H MK ftw MM IP 111* He ww Sffi ilBw IiiiwfigflPi JIB ■■i-H HSU ■inn ■ '■«■■•■• TMWWMHHfflnrlOM II MTliiiMiiii lilriW _JBH ■UH nil IHIilr mil nmmi BBBBPOfflmflVrMlllJnggiit!! "" ;; ' : ■ IWnfBfflBflWBftliMllMlIl^ " H DUB ROM jniL. HH»1 HH HHHH Hi JBBBi ffl MTOM1WB HaS H Jai^ raRfi BftBlfflSB m BSffijfflMWa > ** \\ ; % <£ >%. <&- * « ... O ^ \ V ■ "V '* c- ^^ -1 **. "-> ■•" ■i ■ %%*'' O V * *H. > , o >" c . ^_ • ; c A ^ ,*" v* ^ ^ c^ N '> ^ A> .V> ^ - .* v ....-■ " £ : vV s s ' • C 1 V b 0, '> **. STATISTICAL SURVEY OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE, WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE MEANS OF IMPROVEMENT; PRAWN UP FOR THE CONSIDERATION, AND BY DIRECTION OF THE DUBLIN SOCIETY* BY HELY DUTTON, VEMBF.R OF THE FARMING SOCIETY OF IRELAND, AND AUTHOR OF OBSERVATIONS ON CAPTAIN ARCHER'* STATISTICAL SURVEY OF THE COUNTY OF DU'BLlN. Oh that mine adversary had written a book." — Job, ^©©eeso^- DUBLIN: PRINTED BY GRAISBERRY AND CAMPBELL, 10, BACK-LINE, POINTERS TO THE DUBLIN SOCIETY. -■- »**N\v=— ■ 1808. TO THE READER. This REPORT is at present printed and circulated for the purpose merely of procuring further infor- mation, respecting the state and husbandry of this district, and of enabling every one interested in the welfare of this country to examine it fully, and con- tribute his mite to its improvement. The Society do not deem themselves pledged to any opinion given by the Author of this Survey ; and they desire, that nothing contained in it be considered as their sentiments ; they have only published it, as the Report of the gentleman, whose name is affixed, and they publish it for the comments and observations of all persons, which they entreat to be given freely, and without reserve. It is therefore requested, that the observations on reading this work may be returned to the Dublin Society, as soon as may be convenient, and which will meet with the fullest attention in a future edition. •ot. ^ PREFACE. HAD I not considered myself bound to fulfil my promise to the Dublin Society, this Survey of the County of Clare would never have been published; that ungracious, illiberal silence, with regard both to the hundreds of letters I wrote, and to the reiterated verbal applications I made, (and which to the dis- grace of Ireland is complained of in almost every Survey, that has been published,) would otherwise have urged me, at an early period, to decline all further progress. Some, to whom I applied, (whose rank in life should have placed them above such gross ignorance,) asked me what a Survey was, what was it about, &c. and some very wittily wished to know, was it to take an account of all the pigs in a 2 Ennis iv PREFACE. Ennis or Killaloe, or the number of turf-kishes in the streets of Ennis, with a multitude of other remarks equally sagacious and liberal. With the most sanguine hopes of success I wrote and applied to many of the clergy, who from their local knowledge, liberal education, habit of putting their thoughts on paper, and great leisure, were, I fondly imagined, perfectly competent to give me the fullest information. The only written answers I received are de- tailed in the work ; I need not disgust the reader with a repetition. Had I the good fortune to have found the majority of the clergy as liberal as the Rey. Mr. Graham, curate of Kilrush, the Survey would make a very different appearance, and would be more free from those errors, which must, I deplore, be found in the work. Were I possessed of that useful confidence of the son of a celebrated agricultural author, who was in this county from England a few years since, I might possibly have gleaned more informa- tion ; but, as I found at an early period, that his queries were usually ridiculed, and his man- ner of stopping a person, whilst at dinner, until he PREFACE. v he took his notes, not at all relished, and that a preconcerted plan had been laid by some gentlemen to humbug him, it became necessary to use some caution in taking notes/ indeed on agricultural subjects very few notes would suffice, for they occu- pied the least of the conversation after dinner, and any questions to that effect were either evaded, or received so coolly that I generally desisted. To simplify the business as much as pos- sible, the queries are divided into fifty-two parts, and in such plain language, that the most ig- norant farmer in the county could comprehend them. I was weak enough to imagine that, when I produced my commission from the Dublin Society, I would have been favoured with half an hour's conversation, whilst I took notes of their answers, but this I found very few in- clined to do. To many eminent graziers I applied for information on the interesting subject of cattle, but I soon discovered I was not to expect much but praises of their own breed, accompanied with illiberal remarks (which they thought very witty) on the Farming Society of Ireland. vi PREFACE. • Ireland. They seemed to be totally ignorant of the distinctions between the different breeds of animals ; no discrimination, no knowledge of the value of green food, &c. &c. In short they could listen to nothing, or talk of nothing but their own breed (certainly a very good one) ; size, size, size, was every thing, and an encrease of that seemed to be the only desi- deratum. I am "perfectly convinced that, if a pair of long horns could be placed on the big head of a thick-limbed Holderness bull, he would be preferred to the Marquis of Sligo's Brown Jack. To the few following gentlemen, who inte- rested themselves, I feel every grateful sentiment; Sir Edward O'Brien, Boyle Vandeleur, Esq. Bindon Blood, Esq. Robert Crowe, Esq. of Nutfield, (not Mr. Crowe, agent to the Marquis of Thomond and the Earl of Egremont) Francis Owen, Esq. and Mr. Kenny of Newmarket. Mr. Crowe and Mr. Owen were so kind as to give me in writing much valuable infor- mation, and my readers have cause to join me in the regret, which I feel, that I had not the pleasure of knowing Mr. Crowe sooner. Se- veral PREFACE. vu veral other gentlemen I teazed into something like information, but as a horse-laugh fre- quently accompanied it, I considered it apo- cryphal. At a very early period Mr. Molony of Kiltannon, who formerly had undertaken the survey, promised to give me copious written answers to my queries, but after various pro- mises I found it was vox et -praeterea nihil. Such of the Roman Catholic clergy, as I ap- plied to, I found even anxious to procure me every information, and I feel a singular gra- tification in acknowledging the urbanity, with which the Rev. Mr. Barret, titular Dean of Killaloe, conveyed much valuable information. I have also great pleasure in stating the extreme readiness I found in the farmers and lower classes of society to give me in detail many things their landlords seemed to be to- tally ignorant of. I regret to have to remark, that with a few exceptions the gentlemen of this county, in common with too many of those of some other counties, neither know, nor seem to care much, how their cottier tenants live, so as they come to work, when they are wanted \ the occupation of their other hours is never viii PREFACE. never inquired after ; I found the men of this class infinitely more intelligent than those in a higher sphere. On perusing the suggestions for enquiry, published by the Dublin Society for the di- rection of those, who may undertake the Sur- veys of Ireland, it will be easily perceived, what a complicated and arduous task they have committed into their hands, and what an active co-operation of the inhabitants of the counties is necessary to enable them to convey such information, as will enable the Dublin Society to draw up a general statistical report of Ire- land. One would scarcely think it possible, yet so it is, that any person could be weak enough to imagine, that mere curiosity could prompt a Society, that have for upwards of sixty years devoted their attention so very happily to the advancement of agriculture and other useful sciences, to institute this inquiry/ When we advert to the many branches of science, that are embraced, including mineralogy, botany, political economy, that most difficult one agri- culture, a knowledge of cattle, &c. &c. so far from expecting any thing like perfection, we should PREFACE. ix should be surprized, if every Report was not much farther removed from it than they are, especially when it is known, that in almost every Survey, that has been published, com* plaints are made of withholding information, and of that most unpardonable, ungenfkmanlike insult of neglecting to acknowledge letters ; no rank in life v/arrants this meanness. Even in the last Survey, that has been published, that of the county of Kildare, though written by a gentleman, possessing from his high respecta- bility of character and fortune, as well as from his being treasurer of the county, and a con- stant resident, every influence, that should en- title him to attention to his letters, yet what are his words in the preface ? "He had hun- u dreds of letters printed and circulated, stating " the desires of the Society, and requesting " communications on the subjects committed to " him ; he has not to acknowledge the smallest " information" After this I can scarcely have a right to complain of the gross neglect, with which my applications have been treated; I trust and hope I shall not have the same complaint to make of the gentlemen of the b county x PREFACE. county of Gal way,, amongst whom I expect a continuance of that politeness and intelligence, which I have formerly experienced ; I have no fears on this head from the inhabitants of that county. Many may deem some of my strictures too severe, especially those on read-jobbing, and on tithes and the clergy. The enormity of the first is so great, that I would ill deserve the confidence the Dublin Society have ho- noured me with, if I declined the task, and I hope it wi}i be believed, when I profess it has been to me a most disagreeable one. If I have stated any thing erroneous on the other subjects, it must be" imputed to that ignorance, in which the silence of the clergy has left me. From those few worthy and truly revc- rend clergymen of this county, whose good opinion is worth obtaining, I have no fears for any thing I have written, and the anger of those, who could be influenced by the veto of a layman, ancl who preach that christian charity, which they do not practise, I heartily despise. I never can be brought to think (as too many of them seem to do) that a mono- tonous, PREPA& u tonoiis, cold-hearted sermon once a • week is the only duty they have to perform, or that it will ever make a protestant divine beloved or res- pected. I trust those, to whom I am known* will exonerate me from that infidelity, which has been generally imputed to those, who have dared to meddle with the clergy, however pro* fane. I hope it will be allowed, that a firm belief in the glorious truths of the gospel is not incompatible with a detestation of the vices of some of its professors. It has been urged by more than one, that I have not made personal applications. It un- fortunately often happened, that at a time I could have waited on many gentlemen they were far from home. Sometimes I have been informed, that they had a house-full of com- pany, and in a county possessing only three or four tolerable inns, and in remote situations not any, visits without a previous intimation were very hazardous. From some of these very complainants I received no answer to my letters to say, when they would be at home; in fact from what I have experienced I can b 2 consider consider these accusations in no other light than as an excuse fof indolence. Amongst many others I made a personal ap- plication to Mr. Young near Quin, explaining the nature of my pursuits (I was introduced to him twice before) and requesting informa- tion ; his only answer, after hesitating some time and a vacant stare, was humph ! and he very politely stepped into his coach box, and drove his family home from the church of Quin, where I had the misfortune to disturb his reveries. I have purposely avoided the description of gentlemen's seats ; I certainly could not, like the Post-chaise companion, see beauties in every petty place, that the partiality of their pro- prietors prompted them to do ; were I to de- scribe the very few places, that are really pretty,. I should throw so many into the back ground, that I thought it prudent to be silent. The riches of the county certainly have not been lavished on the ornament or improvement of demesnes j more has been done in the county ©f Galway in ten years than here for half a century. PREFACE. xm century. I beg leave to advise gentlemen, be'forc they begin to improve, to procure the very tasteful superintendance of Mr. Roach, and not pursue their own whims, which they dignify with the name of taste. On the fruitful subjects of irrigation and draining I was obliged to be concise ; their im- portance in this county, where they are scarcely known, is very great indeed; they would, if con- ducted with judgment and spirit, change the features of those dreary absentee tracts, that occupy so large a portion of the county, to 3miling harvests and verdant fields. Next to the improvement of the soil the mineral productions claim the marked attention of the proprietors ; those of the first necessity have been discovered in great abundance, such as coal, iron, lead, manganese, limestone, &c, but the puny attempts, that have been for- merly made by sinking a few feet, will never bring to light those treasures, that a bountiful providence has placed on the sea-shore; they must be confided to scientific hands, that will not be paralised by unsteadiness or parsimony in the employer. The xiv PliEFACE. The necessary limits to a work of this na- ture prevented me from saying more on the subject of planting ; had I indulged my wishes on this favourite and (in this county) neglected topic, a volume much larger than the whole Survey would not contain my ideas, especially when I reflected on its great importance to a county so completely denuded as Clare. It must be evident to the most superficial observer, that many other subjects, particularly those of green crops, ploughing, liming, im- provement of waste lands, &c. &c. in all which this county is miserably deficient, could not consistently with propriety be more enlarged; for, notwithstanding what has been already written by English agriculturists, the subject Is by no means exhausted. A gentleman of this county formerly ob- jected to my appointment to make the Survey, and called me the Arthur Young of Ireland. I feel myself so infinitely removed from any pretensions to the celebrity of that great and useful agriculturist, that, had it been intended as a compliment, I should have considered it too gross for acceptance ; but, as it was in tended \ PJREFACE. xt tended as a reproach, I feel proud in being joined with one, who has so ably detailed the abuses of middlemen, and their oppression of the lower classes of society ; on these topics I claim kindred with Mr. Young, to whom I owe much for making me think on many points in agriculture, that would otherwise have es- caped my attention, and, as Mr. Kirwan says 5 " to whose labours the world is more indebted for the diffusion of agricultural knowledge than to any writer, who has yet appeared." It is extraordinary, how little interest the gen- tlemen of this county, and indeed of every other in Ireland, take in any publication in- tended to promote the improvement of their country. I do not think there are three houses in the county, that have any of the Statis- tical Reports ; one would imagine, that even curiosity to see, what was doing in other counties, would prompt them to obtain them ; indeed, except Taplin's Farriery, Glasse's Cpolc- ery, and Maw's Calendar, I scarcely ever saw a book but in the houses of the few, who have seen the world y the generality are as igno- rant of the practices of the next county as they are xvi PREFACE. are of those of Russia. With the greatest diffi- culty the author of a Survey will sel- perhaps two or three hundred copies, whilst such ephe- meral productions as Cotchecutchoo, the Metro- polis, &c. shall run through several thousand copies and several editions ; so much more profitable is it for an author to amuse than instruct. A dancing master of eminence will receive three or four guineas per day, payed with pleasure, whilst an improver of land shall with a grudge be paid half- a- guinea. I was advised to try the pulse of the county by receiving subscriptions in Ennis; the experiment was tried en a fair day, when all the men of any property were assembled, and though a gentleman universally known and respected was so kind as to make personal applications, and the subscription book remained open for up- wards of three months, twenty-eight persons ! subscribed their names, and sixteen paid their subscriptions. SUGGESTIONS SUGGESTIONS OF INQUIRY FOR GENTLEMEN, WHO SHALL UNDERTAKE THE FORMING OF AGRICULTURAL SURVEYS. GEOGRAPHICAL STATE AND CIRCUMSTANCES, Situation and extent, Divisions, Climate, Soil and surface, Minerals. AGRICULTURE. Mode of culture, Extent of it, and of each species of grain sowed, Course of crops, Use of oxen — how harnessed, Nature and use of implements of husbandry, Markets for grain, Use of green food in winter. PASTURE. Nature of it, Breed of cattle — how far improved, c Breed xviii SUGGESTIONS Breed of cattle — how far capable of further improvement. Markets or fairs for them, General prices, Modes of feeding — how far housed in winter, Natural grasses, Artificial grasses, Mode of hay-making, Dairies — their produce, Prices of hides, tallow, wool, and quantity sold. FARMS. Their size, Farm houses and offices, Mode of repairing them, whether by landlord or tenant, Nature of tenures, General state of leases, ■ of particular clauses therein-, Taxes or cesses paid by tenants, Proportion of working horses or bullocks to the size of farms> General size of fields, or enclosures, Nature of fences, Mode of hedge-rows, and keeping hedges, Mode of draining, Nature of manures. GENERAL SUBJECTS. Population, Number and size of villages and towns, -Habitation^ OF INQUIRY. xix Habitation, fuel, food, and cloathing of the lower rank — their general cost, Prices of wages, labour, and provisions, State of tithe, its general amount on each article — what articles are exempt, and what charged by modus, Use of beerand spirits — whether eitheror which is increasing, State of roads, bridges, &c. of navigations and navigable rivers, » of fisheries, of education, schools, and charitable institutions, of absentee and resident proprietors, of circulation of money or paper, of forming or agricultural societies, of manufactures, whether increasing, of encouragement to them, and the peculiar aptness of the situation for their extension, « of mills of every kind, of plantations and planting, of the effects of the encouragemeut heretofore given to them by the Society, particularised in the list annexed, • of any improvements which may occur for further encouragement, and particularly for the preservation of the trees, when planted, of nurseries within the county and extent of sales, Price of timber, and state of it, in the county, Quantity of bog and waste ground, Possibility and means of improving it, Obstacles to it, and best means of removing them, Habits of industry, or want of industry, among the people, c. 2 The xx SUGGESTIONS, &c. The use of the English language, whether general, or how far increasing, Account of towers, castles, monasteries, ancient buildings, or places remukable for any historical event, Churches — resident clergy, glebes and glebe houses, Whether the county has v been actually surveyed, when and whether the survey is published, Weights and measures, liquid or dry — in what instances are weights assigned for measures — or vice versa. The weight or measure, by which grain, flour, potatoes, butter, &d. are sold. CONTENTS, CONTENTS. CHAP. I. GEOGRAPHICAL STATE AND CIRCUMSTANCES. Page Sect. 1. Situation and Extent . • 1 2. Divisions p • 2 3. Climate „ t ib. 4. Soil arid Surface ■. « • 6 5. Minerals , . • • 13 6. Water » * 22 CHAP. II. AGRICULTURE, Sect , 1, Mode of culture • 35 2. Course of crops i . 44 3. Use of Oxen, and how harnessed • 55 4. Nature and use of Implements of husbandry . 60 5. Markets for Grain . • 67 6. Use of green food in winter • 72 CHAP. III. "PASTURE. Sect. 1. Nature of it , . .76 2. Breed of Cattle— how far improved, and how far capable vf further im- provement . , . .85 Markets xxii CONTENTS. Page Markets or Fairs for them , . . 96 List of Fairs . . . .104 Sect. 3. General prices . . .107 4. Modes of feeding, and how far housed in xv inter . . . ,110 5. Natural grasses . . .115 6. Artificial grasses . -, .120 7. Mode of hay-making . .125 8. Dairies — their produce and manage- ment . . . .129 9. Prices of hides, tallow, wool, and quan- tity sold . '. . .132 % CHAP. IV. FARMS. Sect. l. Their size . . . .135 2. Farm-houses and Offices . .142 3. Nature of tenures, general state of teases, and particular clauses therein 145 4. Taxes or cesses paid by tenants . 1 48 5. Proportion of working horses and or en to the size of farms . ib. 6. General size of fields and inch sure s . 149 1. Nature offences . . .150 8.. M ode of draining . . .155 f. Nature of manures . . .156 CHAP. V. GENERAL SUBJECTS. SfiCT. I. Population . . . .167 . 2. Number and size of tozims and villages 1 69 Sect. contents: xxUi Page Sect. 3. Habitations, fuel, food, and clothing of the lower rank, and their general cost . . . .173 4. Prices of 'wages, labour, and provisions 181 5. State of Tithe — its general amount . 186 6. Use of beer or spirits, whether either or which is increasing . . 205 7. State of roads, bridges, &c. Kc. . 207 8. Navigations and navigable rivers . 220 9. State of fisheries . . . 227 10. of education — schools, and chari- table institutions . . .235 1 1 . of non-resident and resident pro- prietors .... 240 12. of circulation of money or paper 247 13. of farming or agricultural so- cieties . . ' , 248 14. f manufactures — whether en- creasing . . . .259 J 5. tf mills of every kind . .266 16". of plantations and planting . 26? 17. of the effects of encouragement heretofore given by the Dublin Soci- ety, particularised in the annexed list, and any improvement, which may occur for future encouragement, particularly for the preservation of trees when planted . . .277 18. of nurseries in the county, and extent of sales . . . 2SI 19. Price of timber, and state of it in the county , . . .283 Sect. xxiv CONTENTS. Pag« Sect. 20. Quantity of bog arid waste ground— the possibility and means of improv- ing them, and the obstacles to their improvement . . \ 286 21. Habits of industry, or want of it amongst the people . .298 22. Use of the English language, whether general, or how far encr easing . 302 23. Account of towers, castles, SCc. or places remarkable for any historical event . 304: 24. List of Parishes . . . 320 25. Abbeys .... 323 Ecclesiastical divisions of the Diocese ofKillaloe . . . .340 Resident Clergy . . .349 Pillar-stones, Kc. . .351 26. Whether the county has been actually surveyed? . . . .353 27. Weights and measures, liquid or dry ; in what instances are weights assigned for measures, or vice versa ? .355 28. Morals, manners, and customs of the people .... 358 29. Concluding Observations . .365 APPENDIX l STATISTICAL = = STATISTICAL SURVEY OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. — *»e9$@!»>ee«a- — CHAPTER I. Sect. 1. Situation and Extent, 1 HIS County was anciently called Thomond or Tuadmuin, that is North Munster. In the year 1565 it was made a county, and added to Con- naught, but was restored to Munster in the year 1602. It was also called O'Brien's country, from the numbers and influence of that family, which still continue, Sir Edward O'Brien being one of the representatives in parliament. At Ennis the Munster circuit commences. This county is al- most insulated, for the river Shannon bounds it on the east and south, the Atlantic ocean on the west, B stretching «^"^ Co. ^ m «0 i IIMB II C Scale of Irish. Miles 2 STATISTICAL SURVEY stretching from Cape Lean or Loop-bead to Black- head, and on the north t by the bay of Gal way ; it extends about 33 miles from N. to S. and about 52 from E. to W. Sect. 2. Divisions. This county contains about 476200 acres, or 744 square miles, of which 220144 acres are deemed profitable and pay cess. Since the period when the Down survey was taken, much land, that was then deemed unprofitable, and consequently not chargeable with any cess, has been since reclaimed, and still pays none, by which means many farmers pay more than their proportion. The baronies are Tullagh containing 57147 acres, — Bunratty 38357, — Inchiquin 29523, — Clounde- ralaw 24148,— -Ibrickan 13473,— Moyferta 18782,-— Islands 17311,— Corcomroe 16663^— Burrin 10040, — so that, if the Down survey was exact (which it probably was not,) 256056 acres either are waste or pay no cess. Sect. 3. Climate. The climate is in general remarkably healthful ; the strong gales from the Atlantic, though very unfriendly to planting, in so much that trees up- wards OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 3 wards of 50 miles from the sea have, if not sheltered, a lean to the east, yet seem to agree well with most constitutions.* Though the air is usually moist near the sea, the neighbouring inhabitants seem to feel no kind of inconvenience. Were the magistrates to do their duty in suppressing private distilleries, which abound in the county, and the proprietors of land or their agents to encourage domestic and personal cleanliness, there would not be a more healthful country in the world : there would be no com- plaint of those low fevers, which run through whole parishes, and destroy many, and which, I am informed by Doctor Hynes, proceed chiefly from want of cleanliness. When the proprietors of those extensive tracts of bog and mountain, which abound in the East and West part of the county, are sensible of their value, and when planting such parts, as are worth little for any other purpose, on an extensive scaie takes place, the climate will be less damp and consequently much warmer. b 2 I have * There are many instances of longevity j one Hagarty near Moy died lately at the age of 107, and preserved the use of his intellects to the last. A family of the name of Rumsey, at Kilrush, are re- markably long-lived— a few years since, a priest (Mr. M'Curtin) died at the age of iOO; he never had the tooth-ach, and got a new tooth at 98, never lost a toqth but the one, that was repJaced at this un- usual age, and enjoyed good health to the last. 4 STATISTICAL SURVEY I have not been able to obtain any meteorolo- gical observations on the weather, pursued for a series of years, by which any material change might be ascertained, but it seems to be the opi- nion of the old people, that it has been more subject to Atlantic storms than formerly ; this seems to be corroborated by finding the remains of trees of great length and thickness in situations, where it would be very difficult to make them grow at present, as they are generally thought to be Scotch fir, which is by no means that very hardy tree, that is imagined ; I suspect very much they are pine- aster, which will stand as single trees, where no other kind in the same situation can exist. I have made many inquiries from those, who have raised timber from bogs, and have been informed, that they have often found cones as large as their fists ; as it is well known, that the cones of Scotch fir are seldom above an inch long, and half as broad, we may fairly conclude they are either pine-astre or stone-pine. Some faint idea may be formed of the force, with which the waves of the sea are impelled by the western storms, when it is known, that cubes of limestone rock 10 or 12 feet in dia- meter are thrown up on ledges of rock several feet high near Doolen ; and at the same place may be seen a barrier of water-worn stones, some of them many tons weight, thrown up above twenty feet OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 5 feet high across a small bay, into which fisher- men used to land from their small boats, and where their former quay surrounded with huts remains many yards from the sea; this has occurred in the memory of many living at present. Where the coast is rocky, the sea is daily gain- ing on the land ; but, where fine sand forms the barrier, the land is encreasing.* Frost or snow is seldom of any long continuance ; when snow continues long, as it did this year, (1807) great losses are sustained on extensive sheep-walks, as few, if any, ever make any provision of hay, except for those sheep they intend to sell fat in the spring ; many sheep were found in good health after lying upwards of twenty days under the snow. There was a slight frost the llth and 12th of Sep- tember, 1807 ; the tops of the potatoes were a little injured, but slight early frosts are always a very fortunate circumstance ; they not only help to dry the ground and ripen the potatoes by stopping vegetation, but likewise give a fillip to indolence, that otherwise would leave potatoes undug until Christmas. Where wheat follows potatoes, the advantage is very great. Some * This effect is produced jn a very rapid degree at a small dis- tance beyond the Pigeon-; ious>-, and on the North Bull near, Dublin : in a few years they will be pastures, or at least rabbit- warrens, and, if a little pains were taken,, this effect might be accelerated. 6 STATISTICAL SURVEY Some of the finest myrtles I have any where seen, are in the open ground at Ralahine and Bunratty ; some are upwards of 18 feet high, and well fur- nished ; they are both broad and narrow leaved. Sect. 4. Soil and Surface. That part of Tullagh, which joins the county of Gal way, is mountainous and moory, in its pre- sent state of verj- little value, but might at a mo- derate expence be made very valuable by en- closing, draining, burning, and by lime, or marl, but chiefly by irrigation, which is, as far as I could learn, almost unknown in the barony. Bunratty > formerly belonging to the family of Macnamara, and called Dangin-I-vigin, touches the county of Galwaj at Tubber, and running through the centre of the county, sweeps, round the city of Limerick, and joins the river Shannon near the canal ; a large proportion is rocky, but not un- productive, for it grazes large flocks of sheep, pro- ducing very luxuriant herbage amongst the rocks. Inchiquin was formerly called Tullogh I'Dea, but in 1585 was granted by Queen Elizabeth to the Baron of Inchiquin, since which period it has been called Inchiquin. Tradition, which is often a lyar, says the barony takes its title from a small island in the lake of Inchiquin, that it anciently- belonged to a family of the Quins or Cuinns, and was OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. * was called Inriish O Quin or Quin's island, and that O Quin was starved to death in it. The eastern part is chiefly a flat, calcareous, rocky, and light soil ; the west is generally moory Mils, with some vallies of great fertility ; the part, that joins the barony of Corcomroe, is highly improvable, as limestone is very convenient, but at present under a most wretched system of mis- management. About Tully OVDea there is some excellent tillage ground, and t one little farmer sows velvet wheat. In this barony are situated the beautiful lakes of Inchiquin, and Tedano, and a chain of those of inferior note, that take a direc* tion, some towards Kilmacduagh in the county of Gal way, and others to Ennis ; they have all sub- terraneous communications. Clowider (daw joins the Shannon on the south, and the river Fergus on the east, and is very much encumbered with bog and moory mountain ; but, as lime could be easily brought in, it is highly improvable. Ibrickan stretches along the western coast, and includes Mutton-isknd. The southern part is al- most all bog, and the northern a mixture of very- improvable moory hills, ^ind clay soil, but under a most miserable system of deterioration* Moyferta (after refined to Moyerta) runs in a very acute angle to Loop-head, on which the light-house & situated, 9 STATISTICAL SURVEY situated, and is supplied with an ample share of bog and moory hills very improvable. The western part of the barony of Islands is chiefly composed of low moory mountain, but towards the east, as it approaches the town of Ennis and the river Fergus, it improves greatly, and contains a share of those rich grazing grounds, called Corcass, and partakes of the same soil as the adjoiningb arony of Bunratty, which it embraces near Ennis- Corcomroe, bounded on the west by the Atlantic ocean, is very much of the same qualify as the ad- joining baronies ; it consists of a fertile clay on whinstone rock, called here cold stone, to distinguish it from lime-stone, which is called hot soil; it wants only draining, liming, and a proper course of crop- ping to make those lands, that now pay only a few shillings per acre, worth from two to three guineas ; it is painful to see this so highly improvable barony under a system, that is neither profitable to landlord nor tenant, but alas ! the greater part belongs to absentees. Burrin signifies a distant part of a country; it was also formerly called Hy Loch Lean, or the district on the waters of the sea ; it likewise received from Ptolomy the appellation of Gangannii, a corruption of the void Cean-g an, Cean a head or promontory, and gan external, the people of the external pro^ montory, and of the same signification as Burrin. This OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 9 This barony is extremely rocky, but produces a short sweet herbage fit for sheep of middling size and short clothing wool, of which immense numbers are annually reared, and usually sold at the fair of Ballinasloe in October, and from thence drove into Leinster to be fattened at three years old ; a small part feeds store bullocks, and a much smaller fattens them for Limerick or Cork market. A person unacquainted with the nature of the soil, and judging hastily from appearances, would think the rocky parts of this county worth very little, and could scarcely be persuaded, that many acres are let so high as 3l. — sometimes more ; but still the greater part is let for low rents, often by the bulk, and not by the acre. The herbage, produced in those of the best quality, is of the most nutritive kind, and plentifully intermixed with varrow, white clover, trefoil, birds'-foot trefoil, and fattens a few black cattle and immense flocks of sheep, the mutton of which is amongst the best in Ireland, and of which the citizens of Dublin can have little idea, Especially since the introduction of Leicester sheep. Those parts, that are cultivated, produce abun- dant crops of potatoes, oats, wheat, barley, flax, &c. The cultivation of wheat, since the establish- ment of Messrs. Burton and Fitzgerald's flour-mill at Clifden, has enchased considerably, and begins to improve greatly in the quality, as they very laudably c take 10 STATISTICAL SURVEY take every pains to disseminate a superior kind to that usually cultivated. The soil of the mountainous part, comprehending all that, which, beginning at Doolan, takes a southern direction towards Loophead, and from thence along the Shannon to Kilrush, and v still further in the same direction, and that of the mountains of Slieu- boghta, which divide this county from Galway, is generally composed of moor or bog of different depths, from two inches to many feet, over a ferru- ginous or aluminous clay, or sandstone rock. In many situations lime could be procured on moderate terms, either by land, or by the Shannon j yet the farmers are either insensible of its value, or grudge the expence of carrying it, if the distance was only a mile. In some parts of the county of Wexford the farmers are so sensible of the improvements to be made by lime, that they frequently pay 3s. 6d. per ton, and draw it often twelve miles, sometimes much farther, and where turf to burn it is by no means in that plenty, or so convenient as here. A considerable part of the surface is occupied by bogs, particularly in the baronies of Moyferta and Jbrickan, beginning near Kilrush, and running to- wards Dunbeg, a distance of nearly five miles, and ill most as many broad ; and a great part of the moun- tains, except the limestone ones of Burrin, are. gavered with the same valuable substance. It is a very OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 11 very peculiar circumstance, that those large tracts of rocky country, which must be always under sheep or cattle, and require but a very limited population, have but a scanty supply of this fuel. In many parts of the barony, especially on the coast, the inhabitants are obliged to procure it from the opposite shore of Cunnamara by boats. For a considerable breadth on either side of the point of partition between the calcareous and schis- tose regions, the soils gradually melt into each other, and form some of the best ground iri the county; for instance, Lemenagh, Shally, Applevale, Riverston, &c. &c. A fine vein of ground runs from Killnoney to Tomgraney, about a mile in breadth ; it lets for 3/. to three guineas per acre. But the pride of the county are those rich low grounds running along the rivers Fergus and Shan- non, called Carcass ; they are of various breadths, indenting the land in a great variety of shapes. That part called Tradree, or Tradruihe, (Terre de roi,) the land of the king, (tradition says it was the private patrimony of Brian Boromhe), is prover- bially rich ; there are black and blue corcasses,* so C 2 called cast! of h * Mr. D'Esterre possesses 500 acres of blue corcass near Bunratt j tie ; it in general lets for seven guineas and a half per acre : six tons ay per acre not reckoned extraordinary, but sometimes eight iorj$ aj$ produced, though mowed usually ju the middle of July. 12 STATISTICAL SURVEY called from the nature of the substratum ; the black is most esteemed for tillage, not retaining the vet so long as the blue, which consists of a tenacious clay, and retains water ; this is reckoned best for meadow. Some of the corcasses do not retain the grjass well in winter. The»e lands might be flooded from the Shannon and Fergus with great advantage ; but, as the consent of so many would be necessary, those only, whose lands are contiguous to the rivers, could avail themselves of a practice, that has been followed with great success in England, and is called silting or warping. Many think the corcasses are of immense depth, but, in digging for the foundation of Bunrattj r bridge, limestone-gravel was found at about ten feet below the surface. The upland about Butiratty is of excellent quality, and beautifully shaped, of which Mr. Studdert has taken advantage, and is building a handsome house in a charming situation. Mr. James Lysaght has favoured me with a state- ment of extraordinary fertility. In a turlogh near Kilfenora (I forget the name,) he fattened, in one year, on 48 acres, 42 large oxen, 44 sheep, and fed also 17 horses, and a great number of pigs; the fol- lowing year he sold off it in fine condition (as his cattle always are) one hundred two-years old bul- locks, and sixteen or seventeen horses. The soil in the neighbourhood of Quin abbey is OF THE COUNTY OF CLARfc. 13 is a light limestone, and lets at from 30.?. to two guineas per acre. There is a large tract of fine tillage ground, and a charming country, where the parishes of Quin, CJonlea, and Kilmurry unite, and for many miles on every side. Sect. 5. Minerals. T#e annexed list, taken from the Dublin Society** museum, will shew that this country is by no means deficient in mineral productions. I discovered very ticb lead ore on Mr. Scott's estate near Glendree, and on Mr. Colpoys's estate near Tullagh. I have seen a specimen of lead ore, belonging to a gentleman, who did not wish his name to be mentioned, which, has been assayed in London, and contains in 36 cwt. 25 j cwt. lead, 5G^ oz. silver, and l^ oz. gold, and lies near the surface. Strong indications of iron are very frequent in many parts of the county, but, until coal is raised in sufficient quantity, it is. of no value. Coal has been found in many places, but little or no exertions made to pursue it with any beneficial effect. Some years since two boats, were freighted with coal raised near Innistympn.;- one was sent to Limerick, and the other to Gal way ; they were both condemned, as very bad coal, because one of the partners insisted on mixing the coal smut along 14 STATISTICAL SURVEY along with the good coal ; thus ignorance and avarice met their just reward, and, instead of a profitable undertaking, dissolved a partnership, that, if con- ducted with skill and honesty, would have enriched the country and themselves. A few years since an attempt was made by Mr. Burton, near Clifden, aided by some English miners, to raise coal ; after sinking upwards of fifty feet, a thin stratum of coal was discovered ; but the shaft filled so fast with water, that the miners, from want of machinery to clear it, were obliged to desist until some future period. Detached limestone rocks of considerable magnitude frequently occur in the grit soils, and, though surrounded by bog, where their value would be inestimable, and could be obtained at a very moderate expence, they are seldom used. Large blocks of limestone have been lately discovered in Liscanor bay, seven or eight miles from the limestone country, and burned for lime ; also in a bank, near the harbour of Liscanor, water-worn pebbles are found and burned. The shore of Lough Graney produces a sand chiefly composed of crystals, which is used for making scythe boards, greatly superior to those brought from England ; the country people come for it upwards of twenty miles. Sand of the same quality is also procured from Lough Coutra, the estate of Prendergast Smyth, Esq. in the same cjiain of mountains. Yery OF THE COUNTY OF CLARF. U Very fine flags are raised on the estate of Mr. Cooper, a few miles from Kilrush ; they are easily quarried, and procured in masses of consi- derable dimensions. They are curiously connected by serpentine insertions between the layers. The foot-path of Miltown is beginning to be flagged with them, for which purpose they are well adapted, as well from their durability, as from the feet not slipping on them as on limestone, which makes a very dangerous pavement or flagging. Near Innis- tymon thin flags are raised, which are used for many miles round for covering houses ; they dp not in general split into laminae thin enough, therefore require strong timbers in the roof ; they are sold for 6s. to 11 s. per ton, laid down at your house, if within three. or four miles distance. The Ballagh slates are preferred, as they are thinner than most others. A ton will slate about a square or 100 feet; and for laying them on the house, at 8s. 1 \d. per square, slaters, if employed by the day, generally get 2s. S\d. and diet. There is another sandstone quarry near Kilrush, one near Glenomera, and several of this kind of stone in the western part of the county. Broadford slates have long been celebrated, and are nearly equal to the best Welsh slates; they cost at the quarry 2.1. 5s. 6d. per ton, >vhich will cover nearly three squares ; a smaller kind are sold for \l. 6s, and will cover about l^ square. As 16 STATISTICAL SURVEY As the communication by the Shannon is now opened to Dublin, little doubt can be entertained that they will supply that city to the exclusion of Welsh slates. Killaloe slates are reckoned rather better than Broad- ford: they sell for, whole and half ton, 2l. 5s. 6d. per ton ; quarter ton 5s. per hundred ; small slates 135. per thousand: the quarry-men have half the profit for raising them, the other half is received by the proprietor, Mr. Henry of Straffon. All the quarries seem to be badly worked ; they do little more than skim the surface, though doubtless the hardest and best slates are at greater depths than they can attain without the assistance of machi- nery. This one of Killaloe is worked to a greater depth than the Broadford quarries. Very fine black marble has been raised at Cragg- liath near Ennis ; it takes a very high polish, and is, if well chosen, free from those large white spots, that disfigure some of the Kilkenny marble. Copper pyrites occurs in several parts of Burrin ; I have found it near Doolen; and I am informed that, some years since, Mr. Annesley, who possesses an estate in Glenvaan, barony of Burrin, attempted to raise copper ore ; but, after bringing over miners from England at a considerable expence, whether from their unfavourable reports, or what other cause I know not, the further progress was abandoned. The chain of calcareous hills, that run from near Corrofin, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 17 Corrofin, present a very curious assemblage to the traveller's eye ; they are generally insulated, flat on the summit, descending and encreasing in amphitheatrical ledges to the intervening vallies ; some of them bear a very near resemblance to the view of the Herefordshire beacon, given as the frontispiece to the 1st vol. of Mr. King's Munimenta Antiqua.* List of Minerals, discovered by Mr. Donald Stewart, and others, in the County of Clare, and of which specimens have been deposited in the Museum of the Dublin Society. LEAD ORE. 1. Rich lead ore, from a remarkable large course of fine white calcareous crystal spaif, forty j T ards wide, between the grey limestone rocks on the estate of Anthony Colpoys, Esq. near Tulla. 2. Lead ore, found on the lands of Class, the estate of Henry O'Brien, Esq. in hard grey rock, that strikes fire with steel. 3. Lead ore, found in grey limestone rock, in the deer-park of Lemenagh, the estate of Sir Edward O'Brien. It has also been discovered in various d other * These hills are not well delineated in the map of the county, published by JNlr. Pelham. 18 STATISTICAL SURVEY other parts of the same estate, sometimes coated with yellow crystal pyrites. 4. Lead ore, from Glenvaan, in the barony of Burrin, the estate of Mr. Annesley ; also some specimens of green and blue lead ore : a large course runs into the great limestone mountains of Burrin. 5. Lead ore, from a regular vein on the summit of the limestone mountain, on the north-west side of the large deer-park of Lemenagh, the estate of Francis M^Namara, Esq. 6. Lead ore, from Glendree, the estate of John Scott, Esq. near Feacle. IRON ORE. 7. Heavy blackish iron-stone, from Class, near Spansel hill ; it strikes fire with steel. 8. Heavy blackish iron-stone, from a large course of spar and ochre, near the edge of the river Ardsallas, on the north side of the demesne of Sir Edward O'Brien. 9. Black heavy iron ore, from Goat-island, on the Malbay coast, the estate of Lord Milton. 10. Rich black ochrish iron ore, in a large flat on the top of the cliff opposite to Goat-island ; near this is a regular stratum of coal-slate, six feet thick, the estate of Lord Milton. 11. Red OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 19 11. Red iron ore, from the same place, near Cross. 12. Very compact reddish iron ore, from the rub- bish, where the late Sir Lucius O'Brien made a trial for coal, near the road between Corrofin and Ennis. 13. Heavy reddish iron ore, from the shore of Liscanor bay, near the place, in which coal has been found. 14. A ball of iron-stone, from near Pooldagh or the Bullock's pool, on the estate of Lord Milton, near Cross, on the Malbay coast. MANGANESE, 15. From the spa- well of Fierd, on the sea- shore near Cross, the estate of Mr. Westby. Specimens of this . were sent to Mr. Roe, at Ringsend, and others, who said it was more free from iron, and better than any they had seen before, and very fit for making the bleaching liquid. It is formed by the water on the rocks. 16. Heavy porous iron manganese, from Kil- credane point, near Carrigaholt castle, the estate of Lord Conyngham. 17. Manganese, from near Newhall, the estate of the late Charles Macdonnel, Esq. 1$. Manganese, from a large body of it, on the p % edge 20 STATISTICAL SURVEY edge of a bog near Innistymon river, and not far from that village, the estate of Edward O'Brien, Esq. COAL. 19. In several parts of Mount Callan, on the estates, of the £arl of Egremont, Lord Conyng- ham, and the Bishop of Killaloe. Beds of iron- stone have been also found here. 30. Coal, from a stratum twelve inches thick, near Loughill ferry ; on the opposite side of the Shannon, in the county of Limerick, the same stratum is only nine inches thick. Coal smut from the cliffs, on the west of Cloghansevan castle. In a hi^h cliff near this a large seam appears like coal, the estate of Mr. Westby, near Cross. 21. Coal, from Liscanor bay, near Innistymon, in the face of the rock a little above high-water mark ; the seam is three feet thick ; the estate of Edward Fitzgerald, Esq. 22. Coal, on the shore of Malbay, within high- water mark, near Mutton island, the estate of Lord Conyngham. 23. Coal, from a thin seam, in a stream, that divides the estates of Lord Milton and the late Lord Clare, near the sea-shore, to the west of Carrigaholt OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 21 Carrigaholt castle, where also are strong indica- tions of coal. 24. Coal smut, from the remarkable cliff, where "water falls upon the rock, and has formed a great body of yellow ochre, near the mountain of Le** maduff or the Bullock's leap, the estate of Lord Milton. 25. Coal, from a stratum four inches thick, about midway between the base and summit of Mount Callan, the estate of Lord Conyngham. 26. Shining, blackish, oehrish coal slate, from a seam three feet thick, near the surface of the ground, on the sea-shore, about two miles east of Mutton island, the estate of George Stack- poole, Esq. of Edenvale. 27. Coal, from a seam of it at Fieragh or Foraty bay, the estate of William Stackpoole, Esq. LIMESTONE. \ It is mentioned only in those places, where its scarcity and great value as a manure make it worthy of notice. 28. Reddish limestone, in Glenomera, barony of Tulla, on the estates of Sir Hugh Massey and Mr. Arthur. 29. Glimmery black limestone, near Six-mile-^ bridge. Black limestone, with the impressions of shells 22 STATISTICAL SURVEY shells on it, in the bed of the river, that divides the counties of Clare and Galway, in Slieve-an- oir mountain. 30. Black limestone, from large stones found •within the tide-water mark, on the shore of the river Shannon, about two miles north of Carrig- aholt castle, the estate of the late Charles Mac- donnel, Esq. 31. Slaty black limestone, from Slieve-an-oir river, near the bleach-green j it was traced from Lough Teorig, on the mountain, to Lough Graney, a distance of upwards of four miles. Also valuable ochres, clays for potteries, anti- mony, and beautiful fluor spar, &c. have been discovered ; besides copper ore in several places, one mine of which in Burrin was formerly worked. Sect. 6. Water. The river Shannon, after almost dividing Ire- land from North to South, and dispensing its bounties to the adjoining counties of Roscommon, Leitrim, Longford, Westmeath, Galway, King's County, Kerry, Tipperary, and Limerick, enters the Atlantic ocean between this county and Kerry, where it is about five miles broad, and seems intended by Providence to carry the produce of Ireland, to supply the wants of our neighbours, through OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 2% through this channel. Of this the merchants of Limerick have availed themselves, and annually export immense quantities of corn and many other articles, besides the vast droves of fat cattle, with which they have long continued to feed the English navy. If capital was not wanting, Kilrush would long since have had a very large share of these advan- tages; and, as Mr. Vandeleur must be sensible of the great benefit of a flourishing town to his ad- joining estate, no doubt can be entertained, that liberal encouragement will be held out to improving tenants. When the time lost in working up and down the Shannon, (a distance of 120 miles,) and the expence of shipping and reshipping, (for it will scarcely be believed, that many articles are sent up the Shannon from Kilrush to Limerick, and there shipped,) are considered, it must point out Kilrush as a most favourable situation for trade, and must eventually contribute to the benefit of apart of the county, that is the least improved, and the most improvable in the county. The numerous bays and creeks on both sides of this noble river render it perfectly safe in every wind; but, when the wind blows from certain points, the passage to and from Limerick is fre- quently tedious, and occupies more time than might be employed in loading a vessel at Kilrush, in U STATISTICAL SURVEY in so much that I have been informed instances have occurred, when a vessel loading at Kilrush, whilst another was passing by for Limerick, has delivered her cargo in England, and returned, before the other vessel had cleared out of the Shannon. From Blackhead to Loophead, including the whole western boundary of the county, and measuring upwards of forty miles, there is no safe haibour for a vessel, except Liscanor bay, and this, for want of a pier extending to deep water, is useless for those of any burthen. A pier has been built, or rather jobbed, some years since ; but, for the reason I have just mentioned, it is of use only to fishing vessels and smugglers. From want of a sufficient body of water to clear the harbour of the gravel thrown in by the tide, it is rendered still more useless. For preventing this accumulation of gravel, some progress was made in augmenting a small stream of water, which runs into the harbour, but, after jobbing a considerable sum of money to no purpose, it has been abandoned. Some gentlemen of spirit have now taken up the business; and, as there can be little doubt of the liberal contri- bution of the proprietor, Colonel Fitzgerald, in aid of a sum, which Parliament, when informed of the number of lives it will save, will certainly grant, this port may be made highly useful. * Dunbeg OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 25 Dunbeg bay, on aceount of rocks in the entrance, is unsafe for vessels of any size. x\ pier at Glanina, in the barony of Burrin, would be of infinite use, as vessels, that cannot make the harbour of Gal way, would here find safety, if they had a pier, and are at present in a most dan- gerous situation. The river Fergus, the most considerable next to the Shannon, takes its rise in the barony of Cor- comroe; and, after running through the lakes of Inchiquin, (containing three hundred acres,) Te- dane, Dromore, Ballyally, and several others, and receiving the waters of several smaller streams, pursues its course through the town of Ennis, where it is augmented by the river Clareen, and, after forming a considerable and beautiful estuary, full of picturesque islands, unites with the Shannon at about ten miles distance. It is navigable for vessels of two hundred tons burden to Clare, a distance of about eight miles, and for small craft to Ennis. In spring tides the depth is about six- teen feet, and in neap tides about nine feet ; at ebb, a considerable rich muddy strand is left bare, many parts of which might be added to those rich meadows and grazing grounds called corcasses. It receives many mountain streams, and after heavy rains rises so considerably and rapidly, that large tracts of low meadows are frequently overflowed, E and 26 STATISTICAL SURVEY and immense quantities of hay destroyed, belonging to those indolent farmers, who, though they have been annually punished for this neglect, still persist, and who, I am confident, if a proposal was made to carry off the water, would grudge a small sum to effect it, and shift it on the shoulders of their neighbours. Those pests of the country, eel-weirs, also contribute to throw back water on the land ; an eel-weir at the bridge of Ardruan, near the old church of Kiltullogb, throws back water on many acres ; the river Fergus, though here upwards of sixty feet broad, is narrowed by this petty weir to eight feet. It is extraordinary, that some of our enlightened legislators do not bring in a bill to abate this very great nuisance ; except grist and tuck mills, there cannot be a greater ; and I am perfectly convinced that, taken in the aggre- gate of Ireland, the proprietors of land, especially on rivers of moderate descent, are injured in their property to the annual amount of many millions of money. It is certainly in the power of grand juries to remove those, that have been lately erected. A very moderate sum would lower the obstructions on the river Fergus ; but, however willing some individuals may be, it is almost impossible to procure a 'general consent of the proprietors, and it would be too expensive to obtain an act of Parliament for OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 27 for this purpose ; the expence would be more than would remove all the obstructions. The grand jury, if they have the power, ought to interfere, and present money for it ; and, though their funds probably would not be able to meet the expen- diture at once, it might be gradually effected: the salaries, that are now paid to conservators, who are worse than useless, would soon accomplish this and many other useful plans. It probably may be thought, that the individuals, who are injured, fchould expend the money for this purpose ; so they certainly ought, and it is a strange neglect in our legislators, that there is not a bill brought in for the purpose of compelling a general drainage, without the expence of a separate act for every thing however trifling ; yet, as the com- munity are always benefited by the prosperity of individuals, it would be wise to effect this im- provement and many others from the public purse, and would be infinitely more useful than many mountain jobs of roads, that end perhaps in the undertaker's bog. Lough Terroig is situated on the top of the mountain of Slieuboghta, in the barony of Tullagh, and divides the county of Galway from this. A stream from it runs into the beautiful Lough Graney, or Lake of the Sun, and, after a serpentine course of four miles, collects the waters, that several rivulets E 2 thro\r 2$ STATISTICAL SURVEY throw into Annahw, Lough, and Lough O* Grady ^ and at about two miles distance falls into the Shan- non in the picturesque Skarriff bay. The river Ougarnee, beginning near Lough Breedy, communicates its waters with Lough Doon, in the barony of Tullagh, after a short run meets that from Lough Cloonlea to the north of Woodfield, and, continuing its course for about three miles, forms a small lake near Mountcashel; from thence, after watering Six-mile-bridge, and turning several miles, it falls into the Shannon near Bunratty -castle, and opposite to the river Maige, in the county of Limerick, about seven miles from that city. The tide flows up to the old oil-mill at Six-mile-bridge. Ardsallas river rises in the barony of Bun- ratty ; in its course it receives a considerable addi- tion from a river rising in the barony of Tullagh, and unites with the Fergus about six miles from the Shannon.* The source of the Blackwater is likewise in the barony of Tullagh ; it runs but a short distance, before it falls into the Shannon near Limerick. Clareen river rises in the barony of Islands, and, after a very devious course of six or seven miles, joins the Fergus a little to the north of Ennis. Many hundred acres could be irrigated by this stream ; it is abundant, and falls rapidly. A con- * Sir Edward O'Brien is irrigating a considerable tract of groir>d from this abundant stream. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 29 A considerable stream rises in Mount Callan ; its course is, upwards of sixteen miles, nearly parallel to the coast ; it forms Lough Dulogh, receives several other smaller streams, and disembogues itself into the Atlantic at Dunbeg. Several streams from the barony of Islands con- tribute to form a river, that falls into the Shannon at Clounderalaw bay. Innistymon river forms for about two miles a boundary between the baronies of Ibrickan and Islands, and, running across the barony of Inchiquin, constitutes the division between that barony and Corcomroe, running for nearly sixteen miles, and, receiving the addition of several smaller streams, falls in its passage over a very large ledge of rocks at Innistymon, and thence into Liscanor bay, form- ing at high water a very dangerous passage for horses and carriages between Lehinch and Liscanor. There are numberless small streams in almost every part of this county, except in the barony of Burrin, which is but scantily supplied. It is no easy matter to ascertain the names of many rivers, as they generally take their names from those of any town or remarkable place they pass through. The river Boagh or Bow rises in the mountains, that divide Galway from this county, and also forms the division of these counties in its course to the Shannon, almost opposite to Holy-island. The 50 STATISTICAL SURVEY The lakes are very numerous, amounting to upwards of one hundred with names ; many are small, but some are large, as Lough Grane}^, Lough O'Grady, Lough Tedane, and Inchiquin. Mineral waters are found in many places, they are chiefly chalybeate ; that at Lisdounvarna has been long celebrated for its virtues, particularly in obstructions, and some find it beneficial after a "winter's drinking of bad whiskey from private stills ; k is strongly ferruginous, and of an astringent taste, and strong smell, but not fetid. This water would be much resorted to, if accommodations for drinkers could be had ; but the health of those, who go there, is probably more injured by damp dirty lodgings in cabbins, than benefited by the use of the water.* This spa possesses an advantage not often met with at such places ; it is contiguous to the sea, and gives an option of sea-bathing, as health or pleasure dictate, and the roads are in very tolerable repair. At Scoolj in the barony of Inchiquin, another chalybeate has been drank with great success by several afflicted with obstructions. Another chaly- beate breaks up in the road near Cloneen, about a mile north-west of the castle of Lemenagh. Kilkissken spa has been handsomely enclosed, and has * Leases of sufficient length for building, owing to a minority, cannot at present be obtained. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 31 has effected many cures. There is another cha- lybeate spa at Cassino, near Miltown Malbay. Many holy wells are to be seen in different parts of the county.* That near Toomgraney, in the barony of Tullagh, called St. CoolerHs, is remarkable for the purity of its water, and for the remains pf an oak tree, that measures upwards of sixteen feet in circumference four feet from the ground. At St. Giaaran's well, near Ennis, there are the remains of a very large ash tree. I do not recollect any thing remarkable of the other wells but the good- ness of the water ; the saints of ancient days were certainly good judges of water and land; indeed the county abounds with good springs, surely a much wholesomer beverage than the vile malt liquor usually brewed at the present day, even in London ; the name should be changed, for it is a compound of every thing but malt and hops. Turloghs, called in other places Loghans. are frequent in this county ; they are accumulations of water, either forced under ground from a higher level, or surface-water from higher grounds, that have no outlet, and must remain until evaporated in sum- mer. There is a very large one at Turloghmore, two near Kilfenora, and more in other places. Although the water remains on them usually for several months, yet, * These wells are little regarded, but by the most ignorant peo- jrte, and this Scythian custom will soon vanish. 32 STATISTICAL SURVEY yet, on the subsiding of it, fine grass springs up, and supports large herds of cattle and flocks of sheep. These turloghs abound also in the county of Gal way, and could be drained in general with great ease, and at a moderate expence I have offered to contract for the drainage of several ; but there were such various interests to reconcile, and such an unaccountable indolence in the gentlemen concerned, that I have always retired with dfcgust. CHAP. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 33 CHAP. II. AGRICULTURE. Sect. 1. Mode of Culture. FORMERLY the preparation for wheat was always a fallow, except near the sea-coast, where the abundance of sea-weed or sea-sand ren- dered it unnecessary. In some places this waste- ful practice still continues ; but the great exten- sion of the potatoe culture, and a happy rise in rents, have in some measure assisted the abolition. The example of some, but very few, spirited gen- tlemen, who cultivate potatoes, clover, vetches, rape, turnips, and other green crops for cattle, will doubtless have every good effect, in shewing the farmers the heavy losses they sustain by un- productive fallows. Very small farmers and cot- tiers scarcely ever fallow their ground ; the usual preparation with them is potatoes manured for, and not unfrequently planted in drills ; they are generally succeeded by oats, and too often by several crops of this grain, without the intervention F of fg STATISTICAL SURVEY of any green ameliorating crop, until the ground will scarcely return the seed they had sowed. Fre- quently the course is; 1st, potatoes with manure, or the ground burned; 2d, wheat, sometimes sowed in winter, but oftener in spring ; 3d, oats, and then begin the course with manure again, but too often they continue the cultivation of oats. In many parts of the county, chiefly the eastern- and western extremities, where the soil in its pre- sent unimproved state is not adapted to wheat, oats is a very general crop, and frequently after manured potatoes, and the cultivation of this grain is continued, until the ground is completely exhausted - T in this state it remains for several years, producing little herbage, and of very bad quality, until it has produced a sufficient covering to enable them to burn it again, and the same wretched course is pursued, whilst the agent (perhaps some young lawyer or attorney, totally ignorant of country af- fairs)* permits his absentee landlord to suffer thus in his receipts; for, at the end of almost every lease, the ground comes into his hands in this impove- rished state, and it is by no means uncommon to burn ground four times during a lease of thirty- one years. Every * Mr. M'Evoy, in bis Survey of the County of Tyrone, seems to be r.f the same opinion : he says, p. 193, "Agents not acquainted with country business may be considered a great bar to improvement; the improvement of land depends very much on the activity and knowledge of agents.'* OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. Every cottier is perfectly sensible of the great value of manure, and great exertions are every where made to collect it, insomuch that the roads are frequently injured to a great extent : turf-mould spread about their doors, and every hole filled with it during winter, forms a very large share of their manure for potatoes ; the usual mode of planting them is, with few exceptions, in beds of about six feet wide, with a trench two or three feet wide, according to the depth of soil ; in very shallow soils they are often made much wider, in good soils not more than eighteen inches. Sometimes moory or boggy ground is burned for this inestimable root, and generally two crops taken ; they are almost always succeeded by oats, rape, or flax. Sometimes barley succeeds potatoes; it is used chiefly in the private stills, which abound in every part of the county, even under the very nose of the magistrates ; and some people are impudent enough to say, that they are so used to the smell of putteen whiskey, they do not perceive the stills ; and others are still more impudent, who say, that some magistrates keep stills in their concerns. After barley, oats are taken as long as the ground will produce any thing ; it is then left to nature for several years, until she, kind nurse, produces as much herbage roots as will enable the repetition of this barbarous system F 2 of 56 STATISTICAL SURVEY of tillage, especially if the lease is near its expiration. The value of potatoes is so universally known, that few farmers have less than from one to four acres of them, some ten or more. In some parts of the county^ the ground is manured, and formed into a ridge in the usual way, and the potatoes planted with a long dibble,* that a man thrusts into the ground with his foot, followed by a child or woman, who drops a potatoe into the hole; sometimes the potatoes are dropped at the usual distance on the surface, and put into the hole by the man, who dibbles. Frequently, after manuring the ridges, or the second year after burning, a man makes a deep cut with a spade, which he throws forward, at the same time making an open cut to receive the potatoe set, that he has ready in his hand, from a stock usually carried in an apron before him ; on drawing out the spade, the cut closes on. the set. After both of these methods, the potatoes are second-spitted or shovelled in the usual way ; but they are erroneous practices, because the ground is seldom or ever stirred since the previous crop, and it would be less tedious to lay the potatoe-sets at once before planting ; yet to a poor cottier it is convenient, for the operations of manuring and throwing up the ridges are performed at a season of more leisure, in winter or too early in spring to plant potatoes with * This in some coucties is called a steeveen. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 37 with safety, and when his own or his landlord's hurry of bnsiness has not yet commenced. There are always abundant crops of potatoes after a dry spring, as the burning of land (on which nine-tenths of the potatoes of the county are planted) is facilitated, and seldom fails to produce a plentiful return. If a total abolition of this practice was to take place, as some people totally ignorant of rural economy seem to wish, a famine would be the consequence : when better practices amongst farmers are adopted, the production of manure by green crops will render this mode unnecessary. It must be gratifying to hear, that even cottiers are now eager to procure grass-seeds. Lay ground is frequently skinned with a plough and four horses walking abreast, (a boy walking backwards, and striking the horses in the face to make them advance,) and burned in the summer or autumn ; the ashes are always left in heaps, until the potatoe-digging is finished ; about the beginning of December they are spread, and wheat sowed, if the weather is favourable, but frequently from wet weather the sowing is deferred until spring. Indeed the greater part of the wheat of the county is sowed in spring ; this has been the custom time out of mind, and has caused no little merriment amongst the farmers, when they saw premiums of- fered by societies for experiments on the cultiva- tion of spring wheat, and equally so on an author's gravely 38 STATISTICAL SURVEY gravely asserting, that from his experiments he found it 'would answer, and that he was the first, that had tried it: it shews how little one part of Ireland knows of the practices of the other ; this knowledge, if no other good effect arose from the statistical surveys, -would be sufficient to obviate those igno- rant sneers, that indolent gentlemen are but too apt to indulge themselves in. It was the advice of the celebrated Bakewell, " to see what others were doing ;" and, strange as it may sound, the gentlemen of this county would be much bene- fited by staying less at home. Frequently after a crop of wheat, and one or two of oats, the ground is fallowed, and after the last ploughing in October is again sowed with wheat, trenched in with spades and shovels, and then oats, as long as the ground will give any ; after this it lies, as usual, useless for several years. On the sea-shore great use is made of sea^veed, (algae) of several species : two successive crops of potatoes are taken, and generally followed by wheat, oats, and barley, and the same course repeated : this has been the practice time immemorial. It very often happens, that a sufficient quantity of this ma- nure is not thrown in previous to the planting sea- son, sometimes from want of time, or the means of bringing it to their land; in this case they plant the potatoes at the usual season, and, according as the OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 39 the weed is thrown in by the tide, it is daily spread on the planted surface, and then covered by a second spit or shovelling, which keeps the weed moist, and causes it to rot. Experiments have been tried to ascertain, whether sea-weed, laid on fresh from the sea, was a better manure than that thrown into large heaps to rot before using ; the result has been in favour of the fresh weed. If potatoes are planted early enough on this manure, they are dry and well tasted, but, if late, are apt to be wet and ill tasted. Sea-sand has been used in many places with good effect, particularly by Mr. Mo- rony near Miltown, who spread a small quantity on ground of very inferior quality, which produced so great a crop of grass, as to set for meadow the following summer at seven guineas per acre, and continues to produce a most luxuriant growth of white clover and other valuable plants. It is gene- rally allowed, that this permanent effect is always the consequence of sanding ; but that, by sea-weed, does not last longer than two crops, and the soil acquires the appearance and tenacity of clay; but, as they have an abundant and never-failing sup- ply of it, this effect is disregarded. When the two modes can be united, (which fortunately is generally the ease) it is reckoned a very superior management. Mr. Westby, who possesses a considerable tract in 40 STATISTICAL SURVEY in the western part of the county, with one or two other proprietors, allowed their tenants for a few years some small premium for sanding their ground ; this had the best effects, as the quality of the crops was greatly improved, and the quan- tity much encreased ; and the herbage was so much changed, that, when let out to grass, even after the most barbarous system of deterioration, the ground was covered with white clover and other valuable plants ; and from land, that in its ori- ginal state only starved a few miserable sheep, fat mutton has been since sold in Kilrush market, and large quantities of milk and butter. The pre- mium for sanding has been discontinued for some years past, owing to some impositions practised by the tenants, claiming for more ground than they really manured.* The good effects, however, do and will for ever remain ; and one would imagine, that so very evident an improvement required no other premium than the superior quality and pro- ducts. The practice of sanding is chiefly con- fined to the parishes of Killard, Kilfieragh, Moy- ferta, and Kilballyhone. In the parish of Kilrush, vhere manure is easier to be had, and permission to burn the ground is not granted, they manure on the, * Tliis, amongst many other instances, proves how necessary a resident, active, intelligent agent is to an absentee ; had. one been here^ it is highly probable many hundred acres of Mr. Westby's wastes would have been ere now improved. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 41 the lay, and plant, in the usual way, in ridges; the second year, potatoes without manure ; the third year wheat is sowed, and the fourth and fifth years oats; the ground is either manured again, and the same course pursued, or else let out to grass in the usual way without hay-seeds. A large portion of the tillage of the county is performed by the spade, especially that on the sides of mountains, or amongst rocks; the unevenness of the surface, and too often the pocket not an- swering for the expence of a plough and horses ; and some of the best corn of the country is pro- duced in this laborious and expensive manner. It is almost impossible to ascertain the quantity x>f grain and potatoes produced on an acre ; the quality of the soil, and superior or defective ma- nagement, must always occasion such a great variety of produce. The average produce of potatoes is from twelve to fifteen barrels of one hundred and twenty-eight stone each ; of wheat, from five to nine barrels of twenty stone each ; of oats, from ten to sixteen barrels of fourteen stone each ; of barley, from twelve to sixteen barrels of sixteen stone each. In Tradree the average of wheat is eight barrels; oats, sixteen to eighteen ; and of potatoes, thirty- two barrels of sixty stone each to the acre.* g Great * When Mr. Young made bis tour in 1779, the average of wheat was six barrels and an half; of oats, twelve barrels; of barley, twelve barrels j 42 STATISTICAL SURVEY Great improvements have lately been made, by the introduction of better kinds of grain than had been formerly in cultivation ; American wheat, intro- duced by the Rev. Frederick Blood ; white Essex, a most valuable kind, by Messrs. Burton and Fitzgerald, at Clifden ; some new and valuable kinds by Sir Ed- ward O'Brien ; also potatoe, Poland, and New Hol- land oats, are now become common in the county.* Bindon Blood, Esq. introduced a kind from England much superior to any of those, which on his removal from Riverston he left to the person, to whom he set the place ; on making enquiries, I found it was •purposely given to the fowl! Near Ennis, white wheat is called big wheat, and red lammas in some places is called ball wheat ; I found with one small far- mer velvet wheat, which he sold at a high price. The quantity of grain sowed per acre varies greatly ; in some places orAy ten stone of wheat are allowed, and twenty-eight stone of oats ; in others, fifteen and twenty stone of wheat, fourteen stone of oats, and sixteen stone of barley ; less wheat is always sowed to the acre in spring than m winter. It barrels; sinee that, to the great enerease in the cultivation of potatoes must be attributed the difference, and these have also encreased, for he states 1640 stone to be the average, whilst now it is 19'iO s^one. * I weighed a bushel of Poland oats, it weighed 39g lbs. ; a bushel of very good common oats of the country, only 33% lbs. ; a small quantify of Mr. Blood's new oats equal to upwards of 44 lbs. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 43 It is generally thought that in Tradree, and about Six-mile-bridge, an equal quantity of ground is occupied by grass and tillage. Near the town of Ennis great quantities of onions are raised, and sold at all the fairs and markets, and are often sent to Limerick and Gal way, and sometimes to Dublin ; there is usually sowed in this neighbourhood alone upwards of 20 cwt. of onion-seed, and frequently great impositions are practised by carriers and others, speculating on bad seed in Dublin. The kinds of potatoes usually planted, are apples — blacks — cups — leather coats — grenadiers — lumpers — a few red-nose kidney by gentlemen— -red apple- white apple — white eyes — turks — barber's wonders— a few ox noble — a few yams or bucks — English reds — coppers — pink eyes, &c* There are more cups planted than of any other kind ; they are reckoned not only more productive, but vastly more nutritive, being more difficult of digestion, and, as the country people say, " they stay longer in the belly." To shew how far the best of our crops are behind what have been produced in ground in a very high degree of cultivation, the following statement is given from the best authority: c 2 Ifoung's * In the year 1672 potatoes seldom lasted longer than from August to May. Since that period, kinds have been obtained from seed, tha$ not only ripen earlier, but keep good for upwards of twelve months. 44 STATISTICAL SURVEY Barrels. Young's Eastern Tour, vol. I. p. 416. ..Oats per Ir. acre 29^ AnnalsofAgr. vol.lI.p.l59...Do. ,... 29£ Do «... vol.5, p. 240... Do 30-£ Eastern Tour, vol. 1. p. 401... Barley 25i£ Do vol. 3. p. 19. ..Do 28^ Annals of Ag. voL 2. p. 79. ..Do 29 Do vol. 2. p. 243.. .Wheat 18f- Do vol. 12. p. 45. ..Do 19^ Do vol.2, p. ^3. ..Do 21^ I am perfectly convinced many will say this i& book farming, but such are not worth notice. If they wish for information from one in the county of Clare, let them ask Mr. Singleton, what his, or his father's crops on the corcasses have been ; forty barrels (of sixteen stone each) of here to the acre ^ thirty barrels (of twenty stone each) of beans per acre, &c. Sect. 2. Course of Crops. This, although the most material part of agri- culture, is in general the least understood ; one> in which the greatest abuses prevail, and which alL proprietors of land are deeply interested to effect a change into a better mode, without which no per- manent improvement can ever be expected. We may continue to import Scotch swing, and English wheel-ploughs, and other implements of utility or whim, but, unless we import along with them the best practices of each country, and steadily pursue them* OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 45 them, in opposition to the old school stewards, it will only serve to bring them into disrepute with those, who are but too ready to catch at any opportunity to decry practices they do not understand. Sir Edward O'Brien has brought over a Scotch steward, to whom he pays sixty guineas per annum and his diet, and who has made a rapid change for the better in the farming of Dromoland : now if he only makes the ground produce half a barrel per acre more than formerly was done, this alone would make an addition of at least sixty guineas on a tillage farm of such extent (one hundred and thirty acres) ; but this is a very trifling part of the advantages to be derived from the skill and activity of such a man j* the value of his example, to so numerous a tenantry as Sir Edward possesses, is above all calculation. This is one of the happy effects of a resident and intelligent landlord. At Dromoland corn is not stacked in the field ; it is carried home from the stook, ricked, and immediately thatched, which saves much corn and fab our. It is very much the custom in this county, as well as in Galway, to allow stewards and gardeners to become small farmers and jobbers in cattle, &c- hy # The steward of the old school has little less, computing, with his wages, the value of cows grass, potatoe ground, house, turf, and a number of etceteras, which the indolence of his employer permitted him to lake; but the losses by the idleness of the workmen under hin^, from their considering him of the same tank as themselves, Iea«e aM calculation behind. 46 STATISTICAL SURVEY by which their employers* business is always ne- glected, and frequently themselves injured ; they are almost always in debt to their masters. It is no uncommon thing to hear gentlemen, after having been in England for a few months, descant with rapture on the vast superiority of the agri- culture of that country, and, by way of contrast, patriotically compare them with the worst of ours. This may in some measure be accounted for from their associating with these English gentlemen, who have .made this most difficult science their particular study, and by their fashionable lounges to Woburn abbey, Holkam, and those other seats, where improved practices are conducted in a manner and on a scale, that very few of our travelling agriculturists are willing to try ; and, if they did make a beginning, I fear it is the character of too many of our gen* tlemen to grow tired, or grudge the necessary ex- pence to bring things to bear. Had they made ex- cursions into some of the remote counties of Ens:- land, they would have perceived practices to the full as absurd as cur very worst ; they would have seen four or more horses or oxen in a plough, with two drivers ; they would also have seen repeated corn crops taken, without an intervening green one ; lands undrained, full of rushes and weeds, &c. &c. That the improved practices of the sister country are superior to any in the world, will, I imagine, be OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 47 -be readily conceded; but, ceteris paribus, the Eng- lish are not universally so very far before us, as their improvements in other branches of science would lead us to imagine. If the wretched course of cropping pursued in this county, that I have before mentioned, was only that of small farmers or cottiers, ignorance of better practices might be pleaded in extenuation ; but when we see them obstinately maintained by those, who, from their education and fortune, should be better informed, no animadversion, however severe, ought . to be withheld. What improvements can be ex- pected from tenants, when landlords are guilty of those very blameable practices ? In the course of my professional visits I have frequently expostulated with small farmers (great ones I always found too conceited of their own old ideas to listen with even patience to any change) on the ultimate ruin they would bring on their families by persevering in such a system of extreme deterioration, and at the same time endeavoured to impress them with the superior immediate (without that it was useless to speak to a poor man) and future profit of alternate green and white crops; the answer universally was, " What will you have a poor man do ? Surely if our prac* tices were bad, my Lord A. or Sir B. or Mr. C. would not pursue them." Until landed proprietors see with their own eyes, or procure those, from whom the 4S STATISTICAL SURVEY the mist of prejudice has been dispelled, to conduct their business, this must ever remain a reproach and a loss to them and their tenantry. The ignorance, and consequent obstinacy of stewards of the old school, has tended more to prevent improvement in Ireland, than all other causes united ; those, that I have had opportunities of seeing in this count}', (with few exceptions) are ignorant in every re- spect of the management of a demesne or farm, and are at best bad overseers of labourers; and those, to whom many trust their property in buying and selling cattle, and who are all attached to stout lone, and a thick plump hock, or, according to an old Westmcath saying, beef to the heels, know no more of the value of a beast, than to ask, when selling, a great deal more than the value, and, when buying, to offer a great deal less. For the instruction of those few farmers, who are willing, but have not had any opportunity of seeing better practices, or, from the very high price of modern agricultural publications, have not found it conve- nient to procure those, where such practices arc detailed, I shall take the liberty of suggesting a course of crops and management, that will not only give a superior present profit, but, after any length of time, will leave the ground in still better heart, than when they began. The ruinous course I have before mentioned, is either to burn or manure, for, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. ¥j for, 1st, potatoes; 2d, potatoes; sometimes 3d, pota- toes; 4th, wheat; and then follow repeated crops of oats, until the soil is completely exhausted ; it remains then for several years almost totally un- productive, not even producing weeds but of the humblest growth. If, instead of this scourging course, which may be compared to a spendthrift living on the principal of his money, the following is adopted on light soils, (and of this description a great part of the county consists,) I am very confident it will never be abandoned; 1st, potatoes, either burned for, or manured ; 2d, wheat or barley ; 3d, clover and ray-grass, sowed on the ground, occupied by the last crop, in the first moist weather in April or May, to remain for two years, and to be cut for soiling in the house ; then the ground to be ^broken up in October, and remain until April, when it should be well harrowed, and stretched into fur- rows, thirty inches or three feet asunder, and ma- nured from the dung produced by the cattle, that had been fed on the clover in summer. The potatoes now, and for the future, should be planted in drills, and landed by the plough, and not in the expensive method of many in this county, who land their drills with spades and shovels ; after this the same course is to be repeated. In place of wheat or barley, oats may be substituted,, as the straw is much more valuable for feeding store cattle h in 50 STATISTICAL SURVEY in winter. The farmer may rest assured that, in point of immediate profit alone, he will find a ma* terial difference, and the ground, instead of being greatly impoverished, will be vastly improved, both in fertility and freedom from weeds. The introduction of vetches, rape, turnips, &c. &c. must be gradually introduced, when a taste for improvement begins to dawn in the mind, when the cash he has made by the former course begins to. bum his pocket, and when the value of the clover gives him a favourable idea of the great value of green crops, and will convince him how erroneous the present notion of farmers is, that nothing but corn could pay rent ; until that period arises, (and I trust it is not far off,) it would only perplex and frighten those, for whose benefit this course is sug- gested. Whilst the small farmer is pursuing this profitable course, it is hoped those of more and better information, and larger income, will lead the way in the introduction and cultivation, on steady principles, of the best kind of green crops, in the most improved manner, and consumed in the house by stock ; then, and not before, we may expect such good practices will be generally adopted. Irish farmers are not that race of obstinate fools they are sometimes called by absentees, or their interested or ignorant agents or stewards ; they are no more wedded to the customs of their forefathers, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 51 forefathers, than the English, or those of. any other country of the same rank. I have ever found them ready to listen, and willing to be instructed, if gentle methods are used ; but the language of pe- tulant reproach, so often used to them, is by no means calculated to make proselytes : how quietly an English farmer would bear such language from a stranger riding along the road, as, ff Damn you, you stupid rascal, why don't you use two horses to your plough ?" fcle certainly would return the com- pliment, and perhaps might make some additions to it. The practice o.f ploughing with only two horses or oxen (still a driver) has been adopted within a few years by many, who formerly used never less than four, sometimes six ; example here, as in all other cases, is worth volumes of precept. Fal- lowing is still practised, but not to the extent it formerly was ; the great encrease in the cultivation of potatoes has lessened this odious custom ; the rise in rents too has undoubtedly contributed to this desirable abolition ; low rents have always tended to make farmers indolent. It is to be hoped, that farmers will at length become sensible of the loss they sustain by this triennial tax, more ruinous in its consequences than those, about which there is always so much croaking ; but this is a voluntary one, therefore more palatable. Two successive h 2 crops 52 STATISTICAL SURVEY crops of wheat are sometimes taken, but not often. According to the slovenly mode of tallowing in this county, and, I may add, the greater part of Ireland, it has not the intended effect of destroying weeds, but with respect to perennial weeds, that propagate by the root, a quite contrary one, as it only divides the roots and encreases them;, for few ever think of picking them off, and annual and biennial weeds are permitted to ripen their seeds, before the ground is ploughed ; the proper period for this operation is, when the young weeds are an inch or two high, when they are either turned into the ground and become a trifling manure, or are ex- posed to the sun and air, and destroyed. It is by no means uncommon in this county, as well as in the county of Dublin, to see thistles, docks, rag-weed, and other pernicious sorts in full seed, before they are turned in by the plough, or rather left with their heads sticking up between the furrows, where they come to maturit} T . The extraordinary exertions made by small far- mers and cottiers to procure manure (in many cases to the very great injury of the roads,) would lead one to think, that very little attention, aided by example from landlords, would easily induce them to abandon this practice : for, to accomplish the accumulation of this sine qua non of agriculture, cows and other beasts are generally kept in the house OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 53 house in winter, and fed with potatoes, usually boiled and mixed with bran, if the price is reasonable. Of the value of potatoes for this purpose they are so perfectly sensible, that it would be an easy matter to induce them to cultivate a small portion of ground with rape, vetches, clover, turnips, or any of those other valuable plants, which the improvements in modern husbandry have so happily introduced into field culture. If we advert to the endless variety of soils, in which the potatoe thrives, to the universal knowledge of the mode of its cultivation, to its ameliorating properties, especially, if planted in drills, to its undisputed fattening quality, to the superiority it possesses over every other vegetable production for cattle, of keeping good for upwards of twelve months, to the ease and perfect safety, ■with which it is kept in large quantities, and to many other advantages, which must occur to every agriculturist, it deserves the most serious attention of those enlightened farmers, to ascertain, by steady and well conducted experiments, whether it should not in a great measure supersede the use of many others, especially since the introduction of spring wheat. Beans were, formerly sowed to a great extent in the rich lands near the river Shannon and Fergus, but this culture has greatly declined. Mr. O'Brien of Cratilow had a very fine crop of beans in 1807, and the same year, after pulling the beans, mowed a verv Si STATISTICAL SURVEY a very abundant crop of hay, but it must be re- membered it was on corcass land : it is the opi- nion of a gentleman perfectly conversant in the nature of corcass lands, that, if beans and oats were it sowed alternately, they would produce abundant crops for ever. When these lands are first em- banked, they are of such fertility, that little else than straw is produced. Captain Palliser near Bun- ratty reclaimed a good deal of this land ; the first year barley, all straw ; then seven successive crops of potatoes without manure; and in 1807 I saw the oats, that followed these; it was very long in the straw, and well headed ; he intends to follow this with several crops of the same grain, and is certain of each crop encreasing in pro- ductiveness. I have heard it asserted that, when the ground, from repeated oat crops, becomes full of couch-grass and other weeds, and somewhat impoverished, a crop of beans is taken, which not only cleans the ground, but restores its usual fertility, and they commence again with exhausting crops of oats. A very com- mon course on corcass ground is; 1st, potatoes, without manure ; 2d, wheat; 3d, wheat; 4th, oats, with clover and hay-seeds ; 5th, very fine meadow ; it may be easily judged, what ground it is, that could produce such meadow after such a scourging rotation. Sect. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. is Sect. 3. v Use of Oxen, and how harnessed. Oxen are not much used in husbandry ; they are thought not to step quick enough, especially to meet the hurry of spring work ; I am convinced this partly proceeds from not selecting them ; large and strong^boned oxen are usually sought after for this purpose, without once considering, that heavy beasts of every kind are unfit for work, that requires dispatch ; if, on the contrary, middle-sized oxen {and whose activity of step was previously ascertained) were selected, this objection would have little weight. This difference of step seems to be wholly disregarded by farmers, and, when young oxen are to be broke kito the draft, the se* lection is usually committed to a bigoted ignorant ploughman, who generally chooses the largest, be- cause he thinks strength the only thing necessary ; another thing materially injures the step of oxen #j the laziness of both ploughman and driver. A strong corroboration of what is before ad- vanced, occurred at the ploughing match of the Farming Society of Ireland, at Huntstown, in March 1805 ; the Rev. Mr. Symes of Ballyarthur, in the county of Wicklow, obtained the premium and cup for the best ploughing from several competitors; it was performed by two small spayed heifers, who beat 56 STATISTICAL SURVEY beat several pair of very fine horses in quickness of step, and, contrary to the general idea, that oxen, if quick steppers, are apt to be blown or lose their wind, these were as little affected at the conclusion as the best horses in the field. Ano- ther instance of tlieir equality with horses occurred at the ploughing match at Mr. Shaw's at Terrenure; two beasts did their work equal to the best pair of horses in the field. Sometimes oxen, and horses or mules, are united in a plough ; but of ail the preposterous customs, which time and ignorance have sanctioned, this seems to be the greatest ; frequently a large sluggish ox is coupled to a young spirited quick-stepped horse or mule ; at first the horse exhausts his strength, but at length, finding his advantage in becoming as lazy as the ox, he ever after retains the slow step, as may be seen in every part of Ireland, where the loss, by the disgusting snail's pace of both ploughman and horses, is a very heavy drawback on the profits of farming., and is the cause of great injury in spring to those horses, who are beat into a quickness of step they have not been used to, and are frequently killed by their cruel masters. The question so often and so long before tbe .public, whether the use of horses or oxen is more economical for agricultural work, remains still un- decided. The advocates for horses contend, that, though OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 57 though they cost more to purchase, require better keeping, eat more than oxen, and are of infinitely less value, if injured, or when past their labour, yet the superior agility of their motions, enabling them . to perform a greater quantity of work, more than .counterbalances the low price, cheaper keeping, and superior value of the ox when past his labour. The comparison has probably never been fairly made ; it has been almost always between large sluggish oxen, ill fed, and middle-sized quick-stepped horses, fed with oats twice or three times a day. What far- mer ever thought, when he went to a fair to buv a team of oxen, of making them step out before him ? He only looks to those, who are likely to grow to a large size, and who have plenty of bone in their legs, without once considering whether they move fast or slow ; on the contrary, if he wishes to pur- chase horses, they are made to go through all their movements, and rejected if their step is sluggish; no wonder, therefore, that oxen are more slow in their motions; but put a pair of those lubberly, heavy-legged, black horses, that were lately most injudiciously attempted to be introduced from Lei- cestershire, by the side of Mr. Symes's heifers for a day's ploughing against time, and a more forcible light will be thrown on the subject, than by any thing I could say. The proper feeding of working oxen is generally most shamefully neglected, and falls 1 most 5$ STATISTICAL SURVEY most deservedly on the hard-hearted niggard his owner : if they get hay, they are generally thought to be uncommonly well fed ; no wonder, therefore, that they are slow in their movements. What sort of step, and for what continuance, would horses have, if fed in spring with hay alone? I have seen, at a very celebrated seat near Dublin, oxen fattening for the Farming Society's shew, pampered with every vegetable delicacy modern agriculture could pro- duce ; within a few yards stood a team of miserable creatures, nothing but skin and bone ; they fre- quently lay down whilst at work in the plough ; not a potatoe, cabbage, or carrot was thrown to these poor animals, nothing but indifferent hay, the refuse of the fattening cattle ; the steward, an Irish Eng- lishman, " know'd all the English practices, aye that " he did, know'd oxen never would stand it, not u they, and he told master so, that he did, but master " would have his way, and now he seed the conse- 11 quence." The consequence of this ignorance and prejudice was, that, instead of turning them out Avhen the spring work was finished in May, in good store order, which they would have been if well fed, besides doing twice the quantity of work, they were obliged to be kept over another year to fatten, before they were fit for Dublin market ; and, as the land was worth at least six pounds per acre, they cost upwards of twenty pounds each to make them fat, and this without any green winter feeding. Tq OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. £9 To make the comparison fairly, the feeding should be alike ; if they get Swedish turnip, potatoes, or bruised furze, it must not be understood to mean, that they will be able to perform hard spring work without a portion of corn, but they ought certainly to make a considerable part of their food. Mr. Young, in his most excellent Farmer's Kalendar, p. 263, says, "Swedish turnip is, next to carrots, 'the very best food, that can be given to horses." Oxen are not so liable to accidents as horses, nor to be ridden by lazy or vicious servants; where one beast only is kept, a horse will be always found most useful, but, where many are necessary, some of each sort will probably be found most economical. Michael Blood, Esq. when living at Roxton, formerly tried oxen, but imagined they were constantly lame, from gravel getting between their claws. William Burton, Esq. of Clifden, has used oxen in all kinds of work, and found them to stand well on their legs, and always in good order. The Earl of Egremont, who uses oxen entirely, allows his English tenants three per cent, of their annual rent, if they conform to his example. How praise-worthy would some premiums for the im- provement of the agriculture of his numerous te- nantry in this county be ? Surely they have a right to expect some encouragement, to compensate them for his total absence ; it is certain there are no tenants l 2 in CO STATISTICAL SURVEY in this county, whose agriculture wants the fostering hand of a landlord more; deterioration may be found with them in great perfection ; and even middle- men, who enjoy large incomes under him, are so far from setting a good example, that they are usually the very worst kind of tenant an absentee can have, and the greatest tyrants to cottier tenants. I shall have occasion r to say more of these gentlemen in another place. Oxen are now in many places guided by a ring in the nose - y this always remains, and does not in the least prevent his feeding. Collars are also used by many, but the .barbarous custom of working these poor creatures in yokes and bows is still continued. In Tradree a good many oxen are used, but generally in yokes. Sect. 4 . Nature (hid use of Implements of Husbandry, The plough of this county is very ill calculated to perform good work ; one of its greatest defects is, the sole not lying flat on the bottom of the furrow, by which means small ribs are left unploughed, which in wet soils (especially where the ridiculous custom of cross-ploughing is practised) prevents the water from running into the furrow, and in winter is highly prejudicial. It may be set down as an axiom, that, when the ploughman does not preserve an OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 6i an erect posture at his work, it is badly executed ; the furrow after good ploughing should be perfectly flat at the bottom, and the cut on the land side quite perpendicular ; the share is seldom broad enough to cut the furrow, consequently great ad- ditional force is necessary to tear instead of to cut the sod ; even if the fin should accidentally be ori- ginally broad enough, in a short time it wears almost off, and becomes quite blunt ; this, and the general bluntness of the coulter, causes a great encrease of draft. The Scotch plough, according to the im- proved principles, seems to be one of the best we have yet adopted ; it turns a sod nine or ten inches broad, and five or six inches deep, in stiff soils, with the assistance of only a pair of horses or oxen without a driver, in a much superior manner, and with more ease to both cattle and ploughman, than such work is usually effected in this county by four horses, and one, and very often two drivers, and, not unfrequently, a man to keep the plough in the ground by pressing on the end of the beam with a pitchfork. It very rarely happens, that the fur- rows are made straight; the person, who leads the horses, cannot possibly guide them in a right line ; he is too much occupied in beating them (four in a breast) in the face to make them go forward ; and the furrow, from the faulty construction of the plough, is generally so badly defined, that the horses 62 STATISTICAL SURVEY horses deviate from it, and form curves not unlike those tame and gently waving outlines, which sortie of our modern improvers are fond of in planting. Besides, the ploughman scarcely ever takes his eye off the furrow, he has enough to do to keep the plough in the ground ; if, on the contrary, the plough- man holds the reins, his eye is constantly fixed on some object on the headland, which he sees between the horses' ears, who scarcely ever deviate from the square and clean furrow, that a good plough leaves ; and the work is not only performed with exactness, but with ease to the horses, and, except in strong ground, the ploughman has seldom any exertion to make, the plough often running several perches with- out any assistance from him. At every ploughing match poles are set up on the headlands, to which a good ploughman runs his furrow nearly as even as if it had been cut by a garden line ; a leader to a plough would find this almost impossible, as has been often proved at ploughing matches, where attachment to old ridiculous customs has induced some farmers to expose themselves by sending ploughs drawn by four horses or oxen ; the result has been, without an exception, that their work was the very worst in the field, and even executed in a longer period than that by two horses.* Sir * I have frequently had the upp-r part of drains ploughed out, i>y placing stakes at each end, and executed as straight as if by a line. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 63 Sir Edward O'Brien, the Rev. Frederick Blood, and Mr. Burton of Clifden, have adopted the Scotch plough, with two horses or oxen, worked with collars and no driver, and find every advantage, that could be wished for. To shew the benefit of good ex- ample, I have seen a neighbouring small farmer landing his potatoes in drills, thirty inches asunder, with a plough ; so much superior is example to pre- cept. In many parts of this county, and on light soils, they are so obstinate as to use four horses abreast in what can only be called scratching the ground, it could not be termed ploughing. The traces are generally made of rope, sometimes with iron thimbles, but seldom with collars ; those made of straw, called sugans, are usually substituted. The common harrows of the country are of various sizes ; they usually have five bars ; they are of very rude workmanship and materials, and the teeth are so fixed, that several follow each other in the same line. There has been lately a new kind of harrow adopted at the Implement Society's works on the North wall, that is reckoned superior to any former one ; it consists of two small harrows joined in the middle, by which means it has not only the longi- tudinal motion of the old form, but has that hust- ling latitudinal one so desirable in rough ground ; it is drawn by two horses, but each horse draws bis own harrow, a mode that, if possible, should be adopted in all kinds of farming operations. Carts 64 STATISTICAL SURVEY Carts are used by only a few gentlemen ; those made in the country are sometimes called Scotch carts, but the principles, on which they are made, are little understood by carpenters ; they may have the appearance, and be painted blue with red wheels, (a plan adopted lately by every botching carpenter,) yet be deficient in good principles. Sir Edward O'Brien has Scotch carts, admirably contrived for farming work ; they are, 1st, carts ; 2d, by the addition of cradles, they become harvest waggons ; and, 3d, on the same wheels and shafts a frame goes on, that converts them into very capacious turf- waggons ; the naves are of cast metal. Cars, called here truckles, and in other counties Munster cars, and of a ver} 7 bad construction, are generally used ; the axletree is always of wood, and so very thick, that a great deal of unnecessary friction is caused; they are usually sold ready made, including straddle and hames of ash, for \l. 14s. \.UL — five stone of iron, 17s. 6d. — smith, 9s. 9d. — in all 3/. Is. 4^/. Much loss of labour is occasioned by not having the turf-kishes sufficiently capacious to draw a proper load for a strong horse; large unwieldy machines for this purpose are sometimes seen, in which four or six oxen or horses are harnessed. I have seen, in the streets of Ennis, six unfortunate oxen draw- ing one of these cumbrous machines; they drew by yokes and bows on their bare shoulders, seem- ingly OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 65 ingly much distressed; between the pain occasioned by this barbarous mode, and the ill construction of the machine, the load, though it appeared a mountain of turf, and was a cause of great exulta- tion to the drivers, did not contain near so much as they could have drawn, if harnessed singly ; for I observed, that, instead of pursuing a right line, they often staggered against each other, and devi- ated considerably, in so much, that I am convinced two of them frequently drew the whole ; they drew twenty-one Irishes of dry turf; singly, they would have drawn a much greater proportion. In some few places the slide car without wheels is still used, and generally .made of bog timber ; for drawing loads down steep hills it is an useful implement, as it does not run on the horse's heels like the wheel car. The other implements are spades, called in some parts of Ireland loys or Jacks* They are inconve- nient heavy tools, throwing the weight on one hand, and greatly inferior in handmess and strength to those in use in some parts of the county of Meath, and other parts of Leinster. When they become worn, they are narrow in the blade and short, and most unfit for cutting in bog, or for moving loose earth ; spades for this purpose should be very broad. I have seen upwards of forty men cutting drains in a bog, with these worn-down spades; the sod usually K fell 66 STATISTICAL SURVEY fell off two or three times, and not unfrequently it was left for the shovel ; as to pitching it to any distance, as it should be, that was quite out of the question ; the custom in this county, and indeed in most others, is to leave every thing for the shovel : in arranging labourers, the stewards of this county allot a shovel to every spade, though a good sho- veller could easily keep two spades employed ; but the good-natured spadesman, to prevent the shovel ■wanting work, does not throw any of the earth up on the bank, and the steward, wrapped up in his great frize coat, takes no notice of this indolent habit. Stewards and gardeners, who have even been in England, when they come into this country, too often conform to all the bad practices, and use all the unhandy implements of the country. Shovels are generally bad and too heavy : pitchforks are almost always too short in the prongs, and rakes with teeth so short, that much of the hay is left behind. Every kind of tool has a bad handle, ge- nerally crooked, and too small and pliant, partly from a scarcity of wood, and a partiality to a bent handle. Scythes and reaping-hooks, of the usual form, from England ; but the first are so badly set in the handle, that a man, to mow as close as he should do, must almost touch the ground with his knuckles; as the mower does not choose to injure OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 67 injure his back by this posture, he is permitted by his indolent employer to leave a large portion of grass uncut, between where the point and heel of the scythe meet in different swaths. Slanes for cutting turf generally too large. Wheel- barrows very bad; by the faulty position of the wheel, the entire weight is thrown on the hand, and they do not carry one-third of the weight they could with those, where the wheel is brought under the body. Some few gentlemen have potatoe washers, and still fewer have winnowing machines. I have not heard of any threshing machine in the county, but those belonging to Sir Edward O'Brien, and Boyle Vandeleur, Esq. with which he threshes forty barrels of oats (of fourteen stone each) in eight hours with two horses, smart work. Sect. 5. Markets for Grain, The principal markets for the sale of grain are Ennis, Innistymon, Clare, Skarriff, Six-mile-bridge, and Kilrush. Some are abundantly supplied, as Ennis, Clare and Kilrush, where grain is purchased very much for the Limerick exporters; the others are chiefly supplied with oats and barley, and some wheat. The different flour-mills take off a large quantity of the produce. The greater part of the barley is consumed in the private stills, that abound in every part of the county, and, however they may K 2 have 6S STATISTICAL SURVEY have injured the morals and health of the inha- bitants, they have certainly tended to encrease the quantity of tillage. The market of Kilrush is rising rapidly into consequence, and, if capital was not •wanting, would take still larger strides, as, instead of buying on Commission for the Limerick mer- chants, as practised at present, there would be a direct intercourse with Liverpool and other ports in England, not only for corn, but for beef, butter, pork, and rape-seed, which last is becoming an article of agricultural produce, that deserves every encouragement, because so materially connected ■with the improvement of the extensive bogs, with which this neighbourhood abounds, there not being less in one tract than four miles square ; besides, the additional expence of shipping and reshipping, and loss of time in going up the Shannon, a distance of upwards of forty miles, would be saved. There has been lately a very commodious and handsome market-house built here by Mr. Vandeleur. The market-house of Conform is at present almost use- less, as all corn not purchased at Clifden mills is sent to Ennis; to the disgrace of the Roman Catholic inhabitants, it is the chapel at present, and on Sun- day morning the ball-players are turned out, to make room for the priest to celebrate mass, after which the ball-playing again commences. A fertr years since, a good deal of money was collected ; amongst OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 69 amongst many others, Sir Edward O'Brien contri- buted twenty pounds, and many neighbouring Pro- testants also gave liberally for the erection of a Catholic chapel, but, after building a part of it, all further proceeding has been stopped, and it re- mains a reproach to the managers. The market-house of Tullagh is also at present useless, except to the horses of those, who attend divine worship at either church or chapel. The payment for corn at the mills, and by those, who buy on commission, is usually by bills at dif- ferent dates, sometimes cash, and often part cash, to answer present demands, and the remainder by bills j an agreement is usually made by the seller, that he shall have not less than a certain present price, -and whatever rise in the market (if any) there shall be between that period and a certain remote one, perhaps three or four months from the time he delivers his corn. This is a wretched mode, dictated only by want of capital, and is frequently the cause of much dis- puting, and often of litigation, and sometimes loss to the seller, as lately happened by the failure of a commission house ; but this practice has lately been abolished in many places. I could not Rnd, that the want of the inland bounty on the carriage of corn to Dublin, formerly paid, has in the least diminished the produce of corn ; whatever objec- tions 70 STATISTICAL SURVEY tions may have been formerly made against the propriety of this act, it cannot be denied, that it caused the erection of a great number of extensive flour-mills, and of course promoted the cultivation of corn in districts, where, from want of this en- couragement, scarcely more was produced than supplied the home consumption. Indeed the bounty paid in this county was very trifling, amounting in sixteen years to little more than 800/. whilst in Kilkenny, during the same period, upwards of 151,000/. was paid. Whatever may have been the merits or faults of the measure, I am perfectly con- vinced, that any encouragement to convert grass- land to tillage will be greatly misapplied, until an ameliorating course of cropping is one of the in- dispensable conditions, and could have been only dictated by those, who know more of financial and commercial affairs than of agriculture. The vast quantity of communications to the Board of Agri- culture on this subject, if we were to judge from what have been published, shews how little the matter is understood even in England ; one signed G. S. C. and republished by the Dublin Society in their Transactions, is particularly objectionable. The good effects of either bounties or restrictions (with some few exceptions) on any kind of agri- cultural produce are at least doubtful, a certainty of a demand and a good price being much more likely OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 71 likely to encourage an extended cultivation than an act of parliament. See what the high price of rape has done ; there are many thousand barrels of it produced in this county, which all the premiums offered by the Dublin Society, or the example of some very few landlords, could not effect ; the high price and certainty of a sale at Limerick did wonders. How many exposed themselves to ridicule a few years since, when they proposed to enact laws to oblige farmers to bring in their corn, and to establish a maximum of price? How these wise heads would shake, if a maximum of rent/of their estates, or on commercial productions, was proposed ? But it seems they imagined, as too many ignorant people do, that agriculture was of less consequence than any other branch of commerce, and the plough a less useful instrument than the loom or shuttle. The cultivation of rape is in a great measure free from the objections, that have been before stated against breaking up grass-lands for tillage, because, being usually sowed on bog or moor, this kind of soil is not so easily injured, and would otherwise remain totally unproductive. No bounty, public or private, should be given for any corn crop, that did not succeed or was not followed by a green one ; and the Farming Society of Ireland are so far defective in their premiums for corn, as they confine them to quality and quantity of grain per acre. A large 72 STATISTICAL SURVEY A Jarge quantity of oats is consumed by the cavalry in the different surrounding towns; that of Gort alone consumes about 3500 barrels of fourteen stone each, at from 10s. to 14s. per barrel; about 800 tons of hay, at from 50s. to 3/- 8*. 3d. per ton ; and of straw about 400 tons ; this consumption must be of great service to the country. Bad oats sell for* as much to the contractors as the best, which is not a little extraordinary, as the army are usually very particular in the quality of their forage. Sect. 6. Use of Green Food in Winter. Potatoes are very much used in winter for milch cows and pigs; every cottier knows their value. The Rev. Frederick Blood, Mr. Blood, late of Riverston, and Mr. Burton of Clifden, have cul- tivated rape and borecole for this purpose, and found them of great benefit in spring ; many others from their example are now preparing for their cul- tivation ; they only want to be better known to ensure a general culture. Sheep prefer rape to borecole ; when they have been turned into a field, where both plants were growing in great luxuriance, they scarcely touched the borecole, until the rape was all eaten ; and it is remarkable, that there were many variegated curled borecole, which remained untouched, until the plain curled borecole was nearly finished. ^ Q OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 73 Tbe graziers say, that the perpetual verdure of their land, especially on the calcareous soils, pre- cludes the necessity of providing either hay or any cultivated green food. In those vast tracts of rocky ground in Burrin, devoted almost exclusively to the rearing of sheep, the use of hay is almost unknown, (indeed if necessary it could not easily be had,) and the continuance of snow for any length of time is very uncommon ; if this should happen, immense numbers must starve, or be lost amongst the rocks. On lands, on which a Leinster man would think his cattle would starve, I have often seen a bite for them in March, caused by the natural fertility of the soil, and the shelter of the limestone-rocks, which is also of the greatest benefit to stock in winter and inclement springs. In this part of the county the graziers are very much in the practice of permitting their summer grass to remain untouched until the following spring j it is called here winterage, and in England rouen, and, where it will stand, as in this country, is of inestimable value, and frequently sells for a much higher price than it would have done in summer, especially when a low price for cattle induces graziers to keep over some of their stock to another season. In other parts of the county, that do not pos- sess these advantages, green winter food would be of infinite benefit, especially in the eastern and * western 14 STATISTICAL SURVEY western extremities, where, from the retentive nature of the substratum, and a total want of drainage, vegetation is greatly retarded ; here green food would be inestimable, particularly rape, as, after the head is cut off, or the leaves stripped from the stalk, the plants should stand for seed; and, from some experi- ments I have tried, I know, that those plants, whose heads are cut off, are less liable to the mildew, than * when they are left on. As the cultivation of this plant is beginning to be well known, I hope the land- lords will exert themselves to introduce this prac- tice amongst their tenantry, as they may rest assured no one thing will tend more to encrease their rent-roll than the spirited cultivation of this plant ; they need but cast their eyes to their im- mense tracts of bog and mountain, to be convinced of this fact. When it is intended to use rape for both purposes, it should be sowed earlier than is commonly practised ; the end of June or beginning of July would not be too soon. Too much seed is always used, and the plants never thinned, which causes the seed to be small, and more unproductive than if left thinner; if they were thinned to nine- or ten inches asunder, much more anjd better seed would be produced ; when it is used for green food, it should be cut previous to the first of March, as cutting after that period would very much injure it for seed, and,, too much of the head should not he OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 75 be cut off. If it could be accomplished, the best method is to transplant h into drills about thirty inches asunder; this would give an opportunity of landing them, which would tend greatly to improve bog, and indeed every kind of soil. The farmers in the west. of the county, who have been for many years in the habit of cultivating oats, as best suiting their moory soils, in very bad weather feed their cattle on straw alone, and, from their defective management in saving it, it is usually ver}' indifferent. Few have more hay than serves their horses, and some not near enough, in which case they must put up with bad straw, and little or no oats. This county may well be called the horse's purgatory. L 2 CHAP. 76 STATISTICAL SURVEY CHAP. III. PASTURE. Sect. 1. Nature of it. THE pasture of this county possesses that va- riety necessary for rearing and fattening stock of every species and age. The low grounds on the rivers Shannon and Fergus, called corcasses, are equal to the fattening of the largest sized oxen ; these fine grounds extend from Paradise to Lime- rick, an extent of upwards of twenty miles, fol- lowing the course of the Shannon and Fergus, and are computed to contain upwards of 20,000 acres, some say only about 10,000 ; they consist of a deep dark-coloured earth, generally overablueish or black clay, or moory substratum, producing, from the greatest neglect, amongst the most luxuriant herb- age, a great quantity of rushes and other pernicious weeds. Indeed the same complaint may be made of the lands of every grazier in Ireland ; they are in general the most slovenly farmers, and none ever think of mowing thistles, nettles, fern, or even briars, except OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. Tl except their wives, whose perquisite ashes are, get them cut for this purpose. These corcasses about thirty years since let for 20s. per acre, but now many are let at the enormous rent of 5l. merely for the purpose of fattening cattle, and sometimes much higher for meadow. Totally opposite in their nature and uses are the limestone crags of Burrin, and the eastern part of the baronies of Corcomroe and Inchiquin ; these are, with some few excep* tions, devoted to the rearing of young cattle and sheep, and some so very rocky, that four acres could not feed a sheep ; intermixed with these crags may be found some ground of a very fattening qua- lity, producing the finest flavoured mutton, where a person, ignorant of this quality, would imagine sheep could scarcely exist ; in soils of this excellent nature white clover, trefoil, and yarrow predominate. Large tracts of these mountains are let by the bulk, and not by the acre. The pasture of the other baro- nies possesses every variety, from the mountain pro- ducing scarcely any thing but heath and carex of various sorts, and which scarcely keep young cattle alive, until it gradually melts into the rich corcass, that supplies the merchants of Cork and Limerick with immense quantities of beef for the navy. Pasture in the hands of the lower kinds of farmers and cottiers is generally very bad, owing to the system they universally pursue, in taking repeated com 78 STATISTICAL SURVEY corn crops, and scarcely ever sowing any kind of grass-seeds, but leaving the ground to nature, who Seldom fails in a few years to clothe their fields with grass ; but in the mean time they must suffer great losses. Their pastures are usually overstocked, especially on those estates, where the landlord or his agent are so blind to their interest, as to grant leases in partnership ; here every man wishes to keep as much stock as possible. In the eastern and western extremities of the county, the land usually consists uf reclaimed mountain or bog, and, as they scarcely ever use any kind of calcareous manure, the pasture generally consists of coarse sour grasses^ and carex of various sorts, which, if not eaten too bare, sustains a small number of young cattle, but infinitely short of the number it could, if improved by draining and liming. The ground be- tween Poulinisky and Carigaholt is remarkable for producing good milk and butter; and there is a small field near Kilrush, which, though it will fatten a cow in a very short time, will take away the milk of the best milker in a few weeks ; if this information is correct, the investigation of the ve- getable productions of this field might lead to some useful fact interesting to the botanist as well as grazier. * The * I did not receive this information, until I had left the neigh- bourhood, or I would have endeavoured to throw some light on the subject. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 19 The murrain was a very common and fatal dis- order some years since ; like the rot in sheep, it exercised the ingenuity of conjecture and quack- ery ; it was by some imputed to a worm with a very large head, and of very vivid colours, which, it was said, poisoned the water, that the cattle drank; by others it was conjectured, that some poisonous plant (the seed of which, I suppose, dropped from the clouds at that particular period) caused it, and which most fortunately asses were fond of (how lucky !) ; for this happy propensity they were purchased by many sagacious graziers, and the murrain ceasing about this period, the asses had all the honor, and it is still usual to keep two or three of these animals on a farm ; the number of cattle killed by this dreadful disease was immense ; many persons lost almost the entire of their stock, and were completely beggared; however the cure of it may have been effected, it has not been known for several years. A peculiar kind of pasturage occupies the sand- hills opposite to Liscanor bay, and along the shore from Miltown to Dunbeg ; they consist entirely of sand blown in by the westerly winds ; this is arrested in its flight by the growth of the following plants, and has accumulated to immense hills, and at a good distance from the shore ; in many places they prevent the ravages of the^tide, and are a mud* so STATISTICAL SURVEY much safer barrier than those immense cliffs, which guard other parts of the coast, and into which the sea is making rapid progress. White clover, Red clover, Birds-foot trefoil, Yellow medick, Meadow soft grass, Sheep's fescue, Annual meadow-grass, or Suffolk-grass, Dandelion, Coltsfoot, Black medick, Ragweed, Ribwort plantain, Crested dogs-tail-grass, Yarrow, Daisies, Sea-reed, mat-weed, or bent, such as is used for making floor- mats in Dublin, Several sorts of thistles, Yellow flag iris, in great"\ luxuriance in several f feet depth of pure sea- f sand, on thesea-shore, ) Rough cocks-foot-grass, Trifolium repens. Trifolium pratense. Lotus corniculatus. Medicago falcata. Holcus lanatus. Festuca ovina. Poa annua. Leohtodon. Tussilago. Trifolium lupulinum. Senecio jacobaea. Plantago lanceolata. Cynosurus cristatus. Achillea millefolium. Bellis perennis. Arundo arenaria. Iris pseudoacorus. Dactvlis glomerata. Urtica dioica. Nettle, And many others, that I could not ascertain, or the names of which I forget. The OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. SI The greatest part of these plants are eaten by sheep, particularly the lotus corniculatus, which is kept quite close to the ground by them and rabbits, and seems to answer the high character given of it by Dr. Anderson, and in light soils is particularly" well worth the notice of the proprietors, especially those possessing ground on the sea-shore, as this plant, both from the closeness of its branches, and the great length of its strong roots, (some of which I have traced ten feet deep into the sand,) prevents the wind from shifting the sand. This plant forms a very material part of the best fattening herbage of light soils, and frequently may be found in dry bog- ditches, and also on clay soils; it retains the finest ver- dure even in the driest sand, and hottest summers, occasioned by the great depth, to which the roots run. White clover also forms a very large portion of the growth of these hills. A large quantity of bent, such as is used for matting, might be annually collected here ; it was formerly made use of by the country people for thatching, but those, who received the permission to cut it, not contented with this, pulled it up by the roots, and, by destroying the plants, permitted the wind to blow away the sand, that was detained by these roots ; since that period they have been very properly denied access. This proves, amongst numberless instances, that any indulgence of this kind, especially to women, is too ofien abused ; permit them to glean before your stacks are out M of 82 STATISTICAL SURVEY of the field, and they will pull them unless closely watched ; the same complaint attaches to the Eng- lish peasantry. Cattle and horses eat this plant, when better food cannot be had. Little attention has been paid to the improvement of the pasture of this county, the greater part of it being so covered with rocks as to preclude all improve- ment, except by making good fences and destroying brambles, black thorns, and other useless growths. Rich corcass lands, that have never been broken up, or at least not for many years past, and are very much encumbered with weeds, or those lands, which have been so impoverished by repeated corn crops, that they produce a very scanty supply of poor sustenance for cattle or sheep for many years after, when they begin to recover their fertility, usually produce, amongst others,, a large proportion of crested dog's-tail grass, (cynosurus cristatus,) in Irish thra- neens, white clover, (trifolium repens,) and trefoil, (medicago lupulina). Laying down with grass-seeds has been hitherto practised only by very few gen- tlemen, who have uniformly borne testimony to the incalculable advantage of the practice. Mr. Wil- liam Owen of Inchiquin, near Corrofin, sowed clover and hay-seed in ground, which had been completely exhausted by this system of over-cropping ; when he sowed it, the ground was worth nothing, nor, if left to itself, would be for several years. The following summer OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 83 summer he mowed a very abundant crop of choice hay, and had several cuttings given green to cattle, horses, and pigs ; had the whole field been used in this manner, instead of having been cut for hay, it would not only have produced at least three times as much food, but, what is of infinite consequence, a large quantity of manure would have been gained. So many instances have occurred in various parts of Ireland, under my own eye, of the inestimable value of the practice, that I cannot too earnestly press it on the attention of landholders, and of proprietors: the one would be enabled to give a o-ood rent for lands, that are deemed worth little, and the other would, with only a little exertion of themselves or their agents, double their rent-rolls ; it is a certain fact, that an adoption of a better system of farming would have this double effect. The proportion usually allowed, is of ray-grass, if sowed alone, four bushels per acre ; or of ray-grass two bushels, and red clover fourteen pounds, per acre. Ground of this description, after having been used in this manner for two summers, should be broken up early in winter, as grass-grounds break up best when moist, and drilled potatoes should be cultivated. If the clover has been fed in the house, (and any other mode is most wasteful, and prac- tised only by the most wretched farmers,) and the cattle have been well littered, there will be a suf- M 2 ficient S4 STATISTICAL SURVEY fkient quantity for this purpose ; the potatoes to be followed by a crop of barley or oats, with which clover and hay-seeds should be sowed, and the soiling system steadily pursued as before ; by which means, not only the land will be brought to a high degree of amelioration, but the manure, which under the old system of pasturing would be lost, if dropped on the land in summer, will remain for the im- provement of other worn out ground, or any other purpose found necessary. In hot dry summers, the grass of the rocky regions before mentioned becomes quite brown and withered, and stock are put to their shifts ; but, shortly after a shower of rain falls, there is an astonishingly rapid change to a charming verdure, and the ground pro- duces a fine bite, where a few days before they were almost perishing. This is to be understood chiefly of those parts, where the stratum of rock, provincially called flag, lies horizontally ; if it assumes a perpendicular position, it does not suffer so much, as the fissures between the rocks of this description are generally filled with the richest earth, frequently many yards deep, which produces not only the most luxuriant pasture, but the most vigorous growth of trees, particularly ash, and scarcely ever loses its colour, except in extreme drought. It is the custom of many graziers to take up their grounds in June or July, (sometimes in poorer soils they OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 85 they remain untouched from the foregoing autumn,) and to permit the grass to remain for feeding store cattle or sheep in winter, and frequently for the pur- pose of turning in cattle until their fattening ground is ready, which in backward springs is of great value. In whatever way this kind of grass is con- sumed, it is found to be a most beneficial practice, in so much, that when this kind of ground, from want of stock, and frequently from people taking ground they are not able to stock, (which is much the practice in this county,) is to be let for the winter, very ihigh prices are often paid by those, who are overstocked, or whose soils are backward in vegetation. Sect. 2. Breed of Cattle — how far improved, and how far capable of further improvement. The breed of this county are almost all long- horned, generally well shaped about the head, and tolerably fine in the limb, good milkers, and thrifty. They were formerly in great estimation with the Leinster buyers, who used to attend the fairs in spring (especially Innistymon) to purchase maiden heifers, until the frequent impositions practised by the breeders put a stop to it : it was no uncom- mon thing for a grazier to find several of his heifers springing, that were engaged to him to be maiden ; S6 STATISTICAL SURVEY maiden ; this avaricious practice at length brought its own punishment in the loss of a trade, that, honestly pursued, would have enriched them. A few of the old Irish breed may be seen in moun- tainous situations ; they are usually black or of a rusty brown, with black reflected horns, and large bellies, good milkers, and very hardy ; but, as im- provement takes place in these mountains, the breed keeps pace with it, and you will frequently see at fairs very neat cattle (I mean cows) the property of poor people. A few spirited individuals have either imported > or bought from those, who did, cattle of the improved Leicester breed. Amongst others, Mr. Molony of Kiltannon, Mr. Blood, late of Riverston, Sir Edward O'Brien, Mr. Daxon of Fountain, and the Rev. Frederick Blood, have pro- cured fine bulls, the want of which hitherto has prevented a more speedy improvement in the breed of cattle ; for, by a judicious selection, many very fine heifers, scarcely inferior to any that have been imported at enormous prices, may be had at, the fairs, which, on being crossed with improved bulls, would raise the breed in a few years to a high degree of perfection ; but, until this is done, it is in vain to look for any superior degree of improvement. I do not recollect seeing in this county' a native bull likely to get good stock ; they are in general heavy-limbed, with large heads, leathery jaws, and dipped OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 87 dipped in the back ; but size, in the opinion of many graziers, constitutes perfection. It is a common 'cant, accompanied with a horse laugh, or an ignorant remark on the Farming Society of Ireland, that there is no breed equal to Phil. Roche's^ meaning, that, as he was an eminent exporter of beef in Limerick, that breed, which weighed most (and bone weighed better than flesh) in his scales, must be the best, without ever once considering the greater quantity of food it took to fatten this coarse-limbed and large-headed animal. For it has been uniformly found, that those beasts, who are fine in their shape, are most easily fattened, and those, for which premi- ums have been received at the shews of the Farming Society of Ireland, have been invariably perfect in their shape ; amongst many others, the beautiful ox, for which Mr. Going received a prize at this shew; he was bred by Mr. Molony of Kiltannon, in this county, from cattle of a very superior breed, which he imported from Warwickshire, and was sold in a lot to Mr. Hastings near Killaloe, and by him to Mr. Going. The custom of selling maiden heifers for slaugh- tering, at the different fairs, especially Ballinasloe, has tended very materially to retard improvement ; for this purpose they are selected for the beauty of their shape and size at various fairs, and, after receiving a year's feeding, are usually sent to Bal- linasloe 8$ STATISTICAL SURVEY linasloe fair in May ; had the same pains been taken to select them for breeding, and the ordinary ones killed, there would be a rapid improvement. It has been asserted, I know not with what truth, that the late Mr. Bake well used to meet these heifers on the road in England, and purchase those of the finest shapes, and, after giving them his fine bulls, send their progeny over to us at very high prices. Nothing would contribute more to improve the breed of cattle, than landlords procuring good males of every kind for the use of their tenants, and giving them out at a trifling rate ; for, paying for their use would make them anxious, and careful of their produce, and to those, who were too poor to pay, they should be gratuitous. One pig of a litter for the use of the boar is a good method ; but they must beware of a trick, often practised, of bringing a young pig of the common breed of the county, instead of the improved kind. There is no sort of stock, that wants improvement more than swine ; the general breed of this county is most wretched, and, as it is the poor man's stock, and on the sale of which the payment of his rent frequently depends, it behoves every landed proprietor, for his own sake, to contribute to their improvement. The number of absentees in this county is very great, and surely, in- dependent of their own future encrease of rent, this is the least they can do for the immense sums they draw OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 83 draw from it to spend in other countries. This improvement might be effected, by agents to ab- sentees being obliged to reside in the midst of the tenantry, and not, as is too common, in London or Dublin, never making their appearance, but when they fly down to receive the rents, and as quickly away again, totally ignorant of the destruc- tion, that is usually accruing to land by too frequently burning it, to houses and fences from neglect, and to bog by improper cutting, &c. &c. There are some agents, who, so as they get the cash to enable them to make usurious discounts, care little what becomes of either Jand or tenantry ; an agent, not living on the estate, appears to me a monstrous solecism in the management of it, and it is equally so to appoint one totally ignorant of the value of land. Sheep have been greatly improved in their shape by the introduction of Leicestershire rams, but ma- terially injured in the quality of their wool ; this was formerly short and fine, adapted to the soil and manufactures of that part of the county, espe- cially that produced in Burrin, and bore a high price at Ballinasloe fair in July; since that period it has become much coarser, and the old women regret the introduction of the Dexters, (as they call them) which, they say, spoiled their wool. The mutton of those high-bred sheep is by universal consent esteemed vastly inferior to that of the N native 90 STATISTICAL SURVEY i native breed, procured in the remote parts of the county.* It seems to be an opinion of most graziers, even the most prejudiced old-light men, that one cross with Leicester rams does not materially injure the mutton, but they will not allow it to go further. Mr. Blood, of Riverston, who possesses large tracts of rocky soil in Burrin, has with great judgment introduced the breed of South Down sheep, selected from the choice flocks of the Marquis of Sligo and Mr. Wynne of Hazlewood, convinced, that not only from their being amongst the finest-woolled sheep in England, but also from their approximation in propensities and in appearance to the ancient breed of the country, they are to be preferred for this kind of soil. I have often with great pleasure viewed his lambs,, produced by the first cross of South Down with selected native ewes ; the improvement was asto- nishing; and there can be little doubt, that their produce will be covered with wool nearly as fine as the South Down ; I have a sample of this wool, that is nearly equal to any South Down. The first cross gives the lamb half the ramY blood — the 2d gives 75 per cent. — the 3d gives 87^ per cent. — the 4th * The great propensity to fat, often objected to in this new breed, ft one of the greatest encomiums . it could receive j how very easy to encrease the number on an acre, and bring them down to the uaost Squeamish appetite i OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 9l 4th gives 93J per cent. ; after that, if care has been taken in the selection, no difference will be per- ceived. In a sheep-rearing country such as Burrin, possessing a short bite, and requiring activity to gather it, there can be little doubt of the inesti- mable value of the South Down breed of sheep, and that the breeders have sustained a heavy loss by the deterioration of their wool.* At the fair of Ballinasloe in July, 1806, the best combing wool sold for 1 9s. 6d. per stone of sixteen pounds, whilst the South Down wool of the Rev. Mr. Symes of Ballyarthur, in the county of Wicklow, sold for 2l. 12s. , and by auction, where there was every fair competition amongst the buyers. The average weight of the .combing wool is about 5lbs, the fleece, an4 of the South Down about 3lbs., so that the native fleece sold for about 6s. 6d. whilst the South Down produced 9s. 9d. At the auction of fine wool at Mr. Berry's in North Anne-street, Dublin, in September 1805, the following prices were pbtained by the following breeders. per lb. s. d. Marquis of Sligo, No. 1. Sjputh Down, -25 Do. No. 2. | South Down ram, and i Cunnamara ewe, 2 I N 2 Marquis * Since the $bove was written, Mr. Blood has set his farms an«$ sWd all this kind o( sheep, which must be considered -t serious loss to 92 STATISTICAL SURVEY per lb. s. d. Marquis of Sligo, No. 3. Same breed, - 2 6£ George Grierson, Esq. South Down, 2 4 Rev. Mr. Symes, - 3 3 Earl of Farnham, Spanish and Ryland, 3 8 Sales of clothing wool, in 1806, at ike same place, Rt. Hon. Owen Wynne, South Down, 2 9| Do. - Do. - 2 6 Rev. James Symes, Do. - 2 3 James Woodmason, Esq. Do. 2 Rt. Hon. Owen Wynne, Coarse South Down, 2 3 Marquis of Sligo, South Down, 2 1 Francis Trench, Esq. Do. - 2 2* Nath. Trumbull, Esq. Ryland, - 2 Marquis of Sligo, Best South Down, 3 2 Rt. Hon. Owen Wynne, 2 fleeces Ryland, 8lb. 4 1 Earl of Farnham, Spanish and Ryland, 3 9£ Rev. James Symes, South Down, 4 George Grierson, Esq. Do. - 3 4 Thomas Trench, Esq. Spanish and Ryland, 2 9\ Francis Trench, Esq. South Down, 2 7 Colonel Brown, Do. - 3 7 John Trench, Esq. Do. - 2 6', Amount of sales, 442/. 2^. 8d. Rev. to that part of the county. A piece of superfine broad-clotb, ma- jiufactured from the wool of these sheep, has obtained one of the pre- miums given lately (March 1808) by the Farming Society of Ireland, ▼et the breeders permitted this valuable breed to .leave their count-,. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 93 Sales of clothing wool, in 1807, at the same place. per lb. s. d. Rev. James Symes, South Down 9i fleeces, {\Zs, 3d. each,) 5 4 Do. - Wicklow and S. Down, 2 O Marquis of Sligo, South Down, 289 fleeces 4 O Do. - Do. - - 2 5 Rt.Hon.Owen Wynne, Do. 34 fleeces, 2 2 Do. - - Cast Do. - 2 5 Do. - - Do. 3 rams fleeces,* 3 C Do. - Do. 166 fleeces, 3 9 Bindon Blood, Esq. Do. - - 3 7 Rev. Thomas Trench, Do. - - 2 3 Lord Clermont, Do. - - 4 Do. - - Half-bred, 34 fleeces, 2 2 George Grierson, Esq. South Down, 2 1 Do. - - Do. 1 1 1 fleeces, 3 10 Amount of sales, 560/. lis, 8^. In point of hardiness the South Down sheep are equal to any breed, and the mutton of them produced at the Farming Society House in Ballinasloe, in Octo- ber 1805, was of the most exquisite flavour, though only * The three rams' fleeces sold for 2/. 10s. 9d. or 16s. lid. each, and weighed 14£ lbs. It will be seen, that these prices have not been obtained for a few picked fleeces, (as prejudiced graziers have more than once asserted,) but for whole flocks. Lord Clermont's receiving 8s. 7d. per fleece of half bred sheep is well worth the attention of breeders, as indeed is the whole li?t. *4 STATISTICAL SURVEY only two years old ; they were bred by Mr. Grierson, who deserves great credit for his spirit and perseve- rance in this and every thing beneficial to his country. The swine of this county possess every de- fect of form ; they are remarkably narrow across the back, thick-legged, and have monstrous heavy ears, nor are they so easily fed as the Leicestershire breed introduced by some gentlemen lately. Mr. Blood of Riverston received a medal, at Ballin- asloe shew in 1804, for the best pig of any age, and greatly improved the breed of the neighbouring gentlemen and farmers, and even those of the cottiers, by hiring his boar, for which he received a pig of the litter at six weeks old ; in my rides round his seat I could easily distinguish the im- provement in the shape. The Rev. Frederick Blood has an improved breed of this animal ; Mr. Daxon of Fountain from Lord Cunningham's breed ; and Mr. Burton of Clifden from 3VJr. Blood's breed. Many farmers contend, that swine roaming at large thrive better than when confined ; this proceeds not ©nly from the filthy state, in which they keep them, but from irregularity in the feeding. The breed of horses has dwindled very much, and, until that of strong active hunters is again introduced, little improvement can be expected. The introduction of Suffolk punch stallions would be of infinite use to the breeders of draft cattle, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 95 as they combine great strength wrth activity, and would help to banish out of the country that vile breed of heavy-limbed black horses, that have so long usurped the place of a more generally useful kind. There are a vast number of mules bred in this county, but with little or no selection ; conse- quently you seldom see one of good size. Mr. Crow of Ennis has procured a very fine ass of the Spanish blood, which has greatly improved the size and shape, and, were any but the very worst sort of mares devoted to this purpose, a very valuable breed would be introduced. Asses are very com- monly used, especially by poor people, and are highly useful, when the weight to be carried is moderate, but yet too much for a man. An ass and a small cart, or two baskets, as generally used in this county, will be found very serviceable for bringing clover or other soil to the stables and cattle-sheds in summer, because the frequent jour- neys, they are obliged to make, prevent that waste, which is generally made by bringing in a large quan- tity at once to save a lazy herd trouble. I never have gone into a house, where the soiling system has been attempted, but my nose could detect this abuse from the hot smell occasioned by the fer- menting herbage, and the owner has often com- plained to me, that his cattle did not thrive oa soiling, without knowing the cause ; this it is, much 96 STATISTICAL SURVEY much more frequently than from too small St quantity. Mutton, whose fat is yellow, frequently occurs in this county, but is not peculiar to it, as I have observed it in every part of Ireland, and often in Dublin markets, where some squeamish people ob- ject to it ; but, if fat, it is equally good as any mut- ton, perhaps better. The cause of this colour has not perhaps been satisfactorily ascertained ; it cannot be the food, as has been often said, for the fat of all the sheep on the same pasture would receive the same tinge ; if it is from disorder, as has been contended, it must be one, that is not hurtful, as they fatten well, and on opening them no sign of disorder appears, as in the rot ; a butcher in Ennis informed me it was certainly in the breed. In Guernsey, I am informed, the fat of both caitle and sheep is of a yellow colour, and remarkably well flavoured. Markets or Fairs for them. The principal markets for fat cattle are Cork* and Limerick ; a few years back, an attempt was made * In the second part of Mr. Young's Tour in Ireland, he states the average value of the exports of pasturage, consisting of beef, butter, candles, hides, tallow, livestock, and cheese, ending in 1777, to be annually, 1,218,902/.; this must be considered as the exports of Ire- land at large. Since that thf>re has been a great, encrease, for in the OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 97 made to establish one at Clare, connected with a commercial house at Liverpool, but from some un- fortunate circumstance it failed ; if successful, it would have benefited the country very much. As the demand at these markets depends almost en- tirely on the continuance of war, it becomes fre- quently very precarious, and fluctuating in its effects between riches and ruin. If contracts are made by commercial houses in England, agents attend the fairs in November and December, and gene- rally give good prices ; if a peace is expected, or, as has been the case in 1806, the merchants are com- bined, the graziers are completely at their mercy, and suffer not only every kind of gross indignity of treatment from these great men, but suffer serious losses from the cheating of every person concerned in slaughtering these cattle. As it is scarcely known in other parts of the kingdom, it may be at least amusing to detail the business a little. The grazier finding no agent attending the fairs to buy, (ex- cept some trusty friend of the merchants, who reads a letter from Cork or Limerick, stating the rumours of a peace, or the expected very low price, is o obliged the city of Cork alone there were slaughtered in 1806 fifty thousand oxen and cows, which, valued at only 15/. each, make, for them alone, 750,000/. — He also states the value of pigs, at the same period, to be 150,631/. whilst Cork alone in 1806 exported one hundred and fifty thousand pigs j and as few are exported but those of large size, the value may be estimated to be at least 300,000/. 9S STATISTICAL SURVEY obliged to drive his cattle to either of these markets-; after driving them into either of these towns he waits upon the great man, and with all humility begs to know, if he wants any fat cattle ; after a good deal of pretended hurry of business, and wait- ing for a repetition of the question, f* he believes * he shall not want any thing more than what he has already engaged, but to oblige Mr. • he will endeavour to make room for them ; as to the price, it is to be regulated by what any other grazier receives." When this is settled, he must drive his beasts to a slaugbter-house, many of which are, erected for this purpose; he pays for this a high price, and must give also the heads and offal ; h& must sit up all night, superintending the slaugh- tering, and must silently observe every species of fraud committed by the very woftt kind of butchers ; for, as has frequently happened, if resentful language is used to those scoundrels, they begin to whet their knives, and put themselves in an assassinating atti- tude ; this in a slaughter-house at night, and amongst the horrid scene of carnage around him, requires po small share o£ nerves. Next morning, without taking any rest, he must bring his meat to the cutters-up ; here, unless they are fee'd, begins the second part of the fraud he has to suffer ; first they take for their perquisite several pounds of his best beef, and, if he has cows, unless they are well paid 5 OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 99 paid, will cut away large quantities of the udder, which they call offal, and which is the property of the merchant,, though he pays nothing for it. The merchant also gets the tongue, and, if the grazier wants a few, must beg them at the rate of at least three shillings each. The third scene begins at the scales; here another perquisite must be paid, and much good meat is refused, because truly it should be a few pounds less than the stipulated weight per beast ; a« appeal then is made to the great man ; ^ he is gene out," " he won't be home to-night," <( he is so busy he can't be seen ;" at length per- haps he is visible, and, when matters are explained, " Really Sir I do not wish to take your cattle ; the prices I receive in England are so low, I shall lose by my contract ; suppose you would try if you cao do better elsewhere, but I will agree to take your beef, though below the weight, if you make the terms lower." The grazier has now no redress, and must agree to any terms : the business does not end here; then he enquires what mode of pay- ment ; bills at ninety-one days are the best terms he can get. lie then applies to a chandler to buy his fat ; when this is settled, the tanner must be waited on, and here, as well as with the chandler, bills at a long date are the only payment he can receive, and, as they are generally men of small or $o capital, if their speculations should not succeed, i., r 'V P 2 their 1 Lor C. iOO STATISTICAL SURVEY their bills are worth little. This is but a small part of the gross indignities the grazier has to suffer ; he has to transact a business totally foreign to his habits of life, consequently unable to cope with those, who from their infancy are used to the tricks practised in this business, and therefore able to avoid them or turn them perhaps to their own benefit. The price de- pends not only on the causes before mentioned, but on the size of the beast, those of a large size bringing more per cwt. than those of a smaller one, which is a premium on large bone, and cows are alwajs lower in price than oxen, though they are sent to England in the same packages, and, if fat, go as the best beef called planters mess. During the negotiations for peace with France in the autumn of 1806, the expectation, not the hope, of a favourable issue prevented speculations, and de- termined both buyers and sellers to suspend them until the fair of Ballinasloe in October, or the result of Lord Lauderdale's negociation should transpire. The next fair of any note is Clonroad near Ennis, on the 13th of October; at this fair the sales for fat cattle generally begin, and they end at Six- mile-bridge, on the fifth of December ; any, that remain unsold after that period, are sent to Cork or Limerick. There is a curious circumstance attending the laying in of store cattle in May, the price given then OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 101 then depending entirely on the sales for fat cattle the preceding winter ; it is not easy to account for this on any other principle, than that a good price for the fat cattle puts a man in cash, and of course in good spirits, which opens the heart, but sometimes also blinds the judgment ; for, what have the sales or prices of a consumed commodity to do with that, which is to be consumed in twelve months after? The price almost entirely depending on the buyers, and on fortuitous circumstances, there can be no pos- sible clue to guide a man. The long faces at the fair of Ballinasloe in October on the news of a peace plainly proved, that the prices of a former had no effect on those of this year. The graziers may justly accuse me of great presumption j but it is the duty of every person engaged in the survey of a county to state what appears to be the customs of it, and to venture an opinion on their good or bad tendency ; if it has no other effect, it may make them think on subjects, which it is highly probable they have handed down to them from their great grandfather, without adverting to a change of sentiment, that has taken place in England, and which appears to have a just foundation. As an instance of the force of habit on men ignorant of what is doing elsewhere, I have not met a single grazier in the county, that did not laugh at the i at 5l. per acre. It is not a little extraordinary, that so bad a kind as couch- grass (triticum repens) should be esteemed by many as a very valuable corcass meadow-grass. These rich lands are apt to be filled with rushes, where they are neglected, and chiefly where heavy cattle are permitted to go in winter ; I should think sheep at that seasdn should be the only stock permitted to pasture on ground of so very tender a surface. Mr. Singleton, who rents large tracts of these lands from Sir Edward O'Brien, has nearly destroyed rushes by constantly digging them up, as soon as they appear. The grasses, that predominate on those rich lands, are, Poa trivialis, Common meadow-grass. Triticum repens, Couch-grass. Cynosurus cristatus, Crested dog's-tail or thraneens. Trifolium OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. II? Trifolium pratense, Red clover. Trifolium repens, White clover. Bromus mollis, Soft brome-grass. A vena elatior, Tall oat-grass. Lolium perenne, Ray -grass. Holcus lanatus, Meadow soft-grass. Hordeum pratense, Meadow barley. Agrostis stolonifera, Creeping bent-grass. There are some more kinds, that I could not ascertain, but the above are the most numerous ; here, where I expected to have found the alope- curus pratensis in great perfection, I could not discover a single plant ; it flowers so early it might have escaped me, for it was September when I was there ; dactylis glomerata or rough cock's- foot- grass was very rare. As there are many very infe- rior kinds for meadow in the list, for instance, (jouch-grass, crested dog's-tail, soft brome-grass, meadow barley, and creeping bent-grass, it shews what luxuriance can effect ; for they were here so totally changed by it, that they were in general •upwards of three feet high ; any person, who has jeen the creeping bent-grass growing in worn-out dry soils, will scarcely credit this. There is a plant, which the inhabitants call lutther, growing in rivers of slow current or in stagnant pools, which produces extraordinary effects ; cows almost dry^ put into a field near where this plant grows, almost immedi- ately 120 STATISTICAL SURVEY afce fy g* ve a great quantity of milk ; but they must be watched, for it has the same dangerous effect of every other kind of luxuriant green food, if eaten ] in too great quantities at once. On this plant geese grow to a large size, and become exceedingly fat and well flavoured in a short time, and make every exertion to procure it. Sect. 6. Artificial Grasses. Except by a very few spirited individuals, arti- ficial grasses are scarcely known in the county ; red clover and ray-grass are the only kinds, that are propagated ; even those in small quantities, and seldom used, as they ought, for soiling in the house. Indeed, until a more enlightened period arrives, tbey are the only kinds I would recommend to farmers ; gentlemen may, and should try every va- riety, that usefulness or whim has introduced. In tbis number, velcbes for soiling in the house will be found a most useful plant, because, though they aFe a valuable plant on the best soils, they will thrive on those, that have been impoverished by repeated corn crops, and, if sowed thick enough, (four bushels to the acre,) they will leave the ground in the cleanest state, and sufficiently ameliorated by their shade to produce a crop of clover and ray-grass ; in worn-out ground they have been tried against a fallow, and the OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. I2i the wheat has been ' always better than after the fallow. They should not be cut at random, as too often is the practice with all soiling crops, but a swath cut from end to end of the field in the di- rection the' future ridges are to run, and this mode followed in each successive cutting, by which ma- nagement the clover and grass-seeds may be sown in parallelograms, without waiting, as usually prac- tised, until the whole field is cut : there will be an advantage in thus sowing daily ; the seed will be de- posited in earth fresh stirred, which is a matter of no small moment in all crops, especially those sowed in dry weather. In the use of clover for soiling great waste is usually made, by delaying the cut- ting, until it is in flower, sometimes much later, when the stalks get hard, (this season will answer for hay, but is quite too late for soiling,) and when many of the bottom leaves are rotten, and the sap is wasted in producing that, which cattle seldom eat, unless pinched by hunger, and the greater part is often thrown on the dunghill. In feeding pigs this waste is particularly remarkable ; for, in- stead of eating all parts of the plant, as they would do, if given in a more succulent state, they only chew it, and often sucking the juices throw it out of their moutha in dry hard pellets ; on the con- trary, when it is given in a young state, every particle is greedily devoured. To use this most R . valuable 122 STATISTICAL SURVEY valuable crop to the greatest advantage, the field should be divided into about thirty-two divisions, (a mathematical exactness is by no means neces- sary ;) this allows every second cutting to be about a month old, which in good ground will be sufficiently long for the scythe, and, if the length of each cutting is added together, it will be found much greater than that cut for hay ; to enjoy the full advantage of the soiling system, the first cutting mustte made, when the clover is about four inches long ; to many this may appear a great waste of food, but they will find the full benefit of it at the end of a month ; this should be practised, even if the clover was thrown on the dunghill ; it is almost needless to remark, that the ground should be well cleared from stones, and well rolled. Unless hay is scarce, or some other strong circumstance makes it necessary, soiling in the house, with this or any other green food, will be found not only more economical in its consumption, but infinitely more beneficial in its effects on the land, by the great quantity of manure that will be made, if proper care is taken to supply litter or dry turf-mould abundantly. At Dromoland, in the middle of Sep- tember, I saw the second cutting of coarse grass, from plantations and wood-lawns, given to eleven working oxen and thirteen horses in the house ; they had been fed for upwards of two months in this manner with OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 123 with what in most places is generally permitted to rot on the ground, and becomes a nuisance to any well kept place; this feeding may be very mode- rately valued at 8.?. per month for the oxen* and 16*. for the horses, in all 29/. 12s. ; a considerable quantity also of vetches, clover, Swedish and Norfolk turnips, are cultivated in a masterly style at Dromoland. White English hay-seed, holcus lanatus, is the kind very generally sowed, frequently the sweepings of the hay-lofts of inns ; for few gen- tlemen or farmers have an idea of saving their hay- seed in their stables, all is swept out in the dung, that is not eaten by the horse in the manger. This last kind of hay-seed, if produced from clean meadows, and well cleaned before sowing, is greatly superior to the former kind, (holcus lanatus,) which is of a very inferior quality, as it not only retains the dews very long in its woolly leaves, and retards the hay- making, but, when made into hay, is soft like tow ; the quantity of seed it bears is the only recommendation ; even this is very easily lost in the making, unless uncommon care is taken. This is usually the first grass produced naturally in reclaimed bog, and is of use, until it gives place to a better ; another kind of grass, also naturally produced in reclaimed bog, is the sweet vernal grass, (anthoxanthum odoratum,) and is of still less value. White clover is sowed only by a few gen^ R 2 tie men 124 STATISTICAL SURYEY tlemen to lay down their lawns, for which put- pose it is peculiarly well adapted, as in the driest weather it retains its verdure, and, if any patches should fail, it will supply the deficiency by its creeping roots. Red and white clover succeed admirably well, when sowed with flax ; the superiority of the pre- paration ensures a good crop, and the upright growth of the flax not only shades it from the sun, whilst in its tender state, but the pulling of the flax destroys any young annual weeds, and does no injury to the long tup-rooted clover. Mr. O'Brien of Cratilow mowed clover twice this year, 1807, for hay, the last cutting in September; I imagine it would have been more profitably applied in soiling, especially where meadow was plenty. Sir Edward O'Brien, Mr. Boyle Vandeleur, Mr. Colpoys, Mr. Burton of Clifden, the Rev. Frederick Blood, and Captain Palliser are amongst the fe\\\ who sow clover or any other green crop. There has been a kind of ray-grass lately brought from England, called Pacey's, from the farmer in Northumberland, who first collected it from amongst the common kind. It possesses the following pro- perties : first, it requires less seed to the acre, on account of its tillering or propagating at the root more than the common kind ; secondly it ripens two or OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 125 or three weeks earlier, and should be cut at least that much sooner ; thirdly, it will sustain more stock, which should be always put on earlier than on the common, before the stems get hard, and then the harder stocked, in reason, the better ; fourthly, it is known by a darker hue than the common kind in the field; two bushels to the acre will be sufficient. Sect. 7. Mode of II ay -making. There are few agricultural practices, in which this county is more defective, than in hay-making, except in very few instances, and those I fear accidental ; I never saw what I would esteem well- saved hay ; the cutting is almost always too long delayed ; if the weather is dry and sunny, it is turned so frequently, that it is completely bleached and sapless ; even in this state, instead of making it into tramp-cocks, or drawing it home, it is the com* mon practice to throw it iqto small cocks of about a hundred weight, in which it lies perhaps for a fortnight or more to soak, and probably at the end of this period it is again turned, and made into the same-sized cocks for another fortnight, thus receiving every shower at the top and sides, and, if in bottom meadows, damaged underneath. The farmers say their hay would heat, if put up sooner, not considering, that hay, until it ferments moderate! v. 126 STATISTICAL SURVEY moderately, has not arrived to a state of perfection ; but if a farmer, on putting his hand into a cock, finds it the least warm, all his men are immediately summoned, and the hay is unfortunately spread out again to be sunned. I would by no means recom- mend that high state of fermentation, which turns the hay brown, and which English obstinacy in some counties prefers to green hay, but that, which gives the saccharine fermentation, and delightful perfume, without injuring that fine green colour, without which no hay can be good. If the grass is cut with rain or dew on it, it should be immediately well shaken by hand after the mow- ers, and in about two hours should be turned ; after remaining about the same length of time, it should be made into small grass-cocks, without per- mitting the dew to fall on it, and made on a smaller base than the slovenly practice of this county dic- tates; for this purpose the bottom should be well pulled, and the handfuls laid across each other on the top to help to throw off wet; if put up dry, it may remain two days in these cocks ; then, if the outsides are dry, three rows should be brought into one, which may be easily done by a man sticking his fork with long prongs (which by the bye I never saw in this county) into the cocks, and carrying them into the middle row ; there should be people stationed to shake out the hay imme* diately OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 127 diately with their hands ; in about two hours it should be turned, and, after lying about the same time, made into field cocks of about a ton each. This method is calculated for dry weather ; if it is showery, the process must be more tedious, but in this county it is always more so than it need be. Every attentive farmer should go frequently through his field cocks, and try, by putting his hand in a good way, if the proper degree of fermenta- tion is going on; if the heat (which is seldom the case) is too great, the cock must be taken down, and instantly remade. If the grass is perfectly dry, when cut, there is no necessity for throwing it out of the swath until the following day, when the dew has evaporated, and the same process pursued as just now advised. This mode to an Englishman would appear tedious and unnecessary, but the grass in this moist climate is much more succulent, and there is not that drying quality in the air, that prevails in England ; even here in some dry up- lands, where the grass is thin, and the weather very hot, much of this turning may and ought to be omitted, for I would guard against the sun-beams as much as against rain. It is astonishing, how careless the proprietors of meadows subject to be flooded are ; scarcely a year passes that immense quantities of hay are not spoiled by neglecting to draw it to high ground : they also suffer 1 28 STATISTICAL SURVEY suffer great losses by permitting their hay to remain too long in the field after having been made into cocks. In a country, where hay is so valuable, one would imagine a more careful management would be pursued. I have seen hay* more than once in the same season, caught by floods, yet still per- mitted to remain. The method, pursued in the north of Ireland, of making their hay into small lap-cocks, is a very superior one; but the mode I have presumed to suggest is more likely to be adopted, and will not alarm their prejudices so much, as directions how to make their hay into muffs. The lazy custom of shaking out hay with forks should never be permitted ; the hands will do it much more ef- fectually. When hay is in a fit state to make into tramp- cocks, it is an excellent method to draw it home to the stack-yard and make it into the same kind of cocks; these should be ranged on each side of the place intended for the rick, and will save a great deal of labour in pitching, &c. Circumstances will often occur, such as a continuance of wet weather, want of hands, &c. &c. when some devi- ation from the method prescribed must be made, but the nearer it can be approached, the better. Considerable injury is done not only to the crop, but to the ground, by the universal practice of OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 129 mowing too late in the season ; if grass is let in corn acres, it is invariably deferred to a very late period, frequently the end of October. I have seen several fine corcass meadows, that were fit to cut in June, mowing in October; by this means the hay was not only greatly injured in its quality, (the bottom being quite decayed,) but there was a loss of the after-grass, which often lets for a guinea per acre on those meadows, that are cut in July, and finish cattle of the largest size for Limerick market. A gentleman in the county of Mayo has put an excellent plan into practice to prevent this wretched mode ; he lets his grass to be cut the first of August, at which time, or be- fore he knows it will be fit, he receives one-third earnest, which is forfeited, if the meadow is not cut before the first of September ; this practice deserves universal adoption, for the sake of both buyer and seller. Sect. 8. Dairies — their produce and management. Except near the town of Ennis, few regular dai- ries are kept, such as may be found in many parts of Leinster ; but a few farmers and cottiers supply the neighbouring villages with milk and butter. A good quantity of butter is sent to Limerick from Ennis, it is mostly produced near Clare and Bar- s rentick ; J 30 STATISTICAL SURVEY rentick ; lately a good quantity has been sent from Kilrush. h\ Ennis the new milk is usually from $d. to \s. id. per pottle of eight quarts, and fourteen quarts per pottle of thick milk, from which the cream has been skimmed, for 8d.* In this county they churn only the cream, by which means what they call buttermilk (but it is only thick skimmed milk) is not so good as in Leinster. From the general goodness of the pasture and the breed of cattle, the milk gives a large portion of butter : there is nothing particular in the method of making butter ; they have the vile practice, in common with the rest of Ireland, of putting too much hot water to the milk, whilst churning in winter, to hasten the process ; instead of this, the churn should be placed in a vessel of warm water some time before churn- ing, which would not injure the colour of the butter. In summer, when the mistress is not too fine a lady to pay attention to her dairy, the butter is usu- ally very good ; but I have met some ladies, who, so as their butter was made very pale-coloured, seemed to overlook the bad flavour proceeding from dirty vessels, and praised it highly ! It is produced in such various quantities, depending so much on breed, food, good milking, and dairy management, that any guess at the quantity would be ridiculous. A few farmers near towns hire their cows to their tenants, * Strange as it may appear, this is the usual measure. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 131 tenants, whose wives retail the milk ; they usually receive five or six guineas per annum for each, and it is said the retailer, with the black cow's milk, (\vater>) is able to make 12/. per annum of the compound, if the cow is tolerably good. Farmers generally have from four to eight ; scarcely a cottier without a cow, some two, besides their succession. Almost every farmer has some butter to spare ; it is sent to Ennis, and from thence to Limerick for exportation ; it is packed in tubs of twenty-one and nineteen inches, and in firkins. Considerable quantities of sheep's milk are mixed with that of cows for the Ennis market, and those, who practise this deception, will not purchase any ewes but those, that are likely to help the pail. The filthy custom of permitting the calf to suck two teats, whilst the dairy-maid is emptying the other two, prevails here as well as in the county of Galway ; this delicate custom has cer- tainly economy to plead in its favour, as the drib- bling milk from the calf's mouth is caught in the milk-pail ; in some places the calf gets the fore- milk, in others he gets the last, or the strippings.* Very little cheese is made in this county, and that little very indifferent ; cream-cheese is some- s 2 times * The difference between cream or butter produced from strip- pings or last-milk, and that from the fore-milk, is from sixteen to one, and at the lowest eight to one, according to the goodness of th« cow. 132 STATISTICAL SURVEY times made, but, as the butter is the perquisite of the lady, it is only on state days this luxury makes its appearance, and then it generally wants ripeness. Butter may be preserved sweet for several years by the following receipt ; it never gets hard or brittle, but stili looks like butter just taken from the churn ; it must not be used for a month after making. 10 ounces of common salt, made very fine. 2 do. salt-petre. 2 do. best brown sugar. They must be well mixed together ; to each pound of butter add one ounce of this mixture; it must be well worked up, packed close, and well kept. Sect. 9. Price of hides, tallow, wool, and quantity sold. The greater part of the hides are sent to Ennis, and* any overplus to Limerick ; a good quantity is also bought at Kilrush for the same market : as there is no regular crane for weighing, and they are sent by boats from every little village on the Shannon, from Carrigaholt-bay to Limerick, there is no possibility of ascertaining the quantity ; but it is generally imagined there has been a consider- able encrease within the last twenty years ; they are sold for from 2s. to 5s. per stone, and always from 3tf. to 6d, under the Limerick prices ; a higher price OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 133 is always given for ox than for cow-hides. Tallow is generally from Ss. to lis. per stone of 16 lbs., and any redundancy is sent to Limerick. In the year 1802 there were sent in Christmas week, from the little village of Carrigaholt to Lime- rick, twenty-six hides, an uncommon quantity for so remote a place, and for one so apparently poor ; since that, the quantity sent to Kilrush and Lime- rick has greatly encreased. Wool sent to Ballinasloe in 1806 sold for 20s. per stone of 16 lbs., and in 1807 for about the same ; some superior samples brought a higher price, and those of an inferior kind much less. It is im- possible to ascertain the quantity sent from this county ; but when the great quantity of land, oc- cupied by sheep, is considered, it must be very considerable, for in the barony of Burrin alone it is estimated at nearly 10,000 acres. Buyers from Cork and Limerick generally go to the graziers' houses, and make such bargains as they can, and pay in bills at various dates ; this is a much better method for buyer and seller, than losing their time and money by striving to tire each other into a sale, as is practised at Ballinasloe at the wool fair in July. It is perfectly ridiculous to see sensible men walking about the streets of Ballinasloe, the buyers at one side, and the sellers at the other, for often six weeks or more ; this has been carried so 134 STATISTICAL SURVEY far sometimes, that the buyers have made parties to take a tour to Killamey or elsewhere for a fort- night or more, thinking to tire the sellers into a bargain. Some regulations have lately been adopted, which, it is hoped, will be for mutual benefit; perhaps an auction, as has been practised lately in Dublin for South Down wool, would be the best method. CHAP. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 135 CHAP. IV. FARMS. Sect. l'« Their size. THE size of farms varies greatly ; those under tillage from one or two to fifty acres, but of the latter size there are but few ; those devoted to rearing and feeding sheep are usually from one hundred to three hundred, and a few six hundred. or eight hundred acres. When very rocky, they are sometimes let by the bulk, and not by the acre, but the landlord generally knows the number of acres, that each farm contains. Where farms are too small to employ a pair of horses or oxen constantly, and too large to be cultivated by the spade, the occupiers are generally in a most un- comfortable situation, and, it being too much the wish of every cottier to become a small farmer, be passes from a state of comparative comfort to one of wretchedness. A labourer should have as much ground, as will give him plenty of grass for a cow, and an abundant supply of potatoes and vegetables, but the moment he goes further, adieu 136 STATISTICAL SURVEY adieu to all comfort. If by great industry or some lucky circumstance he becomes possessed of as much money as will stock a farm well, then in- deed he may indulge this propensity of all poor men ; but mountain of all others is the place he should turn his thoughts to, and of which he may always procure any quantity on reasonable terms. Much has been said and written in England on the proper size of farms, and a great deal to very little purpose, but to expose their ignorance of the subject; the endeavouring to establish this agrarian system is something akin to the ridiculous proposals of some of our wise legislators to fix a maximum for the price of grain : how they would shake their noddles, if the farmers had meetings to fix the maximum of rent ? The pocket can be the only barometer, and will settle the proper size, of farms much better than these theoretical agri- culturists : to hear such proposals in a country, where every man has the most unlimited controul over the disposal of his property, is astonishing ; I have touched on this subject in another place. Our farmers are generally very deficient in capital, and of course pursue a very deteriorating system of cropping; it is too much the custom, even when they do by the utmost household economy save a little money, to hoard it up, especially in guineas, instead of expending it on draining, or any other permanent • OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 137 permanent improvement. I am confident, that since the last disturbances a great part of the gold coin of the realm is hid in smoky cabins. One of the great distinctions between Irish and English peasants is, in the Irishman appearing much poorer than he really is, (though he is poor enough,) and on the contrary the Englishman shewing in his habitation a degree of comfort he does not possess, merely from the superior cleanliness of his cottage and his family. Mr. Young, in his Tour in Ireland, vol. 2. part 2d, p. 33, Irish edition, makes this very just discrimi- nation, and I believe it will be admitted, that few persons knew the habits of the English people better; he says, (Xf)(»XCO T-< T-1 «"NO^H«« TX HN«|ooMao«|»^:»Mo»")|ooi«sh-"<|oo».(ooMi»HaOM|l»H|*co|oo'o|l* <«H-Hx H» H+ «|X f-,|X h|0C --|+ -|X H« -|* w|N «iX BlW- roft «(N «t»«|00 t- t~ a. co r-i ■* o (o --r o) a> co co t- -cf co — G> Q> CO CO iTi -* -* CO -* 10 rl THH>HrH«-*rHOlW H •a£puq-s t u9ug; ( o •}35{JEUIAi3^; 'iBqpi\[-u4Vo;[ii^ •J0UBDSJ7 •jpuaai|1 wft- m|+ Mn -|lx ">M- CO CO ri +|«|N1» «|N "l+"*0-!X">!X <"*m+H+ o c ■* V-? iX3 »n d a. o t- ^ (s -t o rHl-H ri r.Ml«a-*r(HS fC!»m|X"MX^,X^:x-|»n'.|rtT-lxHM"M- -IN"**- NC«3<.1l-H|x~>H-H«-«|x H«^«l«^Ha 00 a, cot-i-iv^-it-coct- CO CO rl r- rl CO vj< C^-cfCO -|k -|x -|« ">M- rc|x «l* -IX .-i» Ha M|oo "il* CO T— t- 'O Ci CO CN O C* O t- T-irlOlririC0r-lC0-J7^^*H3i":|» -- CI O •* - 10 O « I- m|X"Mx ctto HaMNH+^lx t-»OC0i-i-*t-CO«5t- COCOCSiCOCStCOCN-tfet «*r «h- -In -In -m» ~v( that these tithes are always more rigidly exacted than those in the hands of the clergy. One lay pro- prietor alone has upwards of \OQOL per annum $ and exacts a tenth of every thing. One clergy- man thinks, " that no more eligible mode than " tithes can be devised for the maintenance of tiie " clergy; they rise or fall in their value in pro- " portion to the population of the country, and. " the encrease or diminution of the value of money. 2 c ".The 194 STATISTICAL SURVEY from 202 STATISTICAL SURVEY from every body corporate, who shall have lands in said county, and every gentleman, who had ever served the office of high sheriff, or at any time of his life been a grand juror: these qualifications will embrace the greatest part of the property and respectability of each county, and will con- sequently embrace the persons most interested in such survey, and most likely to act with upright- ness and impartiality. Such committee to be sum- moned by the sheriff to assemble at the grand jury room, eleven to constitute a quorum, the custos rotulorum or senior magistrate then present to be chairman, the clerk of the peace to act as secre- tary. Such committee and secretary to be sworn to execute the trust reposed in them to the best of their skill and judgment, and without favour, partiality, or affection. Such committee to have power to elect any persons not exceeding six in number, who, though not possessed of the qualifi- cations aforesaid, may be deemed from other con- siderations useful members of the committee. The formation of such committee and the duties imposed upon it will necessarily force its members into the investigation and consideration of subjects, which, notwithstanding their vital importance, have been too much neglected by them ; in fact our country gentlemen too universally give up their time before dinner to their stables, kennels, and the sports of the OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 203 the field, and after dinner, whilst the bottle cir- culates, the conversation is in general solely occu- pied with these topics, interspersed with anecdotes not much calculated to improve their morals or their understanding." He next states the neces- sity of a survey of the county little different from that adopted by the Dublin Society. He states that, according to his calculation, 700,000/. will be fully adequate for the support of the clergy of the three persuasions, and for compensating the lay improprietors, supposing the rental of Ireland to be 15,000,000/.; if so, a tax of eleven pence in the pound only will be necessary. Glebes are to be purchased, and glebe-houses built, the remainder of the income to be received in cash. Any cler- gyman, who shall be absent from his glebe-house for more than sixty-one days (taken collectively) during any year, to forfeit his living, unless com- pelled by ill health to visit a more genial climate. The necessity, the indispensable necessity of these or similar provisions, for re-establishing the reign of religion in Ireland, is too obvious to be in- sisted on. " For the support of the Roman Catholic clergy it is proposed to divide Ireland into 1050 districts; each Catholic priest would then have a range of about five miles in diameter committed to his charge ; to be assisted in the more populous parts of Munster, 2 D 2 Connaught, 204 STATISTICAL SURVEY Con naught, and Leinster with 300 curates ; also that the habitations of the parochial clergy shall be buils by presentment, and have twenty-five acres of ground attached to each of them. He proposes a change of titles from the present ones to that of Patriarch of Ireland, Exarch, Vice Provost, Provost, with a liberal allowance from 1600/. to 250/. according to their rank, all to be nominated by the crown ; the parochial clergy also to be nominated by the crown, but the Exarch or Provost, in whose district the vacancy may occur, to have a power of returning the names of those or more clergymen, one of whom it shall be obligatory on the crown to nominate to such vacancy." M For the support of the Presbyterian clergy, their incomes to be raised to 400/. the highest, and de- scending to 150/. the least, their colleagues to have 75/." The pamphlet, from which I have taken the above extracts, contains 116 pages, and is highly deserving of attention ; I regret, that the limits of this work prevent a more copious extract from it on a subject of the utmost moment, and one, that has had its crisis hastened by avarice and pride. Sect. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 205 Sect. 6. Use of beer and spirits, whether either or which is encreasing. There is a great decrease in the consumption of whiskey; the poorer classes have little to spare for drams, as the fortunate rise in the price puts them in a great measure out of their power ; I fear to this only is the change to be imputed, for, though there is no licenced distillery in the county, the private stills abound in every direction, but the price is not lowered to the consumer, the publican receiving the benefit of the rise in price. The abolition of the distilleries, except those of great magnitude, has been of no use to any person but the owners of private stills. In the year 1800 the consumption of spirits decreased astonishingly ; the price was above the reach of the generality, which in some measure weaned them from its use : this, with the high price for agricultural produce, enabled the small farmers to pay high rents, and to lay up guineas in some smoky corner \ but, as whiskey is now cheaper, and agricultural produce still high, the use of spirits is rather more frequent. A drunken gentleman is now happily a rarity, and the lower classes are nearly as soberly inclined. Fairs and markets are almost the only places, that drunken- ness prevails in, but it generally ends in a few broken 206 STATISTICAL SURVEY broken heads, and often a little swearing before a magistrate ; matters are generally accommodated by the friends of the parties. The destruction of the distilleries had not the effect, that the legislature intended, but a quite^ contrary one ; for private stills are now more nu- merous than ever, and more whiskey is made than in the former distilleries. It has also almost ruined the revenue of the county, for in 1 80$, before this ill- advised abolition, it was upwards of 36,000/. ; there were five distilleries and two breweries ; the former have disappeared, and only one petty brewery re- mains, and, though there has been a great encrease of the stamp duty, window-tax, hearth-money, and other taxes, the present revenue is short of 10,000/. The beer or ale of this county is a most abo- minable compound, indeed not worse than the trash made in almost every part of Ireland ; it is asto- nishing how those of better rank can taste it, but habit will lower the palate down to any standard of depravity ; happily the brewers are gradually receiving their just punishment, in the encreasing use of water at table in preference to their poi- sonous mixtures. It is not a little surprizing that, some one honest brewer does not break through this combination against the health of the public, and brew, as formerly, pale ale with hops and mak alone ; but they have been so long used to drugs I suppose OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 207 I suppose they have lost the art: if such a man could be found, an ample fortune would attend him. It is very extraordinary, that those, who are fond of good and wholesome beer, do not brew for themselves, for, independent of having a whole- some beverage, they would have what is very dif- ficult to be procured, good barm, which, as every family must bake, becomes a matter of no small moment; from want of this indispensable ingredient, heavy unwholesome bread may frequently be seen at the tables of the rich, though, where it can be procured, the bread of this county is generally ex- cellent. Potatoe-barm is very much used, but from frequent mistakes in the process it often fails. The following receipt has been given to me by a lady, who has constantly used it with great success. Add flour to beer until of the consistence of batter, to a quart of this put a table-spoon-full of good brown sugar, set it in a warm place, but not near the fire, shake it twice a day ; it will be fit for use in eight days. Sect. 7. State of roads, bridges, Kc. S(c. This is a subject, on which I dare scarcely trust my pen; I had frequently he?^d, before I came into the county, that many abuses existed in the ma- nagement of roads, and that, as in every other public 208 STATISTICAL SURVEY public work, jobbing was practised, but I consi- dered such information as somewhat exaggerated} but, since I have been an eye-witness to the num- berless abuses, that present themselves in every part of the county, I do not hesitate to declare, that the most barefaced and infamous system of road-jobbing prevails in every barony. What are we to think, when it is well known, that three presentments have been obtained for the same number of perches of road, but in different perjured names : that it is a common and well known agreement between land- lord and tenant, that a higher rent shall be paid for a farm on account of using influence to obtain presentments at an exorbitant rate for the tenant : that roads are frequently made, where they are entirely useless, merely to throw money into the pocket of some poor relation, favourite, or person, to whom debts were due ? It will scarcely be credited, but not the less true, that a grand juror asked, and was actually paid 30/. for using his in- fluence in procuring a presentment. A friend of mine was present, when a poor tenant offered a very high rent for a small farm, " because he knew his honour would get him a bit of a presentment every year;" and his honour* promised to do so. In accounting for presentments the most bare- faced * There is no part of Ireland, where this poor word is more prostituted. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 209 iaced perjury is well known to be used ; new roads, that have a small quantity of earth or bog thrown up from the ditch on either side, and covered with an inch or two of clay, which they have the assur- ance to call gravel or sand, are always sworn to be faithfully and honestly executed. Frequently an affidavit is made, that a road is made with small stones and gravel ; the small stones are as large as a man's head, and the gravel is a whitish clay; they swear, that a sufficient passage is left for the water on each side of the road, yet frequently it is co-r vered with it, and impassable. The most shocking perjuries are used in the affidavit to obtain the pre- sentment ; two credible persons swear, that a certain sum per perch is the least it can be effectually exe- cuted for, whilst they well know, that half the money would be more than sufficient. I have scarcely seen any road, that could not be repaired and effectually gravelled for 4s. 4d. per perch, fourteen feet wide, and allowing the gravel -pit to be half a mile from the road ; yet many receive for the most ill-con- trived roads covered with clay, thrown out of the gripe on each side, upwards of 5s. 5d. per perch, and sworn to. It is a well-known fact, that am*- davits for presentments are often signed by ma- gistrates without having been sworn, and some gen- tlemen would reckon themselves ill-used, if they 2 e were 210 STATISTICAL SURVEY were asked to swear, and probably a message might be the consequence.* A few days before the assizes in August 1806, I saw a road mending with six or eip-ht inches of absolute clay, laid on at once, in which my horse sunk almost to his knees, yet the overseer swore it was repaired with gravel or small stones, and the tender-hearted conservator repeated the same. I have seen in the barony of Inchiquin a moun- tain road, that was sworn to be made with gravel or small stones &c, and for which the contractor, a gentleman, received 5s. 5d. per perch ; my readers (of any other county) will be astonished, when I inform them, that this road was contracted for by him with his tenants at is. 6d. per perch, and the remainder pocketed by this conscientious gentleman ; the trench on either side of this road consisting of bog was thrown on the centre, and over this a thin covering of soft slate dug up on either side under* the bog, and through which I could not pass in summer, nor was the part', that was finished, of the smallest use, except to his own tenants for drawing home their turf, as but a small portion of the in- tended line was executed. Very frequently a new road * If the judges of assize would insist on all overseers and others concerned in public works taking their oath in open eourt, it would be a means of preventing many horrid perjuries; for it is a dis- graceful fact, that many gentlemen would give their honour in a lie, that would shrink from an oath, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 211 road is made at both ends, and remains unfinished in the middle for many years, though sworn to be passable from one town to another, and the money pocketed. An act of parliament of the present reign gives a power to grand juries to appoint a conservator to each barony or half barony, with a salary of 50/. per annum. It may be necessary to state the duties of the office to shew, that it is impossible any grand jury, consistently with their oath or honesty, could retain them a moment, when it can be proved by ocular demonstration, that they have neglected every part of their duty ; I regret to have to state this very culpable neglect, not to say worse of grand juries. The act states, that his salary shall not be paid until he shall have laid, upon oath before the grand jwy, in a book to be kept for that purpose, a full and exact account of his proceedings, stating when and how often he inspected each road within his district ; what nuisances, encroachments, or breaches of the act he observed ; what remedies he took to remove or punish for the same; what magistates he applied to ; what warrants he received, and what fines he levied ; and whether any and what nuisances, ditches, walls, or houses have been made or built, or pits dug en any road or nearer to the centre than this act permits ; and in general a true and 2 E 2 perfect 212 STATISTICAL SURVEY perfect state of the roads, bridges, and all other works, and matters thereon erected, &c. &c. &,c. Now how is this explicit and solemn promise on oath fulfilled ? In the first place, no such book is kept oy the conservator ; if there were, the leaves would be unsullied, nor are any questions asked by the grand jury; as to nuisances, encroachments on the roads are permitted by both magistrates and conservators ; and whilst Meath and other counties are paying large sums annually to fill in ditches, our conservators permit new ones to be made, sometimes ten feet broad, and as many deep on each side of the road. At the village of Mylaan, in the parish of Cloney, to the southward of O'Brien's castle, the road is cut away on each side so much, that scarcely six feet of it remain. Large stones rolling about the road are overlooked ; turf- stacks and dunghills are permitted to be made close to the read ; bridges and gullets are suffered to remain with dangerous holes for many months ; no magis- trate is ever applied to; no warrants or fines are ever looked for or levied; yet will it be credited, that at every assizes the conservator does, or ought to swear, that he does his duty, and, unless neglected by the contractor, swears that every present- ment is honestly executed ? Is there no spark of honour or even pride in the gentlemen of this county, that permit this stain on their character ? I cannot OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 213 I cannot therefore hesitate to declare, that I reckon conservators as the greatest nuisance in the county. There may be some exceptions to this character, I hope there are; but I confess I have not been fortunate enough to perceive any. The experiment has been tried in the county of Galway, and they were, found so much worse than useless, that they have been laid aside. It will be seen by their oath, that, if they made an honest use of their power, they would be a bles- sing to the county, and their salary would be totally inadequate to the arduous duties of their office; but, were the present set to receive any addition, it would not make them in the least more attentive. Men of a rank in life much above the present men, and totally unconnected with the county, must be appointed, before any beneficial purpose can be effected. To make this useful, (at the same time it would be a great saving to the county,) 200/. per annum would be but a mo- derate allowance for each barony. The conservator should be perfectly well acquainted with the use of a spirit level, and , the most approved method of laying out and making roads, and rendered totally independent of the grand jury in laying out new lines of road. The act of parliament, which enacts that every road shall be finished two days previous to the assizes, is very ill-judged ; each road should be 214 STATISTICAL SURVEY be finished at least one month before the assizes, by which means the conservator, if inclined to do his duty, would have time to inspect every road, and the gentlemen of the neighbourhood, when they grow ashamed of jobbing, could speak as to the manner, in which it is performed, as the road by that time would expose any defects in the execution ; but at present, as so many roads are only finished two days before the assizes, the conservator must have wings to enable him to inspect them all, as some baronies are upwards of twenty miles long and ten broad, yet he swears boldly to the just expenditure of the money for each road. Conservators cannot be contractors for roads, yet it is well known they all are, but in other names. Contractors for roads are great losers by employing cars instead of wheelbarrows, where the distance is short; and as the greater part of the roads of this county are made of the clay (impudently called gravel or sand) thrown out on each side of the road, wheelbarrows would be cheaper than cars. High hedges are permitted in many places to spoil the road; near O'Brien's castle, and near Fountain, there is scarcely room left for a carriage to pass. Part of the road between Kilnorney church and Tomgraney is paved with large stones, not unlike the vile roads of the county of Wexford. Some OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 215 Some roads near Tullagh are repaired with spar from a lead mine, which makes an excellent material. The road between Bunratty and Ralehine, the hill road, is particularly badly made with very large stones, sharp as broken glass bottles, without any covering, of even clay — a most shameful job! Large sums have been expended, indeed thrown away, on lowering hills in various places; half the money, that has been laid out for this childish whim at Fountain, which still remains a difficult, steep, dirty, bad road, would have carried it on a level; but alas ! it would have run through Mr. Daxon's ground : some of the wags of Ennis, with whom it abounds, call this Annuity kill, as for many years back money has been granted for lowering it. At an assizes at Ennis, the payment of a con- servator's salary had been stopped by the judge ; yet at the next assizes it was smuggled in, and granted by a judge ignorant of the former act of justice. Disagreeable as it may sound in the ears of country gentlemen, I am perfectly convinced, (and do not the foregoing facts corroborate it?) that they are in general the most improper persons to ascertain the lines of new roads, that would be most proper for the public benefit ; self is always so much consulted, that every influence is used to obtain the road in the line most convenient to them, totally regardless 216 STATISTICAL SURVEY regardless of the general benefit. I have seen too many instances of this meanness to be mistaken. New roads are almost always laid out by those totally ignorant of the subject. I cannot conceive, Low it is possible any person can mark out a road of several miles, where he has to carry it on a level, and round distant hills, without the assistance of a spirit level ; yet roads are attempted to be made by those, who, so far from knowing the use of one, do not know its name. I shall relate a conversation I overheard, to shew how these things ure usually conducted : the road was intended to be brought on a level for several miles, to prevent the necessity of ascending hills and dipping into deep vallies; the person, whose name was inserted in the presentment, employed another to superintend the work, and who was to receive all the profits. Q. Paddy did you mark out, where the new road is to run ? A. Oh yes Sir, but Biddy Mullowney says she will cleave my skull, if I bring it through her ground; so I turned it up against the hill. Q. Well there is no help for it, it's, no great matter, but where do you go after that? A. To yonder hill, but I don't know, which side is best. (This hill was half a mile off, and through ground so exceedingly undulating, that it would have puzzled even the experienced eye of Major Taylor.) Q, Well you can mark, which side you think there will be the OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 217 the least cutting on, and go on with the rest until I see you next week."-— Thus was this road to be laid out, without even sights, by an ignorant la- bourer, liable to be influenced either by threats or bribes. In my Observations on the County of Dub- lin Survey, page 138, I have expressed my thoughts on this subject in the following words : " When a U- better system of road-making is established, the M enormous waste of the public money, that has " taken place, will be truly astonishing ; and I am " convinced, until a National Board of roads is " established, we never can expect matters to mend ; " for then the grand cause, grand jury jobbing, " will cease, and the conduct be thrown into the " hands of scientific and practical road-makers."* Every thing I have witnessed in this county has tended to confirm me in this opinion still more strongly. A few public-spirited and honest grand jurors have attempted to stem this torrent of peculation, but the consequence has been, that they have been threatened with an opposition to every thing they proposed, and the disgraceful expedient was resorted to, of polling every thing they asked for. One gentleman returned the overplus of a presentment ; 2 f he * I would not have given this extract, but that the book I allude to is in the hands of very few; and county of Clare gentlemen are not much in the habit of reading. 2is STATISTICAL SURVEY he was laughed at by his brother jurors; such is the morality of the county of Clare ! Are in general in tolerable repair. Some of those on the rivers, that run into the Shannon and Fergus, are not built sufficiently high to admit flood-water at spring tides, and are usually made too near the Shannon. Pipes or gullets are usually very badly- made, and highly dangerous, many remaining half open, unnoticed by conservators, and daily passed over by magistrates with unconcern, though they have a power of levying any sum under forty shillings for any sudden failure. I have seen many, that would not have required five shillings to repair if taken in time; but then, if this was done, there would not be a presentment got at the next assizes, of course a job would be lost. A bridge near the old church of Dvsart is in a ruinous way. A new bridge a few perches to the southward of the last bridge is very badly built; it should be re-presented, and the contractor fined. Thomas Studdert, Esq. of Bunratty castle, has built at his own expence a very handsome bridge of one arch over the river Ougarnee ; it cost 2000/. ; the toll is 6d. for a carriage, and Id. for a horse. Mr. D'Esterre has also formerly built a bridge higher U P OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 219 up the river at his own expence, for which he receives a small toll. The enlargement of the bridge of Carrickvicburne, near Tally O'Dea, has been a most shameful job. There are three arches and two pipes, which altogether leave a water-way of about twenty-eight feet, (and little enough for the water of Lough Tedane, to which it is the outlet;) but this, by a most shameful neglect of the magistrates, has been contracted to ten feet by two miserable eel-weirs. The presentment set forth, that on wi- dening the bridge these eel- weirs should be removed, and a bed of rock, that runs across the river, and helped to keep back flood-water on the lough, should be used in building the bridge : but how has this been complied with ? The bed of rocks remains untouched, though very fine building stone ; and, so far from the eel-weirs having been removed, the small stones and rubbish of the building have been thrown into the eel-weirs, and the water kept higher in the lough than it was ever remembered before, and the adjacent meadows and turf-bog completely inundated ; yet the contractor swore to the just expenditure, and was paid, instead of which an indictment should have been preferred against him. 2 f 2 Sect. 220 STATISTICAL SURVEY Sect. 8. Navigations and navigable rivers. The Shannon, which divides this county from those of Limerick, Tipperary, and Kerry, and the Fergus, which is navigable at high water to Clare, are the only navigable rivers. Until lately the na- vigation of the Shannon was incomplete, but by the exertions of the Board of Inland Navigation, aided most ably by Mr. Brownrigg, the difficulties at Killaloe have been overcome, and now the com- munication not only from Dublin to Limerick, a distance of upwards of ninety miles, is completed, but also to the sea, which is sixty miles more. The navigation of this river to the sea is perfectly safe, and vessels of 400 tons can come up to the quay of Limerick. A proposal was made some time since to cut a canal from Poolanishary harbour, about twelve miles from Loophead, across the bog to Dunbeg; this, as the ground is soft and the distance only six miles, could be easily accomplished, and, if for no other purpose, would be highly useful for carrying limestone to improve the bogs ; but whether the idea of uniting the Atlantic to the Shannon in this direction, by a cut large enough for vessels of 300 or 400 tons, as proposed, would be adviseable, I am not competent to say ; if practicable, it would save the sometimes tedious and dangerous passage round Loophead : OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 22i Loopbead: possibly the Atlantic ocean would be a dangerous sea to meddle with, as Dunbeg har- bour is by no means a safe one ; it is, however, the only one between Loophead and the bay of Galway, a distance of upwards of forty miles, ex- cept Liscanor bay, which with its present very useless quay cannot be depended on for any thing but fishing-boats. Another line has been proposed from Skarriff bay, and, running through Lough Graney, to com- municate with the bay of Galway; how far prac- ticable it would be, I am not able to judge. Th$ numerous lakes and rivers in this line would pro- bably afford a very sufficient supply, and as some run to the Shannon, and others to the bay of Gal- way, I should imagine a good summit level could be obtained : whether the probable trade on this line would make a sufficient return, is another ques- tion. Some gentlemen, whose estates are contiguous to this line, are very sanguine about its practica- bility, but too many think, if they only see water, that a canal can be made. One of the most useful articles, that could be carried on this line, would be lime, which abounds at Skarriff at one end, and in the county of Galway at the other; the inter- mediate country by this means could be highly improved, and only wants lime to make it produce abundant crops of corn. . • . I saw m STATISTICAL SURVEY I saw at Killaloe a striking instance of the vast superiority of water carriage over that by land, one man tracking a vessel with upwards of thirty tons of goods ; he told me he was not allowed a horse, except the wind was adverse ; this by the bye must be a wretched economy. The walls of the canal between the entrance from the Shannon and Killaloe are most wretchedly built of water-worn paving stones, and in the most un- substantial manner, resting against a gravelly bank ; consequently they and the gravel are constantly falling in, and choaking the canal, which must be dragged by boats with seven men in each. It seems to be the general opinion in Killaloe, that the canal has been cut in the most improper direction ; they think it should have been brought in a valley between Killaloe and Dr. Parker's, and to the north of the Bishop's house, and not parallel to the Shannon as at present. Bishop Bernard offered several thousand pounds, if this line had been pursued; for, instead of cutting his demesne off from the Shannon, as at present it does, it would have gone at the back of his house; if this was the only objection, I think the engineer acted very impartially, as all public officers should, but very seldom do. It would seem almost unnecessary at this enlight- ened period to make any remarks on the superi- ority of water carriage; but, as the majority of the gentlemen OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 223 gentlemen of the county seldom read any thing but the newspapers, it may be useful to state this superiority. One horse can with ease draw a boat containing sixty tons as far in a day (about twelve miles) as the same horse would draw on land half a ton. Now, allowing three men to the boat, it will carry as much goods as 120 horses and forty men, allowing one man to drive three horses— the expence per annum for every twelve miles by water carriage will be 110/., whilst that of the 120 horses and forty men, for the same distance, will amount to 3320/.* This is worth the serious attention of the landed proprietors, for it is highly probable, that at no very remote period grazing and tillage will be more united than at present ; for nothing, but the grossest ignorance and prejudice, will main- tain, that they cannot be conducted more profitably on the same land, when judiciously blended, than according to the present indolent grazing system alone : did the graziers read a little more, and see ; and know, what is going forward in the agricul- tural world, they would learn that, by the improved practices of England, more cattle are fattened on the same quantity of land, when united to tillage, than the same land formerly fattened, when under cattle * In the Survey of Kildare it is stated, that an acre of potatoe- land can be well manured at Atby for 10/., a distance of forty-on? miles from Dublin. 22* STATISTICAL SURVEY cattle alone ; they would then perceive the benefit of having green food for their stock in winter and spring, and the superiority of alternate green and white crops over their present wretched mode of running the ground out by repeated corn crops ; it would also enable them, when there was a very low price for cattle at Cork or Limerick, to hold them over and keep the market at a steady uni- form rate. Many, I dare say, will be ignorant enough to call this book-farming •, the opinion of such boobies is not worth noticing. The intro- duction of turnips and clover was once called book- farming, and, I dare say, Mr. Muir's feeding, to a state of great fatness, 500 head of cattle in the house in summer, by the cutting of one scythe, will be also called book-grazing ; so will every practice not derived from their great grandfathers. To shew, how little interest some of these gentlemen take in the improvement of cattle, it is a certain fact, that many of them return from the fair of Ballinasloe in October, without having been once in the Farming Society's yard to view the stock exhibited at their shew ; I have even known some of them, that seemed to exult, when they came home, " that they had " not been to see such mummery; truly they had " better cattle at home:" but I have done; it is a disgusting subject. Nothing OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 225 Nothing can possibly be worse made than the embankments along the Shannon and Fergus to keep out flood-water j I do not recollect to have seen one tolerably well made ; they must have been con- ducted by persons totally ignorant of such works; they are not calculated to resist floods in spring tides for any length of time, and, as no proper per- son is appointed (paid by a general assessment of the proprietors) to superintend them, it often happens, that, from the indolence or ignorance of one pro- prietor, the property of many others is greatly injured ; when a breach is made, it is so badly re- paired, that it probably stands but a very short time. 2 G TABLE 226 STATISTICAL SURVEY CO ft o i-3 ) a> CD CO £ ; | i ^s ! o • 4> O o O CO f > j Efr 1—1 - ~ ' J 1 1 an . Oi <* O i j % TJ 1 o © o ► 1 ft* 00 ca >-> i •— ' — ■ >>r-i 00 O I* 3 r- |* > 15 o r_l s •o C 3 Oi C3 O © CO >2 CO t a) £ O 5 C^-~( j 1 n ".*-> -a H 0) be a 1 -© 2 0) fcD cH j .— c >> S >» s- O CC „ o_ C5 u -© «: CA £3 ._P y (D |m *! , _____ £ o r=3 -d Sect. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 227 Sect. 9. State of fisheries. There is not more fish caught than what sup- plies the markets of Limerick, Kilrush, Miltown, and the southern and western parts of the county ; the northern and eastern parts being mostly sup- plied from Galway. Though the numerous bavs and creeks from Loophead to Kilrush are admirably well adapted for the fitting out and safe lying of fishing-boats, yet, from the poverty and laziness of those, who are capable of pursuing the fishing business, it is not carried on with the spirit, that such undertakings require. In the herring season upwards of 200 boats, sometimes not more than half that number, are fitted out at Kilrush, Carrigaholt, Querin, and other creeks; as the fishery is uncertain, a bad season completely ruins those poor men, who have expended their all upon the boats and fishing apparatus. If, on the contrary, some person or com- pany of property would embark in this business, and who had sufficient authority to make other fishermen comply with regulations, that would be mutually beneficial, there could be little doubt of a profitable return. That such bye-laws are wanting it is necessary to state, that at present, from want of some person of respectability and authority, they usually elect the oldest boatman admiral, and the 2 c 2 next ■228 STATISTICAL SURVEY next in seniority vice-admiral for the season ; but neither of these has sufficient power to enforce the laws or regulations, which they have agreed to obey for the general good of all the fishermen. It is generally considered by the fishermen, that, if the herrings are disturbed for a few da\-s after the shoal has come into the Shannon, they will retire from it ; yet, though they are persuaded of this, they generally attempt to steal out at night on the first appearance of the shoal of herrings; this being ob- served by others, they steal out one after the other, until all the boats are out, and, whether from this or some other cause, they frequently return without a single herring, loading each other with curses for having broken this agreement, which they think of so much importance. They are generally so cowardly, that, though the Gal way fishing, smacks come above fifty miles, and fish outside of the light- house, not one of these w r ould venture within five miles of the Shannon's mouth. It is generally thought, that a very productive turbot fishery might be carried on in the mouth of the Shannon, yet no exertions are made; few, if any, of the fish- ermen being able to expend fifteen or twenty guineas for a trawl. Frequently for several months the inha- bitants on the coast are almost without any kind of fish, sometimes owing to boisterous weather, and often to the more profitable and agreeable employ- ment OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 229 merit of carrying goods ashore from smuggling vessels. No part of Ireland, or indeed of any other country, is so well situated for carrying on a lucrative fishery; bujt, as only the weak and small fish keep near the shore, it must be mere peddling, until companies are formed, that will be able to fit out vessels large enough to navigate the sea as far as the banks of Newfoundland. It is well known, that myriads of fine fish frequent the great bank, that stretches nearly from the coast of Galwaj' in an oblique dU rection to Newfoundland, from twenty to thirty fathoms beneath the surface of the water, and of various breadths, from fifty to one hundred miles or more, extending: from lat. 53° N. long. 10° 10 of London, to lat. 45° and long. 53° W. The Danes carried on a most lucrative trade in this fishery with the south of Europe in the ninth and tenth cen- turies, and furnished Ireland and other countries with wine and other southern produce. The French have had at some periods upwards of 500 sail in this trade. The English having ex» plored only the western banks, the middle remains almost unknown, though it is highly probable it would be much more likely to afford large quan- tities of fish ; for the whales, which used formerly to proceed from the eastern coasts of Greenland towards Newfoundland, and the coast of New Eng- land, 230 STATISTICAL SURVEY land, have been banished by the Americans,, and now make their way across the great bank, some- where about lat; 50° and between 30° and 40° of W. longitude, passing off the western coasts of the Azores, Ascension, and St. Helena, towards the southern frozen regions, where they are caught by the southern whale fishers, who follow them from England and America; how much more advan- tageous therefore would it be to intercept them on the great bank, before they were exhausted by the length of the voyage ? The western coasts of Ireland are particularly convenient for such a trade, as not only whales, but every other species of fish from the northern regions, might be obtained in the greatest quantity and of the best quality : it is computed, that upwards of 2000 vessels might be easily loaded in a season. To accomplish this, a company with a large capital must be formed, and there is every probability, that no speculation could be more profitable to the subscribers ; and to the landed proprietors it must be highly advantageous, as the improvement of land and consumption of produce would necessarily keep pace with the prosperity of the fishing company, not only from the consumption of the fishermen, but from the number of boat- builders, coopers, salt-makers, sail and rope-makers, &c. &,c. and their families, which must necessarily be employed. As a nursery for the best OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 231 best kind of seamen to a maritime nation, whose existence depends almost entirely on her navy, the advantage must be incalculable. The boats in general use are such as have been used from the remotest period of history, wicker- work covered with either horse or cow hides; they are the only kind, that could live a moment in the violent surf, that generally beats on this shore : it is astonishing, what a sea they will venture to en- counter, one, where a ship's boat would imme- diately founder, but these boats mount with every wave. It is nothing uncommon for a man to put his foot through the skin, when much worn ; if he has nothing at hand to cram into the hole, he must keep his leg- there until he reaches the shore, but frequently he takes off his wig, which answers the purpose ; these accidents happen so often, that he is seldom at a loss and as little concerned. The small boats, generally used on the Shannon, are about thirty feet long, and only about three feet broad, flat-bottomed, and cost about four guineas; many are much smaller, for attending the weirs and for* angling, and some much larger; it is astonishing to see the number of people, that these unsteady boats will carry across the Shannon at Castie- Connel, and other places, even in rapids, where one would think such narrow boats would be over- set; 23J STATfSTICAL SURVEY set; yet they are managed so skilfully, that few accidents ever happen. Oysters are taken on various parts of the coast : those taken at Pouldoody in the bay of Gal way have long had a high reputation for flavour, but lately, from want of stocking the bed, they have become scarce. There are many other places on the coast of this bay, where oysters are found, and some tolerably good, but still greatly inferior to *he Pouldoody. Inferior sorts are sold by the nawkers all through this and the neighbouring coun- ties under this denomination, and the citizens of Dublin are often gulled by fellows crying " Burrin oysters, fine Pouldoody oysters," which I have seen them buying from oyster-boats at George's-quay, the smallest being picked out for this purpose. Oysters are taken up on the coast of the Shannon, particularly at Querin and Poulanishary ; the beds are small, but the oysters good ; they almost all are sent to Limerick. What are sold at home are usually for a shilling per hundred ; formerly they were to be had for 4d. or oil. Crabs and lobsters are caught in great plenty on the shores of the bay of Gal way in every creek from Blackhead to Ardfry, and are generally sold at a very reasonable price ; those, which in Dublin market Mrs. O'Brien would charge seven or eight shillings for, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 233 for, may be often had here for 6d., sometimes Jess. They are also to be had on the shore of the Atlantic, from Blackhead to Loophead, but are not caught in any great quantity. Crabs at Liscanor are reckoned very indifferent, but the lobsters good; whilst at Miltown-Malbay the crabs are excellent and the lobsters very middling. The salmon fishery of the Shannon is very considera- ble ; and a few are taken in all the rivers, that commu- nicate with it or the sea. That of Limerick was for- merly much more abundant than at present, owing in a good measure to the illegal practice of destroying the fish at night by lights in Adair and other rivers in the spawning season, and also to the very ge- neral practice of watering flax in the Shannon, in full view of tbe magistrates of Killaloe, and in violation of an act of parliament against such practices. Eels form another very material article of con- sumption ; they abound in every river and rivulet ; it would be a very desirable thing, if they could be caught without obstructing the passage of the water, as eel-weirs are the chief cause of very great damage to lands on the banks of rivers ; I mean those chiefly, that are built of stone with a narrow mouth,* for, if they are constructed with wattles like those on the Shannon, the mischief is by no means so great, because the water finds a passage 2 H through 234 STATISTICAL SURVEY through them. An eel-weir, that sets for perhaps 101. a year, frequently is the cause of damage to land worth upwards of 1000/. a year, often much more; yet the proprietors of the land, thus injured, have not the spirit to bring it before a jury : for I think it is highly probable, that it is illegal to erect any other than those with wattles, at least it ought to be so. At Liscanor bay a considerable quantity of small turbot is sometimes caught, and generally sold at a reasonable price ; at least it appears so to a person, who has lived in Dublin ; but the banks, that pro- duce the large fish, are too far from shore to permit the small boats in use for this purpose to avail themselves of it ; nor do even the fishermen of Gal- way or Kilrush, who have boats able to stand the sea, take advantage of this blessing ; they are a cowardly set. Fine mullet and bass are sometimes caught at the mouth of some rivers, and bass are often bought by the inhabitants for mullet, but are greatly inferior. Many kinds of flat fish, with mackarel, herrings, whitings, &c. in their proper season are caught in abundance, and are a great relief to the poor of Limerick and other towns. SecTi OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 235 Sect. 10. State of education — schools, and charitable institutions. Though schools abound in this county, yet, with the exception of those highly respectable ones of Ennis and Killaloe, the state of education is at a very low ebb indeed. The common country schools have generally from twenty to one hundred scholars each, boys and girls mixt together, but are badly attended in winter, as they are usually kept in small damp cabins, or in the Roman Catholic chapels, (to the disgrace of the priest and his flock,) equally damp and dirty. It may be justly imagined no respectable man would suffer the hardships the mas- ters do, when the remuneration is so very inade- quate to a task so very irksome. The prices for education in some places are very different from those in others; some receive 6s. per annum foe teaching to read, write, and the common rules of arithmetic ; for reading and spelling only 4s. ; low as these prices are, and established at a period, when the value of money was much higher than at present, yet custom has so firmly established it in the minds of the parents, that any attempt to raise it would be probably accompanied with the with- drawing of the pupil from school, and even this pit- tance is very badly paid ; sometimes a trifling ad- 2 h 2 dition 236 STATISTICAL SURVEY dition is made to the master's little income, by drawing examinations, bail-bonds, petitions, sum- monses, &c. &c. As the cold and damp situations of country schools generally drive the children home in winter, the master during this season goes from house to house, and teaches the children for his diet ; the Irish peasants partaking in common with the higher classes this peculiarity, that they would rather give five shillings worth of eatables than one in cash. It often happens that, from want of employment, some masters are under the necessity of employing themselves in manual labour for a subsistence. The distance being sometimes great between the master and children, he is obliged to neglect some in winter, and they often forget in that period what they had learned the previous summer. The state of education may be easily appreciated, when it is known that, with the ex- ception of a few universal spelling-books, the ge- neral cottage classics are the History of the seven Champions of Christendom. — i Montelion, Knight of the Oracle. . . Parismus and Parismenes. Irish Rogues and Rapparees. Freney, a notorious robber, teaching them the most dexterous mode of robbing. rfui, , the most celebrated pirates. . Jack the Bachelor, a noted smuggler. History OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 237 History of Fair Rosamond and Jane Shore, two prostitutes. * Donna Rosina, a Spanish courtezan. Ovid's Art of Love. History of Witches and Apparitions. The Devil and Dr. Faustus. Moll Flanders, highly edifying no doubt. New System of boxing by Mendoza, &c. &c. &c. Whilst these are the books, from which our poor have their education, it can hardly be expected, that the lives of pirates, dexterous thieves, witches, smugglers, and illustrious prostitutes, can have any but the very worst tendency. The fault must be in a good measure attributed to the total neglect of the Roman Catholic clergy ; did they pay that attention to the schools, that they ought, such books would not for half a century have continued to dis- grace and corrupt the children of their persuasion, of which the scholars almost exclusively are ; for good spelling-books, and the many little cheap tracts published by the Society for discountenancing vice, and sold by Mr. Watson in Capel-street, and in some country towns, are not dearer or more difficult to procure than the infamous publications, of which I have given a disgusting but small catalogue. At the chapel of Kilfenora two schools are kept; one master has about eighty, and the other fifty scholars j for small boys they receive Is, l\d, 9 for 238 STATISTICAL SURVEY bigger ones, whom they teach arithmetic and book- keeping, 3s. 9ld. per quarter. In Kilrush one school has upwards of one hundred, another seventy, another fifty; Menmore twenty, Querin thirty-five, Moyferta twenty, Cross forty, Fodhieragh twenty, Kilclogher twenty ; all these are in the union of Kilrush. The three schools in Kilrush are the only ones, that are attended in winter; the masters receive for reading, writing, and arithmetic 6s. per annum, and for read- ing and spelling 4s. There is scarcely a part of the county without a school, which in summer is nu- merously attended. In the mountains of Broadford one school contains upwards of sixty of both sexes, at \s. l\d. and 2s. 2d. per quarter; they are taught the Universal Spelling Book, Alibaba, and the Seven Sleepers. In a school near Spansel-hill, containing above sixty scholars, they pay 2s. 3d. per quarter, but are taught arithmetic. There is a very numerous school kept in the Roman Catholic chapel at Kil- laloe ; it contains several grown boys and girls, and, when I visited it unexpectedly, I surprized two of these learning their lesson in a very loving manner, the gentleman's arm about the } T oung lady's waist; the master was absent. There are two schools at Ennis, one of which is on the foundation of Erasmus Smyth, and has been conducted by the Rev. Mr. Fitz- gerald for many years with high reputation ; the other school OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 239 school is also admirably well kept by Mr. O'Halloran. The diocesan school at Killaloe is well conducted. The Rev. Mr. Barret, titular Dean of Killaloe, by his unwearied exertions had a charity school erected in Ennis in 1792; it at present consists of about fifty boys : he informs me, that the Roman Catholic inha- bitants of Ennis contribute very little towards its sup- port ; the chief aid comes from the Dean's own pocket, assisted by the liberality of the Marquis of Head- fort, Lord Conyngham, Colonel Burton, and a few other gentlemen, by whose assistance upwards of forty boys have been apprenticed. This good Dean also supports, chiefly from his own little income, a school of ten girls ; how different from some of his Protestant brethren possessing lucrative sinecures, who think charity begins (and stays) at home ! There was a Protestant charter-school erected by Anthony Hickman, Esq. early in the last century, at Ballyket in the parish of Kilrush ; it maintained forty boys, and had two acres of land annexed to it ; but from non-payment of rent the establishment was dissolved, and a very commodious house in a, cheap country is now in ruins. There are three or four protestant families' in the neighbourhood, whose ancestors were educated there. Until lately there was a protestant charter-school at Newmarket ; for what reason it has been removed, I am ignorant. Sir 240 STATISTICAL SURVEY Sir Edward O'Brien intends to procure one of the benevolent Mr. Lancaster's pupils, and open a school at Newmarket. The benefit this will be of to the rising generation is incalculable ; the scholars will not only learn infinitely quicker, but they will not imbibe bad principles from the lives of notorious prostitutes and successful villains. How different the state of education now and before the irruption of the Danes ! it is too well attested to be disputed ; learning flourished greatly between the years 432 and 820, when the Danes first invaded Ireland. M'Curtin savs that, after the coming of the English, there were," at one time, upwards of six hundred scholars at Clonroad near Ennis. Sect. 11. State of non-resident and resident Proprietors. Although the number of non-resident proprietors is not very great, yet the greater part of the county belongs to them ; the principal are, Marquis of Thomond, Lord Clive, Marquis of Buckingham, Lord Perry, Lord Powerscourt, Earl of Egremont, Lord Milton, Henry O'Brien, Esq. Marquis of Headfort, Westby, Esq. Lord Conyngham, George Stackpoole, Esq. Lord Norbury, Toby Butler, Esq. Walcot, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 241 Walcot, Esq. Michael Blood, Esq. Sir John Riggs Miller, Richard Blood, Esq. Sir Hugh Dillon Massey, William Blood, Esq. Whitelock, Esq. Sir John Blake. • Synge, Esq. % ■ No person can deny the right, which every man has to live where he likes best; but surely one of a feeling mind would find himself impelled to make some amends for the want of his cheering influence and example, and, in return for those large sums, which, totally lost to this country, enable him to live with splendour in another, to give every en- couragement to an improving resident tenantry, not only by rewards for the best stock of husbandry, but by sending from England males of the best kinds of each species, , and models of improved implements, to be kept by his agent, and under certain restrictions dispensed gratis to the most deserving of his tenants, but above all by the dis- pensing from the fountain-head that never-failing inducement to Irish industry, a certain tenure^ and freeing them from the rack-rents imposed by that bane to Irish prosperity, an Irish middleman.* 2 I A person, * I beg it may be understood, tbat I discriminate between a wretch, who takes large tracts of ground, and relets at an enormous rent, without any lease, or at best a very short one, without making the smallest improvement, and the monied man of skill, who takes a great extent of waste ground, and, after reclaiming it by a great expenditure 242 STATISTICAL SURVEY A person, who has traversed the county in every direction, as I have done frequently, must lament to see such vast regions of improvable ground, that a little industry and skill would clothe with smiling harvests, devoted to the rearing or rather starving of a few young cattle, and considered as of so little value as either to be thrown in, as of no sort of value, with a few acres of other land, or set in great masses without measurement by the bulk. In that part of the county between Mount Callan and the Shannon, containing many miles square, I have seen thousands of acres of ground, highly improvable, set in this wretched mode, that with attention and skill could be made well worth two guineas an acre, and that now do not bring one shilling; and yet I dare say, if any man or company of skill and enterprize would propose to take any part of this dreary waste, he would be referred to an agent wholly ignorant of agricultural affairs, or per- haps be offered a twenty-one years' lease at a high acreable rent with many vexatious clauses. It will scarcely be credited, that an agent to a great estate in the county of Mayo must have at least a year's rent in hand as lease-money, whilst the indolent spendthrift expenditure of money and industry, relets it at a rent, that, though moderate, will, amply repay him, and put it in the power of those, whose want of capital and skill prevented it, to provide comfortably for their families. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 243 spendthrift landlord countenances the receipt of this monstrous bribe. When such things are permitted by landlords, how can Ireland make those advances in improvement, that her climate, population, and the sinews of her athletic peasantry would quickly enable her to do ? If absentees could be once brought to determine to let their lands, already under cul- tivation, to none but occupying tenants, they would soon see and feel the beneficial effects of the practice, and I cannot conceive, why a tenant will not pay his rent as well to a resident agent, as to an indolent non-resident middleman. Mr. Young, who cannot be accused of partiality, speaks thus in his Tour in Ireland, vol. ii. part 2, page 21. " When therefore " it is considered, that no advantage to the estate u can arise from a non-resident tenant, and that a " resident intermediate one improves no more than . d. less than at the rate of 2lhs. per acre 2 No* II. To the farmer living by agri- culture, and paying not more than thirty pounds per annum rent, who shall have the largest, cleanest, and best crop of drill potatoes, not less than half an acre - - - 2 To the second - - - 10 CLASS v. Planting. No. I. To the artificer or labourer, who shall, within the year 1808, plant and protect the greatest quantity of sal- low, ozier, or willow, of any kind 2 No. II. To the person in this district, who shall, within the year 1808, enclose the greatest quantity of ground, not less than half an acre, and stock it \yith forest-trees, shrubs, and white- thorn quicks, for sale as a nursery 5 To the second - - - 3 No. III. To the farmer living by agri- culture, and not holding more than fifty 25* STATISTICAL SURVEY fifty acres of ground, who shall plant and protect the greatest number of trees, within bedge-rows, not more £. t. d. than six feet asunder - - - 3 CLASS VI. Improving and manuring. No. I. To the person, not holding more than fifty acres, who shall put the greatest quantity of lime upon his farm, not less than eighty barrels to the acre, and not less than three acres - - - - - - 50,0 No. II. To the person, who improves the greatest quantity of bog, not holding more than twenty acres, and lays it down with grass-seed, not less than two acres - - - - 3 To the second - - - - 2 No. III. To the best compost maker, in quantity and quality, not holding more than twelve acres - - 3 CLASS OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 255 CLASS VIL Cattle* I. To the person, who shall keep the best bull for the use of the barony £. fc d. he resides in, a silver cup, or - 5 II. To the farmer living by agriculture, who shall produce at one summer shew the best cow and calf his own property - - - 4 To the second - 3 To the third - - - 2 CLASS VIII. Sheep. To the person, who shall keep a ram of an improved breed (the new Lei- cester) for the use of the barony he resides in, a silver cup. N. B. No person to have the use of said ram, who holds more than fifty acres of land ; also not to send more than five ewes, and to pay for each three pence per night for grassv CLASS 25* STATISTICAL SURVEY CLASS IX. Horses. To the person, who shall let to mares £. s. <£. the best draught horse in this district 15 CLASS X. Swine. I. To the person, who shall keep for public use a boar of an improved breed, a silver cup, or - - 5 O II. To the labourer, who shall produce the best sow and her pigs in the year 1808, his property - * 2 To the second - - - l O CLASS XL Ploughing. I. To the person, who shall plough twenty perches of lea in the best manner, the cup presented by the Farming Society of Ireland. To OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 257 To the ploughman - £,$ To the second - - - 2 To the third - - - - 10 CLASS XIL Ploughs, To the carpenter or plough-maker, who shall produce at our meeting the best and cheapest plough, made by him- self, and who will contract, if re- quired, to furnish ten of the same at the price of the one produced * 5 CLASS XIII. Carts and Cars, To the artificer, who shall produce the best constructed cart, car, or other vehicle, which will combine strength with ease of draught, and contract as in class the twelfth - - - 5 To the second - - - 3 2'L class 25S STATISTICAL SURVEY CLASS XIV. Smith! s work. To the smith, in the county, who shall produce the best shod wheel, or any piece of iron work belonging to agri- cultural use £.2 To the second - - i 10 To the third - ^ 1 1st. Resolved, We pledge ourselves to each other, that we will not take into our service any artificer, servant, or labourer, who may be discharged or dismissed the service of any member of this society for any species of misconduct ; and we pledge our- selves to part with the person immediately, if through inadvertence we might happen to engage such a one in our service j and we declare, that, while on the one hand we will encourage and protect the sober. and industrious, we will, on the other, use every exertion in our power to bring to justice the idle and profligate, and to punish all those, who shall be detected in plundering the crops and destroying the property of their industrious neighbours, to the . great discouragement of all agricultural exertion and improvement, and for this purpose we will pay, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 2SS> pay, to whoever shall discover, and prosecute to conviction, any person or persons guilty of stealing corn, hay, turnips, or other crop, sheep, or fowl of any sort, or of cutting or stealing any timber, young trees, or hedges, the sum of three guineas, 2d. Resolved, That any person, who shall in future employ the amount of the premium, or any part of it he or they may receive, in getting drunk or making others so, is declare4 incapable of ever becoming a candidate for any premium again. The reward given by the Society being meant for the benefit of the sober and industrious, not for the encouragement of drunkenness and rioting, its usual consequences. 3d. Resolved, That the Society will meet but two days in each year. One of the days to appoint the committee for inspecting the different claims; the other day for paying them for the next twelve months. Sect. 14. State of ' manufactures — whether • encreasing. All the linen manufactured in this county is iised for home consumption, and is generally coarse and of low price, A small quantity of coarse diapers for towels is made, and generally sold at fairs and markets ; also canvas for sacks and bags is sold in the same manner. Some judgment may be formed 2 L 2 of 260 STATISTICAL SURVEY of the extent of the manufacture, when it is known, that there are but three small bleach-greens in the county ; one at Ennis, one at Donass, and one at Ballvhonesre. I do not think the genius of the country seems to lead that way ; they are much more inclined to pursue the woollen manufacture. Flax-seed is usually procured from Limerick, and almost all imported from America ; since the com- mencement of the war Dutch seed could not be procured, to which a decided preference would be given. American seed may be easily distinguished by its brown colour, whilst the Dutch has a greenish cast ; the cause of this preference is not known nor easily accounted for ; the colour of the American seed proceeding from their permitting their flax to stand longer than the Dutch, one would ima- gine, that the produce of ripe seed would be su- perior to that of unripe, but there is always a good deal o/ whim in these opinions. The only reason they assign for this preference is, that the Dutch seed does not produce flax with spotted stalks, but I am inclined to think this is mere sup- position. Most poor people save their own seed, and it is equal to any they can buy. When the flax is pulled, after beating off the seed-pods, it is immediately watered in stagnant pools, but too often in the river Shannon ; at the proper period it is spread to dry, and then usually brought into the OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 261 the house, where it remains until October or No- vember, when men, who travel through the country for this purpose, finish the process by breaking, scutching, and hackling, and leaving it ready for spinning. The women then frequently give it what they call a cloving, which is performed by a small instrument, called a cloving-tongue, and makes the flax soft and silky ; to produce this effect, they also beetle it well. A small quantity of yarn as fine as four dozen is manufactured near Ennis, but the quantity is so trifling as not to deserve the name of a manufacture. Spinning-wheels are made in various places ; the common sort sells for 6s. each ; those made in imitation of North-country wheels for about half a guinea ; the first sort answers very well for any thing under three dozen yarn, but for finer the other is necessary; if the price was as low as that of the common kind, they would be preferred, as the women say, that from the greater circumference of the wheel they are more easily turned, and do not require such quick repe- titions of pressure by the foot. Wheels for spinning woollen yarn usually sell for about five or six shillings. A good quantity of coarse woollens called frize are made chiefly for home consumption. At Corrofin and Innistymon considerable quan- tities of coarse yarn stockings are sold every market day j they are not as fine as those made in Cun- narnara 262 STATISTICAL SURVEY namara in the county of Galway, (thanks to the Leicester sheep,) but are much stronger, and fitter for soldiers and those, who prefer strength to beauty : they are brought in large quantities to Dublin and the North by dealers, who attend at these towns every market day. Since the introduction of Lei- cester sheep, called by the old women the Dexters, the wool of Burrin and other rocky districts, that was formerly proverbially fine, has become coarse ; consequently the manufacture has kept pace with it, and, instead of producing stockings equal in goodness and fineness, and much cheaper than those imported from Wales, they now seldom exceed 2s. per pair. Bindon Blood, Esq. lately of Riverston, introduced the South Down breed of sheep, as likely to bring back the wool to its former fine staple ; the first cross alone between these and the native sheep has produced wool nearly as fine as South Down. As yet the breeders of that part of the county do not see the advantage of the cross ; judging only by the eye, they think them too small, and the bone too fine, not considering, that a sheep, covered with wool seven or eight inches long, must appear much larger than one, whose wool is only two. A hoouxet ram of each breed was weighed bv Mr. Blood; the eye would judge the new Leicester to be at least 50 lbs. heavier than the South Down, for, besides the greater length of wool, it was in higher condition, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 263 condition, being fed on the best ground near the house, whilst the South Down had just come from a very poor pasture in Burrin ; yet to the asto- nishment of a new-light breeder very much pre- possessed against the South Down, the new-light sheep weighed only 10 lbs. more than the South Down, and the wool of the last was worth at least 105., whilst the other was worth only about 5s. ; the gentleman, who was present, was so convinced, that he has purchased several breeding ewes from Mr. Blood, and intends to encrease his stock on his ground in Burrin. I would not be understood to mean, that this breed would be the most be- neficial on every kind of soil ; I only wish to press the matter at present on the minds of those breeders, who possess large tracts of ground producing a short scanty bite. I have the authority of a very eminent stocking manufacturer in Dublin to state, that, if a hall was established in some central situation, and an honest intelligent inspector appointed, and some person of capital were to embark in the business, the manufac- ture could be brought to such a pitch of perfection as not only to supply the whole consumption of Ireland, but to open a trade to all other parts of the world, and enable us to undersell the English and Scotch manufacturers in their own markets.* The late Sir Lucius * One town alone in Scotland exports knit stockings to the amount of above 100,0001. 264 STATISTICAL SURVEY Lucius O'Brien attempted to establish a serge ma- nufactory at Corrofin, but, after spending a consi- derable sum, and making some progress, it has totally declined. A manufactory of coatings, &c. is established at Ennis by Mr. Carney; I have seen some of his beaver coating at lis. 4;\d. per yard, and think it superior to any sold in Dublin for a much higher price. He informs me, that a much finer kind of wool than either that of Burrin or Cunnamara is produced in the remote western part of this county, where it has not been improved by a cross of coarse- woolled Leicester sheep; it sells for a guinea per stone, when the other wools of the country sell for fifteen shillings ; of what incalculable benefit would a few South Down rams be in this country, and what a blessing would the absentee landlord confer by sending over a few to his poor tenants ? Mr. O'Brien of Ennis has lately established a broad cloth and beaver manufactory, with all the modern machinery for saving labour, and manufactures about 2000 stone of wool. The two Mr. O'Keefes also work up about the same quantity into serges, which, after supplying the home demand, they send to Limerick, &c. &c. A small blanket manufactory is also established at Ennis, but wants capital to extend it to meet the demand. Twenty years ago Killaloe had a very flourishing trade OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 265 trade in stuffs, camblets, and serges, which employed above 150 hands; they were allowed 5s. per week by their employers for provisions : in consequence of this and the fostering care of former bishops, two markets were held in the week, and well sup- plied ; since the total annihilation of that trade, and owing to every species of neglect and contempt, there is now no market, nor any kind of trade or manufactures. A good deal of wool is bought by jobbers, and sold in the county of Galway in small * quantities to women, who manufacture it into flannels and frizes ; these are again purchased by perhaps the same jobbers, or those of Galway and Loughrea for about ild. per handle of thirty inches, and car- ried to the North of Ireland, where they are sold for about id. a yard profit. A considerable number of coarse hats are manu- factured near Skarriff; they are in great estimation all over the country, and sell at from 35. 9{d. to 5s. 5d, ; they are dyed with alder bark, and twigs, and log- wood, but principally the first. A considerable quantity of kelp is manufactured on the extensive shores this county possesses ; it is generally made in so careless and dishonest a manner, that the value is considerably less than that of Scotland or other countries ; when it sells in Scot- land for 6/. per ton, it only brings in Ireland 4l, per ton j so far are they from clearing the sea-weed 2 m from ?«6 STATISTICAL SURVEY from sand, shells, or any other extraneous sub- stances, I am informed by Mr. Molony of Kil- tannon, that stones of a particular kind, and tech- nically called- kelp stones , are broken small, and added to the ignited mass, forming so complete an union as not to be distinguished by the eye, when the kelp is offered for sale. I have added a piece of the stone to the Dublin Society's museum. Ashes produced by burning weeds, thorns, briars, &c. are frequently sold ; in a powdered state they generally bring &cl. per gallon ; they are usually made into very hard cakes with water, about eight inches in diameter and two inches thick, weighing about 3lbs., and are sold for about 4d each ; before using they are well burned, which is nearly pur- suing the chemical process for making pearl-ashes.* Sect. 15. State of mills of even/ kind* The mills, that dress flour, are those of Clifden, Skarriff, also a rape-mill, Ennis, Cloundegad, Six-mile-bridge, (not now Kilrush, at work,) New park, Derragh, Newmarket. Grist-mills. * I am informed by Mr. Donald Stewart, that the cultivation of the plant, that produces the barilla ashes, could be carried on in many parts of the western coast with very great advantage. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 267 Grist-mills. Ennis, Skarriff, Innistymon, Six-mile-bridge, Ardsallas, Ballylyon, Inchiquin, Bally kilty, Dunbeg, Annacoragh, Derry, Donogan, Ballye, Blackwater, Killaloe, Cregg, Ranagha, Newmarket Tuck-mills, Kiverston, Woodmount, Innistymon, Donagon, Ennis, Kilrush, Ballylyon, Ballye, Ballykilty, Cloundegad, Dunbeg, Killaloe, Annacoragh, Ardsallas. Derry, The tuck-mills receive Id, per bandle of twenty- seven inches for milling ; a piece shortens about one-third in the operation, sometimes more, or less, according to the use intended to be made of it, or the fancy of the owner of the cloth ; these 2 M 2 mills 263 STATISTICAL SURVEY mills are of very rude construction, and almost al- ways use more water than necessary, from the im- proper construction of their water-wheels, and the bad condition, in which they are generally kept ; they are mostly a great nuisance in a country, throwing back water on great tracts of ground, and converting that water, which Would manure many thousand acres of ground, to a purpose, that could be equally well effected by wind. The rape- mill at Skarriff is conducted by Mr. James Flannery ; I was informed he could procure as much seed as he can manufacture. It appeared to me, that he lost much of the oil from want of sufficient pres- sure, and I have no doubt his rape-cake would m«ke excellent manure, from the quantity of oil remaining in it. This mill is highly useful, as an inducement to the cultivation of rape in bogs. The river ( hi- garnee, running through Six- mile-bridge into the Shannon, is one of the best calculated I have seen for extensive manufactures ; the supply is equal to any expenditure of water, in the midst of a fine corn country, and contiguous io Limerick, Ennis, Six-mile-bridge, the Shannon, &c. &c. From Bal- lymacastle to Six- mile-bridge the fall is so rapid, that there could be a mill erected at every hundred yards. Sect, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 269 S£CT. 1 6 . State of plantations and planting. Few countries want planting more than this, many miles square frequently occurring with scarcely a tree to enliven the dreary scene, and in situations which, from their extreme rockiness, are fit for little else; as the fissures of the limestone-rocks gene- rally take a perpendicular direction, and are ge- nerally filled with a rich, light, black earth, there can be no doubt of success; indeed, if any doubt could remain, it must vanish, when the growth of those accidentally produced is observed, and it has been handed down by documents, and by tradition, that those very rocks, which I recommend to be planted, have at remote periods been covered with woods ; even some old people recollect woods grow- ing, where wool only is now produced. In many places, if protected from the ravages of sheep and goats, the natural growth of oak, ash, quicken, hazel, thorn, &c. &c. would in a very few years clothe these naked rocks with a luxuriant growth.* The shelter afforded by these crags is also of infinite use in a country so much exposed to storms from the Atlantic * One Reedy, a small farmer in Bnrrin, brought some seedJin^ ash and quicken from Dublin about twenty years ago ; the place m which he planted them, was so destitute of earth, that he was obliged to bring mould from a neighbouring bog to cover the roots ; they are now worth in general more than five shillings per tree, in grosip.4 not werth one shilling per acre, I 1270 STATISTICAL SURVEY Atlantic ocean, the effects of which are frequently seen for many miles inland, even to the eastern ex- tremity of Ireland ; this, though a bar to planting in small groupes, or dotting with single trees in exposed situations, does not prevent planting in large masses, provided the trees are planted near to each other; there are few situations, where trees will not grow, if this rule is observed ; for, though the western side of every plantation, however deep it may be, will certainly be injured, and the tops of the trees will form an inclined plane, yet within this they will grow as freely as in any sheltered situation of equally good soil. At any future pe- riod, when thinning is necessarj', these outside in- jured trees should be scrupulously preserved, for the certain consequence of removing them would be the death of those they protected ; where the screen has grown so as to afford shelter, and even on the eastern side of hills, any grouping or dotting, that taste or fancy (they are by no means syno- nymous,) may suggest, can be without apprehension of failure executed ; but before this period, to at- tempt it would be loss of time, trees, and repu- tation. Many instances of this mistake may be seen in this county, as well as in every other part of Ireland. From their impatience to obtain shelter, too many are tempted to plant trees of some growth; this can be done only in very sheltered situations, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 271 situations, with but few kinds of trees, and with those only, that have grown in situations equally exposed; but, without considering this necessary , precaution, trees are frequently taken from plan- tations, where they have been sheltered, and planted on the tops of hills to linger out an existence for a few years.* Bindon Blood, Esq. has now nearly finished the planting of upwards of eighty acres of rocky and light soil, the greater part of it worth very little for agricultural purposes; the plantation consists of oak, elm, beech, birch, Scotch and spruce fir, alder, sycamore, pine-aster, &c. &c. but chiefly larch and ash, as the most valuable. If other gen- tlemen pursued the same plan with equal spirit and intelligence, this county would soon wear a new ap- pearance, and the shelter afforded by such extensive plantations would contribute not only to the improve- ment of the adjoining land, but materially to that of stock of every description. I wish most sincerely I could say any thing, that would turn the thoughts of young gentlemen to this profitable and charming study ; how much more gratifying, than any thing they can experience in lounging about the streets of Ennis, a town where of all others there is less amuse* ment (if a wretched billiard-table, and a coffee-house without * It is fortunate for posterity, that the expence and difficulty put limits to this folly ; in this respect I must consider Mr. Bout- clier's publication to have done much mischief. fLVZ STATISTICAL SURVEY without coffee or tea, and a reading society without books, are excepted) than in most towns in Ireland. William Burton, Esq. of Clifden, has also planted extensively on some picturesque hills near his house, which in a few years will encrease the beauty of his charming situation, on the banks of the lake of Inchi- quin y a situation, that in this county stands unrivalled for picturesque beauty, and variety of outline : he is now preparing to make considerable additions to his designs. Mr. O'Hara has made some extensive and ele- gantly sketched plantations on the banks of Lough Graney. At Springmount, the estate of Mr. Arthur, in the barony of Tullagh, some extensive plantations have been made, and, as the road runs through them, they are very ornamental. Mr. Arthur has some very fine-shaped hills near Glenomera, that would appear with fine effect, if they were planted, and the valley thrown under water. Sir Edward O'Brien is making very extensive plan- tations ; in 1806 alone he planted upwards of thirty acres. Larch were planted late in spring, and suc- ceeded better than most others ; this valuable pro- perty I have often experienced. Captain Massey's woods of Doone near Brdadibrd are under very bad management ) according to the general OF TH£ COUNTY OF CLARE. 273 general practice of Ireland, several shoots are grow- ing from one stem ; cattle are allowed to graze amongst them, and browse on the tender shoots ; yet I dare say there is a person dignified with the pompous title of wood-ranger. The most extensive plantations (they can scarcely be called woods) are at Cratilow, near Limerick; they are divided as follows: Acres, Mr. Henry O'Brien, - 300 Lord Conyngham, - 170 Marquis of Headfort, - 130 Colonel Monsell, 80 Mr. Blood and Mr. Creagh, 100 780 They are all under a wretched system of ma- nagement : the greater part (indeed I believe all) are grazed ; many are filled with stunted oak, with several shoots growing from one stool, and multitudes of birch occupying the place, where that valuable tree, larch, would flourish ; but birch being the natural production of the soil, and raised without trouble to the wood- ranger, is permitted to remain, by the proprietors, who never see them. I am in- formed, that nearly one half of the trees are of this kind ; what the loss is to the proprietor may be easily estimated, when it is known, that a birch tree at 2 N forty 274 STATISTICAL SURVEY forty years' growth would not be worth more than about ten shillings, allowing for the decrease in value where the quantity in one place is above 700 acres ; whilst larch of the same age would be well worth from three to four guineas. Now supposing only 500 trees to be changed on each acre, it would make the following difference in favour of the larch, valued at only Zl. ; besides, there never can be too many larch for the demand, so near water car- riage, and as foreign timber is growing daily dearer, 500 larch, at 5s. «£.150O 500 birch, at 10s. 250 .£.1250 Multiplied by only 700 ,£.875,000 This becomes a serious consideration to a man, who looks forward to his family. If I have valued the birch too low, any deduction can be made; at the same time from the price, that foreign tim- ber is now sold for, and the uncertainty of a future supply from the North of Europe, it is much more probable, that the larch would be worth 5l. per tree, which would make the difference not less than the enormous sum of 1,575,000/. I am well convinced that, if larch had been planted in these extensive woods instead of oak, for which much of the ground is very unfit, the profit would be superior, to a very large OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 275 large amount.* I do not suppose there is in the whole of these woods a single tree, that could be called timber, or ever likely to be such; this predi- lection for oak in every kind of soil, where larch or ash would thrive much better, has occasioned an immense loss to individuals, and to the country at large. From the above sketch some little idea may be formed, what the aggregate loss of Ireland has been, by planting oak on stony shallow soils. Many gentlemen are planting a little ornamen- tally, but the gentlemen, whom I have before men- tioned, are amongst the very few, who have planted for posterity. Pine-aster is particularly to be recommended for exposed situations ; it stands singly opposed to the western winds, where every other kind is either killed, or injured, and I have every reason to think, from the exposed situations, in which fir timber has been found buried, that it is this species of pine, and not Scotch fir, as generally imagined. In the excellent Survey of Londonderry, p. 424, Mr. Sampson recommends the black sallow, (salex caprea,) for its great hardiness in situations exposed 2 N 2 to * Strabo mentions larch 8 feet in diameter ; and in Gilpin's Forest Scenery, vol. 1. p, ^4, it is stated, that larch 120 feet long are floated from Valais through the lake of Geneva, and down the 7 Rhone, to supply ships of war with masts. For a full account of this invaluable tree I refer the reader to Dr, Anderson's Essays, p. 220, Dublin edition. 276 STATISTICAL SURVEY to the north-west wind ; Norway maple is also re- markably hardy.* In the county of Sligo, the Ca- rolina poplar (populus angulata) bears the blast from the Atlantic ocean better than most trees ; near Dublin, the tender shoots are very frequently injured by frost. There were formerly extensive orchards in this county, especially near Six-mile-bridge, and a few still remain ; many young apple-trees have been lately planted. Very fine cider is made here from a great variety of kinds mixed in the pressing, and not, as is generally imagined, from caccagea or any particular sort ; apples are fre- quently purchased in the county of Limerick and elsewhere, and manufactured into cider: it is in such deserved repute, that it is generally bought up by the neighbouring gentlemen for their own use and as presents to their friends, the price usually about five guineas per hogshead. I have frequently drank this cider after being kept four years in bottle. I do not know, that there is any thing peculiar in the mode of making ; if there is, any inquiries would only lead to error, as every maker has secrets, that he will not divulge, but I believe the grand secret lies in having the apples ripe, free from any taint, and in preventing every fer- mentation * I found two or three varieties of sallows growing in the rocks on the coast near Miltown-Malbay, exposed to every blast from the Atlantic. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 277 mentation but the first, or saccharine one, and in bottling it at this period, and preventing the smallest mixture of the sediment. Sect. 17. State of the effects of encouragement here- tofore given by the Dublin Society, particularised, in the annexed list, and any improvement, which may occur for future encouragement, particularly for the preservation of trees when planted. TtjE following gentlemen received premiums for planting from the Dublin Society in the years an* nexed to their names: James Molony, Esq. in 1785, 1786, 1789, 1793, and 1794 ; his plantations have been well preserved. Sir Joseph Peacock for planting oak, now com- pletely destroyed by cattle. The late Charles M< Donne], Esq. 1789 ; well pre* served and flourishing. Robert O'Hara, Esq, 179Q and 1791 ; well pre- served and beautiful. Boyle Vandeleur, Esq, 1795 ; well enclosed, and very thriving. There are some trifling plantations mentioned in the list of premiums granted, that I did not see, par- ticularly for raths, which I confess I never wish to see planted, whilst they are permitted to retain their present round shape ; the money granted for the 278 STATISTICAL SURVEY the above premiums amounts to 403/. Is. 5d., and seems to have been very justly expended, except that given to Sir Joseph Peacock in 1793, whose plantation has been quite ruined by cattle, if it was the one, that was shewn to me in the barony of Tullagh. I beg leave to suggest that, as the public mind is now sufficiently pointed to the subject, and the value of plantations so well ascertained, a dis- continuance of these premiums, and the converting of the fund to some other beneficial purpose, would be eligible. I beg also to mention, that giving a premium for oak without limiting, or at least advising the proper soil, is so much money thrown away; for some of the plantations I have seen are upon dry, rocky, shallow hills, where larch would have been infinitely more valuable. What a reproach to the county, that in twenty- five years, one of such extent, and where trees are so much wanting, has had only ninety-six acres planted ! It may be said, that this is only the -quantity, that were planted for premiums, but I am convinced there has been very little more planted to the year 1795 ; of what has been planted since I, have no account; but, except the plantations of Sir Edward O'Brien, Bindon Blood, Esq. and Wil- liam Burton, Esq. the number is very small indeed. Whilst OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 279 Whilst a whole county in twenty-five years has had only ninety-six acres planted, an individual in Scot- land has, in fifteen years, planted 3005^ acres. We learn from the Transactions of the Society of Arts, that the Earl of Fife planted the following trees in fifteen years, viz. Oak, 196,973 Larch, 181,813 Ash, - 57,500 Elm, - 55,600 Sweet chesnut, 64,100 Beech, 192,679 Sycamore, - 50,000 Birch, 231,813 Alder, 31,500 Hazel, 47,200 Laburnum, 51,100 Poplar, |0 ; 000 Willow, 15,000 Spruce fir, - 10,000 Silver fir, 10,000 Scotch fir, - - 3,668,420! Total, 4,874,198 The first thing, that strikes me on this amazing extent of planting, is the immense loss, that must accrue to the heirs of Lprd Fife from planting such * a large s$o STATISTICAL SURVEY a large proportion of Scotclr fir,* ami other trees of inferior value to larch. The following list shews it at one view. Scotch fir - 3,668,420 Birch, - - 231,813 Hazel, - - 47,200 Poplar, - - 10,000 3,957,433 By referring to the remarks on the woods of Cra- tilow, p. 273, some estimate may be formed of the many hundred thousand pounds Lord Fife's heirs will lose by this erroneous method of planting. We are gratified also with the measurement of some of the trees at twenty- five years growth, taken three feet from the ground. f SOIL. tlirids of trees. Length of trunk. Height. Circumference 3ft. from the ground. Loam and clay bottom, Light black earth, Heavy wet ground , Dry sandy soil, ... Good heavy loam, < ; Oak. E!m. Ash. Beech. Larch. Silver fir. Feet. 12 13 20 14 Feet. 25 to 30 30 to 35 35 to 40 30 to 35 46 44* ... Feet. 2 5 3 3 6 6 Inches. H 4 9 8 3 ; 8 The * Previous to the year 1788, when these trees were planted, Scotch fir was quite the rage in Scotland, hut, since that, larch has as- sumed its deservedly high rank amongst timber trees. f It would be exceedingly useful, if this distance from the ground was the established standard, as many errors are committed by measuring nearer to the ground. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 281 The superiority of the iarch is conspicuous here, and in a soil not the best adapted for it, a heavy loam, as also the great inferiority of the oak in a soil well adapted to it. These plantations were well enclosed with walls, measuring in length upwards of forty English miles.* When I inform my readers, that the Earl of Egremont, Marquis of Thomond, Lord Conyngham, Marquis of Buckingham, Lord Milton, Mr. O'Brien, Mr. Westby, and a long etcetera of absentees have thousands of acres of waste land, as capable of being planted as Lord Fife's estate, what will they think ? Sect. 18. State of nurseries in the county, and extent of sales. There is a small one at Newhall in the barony of Islands, and another has been lately established near Kiltannon by Mr. Molony's late gardener ; as it is only in its infancy, the sales are but trifling; when completed, it will be of great use to the country : the proprietor has been for many years in England, and pays great attention to the propagation of the 2 o best * If to the loss Lord Fife sustains, by planting trees of inferior Talue, is added that he will suffer by planting only 1230 trees on, the acre (Scotch) instead of 6000 or 7000, the amount will be asto- nishing ; not only from ground unoccupied by trees, but from the inferior value of the Scotch fir, whilst permitted to grow into large side bianches, that will produce timber, all knots, and of little value. 232 STATISTICAL SURVEY best kinds of fruit trees; but to the disgrace of the county he already begins to complain of want of punctuality in payments ; strange, that this disgrace should attach to the gentlemen of the county, who are so wealthy! but it is the well-founded complaint of every nurseryman in Ireland ; I have had a severe trial of it myself formerly. At present trees are generally bought at the nurseries in the county of Galway, Limerick, or from Dublin, and many in Scotland, especially seedlings. No person, who in- tends to plant extensively, should depend on any nur^ sery but his own; the superiority is not so much in saving money, as in saving time, and in being certain that the plants do not lie any time out of the ground, and also that many kinds difficult to move can be carried with balls of earth to their roots, which en- sures their growth. This is particularly desirable in pine-aster, one of the most. valuable trees we possess in bleak exposures ; it is generally planted in small pots for the purpose of preserving the earth entire, which makes the planting of it on an extensive scale too expensive. It has been as- serted by a reverend gentleman, of some cejebrity as an improver of land, that every particle of mould should be carefully shaken off every species of tree previous to planting; every gardener's labourer knows, that as much as possible should be pre- served. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 283 served. This is akin to an assertion of another gentleman, who insists that cattle and sheep are not fond of white clover ! Sect. 19. Price of timber, and state of it in the i county. Ash, from 2s. 6d. to 5s* per foot. Oak, very little (if any) to cut, that could be sold by the foot. Elm, very little, from 3s. to 4s. per foot. Beech, from 3s. to 4s. per foot. Couples for cabins, from 2s. 6d. to 5s. Stretchers or thevauns, ten or twelve feet long, from 5s. to 6s. per dozen. Oak stakes to support the wattling of eel- weirs, from 5s. to 6s. per dozen. Oak wattles for eel- weirs, from 5s. to 10s. per hun- dred ; they are usually split down the middle, and are generally brought from Tinneranna to Killaloe. Sallows for making baskets, 2s. 2d. per hundred.* Scollops of hazel, &c. 6d. per hundred. Pair of baskets for a horse, which a man will make in a day, 2s. 3d. 2 o 2 A turf- * About 200 sallows of two years' growth will make a turf-kish of a cubic yard. 23* STATISTICAL SURVEY A turf-kisb, which he will make in a day, from 4s. to 5s. A hurdle, seven feet long by five feet broad, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. 4cL Tubs for butter, twenty-one inches, 4s. 4d. Do. nineteen inches, 3s. 9\d. Firkins, 3s. 9\d. Oak bark (1807) from 20/. to 22/. 155. per ton. Sallow and birch bark, 15/. per ton. In some places, birch bark only 8/. per ton. No price for mountain ash bark, its value not known by tanners. Bog timber consists of fir, oak, and yew, but chiefly fir and oak ; in red bogs fir is generally found, and in black bogs oak predominates. Fir timber is frequently found of very large dimensions ; most of the farmers' houses near bogs are roofed with this timber, which, if kept dry, is everlasting, and is always preferred to oak for inside work. A tree of this kind was lately found in a bog near Kilrush ; it was purchased by Mr. Patterson of that town for 14/. 9s. 6d. ; it measured at the thickest end thirty-eight inches in diameter, and at upwards of sixty-eight feet long, thirtv-one inches ; it was very fine sound timber, and produced him upwards of 36/. ; by age and the action of the atmosphere it had lost so much of its original bulk, that the part preserved was merely the heart, and not near half its OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 2&5 \ts original size. There was another of immense size lately found near Mount Callan ; I could not ascertain the dimensions, but was informed that, when a cross-cut saw of good length was brought, it was thicker than the saw was long. The man- ner of finding these trees in bogs is somewhat curious ; very early in the morning, before the dew evaporates, a man with a long small sharp spear goes into the bog, and, as the dew never lies on the part over the trees, be it ever so deep, he can ascertain their length, and on putting down his spear can easily find, whether they are sound or rotten ; if sound, he marks with a spade the spot ivhere they lie, and at his leisure proceeds to extricate them from their bed. A great number of Scotch fir in hedge-rows may be seen near Bridgetown, the estate of Cap- tain Brown. I only mention this to shew the ab- surdity of planting this tree in single rows; they are all knots and worth very little; however in a country so destitute of trees they have a chearful appearance. Alder is a timber generally despised; but, if it is of a sufficient age, it is little inferior to maho- gany ; it has many other perfections ; it makes the very best bolsters for cars, and for bushing the eye of the lower mill-stone round the spindle, as it never takes fire by friction; when used for handles for. tools m STATISTICAL SURVEY tools it does not blister the bands ; and the leaves and bark are so disagreeable to cattle, that they never brawze on it. Sect. 20. Quantity of bog and waste ground — the possibility and means of improving ihem y and the obstacles to their improvement. Bog forms in some baronies a very large parfe of the surface, principally in those of Tullagb, Moyferta, Ibrickan, and Clounderalaw ; in the rocky barony of Bnrrin as great a scarcity prevails, in so much that they are obliged in the maritime parts to import turf from Cunnamara. In flat situations bog is many feet deep, but that produced on moun- tains is not generally so deep, running from one foot to four or five: the bogs are all capable of improvement, at a moderate expence, particularly those situated on mountains. In the baronies of Ibrickan and Moyferta there are several miles square of bog, reaching from near Kilrush to Dunbeg. As there is water carriage for boats of thirty or forty tons to the head of Poulanisherry harbour, near three miles from the Shannon, lime could be easily brought by the boats, that supply Limerick from that place with turf for fuel. The limestone could be brought back from As- keaton and Aghenish, and laid down for about a shilling OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 287 shilling per ton in the midst of this region of bog ; this, if the stone is good, will make about six barrels of lime ; breaking the stone and burning \\d. per barrel; the fuel a mere trifle; so that, if the boat carries only thirty tons, two acres of ground may be reclaimed for ever by each cargo ; calcu- lations are always liable to error, but every person can make deductions or additions, as circumstances may direct. In the county of Wexford, lime is pur- chased with avidity at 3s. y\d. per ton, and drawn into the country twelve or fourteen miles, and fre- quently it is brought on horses' backs ; and we are informed in the Survey of Wexford, p. 97, ii that \ ( the poor people on the borders of Mount Lein- " ster have a journey to go for their lime, which " occupies them two days. With a poor wretched " horse they go in this manner to the lime-kilns, Ci bringing a barrel of lime at a time ; and this " journey they repeat forty times, in order to bring " forty barrels for manuring an acre of this land.'* Will it be believed in the county of Wexford, that a rich county of Clare farmer refused to draw it a mile on a good road, to improve a mountain, farm, where he had turf to burn it on the spot, and nothing to be paid for the stone ? Many would speculate on these bogs, but thev" are either leased, and thrown in as useless with other lands ; or, where they are not leased, though acknowledged 2SS STATISTICAL SURVEY acknowledged by the proprietors to be totally un- productive, and not worth a shilling an acre, yet these gentlemen, when applied to, will not give such lease as will encourage a monied man to venture his property on their improvement, nor will they improve them themselves; this dog in the manger disposition prevails in every part of Ireland, and has retarded the improvement of bog more than all other obstacles put together. Between Cahirmurphy and Kilmaley many miles square are almost without inhabitants; in a ride of upwards of eight miles I saw only one bird, a kite; yet the greater part of this dreary waste could be cultivated, and the entire could be planted ; if judiciously executed, and on a large scale, this could be done for a moderate sum, and would be, an immense property in a few years. In the few spots, where the ground has been cultivated by some herds, excellent crops are produced. In the barony of Tullagh many advances toward* improvement have been made by small farmers pro- pagating rape, but scarcely any one thinks of drain- ing, or improving by a top-dressing of lime, lime- stone-gravel, or marie, which in many places are to be had in any quantity ; but there is no im- provement carried on by any person of property on a scale sufficiently large to deserve notice, nor have I indeed in any part of Ireland observed a systematic OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 289 systematic and steady pursuit of this valuable im- provement; it has been a mere spurt, and pro- bably would never have been thought of, if some professional man had not happened to come into the neighbourhood. Shortly after the celebrated Mr. Elkington came to Ireland, we could hear of nothing but the ab- solute certainty of draining immense tracts of bog by means of a few auger-holes ; the bog of Allen was a mere trifle; but it was found, that the old method pursued by all those, who have made this their study, of intercepting the water from higher ground, was the chief mode adopted by him, and the auger only an occasional assistant ; and what he complained of I have often experienced, that most Irish gentlemen soon grow tired of the expence, and expect that, the moment a bog is drained, it must become green ; this it was, that disgusted Mr. Elkington with Irish gentlemen, Mho, he found, al- ways had their ears open to some follower or wise* man of the old school, who constantly attended at their elbow, and set their faces against any new improvement they did not understand, or of which they were not the advisers. This Irish practice has gone so far in some places, as to oblige Mr. Hill, the intelligent drainer to the Farming Society of Ireland, to refuse to act where he will not be 2 p permitted 290 STATISTICAL SURVEY permitted to finish his drains by Ins own men , otherwise they would be stopped, from interested motives, the practice decried, and bis character in- jured. 1 have frequently told a gentleman's wise- man what I intended to do for the improvement of the place, (I detest the idea of professional secrets,) and next day, in walking over the ground with both parties, I have heard my ideas detailed with great composure,, as the production of his own brain, and poor I was thrown completely into the shade, whilst at dinner the master exulted in having such a clever man; disgust would not let me come to any explanation, and I have generally left them to enjoy each other. It is curious to hear the objections made to the drainage of bogs; frequently it is said by those, whoso education should give them more enlightened ideas, that it would be impossible to drain some bogs, that it would take half a century to drain them, that they never would repay the expence, with numberless objections equally groundless. I never saw a bog, that could not be drained, other- wise it would be a lake ; the chief difficulty lies in obtaining the consent of different proprietors tQ join in the drainage, or permit a cut to be made through their ground ; and, until an act of parliament is obtained to oblige proprietors of land OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 291 to permit an outlet to be cut through their lands, on paying the damage, to be ascertained by a jury, extensive drainages or irrigation will never be ef- fected. J beg leave to press this on the compre- hensive mind of the Right Hon. Mr. Foster, as one of great national benefit, as it is highly probable, that extensive speculations will be made on this most necessary improvement in a country pos- sessing so many hundred thousand acres of bog and mountain. To improve bogs on a large scale, com- panies must be formed, and something like the mode of conducting canals must be pursued, and permanent sets of men constantly employed ; the petty mode at present pursued, where perhaps at the most ten acres are drained in a season, (with no small shrre of exultation even on this patch,) will not alter the face of the country for several cen- turies. The bog of Allen, containing between two and three hundred thousand acres, forms but a small part of those of Ireland. I have been fur- nished with many statements, aided by my own experience, of the expence and profit of this improvement in various parts of Ireland ; and the general result has been, that, at least in the third year, often the first, all expences are paid, and land, for which no rent could be obtained, has become worth from one to two guineas per acre. It is asto- nishing, that monied men, who are daily pn the 2 P 2 watch 292 STATISTICAL SURVEY watch to purchase land, should be so blind to their own interest and to that of their posterity, as to lay out money at six per cent., often less, instead of improving their own bogs, absolutely creating land, and receiving at least ten per cent, for money, which they have in their pockets. When a monied man is about to purchase an estate, instead ©f procuring the assistance of some person of skill in land and its capabilities to view it, as practised in England, and point out where perhaps great improvement may be made at a moderate expence, being totally ignorant of the quality of land himself, he perhaps employs some person, who knows more about drawing leases than draining ground, to inspect it; the report being favourable, and the title clear, he closes the bar- gain, leaving the improvement of the estate to those, who from want of either means or skill, or perhaps of a lease of sufficient length, leave that ground, which under a judicious drainage, and gra- velling or liming, might be made of ten times its present value, a mere caput mortuum at the ter- mination of the lease ; and to encrease the evil, perhaps one thousand acres of bog or mountain are thrown in with the farm as of no value, which perhaps an expenditure of 500/. would make worth annually 1000/., and the crops cultivated during the improvement, very probably, would pay njuch more OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 293 more than all the expences ; whilst in the hands of the tenant it produces little or no profit to him, nor rent to the landlord. A considerable quantity of turf is brought from Poulanisberry to Limerick, though a water carriage of upwards of forty miles; for this purpose, im- mense ricks are always ready on the shore; some- times the boats bring back limestone from Askeaton or Aghnish, but merely for the purpose of those buildings, that are advancing so rapidly in Kilrush ; none is brought for the improvement of the im- provement of the immense bogs, from which they dig the turf. It is a curious circumstance that, within a few yards of the rocky shore at Spanish point near Miltown Mai bay, several feet of good turf may be cut, and equally so, that long before this it has not been reclaimed by the sand, which is within a few perches of it. Although very great quantities of ground have been taken from the Shannon and Fergus, including all the rich corcasses, yet a very large portion still remains under the dominion of the water; Sir Edward O'Brien and Mr. Colpoys have it in contemplation to embank upwards of one hundred acres; I saw the ground, and do not entertain a doubt of its practicability, the water, I understand, not rising more than about seven feet in spring tides. It is to be hoped that, when they do re- claim 294 STATISTICAL SURVEY claim it, ft will not be in the same wretched, un- stable, unscientific manner, that such works are usually effected here ; they will also, I trust, make the necessary preparations for depositing the sedi- ment of the rich waters of the Shannon and Fergus, as practised with such great success in England, where it is called warping or silting, by which in a very short period they would raise the surface of the ground many feet higher than it is at pre- sent, and greatly facilitate the drainage. The word warping is applied in agriculture to describe that species of irrigation, which deposits a quantity of sediment from the flowing tide, and which forms a stratum of soil or manure, when the waters have receded from it. This definition of the word ap- pears to be chiefly limited to tide-water flowing from the sea, though the nature of the accumu- lation seems to be nearly the same with the siltage of fresh-water rivers, the redundancy of which, by way of distinction, is called flooding. The expence of warping will be greatly influenced by the situ- ation of the lands, and the course and distance, which the warp is to be conducted. The expence per acre will depend greatly on the extent of land, which may be overflowed by one and the same set of drains and doughs. Mr. Day of Doncaster thinks, that great quantities of land may be warped at so small an expence as from four to eight pounds per English OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 295 English acre ; and he states the advantages gained at various rates, from five to fifty pounds per acre* and considers the greatest advantage to arise from warping the worst and most porous land. Mr. Young, in his Survey of Lincoln, says, " the warp raises " the ground in one summer from six to eighteen i( inches thick, and in hollow, or low places, two, (i three, or ' four feet, so as to leave the whole " piece level. " For a further account of this va- luable improvement, see my Observations on the Coun y of Dublin Survey, page 89 of the Appendix. It is necessary to remark, that the expence of ex- ecuting this work in England includes the em- bankment as well as every thing else; but, as Sir Edward O'Brien and Mr. Colpoys mean to do this without any reference to warping, it should not be charged to that improvement, but merely the expence of two sluices, perhaps 5s. per acre. The bog and lake of Fenlow could be easily drained and improved, by deepening a small stream, that runs to Baliycar ; but, though the proprietors have offered almost a carte blanche to the owner of the stream, he obstinately persists in a refusal; the stream is so very insignificant, that for the greater part of the year it would scarcely supply a grist or tuck-mill ; yet a flour-mill on a large scale is in contemplation, and can never succeed, whilst the river Ougarnee is so very near. Can any tie STATISTICAL SURVEY any thing point out more plainly the necessity of an act to oblige proprietors of ground to permit drains for the general accommodation to run through their grounds ? If canal companies had heen left to the caprice or ill nature of individuals, we should not at this day have one of these noble works in' either Ireland or England. The great scene of improvement, (and which shews, what tenants will do when they get leases on moderate terms,) are the mountains between Kil- laloe and Broadford; the soil is a thin argillaceous one, on slate, mostly covered with short heath ; it is usually let by the bulk to tenants, who have improved ground adjoining; they generally divide them into small farms, and let them at an advanced rent after they have improved them ; for which purpose they commonly burn the surface, (if the landlord is not weak enough to prevent it,) and lime or marie, and plant potatoes ; then a crop of barley for the private stills, after that a crop of oats; by this time they have accumulated manure, and begin to plant their potatoes in drills. It has become frequent lately, from the great increase of population, to give small portions of their grounds to sons and daughters on their marriage. It is, with a few exceptions, the only place in the county, where the cottagers have every appearance and reality of comfort and cleanliness ; their cottages OF THE COUNTYOF CLARE. 297 are generally vveli thatched, and frequently white- washed, or at least the chimney, and always have half-doors to hang on in the day time, to keep out pigs, &c. &c, with cow-houses and pig-styes. How very different from the grazing parts of the county, where poverty and filth may always be seen in great perfection, even at the very gates of many wealthy graziers ! I am inclined to at- tribute something deleterious to the grazing sys- tem ; look to all the rich lands in Ireland ; do we not see in the proprietors the same indifference to the comfurts of the cottiers? In the mountains above-mentioned Mr. Arthur of Glenomera obliges his tenants to lime, at the rate of sixty or eighty barrels per acre ; the lime is brought from Donass, a distance of six miles, and costs the enormous sum of from 2s. 2d. to 25. 6d. per barrel, bad mea- sure. I suppose Mr. Arthur either allows them for the lime, or gives them the land on such terms as to encourage this expenditure. The harvest began here this year (1807) on the first of September, and was most abundant; and, contrary to the usual complaint of mountain oats, it ripened all together ; this may be justly attributed to the effect of cal- careous manures. In the mountains near Skarriff they lime and marl, but not with the spirit they do near Broadford. This may in some measure be accounted for ; they have all bishop's leases, a 2 ft species 298 STATISTICAL SURVEY species of tenure, that paralyses every exertion. Captain Hugh Brady allows his tenants any quan- tity of mountain, rent free, for twenty years, and also 30s. per acre for lime. The value of this manure is now becoming so well known, that the mountaineers carry it from O'Callaghan's mills, upwards of six miles. Sect. 21. Habits of industry, or want of it amongst the people. Habits of industry are chiefly confined to the lower order of farmers and cottiers; great exer- tions are often made by this class in removing stones, and collecting manure, too often from the sides of the roads. The women in the neighbour- hood of Corrofin and Innistymon are remarkably industrious, I wish I could say cleanly ; you will scarcely ever see one of them without a stocking in her hand, which she continues to knit whilst walking a quick pace to market; and even in the market-house, whilst selling or buying, her fingers are never idle. Almost all the wool made into friz* for the family is spun by the wife or daughters; their linen is also generally made at home. As to the industry of the wealthy graziers, it may be generally seen about their houses; it is not un~ frequent, that a man, who pays 2000/. a year rent, has scarcely a gate or fence about his house, a verv OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 299 very indifferent garden, with nothing in it but cab- bages ; often no cow-house; a collar to tie up a horse in a stable is a rarity, and in summer oats 1 or hay are equally so. The industry of the upper classes consists more in accumulating farm to farm, and dashing in full gallop from one to the other, than in a steady improvement of what they have already, though vastly more lucrative. The streets of Ennis are often crowded with young loungers, that had much better stay at home and endea- vour to redeem or at least improve that property, which the prodigality, or want of industry, of their ancestors has either deprived them of or encum- bered ; it would surely be more beneficial and amusing than the annoying the different shop- keepers with their " bald disjointed chat."* " There are many middlemen remaining in this " county, whose habitations and land may be easily " found by every mark of indolence ; such of " the windows, as are not stopped to evade the tax, " are small, with the few panes of glass remaining w either broken or their place supplied by paper, « or boards, or perhaps a rag or wisp of straw " or hay ; the inside corresponds with the outer " appearance ; decayed stairs, doors, and chimneys; 2 q 2 « tlxe * Since writing the above, a coffee-room and billiard-table have fteen added to their amusements, which* have taken a good many out of the streets. 300 STATISTICAL SURVEY " the ceilings of thin boards blackened by smoke " and dirt. The farm bears the same disgusting " appearance ; the gates and fences in ruin ; his ** pastures and meadows bearing more rushes than V grass, and the meadows grazed until June ; his " stock perhaps a cow or two, with as many half- '* starved horses : it will scarcely be credited, that " men of this description have incomes of from " 100/. to 500/. a year arising from the industry of u poor cottiers." The gentleman, who was so kind as to favour me with the above faithful picture, very justly calls them the drones of society. Yet these are the men, to whom the great landed absentee proprietors are fond of setting their lands, in preference to a tenantry, who, however deficient in skill or capital, always pay more, and with greater punctuality than these pests of society. Where a middleman takes waste ground, and, after improving it, relets it in divi- sions according to each man's capital, and lives on the land, shewing by his example the most bene- ficial course of crops, encouraging his tenants by procuring for them on reasonable terms grass-seeds and corn of the best kinds, and keeping for their use males of every species of useful animal, then he becomes one of the most beneficial members of the community ; but such exceptions I fear are very few. It is painful to state that, if this last im- proving OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 301 proving tenant's lease expired, the former wretch, on giving id. an acre more, would get the prefe- rence ; the highest bidder gets every thing from absentees, totally ignorant of what is going for- ward on their estates: and I presume to think, that a visit, and close inspection of their 'estates in Ireland, Would not only redound to their credit, but to the increase of their rent-roll. It is the fashion of the gentlemen, of this county to accuse the labourers of want of industry, and of laziness; when they are working for themselves, there is no appearance of it; indeed, when work- ing for others, at the low rates of wages they re- ceive, they are like all men of the same class throughout Ireland; they will do as little as they can. In my professional pursuits I have had men of every county in Ireland working under me, and 1 have found, that the inhabitants of this county, and of Gal way, do more work, and without that sulkiness and familiar impevtinence (not proceeding from ignorance) of those in the neighbourhood of Naas, in the county of Kildarc, and of Athboy, in the county of Meath, the former of whom got nine shillings per week, and were constantly on the watch to take every advantage ; in short they were never satisfied with any thing. The hurling matches, called goals, are very in- jurious to the morals and industry of the younger classes ; :502 STATISTICAL SURVEY classes; after performing feats of activity, that uould astonish a bread and cheese Englishman, they too often adjourn to the whiskey- house, both men and women, and spend the night in dancing, singing, and drinking until perhaps morning, and too often quarrels and broken heads are the effects of this inebriety; matches are often made between the partners at the dance ; but it frequently hap- pens they do not wait for the priest's blessmg, and the fair one must apply to a magistrate, who ge- nerally obliges the faithless Strephon to make an honest woman of her. On the strand of Lehinch races for saddles and bridles are run almost every Sunday in summer, and the night generally con- cludes with dancing and drunkenness; thev are O 'J become a great nuisance to those of the inhabi- tants, who are christians. In general the people are remarkably peaceable, travelling at night being equally safe as in the oonlickey, Scattery, Carrigaholt — inhabited, Cloghansevan. Ibrickan contains Dunmore — inhabited, Donogan, Dunbeg, Oarrush, Trumree, Moy. Of these 118 castles, tradition says, the family of Macnamara built 57. It will not be expected, that a description be given of every petty castle, which the feuds of ancient days made necessary to protect usurpations and robberies, or of those nu- merous small castellated houses, dignified with the name of castle, which were built by the English settlers in Queen Elizabeth's and other reigns, to defend them against the just resentment of the natives ; and though some individuals may be anxious, that an account of them should be detailed, it is probable few of the accounts would tend to the credit of the former possessors, and that they would hurt the feelings of the present ones ; besides, as much of the information is traditional, little depen- dance can be placed on any account handed down by those, who were necessarily partial.* Near * 1 understand a gentleman of the county intends shortly to fa- vour the public with a history of them t 1 wisA him a good deli- OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 313 Near Raheens, built in the water, may be seen the castle, into which some ruffians conveyed a young lady, with intent to force her to marry one of them ; she was immediately rescued by Henry Brady, Esq. of Raheens, and restored to her friends in perfect safety. A tender-hearted jury acquitted them of the felony. Bunratty castle, anciently the seat of the Earls of Thomond, is one of the largest in the county, and is inhabited by Thomas Studdert, Esq. ; it was built in 1277, and was either rebuilt or added to by Sir Thomas de Clare in 1597; it was besieged in 1305 bdt not taken; marks of cannon-shot are very visible in different parts of the wall, and se- veral cannon balls have been found, one of which weighed 39lbs. ; there was a small town here for- merly ; it was burned in 1314. \ EATHS. These abound in every part of the county ; they are generally of a round form, and are composed of either large stones without mortar, or earth thrown up and surrounded by one or more ditches, on which was formerly placed a stake hedge ; they are usually ascribed to the Danes, but it is highly probable many of them are of much more ancient origin, and that they have only been made use of by the Danes in their predatory incursions into this country, 2 s who, 5U STATISTICAL SURVEY who, finding their usefulness, may have imitated them ; for, as they were easily formed, they an- swered the purposes of free-booters, who only came for the purpose of plunder. In General Vallan- cey's Prospectus of an Irish Dictionary the fol- lowing explanation occurs: " The word rath sig- " nifies security, surety; see mal, riches, and ma- " ladair, a landholder. We find by the Breitham- " huin laws, when a man was worth a certain num- M ber of cattle to be security to the chief for " payment of the rent of a large tract of land, " which might be set to others, he was obliged " to erect a circular entrenchment of earth or stone, et or partly of both, in token of his holding under Ci the chief j this entrenchment was called rath, " that is, security. The law allows the rath to be " used as a sheep-fold, and for the better security " of the sheep stakes were driven into the top of " the entrenchment, and interwoven with bushes, il brambles, &c* When a maladair died, he was %i sometimes interred in the middle of the rath, and iC a moat was dug around (the outside commonly) to " furnish earth for the feart or tumulus, and then *' it had the appearance of a moat. Some of these " in the counties of Meath and Westmeath are " planted * It should be recollected that, as Ireland was almost all wood, it abounded with woltts and foxes ; the former of which have been aot very long extirpated, and the latter very much thinned. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 315 "planted with trees, and make a beautiful ap- *' pi-arance. These raths remain at this day, and " are most injudiciously called IJanes forts. The ■". Danes probably made a post of some, when si- " tuated on a rising ground, as we did in the last " rebellion; but when these injudicious antiquaries, " that name them forts, find three or four together (( with the peripheries of their circles not half a " stone's throw from each other, as in Salisbury plain, " and in many parts of Ireland, or when they find '* a rath situated at the foot of a hill, which com- " mands the rath, can these antiquaries say they Si were erected for offence or defence ? These puny " antiquaries may rest assured that, until they study il the oriental languages, and can translate the old "laws of Ireland, they can know little or nothing " of the antiquities of this country." Many of these raths have been formerly planted entirely with firs, which-are now, from want of thin- ning, grown naked at the bottom, and are become very disagreeable objects. One of these formal looking groupes occupies the place, that formerly contained the palace or castle of Brian Boroimdhe, called Ceanchora.* In this castle, after he became sole monarch of Ireland in 1022, he received an- nually, as a tribute from the princes dependant on him, for maintaining his state, 2670 beeves, 2 s 2 1370 * fceanckora signifies the head of the weirs, and the first weir uear Killaloe is nearly opposite to this place. 315 STATISTICAL SURVEY 1370 bogs, 420 loads or tons of iron, 500 mantles, 365 tons of claret from the Danes of Limerick, and from those of Dublin 150 pipes or butts of other wine : this tax was called Boroimdhe, and was received at the time of All Saints and sent to Ceanchora; to this place was also brought the fine of 1000 of each kind of cattle, which he exacted from the Leganians, as a punishment for having joined the Danes. . This place was destroyed by Domnhall Mac Ardgail prince of Tyrconnel, during the absence of IVIurtogh the grandson of Brien*. The king of Cashel received annually from Gor- cabhaiscin 200 beeves and 200 cows ; from Cor- comruadh 200 beeves and 200 cows, 200 mantles, with a fleet always ready ; and when the king had occasion for the forces of his tributaries, or to wait on him at any of his general assemblies, he sent, amongst others, to the prince of Corcomruadh ten untamed horses, and a silk garment. Domnhall prince of Corcabhaiscin was killed at the battle of Clontarf on Good Friday 22d of April 1034. When Sitricus the Danish tyrant demanded tri- bute from one of the Irish kings, he applied for assistance to the other chiefs, and was furnished by * All traces of this palace are almost obliterated, by planting, levelling, and other improvements-; thus one cf the most interesting antiquities in Ireland has been spoiled by modern iaste, that taste, which could permit hedges to be cut into different whimsical shapes, ]*e those in the days of London and Wise. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 317 by Corcabhaiscin with ten ships, and by Corcom- ruadh and Burrin with twenty, with which they sailed to Dundalk to the relief of their prince taken prisoner there ; in the battle, which ensued, two princes of Burrin and Corcumruadh, Connor and Loughlin,* killed the two brothers of the tyrant, Tor and Magnus, but soon after died of their wounds. CROjMLECHS Are to be seen chiefly in. the barony of Burrin, though there are a few in the other baronies. There is one at Bally gannor about forty feet long and ten feet broad, of one stone; the side stones or flags are upwards of six feet deep, besides what is sunk in the ground. There is also one in the deer-park of Lemenagh, another on the commons of Kilnaboy, one at Tullynaglashin, one at Mount Callan called Altoir na Greine, (altar of the sun,) and one at Ballykisshen ; this is a very remarkable one, and very capacious ; it was covered formerly with two large flags twelve or fourteen feet long each ; they were nearly shaped like the lid of a coffin, ajid were placed head to head ; one of them remains, but * One of the family of O'Loughlin now resides in Burrin, and is lineally descended from the ancient princes of that barony, and is stiled prince of Burrin j but he has too much sense to assume any airs i& consequence of his high birth. 313 STATISTICAL SURVEY but the other has been thrown down by a Pro- testant clergyman, who dreamed there was money buried under it* The celebrated tomb of Conaan, on "Mount Callan, still remains perfect; it was erected A. D. 259. Many laughable anecdotes are told of the efficacy of Darby and Crane's bed, as they are called by the country people. If a woman proves barren, a visit with her husband to Darby and Grane's bed certainly cures her. On enquiring, from some country girls near Ballygannor, where this cele- brated cromlech was, I was heartily laughed at for asking one of them, about sixteen years of age, to shew me the way to it ; after a long consul- tation with one somewhat older than herself, some- times with very serious countenances and often with smiling ones, and the elder one using a good deal of persuasion, she agreed to go with me if she Was certain I was a stranger, and she knew my name : as the conversation between themselves was in Irish, which I did not understand, and the even- ing was growing late, I became impatient, and very ungallantly rode away.f When I had rode a mile farther, I made the same * It argues a most deplorable want of taste in the proprietors of land, where these antiquities are erected, to suffer them to be destroyed or mutilated. . -f For a curious coincidence of custom see General Vallancey's Prospectus, page 24.; and for which purpose only it is worth re- pr-atinjc OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 319 same enquiry from a herd's wife, and at the same time told her how I had been laughed at by the girls; she said no wonder for them, for it was the custom that, if she went with a stranger to Darby and Crane's bed, she was certainly to grant him every thing he asked. Near this last mentioned cromlech, and to the N. E., are two smaller ones, and the remains of a stone rath, in which part of a covered passage is still visible. These monuments of high antiquity are very erroneously called in Irish Leabha Diarmuid is Grane, or Darby and Grane's bed or burial place ; for, that they were used for the performance of some religious ceremony is evident from their having an inclination to the east or south-east ; they were called altars from the Chaldee word lebah a flame. Certainly many were used as a place of sepulture, because bones have been frequently dug up from under them, but those, which have been used for this purpose, are entirely different in their con- struction, and betray, by their superior work~ [ manship, their erection at a period long after those, which, by their simplicity of stile and ma« terials, claim a title to a very high antiquity.* I have * As it would have been very difficult to have found a sufficient quantity of earth in rocky ground to have formed a tumulus, per- haps this method of burying a makdair might have been substituted. 320 STATISTICAL SURVEY have seen one, that had the sides and covering stone elegantly cut, and neatly joined, in which, I was informed, bones had been formerly found. Sect. 24. List of Parishes, Barony of Burrin. Abbey, Drumkreehy, Oughtmoma, Kilkorney, Kathborney, Killoneghan, Glenvaan, Glunning, Kilmouny, Killaney, NohavaU, Karne, Crunane, Glancolumkille. Barony of Corcomroe. Killelugh, Kilshanny, Tomalin, Kilfenora, — cathedrals Kilmacreeby, Cloony, Killaspuglonane, Kilmanaheen. Barony of Inchiquin. Killinamonagh, Kilwedane, Raghe, Kilmacduagh,' — there is Dysart, another of this name in' Kiltuitogh, the county of Galway. Kilnaboy, Kilkeedy, Corrofin, Kiltacka, Cood, Moone, Baron v OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 321 Ennis, Cloundegad, Killone, Barony of Islands. Clare Abbey, t)rumkleeve.* Barony of Inchicronan, Kilraftis, Cloney, Quin, Doroney, Templemaley, — J acre glebe — no glebe-house. Tominlagh, Killenasulogh,— -1 5 acres of glebe. Kilmallery, Kilconry, Bunratty. Clonlaghen, Drumline, Fynagh, Bunratty, Kilfintinan, Coonock, Killeby, — in the liberties of the city of Limerick. Meelick, Saint Muntions, Kilquaine. Barony of Tullagh. Feacle, Clonley, Frenagheragb, Cruigh, Tullagh, Kilmurry, 2 T Kilfenaghta, * The rector does duty in Ennis ; three acres of glebe. In this church, though it has every appearance of antiquity, well cut stones, that evidently belonged to some former and better kind of building, are worked up with the other rough stones. 322 STATISTICAL SURVEY Kilfenaghta, Killikenneda, Ballyshine, Killuran, Moinoe, Killeely, Tomgrany, Donass, Killud, Kiltanlea, Toogonela, Inniskalto — has been long in Aglish, controversy with county Killaloe, Galway. Killard, Kilmurry, Kilfarboy, Barony of Ibrickan, Innisclea, Miltown. ivilballyhone, Ross, Moyferta, Killenedane, Kilfieragh, Barony of Moyferta. Kilrush, Kilmacduane,< Killeroney, Kilnagleagh, Mollough. Four acres of glebe and house, which has jbeen lately built with * every attention to i stability and conve- nience under the in- spection of the Rev. ,Mr. Whitty. Barony of Clounderalaw. Killimer, Kilfadin, Kilmurry M'Mahon, Kildysert, ICihnighill, Kilchrist. SECT, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 323 Sect. 25. Abbeys, Beagh, In the barony of Burrin ; there was a monastery of the third order of Franciscan friars. The abbey of Beagh and the town-land of Abbeybeaghan are mentioned in the records. N. B. There are no traces of this abbey at pre- sent ; probably it may have been mistaken for one of that name in the barony of Clare, county of Galway, Ceanindis or Keannindse, \ Is the name of a hill in Dalcassia, now the county of Clare ; St. Comgall, who was abbot of Gleanussen in the King's County, founded a church here ; he died before the year 569. Clare or Kilmony, or abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul, On the river Fergus, anciently called also Forgy, in the barony of Islands, about a mile from Ennis, and not, as mentioned in the Monasticon Hibernicum, where the Fergus falls into the Shannon, for it k above seven miles from the junction of the two 2 t 2 > rivers 324 STATISTICAL SURVEY rivers. This abbey was founded under the invoca- tion of St. Peter and St. Paul for canons regular, following the rule of St. Augustine, by Donald O'Brien, the great king of Limerick ; he appointed Donatus abbot, and richly endowed the abbey. The charter was dated at Limerick in 1195, and witnessed by M. archbishop of Cashel, D. bishop of Killaloe, A. bishop of Fenabore, (Kilfenora,) and B. bishop of Limerick. Thady, bishop of Killaloe, exemplified king Donald's ancient charter in this monastery on the 18th of July 1461. In 1543 King Henry VIII. granted the abbey to the Baron of Ibrachan, together with a moiety of the rectories of Kilchrist, Kilmoyle, Kilmacduan, Killurocragb, Ballinregdan, Ballylogheran, and Bal- lylegford. This abbey was granted in fee to Donough Earl of Thomond, January 19, 1620, and a new grant was afterwards made in September the 2st, 1661, to Henry Earl of Thornond. Corcornroe, or abbey of St. Maty, Anciently called Corcamruadh, a small village in the barony of Burrin. It was thrice plundered by Roderic O'Connor and Dermot O'Brien in the }*ear 1088. A. D. 1194. Donald king of Limerick founded a sumptuous of The county of glare. 325 a sumptuous monastery here for Cistertian monks, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary -, others say, that Donagh Carbrac his son was the founder, in the year 1200. This abbey was also called the abbey of the fruitful rock, and was a daughter of that of Suire; - it was afterwards made subject to the celebrated abbey of Furnes in Lancashire. The cell of Kil- sonna, alias Kilshanny or Kilsane,* was some time afterwards annexed to this house; the founder died the same year. 1267. Donogh O'Brien, king of Thomond, was killed in the battle, that was fought at Siudaine in the barony of Burrin ; he was solemnly interred in this abbey, where a grand monument was erected to his memory, the remains of which are to be seen to this day.f 1317. A dreadful battle was fought near this town, in which many of the principal of the O'Briens fell ; amongst the slain were Teige, and Murtogh Garbh, sons of Brien Ruadh, king of Thomond. 1418. The abbot John was made bishop of Kil- macduagh. This * In the barony of Corcomroe, and now a parish wholly impropriate. •f- A few years ago some giddy young gentlemen took it into their heads to amuse .themselves with mutilating some part of this ancient monument ; they were pursued by the country people, and, if over- taken, in all probability would have been served as they richly deserved. 326 STATISTICAL SURVEY .This abbey, with eleven quarters of land, in Corcomroe and Glanemanagh, was granted to Richard Harding. Ennis, On the river Fergus, in the barony of Islands, is a market and borough town ; it was anciently called Inniscluanruadha, and one of the suburbs, where a fair is held, is now called Clonroad.* 1240. About this time Donogh Carbrac O'Brien built a very noble and beautiful monastery here for conventual Franciscan friars. 1305. The annals of Innisfallen inform us, that this monastery was built or repaired this year by Terlagh the son of Teige Caoluiske O'Brien, who presented the friars with holy crosses, embroidered vestments, and other needle-work, cowls, and every necessary furniture, beautiful book-cases, and blue painted windows. 1306. Died Cumheadha Mor Macnamara; he was interred with his king in this monastery. This year Dermot the son of Doncha, son of Brien-roe, at the head of a powerful army of Irish and Eng- lish, entered the, town, and burned and destroyed every house in it. 1311. * Mac Curtln, in his Antiquities of Ireland, mentions, that at one time there were at Clonroad upwards of 600 scholars, together with 350 monks, maintained by O'Brien, prince of this county, after the coming of the English, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 327 1311. About this time Donogh, king of Tho- mond, bestowed the entire revenue of his princi- pality towards the support of the poor friars of this monastery, and for enlarging and beautifying their house. 1313. Dermot O'Brien, prince of Thomond, was buried in this monastery, in the habit of a Fran- ciscan friar. 1343. Moriertach O'Brien, the son of Theodoric prince of Thomond, died on June the 5tb, and was buried here ; and the same year Mathew Mac Co- mara, called the blind, who built the refectory and sacristy of the monastery, was buried here in the habit of the order. 1350. Pope Clement VI. granted several indul- gences to this monastery, and Theodoric the son. of Donogh O'Brien was interred therein. 1364. Dermot O'Brien, late prince of Thomond, died on the vigil or the conversion of St. Paul at Ardrahan in the county of Gal way, but he had his sepulture in this monastery. 1370. Mathew O'Brien, prince of Thomond, dying on the feast of St. Philip and St. James, was also interred here. 1375. This year king Edward III. moved with compassion for the poverty of this house, and the scarcity of provisions in this part of the country, granted a licence., dated at Limerick, August the 22dj 3fc* STATISTICAL SURVEY 22d, to the guardian and friars to enter into the English pale and purchase provisions of every kind ; and he also granted a licence to Marian Currydany, a brother of the house, to go to the city of Ar- gentine in Almania (or Germany) to study in the schools. This friary was reformed by the Fran- ciscans of the strict observance. In a rental of the crown, in the year 1577, in the office of the Auditor general, the crown was then in possession of the site of this monastery, a mill on the river Fergus, and an eel and salmon-weir, with some houses and gardens in the village. On the 1st of June, 1621, it was granted to William Dongan, Esq. Many of the ancient ornaments of this building, particularly a very fine window, uncommonly light and of exquisite workmanship, still remain ; this, with other similar instances, must argue the refined taste of our ancestors. It is now the parish church, which occupies only a part of the ancient build- ing ; what a pity the end next this beautiful win- dow had not been chosen for this purpose ?• but perhaps modern taste would have altered the window, as it has removed many of the old monuments. In a few years there will not be a vestige of the building; every person, that chooses, may pull down any part of it, and, instead of pointing the joints of the beautiful window, it will probably share the fate of the other parts. Enniskerry OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 329 Enniskerry or Inniscaorach. There are two islands of this name about three miles from the main land of the 'barony of Ibrickan. St. Senan of Iniscattery built an abbey on Innis- caorach in the territory of Hybreccain (Ibrickan) in Thomond.* Finish, An island in the river Shannon, where it receives the river Fergus. St. Bridget, the daughter of Conchraid of the family of Mactalius, presided over an abbey of nuns in the island of Inisfidhe or Cluanefidhe in the 5th century, in the time of St. Senan. It is an island in the Fergus, in the ba- rony of Bunratty, and parish of Kilconry. Gleanchaoin. < This valley is in Hy Luigdheach, in Munster, at the bounds of the see of Killaloe. St. Patrick built an abbey here ; this place is now unknown. 2 u Glanchohdmchilk. * It is now called Mutton island, is the property of Mr. Bolton, and contains about 120 acres of good land; it feeds oxen, sheep,, and rabbits, and sets for 1001. per annum. A large quantity of kelp ts made here. 330 STATISTICAL SURVEY Glanchohdmch Me. St. Columb founded this abbey ; it is now a parish church (in ruins) in the diocese of Kilfenora, barony of Burrin, and parish of Karne. Inchycronane ', Is an island in the river Shannon;* Donald O'Brien, king of Limerick, founded an abbey in the island of Irichycionane for Regular canons about the year 1190. This- abbey and a moiety of the tithes of the parish of Inchycronane were granted to Donogh, earl of Thompnd, January 19, 1620, and again in fee to Henry, earl of Thomond, Sept f, 1661. Inchmore or Inismore, (the great island.} An island in Loughree in the river Shannon. j St. Senan, the great saint of Iniscattery, built an abbey * So say* Archdall m the Monastieon Hibernicum ; but there is no such island as Inchycronaae in the Shannon \ the abbey of Inchycro- nane is about six miles north of Ennis, in the barony of Sunrattr, and is in a small island Surrounded by a little rivulet. •f- Innismore is in the river Fergus, and is called Deer-island ; it is in the barony of Clounderalaw and parish of Kilchrist, and u >i in Loughree, as stated above from the Monasticon. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 331 abbey at Inismore, and placed St. Liberius one of his disciples over it ; his memory is still celebrated in this island. Inisanlaoi. Turlogb, son of Teige Caoluisge, son of Connor na Suidaine O'Brien kins: of Thomond. built a mas- nificent abbey here, in which he was buried in the year 1305. The site is not known at present. Iniscunla 9 In Hy Ledna, an ancient territory in this county ; St. Senan built a church here, and placed over it the saints Finan and Finnen. This church is now unknown. i Iniskeltair, An island in Lough Derg in the river Shannon, and on the borders of the counties of Clare and Galway. St. Camin founded an abbey here, which was afterwards a church, and still retains his name ; he died in the year 653, and was buried in his own church ; his feast is observed on the 25th of March. St. Stellan the abbot died May the 24th, about three years before St. Camin. 2 u 2 St. 332 STATISTICAL SURVEY St. Coelan, a monk of this abbey, flourished about the end of the 7th or beginning of the 8th cen- tury. He wrote a life of St. Brigid in latin verse, in which he expressly tells us, that this abbey was a convent of Benedictines : Keltra est com-entus rite vi rorum Prudentum, sacro Eenedicti dogmate florens. 834. This island was ravaged by the Danes, and the same year it was destroyed with fire by Tomar a Danish commander from Limerick. 1027. The great Brien Boroimhe, monarch of Ireland, erected the church of Iniskeltair about this time. 1040. Corcran was abbot of Iniskeltair; he was the most celebrated ecclesiastic of the west of Europe, both for religion and learning, and died this year at Lismore. 1043. Died St. Amnichad ; he was a disciple of the abbot Corcran ; his feast is held on the 30th of January. 1315. Brien O'Brien, brother to Donogh king of Thomond, was constrained to take shelter in this island. There yet remains here a fine round tower, with seven small churches, which bespeak in mi- niature an elegance of taste. This island is re- markable for the great resort of pilgrims on cer- tain festivals. Jnnislm* OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 333 Inislua, Was anciently called Inisluaidhe,* an island in the river Shannon, between Limerick and the island of Iniscattery. St. Senan of Corcabaiscin founded a monastery here before the coming of St. Patrick into Munster, and St. Moronoc, called the peniten- tiary of Inisluaidhe, had a cell here at the time of St. Senan's death. Inisnegananagh, Or the island of Canons, now called Elanagra- nocb, in the river Shannon, and barony of Cloun- deralaw, near the principality of Thomond. Donald O'Brien king of Limerick in the twelfth century founded or rebuilt a priory here for Canons regular, following the rule of St. Augustin. In a rental of the crown estate, in the year 1577, the crown was then seized, in right of this abbey, of the farm of the island, viz. four acres of arable, fourteen of mountain and pasture, and the site of the said abbey containing half an acre, a church, &c, three other islands called Inishorlth, (now Horse-island,) Iniskeirke, (now InissarkJ and Inistubred, (now Inistubber,) £ Probably Low- island, near the junction of the Shannon and Fergus. 334 STATISTICAL SURVEY Inistubber,) near the said island of Canons ; the land called Iniskedragh not far from the river of Gal way, containing thirteen acres of mountain ; also two parts of the tithes of the rectory of Kildysert Murhull, and the vicarage of Kilchrist in Thomond. The moiety of the said abbey of canons, and that of Clare, and the moiety of the churches of Kil- christ, Killonyle, alias Killenoyle, Kilmadovane, alias Killuichdowen, Killoveragh, Ballymacegan, alias Ballymacregan, Ballyloughbran, and Bally- loughfadela, and the chapel of Killowe, with all their tithes and profits, and the tithes of the demesne and lands of the same abbey, were granted in fee to Donogh, Earl of Thomond, June 20, 1 605, x and confirmed to him on March 8, 1609; they were again granted in fee to Henry Earl of Thomond, on September 1, 1661. Inis-Scaiteiy. I; was anciently called Inisscathy, Iniscathuigh 3 «nd Cathiana, a rich and beautiful island in the mouth of the river Shannon. St. Senan of Cor- cabaiscin founded an abbey here before the arrival of St. Patrick in Munster, as some report, but others «ay, that St. Patrick himself was the founder, and that he placed St. Senan here. He had eleven churches for his monks, and no women were per- mitted OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 335 mitted to land on the island before the coming of the Danes into this country. The prelates of this noble and ancient church are sometimes called by ecclesiastical historians bishops, . and at other times abbots. In process of time it became a priory of regular canons. A. D. 538. St. Kieran, who was called the son of the carpenter, having left the island of Arran, came hither, and was made providore for the stran- gers by St. Senan. , 544. St. Senan died on the first of March, and was buried in the abbey. His festival is observed on the 8th day of that month, and a superb mo- nument was erected to his memory. This saint's bell is still religiously preserved in the west part of the county, and is called the golden bell, and many of the common people believe at this day, that to swear by it falsely would be immediately followed by convulsions and death. This custom is not confined to this place or time, for we find in the Survey of Kildare, that the bell of St. Evan in the 7th century had the same veneration at- tached to it. St. Odian was the immediate suc- cessor to St. Senan. 192. Died Olcbobhar the son of Flann ; he was "airchennach or ethnarch (archdeacon) of this abbey ; his feast is held on the 27th of October. 816. The 336 STATISTICAL SURVEY 816. The Danes plundered the island this year, put the monks to the sword, and defaded the monument of the saint. 835. About this time the same barbarians again sailed up the Shannon, and destroyed the mo- nastery. 861. Died the abbot Aidan. 908. Cormac Mac Cuillenan, the learned and pious archbishop of Cashel, and king of Munster, was slain in the battle of Moyalbe, not far from Leighlin. Flaithbeartach the son of Ionmuinein, was then abbot of this monastery, and was the great fomenter of this war, in which the good bishop lost his life. In his will Cormac bequeathed to this abbey three ounces of gold, and to the abbot his choicest sacred vestments. The abbot for his con- cern in Cormac' s melancholy fate was closely im- prisoned for two years, and then ordered to a severe penance in this monastery ; afterwards he so far recovered his power and influence, that on the death of Dubhlachtna, who had succeeded king Cormac, he was elected to fill the throne of Munster. 914. Some Danes landed at Water ford, but they were defeated by Flaithbeartach, who in the annals is called prince of Idrona. 944. Flaithbeartach died this year. 950. The Danes were become so powerful about this OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 337 this time, that they made this island a place of arms. * 958. Died Noyman of Inisscatthy. 972. A Danish chieftain, Mark, the son of Harold, sailed round Ireland, and committed great devas- tations on this island, taking much treasure and many captives. 975. Brien king of Munster and Domnhall king of Ionmhuinein recovered this island from the Danes by defeating Iomhar the Norman and his two sons, Amhlaibh and Duibheheann ; 500 of the Danes, with MBMfc and his two sons, who fled thither for safety some time before, were slain in this battle. 994. Died Colla the abbot and doctor of Iniss- cathy. 1050. Died Hua-schula the ethnarch of this abbey. 1057. Diarmuid Mac Maoilnambo, with the Danes of Dublin, plundered this island, but they were overtaken and defeated by Donogh the son of Brien. 1801. Died the abbot O'Burgus. 1176. This abbey was again plundered by the Danes of Limerick. 1179. William Hoel, an English knight, wasted the whole island, not even sparing the churches. 1188. Died Aid O'Beachain, bishop of Inisscathy. 1195. Inisscathy was at this time a bishop's see, afterwards united to Limerick, and sooo after to 2 X that 338 STATISTICAL SURVEY that of Killaloe, when Charles O'Heney was bishop in 1195. Richard de London was guardian of this abbey, but the date is not recorded. 1290. Thomas le Chapelin was guardian after Richard; he was guardian also in the vear 1295. April 24th, and 20th of Queen Elizabeth, this abbey with the church-yard, twenty-four acres of land, a house, a castle built of stone and three cottages in the island, and the several customs following ; from every boat of oysters, coming to the city of Limerick, once a year, 1000 oysters; and from every herring-boat 500 herrings once a year ; also ten cottages, one church in ruins, twenty acres of wood and stony ground in the said island called Beachwood, with all the tithes, &c were granted to the mayor and citizens of Limerick, and their successors for ever in free soccage, not in capite, at the annual rent of Si. I2s> 8d. The monument of St. Senan is still to be seen here, with the remains of eleven small churches and several cells ; in the stone, that closes the top of the altar window of the great church, is the head of the saint, with his mitre boldly executed, and but little defaced ; an ancient round tower, 120 feet in height and in good repair, graces the scene. This island is remarkable for the resort of pilgrims on certain festivals. Jnistymon, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 339 Imstymon, In the barony of Corcomroe ; St. Luchtigbern was abbot of Inistymensis or Inistomcnsis. Jvilcarragh.* There was an hospital or monastery here, of which we have no further account, than that it was endowed with a quarter of land adjoining thereto, which at the dissolution was granted to John King. Kilfarboy, In the barony of Ibrickan, is now a parish church (in ruins). The monastery of Kilfobrick was founded A. D. 741. We find that Cormac, bishop and scribe of Kilfobrick, died A. D. 837. Kilfenora, Anciently called Fenabore and Celumabrach, in the barony of Corcomroe. The Annals of Munster tell us, that Murrough O'Brien burned the abbey of Kilfenora, and slew many people therein A. D, 2x2 1055, * It is very near Kilfenora, on the estate of George Lysaght, £scj. 340 STATISTICAL SURVEY 1055. It was in the year 1660 given in commendam to Samuel Pullen then archbishop of Tuam. Kiilaloe. Was anciently called Kildalua, Ceandaluan, the church of St. Fachnan, and Loania, or the habitation on the wave ; the scat of a bishop, and situated on the western banks of the Shannon, near the noted cataract. St. Molualobhair, the grandson of Eocha Baildearg king of north Munster, founded an abbey iiere about the beginning of the 6th century.* He was succeeded by his disciple St. Flannan, who about the year 639 was consecrated bishop of the place ; from this time we hear no more of it as an ab- hey. Kiilaloe was anciently the resort of many pilgrims. Ecclesiastical divisions of the diocese of Kiilaloe. according to the Rev. Dr. Beaufort. The diocese of Kiilaloe was founded early in the 5th century; in the 12th it was incorporated with the ancient bishopric of Roscrea founded in 620; * Mc. Cunin's Vindication of the History of Ireland states, that Brien Boromhe built the churches of Kiilaloe and Iuiscathra, and leedified *he 6teeple of Tomgraney. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 341 620 ; in the year 1752 the see of Kilfenora, which had been established about the 12th century, was united to it, and, though very small in extent and value, had continued separate until after the res- toration, when it was first annexed to the arch- bishopric of Tuam; that union continued eighty-one years until 1741, when, Ardagh being annexed to Tuam, this bishopric was given in commendam to the bishop of Clonfert. The diocese of Killaloe stretches eighty miles in length, through the counties of Clare and Tip- perary, into the King's county, and includes also a small part of the Queen's county, Galway and Limerick ; it varies in breadth from seven to twenty- five miles. Kilfenora is confined to the baronies of Burrin and Corcomroe, and extends only eighteen miles by nine. In the Chapter of each diocese there are stalls for a dean, precentor, chancellor, treasurer and archdeacon, and in that of Killaloe for five prebendaries. Of the patronage of these dioceses it is difficult to form an abstract, the rectories being mostly separate from the vicarages, and many of them in lay patronage ; thus multiplied in number, ten of them are in the gift of the crown, 131 in the bishop, and 36 in lay patrons j those 177 rectories and 342 STATISTICAL SURVEY and vicarages are united and condensed, if the ex- pression may be allowed, into fifty benefices. The church of Killaloe is not large for a ca- thedral, but venerable for its antiquity, and in good preservation, though built above 660 years ; it serves like many others for the parish church. Very near the little town of Killaloe, in the midst of a fine demesne, beautifully situated on the western bank of the Shannon, stands the episcopal residence, a handsome new house, erected by the late arch- bishop of Dublin (Fowler) when bishop of Killaloe. This see is fifty miles from the S. W. extremity of the diocese. In the diocese of Killaloe are contained, (in Clare only,) 426700 acres, 57 parishes, 20 benefices, 15 churches, 1 glebe- house, 15 glebes only, 6 benefices without glebes, 16 rectories impropriate. 5 wholly impropriate. Kilfenora OF THE COUNTY OF CtARE. 343 JCilfenora contain* 37000 acres, 19 parishes, 8 benefices, 3 churches, 1 glebe-house, 5 glebes only, 2 benefices without glebes, rectory impropriate, 2 wholly impropriate; &i)d to each church on an average 17513 acres!! Near the church of Killaloe is the building called the oratory of St. Moluah, reckoned one of the oldest buildings in Ireland ; it was built in the 7th century; it is arched with stone, and at present serves Dr. Martin for a cart-house, and a pen for sheep, that graze in the church-yard. KilnagaUagh, On the shore of the river Shannon, and two miles and a half N. W. of Inisscattery, in the Ibarony of Moyferta, and parish of Kilfieragh. St. Senan gave the veil to the daughters of Nateus in Kilcochaille, now called Kilnacaillech or the church pf the nuns, not far from Injsscattery. Killoen 9 344 STATISTICAL SURVEY Killoen, oxKittone, or Nunnery of St. John the Baptist, In the barony of Islands. About the year 1190 Donald O'Brien, king of Limerick, founded an abbey here for nuns, following the rules of St. Augustin, and dedicated it to St. John the Baptist. Slaney, the daughter of Donogh Carbrach, king of Thomond, was abbess of this nunnery, and died A. D. 1260; she was pre-eminent in devotion, alms-deeds, and hospitality to all the women then in Minister. J£ilshanny> In the barony of Corcomroe^, the cell of Kil- shann} r , alias Kilsonna or Kilsane, was annexed to the abbey of Corcomroe. This monastery, with all its appurtenances, mills, and fisheries, was granted to Robert Hickman. $>mn, Called also Quint or Quinchy, is in the barony of Bunratty, about five miles east of Ennis. An abbey was founded here early, which was con- sumed by fire, A. D. 1278. The monastery of Quin for Franciscan friars was founded in 1402 by Sioda-Cam Macnamara, but father OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 345 father Wadding places it in the year 1350, yet at the same time he declares, that he thinks it more ancient. Pope Eugenius the fourth granted a licence to Macnamara to place the friars of the strict ob- servance in the monastery, which, as Wadding observes, was the first house of the Franciscan order in Ireland, that admitted of that reformation. The same year Mac Cam Dall Macnamara, lord of Glancoilean, erected this monastery, being a beau- tiful strong building of black marble ; his tomb is still remaining. This monastery, with all the manors, advowsons, &c. of Daveunwall, Ichanee, Downagour, and divers others, with the site of all the heredi- taments thereof, was granted to Sir Turlogh O'Brien of Innishdyman (Innistymon) in fee, December 14, 1583. The Roman Catholics repaired this monastery in 1604. Bishop Pococke thus describes its pre- sent state: " Quin is one of the finest and most " entire monasteries, that I have seen in Ireland ; ** it is situated on a fine stream with an ascent " of several steps to the church ; at the entrance " one is surprized with the view of the high altar " entire, and of an altar on each side of the arch "of "the chancel. To the south is a chapel with " three or four -altar's in it, and a very gothic 2 y " figure 346 STATISTICAL SURVEY " figure in relief of some saint ; on the north side u of the chancel is a fine monument of the family ci of the Macnamaras of Ranee, erected by the " founder ; on a stone by the high altar the name " of Kennedye appears in large letters; in the middle, ei between the body and the chancel, is a fine tower " built on the gable ends. The cloister is in the " usual form with couplets of pillars, but is par- '" ticular in having buttresses round it by way of " ornament ; there are apartments on three sides " of it,, the refectory, the dormitory, and another " grand room to the north of the chancel, with a " vaulted room under them all; to the north of the " large room is a closet, which leads through a pri- " vate way to a very strong round tower, the walls " of which are near ten feet thick. In the front of " the monastery is a building, which seems to have " been an apartment for strangers, and to the " south-west are two other buildings." It remains nearly in the same state as when the bishop wrote, but greatly disfigured by the superstitious custom of burying within the walls of churches. The south end, built by one of the family of Macnamara, is much superior in neatness of workmanship to the adjoining parts. There are the remains of a curious representation of a crucifixion in stucco on the wall near the high altar, that has escaped, I believe, the OF THE COUNTY OF CLAR] the observation of all travellers. A pigeon-house, eel-weir, and good water, were amongst the com- forts the good friars enjoyed at Quin. Rosslesenchoir , Near the western ocean. St. Cocca, nurse to St. Kieran, was abbess of a nunnery here, which is now wholly unknown, Shraduffe or Templedisert. On the 12th of March, 1611, the site of this abbey, and the possessions thereunto belonging were granted in fee to Sir Edward Fisher, knight ; this is the only information we have, that there was a religious house here. Six-mile- bridge. Called in Irish Abhuinn O'Gearna, from the river Gearna or Ougarnee, which runs from thence to the Shannon. There was a chapel or vicarial house near to this town, which did belong to the Dominicans of Limerick, but of this there are now no remains. 2 y 2 Tomgraney, 345 STATISTICAL SURVEY \ . Tomgraney, Anciently called Tuaimgraine, about a mile west of Lough Derg; an abbey was founded here early. A. D. 735. Died the abbot St. Manchin. 747- Died the abbot Connell. 791. Died the abbot Cathnia O'Guary. 886. The abbey was plundered. 949. It received the same treatment. 964. Cormac O'Killeen, a man famous for his learning and good works, died this year; he was abbot of Tuaimgraine and of Roscommon ; he was also both abbot and bishop of Cionmacnois, and built the church and steeple of this abbey. 1002. Died the abbot Dungal; he was the son of Beaon. 1027. Brien Boroimhe, the famous monarch of Ireland, repaired the steeple about this time. 1078. Died the abbot Cormac Hua Beain. 1084. O'Ruark of Breffiny reduced this abbey to ashes, but the fate he merited soon overtook him, for he fell by the troops of Thomond. 1164. This abbey was put into the same mi- serable state this year. 1170. It was plundered again about this time. Tomgraney OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 349 Tomgraney is now a parish church in very bad repair, and in the gift of Mr. Brady of Raheens. It has been generally remarked, that the land around old abbeys is generally very good ; the cause is usually mistaken for the effect, for though the ground in some instances is naturally good, yet it is to a superior and long continued culti- vation and manuring it is to be attributed ; at the same time we may suppose the monks, like their brethren of every persuasion, had no aversion to the good things of this world. Resident clprgy only. Rev. Frederick Blood 9 ) '' i ■ " m , „ J- Rath, Kilkeedy, Corrofin. &c. Rev. Thomas Lane, $ Ji ' (Union of Kilrush, Kil- lard,Kilneragh,Moy- Rev. J. Graham, curate, £ ferta)and K ilballyhone. Rev. Mr. Whitty, Tullagh. Rev. Mr. Weldon, Ennis. Rev. Mr. Reid, Tomgraney, /-» Union of Six-mile bridge, Rev. Mr. Miller, rector, VKiIconry,Clonloghan, Bun- Kev.Mr. Holland, curate, K ratt y> Feenagb, Kilfenagh- thirty years. /tin, containing 12264 acres, v-»and three acres of glebe. Rev. 330 STATISTICAL SURVEY Rev. John Palmer, Kilnasullogh, Kilmurry, Clon- logiran, 15 acres of glebe. Rev. William Kadlock. Rev Mr. Butler. Rev. James Martin. Rev. Michael Fitzgerald, rector of Quin, Dowry, , and Cloney. Rev. Michael Davoren, rector, ) > Miltown. , Rev. Andrew Davoren, curate, ) Rev. James Kenny. Rev, Oliver Grace, curate, Rathborney, &c. &c. ; lives eleven miles from the church. I regret the clergy did not furnish me with a more correct list. Frequently some part of a parish is contained in an adjoining one ; for instance, part of Killo- nehan in Glanning, of Kilmouny in Killonehan, of Rathborney in Kilmouney, of Kilmooney in Kil- lelagh, and in another barony, &e. &c. Some years since the late Rev. Dr. Columbine left by will XOOl. in the hands of Edward Burton, Esq. of Clifden, the interest to be applied in mar- riage portions to as many young protestant couples •as complied with certain religious duties. I fear it has been little better than a premium on hy- pocrisy. A handsome new church has been lately built at Six-mile-bridge, another at Miltown, and one at OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 35i at Quin, a disgrace to the parish ; what an architect, to build such a vile imitation of Quin abbey, and even where the eye could take in both at one time ! The churches in general seem greatly neglected ; the seats are scarcely ever dusted, except by the coats of the congregation ; the windows are seldom opened to admit fresh air ; indeed this is the less ne- cessary, as there is generally plenty of broken panes, broken doors, and broken roofs. If a church has been white-washed once in five or six years, the spattering remains on the windows, until the rain washes it off. The church of Tuliagh (1807) is particularly dirty and ruinous, the windows and ceiling full of cobwebs, the seats full of dust, and three marble monuments (to the disgrace of the fa- milies, to whom they belong) completely in mourning. Although ornament in churches is unnecessary, surely the virtue of cleanliness is particularly so in a place of divine worship, and if the church- wardens will not do their duty, it would not de- grade the clergyman to do it ; I believe in this case he has the power to act thus, Pillar-stones j #V. Pillar-stones occur in but few places; some may be seen on the road between Spansel.hill and Tui- lasrh • 352 STATISTICAL SURVEY lagh : from the rudeness of the workmanship they are probably of very high antiquity. A gentle- man informed me they were rubbing-posts for cattle! — See General Vallancey's Prospectus. At Kilfenora several ancient crosses are to be seen ; one in the church-yard seems to be of great antiquity, as there is no inscription on it; another on the estate of George Lysaght, Esq. is of very light and beautiful workmanship, and probably of a period long after that in the church-yard. Near the church and round tower of Dysert O'Dea, a very curious one lies on the ground ; it represents (it is said) St. Monalagb, who was bishop of this place, and whose figure is represented on it, with his crozier, &c. accompanied by several other figures ; it is without date ; but on the base, that supported it, we are informed, that it was repaired by one of that family in the year 1689. It is remarkable, that the head of the saint is cut on a square piece of flat stone, that can be put in and out at pleasure like the stopper of an oven. The crozier also of this saint is still preserved with great care; it is called the Bougha!, (stick,) and is of curious workmanship; it is held in such ve- neration, that oaths are taken on it with great so- lemnity, and a shilling paid for the use of it to a poor woman, who gives it out to any person, who Cnrio-as ^loiLiixraexit at ISziafoov OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 353 who applies for it, and it travels safely from cabin to cabin. In a field near the church of Kilnaboy, a re- markable cross is fixed in a rock ; tradition says, that two men had a violent quarrel of many years standing, which, by the interference of mutual friends, they agreed to settle here ; they met and "shook hands, and in commemoration of the event a cross was erected on the spot. The appearance of it gives some degree of probability to the story, for there are two faces in relief looking towards each other on the top of the cross, and two hands in the middle like those in the act of shaking hands ; my informant said this happened long before the building of the round tower or the church. (See plate on the opposite side.) It is remarkable how little curiosity there is in the county ; not a single gentleman, even of those, who passed it by fre- quently for forty years, had ever noticed it, though not twenty yards from the road. Sect. 26. Whether the county has been actually surveyed 1 ? This county was surveyed in 1639 by order of the Earl of Strafford, and the map is esteemed to- lerably correct. Some years since an actual sur- vey was made by Mr. Pelham, by order of the 2 z grand 354 STATISTICAL SURVEY grand jury ; from what I have seen, and from the report of the inhabitants of the county, I am in- duced to think it is generally correct ; some tri- fling omissions or inaccuracies may be perceived, but in general it is such as to do credit to Mr. fVlham, especially if the gentlemen of that day •were as little alive to any thing, that would be- nefit their county without exclusively serving thenu selves, as I found those of the present day. The engraver has taken great liberties, and laid a very heavy hand on his graver, when deline- ating the hills; to a stranger the county must appear a dreary mountain, destitute of verdure or cultivation, and of inhabitants. The barony of Bun- ratty for instance, whose gentle hills are either grazed or tilled to the summit, appears almost as gloomy as the eastern part of Tullagh, or Moy- ferta, or Burrin. Many of the names of places are very incorrect, (as I suppose mine are,) not only from an ignoranc'e of the Irish language, and the quick manner the natives pronounce many words, but from the want of correction by the gentlemen of the county, few of whom but would rather laugti at than set one right. Though there is an act of parliament directing, that a map and survey shall be kept constantly hung up in the grand jury room, this useful re- gulation is evaded ', perhaps it would detect jobbing too OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 355 too much, and is therefore suppressed. There is also another act for providing barony maps; if these were on a scale large enough, they ivould be of great use in laying out new roads, but then this would take too much money from the road- jobbing. Sect. 27. Weights and measures, liquid or dry ; in what instances are weights assigned for measures, or vice versa ? Corn is sold by the long barrel, and short barrel ; the short one is, of wheat, twenty stone ; bere and barley, sixteen stone; oats, fourteen stone; rape, sixteen stone, (sometimes the buyer wrangles the farmer out of more,) bran four stone. The long barrel is twice the weight of the short. Though the gentlemen of the county admit the inconve- nience in moving such large sacks as contain the long barrel, yet not the smallest exertion is made to abolish them, and some are even so touchy on the customs of their country, however ridiculous, that they will not allow them to be erroneous, and say a long barrel is better than a short one, &c. &c. In Kihush wheat and oats are sold by the stone of 14 lbs. which would be the best method of selling every article, until we have some regulation to adjust ail weights by decimals. Hides and tallow 2 z 2 are '356 STATISTICAL SURVEY are sold by the stone of 1 6 lbs. Potatoes are usually sold by the bushel, but a previous agreement is made how many stone the bushel shall contain (ridiculous !) ; for in some parts of the county it weighs 6 stone 6 lbs. in others 16, 18, and 20 stone, and the weights even differ in summer and winter ; in summer they give only 16 lbs. to the stone, but in winter allow IS lbs. to make amends for dirt. The barrel differs on either side of Ardsallas river ; on the south side it is six bushels of ten stone each, whilst on the north side eight bushels of ten stone are given, and near Limerick potatoes are sold by the bushel of 8 st. Slbs., and six bushels to the barrel. Wool 16 lbs. to the stone; feathers 16 lbs. to the stone; these are procured mostly by plucking the geese three times every summer, those for fattening excepted. Four-pence is usually paid for the fea- thers of each goose at every time of plucking ; good feathers are usually sold for about a guinea per stone of 16 lbs. Barrel of malt 12 stone; this is perhaps the only thing, that should be sold by measure only ; selling by weight is a premium on bad malt, the worst always weighing most. In some places they have a measure called a skibbet ; it contains two bushels or seven stone of" oats. Great abuses are practised at markets, and at some stores. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 357 stores, in the weighing of corn ; frequently the weights are of stones of various sizes, pieces of iron, or lead, or mutilated weights. In fact the seller does not well know what they weigh, as very few have scales at home, and even, if he had, little notice would be taken by the infallible clerk of the scales. Various allowances must be made for sacks, dirt, &c. &c. &c, and the ipse dixit of the person, who attends the scales, must be a law to the poor farmer; as sacks are of such various weights, the fairest way is to weigh ail the full sacks, and, when they are emptied, throw them all into one scale, and deduct their weight from the gross one. It is generally thought, that two of our barrels are equal to an English quarter, but it is not so, for two of our barrels of wheat weigh 560 lbs., whilst the English quarter weighs but 516 lbs. The yard and the handle differ in many places, according as the rule, by which they measure, varies ; the yard ought to be thirty-six inches, and the handle twenty-seven inches long. In the county of Galway the handle is thirty inches, and in Limerick only twenty-one inches, in some parts of Kilkenny twenty-four inches. It is in the power of magistrates and church-wardens to take up frau- dulent weights and measures, but of what use is a power they have not the honesty to exert? When 358 STATISTICAL SURVEY When they are buying for themselves, they look sharp enough. Very great abuses are practised in the mea- surement of lime ; the statute lime-barrel should contain forty gallons of 217/^ cubic inches or five cubic feet : in many places probably half that measure is not given, particularly at Nutfield. Sect. 28. Morals, manners, and customs of the people. To shew that a deplorable laxity of morals prevails, I need only refer my readers to the section on roads ; they will there see a specimen of those of the higher ranks ; and for a sample of those in the middling and lower ranks I must send them to Ennis on a Sunday morning ; there they will see shops open, goods hanging at the doors for sale, stand- ings in the streets, timber for sale leaning against the sessions- house, in short every appearance of business as there was on the previous market day ; and many neighbouring ladies defer their shopping until that day, after paying their devotions to heaven, totally regardless of the fourth command- ment. Had I not frequently seen magistrates sharing in this monstrous abuse of the sabbath, I could not have thought there was one in the town j it surely OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 359 surely would be a meritorious act of the Lord Chancellor to supersede the abetters of such gross impiety. The children, even infants, in this town are par- ticularly wicked, and the ears (not of the clergy, magistrates, or church-wardens) areconstantly grated by the most shocking and novel cursing and swearing. ; A curious custom prevails in a part of this county; when a beast is slaughtered, the smith claims, and in some instances receives the head of the beast; formerly it was more general, but some have sense enough to refuse such a sacrifice to Vulcan; pro- bably the custom originated in a remuneration for the use of his sledge and his sinewy arm in knock- ing down the beast ; however it may have been introduced, it is or was practised lately in the Western isles, for Dr. Johnson in his Tour, page 183, informs us, that the smith has the head, the piper the udder, (how appropriate !) the weaver and others so many pieces, that a small share falls to the laird. In many places gentlemen are called by the coun- try people by their christian names, without any of those additions, which modern pride expects from inferiors; on the road to Skarriff, I enquired from a poor woman, who lived in a gentleman's house mthin view; she said, "Charley;" pray who is Charley ? S60 STATISTICAL SURVEY Charley ? " Arrah don't you know Charley ? Why you must be a stranger in the country, or you'd know Charley O'Callaghan," meaning Mr. O'Cal- laghan of St. Catharine's. I saw hounds hunting near Spansel-hill on the 19th of August, and all the corn standing! In no part of Ireland is hospitality more prac- tised than in this county. I should be most un- grateful indeed, if I did not feel and acknowledge it ; I wish I could say so much for my mare ; for, whilst I have had every attention "paid to my comfort in the parlour, she poor creature has often after a long journey been obliged to go to bed without her supper of oats : I am totally at a loss to account for this^ which is by no means peculiar to this county ; it may be found in Galway and elsewhere. You will be the more welcome the more wine you drink, yet six-pence worth of oats will be denied to your horse. I would advise no person to travel without a servant, and a sharp fellow too. If your horse is turned to grass at night, in all probability he will be sent to the deer-park, the calf- park, or stone paddock, places proverbi- ally bare ; not one house in ten has either oats or straw in summer, and frequently but little hay. A strange custom prevails in this county, and indeed in most parts of Ireland, (a remnant of feudal times ;) if a poor man has business to transact OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 361 transact with a gentleman, instead of coming up to the door, and sending in a servant with his message, he loiters about the door, and the stables, or frequently waits to catch his honor on the road from his house ; thus losing his time at per- haps a very busy season. Frequently poor people, and sometimes wealthy ones, that come to pay their rent, are treated in this manner. I have often thought, that gentlemen seemed to take a pride in seeing and shewing so many dependants about their doors; if not, why not dispatch them immediately? The men are now scarcely ever barefooted, ex- cept they are working in bogs, or other wet places, and the women not so much as formerly; they usually walk to market barefooted, but, when they come near the town, always wash their feet, put on their shoes and stockings, and adjust their dress like their superiors. Very great use is made of mules and asses, for carrying baskets, and small loads, such as poor people usually load them with: for such persons, as are not able to keep a horse, they are a great convenience. It is astonishing, what a load some of these little animals (asses) will carry, frequently above 24 stone, much more than their own weight; and often a large stone is added to the load, to balance one of the baskets: these kinds of loads 3 a are 362 STATISTICAL SURVEY are called up-loads. Though these kinds of loads are useful to poor people, it is ridiculous to see them so much used by those, who could very well afford to buy a cart, which with a moderate sized horse would very easily draw 128 stone, or 16 cwt. : but the cart must be got from Dub- lin, from the Implement manufactory on the North- wall ; for a cart made in the country, not being constructed on any principle, would not carry half that weight with the same ease to the horse. It is very much the custom to make sacks for corn of a most unwieldy length, and frequently to load their small horses so heavily as to injure and sometimes break their backs; they have the further inconvenience of being difficult to move; none but the strongest men dare attempt it, and even these are often injured in their backs; but all-powerful custom reconciles them to it, and the example of their betters confirms it. The Irish peasantry have often been accused, by their polite and travelled neighbours, and by absentees, of almost every vice incident to human nature. If this even was the case, could it be wondered at for a moment, if the extreme igno- rance, in which they are reared, were considered? The poor people themselves are so sensible of this, that every man, that can possibly spare the mo- ney, gives his children such education, bad as it is, OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 363 is, as he can procure for such a trifle as is usually paid at country schools. Can it be sur- prising, after reading the list of Irish classics, which 1 have before detailed, that they should believe in fairies, hobgoblins, witches, Will o'the wisp, ghbsts, and a multitude of legendary tales, which old women are fond of relating? It is rather astonishing they are so free from vice. Many pagan rites still remain; and the poor ignorant native little thinks, when he is dancing round his bonfire, or dressing his May-bush, that he is using the same ceremonies the worshippers of Baal did. In this county, as elsewhere, it is much the custom to put children to nurse with some healthy cottager; fine ladies don't like either the trouble, or to spoil their shapes; as this unnatural custom does not take place so much in England, it may help to account for the superior prolificacy of our Irish ladies. A great inconvenience attends this custom ; the nurse and indeed her whole family think you are obliged to assist them, whilst they live; in fact there is no shaking them off: they in general endeavour to avoid taking any money as payment for nursing, but they contrive by coJ- lops, (grazing cattle,) wool, corn, potatoes, &c. &c. to get thrice more than a liberal allowance in money would amount to; and indeed many of 3 a 2 the 364 STATISTICAL SURVEY the better kind of people would rather pay three times the amount in this unsatisfactory way, than in cash. It must at the same time be admitted, that the poor man's family generally retain a great affection for the child during life. Wakes, quite different from what are so called in England, still continue to be the' disgrace of the country. As it would be thought a great mark of disrespect not to attend at the house where the corpse lies, every person makes it a point, especially women, to shew themselves; and when they first enter the house, they set up the most hideous but dry-eyed yell, called the Irish cry; i:his, however, lasts but a short time. The night is usually spent in singing, not mournful dirges, but merry songs, and in amusing them- selves with different small plaj's* dancing, drink- ing, and often fighting, &c. Hurling matches or goals I have mentioned before. Chairs are meetings at night in some whiskey-house, where they dance, drink, fight, and frequently settle the politics of the county, &c. These two last kinds of meetings are ruinous to the young people of both sexes: it is nothing uncommon for servants of both sexes to stay out all night; the general custom of leaving outside doors open at night gives great facility to this breach of trust. Jt is by no means unusual for the OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 365 the gentleman of the house to lock himself tip carefully in his bedchamber, and leave the key in both street and back-door; frequently there is no lock to either. Surely they cannot blame young people for taking advantage of so very reprehen- sible a neglect; in many cases, that indolence, which pervades the whole county, is the cause of it. It is the custom of the women of this county, in common with I believe every other in Ireland, to walk at some distance behind their husbands. Paddy, let him be ever so fond of his rib, would think it a mark of disrespect, if she walked by his side. Sect. 29. Concluding Observations, The county of Clare, which is the subject of this work, seems to be distinguished, by one pe- culiar circumstance, from those parts of Ireland, that have hitherto fallen under my observation. That circumstance is, that it contains such an. intermixture of soils, from the deep corcass to the light gravelly substance, as to include a re- gular gradation of soils, fitted to produce all the necessaries, and even luxuries, for j;he various purposes of civilized life. There *J66 STATISTICAL SURVEY There appears to be in this margin, I may call it, of the Atlantis ocean, every species of ground rising in a regular chain of productive fertility from the craggs of Burrin to the fattening pas- tures of Tradree. A traveller, who takes pleasure in contemplating on the wonderful diversity of forms, in which nature delights to indulge, cannot but be struck with the astonishing contrast between the cliff, that frowns over the vale of Glanaragud, where the goat (the chamois of these Irish alps,) can hardly find a scanty blade of grass to browse on, and the banks of the Shannon, the richness of whose quality is such as can scarcely be eaten down by the most numerous herds of oxen, or exhausted by the successive tillage of many years. Although to treat of the manners, customs, or general religion of this county, not being given to me in commission, does not therefore regularly form any part of this work, yet I trust I shall not be censured, if I impart my sentiments on them, as far as my transitory residence in this county enables me to do. Should I not be a^ comprehensive on these topics, as their importance demands, the candour of the reader will consider, that a mere bird of passage can only pick up a few superficial grains of knowledge; but to be par- ticular or accurate can be the result alone of per- manent residence, and of that variety of commu- nications^ OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 361 nications, which, I regret to have to say, were "withheld from me by many of the clergy, who possessed the necessary means. The manners of the inhabitants from the lowest to the highest class are marked by a civility (the few exceptions, that I unfortunately met with, do not "alter my opinion) and readiness to oblige. There is not any considerable disparity of con- dition ; the general run of those, who occupy the rank of gentry, appear to be at no great dis- tance from each other in point of fortune, as a number of the great land proprietors are absentees, spending in Dublin and London the produce of their large rentals, which, if laid out in the county they belong to, would give comfortable bread to the unemployed tradesmen and happiness not felt before. Hospitality, for which this county, as I am in- formed, was always remarkable, still hails the coming guest, but on a more rational and improved prin- ciple than formerly, as deep and excessive drinking ji exploded from all genteel tables ; on the other hand they have not learned from their neighbours to put the cork in the bottle, when they think their guests have had enough. The materials for exercising this social virtue are to be found no where in greater abundance or perfection, or on cheaper terms. The western x ocean, 368 STATISTICAL SURVEY ocean, that flows within fourteen miles of Ennis, the county town, supplies every sort of sea-fish, that is known or desired either as a necessary or a luxury in Great Britain ; every kind of shell- fish is also to be had in great plenty aud per- fection, including the Pouldoody oysters, that for flavour are universally allowed to be superior io any in the world. Salmon, pike, trout, and eels are obtained in great perfection and profusion from the Shannon and several other rivers in this county, and from the numerous lakes, that present them- selves in different directions. Beef, mutton, pork, and poultry are also very cheap, and, except the last, very good. The ve- getable market of Ennis is one of the best I have seen in a country town. The wild fowl of this county, particularly in the barony of Inchiquin, are remarkable for being well fed, and for a high and at the same time a sweet flavour. Formerly this county contained a number of deer-parks, and the venison was esteemed exqui-P^ sitely fine,* as the heathy grass, the hazel copse, and all that wild herbage, that deer love to feed on (and without which they are not as good as mutton,) * Mr. Brady of Raheens still maintains the credit of his venison, -which has been always in high estimation, and he still keeps up his pack of buck-hounds. OF THE COUNTY OF CLARE. 369 mutton,) abounded in many parts; but there are few inclosures kept up for deer now, as the rise on lands has so greatly encreased their value, that what few years ago was allotted for a deer-park, as rough mountainous ground worth little or nothing, if set at this day, fetches a very great rent j consequently venison has become proportionably scarce, few wishing to pay at least half a crown a pound for it, the rate at which I am convinced every person, that feeds on five years old buck, eats it. It is with great pleasure I am now to close these observations with a remark as to the cor- diality, that subsists in this county between the Protestants and the Catholics ; they intermarry ac- cording to their inclination and circumstances, without any impediment from a difference of per- suasion, and live in habits of sincere friendship and good will, free from that bigotry and rancour, that tend to the ruin and disgrace of other parts of Ireland, and which under the pretence of re- ligion violate its pure and benevolent precepts. 3 B APPENDIX. APPENDIX. In the Statistical Survey of the county of Kil- dare, a new method of planting potatoes is men- tioned as having been discovered by the very in- telligent author. He plants whole potatoes in squares at three feet asunder, and uses only about forty cart loads of dung to a plantation acre. The earth is thrown up to. the potatoe stalks as they advance in their growth, as long as any can be found of a good quality, until the hillocks are sometimes upwards of two feet high. By this method a great saving of seed is made, and they can be landed with the plough, or by the cottier's wife and children ; and this is so much more cheaply done than in the usual lazy-bed way, that the expence of producing a barrel of potatoes of twenty stone, according to this improved method, amounts only to about 8d. whilst that of a barrel in the lazy-bed way amounts to 4s. 9d. ; the quantity pro- 3 B duced 2 APPENDIX. duced in the bank method is stated in the Survey, as follows, per acre, " Rednose kidney, " English reds, "Red bottoms (a new ^ species of apple. " Lewis Mansergh, Esq. Athy, (apples) " Mr. Ryder, Bray, (apples) - - 115 N. B. These were neglected to be landed. " C. P. Doyne, Esq. Queen's county, had from n thirty-seven potatoes, occupying a square " perch at four and a half feet apart, fifty 11 stone of potatoes, or per acre, - 400 li Lennon, one of my labourers cultivated half ' : a rood, of which he took much care in land- " ing ; he has upwards of a stone from each u of his banks, English reds, that is per acre, 400 Improved cider, or farmer's wine. " Take new cider from the press, mix it with honey till it bears an egg ; boil it gently for a quarter of an hour, (but not in an iron pot,) take off the scum as it rises, let it cool, then barrel it, with- out filling the vessel quite full ; bottle it off in March. In six weeks afterwards it will be ripe for use, and as APPENDIX. 3 as strong as Madeira. The longer it is kept after- wards, the better." Particular care must be taken, that the cider be of the best kind, and that the honey be perfectly free from wax. In several parts of this wqrk I have endeavoured to impress on the minds of land proprietors the ruinous tendency of setting lands to unimproving middlemen, and of employing agents totally ignorant of country business to transact their affairs. The following extract from the Agricultural Magazine, p. 272, comes so strongly and practically in aid of my reiterated assertions, that I beg leave to in- sert it here. The estate of Rathdangan, in the county of Wick- low, improved by occupying tenants. By the Rev. Arthur Conolly, of Donard near Baltinglass. TO THE EDITOR. " Sir, March 1798. " I send you the scheme proposed for the im- provement of Mrs. Hamilton's estate of Rath- dangan, and add a few lines to explain more par- ticularly its design and success. In April 1806, I was requested by Mrs. Hamilton to take possession of an estate she had in the county of Wicklow, and to assist her in resetting it with my advice. It had 4 APPENDIX. had been set for 31 years to two head-tenants, one of whom had bought the other out long be- fore the expiration of the lease. I went there, and took regular possession, and in doing that beheld, both with regard to the land, houses, and inhabitants, such a scene of desolation, wretched- ness, and misery, as I had before no conception of. Above thirty poor families lived under the head-tenant, who was an unfeeling, overbearing savage, in hovels not fit for swine, in the most squalid poverty. Struck with horror at this affect- ing scene, I ventured to propose to Mrs. Hamil- ton the annexed scheme, which, contrary to the advice of her agent, arid other persons, whom she consulted, (who deemed it visionary and imprac- ticable,) she adopted. At the end of the four years, mentioned in this scheme, she was so pleased with its success, that she continued the premiums, that were then to cease, above two years more. There are now on it thirty-two neat convenient farm-houses, built of lime and stone, and the land is in a very high state of cultiva- tion and improvement, far superior to any thing in that country ; the inhabitants are decent, regu- lar, and content, and no taint whatever of that dangerous spirit, which too generally prevails in this kingdom, (and from which the county of Wicklow is far from being free,) has reached that happy APPENDIX. 5 happy spot. I should add that, besides the pre- miums mentioned, there is one of a guinea-and-a-* half for the best plantation of that useful tree, the sallow ; a guinea for the second best ; and haif-a-guinea for the third: in consequence, most of the houses are half concealed in shade. The estate lies in a very wild country, about thirty miles from Dublin ; to which, for want of a more convenient market, they send that part of the produce of their land, butter and bacon, of which they make their rent. The rents are paid with a punctuality unknown in that country." Arthur Conolli/. fleport of the state of the Farm, llth April, 1799. u Though the estate above-mentioned has been cruelly ravaged and plundered by the insurgents, and much harrassed by the free quarters, that pre- vailed last summer, there is not now due an arrear equal to a seventh part of the year's rent. There is also strong presumptive proof, (such as no houses having been destroyed by the army, nor one of the inhabitants punished, though near (five miles east of) Baltinglass, where a very watchful seye is kept over the people,) the inhabitants re- sident and improving their farms, that this spot, though surrounded by as disturbed districts as any 6 APPENDIX. an} r in the kingdom, continues well affected and peaceable.'* A. C. A scheme proposed for the improvement of the lands of Rathdangan. 10th April, 1786. u Mrs. Hamilton's estate of Rathdangan is moun- tainous, and in a very rude neglected state; in want of buildings, drains, and inclosures; on all these accounts it requires a numerous tenantry, for which it seems well calculated, from its abounding in good fuel, water, and being well situated for a manufacture, particularly the woollen one, the spin- ning branch of which is tolerably well understood. According to my judgment, aided by the best information I could procure, it is in its present state not worth more than ,£250 yearly; nor do I think, that it would set for more than that sum, if so much, to one or two head-tenants; but I am assured, that the present tenants, if assisted for a few years, will pay with comfort what they have proposed, which is ,£317, will thrive, and raise the value of the estate. My scheme for the improve- ment is as follows. Buildings should be the first object; inclosures, which, if made with judgment, will APPENDIX. 7 will serve as drains, the second ; manuring with lime, the third. I would recommend, that Mrs. Hamilton should determine on places for houses of two sorts, proportioned to the different farms. I shall send, should she choose it, plans of such, which I think would answer; that on the tenants drawing the stones, clearing the foundation, and consenting to attend the mason, Mrs. H. should pay for the mason-work and lime, which would come to about six pounds the larger, and four pounds the smaller houses, by contract. I would propose, that six of these houses should be built in each year after the first, which would come to about thirty pounds; at the end of four years this expence would cease, as there would then be a house to nearly every thirty acres of land. I would apply the sum of ten pounds, yearlv, to defray half the expence of inclosures, made in the situation and manner appointed by a person fixed on by Mrs. H. ; this expence I think would also cease in four years. I should also propose ten pounds, yearly, in premiums for liming ; this last expence, I should think, it might be prudent to continue. Thus by being content to receive for four years a sum, which would exceed what any oppressive and rapacious land-jobber could pay, Mrs. H. would raise her rent-roll, considerably improve her estate, 3 c diffuse S APPENDIX. diffuse an air of cultivation and plenty over a bar- ren wild, promote a spirit of decency and order, and make the industrious peasant's heart sing for joy- it is by no means my idea, that Mrs. H. should enter into any engagements relative to her boun- ties; she ought to have them entirely in her own power; and they will operate more powerfully, when she can make a difference between honesty and dishonesty, industry and sloth. Though I should be happy to oblige Mrs. H., the offer I now make her, of taking it on myself to see, that her encouragements are not thrown away, is by no means complimentary, but selfish; my means of doing good are much confined : my avocations will often lead me into that neighbour- hood, and I must be well repaid for any trouble I may have, by riding through a village instead of a waste, and in seeing happiness take place of misery. A. C. Note by the editor. — This plan, so judiciously conceived by Mr. Conolly, and generously sup- ported by Mrs. Hamilton, forms an excellent exam- ple for other proprietors to follow. Each occu- pier being accommodated with as much ground, secured by lease, as he is fully able to manage, is the surest mode of advancing the improvement of APPENDIX. 9 of land, and the prosperity of the tenant, parti- cularly when favoured by the attention and coun- tenance of a benevolent proprietor." J. H. What a treasure would such a benevolent cler- gyman be in the county of* Clare? He would find ample means to bestow his wishes on a numerous part of the tenantry of this county, who are precisely in the same situation,* under that scourge pf Ireland, an unimproving, unfeeling middle-man. JList of rare Plants found in the county of Clare by Dr. Wade, and Mr. Mackay. Sea reed, or sea matweed, Arundo arenaria. On the sandy beach on the sea coast of Burrin mountains. Cattle feed on it in winter; it is used for thatching houses, and will last for upwards of twenty years. Squinancy-wort, or small woodroofT, Asperula cynanchica. Plentiful along the sand hills on the western coast, and very abundant on the limestone rocks near Corrofin, and in other parts of Clare. Least mountain bedstraw, Galium pusillum. Abundant amongst the limestone rocks at Mash- erinraheen, near Corrofin. Spring gentian, Gentiana verna. Plentiful on the estate of Bindon Blood, Esq. at Glaniny, near 3 c 2 the 10 APPENDIX. the bay of Gal way, on a limestone gravelly soil; also near Magherinrabeen, between that and Kil- macduagh church, in the county of Galway. Autumnal gentian, Gentiana amarella. Very plentiful on a limestone soil, between Gort and Corrofin, and in other places in the county of Clare. Broad-leaved water parsnep, Sium latifolium. Plentiful on the side of the river Fergus, a little above the bridge at Ennis; also in ditches, near Corrofin. Creeping water parsnep, Sium repens. In a marsh on the river Fergus, a little above the bridge at Ennis. Flowering rush, Butomus umbellatus. In ditches near d'Esterre's bridge, seven miles from Limerick, on the road to Clare ; and in ditches near Cor- rofin, in great abundance. Red-berried trailing arbutus, Arbutus uva ursi. Plentiful on the limestone mountains in the ba- rony of Burrin, along with Dryas octopetala. Shrubby cinquefoil, Potentilla fruticosa. On low swampy Aground, near the bottom of the Burrin mountains, the estate of Bindon Blood, Esq.; plentiful at Magherinraheen, near Corrofin. The ground it generally grows in is covered in winter with water, that gushes up from beneath, and then gets the name of Turlou^hs. Mountain APPENDIX. ii Mountain avens, Dryas octopetala. This plant covers whole mountains of limestone on the estate of Bindon Blood, Esc}, in the barony of Burrin r where there is scarcely any other vegetable to be seen. It has been observed before in that country. White water-lily, Nymphjca alba. Common in the lake of Inchicjuin, near Corrofin, and many other places. Great spearwort, Ranunculus lingua, In a marsh by the side of the river Fergus, a little above the bridge of Ennis. Nep, or cat mint. Nepeta cataria. On the road side, north of the Shannon, opposite to Lime- rick. Hairy tower mustard, Turritis hirsuta. Plen~ tiful on the rocks at Clifden. Shining crane's-bill, Geranium lucidum. This plant covers many of the thatched houses in the town of Ennis, where it makes a very beautiful appearance. Musk thistle, Carduus nutans. Found sparingly on the north road side, between Gort and Cor- rofin, in August, 1806* Common frog bit, Hydrocharis morsus ran®. In a marsh, by the side of the river Fergus, a little above the bridge of Ennis. Alpine club moss, Lycopodium selagenoides* In 12 APPENDIX. In moist grounds, near Glaniny, bottom of Bur- rin mountains, in great abundance. Marsh aspidium, or polypody, Aspidium the- lypteris. In a marsh, near the river Fergus, a little above the bridge of Ennis. Common spleenwort, Scolopendrium ceterach. On limestone rocks and walls, near Corrofin, and other places in the county of Clare, in great abundance. Stinking iris, or Gladwyn, or roast beef plant, Iris foetid issi ma. Ennis church-yard. Cock's-foot panick grass. A few specimens of this very scarce grass were found by Dr. Wade, on the sand hills of Dough, near Lehinch, Yellow loose strife, Lysimachia vulgaris. Upon the east bank of a lough, adjoining the lands of Drumkevan, near Ennis. Great burnet saxifrage, Pimpinella magna. About the high road, Rosstrevor, Co. Clare. Red whortle-berry, or crow-berry, Vaccinium vitis Idpea. The rocky mountains of the county of Clare are covered with this very delicate ever- green. Orpine, or live long, Sedum telephium. Covers the walls of an old fort, called Cahiromond, near Ki I fen or a. Pennyroyal, Mentha pulegium. The church- yard of Ennis furnishes it in tolerable quantity. Wood APPENDIX. 13 Wood betony, Betonica officinalis. In the wood, by the river side, at Corronanagh. Daisy-leaved ladyVsmock, Cardamine bellidifolia. This was found on the rocks about Finto. Sea stock, Cheiranthus sinuatus. This fine scarce plant was found, at high-water mark, about the sand hills of Dough, but sparingly, flowering the latter end of August. Marsh-mallow, Althaea officinalis. In prodigious plenty in all the salt marshes about the rivers Shannon and Fergus. Mountain cudweed, Gnaphalium dioicum. Abun- dant on the Burrin mountains. Yellow mountain pansy, Viola lutea. On the sand hills of Dough and Ballinguddy. Lizard satyrium, or orchis, Satyrium hircinum. This very rare and tall orchis is to be met with in very shady situations, among shrubs, producing abundant flowers in the beginning of August, in the barony of Tullagh. The flowers are said to smell like a goat; hence, I suppose, the trivial name. v i n i a M997 X ■> s>- *? ** f. z A ..\\ V ' V J* * s - <*V ^ ^ ./• -V %. ^ ^ % ,0 /. ' H I \ ^^ ••^. 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