MBfflMIIIWMllllH i ■HHUH wSSmw e# EraHEBSI HI ■ n HB9SI !*r'!r Bra KfiSfl D ■hBhH Pi ■■■i ■VM. >•;«•. ., . ■ ■■■mi i ■■■ 1 M H 111$ II ■HI ■■ 19 BB m H ii bbS MM n I HI ■ nS H BSfixs ■HnHm ■HHH EH ■Hi mmuMM una ,V $% ■ W A* .3 ,-S v .< "% V* *> * H I V* x. ' • - '°, » OH© - O '>- V c ^0^ W A W x°^. v n "3>«£ c> ^ IIP -~ W^' '■?/> = V> ^ v^ ^ ^ ,•0' % ^ v o c, ^ ^ - x ^. ^ v. J", *> **' ^ : ; W v-> , '-o- # x \>' "V- ft \ 00 - • * <5 i. / V. c> #' > ^ REPORT OF AN EXPEDITION TO iw IN THE Territory of Alaska, IN THE YEAR 1885, "FOR THE PURPOSE OF OBTAINING ALL INFORMATION WHICH WILL BE VALUABLE AND IMPORTANT, ESPECIALLY TO THE MILITARY BRANCH OF THE GOVERNMENT." MADE UNDER THE DIRECTION OF General NELSON A. MILES, Commanding the Department of the Columbia, BY LIEUT. HENRY T. ALLEN, Second United States Cavalry. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT P I(lNTlNU*Or?JCE, 1887. \X b \ SEP IS iyu6 D.ofQ, cT- ^ *©. CONTENTS. CORRESPONDENCE AND INTRODUCTION. Page. Correspondence , 9 Letter of the Secretary of War transmitting report to the United States Senate — Special Orders No. 16, authorizing the expedition — Let- ter of instructions — Letter of Lientenant Allen transmitting his report to the Adjutant-General of the Array. Introduction 15 Part I.— HISTORICAL. Copper River , 19 Previous knowledge of — Nuchek — Inaccuracy of early maps — Site of odindtschka — River discovered in 1781 — Expeditions up — Sere- berinikoff, 1848 — His farthest north — Itinerary — Mouth of Tez- lina River — Lake Plaveznie — Translation of narrative — Massa- cres of Russians — Coast pilot — Inaccuracies — No whites on Chit- tyna River — Mr. Holt on Copper River, 1882 — Lieutenant Aber- crombie, 1884 — Extract from his report — John Bremner. Tanana River 24 History easily summed — Extract from Raymond — Extract from Dall — Reason for erection of post — Murder of Mrs. Bean — Its result — Rev. Mr. Simms on Tanana, 1882 — Miners on same — Extracts from Schwatka — Information from Mr. Harper — Conclusion. Koyukuk River 26 Saint Michael's Island (Cape Stephens) — Initial point of expeditions — That of Glasanoff — Lieutenant Rosenberg — Malakoff — Others — Lieutenant Zagoskin — Ascends Koyukuk, 1843 — Extract from " History of Alaska" — Comment — Dall's description — Western Union Telegraph expedition — Fur traders — River according uo Raymond and Schwatka. Part II.— NARRATIVE. Portland, Oregon, to Nuchek, Alaska 31 Start for Sitka, January 29, 1885— Points touched en route— Pur- chases—Arrival at Sitka— No transportation to Nuchek— Agreement with Leo — Difficulties — Report to headquarters — Preparations — Return of Idaho — Orders to Pin tit — Nuchek, March 19 — The town — Copper River natives — Inaccuracy of statements of natives — Arrangements for ascent of Copper River — More difficulties — Obedience of natives to trader — Char- acter of transportation — Employment of Johnson. 3 / 6 CONTENTS. Page. NUKLUKYET TO NlTLATO AND RETURN 89 R iting watch — Run of salmon, July 4 — An apology — Start for steamboats — Pass the Melozikakat River — Nowikakat River — Frequent settlements — The Nulatoes — "New Racket" and "Yukon" — Alaska Commercial Company — Traders — Stations abandoned — Demoosky and Antoosky — Trouble in the future- Scurvy — Employment of natives. KoYUKUK River t ..... . 93 Niikliikyet to Konootend River : Usual difficulties — Disposition made of party — Routes — Our choice and departure — Mosquitoes — Sand flies — The trail — A fog — Quartz— Melozikakat and Tozikakat Rivers— Timber— Swamps— Trailing by natives — Tozikakat trail reached — Our longest march — Height of Yukon Hills — Lake Tatatontly — Our " wicky- up " — Konootena River, August 3, 1885 — Distance — Barefooted. Konootend to Pickett River : The Koyukuk — Canoes and their propulsion — Changes in stage of water — Allenkakat River — Untlatlotly — Holoatna River — Mammoth bone — Cache — Mount Cone — Nohoolchintna tribu- taries — Dogs disposed of — Moore Island— Snow-capped mount- ains — Beck's Hills — Graves — Ascheeshna or Fickett River — Highest point of Koyukuk — Latitude 67° 16'. Fickett River to HuggirCs Island : Mount Lookout — Courses — Koyukuk and Fickett River as seen from it — A Mahlemute— A mother and child — Konootena again — Waite's Island — Red Mount — Water fowls— Huggin's Island — x Batzakakat. Huggin's Island to Koteelkdkat River : An encampment — Ice banks — Hogatzakakat River — Quartz veins — Mahlemute family — Treat's Island — Dakliakakat River — Route for shipwrecked whalers — Pyramidal peak, August 16 — Camp of seventeen souls — McQuisten Island — Hussliakakat River — Cawtaskakat River — Doggetlooskat River — Red Shirt's vil- lage — Colwell Bend — West's Island. Koteelkdkat to Niddto : River — Station — Zagoskin's farthest north — Nulato Bend — Coal beds — Koyukuk Mount — Yukon Island — Steamboat had passed down — Stratification — Nulato. Nulato to Saint Michael's 109 Preparations for running down the Yukon — Start — Dandy, the murderer — Khaltat's (Khaltag's) village — Returning messen- ger — Conspiracy among natives — Autokakat River — Begin the portage — The trail — The sea sighted — Ulukuk — Catamaran — Native village — Tub of berries — Two villages — Unalaklik — A baidarra, August 29 — Start for Saint Michael's — On board for San Francisco, September 5 — Mr. Lorentz. CONTENTS, Part III.— MAPS AND TABLES OF DISTANCES. Page. Maps H? Previous — Accompanying — Inaccuracy — Polyconic projections — Cen- tral meridian — Longitude — Limits of Copper, Tanana, and Koyukuk Rivers— Volumes— Charts III and IV— General Chart- work of Lieutenant Cantwell and Assistant Engineer McLen- egan. Tables 120 Table of distances of the Copper and Chittyna Rivers— Table of dis- tances of Tanana River — Table of distances of Koyukuk River — Table of distances along the Yukon River and the summer route to Saint Michael's. Part IV.— NATIVES, Atnatanas 127 General description — Number of children — Condition of teeth — Ages — Sagacity — Tribal names — Number seen — Nicolai — Lie- bigstag — Conaguanta — Batzulneta — History — Excavations — Territory — Vegetable products — Animal foods — Drink — Medi- cines — Houses, summer, winter, and bath — Luxuries — Cook- ing utensils — Clothing — Ornamentation — Hair — Unit of meas- urement — Medium of exchange — Bows and arrows— Their man- ufacture — Fire-arms — Building tools — Transportation — Dogs — Songs — Dances — Language — Vocabulary — Apache numerals — Marriage and wives — Social organization — Tyones — Shamans — Skillies — Vassals — Graves. Tananatanas 136 Change of characteristics — Designation of — Differences of lan- guage — Tinneh family — Number — Facilities for trading — Ab- sence of salmon — Game fences — Bead-work — Dissimilarity of language and customs — Ability as traders— Comparative immu- nity — Possible military operations — Pack animals — Strategic position. XOYUKUNS 140 Tribal names — Villages — Language — Appearance — Character — Number— Food— Arms— Routes for their traffic— Their educa- tion — Destitution. Or.iER Natives 142 [ngaliks or Kaiyu-Khotana— Scarcity of caribou— Poverty-stricken— Thirteen hundred— Unakhotanas— Shamans— Incantations — Mr. Simms— Industrial education— Recommendations— Na- tives above NukJukyet— Eskimos or Innuits— Mr. Petroff's re- port — Captain ITealy's observations— Numbers — Characteris- tic appearance— Picture— Other natives. 8 CONTENTS* Part V.— OBSERVATIONS Page. Observations on some of the Animals of Alaska < . , 149 Geological Observations • 155 Volcanic Action . . , . t » 155 Glacial and Diluvial Deposits » 156 Minerals 4 153 Part VI.— METEOROLOGICAL. Report 163 Abstract of Journal 167 Tables v 167 CORRESPONDENCE. LETTER OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR. War Department, Washington City, May 6, 1886. The Secretary of War has the honor to transmit to the United States Senate the official report of Lieut. Henry T. Allen, Second Cavalry, of his exploration of the Copper, Tanana. and Koyukuk Rivers of Alaska, in the year 1885, with accompanying maps, pho- tographs, and drawings thereof, the same being transmitted in re- sponse to Senate resolution of the 16th ultimo, as follows: Resolved, That the Secretary of War be, and he is hereby, directed to transmit to the Senate the official report of Lieut. Henry T. Allen, Second United States Cav- alry, of his exploration of the Copper, Tanana, and Koyukuk Rivers of Alaska, in the year 1885, for reference to the Committee on Printing. WM. C. ENDICOTT, Secretary of War, The President pro tempore of the United States Senate. ORDERS. [Special Orders No. 16.] Headquarters Department of the Columbia,' Vancouver Barracks, Wash. Ter., January 27, 1885. By authority of the Lieutenant-General of the Army, conveyed in telegram from Division Headquarters, of the 24th instant, Second Lieut. Henry T. Allen, Second Cavalry, acting aide-de-camp, is au- thorized to make a reconnaissance in Alaska, proceeding up the Cop- per River and down the Tanana River Valley. Letter of instruction will be furnished him for his information and guidance. Lieutenant Allen will be accompanied and assisted by Sergeant Cady Robertson, Troop E, Second Cavalry, and Private Frederick W. Fickett, Signal Corps, ordered to report to him for this pur- pose. 9 10 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. Lieutenant Allen, with his party, will proceed by the February steamer to Sitka, Alaska, at which place he will engage passage by the schooner Leo, or other conveyance, to Nuchek, the nearest prac- tical harbor to the mouth of Copper River. Lieutenant Allen will avail himself of every possible opportunity to report his position and future movements. The Quartermaster's Department will furnish the necessary trans- portation for Lieutenant Allen and party, and the Subsistence De- partment will furnish the necessary subsistence from stores on hand. Lieutenant Allen is appointed acting assistant quartermaster, act- ing commissary of subsistence, and acting ordnance officer of the expedition. Upon completion of the duty contemplated, Lieutenant Allen will return to these headquarters. By command of Major-General Pope: H. CLAY WOOD, Assistant Adjutant-General. Official: H. Clay Wood, Assistant Adjutant- General. INSTRUCTIONS. Headquarters Department of the Columbia, Vancouver Barracks, Wash. Ter., January 27, 1885. Sir: On your return from your journey to Nuchek, near the mouth of Copper River, Alaska, last month you expressed a strong desire to attempt explorations in that territory, and, as you are aware, I telegraphed Brigadier-General Miles, absent in Washington City, of your anxiety and your proposed plan of action. General Miles indicated his assent, and on his recommendation the Lieutenant-General commanding the Army, having read your re- port, has approved and authorized the proposed reconnaissance. I inclose an official copy of Special Orders, No. 16, of this date, directing the movement of yourself and party, and communicate the following instructions, similar in import to those given Lieuten- ants Schwatka and Abercrombie, for your information and guid- ance. In view of the fact that so little is known of the interior of the Territory of Alaska, and that the conflicting interests between the white people and the Indians of that Territory may in the near future result in serious disturbances between the two races, the de- partment commander authorizes you to proceed to that Territory for RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. H the purpose of obtaining all information which will be valuable and important, especially to the military branch of the Government. You will make your objective point that district of country drained by the Copper and Tanana Rivers, and ascertain as far as practica- ble the number, character, and disposition of all natives living in that section of country ; how subdivided into tribes and bands; the district of country they inhabit; their relations to each other, and especially their disposition toward the Russian Government in the past, towards the United States Government in the past and at the present time, and toward the whites who are making their way into that region. You will further examine their modes of life and their means of communication from one part of the country to the other, the amount and kinds of material of war in their possession and from whence obtained. You will further obtain such information as may be practicable as to the character of the country or means of using and sustaining a military force, if one should be needed in that territory. You will examine especially as to the kind and extent of the native grasses, and ascertain if animals ordinarily used in military opera- tions can be subsisted and made of service there ; also ascertain the character of the climate, especially inland, the severity of the win- ters, and any other information which would be important and val- uable to the military service. Let your researches be thorough, and endeavor to complete as far as practicable all desired information in each portion of the country as you advance into the interior, that your work may be resumed hereafter, if deemed necessary, at any point at which you may be compelled by untoward circumstances to abandon it. You will endeavor to impress the natives with the friendly dispo- sition of the Government, and in this connection the importance of opening and maintaining friendly relations with the natives cannot be too strongly impressed upon you and your assistants. In no case will you move in any section of the country where you cannot go without provoking hostilities or inciting the natives to resistance. You are not authorized to exercise any control of affairs in that Territory. Whenever an opportunity occurs you will make full reports to these headquarters, accompanied as far as possible with itineraries, maps, tracings, and field notes of your journey and observations. You will endeavor to reach the mouth of Copper River at least by the first of March, so as to ascend the river by the ice. It is probable that the schooner Leo will, during February, make a trip from Sitka to Nuchek, and it is hoped you will be able to se- cure passage for your party by the Leo, and at the pate you have named — $70 each 12 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. If you are in all respects fortunate and successful, it is possible for you to ascend the Copper River and descend the Tanana, and return in 1885, and this will be your general instruction ; but un- der the peculiar circumstances which will inevitably surround you, much must be left to your discretion and judgment, and therefore regarding your movements after leaving Copper River no definite directions can be given you. You will at all times exercise careful and strict economy in your necessary expenditures. You are authorized, in rejoining these headquarters, after com- pletion of the duties assigned you, to arrange for the transportation of yourself and party to any point on the Pacific coast not south of San Francisco, from which you can communicate with these head- quarters. You will supply yourself with such necessary blanks pertaining to the Quartermaster's, Subsistence, and Ordnance Departments as may be requisite, and the necessary enlistment blanks, muster-out rolls, and discharges. Should you find it necessary, you can enlist B.ve Indian scouts. Maj. De Witt C. Poole, paymaster, has been instructed to transfer to you $2,000, public funds of the Pay Department, as an advance to pay yourself and members of your detachment. You know the conflicting dispatches which have been received in regard to this reconnaissance, and the difficulties the adjutant- general of the department has encountered. All the hesitation in issuing the special order for the movement has arisen from the conflicting instructions received and a firm re- solve not to see you leave on this distant and uncertain expedition without the most ample provision in supplies and public funds to insure your safety, comfort, and the success of the reconnaissance. You now have ample funds; they are to be used for the payment of yourself and party; but so long as you have them you will not suffer from hunger or permit your party to. With best wishes for your success and safe return. By command of Major-General Pope : H. CLAY WOOD, Assistant Adjutant- General Second Lieut. Henry T. Allen, Second Cavalry, Acting Aide-de-Camp, Commanding Expedition to Alaska. RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN, J 3 LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. War Department, Adjutant-General's Office, Washington, April 9, 1886. Sir : I have the honor to transmit herewith, as per orders, the ac- companying report of a reconnaissance on the Copper, Tanana, and Koynkuk Rivers of Alaska, made in the year 1885, together with maps illustrative of the conntry drained by said rivers, as far as the work extended. Rivers and other geographical features actually seen are drawn in full. Previously unmapped information from other sources is in- dicated by dotted lines. The reduction of sextant observations, which depended on a best- grade Howard movement watch, is not as satisfactory as I had hoped to obtain. Having had the benefit of a trip to Alaska before starting on this reconnaissance, I became convinced of the impracticability of carrying a box chronometer, nor have I since had reason to think that it could have withstood the hardships. Had it been carried on the person of any of the party it would have had many submersions in the rivers and jars from unexpected tumbles. The services rendered by my assistants, Sergeant Cady Robertson, Troop E, Second Cavalry, and Private Fred. W. Fickett, United States Signal Corps, throughout the privations and hardships neces- sary to the success of the expedition, were most valuable, as will be seen from the report and records. The prospectors, Peter Johnson and John Bremner, whom I added to the party, the former at Nuchek, the latter at the junction of Cop- per and Chittyna Rivers, rendered most excellent services. I cannot say too much in commendation of the indomitable courage and en- ergy of Mr. Johnson. His zeal and endurance were admirable. I am under obligations to staff officers of the Department of Co- lumbia, who so efficiently supplied the party from their respective de- partments with such necessaries as the conflicting circumstances under which we started would permit. Special acknowledgment is due to Col. H. Clay Wood, adjutant-general of the Department of the Columbia, for his conscientious fostering of the expedition. Ac- knowledgment is also due to Lieut. Commander H. E. Nichols, com- manding Pinta, and officers of that vessel, for courtesies extended the party during the stay in Sitka and during the voyage to Nuchek ; to Mr. Lewis Gerstle, president Alaska Commercial Company, for the privilege granted me in his letter of introduction to the various factors of that company in the Territory, authorizing them to cash checks and render such other assistance as was in their power ; and to these gentlemen at Nuchek, on the Yukon, at St. Michael's, at the Seal Islands, and at Ounalaska. 14 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. The photography of Copper River, other than that obtained from Lientenant Abercrombie, expresses in a poor manner the result of much patience and perseverance under the most trying circum- stances. The plates were necessarily intrusted to natives to be car- ried to the mouth of the river. Recent developments show that their curiosity led them to open the box containing them, thus exposing the plates to the light, and totally injuring all but the few we had developed. Attempt has been made in the detailed report to account for the incompleteness, in many respects, of the information obtained, but the difficulty of obtaining subsistence and transportation, and other unusual disadvantages, will partially account for the many omissions. Delays were impossible on account of scarcity of food and unwilling- ness to rest while ignorant of time required to overcome the obstacles in advance. The loss of the psychrometer by theft of the natives on upper waters of the Tanana, and the injury they inflicted on the aneroid barome- ter, account for the absence of records from these instruments after the middle of June. The U. S. revenue steamer Corwin, after her deeds of daring in the Arctic, anchored off Fort St. Michael's, and gallantly extended us passage to San Francisco, notwithstanding she was crowded with the unfortunate crews of wrecked whalers. I would express my sense of the many kindnesses and courtesies rendered the party by Capt. M. A. Healy, commanding, and all the officers of the Corwin. The great inconveniences these worthy gentlemen submitted to in order to afford us a return demand more than ordinary thanks. x When the party started it was not considered possible to do more than ascend the Copper River, cross the Alaskan Mountains, and descend the Tanana River in one season ; yet verbal authority was obtained to continue the work, in case there was time, or, if it became necessary, to winter in the Territory; and this is the authority for the exploration of the Koyukuk River. It is believed that the maps and information embodied in this report will be valuable to prospectors and others who are now mak- ing their way into the interior of the country, to the geographical world, and to all who are interested in this possession of the United States, about which so little authentic information relative to its interior is known. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, H. T. ALLEN, Second Lieutenant, Second Cavalry. To the Adjutant-General, United States Army. INTRODUCTION. So much lias been written with respect to the Alaskan country in general, its coast resources, peoples and their customs, that the fol- lowing report will be restricted almost entirely to the interior, and especially to the vast extent of country drained by the Copper, Ta- nana, and Koyukuk Rivers, nearly all of which is unknown. To those unacquainted with the extent of our Alaskan possessions, the distances recorded during the explorations would seem exag- gerated. Observation of the accompanying map showing the num- ber of degrees of latitude and longitude covered by the exploration, and a recollection that the area of Alaska is equal to three times that of New England, New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Mary- land taken together, will suffice to account for the seemingly excessive distances. The work is included between the sixtieth and sixty-seventh paral- lels, and between the one hundred and forty-secondth and one hun- dred and sixty-first meridians, and these inclose approximately 240,000 square miles. It is a very remarkable fact that a region under a civilized govern- ment for more than a century should remain so completely unknown as the vast territory drained by the Copper, Tanana, and Koyukuk Rivers, 15 PAET I HISTORICAL 8. Ex. 125 2 17 HISTORICAL COPPER RIVER. The knowledge of Coj>per or Atna River prior to 1884 was limited to Russian records and native reports. The initial point for all expeditions to that river has been Port Eteches (Nuchek) or Hinchinbrook Island, now the trading station of the Alaska Commercial Company, and about 50 miles to the west- ward of the mouth of Copper River. This village was located by Cook in 1776-79; by Chornhoff in 1830; Belcher in 1830-42; Tebenkoff in 1852; and, more recently, by the Coast and Geodetic Survey, which last gives it a latitude of 00° 21' K and longitude of 146° 38' W. From 1788, the year when the first redoubt (odindtschka) was built at the mouth of the river, up to 1847, the explorations were made by men wholly destitute of mathematical knowledge, and the maps con- structed by them were subsequently found to be entirely inaccurate. The odindtschka ("a single redoubt") was located a few miles south of Alaganik (Anahanuk), but at present no traces of it remain. It is probable that a village of two miserable bardbarras, called by the natives " Skatalis," is on the site of the old odindtisclika of the Russians. The mouth of Copper River was discovered by Nagaieff in 1781. In 171)0 there were two expeditions having for their object the ex- ploration of Copper River, one under Tarchanoff, the other under Samoyleff, both of which failed, the latter on account of hostility of Hie natives. In 1708 Partichken, and in 1803 Boyanoff, explored the Copper River for a short distance. In 1819 Klimuosky made some explora- tions in the same direction. In 1843 Gregorieif (Grijorjew of the Germans) renewed the attempt. In 1847 Captain Tebenkoff directed Rufus Sereueriiiikoff", a Creole,* and a graduate of a school of commercial navigation of Saint Peters- burg, to explore the Copper River. *The term Creole, misapplied to mixed races of the Russian- American posses- sions, formerly signified the offspring of a Russian father and native mother. At the present thne there are many so-called Creoles in Alaska, some of whom have a Russian grandfather and an American father. Jn manythe native blood pre- dominates. A former master of the schooner Leo, who had married a Creole of the Aleutian Islands, informed me that there were at that time (1884) only two " pure blood" RuSS'an women in Alaska, 10 20 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. The unfortunate Serdberinikoff, with his assistants, eleven in number, a part at least of whom were Aleuts, were murdered some- where north of the Tleschitina, a river known at the present time by the natives as Tezlina, and such I have called it in my report. No cause or place of his death has ever been definitely assigned, and the meager results of his explorations are known from his par- tially destroyed notes, subsequently given up by the natives. It is true that one of his observations for latitude gave 62° 48' N". , but there is no record of his journey after he had descended the Tezlina and started again up the Copper. The mouth of the Tezlina is in ap- proximate latitude 62° !N". On the 14th of August, 1847, Sereberinikoff arrived at Alaganik, on the most westerly channel of the delta of the Copper River, called by him Anee River. His observation placed this village in latitude 60° 41' 17", while the records show it to be only a few miles above the odindtschka. Lieutenant Abercrombie places it in latitude 00° 21', and the latter has been used by me. Continuously cloudy and stormy weather prevented an observation in this locality during our travels. The following is the gist of Sereberinikoff's notes. The Russian party left Alaganik, intending to row up the river, but meeting a current of nine miles per hour, was compelled to cordell. On the 18th the northernmost end of this channel (the Anee) was reached, some floating ice having been encountered en route. At the upper end of the channel were numerous shallows. On August 2G, eight days after reaching the main stream, the latitude was determined to be 60° 38' 47*. I will here remark that this observation is probably the authority for the very singular po- sition of the mouth of Copper River, as shown on all existing charts prior to that of Lieutenant Abercrombie. It is evident that either the observation is much out, or else the delta mouth of the river has undergone a wonderful change since 1848. I found the course of the river from Alaganik, by following the western channels as much as possible, to be nearly north. I do not doubt that radical changes are being wrought in the delta of the river by the enormous deposits annually carried down, but the one in question seems too great to have been accomplished in a period of thirty-seven years. On September 1 Sereberinikoff's boat struck a hidden rock, and many valuable articles, including his watch, were lost. September 4, his party reached the odindtschka, below the mouth of the Tschichitna (Chittyna), where it wintered. The coldest weather recorded was 40 below zero (Rcamur). May 16, 1848, Sereberinikoff started for the upper river with eleven men, one hundred fish, four poods (thirty-six pounds each) of bis- cuits, four wild sheep, and some tea and sugar, RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. 21 At noon on the 17th the party passed the month of the Chittyna. On the 18th stopped at a settlement of twelve souls, where the in- habitants were suffering fearfully from destitution and hunger, and on the following day it arrived, at a settlement of twelve sonls, six women and six children, the fiye men usually dwelling there having gone to Constantine Redoubt (Nuchek). Here the party was treated to fish-bones, and some roots, and in return gave two pounds of tobacco. On the 20th it reached a deserted settlement, whose inhabitants had left in March for a hunt. On the 2 2d the sheep were all gone and the men put on one fish per day. On the 24th reached mouth of Tezlina, flowing from Lake Plave*z- nie. Men put on one-half fish per day. The Tezlina was found to be shallow, full of stones, and very rapid. On the 25th started on foot to explore Lake Pleveznie, keeping the Tezlina in sight. On the 28th made a halt on a small river and met two families of natives returning from a hunt. Were treated to fresh moose meat, and gave them in turn two pounds of tobacco. Observation for lat- itude gave G2° 8' ll ,r . On the 30th reached the lake ; found two families. At night the natives killed four deer (caribou?), swimming in the lake. Pur- chased one for 135 feet of beads. All of it was at once eaten, together with some dry meat and some small fish. Red fish (salmon, doubt- less) appear in the middle of June. It is said they never go down the river again. Natives of Plave*znie have the same language, same destitution and constant suffering as do those of Copper River. Hunger begins the middle of winter, however abundant the game of the preceding season. The greatest reliance for food is on rabbits, which they snare. June 3, built a baiddrra and passed two days in following around the shores of the lake. The southeastern end of it is near a chain of mountains capped with ice, below the line, of which timber grows. From the west side the lake receives two tributaries, along one of which is the portage to the Bay of Kenai, to make which requires about twelve days. Trees on southern shores only. Latitude of southerly point of lake is 02° 2' 32". Poverty of natives leads to the conclusion that there would be little fur trade. June 5, took leave of the friendly natives and started down the Tezlin f 4in abaidarra; reaching its mouth the following day. Thence up the Copper River. From this time there are no records, save the observation, which gives a latitude of 02° 48' 45*. I have had the above translated from the "Journal of tin 1 Russian Geographical Society," published at St. Petersburg in 1810, now in the Congressional Library, by Mr. S. N. Buynitzi, and have gone 22 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. thus into detail to show that the nomadic habits of the natives, their improvidence, and the annual scarcity of food during the winter months existed forty years ago as well as to-day. The above nar- rative, so far as I know, is all that is of record relative to the Tezlina River and Lake Pleveznie. It partially accounts for the origin of the Midnodskies' present insatiate desire for tobacco. The watch having been lost early in September, 1847, there were no determina- tions of longitude. From Mcolai, one of the most intelligent of the Midnodskies (the name given to the Copper River natives by the Russians), I learned that there had been three massacres of Russians on the Copper River, one above Taral and two below. The one above, probably that of Serdberinikoff, he claims was done by the Tatlatans, or Upper Cop- per River natives, the one near the mouth of the river by coast na- tives, and the one just below Taral by his own people. He was reluctant to talk about the matter, but finally vindicated his people by telling the wrongs inflicted on them by the Russians. His story was as follows : Three Russians and as many sleds drawn by natives were en route to Taral with merchandise. The natives were not allowed to sleep, and were compelled to haul the Russians, who slept on the sleds. At a preconcerted sign the head of each of them was crushed in with an ax. He said he knew nothing about the details of the other massacres, and if he did he would not talk about them. The following is from the Alaska Coast Pilot, part 1, published in 18G9: ■ RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 43 to lie at full length, so our night was passed on our haunches, in a severe storm of snow and rain. At this time we had not learned to sleep "doubled up," as do the natives, and if we had the storm would have prevented it. The result was a night of watching and longing for day, with clothes as thoroughly saturated as though we had slept in the river. The coast natives had, of course, suffered with the rest of us, and were for some time disposed to go south to their friends, rather than north among people whom they feared. We were expecting to find plenty of food — they knew better — at Ta- ral. Finally, all were started over the mass of huge rocks, covered with snow, most miserable for sleds, and worse for the motive power drawing them. At times it became necessary to take off the snow- shoes ; then the probability of going down between large rocks every few steps could be readily determined. After an hour or two of this kind of work it was found necessary to make a portage of 400 yards along the west side of the rocks, next to the main channel, after which we again began sledding, and were soon without Abercrombie Canon, and to our great delight the weather was partly clear. All were encouraged and worked with renewed zeal. For the first 4 miles the course was due east, next 2 E1STE. next NE., and we were at a second canon or narrows, called by me Baird Canon, in honor of Prof. S. F. Baird, of the Smithsonian Institute. We camped at this canon on west side of river, near a pile of drift-wood, on snow 4 feet deep. At sunset a heavy snow- storm set in, which by morning had completely covered us. From this time forward our sleeping-bags, of linen, made waterproof, were very useful. Their length was 6-J- feet, and their circumfer- ence suffic- nt not to cramp the arms and body. There were holes at the top for the introduction of a gathering string. For use the blankets were adjusted in the bags, then the feet were inserted be- tween the proper folds, and the body shoved in. Generally a pon- cho was pulled over the head of the "bed" in place of closing the bag. The 4th of April was the first day that we caught a glimpse of the sun from the time of our departure from Nuchek, March 20, and the first day or night that was free from a precipitation in some form. The glaciers mark the change of climate between coast and in- :erior. We hailed the sun with joy, not alone on account of personal comfort, but through a desire to secure observations for position, 'he camp at Baird's Canon was at the foot of a vegetation-covei< dicate the work of man rather than that of nature. At the camp a single woman was the only inhabitant, her husband having gone on a hunt. Camp No. 3, 7 miles farther up the river, four of these lying In direction W. ^° N., three OW., was just above Konsina Creek, a small stream emptying on the west side. Camp No. 4 found us at Liebigstag's settlement, the most populous one yet met, numbering 30, including men, women, and children. Liebigstag, the Tyone of this settlement, is nearly an equal in rank to Nicolai, though not nearly such a diplomat. A. part of his con- stituency is on the flat on the east bank, just above the torrent stream flowing into the river almost directly from the northern base of Mount Wrangell. His summer headquarters was on the west bank, on the very edge of a bluff 000 feet high, as determined by a barometer. From our camp on the flat we could barely hear the reports of guns fired as a salute to us. Our approach had been heralded by two men whom we had met a number of miles down the river. These acknowl- edged allegiance to Liebigstag, and considered it their duty to im- mediately change their plans, return, and inform their sovereign of such a previously unknown event. Sereberinikoff possessed the most Caucasian blood of any one that had ever visited these regions. We were invited to Liebigstag's house on the bluff. To cross and recross the river here was no easy task, yet Fickett and myself, with Nicolai RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 59 and several natives, attended the feast, and a bountiful one it was. Never have I known lines of caste to be so rigidly drawn as with these people. I was considered the chief, and in ascending the bluff, natives had come down to escort us up and carry my bed. Two half- grown boys preceded to the summit, then took station on each side of the trail till I had passed between them and had entered the spruce-bough tepee. There I found all allotted places according to rank ; Liebigstag and blood relatives on the right side, "retainers to camp " on the left. Places on his left and right respectively were reserved for Nicolai and myself. Fickett was assigned a place with the -oi polloi. I did not have time nor was it in my instructions to attempt any reform in their social or political customs: yet had we been less de- pendent on the natives I should certainly have let them understand that the ablest worker was the chief est man, rather than continually make presents to the recognized tyones. On one occasion, when I attempted to snub a lazy chief by making a much-prized present to one of his vassals, and a splended worker, rather than to himself, he pocketed the article and took all credit to himself for possessing so valuable a worker. These tyones barely condescended to consider me their equal, and on no occasion would they consider my men as such. They were reluctant to believe that any one who would pull on the rope of a boat, carry a pack, or take equal foot with his men could be a tyone. At this camp we obtained a considerable quantity of meat and quite a following of natives to pull on the boat and hunt. From Liebigstag's camp is one of the finest views I have ever seen. The mountains to the east and north of the river are grand. The most southerly of the prominent peaks is due east, and has been called by me Mount Blackburn, in honor of Hon. J. C. S. Black- burn, of Kentucky. Its elevation above the river is about 12,500 feet. The bearing of Mount Wrangell from same is NE. V E., and has an elevation of about 17,500 feet. The next peak above, called by me Mount Tillman, in honor of Prof. S. E. Tillman, of the United States Military Academy, is about 16, GOO feet high, and probably ranks third in height among the peaks of North America. The next is Mount Drum, 13,000 feet above the sea-level, called in honor of the Adjutant-General of the Army. The last prominent peak, barely visible from the same point, has been called Mount Sanford, and is 12,500 feet in height. The determinations of the heights of these peaks did not involve the rotundity of the earth, but simply the solu- tion of plane triangles, hence cannot be accurate. Frequent com] >ass bearings of them, taken as we ascended the river, also the verticil angles with the sextant from the same points, furnished the data for the determination of height and position. A reasonable approxima- tion is all that is claimed. The accompanying sketch shows the mountains, including the high peaks. Looking to the north was 60 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. Copper River, with its numerous gravel islands and channels, with plenty of ice in it both packed and floating as yet. Between Monnt Wrangell and the river are three ranges of mountains, one of which was snow-covered, thus proving its elevation to be considerable. Along this part of the river absence of rocks characterizes the banks. These are very variable in height, and chiefly of recent sedimentary deposit. There is splendid grass near the river, and the flat oppo- site Liebigstag's had the appearance of an excellent stock range. It was sufficiently elevated to be dry, and was partially timbered with cottonwoods and spruces. After exposing a number of photographic plates, the party started off with a liberal supply of moose meat, and as a consequence in ex- cellent spirits. We now had seven natives to assist in cordelling, besides the two tyones and two hunters. With Liebigstag as cap- tain, our chances for taking the most direct channel were much in- creased. Beyond this our first natives were little acquainted. For several days only two whites kept with the boat; the others followed the trail along the east bank of the river, which at times lay several miles away. The party following the trail was supposed to furnish game, but its efforts to do so were not very successful. An occasional goose or duck was killed in the river or a slough, but our chief de- pendence was rabbit. After leaving Liebigstag's the river continued to bend westward, the general bearing being between NW. and NNW. On May 11 we sighted the small mountains that give rise to the stream on the west bank, called by the natives Klatena. These mountains are a continuation of the range to the west of the river, but are so low that Very little snow was on them. From the same point Mount Wran- gell, sending up a white smoke or vapor, bore E. 25 N. After one of the longest day's marches while cordelling, we went into camp about twenty miles above Liebigstag's, from which camp Mount Wrangell bore E. 12° K and Mount Drum K 30° E. From Camp 5 to mountain behind Taral the bearing was SE. i° S. On the 12th we traveled 6 miles W. |° N. , then 3 miles WNW. , and" went into camp one mile above Conaquanta's winter house. He and his immediate family were out in a hunting camp, but our halt was with a band of his followers, all of whom were arrayed in their best to welcome us. Our approach was, as usual, heralded several hours in advance, and it had now become imperative on me to make an of- ficial visit to the ranking man of each settlement, however small. At this settlement, the most numerous on Copper River, were 23 men, 8 women, and 16 children. To our great surprise, we found a few pounds of flour and a few ounces each of tea and sugar, besides some fancy cups and saucers. The possession of the latter was an infallible index of Tyoneship in one of its grades. Their flour had come from Tasnai, which to this time we had been led to suppose was at the RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. 61 mouth, of the Tanana River, but which, iu reality was the mouth of the Suchitno, in Cook's Inlet. I had frequent maps made by the natives to show us the trail over the Alaskan Mountains and down the Tanana to the Yukon River. all of which indicated the route to be via the Tezlina River to Tasnai. The accompanying sketch represents one of the maps thus made. Since leaving the Chittystone we had been deluded into thinking we knew our course. The strong tendency of the river to the westward and the comparatively low latitude, as determined by 'our observa- tions, awakened my suspicions, but it was not until we reached the Tezlina that I felt sure the trail up it could not lead over the Alas- kan Monutains, but rather to Cook's Inlet. Having obtained observations for position at camp, we left the following morning with but four natives — jSTicolai, his two vassals, one of whom was Wahnie, and Chetoza, a vassal of Liebigstag, who had to be amply rewarded for permitting him to escort us. The assistance rendered us by the many natives recently with us • was valuable, but their ceremonies and great sense of rank were very op- pressive to my party. Nicolai, when with Tyones, was equal to or worse than any of them in this respeet, but when with us only he was much more endurable, None of the natives would sell us food of any kind without consulting him. and he advised prices that would make a commissary in civilization shudder. They realized full well our dependence, aud made the most of it. Instead of acceding to our terms, we were almost invariably compelled to yield to theirs. At 1 mile from camp we passed two more unoccupied houses of Conaquanta, the best found on Copper River. Our course for 4 miles was NW., and for 3 MW., when we went into camp No. 8. The mean barometer reading while in camp was 28.67, which showed Camp 8 to be 750 feet above Taral. Camp 9, at an estimated distance of 9 miles from Camp 8 by the channels of the river we fol- lowed, was, according to the barometer, 110 feet higher. This is not more than the average rise from Taral northward, as will be seen by consulting the barometric table in the Meteorological Appendix. This wonderful fall of the river will account for the torrent-current which the Cojjper River has from its source down to the glaciers. Midway between the camps we passed the mouth of the Klatena, the largest tributary of the Copper save the Chittyna yet passed, and a stream of size, as shown by the general topography of the country. The mountains on the west side, as far as the eye could reach, seemed to be separated by this river. Natives report this river to head near Nuchek in a large lake, where fish are abundant; that to reach Nuchek, however, would necessitate the crossing of large glaciers. Nicolai informed me that he had been to its source when he was a small boy. In accordance with his recollection I have traced it in dotted lines on the accompanying map. 62 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. One mile above the Klatena, on the east bank, enters the Klawa- sina, a small tributary. From Liebigstag's to Conaquanta the river varies from a half to a mile in width, with numerous channels. From the Klawasina to the Tezlina the river is generally confined to a single channel, with de- cided curves. During the march the bearing varied from NW. to N. 20° W. After having exposed eight plates, the photographic in- strument and all the plates exposed during the time on Copper Eiver were carefully packed and cached, to be taken down to JSTuchek by Mcolai on his return. Camp 10, May 15, found us at the mouth of the Tezlina, where we bade good-bye to Nicolai after putting in his possession several let- ters descriptive of the journey to that point. We had passed beyond the territory of the Atnatanas to the neutral grounds that separate them from the Tatlatans. We had to depend almost wholly on our own resources from this time forward. En route, until the headwaters of the Copper were reached, we observed the greatest destitution and hunger within our experience in Alaska. In my letter, sent back to the department commander, no informa- tion whatever could be given of our future movements. No natives had been met who had ever heard of a trail over the mountains to the northward. The Copper River here showed little or no diminu- tion in volume. The Tezlina, which we had expected to ascend, was little if any larger than the Klatena, and only about 25 or 30 yards wide, besides being swift, with a bed filled in with bowlders. FROM THE TEZLINA RIVER TO LAKE SUSLOTA. The natives informed us that we had no chances of reaching the source of the Copper; that the current was so swift that to cordell the boat would be impossible. They also spoke of the many chan- nels, which we found to exist to such a number as to keep us almost continually in the water. The buds of the cottonwoods were now partially opened, but the salmon would not arrive until the leaves had appeared and attained their full size. Frequently we imagined that fish had struck our legs when wading across these many channels, but this sensation proved a delusion. The ice was yet floating in the river, and the temperature of the water 43 Fahrenheit. A day was passed at the mouth of the Tezlina to try and replenish our supplies by hunting, but without success save to the extent of a few rabbits. Sergeant Robinson shot at and wounded a small black bear, the only large game seen save the tebay of the Chittystone. No buoyancy of spirit characterized the party as it left the mouth of the Tezlina, entirely in ignorance of what was in store for it; and, wearied with hunger and other hardships, there was just cause for melancholy. The party had scarcely been dry day or night since h Mt. Drum, E. 10° S., 13,300 ft. y E., 16,600 ft. RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 63 leaving Taral. During the day we had an accident which might easily have proved fatal to the success of the expedition. In cross- ing the river, an undertaking circumstances frequently necessitated, our skin boat struck and lodged in the middle of the channel, where the current was terrific, on a huge hidden bowlder. The dogs were thrown out of the boat, the sides of which were crushed in, and for a few minutes general consternation prevailed until we were again safe on land. Had the boat upset our bedding, guns, and instru- ments would have been lost, and doubtless the lives of some of the party. This event seemed to add no little to the general depression of the party. Two miles above the mouth of the Tezlina the bearing of Mount Drum is E. 20° N. The course of the river during the day was nearly due north, with some very marked curves. From Camp 12 the bear- ings of Mounts Drum and Wrangell were respectively E. 10° N. and E. 13° K, with angles of elevation 3° 20' and 5° 06'. The barometer read 28.05, showing camp to be 1,275 feet above Taral and 1,850 feet above sea-level. » Before leaving camp, two runners f rom Conaquanta's hunting camp ached us with about two meals of moose meat, for which we traded. The grass had now given way to the deep moss, which continued to characterize the country, with an occasional exception, through- out the remainder of our explorations. We left camp after repair- ing the baidarra, an operation that had become a daily necessity on account of the rottenness of its skin covering, produced by continual moisture. One mile above camp, on an island, were springs so strongly im- pregnated with minerals that their waters could not be drunk. Even a sip left for a long time a disagreeable taste. The deposit on the gravel showed the presence of iron. We were unable to carry any of it away. Three miles further up the mouth of the Tonkina was passed. It showed a volume of water, the cross-section of which was about 30 feet by 3 feet. Numerous channels necessitated almost continual wading, which was now seriously showing its ill effects on the party. Improper circulation of the blood and frequent discharge of urine at night was tthe cause of much sleeplessness. Ice froze in the cups to the thick- ness of half an inch during the night of May 20. The geese had be- gun to lay, however, and occasionally we could get one, with its eggs,- of which there were never more than six. Two miles above Camp 14 we passed the mouth of the Gakona, so concealed by timbered lands as not to be visible. The diminution in volume of the Copper after passing this point showed this to be no inconsiderable tributary. The bearing up it from near the junction ^ZJF - lit. Hi-urn. E. 10" S. i:::!im If Mt. Wrangell, ESE., 17,5U0 ft. l6. — AS SEEN FROM POINT SIX MILES ABOVE MOUTH OF GAKONA RlYER. lit. Tilliiinn, SE. by E.. Hi, Win !;, g4 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. is NW. The positions of the various camps are shown on the accom- panying maps. Three miles below Camp 15 we obtained thirty salmon from a de- serted cache in such a condition that onr dogs hesitated to eat them, yet hunger compelled us to do so. On the 22d we went into camp early in order to replenish our "larder" by hunting, but had little success. A smoke far in advance seemed to promise something cheer- ful, but soon we found that the natives, whose presence it indicated, were traveling north as well as ourselves. From their trail we knew they had no boat, hence our chance of overtaking them was very indifferent. The river again appeared in a single channel, an un- usual sight on the Copper. On the 23d, at # Camp 16, another effort was made to obtain large game. One party crossed the river towards the peaks on the east; the other hunted on the west bank. Neither of these obtained any game. The thoughts of all were now centered on the natives in ad- vance whose smoke we had seen. From a high hill behind Camp 16 a great stretch of country was visible. Huge snow-capped mount- ains to the north and west, evidently the principal range south of the Tanana River, were seen for the first time. The highest visible peak of the range, which bore N. by E., I have called Mount Patten, in honor of Captain Patten, of the U. S. Q. M. D., though I have been unable to definitely locate it on the map for want of other observa- tions of it. It was supposed that this peak was seen several times after reaching the Tanana, but the bearings when plotted do not agree. The farthest visible water of the Copper River bore EKE. Mounts Drum and Tillman bore respectively E. 15° S. and SE. On the 24th we passed the first natives seen since May 15. They were the thinnest, hungriest people I have ever beheld. The children were slowly wasting away. Their only support had been a few small fish, rabbits, and roots. Their supply of food on our arrival contained roots only, but the men were off for fish. We examined not only the caches, but the contents of everything that might possibly contain food, with a view of satisfying our hunger, but to no purpose. This settlement was on a small tributary of the Copper, on the west bank. It was our intention to camp near them, but so pitiful was the sight that we marched 3 miles farther. Our condition was better than the natives — thanks to our guns and ammunition. I shudder to think of the subsequent condition of those poor women and children, unless the salmon-ran quickly followed us. The last 3 miles traveled were in the direction of NE. by E., and the river was H miles wide. The water had risen to such a height tli.ii we were compelled in numerous places to cut the small timber, ordinarily a short distance from the water, to be able to cordell the boats. ( )ur marches continued to grow shorter, in spite of strenuou efforts to prevent this. RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. (55 From Camp 18, a high mountain, Mount Sanford, above Mount Drum, was seen for the first time since leaving Liebigstag's. Its bearing was E. 17° S., whilst Mount Drum bore SE. |S. On the 26th the mouth of Sanford River, a torrent from the east, was passed. From leaving one camp until making another, we were almost con- tinually in the water, and a distance of G miles had now become a huge march, so difficult was the river and so worn the party. On the 2?th we passed the mouth of Schnuna River, a torrent from the west, and went into camp, not having "traveled more than 1 miles. The river ha'd many turns at this latitude. I have refrained from detailing its course, which is shown by the map. The size of the boat we now found to be too great for the strength of the party, and larger than necessary to carry our all, so, at Camp 20, Ser- geant Robertson and Bremner remodeled and reduced it. Camp was near a native house, though the only native we saw was a cripple, who wanted permission to accompany us, claiming that he was a skilly, and related to the big Tyone of the Upper Copper. From him we learned that there was a trail over the Alaskan Mountains, but it was kute- shit, kuteshit (far, faraway). He was willing however to go, but to subsist him would be necessary. We rejected his services, and sup- posed that this would be the last of him. Not so, however, for he continued to follow along the woods, always appearing at meals, when- ever we halted on the side of the river on which he was. After a while we found that he could be a valuable assistant, by digging roots, and he was added to the party. He proved a genuine skilly, in fact a Mas- cot, without whose services we would undoubtedly have suffered much more than we did. Even rabbits were now difficult to obtain, and the little flour and rice kept back for moral effect were now used to appease our hunger. The following is from Fickett's journal : May 28. — Had a little paste, rotten and wormy meat for dinner; rotten goose eggs and a little rice for supper. Each meal about one-fourth of what We needed. We went into camp. Whole party y>layed out. May 29. — Party nearly played out for want of food. Can just crawl. Had t<> stop middle of p.m. to make a flap-jack for eaoh and a little beef tea. Decided i<> abandon boat at the next Indian house. May 30. — Temperature of water 43. Course NE. by Iv Arrived at an Indian house at 11 a. m. hungry. Decided to abandon boat. Indian gave ua a dinner of boiled meat, from which he scraped the maggots by oandfuls before cutting ii up. It tasted good, maggots and all. On the morning of May 2* we passed the mouth of the Chitsle't- china. Its canon for many miles bore N". 20° AY., while the Copper bore N. 30° E. The two seemed nearly equal in size, and for some time I was in doubt as to which one to ascend. The cripple decided me, by saying that there were no natives on the former, bul there S. Ex. 125 5 66 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. were some on the latter. The trail over the mountains was yet very indeterminate, the cripple having informed us that two moons would be required to make the portage. I thought perhaps a shorter route might be found from the head of the Chitsletchina, the mouth of which had several channels, separated by thick ice resting on the gravel bars. A few miles above the junction of the rivers we reached a camp of natives, twenty-three in number, all ready to start for Taral for the fishing season. They did not contemplate a return until the follow- ing winter. Here the Copper was again in a single channel, and showed itself a much smaller river, its width being only about 100 yards. On May 30, after a march of 3 miles, we reached a native set- tlement of four souls (Camp 22), and found the natives above the Tezlina. Here we abandoned the baidarra to take a portage, the chord of an arc represented by Copper River. At seven miles from camp the bearing of Mount Sanford was S. 5° E., and Mount Drum S. 20° W. Noon observation showed us to be in latitude 62' 54' N. The Tatlatan cripple took the trail, and we followed in single file, with packs on our backs. Our three dogs were utilized for the first time as pack animals, and were of much value. Our guide was crippled to the extent of having a shriveled leg, for which he substi- tuted a long stick that passed behind the shoulder and above the head when adjusted to assist walking. The lower end of his staff was broadened to prevent its sinking into the sphagnum ; his speed and endurance seemed wonderful. Our trail, on June 1, lay closer to the river, and 3 miles from Camp 23 we crossed a clear stream x of dimensions 30 feet wide by 1-j- feet deep, which we knew to be a fish stream by the appearance of the camping-ground upon its' bank, and the fish traps lying in and near the water. The house, usually found at such places, had been burnt, and no natives had stopped in the vicinity for many months. On the banks of this stream, where the moss had been destroyed, was the luxuriant growth of grass that generally springs up near settlements. This fact may prove of value if it ever be considered prudent to attempt the cultivation of barley, or the hardy vegeta- bles, in such high latitudes. The country over which we were travel- ing was covered with marshy lakes and a growth of dwarf spruces, both dead and alive, besides a fair quantity of cotton woods. ' It dif- fered in no material respect from the country of the Chittystone River, over Avhich we portaged. The berry bushes (several varieties) were in bloom, and the foliage of the trees was nearly complete, in- dications that the salmon should be at hand. Camp 24 was on the Copper River, which here has a course nearly due east and west. About 3 miles to the west of camp the Slana River empties from the north. It is a tributary of considerable pro- RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 67 portions, if we judge from the diminution of volume of the Copper above their confluence. From its source, Lake Mentasta, a trail also leads to the Tanana. June 2 our course lay along the river, which now bore ENE. for several miles. Suddenly, to my surprise, the cripple began crossing some of its numerous channels. The bed of the river here is fully a mile wide, and there* are probably ten channels, varying in depth, where we forded, from a few inches to 2| feet. Between the chan- nels are gravel and small bowlders, with an occasional island cov- ered with willow. In fording these channels the party found it necessary, on account of the swiftness of the current, to join hands, thus proving of mutual assistance. After crossing the river our course lay KE. for about 5 miles, over a well-worn trail, a pleasant sight to us. When within a mile or two of the Ty one's we passed a collection of snow-shoes and sleds placed in the branches of the trees. Why these articles should usually be stored at a distance from the house I was unable to learn, but such is the custom with all of the Copper Eiver natives. The cripple had gone in advance to notify Batzulneta, for such was the name of the chieftain, of our approach. The usual salute with guns was exchanged, and we were met by thirty-one men, ten women, and fifteen children, the latter, of course, in the background. Of these natives, quite a number were from Tanana, and had gone into sum- mer camp with Batzulneta, to be ready for the run of salmon. That the Tananatanas should come to the Copper River to fish was very significant. Here there was but one winter house, and that occupied by the Tyone and his immediate following, while the other natives were living in spruce-bough houses. Batzulneta, the largest native seen by us in the Territory, was 6 feet 4 inches high, and clad in a blouse of scarlet flannel, obtained from a trading station on the Yu- kon River, and a pair of native trousers, which included the foot gear. His shirt of cotton cloth, and a black woolen hat with strips of red flannel, completed his costume. His hair hung down his back in a tangled roll 3 feet long, showing no signs of ever having had any attention. As a medicine man, he could neither have it cut nor combed. Over each ear hung two small braids, secured at the ends by beads and sinew. Altogether he was the most picturesque char- acter we had met, yet his face neither showed courage nor cunning. His ascendancy had doubtless arisen from his position as medicine man, possibly from a superstition concerning his unusual stature. One of the natives from the Tanana made a map of the Yukon and Tanana, which is inserted to show how great is the geographical knowledge of these primitive people. He assured me he had been to the stations on the Yukon, at Fort Reliance and at Fetutlin. the former kept by Mr. McQuisten, the latter by Mr. Harper, both of whom we afterwards met on the Yukon, below the mouth of the 68 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. Tanana. He was entirely ignorant of their surnames, but spoke of "Jock." These natives, likewise those on the headwaters of the Tanana, call the Yukon Kiver, Mga To; the White River, Natsina; the Tanana, Nabesna, and by such names we spoke of them to the natives until we were two-thirds of the way down the Tanana. At this camp we bade good by to Wahnie and Chetoza, both of whom were in a sad condition, due to the constant exposure and hardship. Each had contracted a severe cough, and both were very much reduced in flesh. "Wahnie had become much attached to us, and wept at parting. Their services for the last few days had been of very little value. The usual meal was given us on our arrival, but after that food of any kind was difficult to obtain at any price-. The natives were hourly expecting the salmon, and would fre- quently go to the small river near by, and put in the dip-net. In- spired by their hopes, June 3 was passed in waiting, on a diet of half- rotton salmon and a few rabbits, the moose meat having been ex- hausted. During the afternoon of our arrival all the males (eight) from Lake Suslota came to Batzulne'ta's, and in the evening had a grand orgie. At first we were told that it would require thirty days to cross the mountains, but, after many wahwahs, it was decided that with long marches the journey could be accomplished in seven. The first es- timate was made on our arrival in a half exhausted condition. Four natives were employed to pack across the mountains for us, but not until the Tyone had been first rewarded, then the fathers of tjie young men, and finally a promise from us to pay the young men themselves for their services. The natives here differed not a great deal from those of Taral. Their language, however, was not readily intelligible to our Lower River natives, one of whom I used as interpreter. In some cases their words were entirely different, for example : a long distance by the Midnooskies waskuteshit ; by the Tatlatans, nijot (French j). Just before leaving a series, of loud shouts was heard, proclaim- ing the first salmon of the season. It was a rather small silver sal- mon, which was placed in a conspicuous place on one of the spruce- bough tepees, where all visited it with great singing and glee. Though aware that probably in a few days there would be hundreds of these, the promise of honnai meat (caribou), at Lake Suslota, induced us to move on. Moreover, I knew that at most only two or three days' rations of fresh fish could be carried. The expedition left Batzulneta's camp for Lake Suslota, the source of a tributary of the Slana River, on the 4th day of June. At three miles from camp the bearing of the pass over the mountains was N". 30° E., bearing of the source of the Copper River, E. 30° S. Almost the entire march to the lake was oyer a boggy flat, with tetes de RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. G9 femmes, or hunnnocks, a liberal allowance of scrub birch, so small that it might readily be taken for gooseberry bushes, and a limited quantity of dwarf spruce. About noon it was extremely difficult to find enough wood to boil the tea. The gravel and bowlder bed, so near the surface, would prevent the growth of vegetation of any considerable size, even though there were no ice. The mountains we were soon to cross were comparatively low, and pointed almost at right angles to the high mountains to our eastward and southward. The high mountains in question constitute the apex of the mountain system south of the Yukon, and from which spurs shoot in several directions. The headwaters of the Tanana, Copper, and White Rivers, are contained in them. The location of the prominent peaks, viz, Sanford, Drum. Wrangell, Tillman, and Blackburn, by numerous compass bearings, do not tend to show the continuity of the range. Could a view have been obtained from one of these peaks, a backbone of the system might have been deter- mined, showing the connection with the St. Elias Range, with the mountains that separate the Copper from the Tanana, and those between the Tanana and the White. The existence of high mount- ains behind and around Taral, and the high mountains north of Prince William's Sound led me to believe that the St. Elias Range finds an extension at a rather uniform distance from the coast, and terminates south of the Kuskokwim. The mountains we were about to cross could hardly be a continuation of the high mountains to the east, unless one be considered a spur of the other. The range, south of the middle part of the Tanana, contains some very high, snow- clad peaks. We reached Lake Suslota, at the foot of the pass, where we found one house and three or four families, consisting of eight men, six women, and nine children. Their main sustenance was a dried fish, much smaller in size than the salmon. They were not fishing during our stay. In the lake, which was only two miles long and very nar- row, could be seen small grayling, but they could not be induced to rise for anything we could offer them, no insects of any description being obtainable. From Suslota, Mount Sanford had a bearing of SSW. and an angle of elevation of 4° 2'. It towered above all vis- ible surroundings. The outlet of the lake, a tributary of the Slan;i. flowed in a southwesterly direction. For many days before reaching Lake Susl6ta we had Bought a pass through the mountains on the right bank, which continued to grow lower as our northings increased. To be at the fool of such a one as would lead to the Tanana in so short a time seemed hardly credible, but such wasthe fact. To find two rivers of the magnitude of the Tanana and Copper heading so near each other as almost to have intersecting tributaries, and to be so ent irely differenl in their characteristics, I consider one of the most interesting discoveries of 70 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. the expedition. The barometer showed Camp Susldta to be 3,160 feet above the sea-level. The narrative of the Copper Eiver ends with Susldta, the journey over the mountains being included in the narrative of the Tanana River. NARRATIVE OF THE TANANA RIVER. LAKE SUSLOTA TO TETLIN&S. I begin the narrative of the Tanana at the initial point of the pass over the Alaskan Range, Lake Suslota. This pass I have named in honor of General N. A. Miles, U. S. Army. It is probably the best locality that will permit communication beteen the Yukon Basin and the Copper River country, and would doubtless be used should the minerals of the latter region prove of sufficient importance to justify such expenditures as this would necessitate. The possibility of the ascent of the Copper with provisions can hardly be enter- tained, unless it be made with sleds during the winter. The route (Miles's Pass) from the headwaters of the Copper to the Upper Tanana, and the finding on both sides of natives who had been to the Yukon River to trade, settles the mooted question, " Do the Copper River natives visit the Yukon?" With regard to this matter the traders themselves were not confident, until a few ques- tions were put, which brought forth the facts in the matter. Mr. McQuisten, trader of Fort Reliance, and Mr. La Due, a prospector, asserted that they had seen some Copper River natives at the post in 1883, and that a native on the north side of the mountains was used as a second interpreter to them. From this and other infor- mation I conclude that their visits are not frequent, and that traffic is effected usually by intermediate parties. About noon of June 5, 1885, after engaging natives, taking obser- vations for position and arranging the packs of all, including those of the dogs, we left the settlement, and soon began the ascenl of the mountains, which were free from snow excepting the highesl points and the ravines. The upper or northerly end of Lake Susldta was yet covered witli ice and snow. As we slowly ascended the rather gradual slope, the Copper River basin appeared before our eyes, a beautiful sight. Looking south the lofty mountains on the east bank, the flat country on the west, with numerous small lakes, hedged in with evergreen timber; the river itself, with numerous channels, made an impression long to he retained. On our left, while ascending, was visible the small tributary emptying into Sns- lota. Up it is a trail u^'d by the natives in going to Lake Mentasta, the source of Slana River. 71 72 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. After having readied an elevation of 1,000 feet above Suslota, in traveling abont 3 miles, we f onnd in onr front a continnation of mountains, the highest of which was 1,000 feet above us, but which looked insignificant when compared with the lofty white masses to our south and east. From this elevation was pointed out to us by the natives the direction of Lake Mentasta, which was nearly due north; also a prominent pyramidal peak, towards which our course lay, and which bore 1STNE. After a march of about 7 miles we were near the foot of Mount "Tebay," pyramidal in shape and on a brook which feeds Lake Suslota. To our great surprise and delight the long-looked for sal- mon were endeavoring to ascend it. In some of the little channels the ice prevented further progress, in other places there was so little water that the fish, in endeavoring to push their way up on their sides, actually shoved themselves out of the brook onto the land. These were the advance guard that had doubtless passed through Suslota after our start in the morning. We had no difficulty in tak- ing all we needed, nor was there any hesitancy about one and all eat- ing until completely satisfied — a most unusual occurrence. We had about three days' supply of meat on hand, which was about all we could carry, under the circumstances. I know this seems rather incredible, but not more so than the fact that any one of the party could easily eat 4 pounds of meat at a sitting. One of the party ate three salmon, including the heads of all and the roe of one from the time of going into camp until retiring. This camp (No. 1) was the only place between Nuchek and the Yukon River where it would have been possible to lie over and obtain food in suf- ficient quantity to satisfy our hunger; yet I did not deem it prudent to attempt to recuperate our strength on fish diet alone. With one day's ration of salmon, and our moose meat, we left camp No. 1 and traveled NE. | K, 5 miles, passing the little lake to which the salmon were making in order to deposit their spawn. I asked our natives whether these fish ever descended. They replied in the negative, thus in a measure corroborating the same views held by some of the natives of the Yukon. One and a half miles further brought us to a water-shed between the Tanana and Copper, where, for the first time, was sighted the long sought Tanana waters. At this place were many small lakes, separated by only a few hundred yards, some serving as reservoirs for the Tanana and others for the Copper. The natives informed me that Lake Mentasta had outlets flowing into both the Tanana and Copper. Should this not be strictly true, I am satisfied from the topography of the country that the headwaters of Tokai River are not more than a mile or two from the lake. This so-called water- shed is in reality a pass, 800 to 1,500 feet lower than the mountains on each side, that are barren of everything save a little grass, spruce, RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. 73 and much moss. From it the course to Lake Mentasta is nearly due west. On each side of us and converging as we advanced were two trib- utaries of Tokai River, one of which was reported to head in Lake Mentasta, the other headed to the east and south. It would have been the most natural course to have followed this tributary to the Tanana, but our packers protested, saying Ave would starve. Our general course for the day was NE., and our camp No. 2, below the junction of the two tributaries, was near the canon through which the Tokai Eiver flows, and on its left bank, at a distance of 10 miles from camp. Then instead of following this stream to its con- fluence with the Tanana we crossed it a few miles below camp, and a mile or two farther on a tributary of it ; then began ascending to another height, from which Tokai River bore NNW. At 8. 30 p. m. our course had now become due east, with another tributary of To- kai River on our left, flowing nearly due west. At 10.15 p. m. we went into Camp 3, on the second water-shed, where were numerous small lakes, and other geographical features similar to those on the first. The term water-shed must here be considered in a limited sense, inasmuch as the entire range would properly receive that term ; and it must also be remembered that our course was nearer east than north. Observation, on the 7th, showed our latitude to be 63.11; on the 5th, at Susldta, 63.01. Fatigue and heat prevented a start from Camp 3 until 5 p. m., at which time the sun was far above the horizon. The course for 4 miles was east ; then was begun the ascent of a tributary of a stream emptying into the Tanana to the east of the place where we first reached that river. The bearing for the next few miles was NE. , until we reached a second tributary of the stream on our right, just mentioned. From this the course was ENE. , up a gorge, with much snow and ice, and temperature below freezing point. At 1.30 a. m., after the steepest ascent made by the expedition, we were on a very short and narrow " divide," 4,500 feet above the sea- level, with bold, barren bluffs on each side. From this the most grateful sight it has ever been my fortune to witness was presented. The sun was rising, but not in the east, in fact just two points cast of north. We had nearly reached the ' ' land of the midnighl sun."' to find in our front the "promised land." The views in advance and in rear were both grand ; the former showing the extensive Tanana Valley with numerous lakes, and the low im brok en range of mountains between the Tanana" and Yukon Rivers. On this pass, with both white and yellow buttercups around me and snow within a IVw feet. I sat proud of the grand sight which no visitor save an Ainatana or Tananatana had ever seen. Fatigue and hunger were for tin- fcime forgotten in the great joy at finding our greatesl obstacles overcome. As many as twenty lakes were visible, some of which were north <>l 74 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. the Tanana, more than 20 miles away. The bearing of the most easterly water was E. 15° N". The bearing to Nandell's, onr im- mediate destination, was E. 30° N". Had we ascended the craggy, rocky peak on onr right, which obstrncted the eastern view, we conld probably have traced the Tanana many miles towards its sonrce, bnt the greatest of all obstacles to exploration, hunger, prevented. The northern declivity was extremely abrupt, and our descent lay along a gorge similar to the one ascended, excepting the absence of ice and snow. A mile down this gorge, at the first obtainable tim- ber, we halted and cooked the last Liebig's extract of beef, that we had so carefully preserved for just such a contingency. At 5 a. m. we went into Camp 4, barely able to stand, to be har- rassed by the gnats and mosquitoes. Our only protection was our blankets, which the extreme heat rendered most uncomfortable. We had succeeded by marching all night in making about 14 miles. We had crossed the Alaskan Mountains, represented in this section on all charts tiiat attempt vertical delineations as very rugged and lofty, which is hardly the case. Not four weeks before our landing at San Francisco, a scout sent into Alaska the year preceding us had returned and reported that a crossing from the Copper to the Tanana would be utterly impossible ; that a fair idea of the nature of the country could be obtained by placing one Mount Hood on another. His information was obtained from natives, and is not more inaccurate than is frequently obtained from the same source. The traders of the Yukon, who are supposed to be more familiar with the general topography of the interior than any other white men, believed the crossing to be next to impossible, and were more than surprised when we reached the Yukon River. Camp 4, just over the range, was at an elevation of 3,300 feet, as shown by the barometer. June 9 we began our tramp about 2 p. m., and having been in- formed by the natives that by marching all night we could reach Nandell's, we decided upon making an attempt to do so, provided we had no success at hunting. Two natives, sent in advance to shoot rabbits, were overtaken at 10 p. m. with one in their possession. This little animal was but a scanty exasperating taste for nine half-starved men. During the remainder of the march to Nandell's, so exhausted was the party that the slowest progress was barely possible. Just before sighting the few houses at the settlement, we were on a hill two or three hundred feet above the lakes and could see that the chain to which they belong is very extensive. We had passed several small lakes, and had crossed a large brook, leaving it on our left. This last may have been a feeder of some of the lakes, but from its temperature I should judge that such is not the case. The general course was E. 30° N., with many deviations. RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 75 At 3 a. m., June 10, the party was welcomed at Nandell's with a great firing of guns. Here there were forty men, twenty-eight women, and eighteen children assembled to gaze at a sight never before seen. Many of the men of this locality, in fact most of them, had made the tour one or more times to the Yukon for trading purposes, yet some of the men and most of the women and children had never seen a white man. Their clothing indicated more easy communication with a trading station than did that of the Atnatanas. We realized from their appearance that better times awaited us. A few of the boys, to their great pride and our surprise, repeated, with various degrees of accuracy, the letters of the alphabet. They had received instruction on the Yukon from Mr. Simms, the zealous missionary sent out from England. He was highly esteemed by the natives, who were much benefited by his worthy example and in- struction. This most excellent gentleman passed his last moments on Porcupine or Rat River, in the year 1884. Had the distance to Nanclell's been 30 miles farther, and game equally scarce as on the trail traveled, the injury to the party from hunger would have been incalculable. The settlement of which Nandell was autocrat consisted of four houses situated on a small, clear stream, which helped connect the chain of lakes. After crossing the mountains a most decided change of landscape was presented us. Vegetation was more rank, and the temperature of the lake water was so high as to make it very dis- agreeable to drink. It seemed rather remarkable that the season should be far enough advanced (June 10) for the sun's heat to have caused the water to be not uncomfortable for bathing in these lakes. The water of the Yukon was very much colder in July, as was the water of the Tanana the last of June. In fact, the mouths of some of the tributaries of the Tanana were filled with ice as we passed them. Some of the lakes seemed to possess a great depth of water, though a more thorough investigation might have revealed otherwise. Pos- sibly only the shallow and surface water is heated by the sun, which shines in that latitude, in June, about twenty-one hours per day. The psychrometer was stolen before the tenrperature of the water had been obtained, and our barometer was so injured as to be of no future use to us. These incidents came near being the cause of serious trouble. I knew well enough that the manifestation of any fear would place us completely in the power of the natives, to treat us as they should see fit. Efforts to recover the instrument, however, were of no avail, and we barely averted a struggle with these people. The country in the vicinity of the lakes was covered with a luxu- riant growth of grass, and countless roses were in bloom. The trails round about bore evidence of having been much used, and altogether a more civilized appearance had not been seen since leaving Nuchek. The houses were large, and constructed without the use of bark. 76 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. The absence of the attached sweat-room and of the "box" arrange- ment of the interior caused a marked difference in their appearance when compared with the typical Copper River honse. To procure firewood even for cooking was not an easy task. The scarcity of timber showed that these grounds had been used many years. A very old native informed me that he had been born there; that dur- ing the winter wood was hauled on sleds from the hills; that Nan- dell had obtained his supremacy by plunging a knife into his rival, son of my informant; that there were no salmon in the Tanana. I learned that there was a trail from Lake Mentasta to Nan- dell's, and also to the Tanana; that there were two routes to Fort Reliance — one entirely by foot, the other by portage to a tributary of the White River, then down the same, the White and the Yukon, in a skin boat. The return trip was always by the former route. The food of the natives at this season is chiefly fish, taken in this stream by means of a dip-net which just fills the channel, made nar- row by means of small spruce piles driven side by side. Here there were several kinds of them, including pickerel, suckers, grayling, and two varieties of whitefish. The "catch" in the single dip-net supplied all, and from each fisherman Nanclell exacted a royalty. Some one was on the fishing-stand with net in hand day and night. At Nandell's was obtained the first pemmican that we had seen in the territory. Afterwards, however, some was obtained on a tribu- tary of the Kdyukuk. The inhabitants around these lakes, including Tetling's following, were almost without exception suffering from severe coughs, and many showed unmistakable signs of pulmonary troubles. From Nandell's, Lake Mentasta bore nearly due west. The canoes used here and at Kheeltat's are the smallest I have ever known, an average one being 13 to 15 feet long, 21 to 24 inches of beam, and 11 to 12 inches across the bottom, and very shallow. At first a raft journey down the Tanana was contemplated, but the natives protested, saying that two moons would be required. Later developments showed conclusively that a raft would have been to- tally unfit to run rapids so strewn with timber in places that we could barely run our skin boat through. It was finally decided by a coun- cil that the Yukon (Mga To) could be reached in a skin boat in twenty days, but no Indians could be induced to assist us farther than to the next settlement, two days distant by the river from Tet- ling's. Nandell's is in latitude G3° 21', and approximate longitude 143° 28'. He had several "medicine men" in his following, one of whom ac- companied us as far as Tetling's, entreating us not to stop at Kheel- tat's, saying that all of us would certainly be killed. June 12 we left Nandell's for Tetling's, which bore NKE., and which is about 11 miles distant. The destruction of the natural RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. 77 carpeting of the earth by fire to kill the mosquitoes and gnats has caused a splendid grow th of grass between the two points just named. The numerous lakes on each side of the trail, the meadow-like ap- pearance of parts of the land between, with groves of cottonwood interspersed with birch, was sufficient to recall scenes of much lower latitudes. Around these lakes the country seemed more pastoral in its nature than in any part of the Territory. A yet more pleasing fact was that there were few mosquitoes or gnats to harrass us. TETLING'S TO KHEELTATS. We reached Tetling's in the afternoon, and had the construction of the baidarra immediately begun — that is, if the word "immedi- ately " can ever be properly used with regard to fulfillment of agree- ments by these people. Only three caribou skins could be obtained for it, one each from Nandell and Tetling, and one from quite a dis- tance. At Tetling's were six men who had greeted us at Nandell's, four women, and seven children, occupying two houses situated on a deep, clear stream, the outlet of a lake much larger than any we had passed — so said the natives. To obtain the positions of the lakes in the vicinity would have required a much more accurate survey than it was possible for us to make. Had there been food, I should have sent three of the party over the portage to the Yukon, and would have gone with the others to the source of the Tanana, which is indicated on the general chart in dotted lines. Insufficiency of food here as elsewhere was our great- est source of anxiety. The exhausted condition of the party caused me to start down the Tanana as soon as possible, vainly hoping that on reaching the Yukon bur wants would be immediately supplied. We purchased all obtainable food at ISTandeirs and Tetling's, giving in exchange all the money that remained and every garment or ar- ticle of any description that could be spared. The men of the party volunteered to give up everything in their possession, even to coats, shirts, pocket-knives, &c. We paid dearly for every pound of food, yet we left the natives in a hungry state, with their sole dependence on fish, which at that season were not abundant. The absence of salmon in the Tanana caused me to suspect falls or severe rapids in the river, but these natives denied that such was the case, though flatly refusing to go to the Yukon with us, notwithstanding the greatest inducements. At this place I noticed that the severe hardships to which Bremner had so long been exposed were affecting both his mental and physi- cal constitution. His ankle, sprained on the Chittystone, had as- sumed an unusual size, which was due; as we found later, to scurvy. For two weeks past the body of Sergeant Robertson had been cov- ered with black spots, which developed later into another form of 78 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. scurvy. We had carried a bottle of acetic acid, the best anti-scor- butic that could be obtained in Sitka and that could be transported. Its use was not effective, and I doubt whether any other acid would have been. The baidarra having been completed, was launched by the native boys, given a trial trip, and found satisfactory. It did not differ materially from the one we had constructed and used on the Copper River. Instead of being constructed out of moose skins, those of the caribou were used, and it was by no means an easy task to secure even three in all that region. With two natives, our three pack-dogs, and a large supply of meat and fish we started down the stream at 6 a. m. on the 14th. There were six paddlers and one steersman. After a run of two and a half hours down Tetling River, with its many windings and general course of N". by E., we reached the muddy Tan ana, with its quick- sands and boilings, sand-spits, and absence of rocks. The cur- rent of the river was between 3 and 3J miles per hour. Its water was covered with foam, which was not necessarily attributable to falls, new foam having been passed several times en route down. Spruce grew down to the very banks of the river. Wo attempt will be made in this narrative to detail the numerous courses; suffice it to say that the exact time on each course, as well as the course itself, were recorded, and the reduced results are shown on the accompany- ing maps. At 6 p. m. rocky banks on the north side were seen for the first time. The actual run on the Tanana was a distance of 35 miles. Heavy smoke caused by the extensive timber fires obscured the sun the entire day, so that an observation was impossible. This smoke had originated from signal fires which were intended to give warning of our presence in the country. When we first arrived at Nandell's there was only an occasional smoke around, but as his guests de- parted for their different habitations each marked his trail by a signal fire. The prevailing wind was from the east and carried the smoke along with us. In answer to the fires on the south bank new ones were started on the north, so that for nearly two days we barely caught a glimpse of the sun except through the heavy spruce smoke. Camp No. 7 was left at 5.45 a. m. to follow the many windings of the Tanana, which now varied from 100 to 300 yards in width. Most of the spruce timber growing along its banks was from 3 to 8 inches in diameter. At 8 o'clock the mouth of Tokai River, which had much increased in size since our first sight of it, was passed on the left bank. It does not possess the torrent current of other tributaries farther down on the same side. In the forenoon the first gravel banks were seen. The mountains on the left bank were becoming closer to the river, and the "country rock " had become visible on both banks. Nearly all the islands in this part of the river are timber covered 5 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 79 The signal smoke of Kheeltat, the bushy-headed Tyone, was sighted early in the middle of the afternoon, and at G.30 we halted at some of his cache honses opposite the point on the left bank where the trail from Lake Mentasta reaches the Tanana. At this place, in ac- cordance with my promise, I permitted the two natives to return to Nandell, which they intended to do by walking across the country. After a run down the river of 4 miles Ave halted for the night on the north bank, and about one-half mile above a tributary 30 yards wide with muddy water similar to the Tanana. During the day we had traveled on forty-one different courses, and the actual time (exclusive of halts) consumed was eleven hours and a half, the distance 45 miles. After we had been in camp about an hour we heard the firing of guns, to which we responded. Shortly afterwards three natives ap- peared in camp. They were runners from Kheeltat, whose house they said was ''kootel-stee," a short distance. This was the place that Nandell, Tetling, and their ' ' medicine men " had so frequently implored me not to visit, but to silently pass by. Unwilling to pass through the country without knowing the disposition of the natives, and realizing that the danger incurred by the visit was scarcely greater than those we were accustomed to meet and would probably in the future encounter, I resolved to see the warlike Tyone. The traders of the Yukon informed us in July that they supposed Kheeltat would be hostile to any whites invading his territory. The runners had descended Kheeltat River in two small canoes, which they said could be utilized by us. At 11 p. m. Fickett and myself started for Kheeltat's, having been carried to the right bank of the tributary in the canoes, and having the youngest of the three natives for a guide. At 1.30 a. m., June 16, after a forced march over country showing no signs of a trail, we walked into the miserable looking house of Kheel- tat, very much fatigued. The accompanying picture represents Kheeltat, the bushy -haired Tyone, his son, andasub-Tyone, Deshaddy, who had preceded us from Nandell's to give information of our arrival. It was taken when they were on a trading expedition to the Yukon, and consequently dressed in their finest. With less decoration and less modern clothes upon the persons it would be a fair picture of the Upper Tanana men. As we entered, a frown spread overKheel- tat's face and he would say nothing. The absence of the customary salute to welcome us was rather ominous, and his silence was yet more so. Shortly after our arrival a few shots were fired, not in honor of us, but to assemble the clans; couriers were also dispatched for the same purpose. Exhausted by working since 5 in the morning, Fickett and myself immediately fell asleep, to find on our awaking two hours later, 80 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. twenty-six men and fonr squaws in the small house, all attired in their best. The chart was shown them and the object of my visit explained, all of which interested them bnt little. My reputation as a " medicine man" had preceded me, and when I produced my med- icines, consisting of three kinds of pills, viz, quinine, and the usual Army purgative and anti-purgative pills, I immediately commanded their attention. Nandell had informed me that there had been many deaths among these people, and as nearly as I could understand him he feared they might attribute them to our entrance into the country, and this may have been one of the causes of his warnings to us. The same warm lakes, the same general appearance here as at Nandell's characterized the country. The consumptive look and its accompanying cough were more marked here than at the former place, and doubtless cod-liver oil would have been a more suitable prescription than anything in my medicine chest. The pills were given indiscriminately, but seemed to satisfy the natives. I must correct this; there was some discrimination, for the chief received one of each kind, a minor chief one each of two kinds, and a man or woman a single pill. Efforts to get two natives to go a part or all of the way to the Yukon were of no avail. From them we learned that there were remarkable features in the Tanana River, either violent rapids or falls. They would point to the canoes, make gestures indicative of capsizing, at the same time spreading the fingers of the hand and imitating with the voice the roaring sound of the water. From Kheeltat's there is a portage over to the Yukon at Fetutlin — the station now occupied by Mr. Harper, which requires six days, one of which is by water. The bushy-haired chief and all his following went to the mouth of the stream (Kheeltat's River) with us, the former taking me in the canoe with him. Like all the natives we had thus far met, they insisted on selling us their few furs, and seemed surprised that we were not traders. On parting with this reputed warlike chief, he promised to meet me on the upper Yukon in July, when the steamboat would have arrived, and said he would carry me a piece of caribou. My plans were afterwards changed, and I have not since seen him. KHEELTAT'S TO NUKLUKYET. At 7. 20 a. in. we started again down the Tanana, much to the dis- pleasure of the natives, who insisted on making an examination of our effects which they could vaguely see in our skin boat. We now counted twenty-eight men, eighteen women, and six children, prob- ably nearly all of Kheeltat's following. At 4 miles below we passed the mouth of a small, clear stream on the left bank, and 8 below we were at the foot of very lofty yellow granite bluffs, in a state of rapid disintegration, From these " Cathe^ RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 81 dral Bluffs" the course for several miles was directly toward tlie mountains on the south bank. When at the very foot of the mount- ains the rushing of waters verified the statement of the natives, and we were indeed in rapids, whose course was nearly due west. For one half hour we were running them, wondering every minute what a few rods farther would reveal. The high waves in places indicated the presence of large rocks in the channel. These rapids (Cathedral Rapids) mark the place where the river cuts through a small range of mountains. Below them the land on each side is lower and the course of the river is much more to the northward. The hills on the right bank strongly resemble those on the Hudson in the vicinity of Newburg. Ten miles below the head of Cathedral Rapids appeared yet more majestic bluffs (Tower Bluffs) on the right, with a torrent stream on the left, whose delta mouth was imbedded in a field of thick ice and snow. We were at the head of Tower Bluff Rapids. Ever after- wards the torrent stream on the left with bluffs on the right teas a sure index of very ragid water. The ice at the mouth of the tributary, called by me Robertson River, * was the first ice seen on the Tanana side of the mountains. The gulch from which Robertson River flows bears W. 20° S., and marks a decided break in the mountains to the westward. It also indicates the general course of the minor range, a cross-section of which is included between the head of Cathedral Rapids and the head 01 Tower Bluff Rapids, through which the river had cut. Just below Robertson River the Tanana spread its muddy water in several channels, which in turn are divided until in places we had a striking picture of Copper River. After running in these rapids for 8 miles the current slackened to G miles per hour for a mile or two, when we were again in rapids not surpassed by those just run. The upper part of the rapids caused me to consider steamboat navigation doubtful, but with respect to those 15 miles below there could be no doubt. The river was so divided into channels that it was with difficulty we could keep our small craft from running aground on the pebbly bottom. We were occasionally aground, when probably to our right or left, within a few hundred feet, was deep water. Once in a channel there was no halt- ing unless run aground. In places the river-bed attained a width of a mile to a mile and a quarter, and contained fields of lodged timber with roots turned to the current. Some of this timber gave evidence of having but re- cently been washed away from the place of its growth, the roots filled in with soil still fresh. Other of it, having been barked, and having lost the small boughs, showed that it was lodged prior to the * After a member of the party of same name. S. EX. 125 G 82 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. breaking of the ice. Still other, from its well-seasoned appearance, showed that it had been lodged many years. These trees are known to Alaskan pioneers as sweepers, as are those which have the roots fast to the banks, with the trunks and bonghs in the water. Besides these were huge piles of drift timber lodged in the gravel islands. The lodging of trees is continually creating new islands and hence new channels ; the river is constantly and rapidly cutting away banks, and new ones are being formed. High banks were seen which are so recent as to be covered with a growth of very small shrubbery only, while several feet below the surface may be seen the roots and trunks of larger trees, evidently not in situ. At the present time the wearing of the left bank seems to far exceed that of the right, as evidenced by the distance of the river in several places from bluffs on the north side, at the foot of which it rather recently flowed, and by the new channels through the timbered soil on the south side. At 5 p. m. a halt was made for an observation for longitude and to measure the current. The latter, though decidedly less rapid than in many places during the day, was 6 miles per hour. We went into camp at 8 p. m., just below a small tributary on the north side, hav- ing worked ten hours in the boat, most of which was in rapids. The mountains on the left were showing themselves farther from the river and much higher. Camp 9 was left at 6 a. m. to follow the river, now more nearly confined to a single channel. Just below camp were high bluffs on the right and a small stream on the left. Ten miles below camp the river and mountains on the south bank, with high rocky bluffs on the north side, were undoubted indications that other rapids were at hand. I was loath to believe that the Tanana would not be a navigable river, but Tower Bluff Rapids emphatically settles the question, as do Carlisle Rapids, which begin with Johnson River. * This latter stream is in all respects similar to Robertson River, and also marks a decided break in the mountains on the south bank. The high bluffs on the right bank are contemporaneous with those farther up. Several compass observations gave a position for Mount Kimball, a promi- nent snow-covered peak, but not so lofty as the peaks farther to the west and south, seen later. Johnson River is very swift, with abun- dance of ice in its wide bed, and is nearly as large as Robertson River, whose volume probably does not exceed 30 by 3 feet. After nine hours in the boat, during nearly all of which time we were in rapids, we went into Camp No. 10, well tired by the exer- tions made in avoiding shoals, stringers, and drift piles. For an hour during the afternoon so dangerous were the rapids that the steering paddle could not be dropped even sufficiently long to permit a compass observation. * Named after a member of the party. SW. by S. Ang. el. 2^ 40' 21.— Sketch o RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. 83 In order to get a noon observation for latitude, we did not leave Camp 10, June 18, until 1 p. m., when we began "shooting" chan- nels filled in with timber so recently from the banks that the sod around the roots was in many places undisturbed. Eight miles far- ther down were hundreds of trees lodged in the channels and along the banks. About 15 miles below Camp 10 a swift and muddy stream in a single channel empties from the south. This tributary of the Tanana I have called Gerstle River.* It is about fifty feet wide and seems very deep. It marks the end of the rapids, below which the current is about 4 to 5 miles per hour. Four miles below Gerstle River, Goodpaster River, one of the largest tributaries, empties from the north, is 25 yards wide, and has a very swift current, with water similar to the Tanana. At its junc- tion was a deserted fishing station and canoes, the only sign of na- tives seen since leaving Kheeltat's. This river was described by Kheeltat as having houses on it, and large fish in it, which I presume meant salmon. It is probably the limit of the salmon run. It is not strange that there are no inhabitants along that part of the river just described ; such a current would forbid any sort of navigation and would make an undesirable home for even a Tananatana. The smallness of the tributaries of the Tanana is one of its special characteristics. Five miles below this tributary the land near the river on both sides is flat, with a very limited quantity of timber, most of which is dwarf birch. The banks are covered with moss and grass. The lowness of the country caused us to suspect that the Yukon was near, but we were mistaken then and several times later. The only game we had thus far seen on the river, besides one porcu- pine and one gray wolf, was an occasional lynx or rabbit, more sel- dom a pair of geese. Camp 11 was made in a rainstorm, to secure protection against which we sought the densest cottonwood timber, which by this time we had learned to fell and so place as to give the greatest protec- tion. Sometimes, however, the greater part of the night was passed in a pool of water, efforts to better our situation being of no avail. With the exception of a few days on the Chittystone River, we had worn our clothes day and night since March 20. That this, as well as the scanty quantity and unusual quality of food, together with the exposure, assisted in sowing the seeds of scurvy there can be no doubt. On the morning of June 10 we left Camp 11 after having made fche accompanying sketch of the high mountains to the south. Five miles below, a small stream on the left, with a single vacated house at its mouth, was passed. Just below it is the only place where the * Having no natives with us and finding none along this part of the Tanana, we were unable to assign native nam?s to the tributaries. ''■•■*>» -<^K Z SW.byS. An ■: \ tr *% 21.— Sketch op mountains south of TananA River, from a point nine miles above the mouth of Volkmar River. 84 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. river attains as small a width as 80 yards, yet the current at this place (Mason's Narrows) is not more than 5 miles per hour. Four miles below Mason's Narrows, Volkmar River, the first trib- utary in size, empties on the north side. This, too, was a muddy stream, with a rather sluggish current. It was also described to us by Kheeltat as a fish stream. There were no signs of habitation at its junction save the ashes of a camp fire ; though 4 miles below, on the opposite bank, were three houses, one of which was probably used as a winter home. All were unoccupied. Here were graves covered with cotton cloth ; the first monuments of this type we had seen. This method of marking the graves is very common on the Yukon. Four miles below G-oodpaster River is a mountain torrent on the left bank, high cliffs on the right, and the head of Bates Rapids. As soon as we arrived opposite the bluffs the swiftness of the cur- rent was recognized. The river, which just above is in a single chan- nel, spreads until in places it is 1-J miles wide. Fifteen to twenty miles below the head of these rapids there are so many channels that we with difficulty found sufficient water to float our skin boat. The current all day, with the exception of a few miles above these rapids, had an average rate of 5-J to 6 miles per hour. At 6 p. m. we went into Camp 12, having paddled ten and a quarter hours. Two miles below camp on the left bank a small torrent washes through the timbered woods. It possesses a delta mouth to an exag- gerated degree, all filled in with spruce timber. A few hundred yards below it were seen in tents the only natives since leaving Kheeltat's. There were two women and one girl in the party, the men of it being absent for food. These were also the first natives who spoke of the river by the name Tanana. Above this part it is known as JSTabesna River. Their fishing stand was erected and dip-net at hand, but the salmon had not yet arrived; hence a hungry appearance prevailed. Half a mile below there were two fair-looking but unoccupied houses. During the afternoon of the 20th, below Camp 12, large masses of driftwood and sunken soil, with its vegetatio i partly submerged, were passed; yet further down the river seemed to have no bounds, having attained a width, as best we could estimate, of from 3 to 4 miles. After nine and a quarter hours of paddling Camp 13 was made. This was left at 3 a. m. the following morning, June 21. Twenty miles below camp the current is more nearly confined to a single channel and is very much less rapid. On the last part of the run the current was about 3 to 3^ miles per hour. Two small streams (one on each side, as shown on the map) were passed during the day, as well as several fishing stations, none of which were occupied. Our rations of meat and fish had been consumed, and we were living en- tirely on the fat and tallow that had been reserved to fry fresh fish RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 85 in, should it be obtained. After thirteen and a half hours on the water we made camp below the largest house seen on the Tanana, but which had, from its appearance, riot been used for several seasons. There were two flag-poles and several large birch canoes lying near. It is possible that these people, like the Midnooskies, burn or desert the house upon the death of its master. I know no other assignable cause why this house should not have been occupied the previous season. One mile below Camp 14 a small stream was passed on the left; 10 miles below and on the same side, a somewhat larger stream of clear water. Living on tallow only, without any cliance of obtaining even rabbits, was not conducive to cheerfulness of mind, though we were running down stream. After eight hours on the water we were sur- prised to find two small tents on the north bank. All hands paddled with renewed energy towards them, to the consternation of the occu- pants, who, with guns in hands, rushed to the brush. An old man, a woman, and two children remained. From them we obtained forty- two small white dried fish, to be served with the tallow or grease. The weather had become very warm for a few hours during the mid- dle of the days and our diet correspondingly disagreeable. The cur- rent of the river during the day varied from 3 to 5 miles and was generally confined to a single channel. At 9 p. m., having paddled fourteen hours, we halted on a sand- spit in the middle of the river to avoid the mosquitoes, which had now become a great pest. The distance traveled could scarcely be less than 55 miles. During the day several unoccupied fishing sta- tions were passed. The absence of the mountains on the left was marked. From Camp 15 to the mouth of the Toclat River the current varies from 3| to 4 miles per hour, and the river is confined to a single chan- nel, excepting where an occasional wooded island divides it. No mountains are visible on either side. During the run of the 23d (twelve hours) no sign of a house was seen, nor was there any on the 24th until the Toclat River was reached. This river is about 20 to 25 yards wide at its mouth, and is partly the means of communication between the natives of the lower Tanana and the upper Kuskokwim, the second river in size in Alaska. To- clat in the native tongue means dishwater. On its right bank are two summer-houses, and on its left nine, an excellent proof that it is a good river for fishing purposes. It may be well to state here that if the exploration of the upper waters of the Kuskokwim is con- templated, the portage from the Toclat would be the most feasible route. The lower waters of the Kuskokwin were explored by the Russians many years ago, and more recently by Messrs. Petroff an<3 Williams, but its upper waters are yet unknown to white man. The 86 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— vALLEN. Toclat flows along the foot of a minor range of mountains on its left bank, whose bearing is NE. and SW. Two miles below it a camp of natives en route up the Tanana was reached. These had on hand a little meat and plenty of fresh king salmon, the first of the season. Our condition had already become serious, and had we not obtained food when we did from these na- tives we would have been in a most sad state on reaching the Yukon. Had we started down the Tanana two weeks earlier the probabilities are that we would not have seen a single native on the river. It must be remembered that Nandell's, Tetling's, and Kheeltat's people live on small streams away from the river, as do probably all the in- habitants during the springtime. The camp of natives we had just passed was the following of Ivan, the most influential Tyone of the lower Tanana. Their appearance in camp, at the very edge of the water, with thirty-five to forty birch canoes of all sizes fastened to the shore, the abundance of the rich-colored king salmon, split and hung up over the water, out of reach of the numerous dogs that had gone hungry most of the winter, was picturesque in the extreme. Their surround- ings were luxurious when compared to ours. It seemed that we had never seen bedding look so clean and comfortable, or the colors of calico so fresh. They were indeed cleanly when compared to us. We felt sure that we must be near the place whence their merchan- dise had come, and where plenty awaited us. Ivan's following con- sisted of thirty-five men, twenty women, and twenty children. N About 20 miles below Toclat River is the log house once used by Mr. Harper as a trading station also the scene of Mrs. Bean's murder while her husband was a fur trader there. Several miles above, the river follows along the foot of slaty bluffs, which show the last range through which the Tanana cuts. After passing them it becomes very wide and sluggish, with sometimes several channels. The volume of water is very great, as proved by the 20-foot sounding above Toclat River, where the river is 1,000 yards. The run of the 24th was ten hours in a current not greater than 3-J- miles per hour. On the 25th we left the last camp on the Tanan£, and after eight and one-half hours on the water were at the Yukon, a fact we did not recognize until informed by a woman, who halted us 2 miles below the junction by firing a gun. We had supposed there was a place called Nukliikyet (Nuklukahyet, Nuclucayette), as shown on the most recent map, at the junction of the Yukon and Tanana. It is merely the ground where the natives formerly assembled for trading purposes. Where we halted were two women and three children, who informed us that Nukilerai was below, Nukluhyet above. Nukilerai is the name by which the natives know the trading station. Having obtained a canoe, Pete and my- RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 87 self, with one of the women as guide, went back to the junction to find not even a fishing station. Furthermore, the woman, in her Russo-Yukon dialect, informed us, much to our chagrin, that ' ' Nu- kilerai, Kooshat natoo, chai natoo," which meant that there was no food or tea at the trading station below. It was too true. We im- mediately set out for this place, which will in the future be called Nukliikyet, in accordance with the name now applied to it by the traders of the river. We arrived at 2.30 a. m., where we received a cordial welcome from the half-breed, Andrew (Androosky), left in charge. The sub- sistence stores at the station consisted of about 3 dozen hard crackers, 3 quarts of beans, 20 pounds of flour, a little salt, and some machine oil. The steamboats Yukon, owned by the Alaska Commercial Company, and New Racket, owned by Messrs. Harper, McQuisten Mayo, traders, were vainly expected up the river from Saint Michael's in ten or twelve days ; during their absence we must live on fish fried in machine oil. Fortunately, the morning of our arrival two miners, who had win- tered on the Yukon, Messrs. La Due and Franklin, arrived from the Upper Yukon with about 75 pounds of flour, 50 of which they kindly let us have. This lasted four days, though used very economically. NUKLUKYET TO NULATO AND RETURN. On arriving at Nuklukyet steps were at once taken to rate our watch and to determine our position. A few days later the watch stopped on account of the butt of regulator having slipped off the hair spring and out of its normal position. This having been re- placed, rating was again attempted in spite of cloudy and rainy weather. On such expeditions at least three members of the party should be provided with pocket chronometers or best-grade watches. While stopping at Isuklukyet we depended on fish for nourishment until after the arrival of the steamboats. The run of the king sal- mon was almost ended. After them came the dog, then the silver, then the hump-back salmons, and with all a few whitefish. It must not be inferred from this that all of the kinds of salmon could not be taken on the same day, but that the advance guard of each arrive in the order named. The natives from Tanana, Fort Yukon, and the Koyukuk began to arrive by the last of June on their usual trading and pleasure ex- peditions. On July 4 the station was indeed thronged with natives, all of whom were disposed to be sociable and to help to share our small apartments. Once divested of its novelty their society was not to be envied. They indulged in jumping, wrestling, and a game of ball peculiar to themselves. To show their patriotism a grand firing of guns announced July 4, a flag was immediately run up the newly-made pole, and a general shouting and dancing indulged in. In their zeal they had begun their salute before midnight of July 3. At noon we fired a national salute ; and in the evening was a general dance, followed by special native dances. The arrival of an old man from the settlement a few miles above was the occasion of an ex- planation and apology from me for having broken into his caches. When told that hunger had been the cause and that a reparation would be made on the arrival of the steamboats, lie replied that his people would do the same when hungry, and left satisfied. Saturday, July 11, with Joseph La Due and the Tyone's son, I left Nukliikyet to meet the steamboat, which was daily expected. That portion of the Yukon traveled during this canoe voyage has been run in with the compass observations taken by me, and differs but little from the same on the chart prepared by Captain Raymond, 18G9. Our first camp was at the trading station, %\ miles above the Nowi- kakat River and on the north bank. The agent, Mr. Cochrein, a 89 90 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. Russian, like all the traders of the river, was at Saint Michael's, or rather on the way up the river from that base of supplies. The picture represents the station in winter. We had passed the Melozikakat River, the largest tributary enter- ing from the north between the Tanana and Kdyukuk Rivers. La Due prospected on it for about 75 miles. It may be well to state here that I did not keep a record of all the islands passed on the river, as I did later on the Koyukuk, because I assumed this had been previ- ously done. The river has frequent wooded islands, but they are not so numerous that they could not be approximately located in such a running survey. The Nowikakat, claimed by some to be 400 miles long, is the largest tributary of the Yukon, excepting the Tanana and White Rivers, en- tering it on the south side. There has been some mining claims lo- cated on it by Mr. Cochrein. It is a stream of considerable propor- tions and should be mapped, though, judging from the topography of the country, I do not think its length can exceed 250 miles. It would be navigable quite a distance with a small steam-launch. Native settlements are frequent along this portion of the river. We passed daily three to five, each of which contained twelve to twenty souls. From some of these we obtained a few berries or young ducks, or perhaps a handful of flour, all of which, with the activity necessitated by traveling, probably saved me from the scurvy and other sickness, with which the party was suffering at Nukliikyet. For the food obtained along the route I could only promise payment on the arrival of the steamboat, which we were continually looking forward to. The farther we descended the river the more fish we found, but in other respects the more poverty-stricken the natives. This is explained by the scarcity of game, consequently the fewness of skins with which to clothe themselves and to barter for white man's clothing materials and household conveniences. On the night of July 14 we landed at Nulato, after a run of 201 miles. There are three Nulatos, viz: Lower, Middle, and Upper. The former was used as a station during the Russian rule, but after having been burned, Upper Nulato, where we stopped, was chosen and used until abandoned this year. The middle settlement is on the small stream which empties half a mile above the lower village and one mile below the upper. It was the post of the so-called "op- position company," and used by that corporation until its retirement from the country. Nearly all the natives of Yukon, certainly all that can afford it, use tents during the summer time. They possess the advantage of portabilty and are more effective than the summer houses in keeping out mosquitoes. I have, however, occasionally seen mosquito bars swung in a tent. The delay at Nulato was very exasperating, so as soon as we heard that the New Racket had stopped below, somewhere near Kal tag's, 92 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. descended it. Several stops were made for the purpose of taking on wood, and once, at Nowikakat station, to nnload the merchandise destined for it. The illustration represents the natives felling the dead timbers to be used by the steamboats. It is very interesting to watch the natives engaged in an industry comparatively new in their history, and to observe the skill that some of them display. Those living nearest the coast are considered the best laborers, while the value of those farther up is inversely proportional to the distance from the sea. On reaching, Nuklukyet, July 26, I found, to my sur- prise, Sergeant Robertson and John in a critical condition from scurvy, and Fickett and Pete looking as though suffering from a severe sick- ness. The continual fish diet had become nauseating to them and was working disaster by complicating diseases. It was gratifying to see how rapidly the party began to recuperate on wholesome food. Until the steamboats passed on up the river there was a general uproar, the natives shouting with pleasure one hour, the next threatening the extermination of the whites on the Yukon. Men that had agreed to go with me to the Koyukuk now deserted me. The Kdyukuks, who were so anxious at first to have me go and to assist me, refused all connection with the undertaking. While at Nuklukyet I had several conversations with the principal natives through interpreters. They expressed a desire to have schools among them and industries that would give occupation to the young men whereby they could earn money. These expressions I recalled to the quasi chief, " Spot," when his following refused to accompany me to the Koyukuk. It was not entirely without effect ; yet I must give each $1 per day and his food, also canoes for transportation of all from Nulato back to Nuklukyet. NARRATIVE OF KOYUKUK RIVER, Having purchased the necessary supplies, I supposed the start for the Kdyukuk could be made without the usual inconveniences inci dent to the beginning of journeys with Indians. Not so, however; for on the morning of July 28, when ready to move, I found that all but the three smallest Kdyukuks had left Nukhikyet during the night and that the four Yukon River natives declined to go. After considerable delay, the necessary number of Indians were ob- tained, and also two large dogs in addition to the three that had been packed across Miles' Pass. Fickett was the only one of the original party to accompany me. John Bremner and Peder Johnson chose to remain on the Yukon to continue prospecting during the remainder of the summer. They contemplated leaving the country the follow- ing year, either by the headwaters of Yukon and over Schwatka Pass to Chilcat, or else by the mouth of the Yukon to Saint Michael's, and trust to the kindness of the commanding officer of the revenue cutter for transportation to the States. Sergeant Robertson was to go to Saint Michael's on the return trip of the steamboat Yukon, which was to wait at Nulato for Fickett and myself until August 23. There were two ways of reaching the Kdyukuk River that were feasible : one up the Tozikakat in canoes to near its head, thence by a short portage to the Konootena, a tributary of Kdyukuk, and down it to that river ; the other by descending the Yukon about six miles, thence by portage nearly N. by E. across the Yukon Mount- ains of the present charts to the Konootena River, and by descending it as above. When the journey is made during winter, a still dif- ferent trail is used, starting due north from Nuklukyet. If the Tozi- kakat route be traveled it can be reached in canoes via the Yukon, oil >y a portage to it from Nuklukyet, the canoes being carried. Wl ale at Nuklukyet I sent out a party of natives to hunt bear on the Tozi- kakat, and they reached it in the latter manner. Inasmuch as the Kdyukuks themselves had used the second named route, I decided upon it. One of the barges that had formed pari of tlic tow of the steamboat Yukon was left in charge of Mr. Cochrein, to betaken as far as Nowikakat, and in this transportation was ob- tained to the point of departure on the Yukon River, <> miles below. I now had 7 natives and 5 dogs packed with food, the average pack of the native being 50 pounds, that of the dog 25. Fickett and my- 93 94 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. self were in light marching order, carrying only our instruments and weapons. The bedding for both of us consisted of a piece of water- proof linen, the remnant of a sleeping-bag used on the Copper River, and a single blanket. The description of the hordes of mosquitoes described by Lieu- tenant Schwatka as existing on the Lower Yukon is not only appli- cable to those of that part of the Territory, but also to those of the country north of it, even to beyond the Arctic Circle. Our start for the Koyukuk was just at the zenith of the " sand fly" season. Why this gnat, which exists where there is not now nor ever was any sand, should be so called, I can only attribute to the astuteness of the pioneers. Some consider them a worse pest than the mosquitoes. There are at least two varieties, differing very much in size. The party left the Yukon, at the mouth of a very small stream, at 3 p. m. , July 28, and in a very short time was ascending to a high ridge, which it endeavored to follow. We were supposed to follow a trail, but if any existed in many places and for long distances it was more than we could detect, though having already had considerable erperience in such matters. A trail on the plains means quite a dif- ferent thing from some of the so-called trails of Alaska. The trail from the Copper to the Tanana is in many places well worn, due perhaps to the travel of the moose as well as the natives over it, but the moss over which most of this route lay showed no breaks, save an occasional displacement due to the passing of the party of Koy- ukuns who were preceding us. There were many blueberries and a few salmon berries along the way. After a journey of 10 miles we went into camp where a small quantity of timber and water could be obtained. We depended for guides on the Koyukuns, whose efforts seemed to be directed towards following along the high ridges. Upon these the timber is dwarfed and scarce and water obtainable only in small pools. On the highest ridges no vegetation of any description exists. We left camp the following morning in such a thick fog that a man could barely be seen at a distance of twenty yards. This fog continued all day, accompanied part of the while by rain, all of it by a strong wind from WSW. We halted at 1 p. m. to eat some hard bread, no wood being procurable for cooking. Here we found that we had wandered from our course to the westward. After eating we endeavored to correct our mistake, and at the end of a two hour's march in the fog were at the head of a tributary of the Tozi- kakat that bore east. The country, except where there is no soil, as along the highest ridges, is covered with a heavy growth of vegeta- tion, such as mosses, lichens, &c. Within a radius of 3 feet I counted eleven different varieties of plants. The rock of the barren ridges is largely fragmentary and granitic, with occasional pieces of RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 95 nearly pure quartz. Our general course during the early day was, as near as the fog would allow me to determine, N. i° W. ; from noon to the tributary, NNE. A few minutes after sighting the Tozika- kat tributary on our right we came in view of one of the Melozika- kat on our left and were of course on the divide between them. This we followed in a NE. by K direction around to NW. by N., and went into camp on a tributary of the tributary recently seen. The heads of all the streams are surrounded by timber, and here we found no exception. Our camp was in a grove of larger timber than any seen since leaving the Yukon. One tree, a spruce, was nearly 2 feet in diameter. July 30 we left camp in a similar fog to that of preceding day. After traveling an hour beyond tributaries of Tozikakat the coun- try became less marked by ridges, our course being over swampy grounds that characterize so much of the territory of Alaska, even on high elevations. Over this ground the footing is miserable, the hummocks or tetes de femmes offer a very uncertain hold for the feet. To walk between them is to walk continually in water of un- even depth, which consequently is very tiresome. The hummocks are covered with grass, moss, bush-birch, or blueberry bushes. Sometimes all of them grow there, with an addition of an occasional very small spruce. Surrounding our camp was an extensive flat that had comparatively recently been burnt over, and a few small lakes. The cold wind and fog, though disagreeable, were welcomed as a preventive against the gnats and mosquitoes. There was no sign of a trail during the day. The natives unanimously agreed that six more days would be neces- sary to reach the Koyukuk. They were informed that rations would not be issued at the end of the fourth day. They believed it. We reached the river at the end of the fourth day. The march of the 31st was quite similar to that of the previous day, except that the swampy grounds were more difficult to cross and the lakes more numerous. In many places for long distances we waded up to our knees. The day's march was about 16 miles and the general direction NNE. $° N. The ability of the natives to follow a trail and their keenness of eyesight is shown by the following in- cident of the day. Early in the forenoon the field glasses dropped from their case, but were not missed for probably several hours afterwards. I never ex- pected to recover them, so threw the case to a native. After a few minutes, consultation among themselves it was agreed that one of them should go back for the much-coveted article. I never sus- pected that he would be able to find them and doubted whether lie would be able to follow our trail. At 7 o'clock in the evening he was sighted 2 miles in our rear, and an hour later he joined us in camp with the glasses. 96 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. Three miles south of camp we crossed a tributary of the Melozi- kakat, the largest seen by us, 40 feet wide and 4 feet deep. Our first efforts were directed towards extemporizing a raft. While en- gaged in the work, one of the Koyukuns, a deaf-mute, found a fallen spruce tree that was used as a bridge. August 1 the route lay over higher ground, with better footing. After four hours walking we reached the trail from the Tozikakat to the north, which we followed without difficulty. Three miles far- ther we crossed a small tributary of the Melozikakat, where the Koyukuns on their visit south had made a cache of some meat and fish. From this fact I inferred our portage was about half completed. During the afternoon we crossed yet another tributary of the Melozi- kakat, the last of that much seen river. The last 5 miles of the days' march bore N. 15° W. The distance traveled was 26 miles, the longest march made by us in any one day while in the Territory. The march the following day was, however, nearly as long. The cold, cloudy weather was favorable to moving along rapidly, while the wind helped to relieve us from the torments of the myriads of gnats and mosquitoes. At the end of the day's march the natives informed us that but two days would be required to reach the Ko- nootena. The following day in the forenoon we were on a ridge from which tributaries of it were visible. We had crossed the so-called Yukon Mountains and had nowhere seen hills higher than 2,000 to 2,500 feet in height. Their highest points were devoid of snow. From our position were seen two small tributaries, one on each side, emptying into Tatatontly Lake. The ^outlet of this lake has the euphoneous name of Mentanontlekakat. The bearing of the river was N. 3° E. We halted for dinner on its left bank, near a most miserable house used by some Koyukuns during the season of fish in the lake. After dinner we crossed the river and ascended a ridge, from which the lake was visible. Its length is probably 3 to 4 miles. Besides it, 55 small lakes were seen from our prominent position. Our packers were young and anxious to test their own endurance as well as ours; so about 7 o'clock in the evening a running race for a full half hour, packs on the back, was indulged in. They stopped satisfied that we were able to keep apace with them, though I must confess that it was the most stubborn contest I ever engaged in, and more than once I regretted having made the start. The last third of the day's march, 7 miles, was NNE. At 8 p. m. camp was made, the wind was gone, mosquitoes numerous. Our shelter tent of three widths of cotton cloth was thrown over an elongated ' ' wickyup, " which was then made mosquito proof by putting moss around the sides and on the edges of the cloth. In this house Fickett and myself nightly sought repose. It was always constructed after the bedding was made down, because it was too low to permit any other order of arrangement. RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 97 We left camp August 3 at 5.30, and for four hours trod over a marshy soil to the junction of the Mentanontlekakat and Konootena Rivers. On arriving there several shots were fired to notify the vil- lagers on the Konootena one-half mile above, of our approach In a few minutes canoes came down the river and we were paddled up it to a village of five men. three women, and five children, situated on its left bank. The river at this place is about 30 yards wide and 5 or 6 feet deep, with a current of 44 miles per hour, "We had made the march from Nuklukyet, in latitude 65° 8', longitude 152° 30', to Konoo- tena village, in latitude 66" 18', longitude 151° 45', a distance in a right line of 87 miles, by the trail at least 120 miles, in six and a half days. Considering the nature of the footing, this was a very unusual march and could not have been accomplished had not our packs been small and the weather cooler than that of many a day passed on the Yukon. It is a mistaken impression that so far north there can be no warm weather. During the middle of the day in midsummer, when the sun is shining, the heat is felt almost as much as it is in the Middle States. In running down the Tanana River I was ten days without foot- gear of any description, and suffered no discomfort. At the village of Konootena, about 10 miles south of the Arctic Circle, likewise at the village of Nohoolchintna, about 15 miles north of it, nearly all natives were barefooted. While traveling, however, protection of some kind is necessary for the feet. KONOOTENA RIVER TO FICKETT RIVER. At Konootena we had the usual difficulty in trading with the natives. At last two birch canoes were obtained, the Koyukuns discharged, and with our Yukon natives we started down the stream. After a run of .about 14 miles in a direction MW. -J-° W. we reached the Koyukuk River, astonished to find such a great volume of water. Before leaving Kuklukyet the Keyukuns had informed us that its source could be reached by canoe in six days from the mouth of the Konootena. After seeing it with its current of nearly I miles per hour. I realized this to be impossible unless its headwaters are the outlets of enormous lakes. The Koyukuk, where we first saw it, was in a single channel about 300 yards wide, with high banks, covered with moss and burnt spruce on north side. Accompanying us were three canoes, containing each a man. Later a family, consisting of husband, wife, and small boy, in two canoes, joined us. The head of the family here, as on the Yukon, travels alone in a small canoe, while the wife and children travel in a large one. The two canoes we were using were " squaw" canoes. We immediately adopted the novel system of propelling them used by our traveling companions. We followed along the bank as closely as possible, where the current was least, and with S. Ex. 125 7 98 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. light sticks in hand pushed the canoes forward. Fickett and my- self, with two natives each, had a canoe, hence each canoe had three pairs of sticks for propellers. The sticks were put in the water about as many times per minute as the average oarsman would put in his oar in rowing. If properly skilled in the way of using these sticks there need be no trouble in steering. The bottom of the Koyukuk was well adapted for this sort of work, owing to its firm- ness. Nowhere in the river did we find quicksands. In this respect . it presented a marked contrast to the Copper and Tanana Rivers, and resembled in many respects that portion of the Yukon between the Ramparts and Nulato. We found the water in the river at a high stage, due probably to the recent excessive rains. I cannot think that the highest stage of water is coexistent with the greatest melting of snow on the mount- ains of its headwaters, for this had taken place several weeks pre- viously. Camp August 3 was made 7 miles above the mouth of the Ko- nootena, on its south bank, at the foot of a knoll from which high hills to the northward could be seen. Once, while on the trail, hills partially snow covered, north of the Koyukuk and near it, were seen. With this exception no snow had been seen since leaving Nuklukyet. During the night of the 3d, between 8 p. m. and 6 a. m. , the river rose 18 inches. During the day and night of the 4th it fell 24 inches. It fell 10 inches on the night of August G; rose inches the follow- ing night, 13 the following, and fell 6 the next night. These radical ^changes in its stage in such short periods are readily enough accounted for when it is remembered that the entire face of the country is covered with a deep moss, nearly as thoroughly saturated as a wet sponge, and that but a few inches below this is a bed of rock, frozen ground, or ice that prevents the water sinking. This condition of affairs exists in a more marked degree the farther north they are noticed. The rises in the river above considered were all preceded by rain in our own locality. From the mouth of Konootna River up to the Allenkakat River frequent islands were passed, the position of nearly all of which is recorded on the map. The mouth of Allenkakat is in approximate latitude 66° 37', longi- tude 151° 16'. Below it is a very high cut bank of clay, called by the natives Unatlotly. Why this should receive a name when prom- inent mountain peaks did not I could not ascertain. On the right bank was a miserable barabarra and a spruce-bough tepee — the one a winter house, the other a summer one, but neither occupied. The Indian with family who accompanied us was an old man. He had, as he said, been more than once over the mountains in which this tributary heads, to a rather small river, Basnuna, then down it to a large river, the Holoatna. He mapped out the Allenkakat, show- ing it to have five tributaries. He said it would require five days RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. 99 paddling up it before beginning the portage, which would also take five days. The large river to which the portage is made is doubtless the Kowuk, which Lieutenant Cantwell, U. S. Revenue Marine, as- cended during summer of 1885, and on which Lieutenant Stoney, U. S. Navy, is now encamped. At the junction it was difficult at first to decide whether the Allenkakat or the Koyukuk was the larger. The former can be ascended quite a distance in a steam launch, pro- vided no falls exist. Below the Unatlotly the land on the north side near the river is for 5 miles very low and partly submerged. We went into camp August 4 on an island 18 miles above last camp and 6 miles above the mouth of Allankakat, where I found a single bone, the os pubis, of the mammoth, partially imbedded in the alluvial soil. It was not in position, but had evidently been carried there by the water. It was in a fair state of preservation and to all appear- ances had never undergone any process of petrification. Here we made a cache of 50 pounds of flour and 8 or 10 pounds of bacon. These were made fast to the end of a long cottonwood pole, hoisted and allowed to rest against a standing tree. Other trees were cut so that by falling against the cache tree they afforded protection to the provisions and at the same time helped to mark the place. Along this part of the river the current seemed less than above or below; a short distance above is a decided horseshoe bend with low land on each side. Five miles below Camp August 5 is the small stream Sohjeklakakat, emptying from the north. Mount Cone was visible for first time when near the mouth of this stream. Though probably not more than 2,000 feet high, it is a very prominent land- mark in this locality, as is also a double-pointed mountain bearing NNW. This and Mount Cone were all that could be seen from our low position of the ranges to which they belonged. At 8.40 we went into camp thinking we had traveled a distance of 30 miles. When plotted it measured just 20, a discrepancy that frequently occurs, whether the travel be on foot or in boat, whether it be ascending or descending. We left camp in a cold rain storm that continued all day. At 4 p. m. we were at the mouth of the jSTohoolchintna River, on which is situated an Indian village about equal in size to Konootena village, and from the natives' reports is about the same distance from the Koyukuk as is the former. This is the village towards which our camarades de voyage, the Koyukuns, were making. It is about 80 miles by the rivers from Konootena village, and is the last settle- ment on the Koyukuk, though the river extends probably 200 miles farther. Before permitting the Koyukuns to leave us, further in- quiries were made with regard to the headwaters of the river. The old man informed us that it would require three short or two long days' work to reach the Ascheeshna, a tributary emptying on right bank. In this he was right. He claimed that it would require fifteen days to reach the second tributary. Totzunbitna, also flowing in on 100 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. the right bank. This I. doubted, and so expressed myself to the old man, who insisted that he was right, further strengthening his state- ments by holding up his bare feet and counting the days' marches on his toes. Furthermore, he claimed that it would require thirty days to reach the headwaters of the Koyukuk. Whether his latter state- ments be correct is a matter for future explorers to determine. The other tributaries named in their order by the old man are Klakasiuka and Nuzuntotakyuhoo, on left bank; Ezozwatna, on right bank; and Hoochitna, the last tributary or river itself. I have indi- cated these in dotted lines on the map. Our dogs could in the future be of no value to us, and on the other hand would consume much food if kept with us, so one was given to the natives, two killed, and two retained to be taken to the States. Having passed the mouth of the Nohoolchintna, we paddled and poled for two and a half hours to make a distance of 3 miles, where we went into camp. Our Yukon natives, in a strange country, were now be- coming very timid, worked indifferently, and begged to be allowed to go -back. All refused to eat supper. A few hours after reaching camp three natives from the Nohoolchintna village joined us, bring- ing several dogs and one or two king salmon to barter. Their arrival seemed to have somewhat relieved the minds of our Yukon natives, who were willing to eat some breakfast. When it became necessary to leave camp in the cold rain they again became faint-hearted and sullen. During the afternoon we passed high rocky banks on our left, which were of dark sandstone, much broken. Later some islands, above which the river was half a mile wide, were passed. After making 12 miles we went into camp 8 miles below the north end of Moore Island, in approximate latitude 66° 54', longitude 150° 27'. In the afternoon of the following day we had the first view of snow-covered mountains, the highest of which, as we then saw them, bore about one point south of west. Later the range appeared to have a course east and west. A smaller range of mountains was visible between the river and the snow-covered one, and is quite sim- ilar to the highest land between the Yukon and Tanana, and I have called it Beck's Hills. Before going into camp snow-covered mount- ains became visible anywhere within an area of 50°. Several com- pass observations of Mount Cone served to locate it. A snow-covered mountain to its east showed Mount Cone to form a peak of the foot- hills of the principal range. About 10 miles above Moore Island, on the right bank, were the graves of several natives. The river had washed the bank away until the crosses which marked some of them were tottering, ready to fall into the water. We went into camp on a small island near the foot of Beck's Hills, after having traveled thirteen hours and having ascended the river 23 miles. The channel above the Allenkakat is much more divided by islands than below, and the river has a much more rapid current, RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 1Q1 The trees of this locality are indeed dwarfed, and are limited to spruces, cottonwoods, alders, willows, and some birches. Their foliage had already begun to show the effects of frost. This camp was about 67° 10' latitude, 150° 30' in longitude. We left the next morning with prospects for a clear day, a cold wind blowing from the snow-covered mountains. About half an hour later we were en- abled to get an observation for longitude, the first for several days on account of the rainy weather. Three miles above camp we were at the mouth of the Ascheeshna or Fickett River. Up . to this time no diminution in the volume of water in the river was apparent, notwithstanding we had passed three tributaries, one of which appeared nearly as large as itself. We were beyond the habitations of the natives, in a country of little game, with about 8 pounds of rice and beans, 10 pounds of flour,, 3 pounds of bacon, and 2 pounds of lard. It is true we had a cache of 60 pounds of food 68 miles below, yet we did not know what to expect before reaching Nulato. After ascending the Ascheeshna for 5 miles a halt was made to take an observation for latitude at our highest point, 67° 16'. The average width of this river is about 100 to 125 yards, with a depth near its mouth of 14 feet. Having become sat- isfied that this river would be navigable for many miles, we started down it to halt below its mouth, where the Koyukuk had 18 to 20 feet of water in it. We ascended Mount Lookout to get, if possible, the general course of the rivers and the mountains. From its summit, about 800 to 1,000 feet above the river, we obtained a splendid view of the valley of the Ascheeshna and the mountains in which it rises. The extreme mountains whence it comes appeared to be 60 to 80 miles from us in a right-line course. The highest peaks I should judge are about 4,000 feet high and were snow-covered one-third the distance to their bases. The valley presented no marked contrast to other valleys previously described save in the absence of lakes. Its general course is NNE. The bearing of the farthest visible water of the Koyukuk from Mount Lookout is NE.by E. For about 6 miles the river bears NE. i° N., then for about 15 miles it bends towards Mount Cone (bearing E. by N.), thence by many turns to NE. by E. The more abundant growth of timber along the water enabled its course to be approxi- mately traced. The mountains from which it seems to come are much farther away than those of the Ascheeshna, though doubtless the same. They appeared, as far as the eye, aided with field-glasses, could determine, to become lower to eastward, though not to west- ward. A break in the mountains bearing NE .was seen at a distance of 20 to 30 miles. It is possible that this marks the valley of the Totzunbitna, described by the old Koyukun. There are no lakes visible on either side of the Koyukuk. The mountains extended down but a short distance between the two rivers. 102 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. FICKETT RIVER TO HUGGIN'S ISLAND. At 4 o'clock we made for our canoes, glad to get rid of the mosqui- toes and sand flies, which were more numerous on the high land than near the water. At 5. 30 we started down stream, ' ' bound for home. " In a few minutes we met a Mahlemute (Eskimo) in a patched and much-worn canoe, heading for headwaters of the Ascheeshna River, thence over the mountains to where there were "plenty Mahlemutes. " Our natives being unable to converse with him, obtained little in- formation. His first request was for cartridges for his old model' Winchester rifle, which had been furnished by the Arctic whalers. As best we could learn, he had been down to Nohoolchintna on a trading expedition. He had quite a supply of dried salmon, some of which we obtained in exchange for tobacco. Having been informed by the traders from Saint Michael's that Lieutenant Cantwell, IT. S. Revenue Marine, would cross from the Kowuk to the Kdyukuk and descend it, I surmised that this old Mahlemute had acted as his guide. It was impossible to make him understand us, so we parted none the wiser on that subject. He had a small skin bag filled with the crys- tals of iron pyrites, which he brought forth doubtless imagining he had a treasure. When informed that they were valueless he gave them to our boatmen, who carefully carried them to the Yukon. The run down to the junction of the Konootena was uneventful. On the morning of the 10th we passed some women and children from the Nohoolchintna, en route to the Allenkakat for fish. They were miserably clad and yet worse sheltered from the cold rain. To keep her child warm a mother put it next to her skin, by raising it over her head and dropping it down the enlarged neck aperture of her parkie. From these women we learned that the old Mahlemute we had met the preceding day lived on a tributary of the Holoatna. We went into camp at 6.15 p. m., 2 miles below the Allenkakat, having traveled about 40 miles. We had stopped at our cache, which had been undisturbed during our absence. The following morning we were again at the mouth of the Konootena, 468 miles from ISTul^to. As we descended in latitude a marked difference in temperature was observed. We no longer had the cold winds from the snow mountains. At 1 p. m. we went into camp 17 miles below the Konootena and almost due west from it, unwilling to run further without observation for longitude. During the run of August 12 (46 miles) seventeen islands were passed, the largest of which is Waite's Island. * Thirty-seven different courses were followed, the river varying in width from 250 to 400 yards. The map, though * Called in honor of Miss Waite, of Washington City, who has evinced a marked interest in the development of Alaska. RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 103 constructed on a scale of 4 miles to the inch, is too small to show all the islands. At 20 miles below mouth of Konootena were high bluffs of dark sandstone. Five miles below the sandstone bluffs appears a very peculiar high red hill, barren of vegetation. It was not unlike some of the buttes of the ' ' Bad Lands " of Dakota and Montana. I have called it Red Mountain. As we descended broods of young ducks and geese were frequently met with, and our fare correspondingly increased and improved. Above the Nohoolchintna scarcely a water bird was seen, but from this time forward we succeeded in killing from three to fifteen daily with scarcely any delay, and this while seated in canoes armed with one miserable shot-gun and a carbine. The run of the 13th was 28 miles SW. by S. to approximate latitude 65° 44'. Camp was opposite Huggin's Island,* 14 miles long. Coming in from the north side, Batzakakat River is reported. We could not see it on account of the island. If it exists, it is the only tributary within a distance of 181 miles. HUGGIN'S ISLAND TO KOTEELKAKAT RIVER. Ten miles below our camp we found a summer encampment of natives, Batzakakat, ten in number, including men, women, and children. Their nearest neighbors in an easterly direction are the inhabitants of the Konootena village, 200 miles distant. From these natives we obtained quite a supply of fish, dried during the present season and stored away for winter use. Men, women, and children escorted us to the cache on an island 1 mile down stream to see that the bartering was properly done. After leaving Batzakakat village the river runs southwest 15 miles, then northwest 10 miles, with high rock bluffs most of the distance along the right bank. In the middle of the channel is an occasional high, rocky island, partially timber covered. Further the course is west for 8 miles, then west north- west 15 miles. Below this the river runs in a most tortuous course to the Yukon, its meanderings equaling those of the Lower Missis- sippi. We halted for the night. after a run of 63 miles, which put us in longitude 150° 03'. A few miles above our camp the right bank of the river for a short distance was ice, covered with soil to a depth of 4 or 5 feet. The topography of the adjacent country is such as to permit an explanation of its presence similar to that given by either one of two theories laid down in the appendix to ''Beechey's Voyage to the Pacific and Behring's Strait." Twenty-five miles below the ice banks the Hogatzakakat empties from the north with a volume of water somewhat less than that of the upper tributaries, on which the villages are situated. A few miles below are high banks * Named after E. L. Huggins, Captain Second United States Cavalry, for a long time a resident of the Territory and a warm friend of the expedition. 104 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. of stone, rich in color, and intersected with small veins of quartz. Twelve miles below the Hogatzakakat River we fonnd a family of Mahlemutes, five in number, encamped on a gravel beach. They were decidedly the most abject, poverty-stricken natives seen since we had left the headwaters of the Copper River. None of the family had clothing of any description from the thighs down, and the small quantity of it they did possess was made of caribou skin, greasy and ragged. Their livelihood was a precarious one, they depended for food chiefly on young water fowls, secured by means of a tri-tined spear. They doubtless had caches of dried salmon somewhere in the vicinity, but we saw none. They pointed to the high mountains to the north, indicating at the same time that they would cross them when the litter of pups they were training had grown larger. Their dwelling was the only one of its kind that I saw in the Territory. It was pyramidal in shape and covered in with spruce bark. At a dis- tance it resembled a much-smoked tepee of the Plain Indians, or else the house constructed of drift-timber over the dead by the Mahle- mutes of the coast. At 4 o'clock we were at the beginning of Treat's Island, which seemed to equally divide the water of the river. We were in doubt as to the channel to take. The natives decided the question and we passed along the northern side. The distance traveled by us in pass- ing from its extreme eastern to western point was 28 miles, while the actual right-line distance between the same is but 10. Since plotting the map the. natural inference is that we selected the longer route. Along the northern part of this island a portage of 1 mile would have saved travel by water of 12. We stopped for the night on the island 5 miles above an Indian camp of two men, three women, and six children. Between their camp and ours the Dakliakakat River empties, and from it the trail starts over to the Holooatna. It has been suggested that if a route be found over the mountains north of the Kdyukuk, it might be used by shipwrecked sailors when unable to reach Saint Michael's by the coast on account of ice. This supposes also the loss of their provisions. The routes exist — in fact, three — but an attempt to reach supplies at Saint Michael's, trusting to food to be procured from the natives along the route, would be fraught with more serious danger than a division of the party and the passing of the winter among the Eskimos. The most westerly peak of the mountains to the north and near the trail is uniformly pyramidal in shape, and is doubtless a land- mark to the natives. On the morning of the 16th we passed the mouth of a small stream, Dotlekakat, near which was a camp of Koyukuns, consisting of two men, one of whom was blind, three women, and seven children. In the afternoon a camp of seventeen souls was also passed, the only one whose inhabitants offered to donate a I A 28. — Red Shirt, Koyukun "Medicine Man" and Tyone. (Taken at St. Michael's on a Russian howitzer. RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. 105 fish. They vied with each other in giving the greatest amount. Yet later in the afternoon we passed another camp of one man, two women, and five children, almost opposite the most northerly end of Cumberland Island. We halted for the night a few miles above the Husliakakat River, the largest tributary south of Allenkakat River. It is 100 yards wide and enters the Koyukuk almost at a right angle. There is an Indian village situated somewhere on its waters, though its position is not known. Below this tributary the river runs in zigzag courses south to Cawtaskakat River, a distance of 42 miles. The Doggetlooskat River, 12 miles above the latter, empties from the west in latitude 65° 38'. While its mouth is but 10 miles by land from the most northern point of Colwell Bend, by river it is 40. For two days no mountains were seen on either side of the river save the apparently short range to the northward, containing the pyramidal mountain. The river in places was from 600 to 800 yards wide, its current not greater than 3i miles. The Cawtaskakat is reported to head in a large lake, around which a few natives live. Eight miles below the Cawtaskakat and 3 miles below the Dulbeka- kat is the metropolis of the Koyukuk River, the home of a famous medicine man, Red Shirt, who was implicated in the massacre at Xulato in 1851. when Lieutenant Barnard, of Her Majesty's Navy, lost his life. I had met him a few weeks previous, on the Yukon River, en route to his home from a trading expedition to Saint Michael's. On arriving at his village we learned that he had gone over the mountains, via the trail of the Dotlikakat, to Kowuk River, to guide Lieutenant Cantwell to the Koyukuk. Meeting Lieutenant Cantwell shortly afterwards on the Cor?vin. I learned that he had passed down the Kowuk before the arrival of Red Shirt. This village, numbering forty-five souls, is located on the right bank of the river, in latitude (55° 29', longitude 157° 07'. It is situated at the beginning of the Colwell Bend in the river, the dis- tance across the neck of which is 3 miles, while around by the chan- nel to same point it is 30. In the bend the river is marked by the absence of islands and high hills. On the morning of the 1 9th we , began passing West's Island, following the southern channel, and at I night camped a few miles below it at the junction of the Koteelkakat. ! We were informed that to pass by the northern channel would re- quire a very much longer time. KOTEEL Ka 1 A\ 1 T TO NUL. \ TO. At the confluence of the Koteelkakat and Kdyukuk Rivers is a small island, on which a summer camp was situated; jusl across, on the right bank of the Koyukuk Kiver, below the junction, is the site of the station established shortly after the transfer of the Territory. 106 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. It has been abandoned for a number of years. Its position is in latitude 65° 18', longitude 157° 16', and is 56 miles from junction of the Koyukuk and Yukon. This is the highest point reached on the Koyukuk by Lieutenant Zagoskin, of the Russian Navy, in the winter of 1812, though he ascended the Koteelkakat to latitude 65° 35'. Around the abandoned trading station is an assemblage of three or four winter houses and a number of caches, which resemble the villages on the Yukon near the stations. Thus far in the Koyukuk region we had been in terra incognita; but farther to its mouth white man had preceded us. The mouth of the Koteelkakat is 75 to 100 yards wide, though the river appar- ently is not very deep. The natives said it was a rather small river, a conclusion to be drawn from the topography of the country. The mouth of the Koyukuk is almost due south of that of the Koteelka- kat, though many bends must be followed to reach it. In latitude 65° the Koyukuk is but 2 miles from the Yukon, while 16 miles must be traveled by water to that river. Had we known this one of the natives could have been dispatched to Nulato to notify the captain of the steamboat of our near approach, and in consequence the party could have had transportation to Saint Michael's by steam- boat instead of by canoe and foot. Below the Koteelkakat are three small tributaries in the order named : Bitzlatoildeta, Gissassakakat, and Succosleanty, the last two on the right bank. The river along this portion varies from 500 to 1,000 yards in width, with a current of about 3 miles per hour. On the 20th we passed two camps of natives, about equal in number to those previously mentioned. The trail to the Yukon is in the vicinity of Succosleanty River at the beginning of Nulato Bend, on the most easterly part of which we halted for the night. A few miles above the Succosleanty, on the right bank, are indications of coal-beds, made manifest by pieces of slate coal found at the foot of a " land slide.'' Some large pieces of it were found that were of inferior quality, and a few small pieces that might be called a fair grade of bituminous coal. August 21 we left camp on eastern extremity of Nulato Bend, wondering whether there was an end to the Koyukuk River. The journey had become very monotonous; the high hills on the left had given away to low lands, showing that the Yukon hills had termin- ated, while to the west were hills similar to the ones we had seen so much. At noon we halted on right bank, 10 feet above the" water, for an observation. Cottonwood trees on this point were scarred to a height of 5 or 6 feet, showing that the river attains at certain seasons a rise of 15 or 16 feet. This would be sufficient to flood a large tract of land on the left bank. The place of our halt was in sight of Koyukuk Mountain, which touches both Koyukuk and Yukon water. We did not know at the time of our nearness to the latter river, which we reached at 1.30. At the junction of the rivers RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 107 is a large island called Yukon Island, between which and Mount Kdyukuk is a distance of 1,200 yards. At 3.30 we halted opposite an island of the Yukon River on which was an Indian camp. In answer to our signal a native crossed over and informed us that the steamboat had passed that point the preceding evening, which naturally made us feel comfortable. A few hours later natives at a fishing camp informed us that the steamboat had left Nulato bound for Saint Michael's, which announcement was very discomforting, in view of the fact that the C one in might already be at Saint Michael's ready for her departure to San Francisco. About 15 miles above Xulato. on the right bank, a most excellent opportunity is given to study the crust of the earth for a depth of several hundred feet. The strata has been uplifted and the stratification left nearly normal to the water. We reached Nulato at 7.30, several hours too late for the steamboat. NULATO TO SAINT MICHAEL'S. The steamboat having left Nulato with a liberal supply of wood, as we learned from the natives, there could be no chnace of over- taking her, so a start was not made until the following morning. Some flour, tea, tobacco, and ammunition were obtained from the small supply of stores left at Nulato. The latter articles were used as money to purchase fish or such other food as could be found and also to employ help. At Wulato only one man's services could be secured, notwithstanding liberal offers were made. The four natives who had accompanied us since leaving Nukliikyet could not be induced to go farther, so they were paid and discharged. A start down the Yukon with a single native was made at 8 o'clock the following morning. I had hoped by making the portage to Norton Sound to be able to reach Saint Michael's nearly as soon as the steamboat. Had I known that the revenue-cutter Corivin would not anchor off Saint Michael's before September 4, there would have been no necessity for forced marches. Her arrival was uncertain ; furthermore, the anchorage near was such as not to allow her to remain in the vicinity during the strong winds which frequently occur there. We called the native we employed "Dandy, 5 ' which name was quickly taken up by other natives and to which he readily responded. He is the native that murdered the Russian, Ivan Kogenikoff, in 1882, though a more peaceable Indian in appearance does not at present live on the Yukon. Dr. George F. Wilson, U. S. A., who accompanied Lieutenant Schwatka, relates the circumstances of the murder as follows : The Russian, whose name was Ivan Kogenikoff, was held in great fear by all the natives, not only on account of his naturally quarrelsome disposition, but on ac- count of the very summary manner in which he had avenged a murder occurring farther down the river some years ago, and many of them would have been delighted at the prospect of disposing of him had they dared. One night he was being liter- ally dragged home in a helpless state of intoxication by an Indian whose brother had been killed by a son of Kogenikoff". The Indian seeing him so utterly helpless and so completely in his power, struck him on the head with an ax, considering the deed justifiable in revenge for the death of his brother. At the time of his death Kogenikoff was living with Dandy's mother, whom he frequently beat, much to the displeasure of Dandy, 109 110 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. who also considered this in the accumulative charges against his step- father. Five miles below Nulato we stopped at a village on the left bank, where I employed the services of the half-breed Demoosky to pack over the trail to the Unalaklik. At 3 o'clock we passed Khaltat's village, on an island in the middle of the river. This is always used as a stopping place in the winter by traders going to and returning from Saint Michael's, a fact that caused our action in paddling by seem highly discourteous to Khaltat. We halted for the night at 7. 35 at a small village on the right bank, having experienced the cleansing effects of a rain the entire afternoon. This camp is 65 miles below Nulato, and is the place where a native acquainted with the trail was obtained to pilot us over the summer portage, the one we traveled, and one which is very little used. Four miles below camp we halted the following morning at an Indian vil] age for ' ' water boots " (seal-skin boots). This is a village on Raymond's chart known as Yakutska- litnik, and consists of six to eight houses. Here I met the messenger I had sent from Nulato about July 25, returning from Saint Michael's. He had made the journey as Indians usually do, satisfied that time is not an important element in any of their actions. We learned at this village that the natives around Anvik had broken into the store and carried away all the supplies and ammunition left by the trader, Mr. Fredericksen, in charge of his wife. Our hosts inquired what would be done with the transgressors, with whom they evidently sympathized. I here learned that it had been planned by the people all along the river to take possession of all the stores at the several posts. Demoosky said the natives above wanted to do the same, and that probably fear alone prevented. This man is something of a leader amongst them and probably does more than any man on the river, unless it be his ally and fellow interpreter, Antoosky, to en- courage them in their rebellion against the traders. Six miles below Yakutskalitnik we reached the mouth of a small clear stream, the Autokakat, which we ascended 3 miles to the point of departure of the summer trail to the Unalaklik. Here we made a large fire and dried our effects, preparatory to packing them, as much as the then falling rain would permit. We left the Autokakat River at noon and traveled five and half hours over the softest foot- ing until we made camp for the night. Our course for several miles was NW. i° W., then it turned more to the northward, so that our camp on high ground was NW. |° N. from the mouth of the Autokakat. The morning of August 24 was clear, and the trail, which presents no appreciable contrast to that from Nukliikyet north, lay along a high ridge convex to westward. The mosquitoes and gnats form a lively factor in the inconvenience of trail work in this part of the Territory also. At 9 o'clock we halted on summit of high ridge be- RECONNAISSANCE IX ALASKA— ALLEN. HI tween two tributaries of the Autokakat. one of which we had crossed the preceding day. From this place the trail turns the tributary by making an extended detour. The principal tributary of the Autokakat bears considerably to west of the trail we followed. The latter part of the day's march was very severe. We had passed to where the ridges have given place to very high hills which necessitated continual ascending and descending. Just b?fore halting for the night we crossed in quick succession three tributaries of a Unalaklik tributary, the cross-sec- tion of the largest of which would be represented by 10 by 3 feet. We had traveled from 7 in the morning until 8. 30 at night, includ- ing stops, yet I do not think the horizontal distance covered would exceed 14 miles. The following morning on awaking we found a heavy frost resting on all the vegetation, that presented a beautiful picture in the bright sunshine. From a high ridge about 3 miles from camp we first sighted salt water, the only time in my life when such a sight gave me a "home-like" feeling. To our right was the principal tributary of the Unalaklik. At -2.30 we had a fine view of the valley extending to the sea. At 6 p. m. we crossed the Sessekotna by wading, and at 8.30 went into camp on a high ridge, with no wood save a few scrub alders. The broken mountains, or rather hills, we had been continually ascending and descending were from 1,000 to 2.000 feet in height, and the end of a hard day's march showed but 11 miles to have been traveled. At noon, August 26, we reached the Unalaklik at the village Ulukuk. situated between two tributaries about equal in size. Efforts were at once made to secure canoes, and the natives, as usual, began the play of ' •Much Ado About Nothing. " These natives are Ingaliks, though all the other inhabitants of the river seen later are Mahle- mutes. The method of Ingalik transportation in summer is by small birch canoes, any two of which would have been insufficient to carry our party, together with the dogs ; hence resort was had to a "catamaran" constructed by fastening two canoes to each other a foot and a half apart, their axes parallel. In this craft we left the old man's village about 2 o'clock p. m. There was a current of about -t miles per hour' notwithstanding the very meandering course of the stream. A small stream was passed on each bank before halting for the night at 0.30, on the right bank, opposite a small tributary. At 7.30 the following morning we sighted a village of Mahlemutes, consisting of six men, with corresponding number of women and children, all living in tents. Here we sawbaidarras and baidarkas. the kind used on Norton Sound. The patriarch of the village joined us to share our fortunes and misfortunes, but more especially the food we had. In his language I detected a number of words used also by the natives of Nuchek. At this time I sup- posed the latter natives to be Aleuts, hence wondered much &i the 112 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. similarity. Two miles below the village is a small tributary on the right bank. Our craft required frequent repairs, all of which were made by hauling it ashore, turning it bottom upwards, and adding more pitch to the leaks, or else melting the old pitch so that it would run into the defective places. We halted at noon, where we saw a woman and child a short distance from the bank, supposing a settlement of some kind was near. Investigation showed a huge barrel and peculiar kind of tub filled with salmon berries in a state of fermenta- tion and covered with small willows. Near at hand were two young dogs tied with willow sprouts. The woman and child had disap- peared, doubtless frightened at our appearance. At 2.30 we arrived at the mouth of the Amiklona River, on the right bank near the junction of which was a Mahlemute village of eight men. On the left bank of the Unalaklik and nearly opposite is another village, about one-third as large, at the junction of another tributary. As the coast is approached the river becomes wide and the current sluggish. The mouth of it is divided into several channels, and the adjacent country for quite a distance from the coast is as flat as the prairies. The village Unalaklik, reached at 4 p. m., is situated on right bank, on the coast, and is constructed entirely of drift timber, vast piles of which cover the beach. The village is indeed a curious spectacle, about half of each house being under ground and their roofs covered with soil and rank vegetation. The smell of fish, seal oil, &c, was sufficient to cause an investiga- tion of their store rooms. Large quantities of each, also berries, were found stored away in the semi-subterranean houses. The village was capable of containing several hundred natives, and doubtless does in the winter time, when all the bands are assembled. This village offers a most interesting place for studying the ethnology of the Mahlemute. Unfortunately, we found but two men here, one of whom I sent to Saint Michael's with a note to commander of the cutter Comvin, the other up to the villages recently passed on the Unalaklik, to secure a baidarra and crew with which to travel to Saint Michael's, about 55 miles distant by the coast. We went into camp under a baidarra 40 feet long that we found on the bank of the slough be- hind the village. About 3 p. m. the following day the natives arrived from up the river with a baidarra, much in need of repairs, and a crew of but two men. A few hours later a similar kind of boat was seen in the direction of Saint Michael's. While still making our preparations the baidarra recently sighted landed, bringing us the welcome news that it was at our disposal and that the cutter had not been sighted at Saint Michael's. Mr. Lorentz, of the Alaska Commercial Company, had directed the Mahlemute in charge to put the boat at our disposal should we so desire. From Unalaklik Saint Michael's bears about WS W. After getting several natives besides the two from Nulato, we left the 29th of 29. — Eskimos ok Unalaklik River, members of our crew RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. H3 August with an unfavorable wind for us. When about a mile out the wind and heavy surf on the bar we were passing threw the natives into such a consternation that with difficulty they were prevented from returning. A few miles farther we ran to the beach at a small settlement to enable a new member of the crew to get in. We pad- dled and sailed until 5 p. in., when it was found that the excellent footing along the beach was favorable to cordelling, a faster method of traveling than paddling and sailing. Our baidarra was 36 feet long. 7 feet wide, and 2 feet 9 inches deep, rigged with a single square sail, a la Mahlemute. At 4= o'clock the following day we were at a village called Kegiktowruk, and at 8.30 at Saint Michael's, where Ave remained until September 5, when we started for San Francisco via Ounalaska. Mr. Lorentz, chief trader for the Yukon country, did all in his power to make the party com- fortable during its stay at Saint Michael's, and. furthermore, granted ns the use of his photographic instrument and plates. E. Ex. 125 8 PAET III. THE MAPS TABLES OF DISTANCE 115 THE MAPS The most valuable map extant of the interior of Alaska is that compiled by Dall in 1884 "from all accessible data," and printed by the Coast and Geodetic Survey. This includes the work in the in- terior of the Territory of a number of persons, among whom are Dall and other members of the Western Union Telegraphic Expedition, Raymond, Schwatka, Ray, the Krause brothers, Xelson, Petroff, and others. The maps forwarded with this report include one each of the Cop- per, Tanana, and Koyukuk Rivers, and one representing part of the Yukon River and the Unalaklik; also a general map. Accuracy cannot be expected of a survey executed in the hasty manner in which this was, yet I think the great care taken to secure a correct geographical description of the rivers will prove them to be of much practical value. The topography of the country away from the rivers could not be attempted, except in the most general way, yet I am sure that the delineation of the mountain system will be found more nearly correct than on any previous chart. Each of these maps is constructed on a polyconic projection from tables published by the Bureau of Navigation, and, with the excep- tion of the general map, on a scale of 1 inch to 4- miles, or ^bAto- )n the map of Copper River the one hundred and forty-fourth meridian has been used as the central one, on the Tanana the one hundred and forty-seventh, on the Koyukuk the one hundred and fifty-second, and on the Unalaklik the meridian of Nulato. I have previously spoken of inaccuracies in the determination of longitude due to the non-uniform rate of the watch. The observa- tions for it were made by Private Fickett, while I recorded them. To avoid the effects of errors as much as possible we rated the watch at Taral, Nukliikyet, and at Saint Michael's, and reduced the observa- tions taken at intermediate points by using rates determined in rear and advance. When the results differed, as they nearly always did, a longitudinal position somewhere between the two was used. lis nearness to one or the other was given in accordance with the adjudged correctness of the rates. At best the longitude is only ap- proximate, but in the determination of latitude, time being a very small function, the results are more reliable. The latitudinal obser- l IT 118 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. vations are necessarily a check on the courses determined by com- pass bearings, and the latter helped to check those for longitudes, while the reverse of the last statement should properly be the case. Throughout the entire journey the exact time consumed on each course and the direction of that course were recorded. Our rate of travel, whether by foot or by boat, was necessarily estimated. Had we simply floated down the streams the rate could have been fairly accurately obtained by measuring the swiftness of the current; but the value of our paddling, more or less spasmodic, had to be esti- mated. At all times the tendency was to overestimate, and in plot- ting some of the distances needed to be reduced one-half. Four hundred and forty-one compass bearings were used in plotting the Koyukuk River alone and proportionately nearly as many for the other rivers. The Copper River, as shown on the charts, is included between the sixty and one-half and sixty-third parallels and between the one hundred and forty-second and one hundred and forty-seventh merid- ians, and drains approximately 25,000 square miles. The Tanana, as shown, is included between the sixty-two and one-half and sixty- fifth parallels and between the one hundred and forty-two and one-half and one hundred and fifty-second meridians, and drains approximately 45,000 square miles. The Koyukuk is included be- tween the sixty-fifth and sixty-eighth parallels and between the one hundred and forty-seventh and one hundred and fifty-seven and one- half meridians, and drains approximately 55,000 square miles. The relations that these numbers bear to each other express the approxi- mate ratio of the volumes of water discharged by these rivers. Chart III, besides representing the Koyukuk River, includes the Yukon from the mouth of the Tanana to Nulato, drawn largely from field observations of the party. Chart IV contains the Yukon from Nulato to Yakutskalitnik and the Unalaklik, drawn entirely from field notes of the party. The general chart includes nearly all that portion of Alaska north of the sixtieth degree of latitude and west of the one hundred and thirty-seventh degree of longitude, and is drawn to a scale of 1 inch to 15 miles, or 950T00. The one hundred and fifty-second has been used as the central meridian, and, inasmuch as the rivers from the other charts have been reduced to conform to the proper scale, with- out any allowance for the positions of their central meridians, the relative positions of the rivers are not exactly what they should be. The chart of the Coast and Geodetic Survey has been followed for coast line and in other respects, while Raymond's and Schwatka's charts are chiefly the authorities for the Yukon. I am sorry not to be able to include in this chart the results of the work of Lieut. J. C. Cantwell and Assistant Engineer S. B. McLen- igan, of the United States revenue steamer Corwin, who explored in RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. 119 1885, respectively, the Kowuk and Nowatak Rivers. From the for- mer's report the lake source of the Kdwuk (67° 1' latitude, 153° 30' longitude) is taken. An outline map of the entire Territory has been constructed on a convenient place on the general chart on a scale of 50 miles to the inch. TABLES OF DISTANCES- DISTANCES ON THE COPPER AND CHITTYNA RIVERS. Description and position. Distances fron- i— Locality. ts . B>> P-i 4 1 * 53 i On Hinchinbrook Island, 432 miles west of Sitka . Summer village of two houses near the western mouth of Copper River. Village of five houses near the western mouth of Copper River. Largest glacier, right bank, beginning of Aber- crombie Canon. Largest glacier of Copper River, left bank, lat. 60° 44', long. 145° 33'. Northern end of Abercrombie Canon, on rocks in the middle of the channel. High bluff on left bank, vegetation-covered gla- cier on right. Mouth on left bank, lat. 61° 2', long. 145° 30' .... Mouth on right, lat. 61° 5', long. 145° 2?', oppo- site Cottonwood Island. 46 4 28 2 6 8 14 5 10 11 10 13 5 2 ,8 22 6 18 18 13 46 50 78 80 86 94 108 113 123 134 144 157 162 164 175 193 215 221 239 239 252 178 202 233 Alaganik (Anahanuk) Child's Glacier 28 30 36 44 58 63 73 84 94 107 112 114 125 143 165 171 189 189 202 128 152 183 Camp April 2 Baird's Canon Bremner River Small stream on right bank, lat. Cl° 19', long. 145° 46'. * Taral Midn6osky village of two houses, site of an old Russian trading-post, lat. 61° 38', long. 145° 6'. Midn6osky Creek Mouth on right bank Chittyna 13 Mouth on right bank Chittyna, lat. 61° 24', long. 144° 17', Camp April 14. Mouth on right bank Chittyna, lat. 61° 22', long. 143° 51', Camp April 16. Beginning of trail to Nicolai's SI 53 53 Junction of central and southern branches. Camp April 18 Visible from high point of trail, about 18 miles . . On trail to Nicolars, midway between Chittyna and Chittystone Rivers. Left bank Chittystone River, lat. 61° 26', long. 143° 17'. From Nicolai's house to mouth of Chittystone via the river is 58 miles. Messala River, left bank of Copper 77 77 Nicolai's house 90 16 JLiebigstag's village Coneguanta"s village Liebigstag's River, opposite on left bank, lat. 61° 57', long. 145° 45'. Summer houses on left bank, winter houses on right, lat. 02° 10', long. 146° 30'. 24 31 40 71 120 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. Table of distances — Continued. DISTANCES ON THE COPPER AND CHITTYNA RIVERS— Continued. 121 Description and position. Distance 3 from - Locality. "5 "^ X '2 tD S 1 10 243 193 81 Tezlina River On right bank, heads in Lake Plaveznie of the Russians. 12 255 205 93 On right bank, lat. C2° 32', long. 140° 40' 25 9 280 289 230 239 118 127 Sanf ord River On left bank Torrent, lat. 62° 44', long. 140° 22' . 32 321 271 159 On right bank 16 337 287 175 Camp May 30 On left bank, beginning of trail to Batzulneta's. Near left bank of Copper River, on the trail .... 17 304 304 192 Camp June 1 29 382 383 221 Batzulneta's village On Batzulneta's Creek, 4 miles from its mouth, lat. 62° 58', long. 145° 22'. 10 393 343 £31 A reservoir of Slana River, a tributary of Copper. 10 403 353 241 DISTANCES ON TANANA RIVER. Locality. Description and position. Distances from- 0) o Tanana River Harper's Bend Old Station (Harper's) Summer village Lorentz River Dugan River Camp June 22 Cantwell River Camp June 21 Summer village Camp June 20 Delta Creek Delta River Volkmar River Mason's Narrows Camp June IK Good paster's River. . . Gerstle River Camp June 17 Johnson River Tower Bluff Rapids .. Mouth, left bank of Yukon River Southern part Abandoned on right bank, lat. 64° 47', long. 151° 14'. Mouth of Toclat River, left bank Mouth, left bank, 2 miles below Baker Creek, on right bank. Mouth, left bank Right bank, lat. 04° 44', long. 149° 37' Left bank, fishing station, 4 miles above small stream on left. Right bank, 2 miles above small stream on left . Right bank, 3 miles below small stream on left . Right bank, river very wide. Probable head of navigation. Two miles below camp. Head of navigation, lat. 04° 18', long. 1 17° 51'. Lilt hank Largest tributary, right bank Small streams above and below on opposite sides Right bank, lat. 04° 18', long. 140° 39' Right bank, second tributary in size Left bank Lat. ()4° 8', long. 1 15° 54', in Johnson Rapids . . . Left bank, head of Carlisle Rapids Lower part, Camp June 10 18 44 66 85 97 123 137 172 180 205 227 265 290 800 805 810 838 832 850 882 408 160 548 522 500 481 469 443 429 394 386 361 301 276 266 261 251 1 288 28 I 210 184 684 710 732 751 763 603 846 671 £98 [31 CC6 966 971 982 '.".il 998 1.022 1.048 1.073 122 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN, .Locality. Table of distances — Continued. DISTANCES ON TAN AN A" RIVER— Continued. Robertson River Cathedral Bluffs Kheeltat River. . Mentasta Trail . Tokai River Camp June 14 . . Tetling River . . . Tetling's house NandelTs house Distances from- Deseription and position. 6C . an 73 c3 2 o 3 ? t 2 3 S3 03 P4 & fc i-t 116 ! 1,116 Left bank, opposite Tower Bluffs and head of j 29 435 131 1,101 rapids. Right bank 15 450 Right bank, trail to Fetuliin 10 j 460 Left bank, also beginning of trail to Nandell's . . 6 466 Left bank 40 506 Left bank, lat. 63° 32', long. 143° 58' j 8 514 Left bank 32 546 On Tetling River 9 556 Nearly south of Tetling's 11 566 106 100 1,126 1,132 1,172 1,180 1,212 1,221 1,232* Nandell's to Wolverine Gorge (north side Alaskan Mountains), 9 miles. Wolverine Gorge to Lake Suslota= distance across Miles Pass, 49 miles. Middle point of Miles Pass= 1,265 miles from the sea via the Tanana and Yukon Rivers. Middle point of Miles Pass =384 miles from the sea via the Copper .River. DISTANCES ON THE KOYUKUK RIVER. Locality Nulato Koyukuk River NulatoBend Indian Village Koteelkakat River "West's Island Do Camp August 18 Colwell Bend Red-Shirt's village . . . Cawtaskakat River . . Doggetlooskat River Hussleakatna Distances from- Description and position. Pall's Island . Right bank of Yukon Mouth on right bank of Yukon, lat. 64° 44', long. 158° 10'. Most eastern part, Camp August 20 Left bank, 4 miles below Bitzloit ocla River Mouth right bank, abandoned station. Indian village, lat. 65° 18', long. 157° 46'. Most southerly point Most northerly point Right bank Most northerly part Right bank, lat. 65° 29', long. 157° 15' Left bank. Camp August 17 Right bank Right bank, 2 miles above southern end of Dall's Island. Upper end , £8 24 24 40 60 80 84 112 120 134 156 160 171 -* > fa 556 532 516 496 476 472 444 436 422 406 396 385 354 2U 345 467 491 507 527 547 551 579 587 601 617 627 638 678 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. Table of distances — Continued. DISTANCES ON THE KOYUKUK RIYER-Continued. 123 Treat's Island Daklikakat River. Camp August 15. . . Treat's Island Hogatzakakat River Camp August 14 Ice-banks Barnard Island Batzakakat Camp August 13 — Twin Islands Camp August 12 — Waite's Island Red Mountain Camp August 11 — Konootena River . . . Mayo Island Allenkakat River. . . Sojeklakakat River. Fish Island Camp August 7 Moore*s Island Mount Lookout Fickett River Description and position. Western extremity Right bank, north of Treat's Island, near trail leading to Kowuk River. On Treat's Island, lat. 60° 3', long. 156° 40' Eastern extremity Right bank Left bank, lat. 65° 53', long. 156° 3' Right bank Two miles long Indian village, right bank, western extremity McQuisten's Island. Left bank, opposite McQuisten's Island Each about 3i miles long Left bank, lat. 66° 3', long. 153° 57' Northern extremity Right bank On left bank just above Eight-mile Bend Left bank Mayo Bend Right bank, lat. 66° 39', long. 151° 35' Right bank Mouth Nohoolchintna River, on left bank On right bank (ascending the river) North end Near right bank, Camp August 8 Right bank, lat. G7° 10', long. 150° 30 The mouth of the Konooten 4=125 miles by trail from Nuklukyet. The highest point reached on Fickett River =99 miles from month of Konootena, Distances from- ^ _ - V33 - '> 3 ~£ X fc 219 337 231 325 28; 17 ! 29!) 323 | 347' ' ooo 3(39 400 410 446 463 471 484 507 516 531 539 554 556 319 309 288 274 257 233 201 187 173 156 146 110 93 85 72 49 40 25 17 2 786 798 804 814 835 849 866 890 914 922 £30 C50 967 S77 1.013 1,030 1,038 1.051 1,074 1,083 1,098 1,100 1.121 1,123 DISTANCES ALONG THE YUKON AND SUMMER ROUTE TO SAINT MICHAEL'S. Locality. Nuklukyet Dep. of trail to Kovukuk Gold Mountain Nowikakat River Melozikakat River.' Little Mountain K6yukuk River Description and locality. (Distances above mouth of the Tanana are taken from reports of Raymond and Schwa! ka. I Seventeen miles below mouth of Tanana . Right bank Right bank. lat. 05° 5'. long. 158° 43' Left bank, 2 miles below trading post Right bank Left bank, near Lit tie Mountain Island... Right oank Distances from- ,_ 419 413 378 85 1 312 2-).". SI 1,28 1,293 1,829 1,852 1,894 1,451 1,464 124 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. Table of distances — Continued. DISTANCES ALONG THE YUKON AND SUMMER ROUTE TO SAINT MICHAEL'S- Continued Description and locality. Distances from— o Is ?4 Locality. (Distances above mouth of the Tanana are taken from reports of Raymond and Schwatka.) ^"3 3 °5 ed 3 3 3 Right bank 24 201 218 1,488 1,520 Khaltag's house do 32 233 186 Right bank. lat. 63° 45', long. 159° 10'. PI. dep. for TJnalaklik River. 43 276 143 1,563 Left bank of Autokakat 3 279 140 1,566 Camp August 24 TJlukuk On the trail, lat. 63° 56', long. 159° 57' 29 302 111 1,595 1,619 Ingalik village, between branches of TJnalaklik 14 322 97 River. TJnalaklik Innuit village, mouth of TJnalaklik River Ou Island of Saint Michael's 42 55 364 419 55 1,661 Fort Saint Michael's . . 1,716 The Yukon River is navigable as far as Miles Canon, which is 1,784 miles from its mouth (Aphoon Outlet), 818 miles above Foi^t Yukon, and 327 miles above Fort Selkirk. The length of the river above Fort Yukon is 989 miles; be- low Fort Yukon to mouth (Aphoou Outlet) is 965. PAET IV. NATIVES 125 THE NATIVES. NATIVES OF COPPER RrCER. Upon examination of the natives of Copper River it is found that they are as a rule between 5 feet 6 and 5 feet S inches in height, though occasionally a man fully 6 feet is seen, and weigh about 140 pounds; that the color of their skin is a brown, tinged with copper, and much darker than that of their nearest coast neighbors: that their hair is generally straight, exceptionally wavy: and that their eyes are inva- riably black or nearly so. A great difference in mobility of counte- nance was noticed, the faces of some being nearly as capable of indi- cating emotions as those of a civilized people, whilst those of others are almost entirely devoid of expression under any circumstance. Their muscular strength is not so remarkable as their ability to travel great distances in a short time on scanty rations. Ample opportunity was given for measuring their strength and endurance with those of our party. The result of the first few days" work was favorable to them, but ever afterwards to us. It is true, however, that our party was selected with special view to physical strength. It is an unusual occurrence to see a father and mother with more than three children. Whether this smallness of family be due to the hardships incident to the gaining of a livelihood or to malpractice in some of its forms, I am unable to say. As a fact that with them, too. poverty may be blessed with children. I will instance that one of the most destitute families met consisted of father, mother, and four children, some of whom were sadly emaciated by hunger. The nature of their food causes so much wearing of the teeth that children are found with the first set worn almost to the gums; with adults the teeth are worn down to the gums while the body is yet in its prime. The faces show the result of subjection to hardships long before the hair begins to turn gray. Owing to their ignorance of methods of computing time, I was unable to ascertain anything definite relative to their ages. Messala. however, who lives on left bank of Copper, one day's march from Taral. and presumably led the party of massacre against the Russians in L848, was then a man of years and influence. The only sickness noticed among them was due to costiveness, which doubtless disappears as soon as the run of salmon arrives. But one natural deformity was observed- a shriveled lei;-— yet the toes of nearly all are abnormally crooked from snow-shoe travel. 127 128 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. Their sagacity in following trails and limiting game is probably not greater than that of others of the Tiniieh family, but would astonish one not accustomed to the skill of natives in this respect. All the people of the Copper River region were called by the Russians Midnooskies (more properly Midnovtsi), and all belong to the great Tiniieh family, which ^peoples the interior of Alaska. Those below the Tezlina River, from their association with Russians, have adopted some abbreviated form of the same, such as Minusky, Minoosky, &c, while those above it style themselves Tatlatans. I think the name Atnatana, the Indian name for an inhabitant of Atna (Copper) River region, would be a fitting term for the people of both tribes, who differ very little from each other. To particularize, I have used the term Midnoosky for the people south of the Tezlina, includ- ing those living on the Chittyna, and Tatlatan for those living north of the Tezlina. The entire number of natives on the river and its tributaries is about 366, divided as follows: Men, 128; women, 98; children 140. Be- tween Alaganik and Wood's Canon, a distance of 110 miles, there are no settlements, yet an occasional party goes down to Bremner River to hunt moose. On the Chittyna and its tributaries are about 30 souls; on the headwaters of Tezlina and Lake Plaveznie, prob- ably 20. The Tatlatans, including the settlement at Lake Susldta, number 117. On the Copper, including tributaries between Taral and the Tezlina, are 209, the total number of Midnodskes. Mco- lai is autocrat of the Chittyna River and the fishing rendezvous. Taral, whilst between the latter place and the Tezlina this privi- 1s exercised by Liebigstag and Conequanta, the former controlling the lower part; the latter, with the largest following of any Atna- tana, the upper. The chief native among the Tatlatans is Batzulne'ta, who is a shaman. As far as I am able to judge from the scanty records of the Rus- sians and my own observations, I should say that the change in number of these people has been very slight for many years. Their history, so far as their records are concerned, will always be a sealed book. On both bajfrks of the river between Chittyna and the Klawah- sina River, more/especially on the left bank, are frequent excava- tions 2 to 4 feet', indicating the sites of houses. The more recent of these show signs of the attached bath-house. In some older ex- cavations spruces of the largest size are growing. The territory of the Atnatanas is included between the one hun- dred and forty-second and one hundred and forty-seventh meridians and between the sixty and half and sixty-third parallels, represent- ing an approximate area of 25,000 square miles, all of which is drained by the Copper and its tributaries. Practically excluded from the rest of the world, it is but natural that they should be a conservative people. With mountains on all sides, their routes RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 129 of travel are chiefly confined to the water-courses winter and sum- mer. Were it practicable to pass from Taral to the upper waters of the Copper by going nearly due north, one-half the distance over the river route which is and must be followed would be avoided. Between these localities are some of the highest mountains of the northern continent, and certainly the highest volcano ( Wrangell) ; below Taral are huge glaciers. Miles' and Child's, which hem in the river, rendering navigation extremely dangerous. Besides these geographical considerations, the climate, which is practically seven months severe winter, affects in a large measure the customs of the people. Their vegetable products are limited, scanty in variety and in quantity. Besides the berries, including cranberries, blueberries, a small red berry (called by them giniss), a small black berry (called by them gizneh), quite similar to the red one, is a fruit called tombd, that grows on a bush several feet high. It hangs on the bushes all winter, and may be eaten in the spring, even to summer, when it is very dry and nearly tasteless. The shape and nature of the fruit is very similar to the black haw, though it is of a yellowish- white color. The natives fry it in moose or other fat, at the same time mashing it well with a stick or spoon, thus making of it a palatable dish. Their chief vegetable food, however, is a peculiar parsnip- shaped root, but longer than that vegetable, which they call chass. The portion of it above ground is not more than 6 to 12 inches and not unlike a bunch of small willows, while the root is frequently several feet long. It is never cured, but is eaten raw, boiled, or roasted, Fish, rabbit, moose, sheep, caribou, bear, goat, porcupine, beaver, lynx, muskrat, goose, duck, and grouse constitute the mass of their food. Of these fish is decidedly the most important, with rabbits next in order. They have no process of curing save that by drying in the sun. The fat of the moose is melted and run into the smaller intestines, while the blood is saved in the paunch. It is of little im- portance to them whether or not their meat be cooked, and in boiling it is seldom allowed to become done through. The entire entrails of rabbits are boiled, sometimes with the bodies from which they were taken, again with other meat, and form one of the most potent anti- scorbutics used by them. Good or special food is always cooked by the men, and the refuse of all is given to the women. A boy five or six years old has precedence at meals over his mother. There seems to be almost no limit to the amount of food a hungry native can consume (and our experience when compelled to live as they do was in no respect different). A single kind of food must be abundant to furnish in sufficient quantities the necessary elements required by the system. A much less quantity <>l* mixed food satisfies. Like most other Indians, they seem to eat whenhungry, without regard to fixed intervals. S. Ex. 125 9 130 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. The only drink that I saw used by them, excepting tea, of which they are passionately fond, and the liquors in which the food is boiled, was made from the plant (lamb kill?) used by nearly all the Tinneh of Alaska and by the inhabitants of the Hudson Bay country and Labrador. No special preparation of this is required, not even dry- ing being necessary before using. If they possess any medicinal preparations or medicines of any description they are in the hands of the shamans, who keep them carefully concealed. Their limited contact with the Eussians and Americans, though very slight, has taught them the benefits of more civilized remedies, and they will take any dose given them by a white man. The houses of the Atnatanas are of two kinds, viz, permanent and temporary. The former are intended for winter use and are annu- ally occupied during that season, while the latter are extemporized at any place where game may be found. The photograph of the house at Taral fairly represents the winter house of an Atnatana. In plan it is about 18 feet square, is built of spruce poles and slabs in a loose style, and is covered in with spruce bark. In some places moss is used to help to make it close. The walls under the eaves are nearly 4 feet high; about 3 feet from the ground around the inside is built a shelf 4 or 5 feet wide, which serves the double purpose of a seat during the day and bed at night, the space under this being boxed in with vertical slabs and used as a store-room and sleeping apart- ments for women, children, and pups. The roof is provided with a large hole in the middle, to permit the escape of smoke from the open lire on the floor. The entrance to the house is through a small " storm shed" about 2 by 3 feet, protected at the outer end by an undressed sheep or goat skin. Opposite this at the other end, near the floor, is a round hole about 15 inches in diameter, which is the entrance to the sleeping-room and bath-house. This is about 10 feet square and 4 or 5 feet in height, nearly all of which is under ground, and is lighted by a small aperture over which the intestines of the bear are stretched. The sweat bath is so highly prized that every permanent house of the Midnooskies and most of those of the Tatlatans are supplied with the necessary room, the heating of which is quite simple. A large pile of stones placed on a close frame of logs in the main room, after the manner of an old-fashioned lime-kiln, are heated, then transferred to the sweat room by means of two sticks used as tongs. The circular aperture is closed with a kind of tompion and water is then poured on until the necessary amount of heated vapor is obtained. The idea of building this adjunct to the houses came through contact with the Eussians, with whom it is a religious as well as a hygienic measure, and is practiced as far north as the Alaskan Eange. Beyond this it is not seen until the Lower Yukon is reached. The temporary or hunting house, always built of poles and boughs of spruce, cotton- RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. 131 wood, &c, is rectangular in plan, with a passage-way through the center. Two sides only are used, and in consequence the ends and upper part are scantily covered. A log placed on the fire extends sometimes several feet beyond each end. A moose or caribou skin, in lieu of cotton cloth used by their more civilized brethren, is occa- sionally used to help make it water-proof directly over the sleeping places. Tents are not as yet part of their possessions, nor is metal of any kind employed in assembling the different parts of the houses, willow withes and rawhide thongs answering their present require- ments for this purpose. In general, the winter house, being on the river, may be said to be occupied during the salmon season, and until February, when the occupants depart for the headwaters of streams, where they hunt and trap and improvise summer houses. Never have I seen Indians more devoid of luxuries than are the Atna- tanas. The wealthiest count only the following vessels and utensils in their subsistence departments : One to three large kettles, one tea- kettle, one frying-pan, several wooden trays (native), several knives, generally home manufactured, horn Spoons, and two or three cups. In but one place did I see any pretense of furniture, and that was a peculiarly made box to put the tea-cups on. The average head of family dispenses with all the above save one kettle, one or two wooden trays, a knife or two, and possibly a small cup, which he invariably carries whilst traveling. I found no vessels for boiling or holding water that had been used prior to the introduction of modern ones. Their clothing consists ordinarily of two garments, trousers and boots forming one, coat or parkie the other. In the winter this is sometimes supplemented by a shirt made of rabbit skin. The coat is usually without a hood attachment, differing in this respect from that of the Eskimos, the head-dress being made from marmot or squirrel skins. The principal decorations of the wearing apparel is of beads, of which those one-eighth to one-quarter of an inch in diameter are especially prized. Very seldom are porcupine quills utilized for ornamentation. The men have both ears and nose pierced, the women the former only. In the nose rings made of shell or metal are worn, some of which are 1 \ inches in diameter. Sinew suspends the ear ornaments, wliieh are made of elongated beads. To be thoroughly en rdgle, a little red paint must be applied to the face. This applies more particularly to the women and children than to the men. Nicolai alone was never seen to use paint or ornaments of any description; lie preferred to adopt the style of the white men. The beaded knife scabbard attached to the neck is considered indispensable to the well-equipped Atiiataiia. Avhodoesnoi lake ii off day or night. In ad- dition to this, the tyones and wealthymen weara beaded ammunition pouch. Bracelets and finger-rings, likewise tattooing, are almost unknown to them. Coml >s made of the hoofs of the moose are ow r ned 132 KECONNAXSSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. by some, while many keep the hair in condition by dexterous use of the hands. They are very fastidious with respect to the hair, which, be it said to their credit, nearly always appears neat, a shaman's excepted. That of the women and shamans is worn long, while many of the men in early summer cut it straight around at the height of "the middle of the neck. The unit of measurement with them is the distance between the tips of the fingers, the arms horizontally outstretched. I have fre- quently seen them measuring timber for a baidarra or the length of rope or thongs with this unit. Beads and ammunition are the mediums of exchange used by the intermediate men in obtaining the furs that are carried to the trad- ing stations. Mcolai leaves at his house on the Chittystone River during his absence at Taral beads, caps, and powder for the " Cal- eb amies,"* who arrive and deposit an equivalent in furs, tending to show how definite is the relation between articles of commodity and prices paid for them, and also the mutual confidence amongst themselves. • Their bows and arrows are quite similar to those formerly much used by the Yukon natives, though they are perhaps a little better finished. The material for both is birch, which is subjected to a peculiar process of seasoning, which might be called tempering. A rough slab about 5 feet long is blocked out of green birch with the small ax in possession of nearly all; then the knife is used to bring it down to dimensions not exceeding an inch or inch and a half in ^cross-section. This rod is alternately put in the fire for a few seconds and then worked awhile with the knife until it has nearly attained its final dimensions, when it is placed where the smoke can envelop it. It may remain at this stage of the process several weeks before being again subjected to the fire and the knife. When finally tempered a bow 1 inch by J inch in cross-section requires a strong arm to spring it. I have seen splendid ram-rods made of very- crooked timber in the same manner. Bows and arrows are yet largely used by them, though they are being rapidly superseded by the small-bore, double-barrel, muzzle- loading shotguns, of which there are two grades, one very inferior, the other good, with laminated steel barrels. Neither of them ex- ceeds 5 or 6 pounds in weight. They fire out of these guns pebbles and bullets of lead or copper. The copper bullets are claimed by them to be superior to the lead ones for large game, such as moose and bear, for the reason, they say, that the copper ones will always break the bones, while the lead ones will not. The copper bullets in use on the Chittyna River are formed by hammering. Judging from the weapons owned by these natives and from their '-The term "Colcharney" or "Kolsaina" is of Russian origin, and is applied by the Midnooskies to all people not belonging to their tribe. ^ =mz=$asx> • s^as^- ' ^A J <^tV^ £0B28p^^» 3gmflE 17. — BOW AND ARROWS AND MlDNOOSKY BAIDARRA FRAMES. RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEX. 133 docile and mirthful characteristics, I should not consider them a warlike people. In building their houses the only implements used, besides the ax and knife, is an adz made by securing to an elbowed stick with rawhide strings a flat piece of iron tempered by themselves. They are by no means of an inventive turn, many of them obtain- ing their snow-shoes from the Colcharnies; nevertheless they make their toboggans and sleds, which possess the valuable qualities of lightness and durability. As before stated, their routes of travel are chiefly on or near water- courses. When a long journey down the river is contemplated or a trip to Nuchek is decided upon, a skin boat is built; but if the distance be short, a raft made of four logs fastened with Avillow withes is constructed. In ascending the river with a boat only one method can be used, that of " cordeliing. " A party of Tatlatans were passed above the Chitsletchina en route to Taral in a baidarra for the fishing season. The skins of their boat were to be dressed at the destination and made into clothing, and the return trip was not con- templated until the ice had formed on the river, thus enabling them to sledge back. There is a trail along the river from Taral to the mouth of Slana River, though not always on the same bank of it; in some cases it is 2 or 3 miles from the river. To every member of a family belongs on an average three dogs, which are used for hunting moose and bear and other game, and for carrying packs. They are a source of great annoyance in the vicinity of rabbit snares unless kept at the house, usually by shoving one or both front feet through a string tied around the neck. As pack animals they are exceedingly valuable to people situated as their masters are. They do not average more than 18 to 20 inches in height, yet they can carry for short distances 30 to 33 pounds, and day after day 25 pounds. I can heartily recommend a pack train of these animals for journeys where the greatest transporting power consuming the least quantity of food is desirable. These dogs are never harnessed to the sleds, which the natives haul and push, but transport their burdens directly on the back. The men very seldom carry packs other than their arms and bedding, the work of trans- portation being assigned to the women, who pack themselves and manage-the train of dogs. Canoe transportation in none of its tonus is attempted on the Copper or any of its tributaries, nor is it proba- ble that it ever will be. owing to the remarkably rapid currenl pro- duced by the unusual fall in the river of 3. 160 feet in 33<) miles. The chief amusement of these people other than eating, and the one they always resort to when hunger is satisfied, Ls singing. Un- assisted by any musical instrument, not even any form of the huu- tiim, nearly all join in the songs, usually Led by the young i and boys. These are numerous and varied in c 134 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. intended -for courtship being much less exciting than the more epic ones. Singing is frequently indulged in while enjoying a meal, and all the bodies may be seen keeping perfect time to it. The children are taught to sing almost as soon as to talk. When dancing accom- panies, its violence is in direct proportion to the stress of voice. The spoken language is markedly accented, and seldom are more than three consecutive words uttered with the same intonation. Most dissyllabic nouns and many adjectives are accented on the last syllable. The practice of delivering orations is as frequent amongst them as among the Sioux or Cheyennes. The following limited vocabulary may serve to give a faint idea of the nature of the lan- guage. The annexed numerals of the White Mountain Apaches, as obtained from Lieut. T. B. Dugan, U. S. A.,* who was ten months on the San Carlos Reservation, shows an astonishing similarity to the same of the Atnatanas, which I trust may lead to a more thorough investigation of the matter, f On further comparison of our respec- tive limited vocabularies a few nouns almost identical in sound and meaning were found to exist. English. Midnoosky. English. Midnoosky. Keek. Sekai. Skunk ai. Sklekay. Slukkay. Sukachay. Tenayga. Konnai. Tebay. S'bai.. Tekant. Nukleksy. Nooteay. Chooga. Nellay. Chahny. Gak. Chiless. Nent. Trollai. Clritz. Tin. Bin. To. Na. Niai. Teechin. Hoonak. Sayzell. Dalkak. Tetagin. Minta. Se. Nin. T'kwully. Kooteshit. Siyo6, Cuttlestee. Wallay. Katahwot. Traykcha. Tulchone. Keelan. Tebay. Tazee. Deschane. Ho6na. Ah'ny. Nastala. Dona keelan? To unto. Keunchilly. Woman Child Sweat-house Grease To-day Dog Salmon (small) I Caribou None, nothing, few Far, a long distance Wolf Fox A short distance Good Bad Small Plenty Hot Marmot Smooth ground Cold Tired Wood To go To sleep River Sun • Give me some water Mount Wrangell Food * I am under obligations to Lieutenant Dugan for much valuable assistance in making the report. f Since writing this I have learned from Mr. O. T. Mason, Director of the Ethno- logical Department of the Smithsonian, that the relationship of the Tiimeh family with the Southern Indians was discovered by Mr. Turner many years since. RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 135 English. Midnoosky. Apache. One Suskai Daschlai. Nakee. Tagy. Dingy. Schlai. Goostan. Goosetty. Saybee. Goostai. Gooneznun. Two Natayky Tagy Dinky Five Six . . Eight Klahinky Zutlakwalo Ten Notwithstanding the fact that women are decidedly in the minority among the Atnatanas, polygamy is practiced to a limited extent. How far they observed the laws of consanguinity in their marriages I do not know, but that an occasional Midnoosky marries a Tatlatan is a fact, brought about possibly by that desire to avoid marriages of relations. The wives are treated with very little consideration, and are valued in proportion to their ability to pack and do general work. They and their children are always left in destitute circum- stances at the death of their husband, however wealthy he may have been. This arises from the custom of distributing among the tribe at his death the property, the accumulation of which seems to be a great pride because the demonstration at the obsequies will be in proportion to the wealth of the deceased. The oldest son, however young, becomes the head of the family at the death of the father. The treatment of adopted children is not different from that of the natural heirs. Very small children are carried in a kind of birch chair or cradle, the legs hanging over, while older ones sit on the pack, with a leg passing on each side of the mother. The social organization seems to be divided into the following classes: tyones, skillies (near relatives of a tyone), shamans or medicine-men, and vassals of varying degrees of servitude. In all assemblies seats are rigidly assigned according to rank, which is well established among them. The tyones would barely condescend to consider any of us their equals, nor did they fail to express disgust at seeing the head of our party carrying a pack or pulling on a rope. Among the Midnooskies the influence of the shamans is much less thai] with the Tatlatans, a fact due, I suppose, to contact with the Russians. Nicolai, an influential chief, would not tolerate them, though he himself claimed to be able to perform wonderful cure* ; certainly many natives, far and near, believed him. His power i; supposed to come from the church (Greek), of which he is an apostle. He wears on his hat a Greek cross as talisman, and has a small quan- tity of paper and a pencil, with which he pretends to keep a record ol all matters of importance to his people. It is not strange that 136 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. with his unusually keen perceptive faculties he deceives his neigh bors, as shown by the following: At Kheeltat's, about 350 miles from Taral as we traveled, was seen a native carrying a highly valued brass cross and some hieroglyphics, both made by Nicolai, who had doubt- less received a liberal allowance in furs for them. Some have such confidence in his healing power as to send the garment of a sick child many miles to him in order that he may sleep on it. Liebigs- tag, a tyone who has several shamans in his following, caused all to absent themselves from his camp on hearing of our near approach. Farther up the river, however, they are comparatively numerous, and are detected by the uncombed, uncut condition of their hair. They are non-producers, whose missions are those of priest and prophet of the most primitive style. The skillies are necessarily many, and not a few of them have vassals at their beck and call. I have seen one fourteen or fifteen years of age, sitting within a few feet of the river, order a man 6 feet high, a vassal, to bring him water. These menials are used for all kinds of work, and are as completely under the control of their masters as they possibly could be, yet I never heard of corporal punishment being administered to them. It is but natural to suppose that a threat of depriving them of food or shelter in their poverty- stricken condition would be sufficient incentive to urge them to any length of obedience. A family is driven to a state of dependency at the death of its head 3 not only on account of all property being distributed, but also from the fact of the house being burned. The dead are put under the ground and the site marked by a square frame, about 3 by 5 in plan, placed above. There seems to be no special ceremony attend- ing marriage ; a man possessing a few kettles, &c. , is always eligi- ble, and when he meets his fate takes her. TAN AN A RIVER NATIVES. What has been said of the Atnatanas will, in a large measure, apply to the natives of the Upper Tanana, though the frequency of the visits of these latter to the Yukon River has had considerable influence in modifying their customs and dress. They have almost entirely ceased to wear nose-rings, and but few wear ornaments in the ears. Opportunities for observing the customs of these people were not as favorable as were those for studying the Atnatanas, on account of the hurried manner in which we passed through the Territory. The natives of the Upper Tanana call that river Nabesna. For uni- formity and by analogy to the term applied by Copper River natives to themselves, I have called them Nabesnataiias. For the same reason I have applied the term Tananataiias to all the natives of the river. The natives of the lower part, embracing two or three small RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 137 tribes, each with a name, have for convenience been called Nukluk- tanas. The name suggests its applicability. These natives are not unlike those around ISTukhikyet. Minook, the interpreter at Fort Reliance, gave me the following names for the tribes along the Ta- nana. I record them for what they are worth. This man was never on the Tanana River, though he is considered one of the best inter- preters of the many dialects of the Tinneh language. These names are supposed to be the ones applied by the tribes to themselves. Beginning near the upper waters he says are the Nutzotin, includ- ing Nandell's and Tetling's following ; after them, in order, are the Mantotin, Tolwatin, Clatchotin, and Huntlatin. The termination tin is but another form of the word representing "people." The words tena, tenna, tana, tinneh, tinehh&Ye all been used to mean the same, and the word Dene, as applied to some of the people of the Hudson Bay country, is intended to represent the French phonetics for a native word meaning ' 'people. " The Tatlatans are not only in habitation an intermediate people between the Midnodskies and Nabesnatanas, but also in custom and language. There are some words common to all of them, though a marked difference in the accentuation is observed between that of those north of the range and that of those south of it. A peculiar drawling tone characterizes, in a marked degree, the Nabesnatanas, in a slight degree the Tatlatans, whilst the Midnodskies are distin- guished by a most energetically accentuated language. These last converse with the Tatlatans with less ease than do the latter with the Nabesnatanas, who readily communicate with the natives around Fort Reliance and Fetutlin, on the Yukon. I estimate the entire population of the Tanana River and its tribu- taries to be between 550 and GOO, though no very accurate idea can be formed of the number of a people living as they do, without visiting their settlements, very few of which are on the main river. Around Nandell's and Tetling's we counted 40 men, 32 women, and 25 chil- dren; around Kheeltat's, 28 men, 18 women, and 6 children; a total of 149. Between Kheeltat's and Toclat River there were but two camps, each containing about eight souls. Below Toclat we passed but one camp, that of Ivan, consisting of 31 men, 18 women, and 20 children. The entire number of natives seen on or near the Tanana was 232. Between Kheeltat's and Delta River, marked on the map as "head of navigation," the only indication of natives, save an occasional blazed tree, is the camping ground at the mouth of Volkmar River. Below Delta River are frequent camps, many of which are doubtless used by natives during the salmon season. Should the Nabesnatanas descend the Tanana to its mouth for trad- ing purposes, a return could not be made until the winter time; this journey, however, is not a necessity with them, on account of their ability to obtain ammunition from Fort Reliance or Fetutlin by a 138 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. portage of six days. It is not more probable that the Nukluktanas would permit them to pass through their territory than that they wonld those natives living between the Tanana and Knskokwim Rivers, who mnst always trade through intermediate men. That salmon do not reach the upper waters of the Tanana is rather singular, and cannot, I think, be alone attributable to the rapids along its course. The absence of salmon causes the natives to depend for sustenance on the smaller fishes previously enumerated, and large game, much of which is caught in snares. It is a custom of theirs to have long lines of fencing, so built of brush and poles that caribou or moose cannot get through it. At intervals a gap is left, in which a rope snare is placed. By this means a large part of their subsistence stores is obtained. A miner informed me that while prospecting be- tween the Yukon and Tanana Rivers he found a "game fence" 30 miles long. The Tanana natives have more bead work and are perhaps more skilled in its manufacture than any people seen by us in the Terri- tory. In general appearance and manner the natives of the Lower Tanana strongly resemble the Unakhotanas of the Yukon, especially those near Nuklukyet. It is said by the traders of the Yukon that the natives at Fort Reliance and of NukMkyet understand each other, and also the Nukluktanas and Nabesnatanas, but none can understand the natives living in the vicinity of old Fort Yukon. This would seem to indicate that the Tanana River and the Yukon below the mouth of same were peopled from the upper waters of the Yukon, or else the migration was up the Tanana, thence across to Fort Reliance, leaving the most northerly part of the Yukon River to be peopled by natives from the direction of the Hudson Bay Territory. The Na- besnatanas both pack their dogs and use them in sleds, whilst the Nukluktanas, like the Yukon River natives, seldom use them other- wise than in sleds. These sleds are similar to those used on Copper River. Their dogs, however, are much larger than those of the country south of them, owing to the introduction of English breeds. These people, like all the natives of Alaska, are natural traders, as evidenced by the number of hands through which an article will pass before being rendered unfit for use. A shirt originally belong- ing to the Abercrornbie party was obtained at Alaganik by a Copper River native, who traded it to one of his fellows. This one wore it as far as Batzulnetas and there traded it to a native accompanying us, who carried it over Miles's Pass to Xandell's, and it was there again disposed of. In the mean time it had twice changed hands amongst the native members of 'our party. Had it not become worn out, it might have found its way to the Yukon. We saw at Tetling's house an ax with a Montreal brand on it, also a pair of sailor's trousers and RECONNAISSANCE IX ALASKA— ALLEN. 139 a Thlinkit blanket, both, of which doubtless came from Chilcat Inlet, the former primarily from the man-of-war stationed at Sitka. Should the natives of the Tanana or Copper River commit out- rages upon the whites who may be making their way into the interior, of such a nature as to justify the intervention of the military, many difficulties would be encountered before redress could be obtained. To stop the sale of ammunition and arms would be a sad blow to them, but a decidedly negative retaliation. To get a force into the interior marching would be necessary, and could be accomplished more easily than the party could be subsisted after its arrival at its field of action. To ascend either the Copper or Tanana by steam is out of the ques- tion. To reach Nandell's, on the north side, or Batzulnetas, on the south side, by cordelling up these rivers, would be to arrive at either place without subsistence stores. To set out from the mouth of either river when there was ice, with sleds well packed, would be to come to grief for want of food before these headwaters were reached, if an attempt were made to subsist entirely on the stores started with. This would be especially true in the case of the Tanana. The most feasible method would be to ascend the Yukon as far as Fort Reliance by steamboat, and to pack the stores across to the Tanana on the backs of men and dogs. Even after that river was reached by this method the stores would soon be exhausted unless frequent depots were made along the route and additional supplies sent forward continually. If the objective were the lower part of the Tanana River, a steamboat would solve the problem of transportation. If, however, it were the Copper River, the portage from Fort Reliance could be continued across the Alaskan Range. Once on the Copper, food in the form of salmon would be abundant, and a severe retaliation could be inflicted by patroling the river, thus preventing, if possible, the natives from taking fish during the summer. By this .means a large number of them would perish the following winter. From extensive observation and from conversation with men who have traveled extensively in the Territory, I am of the opinion that- pack animals other than dogs or reindeer are not practicable anywhere in the interior save in an occasional locality, and then for a short dis- tance, not exceeding a few miles. That other than these would die during the winter, unless special provision were made, there can be no doubt. The footing in many places would render an ordinary mule pack train of as little or less value than a flotilla of small boats. Grass in these high latitudes has given place to a deep bed of moss and lichens, which it is hardly probable would subsist horses, mules, oroxen. Occasionally small sections of the Territory are seen where the growth of grass is luxuriant, yd such an occurrence is generally accompanied by the sight of marshes. II is a significant Pad that the burning of the moss givesrise to a hardy growth of grass, which practice may in the future be advantageously ased. 140 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. In view of the above considerations, special care should be taken in selecting a force to be sent into this country. Each man should be chosen for his obedience, strength, endurance, and ability to live in a country where food is difficult to obtain ; in other words, each should be soldier, hunter, packer, and his own commissary. I know of no class of men so capable of fulfilling these conditions as mineral prospectors, whose occupation frequently requires the exercise of such accomplishments. Strategically considered there are no people within the boundaries of the United States so favorably situated as the above-mentioned tribes of the Tinneh family. Gifted by nature with the skill and cunning of their southern relations, and inhabiting a much more inaccessible and foodless country, depredations and other crimes could be committed with correspondingly greater impunity. NATIVES OF THE KOYUKUK RIVER. Notwithstanding the vast extent of country occupied by these people, they differ so little from each other that the term Koyukuns, previously used, may with propriety be applied to all of them . They belong to the Tinneh family, and possibly the term Koyuktana, or "Koyiikuk-Khotana" would, for uniformity, be more properly applied. The river on which they live possesses a moderate current, is free from falls or rapids, hence offers a ready and easy way for commu- nication ; yet I doubt whether the natives on its upper waters will descend it to its mouth so long as they can trade at Nuklukyet or meet the fur traders at Konodtena village. Their most northern settlement, which is in approximate latitude 66° 44', longitude 150° 47', is on the Nohoolchintna near its mouth, while the most southern ■ one is near the junction of the river with the Yukon, more than 500 miles below. All of these people readily converse with the Unakhotanas at Nuklukyet and Nulato, though some words are entirely different from those used at the nearest points on the Yukon to represent the same idea. In appearance they differ so little, from their Yukon relations that a description of them seems hardly necessary. They are on record, according to all persons who have written of them, as being warlike people, due perhaps to their participation in the Nulato massacre, previously mentioned. Those living on the upper part of the river are too poverty-stricken and miserable to attempt anything that would not assist them in obtaining food or clothing. They report that a severe epidemic carried away many of their number in the winter of 1882-83. At the only villages above Batzakakat, viz, Konootena and Nohoolchmtna, are eleven men, four of whom, to- gether with one woman and one child, are deaf-mutes. We did not RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 141 see all of the inhabitants of the last-named village, so it is possible there may be others similarly afflicted. The total number of Koyukuns, estimating the settlements on the Hussliakatna and Cawtaskakat as containing fourteen and ten, re- spectively, is 276. This is a more accurate census than can usually be made of the natives. Besides these there was an Innuit family of five living temporarily on the river. To show how the Koyukuk is populated, I cite the following : Between Red Shirt's village and the extreme northern settlement, a distance by the river of 363 miles, were thirteen settlements, temporary and permanent, with inhabit- ants numbering 161 ; between Red Shirt's village and the mouth of the river were five settlements, containing 65 souls ; while at his village alone were 45. Of this population it is noticed that 66 are men, 79 women, and 129 children, a fact that shows that the division as to sex is very different from that usually found among uncivilized people who struggle so hard for existence. The principal subsistence of these people is fish, which includes several varieties besides the salmons, chief among which in point of numbers is the clog salmon. They bemoan most bitterly the scarcity of game, and at several settlements they endeavored to purchase a young caribou skin, part of my bed, to use in making winter clothing. The existence of a people living under such adverse circumstances as do those of the upper part of the river cannot be of long duration. Before the 12th of August they had had a warning of winter in the form of a snow squall. Many of the Koyukuns are armed with old-fashioned rim-fire Win- chester magazine rifles, caliber . 44, which have been obtained, through the Eskimos, from whaling vessels. While possessing this gun, it is seldom that it can be utilized for want of cartridges. Besides these they have shot-guns, usually the single-barrel muzzle-loader, and bows and arrows. They make portages over the mountains to the north from Fickett, Allenkakat, and Dakliakakat Rivers, presumably to the Colville and Kowuk, or Holootana River, as the Koyukuns call it. They also portage to the Tozikakat and descend it to the Yukon, or else use the trail we followed from the Yukon. Those lower down pass to the headwaters of the Kotzebue Sound, where they exchange commodi- ties with the Eskimos. Natives from Red Shirt's village have occa- sionally gone as far as Saint Michael's to trade. Now that Nulato is abandoned, such journeys will be almost a necessity if they desire to trade during the winter season. What may be said with respect to the education of the Yukon na1 Lves will equally apply to these. I know of no place in the possession of the United States where charity could with more justice be dispensed than among these people and those of the Lower Yukon. If the Government desires 142 RECONNAISSENCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. that this people should continue to exist, some provision for them should soon be made. Fish food is sufficiently abundant to support them, but the prospects of obtaining clothing material are rapidly growing darker. It is a mistaken idea, that of supposing the interior of Alaska possessed of much large game. To show the scarcity of such, I will say that during our entire travel from latitude 00° 20' to 50 miles within the Arctic Circle, thence to Saint Michael's, over a route covering 18° of longitude, we did not see a single moose or car- ibou, and but one bear, a small black one. During the greater part of the winter of 1884-85 Messrs. Mayo and La Due, who wintered at Fort Reliance, had rabbits only for meat, notwithstanding repeated efforts were made by themselves and their Indian hunters to obtain large game. THE NATIVES OF THE YUKON. The natives of the Yukon River, from the mouth of the Tanana to the sea, have been described by Dall and others, and the term " Inga- lik " has been applied to those living between Nulato and that part of the country occupied by the Innuits, or Eskimos. This word is of Eskimo origin, and was originally used by them to represent all the inland people. The name given by the Ingaliks to themselves, however, is Kaiyu-Khotana, which means people of the lowlands (Dall). Their appearance shows them to be the Tinneh family, niodi- /fied by a liberal infusion of Eskimo blood. Their continued intercourse with Russians and whites for fifty years has had its effect in altering their customs, though it is not evident that the association has been beneficial to them. With the introduction of fire-arms was begun an extermination of the once numerous herds of caribou, which supplied clothing and a liberal part of their food. The scarcity of these animals now causes a greater dependence on the traders for clothing and at the same time deprives them of a possible source of revenue from the sale of its meat and sinew. They must now depend almost solely on fish and berries to continue their existence as a people. Beginning at Nuklukyet and descending the Yukon, the increase of poverty and squalor is very noticeable. A marked loss of self- respect is also apparent. Their poverty-stricken, humiliated condi- tion is taken advantage of by the traders, who demand from them much greater prices for the usual commodities than are obtained from the bolder and more independent natives who assemble at the trading stations farther up the river. Had these people a sale for the thousands of excellent salmon that yearly ascend their rivers their future would not be so dark as it now necessarily is. Between Nuklukyet and Yakutskalitnik I saw many natives who barely had sufficient material to hide their nakedness, and furthermore their RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEX. 143 prospects of obtaining winter clothing were indeed meager. The destruction of the large game has been very rapid, and whether or not these natives will survive the resulting destitution without governmental interposition is doubtful. The Ingaliks constitute the most numerous tribe of the Tinneh family in the Territory of Alaska, and may be estimated to number 1,300. I have used D all's designation for the natives living between the mouth of the Tanana and Nulato, Mnakho-tana, which includes the inhabitants of the two last-named places. They number about 550 souls. The blending of these natives with the Ingaliks is so uniform that no exact line can be drawn separating the two. Both are called by themselves Yukoni-khotanas, which means people of the Yukon River country. Neither these nor the In'galiks are governed by the tyone system. A stronger influence is probably exerted by the shamans, who include in their numbers both sexes. It will require a long time to eradicate the much-abused faith imposed in them by their parishioners. Mi- nook, a sensible Indian, who speaks English, was, to judge from his conversation, much opposed to shamanism. His child at ISTuklukyet having become seriously ill with " summer complaint, " he applied to me for medicine, which I gave. Unwilling to await results, and probably having become convinced that the child was too sick for white man's medicine, the shaman was called about midnight to be- gin his incantations. These were continued every few nights until the child died. The shaman in attendance was a smart, fine-looking young man, reputed to possess great powers. I give below his method, which, though homeopathic as far as relates to the child, was decid- edly allopathic as to himself. A piece of canvas was spread on the ground, around which all the natives at the village sat singing an intermittent, spirited chant or dirge. On the canvas was the shaman, covered with a blanket, with which several Indians were trying to conceal and keep him on the canvas, while he was groaning, yelling, and indulging in all sorts of contortions, all the while keeping time with his noises and kicks to the spasmodic singing of the surround- ing group. At one corner of the canvas Minook, with his child in his arms, was sitting. After writhing and groaning under the blanket for an hour or more, the shaman thrust his feet into Minook's lap. under the wraps of the child. He lay in that position for some time, when he broke away witli the disease of the child in his pos- sesion. Then began a terrible struggle with the disease in order t<> drive it back into the keeping of the evil spirit. During this contest he tore his shirt from his body, floundered to the top of the blanket, and seemed to suffer the mosl excruciating pains. At the end of about two hours, when his exertions had become less violent, one of the natives seized him. drew hi ; bead into bis lap. blew into one ear, 144 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. then into the other, and then pressed hard on the top of his head. The shaman remained in a stupor until a second Indian jumped up and gave him another pressure on the head, which completed the process of resuscitation and enabled him to immediately arise and join in the general conversation. At another time he made a medi- cine while under the blanket and fastened it around the child's neck, before coming from under his cover. The result of the teachings and example of Mr. Simms, a deceased missionary of the Church of England, is plainly noticeable, and as valuable to the traders as to the natives, all of whom express a warm feeling for his memory. There are now, besides the hundreds of Indian children along the Lower Yukon, the Lower Kuskokwim, and the coast north and south of Saint Michael's, twelve or fifteen half-breed children of traders living at present on the Yukon, who are very desirous that their offspring should be educated, and who affirm that the Indian parents in a large measure wish the same ad- vantages for theirs. The only place of instruction available is the Mission, 217 miles from the coast, where the preceptor is a half- breed Russian priest, incapable of teaching English. The question of an industrial education, the system of instruction now supposed to be best for Indian children, for the Yukon River natives, is certainly a subject for consideration. The question natu- rally suggests itself, what industry can be taught children living in such an inhospitable climate as theirs, where winter begins the first < 1 of September and ends the middle of May, when the ice goes out of the river? The primary object of the education should be to teach them more feasible methods of living. If it be proved that their country is capable of producing the hardy vegetables and grain, or that it is rich in mineral resources, then their education will find fields for its application. If, however, it continue in the future what it has been to them in the past, valuable only for its fish and game, instruction of any kind would be of doubtful value. For now, after generations of experience, do they not better understand securing their fish and animal food than white men can teach them? Of the former they obtain all they desire, while of the latter they secure yearly all that can be and more than should be taken. Their houses are quite in keeping with their mode of living, and good enough for their present surroundings ; why change them ? Without the further development of their country, or financial assistance, I cannot see that the benefits of an industrial education would in any manner be for their welfare. The education of the natives in Southern Alaska, whereby they are better prepared for several industries which are established in or near their homes, is quite a different affair. In their own country there is at present no employment open to the Yukon natives and their neighbors save the securing of food and the trapping of a few fur-bearing animals. The policy of educating RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN; 145 them and sending them to another part of olir country for employ- ment would he an extremely questionable one, as would he that of educating them elsewhere and sending them hack to their people, With plenty of food and warm clothes there is no reason why these people, who have for generations inhabited the Yukon, should not continue to so do; but with food consisting of fish only, and a scarcity of clothing material brought about by an improvident de- struction of large game, their existence from a sociological point of riew is not long. If tribes of Indians living in the West and Southwest of the United States, where the climate is genial as compared to that of the interior of Alaska, and where food products are comparatively easily ob- tainable, receive, as a matter of right or policy, support from the Government in part or whole, certainly these people, nearly destitute of clothing, should at least have assistance in that direction. That their moral and spiritual welfare could be much improved by schools, and that their ideas respecting sanitary laws could be vantageously modified, is not to be questioned; yet by all means let such changes be accompanied with presents of wearing apparel. The traders informed me that there has already been much suffering during the winters from want of proper clothing. The entire number of souls on the Yukon above Nuklukyet is estimated at five to six hundred; but these have as yet not seriously suffered for want of skins for clothing material. In general appear- ance they resemble the Nabesnatanas. ESKIMOS, OR JNNUITS. It is not within the scope of this report to enter into a description of the customs and manner of living of the Eskimos of Alaska, for the reason that more or less has been written about them from the time of the discovery of Stewart Island, on which Saint Michael's is situated, until the present time. For their description, numbers, and location I would refer the reader to the report of Mr. Ivan Petroff , special agent of the census, which is as reliable as any publication on the subject. I will say, however, that any attempt at an accurate census would require more time than was allotted to Mr. Petroff. Captain Healy, commanding the Convin, whose observations in Northern Alaska have extended over a period of fifteen years, esti- mates the number of Eskimos from Saint Michael's along the coast to Point Barrow at 3,000, and the number in the interior between these t w ( > points at 2,000. The number between Saint Michael's and Cook's Inlet, including the interior, according to Mr. Petroff, is about 9,800. The same general characteristics may be seen among all the Alas- kan Eskimos. A single glance at the accompanying photograph is S. Ex. 125 10 146 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. sufficient to at once distinguish the subjects of it from the Indians of the interior. The picture fairly represents the type. The central figure is that of a native employed by us on the Koyukuk, and who served as our pilot from the village at the mouth of that river to Saint Michael's. In general they live near the coast, where food is more easily obtainable, though in the interior a few were met on the Upper Koyukuk at probably the greatest distance from salt water that they are ever found. The few natives that people the Upper Kowuk and Nowatak are the same family. Besides the foregoing, the principal natives are the Aleuts, who live on the Aleutian Islands, and the Koldshes, or Thlinkets, who occupy Southeastern Alaska from near the mouth of Copper River to the southernmost limit of the Territory. PAET V. OBSERVATIONS SOME OF THE ANIMALS OF ALASKA. GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. VOLCANIC ACTION. GLACIAL AND DILUVIAL DEPOSITS. MINERALS. 147 SOME OP THE ANIMALS OF ALASKA. In mentioning the animals of Alaska I will begin with, those used by the natives for food. While we did not see all of the forms named in the following brief descriptions in their wild states, their pelts or flesh, sometimes both, were at some time of the journey found either in the possession of the natives or the traders of the Yukon, and carefully examined. To the latter practically all the furs of the Yukon shed are carried and through them transferred to Saint Michael's, whence they are transported to San Francisco. Of the ruminants I mention first the Cervidse family, in which the moose, Alces machlis, is given precedence on account of its impor- tance as a food and clothing producing animal. It is almost iden- tical with that found in Northern Maine and formerly in Northern Minnesota, and is the animal which the natives largely depend upon for fat in certain parts of the Territory. It is claimed that they seek the islands of the rivers to bring forth the young, where they have greater immunity from wolves and mosquitoes than is offered on the hills and mountains. If this be true, it is to me but another proof of the scarcity of the animal in the Territory, for our courses along the rivers were necessarily among the islands, on which we frequently landed, to find nothing more than an occasional track. The natives, like most hunters, value the nose as the choicest j)art of the moose, and I doubt if any one who has tried it will question their taste. Three forms of the Rangifer tarandus are supposed to be known to the Territory — the barren-ground caribou, the woodland caribou, and the reindeer — the former being confined to Northern Alaska. The two latter-named species, if both exist, south of the Yukon, arc, to the best of my knowledge, called by the natives by the same name, honnai. The average lionnai when dressed will weigh from 200 to 250 pounds. Its horns seem to partake both of the nature of those of common deer and of the moose, the ends of sonic branches being (flattened, while others are rounded. None of these animals are spotted, as are the reindeer of the Asiatic side, but all become very light in color during the winter. On the Copper and Tanana" Rivers these animals, as well as the moose, are hunted when ihe snow is deep and hard, with the aid of dogs, when they are brought fco bay and killed at shorl distances. A native has, Indeed, been known b< run down a moose and kill him with a knife, hut this is rare. They 149 150 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. are also snared, as previously described. There is a species of deer, quite numerous, inhabiting Southern Alaska and the Archipelago, but it does not find its way far into the interior. It is probably the Cariacus columbianus, or Columbia black-tailed deer, somewhat changed by the condition of his surroundings. These constitute a large portion of the meat ration of Sitka and Juneau. I have the skin of one of these animals now in my possession, which is about the same shade of blue as the fur seal, though this color is not the rule. Of the Bovidse family there are two recognized species, the Ma- zama montana, or the small-horned goat of the Rocky Mountains, white in color. This animal has black horns, with little curvature, and is found on the Copper River and the Upper Yukon. The Ovis montana dalli is a new geographical race of the mountain sheep or big-horn. It has been described as follows by Mr. E. W. Nelson, formerly of the United States Signal Corps: This form, can be recognized at once by the nearly uniform dirty- white color, the light-colored rump, as seen in typical Montana, being entirely uniform with the rest of the body in Dalli. The dinginess of the white over the entire body and limbs appears to be almost entirely due to the ends of the hairs being commonly tipped with a dull rusty speck. On close examination this tipping of the hairs makes the fur look as though it had been slightly singed. This form also has smaller horns than its southern relatives, but how the two compare in general size and weight I am unable to say. I name this form in honor of Mr. W. H. Dall, whose scientific work in Alaska is so well known. Whether the big-horn mountain sheep, Ovis canadensis, exists in Alaska I am unable to say, but I desire to add also a new geograph- ical race of the same. The animal in question is called by the natives tebdy, and this name I leave unchanged until a specimen will have been carried out of the Territory. We killed several of these animals, one of which, a ram, had horns 20 inches long and nearly straight. Their structure was similar to that of the big-horn, but the curvature was very slight. This ram was killed on a very high point, such a place as is usually sought by them, and in its fall was sadly mangled. The head of the tebdy is much like that of a Southdown sheep, the muzzle much less pointed than in Nelson's big- horn. The hair is of a uniform white, in fact, nearly equal to his snow surroundings in color, and is nearly as easily broken as that of the antelope. Next to the skin is a very fine short wool, which is very strong. In size the tebdy is probably an equal of its relative, the big-horn. I saw a spoon made from the horn of one that meas- ured 26 inches in length and 5 inches across the bowl. We were in- formed that some had much larger horns than the one that furnished material for this spoon. This, like most statements of natives, is questionable. The large ram and one other were killed on the most northerly tributary of the Chittystone River. The natives informed RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 151 us that small tebdy could be killed a few miles below the junction of the Chittystone, a fact we doubted, and hence chose to allow them the use of our carbines. They passed the night on the mountains north of the Chittyna River, and returned with four small ones that would weigh when dressed probably 65 pounds. The heads were left on the mountains, but the bodies brought in seemed identical with those obtained on the Chittystone River. Why only small ones should be found at this place in the latter part of April I cannot say; yet the mountains here were not so high as farther to the east, where the large ones had been killed. The last of these animals seen or heard of by us were near the headwaters of Copper River, on the divide between it and the Tanana River. As a food-producing animal in the interior of the Territory, the rabbit takes rank next. Had there been none of these our prospects would have been more gloomy than can well be described. For days and weeks almost our sole dependence was on these little animals, and during a season when they did not possess a particle of fat. They are probably the northern varying hare, possibly a little differ- ent from those found in New England. In size they are probably intermediate between the "rabbit" of the Middle States and the "jack rabbit" of the plains of Northern United States. The ears are very long and the tips of them is the only portion of the animal that is not covered with snow-white fur during the winter. During the deep snow period their only food is from the trees, many of which are barked all around near the ground by them. During this period groves of small cottonwoods or birches are favorite resorts for them and can be relied on to furnish a meal, providing the hunter is skilled in quietly passing through timber. The polar hare, Lepus timidus, is much larger than the "jack rabbit" of the plains, and is gener- ally confined to the far north of the Territory. The pelts of both these varieties of hares are largely used for clothing and blankets. The beaver is quite universally distributed throughout the Terri- tory, and is valuable as a food as well as for its pelt. Its habits are not unlike those practiced by the same animal farther south. The Felicidse or cat family claims the Canada lynx as probably the only variety inhabiting Alaska. This is the animal known in Montana as the "bob-tail cat," much larger, however, and while prized for its fur is also valued for its meat, which is by no means unpalatable, as many would suppose. In the Canidae family there are four varieties of foxes and tw< ► oi wolves. The former are the arctic, red, cross, and silver or black foxes, valued for the pelts in the inverse order of the naming. The arctic fox, Vulpes lagopns, found specially in the most northern dis- tricts, is white in winter and of a bluish tint in summer. I have never heard of them south of the Alaskan Mountains. The other varieties are more 'generally distributed, though the trading station 152 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. at Fort Reliance receives annually about 75 pelts of black or silver foxes, Fulvus argentatus variety, which is more than all the other stations of the Yukon obtain. The wolves are the gray and the black, both large and quite scarce. Their pelts are specially valued by the natives for trimming other furs, and, like the wolverine skins, are in such demand that but few leave the Territory, the natives being willing to give a greater equivalent in other furs than would justify their shipment by the traders. The bear family is represented by three varieties in the interior, the black, the brown, and the grizzly, besides the white bear of the coast and northern islands. There were several hunting parties landed from the Corwin on Hall's Island, north of the Aleutian group, on her return, and on one of the hunts Mr. Townsend, of the Smithsonian, killed one of the last-named animals. The black bear is most frequently met, though thee xperience of others as well as ourselves is that it is possible to see but few of any description. Of the weazel family I mention first the North American otter, valuable only for its fur, and generally known as the land-otter. The wolverine, about equal in value to the land-otter, is a rather rare animal, possessing a long, coarse fur, more highly appreciated by the natives than by more civilized people. The common mink is the most numerous of the fur-bearing animals of the interior, and more abun- dant on the lower Yukon than elsewhere. Next to it in numbers is the American marten, or sable, considered the unit of exchange in /the dealings between the traders and the natives, and for which one dollar in merchandise, at Alaska prices, is given. I should not fail to mention the musk-rat, a variety of the mouse family, which more than once helped serve us as a meal. In size they are about one-half that of the same animal of the Middle States. Their skins are much used for blankets and parkies. Of the squirrel family but two varieties were seen, the little mar- mot, Arctomys priunosus, which forms such an important factor in clothing the natives, and a very small gray squirrel of a reddish tinge, generally found in spruce timber. The porcupine has been previously mentioned. For description of the sea animals the reader is referred to a report on the seal fisheries by Mr. H. W. Elliott, of the Smithsonian. The subject of fisheries has not been touched in this report, though a great deal could be said in reference to it, notwithstanding what has already been written. There is practically no limit to the quan- tity of salmon that can be taken in the limits of the Territory, includ- ing the coast waters and the rivers. At present the extreme low prices are discouraging to the establishments already in operation. Salmon in the San Francisco market is worth little more than one- third the amount paid for them a few years since. The increase in the cod fisheries has been indeed wonderful, and this notwithstand- RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 153 ing little or no efforts have been made to survey the cod banks. This industry maybe said to have had its origin in 1880, since which time the statistics are quite interesting. The manufacture of oil from herring by the Northwest Fur and Trading Company is an in- dustry of considerable proportions, and capable of much greater de- velopments should the markets demand. I have previously reported to the Government on this establishment. When the Western country will have become as thickly populated as the most populous States the fish of Alaska will be of untold value in supporting its inhabitants. GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. VOLCANIC ACTION. If we inquire when those mighty masses of bold and picturesque rock, covering hundreds of square miles, were upheaved, we must look for answer to the same causes that are the foundations of the theories respecting the ranges in the western part of the United States. It is reasonably supposed that the Rocky Mountain Range in early geologi- cal history constituted the land of the western part of our country, and that the face of the earth to its west, now represented by mount- ain ranges and valleys, was then water. During the Paleozoic and a great portion of the Mesozoic eras this huge chain was subjected to erosions, resulting in deposits which were upheaved in the rudimentary Sierra Nevada and Cascade Ranges, fol- lowed much later by the upheaval of the Coast Range. Volcanic action and erosion have served to present them as we see them to-day. If this theory be true, it is possible that the same conditions were coex- istent in Alaska, as the ranges now help to attest. The Rocky Mount- ains extend to the Arctic Ocean by following a course nearly parallel with that portion of the Yukon River between old Fort Selkirk and Fort Yukon, while to the south of the Yukon are the Alaskan Range, which attains its loftiest elevations in the sickle of Copper River, and the Saint Elias Range, extending around Prince William's Sound to beyond Cook's Inlet, its northerly limit being the Chittyna River. Both these ranges now have active volcanoes, as did the Cascade and Coast Ranges very recently. In fact, it has been claimed by some who have visited Mount Hood that sulphurous gases are yet escaping from near its summit, while Mount Saint Helen's has been described by more than one eye-witness as an active volcano. Notwithstanding the appearance of a new volcano, Bogoslov, in 1883, just north of Oonalaska Island, it is supposed that volcanic action is less than existed in the Territory during its earliest occupation. This supposition is a doubtful one, owing to the fact that the record, i relative to the matter date back only to the latter part of the seven- teenth century. More than fifty peaks are known to have at times been seen in action, and some of these that are now quiet may again bee* )ine active from the old craters, as our limited records have shown, or else may form new cones, as in the case of Bogoslov, about which several persons have recently written During our visit to that vol- 155 156 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. cano it was emitting vapors and sulphurous gases in such quantities as to nearly conceal its upper portion. A few hundred yards distant was the old Bogoslov, quietly resting, as though satisfied with her offspring. Mount Wrangell, elevation 17,500 feet, was, during our stay in the Copper Kiver Valley, continually sending up alight vapor, apparently uniform in volume, while during a great portion of the winter of 1884-85 it was, according to the only eye-witness other than natives, John Bremner, emitting grand volumes of smoke and fire, such as to present a weird and sublime picture. He claims that the fire shot above the crater a distance that appeared three times greater than the height of the mountain. Whether all the prominent peaks in this vicinity possess extinct craters could not be determined, though Mount Drum readily showed that it was an extinct volcano. South of the Tanana River and north of the Kuskokwim is an extension of the Alaskan Range containing some peaks several thousand feet higher than exist where we crossed the range; yet no volcanic action exists. North of the Yukon to the Arctic the ranges are comparatively low;- the highest are Endicott Mountains, between the Koyukuk and Kowuk Rivers, which doubtless contain the headwaters of the Col- ville River. I am disposed to think that no volcanic activity has ever been witnessed in Alaska in a higher latitude than is Mount Wrangell (approximately 62° 25' N.), notwithstanding the reports relative to the peaks south of the Tanana, previously alluded to. GLACIAL AND DILUVIAL DEPOSITS. Diluvium is found everywhere, and the Territory of Alaska is a striking picture of that deposited by ice rivers or glaciers as well as mountain torrents. The existence of rolled pebbles and bowlders, sometimes in huge quantities in the high banks of streams, some- times on the tops and declivities of mountains as well as in the valleys between, their entire dissimilarity from the rocks of the country in which they lie, are geological characteristics specially noticeable in the Copper River shed. In the study of the action of water in its relation to geological changes American students have always found an ample field at home. Not so, however, with respect to glacial actions, for we find our most exhaustive treatise on this subject confined almost exclusively to the Alps glaciers. Let our specialists in the future seek fields in our own province, where the system is probably more extensive than in any other country south of the Arctic Circle. I refer to that portion of the Territory from Chilcat Inlet up to Cook's Inlet, and especially to that portion drained by the Copper River. How far glacial action has been concerned in^the determination of the topography will long be a subject for study. My observations RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 157 are such as to cause a belief in an ice sheet that at one time extended from the Alaskan Mountains to the coast (as to how much farther from the north it came I have nothing to say). It may at first be con- sidered at variance with the theory of contemporary upheaval of this part of the Territory with the ranges of the western part of the United States; an examination, however, of the true condition of affairs will reconcile this. Long' after the upheaval followed the glacial peri< >d, producing the ice-sea, which by its steady motion to the south has largely assisted in giving the country its present configuration. From Yakutat Bay to the mouth of Copper River is an unbroken face of ice for a distance of 50 miles. How far this extends to the interior through the gorges of the coast range is unknown, though it may be safe to consider the distance equal to that of the glaciers of Copper River from its mouth. These latter may be considered an extension of the ice fronting the coast, which the Copper River for- merly flowed under. There is every reason to believe that Miles's and Childs' Glaciers at one time were one and the same, an opinion that is in some way strengthened by the tradition of the natives. The most southerly point of the former on the left bank is 1 mile or less from the most northerly point of the latter on the right bank, while in the river-bed between are well-worn bowlders, 8 to 12 feet in diameter, and on the left bank, below Miles's Glacier and opposite Childs' Glacier, is an enormous glacial drift, now covered with vegetation. Where it joins to Miles's it is impossible to distinguish the drift from the glacier. The flow of these is now doubtless from east to west for those on the left bank, and from west to east for those on the right bank; yet this is probably not the general course the ice masses had when they were much larger than at present. They are but a residuum of the once extensive ice fields now discharging along the paths of least resistance. Had not the climate here been moist and favorable for glacier-making, the present site would have been occupied by only drift or moraine, as is the case farther north, above the Chittyna, on the east bank of the Copper River, where for many miles are terraces, large and small, the deposits of ancient glaciers. The smaller ones are so regularly formed as to leave the impression that they were the fronts of old fortifications. In Blake's Stickeen River he makes mention of the scarcity of well-defined terraces, while Dall failed to observe any in the vicinity of Sitka and the Alaska Peninsula. The source of both the Copper and Chill yn.i Rivers are glaciers, though indeed small when compared to the ones above mentioned. I can only account for the remarkable width of the bed of the Cop- per by the supposition that it was excavated by the power of gigantic ice masses and the eroding effects of the torrenl waters from it. The volume of water in proportion to the widt li of bed is less 1 ban in any river within my knowledge, while the banks, as a rule, are steep and 158 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. high. By an examination of the map it will be seen that the Alas- kan Mountains form an arc convex to the northward ; hence the lines of least resistance of ice masses in moving from these mountains to the southward tended to intersect in the present Copper Valley. The power obtained by the enormous now from all sides produced the remarkable excavations cited above. I earnestly hope that glacial action in this- district will receive early attention at the hands of competent men. A simple inspection of the map of Alaska by a student of nature will show that this spot was the scene of most powerful action, the traces of which are cor- respondingly clearly preserved. North of the Alaskan Mountains I failed to see any of these re- markable glacial phenomena, though from reports of miners they may be found on the White River. MINERALS. The minerals of Copper River have long been a source of specula- tion, owing to pieces of pure copper, knives and bullets of the same metal, having been brought down to the coast by the natives. Some of the specimens are supposed to be associated with native silver, and in fact I had heard of some brought down which was reported to have assayed in Boston $80 per ton in silver and 60 per cent, of copper. Nicolai' s house is supposed to be in the heart of the mineral region, and by him we were shown the locality of a vein which at that season of the year, April, was above the snow line. He gave us, however, some specimens which proved to be bornite, a sulphuret of copper and iron. He said the pure copper was on the Chittyto River, between his house and the central branch of the Chittyna, as well as on the other tributaries of the same. He had bullets of pure copper in his possession, obtained, he said, from the natives over the mountains, though his supply consisted of three or four. We found specimens of bornite also in the hands of the natives at Nandell's, just north of the range. I do not believe that the natives guard as a secret treasure the copper or other mineral beds, but think that they would willingly reveal to the white man their knowledge in the matter. The two prospectors of my party found with difficulty color at the mouth of Copper River, but were not at all pleased with the pros- pects farther up. In ascending the Copper River it was observed that the banks, especially the east one, about 20 miles below Taral, were a green horn- blendic rock, intersected by small mineral-bearing quartz veins. These gave way to a green basalt near the southern extremity of Wood's Canon, which had at its northern end a fine quality of slate that split easily into laminae transversely to its bed. Parts of the bluff showed more than one distinct cleavage. RECONNAISSANCE IX ALASKA— ALLEX. 159 A few miles from, the month of the Chittyna it cuts through bluffs of beautiful greenstone, intersected by white veins, which appeared to be limestone. The pebbles and bowlders of this river-bed are much discolored by copper stains, but not to such a remarkable degree as those of its tributary, the Chittystone. The mountains around the headwaters of the latter are sandstone and felspathic granite. A feature of some of the high banks of the Upper Copper are the strata of bowlders, many feet below the surface, and separated by a distance of 6 to 8 feet. These banks are specially remembered on account of an incident occurring at the foot of one which disabled one of my native employes. As the frost leaves the face of the banks the pebbles and bowlders become loose and start down the steep bank to the river. To pass them without injury it is neces- sary to be a skillful dodger. A very strong native was struck in the head by one, which sent him to the ground with a profusion of blood from the nose, disabling him for further work. On the east bank of the Copjjer, about 8 miles above Gakona River, is a deposit of fragmentary porphyritic rock 8 feet below the surface and 50 feet above the water line. On the Alaskan Mount- ains, not far from Lake Suslota, is a bed of pebbles and bowlders immediately under the vegetation. The banks of the Upper TanaM, where there is rock, are gen- erally composed of a yellowish granite, fast undergoing disintegra- tion, as evidenced by the innumerable particles of mica suspended in the river and the ever-shifting quicksands. On the lower river the rocky banks are more basaltic in appearance. There has been little or no attempt at prospecting on this river. Our party tried for color a number of times without success. There have been, within the last few years, a number of miners on the Upper Yukon and its tributaries, in search of gold. So far their success lias been but partial; the best result that has come within my knowledge was an equivalent of 81,100 in gold and pla- tinum, taken from a bar in the river by two men in one season. Gold-bearing quartz of a very low grade has been found in a few places, but its value would hardly justify the working of it. On the northern bank of the Koyukuk are indications of coal- beds, as shown on the map. The geological formation of t lie country drained by this river is in appearance very similar to that of the Yukon from Yakutskalitnik up, so that what may be written with respect to the geology of the Yukon will in a large measure apply to it. There are two mines in Alaska that promise well. viz. 1 he galena mines near Golovma Bay. Norton Sound, and the gold-quartz mines of Douglas Island. In a recent report to the commanding general, Department of Columbia. I stated that if the cosl of working the 160 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. latter mine were twice that claimed, and the return of metal one- half the amount claimed, the property would be a most valuable one. In these few brief observations I do not pretend to enumerate all the claims to mineral wealth of the Territory. The coal measures in different parts will certainly deserve consideration, and may in the future prove of great value. The various reports relative to the mineral wealth of Alaska, some of which appear over the names of Territorial officials, are decidedly sensational and unreliable. There may be, and probably is, great mineral wealth in the interior, but as yet its location is unknown. From the nature of the country and shortness of the seasons, many years will be required to thoroughly ascertain the localities of valuable mineral veins. It is not my intention to discourage immi- gration to the Territory, yet I would gladly warn all who contem- plate it to regard with suspicion many of the current articles relative to the mineral wealth. PAET VI METEOROLOGY. 161 S. Ex. 125 11 METEOROLOGY. Sir : In submitting the following meteorological report I cannot but regret that the information which it contains is in so many respects incomplete. You always led our small party and participated equally in the hardships and sufferings of the expedition, sometimes dividing your small share of rotten fish or scraps of tallow with those who needed it perhaps less than you did. Hence it is not to you that I enumerate some of the trying circumstances under which the observations were taken, but to those who may look through these pages and perhaps wonder why so much valuable data are lacking. In the first place, geographical and physical, rather than meteoro- logical, knowledge was the object of the expedition. In the second place, our supplies having been necessarily abandoned at the mouth of Copper River in March, we were reduced to the absolute necessity of reaching the coast on Bering Sea or some provisioned trading-post on the Yukon River before winter set in, or of taking the chances of surviving a winter in that northern and inhospitable region without food, clothing, or supplies of any kind. Under these conditions nearly everything was sacrificed to rapid locomotion, traveling till exhausted, without regard to day or night, being a frequent necessity. The absence of observations between March 20 and April 8, the time occupied in traveling from Nuchek to Taral, will be accounted for by the fact that we were in an almost continuous storm of rain, sleet, or snow, accompanied by a cold, cutting wind, and were often wading in slush to our knees. We had no tentage, no protection from the raging elements except such as was furnished by our saturated clothing and wet blankets. Cold, hungry, and exhausted, we strug- gled on over that desolate and barren waste, making every exertion possible to get into the interior of the country and out of reach of the everlasting storms of the coast region. Under these conditions instrumental observations were utterly impossible. At Taral we learned that the copper deposits, from which Copper River is supposed to derive its name, were situated on its eastern tributary, the Chittyna. You decided to visit these deposits, and, as our time was limited, it was necessary that we make long and rapid marches and live on the country. Accordingly everything not abso- lutely needed was cached at this place, and with comparatively light packs on our backs we started on the march. The trip required ab< mt. a month, and on our return to the Copper River regular meteoro- 163 164 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. logical observations were begun and continued with as much uni- formity as was possible under existing circumstances. They were taken before leaving camp in the morning, generally about sunrise, and upon going into camp at night, from about 7 p. m. to midnight. During the day the instruments were rolled up in my blanket, which was securely bound in a compact bundle for convenient handling and packing. In this manner the observations were taken till our arrival at the first Indian village on the headwaters of the Tanana, June 10, 1885. Here Indian cunning, stimulated by curiosity and emboldened by our starved and helpless condition, surpassed our watchfulness, as shown by the fact that the hygrometer was stolen, and the barometer rendered useless by the results of the earnest endeavor of the natives to understand the nature of its interior construction. From this time no instrumental observations were taken except those for latitude and longitude. A daily journal of general meteorological import was, however, kept throughout the whole expedition, a synopsis of which, together with tables deduced therefrom, accompanies this report. So much has been written about the agricultural resources of Alaska, both pro and con — of extravagant claims on the one hand, and of earnest denial on the other — that it is doubly fortunate that I am able to present the data from which my conclusions are drawn. I believe that lettuce, radishes, turnips, beans, peas, potatoes, car- rots, and possibly buckwheat and barley, can be raised in favored localities on the Middle and Upper Yukon and Tanana in sufficient quantities to form an important auxiliary to the fish diet of the na- tives, and to assist in supporting those white men whom business compels to reside in that portion of the Territory. In the Copper River Valley conditions similar to those on the Yukon do not exist. The amount of precipitation and the humidity of the atmosphere, as evidenced by the tables, show a climate for that region north of Taral unlike that of any other portion of the Territory, and in my opinion the results that could be obtained would not justify an attempt at agriculture. In the coast regions, sunlight, that element so imperatively necessary to agricultural growth and development, is largely wanting. Here dense fog, low stratus and nimbus clouds continually intercept their impenetrable masses between the sun's rays and those unfortunate beings whom nature has placed in these localities. I use the term "unfortunate beings" advisedly, for cer- tainly it would be hard to find a more miserable and wretched class of people anywhere than those we found on the coast near the mouth of Copper River. Nature has furnished them food in the marine life that fills those waters, but has left them little else to be thankful for. The climatic conditions mentioned above are caused by the natural features of the country. As will be seen by a glance at the maps, a branch of the Rocky Mountains enters the Territory from the British RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. 165 possessions about 15 miles from the coast, and takes the name of Alaskan Mountains. They extend WjSTW. for about 175 miles, at which point they are about 200 miles from the coast. Here they gradually turn to the SW., and after reaching the coast are con- tinued as the Aleutian Islands, and finally disappear in the Pacific Ocean after extending SW. about 600 miles. Another range of mountains, in which is Mount Saint Elias and some other high peaks, extends from where these Alaskan Mountains enter the ocean along the southern coast, and joins them again in the British possessions. The territory inclosed by these two ranges of mountains is about 100 miles north and south, and 200 east and west. It is drained by the Copper River and its tributaries, the former beginning its way through the coast range at Wood's Canon, and emptying into the North Pacific Ocean. These two ranges are so high that they shut out nearly all the moisture from this region, both from the Pacific on the south, and from Bering Sea on the west. John Bremner, a miner, who passed the winter of 1884-'85 at Taral, told us that the snowfall during the winter was much less than he had anticipated, and even that was of an exceedingly light and dry character. The conditions we found during our journey verified his statements regarding precipitation. The rains during our travels in that region were very light. The habits of the natives, the fact that this is the only place in the Territory where salmon are cured by sun alone, as far as I know, and the amount of water discharged by the Copper River, all tend to prove that the rain king seldom invades this valley in force. But in the Yukon Valley different climatic con- ditions exist, owing to different natural features of the coast regions. From Bristol Bay north for 1:00 or 500 miles the coast is batjied by the same warm Japan current, and the same humid atmosphere prevails that characterizes the coast climate farther south, as is shown by an inspection of Table IV; but, unlike the southern re- gions, this moisture is not condensed on the coast, The low coast mountains allow it to be borne up the Yukon Valley and into the interior, where it is precipitated in the form of rain and snow. Hence the 8, 12, and even 15 feet of snowfall in the Yukon Valley, as contrasted with the much less depth in the Copper Valley, as stated by Bremner, is not to be wondered at. The same contrast in the summer precipitations is shown by the records appended. At Sitka, Nuchek, and Oonalaska, owing to the proximity of high mountain ranges, a large portion of the moisture of the atmosphere is condensed, causing those everlasting clouds, and rains with an annual precipitation of from 103 to 158 inches. But on the western coast these high mountains are replaced by others low enough to allow a large quantity of this moisture to pass over them into the interior, where it is precipitated over the territory drained by the Yukon and its tributaries, and finally finds its way back to the 166 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. coast again by the mouth of the former — that mighty river which for volume of water discharged is supposed to be second only to the great Mississippi on the American continent. It is a well-known scientific fact that vegetable life requires for its growth and development heat and moisture, and heat, too, supplied by the sun's rays. Now, in the Copper River Valley one of these elements, moisture, appears to be wanting, while in the coast regions the other, sunlight, is also wanting; hence my reasons for claiming that in neither of these regions can agricultural labors be entered upon with any prospects of remuneration. But in the Yukon Val- ley both these elements are present in sufficient quantities to appear to justifiy me in claiming, as I have, that certain kinds of the hardy vegetables may be raised there in certain localities. These claims are also sustained by the results of such agricultural experiments as have been attempted from time to time in this valley. A trader by the name of McQuisten told us that at Nuklukyet he had grown tur- nips weighing 6 pounds, also onions and potatoes of good size and quality. The same things have also been produced at Nulato and Fort Yukon, with the addition at the latter place of barley, which was sown and reached maturity during two successive years, the only ones in which it was tried. The grains were complete and well formed, though the straw was short. It might at first seem incredible that vegetables of any kind could be raised in these high latitudes, where the frost king of the north is Supposed to reign supreme; but when, during the short Arctic sum- mer, the giver of light and heat to this solar system ascends his throne over those northern regions, the frost king retires, and under the sun' s life-giving and invigorating rays vegetable life is stimulated to great activity. On the Middle and Upper Yukon the thermometer, when exposed to the direct rays of the sun, has been known to read 112° and 115° Fahr. This, together with the fact that at this season of year the sun is almost continuously above the horizon, will account for the small number of days required for some of the more hardy vegetables to reach maturity. The short summer season of these latitudes is, in consequence, more effective than the same number of days farther to the southward. The soil is generally of a sandy or clayey loam, mixed in places with vegetable matter and covered with a thick coating of moss. At a depth of 1 to 2 feet below the surface the soil usually remains frozen the year round. This is owing to the non-conductive nature of its moss covering. But the presence of ice at such a depth below the surface would not necessarily interfere with agricultural pur- suits; besides, by cultivation and proper drainage, the distance of the ice bed below the surface would be considerably increased. RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEX. ABSTRACT OF JOURNAL. 167 State of weather. A.M. P. M. Wind. Remarks. Fair Light rain . Heavy rain Cloudy Heavy rain Light rain . ...do.. ...do.. Cloudy Heavy rain ...do ...do Heavy rain Light rain ...do Fair Heavy rain Light rain Hy. rain and sleet Lt. rain and sleet . . ...do Fair Clear ...do Light rain Cloudy ...do Lt. rain and cloudy Lt. rain and sleet . . , Hy. rain and sleet . ...do Fair: cloudy Fan ...do Fail* ; Cloudy Sleet and snow Light snow Clear ....do Fair Clear Light snow ; fair . . . Fair Clear ...do ....do ....do ....do ....do Fair ....do ....do Cloudy ....do Fair; cloudy Light snow; fair Clear Light snow ; fair Light sleet; fair — Fair Light rain Fair 4 Sleet and snow Clear ...do ...do Sleet and snow . . . Light snow Fair Clear Fair ...do ...do ...do Clear ...do Fair; cloudy Clear ...do Fair Cloudy Fair Clear Cloudy ...do Lt. rain and snow Fair ...do Cloudy Fair ...do Light rain ...do Sleet ; fair. Clear ...do ...do E. E. E. E. E. E. E. E. E. SE. SE. SE. SE. SE. SE. SE. SE. E. E. E. E. SE. SE. SE. NW. xw. NE. sw. E. NE. sw. sw. Left Xuchek at 10 a. rn. Traveled all day. Started at 2.15 a. m. ; strong head wind and heavy sea; cold. Started at 2 a. in. : blowing a gale. Blowing a gale; remained in camp. Started at daylight; reached Copper River. Wind cold and cutting; some sleet. Do. Wind lighter and less cold. Wind light. Very cold and disagreeable. Strong wind; very cold. j Cold. P. m. quite warm. Traveled nearly all night. Reached Tar&l. Cold. Warm and pleasant. Cold. Night cold. Lunar halo, 2 p. m. Xicolai's house on Chitty stone River. Very little wind. Cold. Do. Wind light and not very cold. Solar halo, p. m. ; aurora during night. Light puffs of wind up and down river. Do. Warm and pleasant. Wind strong and cold. Reached Taral 4 p. m. ; saw blue violet in bloom. Barometer reads 29.50. Day warm; night cold. Appearance of mosquitoes; warm; and robins. 168 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. ABSTRACT OF JOURNAL WITH REDUCTIONS. Date. Hour. 1 a) I n s . 8 a P S3 1 ft ft Si pel Wind. Weather. Remarks. 1885. May 8 6a.m 29.15 44.5 40.5 34.5 68 E. Fair .... cum. st. 8 9p.m 29.05 49 43 34 56 ...do.... 4 cum. 9 5a.m 29.10 42 39 34 73 E. Lt. rain . Cold rain. 9 8.30 p.m.. 29. 17 51 45 37 59 E. Cloudy . 8 cum. and clear. 10 5a.m 29.22 58 52 46 64 E. Clear . . . 10 10 p.m.... 29.18 48 40 26 42 ...do.... 3 cum. 11 5a.m 29.20 38 31 17 41 ...do.... Cottonwood buds opening. 11 9 p.m 28.80 47 44 40 77 Fair 7 cum. st. 12 5 a.m 28.78 43 39 33 68 Clear . . . Day very hot. 12 10 p.m.... 28.62 53 46 37 55 Cloudy . 10 cir. cum. 13 6a.m 28.75 45 40 32 60 ...do.... 8cir. 13 9 p.m 28.69 48 41 30 50 Fair 5 cum. 14 4 a.m 28.69 49 44 37 63 E. Lt. rain. Rainbow a. m. ; strong wind. 14 6 p.m 28.60 51.5 46 39 62 E. Cloudy . 10 cum. st. 15 4 a. m 28.63 54 42 20 26 E. Fair 4 cum. 15 9.30 p.m.. 28.63 46 38 23 38 Clear . . . 16 4.30 a. m.. 28.70 49 40 24 36 ...do.... 16 10 p.m.... 28.63 48 38 18 29 ...do.... 2 cum. 17 6 a.m 28.58 45 38 25 45 E. Cloudy . 10 cum. st. 17 8 p.m 28.15 45 40 32 60 E. ...do .... Cold, strong wind. 18 5.15 a. m.. 28.13 46 40 30 53 ...do.... 10 st. ; cold wind. / 18 9.15 p.m.. 28.05 47.5 40 28 48 E. ...do.... 8 cum. st. 19 4.30 a.m.. 28.15 46 40.5 31 56 E. Fair .... 10 st. 19 6p.m 28.15 46 43 39 76 E. Lt. rain. 5 cum. 20 6 a.m 28.23 48 43 36 63 Clear . . . lOnim.; clouds high. 20 9.30 p.m.. 28.24 45 39 29 53 ...do .... 2 cum. 21 5 a.m ' 28.25 42 38 31 65 ...do.... 21 9 p.m 28.03 46 35 7 19 ...do.... Ice % inch thick in tin cup during night. 22 4 a.m 28.03 49 40 •24 37 SW. ...do.... No p. m. observation. 23 8 p.m 27.74 55 44 26 32 SW. Cloudy . 9 cum.; day fair; thunder, with little rain. 24 5 a.m 27.82 46 41 33 61 SW. Fair .... 5 cum. 24 10 p.m.... 27.65 49.5 44 36 60 SW. Clear . . . 25 5 a.m 27.70 41.5 39 35 75 w. Cloudy . Last part of a. m. fair. 25 9.30 p.m.. 27.60 46.5 45 40 79 ...do.... 10 St.; p. m. showery, with thunder. 26 6a.m 27.60 44 43 39 83 ...do.... Rained some during night. 26 9.30 p.m.. 27.65 46 41 33 60 ...do.... 10 cum. st. ; cold and showery. 27 6 a.m 27.65 43 39.5 34 71 ...do... 10 cum. st.: rained during night. 27 10p.m.... 27.58 43 39 33 68 ..do.... 10 st.; p. m. light rain. 28 5 a.m 27.78 43 38.5 31 63 Fair 4 cum. 28 9.30 p.m.. 27.94 41.5 38 32 70 w. Cloudy . 10 cum. st. ; day fair. 29 5 a.m 27.92 41 37 30 65 w. ...do.... 10 cum. st. 29 10 p.m.... 27.90 44 38 27 51 Fair 5 cum. ; cloudy nearly all day. 30 6 a.m 27.91 46 39 27 47 ...do.... 4 cir. cum. ; night cool. 30 10 p.m.... 27.88 46 38 37 35 w. Cloudy . Temp, water 43°, 9 cum. 31 5 a.m 27.88 53 46 37 55 Clear . . . Began to cloud up by noon. 31 Cloudy . Traveled till late at night. RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. ABSTRACT OF JOURNAL WITH REDUCTIONS— Continued. 169 Date. Hour. © S 1 pq 1 8a I s 3 . ©,d II 1 is © A 3 >> la Wind. Weather. Remarks. 1885. June 1 Lt. rain. Light rain all of a. m. 1 10 p.m.... 27.40 46 41 33 60 Cloudy . 8 cum. 2 6 a.m 27.40 44 40 34 68 ...do.... 10 cum. st. ; p. m. light rain. 3 8 p.m 27.10 49 45 40 71 SW. Lt. rain. 10 nim. ; rain very light. 4 6 a.m 27.12 49 41 28 < 44 Cloudy . 10 cum. st. ; strawberry blos- soms. 4 10 p.m.... 26.84 41 36 27 57 Clear . . . At the foot of Alaskan Mount- ains. 5 7a.m 26.84 49 41 28 44 ...do.... Began to cloud up early in a.m. 5 10.30 p.m. 26.53 36 27 8 30 ...do... Fair p.m.; flowers on mount- ains. 6 5 a.m 26.64 41 34 19 40 ...do.... Clear and warm. 6 10 p.m.... 26.90 48 39 22 35 ...do.... Do. 7 7 a.m 26.90 52 41.5 22 30 ... do Hot day ; traveled till 11 p. m. 8 9 a.m 26.50 50 39 17 27 ...do.... Traveled all night. 9 1 a.m Mountains. 10 58 56 54 87 Clear . . . Warm, moist atmosphere. ABSTRACT OF JOURNAL. Date. State of weather. Remarks. 1885. A.M. P. 31. Wind. June 11 12 dear ....do Fair and cloudy Clear NW. NW. NW. W. NW. W. W. w. w. SW. SW. w. Atmosphere warm and humid; hygrom- eter stolen. Verv- warm; vegetation very luxuriant. Very warm; natives appear consump- tive. Wind strong up river durin- p. m. Air smoky; large fires to the west. 13 .do ....do 14 . do Fair 15 ....do Clear 16 do Fair Warm; natives appear consumptive. Cooler; flies numerous. 17 Light rain 18 Cloudy ; light rain . . Fair Rained quite hard at tim?s. 19 Fair Continuous daylight. Rain very much heavier than in Copper River Valley. Ram ended about noon. 20 21 . . do Cloudy 22 Fair . Fair Wind generally up river. Day hot; light wind; few cu. clouds. Wind light; rained nearly all night. Day warm; mosquitoes numerous. Arrived at Nuklukyet. Hot; vegetation rank. Hot; horse-flies and mosquitoes very nu- merous. 23 Clear 24 Light rain; fair Cleir; fair Char Fair 25 26 ....do 27 28 Clear Clear 170 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA— ALLEN. ABSTRACT OF JOURNAL— Continued. Date. 1885. June 29 30 July 1 2 3 4 5 25 27 31 Aug. 1 State of weather. A. M. Clear .... . Fair ....do Clear Fair ...do ...do ...do Clear Fair Cloudy Fair Cloudy Clear Fair Clear , ...do ...do ...do Fair Cloudy ...do Light rain . , Clear Light rain . . ...do Cloudy Fair ...do Fair; hazy.. Foggy ...do Fair Cloudy ...do ...do Clear Cloudy Light rain . . Heavy rain. Cloudy Fair . . . Cloudy Heavy rain . . Fair Heavy rain . , Fair Cloudy; fair, Light rain . . . Cloudy P.M. Fair; showery Fair „ Showery Clear Fair ...do Showery ...do Fair . .do Cloudy; light rain Fair ...do ...do ...do Clear ...do ...do ...do Showery , Cloudy Light rain Fair Clear and hazy Light rain ...do Showery Fair ...do Clear Foggy ...do Fair Light rain Cloudy ...do Clear Cloudy Heavy rain ...do Cloudy Fair; cloudy. Light rain Heavy rain Cloudy Cloudy; showery Fair Cloudy ...do Light rain Wind. W. w. w. w. w. E. W. W. W. W. w. w. w. w. w. w. w. w. w. w. w. w. w. sw. sw. sw. sw. E. E. sw. w. w. w. w. w. w. Remarks. Hot; moose-fl'es thick. Hot; wind light; generally up river. Very warm. Almost no wind. Few cu. clouds all day. Do. Rainbow p. m. A. m. calm; p.m. wind light. Rainbow, 10 p. m. Strong wind blowing up the river. Cooler; small amount of rain. Pleasant; less hot. Cool. Mosquitoes a torture. Very warm. Hot. Hot; wind Jight. Hot. Very hot. Thunder and lightning all of p. m. Rain began at noon; continued p. m. No wind all day. Light wind. Do. Partly cloudy; clouds cu. Very warm; sand-flies a great pest. Wind strong; cold. Cool; sand- fles a torture. Wind blowing fresh. Rained a little during night. Reached the K6yukuk River. Nearly clear all day; warm and pleasant. Vegetation becoming less rank. Growing colder. Cold and disagreeable; wind light; K6- yukuk River rose 4 feet in 24 hours. Rained some during night. Rather cool; traveling nearly north ; turned back at noon. Cold; wind fresh. Heavy rain all day. Cold. Very cold; wind strong. Cold; wind blowing up river strong. Saw a star for first time this fall. Wind light. Natives on the river preparing for winter. RECONNAISSANCE IX ALASKA — ALLEN. ABSTRACT OF JOURNAL— Continued. 171 Date. | State of weather. Remarks. 1885. A. 31. P. M. Wind. W. Cloudy Fail* Rain light: da 3- warmest we have had for some time. Quite warm and pleasant. Light rain 21 do Cloudy W. j Reached Yukon. •» Fair W. Started for coast. Begin the trail to Unalaklik. Beautiful day ; traveling on tops of mountains. W. ! Light wind; very little rain. Cloudy 26 ' do ....do W. j P. m. late few drops of rain. SE. Reached coast. 27 Cloudy ....do os do SE. SE. S, Wind fresh and cold. ^9 do . Very little rain, but very cold. Cold: arrived at Fort Saint Michael's. 30 ....do Fair METEOROLOGICAL SUMMARY. Table I. Dates. BO - Number of days- liling di ■tion of d. During the march. >~ -i -' Remarks. From— Tc— ! Z ■- 5 ~ z - l ?. 1 ft 2^ fe .Pi | p-i Ntichek to Taral Mar. 20 Apr. 8 20 4 1 1* J E - '. Rain very heavy. Wind generally up and down river. Taral to up Chittystone and return. Apr. 9 May 4 26 11 12 3 7 | E. I 1 W. \ Taral to Alaskan Mountains May 5 June 4 31 12 9 10 8 E. Rain light. Crossing Alaskan Mountains June 5 June 9 5 4 1 Head Tanana River to Yukon River. June 10 June 26 ir 9 4 4 5 W. Rain heavy. At Nuklukyet, on the Yukon River . June 27 July 27 31 10 12 9 13 W. Showery, with thun- Nuklukyet to Koyukuk River July 28 Aug. 3 7 1 6 3 I w. 1 '1 SW. \ Dense fog. On Koyukuk River to Yukon River . Aug. 4 Aug. 21 18 5 13 w. Rain generally heav\ . Nnla-to to Fort Saint. Michael's Aug. 12 Aug. 30 9 1 2 6 1 1 SW. 1 j SE. 1 Crossing Coast 31" mains. Table II. — Condensed summary. Nuchek to Taral . Tardl to head of Tanana River. Mar. 20 Apr. B Apr. 9 June 9 ■,'<• 82 Head of Tanana River to Fort June 10 Aug. 30 82 Saint Michael's. a? 21 21 I SE. t E. W. \V. ( ' &st region: rain heavy Copper li. region; rain very li^riit : at- mosphere dry. Yukon K. region; rains: mostl] lia/y. 172 RECONNAISSANCE IN ALASKA — ALLEN. Table III. — Percentage of the number of days on which precipitation fell in the different regions during the expedition. Place. Coast region — Copper River region Yukon River region. Table IV.- -Comparative rainfall and relative humidity, 1884 * Place. Total annual precipitation. Mean annual humidity. Sitka «... - • Inches. 110.94 155.29 15.50 74.4 80.6 Fort Saint Michael's 88.4 53.9 * From meteorological records in the office of the Chief Signal Officer, Washington, D. C. t Mean of observations taken while the Alaskan Exploring Expedition was ascending the valley in 1885. Table V .—Observations taken at Nuklukyet.* h 6 . .a Jj Kind. i 3 I 2 1 Em p i "5 ft > 1-5 3 BO 3 £ 1 CO 0) o O a 1 1 © Max. temperature . . /Max. temperature.. Min. temperature. . . Min. temperature. . . 1882 79 60 52 36 30 1883 22 37 46 51 72 1882 +30 +23 —21 -30 52 1883 —43 —43 —37 —10 +42 * Compiled from records in the office of the Chief Signal Officer, Washington, D. C. The greatest degree of cold ever known in the Territory was 70° below zero, of Fahrenheit; but such cold is very rare.— D all. At Fort Yukon I have seen the thermometer at noon, not in the direct rays of the sun, standing at 112°, and I was informed by the commander of the post that several spirit thermometers, grad- uated up to 120°, had burst under the scorching sun of the Arctic midsummer.— Dall. Table VI. —Mean temperatures # Seasons. Saint Michael's, lat. 63° 28' N. Nul&to, lat. 64° 40' N. Fort Yukon, lat. 66° 34' N. +24.3 53 26 + 8 +23.9 60 +36 —14 +14.2 59.7 +17.4 —23.8 * Compiled from records in the office of the Chief Signal Officer, Washington, D. C. I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant, FRED W. FICKETT, B. S., Private Signal Corps U. S. A, Lieut. Ho T. Allen, Commanding Alaskan Expedition of 1885: fiW' ~p zL Li 7* / I OWING- TI^E EXtfL / 5QMMJ L EU/ J\ yw G. x ^ « greater part of tJie Coppjer > J.ana of I the party. Chart! No. 9E0, U.fSCoash a'r\3. Grco tp most of the YixjtoTi J^ive-r, rshicfi is from t \d the ZFrio.la.'kZih llt-iver, which. islf'Torn the f I I Zie-utj AUev,,JR AoT.jn.ta n t J G e-rr Aral's I 5 r. r 7,v| > -o c £ : z «.«**$»*$>***• r / : r *3k 1 8 - . * ^ rf - o^ V '*, ~ "i. s* ^ \ NX ^ - "*/. V* x°^ ." LIBRARY OF CONGRESS I III I III III II I 017 167 704 A