\^- •% "C* ^" / v^^^- ■^oo^ y^ .^^' ■^^. * oV • Sv- ■ \ .^ .^ iN '^. ^"' " %,^' ^ ^> .^' .■ ^ ..^^ .- -vX .^' ..-^ r. ■^^ .0^ V- V, ^^^^. ,-b -A -? V •^ •"oo^ ^fr. o^^ ' ,0" ,i' ^ 0> 'ri- ' W ^^ -i--- = \ <<■ x'?-' ^'^■^^ ^■ \n^^: •v^ :.'^ '' " " r O \' ^ •0- o <^^" ■XV^^ "^^. v^ 0^^ c'^':'^^/^. ,-0- ..-^^ c?'^" ^ ^ (, c V ■* .'^ -P ..'^ X oo^ /; ^. .-^^ ^^• V ,x^ '^- V^ 'y^i-. "' -^ ^^ V c^\y vN^^' V ./>, OO \ <:a v^ THE RIA ER MISSISSIPPI, ST. PAUL TO NEW ORLEANS, WITH VIEWS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF CITIES CONNECTED WITH ITS TRADE AND COMMERCE, AKD OTHER PLACES AND OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPL WITH 30 RIVER CHARTS AKD 40 ENGRAVINGS. / NEW YORK ALEX. HAETHILL, 20 NORTH WILLIAM STREET; ROSS »fc TOUSEY; H. DEXTER & CO.; HENDRICKSON, BLAKE & LONG. ST. LOUIS :— L. BlTSHNELL. NEW ORLEANS :— J. C. MORGAN. ClNCtNNWTt:— ANDERSON, GATB3 & WRiaflT. St. PAUL !— COOMBS BR0THKR8. And Sold by all Booksellers and Newsmen. - SS3 By «-aMtf*r froQi Pat. •«««JUb, ▲prll 1914. 1^ CONTENTS PAGE Albany, 111 19 Alexandria, Mo 25 Alton, 111 26 Andalusia, 111 20 Arkansas River 64 Ashton Ark 66 Ashport, Tenn 52 Aston, 111 25 Bainbridge, Mo 44 Baldwinsville, Md 46 Baltimore, Md 107, 112 Barnev's, Ark 60 Battle"Field, Wis 15 Bartield's Point 52 Baton Rouije, La 84 Bayou La Fourche 84 Bayou Goule 84 Bayou Sara 82 Bayou Pierre, Miss 70 Beckwith's Landing 48 Belleview, Iowa 19 Ben Sherrod Steamer, Loss of 76 Bickwith, Mo 46 Birmingham, Mo 44 Big Black River 70 Black Hawk Steamer, Loss of 78 Black River 15 Blue's Point, Ark 58 Bolivia, Miss 64 Boonville, 111 25 Booth's Point 52 Breeseville, 111 44 Brandvwine Steamer, Loss of.". 54 Brookl3'n, Minn 15 Brownsville, Minn 15 Bruinsburg, Miss 70 Bucna Vista, Iowa IS Buttiilo, Iowa 20 Butcher's Cut-off 66 Burlington, Iowa 22 Cahokia, 111 41 Cairo, 111 44 Camanche, Iowa 19 Cannon River 15 Carondok"t,'Mo 41 Carolina Landing, Miss. . . 66 Carrollton, La 86 Cassville, Wis Is Chalk Banks 46 Charleston, S. C 113, 114 Chester, III 41 Chickasaw Bluffs 51 Ciii])i)ewa River 15 Cincinnati, Wis IS Cincinnati, Mo 26 PAGE Cincinnati, Ohio 95, 104 Clarksville, Mo 26 Clifton, Mo 41 Clayton, Iowa 18 Columbia, Ark 64 Columbus, Ky 46 Commerce, Mo 44 Commerce, Miss 58 Concordia, Miss 60 Cordova, 111...-. 19 Cornice Rocks 44 Crossman Col., Steamer, Loss of 48 Davenport, Iowa 20 Davton, 111 25 Dear Plain, Mo 26 Delta, Miss 60 Devil's Bake Oven 41 Devel's Tea Table 44 Desmoine's City 25 Desmoine's River 25 Donaldson ville. La 86 Down the Mississippi, Poetry 37 Dubuque City, Iowa IS Dubuque Steamer, Loss of 20 Dunleath, 111 19 Ellis's Cliff, Miss 70 Earthquake, at New Madrid 50 Fabian's River 25 Fairport, Iowa 20 Fevre or Fever River I'j Floods on the Mississippi. 56 Fort Adams, Miss 76 Fort Chartres, 111 41 Port Madison, Iowa 22 Fort Pickering, Tenn 58 Fort Snelling^ Minn 13 Forked Deer River 52 Frankford, Iowa 18 Friar's Point, Miss 60 Fulton City, 111 ly Fulton, Tenn 52 Galena, 111 19 Gilead, III 26 Giraiideau, Cape, Mo 44 Grand Tower 41 Grand Lake Landing, Ark. 64 Grafton, III .". 26 Grayse waters have themselves washed a passage through the opposing soil. As the current of the Mississippi, especially that part of it which lies below its confluence with the Ohio, is very rapid, these unusual windings serve in a great measure to keep its speed in check, and thus to facilitate navigation. RIVER MISSISSIPPI. RISING AND FALLING OF THE RIVER. Inundations are frequent, and sometimes very disastrous, on the Mississippi. But as the river runs nortli and south, the opening of its waters runs in an inverse direction, and the spring releases, in succession, and by instalments as it were, first, the lower val- ley, next the middle section, and lastly, the more remote sources of the river and its tributaries. Thus, the released waters from the last-named region do not reach the mouth of the river until upwards of a month after the inundation there has abated. It is impossible to determine, with any de- gree of certaint}', when there will be a rise in the waters, or to what extent they will swell. In some seasons they do not rise above their channels; while in others, the entire valley of the lower Mississippi is sub- merged. In former years New Orleans suffered im- mense damage by in r.dation. She is now, however, well protected by strong embank- ments, called l&vees, being about 10 feet in height, and extending manj' miles above and below the city; but even these stubborn safeguards are sometimes swept away by the relentless flood. In heavy freshets, it is often the case, that immense masses of earth, with num- bers of large trees, are cut away from the bends of the river, and carried down the stream. The trees becoming water-soaked, often sink at one end, and. becoming embed- ded in the mud, leaves the other end floating near the surface, and forms those dangerous foes of upward-bound steamers, known as snags and sawyers. Before steam was introduced, sailing ves- sels were frequently nine or ten weeks in ascending the Mississippi as far up as the mouth of the Illinois. Now the swift steamer goes over the course in less than that number of days. DISCOVERY OF TIIE RIVER— and CONTRAST. In 1673 Joliet and Marquet discovered the Upper Mississippi, whose clear waters, then, for the first time, sparkled before the eyes of the white men. Seven years later. Father Hennipen ascended the river as far as the Falls of St Anthony. Eleven years after, in 1791, La Salle discovered the mouth of the great stream. De Soto, a Spanish adventurer, had dis- covered the waters of the Southern Missis- sippi, as early as 1539, but he only crossed the stream at a point lying between Missis- sippi and Arkansas, and did not attempt to traverse its course. What a contrast has a period of less than two centuries wrought in the history of the " Great River." Then, naught was to be seen upon its surface but the frail canoes of the red men, with an occasional solitary bark of the adventurous voyager. Now, it daily bears on its broad bosom a thousand richly freighted steamers, loaded down with the choicest products from every nation on the globe. Then, nothing was to be seen upon its rugged banks but the wild drapery which nature planted with her own hands, with here and there, perhaps, the rude and simple wigwam of the Indian. Now, hun- dreds of large cities, flourishing towns and growing villages dot either side of the river, along its entire navigable length. Such is the march of progress. He, who, a hundred years hence, shall write the history of this noble river, will leap a gap as wide as that which divides us from the days of Father Hennipen and La Salle. VOYAGE DOWN THE RIVER. The extraordinary length of the Missis- sippi, the large number of cities, towns and villages which adorn its banks, and the mul- tiplied objects of curious interest -which lie along its course, present to the tourist such a succession of panoramic novelties as perhaf)s no other locality in the world can equal. And, thanks to the improving spirit of the MISSISSIPPI STEAMERS. age, the traveller, in feasting upon the ex- quisite natural and artificial beauties which lie so profusely along a course of 2,000 miles ill extent, ma\' at the same time enjoy all the comforts, and partake of all the luxuries which are to be found in the first-class hotels of our finest cities. To be sure, the sleeping accommodations on board our river steamers are not so extensive in point of space, as one might desire ; but this want is more than compensated for, especially in the hot sum- mer time, by the plentiful supply of cool, fresh air, which invigorates, inspires and renovates the entire system, and, to the in- valid especially, is of more worth than the nostrums of the combined medical faculty. THE PASSENGER STEAMERS. "We would advise voyagers on the Missis- sippi, whether intent on business or pleasure, to take passage on United Slates mail boats, in preference to any other class of steamers. It is true, the fares on these boats are a trifle higher than on others, but, as an offset to this objection, they are generally faster in speed, more punctual in point of time of de- parture and arrival, more spacious, and, as a general rule, spread a better table. In this latter respect, it is but justice to say, that the gastronomic wants of passengers are very seldom curtailed on the Mississippi ; no mat- ter how low the fare, or how small or slow the boat. The frequent stoppages along the river enable the stewards to replenish their lai'ders at every meal, if they choose, with every variety of fish, flesh, fowl and fruit. Still, there are some differences in regard, both to quantity and quality, and our own experience decides in favour of the "mail" boats. MISSISSIPPI AND HUDSON STEAMERS. Usuallj' the boats which ply upon the western rivers are neither as large, nor as swift in speed, as those which plough the eastern waters. They are also very unlike in their external shape, as well as in their internal economy. The differences in form will be seen by comparing the cuts which follow, one being a representation of a Mis- sissippi, and the other of a Hudson River steamer, the latter as she is passing the Pali- sades on her way from Albany to New York. "We also present a beautiful engraving of the principal saloon in the steamer " Isaac Newton," one of the finest boats on the Hud- son. Northern and eastern steamers are constructed with a view to swiftness, and to the accommodations of large numbers of pas- sengers, while the western boats are made to carry heavy freights in addition to their passenger list, and for safety's sake could not, if tlie}- would, and would not, if they could, pursue their contintially changing course along their winding streams with a speed greater than eight or ten miles an hour. Notwithstanding the superior elegance and swiftness of northern and eastern steamers, we doubt if their passengers, on the whole, really enjoy themselves with half the zest and appetite that the voyagers on the less pretentious craft of the western waters do. The trips of the former are seldom of more than eight or ten hours' duration (if we ex- cept the lake boats) ; and passengers go on board, eat, drink, and sleep, if they can, and come on shore, without making acquaint- ances, or indulging in any thing like social intercourse — we speak of the rule, to which, of course, there are exceptions. On the western boats, however, the trips being from five to fifteen days in duration, the passen- gers soon form acquaintance with each other, and in a few hours after leaving port, everybody knows everybody, and a sjstera of social good fellowship is inaugurated, which is maintained during the whole trip, and, in some instances, is continued in after years. STEAMBOAT DISASTERS. We know that it is not a very agreeable recreation, for persons, especially if they be at all nervous or timid, to read of explosions, conflagrations, and other serious disasters. HUDSON niVEU STEAMER MISSISSIPPI RIVER STEAMER, V\.v>,vs^-t<.:=.^ STATE-ROOM SALOON OF THE "ISAAC NEWTON." 9 ST. PAUL AND ST. ANTHOXY S FALLS. vliich have occurred over the same route, and perhaps, under aj)parentl3' similar cir- cumstances tlirough which they are journey- inij; ; but, at the same time, we think that tlie actual dangers of any and every public thoroughfiire should be publicly known, as it is to this very knowledge we are indebted for the many improvements which, of late years, have been made for the safe convey- ance of passengers and property, both by railway and by steamer. It is an undeniable fact, that man\- of the disasters of former years on the western waters were caused by carelessness in the construction of steam- boilers, and Vty the foolish, and always dan- gerous, habit of racing. Although the num- ber of steamers which now ply upon the southern and western waters is vastly greater tliau twenty years ago, we doubt if half the number of explosions occur in a given lime at this day, that were chronicled at the pe- riod referred to. And why ? Simplj' be cause the public mind, outraged and aroused to action by repeated calamities, caused by palpable neglect or carelessness, compelled reform. We shall, therefore, offer no excuse for introducing into our pages, as we pro- gress on our voyage, brief accounts of some of the most serious steamboat disasters that have occurred on the Mississippi River during the last few years. If the narratives of pain and suffering harrow the feelings of our readers, we hope they will also create cor- responding feelings of resolute determina- tion to aid in completing the reform of those abuses which are the immediate causes of the evils spoken o£ OBJECT OF THIS BOOK. Tlie object of this book is to point out to the voyager such places of interest along his route as are worthy of note, from either historical associations or natural renown, and by this means to aid in photographing upon his memory a long succession of beau- tiful images which will, in after years, rise up before him in all their pristine force, and afford him many hours of pleasant reflection. As there are many places on the river, about which no particular interest attaches, we shall merely call such by name, and, per- haps, give their popnlation, distance, etc., as it is our object to speak only when we have something to say, and not to swell our book with a cumbrous assortment of words and titles, meaning but little in general, and nothing in particular. As we shall follow Nature, and make our trip down the river, from St. Paul's, Minnesota, the npward-houwdi voyager will be obliged to commence at the end of our book, in order to thread the course of our description. THE STAY AT ST. PAUL. Assuming, then, that the reader (with our- selves) has taken passage on a steamer at St. Paul's for a downward trip to New Or- leans, we will suppose we have just time enough to ride up to St. Anthony's Falls and back before the boat actually starts, as one who is at St. Paul's must by no means ne- glect a visit to one of the finest sights on th« Upper Mississippi, as the Falls are univer sally allowed to be. ST. ANTHOinr'S FALLS. These Falls, which are the first that occur in ascending the river, have a perpendicular descent of 18 feet, and are about 30 rods in widtli. By themselves, the Falls might not atiord a sigiit of very especial interest, but when taken in connection with surrounding scenes, they niateriallj- aid in forming a pic- ture of great beauty. On one side lies the town of St. Anthony, containing 3,000 or 4,000 inhabitants; on the other is the pretty and picturesque Minneapolis, of about equal population — the two places being connected bj' a suspension bridge, a river view of which we present — while stretching away for miles, both up and down the river, are seen all the varieties of landscape for which 10 SUSPENSION BlilDGE AND MISSISSIPPI, AT MINNEAPOLIS. this latitude is famous. St. Anthony is about 8 miles by land above St. Paul's, and, being built on a high plain, commands a fine view of the Falls, as well as of the surrounding country. MINNEHAHA FALLS. These are made classical by Longfellow, in his admirable poem of Hiawatha, and should not be forgotten by tourists. They are near Minneapolis, and not far from the river. A clear sparkling stream of " laugh- ing waters" conies rusliing along the prai- over the precipice, and is lost in a deep dell, the sides of which are covered with shrub- bery of luxurious growth. The rock over which the stream leaps has been worn into an arch, and one can pass to and fro under- neath, between the falls and the rock, with rie, until it suddenly takes a leap of 60 feet j little or no inconvenience. The recess be- ll THE FALLS OF MINNEHAHA. hind the falls extends back 50 feet, and, from that point, affords an extraordinary beautiful view of tlie tumbling waters, as the sun shines upon them. We give a correct cut of these beautiful Falls, and also annex a few descriptive verses from Longfellow's popular ])oem : " Only once his pace he slackened, Only once he paused or halted — P.aused to purchase heads of arrows Of the ancient arrow-maker, In the land of the Dacotahs, Where the Falls of Minnehaha Flash and gleam among the oak trees, Laugh and leap into the valley. 12 " There the ancient arrow-maker Makes his arrow-heads of sandstone, Arrow-heads of chalcedony. Arrow-heads of Hint and jasper. Smoothed and sharpened at the edges. Hard and polished, keen and costly. " With him dwelt his dark-eyed daughter Wayward as the Minnehaha, With her moods of shade and sunshine ; Eyes that smiled and frowned alternate, Feet as rapid as the river, And as musical as laughter ; And he named her from the river — From the waterfall he named her Minnehaha, Laughing Water. " Was it here for heads of arrows. FORT SXELLING, ST. PAUL, ETC. Arrow-heads of chalcedony, Arrow-heads of flint and jasper. That my Hiawatha halted In the land of the Dacotahs ? " Was it not to see the maiden. See the face of Laughing Water, Peeping from behind the curtain ; Hear the rustling of her garments From behind the waving curtain. As we see the Minnehaha Gleaming, glancing through the branches, As one hears the Laughing Water From behind its screen and branches ? FORT SNELLING.— This is an old United States military post, in which Government has erected extensive works for the defence of the north-western frontier from the In- dians. Its usfulness is now at an end for such purposes, as what few Indians are now in the State are inclined to peace and friendship. The fort is situated about two miles below the Falls. MENDOTA is a thriving town, lying op- posite Fort Snelling, and from its position must eventually command an extensive trade between the river and interior country. Its population is near 1,000. CITY OF ST. PAUL. Before embarking on our voyage down the river, it may be necessary to give a brief description of this youthful city, which is the capital of Minnesota, and at the head of steamboat navigation on the Mississippi — 2,000 miles above New Orleans, and 725 miles above St. Louis. It is on a plain 56 feet above the river, which at this point flows in an easterly direction. In 1842 there was but one trading house at this point. In 1847 the rude cabins of a few half-breeds marked the spot where now flourishes the great north-western emporium, with its tall spires and its beautiful array of elegant buildings. Now the city contains from 12,000 to 15,000 inhabitants. Situated at the head of navigation, and surrounded by a fertile region of country, St. Paul must continue to increase in size and importance until it be- comes one of the finest cities on the river. On the next page we give a view of St. Paul, taken from the opposite shore. STARTING FROM ST. PAUL. DOWN THE RIVER.— Ourselves and baggage being safely bestowed on board, the steamer's bell gives its farewell peal, and our gallant bark turns its prow southward, and merrily pushes into the grand stream that is to bear it on its long, and, we hope, pleasant journey of 2,000 miles. The first place of note on our way is RED ROCK, Min., seven miles distant from St. Paul. This place was settled by a body of Methodists under the superintendence of Rev. Mr. Brunson, in 1837, who established a school at an expense of $30,000 for the purpose of educating the Indians ; but after a few years the mission was abandoned. The place derives its name from a large granite boulder which was painted red by the Indians, and called by them Wakoti, or Spirit Rock. HASTINGS, a small, unimportant place, lies 10 miles further down. VERMILLION RIVER, three miles be- low the last-named town. Tliis river enters the Mississippi. It takes its rise in Minne- 13 sota, and runs in a north-easterly direction in a line parallel with St. Peter's River. POINT DOUGLAS, Min., five miles below, is a pleasant post village, situated on a point of land formed by the junction of the St. Croix with the Mississippi River. It has one hotel, a steam mill, several stores, and has an excellent landing for steamboats. ST. CROIX RIVER rises in Wisconsin, near the west end of Lake Superior, and, flowing in a southerly direction, reaches the Mississippi at this point. Its extreme length is about 200 miles, and it is navigable for steamboats about 60 miles. It is 100 yards wide at its mouth. About one mile above its entrance into the Mississippi, an expansion of its shores forms St. Croix Lake, extending 36 miles in length, and 3 or 4 miles in width. There are several beautiful falls towards the centre of this river, which runs through a pine country, and annuallj' brings down large quantities of lumber which are sliipped to ports below. PRESCOTT, just below Point Douglass, RED WING TO PRAIRIE DU CHIEN. and on the opposite shore, is a small post village in Wisconsin. Eighteen miles be- low is RED WING, on the Minnesota side, and situated on the upper extremity of Lake Pepin. LAKE PEPIN is formed bj' an expansion of the Mississippi, and is 25 miles long and 4 miles wide. The water is here very clear and transparent, and the current quiet and gentle. On the eastern side of the lake is the celebrated MAIDEN'S ROCK, which rises perpen- dicularly 500 feet from the water. Tradition states that an Indian maiden, Mattakeo, or the strong-hearted, leaped from the summit of this acclivity in order to save herself from the hated embraces of a repulsive chief who had taken her pi-isoner after having slain many of her people. An accurate view of " Maiden's Rock" will be found on the page following, and likewise a sketch of a scene on the Mississippi, between Lake Pepin and St. Paul's. On our passage along the lake we pass the mouth of Rush River on the east and Cannon River on the west. KANZAS, a small village in Wisconsin ; and continuing on, comes the mouth of CHIPPEWA RIVER, called by the In- dians OJibheicay. This river, which is over 200 miles long and 500 yards wide at its mouth, takes its rise in the northern part of Wisconsin, and, flowing in a south-westerly direction, enters the Mississippi at the foot of Lake Pepin, and 85 miles below St. PauL Its shores are lined with magnificent forests of pine, and its waters are navigable for about 70 or 80 miles. Leaving this river, we pass the small towns of WABASHA, Minn., 10 miles below, and FOUNTAIN CITY, Wis., 15 miles further on, and come to TREMPALEAU RIVER, a small stream which rises in Wisconsin, and pours into the Mississippi, 10 miles below Fountain Cit}'. Opposite its mouth is MINNESOTA CITY, capital of Winona County, Minn. This is a verj' pretty village, which was settled in 1652 by the "Western Farm and Village Association," and industry and economy have found their reward in the blooming fields which are observable from the banks of the river, deep into the interior. Passing the small town of Montoville, Wis., we come to MOUNTAIN ISLAND, which is a high, rocky island, whose estimated height is near 500 feet from the level of the river. It is a very conspicuous and noted land- mark, wild and rougli and savage in its ap pearance, and is considered one of the most remarkable objects on the Upper Missis- sippi. BLACK RIVER, which rises in the cen tral part of Wisconsin, flows into the Missis sippi, 8 miles below Montoville. It is 200 yards wide at its mouth, and maintains that width for about 50 miles, to the falls, which are at the head of navigation for small boats. Passing on 4 miles, we come to Ridncf Sun, Minn. ; and 2 miles to Brooklyn ; and other 2 miles brings us to LA CROSSE, Wis. This is a beautiful town, situated on La Crosse Prairie, in La Crofise Co., on La Crosse River — which certainly entitles it to a crown, if bearing an unusual number of cresses, be deserving of such high reward. It does a large lumber-trade, and contains about 1,200 inhabitants. A railroad now extends from La Crosse to the city of Milwaukee, three miles below. Hokah, or Root River, enters the Missis- sipp from Minnesota. It is about 130 miles long, and but little navigable. We next come to BROWNSVILLE, Minn., 5 miles below. RACOON RIVER, a small stream, flows into the Mississippi from Wisconsin, 5 miles below. BATTLE FIELD, Wis., 2 miles below. UPPER IOWA RIVER, Minn., a small stream, which, on entering the Mississippi, makes the dividing line between Iowa and Minnesota. LANSING, Iowa, 15 miles below. LYNXVILLE, Wis., 8 miles below. WEXFORD, Iowa, opposite Lynxville, and we come to PRAIRIE DU CHIEN, Wis. This is a place of some importance, and one of the oldest towns in Wisconsin. It is built on a level prairie, 6 or 8 miles long, and 2 miles wide, inclosed on the east side by a succes- sion of rocky bluffs. It occupies the site ot an old Indian village, and tliere are some ex cellent hunting grounds still to be found in 15 PRAIRIE DU CHIEX TO DUBUQUE. the vicinity. Numerous mouncls are scat- tered over the neighbouring country — the only remains of an ancient people, whose history is unknown to us, and whose verj- existence would have been doubted, had they not, like the builders of the Pyi-amids, left these unmistakable evidences of their having once lived, moved and had a being upon this soil. This town is the terminus of the Milwaukee and Mississippi Railroad, and is destined to become a place of large busi- ness. We give an engraving of an Indian mound, similar to those found near Prairie du Chien. INDIAN MOUND. Prairie du Chien is one of the connecting links in the chain of communication from Chicago and Milwaukee to St Paul, via rail from these cities, and thence per steamer to St. Paul, or down the river, as we are now proceeding. Passing Port Crawford, 1 mile below Prairie du Chien, we come to WISCOiN-SIX RIVER. This is a stream of some magnitude, being about 600 miles in length; 160 miles being navigable for steamers. At Portage City a canal connects the Wisconsin with Fox River, which enters Green Bay at Fort Howard, thus opening navigation from the Gulf of Mexico to the Northern lakes. At Portage City is still seen the remains of old Fort Winnebago, a place made famous in the annals of Indian warfare. CINCINXATI, Wis., 7 miles; A'ilro^, Iowa, opposite ; Clayton, Iowa, 2 miles, and MEXDOTA, Wis., 7 miles below, brings us to GUTTEXBURG, a thriving post village of Iowa. 40 miles above Dubuque. It has a | ore; but as the lead is found in g. good landing for steamboats, and has many abundance, it pays for the extra labour 18 valuable lead mines in its viciiiitj-, many of which are worked to advantage. CASSYILLE. Wis., 6 miles below, has also several lead mines in its vicinity, from which large quantities are annually shipped. TURKEY RIVER, 150 miles long, but unnavigable for steamers, enters the Missis- sippi, from Iowa, at this point. FRAXKFORD, Iowa, is a small village, at the mouth of Turkey River, and BUEXA VISTA, Iowa, 5 miles below, is of about the same size. POTOSI, Wis., 12 miles below, near the mouth of Grand River, is a flourishing town, of some note, containing near 4,000 inhabitants, and having some valu- able lead mines in its vicinity. PERU, Iowa, 7 miles below : Sino- pee. Wis., 2 miles, ar\.A Jamestown, ^"\$., 1 mile below, brings us to DUBUQUE, Iowa, 5 miles further on. This is the oldest settlement, and the largest city in the State. The his- tory of its site dates from 1774, when Julien Dubuque, arrived in its vicin- ity, and settled among the Sac and Fox Indians, near Prairie du Chien. In 1778, he received from the Indians a grant of land, containing lead mines, discovered by Peosta, wife of one of the chiefs. In 1796, the Governor of Louisiana acknowl- edged the gift, and granted Dubuque a large tract, embracing the site of Dubuque, which was called after its founder, who worked the lead mines until his death, in 1809. The Indians then took possession until their removal further west, in 1832. The lieirs of Dubuque claimed, and for a while retained the grant, but were forcibly ejected by Government in 1833. Disorder ruled for a long period, until Congress by a special act, authorized the sale of the contested land, and that consummated, quiet was restored, and the place began to rajiidly increase. In 1832, the permanent settlement of the place was commenced by Henry MeCrary, who built the first house on the Iowa side of the river, above Keokuk. It is remark- able that on the Illinois side, lead is found in the clay, by digging a few feet below the surface, while in Dubuque, the shafts have to be sunk one hundred feet to reach the reater DUBUQUE TO PRINCETON. Dubuque is one of the most active business places in the west, and is remarkable for the intelligence of its people. Education is justly considered of paramount importance. In 1856, the school system was re-organized, and two extensive school-houses erected, at a cost of $25,000 each. West of the city, the country is strikingly beautiful, and well watered. It is a rolling prairie, interspersed with groves of timber, while along the small streams, running from north to south, there is also plenty of tim- ber, and good water-power. Population about 16,000. We append to this notice of Dubuque, a sketch of the first house, built and occupied by the original settler. Houses of this de- scription are common throughout the west. ■-^^"S^: Dubuque forms another of the favoured spots on the river which enjoj-s the great advantage of direct railroad communication with the cities on the shores of Lake Michi- gan, and from thence to the cities in the east, those on the seaboard, as well as with Canada, and being also one of the chief places for railroad travellers from the east, proceeding either up or down the river. DUNLEITH, III, lies opposite Dubuque, and is the terminus of the nortli-west branch of the Illinois Central Railroad. FEVRE, or Fever River, is a narrow, slug- gish stream, emptying into the Mississippi from Illinois, 15 miles below Dubuque. It is only navigable for steamboats as far up as GALENA, which is situated on both sides of the river, about 6 miles above its mouth, 200 miles north-west of Springfield, and 180 from Chicago. It is the metropolis of the great lead region of northern Illinois, and the depot for the agricultural products of a fine country around. Its trade extends to nearly all the towns on the Ohio and Mis- sissippi Rivers. The houses are built upon streets, terraced one above the other, as they recede from the river, and present a novel and very pleasing appearance. The amount of lead shipped annually amounts to 50,000,000 pounds. A large amount of copper is smelted here. Zinc and copper abound in the vi- cinity. Thousands of tons of zinc lie ne- o-lected on the surface, as the scarcity of coal will not sufficiently pay for smelting. A bank is located hei-e, and three papers are published. Population, in 1858, 12,000. MOSELLE, 111., is a small post village, and lies 7 miles south of Fevre River. BELLEVUE, Iowa, is nearly opposite Moselle. It is situated at one end of a beautiful valley, on a bank elevated 30 feet above high water mark, and has one of the finest landings on the river, formed by a gravelly beach, with a sufficient depth of water to ac- commodate the largest A fine farming district lies back steamers. of the town, and the shipping of immense quantities of produce down the river affords employment to its industrious people. Eight miles below, MAKOQUETA RIVER enters the Missis- sippi. Its length is about 100 miles, and furnishes a large amount of water power. We now pass a succession of small vil- lao-es, varying in population from 100 to 2,000 persons, which we will simply name in the order in which they are reached, viz. : Portsmouth, III. ; Savannah, 111. ; Sabnla, Iowa ; Lyons, Iowa ; Fulton Citij, 111. ; Al barty. 111. ; Camnnche, Iowa ; Cordova, 111. ; Princeton, Iowa; Parkhurst, Iowa; Port 19 DAVENPORT TO MUSCATINE. Byron, 111. ; Le Claire, Iowa, and Hampton, III, when we reach DAVENPORT, Iowa, which is one of the most busy and thriving places on the upper Mississippi It is built at the foot of a bluff which rises graduallj- from the river, with a chain of rounded hills in the background. On another page, we give a view of the railroad bridge, which spans the Mississippi at this point. ROCK ISLAND CITY, just below Daven- port, and opposite it, is built upon an island on the Mississippi, of about 3 miles in extent. On the extreme southern point of the island, upon a rock 20 feet high, stands Fort Arm- strong, an old block-house occupied as a place of defence in the Black Hawk war. There is a recess in this rock, called Black Hawh^s Cave, in which it is said the stubborn chief often concealed himself. The waters of tlie Mississippi at this place are very rapid, and as the channel is covered with ledges of rock, the navigation at stages of low water is frequently obstructed. The country around is extremely rich and fertile, and the city being the southern terminus of the Chicago and Rock Island Railroad, is the outlet of immense quantities of produce, which is sent off by river and rail to all parts of the country. Rock Island City is also distinguished for the number of its man- ufactures, and seems destined to become one of the most considerable towns in Illinois, in this respect. Population, 12,000. MOLINE, a thriving post-village in Illi- nois, opposite the head of Rock Island, is a place enjoying great water privileges from the rapids of the Mississippi. ROCK RIVER, something over 300 miles in length, flows into the Mississippi, near this point. It rises in Wisconsin, and thence flows into Illinois^ and through a rich and extensive valley, which, in time, must prove one of the richest in the western country. It is navigable for about 200 miles, and has a descent of about 380 feet from its source to its mouth. Some of the finest towns in Wis- consin and Illinois are situated upon its banks. The current is obstructed somewhat bj' rapids, but time, and the inevitable laws of progress, will remove these obstacles in due season. Leaving ROCK RIVER, we pass Buf- falo, Iowa, 5 miles below, and Andalusia, 111., just opposite ; lovxi, 8 miles below, and Fairport, Iowa, 1 miles beyond, and come to MUSCATINE, Iowa, formerly called Bloom- ington. This beautiful city is situated on a high bluff, on a bend of the Mississippi, and commands a most superb view of the river and surrounding country. Previous to 1836, when it was first settled by the whites, it was an Indian trading post, known by the name of Manatteka. In consequence of the bend in the river, Muscatine is situated nearer the centre of the State than the other ports on the Mississippi, and therefore com- mands nearly all the trade flowing from the valleys of the Red Cedar and Iowa Rivers. It is a very prosperous place, and gives promise of great future advancement. Popu lation about 8,000. About 8 miles below Muscatine, on the 15th of August, 1837, a terrible steamboat explosion occurred, causing the loss of 25 lives, and the serious scalding and burning of several others of the passengers and crew. The steamer Dubuque, on her trip up the river, from St. Louis to Galena, was running at her usual speed, under a moderate pres- sure of steam, when the flue of the larboard boiler collapsed, throwing a torrent of scald- ing water and steam over the deck. The pilot immediately steered for the shore, and effected a landing. The after part of the boiler-deck, witli all the freight, and every article which had been deposited there, was blown off the boat and far awaj- into the water. Many of the deck passengers, and such of the crew as were in the vicinity of the explosion, wei'e killed outright, while others were dreadfully scalded by hot water and escaped steam. These latter unfortu- nates, escaping to the shore, were driven to frenzy with excruciating pain, and, uttering the most appalling shrieks, actually tore their clothing from their persons — in some instances bringing away the skin, and even the flesh, with th^m. After lingering for hours in intense agony, some of the suft'erers were relieved by death, while others, being cared for, and attended to b}' a number of kind physicians, who had been sent for from Muscatine, (then called Bloomington,) were fortunate enough to recover. It is a notice- able fact that none of the cabin passengers were killed, or seriously wounded. It was 20 MISSISSIPPI RAILROAD BRIDGE, IOWA. PORT LOUISA TO NAUVOO. supposed that the came of this terrible dis- aster was some defect in the material or workmanship of the boiler. PORT LOUISA, Iowa, is a small village, 16 miles below; and 10 miles further down lies the pleasant and thriving town of KEW BOSTON, 111. This is a place of much activity in business, at which a large quantity of produce is bought, and shipped up and down the river. The adjacent coun- try is fertile, and rapidly improving in con- dition. IOWA EIVER enters the Mississippi at this point. It is one of the most important streams in the State, being near 300 miles in length, although navigable for only small boats for about 100 miles above its mouth. KEITHSBURG, HI., V miles; Huron, Iowa, 9 miles, and Oquawka, 111., 10 miles below, brings us to BURLINGTOJ!^, Iowa, 15 miles below the last-named place. This is a fine commercial city, formerly the capital of the State, and, in point of population, is second only to Du- buque. It is the terminus of the Burlington and Peoria, and of the Burlington and Mis- souri Railroads, and is connected with the interior by a plank road, extending fifty miles. Notwithstanding the change of the seat of government from this place to Iowa City, Burlington has continued to improve in size and importance. Being built both upon a level plain, and upon a high bluff which descends with a gradual slope to the water's edge, it has much the appearance of an amphitheatre. The summit of the bluff, which is 200 feet above the river, affords a v:ew of the surrounding country, which is beautiful in the extreme. SKUNK RIVER enters the Mississippi from Iowa, 9 miles below Burlington. It rises near the centre of the State, and flows through a very fertile farming country, and furnishes considerable water power. Its entire length is 250 miles, but is but little navigable. Seven miles below is Pontoo- sue, 111. ; and 5 miles below that is Ap- panoose, in same State. Three miles fur- ther is FORT MADISON, Iowa, which occupies the site of an old fortification, built in 1808, as a defence against the Indians, who, in 1813, obliged the garrison to abandon and burn the fort. Tlie situation of the town, as 22 seen from the river, is very beautiful ; the ground rising with a gradual slope from th« river to the western portion of the town. The State Prison is located here. Two or three ferry boats ply constantly across the river, which is here about one mile wide. This town is somewhat noted for its manu- factures, which have progressed wonderfully within the few past years, and are not ex- celled by any in the State. Population about 4,000. NAUVOO, m., is about 8 miles below. The history of this city makes it one of the most remarkable in the Union. It was founded by the Mormons, under their apos- tle, Joe Smith, in 1840. The situation of the town is one of the most beautiful to be found on the river. The ground rises gradually from the water's edge, to an unusual lieight, presenting a smooth and regular outline, with a broad plain at the surface. As origi- nally laid out, it was 12 miles in circumfer- ence, the streets wide and straight, and crossing at right angles. The houses were small, plain, and of simple construction, with the exception of the " Temple," which was of magnificent proportions, and erected at an immense cost— estimated at half a million ot dollars. It was built of polished limestone, 130 feet long, 88 feet wide, and 160 feet high, and calculated to comfortably hold a congregation of 3,000 persons. In the base- ment was a large stone basin, called the Baptistiy, or Brazen Sea, supported by 12 eollossal oxen, and in this pool the faithful were baptized. The erection of this singu- lar, but magnificent structure, was completed by the male members of the Mormon Church, who either performed a certain amount of labor with their own hands, or else con- tributed a stipulated portion of their property to engage the labor of others. Smith, the originator and leader of this delusion, was finally, in 1844, with several sub-leaders, arrested and thrown into prison, on charges, which, had they been brought to trial, would have been difficult to prove. Soon after, a lawless mob attacked the prison, and shot Smith, without giving him even the form of a trial. His people, tired and wearied with persecuting and being perse- cuted, soon after removed from Nauvoo, and made their long and difficult journey to Utali, where they soon after built the cele- A SETTLER'S FIRST HOME. A RAFT DESCENDKG THE RIVER. 23 'HWif .,;,! NAUVOO TO SALT RIVER. brated Salt Lake City, where they still re- side under the guidance of the notorious Brigham Young. lu 1848, the great Tem- ple was fired by an incendiary, and reduced to complete ruin. Nauvoo, which, in the days of the Mormons, contained 15 or 16,000 inhabitants, has now but about 2,000. A few years ago, a band of French social- ists, under M. Cabet, established themselves — about 400 in number — at Xauvoo, and built upon the site of the temple, having pur- chased the ground upon which it stood. MONTROSE, Iowa, is neaily opposite Nauvoo, and is a fine town, at the head of the Lower Rapids, situated on an elevated prairie, from which a fine view of the coun- try around is obtained. The inhabitants mostly find employment in "lightening" steamers over, the rapids in seasons of low water. A large number of Indian mounds are found in the neighborhood. Passing by Nashville, Iowa, 4 miles; and Montebello, 111., 6 miles below, we reach KEOKUK, Iowa, 205 miles above St. Louis, and 125 miles south of Iowa City. It is situated at the foot of the Lower Rapids, and is at the head of navigation for the larger class of steamboats, which, at certain stages of water, cannot get over the rapids. A line of fine steamers communicates daily between here and St, Louis. Over a thou- sand steamboats arrive and depart from tliis place annually. Keokuk is a very prosper- ous town, and must continue to improve, as it is, from its position, the natural outlet of the fertile valley of the Des Moines, which is the most populous part of the State, We now leave Iowa, and come to the edge of the State of Missouri ; the first town we pass belonging to that State being Alex- andria, situated at the mouth of Fox River. We next come to Des Moines City, Mo., 6 miles below, and then to TULLY, Mo., 12 miles furtlier on; a flourishing town, of about 1200 inhabitants, doing a large business in shipping produce. LAGRANGE, Mo., 6 miles below, is a vil- lage of about the same size, and doing an equally flourishing business. QUINCY, III, 12 miles below, is finely situated, on a limestone bluff, 125 feet above the river, of which it commands an extensive view. The country in the vicinity is a rich, rolling prairie, and one of the most highly cultivated parts of the State. Quincy carries on an active trade by steamboats on the Mississippi. It has a railroad, reaching to Galesburgh, 100 miles distant, and thei-e connects with the Chicago and Burlington road to Chicago, 160 miles. Lines of stages also run from this city to Hannibal, Palmyra, St. Joseph's, etc. This city is one of the most thriving on the river, and is constantly increasing in trade, commerce and popula- tion. Its population, in 1840, was 2,UUU — in 1859, over 15,000. Passing Fabian's River, which passes into the Mississippi in two branches, neither of which is navigable, we come to Marion City, Mo., and then to Aston and Boonville, on the Illinois side. These are all small places, and used as shipping ports for the interior. HANNIBAL, Mo., 7 miles below Boone- ville, is a fine town, doing a large business Opposite Keokuk is Hamilton City, III, in the sale and shipiuent of pork, hemp, and 4 miles below is WARSAW, III, situated on a high blufT, near the site of old Fort Edward. Its po- sition is favorable for trade, and it already does an extensive business in importing and exporting, and is fast growing in population and wealth. Plank roads run from this place several miles, in various directions, towards the interior. Pop. about 5,000. DES MOINES RIVER enters the Missis- ippi, from Iowa, nearly opposite Warsaw. It commences in Minnesota, and runs a course of 400 miles, through an exceeding rich and fertile tract of country, including long ranges of prairie. It is navigable for nearly 200 miles. tobacco, etc., which are raised in the vicinity in great quantities. Coal and carboniferous limestone, an excellent building material, are found in great abundance in the adjoin- ing country-. Hannibal is the terminus of the Hannibal & St. Joseph's Railroad. Popula- tion of the town, about 5,0i)0. Passing Dayton, which is a small settle- ment, opposite Hannibal ; and Saverton, Mo., 8 miles below, we come to SALT RIVER, 18 miles further on. This is the famous stream, up whose saline waters so many defeated politicians have " paddled their own canoes." This river is politically navigable only in seasons after general elec- tion, and we suppose that the defeated can- 25 SALT EIVEK TO MISSOURI KIVER, clidates select a retreat up these waters in order that they may keep until the next canvass. Leaving this forever embalmed stream, we pass a succession of small towns, dotting both sides of the river, the names of which we give in the natural order, viz. : Cincinnati, Mo., Louisiana, Mo., 2 miles ; Clarksville, Mo., 12 miles; Hamburgh, 111., 15 miles; Gilead, 111, 9 miles; Deer Plain, Mo., 27 miles; and 6 miles below, come to the mouth of ILLINOIS RIVER, one of the finest rivers in tlie State from which it takes its name. The country bordering on its banks is rich and productive, and its commerce very large. It runs through many fine prairies, and, in other places, numerous high bluffs adorn its course. Steamboats ascend 250 miles, and from thence the Illinois and Michigan Canal, 100 miles in length, effects a communication with the lakes, at Chi- cago. Going on, we pass Grafton, 111., Portage des Sioux, Mo., 7 miles below, and Randolph, III, 4 miles; and 7 miles further on, we come to ALTON, ni, which is situated at the south terminus of the Chicago, Alton and St Louis Railroad, 72 miles west by south of Spring- field, and 250 from Chicago. In commercial advantages, it is second to no town in the State, having the best landing for steamboats on the east side of the river. A flat rock, level with the water, afibrds an excellent natural wharf. Bituminous coal is found in great abundance, and timber is plentiful in ihe vicinity. The citj- is beautifully laid out, five squares being reserved for public purposes, and a large reservation at the landing-place. Market street is 150 feet wide, and other streets from 60 to 140. It has a city hall, 8 churches, a bank, Ij'ceum, mechanics' association, and an abundance of stores and warehouses. It has a railroad communication with Terre Haute, Indiana, and a regular steamboat connection with St. Louis. Population in 1850, 3,585; 1858, 7,000. UPPER ALTON, two miles east, is situated on an elevated plain, and contains Shurtlelf College, a Baptist Institution, founded 1835. Leaving Alton, and passing down 5 miles, we come to MISSOURI RIVER. This magnificent stream rises in the Rocky Mountains, and, after running a tortuous course over 3,000 miles, mingles its waters with the Mississippi at the point we have now reached. At the distance of 450 miles abcve the navigable waters of its head branches, are the " Gate* of the Rocky Mountains," a series of rocks, which, for the distance of about 6 miles, rise perpendicularly- from the margin of the river, to a height of 1,200 feet. The river is here compressed to the breadth of 150 yards,, and, for the first 3 miles there is but one spot, and that but a few yards in extent, on which a man can stand between the water and the perpendicular ascent to the moun- tain. 110 miles below commences the great " Falls," where the waters, in a distance of 16 miles, descends in rapids, and falls 357 feet. The highest fall has a perpendicular pitch of 98 feet ; the next, 47 ; the third, 26 • and the fourth, 19 feet. Next to Niagara, these fiills are the largest on the continent. The banks of the Missouri are dotted with villages and towns from its mouth up as higii as Council Bluffs, 600 miles from the Mississippi. Beyond this point, the wilder- ness prevails, consisting of vast and almost boundless plains of high grass, peopled only by savages, and immense herds of buffaloes, elk, deer, white bears, antelopes and moun- tain sheep. That the " Upper Missouri" — as this i-egion is named — is rich in agricul- tural and mineral wealth, is unquestionable ; and there is no doubt that the spirit of en- terprise and progress which has led to such mighty improvements in the East, will, ere many years have passed away, make this far-reaching wilderness to blossom and flour- ish like the rose. The rich valley of the Missouri, holds out such high promise for the future, that we cannot forbear transferring to our columns a detailed and graphic notice of its character- istics, whieli we extract from the " New World for 1859," a book of great merit, just published in New York, and containing much valuable information in reference to all the principal places in the United States. We also give an engraving, from the same book, representing a steamer on her way up the Missouri. Between the Missouri and St. Louis — 18 miles below — lie the small towns of Chippewa, Madison, Venice and Bremen. 26 KANSAS AND NEBRASKA. THE VALLEY OF THE MISSOURL In- our description of the -western por- tion of the States, we have conchided for the present not to extend the limits of our information further west than that of the Missouri Valley — and although Nebraska and Kansas formed no part in the original plan, in the publication of the woi-k, yet, from the great emigration movement in that directiurt, whicli there runs into the Jlissouri. No point be- vond the Vemilion can be relied on to raise corn. TiiE Platte River Yalley.- the Platte is sodded with firm, and yet nutri- tious grass, whicli affords a road for wagons, and food for the oxen or mules by which the wagons are drawn. Along this great high- way, the emigration from the Atlantic to the Pacific will pass. In the bottom lands of the Platte, cotton- wood of excellent quality is to be found ; and above and around the forks, cedar in consid- erable quantitj- is to be seen. Tlie width of the Platte is, generally, one mile ; and, when full, is six feet deep, but rarely is so: consecjuentlj-, is considered of no use for navigation purposes. Tlie arable prairies that arise from the blnfl's by wliieh the Platte is hemmed, do not f[)read to any considerable extent after the first 150 miles of its course are ]iasscd. The region south of the I'latte presents a much wider sweep for agricultui-al enterprise. Tliere, a climate not yet infected with tlie j)arehing heat of the low country, is united with a soil of eminent frnitfulness; and. as the arable lands begin to widen, they disclose one of the loveliest regions in tlie world. The arable lands extend from 150 to 200 miles from the river banks. The Composition axd PnonrcnvENESS of the Soil. — ^Tlie general character of the bottom lands — not only of tlie Missouri, but of the Kansas, the Yellowstone, and the Platte — is of san