SIMY DAYS ABROAD; OS, The Old Woeld Seen with Young Eyes. mf ^g^^^i,:,.^ AM^^^^'iA'yL^y' New- York : No. 2 Bible House. THB LIBRARY OF CONGRESS WASHINGTON- El tored according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, b; Thomas Whittakeb, In the ofiBce of the Librariau of Congress, at Washington. ST. JOHNLAND STEREOilPK rOtTS<"D«T, SnFFOI,K CO., N. t. TO THIS BECOED OP MUTUAL EXPEEIENCK IN FOEEIGN LANDS IS APFECTIONATELT INSCEIBED BY HBB MOTHEB. PREFACE. rPHE following pages were originally written that -*- friends at liome might share ia the pleasure enjoyed by a party visiting Europe. They were desigTied, also, to keep the incidents and impres- sions of that visit alive in the memory of one member of the party, whose young eyes for the first time looked upon the strange scenes, and the wonders of nature and art, which everywhere abound in the old world. They are simply a jotting down of ordinary events and sight-seeings, and if the " couleur de rose " seems to pervade everything, it is because nothing occurred to mar our pleasure, and it was difficult to prevent that hue from becoming the predomiaant one. b PEEFACE. To those wlio have been abroad, it is always pleasant to learn the experience of others, and thus recall their own enjoyment ; while for those who are anticipating a tour ia foreign lands, it is hoped this book may contain some useful sugges- tions. 0. C. J. DYER. CONTENTS. Page On the WiNa 7 Liverpool, , , . 15 London, 19 Paris, . 43 Genoa, 47 Florence, 53 Rome. . 63 Naples, 83 Pompeii, 87 Sorrento, 91 Milan, 93 Bellagio, 99 Venice, 103 Verona, 110 Munich, , 113 Zurich, 135 Lucerne, 138 Interlachen, 130 The Faulhorn, 136 Berne, 141 Geneva, 147 Chamouny. 153 Vevay 156 CONTENTS. Page Basle, 161 Strasburg, 164 Baden-Baden, ....... 166 Heidelberg, 169 Frankfort, 174 HOMBURG, . , 175 Cologne 176 Brussells, 180 Paris 184 Rouen, . , 195 Havre, , 197 Newport, Isle op Wight, ..... 198 London, 205 Leamington, 211 Stratford on iivoN, 215 Birmingham, 219 York, 226 Melrose, Scotland, 228 Edinburgh, . , 235 Stirling, 241 Glasgow, , . 244 Ayr, 251 Windermere, 253 Keswick, 256 Liverpool, . = 258 Llangollen, 259 Homeward Bound, 261 THE OLD WORLD SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. Steameb Russia, Bay of New York, ) April 22, 18— [ WE are almost "on the wing." So I com- mence at once to fulfil my promise of keeping a faithful record. The day is bright and warm, and the sea so smooth and calm that it seems to beckon us onward. Our steamer, too is all we can desire ; and among the ninety-five passengers there are many who will not fail to add to the enjoyment of the voyage. As I sit writing in the saloon, the genial face of Mr. Charles Dickens peeps in, and I am rejoiced to see amongst us that large-hearted man, whose writings have given so much pleasure, and been the solace of many a weary heart. The fsaloon is fragrant with the flowers which 8 THE OLD WOELD have been sent as loving farewells to many on board, and thus a delicious odor of the shore mingles with the fresh air of the sea. One of Mr. Dickens' baskets is very magnificent, being about three feet long, and filled with the most gorgeous flowers, exquisitely arranged. In the centre is the word "Farewell," composed of small white flowers, upon a scarlet ground, while beneath are the initials, "C. D." But the cluster of pure Easter lihes sent to us by our kmd friend, Mrs. A., are loveher and fairer than all, for with these " The altar's lawn, At morning's dawn, We deck at Easter-tide — To teU of Him Who liveth, though He died !" Thursday, April 23. A pleasant morning and a fair wind. Had a good opportunity to arrange our state-rooms, which are funny little places enough, with then- small round port-holes for windows, their narroAV shelves for beds, and a rack fastened firmly above the washing slab, containing bottles and tumblers ; this firm fastening suggesting the uncomfort- able idea of rolling seas, and dismal weather. SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 9 The ship is most admirably arranged and appointed, in every respect — the service prompt and efficient — the table bountifully supplied, and everything seems done to secure the safety and conifort of the passengers. At twelve o'clock we had made two hundred and sixty-four miles, having left at half-past three yesterday. The day has been charming in every respect, and most of the passengers were on deck. In the evening we assembled in the saloon, where there was some reading, some talking, some playing of whist, and much drinking of brandy. Friday, April 24. "Alack, for me When I was at sea !" Said Southey. A remark which I fully appre- ciated this morning, when the sky was overcast, and the sea so rough that nearly all the passen- gers kept their state-rooms, and I could hardly lift my head. But the afternoon again found me on deck, enjoying the fresh breeze, and walking up and down the whole length of the ship, which was now plunging from side to side, in a some- what frantic manner. How glorious it all was, and how I wondered that any one could help enjoying it ! 10 THE OLD WORLD I never tired of watching the great green waves, with their snowy tops, rolling so far away, anrl seeming to break against the sky. I find our state-room, which looked so small at first has grown pretty large, now that everything is nicely stowed away. It really seems to have "expanded into something quite bulky, and almost boasts a bay-window to view the sea from," as our friend Mr. Boz wrote some years ago. So easy is it to adapt oneseK to circum- stances. Sunday, April 26. This bright, pleasant morning found us crossing the Banks, and the sea was so calm that nearly all the passengers were able to assemble in the cabin for Divine service. Prayers were read by the surgeon of the ship, and all present joined in the service, attentively, if not devoutly. It did not seem a mere form, but a proper recognition of our dependence upon God. Many of the sailors were present, looking very nicely in their blue uniforms, and hstening with attentive interest. No singing was attempted, it being a hazardous experiment at such a time. In the afternoon the wind commenced rising, and increased till midnight, by which time it SEEN WITH YOtJNG EYES. 11 blew a perfect gale. The sea became very rough, and the ship rolled and pitched at a fearful rate. I can enjoy almost anything, I think, but found nothing specially pleasant during this uproarious night. Fortunately, the wind was favorable, and we made good progress. April 27. Had a pleasant conversation to-day with Mr. Dickens, who has been suffering much from his lame foot. He says, playfully, that he has " read himself off his legs," but speaks warmly of his " dehghtful " visit to our own beloved land, and of the great changes and improvements since his former visit. When I congratulated him that he had not encountered one of oiu: teiuible railroad accidents, he replied, "I don't pretend to deny that I had some fears, for ever since the accident in England where I had so narrow an escape, I have been extremely nervous." It is that terribly destructive accident on the South-eastern railway to which he alludes in "Our Mutual Friend," closing with this paragraph : " I remember with devout thankfulness that I can never be nearer parting company with my readers forever than I was then, until there shall bo written against my life the two words with 12 THE OLD WORLD whicli I have this day closed this book — The End." Mr. Dickens told us that Gadshill, twenty miles from London, where he now resides, was associated with his boyhood, and for that reason he was strongly attached to the spot. That he has won the hearts of the people about him, is evident from the account Hans Christian Anderson gives of his charming visit there, and the affectionate regard with which his neighbors of the poorer class spoke of him. I was much struck with Mr. Dickens' devout manner during the religious services yesterday, and the earnestness of his responses in the beautiful Hturgy of the Church of England. Surely, one who has made so many hearts better and brighter, must indeed feel the vene- ration for the life and lessons of our Saviour» which he does not hesitate to avow. Friday, May 1. A beautiful morning, and all on deck watching for the light-houses and cliffs on the Ii-ish coast. Every one seemed very happy in the thought that the voyage was so nearly over, and that beautiful England was close at hand. My own feelings were, as Ai-tcmus Ward used SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 13 to say, " very much mixed." Tiie whole voyage had been so thoroughly enjoyable that I had several tunes exclaimed, "how can any one say that it is disagreeable to be at sea ? I think it perfectly splendid, as school-girls say." My few hours of suffering were as nothing compared to my constant pleasure in watching the movements of the ship, the agility of the sailors, and the ocean itself, so wonderful and grand. Then, too, our pleasant fellow-travellers ; with whom I had read, and talked, and walked, and with whom I would gladly have been compelled to remain much longer. Eight days and a few hours, seemed quite too short a passage from New York to Liverpool, and "I Regained my freedom with a sigh ;" being an exception, I fancy, to most voyagers. Eight o'clock, and a bright moonht evening, found us at anchor in the Mersey, two miles below our destination ; and what a scene of confusion presented itself ! Waiters bringing up bags and baskets — ^ladies arranging cloaks and shawls— gentlemen pointing out their trunks to the Custom-house officers, who had come on 14 THE OLD WOELD board — said officers asking questions, and looking wise, but passing the baggage very rapidly. As fast as an article was passed, and received tlio label, it was marked for the hotel to which the owner was going. This Babel continued for two mortal hours, but at last we were all on board the passenger tender, and as we steamed away, three rousing cheers were given for the grand old ship, three for the captain, and three for tho officers. When we drove up to the hotel, and the la,nd- lady came out with the bright ribbons on her cap, and a face beaming with smiles, a cajoital specimen of an EngHsh landlad}^, my heart per- fectly bounded with dehght. When I gave her my Easter hlies, stiU fresh and beautiful, telling her I had brought her some flowers from America, her face was brighter still. Then tho blazing coal fire — the throwing aside of ship clothing — the dehghtful feeling that the floor beneath you was secure, and would not suddenly become either the ceiling or the side of tho room — ^how pleasant it all was ; and I am afraid I almost forgot to be sorry that I had left tho beloved ship ! SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 15 Liverpool, May 4. The morning after our arrival here found us so fresh and well, that we felt equal to almost anything ; so after our letters to the bankers were dehvered, we went to the Museum, a fine large structure, with a collection of natm-al history, statuary, paintings, and an excellent library. The Museum is entirely free — the princely gift of Sir WilHam Brown. We visited the reading-room about twelve o'clock, and found a hundred or more persons seated and reading. What a glorious thing it is to have money, and a disposition with it, to bestow it so nobly ! In the afternoon we had a lovely drive of eighteen miles about the suburbs of Liverpool. The trees are in full leaf, fruit trees in blossom, hedges very luxuriant, and the country looked like a garden. We passed some exqiiisite resi- dences and grounds ; among them, ChUdweU Abbey, an old country place of the Marquis of Salisbury — a quaint pile of buildings, with some grand old trees on the lawn, in front. The whole drive was enchanting, and we shall not soon forget this first glimpse of " Merrie Eng- land." On our return, there was a muster of the 16 THE OLD WOULD Livei-pool volunteers — many tJiousands of them — and as they marched past our hotel, we had a very good opportunity of admiring their scarlet uniforms, which looked very brilliant in the Hght of the setting sun. After they had passed, a performance of Punch and Judy took place under our window, which amused us very much. It is really astonishing how much they can make those puj^pets do, and how like human beings in miniature they look and act, as they go through their various parts — sometimes fighting, and sometimes having the joUiest time imaginable. A little dog was one of the performers for us, and he looked very oddly, with a broad muslin ruff around his neck, and acted his part with a comic gravity which was perfectly irresistible. On Sunday we went to St. Bride's Church, with some kind friends. I felt that we were in a foreign land, when I saw the sexton sailing up and down the aisles in a long black gown, something like a clergyman's, only made of some worsted material. There are also some pecuharities in the service. Both creeds are repeated, although at different times. The clergyman gives out the number of the hjnnn, and the organist immediately commences playing SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 17 the tune wliicli is to be sung, very simply, during the time the congregation are finding their places. Then the clergyman -again gives the number, reads the first two hnes, and the singing begins at once. There is also a short prayer — ^not a silent one, after the clergyman goes into the pulpit, and just before he gives out his teet. Sunday afternoon we visited the Blue-Coat Hospital, vrhich interested us very much. We were shown all over it, and admired the exquisite neatness evident everywhere we went. I do not think, however, that the arrangements were very much superior to many of our own charitable institutions, except the bathing faciUties, which were admirable. They have a large tank in which the children can be taught to swim, and the water can be let on to the depth of four or five feet, and dra^Ti off at pleasure. The in- stitution accommodates and supports two hun- dred and fifty boys and one hundi-ed girls, all of whom are dressed in the costume of the esta- "bHshment, and look oddly enough. The boys leave at fourteen years of age, and the girls at sixteen. The former wear an entire suit of very dark blue cloth, with a long tailed 2 18 THE OLD WOKIJD coat rounded in front like a quaker's. On their necks they wear a white cravat, without any collar, and clergymen's bands. It makes them look like a collection of Lilliputian clergymen ; and the garb itself has a tendency to give a serious expression to their faces, which one does not often see in young boys. The girls wear dark blue gowns which reach their ankles, and round white capes made of thick muslin. They all marched into the chapel, to the solemn music of the organ, and took their places very sys- tematically. The exercises were conducted by the children themselves, and consisted of singing, prayers, catechism, and recitation of portions of Scripture. The prayers were read — the hymns given out, and the questions of the catechism asked by boys selected for the purpose ; and it was really astonishing to hear their long answers without a single mistake. A great many noble men and women have been educated at this institution, who, but for its sheltering care, would have had no one to teach them the right way. In the evening we went to St. Mary's Church for the Blind, where they had a full choral service ; the blind being the singers. They sang SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 19 beautifully, and it was very touching to hear their sweet voices, so full of thanksgiving, and remember that those sightless eyes had never seen the exquisite works of their Heavenly Father's hand. We feel that we have made much of Liverpool, which is not generally considered very interesting. London. Our journey here by way of the North-western railway was thoroughly pleasant, and the country beautiful in the extreme. The fruit trees were one mass of blossoms, and white cowshps, violets and other flowers covered the meadows. Every foot of ground seemed cultivated, while the hawthorn hedges which everywhere line the road, and separate the fields, and the multipUcity of trees, add greatly to the beauty of the scenery. We passed through many districts abounding in manufacturing estabhshments, with their tall chimneys emitting volumes of smoke. "WTiile at Rugby, we thought of the noble Doctor Arnold, who has made that place so famous, and of Tom Brown, who has so gracefully recorded his school-days there. We are now in pleasant quarters in the west end of London, and are living as comfortably and quietly as if we were 20 ■ THE OLD WOELD in our own house. Our waiter looks so minis- terial in Ids white cravat, and serves us with an air of such thorough " respectability," that if it were necessary to address a note to him, I should be quite tempted to commence it in the pre- scribed clerical way, "Reverend Sir." The annual " May meetings " in Exeter Hall are an institution of London, and we were much interested, the day after our arrival, in attending the anniversary of the British and Foreign Bible Society, to which two American clergymen were delegates. Lord Shaftsbury was in the chau\ The Bishops of London and Carhsle spoke very earnestly, and we were glad to hear oiu* dear friend. Dr. F. loudly applauded when he said emphatically, "There is power enough in Pro- testant truth any time, and anywhere, to conquer Romanism. I am sure I cannot mistake the sentiment of every true Britain, as I know I do not mistake the sentiment of every true American, when I say, an open field, a fair fight, and God heliJ the right!" Lord Shaftsbury 's earnest words about America, and the strong desire that there should never be anything but peace between his land and ours, seemed to express the wish of the entire audience. SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 21 We have had a pleasant evening with Mrs. Eanyardj who has been so useful among the poor in London, and whose books " The Missing Link," and "The Book and its Story," have given so much information and pleasui-e. From a httle work which she gave us, called " London, and Ten Tears Work in it," we learn how won- derful has been the success of the Bible women in teaching the poor and degraded the best and most useful kind of knowledge, the way to help themselves. As we passed through a part of the famous St. Giles, on our way to Mrs. E.'s, we saw, even yet, an amount of squaHd poverty which was sickening. The contrast between it and the splendor and display at the Queen's drawing- room the next day, was very striking. There were superb equipages, gay liveries, footmen and coachmen, generally four on a carriage, with bouquets large enough for breast- plates ; beautiful women sparkHng with diamonds, and everything else that wealth and rank can give. The Prince of Wales was attended by a troop of horsemen, the band playing " God save the King," and his coachmen and footmen fairly gleamed with gold lace. He bowed very plea- 22 THE OLD WOELD santly to tlie crowd, and looks like an amiable young man, wliatever he may be in reality. In the midst of all this elegance, we were much surprised at the freedom of a well-dressed man, who walked past the carriages of my Lord This, and my Lady That, exclaiming at the top of his voice, "All this comes out of our pockets. O, yes, we pay for all this." Although he uttered this many times, no notice was taken of it by the host of policemen who were standing about, to keep order, and he was allowed to pass un- molested. The people are quite delighted that the Queen is again appearing in public, and crowds were assembled to see her on her way to lay the foundation stone of a new hospital, the day following the di'awing-room reception. She was in an open barouche, with the Princess Cln-istian by her side, and the pretty httle Princess Beatrice, with her long golden hair floating in crimj)s oyer her shoiilders, seated in front of her. Prince Leopold made a very handsome Scotch laddie in his Tartan dress. The Queen, in her simple black bonnet, bowed constantly to the right and left, but the expression of her face was decidedly sad, and there was no smile. SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 23 After the royal procession had passed, we went to Mortlake, a few miles from London, where we had been invited to lunch with a charming family, whose names are associated with the best and noblest of the land. Near their pleasant place are the grounds formerly belonging to Sir "WUHam Temple, where Dean Swift passed so much of his early life. After luncheon an excursion was made to Hampton Court, by way of Bushy Park. We walked a mile through an avenue of horse-chestnut trees, which were ono mass of white blossoms, and the effect was very beautiful. The grounds at Hampton Court are kept in such exquisite order, and the Palace itself so curious and quaint in its architecture, that it could not fan to interest us extremely. The building occupies eight acres of groimd, and in order to see it, and its beautiful lawns and gardens, one must walk several miles. The situation is very lovely, being upon the banks of the Thames, and so elevated that the view of the Surrey HiUs, and the surrounding country, is very fine. The river itself, " At every winding, as the waters run, Presents a mirror to the shining sun." 24 THE OLD WORLD It is not surprising tliat Henry the Eighth should have asked the ambitious Cardinal Wolsey, who designed the magnificent structure for h i mself, wliat were his " intentions in buUd- ing a palace that far surpassed any of the royal palaces of England ?" There was more tact than truth in his reply, that he was only trying to form a residence worthy of so great a monarch. Whether this great monarch (great in talent, and great in wickedness) desired the gift, or not, it became his, and was afterwards associated with royalty, for many years, and in many ways. The good " boy-king," Edward the Sixth, was born at Hampton Court, and in sixteen hundred and twenty-five, Charles the First and Queen Henrietta retreated there to avoid the plague then raging in London, Less than twenty years after, their majesties again fled there for refuge from a calamity still more fatal — a calamity which ended in bringing King Charles to the scaffold. The splendid Gothic Hall designed by Wolsey, and finished by Henry the Eighth, is very mag- nificent. It is more than a hundred feet long, and sixty high, the roof being most elaborately carved and decorated with the arms and badges SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 25 of Henry the Eighth. It was used as a theatre dui-ing the reign of Ehzabeth, and tradition says that some of the plays of Shakspeare were fii'st acted here. We went through long suites of rooms, once the scenes of magnificent banquets and grand Christmas festivals, where we saw hundreds of historical pictures, and portraits of various kings, queens, and persons of highest rank. The sweet face of Mxs. Delaney, the pet of good Queen Charlotte, and the beloved of all who knew her, interested us very much. There is no end to the portraits of George the Third and his numerous offspring, and one wonders that they had patience to sit so frequently for their ef&gies. It must have furnished our countryman, Benjamin West, the favorite painter of his majesty, an abundance of employment. Hampton Court has not for a long time been occupied as a royal residence, and there are several suites of apartments in which private families are allowed to reside, by special per- mission. Through the kindness of the present Queen, it was first thrown open to the public, and the humblest as well as the proudest of her subjects, can now enjoy its various treasures. 26 THE OLD WOKLD We have been several times to Westminster Abbey, and it is impossible to describe the almost overpowering emotions with which one sees this pile, so vast and grand, and so full of historical associations. It becomes more and more won- derful on each succeeding visit. We entered at the " Poets' Corner," where are simple monuments to "rare Ben Johnson," Spenser, Milton, Gray, Dryden, Chaucer, Goldsmith, Addison, Sheridan &c. As I found myself by a simple slab in the pavement, with the words, "David Garrick," carved upon it, I involuntarily looked up to a httle gallery where, some years ago, a group of weep- ing friends stood (Hannah More among them,) to watch the last sad rites to the most wonderful actor of that or any other age. The whole scene seemed so vivid as I stood there, but all who witnessed it have long since passed away. It was with feelings of both awe and reverence that we went from one monument to another, and read names, and saw deeds recorded with many of which we had been long familiar. The guide who conducts parties through the chapels (of which there are nine) becomes very tiresome with his sing-song manner, and parrot- like way of giving information. One longs to SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 27 get rid of him, and linger for hours, instead of being hurried on in such a summary manner. In Henry the Seventh's chapel, which has an exquisite carved stone ceiling, and is very beautiful architecturally, the monument of Mary Queen of Scots is seen ; a recumbent statue with a face very lovely, although of stone. Her cousin Ehzabeth, in the royal robes and immense ruff in which she delighted, is in another aisle of the same chapel. The tomb of Henry the Seventh himself, said by Lord Bacon to be " one of the stateliest and daintiest in Europe," is in the centre of the chapel. There are effigies in solid brass of Henry and Elizabeth his queen, lying side by side, on a block of black marble. The tomb is placed on a pedestal of black marble, five feet high, and beautifully adorned with brass orna- ments. The remains of Edward the Sixth are deposited at the head of this tomb. In St. Edward's chapel, the uncomfortable looking coronation chair is kept, which has been used from the days of Edward Second to Queen Victoria. Underneath it is the rough sandstone on which aU the old kings of Scotland were crowned. The chair is covered with crimson velvet on coronation days, and it is hoped, 28 THE OLD WORLD slightly cushioned, or the old adage would become true, " Uneasy rests the head that wears a crown." As we wandered about among the many grand and costly monuments, and came at last to the simple jflagstones with the letters W. P., and C. J. F. carved upon them, we thought of the enthusiasm of the eccentric John Randolph, who exclaimed on seeing them, "Here lie, side by side, the remains of the two great rivals, WUliam Pitt, and Charles James Fox, whose memory so completely lives in history. No marble monu- ments are necessary to mark the spot where their bodies I'epose. There is more simple grandeiu* in those few letters than in all the surrounding monuments, sir!" We were very fortunate in having tickets to an evening service in "Westminster Abbey, which was brilliantly lighted for the occasion — an unusual circumstance. The Archbishop of York preached in behalf of the Chru'ch Missionary Society, and the service was choral, closing with the Hallelujah Chorus of Handel, which was performed magnificently, and sounded grander than ever in that grand old pile, which is also the last resting-place of the glorious musician himself. SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 29 We went one day to Westminster Hall, once a banqueting hall, and the scene of mii'th and revelry for centuries. It is a Gothic apartment, and the largest room in the world unsupported by pillars. The roof is of wood with flying arches, and curious carving. Charles the First was tried and condemned in this hall. Warren Hastings was also tried, and fortunately ac- quitted here, and at a still later day, it was the scene of George the Fourth's coronation banquet. We were shown through the House of Commons and House of Lords by a very well-dressed, gentlemanly looking man, to whom we hesitated about offering a shiUing, but he took it with wonderful ease, and did not seem in the least embarrassed. In fact, it is quite surprising to meet with so many people who are ready to receive a fee, from a penny upward. One need not shrink from offering it under any circum- stances. In the House of Lords, the Lord Chancellor was holding court, surrounded by lawyers in their large curly wigs, which nearly extinguished them. Everything was done in the most quiet, orderly manner possible. Sir Roundell Palmer, the former attorney-general, made an argument. 30 THE OLD WORLD which was listened to very eagerly by the black- gowned, big wigs, present, as well as by those of us who were only allowed a peep at the digni- taries from a quiet corner. The new Houses of Parhament are very magnificent and beautiful, the style being richly decorated Gothic. They are divided into nume- rous apartments, courts, passages and halls. Some of the latter are immense, and adorned with statuary, and busts of eminent statesmen. The House of Lords is perfectly gorgeous in gilt mouldings, stained glass windows, paintings, velvet, and everything else essential to comfort and grandeur. The letters V. R. occur so fre- quently that a gifted countrywoman of ours once suggested that it must mean " very ridiculous." The House of Commons is more simple, but very elegant, notwithstanding, and one could not but feel that so much show and display were quite unnecessary to grave legislation. No one can come to London Avithout paying a visit to Madame Toussaud's wax-works, and we were extremely amused with this "calm and classical " collection, so full of the " unchanging air of coldness and gentility," which Mrs. Jarley 80 much admired. It becomes very confusing at SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 31 last, particularly wlien one turns about to make an humble apology for stumbling against a lady in the crowd, and discovers that the lady is '•looking intensely nowhere, and staring with extraordinary earnestness at nothing," and is really only a " figger." A gentleman of our party who is full of humor, but generally looks very grave and wise, seated himseK in the centre of a long lounge, to rest, while we went to see Napoleon's travelling carriage, his son's crib, and some other relics ; to say nothing of the dreadful guillotine. WhOe sitting there, a young girl came up to our dignified friend, and surveyed him from top to toe, evidently admiring the grave old gentle- man very much, and wondering why he was not labelled like the rest ; when he suddenly gave her a look brimming over with fun, and she scampered off half frightened out of her wits. We were very much amused with an amiable- looking old gentleman, with spectacles on his nose, who was watching a group of royal per- sonages, and occupied the best seat in front of them, in order to do so. He tiu'ned his head from side to side, occasionally, as if he were quite bent upon seeing everything, and we were g2 the old world begmning to tliink it was time he liad resigned liis place to some one else, when a closer in- spection showed us that his powers of locomo- tion were of a very limited kind. The feeling after one fii'st discovers that the individual near you, instead of being fiesh and blood, is only a sham, is very peculiar. St. Paul's Cathedral, situated as it is, in the very heart of London, and in its most crowded neighborhood, is blackened with coal smoke, and looks like anything but white marble, of which it is built. It is a massive pile, and when one is undex-neath the dome, its real grandeur imj)resses itself very forcibly. The choir, with its rich oak carvings of festoons of flowers, scrolls, fiaiits and figures, is very beautiful. Christopher "Wren, the famous architect, laid the corner stone himself in sixteen hundred and seventy-five, and lived to see his son deposit the highest stone upon the cupola, thirty-five years after. His remains are beneath a plain slab in the crypt, but a Latin inscription in the choir above, says, " Beneath, hes Sir Christopher Wren, the builder of this church, who hved upwards of ninety years, not for himself, but for the pubKc good. Reader, seekest thou his monument ? Look around !" SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 33 It is an interesting fact that the first statue erected in St Paul's, was that of the great lexi- cographer, Dr. Johnson. There are a great many monuments to the memory of distinguished men — among them, John Howard the philanthro- pist, who is represented trampling on fetters and chains, with a key in one hand, and a scroll in the other, inscribed, " Plea for the Improve- ment of Prisons." One cannot but look with reverence on even the sculptured form of a man so truly benevolent and good. England's two greatest heroes are lying in the crypt of the cathedral. Lord Nelson is placed immediately under the centre of the dome, m a black marble sarcophagus, having on it a coronet and cushion. It has a granite foimdation, and only the simple inscription, "Horatio, Viscount Nelson." In a chamber near by, is the superb tomb of the Duke of Wellington, made from one block of porphyry, highly polished, which weighed originally more than seventy tons. It h&s a foundation of red granite, about four feet higli, and at each corner is sculptured the head of a sleeping lion, also in granite. At the four comers of the vault are gas jets, rising through red granite shafta The immense funeral car, di'avvu, 8 34 THE OLD WOELD at that time, by twelve horses, and wrought from cannon captured in different battles under the "Iron Duke," is in another chamber. It is covered with black velvet, fringed with silver, and six wooden horses, looking as much like life as a painted horse can, and wearing the sombre trappings used at the funeral, are at- tached to the car. Certainly, England has not been wanting in any honor that could be conferred upon the conqueror of Napoleon, both in life and death. Our visit to Sydenham Palace, which occurred on a lovely day, was made very interesting through the kindness of the family of the dis- tinguished naturalist, Mr. "Waterhouse Hawkins, who has placed so many of the remarkable restored animals about the beautiful grounds. There are thu'ty, or more, of these creatures, once inhabitants of England and Ireland, but now extinct. Some of them are enormous, a,nd one can but rejoice that they belong to the " things that were." The Palace is a marvellous structure, and contains a httle of everything. One can walk for hours through its £oors and galleries, examiuiiig SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 35 tlie wonderful collections of treasures brought from all parts of the world. There are copies of many of the most celebrated works of art courts arranged to represent different nations, and adorned with statuary — such as the Egyptian court—the Grecian — the Eoman — the Pompeian, &c. Then there are models of ships, bridges, and machinery, and specimens of the animal and mineral productions of all.countries. In the tropical gardens, there are exquisite flowers and shrubs, and even trees, growing. Indeed, flowers and fountains meet you every- where, and the whole light airy structure seems like fairy-land. The situation is commanding, and the grounds beautifully arranged with a profusion of statues, grottoes and fountains. We were present at a grand concert given by the Handel Society, underneath the great central dome of the building, and the music sounded magnificently there. The next evening we heard music of quite another character at the Baptist Tabernacle church in Southwark, which, although less artistic, was none the less impressive. There the whole congregation seemed to sing as one 36 :he old world voice, the pastor setting them the example by singing with all his might and main himself. It was really grand. Mr. Spurgeon's church is in the midst of a densely populated portioii oi the city. The interior of the building is oval in shape, and there are double galleries ruhniiig around the whole chiu'ch. It is well lighted and ventilated. The congregation was immense, filling every part of the enormous structure. As each person entered, a small envelope was given him, or her, with a request printed upon it that contributions be placed in it, and deposited in boxes at the doors, for the benefit of the college which is preparing young men for the ministry. In this way, two hundred dollars, sometimes more, are collected every Sunday, mostly in pennies. The church seats about five thousand, and besides those who were seated, hundreds stood during the entire service. Through the i)ohteness of one of the officials, we were very kindly placed in excellent seats in the first gallery, very near to, and almost on a level with the pulj^it. Precisely at haK-past six, Mr. Spurgeon entered, and took his seat on a email platform, projecting from the second SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 37 gallery. He is short, rather stout, and youug in. his appearance. There is nothiug to indicate the wonderful power he has as a preacher. The services commenced with a short prayer, which was somewhat characteristic. He asked that our thoughts might not be " gadding about " during the service, and implored blessings on " Mary and Sai-ah, and Willie and Thomas, and the little baby whose voice we had just heard." After the prayer, a hymn was given out, verse by verse — then followed the reading and ex- pounduig of a portion of Scripture — then a long prayer, and singing again. The sermon was upon the verses of Balaam's prophecy, in which the Saviour is set forth under the figure of a stai'. He made seven heads. First, the star represented domiaion. Second, shining. Third, guidance. Fourth, constancy. Fifth, influence. Sixth, wonder. Seventh, glory. It was a plain, earnest, practical presentation of the offices of Christ, which a child could have under- stood. The vast audience listened with breath- less attention, throughout, and we all felt interested and edified. It could not have been called a scholarly or finished sermon, but Christ was faithfully and fully preached. 38 THE OLD WORLD With a good delivery, fresli and practical thoughts, and with homely, yet pertinent illus- trations, he is enabled to keep the attention of his hearers to the end. His exhortations and applications are interspersed throughout the whole discourse, and not left to the close. The con- cluding service was a hymn, and a short prayer, with benediction. The whole service was some- thing to be seen and remembered, as among the most remarkable things of this wonderful me- tropohs, and we cannot soon forget it. We spent a pleasant day at Hampstead, where our lovely friend Mrs. N. resides, in B Lodge, a charming spot, with a pretty garden and lawn. I made my dtbut upon a donkey, while there, as there were scores of these creatures upon the heath, " All saddled and bridled and ready for fight," which their various owners urged upon us in the most hospitable manner. Having long been desirous of trying one of these shaggy, long, eared beasts, I selected a particularly amiable- looking animal, and mounted — but alas ! " Zknowed a donkey, wot wouldn't go," at least, not in the right direction, for although SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 39 the owner punched him with a stick, and screamed in his great ears loud enough to deafen him, he persisted in trying both sides of the road at once, and made such desperate aim for the ditches, that lite many another debutante, I was seized with " stage fright," and retreated in the most ignominious manner. The views from the highest point of Hampstead Heath quite repaid us for our long walk, and I did not regret part- ing with my gay deceiver. As we were returning through the lanes, and quaint old streets, we passed a plain brick house, covered with ivy, standing on the brow of a hill, overlookiag the town. There was a look of elegance and refine- ment about it which we felt ought to belong to the residence of the author of the " Schonberg Cotta Family," whose home it is. Our next expedition was to the Zoological Gardens of Regents Park, which are wonderfully perfect in their arrangements. The animals are not cramped up in miserable little cages, where they keep walking up and down, looking very fierce and forlorn. On the contrary, many of them have a beautiful little cottage to live in, Burrounded by a high, open fence ; and then 40 THE OLD WORLD they have pools of clear, pure water, in which they bathe, and they really seem so comfort- able and happy, that it is a pleasure to look at them. The gardens are so beautifully laid out, that we were not surprised to see many happy famihes there, consisting of fathers and mothers, children and nurses, who evidently had come for the entire day, with capacious lunch-baskets. It is pleasant to see so many of the lovely parks and gardens here, free to all, and very delightful to see how numerous are those gi'een spots in this great city. It is " the season " in London just now ; Parliament being in session, and all the fashion- able world congregating here, so that everything is in its best and most attractive dress. We never tire of the beautiful parks, which in the afternoon are thronged with elegant equipages, ladies on horseback gaUojDing up and down Rotton Row, and pedestrians enjoying the gay scene. The pretty children on ponies scarcely larger than a Newfovmdland dog, led by a gi'oom, and with a nui'se walking at their side, we always watched with peculiar pleasure. One day, how- SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 4:1 ever, oiir delight in these scenes received a shock fi"om which it was difficult to recover, when we saw the horse of a young gentleman become perfectly unmanageable and rush madly along the bridle path, while its rider made the most desperate efforts to keep the saddle. "When we saw him at last dashed to the ground, and his poor lifeless body extended on the grass shortly afterwards, we felt that a ride in Rotton Row was dearly paid for in this case. Kensington Gardens, at the western extremity of Hyde Park, are nearly a mile square, and are very beautiful. There are glorious old trees in the grounds, and in some places it was like being in a vast forest, far away from the " busy haunts of men." We seated ourselves on some iron chairs, near a pretty lake, in front of Kensing- ton Palace, to enjoy the scene and partake of a little lunch, when a very young gentleman with a police decoration on his cap, came to demand a fee for the chairs, which in the innocence of GUI' hearts, we thought some benevolent person had placed there " pro bono pubhco." While wo wilHngly paid the demand, we were again struck with the many ways of obtaining money. A boy wiU chase a cab for a mile, to open the door for 42 THE OLD WORLD you, aud feel liberally rewarded for his polite attention if you give liim a penny. Probably these little jobs are all he has to depend upon. Kensington Palace is a very unpretending brick building, but interesting from having been the abode of royalty for two centuries. More than thu'ty years ago, a young girl of eighteen, who then resided there with her mother, was awakened in the night and told that the Archbishop of Canterbury desired an in- terview ; her uncle William the Fourth having just died. She hastily attired herself and met the venerable prelate. He informed her of her accession to the throne, and in deep agitation, her first words were, " I ask your prayers in my behalf." They knelt down together, and thus the young sovereign inaugurated her reign. How well she has fulfilled the trust reposed in her, up to the present hour, we all know, for certainly no Queen has better deserved the devotion of her loving subjects, than the excellent Queen Victoria. We are about to leave England for a season, and we do so with much regret, for " O, England ! full of years, yet passing fair, I drink thy beauty with a child's delight." SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 43 Paris, May 19. The dreaded Channel has been passed, and like many another "uncertain evil," it has proved only imaginary. We were two hours crossing from Dover to Calais, and scarcely a ripple could be seen on the surface of the water. The trip was reaUy most charming, and we all felt that the Channel had been undeservedly abused. We could not but wonder, however, what travellers were expected to do, in case of the storms which are so frequent on that sea, when the accommo- dations of the steamer were so very limited. How such boats on such a thoroughfare can be tolerated, is certainly most remarkable. At Calais our luggage was seized upon by men in blue blouses, who rushed up two pairs of high steps, which were covered with a green sHpj)ery shme ; for the tide was low, and the dock, which ought to have been underneath the water, was now standing out in bold reUef. On reaching the top, we were ushered into a bedlam, known generally as a custom-house, where we fuily reahzed the sage remark of Thomas Hood, that "even the children in France speak French." The custom-house officers were very polite, and beheved us when we answered "rien" without 44 THE OLD WORLD investigating very closely. So we were soon ou our way again, and were rather glad to know that the country about Calais was marghj' and bleak, for we were almost immediately enveloped in such a cloud of dust, that it was impossible to see anything. Such dust I think I never encountered before, and we were not sorry when at the end of six hours we found ourselves in bright, cheerful Paris, at the most comfortable Hotel de L'Ath'n'e. Our stay will not be long just now, but we have indulged in a bit of gayety in the shape of a visit to the Cii'que de I'impera- trice, where we saw wonderful riding, beautiful horses, and a building of vast dimensions, most tastefully arranged. The French clowns, even when they do not say anything, are so exqui- sitely funny in their actions, that one cannot help being amused, and we laughed very heartily at their various antics. The Hotel deslnvalides interested us extremely, and we were glad to see the hundreds of old and infirm soldiers there so kindly cared for. A few are still left who fought under the first Napo- leon, and who remember him with ajffection- ate reverence. We were shown the kitchen. SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 45 dining-hall, and library, and were allowed to enter the old church, which in Napoleon's day was adorned with nearly three thousand flao-s. Underneath the Dome des Invalides is the su- perb tomb of Napoleon, in a circular excavation many feet deep. The floor is composed of laurels formed in mosaic, from the centre of which rises the reddish brown granite sarcopha- gus, which is surrounded by twelve colossal fig- ures, emblematic of victory. At the entrance of the vault are the words from Napoleon's will, in which be asks tiiat his ashes may repose upon the borders of the Seine, in the midst of the French people whom he has so much loved. We could not but be glad that his last wish was gratified. The famous Bois de Boulogne has been en- chanting m this bright weather, and we enjoyed its miles of lovely drives exceedingly. We found it thronged with carriages of every description, and all the elegance of Paris seemed to be in them. The beautiful cascades and lakes are so like nature, that one can scarcely believe they have been arranged by the hand of art, and that the rocks are not real rocks, formed by a higher 46 TH3 OLD WORLD power than man. The Vacherie, with its fifty handsome cows, deh'ghted us very mucii. It i^ surrounded by beautiful grounds, and there are tables at which persons can sit and partake of the innocent luxury of fresh milk. It was Served in small white china bowls, and the pretty picturesque costume of the young waiting maids, and their pleasant manners, added greatly to the charm. Many occupants of the carriages ordered the milk to be brought to them there, and enjoyed it at their leisure without alightmg. We dined with some friends at the Cafe de Ma- drid, and were the victims of our cunning cocher, who took us in the most circuitous direction pos- sible, and several times lost his way in order to prolong the expedition. The Cafe was about ton minutes' drive from the Vacherie, and we were an hour and a half reaching it. However, the place proved so agreeable, and we enjoyed the meeting with dear friends so much, that we soon forgot the slight annoyance. Our excellent dinner was served to us in a lovely shaded bower, in the nicest manner possible, and as the garcon who attended us had lived a few years in our " land of steady habits," he took particular pleasure in be- stowing upon us his society and patronage. We SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 47 asted him if be intended returning to Connecti- cut, and were not surprised that he said " no " very emphatically ; for a pleasure-loving French- man must find our tusy, working land very dull. Paris has quite reminded us of home, in the building which we see going on in aU directions, and in the tearing down of many places already built. The throngs in the streets are incessant, and we have looked with wonder at the dexterity "with which men on velocipedes have managed to rush by vehicle after vehicle, and shape their course between and among them, without in any way interfering with their speed, or endangering themselves. Genoa, May 22. We are thus far on our way to the " Eternal City," having left Paris on the morning of the nineteenth. The country was most interesting during the entire day, being through Burgundy, with its beautiful vineyards, and rows upon rows of poplar-trees, with an occasional sprinkling of the inorus multicaulis. At Dijon, the conductor announced that we should remain twenty-eight minutes, and as we were informed that there was an excellent table d'hote at th^ station, we decided to try 48 THE OLD WORLD it. We were shown into a large pleasant room, with neat muslin curtains at the eight windows. The table-cloth was as white as snow, and the napkins, ditto. We had seven different courses, with changes of plates at each course. Soup, roast beef with potatoes, lamb and spinach, pickled fish, asparagus, roast chicken and salad, pudding, followed by coffee, cheese, and fruit. Everything was beautifully served, without bustle or confusion ; and of course there was a profu- sion of Burgundy wine, there being three bottles placed before each plate. There were also at inter- vals in the centre of the table, circular shelves in pyramidal form, which were filled with bottles. All this was furnished for a little more than four francs each person. Shall we ever see the time in our own land when a meal can be eaten so comfortably at a railway station ? Six o'clock the next morning found us very near Marseilles, crossing a dreary flat, composed of stones and high grass, with a decidedly saltish atmosphere prevailing. We were glad to refresh ourselves at a comfortable hotel, after our night in the cars, and afterwards we drove about the city. From a bare, rocky hill, called Notre Dame de la Garde, from the curious chapel on the summit, we SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 49 had a fine view of Marseilles itself, which is spread over a gradually sloping basin, and sur- rounded by hills covered with vineyards, and olive gardens, among the bleak-looking rocks. On the other side, the beautiful blue Mediterra- nean stretches far off in the distance. The chapel of "La bonne Mere," is in so elevated a situation, that the ascent to it cannot be made without much panting and many pauses, but it is a great resort. An image of the Virgin, carved in olive wood, and of great antiquity, is held in the highest veneration throughout the Medi- terranean by sailors and fishermen and their families, who bestow offerings of all kinds to pro- pitiate her favor. At every convenient place in the ascent, we found women stationed with candles, medals, and rosaries, which they urged us to buy, and which we respectfully declined doing. Our stay in Marseilles was rather brief, but quite sa- tisfactory, and we had a charming expedition to Nice on the same day, by the railway which skirts along the sea-shore. The scenery much of the time was very grand, and Vv^e passed Toulon with its strongly fortified harbor, Cannes, and other favorite winter watering-places. At Cannes, Lord Brougham, full of years and 4 50 THE OLD WOELD honors, bad died a short time before at his pretty villa, named Louise Eleonore. Nice, with its surrounding mountains to shut out the cold winds and the glorious sea at the south, must be a delicious winter climate. The temperature is soft and mild, and flowers ai*e in blossom all the year round in the open air — while there are orange trees in every stage, from the blossom to the mature fruit. The town is almost deserted now, and it was with diflicnlty that we found a hotel prepared to take us in. The " Hotel de France " at leiigth opened its hosjDitable doors, and we found it pleasantly situated and well kept. The next morning we drove to the old chateau, a very high point which is i-eached by a road, en zigzag, and from which we had a glorious view of the city, the Mediterranean, and the spiu's of the Alps in the distance. We are in the midst of tropical fruits and flow- ers, and constantly see the most bi-illiant gera- neums growing wild in great profusion. The single scarlet poppy seems to be the iveed of the country, and we see millions of them in the fields, and by the roadside, ujaking everything look very gay. "\Vh;n we left Nice, I carried in iriy hand a branch cofitaining seven oranges, which I had SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 51 picked in the garclen of the hotel. Our sail of eight hours, from Nice to Grenoa, was delightful. The sea was perfectly calm, and we kept near the shore, thus having a good view of the mountains, the various towns, and the marvellous Cornice road, which follows the indentations of the shore, now ascending, and then descending high moun- tains, and then appearing again along the beach. We have spent a part of two days in wander- ing about Genoa, which is well called "La Su- perba " from its commanding position upon the Bay, and the magnificence of its palaces and churches. The streets in nearly all parts of the town, however, are very narrow, and as there are no sidewalks, the middle of the street is as much used by pedestrians as any other part. The long white scarf which the women arrange so gracefully about their heads, and which falls in light folds over their necks and arms, is very picturesque, and gives a softness to the plainest face. From the church of Sante Maria di Carrig- nano, we had a perfect view of the city with its superb situation ; and the church itself, a fine building ot black and white marble, is one of great interest. It was built at a great expense 52 THE OLD WOELD .by the Saulis family, who also erecte/l a grand bridge over a dry chasm, in order to make the i church accessible. It has some very fine pictures ' and statuary, among them a martydom by Carlo Maratti, which is very striking. In one of the public squares stands the beauti- ful monument erected to the memory of Colum- bus, whom the Genoese are proud to claim as their son. Columbus stands tall and erect, with an earnest expression of face, his hand resting upon an anchor, while a female figure, rej)resent- ing America, is kneeling and looking up at him. The base of the monument bears this inscrip- tion : A CHRISTOFERO COLOMBO. La Patria. An ancient house near by is pointed out as one in which Columbus once hved. We drove out to the famous Pallavicini villa, which is about five miles from the city. Everything that taste and wealth combined can do, has been done to make this place most charming. There are fountains, cascades, summer-houses, grottos, statues, exqui- site flowers, and rare trees. In one of the grottos we entered a boat, and were rowed through nar- SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 53 row passages, formed of stalactites, and on coming out again at another side, we found oui'selves sur- rounded by banks of flowers, and floating on a beau- tiful little lake. There is a constant succession of surprises about the grounds, and when one enters an attractive summer-house, and receives a jet of water, fine as spray, from an unseen source, the surprise is decidedly startling. The whole scene was exquisite, and one felt like lingering there a longer time than the guide was disposed to give. Our drive back to Genoa, over a dusty road, was not a pleasant exchange for this Paradise. Florence, May 28. The morning after our departure from Genoa found us in Leghorn, where we landed fi-om the steamer in a small boat, and were received by the dreadful clatter of an Italian crowd, who insisted on seizing every parcel, ourselves included, and be- stowed attentions upon us which we would gladly have dispensed with. Fortunately the custom- house officers manifested less interest in us and our possessions, and let us off very easOy. "We made ourselves quite at home at the " Vic- tory and Washington Hotel," names we are ac- customed to associate together, and after break- fast sallied forth in search of whatever might 54 THE OLD WORLD interest us in in tliis bustling seaport town. Ttie principal result of our expedition was the purchase of a Leghorn hat, which we bought in the usual dishonest Italian way, by offering the man just half the sum he asked for it. As it was all it was worth, we were not surprised that he should have taken it, but we did not admire the principle of the thing very much. We were not disposed to linger long in Leg- horn, and were soon on our way to Pisa, where the Leaning Tower, the Cathedi-al, the Baptis- try, and the Campo Santo, form a splendid group of buildings. The Leaning Tower certainly does lean fearfully, and it will probably always remain a point in dispute, whether the inclination was intentional or not, as it has now been six centu- ries in this position. At the top of the tower are the bells, to contain which it was erected. They vary in size, but are all large and heavy, and are always rung at funerals. The Cathedral is very old and grand, and among its wonderful contents, we looked with much interest at the large antique bronze lamp, suspended from the ceiling, which first suggested to Galileo the theory of iLe pendulum, nearly three hundred years ago. The high altar of the SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 55 Cathedral is very large, and elaborately orna- mented, and there are some very fine paintings of. Andrea del Sarto. The Baptistry is very beautiful, being ahnost entirely of marble ; but there is a look of desola- tion about it when one first enters, as the space is M ide and high, and only broken by the font and pulpit. The latter is exquisitely carved, and supported by seven columns, composed of differ- ent marble?, wliich rest upon the crouching figures of animals. There is a very remarkable echo in the Baptistry, and the really musical voice of our guide was repeated again and again in the most sonorous manner, as he sang in loud tones to call out the response. The Campo Santo is composed of cloisters, lined with curious old frescoes, and within these cloisters is the sacred earth brought from Jerusalem in twelve hundred and twenty-eight. Most of the tombs are very curious and old, many of them very elaborately sculptured and adorned wdth statuary. There are some modern tombs among them, for burials take place here still, occasionally ; and among the recent mon- uments we saw one to Count Cavour, the great statesman and benefactor of Italy. 56 THE OLD WOKLD We drove past, tlie Palazzo Lanfrancliini, pret- tily' situated on the Arno, in which Lord Byron lived some time, and where he wi'ote some of his most famous and most wicked poems. The rail- way from Pisa was through a most charming, culti- vated country, wMch becomes more and more beautiful the nearer it approaches Florence. Now, as I wiite, I hear the rushing of the watei'S of the Arno, in fi'ont of the hotel, and although truth compels me to say that the river looks de- cidedly muddy and yellow at this season of the year, yet it is the Arno, and we are in Firenze la Bella! What treasures have we already laid up in the way of paintings and sculjjture ! Hov7 impossible ever to forget them, and yet how im- possible to describe them. The first look at the Pitti Palace suggests a prison, so abundant are the iron bars, and so rough the walls. One can hardly imagine the feelings of the dying Medici, who replied to the priest, when he vvas describing to him the heav- enly joys upon which he was about to enter : '•But / am content with the Pitti Palace." When once >vithm, however, it is not difficult to understand his entire satisfaction. We were shown through the elegant private apartments of SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 57 King Victor Emanuel, looking out upon the Boboli gardens, which are a profusion of terraces, and adorned with flowers, statuary, and fountains, an exquisite picture in themselves. Then the pic- tures within! What a feeling of j^ossession it gives one to see the Madonna della Seggiola of Raphael, the Virgin and Child of Murillo, the Bella Donna and Magdalen of Titian, and hun- dreds of others, of which one has heard, and seen in prints so many, many times. We wan- dered for hours, drinking in all these pleasures with a delight that never wearied. From the Pitti Palace we went to the Uffizi Gallery by means of a long corridor, or covered bridge, which takes one over the Arno, and is hung the greater part of the way with tapestry. With very little delay, we sought the "Tribune," in the centre of which stands the far-famed Venus de Medici, beautiful in form and extremely gTaceful, but without the soul in her face which one would hke to see. Near her, hang the Madonna del Cordellino, La Fornarini, and St. John Preaching in the Desert, by Raphael, and a Madonna and Child by Andrea del Sarto. Each one a gem, of which one could never tire. The device of Florence, a rose in a field of 58 THE OLD WORLD lilies, seems a very appropriate one, situated as she is in a theatre of verdant hills, covered with vines and olives, and dotted with villas. There is a constant fascination about hfe here, and one cannot but feel that ample provision is made for harmless enjoyments — enjoyments which culti- vate and refine. Pictures, statues, music, flowers, seem a part of the place itseK. The di'ive to the Cascine is a never-failing source of attraction, and for two or three hours of an afternoon, all Florence can be seen, walking or driving along the banks of the Arno, underneath the magnificent treeSj or stopping near the Grand Duke's farm-house to hsten to the band. This is the great gathering point, and carriages draw up side by side, for the iniaates to converse — flower-gu'ls in pictiQ-esque costume, dash rashly in among the horses, to offer you theii' fragrant bou- quets — ladies on horseback, attended by officers in full uniform, add to the beauty of the scene, while children with their nui'ses are made hajipy by a ramble in the woods, or by the river-side. A gayer scene it is scarcely possible to imagine. Even the coachmen, it is said, partake of this elegance, and in case of any disturbance among themselves, classically call upon Venus or Bac- SEEN THTH YOUNG EYES. 59 cbus, or swear "by the aspect of Minerva!" This I cannot vouch for, not having been the witness of any such contention. It is pleasant to know that in the midst of all this gayety, so much is being done to instruct and elevate, by means of rehgious teaching and literature. The orphan asylum and public schools, under the care of an ItaHan Protestant, are very successful ; while the Bible, and various religious works published by the Italian Evan,- gehcal Publication Society, are circulated with a freedom which a few years ago would have been deemed impossible. We have enjoyed meeting Mr. Powers, the sculptor, of whom all Americans are proud, and it was a great pleasure to be conducted about his studio by him. V/e regarded the long apron and closely-fitting linen cap, as becoming articles of dress on him, and his fine eyes glowed with feeling as he spoke of his native land. The Greek Slave, long so familiar to us, looked more beautiful than ever, by the side of her master, and we saw many exquisite busts and statues — among them the busts of our counti-ymen Edward Everett, Eobert C. WinthroxD, and Doctor Bel- 60 THE OLD WORLD lows — all of which were wonderfully like the originals. I coiQd not but think, as I stood there, of the Httle Kentucky boy, the son of a United States Senator, who on his return from Louisville, where he had been to see the Greek Slave, fell from the cars between Frankfort and Lexington, and his arm was so terribly crushed that it had to be amputated. When his weeping mother went to his bedside, shortly after the operation was over, and said to him, " My poor boy, your visit to Louisville has been a dear one to you." "All, mother," rephed the little fellow, with a look and tone of animation, " but I saw the Greek Slave." It is not strange that Mr. Powers should have been touched by such a tribute to his genius, and he expressed a strong desu'e to know the fate of the heroic boy. It is more than thirty years since Mr. Powers has seen his native country, yet he is enthusiastically American, and has honored us abroad, not only by his works, but in his pure, spotless life — a life quiet and unostentatious, but full of love and chai'ity to all. We visited the house in which Michael Angelo lived and died — it is quaint and old-fashioned, SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 61 but the apartments are quite spacious and elegant. They are kept very nearly as they were in the days of the wonderfully gifted artist, and many of his sketches hang upon the walls, with other works of art — among them portraits of Dante, Petrarch, and other celebrated men of Tuscany. In a little cabinet where he used to write, are preserved his sword and cane, and a pair of slippers which he wore more than three hundred years ago. We felt as if the genius of the place must be near, on seeing these things of every-day use. A house not less interesting to us was one with a marble slab inserted in the wall, telling the passers-by that here lived and wrote Elizabeth Barrett Browning — the Casa Guidi which she has immortahzed in her grand poem. We after- wards went to the beautiful cemetery, where a sculptured sarcophagus, with only the letters E. B. B. inscribed upon it, shows the last resting- place of this truly great and noble woman. How touching seemed her own lines, as we stood there : And, Mends ! — dear friends ! — when it shall be That this low breath has gone from me, And ronnd my bier ye come to weep. Let one, most loving of yon all. Say ' ' Not a tear must o' er her fall, ' He giveth his beloved sleep !' " 62 THE OLD wor.LD The Catliedral, with the dome which Michael Augelo so much admired, and the Baptistry with its wouderful bronze doors, are objects of great interest. So, too, is the Santa Croce, with its many monuments to illustrious dead — among them Michael Angelo, Dante, and Galileo. The Medicean Chapel at the San Lorenzo is gorgeous in beautiful marbles, exquisite mosaics and pre- cious stones, the lofty walls being entirely covered with them. The Grand Duhes of Tuscany are glorified in this chapel, their remains lying in the crypt below, while their armorial bearings adorn the walls above, and statuary and cenotaphs de- note their rank and wealth. Some of the statues are by Michael Angelo. One, of the Duke of Ur- bino, in a sitting posture, is very grand. He was the father of Catherine de Medici, who after- wards became the queen of Henry the Second of France, and rendered herself infamous by her persecution of the Huguenots. Rome. A lovely moonlight evening found us on our way here, and the night passed so very rapidly that there seemed only a few moments between the announcement of the names of the different towDB we passed through. The beautiful, cloud- SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 63 less early morning found us iu a country so en- chanting that we were glad to unclose our weary eyes and gaze with delight, even after a night of little sleep. The scenery was varied, and com- prised every variety of natural beauty — some- times mountainous, with rugged rocks, then cul- tivated plains, green slopes, and sheltered valleys. Everywhere we saw a profusion of grape-vines growing in festoons between trees ; a graceful arrangement which we had not observed before. We journeyed on through this enchanted land until nearly ten o'cloct, when the dome of St. Peter's burst upon our view, and in a few mo- ments more we were in Rome. Rome, " The city tliat so long Eeigned absolute, the mistress of the world." When we alighted from the cars a ruin met our gaze at once — some magnificent fragments of the baths of Diocletian ; and we felt this to be a proper introduction to the grand old city, although it was rather a sad reminder of past greatness. We drove at once to the Hotel de Londres, on the Piazza di Spagiia, where rooms awaited us, with balconied windows looking out upon the square, and within sound of the quaint- looking fountain near by. It was so pleasant to 64 THE OLD WOKLD sit there and rest, and realize that we were in Rome, that for some hours we were very quiet. A charming afternoon, however, tempted us to drive to St. Peter's, where we found no words in which to express our admiration and astonish- ment. The semi-circular colonnades, so familiar to us in pictures, seemed more remarkable still, when we saw that they were suj)ported by four rows of columns, with sufficient room between the inner rows for the passage of two carriages abreast. The fountains, too, as we heard the plashing of the gracefully-falling water, added not a little to the beauty of the entrance to this majestic temple. The interior so completely be- wilders one with its splendor and magnificence, that it is impossible for a long time to take it in, or comprehend its magnitude. Marbles, mosaics, pictures, gilding and brilliant colors abound, and one must look again and again before one can appreciate its treasures, or the gigantic scale on which everything is arranged. The bronze cano- py,-^in itself large enough for a small church, — which covers the high altar, stands beneath the stupendous dome, and underneath the high altar is said to be the grave of St. Peter himself. This altar is only used on solemn occasions, and then SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 65 the Pope officiates. Neai* by is the celebrated bronze statue of St. Peter, sitting in a chair, with the right foot extended, which has been so often and so lovingly kissed by the faithful that several of the toes have lost theu' shape. We noticed that some particularly neat persons wiped it off with a clean pocket handkerchief before kissing, while we strongly suspected that most of the de- votees did not possess that necessary article ; St. ■Peter's being open to all ranks and conditions. Soon after our return to the hotel, two funeral processions passed through the Piazza in front of our windows, consisting of long files of monks in white robes, bearing tapers. Then- chanting, which sounded like the most dismal wailing, was any- thing but exhilarating, and we were not sorry when the doleful psalmody ceased, and the pro- cession disappeared. Sunday being Whitsunday, we went early to the Sistine Chapel, in the prescribed black dresses and vails, without which no women are admitted, so that we all looked as if we had suddenly gon( into mourning. After passing the Swiss Guards in their curious costumes, composed of red, yel- low and black stripes, with white plumes an