 Consecratio7i of Cathedral. — Old Sarum. whether it was a Norman structure or that left by the English is uncertain, probably something of both." It was at Old Sarum that Bishop Osmund arranged the celebrated ordinary for " the use of Sarum." 1086. William (ist) was at Old Sarum in this year, and at Lammastide met his Witan in the celebrated Gemote which has been thus described. " Here in the vast open plain about the fortress assembled a host reputed at 60,000 men, com* posed of ' all the landowners who were of account over all England, be they the men of what man they might, and they all submitted to him, and were his men, and swore to him oaths of fealty, that they would be faithful to him against all other men,' an oath by which the great King broke down the intermediate power of the nobles, and, with that sagacity which in him was intuitive, avoided the rock on which the two great monarchies of the continent were destined to make shipwreck."^ 1092. On the 5th of April in this year, the Cathedral of Old Sarum, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, was consecrated by Osmund, assisted by Walkeline, Bishop of Winchester, and John, Bishop of Bath. Leland writes : — " Osmund, Erie of Dorchestre, and after Bishop of Saresbyri erectid his Cathedrale Chirch ther (i.e., in Old-Saresbyri) in the west part of the town ; and also his palace, whereof now no token is, but only a chapel of our Lady yet standing and mainteynid." On the fifth day after the consecration of the cathedral, the tower was seriously injured by lightning. Roger, Osmund's successor. Justiciary of England and Treasurer, is said to have walled in the outer enclosure between 1102 and 1139. Old Sarum seems to have attained the height of its prosperity under Bishop Roger, who, like his predecessor, obtained the custody of the fortress. Unscrupulous and avaricious, Bishop Roger affords a typical example of the feudal Churchman, at a time when the Anglo-Norman Bishops were barons rather than prelates, when their palaces were castles, and their retainers vassals-in-arms. " Whatever he desired," says William of Malmesbury, "if it was not to be had by payment, was seized by force." Roger built the castles of Devizes and Sherborne. 1096. William Rufus was here in this year to meet his Council, and decide upon the celebrated wager of battle in which William, Earl of Eu, was worsted and tortured to death. ^ Clark, /. c. p. 300. Coins minted at Old Sarwiu. 37 About this period a change appears to have taken place in the name of the ancient city. In the early periods of our history, the money which circulated throughout the kingdom was struck at various towns, to which the privilege was granted by the sovereign. Comparatively few towns in Wiltshire have been the sites of mints, but among them is Old Sarum ; although there are no written records to prove this, the evidence is that furnished by existing coins. The earliest known Sarum minted coins are of the reign of Ethelred II., (978 — 1016). On these the name of the city is written SEARBE ; on the coins of Cnut the name is written SAEBER, SEBER, SER, SERE. No coins of the Confessor or of Harold, minted at Old Sarum, are known. Upon the coins of William I. and II. the name of the city is spelt SERE, S^R, S^RI, SERB, SERBR, SERBIR, SERBRI, S^RB, SvEREB, StERBI. All of these are evident contractions of Seoresbyrig or Searbyrig, the names by which it was known to the Saxons. It is not until the time of Stephen that we find the first appearance of the modern name of the city, the inscription occurs upon a coin, preserved in the British Museum, and is SALIS. Upon coins of Henry II. the name of the place is indicated by the letters SAL, SALE, and SALER, all according with the modern orthography. After this period, the name of Salisbury does not occur upon any coins, nor is there any reason to suppose that a mint was ever worked at Salisbury at any later period, except, perhaps, during the troublous period of Charles I.^ 1 100 and 1 106. In these years, Henry I. held his court at Old Sarum. 1 1 16. Henry I. assembled his nobles here, and made them swear to recognise Prince William as his successor. During the civil wars of Stephen, Bishop Roger was dis- graced, and is said to have died of grief. 1 154. At this time the castle was held by Henry II., it was in a ruined condition, and considerable sums were expended in repairing it. Maude created Patrick (son of Edward de Sarisburie) Earl of Salisbury, and probably invested him with the Government of the castle ; he died in 1167. In 1164 — 5, the Bishop was lord of the manor, and under him were thirty-three knights ^Hawkins, "Notices of the Mints of Wiltshire," in Salisbury Vol. Archeol Inst,, pp. 237 — 239. 3 8 Removal of the Cathedral. — Old Sarum . under the old feoffment, and three under the new. Earl Patrick held two knight fees, and a third by the tenure of guarding the castle. ^'So long as the Bishops held the castle, either indepen- dently or for the Crown, the position of the Cathedral was sufficiently secure, but when lay castellans took their place, and were men powerful enough to ill-treat their neighbours, the clergy began to suffer, and to make the most of the natural disadvantage of so high and exposed a situation. They suffered ' ob insolentiam militis et ob penuriam aquae' ; the church was ' Castro comitis vicina,' and the vicinity was unpleasant. "Under Bishop Herbert ie Poer, who succeeded in 1194, the disputes between the soldiers and the clergy reached their" height, and he decided to remove the cathedral to a spot of ground near the -confluence of the Wyly and the Nadder with the Avon, rather more than a mile distant from Old Sarum. "^ According to one tradition, the site of the new cathedral was determined by where an arrow, shot from the ramparts of Old Sarum, should fall ; according to another tradition, the site was revealed to Bishop le Poer, in a dream, by the Blessed Virgin herself. Leland writes of the removal to New Sarum in these words : — " Sum think that lak of water caussid the inhabitants to relinquish the place j yet were ther many welles of swete water. Sum say, that after that in tyme of civil warres that castles and waullid towns were kept, that the castellanes of Old-Saresbyri and the chanons could not agree, insomuch that the castellanes upon a time prohibited them, coming home from Procession and Rogation, to re-entre the toun. Whereupon the bishop and they consulting together, at the last began a chirch on his oun proper soyle ; and then the people resorted strait to Neiv-Saresbyri and buildid ther : and then, in continuance, were a great number of the houses of Old-Saresbyri pulled down and set up at Nezv-Saresbyri.^'' Merefield, a marshy spot but with an excellent foundation, was granted by Richard I. for the site of the new cathedral. Bishop Herbert died in 12 19, but his successor and natural brother, Richard le Poer, obtained from Honorius III. the Bull necessary for the translation, in which the causes for the removal are set forth. 1220. On the festival of St, VitaHs (April 28) in this year, the first stones of the existing cathedral at Salisbury were laid ^ Clark, /. c. p. 301. Tombs of the Bishops removed to Salisbury Cathedral. 39 by Bishop Richard le Poer and others. It is probable, how- ever, that the citizens had commenced to remove from Old Sarum in the reign of Richard L, and that parts of the present city were occupied before the foundations of the cathedral were laid. The new cathedral was consecrated Sept. 30, 1258, Giles de Bridport being then Bishop of Salisbury. There were six Bishops of (Old) Sarum :— Herman, died about 1078. Osmund, consecrated T078 ; died Dec. 3, 1099. Roger, consecrated Aug. 10, 1107 ; died Dec. 11, 1139. Joceline de Bailul, consecrated 1142 ; died Nov. 18, 1184. Hubert Walter, cons. Oct. 22, 11 89; trans. Canterbury, 11 93. Herbert Poore, cons. June 5, 1194; died Feb. 6, 12 17. He was succeeded by his natural brother, Richard Poore, translated from Chichester, 1217 ; who removed the seat of the episcopal see from Old Sarum, and established it at Salis- bury; he was translated to Durham, 1228. The tombs, and probably the remains, of the Bishops buried at Old Sarum, were removed to the new cathedral. Bishop Herman's (supposed) tomb is on the south side of the nave, very near the west door ; it is a flat, coffin-shaped slab of Purbeck marble. Bishop Osmund's tomb formerly stood in the middle of the Lady Chapel, but during Wyatt's alterations (1789 — 90) it was removed, and is now on the north side of the nave, between the north porch and the transept. It is a mean altar-shaped tomb, covered by a slab, inscribed with the date, anno MXCIX. — this is all that is left to do honour to the memory of the founder of the Cathedral at Old Sarum. Bishop Roger's tomb is supposed by many to be that shown in Fig. 13, it is situated on the south side of the nave. Down the front of the robe of the effigy are the words, " Affer opem devenies in idem." Around the sides of the stone are letters, described by Mr. Cough as a mixture of Saxon and Roman characters. The literal translation of this inscription is as follows : — " Salisbury weeps to-day the fall of the sword of Justice, the father of the Church of Salisbury. Whilst he flourished, he sustained the wretched, and feared not the pride of the powerful, but was the punisher (literally ' club') and terror of the wicked. He took his origin from chiefs (' dukes' or ' leaders'), from noble princes (or ' from the first nobles'), and shed lustre on you like a precious stone." fi< 1-5'-' Tombs of the Bishops removed to Salisbury Cathedral. 41 The mitre of the effigy is remarkable in its form, differing as much from the usual mitre of the twelfth century as it does from any later examples. At this period it had the shape of an ordinary round cap, slightly indented in the middle. The rest of the episcopal costume is in perfect accordance with other monuments and drawings of the period, and consist of the alb, the dalmatic (with lateral openings), the chasuble, and the stole, the ends of which last are to be seen below the dalmatic. In the left hand is the pastoral staff in its primitive simplicity. The right hand is raised in the attitude of bene- diction. Bishop Joceline's tomb is also on the south side of the nave ; it is shown in Fig. 14. Upon the tomb is the monu- mental effigy of a Bishop, /;/ poiitificalibus, with a crozier piercing a dragon ; it is surrounded with a border of birds and foliage. Joceline was a strong opponent of Thomas a Becket, and a supporter of the party of the King (Henry II). On the murder of Becket, he shared in the humiliations that befel the partisans of the King, he either resigned his Bishopric or was ejected from it, and became a Cistercian monk, in 11 84. On the loth of November, in the same year, he died. He appears to have been buried in the old cathedral, and, according to William de Wanda, his remains, together with those of Bishops Osmund and Roger, were removed to the present cathedral. The head of the effigy under consideration is not the original, this is evident from the form of the mitre, which is a richly ornamented example of the thirteenth century. Bishop Herbert Poore, strictly speaking, the last Bishop of (Old) Sarum, was buried at Wilton. The monument to Bishop Richard Poore, the founder of Salisbury Cathedral, is shown in Fig. II. It formerly lay under a canopy on the north side of the High Altar, whence it was removed by Wyatt, in 1789. The monument in its original state is shown in Fig. 15. 1227. Henry III. confirmed the " translatio de castro nostro Saerisberise ad locum inferiorem," and declared the city "quae dicitur nova Sarisbiria, sit libera civitas." The taxation accounts of the reigns of Richard and John show New Sarum to have been but moderately populous, but it probably took some time to remove, for it was 44 Hen. HI., 1260, before the new city was granted by the King to the Bishop " in capite," as parcel of the temporalities of the see, the citizens being the demesne men of the Bishop. 42 Bishop Poore's Mommieut. Fig. 15. Bishop Poore's Monument, in its Original State, 1237. Circumstances rendered the Castle of Old Sarum, "as a military post, of less importance than heretofore, and though the powerful Earls who bore its title were even more distin- guished than their predecessors, their distinction was but little associated with their castle, which fell gradually into disuse. The Montacutes, indeed, continued to possess it ; but the Nevills concentrated their power on the Midland and Northern counties, and Warwick, Raby, and Middleham were to them what Sarum had been to their precursors in the title. Finally, when arms yielded to the gown, and the great The Earls of Salisbury. 43 minister of the great Queen chose, under her successor, SaHsbury for his title of honour, he had more regard to the thriving city than to the ruined fortress, of which he was not even the possessor." Patrick, son of Edward de Sarisburie, was created, by Maud, the first Earl of Salisbury. Earl Patrick died in 1167. His son, William, the second Earl, was father of the celebrated Countess Ela. She married William with the Long Sword, son of Henry II. and Fair Rosamond, who became Earl of Salisbury in her right, and held the castle of Old Sarum ; where he died, in 1226. His tomb, now placed on the south side of the nave of Salisbury Cathedral, is shown in Fig. 9 ; it formerly stood on the north side of the Lady Chapel, but was removed to its present situation by Wyatt. The tomb was originally richly painted, and some of the colouring is still to be seen. This tomb should not be confused with that of his son, another William Longspee, which is on the north side of the nave, and is shown in Fig. 10. This younger William Longspee seems to have claimed, but never to have obtained, the Earldom. He joined the Crusaders, under Saint Louis, fell fighting, near Cairo, in 1250; and was buried in the Church of Holy Cross, at Acre. 1332. The King (Edward HI.) granted licence to the Bishop, dean, and chapter of Salisbury to remove the walls of the cathedral and canonical houses v/ithin his castle of Old Sarum, and to employ the material in the repairs of the church and Close of New Sarum. No doubt, under this licence, the whole material was moved down to the ground level, or even below it, and probably the licence was held to include the outer wall also. At the same time, the Bishop, &c., had leave to build a certain chantry on a part of the old cathedral, and to use it. 1337. Edward's son-in-law, WiUiam Montacute, was created Earl of Salisbury. A suit was brought by Bishop Wyvil against the Earl, on a writ of right, as to his title to the castle. The matter was at first to have been tried by battle, and each party named a champion ; but finally it was settled by a compro- mise, the Bishop paying 2,500 marcs, and the Earl quitting the castle to the See for ever. This probably severed the connection between the Earls and the Earldom, in the feudal sense. Hitherto allusion has been made to that space at Old Sarum 44 The Burgh of Old Sai'wn. included within the outer ditch and rampart ; of which por- tion nearly ' one-fourth was occupied by the Cathedral and Close. But, outside the fortress, chiefly on the south-western side, stretched an extensive suburb, or Burgh. This burgh was enclosed with a wall, which commenced at the public- house (Old Castle Inn) on the eastern side of the road, thence it was carried to the foot or the rampart, which it skirted on the north, west, and perhaps south. It then diverged, leaving a considerable open space on the declivity, and finally abutted on the road leading to Stratford. The area of this inclosure was 49 acres, 3 roods ; and the joint extent of the fortress and burgh amounted to 72 acres, i rood. In the year 1295 (Edward I.), Old Sarum, as a burgh, first sent members to Parliament ; their names were Hugh Sener and Peter le Wayte. It was not again represented until the year 1360 (Edward III.); from which time till the passing of the Reform Act, Old Sarum continued to send two "representatives" to take part in the Councils of the nation ; the two last members for Old Sarum, James Alexander and Josias Dupre Alexander, were "elected" in 1830 ; and the deserted earth-works were disfranchised two years afterwards. The burgage-tenures, or plots of ground, that conferred the elective franchise on those who possessed, or occupied, them were nine in number, and, in the whole, amounted to twenty- three acres, two roods. Three of them are situated about midway between the Castle and the village of Stratford, and abut on the Roman road. The middle one is called " Elec- tion-acre," in this still stands a tree — an elm, that is said to mark the site of the town-house of the ancient borough, it is popularly known as " Parliament Tree." The last remaining houses of the old city are said to have stood in this quarter ; and, after the spot had ceased to be inhabited, the elections took place in a tent, erected beneath the " Parliament Tree." Of the other burgage-tenures, one was north of the east gate of the Castle, one was at the angle of the two roads entering Stratford from Salisbury, another was opposite to it, and is now converted into a garden, and the remaining three were near the river, in Kingsbridge Meadow. In later times, the mode of returning two members to Parliament for Old Sarum was charmingly simple, there was not a single dwelling or inhabitant, upon the site of the old city, " but, just before the election, leases of, what were termed,. Rui]is of Old Sam in, 45 burgage tenements were granted by the lord of the manor to two persons, who thereupon became electors for the nonce, and after voting for the lord's two nominees surrendered their leases, and retired into private life until the next dissolution. Indeed, so absolute was the power of the lord, that he once threatened the Prime Minister of the day, who had done something to displease him, that at the next election he would return his black servant as one of the members. " I myself remember," adds Mr. Lambert, " the occasion of the last election for this remarkable place, and a circumstance which added to the absurdity of the event was the application made by a wag, who, introducing himself to the returning officer as a representative of the London press, requested to be informed of the state of the poll !"^ When the castle proper was dismantled has not been ascer- tained. The views, occasionally exhibited of it, seem taken from the representation of Sherborne upon Bishop Wyvil's brass, in Salisbury Cathedral. Leland visited the " Cite of Old-Saresbyri" and writes of it in these words : — " this thing hath bene auncient and exceed- ing strong ; but syns the building of iV^2£/-Saresbyri it went totally to mine." Yet these ruins, in Leland's time, were considerable ; for he writes : — " Ther was a paroch of the Holy Rode beside in OM Sareshyri; and an other over the est gate, whereof yet some tokens remayne." He also says : — '' I do not perceyve that ther wer any mo gates in Old Sares- hyri than 2 ; one by est, and an other by west. Without eche of these gates was a fair suburbe. And in the est suburbe was a paroch chirch of S. /o/i?i,- and there yet is a chapelle standinge. There hath bene houses in tyme of mind inha- bited in the est suburbe of Old-Saresbyri ; but now ther is not one house neither within Old- Sareshyri, nor without it, in- habited. Ther was a right fair and strong castelle within Old-Saresbyri longging to the Erles of Saresbyri, especially the * John Lambert, C.B., " Modern Legislation as a Chapter in our His- tory," London, Eyre and Spottiswoode, 1865, p. 6. 2 The Rev. Canon Jackson remarks upon this (" Wiltshire Magazine,' vol. I, p. 162, ;/^/^) :— " The presentations in the SaHsbury registers are to * St. Peter's, Old Sarum,' The last Rector was William Colville, pre- sented A.D. 1412. There was one presentation by the Crown, in 1381, to the Free Chapel in the Castle of Sarum." 46 St7'af ford-sub- Castle. Longespees. I read that one Gualterus^ was the first Erie, after the conquest, of it. Much notable rumus building of this castelle yet there remayneth." But the work of destruction went on with rapidity, and, about a century later, when poor Pepys visited Old Sarum, the very solitude of the place affrighted him ; to use his own words : — " So all over the plain by the sight of the steeple to Salisbury by night ; but before I came to the town, I saw a great fortification, and there light, and to it, and in it ; and find it prodigious, so as to fright me to be in it all alone at that time of night, it being dark. I understand since it to be that that is called Old Sarum." This was on the tenth of June, 1668. Pepys then proceeded on his way to the " George Inn," at Salisbury, where he " lay in a silk bed ; and very good diet." STRATFORD-SUB-CASTLE. This village lies immediately beneath Old Sarum, on the western side, between it and the Avon. The village derives its name — Strat-ford — from being near the "ford of the street" — or Roman road to Dorchester, which here crosses the Avon. 2 It has been erroneously stated that the Manor House at Stratford, now the residence of the Incumbent of the parish, was the birth-place of William Pitt, first Earl of Chatham. The estate certainly belonged to his ancestors, the Pitts of Boconnoe (in Cornwall), and no doubt William Pitt passed many of his early days at Stratford, during the residence of his father there; but William Pitt was born in the parish of St. James, West- minster. His " political" birth, however, may almost be said to have taken place at Stratford, for he commenced his political career, in 1735, as ^^^^ of the representatives of the borough of Old Sarum. The parish church of Stratford is a debased perpendicular building, the western portion having been rebuilt in the reign of Queen Anne (1711). It contains one interesting relic of former days — an hour-glass stand, which is placed on the left- ^ Walter D'Eureux, son of Edward "the Sheriff," and founder of Bradenstoke Priory, near Chippenham. - Ante, pp. 16, 17. Hour-glass Stands. 47 hand side of the pulpit (Fig. i6.) The hour-glass, by which bygone preachers regulated the length of their discourses, 1 T Fig. 16. Houe-glass in Stratford Church. is gone. That some succeeded but indifferently in finding matter upon which to discourse for the allotted sixty minutes, is probable ; among such were «' — those guho guhen ther matter fails Run out \}i\tx glasses with idell tales." Hour-glass stands were generally placed at the preacher's right- hand, but the rule has exceptions, as in the instance at Stratford. 48 Hour-glass stands. The use of the hour-glass in churches seems to have been intro- duced, or at all events to have become more general, after the Reformation; when it, with a bracket or stand for its reception, formed a regular part of the pulpit-furniture. During the Com- monwealth this use of the hour-glass was almost universal, this was the period, when ' ' Gifted brethren, preached by A camal hour-glass."^ The earliest notices of pulpit hour-glasses are of the sixteenth century. Among the accounts of Christ Church, St. Catherine's, Aldgate, under the year 1564, this entry occurs : — " Paid for an hour-glass that hangeth by the pulpitt when the preacher doth make a sermon, that he may know how the hour passeth away." In the Preface to the Bishop's Bible, printed by John Day, in 1569, Archbishop Parker is represented with an hour-glass at his right hand. In the churchwardens' accounts of Lambeth, under the year 1579, is the entry that is. 4d. was " payd to York, for the frame in which the hower standeth." There is also a very interesting and curious hour-glass stand, in Leigh church, Kent, which bears the date 15*7, unfortunately the third figure is missing.^ Usually these frames are of iron, but an hour-glass stand of massive silver existed, until some twenty years since, in St. Dunstan's church. Fleet Street, when it was melted down, and made into two staif-heads for the parish beadles. That pulpit hour-glasses were in very general use seems certain. The preacher in the series of designs known as Holbein's " Dance of Death" has an hour-glass beside him, in his pulpit ; and Hogarth, in his " Sleeping Congregation," has introduced an hour-glass at the left-hand side of the preacher. In some sermons, allusions are made to the hour- glass as a regular part of the appointments of the pulpit : — " for my own part," writes Dr. South, ^ " I never thought a pulpit, a cushion, and an hour-glass, such necessary means of salvation, but that much of the time and labour which is spent about ^ Hudibras, Part I., canto iii., v. 1061. 2 Engraved by Fairholt, in his paper on " Pulpit Hour- Glasses," "Journ. Brit. Archseol. Asso,," vol. III., pp. 301 — 301. •* In his forty-ninth sermon. Dr. South was born in 1633 and died in 1716. Hour-glass stands. " 49 them, might be much more profitably employed in catechising youth from the desk." And again, in his fifth sermon is the following passage : — " Teaching is not a flow of words, nor the draining of an hozir-glass, but an effectual procuring ; that a man comes to know something which he knew not before, or to know it better." Even the presence of such a silent monitor was insufficient to restrain such enthusiastic talkers as some of the Puritan preachers, who inflicted discourses of two hours or more in duration on their congregations. Instances are on record of jests, made by the preacher himself, on the length of such sermons. Thus, there is prefixed to a book entitled " The Tales and Jests of Mr. Hugh Peters" (1663), a portrait of that jester-preacher, he is represented as turning an hour- glass that he holds in his hand, and exclaiming : — " I know you are good fellows, stay and take another glass." A similar tale is told of Daniel Burgess, the celebrated Nonconformist divine, at the beginning of the last century. Upon one occa- sion, whilst preaching against drunkenness, he permitted him- self to be so carried away by his subject, that the hour-glass had run out before his discourse was near its conclusion. Seeing this, he reversed the glass, at the same time saying : — '•'Brethren, I have somewhat more to say on the nature and consequences of drunkenness, so lefs have the other glass — and then !" — the usual phrase adopted by topers at protracted sittings. L'Estrange, in one of his fables, speaks of a tedious "holder- forth," who was " three-quarters through his second glass f^ and the congregation, as might be imagined, being fatigued with his discourse, " a good, charitable sexton took compassion of the auditory, and procured their deliverance by saying, ' Pray, sir, be pleased, when you have done, to leave the key under the door,' and so the sexton departed, and the teacher followed him soon after." The use of the hour-glass probably lingered on in country churches, but they ceased to be in anything like general use after the Restoration. Roman Catholic preachers used the hour-glass as well as Protestant divines. There is extant an account of the fall of a house in Blackfriars, where a party of Romanists were assembled for worship ; the event took place in 1623. The preacher, a priest named Drury, is described as "having on a surplice, girt about his middle with a linen girdle, and E 50 Heale House. a tippet of scarlet on both his shoulders. He was attended by a man that brought after him his book and >^^z/;'-glass," which hour-glass he set on the table beside him when he commenced preaching.^ But there were those who denounced the use of the hour- glass in preaching, prominent among such were some enthusiasts who arose in Edinburgh, in 1681, and styled themselves the " Sweet Singers of Israel." Among other things, they renounced the limiting the Lord's mind by glasses (hour-glasses). We now bid adieu to Old Sarum and its associations, and wend our way, along the pleasantly- wooded valley of the Avon, to Great Durnford. After we pass Little Durnford, we may see on the opposite side of the Avon, the village and church of Woodford, visited by the Society in 1865. The church contains some Norman work, which, however, has been " restored." Leland writes : — " The Bishopes of Saresbyri had a proper place at Wodford. Bishop Shakeston'^ puUid it down bycause it was sumwhat yn ruine." A little farther on we descend a steep hill, scooped out by the Avon in past geological ages, and before us lies HEALE HOUSE. This is but a portion of the original mansion. It is one of the many hiding-places in which Charles 11. found shelter after the battle of Worcester. To use the Royal fugitive's own words : — " I went directly away to a widow gentle- woman's house, one Mrs. Hyde, some four or five miles from Salisbury, where I came into the house just as it was almost dark, with Robin Philips^ only, not intending at first to make myself known." Mrs. Hyde, however, immediately recognised him, having seen him some years before when he passed through Salisbury with his father. She was " so trans- ported with joy and loyalty towards him, that at supper, though his Majesty was set at the lower end of the table, yet the good gentlewoman had much ado to overcome herself and not to carve to him first ; however, she could not refrain from drinking to him in a glass of wine, and giving ' Clark, " The Fatal Vespers," London, 1657. " Nicholas Shaxton, Bishop of Salisbury, resigned 1539. ^ Colonel Robert Philips, who at that time lived at Salisbury. Charles II. at Heale House. 5 1 him two larks, when others had but one." After supper he made himself known to Mrs. Hyde, and it was arranged that he should leave the house on the following morning, as if intending to take his departure, and not return again till night. " So Robin Philips and I took our horses," says Charles in the narrative which he himself dictated to Pepys, " and went as far as Stonehenge ; and there we staid looking at the stones for some time, and returned back again to Heale, the place where Mrs. Hyde lived, about the hour she appointed ; when I went up into the hiding-hole, that was very convenient and safe, and staid there all alone some four or five days." At the end of this time, the arrange- ments for his escape to the coast were completed, and he left Heale House at two o'clock in the morning, going out by the backway. Charles is said to have beguiled the time at Stonehenge by counting and recounting the stones, and according to Colonel Philips, " the King's arithmetic gave the lie to the fabulous tale that these stones cannot be told alike twice together." " Neer Wilton sweet, huge heapes of stones are found, But so conflis'd, that neither any eie Can coitnt them just, nor reason reason try What force them brought to so unhkely ground." In a play, the Birth of Merlin^, the same idea is expressed. Merlin thus addresses his mother : — ' ' And when you die, I will erect a monument Upon the verdant plains of Salisbury, — No king shall have so high a sepulchre, — With pendulous stones, that I will hang by art, Where neither lime nor mortar shall be used — A dark enigma to the memory, For none shall have the power to ntnnber them ; A place that I will hallow for your rest ; Where no night-hag shall walk, nor were-wolf tread, Where Merlin's mother shall be sepulchred." In reference to the hiding-hole at Heale, it may be men- tioned that, in those days, country-houses were frequently provided with such secret chambers, in which refugees might live concealed from all but the master and mistress of the mansion ; or known besides, at the utmost, to one or two ^ This play has been ascribed to Shakespeare, the first edition known was published in 1662. E 2 52 Hiding-hole in the Close, Salisbury, confidential servants. Usually these " hiding holes" were very straitened and inconvenient. Father Garnet, who suffered for his guilty knowledge of the Gunpowder Treason, remained for some time in such a secret chamber at Hend- lip Hall, near Worcester, in company with another Jesuit, named Hall. But the smallness of the place at length com- pelled them to come forth, and they were carried off as prisoners by Sir Henry Bromley. Frequently, the approach to such chambers could only be gained by removing cer- tain boards in the floor or the stair-case ; they seem also to have been situated under the roofs of houses, for we find it directed that " if there be a loft towards the roof of the house, in which there appears no entrance out of any other place or lodging, it must of necessity be opened and looked into, for these be ordinary places of hovering" (hiding). An ingeniously concealed " hiding-hole" was discovered a few years since, in a wainscoted summer-house, in the garden behind Mr. Morris' residence, in the Close, SaHsbury. A spring was accidentally touched, and a panel immediately opened, disclosing a small cupboard with a shelf in it ; this shelf is sliding, and, when removed, access is gained to a small door, only twelve or fourteen inches wide, on the right- hand side of the cupboard. This door is kept shut from the outside by the sliding shelf; it may also be fastened by the occupant of the hiding-place, on the inside, by means of an iron hasp and staple, which can be secured by an iron pin having a hole in its bent top \ through this hole a cord was intended to be passed to fasten the pin to the staple. Behind the door is a very narrow, steep ascent, formed by the arch of the chimney of a hidden fire-place ; this leads to the joists above the ceiling of the summer-house, and thence to the hiding-place, which is over the entrance door of the summer- house, and apart from its main ceiling. Here is a wooden platform, so contrived as to allow a person to sit or lie down ; and through a chink, left in the carved ornamental facing of the building, it is possible for a person so concealed to see what is going on outside, and to observe the approach of any- one. At the time of the discovery of this "hiding-hole," there was found in it a mattress and a handsomely worked blue velvet pillow, both of which fell to pieces upon being touched. There was likewise found a drinking-horn, the metal rim of which had been removed, this vessel, being a veritable Netton. 53 " tumbler," was inverted upon the boards. There are other concealed chambers in the mansion itself. The earliest known lease of the property, granted by the Dean and Chapter of Salisbury, is dated Oct. 4, 1660, and allusion is made in it to the surrender of a former lease. NETTON. After passing Heale House, we come to the hamlet of Netton. An entry in the Saxon Chronicle, under the year 508, gives much interest to this name. It is as follows : — " Now Cerdic and Cynric slew a British King whose name was Natan-leod^ and 5000 men with him. Then after that the land was called Natan-kaga, as far as Cerdic's ford." According to Dr. Guest there never was a British king of the name of Natanleod, and he conceives that it was not a proper name, but a title of honour. The word is formed from the Welsh term ^lawt, a " sanctuary," and would, according to all analogy, be known to the Saxons as Nat-e (gen. Nat-aii) ; Leod, though not found in Anglo-Saxon dictionaries, occurs in Anglo-Saxon poems with the sense of "Prince." The whole word would thus mean " Prince of the sanctuary," this according to Dr. Guest, was a title borne by Ambrosius, who died in the before-mentioned year (508), and of whom and the "sanctuary" more will be said hereafter under the head of Amesbury. Cerdic's ford is supposed to be Chard-ford, a small hamlet below Salisbury. The territory called Natan-leaga (or the Leas of the Nat-e) consisted probably of the woodlands which stretched from the Avon to the Test and Itchin. At all events, scattered over this district, which includes not only a portion of Wilts but also of Hants, are to be found memorials of Britain's early chieftain — Natanleod. There is " Net-ley," near Southampton. The hamlet, " Net-ton," through which we are passing, and which is but a corruption of the Anglo-Saxon Nate-tun, i.e., " the village of the Nat-e." And then, on the south-eastern border of Clarendon Wood, not far from Salisbury, is (or was) a place called " Net-ley" coppice.^ Following the windings of the Avon we reach Great Durn- ford. 1 See Jones, "The Names of Places in Wilts," in "Wilts Mag.," vol. xiv., pp. 262 — 264 ; Guest " Early English Settlements in Britain," in "Salisbury vol. Archaeol. Inst.," p. 58. 54 Great Di{rjifo7'd. — Oghury Camp. GREAT DURNFORD CHURCH Has very rich Norman north and south doorways and chancel arch. The font also is Norman, with an intersecting arcade. There is a curious brass (1670) to the memory of Edward Younge, of Little Durnford, Mary his wife, and fourteen children. A copy of Bishop Jewel's " Apology of the Church of England," ordered by Convocation after the Reformation, is preserved in this church, chained to a desk. Great Durnford House, now the residence of John Pinckney, Esq., was once a seat of the Hungerfords. Evelyn notes in his diary, July 22, 1654, "We dined at a ferme of my uncle Hun- gerfords, called Darneford Magna, situate in a valley under the plaine, most sweetly watered, abounding in troutes." Unfor- tunately the jack in the Avon have now greatly reduced the number of " troutes" in that river. After leaving Great Durnford Church and crossing the Avon we come to Lake House, the residence of the Rev. E. Duke. Before doing so, however, some will perhaps visit OGBURY CAMR This earth-work is of very simple construction. It includes an area of about 62 acres, and is defended by an earthen bank, about t^'^ feet in height, without an accompanying ditch ; there is an entrance on the eastern side. Stukeley thus describes it : — " On the east side of the river Avon, by Great Durnford, is a very large camp, covering the whole top of a hill, of no determinate figure, as humouring the height it stands on ; it is entirely without any ditch, the earth being heaped up very steep in the nature of a parapet, when dug away level at the bottom. I doubt not but this was a camp of the Britons, and perhaps an oppidum, where they retired at night from the pasturage upon the river, with their cattle; within it are many little banks carried straight, and meeting one another at right-angles, square, oblong parallels, and som oblique, as the meres and divisions between ploughed lands ; yet it seems never to have been ploughed ; and there is like- wise a small squarish work intrenched, no bigger than a large tent ; these seem to me the distinctions and divisions for the several quarters and lodgments of the people within This camp has an aspect very old ; the prominent part of the rampart in many places quite consumed by time, though the PalcBolithic Implements found at Lake. 55 steep remains perfect ; one being the natural earth the other factitious." Sir Richard Hoare confirms the accuracy of the above description, but considers that the " small squarish work" is of very recent date. It is singular that so few relics are to be found in, and near, the camps of this neighbourhood. I have hunted over Ogbury, Chlorus's Camp, and Old Sarum, with the well-known archaeo- logist, Mr. Evans, whose eye is perhaps the keenest in England for a worked flint, and yet, during the entire day, we scarcely found a specimen worth taking home. On the opposite side of the Avon to Ogbury, capping the hill above Lake House, is a patch of Quaternary gravel, coloured yellow on the plan of the route. In this gravel palaeolithic implements have been found ; but, as yet, they have not been met with in any similar deposit higher up in the valley. The implement shown in Fig. 17 is from the Fig. 17. Paleolithic Implement, found at Lake, k- Lake gravel, and was found by Mr, Tiffin, jun., of Salisbury, in 1865 ; it is now preserved in the Blackmore Collection. This spot seems also to have been a favorite resort with the people of the later Stone Age (Neolithic), for the surface-soil 56 Lake House. is perfectly strewn with waste flakes and other rejected pieces of flint cutlery. At a little distance, in the direction of Woodford, an Anglo- Saxon interment was discovered a few years since. LAKE HOUSE. This mansion, with its many-gabled roof and its trimly kept yew hedges, is one of the most picturesque ohjects that lies in the route between Salisbury and Stonehenge. It is of the time of James I. At an early period there seems to have been a religious house at Lake. And the first gift to Bradenstoke Priory by Walter, of Salisbury, its founder (William L), included the " Capella de Lacha," with all its appurtenances ; one Richard Cotele also gave a virgate of land in " Lacha." At the Dis- solution, the land and tythes belonging to the chapel of Lake were leased by the Crown to Richard South of Ambresbury : were afterwards granted to the Partridge family; and, in 1599, were purchased by George Duke.^ The taste of its owners has filled Lake House with objects that merit a more careful inspection, than it will be possible for us to bestow upon them in the limited time at our disposal.^ Built into the wall of the porch, as we enter, may be seen an interesting alabaster tablet, very similar to one preserved in the Salisbury Museum, shown in Fig. 18. The Lake specimen differs from the Salisbury example in having the figures of St. Katherine and St. Helen in the back-ground, and in some few of the details. In the middle of the Salisbury example is the head of St. John the Baptist in a charger, on either side are St. Peter and St. Thomas of Canterbury. The head of St. John, represented with long hair and beard, the eyes closed in death, rests upon a circular disc. Above is a small nude figure,^ with the hands clasped, surrounded by an aureola of pointed-oval form, and supported by two angels. Beneath is the upper part of a figure, with upraised hands, probably Christ rising from the sepulchre. On the dexter side of the tablet is St. Peter, with a key and book ; on the other side is a mitred figure vested in a cope, holding an archiepiscopal cross- 1 R. C. Hoare, " Underditch," p. 137. - It should be borne in mind that Lake House is a private residence which was kindly thrown open by Mr. Duke to those members of the Wilts Archaeo- logical and Natural History Society who made this excursion in 1876. ^ The figure is represented in a crouching posture in the Lake example. Fig. 18. Alabaster Tablet (Salisbury Museum). 58 Mediceval objects in the Lake Collection. staff and a book.^ This probably represents St. Thomas of Canterbury. The correct explanation of the constituent parts of this, and similar, tablets has been much discussed ; pro- bably the figures are intended to represent the persons men- tioned, but the reason or meaning of their being put together in this particular way still remains to be discovered. Many very interesting objects are to be seen in Mr. Duke's collection. Among these may be noticed two pair of hand- some enameled fire-dogs. They are examples of a peculiar, although rather coarse, kind of enameling, usually on brass (not on copper), by the cJiampleve process, as practised in England during the reign of Elizabeth and in subsequent times. The process consisted of inlaying enamels, fusible probably at a low temperature, in the interstices of a pattern in relief Several fire-dogs of this work have been preserved, and on some of these are the royal arms.'^ Perhaps the most important feature in Mr. Duke's collec- tion is the series of objects, exhumed by his late father, from some burial-mounds in the immediate neighbourhood. The great explorer of our Wiltshire barrows. Sir Richard Colt Hoare, refers especially to the examination of some tumuli on Lake Down by the late Rev. E. Duke, F.S.A. : — "I omitted," he says, ''those (barrows) numbered 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. These claim a separate owner, under whose immediate inspection they were opened, and under whose fostering care the very singular and curious relicks which they produced, are cau- tiously preserved, at his venerable and picturesque old mansion-house in the adjoining village of Lake. These five tumuli were opened by the Rev. Edward Duke, in the year 1806, and I am happy to think that the zeal he shewed in his first antiquarian researches were so amply remunerated, as to induce him to resume them on some future occasion ; for few barrows ever proved so interesting as Nos. 19 and 20. A great similarity attended the three first of these tumuli, No. 16, 17, 18, as they each contained an interment of burned bones, and each produced a small lance-head^ of brass^ ; but though No. 20 had also a lance-head, the uniformity was most pleasantly broken by the discovery of four curious little articles of bone, which were intermixed with the ashes and burned bones. They are a perfect novelty, and had their meaning and use in ^ In the Lake example, the staff terminates in -^ fleiir-de-tis. ^ ** Arch. Jour." vol. xix. , p. 291. ^ Dagger-blade. "* Bronze. Ancient British objects in the Lake Collection. 59 British times ; though in the more modern and enHghtened period of the present day, we are at a loss to conjecture what that meaning and what that usage were."^ Sir R. C. Hoare has figured the obverse and reverse of each of these objects.^ They are rectangular pieces of bone, measuring barely three- quarters of an inch in length, rather more than half an inch in A^dth, and are of no great thickness. They are flat on one surface and convex on the other, some of them are stained of a greenish hue from having been in contact with bronze, the surfaces are rubbed smooth, and a different design has been worked upon six of them, the other two being left blank. The designs consist of crosses, and of diamond-shaped figures. It has been suggested that they were used in playing some kind of game, or, possibly, in casting lots. These interesting objects were found in a cist, with burned bones ; the cist, over which the tumulus had been raised was sunk to the depth of 20 inches below the surface-level of the ground. The late Rev. E. Duke was of opinion that these bone " tesserae" had been enclosed in a wooden box ; fragments of which were found in the cist. Barrow No. 21, of the Lake group, seems to have been raised over a female — some woman of distinction — if we may judge from the number and importance of the trinkets buried with her.^ " The most remarkable of these, and unique in size, though not in pattern, was an ornament in amber, ten inches in height and above three in breadth ; it is formed of eight distinct tablets, and being strung together, formed one ornament, as may be distinctly seen by the per- forations at top and bottom."* The late Dr. Thurnam has described these objects rather fully. " They occur," he says, " in sets of three, six, and eight. These plates, found with seven interments, five of them burnt, are about a quarter-inch thick, rounded at the upper and lower margins, and vary in size from one to three inches in length, and from three-quarters to one-and-a-half inch in width. In the vertical edges are a series of equi-distant perforations, which, according to the size, are four, six, or even ten in number. The perforations mostly pass through from edge to edge, and are bored with great accuracy, probably with a ^ " Anc, Wilts," vol. i. p. 212. " Ibid, Tumuli Plate xxxi. ^ We should, however, bear in mind that, among modern savages, the warrior wears more ornaments than his wife. ■* " Anc. Wilts," vol. i., p. 213. -6© Amber ornaments found in Tumuli^ at Lake. metallic borer, worked most likely with a bow-drill. The plates are always accompanied by beads of the same material, and there can be no doubt that the two were strung together, so as to form symmetrical ornaments analogous to those of jet found in the barrows of Derbyshire and North Britain. This combination was not realised by Sir Richard Hoare, who was of opinion that the plates were strung together, and worn lengthwise on the breast. The MS. notes of the late Rev. E. Duke, kindly lent me by his son, describing the barrow which yielded the set of plates of largest size, eight in number, do not expressly name these tablets, but merely say ' the skeleton was found with rows of red amber beads around the neck.' In another of the Lake barrows, also about two miles from Stone- henge, opened by Mr. Duke, was ' a skeleton having on a necklace of amber beads,' to which, no doubt, belongs the set of three smaller plates with four-fold perforations, still to be seen at Lake House. Through the kind aid of the present owner, I have succeeded in constructing models of these two complex collars, in a style which must closely approximate to that of the original ornaments.^ " The perforations in the three plates of the lesser collars, as well as in the four outer plates of the large, run straight through from edge to edge (see Fig. 19);'^ but in the four larger and more central plates of the latter, only the upper and lower perforations run through the plates, whilst the eight which are intermediate go a little way in and pass out again, each two adjoining perforations communicating right and left by a curvilinear canal (see Fig. 19). This very ingenious method has probably been contrived to ensure the better set of the large ornaments, as well as for more security ; it being obvious that if the through-and-through perforations had been continued from one to the other end of the ornament, the breaking of one or two sets of threads might have resulted in the loss of great part of the whole. " It is to be observed that this large collar is of most un- usual dimensions. In addition to the eight large dividing plates it appears to have comprised in its construction nearly ^ " Archasologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 506, Fig. 199. The size of this illustration is too large to admit of my using it in this work. It is given by Mr. Long, " Wilts. Mag.," vol. xvi., p. 181. - I am indebted to the Society of Antiquaries of London for the loan of this wood-block, and of Figs. 34 and 35. Amber ornaments found in Tiuniili. at Lake. 6r two hundred beads ; and when arranged in an easy curve, to have measured fifteen inches across, and twenty-five inches in length, in the lower curvature. When worn, it must have ex- tended from shoulder to shoulder, hanging half-way down to the waist. None of the dividing-plates in these ornaments present any trace of surface decoration, such as the favorite British chevron, so often seen on the corresponding pieces of the jet necklaces." Fig. 19, Amber dividing-plates from half the Collar shown as TRANSPARENT. FrOM A BARROW AT LAKE, WiLTS.^ §. Examples of amber beads, of different forms, in the Lake Collection, are shown in Fig. 20. Ten buttons or studs of amber. Fig. 21, were found in a barrow at Lake. Indeed amber objects are of frequent occurrence in the barrows of Wiltshire; thirty-three interments are recorded by Sir R. C. Hoare,^ with which ornaments of this substance were found. The amber, in every instance, is of the red transparent kind, which, as well as the pale variety, is found in England at Cromer (Norfolk) and on the Yorkshire coast. The amber objects in the Lake Collection are in rather a frail condition, and, if handled at all, should be touched with great care. I feel sure that Mr. Duke will be thankful for any hints that may enable him to arrest the decay of these inte- resting specimens. The most remarkable amber object, met with in this country, is a drink ing-cup. It was found in a barrow at Hove, 1 '•Archaeologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 505, Fig. 198. ^ Six by inhumation, and twenty-seven by cremation. 62 Amber ornaments found in Tumuli^ at Lake. near Brighton. The in- terment had taken place in an oaken coffin, and associatedwith the amber cup were found a double- ed2;ed drilled stone axe, and a bronze dagger. The cup is three and a half inches in diameter, two inches and a half in height, and about one tenth of an inch in thick- ness ; its capacity is rather more than half a pint. It is perfectly smooth inside and out, and seems to have been turned on a lathe. Such an object Fig. 21, Amber Ornaments. Lake, Wilts.' \. may, possibly, have come by commerce into Bri- tain ; and, indeed, amber is one of the articles men- tioned by Strabo as ex- ported from Celtic Gaul to this county.^ With an unburnt body, in the barrow at Lake which yielded the large collar of amber, were two pairs of small cir- cular discs of gold. Two of these, the size of flo- ^ " Archseologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 503, Fig. 195. - Evans, "Anc. Stone Impts. Gt. Brit.," pp. 402, 403. ,.• OSl^ DQ \A M ^ NN H , M bjO < f^ \A H Ml < l/^ ^ d. cT Ph ■4-t . ^ M •^ Q pq « H « ^ < < v» • (M M ^ Sepulchral Urns in the Lake Collection. 63 rins, are decorated with double circles of zigzags. The other two, quite plain, are much smaller. From the position in which they were found, in close proximity to the skull, they have been regarded as pendants for the ears. Among the other interesting specimens preserved in the Lake Collection are fragments of charred woven-cloth, obtained from an urn in one of the Lake barrows. A similar specimen is in the possession of Miss Cunnington ; it was found in one of the Upton tumuli, opened by her grandfather. Such ex- amples of textile fabrics from burial-mounds are not at all common.^ There are also, in the Lake Collection, two grooved whet- stones (found in a tumulus on Normanton Down), several bronze torques, and five bronze dagger-blades, all obtained from the neigbouring barrows. Nor is the series of pottery from these barrows at all unimportant, it includes an example of a cinerary urn with overhanging rim, much finer than either of the two figured by Sir R. C. Hoare. "The bold over- hanging rim, which occupies one-fourth of the height of this urn, is profusely ornamented with impressed herring-bone and decussating lines ; below the rim are two other rows of chevrons ; whilst along the shoulder a single row of circular indentations is carried, made by the finger, or rounded end of a stick."- This specimen was found in 1806, and is especially noticed by Sir R. C. Hoare. Two other fine examples of this type of urn are in the Lake Collection. An example may also be seen at Lake of the type of sepulchral urn provided with a border in place of a rim, this vessel is quite plain, and has bowed handles ; it may have been obtained from either the Lake or the Durnford group of barrows. Sir Richard Hoare has figured^ an " incense cup," preserved in the Lake collection. The late Dr. Thurnam considered this specimen to be a double vessel, there is a division in the middle, so that either the obverse or reverse side could have been used.* Nor should the visitor omit to notice a (very) small frag- ^ There is preserved in the Blackmore Collection, a fragment of woven- cloth (charred) which was found in a tumulus in Butler's County, Ohio. ^Thurnam, "Anc. Brit. Barrows," in " Archaeologia," vol. xliii., part2, p. 345. ^ " Anc. Wilts," vol. i., p. 213, pi. xxxi, ■* " Archaeologia," vol. xliii,, part 2, p. 361, note. 64 Celt-mould in the Lake Collection. ment of the wooden handle of a bronze dagger, it is elabo- rately ornamented with minute gold pins, that have been driven into it so as to form a pattern ; it was found in a tumulus on Normanton Down. Sir R. C. Hoare obtained a hafted bronze dagger from " Bush Barrow," Normanton, the blade was one of the largest found in Wiltshire (lo^ inches long) and the wooden handle was ornamented with an in- finity of gold pins of almost microscopic size, the ends of * which formed a beautiful zigzag. pattern. ^ Many bone pins, some stained green from having been in contact with bronze ; vitrified and jet beads ; bronze armillge and rings ; and other personal ornaments are included in the Lake Collection. The torques, armillse, and rings were found during some alterations to the road between Amesbury and Salisbury. A fragment of a spear-head, in the collection, is not from a local barrow, but was found in making the Kennet and Avon Canal, about the year 1810. The three portions of a circle of metal, ornamented with (query " artificial") gems, is not a local specimen ; it was. found, in 1802, in a stream-work, called Trenoweth (in Corn- wall), and was presented to Mr. Duke by W. Rashleigh, Esq., of Menabilly.2 In the Lake Collection is also preserved a highly-finished mould of syenite, which was intended to be used in casting bronze celts. The shape of the mould is that of a four- sided prism, and the cavities, worked into two of its sides, show that it was intended for casting socketed celts of two sizes ; one of which was for casting celts provided with two loops. A second prism, the duplicate of this must have existed to complete the mould ; notches are made in the Lake specimen (and no doubt existed in the other portion) in order to enable the workmen to adjust the two halves with precision. Socketed celts with two loops are not common, but there is evidence to show that socketed celts, provided with one or two loops, were in contemporary use with spear-heads of bronze of rather elegant — as one may say, advanced — forms. A very remarkable mould of hone-stone, found in Anglesea, serves to prove this ; like the Lake specimen, it is a four-sided prism, but it has cavities on all four sides, three are for casting ^ Thurnam, " Archseologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 459 : Hoare, "Anc. Wilts," vol. I., p. 202, plate xxvii. 2. ^ This specimen has been figured and described. *' Archaeol.," vol. xvi. Amesbury. 65 the heads of spears or darts, all of different types, and one is for casting socketed celts with two loops. The mould in the Lake Collection was found near Nine Mile Water, in the parish of Bulford, almost opposite the tenth mile- stone from Salisbury to Marlborough, but on the opposite (north) side of the stream. The precise date of the find is not recorded, but, according to Mr. Edwards of Amesbury, to whom I am indebted for tracing out the history of this spe- cimen, it was found prior to 1833. AMESBURY. The name of this place was originally Caer Etnrys and after- wards Ambreshury, i.e. the "burgh" or town of Ambrosius. Ambrosius became a King in Britain in the year 464, and for 45 years carried on a successful struggle against the advancing Saxons. In the Welsh Triads, Amesbury is generally men- tioned as Caer Caradoc, i.e. the town of Caradoc, a British chieftain, who, after the death of Ambrosius, appears to have been one of the most powerful in South Britain. Amesbury remains as a memorial of the Primitive Chris- tianity of Britain — '' a glimmering spark, just visible through the murky darkness of intervening ages — proving that, what- ever we may have subsequently owed to Augustin, Rome was not the first to kindle the torch of truth in Britain." The Welsh Triads mention this place as the site of a great monastery in which " there were 2400 saints, that is, there were 100 for every hour of the day and night in rotation, per- petuating the praise of God without intermission." Hence, as Dr. Guest observes : — " The choir of Ambrosius was probably, in the middle of the fifth century, the monastery of Britain — the centre from which flowed the blessings of Christianity and civilization." Amesbury is of much interest in legendary history as the place of Qneen Guinevere's penitential retirement. Queen Guinevere had fled the court, and sat There in the holy house at Almesbury Weeping, — Tennyson. A Benedictine nunnery was founded here, about the year 980, by Queen Elfrida, to expiate the murder of her stepson Edward, at Corfe. In T117, Henry II. expelled the nuns for dissolute living, and gave it to the great convent of Fontevrault, F 66 Eve?its relating to Ameshury. in Anjou, whence it received a prioress and twenty-four nuns. It increased in splendour and in royal favour, and became a favourite retreat of ladies of royal or noble birth. On the day of the Assumption, in 1283, Mary, sixth daughter of Edward I., in company with thirteen ladies of noble birth, took the veil here ; and here, in 1292, died Eleanor, Queen of Henry III. Katharine of Aragon lodged within its walls on her first arrival in England, in 1501. Florence Bormewe, the last abbess but one, resisted the attempts of Cromwell's emissaries to induce her to surrender her monastery into the King's hands. " Albeit we have used as many ways with her as our poor wits could attain, yet in the end we could not by any persuasion bring her to any confor- mity, but at all times she resteth and so remaineth in these terms. ' If the King's Highness command me to go from this house I will gladly go, though I beg my bread, and as for pen- sion I care for none.'" One is hardly sorry to learn that the death of the abbess, almost immediately afterwards, saved her from further humiliation. The convent was surrendered by Joan Darell, the last abbess, to Henry VIII. Dec. 4, 1540. After the Dissolution (in April, 1541) the monastery was granted to the Earl of Hertford, afterwards Protector Somerset, who made a residence out of the old buildings, and the Pro- tector's son, Edward, Earl of Hertford, lived here. His second wife was Frances, daughter of Lord Howard of Bindon. Sir George Rodney was so enamoured of this lady, that on her marriage he came to Amesbury, wrote a copy of verses to the countess in his own blood, and then fell on his sword. The property passed by marriage, sale, and inheritance, respectively, to the families of Ailesbury, Boyle, and Queens- berry. William, fourth Duke of Queensberry, died in t8io^ and, in 1824, his estate was purchased by Sir Edmund Antrobus, whose son is the present owner. The Old Mansion, on the site of which the present House is erected, was formerly the residence of Charles, third Duke of Queensberry, and his charming Duchess — Prior's *' Kitty, beautiful and young, And wild as colt untam'd. " In their hospitable mansion Gay found a peaceful home, and here he is said to have written the " Beggar's Opera." Johnson informs us that the Duke undertook the management of the " Gatmtlef Pipes 7nade at Aviesbury. 67 poet's little property, and dispensed it out to him according to his wants. In a letter to Swift after Gay's death, the Duchess writes : — " I have lost in him the usefiillest limb of my mind. This is an odd expression, but I cannot explain my notion otherwise." She died in 1777; the Duke survived her but a short time. Amesbury Church (repaired, in 1852, by Sir Edmund Antrobus) is supposed to have been that of the Abbey. It is a fine large cruciform edifice, of Early English character, with a low square central tower. There are some rich decorated windows to the south of the chancel. Before we take our leave of Amesbury, something must be said about a branch of manufacture formerly carried on there — that of tobacco-pipes. Fuller, in his " Worthies of Wiltshire," says : — *' The best tobacco-pipes for shape and colour (as curiously sized) are made at Amesbury, in this county. ' Gauntlet' pipes, having that mark at the heel, are the best. They may be called chimneys portable in pockets." Why they were called " gauntlet" pipes, we learn from Aubrey. " Ames- bury," he says, " is famous for the best tobacco-pipes in Eng- land, made by Gauntlet, who markes the heele of them with a gauntlet, whence they are called gauntlet pipes. The clay of which they are made is brought from Chittern, in this county." A very fine example of such a "gauntlet" pipe, shown in Fig 22, was for many years in the Museum at Portsmouth ; when that collection was dispersed, this pipe came into my possession, and is now deposited in the Salisbury and South Wilts Museum. On the heel are stamped, in a circle, the words AMSBVRY PIPES, in the middle of which is a right- hand gauntlet, and the initials G.B.; the date 1698 is impressed beneath the circle. The bowl also is ornamented, details of which are given in the engraving. The " gauntlet" pipe repre- sented in Fig. 23,1 is of unusual size; it was found at Ciren- cester by Professor Buckman, who presented it to Mr. W. J. Bernhard Smith. The original measures 4 inches, from the heel to the mouth ; the diameter of which is not less than 2 inches. On the inner surface of the bowl there are diagonal lines and patterns produced by minutely punctured work. The heel of this pipe, one inch and a half in diameter, is impressed with a small circular stamp, eight times repeated, ^ Figured and described in "Archasol. Journal," vol. xxvi,, pp. 285, 286. F 2 68 Attempts to Pii-ate the " Gauntlet" mark. Fig. 22. " Gauntlet" Pipe, made at Amesbury, date 1698. and charged with a right hand, or "gauntlet," on an escut- cheon. The pipe shown in Fig. 24, equals the Cirencester specimen in size ; the tube is perfect, measuring 8^ inches in length. The bowl, elaborately ornamented with dotted patterns, is stamped repeatedly with the maker's name — JAMES FARE. This pipe was dug up at Wigan, in 1769. It was in the Portsmouth Museum, and came into my hands at the same time as the pipe shown in Fig. 22. Fuller relates the ingenious defence of a tobacco-pipe maker who was sued for pirating the "gauntlet" mark, and alleged that the thumb of his gauntlet stood differently to the plaintiffs, and that the hand given dexter or sinister in heraldry is a sufficient difference. During the excavations " Gauntlcf Pipes found at Cirencester and Wiga7i. 69 made at various times in the streets of Salisbury, for drainage purposes, a great many tobacco-pipes, as well as other objects, have been found ; most of these are now preserved in the Fig. 23. " Gauntlet" Pipe, pound at Cirencester, engraved rather more than half-size. 2 ; Fig. 24. Found at Wigan, in 1769. 70 Tobacco-pipes found in Salisbury. Salisbury Museum. Among the tobacco-pipes, so found, are examples of several varieties of "gauntlet" pipes, the marks on the heels of these are represented in the upper row of Fig. 25 ; it will be observed that only one shows the right- hand. Other makers-marks, from specimens found in Salis- bury are shown in Figs. 25 — 30. Fig. 25. Makeks-maeks, on the Heels of Tobacco-pipes found in Salisbury. Fig. 26. Makers-marks, on the Heels of Tobacco-pipes found in Salisbury. Fig. 27. Tobacco-pipe found in Salisbury. Tobacco-pipes found in Salisbury. 71 Fig. 28. Tobacco-pipe found in Salisbury. Fig. 29. Tobacco-pipe found in Salisbuky. Fig. 30. Tobacco-pipe found in Salisbury. 72 The " Gauntlef^ viark pirated in Shropshire. Little is known of the Gauntlets who carried on this manufac- tory at Amesbury. Aubrey alludes to a Mr. William Gauntlet, of Netherhampton, who was born at Amesbury. This family held a good position in the county, and their monuments, from 1672 to 171 3, are to be found in Netherhampton Church, about a mile distant from the village of Quidhampton, through which we are to pass on our way back to Salisbury. The habit of pirating the Amesbury " gauntlet" mark seems to have been not uncommon. The manufacture of tobacco- pipes was extensively carried on at Broseley, in Shropshire, from an early period ; and a " Broseley" is still a familiar term for a tobacco-pipe in the north of England. Why Broseley should have been selected for this branch of manufacture has often excited surprise, for the clay of which the pipes are made is, and (as far as tradition can help us) always has been, obtained from Devon and Cornwall. At all events, Broseley became celebrated for its pipes, but we find that the " gauntlet" was considered to be such a warranty of excellence, that this trade-mark was pirated even there. In a list of pipe-marks used by the Broseley makers, during the seventeenth century, is to be found the device of a " gauntlet," with the initials S. D., probably Samuel Decon, who was alive in 1729. This pipe is in the collection of Mr. Thursfield, of Broseley.^ In the whole of Mr. Thursfield's important collection, only three bowls bear dates, viz. — Richard Legg, 1687 ; John Legg, 1687 ; and John Legg, 1696. All three are therefore of earlier date than the Amesbury pipe shown in Fig. 22. Representations of some of the tobacco-pipes in Mr. Thursfield's collection are shown in Fig. 31 ; among them are to be noticed some, the date of which has been determined. The pipe represented by Fig. 32 has the date 1689, scratched on the bowl, instead of being stamped as usual on the heel of the pipe. Fiff. 32. ^ Papers on Broseley pipes, written by Mr. Llewellynn Jewitt, F.S.A., and Mr. Thursfield, have appeared in "The Reliquary," Jan., 1863. I am indebted to Mr. Jewitt for the loan of the wood-blocks illustrating the Broseley tobacco-pipes. Mr. Thursfield's pipes were nearly all found in the rubbish from the base of Wenlock Abbey, in 181 7. t-.'j^flwiTr.F"* "eRBy.ite/«j» Fig. 31. Old English Tobacco Pipes, made at Broseley, Shropshire. 74 Tobacco-pipes of the Period of Elizabeth. Pipemaking in the early days of its introduction was a very different matter to what it is now. Then, the greater part of the manipulation was performed by the master, and twenty or twenty-four gross was the largest quantity ever burned in one kiln. Each pipe rested on its bowl, and the stem was sup- ported by rings of pipe-clay placed one upon the other as the kiln became filled ; the result was, that at least 20 per cent, were warped or broken in the kiln. At the present time, the preliminary preparation of the clay is performed by men, but the more delicate part is almost entirely entrusted to the hands of women. The pipes are placed in saggers to be burned, after the Dutch mode ; and from 350 to 400 gross, in one kiln, is not an uncommon quantity. The breakages at the present day amount to no more than one per cent. Usually the old pipes are perfectly plain, with the general exception of a milled border running round the mouth, this was impressed by hand, not in a mould. It may also be remarked, that the bowls of many of the older pipes are scraped into form, after having been modelled. About ninety years ago, the pipemakers began to stamp their names and residences on the stems of the pipes instead of the heels. At one time, it was supposed that the size of the bowl of the pipe afforded a guide to the date — the smaller the bowl, the earlier the date. The smallness of the bowl in some early specimens is remarkable, and the fairy origin of such pipes was a popular belief in England, Scotland, and Ireland. A " Fairy Pipe," engraved of its full size, is shown in Fig. 33. Fig. 33. "Fairy Pipe." Fig. 34. Period of Elizabeth. But it is not so much the size, as the fonii, of the bowl that helps us to determine the age of tobacco-pipes, although even Tobacco-pipes of the Period of James I, and Charles I. 75 this cannot be entirely depended upon. The earliest form, which probably dates from the time of Elizabeth, is barrel- shaped. An Elizabethan pipe is sho\vn in Fig. 34, the original was found by Mr. Llewellynn Jewitt, in a cutting on Abbey Hill, near Derby ; and was given by him to the late Mr. Crofton Croker. As may be seen, this specimen bears on its heel a rose ; it is believed to be of Shropshire manufacture. Another example of an Elizabethan pipe is given in Fig. 35, Fig. 35, Period of Elizabeth. Fig. 36. Period of James I. AND Charles I. in this and other instances, when not stated to the contrary, the size of the original is reduced in the engraving. The form shown in Fig. 36 is of the period of James I. and Charles I., and does not materially differ in shape from the preceding specimens. The pipes shown in Fig. 5 1 are to be referred to the reign of Charles I. Fig. 37. Period of Charles I. Of the pipes of this period, a large variety of shapes might be adduced. In Fig. 38, Mr. Jewitt has given four examples taken from engravings of the period. The dates are, i, 1630; 2, 1632 ; 3, 1640 ; 4, 1 64 1. No. 4 is of the same shape as those known to have been in use in the reign of Elizabeth ; the same form continued in use through several reigns. The *]6 Tobacco-pipes of the Period of the Commonwealth. ^ Fig. 38. Fig. 40. 1, 1630 ; 2, 1632 ; 3, 1640; 4, 1641. 1, 1650 ; 2, 1666 ; 3, 1688 ; 4, 1688 ; 5, 1669. usual shapes of the period, however, are those shown in i, 2, and 3. During the time of the Commonwealth and the reign of Charles the Second, the form of the bowl became more bulbous, as shown in Fig. 39, the original was found in Fig. 39. Period of the Commonwealth and Charles II. Devonshire. The examples given in Fig. 40, are copied principally from Tradesmen's tokens. One (2) will be seen to be of the form usually ascribed to William the Third's reign. The dates of these specimens are i, 1650; 5, 1666 (Dun- stable); 3, 1688 (Chipping Norton); 4, probably the same year (Southwark) ; 5, 1669 (Leeds). Pipes were made at Leeds from a peculiar vein of clay found there. Pipes of the reign of William III. seem, more usually, to have had bowls of the elongated form shown in Fig. 41. This seems to be confirmed from the circumstance, that at the place where William's Dutch troops were stationed, pipes of the forms shown in Fig. 42 are most abundant. Barrel- shaped bowls, however, were still in use, as may be seen by the dated example shown in Fig. 32. The long bowl continued in use to the middle of last century, and representations of them may be found on en- gravings of the period. It would seem that the form of the bowl gradually merged from the bulbous into the elongated form of the time of William III., and then passed on to the Tobacco-pipes of the Period of William III. 77 Fig. 41. Period of William III. Fig. 42. wide-mouthed shape of the present day. The heel also changed from the flat form — made to rest the pipe upon during use — to the long pointed " spur" now so common, and which is believed by some to have been introduced by the Dutch ; it is, however, to be seen on one of the pipes represented in Fig. 37. It must be remembered, however, that the Dutch were originally indebted to England for the introduction of pipe-making into their country. Sometimes the bowls of pipes were ornamented, but such specimens are extremely rare. Examples of ornamented pipes have already been given in Figs. 22 and 23. The pipe shown in Fig. 43 was found near Derby, and is in Mr. Jewitt's col- lection. In form it resembles the pipe shown in Fig. 36, and like it may belong to the reign of James I. or Charles I., the form of the letters helps to confirm this opinion. TTdEWITT. Fig. 43. Period of James I. and Charles I. It would not be difficult to enlarge on this subject, but the digression has probably been sufficient already. Let us then make our way to Vespasian's camp. 78 Vespasian^ s Ca7tip, — Amesbury. — Stonehenge. VESPASIAN'S CAMP. This name was imposed by Stukeley, it is locally known as " The Ramparts." The work crowns a densely-wooded hill, which forms the principal feature in the view from the House. The natural position is a strong one, and it is further pro- tected on the eastern and southern sides by the Avon. The ancient lines of defence enclosed an area of 39 acres, and consisted of a single bank, now much mutilated on the eastern side, the defences on the western side are still bold and well- preserved. The camp, which is in the form of scalene triangle, may be a British work, possibly occupied and strengthened by the Romans when, under Vespasian, they were engaged in the conquest of the Belgae. It appears to have had two entrances — north and south — the former still remains perfect. The area of the camp is now divided by the high road which passes Stonehenge, and along which we shall proceed. Our next halt will be at STONEHENGE. We scarcely see Stonehenge from the best point of view in going to it by the road from Amesbury, it is seen to far greater advantage if we approach it by way of the Down from Lake House. Approach it as you may, however, Stonehenge pos- sesses the disadvantage of a reputation ; and when seen for the first time, the feeling is usually that of disappointment. A feeling which gives place to wonder and astonishment as the bulk of the masses of stone is realised, and our minds begin to be exercised as to the way in which these vast blocks have been transported to Salisbury Plain, and as to the means by which they were raised to their present position. The wide expanse of Down that surrounds Stonehenge has a tendency to dwarf its proportions ; "when viewed from a distance," says Mr. Fergusson, '' the vastness of the open tract in which Stonehenge stands takes considerably from its impressiveness, but when the observer gets close to its great monolithic masses the solitary situation lends it a grandeur which scarce any other building of its class can be said to possess."^ Then, again, the visitor frequently arrives at Stonehenge with his mind impressed by the simple architectural beauty of 1 C( Quarterly Review," No. 215, p. 202. Stonehenge. 79 Salisbury Cathedral — separated from it by some eight miles in space, but by what an immeasurable epoch in point of time and culture — there all was refinement, here is but the display of rude barbaric force ; it is like leaving the haunts of civiliza- tion, and — in a few hours — meeting with the savage in his freedom. And yet, the powerful lever of religious fervour prompted the erection of both temples, it is to be seen in the huge stony masses of Stonehenge, and in the heavenward pointing finger of Salisbury spire. " Salisbury Cathedral," writes Dr. Johnson, " and its neighbour Stonehenge are two eminent monuments of art and rudeness, and may show the first essay and the last perfection in architecture."^ But, Stonehenge and Salisbury Cathedral surely teach us more than this. Each testifies to the existence of a religious sentiment, that we would fain believe is present even in the lowest savage; and which, throughout the whole human family, differs but in kind and degree — as does "Our Lady Church" in the valley from the Titanic Temple on Salisbury Plain. Each structure is equally a prayer in stone, although the words of the one may be those of refinement and civiliza- tion, whilst those of the other are but the terse utterances of barbarism. Upon no other subject, probably, have so many opinions been expressed, as upon Stonehenge. Its erection has been attributed by various writers to the Phoenicians, to the Belgae, to the Romans, to the Romano-British, to the Saxons, and to the Danes. Nor would it be very surprising to learn that still another origin for it had been discovered, and that henceforth we are to regard Stonehenge as an assemblage of boulders that were drifting southward during the Glacial Period, falling in with an eddy, their ice-borne course was arrested, they settled down in a circle, the waters retired, and now these stranded masses afford us an interesting proof of the existence of exten- sive gyratory marine action, arising from the opposing forces of hot and cold currents during the Glacial Period ! Perhaps the greatest charm of Stonehenge is the mystery in which its origin and purpose are shrouded, and, in a certain way, evil will be the day that sees this veil lifted from it. The vast plain around Stonehenge is thickly dotted with 1 Letter to Mrs. Thrale, written Oct. 9, 1783. 8o " Historical Account of the Origin of Stonehe?ige. tumuli, which contain (or contained) the unknown dust of men of whom history tells us absolutely nothing : — " Antiquity appears to have begun, Long after their primseval race was run." To some extent, the gulf of this prehistoric past has been spanned by the bridge of investigation ; but, after all that has been written about Stonehenge, in many respects it still remains a sphinx-riddle to archaeologists ; on the other hand, the popular mind has evolved its history, strongly tinctured of course with the marvellous. So sacred are these stones that, " it is generally averred hereabouts," writes Aubrey, " that pieces of them putt into their Wells, doe drive away the Toades, with which their wells are much infested, and this course they use still. It is also averred that no Magpye, Toade, or Snake was ever seen here." But Aubrey spoils all by adding the following explanation, " this is easy to be believed ; for birds of weake flight will not be beyond their power of reaching some Convert for fear of their enemies, Hawkes and Ravens ; whereas no Convert is neer a mile and a halfe of this place. As for the Toades they will not goe beyond a certain distance from the water by reason of spawning, and Snakes and Adders doe love convert." The "historical" account of Stonehenge is to be found re- corded by the great British-Mythologist, Geoffrey of Mon- mouth, who gave his work to the world before the year 1139. According to this, Aurelius Ambrosius, wishing "to com- memorate those who had fallen in battle,"^ sent for Merlin, in order to consult with him as to the erection of a monument to their memory. Merlin's suggestion was as follows : — " If you are desirous to honour the burying-place of these men with an everlasting monument, send for the ' Giant's Dance,' which is in Killaraus (Kildare), a mountain in Ireland. For there is a structure of stones there, which none of this age could raise without a profound knowledge of the mechanical arts. They are stones of a vast magnitude, and wonderful quality ; and if they can be placed here, as they are there, quite round this spot, they will stand for ever." At these words, Aurelius burst out into laughter, and said, " How is it possible to remove such large stones from so distant a country, as if Britain was 1 The British nobles whom Hengist, the Saxon, is alleged to have treacherously murdered at, or near, Ambresbury. Dr. Guesfs Explanation of the Legend. 8i not furnished with stones fit for the work." MerHn replied that they were mystical stones, and of a medicinal virtue ; and so, at last, it was decided to fetch the stones and, if need be, bring them away by force, should the people of Ireland offer to detain them. After defeating the Irish, the Britons proceeded to Killaraus ; and, as they were gathered around the " Giant's Dance," Merlin tauntingly said, '' Now try your forces, young men, and see whether strength or art can do more towards taking down these stones." So they set to work, but all to no purpose. Merlin laughed at their vain efforts, and, at last, himself " took down the stones with an incredible facility, and withal gave directions for carrying them to the ships, and placing them therein. This done, they with joy set sail again to return to Britain, where they arrived with a fair gale, and repaired to the burial-place with the stones." Aurelius sum- moned all his people to celebrate the erecting of the monu- ment, which was effected by Merlin, who "placed them in the same manner as they had been in the Mount of Killaraus, and thereby gave a manifest proof of the prevalence of art abov r strength."^ This story held its ground for 500 years. A pj^- bable explanation of the legend of Merlin and the "Giant's Dance" has been suggested by Dr. Guest, according to this : — " Amesbury signified the burgh of Ambres or Ambrosius — and upon the authority of the Welsh triads, was once the seat of a great monastery, one of the three chief perpetual choirs of the isle of Britain," as already mentioned in my notes on Ames- bury. In the older Welsh poems there are allusions to a conflict that took place about some nawt, or sanctuary. "It has been keenly contested that these allusions refer to the massacre of the British nobles by Hengist, and that the nawt was the heathen sanctuary of Stonehenge. . . I would venture to suggest that this celebrated Jiawt may have been the Christian monastery instead of the heathen temple, and that the legend which makes Stonehenge the work of Ambrosius, may have arisen from his having built or re-edified one of the 'Choirs of Britain' in its immediate neighbourhood. An attempt on the part of the invaders to surprise this monastery — probably during one of its great festivals — may have given rise to the charge of a treacherous massacre ; and Hengist ^ The whole account, given in the words of Thompson's translation, re- printed from Sir R. Hoare, is given by Mr. Long, " Wilts Mag.," vol. xvi.,, pp. 9— II. G 82 Aubrey and Pepys visit Stoneheiige. would naturally figure in the tale, as being the Saxon chief best known to Welsh fable. The story seems to have been a favorite fiction in the sixth and seventh centuries, for it is also told of the Saxons who invaded Thuringia. . . The choir of Ambrosius was probably the monastery of Britain — the centre from which flowed the blessings of Christianity and civilisation. Around Amesbury the Briton was fighting for all that was dearest to him ; and thus may we account for the desperate resistance which enabled him to maintain a weak frontier for nearly sixty years, within little more than twenty miles of Winchester." " If the massacre at Amesbury," writes Mr. Long,^ "was a massacre of Christians, Stonehenge was hardly the kind of monument which would have been erected to commemorate their dead by Christian survivors and suc- cessors." Both Aubrey and Pepys visited Stonehenge, but neither of them seems to have been favourably impressed with the Plain, which, on the other hand, delighted Evelyn,^ who thus writes of it : — " we passed over the goodly plain, or rather sea of carpet, which I think for evenness, extent, verdure, and innu- merable flocks, to be one of the most delightful prospects ' in nature." Aubrey appears to have had the old Wiltshire saying in his mind : — " Salisbury Plain, Salisbury Plain, Seldom without a thief or twain." " About six miles from Salisbury," writes Aubrey, " in the plaines before named (they are but rarely inhabited and had in late time a bad name for Robberies there committed) is to be seen a huge and monstrous piece of worke, Stonehenge." It was the steepness of the hills that alarmed poor Pepys, who, in his own words : — "not being able to hire coach-horses, and not willing to use our own, we got saddle-horses, very dear. Boy that went to look for them 6d. So the three women behind, W. Hewer, Murford, and our guide ; and I single to Stonehenge, over the plain and some great hills, even to fright us. Come thither, and find them as prodigious as any tales I ever heard of them, and worth going this journey to see. God knows what their use was : they are hard to tell, but yet may be told. Gave the shepherd-7£/^w^;/, for leading our horses, 1 " Wilts. Mag.," vol. xvi., p. 13. • 2 In 1654. Pepys visited Stonehenge, June ii, 166S. Descriptio7i of Stonehenge. 83 4d." And we have not advanced much in our knowledge of the original purpose of the monument since the days of Pepys, the story is still "hard to tell" — " but yet may be told." Some insist that Stonehenge was a monument erected in memory of the dead, others are equally persuaded that it was a temple. If a monument : — " 111 did those mighty men to trust thee with their story, Thou hast forgot their names, who rear'd thee for their gloiy : For all their wondrous cost, thou hast se^-y'd them so, What 'tis to trust to tombs, by thee we eas'ly know." Fig. 44. Stonehenge, as it (peobably) was. My own impression is that Stonehenge was a temple, and some of the evidence which has led me to this conclusion will be brought forward in the following pages. In looking at Stonehenge we should remember that we are beholding a ruin, which has to be re-constructed in the mind's eye ; Fig. 44 may help us to do this, no very difficult task, for G 2 84 The ^^ Slaughtering Stone''' at StoJtehenge. " there is as much of it undemoHshed," says Stukeley, " as enables us sufficiently to recover its form, when it was in its most perfect state ; there is enough of every part to preserve the idea of the whole." DESCRIPTION OF STONEHENGE. Stonehenge stands in the middle of a circular boundary, 300 feet in diameter, formed by throwing up a slight bank with a shallow ditch outside. This bank is about 100 feet from the outer circle of stones. The bank cuts through a low barrow on the north-west side, and it embraces another low barrow on the opposite side, from which circumstance it appears that these tumuli were in existence befoj-e the surrounding earth- work at Stonehenge was formed. Two stones are to be seen on the edge of the embankment, but there are no indications of other stones having been similarly placed on the margin of this earth-work. The entrance to Stonehenge is on the north-east, and is marked by a bank and ditch forming an avenue which leads directly to the temple. At a short distance from the entrance to the outer circle of stones, and within the area enclosed by the circular bank, lies a prostrate stone (21 feet in length), this is popularly known as the "slaughtering stone." This stone does not appear to have been fully trimmed into its destined shape, the row of holes worked across one corner was evidently intended to weaken the stone in a desired line of fracture — to enable an unsightly corner to be taken off, and so to render the form more symmetrical. Why this was not accomplished we cannot tell, but it militates against the late Mr. Cunnington's theory that it, at one time, stood erect.^ These holes on the " slaughtering stone"^ deserve rather more than a passing notice. They have evidently been drilled by artificial means, and with the intention of dividing the stone in the line of the indentations. At the present day, it is the custom with the stone-hewers on Dartmoor, to drill holes across a block of granite that they wish to divide. A sudden » See Mr. Long's paper, "Wilts. Mag.," vol. xvi,, pp. 56, 57. The roofing- stones of some dolmens appear to have been trimmed into shape after they had been placed in position, but that was evidently to save trouble, it would increase the trouble to trim a monolith into shape after it was erected. ■- So called from a popular idea that victims were immolated upon it. . IV/ial tools were used by ike builders of Stonehengel 85 blow will then cause the mass to separate in the desired direc- tion. On Dartmoor, the indentations are made by means of a chisel-shaped instrument termed a "jumper." A rotatory motion is communicated to the tool, the result of which, of course, is that the indentations are circular. The indentations, B o o out twenty miles in compasse. In another place he says, " they arc tlie stones of the Grayweathers, distant from hence not above fourteen miles, where there are thousands of such stones to be drawn out of the earth. They were brought hither on Rowlers." ^^,»;^>-v\«i j\ ^ c::J ^ SCALE O 30 FTTOTHE IllCH Pig. 46. Ground-plan of Stonehenge, as it is. upright stones of the outer circle is about 4 feet/ and the diameter of the circle is 100 feet within the stones. The two tenons, to produce which much labour must have been ex- pended, are towards the ends of the upper surface of each upright stone in the outer circle; only one tenon is present on each upright of the horse-shoe, and that is situated in the middle of the upper surface, see details in Fig. 45 (H — I) ; a difference which arose from the circumstance that while the imposts of the outer circle stretched as a continuous line along the top of the uprights, the imposts of the horse-shoe were never intended to be carried round the figure in a continuous line ; the five grand trilithons were intended to stand separate and apart from ^ According to Mr. Long, the width of the opening between the stones numbered A i and A 2 on Hoare's plan is 4 feet 4 inches. Fall of two of the Great Trilithons. 91 each other ; it may be, each triUthon a symbol in itself, and all five teogther forming another symbol of well-known import, the horse-shoe or crescent. Mr. Henry Browne (Amesbury) was of opinion that the imposts of the outer circle '' had been fitted together, at their extremities, by corresponding projectures and hollows," as shown in Fig. 47.^ This opinion is confirmed by Mr. Long, Fig. 47. Plan showing the way in which the imposts op the outer CIRCLE dovetail INTO EACH OTHER. who visited Stonehenge in April, 1876, in company with Captain Long, Mr. Cunnington and Mr. Edwards of Amesbury; and I have also noticed this arrangement. At a distance of about 9 feet within the outer circle, stood some thirty or forty monoliths (foreign stone), arranged in a circle (B on Fig 45), each about 4 feet in height ; very few of these are now standing upright, they are of rude and irregular shape, and probably are unwrought. Within the inner circle stands (or stood) the most imposing feature of Stonehenge, the five great triHthons (C on Fig. 45). They are all sarsen stones (local), and are arranged in the form of a horse-shoe, with the opening to the north-east. These great trilithons rise gradually in height towards the south-west. The first group, on the left-hand side of the horse- shoe as you enter, being sixteen feet three inches in height ; the next, on the same side, seventeen feet two inches ; and the central group, twenty-one feet six inches. Aubrey, in his " Monumenta Britannica," attributes the overthrow of this grand central trilithon to the researches made in the year 1620, by George, Duke of Buckingham, who, when James I. was at Wilton, " did cause the middle of Stonehenge to be digged, and this underdigging was the cause of the falling downe, or recumbency of the great stone there, twenty-one foote long." The group next the central trilithon, on the north-western side, fell on the third of January, 1797. A strange concussion * Copied from "Wilts Mag.," vol. xvi., p. 93. jsssk ■^TT^^imi ^'^'»lM.i'*•■"''>i"/*ll''■'■■""!' ' Fig. 48. T is Great Trilithon. Foreign Stone, having two cavities, at Stojiehenge. 93 or jarring of the ground was felt by some men who were ploughing fully half-a-mile distant from Stonehenge ; this was occasioned, as they afterwards perceived, by the fall of this trilithon.i It fell outwards, as may be seen by reference to Fig. 46, and it still remains where it fell. _ The immediate cause seems to have been a sudden and rapid thaw, which set in the day before the stones fell; but it appears that some gipsies had, in the preceding autumn, contributed not a litde to the catastrophe by digging away the soil on the western side of this trilithon, in order to obtain more shelter for their tent. " It was upon the top of the trilithon, mimediately to the left (the south-east) of the altar-stone, to one entering from the avenue, that ' my Lord Winchilsea and Dr. Stukeley took a considerable walk,' but the latter adds 'it was a frightful situation.' "^ Within the horse-shoe figure formed by the great trilithon s is a second horse-shoe figure composed of monoliths (foreign stoned (D on Fig. 45). There were originally 15 or more of these' monoliths, of an average height of 8 feet, these stones also, like the great trilithons, gradually increase in height toward what was, perhaps, the most important and sacred part of the temple, where lies the so-called " altar stone " (E on Fig. 45). The monoliths composing the inner horse-shoe have evfdently been wrought into their present pointed pyramidal form, one of them has a groove cut down its side, for what purpose is not apparent. The "altar stone" (E on Fig. 45) is (or rather, was, when entire) sixteen feet two inches in length, three feet two inches in width, and one foot nine inches in thickness. It was com- pletely broken in two by the fall of the impost of the great trilithon.^ On the left-hand side, as one enters the inner circle from the north-east is a recumbent stone (foreign) with two basin- 1 Full details are given in Mr. Long's paper, "Wilts Mag.," vol. xvi., PP« 79 — Si- . r 2 Mr. Long, " Wilts. Mag.," vol. xvi., p. 62. 3 In reference to the so-called " altar-stone" now at Stonehenge, it may be mentioned that Aubrey tells us, " Philip Earle of Pembroke did say, that an Altar Stone was found in the middle of the Area here (Stone- henge) ; and that it was carried away to St. James' (Westminster), and he also sad, that upon the digging of the Duke of Buckingham, were found here Stagges-hornes and Bull's homes and Charcoales." 94 Stonehenge erected at Two Periods. like cavities worked into the surface now turned uppermost (see Fig. 46). The stone is remarkable from being the only foreign stone at Stonehenge in which a cavity has been wrought. It is usual to regard these two cavities as mortise-holes ; but we are still very much in the dark as to the purpose to which this particular stone was applied, even as to the position it occupied in the original structure. If Stonehenge was erected at two distinct periods, the horse- shoe and circle of foreign stone probably formed the earlier temple. It may even have been erected elsewhere at some former period, and then transported to Salisbury Plain and again set up. An intrusive and con- quering people may have brought these hallowed stones with them, and have added to the impressive appearance of their old temple, in its new situation, by repeating its features on a far larger scale, using local stone for the purpose. This idea was in Canon Jackson's mind, when he compared the horse- shoe and circle of foreign stone at Stonehenge to " the Casa Santa at Loreto, a small cottage said to have been the Virgin Mary's house at Nazareth, but now enshrined in a magnificent church ; so these obelisks, possessing some great traditional value, were transported hither, and enshrined in a coronet of the mightiest Grey Wethers that Wiltshire could produce." In Figs. 49 and 50, I have reproduced the chromo-litho- graphic plans of Stonehenge, given by Mr. Long,^ substituting distinctive shading for colours. I cannot help thinking, however, that the triple arrangement of monoliths, represented (in Fig. 49) as standing before each of the great trilithons in the outer horse-shoe is incorrect ; for some of the monoliths now standing depart from this arrangement, and occupy the interspaces, as may be seen in Figs. 46 and 50. Perhaps, the restoration shown in Fig. 45 is not very far wrong. I have ventured to omit the foreign trilithon shown in Mr. Long's plan, for reasons hereafter to be given. In Fig. 49 may be seen, at a glance, the " Casa Santa" of Canon Jackson, represented in solid black ; whilst the shaded stones form "the coronet of Grey Wethers." The present position occupied by the foreign, and the local stones, may be seen in Fig. 50. But to return to the prostrate foreign stone with two cavities (shown in Fig. 46) near the first great trilithon on the north- 1 a Wilts. Mag.," vol. xvi., p. 54. Stoiiehenge erected at Tivo Periods, 95 l3 fine micaceous sandstone WILTSHIRE SARSEN STONE DIABASE AND OTHER PRIMITIVE ROCKS Fig. 49. Stonehenge as it may have been ; showing the relative POSITIONS OF THE FOREIGN AND THE LOCAL STONES. AfTER Mr. LoNG. eastern side of Stonehenge. It is only on the local stones that mortise-holes exist. These two cavities in the prostrate foreign stone are too far from the ends of this particular stone, and too close together, to justify our comparing it with the imposts of the outer circle, or outer horse-shoe. Besides, is it not sur- prising that whilst this supposed impost has been preserved, no trace remains of either of the syenitic uprights upon which it rested ? There is not, I believe, a single foreign stone with a tenon at Stonehenge, and yet, in the model of Stonehenge (restored) at Lake House, four such pillar stones are re- presented ; in the ground-plan, shown in Fig. 51, there are six such placed at the entrance to the great horseshoe, and in Mr. Long's chromo-lithograph there are two such pillar-stones, 96 Veiitratio7i of Stones with Jioles worked in them, Sv w Fig. 50. Stonehenge as it is ; showing the present positions of THE FOREIGN AND THE LOCAL STONES. AfTEB Mr. LoNG. and all this rests upon the discovery of a single stone at Stone- henge, having two cavities worked in it. This stone, however, is quite as likely to have served for an altar as for an impost, and the cavities may have been intended to receive libations or offerings of some kind. Stones with holes worked in their upper surface still receive superstitious veneration in parts of Sweden. Near a town, called Linde, abutting on a forest-path which leads to Bohrs Forge, is an earth-fast stone {Jordfast sten), popularly known as " The Elf-Stone ;" it is nine feet in length, about seven in breadth, and four in height, and has upon its flat upper surface six small holes. The women of the neighbourhood, when a child is ill (or as they suppose " elf- struck"), visit this stone, smear the holes with fat or butter, and then place in them, as offerings, small dolls (called t^vll- dockor) made of rags. Near Tjursaker Court (or farm), in Our-Lady-kirk parish, near Enkoping, is a mass of rock in which there is a cup-shaped cavity, it is known as " The Elf- Pot" {df-gryta). The women of the neighbourhood make it a special errand on Thursday evenings to visit the "elf-pot," and " to anoint for the sick" {sni6rjafo7' sjukd) with hog's lard, and The Petrology of the Stofiehenge Stones. 97 ^ <^ ^ <*> ^ ^ \^A % I \ ft % % 5^ ^ Fig. 51. Ground-plan of Stonehenge (restored), i then to offer in the " elf-pot" a pin, or some other object, that has been used by the sick person. ^ I venture to suggest, therefore, that some further attention be given to this subject, before we jump to the conclusion that this foreign block of stone was an impost — and nothing more. THE PETROLOGY OF THE STONEHENGE STONES. Among what are called the lower Tertiaries, are certain sands and mottled clays (known as the Woolwich and Reading beds, from being largely developed near those places) and it is from these beds that the '' sarsens" (or local stones), used at Stonehenge, have been obtained. Sarsens are rarely found hi situ^ owing to the destruction of the beds to which they belonged ; for they are merely masses of sand concreted together by a silicious cement — the looser portions of the deposit have been washed away, but the blocks — the sarsens — were too heavy to be removed by flood-waters, and so they have remained stranded, often in countless numbers, as near * This differs but little from the restoration proposed . by Dr. Smith' See Hoare, " Anc. Wilts," vol. i., p. 151. - " Notes and Queries," 4th series, Feb. 12, 1870, Quoted from Hylten Cavallius, " Warend och Wirdarne." H 98 The Tools used at Stonehenge. Clatford in North Wilts ; occupying the lower level of the valley, and winding downward in a mighty stream with every sinuosity of those upland valleys in which they occur. Sarsen stones are sometimes found in situ, as at the cliffs of St. Marguerite, near Dieppe. Several years since I was told that masses of concretionary stone are found at some place near Virginia Water ; the loose soil is tested with iron bars, and when a stone is struck, it is dug out, and used for building, and other purposes. With regard to the foreign stones at Stonehenge they are chiefly of syenite (composed of quartz, felspar, and horn- blende). A silicious schist, and greenstones have also been observed at Stonehenge. The " altar-stone" is a fine-grained micaceous sandstone. The foreign stones closely resemble the igneous rocks of the Lower Silurian region of North Pem- brokeshire and of Caernarvonshire, although it does not at all follow that they were obtained from thence. Professor Ten- nant sees in them a strong resemblance to the greenstones and syenites of the Channel Islands. A very remarkable feature at Stonehenge is the presence of these stones, which have evidently been brought from a dis- tance, for, usually, megalithic structures are formed of material to be found close at hand. That these masses of stone would not have been transported to Salisbury Plain except under the influence of some strong religious or superstitious feeling is almost certain ; and as Mr. Cunnington has well observed : — " this goes far to prove that Stonehenge was originally a temple, and neither a monument raised to the dead, nor an astronomical calendar or almanac. In either of these latter cases, there would have been no motive for seeking the materials elsewhere. The sarsens would have answered every purpose, with less labour, and with better effect." WHAT TOOLS WERE EMPLOYED FOR WORKING THE STONES AT STONEHENGE? Mr. Long has brought together a mass of information tending to show how the stones may have been transported from a distance to their present resting-place at Stonehenge,^ and he also mentions the probable manner in which the stones were 1 (( Wilts. Mag.," vol. xvi., pp. no — 116. The Tools used at Stonehenge. 99 squared and the mortises and tenons wrought.^ The opinion of WiUiam Smith (the geologist) and of Dr. Thurnam, that friction had been resorted to in, at least, finishing the mortises and tenons is cited. With reference to this, I would ask the visitors to carefully examine the mortise-holes of the fallen impost of the great trilithon, for in them are still, distinctly, to be traced the pitted markings of the pointed tool by means of which these cavities were formed. In comparatively modern times, the deepening of such holes in blocks of hard stone pre- sented no insuperable difficulty to the stone-using people in- habiting the north-west coast of America. In the Blackmore Collection may be seen a series of stone mortars, from California chiefly ; these are, for the most part, large water- worn boulders, in which cavities (very like those in the imposts at Stonehenge) have been wrought by means of a pointed stone tool. These mortars have been in use for crushing maize, and consequently the tool-marks are obliterated at the bottom of the cavity, whilst the friction of the stone pestle has worn away the tool-marks towards the mouth of the mortars, but at the sides the tool-marks are still to be seen, and they very closely resemble those to be seen in the mortises of the fallen impost at Stonehenge. It is more than probable that Stonehenge was erected by a bronze-using people ; but tools of bronze have been practically shown to be less efficient in working stone, than tools of flint, '-^ ^ I have elsewhere entered upon the subject of working hard varieties of stone with tools of flint, of bronze, and of iron. See "Flint Chips," PP; 495» 496. - In the Museum of St. Gennain (France) are some blocks of granite, upon which figures have been cut, similar to those to be seen on slabs of the same material, to be found in several of the dolmens in Brittany, such as Gavr' Inis. The figures in the St. Germain specimens have been wrought, by way of experiment, with an ancient flint tool, within the last eight or nine years. The tised tool is placed by the side of the work accomplished by means of it. Other sculptures have been wrought with an ajicient bronze tool, and this is also exhibited ; the superiority of the flint tool for such a purpose is abundantly proved by the present condition of the two imple- ments. A similar experiment was made in Scotland, by Mr. R. Paul, at the request of the late Sir James Simpson ; and the result is still to be seen in the Edinburgh Antiquarian Museum. The material, in which the figures were cut, was hard Aberdeen granite ; the tools used were o. flint pick and a wooden malet. The flint pick was about three inches in length, an inch in breadth, and about a quarter of an inch in thickness. In the course of the work, the sharp tip of the flint, from time to time, broke off j but another sharp edge was produced by the fracture, rendering grinding un- necessary. (Simpson, "Brit. Archaic Sculpturings.") H 2 loo Tra?isport of the Stones to Stonehenge. and, it is quite consistent with what we know of the Bronze Age elsewhere, to suppose that the more efficient tool, whether of bronze or of flint, would have been employed by the " sup- posed" bronze-using builders of Stonehenge. I may here mention that, it seems generally to be expected, that numerous chippings of the stones should be found m the immediate neighbourhood of Stonehenge; the idea, apparently, being that the stones were dressed into shape on the spot, a conclusion which is not yet established ; and, in fact, is not supported by any evidence, either direct or by analogy. The blocks of Carrara marble which, in the present day, are tran- sported from the Tiber to the artists' studio in Rome, are " divested previously of all unnecessary bulk." And, if we enquire as to the transport of the colossal stone figures of Assyria and Egypt, we shall find that the masses were not only squared, but also sculptured, before they were dragged from the quarry, with very slight mechanical assistance, and by manual labour. Nor is it likely that the builders of Stonehenge would have dragged a needlessly bulky, or misshapen, mass of stone- mile after mile— merely to have the pleasure of dressing it into shape at the end of their laborious journey. Minor details may have been carried out at Stonehenge ; but, probably, the stones were squared before they reached Salisbury Plain, and chippings, for the most part, have to be sought elsewhere. Writers, usually, cite the removal of large masses of stone by people, who like the Assyrians and Egyptians, had attained to a comparatively high standard of civilization. It may be instructive, therefore, to seek for the example of a "stone- moving" people nearer the cuUure-level of the probable builders of Stonehenge. Such a people appear to have existed in Central America. Stephens visited some quarries from whence the material, used for the altars and large stone idols at Copan, was obtained. He expresses himself as being astonished at what had been accomplished. " How the large masses were transported," he writes, " over the irregular and broken surface we had crossed, and particularly how one of them was set up on the top of a mountain, two thousand feet high, it was impossible to conjecture. In many places were blocks which had been quarried out and rejected from some defect ; and, at one spot, midway in a ravine leading toward the river, was a gigantic block, much larger than any we saw m Memlithic Structures in Ce?itral America. loi ''0) the city, which was probably on its way thither to be carved and set up as an ornament, when the labours of the workmen were arrested. Like the unfinished blocks in the quarries at Assouan and on the Pentelican Mountain, it remains as a memorial of baffled human plans. The unfortunate taste to hand down his name to posterity, so common to tourists, seized upon Stephens, for, he says : — " On the top of the range was a quarried block. With the chay stone found among the ruins, and supposed to be the in- strument of sculpture, we wrote our names upon ity The pleasure to be derived from this act was not entirely unalloyed, for he adds, we can almost fancy with a sigh of regret : — " They stand alone, and few will ever see them." We could wish that few would follow his example, in thus defacing a page in the unwritten story of the past— whether seen or unseen. The more advanced people of America, prior to the arrival of Europeans, were living in the Bronze Age, they had not discovered the use of iron as a metal. But these blocks of stone at Copan, most of them covered with elaborate sculp- ture, are supposed by Stephens to have been wrought with stone tools ; he says, " the stone of which all these altars and statues are made is a soft grit-stone from the quarries before referred to. At the quarries, we observed many blocks with hard flint-stones distributed through them, which had been rejected by the workmen after they were quarried out. The back of this monument^ had contained two. Between the second and third tablets the flint has been picked out, and the sculpture is blurred ; the other, in the last row but one from the bottom, remains untouched. An inference from this is, that the sculptor had no instruments with which he could cut so hard a stone, and, consequently, that iron was unknown. We had, of course, directed our searches and inquiries to this point, but did not find any pieces of iron or other metal, nor could we hear of any having ever been found there. Don Miguel had a collection of chay or flint stones, cut in the shape of arrow-heads, which he thought, and Don Miguel was no fool, were the instruments employed. They were sufficiently hard to scratch into the stone. Perhaps, by men accustomed to the use of them, the whole of these deep relief ornaments might have been scratched, but the chay stones themselves ^ Figured to^face p, 153, vol. i. I02 The Avenues and Cursus, at Sfonehejige. looked as if they had been cut by metal. "^ With regard to Stephens' last remark, it is possible that the smoothness of the surface of these chay tools was nothing more than what is usually produced by the process of flaking ; and it would seem that the elaborately sculptured monoliths and altars of Copan were erected by a purely stone-using people. If so, it goes far to set at rest the impossibility of Stonehenge having been erected during the Stone Age,^ although my own impres- sion (from other circumstances) is that the erection of Stone- henge may be referred to an early period in the Bronze Age, perhaps to a time when the use of stone overlapped that of bronze. THE AVENUES AND CURSUS. Neither Webb nor Aubrey appear to have noticed the Avenues or Cursus, and Stukeley is entitled to the credit of having discovered both f they are shown in the plan of the route. The cursus situated about half-a-mile north of Stone- henge, is in length i mile, 5 furlongs, and 176 yards; its breadth is no yards. At the distance of 55 yards from the eastern end the course is rounded off, as if the horses made a turn at this spot. At the distance of 638 yards from this end, are two entrances into the area of the cursus, opposite to each other; and 825 yards further on the bank has been broken down by the continual passing of waggons ; to this spot Dr. Stukeley supposes the northern branch of the avenue from Stonehenge pointed. The avenue extends from Stonehenge, rather more than 1700 feet in a straight line, towards the north-east. The earth removed from the ditches is thrown inward. "The two ditches continue," says Stukeley, ''per- fectly parallel to the bottom (of the valley), 40 cubits asunder. . . . At the bottom of the valley, it divides into two branches. The eastern branch goes a long way hence, directly east, pointing to an ancient ford of the river Avon. The western branch from its termination at the bottom of the hill, 1000 cubits from the work at Stonehenge, goes off with a similar sweep at first, but then it does not throw itself into a ^ Stephens, " Incidents of Travel in Cent. Anier., &c.," Murray, 1842, vol. i., pp. 153, 154. 2 The "soft grit-stone" at Copan is probably less difficult to work with stone tools than the stones at Stonehenge. 2 See Mr. Long's account, pp. 89 — 91. Who erected Stonehejige ? 1 03 strait line immediately, as the former, but continues curving along the bottom of the hill, till it meets, what I call, the cursus." ■ WHO ERECTED STONEHENGE? It has been suggested that Stonehenge was erected by the Belgae, who in the time of Julius Caesar, are known to have occupied that part of Britain in which Stonehenge is situated. They appear to have gradually expelled the British tribes who preceded them, and constructed successive lines of defence — Combe Bank, Bokerly Ditch, and Wansdike; pos- sibly, however, these earthworks were not intended so much for purposes of defence, as to serve for boundary lines ; of these Wansdike formed (probably) the last of the Belgic boundaries. It is a magnificent earthwork, and stretched from the woodlands of Berkshire to the British Channel. "The builders of Stonehenge," writes Dr. Thurnam, "we believe to have been the Belgae, or possibly a confederacy of the whole of those Belgic tribes, by whom, at a no very long time before our era, a great part of South Britain was con- quered and settled."^ Our President, Sir John Lubbock, has expressed the opinion that Stonehenge " may be regarded as a monument of the Bronze Age, apparently not all erected at one time, the inner circle^ of small, unwrought blue stones, being, pro- bably, older than the rest ;" and that it was " used as a Temple."^ Now that we have seen Stonehenge, we need not fear the unlucky fate that befell "a wander witt of Wiltshire," who " rambling to Rome to gaze at antiquities, and there skrewing himself into the company of Antiquaries, they entreated him to illustrate unto them, that famous monument in his country, called Stallage. His answer was that he had never seen, scarce ever heard of it. Whereupon they kicked him out of doors, and bad him goe home, and see Stonage ; and I wish," adds the writer, "all such ^sopicall cocks, as slight these admired stones, and other our domestick monuments, and scrape for barley-cornes of vanity out of forreigne dunghills might be handled, or rather footed, as he was."^ I will not go * " Archaeologia, vol. xliii., p. 309. - Inner circle and inner horseshoe. ^ " Pre-Historic Times," p. 116. ^ "A Fool's Bolt soon shot at Stonage," written about 1660, and published anonymously in " Langtoft's Chronicle." I04 Salisbury Plain. so far as to recommend this as the best method for instilling a love of local antiquities into the minds of those who have hitherto stood aloof j but such treatment is richly merited by those who, from time to time, visit Stonehenge, and chip off pieces of the stones, or otherwise deface and injure them. Again the carriages are on the move, this time with little noise, for we are rolling along over the green carpet of Salis- bury Plain. SALISBURY PLAIN. Year after year, the turf disappears before the plough, but rather less than a century ago no signs of tillage were to be seen around Stonehenge. " The plain on which Stonehenge stands," writes the Rev. William Gilpin, " is in the same style of greatness as the temple that adorns it. It extends many miles in all directions, in some not less than fifty. An eye unversed in these objects is filled with astonishment in viewing waste after waste rising out of each new horizon. ' Such appears the spacious plain Of Sarum, spread like Ocean's boundless round, Where solitary Stonehenge, grey with moss, Ruin of ages, nods.' The ground is spread, indeed, as the poet observes, like the ocean; but it is like the ocean after a storm, it is continually heaving in large swells. Through all this vast district, scarce a cottage or even a bush appears. If you approach within two or three miles of the edge of the plain, you see, like the mariner within soundings, land at a distance, houses, trees, villages; but all around is waste. Regions like this, which have come down to us rude and untouched from the beginning of time, fill the mind with grand conceptions, far beyond the efforts of art and cultivation. Impressed by such views of nature, our ancestors worshipped the god of nature, in these boundless scenes, which gave them the highest conceptions of eternity All the plain, at least that part of it near Stonehenge, is one vast cemetery. Everywhere, as we passed, we saw tumuli or barrows, as they are called, rising on each hand. These little mounds of earth are more curiously and elegantly shaped than any of the kind I remember elsewhere to have seen. They commonly rise in the form of bells, and - each of them hath a neat trench fashioned round its base ; though in their forms, and in the ornamental circles at their W/iaf are the Barrows ? 105 bases, some appear to be of more distinguished workmanship. They are of various sizes, sometimes of thirty, sometimes of forty, or fifty yards in diameter. From many places we counted above an hundred of them at once ; sometimes as if huddled together without any design ; in other places rising in a kind of order. By the rays of a setting sun, the distant barrows are most conspicuously seen. Every little summit being tipped with a splendid light (while the plain is in shadow) is at that time easily distinguished. Most of them are placed on the more elevated parts of the plain, and generally in sight of the great temple. That they are mansions of the dead is un- doubted ; many of them having been opened, and found to cover the bones both of men and beasts ; the latter of which were probably sacrificed at the funeral."^ The popular idea still agrees with that expressed long ago by Camden, that these " burrowes or barrowes" were probably thrown up in memory of soldiers slain thereabouts," and for the same reason, because " bones are found in them." Aubrey and Stukeley both held a different opinion. " At Stonehenge," says Aubrey, "one may count, round about it fourty-five Barrowes. I am not of the opinion, that all these were made for burying the dead that were slain herabout in Battels ; it would require a great deale of time and leisure to collect so many thousand loades of earth : and the soldiers have some- thing els to doe flagrante bello : to pursue their victorie, or preserve themselves pursued : the cadavera remained a feast for the Kites and Foxes. So that I presume they were the Mausolea or Burying places for the Great Persons and Rulers of those times." " They (the barrows) are assuredly, the single sepulchres of kings and great personages buried during a considerable space of time, and that in peace. There are many groups of them together, and as family burial places ; the variety of them, seems to indicate some note of difference in the persons there interred, well known in those ages." The subsequent examination of barrows in Wiltshire and elsewhere, goes to prove the soundness of these opinions. "To the sanctity attaching to Stonehenge," writes Mr. Long, " the numerous and important ' monumental hillocks' on the adjoin- ing plain bear testimony, but no one who looked carefully at ^ "Observations on the Western Parts of England, relative especially to Picturesque Beauty," 1798; quoted by Mr. Long, "Wilts. Mag.," vol. xvi., pp. 138, 139. io6 Wiltshire Barrows. them, could, for a moment, entertain the idea that these were the graves of slaughtered heroes, whom survivors had ' buried darkly at the dead of night.' They carry with them unmis- takeable indications of having been leisurely and carefully made by a people who were living in peace and safety upon and around the neighbouring down.''^ It is, however, to the late Dr. Thurnam that we are chiefly indebted for the classifi- cation of our Wiltshire barrows, and of the objects found in them. His two valuable communications to the Society of Antiquaries of London, on this subject, are published,^^but, as they may not have been read by all who have joined this Stonehenge Excursion, I have given an outline of the informa- tion contained in them. WILTSHIRE BARROWS. With scarcely an exception, the barrows of our Downs are all to be regarded as pre-Roman, and may therefore be spoken of in a general way as ancient British.^ When tested however, by their outward form and by their contents, they are divisible into two great classes ; viz., Long barrows and Round barrows, of which the first-named are the earliest in time. In no county in England are long barrows so numerous as in Wiltshire. Round barrows are commonly found to occur in groups or clusters, but long barrows stand apart and are isolated. It is a very rare circumstance to find two long barrows within sight, or even within a mile's distance, of each other ; and generally they are at least two or three miles apart. As a rule, long barrows occupy the highest points on the down. Several of the clusters of round barrows near Stonehenge are grouped around a single long barrow. But this proximity is no proof that these two classes of barrows are of equal antiquity. The examination of the long barrows discloses an entirely different method of sepulture, and indicates a much earlier epoch than does that of the round barrows. As a rule, however, the long barrows stand apart from those of circular form. ^ Wilts Mag.," vol. xvi., p. 142. 2 " Archfeologia," vol. xlii,, pp. 161 — 244; vol. xliii. , pp. 285 — 552. ^ " It is further to be remarked," writes Dr. Thurnam, "that the few Anglo-Saxon tumuli which have been found in Wiltshire yvexe in the out- lying districts and valleys, and not one of them on the barrows-covered hills and plains around Avebury and Stonehenge, the sacred places of an elder race." — " Archaeologia," vol. xliii., p. 287. LONG BARROWS. The long barrows are for the most part immense mounds, varying in size, from one or two hundred to three and even nearly four hundred feet in length, from thirty to fifty feet in breadth or upwards, and from three to ten or even twelve feet in elevation. Along each side of the tumulus is a somewhat deep and wide trench or ditch, see Fig. 52, from which Fig. 52, A Long Bakeow (after Sir E. C. Hoare,)i trenches a great part, or sometimes even the whole, of the material of the mound was dug, but which it is very remarkable are not continued round the ends of the barrow. The presence of this feature affords an important means of distinguishing the truly ancient British long barrow from certain elongate grave- mounds of later epochs with which, judging only from a certain resemblance in their outward form, they may be confounded. ^ In by far the greater proportion of long barrows, the mound is placed east and west or nearly so, with the east end somewhat 1 " Archseologia, " vol. xlii., part i, p. 172, Fig. i. - Oval barrows usually cover two or three interments by cremation, one near each end, and frequently a third near the middle. The accompanying objects do not differ from those to be found in round barrows, and this is the case when the interments in an oval barrow have taken place by simple inhumation. They are to be attributed to the a^e of burning, which in South-west Britain was essentially an age of bronze. Their erection is to be assigned to the " same people and epoch as the generality of the round barrows, and especially those of bowl form. They are, in fact, composite tumili, formed of two or three — generally three — circular grave-mounds, the whole surrounded by a slight ditch. The plan of their formation may be better comprehended by the aid of the diagrams," Figs, 53 and 54, from which it will be seen how two or three circles marked out side by side on the turf might, by the over-lapping of their edges and other manipula- tion, have been made to coalesce in a single tumulus of oval form. That this is no improbable view is the more evident from the consideration of the twin and triple composite barrows of bell-form, which are occasionally met with." In Figs. 53 and 54, " the dots in centre of the circles will repre- sent so many places of primary sepulture." — Thurnam, " Archseologia," vol. xliii., pp. 296 — 298. io8 Relative age of Long Ban'ows and Belgic Dykes, higher and broader than the other. Under this more promi- nent and elevated extremity, the sepulchral deposit is usually Fig. 53. Fig. 54. Diagrams illustrative of the formation of Oval Barrows, i found, at or near the natural level of the ground : but, although this is the general rule, a certain proportion depart decidedly from such a system of orientation, being placed pretty nearly north and south, and this is an arrangement found, by Dr. Thurnam, to obtain in about one out of six of our Wiltshire long barrows. The position of some of the long barrows in relation to the very ancient earthworks known as Belgic dykes is indicative of the higher antiquity of the barrows. The earthwork (bank and ditch) which stretches across Salisbury Plain from north-east to south-west, and is laid down on the Ordnance maps as " Old Ditch" is especially prominent near Tilshead, about six miles to the north-west of our route, where is one of the largest of our long barrows, measuring 380 feet in length and 1 1 feet in height. On reaching the east end of this mound the ditch " makes a decided curve in order to avoid the tumulus," which as Sir R. C. Hoare justly observes, " is a certain proof of the superior date of the barrow." Another example is on the southern border of Wiltshire near the villages of Martin and Tippet, where the course of a branch of Bokerly Ditch has been diverted, " in order to avoid a long barrow ;" which, as Sir Richard again says, " proves the high antiquity of the sepulchral mound." The upper strata of the long barrows of Wiltshire consist chiefly of chalk rubble and flint nodules ; but these grave- mounds diff'er from the circular barrows around them, in having at the base, in almost all cases, a stratum of black or greyish 1 u Archgeologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 228, Figs. 4 and 5. ■^ Remains of Funeral Feasts. — Mode of Burial. 109 coloured, often unctuous, earth, in which the skeletons are found ; this is probably due to the decay of the turf pared off from the site of the barrow, and from the space occupied by the lateral ditches on each side of it, and which may have been heaped over the interment, before the tumulus was raised. Remains of Fimeral Feasts. — Not far from the human re- mains, though at a somewhat higher level, but still for the most part in the stratum of black or grey earth, are often found the bones of oxen, those of the skull and feet being the portions of the skeleton most generally met with. These belong to a small short-horned species, the Bos longif'ons. In the long barrow of Tilshead Lodge (No. 22), Dr. Thurnam found the skulls of two individuals of this species, one of which had six or seven cervical vertebrae i7i situ and entire, excepting the atlas and dentata, which were each ill two pieces, cleanly cleft as if in the slaughter of the animal. In the same barrow were the metatarsus and phalanges, no doubt of the same ox, all in situ. In another barrow (No. 26) were part of a skull, and a great number of metacarpi and metatarsi, with every phalangal bone of the digits in place, and in several instances the carpal, tarsal, and sesamoid bones likewise. Altogether, the appearances justify the conclusion that oxen were slaughtered at the time of the obsequies for the supply of the funeral feast, and that the heads and feet, not being used for food, were thrown on the yet incomplete barrow, as offerings, per- haps to the manes or to other deities. The appearances of the foot-bones, as well as those of the neck, clearly prove that the entire members, head and feet, had been cut off whilst held together by the tendons, ligaments, hoofs, and probably the skin. Antlers and bones of the red deer, as well as tusks and bones of the wild boar, trophies probably of the chase^ are also found in the long barrows. Mode of Btirial. — The human remains belonging to the primary interments in the long barrows may be classed under two heads, according as they are the skeletons of one or at the most two bodies distinctly and separately interred, or as they are those of many bodies promiscuously piled together. As a rule, the former belong to the mounds of the less, the latter to those of the greater, elevation. In that of Winter- bourne Stoke (No. 16) the single skeleton lay in the contracted posture on the right side. In that near Tilshead Lodge (No. 22) there were two skeletons lying not more than a foot apart. no Evideftce as to Huviaii Sacrifices. The space occupied by each was so very small, that either very unusual means had been resorted to for doubling up the body, or the flesh had been suffered to decay before burial. The bones, however, were observed to be in situ, joint to joint, so that the ligaments at least had not separated when the bodies were deposited in their final resting place. Both skeletons lay with the head to the north, and on the right side. In the Figheldean long barrow (No. 23) the bones of a single skeleton formed a small pile, very little to the east of the centre of the mound, and in this instance they appeared to have been dis- articulated by the decay of the ligaments before their final interment ; the bones in many instances not retaining their proper relative position, the head of one tibia being in juxta- position with the malleolus of the other, and vice versa. Much more usually, however, the human remains in the long barrows comprise numerous skeletons, which are " strangely huddled," or " thrown promiscuously together. " The bones found by Dr. Thurnam in Tilshead East long barrow (No. 17) com- prised the remains of eight skeletons singularly cemented together, within a space of less than four feet in diameter, and about a foot and a half in depth. So much were they mingled and so closely packed, that it is scarcely possible to regard this as the oris^inal place of burial \ and it is almost certain they had experienced a prior interment, and had been removed to the spot, where they were found, after the decay of the soft parts and the separation of the bones. In the long barrow of Norton Bavant (No. 28) the pile of bones consisted of the remains of at least eighteen skeletons, which were comprised within an area of about 8 by 3 feet, and about 18 inches in depth. The idea conveyed by the exploration of this deposit is that of a prior interment. There was great commingling of the osseous remains ; and it was noticed that many of the bones of the limbs were absent, judging as to their proper number from that of the skulls. Evidence as to Human Sacrifices. — In a large proportion of the long barrows opened by Dr. Thurnam, many of the skulls exhumed had been cleft, apparently by some blunt weapon, such as a club or stone axe. Among the heaps of human re- mains Dr. Thurnam sometimes found one skull unmutilated, whilst all the others show marks of cleavage. From a careful examination of the fractures, it seemed evident to Dr. Thurnam that the violence was inflicted before burial, and in all Flint Implements in Long Barrows. — Pottery. 1 1 1 probability during life. "Such injuries," he says, "might, no doubt, occasionally occur as an accident of war ; but it is scarcely possible they should have thus occurred with a frequency so great as the careful examination of these remains discloses. I hence conclude that the skeletons with cleft skulls are those of human victims immolated on the occasion of the burial of a chief. Everywhere such human sacrifices, among barbarous and half-civilised peoples, have been, and still are, common." That traces of a kind of suttee^ may be looked for in the earher grave-mounds of the ancient Britons is probable, not merely from what Caesar tells us of the immolation of slaves and dependants, but still more so from his statement that, if the circumstances of the death of a chief were suspicious, the wives were put to severe torture and killed by fire.^ In rare instances, in Wiltshire long barrows, cremation of an imperfect sort had been practised. Associated Majiufactured Objects. Flint Ii7iplements. — Very few objects of any kind have been found associated with inter- ments in long barrows. The delicate and beautifully-chipped leaf-shaped flint arrow-head shown in Fig. 55, was obtained from the long barrow on Fyfield Hill, called the "Giant's Grave ;" it was found close to one of the skulls. " As similar leaf-shaped flint arrow-heads, chipped to a great tenuity," says Dr. Thurnam, " have been found in two chambered long bar- rows, one in Wiltshire (Walker Hill) and one in Gloucestershire (Rodmarton), see Fig. 56, and as no barbed flint arrow-heads have so been found, I have ventured to designate this more primitive, though very delicate, form, the long-barrow type offiint arrow-head^ it being the only description as yet found in them." Pottery. — Very little pottery has been recovered from the long barrows, and that chiefly in a fragmentary state. But, "in 1866, in removing the pile of skeletons from the long barrow of Norton Bavant (No. 28)," says Dr. Thurnam, "imbedded among the human skeletons we discovered the greater part of a thin curious vase of a wide-mouthed semi- globular form, and which was capable of being partially restored, see Fig. 57. There are two ear-shaped handles pro- ^ A wife who desired to be burned with her deceased husband was re- garded as a sati or "good woman," and this word has passed into English as suttee. 2 " Bell. Gall.," vi. 19. 112 Flint Tmpleme7its, 6^^., in Long Barrows. Fig. 55. Leaf-shaped Flint Arrow- Fig. 56. Leae-shaped Flint HEAD, FOUND IN LONG BARROW, AT ArROW-HEAD, FOUND IN ChAM- Fyfield, Wilts. 1 berin Long Barrow, at Eod- MARTON, Gloucestershire. 2 Fig. 57. Fictile Vessel, with Primary Interment, Norton Bay ANT Long Barrow, Wilts. 3 ^ " Archseologia," vol. xlii., part i, p. 194, Fig. 3. 2 Ibid, p. 230, Fig. 23. 3 ibi^^ p^ ig^^ Fig 4_ Chaffibered Long Barrows. 113 jecting from below the rim, and the vessel when complete would have held perhaps two pints." In the specimens of pottery obtained from long barrows that came under the notice of Dr. Thurnam, " there is not the slightest trace of orna- mentation, either by pressure of cords or thongs, or by any other process ; in this respect, the contrast being great with most of the pottery from the round barrows." Secondary Interments. — The secondary interments not un- frequently met with in the upper strata, or near the summits of long barrows, are of great importance in enabling us to form an estimate of the probable relative date of these grave- mounds. The extended position of the skeleton and the character of the associated iron weapons, prove many of these secondary interments to belong to the Anglo-Saxon period. Some of the secondary interments, however, belong to the ancient British Bronze Age ; the skulls of the individuals so interred are of the round type (brachycephalic), the same type as those found in the circular barrows, whereas the skulls found in the long barrows are remarkably long and narrow and are to be classed as dolicJiocephalic. In Europe, at the present day, there is no people with skulls so long and so narrow ; and we have to search for cranial proportions similar to those of the old long barrow folk far away in Africa, India, Australia, or the Melanesian Islands. " The contrast in form," says Dr. Thurnam, " between the long skulls from the long barrows and the short or round skulls, which, to say the least, prevail in our Wiltshire circular barrows, is most interesting and remarkable, and suggests an essential distinction of race in the peoples by whom the two forms 06 tumuli were respectively constructed." CHAMBERED LONG BARROWS. Eleven Wiltshire long barrows differ from those already described in containing a chamber formed of slabs of stone, in which the interment has taken place. The absence of chambered long barrows in South Wiltshire and Dorsetshire appears to be due to the fact, that in those chalk regions there is an absence of stone suitable for the construction of chambers. In North Wiltshire the case is different, and sarsen stones of large dimensions, and in great numbers, are found iri the hollows of the higher chalk downs. Of the chambered barrows of Wiltshire, which, inclusive of I 114 Chambered Long Barrows, Wayland's smithy, just over the border, are twelve in number, nine, all in the chalk district, have, as was to have been ex- pected, the chambers formed of sarsen stones. The three other chambered barrows of our county lie on the oolite, and the chambers are constructed of slabs of stone derived from that formation, such as crop out upon, or near to, the surface, and could therefore be easily quarried. Generally speaking, the chambered long barrows are not of such large dimensions as those without chambers ; varying mostly from about 120 to 200 feet in length, and from 30 to 60 feet in breadth. The lateral ditches, which are so marked a feature in the unchambered long barrows, are for the most part but slightly developed in those which are chambered. In the oolitic regions, where suitable stone is abundant, nearly all the chambered barrows are found to have been sur- rounded with a dwarf dry stone wall laid in horizontal courses, neatly faced on the outside, and carried up to a height of two, three, or four feet. In this way was produced a supporting wall which defined the limits of the mound, enabled entrances to be made in it, and converted it from a mere hillock into a monumental structure. Such supporting walls were used, from an early period, in the construction of the earthen tumuli of the ancient Greeks. Thus of that of Patroclus and Achilles, in the Iliad, it is said : — " They marked the boundary of the tomb with stones, Then filled the enclosure hastily with earth. "^ So also among the less civilized people of Northern Europe, for we learn from Beowulf that the tumulus of the hero of the poem was " surrounded with a wall, in the most honourable manner that wise men could devise it."^ As the lateral walls of the chambered long barrows approach the broad and high end of the tumulus, they turn inwards by a bold but gradual curve ; and so finally abut on the two large standing stones, which in the best marked examples of these chambers form the door jambs to the entrance, see Fig. 58. Mliad, xxiii. 255. Mr. F. A. Paley ("On Homeric Tumuh," in "Trans. Camb. Phil. Soc," xi. 2) gives reasons for thinking that the tumulus of Patroclus and Achilles, here described, was not circular, but like our chambered long barrows, and the " ship barrows" of Scandinavia, of elongate form. See also my " Flint Chips," 385, &c. ' Beowulf, c. xliv. Chambered Lo?i9 Barrows. 115 "Si^i^r Fig. 58. Entrance to Chambers in Long Barrow at Ulet Gloucestershire,^ ' The gracefully rounded double-convex curve of the walling m this situation has not inaptly been compared to " the top of the figure of the ace of hearts in a pack of cards." On the Chalk Downs of North Wiltshire, where the sarsen blocks, of which the chambers are formed, are common on the surface, the base of the barrow has in several instances been surrounded by a series of such stones placed erect at regular intervals. The chambered long barrows present three principal types, as regards their internal construction :— . a Chambers opening into a Central Gallery. b Chambers opening externally. c Cists in place of Chambers. Of the finest examples of the first class {a), the entrance to the avenue is, or was, by a well-built doorway, formed of two standing stones and a third stone laid transversely upon them, see Fig. 58, which three stones {trilitho7i) are, for the most part, of larger and more massive proportions than any of the others entering into the composition of the chambers. This door- way IS found several feet within the skirt or general base-line of the tumulus, and fills up the bottom of the doubly-recurved, heart-shaped dry-walling already described. The entrance. I <( Archaeologia," vol. xlii., part i, p. 213, Fig. 9. I 2 1 16 Monoliths and Trilithons. in Chambered Long Barroivs. varying from two and a half to four feet in height was closed bv a large stone on the outside, which could be ro led away as required, and was itself covered up with the rubble-stone and earth of which the barrow was formed. The roofing of the central gallery, as well as of the chamber or chambers, was formed of large blocks of stone laid across, and restmg upon, the side walls. Sometimes, however, the prmciple ot the horizontal arch was resorted to. In the second class of the chambered barrows of this part of England (b) there is no central gallery, but side-chambers, which open outwards, near the base of the barrow, though at some distance within the inclosing wall. These side-chambers are generally in pairs, the one nearly opposite the other not far from the broad end, and near what may be called the shoulders of the barrow. Access to the internal chambers now under consideration was given by short and narrow passages formed of standing and horizontal stones ; or more frequently by a mere continuation of the inclosing wall of the mound These chambers or vaults are generally of a nearly square form. They are closed in front by two upright stones, naturally hollowed in the middle, so as, when placed side by side, to leave a sort of port-hole, through which the tomb might be entered in the creeping posture, see Fig. 59- i.^e stones forming the opening were covered on the outside with large stones and these again by stone rubble, all of which had to be removed before the chamber could be re-entered, from time to time, when fresh interments took place. The third type {c) q.2.\\ only be classed as chambered from their close relationship, and clearly contemporary origin, to those of groups a and h. Instead of chambers, properly so termed, they contain graves built up with stone slabs Monoliths or Triliths at the Broad End of Chambered Barrows.-ln two of the classes (b and c) of chambered barrows, the inclosing wall, as in class ^, curves inwards at the broad end of the tumulus, in a kind of ace-of-hearts form. But at the spot where the curve ends, in place of an entrance are to be found large stones placed in various fashions. Sometimes a monohth, sometimes two standing stones with a third resting against, or it may be wedged in between them. In the fine chambered tumulus at Ablington (No. 1 8) there is a doub e or concentric range of dry walling inclosing the base, which, a the broad end, makes the usual double curve inwards. Exactly at Monoliths upon Chamiered Long Barrows. 117 Fig. 59. Tolmen Entrance to Chamber on the North Side of Long Barrow at E'odmarton, Gloucestershire.^ the point where these curves meet there is a large upright oval stone, six feet high and five wide, the bottom of which rests in the (natural) perforation of a second block,^ by means of this support the monolith is steadied and kept in place, see Fig. 60. It would be idle to suppose that no symbolical Fig. 60. Monolith, heart-shaped curves op double walling, and PYRAMIDAL PILING IN LONG BARROW, AT AbLINGTON, GLOUCESTER- SHIRE. ^ ^ " Archreologia, ", vol. xlii., part i, p. 217, Fig. 12. ^ Such naturally perforated stones are often to be found in the Cotteswolds. 3 <( Archieologia," vol. xlii., part i, p. 219, Fig. 13. 1 1 8 The Worship of Sto7ies. meaning was intended to be conveyed by this associated posi- tion of the monolith and tolmen. In some instances, a mono- lith was placed on the exterior of the mound, thus on the broad end of the long barrow at Gatcombe, Gloucestershire, is a massive monolith, called " Tingle Stone," and other examples are known. Monoliths, answering to these, were placed upon ancient tumuli in the Troad.^ Some writers have supposed that these monoliths were intended only to render the tumulus a more conspicuous object, but this opinion does not explain the presence of monoliths and trilithons within the tumulus, where they would be completely hidden from the eye. On the other hand, if we attribute a symbolical and superstitious meaning to the monoliths present upon, and in, tumuli — as well as at Stonehenge, then we are in a position to understand why such stones were objects of worship. Long after the introduction of Christianity, the common people still regarded as sacred certain fountains, trees, and stones, and continued to visit them on certain days, and under particular circumstances. Stones are mentioned in the decrees of various councils of Anglo-Saxon times, so late even as those of Edgar and Cnut, in whose laws such practices are denounced. " Heathenism," say the laws of Cnut, " is that men worship idols, and the sun or the moon, or rivers, fountains, or stones of any kind." St. Eligius (St. Eloy) in preaching to the Franks, early in the seventh century, said, "Let no Christian presume to carry lights or oblations to temples, or to stones, or to fountains, or to trees, or to cross roads." Some, at least, of the stones referred to, were, doubtless, the monoliths, triliths, stone ^ The tumuli in the Troad, like our Wiltshire long barrows, are placed on commanding positions, and with the design of making the barrow a land- mark. This idea is shown in Hector's challenge (Iliad, vii., 84 — 90) to some one of the Greeks to meet him in single combat. If Hector should prove victorious he undertakes to give back the body of the deceased to the Greeks, so that they may make for him a tumulus on the shores of the Hellespont, and that some one may say in times long afterwards, as he sails on the sea, "Yonder is the mound of some man who died long ago, and who was slain by Hector when he was showing valour in the fight." But this design of making the barrow a landmark was further carried out by placing a stone pillar on it. This is. called (tttjAt/, and is often men- tioned. It was sometimes of large size, for we read (Iliad, xi., 370) that Paris, who was skilled in archery, takes his position behind the (tti^At; on the barrow of Ilus, and shoots at Diomede, wounding him in the foot. It was therefore of sufficient size to conceal the archer, and it is termed his \bxos, or place of ambuscade. See Paley, "On Homeric Tumuli "in "Trans. Camb. Phil. Soc," vol. xi., part 2. Tohnens, d^r. 119 circles, and cromlechs of hoar antiquity, which had never ceased to attract devotees. They seem to be unequivocally indicated in a decree of a council held at Nantes, in Brittany — a country in which monuments of this sort are so common. By the 20th canon of this council, the " stones which are vene- rated in ruinous places and in the forests" are ordered to be dug up and thrown into such a place as to be concealed alto- gether from those who worshipped them. Returning to our own country, it may be remarked that such monoliths as the " Hoar Stone" at Duntesbourne Abbot's (Gloucestershire), and the "Tingle Stone" at Gatcombe, and such a trilith as the " Three Stones" at Littleton Drew, distin- guished, as they all are, by their position on conspicuous long barrows, are monuments which on many grounds must have been attractive to a superstitious and half-heathen people. In illustration of this last remark, I may here refer to an ancient standing-stone, or menhir, called " Long Stone," in the parish of Minchin Hampton, Gloucestershire. It is seven or eight feet in height, and stands on a slight elevation, the remains. Dr. Thurnam thinks, of one of the chambered long barrows common in this part of Gloucestershire. Near the bottom of the stone is a natural perforation, through which, not many years since, children, brought from a considerable distance for the purpose, used to be passed for the cure and prevention of disease, and in particular for the relief of whooping-cough and measles. The stone in fact is a holed stone, a 7Jien-an-tol or tobnen, like those so called in Cornwall, which are resorted to by the peasantry for similar superstitious purposes.^ To my mind, the weight of evidence is very much in favour of the supposition that monoliths and trilithons were placed in, and upon tumuli — and constitute the temple at Stonehenge — because they possessed a symbolical meaning. ^ Natural chasms in rocks or holes in the earth, of unknown origin, have been regarded as emblems of the celestial mother. There is much curious information on this subject in Godfrey Higgins' " Anacalypsis," where we are told that the early Christian preachers found the custom in Yorkshire, and tried to abolish it by cursing the sacred chasms, and naming them Cunni Diaboli, Lysons, in " Our British Ancestors," also gives some interesting observations on perforated stone entrances to chambered tumuli, &c., and quotes from a "Journey to the East," by Miss Ellwood, as follows :- "There is a sacred perforated stone at Malabar, through which penitents squeezed themselves in order to obtain a remission of their sins." I20 Round Barrows. Nearly every one has his theory about Stonehenge — this is my theory, and it seems to me to receive strong confirmation from the discoveries made in the chambered long barrows of this district. Mode of Burial in Chambered Long Barrows. — The method of burial in chambered tumuli is by the inhumation of the entire body, to the exclusion, almost absolute, of cremation. The bodies had in general been placed round the sides of the chamber, in a sitting or crouching posture, or otherwise reclining in the same contracted position on the floor. In the chamber at Rodmarton there were the remains of as many as thirteen bodies, and in others there were from three to fourteen. Cleft Skulls. — "In the year 1855," says Dr. Thurnam, "in one of the cists of the chambered barrow at Littleton Drew, I first observed portions of a skull of which the fractured edges were very sharp, suggesting the idea of having been cleft during life. Such cleft skulls have since been met with in the majority of the long barrows, both chambered and uncham- bered, which I have had the opportunity of examining." Leaf-shaped arrow-heads of flint, of delicate proportions and workmanship, of the type shown in Figs. 55 and 56, were met with in the undisturbed chamber at Rodmarton. It is curious that, in every instance, the points of these arrow heads were broken off when found. ROUND BARROWS. The great majority of the ancient sepulchral tumuli of Wilt- shire, as of the rest of England, belong to the class of Round Barrows. Most of these, there is reason to believe, belong to a period anterior to the firm establishment of the Roman power in Britain, about the last third of the first century of our era. It seems probable that it was not the usual practice of the Saxon-conquerors of Wessex to raise tumuli over their dead. In the true ancient British (or pre-Roman) tumuli of Wiltshire we have not to do with objects of iron, only with those of bronze and stone. Dr. Thurnam has divided round barrows into the following classes : — 1. Bowl-shaped Barrows. 2. Bell-shaped Barrows. 3. Disc-shaped Barrows. I. The Bowl-shaped Barrow, see Fig. 61, is the simplest Boivl-shaped and Bell-shapcd Barrows. 121 Fig. 61. Bowl-shaped Barrow.' form of tumulus, and that most frequently met with. In height they vary from three to five feet. In diameter, the usual limits are between twenty and sixty feet, though in rare instances one hundred feet are reached and even exceeded. 2. The Bell-shaped Barrow, see Fig. 62, is an elegant form Fig. 62. Bell-shaped Barrow. - of tumulus. It is surrounded by a circular ditch, from which part of the material of the mound has been dug, and within this there is a flat circular area on the same level as the surrounding turf In the centre of this platform stands the tumulus, which is usually of greater size than the bowl-shaped barrow, and varies from about five to fifteen feet in elevation. It is likewise steeper in proportion to its size, and is conse- quently more conical in outline. Many of the bell-shaped barrows have a diameter approach- ing to one hundred feet, which it may be remembered is that of the outer circle of stones at Stonehenge, but not a few con- siderably exceed this dimension. The bell-shaped barrow is by far more numerous and of more beautiful form in Wiltshire, * '* Archaeologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 290, Fig, I. 2 Ibid, p. 292, Fig. 2. 12 2 Disc-shaped Barrows. and especially on the plain around Stonehenge, than in any other part of England. In both bowl-shaped and bell-shaped barrows (primary) in- terments by simple inhumation and by cremation have taken place, in the proportion of one of the former to three of the latter 3. The disc-shaped Barrow, see Fig. 63, is so named, by Fm. 63. Disc-shaped Barrow. ^ Dr. Thurnam, from its resemblance to a circular flat dish surrounded by a deep rim. This form of tumulus consists of a circular area, on the same level as the surrounding turf, generally about one hundred feet in diameter, though some- times much less, and sometimes nearly double the size. The inclosed area is surrounded by a ditch with a bank on the outside, both very regularly formed. In the centre there is usually a small mound of slight elevation, not more than one foot in height ; sometimes there are two, or even three, such mounds, corresponding to so many sepulchral deposits. So insignificant are these central mounds that they are scarcely recognised as tumuli by the casual observer. The disc-shaped, like the bell-shaped, barrows are more common around Stone- henge than in any other part of Wiltshire, and in other parts of England are of very infrequent occurrence. We shall pass between two very good examples of the disc-shaped barrow about mid-way between Stonehenge and the " Druid's Head." In three instances, Stukeley shows that a Roman road passes across or encroaches upon a disc-shaped barrow, proving that the barrow was pre-Roman. Stukeley's accuracy m this statement may be still verified in the case of one, if not two, barrows at Woodyates, Dorset, and in that of another near Beckhampton, North Wilts ; but all trace of that on the line of the Roman road, near West Kennet, to which he refers, is now obliterated. The proof thus afforded of the prior date of ^ " Archseologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 293, Fig. 3. Methods of l7iter7tient in Rouiid Ba7'rows. 123 the tumuli Is the more important, as of all forms of British barrows the disc-shaped is probably the latest. Almost without exception the interments in disc-shaped barrows have taken place by cremation, the ashes being de- posited in small dished graves scooped out in the chalk rock. From the profusion of ornaments of amber, glass, and jet, as well as the small size of the bronze blades found in disc-shaped barrows, it is supposed that they were the burial-places of women. METHODS OF INTERMENT IN ROUND BARROWS. The Wiltshire barrows are constructed from the materials at hand — vegetable mould, chalk, and flints. The smaller bar- rows are generally formed of chalk, mould, and turf only. The larger ones have usually a stratum of chalk and one of mould at the base ; above this a greater or less pile of flint nodules, at times of sarsen stones, and then a stratum of chalk, often several feet in thickness. Generally speaking, the primary interments, those over which the barrows were originally raised, were placed in the centre, either on the natural level, or in graves excavated to a greater or less depth in the chalk below. The interments in Wiltshire round barrows have taken place both by cremation and by simple inhumation, in the proportion of about three of the former to one of the latter. In Dorsetshire, the interments by cremation are in still greater excess over those by inhuma- tion ; whilst in Yorkshire the proportions are nearly equal ; although the excess is on the other side. Possibly, burial by simple inhumation may have been the more ancient method, but many observations show that the two practices must often have been strictly contemporary. Interments by Simple Ifihumatio7i. — As a rule the body was placed on the natural level of the ground, or in a shallow grave, formed by peeling-off the turf and scooping out the surface of the chalk to the depth of a few inches, or at the most a foot. In some instances this grave, or " cist" is as deep as from six to ten feet, see Fig. 64. For the most part, the corpse was interred without the use of any kind of coffin. The body was often protected by a pile of flints, or as in the barrow at East Kennet, near Avebury, Wilts, by blocks of sarsen stone of considerable size, see Fig. 65. Contracted Posture of Skeleto7is. — In Wiltshire round bar- 124 Interments by Inhumatioti. — Contracted Posture of Skeletons, rows of the ancient British period, without recorded exception, the skeleton has been found in a contracted posture, with the knees drawn up towards the trunk, the legs bent on the thighs, and the arms more or less drawn up towards the chest and face, as shown in Figs. 64 and d^. According to some writers, I Fig. 64. Section of Bell-shaped Barrow, at Winterslow, Wilts, with grave FOUR FEET DEEP, AND SECONDARY BURNT INTERMENTS IN UrNS INVERTED.' Fig. 65. Section of Bowl-shaped Barrow, with grave five feet deep, at Eas Kennet, near Avebury, Wilts. - this doubled-up posture is regarded as none other than that of the unborn infant, which was imposed upon the dead, when about to re-enter the bosom of the universal mother. In fact, it has been held to have been symbolical of a belief, not only in a life to come, but likewise in that of the resurrection of the body. ' : ' " Archaeologia, " vol. xliii., part 2, p. 322, Fig. 10. 2 Ibid, vol. xliii., part 2, p. 315, Fig. 6. Austral Aspect of Skeletons. 125 In other parts of England the extended posture of the skeleton is very rarely found. According to Dr. Thurnam, Canon Greenwell met with but a single instance out of the large number of barrows he has opened. In 1849, Mr. Ruddock opened a large barrow near Cawthorn Camps, N. R. Yorkshire, in which were two skeletons extended side by side at the bottom of a grave eleven feet deep, see Fig. 66. --*,,^'"^ -'—-'=«- "" ^■'iSJ^^^^^^^^^^^Q.^^^— -rC^ ^r^^'^'^^:zj^. iirr-^ciE ,L™, ^T""^ 'it*'*^^-* Fig. ^^. Section of Bowl-shaped Barrow near Cawthorn Camps, N. E. Yorkshire, with strata of burnt clay, grave eleven FEET DEEP, AND TWO SKELETONS EXTENDED. ^ Austral Aspect of Skeleto7is. — The ancient Britons of this district deposited the body, for the most part, in the meridian line, with the head to the north, and consequently with a south aspect. Some few instances are recorded in which the head was placed to the east, south-east, and south-west, but in no instance has the head been found directed to the south, and the aspect, therefore, boreal.^ The deviations from a southern aspect are more frequent towards the west than to- wards the east ; pointing probably to the greater number of deaths in winter, when the sunrise is to the south of east. Interments with the head to the west, or orientated as in most Christian burials are very rare. ^ " Archseologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 319, Fig. 8. " The boreal aspect was the favorite one with the Pagan Anglo-Saxon?, in later times. 126 Interments by Cremation. Interments by Cremation. — When cremation was practised, the barrow was seldom raised upon the site of the funeral pile ; it is probable that the rite of cremation was at times per- formed at a distance, and the incinerated remains alone brought for interment to the place of burial, say some hallowed spot, like the neighbourhood of Stonehenge. When not col- lected into an urn, the burned bones (carefully separated from the wood ashes) seem to have been wrapped in skins or some kind of cloth, before they were deposited in the shallow grave or "cist." This "cist" was scooped out of the chalk, to a depth frequently of no more than a few inches, or, perhaps, one or two feet, see Fig. 67 ; though sometimes they were sunk to a greater depth. Fig. 67. Section op Disc-shaped Barrow at Winterbourne Stoke, Wilts, with Burnt Bones and Urn in Shallow Graves. ^ Urn Burial. — In Wiltshire, the Ancient Britons, more fre- quently collected the burnt bones into cinerary urns, in the proportion of three to one. In Dorsetshire, this proportion is almost exactly reversed. The urns were sometimes placed upright, at others in an inverted position, as shown in the secondary interments in Fig. 64, the inverted is the more usual position ; urns of large size are almost invariably found inverted. The mouths of the urns are sometimes stopped with unburnt clay, firmly rammed in, or their contents are secured with closely packed flints. Some- times the mouth of the urn was covered by a large flat stone. Very commonly, the urn, when deposited, was protected by being inclosed in a heaped-up pile of flints. Objects Deposited with the Dead. — These consist of fictile vessels, implements and weapons of bone, stone, and bronze, personal ornaments, and the remains of animals. Our know- ledge of the pottery of the ancient Britons is founded on the numerous examples obtained from the barrows. It is all more or less rude, formed of clay mixed with minute pebbles, with fragments of broken flint, or sometimes with pounded chalk or ^ " Archseologia, " vol. xliii., part 2, p. 325, Fig. 11. Cmerary Urns. 127 shells. For the finer vessels, the clay has been tempered with grit or sharp sand. All seems to have been hand-made, there is no evidence of the use of the potter's wheel. The firing of most of this pottery has been very imperfect ; it was probably first partly dried by exposure to the air, and then baked in the ashes of a fire lighted over and around it.^ Some of the finer vessels may have been more carefully fired in a rude kiln of piled-up stones. The surface ornamentation of our British pottery has been variously produced. In some instances the pattern was pro- duced by the tip of the thumb of the potter — the impress of which and of the thumb-nail are plainly to be seen. Some- times the pattern is due to the impress of a twisted cord. Much of the ornamentation has been accomplished by means of some pointed instrument, probably of wood or bone. Again, in the finer vessels, the ornament is entirely of a stippled or punctured nature, made with a fine pin, or with many pins inserted comb-fashion in the edge of a stick, perhaps even by means of a comb-like instrument such as that used by savages in tattooing. The patterns are chiefly such as can be produced by combinations of straight lines. Circles and animal forms are not found in the decorations of ancient British pottery, but curved lines and what may be imitations of vegetable foliage are met with in rare cases. The true cinerary urn was probably made to contain ashes, and the " incense-cup" may likewise have been usually designed for funereal rites, both must be regarded as forms of sepulchral pottery. The decorated food-vessel and drinking-cup, though made for the living, were habitually buried with the dead, and hence pass over into the sepulchral class. Cinerary Urns. — These are of every size, from the capacity of less than a pint to that of more than a bushel. Those from nine to ten inches in height are medium sized, those from one foot to fifteen inches are large, and above this height they are exceptionally large, and very rare. The largest urn, hitherto found in Wiltshire,^ is barrel-shaped, and measures over twenty- four inches in height, see Fig. 68. It is preserved in the Black- more Collection, at Salisbury, and was exhumed from a barrow * The notorious "Flint Jack" invariably Jired his "British Urns!" in this manner. The native American method is similar. 2 Thurnam, " Anc. Brit. Barrows," in " Archaeologia, " vol. xliii., part 2, p. 344, 353> Fig. 28. 128 The Bishopsio7i Urn. Tig. 68. Urn from Bowl-shaped Barrow at Bishopston, Wilts. Height 24| inches.' at Bishopston by Mr. F. Sidford, Dr. Blackmore, and myself, in 1867. The barrow was probably never of any great height, and the plough had nearly reduced it to the level of the sur- rounding soil ; at length the plough-share struck the urn, fortunately without doing much mischief Mr. Sidford is a staunch archaeologist, and instead of breaking-up the vessel, in order to see whether it was brittle, a mode of proceeding by no means unusual, he left things as they were, and rode into Salisbury to secure our help ; the result is that the largest urn at present found in Wiltshire has escaped destruction. The decoration of this urn is of the "thumb-nail" kind. Nearly 1 cc Arclijeologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 350, Fig, 28. ' ' Incense Cups. " 129 all the surface soil, which may at one time have coated this barrow had been removed by the plough, it resembled a heap of flints ready to lay upon a road, for they were not unworked nodules — all had been flaked, and they may have been in- tended to serve as a kind of relieving arch over the interment, such as that formed of sarsen blocks shown in Fig. 65. On removing the flints, we find that the urn had been placed in a shallow " cist" scooped out in the chalk ; the natural surface of the chalk was sloping, so that the cist was not a hole, but formed a crescent-shaped protecting-wall around the urn, which was inverted over a large quantity of ashes, burnt almost to a powder, no objects were found associated with the interment. Barrel-shaped urns, although rather common in the barrows of Dorset, are rare in those of Wiltshire, only one, from a barrow within a third of a mile of Stonehenge, is figured by Sir Richard Hoare. It is the largest obtained by him entire, and measures over twenty-two inches in height. Cinerary urns have been divided by Dr. Thurnam^ into the following classes : — a. With Overhanging Rim. e. Flower-pot shaped. b. With Moulded Rim. f. Cylindrical. c. With Border in place of Rim. g. Globular. d. Barrel-shaped. Of These a are the most common. A cinerary urn found at Bulford, Wilts, is shown in Fig. 69. Some of the cinerary urns have cracked, perhaps in making, and occasionally neatly- bored holes occur on each side of the crack, evidently to admit of the passage of a thong or cord, by means of which the vessel might be held together. Incense Cups. — The small fictile vessels, first named "In- cense Cups" by Hoare, are a rather frequent accompaniment of interments after cremation. They are much less common in the barrows of Dorset than in those of Wiltshire. They seldom exceed two inches in height \ their capacity ranging from about the twelfth to the fourth of a pint. The variety in form is very great. Dr. Thurnam has divided them in three principal classes. a. The Simple Cup. b. The Contracted Cup. c. The Expanded Cup. ^ "Anc. Brit. Barrows," l.c.^ pp. 345 — 357. K 130 Sepulchral Pottery. Fig. 69. Urn from Btjlford, Wilts. Height 12J inches.^ and he again subdivides these three classes.^ Examples of the " Expanded Cup" are confined to the barrows of the south- west of England, and almost to Wiltshire ; even there it is of rare occurrence, no more than five examples being known. A very large proportion of these little vessels are pierced on one side only with two holes, from half an inch to two inches apart. It may be that a thong or string was intended to be passed through these holes, which would thus form a loop, and enable the vessel to be carried in the hand. In rare examples, these vessels have been provided with holes on both sides, the use of two thongs, one on either side, would have served more completely to keep the vessel upright when carried, the two loops in such a case would serve the purpose of the cross- handles to a basket. A variety of the " Expanded Cup" has been named, by Dr. Thurnam, the '' Basket Cup ;" in these the sides are open and resemble basket-work. The best example of this variety is from Wiltshire, and is shown in Fig. 70. It was obtained, by the late Mr. Albert Way, from a tumulus at Bulford, four miles from Stonehenge. ^ " Archseologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 350, Fig. 27. 2 I.e. pp. 359—377- ^' Ince?ise Clips''' a?icl Food Vessels. 131 Fig 70. Incense Cup from Bulpord, Wilts.' f. Food Vessels. — This form of fictile vessel is found with both burnt and unburnt bodies. Dr. Thurnam distinguishes four varieties of Food Vessels : — a. Undecorated Urn-shaped. b. Partially decorated Urn-shaped. c. Decorated Bowl-shaped. d. Decorated shallow Bowl-shaped. Food vessels are rare in the barrows of Wiltshire and the South of England, there are no examples in the Stourhead Museum ; but they become common as we go northwards, and in the barrows of Derbyshire and Staffordshire they are of frequent occurrence, and are still more so in Yorkshire. In Scotland they are likewise common, but are commonest of all in Ireland. Food vessels, as well as "drinking cups," are generally found upright ; they have probably contained food and drink placed in the tomb as offerings. Drinking Cups. — The most handsome of the fictile vessels of the Ancient Britons are the drinking cups. They are usually tall vessels of seven or eight inches in height, thin and well baked, made from clay tempered with sand or finely pounded stone. The general capacity is from two to three pints, though a few contain less than one, and others as much as four pints. Drinking cups are the accompaniment of unburnt bodies, and were placed in the grave near the head, or, more frequently ^ *' Archccologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 366, Fig. 50. K 2 132 Drinking Clips. Fig. 71. Drinking Cup, from East Kennett, Wilts. Height 71 inches.^ (In Wiltshire twice as often), near the feet. Drinking cups occur more often in the barrows of Wiltshire than in those of any other part of England. Dr. Thurnam has arranged Drinking cups in three classes : — a. High-brimmed Globose Cup. b. Ovoid Cup with Recurved Rim. c. Low-brimmed Cup. *' Archaeologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 392, Fig. 83- Drinkijig Cups. 133 Fig. 72. Drinking Cup, pound with Secondary Interment, WiLSFORD Long Barrow, Wilts. 1 The High-brimmed Globose Drinking Cup {a) is the pre- vailing type in South Britain, and to it four-fifths, probably, of the known examples belong. The ornamentation is profuse and elaborate, see Fig. 71. The Drinking Cup shown in Fig. 7 2 was found with a secondary interment in a long barrow at Wilsford, opened by Dr. Thurnam. The interment had ^ " Archreologia, " vol. xlii., part I, p. 196, Fig. 5. 134 Stone Implemeiits fowid in Round Barrows. been by inhumation, in the contracted or crouched position, and close to the skull was found the drinking cup, it is, says Dr. Thurnam, '' of the latest highly decorated type, such as are usually only met with in the most modern circular British tumuli; and have in no case been found with the primary interments of long barrows." The skull found with the drinking cup was of the usual broad type (brachycephalous) found in the round barrows, and not of the long type present in primary interments in long barrows. Such instances go to prove the greater relative antiquity of the long barrows, for no instance of a secondary interment of the long barrow kind has been observed in a round barrow. Stone Bnplements found in the Round Barrows of Wiltshire. — The Round Barrows of this county are to be referred to the Bronze Age, and the presence of implements of stone in some of them does not militate against this ; for implements of stone continued to be used for many purposes both in the Bronze Age and the Iron Age. Of the stone implements found by Sir R. C. Hoare, in the large number of barrows opened by him, there were only four wedge-shaped hatchets ; these were associated with unburnt bodies, and three of the specimens were found with the same interment, in a barrow at Upton Lovel. Of other classes of stone implements, there were found seven perforated hammers or hammer-axes, four with unburnt, three with burnt bodies. Five are true hammer-axes, with a cutting-edge at one end, and a rounded or flat-butt end at the other. Of the other two, one is of ovoid form, and the other, shown in Fig. 73, was found in a barrow, near Wilsford, a village through which we passed after leaving Lake House ; this specimen is without a true cutting-edge. Only two other perforated axes are stated to have been found in barrows near Stonehenge, one is preserved in the British Museum, the other is in the Christy Collection. Sir R. C. Hoare found celts or dagger-blades of bronze associated with three of the stone hammer-axes exhumed by him, showing that bronze and stone implements were in contemporary use. Flint dagger-blades, although common in Denmark, are of rare occurrence in the barrows of this country. Leaf-shaped flint javelin-heads have in rare instances been found in the barrows of Wiltshire. Dr. Thurnam had the good fortune to find a set of four in an oval barrow at Winterbourn Stoke, about a mile and a half to the Flint Arrow-heads fou7id in Round Barrows. 135 Fig. 73. Stone Hammee-axe ok Maul. From Wilsford, Wilts.' §• left of our homeward route. These are very remarkable for the elegance of their form and workmanship, all the surfaces and edges being elaborately chipped, see Fig. 74. Three are of a delicate leaf-shape ; the fourth is lozenge-shaped. They lay at the head of a doubled-up skeleton. Smaller leaf-shaped flints, evidently arrow-heads, are occasionally met with in the barrows, though very rarely in those of Wiltshire. Barbed flint arrow-heads are found both with burnt bodies and with inter- ments after cremation. The beautiful specimen shown in Fig. 75 was found in a barrow at Woodyates, Dorset ; and was figured by Hoare. It is remarkable for the great size and inward curvature of its barbs, thrice the length of the stem. According to several finds, it would appear that from three to six arrow-heads constituted an outfit. With the four found with the Woodyates interment was a large bronze dagger-blade, again showing the contemporary use of stone and bronze weapons. Flint flakes, and knives and scrapers of flint, occur in the barrows. In not a few barrows, in more or less proximity to the interments, flakes of flint and pieces of broken pottery, " Shards, flints, and pebbles," are found in considerable numbers ; the traces, it may be, of a ' " Archaeologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 411, Fig. 97. 136 Flint arrow-heads foimd in Round Bai-rows. pagan custom, referred to in a well-known passage of Shakes- peare. Bone pins occur in the bar- rows as well as many objects made from bone. Bronze. — The objects of bronze from the Wiltshire barrows very much exceed those of stone. All the bronze celts are of the Fig. 74. Leaf-shaped Flint Fig. 7.5. Stemmed and Barbed Javelin-head, found in Oval Flint Arrow-head. From Barrow at Winterbotjrne Woodyates, Dorset. ^ }. Stoke, Wilts. ^ wedge-shaped (earlier) type; the specimen shown in Fig. 76 was found, associated with gold ornaments, in " Bush Bar- row," Normanton, close to our route; it measures 6^ inches in length, 2^ in breadth, and is only ^ inch in greatest thickness. It has side-flanges, and slightly thickens towards the middle, there being a sharp transverse line on both sides from which the bevelled surfaces slope, corresponding to the stop in the palstave type of celt. No other tumuli in England have been so productive of bronze dagger-blades as those of ^ I am indebted to Mr. John Evans, F.R.S., for the loan of this wood- block. It is from his valuable work, '*Anc. Stone Impts. of Gt. Brit.," p. 331, Fig. 274. It also appears in the " Arch^eologia, " vol. xliii., part 2, p. 414, Fig. loi^. ^ " Archaeologia," vol. xliii,, part 2, p. 418, Fig. 107. Bronze Implements found in Round Barrows. 1 3 7 Wiltshire. They occur rather more frequently with unburnt bodies, than with burnt. With three of the smaller blades were the remains of sheaths of wood. With six of larger size were traces of similar sheaths, two of them lined with linen, " the web of which was still to be distinguished." One of these scabbards had been highly ornamented " with in- dentations which had certainly been gilt." The remains of handles were often noticed, these were fre- quently of wood. In some in- stances, the handles had been strengthened by an oval pom- mel of bone. One miniature knife, in the Stourhead collec- tion, is elegantly mounted in a handle formed of two pieces of amber, secured by two rivets and bound with four strips of gold. The bronze blade is only half an inch in length, and is fixed at a right angle with its handle, which is one inch in length. The only perfect bronze dag- ger from a tumulus in Wilt- shire is of the thin broad- bladed variety. The handle is of wood, held together by thirty rivets of bronze, and strengthened at the end by an oblong bone pommel fastened with two pegs. It is decorated by dots incised in the surface of the wood, forming a border of double lines, and circles between the heads of the rivets. It was found at Milston, about four miles to the north-east of 1 " Archi-eologia," vol. xliii., part 2, p. 444, Fig. 147. Fig. 73. Bronze Wedge-shaped Celt. From "'Bush Barrow," N ORM ANTON, Wilts. 1 §. 138 The Brofize Age divided into Two Periods. Stonehenge. The handle of one of the largest Wiltshire daggers (blade 10)^ inches long), is a marvellous specimen of delicate workmanship. It is of wood, studded with an infinity of gold pins of almost microscopic size, forming a beautiful zigzag pattern ; it was found in " Bush Barrow," Normanton. Personal ornaments of bronze are of rare occurrence in British tumuli, and very few have been found in our county. A fine bronze bracelet encircling the arm of a skeleton was found in a barrow at Normanton, near Stonehenge. It is a broad flat band, profusely ornamented with vertical and hori- zontal lines, and with chevrons at the ends, which overlap. In the barrows of Wiltshire, the ornaments most frequently met with are of amber, of which we have seen such good examples in the Lake Collection.^ The implements and weapons of bronze found associated with primary interments in British round-barrows are, as we have seen, 7vedge-shaped celts and dagger-blades. Socketed celts, leaf-shaped swords, gouges, and chisels, although of fre- quent occurrence in " finds," are not met with in these barrows ; and, on the other hand, wedge-shaped celts and dagger blades (such as those found in these barrows), are not present in the " finds." This circumstance has led many to suppose that the Bronze Age, like the Stone Age, is susceptible of subdivision into two periods. " I argue," says Canon Greenwell, " that these different sets of implements belong to quite two different periods in the use of bronze. The one to the early period, when bronze was extremely scarce, and stone was the general material in use for a variety of implements ; the other and later period, that of these great ' finds,' in which have been discovered the sword, and the spear, and the celt, belonging to a time when stone, though yet to some extent in use, had been largely superseded by bronze. "^ Our Wiltshire barrows, ac- cording to this, belong to the earlier part of the Bronze Age, we may alm.ost say to a period when the use of stone over- lapped that of bronze ; for, " there are periods of over- lapping," says Mr. Evans, "when the one Age shades off into the other, and in the case of both bronze and stone antiquities it is very difficult indeed to assign to a given specimen a definite date, or to say that any one Neolithic implement was ^ Ante, pp. 60 — 61, Figs, if — 20. - "Proceed. Soc. Antiq.," 2nd series, vol. v., pp. 414, 415. Chronology of the Bronze Age in Britain. 139 in use at a time when bronze was absolutely unknown."^ Still these ages appear to have succeeded each other in definite order. *' As to the chronology of the Bronze Period in Britain, we are to a great extent at fault. We know that when this country was first invaded by the Romans iron was in use, and probably had been for some centuries, as we know to have been the case in Gaul and Germany. But though, at the time of the Roman Invasion, the Bronze Period may be said to have ceased in this country, it is almost impossible to say at what date it may have commenced, nor indeed absolutely at what date it ceased. No doubt there was an over-lapping of the Bronze into the Iron Period. Still it does appear to me by no means improbable," adds Mr. Evans, ''that bronze celts may have remained in this country down to, at all events, within a century or so of the invasion of Caesar. What may be eventually discovered as to the duration of the Bronze Period in Britain no one can foretell, but at the present time we can only say, from the number of objects found, and the different circumstances under which they have been dis- covered, that in all probability it extended over a period of several hundred years. We may by means of ' finds' to some extent assign different articles to different portions of the Bronze Period, but to how early a date the use of the small knife-daggers^ and the plain celts may extend, is, to my mind, a problem which is not likely soon to receive a satisfactory answer."^ One thing seems tolerably certain, bronze implements were made in Britain, and were not (at all events, generally) intro- duced into this country ready-cast, by means of traffic or barter. Moulds for casting such implements have been found in Britain, as well as all the tools likely to have been required by the pre-historic bronze-founder, associated with the waste of manufacture, and imperfectly cast weapons. In a " find" of bronze objects, in the Isle of Harty (part of the Isle of Sheppey), were rough pieces of metal as well as cast imple- ments. There was also a mould for casting socketed celts, ^ Evans, "Proceed. Soc. Antiq.," 2nd series, vol. v., p. 393. " Such as are found associated with primary interments in our Wiltshire round harrows. •* " Proceed. Soc. Antiq.," 2nd series, vol. v., pp. 411, 412. T40 Bronze Implements cast in Britain. consisting of two halves, which fit together with a couple of dowels, also a celt that had been cast in this very mould, for there is a particular hollow on one face of the mould and a corresponding projection on the celt. Upon attempting to fit this celt into the mould the cutting-edge was found to be both too broad and too long — the celt had been hammered, and, as it were, tempered after it was cast. In the " find" was a bronze hammer with which this (probably) had been effected ; the founder seems to have understood how to mix his metals, for the hammer is not cast of ordinary bronze, but of another alloy of, copper and tin, so as to give it greater hardness. Even the whetstone, that may have served in giving the finished edge to the celt, was included in the '' Harty find." The socket-hole of such a celt was (probably) formed by means of a clay " core," in some unfinished celts this core is still to be seen, the question arises how would these hard- burnt clay cores have been removed ? This receives an answer from the presence of a pointed tool in the " Harty find," which was probably used as a pick to get out the cores after the celts had been cast, and this receives some support from the circumstance that the old founder had broken off the point of one of these tools, at a place exactly corre- sponding with the depth of the celt-socket.^ Mr. Franks adds his testimony to the opinion that even ready-mixed bronze was not imported into Britain, but that the alloy was made in this country, as required from time to time. " It seems quite un- questionable," he says, " that the greater part of the bronze types found in Britain were made in this country ; we find the moulds, the imperfectly cast weapons, and also the lumps of pure copper from which they were made, and it is there- fore absolutely certain that the ancient brass-founders were using tin on the spot at the time that they made the imple- ments. "^ Ornaments of Gold. — Trinkets of gold were found in seven Wiltshire tumuH, in four with unburnt, and in three with burnt bodies. In most of these there were several objects of the precious metal, and altogether nineteen golden ornaments or sets of ornaments may be enumerated. All, as Sir R. C. Hoare believed, were formed by first modelling in wood, and ^ See Evans, " Proceed. Soc. Antiq.," 2nd series, vol. v., pp. 408, 409. ^ " Proceed. Soc. Antiq.," 2nd series, vol. v., p. 418. Remains of Animals. 141 covering the wooden nucleus, with a plate of gold, which was made to overlap, and then fastened by indentation. One large doubly-conical bead, made of two such plates, is orna- mented with concentric rings, and per- forated lengthwise. Fig. "]"] b,it was found at Normanton, near Stonehenge. Other examples of gold ornaments are shown in Fig. 77. Remains of Animals. — Antlers and bones of the red-deer and the roe-deer occur in the Wiltshire barrows. Two antlers of roe-deer were found, with an interment, in a tumulus at Figheldean, with two bronze dagger-blades ; they are right and left horns, which have not been shed, one of them is reduced in length, apparently with a knife. In this same barrow were likewise the left tusks of three large boars. These, with the asso- ciated human crania, were presented to the Salisbury Museum, by the late E. Dyke Poore, Esq. Remains of domesticated herbivorous animals are rarely met with in the round barrows. Some skulls of oxen i^Bos longif'ons) have been found. In a few tumuli remains of dogs have been met with. In one barrow (Anc. Wilts I. 86), a horse had been buried near the summit, over an interment by cremation. On comparing the fauna of the Round barrows with that of the Long barrows it does not appear that the one is sepa- rated from the other by any marked line. The group of mammalia is distinguished from that found in Quaternary deposits, such as that at Fisherton, by the absence of certain animals, and by the presence of Bos lo7igifrons, dog, goat, and (per- haps) sheep. 1 (( Archgeologia," vol. xliii. , part 2, p. 525, Fig. 2i_^ — 17. 142 Remains of Man. — Stwunary. Remains of Man. — The type of human skull found in the Round barrows is of the short or round form {brachy cephalic) ; not a single example of the really lengthened form {dolichoce- phalic), has been met with in a round barrow. The people of the Long-barrow Stone Age were of less than middle stature ; those of the Round-barrow Bronze Age were tall. The mean stature, derived from 52 measurements, was five feet six inches for the men of the Long barrows, and five feet nine inches for those of the Round barrows.^ To sum up what has been said, in Dr. Thurnam's own words. " The Long Barrows, in accordance with the geological cha- racter of the districts in which they occur, are either simple tumuli of earth, chalk rubble and flints, as in South Wilts and Dorsetshire ; or they contain more or less elaborately built-up chambers, galleries or cists of large stones, as in North Wilts and Gloucestershire. Whether, however, they enclose mega- lithic chambers or not, the sepulchral deposits are almost invariably found at or near the broad and high end of the tumulus, which is generally directed towards the east. But, what is most important, in no case whatever have the primary interments yielded objects of metal, whether bronze or iron ; though in several instances implements or weapons of bone and stone have been found with them. Among the latter are specially to be noticed certain delicate, well-chipped arrow- heads of flint, of a leaf-shape ; and probably, as at Uley, axe- heads of flint and green-stone, both polished. I therefore think we do not err in attributing this form of tumulus, as it occurs in the south-west of England, to the Neolithic period, and to a period when the burning of the dead, though not unknown, was not a generally received or favourite method of disposing of their remains. "The Round Barrows, whether simply conoid or bowl- shaped, or of the more elaborate bell or disc forms, are very much more numerous than the long barrows of the same district. They much more frequently cover interments after cremation than by simple inhumation ; in the proportion of at least three of the former to one of the latter. As, however, the objects found with the burnt bones, and with the entire skeletons in this class of barrows, do not difl"er in character, but in addition to implements and weapons of stone (including ^ Thurnam, "Mem. Anthrop. Soc," vol. iii., p. 71. Difference in the Cranial Type. 143 beautifully barbed arrow heads of flint), not unfrequently com- prise other implements of bro7ize, and also the finer and more decorated sorts of ancient British Jictilia, — the so-called " drinking cups" and " incense cups" — we may safely conclude that all are of the same Bronze Age, during which, in this part of Britain, cremation, though not the exclusive, was the pre- vailing mode of interment."^ The following is a " summary," says Dr. Thurnam, " of the inferences which seem fairly dedacible from the observed facts, as interpreted by the light of those scanty historical notices which have come down to us. " I. The skulls from the primary interments in the long barrows of Wiltshire and Gloucestershire, and it is believed of south Britain in general, are of a strongly marked dolicho- cephalic type, having a mean breadth-index of -71; which is much lower than that of any modern European people. No brachycephalic skull, with a breadth-index of 'So or up- wards, has been obtained from the primeval interments in these barrows. No objects of metal or decorated pottery are known to have been found with these interments, but only those of stone, bone or horn. We therefore refer these long barrows to the Stone Age. " II. The skulls from the primary interments in the round barrows of the same districts, and it is believed of south Britain in general are of more or less brachycephalous propor- tions, having a mean breadth-index of "81 ; much higher than that now found in the population of any part of England and Wales.2 Objects of bronze, and very rarely of iron, and richly decorated pottery, are often found in them, with or without objects of stone. These round barrows therefore we refer to the Bronze Age, and to that of bronze and iron transition. " III. The skulls from secondary interments in the upper strata of the long barrows are in most cases of similar brachy- cephalous proportions with those from the primary interments in the round barrows. They have, in a few instances, been found in connection with decorated British pottery, altogether identical with that of the round barrows. They are doubtless ^Thurnam, "Anc. Brit. Barrows of Wilts," read at the Opening of the Blackmore Museum. See " Some Account of the Blackmore Mus.," published by the "Wilts. Archaeol. Soc," part i, pp. 38 — 40. 2 See Table by Dr. Beddoe. " Mem. Anthrop. Soc," ii., 350. 144 "^^^^ WiltsJm-e Dolichocephali. the remains of the same people as those by whom the circular barrows were erected ; and for all intents and purposes may be regarded as round-barrow skulls. '' IV. It has never been pretended that there is any neces- sary connection between long skulls and long barrows, or round skulls and round barrows ; and the dolichocephalic people who in this part of England buried in long barrows, may have elsewhere erected circular tumuli over their dead. The important question does not regard the form of their tombs, so much as the sequence of the two peoples in the order of time and civilization. As to this, it is contended that the long heads were the true primeval race ; and that they were succeeded by a taller, more powerful, and more civilized people, who gradually extended themselves, and became domi- nant through a great part, perhaps nearly the whole, of the island. "V. These British dolichocephalic or long-heads, are the earliest people whose sepulchral monuments can be shown to remain to us. The exploration of their tombs — the long barrows — show that they buried their dead entire, and almost always without cremation ; that they possessed herds of small short-horned oxen — the Bos longifrons, or Bos brachyceros — that they subsisted largely by the chase of the red-deer and wild boarj that some of their customs were barbarous in the extreme ; and in particular, that if not addicted to anthropo- phagism, they at least sacrificed many human victims, whose cleft skulls and half-charred bones are found in their tombs. " VI. The brachycephalous people, or round-heads, who buried in the round barrows, were more civilized than the dolichocephali ; and may be inferred to have brought with them the more common use, if not the first knowledge of bronze. The exploration of their tombs shows that burning the dead was with them the prevailing and fashionable, though not the exclusive mode of burial ; and the appearances are consistent with what we are told of the funerals of the Gauls (their sup- posed congeners), by Caesar and Pomponius Mela. From the same source, or the appearances in their tombs, we should infer that they had advanced from the nomadic, hunting and pastoral condition, to a more settled agricultural stage of culture ; and that if they had not altogether abandoned the more barbarous customs of their ancestors, and in particular Of'igin and Ethnic Affijiities of the Two Races, 145 that of human sacrifice, they had at least restricted them within narrow limits. "VII. There is no proof, nor is it the least probable, that the brachycephalic extirpated the earlier dolichocephalic people. It is far more likely that they reduced them to slavery, or drove them in part into the interior and western parts of the island. When once reduced to obedience, they may have lived with them on friendly terms, and even mingled with them in domestic relations. In some districts, the hrachycephali would probably entirely replace the earlier race ; whilst in others, the dolichocephali would live on under the supremacy of their more powerful neighbours. A mingling of the remains of the two peoples in their later tombs must almost certainly have ensued. " VIII. The two races, whose existence is made known to us by researches in the tumuli, are most naturally identified with the two peoples, strongly contrasted in their manners, whom Caesar describes in well known passages of the twelfth and fourteenth chapters of the 5th book of his Commentaries.^ According to this, the round-heads of the Bronze Age are the same as the agricultural people of the maritime districts, who are said by Caesar to have migrated from Belgic Gaul ; and the long-headed people of the Stone Age are the ancestors of the pastoral and less civilised tribes of the interior, reputed aboriginal, and who prior to the coming of the others — as to which event there is no certain note of time — must have occu- pied, and been dominant in the maritime parts, as well as in the interior of the island. " IX. The origin and ethnic affinities of these two peoples can only be discussed conjecturally and tentatively in the pre- sent state of science. An often-quoted passage in the Agricola of Tacitus seems however to indicate part of the probable 1 " Britanniae pars interior ab iis incolitur, quos natos in insula ipsa, memoria proditum dicunt. Maritima pars ab iis, qui praedse ac belli inferendi causa ex Belgis transierant ; qui omnes fere iis nominibus civi- tatum appellantur, quibus orti ex civitatibus eo pervenerant, et bello illato ibi remanserunt atque agros colere cceperunt. . . . Ex his omnibus longe sunt humanissimi, qui Cantium incolunt, quee regio est maritima omnis, neque multum a Gallica difFerunt consuetudine. Interiores plerique- frumenta non serunt, sed lacte et carne vivunt, pellibusque sunt vestiti." {B. G., v., 12, 14). Whilst it is seen that the Belgic tribes near the coast were comparatively civilized agriculturists, the people of the interior were much less cultivated, and still in the hunting and pastoral condition. L 146 Origin and Ethnic Affinities of the Two Races. solution.^ The great Roman historian points out, first, the dark complexion and curly hair of the western tribe of the Silures ; and, secondly, the similarity of the appearance of the southern Britons to their neighbours in Gaul. And he adduces the very obvious argument, from these differences of physiog- nomy and appearance, that the Silures were descended from the Iberians of Spain, whilst the southern and south-eastern Britons were derived from the people of the opposite coast of Gaul. As evidence of this last position, Tacitus refers to the similarity of the religion, language, moral and mental tempera- ment of the Britons and Gauls. It is not improbable that in this passage the Silures are named Kare^oxvv as a principal tribe, and as representative of others not like themselves, con- fined to the extreme west of the island. By Caesar, however, who knew nothing of the west of Britain, the Silures would be regarded as interior es, just as the regions producing tin were, and termed by him mediterranei. The proximi Gallis of Tacitus are clearly the same people as those of the maritima pars of Caesar. "X, The geographer Strabo is another important witness for a great difference in the features and personal characteristics of the Iberians and Gauls. In the course of his fourth book, he twice tells us that the Iberians differed entirely in their bodily conformation from the Gauls of both 'Celtica' and 'Belgica;' who he expressly says participated in the common Gaulish physiognomy.^ It is evident, that if we interpret this observa- tion of Strabo's by the light of that first quoted from Tacitus, we must picture the Iberians as a swarthy or melanous people, with dark complexion and curly dark hair. They would thus be strongly contrasted with the Gauls ; who by the classical writers are uniformly represented as fair or xanthous, and moreover as of tall stature. Compared with the Gauls, the Iberians, like other southern Europeans, were probably a people of short stature. We derive no light from the remains in the barrows, as to the colour of the hair and the complexion ^ Tac. Agric. xi. " Silurum colorati vultus torti plerumque crines (Jornandes adds, ' et nigri') et posita contra Hispania, Iberos veteres trajecisse easque sedes occupasse, fidem faciunt. Proximi Gallis et similes sunt. ... In universum tamen sestimanti Gallos vicinum solum occupasse credibile est." 2 Strabo, iv., I, § i.; iv., 2, § i. Tous Se Xoiirovs TaXariK^v /xey rijv Origin and Ethnic Affinities of the Two Races. 147 of the people buried in them : but they do enable us to ascertain a difference of stature. The measurement of the skeletons, and especially of the thigh-bones, from the long barrows and the round barrows respectively, clearly demon- strates that the dolichocephali of the former, as compared with the brachycephali of the latter, were a people of short stature. The mean height, as calculated from the measurement of 52 male skeletons or femora, was about 5 feet 6 inches in the one, and 5 feet 9 inches in the other, the average difference being no less than three inches. " XI. The cranial type of the ancient Iberians has not yet been so conclusively ascertained as is to be desired. But the examination of the large series of skulls of modern Spanish Basques, at Paris, as well as of such Spanish and Portuguese skulls as exist in English and Dutch collections, altogether justifies the presumption that the Iberians of antiquity were a decidedly dolichocephalous people. " XI I. The British brachychocephali of the Bronze Age are to be regarded as an offshoot, through the Belgic Gauls, from the great brachycephalous stock of central and north-eastern Europe and Asia ; in all the countries of which — France, Switzerland, South Germany, Bohemia, Poland, Russia, and Finland — the broad and short cranial type is still the prevailing one. " The earlier British dolichocephali of the Stone Age were, we, think, either derived from the ancient Iberians, or from a common source with that people. Not only was Spain peopled by the Iberian race, but even in historical times, a considerable part of Gaul ; and there is no improbability in the conclusion of its having occupied the British Islands likewise, as is, indeed, asserted by some ancient historians.^ ^ Dionysius and his paraphraser Priscian, say expressly that the Cassi- terides were peopled by the Iberians : — " populos tenuit quas fortis Iberi." [Dion., "Perieg." v., 563; Priscian, "Perieg." v., 578.] The Cassi- terides are termed by these writers the Western Isles whence tin proceeds — a mere paraphrase of the word Cassiterides, Under this last designation, as used by the ancients, not only the Scilly Isles, but the Damnonian pro- montory and coasts were generally included. The very ancient notice of the Cassiterides preserved by Strabo, represents the inhabitants as nomadic and pastoral, clothed in long tunics, covered by black mantles ; a garb identical with that of the ancient Iberians of Spain, who are likewise described by the geographers, Diodorus and Strabo, as inelanchlceni, or black robed. [Diod. Sic, lib. v., c. 33; Strabo, lib. iii., c. 3, § 7 ; c. 5> § 2.] L 2 148 Origin and EtJmic Affinities of the Two Races. "XIII. As to the origin of the Iberians themselves^ it is better to confess our ignorance, than to indulge in premature speculations. Some, — as Professor Vogt, would bring them from America, by way of a lost Atlantis, or ' connecting land between Florida and our own Continent, which in the middle tertiary (Miocene) period, was still above the water.' Others, as M. Broca, search for them in Northern Africa ; others, in the more or less far East : whilst Professor Huxley finds in their crania, as in those of the other dolichocephali of Western Europe, Australian affinities, though without deciding on * the ethnological value of the osteological resemblance.' " XIV. In conclusion, I am content with having established, from archaeological and osteological data, at least to my own satisfaction, the existence in this island of the west, of two distinct races in pre-Roman times. One of these, I may repeat, which had lost its supremacy, at least in the south of the island, being the earlier and dolichocephalic, was probably Tberic ; the other being the later and brachycephalic, was probably Gaulish, or in other words, Belgic."^ According to Dr. Thurnam's opinion then, the round-headed people of the Wiltshire round barrows " are to be regarded as an offshoot from the Belgic Gauls," they were in their Bronze Age, in what may, perhaps, be called the " Early Bronze Age."^ Now, how does this affect the period of the construction of Stonehenge, if we suppose that there is any connection between Stonehenge and the barrows ? Did the barrows come to Stonehenge, or Stonehenge to the barrows ? Were the dead buried around an already existing temple, because the spot was hallowed by its presence ; or was a temple erected at a place already rendered sacred by the burial of the illus- trious dead ? It has been already mentioned^ that the vallum which encircles Stonehenge cuts through a barrow, in which inter- ment by cremation had taken place — a tumulus of the round- barrow class. This is held to prove that Stonehenge was ^ Thurnam, " Anc. Brit. Barrows," in "Some Ace. Blackmore Museum," part i, pp. 40 — 45. ^ It is in reference to this that I remarked in a rather loose way, which may possibly mislead, " The Belgse were in their Bronze Age" (Ante, p. 34, note). At the period of the Roman invasion the Belgae were in their Iron Age. 3 Ante, p. 84. Relative Antiquity of Stonehenge and the Barron's. 1 49 erected after barrows, which as we have seen, are of the "Early Bronze Age," nor is this all, for sufficient time had elapsed to admit of all respect being lost for the burial-place of those whose remains were deposited in these barrows. Possibly, however, Stonehenge was erected at two periods^ — perhaps widely separated in point of time — the vallum may only have been made when the sarsen-stone temple was erected around the far earlier temple of foreign stones ; and, consequently, the mutilation of these barrows would only help us to estimate the relative age of the sarsen-stone temple and the barrows. The sacred neighbourhood of the foreign-stone " Stonehenge," at a far earlier period, may have been resorted to for burial, and hence the barrows may have come to (the old) Stonehenge, notwithstanding the apparent evidence to the contrary, afforded by the partial destruction of tumuli by the vallum. There is something more, however, to be said in favor of the higher antiquity of the (foreign stone and sarsen stone) temple of Stonehenge, it is afforded by the presence of chip- pings of the Stonehenge Stones in round barrows. Mr. Long says, " the fact that chippings from the stones of both kinds have been found intermingled in two of the adjoining barrows should be borne in mind in discussing this question."^ In one round barrow (No. 16), Stukeley found "bits of red and blue marble chippings of the stones of the temple." Sir R. C. Hoare also found in this barrow " some fragments of sarsen-stones similar to those which form the great trilithons at Stonehenge," and, " on removing the earth from over the cist, we found a large piece of one of the blue stones (foreign) of Stonehenge,^ which Sowerby the naturalist calls a horn stone." From this discovery, Sir Richard draws the inference that, Stonehenge existed before the barrows were constructed — and that " when the tumuli adjoining Stonehenge were raised, the plain was covered with the chippings of the stones that had been employed in the formation of the stone circle."'* The finding of chippings of both kinds of stone, together, has ^ Ante, p. 94. 2 " Wilts Mag.," vol. xvi., p. 64. ^ Chippings of foreign stone have been found in three of the barrows near Stonehenge, viz., No. 16, No. 30?, and in No. 42. They have also been found in the waggon-tracks around the temple, but this does not prove much. See Mr. Long, " Wilts Mag,," vol. xvi., p. 66. ^ "Anc. Wilts.," vol. i, p. 127. 150 The Possession of a ^^ SouP^ by Ijianimate Objects. little bearing upon the contemporaneous erection of circles and horseshoes of both kinds of stone ; it only shows that both kinds of stone had been dressed at the same place — not neces- sarily at the same twte. " There may have been an interval of time, greater or less," says Mr. Long, " and the chips may yet have become mixed, and have been carried away, together, with the earth or chalk of which some of the barrows were com- posed. The chips found in these three barrows would go far to prove the superior antiquity of Stonehenge to that of these particular tumuli."^ And if we agree with Mr. Long, Stonehenge must have been erected either at a very early period in the Bronze Age by the round-headed people of the circular-barrows, or else by the long-headed, stone-using, folk of the long barrows. It may be well to remember that the long-barrow people were not unused to move masses of stone, for they formed chambers of stone slabs in their burial-mounds, wherever suitable material for the purpose was near at hand. Within these long barrows also were placed monoliths and trilithons, evidently with a sym- bolical meaning, and, it may be, intended to protect those buried there against evil spirits or evil influences. Before we take leave of the barrows around Stonehenge — of this enormous cemetery not so much of the common people as of their chiefs and leaders, there are one or two considera- tions that should not be allowed to pass unnoticed. The greater number of these tumuli are " round barrows," in which the interment has been by cremation, the dead were burned, together with weapons, ornaments, and such personal be- longings as were judged to be likely to be of service to them in another world. This very act of burning to us appears to destroy their utility to the deceased, but it was the sotil of these things, not their material presence that was supposed to be of use to the soti/ of the dead man or woman. In the story of Periander, we are told that his dead wife, Melissa, refused to give him an oracular response, for she was shivering and naked, because the garments buried with her had not been burnt, and so were of no use; wherefore, Periander plundered the Corinthian women of their best clothes, burned them in a great trench, with prayer, and then obtained his answer. So that an act of destruction of the material seemed, in this instance, to be necessary for the liberation of the soul ^ ''Wilts. Mag., vol. xvi., p. 67. The Possession of a'-'' Sour by Inajiimate Objects. 151 or essence of the clothing, the only thing of service to the ghost. When this destruction was not effected by fire, it is possible that the weapon or object was at times broken, pur- posely, so that its soul might accompany the soul of its late master or mistress to the spirit-land. This may help to explain the presence with some interments of weapons, apparently, broken before they were deposited in the burial-mound or cromlech. Among the Algonquins, it was generally believed that the souls, not only of men and animals, but of hatchets and other inanimate objects, had to cross the water to the Great Village, far away where the sun sets. The Fijian believed that : — " If an animal or plant die, its soul imme- diately goes to Bolotoo -, if a stone or any other substance is broken, immortality is equally its reward If an axe or a chisel is worn out or broken up, away flies its soul for the service of the gods." A later writer on Fijian belief says : — "Every object is supposed to have its 'kelah.' Axes and knives, as well as trees and plants, are supposed to have their separate ' kelahs.' The Karen with his axe and cleaver, may build his house, cut his rice, and conduct his affairs after death as before," that is by means of the "kelah" of his axe and other implements. Nor is this idea so absurd as would at first appear. The psychological condition of mind which can believe in the appearance of ghosts, does not conceive of them as naked, but as clothed and armed, as when the deceased were in the flesh. When the ghost of Hamlet's father appears, we are told that " Such was the very armour he had on When he the ambitious Norway combated." " Such" — but not " the very armour" — it was the phantasmal appearance of the armour, the ethereal soul of it. It has been reserved for modern spiritualists to arm their " familiars" with material objects, so that they may administer real buffets in the dark. This belief in the possession of a soul by all things, animate and inanimate, is almost an essential in a people who can develop or appreciate myths ; for, in them, personality and life are ascribed not to men and beasts only — but to things — rivers, stones, trees, weapons, and all thinajs, are treated as living and intelligent beings, are talked to, propitiated, or punished, according to circumstances. The burning, or breaking of a weapon or other object, does 152 The Great Bustard. not seem, in every instance, to have been deemed necessary in order to release the spirit of the object so injured, or, as we may say, killed. Savages, in nearly every part of the world, bury uninjured weapons with their dead, in the belief that the soul of the weapon, not the weapon itself, will accompany its former master to the great spirit-land. To give an instance, a dead Fijian chief is buried with his club close to his right-hand, so that he may defend himself against the opponents he will meet as his soul travels on the road to Mbulu. But, we read of a Fijian taking such a club from a companion's grave, and saying, by way of explanation, to a missionary who stood by, " The ghost of the club has gone with him." We may believe that the objects found in our Wiltshire tumuli were placed there, in the full belief that their ghosts would accompany the ghosts of those with whose remains they are found associated, to the far-away spirit-land where the sun sets. If this was the case with such things as weapons and orna- ments, it was equally so with the wives or slaves, supposed by Dr. Thurnam, to have been sacrificed at, or about, the time of the burial. "When a man of rank dies and his soul departs to its own place, wherever and whatever that place may be, it is a rational inference of early philosophy that the souls of atten- dants, slaves, and wives, put to death at his funeral, will make the same journey, and continue their service in the next world." It is unnecessary to multiply instances of this belief, which is almost universal. Among the savage Kayans of Borneo : — " Slaves are killed in order that they may follow the deceased and attend upon him. Before they are killed, the relations who surround them enjoin them to take great care of their master when they join him, to watch and shampoo him when he is indisposed, to be always near him, and to obey all his behests. The female relatives of the deceased then take a spear and slightly wound the victims, after which the males spear them to death." THE GREAT BUSTARD. Salisbury Plain, over which we are passing, was at one time a favourite resort of the Great Bustard, the largest and most noble of our British land birds. Like the Red Indian, it has been " improved away" from its former haunts. Cultivation increased, the Downs were broken The Great Bustard. 153 up, from its large size the bird was a prominent object to sportsmen — these, and other causes, have, unfortunately, led to its extinction ; and now, it is only at long intervals that a few stragglers from other countries make their appearance in the neighbourhood of Stonehenge. In former days they were to be seen in, what may be called, small flocks. The Rev. W. Chafin, writing rather more than fifty years since, mentions that once, between Andover and Salisbury, he put up twenty-five bustards at one time. In 1785 or 1786, Mr. Swayne saw several bustards standing on a hill on the Down, about half a mile from Tilshead Lodge,^ very near our route. In 1777, Gilbert White was told by a carter at a farm on the Downs, near Andover, that twelve years previously he had seen a flock of eighteen bustards. Pennant says : — " in autumn these (bustards) are (in Wiltshire) generally found in large turnip fields near the Downs, and in flocks of fifty or more."^ " Though SaHsbury Plain in Druid times," writes the Rev. William Gilpin,^ " was probably a very busy scene, we now (1798) find it wholly uninhabited. Here and there we meet a flock of sheep scattered over the side of some rising ground ; and a shepherd with his dog attending them ; or perhaps we may descry some solitary waggon winding round a distant hill. But the only resident inhabitant of this vast waste is the bustard. This bird, which is the largest fowl we have in England, is fond of all extensive plains, and is found on several; but these are supposed to be his principal haunt. Here he breeds, and here he spends his summer-day, feeding with his mate on juicy berries, and the large dew-worms of the heath. As winter approaches, he forms into society. Fifty or sixty of them have been seen together. As the bustard leads his life in these unfrequented wilds, and studiously avoids the haunts of men, the appearance of anything in motion, though at a considerable distance, alarms him As he is so noble a prize, his flesh so delicate, and the quantity of it so large, he is of course frequently the object of the fowler's stratagems. But his caution is generally a protection against them all. The scene he frequents, affords neither tree to ^ "Wilts. Mag.," vol. ii., p. 212. 2 Smith, '• Wilts. Mag.," vol. iii., p. 132. 3 "Observations on the Western Parts of England," &c., 1798, quoted by Mr. Long, "Wilts. Mag.," vol. xvi., pp. 139, 140. 154 Ptignacity of the Great Bustard. shelter, nor hedge to skreen, an enemy ; and he is so tall, that when he raises his neck to take a perspective view, his eye circumscribes a very wide horizon. All open attempts, there- fore, against him are fruitless. The fowler's most promising stratagem is to conceal himself in a waggon. The west-country waggons, periodically travelling these regions, are objects to which the bustard is most accustomed ; and though he retires at their approach, he retires with less evident signs of alarm than from anything else. It is possible, therefore, if the fowler lies close in such concealment, and with a long-barrelled gun can direct a good aim, he may make a lucky shot. Sometimes also he sHps from the tail of a waggon a couple of swift grey- hounds. They soon come up with the bustard, though he runs well \ and if they can contrive to reach him, just as he is on the point to take wing (an operation which he performs with less expedition than is requisite in such critical circum- stances) they may perhaps seize him." Nor was such a prize unworthy of all this trouble, for a full- grown male, in good condition, weighs from twenty-five to twenty-eight pounds, and measures forty-five inches in length ; the female is not so large, seldom exceeding thirty-six inches in length. Shy as is the bustard, it has proved itself to be, at times, exceedingly bold and pugnacious, and has been known to attack those who came near it with the most determined ferocity. A case in point occurred in June, 1801. A man, whilst riding near Tilshead (about seven miles to the north- west of Stonehenge), saw a large bird flying, about sixty yards over his head— this proved to be a bustard. "The bird alighted on the ground immediately before the horse, which it indicated a disposition to attack, and, in fact, very soon began the onset." The man dismounted, and endeavoured to secure the bird, "after struggling with it nearly an hour he succeeded." He brought it to Mr. Bartley, of Tilshead, to whose house he was going, and sold it to him for a small sum. At first the bird was shy, and refused to take food ; but, ultimately it became more tame and would even take its food from the hands of those it knew. It remained in Mr. Bartley's posses- sion from June, 1801, until the following August. It was judged to weigh upwards of twenty pounds ; its height was about three and a half feet, and it measured between the extremity of its wings (when extended) about five feet. In The Bustard kept as a pet at Salisbury. 155 August, 1 801, Mr. Bartley sold this bird to Lord Temple, for thirty guineas. About a fortnight subsequently to the taking of this bird, another bustard, believed to have been the mate of Mr. Bartley's bird, attacked Mr. Grant, a farmer of Tilshead (as he was returning from Warminster Market), near Tilshead Lodge. Mr. Grant was riding a high-spirited horse, the animal took fright and became unmanageable, so this bird was not captured. A nest, containing two eggs (rotten), supposed to have belonged to these two birds, was found in a wheat field, on Market Lavington Down. The bustard certainly bred on Salisbury Plain about nine years before this; for, in 1792, a traveller was crossing the Plain between Devizes and Salisbury, and came upon a bustard. The bird started up, and tumbled about as if wounded and unable to rise ; the man rode after it a little way, but the bird gained on him, and he returned to the road. Whilst he was doing so, he saw a young bustard in a wheel-track, this he caught and took with him to Salisbury, where he gave it to Mrs. Steedman of the Red Lion Inn. This bird became very tame. Like a ghost, the bustard, every now and then, returns to haunt its former abode. So recently as in August, 1849, ^^• Waterhouse, of the British Museum, a well-known naturalist, was returning from Stonehenge, when, to his astonishment, a Great Bustard rose from the Plain, and flew off with a heavy, but tolerably rapid flight. In former days, it was the custom of the Mayors of Salisbury to provide a bustard as a prominent dish at the annual civic banquet. There are two stuffed specimens of the Great Bustard to be seen in the SaUsbury and South Wilts Museum ; these birds (male and female) were shot, within the last six years, on Salisbury Plain, within four miles of the route we are taking. The female bird was shot, at Maddington, Jan. 23, 187 1, and was presented to the Museum by E. Lywood, Esq. The male bird was shot, three days after (Jan. 26), on land occupied by Erlysman C. Pinckney, Esq., at Berwick St. James, about three miles from Maddington ; and is deposited by Mr. Pinckney, in the Museum — where may it long remain, for it is a magnificent specimen. The hen bustard was killed by Stephen Smith, a " bird-keeper" to Mr. Lywood ; Smith had no shot, he saw three bustards together, picked up 156 A Bustard cooked at Salisbury, in iSyi. the first round stone that came to hand, loaded his gun with it — fired — and hit the hen in the wing, a good shot under all the circumstances, for she was flying at a distance of about 300 yards. The two other bustards escaped for the time, but the male bird was killed three days later, as I have mentioned. As the bird shot at Berwick fell, the survivor wheeled round, as if seeking to learn what had happened to its companion. The sportsman, however, was too eager — he went forward to pick up the bustard he had killed, and the other bird, being scared, flew away. Mr. Pinckney had his bustard cooked, and I am told that it resembled hare in flavour. The hen bird was cooked at my house, it was young, and very tender and good — many persons partook of it, some thought that it tasted like golden plover.^ The crop of this bird was nearly empty, but in it were found two small pieces of worked flint; if any inference is to be deduced from the presence of these chips, it would be, that the bird had lived in some district where flint is not geologically present, and where, consequently, every fragment of flint, as in parts of Brittany, has been brought by human hands, and shows signs of human workmanship. We have reached Camp Hill, but we must not expect to see earth-works, such as those we have elsewhere visited to- day. This place seems to have obtained its name from the circumstance that a camp was pitched here, in 1775, just before the American war, for the purpose of exercising the Light Infantry, then a new branch of the service. At Camp Hill, we make a sharp bend to the right, in the direction of Wilton. Had we proceeded along the direct road to Salisbury for another half mile, we should have seen a long, narrow valley on the right-hand side of the road, and for some distance, running nearly parallel to it. This is THE TOURNAMENT GROUND. One of the five steads, selected by Richard I., in which tournaments might be held in England. The King seems to have desired that English Knights should have places in their own country where they could meet to practise feats of arms, ^ For accounts of the Bustard, see Smith in "Wilts. Mag.," vol. iii,, pp. 129—145; Swayne, "Wilts. Mag.," vol. ii., p. 212; Long, "Wilts. Mag.," vol. xvi., p. 140. The Toiwnanwit Ground. — The Wyly. 157 instead of having to resort to the continent for the purpose, as heretofore. Accordingly, by a letter patent, dated Ville L'Evesche (Nor- mandy), August 22, T194, he authorised his justiciary, Hubert, Archbishop of Canterbury, to make arrangements for holding tournaments in several places, namely, betiveen Sarum a?id Wilton, between Warwick and Kenilworth, between Stamford and Warringford, between Brackely and Nixeberry, and between Blye and Tykehill The prelate was directed to provide two clerks and two knights at each place, to receive the oaths of those who were desirous of displaying their skill ; and certain fees were established for the exercise of this privilege, namely, for an earl twenty marks, for a baron ten, for a knight (with lands) four, and for a knight (without lands — an adventurer) two marks. All were to swear, that they would not tourney before they had paid the fees to the King ; and if they found any tourneying without having so paid, they pledged them- selves to take him into custody, and to deliver him to the King's bailiff, that he might abide the decision of the Royal Justiciary. THE WYLY. As we descend into the valley of the Wyly, through an avenue of trees, we catch peeps of Wilton and Wilton Church. Leland tells us that — " Wyle renneth thorough the toun of Wilton, divided into armes. And here cummith into Wyle, a river called Naddei'^ alias Fovington water, bycause it risith about Fovington (Fovant)." At the end of the avenue, may be seen the arch leading to Wilton House, the seat of the Earl of Pembroke and Mont- gomery. We turn to the left on reaching Fugglestone St. Peter and pass the Church. ^ It has been doubted whether the derivation of Nadder, given at p, 5, is correct. Mr. Svi^ayne suggests that the names of such rivers as the Adaj' (in Mayo), the Adonr (in France), and the Adiir (in Sussex) have their origin from the Welsh dzur^ "water;" and that the name N'adder (or No(/^r) may also have been derived from the same word. Pritchard gives a list of forty-four ancient names containing this root in Italy, Germany, Gaul, and Britain, The word itself occurs in the Dour in Fife, Aberdeen, and Kent : the Dore in Hereford, and the Diiir in Lanark. In a com- pounded form it is present in the Glas^«r, or grey water, in Elgin ; the 'R.other, or red water (Rhuddwr), in Sussex ; the Cal^ S « -4J fl 1—1 ^ ITS .u Q) ••v ^ *" QJ OQ CJ -+^ I— t -^ 2 -> o OS o OQ * o a CQ 02 CO o « Fits >, PI 12; (3 -. O .9 ^ •^« 1-2 at> a •^ to M a m <— > •*> o o 2 «> :a a-g b- S 3 m rH 2 ^^-^ S el o a 2 a M 0) (D ;-■ e3 p-a :: -a '0ifcfco ditto oblong Ditto from North-East Dir.to ditto Ditto from the Palace Ditto from the South-East Ditto from the Prtlace Grounds Ditto from the Meadows Ditto, the Spire, from the Cloisters Ditto, West Doorway Ditto, Chapter House, from the Bisliop's Garden Ditto, the Cloister Court Ditto, the Cloister Archway Ditto, Nave, looking East Ditto ditto West Ditto, Choir, looking East, upright Ditto ditto oblong Ditto ditto West Ditto, Chantry Chapels and Eeredos Ditto ditto Ditto, Chantry iti Choir Ditto, the Reredos Ditto, the Lailv Chapel Ditto, the Pulpit Ditto, the Transepts Ditto, the South Aisle Ditto, the Screen Dicto, Chapter House, Doorway Ditto, Interior of Chapter House Ditto, Roof of Chapter House Diito, AitoRelievo—" Jacob Wrestling with the Angel" I>itto, "Destruction of Sodom" Ditto, "Joseph's Di-eam" Ditto, " Joseph Sold into Egypt" I^itto, "Joseph and his i-!rethren" I>itto, " The Construction of the Ark" Ditto, " The Creation" Ditto, the Cloisters Tlie Poultry Cross St. Edmund's College "W'ilton Cliurch. Ditto, the Doorway- Ditto, Interior, looking North Ditto ditto South Wardour Castle Ditto, Courtyard Ditto, Grand Staircase Stonehenge Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto £?■•• ^ FRITH'S SERIES. Unmounted. No. Salisbury Cathedral- 1223 Distant View from the Kivcr 1713 North-West View 1714 Ditto, upright 12539 Ditto 12540 Ditto, upright 17J6 Ditto 1715 West Front - 12542 Ditto 12541 Ditto, full front - 879 West Door - 70G2 North Side - 7063 Ditto, from North-East 7065 Ditto, from North-West 12547 South Side, from Lake 12543 a he Spire, from South 12546 Ditto, from South-East 1221 Ditto, from South 7064 Ditto and Cloister Court 12544 Ditto ditto 12545 The Cloister Court 1222 Ditto 7066 East End 1220 Chapter House, &c., from South-East 1224 Ditto 12548 Ditto 12549 Nave, looking East 12550 Ditto 12551 Nave, looking- West 12552 Choir, lookicg East 12553 TheEeredos 12554 Choir, looking West 12555 The Pulpit - 1717 View across Nave 1228 South Aisle, Nave 12557 South Choir Aisle 12556 North Choir Aisle 12558 The Transepts 1229 View across Transept 12559 Lady Chapel 1230 Ditto 1231 Ditto 12560 Chapter House 1232 Ditto, View in 1233 Ditto 1234 Ditto 1235 Ditto 1225 Chapter House Door 12561 Bishop Hamilton's Tomb 12562 Bishop Bridport's Tomb 1236 The Cloisters 12563 Ditto 12564 Ditto, Window 1718 Ditto, Exterior n by ' 2/- # # # # 9 bv? 1/6 * * # * * # # * » * # * * # * * The * * indicate the Sizes in which the Views can be supplied. 7 by 5 lOd. # * * * # # * * * * # * # * ^^ BOOKS, PRINTS, &C. 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