■9K- VW 4? V ^ **%> ^ b.V h - V *^\ /.-site * /^* ^ % *o. ^ < a*. 60 YEARS ON THE UPPEK MISSISSIPPI My L(ife and Experiences, »\ . BY S. W. McMASTEB, ROCK ISLAND, - - - ILLINOIS. 1893. ■" r\5 .m INDEX. My Life and Emigration to Galena, - " i Early Impressions of the Lead Mines and Sketches - 13 Two Years in St. Louis from 1834 to 1836, - - - 24 John W. Spencer's Sketches of Early Days in Rock Island 30 Sketches of some Early Settlers near Rock Island, - 48 Rock Island from 1836 to 1841, ----- 58 Completion of the C. & R. I. R. R. to Rock Island - 97 The Financial Panic of 1857, —._.-_-._ IOI The Removal from Rock Island to Galena in 1841, - 104 Sketches of some Leading Galena Men in Early Days, 108 Mormonism in Illinois, -119 Early Settlement of Towns along the River, - - 131 Noted Galena Men from 1840 to 1850, - 139 E^B. Washburn and C. S. Hempstead, - - - 141 Adventure with Indians on the Upper Mississippi, 148 Sketches of Prominent Men of St. Paul and Minneapolis, 155 Galena and Vicinity from 1850 to i860, - - - 168 Steamboating on the Upper Missisippi, - - - 185 Breaking out of the Rebellion. Incidents in Galena, 192 Noted Leadirg Men of Gale;aa, *'•-; ; ■■*• - - - 202 Galena in 1850,, , ; ,, ; -*« • 'I • - - - 205 My Sojourn in St. Louis building Grain Elevators, - 207 The Return fxom GaJedafG Reck Iil-anrKin 1866, J 215 Steamers on the Upper Miss'sp'ippi up *,i;o,'i874, - - 241 Harvest Hands Take Possession of a Steamboat, - 243 The R. I. & St. P. R. R. It's Origin and Progress, - 245 The Theological Department to Educate Young Men for the Ministry, 252 A Short Notice of Early Settlers in Rock Island County, 263 The Old Canal and the Hennepin, - 268 My Old Galena Home for a Quarter of a Century, - 273 Geology of Rock Island County, ... - 277 The Death of the Great Hungarian Patriot, - - - 280 Moral Extracts from Various Authors, ... 2 8^ Newspapers of Rock Island, - 287 Early Days in Southern Wisconsin. Sketches of some of the Early Pioneers, 290 THE PRINTER'S INTRODUCTION. Probably no man living is better qualified by experience and observation to write upon the early times on the Upper Mississippi than S. W. McMaster, the author of this book. While the work is titled "Sixty Years on the Upper Missis- sippi," the author has lived in this vicinity for more than sixty-two years, and now, at the age of 84 years, and in the possession of all his faculties, is enjoying the fruits of a well spent life at his pleasant home in Rock Island, Illinois. Engaged quite extensively in business in Galena for a quarter of a century, living also at different per- iods in St. Louis and Rock Island, and being a close observer of men and events, he enjoyed rare opportunities to become familiar withthe leading events of the times, and his active mind allowed none of these opportunities to pass unemployed. While in business in Galena, he traded quite ex- tensivelv with merchants in St. Paul and at other points on the Upper Mississippi, and made many extended tours through Wisconsin, Minnesota and the states bordering on the river. He enjoyed a personal acquaintance with nearly all the river captains, leading business men, statesmen and politicians, from St. Louis to St. Paul. A concise history of these eventful years on the Upper Mississippi, he entertainingly nar- rates in this volume. J. B. Brown. Galena, 111., Nov. 30, 1895. My Early Life and Emigration to Galena I was born near Watertown, in the State of New York, on Oct. the 8th, 1811. My father moved from there to Herkima county about 25 miles north from Little Falls, on the Mohawk river, in 1817, living some two years on my grandfather's farm which abutted on the west on the Trenton Falls a celebrated place of resort, a few years later, noted for its wild beautiful scen- ery and for a succession of falls some three of them, 20, 40 and 70 feet, cut through the solid Trenton lime stone, a narrow gorge two miles in length. It was first brought into notice by W. R. Sherman, who erected in 1822 a large com- modious hotel in the deep shady pine grove. In 1819 my father settled on what was called the Elm Flats in the town of Russia, Herkima county, the county was bounded on the north by the Adirondack. My earliest recollections center around a log house built of hewn spruce logs taken from a dense forest of spruce and fur trees, lying on the west side of the house, a heavy forest of Elm, Sugar Maple and Beech trees covering the whole farm of 120 acres; a small garden spot hewn out from the timber; a spring bubbling up through the pure white sand at the foot of a huge elm tree running away a short distance and forming a little lakelet full of speckled trout, I did not commence going to school until I was nearly eight years old. My father who was an educated man, teaching me at home whenever he could find time to spare from his ordinary labors in hewing out a farm from the heavy woods. Whatever education I received outside of the in- struction I received from my father, I acquired at the little log school house under the hill, two miles from my home. After 1 was 12 years old I stayed at home in the summer and fall helping my father on the farm, attending school only three months in the winter, and such winters as Ave then had — the snow usually three to four feet deep often covering the fences all out of sight. The school house was made out of rough logs, the spaces between being stopped with mortar made from clay- The seats were made from pine slabs, the rounded side down, supported with stout oak pins. The writing desk was a rough long one r occupying the whole rear of the house. The wood for fuel was furnished by the par- ents of the pupils; was usually green and burned in a wide open fire place. The children near the front when the fire was fairly started roasting, and those in the rear nearly freezing, seats had to be exchanged often. Spelling, reading, writ- ing, grammar and arithmetic were taught, with these surroundings and appliances and under all these difficultes I succeeded in obtaining a fair knowledge of the branches taught. 3 When I was in my nineteenth year the trustees of my home district called on me to take the place of a teacher who they had to discharge. It was a rather difficult position to fill, but I suc- ceeded fairly well considering my pupils many of whom were older then myself and had been my schoolmates of the winter before. My compensation for the three months teaching was twenty dollars per month, and I boarded at home. • I taught two winters more in my immediate neighborhood, getting a somewhat better compen- sation as I boarded round with some of the best families, who did not mind if I overstaid my time a week or so. I boarded two weeks or more with William Ferris, the grandfather of George W. Ferris of the famous Ferris wheel the admir- ation of all who visited the world's fair. His father and his father's sister wore both pupils of mine. His father lives in Idaho. A few years ago I gave one of our bright teachers an open let- ter of introduction, she had been written to about a situation out there. She found my pupil of olden time to be one of the trustees of the school she expected to take. She was well received and in a year or two married a very worthy gentle- men. They are now both living at Tacornah, Washington. Her husband is a prosperous mer- chant. The grandfather Wm. Ferris, Professor Gale and a Dr. Coons and some others came out to Galesburg and founded that town and the col- lege in 1839. I met Mr. Ferris a number of times in early days at Rock Island and also at Galena, entering land there. Mr. Burchard, who in after years at the political gathering in New York dur- ing the contest between Jas. G. Blaine andGrover Cleveland used those fateful words in a speech that he made at that meeting, "Rum, Romanism and Rebellion," which no doubt decided the elec- tion in favor of Cleveland, by changing thousands of Irish Catholic votes in New York. This man who was then 18 years of age, taught school in an adjoining district. We often visited each other, and met when our schools came together for spelling contests. He was ji genial bright young man, very religious, often holding prayer meet- ings with his pupils after school hours. The grandfather of Guiteau the assassin of lamented Garfield, lived only a few miles west of me in the adjoining county of Oneida. He was somewhat celebrated as a physician. In the winter of 1832-33 while boarding at the house of Daniel Philleo, I met Dr. Addeson Philleo, who had been residing in Galena for some years and established the first newspaper at that place. He gave us such a glowing description of this far away Western country, and particularly of the lead mine district, that I made up my mind to start for that New Eldorado of the West in the spring. My very good friend Dr. Bowen was al- ways urging to "go west young man." The doc- tor a few years latter settled first at Jolliette and afterwards at Marsalles, in Illinois. After I closed ray school I made all ray ar- rangements to start the first of May. I had a good strong suit of home-made clothes, the wool made from fleeces of sheep raised on the farm. The cloth spun and wove by my good mother. My small outfit was packed in a wooden trunk, which I have yet, and after settling up everything, I had thirty-five dollars left for my journey to the Western worlds. My wanderings before this had never extended farther than Utica, fifteen miles away. I took cabin passage on a canal boat at Herkimer on the Mohawk river for Buffalo and thence across the lake to Cleveland, Ohio; an- other canal ride from Cleveland to Portsmouth on the Ohio river. I took passage on an Ohio river steam boat bound for St. Louis. One night I was awakened, hearing a wild strange sort of music made by the negro firemen; being the first I ever heard, it made a strong im- pression on me. From St. Louis I took passage to Quincy, the termination of the boat's trip. Here, running out of funds I stopped for two weeks, and was employ- ed by the landlord of the only hotel in the place. It faced the large public square around which was gathered the most of the population of the place, the houses all facing the square then as now. From here I took passage on the steamer Warrior, Wm. Thockmorton commander, for Ga- lena. He was perhaps the most noted Capt. on the upper river, commanding a number of dif- ferent boats for over forty years. His last service was on the U. 8. steamer in 1873, he died soon after this date. I arived at Galena towards the last of June. I had letters of introduction from my friend Dr. Bowen to his brother, Luther H. Boweu, and Dr. Philleo Luther H. Bowen was employed as a bookkeeper in the largest mercantile store in the little city. They were doing a large and exten- sive business and employed some four or five clerks. He obtained for me temporary employ- ment with the firm of Little & Wann. They came to Galena in 1828, from Baltimore, Md. Their store occupied the present site of the bank af Galena founded by the Corwith brothers, Henry ami Nathan. They both moved to Chi- cago many years ago taking a leading part in the commercial and financial affairs of that city. They were both warm friends of mine during all my long sojourn in Galena and have gone to a bet- ter and brighter state of existence. The first night after my arrival at Galena 1 lodged with my friend Bowen in the upper story of the store, which opened out on Bench street, some 20 ft. or more above Main street. Opposite on Bench street was the land office. All through the night I heard the chink of coin in a room adjoining the office. Gambling was carried on there almost every night, the officers of the office participating in the game. The receiver usually taking a hand in the game. The result was a heavy defalcation at the end of his term of office. I was employed a few weeks by Little & Wann. when I was en- gaged as a elerk in the house of Campbell and Morehouse, a new firm just starting in the dry goods trade. Geo. YV. Campbell of this firm was a good friend of mine, who moved to Chicago many years ago and died their in 1882. D. B. Morehouse in after years had command of a num- ber of steam boats engaged in the trade of the upper Mississippi. Everything was new and strange to me. The picturesque hills, the many small stores scattered along the muddy Main street— the many dwellings perched along the base of the steep bluffs that hemmed in the little busy town— the little sluggish winding river — the many mounds rearing their rugged summits some 150 feet above the general level of the country. The long string of heavily laden ox team-; winding their way down Frank- lin an 1 Miin streets loa.le 1 with piglead, deposit- ed on the steep narrow levee, sent in from various furnaces of the country. The loud cracking (like pistol shotsi of the teamster's long whips over I he ]>a -ks of their team of 5 to 7 yoke of oxen, as they slowly made their *vav down Franklin street. All these new strange scenes impressed me, a tender-foot strangely. I found all the people with whom I came in contact, very nice and hospitable, ready to lend a helping hand to a stranger. Among the many friends and associates of that early day T would mention George and B. H. Campbell, L. H. Bowen, Win. A. Jordon, John Dean, Fred Stahl, R. W. Brush, Augustus Scott,. a brother of Mrs. B. H. Campbell, Charles and Edward Gratiot, Charles and William Hemp- stead and John A. Clark, a government surveyor, who many years after, under Gen. Grant's ad- ministration wasappointed surveyor Gen .of Utah, and last but not least my old time friend, Gen. G. W. Jones, who at this time lived at Sinsinawa Mound engaged in mining. I often went out to his hospitable and pleasant home to see his neices, Mary and Eliza Brady. Mary married Dr. Wyeth, and Eliza, G. W. Campbell a few years after. Gen. Jones is the only one of all the many whom I knew in those early days, who still survives. He is living in Dubuque, at the ad- vanced age of 89 years, still genial and affable as ever. The only church we had at that time was a hewn log structure standing a little west of the present site of the Second Presbyterian church, Father Kent officiated as minister. One day a number of us young men just before church time were sitting in a row on a long bench in the church, with friend Fred Stahl at the head, when he casting his eye down the row remarked, "where can you find a finer looking set of young men. Among them wereSam'l T. duff, W. A. Jordon, B. H. Campbell, Joseph Dean, I. P. Farley, Augustus Scott and myself, and some others whose names I do not recollect. Wm. 8. Hamilton a sou of Alexander Hamil- ton, secretary ol the treasury under Washington, who lived at what was then called Hamilton diggings in Wisconsin, about 25 miles northeast from Galena, frequently came into town and usually would find lodging in a room over Little & Wann's store. He usually came to town in a suit of buckskin, and whenever he wanted to visit the ladies he would forage in the wardrobe of the clerks in the store for whatever he wanted. One night he came in rather late and found George Mitchell, a new clerk, a gentlemanly young Irish- man in the bed that he usually occupied. George rather resented the intrusion, and said, who are you sir? Hamilton answered, I am Col. William S. Hamilton, a son of Alexander Hamilton, and now who the h 1 are you ? I am George Mit- chell, of Baltimore, and I think you are making yourself d — d familiar for a stranger. They passed the night peaceably and were fast friends ever after. Sometime in 1834 I went out to the Col.'s place of abode on business for my employ- 10 ers. Some fifteen miles was over a broad rolling beautiful prairie, without any settlement, and we had only a dim track most of the way. I saw on my way a number of deer bounding away over the prairie. This was the first large prairie that ] had seen, being in June it was covered with masses of bright flowers, I enjoyed the ride inten- sley. I arrived at the Col. J s house near night and took lodging with him on a bunk in his bachelor quarters. In the morning I rose early and went out a short distance into the heavy woods to a large spring. I found at the spring two beautiful young ladies performing their morning ablutions. I was astonished at this unexpected vision of beauty in the Wisconsin wilds, taken aback and felt like beating a retreat. Upon inquiring of them who they were, they told me they were the neices of William Strawbridge, and that theirhome was in Springfield, 111., and they were visiting at the home of Joseph Baily, who lived near by. William Strawbridge was a well-to-do miner and smelter, a relation of my wife. He after this married the widow of George Eames the brother of my wife's mother, Mrs. W . Brooks. George Eames was killed in the Black Hawk War while helping to defend the Block house near Elizabeth, 15 miles east of Galena. William Strawbridge took the gold fever and with hundreds of other Galenaians went to Cali- 11 fornia in 1850, and died on his way home in 1853. Col. Hamilton becoming somewhat embarrass- ed in his mining operations also went to Califor- nia, and died there in about 1856. His aged mother visited him at Galena sometime in the 40s. and I then saw her. One more reminsicenee about the genial Colonel. He was a volunteer in the Black Hawk War. and was in command of a regiment. Some disagreement arose between him and Maj. Henry Dodge. (lie was not a gen- eral then.) lint was called so by Dr. Philleo, who was on his staff' as a correspondent tor his Galena paper. Some angry words were passed between theim-and Dodge handed a pistol to Hamilton and told him to defend himself. Col. Hamilton says to him "my country needs my services now, but as soon as the war is over I will be at your service." Xo hostile meeting ever took place be- tween them, and they were good friends ever after. The reputation that Governor Dodge acquired in the Black Hawk War. was largely due to the let- ters that Dr. Philleo sent to his paper, the Galenian. This was the only newspaper north of St. Louis or east of Detroit, and these articles were largely copied by Eastern papers. He was a brave honest man, ami filled the office of territory government very creditably. The appointment to this office was due mainly t<> the influence of his warm friend. G. W. Jones, who was territorial delegate under the Jackson administration, and when the 12 old general requested him to name asuitable man for the office, who was a resident, he named Henry Dodge. Governor Dodge was at sometime after this often spoken of as a candidate of the Demo- crats for the presidency. I knew his son, Augus- tus C, at this time and later as senator from Iowa, and minister to Spain. I also knew and often met some of his sons-in-law, John Dement, Mires F. Truett and Paschal Bequett, all prominent men of mark and influence. Mires F. Truett was a leading merchant in Galena for a number of years. About 1850 he emigrated to California. During the troublous times in San- Francisco, caused by the thugs and outlaws gath- ered there, he took a leading part in forming the vigilants and many of these meetings were held over his store, and some of the miscreants were hung from a beam ran out from the upper story. He was so prominent that Mat Mahoney, one of the gamblers, who was driven out of the city, a few years after when Truett was in New York had him arrested and gave him a good deal of trouble. Mat had a good deal of influence as he belonged to the Tamany Ring, who have always abetted and shielded this class of Harpies, big or little. Big like Twede, and little like Mat Ma- honey. ( This ends record of my two years at Galena in 1833 and 1834, void.) 13 Early Impressions of the Lead Mines and Sketches. Jo Daviess county in 1833 included a number of counties in the northwest part of the state, and Galena was the commercial centerof all the north- ern part of the state at this time, and for many years afterwards. Chicago was only just coming into notice. It was the only place where money that is real money — gold and silver could be ob- tained. No other currency would pass in the lead mining district for many years after. In the spring as soon as the grass was good, heavy ox teams hitched to what was called a prairie schooner, heavy covered Pennsylvania wagons would be seen wending their way across the broad prairies that were found between San- gamon and Jo Daviess counties, bound for Galena the Eldorado of the northwest. They would usu- ally be loaded with flour and bacon for their own use during the summer and a portion would be sold at Galena. They usually hauled the lead from the furnaces scattered over the country by the 1,000 lbs., carrying often as high as 60,000 fbs. Their large wagons was their home while here, the only home they had, sleeping in them at night, and usually taking their meals camp- ing by some spring or stream on their route. A jolly jovial set — generally very illiterate, but with shrewd common sense. Nearly all the interior transportation of the mining district was done by these suckers from the middle and southern part 14 of the state for many years, until the advent of railroads. They took a great deal of pride in their whips, with lashes long enough to reach the farthest ox in the team. The one that could make the loudest crack of any of the crowd as they came down the long steep hills into town was the boss. The population of Galena was a motley one, made up generally of men mostly of energy and intelligence, who breaking away from their far distant homes came here to better their fortune, coming from nearly every state in the union. Many Cornish men from old England, with their broad accent. Gamblers and gambling saloons, and low Irish doggeries abounded. The whole country was dotted with mineral holes and was swarming with miners, hunting the precious metal. Some of them toiling for years and finding barety enough for asubsistance, and once in a while one who would blunder upon a lead that was a fortune. It was often said in after days that the average daily wages of all the miners engaged in mining would not exceed twenty-five cents per day. The miner was always bouyed up by hope, expecting from day to day to strike a lead. A notable instance of a lead struck a little east of the city; the father had been sinking a shaft and tunneling four or five years, the mother and daughters had been earn- ing money by sewing to support the family in 15 the mean time. The father became discouraged and said he would quit. The old lady says no we have enough money left to buy one more keg of powder. Try again. The next week the old man struck big mineral — enough to make all the family well oft' for life. It was known as the Whit-ham Lead, Mr. Whitham was a very worthy Englishman, much respected. A life long mem- ber of the Methodist church. The men who were the most successful in min- ing operations, were persons who were well post- ed in the business, and had the means to buy out new discoveries. Many fortunes were made in this way. ('apt. Smith Harris was a very successful miner all through his long eventfal life. He usually struck his own leads, and nearly every winter when the boating season was over, he would pass the winter in mining. Up to his 76th year, after he had left the river, when his favorite boat, the Gray Eagle was sunk at the Rock Island bridge, in 1857, he often would go down to his diggings below town and put in the time wielding the pick drifting for mineral. He was one of the best and most successful of our upper river captains, and always run fast boats. The West Newton. The War Eagle and the Grey Eagle were very fast and popular boats. He was a good reliable man, performing his part in life in whatever pos- ition he was placed. R. S. Harris, his brother, 16 ' who died some years ago in Dubuque was inter- ested with him in most of the boats as well as other boats not mentioned. Capt. Harris died in 1892 at the advanced age of 86, retaining his faculties to the last. He was my near neighbor for many years and I had a long pleasant inter- view with him only three or four months before his death. Nearly all the traffic of the upper river center- ed at this time and all told did not amount to much compared with that of later years. Most of the boats coming here were from Pittsburg and Cincinnati, bringing around nails, iron, lumber glass and groceries from St. Louis, and taking on cargeos of lead on their return, mostly for St. Louis. Occasionally a boat would come up the river loaded with supplies for the different government military ports. Fort Armstrong at Rock Island, Fort Crawford at Prairie DuChien, and Fort Snelling at the junction of the Minnesota and Mississippi rivers. A strong force was usually kept at these forts, usually at least a full regiment. It was neccessary in order to keep the Indians quiet. The Sacs and Foxes, Pottawattomies, Win- nebago, Kickapoos, and Chippeewas on the east side of the Mississippi. The powerful Sioux na- tion with their various tribes, occupied all north- ern Iowa and Minnesota, a restless marauding powerful tribe, always warring on the neighbor- 17 ing tribes, these all needed constant watching. Boats did not run with any regularity, usually one or two arrivals each week. They wended their way up the little crooked river six miles be- fore they reached the lead city of the hills. A deep clear stream with many deep pools not at all difficult to navigate in these early days before the wash from the mineral holes and plowed ground on the hills had filled it up. In the early days of Galena, sometimes the river would close early before sufficient supplies for the winter were laid in, and before spring, prices would be- come very high. One winter,"*1831 I think, the supply of flour was very short, the most of it was in the hands of the old Frenchman Bothillier, who lived on the East Side of the river. He had been an Indian trader for some years. He at this time had nearly all the flour in the town and kept advancing the price from eight dollars to ten, twelve, sixteen, and finally by the middle of January twenty dollars was his price, and still he had quite a quantity on had and the people had to pay his price. But providence or the ele- ments were against the old Frenchman. A heavy thaw set in continuing some two weeks, opening navigation from St. Louis to Galena, One morn 3 ing early the old Frenchman peering down the river saw a steamboat rounding the point below town. "What, steamboat in the wint, who IS the debil ever saw a steamboat in the win t before." Flour was ten dollars per barrel after this, and spring navigation kept open only, occasionally a little iee running. It proved a God send ,to the people, as all the necessaries of life were becoming scarce and dear. Sometime in 1832 during the Black Hawk War a company of volunteers under the command of Col. Strode were encamped on the hill back of the town. The Col. got the idea in his head that the Galenians we becoming tocareless about dan- ger from the Indians, so he concluded lie would give them a scare, and alongabout midnight loud firing of musketry and cannon were heard. The cry was raised, The Indians! The Indians are upon us! Men, women and children were awakened from their slumbers and rushed in their night clothes pell mell for the Block house that stood near the intersection of Bench and Diagonal St. Some were seen praying. All rushed into the small Block house so thatthere was hardly stand- ing room for them. They passed a most miser- able night,, as 1 have been told by those who were cooped up there. In the morning there was some tall swearing when it was ascertained that it was a false alarm and further that there were no Indians within one hundred miles of Galena. No one of the company on the hill would own up as to how the alarm started.. The old Block house was standing as late as 1850. 19 Col. Strode and Col. Jas. W.Stevenson were both engaged in a battle orscare of what was call- ed Still nraris run, which occurred near the north of the Kesbwaukee a small stream emptying into Rock river some thirty miles above Dixon. It was a regular stampede on the part of our volun- teers. The only wonder was that so few of our troops were killed, (only 16) as all or nearly all of Black Hawk's forces were engaged in the battle. Gov. Ford in his history of Ills., tells an amusing story about the battle as related by a Kentucky Col. (Col. Strode is the one meant.) About serried ranks of Black Hawk's forces sweeping down upon the right and left wings of our troops and the overwhelming force of Indian Cavalry that by their resistless charge spread terror and dismay in our ranks. The Col. was one of the first to flee into the tall timber, in the dark night. After tiering some distance he dismounted and hitching his horse to a sapling to rest and recou- noiter, he thought he saw an Indian approaching. He sprang on his horse's back without unhitch- ing and putting the spurs to his horse, started away, but the horse being hitched kept curling- round, every time he came round the Col. would cry out, Don'tshoot Mr. Indian! Don't shoot! J sur- render. The Indian turned out to be a tall black stump. The story may have been true. Al- though the redoubtable Col. was not defficient in courage yet he was a great boaster, somewhat like 20 Iago in Hiawatha. But after all he was a gen- ial man and was generally liked. He was very fond of being referred to for information about the surrounding country. Some New England man was making inquiries of Col. A. G. S. Wight, the Col. being somewhat of a wag, referred him to Strode and told him to inquire about the Kesh- waukee country. The stranger told him that he had been referred to him as one who was well posted about all the surrounding country. The Col. said he was thoroughly posted. Well, could he tell about the country near Keshwaukee. His reply was a very -vulgar one and will not look well in print. Tell the man who referred you to me to go to h 1. The stranger was horrified, and told the story of his reception by the Col. to his friends much to the amusemust of Col. Wight. There were many amusing incidents as well as tragic ones in connection with this war. When the Indians first started out on the war path from Prophetstown, forty miles above Rock Island, they broke up into small detached bands thus multiplying their apparent numbers, spread- ing terror and alarm through the whole Rock River valley, and through all the country between Rock and Wisconsin rivers, striking one day on some point near Rock river and next at some point near Galena. When the Illinois volunteers had their forces concentrated and driven the sav- ages well north, they were straining every nerve 21 to reach the Mississippi river north of the Wis- consin, to make their escape into what is now Iow r a. The whole effective force that Black Hawk had any time, did not exceed six hundred, and he was hampered with the wives and little ones. The Illinois volunteers numbered about three thou- sand two hundred, and done nearly all the effec- tive fighting even after the arrival of one thousand U. S. troops, before the final capture and disper- sion of the Indians. The volunteers under Gen. Henry struck the first fatal blow at Bad Axe, while Gen. Atkinson with his troops was out on a false trail farther up the river. Taken altogether it was a most in- glories and expensive war. Our volunteers suf- ferred very severely towards the close from the want of supplies. Many of them lost their lives, and many families scattered over the area of the war were decimated. But finally the remnant of the Black Hawk forces were captured or destroyed at the battle of Bad Axe. Many canoes loaded with women and children were sunk and destroyed by the steamer Warrior, Capt. Thockmorton, my old time friend. He at this time always carried muskets and six powder cannons, as he carried nearly ail the sup- plies for the Forts on the Upper Mississippi. Black Hawk and a few of the principal chiefs were taken and escorted to Washington in order 22 that they might form a proper estimate of the power and might of r. S. Black Hawk and his Sacs and Foxes were not much to be blamed for their attachment to the beautiful country in which they sojourned on the banks of the beauti- ful Rock. The site of their main village stretch- ing along from the mouth of the river, covering the broad level prairie and the slopes of the wood- ed hills lying back of the cities of Rock Island and Moline, for scenic beauty, stands unequalled in all the great valley. The sale made at St. Louis in 1816 by a few chiefs who were never recognized as having any authority was not considered binding. But the U. S. Govt, had the land surveyed, declared open for settlement, and in 1832 quite a number of families, mostly from the New England states had entered and occupied most of the land bordering the mouth of Rock River and along the banks of the Mississippi for some miles. Very many of these early New England people 1 knew in after years, of these hardy pioneers something will be said farther on. The currency in use in the lead mine district in 1832 and for many years after, was gold and sil- ver, mostly foreign coins. The sovereign, the par value of which was $4.87| invariably passed in all home transaction at $4.90. The silver coin was mostly in 5 franks, passing at 93c. The min- ers would not touch paper money. There was 23 verv little of U. S. coin in circulation, as these foreign coins passing for little more than their intrinsic value, kept the other out. Spanish quarters, half quarters, called hits and half bits called picaunes, formed the small change. A copper coin was a curiosity in those early days. When the V. S. commenced coining ten cent pieces, a number of enterprising eastern people brought them out, passing them lor 12J cents for sometime. Merchants were in the habit of giving almost unlimited credit, particularly to miners and smel- ters. If a hard fisted miner came into town with clothes ail stained up with the yellow clay of the mines and wanted anything on credit he almost . invariably got it. This system of almost unlimited credit could end in but one way eventually, that is. in embarrass- ment and bankruptcy. Quite a number of merchants who were doing an apparently prosperous business in 1833 and L834, became embarrassed and went out of busi- ness. Th ' lea lin-- h >uses in business in 1833 to 1836 were Little & Wan n, Campbell and Morehouse,. G. W. & I. Uchison, William Hempstead, Farns- worth ct Fergeson, John Dowling, John £ Sewell Lorrain. M. C. Comstock and R. VV. Brash. 24 Two Years in St. Louis. My Residence in St. Louis From 1834 to 1836. In the fall of 1834, I left my position with Campbell & Morehouse in Galena, and went to St. Louis taking a clerkship with the firm of Hemp- stead & Beebe. William Hempstead of the firm, I knew in Galena. They opened a wholesale grocery and commission house on the levee, or Front St. For some years they received and for- warded most of the lead that was shipped from Galena for New Orleans and Pittsburg. St. Louis had a population at this time of about 20,000 to 25,000, and done an immense amount of business for a city of this size. It was the cen- ter and distributing point for all the northwest. Thetrade from the upper Mississippi, the immense fur trade of the upper Missouri, the trade from the Illinois river, from Pittsburg by way of the Ohio. Most of the goods shipped from the east- ern states by the way of New Orleans, as well as all the foreign trade centering at New Orleans, alL found their way to St. Louis as the distributing point of the vast, but thinly settled territory. The majority of the people were French, very many of them speaking no other language. It was an amusing scene that met one who attended the large public market located at the the foot of Mar- ket street near the river front. The French hab- 25 itants from Vide Porseh, now called Corundalet would all be there with their little quaint carts ' loaded with vegetables or little loads of wood, the unvaring price of which was six bits. If you of- fered them 75 cents, the reply would be, no, no, six bit. The men and women would keep up a constant chattering, gesticulating and shrugging their shoulders, as they were making bargains with their customers for their various wares. Even at this early day there were many large, magnifi- cent steamers engaged in the New Orleans trade, and the levee was usually closely packed with steamers from all directions. The heavy whole- sale grocery and commission houses were scatter- ed all along the levee from Market street, north to Washington street. The dry goods and hardware houses were the most of them found along the line of Market street, which was at this time only built up as far back as Sixth street. Fourth St., was quite compactly built up some four or five blocks above Market. The Planters house was built on this street in 1836. The court house occupied the same site as at the present, but on a much smaller scale. The larger share of the business previous to this time had been in the hands of the wealthy French settlers. There had begun to be quite an .influx of good business men from other states, some from the Southern states, but very many of those who were enterprising came from New England. Among the number whom I recall were L. cv A. G. Farwell. the Belchers, who built the sugar re- finery, Hood and Abbott, I. S. Skinner, L. & G. Krskine. Along the levee engaged in the whole- sale grocery business, I. A: E. Walsh, Von Plul & McGill, E. & A. Tracy, Hempstead & Beebe. Win. G. Elliott, the Unitarian preacher, who <-ani<' there in 1834, who became a power for good in building up educational and scientific in- stitutions. Dr. Potts the Presbyterian had charge of a large flourishing church Wayman ('row another large minded liberal man, who in after days took such an active part in building up the mercantile library, was living here at the time. Thos. II. Benton, I saw only once, his house was in the outskirts of the city, on Biddle St., at the base of the St. Louis mound, a moderate sized two story building, it wasstill standing in 1864 perch- ed high up above the street. The mound was all leveled down many years ago. Thurston Polk, a nephew of Prest. Polk came to St. Louis in 1835. Most of these men whose names I have mentioned 1 knew personally. Some others I recall. Henry < J. Soulard and his brother, the Dr., I also knew the mother of them all. and met her at the homestead in 1835, she was then So years old. Geo. Knapp, so long the editor of the Republican was a fellow boarder with me in 1835. Theadore Magill and family, his wife's sisters, the Miss Tessons, Capt. ('alien- 27 da, who was the commander at Jefferson bar- racks, I knew and frequently spent an evening with them, playing a social game of whist. They lived on Market street, between Fifth and Sixth streets, near Col. Johnson, who had two beautiful half breed daughters, one of whom in after years married Capt. Gleim, the old time clerk of Cap- tain Thockmorton, who for so many years com- manded a number of boats on the upper Mis- sissippi. One day when 1 was on the levee shipping goods I saw persons rushing up the steep bank in pursuit of a negro man. He had got into an al- tercation with some one, aud an officer undertook to arrest him. He resisted and knocking the of- ficers hat off, tied up the levee, but was overtaken. When the officer told him that he should take him to the calaboose, he drew a huge bowie knife and struck the officer across the abdomen, inflict- ing a mortal wound, he then rushed up Olive street pursued by a crowd, turning south on Fourth street; as he passed the court house, a dep- uty sheriff rushed out and took hold of him: the negro struck him in the neck with hismurderous knife and nearly severed his head from his body. The brave officer fell weltering in his blood on the sidewalk. It was near supper time and hun- dreds were passing at the time. The desperado was filially disabled by a brick bat, and taken and carried to the calaboose. Soon after supper I 28 heard an uproar in the street, Cries of "to the cala- boose!" "To the calaboose!" The crowd took the negro out and in less than fifteen minutes he was firmly bound by a strong chain to a scrub oak, on the line of Seventh street, young negroes bring- ing shavings and fence rails, which were heaped around him. The scene was on slopeing ground and the tree to which he was bound was at the foot of the slope. The whole side of the hill was covered with the dense crowd. As soon as the torch was applied and the flames encircled his body he commenced singing in a loud voice his death song. Young Meseray who was a recent arrival from Boston raised the cry, "shoot him!" "shoot him!" The counter cry of "burn him !" "burn him !" was echoed by nearly all the vast crowd. The flames were fierce and strong, and the agony of the negro wassoon over. Eastern papers at the time strongly critisized the St. Louis people for the act, but the provocation was very great, both of the officers were men much respected. I knew the deputy sheriff well, he was the brother-in-law of my old time friend, Mortomer Kennett. Another incident on the levee while I was liv- ing in St. Louis. The negro roustabouts were rolling some casks of bacon down the steep bank for shipment on a New Orleans boat. Singing their merry songs with the chorus, when they heard a weak faint voice coming apparently from 29 (lie cask. "Don't, Don't, you hurt me." One of the darkies said, "what dat ! in the cask." Another said, "sho noting in de cask, go ahead". Another roll and another louder cry of "Let me out!" "Let me out !" "Dere is a man in that cask shur. Turn up the cask — get hatchet and open the cask and let de poor man out." The cask was opened and the bacon thrown out piece by piece in great haste and nothing found. They all rushed on to the boat saying, "that cask Hoodo shur." Signor Blitz the celebrated prestidigitator and ventriloquist, with two others of his friends were by enjoying the fun. In 1837 there were a series of robberies perpe- trated along the river from St. Louis to Galena, and for sometime no clue could be found to them. The last and worst was the attempt to rob the bank of Collier & Pettus, located on Olive street, between 3d and 4th sts., which resulted in the murder of two of the clerks who were sleeping in the adjoining room, and then the bank was set on fire to conceal the murder. The robbers did not obtain anything. Detectives were set at work, who finally ascer- tained that all these robberies along the river had been done by two or three colored men employed on the boats. One of the number after his con- viction made a full confession, telling of a num- ber of robberies committed along the river when- ever the boat they were on^was lying by a night. 30 Among the rest was an old rattle trap safe they looted in Galena, belonging to my friends, B. H. Campbell and Miers F. Truett. W. G. Pettus, whose clerks were murdered was my employer in a store at the corner of Market and Fourth streets. John W Spencer's Sketches of Early Days in Rock Island. 1 have mentioned John W. Spencer's name and given a partial history of his connection with the early history of the town. I will add some furth- er particulars about him, mostly condenced from a short history written some years ago. a few years before his death. Dictated by him to his daughter Mary, the wife of T. Tyler Robinson. He left Vermont in 1820 for St. Louis, Mo. From there he went with some of his relatives into Green Co., Illinois, to secure their claims, While living in this part of the claim, Alton 40 miles away, was the nearest postoffice. In 1827 he went to the Galena lead mines to try his luck there, passing Rock Island on his way up the river in March, and returning late in the summer. In the fall of 1828 he went to Morgan county 12 miles from Jacksonville. Rennah Wills in pass- ing down from Galena stopped with him over night, and told him that the Indians had left their old village at Rock Island. We both liked the country very much when we passed. In less 31 than a week lie and London Case, Sr., were on the way to learn if the Indians had left. On the way we met a Mr. Pence, who was on his way with a load of corn from Peoria for Judge Spence, who was just moving to the old Indian village on Rock River. They reached Rock River the 9th of December, and found Judge looking for a ford. We crossed about sundown and found several wigwams, in the largest we passed the night. In the morning we looked for a better wigwam and found one which proved to be Black Hawk's, a very comfortable one made of bark, large and roomy. On their arrival they found no Indians, they were all absent on their winter's hunt. We found here two white families, near the old Far- nam house (just below the Cable residence) (apt. Louis Clark, of Buffalo Scott Co., and a man named Harvey. Near Rapids City, were John and Thos. Kinney, Archibald Allen and Conrad Leak. These were all the settlers on the main land. North, about 70 miles, the Davidson family near Savanna. Two miles below New Boston, the Denisons, on the lower Rapids the family of old Jim White (The father of three or four noted river pilots in after years.) Soon after he came to Rock Island his business taking him to Galena, the officers at the garrison being anxious to hear the result of the election of 1828, arranged to have him carry the mail to Galena, and all in return, for which he was to receive $5.00. He made the 32 trip on foot, taking a pair of skates along, his first night was at the head of the Rapids, the next stopping would be at Davidson's, 50 miles. He met during the day a large party of Winnebagos, passed through them without any trouble, skat- ing along on a la^ge pond, the skates seemed to astonish the Indians. He could not cross Plumb river and was obliged to camp out, he succeeded in making a fire and in the morning crossed the river above where the ice was good, not going to Davidson's at all. He reached Galena safely, ex- changed mails and started on his return trip about noon Christmas, stopped all nightata wood chopper's hut. The next morning took breakfast at Davidson's. The next night he camped near the Meridocia, he heard the wolves walking about him all night and the Indian dogs barking on an island near by. The next day he reached the Fort, bringing the mail, giving the news of the election of Gen. Jackson. After coming here in the fall of 1827, and mak- ing a selection of a farm, he moved from Mor- gan county and arrived here on the first day of March, 1829. There was no house to be seen, so he hunted up a wigwam, finding one on the bluff near where Henry Case now lives. The same spring London Case and his three sons, Jonah, London and Charles came and settled on the old Case place. Rennah Wills and his four sons, and Joshua Vandruff settled on Rock River, in S3 January, before Joel Wills settled near Hampton. In the spring Joel Wills Sr., and Levi and Hunt- ington Wills settled at Moline, Joseph Danforth son-in-law of Ren nah Wills a short distance above. Michael 0. Bartlett above where the quilt factory stands. About the last of May Mr. Goble and. his son Ben, settling just above Danforth. Win. T. Brashar settled on the farm bearing his name. But a few days elapsed when two Indians came, the first we had seen. One of them commenced talking in a loud voice pointing to his wigwam, saying "Sanki Wigeop," pointing to the ground, saying "Sanku Anihe" claiming the wigwam and the land. This man proved to be Black Hawk. The first he went to was his own wigwam occupied by Judge Spence near Rock River. They had never heard of Black Hawk. He seemed to be very much troubled at finding his wigwam occu- pied. About six weeks after Black Hawk returned with his Indians, about two hundred of them, all young men, mounted, they rode round Judge Spence's house, (he had built a cabin and left Black Hawk's wigwam.) Mrs. Spence was very much alarmed being alone with her children. She sent one of the children to the fort, ('apt. Nelson in command sent the interpreter Antonie Seclair down, who told them they must behave or the soldiers at the fort would be after them. They became quiet after this, with the excep- tion of a little trouble with Rennah Wills. 34 They had corn fields all along the base of the bluffs, the corn being planted in raised hills at first, and added to from year to year, look- ing like small mounds, some of them were plainly to be seen forty years after. They also raised a good many beans and squashes. The work of cultivation was done almost entirely by the squaws and children. They had slight fences, only which would turn cattle and hogs away. Chief Keokuk in the spring when the corn was up about knee high called on the white settlers and requesed them them to keep the cattle up nights as the Indian fences were so poor. They all complied except Rennah Wills, who thought it to much trouble. When the corn was large enough for roasting ears, Wills cattle broke into and destroyed the corn of a number of Indian families one or two nights. Mr. Wills had corn on the opposite side of the road, the next time the Indians turned Wills cattle into his field. Wills kept his cattle up after this. He became very well accquainted with Black Hawk, living less than a quarter of a mile from him all one sum- mer. He was a man of medium size, about 60 years of age, a very quiet peaceable neighbor and a strong temperance man. He made a visit with a few of his braves to a man who was selling whisky to his Indians. He rolled the whisky barrels out doors and knocked in the heads. The agent told him he might get himself into trouble if he done it any more. This discouraged him in his efforts to save his braves from the evils of strong drink. Before the war with the whites he always wore the usual Indian costume. After the war he wore the white man's dress. The Indians left for their usual fall and winter hunts about the fifteenth of September, and all left the same day. The Sacs and Foxes owned the lands jointly; when they traveled they had separate camps. The Foxes while living here oc- cupied the land from Jonah Case's place up as far as Wm. Brooks'. The Foxes had mostly left be- fore the whites came, except a few who had inter- married with the Sacs and they had villages at Princeton, Bellevue and Dubuque. In starting for their huntinggrounds down the river they took with them five or six hundred horses and about two hundred canoes, ascending the Iowa, Skunk and Des Moines rivers, and smaller streams that would admit a canoe. After the fall hunt they had a rendezvous appointed where all were to meet, making sometimes temporary forts as a protection against their enemies, the Sioux. After making their maple sugar in the spring they were ready to return to their old village at Rock Island. They would all meet near the mouth of the Iowa river and starting from there with their horses and canoes would proceed slowly and orderly under a leader up the river usually making eight or ten miles a day. They would arrive here at the same 36 hour. They brought home little besides maple sugar and dried meat, having sold their pelting and furs to the traders along the river. Now they commenced looking for their corn and beans which they had cached the season before. They usually found them all right, as they had a way of so covering up all signs of their caches that is very difficult for any one else to find them. Some- times the thieving Winnebagos whom they hated, (and nothing would displease a Sauke more than to call him a Winnebago) would, sticking their spear in the ground, find one and steal their sup- plies. They made one buffalo hunt each year leaving the first of July. In order to be ready for their deadly enemies the Sioux, each man was armed with a gun, a bow, and a large bundle of arrows. They expected fighting, and generally brought home scalps, dried meat and tallow, but no buffalo robes on account of the hot weather. Thisyear,our Indians, in an attack on theSioux camp on Turkey river some miles above Dubu- que killed several Sioux, and among the rest a Winnebago squaw and a Menominee boy. They settled with the Winnebagos by giving them horses. They always avoided a rupture with the Winnebagos who were eight thousand strong. The Menominees were good friends of theirs, some of them speaking the same language, but were a long distance awav. Nine of the Foxes started 37 with a canoe for Praire Da Chein to make restitu- tion for the boy killed. When a little below the Wisconsin river they were attacked by the Me- nominees and all killed. This stirred up a spirit of revenge and in August our Indians surprised the Menominees within three hundred yards of Fort Crawford and killed forty-six men, women and children. Our government called our Indians to account for this. Keokuk, as chief, on being callelon took a stick a:id balancing it on his hand, said "nine of the principal men of the Foxes on one end and torty-six, men women and children of the Menominees on the other is about even. , ' And that was the settlement. The possessions of the Sacs and Foxes commen- ced at the mouth of the Illinois river and along that stream as far as Peoria north, to strike the Wisconsin, about seventy miles from its mouth, down the Wisconsin to the Mississippi, and down the Mississippi to the place of beginning. This powerful tribe of Indians, much more powerful many years ago than now. came last from Green Bay and some of them from Canada. According to Park man's history, one hundred or more years ago they were the most powerful and aggressive tribe in the Northwest, the parent stock were called Abegenses. They had been living here about sixty years, where they reached the father of waters and found here and along the banks of the Rock River the most beautiful countrv thev had ever seen — the rivers abounding in fish and the coun- try alive with game — no wonder they were not willing to leave it to be driven away so ruthless- ly and unjustly. They had an old legend about the Island, and this was the reason they disliked so much to leave this most beautiful of all islands in the Missis- sippi occupied as a military post. They thought a good spirit had charge of it, who lived in a small cave under the place in which the fort was built. The spirit as seen by Indians was white with wings like a swan only ten times larger. They were always careful to avoid making any noise when they came on the island in the sum- mer. The noise made in building the fort drove the good spirit away. In 1804 one of our Indians killed a man in St. Louis and was put in jail, a deputation of five men from the Sacs were sent down to get him released taking horses along to be given for his release. While there these five men sold the United States all their lands east of the Mississippi river for an annuity of two thou- sand dollars, annually forever. ' Gen. Clark mak- ing the treaty for the government. The larger part of the Indians were bitterly opposed to the sale, out of this sale grew the Black Hawk War. There was a claim in the treaty that the In- dians might occupy the land while it belonged to the government. It had been surveyed some years 39 before. Notice had been given that the land would be offered for sale in October and the In- dian agent told them they must not come back, but they did, but not in such numbers as be* fore, as Keokuk, who was opposed to returning had commenced a village on the Iowa river. Keo- kuk was a remarkable orator, but not an hereditary chief. Black Hawk was a born chief and was the head of what was called the British party. In 1831 the Indians relanded in large numbers and with quite a different spirit towards the whites. Black Hawk gave the settlers notice that after this season they must go south of Rock River or above Pleasant Valley. He wanted all the coun- try between the two rivers exclusively for his In- dians, giving as a reason they could not give up their pleasant grounds. That they were safe on this side of the river from the Sioux. He said we could all stay until next season except Vandruff And Rennah Wells, (both rather hard nuts) old man Vandruff said it would be hard for him to leave with his twelve children and he was a poor man. Black Hawk said he could stay another season, but Wells must go at once, but he finally consent- ed to let him stay thirty days. This new move of the Indians made it necessary for the settlers to look around for protection. We sent a statement of our situation to the governor of the state. He moved at once in the matter applying to old Gen. Gaines at Jefferson barracks, Missouri. He took 40 the sixth regiment and proceeded at once to Rock Island. He had all the white settlers with their cattle and effects come onto the island at once. He then sent for Black Hawk to have a talk with him — the day was set. Keokuk and some of his friends came up from their village on the Iowa river and came on the island. They all met in the council house, Black Hawk with some seventy of his warriors painted and dressed, and near the council house commenced singing in a very loud manner. This seemed to alarm Keokuk and his party, and they left in their canoes in great haste fearing a massacre. A man with Black Hawk commenced speaking in a loud boisterous man- ner seeming to be very angry. Gen. Gaines spoke to him very gently of the sale of the land and reaching the treaty seemed to enrage him still more. He said "white people speak from paper, but Indian always speak from the heart." After the purchase of these lands in 1804 the govern- ment had exchanged all the lands lying north of what was called the Indian boundary line, which struck the Mississippi near the lower line of Rock Island ranging from the most Southern point of Lake Michigan, with the Chippewas, Pottowato- mis and Ottowas, for land lying about Chicago. In 1829 the government re-purchased these lands of the Indians, giving them $10,000 a year for- ever, and allowing them to select a quarter of a section for each of their half breeds. Antonie 41 Leclair and his brother selected theirs on the Miss- issippi river, commencing at Molineand running up to Watertown, Henry McNeal's old place. Black Hawk said in reply about the treaty of 1804, that the men had no right to make it, had no right to sell it, if it was sold, they got nothing for it. For if a small part of the land was worth $16,000 a year forever, a small portion of it was worth more than $2,000, Black Hawk's reasoning- was right, we thought, He said he would not fight and would not leave. Gen. Gaines inter- preted his talk to mean that he would fight. The force here was small — only aboutfive hundred in all. The men and boys of the settlement were all in the fort away from their homes, doing noth- ing. It was proposed to the General that a com- pany should be formed from the settlers, this was done and fifty-eight men were enrolled, and called the Rock River Rangers. Benjamin I. Peter was elected captain, John W. Spencer and Griffith Aubry lieutenants, Chas. Case, Benj. Gable and Henry Benson corporals. The com- pany was mustered into service on the 5th of June, 1831. Gen. Gaines called on the governor for help and collected about 1600 at the rendezvous at Beards- town. Another meeting ortwo was held with Black Hawk while the force was collecting. Gen. Gaines fitted up the steamer Winnebago with a cannon on the bow, and a company of soldiers going on 42 the boat went up Rock river passing withing fifty yards of their wigwams. But they showed no surprise, no wonder or fear. As soon as the gov- ernor's troops were collected, they marched to Rock Island camping within two miles of the island. Th3 Indians were aware of their approach, cross- ed the Mississippi, taking with them their women and children and all their effects. The next day was fixed for the attack on Black Hawk. The steam boat was to ascend the river with one com- pany of men from the fort while the rest of the forces under the command of Major Bliss were to march over land to the Indian village. An In- dian named Black Buffalo met the troops and John W. Spencer, { who knew him well,) he told that the Indians had gone across the river. He was not beleived and was kept a prisoner for that day. They took up their line of march taking the direction of Black Hawk's town. Arriving, a cannon was placed on the brow of the bluffand grape and canister was thrown into the bushes on Vandruff island. Gen. Gaines arriving with the boat commenced firing into the island also. (Some years after, about 1870, the writer found a six pound cannon ball just above Sears mill, the bed of the river had been laid bare by a coffer- dam but above, this ball I still have and have no doubt it was thrown at this time.) Another in- cident connected with their state volunteers is this, that Abraham Lincoln was there among 43 them. It proved that Black Buffalo told the truth. The volunteers burned the Indian wig- wams (an unjust proceeding) and marched to Rock Island camping along the river from the the present ferry landing to the freight depot. They turned these 1600 horses loose on the prairie and the next thing to do was to find food for their supper. Mr. Spencer had a field of twenty acres of corn and potatoes, and the volunteers went for the fence. Gen. Gaines told them to stop and they did while he was there, but they destroy- ed the fence, and he lost his crop, receiving from the volunteers, ten times as much damage as the Indians had ever done him — for which he never received a cent. Afterwards Black Hawk was asked why he did not stay as he said he would. He said he would have stayed if there had been only the United States troops, as they were under good control. A few days after there was another meeting held with Black Hawk and another treaty made in which it was agreed that the Indians were to stay on the other side of the river, and the government was to give them as much corn as they would have raised in their corn field. John W. Spencer and Rennah Wells were select- ed to make the estimate, which amounted to sev- eral thousand bushels. This closed the operations in 1831. In the spring of 1832 the Indians violated their agree- 44 meet to keep on the west side of the river. They crossed at Burlington (called Flint Hills) and came up as usual with their canoes and horses. Gen. Atkinson with one '*egiment of United States troops was sent up from Jefferson barracks, reaching here before the Indians, as the Indians did not make more than ten miles a day, reach- ing here soon after the General. They kept on the south side of Big Island. When they were near the present site of Moline, John W. Spencer went over to watch their movements. He met four young men, one of them was Seoscuk, Black Hawk's son, a splendid looking fellow. He ask- ed him where they were going. He said they might go over to their village or they might stop where they were or go up Rock river to Prophets- town. Mr. Spencer was the only white man who had any communication with them at this point. They went up Rock river about two miles and encamped for the night. Mr. Spencer told Sea- scuk that there was a good many troops at the fort. The next morning the Indians were heard beating their drums and singing. Gen. Atkinson was anxious to learn what were their movements and also to inform the frontier settlers of their danger. Mr. Spencer proposed to take his dis- patch to the nearest settlement; taking a canoe to avoid the Indians, he went to the mouth of Rock river and hiding the canoe made the rest of the journey on foot. He delivered the dispatch 45 of warning to a few settlers, and coming back found his canoe all right. It was supposed the General would stop the Indians at this point, but he did not, but he sent to the governor for help. He was soon here with 1800 mounted men, they were then ready to follow the Indians up Rock river, but a steam boat could not cross the rapids, so a small keel boat of 80 tons was loaded with supplies and started up Rock river. It took two days to get over the rapids and on the 8th of May the expedition started ; they found the stream very rapid and it was very hard work for the soldiers to push the boat along up the river. The General had several hundred regulars with him and the crew of the boat was changed every day. The first camping place was about two miles above the # I. C. R. R., bridge. The second at Canoe Creek, the third at Sand Prairie. This part of the river was so low that we made but little progress. The fourth encampment was about two miles above Prophetstown. The troops were officered by Gen. Atkinson, Col. Zachariah Taylor, Abraham Lincoln, Capt. Kearney; Capt, Lincoln, belonged to the volunteers. The others to the regulars. It was about the middle of May — a pleasant moonlight night when a young man from Dixon came down and said Maj. Stillman of the volunteer force had been defeated and there was a great loss of life. Maj. Stillman had ren- dezvoused at Dixon with about 300 men who came mostly from Peoria. 46 The governor was ordered to this place, when he arrived, Stillman had been several days in camp and his men were tired of camp life. So Stillman proposed while they were waiting for the arrival of general Atkinson that he be permitted to go and find the Indians. Governor consented and they drew rations for four or five days. Whisky constituted one of the rations. On the first day out the volunteers concluded the best way to carry the whisky was to drink it all in one day, by night many of them were not very sober. About an hour before dark they camped only three or four miles from the Indians. They had not been in camp long when Black Hawk sent three of his braves with a flag of truce, saying that Black Hawk would come in the morning and have a talk with them, that he did not *want to fight. Black Hawk sent four or five of his men out on the prairie to see how their flag of truce was re- ceived. Some twenty or thirty of our men being under the influence of whisky gathered up there horses and guns and rode out to where the In- dians were sitting not expecting any harm, when our men rode near them, raised their guns delib- erately, killing three of the Indians, the other two fleeing to their encampment, (shame on the drunken cowards.) Those bearing the flag of truce in the flurry and excitement sprang away and escaped. Now our troops prepared to meet the Indians as they felt sure they would fight* 47 As soon as the news reached the Indians they flew to their horses, and came on to the fight. They commenced firing at long range and before many shots had been fired, our men commenced a stampede for Dixon, the Indians close in the rear killing all who were unhorsed in the fight. The men who first came to Dixon reported that nearly the whole command waskilled, but it turn- ed out the most made a bee line for their homes. A strong force was sent out the next day to bring in the dead, there were eleven killed of the whites and five Indians including the three killed on the prairie. Black Hawk did not want to fight and intended to give himself up and these few drunk- en cowardly men brought this trouble and ex- pense upon us, causing the loss of many valuable lives and costing many thousands of dollars, spreading terror and alarm all over Northern Illinois and Southern Wisconsin. This condensed account I have given, as narrated by my good old time friend, a brave, honorable, upright, truth- ful man, is the only one that I have ever seen that gives a true and just account of this most unfort- unate war. Governor Ford's history of the inci- dents connected with this war after what is re- lated by Judge Spencer is probably the best that has been written. In order to give a full history of the first settlement of Rock Island and vicinity before 1833 I have used Mr. Spencer's narative up to 1832. (J. W. Spencer's narative as told by his daughter Mary, the wife of Tyler Robinson, and written down by her. 48 Sketches of Some of the Early Settlers Near Rock Island. Charles Atkinson settled at Cleveland on Rock river in 1838, I met him and his amiable wife while they were living there. A few years after he moved to Moline and assisted in organizing the Moline Water Powereompany of which he was president and the moving directing spirit for many years. And when the goverment formulat- ed a plan for the improvement of the island, in- cluding the immense work shops since erected, requiring the use of the water power already in use by the company, Mr. Atkinson drew up a strong contract and had it accepted by the war department, which gave the Water Power com- pany many advantages. Binding the govern- ment to do certain things, among the rest giving the company the use of one-third of the power. It was considered to be a very sharp bargain and thus far has proved to be a very costly one to the Unit- ed States. The whole transcaction showed Mr. Atkinson to be a very sharp business man. W. W. Wright settled in Hampton sometime in the 40s. He entered into the mercantile busi- ness and for many years done a very flourishing business, dealing largely in the products of the county. Having the entire confidence of the com- munity, many of the farmers who had surplus funds deposited it with him. He was a straight- 49 forward honest man, and a gentleman. I had a good many business transactions with him while I lived in Galena — later, he one winter invested largely in pork packing and became somewhat involved and quit business. Henry McNeal who occupied the old McNeal place for many years near Watertown came to this country at quite an early day before the fam- ily occupied the old homestead. He lived among the Northern Indians some years, leaving his east- ern home when a boy. He was a shrewd man, a good judge of character. It was very interesting to him to tell of the early history of the country andol his many adventures. Dennis Warren who owned the two corner lots south of the Opera house must have come here in 1834, as he entered these two choice lots at the county commissioners' sale in that year, paying I think $400 each for them and has held them till now, 59 years. I have heard Rennah Wells ,who lived near Sears mill at the time tell how he ap- plied for board with him, and wanted a cheap rate as he did not care to have anything better than crackers and milk. He must have brought some money with him from New York. He had quite a stock of cheap jewelry which he peddled about without any liscense. One of his brothers with whom he was interested had a stock of cloths and satinets which he offered to sell to the people. 50 Not having a merchant liscense some of our deal- ers complained of his violation of law. He was fined I think $25. Dennis swore vengeance against the town and said he would hold these two lots as long as he lived and he kept his word. He had three brothers, one of them had a store in Platteville, Wisconsin, another a store in Dodge- ville, and another was doing business in Prairie Du Sac in 1850. They were shifting around very often. Dennis had an interest with one of them in a saw mill on the upper Wisconsin. Some- time in the fifties I held a claim for an estate for some $800 against a man engaged in trade on the Wisconsin. Dennis offered to exchange his inter- est in his town then called New York, now Lyons, the site of which he then owned for the claim. He'laid out a town there and made a large amount of money from the sale of lots. He made no im- provements himself whatever. He was a hard, intensly selfish man. A large family of the Drurys lived in the lower part of the county, they seemed to be very fond of litigation. There was hardly a term of court held but w T hat they had one or more suits pend- ing. Some of these suits were waged against the people of Illinois City, a rival town in the neigh- borhood. This town was started by old Coleman and a Mr. Klump, both from Indiana and both hard cases. It was said and with good reason that thieves and counterfeiters often made this place their resort. 51 In the fall of 1839 old man Coleman came to Rock Island and invited a number of our young men to come down and attend a ball at the hotel he had just opened. We hired a four horse rig of Henry Powars and some 12 to 15 of us went down many of us taking guns along to hunt on the way. Our old friend Tim Babcock took along his fiddle and clarionet and another musician went along. Uncle Joe Conway went down on horseback. Cole- man had promised to invite all the girls of the neighborhood to meet us. We arrived there in good season and had our supper. Soon after dark the musicians took their places and we begun to look for the girls but none were visible, instead a middle aged fat woman was the only woman visible. Some of the boys trotted her out a few times and it after degenerated into what is called a stag dance. Tim Babcock play- ing the fiddle and calling part of the time. The other musician calling when he used the clarionet. The gay scene was lighted up by two or three tal- low candles. There was a bar at the other end of the room, to which some of the boys resorted oc- casionally. It was dimly lighted; a tall rough looking customer belonging to the neighborhood went behind the bar and drawing a huge bowie knife just for ugliness refused any admittance. Our genial county recorder, W. E. Franklin did not like to have his liquid rations thus summarily cut off, so he walked up to the front of the bar 52 and drawing the large brass key of his office from his pocket and pointing it at the bully, says to him "give me that knife or I will blow you to h =1." The man came out and was seized by the crowd and tumbled out of doors, and then the dance went on through the long dreary night. It had commenced raining heavily early in the even- ing. Old Joe Conway not liking the looks of things started for home towards night; coming to a swollen creek, in attempting to cross, he was washed from his horse and floated down stream, caught hold of some willows and commenced hallowing for help. Fortunately someone heard him and took him and his horse in for the night A carpenter by the name of Cook, amused himself in one end of the room, in throwing up pump- kins from a pile, and saying, "they go up pump- kin and come down squash." I went to bed about 12 o'clock, in the room overhead, with a loose board floor, but I could not sleep, I never shall forget the sound of Tim's clarionet, second, as the dance went on. He was an excellent musician and was always in demand at all the balls in this section. In the melee in ejecting the ruffian, I loan- ed Tim my rifle pistol, and he dropped it on the floor; it was captured by Illinois City people and after some months was returned to me. In the morning the boys had their arms all in readiness to repel an attack, if one had been made, as was threatened and we started home; a more disgusted 53 set of mortals I have never seen. I think most of us ever after gave this hard town the go by, I have at least, as I have not been there since. At Cordova, a number of the Marshall family resided, some three or four brothers, some engaged in trade, and some in farming. This was the best corn raising land near Cordova, in the county, and some of the brothers dealt largely in that staple. Almost every year long rows of cribs of the yellow grain were seen adjoining the town. All that broad sandy prairie lying above Cordova and extending upto the head of theMeridociaand east to the line of Whiteside County, this part be- ing mostly a marsh, was once the bed of the river, or rather of a large lake, before the Mississippi broke through the chain of rocks forming the rapids. Before this the Mississippi and Rock river formed a junction at the present outlet of the Meridocia. A portion of the Mississippi find- ing an outlet through what iscalled Pleasant Val- ley. A broad, beautiful, fertile valley, covered with some of the best farms in the country. Soon after the Mississippi broke the rocky barrier, all that portion of the county from Cordova to the mouth of Rock river, lying between the two rivers was an island. Rock Island City, the site of Black Hawk's vil- lage, near the Hears mill was laid off into lots by Chas. A. Spring, of New York. He lived there for a few years, and was out here the same year the 54 Sears mill was built. He then disposed of the land he owner there, to D. B. Sears. Daniel Webster, who had an interest with him in this incipient beautiful site for a town. The water power at this point of Rock river at an early date attracted attention, and the grist, saw and paper mills and a large distillery were put in operation, and Milan at one time was a prosperous, thriv- ing village. Mr. Johnson erected a good sub- stantial flour mill, and for some time done a pros- perous and profitable business, and the mill burn- ed down. Jacob Frysinger erected a large distill- ery during the war of the rebellion. The owners of the two paper mills got into litigation which ended in disaster to all concerned. The large brick building erected for the manufacture of watches still stands, but has never been utilized. A monument of duplicity and fraud showing how easily men are deceived by rogues, who fraudu- lently hold out the idea of large profits. The large well built stone grist mills, erected by D. B. Sears was burned down a few years ago. The dams built across the branches on the Milan side are all gone. The substantial one built by Mr. Sears, is fast going to decay. The only enterprises started in this neighborhood in recent years, that still exist are the paper mill and the cotton fac- tory, both owned and controlled byRockford cap- ital ; unless the Sears dam is soon repaired, these two must go the way of all the rest. \ fa- 55 tality seems to have fallen upon every enterprise undertaken here in the neighborhood of Black Hawk's old village. There is no better water power in this section of the country, or one more easily improved, and controlled, than the main or north side of the river, and the site of that old Indian village for beauty of scenery stands un- equalled, with its high rolling ground, and the beautiful shady groves that cover the hill sides along the way .to Rock Island. Perhaps the curse of old Black Hawk for depriving him of his home rests upon this spot. The city of Rock Island, many years ago seeing the necessity for securing the trade of the many thriving settlements and colonieson the south side of the river, (this section being the main source from which to draw trade,) by an act of legislature,obi,ained the right to bridge Eock river and its branches, and to collect tolls for the same. Much of the south end of the road, from Rock Island to the river, was very sandy, and some years ago an ordinance was passed, auth- orizing the constructing of a macadam end grav- elled road. Reynolds & Salpaugh took the con- tract, and put in a good substantial road bed, at a cost of $22,000 Large appropriations had to be made nearly every year, to keep the bridge in re- pair, [t is quite doubtful if the large outlay that has been made since the system was inaugurated, counting up into many thousands of dollars, has been a paving investment to the citv. The 56 tolls collected have helped somewhat to lighten the heavy outlay. Many attempts have been made from time to time to induce the county to shoulder the burden, but without avail. Mr. D. B. Sears may well be called the founder of Moline, as he was the first one to suggest the idea of utilizing the water power, and he put the idea into practical effect, by building a dam, in- venting and using materials for constructing it, that were new I think, but have since been large- ly put to practical use by Jas. B. Eades in hisjet- ties at the passes at New Orleans, and by the Unit- ed States in constructing wing dams to concentrate the water of sloughs in the main channel of the river. His plan was to first put in a layer of small trees, then a layer of rock on the tops of the brush, which were pointed up stream, and so on until the dam was raised to the requisite height. Thus making a strong dam, and drift of sand or earth lodging upon it, making it still stronger. Such a dam he built across the stream near where the government bridge now stands. Permission was obtained of the government to erect mills on the island shore, and some two or three were put up. This was the foundation and commencement of the prosperity of Moline as a great manufact- uring center. The water power grew out of this nuclus, and old man Reed was the first one who had its management. It afterwards passed into the wise and judicious management of my old 57 time friend, Charles Atkinson, who remained its manager until his decease,a few yearsago. Among the early settlers of Moline, were the Hartsells and Wells families, the Hunton brothers, who were connections of Mr. Sears. The Edwards family and some others whose names I do not recall. Later in 1846 John Deere, Mr. Hemmway, Judge Gould, S. W. Wheelock, C. K.Swann,all of whom took a leading part in the development of the various manufacturing enterprises of the city. D. B. Sears obtained permission of the govern- ment to build a grist mill on the little rocky island, which lies near the head of rock island, running a dam across the narrow inlet that flows between the two, and also the right to use a por- tion of the upper part of the main island. He put up a good substantial grist mill, and occu- pied it for many years, until the government wanted to use the whole island. This small island for sometime after the mill was built, was used as the only landing for Moline, for boats bound up stream. It was very difficult for boats to land coming down stream, owing to the strong current of the rapids. I think it was in 1867, the government wishing to have, and control the whole island, bought out Mr. Sears claim to the little island, and a number of acres at the upper end. Commissioners were appointed, who awarded Mr. Sears $112,000, a magnificent sum, with which he was enabled to buy a large tract of land, at, and around the Sears* mill, and to build the grist mill. 58 Rock Island from 1836 to 1841, Moline and Vicinity. Passing up the Mississippi in 1834 to 1836, bat few towns were seen. On the Missouri side of the river were Clarkesville, Louisiana and Hannibal, — all small towns, containing from 400 to 600 people, not thrifty looking at all, owing to the blight of slavery. There were very few settle- ments along the line of the river on the eastern or Illinois side. Quincy was quite a thriving town with an energetic go ahead, population com- ing mostly from the New England states. \t the head of the lower rapids a small goverment post was established for the accommodation of a regi- ment of cavalry, to keep the Indians in check. Flint Hills, the present site of Burlington was about the first settlement in Iowa, except an In- dian trading establishment at Dubuque. Musca- tine then called vannettas landing, had a lew scat- tering log cabins. Davenport had one house only in 1833, belonging to Antonie Leclair, the In- dian interpreter and trader. With these few ex- ceptions, the whole country from St. Louis and Alton, was an almost unbroken wilderness. Many points here and there along the river were very beautiful. The gentle sloping hills at the head of the rapids — the present site of the far famed Morrnan City of Navou, were very attractive. But the scenery along the banks of the Great river from Muscatine to the head of the upper rapids 59 stands unrivelled for beautiful, picturesque, scen- ery. As you come up the river and approach the present site of Rock Island and Davenport, in the center between the two sides of the river, Fort Armstrong, with its white walls glistening in the sun, occupying all the front part of the rocky point of the island ; looking in the distance like a well built city ; on the north side of the river the sloping beautiful banks covered with the scrub oaks, looking in the distance like a well kept apple orchard, with only one house to mar the beauty of the scene; on the south a broad smooth prairie sweeping around fiom Rock river to the present site of Moline; in the distance densly wooded hills; a few farm houses also are to be seen. This is a faint and inadequate description of the pres- ent site of Davenport and Rock Island as they appeared to me in 1833. In the fall of 1836 I met an old Galena ac- quaintance John S. Miller in St. Louis, he was in St. Louis buying goods to open a store in Rock Island, then called Stevenson. He wished me to join him as a partner in business. He had considerable capital, and my knowledge of busi- ness was to offset his capital. Unfortunately as the sequel proved, I accepted his proposition, leav- ing a good situation in St. Louis. I came up to Rock Island and started in business with him. He was a man with a violent temper, not used to business, and after staying with him two years 60 we desolved partnership, leaving me little or noth- ing, except liabilities amounting to $15,000, for which, I was holden. He dying soon after the termination of the partnership, his widow who was a shrewd, unscrupulous woman, through the manipulations of a corrupt probate judge, who made large allowances to her for the support of herself and family, I was left to settle the debts the best I could in after years, after I left Rock Island for Galena. The original town of Stevenson was laid off by the county commissioners in 1834, and the lots were sold at public sale bringing a very fair price for that early day,selling from $2 to $400 each, quite a number of my Galena friends invested in these lots. The site was considered a favorable one on account of its situation near the mouth of the beautiful Rock river. This river it was confi- dently suppossed would prove to be a navigable stream, at least as far as Rockford, 150 miles or more. Among the principal settlers in the village were John W.Spencer, the Cases, Jonah, Asahel and Charles. The numerous Wells family, who were scattered along the line of the river, com- mencing at the mouth of Rock River, settling along at different points at Moline, Hampton and Port Byron. These people all came originally from Vermont and New Hampshire, and were mostly enterprising men and good citizens. John W. Spencer took a leading part in every enterprise 61 for the upbuilding of the town. I found a num- ber of others living in the town and the vicinity. Dr. P. Gregg, William Bell, Wm. Brooks, Frazer Wilson, David Hawes and Ben Goble, the last two still living at this writing, the only three liv- ing of all who were here or in this vicinity in 1836. y The beauty and fertility of the Rock river val- ley attracted many emigrants from the older states during 1836 and 1837, and a number of nourishing colonies were started in Rock Island, Henry and Mercer counties, and these colonies were all naturally tributary to Rock Island. These emigrants all brought more or less money to the country and trade was very brisk in the little town, and we thought the prospect was good for building up a large nourishing city. A number of new business houses were opened, and all were doing well. The town was full of enterprising young men, who would compare very favorably with any that we have at this time. New addi- tions were being laid off, and town lots were sell- ing briskly afc good prices. In 1837 the court house was built on the beautiful public square,and we all lent a hand in setting out the trees in the square, many of them still survive. The large trees still standing in the South west corner of the square Wm. E. Franklin and myself dug up on Credit Island, and brought them over in a skiff and set them out. There have been some additions made 62 to the buildings on the square in later years, and our county commissioners are talking of erecting a new and more costly structure perhaps on the old site or at some point near the dividing line between Molineand Rock Island. Davenport built a court house the same year, of about the same cost and size, but that was torn down some years ago and a much larger one has taken its place. In 1837 and 1838 the state commenced a most extravagant system of improvments all over the state, improving interior rivers — building rail- roads, and among the rest, an attempt to make Rock river a navigable stream by improving the rapids near the mouth of the river, and the rapids at Sterling, Work was commenced on Van- druff's Island, a hundred or more men were em- ployed in digging nearly opposite the Sears mill. Some remains of the ditch are still to be seen. No part of this work is being utilized by the present canal, as it takes a new and entirely different route. Whether the present will ever be completed is a matter of doubt, at any rate many years will come and go before its final completion. At pres- ent a large force of men are employed on this work. The employment thus afforded the labor- ing men of Rock Island, while the work is going on in this neighborhood is about all the direct benefit Rock Island will ever receive from it. The contractors who were employed on this old canal 63 were paid in state script. This evidence of state indebtedness at first passed at 50 per cent, dis- count, before fall it was difficult to pass it at 25 cents on the dollar. The great scheme for mak- ing state improvements suddenly collapsed. It was but a bubble, at last state bank paper became almost worthless. Then state banks encouraged by the policy inaugurated by the Jackson regime, making state banks depository of the government funds, encouraging speculation all over the coun- try, every body was going to be rich, speculating in town lots. All sorts of wild visionary schemes were started, honest labor was at a discount. Only four or five years before what a different state of affairs existed. The United States bank with its various branches was making exchanges for all parts of the Union at a small premium, its paper was good every where, business was on a stable basis. Then Jackson commenced his onslaught on the bank with ail the power of the government at his back. A man without any knowledge of statesmanship, a strong willed vindictive man, having his own way, by the eternal. A man aside from his qualities as a soldier, wholly unfit for the position in which he was placed by the people as president. Like a wild bull in a china shop, he tore around with lawless force, only a destruc- tive force. The damage he done to the best inter- ests of the country financially and politically for many years can hardly be estimated. He and 64 that Mephistopoles, Martin Van Buren, foisted upon us that most pernicious system. "To the victor belongs the spoils." Before this, men who held office under the government were retained right along as under former administrations pro- vided they were faithful and honest. The Demo- cratic policy under Jackson and Van Buren has continued to produce a crop of swartouts some- times anually, sometimes oftener. Old Hickory missed what might have been the one redeeming act of his life, when he threatened to hang John C. Calhoun, the arch traitor of secession and did not fulfill his threat. The people of this new western country, when this financial bubble burst directly traceable to the overthrow of the United States bank by old Hickory, found themselves in a sad predicament. Nearly all the currency in circulation was almost worthless. What was call- ed good to-day was found to be worthless to- morrow. All business was paralized. The far- mers in this section had just begun to raise quite a surplus, but there was no market. Wheat was nominally 35 cents, and corn 10 cents per bushel. Most of the outlying colonies who had been doing their trading in Rock Island had expended all their ready means in improving their farms and what surplus they had they could not sell or ship. The merchants had large amounts outstanding which they could not collect. Everything was dead, at a standstill. If any building was done 65 at all it was done by a system of exchanges, swap- ping some one thing for another, without any money in the transaction. This state of affairs continued for some time, until about 1843, and the town grew very slowly. Quite a large num- ber of our people went to Galena and staying a while, and earning a little money in their various occupations,someofthem returned to Rock Island. Wm. L. Lee, Jerre Chamberlain, H. C. Harkelr- hodes, and some others whose names I forget went there. In 1840 the people of the whole country became tired and disgusted with the Democratic rule and the election of that year resulted in the election of Gen. Harrison and Tyler. Monster meetings were held all over the country. The largest political gathering we have ever had was held in Rock Island, and many eminent speakers w r ere here from abroad. Among them I recollect John Hogan, one of the most eloquent stump ora- tors I ever heard. He afterwards settled in St. Louis and was elected a member of congress for two terms. I met him in St. Louis at the cham- ber of commerce in 1890 and had a long talk with him on old time subjects. During these hard times the country was overrun with lawless char- acters, horse thieves and counterfeiters, and oc- casionally we had to resort to lynch law to rid ourselves of them. A desperado from Iowa came into the town and robbed a boy of a few dollars. He was arrested and lodged in the old m log jail. It was some three or four months before a session of the court would be held to try him. So we concluded we would give him a trial by Judge Lynch. The jailer, Thomas Spencer made no resistance, so we started with him for the bluffs. Tim Babcock and myself locked arms with him. When we got to the slough, which then had only one narrow passway over it, betook to the muddy slough, soon breaking away from Tim and me. He was however caught on the other side and tak- en to the bluffs. Seven of us were appointed to give him seven cuts with a rawhide on the back. I recollect Ben Cobb and Ben Goble laid the rod on with all their might, Ben Goble is still living an old man of 81. Another instance. A young fellow was arrested fortryingto pass five dollar counterfeit gold pieces. He had quite a quantity of them in his possession, they were a miserable immitation of the genuine. We took him out to the woods, more to make him tell who were his confederates than anything else. He gave us a number of names fictitious probably, as we knew none of the persons named. The counterfeit money was taken from him. He was admonished to go and sin no more. One Sunday morning a man coming down Rock River early in the morning, and coming up to Rock Island by way of one of the sloughs dis- covered two skiffs moored to the shore, and some goods hanging on the trees. He reported it to 67 us. We had hoard the day before that a store had been robbed at Comanche. We started with a number of skiffs, well loaded with men who were ripe for the adventure. Some of us left our boats at the head of the slough, and two went down to the mouth of Rock River to head off the thieves. We all started on the keen run, and saw the trees strung with bolts of calico and clothing. I was fleet of foot and arrived first, just in time to see the two thieves breaking for Rock River. One of them seized a pair of pants as he left. It had been raining heavily the night before and they stopped in order to dry their plunder. By the time the two men reached the river, the boats were there ready to capture them. The one with the pants attempted to swim the river with the pants around his neck and would have drowned if the men in the boats had not rescued him. The goods were brought to town and left in the store of Andrews & McMaster. The old brick store, the first of the kind in Rock Island is still in exist- ance just east of the court house. The thieves were taken over to Iowa and had a trial, were convicted, and while in charge of the sheriff on their way to the penitentiary at Musca- tine, made their escape. John Wilson came here from New Hampshire and obtained a grant for a ferry across the river. Judge John W. Spencer, who married his daugh- ter for his second wife, afterwards became inter- 68 ested with him, and some years after Capt. T. J. Robinson obtained an interest. The ferry was always very well kept, and in after years be- came remunerative to the owners. Many attempts were made at different times to annul the char- ters obtained in Iowa and Illinois, but without success. Capt. Robinson who for many years has had control, an adroit manager, always succeeded in retaining the charter intact. Even after the government and the Rock Island railroad built the great free bridge it lias still remained a good pay- ing stock, being run across the river near the cen- ter of the two cities of Davenport and Rock Island. The defunct town of Rockingham was started in Iowa opposite the mouth of Rock river in 1836. It was supposed that this beautiful river would prove to be a navigable stream, and some three or four small steamers were built for this trade. The Harris boys built the Frontier, a very fine draft boat, and made one trip up the river as far asRockford during high waterin the spring. This boat was the first one to land at the present ferry landing, boats having landed before at what was called lower town, just below the Q depot. The w r ater was very shoal there and our enterpris- ing citizen, Henry Powars, built a wharf boat on which the boats could land. Spencer and Case the owners of their addition to the upper part of the city deeded the corner lot on first street near the present ferry landing toSmith&R. S. Harris. 69 I sold this lot for them to Jacob Riley in 1867 for $2,600, 80 by 160 feet. Another steamer called the Rock River was built by a Hungarian Count at some point above Rockford, called Matzalan. He brought the boat down the river and run her on the Mississippi. The count settled at Prairie Du Sac on the Wisconsin river. After- wards Rockingham was laid off by John H. Sul- ivan, a man full of energy and enterprise. He built and opened the first store in Rock Island, the one that was afterwards occupied by Miller & McMaster. Sulivan put up a saw and grist mill and induced a number of men of enterprise and means to settle in the incipient town : two Davenport Bros.. H. B. Brown and Sargent, after- wards of the firm of Cook & Sargent, Mr. Sar- gent was afterwards interested in the Northern Pa- cific railroad, and laid out a part of the city of Du- luth and the town of London, lying just north on ground gently sloping to the Great Lake. A num- ber of stores were erected, and a very fair com- mencement was made for a prosperous town. The county seat of Scott county was located there one season by importing voters from Dubuque, it was stated. The next year there was another contest for county seat between Rockingham and Daven- port, in which Davenport won the victory by a handsome majority, that majority was made up largely by imported votes from Rock Island. Rockingham imported a good many from Dubu- que, but not enough to win the day. We then considered the town at the mouth of Hock river to be a much stronger rival than Davenport. One main cause of the downfall of the new town was its situation on low flat ground, subject to over- flow nearly every year. A party of us went down in skiffs one season when the water was very high. We hitched our skiffs to the porch of the hotel which stood on the highest ground in the town. In about \$3S Davenport commenced to rill up. Antonie Leclaire had been living theresome years and had a large grant of land from the Indians, as well as one at Leclaire at the head of the rapids. Among the first settlers were D. C.Eldridge, who was I think the first postmaster: the Cook broth- el's. John Forrest ami his brother-in-law, Dillon, the father of Judge Dillon. John Forrest suc- ceeded Mr. Kldridge as postmaster. Judge Mit- chell, who married a sister of George Davenport's wife, Samuel Parker and Frazier Wilson, now of Rock Island and at this writing is still living. Antonie Leclair ami Col. Davenport, who lived on the Island, owned most of the town site, and were very liberal in their terms for lots to all who wished t<> invest. This and the beautiful site, un- equalled by any other on the great river, together with the rid) fertile soil of Scott county, all of which tributary to the voung city, give it a decided ad- vantage, over its neighbor across the river. So much for Davenport in olden time she has kept 71 steadily advancing ingrowth and prosperity and now has a population of about 35,000. the second city in population in the state. The first school we had of any kind in Rock Island was a private one, opened by a Mr. Hum- mer a bigotted tyranical old time calvinist. He required and expected his pupils to obey his be- hests both in and out of school hours. There was to be a dance in a few days and he forbid the young ladies to attend. Some three or four of them went notwithstanding he told them they must not. He asked one of them, Henrietta, Judge Garnsey's daughter, if she went to the ball, "I did" she said. "Take your hooks and go home, Miss Garnsey," he said. She was a proud spirited girl and felt very indignant at the insult put upon her, and as she went with the books in her arms she threw one of them at the reverend gentleman, hitting him on the head. That night an indignation meeting was held by the young men who called on the preacher and gave him just three days to pack up and leave. He left! I think there was no systematic endeavor to found publiclschools before 1844, during this interim my old time friend, (Ten. C. ('.Washburn, of Wis- consin, taught a private school. During the time he was here he was appointed county surveyor by the county commissioners to take the place of Oglesby, who I think resigned or died. Me went from hereto Mineral point. Wisconsin, and open- 72 ed a bank with Cyrus Woodman, a bank that al- ways paid specia on demand for its notes. He went into the war of the Rebellion. Had com- mand of the forces that attempted to open the Yazzo river during the seige of Vicksburg. Came out of the war a major general, was elected a sen- ator, and afterwards governor of his state, leaving at his death large bequests to the state for edu- cational and scientific subjects. A broad minded liberal man, the peer of his brother, E. B. Wash- burn. About this time Elton Cropper and one or two others made an effort to open public schools, but they were bitterly opposed by some of our well- to-do citizens, who ought to have helped them along, instead of opposing. Some years later my old time friend, George Mexter, obtained a spec- ial charter from the state organizing the Rock Is- land school district. Vesting in a board of five directors power to appoint teachers, to levy all necessary taxes for the support of the schools, and to annex any contiguous territory on petition. An excellent charter under which the schools are still running. Mr. Mexter took active interest in the public schools some years as director and presi- dent of the board. The system gradually devel- oped until at the present we have six large well constructed brick school houses, with 8 to 12 rooms each with a corps of some 45 teachers under the control and management of our efficient superin- 73 tendent, £. S. Kemble. I would mention as a per- sonal matter that I have acted as a director and president of the board some 10 or 12 years, dur- ing my residence here since 1866, and now in my old age, I, in order to keep and feel young, still visit the schools often, and frequently go out with the children of the schools in my neighborhood into the woods in the spring and fall and always enjoy the trip. We had a debating society made up mostly of the young men of the town; of those taking a lead- ing part in the debates were George Mexter, who is still living, Joe Wells who was afterwards elected Lieutenant Governor of the state; he was very eloquent, a genuine orator in subjects that in- terested him, Dr. Gregg, Win. E. Franklin, John W. Spencer, myself and J. Bernard Smith occa- sionally participated in the debates. One of the topics of debate was, "has the Negro race received more harm from the Whites than the Indians." Friend Mexter, I recollect gave a glowing descrip- tion of the high state of civilization of the Negro race in early times in Northern Africa, and the terrible crime the Whites committed in enslaving them in after years. He was answered that the people inhabiting Northern Africa did not belong to the negro race, but were Moors and Berbers. That the Indian race in America had been by the cruelty and greed of the whites, decimated and nearly swept from the earth in both North and South America. 74 Quite a large number of our population at this time came from Pennsylvania, some few from Kentucky. The first from this state was Col. Buford the father of Gen. N. B. Buford, Thomas, John and James. N. B. Buford took an active part in the Civil war, and distinguished himself in the battle of Belmont, where Gen. Grant was first brought into notice. Gen. John Buford was a distinguished cavalry commander in the army of the Potomac. The father, Col. Buford, was a large powerful man, rough in manner, but genial, a great admirer of the new city of his adoption, which he called, New Jerusalem. He built the first store on the levee, a small frame structure with a very high square front, gorgeously paint- ed to imitate granite. One day lie was out in the front looking at it. lie says, this building looks like a man clothed in a ruffied shirt and nothing else, lie and myself were t he first town trustees. About the only work I recollect we had done was to commence a ditch to drain the slough back of the town. The money to do the work was raised mostly from private sources, very little efficient work was done on this much needed improve- ment for many years after. Under Mayor, E. P. Reynolds' administration some fifteen years ago, a large substantial sewer was commenced and fin- ished atthe river embracing some fiveor six blocks and finally completed at this time to the head of the low ground in the slough. When the finan- rial collapse of 1837 struck and paralyzed the whole country, as I have said before, all improve- ment was at a stand still for a number of years in Rock Island, very little addition to the popula- tion was made for sometime. One of our enter- prising citizens, Henry Powars built the old Rock Island house which was very well kept at first by himself and afterwards by our old friend, David Haws, who was a model landlord, setting a good table, and his energetic wife always seeing to the kitchen department. It was kept for a number of years after by B. and I. Vancourt. There were two other small hotels, one was kept by Mr. Buffam, the father of a number of boys among whom was John Buffam, for a long time county commission- er from Adalusia. The Butfara housewas on the south side of the street opposite the court house. Old man Bentlev kept the other on sixteenth street near the river. Joseph Knox. George Mexter, Judge Drury, Samuel Andrews and Ben Cobb came here in 1837. Old Joe Conway was clerk of the court, magistrate and postmaster. He and his brother Miles came \\^w from Madison count v. lib The principal place of resort for many, was Cobb's saloon. Joe Knox and old Joe Conway were gen- erally very regular attendants there, always en- gaged in playing euchre forthedrinks, when they could induce anyone to play with them. Joseph Knox was a very talented and brilliant lawyer, a 76 finished orator. He might have taken a leading- part in the politics of the state, but for his disso- lute habits. He moved to Chicago many years ago, and died there. We had a number of noted quaint characters here: Judge Garnsey and his son, Charles, the judge was formerly a member of congress in the state of New York, they both took a leading part in the Harrison campaign of 1840 and were rewarded by being appointed as receiver and register for the land office at Dixon; Old man Naylor, who had a store and started the first distillery just below the Barnes estate's prop- erty. He was the butt and laughing stock ofthe whole town and people were always playing jokes upon him. One of them was this, he married a young wife of 16. On the night of his marriage, after he and his young wife had retired, a dele- gation went to his house and called him out. They took him to the Rock Island house and made him order a basket of champaign for the crowd. Keep- ing him in his shirtand drawers until near morn- ing. One day when he was traveling in a steam- boat, the boat being somewhat crowded, his state room was in the ladies cabin. After dinner the day being warm he went to his room disrobing all but hisshirtand drawers. Some of his waggish friends took a bucket of water and throwing it on him, those outside the door raised the cry, "The boat is sinking!" "The boat is sinking!" This aroused him from his slumbers and he rushed 77 out among the ladies, only to find that another joke had been played upon him. In the fall of 1839, Mr. Andrews and myself bought quite a large stock of goods in St. Louis which were shipped quite late, as the winter set in early in November. Some of the goods only got as far as Hamburgh, but most of them were stored at Louisiana, Mo., by the clerk of the boat, my old friend Capt. D. N. Dawley. He was one the most efficient and reliable clerks on the river and served on a number of boats for more than thirty years. I went down to Louisiana in December, rented a store and sold quite a quan- tity of the stock, with a portion of the goods I load- ed up three ox teams, and Ben Cobb took charge of the teams for Rock Island. Early in March I started for Rock Island, coming by boat to Keo- kuk and from there on horse back, rather an un- pleasant ride, the weather was raw and cold. We found that we had a rather large stock of high priced goods on hand, and concluded to try a ven- ture on Rock river. We bought a small keel boat of about 50 tons, loaded her up mostly with grocer- ies with a crew of two men, myself as clerk or supercargo, and Ben Cobb as captain. We left town and got along fine until we struck the rap- ids just below Sears mill. We tried to get over all one day without any success. About one hun- dred men were there at work on the canal near by, and I hired a number of them to help us over. 78 They took hold each side of the boat and lifted us over, it took all one day, and then we went on our way rejoicing, landing near night just above and opposite Carrs ferry. When w r e got here we found our boat was leaking badly, and we had to keep the pumps going nearly all night. There was considerable wind blowing and we were lyingon a muddy bottom. The mud and the soaking of the water stopped the seams, and we had very little trouble after with a leaky boat. Stopping along the river wherever there was a settlement to supply the wants of the people, we came to the Sterling rapids, but had no difficulty in get- ting over them. We stopped at Portland, lying a short distance below Prophetstown some two weeks, as here we found a large settlement of well- to-do farmers, with whom we opened a brisk trade. Here 1 became acquainted with 1. 1). Seely an enterprising go ahead man, much respected in that section of the country. Just above Portland I found a »on of Professor Dwight, of Harvard college. He had a large beautiful farm in agreat bend of the river, a very comfortable good sized log house. 1 took dinner with him in his bach- elor quarters, and found him to be a very agree- able cultivated gentleman. Some years later I met a man who was his foreman on the farm, at the time I was there. I met him on the line of the North Missouri railroad, he was a regular cor- respondent of the New York Tribune at the time. 7!> In talking about Mr. Dwight he told me that on one Sunday morning he found Dwight dressed uj> in his best, with white kid gloves walking up and down on his porch. He asked him what lie was dressed up for, as there was no one to see him. His reply was "God sees me," that is enough. We stooped some time at Dixon, cpiitea thriving town with a number of stores. Henry and My res F. Truett, two of my Galena friends in after years had a store here. The town was named after Mr. Dixon the first settler, and who owned and run a ferry for many years there. A short distance above we came to Grand De Tour, found a narrow canal cut across the great bend of the river form- ing a good water power, and a grist and sawmill in operation. Quite a number of Moline friends came from there, John Deere, Mr. Hem m way and a number of others came to Moline a few years after. We made our slow toilsome way up the river as far as Rockford. Whenever we came to swift water which occurred quite often, we had all to take a hand at the setting poles. At one place below Rockford we found the current so swift we could not stem it. So we hired an old horse to help us ovei with a towline, but the cur- rent proved too strong for the horse, the boat striking a strong current commenced drifting down stream, throwing the horse on his side un- til he came to a rocky ledge and acting as an an- chor the boat was stopped. 80 Rockford at this time had some 1,500 to 2,000 people a beautiful thriving town, with an improv- ed water power. We, of course could do nothing here, so we turned our bow down streams. This trip satisfied me that Rock river could not besuc- cessfully navigated by steam boats unless a large amount of money was spent in improving the navigation. Our venture was not a very profi- table one, but still we did not lose any money, and sold off our surplus of goods. This whole Rock River valley was so beautiful, with groves of timber scattered all along its banks and rich gen- tly rolling prairies that it attracted more atten- tion and drew a larger and better class of popula- tion at this early day than any other part of the state. In the spring of 1840 I married my wife, the daughter of Wm. Brooks, who came from Northern New Hampshire in the fall of 1835 com- ing all the way with his wife and three children: Wm. E, George and Jeannette, in acarriage, and sending their household goods round by New Orleans. They came here in November and moved into what was called the Farham or Ferry house, which stood until about 1875 just below the Gable mansion. The next year he built a hewn log house on the corner lot on second street, west of the opera house. A few years later he erected the frame dwelling on what is called the Brooks farm on Fifth avenue. There is quite a story connected with the entry of this fractional quarter 81 section of land at the land office at Galena. Win. Brooks before starting for Galena to enter this land, learned that John H. Sulivan, a much younger man intended to go on the first boat to Galena, to enter the same piece of land, the boat was due in the morning and Mr. Brooks knew that in the race up the steep bank at Galena to Bench street where the land office was situated, Sulivan would outrun him. He consulted with Charles Eames, his brother-in-law, and they concluded that Mr. Eames should start that night on a good horse they had and try to beat the boat, and that Mr. Brooks should go on the boat taking the specie along with him to enter the land. Mr. Eames started in the afternoon, stopping at Port Byron that night. His next stop was at Mr. Pierce's, at Savanna, who gave him a fresh horse to continue his night ride. Mr. Eames had been over the road before and was familiar with the route. He passed by Pilot Knob, Hinckley's Mound and the little rugged city soon came in view at about 9 o'clock in the morning. As he rode down the steep hill in East Galena, he saw in the distance down the little winding river the smoke of a steam boat. He soon reached the land office and made the application for the land, telling the officers that his brother-in-law would be on the first boat with the money. As he came down the hill he met Sulivan on the keen run. When Sulivan went into the office and found that the land was 82 entered he would not beleive it at first until he saw Mr. Brooks come in with the money and pay for the land. They had made the voyage togeth- er and had talked on various subjects, of every- thing except the entry of the land. A few years after this, Mr. Brooks put up a substantial farm house which is still standing. At this time it was all or nearly all heavily timbered. He obtaind some apple seeds from a barrel of rotten apples and started a nursery from which he set out a large orchard of some fifteen acres on the west side of the so-called Columbian grounds. These trees he afterwards grafted and in a few years rais- ed large quantities of apples which were quite a source of revenue. He told his children that they would see the day when this land lying between the two towns would be worth $500 dollars per acre. His prediction was fulfilled many years ago, and in 1892 the homestead portion contain- ing some twenty-five acres was sold to the Colum- bian syndicate for some sixty thousand dollars. The election of Harrison and Tyler in 1840 did not improve the times as the president died a few months after his election, and under Tyler his successor, who was a double dyed "Pro Slavery" man, the country went back under the control of the Democrats. This control has always prov- en disasterous to the best interests in the Northern states as the Democracy has always been, and still is to this day, under the control of these 83 Southern masters, who now, more than ever, act as a unit with the unprogressive Democracy. In consequence of the hard times in this section of country, this county was infested with many law- less characters. In Marshall county and those adjoining, they had a desperate gang called the Reeves gang, who had terrorized the country for a longtime. This gang of horse thieves and counterfeiters had their rendezvous at the house of old man Reeves. Himself and wife were both very able in ways of duplicity and rascality. Under the guidance and advice of these two, a set of des- perate characters were gathered together, who for a number of years preyed upon the community, They had so many connections and confederates, it was almost impossibleto prove anything against them. They uniformely escaped unwhipt of jus- tice. They finally became so bold and outrageous, that the best men of Marshall, and three or four adjoining counties collected together to the num- ber of four hundred, and went to old Reeves and told him he must leave. They loaded his house- hold goods upon wagons, his virago of a wife and three children following behind. They were all shipped on the steamer Dove down the Illinois river. The torch was then applied to the house and outhouses. The gang was broken up, scat- tered to commence depredation elsewhere. They came to Rock Island and murdered Col. George Davenport. They all belonged to this gang of 84 outlaws except young Baxter. This heinous crime occurred on the 4th of July, in 1846. The family with the servants had all gone over to Rock Island to celebrate the 4th. They wished him to go with them, but he declined to do so. He did not wish to leave the house alone, asa number of suspicious characters had been seen lurking around the neighborhood in canoes. He was provided with a brace of pistols, and took his position in a front room facing the river, leaving a large watch dog near*the rear entrance of the house. The robbers entered the house very quietly in the rear. They had secured as a confederate to guide them, young Baxter, acquainted with the family, and familiar with the dog. He going ahead of them, quieted the dog and opening the rear door secured admis- sion to the house, and going through the room where the Colonel was sitting opened fire upon him, wounding him in the thigh. They demand- ed his money and seizing hold of him roughly, draged him up stairs to the safe. It was open- ed and they found only a few dollars in specie, Baxter had told the robbers there was a large amount in the safe, which was true only a few days before, but Davenport had sent $10,000 to St. Louis only a few days before, so the robbers were disappointed, and departed taking a gold watch and the few dollars in silver found in the safe, giving young Baxter one dollar for his share, leaving the poor Colonel alone weltering in his 85 blood. The family returned at night and found him unconscious, and nearly dead from loss of blood. He lived but a few hours. This brutal assassination caused intense excitement through- out the country, and large rewards were oifered by the governor of Iowa and Illinois, and by the family. This induced the best detective talent of the country to use their efforts to capture the theives and murderers. Among others there was a Mr. Bonney, afterwards the author of "The Ban- dits of the Prairie," who offered his services. He was a shrewd sharp man, and kept watch of the operations of the gang. Their headquarters was at the house of one, Williams, who lived on Rock River, about 12 miles above Rock Island. Mr. Bonney obtained letters of introduction to the gov- ernors of iowa and Illinois, showing the nature of his business. He obtained unsigned bank bills on the state banks of Missouri and the Dubuque bank, in Iowa, and one or two banks ol Illinois. It did not take him long to fall in with some of the gang and showing them these unsigned bills he soon succeeded in gaining their confidence and learning all their plans, and who were the murderers of Col. Davenport, and when his plans were all matured they were arrested. John Young and Aaron, his brother were arrested at the house of their father eight miles east of Galena, his house was in a wild secluded place in the deeply wooded hills of Jo Daviess countv. They were 80 taken to Rock Island and lodged in jail. • Gran- nels Young another of the murderers was arrested. Fox was arrested in Indiana, but somehow man- aged to escape from the sheriff. Birch was arrest- ed at Peoria, and on trial turned states evidence, and was not hanged with the Longs and Youngs. They were convicted and hanged on Oct, 19th, 1845, three months and a half after the murder was committed, (speedy justice was meeted out to them, without the long tedious delays of the pres- ent day. Witness the long, lingering trial of Guiteau for the murder of the lamented Garfield, and again the trial of that worthless vagabond Prendergast, for the murder of Carter Harrison, which at this writing has been in progress two or three weeks and may continue as much longer. The costs of these long lingering suits are paid, one by the government and the other by the mu- nicipality of Chicago.) On the day of execution an immense crowd were assembled. The sheriff had been notified that an attempt at rescue might be made, and then forewarned he had provided for the emergen- cy, by arming some seventy-five trusty citizens as a guard, as it was noticed there were many strange faces and hard looking characters about Rock Island some days preceding the execution. The elder Long made a very long and pathetic speech, and at its close there was a rush towards the gal- lows, but the guards faced about towards the crowd 87 ready to shoot if there was an attempt made at rescue. Whether there was one or not, or wheth- er the rush was only excitement of the crowd was not known. If it meant a rescue it was promptly foiled, and the execution proceeded without fur- ther excitement, and three of these blood stained .assassins were brought to justice. Fox, who was said to be the leader in the murder as before stat- ed and was never heard of again. Young Baxter who volunteered to lead the assassins to the house fled and was in hiding a long time. A rumor came that he was at his brother-in-laws near Mad- ison, Wisconsin. Dr. Gregg who had been untir- ing in his efforts to bring the murderers to justice procured a requisition on the Governor of Wis- consin and with an officer went in search of this foolish young man whoso cheaply sold his ser- vices to the outlaws, they found him at Haneys, he w^s returned to Rock Island, tried for murder and sentenced to state prison for life, dying a few years after of consumption. He made a confession in full, telling all the particulars of the plot. He was well connected. His brother who came from Virginia, was at the time in chargeof the Post on the Island under an appointment by the govern- ment, and the young man was admitted to the friendship and confidence of Col. Davenport, so that at the time, he knew of the large sum of money he supposed was in the house and gave the information to the robbers, they promising him a share of the plunder. 88 Davenport in 1840 had about 500 inhabitants, among the persons whom I recollect then living there were Dr, Barrows, a very skillful physician, who first settled at Rockingham and afterwads married an old acquaintance of mine, Mary Suli- van, sister of I. H.Sulivan, founder of Rocking- ham. The Dr. I think, is still living in Atlanta, Georgia, at the advanced age of 90. Judge James Grant, who came from North Carolina, was one of the most celebrated lawyers of Iowa. I first met him in Chicago in 1834, he had opened an office in a small shanty. I noticed his sign, "law- yers office" and stopped to have a power of attor- ney drawn, when finished I asked how much I had to pay, he said in his off hand way, "one dollar." He told me some years after his price for that kind of ducument would be at least five dollars. An- other pioneer was I. M. D. Burrows, w T ho came from Cincinnati in 1838. Soon after he opened a store and commenced, during the hard times, taking produce from the farmers, the first one to do so in this section of the country. His business gradually increased and developed until he was doing an immense business for that early day. He built a grist mill and packing house, and did more towards building up and developing Daven- port and Scott county than any other in these early days. I had a good many business tran- sactions with him while living in Galena and al- ways found him honest and honorable. Later in 89 life he became embarrassed and very poor, bat the trading spirit was so strong in him that only a few years ago I often saw him pass my house with his old horse and vvagon loaded with vege- tables for the Moline market. In 1880 he wrote and published a very interesting and readable book of some 200 pages. James Mclntoth a Scotchman from Dundee was another noted char- acter owning a portion of the town site and im- proving the same by laying outand improvingthe streets, a very genial man. He was Territorial and State binder for Iowa, and established thenrst book bindery in Davenport. Towards the close of his life he become somewhat embarrassed and despondent and ended his life by suicide at Mc- Gregor, Iowa. George L. Davenport the son of Col. G. Davenport after his marriage to Miss Clark settled in Davenport. He was married at the small Catholic church in Davenport by Father Mazuakette in 1839. Myself and wife before our marriage stood up with them, we afterwards went onto the island and spent the night at Col. Daven- port's house. George L, was very liberal and he and Antonie Leclaire erected many substantial brick buildings in after years. Antonie Leclaire the Indian interpreter and agent must not be forgotten, a half breed, French and Indian, as he said, "the very first white man who settled in Davenport." A very large fleshy man who had not been able to tie his shoes for 90 many years before his death. His house, the only one in 1833 on the site of Davenport stood on the gentle slope some distance below his mansion, built many years later; I recollect it as well as if I saw it only yesterday. Some logs or something- else had been drawn up from the river, making very plain marks up the slope. I was in his old log house a few years after attending a ball, I think. I recollect the largest room in the house was pap- ered in the most georgeous and oriental style, with tropical plants and palm trees. He was a most liberal broad minded man, willing and ready to help the needy and forward every public work for the benefit of the city. He died many years ago. John Forrest, who married my sister, set- tled in Davenport in 1838 He entered a tract of land on the hill which later he laid off into lots. He was postmaster succeeding D. C. Eldridge, and was a magistrate for many years, built the For- rest block on Brady street. He died in the fall of 1893 at the advanced age of 88 years. Leclaireat the head of the rapids, early attract- ed attention as a favorable site for a town. Two of the Davenports, who formerly lived in Rock- ingham, settled there and established a boat yard for the repairing and building of boats. Capt. V. D. Dawley settled there at an early day. The father of Jas. B. Eades settled at the little town of Princeton, two miles above Leclaire. He came from St. Louis, having dune business there under 91 the name of Buchanan & Eades. Port Byron op- posite Leclai re, was laid off in 1836 o* 1 1837 by Archibald Allen and N. Belcher. Mr. Belcher came to Rock Island in 1835, and then moved to Port Byron. He was postmaster under Harrison, and after Harrison's death under the reign of Tyler, he received a letter from the postmaster general, requiring his written assent to a certain policy. The circular stated he must sign it. In- stead he wrote a most scathing letter, which was published in the Rock Island paper and also in the Galena Gazette. Joe Knox or some one here sent a copy of the paper to the department, and Belcher was forthwith removed. After the Repub- licans came into power he was again appointed and held the office for many years. He was a strong vigorous writer. Silas Marshall with his large interesting family, who married Belcher's sister, settled there about the same time and kept a good hotel. The young people of Rock Island used to often get up dancing parties in the winter, going up in large sleighs with plenty of hay in the bottom. They generally kept up the dance until morning. Sometime along in the fifties under a Demo- cratic and pro slavery administration, it was giv- en out that the secretary of war would sell the island, that it would soon be subject to entry, our Southern masters, thinking we had no need of a site for arsenals or forts at the North. It was in 92 the winter season when the report got out and there was a rush for the island to secure squatter claims, by erecting small shanties and living in them a few days. They all had to leave in the spring as the policy of selling the island was abandoned, it was said through the influence of Jeff Daviess, who at one time was stationed here before he was at Fort Crawford. If this was so, we will give him all due credit for the same. Lemuel Andrews my old partner in business was a shrew 7 d sharp man, a true friend to those he liked, but a bitter unrelenting enemy to those who crossed his path. He had somewhat of a legal mind. The lawyers said he was a good judge of land titles and his knowledge in this re- spect enabled him to acquire at cheap rates a number of tracts of land with defective titles and he also, while sheriff of the county accumulated a good deal by tax titles, which he perfected. We built together the first brick store which is still standing just east of the court house square, ad- joining the house Mrs. Cobb occupied so long. This house he also put up and occupied for some years. He erected a saw and grist mill combined, in the lower part of the city in 1841. He in con- nection with some others built the steamer, Clar- ion, atilizing the wreck of the old steamer, Bra- zil, which was sunk near the government toll wagon bridge by the ice. Later he erect- ed and occupied the large costly mansion for so 93 many years known as the Cable residence. He at the time owned a large tract of land in the neighborhood including all the land in the lower part of the Twenty-ninth or Elm street. He and Daniel A. Barrows owned a tract of land, some 30 acres, embracing the ground where the lower Moline school house stands. The land was platted and divided between them and I after- wards sold most of the lots and the land embrac- ing the high bluff just south of the school house, to John Deere. The sale in all amounting to some $15,000. He was always deeply in debt, but always man- aged to escape from judgments and creditors by frequent transfers of his property. This cause has tended to somewhat complicate the titles of some of the property in which he was interested. When he died in 1860 his estate was deeply embarrassed, but under the wise judicious management of Judge Gould the administrator, some part of it was saved for his widow and two children, Lemuel and El- len. Elisha P. Reynolds came here in 1838 at an early day, he owned and built the house in which I now live at the corner of Fifth Avenue and Twen- ty-Ninth street. About this time he entered into partnership with Christopher Atkinson in the brick making business. Their first brick yard was located near the corner of Twenty -Ninth street and Seventh Avenue. Not finding enough 94 clay here they commenced making brick at the present site of the brick yard on the hill which has been so long used in brick making by Wm. Atkinson & Oloff, The first contract for railroad work was with the C. R. & R. I., in building the embankment to the approaches to their old line across the Island for the bridge which crossed the slough. In this he showed his natural shrewd- ness by using the sand found close at hand in- stead of haulingthe dirt from a distance, as other builders expected to do. In 1857 he took a con- tract to grade a number of miles for the Racine railroad, which was based mainly on bonds is- sued on farm mortgages given by the farmers along the line, At this time there was some hitch in obtaining the money that was due him for work done, and the financial crash of that year found him unable to pay the men he had employed in the work. In August of that year [ bought the place I now occupy of Hibbard Moore, paying a fancy price for it. An amount that would have bought six times the amount of real estate the next year, so I was told. Mr. Moore who was a good friend of Mr. Reynolds loaned him $8,000, which he has often told me, saved him from bank- ruptcy. From this time he continued to do more or less railroad work, until the firm of Reynolds, Salpaugh & Co., was formed, when they commen- ced taking many contracts for building railroads and bridges, sometimes making a good deal of 95 money and sometimes losing largely. They took a contract to build some 400 miles of road in Texas, on which each of the four partners engag- ed lost some $20,000. A few years after the part- nership of Reynolds and Salpaugh was disolved and the firm of E. P. Reynolds & Co., was reorgan- ized, composed of his three sons, in which Porter Skinner often had an interest. The new firm be- came very popular, having the reputation of al- ways doing good work and doing as they agreed. They built many hundreds of miles of road in the west and south, and made a good deal of money as long as E. P. Reynolds had the leading direction and management. He became somewhat infirm of late years, and some losing contracts were made by the boys, i contract in Indiana and another in Kentucky, proving very disastrous financially, culminating in losing over half a million of dol- lars. Mr. Reynolds credit was excellent, and lor the last three or four years before his death he borrowed sums ranging from $2,000 to $10,000, of his neighbors and of some of his employers, who were some of them left destitute, he thinking no doubt that he would be able sooner or later to re- place the money. He was elected mayor one or two terms, serving very acceptably. What- ever work he had done was well done. He open- ed and improved the best appointed farm in the county, in Pleasant Valley, converting valuless marsh land by a thorough system of drainage 96 into rich productive fields. The whole tract of 440 acres is the most of it in a high state of culti- vation with large barns and other buildings for stock. Mr. Reynolds was possessed of a strong vigorous mind, his impulses were generally in the right direction, a good kind neighbor and re- spected by all. I have written somewhat at length of these two men, my old associates and friends, because I consider them both to have been leading representative men among the early pio- neers of Rock Island. In 1854 the first railroad to reach the Mississip- pi river was the Chicago & Rock Island. The con- tract to build this road was let to Henry Farnam and Joseph Sheffield, both coming from Connec- ticut, where they had considerable experience in rail road and canal building. They commenced this work in April 1852, and finished it to Rock Island in February 1854. The main direction of this work was under the direction and manage- ment of Henry Farnam, who with indomitable energy pushed it through to completion in four months less time than the contract called for. Our old neighbor John Warner and Wm. Whitman took large sub-contracts for grading, and after the completion of the road, a company was organized to build the bridge across the Mis- sissippi river. John Warner had the contract for building the stone peers and abutments. This work was done in 1855. The Chicago and Galena 97 railroad was commenced some two years before and had only reached Elgin, when the Rock Island road was commenced, and Mr. Farnam was anxious to reach the Mississippi first, which he did, some two years before. Completion of the Chicago & It. I. It. It. to Rock Island. The Great It. It. Excursion to St. Paul. The Galena road was finished to Freeport, fifty miles east of Galena, by the Chicago Galena compan} 7 , and after a delay of two years or more, the road was taken in hand by the Illinois Cen- tral who built it to Galena in the year 1856, and some months after was extended to the Mississip- pi river opposite Dubuque. The Chicago direc- tors were afraid of the heavy work through the rough Jo Daviess hills, the deep cut and heavy grade at Scales Mound, and sold out their birth- right to the Central. Win. B. Ogden, a broad liberal minded man, who took a leading part in the road from its beginning, was bitterly opposed to the policy of selling out, or rather giving up their right to the Central. When the road reach- ed Rock Island in February there was a celebra- tion, a jolification, firing cannons, speeches, etc. But the great event was the railroad and steam- boat excursion to St. Paul, Minn. Mr. Farnam invited the stockholders and their families, and a number of the representative men of New Eng- 98 land and New York. Ex-President Filmore,. Thurston Ward, Chas. A.Dana, of the New York Tribune, and some six or eight other editors of leading Eastern papers, besides a number of col- lege professors, who were among the invited guests,, numbering in all some 600. On their arrival at Rock Island they were met by six fast and beauti- ful steamers belonging and owned in Galena, and engaged in the Galena, Dubuque and St. Paul trade, and given a free ride to St. Paul. The boats composing the fleet were the Golden Era. Capt. Hiram Bersie an old time friend and partner of mine in milling; Lady Franklin, Capt. Blakeley; The Galena. Capt. Orrin Smith; War Eagle, Capt. Smith Harris; The Sparkawk,Capt. Green. Two other boats joined the procession near Galena, taking many passengers from Dubuque and Ga- lena. The river^was high and often two boats would be joined together for miles, and passen- gers would pass from one to the other. On their arrival at St. Paul where they stopped two days, they were greeted and treated royally by the peo- ple. On Jtheir return all those who wished to re- turn east, by the way of Rock Island took passage on four of the fastest steamers, and reached Rock Island in less than thirty-six hours. This was the grandest excursion ever given on the great river and a notable event in the history of Rock Island and was far reaching in its effects on the rapid settlement of Northern Iowa and the new unde- 99 veloped state of Minnesota. It attracted wide at- tention in all the Eastern states, as nearly all the leading editors who enjoyed the excursion intense- ly, had long articles in their several papers, de- scribing the delightful scenery, through which they passed, and the immense resources of the Northwest. These reports and the comments of others to their neighbors on their return home, started a rush of emigrants for this new country. The magnificent steamers belonging to the Galena and St. Paul company were after this, usually crowded with emigrants, mostly coining in by the way of Freeport from the end of the unfinished Chicago and Galena railroad, by stage from Free- port and taking passage at Galena. This pros- perous state of affairs continued for two years. The little wharf at Galena being crowded with business, two or three boats leaving daily for St. Paul, until the Illnois Central reached the Mis- sissippi at Dunleith opposite Dubuque. There was quite a rapid trade sprung up in Rock Island after the completion of the R. R. New enterprises were started, new stores were erected, some manufactories, a large iron foundry was erec- ted by N. B. Buford, who also built a pork house and the large three story house on First street fac- ing the river, now occupied by our old able edi- tor of the Union, Walter Johnson. During this time Col. Chas Buford started the plow factory that is still in operation under a new company L.ofC. 100 and a new management. The coal banks out at Coal Valley were opened at an earlier day, by Ben Harper, Homes Hakes and S. S. Guyer, and they began to supply boats with coal and to ship north. I bought a number of barge loads for our steam flour mill at Galena, paying 12J cents per bushel delivered. These mines fell into the hands of P. L. Cable later, and proved a great source of profit to him under his wise management, giving his miners J of the gross product of the mines. He never had a strike under this system, clearly de- monstrating that under this system of sharing profits with the employes, strikes are avoided and labor is more likely to reap a proper share of their earnings; wherever and whenever this system has been inaugurated under well directed and honest management, it has uniformly proven a success. I believe that this is to be in the future the solu- tion of the trouble between labor and capital. All sorts of manufacturing can be carried on in this way, and even railroads might be run in this way were it not for the watered stock and the greed of many connected with the management of outside operations. For many years Mr. Cable had the monopoly of the coal trade, as he owned and con- trolled the railroad leading to the mines. These mines and the ones opened in Mercer county to which he built a railroad have been a constant source of a large yearly income. In the interval between 1854 and 1857 and later, a number of 101 banks were started by P. L. Mitchell & P. L. Cable, N. B. Buford; Birch & Blackburn opened one; and Marcus Osborn and Wm. Lee also opened a bank. The Financial Panic of 1857. General Suspension of nearly all Western Banks. When the crisis of 1S57 came on, these bank- ing institutions all went down except one, Mit- chell & Cable. The country seemed to be pros- pering at the time, but unlimited credits were given to almost any enterprise, speculation had received an impetus from the large amounts of gold brought from California. The first of the in- stitutions to fall was the one at Cincinnati which had many branches, and the main one in New York. They were allowing 5 or 6 per cent. on de- posits and many of our Western bankers made their deposits with the New York branches, de- positing all their spare funds and drawing against this branch whenever they sold exchange. This institution was the first brick to tumble in the row and a money panic seemed to seize the whole coun- try, and there was a general suspension of specie payments with most of the Western banks. Our old friends, Marcus Osborne and Wm. L. Lee, suc- cumbed to the storm. Mr. Osborne retired to the shades of a littietown on Lake Pepin and remained until the storm blew over. Wm. L. Lee went to Col- orado and recuperated his fallen fortunes, settling 102 and living in Chicago for many years after, dying a short time ago in Hot Springs, Arkansas. In 1866, I bought of him the acre of ground on which stand the Telgler and Larkin houses. Real estate went down and everything was dead in the way of business for three or four years un- til the commencement of the Civil war. Many new branches of manufacturing industry had been started in Moline which were compelled to quit, some of them becoming bankrupt. Even our old valued friend, John Deere, was compelled to ask for an extension. Galena perhaps stood the onslaught better than any other city in the West, only one banking house being compelled to close and make a compromise with its creditors, the house of James Carter. He had deposited large- ly with the Cincinnati concern. He was fortunate in the outcome however, as in settlement he took some railroad securities at a low figure, which in a short time when the panic was over largely ap- preciated so that he was the gainer by the failure. He was the father of Leslie Carter, who had so much trouble with his extravagant actress wife. He was also connected with George Smith and Alexander Mitchell, of Milwaukee, in banking operations. As long as I am now writing about bankers, I might as well give some reminiscences connected with these three Scotch bankers, Carter, who lived in Galena, Mitchell in Milwaukee, and Smith in 103 •Chicago. James Carter came to Galena in 1843, he was started in the banking business, assisted hy his two Scotch friendsanddoneall the business through them. At this time the Corwith brothers, Henry and Nathan were the only bankers in Ga- lena, and dene a large share of the lead trade, buying the lead from the smelters and shipping it East by way of St. Louis. These cunning Scotch- men wished to have a share in this lucrative trade. The Corwiths continued to do the larger share of the ban king and lead business, their bank was a bank of issue, called the Galena bank, and is still at this writing carried on by the successors of the Corwiths. Sometime along in the50s, and before this time George Smith had* a banking con- cern called The Milwaukee Fire Insurance com- pany. . He also obtained possession of the charter of a bank at Atlanta, Georgia. It was his practice to send a large amount of his Milwaukee bank notes down to Atlanta for circulation there, and his Atlanta notes were brought north for circula- tion. Any bank that would not circulate this wild •cat money if they had any bills in circulation, they would be gathered up and sent to the bank for redemption in specie. In this way he forced a good many of the banks in this section to take and circulate his Georgia money. He commenc- ed this game on the Galena bank and also on the Mineral Point bank owned and controlled by C. C. Washburn and Cyras Woodman. These banks 104 would not touch the Georgia money; utterly re- fused to give it circulation. Jas. Carter as soon as he took in a few hundred dollars of the bills of these two banks would present them and demand the specie, and this circulation was very large in the mining region. These two banks concluded to play the same game on George Smith, and they quietly gathered up a number of thousand dollars of George Smith's Atlanta money and C. 0. Washburn afterwards Gov. of the State of Wiscon- sin, wended his way down to Atlanta and calling at the bank demanded the specie. They wished to redeem the bills with eastern exchange, but Washburn demanded the coin, and they com- menced counting it out as slowly as possible and borrowing all the coin in town the bills were re- deemed at last. Our two banks followed up the same system all one season, sending down mes- sengers every month to Atlanta with the Georgia money for redemption. George Smith at last cried "pecavi" and instructed Jas. Carter to stop the game and that was the means by which the weak- er banks of the country were relieved from taking this Georgia money. Removal From Rock Island to Galena in 1841, As before stated I married my wife in the spring of 1840. We were married by Rev. Stewart, who was induced to come here from Southern Illinois, 105 by Knox and Mexter and start a church it was called their church or society. Mr. Stewart was a very talented man, a good thinker and soon had quite a respectable congregation of persons who were not attached to any church. He afterwads became a follower of Emanuel Swedenburg's teach- ings. I met him some years after and heard him preach in a small church in St. Louis. We commenced housekeeping in a small brick house, the first brick dwelling erected in the town. It was built by and belonged to Sage & Bellows. As I have before stated all business was par- alized, little or no money was in circulation, and what little there was, was of doubtful value, and the little building or improvement thatwas made in any line of business was done by a system of barter or exchange of commodaties or labor. Underthis state of affairs I began to look around and see if I could find a locality where I could earn a living for my young wife and myself. About this time my cousin, E. B. Kimball, of Ga- lena, who had been in business therefor four or five years wished to change his location by open- ing a commission house in New Orleans, at the request and wish of Henry Cor with, who after- wards married his wife's sister, a daughter of Jas. G. Soulard. He wished him to go there to for- ward the large amount of lead that was being sent from Galena to New York by his firm of Henry and Nathan Corwith. Mr. Kiml all wished me to 106 come to Galena and take charge of what business he had to leave unsettled. He promising to send me consignments of sugar, coffee and mining rope and giving me also the agency for the sale of Laff- lin's blasting powder. So we packed up a few house- hold goods, and with them took passage on the steamer Frontier with Capt. Smith Harris. When I left Rock Island I was liable for debts contract- ed in the two firms with which I had been connec- ted, to the amount of $20,000, some $15,000 in the firm of Miller & McMaster, and about $5,000 in the firm of Andrews & McMaster. The first I compromised and settled in 1848. Mr. Andrews settled the other in the course of four or five years. Of course with this heavy liability hang- ing over me I could not with safety, do any thing except a commission business. We found a good comfortable house on the south side of the steep hill standing just opposite theold Harris mansion near the foot of Gear street, both are still there. We were made very welcome by my many old friends of 1834. I took a store just east of the large double brick store at the head of the levee, and commenced anew to try and build up my shattered fortunes. As I a done strictly commis- sion business, I soon received many consignments of various kinds of goods besides those sent me by my cousin Kimball. I received large consign- ments of apples from St. Charles, Mo., amounting in 1843 to some 2,000 barrels and soon had all I 107 could do, my business steadily increasing. The winter set in early in 1842. On the 14th day of November, steam boats were taking on lead for St. Louis. I shipped a number of tons on the Brazil expecting it to get through to New Orleans and be shipped east to meet some bills falling due soon, made by Mr. Kimball. The weather was quite mild until night, when it turned suddenly very cold, and within thirty-six hours the Mis- sissippi was closed from Galena to St. Louis. The Brazil got to Rock Island and wintered there. Many other boats were caught on their way up the river with supplies, at different points, and the goods on many of them were hauled by teams during the winter on the ice. A furious snow storm set in on the 15th, falling to the depth of 18 inches. Heavy snow covered the ground all winter. The cold was intense, the thermometer marking 20° to 30 ° below. The month of March ranged up to the close 15 ° to 25 ® . The river was not open for navigation before the 15th of April. Lake Pepin was closed until the 20th of May. This winter was decidedly the coldest of any with- in my recollection of the past sixty years. About all we could do in Galena this winter was to stay at home and keep up the fire. The output of the mines kept steadily increasing. New and valu- able leads were being opened in Illinois and the adjoining lead district in Wisconsin. The busi- ness of the little city was steadily increasing. 108 Stages and hacks were leaving almost daily for the different mining towns of Shullsburg, Fair- play, Hazel Green, Mineral Point and New Dig- gings. The levee would be so thickly covered with piles of pigs of lead, that it was often diffi- cult in the spring to find a place to land goods from the steam boats. Sketches of some Leading Galena Men in Early- Days. At this time and later all the adjoining terri- tory in Wisconsin and east, as far as Rockford and South as far as Rock Island was more or less tributary to Galena, as Chicago was then no com- petitor for this trade. A little later large capa- cious brick stores began to take the place of the frame tenements along the levee and along the line ot Main street. Gold and silver being the currency as I have before stated, the breaking and insolvency of banks had very little effect on the prosperity of the city. Quite a number of the older firms who were in business in 1834 had either failed or gone out of business. Hoper Peck & Scales, Little & Wann, Campbell & Morehouse had failed. R. W. Brash, Farnsworth and Fergu- son, G. W. and I. Atchison, and M. C Comstock had quit business. M. C. Comstock, whose store was down near the foot of the levee, sold out his stock to that old rusher Hesikiah H. Gear. Gear went into the store and told Comstock he 109 wished to buy him out, and told him, "I will give you so much for thisside of the store, and so much for that side." Mr. Comstock a shrewd merchant at once accepted his offer, as the price offered was a good round one, for an old stock of goods. In 1835 and 36, Godfrey &Gillman, of Alton, in con- nection with some other Boston capitalists under- took to build up a town there as a rival to St. Louis, At this time the state bank had branches in many parts of the state, one at Alton, and one at Galena. As a means to this end they under- took to control the lead trade of Galena, and they made my old friend Gear, their agent, supplying him for awhile with unlimited means. His first purchase was Comstock's store, and then he com- menced buying lead, running the price up from week to week, buying furnaces and mineral and advancing the price of mineral largely. He was a very popular man with the miners during this time. He advanced the price of lead untilit was about equal to the price in New York. It is told of him that one day he went to a bank at Galena and wished the cashier to let him have $100,000, and as cooly as if he expected to get it, offering his draft on Godfrey, Gillman & Co. This was kept up for some months. The lead was shipped to Alton and some of it forwarded east, but the larger part was held at Alton and finally had to be sold at a heavy loss, and the attempt to build up Alton as a rival to St. Louis was a miserable 110 failure, bringing disaster upon all concerned. Our state bank, which had been advancing means to many other projects equally visionary owing to the financial crisis of 1837, went down, suspending specie payments, bringing loss and ruin upon thousands. Captain Gear, who had some means of his own, saved something out of the wreck. He owned a number of acres of land south of Gear street. When the Illinois Central reached Ga- lena their route over the river passed through the captain's land at a rocky point where there was a deep cut of some 40 to 50 feet. I think he was awarded $20,000 first as damages. A most ex- travagant price, and with the ^proceeds he built himself a large substantial brick house under the bluff overlooking the railroad. Sometime after the road was built the Captain discovered that the track of the road at the east end of the cut for a distance of about 50 feet in length and two feet wide was on his land. He demanded a round sum as damages, which the road refused to pay. To force them to pay he planted a strong post close to the track and hitched a heavy chain to the post and track. The road set a few men to work on the other side and cutting down the rocky bank quietly moved the rails off his ground, much to the disgust of the valiant captain. He was a visionary obstinate man, but withal had many good traits of character. His brother an Episco- pal clergyman, occasionally preached in Galena. Ill He was chaplain at Fort Snellingfor some years, and the father of Governor Gear of Burlington, Iowa. About this time or one or two years later Joseph P. Hoge, a noted lawyer, came here. He was elected a member of congress in 1844, I think, later he went to California and became very prominent, taking a leading part in the politics of that state. Sam Wilson, who was his law part- ner, went with him and w T as president of the con- stitutional convention held a few years ago, Judge Thomas -Brown was the father-in-law of Hoge. He was a character in his way, many amusing anecdotes are told about him. He was a man of strong natural sense, but somewhat illiterate. A man in one of the middle counties of the state was arraigned for murder. The jury brought him in guilt}', and the punishment was death. The old judge said to him, "Smith the jury have found you guilty, I feel sorrow for you, but you must be hung. Now what time would you like to be hung?" Smith replied he "did not care." "Well, you will be hung on the 27th of June. Mr. clerk, please look and see if the 27th comes on Sunday. The prosecuting attorney says "Judge it is usual to make some remarks to prisoners who are under sentence of death." "Oh, Smith understands it. He knows he is to be hung on the 27th of June. You understand it that way, don't you Smith?" The Judge's circuit covered a number of coun- 112 ties in Northern Illinois, including Rock Island and Henry counties. While holding court in Henry county, a number of Galena lawyers were down, and Joe Knox, Jos. Wells and a young law- yer, L. B. Waite, of Rock Island. Waite was always showing off his knowledge of Greek and Latin. One night when they all had their lodging in a large room of the hotel, Mr. Waite after asking the judge a number of questions, says "Judge how would you render this sentence." "The monelleri ninspresus." "Well, Mr. Waite, I think a free translation would be: The more you cry the less you ." A roar greeted this reply of the old Judge and some of the lawyers rolled out on the floor in their glee, and there was not much sleep in that room for some hours. The story stuck to young Waite for a long time. Thompson Campbell a brilliant young lawyer came to Galena from Pittsburg, he was elected a member of congress for one or two terms. He was an eloquent public speaker and were it not for his dissipated habits, he might have become the foremost man in the state. His house adjoin- ed mine on the steep side of the hill. About the time that it was left to the people to vote on a pro- hibitary law he had reformed, and I went with him over a part of the country trying to arouse the voters in favor of the law. When the day of election came I stood at the polls all day challeng- ing many foreigners who had no right to vote, 113 who were brought there by the saloon men. The measure was defeated by an overwhelming major- ity in the state. This measure of reform has not been submitted to the vote of the people since. Genial Tom Campbell emigrated to California some years later, and died there some fifteen years ago. Judge Drummond and Wm. H. Bradly were living in Galena at this time. Mr. Bradly was for many years clerk of our Circuit Court in Jo Daviess County. When Mr. Drummond was appointed judge of the United States court at Chicago, Brad- ly was selected by him as clerk of that court, a position that he held until a short time before his death which occurred in 1890. Judge Drummond resigned his position some years ago and was suc- ceeded by Judge Blodgett. They both were very able men and were recognized as the ablest of any in the West. Another keen shrewd lawyer whom I knew in 1834 that I forgot to mention, who re- sided in Galena was Ben Mills who was consider- ed the most astute lawyer in Northern Illinois. In 1844 I went into partnership with Edward Hempstead, the son of Chas. S. Hempstead, who settled in Galena in about 1828 coming from St. Louis. He was the brother of Edward Hemp- stead, a prominent man in the early history of St. Louis, and was a representative to congress from that state soon after it was admitted into the the Union. We neither of us had much capital 114 to start upon, bat were always able to get all the funds necessary to carry on our business^ of our good friends, Henry and Nathan Corwith. My partner in 1845 married the sister of the Corwith's. Henry Corwith the elder brother came to Galena in 1836. He opened a clothing store on the cor- ner of Morrison's ally. I have often heard him say that the first work he done was to plaster the store, they had learned the trade on Long Island, New York. His uncle Chas. H. Rodgers was a part- ner, who lived in New York. He and his brother continued in the clothing trade until about 1843. In the mean time they had gradually drifted into the lead trade and in a few years they were doing the larger share of this lucrative business and in the meantime established the bank of Galena. Samuel Hughlett another strong character, an early settler in this region, a successful miner and smelter took a large blo<-Jk of stock in the bank, which is still, I believe held by his heirs. In 184G I took my first trip to the falls of St. Anthony, an excursion party of some 50 ladies and gentlemen took passage with Capt. Orrin Smith. We all en- joyed the beautiful scenery, all along our course. It was the first of July, about the time we reached Prairie Du Chien, a cold change set in. In a few hours after the most of us were taken with sneez- ing. The attack was something like la grippe of the present day, only it was soon over, and was not followed by any bad after effects. When we 115 arrived at the fort, the Captain who had a large quantity of freight to discharge, gave us the whole day in which to visit the falls, also putting up a good substantial lunch for our dinner. The offi- cers of the fort kindly furnished us with three or four mule teams and rough wagons for our trip over the broad beautiful prairie, between the fort and falls. We did not stop at the Minehaha falls as we knew nothing about them, but crossed the stream that dashes over the falls just above. We stopped just below the falls of St. Anthony on a sloping grassy bank on the north shore and spread out our repast on the grass, enioying the music of the falling waters. The fall at this time was near- ly a perpendicular one, of about 50 feet before the present massive work thatat present controlls this immense power was built. Much ofthe loose sand- stone rock had crumbled away and within a few years the falls were no longer perpendicular. The only building visible in this neighborhood was an old dilapidated saw mill, erected some years before by the government. St. Paul had no ex- istauce, the present site was called Pigs Eye. The origin of this name I never heard. It may have been named from a cave washed out by a small clear stream from the soft white sand rock that underlies this section of the country. The cave is, or was situated a short distance above the land- ing. The opening to the cave looked at from a distance, looked like an eye. A few years after, the 116 engineer in chief of the Illinois Central railroad and myself, when that road gave an excursion to St Paul, explored this cave. We had a candle to light our way. After going in ahout 100 feet the passage became so low and narrow that we were glad to beat a retreat. A brewing company after- wards utilized it for a beer cellar excavating the soft sand rock, and making a large spacious room in front. The Indians had some legend connect- ed with this cave. During the winter of 1846, I left Galena to go East to buy a stock of goods for our firm. I went all the way by stage to Buffalo, passing through Canada by way of Detroit, traveling night and day, a very uncomfortable tedeous journey. At Detroit a man by the name of Bates joined us, he was a leading whig editor of Detroit. A great ad- mirer of Horace Greely, with whom he was well acquainted, having been an apprentice with him in some office a few years before. We went through Canada on runners, when near Buffalo, just be- fore crossing above the falls our sleigh which was a covered one upset, and a woman, who was trav- eling with us had to be pulled out of the top. It was at night, and the ice was running quite heav- ily, it seemed to me a very perilous trip, but we arrived safely on the other side; stopping over night, I took the New York Central for Boston, my destination. Arriving there I presented my letters of credit and introduction, and was 117 treated very kindly by Mr. Winslow, the grocer whom I had met before in Galena. While in Boston I met an old St. Louis acquaintance, Lyman Farwell, of the firm of L. and A. G. Far- well in St. Louis, and of Fay & Farwell in Bos- ton. After purchasing what goods I needed in Boston, I started on my way to New Orleans by way of New York. When just out of New York we encountered a furious snow storm in New Jersey, and were detained some hours. I went by way of Baltimore, arriving there in the night, from there taking the stage over the Alleghanies to Pittsburg. In the journey from New York to Pittsburg [ had for a companion a brother of Charles Atkinson, a genial pleasant gentleman. From Pittsburg to New Orleans I took passage on a steam boat paying twelve dollars only, for a cabin passage, on the way down the Mississippi, the boat stopped one morning at Baten Rouge. The scene that greeted me was a strange one, just coming from the cold icy North. The weather was balmy as spring, the song of the birds was heard coming from the bright green Magnolia trees. I spent two weeks in New Orleans with my cousin, E. B. Kimball, buying a large stock of groceries, con- sisting of sugar, molasses and coffee. I was not very favorably impressed with the city of New Orleans, with its flat wet surface, walking along the brick pavements, the water would rise up be- tween the bricks. The dead had to be laid awav 118 in vaults built on a heavy wall two or three feet above the surface of the ground. Most of the steam boats engaged in the lower Mississippi trade carried both frieght and passen- gers. We took a very large and roomy boat with good accommodations for passengers. The boat I came up on was full of passengers, belonging mostly to St. Louis. Capt, Orrin Smith and Capt. Throckmorton were of my fellow passengers. We arrived at Cairo, at the mouth of the Ohio, on the 6th of March, and found the Mississippi full of ice. We were detained here six days before we could proceed on our journey. The evenings were us- ually passed in dancing. We had ample time to explore the famous town of Cairo, with its high embankments, raised to keep out the Ohio and Mississippi floods. The first work done here in constructing these levees was performed by Capt King, an old time resident of Rock Island. While on our way up, Capt. Smith and myself made a bargain with Capt. Throckmorton to take our freight to Galena at fifty cents per 100 pounds. When we arrived at St. Louis we learned that the upper river was very low, and boats were asking and getting 75 cents per lOO. Capt. Throckmor- ton performed his verbal agreement honorably and fairly, fortunately meeting a slight rise al the lower rapids, and this ended my long weary win- ter journey of two months or more. 119 Mormanism in Illinois. In 1833 the Mormons emigrated from Western New York to Jackson county, Missouri. They settled at and began to build a town called Inde- pendence, Here pretending the Lord had given them the whole country, they being his saints, they were to possess the whole earth eventually. They committed some petty offences. They were so arrogant that people became disgusted with them and drove them out. They next settled down in Caldwell and Davis counties, and built up a city called Far West. In their new place of abode they seemed to learn nothing from their disasters in the past, but still claimed to be God's chosen people and that they were entitled to take posses- sion of the land. They continued to be more and more aggressive in their demands. It was alleg- ed that they were continually committing depre- dations on the Gentiles, by robbery and petty thefts. This state of affairs continued for two or three years. The clerk of the county being a Mormon would serve no writs against a Mormon. They defied the state all through. The neighboring people assembled in arms to drive them out of the state. Armed bands of Mormons were roam- ing about, plundering and robbing. Armed col- lissions occurred in which a number were killed. Finally Gov. Boggs called out the military under the command of Gen. Lucas and Gen. Doniphan, 120 with orders that the Mormons should be extermi- nated or driven from the state. The Mormons were all under arms, intending to resist, but they were surrounded by an overwhelming force in their city of Far West, and were compelled tosur^ render at discretion. The leaders including the prophet, Joe Smith were tried by court marshall and condemned to be shot for treason. Gen. Doniphan, a good lawyer knew this course would not be lawful or right, and the leaders were re- manded to jail to be tried for murder, arson and robbery. But they finally made their escape out of the state before they were brought to trial. The whole body of Mormons came to Illinois during the years of 1838 and 1839. While I was at Louisiana in 1838 I saw many of them leaving the state, crossing the Mississippi at different points, but most of them crossed in the ferry at Quincy. I saw many cases of suffering among them as they were driven out in the win- ter season. Fortunately the winter was a mild one. While at Louisiana I heard one of them preach a sermon. It did not differ much from an ordinary orthodox sermon. In holding up the terrors of hell before his hearers his sermon was much the same as the orthodox of that benight- ed time. There was much sympathy felt for them by the people of Illinois, as it was thought they were driven out of Missouri on account of their religion. They terminated their wander- 121 ings by settling down at Nauvo, a beautiful site on a sloping elevation at the head of the lower rapids. They were an industrious set of people and soon had built up a thriving city. They spread all over the county of Hancock, and were so numerous in the county that they controlled the courts and all the offices of the county. The leaders sent out missionaries all over the country and some to Europe to gather up followers. They were so successful that in four or five years the Mormon population was over 16,000. They had become so numerous that they were an important factor in the then Congressional district, which at this time embraced all the river counties from Jo Daviess to Adams, besides a number of others lying contiguous on the east. Before this in all political contests they had voted as a unit with the Democratic party. Their natural affiliations are all that way and always will be. If Utah is admitted as a state, as she surely will be by the Democratic party now in power in the year 1894, she will be a strong Democratic state so long as Mormanism dominates in that state. This old party is the party of "Rum, Rebellion and Romanism," and Mormanism may now be added. The Mormans had become disgusted with the treatment they had received at the hands of the Democrats of Missouri, and for a year or two they voted with the whigs, but under the adroit man- ipulation of Stephen A. Douglas, in procuring for 122 them all the legislation they wished for, in the charter of their city of Nauvo, giving the mayor almost unlimited power. Power to suspend the writ of habeas corpus, and many other unusual privileges, authorizing the raising of the Nauvo Legion, an independent military company to he under the control of the mayor. This mayor was the prophet, Joseph Smith. He was also under the charter to have command of the Legion, with the title of Lieutenant General. He was judge of the mayors' court and chief justice of the mun- icipal court. It is true that both political parties had much to do in granting these unusual privileges and powers to the Mormons, but the Democrats were the dominant party, and under the shrewd management of Stephen A. Douglas, they were kept true to his party, as the sequel proved. Jos- eph P. Hoge, of Galena, and Cyrus Walker, were opposing candidates for congress, both went to Nauvo and made speeches, both were promised the Mormon vote by Joe Smith. When election day came, Joe Smith voted for Walker, but the rest of the Mormon vote went as a unit for Joseph P. Hoge, the Democrat. This was in 1842, Hoge was elected by some 3,000 majority. The Mor- mon vote was over 3,000, and decided the elec- tion. Joe Smith said in a proclamation to his people, that Stephan A. Douglas was the ruling spirit in the legislature. Soon after Governor -Boggs sent a requisition on Governor Carlin, of 123 Illinois, demanding the arrest and delivery of Joe Smith, and other leaders of the Mormons for var- ious crimes committed in Missouri. Smith and others after being in hiding for sometime were arrested. In the meantime Stephen A. Douglas had been elected Judge in the third district. Joe Smith was brought before him on a writ of ha- beas corpus, was discharged from custody on some trifling technicality, and the Mormons were per- mitted to go on their career of lawlessness, under the privileges given in their charter they set all attempts at bringing them to justice at defiance. The state had furnished the.Nauvo legion with a number of cannons and two hundred and fifty pieces of small arms. They were accused of all sorts of crimes and misdemeanors, and about this time Joe Smith had a revelation on polygamy, and had sealed to himself a number of women, one or two the wives of men, who were not Mor- mons. An intense feeling of resentment was aroused against them on account of their arrogance in claiming that they were the chosen people of the Lord, and that they would soon have possession of the whole earth. Through the efforts of their missionaries, large accessions were made to their number yearly. Under the state of feeling in Han- cock and adjoining counties, a large force assem- bled at Carthage, determined to rid the country of the Mormons. Governor Ford was requested to 124 call out the military, but declined to do so until he should come down and personally investigate the matter. He came to Nauvo and spent some days there and at Carthage. The Mormons had in the meantime armed the legion and fortified the city, and things looked decidely warlike. The troops had their rendezvous on the Mississippi, a short distance below Nauvo. Governor Ford ad- dressed the troops assembled, advising modera- tion, and using only legal means. In the mean- time the Mormons finding resistance was useless against theoverwhelming force against them, had consented to the arrest of their leaders, Joe Smith and his brother, Hiram, and other leaders. They were taken and sent under a strong guard to Carthage, and lodged in jail, the governor prom- ised them protection, and that they should have a fair legal trial. This promise he no doubt in- tended to fulfil, but the people were so excited that a strong force of men was organized, who went to the jail, overpowered the guardsand shot Smith and his brother, Hiram. When they broke into the jail, Smith fired a number of shots from a six shooter furnished him by his friends, wound- ing three of his assailants, John Taylor was also severely wounded. Thus this arch impostor fell at last. The Mormons being without a leader, there arose a contest for the leadership. Sidney Rigdon claimed it with some show of right on his side. There is no doubt of his having written 125 the book of Morman, as a pastime, a kind of a romance imitating the style of language in which the old testament is written. Rigdon was not selected, and left. The elders of the church who were many of them absent as missionaries, when they returned chose Brigham Young as their head man. He afterwards in conductingthem to their new home at Salt Lake, proved himself to be pos- sessed of shrewd native sense, a born leader of men. These events occurred in 1844. For the next two years the Mormons continued to have accessions to their numbers, and the same bitter hostile feeling continued to exist between the Mor- mons and their enemies, murders and other out- rages were continually occurring. Bakinstoss the sheriff and bosom friend of Stephen A. Douglas being the main leader in all the Mormon out- rages against the Anti-Mormons. The Mormon vote was wanted in the presidential election of 1844 by the Democrats, and they received it. I have said nothing about the peculiar belief of the Mormons as that is pretty well known by every one who is familiar with their after career at Salt Lake. The prophet, Joseph Smith, among his numerous possessions and offices own- ed a small steam boat. He made a trip to Rock Island, while lying at the landing he got into a playful scuffle with one of the men employed on the boat. In the contest the man proved to be too strong for Smith and he was thrown overboard, 126 getting a good ducking, when ira merged he used some terrible cuss words, this I am told was noth- ing unusual for him to do. In 1846 the trouble between the Mormons and their enemies still continued, and forces on both sides were gathered together and faced each other in mortal combat. A number of cannons were used on each side, but the firing of cannons and small arms was done at long range and but few lives were lost. This long range battle lasted three or four days. A delegation from Quincy came up and effected a cessation of hostilities. The Anti Mormons compelling the Mormons to agree to leave the state, and they at once commenced to dispose of their property, but they were allowed only two or three days in which to do it. Men women and children were driven forth, the weak, the sick, the feeble, all had to go across the river into Iowa, where they erected temporary tents for shelter. It being a sickly season hundreds of them died. The people in Northern Illinois were very indignant at the cruelty practiced by the Anti Mormon mob under the leadership of a Campbellite preacher, by the name of Brockman, a man with an infamous character, who to the credit of theCampbellites was afterwards expelled from the church. The mob spirit was still rampant after the Mormons left, the attempt made was under the lead of the infamous Brockman to drive out persons who had settled in Nauvo dur- 12 ing the last year or two for purposes of trade. There is no doubt that very many of the outrages which were said to have been done by the Mor- mons were committed by a set of desperadoes who harbored around the lower rapids on both sides of the river. It was a locality that had a bad rep- utation for many years. Many merchants who had settled in Nauvo, who where not Mormons were compelled to pack up and leave. The steam- er Dubuque, Capt. Beebe in command, coming along during the culmination of the troubles, was loaded down with goods belonging to grocery merchants who were called Jack Mormons. These goods were brought to Galena and turned over bv the captain to the firm of McM aster & Hemp- stead. These closing scenes of Mormons in our state occurred in 1846. This was a year of great floods in all the Mississippi Valley. All the low grounds were completely submerged. The river in many places where there were wide bottoms resembling a great lake, doing immense damage, destroying all crops on the lowlands. The water at St. Louis was 44 feet above low water mark, coming up and overflowing the second stories of all the stores on the levee. The only landing the boats hadfor re- ceiving and discharging their cargoes was on the cross street half way up between First and Second streets. I visited St. Louis during this flood. Kaskaskia the former capital of the state was al- 128 most swept out of existance by this flood and a high wind which arose in the night. This scene is ve*y graphically described by Miss Catherwood in her old Kaskaskia, Somewhere along in the early forties Dr. Ely, of Philadelphia, a preacher belonging to the New Presbyterian church undertook to found a colony in Missouri on a wide beautiful prairie of bottom land, a short distance below Quincy. It was also his intention to found a college at Palmyra, a short distance in the country. This town was called Marion City. When this city was laid off the water was low, the bank of the river, which was the level of the prairie, being some six feet above low water. It was planted with broad streets and a number of public squares. A large number of colonies were induced to come from the Eastern states, who bought lots and erected many houses. The colonists were nearly all Anti Slavery. In a year or two the water came up and partially flooded a portion of the incipient city. In 1846 the water covered the whole town site to the deptn of 8 to 10 feet, and many of the buildings were swept away. The town was wholly abandoned and hardly a single house now marks the spot where this city of such large hopes and pretentions stood. Dr. Ely was very much blam- ed for deluding so many people, but he was also a loser, both in money and reputation. Among the many business men whom I knew 129 many years ago and with whom I had business or social relations I would name in Burlington, John H. Gear & Win. F. Coobbaugh, Schenck & Dennis, heavy pork packers, very honorable and strait business men and W. C. Postlewaite. Burlington was noted for its many enterprising business men, and the town at one time in the 50s gave promise of being the leading town in the state. John H. Gear was a successful mer- chant, in after years he entered political life and was elected a member of congress for a number of terms, also was elected governor of the state in which he has been called upon to act, he has dis- charged his duties faithfully and honestly, and to- day I learn that the Iowa legislature has just elected him senator. Iowa has again returned to her loyalty to the Republican party. W. F. Coobbaugh a bright genial Kentuckian went to Chicago many years ago becoming a leading banker there. Many years ago he had a very tragic end, in a fit of despondency brought on by some cause unknown to his friends he went down to the lower subburbs of the city and was found lying dead at the foot of the monument of Stephen A. Douglas. In the city of Muscatine, once called Bloomington, I knew Sewell Foster, an old timer, a horticulturist, a recognized authority in that de- partment. Green & Stone, an honorable firm of bankers, John Bennett a successful man and pork packer. The town of Buffalo was settled at an 130 early day. A Mr. Clark, the first settler there, who established a ferry which was long known as Clark's ferry, his son, Capt. Clark, still resides there at the old homestead. An old schoolmate of mine in New York a successful pilot and cap- tain in the trade between St. Louis and Galena, entered a farm of 400 acres, lying just above Buf- falo, which I think is the most beautiful of any on the shores of the great river, rising as it does with a gentle swelling slope from the river, back nearly a mile to the level prairie that stretches away to the north. His farm was in a high state of culti- vation at the time of his death, which occurred some fifteen years ago. He was driving a very spirited team attached to a mower, and the team started to run throwing him onto the mower and injuring him so severly that he died soon after. Another beautiful farm belonging to .an old friend and pupil of mine in 1831, lies just below Buffalo belonged to Capt. Hiram Bersie. He first was a pilot and then built a boat cal4ed the St. Croix in which he had a famous race with Capt. Smith Harris from St. Louis to Galena, both coming in so near each other at the end of the race, that Bersie had his plank run out only five minutes late. He afterwards built the Bon Accord and the Golden Era. James Carter was interested with him in both the boats. He was one of the most popular commanders on the river, very quiet and gentle in his manners, always maintaining 131 perfect dicipline on his boat. He was a partner of ours in the War Eagle mills, which we erected in 1849 in Galena, E. B. Washburn being the other partner. In 1856 he had a paralytic stroke whii-h unfitted him for his steam boat duties and he went to Europe for his health, taking the Carlsbad waters while there. On his return he was able to get about on crutches for two or three years, but he had one or two other strokes and became demented before the close of his life which occurred in 1859. Another beautiful farm lying some seven or eight miles below, belonged to Legrand Morehouse, another old time river cap- tain. These farms were all entered before 1840, by these river pilots and captains, who in passing up and down the river could take their pick. Capt. Morehouse lived for some few years in a cot- tage just west of Captain Dodge's house. He went to Springfield, Missouri, some ten years ago to live with his daughter, and died there two or three years ago. Early Settlement of Towns Along the River. The little hamlet of Andalusia with its high sounding name was laid off and named by Gen. N. B. Buford, sometime in the 40s. He induced our old genial friend, Dr. Bowman to settle there at an early day, and he resided there most of the time until his death, which occurred a few weeks 132 ago. John Buffam settled there at an early day, engaging in the mercantile business, dealing largely in country produce. He moved into the interior of Iowa a few years ago. The town of Lyons as I have before stated was laid off and owned by Dennis Warren sometime in the 40s. It was a good site for a town, lying high and dry above high water mark and backed by a fine farming country. It attracted a good deal of attention as a point where a large pros- perous city might be built up in the future, Den- nis did nothing however towards helping build up the towm. He sold his lots for the best price he could get, making no improvements himself except a small store on Front street which was occupied by a brother of his. It was here that he accumulated a large share of his property. A few enterprising men from New England a short time after Lyons had got well under way towards building up a thriving town, bought a farm about two miles below Lyons, where the present city of Clinton is situated. These men were far seeing broad minded men, and laid the foundation broad and deep for their future city. The streets and avenues were laid out from 80 to 150 feet wide, with a number of public squares, One large pub- lic square near the center of the town was sur- rounded with a number of spacious lots which were dedicated to public use for school houses and churches. There is no town or city lying on 133 the river that is so well and admirably laid out to meet the wants of the future. Soon after the advent of the first railroad that reached the Mississippi river, a railroad com- pany was quietly organized by these far seeing Clintonians to build a road out west of the young city. In a year or two 40 miles was completed and in operation, bringing to the town a largeac- cession of trade and traffic. Much of this had heretofore gone to Lyons. In a short time two immense saw mills were built by Young & Co., and by Lamb & Co. The output of these mills has been for many years the largest of any on the upper river, and many other manufactories were put in successful operation. The first settlers of Clinton were mostly from New England and New York. • The first settlers of Lyons were also most- ly of the same class and Lyons would probably have kept the lead in the race had it not been for the dead weight, the incubus they to carry, in the person of Dennis Warren, who would make no im- provements and opposed all that would involve increased taxation. Rock Island has labored for many years under the same incubus in the per- son of Bayley Davenport, who owned so many choice tracts of land in and about the city which he would not sell or improve. Since his death some of his vast estate in land has been disposed of and in consequence the old fogy town has im- proved more in the last two years than in any 134 ten years of its past history; but more of this here- after. Cordova in the upper part of Rock Island county was settled and occupied in an earl} 7 day, mostly by the numerous Marshall family someof them living in the village and two or three of the brothers occupying large new improved farms in the township. They came from Pennsylvania originally. The town of Albany was at one time some thirty or forty years ago quite a thriving vil- lage in Whiteside county. Among its prominent business men were Mcllvian and Happer. M. S, Tullerand a Mr. Barnes, whofor many years kept a good hotel there, but this old town like nearly all others on the east side of the river has all gone to decay and ruin. The next town above, Fulton in the same county, was very flourishing soon after the Northwestern railroad reached the Mississippi, a large grain elevator was put up to store the grain coming from Iowa. Col. John Dement, the father of our former state treasurer put up a large costly hotel, a very beautiful stone structure which in later years was occupied as a military training school, after it ceased paying as a hotel, when the town began to decay, after the Northwestern crossed with the bridge to Clinton. Lately it has taken a new lease of life since an- other railroad has entered its borders, crossing the river over a high bridge erected on the high point ot land just above town. Savanna thirtv miles below Galena "* *v -V Treatment Date: