Class P^IL BookJ^// HISTORY OF FLORIDA. i Zd^i'Ji HISTORY OF FLORIDA FROM ITS DISCOVERY BY PONCE DE LEON, IN 15 1 2, TO THE CLOSE OF THE FLORIDA WAR, IN 1842. BY GEORGE R. FAIRBANKS. PHILADELPHIA: J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO, JACKSONVILLE, FLA.: COLUMBUS DREW. 1871. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 187 1, by J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO., In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. T3 w 1 TO THE MEMORY OF MY HONORED FRIEND, ISAAC H. BRONSON, THE FIRST JUDGE OF THE UNITED STATES DISTRICT COURT, NORTHERN DISTRICT OF FLORIDA, A CITIZEN . WHOSE PRIVATE LIFE AND PUBLIC VIRTUES SHED LUSTRE UPON THE STATE OF HIS ADOPTION, THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR. (V) PREFACE. Apart from the interest attached to Florida from its having been the first portion of the United States occu- pied by Europeans, it is associated with some of the most interesting and romantic events in American history. Portions of its long and eventful history have been writ- ten in the Latin, French, Spanish, and English languages. As early as 1591, De Bry published, in the Latin language, an account of the settlement of the Huguenots and the destruction of their colony, illustrated by fifty well-exe- cuted engravings ; and many later writers have treated of the history, climate, and natural productions of Florida, among whom may be mentioned La Vega, Fernandez, Biedma, Barcia, De Vaca, Herrera, Hakluyt, Roberts, Stark, Romans, De Brahm, Bartram, Vignoles, Forbes, and Darby; Williams published a very complete gazet- teer in 1837; and to these should be added the valuable work of General Sprague, of the United States Army, ''The History of the Florida War." Buckingham Smith, Esq., formerly Secretary of Legation to Spain, whose life has been devoted to the investigation of Spanish and Indian antiquities, has edited, with valuable critical and (vii) viii PREFACE. descriptive notes, several of the most interesting works upon Florida. But, although so much has been written in reference to Florida, hitherto no connected history of the State has been published ; and it has been the object of the writer of this work to bring within a moderate compass a complete and authentic history of the State, from its discovery by Ponce de Leon to the close of the Florida War. For obvious reasons, the events of the late civil war have not been incorporated in the present volume. They will, doubtless, at some future time, form the material of a chapter of no inconsiderable interest. University of the South, Seivanee, Tenn., Jan. 1871. / CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Discovery of Florida by Ponce de Leon — Expeditions of De Ayllon, Miruelo, Cordova, Alaminos, and Verazzano PAGE 3 CHAPTER II. Expedition and Shipwreck of Panfilo de Narvaez, and Adven- tures of Cabe9a de Vaca, the Discoverer of the Mississippi . 29 CHAPTER III. Expedition of Hernando de Soto " 48 CHAPTER IV. Expedition of Hernando de Soto, continued . . . .60 CHAPTER V. Route of De Soto's Expedition through Florida . . . '73 CHAPTER VI. Other Expeditions to Florida — Occupation of Santa Maria by Tristan de Luna — Expedition to the Borders of Tennessee and the Province of Coca 77 (ix) CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. PAGE Huguenot Settlements at Charles Fort under Ribaut, and at Fort Caroline under Laudonniere ....... 92 CHAPTER VIII. French Expedition of Ribaut to relieve Fort Caroline — Spanish Expedition of Menendez to expel the Huguenots — Capture of Fort Caroline by Menendez, and Massacre of the Garrison . 1 1 1 CHAPTER IX. Shipwreck and Massacre of Ribaut and his Followers . .121 CHAPTER X. Situation of Matters at St. Augustine, and Explorations made by Menendez 133 CHAPTER XL Recapture of Fort Caroline, and the Notable Revenge of Dominic de Gourgues 142 CHAPTER XII. Return of Menendez — Attack on St. Augustine by Sir Francis Drake — Missions to the Indians, and Massacre of the Mission Fathers — Attack on St. Augustine by Captain Davis — Estab- lishment of a Spanish Settlement at Pensacola . . .156 CHAPTER XIII. Governor Moore's Attack on St. Augustine — Invasion of Moore, with the Creek Indians, of the Indian Missions and Spanish Posts in Middle Florida — Erection of a Fort at St. Mark's — Capture of Pensacola by the French — Recapture of Pensacola by the Spaniards — Recapture of Pensacola by the French — Transfer of Pensacola to Spain 171 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIV. PAGE Attack on St. Augustine by Oglethorpe — Attack of Monteano on St. Simon's Island — Transfer of Florida to Great Britain . . igo CHAPTER XV. Policy of the English Government for the Settlement of Florida — Land-Grants — Dr. Turnbull's Colony of Greeks and Minor- cans at Smyrna — Governor Grant's Administration — Governor Tonyn's Administration — First Colonial Assembly — Revolution- ary War — Burning of Effigies of Hancock and Adams . . 210 CHAPTER XVI. English Occupation, continued — Capture of Pensacola by De Galvez — Capture of New Providence by the English — Retrans- fer of Florida to Spain ........ 228 CHAPTER XVII. Condition of the Province after its Recession to Spain — Notice of McGillivray — Operations of Bowles — Patriot Rebellion — Oper- ations of United States Troops in Florida — Indian Hostilities, between the Americans and King Payne the Seminole . . 244 CHAPTER XV II I. Occupation of Pensacola by the English — English driven from Pensacola by General Jackson— Destruction of Negro Fort on Apalachicola by Colonel Clinch — Defeat of Florida Indians by General Jackson — Occupation of Pensacola by General Jackson — Treaty with Spain, ceding Florida to United States . . 260 CHAPTER XIX. Organization of Territory of Florida — Condition of the Indians — Treaty of Fort Moultrie — Indian Agency — Treaty of Payne's Landing — Collisions between the Races 269 xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XX. PAGB Hostile Disposition of the Indians — Murder of General Thomp- son, Indian Agent — Massacre of Major Dade's Command — Battle of the Withlacoochee — General vScott's Campaign . . 284 CHAPTER XXI. Florida War, continued — General Jesup in Command — Indian Assault on Fort Mellon — Capitulation of Fort Dade — Flight of the Indians from Fort Brooke — Capture of King Philip, Coa- coochee, and Osceola — Battle of Okechobee — Escape of Coa- coochee — Surrender of HalleckHajo and others — Results of General Jesup's Operations — General Taylor appointed to the Command . . . . . . . . . . 303 CHAPTER XXII. Florida War, continued, under General Taylor — Removal of Apa- lachee Indians — General Macomb's Treaty with the Indians — Proclamation that the War was ended — Resumption of Hostili- ties — Massacre of Colonel Harney's Detachment — Tragical Fate of Mrs. Montgomery — The Cuba Bloodhounds — Expedition of Colonel Worth to Okechobee — Recapture of Coacoochee . 318 CHAPTER XXIII. Florida War, continued, under Command of General Worth — In- terview between General Worth and Coacoochee at Tampa Bay — Surrender of Coacoochee's Band — Active Operations of General Worth in the Everglades — Surrender of various Bands — Close of the Florida War 335 HISTORY OF FLORIDA, CHAPTER I. Discovery of Florida by Ponce de Leon — Expeditions of De Ayllon, Miruelo, Cordova, Alaminos, and Verazzano. 1512— 1525. The discovery of Florida is one of the romantic epi- sodes of history. Cohimbus and his successors had, rather by chance than design, pursued a southerly line of explora- tion, which had led them to the discovery, in the first in- stance, of the West India Islands, and, subsequently, of the mainland of South America and a small part of Central America. Even the shores of the vast Pacific had been reached by Balboa before the southeastern portion of the United States had been discovered. This seems the more singular, as the pursuit of a westerly course from Spain would have brought an expedition in sight of land on the coasts of North America much sooner than the southwest- erly course, v/hich carried the navigators to the islands and shores of the Caribbean Sea. It has been claimed that Sebastian Cabot, in the year 1497, sailing under a commission granted by Henry VII. of England, coasted along the shores of North America from 61*^ to the southern extremity of Florida. It is, however, very doubtful whether he went south of Cape Hatteras, in lat. ^6°, the whole statement resting upon 2 (13) X4 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. a passage in Peter Martyr, in which it is stated " that Cabot sailed so far toward the west that he had the island of Cuba on his left hand, in manner, in the same degree of longitude."* This expression, in connection with the previous state- ment that he had sailed as far southward as the Straits of Gibraltar, would indicate Cape Hatteras as the southern limit of his voyage. At the period of these early voyages the name of Florida was applied to the whole coast, from the Chesapeake southwards. The generally received opinion, however, confers the credit of the discovery of Florida upon Juan Ponce de Leon, in the year 15 12. The origin of the expedition which resulted in the discovery, and the object of its pros- ecution by the romantic old cavalier, have associated Flor- ida with the Fountain of Youth so long embalmed in ancient fable. Juan Ponce de Leon was one of the companions of Co- lumbus upon his second voyage, and subsequently remained on the island of Hispaniolaas an officer of some reputation under Ovando. While thus employed he visited the island of Porto Rico, and eventually received a commission to conquer and colonize that island. After various turns of fortune, checkered with successes and adversities, he at length succeeded in accomplishing its subjugation, only to find himself, as was not infrequent in those days, superseded * " Thus seeing such heapes of yce before him, he was enforced to turne his saile and follow the west, so coasting still by the shore that he was thereby brought so farre into the south by reason of the land bending so much southwards that it was thereby almost equal in lati- tude with the vStraits of Herculaneum, having the North Pole elevate in a manner with the same degree. He sailed likewise in this tract so far toward the west that he had the island of Cuba on his left hand, in manner, in the same degree of longitude." — HaklUYT, vol. iii. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 15 by some newer favorite of the court. Thus deprived of his dignity as Adelantado of Porto Rico, the restless old sol- dier turned, naturally enough, to the setting on foot of some new expedition, which should redound to his honor and profit. The explorations to the south and west had already en- gaged the attention of many others, and it was the fashion in those days to apportion limits, which would preclude all, except the duly commissioned parties, from visiting or ex- ploring within certain degrees of latitude and longitude. This arrangement was the more readily made, inasmuch as at the outset of the discoveries in the western seas Pope Alexander VI. had, by special grant, given to his Catholic Majesty of Spain — no diplomatic notes of protest being made by other powers, those most interested being ignorant of the concession — unlimited sway over all the countries, na- tions, and people lying to the westward of those previously assigned to the crown of Portugal. While casting about in his mind as to what direction to give to his proposed enterprise, the veteran was informed by some of those purveyors of the marvelous who can always manage to supply the appetite of the credulous, that there was a famous land, lying to the northwest, which contained within its borders all the treasures of El Dorado, and, more- over, to its other wonders added that of possessing a stream the waters of which were gifted with the power of confer- ring upon those who should bathe themselves therein the freshness of youth and a renovation of all their faculties. This enticing description appealed to Ponce de Leon by many considerations, among the most prominent of which was the natural craving for gold felt by him in common with all the adventurers ; and, moreover, to one sensibly declining in years and strength, nothing could be more desirable than to obtain a fresh lease of youthful vigor and 1 6 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. enjoyment ; while to these potent reasons was added the expectation that the honor which would crown the happy- discoverer of this wonderful land would exceed that of all his predecessors in the field of discovery. The veteran officer had acquired some degree of wealth in his public employments, and was thus enabled, from his own means, to equip three vessels for his expedition. He easily obtained followers to accompany him, as credulity was not a rare quality, and the real wonders of the New World were apparently as strange as any that could be invented. Departing from Porto Rico in the spring of 151 2, Ponce de Leon directed his course, in the first instance, towards the supposed location of Bimini, an island which shared with the other unknown region the possession of one of these wonderful fountains, and was said to lie near at hand in the Lucayan group. A long cruise amid the Bahama cluster of rocks and islets gave no satisfactory result to his search for the fabled Bimini, and, like many other wonders, more seemed to be known about it at a distance than in the locality where it was said to exist. Unable, after a long exploration, to find Bimini, he then determined to seek the more distant land which had tempted his covetousness and his ambition. It is highly probable that, in cruising among the Bahamas, he received informa- tion of the existence of land to the northwest of them, as the Strait of Florida is but some fifty miles in width, and the natives had, doubtless, some intercourse across the calm summer seas with their neighbors of the main. He first made land on the eastern coast of Florida on Sunday, the 27th of March, 15 12, but did not set foot upon its shores until the 2d of April, in lat. 30° 8', at a point probably a short distance northerly of St. Augustine. The Indian name of the country is said to have been Cautio, but Ponce HISTORY OF FLORIDA. n de Leon, following the custom of the times, by reason of having come upon the coast on Palm-Sunday — Pascua Flo- rida, as it is called in Spanish — and probably delighted with the green verdure and flowing glades which opened upon his view, gave to his supposed island the name of Florida. The usual ceremony of planting a cross and taking posses- sion of the country in the name of the Spanish monarch, swearing allegiance to his throne, and throwing the royal t)anner to the breeze, was observed, and the country came thereby to be considered by their Catholic Majesties a Spanish province by right of discovery. They remained on the coast some two months, exploring the interior to some extent, and visiting various portions of the shores of the supposed island. The inhabitants they found to be fierce and implacable, and the explorations made brought to light neither riches nor treasures of any kind ; nor could the eager De Leon obtain any tidings of the fabled fountain which was to renew his youth. Finally, discouraged with the fruitless results of his expedition, he returned to Porto Rico, carrying with him nothing of value but the report of his discovery. Whether the story of the Fountain of Youth, and of the golden treasures of the mainland, was a pure fable, or whether it was merely a poetic and exaggerated description of the country, may well admit of a doubt : I am inclined, however, to the belief that the latter is the more reason- able view of it. While much of Florida is in one sense comparatively barren, yet the evergreen and luxuriant foliage which covers its soil and hangs in rich masses along the banks of its streams, the pleasant equability of its climate, a country affording in its rivers, its forests, and its produc- tions, easy means for the support of life to a savage race — while the passion for display could be gratified by the gold 1 8 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. and pearls obtained, with no great difficulty, from the streams and hills of Georgia — might well cause it to be ac- counted by the occasional visitors from the adjoining isles as indeed a rich and pleasant country, and even the fabled fountain might seem to find a realization in some of the remarkably beautiful springs which exist in various portions of the country. Who that has ever floated on the bright waters of Silver Spring, or the bosom of the Wakulla, has not felt his pulses thrill with delight at the almost unreaf character of the scenf^ — the waters so pellucid that one seems suspended in mid-air; the shadoAvs from the skies above rest in changing beauty in its depths ; while the bright sunlight flecks the silvery rocks below with rays of dazzling brightness, and an azure tinge encircles every ob- ject and surrounds it with a halo of purplish light. It is not strange that they should be deemed to possess a reno- vating elixir, and to promise, to those who would dwell by their banks and disport in their waters, a restoration of youthful vigor and energy. Ponce de Leon, on leaving Florida, again searched for the renowned island Bimini, but with no better success than before, and thence returned to Porto Rico, putting the best face on the matter, and determined to gain what- ever credit might attach to his discovery of a new region of country; doubtless to enhance its importance, he made a flattering report of its riches and value. The purpose of his expedition had in the mean time become widely known, and the wits of the Spanish court rallied him not a little upon his pursuit of the Fountain of Youth. He sought for, and obtained, however, from the crown, the title and privileges, whatever they might be worth, of Adelantado of Florida, agreeing to transport thither three hundred men, and to conquer and colonize it for his Majesty. He was to commence his enterprise within one HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 19 year, and to explore the country within three years. He did not appear, however, to be in any haste to revisit it, and accepted the command of an expedition against the Canto Indians, in which he was unsuccessfuL In the mean time, in the year 15 16, Diego Miruelo, a pilot, sailed from Cuba with a single vessel, and, directing his course to Florida, obtained from some of the natives he encountered, pieces of gold, but without much exploration returned to Cuba, where he gave most glowing accounts of the richness of tlmt country and its neighboring islands, and excited the wish among a large number of persons to undertake an expedition to its shores. In the following year an expedition landed in Florida from a vessel commanded by Fernandez de Cordova. Bernal Diaz, afterwards so well known in connection with the conquest of Mexico, accompanied this party. Al- though they placed sentinels upon their landing, and took every precaution against surprise, they were unexpectedly attacked by a large body of natives, who wounded six and killed one of their number. The attack was made so vig- orously that the Spaniards escaped with difficulty to their vessel, and were glad to return to Cuba, where their leader died of his wounds. One Anton de Alaminos was of this party, and, upon his arrival in Cuba, undertook to make a full report of what he had observed upon the coasts of New Spain and Florida, to the governor of Jamaica, Don Francisco de Garay, giving a glowing account of the extent and riches of those regions. De Garay gave such encouragement to Alaminos that he went with three vessels to the coast of Florida, landed twice upon its shores, and was each time forced by the Indians to re-embark, and, pursuing his voyage, coasted the Mexican Gulf as far as the river Panuco. His patron, 20 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. assured of the truth of the representations he had made, applied to the Spanish crown for the Adelantadoship and government of the country. As no further action was had by De Garay, it is presumable that he did not succeed in his application. Lucas Vasquez de Ayllon, an officer of some distinction, holding several profitable employments in Hispaniola, and, as a consequence, very rich, formed a company on joint venture, in 1520, with six of his neighbors, having for its principal object the procuring slaves from among the Caribs, to work the mines of that island. The capture of these Caribs was an ingenious device of the settlers to replenish their supply of labor, which their hard usage of the natives had much diminished. The remonstrances and efforts of Las Casas had induced the Spanish court to issue decrees calculated to insure better treatment ; but it was found that the inhabitants of some of the islands were entirely impracticable, and the story was started that these Caribs were cannibals, and they were thus placed beyond the pale of humanity; so that it was not difficult to exclude them from the benefit of the humane laws framed to re- press the rapacity and cruelty of the colonists. Of course, if it was deemed necessary to obtain labor, nothing was easier than to discover an island of Caribs. De Ayllon made his preparations for a descent upon the inhabitants of the Lucayan Isles, a quiet and inoffensive people, among whom Columbus had first landed, and from whom he had received every mark of unsophisticated kind- ness; but they happened to be near at hand, and some one could be found to declare that they were Caribs and can- nibals, if it was the interest of others to have it so. For the purpose of this expedition, De Ayllon fitted out tv/o vessels, and made sail for these islands. Unsuccessful in entrapping the natives, and driven off by severe weather, HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 21 he passed to the northward, and came to the land of Chi- cora, on the coast of South Carolina. Of this wonderful land, two remarkable things are re- lated with much gravity by the ancient chronicler. They say he reports that the royal personages of Xapida, a neighboring province, were giants, made so artificially. The mode in which this was accomplished was as follows: While in tender infancy, certain Indian masters of the art took the young prince and princess, and softened their bones like wax, with plasters made of certain herbs, until they left them lifeless in appearance. The nurse who suckled the children was fed with very nutritious food. After some days, the professors in charge of the matter returned and stretched the bones of the infants, and did the same with the nurse, until they had arrived at such a stage of progress as would enable them to increase more than any others in stature, according to their experience in such matters. Others say, upon the authority of the Indians, that they grew so large because they were fed upon such rare and efficacious herbs that their growth was forced. This wonderful art may be considered as one of those lost of old, and these rare and curious plants are no longer known, even to the weird sisters. Another remarkable thing, which De Ayllon learned upon this expedition, was the existence of a race of beings with a caudal appendage, similar to that of the equine race, which was whisked about with great vigor. The diet of these singular beings was raw fish. Subsequent explorers seem never to have encountered these races, unless Gulliver's visit to the Houyhnhnms be considered as authentic history. Such are the mixed creations of the imagination, interspersed with realities, which characterize the relations of the early voyagers. De Ayllon landed at various points, and received only 22 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. kindness at the hands of the natives. By gifts and pro- testations of friendship, he enticed some one hundred and thirty of them on board his vessels, and set sail for His- paniola. So sudden and treacherous an act struck his captives with amazement, and aroused their fierce indignation ; no kindness or attention could reconcile them to their fate, and no artifice could divert the minds of the proud and high-spirited sons of Chicora from their grief and proud despair. They were of a different race and spirit from the natives of the Antilles, and would not submit to the restraints sought to be placed upon them. They were of an unconquerable spirit, and their successors upon the soil of Chicora, the gallant sons of Carolina, have vindicated their claim to be considered their descendants, in their spirit of independence and bold assertion of their rights and liberties. One of the two vessels foundered at sea, and went down with all on board. The other arrived in Hispaniola; but De Ayllon was severely censured for the artifices used to entrap the people of Chicora; and the final history and result of the expedition are thus briefly and pointedly told : ^^y los Indios 7io sirvieroJi de nada,porqiLe casitodos murieron de enejoy tristecay (These Indians profited them nothing, because they all died of care and grief.) Some years had now elapsed since the veteran Juan Ponce de Leon had obtained the title and privileges of Adelantado of Florida and Bimini ; but, discouraged by the reception which he had met with at the hands of the warlike Floridians, and by the ill success which he had encountered in his attempts to chastise the Caribs, he had remained inactive in his alcaldeship of the town of Porto Rico, yet not unobservant of the reports brought by the various expeditions which had, in the mean while, visited HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 23 the shores of Florida. The voyages of Miruelos and Alaminos in the Gulf of Mexico, and of De Ayllon on the Atlantic coast, had proved that Florida was not, as he had supposed, an island, but a continent of illimitable extent, and of greater richness and value than his own observation had led him to believe. His ambition and his avarice were again aroused, and he looked forward with renewed hope, not to finding his Fountain of Youth, but to founding an empire which should give to his name an enduring celebrity. During the year 15 21 he concluded' his arrangements for another expe- dition to Florida: Cortez had commenced his wonderful enterprise of effecting the conquest of Mexico two years previously, and the reports of his exploits had doubtless reached the sturdy Ponce de Leon and infused into his veins new ardor to undertake a similar enterprise. He fitted out two vessels at his own expense, and absorbed his entire fortune in his outfit. He reached Florida, after severe storms at sea, and landed on the nearest shore, eager to anticipate all others in planting his standard on the soil of his Adelantadoship. Doubtless his first act, upon land- ing, was to cause his notary to make proclamation of his sovereignty and right to the allegiance of the natives, as their governor-general, and to require their obedience, as was the custom of the great captains in those days. The answer of his liege subjects on this occasion was of a most unsatisfactory character, for they attacked his forces with the utmost fierceness and impetuosity, killing great numbers of the Spaniards, and wounding the governor himself severely, forcing them to retreat precipitately to their ships and to leave their coasts. Ponce de Leon, grievously wounded and sick at heart, and doubtless depressed at the apparent ill fortune which seemed to attend all the enterprises of his declining years. 24 HISTOR Y OF FL OR IDA. and, perhaps, believing, with the superstitious feeling of his countrymen, that some malignant fate overshadowed his destiny, rankling with pain of both head and heart, succumbed to the adverse winds of fortune, abandoned the shores of Florida, and the prospective honors before him, and sailed to the neighboring coast of Cuba, where, after a few days, he died, regretted and honored by many who had known the bold and adventurous cavalier in his earlier years. This simple epitaph was inscribed on his monu- ment : — * Mole sub hoc fortis Requiescunt ossa Leonis Qui vicit factis Nomina magna suis. Which was rendered into Spanish by Castellano, as fol- lows: — Aquesto lugar estrecho Es sepulcro del varon Que en el nonibre fue Leon Y mucho mas en el hecho.f Ponce de Leon left a son named Louis, upon whom the emperor conferred the Adelantadoship and honors of his father. It does not appear, however, that he ever made any use of his privileges, or attempted to carry out the de- signs of his father ; and he is heard of no more in connection with the history of Florida. Of all the historic names associated with its long history, De Soto alone perhaps excepted, the name of Ponce de Leon stands out more prominently than "any other : the romantic character of his expedition has won 'for him a ■^ Irving's Spanish Voyages of Discovery. f In this sepulchre rest the bones of a man who was a Lion by name and still more by nature. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 25 name and a remembrance which the real importance of anything he attempted or accomplished, in that or any other quarter, would have failed to give him — so true it is that the folly or credulity of mankind often makes more impression upon the public mind than distinguished vir- tues. In the mean time, De Ayllon, not discouraged by the profitless results of his abduction of the natives of Chicora, and trusting, by renewed effort, to make an advantageous lodgment upon that coast, proceeded first to Spain, taking with him one of the natives of Chicora, named Francisco, a captive whom he had instructed in the faith and language [/ of the Spaniards. Having presented himself at court, De Ayllon related to the ministers of the crown the events of the voyage he had undertaken to Chicora, described the situation of the country, its fruits and productions, as well as the manners and customs of its inhabitants, and sought the privilege of its conquest and settlement. This was granted, with the additional honor of being created a Knight of the Order of St. lago. The agreement entered into between the king and De Ayllon contained, however, a special article, which for- bade the subjection of the natives, or the granting of repartimientos, which, up to that period, had been usually given, and had been deemed a necessary privilege granted to the Royal Adelantados and conquerors. This clause was probably due to the untiring efforts of Las Casas to ameliorate the condition of the poor natives, and may also have had some reference to the previous foray of De Ayllon upon the people of Chicora. It is an interesting fact in this connection that a greater amount of consideration was accorded to the natives of the mainland of our own section of country, than to the people of the islands which the Spaniards had occupied. By the tenor of the Royal 3 26 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. Assiento with De Ayllon, the natives of Florida were to be treated as freedmen and vassals, and to receive com- pensation for their labor. Owing to delays in making his preparations, it was not until 1524 that De Ayllon was enabled, in conformity with his agreement, to dispatch two vessels to begin the explo- ration of that portion of the mainland embraced within his contract, which was from the 35th to the 37th degree of N. latitude. These vessels soon returned, bringing specimens of gold, silver, and pearls, and with so favorable a report of the country which they had visited, that De Ayllon de- termined to set out at once and take possession of his prov- ince of Chicora. He refitted the two vessels which had just returned, and, adding a third, again set sail, and safely reached his destination. Choosing a favorable point for landing, with the view of establishing a settlement, he dis- embarked, and was received by the natives with affected cordiality and pleasure, and this was carried to such an ex- tent as to disarm him of all suspicion. He at once con- cluded that his design would readily be accomplished, and congratulated himself upon the ease and dexterity with which he had glided into his government. For the purpose of exploring the country, he dispatched a party of two hundred men to visit a town a day's journey from the coast. This party was hospitably entertained and feasted by the natives for four days, and all precautions on the part of the Spaniards being laid aside, they were suddenly set upon, and the whole company destroyed, not one being left to carry to De Ayllon the news of the disaster. A vigorous attack was then made upon those who had remained in charge of the ships, who, getting on board with much dif- ficulty, made sail. It is said that De Ayllon himself perished in this massa- cre, and shared in the terrible retribution which was vis- HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 27 ited upon the expedition, on account of the duplicity and treachery of which De Ayllon had been guilty upon his first expedition. The son of De Ayllon sought of the crown the rights and privileges of his father, which were granted to him; but, being unable to equip an expedition, he died in Spain, it is said, of melancholy, in consequence of his disappointment. About this period, Juan Verazzano, an Italian navigator in the French service, came upon the coast of North. Amer- ica in about latitude 35°, landed at various points as he coasted northward, enjoying the most friendly intercourse with the natives, and coasted as far north as Cape Cod. He returned thence to France, and gave a brief account of his voyage and of the manners, customs, and appearance of the different tribes of Indians whom he from time to time encountered at different points on the coast. He made a second voyage to America, and was never again heard of, having perished probably at sea.* Public attention in Spain and the islands was now di- rected for many years to the progress of events in Mexico, where Cortez was prosecuting his successful career of con- quest, surpassing in the brilliancy of his deeds all that had hitherto been accomplished upon the shores of America, and giving a new stimulus to the love for adventure in all classes. From the success of Cortez, it seemed probable to the public mind that in the interior of both North and South America regions existed of great fertility, and abounding in gold, silver, and pearls, only requiring the stout arm and brave heart of a Cortez to give to whomsoever should dis- cover them the like rewards. An expedition for the conquest and settlement of Florida * Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 295. 28 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. was about to be undertaken upon a much larger scale, and under fairer auspices, than those which had preceded it. It was hoped that a new empire would be conquered, north and east of Mexico, in an indefinitely located region described as lying between the River of Palms (near Tam- pico) and the limits of Florida, which latter was, in those days, a general designation of the countries bordering upon the Atlantic. This long shore-line, from the Capes of Labrador south- ward to the Gulf of Mexico, was claimed at a subsequent period by two different parties, with about equal justice. The discovery of Florida by Ponce de Leon was considered by the Spanish crown as establishing their prior claim and right of dominion over the whole coast, while the English fell back upon the voyage of Cabot in 1497, and the view he obtained of the coast, as establishing theirs. Subse- quently France, as a third party, interposed the much stronger claim of actual occupation to much of the country. CHAPTER II. Expedition and Shipwreck of Panfilo de Narvaez, and Adventures of Cabe9a de Vaca, the Discoverer of the Mississippi. 1527. Those familiar with the history of the conquest of Mexico will recollect that after the successful march of Cortez upon the city of Mexico, and his occupation of the capital of the Aztec Empire, Velasquez, the governor of Cuba, under whose orders he had originally commenced the enterprise, became jealous of the success and position of Cortez, and sent his lieutenant, Panfilo de Narvaez, to supersede the daring adventurer. The gallant and astute conqueror of Mexico felt no dis- position to have his laurels thus plucked from him, and although Narvaez had brought with him a force of nine hundred Spaniards and one thousand Indians of Cuba, while Cortez had less than three hundred at his command, yet he determined, by a sudden and bold attack, to seize his rival and frustrate his intentions. His plan, favored by a stormy night, during which his opponents slept in fancied security, was entirely successful. Narvaez was taken prisoner, having lost an eye in the melee, and his forces submitted willingly, for the most part, to the leadership of the gallant Hernan Cortez. Narvaez appears to have been a leader of some military capacity, although negligent and lax in his discipline. He 3* (29) 30 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. possessed undoubted courage, but this quality was rendered nugatory by an overweening confidence in his own powers, which made him deaf to the suggestions of others more sagacious than himself. He was altogether deficient in that prudent and calculating foresight demanded in a leader who has to travel out of the beaten track, face unforeseen ob- stacles and an active and enterprising foe. Disappointed and crestfallen, after his release by Cortez, Narvaez returned to Spain, and endeavored to obtain re- dress at court, but his sagacious opponent had already ren- dered his own version of the affair, and had vindicated himself from the charge of disloyalty to the crown, while the lustre and interest attached to the report of his memor- able adventures in the subjugation of the Mexican capital effaced all the detractions which had been so industriously sent home by his rival. Failing to enlist any sympathy in his complaints against Cortez, Narvaez next turned his attention to getting up some new expedition, and asked the authority of the crown to undertake the conquest of Florida, with the title of Ade- lantado of all the regions which he might discover and conquer within certain limits. Hitherto the march of the Spanish explorers in America had, with few exceptions, been unchecked, and the path of discovery had become the road to successful conquest. Mexico, Panama, and the Spanish Main, as well as most of the islands in the Caribbean Sea, had submitted to the Spanish rule, and a mere handful of Spaniards had sufficed to rout thousands of defenseless natives. The native was consequently despised, and suc- cessful resistance was never anticipated. Duly commissioned to conquer and govern the provinces of the mainland, extending from the River of Palms (near Tampico) to Cape Florida, Narvaez left the port of San Lucar, in Spain, on the 17th of June, 1527, with five ves- HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 31 sels, carrying six hundred men. He stopped at Hispaniola, with the purpose of refitting and provisioning his vessels. While thus delayed, one hundred and forty of his men withdrew from the enterprise, preferring to remain in St. Domingo. After a sojourn of forty-five days, the vessels sailed to the port of St. lago, in Cuba, and there made arrangements for procuring provisions, which he found he could obtain at Trinidad, a port a hundred leagues to the west. He dispatched two of his vessels to that point, where they were overtaken by a hurricane, and totally destroyed, with all on board, some seventy souls. Owing to this dis- aster, he was compelled to defer his expedition until the spring. He purchased other vessels to supply the place of those which had been wrecked, and found some additional followers to accompany him. He finally embarked in April, 1528, with a company of four hundred men-at-arms and eighty horses, under the pilotage of Miruelo, before mentioned, who claimed to be familiar with the coast. They made land on the 12th of April, and on Holy Thursday, the 14th of April, they an- chored near the shore, in the mouth of a bay which is con- jectured to have been Clear Water Bay,* just north of that now known as Tampa Bay, but a long time known by its Spanish designation of the Bay of Espiritu Santo. The expedition had unwittingly passed the entrance of the la.rger bay, and supposed themselves to be still south of it. This error led to most fatal consequences. At the head of the bay in which they had anchored they saw Indian houses, one of which is said to have been very large, and of sufficient capacity to hold more than three hundred persons. On Good-Friday, a day of bad omen for the expedition, the governor took formal possession of * Buckingham Smith's Notes to Letter of De Soto, 1854. 32 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. the country in the name of his Catholic Majesty, and as- sumed the government of the province. . The natives received them with a bold fearlessness, yet not in an unfriendly manner, but at once made signs to them to go back to their ships. Upon a consultation of the principal officers, and, as De Vaca* says, against his decided opposition, it was determined to march along the coast to the large bay which their pilot had spoken of, and that the vessels should coast along to the bay and await them there. It was an unwise determination ; but they had barely escaped shipwreck on their voyage, were weary of the sea, and anxious to try their fortunes on land. An exploring party had met some of the natives wearing gold ornaments. Inquiring by signs of the Indians as to where they obtained this precious metal, they pointed northward, and gave the name of Abalachie, and indicated that there was an abundance of it to be had there, and that it was a province a long way off. The Indians told them truly, and meant the head-waters of the Apalachee River, in the gold regions of Upper Georgia; but as the name of Apalachee attached to the whole course of the river, and there were Apalachian villages near the Gulf coast, they were misled by their Indian guides, whom they forced to accompany them. In an exploration, before starting, they had come to the shore of the Bay of Espiritu Santo, but were not aware that it was the bay of which they were in search. One hundred men remained on board the vessels, which were placed under the command of one Caravallo. The remainder, numbering some three hundred, with forty horses, which remained out of the eighty put on board, constituted the land expedition. They seem to have * Cabe9a de Vaca, Relacion, p 31, Valladolid, 1555, Paris, 1837. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 33 brought but a scanty supply of provisions with them, as the allowance on which they commenced their march amounted to but two pounds of bread and half a pound of meat to each man. On this scanty provision they marched fifteen days, without seeing a village, a house, or a single living soul. They then came to a river, which was probably the Withlacoochee, on the banks of which they were met by twelve hundred Indians, who conducted them to their village, which was near by. A party was sent to the seashore, which they were told was not far distant, to look out for the ships ; they found a shoal, marshy, and sandy shore, but no appearance of the bay or their ships, and returned next day. Uncertain as to any point where they could meet their vessels, they de- termined to proceed to Apalachee, where they might find the treasures they were in quest of. Resuming their march, they came to a river of considerable size and rapid current, which they crossed with difficulty. This was doubtless the Suwanee, and it is likely they crossed it some distance from the coast. After passing this river, they encountered much opposition from the Indians, and their guides led them through a most difficult country, much obstructed with the trunks of fallen trees of large size. They had occasionally in their march found fields of maize, but were now seven or eight days at a time without seeing any signs of cultivation. As no mention is made of cross- ing the Santa Fe River, they must have passed over the Natural Bridge, or at some point below its junction with the Suwanee. From the Suwanee they marched seven days, and reached the neighborhood of what was repre- sented to them as the Apalachee they were in quest of. Narvaez and his companions seemed to have anticipated that this famed Apalachee was almost a second Mexico, where they were to receive the reward of all the privations 34 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. and sufferings they had previously endured ; but, much to their disappointment, they found only a petty Indian town, of some forty small cabins, made of thatch and built close to the ground. The country through which they had passed is described as level, the soil sandy but firm, the trees large, and con- sisting of gum, cedar, oak, pine, and palms, with much fallen timber, and with numerous lakes. Maize was culti- vated by the natives, and the country was said to abound in deer, rabbits, hares, bears, lions, and kangaroos.'^ The lions and kangaroos must have been exterminated since then, as none have been found by subsequent explorers. Falcons, gerfalcons, sparrow-hawks, merlins, and other birds are mentioned. By the name of falcon and ger- falcon they probably meant the chicken-hawk. The town of Apalachee visited by them, it is supposed, was not the principal Indian town, but a small village of the Apalachees. De Soto's expedition took up their quarters in a village called Anhayea, which is said to have contained two hundred and fifty houses, f ancj the location of which is believed to have been near Tallahassee, and the existence of numerous towns of fifty or sixty houses is spoken of. The town called Apalachee by De VacaJ was situated on a lake, and there was another village across the lake, which was possibly Miccasukie Lake. The Spaniards remained at this Indian town of Apala- chee for about a month, a grievous infliction, no doubt, upon the natives, who kept up a continued state of warfare, and discouraged them greatly as to the nature and re- * Cabe^a de Vaca. f L'Inca, Hist, de Florida, p. 74. X Cabe9a de Vaca, p. 50. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 35 sources of the country, telling them that there were few people in it, and that it was poor and sterile; but that nine days' journey towards the sea there was a town called Aute or Haute, abounding in corn, squashes, and gourds, and well supplied with fish, being near the sea. Narvaez exhibited no enterprise in exploring the country around him, but remained supinely in Apalachee with his whole force of three hundred men, without an effort to penetrate farther or to verify the accuracy of the accounts the Indians gave him. He was really in the midst of a rich, populous, and abundant country, but was incompetent for the position of a leader. Following the interested advice of the Indians, he set out for Aute. His march was contested at every step by the Indians, who, from behind trees and ambuscades, dis- charged showers of arrows, and eluded all pursuit. Some of the Spaniards were willing to make oath that the force with which the Indians discharged their arrows was so great, that they had seen red oaks, as thick as the calf of a man's leg, shot through and through ; and the narrator adds that this is nothing wonderful, for he himself had seen an arrow driven into an elm a span in depth. He says, further, that these Apalachee Indians were of such great stature, that at a distance they appeared to be gia?its, men of fine pro- portions, very tall, and of very great strength, and dis- charged their arrows with great force from bows eight feet in length, with entire precision at a distance of two hundred yards. After nine days of constant molestation, the forces of Narvaez reached Aute, but the inhabitants, doubtless ap- prised of their approach, had abandoned their village and burned their dwellings. They had on their journey passed a river which they called Magdalena, and which was prob- ably the Choctawhatchee. 36 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. Aute was one day's journey from an entrance to the sea, and has been by some supposed to have been located near St. Mark's; but the probabilities are that it was near the Bay of Apalachicola.* Finding the town destroyed, and neither corn nor pump- kins, they were consoled by being able to procure an abundance of fish and oysters, but they were not allowed to rest in peace ; whenever they went out they were way- laid, and could not leave their camp without danger. The wearied Spaniards, with insufficient food, kept in constant apprehension by the assaults of the natives, and unaccus- tomed to the country, were subjected to the miasma of the lowlands about them, now, in August, becoming noxious, and soon began to be prostrated by fevers. The alluring hopes which had led them on to Apalachee, and thence to Aute, had now no further basis to rest upon. The gold and abundance which was to reward them at Apalachee had not been found, and the plenty which was to await them at Aute had vanished. Their dreams of the conquest and spoils of a barbarous and wealthy people like that of Mexico and Peru were miserably dissipated ; they had now no further hope than self-preservation, or desire except to leave the country. Their vessels they had never heard of; sickness was daily thinning their ranks and less- ening their ability to proceed farther, or even to defend themselves where they were. Theirs was indeed a pitiful case, destitute alike of resources for ren aining in, or means of leaving, these fatal shores. The reflections of Narvaez, as he wearily and wistfully looked over the expanse of sea stretching towards Cuba and the Spanish possessions, must have been painful indeed, as he recalled with bitterness the bright hopes with which * De Vaca, p. 66. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 37 he had set out from Cuba, empowered, as the lieutenant of the powerful Governor Velasquez, to wrest from Cortez the wealth and magnificence of Mexico, and vested with almost vice-regal powers, to play the sovereign of a great empire ; then his inglorious defeat, and the renewed hopes with which he set out with a larger force to establish in Florida, as he believed, a government more than equal to that of Mexico ; and now to find himself a wanderer, cut off from even the knowledge of his countrymen, hemmed in by cruel and relentless foes, faint with sickness and dis- couraged by disappointment, a miserable, defeated, and helpless man. Utterly dispirited, he called a council of his followers, to consider how they could escape from the country before they all perished of disease and hunger. Their determina- tion, as indeed they could have come to no other, was to construct boats, and endeavor to reach the coasts of Cuba or Mexico. This seemed almost a hopeless undertaking; they had no ship-carpenters, nor any materials to build with, but they had the energy of desperation and the in- cital of hope. A smith of the company said he could make bellows from deer-skins, and would forge the neces- sary bolts, nails, etc. from their swords, arms, and equip- ments.* This he immediately put into execution. Others cut timber and hewed it into shape ; others gathered pal- mettos and made a substitute for tow for the caulking of the seams. Such ^v?S the diligence of despair, that, with but one single carpenter, they completed within six weeks five boats one hundred and thirty feet in length. They made cordage from the fibre of the palmetto, and from the tails and manes of the horses ; the sails they made from their ■^' Cabe9a de Vuca, p. 66. 4 38 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. clothing, and out of the hides of their horses they made bottles to carry water. During their stay at Aute, they lost ten men, who were killed while seeking provisions, and forty had died from disease, leaving two hundred and forty to embark in the boats. They embarked on the 2 2d of September, 1528, having killed their remaining horses to furnish themselves with meat. Narvaez commanded the first boat ; the second was in charge of Enriquez, the Controller, and Juan Suarez, the Commissary ; in the third went Captains Castillo and Dorantes; in the fourth. Captains Tellezand Penalosa; and in the fifth, Cabe^a de Vaca, each boat carrying about forty-eight men. After the provisions and clothing had been put on board, their gunwales, it is said, were not more than six inches out of water, and they were so crowded they could hardly move. "So much," says the narrator,* " can necessity do, which drove us to hazard our lives in this manner, running into a sea so turbulent, with not a single one of the party having a knowledge of navigation." It was indeed a most desperate undertaking for these tv\^o hundred and forty famished, sick, and down-hearted men, to launch upon an unknown and, at that season, stormy sea, with no knowledge of navigation, and scantily provisioned, in wretched, hastily- built boats, loaded down to the gunwales, and open to every swell of the sea. How different from their disembarkation a few months before, in the Bay of the True Cross, when, with banners displayed, and the sound of trumpets, they formally took possession of the country from which it was now their chief anxiety to escape ! They named the bay upon which they launched their * Cabe9a de Vaca, p. 68. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 39 boats, the Bay of Cavallos, and their embarkation was probably from the head of the Bay of Apalachicola, as the boats were some days in reaching the Gulf of Mexico, and the water is said to have been shallow. When De Soto's expedition visited the country, eleven years afterwards, the Indians conducted them to the spot, where they saw the traces of Narvaez's camp, the forge used in making the spikes, scraps of iron, and the bones of the horses, and their guide pointed out to them where the ten Spaniards had been killed in the neighborhood of Aute.* For several days the boats kept within the sound, and went out to sea at a pass which was probably that now known as Indian Pass, formed by St. Vincent's Island and the main. They then sailed westward along the coast in quest of the River of Palms. The question naturally suggests itself, as to the motive which induced them to go westwardly to seek a port mor e than a thousand miles distant, when it would seem to have been so much more rational to try to regain the shores of Cuba, not more than four or five hundred miles distant. The real reason lay in their ignorance of the true position of the port which they wished to reach. The River of Palms is located on the old maps in the neighborhood of Tampico, and Panuco was the most northerly of the settlements occupied by the Spaniards on the coast of Mexico. The position of Florida, in reference to Mexico, was long misapprehended, and Narvaez and his companions supposed, when they embarked in their boats, that they would not have far to proceed before reaching the Spanish settlements in Mexico. Upon several ancient maps in existence, the Bay of Apalachee is represented as about equidistant from the Capes of Florida and the Bay of * Historia de I^'Inca, lib. iii. chap. v. 40 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. Tampico, and De Narvaez and his companions supposed it would be safer to coast along to Panuco, rather than cross over to Cuba. It is subsequently mentioned that a party of four started by land for Panuco, which was be- lieved to be near, and, later, Esquivel refused to join De Vaca in an effort to reach Mexico, because he had under- stood from the friars in the expedition that Panuco had been already passed. Panuco was, in fact, twelve hundred miles distant from the Bay of Apalachee. Had they turned to the south and east, they could have coasted along Florida, often protected by islands, and procured fish and oysters in abundance, and would have been, when they reached the Tortugas, in the track of vessels going to Mexico. The remnant of De Soto's expedition, with better fortune, coasted westwardly from the mouth of the Mississippi, until they reached in safety the Spanish settlements in Mexico. After passing into the Gulf, Narvaez and his followers coasted westwardly along the shore, and soon began to suffer from hunger and thirst, and were in constant danger of shipwreck. They occasionally ran into the coves and creeks, and sometimes encountered Indians engaged in fishing. Entering St. Joseph's Bay, they landed, and were hospitably received by an Indian chief, but in the night were attacked by the Indians. In the melee, they took from the chief his blanket, which was made of the skins of the civet-marten ; with this other chiefs were occa- sionally seen decorated. Afterwards they landed upon an island, which appears to have been the island of Santa Rosa. Here their boats got aground, and they nearly perished from cold and hunger. The natives of this place treated them with great kindness, supplying them with fish and a kind of root which was like a walnut in size and obtained from under the water with much labor. De Vaca's party, attempting to get their boat off in HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 4, order to re-embark, lost three of their number, who were drowned by the boat capsizing, one of whom was Alonzo de Salis, the Assessor. The sympathy of the Indians was much excited on their behalf, and every assistance in their power was freely given. By this disaster they lost their boat and all their clothing, and suffered severely from the cold winds of November. The boat of Captains Dorantes and Castillo was also wrecked on this island. The Span- iards soon exhausted the small amount of provisions fur- nished by the Indians, and were reduced to such extremity that they lived on the bodies of such as died, and in a short time, of eighty souls who had come in the two boats, but fifteen remained alive.* The fate of those who were in the other three boats was equally disastrous. The boat of Enriquez the Controller and Juan Suarez was wrecked near Pensacola Bay, and they proceeded along the shore to the Perdido, across which they were carried by the governor's boat. Afterwards, the rest of his men having gone on shore, Narvaez persisted in remaining on board, having w^ith him only the cockswain and a lad, and having on board neither provisions nor water. At midnight the wind arose off shore, and his boat, being anchored with only a stone, was driven to sea, and nothing more was ever heard of this renowned Captain-General and Adelantado of Florida, Panfilo de Narvaez. The survivors of these two boats, some ninety in number, gradually died from hunger and starvation, the living sub- sisting upon the dried flesh of their comrades, endeavoring to prolong their own existence until they too succumbed to their fate. The fifth and last boat, that of Captains Tellez and Pena- * C.msidering the abundance of fish and oysters in that vicinity, this statement is remarkable. 42 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. losa, continued on across Mobile Bay, and as far as Pass Christian, where they landed among a people called the Camones, and, according to the report given to De Vaca by the Indians, were all killed by the natives, having become so feeble that they could offer no resistance.* Of the three hundred who started on the land march from the Bay of the True Cross with Narvaez, but four are known to have escaped. These were Cabega de Vaca, the Treasurer, Captain Alonzo Castillo, Captain Andreas Do- rantes, and Estevanico, an Arabian negro or Moor. Juan Ortiz, who was found among the Indians by De Soto, and was his interpreter, was decoyed on shore from one of the vessels after Narvaez had begun his march. When Narvaez began his land march, he left three vessels in the bay, with one hundred men and ten women on board, and with a very small amount of stores. These vessels were to have sailed along the coast, as near the shore as possible, and to enter the best port they could find and there await Narvaez. They accordingly followed the coast for some distance without finding any harbor, and then sailed to the southward, and five or six leagues below where they had landed on their arrival they found a bay which pene- trated into the land seven or eight leagues. Two of the vessels continued the search for Narvaez for nearly a year, and then sailed to Mexico. It is a curious circumstance that a woman who was on board one of the vessels had, before they began their march, predicted to Narvaez all the misfortunes which befell the party; he assumed to place little faith in the revelation, but doubtless, in so credulous an age, was depressed and dispirited by it.f The survivors, Cabega de Vaca and the others, owed * Cabe?a de Vaca, p. 155. f Ibid,, p. 296. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 43 their preservation to an idea which the Indians entertained that they were skilled in the healing art, and they were soon installed as great medicine-men. They rather hesi- tated at first about assuming the responsibilities of a pro- fession of which they were entirely ignorant ; but the In- dians insisted on their practicing, and their success exceeded their anticipations. De Vaca thus describes their modus operandi, and it may be considered quite as rational as many systems now in vogue. He says, the custom of the Indians was, upon finding themselves sick, to send for a physician, and after the cure they gave him not only every- thing they themselves owned, but sought among their rela- tives for more to add to the gift, in order to evince their gratitude. The medicine-man was also privileged to have two wives instead of one. De Vaca's style of practice was, to ''bless the sick, breathe upon them, recite a Paternoster and an Ave Maria, praying with all earnestness to God our Lord that he would give them health and influence them to do us some great good, in his mercy;" and he piously says that "He willed that all those for whom we supplicated should, directly after we made the sign of the cross over them, tell the others that they were sound and in health."* Prior to his advancement to the dignity of a Great Medicine, De Vaca engaged in the business of an itinerant trader, carrying shells, conchs, etc. from the coast, and exchanging them for skins, ochre, flints for arrow-heads, and other articles. He went by day entirely without clothing, having a covering of deer-skins at night. De Vaca remained six years among the coast Indians, whom he calls the Mariannes, busily obtaining such in- formation as would enable him to find his way back to the * Cabe9a de Vaca, p. 162. 44 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. Spanish settlements. Of a tribe called the Yezagues, he says, ''Their support is principally roots, which are very bitter, and require two days in roasting. Occasionally they kill deer, and at times obtain some fish, but the quantity is so small and the famine so great, that they eat spiders, the eggs of ants, worms, lizards, salamanders, snakes and vipers which are poisonous, and earth and wood;" and, says De Vaca, ''if there were stones in that land, I verily believe they would eat them.'' The men carried no burdens, but devolved all menial and severe labor upon the old men and the women : the latter worked hard. These Indians, he says, were great thieves, great liars, and great drunkards, from the use of a certain liquor. They were so accustomed to running that, without rest or fatigue, they could follow a deer from morning until night. In this way they killed many, for they pursued them until tired down, and sometimes overtook them in the chase. Their houses were of matting, placed upon four hoops; they car- ried them on their backs, and moved every three or four days in search of food. They planted nothing, but were a very merry people, considering the hunger they suffered, and, notwithstanding, never ceased to dance, or to observe their festivities. To them the happiest part of the year was the season of eating prickly pears, for then they had a season of plenty, and could eat their fill, passing their time in dancing and eating day and night. They peeled and dried them, packing them in baskets like figs. Mosquitoes were of three sorts, and all of them abun- dant in every part of the country, and their bite poisoned and inflamed the body. The Indians used to set the plains and the woods within their reach on fire, to drive away the mosquitoes, and to drive out lizards ; they also fired the woods to drive in the deer, and to attract the cattle to young grass. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 45 It will be seen by this brief statement of Indian customs, as given by De Vaca, that some of the usages of the pine- barren regions of Florida are inherited from the original occupants of the soil. A singular custom is mentioned of one tribe, that they suckled their children until twelve years old, and the reason given was, that they might not suffer in times of scarcity of food. At the end of six years, De Vaca, Castillo, Dorantes, and Estevanico, having become thoroughly versed in the language and customs of the Indians, and, we may suppose, by exposure and the use of pigments, coming closely to resemble them, determined to carry out their cherished purpose of reaching Panuco, in Mexico. Leaving the Mariannes at a favorable moment, they came to a tribe called the Avavares, and, having effected some remarkable cures among them, the medicine-men ac- quired an extraordinary reputation, and were considered superior beings. As such, they were carried upon their journey in great state, by large detachments of Indians, and had every want supplied. At times they were accom- panied by as many as two or three thousand of the natives. They at length came to a large river, where they saw an Indian with a sword-buckle, and learned that others had seen white men upon the river in boats, and with horses upon the land, and at some distance from them came upon traces of the presence of Europeans; shortly afterwards they encountered a party of Spaniards who had come out eastwardly from the Spanish settlements in Mexico. Cabe^a de Vaca and his companions, after their long sojourn of seven years among the Indians, at length reached the abodes of civilized men, and were received with the greatest sympathy by the Spanish authorities in Mexico. He was enabled to return to Spain, where, upon his arrival, he addressed to his Catholic Majesty an interesting narra- 46 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. tive of his adventures, with observations upon the manners and customs of the countries through which he had passed.* It appears that he desired to secure the privilege of re- turning to Florida and to have the appointment of gov- ernor; but other parties of greater position and influence were seeking those privileges, and the governorship of La Plata was given to De Vaca, who failed to give satisfaction in the administration of the government of that country, and was sent home in disgrace. His narrative of the ex- pedition and shipwreck of Narvaez and of his own personal adventures is exceedingly interesting, as containing the observations of the first European who traversed the region now known as the Cotton States, and the first white man who beheld the Mississippi and crossed the ■^ The following cotemporary notice of his return is found in the Relation of De Soto's Expedition, by Alvarez Fernandez, usually called the Narrative of the Portuguese Gentleman : — " When Dom Fernando had obtained the government, there came a gentleman from the Indies to the Court, named Cabeza de Vaca, which had been with the Governor Pamphilo de Narvaez, which died in Florida, who reported that Narvaez was cast away at sea, with all the company y' went with him, and how he with four more escaped and arrived in 'Nueva Espana. Also he brought a relation in writing of that which he had scene in Florida ; which said in some places, In such a place I have scene this, and the rest which here I saw I leave to con- ferre of between his Majestic and myselfe. Generally he reported the misery of the country and the troubles which he passed, and hee told some of his kinsfolke, which were desirous to go into the Indies, and urged him very much to tell them whether he had scene any rich country in Florida, that he might not tell them, because hee and another whose name was Orantes (who remained in Nueva Espana with pur- pose to return into Florida) for which intent he came into Spaine to beg the government thereof of the Emperor, had sworn not to discover some of the things which they had scene, because no man should pre- vent them in begging the same, and he informed them that it was the richest country of the world." HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 47 great Father of Waters. The discovery of the Mississippi has for a long time been erroneously attributed to De Soto; but Cabe^a de Vaca and his companions had rested upon its banks years before De Soto set out on his expedition ; and upon some high bluff by that wondrous stream should be erected a column bearing the simple inscription: — Alvar Nunez Cabe^a de Vaca IN HOC LOCO PRIMUS OMNIUM EUROP^ORUM FUIT, A.D. MDXXXV. CHAPTER III. Expedition of Hernando de Sotc. 1539. Those who have had occasion to consult the relations of the early adventurers who attempted the conquest or coloni- zation of Florida, cannot fail to have been struck with the fact that the country is eulogized by them all as a very rich and fertile country. Thus, in the English translation of the relation of the Portuguese Gentleman, by Hakluyt, it is said, '' Wherein are truly observed the riches and fertilities of these parts, abounding with things necessary, pleasant, and profitable for the life of man." And in the same work it is said that Cabe^a de Vaca reported, upon his return to Spain, '^ that it was the richest country of the world." Doubtless to most persons this will seem so ab- surd and exaggerated, as to cast discredit upon the veracity of the narrator. But this flattering estimate of the country by the early explorers and voyagers may be explained upon grounds perfectly consistent with the idea of sincerity on their part. It must be recollected, in the first place, that the name of Florida then designated a vast extent of country, stretching from the Gulf of Mexico, north- westwardly, towards unknown regions. The divisions of the country, as marked upon the maps, were Florida at the south, extending to the north of the Chesapeake, and meeting New France. In speaking of Florida, therefore, (48; HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 49 in those days, reference was had to a much larger scope of country than is now designated by the name. v^ The main object of all expeditions at that day was the dis- covery of precious me'tals, and, coming from the Old World, men had no standard of comparison by which to measure the agricultural value of the New. The shores of Florida presented to their eyes a more grateful and pleasing pros- pect than the sands of the Tierra Caliente of Mexico, or the swampy, impassable mesquite groves of South America. Let us suppose for a moment a vessel, long tempest- tossed upon the wild waste of waters, entering one of the harbors of Florida. As the shores are approached, there opens a gentle and placid bay, land-locked, and re- flecting with glassy stillness the shadows of the evergreen and towering trees of the forest. The fleeting clouds of heaven pass over its polished surface, and changing points of beauty are being constantly developed. The white- winged water-fowl skim quietly along its surface ; the waving moss droops from the hanging boughs; pleasant '' coves and sylvan retreats border its banks. The appearances upon the land are equally flattering : the green grass, even in midwinter, gives a vernal beauty to the landscape. The evergreen forests, flUed with birds of song and beauty, the magnolia grandiflora, with its glistening leaves and splendid flowers, the tall palm-trees, with their leafy canopies, the stalwart live-oak, the mournful cypress, the brilliant dogwood and honeysuckle, all give an air of enchantment and beauty to the scene. T]ie antlers of the noble buck, and the glossy plumage of the wild turkey of the forest, signal both food and noble pastime. An oriental and tropical richness and profusion of vegetable life seem to invite to enjoyment and ease. The voyagers ascend the gentle current of the placid 5 50 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. rivers, and new beauties are met at every turn. They seem to float amid flowers and perfume ; the drooping vines, trail- ing in the water, mingle with water-plants of various tints ; everything is tinged with richness and beauty ; and from some captured savage they hear always of the gold of some distant province, which animates their hopes and expec- tations. Is it strange that such a country should, where everything was new and marvelous and exaggerated, impart, without much license of the imagination, a pleasant glow of beauty and richness to the narrations of those who for the first time landed on its coasts? The progress of discovery and of conquest had gone on in the south with almost uninterrupted success ; a great and unexplored region was known to exist at the north, and the imagination had full scope to create for itself new fields for the acquisition of glory and of wealth. Panfilo de Narvaez had miserably perished, with all his noble men-at-arms and splendid equipment, and Cabega de Vaca had returned to Spain, himself and three others the only survivors of this unfortunate expedition. Hernando de Soto, it would seem, had already projected an expedition for the conquest of Florida. There was at that period no cavalier who occupied a more exalted position at the Spanish court than Hernando de Soto. He was a native of the town of Villa Nueva de Baccarota, in the southern part of Spain, near Xerez, and was of a good family. At an early age, living near one of the ports, San Lucar, whence sailed the expeditions for dis- covery and conquest of the New World, he went out under Don Pedro Arias D'Avilas, then Governor of the West Indies, by whom he was shortly promoted to the command of a troop of horse, and in 1531 was dispatched with one hundred men and a supply of horses by Arias to join HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 51 Pizarro, then on his way to undertake the conquest of Peru. He proved a most welcome and valuable auxiliary, and soon rose to be second in command to Pizarro himself. He shared the varying fortunes of the invaders, and acquired a large experience and great reputation as an accomplished and gallant leader. Daring, yet prudent, brilliant, yet cautious, he was always foremost and always successful. Under Pizarro, with a small force, he captured the Inca, and left two thousand slain upon the field. After the con- quest was achieved, and foreseeing the rivalries and difficul- ties about to spring up between the leaders, he withdrew, with a splendid booty of 180,000 ducats, which had fallen to his share, and, with some valiant comrades, returned to Spain in 1536. In addition to the permission to undertake the conquest of Florida, he received the government of the island of Cuba, and the title of Adelantado of Florida, and marquis of the lands he might conquer. Florida was then a terra incognita. Expeditions had touched upon the shores, and Narvaez had gone inland a short distance, but of the great extent of country reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from the Gulf of Mexico to the Arctic seas, very little was known ; the gen- eral impression, however, was that Florida was an island, and that a passage was to be found to the northward, similar to that around Cape Horn. The prestige of De Soto's name and reputation, and the evidences of his preceding good fortune, shown in the immense treasures he had brought back with him, and which were lavished by him with a calculating and magnificent prodigality, attracted to his standard a splendid retinue of followers, burning for adventure, and still more anxious, it is presumable, to share in the ransom of any Incas or Em- 52 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. perors they might find in the ''richest country in the world," to the certain conquest and subjugation of which they confidently looked forward. ^'■Possimt quia posse vi- dentur" (they are successful who believe they will be so) was the practical motto upon which the Spanish adventurers acted, and, believing themselves invincible, they really achieved prodigies of valor and manly prowess. One of the most distinguished of the associates of De Soto in the expedition was Vasco de Porcallo, one of the proprietary lords of the island of Cuba, who, although somewhat advanced in years, felt the spirit of both honor and gain within him. It was of a steward of this cavalier that the somewhat whimsical story is related by Alonzo Fernandez, "that understanding that his slaves would de- stroy themselves, he went for them with a cudgel in his hand at the place where they were to meet, and told them that they could neither do nor think anything that he did not know before, and that he came thither to kill himself with them, to the end that if he had used them badly in this world he might use them worse in the world to come ; and this was a means, it is said, that they changed their purpose, and turned home again, to do that which he com- manded them. ' ' De Soto first made a general rendezvous for his forces in Cuba, and recruited his command ; while staying here, he sent two brigantines, with fifty men, to discover the ports of Florida, and from thence they brought two Indians taken upon the coast, ''wherewith" (as well because they might be necessary as guides and for interpreters, as because they said by signs that there was much gold in Florida) "the governor and all the company received much contentment, and longed for the hour of their departure, thinking in himself this was the richest country that unto that day had been discovered." HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 53 De Soto left Cuba on the i8th of May, 1539, and landed at Tampa Bay on Whitsunday, the 25th of May, and the name of Esph-itu Santo was given to the bay in honor of the day. The number disembarked was about one thousand men-at-arms with three hundred and fifty horses, a force far more respectable in numbers and quality, in equipment and appurtenances, than had ever gone forth in any previous expedition. The fleet entered the bay, on the west coast of Florida, now called Tampa Bay, and landed, probably at Gadsden's Point, a few miles from an Indian town belonging to a chief called Hirrihigua, and which stood on the site of the present town of Tampa. The house of the chief was upon an artificial eminence, which still remains, after more than three hundred years, to awaken the interest of the anti- quary and certify the truth of ancient chronicles. While at this place, the two Indians whom they had been training for guides and interpreters escaped, to the great disap- pointment of De Soto. From some captured women, however, he learned that a Spaniard, left by Narvaez, was in the keeping of a neighboring chief. This man was Juan Ortiz, whose history would have been of itself a most inter- esting one had he possessed the skill to write it, or had he escaped with his life to Spain to relate it. After Narvaez landed, he had sent back to Cuba, to his wife, one of his smaller vessels, on board of which was this Juan Ortiz, to convey intelligence of his landing. She immediately sent additional supplies by the same vessel, and they arrived at the bay after Narvaez had entered upon his / march. Observing a letter fixed in the cleft of a stick on ^ shore, they asked some Indians whom they saw to bring it to them, which the savages refused, and made signs to come for it. Juan Ortiz, then a youth of eighteen, with a comrade, took the boat and went on shore, when they were immedi- 5* ^4 HISTORY OF FLORIDA, ately captured by the Indians, and taken to the chief, who was greatly enraged against the Spaniards on account of injuries he had received from Narvaez, and the companion of Ortiz was at once sacrificed upon his attempting resist- ance. The chief ordered Ortiz to be stretched out upon a staging of poles like a gridiron, and a fire to be built under him. He was of a young and interesting age, and when this cruel order was given, and the victim was about under- going this torture, a scene ensued which deservedly arouses our sympathies and admiration, and recalls at once the better-known and more widely appreciated incident of Pocahontas. The cruel Hirrihigua had a beautiful daugh- ter, about the same age as Ortiz, who, when she saw the dreadful fate to which the young Spaniard was doomed, was moved to that pity and compassion which, to the credit of her sex be it spoken, are always aroused in woman's breast by misfortune and suffering. Narvaez had been guilty, it seems, of acts of atrocious cruelty towards the mother of the chief, and the wrong had sunk deep and in- effaceably into his heart. Overcoming her own natural feelings of resentment against the race, and braving the anger of her father, this noble Indian maid threw herself at her father's feet and implored him to spare the life of the captive youth, urging upon him that this smooth- cheeked boy could do him no injury, and that it was more noble for a brave and lofty chief like himself to keep the youth a captive, than to sacrifice so mere a lad to his re- venge. The intercession of the noble girl was successful, and the young Spaniard was loosed and his wounds cared for by the gentle hands of her who had saved his life. After some months his life was again in jeopardy, and he was about to be sacrificed to the supposed requirements of the Demon of Evil, when his fair deliverer again inter- HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 55 posed, warned him of his peril, and advised him to flee to Mucoso, a neighboring chief; and at the dead hour of night she herself led him half a league upon his way, and, placing him in the path of safety, gave him her true woman's blessing and hopes for his welfare. He reached Mucoso, who received him well and protected him from that period until the arrival of De Soto, twelve years after- wards. It adds not a little to the romance of the story, to repeat, that the daughter of Hirrihigua was affianced to the chief Mucoso, and that, owing to the refusal of Mucoso to surrender Ortiz upon the repeated demands of Hirrihigua, the proposed alliance was refused by that chief, and his daughter sacrificed her love to her humanity, and Mucoso his bride to his sense of honor. Savages though they were, they gave an example of noble virtues seldom equaled in any society more polished or more re- fined. A party of horse sent by De Soto met Ortiz on his way to their camp, where he was received with great rejoicings, and the first question addressed to him from the very depths of their hearts was whether he knew of any neighboring country rich in the precious metals. Some of the cavaliers had participated in the ransom of the Inca of Peru, and had entered upon this expedition with similar expectations. The others, excited by the suc- cess of the followers of Pizarro, were greedy to search some land rich in gold. What they hoped from a country which they supposed to be the richest of any yet discovered, may be inferred from an examination of that chapter of the Conquest of Peru devoted to the recital of the almost fabu- lous amount of treasure obtained as the ransom of Atahu- alpa, which, it was said, filled with gold a room twenty- two feet long, seventeen feet wide, and nine feet high; an amount of treasure which perhaps it would not be rash 56 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. to say could not be obtained in gold, if Florida even now, at the end of three hundred years, were pillaged anew. A dim vision of some distant and ever-receding city, re- splendent with magnificence, and like Cuzco, ''where the roofs of the temples were plated with gold, while the walls were hung with tapestry, and the floors inlaid with tiles of the same precious metal," was ever before their eyes, and, like an ignis-fatuus, led them for weeks and months and years, ever disappointed and ever credulous to the last, dis- believing everything else told them by the savage races, and believing every promise of this.* Juan Ortiz was of much less real value to them as a guide than they expected. He had been kept within the limits of a single tribe, and knew little or nothing of the country beyond. The excursions of the troops soon became dis- couraging. The vessels were sent back, and Porcallo, the lieutenant of De Soto, found the hardships too great, and, * In vol. iii. of Hakluyt will be found the relations of Pedro Morales, whom Sir Francis Drake brought from St. Augustine, in Florida, in 1586, in which he says : " There is a great city sixteene or twentie dayes journey from St. Helena northwestward, which the Spaniards call La Gi-and Copal, which they thinke to bee very rich and exceeding great, and have been in sight of it some of them." (P. 361.) There is also a relation of Nicolas Burguignon, alias Haly, whom Sir Francis Drake brought from Florida. " He further affirmeth that there is a citie northwestward from St. Helena in the mountains, which the Spaniards call La Grand Copal, and is very great and rich, and that in these mountains there is great store of christal, gold, and rubies and diamonds; and that a Span- iard brought from thence a diamond which was worth ;i^5000. He saith also that to make passage unto these mountains it is needful to have store of hatchets to give unto the Indians, and store of pickaxes to break the mountains, zvhich shine so bright in the day in some places that they cannot behold them, and therefore they travel unto them by night." Ibid., p. 361. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 57 leaving the honor to the younger candidates for glory, he returned to Cuba. They then commenced their march to the northward, and, having no great supply of provisions, were soon re- duced to the necessity of depending upon the Indian fields ; but, it is said, " they were sore vexed with hunger and evil ways, because the countries were very barren of maiz, low, and full of water, bogs, and thick woods. Wheresoever any town was found, there were some beets, and they that came first, and sodden with water and salt, did eat them without any other thing, and such as could not get them gathered stalks of maiz, which, because they were young, had no maiz in them. When they came to the river (the Withlacoochee, it is supposed) they found palmettos upon low palm-trees like those of Andalusia." They went thence to Ocali, which is described as being a fertile region, and where they found abundance of corn, and other provisions, as well as plums, grapes, nuts, and acorns. After leaving Ocali, situated in the neighborhood, it is supposed, of the present town of that name, they entered the domain of a chief called Vitachuco, who gave them battle in every form, and exerted his utmost efforts to de- stroy them. Those who have read Irving' s Conquest of Florida will recall the bloody contest which took place on a level plain between two lakes, and the somewhat marvel- ous fact stated, that some two hundred Indians plunged into the lake, and remained there swimming for twenty- four hours without touching foot to the ground. This circumstance the chronicler La Vega thinks remarkable, and hardly credible, but for the fact that his informants were all honorable men. Hardships, and a fierce resist- ance to their farther progress, soon made their journey painful and disastrous; but De Soto was too determined a leader and too good a soldier to feel other than his mar- 58 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. tial ardor excited by opposition, and he with prudent sagacity overcame all the obstacles in his path. His line of march lay parallel to the shores of the gulf, and he probably at this time reached the neighborhood of Talla- hassee. A party whom he dispatched to the coast were shown by the Indians the remains of De Narvaez's encamp- ment at Aute, and the bleaching skeletons of his horses. De Soto's treatment of the Indians was probably better than that practiced by most of the discoverers, and in fact this was forced upon him as a matter of policy, for he found the natives of Florida far superior to the effeminate races of South and Central America, trained to combat, and filled with the most indomitable courage and persever- ance. In some instances they may have been treated with cruelty by him as a measure of policy, to overawe and terrify them. In one of the illustrations to De Bry, is a large plate, showing the cutting off of the hands of a number of chiefs by De Soto ; and many instances of his severity are scattered through the Portuguese narrative. It is said that '* after the well-fought battle of Vitachuco, some of the youngest of the prisoners the governour gave to them which had good chaines and were careful to look to them that they got not away. All the rest he com- manded to be put to death, and they being tied to a stake, in the midst of the market-place, the Indians of the Para- coussi did shoot them to death." In another place, it is said that ^'they took an hundred men and women, of which, as well there as in other places where they made any inroades, the captain chose one or two for the governour, and divided the others to himself and the rest that went with him. They led these Indians in chaines, with yron collars about their neckes, and they served to carry their stuffe, and to grind their maiz, and HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 59 for other services that such captives could do. Some- times it happened that, going for wood or maiz with them, they killed the Christian that led them, and ran away with the chain. Others filed their chaines by night with a piece of stone, wherewith they cut them, and use it in- stead of yron. The women and young boys, when they were once an hundred leagues from their countrie, and had forgotten things, were let go loose, and so they served, and in a very short space they understood the language of the Christians." A very creditable circumstance is mentioned, in the accounts of the expedition, of the attachment of the Indians to their wives. On one occasion the Spaniards found two men and a woman gathering beans : the men might have escaped, but one of them, being husband to the woman, would not leave her, and they fought most bravely until they were slain, having wounded three horses. Their style of dress is thus described: ''They have mantles like blankets, made of the inner rind of the barks of trees (probably the cabbage-palmetto), and some were made of a kind of grass like nettles, which on being beaten be- comes like flax." The grass referred to is evidently the bear-grass, which has a strong and flexible fibre, suitable for cordage or cloth, and is very abundant in Florida. The women covered themselves with these mantles; one was fastened on the shoulders, and worn with the right arm out; they wore another fastened at the waist, and ex- tending down towards the feet. The men wore a similar mantle over the shoulders, and deer-skins around the loins. The deer-skins were well dressed, and so well colored that they resembled very fine cloth. They made their mocca- sins of the same material. It would appear from this that the Indian costume of 1539 was the same as that of 1839. CHAPTER IV. Expedition of Hernando de Soto, continued. 1540. The Spaniards under De Soto, leaving Apalachee, in the country east of the Apalachicola, turned to the northeast, and came to a town called Yupaha, the sound of which is suggestive of the Alapaha, a tributary of the Suwanee. Here the following notable speech is put into the mouth of an Indian chief, which has a strong smack of Castilian diplomatic grandiloquence : ''Right high, right mightie and excellent lord, those things which seldome happen doe cause admiration : what then may the sight of your lordship and your people doe to me and mine whom we never saw? especially being mounted on such fierce beasts as your horses are, entering with such violence and fury into my country, without any knowledge of your coming. It was a thing so strange, and caused such fear and terror in our minds, that it was not in our power to stay and receive your lordship with the solem- nities due to so high and renowned a prince as your lord- ship is," (a diplomatic way of saying they could not help running away ;) ''and, trusting in your greatness and singu- lar virtues, I do not only hope to be freed from blame, but also to receive favours, and the first which I demand of your lordship is that you will use me, my country and sub- jects, as your own ; and the second, that you will tell me ( 60 ) HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 6i who you are, and whence you come, and whither you go, and what you seek, that I the better may serve you thereto." To this courteous speech the governor replied, '' that he was very much obliged to him ; that he was the son of the sun, and came from those parts where he is, and sought the greatest lord and richest province in it." De Soto here '' left a very high crosse of wood sett up in the middest of the market-place." The populousness of the country he had now entered, upon the Altamaha, maybe inferred from the fact mentioned that a chief sent him "two thousand Indians, with a pres- ent, to wit : many conies and partridges, bread of maize, two hens, and many dogs, which last, it is said, were es- teemed as if they had been fat wethers ; and when they came to any town and found thirty or forty dogs, he that could get one and kill it thought himself no small man ; and he that killed it and gave not his captain one quarter, if he knew it, he frowned on him, and made him feele it on the watches." In another tribe four Indians were taken, and none of them would confess anything but that they knew of no other habitation. The governor commanded one of them to be burned, and presently another confessed, and gave the information they desired. Feminine chieftainship is an unfrequent occurrence among savage tribes ; but near the Atlantic coast in South Carolina De Soto came into the territories of an Indian queen, in- vested with youth, beauty, and loveliness, who is styled by the old chronicles ''the Ladie of the countrie." Upon De Soto's approach, he was met by a lady ambassadress, sister of her Majesty, who delivered a courteous speech of wel- come, *' and within a little time the Ladie came out of the town in a chaire, whereon certain of the principal Indians 6 62 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. brought her to the river. She entered into a barge, which had the sterne tilted over, and on the floor her mat ready laid, with two cushions upon it, one upon another, where she sat her down, and with her came her principal Indians, in other barges, which did wait upon her." She went to the place where the governor was, and at her coming she made this speech: '' Excellent lord, I wish this coming of your lordships into these your countries to be most happy ; although my power be not answerable to my will, and my services be not according to my desire, nor such as so high a prince as your lordships deserveth, yet such the good will is rather to be accepted than all the treasures of the world that without it can be offered ; with most unfailable and manifest affection I offer you my person, lords, and subjects, and this small service. ' ' After this courteous and graceful speech from the throne, to which it maybe inferred that so gallant a cavalier as De Soto must have replied in equally complimentary style, the princess caused to be presented to the Adelantado rich presents of the clothes and skins of the country, and — far greater attraction for them — beautiful strings of pearls. Her Majesty, after some maiden coyness, took from her own neck a great cordon of pearls and cast it about the neck of the governor, entertaining him with very gra- cious speeches of love and courtesy, and as soon as he was lodged in the town she sent him another present, of not quite so delicate and refined a character, but no doubt considered by her of far greater value, namely, some hens. Perceiving that they valued the pearls, she advised the governor to send and search certain graves that were in that town, and that he should find many. They sought the graves, and there found fourteen ^' measures" of pearls, weighing two hmidred and ninety-two pounds, and little HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 63 babies and birds made of them, reminding one of the recent excavations at Cliiriqui. The people were brown, well made and well propor- tioned, and more civil than any others that were seen in all the country of Florida, and all of them went shod and clothed. The Spaniards, wearied with their long and fruitless travel, and worn down by their hardships, urged upon their leader that it was a good country to inhabit, and in a temperate climate, and that ships going and coming from Spain might touch there, and that it was a productive country. But the governor, it is said, '^ since his intent was to seek another treasure like that of Atahualpa, Lord of Peru, was not contented with a good country, nor with pearls, though many of them were worth their weight in gold. And being a stern man, and of few words, though he was glad to sift and know the opinion of all men, yet after he had delivered his own he would not be contraried, and always did what he liked himself, and so it is said all men did condescend unto his will, and though it seems an errour to leave that country, yet there was none that would say anything against him after they knew his resolution." The fair princess seems to have been ill requited for her hospitable reception of the Spaniards. Held as a hostage (for the good behavior of the Indians, it is to be presumed), De Soto insisted upon her accompanying him, which she did for many days, until one day, turning aside into the forest upon some slight pretext, she disappeared, not with- out suspicion of design, as there happened to be missing at the same time one of the Spaniards, who report said had joined the fair princess for weal or for woe, and had returned with her to her tribe. Upon this meagre inci- dent, the romance-writer of the South, VV. Gilmore Simms, 64 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. has woven an ingenious and pleasant tale in his story of Andres Vasconselos. The journey of De Soto was thence to the borders of the Tennessee, meeting no opposition in his march. By one tribe he was met with a present of seven hundred hens, and by another with twenty baskets of mulberries, and on one occasion three hundred dogs were brought to him. Led on by the indefinite stories of the Indians, whose motive was probably to mislead him, he traveled through the upper parts of South Carolina, Georgia, and Alabama, until he changed his course to the southwest, and arrived at a town called Mauvilla. The tribes through which they had passed in the upper country seem to have offered no opposition, and were probably of a more peaceable disposition than those along the gulf. Mauvilla was the scene of a bitter and sanguinary conflict. The pearls and baggage which the Spaniards had borne thus far were left in the hands of the Indian slaves, who were suddenly surprised by the Mauvillians and carried into the town. De Soto, determined to strike a blow which should carry terror to the natives, attacked the place with great impetuosity, and set fire to the buildings, consuming alike the stores of the Indians and his own baggage, and — what they seem to have most regretted — their stores of pearls. The number of Indians slain in this encounter is stated to have been twenty-five hundred, while of the Spaniards eighteen men were killed and one hundred and fifty wounded. After this battle De Soto learned that Francisco Mal- donado, who had been sent by him from Apalachicola with the brigantines to look for a port to the westward, awaited him at the port of Ochuse — (Pensacola), six days' journey from Mauvilla. This Mauvilla is supposed to have HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 65 been on the Alabama River, and the name of Mobile is derived from it. It might naturally be that De Soto, having now trav- eled several hundred leagues through the country, and finding his hopes ever disappointed, would, at the end of these eighteen months of travel, gladly embrace the means of extrication afforded by this opportune arrival of his vessels. But the pride of the noble cavalier would not permit him to turn back while a glimmering hope remained of accomplishing his designs. He instructed Juan Ortiz to keep Maldonado's arrival a secret, because, it is quaintly said, ^'he had not accomplished that which he determined to do, and because the pearls were burnt there which he meant to have sent to Cuba for a show, that the people hearing the news might be desirous to come to that coun- try." He feared also ''that if they should have news of him, without seeing from Florida either gold or silver or anything of value, the country would get such a name that no man would seek to go thither when' he should have need of people; and so he determined to send no news of himself until he had found some rich country." And thus he deliberately turned his face forever from the shores of his native land, and from all the wealth and distinction of his viceroyalty in Cuba, intent on carrying out to its full solution the problem of the wealth and riches of Florida. Maldonado long awaited the arrival of De Soto at Ochuse, and at last, despairing of ever'again meeting him, turned his sails sorrowfully to bear to the Lady Isabella the report of the probable fate which had befallen the expedition. De Soto changed his course thence to the northwest, sore in body and sore in spirit, and was met at every step with . 6* 66 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. demonstrations of enmity; the towns were burned over their heads, and night -attacks were frequent. In the province of Quinague he was waited upon by six principal chiefs, who made this remarkable declaration: "That they came to see what people they were, and that long ago they had been informed by their forefathers that a white people should subdue them, and that therefore they would return to their cacique, and bid him come presently and serve the governour." The Spaniards were then near to the Father of Waters, which they called the Great River — Rio Grande. They described the river as ''about half a league broad. If a man stood still on the other side, it could not be dis- cerned whether he were a man or no. The river was of great depth, and of a strong current ; the water was always muddy; there came down the river, continually, many trees and timber, which the force of the water and stream brought down. There was a great store of fish in it of sundrie sorts, and the most of it differing from the fresh- water fish of Spain." From the cottonwood-trees on its banks, De Soto constructed boats large enough to carry three horses at a time, and crossed over at night without interruption from the natives. He spent the summer and autumn in exploring the regions beyond the Mississippi, and wintered, it is supposed, upon the White River. He here concluded that in the spring he would go to the seacoast, and dispatch a vessel to Cuba and another to Mexico, with the view of sending to his wife, the Lady Isabella, who '"as in Cuba, intelligence of himself, and for another outfit to enable him further to prosecute his expe- dition. Up to this time he had lost two hundred and fifty men and one hundred and fifty horses. About the middle of April he returned to the banks of the Mississippi, with the view of going to the coast, and at HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 67 once began to make inquiries about the country, but could get little intelligence. He then sent out an expedition to the southward, but it could make no progress on account of the numerous creeks and canebrakes. The gallant chief, who had so long borne up under every species of discouragement, who had ever responded with alacrity to the call to battle, w^ho bore himself always as a prudent and brave commander, now began to sink into despondency; and visions of the past, and a certain home- sickness, it may well be imagined, came upon him. A slow and wearing fever daily detracted from his strength, and he soon felt that the hour approached wherein he was to leave this present life. He called his followers around him to re- ceive his parting words, and said to them, '' that now he was to go to give an account before the presence of God of all his life past, and since it pleased God to take him in such a time, and that the time was come ; that he knew his death drew near, and that he. His most unworthy servant, did yield to Him many thanks therefor ; and desired all that were present and absent (whom he confessed himself to be much beholding unto for their singular virtues, love, and loyalty, which himself had well tried in the travels which they had suffered, which always in his mind he did hope to satisfy and reward when it should please God to give him rest with more prosperities of his estate) that they would pray to God for him, that for His mercy He would forgive him his sins and receive his soul into eternal glory, and that they would quit and free him of the charge which he had over them, and that they would pardon him for some wrongs which they might have received of him ; and, to avoid some divisions which upon his death might fall out upon the choice of his successor, he requested them to elect a principal person and able to govern, of whom all should like well, and, when he was elected, they should 68 ' HISTORY OF FLORIDA. swear before him to obey him ; and that he would thank them very much in so doing, because the grief that he had would somewhat be assuaged, and the pain that he felt be- cause he left them in so great confusion, in leaving them in a strange country where they knew not where they were." Baltazar de Gallegos answered in the name of all the rest; and first of all, comforting him, "he set before his eyes how short the life of this world was, and with how many troubles and miseries it is accompanied, and how God showed him a singular favor which soonest left it, and many other things proper for the occasion ; and besought that he would himself appoint his successor." He there- fore named Luis Muscoza de Alvarado his captain-general. The next day, being the 21st of May, 1542, ''departed out of this life the valorous, virtuous, and valiant Captaine Don Fernando de Soto, Governour of Cuba and Adelan- tado of Florida," whom, says the chronicler, "fortune advanced as it useth to do others, that he might have the higher fall. He departed in such a place and such a time, and in his sickness he had but little comfort." They attempted to conceal De Soto's death, but, the Indians suspecting the place of his burial, he was taken up at a late hour of a dark night, and, wrapped in his mantle, was conveyed by the dim light of the stars to the middle of the Mississippi, and buried beneath its stream, in sorrow and silence, with a low whispered De Profundis from noble and saddened hearts, who seemed to bury with their chief beneath those dark waters almost the last ray of hope, and to look forward to the future with heavy forebodings. The choice of a successor made by De Soto was ratified without dissent by his followers, and their first and only aim was to escape as soon as possible from a country which HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 69 had disappointed all their hopes, and given not even the barren rewards of honorable fame. They endeavored^ at first, to follow the supposed route of Cabe^a de Vaca, and reach Mexico, then called New Spain, by land ; but after traveling to the southwest for some time they became discouraged, and concluded to build boats and attempt to coast along the shore. Finding a suitable place, called Minoya, the governor commanded them " to gather all the chaines which they had to lead the Indians," and collect the timber and material necessary for building boats. They built seven large boats and floated down the Mississippi, and, after several encounters with the natives, reached the open sea, and coasted along to the westward until they reached the northern Spanish settle- ments at Panuco, where they were joyfully received and treated with great kindness. Many went on shore "and kissed the ground, and kneeling on their knees, and lifting up their hands and eyes to heaven, they all ceased not to give God thanks." Of those constituting De Soto's expedition who came out of Florida, there arrived at Panuco three hundred and eleven persons, the only survivors of the thousand brave men who, four years before, had landed at the harbor of Espiritu Santo. The main interest of this extraordinary expedition cen- tres in the person of the gallant chief with whom it orig- inated, and who staked his name, his fortune, and his life upon the success of the enterprise ; and as long as the great Father of Waters shall roll in resistless flood towards the sea, so long will the name of De Soto be recalled in con- nection with this expedition, and the sad fate which ter- minated his life upon its borders will excite a throb of sympathy for one who, at the early age of forty-two, passed from this world, second to none of his day or age 70 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. in the practice of all manly virtues and deeds of knightly prowess. We can hardly trace this long journey of De Soto through a trackless wilderness without astonishment at the persever- ance and hardihood which, under such circumstances, could traverse thousands of miles unprovided with means of sub- sistence, marching from tribe to tribe and country to coun- try, wherever the information of the hour produced hope for the future. Let us, for a moment, carry ourselves back in imagination three hundred and thirty-one years. From the beautiful pine-glades of Florida we see issuing forth the gallant troops of the Adelantado. Three hundred mounted men, on noble Andalusian steeds, richly caparisoned, lead the ad- vance. These are all gentlemen and noble cavaliers, hidal- gos of rank and scions of the noblest families of Spain, officered by brave captains, whose names are emblazoned for their valor under the banner of Pizarro. Following these come six hundred and fifty men-at-arms, on foot, in close and serried ranks, and in their midst several hundred of the natives, bearing the burdens of their masters. These are the slaves, native Indians, whom they have impressed into their service ; many are led by chains, and others man- acled, to prevent escape. When a sufficient number of some other tribe are taken to supply their place, these will be relieved and allowed to return to their homes, and the others substituted, to be again relieved in like manner. Riding behind the cavaliers appear twelve men in long, black soutaines, who are evidently non-combatants. These are the clericos, priests and friars, and in their train are those who bear the ornaments and plate for celebrating mass. At each encampment an altar is erected, draped with rich altar-cloths, and surmounted with a golden cruci- fix, while lofty candelabra throw their pale light upon the HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 71 worshipers. The priests, in their gorgeous vestments, cele- brate mass in the sight of the whole army, drawn up in hollow square ; and, kneeling amid their Christian masters, the natives of the forest, in mute wonderment, bow their heads in adoration of the Christians' God. So, day by day and week by week, proceeded the march. Wherever an Indian field was found, its harvest was gathered ; and wherever an Indian store-house or granary was dis- covered, its contents were speedily appropriated. For three years and a half this long march proceeded, without rein- forcements or additional supplies. This fact of itself speaks volumes for the energy and generalship of this distinguished leader. With but a thousand men, De Soto conquered and over- ran a country containing hundreds of thousands of inhab- itants, and for over three years subsisted his troops and maintained the discipline of his forces in a wild and track- less country, without, so far as we know, a single murmur of discontent being raised against him by his devoted fol- lowers. For three hundred years the red and white races have fought for supremacy over the countries traversed by De Soto, and now, at the end of more than three hundred years, the descendants of the warlike chiefs of Hirrihigua, Vitachuco, and Ocali still possess, amid the grassy ever- glades and cypress swamps beyond the Espiritu Santa, the hunting-grounds and graves of their ancestors. Three hundred and thirty years ago, the advent of the horses of the adventurers, which the Indians invested with supernatural proportions, first struck with terror the savage races of Florida, and seemed to be the terrible precursors and forerunners of the domination of the white race, ''the children of the sun;" and now the iron horse of an ad- 72 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. vancing civilization is startling those same pine forests with its shrill scream, indicating the fulfillment of that manifest destiny which was to strike forever from the land of their forefathers the last remains of the aboriginal races. CHAPTER V. Route of De Soto's Expedition through Florida. The long sojourn of De Soto in the region bordering upon the Gulf of Mexico and on the banks of the Missis- sippi, and the remarkable adventures which he encountered, enhanced by his personal character and prowess, have in- vested the expedition of this gallant adventurer with unusual interest, and it has long been an important subject of in- quiry to ascertain the route pursued by him and the locali- ties of the more important events of his journey, beginning upon the beautiful bay of Espiritu Santo and ending with the descent of the great Father of Waters. The task of thus tracing the steps of De Soto is by no means devoid of difficulty. We have to encounter not only the uncertainties of connecting names with localities imperfectly described, but have to be governed in these descriptions by three separate accounts of the expedition, exhibiting very important differences and discrepancies. The most voluminous of these is that of Garcilasso de la Vega, commonly called LTnca. The next in extent is the work of a gentleman of Elvas, who accompanied the expedition, and who is commonly called the Portuguese Gentleman. The third and briefest is the narration of Lewis de Biedma. The point where De Soto landed is stated by all to have been at Espiritu Santo Bay, on the western coast of Florida, and now known as Tampa Bay, a beautiful sheet of water, 7 (73) 74 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. some thirty-six miles in length, and the largest bay on the Gulf of Mexico. There are two heads to the bay, one open- ing northerly and the other easterly. De Narvaez probably landed near and visited the northerly or old Tampa por- tion of the bay. De Soto, it is likely, landed near Gads- den's Point, where the shoal water begins, and beyond which it was of insufficient depth to carry his vessels. Their first day's march was to the village of Hirrihigua, two leagues northeasterly, and the location of which, as described by L'Inca, corresponds to the present town of Tampa.* The village consisted, it is said, of several large houses, built of wood and thatched with palm-leaves. In an opposite part of the village, near the water, upon an artificial eminence so constructed as to serve as a fortress, stood the dwelling of the cacique or chief. From Hirrihigua, proceeding in a northeast course, at the end of two days De Soto came to the village of Mucoso, the chief who had befriended Ortiz. This may have been Hichipucsassa. They next, at a distance of twenty-five leagues from Hirrihigua, reached a town they call Urri- barracaxi, which was likely on the Withlacoochee, as they there crossed a river. They next reached a town they name Ocali, which was on the banks of a river. This location is uncertain, but has been supposed to indicate the neigh- borhood of the present town of Ocali and the Ocklawaha. From Ocali they went to Vitachuco — from the descrip- tion of the adjacent country, indicating a location near Wacahootee. After leaving Vitachuco, they reached a great river, too deep to ford, which must have been the Suwanee.f Crossing this river, they reached Osachile, which is said to have been ten leagues from Vitachuco. J * Irving's Conquest of Florida, p. 58. t Ibid., p. 127. + Ibid., p. 128. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 75 From Osachile they marched three days, and on the fourth came to the Great Morass.* Passing this, they entered a fruitful country covered with fields of grain and containing many villages. In four days after passing the Great Morass they came to the village of Anhayea. The line of march from Vitachuco west would carry them to the Suwanee, near Suwanee Old Town ; thence, bearing too far to the west, they were involved in one of the great coast swamps, but thence going northwestwardly they entered the fertile region embraced in the present counties of Madison, Jef- ferson, and Leon, and their Anhayea is thought to have been in the vicinity of Tallahassee. From Anhayea two exploring parties were sent out, one north and one south. The party which went north returned reporting very favor- ably of a rich and well inhabited country. The party which went down towards the coast found a sterile country, full of ponds and swamps. These descriptions would corre- spond very well with the country north and south of Monti- cello or Tallahassee. The village of Aute was twelve leagues from Anhayea, and not far from the Bay of Apalachee. De Soto sent back to Espiritu Santo and had his vessels brought into this bay. Afterwards he sent vessels coasting west- wardly. At a distance of seventy leagues they entered a beautiful and spacious bay, called by them Ochuse, which was evidently Pensacola Bay. They reported that it was land-locked and completely sheltered with bold shores, and large enough for a fleet to anchor in. De Soto does not appear to have crossed the Apalachicola or Chatta- hoochee River, but, having made an appointment for vessels to be sent from Cuba to meet him in the fall at Ochuse, he determined to proceed to a province to the northeast, abounding in gold, pearls, etc. Leaving Anhayea, * Irving's Conquest of Florida, p. 130. ^6 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. he traveled northeast, and at the end of three days came to Copachique; this was probably on the Savannah River. Two days farther travel brought them to Atapaha. This name so closely resembles Alapaha that it is reasonable to suppose they are the same, and that the town was on the river of that name, which, passing through a portion of Georgia, discharges itself into the Suwanee, in Hamilton County, Florida. Traveling still in the same direction, it is supposed they crossed successively the Altamaha and the Savannah River, and reached the region of Middle Georgia between Milledgeville and Augusta. They marched thence northwestwardly to the mineral regions of Upper Georgia, where they had been informed the gold which they saw in possession of the natives had been procured. De Soto then passed to the Etowah River, and visited a large Indian town situated at the confluence of the Coosa and Etowah, called Chiapa, the location now occupied by the present city of Rome, Georgia. He then passed southwardly through a rich and fertile country called Coosa, and eventually reached Maubila or Mauvilla, which was situated, it is supposed, at Choctaw Bluff. He here heard of the arrival of his vessels at Ochuse, on Pensacola Bay, and at first contemplated going to meet them, but, fearing that once near his vessels his men would insist on leaving the country, he determined to pursue his march westward. At Maubila he was not more than one hundred and fifty miles from Pensacola. His course was then northwestward to the Mississippi, and it is conjectured that he crossed a few miles below Memphis. CHAPTER VI. Other Expeditions to Florida— Occupation of Santa Maria by Tristan de Luna — Expedition to the Borders of Tennessee and the Province of Coca, 1543— 1561. While De Soto was thus traversing Florida and the coun- try east of the Mississippi, Mendoza, the Viceroy of Mexico, had fitted out an expedition to enter upon the route of De Vaca. It consisted of but thirty horsemen, under the command first of Juan de Caldivar, and after- wards of Coronado, who passed as far north as Missouri, and crossed several rivers, to which he gave names, but which are described with so little accuracy as to give but slender aid to their being now identified. Passing through a province called Quivira, they were informed of four white men having been there, whom they supposed must have been De Vaca and his comrades. After the return of Co- ronado, the zealous brothers of the order of St. Francis determined to visit Quivira, which, having undertaken with a small party, these worthy men fell martyrs to their Christian zeal, being murdered by the natives, with all of their party, except two men who escaped to Mexico by dif- ferent routes. Upon the arrival of Don Luis Muscoza de Alvarado in Mexico with the remnant of De Soto's expe- dition, Mendoza, the Viceroy, endeavored to induce some of them to lead an expedition he was anxious to fit out for Florida; but they were unwilling again to enter upon this enterprise. 7* (77) jS HISTORY OF FLORIDA. In the following year, 1544, Julian de Samano and Pedro de Ahumada, being satisfied that Florida abounded in pearls and fine furs, and believing that mines of gold, sil- ver, and other metals could be opened, sought the privilege of conquering the country, but failed to obtain the desired permission. A treasure-ship, on a voyage to Spain from New Mexico, was lost, on the eastern coast of Florida, in the year 1545, and of some two hundred persons on board who escaped to the land, all were sacrificed by the Indians except a few who were reduced to servitude. One of these made his way to Laudonniere twenty years afterwards, and s»everal others escaped to Menendez. The religious zeal of the Franciscans again induced an attempt to plant the cross on the shores of Florida. It is probable that had this attempt preceded the armed expedi- tions which had landed on these shores, they would have been received with the kindness which seems to have wel- comed the first comers to the shores of America. But the natives had learned to associate all white men with the armed invaders of their soil, and they could make no dis- tinction between the sword of the one and the cross of the other. Four Franciscan brothers, Fra Luis Cancer de Bastro, of the order of St. Dominic, who had been in Mexico, and held the office of Provincial Vicar of Guatemala and Chi- apas, Fra Gregorio de Betata, Fra Diego de Penalosa, Fra Juan Garcia, and one Donado, called Fuentes, sailed from Havana in the year 1549, and landed at Espiritu Santo Bay. Penalosa and Fuentes, attempting to penetrate into the country, were set upon at once and massacred by the natives. The others had remained on board their vessel in the harbor, and, while lying there, a Spaniard came off to them, named Juan Munoz, who was a page of Captain HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 79 Calderon, an officer of De Soto's expedition. He had been captured by the Indians, and held by them ten years, and now most gladly availed himself of this opportunity of escape. Fra Luis, t*he chief of the clerical party, was not discouraged by the fate of Penalosa and Fuentes, and, not- withstanding the earnest efforts of Munoz and others to dis- suade him from the attempt, he determined to try his power of persuasion upon the hostile natives. His Chris- tian zeal could not be restrained by the dictates of prudence, and, unwilling to give up the object of his journey thither without a final effort to reach the hearts of those people, he prepared to sacrifice his life, if necessary, in the attempt. Accordingly, he insisted upon landing alone among the dusky throng of warriors who lined the shores of the Espi- ritu Santo. Scarcely had the zealous priest touched the beach before he fell beneath the war-clubs of the infuriated savages, a martyr to his zeal ; and the shores of this most beautiful bay were reddened with the blood of one whose Christian devotion and unselfishness formed a marked con- trast to the characters of those whose lust for gold had brought them to the New World. The companions of Fra Luis de Cancer, deterred by his fate from making any further effort to Christianize the natives of Florida, abandoned the expedition, and set sail for Cuba. Some three years afterwards, a Spanish plate fleet, which had left Vera Cruz with upwards of one thousand persons on board, was wrecked on the coast of Florida. Stopping, as usual, at Havana, the fleet had again set sail for Spain, when it was overtaken by one of those tremendous gales which prevail with such terrific efl'ect in the southern seas, and driven before its resistless power. The whole fleet, with the exception of a single vessel, was cast upon the inhos- pitable shores of Florida, somewhere within the Gulf of So HISTORY OF FLORIDA. Mexico, probably very considerably to the west. Of the thousand persons on board, only three hundred reached the shore. They endeavored to reach Mexico by passing along the shores, making rafts to cross the mouths of the rivers, but, incessantly harassed by the Indians, and over- come by fatigue, they gradually decreased in numbers until all had perished except one Francis Marcos. He had been left by his companions, in a dying condition, buried in the sand, wirh only his face exposed; but, reviving sufficiently to exert himself a little further, he crawled along the coast until he was discovered and taken up by two friendly Indians, who carried him in a boat to Panuco. With the exception of the few who were in the vessel that escaped shipwreck, this Francis Marcos was the sole survivor of more than a thousand persons who had left the shores of New Spain full of joyful anticipations of a return to their native land, where they would become famous among their country- men as those who had visited far countries, performed great feats, seen wonderful things, and returned enriched with some of the treasures of Mexico. Notwithstanding the many disasters that had befallen those who had approached the shores of Florida, and which seemed to promise to the future invaders only disap- pointment and death, there yet appeared to exist some great attraction for the adventurous, and a belief in the hidden treasures of this country induced renewed efforts for its conquest. In 1556 a memorial was addressed to the emperor by the Viceroy of Mexico, and the Bishop of Cuba, to whose diocese Florida belonged, setting forth the great richness of Florida, and the immense benefits which would result to the cause of religion and to the empire from its acquisition. In consequence of this memorial, orders were transmitted to the Viceroy of New Spain to prepare an expedition for HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 8i the conquest and settlement of Florida, and it was said that such were the accounts given by those who had been in the expeditions of Narvaez and De Soto, of the exceed- ing richness of the country, that there was a widespread desire to engage in the enterprise. The expedition, which was to leave Vera Cruz in the spring of 1559, was planned upon an extensive scale. It consisted of fifteen hundred soldiers, and a large number of friars and zealous preachers, burning for the conversion of the Indians, all under the command of Don Tristan de Luna and other officers of experience. They sailed from Vera Cruz amid salvos of artillery and shouts of good will and kind wishes from the assembled mul- titude, and, gayly flinging their pennons to the breeze, they went forth with the most brilliant anticipations of success. On the 14th of August the fleet cast anchor in a bay to which they gave the name of Santa Maria, and described as a spacious and convenient harbor. This was doubtless the Bay of Pensacola, which we find frequently mentioned afterwards in the Spanish relations as the Bay of Santa Maria. Upon their arrival at this point, dispatch-vessels were sent to Mexico and Spain to announce their progress and confirm the opinions entertained of the value of the country. Reconnoitring expeditions were sent along the rivers, and preparations made for exploring the interior. On the 20th of August, six days after their arrival, there was a terrible gale, which wrecked the entire fleet, and destroyed a large portion of their provisions. Don Tristan de Luna en- couraged his followers to persevere in their course, assur- ing them that supplies would soon reach them from the viceroy, and he directed an expedition to be fitted out, composed of four companies, to penetrate the country which was called the Province of Coca. 82 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. With the remainder of his men he established himself at the port, with the hope that some opportunity would offer by which he might inform the viceroy of their unfortunate condition. The sergeant-major, with the four companies, traveled for forty days through an uninhabited country, until he arrived upon the banks of a river which he was unable to cross. Following along the banks of this river, which was undoubtedly the Alabama, they at length came upon' an Indian village, from which, on the approach of the Span- iards, the inhabitants all fled. They found within the houses a considerable supply of corn, beans, and other vegetable products. In examining the surrounding country they encountered some of the natives, whom they propitiated with beads and other trifling presents, and who, although they seemed surprised, made no attempt at escape. By means of an Indian interpreter, the Spaniards asked the name of the town and province, why it was deserted, and what country lay beyond it. They replied that the town was called Napicnoca ; that it had been very large and well peopled, but that other strangers, like the Spaniards, had destroyed it, and forced the inhabitants to fly, except a few who remained to gather the harvest.* The sergeant-major sent out several detachments to ex- amine the adjacent country, but they were greatly dis- couraged on finding only vast deserts and solitudes. Re- turning to Napicnoca, sixteen men were sent back to Santa Maria to report the progress of the expedition. In the mean time Don Tristan de Luna, who had with him at Santa Maria a force of over one thousand men, receiving no intelligence from the sergeant-major, and con- Undoubtedly the other strangers were De Soto and his party. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. Zt^ eluding from the time which had elapsed that the explor- ing party had been cut off by the natives, determined to remain no longer at the bay, where they were suffering from the want of provisions, their supplies being now ex- hausted. While preparing to go into the interior, the sixteen men sent back by the sergeant-major arrived, and, learning from them that at Napicnoca were corn and other supplies, De Luna determined to proceed with his men to that town, some going by land and others by the river. Upon his arrival, Don Tristan named the place Santa Cruz de Napic- noca. The large number of persons to be provisioned soon consumed the supplies which the sergeant-major had gathered, and they were obliged to rely upon such chance food as they could obtain, living upon acorns, which they partially relieved of their bitterness by boiling them first in salt water and afterwards in fresh water. The women and young children, unable to eat the acorns, lived upon the tender leaves and young twigs of the forest trees. They were soon reduced to the last stage of hunger and de- spair, looking forward to death as their only relief, when they were told of the province of Coca, which had the reputation of being an abundant and rich province, of which they had before heard, but were ignorant of the route to reach it. This information was gladly received; some of the party, who had probably visited that province with De Soto, assuring them that if they could once reach •there they would find an abundance of everything. De Luna thereupon sent the sergeant-major, with two hundred men, to explore the route to Coca, two worthy friars accompanying the expedition. The sergeant-major, now hopeful for the future, moved northwardly, forced to rely for food upon the roots and branches of trees ; seeming to have been too unskillful to obtain game. They were 84 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. forced to eat even their thongs and straps, and seven of their number died of starvation and from eating poisonous shrubs. They found no habitations, and encountered none of the natives, and were so reduced as to be almost in- capable of either advancing or returning to their comrades ; but they still pushed on, until they at length entered a wooded country, abounding in chestnuts and hickory-nuts. Relieved of their sufferings, they now felt cheered to prose- cute their journey, and, fifty days after leaving Napicnoca, they came to Indian settlements upon the banks of a river which the Indians called Olibahaki, and farther on they came to small towns. Making friendly advances to the natives, they procured provisions of them in limited quantities, the natives mani- festing much caution and distrust. A miracle is reported to have occurred while they were in this settlement, which is illustrative of the veneration entertained by the Spaniards for the mysteries of their faith. A rude chapel had been erected, of boughs, for the purpose of celebrating mass, and while the priest was in the act of consecrating the Host, he perceived upon the edge of the chalice a disgusting and probably poisonous worm, so situ- ated that an attempt to remove it would cause its fall within the chalice. Perplexed by so unfortunate a circumstance, the priest fell upon his knees and earnestly prayed that the worm might not be permitted to fall into the holy sacra- ment, and immediately the worm fell from the cup to the altar, devoid of life. The priest, regarding it as a miracu- lous answer to his prayer, made use of the occasion to urge upon the company constancy and conformity in their works, at all times, to the will of God.* - The sergeant-major remained quite as long as was accept- * Barcia, Ensayo Cronologico, p 34. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 85 able to his host on the Olibahaki, and they soon devised a plan for relieving themselves of their guests, which was no less cunning than amusing. Dressing up one of their num- ber en g7'and seignevr, with proper attendants, they sent him to the camp of the Spaniards to represent himself to them as an ambassador from the cacique of the province of Coca, empowered to extend to them an urgent invitation to visit that province, and offering to act as a guide. The Span- iards gladly accepted the invitation, made much of the supposed ambassador, and informed him that they would at once set out with him for Coca. They marched out with high expectations, but at the close of the first day's march their guide disappeared, leaving them to find their way to Coca as best they could. Finding themselves duped, some counseled a return to Olibahaki, but the majority preferred to go on, and a few days afterwards reached the object of their search, — the far-famed province of Coca. The principal town of this province contained about thirty houses, and there were seven other towns belonging to this tribe. The land, in consequence of the want of cultivation, did not appear so productive as had been reported in Mexico by the sur- vivors of De Soto's expedition. The neglect of the soil was attributed by the Indians to the fact that the people had fled from their habitations and fields, and been dis- persed by the followers of De Soto. The sergeant-major remained at Coca seven days, receiv- ing every mark of attention from the natives. Learning that the people of Coca were at war with a neighboring tribe, the Spaniards proposed, in recompense for the kindness they had received, to assist their friends of Coca, — a pro- posal which the Indians gladly accepted. Meanwhile, the friars were not unmindful of the spiritual purposes of their mission, and sought to enlighten the minds and reach the 8 86 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. hearts of the natives, portraying to them, to the best of their ability, the truths of the gospel ; but with little success, the Indians, it is said, being more intent upon punishing their enemies than upon the salvation of their own souls. The expedition against the Napaches, by the aid of the Spaniards, proved successful, no loss being sustained on either side, and a satisfactory treaty being made between the tribes. The sergeant-major proceeded to examine the country with a view to settlement, and in the mean time dispatched an officer with twelve men to report to the general, who, with eight hundred of his followers, had remained at Napicnoca. De Luna, having remained at the latter place for some time, and receiving ^no intelligence from the sergeant- major, concluded to return to the Bay of Santa Maria. Some of his party during their stay at the Indian town had died of hunger, and others had become greatly enfeebled. Before leaving, he buried at the foot of a tree a vase con- taining a scroll, with directions for any of the Coca expe- dition who should return there ; and on the tree he cut the words, '■'■Dig below.'' The Spaniards arrived at Santa Maria after a journey of severe toils and sufferings. At their own request, the friars were permitted to set sail Avith two small vessels for Havana, and to proceed thence to New Spain to procure succor for their companions. The twelve soldiers dispatched by the sergeant-major reached Napicnoca in twelve days, traversing in this space of time the distance which the Spaniards had taken seventy days to pass over upon their advance. Arriving at Napic- noca, the detachment were surprised to see no signs of the Spaniards who had been left there, but, entering the town, they observed the inscription upon the tree, and disinterred the vase containing instructions for them, and rejoiced to HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 87 learn that their friends were still living. Then pushing on with all haste to Santa Maria, which was forty leagues dis- tant, they reached there in three days, when they met with a joyful reception from their friends. The party which had been sent by the sergeant-major delivered the letters with which he had intrusted them for the general ; and to the inquiries eagerly made in the camp as to "the character of the country which they had visited, they replied, making a very unfav^orable report of the regions which they had passed through, enlarging upon the trials and sufferings they had undergone, and depre- ciating the province of Coca. These reports caused great discontent in the camp, and disposed a large number to advocate the instant abandonment of such a country. Juan de Ceron, the master of the camp, and others of the principal officers, expressed their opinion openly, and De Luna, in calling his officers together to announce to them his determination to proceed to the province of Coca, was met by a stout opposition on the part of De Ceron and those who entertained his views. The general, in reply to those who had no faith in the value of Coca, charged them with a desire to avoid the labor and trials attending the march and settlement of the country, and said that they were influenced more by their indolence than other reasons, and issued his orders that all should prepare for the march to Coca. But the discontent had already ex- tended to the larger part of the army, and, supported in their opposition by their officers, they set at defiance the authority of the general, and secretly sent word to the sergeant-major to return to Santa Maria. The messenger sent by them arrived safely at Coca, and informed the sergeant-major that the general commanded his return, as the army was about to leave the country. The Indians of Coca parted from the Spaniards with great regret, accom- 88 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. panying them two or three days' journey, and crying with great demonstrations of affection. The sergeant-major arrived at Santa Maria in the beginning of November, having been engaged some seven months in this explora- tion of the country. Events often derive their importance from the skill with which they are narrated; and had this journey of the sergeant-major been sufficiently fortunate to have a chronicler like Cabe^a de Vaca, doubtless it would have been regarded with as much interest as the expeditions of Narvaez and De Soto. The route pursued cannot be very well traced, the slight notices of natural objects and the unrecognizable names of towns giving no clue to identifi- cation. It is quite probable that the river encountered on their march to Napicnoca was the Alabama, and that the Indian town was somewhere near Camden. The twelve days' travel thence to Coca was through the pine-barrens and sand-hills of South Alabama, and the Olibahaki was the Coosa or Alabama. The province of Coca was the Coosa country in the northeastern part of Alabama. Upon the return of the sergeant-major to the Bay of Santa Maria, the camp still remained divided. The gen- eral retained his purpose to remain in the country, and the disaffected were equally determined to depart from that region. All respect for authority was weakened, and the quarrel became so violent as to render useless the efforts of the priests to reconcile it. The general, jealous of his authority and indignant at the opposition of his officers, became daily more harsh and irritable. In the mean time, the two vessels which had gone with the friars to procure relief reached Havana in safety, and thence proceeded to Vera Cruz, where they carried to the unwilling ears of the Viceroy their tale of the sufferings and disappointments which had attended the expedition. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. gc^ He was loath to credit the information; but the high char- acter of the envoy, Don Pedro de Feria, afterwards Bishop of Chiapa, gave no room to doubt the painful truth. It was a sad disappointment, after all the flattering accounts which had been brought to Mexico of the riches and fer- tility of the country, to be compelled to believe otherwise. The viceroy promptly sent off the two vessels loaded with provisions to Santa Maria. This opportune relief produced no change in the condi- tion of affairs at the camp of Don Tristan de Luna. Five long months they lingered on the shores of Santa Maria, each party inflexibly adhering to its resolution, so that the general could not proceed with his expedition, nor could the disaff"ected leave the hated shores. A reconciliation was finally effected, from the foot of the altar, by the skill and energy of Father Domingo. At length there arrived at the port of Santa Maria, Don Angel de Villafane, who had been sent out by the Viceroy of Cuba as Governor of Florida, with instructions to make an examination of the shores of the gulf, which, in con- sequence of the continual storms, he had been imable to do. Upon his arrival, councils were held by the officers as to the course which it was advisable to pursue. The general and a few others desired to continue the enterprise, but the larger number preferred to abandon the country. Those who desired to leave embarked on the vessels of Don Angel de Villafane. Don Tristan de Luna, with a few of his followers, re- mained at the Bay of Santa Maria, and communicated to the Viceroy of Mexico the events which had occurred, the obstacles he had encountered, and his views of the manner of remedying them; but the Viceroy, discouraged by the failures which had hitherto attended the expedition, and go HISTORY OF FLORIDA. unwilling further to pursue it, recalled De Luna, and aban- doned his efforts for the conquest of Florida. Thus ended the most considerable and best-appointed expedition which had ever landed on the shores of Florida, and which, under better management, might have been measurably successful in planting a colony on the banks of the Coosa. Although no such terrible disaster attended this as had befallen the previous expeditions, yet the priva- tions and sufferings which were undergone were well calcu- lated to deter others from a renewal of the attempt. The cavalier Don Tristan de Luna remained to the last, unwilling to turn his back upon a country the conquest of which had been assigned to him, and which he was satisfied was really valuable and productive. The clergy, who had in considerable numbers been attached to the expedition, added their voices to those who felt unwilling to remain, and De Luna was forced to abandon the beautiful Bay of Santa Maria, and leave the occupation of the country he had explored to be accomplished by succeeding generations. It seems evident, upon comparing the narrative of the expedition of the sergeant-major of De Luna with the ac- counts of Cabe^a de Vaca and De Soto, that the sergeant- major must have wandered through some barren portion of Lower Alabama, and failed to reach more than the out- skirts of the numerous Indian settlements in the country bordering on the Coosa and the Tennessee Rivers, and which De Vaca and De Soto had rightly described as rich and fertile. This expedition of De Luna possesses much interest, as establishing the fact that a settlement of Spaniards occupied the shores of the Bay of Pensacola in 1561, and that the whole of that region was known to them. Moreover, this was the last of the exploring expeditions which visited Florida, and occurred only a year prior to the landing of HISTORY OF FLORIDA. . ^I the French Huguenots, under Ribaut, on the eastern coast, and only antedated by four years the permanent settlement of Florida, effected by Pedro de Menendez. It is but just that among the historic names connected with the discovery and exploration of Florida should be remembered that of Don Tristan de Luna. CHAPTER VII. Huguenot Settlements at Charles Fort under Ribaut, and at Fort Caroline under Laudonniere. 1562— 1564. We have hitherto accompanied through the wilds of Florida the cavaliers of Spain, who, with the sound of the trumpet and the battle-cry of St. lago, carried devastation and slaughter in their march. They styled themselves Conquistadors ; their purpose was conquest, and their principal object the acquisition of gold, silver, and pearls. A country which promised rich rewards to the patient and laborious pursuits of the agriculturist offered no induce- ments to them. They had been corrupted and engorged with the plunder of Mexico and the spoil of Peru. They sought not to create wealth, but to seize and appropriate it wherever found, and they had little regard to the amount of suffering they caused the unhappy natives of the land, if either by torture or destruction they could force the dis- covery of their treasures. Their efforts in Florida had proved fruitless. Where they had looked for easy conquest and great reward they had found only privation and toils, and had met a race fierce and implacable, who lacked only the means of offensive warfare to sweep their invaders from their shores. Narvaez and his followers had perished ingloriously in their attempt to leave a land hostile at every step, and the miserable remnant of the force of De Soto, baffled in all their efforts, (90 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 93 had barely escaped into Mexico. The fruitless expedition of De Luna had failed of its object, and the whole of the vast country, from Mexico to the Polar Seas and from the Atlantic to the Pacific, contained not a single settlement of the white race. The dreams of conquest were over, and the adventurers were well satisfied to leave in peace "the richest country of the world." An entirely different class of persons now made their appearance upon the shores of Florida, the principal aim of whom was colonization and settlement. They were of a different race and had come from different motives. The weak and vacillating Charles IX. was King of France, and the Admiral De Chastellan, better known as the famous Coligny, was at the head of the Protestant party. Civil war raged between the votaries of the two religious bodies between whom the kingdom was divided. The transatlantic discoveries and settlements of the Span- iards in Mexico, Peru, and the Spanish Main suggested to the astute mind of the admiral the idea of founding be- yond the sea a new empire which might extend the pos- sessions of France, and at the same time strengthen, and, in case of need, afford a refuge to, the Huguenots, if borne down in their contest at home. An expedition was fitted out, and sailed in February, 1562, consisting of two good vessels, under Captain Jean Ribaut, an officer of much experience and considerable reputation. A prosperous voyage brought them directly to the coast of Florida, in the neighborhood of St. Augustine. Sailing to the northward, they discovered the entrance of the St. John's River, landed, and erected a monument of stone, on which was engraved the arms of France, it being placed, it is said, within the said river, and not far from the mouth thereof, upon a little sandy knap. They 94 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. named the river the river May, because they entered it upon the first day of that month. Re-embarking, they sailed to the northward, landing occasionally, and being received with kindness by the numerous Indians they encountered, to whom they gave presents of trifling value, such as looking-glasses and tin bracelets, with which they were much pleased. After sailing about ninety leagues to the north, they entered the harbor of Port Royal, and anchored. For several days they made excursions up the adjoining rivers, making peaceable overtures to the Indians, with whom they were now upon terms of amity. Ribaut finally concluded to plant his colony at this point, but it was a question as to what portion of his fol- lowers would be willing to remain alone upon these un- known shores. He thereupon called his men together and made them a skillful oration, which is reported to us with all the fullness of a modern "Herald" report. Adorning and illustrating his speech by various references to classical antiquity, he closed by saying, " How much, then, ought so many worthy examples to move you to plant here, considering also that you shall be registered forever as the first that inhabited this strange country ! I pray you therefore all to advise yourselves thereof, and to deliver your mind freely unto me, protesting that I will so well imprint your names in the king's ears and the other princes, that your renown shall hereafter thrive unquenchably through our realms of France." Such has ever been the peculiarity of the Gallic race ; they appeal, not to the appetite for gain, not to the riches to be acquired, but, from Charlemagne to Napoleon III., honor to France and renown to themselves have been the incentives to performance of duty and great enterprise. Ribaut judged rightly of the effect of such an appeal to the HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 95 hearts of Frenchmen. He had hardly ended his oration when the majority of the soldiers replied that a greater pleasure could never betide them, perceiving well the ac- ceptable service which by this means they do unto their prince, besides that this thing should be for the increase of their honors ; whereupon, it is said, Jean Ribaut, being as glad as might be to see his men so well willing, deter- mined at once to search out a place most fit and convenient to be inhabited. The matter was a momentous one — an empire was to be founded, and a continent taken possession of; \X was felt to be a great occasion, and the minds of the little band ran forward to the time when a New France, with its peopled cities, its rich and fertile fields, its coasts, whitened with the sails of commerce, would be in existence, and they remembered in those after-days as the first occu- pants of this vast country. A small fort was erected upon a little island and named Charles Fort ; twenty-five men were selected to remain, and placed under the command of Captain Albert. Supplies of ammunition and provisions were left, and with a parting salute of artillery, replied to from the fort, the vessels left the infant settlement, and the destinies of New France were centred in that little fort. The Indians were on terms of amity, and everything promised fair for the future. Ribaut, satisfied with this beginning, returned to France, having been absent about four months. The colony left at Charles Fort prospered for some time, and made various excursions among the Indians, by whom they were well received and lovingly entreated. Indeed, the French seemed to have a peculiar faculty of ingratiating themselves ; and the whole history of their ex- plorations, in every part of America, shows most uniform and remarkable success in conciliating and securing the affection of the savage tribes. gS HISTORY OF FLORIDA. The secret consists most probably in the peculiarly adaptable and versatile talent of the French, enabling them to accommodate themselves with ease to any customs or usages, and putting them at once at home wherever they may happen to be placed. Another reason is, that they are skilled in the art of pantomime, the only language at all available upon first meeting with a tribe whose language is unknown. The Frenchman, with his varying gestures, his expressive shrug, his flexible features, his animated manner of expressing himself, would soon be on a good footing and smoking a pipe with the cacique, where the stately Don would be expressing his pleasure in pure Cas- tilian and making gestures at the end of his lance, or the Englishman, with his phlegmatic temperament, would be attempting a direct negotiation. Whether as missionaries, explorers, or traders, the French have ever been foremost in the facility with which they have managed their red brethren. A very little additional aid to French coloniza- tion would have made the United States indeed a New France. Captain Albert made an excursion to a country called the Ouade, probably the Savannah River, where the cacique, after supplying them with corn, it is said, gave them a cer- tain number of exceeding fair pearls, two stones of fine crystal, and certain silver ore, and being inquired of where the ore and crystals came from, they answered that it came ten days' journey, and that the inhabitants there dig the same at the foot of certain high mountains, referring, it is quite evident, to the gold regions of Georgia. It had been the intention of Ribaut, when he left the colony, to return immediately with a much larger force, and provided with everything necessary to establish a per- manent settlement ; but, when he returned to France, civil war was raging, and nothing could be done, and the ' HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 97 existence of Captain Albert and Charles Fort was almost forgotten. Anxiously did the little garrison await the promised re- turn. Their provisions were becoming more scarce, and, day by day, they in vain scanned the horizon in the hope of descrying relief; but none came, and with disappoint- ment came discontent. Their captain became exacting and tyrannical and the men careless and disobedient. A difficulty arising with one Guerlache, a poor drummer, he was ordered to be hung by the captain, and this conclusive evidence of civilization was carried into effect ; another he placed on an island to starve, and then it was determined to remove Albert by taking his life, which they soon did. Months had rolled past since Ri- baut was to have returned. After the death of Albert they chose one Nicolas Barre as their captain; and finally, de- spairing of the return of Ribaut, they determined to attempt to get away. They had not a single ship-carpenter among them, but they managed to build a small pinnace, probably a mere shallop. They covered it with moss, made the cordage of palmettos, and the sails of their shirts and linen. In this miserable little affair, caulked with moss, and with such sails, this little band attempted to cross the stormy ocean which separated them from their native land. It would seem as though the first shock of a tempest would have buried them beneath the waves. They had not laid in sufficient provisions for their long voyage, and, although the calms they encoun- tered were favorable to their safety, they were soon placed in danger of starvation. Listlessly floating upon the sea, becalmed for many days, they were reduced to terrible ex- tremities, until at last they cast lots for the life of one of their number, and Leclerc was sacrificed, and his flesh di- vided equally — ''a thing so pitiful," says the writer, "that my pen is loath to write it." Fortunately, they were 9 98 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. soon after fallen in with by an English vessel and rescued. It seems wonderful that they should have escaped at all, for so crazy a craft never crossed the Atlantic. After the truce between the contending parties in France, Coligny turned his attention to the occupation of Florida, and on the 22d of April, 1564, he dispatched thither three vessels, respectively, of one hundred and twenty, one hun- dred, and sixty tons burden, under command of Rene de Laudonniere, who- had accompanied Ribaut in the first expedition. This Rene seems to have been a clever young man, some- what fussy and undecided, and considerably elevated by his first command. In person, if Le Moyne's pictures are correct, he was small and slight, with a pleasant counte- nance. The Indian chiefs are represented as towering a head and shoulders above him. On Thursday, the 2 2d day of June, 1564, about three o'clock in the afternoon, Laudonniere says he came to the land, went on shore near a little river which is 30° distant from the equator, and ten leagues above Cape Frangois, drawing towards the south, and about 30° above the river May. "After wx had stricken sail and cast anchor athwart the river, I determined to go on shore to discover the same. Therefore being accompanied with Monsieur d'Ottigni and Monsieur d'Arlac, my ensigne, and a certain number of soMiers, I embarked myself about 3 or 4 of the clock in the evening, and arrived at the mouth of the river. I caused the channel to be sounded, which was found to be very shallow, although that further within the same the water was there found reasonably deep, which separated itself with two great arms, whereof one runneth toward the south and the other toward the north. Having thus searched the river, I went on land to speak with the In- dians which waited for us on the shore, which, at our HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 99 incoming on land, came before us crying with a loud voice their Indian language, Antipola, benassan, which is as much as to say, brother, friend, or some such thing. After they had seen very much of us they showed us their paracoussi, that is to say their king and governor, to whom I presented certain toyes, wherewith he was well pleased ; and for mine own part I pray God continually for the great love which I have found in these savages, which were sorry for nothing but that the night approached and made us retire unto our ships. For though they endeavoured by all means to make us tarry with them, and showed by signals the desire they had to present us with some rare things, yet, nevertheless, for many and reasonable occasions^ I would not stay on shore all night, but excusing myself for all their offers, I embarked myself again and returned toward my ships. Howbeit, before mine departure, I named their river the River of Dolphins, because that at mine arrival I saw there a great number of dolphins which were playing in the mouth thereof." This account by Laudonniere himself, of his first landing on the coast of Florida, is given at length, for the reason that it is the harbor of St. Augustine which he describes; and the spot where that city is now built was the scene of the interview which he here relates. The two arms of the river, running to the north and south, are the North River and the Matanzas River, and the shallow water on the bar, and the gentle and pleasant courtesy which characterized the natives, may be said to be perpetuated to this day. In the volume of De Bry, relating to Florida, the first plate contains a striking picture of the River of Dolphins, a boat with Captain Laudonniere about landing, a large number of the natives on the shore. One group represents the paracoussi, seated upon a carpet of green leaves, surrounded with his people, awaiting the landing of the French, whose lOo HISTORY OF FLORIDA. three vessels are at anchor. The pahii, the pine, and the cedar are represented as growing on the shore. On the next day they sailed for the mouth of the river May, the St. John's, where Laudonniere was shown by the Indians the column erected by Ribaut. After examining various localities, Laudonniere concluded to establish his settlement at the point now known as St. John's Bluff. The reasons which induced a location upon the St. John, as given by Laudonniere himself, were that *'to the south- ward there was nothing but a flat, marshy country, unfit to inhabit, and, from the report of those who were left at Charles Fort, the country thereabouts was not productive, while the means of subsistence seemed to abound on the river May ; and upon their first visit they had seen gold and silver in the possession of the natives, a thing which put me in hope," he says, " of some happy discovery in time to come." The poetic nature of the Frenchman, and his eye for natural beauty, was kindled as he explored the margin of the river; and to one place which pleased his fancy, at the request of his soldiers, he gave the name of the Vale of Laudonniere — his eye charmed with the green meadows and bright visions of spring. Having fixed upon the spot upon which to erect the fort, he commanded the trumpet to sound, and assembled his men, to return thanks to God for their favorable and happy arrival. ^'Thus they sang hymns of praise to the Lord, supplicating that His holy grace might be continued to His poor servants, and aid them in all undertakings which they desired should redound to His glory and the advancement of our Holy Faith." They laid out their fort in the form of a triangle, and received some assistance from the Indians in its construction. An expedition went up the river in boats, and at twenty HISTORY OF FLORIDA. TOi leagues' distance, probably about Mandarin, they came to an Indian town called Thimagua, and by the Indians of this tribe he was informed of nine other kings or caciques, named Cadecha, Chilili, Eclanan, Enacoppe, Calany, Ana- charagua, Anitagua, ^quera, Mucoso. The last named will be recognized as the protector of Juan Ortiz, thirty years before. From time to time, boat expeditions were made to the tribes settled along the river, and they had frequent applications to assist the caciques in their wars against each other, and on several occasions did so. to strengthen themselves with their neighbors. On the 29th of August, 1564, it is said ''a lightning from heaven fell within half a league of our fort, more worthy to be wondered at and put in writing than any of the strange signs which have been seen in times past, and whereof histories have been written. For although the meadows were then green, and half covered with water, nevertheless the lightning, in one instant, consumed about five hundred acres, therewith, and burned, with the ardent heat thereof, all the souls which took their pasture in the meadows, which thing continued for three days space, which caused us not a little to muse, not being able to judge whereof the fire proceeded. For one while we thought the Indians had burned their houses and aban- doned their places for fear of us. Another while we thought they had discovered some ships at sea, and that, according to their customs, they had kindled many fires here and there to signify that their country was inhabited ; nevertheless, being not assured, I was upon the point to send some one by boats to discover the matter, when six Indians came to me from Paracoussi Allimicany, which, at their first entry, made me a long discourse, and a very long and ample oration (after they had presented me with cer- tain baskets full of maize, of pumpkins, and of grapes) of the 9* I02 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. loving amity which AUimicany desired to continue with me, and that he looked from day to day where it would please me to employ him in my service. Therefore, con- sidering the serviceable affection that he bore unto me, he found it very strange that I thus discharged mine ordinance against his dwelling, which had burnt up an infinite sight of green meadows, and consumed even down unto the water, and came so near unto his mansion that he thought he saw the fire in his house ; wherefore he besought me most humbly to command my men that they would not shoot any more towards his lodgings, otherwise he would be constrained to abandon his country, and to retire him- self unto some place farther off from us," The French commander, seeing that the Indians thought this wonderful stroke of lightning had proceeded from their cannon, encouraged the idea, and informed them he was glad they were inclined to be peaceable ; that he could easily have reached his house, some miles distant, if he had chosen, but that he only fired half-way to show them his power. All this the Indians believed, and the paracoussi would not come within twenty-five leagues of the fort for two months. "Two days afterward there followed such an excessive heat in the air, that the river became so hot that I " think it was almost ready to seethe, for there died so great abundance of fish, and that of so many divers sorts, that in the mouth of the river only there were found dead enough to have laden fifty carts, whereof there issued a putrefaction in the air which bred many dangerous dis- eases amongst us, inasmuch as most of my men fell sick and almost ready to end their days. Yet, notwithstanding, it pleased our merciful God so far to provide by his Provi- dence, that all our men got well." In September one of the Frenchmen pretended that by the secret art of magic he had discovered a mine of gold HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 103 and silver, far up within the river, and that their captain was intending to conceal it from them. Acting upon the credulity of others, he soon organized a conspiracy to make way with Laudonniere. At this time Laudonniere sent a small vessel back to France, under the command of Captain Bourdett, and with him seven or eight of those whose fidelity he suspected. He was subsequently prostrated by fever, and the dis- contented in his garrison proceeded to an open con- spiracy. They seized his person, and confined him upon a small vessel in the river for fifteen days. For the purpose of explorations by water, Laudonniere had constructed two small vessels. These they seized, and taking from the fort whatever they required, they set out upon a freebooting expedition against the Spaniards, or anybody else they might meet. The vessels were separated, and each went on its course. One of them captured the first vessel they met, and abandoned their own ; afterwards, cruising among the islands, they made another capture, and were finally most of them taken and destroyed. A small brigantine, escaping pursuit, returned to Fort Caro- line, and Laudonniere had them tried by court-martial, and the four leaders were sentenced to be hung. It is related " that when they found their proximity to Fort Caroline, in a kind of mockery, they counterfeited judges; but they played not this prank until they had tippled well of the wine they had on board. One counterfeited the judge, another Captain Laudonniere ; another, after he had heard the matter pleaded, concluded thus: 'Make you your causes as good as it pleases you, but if, when you come to the Fort Caroline, the captain causes you not to be hanged, T will never take him for an honest man. ' Others thought that, his choler being past, he would easily forget the matter." Being out of provisions, they were obliged, however, I04 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. to enter the river and submit to Laudonniere. The only modification of the sentence of death upon the four leaders was that, being soldiers, they should be first shot before being hung. Being led out to execution, one of them en- deavored to excite a rescue ; but they were all four shot, and then hanged upon gibbets at the mouth of the river. Thus early did this sad emblem of crime and human de- pravity succeed the planting of the sign of man's redemp- tion upon our shores. During this period, Laudonniere heard that two white men were living at a distance among the Indians. He at once sent word to the caciques of the neighboring tribes that he would give a large reward to have them brought to him. He soon obtained them. They were naked, wear- ing their hair long to their hips, in the Indian fashion. They were Spaniards by birth, but had been fifteen years among the Indians, having been wrecked upon the keys called the Martyrs. They said a considerable number were saved, and among them several women, who had married among the Indians and had families, so that pos- sibly the descendants of these Spaniards may be among the Seminoles to this day. Among other excursions which were made, was one to the widow of King Hia-caia, whose domain seems to have been at St. Mary's. It is said ''she courteously received our men, sent me back my barks full of beans and acornes, with certain baskets of cassina, where- with they make their drinke. And the place where this widow dwelleth is the most plentiful of any that is in all the coast, and the most pleasant. It is thought that the queene is the most beautiful of all the Indians, and of whom they make the most account, yea, and her subjects honor her so much, that almost continually they carry her on their shoulders, and will not suffer her to go on foot." In De Bry there is an engraving made from a sketch of Jacques HISTORY OF FLORIDA, 105 Morgues,* who accompanied this deputation, representing her Majesty in her state procession. At the head appear two trumpeters blowing upon reeds. Then follow six chiefs bearing a canopied platform, on which is seated, shaded by a leafy canopy, her Majesty in the person of a beautiful female. Around her neck is a cordon of pearls ; bracelets and anklets adorn the person, et prceterea nihil. On each side walk other chiefs, holding large feather shades or fans; beautiful young girls bearing baskets of fruits and flowers follow next to the queen, and then warriors and her household guards. An excursion to Lake George and the island at its mouth — now called Drayton Island — is thus mentioned : " I sent my two barks to discover along the river, and up towards the head thereof, which went so far up that they were thirty leagues good beyond a place named Matthiaqua; and there they discovered the entrance of a lake, upon the one side whereof no land can be seen, according to the re- port of the Indians, which was the cause that my men went no further, but returned backe, and in coming home went to see the Island of Edelano, situated in the midst of the river, as faire a place as any that may be seen through the world, for, in the space of three leagues that it may contain in length and breadth, a man may see an exceeding rich country and marvellously peopled. At the coming out of the village of Edelano to go unto the river's side, a man must pass through an alley about three hundred paces long and fifty paces broad, on both sides whereof great trees are planted ; the boughs thereof are tied like an arch, and meet together so artificially, that a man would think that it were an arbor made of purpose, as fair, I say, as any in all Chris- tendom, although it be altogether natural." * Sometimes called Le Moyne. lo6 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. They had expected succor from France, by the end of April, 1545, at the uttermost, and had not been prudent in the saving of their provisions. They had latterly lived upon the provisions they obtained from the Indians, but as spring and summer came on they began to suffer from want, and, the season wearing on, they despaired of re- ceiving help from home, and resolved to leave the country so soon as they could repair their vessels, or build another. They were now in great straits to keep from starvation, and besought the Indians to furnish them. But the natives now became very exacting, and soon exhausted the store of articles suitable for presents which the French had with them. At last, finding themselves unable to procure of the savages provisions to victual their vessels, they determined to abandon the peaceful policy which they had hitherto pursued towards the Indians, and, by capturing one of the leading chiefs, force a large amount of provisions for his ransom. They thereupon seized Olata Utina, a great chief, and held him prisoner, but they failed to procure the ex- pected ransom, and embittered the Indians fruitlessly. Afterwards they obtained some relief from the new corn in he Indian fields near them, and the fair queen, before spoken of, gave them a liberal quantity. In the mean time they pushed forward with all diligence their prepara- tions for leaving. In August there appeared on the coast four vessels, being the fleet of Sir John Hawkins, returning from an ex- pedition to the Spanish Main. They came in for a supply of water, and were received and entertained by Laudon- niere with the best he had, even, he says, ''killing certain sheep and poultry which he had hitherto carefully preserved to stock the country withal." Sir John, seeing the distress they were in, generously of- fered to transport them all back to France, which Laudon-' HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 107 niere declined, because, he says, he was "in doubt upon what occasion he made so large an offer, for I knew not how the case stood between the French and English ; and though he promised me, on his faith, to put me on land, in France, before he would touch England, yet I stood in doubt least he should attempt somewhat in Florida in the name of his mistress. Therefore I flatly refused his offer. ' ' The garrison, however, hearing of the offer made by the English general, had no such scruples, and said they would go, unless he made some arrangement for their departure. Laudonniere finally effected the purchase of the smallest of the English vessels. The English commander acted very handsomely, leaving the French to put their own valuation upon the vessel, who judged it worth seven hundred crowns. In pay- ment of this sum, he delivered them four pieces of artillery, one thousand of iron, and one thousand of powder. Seeing the small amount of provisions the French had on hand. Sir John most generously supplied them with twenty barrels of meal, five pipes of beans, a hogshead of salt, one hundred pounds of wax, to make candles with ; forasmuch, as it is said, he saw the French soldiers were barefoot, he took compassion upon them and gave them fifty pairs of shoes ; besides this, he made presents to all the officers. As soon as Sir John had sailed, they made all diligence to get their stores ready for their departure, and by the 15 th of August they had everything ready, and awaited fair winds. It was with no pleasant feelings they prepared to leave a country to which they seemed to have become much at- tached. Laudonniere says, " There was none of us to whom it was not an extreme grief to leave a country wherein we had endured so great travails and necessities, to discover that which we must forsake through our own countryman's fault. I leave it your cogitation to think how near it went lo our hearts to leave a place abounding in riches, as we lo8 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. were thoroughly enformed thereof in coming whereunto, and doing service unto our prince, we left our own country, wives, children, parents, and friends, and passed the perils of the sea, and were therein arrived, as in a plentiful trea- sure of all our hearts' desire." The question naturally suggests itself, how did it happen that, in a country abounding in the means of subsistence, this colony should have been reduced to such distress? Theirs was no peculiar case; in every instance of an at- tempt at settlement withm the limits of the United States the same thing occurred : after they had eaten up what they had brought with them and what they could ob- tain of the Indians, they invariably starved. They were generally either soldiers, or persons not accustomed to labor, and their idea of obtaining the means of subsistence was the commissary's store, or the market ; the labor of their own hands in the field they never looked to, and did not seem to know how to avail themselves of the resources of hunting and fishing. At this very period the river which ran by Fort Caroline abounded in fish and oysters, and, when literally starving, the Indians caught fish before their eyes, and demanded such prices as they chose. The example of the Indian fields of maize was before them, and yet they planted not a seed. In interesting juxtaposition with Laudonniere's own ac- count of his troubles, and of the visit of the English fleet, we have the account of this visit from one of Sir John Hawkins's expedition, who, after speaking of the condi- tion in which he found the French, says : ^'Notwithstanding the great want that the Frenchmen had, the ground doth yield victuals sufficient, if they would have taken pains to get the same ; but they, being soldiers, desired to live by the sweat of other men's brows. The ground yieldeth naturally grapes in great store, for in the time the French- HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 109 men were there, they made twenty hogsheads of wine. Also it yieldeth roots, passing good; deeres marvellous good, with divers others beasts and fowl serviceable to the use of man. There be things wherewith a man may live, having maize wherewith to make bread, for maize maketh good savory bread and cakes, as fine as flour; also it maketh good meale, beaten and sodden with water, and eateth like pap wherewith we feed children, a good drink, nourishable, which the French did use to drink of in the morning, and it assuageth their thirst, so that they had no neede to drink all the day after.* *'The commodities of this land are more than are yet known to any man ; for besides the land itself, whereof there is more than any Christian king is able to inhabit, it flourisheth with meadow pasture-ground, with woods of cedar and Cyprus, and other sorts, as better cannot be in the world. They have for apothecary, herbs, roots, and gums great store, as storax liquida, turpentine, gum myrrhe, and frankincense. ''Of beasts in the country, besides deer, foxes, hares, pole-cats, conies, ounces, and leopards, I am not able cer- tainly to say, but it is thought that there are lions and tigers, as well as unicorns ; lions especially. Also venom- ous beasts, such as crocodiles, whereof there is a great * " The Floridians, when they travel, have a kind of herbe dried, who, with a cane, and earthen cup in the end with fire and the dried herbs put together, doe suck throu a cane the smoke thereof, which smoke satisfieth their hunger, and therewith they live four or five days without meate or drinke ; and this all the Frenchmen used for this pur- pose; yet doe they hold, withal, that it causeth them to reject from their stomachs, and spit out water and phlegm." This wonderful weed, or dried herb, was, of course, tobacco; al- though, from a defect in the quality, probably, it does not now " keepe us from hunger three or four days at a time." 10 no HISTORY OF FLORIDA. abundance ; adders of great bigness, whereof our men killed some a yard and a half long. On these adders" (rattlesnakes, probably) ''the Frenchmen did feed, to no little admiration of us, and affirmed the same to be a deli- cate meat," A tolerably accurate description of the dif- ferent kinds of fish and birds is given, and the writer seems to have been particularly struck with the advantages of the country for raising cattle. "The houses of the Indians," he says, ''are not many together, for in one house an hun- dred of them do lodge, they being made much like a great barn, and in strength not inferior to ours, for they have stanchions and rafters of whole trees, and are covered with palmetto leaves, having no place divided but one small room for their king and queen. In the midst of this house is a hearth, where they make great fires all night, and they sleep upon certain pieces of wood, hewn in for the bowing of their backs, and another place made high for their heads." CHAPTER VIII. French Expedition of Ribaut to relieve Fort Caroline — Spanish Expe- dition of Menendez to expel the Huguenots — Capture of Fort Caroline by Menendez, and Massacre of the Garrison. 1565 The settlement at Fort Caroline, although neglected by France, had not been forgotten by its illustrious patron ; but the civil commotions which distracted the country had rendered it impossible to forward the succors which were so much needed. Reports had reached France from the little colony, bearing unfavorably upon Laudonniere, set on foot by those who had been in the conspiracy against him. Among other things, they had accused him of playing the viceroy, of living in great state, and of aggrandizing him- self. As soon as the admiral was enabled to devote his attention to the subject, an expedition of considerable magnitude was set on foot, to be under the command of Captain Ribaut, who had been in command in the first voyage. A fleet of seven vessels, some of considerable size, was provided, and ample provision made for a per- manent occupation of the country. Some six hundred and fifty persons were embarked, and among the adventurers were representatives from many of the first families of France. By some means, and, as is charged by many, in accordance with direct information from the French court, the expedition of Ribaut destined to succor and insure the permanent establishment of the French Huguenots in (III) 112 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. America was made known to Philip II. There was at the Spanish court at that period, unemployed, a man of considerable distinction, Menendez by name, who had acquired a high reputation by the success of many naval expeditions in which he had been engaged. He had shortly before learned that a son who had sailed from Mexico on board a treasure-fleet bound for Spain, which had been wrecked upon the coast of Florida, was a cap- tive among the savage tribes who inhabited its shores. This man, soured by some difficulties and annoyances he had encountered, sorrowing over a favorite son whose fate presented itself to his imagination as worse than death, and largely imbued with the spirit of the military propa- gation of the faith, was led to seek the command of an expedition to Florida. His own principal tliought was undoubtedly the recovery of his son, but the leading con- sideration he placed before the king was the salvation of the souls of the tribes of Florida. The coast of Florida had already acquired a bad reputation, on account of the numerous shipwrecks which had occurred there, and it was thought that a more thorough examination and acquaintance with its shores, harbors, currents, and sound- ings would enable such disasters to be avoided for the future. The Spanish crown had long claimed an exclusive right to Florida, and under this designation included all of the country in North America which had been or might be discovered. The existence of the settlement made in 1564 by the French, on the St. John's River, must have been well known to the Spanish court, and would naturally have been considered an aggression upon their rights, although they had never been able themselves to occupy or take possession of any portion of the immense country claimed by them. It added not a little, undoubtedly, to their sensi- HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 113 tiveness relative to this settlement, that it was made by the Huguenots of France, who were regarded by the Spaniards as the most detestable of the human race and beyond the pale of humanity. In view of the misfortunes which had attended every expedition to the shores of Florida, it seems as though it would have been a hopeless effort to procure the means or the men for another enterprise in that direction, and so undoubtedly it would have been, but for the character of the man who undertook it and the religious motives which urged him, and which have so often proved that no stronger passion can control the human heart than religious zeal, even among those who conform to none of the obligations of a religious life. Although the sad fate of Narvaez's and De Soto's expedi- tions must have been fresh in their minds, yet the name of Florida had not lost its charm, and the appeal of Menendez was responded to by greater numbers than he could provide transportation for. The number to be furnished at the ex- pense of the crown was to have been five hundred men-at- arms, but only two hundred and forty-nine of the force were actually provided. Notwithstanding this, a force amounting to two thousand six hundred persons were embarked on board of thirty-four vessels of various sizes, the largest of which was of near one thousand tons, and carried over one thousand persons, — a large vessel and a very large complement of passengers for that day. Menendez had expended in the equipment of the expedition nearly a mil- lion of ducats, the crown having provided but a single ship, and had embarked in the expedition all of his own means and all that he could obtain either by loan or gift from his friends. Although he had made the religious welfare of the natives of Florida the principal object of his mission in his interviews with the king, the number of the 10* 114 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. clerical party provided was not commensurate with so ex- tensive a work, — twenty-six priests, brothers, and monks being the entire number mentioned out of the two thousand six hundred and fifty who embarked. The agreement with the king had authorized Menendez to take with him five hundred slaves, the third part to be men for his own service and that of his people, in order that he might build, settle, and cultivate Florida with more facility, and plant corn and put up sugar- works ; but so great was the anxiety of the people to accompany him, it is said, that he found it unneces- sary to carry with him the five hundred slaves. The expedition of Ribaut, which set sail from Dieppe on the 23d of May, 1565, consisted of five hundred men, besides some families of artisans who accompanied the ex- pedition ; the fleet numbered seven sail, some of which must have been of considerable size, as four of the vessels were obliged to anchor outside the bar of the river May, now known as the St. John's. For nearly a month after their getting to sea they were detained on the coasts of France by contrary winds, and, when fairly on their course, were two months in reaching Florida. Making first one of the Bahamas, they came upon the coast of Florida north of Cape Canaveral, and probably first landed at Mosquito, where they found a Spaniard, who had been wrecked upon the coast twenty years before, and who informed them, upon the report of the natives, that Laudonniere's colony was about fifty leagues northward. Coasting along, they sounded the bar of the River of Dolphins, at St. Augustine, and, proceeding farther north, entered the river May (St. John's) on the 29th of August, 1565. The three smaller vessels only were able to enter the river, as has been already stated. For several days they were employed in landing the stores and provisions in- tended for the colony, and disembarking the most of the HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 115 people, leaving on board the vessels outside the bar but little more than their ordinary crew. Menendez had pushed forward his preparations with the greatest vigor, and was extremely anxious to reach Florida before the French should be enabled to fortify and intrench themselves. He made all possible dispatch, and, leaving a portion of his fleet to follow after him, set sail from Cadiz on the ist of July, 1565, with about two-thirds of the whole number who were to join in the expedition. A severe tempest which they encountered after leaving the Canaries wrecked and dispersed a portion of the fleet, so that when the general arrived at Porto Rico, on the 9th of Au- gust, he had but a third part of his expedition under his command. He learned here that a dispatch-vessel, sent with orders to him from Spain, had been intercepted by the French, and intelligence of his movements probably con- veyed to the French colony in Florida. Menendez at once decided to pursue his voyage with all expedition, without awaiting the coming up of his other vessels ; and, refitting as well as he was able, he sailed northward, by an untried route, among the Lucayan Islands, and on the 28th of August, being the day devoted in the calendar of the Roman Church to the memory of St. Augustine, they came in sight of Florida and landed on her coast. Upon the same day the French fleet, under Ribaut, had cast anchor at the mouth of the St. John's River, — the two hos- tile fleets being thus within fifty miles of each other, and landing simultaneously at two neighboring points, each unconscious of the proximity of the other. It adds not a little interest to this concurrence of events to recall the fact that on the 4th of the same month the English fleet, under the celebrated Sir John Hawkins, had anchored and landed at the St. John's, thus bringing into close proximity the fleets of the then three great maritime it6 history of FLORIDA. powers; although upon all the great continent lying north of the Gulf of Mexico neither of them possessed a single foot of ground, except that occupied by the feeble detach- ment of the French at Fort Caroline, which was preparing to return to France on the very day that Ribaut's fleet ap- peared. Another day's detention, and Ribaut probably might not have landed to occupy the deserted fort. Me- nendez would have found no heretical colony to extirpate, and would probably not then have remained, and the first chapter of the colonization and permanent settlement might have been deferred for a long period. The Spaniards, on landing, had learned from the Indians that the French were at twenty leagues' distance to the north, and, re-em- barking eight leagues beyond, they arrived at the harbor of St. Augustine, to which, in honor of the day upon which they arrived on the coast, they gave the name which it has now borne for nearly three hundred years. Again coasting northward, on the 4th of September they de- scried the four large vessels of the French anchored at the mouth of the St. John's River. A council of war was now held by the Spanish captains, and the opinions of a majority were in favor of withdraw- ing to Hispaniola and preparing a more powerful expedi- tion to attack the French in the spring. The Adelantado could not, however, brook this timid counsel, and declared his intention of making an attack at once. Preparations were accordingly made, and about daybreak the Spanish vessels began to move up towards the French trans- ports. These, distrusting the intentions of the Spaniards, hoisted sail and prepared to slip their cables. Confirmed in their suspicions by the actions of the Spaniards, the officers of Ribaut's fleet put to sea, and the Spaniards, per- ceiving this, fired upon them from their heavy guns, at too great a distance, however, to effect any injury. Pursuit was HISTORY OF FLORIDA. ny kept up all day, but they were unable to overtake the French vessels, and at nightfall they abandoned the pur- suit, sailed to the southward, and cast anchor in the river Seloy, called by the French the River of Dolphins, now known as the port of St. Augustine, whither they were followed at a distance by one of the French vessels, in order to observe their further movements. There they were seen to disembark their forces, victuals, and muni- tions, three of their vessels entering the harbor and three remaining outside. Having made a reconnoissance, the French vessel returned, and reported to Ribaut that the Spaniards had landed and commenced fortifying them- selves. That zealous officer at once conceived the idea of surprising them, and by the capture of their ships so far disabling them as to prevent any molestation of his colony on their part. Calling a council of his officers, he laid his views before them. Laudonniere and his other captains re- monstrated against his enterprise, deeming it altogether too hazardous and uncertain in its results — Laudonniere, by his own account, especially opposing it because of the severe gales which prevailed along the coast at that season of the year. But to all of these objections Ribaut replied that he was instructed not to allow his colony to be encroached upon, and that the landing and fortifications commenced by the Spaniards indicated that hostile intentions were entertained. He accordingly, on the 8th of September, re-embarked all of his effective force, and with them most of the able- bodied men of Laudonniere, to the number of thirty-eight, leaving him an invalid force with which to defend Fort Caroline. Ribaut did not anticipate an absence of more than two days, as the Spaniards were within fifteen leagues of him. He was, however, by a fatal mischance, two days too early or too late, for, sailing on the loth of September, n8 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. on that very day he encountered a terrible tempest, which drove him, helpless to resist, far down the coast. In the mean time, his rival, Menendez, was influenced by similar wishes to act promptly, and discussed with his captains an expedition by land to attack the Huguenots in their fort. His own force was estimated at six hundred, and he sup- posed the French garrison to be about the same number — perhaps a little stronger. Having secured guides, Menen- dez determined, against the advice of his officers, to under- take the expedition. The storm which now raged along the coast, accompanied with a deluge of rain, seemed to favor his design of surprising the French at a time and by a mode of attack which they could hardly anticipate. He felt almost confident, however, that the French fleet was at sea, and that even if it escaped shipwreck it would be hardly possible for it to regain the harbor for several days. On the 17th of September, Menendez set out at the head of five hundred men, to pursue a most difficult march over an almost impassable country, guided by two Indian chiefs who were enemies to the French. Their march was much impeded by the effects of the heavy rains, which had over- flowed the streams and made the marshes almost impassa- ble. They were three days in reaching the vicinity of Fort Caroline, and during the whole march were exposed to heavy rains. Many of the ofiEicers and men wished to return, and much dissatisfaction was felt, but the character and energy of their leader restrained them from deserting him. In the mean time, Laudonniere had done his best to repair the injuries to his works which had been made preparatory to their abandonment, and endeavored to infuse some spirit into and restore some order to his invalid garrison. He was himself very ill, and had only sixteen or seventeen well men in the fort. Of Ribaut's men, whom he had left be- hind, there were some who had never drawn a sword — four HISTORY OF FLORIDA. up being boys who kept Ribaut's dogs; one cook; a car- penter, Nicholas Chaleux, who wrote an account of his escape ; a beer-brewer ; an old cross-bow maker ; two shoe- makers; four or five men who had wives; a player on the virginals — in all, about fourscore and five or six, counting lackeys and women and children. Two captains of the watch were appointed, and a strict guard was kept up for several days. But the terrible tempest which prevailed relaxed their vigilance, they thinking it absurd to expect an at- tack at such a time. The night of the 19th of September was very stormy, and at dawn the sentinels were with- drawn under shelter, and the officer of the watch himself retired to his quarters. At break of day the forces of Menendez reached the fort, and commenced the attack. A sudden rush, a quick alarm, a surprise, a feeble resistance by a bewildered garrison, and the fort was taken. Laudonniere, by his own account, tried to rally his men, and fought in person, as long as there was hope ; but, finding himself recognized and pur- sued, he fled to the neighboring forest, and there fell in with other fugitives from the fort. With much difficulty they made their way through the sedge that lined the banks of the river, and, reaching some vessels that lay at its mouth, they escaped. In the first assault on the fort, many of the garrison were cut down, without regard to age or sex; a statement which may well be believed, in view of the more deliberate cruelty afterwards practiced. When' we recall in how many instances religious rancor has carried men into the extremes of cruelty, it will not seem incredi- ble that even women and children fell victims to the fero- cious soldiery who accompanied Menendez. The Spanish account of the massacre admits that an indiscriminate slaughter took place until checked by an order from Me- nendez that no woman, child, or cripple, under the age of I20 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. fifteen, should be injured, — by which it is said that seventy pers6ns were saved. "The rest were killed." Some of the prisoners were hung upon the neighboring trees, and this inscription placed over them, — ''No por Franceses, sino porLuteranos." ("Not as Frenchmen, but as Lutherans.") Menendez changed the name of the fort to San Mateo, in honor of the apostle whose festival occurred on the day subsequent to its capture. The Spaniards also changed the name of the river May to San Mateo. Menendez repaired the fort, and made such arrangements as were necessary to fortify the post against an attack should Ribaut return ; garrisoning it with three hundred men-at-arms under Gon- zalez de Villareal. Before leaving, he had crosses erected in prominent situations, and marked out the site of a church, to be built of the timber which Laudonniere had prepared for building vessels. Taking a small number of his men with him, he returned to St. Augustine, finding even greater difficulty than before in crossing the swamps and creeks. His arrival at St. Augustine was signalized by great rejoicings, and a solemn mass was celebrated, and a Te Deum sung, in commemo- ration of the victory. CHAPTER IX. Shipwreck and Massacre of Ribaut and his Followers. 1565. Ribaut' s unfortunate vessels, which had encountered the gale the night after leaving port, were driven down the coast at the mercy of the storm, which increased in vio- lence, and, after ineffectual efforts to keep out to sea, they were driven ashore between Matanzas and Mosquito Inlet. Such is the character of the shelvy beach on the eastern coast of Florida that but little danger to life attends a ship- wreck there. The low and sandy shore is devoid of rocks, and vessels are ofttimes driven high upon the land, and, at the fall of the tide, one may pass almost dry-shod from the stranded ship. But one person was lost from Ribaut' s ves- sels, a Captain La Grange, who had opposed the expedi- tion, and only at the last moment consented to share the perils of which he was the first victim. Of the occurrence of this fatal expedition of Ribaut we have no account from his own party, except that given by Le Moyne, as having been related to him by a sailor, a native of Dieppe, who escaped the massacre, having been left for dead. There are two detailed Spanish accounts extant, emanating from chaplains attached to Menendez's colony. The information of the disaster that had befallen Ribaut's vessels was brought to St. Augustine by the Indians, who gave Menendez to understand, by signs, that a large num- ber of persons were at an inlet, four leagues distant, which II ( 121 ) 1 2 2 HI ST OR Y OF FL OR ID A. they were unable to cross. Menendez at once set out with a party of his men, and, arriving the same evening at Ma- tanzas Inlet, he saw in the morning, on the opposite side of the inlet, quite a number of men with standards, one of whom swam across to Menendez and told him they were a portion of the French forces under Ribaut, whose vessels had all been wrecked, twenty leagues distant from each other, along the coast below. The first question of Menendez was, "Are they Catholics or Lutherans?" The reply was, " They are all of the New Sect," a fact known, of course, to Menendez; but the question was intended to justify the course he intended to pursue towards them. He allowed the man to return to his comrades, with a guarantee of protection for his captain and four or five of his followers, should they choose to cross over. The captain and four men came across, and held an interview with Menendez. The Spanish chaplain, De Solis, gives a minute account of the conversation, and says that the French captain informed Menendez that he was the commander of one of the vessels which had been wrecked ; that he desired a boat to cross this river and one four leagues farther on, at St. Augustine, in order to reach the fort, twenty leagues beyond. To this Menendez replied at length, informing him of the capture of Fort Caroline and the slaughter of the garrison. The captain then desired to be furnished with a pilot and vessels to carry them to France, as there was no war existing be- tween their respective sovereigns, who were friends and brothers. Menendez thereupon replied that this was true, and as Catholics or friends he would favor them, and feel that he was serving both kings in doing so ; but as for those of the new sect, he considered them enemies, and would wage war upon them with fire and sword, and this he in- tended to do to all such as should come into those seas or countries where jtie governed as viceroy and captain-gen- HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 123 eral for his sovereign ; that he had come to plant the Holy Evangelist in this land, in order tha,t the savages might be enlightened and brought to the knowledge of the Holy Catholic Faith of ('hrist our Lord, as declared by the Roman Church {^' la Iglesia Romana''), and that if they desired to surrender their standards and arms, and yield themselves to his mercy, they could do so, ''in order that he might do to them what should be directed him by the grace of God.'"^' This is the precise language attributed to Menendez by De Solis; and as in the course of his narrative he refers to charges of cruelty made at the time, and as he was writing an apology for the acts of his brother-in-law, it is not to be doubted that he would give such a statement of the trans- actions as would be most favorable to Menendez. The language attributed to Menendez by De Solis was certainly evasive, and by his allusion to their trusting to his mercy, and his intention of following divine guidance, the French were naturally deceived, as it seems very evident he in- tended they should be, into yielding themselves as prisoners into his hands. The French captain returned to his men, and reported the result of his conference with the Spanish leader. Among Ribaut's men were many of wealth and noble birth, who were willing to pay as much as fifty thou- sand ducats as a ransom for their lives; and the offer was made to Menendez, but he refused, in an evasive manner, to accept it. The French finally agreed to surrender their standards and all their arms, and cast themselves upon the clemency of Menendez. They were brought over ten at a time, and when the first party reached the shore, Menen- dez said to them, "As I have but a few men, and you are * " Para que il haga de ellos lo que Dios le diere de gracia." — Ensayo Cronologho, p. 86. 124 ITT STORY OF FLORTDA. numerous, it will be easy for you to revenge yourselves upon us for the destruction of your fort and people : it is necessary, therefore, that you should march, with your hands tied behind you, four leagues from here, to my camp." To this the French assented, and they were marched behind a clump of trees, where they could not be seen by their comrades, and their hands were strongly secured be- hind them ; the same course being pursued with each suc- ceeding party that came over, to the number, it is said, of two hundred and eight persons. Upon being questioned, eight of their number declared themselves to be Catholics, and were sent in a boat to St. Augustine ; the others were ordered to march in that direction by land, probably along the beach of Anastasia Island; and orders were given by Menendez to the officers in charge of them, that when they reached a designated spot in the path, the prisoners should be killed.* The order was carried out, and Menendez and his men returned to St. Augustine the same night. The next day Menendez was informed by the same Indians who had brought the first report that a much larger party of Christians were at the same place. Menendez supposed that this must be Ribaut himself, and, taking one hundred and fifty soldiers with him, marched to the spot, where he saw, on the opposite bank, a considerable force, with stand- ards displayed, who had constructed a raft for the purpose of crossing, but found much difficulty in managing it on account of the strength of the tide. One of the party had been allowed to swim over and obtain a boat, in which the sergeant-major crossed. Menendez informed this officer that he had destroyed the French fort and all its garrison, as well as a portion of those who had been shipwrecked, and caused the bodies of those slain on the previous day * Barcia, Ensayo Cronologico. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 1 25 to be pointed out to him. He directed the sergeant-major to guarantee Ribaut safe conduct, if he chose to come over and confer with him. Ribaut accordingly crossed with eight of his officers, held a long conference with the Spanish general, and was handsomely entertained by him. Menendez repeated to Ribaut the story of the capture of Fort Caro- line, and he was allowed to converse with one of the gar- rison who accompanied Menendez. He, too, was shown the bodies of his cruelly murdered men. To Ribaut' s offer of a very large amount for the ransom of himself and party, Menendez turned a deaf ear, and would give no assurance as to the treatment he would re- ceive. Ribaut returned to consult with his officers and men, and the next morning they gave themselves up as prisoners, to the number of one hundred and fifty, with all their arms, standards, etc. Two hundred of his party re- fused to surrender, and withdrew during the night. Ribaut and his comrades were carried across in parties of ten, as upon the former occasion, and the same pretense was urged to induce them to have their hands tied behind them. Ribaut himself, with the philosophy of a stoic and the firmness of a Christian, when he saw the fate that awaited him, began to sing the psalm Domme, memento met, and, that finished, he said, ''From earth we came, and to the earth we must return; that twenty years of life, more or less, did not matter, and the Adelantado might do unto them what he wished." One would suppose that the noble. Christian, and serene deportment of Ribaut would have touched the chivalry of Menendez' s nature, and that the spectacle of a gentleman, his equal in rank, reduced by shipwreck to suffering and helplessness, appealing to his generosity for aid and to his humanity for life, helpless, powerless, and prostrate, would have called forth some spark of sympathy from a heart yet II* 126 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. sore under the loss of a son whom he believed to have been cast, like Ribaiit, upon a savage coast, and who doubtless, like him, was bound by the chains of his ene- mies. But, alas! Menendez's was a nature full of deadly hatred, and it was now roused almost to a frenzy towards the unfortunate Frenchman. His apologist closes the drama with these words : E iitandando el Adelantado los matasen (and the Adelantado directed them to be killed). The entire number, one hundred and fifty, were massacred at the same spot and in the same manner as their comrades who had gone before them. The account given by the Dieppe sailor of the death of Ribaut is somewhat different. He says that, after the shipwreck, Ribaut sent a boat to the river May, and upon its arrival they discovered the Spanish flag floating over Fort Caroline. The messenger immediately returned and informed Ribaut, who was overwhelmed with distress at the intelligence, and sent a second time, directing his messenger to communicate with the Spaniards and find out what had become of the French garrison. Meeting some Spaniards, they were informed by them that the Spanish general, a most humane man, had sent all of the French garrison in a large vessel to France, well pro- visioned and equipped, and that he would treat Ribaut and his followers with like humanity. Upon this intelligence, Ribaut himself, distrustful of the Spanish clemency, called a council of his officers. Being on the verge of starvation, and hopeless of relief from any quarter, a majority were in favor of yielding themselves up to Menendez, and an envoy, one La Caille, was sent to obtain terms. He was taken before the Spanish commander, who pledged his faith by the most solemn assurances, by religious invoca- tions and sacred oaths in the presence of his followers, and promised, without fraud, faithfully, and as a true man, that HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 127 he would spare the lives of Ribaut and of all his people. La Caille returned with these assurances, which some received with great joy, while to others they carried but little hope. Yet all consented, in their desperation, to surrender, and came to the river, which was near the fort. Ribaut and Ottigny alone were taken into the fort. Here appearances soon indicated the fate that awaited them. Ribaut demanded an audience with Menendez, and Ottigny indignantly re- quired a pledge of safety. To Ribaut no reply was given, and Ottigny received only contemptuous laughter. Ribaut again demanded to see Menendez, when a soldier asked him if he was not Ribaut, the French commander. He replied, ''Yes." Then said the soldier, "When you issue orders to your men, do you not expect obedience?" "Certainly," replied Ribaut. "Thus," said the soldier, "do I desire to obey my commander. I have been directed to kill you." And thereupon he plunged his dagger to the heart of Ribaut, and immediately after Ottigny fell by the same hand. The rest were killed outside the fort, three musicians alone being spared.* The author of this account, whose name is not given by Le Moyne, was left for dead, but his wounds were not mortal, and he escaped during the night to the Indians, with whom he remained some months, but was finally given up to Menendez, who was doubtless not aware of his having belonged to Ribaut' s party, and sent him to Havana, and thence to Spain ; but on this voyage he was released by a French vessel, and so reached France. f Other accounts, cotemporaneous with the event, say that Ribaut was quartered and his dissevered body placed on the four angles of the fort, and that his beard was sent as a * De Bry, Brevis Narratio — Secunda Pars, Florida, p. 29. f This sailor and another, named Pompierre, mentioned in Ensayo Cronologico, p. 135. 128 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. trophy to Spain — a statement indignantly denied by Spanish authorities. Besides this account, we find in De Bry a statement given in a supplicatory letter addressed to Charles IX., offered in the name of the widows, orphans, and rela- tives of those who were slaughtered by the Spaniards in this expedition."^ This letter states that Menendez gave them his faith that if they would surrender they should receive no injury, but would be forwarded with vessels and provisions to enable them to return to France, but that they were tied, and led after the manner of brute beasts to the castle, where they were received with taunts and jeering mockery by the Spanish soldiers, subjected to abuse and insults, and then most cruelly massacred ; that Ribaut, after being forced to witness the slaughter of his men, vainly appealing to the faith of Menendez, was struck down from behind, his body treated with the grossest in- dignity, his beard cut off and sent as a trophy to Spain, and his head quartered and stuck upon spears in the area of the fort. This letter, bearing date 1565, the same year in which the destruction of the Huguenot colony occurred, shows at least what were the accredited reports received in France. But these statements are denied by Spanish writers, whose representations of the course of Menendez, his pledges to Ribaut, and treatment of his body after he had been killed, are so utterly at variance that the his- torian has no mems of deciding upon facts, and can only state the probabilities of the case, which on this point lean in favor of the Spaniards, — divesting Menendez' s conduct of none of its enormity, but relieving the tragedy of some of the horrors with which the French records surround it. The atrocity of the deed struck all Europe with horror, * Brevis Narratio, Epis. Supp. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 329 even in that day; and the shocking story has been per- petuated over three hundred years, giving the name of Menendez a stain of infamy which time cannot wipe out. Of those who accompanied Ribaut, two hundred refused to surrender, and, withdrawing to the southward, made preparations to construct vessels with which they might leave the coast. Some twenty days afterwards a party of Indians came in, and informed Menendez that at a distance of eight days' journey southward, near Canaveral, the French were building a fort and a ship. Menendez, after getting part of the garrison from San Mateo, sent vessels by sea, and marched himself by land with three hundred men, to attack the French, who, on the approach of the Spaniards, fled to the woods. A messenger was sent out, offering them protection, and telling them that they should have the same treatment as Spaniards if they would come in. One hundred and fifty surrendered, and, it is said, received kind treatment. Twenty others sent word -that they would rather be devoured by the Indians than sur- render to the Spaniards."^ The fort was destroyed, the vessel burnt, and the cannon spiked. A small garrison was left at a fort the Spaniards built and called St. Lucia. The names of Canaveral and St. Lucia are still found on the eastern coast of Florida. The Spanish forces returned to St. Augustine accom- panied by their French prisoners, who were incorporated into the colony. Some of them eventually returned to France; others remained, renouncing their faith and ac- cepting that of their captors. * The subsequent history of these twenty is unknown. Those who desire to follow in the path of their probable adventures will find in "The Lily and the Totem" an interesting story, of which D'Erlach and his companions are the heroes. 130 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. Let us now return to Laudonniere and the few survivors of the massacre at Fort Caroline. There were two small vessels remaining to the French, at the mouth of the river, and some eighteen or twenty of the fugitives, with Laudonniere, were received on board. On the 25th of September, these two vessels put out to sea, one commanded by Laudonniere, the other by Jean Ribaut, the son of the admiral. After a long voyage, and much suffering, Laudonniere arrived on the coast of Wales about the middle of November. He here left his vessel, and re- turned to France, where he was badly received by the court, and died in obscurity. The other vessel, under Cap- tain Ribaut, had proceeded prosperously some five hundred leagues, when they fell in with a Spanish vessel, with which they had a severe encounter. The French claim the vic- tory, having lost but one man, their cook ; but they were unable to secure their prize. Pursuing their voyage, they reached Rochelle, where they were most kindly received and entertained. Thus ended the efforts of the, French to establish a colony on the southern coast of America. The Lilies of France had been trampled in the dust, and the flag of Spain waved over St. Augustine, San Mateo, and San Lucia. ^ The destruction of the Huguenots excited the utmost gratification at the court of Spain; and the conduct of Menendez was approved and commended by his Catholic * Laudonniere, after his return to France, wrote an account of the attempted settlement by the French, under the title of " L'Histoire des trois Voyages des Frangois en la Floride," which was published in the year 1586, by M. Basanier, to which was added a relation of a fourth voyage, by De Gourgues. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 13 Majesty, the bigoted Philip 11.,* and even drew forth a letter of gratitude from the pontiff, Pius V.f *"0f the great success that has attended your enterprise we have the most entire satisfaction ; and as to the retribution you have visited upon the Lutheran pirates who sought to occupy the country, and to fortify themselves there in order to disseminate in it their wicked creed, and to prosecute there those wrongs and robberies which they have done, and were doing, against God's service and my own, we be- lieve that you did it with every justification and propriety, and we con- sider ourselves to have been well served in your so doing." — Ensayo Cronologico, p. 115. f Letter of St. Pius V. to Pedro Menendez. " To our beloved son and nobleman, Pedro Menendez Aviles, Vice- roy in the Province of Florida, in the Indies : Beloved son and noble- man, Grace and Benediction of our Lord be with you, Amen. — We greatly rejoice that our much-beloved, dear son in Christ, Philip, the most Catholic King, had appointed and honored you by the govern- ment of Florida, making you Adelantado of the country ; for we had received such accounts of your person, and the excellencies of your virtues, your worth and dignity were so satisfactorily spoken of, that we believed, without doubt, that you would not only fulfill faithfully, and with care and diligence, the orders and instructions which had been delivered to you by so catholic a king ; but we also fully trusted that you would with discretion do all that was requisite, and see car- ried forward the extension of our Holy Catholic Faith, and the gaining of souls for God. I would that you should well understand that the Indians should be governed in good faith and prudently, that those who may be weak in the faith, being newly converted, be strength- ened and confirmed ; and the idolaters may be converted and receive the faith of Christ, that the first may praise God, knowing the benefits of his divine mercy, and the others who are yet infidels, by the ex- ample and imitation of those who are already freed from blindness, may be led to the knowledge of the Faith. But there is no one thing that is more important for the conversion of the Indian idolaters, than to endeavor by every means that they shall not be scandalized by the vices and bad habits of those who pass from our Western shores to those parts. This is the key of this holy enterprise, in which are in- 132 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. The French court seem to have received the news of the destruction of their colony and the atrocious massacre of their countrymen with perfect indifference. This is believed to have arisen from the religious animosities that existed at that period, and which destroyed all sympathy between those of different faith. The sufferings of the Huguenots excited no pity in the hearts of the opposite party, to which the court of Charles IX. belonged. This must have excited great indignation among the people, and particularly among the Huguenots. The narratives of the survivors were published, and the widows and orphans of the slain sent up a memorial to the king, calling upon him for a speedy revenge upon the Spaniards for the acts of Menendez ; but his Majesty made no response, and it was left to private individuals to resent the indignities to the flag and honor of France, and to avenge the wrongs of her people. eluded all things requisite. Well understand, most noble man, that I declare to you that a great opportunity is offered to you in the carry- ing out and management of these matters, which shall redound on the one hand to the service of God, and on the other to the increase of the dignity of your king, esteemed of men, as well as loved and rewarded by God. Wherefore, we give you our Paternal and Apostolic Bene- diction, We seek and charge you to give entire faith to our brother, the Archbishop of Rossini, who in our name will signify our wishes in more ample words. " Given in Rome, at St. Peter's, with the ring of the Fisherman, the 1st of August, 1569; the 3d year of our Pontificate." CHAPTER X. Situation of Matters at St. Augustine, and Explorations made by Menendez. 1566— 1567. One purpose of the expedition of Menendez was now accomplished. He had destroyed the French colony, and, for the present, at least, put an end to the efforts of that much-despised sect, the Lutheran, to establish itself in the New World. He needed now to strengthen his own posi- tion, and guard against any attempts the French might make to reoccupy the country which he was so anxious to secure to the Spanish crown. Unlike those who had pre- ceded him, Menendez had, by accident and good fortune, placed his settlement at a peculiarly favorable point. The harbor, while affording ample accommodation for vessels bringing in supplies for the garrison, was inaccessible to those of a larger class, and he was thus effectually protected from the attack of any hostile fleet, and, being on a penin- sula of moderate size, he could without much difficulty guard against attack from the Indians. A still more favor- able feature in the location of Menendez' s garrison was its great healthiness. Surrounded by salt marshes, free from all miasmatic exhalations, the balmy and pure sea-air pre- served the colonists almost wholly from those fatal diseases which had swept away so many of the first settlers on this continent. The old towQ of St. Augustine is built upon the precise 12 (133) 134 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. point that was occupied by Menendez. Its Indian name was Seloy, and the Spaniards found several habitations of considerable size which had been built by the natives. Satisfied that his position was a good one, Menendez pro- ceeded to fortify it. A fort was constructed of logs at a point commanding the approaches by sea and by land, and made as effective as the limited means at hand would permit. Other buildings were erected, and the forms of civil as well as military government were instituted in the province. Among the buildings erected was, undoubtedly, one in which the rites of the Roman Church were celebrated, and we may probably say without hesitation that the first Roman Catholic church on the Atlantic coast of North America was erected at St. Augustine. Menendez did all in his power to advance the cause of religion wherever he gained a footing in the New World, and never forgot this feature in the object of conquest. Having done all that he could -for the comfort and security of his garrison, Menendez proceeded to strengthen Fort Mateo, formerly Fort Caroline, and erected further detenses nearer the mouth of the river. In the mean time he had caused explorations to be made into the interior, but with what result we are not informed. The Spaniards were not left very long in undisturbed possession of their ground. The most powerful of the neighboring chiefs who were hostile to them soon came and waged war upon them. The soldiers of Menendez could not venture out of camp in any direction without being fired upon by their savage foe, and day after day, one after another of those who went out fishing or hunting, were cut ofi", until more than a hundred men and several officers fell victims. The Indians came up to the lines of the fort, and on one occasion succeeded in setting fire to a maga- zine and a great number of the thatched houses, causing HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 35 great destruction of property and provisions, and much suffering. Menendez finally determined to ask aid from the Governor of Cuba, but none was granted him, and he was obliged to send a vessel to Campeachy. Up to this time he had in vain sought tidings of his lost son, and, while waiting the return of the vessel from Campeachy, he determined to make search himself on the part of the coast where he was reported to have been shipwrecked, and for this purpose took a vessel and sailed along the coast of South Florida. Landing at Cape Florida, he found there, at an Indian settlement, seven Spaniards who had been, with many others, wrecked on the coast some twenty years before, these alone surviving the cruelty and hardships to which all had been subjected. From these Spaniards the Indians had obtained the name of Carlos, which we find given to one of the tribes of South Florida. Hearing that their king, the greatest king in all the world, was called Carlos, the Indians adopted the name in their royal family, thinking thereby to attain to greater power and honor. Releasing his countrymen from captivity, Menendez re- ceived them on board his vessel, and returned to St. Augus- tine, much depressed at the failure of all his efforts to recover his child. New trials and difficulties awaited him. Increasing distress at St. Augustine and Fort Mateo had created disaffection. Both garrisons mutinied, and de- termined to abandon the colony. The officers left in com- mand were unable to control the mutineers at St. Augustine, who seized one of the vessels and sailed for the West Indies. Of the garrison at Fort Mateo, consisting of one hundred and fifty persons, all but twenty-one mutinied, and de- termined to leave the country. A vessel of seventy tons arriving with provisions, they seized upon it, intending to sail to the West Indies or Peru. Menendez returned after the mutineers had embarked, 136 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. but had not yet sailed, and tried to arrest their movements and induce them to return to the garrison. But the greater number were obstinately determined to go, and of one hundred and thirty on board the vessel only thirty-five ex- pressed their willingness to remain. These the mutineers placed on board a bateau, but before they could reach St Augustine they were fired upon by the Indians, and most of them killed. Those who escaped turned their course, hoping to reach Cuba, but were wrecked on Cape Florida, and remained among the Indians of Carlos. Of the garrison at St. Augustine, over one hundred, at the head of whom was Juan de Vicente, forced Menendez to allow them to return to Porto Rico. Crowded upon a small vessel, they suffered much from heat and sickness, and during a long voyage many of them died. Relieved of the disaffected portion of his command, Menendez restored what order he could ; but his position was a most discouraging one, and under a less resolute leader the enterprise must have failed. Many of the de- serters returned to Spain, and, by their unfavorable reports of the country, greatly abated the interest which Menendez had excited, and prevented other colonists from joining him. The Adelantado now undertook a voyage to the north, visiting and making overtures of peace to the chiefs along the coast of Georgia and South Carolina, and is sup- posed to have sailed as far north as the Chesapeake. The points especially mentioned are Quale, Avista, and St. Helena. At St. Helena he left a number of his men to erect a fort; and also at Avista and all the Indian settlements which he visited he insisted upon building forts. Return- ing south, Menendez ascended the San Mateo River, visiting several Indian tribes on its borders. It seems to have been supposed by Menendez that this river commu- nicated with the sea at some point in the lower part of the HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 37 peninsula, and the Indians told him of a lake, called Miami, that communicated with the sea and with this river. They may have alluded to that extensive savanna now known as the Everglades, which is more or less covered with water at all times, and in seasons of heavy rains may have afforded access by light canoes to the head-waters of the St. John's. One of the outlets to the Everglades, near Cape Florida, is now known as the Miami River, and we find the same name given to two rivers of Ohio, from which circumstance we may suppose it probable that the original inhabitants of these States, Ohio and Florida, had a com- mon origin and language. Menendez revisited his posts at St. Helena, Avista, and Guale, and took measures for their secure establishment; and at these and all other places which he visited he caused the cross to be planted, and left religious teachers, who were to instruct the natives. He seems to have been gratified with the willingness of most of them to receive instruction and become Christians. One of the chiefs, however, Satourioura, always stood aloof, and showed no good feeling for the Spaniards, who, notwithstanding this fact, ventured to visit his tribe. On one occasion, seven- teen of them going out to the Indian houses, about two leagues from Fort Mateo, were fallen upon and eight of their number killed, the rest returning to camp covered with wounds. The distress for provisions continued, and Menendez was compelled to go himself to the West Indies to seek relief for his colonists. During his absence a fleet of fifteen sail arrived, bringing heavy reinforcements, which were greatly needed, for, in addition to the loss sustained at Fort Mateo and St. Au- gustine by mutiny and desertion, the greater part of the garrison left at St. Helena had deserted. Seizing upon a transport, they made sail for Cuba, but were cast upon that 12* 138 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. fatal coast of North Florida, and there fell in with the wrecked mutineers from Fort Mateo, who most gladly welcomed this accession to their numbers. About this time a vessel arrived off the coast with three Jesuit fathers of some distinction, — the first of their order who had visited this part of the New World, — all of the priests who had come over before being Franciscans. Father Martinez, having landed in a small boat, proceeded with the crew in search of the fort which was their point of destination, but, a sudden squall coming up, the vessel was driven out to sea, and the good priest and his boat's crew were left on shore defenseless and without provisions. Falling in with a party of Indians, they were directed to Fort Mateo ; but within half a league of the mouth of the river they were attacked by another party of savages, and Father Martinez and three of his men were slaughtered on the shores of St. George's Island. When Menendez returned from Cuba he was much en- couraged at finding the reinforcements which had arrived during his absence, and he proceeded at once to strengthen his garrisons at Fort Mateo and St. Helena. Leaving them in good condition, he started on an expedition to South Florida, wishing to visit all the tribes who occupied the lower part of the peninsula. The most southerly of these was that of Tequesta, and next were the tribes of Carlos, the most powerful of all the Indian tribes of this peninsula, and whose limits extended from one coast to the other. Within their domain, probably near Cape Florida, Me- nendez built a small fort and left a garrison. In reply to inquiries made here relative to Lake Miami and its con- nection with the San Mateo River, the Indians directed him to the country of the Tocobayo, fifty leagues to the north. Before leaving Fort Mateo he had given orders that a HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 139 vessel should be sent up the San Mateo River to search for Lake Miami, and to meet him, if possible, on the north coast of Florida. Three vessels were accordingly sent; but, finding the course of the river very tortuous and its borders inhabited by numerous Indians, in whose good feeling they felt no confidence, the commanders deter- mined to return to the fort. From the country of Carlos Menendez came to Tocobayo and obtained permission to erect a fort and leave some religious teachers to bring them to a knowledge of the true faith. From Tocobayo three days' march brought him to Fort Mateo, from which we may suppose that the location of Tocobayo was about that of Cape Canaveral. The Ade- lantado is said to have met at Tocobayo more than fifteen hundred Indians, and at a council held there twenty-nine caciques were present. At Fort Mateo Menendez found Juan Pardo, who had been sent out with one hundred and fifty men to explore the country to the west and see if there was any commu- nication open with New Spain by means of rivers having their course in that direction. Pardo penetrated some one hundred and fifty leagues to the Apalachian Mountains, making friendly overtures to the caciques of the country, and building a fort in the territory of one named Coava. Leaving a garrison and religious teachers here, Pardo re- turned to Felipe. Upon the river Mateo several caciques had rule, the most powerful of whom was Otima, whose territory was on the west bank of the river, near the Ocklawaha. To the north was the domain of Macaya, and to the south that of Ays. Satourioura, the bitter enemy of the Span- iards, occupied the country between St. Augustine and the San Mateo River, east and north, and so cut off all com- munication between the Spanish forts by land. The hos- 140 HISTORY OF FLORIDA. tility of this chief could not be appeased, and his prox- imity to the two most important posts was peculiarly annoying to Menendez, who determined to attack Satouri- oura with all the available force he could command. Four detachments of seventy men each, one of them under the command of Menendez himself, marched out, hoping to surprise the Indian chief; but the wily savage was on the alert, and, after a fruitless effort, the Spaniards returned to their posts. It seemed highly important, at this stage of affairs, that Menendez should visit Spain. He was aware that injuri- ous reports had been circulated against him at home, and many complaints and accusations made before the Spanish court, all of which he believed it his duty to refute in person before his sovereign. Within the eighteen months that had elapsed since his landing in Florida, Menendez had carefully examined the entire coast from Cape Florida to St. Helena, had built forts at St. Augustine, San Mateo, Avista, Guale, and St. Helena, and had established block-houses at Tequesta, Carlos, Tocobayo, and Coava, in all of which he had left garrisons and religious teachers. In most of this work Menendez had been personally engaged, while he was re- sponsible for all ; and mind and body now required change and relaxation. Believing that the interest of the colony, as well as his own, would be advanced by his going to Spain, Menendez caused a small vessel of twenty tons to be built, and in the spring of 1567 he set sail in his frail bark, accompanied by thirty-eight persons, including the crew. Fair weather and favorable winds brought them rapidly on their way, and in seventeen days they reached the Azores, making, it WHS said, seventy-two leagues a day, — a statement hardly to be believed. HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 141 They arrived safely in Spain, and Menendez was received with great favor at court. But empty honors were not what the Adelantado wanted. He required prompt and substantial aid to enable him to carry on his enterprise; and this he found not easily to be obtained. He was kept in anxious suspense at court, chafing under unnecessary delay and the obstacles thrown in his way, all the while fearful that the French might avail themselves of his ab- sence and make an attack upon his colony in retaliation for the massacres at Matanzas and Fort Caroline. Indeed, rumors of such designs had already reached him. Those who escaped those terrible massacres and returned home had scattered widely through France the bloody story of their countrymen's sufferings at the hands of the Spanish leader, and the indignation of the people grew stronger day by day as they witnessed the indifference of the French court. It was said that they intended to take the matter into their own hands, and that an avenger was about to appear. CHAPTER XI. Recapture of Fort Caroline, and the Notnble Revenge of Dominic de Gour