4^*' l»: LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ©^ap. ■_ _ ©np^rigW l^a. UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. ■:J^5 'W^'-iS ^"'^JSSJ^'^V^'^'' THE SELFBALANCING SYSTEM OK GUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS, BY DITTMAR & SHEIFER, INCLTTDING SCALKS OF THE SEIaF-BALAKCING SYSTEM FOR CUTTING. \ F-UBIvISHKD IN NEW YORK BY DITTMAR & SHEIFER, Authors of Dittmar & Sheifer's Self Balancing S5^stem of Cutting Gents' and Bo3^s' Gar- ments. D. & S. Proportions on Ladies' and Children's Garments. D. & S. Proportions on Men's, Youth's, Bo3^s' and Children's Garments. D. & S. Self-Balancing System of Cutting vShirts. D. & S. Book on Grading, etc. , etc. FOR CONTENTS, CONSULT INDEX ON LAST PAGE. ^%^^ Entered according to Act of Congress in the year iSyi by DITTMAR & SHEIFER, in tlie Otiice of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. CAUTION. — A legal right to use this work must show its couveyanoe to the subscriber by its number and license, with the signatures of the Authors. Any infringement or unauthorized use will be prosecuted to the full extent of the Law, it having been decided by the Librarian that the contents are fully covered and protected by the copyright/' No. of Book, I Authors, PRESS OF NEUMANN BROS., 210 FULTON ST., N. Y. i-^r I lO^ S"^'^-" / i t DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. ^ ^^^-^^i®"'" i^i.<5<^_ CUSTOM DEPARTMENT Tailors' and Hutters' Exchan|B. '*-^t^r ^»^5.t-- W HE facilities of this Academy for imparting reliable and thorough instruction in Ladies' and Gents' Garment Cutting are not equaled iu this country. The systems taught have received the unqualified indorsement of the Cutting fraternity as correct in theory and reliable in practice. To those who are not practical Cutters the charge is One Hundred Dollars for a thorough and complete course of instruction in Garment Cutting ; but to Practical Cutters, not occupying more than one week or ten days at the outside in learning, the charge is Fifty Dollars. The time occupied by students in acquiring a perfect knowledge of Cutting averages from three to six iveeks. No limit is placed upon the time to be occupied by young beginners, as we desire that they shall not leave the Academy until ive are satisfied of their efficiency. The Academy is open for instruction daily (Saturday and Sunday excepted) from lo a.m. to 3 p.m., and pupils ^may commence at any time. WHOLESALE DEPARTMENT TailoFs' and CuUbps' ExclianjB. DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. PREFACE. ^Ilfcf N presenting this work, we have the as- mwMMi\i surance of meeting tlie Avants of the FW^^ trade, bv furnishing a system of actual Wn " . 1 • ■ ^ V measurement, combining pure geo- t metrical principles with simplicity, in fi drafting all styles of over and under- coats, with the use of tape-measure only; it is a system of measuring and drafting that will reach every shape, thereby giving us the high or low shoulder, erect or stooping form, vshoul- der, backward or forwards, narrow or wide arm- scye, narrow or widebackstrop; in fact, produc- ing a correct draft for all forms in as simple a manner as possible. With pleasure we call the attention of the public in general, especially the Tailors, to our " New and Imi'rovkd Svstf.m " of cutting perfect fitting garments, a S3"steni simple in its con- struction, based on mathematical and practical principles, which can easih' be mastered, and wnll compensate the pupil a thousand times over with its results. It has afforded many years of study and experimenting, and stands without a rival in Europe and America. ITS SIMPLICITY. The greatest importance attached to all mechanism is its simplicity; without it we have complications which are liable to get out of order and cause trouble, but when ever3?tliiiig is simple there are fewer chances of its causing an- noyance and trouble. So it is with a system; too mau}^ of them being so complicated and call for so many measures, etc., that a student is perplexed at the multiplicit}^ of his work and the numerous changes necessary to be made to successfully work the SA^stem. We would guard you against learning a system containing too many calculations; the more simple they are, the less liable you are to err in using them. ITS RELIABILITY. In an engine the desideratum to be attained is reliabilit3^ When this point is satisfactorily settled there is no hesitanc}' upon the part of the builders to recommend it. The}' are then satisfied that its work will be thoroughly done, and the}' have no fear of failure. In this S3^stem of cutting its reliability has been settled be3^ond a question, and we have the proofs to offer which are open to the inspec- tion of all interested parties. ITS SWIFTNESS OF EXECUTION. In these days of hurry, when time is reck- oned so valuable that minutes as well as hours are considered, we all aim to economize time as much as possible; "time is mone}'," there- fore it is desirable in selecting a S3'stem to get one that produces good results and consumes the least time in drafting the garment, for in so doing we are selecting the best-p.-wing system. This S3'stem is not onh' simple in its con- struction, reliable in its results, but occupies less time to make a correct draft than any other offered. Hence it is pre-eminently to your ad- vantage to learn it, for "economy is wealth." DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. OUR SYSTEM OF CUTTING. The all-important question to be decided by every student in search of a system for garment cutting is, which is the best systetn iatight ? He is met on the very threshold by the clam- orous multitude of system teachers, all claim- ing, ''par excellence,'' iox their respective systems, which so confuses and perplexes him that, in despair, he is inclined to give up the search and denounce "the whole race." In all "callings" as well as in theology there are "true as well as false teachers," and in many cases it is difficult to decide between them. But we must remember that, because there are ' ' false teachers " is no sufficient reason to denounce all. In all things we must discrim- inate, and, to a large degree, frame our judg- ment upon what we believe the most reliable evidence offered for our consideration, and not allow ourselves to be attracted as are the swarm- ing bees by the din and clatter of noisy bells, tin horns, etc. While this is true regarding things in gen- eral, it is particular!}^ true of all who are in search of a system. We should not be allured by the one making the loudest outcry — ' 'a barking dog never bites. " You can appl)^ the moral. You should act calmly and only after search- ing investigation. One of the surest tests of an3^thing is the result — a pudding's worth can onl}' be decided b}^ eating of it — a S3^stem's worth can only be known by the standard and standing of its scholars. This is meant in a general sense, for you will admit that there are exceptions to all riiles, and it is impossible for professors to impart brains where none exist; hence a good system is occasionally condemned when, in fact, the fault is to be iittributed to the want of artistic abilit}" on the part of the student. Cutters who are unsuccessful in their profes- sion invariabl}^ attribute their failure to the system learned by them. ln(|uiry establishes the fact that, instead of the system being at fault, nine times out of ten it is the man him- self. Incompetenc}' and lack of ability only are the causes of his failure. As a rule most of the S3^stems have some good points — many are defective — a few are good, and none perfect; therefore, the object is to find the one as near perfection as possible; and the best and surest wa}" to judge of this is to definiteh^ settle in your mind which S3^s- tem gives the greatest satisfaction in the most cases, and is most general!}^ endorsed by the successful cutters. In such a search, and b}^ an unprejudiced person, the Tailors' and Cutters' Exchange have no fear of being passed by, being confident that the sj^stem of cutting as taught b}' Dittmar & Sheifer presents points of excellence offered by few if anv other s^'stem, and its endorsement by the most skilled cutters of this city is suf- ficient guarantee of its excellence without our entering into long columns of praise and lauda- tion of its merits. But, for the benefit of those who ma}' not be acquainted with the workings of this system, and the better to allow them to judge of its qualities, we will briefly mention its chief at- tractive points, viz., simplicity, reliability, and swiftness of execution. UITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. THE TAILORS' & CUTTERS' EXCHANGE The Tailors' and Cutters' Exchange, who are the publishers of this work, has been estab- lished for a number of 3^ears, and has alwa3^s been held in high esteem by all who have be- come acquainted with its merits. It has had a steady and prosperous growth from its birth, and has alwa3^s maintained its name for integ- rit}' and true worth. No loud-mouthed trumpets of brass have been engaged to sound its praise or proclaim its virtues, but it has gradually and quietly worked its wa}" up from a small beginning until now it is an acknowledged power in the land, and its friends and patrons are to be found in all sec- tions of this extensive country. Our students are from every State in the Union and Canadas. and its graduates are to be found scattered all over the land. Among the faculty and mem- bers of "The Exchange" will be found some of the best-known tailors and cutters of this city and countr3% and our magazine and its illustra- trations will be under their surveillance; conse- quently the public can rely upon always having the newest designs and most approved styles, eminating from the acknowledged leaders of st3'le and fashion. We have many advantages for the truthful portrayal of fashions over all of our competitors; their boasts to the contrary notwithstanding. But of this we will say no more, as we prefer to have the interested public judge for thern- selves and choose between us, feeling assured that our works and their superiority will speak for themselves. THE POWER OF MEMORY. A correspondent of J^ature tells a curious story of an American waiter at the New York Filth Avenue Hotel, who can take charge of five hundred hats at once, and always return the right hat to the owner, though most of the five hundred owners, and, of course, most of their hats, are completely strange to him. This waiter says that he ' ' forms a mental picture of the owner's face inside of the hat, and that on looking at any hat the wearer's face is instantly brought before his mind's e3^e. " Here, then, if the account be accurate, is another case of a memor3' indefinately strengthened by a power of visualizing impressions which most men never visualize at all. This man visualizes hats with faces under them, as great chess pla3^- ers who pla3' without the board visualize the pieces set in particular squares; only this is a more remarkable exercise of the same power, since five hundred hats must contain many nearly exact copies of each other, while none of the sixt3'-four squares on a chess-board need be confused together at all by an3^ one who can make himself any accurate picture of them. While this may appear "fish3^" there is more truth in it than a casual reader will give credit. We will not maintain that it is "the whole truth and nothing but the truth," but we believe that to a certain extent it is true. Some men possess remarkable faculties for connecting objects. We occasionall3' meet men who imme- diately recall the name of a person upon seeing his face; others associate places of residence with the face, etc. But what we wish to impress upon our read- ers by the above is, that it is a good thing for all cutters to cultivate this faculty. It is well to acquire the habit of photographing the shapes, st3des, etc. , of their customers. By some device tlie3^ should learn to impress indelibly upon their minds an exact counterpart of the various customers the3^ measure; they should so study this subject that b3^ "looking over their man" they could produce, as it were, a. facsimile of him upon paper b3^ simply associating the measures taken with certain "points" they have noted down in their mind. We are positive this is a faculty that can be cultivated to advantage by every cutter, and we think it is his duty to cultivate it, for 133^ so do- ing he fosters and gives life to an element which goes far towards helping him to successfulh' draft his patterns so as to overcome the various defects which may exist in his customer and his system for cutting. DITTMAR & SHEIFERS SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. THE DIGNITY OF TAILORING. A great number of persons are disposed to deride the calling of a tailor, and many 3'oung men may be deterred from learning the trade on this account. If an}' such should read this article, let them remember that tailors stand about as high, as a profession, as any other, as proven by the difficulty of making a good tailor out of a law3'er, while vaany tailors have proved successful lawyers and surpassed as counselors, and a few have made able statesmen. Of the latter, President Andrew Johnson, whatever may have been thought b}^ some of his polic3^ it has been frequently acknowledged by man}^ able men since his death that his state papers are the most correct and able of an}^ since the da3^s of Thomas Jefferson. But, after all, who of modern tailors are justl}^ entitled to the tribute paid to the memor}' of Pasquin, the Roman tailor, who was re- garded as the wittiest man in Rome, and after his death, two thousand years ago, they raised a marble monument in Rome to his memorv, which remains to this day in nearl}^ the centre of the city? No one, unless it be Andrew Johnson. It is true that very many tailors have been Lord Mayors of London, and Bai-on Stults was not only an excellent tailor, but he im- proved the d^'es and tints of cloths, and invented the best factor}^ for making superior cloths of an}^ one in England. Nine journeymen tailors once made a very wealth}^ merchant, who had lettered on the panel of his coach, "Nine tailors made the man." This was done in honor of the noble members of the craft who had made his fortune b}^ donations to establish him in business. But b}^ the conceptions of the following age, when literary scamps found it impossible to get credit with the tailor, the}^ turned the compliment in- to blackguardism by rendering it thus: "It takes nine tailors to make a man." Even Shakespeare was not free from the taint, as shown in some of his plays, in which he endeav- ored to disgrace the tailor. It is an hororable calling, and no one should blush with shame for being numbered among its members. A WORD TO CUTTERS AND TAILORS. Life indeed is short, and the few years we are permitted to live should not be one-sided — in a word, we should live in a measure for, others as well as for ourselves. This should be the aim and life-work of a good tailor or cutter. The tailor should not wait until after years on the bench have passed to begin to learn cut- ting, for then, constantly' in a cramped condi- tion when his limbs are supple, he will find them, in old age, shaky and so enfeebled as not to be able to stand for an}' given length of time. A young man begins and learns cutting thoroughl}', and, thereafter, all other branches of the pro- fession become eas)' and pleasurable tasks. One of the best cutters and tailors in the pro- fession came to our Acadeni}' the other day and applied for a situation, which was speedily obtained for him in one of the leading custom establishments in the city, and you can imagine our surprise when he again visited us, in a few da3'S, saying that he was obliged to leave his situation owing to the feebleness of his legs; that it was ph3'sically impossible for him to stand any considerable length of time This is an illustration which should convey its les- son to every cutter especially, for, this man, after many years an expert tailor, became, in the same degree, a cutter, but in his old da3's was practically useless as such. So begin cut- ting when young and 3'ou will have in your old age a profession that will prove a blessing to 3'ourself especiall3', and to those who ma3' have to depend upon 3'ou. Now your especial attention is called to the fact that it is not b3' any means an edif3''ing sight to see a cutter on his knees measuring a customer for length of garment, and we make it an invariable rule to instil into the mind of the student never to kneel, but in ever3' instance if they have not a platform in the establishment in which the3' may be employed, to procure a box and drape same with carpet or an}' other suitable material and let their customers stand thereon, and thus they will add a .little ray of lustre to the pro- fession, and, among other things, it will ma- terially help them to obtain a correct measure. DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 1. THE MEASUREMENTS ON LADIES' GARMENTS, -BY- DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S 5elf-Bala9ei9(5 System of ^uttipc^ TO BE TAKEN OVER THE WAIST. The measure ousj;ht to be taken with ease and dispatch, and it lias a ]>ad appearance to be moving around 3'our customer; placing your- self behind him, 3'ou can do all the measure- ment without change of position. It is of great importance that 3^our customer should not as- sume a forced or unnatiiral position; to avoid this difficulty, address them on some subject to attract their attention. Be also very careful, in measuring, to place the measure close to the bod3^ neither tight, loose, nor crooked. Applv the measure around the arm with your linger, in order to bring the looseness of the waist close to the bod3^; take all of the same tightness, and those from the socket bone with- out departing from it. The success of a garment depends greatl3^ on the balance which the measurement can ascertain. However, it must not be lost sight of that the human bod3^ is not a statue, and that the greatest care to seize the opportunit3" of having it in its natural position is of the greatest importance. It is not unusual that persons having a stooping attitude, erect them- selves when tlie3^ are to be measured. Take notice of it, and add, sa3^ % or '\ inch on the nape measure according to 3^our remark on their forced attitude, and all these points will locate themselves. 1^^ A brass belt should be used in all cases, when measuring a customer, in order to get the correct measurements of around and length of waist, balance measure, etc. On placing the belt around the customer's waist, take hold of the belt with the buckle in 3"0ur right hand; then place 3^our belt around the waist catching the belt with the left hand. Now place the other end of the belt in the buckle drawing it tight with the left hand to suit customer; after doing this fasten catch which 3^ou will find in end of belt. Belts can be had of Dittmar & Sheifer from $1.50 up, according to sizes. Sizes rtui from 30 to 50 inches. A. Take position behind the customer for measuring. Make a mark on the socket bone, point A. — See Fig. i. B. Make a mark at the centre of back level with depth of arm hole. You ma3^ place a straight line from the depth of arm to the cen- tre of back, point B. —See Fig. 1 . 1. Blade measure from point A, over the shoulder, around the arm. See that 3^our meas- ure be placed in good order and close to the Arm, and coming to the centre of the back, sa3^ 2 2" 2 inches. — See Fig. i. 2. Nape measure from point A to B, sa3' 7';, inches. — See Fig. i. 3. Length of waist from point A, sa3" 16 inches. — See Fig. 1. 4. Total length of garment according to st3de of garment. 5. Width of shoulder from point A to the top of shoulder bone, sa3' ;'< inches. — See Fig. i. 6. Depth of arm hole. Place a pencil or an3^ other straight line under the arm. Take depth of arm-hole from point A to the depth of arm, sa3' ii'< inches. — See Fig. 2. 7. Front balance from point A over the shoulder straight down to front centre of waist, sa3' 20 inches. — See Fig. 2. 8. Length of sleeves, from point A on socket bone over the shoulder, in front of arm down to the wrist, say 29 inches. — See Fig. 2. 9. Bust. Over the largest part of the chest and over the blade, say 36 inches. 10. Around waist, sa3" 24 inches. 11. Hip. 4 inches below waist, say 38 inches. 12. Seat. About 8 inches below waist, sa3" 46 inches. 20V -7-<- FULL MEASUREMENT. ■ 1 6—7%— 1 1 V,— 20— 28— 36— 24— 38— 46 Plate 1. DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 2. DRAFTING THE OUTLINES. THE OUTLINES OF A LADIES' GARMENT WHATEVER IT MAY BE. This is the foundation of the garment by drafting after Dittmar & Sheifer's Self-Balanc- ing System of Cutting Ladies' Garments. MEASUREMENTS. Blade, Nape, - Length of Waist, Total Length, Width of Shoulder, Depth of Arm, 7 '4 1 6 Front Balance, Length of Sleeve, Bust, Waist, Hip, Seat, - 29 24 3S 46 1. Draw a line on bottom edge of paper. 2. Square line 2 b}^ line i. vSee your line 2 to be perfect, squared with line i. 3. Blade measure (ist measure) 22', in- ches. Apply 22", on scale No. i, from line i to 3, draw central line. 4. Depth of arm 11";, inches (6th measure). Apply II \ inches from line 2 to 4. Square line up. 5. Nape measure (second measure) 7';,. inches. Apply 7'., inches from line 4 to 5 on line I. 6. Length of waist (3d measure) 16 inches. Apply 16 inches from point 5 to 6 on line i. 7. 1% inches from point 6 to 7. 8. . Draw a line from points 5 to 7. 9. Square a line up b}" line 8. 10. Width of shoulder (5th measure) 7', inches. Apph^ 7', inches from point 5 to icon line 9. 11. Blade measure (ist measure) 22', in- ches. Apply 22'4 on scale No. 2 from line 3 to 1 1 on line 4. Draw a line from 10 to 11. 12. Measure the distance from point lo to 1 1, and take the third part of the said distance from ID to 12. 13. In the centre between point 1 1 and 1 2. 14. Measure the distance between line 3 and point 1 1 (say 5 inches), take the same 5 on scale No 3 from point 5 on line 9. 15. From line 2 to 15 the same as there is from 5 to 14. Square line up by line 3. 16. Blade measure (ist measure) 22% in- ches. Placing X on line 2. Apply 22% on scale, No. 2, on line 3. 1 7. DraW' a line b}^ point 1 6 to point 5, then square a line b}" point 16 up to point 17. This locates the neck shoulder point. 18. Bust measure (9th measure) 36 inches. Apply half from line 8 to 18 on line 4. 19- Allow^ance for seams, according to thickness of material and seams preferred, from 2 to 3 inches from point 18 to 19. Draw line down squared b}^ line 4. 20. Measure the distance from line 3 to point 18, say 7 inches. Apply 7 on scale No. 3 to X from point 1 7 to 20 on line 1 5. Draw a line from 20 to 19. 21. Measure the distance from point 20 to 19 and apply the third part of the distance from 20 to 21. Now draw a line from 2 1 to 13, 22- Front balance ( 7th measure) 20 inches. Apply 20 inches from line 2 to 22 on line 19. Now draw a line from point 7 to 22. This line gives the natural waist. 23- Measure the distance from point 19 to 22 and appl}^ the third of the distance from 19 to 23 on line 19. Now place your ruler on point 23 adjoining lines i and 4, and draw a line from point 23 to about line 3. This line gives 3^011 the height of darts. The above shows the perfectability of our measurement S3'stem and the corresponding result of the drafting wdiich the attentive stu- dent can rely upon as perfect guide to all the various forms. In drafting any pattern of any measure you draft in the same way. You will find the like result of the above which is a certain proof of the correctness of our Self-Balancing System. Drafting the garment see next page. DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 3. DRAFTING A GARMENT, BY THE SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. A. Width of shoulder accordinj^ to style and taste, about %inch from point 12. B. Width of back from 2 to 2', inches. 0. I", inches from B to C. D. Side body on line 3. E. In the centre, between D and C, take out y^ of an inch (these three parts). Side bodies and back must have the fourth part of waist, (6 inches) allowing for seams on waist. F. I' 2 inches from line 3 for arm-hole. Make front shoulder same length as back. G. ' anch from line 3. H. In the centre between point 23, and line 3, draw a line down from point H. 1. Measure from point 22 to G, deduct the fourth part of waist measure (6 inches) and take out balance on front dart. Make allowance for seams. K. Seven inches below waist allow one inch up from straight line ; now draw a line from point 22, this gives the spring of the gar- ment below waist on the front. This line should be continued for spring of long garments. Hip measure is 38. Appl}^ 38 inches 4 in- ches below waist, make allowance for seams. Seat measure 46 inches. Appl}^ 46 inches 8 inches below waist, making allowance for seams. CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN. These two measures can be applied after the draft is finished; should your draft measure more than hip and seat calls for, you can break oft" equall}^ on each part, or if the same meas- ures less, 3'oumust allow the same wa}^ equalh' on each part so as to correspond with the meas- urements. Allow I/-; inches on the front for the buttons and holes for single-breasted, and from 2% to 3', inches for double-breasted, according to lap. Before j^ou cut out your pattern look it over carefull}^ b}^ running 3'our ruler over the same lines and measuring the different points, it will be eas}^ to correct any mistake while 5'our draft is intact, but after being cut out it will be very difficult to make changes. In cutting out the pattern it will prove more valuable to cut every part full, so you must in each case trace each side body out first, to do this place a clean paper under your draft, trace first one side body ( with a tracing wheel), then after doing this cut it out, being careful to notch it at the waist. Now trace the other side bod}' and cut it out, not forgetting the notches at the waist. The back and front can be cut out from your draft. Notches for sleeves to be placed for forepart % of an inch above bust line, the back notch should be placed at the top and centre of side hodj. IMPORTANCE AFTER CUTTING OUT. It is ver}' important for ever}' cutter to put the date, measurements and name of customer on the pattern. For draft of sleeve see next Plate. TAILORS' AND CUTTERS' EXCHANGE. ^ w m J3- 1 jTi 1 mm Ptttt ^m^ ^m^ .,.;:.,, 1. ' 'IH ■ — :>'-"^i """.": ^M ^^ DITTMAR &• SHEIFER, Pkoprietoks i 14 DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 4. DRAFTING A SLEEVE. Measure the top of armhole from notch on forepart to the top of centre of back-side-bod \'. sav 1 1 inches (see Plate 3). Now measure the underarm from notch to notch, sa_Y 7 inches (see Plate 3). 1. DraAv line 1. 2- Square line 2 b\' line i. 3- Top armhole measure 11 inches. Apply 1 1 inches from line i to 3. 4- From line 2 to 4, the same distance as there is from point A to notch of side body (see Plate 3). 5. From line 2 to 5, same distance as there is from A to bust line (see Plate 3). 6- In the centre between lines 1 and 3. 7- From line 5 to 7, V^ of an inch, same as from l)ust line to notch of forepart (see Plate 3). 8- Underarm measure 7 inches. Appl}^ '/ inch less (6"1 inches) from point 7 to 8 on line 4. 9- Sleeve length measure 29 inches, de- duct depth of armhole measure (11', inches) and appl}' the balance of measure from line 5 to 9. 10- In the centre between point 9 and line 5, draw back elbow i inch lower. Bottom of sleeve for plain ordinary stvle, cut the bottom i inch more than the fourth part of bust measure. 36 inches bust, make sleeve 10 inches wide on bottom, allowance extra for seams. Divide the bottom of sleeve so your under sleeve should be about 2 inches narrower than the upper. Extend both % of an inch forward on bottom. Cut upper sleeve in elbow i inch from line i and 3', inches for under sleeve, hollow the front of sleeve i'_, inches in elbow. For plain sleeve with ordinary fullness cut \our sleeve up to line 2, for high putf from 3 to 5 inches above line 2 (largest part of puff on line 6 ). DRAFTING THE COLLARS. Fig. 1. The plain tailor made turn down collar. Draw a line from position 3'ou want roll to start from up to the neck-shoulder point. A, I inch below for crease of collar. B, from shoulder to B, same as width of the top of the back. Width of collar in back is cut from 3 to 3',> inches. Width of front collar is cut accord- ing to st3de and taste. Fig. 2. The Shawl Collar is cut in the same manner as Fig. i, but about 2% inches wider on back, and curve your collar in to the front same as shown on diagram. Fig. 2. Fig. 3- The Medici Collar. This collar should be cut with a big hollow on back in order that the collar should have plenty of spring on the back of the lady's head. Fig. 4- The Sailor Collar. Place vour back and front together with the shoulder seam, after doing so collar will be ver}" eas}' to get by the shape of the neck, back, etc. ( See diagram Fig. 4-^ Fig. 5- The Standing and common Turn Down Collar. Draw a line, A, 'of an inch curve on front. Now apply the neck measure b}' measuring neck of front and back. The turn down collar is shown on the same, Fig. 5. Allow I inch of crease in back and '^ inch in front. SPECIAL NOTICE. No one, except in this Academ3\ is author- ized to, nor capable of, teaching any of our S3'stems. Gents or ladies and any one under- dertaking to do so wrongfully and imposes on the trade. We teach our students how to cut, but we do not teach them how to teach. The instruc- tion we give a student is given him for his per- sonal use onl3^ and if he teaches another for pay he is moralh' guilty of a breach of trust, and those interested should not permit them- selves to be imposed on. DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 5. DRAFTING A LOOSE FRONT GARMENT. Wnil (Ik WITHOUT VEST. Front side bod_y should be cut '^^ of an inch turther front than for tii.^ht fitting, talce out from side to front on waist I'^inch. Front from waist up slioidd be cut % of an incli shorter than side bod}', this should be done for all loose fronts, as the front must be stretched in order to smooth out the wrinkles which generall}^ appear on a loose front garment at the waist. Cutting the front of forepart for a loose and straight front, single or double breasted, see G and Gx on next plate. THE VEST. Front of vest is cut same as front of Plate 3. Average length of vest, from 5 to 6 inches in front and 2 inches on side. Front dart of vest divide the same as on Plate 3. For vest with full back, see Plate 17. THE BEAUTY OF A GARMENT. The success of a cutter does not alwa3's de- pend in cases of a smooth tit. We know of some cutters whose garments are always fitting to perfection, but no shape to them at all — this is spoiled by refitting. The principal we claim in our S3'stem is the shape of all curves as well as the fitting. If measurements are taken with care you are sure of a perfect fit ; no need of alteration. There- fore your shape and curves will remain as designed in drafting your pattern. THE PECUNIARY VALUE OF TASTE. In general we have a ver}' inadequate ap- preciation of the pecuniar_v value of taste. Taste measurabl}^ supplies a deficiency of means in almost everything. How often do we see a cheap but tasteful!}' planned and arranged cottage excelling in at- tractiveness the costly but ill-contrived dwell- ing ! The difference between taste and the want of it is strikingly manifest in the laying out of grounds and planting trees and shrubs. It is also manifest in other ways. One person always appears well dressed, another never; yet the one wdio is ill-dressed may pa}' his tailor twice as much a year as the other. One who does not understand the adaption of style and colors may be loaded wdth costly garments and finery, and yet never appear well dressed. To some persons taste in everything seems natural, but in all it admits of cultivation. And the cultivation of one's taste not only saves money, but it is a' source of much satisfaction and happiness. :*'<• Plate 5. iS DITTMAR & SHEIFERS SELF-BALANCING vSYSTEM. Plate 6. DRAFTING A PLUSH GARMENT. JACKETS, SAC(JUES, NEWMARKETS, ETC. Heavy Cloth Garments Lined are cut in the same way. 18 to 19 allow 3 inches. A. Width of back from 3 to 3'/; inches. B. From A to B 1% inches. C. From line 3 1% inches. D. Take out i "/, inches from C to D. E. For armhole 2% inches from line 3. F. Neck shoulder point to be placed i inch above point 1 7. G and G X. In a square ' ^ of an inch below point 18. H. Allow two inches for ordinary lap of sack; 3 inches for double breasted Jacket or Newmarket. Facing should be allowed on front of garment for all loose fronts (will not work well for tight). DRxVFTING THE BOTTOM OF A SACK OR NEWMARKET. I. For sack or Newmarket, i inch from line I. J. Width of back on bottom the sixth part of bust measure. K. Draw side-bod)^ in the centre of back on bottom. L. Width of side-body for sack the fourth part of bust, and for Newmarket cut the same I ' ; inches more. M. Front for Sack i inch from J ; for New- market run it down to point J. Collar is already given on Plate 4, Fig. 2. SPECIAL FOR FURRIERS. Seal Skin, or other fur garments, of course, does not need the allow- ance for seams as cloth garments, but '/g of an inch for each seam should be considered taken in from each part. The main allowance for skin garments is for the lining, if quilted lin- ing, allowance of 2 in- ches must be made from points 18 to 19. If plain lining i "^ inch is enough. The same allowance should be made on waist and hip. Width of back i^ should be cut ''.inch nar- rower. Shoulder must l)e cut much narrower as for cloth. If tight fitting, two darts should be placed in forepart instead of one. All other points should be done the same as given on Plates 2 and 3. '; For cloth garments lined with fur allowance must be made besides the regular allowance as follows : Blade, - 22^4 inches. Bust, - - 36 inches. Depth of Arm, ii>^ in Allow, - - I " Allow. - - 2 Allow, - - - % " Cut, - - 23K " Cut - - 38 '■ Cut, - - - 12X " Waist, hip and seat should be allowed same as bust. OUR SUCCESS WITH FURRIERS. During the past few years our classes have grown considerably larger with students in that department, learning the art of designing for fur garments ; their success cannot be equaled with any other system of cutting, in producing such faultless style and fit of which we hold testimonials. DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 7. DRAFTING A WRAP. SHORT OR LONG, JAPANESE OR OTHER SLEEVES. Fig. I. The extra measurements requiring for Wrap Sleeve. B. Elbow measure, from point A (or socket- bone) to the front of elbow, say i6 inches. C. Total length, continue 3"0ur measure- ment to the wrist, say 24 inches. Our supplement of cutting wraps, which has proven the most valuable work invented, and used only by our Mr. Shelter in his private practice. See Plate 14. DRAFTING. Cut the armhole 2 inches below line 4, bust line. Start back side-body from bust line. Other point same as Plate 3. A. Elbow measure, 16 inches. Apply 16 inches from line 2 to A. Draw line up. B. The eighth part of bust, 4", inches, from armhole to line B. C. In the centre between lines B and 3, D. From line B to D, the third part as there is from line C to B. E. Total length of sleeve, 24 inches De- duct elbow, 16 inches, and apply the balance, 8 inches, from line B to E on line A; this com- pletes the points for top sleeve. Back on waist to be cut from 2' 1 to 3 inches wide, and run it down with one curve from shoulder seam (.See Diagram). F. G. H. inches, THE JAPANESE SLEEVE. From 10 to 12 inches from E to F. Under-sleeve 4 inches less as upper. According to style and taste about 3 and 2 inches extra for turn up, below waist line. X. Notch for sleeve i inch above D, or line 3. Start your under-sleeve from the same point and curve it i inch lower in front. See point O. I, Bottom for Japanese under-sleeve 6 inches above bottom of upper-sleeve, also 4 inches narrower in width, as the upper-sleeve should be gathered on bottom in order to form a shape of a curve on bottoin of Japanese Sleeve. J. Represents open sleeves on bottom. This is, of course, a matter of taste and st3de. K. Represents how under-sleeve is cut for open bottom sleeves of all descriptions. Cut 3^our under sleeve for the same about 7 inches wide in front. Long wraps, such as Dolman, Raglan, etc., sleeve to be cut in the same wa}'. For body see page 1 8, Plate 6. Spring wrap ma}" be cut without side bod3^ and elastic band is fastened on waist and under- arm to hold the front in shape. Open bottom sleeve is mostl}^ worn for the same. w \ \ \ \ ^ \« \« \ <♦ \ o ■• .1^ DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 8. CUTTING THE SHOULDER CAPES. All measurements required for a shoul- der cape is bust, neck and length. Drafting a shoulder cape say 36 inch bust, take a 36 inch l)ust pattern, no differ- ence what style of a garment, all 3'ou want is the shape of the shoulders and neck. DRAFTING A HIGH SHOULDER CAPE. Draw a line up. A to B. Bust measure 36 inches, apply one half of bust and allow the eighth part of bust to it, which makes 22'/, inches from A to B. Now place 3^our back pattern with bust line (or line 4) on point A. C. 1 inch below line. This point can he moved lower if you don t want much puff on sleeve, or can be moved less than i inch below line if higher putf is wanted. Now place your forepart with bust line (or line 4) on point B. D. I inch below line. This point should be moved same as point C. E. Allow I inch on shoulder of back in order to bring seam of cape more on the centre of shoulder. F. Break off ' , inch from forepart shoidder. G. 2' . inches deep for back seam. H. 4 inches deep for forepart seam. Now draft cape as shown on diagram. DRAFTING A PLAIN SHOULDER CAPE. A. Draw a line. B. Place 3rour back pattern with top on line and move 2 inches forward in waist. D toC. The eighth part of full bust meas- Shoulder piece i';; inches wide on Shoulder piece 3' ^ inches wide on ure. C toE. top. O to F. bottom. F to Gr. I inch less as there is from D to C. Now break off from shoulder forepart pattern same as allowed for shoulder piece, from C to E and O to F. Draft your cape as shown on diagram. B}^ following the rules above for cutting capes, we are taking the pleasure of sa^^ing that these rules are on solid foundation, we can assure a perfect fit in all cases. It gives you a perfect shape over the shoulder, balancing your cape straight down in front and back with plenty of room for the arms underneath. 24 DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 9. DRAFTING A CIRCULAR. WlTJl UK WITHOUT VEST. A. In the centre between back on bust line. B From X. The full bust measure, 36 in- ches, draw a line from A to B, this gives 3^ou the spring of cape. C. iy< inches above A for notch on cape; the notch must meet in putting the garment together with notch on back with bust line. D. Measure the distance from bust to waist line and apply the same from C to D. E. Measure the distance from waist line to full length of garment, and appl}^ the same from D to E, for length of cape. Front to be cut same as given on plate 6. THE VEST. ( See Darts, ■)■ F. For front of cape 4 inches from X. G. About 5 inches from F, for lap of cape over vest. Cut the length of side bodies about 3 inches below waist. If vest with sleeve cut )'Our back side up to shoulder seam (see dia- gram). Other divisions for sides and front dart same as on Plate 3. Newmarket with cape combined to be cut in the same rule, bringing side body all away down, as given on Plate 6, and cutting the cape short. I 2f) DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 10. CUTTING THE SKIRT GARMENT. Following the rules given below for cutting a skirt for any garment, either short or long, 3^ou will have no trouble at all in fitting the gar- ment on your customer, as the following rules are ver}^ simple in its construction and gives best result. In cutting a skirt garment, cut a plain gar- ment out first with side bodies all away down, measuring the hip, seat, etc. , as your measure- ments calls for. A and B. Place your forepart and side to- gether; lap a seam over each other; begin the seam 4 inches below waist. C and D. Placing back side body together with other side body, same as A and B. After doing this common sense will teach 3'ou how skirt is cut. See Diagram. E. For a jacket, commence your skirt 2'; inches below waist; for newmarket, 3 inches. F. From 4% to 6 inches below waist. This point is more a matter of taste and style. G. From F to G same as taken out in front dart O. Front length of skirt same as back. Make a V in skirt straight with front and side seam in order to bring the shape on the hip. Fig. I. — This represents how a lapel is cut for double breasted tailor made garment. Cut the same 3 inches wide on bust, iV^ inches on waist and from 2", to 3 inches on top. I I I / I I ; I ^iim DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 11. THE MEASUREMENTS AND DRAFTING OF LADIES KIDING TROUSERS. In measuring a lady for trousers let her sit on a chair, as shown in Fig. i . In order to get rise to the measure. Other measures can be measured while the lad}" is standing up. Measurements requiring for Ladies' Riding Trousers is as follows : Waist, say 24 inches ; hip, 6 inches below waist, sa}^ 43 inches ; rise, say 1 2 inches ; lap, sa}" 2 2 inches ; total length to the sole of foot, say 42 inches. Knee measure may be cut V, inch less than the half part of bust. Bottom of trousers may be measured on lad3% or you can cut the same ", of an inch less than the knee. FULL MEASUREMENTS. Waist, - . - 24 inches Hip, - - - - 43 Rise, - - 12 Lap, - - - 22 ' ' Length, - - 42 Knee, - . - - 16K " Bottom, 16 DRAFTING THE TROUSERS. 1, Draw a line. 2. Square line 2 by line i. 3- Rise measure, 1 2 inches from 2 to 3. 4. Lap measure, 22 inches from 2 to 4. 5. Length, 42 inches from line 2 to 6. 6. Hip measure, 43 inches. Apply the fourth part from line i to 6 on line 3. Square a line from this point and line 3. 7. From point 6 to 7 the third part of the distance as there is from line i to 6. 8. Waist measure 24 inches. Appl}' the fourth part and allow 1% inches to it from line 6 to 8. Central line in the centre between point 7 and line i. 9. The fourth part of the knee measure from central line. 10. From 9 to 10 one-half of knee meas- ure. 11. 12. 3/', inches from central line to 1 1. 7 inches from 11 to 12. X. From point 6 to X, the half of the dis- tance as there is from 6 to 7. Now draw front as shown on diao-ram. DRAFTING THE BACK PART. A. Allow I inch above point 7. B. From line 2 to B, same as there is from central line to 6. C. From B to C, the fourth part of waist and allow 2 inches. D. I inch from line i. E. % of an inch from point 9 to E for seam. F. From 10 to F, same as from 9 to E. G. Bottom measure 16 inches. Appl}-^ half of the measure and allow % of an inch to it from point 1 2 to G. H. From 11 to H, the same as from 12 to G. Now draw back part, as shown on diagram. Cut two V's out in top of back part to fit the waist. DITTMAR & SHEIFERS SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 12. LADIES' RIDING HABITS. The representation of ladies' riding habits are selected from man)^ examined by us, and combine simplicit}^ and elegance. The}' repre- sent the costumes most generall}^ worn b}' ladies, although there are very many other styles, which vary according to the individual taste of the wearers. Horsback riding of late 3^ears has become a very fashionable pastime, and our avenues and Central Park are crowded with equestrians early in the mornings and late of evenings. Ladies especially within the past few years are much given to this health}^ exercise, and our riding schools are filled with pupils learn- ing the art of horseback riding. \ i The skirt of this habit is much shorter than those of former 3'ears, and is made with very little draper3\ It is mostl}' worn with trousers made from the same material as the habit, or from black doeskin. Riding habits are mostly made from light- weight cloths — brown, dark green, blue, and similar colors predominating in favor. Fifteen years past cutting a riding skirt was ver}' eas3^ there was no s^^stem to it, onl}' plain, straight pieces of cloth cut about 6 inches longer than sole of foot. The top was gathered to fit the waist, that finished it. But at the present time we can be proud of sa3dng that riding skirt cutting is done to fine point, systematioelly, as the body of a garment. Away with all fullness ! What does not require fitting smooth on the lad}''s lap, and when mounted no wrinkles above or below the knees. Elastic should be used for right and left lap to keep the skirt in firm when riding. On the opposite page we represent a diagram of a most serviceable riding skirt, excellent in its styde and fit, and one of the leading in Paris, London and New York. Measurements for skirt to be used same as for trousers, with the extras of front and back from waist to sole of foot. FULL MEASUREMENTS. Waist, - - 24 Seat, - - - 42 Rise, - - 12 Lap, - - 22 Side Length, - - 42 Front Length, - - - ■ - 42 Back. 45 inches. DRAFTING THE SKIRT. 1. Draw a line. 2. Square line 2 b}^ i. 3. Rise measure, 12 inches. Apply 12 inches from line 2 to 3. (continued on page 32). CM ^ V' SO ^ 32 DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. (concluded from PAGE 30). 4. Waist measure, 24 inches. Appl}" the fourth part (6 inches) from line 1 to 4, on line 2. 5. From 4 to 5 ; again the fourth part of waist. 6. From 5 to 6, the eighth part of waist. Make a V from points 5 and 6. 7. From 5 to 7, the half of waist. 8. Seat measure, 43 inches. Appl}" half from line i to 8 on line 3. 9. From 8 to 9, the third part as there is from line i to point 8. Now draw a line down from point 7 and point 9. 10. From 9 to 10, the third part as there is from 9 to 8. Now draw a line down from point 7 and point 10. 11. 2 inches below point 5. 12. 2 inches below point 6. 13. 1 inch below point 7. 14. Side length, 42 inches from point 7. 15. Front length, 42 inches from top and centre between points 12 and 13. 16. Back length, 45 inches from point 4 to 16. 17. Lap measure, 22 inches from point 1 1. 18. About 6 inches, for V on knee, from 17 make V 6 inches deep. (Don't cut the same out before skirt is tried on.) Cut the left part about 6 inches longer on side in order to cover the left foot when mounted (see darts on bottom of diagram). In cutting the cloth for riding skirt be care- ful to place your pattern on cloth with right and left part ; make an allowance of 3' , inches on bottom for a hem. Opening for skirt to be made straight with the V. Plate 13. CUTTING A NEWMARKET FROM A JACKET OR OTHER SHORT GARMENT. Fig. I. DRAFTING THE BACK. A. Draw a line a little over the length measure of newmarket. B. Place top of back on line A, and i inch upward in waist. C. The full length of newmarket, and allow I inch for making up from top of back. D. Width of Back on bottom, i\> inches less than the sixth part of bust measure, saj^ 4'/ inches, if 36 inches bust, from C to D. Now draw back, as shown on diagram. Fig. 2. DRAFTING THE SIDE-BODY. Draw a line. E. Place side-body ^; of an inch upward in waist, and with the blade on line. F. From E to F same as there is from B to C (see Fig. i). G. Width of side-body the fourth part of bust measure, and allow 1'/ inches to it, 10% inches, if 36 inches bust. Now draw side-body, as shown on diagram. t^ig- 3- DRAFTING THE FOREPART. Draw a line and place 3'our forepart on the line, as shown on diagram. H. Place front-side i inch back from fore- part. I. Side from forepart i'/ inches at the waist. J. Make allowance outside of side-body same as the lap of side-body over forepart. K, Length of front. This may be meas- ured on customer and applied on draft, or make your front 2'/, to 3/; inches shorter than the back length. L. Width of forepart half of seat measure, say 23 inches, if 46 inches seat. Length of side to correspond with back side body. M. Depth of front dart 7 inches below waist. O. Depth of side dart 3', inches below waist. Make allowance on front for lap. Fig. 4. This diagram represents how a shoulder yoke is cut for any st3de, either cape or circu- lar. Place forepart and back of any garment together with the shoulder seams, then draft your yoke, as shown on diagram. 34 DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 14. CUTTING A WRAP FROM A PLAIN JACKET, ETC. This system of cutting a wrap, given below, is a supplement to one already given on page 20 and plate 7. But to make this book more valuable we present 3^ou the below instructions of cutting a wrap sleeve from a plain coat sleeve which will save 3^ou time in cutting and fitting the wrap for a customer. You have a jacket or a waist fitted already. Fig. 1. DRAFTING THE SLEEVE. A. Place back and sleeve together as shown on diagram. B. To be placed level with point A. C. Draw a line up from point B, elbow of sleeve. E. Measure from C to D, and apply the same from C to E, on line C. F. Notcb for sleeve ^/ of an inch below coat sleeve notch. Now draw your wrap sleeve as shown on diagram. THE BACK. Cut your back about '/ of an inch narrower on the shoulder as the regular coat back, and about 1 inch wider to back on the waist. THE FOREPART. In altering the forepart take off % of an inch on the width of shoulder, and the armhole 2 inches lower from the regular. THE SIDEBODY. For wrap cut to correspond with forepart. Under sleeve and C, see Page 20. ITS SWIFTNESS OF EXECUTION OF THE ABOVE SYSTEM. In these da3"s of hurr3^ when time is reck- oned so valuable that minutes as well as hours are considered, we all aim to economize time as much as possible; "time is mone}%" therefore it is desirable in selecting a S3^stem to get one that produces good results and consumes the least time in drafting the garment, for in so do- ing we are selecting the best-taving S3^stem. This system is not onl3^ simple in its con- struction, reliable in its results, but occupies less time to cut a correct wrap than an3" other offered. Hence it is pre-eminenth^ to 3^our ad- vantage to learn it, for "econoni3' is wealth." "DECOY DUCKS." ' ' Deco3^ Ducks " are very properly described b3^ an observing friend as "the prominent per- sons whose names appear as patrons, trustees, etc.," of the various weak institutions that are begging for public consideration. Ver3^ frequentl3^ this trick and device is resorted to b3^ unscrupulous persons to foist up- on the uninitiated and unsuspecting public, bogus institutions, and not unfrequentl3' the names of prominent individuals are used with- out their knowledge or consent. As an illus- tration of this fact we refer you to the case of the bogus Medical Institute of (Philadelphia, which was publicl3^ exposed after existing for years upon the moral support given it b3^ the illegal use of the names of popular men throughout the country. But in time all this rascalit3' is exposed and the institutions resorting to such mean expedients are landed upon the rocks of adversity hopeless wrecks. (continued on I'AGE 36.) 36 DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 15. OUR FAVORABLE DESIGN FOR SEAL PLUSH, ETC. This style of cutting wraps, as shown on dia- gram, is very favorable mostly in cases of seal or seal plush. It is our stan- dard design, and ver}' valuable as it saves much of material on account of lower side and sleeve be- ing cut in one piece. Short side bodies (see darts ) cut about 3"; inches below waist to be put under the arm in order to hold the forepart in shape. This can be cut of silk or farmersatin or any other suitable ma- terial. An elastic band can be placed under the arm and waist to answer the same purpose. THE DRAFTING. Draft your back and forepart same as given on page 20, and Plate 7. A. To form the sleeve about 5 inches below waist. B. The fourth part of bust and allow 1% inches from point A to B for width of side. Now draw a straight line down, this will give you width of side on bottom. C. From B to C, 3/; inches, apply your seat measure on back side and forepart, if not enough as measure calls for, make allowance from B to C, if more than measure calls for, break off from point C. Now draw your fore- part and break oft' bottom 3"^ inches from back to forepart on account of side being wider. D. From i ' , to 2 inches for turn up from B. Make front of upper sleeve about 12 inches wide. E. From C. to E same as there is from B to D. Make the under sleeve same length as upper and 4 inches narrower in front than the upper. Short wraps can be cut in the same way ; sleeve and lower side in one piece and upper side bodies to be put in from lining in order to save valuable material. (See dots on Diagram .) (concluded from page 34,) "DECOY DUCKS." Some of these "decoy dvicks" are of solid wood, even to the head, while others extremely hollow are of brass, but one kind is just as mis- chievous as the other, and both need watching at this time, especially, for the prosperous sea- son has brought out a great many hunters after snug surpluses that numerous people have begun to accumulate. "A wink is as good as a nod to a blind horse." To make the applica- tion of the above remarks more plain and clear to Ihe hasty reader we would impress upon his mind that not all the names printed and used by certain persons are used with the consent of the individuals, but they are illegally used and purposely published as decoys to deceive the un- wary public. Their object is like that of the spider to the fly — they aim to get you in their clutches, and for this purpose flamingly publish the names of prominent individuals as trustees, etc., and use these names as "decoy ducks." We would advise you to give them ' ' a wide berth," for so sure as you allow them to fasten their fangs upon you, you are a victim to their unscrupulous thirst for money, and they will fleece you without mercy. Listen not to their siren songs, but if you should be lulled by their cadence for a moment, shake off your lethargy and remember the warnings we have given you. All interested persons who desire to know "the bone and sinew " of the Tailors' and Cut- ters' Exchange can have full particulars upon application at our offlce. But we publish no names — We use no "Decoy Ducks." 38 DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate IG. THE JERSEY WAIST. IMPORTANCE FOR CUTTING JERSEY MATERIAL. Allowance must be made at the length of waist from ' , to i inch according to stretching of the material ; the same allowance must be made on front balance. Allow from "/g to % to nape measure. Reductions must be made in bust, waist and hip. DRAFTING A JERSEY WAIST. A. Length of shoulder, say 3% inches for a 36 inch bust. B to 0. Take out i inch. D to E. Take out i inch. This is done to make allowance for the stretching, F. Take out from armhole in front 2',, inches. Waist to be cut in the same wa_v as bust, 2 inches less than the measure. Armhole to be cut not lower than bust line. All other points to be done the same as other garment. H. If forepart is wanted without a dart take I inch from straight line. G, ' ^ inch less than the fourth part of waist measure from H to G. DRAFTINGA ONE SEAM SLEEVE FOR JERSEY. 1. Draw a line. 2. Square by line i. 3. The fourth part of bust measure from line 1 to 3. 4 and 5. Same as other sleeve, 6. From line 3 to 6 the fourth part as there is from line i to 3. 7. From line i to 7 the same as there is from line 3 to 6. X. Length of sleeve same as other. 8. i'/^ inches from point X to 8. 9. Width of bottom, i inch less than the fourth part of bust measure. Now draw your sleeve from point 6 to 8 with about % of an inch allowance, and 7 to 9 about i inch curve. Sleeve for jersey waist can also be cut plain with two seams. OUR SYSTEM OF SHIRT CUTTING. Each 3^ear has produced improved systems for cutting shirts, and every 3?ear there is a growing demand for shirt-cutters of talent, to whom large salaries are paid ; in fact, the shirt- cutter's pay rivals that of the tailor's, and as this demand increases for expert shirt-cutters, it is well for 3^oung men to give it their atten- tion. One of the simplest, most perfect, and reli- able shirt systems we have is one recently invented by Messrs. Dittmar & Sheifer, of the Tailors' and Cutters' Exchange, which possesses real merit. A gentleman, recognized as one of the best shirt-cutters in this country, after witnessing the swiftness with which it per- formed its duty, acknowledged that it surpassed anything in its line he had ever examined, and, to test its correctness, drafted a pattern by his method, which took exactly twice as much time as that occupied by us in drafting one by our system, and, upon laying these patterns upon each other, it was found, to the surprise of all present, that the}^ corresponded in every part ; in fact, so near alike were they that any person would have believed that one pattern was copied from the other. This business of shirt-cutting is assuming vast proportions, and an}^ one not familiar with the subject, and who has given the subject no thought, would be surprised to realize the extent of talent, capital, etc., invested. We are prepared to teach our system of shirt-cutting to any person desirous of learning, or we will sell drafts of it for self-instruction. 40 UITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 17. THE FULL VEST WITH BACK. Fig r. 18 to 19, Allow i"/ inches for seams. A. Forepart i;^ inches from central line. Draw 3^our forepart from this point and curve it in to the waist, touching on the central line. Now take out ^\ of an inch between forepart and back, on bust line, and 2 inches on waist line. Forepart and back darts to be taken out according to waist measure, by measuring the forepart from point to central line. Deduct the fourth part of waist measure and take out the balance on dart, making allowance for seams ; back is done the same way. Length of forepart in front is cut from 5 to 7 inches below waist according to taste and st3de ; side length, 2 inches below waist. THE PLAITED GARMENTS. Fig. 2. BOX AND PLAIN PLAITS, OR ANY OTHER PLAITS. B}^ this illustration you will see and admit the simplicity of cutting plaited garments. As a matter of fact, when a plaited garment is made up you wonder how complicated it must be to cut such a garment ; how much you should allow for this and that, box or plain plaits. But after you have the idea we give you will think different. In cutting a plaited garment take a piece of paper, make your plait on the paper to suit }^ourself, any style you prefer, then place 5^our pattern on the paper with the folded plait, as shown on diagram ; cut the same- out with the fold. Now spread your pattern apart (see fig. 4), this way you cut the cloth, not forgetting notches for plaits. Fig 3 and 4 represents a forepart with plain plaits. Fig. 3 when plaits is formed and pattern marked on it. Fig. 4 when the same is spread open. THE COMBINATION OF STYLE AND. COLORS. This is a subject of vital importance which is too often neglected by the cutters — that is, to make a study of the effect of the combina- tion of colors and their bearing upon the st3des of garments most becoming to the various cus- tomers. A lady who is short and thick requires a different character of garment from one who is tall and slender. While one color, or certain combinations of colors, will have a pleasing effect upon one, the same upon the other will have a contrar}^ effect. A short and stout woman will go to her tailor wanting a certain style of goods made into a certain st3de of garment. She wants it because she saw a suit similar m eveiy respect upon her well-shaped and tall friend, which was ver3^ becoming to her. The goods are pur- chased and the garments made, but the short customer is dissatisfied, and insists that the suit does not fit, and she is not at all pleased with its appearance. The cutter examines the suit, and is surprised at this adverse criticism — it does fit in every respect, and, as the points of its perfection are pointed out to the customer one b3^ one, and she is shown that the suit is fault- less, she reluctantly admits the force of the argument, but insists that it looks entirel3' different upon her from her well-proportioned friend, and wonders why the difference is so apparent and the garments so ill-becoming to her. Not once has the vast difference in the (continued on page 42.) 4- DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 18. THE POLERINA CAPE. — CUTTING A RUSSIAN CIRCULAR. Fig. r. This diagram represents the old fashion polerina cape. This garment which has been worn by our grand mothers and great grand mothers has been forgotten for a good many }^ears past. But this season of 1891 it comes back to us like a long lost child ; it is favorable in every respect and admired by all classes of people as a comfortable and fashionable gar- ment as a street costume for spring and sum- mer ; very easy to cut (if you know how), easy to make and noble in its appearance. All measurement required for the above is neck and length. Sa)^ 15 inches neck meas- ure, take a 36 size pattern and place on your back and forepart together with the shoulder seam, as shown on diagram, this is all it needs. Now mark 3"0ur cape, as shown on diagram, straight with back and forepart. Fig. THE RUSSIAN CIRCULAR. The top part of the circular is cut the same as the plain shoulder cape, given on Plate 8, page 22. Length of back according to measure on the straight line. Bottom of circular to be cut the full bust measure and allow the sixth part of the bust to it (for half of circular). Front is cut either by measure or 3 inches shorter than back. (concluded from page 40.) THE COMBINATION OF STYLES AND COLORS. shape and style of the customer impressed itself upon his mind. A little thought upon her part, or a few well-considered suggestions from the cutter upon this subject, would have convinced her of her error in ordering such shades of goods or styles of garments. But the customer alone is not to blame in the majority of cases, for the cutter, who stood silently b}^ and ac- quiesced in his selection, should be charged with blame for making up the garments v/ith- out offering a protest. Sorry am I to say it, but it is true that not every cutter is sufficiently educated on this important subject to offer ad- vice, and, through this culpable ignorance, neg- lects an important duty to the customer. A doctor who is ignorant in any important part of his profession would be denominated ' ' incom- petent. " A lawyer who had neglected to inform himself thoroughly upon the ethics of his pro- fession would be called "non-compos," and a cutter who so neglects this important part of his education will never attain eminence. He should so thoroughly study this subject that the moment he inspects a customer he should be able to decide without hesitation and cor- rectly not onl}^ the style of garment most becom- ing, but the style of goods and shade of color most desirable and suitable for his shape, size, style, and complexion. All these points are necessary to be comprehended and duly studied, and the cutter who studies them most compre- hensibl}^ and acquires a due appreciation of their bearing will prove the most successful, and, finally, attain eminence, distinction, and wealth. < LU O "CD 44 DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 19. CUTTING A PLAIN SKIRT FOR STREET OR DRESS COSTUME. Measurements re<]ttired for cutting a ladj^'s skirt are as follows : Waist, say Seat, ■■ Front length, say Back length, say 24. 45- 42. 45- DRAFTING, 1 and 2. Square line. A. The full waist measure from line i to A. B. The fourth part of waist measure from line 2 to B. C. Front length measure 42 inches. Ap- pl}^ 42 inches from point B. to C. D. The fourth part of seat measure from C to D. Square line up from point D and line I. E. The fourth part of waist measure from point B to E. F. In the centre between E and A. G. In the centre between E and F. H. Seat measure 45 inches. Apply 45 inches from point D to H. I. One inch less than the half of waist measure from point D to I. J. From H to J the same as from D to 1. K. In the centre between I and J. Now draw lines from points E, 1, G, K, and F and J. L. I inch above point A. M. Back length, 45 inches. Appl}^ 45 inches from point L to M. Now curve the bottom of skirt from point C to M, as shown on diagram. CUTTING THE MATERIAL. In cutting the material for skirt allow about i'/, inches on top of waist; cut the front piece in crease and make a V on top of waist in order to fit the stomach properly. Back piece is cut single. Side pieces ma}' be cut one opposite the other in order to cut the material to the best advantage. This can only be done if the material does not shade and there is no nap to the same. Narrow skirt can also be cut with one side piece. By doing so points A and H should be applied /s of the measure legs, and points G and K is let out. INSTRUCTION DEPARTMENT OF THE /leademy for Vqz f\r{ of QjttiQi^ OF THE TAILORS' AND GUTTERS' EXCHANGE, 758 BROADWAY. DITTMAR & SHEIFER, - - . . Directors. XERMS FOR INSTRUCTION. Terms for a complete course of Instruction in Ladies' Garments, includiug grading, to Practical Tailors, Furriers, or Dressmakers, . . . . . $100.00 toothers, . - - - - - - 150.00 for Grading all Ladies' Outside Garments, - - 50.00 for a comjJete course of Instruction in Gentlemen's Gar- ments, ...... 100.00 Practical Tailors, .-..-- 50.00 for Grading, ------ 50.00 to Cutters desiring to change their S5-stem, - - 50.00 to Cutters for Coat System alone, - - - 30.00 to Cutters for Pants System alone, - - - - 20.00 to Cutters for Vest System alone, - - - 15.00 for Instruction in measviring, drafting, or explaining points occupying from one hour to one day - $500 to 20.00 L.\DiEs' Undergarments. Terms for Cutters, for others. Gents' Shirts, Unoerg.vrments .\nd Over.-vlls. Terms for Cutters, ------ for others, ------ for Grading, ------ for Gentlemen's Dress .Shirts only, Tititioti must he paid in advance in all cases. g25.oo 50.00 $50,00 75.00 50.00 25.00 u IM at O) d (=^ d c w w. ;;.?. 46 DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Plate 20. THE DRESS WAIST. WITIinUT SEAMS, SUITABLE FOR SILK, CLOTH OR ANY OTHER MATERIAL. The cutting of a dress waist, wliicli is pre- sented on opposite diagram, is far superior to all others ; its shapes and curves for the human form cannot be equaled. As a laile by all dress- makers and ladies' tailors, this pattern is cut without seams, and by cutting the material, seams including, outlets are allowed. To do this, lining is perforated with a tracing wheel right on the lines of your draft than allow- ance is made. THE DRAFTING. 1 8, the half of bust measure, no allowance above. A. I inch below point 1 7, for neck shoul- der point. B. Forepart to be placed i'/ inches below line 3. If 3 side-bodies preferred take i inch below line 3, draw a line down for forepart. C. From the front of forepart to C, the third part as there is from line 3 to front of forepart. D. From C to D, i inch less as there is from front to C. E. Allow I inch from straight line. Now draw a line from point 18 down by point E. Shape your front as shown on diagram. Front darts to be taken out by measuring from point E to B. Deduct the fourth part of waist (6 inches) and take out balance of meas- ure of front darts. F. From line 3, >, of an inch for armhole. Cut the back for dress waist % of an inch below point 13, and from y^ to i inch wide on waistline; take out ly, inches from back to side. Side-bodies, if two or three to be divided ecjually, shoulder should be cut very narrow for waist, say 3'; inches. THE SLEEVE. Ficr. Draft your points same as given on Plate 4. Hollow the elbow 2 inches in front and about I '/ inches in back for upper-sleeve. Draw your under-sleeve in the centre of upper on elbow. Bottom of sleeve to be cut i inch less than the fourth part of bust measure. Notches should be placed on both upper and under, about 3 inches above and below elbow in order to bring the fullness of the elbow in its right position. Baggy, plaited, fancy or any other sleeve can be very easily put on the top of the plain lining, as the lining of sleeve must have its regular form to fit on the arm. A FEW WORDS TO THE GRADUATE. The principles of all ladies' garments are represented in this book. To produce other designs, such as plaiting on ornamental gar- ment, can easily be brought out (after i-eading and thoroughl}^ understanding this book) b}^ using your own judgment — of course, taste and ability is necessary. Should you misunderstand any of the in- structions, we shall take the pleasure of for- warding further explanations on application within six months after book is purchased. Yours Respectfull3% DITT^L\R & ShF.IFER. 48 DITTMAR & SHEIFER'S SELF-BALANCING SYSTEM. Page. Custom and Wholesale Department, (illustrated) 3 Preface 4 Its Simplicity 4 Its Reliability 4 Its Swiftness of E.xecution 4 Our System of Cutting 5 Tailors and Cutters E.xchange 6 The Power of Memory 6 The Dignity of Tailoring 7 A Word to Cutters and Tailors 7 The Measurements 8- Drafting the Outlines '. . . . 10 Drafting a Garment 12 Cutting out the Pattern 12 Importance after Cutting out 12 Drafting a Sleeve 14 Drafting the Collars 14 Special Notice 14 Drafting a Loose Front Garment 16 The Vest 16 The Beauty of a Garment 16 The Pecuniary Value of Taste 16 Drafting a Plush Garment 18 Drafting Bottom of a Sack or Newmarket 18 Special to Furriers 18 Our Success with Furriers 18 Drafting a Wrap 20 Drafting 20 The Japanese Sleeve 20 I p^JlJtj! Page. Cutting the Shoulder Capes 22 Drafting a High Shoulder Cape 22 Drafting a Circular 24 The Vest 24 Cutting the Skirt Garment 26 Ladies' Riding Trousers, the Measurements and Drafting 28 Drafting the Trousers 28 Drafting the Back Part 28 Ladies' Riding Habits 30 Full Measurements 30 Drafting the Skirt , 3°-3- Cutting a Newmarket from a Jacket or Other Short Garments 32 Drafting Side Body 32 Drafting the Forepart 32 Decoy Ducks 34 Cutting a Wrap from a Plain Jacket 34-36 Our favorable design for Seal Plush, etc 36 The Jersey Waist 38 The Full Vest with back 40 The Plaited Garments 40 The Combination of Style and Colors 40-42 The Polerina Cape — Cutting a Russian Circular-. ... 42 Cutting a Plain Skirt 44 Instruction Department of the Academy for the Art of Cutting 44 The Dress Waist 46 A Few Words to the Graduate 46 "^i- ■:##f &^^ 7M -.*rS0t(:i:'li^V^i LIDnMnT wr v^wiNuntoo ?