LIBRARY OF CONGRESS T T ^ 5" Chap.. . Copyright i\'o Shelf _ ,£>?/! UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/stonesnewsuperla01ston Ac STONE'S '& -r^ t i \ n a c^ * NEW SUPERLATIVE Coat and Vest System BASED UPON THE PROPORTIONS OF THE HUMAN FORM , . BY CHAS. J. STONE CHICAGO, ILL. Giving the Correct Proportions for Forms of all Sizes, Illustrated with Sixty-five Diagrams, Accompanied by Full Instructions for Drafting the Various Styles of Gentlemen's Coats and Vests. PUBLISHED BY THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. CUTTING SCHOOL CHICAGO 89510 Library orGonaress twu Copies Received DEC 171900 — -, Copynght autre <3L, 2/0^9 SECONO COPY Oetaramd to ORDER DIVISION 0^24 1900 Mo s\ «bl Copyright, igoo, By the Chas J. Stone Co Cutting School / , / I DEDICATION. c^* 8^* e^* s^* To the modern cutter who believes in the Sartorial Art, I dedicate this work, trusting that he will accept it as a token of appreciation and esteem. THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS Preface, The Skeleton, Proportions, Heights, Widths, Combination of Height and Width, Proportions of the Body, The Coat; a Comparative View, Mapping, Three-Button Sack Coat, close-fitting, Four-Button Sack Coat, loose fitting, Bicycle Coat, Double-Breasted Sack Coat, . Three-Button Cutaway Frock, Three-Button Business Cutaway Frock, Double-Breasted Frock, Full Dress Coat, . Tuxedo (by Stone's Short Measure Method), Clerical Coat (by Superlative, Proportion and Shoulder Measure Methods), Single-Breasted Four-Button Sack (for cor- pulent figure, one-half inch erect), Three-Button Cutaway Frock (for a corpu- lent figure), One-Button Cutaway Frock (by Superlative Shoulder Measure Method), Double-Breasted Frock Coat (for corpulent figure), Double-Breasted Frock Coat (by Superlative, Proportion and Short-Measure Method), Sack Overcoat (medium close-fitting), Single-Breasted Sack Overcoat (medium loose-fitting), Single-Breasted Sack Overcoat (loose-fitting), Surtout Overcoat (Superlative Shoulder Measure Method), Double-Breasted Paletot (by Superlative Shoulder Measure Method), Double-Breasted Paddock, Double-Breasted Paddock, Old-Style Inverness Coat, PAGE 7 8-1 1 12-13 14-15 16-17 18-19 20-21 22—23 24-25 26-27 28-29 30-31 32-33 34-3 5 36-37 38-39 40-41 42-43 44-45 46-47 48-49 50-51 52-53 54-55 56-57 58-59 6o-5i 62-63 64-65 66-67 68-69 PAGE New-Style Inverness Coat, . . 70-71 Raglan Overcoat, . . 72-73 The Raglan Sleeve, . . 74 Sleeves, . . . 75 Normal Sleeve, . . .76 Sleeve for Larger Scye than Normal, jj Sleeve for a Fat Man's Coat, . 78 Variations in Sleeves, . . 79 Combination Cape Method, . 80-81 Vests, .... 82 Single-Breasted Vest for Normal Figure, S2-83 Full Dress Vest, . . . 84-85 Double-Breasted Vest, . . 86-87 Double-Breasted, No-Collar Vest, . 88-89 Vest for Corpulent Figure, . 90-91 Double-Breasted Vest for Corpulent Figure, 92-93 Theorizing, ... 94 Variations in the Slope of the Shoulder, 94-95 The Neck Gorge, ^ . 96-97 Stoop and Square Shoulders, . 98-99 Changes in the Neck Gorge, . 1 00-101 Disproportionate Proportions, 102-103 Stooping and Erect Figures, 104-105 Variations in Neck and Shoulders, 106-107 Comparison of Large and Small Waist, 108-109 Blade, Shoulder and Waist Suppres- sion, . . . IIO-III One Shoulder Lower than the Other, ""Sack Coat, . . 11 2-1 13 One Shoulder Lower thua the Cher, Frock Coat, . . 114-115 Attitude, . . . .1 1 6-1 17 How to Cut Loose-Fitting Coats, 1 1 8-1 19 How to Cut Loose-Fitting Coats, 120-121 Superlative Works on Cutting, . 122 Terms for Instructions in Cutting, . 123 Patterns for Men's and Women's Garments, 1 24 Tailors' Squares and Measures, . 125 Cutters' and Tailors' Shears, . 126 Practical Cutter and Tailor, . 127 PREFACE During the last twenty-five years almost all trades have been doubled in capacity of output. In the field of garment cutting as great changes have been taking place: competition has become acute, not only demanding greater expedition in the work of cutting, but also more accurate and finer work; old cutters have been left behind, old methods superseded, old systems abandoned. This is inevitable. All things change, and the law of their change is that they shall change for the better, otherwise they are on the road to extinction. So that while a system may have answered all the requirements of first-class cutting but a short time ago, to-day it may be lacking in every essential that a first-rate system should possess. Systems which have for basis unsound or inadequate principles cannot keep abreast of progress; and how can they do so when they have no basic principles whatever, being little more than a conglomeration of rules, and therefore incapable of further development? Such was the condition of all known systems when I first published my "Superlative Coat and Vest System; " it was an answer to the demand for a scientific system of cutting, and was based upon the true proportions of the human form. It led further to the production of my " Short Measure Coat and Vest System," and it leads now to this revised and enlarged edition of my "Superlative Coat and Vest System." The principles remain the same. They have been developed in harmony with the progress of cutting, making a system which lends itself to all phases of the science of cutting, meeting all the variations in style, all the new and strict demands which are constantly being put forth. Dr. Wampen, the anatomist, was one of the first to suggest proportions as a basis for a system of garment cutting. Its application has been attempted in many systems, and has always been abandoned in confusion; only in the works I have published has the principle of proportions been logically and scientifically carried out. and that it has greatly facilitated the work of garment cutting, making possible perfect fitting garments, elevating the science of cutting to an art, I leave this, my latest work, to testify. It has been my endeavor to be as simple and clear as possible in the explanation of this System, but the student must undertake a methodical study of the book Even the experi- enced cutter will not obtain the best results by simply glancing over one or two diagrams. The System is embodied in these diagrams and explanations, and only the student who begins at the beginning and goes to the end can thoroughly master it. THE AUTHOR, STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. THE SKELETON The skeleton is the framework of the edifice man, the beams and timbers, as it were, upon which the superstructure depends. The skeleton determines the size, power and capabilities of the animal, and is formed of a material sufficiently hard and solid for all the mechanical powers of sustention and retention, columnar and lateral support, encasement and leverage. The skeleton is a combination of two hundred bones, all of which it is, however,^ not essential to give; indeed, if we take into consideration the fact that most of them are to be reckoned in pairs or clusters, our number will be considerably diminished, as far as nomenclature is concerned. Of the forms of bones we have great variety, some are triangular in section, others quad- rilateral, others again round, and in some bones all these forms are combined, according to the uses and requirements on their different positions. So great, indeed, is the difference of form throughout the bony structure that it would be as useless as tedious to enlarge upon it here; and I shall content myself with the general dis- tinctions given them by Henry Warren, K. L., as long, broad, and short bones. The combined mass, or structure, is simply divided into the trunk and extremities. The trunk is composed of the head, the thorax, or ribs, with the sternum or breast bone, the bones of the hips and the great vertebral column or back bone. The extremities are designated as superior and inferior, and are the arms and legs. The bones composing the spine or vertebral column are twenty-four in number. Seven are given to the neck (cervical), twelve to the back or ribs (dorsal), and five to the loins (lumbar). The combined column, with its intervening cartilages, measures on an average from two feet four inches to two feet eight inches, independent of its base, the os sacrum, and the terminating bones of the coccyx. It has, when viewed in profile, a curved or serpentine form. In the neck it is slightly concave: approaching and united with the os sacrum, it again becomes convex. There is also a slight curvature as seen from behind or in front, its inclination being toward the left side. The intention of this deviation from the straight line is not satisfactorily explained. Each vertebra is supplied with transverse processes, or projections, articulating with the ribs, as well as others called oblique, which serve to connect the vertebrae with one another. The most prominent, however, and those which are most essential, as being most visible to the artist, are the spinous processes, having various directions according to their various amounts or directions of leverage in different vertebrae, and it will be well to note carefully the place of the seventh of the neck, called from its greater projection, vertebra prominens. The fifth also of those of the loins is worthy of notice, as most easily distinguishable. The os sacrum, forming the base of the vertebral column, is, in an advanced stage of life, but one bone, composed of five parts, or vertebrae, which have grown together. The whole column owes its flexibility to the discs of cartilage placed between each bone, and which are so elastic as to allow the column to move in all directions without injury to the spinal marrow STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 9 which runs nearly through its whole length. The greatest amount of movement takes place in those of the loins and neck. The bearing of the figure, more or less upright, is dependent on the curvature of the spinal column. To this column — against small smooth surfaces on the sides of the vertebrae are attached the ribs, twelve on each side, partly bony, partly cartilaginous. The upper seven are called true ribs, the lower five false ribs, as not being joined like the upper seven, to the sternum, or breast-bone. Their direction and arched shape downward, together with their increasing incli- nation, will be best seen by the figure of the skeleton on next page, Plate I. Though the mass or basket of the ribs presents a form so opposite to that of the living figure when enveloped in its fleshy covering, it should nevertheless be well considered as the foundation of which must be built the true form of the principal part of the trunk. The sternum, or breast-bone, forms at the center and front of the chest, as the vertebral column does posteriorly, the bond of support for the seven true ribs, to which it is attached by cartilaginous articulations. In early youth the sternum is composed of several bones; but in the adult it acquires the solidity of a single bone, though its higher and chief point of original division may in most cases be traced by a change in its angle. The general direction of the sternum is forward and downward, its angle varying much according to climate or race, or according to the habits or occupations of the individuals. The standard average angle for the sternum has been fixed at from twenty to twenty-five degrees. In the female the angle is greater than in the male; and so, in proportion, is the direction of that portion of the vertebral column constituting the neck, more upright in a woman than in a man. To the upper end of the sternum are attached the pair of claviculae, or collar bones, slightly curved outward at first, and then inward. They are usually more prominent in a man than in a woman, in whom we find them thinner and straighten At their junction with the sternum they leave the small hollow between them, usually termed the pit of the neck, which forms so useful a point for the adjustment of a true balance in the figure. The outward end of the clavicle is connected with the acromion and coracoid processes of the scapula. The pelvis comprehends the mass of large and strong bones forming the great cavity which occupies the middle of the human structure. Of these we may chiefly consider the os ilium, which forms on each side the great projection of the hip. Spread out in a basin-like form, it presents a capacious curved wall of bone, projecting in a strong crest forward and downward, and extending around the form posteriorly. It is surmounted by a powerful rounded edge or spine for the attachment of large and strong muscles. The figure of the skeleton will sufficiently describe the forms and positions of the other bones of this region. On the whole, the pelvis is larger and more capacious in the female than in the male, and it differs in form also, being comparatively less protuberant between the two crests of the ilia. 'I he arm — which, together with the wrist and hand, is designated by anatomists as the superior extremity — is appended to the clavicle and scapula, or blade bone, to which it is attached by strong ligaments. The bone of the upper arm, called the humerus or os brachii, is a long bone, round in part and somewhat twisted, enlarging at the top into certain tuber- osities and a rounded head, which, enveloped by the usual cartilage, rests against the glenoid cavity of the blade bone, fittingly hollowed out, and lined also with cartilage, to receive it. The lower end of the humerus becomes enlarged transversely, and by a peculiar point of beautiful mechanism is fitted to articulate with the two bones of the forearm, called the radius and the ulna, in such a way as that one -the radius — can be made to twist over the other in the act of turning the hand from back to front, or vice versa. This double action is called prona- tion and supination. To these are attached the numerous small bones of the carpus or wrist, IO STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. followed by those of the metacarpus, the space occupied by the back and palm of the hand, to which succeed the bones of the fingers. The inferior extremity, so called from its relative position, is comprised in a similar num- ber and arrangement of bones. The longer, called the femur or thigh bone, like the superior bone of the arm, is in part round and twisted on its axis. Like the humerus, too, it is furnished with a globular head, which, fitting into a glenoid cavity, forms a powerful ball and socket joint. It has further similarities to the above-mentioned bone of the arm, in the tuberosities about its head and neck. The chief of these, called the trochanter major, is of great import- ance in its position, as regards general form, as well as in the fact that it gives attachment to several powerful muscles. At the lower end the femur, like the humerus, widens into two projections, or condyles, forming the hinge of attachment to the main bone of the leg, called the tibia; and as the bones of the carpus and metacarpus intervene between the forearm and the fingers, so the bones of the tarsus and the metatarsus, at the ankle and instep, are the media of junction between the bones of the leg and the toes. To facilitate still further the study of the skeleton, or at least its careful examination, I present herewith a list of bones treated of in the foregoing, with their clinical and more familiar names. The student will find this list of great use in frequently referring to the construction of the framework of the body, and may by this means very soon familiarize himself with it. A. Os frontis — the frontal bone. A. The protuberances formed by the frontal sinuses. B. Os parietale. C. Os temporium. D. Ossa maxillaria superiora — bones of the upper jaw. E. Maxilla inferior — the lower jaw. F. The. seven vertebrae of the neck. G. The vertebral column. H. The seven true and five false ribs. I. Os sacrum. K. Os ilium. L. Os pubis. M. Os ischium. N. Sternum — breast bone. O. Clavicula — collar bone. P. Scapula— shoulder-blade. Q. Humerus or brachium — upper arm bone. R. Radius. S. Ulna. T. Bones of the carpus — wrist bones. V. Bones of the metacarpus. U. Bones of the fingers. W. Femur — thigh bone. WW. The patella. ' X. Tibia. Y. Fibula. Z. Bone of the tarsus. AA. Bones of the metatarsus. BB. Bones of the toes. CC. Os salcis, or bone of the heel. DD. Trochanter major. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 1 1 PLATE I. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. PROPORTIONS. (explanation of PLATE II.) HEIGHTS. The human form may be divided into eight sections, each section being the distance from the top of the head to the bottom of the chin. These eight parts may be subdivided into eighths, which gives us a figure sub- divided into 64 parts, or units. The 64 units of the human form are used by all anatomists, but there is dif- ference of opinion among artists as to how the measure- ments ought to be taken. According to Prof. Charles Rochet, the proper divisions are made with the figure lying on its back, the toes extended, or on tiptoe if standing. This is correct and useful in the plastic arts, but cannot be applied in cutting and tailoring. What tailors require is the division of the parts of the human body which are covered with clothing. Prof. Chas. H. Weigall's method of measuring from the crown of the head to the heel is better, although this measurement does not always contain eight times the length of the face. This distance can be divided into eight equal parts, however, as will be seen in Diagram 1. To these height divisions I have added crosswise or width divis- ions, and then proceed to apply the plan thus completed to the art of cutting garments. The proportionate height of a man is 5 feet 4 inches, or 64 inches, measuring 36 breast. But the average height, as we find it in everyday practice, is 5 feet 7 to 8 inches. Throughout this system a figure 5 feet 8 inches in height is taken as a standard. The different lengths, as shown in Diagram 1, are follows: From the crown of the head to the bottom of the chin, as to 1 on Diagram, is one-eighth of the entire height From the bottom of the chin to the top of the shoulders, as from 1 to 2 on Diagram, is g 3 * of the entire height, and to the bottom of the sternum, as from 1 to 3, is one-eighth From the bottom of the sternum to just above the navel and to the hollow of waist, as from 3 to 4 on Diagram, is one-eighth From the hollow of waist just above the navel to the commencement of the lower limbs, as from 4 to s on Diagram, is one-eighth From the commencement of the lower limbs to the middle of the thigh, as from 5 to 7, is one-eighth From the middle of the thigh to the bottom of the knee, as from 7 to 8 on Diagram, is one-eighth From the bottom of the knee to the bottom of the calf, as from 8 to 9 on Diagram, is one-eighth From the bottom of the calf to the small of the ankle, as from 9 to 10 on Diagram, is one- sixteenth From the small of the ankle to the sole of the foot, as from 10 to n on Diagram, is one-sixteenth Total STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 13 PLATE II. Alpha Paramount Cut 101. COPYRIGHTED, 1893, BY CHAS. J. STONE. H STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. PROPORTIONS. (explanation OF PLATE III.) WIDTHS. We have seen how the human form is divided in heights. In order that this theory of proportions may be applied in the art of cutting it must be divided in widths. How I accomplish this will be seen in Diagram 2. Here the body is divided into 16 equal parts, six parts for the front, six parts for the back, and two parts for each arm. Each of these divisions may be subdi- vided into four parts, making a total of 64 units, as in height divisions; but such small divisions are not nec- essary for our purpose, so I employ & parts. It will be seen that all proportionate lengths are taken from the height of the body, and all the propor- tionate widths are taken from the breast measure. The one is not in any way conflicting with the other, but rather the two form a harmonious whole. A man is in proportion when all the different lengths of the body are in proportion to the height, and all the different widths are in proportion to the breast measurement. The proportion is not between the height and the breast measure, as some cutters seem to think. Thus, a man may be 5 feet 4 inches tall and measure 36 breast, or 6 feet 4 inches tall and measure 36 breast, and still be in proportion. Or a man may be 5 feet 8 inches in height and 36 breast, or the same height and 46 breast, and be in proportion. Prof. Weigall enumerates the widths of the different parts of the body as follows: The width of the neck across is half a head. The width to the setting on the shoulders is one head and one-half. The width across the shoulders is two heads. This will also form an equilateral triangle with the navel. Under the armpits it is one head and a half. Across the waist one head and a quarter. The width of the top of the thigh is three-fourths of a head. Across the top of the knee is half a head. Across the bottom of the knee is also half a head. Across the calf is five-eighths of a head. It will suit our purpose to divide the different parts of the body as follows: Across the widest part of the head above the ears 3 parts. Across the neck 2 ' • Across the shoulders, including arms 8 " Across the back 6 " Across the waist 4^ ' ' Across the hips » 6% ' ' Across the middle of thigh 3 " Across the top of the knee 2 " Across the bottom of the knee 2 " Across the calf 2% " Across the small of the ankle 1% " The proportionate widths of this average man (5 feet 8 inches in height, 36-inch breast), are as follows: Around the bare neck *3j4 inches. Around the shoulders over the arms 41 " Around the breast 36 " Around the waist 32 " Around the seat 37 ' STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. '5 PLATE III. Alpha Paramount Cut 102. COPYRIGHTED, 1892, BY CHAS. J. STONE. i6 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. COMBINATION OF HEIGHT AND WIDTH. (explanation of PLATE IV.) The proportionate height dimensions of the human form were explained in the preceding pages. Before consid- ering their application in garment cutting, the divisions of the body into lengths and widths must be explained. THE LENGTHS OF THE BODY. In Plate IV the distance from A to C is commonly known to cutters as the depth of scye. Anatomically it is called the dorsal length. The distance from A to B, the slope of the shoulder, is the minor dorsal length, and the distance from B to C is the major dorsal length. The minor dorsal length, measuring three units, takes its proportions from height, and the major dorsal length, measuring five units, takes its proportions from width or breast measure. The combination of the minor and major dorsal lengths gives the depth of scye, as will be further explained in Plate V. The depth of scye cannot otherwise properly be determined, because the arm development is always in accordance with the breast development, while the breast measurement is not al- ways — is very seldom, indeed — in accordance with the height. The natural waist length for all normal figures will be one-fourth of the entire height. For an erect figure it will be less, and for a stooped figure it will be more than one-fourth height. The fashionable waist length is always regulated by prevailing style. The distance from the waist line to the largest part of the seat is one- eighth of height, as from D to F in Plate IV. THE WIDTHS OF THE BODY. The body is divided in width into sixteen equal parts, as shown in the diagram. From X to 8 is half of the coat; therefore it is divided into eighths on the square, and is so used in drafting. The width of the back is therefore three eighths, the armscye two-eighths, and the front three-eighths. From K to L is one- eighth, giving the round of the front part; from L to M is one-eighth, being the width of the neck. A line is drawn from L to N, giving the slope of the shoulder, as shown in the diagram, the entire width of the neck being two eighths. We therefore make the width of the back at the top, from O to P, one eighth on divi- sions on the square, or one-sixteenth of the entire width of the breast. Q is the top of the shoulder. Both shoulder seams should be shaped from Q up to the neck. The waist in a normal figure is 4 inches less than the breast. We therefore take out or suppress 1 inch at both H and J. In this manner I use the combination of heights and widths. It matters not what height my client is, nor what size breast he has, as long as all the lengths are in proportion to the heights, and all the different width sections are in proportion to the breast measure, we have the proportionate figure. PLATE IV. Alpha Paramount Cut 103. COPYRIGHTED, 1892, BY CHAS. J. STONE. i8 STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. PROPORTIONS OF THE BODY. (explanation of plate v.) A proportionate figure is one in which all the differ- ent measurements, such as length of legs and arms, height of neck and length of waist, together with all other lengths of the body, are in proportion to the height of the figure; and when all the different widths, such as the width of the back, blade and chest, are in proportion to the breast measure. In Plate V, we have a proportionate man. It further explains the matter treated of in explanation of Plate IV. It is here that the cutter usually meets his first obstacle. In attempting to locate the depth of scye from height he makes a mistake; for although the bone structure of the body takes its proportions from both height and width, the flesh and muscle development is not in proportion to the height of the frame. It is true that in a mature figure which measures 36 breast and 32 waist, 5 feet 4 inches in height, the depth of scye may be obtained from the height. But the figure may meas- ure 46 breast, 42 waist and 5 feet 4 inches height. The arms are branches of the main body, always developing with it; therefore, the size of the arm will take its pro- portion from width, or breast measure, and not from height. The size of the arm in an average figure is one inch less than half breast measure, increasing }4 inch to every inch of increase in breast; but in fat men the arm scye will increase only f of an inch to every inch "of increase in breast. In the diagram the distance from B to E is one- eighth of height. The distance from C to D is, accord- ing to my division of the body, already explained, & of the entire height, and from C to B is y 2 inch for incline at the neck, making the distance from the top of the neck to the top of the shoulder 3 units and y 2 inch. The increase for the incline at the neck in a normal figure 5 feet 4 inches in height is Y? inch. Also, there is an increase or decrease of i\ inch for every inch of increase or decrease in height over or under this stand- ard size. Thus the minor dorsal length will be: For figure 5 feet 4 inches. 3 $ inches For figure 5 feet 5 inches 3^ inches For figure 5 feet 6 inches 31 inches For figure 5 feet 7 inches 31^ inches For figure 5 feet 8 inches 3 f. inches For figure 5 feet 9 inches 313 inches For figure 5 feet 10 inches 31 inches For figure 5 feet n inches 31= inches For figure 6 feet 4 inches D to F is Yi breast, the size of the arm (yi of scye measure plus yi inch), taking its proportion from the breast, according to its muscular and fleshy increase and development. The distance from B to G, Plate V, the natural waist, is Y\ of height, and from G to H, to the seat, is yi of height. These proportions are taken from the height only. The distance from F to P is ^ of breast. The blade takes its proportions entirely from the breast, and has no connection whatever with the strap, as a great many cutters seem to think. It will be seen at a glance that the strap cannot be compared with the blade, for the reason that it contains the proportions of both height and width. The distance from the front of the scye at J up to the top of the shoulder is width, and the distance from the top of the shoulder to the side of the neck is height, while from the side of the neck to the center of the back is again breast. So the strap meas- ure really contains the distance from B to K and from D to F, which is breast. This amount may be com- pared to the blade, but after adding the distance from B to D, which is height, we cannot compare strap and blade except in an average figure. The increase in size of a corpulent figure is consid- erably more in front than in back; therefore the divis- ions of the back must be decreased and those of the front increased. This is the reason why the blade in large sizes is not proportionately as large as in the small sizes. It is in the larger sizes, as a rule, that we have fat men. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 19 PLATE V. t^-®A 20 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. THE COAT; A COMPARATIVE VIEW. (explanation of PLATE VI.) In Plate VI may be seen the relative proportions of a 36 and 46 breast coat, both for normal figures of the same height, 5 feet 8 inches. The height in both cases being the same, the coats must both be of the same length. As in a normal figure the slope of the shoulder is regulated by height, the distance from G to n in the 46 coat, and from M to 10 in the 36 coat, will remain the same; that is, 3 units and y 2 inch for the 5 feet 4 standard, and 3^ for a 5 foot 8 inch in height. The length of the natural waist will also remain the same, one-fourth of height (17 inches). The depth of scye is from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the scye }i breast, as from 1 1 to B and 10 to N. This must be regulated by the size of the arm, which takes its proportions from the breast measure. 11 to B is one-third of 23, being one-half of the breast measure of 46 breast; and 10 to N is one-third of 18, half of 36 breast. This holds good only in regular figures, not fat men's. If we divide the body into 16 equal parts, or one- half of the coat into 8 parts, we have 3 parts for the back, 2 for the arm and 3 for the front. A is the center of the body under the arm, B is the center of the back, and C the center of the front of a 46 coat. The Back Section. — A to B is % of the body, 46 breast, divided into four equal parts. Q to N is % of the body, 36 breast, divided into four equal parts. These parts are in reality sixteenths of the en- tire measurement, and as the entire width of the back contains six parts, or , s g of the entire width of the body, half of the back is three parts. Consequently the in- crease of width of the back is 1% of an inch for every inch of increase in breast. By holding the two backs even at point F (the side of the neck) the increase of the width of back from 10 to 11 will be i's, and from R to L i 2 6 of an inch. The increase at the top of the back at the neck will be from M to G, i' e of an inch for every inch of increase in size of breast. Y to A in a 46 coat, and Z to Q in a 36 coat, is y% of half, or'i'e of the entire breast measure, and increases h of an inch for every inch of increase in breast. The Front Section. — The distance from A to 3 in a 46, and from T to 3 in a 36 coat, is h of entire breast, and increases t l « of an inch for every inch of increase in breast. The distance from 3 to 4 is ^ of breast, and has an increase of h inch for every inch of increase in breast. The distance from 3 to C in the 46, and from 3 to W in the 36 coat, is j 3 e, and has an increase of i 3 8 inch for every inch increase in size. The breast being divided into sixteen equal parts, we can obtain an easy rule for the relative increase of every part. The width of the back being !%, there is an increase of i 3 « inch. The blade being fg, there is an in- crease of us inch. The breast being ft, there is an in- crease of ft inch for every inch increase in size. The armscye is represented by dotted lines at 14 and 15. Point 6, the sternal line, is opposite the top of the shoulder. The distance from 6 to 4 is the diameter of the scye. The distance from 6 to E is 3 units of height, and from 6 to 7 is 1^ units of height. (It will be re- membered that the height is divided into 64 parts, or units.) The student will observe that the top of the shoulder remains on the same line. The back shoulder points are at R, L, and the front shoulder points at S, K. But it will be noted that while all the increase of scye in the 46 coat has apparently taken place at the sides and bottom of scye, yet by extending the shoulders from R to L and from S to K we have g lined height over the shoulder point. It is sometimes argued that if point R on the small back is moved over to point L on the large back there will be no increase in height of shoul- der, and that point S on the small shoulder may be moved over to point K on the large shoulder and the height of shoulder remain the same. This is a mistake, however. The lower shoulder point at R, L is not stationary in different sizes, the width of the shoulder being largely regulated by flesh development. The bone structure or frame of a full-grown man, say 25 years old, whose breast measure is 36, has attained its normal growth, and will not increase in size. Ten years later his breast may have increased in size to 46. The extra size gained is an accumulation of flesh and fat. So the extra width of the shoulders is only flesh, not bone, and the increase of shoulder is not proportionately as large as the increase of breast, STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 21 PLATE VI. 22 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. MAPPING. (explanation of PLATE VII.) Before proceeding with drafting, I will present the method of mapping out the coat as illustrated in Plate VII. As explained in the foregoing pages, the distance from A to B is the minor dorsal length, and from A to C allowance is made for the incline at the neck. From B to D is the anatomical length, and from D to E is the allowance for flesh development. The distance from B to D is the same on the bone structure in all figures with the same height, but the flesh development from D to E is according to the size of breast. We will now proceed to map out a draft for a figure whose height is 5 feet 8 inches. C to B is 2>yi inches, and B to E is j4 breast. C to F is y^ of height (17 inches). Note. — It may here be argued that there is also an. incline at the actual waist line, which is true; but it is also true that the natural waist length on a perpendicular line is a little less than % of the entire height of the body, because the head is that much more than one- eighth of the height. While the actual waist length, with allowance included for incline at neck and waist, will be a little more (about % inch) than one fourth of the height, yet I find in practice that using one-fourth of the entire height for the natural waist length will produce satisfactory results. F to G is from 1 )A to 2 inches, according to style and fancy. Square lines C, B, E, F and G. E to 15 is half of the breast measure, 18 inches for a 36 breast coat. This I divide into eight parts, as pre- • viously explained. But by using j4 of the net breast measure the garment will be without seams, so the usual 2 inches must be added for seams and ease. If 2 inches is added to 18 inches, half of breast measure, we will have 20 inches. Therefore the divisions from C to 1, 1 to 2. 2 to 3, 3 to 4, and these sections crossways will be 20 on eighths instead of 18 for a 36 size coat, and so on for all sizes as follows: For drafting power use for 36 breast 20 on divisions. 42 breast 23 on divisions. 38 » 21 " 44 » 24 40 " 22 " 46 " 25 '' And so on for all sizes. The front sections from 8 to 7 are }£ breast net without addition, as nothing is needed for seams between 8 and 7. 7 to 6 is }& breast less one seam, which really adds a seam at neck gorge point 13. Point 9 K is half way between 3 and 4, if there was nothing added at top of back. Point M would then fall on point B, if we use point K as pivot. Sweep from M to N, measure the distance from N to 1, and move the pivot from K to 10, half of this amount. By using point 10 as pivot, swing- ing the back around, point 1 will fall on point 13. Only one seam has been added to width of back from A to M. At first glance it may seem that two seams should be added to the back section instead of one seam. Still two seams really have been added when the back is raised up S/% inch at point 1. The waist suppression in a normal figure is 4 inches less than breast, so 1 inch is suppressed at both n and 12. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 23 PLATE VII. 24 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. THREE-BUTTON SACK COAT. (explanation of PLATE VIII.) While this coat is shapely, it is not tight-fitting, and therefore is not military style. The shoulders are broad and well-padded, and the front is made up with a short stationary roll. The draft is produced from the following proportions: Breast, 36 | Waist, 32 | Seat, 37 Height, 5 feet 8 inches. TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 3^ inches. B to C is Yz breast. A to D is y of height. 17 inches. D to E i }£ of height, 8y inches. E to F is 3 inches for full length. Square lints B, C, D, E and F. C to 4 is 1/% and D to 5 is ^ inch. 5 to Y is y breast; square down from Y to 23, and add from 6 to 7, y inch. C to I is 3 parts, and C to H is 5 parts, of the division of half of the breast, with 2 inches addition (20 on 8ths). Square up from I and up and down from H. A to N is y inch more than J-g breast, and N to O is S/% inch. P to Q is ^ inch. Draw a line from B to H. Point 1 is y 2 inch below this line and ]/ 2 inch forward of line I. In shaping the back be sure to get a straight line from the scye down to hollow of waist. C to J is 2 J /l inches more than y? breast measure. Square down from J. J to 10 and L to n is iy inches. J to K is Ms breast. Square up to S. S to T is one seam less than y breast, and shoulder point T is y 2 inch below line A S. Draw a line from T to R. P to R is J^ inch. T to U is ^ inch less than O to Q. H to V is yi breast. 15 to 16 is y inch. S to 9 is y-z inch more than yi breast. 9 to 22 is 2 x y 2 inches. i to 2 is % inch. Y to Z is y inch. 7 to 8 is 2 j y inches. 2 to 24 is the same as 1 to 23. , Sweep from 24 to W by T. \V to X is 1 inch. 3 is the center of armscye. Take out y, inch at waist line, as from 13, 14. H to 12 is yi waist length (17 on J^rda). The ticket pocket is $y inches above the lower pocket-:, and the last button is opposite the opening of the ticket pocket. X to 25 is one inch more than yi breast. Draw a line from 26 to 25. 27 to 28 is y inch. The top button is y inch above the breast line. The collar is drafted as follows: T to 18 is y inch. Draw a line from 17 to 18, which will locate point 29; then draw a line from 29 through T to 19, for break of lapel and collar. 19 to 20 is 1 inch, and 19 to 2 1 is iy inches. The collar and lapel at notch finished is i% inches, and at the back seam iy inches. The back sleeve notch 24 is = ' 2 breast down from P, and the front notch 23 is y inch above point H. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 25 PLATE VIII. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. FOUR=BUTTON SACK. (explanation of PLATE IX.) This is a medium loose fitting coat, produced from the following proportions of height and width: Breast, 38 Waist, 34 Seat, 39 Height, 5 feet 8 inches. TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to J is 3^ inches and J to B is y's breast. A to C is 17, C to D is 17 on halves for seat line, and D to E 17 on fourths, full length of coat. B to I is 1 inch more than y breast. I to G is y breast and y inch, and I to H is ^ inch more than y breast. Square up and down from H and G. Draw a line from J to G. Points 3 and 4 are y? inch below 12. Point 1 is y z inch out from K, and point 3 is y% inch forward from line X K. A to L is y breast and L to M is y inch. M to N is y inch- Hollow back from B to 5, y inch, C to 6, ^ inch, D to 7, y inch and E to 8, y inch. 5 to F is half of breast measure and F to 16 is 2^ inches. Square up and down from 16. O to P is y inch less than y breast and P to Q is y inch. Draw a line from Q to K. G to Y is y and O to V is y inch more than yi breast. Q to 2 is 3/8 inch less than N to 1. Draw a line from R through S for spring. 3 to 4 is 1 inch. The seat measure may be applied from 7 to U and W to T, half of seat and 3^ inches. 16 to 17 and 18 to 19 is \y inches. The width of lapel and collar at notch is 13/J3 inches. G to 11 is y, waist length. The sleeve notches are located as follows: 1 to 10 is 1*5 breast and G to 9 is 3^ inch. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. PLATE IX. 27 23 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. BICYCLE COAT. (explanation of PLATE X.) The bicycle suit is usually made of Scotch plaid cheviot, and in some instances from a plain, light- colored material. The coat is cut rather wide across the shoulders with a trifle wider back than for ordinary wear. The back is cut without a center seam. The front closes with four buttons, and there are four out- side patch pockets with flaps to go in and out, and an inside pump pocket in the facing, z% x 6 inches. It is usually made up skeleton, and the facing is wide enough to go through the whole shoulder. The draft is pro- duced by proportions from the following measures: Breast, 36 Waist, 32 Seat, 37 Height, 5 feet 8 inches. TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 3^ inches. B to C is yi breast. A to D is % height (17 inches). D to E is y% height (8yi inches). E to 6x is 2 yi inches, making the total length 28 inches. Square lines B, C, D, E and F. C to G is }4 of breast measure. Square up and down from G. C to I is ^ inch more than yi breast, and C to H is yi inch more than 2 A breast. I to J is 1 yi inches. yi breast and % inch will be the same as 5 parts of half of breast with the 2 inches additional with seams added, so this method, while different from my regular division, may be used here if desired, for they both come out just the same. Square up lines J and H. 14 to P is % inch, and D to N is yi inch. Draw back center line P, N, O. N to X and O to Y is yi breast. K to L is yi breast, and K to W is % inch. P to Q is yi breast, and Q to R is S/g inch. S to T is % inch less than yi breast. T to U is l / 2 inch. S to 7 is ye breast. Draw a line from U to W for top of shoulder. U to V is yi inch less than R to W. 17 to 18 is % inch. 7 to 8 is 3^, G to 9 is 3^, 10 to 11 is 3^ and Z to 12 is \yi inches. 1 to 2 is 1 inch. 5 to 6 is 2.yi inches. K to 15 is -fe breast for the back notch of sleeve. H to 16 is y^ inch for the back notch of sleeve. Shape as represented. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. PLATE X. 29 3° STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK COAT. (explanation of PLATE XI.) The shoulders are cut quite wide. The waist is moderately close fitting, with a bell effect at the bottom over the hips. Height, 5 feet 8 inches Breast, 38 TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 3^ inches. B to C is yi breast. A to D is 17 inches, waist length (^ of height). D to E is %% inches (y waist length), and E to F is ^ waist length, or i\ of height. Square lines B, C, D, E and F. C to 1 is y, D to 2 is y, and E to 3 is y inch. 1 to G is ^ inch more than y breast. G to H is y&, and G to I is ^ breast. Square up from I and up and down from H. I to J is y? inch. Square down from J to 13. A to W is Y% breast and % inch. W to X is y$ inch. 17 to Z is A breast. H to R and I to Q is Ve breast. Draw a line from Z to Q, locating width of back at Y. Shape back in a half-circle from Y to G. 18 is iS up from I. N to O is y inch. Shape back from 18 through O, 4 to 13. Draw spring line from 16 through O, to locate point 6, and shape as per diagram. 1 to L is half of breast measure. L to K is 1 y> inches only, as nothing is taken out between back and side body at 18 and I. Square down from K to 12. K to M is y, breast. Square up from M to T and draw line from T to K. Draw a line from T to B. T to U is y inch less (on seam) than y breast. Draw a line from U to P. U to V is y inch less than X to Y. T to 15 is y inch more than y breast. Shape armscye, shoulder and gorge. 15 to 20 is iy, inches. K to 10 is 7,y inches. Square down from 10 through 9 and 7. 9 to 7 is 4y inches (y of height). 7 to 8 is y inch. Shape front edge from 10 through 9 and 8. 18 to 14 is the same as 18 to 13. Sweep from 14 to n by U. 11 to 12 is iy inches. Draw a line from M through 20 for run of lapel. H to 19 is y, of waist length (17 on y$), which will locate the top and center of pocket. The lower button is placed opposite the lower pocket and the top button 1 inch below breast line. The buttons are set back iy inches, which is iy inches less from the center line than it is from the center line to front edge. TO DRAFT THE COLLAR. Draw the break line from first buttonhole at the breast to 15, then from 15 through shoulder point U to 21. 21 to 22 is 1 inch, and 21 to 23 is 1%' inches. The width of lapel at notch is 2j4, and collar 2^ inches, this being the prevailing style. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. PLATE XI. 31 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. THREE=BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK. (explanation of PLATE XII.) This draft is of a regular three-button cutaway frock, produced from the following proponions of heights and widths: Breast, 36 Waist, 31 Height, 5 feet 8 inches. TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to C is 3^4 inches, and C to B is y, breast. A to D is 17 inches (one-fourth of height). D to E is 2 inches. Square lines B, C, D and E. D to F is y height, making the full length of coat 34 inches. B to G is 2^ inches more than y breast measure. Square down from G to X. G to H is yi breast. Square up to Q and draw a line from G to Q. Q to R is y inch less than }& breast,and Rto S is ^ inch. C to K is one inch more than half of breast (20 on halves), and K to J and K to I is y inch more than y breast (20 on eighths). Square up lines I and J and square down from K to L. Draw a line from S to M for top of front shoulder. A to N is y inch more than yk breast. N to O is 54 inch. M to P is 3/z inch. P to 1 is 2j£ inches. 1 to 2 is ^ inch down and forward. D to 3 is yi inch. 3 to 4 is 2 yl inches, and 4 to 5 is 1 inch. L to 6 is \~yl inches. 6 to 7 is 1 inch. K to 8 is y inch. Lengthen sidebody y inch below waist line as at points 9 and 10. Sweep from 9 to X by shoulder point S for front length. I to V is y, breast. S to U is y% inch less than O to P. S to T is y inch less than y breast. T to 21 is 2^ inches. G to 20 and 18 to 19 is \y inches. The waist being one inch less than normal, take out a small V at waist seam of forepart so that the pattern will measure half of waist, and 2 inches for seams; be sure to have the top of V come well forward toward center of breast, so as not to produce fullness under the arm, which is to be avoided. THE SKIRT. Point Y is half way between W and X. Square back from Y to Z. Make a mark opposite front of scye as at point 12, and shape top of skirt from Z through 12 to X, raising top of skirt over hip y inch. 12 to Z is the same as forepart and sidebody from 12 to 1 1 and 10 to 9. 4 to 13 is &y inches (half of natural waist length). 13 to 14 is Yz inch. Z to 17 is the same as 15 to 16. Shape spring from Z through 14 to 17. 17 is half way between 16 and F. The width of lapel and collar at notch is 1^ inches, the stand of the collar at center of notch is 1 inch, and the turnover 1^ inches. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 33 PLATE XII. 34 STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. THREE=BUTTON BUSINESS CUTAWAY FROCK. (explanation of PLATE XIII.) A business cutaway is drafted the same as a regular three-button cutaway, with the exception that it is cut shorter and has flaps on the sides. Following are the measurements: Breast, 38 Waist, 33 Height, s feet 10 inches. TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 3^8 inches, and B to C is yj breast. A to D is 17^ inches (one-fourth of height). D to E is 2 inches. Square lines B, C, D and E. D to F is 1 inch less than j{ height, making the full length of coat 34 inches. C to G is 2% inches more than j4 breast measure. Square down from G to X. G to H is }i breast Square up to Q and draw a line from G to Q. Q to R is 1^ inch less than y& breast, and R to S is J^ inch. C to K is one inch more than half of breast (21 on halves). K to J and K to I is yl inch more than yl breast. Square up lines I and J, and square down from K to L. Draw a line from S to M for top of front shoulder. A. to N is yl inch more than yk breast. N to O is S/s inch. M to P is f/fs inch. P to 1 is 2% inches. 1 to 2 is ^ inch down and forward. D to 3 is % inch. 3 to 4 is 2yl inches, and 4 to 5 is 1 inch. L to 6 is \yl inches. 6 to 7 is 1 inch. K to 8 is 24 inch. Lengthen sidebody yl inch below waist line as at points 9 and 10. Sweep from 9 to X by shoulder point S for front length. I to V is \i breast. S to U is 3/s inch less than O to P. S to T is yl inch less than yl breast. T to 21 is 2 34 inches. G to 20 and 18 to 19 is 1^ inches. The waist being one inch less than normal, take out a small V at waist seam of forepart so that the pattern will measure half of waist, and 2 inches for seams; be sure top of V comes well forward toward center of breast, so as not to produce fullness under the arm, which is to be avoided. THE SKIRT. Point Y is half way between W and X. Square back from Y to Z. Make a mark opposite front of scye as at point 12, and shape top of skirt from Z through 12 to X, raising top of skirt over hip y^ inch. 12 to Z is the same as forepart and sidebody from 12 to 11 and 10 to 9. 4 to 13 is &yl inches (half of natural waist length). 13 to 14 is Yi inch. Z to 17 is the same as 15 to 16. Shape spring from Z through 14 to 17. 17 is half way between 16 and F. The width of lapel and collar at notch is 1% inches, the stand of the collar at center of back is 1 inch, and the turnover iS^ inches. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 35 PLATE XIII. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK. (explanation ok PLATE XIV.) This draft is for a normal figure measuring — - Breast, 38 Waist, 33 Seat, 39 Height, 5 feet 8 inches. TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 3^ inches and B to C J/3 breast. A to D is 17 inches (y of height). D to E is 1 y 2 inches. Square lines B, C, D and E. A to 27 is 37 units of height (39 & inches). C to M is one inch more than y? breast. M to N and M to O is ^ inch more than y breast (21 on eighths). Square up lines N and O and square down from M to Q. A to L is y inch more than y breast (21 on eighths). L to 1 is S/% inch. K to 2 is y% inch. 2 to 4 is 2 j y inches. D to 9 is y inch. 9 to X is 2 z y inches. X to 8 is 1 inch. Q to 6 is iy inches and 6 to 7 is 1 inch. The sidebody seam is y inch back from point M. 4 to 5 is y inch forward and down from 4. Lengthen sidebody one seam as at 14—15. C to F is half of the breast measure. F to G is 2y inches. Square up and down from G. H to I is }i breast. Draw a line from I to B. I to J is y inch less than y, breast. Draw a line from J to K. J to 3 is y% inch less than 1 to 2. N to P is y breast. J to V is y inch less than y breast. V to 20 is y inch. Sweep from T to U by shoulder point J for front length. Draw a line from U to T for top of skirt. U to 16 is y inch. Raise skirt seam as from 10 through 16, 17 and 18. Points 10 and 12 are opposite front of scye, point N. The waist being one inch smaller than normal, a small V is taken out of the forepart as at 12. Measure forepart and sidebody from 12 to 13 and 14 to 15, and make the skirt the same amount from 10 to 1 1. X to Y is Sy inches {}/% of height or y 2 of natural waist length). Y to Z is 2 inches for normal figure when seat is 1 inch more than breast, with a variation of y inch for every inch more or less seat. 11 to 28 is y inch more than E to 27. U to 26 is the same as 1 1 to 28. The lapel is drafted by drawing a line from 17 to 19. 17 to 18 is 2 y inches, 21 to 22 is 3 inches. G to R is y breast. Draw a line from R through 19 for run of top of lapel and through 20 for the collar. The width of lapel at notch is 2 inches and the collar t.S/%. The collar at back seam is 1 inch stand and iy inch turn over, or according to style and fancy. Square down from 23 to 24. 23 to 24 is y 2 inch more than 1 1 to 28. 25 is half way between 23 and 24. 24 to 26 is 1 inch. Shape front of skirt from 23 through 25 to 26. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 37 PLATE XIV. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. FULL DRESS COAT. (explanation of PLATE XV.) This draft is produced by proportions from the fol- lowing measures: Breast, 37 Waist, 33 Height, s feet 7 inches. TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 3}^ inches. B to C is }i breast. A to D is i6J4 inches (one-fourth of height). D to E is 1 Y inches. Square out lines B, C, D and E. D to 17 is 4 r » s inches more than Y height. Entire length is 371-1 inches (36 units of height). C to H is one inch more than half breast (10^ inches, or 20^2 on halves). H to I and H to K is Y inch more than Y breast (20^ on eighths). I to J is y 2 inch. Square up lines I, J and K. A to N is ^ inch more than Y breast (20J4 on eighths). N to O is S/s inch. M to X is ^ inch. M to 1 is 1^ inches. D to 4 is Y inch. 4 to 5 is 1 24 inches. C to G is 2}( inches more than half of breast measure. Square up and down from G. G to Q is Y breast. Square up from Q to R and draw a line from R to G. R to S is Y i ncn l ess than Y breast. 5 to T is Y inch. Draw a line from T to B and T to M. K to P is Y breast. T to V is 3^ inch less than O to X. Y to 26 is Y inch. I to 2 is Y inch. Square down from H to Z. H to 3 is Y inch. Z to 20 is i% inches and 20 to 21 is 1 inch. Line 7-22 is one seam below waist line. Sweep from 7 to 8 by shoulder point T for front length. II to 22 is 1 inch and 8 to 12 is iY inches. THE SKIRT. 10 is half way between 8 and 1 1. Square out from 10 to 9. 5 to 17 is 8Y inches (Y height). 17 to 18 is Y inch. Mark off a point as at W and measure forepart and sidebody from W to 22 and 7, and make skirt the same from W to 9. 12 to 13 is 1 inch. Measure the skirt from 9 to 13, and go back from 13 to 14 one-half inch more than Yi the distance from 9 to 13. 19 is in the middle of back skirt. 19 to 16 is Yi the distance from 9 to 13. 16 to 15 is Y inch. 9 to 19 is the same as E to F. The lapel is drafted by drawing a line as from 8 to 27. G to 28 is Y% inch. 8 to 30 is iY an d 28 to 29 is 23^ inches. The collar is drafted by drawing a line from second button through shoulder point T up to 32. 32 to 33 is Y inch. 33 to 35 is 1 inch and ^^ to 36 is iY inches. The width of lapel at notch is iY inches and the collar \Y inches, or according to style and fancy. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 39 PLATE XV. 4° STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. TUXEDO. BY STONE'S SHORT MEASURE METHOD. (explanation of PLATE XVI.) The draft is produced from the following measure- ments, which are of a normal figure: Strap, 12 Natural waist length, 17 Over shoulder, i7# Full length of coat, 3° Closing, 13 Breast, 38 Blade, 11^ Waist, 34 Depth of scye, 9% Seat, 39 TO D RAFT. Commence by squaring out and down from A. A to B is depth of scye; to C natural waist length; to E full length of coat. C to D is y 2 of the natural waist length (8% inches). B to F is y inch. F to G is Yz breast. 6 is half way between A and F. Square lines G, B, F, C, D and E. B to H is blade measure, and H to I is ij^ inches. L to K is Yz inch more than % breast. K to 7 is y inch. Square down from 7 through 9 and 8. Square up from K and L. F to R is y 2 breast measure. R to S is 2~y inches. S to U is y breast. Square up from U through V. X to Y is ys breast. Draw a line from Y to S. Apply strap length from 1 to W and make a sweep. A to O is yg breast plus y inch. O to P is y^ inch. L to M is y$ breast. Draw a line from P to M for run of shoulder. Point Q is y inch forward from N. Measure back from A to P and deduct same amount from W to V, then apply the over-shoulder measure from 1 to 2, place this at I and measure up to 3. Apply closing measure from J to Q and from I through M to Z. V to 21 is y breast. Draw a line from 6 to I. B to 1 is y inch. C to 14 is ys inch. D to 15 is y inch. E to 16 is ys inch. 8 to 1 1 is 3/s inch. 4 to 5 is 1 inch. 9 to 10 is Ys inch. Apply seat measure from 15 to n, place this at 20, and measure back to 12, one-half seat and 3^ inches. Draw a line from 10 through 12. 5 to 17 is the same as 4 to 13. Sweep from 17 to 18 by shoulder point V. 18 to 19 is 1 inch. Draw a line from 17 to 19. Point 22 is y inch forward of shoulder point V. Draw a line for break of collar from waist line at point T through 22 up to 23. 23 to 24 is y inch. 24 to 25 is 1 inch. 24 to 26 is iy inches. Shape as represented. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 4i PLATE XVI. \^ 2 6 42 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. CLERICAL COAT. BY COMBINED SUPERLATIVE, PROPORTION AND SHOULDER MEASURE METHODS. (explanation of PLATE XVII.) The diagram of a clerical coat is produced from the following measures: Strap, I2ji Full length, 38 Upper shoulder, 27^ Breast, 38 Lower shoulder, 26^ Waist, 35 Scye, 18 Hip, 37 Natural waist, 17 Seat, 39 Fashionable waist, 183^ Neck, 16 Height 5 feet 8 inches. TO DRAFT. Square lines A B and A O. A to B is Yi of upper shoulder measure. B to C is 1 inch. A to D is 17 inches, natural waist, to E i83^, fashion- able waist, and to F 38 inches, full length of coat. Square lines C, D and E. C to G is y?, breast and 2^ inches added for make-up. Square down from G to V. C to I is Y inch down and forward from 1. 8 to 9 is 1 inch. 3 is halfway between J and K. Square down from 3 to 4. 3 to 21 is y inch. 4 to 5 is yl inch and 5 to 6 is 1 inch. Point 10 is y inch above sweep. Line Z, 1 1 is y, inch below waist line. I I to 13 is y inch. Draw a line from 13 to E for top of skirt. E to G is y of natural waist length (&y inches). 13 to 12 is y inch more than n to Z. Shape spring line from 12 through G to 16. Sweep from Z to P by R. 12 to 16 is y inch more than F to H. P to 17 is the same as 12 to 16. U to M is y breast measure. M to N is 2y inches. Square up and down from N. N to Q is one seam less than y breast. Square up from Q to R. X to Y is y inch less than y breast. Measure back from A to T; place this amount at Qand measure up net length of strap to V and draw a line from V to L for height of shoulder. 20 is halfway between M and Q. Draw a line from 20 through Y for run of lapel. N to 19 is 4 inches and P to 18 is 3^ inches. The lower button is placed y inch below sweep line P, and the top button y inch below the breast line. THE COLLAR. Draw a line from first button through shoulder point V up to 22. 22 to 23 is y inch. 23 to 24 is iy inches. 23 to 25 is 2 inches. The width of collar at notch is 2^ and the lapel at notch is 3 inches. Shape as represented. Note — Wuen the width of top of back from A to S is y inch more than Y% breast the distance from R to V is y 2 inch, and if the width of back from A to S is made % breast the distance from R to V will be y inch. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 63 PLATE XXVII. /" 64 STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. DOUBLE-BREASTED PADDOCK. (explanation of PLATE XXVIII.) The draft is produced by proportions from the following measurements: Natural waist length, 1 7}i Breast, 38 Fashionable waist length, ig}( Waist, 34 Full length, 41 Seat, 39 Height, 5 feet 9 inches. TO DRAFT. Commence by squaring out and down from A. A to B is 3?r| inches. B to C is yi breast. A to D is natural and to E fashionable length of waist and to F full length of coat. Square lines B, C, D and E. C to G is y 2 breast and G to H is 2^ inches. Square up and down from H. C to M is one inch more than J^ breast (21 on halves). M to J and M to L is % inch more than yi breast. Square up from L and square up and down from J. I to T is ^ breast, T to S is one seam less than yi breast and R to S is y 2 inch. Draw a line from H to T. S to 7 is ]/\ breast and 7 to 8 is i~y inches. A to N is Y% breast plus y inch and N to is -^ inch. Draw a line from S to P, measure distance from O to P and make distance on straight line from S to Q $A inch less than O to P. J to 14 is yi breast. P to 19 is 2^ inches. 19 to 20 is Yi inch down and forward. D to 1 is 3 inches and 1 to 2 is 1 inch. ( Continued Square down from M to W. W to 3 is 1 inch and 3 to 4 is 1 inch. D to X is Yi breast. Measure distance from 1 to X and go back from U to V same amount that there is from 1 to X, and draw a line from V through 2 for spring of skirt. Point 5 is y 2 inch above point 6. The side body must be stretched out in hollow of waist this amount. Measure the distance from 6 to 17, and make distance from 5 to 16 the same, then sweep from 16 to 15 by shoulder point S, and add ij{ inches to sweep at 15 for front length. Y to n is 2,% and H to 12 is 3^ inches. 8 to 9 is 3/s inch. 22 is halfway between J and Ff. Draw a line from 22 through 9 and from 22 through 8 for run of lapel and collar. The width of lapel at notch is 3 and the collar 2 inches. TO DRAFT THE COLLAR. Draw a line from first button hole below the roll through shoulder point S to 23. S to 23 is width of top of back, 23 to 24 is yi inch and 24 to 25 is \}i inches collar stand. The width of turn-over of collar in back is 2^ inches. J to 18 is y% of natural waist length. The pocket opening is 7}^ inches, V3 of this amount is back of 18 and ^3 in front of 18. Shape as represented. on page 66.") STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. v 65 PLATE XXVIII. 66 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. DOUBLE-BREASTED PADDOCK. ( Continued from page 64 ) (explanation of plate xxix.) A paddock cut with sidebody attached to the skirt Split the sidebody across as from G to F, and swing invariably results in a shortness of sidebody, and it it over until it meets the forepart, as at E, A. has to be stretched down a great deal in order to We have now gained about i/± inch extra length of produce a smooth fitting garment in the waist and over sidebody at G. Paste a piece of paper over the open- the hips. ing, and reshape the side seam by hollowing out }( inch An easy method of overcoming this difficulty is at the hollow of the waist at G. Add about j4 inch shown in Plate xxix. We will take the regular pattern as more spring all the way down, as per crossed line, drafted on the preceding page. The V under the arm Now reshape the V under the arm. The distance extends down to the pocket opening, as from A to B. from C to B will be about }( inch shorter than the dis- The pocket extends from B to C. tance from C to D. Lay a pleat on the pattern as from J to K, running The lower edge of the pocket opening must be worked out to nothing at C. This will open up the pocket from in a trifle, and the upper edge may be stretched a very ^ to 1 inch, as from B to D. The sidebody will then little, so a-; to have them come out even, be as per dotted lines F, E, H, G, and there will be an By this operation we have secured the extra side opening, or space, of about 1 inch betweei the sidebody length wanted, and shortened the front edge, which is and forepart, as from dotted line E to A. really needed. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 67 PLATE XXIX. 68 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. THE OLD STYLE INVERNESS COAT. (explanation of PLATE XXX.) The old style Inverness is drafted from the regular proportions from the following measures: Inside length of sleeve, 19 Length, 41 Collar, Breast, 17 40 Height, 5 feet 8 inches. TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 3^ inches and B to C is }i breast. A to D is 17 inches (}( of height), to E, full length, 40 inches. D to F is }£ breast. Square lines B, C, F, D and E. C to G is j4 breast and 3 inches (23 inches). Divide this into eighths (23 on eighths) for working power. H is half way between C and G. H to I is y&. H to J is y% (23 on eighths). Square up and down from I and up from J. A to L is }£, and N to O is }4 (23 on eighths). L to M is 5/s inch. O to P is 'A inch. Draw a line from P to B, and a line from M to K; where these two lines cross is point R. F to 12 is y inch. Draw a line from A through 12 to V. V to W is ^ breast (10 inches). Draw a line from K to W. Draw a line from N through waist line T. S to U is S/s inch. U to X is the same as S to W. Sweep from X to Y by P. Y to Z is i}{ inches. P to Q is the same as M to R. P to 1 is the same as width of back at the top of the neck. The neck gorge is produced by the size of collar worn; in this case 17 collar. From i to 2 is J /z inch less than Yz neck (or 16 on thirds). Square out from 2 to 3. 2 to 3 is yi net neck or collar measure, 17 on thirds. 3 to 4 is Y% inch. 4 to s is 2y inches. G to 6 and 7 to 8 is 2^ inches. Front edge at bottom is i}£ inches out from Y. THE CAPE. The length of cape is obtained by applying the inside sleeve length, 19 inches, from I to 10; sweep for- ward and back from 10, using shoulder point P as pivot; draw a line from K through F, and shape from K to Q, as shown in diagram. The front of cape comes to within 1 inch of the front of the forepart. Both the coat and cape are finished fly front, and button up to the neck. The side pockets are located by coming down y 2 inch more than 7/3 natural waist length. This garment has a turndown military collar, and is drafted as illustrated by shaded collar. Square out and down from A. A to B is 10 inches, half of collar. A to C is 2 inches. B to D is T.y inches. D to E is 2 z y inches. C to F is 2 J4 inches. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 69 PLATE XXX. 7o STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. NEW STYLE INVERNESS COAT. (explanation of PLATE XXXI.) The new style Inverness is drafted by the regular proportions from the following measures: Length to waist, 17 Breast, 40 Full length, 50 Neck, 19 Sleeve length, 19 Height, 5 feet 8 inches. TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 3% inches and B to C is yi breast. A to D is natural waist length and F full length of coat. D to E is Zyi inches (half of natural waist length). Square lines B, C, D and E. C to G is yi and C to H ^ of breast. G to-I is 1 J^ inches. The regular division of breast as used in coat draft can be used. Square up and down from I and up and down from H. I to J is yi breast and J to U is yi inch. D to 1 is yi inch. Draw a line from A through 1 to F for center of back. A to R is yl inch more than }i breast and R to S is % inch. C to M is half of breast measure and M to N is 2^ inches. Square up from N to O and down from N through P to n. to T is yl breast and O to Y is yi inch less than % breast. Shoulderpoint at T is yi inch below line O, X; draw a line from T to J, and make distance from T to V yi inch less than back shoulder, S to U. W is yi below 7. Draw a line from V to W for run of shoulder seam. Y to 4 is yi inch and Y to 18 is 2j£ inches. H to L is yi breast. 1 to 2 is 1 yi inches. Square forward to 8 for depth of scye; the run of scye is from yi inch back of T through L and 8 and up to breast line back of scye at I. Draw a line from X through O to 10 for run of spring (or apply seat measure from E to 15, place this amount at 13 and measure back to 14, one-half of seat, and add 5^ inches, then draw a line from Q through 14). The strain across back that usually appears on this style of coat is obviated by allow- ing the forepart to extend up to breast line I, in- stead of cutting it across on line 2-8. Q to 10 is the same as Q to K. Sweep from 10 to n by T. 11 to 12 is iyl inches. N to 17 and P to 16 is 2yi inches, and from 12 to front edge is yi inch. THE CAPE. H to Z is 19^, being yi inch more than sleeve length. Sweep forward from Z to 20 and back from Z to 31, using point T as pivot; then sweep from 31 to 21, using point X as pivot. J to 22 is }<■ breast. Draw a line from 22 through 2 for run of cape; shape top of cape from 23 through shoulder point at U to 24. 24 is halfway between 7 and W. 25 is 2 inches above I. Sweep from 25 to 23 using Point V as pivot and notch 23 and 25, and the fulness, about 1^ inches, must be between 29 and 30. The opening of cape, point 27, is 5 inches up. Sweep from 27 to 26 and notch these points. The front of cape is yi inch smaller than the fore- part, as per broken line. There is yi inch V taken out of the forepart at neck, but none on the cape. The front of both the coat proper as well as front of the cape is made up with a fly. The cape has five and the coat six buttons on the front; there is a hook and eye at end of collar point 4. The collar is the regular mil- itary style, and covered with velvet drafted as follows: Square lines X, 3, 4. 3 to 4 is 2 inches and 4 to X is length. Square up from X to 6. X to 5 is \yi and 5 to 6 is zyi inches. The width of collar in front is 2^ inches. The pockets are located by coming down from 4 to 9, 2 /i of sleeve length, 19 on J^rds on the square. Finish as represented. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. PLATE XXXI. 7* 72 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. RAGLAN OVERCOAT. (explanation of PLATE XXXII.) In this draft we have a short Raglan overcoat. When drafted by this method there will be plenty of size in the coat without swinging the pattern or inserting extra fullness, as is done when an ordinary coat draft is used. This draft is produced from the proportions of height and width, as follows: Breast, 40 | Height, 5 feet 8 inches. TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 3^4 inches. B to C is y'i breast. A to D is 17 inches (yl of height). D to E is Sy 2 inches {yi of height). E to F is 14}^ inches (making entire length 40 inches). Square lines B, C, D, E and F. C to G is half of breast measure. G to H is 3 inches. C to I is one inch more than y? breast (22 on halves). I to K is yi breast, and I to J is z /s net breast measure (20 on eighths). Square up and down from J and K. L to M and L to N is S/% inch. A to W is yi net breast. W to X is J4 inch. J to Z is i'a breast. Shape back as represented. U to V is 5 inches. Draw a line from Z through V for spring, and hollow the side seam §4 inch at waist line 8. See sleeve on Square up and down from H to P and through T. P to Q is y A inch. Square back from Q to 21. Q to R is one seam less than yl net breast (4% inches). Draw a line from R to M. Q to S is yl inch more than yi breast. R to Y is y& inch less than X to N. H to 13 and O to 12 is 2j( inches. T to 11 is 2 inches. Z to 7 is the same as Z to 6. Sweep from 7 to 9 by R. 9 to 10 is lyi inches. K to 20 is 34 ' ncn more than y$ waist length. The collar is drafted by drawing the break line of lapel from top button at 13 to a point y£ inch forward of R, as at 14. Wherever this line crosses the gorge draw a line from there through shoulder point R to 15 for break of the collar. 15 to 16 is iyl inches and 15 to 17 is i}£ inches. The width of lapel and collar at notch is 1^ inches. The back notch for sleeve at point 18 is iV breast down from L, and the front notch at 19 is ^ inch up from point K. This completes the regular overcoat draft. For the Raglan coat the shoulders and back are cut off as per shaded portion. The amount cut off must be according to style and fancy. On the accompanying draft the distance from R to 23 is S/% inch, and from N to 21 is xyl inches. next page. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 73 PLATE XXXII. 74 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. THE RAGLAN SLEEVE. (explanation of plate xxxiii ) TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 12 breast. A to C is % breast, and C to D is % inch. D to J is length of sleeve, i8j^ inches. I is half way between D and J. Square lines B, C, D, I and J. C to F is half inch less than j^ breast. G is half way between C and F. Square up from G to H and draw a line from H to C. Square down from E to P. P to Q is inch. Lay corner of square on J, let long arm rest on G, and square across from J to S. J to S is 7j4 inches. Draw a line from Q to S. D to M and J to O is -Vg inch. Draw broken line (which indicates the undersleeve) from M to O. D to L and J to N is 5^ inch. Shape inside of top sleeve from L through K to N. Shape top of sleeve from C through H to F. F to R is i% inches. Shape undersleeve as per broken lines, and the regular coat sleeve draft is complete. To cut a Raglan sleeve, square up lines from E to T and A to U, on sleeve draft; then measure back of the coat from sleeve notch, 18, through 21 and 20 to x. Apply this same length on sleeve from E to T and add Y^ inch for fulness. Next, measure the front shoulder from notch at 19 through 25 and 24 up to R. Apply this length on the sleeve draft from C to U and add i}( inches for fulness. Then sweep from U to V by C, and from T to V by E. Where these two sweeps cross at V is the top of sleeve. Next, in order to get the proper shape of the top of sleeve, I take the two pieces cut off the shoulder and place them in position on top of sleevehead, as indicated by shaded portion, letting it overlap the top sleeve two seams as at H. Then shape from F through Y to V, as per shaded part. By shaping the front part of the sleeve add *4 inch or two seams at W and X, running into the sleeve- head just above point C. This completes the Raglan sleeve. PLATE XXXIII. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 75 SLEEVES. In order to produce the correct size of sleeve to fit the armscye the sleeve must be cut by the size of the scye. First measure the size of scye, then take a notch on the back of coat pattern for the outside seam of sleeve, then make a mark on forepart for the front center of sleeve. The front notch for the sleeve on the coat is Y% inch up from the breast line, and the back notch is % breast up from bottom of scye line, or down S. breast from line top of shoulder. This last point only holds good where the distance from K to i on the coat is yi breast. Therefore the better way is to go up ^ breast from breast line to locate the back notch. The sleeve is drafted by the breast measure in the following manner: If the size of scye is 17, the sleeve is drafted by 36 breast; always take the actual size of scye, to this add one inch which corre- sponds with half of breast measure, T7 scye, add 1 inch making it 18, half of 36 breast; cut sleeve by 36 proportion. 18 scye, add 1 inch making it 19; cut sleeve by 38 breast. 21 scye add 1 inch making it 22; cut 44 size sleeve. Always add one inch to scye measure and multiply the amount by two to find the size of breast to cut the sleeve by. The scye in a normal coat in all sizes will be one inch less than half of breast. The scye in a fat man's coat will be on the average of 2 inches less than half of breast measure in all sizes. The scye in normal coats where client has a muscular arm sometimes measures as much as half of breast. In such cases cut the sleeve by the breast proportion found by adding one inch to actual size of scye. Size 40 sleeve in a 38 coat, or for a fat man 44 sleeve in 46 breast coat. If this principle is adhered to the sleeves will in all cases be the correct size for the scye. First be sure that the armscye is the correct size then cut the sleeve by it. If in a try-on the scye has been made larger or smaller the sleeve must be altered to fit the scye. In locating the back notch on the coat for the sleeve seam, the proportionate breast measure obtained from the size of scye must be used. 7 6 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. THE NORMAL SLEEVE. The black portion of Diagram in Plate xxxiv repre- sents the upper sleeve and the white portion the under sleeve. The inside seam is ^ inch underneath from the front center. The sleeve is drafted from the com- bined size of breast and scye. Breast, 36 | Scye, 17 | Drafting power, 36 Square out and down from A. A to B is ii and A to C yl breast. C to D is yl inch. Square lines B and D. C to F is 5^ inch more than ]/ 2 scye or % inch less than y? breast. G is half way between C and F. Square up and down from G, and draw a line from H to C. D to M is sleeve length, iS^ inches (17 units of height). N is half way between D and M. Lay corner of square at M, let long arm rest on G, and square back from M to Q. M to Q is i>Yi inches, or whatever size is desired. Square down from F to O, and go out from O to P 1 inch. Draw a line from F to P and from P to Q. N to V is 1 inch. Shape inside of sleeve from C through V to M. E to I is Yz inch less than y& breast. K to L is ^ inch. D to T and M to R is % inch. M to S and D to U is 3^ inch. F to V is 1 Va inches. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 77 SLEEVE FOR A LARGER SCYE THAN NORMAL. (explanation of PLATE XXXV.) The diagram represents an ordinary sleeve with the inside seam running one inch under from the front center of sleeve. The draft is produced from the fol- lowing measures: Scye, 20 I Breast, 40 | Drafting power, 42 In this case we have a client with a large muscular arm who requires an extra large scye. Therefore the sleeve must be larger than the proportionate, 20 scye, to this add one inch, making it 21, which is equal to a 42 breast proportion, so the sleeve is drafted by 42 breast. TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is i\ and A to D is ^ breast. D to C is ^ inch. Square lines A, B and C. C to M is inside length of sleeve. N is half way between C and M. Square out from N to L. D to E is % inch more than half of scye, or % inch less than ]/ 2 breast. F ishalf way between D and E. Square up and down from F and draw a line from G to D. U is Y% inch above top line A and V is y% inch out from line D G. Shape top sleeve as represented. Square down from E to K. K to L is ^ inch. Draw a line from E to L. Lay corner of square at M, let long arm rest on F and square across from M to P. M to P is Yz inch more than half the size desired at bottom of sleeve at hand. D to R is one inch and M to Q is one inch. Shape top sleeve. E to J is one inch. C to T and M to S is one inch. I is half way between F and H. Finish as represented. PLATE XXXV. 78 STONE'S NEW -SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. THE SLEEVE FOR A FAT MAN'S COAT. ( EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXXVI.) As every cutter knows, a sleeve drafted by the breast measure proportions will be too large for the scye, as the scye in a fat man's coat is not proportionately as large as in a regular normal size; therefore, it is best to cut the sleeve by the size of the scye, which for a 46 breast fat man's coat will be 2 1 inches. To this add one inch, making it 22, half of 44 breast. So the sleeve is drafted by 44 breast proportion for a 46 size coat. The accompanying sleeve draft is what is termed a half and half sleeve, with the inside seam running under at top and bottom. Drafting Power, PLATE XXXVI. I K 44 'TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is A breast. A to C is y± breast. C to D is J4 inch. C to G is ^ inch less than y 2 breast, or 3^ inch more than J^ scye. H is half way between C and G. Square up and down from H and draw a line from I to C. Y to L is 3/i inch and Z to K is ^4 inch. Square down from D to F. Square down from G to M. D to F is 18}^ inches, inside length of sleeve. E is half way between D and F. Square out from E to M N. M to N is y 2 inch; draw a line from G to N. E to O is 1 y inches. D to R and F to T is S/ 8 inch. Lay corner of square at F, let long arm rest on H and square across from F to P. F to P is 7 inches. F to S and D to Q is S/ 8 inch. W is half way between H and J. G to U is one inch. Shape as represented. For good trade the upper sleeve should be cut a seam higher at G and held on a trifle full to under- sleeve from V to G in order to give it the desired round effect. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 79 VARIATIONS IN SLEEVES. (explanation of PLATE XXXVII.) PLATE XXXVII. The upper portion of the sleeve above line A K will remain the same for all shapes, and will fit the scye for all shapes providing that the lower portion of the sleeve below line A K is swung forward or back ac- cording to the position and attitude of the client for whom we are cutting the coat. If the coat is drafted one inch stooping then the lower portion of the sleeve must be stooped the same amount. This is done by drafting the top portion of the sleeve regular above line A K. Line A B is the normal sleeve. For a figure which is one inch stooping, swing lower portion of the sleeve forward as from B to G, one inch. If for an erect figure swing lower portion of the sleeve back as from B to E. A, B, C and D is the normal sleeve. A, G, C, H is the sleeve for a stooped and A, E, C and F for an erect figure. If we take a regular sleeve pattern and split it through from A to K, open up the pattern and insert one-half of the amount of the stoop at K, the bottom of sleeve will swing over as from B to G. For an erect figure I overlap the sleeve pattern at K one-half of the erect, and the sleeve will swing back as from B to E. The change needed for a stooped figure is more length on the out- side, and for an erect figure less outside length. By . cutting out the three sleeves, normal, stooped and erect, and comparing them by holding the lower portion even, there will be quite a difference in the sleeve top, although the tops are all cut the same. G B E 8o STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. COMBINATION CAPE METHOD. (explanation of PLATE XXXVIII.) From this method may be drafted the % circle military cape or the regular shoulder cape with a seam in the center of the shoulder. The accompanying draft is for a normal figure, 40 breast: TO DRAFT. Draw a straight line from A down to R. Make a point at A. A to B is J^ breast. A to C is y 2 breast. Square back from C to D. C to D is Y% breast. Lay corner of square at point A, letting short arm rest at point D and draw back center line from A to E. A to F is yi breast. A to G is % breast. F to S is yi breast. Square up from S to T. Square lines from G through P to O, and from B through P to N. Draw line from A through point P. Apply length desired from F to E. Sweep from E through N to R, using point T as pivot. C to U is 2j£ inches. Square down from U to V. Draw line from A through W to U. Add from W to X and U to Y, 2 inches, or whatever is desired for lap in front. The full size of the draft will make a fy circle cape, and by splitting it through on the shoulder from T to P and plaiting N over to O as per dotted line 8, 9 P O, we have a Y circle with a V taken out in the shoulder. By cutting pattern as illustrated by the shaded portions the regular close-fitting cape is obtained. THE COLLAR. The collar is drafted by drawing a line from 1 to 2. Square down from 1 to 3. 1 to 3 is 2 inches. Shape from 2 to 3 as illustrated in diagram. 2 to s is 1 yl inches for stand. 5 to 6 is 3 inches. 1 to 4 is 2 inches. Lay corner of square at 3, letting arm rest on point 4 and square down from 3 to 7 for front of collar. VARIATIONS. \ For a client with a long heck add from C to M whatever extra height in neck is desired, square back from N to J and lay corner of square at point A, draw back center line from A to K as indicated by dotted line. For a short neck figure go up from C to L whatever extra amount neck is shorter than proportion. Square out to point H and draw back center line from A to I as indicated by dot and dash line. For stooped or erect figures slide point A up or down on back center line according to whatever stoop or erect is wanted. For a % inch stooped form go down from A to 2, half inch, and for a x / 2 inch erect form go back from A to 3, half inch, then change the neck gorge to conform to the new center point, i. Y inches. For front length, - 26^ inches. One-fourth of 8 3/^ is a fraction less than 3 inches, but for all practical purposes I deduct 3 inches in this case from the front length for the side length which will make the side length 233^ inches. Apply these measures on the pattern, add Y inch to open- ing length and 1 inch to front and side lengths. D to Y is 3 inches and W to X is i% inches. The buttons are spaced back by folding the pattern on line D-E. Make an impression with pencil through front end of button-holes to locate buttons. E to R is Y inch more than Y* waist. P to S is Y inch. S to T is 1 inch more than Y waist (on division). The length of the back from 9 to 6 may be obtained the same as explained in Plate xxxix, or an actual measure can be used. This mode of drafting will produce a well-fitting single-breasted vest; but if double-breasted the front edges will be too long, and although the edges can be worked in enough to make the vest fit smoothly, yet it spoils the pattern of the goods, and the edges are apt to pucker. So by splitting the pattern through the top pocket and overlapping the patterns about 1 inch, as from 17 to 18 in Plate xliii, running out to nothing at 16, we will open up the pocket. Then a V can be cut from the pocket to armscye, as from 13 to 15 and 14 to 22. Or if preferred the V may run out in the side seam same as in fat man's vest. Add a seam at 15 and 22, running out to nothing at 13 and 14 after plait has been laid. Apply front length and reshape forepart as dotted lines at 19 and 20. This has not straightened the shoulder. The front edge has simply been shortened. PLATE XLIII. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 89 PLATE XLII. 90 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. VEST FOR CORPULENT FIGURE. (explanation of plate xliv.) The fat man's vest is drafted the same as a fat man's coat. The yi of extra fat added in front, and its y, of remaining fat will be cared for by applying the waist measure regularly. The draft is produced from the following measurements: Opening, 16 Breast, 46 Length, 20^ Waist, 48 Side length, - 2S% Height, 5 feet 10 inches. TO D RAFT. ' Square out and down from A. A to B is sj4 inches. B to C is ^ breast. A to D is y of height (17^ inches). Square lines B, C, D. C to E is 2 inches more than y breast measure. Square down from E through F. M is halfway between C and E. M to N, and M to O is ^ inch more than y& breast. Square up lines N and O, and square down from M through Q. E to G is yi breast. Square up from G to H. In the proportionate form the waist is 4 inches less than the breast. In this instance the waist is 2 inches more than breast, hence there is 6 inches extra fat to be added to the waist. The normal front center line will run through H E F. Having found the extra fat to be 6 inches, only half of this amount is used, as only half of the vest is drafted. Add 2 /i of the fat in front and Yi in the side, as follows: F to R is 2 inches, or y$ of the fat. Square down from R to 12. For every inch of fat added at front of waist recede y inch at H. In this case H to 10 is y 2 inch. Draw a line from 10 to E, and add from E to it, ^ inch, being yfa inch for every inch of fat added to the front. Shape front cen- ter from 10 through 11, S to 12. R to S is 2 inches, and Q to U is 1 inch. S to 14 is 1 inch more than y> waist. D to T is y inch. T to 13 is 1 inch more than y 2 waist. Draw a line from 10 to B. 10 to I is y% breast. Draw a line from I to J. A to K is y inch more than y breast. K to L is sy inch. Draw a line from L to J. Shape back shoulder from L to J. A to 1 and L to 2 is y inch. J to 3 is 1 inch. Point 5 is 1 ^ inches back from line J M. M to 6 is y inch. I to 8 is the same as 2 to 3. to P is y breast. 1 to 17 is the same as 1 to 2. Apply length of opening from 17 to V, and add y inch for seams. Then apply front length to W, and add 1 inch for seams. Apply side length to X, and add 1 inch for seams and y inch for V taken out in pocket, as at 14. From I to 9 is y% inch. Square back from X to Y. Point Z is half way between D and Y. Shape as represent^. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 9i PLATE^XLIV. 92 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. DOUBLE=BREASTED VEST FOR CORPULENT FIGURE. (explanation of plate xlv.) The double-breasted vest is drafted the same as the single-breasted vest. The draft is produced from the following measurements: 46 48 Opening, 16 Breast Length, 29 Waist, Side length, 25 Height, 5 feet 8-inches. to draft. Square out and down from A. A to B is 3% inches. B to C is Yi breast. A to D is ^ of height (17 inches). Square lines B, C, D. C to E is 2 inches more than y breast measure. Square down from E through F. M is half way between C and E. Square up and down from E. M to N, and M to O is y inch more than Y& breast. Square up lines N and O, and square down from M through Q. G to R is }i breast. F to H is 2 inches and Q to V is 1 inch. In the proportionate form the waist is 4 inches less than the breast. In this instance the waist is 2 inches more than breast, hence there is 6 inches extra fat to be added to the waist. The normal front center line will run through R, E, F. Having found the extra fat to be 6 inches, only half of this amount is used, as only half of the vest is drafted. Add fi of the fat in front and Yi in the side, as follows: H to I is 2 inches, or y% of the fat. Square down from I to J. For every inch of fat added at front of waist recede Y\ inch at R. In this case R to S is J4 inch. Draw a line from S to E, and go forward at E y inch, being y inch for every inch of fat added to the front. Shape front center from S through Y inch forward at E, and y inch back at I down to J. F to H is 2 inches, and Q to V is 1 inch. Draw a line from S to B. S to T is y breast. Draw a line from T to U. A to K is y inch more than y breast. K to L is y§ inch. Draw a line from L to U. A to 1 and L to 2 is J^ inch. U to 3 is 1 inch. 4 to s is i J Y inches. M to 6 is Y inch. T to 8 is the same as 2 to 3. ~ O to P is % breast. T to 18 is the same as 1 to 2. Apply length of opening from 18 to 10, and add y inch for seams. Then apply front length to J, and add 1 inch for seams. Apply side length to W, and add 1 inch for seams and y inch for V taken out in pocket, as at 15. From T to 9 is y% inch. Square back from X to Y. Point Z is half way between D and Y. D to 16 is }4 inch. 16 to 17 is one inch more than y waist. I to 15 is one inch more than y waist. The lapel is drafted by drawing a line from 10 through 14 to 11. II to 12 is 2 inches and 14 to 13 is 3 inches. The forepart extends to crease edge of collar and the collar is laid on flat. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 93 PLATE XLV. 94 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. THEORIZING. If a system of cutting is not geometrically correct it is practically wrong; if it cannot be applied in a scientific manner to forms that are always varying and never in proportion, it is useless. Whether the prin- ciples laid down in this work will answer such requirements, the student has doubtless decided for himself. VARIATIONS IN THE SLOPE OF THE SHOULDER. ( EXPLANATION OF PLATE XLVI. ) Variations in the slope of the shoulder are illustrated in Plate xlvi, Diagram i. Line M N R is the center of the back. Line G Q is the center of the front, and O P is the side center. Line N O G is what is known as the breast line. It will be remembered that half of the breast measure is divided into 8 equal parts — 3 for the back, 2 for the side and 3 for the front. The waist being smaller than the breast the amount must be cut out or suppressed at S and T. If the waist is larger than proportion, or even larger than breast, the largest amount should be added at Q and the smallest amount at S. If the lines of the neck and back were continued up until they meet in the neck, we would have a cylinder of the body capped with a cone, the apex of the cone being at the top of the neck toward the back. In the upper portion of the cylindrical part of the body is the much disputed quantity of what we call the scye (the major dorsal length), as from N to M or A to O. The scye should be regulated according to the size of the arm, and the safest method is to use the diameter of the scye, or yi scye measure plus }$ inch from N to M. If all lines run together, as at D, and the front, back and shoulders are closed, we have formed the cone. The closing points of the cone extend from the top of the shoulders to the top of the neck (the minor dorsal length), as from M to D and B to D. But before going further we must more fully consider the minor dorsal length, which may vary from 3 to 5 inches in different figures. If we have a very square-shouldered figure to cut for, the minor dorsal length becomes shorter, as from M to F and B to F. On the other hand, if the shoulders are low or the neck very long this distance would be longer, as from M to E and B to E, thus giving a different angle to the shoulder. As an illustration, suppose the pattern represented by this diagram to be split open at the side as from O to P. Then suppose the back part is swung around so that point D on the back will rest on point D on the fore- part, using point A as pivot. The back line would then run as line D H. If points F F are swung together in this way, the back center line will run as line F J. If points E E are placed together the back center line will run like E I. Or, let us go to extremes and sup- pose that the top of the neck to be at point L. Put points L L together and we will have L K as back center line. Of course such a case never occurs in cutting, but it facilitates a comparison of the different angles of the shoulders. By using point A as a pivot for all the slopes of the shoulders, the slope has deviated from points 5 5. This is not correct, for the shoulder slope should terminate at points 5 5. After having formed the cone of the shoulder it is an easy matter to take a ring the size of the neck, slip it over the cone, and when it is in place mark around it and cut off the top of the cone. So we have the neck hole, or gorge, and if our subject that we are cutting the coat for has a small neck we must cut a small neck hole, and if a large neck a large hole for the neck. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 95 PLATE XLVI. 96 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. THE NECK GORGE. (explanation of plate xlvii.) Diagram 2 represents a pattern closed in the should- ers, showing where the back sections meet the front sec- tions, as at E F B. The cylindrical portion or body of the coat extends up as far as E G and E H. The sec- tions bounded by lines EGH and B are the cone-shaped portions. If the distance from B to G and B to H can be obtained by a measure we can begin to draft the whole coat from the center of the cone, just at the top of the neck. Then we can commence drafting by draw- ing line B U. B to G is the minor dorsal length, from G to E width of shoulder. Then using E as a pivot we draw a sweeping line from G to H, and using B as pivot sweep from G to H. Where these two sweeping lines meet is point H. Then if a line is drawn from B through H and from H to E we have the cone. In order to have a hole for the neck, we have to cut the top off this cone for the gorge. The head is set on the body somewhat forward, consequently if we were to use point B as a center the result would be disastrous as far as the fit is concerned. So we must advance, or slide down the center of the neck to point Q. The exact distance from B to Q is regulated by the position or attitude of the customer. If his figure is stooped the distance will be more, and if "erect less. As only three-fourths of the circle is used to form the neck, it requires a larger circle for' a sloping shoulder and a smaller one for a square shoulder to obtain the same size neck gorge. The square shoulder takes up more and the sloping shoulder less degrees of the circle; hence the theory of using a circle will not always prove correct, as the same degree of a circle will not suffice for all shapes. As soon as we have lengthened or shortened the neck or shoulder slope we have changed the degree of the angle. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 97 PLATE XLV1I. 2 o I I 120 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. HOW TO CUT LOOSE-FITTING COATS. (explanation of plate lix.) A regular draft of an overcoat will produce a med- ium large and easy garment, but without being full enough or having bell enough for high-class trade. This may be obtained by cutting the coat as shown in Plate xxv, pages 58-59. It may also be produced in the manner herewith illustrated, which explains more fully the loose-fitting effect. When cutting the cloth mark off the back as from A, Y, X, S and Q to C. Then place your finger at A, hold the pattern there and swing it forward as from C B 1 inch, and finish marking out the back. Mark off the front of the forepart from A, W, V and R to D. Place the pivot at A and swing the forepart back as from D to E, 2 inches. Then finish marking out the forepart. By this method we have retained the regular size of the coat around the neck and armscye, and have in- serted the extra fullness in the front and back as at F and G. If an extra large coat is wanted insert as much as 2 inches in the back from B to C, and 4 inches in the forepart from D to E. By swinging the back out at the bottom it gets too wide, so it is necessary to take off from O to P half of the amount added or inserted from B to C, and add the same amount to the fore- part, as per dotted lines. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 121 PLATE LIX. THE SUPERLATIVE WORKS ON CUTTING BY CHAS. J. STONE ^ ' 'A heart to conceive, a head to contrive, and a hand to execute. " The art of cutting is too highly developed, it is too intricate, demands too exact a knowledge of the cutter to be mastered without deep study and long practice. In fact, a library has be- come indispensable to the modern cutter ; no matter how experienced a cutter may be, no matter how skillful or how learned in his art, he may attain a deeper knowledge and wider comprehension of cutting by the proper study of the best books. This is a want supplied by The Superlative Works on Cutting as by none others. The reason for this is that their author brings to his work a natural genius supplemented by long and varied experience, indefatigable study and thorough investigation. The fact that cutters realize the truth of this matter is attested by the large and constantly increasing sales of Mr Stone's works. The complete list consists of : Stone's New Superlative Coat and Vest System $10.00 Stone's New Short Measure Coat and Vest System 10.00 Stone's Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments.. 10.00 Stone's Superlative Coat and Vest System 5.00 Stone's New Superlative Trousers System, in preparation 7-00 Stone's Superlative Trousers System 5.00 Stone's Superlative Shirt and Drawer System 3.00 Stone's Superlative Corset Grades, 14 sizes 3.00 SPECIAL OFFER. — We will sell any two of our $10.00 works for $15.00 ; or the New Su- perlative or New Short Measure System, together with our New Superlative Trousers System for $15.00. Any of these works will be sent prepaid by return mail on receipt of price. No book will be sent C. O. D. Send P. O. or Express Money Order or Chicago Exchange. Address CHAS. J. STONE CO. 1 94 and 1 96 La Salle Street CHIGAGO, ILL. THE CHAS. J. STONE CO . <—--*> CUTTING SCHOOL 194=196 La Salle St., CHICAGO TKRMS FOR INSTRUCTION TO BE PAID IN ADVANCE For a complete course of Instruction (to Practical Tailors) in Gentlemen's Garment Cutting (time unlimited) $100 00 Goat System, alone , 50 00 Vest System, aloDe 25 00 Trouser System, alone 25 00 Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Gai ters , 50 00 Grading 50 00 Boys and Children ... 100 00 Shirts ". 15 00 Drawers 15 00 LADIES' CUTTiNU For complete course of Ladies' Garments... , $100 00 Ladies' Basques, Jackets and all Over Garments 50 00 Ladies' Basque, Bodice, Sleeves and Skirts 25 00 PRACTICAL CUTTERS Desiring to change their Systems, limited to twelve days, Coats, Vests and Trousers $ 50 00 Price to Cutters for Coat System, alone 30 00 " " Trouser System, alone 15 00 " Vest System, alone 15 00 " " Fancy Garments, Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Over Gaiters 25 00 PRACTICAL CUTTERS For special knd private instruction in measuring, drafting, or explaining points in Coats, Vests, Trousers or Grading, Cutting by Block Patterns, or Ladies' Cutting, occupying from one hour to one day $5 00 to $25 00 ^22S~Thls is a Special Feature. Address, CHAS. J. STONE, Private Office, The Chas. J. Stone Co. Cutting School, CHICAGO, ILL. Stone's Reliable Block Patterns These Patterns are strictly up-to-date in styie and outline. They are tested Patterns which we have beer> using for years, and which are used by the best Tailors all over the Country. PATTERNS EOR MEN'S GARMENTS. S. B. Frock Coat, any size, each, S. B. Sack Coat, any size, each, . D. B. Sack Coat, any size, each, D. B. Frock Coat, any size, each, Dress Coats, any size, each, . S. B. Over Coat, any size, each, . D. B. Over Coat, any size, each, Raglan Over Coat, any size, each, Inverness Over Coat, any size, each Paletots and Paddocks, any size, each, S. B. Vests, any size, each, Dress Vest, any size, each, D. B. Vest, any size, each, Trousers, any size, each, Riding Breeches, Riding Leggins, Bicycle Pants, Plain, . Bicycle Pants, with Cuffs, $1.00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43, 1. 00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43, 1. 00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43, 1.25 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43, 1.25 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43, 1.50 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43, 1.50 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43, 2.00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43, 2.00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43, 2.00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43, .75 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43, 1. 00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43, i. 00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43, .75 Full Set, in Sizes 30 to 42, Waist, 1.25 Clerical Coats, each, . .75 Knight Templar Coats, each, .75 Hoods, each, . 1. 00 $10.00 10.00 10.00 12.00 12. CO 13.00 13.00 16. CO 16.00 16.00 7.00 8.00 8.00 9.00 1-25 1.25 .50 Capes, each, Cutters' Combination Set of Patterns, Complete Outfit for $40.00. PHces of Patterns for Boys and Children Furnished en Appiicalicr. For Special Patterns the following measures are necessary for men's garments: The breast measure for Overcoats, which should be given as taken over the vest, and unless it is especially stated that it is taken over the coat, it will be so used. The measures necessary for all undercoats to order are: Length of coat, length of sleeve, breast, waist, hip and seat measures (the hip measure to be taken around the form where the waist seam is located). This measure is of vast importance for all skirt coats. Give height of ^customer and description, concise as possible, of his figure. For Vest and Trousers the usual measures. PATTERNS POR LADIES' GARMENTS. SIZE EACH FULL SET SIZE EACH FULL SET Basque, Bust 28-4O $1.00 $I0.O0 Divided Riding Skirt, . . Waist 20-32 $1.50 $IO.OO Jackets, any style, " 28-4O I. 00 10.00 Bicycle Skirts, ' ' 20-32 • 75 7.50 D. B. Reefer, 28-4O I .00 10.00 Riding Breeches, 20-32 ■ 75 7.50 Cutaway Coats, " 28-4O I. 00 10.00 Leggins, . ■25 2.50 D. B. Frock, " 28-4O 1.25 12.00 Caps, . 6-7 ■5° - 3-00 D. B. Ulster, 1 ' 28-4O I.25 12.00 Golf Capes, . Bust, 28-40 • 75 7.50 Bicycle Coats , 28-4O I. 00 10.00 Double Capes, " 28-40 1. 00 10.00 D. B. Vest, " 28-4O ■ 50 5.00 Three-Decker Capes, . " 28-40 1. 00 10.00 Costume Skirt, . Waist, 20-32 ■75 7-5° Single Sleeves, 28-40 ■50 5.00 Riding Skirt, " 20-32 i-5° 10.00 All these Patterns Cut to Order, Single or in Sets, at Regular Prices. Measures necessary for ladies' garments: Length of waist and full length of garment; the underarm length from armscye to small of waist; the front length from center of back at neck to largest part of bust and down to waist in front. Length of sleeve should be taken with a square under the arm to wrist. Take the size of sleeve at elbow and at hand. Take bust meas- ure easy and waist snug, and hip easy. If the garment is to button up to the neck, the size of neck must be given. For skirts, take front, side and back lengths and waist, also hip measure. In ordering skirt patterns, state what width goods is to be used, as the gores must be cut accordingly. All orders for Patterns must be accompanied by cash remittance of at least 50% of the amount ordered to receive attention. All orders executed promptly. Address The Chas. J. Stone Co., 1 94- i 96 La Salle St., Chicago. Tailors' Squares ^ Measures We carry a Complete Line of Squares, Measures, Etc , the Best in the Market, and sell them at most reasonable rates. PATENT FOLDING SQUARE (The Illustration shows the Square Open and Closed.) SQUARES Boxwood, 16x24, " 14x24, " 12x24, Maplewood, 14x24, " 12x24, . Patent Folding, Boxwood, Stone's Measuring Squares, brass attachment, Boxwood, 6x10 (folding), . . Maplewood, 6x10 (not folding), Sliding Arm (Glencross), Trousers, (Add 25 Cents on all Squares and $1 75 I 5° I 25 I 10 I 00 2 75 , 2 5° I 5° 75 I 75 80 STICKS, ETC. 5-4 Sticks, beveled and jointed, $1 5° 5-4 Sticks, beveled edge, 70 Yard Sticks, beveled edge, 45 " " straight edge (thin cap), . 3° " " " " (thick cap), 25 24-inch Sticks, " " (bench rule), 25 Curved Sticks, 35 Tape Measures, finest quality, each, 20 " " good " " 15 Patent Crotch Measures, 25 Centimeter Measures, 25 Sticks for Packing and Shipping.) In ordering Squares, be sure to state whether you want the division of 3rds or 4ths on the long arm. Send in your orders with the money, and any article ordered will be sent by return express. No goods sent C. O. D. unless one-half of the price accompanies the order. To insure safe delivery of remittance send Post Office, Money or Express Order. Address all orders to The Chas. J. Stone Co. 194-196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO Cutters' andTailors' Shears We sell the well known Heinisch Shears, Trimmers, Etc , at reasonable prices. None better can be obtained, the best cannot be bought cheaper. Nickel-plated Shears, extra, . $2 00 Left-handed Shears, extra, $1 00 to 2 00 Nickel-plated Trimmers, extra, . 1 50 Left-handed Trimmers, extra, . 50 HEINISCH'S CELEBRATED SHEARS No. 3 Full length, 12 inches, ; apanned handles, #3 25 3^ Full length, 121^ inches, apanned handles, 3 5° 4 Full length, 12^4 inches, ; apanned handles, 4 25 4^ Full length, 13 inches, apanned handles, 4 5° 6 Full length, 13^ inches, apanned handles, 6 5° 7 Full length, 14 inches, apanned handles, 7 5° 8 Full length, 14^ inches, apanned handles, 8 25 9 Full length, 14^ inches, apanned handles, 9 00 TO Full length, 153^ inches, apanned handles, 10 00 HEINISCH'S BENT TRIMMERS Full length, Full length, Full length, Full length, Full length, Full length, Full length, Full length, Full length, 7 inches, 7j^ inches, 8 inches, 8*4 inches, 9 inches, inches, inches, inches, inches, apanned apanned apanned apanned apanned apanned apanned apanned apanned handles, handles, handles, handles, handles, handles, handles, handles, handles, $0 60 65 70 80 90 1 10 1 2 S 1 5° 1 7S HEINISCH'S TAILORS' POINTS Full length, 5 inches, japanned handles, Full length, 5^ inches, japanned handles, Full length, 6 inches, japanned handles, 50 40 BAUER'S PATENT REVOLVING BUTTONHOLE CUTTER 5° CUTS ANY SIZE BUTTONHOLE 60 Price, per pair, net, $1 75 All orders will be promptly attended to. To insure safe delivery, send P. O. , Money or Express Order. Address, The Chas. J. Stone Co. 194=196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO T /. NQWORMB)