HISTORICAL HELICS OF THE iHl'J II A CONCISE AYHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE. JOHN H. SPAULDING. MT. WASHINGTON: PUBLISHED BY J, K. HITCHCOCK. • 3 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866, hj J. H. SPAULDING, I« the Clerk'8 Office of the District Court of the Diatrict of Massachusettt. T % WTSRSIDE, CAMBRIDGE: PKI>..„, bv u 0. HOU.HXON INTRODUCTION. There may be no locality combining more general interest for the pleasure-seeking tourist than the White Mountains. Here every season thousands come from different climes, on a pilgrimage, that they may pay most worshipful tribute in epirit-felt wonder, and songs of praise. My apology for attempting to originate and compile the following pages, is the belief that the curiosity of the travelling public requires a work embodying my design. The pencil of " Oakes " and the pen of "Beckett'' have nicely defined every explored locality, interestingly connected with the particular geography of these mountains ; besides which, the number of those may be called " legion " who have made fancied famous record for the world of their White Mountain impressions. These mountains are a fadeless pictured page in Nature's wonderful book, — or a gigantic monument of ruins formed by an overwhelming change, that widely disfigured the origi- nal geological formation of this wild region ; and as a massive rock-shadow in a strange land, is to a journey-sick pilgrim with a gushing cold-water spring by his feet, so my impres- eions of these famous ' ' old peaks ' ' now rise to my sight. An ambitious presence in fancy is with me now, with a voice saying, like a prophetic whisper from " Gheistland^''^ " Res- cue from the twilight of forgetfulness the Historical Relics 1* TI INTRODUCTION. OF THE White Mountains ! " The curious data of olden timca — the antiquities of this anciently named Agiochook, with the statistical facts of modern origin, necessary for a concise history of " these bald old heads of nature " — have never been tangibly combined. The trials and daring exploits of the fearless adventurers, who in other days filled the historic blank of this renowned locality, are rich with rarities for a work of interest to the reading world. Their life-relics have twined around them, by traditionary remembrance, pleasant associations of undecayable interest. We may for future visions gaze back from the cloud-capped crags into the valley of the past, and rescue from the oblivious mist of years the oral monuments, that, tinctured by the life-passion of times long gone, linger like visions of light upon the map of memory. Vanity is not the power that prompts me to desire success in this tiisk ; but as storm and time cover the names chiselled upon the top crag of Mount Washington with moss, so, with a round of years, " Old Mortality " should come, to brighten up the vestiges of the past, and catalogue new events with the re-chiselled. The antiquarian collections of interesting facts, found in the library of the Massachusetts Historical Society, having been open to my inquiry, my humble tribute of respect is due that society for the arrangement by which my research has been favored; and their assistiint librarian, John Appleton, M.D., is, for his politeness to me as a stranger, deserving my last- ing gratitude. The kindness of J. M. Rix, Esq., of Lancas- ter, in giving me free access to his library of choice books, is happily remembered. N. Noyes, Esq., of Boston, and B. F. Whidden, Esq., of Lancaster, have my sincere thanks for assisting me in obtaining the facts here registered, from the most authentic records. J. H. S. Lancaster^ June, 1855. PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION. In offering the third edition of the Historical Relics of the White Mountains, I have made an effort to meet in a satisfactory manner the ques- tions of tiie thousands who come here to while away a time in this favorite resort. I feel under a debt of gratitude to Professors Clark and Tuckerman, of Amherst College, for their politeness in furnishing me a complete list of all the plants natural to the Al- pine regions of the White Mountains. I confidently believe now this book contains more reliable informa- tion than any other book yet published in regard to the White Mountains ; and, in its present enlarged form, I trust its merits will be duly appreciated, and may it meet a generous reception from those who visit this justly popular place of resort ! THE AUTHOR. Mount Washington, August 13, 1858. TABLE or CONTENTS, PAOB Legendary Origin of White Mountains, 1 First Visit, in the Year 1631, r- 2 Origin of Name " Crystal Hills," 3 Darby Field's Visit, 1642, * Indian Veneration for Agiochook, * Geographical Situation, 8 Geological Features, 8 Minerals, 9 Scientific Measurements of the Mountainf, 12 Height of the White Mountains, 14 Perpetual Congelation, 14 Snow Arch and Bank, 1& Dining under Forty Feet of Snow, 15 Alpine Flowers, 'IS The Veteran Pilot, 18 First White-Mountain Guide, 18 First Hotel, 17 Indian Prophecy on " Giant's Grave," 17 The " White-Mountain Giant," 18 Place of his Birth, 18 Record of his Strength, 20 Carrying the Kettle and Deer, 20 Halter-Breaking the Mountam Buck, 20 The Giant lugging the Old Bear, • 20 Furst White-Mountain Bear-Show, 21 Catching the Wildcat with a Withe, 21 The Two Close Shots, 22 Ethan's Pond, 23 The Giant carrying a Lady, 23 The Men who named the Mountain, 23 First Night spent on Mount Washington, 24 Blue Pond and the Giant's Load, 24 First Mount-Washington Bridie-Path, 24 Location of that Old Path, 25 Ethan's Stone Cabin, 26 The OH Iron Chest and Boll of Lead, ^ 25 First Ladies on Mount Washington, > ... 25 First Horseback Bide, 20 White-Mountain Guides, S? traditioa of Silver and Gold, ••••.. «28 X CONTENTS. PlOB Tradition of Carbuncles, «...,.... 30 Carbuncle Hunters, 31 The Red Man's Curse, 31 The Indian Ghost, 31 Lost Spirits' Looking-Glass, 31 Rogers and his Rangers, 32 Silver Image, Wampum, and Money, 33 Rangers' Relics found, 36 Strange Sights seen, 38 The Old Fortune-Teller, 41 Search for Silver Image, etc., 42 The Old Brass Plate, 48 Discovery of the Notch, 49 The Hunters Nash and Sawyer, 49 Description of Notch, 49 Silver Cascade, 60 The Flume, 60 First Settler through the Notch, 51 The First Female, 51 " Granny Stalbird's " Rock, 62 Story of " Nancy's Rock and Brook," 62 First Goods brought up the Notch, 64 First Produ«e carried down, 66 First House in the Notch, 66 Avalanche of the Mountain, 66 Origin of Indian Fire-Worship, 67 Destruction of the Willey Family, 68 Names of the Family, • ... 69 Wonderful Escapes, . 69 Destruction of " Ethan's Cabin," . , 60 Origin of Peabody River, 60 Darby Field's Second Visit, ,61 Death of the English Baronet, 62 Death-Leap of the Moose and Dog, 64 Indian Exile Pealsucep, 64 Silver-Mine found, 68 White-Mountain Hermit, 68 The Stolen White Girl, 69 White-Mountain Hotels, 71 Dwelling-Place in the Clouds, 72 Nazro's Temple Vision, , , 72 Summit House, Mount Washington, 74 Tip-Top House, Mount Washington, , 74 Mount- Washington Carriage-Road, 76 CONTENTS. XI PAGS White-Mountain Objects of Interest, 78 The Crystal Cascade, '° The Hermit's Lake, '^ Fall of a Thousand Streams, °^ Tuckerman's Ravine, ^^ Glen Elise Falls, °; Lake of the Clouds and Star Lake, ^| " Gulf of Mexico," °^ Bones in the '* Burnt District," °^ The " Devil's Den," °^ Bearing and Distances of White Mountains, ... • • • ' • ^'^ Height, Bearing, and Distances of other Mountains from Mt. Wash- ^^ ington, jjc Franconia and its Attractions °^ The " Old Man of the Mountain," »o The Pool, °; The Flume, °' The Basin, gi The Cascade •, I' Mount Lafayette, or the " Great Haystack," ^l Eagle Mountain, ^ • *,,* ' ^ V-' / «a Length of Davs at the Summit of Mount Washington, . . . . oo Thunder-Storins, °J White Mountain Names, from old Records, o» ^^^_^^^^^^^ _ ^ _ !!!!!! 93 AtpinePlants of the White Mountains, . ' 9^ Remarkable Feats in White Mountain Life, ^' Height of the different Hotels above the Sea, »» Freight of Building Materials, &c., to Tip-Top, «« Lizzie Bourne's Death, ^ Adventure of Dr. Ball, \^^ Fate of Benjamin Chandler, ■["* Routes and Distances to the Mountains, ... . • • iw Mount Washington Observatory Railroad to the top of Mount Washington, HISTORICAL RELICS OP THE WHITE MOUNTAINS LEGENDARY ORIGIN OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. Cold storms were in the northern wilderness, and a lone red hunter wandered without food, chilled by the frozen wind. He lost his strength, and could find no game; and the dark cloud that covered his life-path made him weary of wandering. He fell down upon the snow, and a dream carried him to a wide, happy valley, filled with musical streams, where singing birds and game were plenty. His spirit cried aloud for joy; and the " Great Master of Life " waked him from his sleep, gave him a dry coal and a flint-pointed spear, telling him that by the shore of the lake he might live, and find fish with his spear, and fire from his dry coal. One night, when he had laid down his coal, and seen a warm fire spring up therefrom, with a blinding smoke, a loud voice came out of the flame, and a great noise, like thunder, filled the 2 HISTOEICAL RELICS OF air ; and there rose up a vast pile of broken rocks. Out of the cloud resting upon the top came numerous streams, dancing down, foaming cold ; and the voice spake to the astonished red hunter, saying, *' Here the Great Spirit will dwells and watch over his favorite chUdren,^^ — Old Legend. FIRST VISIT, IN 1631. Dr. Belknap, the learned historian of New Hampshire, gives Walter Neal the credit of being the first explorer of these mountains, as early as the year 1632. Merrill's N. H. Gazetteer of 1817 concludes, from the best authorities, that Robert Neal, Walter Neal and others, visited these mountains as early as the year 1631. Josselyn, in his ^QW England Rarities, gives the following description, which, with little variation, is found also in Belknap, as an extract from Hubbard's MS. History, credited to Walter Neal : " Four score miles (upon a direct line) to the N. W. of Scarboro' a ridge of mountains runs N. W. and N. E. an hundred leagues, known by the name of White Hills, upon which lieth snow all the year, and is a landmark twenty miles ofif at sea. It is a rising ground from the sea-shore to these hills, and they are inaccessible but by the gulleys which the dissolved snow hath made. In these gulleys grow savin bushes, which, being taken hold of, are a good THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. • help to the climbing discoverer. Upon the top of the highest of these mountains is a large level, or plain, of a day's journey over, whereon nothing grows but moss. At the further end of this plain is another hill, called the ^Sugarloaf,'' to outward appearance a rude heap of mass- ive stones, piled one upon another ; and you may, as you ascend, step from one stone to another, as if you were going up a pair of stairs, but winding still about the hill, till you come to the top, which will require half a day's time, and yet it is not above a mile, where there is also a level of about an acre of ground, with a pond of clear water in the midst of it, which you may hear run down; but how it ascends is a mystery. From this rocky hill you may see the whole country around about. It is far above the lower clouds, and from hence we beheld vapor (like a great pillar) drawn up by the sunbeams out of a great lake, or pond, into the air, where it was formed into a cloud. The country beyond these hills, northward, is daunting terrible, being full of rocky hills, as thick as mole-hills in a meadow, and clothed with infinite thick woods."* — N. E. Rarities, 3-4. * Another writer, after giving a similar description, adds, "We had great expectation of finding precious stones on these moun- tains ;" and something resembling crystals being picked up, waa Buflficient to give them the name of " Crystal Hills." They wert long called by that name. — Authob. 2 « HISTORICAL RELICS OF DARBY FIELD'S VISIT, IN 1642. Juru 4th, 1642. — " Darby Field " (says Winthrop, in his Journal), "an Irishman, living about Piscat, being accompanied with two Indians, went to the top of the White Hill. He made his journey in eighteen days. His relation, at his return, was, that it was about 160 miles from Saco ; that after 40 miles travel he did, for the most part, ascend ; and within 12 miles of the top was neither tree nor grass, but low savins, which they went upon the top of, sometimes ; but a continual ascent upon rocks, on a ridge, between two valleys, filled with snow, out of which came two branches of the Saco river, which met at the foot of the hill, where was an Indian town, of some 200 people. Some of them accompanied him within 8 miles of the top, but durst go no further, telling him that no Indian ever dared to go higher, and that he would die if he went. So they staid there till his return, and his two Indians took courage by his example, and went with him. They went divers times through thick clouds, for a good space J and within 4 miles of the top they had no clouds, but very cold. By the way among the rocks there was two ponds : one a blackish water, and the other reddish. The top of all was plain, about 60 ft. square. On the north side was such a precipice as they could scarcely dis- cern the bottom. They had neither cloud nor wind on THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. d the top, and moderate heat. All the country about him seemed a level, except here and there a hill rising above the rest, and far beneath them. He saw, to the north, a great water, which he judged to be 100 miles broad, but could see no land beyond it. The sea by Saco seemed as if it had been within 20 miles. He saw, also, a sea to the eastward, which he judged to be the gulf of Canada. He saw some great waters in parts to the westward, which he judged to be the great lake Canada river (St. Lawrence) came out of. He found there much Muscovy glass ; they could rive out pieces 40 ft. long, and 7 or S broad. When he came back to the Indians, he found them drying themselves by the fire ; for they had a great tempest of wind and rain. About a month after, he went again, with five or six of his company. Then they had some wind on the top, and some clouds above them, which hid the sun. They brought some stones, which they supposed had been diamonds; but they were most crystal."* — Winthrop's Journal, p. 247. INDIAN VENERATION FOR AGIOCHOOK. According to antiquarian research, the aboriginal name of the White Mountains was "Agiochook;" spelt, also, Agio- • We may reasonably conclude that Darby Field's trail was up the ridge between Tuckerman's Ravine and the valley of Dry Eiver. — Authob. 6 HISTORICAL RELICS OF cochook, Agicoochooke, Agriochooke; signifying, by ancient Indian nomenclature, " Mountain of the Snowy Forehead^ mid Home of the Great Spirit:' Schoolcraft, in his " Indian Wigwam," page 248, gives, as the Algonquin pronuncia- tion of these mountains, " Waubik," or " Waumbick ;" mQ2,nmg ''White Rocky Becket, in his "Guide," calls them, from ancient authority, " Waumbeket Methna," sig- nifying mountains of the " S?iowy Foreheads.'^ The lore of legend, the voice of tradition, and the record of history, point to these mountains as a locality of great interest. In olden times, from far and near have come the brave and fair red children of the wilderness, to offer, in wild, shadowy glens, their sacrifices of vengeance and love ; and where their songs rose, with the echoes of thundering waterfalls, to mingle with the roaring wind of the tempest cloud, upon the snow-crowned rock, there they rever- ently believed the Great Spirit listened with satisfaction to their tributes of esteem. When the first white man came here, to climb to the top of this bald mountain, an old Indian, with his tomahawk of stone, flint-pointed ar- row, and tanned war-dress, from the skins of moose and bear, standing proudly erect, shook his head, and said, " The Great Spirit dwells there ; he covers steps above the green leaves with the darkness of the fire tempest. No foot-marks are seen returning from his home in the clouds." The explorer's thirst for daring adventure overruled the THE WHITE MCHTNTAINS. 7 fear created by the Indians' superstition ; and, after learn- ing that the Great Spirit sent a high wind, in a thick mist, and caught up to the top of Agiochook a single sanop and his squaw, that the wilderness and all the mountains except this, might be covered for two suns with water, and that they might then return as the only mortals who should ever come down the " "White Rock " from his dwelling place, he went to the top, and safely returned. All old authentic records agree, that the aborigines unitedly had a peculiar superstitious veneration for these mountains. They considered them the dwelling-place of the invisible One, who, with a motion of his hand, could raise a storm ; and accordingly they deemed it pardonless sacrilege to ascend them. Traditions teach us that a few have been found so daring (in the long history of the Indians) as to press, with their moccasined feet the moss that grows above the region of scrub vegetation ; and such have been doomed to wander forever invisibly among wild gorges, with no resting-place save the damp, cold caverns in the rocks, and no hope of ever reaching the ^^ happy land,'" beyond the setting sun. To this day, those are to be found who credulously believe that the strange noises often heard among the shadowy cliffs (instead of giving credit to wolves and wild-cats) proceed from lost spirits, that miser- ably exist here in hopeless torment, perpetually bewailing their fate. 2* ?) HISTORICAL EELICS OF GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION OF WHITE MOUNTAINS^ These mountains are situated in the State of New Hampshire, and County of Coos. Their latitude is 44® 16' 34|'' north, and longitude 71° 20' west. Since their discovery by the early voyagers along the wild coast of New England, they have ever been regarded with won- der and admiration. Deep, shadowy gorges, where the everlasting waterfall lives among massy crags, with its endless thunder-song; the yawning chasms, filled with snow, and romantic, flowery glens, shaded by a gnarled growth of old forest-trees, combined with an area of fifty thousand three hundred and forty-one acres of shattered rocks, piled high up to the clouds, in the wildest disorder imaginable, form the remarkable outline of this famous locality. No wonder that the rude, nature-tanned son of the wilderness, as he gazed upon this gigantic pile of rocks, standing up from its original bed six thousand two hundred and eighty-five feet into the clouds, was filled with super- stitious veneration ; for here, in all coming time, the en- lightened sons of science may pay willing homage, where the Great Spirit dwelt in storms, and gave the thunder his voice, and the lightning the flash of his anger ! GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. According to the report of the geological surveyor of the State of New Hampshire, Dr. C. T. Jackson, the feat- THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 9 upes of these mountains, geologically considered, possess little peculiar interest. The rocks in places consist of a coarse variety of mica slate, passing into gneiss, and con- taining a few crystals of black tourmaline, and quartz. The cone of Mount Washington and its summit are covered with myriads of angular and flat blocks, and slabs of mica Blate, piled in confusion one upon another. These are identical iu nature with the rocks in place, and leave no marks of transportation or abrasion by the action of water. The nucleus of these mountains is granite rock, and the mica slate found on the top of the difierent peaks is but a superficial crust ; and it is observable that the sedimentary deposit, and gi'anite, has been disturbed by upheavals, which, with the action of a comparatively moderate heat for ages has doubled back and twisted and broken these large sheets of mica slate, and left the fragments exposed in the wildest confusion, for mortal wonder. MINERALS. Various local traditions are in existence to prove the adventurous belief of many, that yet, in some unexplored or enchantment-guarded places, are mines of wealth of immense value. These tend to tantalize the imagination of many; with how much probability for future real- ization is not my province to decide. In this book will be found certain of these traditions, which, in their proper 10 HISTORICAL RELICS OF places are deemed worthy of record, for the gratification of public curiosity. The minerals yet obtained among these mountains are not satisfactory to the spirit of discovery. Southerly from the top of Mount Washington is found a vein of quartz, containing crystals of fluor-spar of an apple-green color, and crystallized in its primary form. This attracts the attention of collectors of minerals, and is worthy of notice as a curiosity. A few quartz crystals, in the form of six-sided prisms, also occur at the same place. Near the location of these crystals has been found, lately, a new bed of black tourmaline, which has furnished some finely-shaped crystals. These specimens are found in large masses of milk-quartz, near the route to the summit of the mountain, from the old Crawford or Davis path. On a branch of Dry river, have been found some remarkably large and transparent specimens of quartz crystallization, and much search has been made there for a bed of dia- monds that are of a rare quality. An old hunter (San- born) is now living, who faithfully affirms that, many years ago, while fishing, up a small branch of Dry river, under the eastern side of Mount Pleasant, he came to a place where the water ran between two high white rocks so covered with perfect diamonds that it was blinding to his eyes to look upon the same. He succeeded in break- ing off three with his fish-pole, which he sold for five dol- THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 11 lare each, at Old Abel Crawford's. Several exploring parties have been in search of this treasure ; and as lately as 1853 the same old gray-headed hunter who made the discovery, went with two other treasure-seekers, arme ously surrounded by a fanciful setting of evergreen ver- dure^ stood the wigwam of a young hunter. His name was Pealsucep, and a pretty young squaw was the light of his rude home. They were happy together, for the Great Spirit had smiled upon their love, and given them- a son, a bright-eyed little boy, who filled the hearts of his parents with unclouded hope. When he walked upon the lake shore, and picked curious stones, and danced merrily among the wild-flowers, it showed the fulness of his youthful joy to their hearts, and they were happy. One day, when the hunter was away to the chase on the hills, a pale-faced stranger came to his cabin, treated his squaw rudely, and in pretended sport gave his boy a toss out into the lake to see him swim ashorQ. The little fellow struggled manfully, and regained the shore amid the shouts of the pale-faced sailor, who then offered the squaw drink from a bottle, and departed. Pealsucep returned, and the little lad soon after grew sick, and, linger- ing three days, died. The squaw told the story of the pale-face, to which the hunter listened silently, with down- cast look. He went often to the grave of his little boy, and made fit offering there, that his journey might be swift and bright beyond the sunset. But from this time there was a black cloud upon the path of Pealsucep ; the cruel fire of jealousy was kindled with undying rage in the deep feelings of his spirit, and in vain did his guiltleM 66 HISTORICAL RELICS OP squaw declare her innocence. Like a tender flower that nestles for protection against wind and storms in the shade of some defiant mountain pine, she felt her support was gone ; a blight came over her hopes, and she died. Silently and tearfully Pealsucep laid her by the side of her little boy. Two moons passed away ; his tribe became indignant, called a council, and the gray-headed old chief sent for Pealsucep, and said : " You have sent your squaw away before the Great Spirit called her. You are a swift hunter and brave ; but never make a foot-mark among the hunters of your tribe after to-morrow's sun, unless you take the cripple that lives by the river for your squaw." Pealsucep looked upon the cripple, shook his head, and ere sunset had gathered a pile of pine-knots near his cabin door. When darkness that night came down upon the lone wilderness, he kindled his knot-pile, and by its light laid upon it the bodies of his squaw and son, and, leaving them there to consume, bounded away to the gloom of the thick woods, filling the night with fearful shrieks of anguish. With the morning light he returned. His hunting-dress was in tatters, his hair strangely tangled, and, silently gathering the ashes of those he once loved int« a rude bark-box, up towards the mountain he turned his lone steps, and made for himself a new path in the wilderness. Tradition says that upon a foaming stream, in the shadow of the ** Great Spirit's " home, the ashes of that squa\i THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 67 and her boy now repose, with a rude stone pile to mark the spot. What of Pealsucep ? He made a vow ; and, if tradition be true, the Great Spirit heard it. He dared His displeasure ; and, high up among the clouds, breathed a promise to the Invisible Injluence of storms ; and most faithfully a whisper came to his spirit. Deathless hate and untiring revenge against his tribe and the pale-faces were the burden of his wishes. For years he appeared to be the incarnate embodiment of a destroying genius, that walked in the wind, and silently speeded the arrow of death on its fatal mission, till his tribe dwindled away, and the pale-faces abandoned their settlement at the mouth of the Kennebec. By tradition he was instrumental in destroying the war-party at Lewiston Falls, by a false light, set, as they supposed, by their runners who went forward to prepare camping-ground. This light, instead of being set at the head of the falls, was set down below ; and, coming down the river after dark, taking the light as guide for turning their canoes ashore, all went down, and perished. At a certain block-house he shot several senti- nels, and at last was himself wounded, by the stratagem of a sentry at that post. He this time crawled away to the river bank, floated across, and, filling his wound with moss, lived for a long time on beech-leaves and roots, and. recovered. He took several prisoners, for which he re- ceived of the Jesuits a bounty ; and among others there was 7* 05 HISTORICAL RELICS OF a little girl by the name of Mary Crager, whose fate adds a curious page to this list of mountain relics. This Indian, according to tradition, once found, while climbing a spur of these mountains, a quantity o^Jine silver ore. He was scrambling up a steep ledge, where, to facilitate his ascent, he took hold of a bush that came up by the roots, revealing to his wondering gaze hanging pieces of ore that appeared to have oozed out in its richness from the crevices of the cliflF. This Indian in 1779 was very old and feeble ; his great age made him quite harmless, and he lived in a shadow of the Great Spirit's home; and there his bones now moulder, by a rushing mountain stream, that sings an endless song for three — the little Indian boy, his mother, and old Pealsucep, the exile. WHITE-MOUNTAIN HERMIT. Thomas Crager was the first white man who ever dwelt near the White Mountains. He lived at a time so unfor- tunate that law supposed if a person could not swim, when arrested, they could send their spirit into the body of some neighbor's cat^ and walk the night doing mischief. Ac- cordingly his wife was executed as a witch ; and this sad event bowed his spirit low in the shadow of grief. But one little ray of hope beamed through the night of his ■oul ; this was his love for his motherless little girl. One evening, when a number of little children were at plaj THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 69 near a wood, suddenly the cry arose that an Indian had carried off little Mary Crager. Nerved by the spirit of desperation, the last tie binding this unfortunate man to civilized life was now severed; and, equipped for the chase, he shaped his course for the unpathed wilderness. Near the White Mountains he came to an Indian village, but, failing to find the object of his search there, he took advantage of the native superstition existing among the red hunters of that wild region, and went up to dwell among the rocks, where, undisturbed, he for a long time lived, to savage fancy, as an adopted son of the Great Spirit. Unannoyed by savage neighbors, fish were plenty, abundance of game lived on every wooded steep and shady glen, and in his habitation of solitude he was lord of the realm he trod. The crystal waters and pure air of the mountains gave him health and strength ; and as years rolled away, void of the exciting passions of busy life, he grew old slowly, for a glimmering hope yet bound him to earth. In his intercourse with his red neighbors, he was .respected on account of his home, being, like an eagle's, perched among the rolling clouds ; and, having learned that a little pale flower had long been in the possession of a gray-headed old Indian, who made his dwelling-place alone, distant from his tribe, he sought for him, and found what strengthened his fears. He found, in the possession of this Indian, a piece of what he knew to be the dress of 70 HISTORICAL RELICS OF his little girl, the evening she was stolen away. The Indian was now very old and feeble, and, raising his trembling hand when Crager came into his presence, the flash of vengeance rekindled his dim eyes, and it was a long time ere he could so calm his fears as to gain from him in broken English the sought-for information. In the end he learned from the Indian, by promising to instruct him in the use of a gun, that the child he sought was sold to the Jesuits, on a big river towards the sunrise, and that now she was a tall woman, if living. It is su£&cient for the purpose of these pages* that, after a series of curious adventures, Crager succeeded in finding his daughter, among the eastern Indians of the Abnakis tribe, married, and living like a native squaw. He found also in the possession of old Pealsucep specimens of silver, and learned from him the tradition referred to in our notice of the exile ; and, by making a solemn promise to bury his remains, when dead, by the side of his squaw and boy, he received a rude description of the locality of that mine. But to this day the world, perchance, is no richer, save in fancy, for the tin, and lead, and silver, with which these mountains abound. Perchance more silver may some day be made by working the tin veins of Jackson, and the lead * In a forthcoming edition of The Indian Traditions an© Legends of Agiochook, this tradition and its details will appear, perchance. — Author. THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 71 mines of Shelborne, than can be realized by magic appli- cation for hidden treasures and silver mines, WHITI^-MOUNTAIN HOTELS. The world-wide reputation of these mountains, gained since they were first called " Chrystal Hills" in 1631, yearly calls to their airy heights and shaded sylvan retreats thousands from all parts of the world, that in this moun- tain land they may for a season shake off the perplexities of business life, and freely receive the invigorating influ- ence of health and comfort. For the accommodation of these numerous visitors, mammoth hotels have been erected in the most attractive localities ; and, being man- aged on the most approved city style, the " Alpine House," at Gorham Station " Thompson's, Glen House" "Gibbs' Notch House,'' and ''The Wkite-Mou?itain Hotise,'' give satisfactory evidence of their deserved popu- larity by the liberal patronage seasonably bestowed upon each. Within a pleasant drive of the base of these mountains are delightful villages (Conway, on the Saco ; Gorham, on the Androscoggin ; Lancaster, on the Connect- icut, and Whitefield, near the Amonoosuc), where the free circulation of fresh mountain air, and pure water, foaming cold from icy indentations among snowy cliffs, afford to all who come and tarry a pleasant and healthful 72 HISTORICAL RELICS OP contrast to the sickly, pent-up city street, where floats • hot atmosphere of pestilence and death. DWELLING-PLACE IN THE CLOUDS. The possibility of erecting a permanent summer home for man on the top crag of Mount Washington, was for a long time looked upon with serious doubt, and con- sidered only a fit subject of speculation for the visionary. The rude stone cabin, in our reference to " The White- Mountain Giant,'' being the first shelter wherein mortals could on this bleak pile of rocks find an artificial resting- place, was ever by the winter storms rendered a most desolate object, though sheltered behind a bold crag. The shingle roof, split down in the woods on the mountain side and packed up on the backs of men, was scattered to the four winds. The levers of the frost, and the wild hurricane, tumbled down the thick stone walls ; and every spring a roofless heap of ruins, with a rusty old stove, and the iron chest, was left to tell a sad story of the invisible power that over these towering summits stretches the arm of destruction. NAZRO'S TEMPLE VISION. A peculiar genius, in 1850, obtained a supposed free- toil title to the top of Mount Washington, with all th« privileges and appurtenances to the same belon£;ing ; and THE WHITE MOXJNTAINS. 73 erecting gateways upon all the bridle-paths leading up to " the peaks in the clouds,'^ exacted one dollar as toll-fee from each and every person who ascended. He also published a flaming proclamation in the papers of the day, of which this is a true copy : PROCLAMATION. FOURTH OF JULY ON THE WHITE MOUNTAINS There will be a solemn congregation upon TRINITY HEIGHT, or Summit of Mount Washington, on the Fourth Day of July, a. d. 1851, and 1st year of the Theocracy, or Jewish Christianity, to dedicate to the coming of the Ancient of Days, in the glory of His King- dom, and to the marriage of the Lamb ; and the literal organization in this generation of the Christian or purple and royal Democracy (let no man profane that name !), or the thousand thousands, and ten thousand times ten thousand of the people of the Saints of the most high God of every nation and Denomination into the great- ness of God's kingdom and dominion under the whole heavens ; and there will be a contribution for this purpose from all who are willing, in the beauty of holiness, from the dawn of that day. JOHN COFFIN NAZRO, Jsrad of Jerusalem, 74 HISTORICAL REMCS OF The appointed fourth of July was as dark and rainj as any, perhaps, that ever shrouded Mount Washington in wildly-flying clouds; and Nazro, meeting with strong opposition in toll-gathering, relinquished his temple-build- ing designs, and, throwing away his gate-keys to the en- trance of this mighty altar, retired to United States ser- vice, where, perchance, he may be now plotting the way to fortune among the clouds. SUMMIT HOUSE ON MOUNT WASHINGTON The matter-of-fact enterprise of two thorough-going Yankees, J. S. Hall and L. M. Rosebrook, came to the task in 1852, and the above-named house was erected within a few feet of the highest rock of Mount Washing- ton. (See right-hand house in cut on first page.) This structure is of heavy stones, blasted with powder from the mighty paramid on which it stands ; and it is twenty- four feet by sixty-four feet, firmly secured to its everlast- ing foundation by cement, heavy iron bolts ; and over the roof are tightened four strong cables. In opposition to the prophecies of the unbelieving, this house stood the storms of winter; and the next summer another house was stone-built, and called the TIP-TOP HOUSE. This house was erected by Samuel F Spaulding & Co^ THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 7$' and cement and iron rods hold this monument of daring enterprise, in proud defiance of wind and storm, to the most bleak top crag of Mount Washington. This house is twenty-eight feet wide by eighty-four feet long ; and has a deck-roof, whereon the visitor may stand and look down six thousand two hundred and eighty-five feet, on to the vast map spread on every side at his feet. (On the first page of this book this house is seen in the engraving, with a telescope, and three visitors on its roof, under a flag of our country.) These two houses are unitedly managed by a company of hardy mountaineers, who spare no pains to make this famous resort a true home to the admiring stranger, and a pleasant resting-place to the travel-worn pilgrim. All who seek health and pleasure in this pure mountain cli- mate, or a gratification of curiosity for the wonderful in sublime scenery, will find here ample accommodations for their comfort, both day and night. The changing scenes and reflections connected with every sunset and sunrise, enjoyed from this elevation, are remarkable beyond descrip- tion. Here too sunlight plays upon the bald rocks, while black storms, armed with wind and thunder, move like the shadows of destroying giants in the habitated regions below. Here the moon, with its starry host, sends down its solemn light upon the gray crags, kindling into a fiery glow a hundred lakes, ponds, rivers, and dashing moun- 8 76 HISTORICAL RELICS OP tain streams, and strangely enlivening every shady glen with flitting lights and shades for the sombre world. Never did Seer from the land of the pyramids, or Chaldean star- gazer, study the heavens from an observatory like this. Ye who would enjoy the sports of stream and forest, come to these mountains ! Ye who delight to behold the works of nature in their most sublime flights, come to these mountains ' Ye who have a love for novelty and a desire for true pleasure, come and behold God's wisdom dis- played in the bold outlines of this gigantic monument of his almighty power ! Here the undying features of grand- eur were moulded in imperishable materials by his hand ! MOUNT WASHINGTON CARRIAGE-ROAD. A company, known as the Mount Washington Carriage- Road Company, was chartered in June, 1853, by the Legis- lature of New Hampshire, with a capital-stock of fifty vhousand dollars. The first day of September, 1853, this company was organized at the Alpine House, Gorhara, and the following board of directors was chosen : D. 0. Macomber, of New York ; John M. Woods, R. J. Robin- son, and Abner Lowell, of Portland ; J. R. Hitchcock and James Dingly, of Gorham; and Barker Burbank, of Shelborne. D. 0. Macomber was chosen president ; J R, Lufkin, secretary. This road is to be sixteen feet wide, macadamized, and have a protection-wall, three TME WHITE MOUNTAINS. 77 feet high in dangerous places. A route has been thor- oughly surveyed and located, with no greater rise than that of one foot to eight, to the top of Mount Washington, from Thompson's Glen House. The distance by this road varies but little from eight miles, and it is now — June, 1855 — in rapid progress towards completion, under the contract of Messrs. Rich & Myers. When, a carriage can run to the top of Mount Washington, who can prophesy what a bright new era will dawn upon White-Mountain life ? The plan of this road reflects great credit upon the enterprise of the president, D. 0. Macomber. The part now located is so calculated as to bring in plain prospect the most varied and wild scenery of the eastern side ; and a survey is this season anticipated, by which the road will be located somewhere down the western side ; thus com- pleting a carriage-fbute that for novelty, and unparalleled wonder-exciting location, will not in the western world have an equal. 78 THE tourist's guide to the WHITE MOUNTAINS. OBJECTS OF INTEREST. On the eastern side, as the traveller apptoaches this Alpine region, he will naturally inquire for the objects of interest to ■which he wishes to direct his attention. After booking his name for a ride to the summit in the morning, from the Glen House he will pass down southerly along the public road, that connects the east- ern and western travel around these mountains. Ro- mantic scenery in its* most primitive form everywhere greets attention. A dark old forest rock, crumbled from frowning crags ; unpathed recesses, alone haunted by wild beasts; and deep, wild gorges filled with the thunder-rush of wasteless mountain streams, — pass like dream-changes before the admirer's vision ; and about three miles from the Glen brings us to THE CRYSTAL CASCADE. This is situated on the right hand, in a dark ravine about a hundre.d rods from the road, and the whole height of the falls is nearly a hundred feet. This fall is broken in its -course by projecting rocks, which, scatter the water-drops in showers of spray, like liquid silver, upon the surrounding foliage. Over other indentations of the cliff the water courses down green ■WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 79 beds of moss, among stunted trees that struggle for existence in the scanty soil of the fissures and seams of splintered crags. This stream is a tributary sent down froni the wild gorges on the southerly side of Mt. Washington. Should the adventurous tourist choose this route to the summit, he may find the way rugged and wild; but the change of scenery along the highly romantic gorge will well repay the extra tax upon time and nerve. In one place the HERMIT'S LAKE, set like a rich gem in its fanciful frame-work of changeless evergreen, appears ; and, stopping to en- joy the prospect, the idea of overwhelming wonder rushes upon our spirit in this solitary spot. Across this little lake, high up among the rolling clouds, frowns Mt. Washington, a view of which from this point strangely contrasts with the sparkling rush of noisy water, and the evergreen freshness of surround- ing woods. To the westward rises the craggy top of Mt. Monroe ; and upon all sides, except the outlet through this little lake, known as The Crystal Stream^ appear high towering cliffs, rendered a picture of deso- lation by the deep, wide track of many an avalanche. Little spots of verdure, blasted shrubbery, and piles of granite fragment appear below, with the long snow- 80 THE tourist's GUIDE TO THE bank and famous snow-arch,* through which runs the stream that tumbles from the ragged cUfF above. Over all, mark the mighty pile of mountains that hangs high in bold relief against the sky, and behold the famous **FALL OF A THOUSAND STREAMS," divided in its descent into silvery streams that in number will warrant the above appellation, and you have a picture of the Mountain Coliseum here faintly referred to; and this also is known as Tuckerman^s Ravine. Glen Elise Falls are situated a mile below Crystal Cascade, and considered an object of quite as much interest as that of its rival. It is on the left side of ihe road, a few rods off, in a deep, dark ravine on Elise River. The water falls in an unbroken sheet about eighty feet. On top of the crag from which this stream is projected, stands a finely rooted old hemlock, that, in defiance to the warring elements, stretchef Hs shaggy top out a hundred feet above the top of the fall. Up this tree a boy once climbed to the very top, in i\\Q presence of a party of visitors, and looking down into its fearful vortex of boiling water, nearly two hundred feet, seemed perfectly indif- * See description of snaw-arch, 15th page. WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 81 ferent concerning his dangerous position. Descending, he was rewarded for this dare-devil feat by an admir- ing stranger with a York shilling. " The Lake of the Clouds,'' and " Star Lake" set like glittering diamonds in rough granite frames, on the indentation between the tops of Mt. Washington and Mt. Monroe, will well repay the excursionist for a visit to their romantic shores, dis- tant from Tip-Top a mile and a half. " The Gulf of Mexico " and " Spaulding's Lake,'' are at least worth a trip from the Atlantic, from all who would look with proud satisfaction upon Nature in her sublimest mood. These curiosities are situated near the head of the most northerly branch of Peabody River, between Mt. Wash- ington and Mt. Clay, and are similar in feature to the general outlines of Tuckerman's Ravine. In place, how- ever, of seeing another " Fall of a Thousand Streams," the tourist must be content with loosing from the over- hanging cHff vast boulders, that, smoking and thunder- ing down deep in the gorge below, are splintered and lost amid the ruins of trees shattered on their down- ward trail. This little lake, known in its wild bed as " Spaulding's Lake,'' to appearance was formed by a slide from Mt. Washington; and very recently another slide from the southerly crags of Mt. Adams, has left its rusty, iron track, and piled its ruins in wild con- fusion, high up within the waters of this lake. On this 6 82 THE tourist's guide to the pile, as an apology for the name given this solitary sheet, may be seen engraved, "J. H. S., 1853." Many places of interest are yet, around this gigantic pile of peaks, but partially explored. The field is open to the spirit of discovery; and, beside the piles of old bones found last season in the " burnt district," by Mr. Hall, places worthy of note, and more relics interesting to the antiquarian, will doubtless yearly be brought to light, till these cliffs and gorges, from being an '•^unknown cer- tainty^^ become, like a book, thoroughly understood and admired. On the westerly side of these mountains, the chief objects of interest are the Notch (already referred to on 49th page), the Upper and Lower Falls of the Amo- nosoc, Mt. Willard, and the carriage-ride to its summit. The wilderness valley stretched over thousands of acres, with the old site of the Fabyan stand, open in the wilderness, for the traveller's relief, like a desert oasis. Here stand upon the " Giant's Grave " (that famed spot), where, according to legend, sleeps one of the race which lived in the time of the Saurians and Mastodons ! Here lift up your voice, discharge the shadow of Ethan's can- non, once kept there, blow a tin horn, or fire a pistol, — then listen to the vibration of echo, sounding among a hundred peaks ! Ere you bid farewell to the scenery from this mound, behold the westerly declivities of the WHITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 83 Titanic brotherhood of craggy White-Mountain summits, stretching along the southern sky, with their dark fissures, silvery waterfalls flashing in the sunlight, and deep wide tracks, that silently tell where the destroying avalanche has been. Around these Inountains are un- numbered streams that afford abundant sport for the trout-catcher. ^'The DeviVs Den," up the side of Mt. Willard, seen from the notch opposite the Silver Cascade, though as yet but imperfectly explored, deserves a passing notice. From below it appears like a dark hole in the steep cliff; and, though various attempts have been made to explore its shadowy secrets, from the day it was first discovered by old Abel Crawford till 1850, it remained among the unvisited wonders. To F. Leavitt, Esq., belongs the credit of succeeding, by means of a rope let down from the overhanging rock above, in the accomplishment of the daring enterprise of first visiting that spot. Fancy a man suspended over a dark gulf more than a thousand feet deep, by a rope let down from a ragged crag to a dark hole in the mountain, around the entrance of which were scattered the skulls and bones of animals, and you have a glimmering of the picture. Our hero lost all desire to enter that dismal cavern, and, kicking the rope, was again drawn up ; and since that time, by his descrip- tion, no explorer has been found with sufficient nerve 84 THE tourist's guide to the and curiosity to make a second attempt. As there has never been discovered any possible means by which that den can be approached by foothold up the rock, and as the old Evil One has such daily business with mortal affairs, rather than believe that to be his abode, it ap- pears more just to conclude that alone there the moun- tain eagle finds a solitary home. BEABING AND DISTANCES OF WHITE MOUNTAINS. Mount "Washington as the centre, from which Mount Adams is distant 4 miles, N. by e. « Jefferson a 3 a N. by w. a Madison ii 5 a N. N. E. (( Clay u 1 a N. W. (( Monroe a 1 a s. w. -Top House was shut up for the season. The first evening he walked past the camp at the Ledge, and, having climbed up to the Bald Rock, he became enveloped in clouds ; and the snow being deep, and darkness coming on, he hastened back to the camp, and by the kindness of 3ir. Myers was made comfortable through the night. Next morning after taking a bowl of coffee and a few mouthftils of food, he started again to go up to the summit. The snow had in part disappeared through the night, but the mountain was still covered with clouds ; and, guided by the line of Etakes that mark the route for the new carriage-road, he 102 THE TOUEIST's GUIDE TO THE proceeded up to where the snow became deeper, and having lost his way, wandered till night. As it became dark he retreated down the mountain to a bunch of scrub- trees, and, with his umbrella for a shelter, passed a sleep- less night, without fire, and with ice upon his clothing, his hands and feet frozen ; and even after this he was thor- oughly chilled by the high wind, and compelled to wander thirty-six hours longer, without food, rest, or shelter ; and at last was only barely rescued from the embrace of death by the untiring exertions of six hardy mountaineers, who, on learning that a gentleman was lost, started in search. J. S. Hall was the first to discover the object of their search. Much surprise was manifested at finding him yet alive, as he had been over sixty hours exposed to extreme cold, without food, without rest, and with noth- ing but snow and ice to quench his thirst. This is the most remarkable record of great exposure in this mountain region to be found on any page of White- Mountain life. THE FATE OF BENJAMIN CHANDLER. The 4th of August, 1856, Benjamin Chandler left the city of Wilmington, Del., with the intention of visiting the New England States. He arrived at the Glen House August 7, and late in the afternoon of that day, with a little bundle under his arm, started to walk alone WHITE MOTINTAINS AXD FRANC ONIA. 103 to the top of Mt. Washington. That day on Tip-Top was rainy, and that evening clouds were hurled wildly over the dripping rocks by a cold north-west wind. At. dark, or a little after, two ministers, the Rev. S. J. Spaulding, of Newburyport, Mass., and Rev. Charles Smith, of Boston, an-ived at the Tip-Top House, saying as they sat down, dripping wet, " We passed an old gen- tleman half way down, and he will hardly get up alone to-night." After making certain inquiries, a guide was started out from the Tip-Top House, with a lantern, who, after going down nearly a mile, lost his light by the high wind ; and, after shouting many times as loud as he could in vain, he returned wet and cold, whereupon the pro- prietor of Tip-Top concluded that the old gentleman must have stopped for the night with some road workmen who were camping at the " Ledge." Next morning search was made ; but, as no information could be obtained, the general conclusion was that the old man might have turned back and left the mountain. All remained a mystery, till, late in September, David Chandler, son of the missing man, came in search, and offered a reward of five hundred dollars for his recovery. Many reports were circulated, and much time spent in search. July 19, 1857, Ambrose Tower, of New York, came across a skeleton, about half a mile eastward from the top of Mt. Washington. A gold watch, $57 in bills, $52 in gold, 104 tourist's guide to the white mountains. and a few dollars in silver, with a pair of spectacles, a pocket-knife, railroad ticket, &c., were found upon his person. No doubt remains in the minds of the witnesses about this being the skeleton of Benjamin Chandler. Report says he was about seventy-five years of age, had been for about fifty years connected with the Masonic fraternity, and had held for a long time the highest rank known to the order in this country. Since his loss, the appraisal of his property fixes the amount at one hundred thousand dollars. He was a man of very active habits, had a great inclination to ask questions, and had at times been deranged. ROUTES AND DISTANCES BOSTOIV TO T^THITE IMCOXJTVT^riVS, From Boston to Portland 105 miles. " Portland to Alpine House, Gorham, N, H., via Atlantic and St. Lawrence Railroad . . . . . 91 " " Alpine House to Glen House, at base of Mt. Washington 8 " 196 miles by Railroad, 8 miles by Stag-e . . . 204 " Coclieco HoTite. From Boston to Dover, via Boston and Maine Railroad . 68 miles. «' Dover to Alton Bay 28 " " Alton Bay to Centre Harbor, by Steamer . . .30 " «' Centre Harbor to Crawford House . . . . 56 " 96 miles by Railroad, 30 by Steamer, 56 by Stage . 182 « Roxite via TVetrs and. Centx-e Harl>or. From Boston to Weirs 103 miles. " Weirs to Centre Harbor . . . . . . 10 " « Centre Harbor to Conway . . . . . 30 " " From Conway to Crawford House . . . . 24 " 103 miles by Railroad, 10 by Steamer, 54 by Stage . 167 " From Boston to Plymouth, JST. H., by Railroad . . .124 miles. " Plymouth to Flume House, Franconia Notch, by Stage 24 " " Flume House to Profile House . . . . . 5 " *' Profile House to White Mountain House . . . 26 " " White Mountain House to Crawford House . . 5 " " Crawford House to Willey House . . . . 2 " HoTxte via "Wells River & I^ittleton, IV. H. From Boston to Wells River 162 miles. " Wells River to Littleton 20 " « Littleton to Crawford House 23 " 182 miles by Railroad, 23 by Stage . . .205 " Ploixte via Sel>ag:o ILrake. From Boston to Portland 105 miles. " Portland to Standish 16 « «' Standish to Bridgton, by Steamer . . . . 28 " " Bridgton to Conway 21 " « Conway to Crawford House 24 " 115 miles by Railroad, 51 by Stage, 28 by Steamer . 194 " Alpine House, aOKHAM, NEW HAMPSHIRE, AND HOUSES ON SUMMIT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON. THE subscriber has again leased this Establishment, which he has kept for the past twelve years. One of the stations of the Grand Trunk Railroad is directly in front of the Hotel, which is in the immediate vicinity of the finest White Mountain scenery, and easily accessible from all points. The best of horses, and carriages constructed especially for the purpose, will be furnished, on the shortest notice, for excursionists to the summit of Mount Washington, and in all directions to noted lo- calities or around the Mountains. In connection with the Alpine House, the subscriber is also the Proprietor of the Houses on the Summit of Mount Washing- ton, now so easily and comfortably reached by the new carriage road. Attached to these houses are stables, permitting visitors to tarry as long on the Mountains as they choose, and to return at their leisure, stopping on the summit over night or returning the same day. Believing that the Alpine House is too well known to the travelling public to need an extended description of its unrivalled situation and surroundings, the subscriber would renew his assurances that nothing in his power shall be omitted to give comfort and pleasure to all who may faA^or him with their patronage. J. E. HITCHCOCK. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 013 983 765 4