"-<^ -MMi'^ >^ V^.tt:^^/ ..,%;- .^^"'i: *^ "^^ r'/v^V; "^^ ^■ "^AO^ ■%/' V 'Zi '^^^ S ^ ^y^\^ ^^". % rO^ '■^. .v^ ^-..^^ ^^^^ ^ -If' * -ClJ' - rO ^^C' ■%,# cS ^. 'f r'?..5' , 'r. V ■^Ad< ''/ .- s^ .^^ '^ f-'' '^-1 *. 1 '^/'tC'N' #'' 9?.'^' ivi£^':z %n<^^ :/yfiV= '^^ <7. ''/ f-vw .N^ . ^-^ ''t % %..^'^^^ ^^e:^' ^d^ •X„.xv^' - V ,. ^ " ^ -%> i:^ Q^ ' >^ f=? ^ <^ "^^ ' %.^^ >^^. Ho. N V . „ "-;^. < jr „ X . - ^ \> .!- ^ ° " / ^^. aO^ 5> % %%:^.^ J / (, * s ^ ^ V '^ % V .-■ .<.K .^ ^. ^^-^^^^^..„ ^.^--^.v^ ^0^^ h.^' -3 ^^ ^ \# n n » ^ S o ft* > 8 ^ M " • g. (a TJ "^ a o 3- » jn a T O KLONDYKE FACTS BEING A COMPLETE GUIDE BOOK TO THE GOLD REGIONS OF THE GREAT CANADIAN NORTHWEST TERRITORIES AND ALASKA BY JOSEPH LADUE AUTHOR OF " KLONDYKE NUGGETS," AND FOUNDER OF DAWSON CITY, N.W.T, ^ 'Vj^W NEW YORK AMERICAN TECHNICAL BOOK CO., 45 Vesey Street. V Copyright, 1897, By AMERICAN TECHNICAL BOOK CO. All Rizhts Reserved No extracts can be made without the permission of the Publishers/ 0-. ^>- / K^^ if PUBLISHER\S NOTE. The intense excitement ciiused by the marvellous discov- eries of gold in Alaska and the great Canadian Northwest makes it necessary that authentic facts regarding this region should be supplied to the reading public. It is with pleasure that Ave introduce Mr. Joseph Ladue, the pioneer prospector and founder of Dawson City, N. ^■y. T., the central point of the gold region, as the author • f this valuable work of reliable information. There is probably no man living who is better posted on Alaska and the great Northwest than Mr. Joseph Ladue. He has just returned from that country to his old home in Schuyler Falls, N. Y., where he passed a large portion of his boyhood and early nuinhood. Mr. Ladue left his home nearly twenty years ago to seek his fortune in the "West, going first to the Black Hills, where he was successful in gold mining, thence to Arizona and the Pacific Coast, and finally located in Alaska and the Northwest Territories, where he has been since 1883. Mr. Ladue is a typical pioneer, strong, hardy and resolute, a man of iron, as one must needs be to go through the hardships he has and come out with a constitution unbroken and unimpaired at the age of about forty-three. Mr. Ladue has not only worked his muscles to good advantage to himself with the result of an abundance of this world's goods, but he has evidently all this time been closely observing the conditions of that strange country, the Yukon Valley, which has so suddenly become one of the great centres upon which human interest throughout the world is focussed. 3 4 PUBLISHER'S NOTE. When the wonderful stories began to come down from the Yukon country it was naturally concluded that it was at least half exaggeration. That any such amount of gold could be taken in so short a time from a country like that under the most unfavorable conditions was held to be incredible. But when the great bags of virgin gold began to be poured out upon the mint counters in San Francisco under the eyes of the whole world (for modern journalism does this annihilating of time and space) people began to wonder, and the wonder grew day by day as the real facts were disclosed ; and now people who are well informed as to the facts declare that half the truth has not been told of the golden treasures of the Yukon Yalley. As we have already said, there is probably no man to-day alive Avho knows more about this wonderful country than does Mr. Ladue. What makes his talk of it specially interesting and reliable is the fact that his knowledge of it is practical. It has not been gained from hearsay nor from desultory visits made now and then at certain favorable seasons of the year, but from steady living there through the long summer days and the long winter nights, year in and year out, for fifteen years, where he now owns thirteen of the best mining claims on the Klondyke and 173 acres of land at Dawson City. In presenting this work to the })ul-)lic we do so knowing that it is by an authority on the subject of which he writes. THE rUBLISIlEES THIS MAP SUOWfe TUE STREAM ON \^HICH THE TLACEK CLAIMS /RE LOCATED CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE Publishers' Note 3 Introduction 7 I. Historical and GeograiAieal 9 II. Routes, Distances and Transportation 21 III. Advices to Beginners 86 IV. Outfit for Miners 89 V. How to stake out a Mining Claim 93 VI. Placer Mining 95 VII. Mining Law and Order 101 VIII. Mining Returns 107 IX. Game, Agriculture and Timber 110 X. Mortality and Climate 120 XI, Cost of Living and Wages Paid 125 XII. Miners' Luck 127 XIII. Klondyke Facts 150 Appendix. Excerpts from thelMiningLawsof the Canadian Northwest Territory 191 INTRODUCTION. Much has appeared in the newspapers of the world re- garding the newly discovered gold-fields of Alaska and the great Canadian Northwest. To one who has prospected and lived in these territories for the past fifteen years, it is deplorable that so much un- reliable information has appeared. My object is not to induce any one to go to that remote country at the j^resent time ; until better means of com- munication are established, a man undertakes serious risks in going there unless he has sufficient resources to tide over the long winter. After September, egress from the country is practically impossible until the following June, and a person who has not been successful in locating a pay- ing claim has to depend for his subsistence upon finding employment. Wages are at times abnormally high, but the labor market is very narrow and easily overstocked. It is estimated that up to the middle of May 1,500 to IjCOO people had crossed the Taiya Pass this year. Whether em- ployment Avill be available for all and for the considerable population already in the district is somewhat doul)tful ; it will therefore be wise for those who contemplate going to the Yukon District to give serious consideration to the matter before coming to a decision. Having recently returned for a short time to my old home I find myself deluged with letters from all classes of men eagerly seeking facts relative to the new gold region. As it is impossible to reply to all these letters in a manner 8 INTBOBUCTION. that would be adequate and complete, I have decided to publish some of my observations and experiences in the land that is yet comparatively unexplored. I will give the actual facts and such information as I think will be valu- able to the intending prospectors of the new gold regions. JOSEPH LADUE. KLONDYKE FACTS. CHAPTER I. HISTORICAL AXD GEOGRAPHICAL. The discovery of tlie great Yukon River and tlie territory drained by it is due to the Hudson Bay Company and the adventurous officers wlio directed its interests in British North America. Indeed, the discovery of the Yukon it- self is due to Robert Campbell, an employe of the company, who named it the Pelley River in honor of Sir H. Pelley, a governor of the company. In 18G7 Frank E. Ketchum, of St. John, N. B., and Michael Labarge of Montreal, explorers in the emjjloy of the Western Union Telegraph Company, ascended the Yu- kon from Fort Yukon to the mouth of the Lewes, return- ing down the river, and in the same year Michael Byrnes, in the same employ, made a trip from the direction of the Stikine and reached the Hootolinqua, not the river subse- quently so called by the miners, but that on the survey map of Canada. Mr. Whymper in 18G9, in his work. '^Travels iu Alaska and on the Yukon," makes the first distinct men- tion in print of the discovery of gold. The report of Campbell to the Hudson Bay Company directors was made orally. Mr. Whymper in his book says : " It is worthy 10 KLONBYKE FACTS. of mention that minute specks of gold have been found by some of the Hudson Bay Company's men in the Yukon, but not in quantities to warrant a **rush " to the locality/' George Holt, who afterward was murdered by Indians at Cook's Inlet, was the first white man who crossed from the coast to the headwaters of the Lewes, with no purpose other than prospecting the country. The date is variously set from 1872 to 1878, but the preponderance of testimony makes the latter date the more probable one. He was accompanied by two Indians and crossed by the Chilkoot Pass. On his return he reported the discovery of "^ coarse gold." His trip was authenticated by inquiry among miners who had followed the routes he told them of. The Yukon district is not the entirely wild, savage, un- known land which romancists have been painting it. Gold, in paying quantities has been found there for over a decade. In 1887 a hundred and fifty hardy miners, making no secret of the wealth of the drift they washed, amassed fortunes there. The Yukon District has been growing, as access to the country became more easy and the output has been the greater only because the placer diggings have been extend- ed and have been worked by more hands. Add to the present comparative facility of reaching there the general diffusion of knowledge of the wealth of the mineral through the newsi^apers and the consequent interest ex- cited, and you have explained the difference between the excitement of 1897 and the languor of 1887. And yet, in 1887, Dr. George M. Dawson, the chief of an exjjloring party sent by the Canadian Government into the Yukon district made a report confirming in the fullest the pres- ence of gold in great quantities. Dawson, City, N. W. T,, the principal mining camp in the Klondyke region, was named in his honor. Possibly the conjecture, accej^ted as a fact, that this ELONDYKE FACTS. U land, in the language of a late Canadian cabinet minister, was " the home of the bear and the wolf, and fit only to be the home of such," had something to do with the indiffer- ence. With the Yukon, snow that was practically perpet- ual, and great mountains of ice seemed indissolubly con- nected. It was taken for granted that it was a land not lit to live in and that stories from it had to be accepted with great allowance for the extravagance of language in which men who lived in Arctic lands are likely to indulge Avhen they reach territory, where the sun gives warmth, for warmth is conducive to garrulity and exuberance of thought. In 1859 negotiations were commenced between Russia and the United States with the view of the United States purchasing Russian America, or Alaska, a territory of over five hundred thousand square miles. In March, 18G7, Secretary Seward made an offer of 17,200,000, on condition that the cession be " free and un- encumbered by any reservations, privileges, franchises, grants or possessions, by associated or unassociated com- panies whether corporated or unincorporated, Russian or any other." In May the treaty was ratified, and on the 20th of July 1867 the usual proclamation was issued by the President of the United States, On the 18th of October, 18G7, the formal transfer of Alaska was made at Sitka to General Rousseau representa- tive of the United States. The treaty between Russia and the United States, estab- lishes the eastern and southern boundary lines as arranged hy Russia and (ireat Britain in 1825. The western line in- cludes the whole of the Aleutian Islands. Attou is dis- tinctly named as the most westerly island ceded. The northern boundary is only limited by the ice and snow of the Arctic. 12 ELONDYEE FACTS. THE TUKON RIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. " What the Amazon is to South America, the Mississippi to the central portion of the United States, the Yukon is to Alaska. It is a great inland highway, which will make it possible for the explorer to j^enetrate the mysterious fast- nesses of that still unknown region. The Yukon has its source in the Rocky Mountains of British Columbia and the Coast Range Mountains in southeastern Alaska, about 125 miles from the city of Juneau, which is the present metropolis of Alaska. But it is only known as the Yukon River at the point where the Pelly River, the branch that heads in British Columbia, meets with the Lewes River, which heads in southeastern Alaska. This point of con- fluence is at Fort Selkirk, in the Northwest Territory, about 125 miles southeast of the Klondyke. The Yukon proper is 2,044 miles in length. From Fort Selkirk it flows northwest 400 miles, just touching the Arctic circle ; ^lience southward for a distance of 1,600 miles, where it empties into Behring Sea. It drains more than 000,000 square miles of territory, and discharges one-third more water into Behring Sea than does the Mississippi into the Gulf of Mexico. At its moutli it is sixty miles wide. About 1,500 miles inland it widens out from one to ten miles. A thousand islands send the channel in as many different directions. Only natives who are thoroughly familiar with tlie river are entrusted with the piloting of boats up the stream during the season of low water. Even at the season of high water it is still so shallow as not to be navigable anywhere by seagoing vessels, but only by flat- bottomed boats with a carrying capacity of four to five hundred tons. The draft of steamers on the Yukon should not exceed three and a half feet. KLONDYKE FACTS. 13 ^'The Yukon district, which is within the jurisdiction of the Canadian Government and in which tlie bulk of the gold has been found, has a total area, approximately, of 192,000 square miles, of whicli 150, 7G8 square miles are included in the watershed of the Yukon. Illustrating this, so that it may appeal with definiteness to the reader, it may be said that tliis territory is greater by 71,100 square miles than the area of Great Britain, and is nearly three times that of all the New England States combined. "A further fact must be borne in mind. The Yukon Eiver is absolutely closed to navigation during the winter months. In the winter the frost-king asserts his dominion and locks up all approaches with impenetrable ice, and the summer is of the briefest. It endures only for twelve to fourteen weeks, from about the first of June to the middle of September. Then an unend- ing panorama of extraordinary picturesqueness is unfolded to the voyager. The banks are fringed with flowers, carpeted with the all-pervading moss or tundra. Birds countless in numbers and of infinite variety in plumage, sing out a welcome from every treetop. Pitch your tent where you will in midsummer, a bed of roses, a clump of poppies and a bunch of bluebells will adorn your camping. But high above this paradise of almost tropical exuberance giant glaciers sleep in the summit of the mountain wall, Avhich rises up from a bed of roses. By September every- thing is changed. The bed of roses has disappeared be- fore the icy breath of the winter king, which sends the thermometer down sometimes to seventy degrees below freezing point. The birds fly to the southland and the bear to his sleeping chamber in the mountains. Every stream becomes a sheet of ice, mountain and valley alike are covered with snow till the following May. '• That part of the basin of the Yukon in which gold in gi-eater or less quantities has actually been found lies partly 14 KLONDYKE FACTS. in Alaska and partly in British territory. It covers an area of some 50,000 square miles. But so far the infinitely richest spot lies some one hundred miles east of the American boundary, in the region drained by the Klondyke and its tributaries. This is some three hundred miles by river from Circle City. " "VVe have described some of the beauties of the Yukon basin in the summer season, but this radiant picture has its obverse side. " Horseflies, gnats and mosquitoes add to the joys of liv- ing throughout the entire length of the Yukon valley. The horsefly is larger and more poignantly assertive than the insect which we know by that name. In dressing or undressing, it has a pleasant habit of detecting any bare spot in the body and biting out a piece of flesh, leaving a Avound which a few days later looks like an incipient boil. Schwatka reports that one of his party, so bitten was com- pletely disabled for a week. ' At the moment of infliction.' he adds, ' it was hard to believe that one was not disabled for life.' " The mosquitoes according to the same authority are equally distressing. They are especially fond of cattle, but without any reciprocity of affection. ' According to the general terms of the survival of the flttest and the growth of muscles most used to the detriment of others,' says the lieutenant in an unusual burst of humor, ''a band of cattle inhabiting this district, in the far future, would be all tail and no body, unless the mosquitoes should ex^ierience a change of numbers.' " I am indebted to Wm. Ogilvie, Esq., for the following valuable information relative to The Yukon District. *' Tlie Yukon District comprises, speaking generally, tliat part of the Northwest Territories lying west of the water shed of the Mackenzie River ; most of it is drained by the Yukon River and its tributaries. It covers a distance KLONBYKE FACTS. 15 of about 650 miles along the river from the coast range of mountains. " In 1848 Campbell established Fort Selkirk at the conflu- ence of the Pelly and Lewes Rivers ; it was plundered and destro3'ed in 1852 by the Coast Indians, and only the ruins nov,' exist of what was at one time the most important post of the Hudson's Bay Company to the west of the Rocky Mountains in the far north. In 1809 the Hudson's Bay Company's oflicer was expelled from Fort Yukon by the United States Government, they liaving ascertained by as- tronomical observations that the post was not located in British territory. The officer thereupon ascended the Porcupine to a point which was supposed to be within British jurisdiction, where he established Rampart House ; but in 1800 Mr. J. II. Turner of the United [States Coast Survey found it to be 20 miles within the lines of the United States. Consequently in 1801 the post was moved 20 miles further up the river to be Avithin British territor3\ " The next people to enter the country for trading pur- poses were Messrs. Harper and McQuestion. They have been trading in the country since 1873 aiul have occupied numerous posts all .dong the river, the greater number of which have been abandoned. ]\Ir. IL.irpcr is now located as a trader at Fort Selkirk, with ^Ir. Joseph Laduc under the firm name of Harper & Ladue, ;'.nd }.Ir. McQuestion is in the employ of the Alaska Commercial Company at Circle City, which is tlie distributing point for the vast regions surrounding Birch Creek, Alaska. In 1883 a number of miners entered the Yukon country by the Taiya Pass ; it is still the only route used to any extent by the miners, and is shorter than the other passes though not the lowest. In 1883 Lieutenant Schwatka crossed this same pass and descended the Lewes and Yukon Rivers to the ocean. ''The explorers found that in proximity to the boundary 16 KLONDYKE FACTS. line there existed extensive and valuable placer gold mines, in Avhicli even then as many as three hundred miners were at work. Mr. Ogilvie determined, by a series of lunar observations, the point at which the Yukon River is in- tersected by the 141st meridian, and marked the same on the ground. He also determined and marked the point at which the western affluent of the Yukon, known as Forty Mile Creek, is crossed by the same meridian line, that point being situated at a distance of about twenty-three miles from the mouth of the creek. This survey proved that the place which had been selected as the most con- venient, owing to the physical conformation of the region, from which to distribute the supplies imjaorted for the various mining camps, and from which to conduct the other business incident to the mining operations — a place situate at the confluence of the Forty Mile Creek and the Yukon, and to which the name of Fort Cudahy has been given — is well within Canadian territory. The greater proportion of the mines then being worked Mr. Ogilvie found to be on the Canadian side of the international boundary line, but he reported the existence of some min- ing fields to the south, the exact position of which with respect to the boundary he did not have the opportunity to fix. " The number of persons engaged in mining in the locality mentioned has steadily increased year by year since the date of Mr. Ogilvie's survey, and it is estimated that at the commencement of the j^ast season not less than one thousand men were so employed. Incident to this mineral development there must follow a corresjoonding growth in the volume of business of all descrijitions, particularly the importation of dutiable goods, and the occupation of tracts of the public lands for mining purposes which according to the mining regulations are subject to the payment of certain prescribed dues and charges. The Alaska Com- KLONDTKE FACTS. 17 mercial Company, for many years subsequent to the retire- ment of the Hudson's Bay Company, had a practical monopoly of tlio trade of the Yukon, carrying into the country and delivering ?;t various points along the river, without regard to the international boundary line or the customs laws and regulations of Canada, such articles of commerce as were required for the prosecution of the fur trade and latterly of placer mining, these being the only two existing industries. With the discovery of gold, how- ever, came the organization of a competing company known as the North American Transportation and Trading Com- pany, having its headquarters in Chicago and its chief trading and distributing post at Cudahy. This company has been engaged in this trade for over three years, and during the past season despatched two ocean steamers from San Francisco to St. Michael, at the mouth of the Yukon, the merchandise from which was, at the last men- tioned point, transhipped into river steamers and carried to points inland, but chiefly to the comjiany's distributing centre within Canadian territory. Imj)ortations of con- siderable value, consisting of the immediately requisite supplies of the miners, and their tools, also reach the Canadian portion of the Yukon District from Juneau, in the United States, byway of the Taiya Inlet, the mountain passes, and the chain of waterways leading therefrom to Cudahy. Upon none of these importations had any duty been collected, except a sum of 13,248.80 paid to Inspector Constantine in 1894, by the North American Transj)orta- tion and Trading Company and others, and it is safe to conclude, especially when it is remembered that the coun- try produces none of the articles consumed within it ex- cept fresh meat, that a large revenue was being lost to the public exchequer under the then existing conditions. " For the purpose of ascertaining officially and author- itatively the condition of affairs to which the correspond- 18 KLONDYKE FACTS. ence referred to in tlie next preceding paragraph relates, the Honorable the President of the Privy Council, dur- ing the spring of 1894, despatched Inspector Charles Con- stantine, of the Northwest Mounted Police Force, accom- panied by Sergeant Brown, to Fort Cudahy and the mining camps in its vicinity. The report made by Mr. Constantino on his return, established the substantial accuracy of the representations already referred to. The value of the total output of gold for the season of 1894 he estimated at 1300,000. " The facts recited clearly establish — first, that the time had arrived when it became the duty of the Government of Canada to make more efficient j^rovision for the main- tenance of order, the enforcement of the laws, and the administration of justice in the Yukon country, especially in that section of it in which placer mining for gold is be- ing prosecuted upon such an extensive scale, situated near to the boundary separating the NortliAvest Territories from the possessions of the United States in Alaska ; and, second, that while such measures as Avere necessary to that end were called for in the interests of humanity, and par- ticularly for the security and safety of the lives and property of the Canadian subjects of Her Majesty resident in that country who are engaged in legitimate business pursuits, it was evident that the revenue justly due to the Govern- ment of Canada, under its customs, excise and land laws, and which would go a long way to pay the expenses of government, w^as being lost for the want of adequate machinery for its collection. " Accordingly in June last a detachment * of twenty members of the Mounted Police Force including officers *The detachment was made uji as follows : — Inspector C. Con- stantine, Officer Commanding Yukon Detacliment N. W. M. Police ; Inspector, D. A. E, Strickland ; Assistant Surgeon, A. E. Wills ; 2 Staff Sergeants ; 3 Corporals ; 13 Constables. ELONBTKE FACTS. 19 was detailed for service in that portion of the Northwest Territories. The officer in command, in addition to the magisterial and other duties he is required to perform hy virtue of his office and under instructions from the Depart- ment of Mounted Police, was duly authorized to represent where necessary, and until other arrangements can be made, all the departments of the government haviug in- terests in that region. Particularly he is authorized to perform the duties of Dominion lands agent, collector of customs, and collector of inland revenue. At the same time instructions were given Mr. William Ogilvie, the sur- veyor referred to as having, with Dr. Dawson, been en- trusted with the conduct of the first government exjiedi- tion to the Yukon, to proceed again to that district for the purpose of continuing and extending the work of deter- mining the 14:1st meridian, of laying out building lots and mining claims, and generally of performing such duties as may be entrusted to him from time to time. Mr. Ogilvie's qualifications as a surveyor, and his previous experience as explorer of this section of the Northwest, peculiarly fit him for the task. "As it appears quite certain, from the report made by Mr. Ogilvie on his return to Ottawa, in 1889, and from the report of iVIr. Constantino, that the operations of the miners are being conducted upon streams which have their sources in the United States Territory of Alaska, and flow into Canada on their way to Join the Yukon, and as doubt- less some of the placer diggings under development are situated on the United States side of the boundary it is highly desirable, both for the purpose of settling definitely to which country any land occupied for mining or other purposes actually belongs, and in order that the jurisdic- tion of the courts and officers of the United States and Canada, for both civil and criminal purposes, may be estab- lished, that the determination of the 141st meridian west 20 KL OND YKE FA CTS. of Greenwich from the point of its intersection with the Yukon, as marked by Mr. Ogilvie in 1887-88, for a con- siderable distance south of the river, and possibly also for some distance to the north, should be proceeded with at once. Mr. Ogilvie's instructions require him to go on with the survey with all convenient speed, but in order that this work may be effective for the accomplishment of the object in view the co-operation of the Government of the United States is necessary. Correspondence is in progress through the proper authorities with a view to obtaining this co- operation. It may be mentioned that a United States surveyor has also determined the points at which the Yukon Eiver and Forty Mile Creek are intersected by the 14st meridian." KLONDYKE FACTS. 21 CHAPTER II. ROUTES, DISTANCES, AXD TRAXSPORTATIOX. After considerable experience I have decided tliat tlie best route for a man to take to the gold regions is from Seattle, "Washington, to Juneau, Alaska, and then to Daw- son City, by the pass and waterways, and I will therefore describe this route more in detail than any of the others. I am devoting a special chapter to the outfit for travellers, and will therefore deal in this chapter with the route only. The traveller having paid his fare to Seattle should on arrival there have not less than ^500. This is the minimum sum necessary to pay his fare from Seattle to Juneau, purchase his outfit and supplies for one year and pay his necessary expenses in the gold region for that length of time. I think it deplorable that so many are starting at this time for the gold-fields. I do not recommend starting before March 15. I will return at that time to ray claims on the Klondyke, if it Avere wise to go sooner, I should certainly go- The reason March 15 is best is that the season is better then. If a man has only, say, $500 and wants to do his own packing over the Taiya Pass, it gives him time to do it by starting March 15, as he will then be in Juneau April 1st. I fear a great deal of hardship for those who started out so as to reach Juneau for winter travel. Of course while I say 1500 is sufficient to go to Daw- son City, a man should take $1,000 or even more if pes- 22 KLONDTKE FACTS. sible as he will have many opportunities to invest the surplus. While prices will undoubtedly advance at Dawson City owing to the large influx of people, I do not think the ad- vance will be excessive. It has never been the policy of the two trading companies to take advantage of the miners. The traveller having arrived in Juneau from Seattle, a journey of 725 miles by water, immediately purchases his complete outfit as described in another chapter. He then loses no time in leaving Juneau for Dyea, taking a small steamboat which runs regularly to this port via the Lynn Canal. Dyea has recently been made a customs port of entry and the head of navigation this side of the Taiya Pass. The distance between Juneau and Dyea is about one hundred miles. From Dyea, which is the timber-line, he packs his outfit to the foot of the Taiya Pass — the length of which to the summit is about 15 miles. He must now carry his outfit up the Pass, which he generally does in two or more trips according to the weight of his outfit, unless he is able hire Indians or mules ; but so far there are very few to Indians to be hired and still fewer mules. He now starts for Lake Lindoman from the head of the Pass, a distance of eight miles — the distance from Dyea to Lake Lindeman being 31 miles. At Lake Lindeman he commences to make his boat, for which he has bronglit the proper supplies in his outfit, with the exception of the timber, which he finds at Lake Lindeman. Ho spends one Avcek at Lake Lindeman mak- ing his boat and getting ready for the long trip down the waterways to Dawson City, the heart of the Klondyke re- gion. The trip through Lake Lindeman is short, the lake being only five miles long. At the foot of the lake he must portage to Lake Bennet, the portage however be- ing very short, less than a mile. \ ^ THE ASCKNT OF TAITA PASS KLONBTKE FACTS. 23 Lake Bennet is 28 miles long, while going tlirovigli this lake the traveller crosses the boundary between British Columbia and the Xorthwest Territory. After going down Lake Bennet the traveller comes to Caribou Crossing — about four miles long, which takes him to Lake Tagish, twenty miles in length. After leaving Tagisli he finds himself in Mud or Marsh Lake, 24 miles long, then into the Lynx River, on which he continues for 27 miles till he comes to Miles Canyon, five-eighths of a mile long. Lnmediately on leaving Miles Canyon he has three miles of what is called bad river work, which, while not hazard- ous, is dangerous from the swift current aiul from being very rocky. Great care has to be taken in going down this part of the river. He uoAV finds himself in "White Horse Canyon the rapids of which are three-eighths of a mile in length and one of the most dangerous places oh the trip, a man is here guarded by a sign, "Keej) a good lookout." No stranger or novice should try to run the White Horse Rapids alone in a boat. He should let his boat drop down the river guided by a rope with which he has iirovided himself in his outfit and which should be 150 feet long. It would be better if the traveller should portage here, the miners having constructed a portage road on the Avest side and put down roller-ways in some places on which they roll their boats over. They have also made some wind- lasses with which they haul their boat up the hill till they are at the foot of the canyon. The White Horse Canyon is very rocky and dangerous aiul the current extremely swift. After leaving the White Horse Canyon he goes down the river to the head of Lake Labarge, a distance of 14 miles. He can sit down and steer with the current, as he is going down the stream all the way. It is for this reason that in 24 KLONDYKE FACTS. returning from the diggings he should take another route, of wliich lie will get full particulars before leaving Dawson ; therefore I do not take the time to give a full description of the return trip via the Yukon to St. Michael. He now goes through Lake Labarge — for 31 miles — till he strikes the Lewes Eiver, this taking him down to Hootalinqua. He is now in the Lewes Eiver which takes him for 25 miles to Big Salmon Eiver and from Big Salmon Eiver 45 miles to Little Salmon Eiver — the current all this time taking him down at the rate of five miles an hour. Of course in the canyons it is very much swifter. The Little Salmon Eiver takes him to Five Finger Eapids, a distance of one hundred and twenty miles. In the Five Finger Eapids the voyage should be made on the right side of the river, going with the current. These rapids are considered safe by careful management, but the novice will already have had sufficient experience in guid- ing his boat before reaching them. From Five Finger Eapids the traveller goes six miles below, down the Lewes, to the Eink Eaj)ids. On going through the Eink Eapids, he continues on the Lewes Eiver to Fort Selkirk, the trading post of Harper and Ladue, where the Pelly and Lewes, at their junction, form the headwaters of the Yukon. You are now at the head of the Yukon Eiver, and the worst j^art of your trip is over. You now commence to go down the Yukon, and after a trip of ninety-eight miles, you are in the White Eiver. You keep on the White Eiver for ten miles, to the Stewart Eiver, and then twenty-five miles to Fort Ogilvie. Yon are now only forty miles from Dawson City. Your journey is now almost ended. After a forty-mile trip on the Yukon, you arrive at Dawson City, where the Klondyke empties in the Yukon. All through this trip you have been going through a mountainous country, the trees there being pine, a small KLONDYKE FACTS. 25 amount of spruce, cottonwood and bircli. You have not seen much game, if any, as it is growing scarce along tliat line of river, and very hard to find. The traveller had therefore better make prej)aration to depend on the pro- visions he has brought with him. If he has stopped to fish, he may have been successful in catching whitefish, grayling and lake trout, along the lakes and rivers. The total Journey from Seattle to Dawson City luis taken about two months. In connection with this trip from Juneau to Dawson City, it is perhaps better to give the reader the benefit of the trip of ISlv. William Stewart, who Avrites from Lake Lindeman, May 31st, 1897, as fol- lows : — " We arrived here at the south end of the lake last night by boat. We have had an awful time of it. The Taiya Pass is not a pass at all, but a climb right over the moun- tains. We left Juneau on Thursday, the twentieth, on a little boat smaller than the ferry at Ottawa. There were over sixty aboard, all in one room about ten by fourteen. There was baggage piled up in one end so that the floor- space was only about eight by eight. We went aboard about three o'clock in the afternoon and went ashore at Dyea at seven o'clock Friday night. We got the Indians to pack all our stuff up to the summit, but about fifty pounds each ; I had forty-eight pounds and my gun. " We left Dyea, an Indian village, Sunday, but only got up the river one mile. We towed all the stuff up the river seven miles, and then packed it to Sheep Camp. We reached Sheep Camp about seven o'clock at night, on the Queen's Birthday. A beautiful time we had, I can tell you, climbing hills with fifty pounds on our backs. It would not be so bad if Ave could strap it on rightly. "AVe left Sheep Camp next morning at four o'clock, and reached the summit at half-past seven. It Avas an aAvful climb — an angle of about fifty-five degrees. AVe 26 KLONBYKE FACTS. could kcci^ our lumds touching the trtiil all the way up. It was blowing and snowing up there. We paid off the Indians, and got some sleighs and sleighed the stuff down the hill. This hill goes down pretty swif t^, and then drops at an angle of fifty-five degrees for about forty feet, and we had to rough-lock our sleighs and let them go. There was an awful fog, and we could not see where we were going. Some fellows helped us down with the first load, or there would have been nothing left of us. When we lot a sleigh go from the top it jumps about fifty feet clear, and comes down in pieces. AVe loaded up the sleighs with some of our stuff, about tv.o hundred and twenty-five pounds each, and started across the lakes. The trail was awful, and we v/aded through water and slush two and three feet deep. We got to the mouth of the canyon at about eight o'clock at night, done out. We left there that night, and pushed on again until morning. We got to the bottom of an av.-ful hill, and packed all our stuff from tliere to the hill above the lake. We had about two and a half miles over hills, in snow and slusli. I carried about five hundred 2)ounds over that part of the trail. We had to get dogs to bring the stuff down from the summit to the head of the canyon. We worked two days bringing the stuff over from the canyon to the hill above the lake. Saturday we worked all day packing down the hill to the lake, and came here on a scow. We were out yesterday morning cutting down trees to build a boat. The timber is small, and I don't think we can get more than four-inch stuff. It rained all afternoon, and we couldn't do anything. There are about fifty boats of all sorts on Lake Bennet, which is about half a mile from here. I have long rubber boots up to the hips, and I did not have them on coming from the summit down, but I have worn them ever since. We met Barwell and Lewis, of Ottawa, to-day. They ELONDYKE FACTS. 27 were out looking for knees for their boats. They left Ottawa six weeks ago, and have not got any farther than we have. There was a little saw-mill going here, and they have their lumber sawn. We have it that warm some days here that you would fairly roast, and the next day you would be looking for your overcoat. Everybody here seems to be taking in enough food to do them a couple of years. AVe are now in Canadian territory, after we passed the summit. I will have to catch somebody going through to Dyea to give him this letter, but I don't know how long before I can get any one going through. This is the last you will hear from me until I get down to the Klon- dyke." Mr. Stewart adds : '' I wrote this in the tent at 11 o'clock at night during twilight." If you take this trip in winter, however, you have to pur- chase a sled at Juneau, and sled it over the frozen water- ways to Dawson City. For the benefit of my readers in Canada and for parties leaving for the great Xorthwest Territory for the gold fields, I take pleasure in quoting the following description of a Canadian route : — " Canadians should awaken to the fact that they have emphatically ' the inside track ' to their own gold fields, a route not half the distance, largely covered by railways and steamboats, with supply stations at convenient inter- vals all the way. By this route the gold-fields can be reached in two months or six Aveeks, and the cost of travel is ridiculously cheap — nearly anybody can afford to go even now, and by the spring it should be fitted out for the ac- commodation of any amount of traffic. The details of the information in the following article are given by Mr. A. H. H. Heming, the artist who ac- 28 KLONDYEE FACTS. companied Mr. Whitney in his journey towards the Barren Lands, and the data may be accepted as correct;, as they were secured from the Hudson Bay officials. The details of the inland Canadian route, briefly, are as follows : By C. P. R. to Calgary, and thence north by rail to Edmonton ; from there by stage to Athabasca Land- ing, 40 miles ; then, there is a continuous waterway for canoe travel to Fort Macpherson, at the mouth of the Mackenzie Eiver, from which point the Peel River lies southward to the gold region. The exact figures are as follows : MILES. Edmonton to Athabasca Landing 40 To Fort McMurray 240 Fort Chippew3^an 185 Smith Landing 102 Fort Smith 16 Fort Resolution 194 Fort Providence 1G8 Fort Simpson 101 Fort Wrigley 130 Fort Norman 184 Fort Good Hope 174 Fort Macpherson 282 Total.... 1882 There are only two jiortages on this route of any size — that from Edmonton to Athabasca Landing, over which there is a stage and wagon line, and at Smith Landing, six- teen miles, over which the Hudson Bay Company has a tram- way. There are four or live other portages of a few hun- dred yards, but Avith these exceptions there is a fine '* down grade" water route all the way. It is the old Ihidson Bay trunk line to the north that has been in use for nearly KLONDYKE FACTS. 29 a century. AVlierever thei'e is a lake or a long stretch of deep water river navigation the company has small freight steamers which ply back and forward during the summer between the portage points or shallows. With compara- tively little expenditure the company or the Government can improve the facilities along the line so that any amount of freight or any number of passengers can be taken into the gold region at less than half the time and cost that it takes Americans to reach it from Port St. Michael, at the mouth of the Yukon to the Klondyke, exclusive of the steamer trip of 2500 miles from Seattle to Port St. Michael. Canadians can leave here on a Monday at 11.15 A.M., and reach Edmonton on Friday at 7 p.m. From that point, a party of three men with a canoe, should reach Fort Macpherson easily in from 50 to GO days, provided they are able-bodied young fellows Avith experience in that sort of travel. They will need to take canoes from here, unless they propose to hire Indians with large birch bark canoes to carry them. Birch bark canoes can be secured of any size up to the big ones manned by ten Indians that carry three tons. But birch barks are not reliable unless Indians are taken along to doctor them, and keep them from get- ting water-logged. The Hudson Bay Company will also contract to take freight northward on their steamers until tlie close of navigation. Travellers to the gold mines leaving now would probably reach Fort Macpherson before navigation closed. The letter from Eev. Mr. Stringer, the missionary, pub- lished in the Spectator on July 2, shows that the ice had only commenced to run in the Peel Eiver, which is the Avater route south-east from Fort Macpherson into the gold region, on September 30 last year. Any Canadians who are anxious to get into the Klon- dyke ahead of the Americans can leave between now and 30 KLONBTKE FACTS. August 1, reach Fort Macpherson, and if winter comes on they can exchange their canoes for dog trains, and reach tlie Klondyke without half the difficulty that would be experienced on the Alaska route. The great advantage of the inland route is that it is an organized line of communi- cation. Travellers need not carry any more food than will take them from one Hudson Bay post to the next, and then there is abundance of fish and wild fowl en route. They can also be in touch with such civilization as prevails up there, can always get assistance at the posts, and will have some place to stay should they fall sick or meet with an accident. If they are lucky enough to make their pile in the Klondyke, they can come back by tlie dog sled route during the winter. (There is one winter mail to Fort Macpherson in winter.) Dogs for teams can be pur- chased at nearly any of the line of Hudson Bay posts that form a chain of road-houses on the trip. Parties travelling alone will not need to employ guides until they get near Fort Macpherson, and from there on to the Klondyke, as the rest of the route from Edmonton is so well defined, having been travelled for years, that no guides are required. You don't need a coujdIc of thousand dollars to start for Klondyke to-morrow by the Edmonton route. All you need is a good constitution, some experience in boating and camping, and about 1150. Suppose a party of three decide to start. First they will need to purchase a canoe, about 135 or less ; first-class ticket from Hamilton to Ed- monton, $71.40 ; second class, ditto, $40.90 ; cost of food at Edmonton for three men for two months (should consist of pork, flour, tea and baking-powder), $35 ; freight on canoe to Edmonton, $23. Total for three men from Ham- ilton to Fort Macpherson, provided they travel second- class on the C. P. E. will be $318.70. These figures are furnished by Mr. Heming, who has been over the route KLONDYKE FACTS. 31 400 miles north of Edmonton, and got the rest of his data from the Hudson Bay officials. If three men chip in 1150 each they Avould have a mar- gin of over 1300 for purchasing their tools and for trans- port from Fort Macpherson to the Klondyke. This is how it may be done on the cheap, though Mr. Heming con- siders it ample for any party starting this summer. Prices will likely rise on the route when the rush begins. If the Hudson Bay peoj^le are alive to their interests they will forward a large amount of supplies for Fort Macpherson immediately and make it the base of su^iplies for the Klon- dyke during the coming winter. Parties should consist of three men each, as that is the crew of a canoe. It will take GOO pounds of food to carry three men over the route. Passengers on the C. P. E, are entitled to carry 600 pounds of baggage. The paddling is all down stream, except when they turn south up Peel River, and sails should be taken, as there is often a favor- able wind for days. There are large scows on the line, manned by ten men each and known as ' sturgeon heads.'' They are like canal boats, but are punted along and are used by the Hudson Bay people for taking forward supplies to the forts. The return trip to the United States is usually made by the Yukon steamers from Dawson City direct to St. Michael via the Yukon and Anvik River, thence by ocean steamer from St. Michael to San Francisco.^' The following letter is interesting to the jirospector as showing the difficulties to overcome uji the Taiya Pass to Lake Lindeman. Winnipeg, July 27, 1897. A letter has been received from George McLeod, one of the members of the Winnipeg party of gold hunters that 32 KLONDYKE FACTS. left here recently for the Yukon. He wrote from Lake Lindeman under date of July 4, and states that the party expected to leave on the journey from the river a week later. They had a fine boat, with a freight capacity of two tons about completed. The real work of the expedi- tion started when the small steamer which conveyed the party from Juneau arrived at Dyea. The men had to transfer their goods to a lighter one mile from shore, each man looking after his own joackages. After getting every- thing ashore the party was organized for ascent of the mountain pass, which at the hardest point is 3,000 feet above sea level. McLeod and his chum, to save time and money too, engaged 35 Indians to pack their supplies over the mountains, but they had to carry their own bed- ding and grub to keep them on the road. It is fifteen miles to the summit of the pass and the jaarty made twelve miles the first day, going into camp at night tired from climbing over rocks, stumps, logs and hills, working through rivers and creeks and pushing their way through brush. At the end of twelve miles they thought they had gone fifty. On the second day out they began to scale the summit of the mountain. Hill after hill confronted them, each one being steeper than the last. There was snow on the top of the mountain, and rain was falling, and this added greatly to the difficulties of the ascent. In many places the men had to crawl on their hands and knees, so pre- cipitous was the mountain side. Time after time the rnen Avould slij) back several inches, but they recovered them- selves and went at it again. Finally, the summit was gained, McLeod being the first of the party to reach the top. After resting and chang- ing their clothes the descent was commenced. j\IcLeod and his chums purchased sleighs, on which they loaded their goods and hauled for five miles. This was extremely laborious work, and the men were so used up working in KLONDYKE FACTS. 33 the scorching sun that tliey were compelled to work at nights and sleep during the day. Two days after the de- scent hegan the sleiglis were abandoned, and the men packed the goods for three miles and a half. They were fortunate in securing the services of a man who had two horses to convey the goods to Lake Lindeman. McLeod says the worry in getting over the pass is terri- ble, and he has no desire to repeat the experience. He advises all who go in to have their goods packed all the way from Dyea to Lake Lindeman. It costs 17 or 18 cents per pound for packing. j\IcLeod expected that Klondyke would not be reached before July 25. I think it specially valuable for the reader to give him the approximate distances to Fort Cudahy, Avhich is below Dawson City via the various routes. This table of distances has been prepared by Mr. James Ogilvie, and I also give a number of his notes which will be of great value to the traveller when making tlie trip from Juneau to Dawson City. APPROXIMATE DISTANCES TO FORT CUDAHY. VIA ST, MICHAEL. Miles. San Francisco to Dutch Harbor 2,400 Seattle or Victoria to Dutch Harbor 3.000 Dutch Harbor to St. Michael 750 St. Michael to Cudahy 1,600 VIA TAIYA PASS. Victoria to Taiya 1,000 Taiya to Cudaliy 650 VIA STIKIXE RIVER. Victoria to "Wrangell 750 Wrangell to Telegraph Creek 150 Telegraph Creek to Teslin Lake 150 Teslin Lake to Cudahv 650 3 g4 KL ON DYKE FACTS. DISTANCES FROM HEAD OF TAIYA INLET. Miles. Head of canoe navigation, Taiya River 5-90 Forks of Taiya River 8-38 Summit of Taiya Pass 14-76 Landing at Lake Lindeman 23-06 Foot of Lake Lindeman 37-49 Head of Lake Bennet 28-09 Boundary line B. C. and N. W. T. (Lat 60°) 38-09 Foot of Lake Bennet 53-85 Foot of Caribou Crossing (Lake Nares) 56*44 Foot of Tagish Lake 73-25 Head of Marsli Lake 78-15 Foot of Marsh Lake 97-21 Head of Miles Canon 122-94 Foot of Miles Canon 123-56 Head of White Horse Rapids 124-95 Foot of White Horse Rapids 125-33 Tahkeena River 139-92 Head of Lake Labarge 15307 Foot of Lake Labarge 184-22 Teslintoo River 215-88 Big Salmon River 24933 Little Salmon River 285-54 Five Finger Rapids 344 83 Pelly River 403.29 White River 499-11 Stewart River 508-91 Sixty-Mile Creek 530-41 Dawson City — The Principal Mining Town 575-70 Fort Reliance 582-20 Forty-Mile River 627-08 Boundary Line 667-43 " Another route is now being explored between Telegraph Creek and Teslin Lake and will soon be opened. Telegraph Creek is the head of steamer navigation on the Stikine River and is about 150 miles from Teslin Lake. The Yukon is navigable for steamers from its mouth to Teslin Lake, a distance of 2,300 miles. A road is being located KLONbYKE FACTS. 36 by the Dominion Government. A grant of $2,000 has been made by the province of British Columbia for open- ing it. '^ J. Dalton^ a trader, lias used a route overland from Chilkat Inlet to Fort Selkirk. Going up the Chilkat and Klaheela Rivers, he crosses the divide to the Tahkeena River and continues northward over a fairly open country practicable for horses. The distance from the sea to Fort Selkirk is 350 miles. '^ Last summer a Juneau butcher sent 40 head of cattle to Cudaliy. G. Bounds, the man in charge, crossed the di- vide over the Chilkat Pass, followed the shore of Lake Ar- kell and, keeping to the east of Dalton's trail, reached the Yukon just belo^v the Rink Rapids. Here the cattle were slaughtered and the meat floated down on a raft to Cudahy, where it retailed at II a pound. " It is proposed to establish a winter road somewhere across the country travelled over by Dalton and Bounds. The Yukon cannot be followed, the ice being too much broken, so that any winter road will have to be overland. A thorough exploration is now being made of all the passes at the head of X/ynn Canal and of the upper waters of the Yukon. In a few months it is expected that the best routes for reaching the district from Lynn Canal will be definitely known. *' It is said by those familiar with the locality that the storms which rage in the upper altitudes of the coast range during the greater part of the time, from October to March, are terrific. A man caught in one of them runs the risk of losing his life, unless he can reach shelter in a short time. During the summer there is nearly always a wind blowing from the sea up Chatham Strait and Lynn Canal, which lie in almost a straight line with each other, and at the head of Lynn Canal are Chilkat and Chilkoot Inlets. The distance from the coast down these channels to the 36 kLonjdyke facTB. open sea is about 380 miles. The mountains on each side of the water confine the currents of air, and deflect inclined currents in the direction of the axis of the channel, so that tliere is nearly always a strong wind blowing up the channel. Coming from the sea, this wind is heavily charged with moisture, which is precipitated when the air currents strike the mountains, and the fall of rain and snow is consequently very heavy. " In Chilkat Inlet there is not much shelter from the south wind, which renders it unsafe for ships calling there. Capt. Hunter told me he would rather visit any other part of the coast than Chilkat. "To carry the survey from the island across to Chilkoot Inlet I had to get up on the mountains north of Haines mission, and from there could see both inlets. Owing to the bad weather I could get no observation for azimuth, and had to produce the survey from Pyramid Island to Taiya Inlet by reading the angles of deflection between the courses. At Taiya Inlet I got my first observation, and deduced the azimuths of my courses up to that point. Taiya Inlet has evidently been the valley of a glacier ; its sides are steep and smooth from glacial action ; and this, with the wind almost constantly blowing landward, renders getting upon the shore difficult. Some long sights were therefore necessary. The survey was made up to the head of the Inlet on the 2d of June. Preparations were then commenced for taking the supplies and instruments over the coast range of mountains to the head of Lake Linde- man on the Lewes River. Commander Newell kindly aided me in making arrangements with the Indians, and did all he could to induce them to be reasonable in their demands. This, however, neither he nor any one else could accomplish. They refused to carry to the lake for less than $20 per hundred pounds, and as they had learned that the expedition was an English one, the second chief TUB BOLNDAUY LINE BErWtEN AEASKA AND NOKTIIWEST TEURIToKIES SHOWING OVERLAND TRIP TO DAWSON CITY FnOJI LAKE BKNNET KLONDYKE FACTS. 37 of the Chilkoot ludians recalled some memories of an old quarrel which the tribe had with the English many years ago, in which an uncle of his was killed, and he thought we should pay for the loss of his uncle by being charged an exorbitant price for our packing, of which he had the sole control. Commander Newell told him I had a permit from the Great Fatber at Washington to pass through his coun- try safely, that he would see that I did so, and if the In- dians interfered with me they would be punished for doing so. After much talk they consented to carry our stuff to the summit of tlie mountain for $10 per hundred pounds. This is about two-thirds of the whole distance, includes all the climbing and all the Avoods, and is by far the most difficult part of the way. " On the Gth of June 120 Indians, men, women and chil- dren, started for the summit. I sent two of my party with them to see the goods delivered at the place agreed upon. Each carrier when given a pack also got a ticket, on which was inscribed the contents of the pack, its weight, and the amount the individual was to get for carrying it. They were made to understand that they had to produce these tickets on delivering their packs, but were not told for what reason. As each pack was delivered one of my men receipted the ticket and returned it. The Indians did not seem to understand the import of this ; a fcAV of them pre- tended to have lost their tickets ; and as they could not get paid Avithout them, my assistant, who had duplicates of every ticket, furnished them Avith receipted copies, after examining their packs. " "While they Avere packing to the summit I was producing the survey, and I met them on their return at the foot of the canon, about eight miles from the coast, Avhere I paid them. They came to the camp in the early morning before I Avas up, and for about tAvo hours there was quite a hub- bub. "When paying them I tried to get their names, but 38 KLONBYEE FACTS. very few of them would give any Indian name, nearly all, after a little reflection, giving some common English name. My list contained little else than Jack, Tom, Joe, Charlie, &c. some of which were duplicated three and four times. I then found why some of them had pretended to lose their tickets at the summit. Three or four who had thus acted presented themselves twice for payment, producing first the receipted ticket, afterwards the one they claimed to have lost, demanding pay for both. They were much taken aback when they found that their duplicity had been discovered. " These Indians are perfectly heartless. They will not render even the smallest aid to each other without j)ay- ment ; and if not to each other, much less to a white man. I got one of them, whom I had previously assisted with his pack, to take me and two of my party over a small creek in his canoe. After putting us across lie asked for money, and I gave him half a dollar. Another man stepped up and demanded pay, stating that the canoe was his. To see what the result would be, I gave to him the same amount as to the first. Immediately there were three or four more claimants for the canoe. I dismissed them with a blessing, and made up my mind that I would wade the next creek. '' While paying them I was a little apprehensive of trouble, for they insisted on crowding into my tent, and for m}-- self and the four men who were Avith me to have attempted to eject them would have been to invite trouble. I am strongly of the opinion that these Indians would have been much more difficult to deal with if they had not known that Commander Newell remained in the inlet to see that I got through without accident. " While making the survey from the head of tide water I took the azimuths and altitudes of several of the highest peaks around the head of the inlet, in order to locate KLONBYKE FACTS. 39 them, and obtain an idea of the general height of the peaks in the coast range. As it does not appear to have been done before, I have taken the opportunity of naming all the peaks, the positions of Avhich I fixed in the above way. The names and altitudes appear on my map. *' While going up from the head of canoe navigation on the Taiya River I took the angles of elevation of each station from the preceding one. I would have done this from tide water up, but found many of the courses so short and with so little increase in height that with the instru- ment I had it Avas inappreciable. From these angles I have computed the height of the summit of the Taiya Pass,* above the head of canoe navigation, as it appeared to me in June, 1887, and find it to be 3,378 feet. What depth of snow there was I cannot say. The head of canoe navigation I estimate at about 120 feet above tide water. Dr. Dawson gives it as 124 feet. ''I determined the descent from the summit to Lake Lindeman by carrying the aneroid from the lake to the summit and back again, the interval of time from start to return being about eight hours. Taking the mean of the readings at the lake, start and return, and the single read- ing at the summit, the height of the summit above the lake was found to be 1,237 feet. While making the survey from the summit down to the lake I took the angles of de- pression of each station from the preceding one, and from these angles I deduced the difference of height, which I found to be 1,354 feet, or 117 feet more than that found * The distance from the head of Taiya Inlet to the summit of the pass is 15 miles, and the whole length of tlie pass to Lake Lindeman is 23 niiles. Messrs. Healy and Wilson, dealers in general merchandise and miners' supplies at Taiya, have a train of pack horses carrying freight from the head of Lynn Canal to the summit. They hope to be able to take freight through to Lake Lindeman with their horses during the present season. 40 KLONDYKE FACTS. by the aneroid. This is quite a large difference ; but when we consider the altitude of the place, the sudden changes of temperature, and the atmospheric conditions^ it is not more than one might expect. " "While at Juneau I heard reports of a low pass from the head of Chilkoot Inlet to the head waters of Lewes Eiver. During the time I was at the head of Taiya Inlet I made inquiries regarding it, and found that there was such a pass, but could learn nothing definite about it from either whites or Indians. As Capt. Moore, who accompanied me, was very anxious to go through it, and as the reports of the Taiya Pass indicated that no wagon road or railroad could ever be built through it, while the new pass appeared, from what little knowledge I could get of it, to be much lower and possibly feasible for a wagon road, I determined to send the captain by that Avay, if I could get an Indian to accompany him. This, I found, would be difficult to do. None of the Chilkoots ap^jeared to knoAV anything of the pass, and I concluded that they wished to keep its existence and condition a secret. The Tagish, or Stick Indians, as the interior Indians are locally called, are afraid to do anything in opposition to the wishes of the Chilkoots ; so it was difficult to get any of them to join Capt. Moore ; but after much talk and encouragement from the whites around, one of them named "Jim" was induced to go. He had been through this pass before, and proved reliable and useful. The information obtained from Capt. Moore's exploration I have incorporated in my plan of the survey from Taiya Inlet, but it is not as complete as I would have liked. I have named this pass '' White Pass," in honor of the late Hon. Thos. White, Minister of the Interior, under whose authority the expedition Avas organ- ized. Commencing at Taiya Inlet, about two miles south of its north end, it follows up the valley of the Shkagway River to its source, and thence down the valley of another KLONDYKE FACTS. 41 river which Capt. Moore reijortecl to empty into the Takone or Wiudy Arm of Bove Lake (Schwatka). Dr. Dawson says this stream empties into Taku Arm, and in that event Capt. Moore is mistaken. Capt. Moore did not go all the way through to the lake, but assumed from reports he heard from tlie miners and others that the stream flowed into Windy iVrm, and this also was the idea of the Indian '^Jim" from Avhat I could gather from his remarks in broken English and Chinook. Capt. Moore estimates the distance from tide water to the summit at about 18 miles, and from the summit to the lake at about 22 to 23 miles. He reports the pass as thickly timbered all the way through. " The timber line on the south side of the Taiya Pass, as determined by barometer reading, is about 2,300 feet above the sea, while on the north side it is about 1,000 feet below the summit. This large difference is due, I think, to the different conditions in the two places. On the south side the valley is narrow and deep, and the sun can- not produce its full effect. The snow also is much deeper there, owing to the quantity Avhich drifts in from the sur- rounding mountains. On the north side the surface is sloping, and more exposed to the sun's rays. On the south side the timber is of the class peculiar to the coast, and on the north that joeculiar to the interior. The latter Avould grow at a greater altitude than the coast timber. It is possible that the summit of "White Pass is not higher than the timber line on the north of the Taiya Pass, or about 2,500 feet above tide water, and it is possibly even lower than this, as the timber in a valley such as the White Pass would hardly live at the same altitude as on the open slope on the north side. " Capt. Moore has had considerable experience in building roads in mountainous countries. He considers that this would be an easy route for a wagon road compared with some roads he has seen in British Columbia. Assuminff 42 KLONDYKE FACTS. liis distances to be correct, and the height of the pass to be probably about correctly indicated, the grades would not be very steep, and a railroad could easily be carried through if necessary. ''After completing the survey down to the lake, I set about getting my baggage down too. Of all the Indians who came to the summit with packs, only four or five could be induced to remain and pack down to the lake, although I was paying them at the rate of 14 per hundred pounds. After one trip down only two men remained, and they only in hopes of stealing something. One of them appropriated a pair of boots, and was much surprised to find that he had to pay for them on being settled with. I could not blame them much for not caring to work, as the weather was very disagreeable — it rained or snowed almost continu- ously. After the Indians left I tried to get down the stuff with the aid of my own men, but it was slavish and un- healthy labor, and after the first trip one of them was laid up with what appeared to be inflammatory rheumatism. The first time the party crossed, the sun was sliining brightly, and this brought on snow blindness, the pain of which only those who have suffered from this complaint can realize. I had two sleds with me which were made in Juneau specially for the work of getting over the mount- ains and down the lakes on the ice. AVitli these I suc- ceeded in bringing about a ton and a-half to the lakes, but found that the time it would take to get all down in this way would seriously interfere with the programme arranged with Dr. Dawson, to say nothing of the suffering of the men and myself, and the liability to sickness which pro- tracted physical exertion under such uncomfortable con- ditions and continued suffering from snow blindness ex- pose us to. I had with me a white man who lived at the head of the inlet with a Tagish Indian woman. This man had a good deal of influence with the Tagish tribe, of EL Oyi) YKE FA CTS. 43 whom the greater number were then in the neighborhood Avhere he resided, trj'ing to get some odd jobs of work, iind I sent liim to the head of the inlet to try and induce tlie Tagish Indians to undertake the transj)ortation, offer- ing them So per hundred pounds. In the meantime Capt. Moore and the Indian ''Jim" had rejoined me. I had their assistance for a day or two, and "Jim's" presence aided indirectly in inducing the Indians to come to my relief. " The Tagish are little more than slaves to the more power- ful coast tribes, and are in constant dread of offending them in any way. One of the j)rivileges Avhicli the coast tribes claim is the exclusive right to all Avork on the coast or in its vicinity, and the Tagish are afraid to dis2)ute this claim. When my Avhite man asked the Tagish to come over and pack they objected on the grounds mentioned. After considerable ridicule of their cowardice, and explana- tion of the fact that they had the exclusive right to all work in their own country, the country on the side of the north side of the coast range being admitted by the coast Indians to belong to the Tagish tribe just as the coast tribes had the privilege of doing all the work on the coast side of the mountains, and that one of their num- ber was already working with me unmolested, and likely to continue so, nine of them came over, and in fear and trembling began to pack down to the lake. After they were at work for a few days some of the Chilkoots came out and also started to work. Soon I had quite a number at work and was getting my stuff down quite fast. But this good fortune Avas not .to continue. Owing to the prevailing wet, cold Aveather on the mountains, and the ditticulty of getting through the soft AvetsnoAv, the Indians soon began to quit Avork for a day or two at a time, and to gamble Avith one another for the Avages already earned. Many of them Avanted to be paid in full, but this I posi- 4-1 KLONBYKE FACTS. tively refused, knowing that to do so was to have them all apjjly for their earnings and leave me until necessity com- pelled them to go to work again. I once for all made them distinctly understand that I would not pay any of them until the whole of the stuff was down. As many of them had already earned from twelve to fifteen dollars each, to lose which Avas a serious matter to them, they reluctantly resumed work and kept at it until all was delivered. This done, I paid them off, and set about getting my outfit across the lake, which I did with my own party and the two Peterborough canoes which I had with me. " These two canoes travelled about 3,000 miles by rail and about 1,000 miles by steamship before being brought into service. They did considerable work on Chilkoot and Tagish Inlets, and were then packed over to the head of Lewes River (Lake Lindeman), from where they were used in making the survey of Lewes and Yukon Rivers. In this work they made about 650 landings. They were then transported on sleighs from the boundary on the Yukon to navigable water on the Porcupine. *'In the spring of 1888 they descended the hitter river, heavily loaded, and through much rough water, to the mouth of BelFs River, and up it to McDougall's Pass. They were then carried over the pass to Pophir River and were used in going down the latter to Peel River, and thence up Mackenzie River 1,400 miles ; or, exclusive of railway and ship carriage, they were carried about 170 miles and did about 2,500 miles of work for the expedition, making in all about 1,700 landings in no easy manner and going through some very bad water. I left them at Fort Chipe- wyan in fairly good condition, and, with a little j^aint- ing, they would go through the same ordeal again. After getting all my outfit over to the foot of Lake Linde- man I set some of the party to pack it to the head of Lake Bennet. KLONDYKE FACTS. 45 " I employed the rest of the party in looking for timber to build n boat to carry my outfit of j)rovisions and imple- ments down the river to the vicinity of the international boundary, a distance of about 700 miles. It took several days to find a tree large enough to make j)lank for the boat I wanted, as the timber around the upper end of the lake is small and scrubby. My boat was finished on the evejiing of the 11th of July, and on the 12th I started a portion of the party to load it and go ahead with it and the outfit to the canon. They had instructions to examine the cafion and, if necessary, to carry a part of the outfit past it — in any case, enough to support the party back to the coast should accident necessitate such procedure. With the rest of the party I started to carry on the survey, which may now be said to have fairly started ahead on the lakes. This proved tedious work, on account of the stormy weather. " In the summer months there is nearly always a wind blowing in from the coast ; it blows down the lakes and produces quite a heavy swell. This would not prevent the canoes going with the decks on, but, as we had to land every mile or so, the rollers breaking on the generally flat beach proved very troublesome. On this account I found I could not average more than ten miles per day on the lakes, little more than half of what could be done on the river. " The survey was completed to the canon on the 20th of July. There I found the party with the large boat had arrived on the 18th, having carried a j)art of the supplies past the canon, and were awaiting my arrival to run through it with the rest in the boat. Before doing so, however, I made an examination of the cafion. The rapids below it, particularly the last rapid of the series (called the White Horse by the miners), I found would not be safe to run. I sent two men through the cafion in one of the canoes to 46 KLONDYKE FACTS. await the arrival of the boat, and to be ready in case of an accident to pick us up. Every man in the party was sup- plied with a life-preserver, so that should a casualty occur we Avould all have floated. Those in the canoe got through all right ; but they would not have liked to rej)eat the trip. They said the canoe jumped about a great deal more than they thought it would, and I had the same experience when going through in the boat. " The passage through is made in about three minutes, or at the rate of about 12|^ miles an hour. If the boat is kept clear of the sides there is not much danger in high water ; but in low water there is a rock in the middle of the channel, near the upper end of the canon, that renders the passage more difficult. I did not see this rock myself, but got my information from some miners I met in the interior, who described it as being about 150 yards down from the head and a little to the west of the middle of the channel. In low water it barely projects above the surface. When I passed through there was no indication of it, either from the bank above or from the boat. " The distance from the head to the foot of the canon is five-eighths of a mile. There is a basin about midway in it about 150 yards in diameter. This basin is circular in form, with steep sloping sides about 100 feet high. The lower jDart of the canon is much rougher to run through than the upper part, the fall being apparently much greater. The sides are generally perpendicular, about 80 to 100 feet high, and consist of basalt, in some places showing hexagonal columns. " The White Horse Rapids are about three-eighths of a mile long. They are the most dangerous rapids on the river, and are never run through in boats except by ac- cident. They are confined by low basaltic banks, which, at the foot, suddenly close in and make the channel about 30 yards wide. It is here the danger lies, as there is a KLONDYKE FACTS. 47 sudden drop and the water rushes through at a tremen- dous rate, leaping and seething like a cataract. The miners have constructed a portage road on the west side, and put down rollways in some places on whicli to shove their boats over. They have also made some windlasses with which to haul their boats up hill, notably one at the foot of the canon. This roadway and windlasses must have cost them many hours of hard labor. Should it ever be necessary, a tramway could be built past the canon on tlie east side with no great difficulty. With the exception of the Five Finger Eapids these appear to be the only serious rapids on the whole length of the river. " Five Finger Kapidsare formed by several islands stand- ing in the channel and backing up the Avater so much as to raise it about a foot, causing a swell below for a few yards. The islands are composed of conglomerate rock, similar to the cliffs on each side of the river, whence one would infer that there has been a fall here in past ages. For about two miles below the rapids there is a pretty swift current, but not enough to prevent the ascent of a steam- boat of moderate power, and the rapids themselves I do not think would present any serious obstacle to the ascent of a good boat. In very high water warping miglit bo re- quired. Six miles below these rapids are what are known as ' Rink Eapids.' This is simply a barrier of rocks, which extends from the westerly side of the river about half way across. Over this barrier there is a ripple which would offer no great obstacle to the descent of a good canoe. On the easterly sides there is no ripple, and the current is smooth and the water apparently deep. I tried with a 6 foot paddle, but could not reach the bottom. " On the 11th of August I met a party of miners coming out who had passed Stewart River a few days before. They saw no sign of Dr. Dawson having been there. This was welcome news for me, as I expected he would have 48 KLONDYEE FACTS. reached that point long before I arrived, on account of the many delays I had met with on the coast range. These miners also gave me the pleasant news that the story told at the coast about the fight with the Indians at Stewart River was false, and stated substantially what I have already repeated concerning it. The same evening I met more miners on their way out, and the next day met three boats, each containing four men. In the crew of one of them was a son of Capt. Moore, from whom the captain got such information as induced him to turn back and accompany them out. '' Next day, the 13th, I got to the mouth of the Pelly, and found that Dr. Dawson had arrived there on the 11th. The doctor also had experienced many delays, and had heard the same story of the Indian uprising in the interior. I was pleased to find that he was in no immediate want of provisions, the fear of which had caused me a great deal of uneasiness on the way down the river, as it was arranged between us in Victoria that I Avas to take with me provi- sions for his party to do them until their return to the coast. The doctor was so much behind the time arranged to meet me that he determined to start for the coast at once. I therefore set about making a short report and plan of my survey to this point ; and, as I was not likely to get another opportunity of writing at such length for a year, I applied myself to a correspondence designed to satisfy my friends and acquaintances for the ensuing twelve months. This necessitated three days' hard work. " On the morning of the 17tli the doctor left for the out- side world, leaving me with a feeling of loneliness that only those Avho have experienced it can realize. I remained at the mouth of the Pelly during the next day taking mag- netic and astronomical observations, and making some measurements of the river. On the 19tli I resumed the survey and reached White Eiver on the 25th. Here I spent KL OXD YKE FA CTS. 49 most of a day trying to ascend this river, but found it im- practicable, on account of the swift current and shallow and very muddy water. The water is so muddy that it is impossible to see through one-eighth of an inch of it. The current is very strong, probably eight miles or more per hour, and the numerous bars in the bed are constantly changing place. After trying for several hours, the base men succeeded in doing about half a mile only, and I came to the conclusion that it was useless to try to get up this stream to the boundary with canoes. Had it proved feasible I had intended making a survey of this stream to the boundary, to discover more esj^ecially the facilities it offered for the transport of supplies in the event of a survey of the International Boundary being undertaken. '' I reached Stewart River on the 26th. Here I remained a day taking magnetic observations, and getting informa- tion from a miner, named McDonald, about the country up that river. McDonald had s^^ent the summer up the river prospecting and exploring. His information will be given in detail further on. " Fort Reliance was reached on the 1st of September, and Forty Mile River (Cone-Hill River of Schwatka) on the 7th. In the interval between Fort Reliance and Forty ^lile River there were several days lost by rain. ''At Forty Mile River I made some arrangements with the traders there (]Messrs. Harper & McQuestion) about supplies during the winter, and about getting Indians to assist me in crossing from the Yukon to the head of the Porcupine, or perhaps on to the Peel River. I then made a survey of the Forty Mile River up to the canon. I found the canon would be difficult of ascent, and dangerous to descend, and therefore, concluded to defer further operations until the winter, and until after I had deter- mined the longitude of my winter post near the boundary, when I would be in a much better position to locate the 4 50 KLONDYKE FACTS. intersection of the International Boundary with this river, a point important to determine on account of the number and richness of the mining claims on the river. " I left Forty Mile Eiver for the boundary line between Alaska and the Northwest Territories on the 12th Sep- tember, and finished the survey to that point on the 14th. I then spent two days in examining the valley of the river in the vicinity of the boundary to get the most extensive view of the horizon possible, and to find a tree large enough to serve for a transit stand. " Before leaving Toronto I got Mr, Foster to make large brass plates with V's on them, which could be screwed firmly to a stump, and thus be made to serve as a transit stand. I required a stump at least 22 inches in diameter to make a base large enough for the plates Avhen properly placed for the transit. In a search which covered about four miles of the river bank, on both sides, I found only one tree as large as 18 inches. I mention this fact to give an idea of the size of the trees along the river in this vicinity. I had this stump enlarged by firmly fixing pieces on the sides so as to bring it up to the requisite size. This done, I built around the stump a small transit house of the ordinary form and then mounted and adjusted my transit. Meanwhile, most of the party were busy prepar- ing our winter quarters and building a magnetic observa- tory. As I had been led to expect extremely low temper- atures during the winter, I adopted precautionary measures, so as to be as comfortable as circumstances would permit during our stay there. DESCKIPTIOX OF THE YUKOX, ITS AFFLUENT STREAMS, AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. ^' I will now give, from my own observation and from information received, a more detailed description of the KLOSBYKE FACTS. 51 Lewes Eiver, its affluent streams, and the resources of the adjacent country. '*' For the purpose of navigation a description of the Lewes River begins at the head of Lake Bennet. Above that point, and between it and Lake Lindeman, there is only about three-quarters of a mile of river, which is not more than fifty or sixty yards wide, and two or three feet deep, and is so swift and rough that navigation is out of the question, "Lake Lindeman is about five miles long and half a mile wide. It is deep enough for all ordinary purposes. Lake Bennet * is twenty-six and a quarter miles long, for the upper fourteen of which it is about half a mile wide. About midway in its length an arm comes in from the west, which Schwatka appears to have mistaken for a river, and named Wheaton River. This arm is wider than the other arm down to that point, and is reported by Indians to be longer and heading in a glacier which lies in the pass at the head of Chilkoot Inlet. This arm is, as far as seen, surrounded by high mountains, apparently much higher than those on the arm we travelled down. Below the junction of the two arms the lake is about one and a half miles wide, with deep water. Above the forks the water of the east branch is muddy. This is c:iused by the streams from the numerous glaciers on the head of the tributaries of Lake Lindeman. '• A stream which flows into Lake Bennet at the south- west corner is also very dirty, and has shoaled quite a large portion of the lake at its mouth. The beach at the lower end of this lake is comparatively flat and the water shoal. * A small saw-mill has been erected at the head of Lake Ben- net : lumber for boat building sells at .§100 per M. Boats 25 feet long and 5 feet beam are $60 each. Last year the ice broke up in the lake on the 12th June, but this season is earlier and the boats are expected to go down the lake about the 1st of June. 52 KLONBYKE FACTS. A deep, wide valley extends northwards from the north end of the lake, apparently reaching to the canon, or a short distance above it. This may have been originally a course for the waters of the river. The bottom of the valley is wide and sandy, and covered with scrubby timber, principally poplar and pitcli-pine. The waters of the lake empty at the extreme north-east angle through a channel not more than one hundred yards wide, which soon expands into what Schwatka called Lake Nares.* Through tliis narrow channel there is quite a current, and more than 7 feet of water, as a 6 foot paddle and a foot of arm added to its length did not reach the bottom. "The hills at the upper end of Lake Lindeman rise abruptly from the water's edge. At the lower end they are neither so steep nor so high. " Lake Nares is only two and a half miles long, and its greatest width is about a mile ; it is not deep, but is navi- gable for boats drav/ing 5 or C feet of water ; it is separated from Lake Bennet by a shallow sandy point of not more than 200 yards in length. "No streams of any consequence empty into either of these lakes. A small river flows into Lake Bennet on the west side, a short distance north of the fork, and another at the extreme north-west angle, but neither of them is of any consequence in a navigable sense. " LakeNares flows through a narrow curved channel into Bove Lake (Schwatka). This channel is not more than GOO or 700 yards long, and the water in it appears to be suf- ficiently deep for boats that could navigate the lake. The land between the lakes along this channel is low, swampy, and covered with willows, and, at the stage in which I saw it, did not rise more than 3 feet above the water. The hills on the southwest side slope up easily, and are not *The connecting waters between Lake Bennet and Tagish Lake constitute what is now called Caribou Crossing. KLONDYKE FACTS. 53 high ; on the nortli side the deep valley already referred to borders it ; and on the east side the mountains rise abruptly from the lake shore. " Bove Lake (called Tagish Lake by Dr. Dawson) is about a mile wide for the first two miles of its length, when it is joined by what the miners have called the Windy Arm. One of the Tagish Indians informed me they called it Takone Lake. Here the lake expands to a width of about two miles for a distance of some three miles, when it sud- denly narrows to about half a mile for a distance of a little over a mile, after which it widens again to about a mile and a half or more. *' Ten miles from the head of the lake it is joined by the Taku Arm from the south. This arm must be of consider- able length, as it can be seen for a long distance, and its valley can be traced through the mountains much farther than the lake itself can be seen. It is apparently over a mile wide at its mouth or junction. " Dr. Dawson includes Bove Lake and these two arms under the common name of Tagish Lake. This is much more simple and comprehensive than the various names given them by travellers. These Avaters collectively are the fishing and hunting grounds of the Tagish Indians, and as they are really one body of water, there is no reason why they should not be all included under one name. '-' From the junction with the Taku Arm to the north end of the lake the distance is about six miles, the greater part being over two miles wide. The west side is very flat and shallow, so much so that it was impossible in many places to get our canoes to the shore, and quite a distance out in the lake there was not more than 5 feet of water. The members of my party who were in charge of the large boat and outfit, went down the east side of the lake and reported the depth about the same as I found on the west side, with many large rocks. They passed through it in the night in 54 KLONBYKE FACTS. a rainstorm, and were much alarmed for the safety of the boat and provisions. It would appear that this part of the lake requires some improvement to make it in keeping with the rest of the water system with which it is con- nected. "Where the river debouches from it, it is about 150 yards wide, and for a short distance not more than 5 or 6 feet deep. The depth is, however, soon increased to 10 feet or more, and so continues down to what Schwatka calls Marsh Lake. The miners call it Mud Lake, but on this name they do not appear to be agreed, many of them calling the lower part of Tagish or Bove Lake " Mud Lake," on account of its shallowness and flat muddy shores, as seen along the west side, the side nearly always travelled, as it is more sheltered from the prevailing southerly winds. The term "Mud Lake" is, however, not applicable to this lake, as only a comparatively small part of it is shallow or muddy ; and it is nearly as inapplicable to Marsh Lake, as the latter is not markedly muddy along the west side, and from the appearance of the east shore one would not judge it to be so, as the banks appear to be high and gravelly. " Marsh Lake is a little over nineteen miles long, and averages about two miles in width. I tried to determine the width of it as I Avent along with my survey, by taking azimuths of points on the eastern shore from different stations of the survey ; but in only one case did I succeed, as there were no jirominent marks on that shore which could be identified from more than one place. The piece of river connecting Tagish and Marsh Lakes is about five miles long, and averages 150 to 200 yards in width, and, as already mentioned, is deep, except for a short distance at the head. On it are situated the only Indian houses to be found in the interior with any pretension to skill in construction. They show much more labor and imitativeness than one knowing anything about the Indian in his native state KLONBYKE FACTS. 55 would expect. The plan is evidently taken from the Indian houses on the coast, which appear to me to be a poor copy of the houses which the Hudson's Bay Comjjany's servants build around their trading posts. These houses do not appear to have been used for some time past, and are almost in ruins. The Tagish Indians are now generally on the coast, as they find it much easier to live there than in their own country. As a matter of fact, what they make in their own country is taken from them by the Coast Indians, so that there is little inducement for them to remain. '^ The Lewes River, where it leaves Marsh Lake, is about 200 yards wide, and averages this Avidth as far as the canon. I did not try to find bottom anywhere as I went along, ex- cept where I had reason to think it shallow, and there I always tried with my paddle. I did not anywhere find bottom with this, which shows that there is no part of this stretch of the river with less than six feet of water at medium height, at which stage it appeared to me the river was at that time. ''From the head of Lake Bennet to the canon the cor- rected distance is ninety-five miles, all of which is navigable for boats drawing 5 feet or more. Add to this the westerly arm of Lake Bennet, and the Takone or Windy Arm of Tagish Lake, each about fifteen miles in length, and the Taku Arm of the latter lake, of unknown length, but prob- ably not less than thirty miles, and Ave have a stretch of water of upwards of one hundred miles in length, all easily navigable ; and, as has been pointed out, easily connected with Taiya Inlet through the White Pass. '' No streams of any importance enter any of these lakes so far as I know. A river, called by Schwatka " McClin- tock River,'' enters Marsh Lake at the loAver end from the east. It occupies a large valley, as seen from the westerly side of the lake, but the stream is apparently unimportant. 56 KLONhYKE FACTS. Another small stream, apparently only a creek, enters the south-east angle of the lake. It is not probable tliat any stream coming from the east side of the lake is of import- ance, as the strip of country between the Ijcwes and Teslin- too is not more than than thirty or forty miles in width at this point. '* The Taku Arm of Tagish Lake, is, so far, with the ex- ception of reports from Indians, unknown ; but it is equally improbable that any river of importance enters it, as it is so near the source of the waters flowing northwards. How- ever, this is a question that can only be decided by a proper exploration. The canon I have already described and will only add that it is five-eighths of a mile long, about 100 feet wide, with perpendicular banks of basaltic rock from 60 to 100 feet high. " Below the canon proper there is a stretch of rapids for about a mile ; then about half a mile of smooth water, fol- lowing which are the AVhite Horse Rapids, which are three- eighths of a mile long, and unsafe for boats. "The total fall in the caiion and succeeding rapids was measured and found to be 3::^ feet. Were it ever necessary to make this i)art of the river navigable it will be no easy task to overcome the obstacles at this point ; but a tram or raihvay could, with very little difficulty, be constructed along the east side of the river past the canon. *' For some distance below the AVhite Horse Kapids the current is swift and the river wide, with many gravel bars. The reach between these rapids and Lake Labarge, a dis- tance of twenty-seven and a half miles, is all smooth water, with a strong current. The average width is about 150 yards. There is no impediment to navigation other than the swift current, and this is no stronger than on tlie lower part of the river, which is already navigated : nor is it worse than on the Saskatchewan and Eed Rivers in the more eastern part of our territory. KLONDYKE FACTS. 57 " About midway iu this stretch the Tahkeena River * Joins the Lewes. This river is, apparently, about half the size of the latter. Its waters are muddy, indicating the passage through a clayey district. I got some indefinite information about this river from an Indian who happened to meet me just below its mouth, but I could not readily nuike him understand me, and his replies were a compound of Chinook, Tagish, and signs, and therefore largely unin- telligible. From what I could understand Avith any cer- tainty, the river was easy to descend, there being no bad rapids, and it came out of a lake much larger than any I had yet passed. ' ' Here I may remark that I have invariably found it difficult to get reliable or definite information from Indians, The reasons for this are many. Most of the Indians it has been my lot to meet are expecting to make something, and consequent]}' are very chary about doing or saying anything unless they think they will be Avell rewarded for it. They are naturally very suspicious of strangers, and it takes some tinu', and some knowledge of their language, to overcome this suspicion and gain their confidence. If you begin at once to ask questions about their country, Avithout pre- viously having thenrunderstand that you have no unfriend- ly motive in doing so, they become alarmed, and altliough you may not meet with a positive refusal to ansAver ques- tions, you make A'ery little progress in getting desired in- formation. On the other hand I have met cases Avhere, either through fear or hope of rcAvard, they Avere only too anxious to impart all they kncAV or had heard, and even more if they thouglifc it Avould jjlease their hearer, I need hardly say that such information is often not at all in ac- cordance Avitli the facts. * The Tahkeeua was formerly much used by the Chilkat Indians as a means of reaching the interior, but ncAer by the miners OAvint? to the distance from the sea to its head. 58 ELONDYKE FACTS. " I have several times found that some act of mine when in their presence lias aroused either their fear, superstition or cupidity. As an instance : on the Bell Eiver I met some Indiaiis coming down stream as I was going up. "VYe were ashore at the time, and invited them to join us. They started to come in, but very slowly, and all the time kept a watchful eye on us. I noticed that my double-barrelled shot gun was lying at my feet, loaded, and picked it up to unload it, as I knew they would be handling it after land- ing. This alarmed them so much that it was some time before they came in, and I don't think they would have come ashore at all had they not heard that a joarty of white men of whom we answered the description, were com- ing through that way (they had learned this from the Hudson's Bay Company's officers), and concluded we were the party described to them. After drinking some of our tea, and getting a supply for themselves, they became quite friendly and communicative. " I cite these as instances of what one meets with Avho comes in contact with Indians, and of how trifles affect them. A sojourn of two or three days with them and the assistance of a common friend would do much to disabuse them of such ideas, but when you have no such aids you must not expect to make much progress. " Lake Labarge is thirty-one miles long. In the upjier thirteen it varies from three to four miles in width ; it then narrows to about two miles for a distance of seven miles, when it begins to widen again, and gi'adually expands to about two and a-half or three miles, the lower six miles of it maintaining the latter width. The survey was carried along the western shore, and while so engaged I deter- mined the Avidth of the upper wide part by triangulation at two points, the width of the narrow middle part at three points, and the width of the lower part at three points. Dr. Dawson on his way out made a track survey of the KLONDYKE FACTS. 59 (fjistern shore. The western sliore is irregular in many places, being indented by large bays, especially at the upper and lower ends. These bays are, as a rule, shallow, more especially those at the lower end. " Just above where the lake narrows in the middle there hi a large island. It is three and a-half miles long and about half a mile in width. It is shown on Schwatka's ma}) as a peninsula, and called by liim Richtofcn Rocks. How he came to tliink it a peninsula I cannot understand, as it is well out in the lake ; the nearest point of it to tlie western shore is u])wur(ls (d' half a mile distant, and tlie extreme width of the lake hvvc. is not more than five miles, wliic.h includes the depth of tlie deepest bays on the western side. It is therefore difficult to understand that he did not see it as an island. The upper half of this island is gravelly, and does not rise very high above the lake. The lower end is rocky and high, the rock being of a bright red color. "At the lower end of the lake there is a large valley ex- tending northwards, which has evidently at one time been the outlet of the lake. Dr. Dawson has noted it and its peculiarities. His remarks regarding it will be found on pages 150-160 of his report entitled ' Yukon District and Northern portion of British Columbia,' puldished in 1arge the river, for a distance of about five miles, preserves a generally uniform width and an easy current of about four miles per hour. It then makes a short turn round a low gravel point, and flows in exactly the opposite of its general course for a mile when it again turns sharply to its general direction. The current around this curve and for some distance below it — in all four or five miles — is very swift. I timed it in several places and found it from six to seven miles an hour. It then moderates te four or live, and continues so until the Teslintoo River is reached, thirty-one and seven tenths miles from Lake Labarge. Tlie average width of this part of the river is about 150 yards, and the depth is sufficient to afford passage for boats drawing at least 5 feet. It is, as a rule, crooked, and consequently a little difficult to navi- gate. " The Teslintoo * was so called by Dr. Dawson — this, ac- *Tlie limited amount of prospecting that has been done on this river is said to be very satisfactory, fine gold having been found in all jiarts of the triver. The lack of supplies is the great draw- back to its development, and this will not be overcoaie to any ex- k'LONbVKE FACTS. %\ fcording to iuforniation obtained by him, being the Indian name. It is called by tlie miners * Hootalinkwa ' or HotaliiK|iia. and was called l)y S(dnvatka, who appears to have bestowed no other attention to it, the Xewberry, al- though it is apparently much larger than the Lewes. This was so apparent that in my interim reports I stated it as a fact. Owing to circumstances already narrated. 1 liad not time wliile at the moutli to make any measurement to de- termine the relative size of tlie rivers : but on his Avay out Dr. Dawson nuide these measurements, and his report, be- fore referred to, gives the following values of the cross sec- tions of each stream : Lewes, 3,015 feet ; Teslintoo, 3,809 feet. In the same connection he states that the Lewes ap- peared to be about 1 foot above its lowest summer level, while the Teslintoo a[)peared to lie fit its lowest level. Assuming tliis to be so, and taking his widths as our data, it would reduce his cross section of the Lewes to 2,595 feet. Owing, however, to the current in the Lewes, as determined by Dr. Dawson, being just double that of the Teslintoo, the figures being 5*0iit ,u'avc him the privilege of leaving the place within twenty-four hours, after which lie Avas informed that he was lial)le to be shot if seen by them in the h)cality. 'I'iicy then j)illaged the place and set fire to it, leaving nothing but the remains of the tAVo chimneys which are still standing. This raid and capture took place on the 1st August. 18.V*. •* Mr. Campbell droppcil down tlie river, and met some of the local Indians who returned with him. but the robbers had made their escape. 1 have lu'ard that the local Indians Avished to pursue and overtake them, but to this Mr. Campbell would iu)t consent. Had they done so it is probable not many of the i-aidcrs would have escaped, as the superior h)ca] knowledge of the natives Avould have given them an advantage difficult to estimate, and the confidence and spirit derived fnjm the aid and presence of a Avliite man or tAvo Avould be Avorth much in such a conflict. *' Mr. Campbell Avent on doAvn the river until he met the outfit for his post on its way up from Fort Yukon, Avhich he turned back. He then ascended the Pelly, crossed to the Liard, and reached Fort Simpson, on the Mackenzie, late in October. •■'Mr. Campbell's first visit to the site of Fort Selkirk Avas mjwle in 1840, under instructions from Sir George KLONBYKE FACTS. 71 Simpson, then Governor of the lliidsson'.s Buy Company. He crossed from the head waters of the Liard to the waters of the Pelly. It appears tlie Pelly, wliere lie struek it, was a stream of considerable size, for lie speaks of its appearance when he first saw it from ' Pelly Jianks,' the name given the bank from which he first beheld it, as a ' splendid river in the distance.' In Jnne, 1843, he descended the Pelly to its continence with the larger stream, which he named the * Lewes.' Here he fonnd many families of the native Indians — 'AVood Indians,' he called them. These people conveyed to him, as best they could by word and sign, the dangers that would attend a further descent of the river, rejiresenting that the country below theirs was inhabited by a tribe of fierce cannibals, who would assuredly kill and eat them. This so terrified his men that he had to return by the way he came, pursued, as he aftcu'wards learned, by the Indians, who would have murdered him- self and party had they got a favorable opportunity. Thus it was not nntil 1850 that he could establish, what he says he all along believed, 'that the Pelly and Yukon were identical.' This he did Ijy descending the river to where the i'orcupine joins it. and where in ]S47 Fort Yukon "Was established by Mr. A. U. .Murray for tiie Hudson's liay Company. " With reference to the tales told him by the Indians of bad people outside of their country, I may say that ^Mackenzie tells i)retty much the same story of the Indians on the Mackenzie when he discovered and explored that river in 1789. He had the advantage of having Indians along with him whose language was radically the same as that of the people he was coming among, and his state- ments are more explicit and detailed. Everywhere he came in contact with them they manifested, first, dread of himself and party, and when friendship and confidence were established they nearly always tried to detain him by 72 ELONDYKE FACTS. representing the peopl(! in IIk; direction he was going an unnaturally bloodthirsty and cruel, sometimes asserting the existence of monsters with supernatural powers, as ni Manitou Island, ;i few miles below the present, i'orl (iood Hope, and the people on a very large river far to the west of the Mackenzie, 2)robably the Yukon, they descril)ed to him as monsters in size, power and cruelty. " In our own time, after the intercourse that thci-e has been between them and the whites, rju)re than a suspicion of KiHih unknown, cruel pe()[)l(! lurks in the minds of numy of the Indians. It would be futih; for me to try to ascribe an origin for these fears, my knowlcflge of their language and idiosyncrasies being so limited. "Nothing more was ever done in the; vi(-inity (jf Fort Selkirk * by the Hudson's Bay Company after these events, and in 1809 the Company was onhu'cd by (Japt. Charles W. Kaymond, who represented the United States (Jovern- ment, to evacuate the post at Fort Yukon, he having found that it was west of the 141st meridian. The jirtst was occupied by the Company, however, for some time after the receipt of this order, and until Rampart House was built, which was intended to be on British territory, and to take the trade previously done at Fort Yukon. *' Under present conditions the Company cannot very well compete with the Alaska Commercial Company, whose agents do the only trade in the district, f and they appear to have abandoned — for the present at least — all * This is now a vi'inter port for steamboats of the North Ameri- can Transportation and Trading Company, \>\ying the Yukon and its tributaries. There is also a trading post liere owned by Harper & Ladue. f Since tlie date of this report the North American Transport- ation and Trading Company, better known in the Yukon valley as " Captain Healy's Company," has established a number of posts on the river. KLOyjjYKE FACTS. 73 attempt to do any trarle nearer to it than Kampart Homje to which point, notwithistanding the distance and difficul- ties in the way, many of the Indians on the Yukon make a trip every two or three years to procure goods in ex- change for their fare. "JTie clothing and blankets brought in by the Hti^' " " ' claim arc much U.-tter than th^ '-.r by the Ameri- cans. Those of them that 1 saw who had any English xhibited them with pride, and ■ ' ' I'good.' -■, to an American blanket in c . with the remark *no good,* and speak of their clothing in the ime way. "On many maps of Alaska a place named *Beed's House ' is shown on or near the upper waters of Stewart River. I made enquiries of all whom I thought likely to know anything concerning this post, but failed to elicit any information showirig that there ever had been such a place. I enquired of Mr, lieid, who was in the Company's service with Mr. CampV^ell at Fort Selkirk, and after whom I thought, possibly, the place had been called, but he told rae he knew of no such p<:^t, but that there was a small lake at some distance in a northerly direction from Fort Selkirk, wher -ed. A sort ' ha^l been made at • ^ fishermen, ; furs might have been obtained there, but it was never regarded as a trading post. '• Below Fort Selkirk, the Yukon River is from five to -ix hundred yards broad, and maintains this width down to ASliite River, a distance of ninety-six miles. Islands are numerous, so much so that there are verj' few j/arts of •lie river where there are not one or more in sight. Many of them are of considerable size, and nearly all are well timl>erean is considered good any- where else, and will pay well in the clean up. A biCt deal. San Francisco, August 2. — 0. O. Howard, jr., the mining expert and son of Gen. 0. 0. Howard, telegraphed to a Wall Street syndicate on Friday : "I have secured an option on Clarence Perry's controlling interest in four best claims at Klondyke price #2,000,000, 10 per cent, to to be paid immediately : this sum to be forfeited if conti'ol isn't carried through, and balance paid in six months. Forty square feet actually produced ^i^l 30,000, of which $00,000 in nuggets is here." On the 17tli ult., the steamer Portland, of the N. A. Transportation and Trading Co., arrived at Seattle, bring- ing a large party of miners from Klondyke via St. Michael, who brought out over $970,000 in gold dust, as that amount has been definitely located as having been shipped by the express comi^anies and banks of Seattle, while it is possible considerably more than that was brought out, in- asmuch as many individuals took nway without shipment more or less gold. Several Seattle parties were among this number, one of whom, Mr. Stanley, who went into Yukon eleven months ago, brought witli him $112,000 in gold. Others brought out dust in sums ranging from five to seventy or eighty thousand dollars. These parties brought marvellous stories of the richness of the placers in that country. Some of them had taken these amounts out of a very small portion of their claims. HAD AN EARLY TIP. North Tonawanda, N. Y., August 2. — The news of KLONDYKE FACTS. 131 the great gold discoveries in the Kloiidyke region was told in tiie Toiiawanihis h)ng before it l)ecanie isnown to the world at large through the newspapei's. A small, thick- set man walked into the Hotel Hheldon in this city on April 2, and registered under the name ol* C F. Leaven- worth, iSpokane, Wash. M. B. Pierce, the proprietor of tiie hotel, recognized in the stranger his cousin, whom he had not seen since IBiJ-i. As hoys. Pierce and Leavenworth had been chums at their old home in liochester, but they separated in 1804, Leavenworth entering the L'"nited States Army, while Pierce, who was then but seventeen years old, left for the coal regions of Pennsylvania. After the two men had hugged each other, each naturally became curious to learn how the other had fared during the thirty-three years in which they had not seen each other. Both had a long story to tell, and it took several days in which to inform Pierce of the woiulerful sights seen by Leavenworth. He had been around the world, and had visited every country and clime on the face of the globe. The last two years of his life, however, had been spent in the gold fields ^of Alaska, where he had accumu- lated a fortune. '' Why, Pierce," he said, in an ecstasy of enthusiasm, gn the second day after his arrival, ''the gold in the district where my claim is located is thicker than coal in the coal fields of Pennsylvania." After hearing his story. Pierce began to pity his cousin. When the two men were together with other friends of the proprietor, Leavenworth would begin to talk of the gold in the Klondyke. This was not appreciated by Mr. Pierce as much as one would suppose. He did not relish the idea of other people learning of the affliction of his cousin, and he frequently cautioned him to let that Klondyke story alone. 132 KLOyUYKE FACTS. Souu after the arrival of Leavenworth at the hotel, C'oliu Mcintosh, of Tacoma, Washington, arrived in town, ^fcliitosh was Leavenworth's boon companion during his I rip llirough Alaska, and he corroborated Leavenworth's story regarding the richness of the Yukon Valley. The nien were on their way back from New York to Seattle from where they were to take the first steamer to leave for the gold fields. While at the hotel in this city they ex- hil»ited small quautities of gold-dust and several small luiggels. 'IMicy seemed to have money to burn, and they spent it Ireely. All these things finally convinced Leaven- worth's friends that he was not daft. William Kolju, a Finlunder. has arrived home after an absence of 18 months, bringing with him ll'TjOOO in gold nuggets from the Klondyke. In P'ebruary last he was on the verge of starvaticm and had no money to buy food. A .-hort time after this his fortune brightened. He struck pay dirt and began taking it out and packing his sluice boxes. This required arduous labor, as the pay ground lay on the bedrock beneath the frozen soil. In ^lay the water came in torrents. Mr. Kolju began sluicing his dirt and met with success. He at once set a|>()ut cleaning up as much of liis dirt as possible, taking out a little more than ^K,000 in gold dust, which he brought home with him. lie sold his claim for $20,000. Prof. Lippy, formerly secretary of the Y. M. C. A, at Seattle, returned from the Klondyke with IG7,000 in gold dust, and also J. 0. Hestwood, of Seattle, brought out over #7,000. Quite a number of California people had sums ranging from $5,000 to 150,000. More news of rich finds was brought into San Francisco, KLONDYEE FACTS. 133 by the steamer Walla Walla, on July 31. Several miners returned on the AValla Walla, one of them with a bag of Klondyke nuggets. Beside this gold, the steamer brought about 150,000 from the famous Treadwell mine on Doug- lass Island, and about 130,000 from the mines of the Nowell Grold Mining Company on Derner's Bay. Another rich strike on a branch of the Klondyke is re- ported by Harry Fitzgerald, who came direct from Juneau. lie says that the last mail-carrier from Dawson brought news that an immense strike had been made by Curley Monroe, a Seattle man. The exact amount of gold taken out was unknown. Fitzgerald brings the news that hundreds of tons of supplies are stacked wp at Dyea waiting to be carried over the pass. It will be impossible, he says, to move all the goods before spring. Juneau is deserted. Everybody has gone to the Yukon, and the quartz mines cannot get enough men to run their mills. Wages are ^2.50 to 13 per day with board, but only fifty or sixty men are working at Treadwell, where three hundred were working six months ago. The most interesting feature of the mail advices that come from the Klondyke will be the details of the mining strikes made on Stewart and Pellj'' rivers this summer. Several times since the arrival of the Klondyke miners with their nuggets from Bonanza and Eldorado creeks, stories have been afloat of still richer fields on Stewart Creek and other creeks further east. None of tlie returned Klondykers were able to give information on the subject. Many have mined with limited success on Stewart. Pelly and other rivers before striking rich dirt on the Klondyke tributaries. The only hint of what has been found, comes through Surveyor Ogilvie in the following news from Ottawa, re- 134 KLONDYKE FACTS. ceived at Victoria, B. C. : " While the Government officials are extremely reticent as to the latest advices from Surveyor Ogilvie and Inspector Constantine, the fact has leaked out that those officials have assured their depart- ments tluit scores of miners are deserting the Klondyke for a richer district further east, believed to be Stewart river, where it is said still more wonderful deposits have been discovered this spring." Pelly River is about par- allel with Stewart River and outers the Yukon about forty miles higher up. Botli rivers are on the right or east bank of the Yukon, and are east of Dawson City. The Pelly has also been prosi:»ected by some Klondykers with little if any success, but this is no proof that other pros- pectors have not been more fortunate. One miner who has been in the country eight or ten years told me that the experienced miners about Circle City had sunk their shafts and followed what was supposed to be an infallil)le rule in placer mining, viz. : that when they struck the clay they abandoned their claims, consider- ing them to be valueless, while, as he expressed it, these tenderfeet went into the Klondyke, and not knowing enough to stop digging, dug right through the clay, under which were the richest strikes. He and his companions have returned to their old diggings to work througli the clay, hoping to find the same condition as at the Klondyke. There has been found at the Klondyke what is called a false bedrock. It would appear that in the glacial action the gold was deposited on true bedrock and subsequently by either volcanic action or extraordinary glacial action, what appeared to be another bedrock Avas deposited on top of this gold deiJosit, and parties who have gone through this false bedrock have found rich pay streaks between it and true bedrock. It is reported by parties Avho brought down large KLOXDYKE FACTS. 135 amounts on the Portland that there are two million dollars in dust now in the country which will be brought out by the owners when they have occasion to come out. The security of possession of the gold dust there is absolute, and unless the persons are coming out they feel they are per- fectly secure in its possession. Only such come at this season of the year — at which the most work is being done — as have to get more provisions or materials ; or those who have struck extraordinarily rich claims and have left friends or relatives in possession to work the claims Avhile they come down with the dust they have, and to make provi- sion for their friends and relatives here. That the country is marvellously rich in gold there can he no doubt, and if the steamei's from the north via St. ^Michael or Dyea will on their trips in August and Sept- ember confirm the stories of the miners who come out from there and bring out gold in the quantities it is expected they will, I estimate there will be no less than 50,000 people exclusive of excursionists going into Alaska next spring or the early summer. A FEMALE GOLD HUNTER. Pauline Kellogg, the daughter of Judge Kellogg, an old miner of Colorado, who now lives here, is about to start for the Klondyke to engage in mining on her own account. She was born at Breckinridge, Col., and lived all during her youth in an atmosphere of mining speculation. Al- though young and delicate, she is determined to brave the hardships of camp life on the Yukon, and is only waiting till she can start with some friends. She says : " I am not going to look on there. I shall take up a claim, hire help, and superintend the work myself. Of course, I know it is a life of hardship. I can remember some of the things we used to go through in the cabin at Breckinridge when the country was new. There is an 136 KLONDYKE FACTS. element of clanger in it, bnt I feel able to take care of my- self. I have known of women in Colorado who did just this thing, and grew rich. My expectations are moderate, but I do not see why I could not do the same," *' It is stated on good authority that one claim yielded $90,000 in 45 feet up and down the stream. Clarence Berry bought out his two partners, paying one $35,000 and the other 160,000, and has taken up $140,000 from the winter dump alone. Peter "Wiborg has purchased more ground. He purchased his partner's interest in a claim, paying $42,000. A man by the name of "Wall has all he thinks he wants, and is coming out. He sold his interests for $50,000. Nearly all the gold is found in the creek bed on the bed rock, but there are a few good bench diggings. Perhaps the most interesting reading in the Mining Record is the letters A\ritten by men in the Klondyke to friends in Juneau. Here is one from " Casey " Moran : Dawson, March 20. 1897. ''Friend George : Don't pay any attention to what any one says, but come in at your earliest opportunity. My God ! it is appalling to hear the truth, but nevertheless the world has never jiroduced its equal before. Well, come. That's all. Your friend, " Casey." Burt Shuler, writing fi-om Klondyke under date of June 5, says : "We have been here but a short time and we all have money. Provisions are much higher than they were two years ago and clothing is clean out of sight. One of the A. C. Co.'s boats was lost in the spring, and there will be KLOXDYKF. FACTS. ia7 a shortage of provisions again tliis fall. There is nothing that a man could eat or wear that he cannot get a good price for. First-class rubber boots ai-o worth from an ounce to $25 a pair. Tbe price of flour has been raised from $4 to $6 and it was selling at $50 when we arrived, as it was being freighted from Forty Mile. Big money can be made by bringing a small outfit over the trail this fall. Wages have been $15 per day all winter, though a reduction to $10 Avas attempted, but the miners quit work. . . . Here is a creek that is eighteen miles long, and, as far as is known, without a miss. There are not enough men in the country to-day to work the claims. Several other creeks show equal promise, but very little work has been done on the latter. I have seen gold dust until it seems almost as cheap as sawdust. If you are coming in, come prepared to stay two years at least ; bring plenty of clothing and gooil rubber boots." Here is a letter from another enthusiast : Kloxdyke, May 27, 1897. " Friexd Bill : We landed here the ITth and went on a stampede the next day. and have just got back. I I came through the camp and saw a good many friends ; I saw Burt ; he has a claim on Bonanza Creek. Billy Leake has bought a claim on Fildorado ; the claim is sup- posed to be worth a million. There are thirty-four claims on the same creek which seem to be as good. Bonanza is good, but not so rich. There are 100 claims on Bonanza which are good, and there are other creeks which give good pay. Bill, it is the best camp T ever saw. Wages are $15 a day ; everything is high : gum boots are selling at $25. I look for a new strike this summer, as manv men 138 KLONDYKE FACTS. are out prospecting, and it is the best gold country I ever saw. I wish you were here ; we will make a stake if we stay with it ; I will have something before winter. If you come in this fall don't start after the 15tli of August ; one can make more here m one year than he can in ten out there. There will be work the year round ; wages may be cut to 110, but I don't think it ; I can go to work at any time, and for as long as I wish at 115. It will pay to bring anything here which can be carried in ; the demand is good and prices such that there is money in anything that can be brought in. Money will hardly buy claims here now, but men can often get in on a May.' I know men who took ' lays ' since Feb. 1, and made enough to go out with as high as 120,000 apiece. ''Andy Heksley." Oscar Ashby fears that gold will have to be demonetized, for he says in a letter dated May 18, from Circle City : "Hereafter address all letters to Klondyke, N. W. Ter- ritory. I would have stayed here in Alaska, but when I heard of McKinley's election I pulled my freight, for I knew that meant gold. I tell you one thing, if they find a few more Eldorado and Bonanza creeks, they will have to demonetize gold. Some of the kings here are hurrying out to spend their money before that is done. However, I am going to take chances on mine." Another letter says : " Circle City is deserted, every one having gone to Klon- dyke, where the richest strike of the kind ever known in any country was made last fall. The stories told are not exaggerated. One hundred dollars to the ©an is very KLONDYKE FACTS. 139 common. One can hard!}- boliovc it, l)nt it is true, never- theless. " Eldorado is staked off into claims for eight or ten miles, and every claim so far has shown up big. One claim was sold for 8100,000 three days ago. Bonanza is good also, and two or three other gulches close by show up well. Every camp in the Yukon Valley is deserted for Klondykc. Wages there are $15, while $12 is the prevail- ing rate lierc. Xo one wants to work for Avages, but all are prospecting. This is undoubtedly the best poor man's country in the world to-day. A very hard country to live in on account of the mosquitoes and poor grub, but healthy and a show to make a ten-strike. We heard that McCul- lough, formerly of the Juneiui Hotel, had been drowned while shooting the White Horse Rapids ; don't know whether there is any truth in it, as he Avas behind us. A number of parties were swamped and lost their outfits, but escaped with their lives. The triji is anything but one of pleasure, as you will find if you ever make it. '' Fred Brewster Fay.'' S80,000 IN NINETY DAYS. San Franc iscn, July 24. William Stalley, his son, F. Phiscater and C. Worden, all of whom left Seattle for the mines less than a year ago, have returned. From their claims they took out gold worth more than ^80,000 in ninety days, and believe they have only just begun their work. They intend to return in March. I know that the above report is correct and the work was done on claims numbers 25 and 2G each of 500 feet. 140 KLONDYKE FACTS. Mr. Misner writes : •' We reached Dawson about 3 o'clock in the morning, and found one of the liveliest mining- camps I ever saw. There are about four thousand people here, and saloons, dance-halls and restaurants never close. The gambling tables are always crowded, and thousands of dollars change hands in a remarkably short time. Men who this time last year did not have a dollar now count their wealth by thousands. Nearly everybody has a sack of gold with him as big as a policeman's club. The sun sinks out of sight noAv about 10.30 p. m. and comes up about 3 a. m. At midnight, however, it is almost as light as noonday. There is no night. At Dawson there is a little saw'mill, and rough houses are going up in all directions, but for the most part it is a city of tents. On the shore of the river are hi^ndreds of boats, and others are getting in every day. Klondyke has not been one particle overrated. I have seen gold measured out by the bucketful. Just think of a man taking $700 out of one pan of dirt. Mrs. Wilson, wife of the Alaska Commercial Company's agent, panned $154 out of a single pan in one of the mines I am to take charge of. This is Avithout doubt the richest gold strike the world has ever known. With all the new men in tlie country many miles of ncAV grounds will be prospected, and from the lay of the land I think other gold fields are certain to be located. Of course every foot of rich ground has an owner, so the newcomers have to depend on new strikes. Every day rumors of new discoveries reach here, which at once start stampedes, and hundreds rush out to stake claims. Wi}nti/H'f/. u)fa)i., July 28. Commissioner Herchmer, of tlie Xorth-West Mounted KLOXDYKE FACTS. 141 Police, Regina, is hero on liis way to Ottawa to make arrangements for a fresli contingent of police that will leave for the Yukon early in the autumn, lie strongly urges no one to go this year, but wait till ]March next at least. He has gathered much useful information from Inspector Strickland. The latter thinks everything of the country, and is so anxious to get back that he has volunteered to take the autumn force. Tiie Commissioner says that al- ready the police are building new posts at Dawson City and Stewart River, no light work, when it is pointed out that they preferred pulling down some buildings forty miles away to hunting for sufficient logs for their purpose. The wealth realized is sometliing fabulous, Strickland declared, though the men will not say where they made it and liow much it amounts to. One man in tlie force sold out his half share in a claim for $40,000. Sergt. Telford who is passing through this week on his way to the East for two or three months, where he will visit the principal cities, and then will leave for Ireland, is said to have struck it rich, though the figures are not given. Tacoma. WasI/., July 24. Warren Shea, of New Whatcom, one of the lower Puget Sound towns, sends the most marvellous news yet received from the Klondyke. Shea writes to his brother, S. S. Shea, of New AVhatcom, that the new boat that comes back from the Klondyke country will bring gold out in fish barrels holding about twenty-two gallons each. '■"Two days after the last boat left," Miner Shea writes, '• one of the stores was closed for the purpose of utilizing it as a warehouse for shipping gold dust and nuggets. So great was the quantity of gold offered for shipment that it was decided to ship it in barrels." 142 KLONBYKE FACTS. Shea describes the scene as most interesting. The miners gathered about and speculated on the actual value of their jars, cans and sacks of gold and told what they would do with their money when they got back to civilization. Many gambled and spent their money lavishly for trinkets and trifles, paying $10 for a pipe that could be purchased in any tobacco store in this country for less than 25 cents. Rosshnd, B. C, July 27. The Miner publishes to-day a long letter from Hart Ilumber to Charlie Collins, of Rossland. Humber left Itossland for Klondyke last March, on receipt of first news of discoveries there. His letter deals with all phases of life at the mines. It is dated Dawson City, June 18, and among other things says : "Our trip from Dyea was full of hairbreadth escapes, and took seventy-five days. I arrived here June 9, and started work at wages of 11.50 per hour. After two or three weeks' work with jiick and shovel, same outfit will give me a job at an ounce per day. Gold dust fetches $17 per ounce here. There are at least fifty men going out to-morrow. They all arrived here broke, and are taking out from $10,000 to $100,000 each. At this season of the year the best time to travel is at night, as it is cooler and as light as day. The thermometer was 82 in the shade to-day. Mosquitoes are awful. There is more money spent at gambling and for whisky here in night than in Koss- land in a month. There are more Avays of making money here than any place I ever saw : drinks 50 cents ; hair-cut $1 ; shave 50 cents. Packing to mine costs 25 cents per pound. This is the richest placer camp I ever struck. The mines are fifteen miles from Dawson City. One Montana man took out $90,000 from 45 square feet, and another $100,000 from 85 square feet. Dozens of others here have KL OND YKE FA CTS. 143 done nearly as well. Old-timers expect to strike new dig- gings just as rich this winter." MR. DRUMMOND S WAD. Il((iiipf()ii, Conn., July ;)1. One of the first persons to return to New England. IVom a successful trij) to the xMaskagoldlields is J. J. Drumniond, of this ])la(!e. Mr. Drutiimoud brought with him a clu'((ue for |5,00U for gold he carried to San Francisco after about a month of active woidc in tiie mines. He left a claim valued at lloOjOOO in the Yukon region, whicli he was forced to leave on aecujunt of lack of provisions. He says that the ouly way the richness of the gold terri- tory became known to the i)ublic was through this lack of food. The country has been filled Avith miners for many months, and they would have stayed in the gold region aiul kept the rich finds a secret if they had been able. But on returning to the settlements for provisions they found the stores emptied and were forced to come to the States. They, therefore, returned to their homes for the winter, and spread the stories of fabulous finds which have set so many men starting for Klondyke. In the spring Mr, Drummond will go back to woi'k his claim, and will prob- ably be accompanied by his brother in-law. ran confer, B. C, July 28. W. J. Sloan has returned from Klondyke. He was fornun-ly a dry goods clerk, making a small stipend in Wilson's store. He went away a year ago and returns with 150,000 in gold nuggets, washed from the sand on Bonanza Creek. He is the lion of the hour and is constantly sur- 144 KLONDYEE FACTS. rounded by crowds attracted by the huge nuggets he car- ries in his pockets. Mr. Sloan says transportation facilities are bad. He ad- vises the British Columbia merchants to band together and get a foothold on the trade, which is diverted to the States. Now is not the time to start, he says, March is the best month. The route by Telegraph Bay to the Skeena is the best route for Canadians. There are no rajiids or canons as in the White Horse Pass. There is no doubt about the value of the Klondyke diggings, but whether they are the only ones is hard to say. There are four miles of them all taken up. They average from $300 to $2,000 per foot. Mr. Sloan's partner was the first to get a bucket down. In three bucketfuls they panned 190. It is a dreary coun- try to winter in. There are hundreds that have not made it pay ; but very big Avages can be secured, an ounce a day. Any man can get work. Dawson City is at tlie junction of the Yukon and Klon- dyke Rivers. The former river is immense and puts the Fraser to shame. Tlioreare 3,000 inhabitants. The town sprang into existence three mouths ago, but there are already 100 saloous. The Mounted Police keep perfect order as is seen in all Canadian miniug camps. Last winter the supply of provisions was so scarce that flour rose to 160 per sack. Gold dust and nuggets are the only medium of exchange. A MOUNTAIN FULL OF GOLD. Santa Rosa, (JaL, July 31. Professor Otto Fried Debendeleben declares that there is a mountain of gold iu Alaska, situated at G5 degrees, 2'^ minutes and 11 seconds north latitude, and 172 west Ion- KLOyUYKE FACTS. 145 gitudc. The mountain is called Mount Debendeleben. in lienor of tlie {)rofessor, and was named by Professor Geo. Davidson. It was in lyGft, while he was a member of the famous Western Union Telegraph Hu.ssian extension expedition that Professor Debendeleben lirst saw the mountain. It is the highest peak in all that region, he says, and is full of gold. >[any scientists have btHii df tlu- ojanioii that all the gold that crops out on t!iis coast came sonic time from a great deposit in the nortli, ami the ju-ofessor thinks that mighty floods that moved everytliing before them carried the golden particles from the mother lode to lields further south. It was Professor Debendeleben who })repared the report on the resources of Alaska, that went to Secretary of State Seward which Mr. Seward declared !<• be one of the most comprehensive docuntents of its clKiracter ever compiled. It was on this report that the Secretary princi})ally relied when urging the purchase of Alaska from Russia by the United States. Wasliiiitituii. July 31. Moi"e news about big strikes in tlu- Klondyke was re- ceived to-day by Capt. ('. F. Shoemaker, chief of the revenue cutter service, in a report from Capt. E. L. Hooper, commanding the lichring Sea patrol fleet. Capt. Hooper sent some interesting infornuition about the gold discoveries recently, which was ])rinted in the Star. His report is dated Unalaska, July 10. This is what he has to say about the Klondyke excitement : " The North American Trading and Transportation Company's steamer Portland arrived on the 7th from St> lO 146 KLONJJYKE FACTS. Michael with about fifty miners from the Yiikmi as jias- sengers. Those men Avere from tlie new mines referred to in my last report, and, like those who arrived on the Excelsior, all have gold in sums varying from Is, ()(»() or #10,000 to over ii!?150,000. In the aggregate the Porthind had nearly the same amount as was brought by the Excel- sior, about half a million. All this and much more that has not been brought down has been taken out of the mines since their discovery last August. " One man, a Mr. Berre, of California, who last 8ep- temljer was in debt for liis outfit, took out over 1150,000 wliik^ merely prospecting claim No. 40 on Bonanza Creek, which he had staked out. With part of this gold he bought an interest in three other claims, which promise to be as rich as the first one. F. Phiscatei', who previous to his staking out claim No. 2 on the Eldorado, was a , waiter on one of the river steamers, took out $90,000 while merely prospecting his claim, the whole of which is estimated to be worth over a million dollars. Many similar cases are reported, which indicate that the new mining region is the richest yet discovered on this continent. Of course, all this will attract a great many men, and as the means of getting provisions to the mines are l>ut little better than last year, when with only two thousand men to provide for food was scarce and high, it .Avill probably result in want." PROSPEROUS IX 188G. In 188G few of the men in Forty Mile Creek were content Avith ground yielding less than ^\-i a day, and several of them reported to the envoys of the Canadian Government that several had taken out nearly $100 a day for a short time. With the fcAV men at work and their exceedingly KLOXBYKE FACTS. 147 limited f:icilitics this little streum in 1S87 gave up aljuiit '1^1. 50,000 ill gold. At this time the total number of miners in the entire territory of the Upper Yukon was less than two hundred and fifty and none of them wintered there. SCHOOL TEACHER IN LUCK. Scot Francisco, July 31. The latest arrival from the Klondyke is Albert D. Gray formerly a school teacher in Grand Rapids, Mich. Mr. Gray got here, bringing $30,000 in nuggets. He says he is the first man who went to Dawson by the Stikine Eiver route. lie j^i'edicts tlmt this Avill soon be the favorite route to the gold diggings. He says that the entire Northwest is interested in the report that the Canadian Government is contemplating the building of a railway from Telegraph Creek to Lake Teslin. From this lake to Dawson City there would be clear navigation if the rocks on the Yukon 200 miles above Dawson were blasted out. WHAT OXE 15KAVE WOMAX DID. Mrs. J. T. Wills, of this city, who says she went " through death " to seek Alaska gold, is a pioneer of the pioneers. She has pioneered it in New Mexico, Colorado and "Wash- ington. She is an Iowa woman, and reared three daughters in Missouri, where she married a num named i\Iercer. Eight years ago she struck Tacoma during the big Northwestern boom, and married J. T. Wills, a gun and lock smith. As the boom subsided it became too quiet in Washington for Mrs. Wills, and she journeyed to Alaska. She was the pioneer woman gold-hunter of that section. 148 KLOShyXE FACTS. At lirst she baked hread and t'oiidiu'ied a laiiudiT at Circle City. Her stove Avould bake only two loaves at a time, but at $1 jaer loaf she managed to net ll-i per day. She also did plain sewiu';- for the miners, and introduced the fii*st starched shirt into the El Dorado of the far north. When the word came down the Yukon that there was fabulously rich pay " dirt '' on the Klondyke, Mrs. Wills joined the stampede. She went in with a party of cattle- men. The trip was rough and exciting, but Mrs. Wills did not complain, and was not a burden to the men who led the spurt for the new diggings. On a former occasion, however, she did not fare so well. On the way into tlie nnnes she became \evy sick, and for four days it was feared she would die. She Avas tlie only woman in a pnvty of 1-10 rough miners from all parts of the world. The miners did not tliink of leaving her behind while life remained, but, as one of them said on returning here last spring. " Tf she had died we would have made a coffin of her blanket and dropped her into a crevice in the ice, and pushed for wai'd as if nothing iiad hapjiened." When Mrs. Wills reached Dawson City she made a da^h with the best of the men for a, claim. But as the value of the surrounding claims came to l)c worth $"25,000 to $100,000, claim-jumping began, ami Mi-s. Wills had to fight like a will-breaker for her pi-operty. It is valued at at least *-2-">0,000. While holding on to her chiim Mi-s. Wills spends her leisure moments earning 115 per day as head cook for the Alaska-Commercial Company, at Dawson City. A UONDEKFUL TALE. Captain Harry Meggs. United States army (retired), tella a wondc^rful tale of the discovery of gold in Alaska in KLONDYKE FACTS. 149 the latter part of the sixties. He was ou duty in that country at that time at a point near Juneau. He says that even in those early days great lumps of gold were exhibited by natives. "Often natives from the interior would come down A\earing necklaces made of nuggets picked up from creeks in the interior/' he said : "At one time there was a tribe which liad been conquered by another, and a penalty was exacted. Some of the conquered tribe came over Chilkoot I'ass with a certain amount of gold, which, on being Aveighed, was found to be short of the price demanded by the con(|uerors. Several chiefs Avere held as hostages, while the renuiindcr of the tribe was directed to cross the moun- tains and procure enough to liberate them. They were gone several months, and when they came back an amount mor(^ than needed to pay tlie ransom was brought in. No one could ascertain whence the gold came, but from the din>cl ion in which tliey went and the length of time tliey occupied in nuiking the trip it was believed that they went many miles inland. " I believe tliat these men went into the passes of the Klondyke country and picked up l)y the crude means at their command the gold needed to complete the ransom. It was a topic of discussion among those who were detailed on duty at that time, and many plans were laid to procure infornuition as to the location of the gold, but the natives kept the matter secret and Avould never disclose whence they derived their treasure." 150 KLONDIKE FACTS. CHAPTER XIII. K L N D Y K E FACTS. Klondyke ! Kloud^^ke, the name that has hecome famous throughout the world and which was not heard of two short manths ago, is taken from the Indian name "^ Thron-Diuck," which means " River with plenty of fish." People in the region, however, do not use the name Klon- dyke, as used in the East. (rold was first discovered in the Klondyke region by a man named Henderson, August 24tli, '96. Prior to that there was no civilization there whatever. It was on August 24, when Henderson, who had been prospecting for four years in Indian Creek, a tributary of the Yukon, found himself in another little stream bed known as Gold Bottom, near the Yukon, the high water having driven him out of Indian Creek.' He was prospect- ing around, hoping to find something as good as the ground seemed to contain. After a time he panned out a little gold and put in a sluice box or two. In a very short time he ran out of supplies and went back to Fort Ogilvie, where I was stationed, and reported the find to me. I lost no time getting myself in readiness to proceed to the spot at once, and by August 28, I had two men and four horses in Gold Bottom. In the meantime, Henderson drifted down the mouth of the Klondyke in a small boat. KLONDYKE FACTS. 151 uiul found George McCormack, an old friend of his, who was tisliing for sahnon. limiting \\p his friends when tiiere was anything in sight seemed to he one of Ilender- soiTs l)est traits. He got McCormack up to Gold Bottom, whore he located a claim, i^rospected around a while, and started back across country for the mouth of tiie Klondyko ifiver, a distance of twenty miles. That trip was destined to phi}^ an important part in the events which followed, for through it occurred one of tlu^ big finds. McCormack took with him two Chilkat In- dians, and the three men went off in the direction of Bo- nanza Creek, where the white man struck gravel that went 8-?. 50 to the pan. According to the mining laws in Cana- dian possessions, the discoverer can locate an extra claim for himself as a reward for making the find. So McCor- mack took up two locations and the Indians one each. They set to work at once and took out $120 in gold in three days with little less than a pan. Then they came down to Fort Ogilvie and reported the find. That report which was spread by ^McCormack, had the immediate effect of sending a thrill of excitement along the Yukon, from the headwaters down to Forty W\\e and Circle City. As though by magic, the trails were sprinkled with pack mules, and the river was dotted with small craft coming up or going down to the new diggings, as the case may be. In less than ten days there were about 150 miners at work on new claims. Strangely enough, and as if by some great good fortune, I had come down the river about the same time McCormack left Gold Bottom, and had picked out a tov/n site where Dawson City now stands, a little more than a mile from the Bonanza Creek claims. In this respect I was very for- tunate, as it now stands in the midst of what is called Bonanza Gold Mining District, and all claims are so record- 152 KL ONI) YKE FA (JTS. ed. As a matter of fact thei-e is no other suitable place for a toAvn site, and I consider myself lucky in getting hold of it. I commenced erecting the first house in that region on September 1st, 1896, Within six months from that date there were over five hundred houses erected, Avhich in- cluded stores, supply stations, hotels, restaurants, saloons, and residences. The place immediately l)ccame a bee-hive of vigorous industry, and the minor can detain anything he requires at Dawson City. I hold 1 78 acres, while the remaining twenty-two are the property of the (Jovernment. The Yukon at that point is (lOO yards across and about thirty-five fathoms deep, with natural advantages for pro- tection of craft. Dawson City is just below the month of the Klondyke Eiver. I named it after Dr. Dawson, who es- tablished the bonndary line that is now recognized as the correct line dividing Alaska from the Noi'thwest Terri- tory. It runs due north from i\fount St. Elias to Point Demarcation to the 141st meridian. That, of course, cuts all the present location with the exception of those at Forty Mile out of United States possessions. There is no cause for dispute on that score at all. It is purely a Cana- dian section, and is under Canadian laws. Just as soon as the rush began at Bonanza Creek the miners called a meeting, and in order tluit the claims be relocated and made sure of, it was decided to measure them all off with a rope and reset the stakes that defined them. Somehow or other the men selected to make the measure- ments slid in a forty instead of a fifty foot rope, and thus nnide the claims from fifty to one hundred feet short in the total. In other words they were condensed, and the inter- vening ground was literally grabbed. This state of affairs incensed the miners so that when they made the discovery of how the measurements were conducted, they petitioned William Ogilvie. the Dominion Laud Surveyor, to come up KLOMti'Klil FA('TS. If,;} to lionanza Creek at onco and settle the complications that Avere arising. He re-surveyed the whole group of claims and the matter M'as then adjusted to the satisfaction of ;dl hands. It must be remembered that the total gold regions to-day do not extend over an area of 200 square miles froju DaAv - son City. There are good pay diggings at Circle City in Alaska. I know of at least twenty good claims there ; but the place has been practically deserted owing to the rush to Klon- dyke. Fort Cudahy or Forty Mile Creek is deserted. There will undoubtedly be new and vahuiblo diggings discovered next year in the Klondyke region Avhich will create emi- gration to various points at present unknown. Dr. W . H. J)all, of the National Museujn of Washing- ton, is no harebrained enthusiast and says he has spent much time in the Yukon Valley on geographical expedi- tions. He is a scientific expert. He has no axe to grind. He unhesitatingly accepts the reports that come from that portion of the Yukon N'mIIcv which lies just beyond the American boundary. He hns known Uw twenty years past that gold existed in the bed f)f the 'i'ukon IJiver, though, not in large enough f|u;intities to ni:ike milling very profi- table, and he has suspected that it existed in infinitely larger quantities in the various tributaries thnt empty into the great river. Tie holds that the Klondyke and the streams that feed it represent but a very snuiU portion of these gold yielding tributaries. In short, his opinion is that the gold-deposits exist over a length of five or six hun- dred miles. He scents no exaggeration in the reports thnt have come in so far from the comparatively snndl Kbni- dvke regions. 154 KLONDVKE FACTS. Everything points to the fact that the gorgeous times of 1849 are to be repeated on a more prodigious scale. Tlie folloAving re2)ort made hy Mr. Ogilvie in January, 189G, Avill he of interest to the intending prospector. CuDAHY, Sth January, 1896. I have the honor to transmit the following interim report of my operations since I came into this territory : — I have already sent out a short report from this place being fortunate enough to catch the boat here when I came down. In that report I made some remarks on the town sites in our territory ; since then I have learned nothing of importance in that connection, the most noteworthy fact being that gold bearing quartz has been found in Cone hill which stands mid- way in the valley of the Forty Mile River, a couple of miles above the jimction with the Yukon. The quantity in sight rivals that of the Treadwell mine on the coast, and the quality is better, so much so that it is thought it will pay well to work it even under the conditions existing here. Application has been made to purchase it, and an expert is now engaged in putting in a tunnel to test the extent. Indications in sight point to the conclusion that the whole hill is composed of this metalliferous rock. If the test corroborate this, a stamp mill will be erected next season, which will have an important bear- ing on the future of this country. If tliis venture succeeds, (as it doubtless will, for it is in the hands of parties who are able to push it) it will give permanent employment to a good many men, who with their families will form quite a community. Apart from tliis I cannot see very much of a chance for spec- ulation in buying or selling town sites ; and my opinion is confirmed by the present condition of Forty Mile, which now contains very few people, the great majority of the miners re- KLONDYKE FACTS. 155 niaining on their claims all winter, coming in only once or twice for supplies. Even in tlie case of the mine at Cone hill being worked, only a village would be formed around it. Outside of all such considerations, the present applicants for Forty Mile and Cudahy town sites have either directly or in- directly occupied the present sites for years and spent thou- sands of dollars improving and building on them. One house erected in Forty Mile last summer is said to have cost $10,000. it would cost between two and three thousand in Ottawa. These improvements cover so much ground that even if it were decidetl to lay out the town site and convey it in lots the ap- l)licants would have a claim to most of the ground they ask for. A couple of coal claims have been staked and applied for, which I will survey in the spring, and at the same time make an examination of the coal area w^here they are. I may anti- cipate this to a certain extent by saying that, a few days after I reported to you last fall, I went up Coal creek to search for this coal, to which I referred in my report of 1887 and 1888. 1 found it about 7 miles up the creek overlying a coarse sand- stone and under drift clay and gravel. The seam is 1 2 feet 6 inches thick. It seems to me to be a good quality of lignite. I have packed 30 to 40 pounds of the best specimens I found a few feet in, and will send them out to you in the spring, that a test may be made. That ex- ]iosure has now been staked and applied for to the agent here. I judge from the position of these coal claims that we have quite an area of coal here. Both exposures furnish, as far as external features show, the same character of coal, and are about the same level, so that it is fair to assume they are in the same 156 KLONDYKK FACTS. seam. I will make a search in the intervening distance to deter- mine this when I make a survey of the claims. Coal is reported in the drift on Chandindu, about 30 miles uj) the river from here, which would go to show that there is another area or a continuation of this one there. On my way down the river I saw the copper-bearing vein near Thron-Diuck Creek above Fort Reliance. It does not appear to be extensive, but there are several small veins in the vicinity, and it may l)e that a commercially valuable deposit may be found ; about 25 miles further down I found a small vein which indicates that this co]:)])er deposit is extensive. I found a small seam of rather j^oor asbestos a short distance from Cudahy, and as there is quite an extensive area of ser- pentine around here, asbestos may yet be found of commercial value. Very rich placer diggings are now being worked on the creeks flowing into Sixty Mile, part of which are sui)posed to be in Canada. I shall be able to say definitely when I produce the line that far where they are and how much we ha\e of them. Except in the vicinity of Forty Mile there a])pears to be nothing doing in the way of cpiartz ];rospecting. i^ast season good placer mines were found on the Hootalin- qua — Teslin of Dnwson — with coarse gold in them, and there will probably be a lot of claims worked there next season. Several miners were wintering there to commence operations early in the spring. A great deal of improvement has been introduced in the working of placer diggings, which has much increased the output. The miner instead of putting in the winter months in the towns and saloons remains on his claim all winter, cutting wood in the earlier months, with which he builds fires and thaws the frozen gravel, piling it up to be washed as soon .is the flow of water in the spring will permit. In this way the work is more than doubled, but as the sujdjjIv klJ>.\ DYKK FA (IS. i:,7 ot wood is ver}' limited except on the main river this cannot always be done. The timber fit for buildings and lumber is fast disappearing along the river, and in a few years there will be none left near here. There is a portable saw-mill at Fort Ogilvie — lOO miles above this — and one here, which yearly cut a good deal of lumber. Were all this utilized in Canada nothing might be said of it, but some of it goes down the river into American territory, in addition to which a good deal of wood and logs are cut on our side and floated into Alaska where it is sold. Some men make a business of this, and on this at least the department might collect dues. There is \ery little good tim- ber on the American side of the line, hence the demand for our timber. The police have so far made a very favorable impression, aud the general policy of the government in connection with this district is admired. It is probable the boundaries of the j'jolice jurisdiction mav h.ave to be extended in the near future, for a good deal of trading is done on the head waters of the river by parties who cross the summit of the coast passes with goods from Juneau. Also the miners on the head waters and on the Hootalinqua bring in their supplies from Jimeau. Now one of the traders here — Har])er — has a small steamboat named the " Beaver," which he got in last season for the express purpose of reaching the upper parts of the river and its affluents witli sui:)plies, and, having jiaid duty on all his foreign goods, expects to be pro- 1 58 KLOND YKE FA CTS. tected against smuggled goods. Should the Hootalinqua turn out as expected and promised, a police force will be required there. Harper will try hard to get up with supplies to it and Teslin Lake. I fancy he can lay down most things there as cheaply as they can be brought over the pass. It costs $14 to if! 1 5 — sometimes more — per 100 pounds to transport from Taiya to the lakes, which makes flour cost ^16 to ^17, per hundred at the lake, while it costs or is sold here for $S. Things here are sold so low now that were I ever coming in from the Paci- fic again I would bring nothing in quantity but bacon, on which I might save a dollar or two a hundred, it being sold here for ^30 to ^35 per hundred. * * * * I have produced the boundary line about five miles north of where it crosses the Yukon River, which is as far as I thought needful at present. I have also produced it about 7 miles south, and about the end of February will resume work and run it as far as Sixty Mile River. In connection with this I have occupied six photograph stations and developed all the plates exposed which have turned out satisfactorily. I have made a cross section measurement of the Yukon River where the boundary crosses it. In the vicinity of the river I have opened out a wide line in the woods which will remain visible for several years, but I erected nothing permanent on it. Up to date our lowest temperature has been 6;^° below zero. The winter has been unusually windy. Coming up here we had KLOMJYKE FACTS. 159 to face a strong wind when 52° below zero, and frozen faces and noses where the rule of the day. CuDAHY, loth June, 1896. I submit the following interim report of iiiy operations in the Yukon District up to date. After my return there was some fine clear weather in January, but it was exceedingly cold, more than 60" below zero, one night 68°5 ; and as I had both my ears pretty badly frozen and could not go out in such cold without having them covered, so that I could not hear the chronometer beat, I could not observe until the end of the month when we had tAvofine nights — 29th and 30th — mild enough for me to work. Having reduced all my observations, and the da) s having attained a reasonable length, I went into camp on the line on the 20th February, resuming work on the 22nd. But as the hill tops are all bare and from two to three thousand feet above the river we lost many days through the fierce winds. Our progress was necessarily slow for this reason and also from the fact that I photogi-aphed from several stations, which took some time. As there were no important creeks between the Yukon and Forty Mile Rivers I did not cut the line out continuously, but left it so that any one wishing to can place himself on or very near to the line. The distance from the Yukon to Forty Mile River is a little over tAventy-fi\e miles. IGO KLONBYEE FACTS. In the valleys along the line the timber was thick, with much underbrush, but very Utile of it is of much value. Curiously enough tlie line kept generally in the valleys or on the sides of them, and very little of it was in the open. Going from point to point we had to follow as much as possible the hill tops and ridges. I reached f'orty Mile River with this survey on the 13th March. From this point southwards there are many streams cut by the line, all of which are more or less gold- bearing and all have been more or less prospected. This ne- cessitated my cutting the line out continuously from P'orty Mile River onwards, which increased our work very much. The valleys traversed are generally upwards of 1,000 feet deep and often very steep, so that the work was exceedingly laborious. Transporting our outfit from cam]) to camp was often a very hard task as the hills were so steep ever\'thing had to be packed up them, which in the deep soft snow was anything but easy. I reached a point within two miles of Sixty Mile River on the 14th April, and as 1 had ]^assed all the creeks of any note, and many of them were already running water and our way lay down them, I thought it well to quit work on the line and re- turn to Forty Mile and Cudahy, and attend to the local sun^eys there. The weather was line and warm, and so much water ran in tlie creeks by which we had to return that we could only travel a few hours in the early morning and forenoon. Had the season been more favorable I would have ^ isited (llacier and Miller Creeks which were generally supposed to be in Alaska, but are found to run in Canada for some distance. They are the two richest creeks yet found on the Yukon and are both tributaries of Sixty Mile River. Both creeks are fully located and worked, each claim being 500 feet along the creek and the width of the valley or creek bed. There are nearly 100 claims, all of which pay well. One on Miller Creek I understand will yield 75 to 80 thousand dollars this season, KLOyDYKK FACTS. 161 and the owner will net, it is said, between 40 and 50 thousand dollars. He took out, it is reported, nearly half that sum last year off the same claim, and expects to do equally well next year. This is much the richest claim yet found, but all on those creeks do well. There are many other creeks in this vicinity yet to be prospected and some will, I have no doubt, pay well. Gold is found all along the valley of Sixty Mile River, and under more favorable conditions, both mercantile and climatic, it would yield good results to large enterprises, liie mercantile conditions will improve ; the climate is a serious ditificulty but will be surmounted in time, I believe. Along the last 10 or 12 miles of the line I nin, the mountains consist principally of quartz and schists, which no doubt originally held the gold found in the valleys and doubtless hold some yet. Several men have taken to quartz prospecting, and from indi- cations which I will dwell on later I believe we are on the eve of some magnificent discoveries. The miners on all the creeks referred to have quietly ac- ce])ted my line as the boundary //7> /rw, and as far as I can learn at present the general feeling is satisfaction that one can now know where he is. Even if the line is not final, no one doubts its being very near the final position. As far as run it is marked by cairns of stones wherever it was possible to ])ro- cure them with reasonable time and labor, and is cut through the woods and blazed so that no one who wants to find it can mistake it. Another source of satisfaction to all is that they now know distances and directions. Many miners remark to me, "We now know how we are going, we can see where south is." In this high latitude in the summer months it is impossi- ble to tell when the sun is near the meridian because its change in altitude is so little for 8 or 9 hours, consequently any point between east and west was called somewhere near south. This helps to explain much of the variance in the direction of points II 162 KLONDYKE FACTS. as given by miners and others who have no compass or are unacquainted with the use of one and the apphcation of the declination. On my arrival at Cudahy I rented two cabins from the N. A. T. & T. Co., to house my men and self as I would be around here probably until I started up the river. I did this because there are no convenient camping places in the vicinity, and in the spring all the flats are like lakes along the river until well into the month of June. After a couple of days' rest for the party, who had worked very hard, and after I had developed all my photographs, I began to attend to the local surveys, first surveying the coal claims on Coal Creek and making a chain traverse survey of the creek from the claims down to the Yukon. I next made a survey of the Cone hill quartz mining claim and a chain traverse survey of Forty Mile River from the claim down to the Yukon. I then went to work on the Forty Mile town site and Cudahy town site. The last I was asked to block out, which I have done. The manager, Mr. C. H. Ham- ilton, objected to streets 66 feet wide on such a small plot of ground (tliere is only about 50 acres). I read him my in- structions and wrote him an ofificial letter on the subject, but he insisted on streets only 50 feet wide and assumed all res- ponsibility, so I did as he desired. I made him a plot of the work done on the ground, and he understands that he will have to pay the department for the senice rendered in blocking as well as the original survey, and wishes a plan of it, which of course can only be prepared when I go out. I made a complete survey of Forty Mile, locating and tak- ing the dimensions of every house in it, and it is the worst KLONDYKE FACTS. 163 jumble I ever saw. I had to do this though it entailed a great (leal of work, for there were so many claim holders, and there appeared to l)e a general distrust in the vicinity ; every man wants himself on record in evidence as to his claim. I have taken some, but I have several days' work yet. I made a sur- vey of the island for the Anglican mission, and of another island for a man named Gibson. This is in the delta of Forty Mile Creek, and he intends to make a market garden for the growth of such vegetables as the country will produce. In my final report I will deal as fully as my experience here will per- mit on that phase of the country's character. Many here have small gardens and are fairly successful with ordinary vegetables. I have advised many to correspond with the experimental farm at Ottawa, with a view to learning the best sort of \'egetables for growth in this climate. There is an application in, and the purchase money and cost of survey paid, for 80 acres just west of Cudahy town site, which I will survey in a few days. There is also an application in for 40 acres containing a hay swamp on the east side of the river, about 2 miles below here, which I will stirvey before starting out. There are many other appli- cations in, but I shall not have time to attend to them, nor have the i)arties asked for a survey. I think these ap])lications are simply intended to hold the ground until the future of this region is forecasted ; it certainly looks promising now. I would respectfully call the attention of the department to the fact that the ser\'ices of a surveyor are urgently needed in here and will be for some years to come, and I would suggest that one be appointed to look after and take charge of all the land interests in this district. He will find ])lenty to do, and any work outside of departmental which he might be asked to do (and there is much of it, and will be more in the way of engineering) would help materially to pay his salary which would of course in here have to be liberal. 164 KLONDYKE FACTS. I have had several apphcations for engineering surveys, and I have told the parties I can only make these as an officer of the department, with whom they will have to settle on the basis of the time it took and the cost per day of the party and myself, should I undertake any of it, which is more than doubt- ful. Any surveyor so appointed will require experience in the taking of evidence and vvill need to be patient and attentive, for it is extremely difficult to make some of the people here understand what the)' want to know. Another incon\ enience is the want of a trade medium ; there is very little coin, nearly all business being transacted in gold dust, which passes current at $17 per ounce troy*, but, as most of it will not assay that, there is some hardship to those taking it out, though there may be no actual loss. If enough money were sent in to pay the North-west mounted police for some time it would help for a period at least, and would emphasize the exist- ence of Canada. What coin and bills are here are largely American. Another important question is the treatment of the liquor business, which cannot be ignored much longer ; there are several saloons in Forty Mile and one in Cudahy, yet there is no law recognizing them nor regulating them in any way. It would be almost impossible and very unpopular were any at- tempt made to close them. Liquor could not be kept out of the country if the whole North-west mounted ])olice were scat- tered around the river. .\nother subject which I have mentioned before is that of the * The net value of the gold received by the department was found to be only $16.50 per ounce, gcents of which were silver. Deducting freight, insurance, mint charges and bank commission, the amount realized is re- duced to $i5-77- Inspector Constantine, N. W. M. I', quotes assays by ihe Ignited States office at Helena, Mont., of gold from eight creeks, ranging from $14.46 for thi' I'pper Lewes to $17.33 for Davis Creek. The average is $16.12. KLOyDYKE FACTS. 165 timber. Large quantities of timber are being and have been cut in our territory and floated down the river to American territory, where it is used, and Canada derives no benefit. Were it used to develo]) our country it would matter less ; in fact, I would encourage such use ; but to see the best of our timber taken out without any sort of benefit to the country is, 1 think, worthy of some sort of attention. There is very little useful timber in the country, and much of what does exist is cut into fuel, while more of it goes beyond the boundary. In the near future we shall feel the want of it. I have spoken to the agent about it, but he has no authority to act, and, if he hadj is disinclined to run u|) and down the river looking after it un- less he has a steamer. The merchants here who ])ay duty are naturally dissatisfied at the smuggling done on the u|)]icr ri\er and ask for some sort of jirotection. It might be advisable to have a s(]uad of police and an officer somewhere on the lake to look after that. I am thoroughly convinced that a road from the coast to some ]:)oint on the head waters of the river, preferably by the Taku if at all practicable, would convert all our ])art of the river into a hive of industry. It may be said there is no com])etition, and any way in the ])resent conditions of trade things cannot be sold very much cheaper at a fair ])rofit. Once let a railroad get from some point on the coast to some point on the river so that we can have quick, cheap, and certain entrance and exit, and the whole Yukon basin will be worked. At present the long haul makes the expense of mining machinery practically prohibitive, for the cost of transport is often more than the first cost of the machine. Assays of the Cone hill ([uartz are very satisfactory, and the r[uantity good for generations of work ; were it on the coast the Treadwell mine would l)e diminutive beside it. Five tons of rock are being sent out from it for a mill test, and should 166 KLONDYKE FACTS. they prove as satisfactory as the test of a ton sent out last year, I understand the parties owning it will proceed to develop it. If it starts and proves reasonably successful there are scores of other places in the country that may yield as well. An expert here who prospects for the N. A. T. & T. Co. found a ledge last spring on the Chandindu River of Schwatka (known as Twelve- mile Creek here) and located two full claims on it. He told me the assay he made of my specimens of it was much more satisfactory than that of Cone hill, and this ledge, he claims, is where a commencement should be made in quartz milling in this country and there would be no fear of the result. He ap- pears to be pretty well versed in mining lore, is a practical as- sayer — that is his profession — and he says he never saw or read of anything like it for extent in the world. He informed me there were extensive deposits of coal about 20 miles up the creek and this ledge was about 4 miles up. He has no doubt but that the copper around Fort Reliance will, with better facilities, yet be a valuable feature of the country. He showed me a lump of native copper some Indians said they found on the head of the AVhite River but could not or would not specify where. Speaking of White River reminds me that it and Sixty Mile are very close together in the vicinity of the boundary. I was told it was only a short walk from the creeks of one to the creeks of the other, but how far from stream to stream is un- certain. This expert is an American who has spent many years of his life in the best mining districts in the United States, and \\2 assures me this country promises better than any he ever sa\/ before, and as an evidence of his satisfaction with it he is going to spend the rest of his life here. Great anxiety is felt here about a mail route and regular mail. Last winter 3 mails left the coast, one by the Taku route, one by the White Pass, and one via Taiya ; the first two got here Kin X DYKE FAC'Tfi. 167 in good time, the last, (ours l)y the way) did not, nor is it hkely to arrive for some time — maybe never. The man in charge was badly frozen on the summit and had to turn back leaving the mail behind him and it is now probably buried in fathoms of snow. An Indian brought the mail in by the Taku and took the Slocan branch of it to Atlin lake. From what I learned of this route while up there it may be found to afford an easier way than by Teslin Lake but it has the disadvantage of landing on the head of the Lewes instead of the Hootalinqua or 'I'eslin and so takes in the canyon and White Horse Rapids. Last winter many of the residents and miners here talked to me about the mails and what the government intended in that direction ; of course I could tell them nothing. They made their views known by getting up a petition to the Minister of the Interior. The Alaska Commercial Company are putting a new and powerful steamer on the river, which will make four, the " Arc- tic," "Alice," and " Emma, large, and the " Bedon," small, there is some talk of the N. A. T. & T. Co., putting on a sister boat to the " Portus B. Weare." All are stern-wheel boats.* From my camera stations on the boundary I saw manv high mountains, some of them not less than 8,000 feet, and some I believe 10,000. Some of the prominent ones I have named after the pioneers of the country, notably one Mount Campbell after the late Mr. Robert Campbell of the H. B. Co., who es- tablished Fort Selkirk. It is about 60 miles due east of here and is a noteworthy peak in that it stands on top of an exten- sive well defined range, rising like a lofty pillar about 1,000 feet above the ridge. It is, far as seen, the most remarkable l)cak in the country. I have not made any computations yet, * The estimates submitted at the last session of Parliament contain an item of $5,000 for the purchase of a steamer for the Mounted Police in the Yukon District. 108 KLOXDYKE FACTS. but I do not think its summit is much if nny less thnn 10,000 feet above the sea. No one noticed it before for the reason that it is only about 600 feet wide, is always black, and very distant from points where it can be seen around here. CuDAHY, June 25 th, 1896. Horses could be laid down here for, I would say, about 1^250 per head, and the same animals ought to last the whole survey. Horses that have been in use here, packing to the mines in the summer and hauling wood in the winter for several years, are still serviceable, notwithstanding that they live only on the coarse grasses of the country. They pack 200 pounds apiece from Forty Miles River at the mouth of Moore Creek to the mines on Miller Creek (about 17 1-2 or 18 miles) and climb some very steep long hills on the way, taking 2 days with loads and one day without ; all they get to eat is what they find. My last report told you of the agent here going to Miller and Glacier Creeks and collecting fees and making entries ; as he did not go west of those creeks no complications will arise, for as you will see by my sketch map tliey are within Canada. I may say here that one claim on Miller Creek turned out about ^70,000 last winter, and several others have done very well too. So far nearly all the miners have passed here, going to Circle City (about 200 miles down) and I have no doubt many of them will kee]) on going. About 100 miners are reported on the Hootalinqua this ki.oxdvkf: facts. 1G9 summer. We shall ])r()bablv soon have to extend law and order there. Many here make gardens, using any seed they can get, and some are going to try grasses for fodder. I would sug- gest the director of the central experimental farm be asked to send in seeds of the kinds of ordinary vegetables and grasses best suited to such a climate as this, to be distributed by the agent here to those who will make a proper use of them, or for sale at cost. 1 am quite sure it would be of much service, and if some hints on the proper care of plants were sent in it would be more so, as most of the ])eople in here know prac- tically nothing of gartlening or farming. Besides, it would improve the feeling among the people here towards our coun- try and institutions and would cost the country jiractically nothing. CuDAHV, August rSth, 1896. It is now certain that coal extends along the valley of the Yukon from Coal Creek for 10 or i 2 miles down, and from Coal Creek up to Twelve Mile Creek, which flows into the Yukon about 30 miles above here. The latter stretch is cut off from the river by several miles of hills, as it is about 6 miles direct from the river at Coal Creek and about iS on Twelve Mile Creek. This is the stream named Chandindu by Schwatka. There is a seam ou ii about 6 feet thick as re- ported by an exy)ert who went in search of it. I foimci drift coal on the south branch of Coal Creek. On the Cornell claim on Cliff Creek the seam is 5 feet 4 inches thick. I have sent specimens of it out. I found it necessary to refer to the different creeks so had to name them 170 KLONDYKE FACTS. " Shell Creek," because I found a stone with a shell impres- sion at its mouth ; " Cliff Creek," because it enters the river at the foot of a high cliff ; and " Flat Creek," because it enters the river in a large flat. Glacier Greek is turning out very well, and several good creeks have been discovered up Forty Mile in x\laska. CuDAHY, 6 th September, 1896. I have been in hourly expectation of the Canadian mail for some days now, but it has not arrived yet. The A. C. Co.'s Steamer " Alice " came up on the fourth instant, but brought no news for me, so that I am completely in the dark as to my movements yet, and if I am to go out it is time I was on the way. I do not wish to remain here another winter unless it is absolutely necessary ; more especially with my party and all its expenses. In case I go out, I will try to accompany Mr. J. Dalton over his trail from the head of Chilkat Inlet to Selkirk on the Yukon. He has made several trips over that route with horses and packs and speaks very highly of it. I will make a rough survey of it and take some photographs along the route. I have taken copious notes of it from him, but would like to see it for myself. I am very much pleased to be able to inform you that a most important discovery of gold has been made on a creek called Bonanza Creek, an affluent of the river known here as the Klondyke.* It is marked on the maps extant as Deer River and joins the Yukon a few miles above the site of Fort Reliance. The discovery was made by G. W. Cormack, who worked * The correct name is Thron Diuck, KLOXDVKE FACTS. 171 with me in 1887 on the coast range. The indications are that it is very rich, indeed the richest yet found, and as far as work has been carried on it reahzes expectations. It is only two weeks since it was known, and already about 200 claims have been staked on it and the creek is not yet exhausted : it and its branches are considered good for 300 to 400 claims. Be- sides there are two other creeks above it which it is confi- dently expected will yield good pay, and if they do so we have from 800 to 1 ,000 claims on this river which will require over 2,000 men for their proper working. Between Thron-Diuck River and Stewart River a large creek called Indian Creek flows into the Yukon and rich prospects have been found on it, and no doubt it is in the gold-bearing country between Thron-Diuck and Stewart Riveis, which is considered by all the old miners the best and most extensive gold country yet found. Scores of them would prospect it but for the fact that they cannot get provisions up there and it is too far to boat them up from here in small boats. This new find will necessitate an upward step on the Yukon, and help the Stewart River region. News has just arrived from Bonanza Creek that three men worked out $75 in four hours the other day, and a $12 nugget has been found, which assures the character of the ground, namely, coarse gold and plenty of it, as three times this can be done with sluice boxes. You can fancy the excitement here. It is claimed that from $100 to $500 per day can be made off the ground that has been prospected so far. As we have about too claims on Glacier and Miller Creeks, with three or four hundred in this vicinity, next year it is impera- tive that a man be sent in here to look after these claims and all land matters, and it is almost imperative that the agent be a sur\-eyor. Already on Bonanza Creek they are disputing about the size of claims. 172 l^L ONT) YKE FA C'TS. I would have gone up and laid out the claims properly, but it would take me ten or twelve days to do so, and meantime my presence might be more urgently required elsewhere. Another important matter is the appointment ol" some sort of legal machinery here. Before the ])olice came miners' meet- ing administered justice, collected debts, etc., etc. ; now the magistrates here are expected to do all that, and when it is found that they do not it causes much dissatisfaction, and there are several cases of real hardship where parties will not pav their just debts though able to do so. If a miners' meet- ing were held and judgment given against the delincpient it would do no good for he would and does resist jjayment, and were force resorted to he would ai)])eal to the police for protec- tion. A continuation of this state of affairs is most undesirable in the interest of our country, for we have a reputation as a justice-administering, law-abiding people to maintain, and I would urge ntlv ])ress this matter on the authorities. From the indications 1 have mentioned it would be seen that this corner of the North-west is not going to be the least important part of it, more especially when we tonsider the fact that gold-bearing quartz has been found in it at numerous places and much will no doubt l)e worked. It i^ a])parent that the revenue and business of the countrv will more than offset the expense of administration. I cannot here enter into the reasons for it, but 1 unhesitat- ingly make the assertion that this corner of our territorv from the coast strip down and from the 141st meridian eastward will be found to be a fairlv ri< h and %erv extensi\e mining region. As I have already pretty fully reported on coal, I will onlv add that it is reported in abundance only 8 miles up the Chandindu River, where a seam over 6 feet thick has been found of the same (juality as that already described. KLOXJWKi: r.ifTS. 173 CuDAiiY, November 6th, 1S96. Your official letter informing me that negotiations for a joint sursey of the 141st meridian had so far failed, and that I had better return to Ottawa for the winter, reached me here on the nth of September. As the Alaska Commercial Com- pany's steamer "Arctic" was then hourly expected up the river on her way to Selkirk, I thought it best to wait and go up on her to that point. Day after day passed witliout anv sign of her ; wearied of waiting, and hopeless of her arri\al at all this year, I determined to start out on the 27 th of September, a late date but with fair conditions feasible. On the 25th a tremendous storm of snow set in which so chilled the river that in a few days after it was choked with ice which precluded all idea of getting u]) the river, and it was equally hopeless down the river. Three parties have announced their intention of starting for the outside world about the ist prox., and I write this con- templating its transmission by one or other of these parties. For myself to think of going out in the winter is, 1 think, un- wise, for the following reasons: — Dogs, the only means of transport, are scarce and dear, ranging from S30 or $40 to Si 25 apiece. Dog food, like all other food, is scarce, by reason of the poor salmon run in the ri\er last season — ])rac- tically none were caught near here — and the result is the dog tiwners here have to use bacon for food, which at 25 to 40 cts. l)er i^ound, is expensive. I would require a team of eight dogs to take my outfit anil mv man Fawcett with our jirovisions and the dogs' food as far as Taiva. There the dogs would have to be abandoned or killed, as they are worthless on the coast, except to parties coming in here early in the season. Starting from here say December ist, it would be February before 1 reached Ottawa, 174 KLONDYKE FACTS. and during 35 or 40 days of this time we would be exposed to much cold and hardship and some hazard from storms. The journey has been made, and I would not hesitate to undertake it were things more reasonable here and dog food plentiful, but it would take at least $1,000 to equip me with transport and outfit, which sum, I think, I can expend more in the interests of the country by remaining here and making a survey of the Klondak of the miners — a mispronunciation of the Indian word or words "Thron-dak" or " diuck," which means plenty of fish, from the fact that it is a famous salmon stream. It is marked Tondak on our maps. It joins the Yukon from the east, a few miles above the site of Fort Re- liance, about 50 miles above here. As I have already in- timated, rich placer mines of gold were discovered on the branches of this stream. The discovery, I believe, was due to the reports of Indians. A white man named George W. Cor- mack, who worked with me in 1887, was the first to take ad- vantage of the rumors and locate a claim on the first branch, which was named by the miners Bonanza Creek. Cormack located late in August, but had to cut some logs for the mill here to get a few pounds of provisions to enable him to begin work on his claim. The fishing at Thron-Diuck having totally failed him, he returned with a few weeks' provisions for him- self, his wife and brother-in-law (Indians) and another Indian in the last days of August, and immediately set about working his claim. As he was very short of appliances he could only put together a rather defective apparatus to wash the gravel with. The gravel itself he had to carry in a box on his back from 30 to 100 feet ; notwithstanding this, the three men working very irregularly, washed out $1,200 in eight days, and Cormack asserts with reason that had he had proper facilities it could have been done in two days, besides having several KLONDYKE FACTS. 175 hundred dollars more gold which was lost in the tailings through defective apparatus. On the same creek two men rocked out $75 in about four hours, and it is asserted that two men in the same creek took out $4,000 in two days with only two lengths of sluice boxes. This last is doubted, but Mr. ladue assures me he weighed that much gold for them, but is not positive where they got it. They were new comers and had not done much in the country, so the probabilities are they got it on Bonanza Creek. A branch of Bonanza named Eldorado has prospected magni- ficently, and another branch named Tilly Creek has prospected well ; in all there are some four or five branches to Bonanza which have given good prospects. There are about 170 claims staked on the main creek, and the branches are good for about as many more, aggregating say 350 claims, which will re([uire over 1,000 men to work properly. A few miles farther up Bear Creek enters Thron-Diuck, and it has been prospected and located on. Compared with Bonanza it is small, and will not afford more than 20 or 30 claims, it is said. About 1 2 miles above the mouth Gold- bottom Creek joins Thron-Diuck, and on it and a Inanch named Hunker Creek (after the discoverer) very rich ground has been found. One man showed me $22.75 he took out in a few hours on Hunker Creek with a gold pan, ])rospecting his claim on the surface, taking a handful here and there as fancy suggested. On Gold-bottom Creek and branches there will probably be 200 or 300 claims. The Indians have reported another creek much farther up, which they call " Too much gold creek," on which the gold is so plentiful that, as the miners say in joke, " you have to mix gravel with it to sluice it." From all this we may, I tliink, infer that we have here a dis- trict which will give 1,000 claims of 500 feet in length each. 176 KLOyUYKE FACTS. Now, i,ooo such claims will require at least 3,000 men to work them properly, and as wages for working in the mines are from 12 to 15 dollars per day without board, we have every reason to assume that this ]3art of our territory will in a year or two contain 10,000 souls at least. For the news has gone out to the coast and an unprecedented influx is expected next spring.* And this is not all, for a large creek called Indian Creek joins the Yukon about midway between Thron-Diuck and Stewart Rivers, and all along this creek good pay has been found. All that has stood in the way of working it heretofore has been the scarcity of provisions and the difficulty of getting them up there even when here. Indian Creek is quite a large stream and it is probable it will yield five or six hundred claims. Further south yet lies the head of several branches of vStewart River on which some j)rospecting has been done this summer and good indications found, l)ut tlie want of |)rovisions pre- vented development. Now gold has been found in several of the streams joining Pelly River, and also all along the Hoota- linqua. In the line of these finds farther south is the Cassiar gold field in British Columbia ; so the presumption is that we have in our territory along the easterly water-shed of the Yukon a gold-bearing belt of indefinite width, and upwards of 300 miles long, exclusive of the Uritisli Columbia part of it. On the westerly side of the Yukon pros]:)ecting has been done on a creek a short distance abo\e Selkirk with a fair amoimt of suc- cess, and on a large creek some 30 or 40 miles below Selkirk fair prospects have been found ; but, as before remarked, the * A feature of this year's immigration is that it includes many women and children. The correspondent of a western paper, writing from the Chilkoot pass at the beginning <>f last numth, says :" To go along the trail, one would think the peoplr were l)inuKl for a farming country, there are horses, plonglis, wheelliarrows, three mowing machines, coops of chickens, etc,'" KL oyn YKE FA CIS. 177 diffi( ulty of getting supplies here prevents any extensive or extended j)rosj)ecting. Dalton informed me he had found good ])rospects on a small treek nearly midway between the coast range and Selkirk in his route. His man showed mc some coarse gold, about a dollar's worth, he found on the head of a branch of the Altsek River near the head of Chilkat Inlet, which is inside the sum- mit of the coast range and of course in our territory. From this you will gather that we ha\c a very large area all more or less gold-bearing and which will all yet be worked. Good quartz has been found in places just across the line on Davis Creek, but of what extent is unknown as it is in the bed of the creek and covered with gravel, dood (|uart/ is also re- l)orted on the hills around Bonanza Creek, but o\ this 1 will be able to si)eak more fully after my ])r()p;)scd survev. It is l)retty certain from information I have uot from ])rospectors that all or nearly all of the northerlv branch of White River is on our side of the line, and copper is found on it, but more abundantly on the southerly branch of which a great ])ortion is in our territory also, so it is probable we have that metal too. I have seen here several hmipsof copper brought by the natives from White River, but just from what ]iart is uncertain. I have also seen a s]jecimen of silver ore said to have been ])icked up in a creek flowing into I.ake Bennet, about 14 miles down it, on the east side. I think this is enough to sht)w that we mav look forward with confitlence to a fairly bright future for this ])art of our territory'. When it was fairly established that lionanza Creek was rich in gold, which took a few days, for Thron-Diuck had been prospected several times with no encouraging result, there was a great rush from all over the countrv adjacent to Fortv Mile. The town was almost deserted : men who had been in a \2 178 KLONDYKE FACTS. chronic state of drunkenness for weeks were pitched into boats as ballast and taken up to stake themselves a claim, and claims were staked by men for their friends who were not in the country at the time. All this gave rise to such conflict and confusion, there being no one present to take charge of matters, the agent being unable to go up and attend to the thing, and myself not yet knowing what to do, that the miners held a meeting, and appointed one of themselves to measure off and stake the claims, and record the owners' names in connection therewith, for which he got a fee of $2, it being of course understood that each claim holder would have to record his claim with the Dominion agent and pay his fee of ^15. At the same meeting they discussed our law on mining, and discovered, as they thought, that it was very defective. They ai>pointed a committee to wait on the agent and ask him to ratify their course in appointing the surveyor and recorder to act />ro tan on the creek and to forward their views on the law to the department at Ottawa. Now, it appears to me that a good deal of fault of the law as they found it lay in the fact that they did not read it all in its proper connection ; and be- cause the printed law did not start out from a given point and detail consecutively just what was to be done under every pos- sible contingency that might arise under that heading they thought it defective. I believe this to be the case because I have never had any difficulty in explaining any case that has been submitted to me for an opinion, and there have been a good many. The miners as a rule are dissatisfied with the claims laid out for them by their own surveyor appointed as I have already intimated, and many of them are claiming for a remeasurement now that they know that I am going to make a survey of the creeks. In fact many of them thought that a survey of the KLONDYKE FACTS. 179 creeks necessarily meant a survey and adjustment of the claims, and it took me some time to correct that impression. I made them understand that as the claims had been laid out by their own act and had been approved of by the agent I could not interfere without the consent and approval of all the original parties to the act, and they would have to meet and discuss the question and determine whether they would have them ad- justed or not. If they decide to have it done I made them understand they would have to assist me at work as I passed along. If they do not require it I will take the necessary steps to enable me to plot very closely where every claim is. I may make a good deal of the survey by photography as I have about ten dozen good plates yet. In any case I will occupy several l)hoto stations to enable me to give some idea of the mountain ranges around — if any — and supplement my views from the boundary last winter. As soon as this work is done all my men will take their discharge, Adam Fawcett going into the service of the Alaska Commercial Company, and all the rest mining. If you want any further surveys made in here men will have to be sent in to do it, for men cannot be had here for less than from ^5 to ^lo per day. Any man sent in for survey purposes will reciuire to bring a good canoe with him, say 19 feet long and 44 inches wide, and 18 to 20 deep. Such a canoe will bring in 5 or 6 men and their stock of provisions for the trip. By the time they would arrive here provisions will be plentiful, for the boats will then be up from Circle City where two of them are probably wintering. A party crossing the summit early in June would just about find the lakes open for the run down. You might warn any such party that they had better nm no risk at the Canon, White Horse and Five Fingers. The Canon is not dangerous, but there is a good portage past it. The rapids between it and the White Horse are rough in high 180 KLONDYKE FACTS. water but with care are safe. A great many large boats run the White Horse, but most of them take more or less water ; many fill altogether, and the owners are often drowned ; in any case they lose all their effects if they do escape. A care- ful estimate of those drowned in 1895 places the number at 13, a large percentage, I think of those who tried it. The Five Fingers are at some stages of the water uncertain. Last time I came down I found it very nice on the left side — no danger at all, while boats passing the right side took in water. In every case the party in charge will do well to carefully examine beforehand all the points named. Should you deem it advis- able for myself to return early in the summer, I will have to make my way around by the mouth, as I will have no men to help me up stream, and no one will be ascending the river un- til near September, and indeed very few do at all now. Any party coming in would reasonably be expected in before I started down, and I could confer with them on the work to be done should you deem it advisable to do so. In the course of a year I believe coal will supersede wood for fuel, which will relieve the demand as far as the towns and villages are concerned ; but mining interests will require a lot of fuel where coal cannot be taken. The traffic in liquor will have to be taken hold of and reg- ulated at once ; it is here now and cannot be kept out by any reasonably practical means. The majority — the great majority of miners — will have it, and all the more will their predilection be if it is attempted to stop the entry of it. In my opinion it is imperative that this business be brought under control at once, or it may develop phases that will be at least annoying in the near future. I have in previous reports intimated that some sort of legal machinery is now absolutely necessary for the trial of cases of contract, collection of debts and generally the judicial interests KLONDYKE FACTS. 181 of the country. There are several cases of hardship now for the want of a proper court. If some sort of court to satisfy the necessities of the people in business here is not at once established serious inconven- ience will result. The ofificer appointed will require to be a hale vigorous person, for it is probable he will have to make journeys of considerable length across unoccui)ie(l country, in the discharge of his duty. There have been several applications for land in the vicinity of the mouth of the Thron-Diuck, and Inspector Constantino has selected a reserv-e for government purposes at the conflu- ence of that stream with the Yukon 40 acres in extent. A court or ofTfice of record in real estate transactions will require to be opened here at once. A recorder was appointed in Forty Mile and a plot made in 1884. In anticipation of my going out this fall I got a meeting held of the property owners and had them hand the records over to me for the information of the department. They are in my possession yet, and I will take them out with me when I go. I'hey are rather crude in form and require an initiate to understand them. I act as recorder//-*? tcin. Before closing I may say that every report that comes in from Bonanza Creek is more encouraging than the last. Pros- pecting has only begun, and up to date of mailing, November 2 2d, very rich prospects have been found on the few claims prospected on : from one dollar to the pan of dirt up to twelve dollars are reported and no bed rock found yet. This means from $1,000 to $12,000 per day per man sluicing. The excitement is intense but at this season of the year it is naturally very local. 182 KLONDYKE FACTS. I expect a mail will be starting from here in January and I will try and send out a short report by it embracing events up to date. C//(/a/iy, <)th. December, 1896. A mail left here for the outside on the 27 th ultimo by which I sent you an interim report, which will probably reach you in January. From it you will learn how I came to be caught in the country and why I have not attempted to get out in the winter. As you are as likely to get that report as you are this one, I refrain from repeating more here than to say that should it be necessary for me to go out before summer I will try and get out by dog team, starting in the last of February or early in March when the days are long and the weather mild, getting out say early in May. Since my last the prospects on Bonanza Creek and tribu- taries are increasing in richness and extent until now it is cer- tain that millions will be taken out of the district in the next few years. On some of the claims prospected the pay dirt is of great extent and very rich. One man told me yesterday that he washed out a single pan of dirt on one of the claims on Bon- anza and found ^14.25 in it. Of course that may be an ex- ceptionally rich pan, but ^5 to $7 per pan is the average on that claim it is reported, with 5 feet of pay dirt and the width yet undetermined, but it is known to be 30 feet even at that : figure the result at 9 to 10 pans to the cubic foot, and 500 feet long; nearly $4,000,000 at ^^5 per pan — one-fourth of this would be enormous. Another claim has been prospected to such an extent that it is known there is about 5 feet pay dirt averaging $2 per pan and width not less than 30 feet. Enough prospecting has KL ONB TKE FA CTS. 183 been done to show that there are at least 15 miles of this extraordinary richness ; and the indications are that we will have 3 or 4 times that extent, if not all equal to the above at least very rich. I think the department should get large posters printed on which shall be shown the sections of the law governing the location and recording of quartz and placer mines, the ex- tent of each, the duties of miners, in both cases, and the rul- ings of the department on the questions I have submitted, with the penalties attached to offences against the law. Some of these should be printed on stout paper or parchment capable of standing exposure to the weather, and posted at every im- ])ortant point in the country so that there may be no excuse hereafter for ignorance. A large number of copies of the Mining Act, Land Act, and timber and hay lands regulations should also be sent in. As to the extent of mining districts they should I think be made large, and section 2 1 amended to enable a man who has located a claim which does not pay a reasonable return on outlay the first season after his claim has been prospected, to make a second location in the same locality or district provided he can find one in it. The agent would have to determine whether or not he had expended the proper amount of labor on his claim to get reasonable returns ; this I know opens the door for a lot of trouble and may be fraud, but on the other hand a great many worthy men suffer from the want of some' such regulation, and as very few would be in a position to take advantage of such a provision until after their second season, there would hardly be anything left for them to take. Enter- prising industrious men who would work almost continuously might get some benefit — probably would — but no others, so such a regulation could not do very much harm and might help some deserving people. As it is now men stake claims on 184 ELONDYKE FACTS. nearly every new find, some having several claims in the Thron- Diuck locality. They know, I believe, that they will not be able to hold them, but as the localities are not yet clearly de- fined they can hold on to them for a while and finally by col- lusion with others acquire an interest in them. The miners here are I understand getting up a petition to the Minister asking for aid in opening a way from the south and building along it shelter for winter travellers, with suitable supplies scattered along. As it is now a winter's trip out from here is on account of the long haul and want of shelter tedious and hazardous, and their representations are worthy of consideration. The following letters written so far back as January will prove most interesting. Ciidahy, nth January, 1897. The reports from the Klondyke region are still very encour- aging ; so much so that all the other creeks around are practi- cally abandoned, especially those on the head of Forty Mile in American territory, and nearly one hundred men have made their way up from Circle City, many of them hauling their sleds themselves. Those who cannot get claims are buying in on those already located. Men cannot be got to work for love or money, and development is consequently slow ; one and a half dollars per hour is the wages paid the few men who have to work for hire, and work as many hours as they like. Some of the claims are so rich that every night a few pans of dirt suf- fices to pay the hired help when there is any : as high as $204 has been reported to a single pan, but this is not generally credited. Claim owners are now very reticent about what they get, so you can hardly credit anything you hear ; but one thing is certain we have one of the richest mining areas ever KLONDYKE FACTS. 185 found, with a fair prospect that we have not yet discovered its limits. Miller and Glacier Creeks on the head of Sixty Mile River, which my smvey of the 141st meridian determined to be in Canada, were thought to be very rich, but they are poor both in quality and quantity compared with Klondyke. Chicken Creek on the head of Forty Mile, in Alaska, dis- covered a year ago and rated very high, is to-day practically abandoned. Some quartz prospecting has been done in Klondyke region, and it is probable that some good veins will be found there. Coal is found on the upper part of Klondyke ; so that the facilities for working it if found are good and con- venient. Ciidahy, 23d Januar}', 1897. I have just heard from a reliable source that the quartz men- tioned above is rich, as tested, over one hundred dollars to the ton. The lode appears to run from 3 to 8 feet in thickness and is about 19 miles from the Yukon River. I will likely be called on to sur%-ey it, and will be able to report fully. Placer prospects continue more and more encouraging and extraordinary. It is beyond doubt that 3 pans on different claims on Eldorado turned out $204, $212, and $2\(i \ but it must be borne in mind that there were only three such pans, though there are many running from $10 to $50. 186 KLONDYKE FACTS. I have been repeatedly asked what I think of the present rush to the gold regions, and I have to say that I regret it exceedingly. For this season of the year, I think it very bad indeed, and that there will be a great amount of hard- ship and suffering. I do not recommend any one to at- tempt to make the trip until March 15. There is unquestionably room for a great many people in that district, but already too many have left for the hard winter trip that must be taken before Dawson City can be reached. I have made the trip many times and know whereof I speak, and shall certainly not attempt to return till after March 1st, 1898. Dawson City is now the most important point in the new mining regions. Its population in June, 1897, exceeded 4,000 ; by June Jiext it cannot be less than 25,000. It has a saw-mill, stores, churches, of the Presbyterian, Baptist, Methodist and Roman Catholic denominations. It is the headquarters of the Canadian "Northwest Mounted Police, and perfect Jaw and order is maintained. It is at Dawson that the prospector files liis claims with the Ciovernment Gold Commissioner, in tlio recording offices. Dawson faces on one of tlie banks of the Yukon Kiver, and now occupies about a mile of the bank. It is at the junction of the Klondyke Ch-eek vv'ith the Yukon Kiver. It is here where the most valuable mining claims are being operated on a scale of profit that the Avorld lias hitherto never known. The entire country surrounding is teeming with mineral wealth. Copper, silver and coal can be found in large quantities, but little or no attention is now being jjuid to these valu- able minerals, as every one is engaged in gold-hunting and working the extraordinary filacer mining claims already located. KLONBYKE FACTS. 187 The entire section is given up to placer mining. Very few claims had been filed for quartz mining. The fields of gold will not be exhausted in the near future. No man can tell what the end will be. From January to Aprils 1897, about $4,000,000 were taken out of the few placer claims then being worked. This was done in a territory not ex- ceeding forty square miles. All these claims are located on Klondyke Eiver and the little tributaries emptying into it, and the districts are known as Big Bonanza, Gold Bottom and Hunker. I have asked old aiid experienced miners at Dawson, who mined through California in Bonanza days, and some who mined in Australia, what they thought of the Klon- dyke region, and their reply has invariably been : '' The world never saw so vast and rich a find of gold as we are working now." Daw^son City is destined to be the greatest mining centre in the histoiy of mining operations. The entire country is teeming with mineral wealth. Co})pcr, silver, as well as coal, can be found in large quan- tities but little or no attention is being paid at present to these minerals, as everybody's mind is bent on getting gold. When mining operations commence on coal it will be specially valuable for steamers on the various rivers and greatly assist transportation facilities. In the next few years there Avill certainly be recorded the most marvellous discoveries in this territory usually thought to be only a land of snow and ice and fit only to be classed Avith the Arctic regions. It is marvellous to state that for some years past we have been finding gold in occasional places in this territory, but from the poverty of the people no effort was made to prospect among the places reported. It is mv belief that the greatest finds of gold will not be 188 KLONDYKE FACTS. made in this territory. It is safe to say that not 2 per cent, of all the gold discovered so far has been on United States soil. The great mass of the work has been done on the North- west territory which is under the Canadian Government. It is possible, however, that further discoveries will be made on American soil, but it is my opinion that the most valuable discoveries Avill be further east and south of the present claims, and we would advise prospectors to work east and south of Klondyke. From the very clear map shown in this work and which takes in the jiresent gold regions, it will be seen that Dawson City is at the junction of the Klondyke River, marked on the map " Thron-Diuck." The mining claims commence within 2^ miles from Dawson City on the Klondyke and follow the stream on both sides to " Too Much Gold Creek," All the tributary streams on the Klondyke such as " Too Much Gold Creek," Hunker's Creek, Gold Bottom, Last Chance, and Bear Creek, Bould's Bonanza, and Eldorado are now being worked by the miners. The richest of these is Eldorado, Gold Bottom, Hunker and "Too Much Gold Creek." All of them, however, are exceptionally rich for placer mining. It is reported that the least known as yet of these, " Too Much Gold Creek" Avill probably be the most valuable in the region. It is the most distant from Dawson City. THE TOO-MUCH-GOLD RIVER, Which the Indians report to be situated beyond, and to be far richer tlian the Klondyke. Far up the stern-precipiced Klondyke, In the Arctic drear, we are told. There speeds a mysterious river, " The River of Too Much Gold." ELONDYKE FACTS. 189 O say, ye powers of darkness ! Did the Yukon Indians dream The longing they roused in our heart-chords When they named us that hidden stream ? There once was an El Dorado Men crazed their lives to behold ; But what ^vas the merelj'^ Golden To the River of Too Much Gold? O, if we could stand on its border, And after our sacks were distent, Kick round us still beaches of nuggets, Would we feel we could then be content ? Would we feel, as we shouldered our million, — Pledge of pleasures ten thousand fold. That even then this river W^as a River of Too Much Gold ? Or when will the heart of mortal Be ready to cry • ' Enough ! " And what is the use of the struggle For the " stuff " if it does not stuff? But however it be, I am longing As though it would free me from care. For the banks of that Arctic river, And a little of what is there. W. D. LiGHTHALL. APPENDIX. Excerpts from the Mining Laws of the Northwest Territories. definition of terms used in mining. ''Mine/' "placer mine," and "diggings" shall be syn- onymous terms and shall mean any natural stratum or bed of earth, gravel or cement mined for gold or other precious minerals : " Placer claim " shall mean the personal right of property or interest in any placer mine ; and in the term "■ min- ing property " shall be included every placer claim, ditch, or water right used for placer mining purposes, and all other things belonging thereto or used in the working thereof. Placer claims shall be divided into creek diggings, bar diggings, dry diggings, bench dig- gings, and hill diggings : " Creek diggings" shall mean any mine in the bed of any river, stream or ravine, excepting bar diggings : " Bar diggings " shall mean any mine over which a river extends when in its flooded state : 191 1 92 APPENDIX. •' Dry diggings " sliall mean any mine over which a river never extends : '' Bench diggings" sliall mean any mine on a bench, and shall, for the purpose of defining the size of a claim in bench diggings, be excepted from "^dry diggings : " "Hill diggings" shall mean any mine on the surface of a hill, and fronting on any natural stream or ravine : " Streams and ravines" shall include all natural water- courses, whether usually containing water or not, and all rivers, creeks and gulches : *^ Ditch " shall include a flume, pipe, race, or other arti- ficial means for conducting water by its own weight, to be nsed for mining purposes : " Ditch head " shall mean the point in a natural water- course or lake where water is first taken into a ditch : "Free miner" shall mean a person, or joint stock company, or foreign company named in, and lawfully possessed of, a valid existing free miner's certificate, and no other : "Legal post" shall mean a stake standing not less than four feet above the ground, and squared or faced on four sides for at least one foot from the top, and each side so squared or faced shall measure at least four inches on its face so far as squared or faced, or any stump or tree cut off and squared or faced to the above height and size : " Kecord," "register," and " registration,'' shall have the same meaning, and shall mean an entry in some offi- cial book kept for that purj^ose : " Eecord," when used without qualifying words showing APPEMJIX. 193 that a different matter is referred to, sliall be taken to refer to the record of the location of a pUicer claim : *' Full interest " shall mean any placer claim of the full size, or one of several shares into which a mine may be equally divided : "■'Close season "' shall mean the period of the year during which })lacer claims in any district are laid over by the (rold Commissioner of that district : *' Cause " shall include any suit or action : '' Judgment shall include " order " or " decree'^ : *' Ileal estate " sliall mean any placer mineral land held in fee simple. MISCELLANEOUS REGULATIOXS. 1. Tlie Minister of the Interior shall, from time to time, as he may think fit, declare the boundaries of mineral and mining districts, and shall cause a description of the same to be published in the Canada Gazette. 'L The Minister of the Interior may direct mineral and mining locations to be laid out within such districts wher- ever, from report of the Director of the Geological Survey, or from other information, he has reason to believe there are mineral deposits of economic value, and may sell the same to api)licants therefor, who, in his opinion, are able and intend in good faith to work the same ; or, he may from time to time, cause the said locations to be sold by public auction or tender. Such sales shall be for cash, and at prices in no case lower than those prescribed for locations sold to original discoverers, and shall otherwise be subject to all the provisions of these Regulations. 13 194 APPENDIX. 3. The Minister of the Interior may grant to any person or persons who haA^e a mining location and are actively de- veloping the same, an additional location adjacent to and not exceeding it in area, provided the person or jiersons holding snch location shall show to the satisfaction of the Minister of the Interior that the vein or lode being devel- oped on the location will probably extend ontside of either of the vertical lines forming the side boundaries of the location before it has reached the depth at which it can be profitably mined. 4. Persons desirous of obtaining quarries for stone on vacant Dominion Lands may do so under these Eegulations ; but the Minister of the Interior may require the payment of a royalty not exceeding five per cent, on account of the sales of tlie product of such quarries, or the land may be sold not subject to such royalty at such price as may be determined. 5. Eeturns shall be made by the grantee, sworn to by him, or by his agent or other employe in charge of the mine, at monthly or other such intervals as may be re- quired by the Minister of the Interior, of all products of liis mining location and of the price or amount he received for the same. G. The Minister of the Interior shall have the power to summarily order any mining works to be so carried on as not to interfere with or endanger the safety of the public, any public work or highway, or any mining property, mineral lands, mining* claims, bed-rock drains or flumes ; and any abandoned works may, by his order, be either filled up or guarded to his satisfaction, at the cost of the parties who may have constructed the same, or in their absence upon such terms as he shall think fit. APPENDIX. 195 7. The Snjierintendent of Mines, acting under instruc- tions to be from time to time issued by the Minister of the Interior, shall cause to be laid out, at tlie exj^ense of the person or persons applying for the same, a space of ground for dejiosits of leavings and deads from any tunnel, claim or mining ground. FORFEITURE. 8. In the event of the breach of these Eegulations, or any of them by any j^erson holding a grant for Quartz or Placer Mining from the Crown other than Crown Patents, or from the Minister of the Interior, or from any duly authorized officer of Dominion Lands, such right or grant shall be absolutely forfeited ipso facto, and the person so offending shall be incapable thereafter of acquiring any such right or grant, unless for sj^ecial cause it is otherwise decided bv the Minister of the Interior. RIGHTS AXD DUTIES OF MIXERS. 1. The forms of application for a grant for placer min- ing, and the grant of the same, shall be those contained in forms H and I. 2. The entry of every holder of a grant for placer mining must be renewed and his receipt relinquished and replaced every year, the entry fee being paid each time. 3. No miner shall receive a grant of more than one min- ing claim in the same locality, but the same miner may hold any number of claims by purchase, and any number of miners may unite to work their claims in common upon such terms as they may arrange, provided such agreement 196 APPENDIX. be registered with tlie Agent, and a fee paid for each reg- istration. 4. Any miner or miners may sell, mortgage, or dispose of his or their claims, provided such disposal be registered with, and a fee of two dollars paid to the Agent who shall thereupon give the assignee a certificate. 5. Every miner shall, during the continuance of his grant, have the exclusive right of entry upon his own claim, for the miner-like working thereof, and the con- struction of a residence thereon, and shall be entitled ex- clusively to all the proceeds realized therefrom ; but he shall have no surface rights therein ; and the Superinten- dent of Mines may grant to the holders of adjacent claims such right of entry thereon as may be absolutely necessary for the working of their claims, ujion such terms as may, to him, seem reasonable. 6. Every miner shall be entitled to the use of so much of the water naturally flowing through or j^ast his claim, and not already lawfully appropriated, as shall, in the opinion of the Superintendent of Mines, be necessary for the due working thereof ; and shall be entitled to drain his own claim free of charge. 7. A claim shall be deemed to be abandoned and open to occupation and entry by any person when the same shall have remained unworked on working days by the grantee thereof for the space of seventy-two hours, unless sickness or other reasonable cause be shown, or unless the grantee is absent on leave. 8. A claim granted under these Eegulations shall be con- tinuously, and in good faith, worked, excejit as otherwise APPENBIX. 197 provided, by the grantee thereof or b}- some person on his behalf. 9. In tunnelling under hills, on the frontage of which angles occur, or which may be of an oblong or elliptical form, no party shall be allowed to tunnel from any of the said angles, or from either end of such hills, so as to in- terfere with parties tunnelling from the main frontage. 10. Tunnels and shafts shall be considered as belonging to the claim for the use of which they are constructed, and as abandoned or forfeited by the abandonment or forfeiture of the claim itself. 11. For the more convenient working of back claims on benches or slopes, the Superintendent of Mines may per- mit the owners thereof to drive a tunnel through the claims fronting on any creek, ravine, or water-course, upon such terms as he may deem expedient. HEAEIXG AXD DECISION OF DISPUTES. 1. The Superintendent of Mines shall have j)ower to hear and determine all disputes in regard to mining jjrop- erty arising within his district, subject to apj)eal by either of the parties to the Commissioner of Dominion Lands. 2. No particular forms of procedure shall be necessary, but the matter complained of must be properly expressed in writing, and a copy of the complaint shall be served on the opposite party not less than seven days before the hear- ing of the said complaint. 3. The complaint may, by leave of the Superintendent of Mines, be amended at any time before or during the proceedings. 198 APPENDIX. 4. The complainant shall, at the time of filing his complaint, deposit therewith a bond-fee, which shall be returned to him if the complaint proves to have been well founded, and not otherwise, except for special cause, by direction of the Minister of the Interior. 5. In the event of the decision of the Superintendent of Mines being made the subject of an appeal to the Com- missioner of Dominion Lands, the appellant shall, at the time of lodging the appeal, deposit with the Agent a bond-fee, which shall be returned to the said appellant if his appeal proves to have been well founded, and not otherwise, excejot for special cause, by direction of the Minister of the Interior. 6. The appeal must be in writing and must be lodged with the Superintendent of Mines not more than three days after his decision has been communicated in writing to all the parties interested, and must state the grounds upon Avhicli the said decision is appealed from. 7. If the Commissioner of Dominion Lands decides that it is necessary to a proper decision of the matter iu issue to have an investigation on the ground, or, in cases of disputed boundaries or measurements, to employ a surveyor to measure or survey the land in question, the expense of the inspection or re-measurement or re-survey, as the case may be, shall be borne by the litigants, who shall pay into the hands of the said Commissioner, in equal parts, such sum as he may think sufficient for the same, before it takes place ; otherwise, it shall not proceed, and the party who refuses to pay such sum shall be adjudged in default. The said Commissioner shall subsequently decide in what proportion the said expense should be borne by the parties respectively, and the surplusage, if any, shall then be returned to the parties, as he may order. APPENDIX. 199 8. All bond-fees adjudged as forfeited and all jiayments retained under the last preceding section, shall, as soon as decision has been rendered, and all entry and other fees or moneys shall, as soon as they have been received by him, be paid by the said Agent or Commissioner to tlie credit of the Receiver-General in the same manner as other moneys received by him on account of Dominion Lands. ADMINISTRATIOX. 1. In case of the death of any miner while entered as the holder of any mining claim, the provisions as to aban- donment shall not ajiply either during his last illness or after his decease. 2. The Minister of the Interior shall take possession of the mining pro^Dcrty of the deceased, and may cause such mining property to be duly worked, or dispense therewith, at his option ; and he shall sell the property l)y private sale, or, after ten days' notice thereof, by public auction,, upon such terms as he shall deem just, and out of the pro- ceeds pay all costs and charges incurred thereby, and pay tlie balance, if any, to the legal representatives of the said deceased miner. 3. The Minister of the Interior, or any person authorized by him, shall take charge of all the property of deceased miners until the issue of letters of administration. 200 APPENDIX. A SHOET ROUTE. J. G. C. LEWIS TELLS OF A NEW WAY TO KEACH THE GOLD REGIO]Sr. Washington, Aug. 3, 1897. There is a short and easy route to the rich gold fields of the Klondyke, according to a communication to the in- terior department from J. G. C. Lewis, a civil engineer of Salem, Or., who says he can open up, at small expense, a route from the mouth of the Copper river, by which the Klondyke may be reached by a journey of not much more than 300 miles from the coast. The route which he proposes would start inland from the mouth of the Copper river, near the Miles glacier, about 25 miles east of the entrance to Prince William sound. He declares the Copper river is navigable for small steamers for many miles beyond the mouth of its j^rincipal eastern tributary, called on the latest maps the Chillyna river, which is itself navigable for a considerable distance. From the head of navigation on the Chillyna, Mr. Lewis says, either a highway or a railroad could be constructed without great difficulty or very heavy grades through what the natives call the '* low pass," probably the Scoloi pass. From this pass the road would follow the valley of the White River to the point it where it empties into the Yukon, on the edge of the Klondyke gold fields. APPENDIX. 201 George F. Boolcor, in an impnblished report made to the geological survey, ofliis investigation in 1805 of the coastal gold districts, says that most of the island of the Alexander Archipelago contain gold deposits yet iinworked, lliat would probably repay very handsomely well-directed eitorts of placer mining. These deposits are in the neighborhood of Sitka and generally on Baronetf and Admiralty islands and the beaches of the adjacent mainland. Another fairly promising region is in a group of deposits on the Kenal peninsula, on the southeast shore of Cook inlet, and the Yak u tat bay and tlie beaches of Kadiak island. These regions have as yet been explored only to a limited degree, owing to the unfavorable physical condition of the coast. Under orders issued by Acting Secretary of War, Meikel- john, Cajitain P. H. Eay and Lieutenant Richardson, of the Eighth Infantry, have started from Fort D. A. Russell, Wy., for Alaska. Their orders are to go as far as Circle City, at least, and make as much of an investigation as the short time remaining will permit. The following circular has been issued l)y the Northern Pacific Railwav : St. Paul, Mii^n., July 28, 1897. To General and District Passenger Agents : I append herewith copy of recent letter from Mr. I. A. Nadeau, our general agent at Seattle, relative to the re- cently discovered Klondyke region, in the Yukon district, Alaska. This letter is based upon the most authentic and reliable information now obtainable from those just re- 202 APPENDIX. turned from this wonderfnl^country. It will bo of interest to yon and those inquiring about the region. The schedule following the letter showing supplies nec- essary per man — unless otherwise mentioned — is based up- on interviews with returned miners and others from the Klondyke, and was actually so used by a party from Seattle going to the mines. There are two established routes into the Klondyke country. One is via the ocean to St Michael's, thence via river steamer up the Yukon to Dawson City. The mouth of the Yukon River is sixty miles from St. Michael's ; dis- tance from St. Michael's to Klondyke, 2000 miles. Facil- ities on the Yukon consist of two stern-wheel steamers be- longing to the Alaska Commercial Co., and the steamers P. B. Weare, J. J. Ilealy, of the North American Trans- portation & Trading Co., and a third boat, the C. H. Hamilton, of the latter company, which is expected to be ready in a couple of weeks. The Yukon is shallow in places, and it is impracticable to operate steamers having a draught of more than 4-1^ feet. The other route,^and the one which will be principally travelled is from Dyea, over the trail, via Chilcoot Pass, to Lake Lindeman, thence through the chain of lakes which you will see on any Alaska map into the Lewes River, and down the Yukon to the Klondyke, The route via Dyea is by steamer from Seattle running direct to Dyea, where they pack over Chilcoot Pass to Lake Lindeman, at which place they build boats usually 22 to 24 feet long and 4|- to 5 feet wide, which are taken through the lakes, while the provisions have to be packed over two short portages, one 1^ mile and one about f mile, while the boat is taken through the small streams. The distance via this latter route is a follows : — APPENDIX. 203 Miles. Miles. Seattle to Juneau 899 * Juneau to Dyea 90 D3'ea to Lake Lindeman ;^8 Across Lake Lindeman 6 Portage, Lindeman to Lake Bennett. ... 1~\ Across Lake Bennett to Caribou Crossing 30 Across Tagisli Lake 19 Six-Mile Eiver to Mud Lake 6 Across Mud Lake 20 Fifty-Mile Eiver from ]\[ud Lake to Lake LeBarge 50 Across Lake LeBarge 31 Thirty-Mile River to Ilootalinqua River.. 30 Down Hootalinqua and Lewes Rivers to Fort Selkirk 187 Fort Selkirk down the Yukon to Dawson City 195 Total distance from Dyea to Dawson City 603i 1598i Over the Chilcoot Pass, the highest elevation of Avhich is said to be 2,000 feet, the trail in jilaces is very steeji, and outfits have to be packed over by men for a distance of eight miles, for the remainder of the distance pack trains are used. There are only two dangerous rapids encoun- tered on this route, and they are at White Horse Rapids, between Mud Lake and Lake LeBarge, and at Five Fingers on the Lewes River, about eighty miles south of its con- * If steamers, however, go direct to Dyea this distance would be shortened perhaps 20 miles. 204 APPENDIX. fluence witli the Pelly. So far as I can learn no serious casualties have occurred at these places. A few prospec- tors by unskilful management have lost their outfits, but Seattle parties who went in last spring state that with ordi- nary care there is no difficulty. For packing freight across from Dyea to Lake Lindeman it cost, if hired, from 18-2- to 20 cents per pound. Some parties at Seattle yester- day contracted to have 15,000 pounds packed across at a rate of 18|^ cents per pound. On the Cleveland, which is to sail August 5th — accom- modations ail taken — the rate announced is $200 for all classes, but on September 10 the steamer Portland will sail from Seattle for St. Michael's, fare 1100, including meals and berth. The Klondyke is a stream, about 140 miles in length, running in a generally westerly direction and the gold bearing creeks where the richest finds have been made, run into the Klondyke from a generally southerly direc- tion. Two and one half miles of the Klondyke from its confluence with the Yiikon, is Bonanza Creek which has several small tributaries. Twelve miles from where the Bonanza enters into the Klondyke, running approxi- mately parallel with the Yukon is Eldorado Creek which is 12 to 15 miles in length. About four miles further up Bo- nanza Creek is Gold Bottom Creek. About seven miles further up is Adams Creek and then come several small streams which bear local names. Bonanza Creek is vari- ously estimated at from 24 to 30 miles in length. Twelve miles up the Klondyke is Bear Creek, which also has a few small tributaries. About twelve miles further up Klondyke is Hunker Creek, and about the same distance from there up the Klondyke, is Too Much Gold Creek. The whole delta of these creeks is where the richest finds have been made and principally on the Bonanza and Eldorado, develop- APPENDIX. 205 ment on the other creeks not being so far advanced although rich strikes are reported on all of them. About 50 miles south on the Yukon from Klondyke is Indian River which runs in a more south-westerly direction. Eunning out of Indian Creek is Quartz Creek, a well explored creek, about 50 miles from the confluence of Indian Creek and Yukon Eiver. About six miles from the mouth of Quartz Creek, extending in a northerly direction to the range of hills which separate the delta of the Indian Creek f roui that of the Klondyke is First Left Hand Fork. About eight miles further up Quartz Creek, running in the same direction is Kettleson Fork. From the opposite side and running in the opposite direction out of Quartz Creek, about five or six miles from the mouth of Quartz Creek, is Phil Creek. These latter from latest reports are being extensively pros- pected and good finds being made. •& * This excellent primary book has taken the first place in ele- mentary scientific works. It has received the endorsement of Thomas A Edison. It is fiar every person desiring a knowledge of electricity, and is written in the simplest style so that a child can understand the wotk. It is what its title indicates, the first flight of steps in electricity. BY THE PUBLISHERS ^ »\ A R f r»f Plariririiv Now in its 62d thousand. By WM. ^ /\ U V/ Ul LylCClIlWll^. H. MUADOWCROFT. i volume, ^^ i2mo, cloth, SO cents Fully illustrated. ^ Scholars' A B C of Electricity. g^o™o?T ""gne 4 ^^ volume, 1 2mo, illustrated, cloth, so cents. ^L t The author of this work has designed it for the use of teach- jt ^^ ers and scholars. A large number of simple experiments have •^^ t been added, with notes relative to the work. It is the primary "i ^ji book for school use. ■^V ^^ A Most Importajit Work of General Interest. ■^^ Th/» Y Dnv • or, Photography of the Invisible and its Value lA^ I ue /V V^a^l , In Surgery By WILLIAM J. MORTON, M. ^ D. Written in collaboration with Edwin W. Hammer. .^L 1 volume, i2mo, cloth and silver, 7S cents; paper, 50 cents. "^ Everyone has been waiting for this work to give full infor 4^ mation of Professor Rontgen's marvellous discovery The work 2 explains in clear and simple style how these extraordinary pictures •^^ are taken through solids. Full description is given of the appar- ^ atus used, and the text is profusely illustrated with halftone illus- ^^ trations giving fac-simile copies ot the pictures taken from the 2 negatives of the author. The subjects are varied. •^^ f The A B C Of the X Ray. %^^^^: f^^^^^Z. f ^f cloth and gold, 75 cloth ; paper, 50 cents. ■^ »■ The first primary work on the subject. A book for the people. ^5 ^ The author of " A BC of Electricity," showed clearly in that work ^ A. bis ability to explain a technical subject for the laymen who know ^» ^ nothing of scientific terras. He has written this work about the X ^f <", Ray in his usual clear and simple style, and a wide circulation of ^4L Tp this useful book is assured. The texts of the author is beautifully ^if ^K embellished with fine engravings, and nothing is omitted that will ^t ^p give the public a clear knowledge of this remarkable discovery of '"^^ ^^ Prof. Rontgen. The public would do well to secure both of these ^t IP important works. '^T % The Art of Cooking by Gas. rAND^^T^^^t^et f ^ i2mo, paper, SO cents ; cloth, 75 cents. '^T ^j. A timely work by a recognized authority. This new book .^L ^ shows the economy, cleanliness and comfort of cooking by gas "^ ^^ There are nearly looo recipes which are excellent. This valuable i^ ^ work will save its price many times to all housekeepers. '-^ TP Any of the abor'e books sent, postpaid, on receipt of price •* 4* AMERICAN TECHNICAL BOOK CO. '^ T 45 VESEY STREET, NEW YORK. J KLONDYKE FACTS By JOSEPH LADUE Founder of Dawson City Is also published in fine cloth binding, and contains additional Maps and Illustrations, direct from photographs, of special value to the intending prospector, as follows : Portrait of Author A Miner's Camp on the Big Bonanza Fort Cudahy Ice Breaking up on the Yukon Internationai^ Boundary Line across the Yukon Junction of Forty Mile and Yukon Rivers Miles Canon Lake Lindeman Joseph Ladue's House White Horse Rapids The maps are of special value, being from the most recent government surveys. Maps of the entire Yukon River and its tributaries, showing Alaska and the Northwest in two sections drawn to a scale. Map of Forty Mile and Sixty Mile Rivers and their tributaries. Map showing the northern boundary of British Columbia and the Northwest Coast Range. The illustrations in this edition are beautifully printed on special surface paper from photo half-tone engravings. The cloth covers show a fac-simile reproduction in gold of one of the author's gold nuggets from the Klondyke. This edition can be taken by the prospector as the most reli- able and authentic guide for the trip to the gold regions. The cloth bound book is sent postpaid on receipt of fi.oo by tlie publishers. American Technical Book Company 45 Vesey Street New York, N. Y., U. S. A. Power.* & Stein Print, 185 Sixth Ave., N. Y. h ■r :im;'i^<^' ■^ ^ ^ V. w' - ■ ^"9.. 5;^ ^ ■ • :l LS?tiji*»'' -& .N^ ^^ ^>\^^^. %,/ 7- <3 ca * H<> cS ^. c ^* ... %