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JOHN AND BETTY'S 
 HISTORY VISIT 
 
Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive 
 in 2011 witin funding from 
 Tine Library of Congress 
 
 littp://www.arcliive.org/details/jolinbettysliistorOOwill 
 
They suddenly saw the tremendous cathedkal looming 
 UP BEFORE THEM. — Page 70. 
 
JOHN AND BETTY'S 
 HISTORY VISIT 
 
 BY 
 
 MARGARET WILLIAMSON 
 
 ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS 
 
 BOSTON 
 LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO. 
 
Published, March, 1910 
 
 3r ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 Copyright, 1910, by Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Co. 
 
 Ail nghts reserved 
 
 John and Betty's History Visit 
 
 Berwick & Smith Co. 
 
 Norwood, Mass. 
 
 U. S. A. 
 
 (gCl A3597&0 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTEB PAGE 
 
 I. First Impressions 9 
 
 II. The First Evening 15 
 
 III. Westminster Abbey 20 
 
 IV. Penshurst Place : the Home of Sir Philip 
 
 Sidney 37 
 
 V. The Tower of London 50 
 
 VI. St. Paul's Cathedral and Its Vicinity . 65 
 
 VII. A Sunday Night Chat .... 83 
 VIII. Windsor Castle, Stoke Poges, and Eton 
 
 School ........ 94 
 
 IX. More About London 107 
 
 X. Richmond and Hampton Court Palace . 122 
 
 XL Stratford-on-Avon 138 
 
 XII. A Day in Warwickshire .... 161 
 
 XIII. Warwick and Kenilworth Castles . . 181 
 
 XIV. Sherwood Forest and Haddon Hall . . 203 
 XV. Winchester, Salisbury, and Stonehenge 222 
 
 XVI. Clovelly 238 
 
 XVII. Rochester and Canterbury .... 251 
 
 XVIII. GooD-BY TO London 273 
 
 Index 289 
 
 5 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 They suddenly saw the tremendous cathedral 
 LOOMING UP BEFORE THEM {Page 70) . . Frontispiece 
 
 FACING 
 PAGE 
 "Oh, what's THIS PLACE? I AM SURE I HAVE SEEN 
 
 PICTURES OF IT ! " 12 
 
 "Do YOU REMEMBER THOSE QUAINT LITTLE VERSES 
 
 ABOUT 'Bow Bells'?" 16 
 
 " I only wish I could be A Guard and ride a horse 
 LIKE one of those ! " 20 
 
 " There's the Abbey right ahead of us " . . . 26 
 " What's the use op having so many doors? " . . 40 
 " This seems to speak of peace, happiness, and 
 
 safety" 44 
 
 " i want to see who those fellows in the funny 
 
 red uniforms are " .50 
 
 " The King cannot proceed into the ' City ' with- 
 out BEING FIRST RECEIVED AT TeMPLE BAR BY THE 
 
 Lord Mayor " 68 
 
 "I'd feel like 'Little Lord Fauntleroy' going 
 around with those clothes on ! " . . . . 84 
 
 " You REMEMBER, DOn't YOU, HAVING THE GUIDE POINT 
 
 OUT London Bridge?" 88 
 
 The MOSS-GROWN Saxon porch ..... 96 
 
 7 
 
8 ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 FACINQ 
 FAGE 
 
 John Milton lived there after he fled prom 
 
 London 106 
 
 "Oh, here's the old Coronation Chair, isn't it?" 114 ~ 
 " Every time I visit this palace I marvel at the 
 
 AMOUNT OF history WITH WHICH IT IS CON- 
 NECTED " 136 
 
 " Why, I didn't suppose it was as big as that ! " . 140 
 
 "Did Anne truly live here?" 164 
 
 " They know how important they are, and that 
 this garden wouldn't be complete without 
 them" 184 
 
 "It still seems alive with memories of the fair 
 Dorothy Vernon" . . . . . . . 218 
 
 " There still remains the question op how these 
 tremendous stones were brought here " . . 236 
 
 One of plaster and thatch, overgrown with 
 
 ROSES 240 
 
 "You'll find nothing at all like this strange 
 little Clovelly" 250 
 
 " William op Sens, in 1184, finished the building 
 WHICH we now see " 264 
 
 Old gentlemen, stout ladies, young people, and 
 
 small children, all ride in England . . . 286 V 
 
CHAPTER ONE 
 
 PmST IMPEESSIONS 
 
 Two eager young Americans sat, one on each 
 side of the window of an English train, speed- 
 ing towards London. They had landed only 
 that morning, and everything seemed very 
 strange to them, as they watched the pretty 
 scenes from the car- window. The lady who had 
 met them at the steamer, was an old friend of 
 the family, who had often been to America, and 
 was well known to the children, though they 
 had never seen her son and daughter, whom they 
 had come to visit. Mrs. Pitt soon aroused them 
 by saying :— 
 
 " Come, John, we are almost there, so 
 please fetch down Betty's wraps from the 
 rack. Here are your umbrellas ; you may take 
 Betty's bag and I'll take yours. Yes, it is 
 really England, and soon we'll be in London, 
 where Philip and Barbara are very impatiently 
 waiting to meet the American friends with 
 
 9 
 
10 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 whom they have been exchanging letters for so 
 long. They have been studying history hard, 
 and have learned all they possibly could about 
 their own country, which they love, and want 
 you to know, too. They have never seen very 
 much of England, and this is an excellent chance 
 for them to do some sight-seeing with you. I 
 think you'll have a jolly time seeing all the 
 strange sights and customs, and visiting some 
 historic places. Now, you must not expect to 
 find Philip and Barbara just like your friends 
 at home; English children dress very differ- 
 ently, and may use some expressions which you 
 do not exactly understand, but you'll soon be- 
 come accustomed to them all. Here we are at 
 Waterloo Station." 
 
 As the guard swung open the door, two im- 
 patient young people hurried up to the party. 
 
 ' ' Here we are, Mother ; did they come ? ' ' 
 
 John and Betty shyly shook hands with their 
 English friends, but did not find anything to 
 say, just at first. Mrs. Pitt went to the luggage- 
 van, to find the children's trunks, and the others 
 followed. 
 
 " Aren't the trains funny, John? " said 
 Betty, nervously holding her brother's hand. 
 
FIRST IMPRESSIONS ii 
 
 ** See, this is the baggage part of the car, but 
 isn't it small! " 
 
 '^ Oh, there are several on each train," ex- 
 plained Philip. " Are your vans any bigger? " 
 
 ^' There are our trunks, Mrs. Pitt," called 
 John. '^ I know them by the C's we pasted 
 on the ends." 
 
 '^ Here, porter, put this luggage on a four- 
 wheeler, please, ' ' and Mrs. Pitt and her charges 
 crowded in, the luggage was piled on top, and 
 they drove away. 
 
 ' ' Do you think you will like London 1 ' ' asked 
 Barbara of Betty, rather anxiously. 
 
 Betty ventured to answer, '' Oh, I think so, 
 only it is very different from New York. ' ' 
 
 It certainly was! Great, top-heavy buses 
 swung and lurched past them, some of them 
 drawn by splendid horses, but still more with 
 motors. The outsides of the vehicles were cov- 
 ered with all sorts of gay advertisements and 
 signs, in bright and vivid colors; in this way, 
 and in their tremendous numbers, they differ 
 from the New York buses on Fifth Avenue. 
 
 ' ' To-night, we will take you out for a ride on 
 top of a bus if you like, John," said Philip. 
 
 John, losing his shyness, began to ask ques- 
 
1 2 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 tions, and to give his opinion of the things he 
 saw. 
 
 *' I think the buses are great! I shall al- 
 ways choose that seat just behind the driver, 
 where I can talk to him. He must have fine 
 stories to tell, doesn't he, Philip? I like the 
 hansoms, too. There really seem to be more 
 hansoms than anything else in London! Just 
 look, Betty, at that long row there in the middle 
 of the street! I suppose they are waiting for 
 passengers. And there's a line of ' taxis,' too. 
 My, but these streets are crowded ! Fifth Ave- 
 nue isn't in it! " 
 
 Philip and Barbara looked at each other and 
 smiled. All the sights which were so familiar 
 to them, seemed very novel to their American 
 visitors. 
 
 ' ' I suppose it would be just the same to us, if 
 we were to visit New York," said Barbara. 
 '' Those bus-horses, which you admire, do look 
 very fine at first, but the work is so hard on 
 them, that they only last a very short time. 
 Their days are about over now, for soon we 
 shall have only the motor-buses. ' ' 
 
 " Oh, what's this place? " cried John ex- 
 citedly. ' ' I am sure I have seen pictures of it ! 
 
FIRST IMPRESSIONS 13 
 
 Why, Philip, I think you once sent me some 
 post-cards which showed this! " 
 
 " Oh, yes, this is Trafalgar Square," broke 
 in Mrs. Pitt. '' People sometimes call it the 
 center of all London. Here is the celebrated 
 statue of Lord Nelson — ^here, in the middle ; see 
 all the flower-girls, with their baskets, around 
 its foot. That large building, with the pillars, 
 is the National Gallery, where I may take you 
 to see the pictures. The church near it they call 
 St. Martin 's-in-the-Fields. Yes, it doesn't seem 
 a very appropriate name now, but once it really 
 was ' in the fields,' it has stood here so long. 
 Do you notice all the streets leading out from 
 this great square? That way is the direction 
 of the Strand and Fleet Street; Westminster 
 Abbey is not far away; and you can see the 
 towers of the Houses of Parliament — just there. 
 You will soon grow more familiar with all this. 
 Now, we must go this way, and before long, we 
 shall be at home. I think you'll be glad to rest 
 after your tiresome journey. This is Regent 
 Street, where many of the shops are. Aren't 
 they attractive? " 
 
 '^ Yes," said John, '' but how very low the 
 buildings are ! As far as I can see they are all 
 
14 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 of the same height. They are almost all yellow, 
 too, and with the bright buses the scene is very 
 gay." 
 
 They rode along for some time, the silence be- 
 ing often broken by exclamations and questions. 
 John and Betty could not understand how peo- 
 ple avoided being run over when they all dashed 
 across the street, right under the very noses of 
 the horses. It was amusing to see people stum- 
 bling up the narrow, winding stairs of the buses, 
 as they jolted along, and even the signs over the 
 shops attracted some attention. They won- 
 dered if the King and Queen could shop in 
 them all, for so many bore the words, ' ' Jewelers 
 to T. E. M.," or *' Stationers to Their Royal 
 Majesties." London seemed very large to 
 them on this first drive — ^very strange and for- 
 eign, and they were glad when the cab drew up 
 before a big house in a spacious square, and the 
 rest cried, " Here we are at home! " 
 
CHAPTER TWO 
 
 THE riKST EVENING 
 
 The big library at Mrs. Pitt's home was a 
 fascinating place, the two visitors thought. 
 The ceiling was high, the wainscoting was of 
 dark wood, and the walls were almost entirely- 
 lined with book-cases. John was delighted with 
 some little steps, which you could push around 
 and climb up on to reach the highest shelves. 
 This room suggested great possibilities to both 
 the young visitors, for, as they were to stay 
 many months, there would certainly be days 
 when it would be too wet to go out, and they 
 could by no means entirely give up their 
 reading. 
 
 As they had felt rather chilly on their bus- 
 ride that evening, the four young people all 
 came into the library upon their return, and 
 drew their chairs up to the tiny grate. Betty 
 and John had greatly enjoyed this new experi- 
 ence, for they had been truly English. Having 
 
 15 
 
1 6 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 jumped aboard while the bus was moving slowly, 
 near the curb, they had scrambled up the little 
 steps and taken the seats behind the driver. 
 They had not noticed much about where they 
 were going, for it had all seemed a jumble of 
 many lights, crowds of people, and noise. But 
 John had slipped a coin into the driver's hand, 
 and there had been a steady stream of stories 
 from that moment. London bus-drivers have 
 plenty to tell, and are not at all loath to tell it — 
 especially after the encouragement of a tip. 
 John was delighted to hear about the time, one 
 foggy Christmas Eve, when his friend had ' ' sat 
 for four hours, sir, without daring to stir, at 
 'Yde Park Corner." John envied him the 
 splendid moment when the fog had finally lifted 
 and disclosed the great mass of traffic, which 
 had been blinded and stalled for so long. 
 
 As John stood in front of the fire thinking 
 it all over, he suddenly exclaimed, ' ' It was fun 
 to hear that driver drop his h's; that was real 
 Cockney for you ! ' ' 
 
 Betty looked puzzled for a moment, and then 
 said, " Wasn't it supposed that only people who 
 had been born within the sound of the bells of 
 old Bow Church could be real Cockneys? " 
 
"Do YOU REMEMBER THOSE QUAINT LITTLE VERSES ABOUT 
 
 Bow Bells?" — Page 17. 
 
THE FIRST EVENING 17 
 
 " Tliat's right, Betty; your history is good," 
 said Mrs. Pitt, who had just entered; " but 
 John, I must tell you that dropping h's is not 
 necessarily Cockney. The peculiar pronuncia- 
 tion of vowels is what characterizes a true Cock- 
 ney's speech, but many others drop h's — the 
 people of Shropshire for instance. 
 
 '* Do you children remember those quaint lit- 
 tle verses about Bow Bells? " continued Mrs. 
 Pitt. ' ' In the days when Dick Whittington was 
 a boy, and worked at his trade in London, it was 
 the custom to ring Bow Bells as the signal for 
 the end of the day's work, at eight o'clock in the 
 evening. One time, the boys found that the 
 clerk was ringing the bells too late, and in- 
 dignant at such a thing, they sent the following 
 verses to him : 
 
 " ' Gierke of the Bow Bells, 
 With the yellow loekes, 
 For thy late ringitig, 
 Thou shalt have knoekes.' 
 
 '' The frightened man hastened to send this 
 
 answer to the boys: 
 
 " ' Children of Chepe, 
 Hold you all stille, 
 For you shall have Bow Bells 
 Rung at your wille.' " 
 
1 8 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 " That was bright of them," commented 
 John, as he rose to take off his coat. 
 
 Philip and Barbara had long since thrown off 
 their wraps and pulled their chairs away from 
 the fire, saying how warm they were. Even 
 after John had dispensed with his coat, Betty 
 sat just as near the tiny blaze as she could, with 
 her coat still closely buttoned. 
 
 " No, thanks; I want to get warm," she an- 
 swered, when they spoke of it. " It seems to 
 me that it's very cold here. Don't you ever 
 have bigger fires? " 
 
 As Betty spoke, the little blaze flickered and 
 almost went out. 
 
 " I'll shut the window," said Philip. '' I re- 
 member, now, how cold Americans always are 
 over here. Mother has told us how frightfully 
 hot you keep your houses. We don't like that, 
 for we never feel the cold. Why, just to show 
 you how accustomed to it we English are, let 
 me tell you what I read the other day. At Ox- 
 ford University, up to the time of King Henry 
 Vni, no fires were permitted. Just before go- 
 ing to bed the poor boys used to go out and run 
 a certain distance, to warm themselves. Even 
 I shouldn't care for that! " 
 
THE FIRST EVENING 19 
 
 ^'' Let's make some plans for to-morrow," ex- 
 claimed Mrs. Pitt. '' Wliat should you like to 
 see first, Betty? " 
 
 ' ' I want to go somewhere on a bus ! ' ' was 
 John's prompt answer, at which everybody 
 laughed except Betty. 
 
 " Oh, yes, but let's go to "Westminster Abbey 
 just as soon as possible, John. I've always 
 wanted so much to see it, that I don't believe I 
 can wait now. Think of all the great people 
 who have been associated with it," said Betty 
 very earnestly. 
 
 ' ' Very well, I quite agree on taking you first 
 to the Abbey," said Mrs. Pitt. '^ It is a place 
 of which I could never tire, myself. And 
 strange to say, I very seldom, if ever, get time 
 to go there, except when I'm showing it to 
 strangers. Why! It's twenty-five minutes 
 past nine this very minute, children; you must 
 go to bed at once! " 
 
CHAPTER THREE 
 
 WESTMINSTER ABBEY 
 
 The first tMng that Betty heard the follow- 
 ing morning was a gentle knock upon her bed- 
 room door, and a voice saying, '' It's seven 
 o 'clock, and will you have some sticks. Miss ? ' ' 
 
 "What sticks? What for?" Betty asked 
 sleepily. 
 
 They were for a fire, it seemed, and Betty 
 welcomed the idea. She was soon dressed, and 
 Barbara came to show her the way to the break- 
 fast-room. 
 
 '' You can't think how good it does seem not 
 to be thrown about while dressing, as we were 
 on the steamer ! Do you know that I can 't help 
 stepping up high over the door-sills even yet! " 
 laughed Betty, as they went downstairs to- 
 gether. " Mrs. Moore, the friend of mother's 
 in whose care we came, you know, told me that I 
 should probably feel the motion for some time 
 after landing." 
 
WESTMINSTER ABBEY 21 
 
 To the surprise of Jolm and Betty, there was 
 a very hearty breakfast awaiting them. They 
 had expected the meager tea, toast, and jam, 
 which some Americans consider to be customary 
 in English homes, because it is encountered in 
 the hotels. 
 
 Early in the morning, the buses were even 
 more crowded than the night before, and they 
 had some difficulty in finding seats. John 
 placed himself beside a soldier dressed in a 
 scarlet coat and funny little round cap held on 
 sidewise by a strap across his chin, with every 
 intention of starting up a conversation with 
 him ; but one glance at his superior air discour- 
 aged the boy from any such attempt. When 
 they arrived at Trafalgar Square again, they 
 jumped off, and walked down towards the 
 towers of the Houses of Parliament. In front 
 of the Horse Guards they stood in admiration of 
 the two mounted sentries, stationed there. 
 
 ' ' Those black horses are great ! ' ' cried John. 
 *' How fine those fellows do look sitting there 
 like statues in their scarlet uniforms, and their 
 shiny helmets with the flying tails to them! I 
 only wish I could be a Guard, and ride a horse 
 like one of those! " 
 
22 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 ** Would you rather be a Horse Guard, or a 
 bus-driver, John? " asked Betty teasingly. 
 
 * ' Sometimes you see dozens of the Guards to- 
 gether; that's a fine sight! " said Barbara, 
 after the laugh had subsided. " They escort 
 the King when he goes out in state. Oh, you'll 
 see them often. ' ' 
 
 That comforted John somewhat, but he could 
 not resist turning around for several glances 
 towards the gate- way where the Guards were. 
 
 " Why do they always stand there? " he ques- 
 tioned. 
 
 Mrs. Pitt explained that they were organized 
 by Charles II, who needed all possible protec- 
 tion to enable him to hold the throne after his 
 exile in foreign lands. After the days of Crom- 
 well, times were very unsettled, and many dis- 
 turbances were likely to occur. Hence the duty 
 of these Guards was probably to keep the peace 
 (the 'prentices and common people were very 
 hot-headed), and to escort the King, as they 
 still do. 
 
 " Perhaps," she went on, " you don't under- 
 stand who the 'prentices were. Long ago it was 
 the custom to apprentice boys to one of the 
 great and powerful guilds or companies. These 
 
WESTMINSTER ABBEY 23 
 
 were organizations of many merchants belong- 
 ing to the same trade; such as shipbuilders, car- 
 penters, candle-makers, and so forth. Their 
 main object was to see that the work which was 
 turned out was good. Every man belonged to 
 his guild ; some were for ' common and middling 
 folks,' while kings and princes were members 
 of others. A great deal of good was done by 
 these companies, for each, besides aiding and 
 protecting its own members, usually had some 
 other charity. For instance, the guild at Lin- 
 coln fed yearly as many poor as there were mem- 
 bers of the guild; and another kept a sort of 
 inn for the shelter of poor travelers. The 
 guilds played an important part in the life of 
 the time. Well, as I was saying, when a boy 
 had chosen the trade which was to his taste, he 
 went to the city, and was apprenticed to a mem- 
 ber of one of the guilds, with whom he usually 
 lived. The boys were called 'prentices. Their 
 life was not an easy one, and yet, it seems to me 
 that they must have enjoyed it. In those days, 
 there were great tournaments and grand pro- 
 cessions of kings, with hundreds of servants 
 and followers, all splendidly dressed in brilliant 
 colors. Men wore magnificent clothes of silks 
 
24 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISFF 
 
 and velvets and cloth-of-gold, with costly jewels, 
 such as ropes of pearls; and their servants, 
 whose duty it was to go before their masters on 
 the street, wore suits of livery with the silver 
 badge of their master. London in those days 
 was a wonderfully busy place! On board the 
 ships sailing up the river were men in strange 
 costumes, from foreign lands. The 'prentices 
 would often stop work to watch a company of 
 Portuguese sailors pass, or a gorgeous pro- 
 cession of bishops with their retainers; and 
 from this little verse we know that they did not 
 always return very quickly to their duties. Do 
 you know this ? 
 
 " ' When ther any ridings were in Chepe, 
 Out of the shoppe thider would he lepe; 
 And till that he had all the sight ysein, 
 And danced well, he would not come again.' 
 
 There were always processions, too, in winter 
 as well as in summer, for the people seemed not 
 to mind rain or storm in the least. The boys 
 had many holidays, — there were frequent 
 pageants, feasts, and celebrations of all kmds, — 
 and on the whole, I think they must have been 
 very happy in spite of the long hours of work, 
 
WESTMINSTER ABBEY 25 
 
 don't you? Another curious custom was the 
 keeping of cudgels in every shop for the use 
 of the 'prentices, in case of a fight — and I 
 imagine that they were numerous. Now, come 
 close to me, children, while we cross this street ; 
 there's the Abbey right ahead of us." 
 
 As they entered the north transept of West- 
 minster Abbey, the dim light, in contrast to the 
 sunshine outside, was almost blinding. At first, 
 all was indistinct except the great rose-window, 
 in the opposite transept, through which the light 
 strayed in many colors. The morning service 
 was in progress, so they sat down near the door, 
 and listened and looked. How beautiful I — ^how 
 tremendous it all was! Even John's overflow- 
 ing spirits were quieted, it was so wonderfully 
 impressive! The rose-window still stood out 
 clearly against the deep shadows all about it, 
 but a faint light could now be seen coming in 
 through the little windows, high up near the 
 roof, — the clerestory windows, they are called. 
 Betty could see the massive roof, the long aisles 
 crowded with marble monuments, and the pil- 
 lars. The canon's voice was heard intoning in 
 a deep, monotonous key; reading followed, and 
 then some one sang, in a high, clear voice, which 
 
26 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 seemed to come from far away, and yet to fill all 
 tlie space of the great building. Betty could 
 not have spoken a word; she was filled with a 
 kind of wondering awe such as she had never 
 known before. 
 
 John, more matter-of-fact, was examining the 
 statues nearest to him. 
 
 He touched Betty's arm to attract her atten- 
 tion, and said, '* See, there are lots of statues 
 here, Betty, but I only know the names of 
 William Pitt and Benjamin Disraeli, ' Twice 
 Prime-Minister.' Do you remember him? 
 Wonder if William Pitt was an ancestor of our 
 Mrs. Pitt! " he rambled on, not seeing that his 
 sister took no notice of him. 
 
 As for Betty, she scarcely knew that any one 
 had spoken to her. She seemed to be back in 
 the Middle Ages, and the present had vanished 
 away. 
 
 When the service was ended, they walked 
 about, examining the monuments as they 
 went. 
 
 " This long, broad aisle extending from the 
 main entrance to the choir is called the nave," 
 explained Mrs. Pitt. " The shorter aisles 
 which form the crossing are the transepts, and 
 
•There's the Abbey right ahead of vs."—Paffe 25. 
 
WESTMINSTER ABBEY 27 
 
 the choir is always the eastern end of the build- 
 ing, containing the altar. These are facts which 
 you will want to learn and remember. ' ' 
 
 '' The kings and queens are all buried here, 
 aren't they, Mrs. Pitt? " questioned John. 
 ^' Will they put King Edward here, too, when 
 he dies? " 
 
 ' ' A great many kings and queens are buried 
 here, though not all," Mrs. Pitt told them. 
 *' The Eoyal Tombs are there, behind those 
 gates, in the chapels which surround the choir. 
 We can't go in there unless we take a guide, and 
 I thought we would wait for another day to visit 
 the lovely chapel of Henry VII and all the fa- 
 mous tombs. I don't want you to see too much 
 at one time. No, John, King Edward probably 
 will not be buried here. Queen Victoria, his 
 mother, lies at a place called Frogmore, near 
 Windsor, and it is likely that her son will choose 
 that spot, also. Here's the Poets' Corner, and 
 there is at least one face which I'm sure you 
 will be glad to see. This is it. ' ' 
 
 As she spoke, the party stopped in front of 
 the well-known bust of our poet, Longfellow, 
 which I suppose every American is proud to 
 see. 
 
28 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 ' ' So they read ' Hiawatha, ' even in Eng- 
 land, ' ' Betty remarked. 
 
 a Tiiere are tablets all over the floor, under 
 our feet! Look, I'm standing on Dickens' 
 grave this very minute! And there's ' Oh, 
 Eare Ben Jonson,' right there on the wall; I've 
 always heard of that. And here's Spenser, and 
 Chaucer, and Browning, and Tennyson, very 
 close together. Oh! It's dreadful! I don't 
 want to step on them! Why, everybody who 
 ever was anybody seems to be here! " gasped 
 John, forgetting his grammar in his interest. 
 " Here are busts of Scott (there's the man for 
 me!), and Bums, Goldsmith, and Coleridge; I 
 know all these names. Here's a statue of 
 Shakespeare, though of course he isn't buried 
 here. There's a tablet to Jenny Lind. Wasn't 
 she a singer? Seems to me I've heard my 
 grandpa speak of her. And, if here isn't 
 Thackeray's grave — there in the floor again! 
 Well! Well! " 
 
 ' ' Come over here, John, and see this, ' ' called 
 Philip, pointing to a tomb on which was this 
 inscription : 
 
 Thomas Parr of ye county of Salop, born A.D. 1483. 
 He lived in the reignes of ten princes, viz. — King Edward 
 
WESTMINSTER ABBEY 29 
 
 IV, King Edward V, King Richard III, King Henry VII, 
 King Henry VIII, King Edward VI, Queen Mary, Queen 
 Elizabeth, King James, and King Charles; aged 152 years, 
 and was buryed here, 1635. 
 
 *' Well, that beats them all! " laughed John, 
 who was greatly pleased. 
 
 Mrs. Pitt now led the rest into the little chapel 
 of St. Faith, off the south transept, where they 
 sat down to rest. 
 
 *' It's the most wonderful place I ever 
 dreamed of ! " said Betty quietly, as though she 
 were talking to herself. ^' This little chapel is 
 the quaintest, oldest thing I ever saw! The 
 walls are so dark; that tiny window up so high, 
 hardly lets in any light at all; and the altar, 
 with the faded picture, is so strange! I can't 
 believe it is the twentieth century; the people 
 in the Abbey now don't seem real to me at all. 
 They look so small and shadowy beside the huge 
 statues of people of other days! Surely the 
 people the statues represent belong here, and 
 not we ! Why, I feel so far back in history that 
 I shouldn't be in the least surprised to see Ea- 
 leigh, or Chaucer, or Queen Elizabeth, walk into 
 this chapel, right now! I should probably go 
 
so JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 up and say ' How do you do? ' " she added 
 laughingly. 
 
 Betty did not know that any one had heard her 
 talking, but Mrs. Pitt had been listening, and 
 when Betty was silent, she said : 
 
 '^ Come, let's go out into the sunshine of the 
 cloisters now, I am really afraid to have Betty 
 stay in here any longer! The first thing we 
 know, she'll be disappearing into the Middle 
 Ages! She's almost there now! " 
 
 As they went through the low door into the 
 cloisters, she continued, '' I want to explain to 
 you children, that in connection with this Ab- 
 bey, as with all, there was for centuries a 
 great monastery; and that the buildings which 
 we shall see, as well as the cloisters, had to do 
 with the monks. Henry VIII dissolved all the 
 monasteries in England, you remember." 
 
 The ancient cloisters of Westminster Abbey 
 are deeply interesting and impressive. They 
 are four arcades built around the square grass- 
 plot, which was the monks' burial-ground. The 
 fine tracery of the windows is now much broken, 
 and is crumbling away with age, but its exquisite 
 carving is still plainly seen. The original pave- 
 ment yet remains; it is much worn by the feet of 
 
WESTMINSTER ABBEY 31 
 
 the monks, and is almost covered by tablets 
 which mark the resting-places of the abbots, as 
 well as of others. The members of our party 
 were touched, as are all, by the pathetic sim- 
 plicity of the epitaph: '* Jane Lister, Dear 
 Childe, 1688. ' ' Those four short words suggest 
 a sad story about which one would like to learn 
 more. 
 
 *' You must know," said Mrs. Pitt, " that the 
 cloisters were something besides burial-places. 
 Here the monks spent most of their time, for 
 this was the center of the life of the monastery. 
 The southern cloister, over opposite, was the 
 lavatory, and there the monks were forced to 
 have their heads shaved, — every two weeks in 
 summer, and every three in winter. These 
 walls were then painted with frescoes, the floor 
 and benches were covered with rushes or straw, 
 the windows were partly glazed, and lamps hung 
 from the ceiling. In one of the cloisters was 
 held a class of novices, taught by a master, and 
 this was the beginning of Westminster School. 
 I believe the pupils were allowed to speak only 
 French. How would you like that? " 
 
 Adjoining the cloisters are numerous little 
 passageways, with low arches, which lead into 
 
32 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 tiny courts dotted with flowers and little 
 fountains. In the houses about, live the canons 
 of the Abbey and others connected with the 
 church. Lovely glimpses of sunlight and the 
 bright colors of flowers are seen at the ends of 
 these dark, ancient passages. 
 
 Westminster School may also be reached from 
 the cloisters. Our party stood a moment in the 
 doorway of the schoolroom to see the splendid 
 old hall, with its fine oaken roof. This was once 
 the dormitory of the monks, but is now taken up 
 with the boys' " forms," or desks, piled with 
 books. The walls above the wainscoting, and 
 the window-recesses, are covered with signa- 
 tures of the scholars, — some of them famous, for 
 the school was begun as long ago as the time of 
 Henry VIII, who was the founder. The visitor 
 may see the name of the poet, Dryden, on one 
 of the desks ; he was a pupil there, as were also 
 Sir Christopher Wren, the architect; Ben Jon- 
 son; Southey, the poet; and John and Charles 
 Wesley. 
 
 *' What is that iron bar for? " questioned the 
 curious John, pointing to a long bar which 
 stretches from wall to wall, across the middle of 
 the room. 
 
WESTMINSTER ABBEY 33 
 
 " Tiiat divides the Upper and Lower 
 Classes," was the prompt reply of Mrs. Pitt, 
 whose stock of knowledge seemed endless. ' ' At 
 one time, a curtain was hmig over that bar. 
 Don't you know the story which is told in the 
 ' Spectator Papers,' about the boy who acci- 
 dentally tore a hole in this curtain? He was a 
 timid little fellow, and was terrified at the 
 thought of the punishment which he felt sure 
 would be his. One of his classmates came to 
 the rescue, saying that he would take the blame 
 upon himself, which he did. It was years later, 
 when the timid boy had become a great judge, 
 that the Civil War broke out, and he and his 
 friend took opposite sides. The kind man who 
 had saved his friend from punishment was a 
 Eoyalist, and was captured and imprisoned at 
 Exeter, where the other man happened to come 
 at the same time, with the Circuit Court. At 
 the moment when nothing remained but to 
 sentence the ' rebels,' the judge recognized his 
 friend, and by making a very hurried trip to 
 London, he was able to secure a pardon from 
 Cromwell, and thus succeeded in saving the 
 man's life." 
 
 '' That was fine! " said John. '' He did pay 
 
34 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Tiim back after all, didn't he? I thought he 
 wasn't going to." 
 
 '' Now, we will just look into the Chapter 
 House and the old Jerusalem Chamber, before 
 we go," said Mrs. Pitt, as they left the school. 
 
 The Chapter House is a beautiful, eight-sided 
 room, dating from the thirteenth century. 
 Here the business of the monastery was always 
 conducted, and at the meetings which camie 
 every week, the monks were allowed to speak 
 freely, and to make complaints, if they wished. 
 Here also the monks were punished. 
 
 * ' They used to whip them against that central 
 pillar, there, ' ' the guard explained. ' ' Here sat 
 the abbot, opposite the door, and the monks sat 
 on benches ranged around the room. Parlia- 
 ment met here for many years, too, its last ses- 
 sion in this room being on the day that the great 
 King Hal died." 
 
 The Chapter House has been restored now, 
 and the windows are of modem stained-glass. 
 In the cases are preserved some valuable docu- 
 ments, the oldest being a grant of land, made 
 by King Offa, in 785. 
 
 To reach the Jerusalem Chamber, it is neces- 
 sary to go through a part of the cloisters, and 
 
WESTMINSTER ABBEY 35 
 
 into the court of the Deanery. On one side is 
 the old abbot's refectory, or dining-hall, where 
 the Westminster school-boys now dine. John 
 went boldly np the steps and entered. After a 
 few minutes, he came running out again, ex- 
 claiming : 
 
 * ' Nobody stopped me, so I went right in, and 
 looked around. A maid was setting the tables, 
 and I noticed that she stared at me, but she 
 didn't say anything, so I stayed. The hall is 
 great! It isn't very large, but is paneled and 
 hung with portraits. The old tables, a notice 
 says, are made from wood taken from one of the 
 vessels of the Spanish Armada. Wonder how 
 they found it and brought it here ! I was just 
 going to ask the maid, when a savage-looking 
 man appeared and said I had no business there. 
 So I came away. I don't care; I saw it, any- 
 way! " he added, as they approached the en- 
 trance of the Jerusalem Chamber. 
 
 All three sides of this little court were the 
 abbot's lodgings, and are now the deanery. 
 The Jerusalem Chamber was built about 1376, 
 as a guest-chamber for the abbot's house. 
 
 " The name is curious, isn't it? " remarked 
 Mrs. Pitt. '* It probably came from some 
 
36 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 tapestries which formerly hung there, repre- 
 senting the history of Jerusalem. It was in this 
 room, right here in front of the fireplace, accord- 
 ing to tradition, that Henry IV died. A strange 
 dream had told the King that he would die in 
 Jerusalem, and he was actually preparing for 
 the journey there, when he was taken very ill, 
 and they carried him into this room. When he 
 asked where they had brought him, and the re- 
 ply was, ' To the Jerusalem Chamber,' he died 
 satisfied. Many bodies have lain here in state, 
 too, — among them, that of Joseph Addison, 
 whom they afterwards buried in the Abbey. 
 When we come again, I will show you his grave. 
 Now, notice the bits of ancient stained-glass in 
 the windows, and the cedar paneling; except 
 for that, there is nothing specially noteworthy 
 here. ' ' 
 
 As they left the Dean's Yard and crossed the 
 open space in front of the great western towers 
 of the Abbey, John and Betty agreed that if 
 they could see nothing more in England, they 
 were already repaid for their long journey 
 across the ocean. 
 
CHAPTER FOUR 
 
 PENSHUKST PLACE : THE HOME OF SHI PHHilP SIDNEY 
 
 In" Charing Cross Station one morning, Mrs. 
 Pitt hurried up to the " booking-office," as the 
 English call the ticket-office, to " book " five 
 tickets to Penshurst. While the man was get- 
 ting her change, she turned and said to Philip : — 
 
 ' ' Please ask that guard who is standing there, 
 on which platform we shall find the 9.40 train 
 for Penshurst." 
 
 Philip did so, and returned with the informa- 
 tion that they should go to Platform 8. ' So they 
 all mounted the steps and walked over the foot- 
 bridge which always runs across and above all 
 the tracks, in an English station. There was a 
 bench on the platform, and they sat down to 
 await the arrival of the train. About 9.35, five 
 minutes before the train was to start, John hap- 
 pened to see a train official sauntering by, and 
 asked him if it was correct that the Penshurst 
 train left from that platform. 
 
 37 
 
38 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 The man stared. ' ' Eeally, you are quite mis- 
 taken," lie drawled; '' that train leaves from 
 Platform 2. You had better hurry, you know; 
 you haven't much time." 
 
 John waited for nothing more, but ran to tell 
 the rest, and they all started for the other end 
 of the station. Up the steep steps again ran 
 Mrs. Pitt, with the four young people following. 
 Along the bridge they flew till they reached 
 Platform 2, and then they almost fell down the 
 steps in their hurry, for the train was already 
 there. 
 
 When they were fairly seated in a third- 
 class carriage, John, still out of breath, ex- 
 claimed : — 
 
 * ' Whew ! My ! I never ran faster in my 
 life, did you, Philip ? How the girls kept up, I 
 don't know! You're a first-class sprinter all 
 right, Mrs. Pitt ! We'd like you on our football 
 team, at home ! My, but I'm hot ! " 
 
 He paused for breath, and then went on ex- 
 citedly : 
 
 < i There was a close call for you ! We 'd have 
 lost it if I hadn't spoken to that guard, just in 
 fun ! There we were calmly waiting, and all of 
 a sudden, we took that wild dash across the 
 
PENSHURST PLACE 39 
 
 bridge! It was great! I hope somebody 
 caught a photograph of us ! I'd like to see one ! 
 How stupid of the guard to make that mistake ! 
 They never seem to know very much, anyway. 
 If I ever am a guard, I shall be different ; I shall 
 know things! " 
 
 They all had a good laugh over the adventure, 
 and Mrs. Pitt assured John that when he was a 
 guard, they would all promise to use his station. 
 
 '' Don't these trains seem different from ours, 
 Betty? " the future guard asked of his sister. 
 '' It seems so queer to me why they want to 
 take a perfectly good, long car, and chop it up 
 from side to side, into little narrow rooms, like 
 this ! What's the use of having so many doors ? 
 — one on each side of every ' compartment ' ! 
 And then, they put handles only on the outside, 
 so you have to let down the window and lean 
 away out to open it for yourself, if the guard 
 doesn't happen to do it for you! We Amer- 
 icans couldn't wa,ste so much time! " 
 
 Just then, Betty, who could contain herself 
 no longer, burst out laughing. 
 
 << Why, what in the world's the matter? " 
 cried Barbara. 
 
 Betty could only point to a passing train. 
 
40 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 " It's only the funny little freight cars! " she 
 finally explaiaed, rather ashamed that she had 
 let her feelings escape in that way. '' They 
 look so silly to us ! They seem about a third 
 the size of the ones at home. Really, these re- 
 mind me of a picture in my history-book, of the 
 first train ever run in America ! ' ' 
 
 Mrs. Pitt smiled. ^' Yes, I can imagine just 
 how strange they must seem to you, for I re- 
 member very well how I felt the first time I 
 ever rode in one of your trains. To me, one 
 of the most interesting things about visiting a 
 foreign country, is to see the different modes of 
 travel. ' ' 
 
 *' Oh, please understand that I think so, too ! " 
 urged Betty. ' ' It was only that I couldn't help 
 laughing just at first, you see. I wouldn't have 
 your trains just like ours for anything, and I'm 
 sure that John wouldn't either." 
 
 " Now," said Mrs. Pitt, '' there is a little 
 confession which I feel that I ought to make. 
 It's about where we are going to-day. Prob- 
 ably most people would blame me for not tak- 
 ing you to Windsor or Hampton Court, on your 
 first trip out of town. Both those places are 
 charmiug, but I wanted to show you, first of all, 
 
PENSHURST PLACE 41 
 
 this dear little corner of Kent. All tourists 
 flock to Windsor and Hampton Court, but a 
 great many do not know about this tiny, out- 
 of-the-way village, with which I fell in love 
 years ago. Penshurst Place was the home of 
 Sir Philip Sidney, and is still owned by a mem- 
 ber of the same family. You know that Sir 
 Philip lived in Queen Elizabeth's time, and that 
 his name stands for the model of a perfect 
 courtier and ideal gentleman. He died when he 
 was very young — only thirty-two, I think — and 
 he did very little which you would suppose could 
 have made him so famous. That is, it was little 
 in comparison with what Ealeigh and Drake ac- 
 complished, and yet the name of Sidney ranks 
 with all the rest. It seems to have been more 
 in the way he did things, than in what he did. 
 Of course, you remember the story of his death, 
 — that when he was dying, he passed a cup of 
 water which was brought him, to another dying 
 soldier, saying, ' Thy need is greater than mine. ' 
 Well, to-day we shall see where he was born and 
 bred, — ^where Ben Jonson, Edmund Spenser, 
 and Queen Elizabeth all visited. ' ' 
 
 They were now riding through Kent, in which 
 county is some of the most picturesque Eng- 
 
42 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 lish scenery. Although it was only the last 
 of April, the grass was the freshest green, the 
 great trees were in full leaf, and primroses 
 were beginning to spring up in the fields. They 
 sped through little villages of thatched-roofed 
 cottages, each with its tiny garden of gay 
 flowers. There were little crooked lanes, bor- 
 dered by high hedges, and wide, shady roads, 
 with tall, stately elms on either side, and fields 
 where sheep grazed. 
 
 " Oh, there's a cottage which looks like Anne 
 Hathaway 's! " exclaimed Betty. '' It couldn't 
 be, could it? Anyway, it's real story-book 
 country! " 
 
 They left the train at the little station of 
 Penshurst, two miles from the village. Behind 
 the building stood a queer, side-seated wagon, 
 with one stout horse. The driver, when Philip 
 found him, seemed loath to bestir himself, but 
 was finally persuaded to drive them to the 
 castle. 
 
 Penshurst village proved to be even prettier 
 than those they had seen from the train. The 
 Lord of Penshurst Place is a very wise, appre- 
 ciative man, and he has made a rule that when 
 any cottage in the village is found to be beyond 
 
PENSHURST PLACE 43 
 
 repair, it sliall be replaced by a new liouse ex- 
 actly like the original. In consequence, the 
 houses look equally old and equally attractive, 
 with their roofs of grayish thatch, and the sec- 
 ond stories leaning protectingly over the lower 
 windows, overgrown with rose-vines. 
 
 Mrs. Pitt went into the tiny post-office to buy 
 their tickets of admission to the castle, and when 
 she called out that there were also pretty post- 
 cards to be had, the others quickly followed. 
 Having chosen their cards, they all walked 
 through the little church-yard, with its ancient 
 yew trees, and out into a field from which they 
 could see Penshurst Place itself. 
 
 << Why! isn't it a huge place! " cried Bar- 
 bara. ^' This is just as new to Philip and me, 
 you know, Betty, for we have never been here, 
 either. ' ' 
 
 ' ' How charmingly situated it is ! " exclaimed 
 Mrs. Pitt enthusiastically. " Just a glance at 
 it would tell you that it was never a strong 
 fortress. Like Raby Castle, another favorite of 
 mine, I believe that Penshurst never stood a 
 siege. But it is so stately and graceful, stand- 
 ing in the center of these perfect lawns and 
 groups of noble old trees ! It is a beautiful con- 
 
44 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 trast to the many fortress-castles ! This seems 
 to speak of peace, happiness, and safety. ' ' 
 
 The castle covers a great deal of ground, and 
 is low and square, with here and there a turret. 
 A terrace, or broad walk, runs the length of the 
 front of the building, where the moat formerly 
 was, and the party crossed this to reach the 
 entrance-way. His Lordship came out just 
 then, with his dog, and glanced kindly at the 
 eager young people. Continuing, they crossed a 
 square court, and came to a second gateway, 
 where a servant met them and conducted them 
 into the oldrtime Baronial-hall, dating from the 
 fourteenth century. 
 
 " This," announced the guide with tremen- 
 dous pride, ' ' we believe to be the only banquet- 
 hall now remaining in England, where the an- 
 cient fireplace in the center of the room still ex- 
 ists. You'll see many fine halls, but you'll not 
 see another such fireplace." 
 
 John went up to investigate, and found that 
 right in the middle of the vast room was a high 
 hearth, on which some logs were piled. '' But 
 
 how ? " he was asking, when the guide's ex^ 
 
 planations flowed on once more : 
 
 " Yes, the smoke went out through a little 
 
■ This seems to speak of peace, happiness, and safety. 
 Page 44. 
 
PENSHURST PLACE 45 
 
 hole in tlie roof. This hall has never been re- 
 stored, you see. That's the best thing about it, 
 most people think, lady. Here's the oak panel- 
 ing, turned gray with age ; there, up on the wall, 
 are the original grotesque figures, carved in 
 wood; here, are two of the old tables, as old as 
 the hall; and there's the musicians' gallery, at 
 that end, over the entrance. ' ' 
 
 Mrs. Pitt was leaning against one of the 
 massive tables, with her eyes partly closed. 
 ^' Let's just imagine the grand feasts which 
 have been held here," she mused. '' I can al- 
 most see the Lord and Lady, dressed in purple 
 and scarlet, sitting with their guests at a table 
 across this end of the room. A board stretches 
 down the length of the hall, and here sit the in- 
 feriors and retainers. A long procession of 
 servants is winding always around the tables, 
 bearing great roasts, birds, pasties, and all sorts 
 of goodies, on huge platters, high above their 
 heads. Up in the gallery here, the musicians 
 are playing loudly and gayly, and even when 
 they cease the guests do not lack for entertain- 
 ment, for the fool, in his dress of rainbow col- 
 ors, is continually saying witty things and pro- 
 pounding funny riddles. In such a place much 
 
46 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 elegance and ceremony were the necessary ac- 
 companiments of a grand feast. In a book giv- 
 ing instructions for the serving of the Royal 
 table, is this direction, which always interested 
 me : ' First set forth mustard with brawn ; take 
 your knife in your hand, and cut the brawn in 
 the dish, as it lieth, and lay on your Sovereign's 
 trencher, and see that there be mustard.' As 
 you see, they were exceedingly fond of mustard. 
 Eichard Tarleton, an actor of Queen Elizabeth's 
 time, who was much at Court as jester, is re- 
 ported as having called mustard ' a witty scold 
 meeting another scold.' " 
 
 The guide was growing impatient, and Mrs. 
 Pitt ceased, saying reluctantly, '' Well, I sup- 
 pose we must go on." 
 
 A servant rang a bell, and soon, down some 
 stairs came a dear little old lady dressed in stiff 
 black silk, with white apron and cap, and mitts 
 on her hands. She escorted the party up the 
 stairs, into her domain. 
 
 " Wouldn't you just know to look at her that 
 she had been in the family all her life 1 ' ' whis- 
 pered Barbara to Betty. 
 
 First they saw the Ball-room, a stately apart- 
 ment in which hang three very valuable chan- 
 
PENSHURST PLACE 47 
 
 deliers, whicli Queen Elizabeth gave to Sir 
 Henry Sidney. The next room is still called 
 '* Queen Elizabeth's Room," for here that 
 Queen slept when upon a visit to the house. The 
 same furniture which she used is still in place, 
 as well as some tapestries made in honor of the 
 visit, by Lady Sidney. 
 
 " If Queen Elizabeth slept in that bed," re- 
 marked Betty, ^' she couldn't have been very 
 tall." 
 
 Their guide, taking this as criticism of one of 
 her beloved treasures, was quick to say : 
 
 '' It only looks short, because it's so uncom- 
 mon wide, begging your pardon, Miss." 
 
 '* Did that stool belong to anybody? " ques- 
 tioned Barbara, tactfully changing the subject. 
 *' It looks as if it has a history." 
 
 " And it has, Miss ; that stool was used by the 
 late Queen Victoria (God bless her!), at her 
 coronation at Westminster Abbey! " and the 
 loyal old lady patted the black velvet stool re- 
 spectfully. 
 
 The rooms and corridors of the old house are 
 crowded with things of interest. Sir Philip's 
 helmet is there, and a bit of his shaving-glass. 
 iu a small room called the ^' Pages' Closet," 
 
48 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 are preserved rare specimens of china — 
 Queen Elizabeth's dessert-set, in green, and 
 Queen Anne's breakfast-set, in blue and white. 
 Betty and Barbara were deeply interested in 
 Mary Stuart's jewel-case, and they laughed over 
 a very curious old painting which shows Queen 
 Elizabeth dancing. The long picture-gallery 
 is lined with portraits — most of them Sid- 
 neys — and among them those of the mother 
 of Sir Philip, and of his sister, the Coun- 
 tess of Pembroke, for whom he wrote his 
 " Arcadia." 
 
 When they again passed through the Ball- 
 room on their way out, they were shown a little 
 square window on one of the walls, which they 
 had not noticed before. 
 
 ''Why! I can see down into the Banquet- 
 hall! " exclaimed Philip, who had climbed up 
 to look through. 
 
 " Yes," said their guide, " in the olden times, 
 the master at the ball could look through there 
 to see how the servants were behaving, down 
 in the hall below. ' ' 
 
 Out on the lawn again, they lingered for a few 
 minutes while Mrs. Pitt reminded them that 
 there is every reason to believe that under those 
 
PENSHURST PLACE 49 
 
 very trees Spenser wrote Ms " Shepherd's 
 Calendar. ' ' 
 
 Eeluctantly they left the castle and walked 
 back to the carriage, which awaited them in the 
 village. 
 
 '^ If all English castles are as beautiful as 
 Penshurst Place, ' ' declared Betty earnestly, ' ' I 
 can't go back to America until I have seen every 
 one! " 
 
CHAPTER FIVE 
 
 THE TOWER OF LONDON 
 
 *' I SHOULD think they'd call it * The Towers/ 
 instead of ' The Tower, ' ' ' remarked Betty, sur- 
 veying the curious, irregular jumble of build- 
 ings before her, as they left the bus. 
 
 " That's true," Mrs. Pitt agreed; " but I sup- 
 pose the name was first given to the White 
 Tower, which is the oldest part and was built 
 by William the Conqueror as long ago as 1080. 
 Why did they call it the White Tower! Well, 
 I believe it was because they whitewashed the 
 walls in the thirteenth century. Why, what's 
 the matter, John? " 
 
 *' I want to see who those fellows in the 
 funny red uniforms are," John called back, as 
 he ran ahead. 
 
 When they reached the entrance, they saw 
 John admiring a group of these '' fellows," who 
 stood just inside the gate. In reality, they are 
 old soldiers who have served the King well, and 
 
 50 
 
THE TOWER OF LONDON 51 
 
 are therefore allowed to be the keepers and 
 guides of the Tower. They bear the strange 
 name of '' beefeaters " (a word grown from the 
 French " buffetiers "), and are very pic- 
 turesque in their gorgeous scarlet uniforms, cov- 
 ered with gilt trimmings and many badges, 
 a style of costume which these custodians 
 have worn ever since the time of Henry 
 VIII, and which was designed by the painter, 
 Holbein. 
 
 Any one may pay sixpence for a ticket which 
 entitles him to wander about the precincts of the 
 Tower, and to see the ' ' Crown Jewels, ' ' and the 
 armory, but Mrs. Pitt, being more ambitious for 
 her young friends, had obtained a permit from 
 the Governor of the Tower. This she pre- 
 sented to the " beefeater " who stood by the 
 first gateway, after they had crossed the great 
 empty moat. The old man stepped to a tiny 
 door behind him, opened it, disclosing a small, 
 winding stair, and called ' ' Warder ! Party, 
 please! " 
 
 A venerable ' ' beefeater ' ' with white hair and 
 beard came in answer to the summons, and 
 bowing politely to the party, immediately 
 started off with them. They set out along a 
 
52 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 little, narrow, paved street, lined by ancient 
 buildings or high, walls. 
 
 '' They do say h'as 'ow the Princess Eliza- 
 beth, afterwards Queen, was h 'imprisoned in 
 that room, up there, ' ' stated the guide, pointing 
 to a small window in a wall on their left. ' ' By 
 Queen Mary's h 'orders she was brought in 
 through the Traitor's Gate, there. That was a 
 great disgrace, you know, Miss," he said to 
 Betty, " for h'all the State prisoners entered 
 by there, and few of them h'ever again left the 
 Tower. ' ' 
 
 Before them some steps led down to a little 
 paved court, and beyond, under a building, they 
 saw the terrible Traitor's Gate, — a low, gloomy 
 arch, with great wooden doors. The water 
 formerly came through the arch and up to the 
 steps, at which the unfortunate prisoners were 
 landed. As the Princess Elizabeth stepped 
 from the boat, she cried, ' ' Here landeth as true 
 a subject, being a prisoner, as ever landed at 
 these stairs; and before Thee, God, I speak 
 it! " 
 
 '' Isn't there a proverb, ' A loyal heart may 
 be landed at Traitor's Gate '? " questioned Mrs. 
 Pitt; and turning to the guide she added, 
 
THE TOWER OF LONDON 53 
 
 " Wasn't it right here where we are standing 
 that Margaret Eoper caught sight of her father. 
 Sir Thomas More, after his trial? " As the 
 guide nodded his assent, she went on, ' ' You all 
 remember Sir Thomas More, of course, — the 
 great and noble man whom Henry VIII be- 
 headed because he would not swear allegiance to 
 the King as head of the Church in England. In 
 those days, an ax was always carried in the 
 boat with the prisoner, on his return to the 
 Tower, after the trial. If the head of the ax 
 was turned toward the victim, it was a sign 
 that he was condemned. It was here, as I said, 
 that Margaret Eoper stood with the crowd, ea- 
 gerly watching for the first glimpse of her be- 
 loved father; and when he came near and she 
 saw the position of the ax, she broke away 
 from the soldiers, and flung herself into her 
 father's arms. The two were so devoted that 
 their story has always seemed an especially 
 pathetic one to me. I suppose there were many 
 like it, however. ' ' 
 
 ^' Indeed there were, lady," returned the 
 guide, quite moved. 
 
 Just opposite Traitor's Gate is the Bloody 
 Tower, the most picturesque bit of the entire 
 
54 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 fortress. The old portcullis there is known as 
 the only one in England which is still fit for 
 use. At the side is an ancient and rusty iron 
 ring, which attracted John's attention so much 
 that he asked about it. 
 
 ' ' Boatmen coming through the Traitor 's Gate 
 yonder, used to tie their boats to that ring, ' ' the 
 * ' beefeater ' ' told them. ' ' That shows you 'ow 
 much farther h'up the water came in those days. 
 H'in a room over the gate-way of the Bloody 
 Tower there, the Duke of Clarence, h 'according 
 to some, drowned himself in a butt of Malmsey 
 wine; and in h'an adjoining room, they say that 
 the little Princes were murdered by h 'order of 
 their uncle, the powerful Duke of Gloucester, 
 who stole their right to the throne. Eight 'ere, 
 at the foot of these steps, is where 'e 'urriedly 
 buried them, h 'after 'is men 'ad smothered 
 them. ' ' 
 
 The children stood gazing at the little window 
 over the gate-way, their eyes big with horror. 
 It did not seem as though such terrible things 
 could have been done there in that little room, 
 into which the sun now poured through the tiny 
 window. 
 
 Every night at eleven o'clock, the warder on 
 
THE TOWER OF LONDON 55 
 
 guard at the Bloody Tower diallenges the Chief 
 Warder, who passes bearing the keys. Each 
 time this conversation follows : — 
 
 *' Who goes there? " 
 
 "Keys." 
 
 " Whose keys? " 
 
 ** King Edward Vn's keys.'' 
 
 ** Advance King Edward VII 's keys, and alPs 
 well." 
 
 Not until then, may the keys in the Chief 
 Warder's care be allowed to pass on. 
 
 Some steps just beyond lead into the Wake- 
 field Tower, where the " Crown Jewels " are 
 now kept. The '' beefeater " remained below, 
 but Mrs. Pitt took the young people up into the 
 little round room where the splendid crowns and 
 other jewels are seen, behind iron bars. After 
 examining minutely the objects on view, while 
 leaning just as far as possible over the rail, 
 John burst out with : 
 
 '* Just look at those huge salt-cellars ! " point- 
 ing to several very large gold ones. * * I should 
 say that the English must be about as fond of 
 salt as they are of mustard, to have wanted 
 those great things! Oh, I don't care for 
 these ! " he added. ' ' They are stupid, I think ! 
 
S6 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Imagine being King Edward, and owning such 
 elegant crowns, scepters, and things, and then 
 letting them stay way down here at the Tower, 
 where he oan't get at them ! What's the use of 
 having them, I'd like to know! Oh, come on! 
 I've seen enough of these ! " 
 
 '' Wait just a minute, John," interrupted 
 Betty. " See! here's Queen Victoria's crown, 
 and in it is the ruby that belonged to the Black 
 Prince, and which Henry V wore in his helmet 
 at Agincourt ! Just think ! ' ' with a sigh. 
 " Now I'll go." 
 
 ' ' Speaking of crowns, ' ' observed Mrs. Pitt, in 
 passing down the stairs, ' ' have you ever heard 
 about the large emerald which George III wore 
 in his crown, at his coronation"? During the 
 ceremony, it fell out, and superstitious people 
 regarded it as a bad omen. Their fears were 
 realized when that sovereign lost something 
 much dearer to him than any jewel : his Amer- 
 ican Colonies." 
 
 The previously-mentioned White Tower 
 stands in the center of all the other surrounding 
 buildings. It is large and square, with turrets 
 at the four corners, — ^an ideal old fortress. As 
 they approached, the guide took out some keys 
 
THE TOWER OF LONDON 57 
 
 and unlocked a door, starting down some steps 
 into the darkness. ^' Oh, the dungeons!" 
 gasped Betty, and she and Barbara shivered a 
 little, as they followed. 
 
 Just at the foot they halted, and the guide 
 showed them some round holes in the floor. 
 
 '' 'Ere's where they fastened down the rack. 
 This 'ere's the Torture Chamber. You may 
 think that being so near the entrance, the cries 
 of the victims could be 'card by the people out- 
 side, lady, but these walls are so thick that 
 there was no possible chance of that. Ah, down 
 in these parts is where we still see things, 
 ladies! " 
 
 <-<- Why, what do you mean? "whispered John, 
 dreading and yet longing to hear. 
 
 Thus encouraged, their guide continued : — 
 
 '' Once h 'every month, it is my turn to watch 
 down 'ere, during the night. Some of us don't 
 like to admit it, lady, but we h'all dread that! 
 Many things which 'ave never been written 
 down in 'istory, 'ave 'appened in these 'ere 
 passages and cells ! Ah, there are figures glide 
 around 'ere in the dead 0' night, and many's 
 the times I've 'eard screams, way in the 
 distance, as though somebody was being 'urt! 
 
5 8 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Now, this way, please, and I'll show you Guy 
 Fawkes's cell, — 'im h'as was the originator of 
 the Gunpowder Plot, and tried to blow up the 
 'ouses of Parliament." 
 
 They felt their way along the uneven floors, 
 and peered into the darkness of Guy Fawkes's 
 cell, which was called *' Little Ease." 
 
 ' ' Just imagine having to stay long in there ! ' ' 
 sighed Betty. '' Not able to stand up, lie down, 
 or even sit up straight ! Did they make it that 
 way on purpose, do you think f " 
 
 '^ They certainly did, Miss," declared the 
 guide. ' ' They tried to make 'im confess 'o 'ad 
 associated with 'im in the plot; but 'e wouldn't, 
 and they finally put 'im on the rack, poor man ! 
 A terrible thing was that rack ! ' ' 
 
 '^ Let's come away now," broke in Mrs. Pitt 
 quickly. ' ' I really think we have all had about 
 enough of this, and there are more cheerful 
 things to be seen above." 
 
 So they threaded their way out to the entrance 
 again, getting whiffs of damp, disagreeable air 
 from several dark dungeons, and passing 
 through a number of great apartments stacked 
 with guns. It was a relief to gain the main 
 part of the building, where other people were, 
 
THE TOWER OF LONDON 59 
 
 and plenty of warmth and sunlight. Their 
 spirits rose, and they laughed and joked while 
 climbing the narrow, spiral stairs. 
 
 The large room in which they found them- 
 selves was filled with weapons also, and various 
 relics of the old Tower. It was used as the 
 great Banqueting-hall when the Tower was the 
 Eoyal Palace, as well as the fortress, the State 
 prison, the Mint, the Armory, and the Record 
 Office. The apartment above this was the Coun- 
 cil Chamber. They went up. 
 
 '' It was here that Eichard 11 gave up his 
 crown to Henry of Bolingbroke who became 
 Henry IV, by demand of the people, ' ' said Mrs. 
 Pitt. ' * Eichard was a weak, cruel king, you re- 
 member, and was confined in a distant castle, 
 where he was finally murdered. Suppose we 
 examine some of this armor now. This suit 
 here belonged to Queen Elizabeth's favorite, the 
 Earl of Leicester. Notice the initials E. D., 
 which stand for his name, Eobert Dudley. This 
 here was made for Charles I when he was a 
 boy; and that belonged to Charles Brandon, 
 Duke of Suffolk; and this, to Henry VIII him- 
 self. Aren't they interesting? Yes, what's 
 that you have found, Barbara? " 
 
6o JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 The two boys were absorbed in the armor 
 for some time, but Barbara and Betty liked a 
 figure on horseback, which represents Queen 
 Elizabeth as she looked when she rode out in 
 state. It is strangely realistic, for the figure is 
 dressed in a gown of the period said to have 
 belonged to that Queen. 
 
 " Do you suppose that jewels were sewn into 
 the dress where those round holes are? " asked 
 Betty, gently touching the faded velvet with one 
 finger. 
 
 They all examined the dreadful instruments 
 of torture, some of them taken from the Ar- 
 mada, and the ghastly headsman's block and 
 mask, and then they descended the wiading 
 stairs again and went into the little shadowy 
 St. John's Chapel, on the floor with the Ban- 
 queting-hall. 
 
 " I want you all to remember that this is 
 called the ' most perfect Norman chapel in Eng- 
 land,' " began Mrs. Pitt. " Some day when 
 you have learned more about architecture, that 
 will mean a great deal to you. These heavy cir- 
 cular pillars and the horseshoe arches show 
 the ancient Norman style. It's a quaint place, 
 isn't it? Here Brackenbury, the Lieutenant of 
 
THE TOWER OF LONDON 6i 
 
 the Tower, was praying one evening when the 
 order came to him to murder the two little 
 Princes. In this chapel, the Duke of Northum- 
 berland, the aged father of Lady Jane Grey, 
 heard Mass before he went out to execution. 
 ' Bloody Mary ' came here to attend service 
 upon the death of her brother, Edward VI. 
 Somewhere on the same floor of this tower, 
 John Baliol, the Scotch King, was imprisoned 
 and lived for some time in great state. There 
 is (at any rate, there was) a secret passage be- 
 tween this chapel and the Royal Apartments. 
 I have read so much about the dreadful con- 
 spirators who skulked about the Tower, and the 
 fearful deeds that were done here, that I can 
 almost see a man in armor, with drawn sword, 
 lurking behind one of these pillars ! ' ' 
 
 Some soldiers in their gay uniforms were 
 parading on Tower Green when they went out 
 again, and the scene was a merry, bright one. 
 
 ' ' How different from the days when the scaf- 
 fold stood under those trees! " exclaimed Mrs. 
 Pitt, as they approached the fatal spot. ' ' Here 
 perished Lady Jane Grey, Anne Boleyn, Kath- 
 arine Howard, and Queen Elizabeth's unfor- 
 tunate favorite, the Earl of Essex. Most of the 
 
62 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 victims were beheaded just outside, on Tower 
 Hill. Now, we '11 look into St. Peter 's Chapel. ' ' 
 
 It is a gloomy, unattractive enough little 
 chapel, but there are buried here many il- 
 lustrious men and women, whose lives were un- 
 justly taken by those in power. Here lie the 
 queens who suffered at the Tower, and, 
 strangely enough, their tombs are mostly un- 
 marked. John Fisher, the ancient Bishop of 
 Eochester, lies here, and Guildford Dudley, 
 husband to Lady Jane Grey, the Earl of Arun- 
 del, Sir Thomas More, and many others whose 
 names are forever famous. 
 
 Our party visited the little room in the Beau- 
 champ Tower, which so many examine with in- 
 tense interest. Many people were imprisoned 
 there, and the walls are literally covered with 
 signatures, verses, coats-of-arms, crests, and 
 various devices cut into the stone by the cap- 
 tives. Perhaps the most famous is the simple 
 word ' ^ JANE, ' ' said to have been done by her 
 husband, Guildford Dudley. A secret passage 
 has been discovered extending around this 
 chamber, and probably spies were stationed 
 there to watch the prisoners and listen to what 
 they said. 
 
THE TOWER OF LONDON 63 
 
 " That's the Brick Tower," said Mrs. Pitt, 
 pointing to it with her umbrella, as she spoke. 
 ti There's where Ladj Jane Grey was impris- 
 oned, and there Sir Walter Raleigh lived dur- 
 ing his first stay at the Tower. It was when 
 he was in the Beauchamp Tower, however, that 
 he burnt part of his ' History of the World, ' the 
 work of many years. It happened in a curious 
 way! Do you know the story? He was at his 
 window one morning and witnessed a certain 
 scene which took place in the court beneath. 
 Later, he talked with a friend who had been a 
 nearer spectator of this identical scene, and they 
 disagreed entirely as to what passed. Raleigh 
 was very peculiarly affected by this little inci- 
 dent. He reasoned that if he could be so much 
 mistaken about something which had happened 
 under his very eyes, how much more mistaken 
 must he be about things which occurred cen- 
 turies before he was born. The consequence 
 was that he threw the second volume of his 
 manuscript into the fire, and calmly watched it 
 burn. Think of the loss to us ! Poor Raleigh ! 
 He was finally beheaded, and I should think he 
 would have welcomed it, after so many dreary 
 years of imprisonment. He is buried in St. 
 
64 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Margaret's Cliiircli, beside Westniinster Abbey, 
 you know.'* 
 
 " Was there a real palace in the Tower? " 
 inquired Betty, while they retraced their steps 
 under the Bloody Tower and back toward the 
 entrance. " Isn't there any of it remaining? " 
 
 " Yes, there was a palace here once, for roy- 
 alty lived in the Tower through the reign of 
 James I. No part of it now exists, however. 
 It stood over beyond the White Tower, in a part 
 which visitors are not now allowed to see." 
 
 On a hill just outside the Tower, in the center 
 of a large, barren square, is a little inclosed 
 park with trees and shrubbery. Here stood the 
 scaffold where almost all of the executions were 
 held. The place is now green and fruitful, but 
 it is said that on the site of the scaffold within 
 the Tower, grass cannot be made to grow. 
 
 As they walked toward a station of the 
 " Tube," an underground railway, John sud- 
 denly heaved a great sigh of relief and ex- 
 claimed : 
 
 " Well, I tell you what! I've learned heaps, 
 but I don't want to hear anything more about 
 executions for a few days! What do you all 
 say? " 
 
CHAPTER SIX 
 
 ST. Paul's cathedral and its vicinity 
 
 When Betty came down to her breakfast the 
 following morning, she found her plate heaped 
 with letters and fascinating little parcels of 
 different shapes. For a moment she looked 
 puzzled, then she exclaimed: 
 
 ''Oh! I know! It's my birthday, and I'm 
 having such a splendid time sight-seeing, that 
 I had forgotten all about it ! How lovely ! " as 
 she glanced again at the presents. 
 
 " See, John! " she cried, opening the first 
 package, which had an American postmark, 
 " see what mother has sent me! It is such a 
 pretty tan leather cover, with little handles, to 
 put on my Baedeker. You know I always carry 
 the guidebook, and read about things for Mrs. 
 Pitt. Now, I can keep the book clean, and be- 
 sides, people can't recognize me as an Amer- 
 ican just from seeing my red book! That's a 
 fine idea, I think ! " 
 
 65 
 
66 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Jolin thought that his sister was not opening 
 the bundles quite fast enough, so he pounced 
 upon one and unwrapped it for her. 
 
 " This long thing is father's gift, Betty. 
 It's an umbrella, of course, and a fine one! 
 Here's a card which says, ' Knowing that two 
 umbrellas could never be amiss in England, I 
 send this.' Do you suppose he guessed that 
 you'd lost yours? " 
 
 After the bundles were all opened, the letters 
 hurriedly devoured, and Betty had at last set- 
 tled down to eating her cold breakfast, Mrs. Pitt 
 said: 
 
 " I had not decided exactly what we would 
 do to-day, and now I think I'll let the birthday 
 girl plan. Where will you go, Betty? " 
 
 After due consideration, Betty announced 
 that she would choose to visit St. Paul's Cathe- 
 dral, and afterwards, by way of contrast, to 
 have lunch at the Cheshire Cheese. 
 
 " What in the world's that I " inquired John. 
 
 Mrs. Pitt laughed. '' You'll see, for we'll go 
 there, as Betty suggests, when we have seen St. 
 Paul's. I'm not sure whether you'll care to 
 have lunch there, but we'll look in, at any rate. 
 It's rather different from the places where you 
 
ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL 67 
 
 are accustomed to take your luncli! No, you 
 must wait, John! I'm not going to tell you 
 any more about it ! " 
 
 '* What a beautiful day! " Betty cried, tak- 
 ing her seat on the bus a little later. '' I do 
 wish it wouldn't always be so windy, though! I 
 almost lost my hat then! " 
 
 " As you stay longer in London, you'll notice 
 that a really clear day is almost always a very 
 windy one as well. We Londoners have to ac- 
 cept the two together," Mrs. Pitt told the vis- 
 itors. 
 
 Leaving Trafalgar Square, the bus carried 
 them by Charing Cross Station, in front of 
 which is a copy of the old Charing Cross. Ed- 
 ward I, when his queen, Eleanor of Castile, 
 died, put up many crosses in her memory, each 
 one marking a spot where her body was set 
 down during its journey to Westminster Abbey 
 for burial. A little farther along, the bus 
 passed the odd little church of St. Mary-le- 
 Strand, which is on an ' * island ' ' in the middle 
 of that wide street and its great busy, hurrying 
 traffic. It is good to remember that on that 
 very spot, the maypole once stood. Narrow 
 side streets lead off the Strand, and looking 
 
68 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 down them one may see .the river, and under- 
 stand why the street was so named. It orig- 
 inally ran along by the bank of the Thames, and 
 the splendid houses of the nobles lined the way. 
 
 " These fine stone buildings on our left are 
 the new Law Courts, and the griffin in the 
 center of the street marks the position of old 
 Temple Bar. There! "We've passed it, and 
 now we are in Fleet Street. Temple Bar was 
 the entrance to the ' City,' you know. To this 
 day the King cannot proceed into the ' City ' 
 without being first received at Temple Bar, by 
 the Lord Mayor. At one time, the city of Lon- 
 don comprised a small area (two and a quar- 
 ter miles from end to end), and was inclosed 
 by walls and entered by gates. Originally there 
 were but four gates, — ^Aldgate, Aldersgate, Lud- 
 gate, and Bridgegate. Think what a small city 
 it was then ! It is curious to know that in spite 
 of that, there were then one hundred and three 
 churches in London. The real center of life for 
 centuries was at ' Chepe,' or Cheapside, as it 
 is now called. You'll see it later." 
 
 Betty had been looking eagerly, even while 
 she listened to what Mrs. Pitt was saying. Her 
 eyes now rested upon an old church, over the 
 
ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL 69 
 
 door of which, stood a queer, blackened statue 
 of a queen. 
 
 '' The church is St. Dunstan's," responded 
 Mrs. Pitt again. '' That old statue of Queen 
 Elizabeth is one of the few things which escaped 
 the great fire in the reign of Charles II. The 
 figure once stood on the ancient Lud Gate of 
 the city. They say that it was in the church- 
 yard of St. Dunstan's that John Milton sold his 
 wonderful poem of ' Paradise Lost ' for five 
 pounds. ' ' 
 
 " Let's see, — that would be twenty-five dol- 
 lars, wouldn't it? I haven't your English 
 money clear in my mind yet, ' ' John confided to 
 Philip. *' I can't somehow feel that it's real 
 money unless it 's in dollars and cents. ' ' 
 
 Philip soon pointed to a little alley-way on 
 their left, and said, '' The Cheshire Cheese 
 is in a little court back of there. You can't 
 think how many buildings, courts, and alleys are 
 hidden in behind all of these shops. Some of 
 the old inns, or coffee-houses, which were fa- 
 mous are (or were) there. Now, here's Lud- 
 gate Hill, and in a minute you'll have a view of 
 St. Paul's." 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral stands on a hill, and be- 
 
70 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 cause of its position and huge dome it is the 
 most conspicuous of London's landmarks. But, 
 because of the closely surrounding buildings, it 
 is much hidden from near view. As the bus 
 mounted Ludgate Hill, having passed under the 
 railroad-bridge, they suddenly saw the tre- 
 mendous cathedral looming up before them. 
 
 They paused for a moment by the statue of 
 Queen Anne, in front of the main entrance, while 
 Mrs. Pitt, following her delightful habit, re- 
 minded them of certain notable facts. 
 
 " No one knows exactly how long there has 
 been a church upon this site," she began, beck- 
 oning them closer to her, as the noise of the 
 traffic was so great, '' but Bede, the oldest his- 
 torian, says that a chapel was built here by a 
 Saxon king, before the time of the Eomans. 
 When Sir Christopher Wren, the architect, built 
 this present edifice, after the great fire of 1666, 
 he found relics of three periods, — the Saxon, the 
 British, and the Eoman. St. Paul's has been 
 burned five times. The last fire (the one of 
 which I just spoke) destroyed the church which 
 we know as ' old St. Paul's.' Now, let's go in, 
 for there is much to be seen. ' ' 
 
 Next to St. Peter's at Eome, St. Paul's in 
 
ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL 71 
 
 London is the largest church in the world. The 
 first impression a person gets is one of great 
 vastness and bareness, for, unlike Westminster 
 Abbey, here one does not encounter at every step 
 famous statues, memorials, and graves. The 
 nave is tremendous in width and in length. 
 Chapels open from both sides, but they seem far 
 off and shadowy. Way in the distance is the 
 choir, the altar, and the group of chairs used 
 at services. Everything is quiet, empty, and 
 bare. 
 
 '' I never imagined such a huge church! " 
 said Betty, much impressed. '' I feel lost 
 and cold, somehow. What are you think- 
 ing, Mrs. Pitt? I'm sure we'd all like to 
 hear." 
 
 * ' I was just picturing, as I always do when I 
 come here, the scenes the nave of old St. Paul's 
 presented in Henry VIII's time. Would you 
 like to hear? Well, in the sixteenth century, 
 this nave was called ' Paul's Walke,' and it was 
 a place of business. Yes, ' ' she assured them, as 
 John and Betty exclaimed, '^ down these aisles 
 were booths where merchants of all kinds sold 
 their wares. Counters were built around the 
 pillars, and even the font was used by the 
 
72 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 vendors. Pack-horses laden with merchandise 
 streamed always in and out, and crowds of peo- 
 ple elbowed their way about, shouting and 
 gesticulating excitedly." 
 
 '' But didn't they have any services at all 
 in St. Paul's Cathedral? " asked Betty won- 
 deringly. 
 
 "Oh, yes!" continued Mrs. Pitt, "the 
 services went on just the same. The people 
 were used to the noise and confusion. Here 
 came the tailors to look at the fine new clothes 
 which the young dandies wore when they took 
 their morning promenades. All the latest books 
 and poems were always to be found on sale here. 
 Bishop Earle wrote ' Paul's Walke — you may 
 cal — the lesser He of Great Brittaine. The 
 noyse in it is like that of Bees, in strange hum- 
 mings, or buzze, mixt of walking, tongues, and 
 feet; it is a kind of still roare, or loud 
 whisper.' 
 
 " I am glad to be able to say, however," 
 she continued, " that before that dreadful 
 period, there was a time when the cathedral was 
 not so dishonored. Once these walls were cov- 
 ered with valuable shrines, pictures, and tapes- 
 tries, and costly jewels glittered everywhere. 
 
ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL 73 
 
 There was one huge emerald which was said to 
 cure diseases of the eyes. Here came John 
 Wycliffe, the great reformer, at the summons of 
 the Archbishop of Canterbury, to answer for 
 the publication of his new doctrines. Here, 
 Henry of Bolingbroke prayed for his successful 
 seizure of the throne, and here he also wept 
 over. the grave of his father, John of Gaunt. 
 Sir Philip Sidney was buried here, and his 
 father-in-law. Sir Francis Walsingham, Queen 
 Elizabeth's secretary; and there was a mag- 
 nificent monument to Sir Christopher Hatton, 
 Lord Chancellor, but these were all destroyed by 
 the Great Fire." 
 
 About the aisles and nave are many monu- 
 ments to great soldiers, sailors, painters, states- 
 men, literary men, and others. Most of them 
 are very ugly, and our party did not linger 
 long over these. After walking under the dome, 
 and looking up into its tremendous heights, they 
 went down into the crypt, which is really the 
 most interesting part of the cathedral. 
 
 The crypt is vast, dark, and gloomy. Other 
 parties may be heard walking about and talking 
 in the distance, without being seen, and their 
 voices echo strangely. In the ' ' Painters ' Cor- 
 
74 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 ner," Sir Josliua Eeynolds, West, Lawrence, 
 Landseer, and Turner, all famous artists, lie 
 buried beneath the pavement. Sir Christopher 
 Wren, surrounded by members of his family, 
 lies under the dome, as was his wish. Lord Nel- 
 son and the Duke of Wellington both have 
 splendid tombs there. 
 
 '' These are all we now have of the monu- 
 ments of the old cathedral," remarked Mrs. Pitt, 
 pointing to where in a comer some mutilated 
 figures, heads, and broken monuments lay, all 
 in a heap. 
 
 John was delighted when it was proposed to 
 climb up into the dome, and to test the ' ' Whis- 
 pering Gallery," on the way. It seemed an 
 endless climb up the spiral stairs, and Mrs. Pitt, 
 Barbara, and Betty lagged behind. When they 
 finally came out into the great round gallery, the 
 two boys were over on the opposite side. Betty, 
 after waving to them, sat down on a bench 
 against the wall, and suddenly she heard John's 
 voice, saying ' ' Glad to see you at last ! ' ' She 
 put her lips to the wall and whispering an an- 
 swer, found that John could hear her, too. 
 They were having quite a lengthy conversation, 
 holding first their lips to the wall to speak. 
 
ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL 75 
 
 and then their ears to listen, when Mrs. Pitt in- 
 terrupted them. 
 
 '' That's great fun, but we have still a hard 
 climb before us, ' ' she reminded them. ' ' I think 
 we had better go on. ' ' 
 
 The remainder of the way was much more dif- 
 ficult, as the steps were steeper and narrower 
 than ever, but they at last emerged on the little 
 platform, running around the top of the dome. 
 
 " My, what a view! " they cried. 
 
 '' Yes, you're the first visitors in many a day 
 who could see so far," the man in charge told 
 them. 
 
 If the terrible black smoke which comes from 
 the hundreds of chimneys, and the fog permit 
 one to see it all, the view is truly fine. It is 
 especially interesting to trace the river in its 
 various curves, and to pick out the many bridges 
 which span it. Another striking feature is the 
 immense number of spires. The guide pointed 
 out the churches to them, and also the different 
 parts of the city. 
 
 *' If you thought it was windy on the bus, 
 Betty, I wonder what you call this, ' ' exclaimed 
 Barbara, grasping her hat with both hands. 
 " I 'm going down now. ' ' 
 
76 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 The others were quite ready to follow, and 
 they wound their way down, down, down, until 
 they stood again on the main floor, under the 
 dome. 
 
 '' This is called St. Paul's Church-yard," said 
 Mrs. Pitt, leading the way around back of the 
 cathedral. ' ' This used to be a very busy place. 
 St. Paul's School was here, within the yard, as 
 well as many shops. The first printer who pro- 
 duced books for children had his shop in this 
 comer. In the days when the interior of the 
 building was put to such dreadful uses, the out- 
 side was treated quite as badly. Shops of all 
 kinds were built up against the cathedral, and 
 sometimes the noise which the carpenters made 
 greatly disturbed those at the service within. 
 It must have been shocking indeed! It is said 
 that for a very small sum, the sexton would 
 allow boys to climb up and ring the bells 
 as much as they liked; and, on the day of 
 Queen Mary's coronation, she saw a Dutch- 
 man standing on the weather-vane, waving 
 a flag." 
 
 " My! I'd like to have seen that! " cried 
 John, to whom such gymnastic, feats appealed. 
 
 While they walked back to the Cheshire 
 
ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL 77 
 
 Cheese, Mrs. Pitt explained to them what St. 
 Paul's Cathedral once comprised. 
 
 " In the London of the Middle Ages, the 
 Church ruled supreme," she told them. '' At 
 least one-fourth of the entire city was owned 
 by the churches and the religious houses. To 
 carry on the monasteries and churches, a tre- 
 mendous number of people were necessary. At 
 St. Paul's, in 1450, there were: 
 
 The bishop. 
 
 Four archdeacons, 
 
 The treasurer. 
 
 The precentor, 
 
 The chancellor. 
 
 Thirty greater canons, 
 
 Twelve lesser canons, 
 
 Fifty chaplains, and 
 
 Thirty vicars. 
 These were of the higher rank; there were in- 
 numerable others of lower rank, such as the 
 master of the singing-school, the binder, and the 
 translator. The brewer, in 1286, brewed 67,814 
 gallons, and the baker baked about 40,000 loaves. 
 This gives one a little idea of what it meant to 
 conduct a cathedral in those days of the all- 
 powerful Church." 
 
78 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Between the poor shops of Fleet Street, open 
 many little passages, and these lead into tiny 
 courts and winding alleys. The entrance to 
 one of them is marked with the sign, ^ ' Wine Of- 
 fice Court." Directly off from this narrow, 
 dark alley stands the famous Cheshire Cheese, 
 the only genuine old-time tavern or " coffee- 
 house " which still exists unchanged. It is a 
 little, low building, with quaint bow-window of 
 square panes. 
 
 ^' Why, we can't all get in there, can we? " 
 laughed John, as Mrs. Pitt stepped inside. The 
 door is very small, and the hallway was so 
 crowded by curious visitors, and by jostling, 
 pushing waiters, that it did not seem possible for 
 another person to enter. They managed, how- 
 ever, to elbow their way through the crowd 
 into the celebrated " coffee-room " itself. 
 
 That * ' coffee-room ' ' is splendid ! The ceil- 
 ing is very low, and the walls are wainscoted in 
 dark -wood. Although the room is so small, 
 there are numerous long tables, and old-fash- 
 ioned, high-backed settles. One seat, in the cor- 
 ner farthest from the door, is marked with a 
 little tablet, telling us that there was Dr. John- 
 son's chosen place. Several pictures of that 
 
ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL 79 
 
 noted gentleman adorn the walls. It always 
 seems very much out of keeping with the quaint- 
 ness of the room, to find it full of laughing, 
 chattering Americans. A few quiet English 
 clerks come there for their noon meal, but the 
 majority of the patrons of the Cheshire Cheese 
 are the tourists. 
 
 li There's nothing to do but to wait here un- 
 til we can get seats," said Mrs. Pitt; so they all 
 remained standing in the middle of the floor, 
 directly in the path of the waiters, until finally 
 some seats were free, and they slid into 
 one of the long benches which extend down 
 each side of the tables, placed endwise to the 
 wall. 
 
 ' ' Are you sorry you proposed coming here 1 ' ' 
 Mrs. Pitt asked Betty, watching with amuse- 
 ment her crest-fallen face as she saw the soiled 
 linen, and untidy look of the entire table. 
 
 ' * Oh, no, ' ' Betty answered doubtfully, ' ' only 
 I guess people come here more because Dr. 
 Johnson did, than because they like it." 
 
 Mrs. Pitt laughed. " That's very true," she 
 said. " The service isn't exactly prompt, 
 either. We've already waited quite fifteen min- 
 utes, I am sure. I ordered lark pie and 
 
8o JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Chesliire cheese for you, of course. Every one 
 takes them on his first visit here. ' ' 
 
 The lark pie was Dr. Johnson's favorite dish, 
 but that fact does not suffice to make it very en- 
 joyable. Betty frankly confessed that she could 
 not manage to eat hers, but John pretended to 
 be very industrious over his, although he did a 
 good deal of looking about the room and com- 
 menting upon things he saw. 
 
 " There's even sawdust on the floor," he an- 
 nounced jubilantly. " Did you ever! My! 
 How hot and stuffy it is here! Were all old 
 inns just like this, Mrs. Pitt? " 
 
 " Yes, pretty much so, I think," was the re- 
 sponse. " There were ever so many of them, 
 you know, and each was frequented by a certain 
 class of men. For instance, there was the 
 ' British Coffee-house, ' where all the Scotch vis- 
 itors went; there was ' Robin's,' which was 
 noted for its foreign bankers and ambassadors ; 
 and there was ' Dolly's Chophouse,' where the 
 wits congregated. Most of the famous clubs 
 held their meetings at one or another of the 
 ' coffee-houses,' too. The ' Spectator Club ' 
 met at ' Button's Coffee-house,' anl there the 
 * Spectator Papers ' had their beginningSo 
 
ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL 8i 
 
 There Addison, Steele, Pope, and others, spent 
 their leisure hours. Some of the London clubs 
 of the eighteenth century had very queer 
 names! " she continued. " There was the 
 ' Ugly Club,' the ' Quack Club,' the ' Beefsteak 
 Club,' the ' Split-Farthing Club,' and the 
 ' Small Coalmen's Music Club,' for example. 
 Here, at the Cheshire Cheese, Goldsmith often 
 came with Dr. Johnson. Can't you imagine the 
 two sitting over at that table, with Boswell not 
 far away, patiently listening, quill in hand? 
 Dr. Johnson was very careless and un- 
 tidy, you know, and invariably spilled his 
 soup. It was he who used to walk up and 
 down Fleet Street touching every post he 
 passed! " 
 
 All this time they had been waiting for their 
 cheese. When it finally came, it proved to be 
 much better than the lark pie. The cheese is 
 served in little three-cornered tins, and is 
 poured hot over crisp pieces of toast. 
 
 When they had finished, they went up the 
 winding stairs to see the room where the famous 
 " Literary Club " used to meet. Dr. Johnson's 
 chair is preserved there. 
 
 " Didn't Dr. Johnson live near here, too, 
 
82 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Mother? " asked Barbara, as they came out 
 again into the court. 
 
 ' ' Yes, I believe he lived in both Johnson and 
 Bolt Courts," Mrs. Pitt told them. '' His 
 haunts were all about here. In number six, 
 over there. Goldsmith is said to have written 
 * The Vicar of Wakefield.' " 
 
 From there, they walked up Fleet Street, dis- 
 cussing their unusual lunch as they went. They 
 had all enjoyed it, — even Betty. 
 
 She made them all laugh, however, by an- 
 nouncing seriously, ''I'm glad I went, but I 
 think it is just about as nice to read about lunch- 
 ing there, as to really do it. And then, you 
 wouldn't be quite so hungry afterwards! " 
 
CHAPTER SEVEN 
 
 A SUNDAY NIGHT CHAT 
 
 It was Sunday afternoon, and the time for 
 John and Betty to send their weekly letters 
 home. The day was a beautiful one in early 
 spring, the grass and trees in the garden behind 
 the house were very green, birds were singing 
 outside, people were continually walking by, and 
 the letters progressed but slowly. Every few 
 moments Betty stole a glance out-of-doors, and 
 John sat leaning his elbow on the desk chewing 
 the end of his penholder, while he gazed steadily 
 out of the window. 
 
 " Well, what do you think of it all, John? " 
 asked Betty thoughtfully. '■ ' Aren't we glad we 
 came, and aren't Mrs. Pitt and Barbara and 
 Philip good to us ? " 
 
 ' ' Just splendid ! ' ' exclaimed John most em- 
 phatically. He had turned away from the win- 
 dow now, and was entering earnestly into the 
 conversation, ' ' I just tell you what, Betty, it's 
 
 83 
 
84 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 a different thing to peg away at an old, torn 
 history-book at school, and to come over here 
 and see things and places, while Mrs. Pitt tells 
 you about them ! Why, I honestly like English 
 history the way we're learning it now! " 
 
 Betty smiled in an elder-sisterly fashion. 
 ' ' Well, I always did like to study history, but it 
 surely makes it nicer and easier to do it this 
 way. But besides that, John, don't you think it's 
 queer and very interesting to see the way the 
 English do things — all their customs, I mean. 
 They're so different from ours! Why, when I 
 first saw Barbara that day at the train, I 
 thought it was the funniest thing that her hair 
 was all hanging loose down her back. I 
 wouldn't think of being so babyish! I thought 
 perhaps she'd lost off her ribbon maybe, but 
 she's worn it that way ever since. And her lit- 
 tle sailor-hat looks so countrified as she has it, 
 — 'way down over her ears ! " 
 
 *' I know it ; it seemed mighty funny to me to 
 see Philip's black suit with the long trousers, 
 his broad collar, and skimpy short coat! It's 
 what all the boys at the Eton School wear, he 
 says. They must feel like fools! Why, I'd 
 feel like — like — ' Little Lord Fauntleroy ' going 
 
I'd feel like 'Little Lord Fauntleroy ' going around with 
 THOSE CLOTHES ON ! " — Page 84. 
 
A SUNDAY NIGHT CHAT 85 
 
 around with those clothes on all the time! " 
 John's voice was full of scorn, yet his eyes 
 twinkled with fun. " But, the high hat, just 
 like father's opera-hat, which Philip wears, 
 beats it all! " he continued. '' I'm so used to 
 it now, though, that I don't think of it any more. 
 It's queer how soon you get used to things! 
 It's just like riding along the streets, and keep- 
 ing to the left instead of to the right. The first 
 time I rode in a hansom (you weren't there that 
 day, Betty) and we suddenly turned a corner, 
 keeping close to the left curb, I poked open the 
 little door in the roof and shouted, ' Hey there ! 
 Mister! You'll bump into something if you 
 don't look out! ' The driver just stared; he 
 didn't seem to know what I was talking about." 
 ' ' Yes, ' ' went on Betty in her turn, ' ' keeping 
 to the left did seem queer at first. You know, 
 John, how often we have wished that Dan and 
 the automobile were over here. Honestly, I 
 think Dan would surely have an accident ! He 
 never could remember to keep to the left ! Now, 
 we simply must go on with our letters ! Begia 
 when I say three! One — two — (hurry, John, 
 you haven't dipped your pen!), three! " and 
 both commenced to write industriously. 
 
86. JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 The letters were finally finished just as the 
 tea-bell rang. Betty ran to wash her hands, 
 and then they went down to the library, where 
 tea was served every afternoon that they were 
 at home. 
 
 ' ' Why ! I quite like tea over here ! ' ' Betty re- 
 marked. ' ' I never drink it at home ! Mother 
 would be so surprised if she saw me! Do all 
 English people drink it every afternoon as you 
 do, Mrs. Pitt? " 
 
 *' Yes, it seems to go with the English people, 
 somehow. "We'd quite as soon think of doing 
 without our breakfast or dinner as our four- 
 o'clock- tea. You've noticed, my dear, how I al- 
 ways manage to get my tea at some little shop 
 when we are on one of our sight-seeing tours. 
 Really, I am quite lost without it ! Oh ! it's just 
 a habit, of course." As she spoke, Mrs. Pitt 
 poured herself another cup. 
 
 "When the tea things had been removed, and a 
 fire was lighted, stories were called for. 
 
 ' ' Tell us some of the stories you know about 
 different places and old customs, Mother," 
 urged Barbara. 
 
 ' ' Very well, ' ' said Mrs. Pitt willingly. ' ' Let 
 — me — see! You remember, don't you, having 
 
A SUNDAY NIGHT CHAT 87 
 
 the guide point out London Bridge to you, from 
 the top of St. Paul's, day before yesterday? 
 That 's the oldest bridge, you know, for it seems 
 to have existed as long ago as we know any- 
 thing of London itself. But legend has it that 
 before there was any bridge over the Thames, 
 people crossed in a ferry which was run by a 
 certain John Overs. This man naturally be- 
 came rich, as very many people were always 
 paying him for taking them across the river, but 
 he was a great miser. The ferryman had one 
 fair daughter about whom he was as miserly 
 as he was with his money, — ^keeping her shut up 
 out of reach of her lover. One day, John Overs 
 thought he would like to save the cost of pro- 
 viding food for his household, so he pretended 
 to be dead. He expected that his servants 
 would fast in consequence, as was the ancient 
 custom; but so great was their joy when they 
 thought their master dead, that they all began to 
 dance, to make merry together, and to feast 
 upon all they found in the house. The old miser 
 stood this just as long as he could, and then he 
 sprang up to lay hands upon them. The 
 servants fled, believing that it was something 
 supernatural — all except one, who, more daring 
 
88 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 than the rest, killed his master with his weapon. 
 So old John did die after all, but in an unex- 
 pected way. 
 
 " Part the second of my story tells of how 
 the monks of a neighboring abbey finally con- 
 sented to bury the body; when the abbot re- 
 turned, however, he was very angry at what 
 they had done, and gave the friars some orders. 
 They dug up the body of the poor old boatman, 
 tied it to the back of an ass, and turned the ani- 
 mal loose. The body was finally thrown off at 
 the place of public execution (directly under the 
 gallows), and there it was buried and remained. 
 Meanwhile the daughter, Mary, was having 
 more trouble. Immediately upon the death of 
 her father, she had sent for her lover, but in 
 coming to her, he had been thrown off his horse 
 and killed. This was too much for the un- 
 fortunate girl, who decided to retire to a nun- 
 nery, leaving her entire fortune to found the 
 church of ' St. Mary Overy.' That is the real 
 name of the church now known as South- 
 wark Cathedral, which stands just across 
 London Bridge. Now, how do you like that 
 story? " 
 
 * ' Great ! ' ' exclaimed John. ' ' Whoever 
 
A SUNDAY NIGHT CHAT 89 
 
 thought that up had a vivid imagination, all 
 right! " 
 
 '< Why, don't yon believe it, John? " said 
 Betty, who always took everything most seri- 
 ously. 
 
 When they were quiet again, Mrs. Pitt talked 
 on. 
 
 ' ' London Bridge, up to the time of the Great 
 Fire, was crowded with houses, you know, and 
 there was even a chapel there. Over the gate at 
 the Southwark end of the bridge, the heads of 
 traitors were exhibited on the ends of long 
 poles. Here Margaret Roper, whom you met at 
 the Tower, came, bargained for, and at last se- 
 cured the head of her father. Sir Thomas More. 
 But, to go back to the houses! Hans Holbein, 
 the painter, and John Bunyan, the poet, are 
 both said to have resided on London Bridge. 
 I also like the story which tells of a famous wine 
 merchant, named Master Abel, who had his shop 
 there. Before his door, he set up a sign on 
 which was the picture of a bell, and under it 
 were written the words, ' Thank God I am Abel.' 
 Here's a picture of old London Bridge. Imagine 
 how quaint it must have looked crowded by these 
 picturesque old houses, and with its streets 
 
90 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 filled with travelers. All those entering Lon- 
 don from the south came across that bridge, 
 which was consequently a great thoroughfare. 
 Near the Sonthwark side of the bridge is where 
 the Tabard Inn stood — the inn from which the 
 Canterbury Pilgrims set out ; and near the bank, 
 known as Bankside in those days, was the cele- 
 brated Globe Theatre, connected with Shake- 
 speare and his associates. The popular Paris 
 Grardens were there, too, where the sport of 
 bear-baiting was seen in Queen Elizabeth's time. 
 If we went over there, we could see the former 
 sites of these historic places, but they are now 
 covered by unattractive, modern buildings or 
 great breweries. It's hard to conjure up the 
 Globe Theatre out of present-day Southwark," 
 she added with a sigh, as if she were speaking 
 to herself. '' Not far from the site of the Tab- 
 ard Inn, a picturesque, gabled house once stood, 
 in which John Harvard was born. Yes, John, 
 that was the man who founded Harvard College, 
 at your American Cambridge." 
 
 '' Yes, and I mean to go there myself some 
 day! " announced John, immediately fired by 
 the familiar name of our oldest university. 
 " My father went, you know." 
 
A SUNDAY NIGHT CHAT 91 
 
 Mrs. Pitt and the two girls spent the re- 
 mainder of the evening in talking over plans for 
 the next day, hut John's thoughts had been 
 turned to college, and so he and Philip had a 
 lively time comparing notes about English and 
 American colleges. 
 
 '' Where do you mean to go, Philip? " John 
 inquired. 
 
 '* Oh, to Cambridge, of course! My father, 
 his father, and all my family for generations 
 back have been to Trinity College, Cambridge. 
 That's the largest college in England, and was 
 founded by Henry VIII. Oh, it's jolly there! 
 There are old quadrangles around which the men 
 live; there's a beautiful old chapel, built in the 
 Tudor period; and there's the dining-hall. 
 That's grand! Back of the college is the river, 
 the Cam. There's a lovely garden there, and 
 over the river on which the men go boating, is an 
 old bridge. I had a cousin who lived in the 
 rooms which Byron once occupied. He, Macau- 
 lay, Tennyson, Thackeray, Dryden, and many 
 other famous men went there. Oh, it 's the only 
 college for me ! I shall be there in three years, 
 I hope! " 
 
 " Well, Harvard's our oldest college. It was 
 
92 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 founded by your John Harvard almost as soon 
 as Boston itself, and ' Teddy ' Roosevelt went 
 there! It's good enough for me! The only 
 trouble is that they can't seem to beat at foot- 
 ball, somehow, and I mean to play and see if I 
 can't help 'em win. That's the only trouble 
 with old Harvard, though," John said, feeling 
 that he must be loyal to his college ki this inter- 
 national discussion; " otherwise she's all right! 
 There's the Stadium, where all the big games 
 are played, and there's the Charles River for us 
 to row on. There are loads of fine new build- 
 ings, too, and I'd like those better than the old 
 ones. We don't care who lived in 'em! Oh, 
 the fellows at Harvard have a splendid time ! ' ' 
 
 Mrs. Pitt had overheard some of this con- 
 versation with much amusement, for the ideas 
 and ideals of the two boys were so different, and 
 so very characteristic of each. 
 
 *' I think you'd enjoy a visit to Cambridge, 
 John," she said. '* We must try to manage it. 
 You'd find one of our colleges very unlike yours 
 in America. Both Oxford and Cambridge Uni- 
 versities are made up of many colleges, you 
 know; at Oxford, there are twenty-two, and at 
 Cambridge, eighteen. Each college has its own 
 
A SUNDAY NIGHT CHAT 93 
 
 buildings, its own professors, its own chapel 
 and dining-hall, and each college is complete in 
 itself, although they all belong to one university. 
 You would think the rules very strict! When 
 the Cambridge men go to chapel, and at other 
 specified times, they are required to wear their 
 gowns and queer little flat caps, called ' trench- 
 ers ' or ' mortar-boards.' At Oxford, the gates 
 of each college are closed at nine o'clock every 
 evening; a man may stay out later (even until 
 twelve), if he can give a good reason for it. If 
 he remains out all night, though, he is immedi- 
 ately dismissed. How would you like that? " 
 she laughed, seeing John's disgusted expression. 
 ( < There are men called ' scouts, ' who look after 
 the men's rooms, and bring them their break- 
 fast. The students are very carefully watched, 
 and if one of them stays away from his meals 
 at the dining-hall more than two or three times 
 a week, the affair is investigated." 
 
 " My! When we go to college in America, 
 we are men, and can look after ourselves ! ' ' 
 John drew himself up very straight, and spoke 
 with great dignity. ' ' Cambridge may be older 
 and have more — ^more — ' associations,' but I'd 
 rather go to Harvard." 
 
CHAPTER EIGHT 
 
 WINDSOR CASTLE, STOKE POGES, AND ETON SCHOOL 
 
 *' It's only a little more than twenty miles 
 out to Windsor, ' ' remarked Mrs. Pitt, one June 
 morning. " Suppose we go in the motor, and 
 then we can have a glimpse of both Stoke Poges 
 and Eton School, on the way." 
 
 There were always many exclamations of de- 
 light at mention of the '' motor," so it was 
 settled, and the party set out at ten o'clock, all 
 in the highest of spirits. It was slow and dif- 
 ficult driving through the city streets, but the 
 English chauffeur was quite used to keeping to 
 the left, as well as being perfectly familiar with 
 the rules which govern the traffic, so he had none 
 of the accidents which Betty and John had 
 prophesied that their father's American chauf- 
 feur would not be able to avoid. Very soon, 
 however, they had reached the suburbs, and 
 then they came into the open country. 
 
 They could go faster now, and the big touring- 
 
 94 
 
WINDSOR CASTLE 95 
 
 car sped over the wonderfully smooth roads at 
 a speed which delighted the young people. The 
 weather was proving a bit uncertain. Every 
 little while, a tiny shower descended upon them 
 out of a blue sky full of great white clouds, the 
 sun shining warm and bright all the while. 
 
 '' Oh, don't let's put up any umbrella," ex- 
 claimed Betty, during one of the showers. 
 * ' Eain never seems to do any harm in England. 
 You don't get wet, and never mind it a bit. 
 Truly, I like it, for it's so pretty to see it rain- 
 ing with the sun out. There! now, it's stopped 
 again ! Just see that lovely rainbow ! ' ' 
 
 The English country is always beautiful in its 
 individual way, but it is especially so on one of 
 these showery days, when every leaf and flower 
 looks fresher than ever with the rain-drops 
 glistening on it. Now and then, they slowed 
 down while passing through a busy town, where 
 pretty ladies and children in little two-wheeled 
 carts drove about doing the morning marketing. 
 Most of the way, however, lay through country 
 roads bordered by green-hedged fields in which 
 the ever-present sheep grazed; and here and 
 there were high brick walls over which the 
 stately, vine-covered homes were just visible. 
 
96 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 There were also picturesque little workmen's 
 cottages at the edge of the wood, and lodges cov- 
 ered with climbing-roses. 
 
 It seemed as though they had only been riding 
 a very short time when, upon emerging from a 
 shady road, they drew up at a little gateway. 
 John felt impatient at having to stop, and looked 
 questioningly around at Mrs. Pitt from his 
 place on the front seat. The others were 
 already getting out, he found, and Mrs. Pitt 
 was saying: 
 
 ' ' This is Stoke Poges, and I want you to see 
 it, for it's such a lovely spot. Probably you 
 have all learned in school parts of Gray's 
 ' Elegy,' and very likely you never cared or 
 thought much about the poem. Even if that's 
 true, you can't possibly help loving this peace- 
 ful, beautiful place, in which it was written." 
 
 They were now walking along a little path 
 which led into the church-yard. A straight 
 gravel walk stretches between the graves, up to 
 the ancient church, which is very small, and has 
 one tower closely covered with ivy. The fine 
 old Saxon porch, and one doorway show great 
 age ; but it is in the whole effect rather than in 
 any detail of the little church and its surround- 
 
The moss-grown Saxon pokch. — Page 97. 
 
STOKE POGES 97 
 
 ings that the charm lies. One cannot imagine 
 a more quiet, remote spot ! On one side is the 
 group of yew-trees which Gray mentions in the 
 poem, and in their shelter are the hoary stones 
 which mark the graves of the ' ' rude forefathers 
 of the hamlet." Standing there, one almost 
 hesitates to speak above a whisper for fear of 
 arousing something or somebody out of sleep, 
 or of breaking the wonderful spell of the place. 
 Pausing under those trees, and feasting one's 
 eyes upon the lovely, rural scene, not a sound 
 reaches the ear except the twitter of the birds, 
 and perhaps the faint jingle of a cow-bell. Mrs. 
 Pitt gave a start at the sound of John's voice, 
 when he suddenly said : 
 
 " Let's go and find Gray's tomb, Philip; the 
 guidebook says it's on the other side of the 
 church." 
 
 The rest lingered for just one more look at the 
 little church, with its vines, and the rich, dark- 
 red brick-work of the moss-grown Saxon porch, 
 which the sun touches lovingly as it filters 
 through the heavy leafage of the yew-trees ; then 
 they followed Philip and John. 
 
 Close to the outer wall of the church is a large 
 tomb in which Gray is buried with his beloved 
 
98 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 mother. No word on the slab tells that the fa- 
 mous poet is buried within; there is only his 
 mother's epitaph, which Gray wrote, and in 
 which he speaks of himself as " the only child 
 who had the misfortune to outlive her. ' ' 
 
 When Mrs. Pitt came up, John was standing 
 near the tomb with his hat off, saying, " All 
 right, Mr. Gray; I'll read your poem over again 
 just as soon as ever I get home." 
 
 The bustling, lively scenes of Eton School 
 presented a marked contrast to the quiet of 
 Stoke Poges. Moving about the grounds be- 
 tween the different school-buildings, were 
 dozens of boys all dressed in the regulation 
 Eton suit, such as Philip himself wore. They 
 were laughing, shouting, and playing games, 
 just like other boys, but such actions somehow 
 seemed out of keeping with their quaint cos- 
 tumes. From the automobile John looked down 
 upon them, his eyes full of wonder and surprise. 
 
 ** I suppose they are real boys," he said in a 
 puzzled way, '' but they don't look like them." 
 
 While Philip talked with some of his friends, 
 and John lingered near the group, the others 
 visited the beautiful Eton Chapel, and were 
 especially interested in the familiar picture of 
 
ETON SCHOOL 99 
 
 Sir Galahad, wMcli hangs there. The principal 
 buildings of the school are ranged about two 
 large courts; in the center of the Outer Quad- 
 rangle is a bronze statue of Henry VI, the 
 founder of the school. The library is valuable 
 and contains some costly books and manuscripts. 
 Fox, Peel, Chatham, "Wellington, and Shelley 
 were Eton boys, and the latter 's autograph may 
 still be seen on one of the desks. 
 
 As they left Eton and crossed the bridge over 
 the Thames, they duly admired the magnificent 
 view of Windsor Castle, which may be enjoyed 
 from that point. Above its many roofs and 
 towers stands the great round keep, the 
 oldest part of the castle, having been built by 
 Edward III. 
 
 The castle is on a hill in the center of the 
 town, and the quaint, red-roofed houses reach 
 even to its walls. After passing the statue of 
 Queen Victoria, the automobile left the party 
 at the entrance to the castle, through Henry 
 VIII 's gateway, carved with the Tudor Rose. 
 Inside, they joined a party and were shown 
 about by a guide. 
 
 They saw so many buildings that John and 
 Betty found it rather bewildering. In thinking 
 
loo JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 it over afterwards, certain objects remained 
 most clearly in their memory. 
 
 ' ' St. George 's Chapel is really the most beau- 
 tiful thing there, of course," said Betty, as they 
 rode away. '' I never saw such carving as 
 there is on the seats — ^no, stalls — in the choir! 
 Henry VIII, Jane Seymour, and poor Charles I 
 are buried there, too. I like those faded ban- 
 ners and the coats-of-arms which belonged to 
 the Knights of the Garter. The whole place is 
 lovely, I think. There are lots of little chapels 
 off from it, too, like Westminster Abbey ; didn 't 
 the guide say that the tomb of Queen Victoria's 
 father, the Duke of Kent, is there f ' ' 
 
 ' ' Yes, ' ' answered Mrs. Pitt, ' ' and I hope you 
 haven't forgotten the Albert Chapel. It adjoins 
 St. George's, you remember, and we stood in the 
 doorway when our turn came and looked in. It 
 is very old, and is on the site of an ancient 
 chapel of St. Edward, but Queen Victoria made 
 it what it is now, and restored it in honor of her 
 husband, Prince Albert. The interior is truly 
 remarkable for its fine marbles, mosaics, sculp- 
 tures, stained-glass, and precious stones. I 
 fancy they would not especially appeal to you, 
 however. How did you like the State Apart- 
 
ETON SCHOOL loi 
 
 ments? It was fortunate that the Eoyal Fam- 
 ily was not in residence, so that we could be ad- 
 mitted. ' ' 
 
 '^ Well," began John, " they made us hurry 
 so that I didn't see very much. That guide 
 drove us along as though we were a flock of 
 sheep ! I liked that big room though, where all 
 the portraits of the generals are. They called 
 it the Waterloo Eoom, didn't they? Anyway, 
 there were splendid pictures of Wellington, Met- 
 ternich, Bliicher, and lots of other fellows. Did 
 you see the busts of Wellington and Marlbor- 
 ough in one of the other rooms, Philip 1 There 
 are silk flags which hang over both the busts, 
 and that cross old guide growled out that they 
 are replaced every year on the anniversaries of 
 the two battles ; — Wellington gets a new flag on 
 June 18th, because of Waterloo in 1815, and 
 Marlborough gets his on August 13th, on ac- 
 count of the battle of Blenheim in 1704." 
 
 " In that room," explained Mrs. Pitt, *' is 
 where the ' command ' theatrical performances 
 are held. When the King hears the report of a 
 play which he thinks he would like, he simply 
 commands the company to come to him; and if 
 he happens to be at Windsor, he and the Court 
 
102 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 witness the play in the Waterloo Chamber. 
 Your American Sonsa's Band played there once. 
 I saw Betty and Barbara lingering before the 
 large picture of Charles I and his family. I 
 am glad you liked it, girls, for that's an especial 
 delight of mine. Dear little ' Baby Stuart ' is 
 so lovable ! That was in the Van Dyck Eoom, 
 which contains many of that master's works. 
 Those State Apartments are only for the use 
 of Eoyal guests, you understand, when they 
 come on visits. I always wish that we could see 
 the King or Queen's private rooms, don't you? 
 It would be so interesting. "What's your favor- 
 ite part of the castle, Barbara? " 
 
 " Oh, I like the terrace better than anything 
 else," Barbara answered, without a moment's 
 hesitation. " The view of the valley, with the 
 river and Eton Chapel in the distance, is so 
 pretty ! Then, there is something so stately and 
 impressive about the wide, long terrace itself. 
 I once read that it was Queen Elizabeth's favor- 
 ite walk, and there couldn't be a more appro- 
 priate place for a queen to choose. I like that 
 gateway with E. E. on it, showing that it was 
 built in Elizabeth's reign; and it's fun to look 
 up to the little bay-window which is said to have 
 
ETON SCHOOL 103 
 
 been her room. Then I like the old Curfew 
 Tower, too," she added. 
 
 '' Yes," broke in Mrs. Pitt. " That's one of 
 the gloomiest parts of the whole castle, in its 
 history as well as in its aspect. Of course, ter- 
 rible things happened at Windsor just as they 
 did elsewhere ; but although Windsor dates from 
 a very early period, and figures in the reigns of 
 all the sovereigns, its history contains more of 
 the bright and happy than of the tragic. Down 
 in a miserable, windowless cell in the lower part 
 of the Curfew Tower, it is wrongly said that 
 Queen Anne Boleyn was put to spend the night 
 before her execution, as you know, and there 
 still remain in the Tower some fearful instru- 
 ments of torture. The Horseshoe Cloister near 
 there, is very ancient, and the houses are de- 
 lightfully mediaeval. Did you look in some of 
 the tiny windows as we passed through? It 
 is said that in a small hall there, in the Horse- 
 shoe Cloister, Shakespeare's ' Merry Wives of 
 Windsor ' was first produced." 
 
 " Who was it that the guide told us was im- 
 prisoned near the Eound Tower, and who fell 
 in love with a lady whom he saw walking in the 
 gardens? I have forgotten the names." It 
 
104 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 was Betty who spoke, for she had been quietly 
 thinking over the visit. 
 
 *' That was young James of Scotland, whom 
 Henry V caused to be captured in time of truce, 
 and thrown into prison at Windsor, where he 
 remained almost twenty years. The English 
 treated him kindly, however, and he spent 
 his time in studying and watching the lady 
 in the garden, who afterwards became his 
 queen. ' ' 
 
 ''Oh! But, really, the stables are best of 
 all! " exclaimed Philip, who loved horses like a 
 true Briton. " I do like to go there and be 
 shown about by one of those men in the black 
 suits and yellow vests, and the bright cockades 
 in their silk hats. Once when I was little, one 
 of them let me go into a stall and feed some 
 sugar to a splendid great horse named Black 
 Beauty. I wished I could do it to-day, too ! All 
 the carriages which carry the Court ladies are 
 stupid, I think, but the horses and ponies are 
 jolly! " whereupon Philip and John went off 
 into an animated discussion about the horses of 
 the Royal Stables, and how much they envied 
 the men who cared for them. 
 
 ** Oh, what a sweet little village! " cried 
 
ETON SCHOOL 105 
 
 Betty, jumping up excitedly, as the automobile 
 slowed down and entered a little narrow lane. 
 
 Chalfont St. Giles is an extremely pic- 
 turesque, old-time village. Its thatched-roofed 
 cottages huddle together in a beautiful green 
 valley, and about the edge of a pond where ducks 
 swim, and happy, barefooted children play. One 
 of the old houses is a place of interest to many, 
 as the great poet, John Milton, lived there after 
 he fled from London at the time of the plague. 
 
 The poet's home is a most primitive cottage 
 with low ceilings, and a little dark room, lighted 
 by one casement window, in which he may have 
 written part of ^' Paradise Lost." When 
 standing in that chamber, one is reminded of the 
 well-known picture which shows the blind Mil- 
 ton dictating one of his poems to a daughter. 
 Outside is a delightful old-fashioned garden in 
 which the largest and reddest of poppies grow, 
 and where it is said that Milton loved to linger. 
 
 " I wish we needn't hurry," sighed Mrs. Pitt, 
 '' but I'm afraid we'll be late to dinner. See, 
 we are short of time already ! " 
 
 So they quickly took their seats again for the 
 short trip back to town, and drew their wraps 
 about them, as the air had grown chilly. They 
 
io6 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 all felt rather tired, and were silent as they re- 
 viewed in mind the history and scenes of Wind- 
 sor Castle, one of the most beautiful and cer- 
 tainly the most famous of English royal resi- 
 dences. 
 
CHAPTEE NINE 
 
 MORE ABOUT LONDON 
 
 ** Big Ben," tlie great bell on the clock- tower, 
 was just booming ten deep strokes as onr party 
 neared the Houses of Parliament. A steadily 
 rushing stream of people, buses, hansoms, and 
 trucks (not forgetting bicycles, which are still 
 numerous in England), was pouring across 
 Westminster Bridge, and swinging around the 
 comer into the wide street called Whitehall; 
 but in the near vicinity of the graceful, long 
 building, with its pinnacles and spires, in which 
 the English laws are made, all was quiet and few 
 people were moving about. In a square court 
 from which steps lead down to the river, a sen- 
 tinel was pacing back and forth. 
 
 " In the days when the Thames was the most 
 used highway of the Londoners, here was prob- 
 ably one of the places where the nobles could 
 
 step on shore from their luxurious barges." 
 
 107 
 
io8 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Mrs. Pitt said this as they were looking down 
 upon the soldier from the street above. 
 
 Close up against one side of the Houses of 
 Parliament is Westminster Hall, with its quaint 
 row of supporting buttresses. This ancient 
 edifice was built by William Eufus, the son of 
 the Conqueror himself. Having entered by St. 
 Stephen's Porch, the usual approach, they went 
 down a few steps at the left into this fine old 
 room. It is empty now, and its vastness is 
 unadorned except by some statues of kings and 
 queens along the sides. 
 
 '' This hall," stated Mrs. Pitt, " was first be- 
 gun by William Rufus, but it has been restored 
 and added to at various times by many of the 
 other sovereigns. It also formed part of the 
 ancient Palace of Westminster. I want you to 
 notice especially the oak roof with its heavy 
 timbers, and unsupported by any columns. 
 It is considered very fine in its construction, and 
 I think it beautiful, as well. Have you the 
 guidebook, Philip? Read to us some of the 
 great events of the hall while we stand here. ' ' 
 
 So Philip began. ' ' Well, some of the earliest 
 meetings of Parliament were held here; also, 
 all the kings as far down the line as George IV 
 
MORE ABOUT LONDON 109 
 
 have celebrated their coronation feasts in this 
 hall. Here Charles I was tried and condemned 
 (there's a brass in the floor which marks where 
 he stood at the trial), and here Cromwell in 
 royal purple robes was received as Lord Pro- 
 tector. Some of the others who were tried here 
 are William Wallace, the Scotch patriot, Sir 
 Thomas More, Sir Thomas Wyatt, Guy Fawkes, 
 and the Earls of Essex and Strafford. Until 
 very recently the Law Courts adjoined here." 
 
 *' Thank you, Philip; now, if you are ready, 
 Betty, we'll go on and see something more of 
 this great building. ' ' 
 
 It gives one a slight idea of the extent of the 
 huge structure to know that therein are one hun- 
 dred stairways and eleven hundred rooms ! Vis- 
 itors are shown the '' King's Eobing-room, " the 
 '' Victoria or Royal Gallery," the " Prince's 
 Chamber," and so many rooms and corridors, 
 that it is impossible to remember them all, or 
 even to appreciate them at the time of a visit. 
 Fine wall paintings, statues, and rich decora- 
 tions of all kinds abound. Both the rooms where 
 sit the House of Peers and the House of Com- 
 mons, respectively, are magnificent apartments ; 
 perhaps the former is rather more splendid in 
 
no JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 appearance, with its stained-glass windows pic- 
 turing all the English sovereigns, its frescoes, 
 and throne, with the gilded canopy. 
 
 As they finally passed out and started over 
 toward Westminster Abbey, Mrs. Pitt said: 
 
 " It was at one of these entrances (perhaps at 
 the very one by which we just left), that a most 
 curious thing happened in 1738. It had just been 
 decided that ladies should no longer be permit- 
 ted in the galleries of the Houses. Certain 
 noble dames who were most indignant at this 
 new rule, presented themselves in a body at the 
 door. They were, of course, politely refused 
 admission, and having tried every known means 
 of gaining entrance, they remained at the door 
 all day, kicking and pounding from time to time. 
 Finally, one of them thought of the following 
 plan. For some time they stood there in per- 
 fect quiet ; some one within opened a door to see 
 if they were really gone, whereupon they all 
 rushed in. They remained in the galleries un- 
 til the ' House rose,' laughing and tittering so 
 loudly that Lord Hervey made a great failure of 
 his speech. Wasn't that absurd? It seems that 
 there were ' Suffragettes ' long before the twen- 
 tieth century." 
 
MORE ABOUT LONDON 1 1 1 
 
 Arrived at tlie Poets' Corner once again, they 
 found that on© of the vergers was just about 
 to conduct a party '' in behind the scenes," as 
 Barbara called it. '' Behind the scenes " in- 
 cludes the Chapel of Henry VII and that of 
 Edward the Confessor, besides the many smaller 
 ones which surround the choir. 
 
 These little irregular chapels are crowded 
 with all sorts of tombs, from those of the long 
 effigy to those of the high canopy. Sometimes a 
 husband and wife are represented on the tomb, 
 their figures either kneeling side by side, or 
 facing each other. Often the sons and daugh- 
 ters of the deceased are shown in quaint little 
 reliefs extending all around the four sides of a 
 monument. The figures are of alabaster or 
 marble, and there are frequently fine brasses 
 on them which bear the inscriptions. It is inter- 
 esting to remember that the effigy or reclin- 
 ing figure of a Crusader always has the legs 
 crossed. 
 
 A flight of black marble steps leads up to 
 Henry VII 's Chapel. Betty thought this re- 
 minded her a little of the choir of St. George's 
 Chapel at Windsor, — and it is true that the two 
 are somewhat similar. To build this memorial 
 
112 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 to himself, Henry YU tore down another chapel, 
 and also an old house in which the poet Chaucer 
 once lived. The loveliest feature of this chapel 
 is the ' ' fan-tracery ' ' of the ceiling. Its delicacy 
 and grace are very beautiful ! There are won- 
 derfully carved oak choir-stalls here also, each 
 having been assigned to a certain Knight of the 
 Order of the Bath, and decorated with the 
 Ejiight's armorial bearings. Above each stall 
 is a sword and a banner of faded colors. The 
 tomb of the founder, Henry VII, and of his 
 wife, Elizabeth of York, is in the center of 
 the chapel, and surrounded by a brass screen. 
 George II and several members of his family, 
 Edward VI, Charles II, William and Mary, 
 Queen Anne and her consort, and Crom- 
 well, are all buried near by — most of them 
 having no monuments. In the north aisle of this 
 chapel is the tomb of the great Queen Elizabeth, 
 and just opposite it, in the south aisle, is that 
 of her cousin and enemy, poor Mary Queen of 
 Scots. 
 
 Just behind the high altar is the chapel of 
 Edward the Confessor, containing the once 
 splendid, mediaeval tomb of that sainted King. 
 Its precious stones have been stolen away now, 
 
MORE ABOUT LONDON 113 
 
 and the whole is covered by a gorgeous cloth put 
 there at the coronation of Edward VII. 
 
 '' I've seen the tombs of so many kings and 
 queens, ' ' exclaimed John, heaving a sigh, ' ' that 
 I truly can't take in any more. Why, they're 
 so thick all around here that you can't move 
 without bumping into three or four of 'em! 
 There's Henry V, and overhead the shield and 
 helmet he used at Agincourt ; and here's Edward 
 I, and Eichard II, and Edward III, and Queen 
 Eleanor, and Queen Philippa. Who was she? 
 Oh, here's the old Coronation Chair, isn't 
 it? " At sight of this, he once more became 
 interested. 
 
 This famous old chair was made in the time of 
 Edward I, and every English sovereign since 
 that day has been crowned in it. Underneath 
 the seat of the chair is kept the ancient Stone 
 of Scone, which is said to have been used as a 
 pillow by the patriarch Jacob. Edward I, in 
 1297, brought the stone from Scotland as a sign 
 of his power over that country, and placed it in 
 the Abbey. King Edward Ill's sword and 
 shield-of-state stand beside the chair. There is 
 something about these three objects which 
 makes one stand long before them. They are so 
 
114 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 ancient — so deeply impressive — and embody so 
 much of English history itself. 
 
 In a little room above one of the smaller 
 chapels are found the curious Wax Effigies. 
 These figures made of wax, and of life size, 
 were carried at funerals, and were intended to 
 look like the deceased, and dressed in their 
 clothes. They are very ghastly, robed in their 
 faded, torn garments, as each peers out from its 
 glass-case. Queen Elizabeth, Charles II, 
 William and Mary, Queen Anne, General Monk, 
 William Pitt, and Lord Nelson are among those 
 represented. 
 
 Betty stood before the figure of Queen Eliza- 
 beth, whose waxen face is pinched and worn, 
 and really most horrible to look at. 
 
 '^ Didn't she die propped up on the floor in all 
 her State robes 1 ' ' asked Betty. 
 
 '' Yes," was Mrs. Pitt's reply. " It isn't 
 any wonder that she looked like that, is it I She 
 is said to have been beautiful in her youth, but 
 later, she became so very ugly that her ladies-in- 
 waiting got false looking-glasses, for they didn't 
 dare to allow their mistress to see her 
 wrinkles. ' ' 
 
 After lingering for a short time in the grand 
 
Oh, here's the old Coronation Chair, isn't it?" — Page 113. 
 
MORE ABOUT LONDON 115 
 
 old Abbey, they all mounted a bus and rode 
 down to Bishopsgate Street to take lunch at 
 Crosby Hall.* This splendid old example of a 
 London mediaeval palace (having had a varied 
 career since its great days), is now turned into 
 a restaurant, and our party took seats at a long 
 table in what was once the Banqueting-hall. 
 
 '' This is really a very historic old house," 
 declared Mrs. Pitt. '' It was built in 1470 by 
 Alderman Sir John Crosby, who died about the 
 time it was finished, and it passed into the hands 
 of the Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard 
 III. Here, that cruel man had the news of the 
 successful murder of the little Princes in the 
 Tower, and here held his great feasts — in this 
 room, I suppose." 
 
 They were all looking about at the lofty hall 
 with its carved oak ceiling, minstrels' gallery, 
 stained-glass windows, and large fireplace. 
 
 *' This has recently all been restored, and I 
 suppose it gives us a very slight idea of its past 
 glory. Later on. Sir Thomas More lived here, 
 and then Philip Sidney's sister, the Countess of 
 
 * Crosby Hall was taken down in 1908, but is soon to 
 be re-erect6d in Chelsea, near the site of the home of Sir 
 Thomas More. 
 
ii6 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Pembroke, owned it. Shakespeare mentions it 
 in his play of ' Richard III,' you know. In 
 mediseval times, there were many great houses 
 in London (Baynard's Castle and Cold Harbour 
 foremost among them), but all except a little 
 part of Crosby Hall have disappeared. The 
 owners of these houses, the wealthy nobles, lived 
 in great magnificence, having four, six, or even 
 eight hundred servants. Just fancy how large 
 the establishments must have been! In Queen 
 Elizabeth's day, the French Ambassador was 
 lodged here with four hundred retainers. At 
 that time, there were more great palaces in 
 London than there were in Verona, Florence, 
 Venice, and Genoa, all counted together ; but in- 
 stead of being situated on the Grand Canal or 
 in a spacious square, the English palaces stood 
 in narrow, filthy streets, surrounded by the poor 
 hovels of the common people. — It seems to me 
 that our lunch is a long time coming, ' ' she com- 
 mented. 
 
 Adjoining Crosby Hall is a very interesting 
 church — St. Helen's, which has been called the 
 '^ Westminster Abbey of the City," because of 
 famous citizens of " the City," who are buried 
 there. Among them is Sir Thomas Gresham, 
 
MORE ABOUT LONDON 117 
 
 tlie great mercliaut of Queen Elizabeth's reign, 
 wIlo founded the Eoyal Exchange, and did much 
 to increase London's trade. The church — dat- 
 ing mostly from the thirteenth to the fifteenth 
 century — is very quaint and old. It consists 
 of two parallel naves, divided by pillars. 
 
 ' ' The church was once connected with an an- 
 cient nunnery which covered the whole square 
 outside. The naves were originally quite sep- 
 arated by a partition ; one side was used by the 
 nuns, and the other by the regular members of 
 the parish. Shakespeare once lived in St. 
 Helen's parish, and is charged up on the church 
 books with a sum of something over five 
 pounds." Mrs. Pitt gave this information as 
 they walked about, gradually growing accus- 
 tomed to the dim light. 
 
 ' ' See here, John, ' ' whispered Philip ; ' ' here 's 
 something interesting. It's this little square 
 hole in the wall, which is called the ' nuns' 
 squint.' That woman, whom I suppose is the 
 caretaker, has just been telling me what that 
 means. You see, the nunnery was on this side, 
 or, at any rate, the part where the nuns slept. 
 When a nun was dying, the rest would carry her 
 "to that little ' squint,' and in that way she 
 
ii8 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 could look througli to the cliurcli and see the 
 altar.'* 
 
 Leaving St. Helen's Place, and passing the 
 picturesque, narrow fagade (or front) of Crosby 
 Hall, Mrs. Pitt took them along Cheapside, one 
 of the most crowded streets of the city. The 
 amount of traffic is tremendous there, and it is 
 said that sometimes teams are held eight hours 
 in the alleys before they can get out. They 
 noted Bow Church, and the site of John Gilpin's 
 house at the corner of Paternoster Eow. 
 
 " Oh, is that the John Gilpin in Cowper's 
 poem? " cried John, excitedly. " He lived here, 
 did he? And where did he ride to? " 
 
 " I believe he went out through Tottenham 
 and Edmonton. Mrs. Gilpin was at the Bell 
 Inn at Edmonton when she saw her husband fly 
 by. Over the entrance at the Bell is such a 
 funny picture of the scene! They don't know 
 just where he went, do they, Mother? " inquired 
 Barbara. 
 
 " No, I rather think not," was Mrs. Pitt's 
 laughing answer. " Let's walk through Pater- 
 noster Eow, now. The little bookshops are so 
 old and quaint! For centuries the booksellers 
 have been loyal to this locality, but I hear that 
 
MORE ABOUT LONDON 119 
 
 they are beginning to move elsewhere now. 
 Here's Amen Comer, and Ave Maria Lane is 
 not far away. In London, there's a reason for 
 the name of almost every street. The monks, in 
 walking from the river to St. Paul's, used to be 
 telling their beads and reciting their prayers 
 all the while. You see, the Ave Maria was said 
 at this point, and back at the corner came an 
 Amen. In olden days, the makers of rosaries 
 and paternosters had their shops in the little 
 street we have just left, as well as the book- 
 sellers. The streets leading off Cheapside show 
 what business was carried on there; for in- 
 stance, on the south side are Bread, Candles, 
 Soap, Fish, and Money-changing; and on the 
 north side are Wood, Milk, Iron, Honey, and 
 Poultry. By the by, the poet Milton was born 
 in Bread Street. The ironmongers congregated 
 in Ironmongers Lane; the vintners or wine- 
 merchants were in the Vintry; and the makers 
 of hosiery in Hosiery Lane. Now we'll go to 
 Chancery Lane, and pay a short visit to the Rec- 
 ord Office, for there are some things there which 
 I want you to see. ' ' 
 
 The Public Record Office is a modem build- 
 ing, constructed for the purpose of keeping the 
 
I20 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 valuable State documents and archives, which, 
 during the present reign, have been moved from 
 the Tower and the Chapter House of Westmin- 
 ster Abbey. The different departments of gov- 
 ernment are continually handing over to the 
 Eecord Office papers which are no longer needed 
 for daily use. Among the intensely interesting 
 treasures of this museum are the logbooks of 
 the Eoyal Navy, and dispatches from Marlbor- 
 ough, Wellington, and others. There are State 
 papers of Wolsey, and Thomas Cromwell, and 
 letters of all the kings and queens, as well as of 
 Chaucer, the Black Prince, Ealeigh at the 
 Tower, Lady Jane Grey as Queen, Sir Philip 
 Sidney on his death-bed, and many, many others 
 of equal interest. 
 
 " Why, you'd need a whole week to see all 
 these!" exclaimed Betty, looking up from her 
 examination of a paper containing the con- 
 fessions of Guy Fawkes. 
 
 Mrs. Pitt glanced at her quickly. She was 
 excited, and her face was flushed. 
 
 ** Yes, and we must not stay any longer, for 
 we have seen enough for one day. I want to 
 show you just one more thing before we go, 
 however, and this is more wonderful than 
 
MORE ABOUT LONDON 121 
 
 all the rest. See, it is the great Doomsday 
 Book! " 
 
 Carefully kept under glass, in cases furnished 
 with dark shades to pull over when the books 
 are not being examined,, are the two large vol- 
 umes of what is known as the " Doomsday 
 Book." On the ancient, yellowed parchment 
 pages, and in strange old characters, are the rec- 
 ords, made at the time of William the Con- 
 queror, of the disposal of the lands of England 
 among his Norman nobles. It is simply impos- 
 sible to believe that it is authentic, — that such a 
 very ancient relic really can exist! 
 
 They soon felt tired and ready to leave any 
 further examination of the papers until another 
 visit, however. There are times when all sight- 
 seers, no matter how enthusiastic, come to a 
 point where for that day they can appreciate no 
 more. So our party adjourned to a little tea- 
 shop in Eegent Street, and afterwards, to make 
 a few purchases at that fascinating shop, — Lib- 
 erty's. 
 
CHAPTER TEN 
 
 EICHMOND AND HAMPTON COTJBT PALACE 
 
 " Well, I really don't care nrncli how long the 
 boat is in coming," exclaimed Betty delightedly. 
 " It's such fun to watch all the other boats go- 
 ing up and down the river, and to look up at 
 busy Westminster Bridge! " 
 
 Our friends were at the little landing in the 
 shadow of the above-mentioned bridge, awaiting 
 the arrival of the steamer which was to carry 
 them to Kew Gardens. It was early morning, 
 and the distant roar of the traffic from the great 
 bridge above reached them together with the 
 shrill whistles of all the different river craft. 
 
 ' * Hey ! There goes Sir Walter Raleigh under 
 the bridge there! I can see the name just as 
 plainly! And, — ^well I never! — ^there come 
 Lady Jane Grey and Sir Thomas More! Do all 
 the boats have names like that? Wonder how 
 the great people would like it if they knew ! Sir 
 Thomas is an express; he's on official business 
 
 122 
 
RICHMOND 123 
 
 this morning, and isn't going to stop! Now! 
 here comes Queen Elizabeth herself! Nothing 
 less than a queen for me! I hope we'll take 
 her ! ' ' John cried excitedly. 
 
 The Queen Elizabeth did prove to be the 
 Kew and Hampton Court boat, so when the 
 gangway was put across, the five went on board 
 and took some comfortable seats in the bow. 
 
 ^' Now, there are a number of things which I 
 wish to point out to you right away, ' ' remarked 
 Mrs, Pitt, " so please be very attentive for a 
 few moments. Just as soon as we are started 
 and go under Westminster Bridge here, you will 
 have the most beautiful view of the Houses of 
 Parliament, on your right. There ! See if the 
 great building isn't graceful from here! And 
 isn't its river-front imposing with all the statues 
 of the sovereigns ! 
 
 " Now! Quickly! Look to the left, and see 
 the building with the gate-way and square, 
 blackened towers and battlements. That's 
 Lambeth Palace, ' ' she added, * * which has been 
 the residence of the Archbishops of Canterbury 
 (or the ' Primates of England,' as they are 
 called) for six hundred years. It 's a delightful 
 old place, with its fine library, and its several 
 
124 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 court-yards! It's very Mstoric as well, for in 
 one of those towers, according to some people, 
 the Lollards or followers of the religious re- 
 former, Wycliff e, are said to have been tortured. 
 Queen Elizabeth's favorite, the unfortunate 
 Earl of Essex, was imprisoned there, too. 
 
 " Here on our left was the famous amuse- 
 ment-park, Vauxhall, which was so popular in 
 the eighteenth century. Some day when you 
 read Thackeray's novels you will find it men- 
 tioned. There on the right is Chelsea, where 
 was Sir Thomas More's home. I think his 
 grounds bordered on the river, and he used to 
 walk down to the bank, step into his boat, and 
 his son would row him to the city. At his house 
 there he was often visited by Henry VIII, Hol- 
 bein, and the great Dutch scholar, Erasmus. 
 Just behind those trees is Cheyne Walk, where 
 Thomas Carlyle's house still stands. (There's 
 the old Chelsea Church, which is most interest- 
 ing, and Chelsea Hospital for old pensioners.) 
 There have been many famous residents of 
 Chelsea in more recent days; among them 
 George Eliot, the great novelist, who died there ; 
 Edward Burne- Jones, the artist; Eossetti, the 
 poet; Swinburne, Meredith, and Whistler. 
 
RICHMOND 125 
 
 There ! now I'll leave you in peace to enjoy your 
 boat-ride, and the music." 
 
 They now came to a part of the river which 
 is neither especially historic nor attractive, and 
 the young people amused themselves for a while 
 in talking, or listening to the rather crude music 
 of some old musicians on the boat. It was not 
 long, however, before the banks again became 
 green and beautiful, and they passed odd little 
 villages, and comfortable country-houses, whose 
 smooth terraces slope down to the river. On 
 the arrival of the boat at Kew, they went on 
 shore and walked towards the celebrated 
 Gardens. 
 
 ^ ' Have Kew Gardens any story or history to 
 them, or are they just famous because of their 
 flowers'? " inquired Betty, as they passed 
 through the gate-way, and caught glimpses of 
 bright blossoms within. 
 
 " Oh, rather! " replied Mrs. Pitt. '' You'll 
 find plenty of history about here, Betty. Let's 
 look at the flowers first, though." 
 
 Kew Gardens are most immaculately cared 
 for. Wide gravel-paths stretch between the 
 wonderful lawns, which are dotted with flower- 
 beds of all shapes. There are hot-houses con- 
 
126 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 taining tropical plants, and in the " Eock Gar- 
 den " is a pond wliere there are pelicans and 
 other strange water birds. The party spent an 
 hour very happily in wandering about, admiring 
 the beautiful views as they went. Best of all 
 were the rhododendrons, which were glorious at 
 this season in their riot of pink, deep rose color, 
 and lavender. Betty, who dearly loved flowers, 
 could hardly be enticed away from that fasci- 
 nating spot, and was only persuaded at mention 
 of the old palace, which she had not yet seen. 
 
 "When she reached it, she was rather disap- 
 pointed. Kew Palace is not large, and al- 
 together, is quite unlike a palace, although it 
 was the favorite residence of George HI and his 
 queen, who died there in 1818. 
 
 '* It just looks like any old red-brick Tudor 
 house, which hasn't any history at all. Even 
 its rooms are all empty, and it isn't the kind of 
 a palace I like! " Betty declared in injured 
 tones. 
 
 " Well, cheer up, Betty; we're going to 
 Hampton Court Palace soon, and I guess that'll 
 suit you all right. Is this where we take the 
 tram, Mrs. Pitt? There's one coming now! " 
 John ran out into the road and gesticulated 
 
RICHMOND 127 
 
 frantically, so that the motorman would be sure 
 to stop. That dignified English personage 
 looked rather surprised, but John did not care. 
 He liked to take the lead, and to make himself 
 useful whenever it was possible. 
 
 The ride was not quite as enjoyable as they 
 had hoped, because of a very high wind. Upon 
 their perch at the top of the tram, it required 
 about all their attention to keep their hats and 
 other belongings from blowing away. On the 
 whole, they were quite content to get off at the 
 bridge at Richmond, and walk up the long hill 
 to the famous Star and Garter Inn. 
 
 " This hill seems longer than ever to-day, 
 Mother," Barbara complained. '' When we 
 reach that lovely surprise view (you know where 
 I mean), let's sit down and admire it while we 
 rest a bit. ' ' 
 
 << Very well, we will," her mother panted; 
 *' we're nearly there now." 
 
 The view to which Barbara and her mother 
 referred proved to be really very beautiful. On 
 one side of the hill is a little park from which 
 a precipice descends to the river. Looking 
 through an opening in the luxuriant foliage of 
 the trees (an opening which takes the place of a 
 
128 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 picture-frame), one sees a glorious view of the 
 green valley below, through which the lazy 
 Thames winds dreamily ; and if the day is clear, 
 Windsor Castle may just be discerned in the 
 distance. 
 
 ' ' Philip, you and John go and engage one of 
 those drivers over opposite the hotel, to take us 
 for a little drive in the Park; as soon as I 
 order our luncheon, I'll be out again to go 
 along." With that, Mrs. Pitt disappeared for 
 a few moments into the Star and Garter. 
 
 Richmond Park is a favorite resort for tour- 
 ists, and driving and bicycle parties. It con- 
 tains some fine old trees, and a great many deer 
 which add to its attractiveness. Mrs. Pitt di- 
 rected the coachman not to drive about much, 
 however, but to show them two points of in- 
 terest. 
 
 " This is the ' King's Mound,' " she observed, 
 as the horses slowed down. " Yes, that little 
 low mound of earth just this side of the clump 
 of trees. I'll admit that it looks uninteresting 
 enough ; but it is known as the spot where Henry 
 VIII stood while listening for the sound of the 
 gun at the Tower, which told him of the execu- 
 tion of Anne Boleyn." 
 
RICHMOND 129 
 
 '^ Ugh! " Betty interposed, in disgusted 
 tones, giving a little shudder. " Think how he 
 must have felt ! Horrid old thing ! ' ' 
 
 ' ' Don 't be silly, Betty ! ' ' retorted John. * ' I 
 guess a little thing like that wouldn't trouble 
 him! " 
 
 Almost in the center of the Park is a house 
 called White Lodge, which has long been a royal 
 residence. It is approached by an avenue, 
 which was the scene of Jeanie Deans 's interview 
 with Queen Caroline, as Scott describes it in his 
 " Heart of Midlothian." 
 
 Their lunch was quickly over, and they were 
 again on their way down the long hill. In the 
 town of Richmond, they mounted another 
 tram for the forty-minute ride to Hampton 
 Court. 
 
 " If we only had had a bit more time," Mrs. 
 Pitt apologized, '' I should have shown you 
 what still remains of the famous old palace of 
 Richmond. Henry VIII and Elizabeth both 
 held their courts there often, and there the latter 
 died in 1603. The palace was destroyed by 
 order of Parliament in 1649 ; only a small part 
 of it was spared, and in that the widow of 
 Charles I, poor Queen Henrietta Maria, was al- 
 
130 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 lowed to live. Are you getting plenty of his- 
 tory, Betty, my dear? " 
 
 *' Oh, yes, bnt I'm always ready for more," 
 smiled that young lady in response. 
 
 The tram set them down very near the great 
 palace of Hampton Court. They went quickly 
 through the entrance-gates of wrought iron, and 
 walked towards the building itself. This West 
 Front is as Wolsey left it, and is made of the 
 old crimson bricks, with here and there a black 
 one. Passing under the gatehouse, they came 
 into the Green or Base Court, and here they 
 paused to look about them. 
 
 " You'll remember that the great and power- 
 ful Cardinal Wolsey built Hampton Court,'* 
 suggested Mrs. Pitt. ' ' He lived in regal state, 
 and had almost as large a retinue of servants 
 and followers as the King himself. To gratify 
 his great love for splendor and luxury, he built 
 this magnificent residence for himself. He was 
 in need of a home a little removed from the city, 
 where he could rest and enjoy the fresh air. 
 Yet it was also accessible to London, for he 
 could be rowed up the river in his barge. Wol- 
 sey 's two great ambitions — ^wealth and power 
 — ^were both gratified, and for a while all went 
 
HAMPTON COURT PALACE 131 
 
 well; but time brought the King's displeasure, 
 and it was he who took possession at Hampton 
 Court after the complete disgrace which led 
 to the death of the Cardinal. Henry VIII tore 
 down some of Wolsey's buildings, and put up 
 new ones in their stead; and other monarchs 
 added portions also ; for instance, the huge State 
 Apartments were erected under the supervision 
 of Sir Christopher Wren, and by order of King 
 William III. We shall see all these later on. 
 Have you noticed those little oriel windows of 
 the gatehouse ? They are the originals of Wol- 
 sey's palace, and I think this court here is also 
 much the same as he built it. In his day there 
 were pretty latticed windows in these surround- 
 ing buildings, a grass plot in the center, and 
 around these narrow passages Wolsey probably 
 rode on his ass." 
 
 ' ' Ass ! ' ' cried John. * ' What for? With all 
 his money, couldn't he even have a horse? " 
 
 ''Oh, rather!" Mrs. Pitt laughed. "No 
 doubt Wolsey would have liked one, but he was 
 wise enough to always follow custom in such 
 matters as had to do with his outward appear- 
 ance and attitude. All religious men rode on 
 asses ; it was the habit of the day. Now, come 
 
132 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 this way, and see the Great Hall. Oh, Philip 1 
 Please fetch me my mnbrella; I left it on the 
 step in the court, there ! ' ' 
 
 Leading into the second or Clock Court, is 
 Anne Boleyn's gateway. Under this is a broad 
 flight of stairs which takes one to the Great Hall, 
 erected by Henry VIII, probably on the site of 
 Wolsey's earlier hall. It is a grand old room 
 with a fine timber roof, and complete with its 
 dais or raised platform at the end, its minstrels ' 
 gallery over the entrance doors, its old tapes- 
 tries, stags' heads, and suits of armor, and its 
 windows mostly filled with modem stained- 
 glass. Out of the hall are two smaller apart- 
 ments, which also contain good tapestries. 
 From here, the visitor again descends to Anne 
 Boleyn's Gateway. 
 
 *' What a funny old clock! " exclaimed Betty, 
 spying it, up above on the tower under which 
 they had just passed. '■ ' It seems to be so mixed 
 up, somehow, that I can't tell the time by it." 
 
 ''It is curious! It's Henry VIII's Astro- 
 nomical Clock ; it has all sorts of appliances and 
 strange attachments. That's why you can't 
 read it. It was recently repaired and set going 
 again. ' ' 
 
HAMPTON COURT PALACE 133 
 
 *' The King's Grand Staircase " is broad, 
 stately, and quite as impressive as its name, and 
 this leads to the pompous State Apartments. 
 These great square rooms, one opening out of 
 another, seemed endless to the young people, 
 and contained no attractions for them. The 
 walls are covered with pictures, some of which 
 are fine, but there are so many which are very 
 similar that even Sir Peter Lely, Holbein, and 
 Van Dyck become hopelessly tiresome. These 
 rooms also contain some old furniture which is 
 interesting, but on the whole, the best thing 
 about them is the ever charming view of the gar- 
 dens from the windows. The visitor may enter 
 one tiny room called '" Wolsey's Closet," which 
 is deeply impressive with its paneled walls and 
 ancient ceiling. The very atmosphere of the 
 sixteenth century still seems to linger here, and 
 one can easily believe that nothing herein has 
 been changed since the great Cardinal used it 
 daily. Near this is a long gallery which is 
 supposed to be haunted by the ghost of Queen 
 Catharine Howard. After the dullness of the 
 State Apartments, this possessed great interest 
 for the boys, and they lingered here as long 
 as Mrs. Pitt would allow. They were forced to 
 
134 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 come away disappointed, however, without hav- 
 ing heard even one little scream. 
 
 " Yon'd better spend the night here, John," 
 remarked Philip, in teasing tones. *' That's 
 the proper time to see and hear ghosts." John 
 decided not to wait, however. 
 
 Of all the one thousand rooms of the great 
 palace, they saw only one more, and that was 
 Henry VIII 's Gothic Chapel, gorgeous in its fine 
 carving and gilding, and in which the mag- 
 nificent ceremony of the baptism of Prince Ed- 
 ward, afterwards Edward VI, was held. 
 
 The gardens of Hampton Court are perhaps 
 better known and enjoyed than the palace itself. 
 They are very extensive, and are laid out in the 
 French style. Directly before the long front 
 of William Ill's addition, is a great round basin 
 with a fountain, and beyond stretches the 
 " Long Canal," — a straight and narrow arti- 
 ficial pond, bordered by very beautiful trees. 
 Then there is the " Home Park " on either side 
 of the canal; here Henry VIH and Catharine 
 Howard probably wandered often during their 
 long honeymoon at Hampton Court; and here 
 William III was riding on the day when he 
 was thrown from his horse and killed. 
 
HAMPTON COURT PALACE 135 
 
 There is what is called the " Wilderness," — 
 in reality a maze — ^which was greatly enjoyed 
 by the party; and nearer the palace, again, is the 
 tennis-court, where that game has been played 
 for three centuries and a half. Some of the 
 players here have been Henry VIII, the Earl of 
 Leicester, Charles I, Charles II, and the 
 present King, Edward VII, when he was Prince 
 of Wales. 
 
 ^' And didn't that American, Pettitt, play 
 here? " inquired John. '' He won the World's 
 Championship in England, you know. Yes, I 
 thought it was here, though the word Hampton 
 Court never meant much to me before to- 
 day." 
 
 There is still the remarkable Hampton Court 
 Vine, the fame of which has spread so far. The 
 vine fills a whole greenhouse, and one of its 
 branches is a hundred and fourteen feet long. 
 The attendant told Betty that the crop consists 
 of about eight hundred bunches, each one weigh- 
 ing a pound. Having duly marveled at this, 
 they explored Queen Mary's lovely bower or 
 arbor, where that Queen used to sit with her 
 ladies at the tapestry-frames. 
 
 ** Dear me, let's go back now! " said Betty. 
 
136 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 "I'm sure we've been miles over these 
 grounds. ' ' 
 
 So they walked along the paths where Henry 
 VIII made love to Anne Boleyn and Catharine 
 Howard, where Queen Elizabeth took her morn- 
 ing walks, and where Pope, Swift, Addison, and 
 Walpole wandered in more recent days. 
 
 '' I think I haven't mentioned Cromwell to 
 you in connection with Hampton Court, but he 
 must not be forgotten, for he came here after he 
 was made Protector, and lived with as much 
 pomp and splendor as any king. Every time I 
 visit this palace I marvel at the amount of his- 
 tory with which it is connected, and at the num- 
 ber of scenes for which it was the setting ! ' ' 
 
 As she spoke, Mrs. Pitt was leading the way 
 to the railroad-station. A London train came 
 along very soon, fortunately, but they ran up 
 and down in vain looking for seats in their cus- 
 tomary third-class compartment. These were 
 all crowded, the following day being a '' bank 
 holiday," so when the guard at last came to 
 their rescue, he put them in a first-class com- 
 partment. This greatly interested John and 
 Betty, as they had not seen one before. 
 
 '' It isn't so very different, after all," com- 
 

 
HAMPTON COURT PALACE 137 
 
 merited Betty. V The cushions are a little nicer, 
 and there's carpet on the floor, but that's the 
 only change from an ordinary third-class car- 
 riage. ' ' 
 
 " I know it," said Philip. '' And most Eng- 
 lish people never think of traveling first-class 
 except on a long journey; for it really is very 
 little better, and the price is so ruinously dear ! ' ' 
 
CHAPTER ELEVEN 
 
 STEATFOED-ON-AVON" 
 
 '' We'ee going to stay in a really, truly old 
 iQii at last, aren't we! " Betty gave a sigh of 
 satisfaction and walked rapidly along by Mrs. 
 Pitt's side, as that lady led the way from the 
 station at Stratford to the famous Eed Horse 
 Hotel. 
 
 '' Stratford is exactly like any other little 
 English town, ' ' John was commenting to Philip. 
 * ' There are plenty of new houses made of shiny, 
 red bricks, and all put close together in blocks, 
 with their tiny lawns and gardens in front. I 
 suppose they build that way even in the small 
 towns, because you haven't as much room to 
 spread out as we have in America. Too bad, 
 though, I say! Makes a little town look just 
 like a big city, only smaller. I thought Strat- 
 ford would be different ! ' ' His tones betrayed 
 not a little disappointment. 
 
 As they came into the central and older part 
 138 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON 139 
 
 of the town, however, even Jolui was forced to 
 admit that it was " different," after all. Along 
 Stratford's narrow, clean little streets stand 
 many old houses adorned with great oak tim- 
 bers, quaint inscriptions, and carvings; and 
 quicker than all else, the sight of these, re- 
 maining here and there between the more mod- 
 em structures, makes one feel the antiquity of 
 the place. These houses totter a little, and lean 
 their upper stories over the street, — perhaps 
 with a kind of curiosity to see better the strange 
 and more and more startling scenes which the 
 centuries bring forth. For instance, what 
 must these ancient houses, which perchance wit- 
 nessed the passing of some splendid pageant of 
 the '* spacious times of Queen Elizabeth," think 
 of the bustle and prosperous commercial air 
 which the town has gradually taken on? What 
 of the sight-seers whose automobiles go tearing 
 along, uttering weird and frightful sounds? No 
 wonder the old houses stand on tiptoe and bend 
 farther and farther over the street in their 
 amazement and horror ! 
 
 The young people were delighted with the odd 
 little Eed Horse Hotel. As it was market-day, 
 the wide street before it was crowded with peo- 
 
I40 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 pie, and down the middle was a row of queer, 
 covered wagons, in which the farmers bring 
 their produce, and which are used as stalls on 
 arrival at the market-place. The little hotel is 
 severely plain and square, and has a passage 
 leading into an old-time court-yard. Inside, it 
 has quaint little rooms filled with antique fur- 
 niture, narrow corridors, and uneven floors, 
 with here a step up, and there two steps down. 
 Leaving their luggage in the rooms assigned to 
 them, the party immediately set out for '' the 
 Birthplace," as all Stratford people invariably 
 call the famous Shakespeare house on Henley 
 Street. 
 
 *' Is that it! " gasped John, as they stood 
 on the opposite side of the way and gazed across 
 at the first home of the great Poet. " Why, I 
 didn't suppose it was as big as that! And it 
 doesn't look old a bit ! " 
 
 Shakespeare's birthplace has been too often 
 pictured, and is far too familiar to all to need 
 any description given it here. Perhaps it does 
 seem rather larger than we imagined, and the 
 outside certainly looks surprisingly strong and 
 new. 
 
 " But you know it now belongs to the na- 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON 141 
 
 tion," Mrs. Pitt explained, '' and is always kept 
 in perfect condition. The last restoration was 
 finished only about fifty or sixty years ago. Al- 
 though the house was so completely renewed, 
 the greatest care was used to make it look as 
 nearly as possible as it did at the time of 
 Shakespeare's birth in 1564. That window 
 above the entrance, with the little diamond 
 panes, is the original, and is in the room in 
 which the Poet was born." 
 
 Going under the old porch and through the 
 door with its high threshold, our friends found 
 themselves in the family living-room of the 
 house. It is low and rather dark, and has 
 whitewashed walls and an earthen floor. This 
 was in all probability the kitchen and dining- 
 room as well, and one is reminded of the fact 
 by a huge fireplace which juts out into the room. 
 In olden times this would have been filled with 
 great pots and kettles hanging over the fire 
 on cranes. The chimney is deep enough and 
 wide enough to have two little seats within it — 
 one on either side. John quickly bent down and 
 seated himself where he could look straight up 
 the chimney and see a square patch of blue sky. 
 
 When Mrs. Pitt saw him, she smiled and said. 
 
142 JOHN AND BETTY?S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 * ' No doubt, Shakespeare himself, when he was 
 a small boy, often sat right there with his 
 brothers and sisters. It must have been very 
 pleasant on cold winter evenings, to creep into 
 these ' inglenooks,' as they were called, beside 
 the great blazing fire, and tell stories. I think 
 the children should have felt themselves very 
 lucky to have such delightfully warm quar- 
 ters! " 
 
 From a small entry at the rear of this room, 
 the narrow winding stairs lead to the floor 
 above. Before going up, Mrs. Pitt wrote their 
 names in the huge Visitors' Book. Betty was 
 much pleased to find, while carelessly turning 
 its pages, the name of a girl friend who had 
 been in England the previous summer. 
 
 *' How queer that I should see Evelyn's 
 name! " she exclaimed; *' but I guess almost 
 everybody who visits England comes to this 
 house. ' ' 
 
 ' ' Aye ! We 'ave thousands of visitors 'ere 
 every year, Miss, and the most of 'em are Amer- 
 icans, it do appear to me I They do be power- 
 ful fond o' Shakespeare! " The attendant 
 shook his head knowingly as he gave Betty this 
 information. 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON 1 43 
 
 One of the most interesting rooms in thewhole 
 world is that chamber on the second floor in 
 which the great Shakespeare was born. In it- 
 self, it is not in any way remarkable ; it contains 
 but a chair or two, and an old table, which holds 
 a bust of the Poet. But its plaster walls, low 
 ceiling, and even its window-panes, are inscribed 
 with the names of great people, — ^poets, authors, 
 statesmen, men of all countries, occupations, 
 and beliefs, — ^who have journeyed here to pay 
 their tribute to the greatest of all poets and 
 writers. 
 
 '' Whenever I meet people who believe that 
 Lord Bacon or any other man wrote Shake- 
 speare's plays, I never discuss the question with 
 them, for I have no arguments to withstand 
 their claims," said Mrs. Pitt intently. '' I only 
 remind myself that if such men as Browning, 
 Thackeray, Kean, Scott, and Carlyle, who have 
 all left their signatures here, believed that the 
 * immortal Shakespeare ' wrote his own plays, I 
 can feel safe in believing so, too. Therefore I 
 want you to understand, children, that you are 
 standing in the room where Shakespeare was 
 born, and be glad all your lives when you re- 
 member that you have seen it." 
 
144 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 The other room on the second floor — a kind of 
 attic — contains an important picture of Shake- 
 speare. It is called the " Stratford Portrait," 
 as it was discovered in that native town, and it 
 is now thought to have been painted in the 
 eighteenth century, from a bust. 
 
 The Shakespeare house is double. In the 
 other half, which is now a museum, John 
 Shakespeare, the father of the Poet, used to 
 have his shop and carry on his trade, or trades, 
 for, like many people at that time, he had sev- 
 eral. This museum now contains many relics 
 of Shakespeare, which are more or less 
 authentic, as well as a large number of First 
 Editions of his plays. The young people were 
 interested in an old desk, much scratched and 
 marred, which it is supposed that the Poet used 
 when at the Guild School. It is not clear 
 whether it was when he was a pupil there, or 
 at the time he was " Junior Master," as he is 
 thought to have been by some. The desk is long 
 and narrow, having but one little opening into 
 which a hand could be reached to pull out the 
 books. It occurred to John that it would have 
 been a very convenient place to hide apples or 
 pickles, or any such forbidden articles, as the 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON 145 
 
 master could never even suspect their existence 
 in that dark interior. 
 
 *' You will see where that desk once stood," 
 remarked Mrs. Pitt, " for later, I shall show 
 you the old Guild Hall, and the room where the 
 Stratford boys had their lessons. Now, we are 
 all hungry, and we'll go straight to the Shake- 
 speare Hotel and have some luncheon. Don't 
 you all approve that plan I " 
 
 Before leaving *' the Birthplace," it must be 
 remembered that there exists a really very pic- 
 turesque old English garden. In it were planted, 
 about fifty years ago, a quantity of the flowers 
 which are mentioned in the plays of Shake- 
 speare, and the result is a very lovely mass of 
 brightly-colored, old-fashioned flowers. 
 
 At the Shakespeare Hotel, they were served 
 a typically English luncheon of mutton, peas 
 seasoned with mint, greens, and afterwards a 
 "gooseberry tart." John and Betty were in 
 gales of laughter when the shy, rosy-cheeked 
 maid asked if they would have some ^' jammed 
 fingers." 
 
 " What in the world does she mean? " in- 
 quired Betty, between her giggles. 
 
 " I don't know, I am sure. Do you, Bar- 
 
146 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 bara? Oh, yes I do! Probably she means 
 ' jam fingers, ' I have heard the name. Please 
 bring us some," Mrs. Pitt requested. 
 
 The '' jammed fingers " proved to be long 
 strips of pastry with jam between. They were 
 very good, and John and Betty much preferred 
 them to the sour gooseberries, to which they had 
 not taken at all kindly. 
 
 The Shakespeare Hotel is much like its neigh- 
 bor, the Eed Horse, except for the fact that 
 each room bears the name of one of Shake- 
 speare's plays. 
 
 ' ' How lovely it would be to sleep in the ' Bo- 
 rneo and Juliet ' room, — if there is one ! ' ' Betty 
 sighed. ' * I almost wish we had planned to stay 
 here, although I do want to write letters on the 
 table in Washington Irving 's room at the Eed 
 Horse! " 
 
 Very near the Shakespeare Hotel is what is 
 known as the " John Harvard House," * — ^more 
 accurately, the girlhood home of the mother of 
 John Harvard. It is high and narrow, but fully 
 as picturesque as is the nearby Tudor House, 
 
 * This has just recently been restored and presented to 
 Harvard College. The old house will in the future serve 
 as a rendezvous for visiting Americans. 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON 147 
 
 which is large and square. Both are excellent 
 examples of Elizabethan houses, and are very 
 quaint and pretty. The lower floor of the Tu- 
 dor House is a most fascinating shop, in which 
 one may find a really astonishing number of 
 post-cards, books, pictures, and little souvenirs 
 relating to Shakespeare. 
 
 " Seems to me, everything, from the hotel to 
 the cheapest post-card, has the name of Shake- 
 speare attached to it somehow ! ' ' 
 
 '.' You are quite right, John! " agreed Mrs. 
 Pitt. " The modern town has grown up and 
 literally lives upon Shakespeare ! Without him, 
 and the immense number of visitors which his 
 memory brings, Stratford could hardly exist 
 at all, as there are no factories or important in- 
 dustries here." 
 
 A long, beautiful afternoon of sightseeing fol- 
 lowed. First, came a visit to the site of Shake- 
 speare's home of New Place, to see the old 
 foundations. As they stood looking down at the 
 few pathetic remains, Mrs. Pitt explained how 
 the house happened to be pulled down. 
 
 '' It was shameful! " she cried indignantly. 
 *' I dislike to think of the man who was re- 
 sponsible for its destruction. The house was an 
 
148 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 old one, even in Shakespeare's day, as it was 
 probably erected in 1490 by Sir Hugb Clopton. 
 A historian named Leland of the sixteenth cen- 
 tury says this about New Place and its sur- 
 roundings: ' There is a right goodly chappell, 
 in a f ayre street towardes the south ende of the 
 towne dedicated to the Trinitye; this chappell 
 was newly re-edified by one Hugh Clopton, 
 Mayor of London; this Hugh Clopton builded 
 also by the north side of this chappell a praty 
 house of brick and tymbre, wherein he lived in 
 his latter dayes and dyed. ' To appreciate that 
 fully, you should see the queer old spelling! 
 Well, to continue, Shakespeare left New Place 
 to his eldest daughter, Susanna Hall, and I 
 don't know just how long it remained in the fam- 
 ily. However, at length it was in the possession 
 of the Rev. Francis Gastrell, who cut down 
 Shakespeare's celebrated mulberry- tree be- 
 cause too many visitors troubled him by coming 
 there to see it. In 1759, he became so angry in 
 a quarrel about the taxes imposed upon New 
 Place, that he had it torn down and the material 
 sold. I can never forgive him for that! It 
 seems to me that I never knew of anger having 
 led to a more outrageously unjust and deplor- 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON 149 
 
 able act! " Mrs. Pitt's eyes flashed, and her 
 face was flushed from her feeling of what one 
 might almost be pardoned for terming * ' right- 
 eous indignation." 
 
 Leaving New Place, they turned into Chapel 
 Lane, which borders on one side the grounds 
 formerly belonging to the Poet's estate. 
 
 * ' Let me give you just a little description of 
 this street in Shakespeare's time," Mrs. Pitt 
 reflected. " You must know that sanitary con- 
 ditions were fearful then, and that Stratford 
 was as bad, if not worse, than other towns in 
 that respect. Even as late as 1769, when Gar- 
 rick visited here, he considered it ' the most 
 dirty, unseemly, ill-paved, wretched-looking town 
 in all Britain.' The people had absolutely no 
 idea of cleanliness. Li Stratford, there were 
 six places where it was lawful to dump rubbish, 
 — right in the street ! Just fancy ! Sometimes 
 these dumps prevented a man from making his 
 way about the town. Chapel Lane was consid- 
 ered the worst part of the whole place, for be- 
 sides the fact that there was a dump here, the 
 neighbors in the vicinity seemed to be more than 
 usually untidy and shiftless, — allowing their 
 pigs to wander about loose, for instance. That 
 
150 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 was the kind of street which Shakespeare must 
 have entered every time he left his own house. 
 Think of it! Some people have, I believe, at- 
 tributed his early death to the unhealthful con- 
 ditions of his surroundings. Inside the homes, 
 things were but little better. People laid rushes 
 on the floor in the place of carpets, and these 
 became filthy from dirt, mud, and other things 
 which clung to them. Fresh rushes were 
 brought but seldom. The churches were not 
 often swept or cleaned, either. Once, when the 
 roof of the Guild Chapel was being repaired, a 
 certain man and his wife were appointed to 
 sweep the interior and clear away the cobwebs. 
 A widow used to sweep the market-place. She 
 was provided with her utensils, — a shovel, 
 broom-stick, and bundle of twigs — and was paid 
 six shillings and eightpence a year. How care- 
 fully and how often do you suppose she swept? 
 Dear me ! I sometimes have wished that I had 
 lived in Queen Elizabeth's age, but when I re- 
 member some of the terrible circumstances of 
 that time, I cannot be too thankful that I live in 
 the twentieth century! " 
 
 They had been standing before the old Guild 
 Hall for some few minutes while Mrs. Pitt fin- 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON 1 5 1 
 
 ished what she was saying. They now turned 
 to admire and examine it more closely. It is a 
 building of plaster and huge timbers, long and 
 low, with a second story projecting slightly over 
 the lower. The old hall on the ground floor is 
 said to be where the boy Shakespeare first saw 
 a play. A room just above it was the Grammar 
 School, which Shakespeare probably attended 
 for five years, and where the desk shown at 
 *' the Birthplace " may have been used by 
 him. 
 
 " It was rather different going to school in 
 those days! " declared Mrs. Pitt. '' The hours 
 were very long, the lessons hard, and the mas- 
 ters strict, and not unwilling to use the rod for 
 the slightest misdemeanor. There have been 
 terrible stories of boys being much hurt, or even 
 killed as a result of this practice. The pupils 
 sat on narrow benches, their heavy books 
 propped up before them on long tables. It must 
 have been very hard to stay here in this dark 
 room and listen to the master's voice reciting 
 monotonous Latin, while birds sang and the fair 
 world of an English summer was just out of 
 reach. If Shakespeare was a real boy, — and we 
 think he was — ^he was surely describing his own 
 
152 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 feelings when he wrote the lines in ' As You 
 Like It ' about : 
 
 " ' The whining schoolboy, with his satchel, 
 And shining morning face, creeping like snail 
 Unwillingly to school, — ' " 
 
 As they had already walked a good deal that 
 day, Mrs. Pitt found a carriage, and they drove 
 to Trinity Church and the Shakespeare Memo- 
 rial. On the way, the driver pointed out the 
 home of Marie Corelli, the writer. It is an 
 attractive, square house, which presents a very 
 gay appearance, with a box of bright flowers on 
 every window-ledge. 
 
 Trinity Church stands close beside the pic- 
 turesque Avon. The waters flow gently against 
 the rushes, making a soft music, and the breeze 
 just stirs the leaves of the tall trees which keep 
 guard over the graves in the church-yard. One 
 feels something of the peace and quiet of Stoke 
 Poges, but here the presence, — or, rather, the 
 memory — of the great Shakespeare hovers over 
 all, and every one hastens inside to see the tomb. 
 
 The church is ancient — in part dating from 
 the twelfth century — and it contains many in- 
 teresting monuments, but somehow the whole 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON 153 
 
 seems like one huge memorial to Shakespeare. 
 On the floor, at one side of the chancel, is the 
 slab which marks the Poet's grave, and which 
 bears the famous epitaph, said to have been 
 written by himself : 
 
 " Good frend^ for Jesus' sake forbeare 
 To digg the dust encloased heare; 
 Bleste be y man y spares thes stones, 
 And curst be he y moves my bones." 
 
 On the wall above the tomb is the monument, — a 
 bust of Shakespeare, on which the original col- 
 ors have recently been restored. Nearby are 
 buried Anne Hathaway, Shakespeare's wife, his 
 daughter, Susanna Hall, and her husband, and 
 other members of the family. 
 
 For some minutes our party stood quietly 
 looking over the altar-rail at the grave and its 
 inscription, but finally, the arrival of some loud- 
 voiced, laughing tourists, who conscientiously 
 made fun of everything they saw, caused them 
 to turn away. 
 
 Mrs. Pitt then called their attention to some 
 of the stained-glass windows. *' Two of them 
 were given by Americans," she said. " This 
 one here pictures the Seven Ages of Man, which 
 
154 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Shakespeare describes in ' As Yon Like It.' Do 
 yon see? Now come to the back of the church 
 and look at the parish register, which contains 
 the record of the baptism and burial of Shake- 
 speare. Here it is." 
 
 A glass case holds this precious relic, and by 
 studying carefully the quaint old writing, the 
 words " Shakespeare " and the dates can be 
 traced. 
 
 * * Think how fortunate that this register was 
 preserved! " exclaimed Mrs. Pitt, leaning over 
 to examine it again. " Important records of 
 births, marriages, and deaths, as well as notable 
 events, were always kept in these books, and yet 
 the people generally did not consider them of 
 much value. The parchment leaves were often 
 torn out and used to rebind schoolbooks, or to 
 line a housewife's cooking-utensils! Fancy! 
 Some vergers, however, recognized the great 
 worth of these books and preserved them with 
 care. Luckily the men of this church were of 
 that type." 
 
 Here the modern verger, in his flowing black 
 gown, accosted them, and urged them to buy 
 some of the Shakespeare Postcards, at a shilling 
 each. Having purchased several, and posted 
 
STR ATFO RD-ON-AVON 1 5 5 
 
 them then and there to various friends, they left 
 the church and walked down the lovely path, 
 shaded by arching lime-trees. They then drove 
 to the Shakespeare Memorial, which also stands 
 near the river. 
 
 This large, irregular building of red brick 
 and stone, with its one high tower, was erected 
 in 1879. In it is a theatre where plays are given 
 every spring, on the anniversary of Shake- 
 speare's birth, as well as at certain other times. 
 The children were amused at seeing a rehearsal 
 in progress on the stage. 
 
 *' How absurd Lady Macbeth does look 
 strutting about and clasping her hands, dressed 
 in that black skirt, shirt-waist, and sailor hat! " 
 Betty laughed. 
 
 In this Memorial Building are many photo- 
 graphs and paintings of celebrated actors and 
 actresses in Shakespearean roles, as well as a 
 very fine library. There is so much to be seen 
 here — so much detail — that our friends only 
 took a very hasty look about, and then went up 
 into the tower to see the view. Stretched out 
 below them, the quaint little town of Stratford 
 and the lovely green meadows through which 
 the Avon flows, made a very effective picture ! 
 
156 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 It was now late afternoon, and the sun was 
 getting lower and lower. They did not feel like 
 doing any more real sight-seeing, yet it was still 
 too delightful out-of-doors to return to the hotel, 
 so Mrs. Pitt, who always had some fascinating 
 plan ready, suggested that they walk through 
 the Weir Brake. 
 
 " What's that. Mother? You never took us 
 there! " exclaimed Barbara. 
 
 '' Didn't I? Well, I'll show it to you, and I 
 am sure you will like it, too,'^ their mother 
 promised. " Come on! We'll cross this little 
 foot-bridge, and go along the opposite bank." 
 
 The view of Holy Trinity Church from across 
 the river is very charming. The luxuriant 
 foliage almost hides it except for the old gray 
 spire, which rises most gracefully above the 
 tree-tops. They strolled happily along over 
 the rough field, Betty stopping sometimes to 
 gather a few attractive blossoms to add to her 
 bunch of wildflowers. The light was wonder- 
 fully soft and lovely, and the sun had gone down 
 only to leave behind it a sky glorious in its 
 tints of pink and lavender, with the deep blue 
 still remaining above. 
 
 *' Now, we're coming to the Weir Brake! " 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON 157 
 
 announced Mrs. Pitt triumphantly. " Take 
 care, Barbara! Don't trip over that stump! " 
 
 They followed their guide over a stile, across 
 a field where the smell of new-mown hay was 
 sweet, through some bars, and finally along a 
 narrow, rough path on a steep bank close to 
 the Avon. This was the beginning of the Weir 
 Brake, where Shakespeare and Anne Hathaway 
 may perhaps have done their courting, as Mrs. 
 Pitt suggested. 
 
 The Avon is narrow at this point, and flows 
 rather swiftly. The sunset sky was reflected 
 in its waters, which were overshadowed by 
 willow trees, rushes, and ferns. On the bank 
 was a tangle of underbrush and wild flowers, 
 and above, the great trees, — the elms, of which 
 Shakespeare so often speaks. As they rambled 
 on and on, the trees seemed to grow larger, and 
 more and more gnarled and picturesque. 
 
 *' Oh! Can't you just see Titania and Ob- 
 eron and all the other fairies dancing here and 
 playing games about these trees ! It looks ex- 
 actly like a stage-setting for ' As You Like It ' 
 or * Midsummer Night's Dream,' " exclaimed 
 Betty, who was fascinated with what she saw. 
 The evening was just dark enough to produce a 
 
158 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 weird but beautiful effect of shadows under the 
 elm trees. 
 
 *' I'm rejoiced that it appeals to you so, 
 Betty! " cried Mrs. Pitt. " That's just as I 
 always feel! It seems as though you could 
 actually touch spots of which Shakespeare must 
 have been thinking when he wrote certain pass- 
 ages. And it is a fact that he did often have 
 this or similar places in mind ; for, although the 
 scene of ' A Midsummer Night's Dream ' was 
 supposed to be in Greece, Shakespeare allowed 
 his characters and his entire background to be 
 as absolutely English as he was himself. You 
 know that in olden times, the Forest of Arden 
 covered much of Warwickshire ; even these old 
 trees with which we are now surrounded, are 
 remnants of that splendid woodland which is so 
 familiar to us through Shakespeare. It was 
 surely in just such a scene that Titania and the 
 other fairies danced, and where Snug, Bottom, 
 Flute, Snout, and the rest came to practice their 
 play, — those so-called Athenians, who were so 
 exactly like Stratford tradesmen of Shake- 
 speare's day. Certainly it was under just such 
 trees that Hermia, and Helena, Lysander, and 
 Demetrius wandered! 
 
STRATFORD-ON-AVON 159 
 
 *' And see there where those branches touch 
 the water," she soon continued; '^ might not 
 that have been the very place where poor 
 Ophelia lost her life? Listen! 
 
 " ' There is a willow grows aslant a brook, 
 
 That shows his hoar leaves in the glassy stream; ' 
 
 Isn't that a perfect description of this very- 
 spot? And then: 
 
 "'I know a bank whereon the wild thyme blows, 
 Where oxslips and the nodding violet grows, — ' 
 
 Just see the violets all about us here! There 
 are the ' pale cowslips,' too! Do you seel Oh, 
 it's wonderful, — wonderful to find so many of 
 the very flowers which Shakespeare loved and 
 talked of so much! — the daisy, the musk-rose 
 and woodbine! There's some right by your 
 foot, Betty. But come, come, we really must 
 go now! We'll go back by the field above, 
 where it is not so steep and dark. Come, 
 John! " 
 
 So they hurriedly retraced their steps toward 
 the town. In skirting the fields on the hill-top, 
 they once had to pick their way with some dif- 
 ficulty through holes in bristling hedges, and 
 
i6o JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Mrs. Pitt and the girls were forced to run away 
 from a buck, but these were little incidents to 
 which they were all quite equal^ and they arrived 
 at the Eed Horse Hotel, nothing daunted, just 
 as the dinner-gong sounded loudly. 
 
CHAPTER TWELVE 
 
 A DAY IN WAEWICKSHIRE 
 
 Betty did spend the evening ' ' writing letters 
 in Washington Irving 's room at the Eed 
 Horse," as she had planned. It was in that 
 quaint, tiny parlor that Irving wrote his well- 
 known paper about Stratf ord-on-Avon, and per- 
 haps Betty hoped to benefit by the literary at- 
 mosphere. At any rate, the letters were accom- 
 plished with great ease and rapidity, after her 
 curiosity had been satisfied by an examination 
 of the room. 
 
 Washington Irving 's armchair is there, and 
 the old poker with which he is said to have 
 tended the fire. On the walls hang the pic- 
 tures of a number of actors and actresses who 
 have played Shakespearean parts. Except for 
 these, the room differs very little from the rest 
 of the inn. About nine-thirty, the children 
 started up to bed, Betty, enthusiastic at the 
 prospect of a high four-poster, which " you 
 really have to run and give a jump to get into. ' ' 
 
 i6i 
 
1 62 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 She and Barbara did not stay long awake to en- 
 joy it, however, for it seemed as though their 
 heads had hardly touched the pillows before the 
 maid was calling them, and the bright sun was 
 pouring in at the windows. 
 
 Very early they set out to walk " across the 
 fields to Anne. ' ' The little village of Shottery, 
 where stands the cottage known all the world 
 over as '^ Anne Hathaway 's," is only about a 
 mile distant from Stratford, and our party gayly 
 took the path through the fields, — ^perhaps the 
 very one over which Shakespeare trod when he 
 was Anne 's lover. This led them first past the 
 '* back-yards " of Stratford, then over a stile 
 and through the green meadows, where daisies 
 and cowslips abound. As they went along, Mrs. 
 Pitt repeated to them the following little verse 
 from Shakespeare's " Winter's Tale ": 
 
 "Jog on, jog on, the footpath way, 
 And merrily hent the stile-a; 
 A merry heart goes all the way, 
 Your sad tires ia a mile-a." 
 
 The boys learned this, and half-chanted, half- 
 sang it over and over while they all kept time 
 to the rhythm. 
 
A DAY IN WARWICKSHIRE 163 
 
 ** There's Shottery, I guess! " Betty called, 
 interrupting the singers, as she caught sight of 
 a pretty little group of thatched-roof ed cottages. 
 *' It seems a very short ' mile-a,' doesn't it? " 
 
 Anne Hathaway 's cottage is even more pic- 
 turesque than its neighbors, or does this only 
 seem so because of the associations which it has 
 for all? Every one knows the picture of the 
 cottage. One end stands close to the country 
 road, and in front of it, behind a green hedge, 
 is the garden. Growing on the cottage walls 
 are at least half a dozen different kinds of 
 roses, as well as honeysuckle and jasmine, which 
 clamber way up and mingle with the heavy 
 thatch. The old casement-windows with their 
 thick panes of glass were swung open to let in 
 the morning's fresh air. A young girl dressed 
 in pink and carrying a broom, appeared on the 
 doorstep as Philip opened the gate. She was 
 evidently rather surprised to see such early vis- 
 itors, but she said they might go in. While Mrs. 
 Pitt paused to speak with her, Betty, who had 
 already rushed inside, called out: '' Here's the 
 old settle ! I know it from its pictures ! " 
 
 Sure enough, there it was, close beside the 
 great fireplace, — ^we hope just where it has al- 
 
1 64 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 ways been ever since Anne Hathaway and 
 Shakespeare sat there together. 
 
 ' ' But, Mother, is that really the same bench, 
 and did Anne truly live here? " questioned the 
 all too matter-of-fact Barbara. 
 
 ' ' My dear daughter, ' ' began Mrs. Pitt, feign- 
 ing great severity; " banish that thought im- 
 mediately ! Just for one little hour we are go- 
 ing to know that Anne did live here, — that Will 
 said ' Will you? ' and Anne said ' I will,' right 
 on this very bench. I quite refuse to listen to 
 any doubts on the subject for to-day! You 
 write our names in the book, please, Philip. I'm 
 going to rest myself here in Anne's rocking- 
 chair! " 
 
 The girl with the broom looked at her visitor 
 in a puzzled way, and began, — ^' But, lady, I 
 
 brought that chair here with me only " But 
 
 Mrs. Pitt quickly interrupted her, asking some 
 trifling question. Her illusions were not to be 
 disturbed, it seemed, and the girl beat a retreat. 
 
 '' Well, Mother," said Philip, '' you aren't 
 the only one who has ever believed in the house ! 
 Here in this old Visitors' Book are the names of 
 Dickens, Longfellow, Holmes, General Grant, 
 Edwin Booth, Mary Anderson, and " 
 
^'/ , // 
 
A DAY IN WARWICKSHIRE 165 
 
 ' ' Never mind the rest, Phil ; if General Grant 
 said so, it's true! He knew what he was 
 talking about! " And so John settled the 
 question. 
 
 A flag- stone floor is all this little room can 
 boast of, and a low ceiling of huge timbers, but 
 it has an air of homelikeness and cosy comfort, 
 nevertheless. At the windows are flowers which 
 nod to their cousins out in the garden; some 
 gray knitting usually lies on the table; and there 
 is the huge fireplace with all its cranes, different 
 hooks, pots and kettles ; and the crowning glory 
 of all, the old oak settle, upon which every vis- 
 itor religiously seats himself. 
 
 " Isn't there any upstairs? " demanded John, 
 before many minutes. 
 
 ' ' Oh, yes ! May we go up, please 1 ' ' Mrs. 
 Pitt asked of the attendant. '' Yes, thank you; 
 I know the way, and I'll be careful. ' ' 
 
 So they climbed the rickety stairs, and saw a 
 little bedroom under the eaves, in which stands 
 an old, very forlorn-looking " four-poster." 
 
 *' I'm so glad that tiresome, truthful person 
 let us come up alone, ' ' said Mrs. Pitt, panting. 
 " If she had come, too, I could not have ex- 
 plained that this was Anne's bedroom. She 
 
1 66 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 used to sit by this window and dream about 
 Will, and watch for his coming, too. She '* 
 
 *' Don't spoil it all. Mother," pleaded Bar- 
 bara. ' ' Perhaps it really was her room ! ' ' 
 
 " And didn't I just say as much? " her 
 mother laughed. '' But seriously! This room 
 never appealed to me as does the one below. 
 Anne couldn't have been very comfortable up 
 here. If she was tall, she could hardly have 
 stood up straight because of the slanting 
 roof." 
 
 So laughingly, they went downstairs and 
 toward the patch of bright yellow sun-flowers in 
 the farthest corner of the garden. The young 
 girl followed them. ' ' Shall I point out the dif- 
 ferent flowers 1 ' ' she timidly inquired. 
 
 They were duly shown the ' ' rosemary for re- 
 membrance," the '' pansies for thoughts," and 
 a great many others of Shakespeare's loved 
 flowers. The view of the cottage from the 
 group of tall sun-flowers is most charming. 
 There is surely nothing in the world more pic- 
 turesque than a thatched-roof . 
 
 Arrived once again at the Eed Horse, they 
 all packed up their belongings, and Mrs. Pitt 
 went over to the station with a boy, who wheeled 
 
A DAY IN WARWICKSHIRE 167 
 
 the luggage. When the suit-cases were duly 
 labeled '* Leamington," and the station-master 
 had received his tip of a shilling, to insure his 
 remembering them, Mrs. Pitt returned to the 
 hotel, where she found five bicycles lined up. At 
 sight of her, the rest came running out. ' ' This 
 is great ! ' ' cried John, already astride one of 
 the bicycles, and impatient for the start. 
 
 " Yes," answered Mrs. Pitt, much pleased by 
 the enthusiasm. '' I thought this would be 
 rather better than driving out to Charlecote and 
 back, and then taking the train to Leamington. 
 I know the roads, and am delighted at riding 
 once more! I had my divided-skirt with me, 
 you see, in case of this very emergency. You 
 girls will manage somehow; your skirts are 
 fairly short." This was to Barbara and Betty, 
 and then they were off. 
 
 The ride of about four miles to Charlecote 
 seemed all too short, for, as Betty expressed it, 
 *' the roads are so smooth and level that I can't 
 stop. My wheel just goes of itself! " They 
 first came in sight of Charlecote Park, where 
 there are still great numbers of deer. As the 
 party passed, the graceful creatures rose from 
 the tall grass, making an extremely pretty pic- 
 
1 68 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 ture. They tried in vain to coax them to the 
 fence. 
 
 '' Deer in Shakespeare's time must have been 
 tamer, or he couldn't have stolen one," observed 
 John knowingly. 
 
 '' Isn't the ' Tumble-down Stile ' near here, 
 Mother 1 ' ' Barbara questioned. 
 
 " Yes, it's just beyond this turn in the road. 
 There it is now ! So long as we are believing all 
 we see to-day, I feel quite justified in telling 
 you that when the youthful Shakespeare was 
 escaping with his deer on his shoulders, he fled 
 by way of this stile. Touch that top rail, John, 
 and see what will happen. No, this end of the 
 rail!" 
 
 As John put his hand on the place which Mrs. 
 Pitt designated, that end gave way and hit the 
 three other rails, so that they also bent down to 
 the ground. John was much amused, and re- 
 peated the motion again and again. 
 
 " Did Shakespeare fall over that stile when 
 he was trying to climb it with the deer, and did 
 they catch him then? " he asked eagerly. 
 
 '' Yes, that's the story, and, of course, we 
 know it is true! Now, come this way to the 
 gatehouse. I was able to get permission, 
 
A DAY IN WARWICKSHIRE 169 
 
 througli an influential friend, to take you inside. 
 I am so glad, for not every one has such good 
 fortune. This woodland, ' ' motioning to the fine 
 old oaks, as they sped along, ' ' is also a part of 
 the ancient Forest of Arden. That wood was 
 so dense in this county in the thirteenth cen- 
 tury, that the King ordered the Constable of 
 Warwickshire to cut down six acres in breadth 
 between Warwick and Coventry, to insure the 
 greater safety of travelers." 
 
 They were now getting distant glimpses of the 
 fine Elizabethan residence itself. It was built 
 in 1558, the year of Elizabeth's accession to the 
 throne, and was made in the general shape of 
 the letter E, in honor of that Queen. The color 
 of the ancient bricks has been softened and beau- 
 tified by the hand of Time, which has also caused 
 heavy vines to grow upon, and in certain places, 
 almost to cover the walls. The different courts, 
 gateways, and gables, are therefore most pic- 
 turesque. The present owner, a descendant of 
 the Sir Thomas Lucy whom Shakespeare knew 
 and ridiculed, permits visitors (the privileged 
 few) to see the Great Hall and the library. 
 
 The former is the most interesting of all the 
 apartments, for here one stands in the very 
 
lyo JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 room where Shakespeare is said to have been 
 questioned by the pompous Sir Thomas Lucy, 
 after the deer- stealing episode. This lofty hall 
 has a slight modern atmosphere about it now, 
 but the dark paneling, bits of really old glass 
 in the windows, and, above all, the bust of 
 Shakespeare, recall the past very vividly to 
 mind. 
 
 Most historians admit that there is some 
 truth in the story that Shakespeare came into 
 unpleasant contact with the Lord of Charlecote, 
 through a more or less serious boyish prank ; but 
 not all believe that there can be any truth in the 
 statement that he was brought into the Great 
 Hall by the forester who caught up with him at 
 the " Tumble-down Stile." It may be, how- 
 ever, that Shakespeare was later on friendly 
 terms with the Lucy family, and so it is 
 possible that he was then entertained in the 
 hall. 
 
 " You know," remarked Mrs. Pitt, " that the 
 disgrace of that affair with Sir Thomas Lucy is 
 thought to have caused Shakespeare to leave his 
 native town and go to seek his fortune in far- 
 away London. Therefore the prank is said by 
 some to have been a most important, though 
 
A DAY IN WARWICKSHIRE 171 
 
 seemingly trivial event in the Poet's life. 
 Shakespeare's revenge upon the owner of lovely 
 Charlecote came later, when he very plainly de- 
 scribed Sir Thomas in his plays, imder the name 
 of ' Justice Shallow. ' " 
 
 Another room at Charlecote is very attractive, 
 — that is, the old library. There is preserved 
 some wonderful inlaid furniture which tradition 
 describes as a gift from Queen Elizabeth to 
 Leicester, and which consequently would once 
 have found a place at Kenilworth Castle. A 
 very charming view of the lawn sloping gently 
 down to the river is seen from the library win- 
 dows. 
 
 Within the precincts of Charlecote is a beauti- 
 ful church which was erected by Mrs. Henry 
 Spenser Lucy, in 1852, upon the site of an an- 
 cient chapel. Here there are huge tombs in 
 memory of three Lucys, and also an interesting 
 monument to the wife of Sir Thomas, with its 
 tribute to her lovely character, supposed to have 
 been written by Shakespeare's '' Justice Shal- 
 low " himself, who seems at least to have been 
 a devoted husband. This last-mentioned monu- 
 ment was originally a part of the older edifice, 
 of course. 
 
172 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 It was now about noon, and they were feeling 
 rather hungry, so at a short distance from 
 Charlecote they selected an inviting place by the 
 roadside, and there they unpacked the lunch 
 which Mrs. Pitt had brought. How good it did 
 taste ! They all thoroughly enjoyed the picnic, 
 and when a scarlet automobile went rushing 
 past them, the ladies' veils fluttering in the 
 breeze, Betty merely remarked: — "An auto's 
 lovely, of course, but to-day I'd rather have 
 a bicycle. It seems more appropriate, some- 
 how. ' ' 
 
 " Yes," Mrs. Pitt responded. '' When you 
 are in such a beautiful county as this, and want 
 to see it well, a bicycle is best. And then, I 
 think it is more respectful to Shakespeare to go 
 through his beloved haunts at a fairly leisurely 
 pace. I imagine that he never would have un- 
 derstood how any one could care so little for 
 Warwickshire as to go whirling and jiggling 
 along through it in a motor, at thirty miles an 
 hour. ' ' 
 
 Betty had absent-mindedly picked a daisy 
 from the tall grass in which she was sitting, and 
 was pulling off its petals, reciting the little verse 
 about : 
 
A DAY IN WARWICKSHIRE 173 
 
 "Rich man. 
 Poor man. 
 Beggar man, 
 Thief." 
 
 " Oil, dear! It's thief! " she cried, making 
 up a wry face. ''I'd rather have any one than 
 that!" 
 
 " Try the other verses," suggested Barbara, 
 entering into the fun. 
 
 " What others'? " asked Betty in much sur- 
 prise. " I didn't know there were any more." 
 
 " Dear me, yes," Mrs. Pitt broke in. ''I 
 used to know several of them myself, — the one 
 about the house : 
 
 "'Big house. 
 Little house. 
 Pig-stye, 
 Bam,' 
 
 and about the conveyances: 
 
 « ' Coach, 
 Carriage, 
 Spring-cart, 
 Wheelbarrow.' 
 
 Wasn't there one more, Barbara? Oh, yes, 
 about the dress materials : 
 
174 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 " ' snk, 
 
 Satin, 
 Muslin, 
 Rags.' » 
 
 " Well, well! " exclaimed Betty. ** I never 
 heard those. They must be just English." 
 
 '' Perhaps so. At any rate, when I was a lit- 
 tle girl, I used to say them, and believe in them, 
 too. I lived here in Warwickshire, in my child- 
 hood, you know ; my father was rector of a tiny 
 village not far from Coventry. There are 
 ever so many queer old rhymes, verses, and 
 customs still common among Warwickshire 
 children. ' ' 
 
 '' Tell Betty about some of them, Mother," 
 Barbara urged. ''I'm sure that she'd like 
 to hear, and we don't need to start on just 
 yet." 
 
 Mrs. Pitt leaned thoughtfully against the low- 
 ered bars, at the entrance to a field. '' I'll have 
 to think about it," she said; but she soon 
 added, " There was the ' Wishing Tree.' I 
 remember that." 
 
 '' What was it? " the two girls eagerly ques- 
 tioned. John and Philip, privately considering 
 this talk '' silly stuff," had retired to the 
 
A DAY IN WARWICKSHIRE 175 
 
 farther side of a hay-rick, where they were 
 whittling industriously. 
 
 i' The ' Wishing Tree ' was a large elm that 
 stood in the park of a neighboring nobleman's 
 estate. To all the girls of the village, it was a 
 favorite spot, and we used to steal through the 
 hedge and very cautiously approach the tree. 
 If the cross old gardener happened to see us he 'd 
 come limping in our direction as fast as his 
 lame legs could carry him, calling out angrily 
 that if we did not ' shog off right away, he'd 
 set his ten commandments in our faces. ' That 's 
 an odd expression, isn't it? It's very, very old, 
 — so old that Shakespeare was familiar with it 
 and used it in one of his plays — ' King Henry 
 VI, ' I think. The gardener meant that he would 
 scratch us with his ten fingers — but he wouldn't 
 have, for he was too kind-hearted in spite of his 
 threats. He was a queer man, with a brown, 
 wrinkled old face. I can see him just as though 
 it were yesterday. ' ' 
 
 *' What was that you said? " asked Betty. 
 '' ' Shog off! ' What does it mean? " 
 
 ' ' Simply Warwickshire for ' Go away, ' ' ' was 
 Mrs. Pitt's careless answer. Her thoughts had 
 gone back to her childhood. 
 
176 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 '' You forgot to tell us what the ' Wishing 
 Tree ' was for," Betty timidly suggested, fear- 
 ful of interrupting her reminiscences. 
 
 '* Why, so I did! We would tip-toe all alone 
 up to the tree, and if, under its wide branches, 
 we made a wish, we thought it was sure to come 
 true. There was another curious old game of 
 finding out how many years we were to live, by a 
 ball. We would bounce it upon the hard ground, 
 and catching it again and again in our hands, 
 would chant all the while : 
 
 " ' Ball-ee, ball-ee, tell me true, 
 
 How many years I've got to go through, 
 One, two, three, four, — ' 
 
 If that had proved true, I shouldn't be here to- 
 day to tell of it, for I was never very skillful 
 with the ball, and could only catch it ten or fif- 
 teen times at the most." 
 
 Mrs. Pitt laughed. '' There is so much of an- 
 cient folk-lore here in Warwickshire, ' ' she went 
 on. " I remember that the old country people 
 always crossed themselves or said some charm 
 for a protection, when one lone magpie flew over 
 their heads. That meant bad luck, for the 
 verses said: 
 
A DAY IN WARWICKSHIRE 177 
 
 "'For one magpie means sorrow, 
 TwOj mirth. 
 Three a wedding, 
 And four, a birth.' 
 
 Why, wliat is it, Barbara? " 
 
 Barbara had jumped to her feet, and was 
 wildly waving her arms about her head. " It's 
 only a bee," she said, rather ashamed. " I 
 don 't like them quite so near. ' ' 
 
 It was delightful to ride along on this " rare 
 day in June, ' ' through the fair county of War- 
 wickshire, — the '^ Heart of England." If they 
 were just a bit uncomfortably warm on the hill- 
 top where the sun beat down upon the fields and 
 open road, they were soon again in the beautiful 
 woodland, where the cool air refreshed them, or 
 passing through the street of some remote vil- 
 lage, shaded by giant elms. In each little ham- 
 let, as well as the row of peaceful thatched cot- 
 tages, with smoke curling upwards from their 
 chimneys, there was the ancient vine-covered 
 church, with perhaps a Norman tower, where 
 the rooks found a home, and the gray old 
 rectory close at hand. 
 
 When Betty asked if it was in a church " like 
 this " that Mrs. Pitt's father preached, and if 
 
178 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 her former home resembled the particular rec- 
 tory they then chanced to be passing, Mrs. Pitt 
 replied, ' ' Yes, my home was somewhat like this 
 one. All English country churches and rectories 
 look very much alike, — that is, almost all are 
 vine-covered, and very old and quaint — ^yet, I 
 think each has its own very distinct individu- 
 ality, too." 
 
 Mrs. Pitt, of course, wanted some tea, so 
 about four o 'clock they stopped at a clean little 
 cottage, near a stretch of woodland. Mrs. Pitt 
 herself dismounted and stepped up to the door, 
 which stood hospitably open. A little flaxen- 
 haired child ran out curiously at the sound of 
 the knock, and then, frightened, scampered away 
 to call her mother. That good woman, in her 
 neat black dress and stiffly-starched white apron, 
 at once understood the situation. 
 
 '' You just seat yourselves there under the 
 trees," she ordered them, '' and I'll bring right 
 out a shive off a loaf of bread, and a tot o' tea 
 for each of you. " 
 
 The young people looked puzzled at this 
 speech, but Mrs. Pitt smilingly led the way to 
 the place their hostess designated. In a sur- 
 prisingly short time the woman brought out a 
 
A DAY IN WARWICKSHIRE 179 
 
 table (having scorned the assistance of the two 
 boys), spread it with an immaculately clean 
 cloth, and set thereon a very tempting loaf of 
 brown bread and a pot of steaming tea. There 
 was also jam, of course. While they enjoyed 
 their meal, she stood by, her hands on her hips, 
 and a radiant smile upon her face at the praises 
 of her guests. Every few moments the little 
 girl would peep out from behind the cottage, and 
 once she almost came up to the group under the 
 trees ; but her mother, when she spied her, sent 
 her hastily back, saying by way of an apology : — 
 '' She's all swatched, but she's only my reckling, 
 you must know." As they rode away into the 
 woods, the good woman stood in the middle 
 of the road waving her table-cloth for good- 
 
 by. 
 
 " Wasn't she a dandy! " John burst out. 
 *' Couldn't understand what she said, though! 
 Might just as well have been Greek ! ' ' 
 
 '^ She certainly did have some old Warwick- 
 shire expressions!" laughed Mrs. Pitt. "I 
 don't know when I've heard that word ' reck- 
 ling.' It simply means her youngest child, 
 who she said was all ' swatched.' That sig- 
 nifies being untidy, but I am sure I couldn't see 
 
i8o JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 the tiniest spot of dirt anywhere upon the 
 child." 
 
 Betty was rather glad when they at last 
 jumped of£ their bicycles at the hotel in Leam- 
 ington. 
 
 ' ' I guess I'm not used to quite such long rides 
 as you," she said. " It has been beautiful, 
 though, and I wouldn't have come by train for 
 anything. I just love Warwickshire, and every- 
 thing about it, especially the language, which I 
 mean to learn while I am here." 
 
CHAPTER THIRTEEN 
 
 WAEWICK AND KENILWORTH CASTLES 
 
 The bicycles were returned to their owner in 
 Stratford, and Mrs. Pitt's plan was to drive to 
 Warwick and Kenilworth the following day. 
 Consequently it was a great disappointment at 
 breakfast-time to see gray and threatening 
 clouds overhead, from which rain very soon be- 
 gan to descend. The day was also very cold, 
 and such a chilling wind was blowing and whis- 
 tling around the corners of the hotel, that fires 
 were lighted in all the tiny grates. 
 
 " Whoever heard of such cold weather in 
 June ! ' ' John protested, not in the best of spirits 
 at being shut up in the house. " It's horrid, I 
 say ! Ugh ! If my fur coat was here, I should 
 put it on, and then get inside the fireplace, too." 
 
 At this very dismal burst of feeling from 
 John, Mrs. Pitt came to the rescue, suggesting a 
 game of billiards. John brightened very con- 
 siderably after this, and the remainder of the 
 day was pleasantly spent in writing letters, 
 
 i8i 
 
1 82 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 playing games, and reading aloud from Scott's 
 '' Kenilworth, " in preparation for the mor- 
 row's visit to that castle. 
 
 " Just think of seeing the very spot in the 
 garden where Queen Elizabeth met Amy Eob- 
 sart! And perhaps the same room where she 
 slept. Oh, I can hardly wait till morning! " 
 sighed Betty rapturously. ' ' Kenilworth ' ' had 
 long been one of her favorite books. 
 
 At bedtime Mrs. Pitt, inwardly rather uncer- 
 tain about the prospects of the weather, was out- 
 wardly most cheerful with her assurance that 
 she ' ' felt sure it would be fine in the morning. ' ' 
 
 Mrs. Pitt was '' usually right about things,'*" 
 as the children had long since discovered, and 
 this proved no exception to the rule. The sun 
 shone brightly on the morrow, and the whole 
 country-side looked as though it had been 
 washed and cleaned so as to appear at its love- 
 liest for the visitors. 
 
 The drive through Leamington revealed a 
 very pretty watering-place, with baths, parks, 
 gay streets of shops, and many neat little pri- 
 vate villas, each being dignified by a name. 
 
 ** How do they ever find names enough to go 
 around? " Betty thought to herself. 
 
WARWICK CASTLE 183' 
 
 They soon left the town behind, and a short 
 drive along the perfectly smooth, wide, country 
 road, brought them to the well-known bridge 
 over the Avon, and revealed the fact that the 
 river had not lost a bit of its beauty since they 
 left it at the Weir Brake. It is from this bridge 
 that the famous view of Warwick Castle is to 
 be had, and a more charming picture cannot 
 well be imagined. Just at a bend of the river, 
 the great gray front looms up, long and straight, 
 the turrets here and there giving it a most 
 formidable air of old-time majesty and strength. 
 
 Leaving the carriage at the castle entrance, 
 Mrs. Pitt led the way up the narrow walk, 
 bounded by high walls of rock, to which the 
 damp moss clings and over which flowers and 
 trailing vines hang. Finally they passed under 
 an old gate-way with a portcullis, and found 
 themselves in the inner court-yard of the castle, 
 which is almost round in shape. Old towers or 
 buildings very nearly surround this court, and 
 in the center is a wonderfully smooth grass-plot, 
 which is sometimes used as a tennis-court. Sev- 
 eral stately peacocks strutted about displaying 
 their magnificent feathers. They were very 
 tame, and almost allowed Betty to come near 
 
1 84 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 enough to touch them. She was delighted when 
 the largest most obligingly dropped a gorgeous 
 feather at her very feet. 
 
 *^ For a souvenir! " she exclaimed, as she 
 picked it up. ' ' How dear of him ! I like pea- 
 cocks even if they are proud ! I would be, if I 
 lived here ! They know how important they are, 
 and that this garden wouldn't be complete with- 
 out them. ' ' 
 
 '' Do you see that high mound? " asked Mrs. 
 Pitt, pointing to the northern end of the court. 
 li There ^thelflaed, the daughter of Alfred the 
 Great, is supposed to have built a castle, and 
 thus the history of Warwick may be said to have 
 commenced in 914. Just fancy ! Since that day, 
 many great families have been in possession 
 here (De Newburghs, Beauchamps, Nevilles, 
 Plantagenets), — from traditional Guy of War- 
 wick to ' Warwick the King-maker,' and all 
 along the line to the Greville family, which has 
 owned it since 1759. ' Warwick the King- 
 maker,' or Eichard Neville, was the famous 
 baron who possessed such wonderful power in 
 England that he could make and unmake kings 
 at his will. It was he who captured poor, weak 
 Edward IV, and brought him here as a prisoner. 
 

WARWICK CASTLE 185 
 
 Of Guy of Warwick, the great warrior and hero, 
 I shall tell you more when we are at Guy's Cliff, 
 where he lived. He is really more associated 
 with that place than this. You will see here, 
 however, what is known as * Guy's Porridge 
 Pot.' It is an interesting old vessel, very large 
 and made of metal. Most probably it had 
 nothing whatever to do with the great Guy; 
 some authorities consider, because of the ex- 
 istence of this little rhyme, that it belonged to 
 a certain Sir John Talbot, who died about 1365. 
 
 " * There is nothing left of Talbot's name, 
 But Talbot's pot and Talbot's Lane.' 
 
 But let 's go over to that door by which we enter. 
 There comes a guide with his party; perhaps 
 we can go in with them. ' ' 
 
 They found the interior of Warwick Castle 
 very delightful, and in a perfect state of pres- 
 ervation, for the family of the present Earl 
 occupy it often. The ever-present Great Hall 
 is here more grand and lofty than that of 
 Charlecote, though it has not the appearance of 
 as great antiquity as the one at beautiful Pens- 
 hurst Place. Its walls are lined with old suits of 
 armor, but, nevertheless, the room is furnished 
 
1 86 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 with comfortable easy-chairs, as the family, 
 when in residence, use this as their living-room. 
 Among the collection of armor is the helmet of 
 Oliver Cromwell, and a whole miniature suit of 
 mail which was once worn by the little dwarfed 
 son of Eobert Dudley, the famous Earl of Leices- 
 ter. In a great bay-window, overlooking the 
 Avon, stands the huge caldron of Guy of War- 
 wick. Strangely enough, an exquisite Eliza- 
 bethan saddle of green velvet had found a tem- 
 porary resting-place in its great depths. 
 
 ' ' I think this Cedar Eoom is very beautiful, ' * 
 remarked Mrs. Pitt, as they stepped into that 
 apartment. ' ' Do you see that the walls are en- 
 tirely of cedar wood from floor to ceiling? Isn't 
 the effect rich, and doesn't it smell good? Do 
 you notice the fine carving, and the pictures, — 
 some of Van Dyck's best works? Oh! I must 
 not call your attention to so many things all at 
 once! " 
 
 In the Green Drawing-room, the Red Draw- 
 ing-room, the State Bed-room, and the various 
 other rooms and corridors, are priceless treas- 
 ures of art ; for besides invaluable paintings by 
 the greatest masters, there are here beautiful 
 pieces of furniture, made of tortoise-shell and 
 
WARWICK CASTLE 187 
 
 inlaid with gold or pearl, and ancient marriage- 
 chests, which once belonged to Italian princesses 
 of bygone days. The armory contains one of 
 the most valuable collections in England, and in 
 the State Bedroom are many relics of Queen 
 Anne. One really wearies of so much costliness 
 which it is utterly impossible to appreciate at 
 one visit. 
 
 " Haven't we time to walk in the gardens a 
 little longer? " asked Barbara, wistfully. To 
 her, Nature was nearer and dearer than all the 
 wonders of art and history. 
 
 After a ramble through the bewitchingly 
 lovely gardens, — going across ancient draw- 
 bridges, spanning long-unused, grass-grown 
 moats; under little postern-gates; into rustic 
 grottoes — they at last came to the conservatory, 
 in which is preserved the ** Warwick Vase." 
 This is made of white marble, carved with vari- 
 ous devices. 
 
 " It has a curious history," answered Mrs. 
 Pitt, in reply to the children's questions. '' In 
 1770, some workmen found it at the bottom of a 
 small lake which is about sixteen miles from 
 Rome. Of course, it is not possible to deter- 
 mine with any certainty how it came to be there, 
 
i88 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 but as Hadrian's Villa was in A.D. 546 occupied 
 by a king of tbe Goths, an enemy who was then 
 laying siege to Eome, it has been thought that 
 the vase was cast into the lake, to save it from 
 the hands of the invaders. The second Earl of 
 Warwick was its purchaser." 
 
 Slowly and unwillingly they wended their way 
 back through the gardens, to the central court 
 of the castle, and then out under the old gate- 
 way. 
 
 " My! " cried John, *' it must have taken 
 heaps of soldiers to defend a place like this in 
 the Middle Ages ! I wish I'd been here when it 
 was just plumb full of great warriors, — ^when 
 the moat had water in it, the drawbridge 
 worked, and sentinels called out to you for the 
 password as you came near the gate. I sup- 
 pose they could peep out at you from those little 
 windows up high, too." John looked longingly 
 back, as they walked away. 
 
 '* Oh, yes! " continued Mrs. Pitt, in tones 
 which made the girls shudder. " From those 
 windows they rained shot down upon the enemy. 
 And there are little slits in the wall from which 
 men poured boiling metal or tar upon those be- 
 sieging the castle. Upon the roof of Guy's 
 
WARWICK CASTLE 189 
 
 Tower there, it is thouglit that a huge machine 
 used to stand, — a machine for slinging down 
 great stones. Oh, yes; there were dungeons 
 here, too, — deep, dark, damp, and evil-smelling 
 dungeons, into which many prisoners were 
 thrown. Why, it was from here that Piers 
 Gaveston, the unfortunate favorite courtier of 
 Edward II, was taken out and executed upon a 
 hill close by. Underneath the fine halls where 
 splendid banquets were carried on, out of sight 
 and reach of the fair gardens and lawns, there 
 were always poor prisoners who were shut away 
 from the daylight for years perhaps, and labori- 
 ously carving crests or verses in the stone walls, 
 to while away the hours." 
 
 Mrs. Pitt suddenly burst into peals of laugh- 
 ter as she saw the pained expressions upon the 
 faces of the two girls ; then a glance at the rapt, 
 enthusiastic attention of John, caused her to be- 
 come serious again. 
 
 " Never mind, girls," she said gravely. 
 '* Such things are now gone forever; people 
 have advanced too far in their ideas to ever per- 
 mit of more of those unjust acts and horrible 
 punishments. I can never believe that the world 
 isn't growing daily better! And, boys, it is aU 
 
I90 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 very well to love and long for the golden deeds 
 and knightly ideals of the men of mythical King 
 Arthur's Court, for instance; read about them 
 all you can, and try to imitate them, but never 
 wish back the terrible conditions of warfare and 
 brutality which existed at the time. The kindly 
 thoughts and acts will endure always, but the 
 rest, — ^never! " 
 
 Silently they took their seats in the carriage, 
 and the coachman next drove them to Saint 
 Mary's. Church, which stands in the quaint vil- 
 lage of Warwick. Its old tower holds ten bells, 
 and these play every four hours. There is a 
 different tune for each day, which is always 
 changed at midnight. The Warwick towns- 
 people, living near their church, must have an 
 enviable musical education, for they have con- 
 tinually dinned in their ears all sorts of tunes, 
 from the " Easter Hymn " to " The Blue Bells 
 of Scotland." 
 
 On the site of Saint Mary's, an ancient church 
 is believed to have stood, prior to William the 
 Conqueror. The present edifice, having been 
 much altered and added to by various bene- 
 factors, and at very various times, presents a 
 rather confused and not especially pleasing ap- 
 
WARWICK CASTLE 191 
 
 pearance architecturally. All visitors to the 
 town are attracted there, however, by the pres- 
 ence of the Beauchamp Chapel, which contains 
 the tomb of the Earl of Leicester. 
 
 Having paid the entrance fee, Mrs. Pitt and 
 her charges were permitted to descend the few 
 steps leading from the church proper into the 
 Beauchamp Chapel. It is very beautiful, and 
 was built in 1443, by "William Beauchamp, Earl 
 of Warwick, who intended it as his memorial. 
 It was once most elaborate with its fine marbles, 
 monuments adorned with precious stones, and 
 the gold statuettes which filled its niches, but 
 these have long since been carried away. The 
 tomb of Ambrose Dudley, who was named the 
 " Good Earl of Warwick," stands in the center, 
 and against the wall is that of the great 
 Leicester and the Countess, his wife. 
 
 '* Look here," called Mrs. Pitt. " Here lies 
 their son, the little boy who wore the armor 
 which you saw over at the castle. The inscrip- 
 tion speaks of him as ' That noble impe, the 
 young Lord Denbigh, their infant son and heir. ' 
 ' Impe ' in those days had no such meaning of 
 mischievous as we give it to-day. It then simply 
 signified a young boy. ' ' 
 
192 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Betty was mucli impressed by a small fliglit of 
 winding stairs, just off the chapel, which are 
 entirely worn down in the middle. 
 
 '' Was it because so many monks went up 
 there? " she asked. 
 
 " Yes, so it is said," was Mrs. Pitt's reply. 
 *' Perhaps it may have been a kind of con- 
 fessional, where the monks knelt." 
 
 There was one more thing in the church which 
 they paused to note ; that is, the tomb of Fulke 
 Greville, the first Lord Brooke, who was stabbed 
 by a valet, in 1628. Greville was *' servant to 
 Queene Elizabeth, conceller to King James, and 
 frend to Sir Philip Sidney," as the inscription 
 tells us ; and it would seem that the greatest em- 
 phasis and respect was even then given the fact 
 that he was " frend to " the noble Sir Philip 
 Sidney. 
 
 Nearby, the quaint buildings of Leicester's 
 Hospital still stand. Here was a monastery un- 
 til the Dissolution, or the breaking up, of all the 
 religious houses, under Henry VIIL When the 
 property came into the hands of Leicester in 
 1571, he made the house into a hospital for 
 twelve men. The present brethren have all been 
 soldiers of the Crown, who now receive a pen- 
 
WARWICK CASTLE 193 
 
 sion and are spending the remainder of their 
 days in the sunny nooks and corners of the old 
 timbered houses. One of these brethren who 
 showed the party about, was a most curious old 
 character, and afforded the young people no 
 end of amusement. He invariably gave his in- 
 formation in a very loud voice, which was 
 absolutely without expression, and his eyes 
 were kept steadily fixed upon some distant 
 point. 
 
 He showed them the ancient hall in which Sir 
 Fulke Greville once received King James, and 
 it seemed to give him the keenest pleasure to de- 
 scribe how that King was ' ' right royally enter- 
 tained. ' ' 
 
 '* Oh, ye 're right, lady," he panted, ** the 
 'ospital was founded by Eobert Dudley, Lord 
 Leicester, 'e '0 was much at Elizabeth's court, 
 h'as you all know. And it's a descendant h'of 
 'is, or of 'is sister, as you may say, 'o 'as the 
 right to appoint the master 'ere in this 'ospital 
 to this day. E's Lord D 'Lisle and Dudley, of 
 Penshurst Place h'in Kent, — 'im as is descended 
 direct from the Lady Mary, sister of Eobert 
 Dudley, 'o married Sir 'Enry Sidney. H'its 'e 
 '0 appoints the master h'over us this very day. 
 
194 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 But as I was saying, — ^it was 'ere that 'is 
 Majesty King James was right royally k 'enter- 
 tained. ' ' 
 
 ' ' Yes, ' ' broke in John, interrupting the rapid 
 flow of expressionless words. '' We'll remem- 
 ber that all right." Then in an aside to Philip, 
 he whispered: " That's the ninth time he has 
 said ' right royally entertained.' I'm going to 
 keep count." 
 
 Having examined an embroidered curtain, the 
 work of Amy Robsart at Cumnor Hall, the King 
 of Dahomey's State Execution Sword, which 
 seemed a bit out of place amid the surroundings, 
 and an old battle-ax, supposed to have been used 
 for one side or the other on the Field of 
 Hastings, in 1066, they bade farewell to their 
 guide (who had suddenly ceased his mechanical 
 orations like a clock which has run down), and 
 drove away toward Kenilworth. 
 
 Guy's Cliff next called for attention. It is 
 first seen at the end of a long, stately avenue 
 lined by great trees. At the back of the cattle 
 flows a stream, at this point widened out into 
 a miniature lake, on the bank of which stands 
 a very ancient, moss-covered Saxon mill. The 
 castle across the water and the old mill make 
 
WARWICK CASTLE 195 
 
 STicli very attractive pictures that their vicinity 
 is always frequented by numbers of artists, sit- 
 ting under their big umbrellas. 
 
 As the party stood under the trees by the 
 mill, Mrs. Pitt gathered the young people about 
 her. 
 
 ' ' Now, I want to tell you the story of Guy of 
 Warwick, for whom this Guy's Cliff was called. 
 He lived long, long ago (if he really did live 
 at all), when England had great tracts of un- 
 settled country, where men were afraid to go for 
 fear of horrible monsters. This brave young 
 Guy was a strong warrior, and he became fa- 
 mous because he slew the Dun cow, and other 
 terrible animals which were tormenting the 
 country folk. Guy later went off to the Cru- 
 sades. These were pilgrimages which devout 
 men made to Jerusalem, in the endeavor to win 
 back that city from the Turks. Guy was gone 
 some time from England — years probably — and 
 when he came back, he lived the life of a hermit, 
 in a cave near here. The story goes that his 
 wife used to carry food to him each day, and 
 that she never recognized him until he was dy- 
 ing and revealed to her his identity." 
 
 Here Mrs. Pitt was forced to pause for breath, 
 
196 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 and John broke in excitedly, '' Oh, let's go and 
 see the cave! Can't we?" 
 
 *' I'm afraid not, John. You see, Guy's Cliff 
 belongs to Lord Algernon Percy, and the cave 
 is on his private premises. I fear we would not 
 be allowed to visit it, — especially as the family 
 is now in residence at the castle. Did I tell 
 you that Guy and his faithful wife were buried 
 together in the cave? " 
 
 After taking lunch at the King's Arms Hotel 
 ^t Kenilworth, and seeing the room in which 
 Scott wrote his novel, they proceeded to the 
 castle. The afternoon was warm and sunny, 
 with a blue sky and a summer haze over the 
 landscape, — the kind of afternoon which in- 
 vites one to day-dreams. Consequently, Mrs. 
 Pitt ensconced herself against the crumbling 
 wall of Caesar's Tower, put up her umbrella to 
 keep off the glare of the sun, and sat dreaming 
 over the remains of the once magnificent castle. 
 Meanwhile the young people, accompanied by a 
 guide, climbed all over the ruin. They scram- 
 bled up narrow stairs in thick walls, climbed as 
 high as it was safe to go on old towers, and ex- 
 plored the dark chambers and passages near the 
 old Banqueting-hall. 
 
KENILWORTH CASTLE 197 
 
 " This tower is supposed to be where Amy 
 Eobsart's lodgings were," their dignified guide 
 told them, and then he boldly spoiled Betty's de- 
 light, by saying, * ' It's queer now how fascinated 
 all visitors are by Amy Robsart. Of course, 
 they've read of her in Scott's novel, but curi- 
 ously enough, that's the only part of the tale 
 which is not taken strictly from history. No 
 one really knows whether Amy Eobsart ever 
 was at Kenilworth, and at any rate, it doesn't 
 seem at all likely that she was here at the 
 time of Queen Elizabeth's famous visit of 1563." 
 
 " dear! " Betty sighed, really bitterly dis- 
 appointed. " I always liked the part about 
 Amy best of all, and now it isn't true at all ! " 
 
 '* Never mind. Miss; there would be plenty of 
 interest attached to the old place, even if Scott 
 had never written of it. Oh, I know it's a great 
 book, and makes that particular period of Ken- 
 ilworth 's history remarkably vivid. What I 
 mean is, that the old castle is not dependent on 
 Scott for its grand history and reputation." 
 He looked above him at the beautiful oriel-win- 
 dows of the Banqueting-hall, as if he loved every 
 stone there. After a few such speeches, even 
 the children began to notice that he was ' ' dif - 
 
198 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 ferent from most guides "; he used most ex- 
 cellent English, was very neatly dressed, had a 
 pleasant, refined face, and seemed to take an 
 especial interest in the young people. 
 
 The guide went on in his deep voice. ' ' Ken- 
 ilworth was built in 1120, by Geoffrey de Clin- 
 ton, Lord Chamberlain to Henry I. Later, it 
 came into the possession of the great Simon de 
 Montfort, and it then successfully withstood a 
 siege; but it was during the Civil Wars that 
 Cromwell's soldiers reduced the splendid castle 
 to these almost equally splendid ruins. Of 
 course, it was at the height of its glory when the 
 Earl of Leicester owned it, and Queen Elizabeth 
 came here on a visit. I'm sure you have all read 
 about that famous week, — of all the pageants, 
 feasts, carnivals, and displays of fireworks upon 
 the lake. The lake was there; water covered 
 all those low fields back of the castle. At that 
 time, the main approach was here," pointing to 
 where a rustic bridge crosses a little ravine. 
 II There was once a large bridge there, and 
 from that entrance the Queen had her first 
 glimpse of the castle where she was to be so 
 magnificently entertained. ' ' 
 
 Just then Barbara saw that her mother had 
 
KENILWORTH CASTLE 199 
 
 risen and was motioning that it was time for 
 them to go. So they reluctantly left the guide, 
 thanking him as Philip handed him his fee. 
 That gentleman (for so he really seemed) 
 doffed his hat most politely, and appeared 
 genuinely sorry to have them go. As Betty 
 turned to take a last look at the old Banqueting- 
 hall, she saw him standing just where they had 
 left him, and a bit wistfully watching them walk 
 away. When they were once again in the car- 
 riage and driving toward Coventry, they de- 
 scribed the guide to Mrs. Pitt, who showed much 
 interest. Barbara thought that he was a poor 
 scholar or teacher, who was taking that way of 
 earning a little during the summer months; 
 John was sure he was a nobleman in disguise, 
 for some highly romantic, secret reason; Philip 
 could not even imagine who he might be, so 
 great was the mysterious atmosphere about 
 him; but Betty added: *' He's surely a gentle- 
 man, and he was such an interesting, polite 
 guide, that I wish they were all like him. ' ' 
 
 ' ' Yes, it is curious, ' ' agreed Mrs. Pitt. * ' I'd 
 like to have been along with you, for I should 
 have enjoyed studying him. I have once or 
 twice before come across just such puzzling 
 
200 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 characters. I once spent a month at a small 
 hotel down in Devonshire, where there was a 
 head-waiter who always interested me. I de- 
 cided that he must have a history, and it was 
 proved that I was right when I discovered him 
 a few months later, dining with a lady at one of 
 the most aristocratic hotels in London. I'll 
 never forget my sensations when I realized why 
 Ms face was so familiar, and where I had seen 
 it before ! That mystery was never explained, 
 and I'm afraid yonrs never will be." 
 
 They found Coventry a delightful old town. 
 Here it was that so many of the Miracle Plays 
 used to be given in olden times. The ' ' Coven- 
 try Plays " were famous, and Mrs. Pitt took 
 the party to the court-yard of Saint Mary's 
 Hall, where they were wont to be performed ; for 
 such entertainments always took place in the 
 open air, — in squares or courts, the stage being 
 rudely constructed upon a wagon, which could 
 be taken from place to place. 
 
 At the corner of two streets is an absurd fig- 
 ure of ' ' Peeping Tom, ' ' which recalls the fabled 
 ride of the Lady Grodiva, and her sacrifice to 
 procure the freedom of the people of Coventry 
 from unjust taxes. 
 
KENILWORTH CASTLE 201 
 
 Coventry streets are very narrow and crooked 
 (Hawthorne once said that they reminded him 
 of Boston's winding ways), and there are many 
 picturesque houses, their upper stories jutting 
 out over the street. One most charming ex- 
 ample of sixteenth century architecture is 
 Ford's Hospital, a home for forty aged women. 
 The street front is unique in its construction 
 of timbers, gables, and carvings. Inside 
 is an oblong, paved court, overhung by the sec- 
 ond story of the building. 
 
 '^ It's like Leicester's Hospital at Warwick, 
 only this is really more quaint, isn't it? The 
 old ladies peeping out from their little rooms 
 are dear! I'm going to make friends with 
 them," Betty declared, as she disappeared un- 
 der one of the low doorways. She was soon 
 seen accompanying an old dame on crutches, 
 who was hobbling out to show off her bit of a 
 garden, back of the house. 
 
 On the return trip to Leamington, they were 
 rather quiet. Having seen so many famous 
 places, it was natural that they should wish to 
 think them over. The driver approached Leam- 
 ington by another road than that by which they 
 had left it, and it took them past Stoneleigh Ab- 
 
202 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 bey, the country seat of Lord Leigh. It is situ- 
 ated in the midst of woodland, which has been 
 called " the only real bit of old Arden Forest 
 now to be found in Warwickshire. ' ' 
 
 '^ They say that the Abbey is remarkably 
 beautiful," said Mrs. Pitt, " but I've never been 
 fortunate enough to see it at any nearer range. 
 The house is not very old, having been erected 
 in the eighteenth century, but it stands on the 
 site of a Cistercian Abbey, of which one gate- 
 way still remains." 
 
 It was late when they reached the hotel at 
 Leamington, and they were forced to hurry in 
 order to be dressed in time for dinner. The 
 gong found them all assembled, however, for 
 such a day of sight- seeing makes one hungry. 
 They all had a good laugh at Betty, for when 
 she was caught in a " brown study," and Mrs. 
 Pitt asked to hear her thoughts, she replied : 
 
 " Oh, I was thinking over what a lovely day 
 it has been, — especially at Kenilworth! " and 
 then added with a sigh, ^' If I only could know 
 who that guide was, everything would be per- 
 fect I " 
 
CHAPTER FOURTEEN 
 
 SHEEWOOD FOEEST AND HADDON HALL 
 
 Betty could scarcely sit still in the train 
 which was carrying her towards Mansfield, from 
 sheer excitement at the anticipation of actually 
 seeing the hamits of Robin Hood. Ever since 
 Mrs. Pitt had mentioned that town as the gate- 
 way of the Sherwood Forest of Betty's dreams, 
 the name had seemed an enchanted one to her. 
 As they had come only the comparatively short 
 journey from Leeds, they arrived at Mansfield 
 in the middle of the morning, and being Fri- 
 day, the public square presented its usual busy 
 scenes of market-day. Venders were shouting 
 their wares, long-suffering babies who had been 
 unwillingly brought along were crying, women 
 were loudly chattering in shrill voices, and a 
 poor little dog, who in some mysterious way was 
 being made to play a part in a Punch and Judy 
 Show, was yelping piteously. 
 
 ** Well," began Betty, who could think of only 
 203 
 
204 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Eobin Hood — ^her dear hero, whose story was 
 about to be made even more vivid to her — ' ' per- 
 haps this is the very market where he came 
 when he had bought out the butcher's stock of 
 meat and was selling it for kisses to the lasses of 
 the town. Oh, do you suppose it is the same 
 place? " 
 
 ' ' Why, no ! " interrupted John, in the decisive 
 tones which he always used when confident of 
 his superior knowledge. " ' Nottingham Town ' 
 was where Eobin Hood and his whole gang of 
 f eUows always went ! ' ' 
 
 *' Yes, that was really more associated with 
 the famous outlaw than Mansfield. You'll see 
 Nottingham this afternoon, or, at any rate, to- 
 morrow. Now, come this way to the Swan Ho- 
 tel. While you girls unpack, I'll see that some 
 horses are harnessed so that we can soon set off 
 to the forest. ' ' Mrs. Pitt then led the way from 
 the market-square toward the inn of which she 
 had spoken. 
 
 Before the carriage was ready, the young peo- 
 ple had thoroughly explored this remarkable old 
 house. Perhaps the most notable thing about it 
 is the spiral staircase of solid oak, which is 
 three hundred years old ; but the entire building 
 
SHERWOOD FOREST 205 
 
 is filled with little passages and unexpected, re- 
 mote nooks and corners, wMcli, like the quaint 
 bedrooms, are crowded with curios, old pic- 
 tures, and superb antique furniture. Betty de- 
 clared she had never seen such a '* darling old 
 four-poster " as the one which stood in her 
 room, the favorite Number Nine for which all 
 visitors clamor. Altogether, they considered it 
 a most delightful place, and Betty thought that 
 without too great a stretch of the imagination, 
 she could even think of Eobin Hood or Little 
 John there. 
 
 The hostess hastened to prepare a delicious, 
 early lunch especially for the party, and having 
 partaken of it, they went at once to the open 
 carriage which was drawn up in the odd little 
 inn-yard. John, as usual, claimed the seat be- 
 side the driver, the others settled themselves, 
 and they started off. 
 
 No sooner had they reached the open coun- 
 try than Betty's pent-up spirits overflowed en- 
 tirely. 
 
 '' Oh, do you see that little river flowing 
 through the meadows'? " she suddenly cried, 
 standing up to point at it excitedly. ' ' See the 
 reeds along its edges, the field of tall grain, and 
 
2o6 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 the old tree trunk which has fallen across the 
 water! I just know that must be the place 
 where Eobin first met Little John. They 
 had a fight on a narrow foot-bridge, you know, 
 and Little John (who wasn't ' little ' at all) 
 was the stronger, and tumbled Eobin Hood over 
 into the brook. Don't you remember, John? 
 That looks exactly like the picture in my 
 Howard Pyle's ' Robin Hood,' at home. Oh, 
 I'm perfectly sure it must be the same place! 
 Aren't you, Mrs. Pitt? " 
 
 This enthusiasm of Betty's was soon caught 
 by the rest, and during the whole afternoon they 
 took turns in telling, one after another, the 
 '' Merry Adventures of Robin Hood," as they 
 recalled them. There could not be a section of 
 country which more perfectly suggests the set- 
 ting for that particular group of legends which 
 has been associated with it. Here surely is the 
 identical woodland through which Robin Hood 
 and his merry men roamed. No one could pos- 
 sibly mistake it ! Here are the very same trees, 
 behind which one can almost see lurking the men 
 in ' ' Lincoln green. ' ' Here are ideal little glades 
 carpeted with dainty ferns, here and there 
 touched with the sunlight which flashes between 
 
SHERWOOD FOREST 207 
 
 the leaves. Sometimes the road emerges from 
 the forest, and winds along through broad 
 fields, — the '' high road '* bordered by green 
 meadows and hedgerows. 
 
 '* You know," began Mrs. Pitt, her eyes 
 sparkling with fun, '' when Robin and his men 
 had been in hiding for some days or weeks, per- 
 haps, because the old Sheriff of Nottingham was 
 trying particularly hard to catch them at the 
 time, some of the most venturesome ones, not 
 being able to exist longer under the restraint, 
 would start off in search of adventure ; and leav- 
 ing a bit reluctantly the heart of Sherwood For- 
 est, they always made straight for the ' high 
 road.' Now in just such a place as this, by the 
 cross-roads. Little John, garbed as a gray friar, 
 met the three lasses who were carrying their 
 eggs to the market at Tuxford. He swung one 
 basket from his rosary, about his neck, and took 
 one in either hand, and thus he accompanied the 
 maids to town. Am I right? Is that the 
 tale? " 
 
 ' ' Yes, ' ' continued Philip, taking up the story 
 where his mother had left off; '' then he went 
 to a ' fair, thatched inn,' you know, and he sat 
 drinking with the tinker, the peddler, and the 
 
208 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 beggar, when the two rich brothers from Foun- 
 tains Abbey came out to start again on their 
 journey to York. Little John thought there 'd 
 be some fun, and perhaps some good money for 
 him, if he decided to go part of the way with 
 them, so he did. Don't you remember that one 
 brother was very tall and thin, and the other 
 very short and stout? They were proud and 
 ashamed of being seen on the road in the 
 company of a poor friar whose gown was too 
 short for him, as was Little John's. But he 
 insisted upon staying by, and strode along be- 
 tween their two nags. Whenever they met any- 
 body — ^beggars, fair lords and ladies, or fat 
 Bishops — ^Little John called out : ' Here we go ; 
 we three ! ' " 
 
 ' ' And then, ' ' broke in Betty, her face literally 
 radiant, " don't you know how Little John 
 finally robbed them! That was best of all! 
 When they came to a certain parting of the 
 ways, he did consent to leave them, but first he 
 asked for a few pence, as he was poor. Both 
 brothers declared that they hadn't any money, 
 at which Little John insisted upon their kneel- 
 ing down on the dusty road and praying to the 
 good St. Dunstan to send them each ten shil- 
 
SHERWOOD FOREST 209 
 
 lings, so that they could continue their journey 
 in safety and comfort. You know, he thought 
 it such a pity for two such worthy brothers to 
 be in sore need of food and drink ! ' ' The chil- 
 dren were unconsciously lapsing into the lan- 
 guage of the Eobin Hood stories, as they rattled 
 on and on. 
 
 ' ' Well, ' ' Betty went on, ' ' Little John prayed 
 and prayed, and then he asked the brothers to 
 feel and see if the good St. Dunstan hadn't sent 
 them something. Time after time this perform- 
 ance was repeated, and still they said they had 
 nothing. Finally Little John himself felt in 
 their pouches and found, — oh, heaps of money ! 
 He left the brothers ten shillings each, and car- 
 ried away the rest, saying he was sure that the 
 good St. Dunstan had meant it for him ! Oh, I 
 think I like Little John best of all, — almost bet- 
 ter even than Eobin Hood ! He always did such 
 cute things ! ' ' 
 
 By this time, they were nearing some of the 
 big palaces which gave this section of the coun- 
 try the name of ' ' The Dukeries, ' ' from the fact 
 that so many noblemen have lived there. Earl 
 Manvers, the Duke of Newcastle, and the Duke 
 of Portland, all have tremendous estates be- 
 
210 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 tween the towns of Worksop and Edwinstowe. 
 Some of the stately houses were pointed out in 
 the distance behind the trees, but neither Bar- 
 bara nor Betty, Philip nor John, paid the slight- 
 est heed to them. Their minds were fixed on 
 Eobin Hood, and they saw only the Sherwood 
 Forest which he knew. When Betty looked at 
 Clumber House, across a pretty little lake, she 
 only said : 
 
 '* Perhaps near that lake was where Eobin 
 found Alan-a-Dale, the dear minstrel." 
 
 " Oh, no, Betty; it was by a fountain that he 
 found Alan-a-Dale, ' ' Barbara politely corrected. 
 
 '' Yes, that's so, Barbara," Betty replied, in 
 all seriousness. " I forgot." 
 
 There was one thing upon the estate of the 
 Duke of Portland which did greatly interest the 
 party, however; that is, an old gnarled oak 
 which is called '' Eobin Hood's Larder." 
 
 " Ye see, 'e came 'ere to store 'is venison, 
 and to 'ang it up to dry. 'E was a clever chap, 
 'e was. 'E 'id it inside the trunk. ' ' The driver 
 grinned from ear to ear, as he gave this valuable 
 information. 
 
 Getting out to explore, the children found that 
 the huge tree is hollow, and propped up to post- 
 
SHERWOOD FOREST 211 
 
 pone the sad day when it will surely collapse al- 
 together. Many old tree-trunks, all over Sher- 
 wood Forest, are like this, and in some of them 
 John could stretch his full length upon the 
 ground. Near " Eobin Hood's Larder " is the 
 spot where, according to Scott, the outlaw met 
 with King Eichard of the Lion Heart, — or, at 
 least, so say the local guidebooks. 
 
 "Yes," said Mrs. Pitt, understanding at 
 once; " don't you remember that in Scott's 
 ' Ivanhoe '? Another version of this famous 
 meeting is in Howard Pyle's book. King Rich- 
 ard was at Nottingham Town, you know, and 
 having a curious desire to meet with Robin 
 Hood, he and his friends went into Sherwood 
 Forest, dressed as friars. Robin and his men 
 found them, of course, and made them guests at 
 a feast. Later, there was shooting, and Robin 
 Hood, having once missed the mark, applied to 
 the King, whom he did not recognize, for a pun- 
 ishment. Thereupon King Richard arose, 
 rolled up his sleeve, and gave such a blow as 
 Robin had never felt before. It was afterwards 
 that Sir Richard of the Lea appeared upon the 
 scene, and disclosed the identity of the powerful 
 stranger. Then Robin Hood, Little John, Will 
 
212 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Scarlet, and Alan-a-Dale followed the King to 
 London at the royal wish, and left Sherwood for 
 many a long day." 
 
 They were now passing through a very dense 
 part of the wood. Close about the feet of the 
 oaks, a thick, tangled underbrush grows. Some 
 of the old trees seem to be gray with age, and 
 their whitish, twisted branches offer a sharp 
 contrast to the dark shadows, and make a weird, 
 ghostlike effect. 
 
 * ' Oh ! " exclaimed Betty, ' ' it must have been 
 in just such a spot as this in the forest that 
 Gurth in ' Ivanhoe ' suddenly came upon a com- 
 pany of Eobin Hood's men. Gurth was the 
 Saxon, you know. He had been to Isaac, the 
 Jew, at York, and was carrying back the ran- 
 som money to his master, Ivanhoe. Of course, 
 poor Gurth thought he would surely be robbed, 
 when he discovered in whose society he was ; but 
 as you said, Mrs. Pitt, Eobin Hood never took 
 money from honest men, especially when it was 
 not their own. They led Gurth farther and 
 farther into the depths of Sherwood. I can just 
 imagine it was a place like this, — ^where the 
 moonlight lit up these ghostly trees, and the red 
 glow of the camp-fire showed Gurth 's fright- 
 
SHERWOOD FOREST 213 
 
 ened face. He was quite safe, thougli, for lie 
 proved that the money was his master's, and 
 Eobin let him go, and even showed him the way 
 to the ' skirts of the forest, ' as he did the Sheriff 
 of Nottingham." 
 
 All this time the carriage had been rolling 
 along, and as they neared an open space in the 
 forest, John suddenly caught sight of something 
 which made him turn to his friend, the driver, 
 and exclaim: ''Oh, what are they?" 
 
 Stretching away for quite a distance on either 
 side of the road were rows and rows of tiny, 
 peaked houses or coops. The coachman told 
 them that here was where they breed the pheas- 
 ants which are hunted. When the birds have 
 reached a certain age, they are set free, and a 
 gun is fired in their midst to give them a taint 
 of the wild. John was much interested, in spite 
 of the fact that he considered it " a mean trick. ' ' 
 It really does not seem quite fair to take ex- 
 cellent, kindly care of any animal or bird, allow 
 it to believe you are its friend, and then to sud- 
 denly turn it loose and proceed to hunt it for 
 mere sport. 
 
 In strange contrast to the merry drive 
 through Sherwood Forest, was a little incident 
 
214 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 which occurred in a village on the edge of ' ' The 
 Dukeries ' ' district, where they halted to water 
 the horses. On one side of the quaint main 
 street is a row of old, old houses, where for 
 many years have lived the aged people who are 
 usually provided for by the nobleman to whom 
 that village belongs. 
 
 All the tiny houses were empty at the time of 
 this visit, with the exception of one where lived 
 a dear old lady, by herself, her neighbors hav- 
 ing all died. Mrs. Pitt went in to call upon her, 
 as do most strangers passing through here, and 
 was touched by her pathetic speech. She said 
 they were simply waiting to tear down the 
 houses until she should go, and looking tear- 
 fully up into Mrs. Pitt's face, added: " I'm 
 eighty-six years old now, and I won't last much 
 longer, but I can't go until the Lord calls me, 
 can II " In spite of this, she insisted that she 
 was quite happy, for she had her " good 
 feather bed," — and what more could she need? 
 
 The following morning, the party went by 
 train to Nottingham, where they spent a short 
 time in exploring. The present town is much 
 like others, except in its legendary connec- 
 tion with Eobin Hood. All visitors might not 
 
SHERWOOD FOREST 215 
 
 find it as fascinating as did Mrs. Pitt and the 
 young people, who knew it as the abode of the 
 disagreeable Sheriff whom Robin Hood heartily 
 hated, and upon whom he continually played so 
 many tricks, always evading punishment most 
 successfully. They pictured the gay procession 
 of soldiers and knights which accompanied King 
 John when he entered that city, as the Sheriff's 
 guest; and to them the old market- square (the 
 largest in all England) suggested the scene of 
 Eobin Hood's masquerade as a butcher. There 
 they halted and imagined him standing beside 
 his booth, and calling out: " Now who'll buy I 
 who'll buy? Four fixed prices have I. Three 
 pennyworths of meat I sell to a fat friar or 
 priest for sixpence, for I want not their cus- 
 tom ; stout aldermen I charge threepence, for it 
 doth not matter to me whether they buy or not ; 
 to buxom dames I sell three pennyworths of 
 meat for one penny, for I like their custom well ; 
 but to the bonny lass that hath a liking for a 
 good tight butcher, I charge nought but one 
 fair kiss, for I like her custom the best of 
 all." 
 
 ' * It was here in Nottingham that Will Stutely 
 had his narrow escape, wasn't it? " questioned 
 
2i6 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Betty. ' ' He was captured by the Sheriff 's men 
 at ' Ye Blue Boar Inn,' and they brought him 
 to town and would have hanged him, if Eobin 
 Hood and his men hadn't arrived just in time 
 to save his life. Once Little John came to Not- 
 tingham Town and lived for some time in the 
 Sheriff's own castle, pretending to be the cook. 
 My ! what lots of things happened here ! ' ' 
 
 Not far away are splendid Chatsworth House, 
 one of the palaces of the Duke of Devonshire, 
 and lovely Haddon Hall, with its romantic story, 
 and both of these famous places received a visit 
 from Mrs. Pitt and her party. 
 
 Chatsworth, I am afraid, was not fully ap- 
 preciated by our friends. It has a most beauti- 
 ful situation — in the valley of the Derwent, 
 which rushes along through the extensive park ; 
 the house itself is magnificent — ^filled with fine 
 marble halls and rooms, and costly treasures 
 of art; and in the gardens almost every sover- 
 eign of Europe seems to have planted some kind 
 of a tree. One curious thing did wonderfully 
 please the children's fancy; that is, a marvelous 
 weeping-willow tree, from the metal twigs and 
 branches of which tiny streams of water come at 
 a sign from the gardener. But somehow, on the 
 
HADDON HALL 217 
 
 whole, Chatsworth is cold and unfeeling, and 
 failed to appeal to the party. 
 
 Not so was it with Haddon Hall ! The most 
 prosaic summer tourist could hardly fail to be 
 moved by admiration of its delights. It is still 
 a real home, and seems alive with memories of 
 the fair Dorothy Vernon and her family. The 
 old castle has scarcely changed at all since the 
 sixteenth century, and one feels as though the 
 great lords and ladies of Queen Elizabeth's time 
 had thoughtfully stepped out on the teri:ace, in 
 order that we might wander through their noble 
 old dwelling. 
 
 The custodian was having her afternoon-tea 
 when the party arrived; she did not think of 
 hurrying in the slightest, but leisurely finished 
 this most important meal, and then received the 
 visitors' fees and allowed them to enter. 
 
 *' I feel as though I had walked into a story ! " 
 remarked Betty quietly. '' Is Dorothy at 
 home? " 
 
 The various buildings of Haddon Hall are 
 built around two square courts. The oldest bit 
 is the ancient chapel, in part dating from Nor- 
 man times, and in which the Vernon family 
 worshiped for four hundred years. It still 
 
2i8 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 contains some old wooden pews, and traces 
 of grotesque paintings may be seen upon its 
 walls. 
 
 " Where are we going now? "whispered Bar- 
 bara, keeping close to Betty, as the guide led 
 them down a very dark passage, with an uneven 
 stone floor. ' ' Oh, it 's the kitchen ! ' ' 
 
 A light had now been struck, and the huge fire- 
 places of this kitchen of bygone days could be 
 seen. Everything seemed complete, even to the 
 woodbox which once held the tremendous logs. 
 
 ^' How in the world could they see to cook 
 in such a dark place? " inquired the practical 
 John. 
 
 " Oh, there were probably great torches fas- 
 tened to the walls, and then there are some tiny 
 windows. When your eyes grow accustomed to 
 the dim light, you can see fairly well. I should 
 think, though, that once in a while, the cook 
 might have put a little too much salt in the 
 pasty," Mrs. Pitt replied laughingly. 
 
 An exceedingly curious feature of Haddon's 
 Banqueting-hall is an iron bracket with a ring, 
 which is between the entrance doors. Natu- 
 rally, Mrs. Pitt was called upon to explain this. 
 
 " Well," said she, " it's worth an explana- 
 
HADDON HALL 219 
 
 tion, for it has a strange purpose. Any guest 
 who could not or would not drink as much as 
 was required of htm by the laws of hospitality, 
 had his arm fastened up to that ring, and what 
 he had refused to take was poured down his 
 sleeve. Fancy! For my part, I should con- 
 sider that a sad waste ! Speaking of drinking, I 
 wonder if you really know what it means when 
 a man pledges or drinks a health. It's a very 
 ancient custom! Back in the days of Saxon 
 England, it very often happened that a man 
 would be stabbed while drinking, so it became 
 the habit for him to turn to his neighbor and 
 ask if he would ' pledge ' him. If he agreed, 
 his duty was to keep guard over his friend who 
 wished to drink. A trace of this caution still 
 exists at Queen's College, Oxford. There the 
 students who wait upon the ' fellows, ' stand be- 
 hind them and place their right thumbs upon the 
 table." 
 
 The round steps in the Long Gallery are said 
 to have been cut from one great oak, grown on 
 the estate. Up these they went, and followed 
 the guide to the celebrated Ball-room, which is 
 so often and so beautifully pictured. This long 
 room is exquisite with its carved paneling, pol- 
 
220 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 ished, inlaid floor, and lovely bay-windows over- 
 looking the terrace. 
 
 " Here the ball was in progress at the time 
 of Dorothy Vernon's escape. It was the wed- 
 ding night of Dorothy's sister, wasn't it? At 
 any rate, while every one was engrossed in the 
 dancing and merrymaking, Dorothy quietly 
 slipped away, ran through this door here, along 
 the terrace, and out to a certain tree in the park 
 where her lover was awaiting her with the 
 horses. That's the story, and certainly it is a 
 pretty one, ' ' concluded Mrs. Pitt. 
 
 Just off the Ball-room is the State Bed-room, 
 which claims to have had Queen Elizabeth as an 
 occupant. The great bed, fourteen feet six 
 inches high, is considered one of the finest in 
 England, and is finished in green velvet and 
 white satin. 
 
 They strolled out through Dorothy Vernon's 
 door and along the lovely terrace, over which 
 the solemn yew-trees hang low. From here is 
 seen a charming view of the garden, hemmed in 
 upon one side by that part of the castle con- 
 taining the Ball-room. The sun was just set- 
 ting as they lingered upon the steps of the ter- 
 race, and it flooded everything with a golden 
 
HADDON HALL 221 
 
 light. The scene was so beautiful that all were 
 silent as they gazed and gazed. Betty finally 
 rose with a deep sigh, and said: 
 
 " Well, I suppose Dorothy knew what she 
 was about, but I'm sure that I should never have 
 run away from Haddon Hall ! ' ' 
 
CHAPTER FIFTEEN 
 
 WINCHESTEB, SALISBUEY, AND STOISTEHENGE 
 
 It was not until they were well on their way 
 toward Winchester, that Mrs. Pitt fonnd a 
 chance to tell the young people something about 
 that ancient city which they were so soon to 
 see. 
 
 *' Winchester has a cathedral, hasn't it? " 
 Betty had inquired. '^ 1 always like to see 
 those." 
 
 '' Yes, indeed," replied Mrs. Pitt. '' There 
 surely is a cathedral, for it's the longest one in 
 all Europe with the exception of St. Peter's at 
 Eome. I'm certain you will enjoy that; but 
 what I think you'll appreciate even more are 
 the associations which Winchester has with the 
 life of Alfred the Great. You all remember 
 about him, don't you? " 
 
 ^' The fellow who burnt the cakes? " put in 
 John, jeeringly. 
 
 ' ' Yes, but he was also * the fellow ' who led 
 
 222 
 
WINCHESTER 223 
 
 his army at a time when the country was in 
 great danger — ^who dressed as a minstrel and 
 dared to go even into the very camp of the 
 enemy, so as to investigate their movements. 
 You certainly like that in him, John? " 
 
 " I know it! That was great! " John an- 
 swered warmly. " Please tell us some more 
 about him, Mrs. Pitt." 
 
 *' To me he has always been one of the most 
 lovable as well as admirable characters in all 
 our English history. He came to the throne at 
 a time when his wise leadership was greatly 
 needed, and he fought long and valiantly for his 
 country. "When he burnt the cakes, John, it was 
 merely because his thoughts were so busy with 
 the plans for England's future. Alfred made 
 Winchester the capital of his whole realm, and 
 here he lived with all the court, when there was 
 peace in the land. Part of Alfred's boyhood 
 had been spent here, too, when he was the pupil 
 of the wise St. Swithin ; and, at Winchester, he 
 made the good and just laws for which he will 
 always be remembered. Within the walls of 
 old Wolvesley Castle, the famous ' Anglo-Saxon 
 Chronicle ' was commenced, at the command of 
 the King. But besides all these useful deeds, 
 
224 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Alfred had such a beautiful personality that his 
 family and all the people of his kingdom loved 
 him, and called him ' the perfect King. ' I have 
 long admired this little tribute which one his- 
 torian has given Alfred the Great. He says 
 this ; I think these are the very words : ' He was 
 loved by his father and mother, and even by all 
 the people, above all by his brothers. As he ad- 
 vanced through the years of infancy and youth, 
 his form appeared more comely than that of his 
 brothers ; in look, in speech, and in manners, he 
 was more graceful than they. His noble nature 
 implanted in him from his cradle a love of wis- 
 dom above all things.' And so, through all the 
 centuries between his time and ours. King Al- 
 fred's name has stood for all that is just, kind, 
 wise, and beautiful." 
 
 '' Where was King Alfred buried, Mother? " 
 asked Barbara. 
 
 " I'll show you his grave — or what is sup- 
 posed to be his. But here we are at Win- 
 chester now! " cried Mrs. Pitt; '* and the sun 
 has come out just for our special benefit, 
 too! " 
 
 In a " cathedral town, ' ' one is usually drawn 
 first of all to the cathedral itself, it being the 
 
WINCHESTER 225 
 
 central point about wMch. the whole town seems 
 to cluster; and so it was that Mrs. Pitt led the 
 way down the shaded walk between the broad 
 stretches of lawn surrounding the great struc- 
 ture. To her great disappointment, an ugly 
 net-work of staging entirely spoiled the effect of 
 the exterior of the building. 
 
 ' ' I once read a book which an American wrote 
 about his trip abroad, ' ' related Mrs. Pitt. ' ' It 
 amused me very much ! After visiting a really 
 remarkable number of churches and important 
 buildings which were undergoing reconstruction 
 or strengthening, this gentleman ventured the 
 belief that the authorities must have made a 
 mistake in the date of his arrival, for everything 
 seemed to point to the preparation of a splendid 
 reception to him anywhere from a week to a 
 month later. I feel that way to-day. The Win- 
 chester people certainly could not have expected 
 us just yet. It's a pity that we cannot see this 
 grand cathedral at its best ! " 
 
 The usual feeling of quiet awe came over the 
 party upon entering the edifice, and this was 
 here somehow increased by the vastness of the 
 interior. Their footsteps echoed strangely on 
 the stone floor, and looking up at the arches 
 
226 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 above her head, Betty began to walk about on 
 tiptoe. 
 
 '' The marriage of Queen Mary with Philip 
 of Spain took place in this cathedral," Mrs. Pitt 
 said. " In Bishop Langton's Chapel here, is an 
 old chair said to have been used by the Queen 
 at the ceremony. Notice the six wooden chests 
 above that screen. They contain the bones of 
 some of the old, old kings — ^William Rufus, 
 Canute, Egbert, Ethelwolf, and others. Once 
 upon a time, there was a very famous shrine 
 here — that of St. Swithin. You remember the 
 legend which tells how the body of that saint was 
 delayed from being removed to the chapel al- 
 ready fitted to receive it, by forty days of rain. 
 That's why when we have nasty, rainy weather 
 in England, we always blame St. Swithin. 
 
 " I'll show you the tomb of the well-known 
 authoress, Jane Austen, and that of Izaak Wal- 
 ton, who is buried in one of the chapels. The 
 former lived her last days and died in this town, 
 and it was in the little river Itchen which flows 
 through Winchester, that Izaak Walton used to 
 fish. They were both laid to rest here in the 
 cathedral, near the scenes which they dearly 
 loved." 
 
WINCHESTER 227 
 
 The environs of tlie cathedral are very pretty, 
 and one of the most picturesque features is the 
 old Deanery, where Charles 11 once lodged. 
 Just outside the cathedral close is the modest 
 little house which was Jane Austen's home. 
 
 Winchester School was visited, — a very fa- 
 mous old institution which is connected with 
 New College, Oxford, and was built by William 
 of Wykeham in 1396, — and the vine-covered 
 ruins of old Wolvesley Castle, which stand on 
 the outskirts of the town, and near the river. 
 
 " Didn't you say that this was where King 
 Alfred had them write the ' Anglo-Saxon Chron- 
 icle '? " Betty asked of Mrs. Pitt. '' Will you 
 please tell us what that was? I don't seem to 
 remember very well. ' ' 
 
 ' ' Well, dear, the ' Anglo-Saxon Chronicle ' is 
 the ' first history of the English People,' as 
 some one has correctly said. Part of it was 
 written by Alfred himself, and the rest was done 
 by others, under his direction. It is simply a 
 record of all important events which were writ- 
 ten down as they took place. The ' Chronicle ' 
 grew and grew for about two hundred and fifty 
 years, the last mention being of the accession 
 to the throne of Henry II, in 1154. For many 
 
22 8 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 years it was kept here at its birthplace, but it 
 has now been moved to the library of Corpus 
 Christi College at Oxford. You see, therefore, 
 that this important work really marked the start 
 of the wonderful succession of literary produc- 
 tions which Englishmen have brought forth in 
 these one thousand years." 
 
 Quite at the other end of the town from 
 Wolvesley Castle is the County Court, a fine old 
 hall, which once upon a time formed part of a 
 castle built by William the Conqueror. Mrs. Pitt 
 had some difficulty in finding the caretaker who 
 could admit them, and not until they were actu- 
 ally inside did the children understand why 
 she was so very anxious that they should 
 see it. 
 
 Many were the exclamations of delight, how- 
 ever, when the guide pointed to the wall at one 
 end of the Norman room, and told them that the 
 round, flat object hanging thereupon was 
 " King Arthur's Eound Table." 
 
 " What! " cried Betty, her mouth wide open 
 in her excitement, ' * the very table at which the 
 knights sat! — Sir Lancelot, Sir Gawain, Sir 
 Perceval, Sir Galahad, and all the rest ! Why, I 
 never knew it was here, or I should have come to 
 
WINCHESTER 229 
 
 see it before anything else ! To think of it 's be- 
 ing the real table ! ' ' 
 
 It was hard for Mrs. Pitt to tell Betty that all 
 the legends concerning this table are pure fic- 
 tion. * ' Not all authorities consider its identity 
 absolutely certain," she admitted unwillingly, 
 '* but we're going to believe in it just the same. 
 It must date from the sixth century! Fancy! 
 However, it was all repainted in the time of 
 Henry VIII, and these peculiar stripes and de- 
 vices were the work of some sixteenth century 
 brush. ' ' 
 
 Betty sat right down on the floor, and stared 
 up at the table of her adored King Arthur and 
 his knights. With much difficulty could Mrs. 
 Pitt persuade her to leave the hall, and that was 
 not accomplished until after Betty had trust- 
 ingly inquired of the guide whether he knew 
 where the chairs were in which the knights sat 
 when they gathered about the table, for " she'd 
 like so much to find them right away. ' ' 
 
 Passing under a gate of the' old city- wall, and 
 along the quaint streets of the town, the party 
 came to Hyde Abbey, — or what little now re- 
 mains of it. 
 
 '' Alfred's body was first buried in the old 
 
230 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 minster (catliedral) ; then it was carried to the 
 new; and last of all, it was removed by the 
 monks here to Hyde Abbey, which monastery 
 Alfred himself had founded. In the eighteenth 
 century the Abbey was almost entirely de- 
 stroyed, and then it was that Alfred's true 
 burial-place was lost sight of. Later still, in 
 making some excavations here, the workmen 
 found an ancient coffin which was examined and 
 believed to be that of the King. Eeverently it 
 was reburied and marked with a flat stone, and 
 this doubtful grave is the only trace we now 
 have of Alfred the Great." They had all 
 quietly followed Mrs. Pitt to the spot where, 
 across the way from the Abbey, they saw the 
 grave. 
 
 Before returning to the hotel that night, Mrs. 
 Pitt suggested that they go to see the old Hos- 
 pital of St. Cross. 
 
 " It's only about a mile from the town," 
 she said. '' There's a charming little path 
 along the banks of the Itchen, and I think 
 we'd enjoy the walk in the cool of the after- 
 noon. ' ' 
 
 Mrs. Pitt was quite correct. It proved a de- 
 lightful stroll, leading them to the fertile val- 
 
WINCHESTER 231 
 
 ley in which Henry de Blois built Ms Hospital 
 of St. Cross, by the side of the pleasant little 
 river. 
 
 " The Hospital was really founded by Henry 
 de Blois, but three centuries later. Cardinal 
 Beaufort took much interest in it, made some 
 changes and improvements, and greatly aided 
 in its support," the children were told. " To 
 this day, there is a distinction between the St. 
 Cross Brethren and the Beaufort Brethren, but 
 this is chiefly confined to the matter of dress. 
 Seventeen men are living here now, and are 
 most kindly treated, fed, clothed, and allowed to 
 plant and tend their own tiny gardens." 
 
 But the most interesting feature of St. Cross 
 — that which in so remarkably vivid a way holds 
 its connection with the past — is the dole. Since 
 the reign of King Stephen, no one applying for 
 food or drink at the Beaufort Tower of St. 
 Cross Hospital, has ever been turned away. To 
 each has been given, during all the centuries, a 
 drink of beer and a slice of bread. A slight dis- 
 tinction is made between visitors by the scrutiny 
 of the Brethren; for, to the tramp is handed a 
 long draught of beer from a drinking-horn 
 and a huge piece of bread, while to some are 
 
232 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 offered the old silver-mounted cup, and wooden 
 platter. 
 
 '^ Can we have some? " John inquired. " I 
 think I might not like the beer, but the bread 
 would be all right, and I'm hungry! " 
 
 In spite of Betty's reproving cry of " Why, 
 John ! " Mrs. Pitt motioned him to go up to the 
 gate, and ring. 
 
 " Yes, it's quite proper for us to apply for 
 the dole," she said. '^ Emerson and Carlyle 
 once did so, and I imagine they were not in any 
 greater need of it than are we. ' ' 
 
 As John received his portions and was look- 
 ing at them a bit dubiously, Philip called out to 
 him, '' Don't take so much that you can't eat 
 your dinner. Jack ! ' ' and then, seeing that John 
 had already set down the food untouched, they 
 all laughed merrily. 
 
 After breakfasting at Winchester the follow- 
 ing morning, an early train carried the party to 
 the town of Salisbury, there to see the fairest of 
 the English cathedrals, — ^that is, in Mrs. Pitt's 
 opinion, of course. 
 
 To say that Salisbury Cathedral stands in the 
 center of a velvet-like lawn, to mention the fact 
 that a little stream flows musically by, to add 
 
SALISBURY 233 
 
 that the towers and lines of the building itself 
 are wonderfully graceful, is attempting to 
 describe things as they exist, but wholly 
 inadequate in the impression which it gives to 
 the reader. There is an indescribable fascina- 
 tion about Salisbury Cathedral, which a person 
 must see to understand. Any one who is at all 
 responsive to the charm of great architecture, 
 can sit for hours under the old trees on the little 
 common, and drink in the whole scene, — the 
 beautiful building with its delicate shapes out- 
 lined in shadows upon the green grass. 
 
 ' ' No doubt it is a generally accepted fact that 
 Lincoln is the finest of the English cathedrals," 
 Mrs. Pitt explained after a time. " Perhajps 
 Durham comes next in line, and Canterbury has 
 great historical interest. I only assert that to 
 me Salisbury is the most beautiful. You know, 
 Betty, that the construction of most cathedrals 
 was extended over many years, — even many gen- 
 erations, usually. Salisbury was an exception 
 to that rule, for it was begun and finished within 
 forty years (1220 to 1260), and therefore has 
 rare harmony and uniformity of style. ' ' 
 
 There are many quaint streets and buildings in 
 the town of Salisbury, but these become familiar 
 
234 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 though always delightful sights to the visitor 
 who gives a good share of his time to old Eng- 
 land. Having noted the old-fashioned King's 
 Arms Inn, which was a secret meeting-place of 
 the Eoyalists after the battle of Worcester, the 
 party had an early lunch, and then set out to 
 drive the ten miles to Stonehenge. 
 
 The road which they took begins to ascend 
 gradually, and after about a mile and a half 
 brought them to the high mound which was once 
 '^ the largest entrenched camp in the kingdom," 
 according to Betty's leather-covered Baedek'jr. 
 This was the site of Old Sarum, a fort during 
 the Eoman occupation, and afterwards a Saxon 
 town. Numerous interesting remains of the 
 camp are here, and the high elevation affords 
 an excellent view of Salisbury and the sur- 
 rounding country. 
 
 The rest of the drive was not particularly en- 
 joyable. A sharp wind blew over the high Salis- 
 bury Plains, which are bare and not very pic- 
 turesque to see. In the center of this great 
 stretch of plain stands that strange relic of the 
 past known as Stonehenge. Being on an eleva- 
 tion, the stones stand out weirdly against the 
 sky as the visitor approaches, and give him a 
 
STONEHENGE 235 
 
 foretaste of the peculiar mystery which per- 
 vades the place. 
 
 The section is surrounded by a wire fence, and 
 a man collects a fee of a shilling before admit- 
 ting any one into the company of these gigantic 
 rocks, which are standing or lying about in vari- 
 ous positions. It seems as though there were 
 originally two great circles, one inside the other, 
 formed by huge oblong stones, set up on end as a 
 child might arrange his blocks. On the tops of 
 these, others are in some places still poised, 
 though many have fallen. One great stone lies 
 broken across the altar. 
 
 After the young people had climbed about and 
 thoroughly explored the ruins, they gathered 
 around Mrs. Pitt to hear her explanation of the 
 place. 
 
 " Well," she began, '' it is generally believed 
 that we see here the remains of an ancient tem- 
 ple of the Druids. They were half-mythical 
 creatures who are thought to have inhabited 
 England in prehistoric times. They worshiped 
 Nature, — particularly the Sun, and lived out- 
 of-doors entirely. Most people consider them 
 to have been the originators of this strange 
 work, though it has also been attributed to the 
 
236 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Saxons, the Danes, and, I believe, even the 
 Phoenicians. But no matter what people were 
 the real builders, there still remains the ques- 
 tion of how these tremendous stones were 
 brought here in days when there was no ma- 
 chinery, and in a district near which no stone- 
 quarries could possibly have been. That has 
 puzzled men in all ages." 
 
 The laughter and chatter of the members of 
 a large " Personally Conducted " party, who 
 were having their late lunch in the field just out- 
 side the picket-fence, grated upon Mrs. Pitt's 
 nerves. Even more than in a cathedral with 
 solid walls and a roof, here in this open-air, 
 ruined temple, dating from unknown ages, one 
 is filled with deepest reverence. It almost seems 
 possible to see the ancient Druids who wor- 
 shiped there, dressed in robes of purest white. 
 
 In spite of the blue sky, the bright sunshine 
 of early afternoon, and the nearness of very 
 noisy, human tourists, Betty so felt the strange 
 atmosphere which envelopes these huge sen- 
 tinels of the past, that she suddenly ex- 
 claimed : 
 
 " Oh, please, Mrs. Pitt, let's go back to Salis- 
 bury! I can't bear this any longer." 
 
STONEHENGE 237 
 
 So they drove slowly away over the fields, and 
 as Mrs. Pitt turned for a last glance behind, she 
 saw the stones looming up in lonely majesty, 
 and thought to herself, " They have a secret 
 which no one will ever know. ' ' 
 
CHAPTER SIXTEEN 
 
 CLOVELLY 
 
 A BIG, Mgh, lumbering coacli with four horses 
 was slowly carrying Mrs. Pitt and her young 
 charges toward Clovelly, — that most famous of 
 all English fishing- villages. Betty, having dis- 
 covered a photograph of it some weeks before, 
 had not ceased talking to the others of her great 
 desire to see the place; and finally Mrs. Pitt 
 postponed her plans for visiting other and more 
 instructive towns, packed up the young people, 
 and started for lovely Devonshire. '' Well," 
 the kind lady had thought to herself, ' ' perhaps 
 it will be just as well for them to have a short 
 holiday, and go to a pretty spot where they can 
 simply amuse themselves, and not have to learn 
 too much history. Bless their little hearts! 
 They surely deserve it, for their brains have 
 been kept quite busy all the spring, — and I be- 
 lieve I shall enjoy Clovelly once again, my- 
 self! " 
 
 238 
 
CLOVELLY 239 
 
 Now that they were actually there, the reali- 
 zation was proving even more delightful than 
 the anticipation. The weather was perfect, and 
 to drive along the cliffs and moors, with a fresh, 
 cool breeze blowing up from the blue water 
 below, was wonderfully exhilarating. Their 
 route led through a country where innumerable 
 bright red poppies grow in the fields of grain, 
 and where there are genuine '' Devonshire 
 lanes," shut in by tall hedges and wild flowers. 
 Sometimes they clattered through the narrow 
 streets of a tiny village, while the coachman 
 snapped his whip, and the postilion in his 
 scarlet coat and brass buttons, sounded his 
 bugle loudly. As they rolled by farmhouses, 
 heads would appear curiously at the windows, 
 while children ran out to watch that important 
 event, — the passing of the daily coach. One 
 rosy-cheeked girl in a blue pinafore tossed a 
 bunch of yellow cowslips up into Mrs. Pitt's lap, 
 calling out, ' ' Cowslips, lady ; thank ye ! " When 
 a sixpence was thrown down to her, she smiled, 
 courtesied primly, and then disappeared into the 
 nearest cottage, — one of plaster and thatch, 
 overgrown with roses. 
 However, the crowning joy of the day, even 
 
240 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 in the opinion of John, who was difficult to 
 please, was the first glimpse of quaint little 
 Clovelly itself. The coach set them down in 
 the middle of a field; a few seafaring men 
 stood about, there was a booth or two 
 where old women sold fruit, a steep path was 
 before them, but no town was anywhere in 
 sight. 
 
 " Don't let's go down there," John grumbled. 
 ^' What's the use? I'd much rather stay up 
 on that front seat with the driver. ' ' 
 
 Mrs. Pitt smiled knowingly, and still led the 
 way on down the walk. The hedges on either 
 side were so high and thick that they could not 
 see beyond them, and the children were really 
 speechless when the path suddenly came to an 
 end, and the whole queer little street of Clovelly 
 lay before them. For a second no word was 
 spoken, then all burst out at once. 
 
 " Well, what do you think of that? " chuckled 
 John. " Just look at the donkeys! " 
 
 * ' And the pink and white doll 's houses ! "ex- 
 claimed Barbara. 
 
 ' ' And the funny cobble-stone street ! ' ' cried 
 Philip. 
 
 ** And the blue, blue water at its feet!" 
 
CLOVELLY 241 
 
 rhymed Betty, all unconsciously. ' ' I just know 
 the Mediterranean isn't any bluer! " 
 
 '' Isn't it the dearest, oddest little place! " 
 put in Mrs. Pitt, summing up all the children's 
 
 remarks in one. '' I do think it's ." But 
 
 here Betty interrupted her. 
 
 "Look at that little girl!" she fairly 
 screamed. " Don't let her run down that steep 
 street like that ! She mustn't do it ! " 
 
 Mrs. Pitt, after one look at the child, merely 
 laughed and replied, '' Don't worry, Betty; 
 she's used to it. She's probably done it all her 
 life, and she'll never fall. Now, I turn you all 
 loose for two hours. Explore the place to your 
 heart 's content, for it will be long before you see 
 such another. Come to the New Inn (that's it, 
 where the sign is!) at one-thirty for luncheon." 
 
 Enthusiastically the four started off. At 
 first they all picked their way carefully and 
 slowly down over the smooth, slippery stones, 
 but gradually they became more expert in keep- 
 ing their balance, and could go faster. The two 
 boys made straight for the foot of the town to 
 see the harbor and fishing-boats; Barbara and 
 Betty were bent on investigating all the nooks, 
 corners, and tiny shops of the little place; and 
 
242 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Mrs. Pitt contentedly settled herself on the mini- 
 ature piazza of the New Inn, and looked with 
 never-failing interest and delight at the scene 
 before her. 
 
 To explain more in detail, Clovelly is built in 
 what was once a torrent-bed, and the village 
 tumbles down from the top of the cliff to the 
 very edge of Hartland Bay. The droll, Italian- 
 like cottages cling to the hillside, or seem to 
 grow directly out of the gray rock. At first, the 
 street descends rather gradually and straight, 
 but after a short distance, it zigzags first to left 
 and then to right, twists and turns, takes one un- 
 der parts of houses, into private yards, out to 
 look-off points, and then pitches very, very 
 abruptly down to the Eed Lion Inn, which 
 guards the little harbor with its long, curving 
 sea-wall and tiny lighthouse. 
 
 From where Mrs. Pitt sat she had a splendid 
 view up and down the street, which was then 
 crowded, it being the busiest time of the season. 
 Just below her, up against the piazza, sat an 
 artist, bent eagerly forward toward his easel, 
 and absolutely oblivious of the throngs of peo- 
 ple who were noisily passing close by. There 
 were tourists in gay attire, children romping 
 
CLOVELLY 243 
 
 about in their queer shoes with nails on the 
 bottom to prevent slipping, big stalwart men 
 sliding luggage down on sledges, and patient 
 little mules, which struggled up with big trunks 
 fastened to shelf-like saddles over their backs. 
 To this busy scene the bright little dwellings 
 which line the way, add the finishing touch. The 
 roof of one house is on a level with the second- 
 story window of that above it; the vines are 
 luxuriant, climbing sometimes up over the very 
 chimneys, and flower-beds and flower-boxes are 
 everywhere. A holiday, festive air seems uni- 
 versal. 
 
 '^ Where can one see such a scene? " mused 
 Mrs. Pitt. ' ' Not in Italy surely, for there the 
 ' picturesque dirt, ' as they call it, is so much in 
 evidence. For my part, I prefer the exquisite 
 neatness and cleanliness of Clovelly. ' ' 
 
 Lunch at the New Inn tasted very good, — 
 especially as here the young people first made 
 the acquaintance of the much-praised " Devon- 
 shire cream." Served with wild strawberries, 
 or any other fruit, this thick cream is truly deli- 
 cious, and unlike anything else. The meal it- 
 self was partaken of in the Annex, a larger, 
 newer house across the way, but having finished, 
 
244 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 the party returned to the original hostelry. It 
 is the tiniest house imaginable, and the little 
 rooms are so crowded with furniture, the land- 
 lord's collection of fine old china, and knick- 
 knacks of all sorts, that John endangered many 
 valued treasures by his awkward movements. 
 Once, in passing some people in the hall, his el- 
 bow struck a small cabinet of blue china, and 
 there would have been a terrible catastrophe 
 had not Mrs. Pitt arrived upon the scene at the 
 opportune moment. 
 
 " Oh, bother! " exclaimed John, very much 
 irritated, and more ashamed of his clumsiness 
 than he cared to show. " How can a fellow 
 have room to breathe in a bandbox like this! 
 Come along, Philip; I'm going down to talk 
 some more with those sailors." 
 
 The old fishermen who can no longer follow 
 their loved trade sit sunning themselves com- 
 fortably on the doorsteps of their Clovelly 
 homes, gazing dreamily out to sea. When Mrs. 
 Pitt, Barbara, and Betty went to find the 
 boys toward tea-time, they discovered them sit- 
 ting by a group of these old cronies, who were 
 ensconced upon a bench affording a beautiful 
 view of the lower part of the town, the bay, and 
 
CLOVELLY 245 
 
 the cliffs of the rugged coast. The tide had 
 filled the little harbor, and numerous small boats 
 with copper-colored sails bobbed about on the 
 opal waters ; near the Red Lion Inn stood a row 
 of sleepy-looking mules waiting for the start 
 up the street. 
 
 The men had been exchanging fishermen's 
 yams, much to the pleasure of their audience, 
 but when the ladies appeared, they commenced 
 telling ghost-stories or curious bits of folk-lore. 
 One tale especially amused the girls, although 
 John thought he preferred the wild adventures 
 of the sea. 
 
 After looking long out over the bay, the par- 
 ticular old salt who was then entertaining them, 
 removed the pipe from between his teeth, and 
 began the following. Mrs. Pitt took pains to re- 
 member it, and this is how it reads to this very 
 day in her journal : 
 
 ' ' The father of a certain fair young girl had 
 been carried off by smugglers, and kept for ' a 
 year and a day,' — ^until a large sum of money 
 was finally paid for his release. He only lived a 
 short time after his return home, however, and 
 his daughter died soon after, worn out by 
 anxiety about her father. This young lady's 
 
246 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 ghost continually haunts a certain little village 
 in Devon, where some of the fisherfolk were 
 said to have taken part in the kidnaping of her 
 father. Instead of doing anything more violent, 
 the ghpst simply appears on Sunday mornings, 
 just as the dinners are being cooked, and touches 
 the meat with her white, bony hand, thereby ren- 
 dering it unfit to eat. ' ' 
 
 Mrs. Pitt's famous journal, which is often re- 
 ferred to, contains also this story heard that 
 day at Clovelly: 
 
 " In front of a certain farm-house was a 
 large, flat stone, which tradition said was as old 
 as the Flood. Here, at midnight, there always 
 appeared a female figure, clad in a gray cloak 
 and an old-fashioned black bonnet. The ap- 
 parition would remain there until dawn, always 
 knocking, knocking upon the stone. The inhab- 
 itants of the house nearby became so used to 
 ' Nelly the Knocker,' as she was called, that 
 they paid no attention whatever to her, did not 
 fear her in the least, and would even stop to ex- 
 amine her queer garments. Finally, however, 
 two young men of the family decided to solve 
 the mystery, so they blasted the rock one day. 
 To their great surprise, underneath were lying 
 
CLOVELLY 247 
 
 two large urns, packed with gold, which treasure 
 enriched them for the rest of their days. But 
 ' Nelly the Knocker ' came no more." 
 
 In place of repairing to the somewhat stuffy 
 dining-room at the inn, they had their tea just 
 outside one of the most sightly cottages, and 
 were served by a pretty young girl. The china 
 was coarse and the thick slices, cut with a big 
 knife from huge loaves of bread, were by no 
 means daintily served, but it could not have 
 tasted better, and John ate a truly alarming 
 amount of bread and jam. 
 
 At Clovelly, the summer twilights are very 
 long and lovely, and down on the breakwater our 
 friends enjoyed this one to the full. One might 
 look over the blue expanse of bay and see the 
 faint outlines of the coast of Wales, and then 
 turn and gaze at the picturesque harbor and the 
 quaint, hanging village, in the houses of which, 
 lights were slowly beginning to twinkle, one 
 after another. They stayed until it was quite 
 dark, and were even then loath to wend their 
 way up the steep street, and to waste so many 
 hours by going to bed in the " Doll's House," as 
 John persisted in calling the New Inn. 
 
 ' ' Well, ' ' said Betty comfortingly, ' ' it will be 
 
248 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 fun after all, — sleeping in that funny wee inn, 
 where there are only four bedrooms in the 
 whole house. I choose the one with the pink 
 rose peeping in the window ! I saw it this morn- 
 ing. Come on. ' ' 
 
 The next day dawned as fair as one could 
 wish, and at Mrs. Pitt's suggestion a walk along 
 the '' Hobby Drive " was first taken. This 
 charming road was built by a Mr. Hamlin, the 
 owner of the town of Clovelly, who lives at 
 Clovelly Court. The drive starts just at the top 
 of the village, and extends for three miles along 
 the edge of the cliffs. The views are startlingly 
 beautiful ! Through the fresh green of the trees 
 and vines, glimpses of the deep blue sea are to 
 be had, and to add to the vivid coloring, there is 
 the peculiar red rock which belongs to that 
 part of the coast. 
 
 As they were retracing their steps, Mrs. Pitt 
 said with slight hesitation : 
 
 *' I promise not to give you very much his- 
 tory while you are here, but I must tell you just 
 a bit about the relation which all this country 
 bears to Charles Kingsley's great book, ' West- 
 ward Ho! * Have you never read it, John? 
 Fancy ! I '11 get it for you at once ! Well, Bide- 
 
CLOVELLY 249 
 
 ford is the nearest town to Clovelly, and it was 
 from there that Amyas Leigh, Salvation Yeo, 
 and all the rest set out with Sir Francis Drake. 
 By the by, that very sailor, Salvation Yeo, was 
 born in the old Red Lion Inn, at the foot of the 
 Clovelly street. Oh, you'd like him, John, and 
 all his brave adventures ! At Clovelly Court, in 
 the days of the story, lived Will Cary, another of 
 the well-known characters in ' Westward Ho !, ' 
 and in the little parish church very near there, 
 Charles Kingsley's father was rector. Kings- 
 ley himself was at Clovelly a great deal, and 
 probably gained here his knowledge of the seas 
 and those who sail them. One of those old fish- 
 ermen last night (he who claimed to be ninety- 
 eight) told me that he used to know Charles 
 Kingsley well, and I suppose it is possible." 
 
 That afternoon toward tea-time, after another 
 fascinating roam about the town, — ^into its back- 
 yards and blind alleys, and along its pebbly 
 beach, — as well as numerous exciting rides on 
 the backs of the mules, the party gathered on the 
 tiny veranda of the New Inn, crowding it to its 
 utmost capacity. The purpose of this formal 
 meeting was to decide where they should go the 
 following morning, as they were then leaving 
 
250 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Clovelly. Mrs. Pitt had promised them a week 
 more of play in Devonshire before their trip to 
 Canterbury, and she advised visits to Bideford, 
 Minehead, Porlock, Lynton, Lynmonth, and 
 finally Torquay. As the young people had no 
 ideas of their own upon the subject and as they 
 had vast confidence in anything Mrs. Pitt pro- 
 posed, this plan was at once adopted. 
 
 '' These places are all by the sea," Mrs. Pitt 
 continued, " and I'm quite sure you'll like them. 
 Torquay is just a watering-place, with big ho- 
 tels, terraces, and gardens, but oh ! it is so lovely, 
 and nearby is the duckiest little village of Cock- 
 ington! You'll never leave the thatched cot- 
 tages there, Betty! Lynmouth is very fine, 
 with its combination of mountain and seaside 
 views, and its moors. Close by is the Doone 
 Valley, which figures so prominently in the story 
 of ' Lorna Doone,' and we'll visit that. It will 
 all be beautiful — beautiful as only England and 
 Devonshire can be — but you'll find nothing at 
 all like this strange little Clovelly, so enjoy it 
 while you may ! ' ' 
 
"You'll find nothing at all like this stkange little 
 Clovelly." — Page 250. 
 
CHAPTER SEVENTEEN 
 
 EOCHESTEK AND CANTERBUEY 
 
 As soon as the familiar chugging of the motor 
 was heard at the front door in Cavendish 
 Square, John hurried out. Just as he was ex- 
 amining all the chauffeur's arrangements for 
 the trip, and looking with approval over the 
 entire automobile, the whir of the engine sud- 
 denly gasped, struggled to catch its breath, and 
 then ceased altogether. The chauffeur, per- 
 fectly unconcerned, swung himself off from his 
 seat and sauntered around to ' ' crank her up, ' ' 
 but his expression of assurance soon changed, 
 for the motor refused to start. 
 
 John's face was pitiful to see. '' Oh, 
 bother ! " he cried, running to where the chauf- 
 feur stood, in front of the hood. ' ' Why has it 
 got to go and spoil it all like that! It's mean, I 
 say! Can't you fix her? What's wrong? " 
 
 Off came the chauffeur 's nicely-brushed coat, 
 his clean hands handled oily tools, and a big 
 
 251 
 
252 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 streak of grease soonappeareduponMs trousers. 
 Great was his humiliation ! After about fifteen 
 minutes of disagreeable work, all was well, 
 however, — the engine started, and the sound was 
 again smooth and steady. John's expression 
 was radiant, and he came to help the ladies in, 
 while the forlorn chauffeur retired to make him- 
 self presentable, 
 
 '' Now, we're off for Canterbury! " John an- 
 nounced triumphantly, as they at last glided 
 around a corner into Piccadilly. 
 
 Slowly and carefully they wended their way 
 down to London Bridge, crossed, and stopped 
 for a moment before the site of the old Tabard 
 Inn. 
 
 "I'm going to take you to Canterbury by the 
 very road which Chaucer's pilgrims in all prob- 
 ability traveled, and I thought that to make the 
 illusion as perfect as possible, we really should 
 halt here in Southwark. This is where the pil- 
 grims met, you know, and from here they set out 
 in the lovely month of April : the ' verray per- 
 fight, gentil knight,' his son, the gay young 
 squire, the stout Wife of Bath, the dainty pri- 
 oress, the pale clerk (or scholar), the merchant 
 with his fine beaver hat, the parson, the plow- 
 
ROCHESTER AND CANTERBURY 253 
 
 man, the pardonner, the sunmioner, the cook, 
 and all the rest ! They traveled on horseback, 
 you remember, and to beguile the tedious hours 
 when they advanced slowly along the dusty 
 road, they took turns in telling the stories which 
 Chaucer gives us in the wonderful ' Canter- 
 bury Tales.' " 
 
 " I never did know just why they went," 
 Betty ventured, in some confusion lest they 
 should laugh at her. 
 
 " Neither did I! " John promptly seconded. 
 " Please tell us, Mrs. Pitt." 
 
 ' ' Dear me, yes ! I certainly will, for you 
 must surely understand that! " After pausing 
 a moment in order to think how best to make 
 her meaning clear, Mrs. Pitt went on in her 
 pleasant voice. '^ You see, pilgrimages were al- 
 ways made to some especial shrine ! We '11 take 
 Becket's for an example. After his terrible 
 murder, Becket was immediately canonized 
 (that is, made a saint), and for many years a 
 very celebrated shrine to him existed at Canter- 
 bury Cathedral. In those days, sumptuous vel- 
 vets and abundant jewels adorned the shrines, 
 and if a person journeyed to one, it meant that 
 his sins were all atoned for. It was a very easy 
 
254 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 thing, you see. If a man had committed a 
 wrong, all he had to do was to go to some shrine, 
 say certain prayers there, and he thought him- 
 self forgiven. Such trips cost men practically 
 nothing, for pilgrims might usually be freely 
 eared for at the monasteries along the route; a 
 man was quite sure of good company ; and alto- 
 gether, it was very pleasant to see the world in 
 this way. The numerous terrible dangers to be 
 met with only added the spice of excitement to 
 many. In short, such numbers of poor men 
 started off on these religious pilgrimages, leav- 
 ing their families uncared for, that the clergy 
 finally were forced to interfere. Laws were 
 then made which compelled a man to procure a 
 license for the privilege of going to a shrine, and 
 these permits were not granted to all. You un- 
 derstand then, that toward noted shrines such as 
 St. Thomas a Becket's, pilgrims singly and in 
 companies were always flocking, and among 
 these was the little group which Chaucer has 
 made so familiar and real to us all. ' ' 
 
 " Here's Deptford," announced John by and 
 by, seeing the name upon some sign. '' What 
 went on here? " 
 
 " What makes you think anything * went on 
 
ROCHESTER AND CANTERBURY 255 
 
 liere '! " Mrs. Pitt exclaimed. '' Fancy! What 
 a curious boy ! " 
 
 " Oh] " John burst out. " That's easy 
 enough! I haven't seen more than about two 
 or three places in all this country where some 
 fellow didn't do something, or some important 
 thing go on. ' ' 
 
 Mrs. Pitt pushed up her veil, removed her 
 glasses, and wiped the tears of laughter from 
 her eyes. '^ I think you are about right, John. 
 And something did happen here in Deptford ; in 
 fact, there were several things. First, I'll tell 
 you that it was here that Queen Elizabeth came 
 in 1581 and visited the ship in which Drake had 
 been around the world. The Queen dined on 
 board the vessel and knighted Drake while 
 there. Event number two was the death of 
 Christopher Marlowe, one of the greatest of 
 all England's dramatists. Marlowe was only 
 thirty years old when he was killed in a vulgar 
 fight in a tavern. Fancy! Poor Anne of 
 Cleves, after the early divorce from her royal 
 husband, lived near Deptford, at Place House. 
 "Writers say that she used often to go up to Lon- 
 don, and visit the Court, just as though she had 
 not been (for a few short days, to be sure) the 
 
256 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 ' first lady of the land,' as you Americans say. 
 Poor Anne ! She always seemed a pitiful char- 
 acter to my mind. She couldn't help it if Henry 
 Vin didn't find her good to look upon! " 
 
 Beyond Deptford, as they were smoothly glid- 
 ing along, all at once there came a loud report. 
 
 * ' Goodness ! ' ' cried John. * ' What in the 
 world was that ! ' ' Then he shouted with laugh- 
 ter at the frightened expression on Betty's face. 
 
 ' '■ Dearie me ! It must be a ' blow-out ' ! Is 
 that the trouble, Jo ? Yes ? Well, come, girls ; 
 we may as well step out." There was forced 
 resignation in Mrs. Pitt's voice; she was trying 
 not to mind the delay. 
 
 For forty minutes she and the girls sat by 
 the roadside and watched the chauffeur and the 
 two boys at work on the tire. It seemed as 
 though every part of this operation took longer 
 than usual. The tools seemed never so easily 
 mislaid; it surely was a longer task than ever 
 to inflate the tube, and then to fit on the wheel- 
 rim. Finally, however, the three rose, grimy 
 and dusty, but triumphant, and ready to set 
 forth once again. 
 
 The accident came just at the edge of Black- 
 heath, amid very historic surroundings. Some 
 
ROCHESTER AND CANTERBURY 257 
 
 one has called Blackheath the Rotten Row of the 
 olden days, for there royalty and fashionable 
 people of the town went to ride and disport 
 themselves, just as they now do in Hyde Park; 
 and there important guests on the way to Lon- 
 don, were wont to be met with much ceremony 
 by the Mayor and certain great citizens. After 
 the battle of Agincourt, the victor, Henry V, 
 when retumuig to London, was given a mag- 
 nificent reception at Blackheath, and many were 
 the speeches of praise which had been prepared. 
 The great soldier cut them all short, however, 
 insisting that the honor be given God. At 
 Blackheath, his descendant, Henry VIII, first 
 saw Anne of Cleves (officially, that is), and 
 straightway decided to divorce her. But per- 
 haps the most joyful scene of all those at Black- 
 heath, took place on the May morning when 
 Charles II came into his own, and all England 
 was glad, after the dark days of the Common- 
 wealth and the iron rule of the sober Puritans. 
 '' This," declared Mrs. Pitt a little later, " is 
 
 * Shooter's Hill.' That should bear a familiar 
 sound. How many have ever read Dickens's 
 
 * Tale of Two Cities '? You have, I know, 
 Philip. Well, in the second chapter, the stage 
 
258 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 which carried Mr. Jarvis Lorry on his way, is 
 described as slowly mounting this very hill, 
 while most of its passengers toil along the wet, 
 snowy road, by its side. Do you remember, 
 Betty? You must try to think over all of 
 Dickens's works which you have ever read, for 
 we are coming to a district which that author 
 knew well and often put into his novels. ' ' 
 
 Sure enough, they almost felt as though they 
 had stepped into the world of Dickens 's stories, 
 for so many of the places mentioned therein 
 they were able to find. Slowly they drove 
 through Eochester's streets, stopping when 
 they came to any spot of especial interest. 
 
 '' Here's the old Bull Inn," said Mrs. Pitt, 
 pointing it out as she spoke. '' It is supposed 
 that there are no less than twenty-five inns 
 named in Dickens's ' Pickwick Papers ' alone. 
 This is one of them, for Room Number Seven- 
 teen was Mr. Pickwick's bedroom, and there is 
 also Winkle's, which was ' inside of Mr. Tup- 
 man's.' Come, shall we go in? " 
 
 The landlord of the Bull has most carefully 
 preserved and cared for all which is of even the 
 slightest interest in connection with Dickens or 
 his books. He most kindly took Mrs. Pitt and 
 
ROCHESTER AND CANTERBURY 259 
 
 her party all about the old house, showing them 
 everything, — ^including the room where the fa- 
 mous ball in '' Pickwick Papers " was held. 
 
 Leaving the Bull, they noted the Crown Inn, 
 on the site of the one where Henry VIII went 
 privately to take a look at Anne of Cleves, and 
 the old White Hart, built in Richard II 's reign, 
 which once sheltered Samuel Pepys. In 
 Restoration House (built in 1587) Charles II 
 stayed after his landing at Dover. 
 
 '' ' Dickens wrote thus about Restoration 
 House in " Great Expectations," ' " Betty read 
 from the guidebook. " ' I had stopped to look 
 at the house as I passed, and its seared red brick 
 walls, blocked windows and strong green ivy 
 clasping even the stacks of chimneys with its 
 twigs and tendrils, as if with sinewy arms, made 
 up a rich and attractive mystery. ' ' ' 
 
 '' Doesn't that describe it exactly? "exclaimed 
 Mrs. Pitt, with enthusiasm. " That house al- 
 ways fascinated me, too. When Dickens last 
 visited Rochester, it is said that he was seen 
 gazing long at this old place, and some have 
 thought that the result of those reflections would 
 have appeared in the next chapter of ' Edwin 
 Drood, ' which novel, as you know, he never fin- 
 
26o JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 ished. Now, we'll drive out to take a look at 
 Gad's Hill. Luckily, this is Wednesday, so we 
 will be admitted." 
 
 After making inquiries, Mrs. Pitt learned that 
 the owner of Gad's Hill throws it open only 
 on the afternoon of each Wednesday; so they 
 took their luncheon first, and then motored the 
 mile and a half to Dickens 's home. 
 
 Gad's Hill is charming! Dickens was de- 
 voted to this square, vine-covered house, where 
 he resided from 1856 to the time of his death, in 
 1870. The story goes that when he was a small 
 boy the place had a great attraction for him, and 
 that one day his father, wishing to spur him on 
 in a way peculiar to parents, reminded him that 
 if he worked hard and persevered until he was a 
 grown man, he might own that very estate, or 
 one like it. 
 
 As they left the house, Mrs. Pitt said, " This 
 hill is the spot where took place the robbery of 
 the travelers in Shakespeare's ^ Henry IV.' 
 The inn just opposite Gad's Hill is the 
 Falstaff Inn, probably built about Queen 
 Anne's time. It used to have an old sign with 
 pictures of Falstaff and the ' Merry Wives of 
 Windsor ' upon it. I read that in the olden 
 
ROCHESTER AND CANTERBURY 261 
 
 days ninety coaclies daily stopped here. 
 Fancy! " 
 
 " Well," observed Betty, " I shall certainly 
 enjoy reading Dickens better than ever, when I 
 get home, for now I've seen his study where he 
 wrote. It makes things so much more real 
 somehow, doesn't it, Mrs. Pitt? " 
 
 Having visited the cathedral and the old 
 castle, they now left Rochester, and found that 
 the run to Canterbury was rather longer than 
 they had realized. 
 
 '' But really, you know," Mrs. Pitt had inter- 
 vened, " Rochester is just about halfway be- 
 tween the two, London and Canterbury, I would 
 say. And we did stop quite a bit to see the 
 sights connected with Dickens." 
 
 At last, however, about six in the afternoon, 
 they came in sight of Canterbury, its great 
 cathedral towering over all, — its timbered 
 houses, old city-gate, and narrow, picturesque 
 streets. As usual, the young people who never 
 seemed to need a rest, desired to start sight- 
 seeing at once, but unfortunately a sudden thun- 
 der-shower came up to prevent. 
 
 '' Oh, well, it will stop soon," Betty assured 
 them. *' It always does in England." 
 
262 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 This time, the weather was not so kind, how- 
 ever. The rain continued persistently, and the 
 party was forced to remain at the inn the entire 
 evening. 
 
 Sunshine, even though it be sometimes a bit 
 dim and watery, is never long absent during an 
 English summer, so the morning dawned bright 
 and clear. Just as they set forth from the hotel, 
 Betty felt in her coat pocket and found that her 
 precious red notebook, in which she inscribed all 
 interesting facts and discoveries, was missing. 
 
 Philip promptly came to the rescue, saying: 
 ' ' I saw you put it behind you on the seat of the 
 motor, yesterday, and it's probably there still. 
 I '11 go to the garage and see. ' ' 
 
 Betty gave Philip a grateful little smile, but 
 insisted upon accompanying him on his search. 
 They came upon the treasure just where it had 
 been left, and soon rejoined the rest of the party 
 in the cathedral close, where John was in the 
 midst of taking some photographs. 
 
 The first near view which they had of Can- 
 terbury Cathedral was in approaching it from 
 under old Christchurch G-ateway. In spite of 
 its great age, the cathedral, in contrast with the 
 much blackened gate-way, appears surprisingly 
 
ROCHESTER AND CANTERBURY 26 
 
 J 
 
 white and fair. The exterior is very beautiful ; 
 the two towers are most majestic, and beyond, 
 one sees the graceful Bell Tower, rising from 
 the point where the transepts cross. In olden 
 days, a gilded angel stood on the very top of 
 the Bell Tower, and served as a beacon to 
 the many pilgrims traveling toward Becket's 
 shrine. 
 
 Walking about inside the cathedral, they saw, 
 behind the altar, the position of the once famous 
 shrine. All that now remain to remind one that 
 this ever existed are the pavement and steps, 
 deeply worn by the feet of many generations of 
 devout pilgrims. 
 
 ' ' I told you something of the splendor of this 
 shrine," Mrs. Pitt suggested to them. " It was 
 said that after his visit to it, Erasmus (the 
 Dutch scholar and friend of Sir Thomas More, 
 you know) in describing it, told how ' gold was 
 the meanest (poorest) thing to be seen.' See, 
 here is the tomb of Henry IV, the only king 
 who is buried here, and there's the monument to 
 the Black Prince. Above hang his gauntlets, 
 helmet, coat, and shield. Do you see them, 
 John? " 
 
 The northwest transept, so say all guidebooks 
 
264 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 and vergers (and they certainly ouglit to be 
 truthful), was the scene of the murder of the 
 Archbishop a Becket. There is even a stone in 
 the floor which marks the precise spot ; but, con- 
 trary to her usual habit, Mrs. Pitt absolutely 
 pointed out that all this is false. 
 
 ''I'm sorry, children," she said, '' but I must 
 contradict this. Becket was killed at five o 'clock 
 on a dreary December afternoon of 1170. Four 
 years later, the cathedral was entirely destroyed 
 by fire. Therefore, it is not possible that they 
 can show visitors the exact spot where the 
 tragedy took place. William of Sens came over 
 from France, and in 1184, finished the building 
 which we now see." 
 
 " This nave," she continued, as they again 
 entered it, '' is one of the longest in England, 
 and the choir is several feet higher. Do you 
 notice? It is an unusual feature. Also, the fact 
 that the walls bend very gradually inward as 
 they near the east end of the choir, is worthy of 
 note. Here, as at St. Paul's and a number of 
 other cathedrals, business was carried on, even 
 during services, and pack-horses and mules went 
 trailing through. It's curious to think of, isn't 
 it?" 
 
ROCHESTER AND CANTERBURY 265 
 
 Canterbury's cloisters are wonderfully an- 
 cient. Blackened as they are by the centuries, 
 and their still exquisite carvings broken, yet 
 here, more than in the edifice itself, can 
 one imagine the scene of Becket's terrible 
 death. 
 
 *' The residence of the Archbishop stood 
 alongside the church," Mrs. Pitt proceeded, 
 ' ' and here the murderers came unarmed, upon 
 their arrival in the town, to interview him. 
 Becket was unmoved by their threats, so they 
 left him to go and arm themselves. The en- 
 treaties of the monks that their master should 
 seek safety in the cathedral would have been 
 of no avail had not the hour for evening service 
 arrived. Can't you almost think how dark and 
 cold these stones must have seemed on that win- 
 ter afternoon, when Becket marched along with 
 majestic deliberateness through these very clois- 
 ters, in by that little door, and up to the altar. 
 A feeling of dread and terror was everywhere. 
 Most of the monks had fled to places of hiding, 
 and the Archbishop found himself alone with 
 his three or four faithful friends, whom he com- 
 manded to unbolt the heavy church doors, which, 
 in a panic, they had barred. No sooner had the 
 
266 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 armed men rushed in than the challenge came 
 from Reginald Fitznrse, as Tennyson gives us 
 the scene: 
 
 ' Where is the Archbishop, Thomas Becket? ' 
 
 and Becket's brave answer: 
 
 ' Here. 
 No traitor to the King, but Priest of God, 
 Primate of England. I am he ye seek. 
 What would ye have of me?' 
 
 They responded, ' Your life ! ' and there im- 
 mediately followed the horrible death. ' ' 
 
 Mrs. Pitt drew a long breath and sighed. 
 
 ' ' Such were the deeds of those unenlightened 
 days. These fierce Norman knights, wishing to 
 gain favor in the eyes of the King, and hearing 
 him say in a moment of anger, that he wished 
 himself rid of the troublesome Archbishop, 
 they at once proceeded to Canterbury and killed 
 him. It was all the outcome of the continual 
 strife and struggle for power, between the 
 Church and the State. ' ' 
 
 ^' What did they do to those three Nor- 
 mans? " demanded John indignantly. 
 
 '' Nothing. I believe they went free. But 
 
ROCHESTER AND CANTERBURY 267 
 
 Henry II himself tried to atone for the deed in 
 doing penance by walking barefooted to Canter- 
 bury and Becket's shrine. Come, let's go out- 
 side now. ' ' 
 
 They then wandered about the precincts of 
 the cathedral, pausing by some lovely, ruined 
 arches which tell of an ancient monastery. 
 Everywhere stretch smooth lawns, with grand 
 old trees, and here and there the houses of those 
 connected with the church. Also, very close by 
 stands the King's School, which was founded by 
 Archbishop Theodore in the seventh century, 
 ' for the study of Greek,' and later refounded 
 by Henry VIII. Here that famous Canter- 
 bury boy, Christopher Marlowe, was edu- 
 cated. The school is well worth a visit, if 
 only to see the beautiful outside Norman 
 stairway. 
 
 Mrs. Pitt next led the way down Mercery 
 Lane, at the corner of which stood The Chequers 
 of Hope, the inn where Chaucer's pilgrims 
 put up. 
 
 ' ' You remember the old gate by which we en- 
 tered the town yesterday," said Mrs. Pitt. 
 ' * "Well, under that same arch came the pilgrims 
 as they approached from London. Although 
 
268 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 the city-wall then boasted twenty-one towers and 
 six gates, the West Gate is the only remaining 
 bit. Here, at the inn which stood conveniently 
 near the cathedral, the pilgrims stayed, and in 
 Mercery Lane they bought their souvenirs, — 
 probably rosaries or phials of Holy Water. At 
 the further end of the Lane stood the ancient 
 rush-market. Eushes were then in great de- 
 mand, you recollect, for people used them to 
 strew over their floors." 
 
 One might stay on indefinitely in Canterbury, 
 and still not discover all its treasures and inter- 
 esting nooks and corners. The streets are nar- 
 row, crooked, and contain many very old houses. 
 There is at Canterbury a castle; one may see 
 the ruins of St. John's Hospital, and of St. 
 Sepulchre's Nunnery, where Elizabeth Barton, 
 the " Holy Maid of Kent,", once lived; the old 
 gate of St. Augustine's Monastery still stands, 
 though it is now restored; by exploring, traces 
 of the city- wall may be found, and the weavers ' 
 houses which hang over the little river offer a 
 delightful view. Interest is endless in Canter- 
 bury. But as it is impossible to see it all, espe- 
 cially in limited time, the visitor usually seeks 
 out the best known and most famous places ; and 
 
ROCHESTER AND CANTERBURY 269 
 
 surely, after the great cathedral itself, ranks St. 
 Martin's Church. 
 
 A little way out of the town, and up against a 
 sunny hillside, is this tiny " Mother Church of 
 England." Imbedded in the rough stone of 
 the square, Norman tower are the huge stems 
 of giant vines. Altogether, a more primitive, 
 ancient appearing building cannot well be 
 imagined. 
 
 " Well," remarked Betty impressively, '' this 
 is the very oldest place we've been in yet. 
 It makes me feel as Stonehenge did, some- 
 how. ' ' 
 
 " Yes, that's true," assented Mrs. Pitt. 
 ' ' The two places do give you similar sensations. 
 It's simply that you feel the age. I've always 
 thought that if I were suddenly blindfolded, car- 
 ried away, and set down in St. Martin's Church 
 at Canterbury, that I should know where I was 
 just from the atmosphere, which is so heavy 
 with the weight of the years." 
 
 It is claimed for St. Martin's that it is the 
 most ancient church in all England, a land 
 filled with ancient churches. It is in the vicinity 
 of sixteen hundred years old, for Bede states 
 that it was built while the Eomans were still in 
 
270 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 possession, and certain it is that numerous Ko- 
 man bricks may be seen to this day in the outer 
 wall. The church was perhaps erected for the 
 use of Queen Bertha, whose husband, Ethelbert, 
 King of Kent, was also converted to Christian- 
 ity, and baptized here. After the arrival of St. 
 Augustine, it is believed that he and his follow- 
 ers came here to worship. Inside, the little 
 church is a curious conglomeration of different 
 styles of architecture; here a Eoman doorway, 
 there a Norman, and here an ancient Saxon 
 arch. Some of the relics in the church are the 
 Saxon font, built of twenty-two separate stones, 
 a tomb which has been called that of Queen 
 Bertha, and two Elizabethan brasses. The 
 party found a most excellent and intelligent 
 guide, a woman, who showed them the vessel 
 which held the Holy Oil (a very valuable thing), 
 and the " leper's squint," a slit in the wall to 
 which the unfortunate sick men were allowed 
 to come and listen to the service. 
 
 " That's something like the ' nun's squint ' 
 at St. Helen's Church in the city," observed 
 Barbara. 
 
 On the way back to their hotel, John and 
 Philip strayed into the old Guildhall which con- 
 
ROCHESTER AND CANTERBURY 271 
 
 tains some portraits, which failed to impress the 
 boys, however. 
 
 '' S'pose they were old Mayors or some such 
 fellows, ' ' said John, when questioned as to what 
 he saw. " Couldn't bear 'em, with their bright 
 velvet clothes and high ruffs. I'm glad I didn't 
 live tlien ! Excuse me from ruffs ! " 
 
 " If the important men of the town wore such 
 gay and frivolous attire, they had to pay for it 
 surely," Mrs. Pitt added. '' Last night I was 
 reading that in the records of Canterbury for 
 the year 1556, the Mayor was required to pro- 
 vide for his wife every year, before Christmas, 
 a scarlet gown and a bonnet of velvet. That 
 was enforced by law! Fancy! The women 
 may have had a hand in that, for they very 
 naturally wanted to make sure not to be out- 
 done by the men in the point of fine clothes." 
 
 As the automobile again passed under the 
 West Gate, on its way back to London, Betty 
 turned to Mrs. Pitt, and said in her quiet little 
 way: 
 
 *' I think you were right in what you said 
 when we were at Salisbury. I think, too, that's 
 the most beautiful of all the cathedrals I've seen. 
 But Canterbury, both the town and church, is 
 
272 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 very, very interesting. I like the stories about 
 Becket and the pilgrims, too. I'd like to come 
 again some day. Please take hold of my hand, 
 John; I want to stand up a minute and watch 
 that dear Bell Tower as long as I can." 
 
CHAPTER EIGHTEEN 
 
 GOOD-BY TO LONDON 
 
 *' A WERE for you, Master John." 
 
 The butler's interruption while the family 
 was at breakfast one August morning, caused a 
 sudden hush of expectancy. 
 
 * * A telegram for me ! ' ' replied John, trying 
 to assume suiBficient dignity for the momentous 
 occasion, — the arrival of the first message he 
 had ever received. " Why, what can it bef " 
 
 ** Do open it, John. It must be a cable," 
 Betty pleaded, fearing something might be 
 wrong at home. 
 
 *' Yes, hurry, dear," put in Mrs. Pitt. 
 
 Just the second that the contents were re- 
 vealed, a great shout of joy went up, and John 
 and Betty fairly jumped up and down in their 
 excitement. 
 
 ** Father and mother coming! " John cried. 
 * ' On the way now ! Taking us to Switzerland ! 
 It's great! " 
 
 273 
 
274 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Betty's radiant face showed what delight the 
 prospect of seeing her father and mother gave 
 her. Glancing at Mrs. Pitt almost at once, how- 
 ever, she hastened to say: 
 
 " We're both sorry to go away from you all, 
 though, and I hope they'll let us come back. 
 We've had such a good time in England ! Don't 
 you think we can go on with our trip here after 
 Switzerland? " 
 
 *' I really can't tell, dear, for this is all so 
 unexpected. I don't know what your father's 
 plans may be, but I hope he will bring you back 
 to me. I'd be very sorry if it were all at an end ! 
 But to think I shall so soon see your father! " 
 Mrs. Pitt sat staring into the grate, and seemed 
 to be lost in her thoughts. 
 
 After the general commotion caused by the 
 news had somewhat subsided, and they had all 
 adjusted themselves to the new plans, Mrs. Pitt 
 decided to spend the remaining week in the city, 
 as she had still so much there to show John and 
 Betty. The weather being quite cool and com- 
 fortable, they could easily go about. 
 
 It happened that two events of those busy 
 days made an everlasting impression on the 
 minds of both John and Betty. First, there 
 
GOOD-BY TO LONDON 275 
 
 was their glimpse of the King and Queen; and 
 then, there was the fire. 
 
 As they emerged at about noon one day from 
 the National Gallery, where Mrs. Pitt had been 
 showing them some of the best pictures, Philip 
 heard some one on the steps of the building say 
 that the King and Queen had come to town to be 
 present at the unveiling of a statue. They were 
 soon to pass through St, James Park on their 
 way from Whitehall, it was understood, and our 
 friends at once hastened in that direction. For 
 some time they waited with the crowd, and it 
 was not exactly agreeable, for the day was damp 
 and foggy, and a fine rain had set in. All the 
 while, John was getting more and more aroused, 
 and when he finally saw a small company of the 
 Horse Guards, he so forgot himself as to 
 shout : 
 
 ' ' Hurrah ! Here they come ! " 
 
 Because of the rain, the Guards, wearing their 
 blue capes lined with scarlet, were rather less 
 picturesque than usual, but the black horses 
 were as fine as ever. 
 
 a They step as if they were proud of going 
 along with the King and Queen, ' ' Betty said in 
 a loud whisper to Barbara. 
 
276 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Between two small squadrons of the Guards 
 came a modest closed carriage in which Their 
 Majesties rode. Fortunately for the young vis- 
 itors, they both kept bending forward and bow- 
 ing very graciously from the windows, so that 
 they could be distinctly seen. The sober British 
 crowd was characteristically well-behaved. No 
 demonstration of any sort was given the Eoy- 
 alties, except that the men removed their hats. 
 Swiftly the carriage rolled up the wide avenue 
 toward Buckingham Palace. 
 
 ' ' Humph ! They don 't make much fuss about 
 it, do they? " was all John said, while Betty was 
 especially impressed by how very much the King 
 and Queen resembled their photographs. 
 
 The following morning an interesting trip to 
 Smithfield was taken. Going by the " Tube," 
 the ride seemed a short one, and they soon found 
 themselves at Smithfield Market. 
 
 ' ' Have you ever seen Faneuil Hall Market in 
 Boston? " demanded Mrs. Pitt laughingly, 
 whereupon John and Betty, the two Bostonians, 
 were rather ashamed to admit that they had not. 
 
 ** Somehow we never have time at home," 
 was Betty's remark. " And I think perhaps 
 we never really wanted to very much, either." 
 
GOOD-BY TO LONDON 277 
 
 *' Well, you wouldn't understand why, then, 
 but it always reminded me of this great Smith- 
 field Market," went on Mrs. Pitt and then added 
 a bit boastfully, " I've been to Faneuil Hall sev- 
 eral times." 
 
 "What they saw was a large, lofty building, 
 with a roof of glass and iron, equipped as a 
 most thoroughly up-to-date meat-market. A 
 street runs directly through the center, and from 
 this, one can get a splendid idea of both halves. 
 
 ' ' This great barren square of Smithfield was 
 the place where they had the tournaments in the 
 olden days, and because of that, the name was 
 probably once ' Smooth-field.' Edward III held 
 a brilliant tournament here, and also Eichard 
 n, who invited many foreign guests to be pres- 
 ent for that important event. The processions 
 which preceded, as well as the tournaments 
 themselves, were most elaborate. One old 
 writer fairly dazzles us by his description of 
 ' sixty horses in rich trappings, each mounted 
 by an esquire of honor, — and sixty ladies of 
 rank, dressed in the richest elegance of the day 
 following on their palfreys, each leading by a 
 silver chain a knight completely armed for tilt- 
 ing. Minstrels and trumpets accompanied them 
 
278 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 to SmitMeld amidst the shouting population: 
 there the Queen and her fair train received 
 them.' Then this same author tells at much 
 length of the commencing of the tournament, 
 and says ' they tilted each other until dark. 
 They all then adjourned to a sumptuous ban- 
 quet, and dancing consumed the night.' For 
 several days and nights this same performance 
 was repeated. That gives you a slight idea of 
 the aspect Smithfield bore in the days when it 
 was far outside the limits of the ' City.' " 
 
 After pausing a few minutes in her talk, while 
 they walked about the square, Mrs. Pitt pro- 
 ceeded : 
 
 ^' In 1381, after the peasant uprising, the 
 leader, Wat Tyler, was killed here. And then, 
 in the reigns of ' Bloody Mary ' and of Eliza- 
 beth, this was the place of public execution. 
 Way back in 1305, the patriot William Wallace 
 was hanged here, and after him came a long 
 line of sufferers, — among them Anne Askew, 
 Eogers, Bradford, and Philpot, who were per- 
 secuted because of their adherence to the 
 Protestant Eeligion. After that terrible period, 
 Smithfield was for many years the only cattle- 
 market in London ; and here was held Bartholo- 
 
GOOD-BY TO LONDON 279 
 
 mew Fair, also. Don't you agree that this 
 square has had about as varied a history as is 
 very well possible? " 
 
 The church of St. Bartholomew the Great, one 
 of the oldest and most interesting in London, is 
 reached from Smithfield by an inconspicuous 
 arch, which leads to a narrow walk close beside 
 brick walls. At the further end is the fagade 
 of the church, which boasts of having been 
 erected in 1123, by Eahere, who also founded the 
 neighboring Hospital of St. Bartholomew. 
 
 Once inside the doorway, the visiter feels as 
 though he had actually stepped back many cen- 
 turies, for, as Baedeker says, " the existing 
 church, consisting merely of the choir, the cross- 
 ing, and one bay of the nave of the original 
 Priory Church, is mainly pure Norman work, as 
 left by Eahere." Here again, the visitor en- 
 counters that strange atmosphere which belongs 
 to the place pervaded by great age. 
 
 " You see," explained Mrs. Pitt, " the church 
 which we see is only a very small part of the 
 original edifice as Eahere built it. The en- 
 trance from Smithfield was probably the door 
 to the nave, which was where the grave-yard 
 now stands. It's curious, isn't it, how the cen- 
 
28o JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 turies alter things! Now, step over here, out 
 of the way of the door, and let me tell you a bit 
 about this old church and its founder. This 
 Eahere was the King's jester, who came to see 
 the error of his ways, grew very religious, and 
 went on a pilgrimage. While on his journey 
 back, he became seriously ill, and turned to St. 
 Bartholomew for healing, promising to build a 
 hospital for poor men if his petition were 
 granted. He was cured, and on his return to 
 London, he built the hospital and also this 
 church, in which he is himself buried." 
 
 They were all delighted with this story, and 
 went immediately to find Eahere 's tomb, of 
 which the ancient effigy is covered by a fine can- 
 opy of much later date. One other tomb is that 
 of Sir Walter Mildmay, who was Chancellor of 
 the Exchequer to Queen Elizabeth, and founder 
 of Emmanuel College, Oxford. John discovered 
 the following quaint epitaph, which greatly 
 amused the entire party: 
 
 " Shee first deceased, Hee for a little Tryd, 
 To live without her, likd it not, and dyd." 
 
 This adorns the tomb of John and Margaret 
 Whiting, in the north transept. 
 
GOOD-BY TO LONDON 281 
 
 Some time was passed in this wonderful 
 church, — climbing the tiny, spiral stairs up to 
 the clerestory, and going cautiously along the 
 bit of a walk at this dizzy height above the 
 floor of the church. 
 
 It needs time and much study to appreciate 
 this sad old church, which, in spite of its broken 
 pieces of marble, and ruined splendor and per- 
 fection of form, still bravely stands, — a lonely 
 and pathetic relic of its grand past. A young 
 person can scarcely understand it at all ; it needs 
 a grown man or woman whose experience en- 
 ables him to read in the crumbling pillars and 
 walls, stories of the times when England was 
 young, the Church was the great glory and 
 power, and there still lived men who were * ' fair 
 and fortunate. ' ' 
 
 In the vicinity of Smithfield are a number of 
 quaint nooks and corners of old London. Many 
 consider that the very best idea of the ancient 
 city may now be had in Cloth Fair and Bartholo- 
 mew Close, both of which are in this neighbor- 
 hood. Here are still standing genuine Six- 
 teenth Century houses amid much darkness and 
 dirt. 
 
 " Here in Bartholomew Close," stated Mrs. 
 
282 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Pitt, '' Benjamin Franklin learned his trade of 
 printing, and Wasliington Irving, John Milton, 
 and the painter Hogarth, all lived." 
 
 From Smithfield they hastily betook them- 
 selves, by means of hansoms, to Crosby Hall, 
 there to have luncheon. Mrs. Pitt laughed 
 heartily when John said how glad he was to be 
 able to eat amid ancient surroundings. He de- 
 clared that he had been spending the entire 
 morning so very far back in the Middle Ages, 
 that it would have been too great a shock had 
 he been taken immediately to a vulgar, modern 
 restaurant. 
 
 When they had finished their luncheon and 
 were waiting on a street corner for the arrival 
 of a certain bus, suddenly a thrill of excitement 
 went through the crowd, all traffic was quickly 
 drawn up at the sides of the street where it 
 halted, and a weird cry of ' ' Hi-yi-yi-yi-yi ' ' was 
 heard in the distance. 
 
 " It's the fire-brigade," cried Philip, where- 
 upon he and John were tense with antici- 
 pation. 
 
 Down the cleared street came the galloping 
 horses with the fire-engines, the men clinging 
 to them wearing dark-blue uniforms with red 
 
GOOD-BY TO LONDON 283 
 
 bindings, big brass helmets, wMch gleamed in 
 the sunshine, and hatchets in their belts. 
 
 It happened that the fire was very near where 
 our friends were standing, so at the eager solici- 
 tations of the two boys, Mrs. Pitt consented to 
 follow on and watch operations. 
 
 ' ' So it really is a fire this time, ' ' she said to 
 Betty, as they hurried along. ' ' We have very, 
 very few in London, and when the brigade is 
 out, it is generally only for exercise or practice. 
 But, it will interest you and John to see how we 
 fight a fire, and to observe whether the methods 
 differ from yours. ' ' 
 
 A building on Bishopsgate Street was really 
 very much on fire when the party reached the 
 spot, and the firemen were hard at work. Al- 
 though the buildings are not high (or at least 
 not according to American standards), the men 
 use very strong ladders, which can be pulled out 
 so that they will reach to great heights. But 
 the queerest thing of all in John's estimation 
 was the way in which the people on the top floor 
 of the building were rescued. 
 
 A long canvas tube was carried up a ladder 
 by a fireman, who attached it to the frame of an 
 upper window. The occupants of that floor 
 
284 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 were then slid one by one to the ground through 
 this tube, being caught at the bottom by the 
 firemen. 
 
 " Well, did you ever see anything like that ! '* 
 cried John, amazed at the funny sight. '' It's 
 great, I say ! I'd like to try it ! " 
 
 All the way up town, the talk was of fires. 
 John had been tremendously interested in the 
 English methods, and was planning to introduce 
 the use of the canvas tube to his own city 
 through a good Irish friend of his at a Boston 
 fire- station. 
 
 " Honor bright, don't you have many fires 
 over here? " he demanded of Mrs. Pitt. '' We 
 have 'em all the time at home. It must be 
 stupid here without 'em ! ' ' 
 
 ^' No, we really have very few," Mrs. Pitt re- 
 sponded. " In winter, there are a number of 
 small outbreaks, but those are very slight. You 
 see, we bum soft coal, and if the chimney is not 
 swept out quite regularly, the soot which gathers 
 there is apt to get afire. When a chimney does 
 have a blaze, the owner has to pay a fine of one 
 pound, or five dollars, to make him remember 
 his chimney. In olden times, perhaps two hun- 
 dred and fifty years ago, there used to be a tax 
 
GOOD-BY TO LONDON 285 
 
 levied on every chimney in a house. There's a 
 curious old epitaph in a church-yard at Folke- 
 stone, which hears upon this subject. It reads 
 something like this : 
 
 *A house she hath, 'tis made in such good fashion. 
 That tenant n'ere shall pay for reparation. 
 Nor will her landlord ever raise her rent. 
 Nor turn her out-of-doors for non-payment, 
 From chimney-money too, this house is free. 
 Of such a house who would not tenant be.' " 
 
 They all joined in a good laugh over this, but 
 Betty remarked that she thought it was ' ' more 
 of an advertisement for a house than an 
 epitaph. ' ' 
 
 Their particular bus had been slowly making 
 its way down Ludgate Hill, along Fleet Street, 
 into the Strand, through Trafalgar Square and 
 Piccadilly Circus, into Piccadilly itself, and had 
 now reached Hyde Park Comer, where our 
 friends climbed down the stairs and swung 
 themselves off. 
 
 Betty was grumbling just a little. '' I never 
 can get down those tiny stairs, ' ' she exclaimed, 
 *' without almost bumping my head and catch- 
 ing my umbrella in the stair-rail ! ' ' 
 
286 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 Mrs. Pitt smiled. ^' That shows you are not 
 a true Londoner, my dear. We are never 
 troubled. But, never mind; they don't have 
 buses in Switzerland." 
 
 At this, Betty was instantly herself again. 
 " London wouldn't be London without the 
 funny, inconvenient buses, I know. And it's 
 dear, every inch of it, — ^buses and all! " 
 
 Mrs. Pitt pointed out Apsley House, where 
 lived the great Duke of Wellington. A curious 
 fact about this stately old mansion is that on fine 
 afternoons, the shadow of a nearby statue of 
 this hero is thrown full upon the front of his 
 former home. 
 
 As they were about to enter Hyde Park 
 through the imposing gate, Mrs. Pitt said : — 
 
 ' ' When we stand here and gaze at this scene 
 before us, — the crowd, beautiful park, fine ho- 
 tels, houses, and shops, — it is hard to realize 
 that this was a dangerous, remote district as re- 
 cently as 1815. That was the time of many 
 daring robberies, you know, when it was not safe 
 walking, riding, or even traveling in a big 
 coach, because of the highwaymen. Even so 
 late as the year I just mentioned, this vicinity 
 from Hyde Park to Kensington was patrolled, 
 
H 5, 
 
GOOD-BY TO LONDON 287 
 
 and people went about in companies so as to be 
 comparatively secure." 
 
 The remainder of that lovely afternoon was 
 spent in Hyde Park, watching the riding and 
 driving. Having paid the fee of threepence 
 each for the use of their chairs, it was pleasant 
 to sit and look on at the gay sight. Old gentle- 
 men, stout ladies, young people, and small chil- 
 dren, all ride in England, and at certain times 
 of the day, during '^ the season " (May and 
 June), Hyde Park is always filled with a merry 
 company. In midsummer it is rather more 
 deserted, and yet the walks stretching between 
 the flower-beds, and the Serpentine stream, are 
 always flocking with people on summer Sundays 
 or ' ' bank holidays. ' ' 
 
 And so passed the last days which John and 
 Betty spent in London. All the favorite spots 
 — ^Westminster Abbey, the Tower, Kensington 
 Palace, and many others — ^had to be revisited, 
 just as though the young people never thought 
 to see them again; and then, at last came the 
 day when the father and mother were expected. 
 They all trooped to Euston Station to meet the 
 train, and in triumph escorted the American 
 friends back to Cavendish Square. There they 
 
288 JOHN AND BETTY'S HISTORY VISIT 
 
 remained for two short days and then carried 
 the almost reluctant John and Betty away with 
 them. Mrs. Pitt, Philip, and Barbara remained 
 behind on the platform, waving a last good-by, 
 and still hearing the many thanks and ex- 
 pressions of gratitude which John and Betty 
 had repeatedly poured into their ears, in return 
 for their delightful visit to England. 
 
 THE END. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Addison, Joseph, 136 
 
 Alfred the Great, 222, 227, 229 
 
 Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, 223, 
 
 227 
 Anne of Cleves, 255, 257 
 Anne, Queen, 70, 112, 114 
 Arden, Forest of, 158, 169, 202 
 " As You Like It," 157 
 Austen, Jane, 226 
 
 Bankside, 90 
 
 Bartholomew Close, 281 
 
 Bear-baiting, 90 
 
 Beeket, St. Thomas a, 254, 
 
 264 
 Bell Inn, Edmonton, 118 
 " Big Ben," 107 
 Blackheath, 256 
 Black Prince, Edward the, 
 
 120, 263 
 Boleyn, Anne, 61, 103, 128, 136 
 " Bow Bells," 17, 118 
 Bunyan, John, 89 
 Bus-drivers, 16 
 Buses, 11 
 
 Cambridge, 91 
 Canterbury, 261 
 Cathedral, 262 
 Chequers of Hope Inn, 
 
 267 
 Cloisters of Cathedral, 
 
 265 
 Pilgrims, 90, 252, 267 
 Shrine of St. Thomas h 
 
 Beeket, 263 
 St. Martin's Church, 269 
 Tales, 253 
 Carlyle, Thomas, 124 
 
 Caroline, Queen, 129 
 
 Chalfont St. Giles, 105 
 
 Charing Cross, 67 
 
 Charlecote, 167 
 Park, 167 
 
 Charles I, 100, 102 
 
 Charles II, 114, 257 
 
 Chatsworth House, 216 
 
 Chaucer, Geoffrey, 28, 112, 
 120, 252 
 
 Cheshire Cheese, 78 
 
 Clopton, Sir Hugh, 148 
 
 Cloth Fair, 281 
 
 Clovelly, 238 
 Court, 248 
 Hobby Drive, 248 
 
 Cockney, 16 
 
 Coventry, 200 
 
 Ford's Hospital, 201 
 " Peeping Tom," 200 
 St. Mary's Hall, 200 
 
 Cromwell, Oliver, 109, 136, 
 186, 198 
 
 Crosby Hall, 115 
 
 " Deans, Jeanie," 129 
 Deptford, 254 
 Devonshire, 238 
 
 Cream, 243 
 
 Legends of, 245 
 Dickens, Charles, 28, 257 
 Doomsday Book, 121 
 Drake, Sir Francis, 249, 255 
 Druids, 235 
 
 Edward I, 67, 113 
 
 III, 99, 113, 277 
 
 the Confessor, 112 
 Elizabeth, Queen, 52, 60, 69, 
 
 289 
 
290 
 
 INDEX 
 
 102, 112, 114, 129, 136, 169, 
 
 171, 197, 220, 255 
 Essex, Earl of, 61, 124 
 Eton School, 98 
 Evans, Mary Ann (George 
 
 Eliot), 124 
 
 Fawkes, Guy, 58, 120 
 Fire Brigade, 282 
 Fountains Abbey, 208 
 Franklin, Benjamin, 282 
 
 Gastrell, Rev. Francis, 148 
 George III, 56, 126 
 Gilpin, John, 118 
 Globe Theatre, 90 
 Gray, Thomas, 96 
 Greville, Fulke, 192 
 Grey, Lady Jane, 61, 120 
 Gunpov7der Plot, 58 
 
 Haddon Hall, 216 
 Hampton Court, 130 
 Harvard, John, 90, 146 
 Hathaway, Anne, 153, 157, 162 
 Henrietta Maria, Queen, 129 
 Henry II, 267 
 
 IV, 59, 263 
 
 V, 104, 113, 257 
 
 VII, Chapel of. 111 
 
 VIII, 100, 124, 128, 131, 
 257 259 
 
 Hogarth, William, 282 
 
 Holbein, Hans, 89, 133 
 
 Holy Trinity Church, Strat- 
 ford, 152 
 
 Horse Guards, 21, 275 
 
 Houses of Parliament, 13, 107, 
 123 
 
 Howard, Queen Catharine, 
 133, 136 
 
 Hyde Park Corner, 16, 285 
 
 Irving, Washington, 161, 282 
 
 James I of Scotland, 104 
 Jerusalem Chamber, 35 
 
 Kenilworth Castle, 196 
 
 Kew Gardens, 125 
 
 Palace, 126 
 Kingsley, Charles, 248 
 
 Lambeth Palace, 123 
 
 Leamington, 182 
 
 Leicester, Earl of, 59, 135, 
 
 171, 191, 198 
 "Little John," 206 
 Lollards, 124 
 London Bridge, 87 
 
 Mansfield, 203 
 
 Marlowe, Christopher, 255, 
 
 267 
 Mary, Queen, 76, 226 
 
 Queen of Scots, 112 
 " Midsummer Night's Dream," 
 
 157 
 Milton, John, 105, 282 
 Miracle Plays, 200 
 More, Sir Thomas, 53, 62, 89, 
 
 115, 124 
 
 National Gallery, 13, 275 
 Nelson, Lord, 13, 74, 114 
 Nottingham, 204, 214 
 
 Oxford, 18, 92 
 
 Paternoster Row, 118 
 
 Pembroke, Countess of, 48, 115 
 
 Penshurst Place, 42 
 
 Pepys, Samuel, 259 
 
 " Pickwick Papers," 258 
 
 Pitt, William, 26, 114 
 
 Pope, Alexander, 136 
 
 Prentices, 22 
 
 " Princes, the Little," 54 
 
 Public Record Office, 119 
 
 Rahere, 279 
 
 Raleigh, Sir Walter, 63, 120 
 
 Richard I, 211 
 
 n, 59, 113, 277 
 
 in, 115 
 Richmond Palace, 129 
 
 Park, 128 
 Robin Hood, 203 
 
INDEX 
 
 291 
 
 Robsart, Amy, 182, 194 
 Rochester, 258 
 
 Bull Inn, 258 
 
 Crown Inn, 259 
 
 Falstaff Inn, 260 
 
 Gad's Hill, 260 
 
 Restoration House, 259 
 
 White Hart Inn, 259 
 Round Table, the, 228 
 
 St. Augustine, 270 
 
 Bartholomew the Great, 
 
 Church of, 279 
 Cross Hospital, 230 
 Helen's Church, 116 
 Mary Overy, Southwark, 
 
 88 
 Paul's Cathedral, 69 
 Swithin, 223, 226 
 
 Salisbury Cathedral, 232 
 
 Sarum, Old, 234 
 
 Scott, Sir Walter, 196 
 
 Shakespeare, William, 28, 90, 
 117, 140, 169 
 
 Shelley, Percy Bysshe, 99 
 
 Shooter's Hill, 257 
 
 Shottery, 163 
 
 Sidney, Sir Philip, 41, 73, 120 
 
 Smithfield, 276 
 Market, 276 
 
 Southwark, 90, 252 
 Cathedral, 88 
 Tabard Inn, 90, 252 
 
 Spenser, Edmund, 28, 49 
 
 Star and Garter Inn, Rich- 
 mond, 127 
 
 Stoke Poges, 96 
 
 Stonehenge, 234 
 
 Stoneleigh Abbey, 201 
 
 Stone of Scone, 113 
 
 Stratford-on-Avon, 138 
 the " Birthplace," 140 
 Grammar School, 151 
 Guild Chapel, 150 
 Holy Trinity Church, 152 
 John Harvard House, 146 
 New Place, 147 
 
 Red Horse Hotel, 138 
 Shakespeare Hotel, 145 
 Shakespeare Memorial, 155 
 Weir Brake, 156 
 
 Streets in London, names of, 
 119 
 
 Swift, Dean, 136 
 
 Tabard Inn, 90, 252 
 "Tale of Two Cities," 257 
 Thames River, the, 122 
 Tower of London, 50 
 Trafalgar Square, 13, 21 
 Tyler, Wat, 278 
 
 Vauxhall, 124 
 Vernon, Dorothy, 217 
 
 Wallace, William, 278 
 Walpole, Horace, 136 
 Warwick Castle, 183 
 
 Guy of, 184, 195 
 
 Guy's Cliff, 194 
 
 Leicester's Hospital, 192 
 
 St. Mary's Church, 190 
 
 " The King-maker," 184 
 
 Vase, 187 
 Warwickshire, 167 
 Weir Brake, Stratford, 156 
 Wellington, Duke of, 74, 286 
 Westminster Abbey, 20 
 
 Chapter House, 34 
 
 Cloisters, 30 
 
 Hall, 108 
 
 School, 32 
 "Westward Ho!" 248 
 White Lodge, 129 
 William and Mary, 112, 114 
 William III, 134 
 
 Rufus, 108, 226 
 Winchester, 222 
 
 Cathedral, 224 
 
 County Court, 228 
 
 Hospital of St. Cross, 230 
 Windsor Castle, 99, 128 
 "Winter's Tale," 162 
 Wolsey, Cardinal, 120, 130 
 
Makers of England Series 
 
 By EVA MARCH TAPPAN. Ph.D. 
 
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 R. TAPPAN'S historical works have 
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 campaign of 18 12-18 14 in which the Americans were entirely successful. 
 JACK MORGAN : A Boy of ISIS Illustrated by Will Crawford 
 
 It is the adventures of a boy of the frontier during the great fight that Har^ 
 rison made on land, and Perry on the lakes for the security of the border. 
 
 THE NOANK'S r.OG : A Privateer of the Revolution Illustrated by 
 Will Crawford 
 
 The further adventures of the plucky Guert Ten Eyck, as he fought 
 King George on land and sea, 
 
 THE DESPATCH BOAT OP THE WHISTLE : A Storj of Santiago 
 
 Illustrated by Frank T. Merrill 
 
 A breezy story of a newspaper despatch boat, in the war \ rith Spain. 
 GUERT TEN ETCK Illustrated by Frank T. Merrill 
 
 A hero story of real American girls and boys, in the America Revolution. 
 THE PARTNERS Illustrated by Albert Scott Cox 
 
 A capit al story of a bright, go-ahead country girl and t o boys who 
 helped her keep store. 
 
 CHUCK PURDT : A New York Boy Illustrated 
 
 A delightful story of boy life in New York City. 
 OID GRANGER: A*Country Boy Illustrated 
 
 A capital story of American life. 
 
 ;^r sale by all booksellers or sent postpaid on receipt of price by the publisheiSi 
 
 LOTHROP. LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 
 
George Gary Eggleston's 
 Juveniles 
 
 The Bale Marked Circle X 
 
 A Blockade Running Adventure 
 
 Iliustrated by C Chase Emerson, J2mo, red clotlw illustrated 
 cover, $t.50« 
 Another of Mr. Eggleston's stirring books for youth. In 
 it are told the adventures of three boy soldiers in the Con- 
 federate Service vsrho are sent in a sloop on a secret voyage 
 from Charleston to the Bahamas, conveying a strange bale of 
 cotton which holds important documents. The boys pass 
 through starthng adventures : they run the blockade, suffer 
 shipwreck, and finally reach their destination after the 
 pluckiest kind of effort. 
 
 Camp Venture 
 
 A Story of the Virginia Mountains 
 
 Illttstrated by W. A* McCulIough. I2mo, dark red clotb, 
 illustrated cover> $U50. 
 The LouisTnlle Courier JourTtal says : " George Gary Eggles- 
 ton has written a decidedly good tale of pluck and adventure 
 in * Camp Venture.' It will be of interest to young and old 
 who enjoy an exciting story, but there is also a great deal of 
 instruction and information in the book." 
 
 The Last of the Flatboats 
 
 A Story of the Mississippi 
 
 Illustrated by Cbatlotte Harding. )2mo, green doth, illustrated 
 cover, $1.50, 
 
 The Brooklyn Eagls says : " Mr. George Gary Eggleston, 
 the veteran editor and author, has scored a double success in 
 his new book, 'The Last of the Flatboats,' which has just 
 been pubhshed. Written primarily as a story for young 
 readers, it contains many things that are of interest to older 
 people. Altogether, it is a mighty good story, and well 
 worth reading." 
 
 Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Co., Boston 
 
VouMG Defemder Series 
 
 By ELBRIDGE S. BROOKS 
 
 ^H [«>J^MM)i— .M^ If UlfPfl^ 
 
 
 s 
 
 .,..WA^.««W. 
 
 M* 
 
 1 
 
 ^^mnAfi 
 
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 ELBSIPCC; S.BCeoKS 
 
 
 IN DEFENCE OF THE FLAG 
 
 A Boy's Adventures in Spain and Cuba in the 
 War of 1898 
 
 Illustrated by W. F. Stecher i2mo Cloth $1.25 
 
 A STORY of action and adventure such as all 
 healthy boys like, telling of a plucky young 
 American who defended his country's flag against 
 mobs in Spain and foemen in Cuba, and had many 
 'thrilling experiences. 
 
 " Suffice it to say that he will be a lucky boy, with many a ti^rill before him, 
 who finds this book in his Christmas stocking. Don is a hero after every boy's 
 heart." — Boston Herald. 
 
 WITH LAWTON AND ROBERTS 
 A Boy's Adventures in the Philippines and the Transvaal 
 
 Illustrated by C. Chase Emerson i2mo Cloth $1.25 
 
 THE stirring adventures of a manly American boy who follows Lawton 
 in his last campaigns, and by a singular train of circumstances has 
 "moving accidents by flood and field, "in two wars, with American soldiers, 
 Filipino insurrectos, Malay pirates, English troopers, and Boer burghers. 
 " Mr. Brooks presents vivid pictures of both wars, so widely separated. His 
 pages are full of tne swift-moving incidents which boys love. Dull indeed must 
 6e the young reader whose interest flags," — Boston Journal. 
 
 UNDER THE ALLIED FLAGS 
 
 A Boy's Adventures in China During the Boxer 
 Revolt 
 
 Illustrated by W. F. Stecher i2mo Cloth $1.25 
 
 THE stirring story of an American boy's adventures in 
 Tien Tsin and Pekin, in the ranks of the Interna- 
 tional troops and as one of the defenders of the be- 
 leaguered legations. Up-to-date, absorbing, and full of 
 healthy excitement. Characters who are in the stories 
 " With Lawton and Roberts " and '• In Defence of the 
 Flag ' ' reappear in this story. 
 
 " Men and women, boys and girls, of all the mingled nationalities that made 
 this war in China so picturesque, appear in the story and give it vigor, variety, and 
 unflagging interest." — Cleveland World. 
 
 For sale by all booksellers or sent postpaid on receipt of price 
 by the publishers, 
 
 LOTHROP. LEE & SHEPARD CO.. BOSTON 
 
mM 28 \m 
 
One copy del. to Cat. Div. 
 
LIBRARY