aMMMM»iai»mm.im'j m w.m* M r M . HI -*■ FOREIGN EXPERIENCES OF jk AN AMERICAN QIRL A ELIZABETH & MILLER & LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, ffl&ap Gopijrtsfjt fa Shelf ^.£4 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. FOREIGN EXPERIENCES OF AN AMERICAN GIRL BY IUN 3 1895 ELIZABETH E MILLER /<"!/ ^ t ^ PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR MEADVILLE, PENN. P. O. BOX 794 1895 MESSENGER PRINT. h THE LIBRARY or CONGRESS WASHINGTON Copyright, 1895, ELIZABETH E. MTLLER. TO JESSIE A. McGILL MY FRIEND AND COMPANION ABROAD, PREFACE. An account of a trip abroad is always interesting to the great majority, and when upon the author's return from Germany she was beset with questions about the voyage, different coun- tries, cities and peoples, she found it impossible to answer them satisfactorily in a short time. Often, too, she foigot to mention the most interesting facts. In the spring of '94 was formed the project of writing a short history of the journey, and having it published, under the title of "Notes on Travel," in a series of ten pamphlets, — the first to appear in May, and the others semi-mouthl}- until the number should be complete. The project was carried out, and the "Notes" were so well received that the author has been encouraged to enlarge them ; and it is with the hope that this little book may prove not only entertaining, but also instructive and helpful, that it is sent before the public. Elizabeth E. Miliar. CONTENTS. Chapter. Page. I. The Voyage. — Preliminaries — Passengers — First Days— Whales— The Old Lady— Bible Lost- English Channel— Isle of Wight— Boulogne. - i II. Holland. — Scenery— The Doctor — Rotterdam— For eign Trains— Trunk Lost. - - - 14 III. Cologne.— The Cathedral— The Continental Sun day— Zoological Garden— Theater. - 19 IV. Up the Rhine. — Bonn — Nonnenwerth and Legend- Places of Interest — Lorelei — Mouse Tower and Legend — Bingen. .... 24 V. Mainz to Leipsic— Torchlight Procession— Cen- tral Germany — The Wartburg. - - 31 VI. Leipsic— Experiences and Sights of First Two Weeks ------ 35 VII. Places of Historical Interest. — Pleissenburg — Napoleoustein — Schiller House — Queer Passage ways — Goethe House — Nikolaikirche. - 49 VIII. The University. — Experiences at — Installation of Rector — Boat-ride. - - - - 55 IX. Christmas and New Year. - - 65 X. A Medley. — Shopping — Circus — German Cooking — Receptions — Coffees — Confirmation — Carl Rein- ecke — Sarasate — Careno and D'Albert — Rubin- stein — King and Queen of Saxony — Auerbach's Keller. - - - - - - 71 XI. The Great Fair. — Appearance of Streets— Articles for Sale — Sunday — Amusements. - - 84 Vlil CONTEXTS. XII. Spring Excursions — Monarchenhuegel — Doelitz— Rosenthal — Scheibenholz. - - 8g XIII. Berlin. —Zoological Garden — Aquarium — Unter den Linden — Royal Palace — Magic Flute — Pal- ace of Wilkelm I. — Mausoleum — Rosa Sucher — Old Museum — At the Station. - - 92 XIV. Dresden.— Scenery— Bruehl Terrace — The "Zoo" — Grosser Garten — Sistine Madonna — The Opera. 104 XV. Weimar. - The Schiller and Goethe Homes — Park- Remains of Goethe and Schiller — Statue of Herder. - - - - 112 XVI. London. — Journey to — The Bank — Street Scenes- Westminster Abbey— Parliament Houses — Na- tional Gallery — Hyde Park — John Wesley's House — Grave of Buuyan — The Tower. - 121 XVII. Across the Atlantic and up the St. Lawren< e. Liverpool — Stormy Weather— Icebergs — Cod Fishiug — Sunset on the St. Lawrence — Phos- phorescent Lights — Quebec — Montreal — Thou- sand Islands — Conclusion. - - - 131 XVIII. Suggestions to those Intending to go Abroad. 144 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. CHAPTER I. THE VOYAGE. SINCE childhood the greatest desire of my life has been to visit foreign lands, and when a number of years ago at Chautauqua, N. Y., I ex- pressed my determination to go to Germany to study at the first opportunity that should offer, a friend of mine, a young lady, said, "I will go with you." Thus an agreement was made, but neither of us thought that the time for its fulfillment was near at hand. However, the Fates were propitious, and almost before we realized it, preparations for the journey had been made, and one morning, late in the summer of '92, found us at Meadville, awaiting the morning train for New York, from which place we were to sail the following Saturday via the Nether- land's Line. 2 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES On account of floods and a partial derailment of our engine, we were about five hours behind time, when we arrived at New York. It seemed almost incredible that it was long past midnight, for the part of the city through which we passed was all astir. The brilliant lights showed vehicles of many- kinds on the streets; stores were open, and so many about that one wondered when the New Yorkers slept. When our hotel was reached, we were disap- pointed at finding it full, but the porter was so kind as to conduct us to another near by. Next morning it was raining, but we crossed the Brooklyn Bridge, saw some of the public buildings, and walked up Broadway. Our visit to Central Park was deferred on account of the unpleasant weather. As our steamer was to sail next morning from Hoboken, we passed the night at that place. Poor creatures! Little did we know what awaited us! We had a room with canopied bed. That the can- opy was of rose-colored mosquito-netting did not at the time arouse our suspicions, but shortly after re- tiring we heard an ominous hum, and began to realize what the canopy was for. We had not care- fully closed the curtains, and soon were called upon to battle with Jersey mosquitoes. As long as we kept awake we could keep them off, but when we entered the "Land of Nod," the_\- gained a glorious victor)', and we withdrew next morning from the OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 3 field, with swollen lips and eyelids, looking, indeed, utterly defeated. However, there was no time for grieving, we must procure steamer-chairs, and see whether our baggage had been transferred to the boat. At the dock there was a busy scene. Sailors were hurrying back and forth, conveying the last articles upon the vessel; trunks were being lowered into the hold; baggage carried to the staterooms; and the steerage passengers provided with new mat- tresses. Our arrangements completed, we went on board and seated ourselves on deck. Passengers kept arriving, many accompanied by friends, and on the wharf stood a motley crowd, awaiting the de- parture of the boat. The scene became more quiet. The signal for visitors to leave was given; the gang- planks were pulled in; the cables loosed; the whistle blown; and we were off for Europe. We stood watching the waving handkerchiefs at the dock, until they disappeared from view, and then turned our attention to the attractive scenes about us. Behind, like some huge spider-web, stretched Brooklyn Bridge; at our right, majestic "Liberty" held aloft her beaming torch; about us were all sorts of craft, from the little row-boat to the stately ocean steamer, and as we glided along, strong fort- resses, large hotels, and summer residences were passed. 4 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES A few short hours afterward we were well out at sea, and all that could be seen of the land was a dim outline. The breeze became stiffer, and the boat more unsteady, but everybody was yet in high spirits, and when the luncheon bell rang at noon it was a welcome sound. Places were assigned us at the first mate's table, where also sat three other officers, a German baron, a French governess and her pupil, a student of art and one of music, and a supposed actress. Among the other passengers were an American consul to Switzerland; an artist, accompanied by his wife, and beautiful golden-haired little girl, the only child on board; students going to Paris and Leipsic, and pleasure seekers. After luncheon all again went on deck, some to watch the dashing of the spray against the sides of the vessel, others to promenade, chat, or read. Time passed so quickly that ere we were aware of it 5 o'clock had come, and with it dinner. After this excellent meal, it seemed as though no one would care for anything more that day; but at 9 o'clock supper was eaten. It was destined, though, to be the last meal for several days for some poor mortals. All were yet feeling well on retiring, but in the night doleful sounds were heard in adjoining state-rooms, and next morning but few were at the breakfast table. One by one they succumbed, until the ship was turned into a temporary hospital. Some re- OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 5 mained down stairs, but the majority were on deck, lying on benches or steamer-chairs. During the next few days all was very quiet on board, but we who were so fortunate as to escape sea-sickness did not lack entertainment. There was the grand, ever-changing ocean, now heav- ing us aloft on the crest of a billow, then as sud- denly dropping us into the trough of the sea, and as the vessel in spite of all this kept plough- ing along, dashing the spray about, the water re- coiled from its sides, surging and foaming, looking like drifting snow on the emerald deep. Then there were the sea-swallows and sea-gulls, the passing ships, and a thousand things about the boat that in- terested us. We spent considerable time watching the sailors clambering up and down the rope-ladders, or furling and unfurling the sails twenty or thirty feet above the deck. It made us almost dizzy to look at them as they lay across the spars, their heads on one side, and their feet on the other, with nothing to steady them but a slender rope passing under the heels. Among those who escaped illness was Mr. A., and one morning, as my friend and I were lounging on deck, he took a seat near us. We entered into conversation and were surprised to learn that he also was going to Leipsic — our destination. Suddenly he said, " If you wish to see some large fishes, just 6 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES look out there." We hastened to the side of the vessel, and there, apparently running a race with us, was a number of porpoises, or sea-hogs as they are called by some, and indeed they somewhat remind one of swine, their bodies are so plump. They looked almost black, were from five to six feet long, and had large dorsal and tail fins. They seemed to be having a grand frolic, jumping about from wave to wave, and keeping up with the vessel at the same time. They followed us perhaps a half hour, and then disappeared. In the course of a few days the sick had mostly recovered, and when we tired of chatting or reading, we had music and games. The evenings passed so pleasantly that it was often eleven o'clock when we retired, and when morning came we were so sleepy that we could scarcely rise. Several times we were late at breakfast, and the doctor, a jovial, entertain- ing bachelor, laughingly threatened to have us sent for, if we should be late again. We all were so well acquainted that it seemed we had known one another for years, except the baron, who seemed to hold himself aloof and associate only with the officers. One day, however, the captain told one of the ladies that the baron was offended, because none of us had spoken to him. We, knowing that he was a Ger- man, thought he ought to address us first, as that is the custom in Germany, but he expected us to make OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. J the first advances, because we were Americans. The ladies, now understanding his reserve, conversed with him, and after this he was very courteous to all. Thus far it had been delightfully warm, but as we left the Gulf Stream, the temperature fell. We were all anxious to see icebergs and whales, and the cap- tain told us we might catch a glimpse of them now at any time, but the fog soon became so dense that we could see nothing. We were in the "banks" off Newfoundland. And dreary enough it was ! The gray vapory wall was all about us, and the solemn warning tone of the fog-horn drowned all else, and filled us with a nameless dread. One morning, after passing through the "Devil's Hole" — so called on account of the frequent storms there — the fog had partly cleared away and one could see two or three miles. Mr. N., the artist, was carrying his little daughter about, when he espied a whale, and soon all were straining their eyes to catch a glimpse of it. It was far away and could only be detected by its spouting. I failed to see it, but soon we discovered six others. We were all much inter- ested, and watched them as long as we could, occasionally catching sight of their huge backs and tails. When we were about halfway across the Atlantic the wind arose and with it the waves. Many of the passengers again became ill, but some of us suffered 8 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES not the slightest inconvenience. The marine specta- cle was grand beyond description. The immense swells reminded one of numberless racing hills, and as I gazed upon them, and thought of whence they had come and whither they were going, what shores they had visited, and what mysteries were theirs, I better realized the omnipotence of the Creator. A passing ship always created excitement on board. Some days we saw two or three, others, none at all. Often at the horizon we spied the smoke of steamers, before we could see anything of the boats themselves. As soon as they came into view the captain scrutinized them closely through his glass, and if they came near enough, signaled by means of flags run up on a line attached to one of the masts. Different combinations of the flags have different significations, and, as many combinations are possible, much can be expressed in this way. The signal was always answered, so that we knew what kind of a vessel had passed us. Those that appeared most picturesque were a Norwegian, and a Turkish sailing vessel, which, in the blue distance, looked like phantom ships sailing in the sky. On the deck to which the second-class passengers were confined, we frequently noticed an old woman, who seemed to be without friends. Her sad and lonely air, as she sat there knitting, touched our hearts, and we determined to speak to her as soon OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. Q as possible. The second Sunday out we had divine services, to which the second-class passengers came — among them the old lady. This was our chance, and at the close of the services Miss G. and I ex- changed a few words with her, and learned that she was German and could speak no English. She also was the only woman traveling second-class. We asked the captain whether she might not come over to visit us, and he said, "Yes, do all the good you can." Miss G. and I, who both could speak Ger- man, called to see the old woman, and invited her to visit us as often as she felt so inclined. She was delighted, and visited us a number of times, and told us her story. Her son had gone to America a number of years before and settled in Michigan, where he married. He had always been a good, kind, dutiful son, and when his father died at Mainz, requested his mother to come to America, and spend the remainder of her days with him. She had gone, but was mal- treated by her daughter-in-law. She had endured it perhaps a year, and then had packed up and gone to visit a friend in one of the other states, and after- ward, without letting her son know of her intention, had embarked for Europe. She was returning to Mainz, where a married daughter resided. Her daughter would always be kind to her, she said, but she lived in a hotel, of which her husband was pro- IO FOREIGN EXPERIEN'CES prietor, and had a family, so that it would not be a quiet place for an old person to stay. She gave us her daughter's address, and wished us to call there when we stopped at Mainz, but time was too short, and the last we saw of our old friend was when we bade her good-by at Rotterdam. A laughable incident took place one morning, shortly before the end of the voyage. I was read- ing the Bible, when something attracted my atten- tion, and laying some of my heavy wraps and the Bible upon my steamer-chair, I went away for a few minutes. When I returned my Bible was gone, and no one about had seen it. Just then the captain ap- proached us, and I jokingly said, "Captain, did you take my Bible?" A mischievous expression stole over his face, as he searched his pockets, and looked about the deck. Then going to the hatchway he pressed the electric button for the chief steward, who swiftly came to learn the captain's will. I was rather uneasy, and wondered what was going to be done, when the captain, in his most commanding tone, said, "This lady has lost her Bible; go, seek everywhere." The steward disappeared as suddenly as he had come, and soon returned with the Bible, handing it to me with a most deferential bow. I did not ask where he had found it, but learned from Miss M. that she, thinking I had finished reading, had taken it to our state-room. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I I The purser of the boat — a handsome young Dutchman — attracted considerable attention among the ladies. One evening, Miss S., an artist, per- suaded him to give her a sitting, and as she sketched, the other girls gathered about to look on. Mr. D. was strengthened during the ordeal, which lasted three-fourths of an hour, by candy and pea-nuts, given him by the sympathetic young ladies. He was pleased with the artist's effort, and wrote his name beneath the sketch. Thus did the days glide pleasantly by, and one bright morning found us in the English Channel. We had in the night passed the high and rocky Scilly Islands, which are surrounded by the waters of the Gulf Stream, and where grow the lovely roses that adorn the London drawing-rooms in winter. While at breakfast we passed near Cape Lizard, on which we saw a light-house and a few other build- ings. All were now eager to view the shore, and the last bites were hurriedly swallowed, wraps donned, and the decks sought. We were being borne farther away from land, so that objects could not readily be distinguished except with the aid of a glass, but it was a charming view, nevertheless. Over all was the blue dome of heaven; beneath, the Nile-green expanse of the channel, dotted with many sails; and at our left, the kaleidoscopic colors of the landscape. A line of white along the shore 12 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES betrayed the breakers, farther back a predominance of darkest green told of whispering woods, and patches of red and yellow in emerald settings gave knowledge of ripening crops in hedged fields. White dots on high promontories showed the loca- tion of light-houses and signal-stations, and dashes of color here and there on shore and hill made known the existence of village and town. As we advanced the vessels about us became very numerous, and the captain remained at his post all night to guard against possible collisions. A sailor in a kind of box, called the " Crow's Nest," half way up the foremast, also kept watch, and when the bells on the ship rang at the end of every half hour, shouted, "All's well!" During the evening, while watching the many warning-lights along the shore, some of which were stationary and some revolving, we noticed one of unusual brilliancy shining almost like a sun, and were informed that it was the Isle of Wight. A cluster of smaller lights in the rear shone from the dwellings, and we wondered which were in Queen Victoria's and Tennyson's summer residences. The night was mild and calm and still, and the Queen of Heaven riding majestically along marked out with her magic wand a silver}- way, in which the wavelets merrily danced. Gazing out into the dis- tance we saw a boat with sails all set approaching, OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 13 and soon like some white-winged bird it flitted across the silvery path and disappeared, but the picture remains as a masterpiece in Memory's gallery. Next morning valises were being packed, trunks raised from the hold, and all put in readiness to drop the anchor. We were now not far from Boulogne, where some of the passengers were to leave us. We could see nothing at first as it was foggy, but after a time it became clearer, and we could see the dark outlines of the coast of France. In the course of a few hours the command, "Let go the anchor!" was given, and the vessel came to a stand-still in water tinted with every shade of green. Before us, partly concealed in a valley, the city lay basking in the sunshine, and soon a small boat came puffing out to us. A Frenchman with dark hair and moustache tossed the captain a bundle of papers, and told him that the cholera had increased much since we left New York. Those of the passengers who were go- ing to land at Boulogne bade us good-by, entered the boat, and soon with tearful faces were borne away, waving their handkerchiefs as long as they could see us. We, too, soon weighed anchor and went on our way. We felt sad and lonely after part- ing from our acquaintances and were filled with anxious forebodings concerning the cholera. Dur- ing the night we again anchored near the river Maas, until the tide should be in our favor. 14 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES CHAPTER II. HOLLAND. AT three o'clock in the morning we were called and told to hold ourselves in readiness to receive the doctor, as he would ere long come on board. The boat was now again under way, and we had the privi- lege of seeing the sun rise over the low swampy shore of Holland. We were soon steaming up the river, and were much amused when some one said, "Oh, there's a horse!" as though we had not seen one for years. To be sure we had been on the ocean two weeks, and all sights and sounds of the land now seemed doubly dear to us. The scenes about us were most novel and picturesque. The dikes, the windmills, the low-lying verdant meadows, the canals, the grazing herds, the thatched cottages, the sheltering firs, the trim gardens, and the quaint dress of the peasantry, filled us with delight. After proceeding a number of miles, the doctor and custom-house officers came on board. The doctor had with him his son, a little, black curly- haired fellow, with large expressive eyes, who at once won the hearts of all the ladies. On account of OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I 5 the cholera every one on board had to be sprinkled with disinfectant — first the crew and then the passen- gers. Before we were aware of what was taking place, Mr. A., laughing, came to us and called our attention to the proceedings on the lower deck, and informed us that we would be subjected to the same treatment. He was so anxioajs to see the fun that he could scarcely wait until we went below, and when the doctor sprinkled our clothing with the solu- tion, Mr. A. stood by laughing heartily. We, too, had to laugh, when, as Miss D. turned to go, the doctor threw some of the liquid from his brush at her and wet her back hair, which she had so beautifully curled that morning. The custom-house officers next desired our attention. Our trunks were opened and examined and then we were free to go on deck again. We were now entering Rotterdam, and soon came to the wharf, where a crowd of hackmen, draymen, and loafers were awaiting our arrival. It was with regret that we parted from our fellow-passengers, and left the ship, which had come to seem like home to us. A party of four of us had decided to go up the Rhine together. We were going by rail to Cologne, and there take a boat, but as we could not get a train until afternoon, we took a cab for Hotel Maas. As we were driven through the streets we caught glimpses of strange sights: women and dogs draw- 1 6 . FOREIGN EXPERIENCES ing carts laden with market produce; peasants clat- tering along in wooden shoes; and women with large earrings, prominent'ornaments on each side of the forehead, and white head-dresses — the personifi- cation of neatness and quaintness. Hotel Maas, with its white marble entrance adorned with conservatory plants, impressed us favorably. Here we left our baggage and then sought one of the banks, a large, handsomely appointed and dura- ble building. Our business being attended to, we took a short walk. Had we been inclined to forget the day of the week, (Saturday) we would have been forcibly reminded of it ere we had proceeded far. Everywhere servant girls were sweeping, scrubbing, and beating rugs. Even some of the streets were deluged with water, and women were cleaning them. As we picked our way over the damp pavements, we noticed the numerous canals and sail-boats in the very heart of the city. When we returned to the hotel for dinner, we were delighted to find a number of our steamer friends there. After dining with them we went on another short exploring tour about the city. We were struck with the durability of everything; the stone pave- ments; the strong walls of the canals; the solid stone and iron bridges; and the brick and stone buildings — all will last for centuries. The dwelling- houses are of fanciful designs, usually high and nar- OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. If row, with many dormer windows. The small front yards are enclosed by high vine-covered iron fences, through which one catches glimpses of freshly grav- elled walks, shrubbery, and odd combinations of bright colored flowers. The time soon came for us to go to the depot. Here we had our trunks weighed and forwarded by freight, as one is allowed only a small amount of baggage with him, and it is very expensive to pay ex- press charges on a large trunk. We had some amusing experiences with the officials, as some spoke only Dutch; others, German and a little English. Shortly before the time for our departure, a queer looking train backed into the station. The coaches were short, and divided crosswise into a number of compartments, entered by doors in the side of the car. We had a compartment to ourselves and found the two high cushioned seats, facing each other, very comfortable. It was like the inside of a barouche, only that there was more space. For a number of hours the country through which we rode was a suc- cession of small rectangular islands, formed by the intersecting canals, and almost every cottage had a boat tied before it. We had been speeding along for some time through these Venetian-like scenes, when Miss D. suddenly exclaimed, "Oh, my steamer- trunk!" We wondered what she could mean, and she explained that it had just flashed across her 1 8 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES mind that she had not had her steamer-trunk trans- ferred from the dock to the depot. In attending to her hand-baggage and large trunk, the smaller one had been forgotten. The tears stood in the poor girl's eyes as she thought of the valuable articles that would be lost, could she not regain the trunk. What to do! Already we were almost a hundred miles from Rotterdam. For all to return would in- cur much loss of time and money, and Miss D. did not wish to return alone. Finally, we telegraphed to a friend, who was yet in Rotterdam, and asked her to look up the trunk, which she promised to do, but whether Miss D. ever regained it, I do not know, as we went our separate ways soon after. As we approached Germany the canals became less and less numerous, until they finally disappeared. At the frontier station, Emerich, we had to open all our baggage for inspection. When we had again entered the car, a doctor went the rounds to see if any had symptoms of cholera. He put his head into our compartment, but evidently thought we were a healthy looking crowd, for he smiled as he said, "Alle gesund?" About 9:45 p. m. we saw the lights of Cologne re- flected in the storied Rhine of which I had read, thought, and dreamed! How my heart thrilled with joy as I gazed at the mirror-like surface all aglow from the lights along the shore, and on the bridges! OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 19 CHAPTER III. COLOGNE. ALIGHTING in the spacious station, we soon found the way to Hotel Continental, which stands in the shade of the grand cathedral. The house was full, but, by setting up extra beds, room was made for us. We had been able to get no sup- per until now, and were very hungry. And how delicious everything was! The butter, and bread of which there were three or four kinds, were especially good, and the loaf and large knife, placed on the table, kept traveling about from one plate to another. Luncheon over we retired to our respective rooms. Three of us girls were together, but each had her own bed, as is customary in Germany. Such fat little beds as they were, too, with their feather cov- erings! When we had succeeded in getting into them, we lay looking at each other and laughing, for each peeped out from under a miniature mountain. Soon after breakfast, next morning, the cathedral bells were ringing, and donning our wraps we went to attend services in the beautiful Gothic structure. How much of history is connected with those gray stone walls, the beautiful carving, and the lofty 20 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES towers, while completing which six centuries rolled away! The marble and mosaic floors were that morning pressed by the feet of many hundreds, and the subdued light coming through the variously tinted and beautifully designed windows, revealed many who were unable to obtain seats, among whom we were included. Becoming somewhat weary, we leaned against one of the massive stone columns supporting the roof, and listened to the deep tones of the organ as they resounded among the lofty arches, and then dying away bore our thoughts up to God. The sermon was not so impressive, as we could not see the priest, nor hear all he said. In the evening we had the opportunity of seeing life as it is in Germany on a Sunday. And novel enough it seems to an American, for it is the liveliest day of the whole week! There are dances, concerts, plays, and shows without number. The principal streets were so crowded that we could scarcely make our way through. Old and young, rich and poor, were hurrying by. Not only did they occupy the sidewalks, but the middle of the street also, and the coachmen of the carriages that were out were obliged to drive very slowly, and frequently to shout and crack the whip. Soon we came to an arcade, and here was a gay scene, certainly; the same multitude passing along a brilliantly lighted, glass-covered passage lined with man)- restaurants, through whose OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 21 unshaded windows one saw families, friends, and lovers seated about small tables, and eating light luncheons, or having a social glass of beer or wine. Strains of music, borne to us on the evening air, told of beer-gardens not far away, and thus on every hand we were greeted by gay sights and lively sounds. This was our first Sunday abroad. Monday was a delightful September day and we enjoyed it to the full. We looked about the city for some time, and as everybody does, stopped at a store to buy some cologne — named after the city be- cause first manufactured at that place. Then going to the river we took a boat for the Zoological Gar- den, which we reached in about ten minutes. The first thing that attracted our attention was an exhi- bition-building where wax-works, pictures, relics, and a wonderful bearded woman from America, were to be seen. The wax-works were good, there being many historical figures in the collection. Some that were placed about the room were so natural that coming upon them suddenly we stepped back to let them pass, and were about to beg pardon, when we were struck by their rigidity. The pictures, which were viewed through large magnifying glasses, were beautiful, and the relics, interesting, but the bearded woman we had no admiration for, and judging from the fluency with which she spoke German, I think she had never even seen America. 22 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES Up»tairs we came to a variety of mirrors and were soon lost in contemplation of ourselves. Do not think us vain. It was not admiration that held us there, but amusement at our own reflections. It seemed as though a roomful of dime-museum won- ders had suddenly stepped before us — the fat woman, the lean man, the dwarf, and creatures distorted in every way. We laughed and laughed, until I began to think we would never get out of the building alive, but summoning all our powers of control, we succeeded in restoring gravity, although for some time after our lips would twitch in the most unac- countable manner. We wandered about through the Zoological Gar- den until we became weary, and then entered a beer- garden in the midst of a beautiful park. Here were gathered the beauty and fashion of Cologne. Men, women, and children were seated on the spacious balconies of the establishment and at the hundreds of little tables in the surrounding park. A band in a neighboring pavilion discoursed excellent music, and the waiters were hurrying about with bread, cake, and drinks of various kinds — beer predominating. An hour or so was spent by some over a single glass, the women occupying themselves with their fancy-work, the men smoking, and the children playing about. Seating ourselves at one of the tables, we ordered some mineral water over which we awhile watched OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 23 the bright and ever-changing picture, and then wended our way hotelward, along the gravelled walks circling through verdant, shady lawns, where fountains played and flowers bloomed. In the evening it was our privilege to hear Schil- ler's "Kabale und Liebe" rendered by good talent. When we were about to pass in to take our seats, an old lady called to us to leave our hats and wraps with her. We paid no attention as we thought it was a scheme of hers to make money, but she called a num- ber of times and concluded by saying, "Be assured, my ladies, if you do not take off your hats, you will be sent out, " so we finally yielded, and gave her twenty pfennige (5 cts.) for the check. At the door, programs were furnished for ten pfennige. When we entered the parquet we soon noticed that all women — as well as men — had left their hats and wraps out- side in the cloak-rooms. This is customary all through Germany, and the Americans would do well to copy. In another way also the Germans are far more polite than we. When any one arrives late at a play, he usually stands back in the aisle, until the end of a scene before taking his seat, and thus the pleasure of hundreds is not spoiled by the selfishness of one. 24 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES CHAPTER IV. UP THE RHINE. OUR delightful stay at Cologne had come to an end, and we now found ourselves seated on the spacious deck of a Rhine boat. At first the wind blew so hard that we could with difficulty keep our hats on, but later it became calm and the day was perfect. The scenery from Cologne to Bonn is very ordi- nary, the land being low, and dotted with clumps of trees, and villages; but it seems fortunate that it is so, for one is better prepared after a series of reflections to appreciate the beauties that follow. As we swiftly glide along on the Alpine-born stream, it speaks to usof Roman soldiers, whose steady tramp, tramp, once resounded along the shores; of the battle-cry and clash of arms that floated from those distant hills, as the barons who occupied the now ruinous castles waged war against one another; and of the multitude of char- acters found in legend, song, and poem. Of the few and short stops that our boat made, the first was at Bonn, the seat of a university and the birth-place of Beethoven. Three-quarters of an hour later we had reached the Siebengebirge, a group of OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 25 volcanic mountains, from which the stone used in the construction of the cathedral at Cologne was taken. On two of the neighboring peaks, the castles, Drachen- fels and Rolandseck, are seen, and in the center of the river is the island of Nonnenwerth, above whose tree-tops rise the chimneys of a convent. The legend concerning the castles and island is, that a nephew of Charles the Great, Knight Roland by name, who was renowned for his brave deeds, one night desired lodging at Drachenfels. He was cor- dially welcomed, and when morning came was urged to remain longer, which he gladly did, as he had at first sight fallen in love with the host's beautiful daughter, the Countess of Drachenfels. As the days went by Roland loved to watch the flowers growing on the linen which the countess was embroidering, and she in turn, to listen to his experiences in foreign lands. Thus the time passed quickly and pleasantly, until one day when came the news of an approaching conflict with the Huns. Duty called and Roland must go, but before taking leave, he wished once more to visit all the places in the garden, where he had passed so many happy hours. Lost in reverie, he was slowly walking along, when he heard low sobs proceeding from a honeysuckle arbor. He quietly approached and looked in, and there beheld his adored one shedding tears at the thought of his departure. How happy was Roland to know that 26 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES his love was returned! And what passionate words he now poured forth into the countess' willing ear! The parents were no less pleased, and gave a banquet in honor of the betrothal. Then Roland, donning his armor, mounted his charger and rode away. During the war, Roland's bravery was a common theme, and when the close of the contest drew near his return was eagerly awaited. But he came not, and others brought the report of his death upon the battle-field. As time passed the countess became more and more sorrowful, and determining to spend the remainder of her days in prayer, entered the con- vent on the island of Nonnenwerth. One morning, a number of years afterward, Roland joyously galloped up to the castle, but he was fright- ened at the sad looks of his friends, and on hearing of his betrothed's having become a nun was in despair. Hoping to catch sight of her occasionally, he built castle Rolandseck on one of the neighboring peaks, opposite the convent. One evening while seated on his balcony, he heard the convent bell toll, and saw the nuns carrying a black casket to the burying-ground, and as the funeral dirge floated up to him he buried his head in his hands and wept. He had a presentiment that it was his loved one, who had gone to the spirit-land, and soon learned that it was indeed sin-. Wishing to join her as soon as possible, Roland went to distant OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 2J battle-fields, where he bravely met death, some time after. Beyond the Siebengebirge a series of delightful surprises were in store for us, and everything was so beautiful that we seemed to be living through the scenes in a story-book. " 'Twas morn, and beauteous on the mountain's brow (Hung with the blushes of the bending vine) Streamed the blue light, when on the sparkling Rhine We bounded, and the white waves round the prow In murmurs parted; varying as we go, I v o ! the woods open and rocks retire; Some convent's ancient walls, or glistening spire 'Mid the bright landscape's tract unfolding slow. Here dark with furrowed aspect like despair, Hangs the bleak cliff, there on the woodland's side The shadowy sunshine pours its streaming tide; Whilst Hope, enchanted with a scene so fair, Would wish to linger many a summer's day, Nor heeds how fast the prospect winds away." To mention all the villages and cities passed would be both tedious and uninteresting, so I shall men- tion but a few: Appollinarisberg, noted for its min- eral water; Oberhammerstein, the refuge place, in 1 105, of Henry IV of Rome; Andernach, containing the ruins of a city gate built by the Romans; Weis- senthurm, near which is a monument in memory of the French general, Hoche; Ehrenbreitstein, the German Gibraltar; Coblenz, the capital of the Prus- sian Rhenish provinces; and Rhense, whither the 28 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES emperor and electors formerly came to consult on af- fairs of State. Just beyond Rhense is an immense bend in the river, and the mountains, which have been growing taller, have approached the water so closely that their projecting bases would cut off all travel along the banks of the river, were it not for numerous tun- nels, and roads winding up the mountain-side. Lonely towers, shattered walls, and ancient castles look down from their respective heights upon the ter- raced vineyards and the nestling villages. And see! yonder majestically rises Mount Lorelei, where as the story goes, a beautiful mermaid used often to sit, and comb her beautiful hair, while she sang songs of wondrous sweetness. As we glide past this rocky and precipitous mountain, Heine's popular poem, "The Lorelei," comes to mind. " I know not whence it rises, This thought so full of woe, But a tale of times departed Haunts me, and will not go. The air is cool and it darkens, And calmly flows the Rhine; The mountain peaks are sparkling In the sunny evening-shine. And yonder sits a maiden, — The fairest of the fair ; With gold is her garment glittering, And she combs her golden hair. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 29 With a golden comb she combs it, And a wild song singeth she, That melts the heart with a wondrous And powerful melody. The boatman feels his bosom With a nameless longing move : He sees not the gulf before him, — His gaze is fixed above. I believe over boat and boatman, In the end the billows run ; And 'tis this that with her singing By the Lorelei was done." As day was drawing to a close, and the shadows were stealing across the river, we passed the Mouse Tower, which is situated on a rock in the center of the stream. In the Middle Ages the tower served as a toll-station, and afterwards as a signal-station, where by means of drawing in a flag, ships sailing down the river were timely warned of others coming up through the Bingerloch — a powerful whirlpool caused by immense rocks on both sides, which forced the river to pass through a narrow channel, since somewhat widened by blasting. The legend connected with the Mouse Tower is that Hatto, Archbishop of Mainz, during a famine kept his well-filled granaries locked, and lived more sumptuously than usual to attract attention. The people incensed at this inhumanity revolted, but many paid the penalty with their lives. The ring- 30 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES leaders were confined in a barn, and burned to death, and when they were crying out in their misery, the archbishop made sport of them, and likened their cries to the squeaking of mice. During the following night, thousands of mice invaded the archbishop's palace, and began to tear his flesh. He fled and had a bed hung on chains in the Tower in the center of the Rhine, but to no avail. The mice reached him and gnawed his flesh away. "Bingen, dear Bingen on the Rhine" soon after lay before us. Nestling at the foot of the Rochus mountain, with the Nahe river gliding past into the Rhine, it seemed that evening like a town in some enchanted land. The thin haze about it imparted a dreamy aspect, and the sunset glow was too exquisite for mortal pen to picture. Ere long the beautiful sight had faded away in the distance, and new scenes were attracting our attention. At our left was the Niederwald, and half way up the sloping mountain side, the National Monument, built to commemorate the victory of the war of 1870-71. All objects were soon lost in the gathering darkness, and we contented ourselves with watching the lights along the shore, and their reflection in the water, until we reached Mainz, which was all ablaze with different colored lights. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 31 CHAPTER V. FROM MAINZ TO LEIPSIC. IT was evident that some celebration was in prog- ress at Mainz, and we soon ascertained that the display was in honor of the Duke of Hesse, who was present for the purpose of reviewing the troops. Hotel Holland was not far from the dock, but we had to await the passing of a monster torch-light procession before we could reach it. The porter, who had charge of our baggage, entertained us by naming some of the numerous organizations and trades represented in the parade, each having some special design in colored lights, besides the line of torches on either side. Music was furnished by many bands, and as the multitude of people filed past with brilliant colored lights, waving banners, and flaming torches, we counted ourselves fortunate to have arrived just in time to witness the dazzling parade. It was past midnight before the city be- came quiet, and once after I had fallen asleep, I remember being awakened by some one loudly sing- ing a German song in the street below. Next morning, after a somewhat hurried break- 32 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES fast, we were driven to the depot where we took leave of Miss D., who was going to Switzerland, and then just had time to catch the train for Leipsic. As far as Frankfort-on-the-Main we had a compart- ment of the car to ourselves, but here we were obliged to share it with a Russian and his wife, who were returning from a summer's outing among the Alps. They piled their baggage — shawls, blankets, valises, an alpenstock, and luncheon-basket — in the racks and upon the floor, and took the seat facing us. The man was powerfully built and had a full reddish beard. His wife was a nice appearing lady, and well educated. Both spoke German fluently and entered into conversation with us. They were astonished when they learned that we were from America, and seemed to think it queer that two girls should go so far to study. To leave Russia they had to obtain permission from the authorities, and if they remained a day longer than the stipulated time, would be heavily fined. Later in the day, a fussy old lady with numerous bundles, bustled into our compartment. As we were already somewhat crowded, we told her there was no room to spare, and the porter gathered up her baggage and tried to find another place for her, but was unsuccessful and soon returned saying that we would have to take the old lady in as it was the best he could do. She was by this time quite excited OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 33 and angry, and gave us a sound scolding, but when the storm had passed proved to be an agreeable com- panion. The ride through central Germany was interesting, and we had, through our car windows, many glimpses of beautiful mountain scenery and of German peasant life. It was the second week in September, and the meadows were again being mowed. The grass was not more than an inch or two in length, but it was carefully raked together, cocked, and conveyed to the barn. The men in the fields were outnumbered by the women, who wore slippers, short gowns, loose sacques, and small shawls tied over their heads. But few horses were to be seen, the grass being either carted away by dogs, or carried by women in baskets on their backs. One place a boy was watching a flock of geese, and in other places there were shep- herds and their flocks. Shepherds, cowherds, and gooseherds are a positive necessity, for there are no fences. There is not nearly so much pasturing as in America, the stock being penned in yards and fed; nor does one see farm-houses scattered over the country, for they are all built together in villages. The train sped on through fertile valleys, past villages, cities, and wooded mountains, with here and there a ruinous castle, about which the swallows flut- tered in great numbers. Towards evening we came to Eisenach, a short distance beyond which we saw 3 34 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES the Wartburg where Luther translated the Bible, and at 6:30 p. m. we had reached Leipsic, our final desti- nation. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 35 CHAPTER VI. LEIPSIC — EXPERIENCES AND SIGHTS OF THE FIRST TWO WEEKS. ON alighting at the depot at Leipsic, we took a a "droschke" (cab) for Hotel de Prusse, where we proposed to stay, until we could find a suitable private boarding place. After a ride of perhaps fif- teen minutes, our carriage stopped before a five-story building with mansard roof The porter came out, assisted us in alighting and took care of our baggage, while we were shown to a nice large room facing upon Rossplatz, and the Promenade — a circular walk taking the place of the old city wall. The continu- ous rumble of the vehicles over the stone-paved streets below was borne up to our ears, and I went to the window for a minute to gaze upon the busy scene, and wondered how much a year's residence abroad would do for us. Then, letting the lace curtains fall back to their places, I sank upon the plush-covered sofa, and looked about the room. The floor was of hard wood, strown with rugs, and there were two single beds standing side by side, a small table with wax candle and matches beside each, a wash-stand 36 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES with two bowls and pitchers, upholstered chairs, and electric lights. At one side was what I at first thought to be a mantel-piece, but which proved to be a white porcelain stove. It was some three feet long, two feet broad, and seven or eight feet high. Presently there was a knock at the door, and a serv- ant with the register entered. We were requested to write our names, place of residence, and occupa- tion, which being done we were again left to our- selves. After a dainty luncheon, we prepared to retire, for we were quite weary after our long journey. A maid with white cap and apron arranged the beds for us, and poured water out into the bowls for our next morning ablution. The sleeping arrangements pleased us, for each could retire, rise, and make her toilet without disturbing the other. On the morning of our first day at Leipsic, we started out to pay a visit to the American consul. We crossed Rossplatz, usually beautiful with its flowers, shrubs, linden, and hawthorne trees, but now gray and sere from the excessive heat and want of rain, and entered the inner or old town, which is a thousand years old. We wandered about the narrow, crooked streets, but the consul's office we failed to find. We then addressed one of the numerous police- men, and from his lengthy directions gained some idea of the location of the office, which had been re- OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 37 moved from the street to which we had been directed. After a little more searching and inquiring we found the place, and were received by the consul's secretary, a short, black-bearded man, who surveyed us with evident interest, and answered all questions, which were not quite clear to his own mind, with a shrug of his shoulders. We were then admitted to the consul, a kind, friendly man from Pittsburg, Pa. In regard to engaging lodging he advised us to have an under- standing with the landlady, that, if atthe end ofa certain number of weeks all did not prove satisfactory, we should be free to go elsewhere. The German law re- quires that notice of leave be given one month in ad- vance, so that in order to get away at the end of a month one must give notice at the beginning, other- wise he will be booked for two. This arrangement, to say the least, has caused many Americans much in- convenience. Provided with a number of addresses, we now set out to seek a "pension" (boarding place). As it was difficult for us to find places in this large foreign city, we called a "droschke," and told the "kutscher" (cab-man) — a corpulent fellow, wearing a high black oilcloth hat, and dark blue suit orna- mented with brass buttons — where we wished to go. We finally decided to take up our abode on Peters- steinweg, and acting upon the consul's advice made arrangements to stay but two weeks. And fortunate it was that we were so cautious ! Our room was 38 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES large, pleasantly located, nicely furnished, and neat looking. The landlady, too, was a handsome and well-dressed woman, but there were many things that did not suit us. During the first days of our stay at the "pension," we had some amusing experiences. My friend and I had seated ourselves at the dinner table when the male boarders came in. There were seven or eight of them — business men and conservatory students — and before we realized what was being done, they all, one after another, were standing be- fore us, making profound bows and saying some- thing which we did not understand. We were quite overcome by so much attention, and not knowing what else to do bowed and remained silent. We after- wards learned that they had introduced themselves, which in Germany is the proper thing for a gentle- man to do when thrown into ladies' society, if there be no one to present him. The lady in turn is ex- pected to express her pleasure and mention her name. One day a friend from America called to see us, and while awaiting our coming was ushered into the parlor, where the landlady sat at one end of the room writing. The gentleman, not having met her, and not knowing the German custom, did not speak to her, at which she was greatly offended. After his departure she came to me and said, "Miss M., 1 OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 39 think your friend is not at all polite, he never intro- duced himself, or even spoke to me." I informed her that it was not customary to do so in America, and that the gentleman was ignorant of their way, at which her anger was somewhat mollified. It seemed odd to us, too, when on the streets, to see the gentlemen bow first to the ladies. The bows — even those exchanged between men — are quite pro- found. Upon sitting down to and rising from dinner, every one says "mahlzeit" (meal-time) or "gesegnete mahlzeit" (blessed meal-time). This meal, usually at 1 130 p. m., is good and substantial, but one gets no bread or butter without specially ordering them. At our first boarding-place, instead of having coffee at 4 p. m. — the usual time — it was served imme- diately after dinner, at a side-table, where the men also smoked. The milk used in the coffee is always heated, which I think is a good idea, especially if one uses much. Supper is eaten about 7:30, and breakfast at almost any of the morning hours. Breakfast consists of nothing but coffee and rolls, with something more substantial later on. We did not like this arrangement, so had the meat or eggs with our rolls and coffee. From our windows, which faced the street, we saw many novel sights. Early in the morning, the musical chime of two small bells announced the approach 40 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES of the kindling-wagon. Like most other German wagons, it had high, sloping sides, somewhat resem- bling an old-fashioned hay-rack. Then there were the coal-wagons, going from door to door, to supply the wants of those who buy only a basketful or two, at a time. Here was a white-aproned butcher, pull- ing his cart; there, a milk-cart, drawn by dogs; here, a baker with snowy cap and apron, carrying upon his head a boardful of hot cakes; there, a bareheaded servant girl, returning from market with her mistress' purchases; here and there, a little boy or girl, hurry- ing home with a shining loaf of rye-bread — which the baker never takes the trouble to wrap up; school- children were trudging along like little soldiers, with their books strapped on their backs — the boys wear- ing different colored caps, signifying to what schools they belong; women, bending under the weight of heavy baskets on their backs; men, hauling loads of beer casks, bottles, furniture, and even coffins; and dogs, pulling loads of plums, small apples, and other things too numerous to mention. Often one sees a woman and a dog drawing the same cart, and some- times the husband walks at the side contentedly smoking. The draught horses, of which there are comparatively few, are large, well-fed animals with broad harness and high collars. They are chiefly used to draw loads too heavy for men, such as large covered drays, resembling box-cars, in which furni- OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 41 ture is packed and shipped, and "eisenbahnwagen" filled with imported fruits and vegetables. The most fashionable stores are on two of the oldest streets in the inner town — Peters and Grim- maischestrassen — which are narrow and crooked, but most interesting. They have clean asphalt pave- ments, which, on evenings or special occasions, are so crowded that a carriage can scarcely make its way through. The shop-windows are beautiful and ever new, as the same display is not allowed to remain more than a few days. One need not hesitate to stop and look at the beautiful and curious things, as that is what everybody does. Just at the entrance of Petersstrasse is the largest dry-goods house in the city, where there is always some new and attractive arrangement of goods and garments of all kinds, which do not differ materially from those in American stores except in price; woolen goods being cheaper, and cotton dearer. We next come to a large shoe-house, where a variety of heavy, thick-soled, and extremely pointed foot-wear is shown. One kind, with broader toes, is made especially for " foreigners." A window in which delicacies for the table are tastily arranged now attracts our attention. There are fresh lobsters, oysters at seventy-five cents a dozen, pickled tongues and cows' udder, smoked meats, a great variety of sausages, pressed goose- 42 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES livers, cheese of all kinds, asparagus a foot long and bleached white, celery bulbs — to be sliced and used in salads — large Italian chestnuts, grapes, oranges, lemons, and a few small green bananas, which are sold at an enormous price, and, indeed, it is difficult to get them at all. I shall not enumerate the many delicate and ex- quisitely wrought things, and the sparkling gems, at the jeweler's — you can see them in any large city store — but simply call attention to the fact that gar- nets and opera-glasses sell at very low prices. Here, however, is a florist's window that I cannot pass. Those beautiful blushing roses, the spicy carnations, the velvety pansies, the sweet lilies-of-the-valley, the dainty forget-me-nots, and all the other beauties — how I do love them, and how they tempt me to buy! And that window there! What American girl could pass by without casting longing glances toward it? Chocolate in every form, shape, and size, filled or solid, as you desire, is there. Think how happy the German maiden must be when she receives some of those large chocolate bricks on her birthday or at Xmas, as she often does! And those cakes, are they not queer? See the different colored icings between the layers, and the red and yellow flowers, and green leaves, made of candied fruits, on the top; and the poppy and caraway-seed and "smear-case" cakes. But come with me now to the china-store. Is not OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 43 that Dresden china elegant? And does it not make you wish for a "fat pocket-book?" There is such a variety, too, among the beautifully designed and artistically decorated dishes, vases, clocks, and stat- uettes. A few steps farther and we are at a linen-store, admiring the pink clover, the blue violets, and other flowers, which deft fingers have wrought upon the table-cloths, doilies, and napkins. Just imagine hav- ing that linen, and those Dresden china dishes for our tables! But there is no time for meditation, it is growing late, and we must hurry on. Now we hear martial music, and soon a detachment of soldiers, headed by a band and mounted officers, is marching past. The Saxon soldiers are small, yet present a warlike appearance in their red-trimmed, dark blue uniforms and polished steel helmets. At first one wonders what all this parading signifies, but soon becomes accustomed to it, as it is of almost daily occurrence, and is for the purpose of drilling the soldiers. Let us take a few hasty glances at those of the passing crowd, whom we have not yet noticed ; happy and contented-looking married people all walking arm-in-arm ; red, blue, green, and white capped uni- versity students — some of whose faces are embellished with scars, court-plaster, and bandages — swinging their canes and walking along with important air; 44 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES flower venders holding out their baskets to the passersby; chamois-skin pedlers calling attention to the bundles of soft yellow skins hanging about their necks; and fine-looking policemen in black uniforms with steel buttons, white gloves, and black helmets surmounted by steel spikes. The first Saturday morning that we were in Leip- sic, we heard an almost continuous rumbling as early as 3 o'clock. Curious to know the cause I arose and looked out of the window, and there hurrying past to market were hundreds of people, some in white- covered wagons, some driving dogs, some pulling carts, and many women carrying large baskets on their backs. The wagons were drawn up on the square near Market Hall, and the dogs with their carts were left at the edge of the pavement about the building. Sometimes the poor animals have to wait there all day, but they are usually quite well cared for, being blanketed in winter and given a mat or board to lie upon. When in the evening the first ones, barking for joy, set out for home, all others join in and make that quarter ring with their glad demonstrations. To visit Market Hall is as good as to attend a fair. There are scores of large fat geese, hares, pigeons, a few wild boars, and sometimes reindeer and bears, besides all kinds of cut meat from the best beef- steak to horse flesh. Near these stalls are flowers, fruit, and vegetables in endless variety. Farther on OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 45 is the fish department, where are all kinds of dried, salt, and fresh fish, and in a tank, live fish and eels. The butter and cheese are found up-stairs, but unless you can endure a great deal, I would advise you not to go the whole length of this department. The butter is sweet and good, but the combination of odors from the different kinds of cheese is over- powering, and fills one with wonder at people's tastes. When I, at last, came to a place of exit, I did not stop to look at the other departments, where there is a full line of household articles and dry-goods, but hurried out to get a breath of fresh air. Sunday morning we went to Thomaskirche. At 9 o'clock — the hour for service — the spacious audience- room and galleries were crowded to the fullest extent. Besides the regular worshipers, there were many who were attracted by the entrancing music rendered by the organ, orchestra, and choir which is composed of boys from the Thomasschule. One little fellow — perhaps thirteen — I especially remember forthe sweet- ness of his voice, and the nicety with which he ren- dered the most difficult solo parts. John Sebastian Bach, to whose memory a small monument is erected near the church, was formerly chorister here, and the music still is said to rank with the best in the world. The slowly sung hymns with their grand amens, and the intonation were novel and interesting to us. During the latter service, the minister, attired in 46 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES gown and ruff, stood facing the handsomely carved oak altar, which is overlaid with gold, and then mounted the small winding stair-way to the richly canopied pulpit, built at the side of one of the mass- ive columns supporting the roof. The sermon was good and preached entirely without notes. After the benediction, the large congregation passed out at the different entrances, dropping the alms into copper receptacles placed at the doors. Outside, the soldiers, who had been in attendance at the services, were forming in line to march back to headquarters. There are too many of them in the city to attend one church, so detachments are marched to various places of worship. Special communion services are often held for them, and one Sunday, as I came out of Thomaskirche, companies were marching up from all sides. Ere long, more than a thousand soldiers were drawn up in line before the church, and after being reviewed by distinguished officers, and a general — conspicuous by his crest of waving white plumes — went into the church to commune. The Evangelical Lutheran is the established church in Germany, and many fine ancient and modern structures belong to this denomination. There are also a Catholic, a German Reformed, an Episcopal, and a Greek church, and a Jewish synagogue. The Americans meet for worship every Sunday evening, at 5 o'clock, in one of the school buildings. Almost OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 47 every denomination is represented, and all highly esteem the pastor, Mr, Edwards, who, by his kind fatherly manner, and good practical sermons, appeals to the best that is in one. We had not been in Leipsic many days, until Wagner's "Flying Dutchman" was given. Miss M., being a musician, was quite anxious to hear the opera, and I, nothing loth, accompanied her. We started for the theater at 6:15 p. m., as most per- formances begin at 6:30. A short walk brought us in sight of the theater, a large stone building adorned with statues, and erected at a cost of $525,- 000. We had soon crossed the square, entered the building, laid aside our wraps — this time without any persuasion — procured programs, and found our seats. The interior is large and roomy, with five ranks of seats; the ceiling is adorned with beautiful paintings, and the curtain and other decorations are fine. It pleased me to see so many old people pres- ent, enjoying the music and acting, and having their little social chats between acts, while the younger people went into the "foyer" (promenade-hall). To walk back and forth in the " foyer," between the mar- ble busts, and under the blazing chandeliers, is a pleasure. Here one sees the people from the other parts of the house, meets his friends, and passes actors and actresses in the throng. The orchestral music, the singing, acting, and 48 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES stage settings all combined to make the " Flying Dutchman" a success, and although far removed from those former scenes, the wild, weird music, and the vivid scenes are with me still. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 49 CHAPTER VII. PLACES OF HISTORICAL INTEREST. AT the end of two weeks, we moved to another "pension" where we hoped to be better con- tented. The first evening — I think it was — a young doctor, a cousin of the hostess, dined with the family. During the course of the meal, I wished to have some more butter, and as the servants were not present, asked the doctor, who sat opposite, if he would be so kind as to pass me the butter. Imagine my surprise when he took the dish, arose, walked around the table to my chair, and handed it to me with a very polite bow. From our new quarters we had a charming view. Below us were about two dozen small private gar- dens, with clean gravelled walks, flower-beds, sum- mer-houses, and shade trees, where on pleasant after- noons families took their coffee. At some distance we could see the fountain in Johanna Park, sporting above the tree-tops, and the perspective was closed by a forest of chimneys, which, although not beauti- ful, were always attractive to me; for they brought me a sense of companionship in that distant land, 4 50 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES and spoke of hundreds of hearts that were beating as warm as ours. Not far from our dwelling stood Pleissenburg, an old fort, a relic of by-gone days, now used as bar- racks. In the yard, which was formerly the moat, soldiers are drilled daily. Passing through the old gate-way, we find ourselves in the inner court, where some cannon taken from the French are kept, and as we look about we are astonished at the immense size of the building. Ah! those massive walls and ancient towers, what experiences have been theirs! Here Luther, and the Romish theologian, Eck, had their well-known dispute. Here waged a bloody contest in the Thirty Years' War, when the fort was badly injured. Here died General Pappenheim, who had been wounded in a hundred different places; and from the large tower could have been witnessed the flight of the great Napoleon and his army, in 1813. Excursions into the country, in Germany, are ren- dered a delight by the excellent roads, which are kept in repair by the Government. They are graded, given a foundation of crushed stone, and bordered with trees — mostly plum and cherry — which not only furnish shade, but the fruit of which is sold to supply part of the necessary funds. One pleasant autumn day, a small part}' of us took the street-cars on Hospitalstrasse, and rode to the end of the line. A short walk out one of the country OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 5 I roads brought us to Napoleonstein, a small monu- ment, marking the place from which Napoleon viewed the battle of Leipsic, in 1813. The spot is overgrown with ivy and surrounded by an iron fence, and the neat monument in the center has upon its top casts of Napoleon's hat and sword. The inscrip- tion is to the effect that God alone rules over all. From the gentle rise in the land here, Napoleon could see for miles, and as he realized that victory was not to be his, what must have been his feelings! Not only were the French defeated, but obliged to flee for their lives. In their flight through the city, Napo- leon ordered that the bridge by which they crossed the Elster river should be destroyed when all had crossed. A mine was laid, but in the hurry and ex- citement it was fired too soon, and many of the French were blown to atoms, and many others left behind, among them the brave Pole, Poniatowski, who, in his attempt to cross the river, was drowned. Another of our excursions was to Gohlis, a suburb of Leipsic, where is the house in which Schiller lived in 1785, and wrote the poem "An die Freude" (To Joy). A small oddly shaped house it is, plastered on the outside, and having a red tiled roof. Going to the door, we rang the bell, but no one came; the house was deserted. We were about to go away dis- appointed, when we thought of ringing at the next house. A rather pretty German girl came to the 52 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES door, and upon our inquiring for a guide, said she would get us one. Another girl soon came with the key, and we entered the queer old house, whose chief attraction is the front room up-stairs, where the poet lived and worked. Mounting the narrow, dark stairs, we came to a small room with bare floor and raftered ceiling, and walls hung with framed pictures and letters of the poet. Above the windows still hang the old, red cotton lambrequins, now faded and torn. A white satin vest carefully folded is kept in a large frame, and a plaster mask in a glass case shows us the poet's features. The other furnishings are a table and some high straight-backed chairs. The ad- joining bed-room is devoid of everything except the bare necessities, and those are of the plainest kind. Amid such surroundings was it that the beautiful poem — now set to music and become one of the popular songs — was written. When walking about a German city, I always en- joyed going through the many queer passages: the arched gate-ways; the thronged arcades, with their lofty glass roofs and showy shop-windows; the long, low, and dimly lighted passages leading through a whole block, and thus saving one the trouble of walking about the square; and the short passage leading through a building to an inner square and thence to another street. One Sunday on our way to Nikolaikirche we explored some of these ways OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 53 and came into the court upon which faces the house, where Goethe lived in 1765, while attending the university, and about which he writes in " Wahrheit und Dichtung." He says that he liked those old courts at Leipsic, and took up his abode at this one — called the "Feuerkugel" — between the old and the new market. He had a couple of nice rooms facing upon the court, which was always lively on account of the passage-way. The man who had a room next to his was a theologian, well educated, but poor, and suffer- ing greatly with his eyes, which he had strained by reading in the late twilight and even in the moon- light, in order to save a little oil. The landlady, too, he speaks of, saying that she was friendly and considerate. As we walked around Nikolaikirche to the en- trance we noticed on one of the walls a horseshoe, about which a number of stories are told. One is that Knight George fought and killed a dragon in the vicinity, and his horse, while bearing him rapidly past the church, lost one of its shoes, which was afterwards fastened to the wall in memory of the knight's brave deed. The most probable explana- tion, however, is that the shoe marks the burial place of a blacksmith, who bequeathed all of his money to the church. Nikolaikirche is quite large and imposing. It was the first church built at Leipsic, but has been en- 54 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES larged and remodeled at different times. It still has the pulpit from which Luther preached at Whit- suntide, in 1539, and also has the honor of being the place where the thanksgiving services were held after the battle of Leipsic, it alone remaining uninjured. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 55 CHAPTER VIII. THE UNIVERSITY. PERHAPS some of you, my dear readers, may some day wish to attend Leipsic University, so I shall tell you where the oldest and chief buildings are to be found. The Augusteum, a large gray build- ing, fronts on Augustusplatz. The Mauricianum faces on Grimmaischestrasse, and the Bornerianum is just back of Universitaetsstrasse. One of the middle buildings was formerly occupied by the Dominican monks, but the last remnant, an arched passage, whose walls were covered with paintings from the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, was pulled down in the fall of '92, for the purpose of making room for a new building. The Convict Building, where transgressing students were brought to their senses by imprisonment and a diet of bread and water, was torn down at the same time. The transgressors had almost covered the walls of the cells with writing, drawings, and poetry, in which they called bread "convict's ham." The university church, called Paulinerkirche, stands near the other buildings. It is over six hundred years old, and was formerly used by the Dominicans, but was dedicated 56 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES to the use of the Protestants, by Martin Luther, in i 545. It has some interesting old pictures and relics of former times, and before the altar is the grave- stone of Tetzel, the seller of "indulgences." The University of Leipsic, almost five hundred years old, has students from many parts of the world. The number in attendance varies from 3,000 to 4,000. Women are not allowed to matriculate, but are tol- erated in a few lectures on history and literature. Wishing to enter some department, if possible, I bought a catalogue, obtained the addresses of some of the eminent professors, and in company with Frau von S., started out to see what could be accom- plished. The first place at which we called, we were conducted by the maid to the professor's apartments, and ushered into a room where two handsome young men, the professor and a friend, had just finished their afternoon coffee, and were having a smoke. The cups, saucers, coffee-urn, and rolls were still on the table, and the professor excused himself repeat- edly for appearing in his smoking-jacket, and for be- ing obliged to receive us in a room scented with tobacco smoke. His friend immediately departed, and we, after introducing ourselves, proceeded to make known the purpose of our visit. The pro- fessor, who was to lecture on "Lessing's Life and Works," said that women had attended his lectures the previous year, but there had been much trouble OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 57 about it, and he was threatened with loss of position, if he did not exclude them. He further said he was sorry that affairs stood thus, and hoped they would change, but at present he could not say whether or no the desired permission could be given; we should, however, know in a week or two. The second and third calls were fruitless, as no one was at home, but the fourth was successful, as far as finding people at home was concerned. We were en- tertained in the drawing-room by the wife of the pro- fessor until that worthy individual — a large, portly- man, and an historian of note — made his appearance. In reply to our inquiries, he said he could not admit women to his lectures, but would be happy to teach them privately — for 15 marks ($3-75) an hour, as I afterwards heard. Thus ended my first attempt to enter a German university. Nothing daunted, how- ever, I started out again a few days later, and met with better success. There is nothing like perse- verance, you know. This time I had interviews with both professors who had been away when I called before, and both were very kind, and said they would be happy to grant my request. Professor L., a man of great learning and ability, was to lecture four times a week on "German European History in the Nineteenth Century," and Dr. W., a "privatdocent," (private tutor) was to give six lectures weekly: two on "Goethe's Dramas," were to be public; and four 58 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES on the " History of German Literature from the Reformation to Klopstock," were to be private. Professors in Germany, as a rule, are not so well paid as those in America, nor is such a position easily obtained. After a student has been graduated from the university, if he wish to become a professor, he must first serve as "privatdocent." During this period he gives both public and private lectures. The public lectures are free to any university student who cares to attend, but those designated as private can only be entered after paying a term fee of seven- teen marks and fifty pfennige ($4,375). Of tms sum the "privatdocent" gets sixteen marks ($4), and the "famulus," (amanuensis) the remainder. The money thus obtained is all that the "privatdocent" receives, so that his salary depends upon the number of pri- vate pupils, and is usually quite small. If his work prove satisfactory, the tutor will in the course of a number of years be elected a professor, and not until then has he a right to the title, be he ever so learned, or have he ever so much experience. Would it not be better, if Americans were more particular in this respect? Here every teacher of a graded school, every instructor of singing, dancing, etc., is called professor. The result is that when any one has fairly earned the title, it amounts to but little. Although it is so difficult for women to gain ad- mittance to any of the higher institutions of learn- OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 59 ing in Germany, it is easy for her to obtain a degree or any of the professional titles. All she has to do is to marry the right man and all is accomplished, for wives have the same titles as their husbands. If she wish the doctor's degree, she must marry a uni- versity graduate, and she will be Frau Doctor; if to be addressed as professor be her desire, let her select a husband from this class, and she will be Frau Pro- fessor, and so on through the whole Hst. She can even aspire to military honors, and obtain the titles Frau Lieutenant, Frau Major, etc. The school-year in Germany ends at Easter, and begins usually in April. The university has two terms, the first beginning about the middle of April, and continuing until the middle of August, the second, lasting from the middle of October until Easter. In order to ascertain when certain lectures would begin, and where they would be held, I had several times to consult the bulletin-boards, in the center of the court upon which one of the university build- ings faces. The first time there were but few students about, but the second time a crowd surrounded the boards, nor would the German students step aside to let me see. They evidently thought that women had no business there, for elsewhere they are exceed- ingly polite. Wherever there were French, English, or American students, I had no trouble, for they at 60 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES once made way for me, but the Germans would not move, so I had to look over their shoulders. Now you are shocked, kind reader, I know you are, but there was no other way out of the dilemma, and I was not going to be defeated at the start. As I was thus endeavoring to read one of the notices, a stu- dent turned about and stared insolently at me, but by paying not the slightest attention to him, and persevering in my attempts to read the bulletin, he was completely repulsed. Finally the opening day arrived, and with inward fear and trembling I crossed the court, entered the building, and traversed the halls, expecting at every turn to meet a frowning janitor, who would order me out. But no such monster appeared, and after climbing two flights of stairs, I found the lecture room. It was still empty, but soon after, to my great delight, two American girls entered. The students now began to come, Germans, French, English, and Americans, and among them some more women, at which we, who had preceded them, felt greatly encouraged. When the "famulus" — who is always one of the students — came in, he ad- justed the lecturer's desk, and then seated himself at the end of the first row of students. Shortly after, Dr. W. entered, mounted the platform, placed his manuscript on the pulpit-like desk before him, and began his lecture, which proved to be interesting OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 6 1 and instructive. The majority of the students, with pen and ink, busily wrote the whole lecture into their note books, which they carry about in black oil- cloth portfolios. It was 10 o'clock a. m. when we left the room at the close of the lecture. Hundreds of men were coming, going, and passing from one room to another, and many were eating buttered rolls, which looked so comical to us that we could scarcely keep from smiling. At 5 p. m. we went to hear Professor L. His room was in the fourth story, and was furnished like the others with extremely uncomfortable, long, narrow benches, in front of which were equally long, narrow desks. Both extended the entire width of the room, allowing only space along the entrance side for an aisle. To reach the end of one of those benches requires time and patience, the space between them being too narrow to admit of walking, so that one has to slide along the best he can. This is too much trouble for the students, who reach their places in short order by walking over the tops of the desks. Each student usually has his own particular place, which he reserves by pasting upon the desk a slip of paper, giving his name, the subject and hour of the lecture, and the professor's name. Our presence was never in any way acknowledged by either students or professors. The former smoked, if they chose, and never thought of offering a lady a seat, if the room 62 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES was crowded; the latter prefaced all their remarks with "Gentlemen," and addressed everything to their sex, only occasionally stealing a glance at the femi- nine portion of the audience. One pleasant morning a number of weeks after the opening of the university, the installation of the rec- tor occurred. The number of students was too large to permit of all attending the exercises, so each "verein" (society) sent four delegates, who rode to the Hall in carriages drawn by two and four horses. And a fine display they made as they rode along! The drivers and footmen were arrayed in elegant liveries, and the occupants of each carriage wore the distinctive colors and caps of their " verein." The colors, tied diagonally across the breast, shone out from under gold and silver embroidered coats, and the many colored caps of as many different styles — some velvet embroidered, others adorned with wav- ing plumes — sat jauntily on the head, while above each carriage floated a rich silk banner, which one of the students held in his white gloved hands. Thou- sands of people were out to see this fine parade, and the square about the Hall was so crowded that it was difficult to make one's way through. The young doctor, of whom I spoke before, acted as guide for our party, and as it was a holiday, asked us to go boating in the afternoon. Our party, consisting of four girls and two boys, OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 63 set out soon after dinner. We first went to the uni- versity meadow at the edge of the city, where the students were playing foot-ball in the presence of many spectators. While we were watching the game, the doctor left us for a short time, but returned shortly with two students, whom he introduced, and who joined our party. The boat was not far away, and we were soon rowing up the Pleisse, which is quite narrow here. One of the girls undertook to steer the boat, but was not very successful as she re- peatedly ran it against the bushy bank, to the great amusement of the people who were on their way to the park beyond. After a time we made better prog- ress, and soon reached the woods through which the river runs. Many other boats were moving placidly along on the dark, cool bosom of the river, which reflected the overarching trees, and the blue sky above, and the beautiful grove itself showed young and old in the full enjoyment of the pleasant autumn day. Nurse-girls were trundling baby carts about, while the older children played in the sand provided for that purpose. Men and women with snowy hair, bright-eyed maidens, soldiers in uniform, students, and foreigners were sauntering up and down the shady lanes, while here and there on the benches lovers sat apart from the crowd, and farther back comfortable carriages rolled along the avenues. The time to return came all too soon. Two of 64 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES the girls were invited out to coffee, so that we had to be back by a certain time, and reversing our boat we rowed under bridges, past restaurants, bath- houses, and willowed banks, and soon reached the boat-house. Our German escorts walked home with us, where they left us at the door with many adieux, and much lifting of hats. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 65 CHAPTER IX. CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR. TO spend the winter holidays in a German city is a great pleasure on account of the extensive preparations made on all sides. Such beautiful rich displays are seen in the shop-windows that they seem to be the work of fairy fingers, and but to ap- proach them is to be enchanted. A week before Christmas, begins the " Weihnachtsmesse," (Xmas- fair) held in Leipsic on the old market-place. Here hundreds of booths, containing all kinds of toys, attract the eye, but the most novel sight is on Augustusplatz. Here, where a few days before was an open square, now stands a fir forest. Winding paths lead through it, and here and there are rude huts. "How came this about? Have the fairies been at work here, too, and with a swing of the magic wand raised this sweet-smelling wood?" Thus might one think, had he not seen how the trans- formation was made. How it came about, I shall tell you. One morning, when on my way to the university, I came to Augustusplatz, many wagons were stand- 5 66 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES ing about with towering loads of Xmas-trees of all sizes, bound with straw so that they would pack more easily. On the square, officials were measuring off ground for the venders, who were busy unload- ing, unwrapping, and setting up the trees, each of which was inserted into a block about one foot square, so that it would stand wherever placed. Thus in a short time a forest was raised in the heart of the city, and as one wandered about it, the trees sent out their sweet odors and whispered of their native hills. But the huts? you say. Oh! they were put up by the venders, who camped out there until after Christmas. A whole week before Christmas, a pleasurable ex- citement was abroad in our "pension." There were secret consultations and expeditions, and mysterious looking packages were carried about. In the kitchen, macaroons and "stolle"were being made — the latter, a Xmas-cake made of light sweetened dough, with English currants, raisins, and almonds mixed in, and baked in loaves. Here and there industrious workers were caught sight of, who, at the approach of un- known footsteps, suddenly ceased operations, and tried to look as unconcerned as possible. Xmas- trees, too, were being conveyed to almost every home — even the lowly hut must have its tree, be it nothing more than a fir branch — and the very atmos- phere was permeated with delicious odors, which, as OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 67 they were wafted to one's nostrils, revived pleasant memories. A number of days before Christmas, a large tree was placed in the saloon, and one evening we all gathered there to trim it. Some furnished nuts with tooth-pick stems, while others covered them with gold and silver tinsel, and still others provided the various ornaments with string or wire. Then came the decorating, which was done amidst much jesting and merry laughter. Finally the work was finished, and our tree stood arrayed in its holiday attire. Christmas-eve there was an excellent supper, to which a number of friends were invited. Among the dishes prepared were carp with Polynesian and butter sauce, potatoes, salad, horse-radish, and punch. At the end of the repast a little silver bell called all into the saloon, where an extension-table laden with gifts stood before the brilliantly illuminated Xmas tree. The packages were all nicely arranged, and as soon as the owners found them, there were pleasant surprises, joyous exclamations, and hearty thanks. The German girls and women accompanied their expressions of gratitude with handshaking and kissing, and the servants stood at the door looking on with beaming countenances, for they also had been well remembered. Articles of many kinds were scattered about in profusion: a large rug, a serving table, aprons, dresses, a wrap, bonnet, artificial 68 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES flowers for dress and hair, a cut glass beer mug, fancy articles, cards, pictures, Xmas-cakes, confectionery, nuts, fruit, and gold and silver pieces. The " Christ- kindchen," not satisfied with what he had placed on the table, left a pretty calendar and some German verses for my friend and me. After the presents had been inspected to every- body's satisfaction, we seated ourselves and passed the remainder of the evening in pleasant converse; and it must be confessed that when the hour for retir- ing came, the supply of candy, nuts, and fruit had grown visibly less, and the punch-bowl also was empty — though the Americans had nothing to do with that part of the program. Christmas-morn was clear and cold, but not a flake of snow was to be seen in the city and the roads were dry and dusty. At 8 o'clock the first church bells were ringing, and at 9 o'clock I was at Thomaskirche, which as usual was crowded. In front of the pulpit stood two Xmas-trees, on which numerous lights twinkled like so many stars, and soon there resounded among the lofty arches the combined tones of the grand organ, orchestra, and boy-choir, filling the whole church with melody so sweet, so grand, so sublime, that it seemed the heavenly host had sud- denly appeared singing, " Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good-will toward men." Indeed I think it was the most soul-inspiring music that I OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 69 have ever heard. The remaining part of the services was also good, and I returned to our "pension" in an exalted frame of mind, but the walk made me hungry, and when an hour or so later we sat down to dinner, I for the time thought more of material things than of spiritual. Such is the frailty of human nature! The next two days were also holidays, for in Ger- many there are usually three legal holidays, where we have but one. The second is almost as closely observed as the first, but the third is not of so much account. A number of us improved the time by making a trip to Berlin, about which I shall tell you later. Sylvesterabend (New Year's eve,) everybody does about as he pleases, and the policemen do not inter- fere. There is usually much drinking and carousing, so that it is wise for ladies to keep indoors. All the Xmas-trees are again illuminated, and almost every one sits up until midnight. At the first stroke of twelve all rush to the windows, throw them open, and shout "Prosit neujahr." New Year's morning I began by. wishing every one a " Happy New Year," but soon learned that it was not customary to do so there — at least verbally. The good wishes are sent through the mail by means of cards, and the mail-carriers have almost more than they can do for several days. When snow comes, it does not last long in the city, 70 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES as men are immediately set to work to shovel it up, and cart it away. How odd it seemed to me to see the horses with sleigh-bells on, when they were hitched to carriages ! and yet that is the case, as soon as a little snow falls. Some say it is done to warn people of the approach of the conveyances, whose sound is deadened by the snow. But how you would laugh to see the sleigh-riders ! Up and down street they go, wrapped in their furs, and seated in the front part of the sleigh, while the driver sits on an elevated seat back of them, and holds the lines over their heads. No matter how much snow may have fallen, the walks in the large parks are always open, and one can go cycling or walking whenever he chooses. Skating, too, is indulged in by many. The band often plays a couple of hours, and then one can see hundreds of people of all sizes and ages, dressed in all manner of costumes, gliding swiftly over the mirrored surface. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 7 1 CHAPTER X. A MEDLEY. WHEN my friend and I started out to do some shopping, we were quite surprised at the arrange- ment of things. Instead of making our purchases at one store, as we were accustomed to do, we were obliged to visit many. If one bought a dress, she procured the goods at one place, and the thread, but- tons, linings, and trimmings at a number of different stores. Indeed it was very inconvenient, for we did not know at first where the different articles were to be found. Gloves are to be bought at one store ; underclothing and stockings at another ; fans and parasols at another; furs at another, etc., etc. So it is with articles for the table. Coffee and sugar are sold at one place; canned goods at another; butter and eggs at another; fruit and vegetables at another; and so on ad infinitum. Elevators, too, are lacking in the majority of the buildings, so that it is climb, climb, everywhere. One becomes accustomed to it after a time, but at first it is extremely fatiguing. One evening the children of our hostess invited me to accompany them to a circus. It was held in one part of Crystal Palace, an immense building with 72 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES numerous halls for entertainments. On entering the hall, I was struck with its vast size. It somewhat resembles the Coliseum, but is all under roof. In the center is a large ring, and surrounding it boxes, and rows of seats rising one above the other. Its capacity is 4,000. An immense chandelier depends from the center of the dome-shaped ceiling, which is ornamented with paintings of beautiful maidens and cherubs representing the twelve months of the year. There were two clowns whose business it was to entertain the spectators between the different parts of the program, but their jokes were heavy and dull. It was really amusing, though, to think that many considered them quite witty. There was some good riding and acting, but the fifty trained horses were most interesting. They ran into the ring and took their places as though they thought it fine fun. Three platforms of different sizes, one placed upon the other, stood in the center. Upon the highest stood the trainer; just below him were four coal-black horses; below these, six others; in the ring about them, many of different sizes and colors; and on the surrounding raised track, a number of beautiful ponies. All were in motion; those on the platforms going in different directions, and those in the ring cutting fancy figures, while the ponies cantered about them all. What was most wonderful, though, was the dancing. Three or four horses came in at dif- OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 73 ferent times, and danced waltzes, polkas, and quick- steps. When they were applauded, they kneeled and bowed. There was also a clever bear that rode about the ring, standing on its hind feet, jumped through paper- covered hoops, and wrestled with a man. During the latter part of the performance, the ring was transformed into a lake bordered with water- lilies and different colored electric lights. Gaily attired knights and ladies rowed about, played on guitars and sang, and beautiful fairies flitted across a bridge. I have spoken of the view which we had from our windows, but there were other sights of which I have not yet told you. One day — quite a warm one, too — upon looking out I saw three chickens hanging out- side of a neighboring window, and frequently after that we noticed hares, geese, and sausages dangling about, and had many a hearty laugh about them. Often they hung out a week before they were used, and judging from their appearance at the end of that time, we thought we would not care to eat any of the meat. Our hostess fortunately did not let the game hang out longer than a day. Sundays and on special occasions we usually had a hare or goose roast. Long, narrow strips of bacon were drawn through the flesh of the hare, which was then placed in the oven, and basted with butter or 74 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES cream. Prepared thus, they are excellent. Geese before being roasted were stuffed with chestnuts, or apples and potatoes. Fish were usually boiled with their heads on, and eaten with a flour dressing flavored with lemon and onions, or butter-sauce plain or mixed with mustard. Eels were served like fish, or were jellied. Pickled cow's udder was boiled and sliced cold, or fried. Among the other dishes prepared were potato-dumplings dressed with prunes and dried apples, ripe peas cooked until soft, and then put through a sieve and dressed with ham gravy. Of soups there were: chocolate; pumpkin flavored with orange; a sweetened flour soup con- taining raisins and English currants; beer, and wine soup, and many other kinds. During the winter there were receptions every Thursday evening at our "pension," to which we were at liberty to invite any of our friends. The majority of those who came could speak nothing but German, which was quite a boon to us who wished to learn the language. By way of entertainment we had games, vocal and instrumental music, recitations, pantomimes, and private theatricals, after which beer and cake, and — on our account — tea and pudding were served. One thing noticeable at a gathering of this kind is the stiff uprightness of those seated. The book of German etiquette states that no one must lean back in his chair in company, as only impolite OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 75 people and Americans do that. The leave-taking is quite ceremonious. The gentlemen place themselves directly in front of each lady, and making a profound bow, say "Good night." If the parties are well ac- quainted there is much hand-shaking, and many ex- changes of good wishes. Coffees are much in vogue, and we spent some pleasant afternoons in attendance at them. The re- freshments are light, consisting of coffee, bread and butter, jelly, preserves, different kinds of cake, and wine. They begin at 4 or 4:30 o'clock and last two or three hours. A pleasant evening party to which I was invited was given by Dr. R. Among the sixteen guests present were representatives of Scotland, Ireland, Germany, and America. When all had arrived, and the men had paid their respects to the hostess — some kissing her hand — we were served with cake and tea, in the parlor. After some half hour spent in conver- sation, supper was announced and we were ushered into the dining-room, where a table laden with fruits, nuts, wine, and flowers greeted our eyes. Miss S., a girl from Connecticut, and I were delighted, be- cause at each of our plates were two bottles of min- eral water instead of wine — Dr. R. knew that we were W. C. T. U.'s. During the excellent repast that followed there was much drinking to each other's health, and when Frau Dr. R. gave a toast, all arose 76 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES to their feet, clinked glasses and drank. Before the close of the banquet, Miss S., at the opposite end of the table, held up a glass of mineral water and said, "Miss M., 'prosit'," (here's to your health), to which I responded to the great amusement of our German friends. Upon arising from the table, some ten minutes were passed in shaking hands, first with the host and hostess, and then with everybody else, and saying "mahlzeit" to each one. Then the women retired to the parlor, leaving the men to finish their wine and have a smoke. The appearance of the men upon the scene later, was the signal for games to begin, and such a merry time did we have that it grew quite late ere we were aware of it. While we were at Frau von S.'s, one of her daugh- ters was confirmed, and we attended part of the ser- vices, which lasted about three hours. The church was prettily decorated with palms, evergreens, and flowers, and the scene was brightened by the presence of many officers in full uniform. The class was very large, and all its members wore black. After returning home there was a sumptuous feast, and before its close friends began to arrive with presents and congratulations, and kept coming until the young lady was quite overwhelmed with the good will of her friends. Those who were not able to OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. ; 7 come in person sent cards or messengers. When all had departed, the young lady found herself the possessor of some valuable jewelry, kid gloves, prayer- books, flowering plants, and bouquets. If I have tired the reader with these details, I beg his pardon, as I have entered into them thinking that they might be of interest to some. What I now have to offer is an account of some excellent concerts, which it was my privilege to attend. Leipsic is an exceedingly musical place, and has numbered among its inhabitants many musicians of note, among whom are Wagner, Mendelssohn, Bach and Carl Reinecke. The latter, now an old white- haired man, still resides there, and is leader of the Gewandhaus orchestra, which has some seventy mem- bers, and during the winter, together with famous violinists, pianists, and singers, gives those weekly concerts, now world-renowned. The rate of admis- sion to these musical feasts is high, but tickets for fifty cents can be had for the final rehearsals, to which conservatory students are admitted free, and univer- sity students for half price. It was my good fortune to see Carl Reinecke both as performer and orchestral leader. He is a most delightful pianist, and with his peculiar touch — soft, caressing, firm, but never harsh — calls forth from the instrument such sweet tones as are seldom heard. As a musical conductor he is excellent, for he so 78 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES thoroughly enters into the spirit of the compositions, that his every gesture and movement are interpre- tations. While thus actively engaged, his tall, slender body moves rhythmically to and fro, and his long white hair, which persists in falling into his face, keeps his left hand partly employed. One day we went to hear the great Spanish violin- ist, Sarasate. The large audience waited expectantly until he appeared, and then paid the most profound attention. He is a man of medium height, with black hair and mustache sprinkled with gray, a round face, and eyes that sparkle merrily at times. He is still fine looking, and must, in his younger days, have been handsome. His playing was wonderfully sweet and brilliant, and when the first selection was ended a storm of applause followed. Four or five en- cores were responded to before the crowd would disperse. Sarasate was very good natured about it, and smiled at the enthusiasm of his hearers. Careno and D'Albert, one evening, gave a concert in Crystal Palace. A number of D' Albert's composi- tions were rendered by the orchestra under the com- poser's direction, and several were executed on the piano by himself. His playing is of the stormy kind, and was not so well liked as that of his wife, Careno. She is a dark-eyed Spaniard, and would be pretty were it not for her embonpoint. She lias wonderful strength, and is an admirable performer. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 79 Friday evening, December 16th, 1892, a concert was given at the old Gewandhaus, in honor of Rubin- stein, who was visiting in the city. Forty-eight years before he had played in the same hall as a boy of twelve, and it was known that he would be present at the anniversary, and hoped that at the close of the entertainment, he would favor the audience with a few selections. The house was crowded to its fullest extent, and all present listened attentively to the program, which consisted of Rubinstein numbers. At the close there was loud and continuous applause. The great musician arose and bowed repeatedly, and finally seeing that the multitude was not to be quieted, seated himself at the piano and played some twenty minutes. The people were wild with en- thusiasm, and when the music ceased, they stood on the seats, waved their handkerchiefs, shouted, clap- ped and stamped. Rubinstein arose from the piano, bowed, and amused all by making an impatient gest- ure for the audience to stop the deafening noise. During the second week of March, '93, King Al- bert of Saxony and his queen visited Leipsic. They were received with many demonstrations of loyalty, and a program for their entertainment was prepared. One day was set aside to visit different departments of the university, and my friend and I thought we would try to visit one of the lectures at which the king was to be present. We assumed a cool ex- 80 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES terior, although we were anything but calm, in- wardly. A liveried official, who stood at the door, eyed us curiously as we passed, and when we stop- ped a moment on the stairs to read the notice tell- ing in what room the lecture was to be held, came rushing in and said we must not stand there. We hurried on up the stairs and lo! there was the janitor at the top. Thinking we would make the best of a bad matter, we proceeded as unconcernedly as pos- sible, and were surprised, when instead of refusing admittance, he politely showed us which door to enter. Another part of the royal program was a gala night at the theater. Of course, everybody wanted to go, and there was a great rush for tickets. An hour before the sale began people were forming in line outside the doors, and when they opened, a policeman stood inside to insure orderly conduct. Only four persons were allowed to walk side by side, and but a certain number were permitted to be in the room at a time. Everyone was attired in his best that evening, and as we arrived somewhat early, we amused ourselves by watching the people enter. There were officers in gay uniforms, citizens in full dress, and ladies in evening costume. The belle of the evening was at- tired in a heliotrope silk, cut low at the neck, with short sleeves, long train, ami decorations of Brussels OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 8 1 lace. Just before the opening of the performance, the royal party took its place at the left of the stage. The king, a white-haired old man, large featured, somewhat bald, and rather portly, wore a dark blue uniform; the queen, a good-looking, but quite fleshy lady, was dressed in white satin. On her head was a silver crown, and in one of her hands, a bouquet of white lilies. The officers and ladies in attendance were stylish and distinguished looking. When all were seated the chief manager of the theater raised the cry of "Der Koenig lebe hoch," (long live the king,) in which all joined, repeating the last word, "hoch" three times. The honored guests then turned their attention to the opera, in which they seemed interested. They did not go into the " foyer" during the intervals between acts, but quietly took their departure at the close of the performance. Before leaving Leipsic it was my privilege and pleasure to see both the great German tragedy, " Faust," and to visit Auerbach's Keller, where Goethe first conceived the idea of writing the play, and where two of its scenes are laid. Auerbach's Keller is the oldest and most famous of all German wine-cellars. The house under which it is, was built after the Leipsic conflagration in 1420, when about four hundred wooden dwellings with straw roofs were burned. The place is named after Luther's friend and admirer, Dr. Heinrich Stromer, 6 82 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES who, according to the custom of the times, went by the name of his birthplace, Auerbach. A party of four of us one morning visited this restaurant, which is just beyond the old market- place on Grimmaischestrasse. Descending eight steps we found ourselves in the upper cellar, a medium sized room, with vaulted ceiling, and walls adorned with old paintings, in which the magician Faust is the central figure, and which time has almost oblit- erated. At several of the small tables men and women were sitting, eating and drinking. Ten steps more and we were in the lower cellar, where we seated ourselves at one of the tables and ordered drinks, two taking wine and my friend and I, mineral water. We sat directly in front of the cask on which Faust is said to have ridden out of the cellar. It is large, dark colored, and oval shaped, with carved head. The brightly burning gas-jets plainly showed, on the arched ceiling, the painted scenes from "Faust." The pictures in the upper room are very old, and are the ones which inspired in Goethe the idea of writing that greatest of German tragedies; those in the lower room are from the play itself, and consequently, much more modern. Before leaving, I asked the waiter to show us the underground passages leading from this place. He replied that they were no longer shown to sight- seers. I entreated him, but he remained firm. Re- OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 83 solved to make a final effort, I offered him a fee, if he would comply with our request. Then he showed signs of yielding, and said he would ask the proprie- tor. Returning shortly, he said that we should fol- low him, and taking up a plank in the floor, and opening a door in the wall, with candle in hand he led the way. We entered a dark passage, which, as we advanced, grew narrower and lower, so that we were compelled to assume a stooping posture. The atmosphere was damp and cold, and from the stone walls trickled drops of water. After proceeding thus for some time, we suddenly emerged into a chamber, the so-called Hexenkueche (Witch's Kitchen.) At one side is a small fire-place, and scattered about are the stone utensils in which the old witch is said to have brewed the potion quaffed by Faust. There are two of these under-ground ways, lead- ing to Paulinerkirche and Pleissenburg, respectively. They are supposed to have been built about 1430, by the monks, so that they could go unobserved from the monasteries to the wine-cellar. One can- not go the entire length now as sewers bar the passage. On our way back, having now become accustomed to the darkness, we noticed what we had not seen before — thousands of bottles of wine stored all about us. The cellar once more reached, our guide kindly showed us some old relics, among them, a lock of Goethe's hair and a letter written by him. 84 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES CHAPTER XI. THE GREAT FAIR. LEIPSIC yearly has two great fairs, one at Easter, and one in the autumn. In the fall of '92 it was omitted on account of the prevalence of cholera, but the next spring it was held as usual. A number of days before the opening, booths began to be erected on all the public squares, and along both sides of the wider streets, just leaving space for teams to pass through. Rooms were rented in busi- ness blocks along the principal streets, and attention called to the wares by hundreds of gay colored signs, which decked the buildings from basement to roof. Around the promenade stood large wagon-loads of crockery, dishes, and vases, and on the ground the same in endless confusion — dishes, dishes, dishes, enough to stock hundreds of stores. People now began to come from all parts of Europe and many other countries, until the streets were so crowded that one could scarcely make his way through. The first seven days we could buy nothing as it was wholesale week, but we were allowed to look at the things, and the second and third weeks we could purchase all we wished. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 85 There is scarcely anything one can think of that cannot be bought there — eatables, clothing, jewelry, household furniture and decorations, and playthings. One evening, on our way to the theater, we stopped and looked at the crockery, and found among it all sizes and designs of quaint beer-mugs, and the most daintily shaped majolica vases. On the opposite side of the street was a flying-circus, which as it bore its passengers round and round in rocking sail-boats, played lively airs. Just beyond was an animal show, a tent of "wonders," a mirror labyrinth, and an anatomical display in wax-works. As we made our way through the crowd we saw in the different booths: candies, cakes, toy-balloons, feather whirligigs, mus- lin, table-cloths, dress-goods, pipes, statuettes, etc. We made almost daily visits to the "messe" (fair), searching out the pretty things, making a few pur- chases, and wishing for the means to buy more. Everywhere there were jewels, and among them a profusion of garnet and amber ornaments. On the old market place was an Italian booth where charm- ing articles of branched coral were for sale, and be- yond, another displaying exquisite inlaid work in wood. In Auerbach's Hof costly bronzes, orna- mental work in silver, and polished brass utensils delighted the eye. Just in front of the theater on Augustusplatz the finest glassware was to be found — water-sets, vases, scent-bottles, etc. — of such delicate 86 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES coloring, and with such rich gold ornamentations that it is simply indescribable. Near the center of the square a polite Swiss presided over his artistic carvings. There were easels, frames, glove-boxes, ink- stands, and models of Swiss cottages. It was amus- ing to hear the foreigners speak German. Each had a different pronunciation and way of expressing himself. During the "messe" we found Sunday the liveliest day of the week. All stores and places of amuse- ment were open, and hundreds of people from the surrounding villages and cities were present to have a "good time." When we went to church it seemed as though we must have mistaken the day. Dance- music floated on the air as the "merry-go-rounds" with their gay occupants spun around; people were crowding into the shows; sales were being made; children carried toy-balloons; young men and their sweet-hearts, blissfully happy, strolled about, and tired sight-seers ate luncheons, or rested on benches in the shade. Dr. R. was always very kind to his pupils, and one day invited a party of us to visit the "messe" with him. He first conducted us to a large '"merry-go- round," with an undulating track, and said we must take a ride. Resistance was of no avail, and we were all shortly spinning round and round, and laughing at Frau Dr. R., who was very much afraid whenever the car was on the down grade. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 87 Next the Doctor wished us to visit the flea-circus, but a part of our crowd were fearful lest some of the performers might escape and attack them. The crowd surged in and out while we stood near the tent-door debating. The door-keeper assured us that there was not the slightest danger of any of the performers escaping, and at last, prejudice being over- come, we entered. The chief actors had tiny gold bands about their necks, to which small chains were attached. This we distinctly saw through a micro- scope. The race fleas were hitched to a variety of the most cunning little vehicles, and ran well; the dancers, attired in gay little dresses, waltzed in true German style; the combatants wielded their small pikes gracefully; and the climbers and tight-rope walkers acquitted themselves creditably. We were next conducted to another part of the city, where Dr. R. invited us to ride in the "sail-boat- flying-circus," but only one was willing to make the venture. While she and the doctor were sailing around, the remainder of the party stood by watch- ing and making sport of them, whenever they passed. It was growing late in the day, and after a little more sight-seeing, we had luncheon at a restaurant. The Doctor, having another engagement, now ex- cused himself and left us in his wife's care, and very admirably did she perform her part. We spent the 88 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES remainder of the day in visiting- an animal show, in which trained monkeys, dogs, and ponies were the performers. The animals were extremely clever, and we were well entertained. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 89 CHAPTER XII. SPRING EXCURSIONS. THE spring of '93 in Germany was an unusually early and pleasant one, and we improved the time by making frequent excursions into the country. A party of five, one day, visited Monarchenhuegel, where the three allied monarchs, Frederick William III. of Prussia, Alexander I. of Russia, and Francis I. of Austria tarried during the battle of Leipsic. The hill is a couple of miles beyond the place where Na- poleon stood, and is more elevated. A neat marble monument, and a small shrine, containing cannon-balls and the bones of soldiers and horses found in the neighboring fields, are here; also a museum, where uniforms, weapons, coins, and letters of generals of that time can be found. Another interesting walk was to the village of Doelitz, where stands an old castle with battered walls. Our way led through a number of villages and verdant meadows, and for a time along the Pleisse. The tranquilly flowing river, bordered with feathery willows and pretty villas in the midst of at- tractive gardens, and an old mill-pond, with its clucks, were delightfully picturesque. At the end of, per- 90 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES haps, two hours, we reached our destination, and were looking at the half-buried cannon-balls and the bullet holes in the walls of the castle, about which was waged one of the hottest fights of 1813, when two peasant women, returning from their day's work in the field, passed us. They were very coarsely clad, and walked with a stiff, awkward gait that told of many hardships endured. The parks which surround the city were favorite resorts of ours. Rosenthal, a natural forest contain- ing hundreds of acres, pleased me most. In the part near the city there are an open meadow and arti- ficial lake, and the walks are bordered with beautiful shrubbery, through which one occasionally catches a glimpse of marble statues. Farther on the broad avenues and well-kept paths lead through the native wood, where deer skip about, nightingales sing, and wild flowers nod in the breeze. In the heart of this park stands an ancient oak, under which, long ago one of the kings breakfasted, and where the present king of Saxony sometimes lunches when out hunt- ing. Scheibenholz, too, is a pretty park, and we used often to go walking there. One day, a friend and I were strolling along one of the paths leading along the Pleisse, when we noticed that the ground in places was almost covered with pretty star-shaped flowers. Now, if there is anything I love, it is a OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 91 flower, and I determined to pluck a bouquet. I thought, "How beautiful they will look in my room ! and I shall wear a bunch of them to-night on my bosom." My friend also thought that she would like to have some; so we pulled off our gloves, carefully made our way through the undergrowth to the spots where the flowers grew in greatest profusion. At last, we had as many as we could conveniently carry, and while drawing on my gloves I asked my friend to hold my bouquet. She took it, but ere I was ready to carry it again, I detected a disagreeable odor on my hands, and found to my disappointment that the starry flowers had been nourished by garlic. We threw them away and resumed our walk, and farther on saw several bunches of garlic-flowers lying at the side of the path. Evidently we had not been the only ones deceived. The last day that I was at Leipsic, was Sunday, and the 450th anniversary of the Archers' Club. Great preparations had been made, and a monstrous street procession was the result, representing ancient cos- tumes, buildings, the various trades and industries. Dozens of bands furnished music, and the streets were blocked with people. Every box, carriage, window, balcony, and even the house roofs were occupied. After the parade, the crowd went to the Archers' club house, in the suburbs, where there were music and dancing. 92 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES CHAPTER XIII. BERLIN. I HAVE promised you, kind reader, an account of our trip to the capital of the empire, whither we went the day after Christmas. Our crowd was com- posed of four girls — two from New Zealand, one from England, and myself — and it was with much joyous anticipation that we turned our faces northward. The train left Leipsic at 8:40 a. m., and in less than three hours we had reached our destination. So in- tensely cold was it that it seemed we must be some- where in the vicinity of the North Pole. We had previously selected our hotel, so that there was no time wasted, and fifteen or twenty minutes after alighting from the train our cab stopped at 27 Moh- renstrasse. This hotel, which was under the man- agement of the Y. M, C. A., was satisfactory in every way, and within a ten-minute walk of the principal attractions. Notwithstanding the severity of the weather, we visited the Zoological Garden after dinner. The wax- led along the Thiergarten, a large, beautiful park, formerly a hunting-ground. As our carriage rolled on, we watched with interest the gleaming statues OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 93 among the trees, rivaling the snow in their whiteness; the elegant equipages containing gaily uniformed officers, and richly dressed ladies and gentlemen; and the handsome villas opposite the park. After a half hour's ride we reached the "Zoo," and soon were traversing its snowy paths. We came upon a party of skaters, whom we watched for some time and then hurried on. A number of the hardier animals were in sheds, but the majority were quartered in large heated buildings, in which there were more sight- seers than usual, on account of its being the Holidays. The center of attraction was the lion's lodge, where a family of cubs gamboled about like so many kit- tens. When they grew tired of playing together, they tried to catch the old lion's tail, and to bite her ears, but she was ill-natured because of her imprison- ment, and boxed their ears. After several hours spent in looking at the ani- mals, among which there were some rare specimens, we went to the aquarium on " Unter den Linden." Near the entrance were the snakes in glass compart- ments strown with sand, and furnished with running water. Reptiles of many kinds and sizes were here in different positions. One small one was drinking; a large boa-constrictor was curled up asleep, and others were crawling about. Next we came to the birds, strange monkeys, tortoises, and crocodiles, and then found ourselves in what seemed an under-ground 94 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES cave with dark, overhanging rocks, aud numerous apertures in the sides, looking into river and sea, in whose sunlit waters members of the finny tribe sported about, and different marine animals were seen. There were pike, salmon, trout, cat-fish, mackerel, herring, sea-horses, devil, jelly, and star-fish, horseshoe-crabs, lobsters, different kinds of coral, and many other interesting sea-animals. From this place we emerged into a blue grotto, fitted up as a restaurant. It was now nearly supper-time, and we returned to our hotel to dine. We wished to attend one of Schil- ler's plays that evening, but the house was so crowded no tickets could be obtained, so we remained at our rooms and retired early, as we were quite fatigued. The next morning, Tuesday, we set out for the Royal Palace, and were soon on the famous street, Unter den Linden, which in summer, when the foli- age is out, must be beautiful, but now was noticeable only for its width and the manner in which it is laid out. In the center a space shaded by four rows of linden trees is reserved as a kind of park for the pub- lic, and on either side are a drive-way and side-walk. All along are fashionable shops, restaurants, and ho- tels, and farther on the palaces of Wilhelm I. and Empress Frederick, the University, Royal Opera House, and Armor)'. Next is the Schlossbruecke (Palace Bridge) across the Spree, and we stopped to admire the beauty of the white marble statues adorn- OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 95 ing it. There are eight of them, placed upon granite pedestals, and representing the different stages of a warrior's career. Then crossing a square, on which there was still a number of Xmas-booths, we found ourselves before the palace. A large inner court had to be traversed to reach the visitors' entrance, where a dignified official opened the door for us, and bade us be seated in the hall. The exterior of the royal residence had been rather disappointing, but the glimpse of the interior that we now had was grand. Shortly the guide appeared and led us up an in- clined way to the second story. On entering the first room we were all required to put on heavy felt slippers over our shoes, so that the polished floors would not be marred. This afforded us much amuse- ment, as we could not raise our feet, but were obliged to slide them along. Thus we went through the palace! and you may imagine how comical we looked. Of the seven hundred rooms in the palace, only the state apartments are shown to the public. They are all grand and contain many rich treasures, and as we passed from one to another, I wondered how it would seem to be a queen, and live amid such sur- roundings. But there was something cold and chill- ing about the very elegance, and it seemed as though one would tire of it all after a time. With a few ex- ceptions all that remains to me now of those royal g6 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES apartments is a confused idea of polished floors, paneled and carved oak, stucco-work, ceilings from which beautiful beings looked down upon us, walls covered with silk damask or painted by eminent artists, sculptured mantel-pieces, costly ornaments, silk upholstered furniture, and crystal chandeliers. The Throne Room excels all others in the richness of its decorations. The ceiling is exquisitely painted, the walls adorned with relief forms, and the main door handsomely carved. The immense chandelier is of rock crystal, and the throne-chairs of silver. Above the throne hangs a large silver shield, and op- posite, on a buffet, are placed gold and silver plates, drinking-cups, candle-sticks, etc. In front of one of the windows stands a high silver column, which was presented to Wilhelm I. by the soldiers, on the 6oth anniversary of his entering the army. The Picture Gallery — a long, narrow room — con- tains portraits of royal personages and pictures of great historical events, and is used as a dining-room on state occasions. The White Room is the largest apartment, and is used during great festivities. It is lighted with 2,600 tapers, is adorned with white marble statues and busts, and is strikingly beautiful. When we had made the rounds of the palace, we were quite weary, but did not stop to rest, as our time was limited, and we wished to see as much as OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 97 possible. We next directed our steps to the Ruhm- eshalle (Armory), a grand building adorned with numerous sandstone figures. In the interior are mosaic floors, marble stair-cases, statues, bronze busts of famous men, and the finest mural paintings. In the different rooms are to be seen armor, daggers, swords, guns, cannons, mortars, shells, etc., of dif- ferent countries and ages. Among them richly jew- eled weapons, formerly the property of princes, kings, and generals, attract the attention by their beauty and great value. Evening came, bringing with it many attractions. We chose to attend " Zauberfloete" (Magic Flute), at the Royal Opera House. The crowd was large, but the Emperor and family were not present. This disappointment, however, was compensated by the excellent singing and acting, and the sweet music. Between acts we went into the "foyer," where we had the opportunity of seeing many of the officers and prominent men of Berlin. The people of this city, as a rule, are fine looking, fashionable, and of larger stature than the Saxons. Wednesday morning, a great pleasure was in store for us in the way of a visit to Kaiser Wilhelm the First's palace. We were shown into a small room, rich in bronzes and carving, where we were obliged to wait until a party should be formed. A number of others arrived, and at the end of a quarter of an 7 98 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES hour, the guide appeared with his bunch of keys. The first thing of note that struck us with its beauty- was the broad, white marble stair-case, on whose first landing stand two magnificent statues and two gold chairs. There is a home-like air about this palace that is lacking in the others. One reason, I presume, is that the floors are carpeted. This was done to re- move the danger of the old emperor and empress' slipping on the smooth, polished wood. On the gr#und-floor, facing upon Unter den Linden, is the study. Here the "greise Kaiser" used to work, and ofttimes would leave his desk, go to the window — the Historical Window — and greet his people. Every- thing remains as left by him. On the desk and tables are thousands of dollars' worth of costly pres- ents given by friends on different occasions. Each of us in turn stood at the "Historical Window," and as I tarried there the "Spirit of the Past" came upon me, and I seemed to see the kindly face of the departed emperor, who, with words of affection, was addressing " his children." But the part)- was mov- ing on and I was aroused from my reverie. Our guide, an extremely kind and obliging man, had for years been in the service of the old " kaiser," and seemed never to be so happy as when relating some incident concerning his beloved master. As- cending the marble stairs we were conducted through OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 99 apartment after apartment, each furnished in its own peculiar way and having its own treasures. In one room there were large vases and a score of orna- mental things of lapis lazuli— a beautiful blue stone worth its weight in gold. When we entered the ball-room under the dome, the "fuehrer" said we should take a certain position in the apart- ment and listen. Standing opposite, he called out "kaiser," and one could have imagined other voices were mocking, for the name was echoed and re- echoed, at first loudly, then softer and softer, until it died away. "Now," said he, "I am going to call out again, and you can count the echoes." We did so, and ascertained that the word was repeated twenty- five times. A trip to Charlottenburg had been planned for the afternoon. In order to get a car, we were obliged to walk some distance and pass through the Bran- denburger Thor — a large gate at one end of Unter den Linden — supported by twelve Doric columns and surmounted by a statue of Victory, which was carried to Paris by Napoleon in 1807, and brought back seven years later by the Prussians. As we were going through one of the passages for pedes- trians, a carriage rumbled through the central drive- way, which is reserved for the use of the royal fam- ily. One of the girls ran back to see if she could catch a glimpse of the royal personages, but as the IOO FOREIGN EXPERIENCES carriage was closed she could see only the outlines of a man and woman. Had the weather been warm, we would have had a delightful view from the top of the car, as our course lay through the center of the Thiergarten; but as it was cold we chose to remain inside. When we reached Charlottenburg, we had no difficulty in finding the palace, for the extensive grounds and statue-marked entrance at once attracted our atten- tion. Our guide, this time, was a woman — perhaps, forty years of age, tall, slender, with black hair and eyes — who took much pride in explaining every- thing about the palace. This royal residence, which received its name from Queen Charlotte, wife of Frederick I., is not at present occupied. Of the dozens of rooms shown us, were three that pleased me especially. The mural decorations of the first are alternate panels of red silk tapestry and mirrors, while the walls of the second are covered with rare old china, held in place by wire frames. The third (the Garden Room) has a circular glass front, which in summer opens upon a green lawn, and from shady nooks graceful marble figures look forth to charm the eye. In this delightful arbor-like room the la- mented Emperor Frederick III. passed a part of his latter days. From the chapel we entered the garden, and strolled down a drive-way bordered on one side by busts OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. IOI of eminent men, and after some minutes reached an avenue running at right angles. Turning our faces in this direction, a charming vista stretched before us. On either side were tall, stately evergreen trees with ivy-wound trunks, and closing the prospect in the distance, the white marble mausoleum. When we had reached the tomb, and were mounting the steps, a liveried official came to act as guide. Within, a soft, blue light lay over all, and gave an added charm to the interior. There is a quiet grandeur about the place that is very impressive, and when we stood before the reclining marble figures of Kaiser Wilhelm the First's father and mother, so exquisitely carved by Rauch, we were transported. Those white forms, especially that of Queen Louisa, about which a thin drapery clings, seem more than marble. The sarcophagi of the late emperor and his wife — at that time not finished — were sculptured by the same masterly hand. In the rear of the building stands an altar, and on either side a sculptured marble candelabrum representing the three Graces and the Hours. Divine services are held here on the days on which the spirits of the silent occupants took their flight. Returned to our hotel, we had a dainty supper, and then had the pleasure of hearing Frau Rosa Sucher in "Tannhaeuser " at the Royal Opera House. The whole opera was well rendered, but 102 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES the sublime "Evening Star" was sweetest of all. Ere retiring, we wished to have some hot lemon- ade, and were greatly amused at the puzzled ex- pression on the head waiter's face when he took the order. Evidently he had never heard of such a drink before. "Hot lemonade!" said he. "How is it prepared? Is it first made and then boiled ?" We informed him of the mode of its preparation, and he appeared relieved. Thursday morning, we visited the Old Museum, a truly imposing edifice opposite the Royal Palace, and connected with the New Museum by a colonnade. Our time and attention were given to the art depart- ment, in which are many fine pictures by the old masters. We took advantage of the few remaining hours to do some shopping. The stores along the principal streets were elegant; but those that interested us most were found in a busy arcade. We had been misinformed about the leaving-time of our train, and so had to wait several hours at the station. We entered one of the restaurants, which take the place of waiting-rooms, and passed the time philosophically by studying the different characters about us. Nearly all the tables were occupied by travelers, passing the time as is usual in Germany — chatting, drinking, smoking. Whenever a train was announced, there was a gathering together of bundles OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 103 and hurrying out; but the vacated seats were soon taken by new-comers, and so the time passed until our train arrived. We were so fortunate as to have a compartment alone, and wrapping ourselves in our furs, lay back among the cushions, resting, until the "schaffner" called out, "Leipsic." 104 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES CHAPTER XIV. DRESDEN. TIME passed quickly, as it always does when one is busy. Stern old Winter had taken his de- parture, and smiling Spring was with us instead. Al- though it was but the latter week in April, the meadows were green, the trees in blossom, and the garden-flowers in bloom. Whenever we went into the street, boys and girls came running up to us to sell March-cups; old women held out their baskets of blue violets, and the flower-stalls greeted us with the sweet odor of hyacinths. Everybody, even the decrepit old man, the pale invalid, and the little child, was out in the gardens and parks to enjoy the gen- tle breezes and the golden sunshine that Spring had brought. There was vacation at the University, and yielding to the general impulse to go abroad, I de- cided to go to Dresden for a few days. I had no companion this time, except a "Baedecker," but it proved a very good friend, indeed. The journey oc- cupied but two hours, and the time was pleasantly passed in noting the things along the way. At first, the country was as flat as it is about Chicago, but as we advanced it became hilly and finally mountainous. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 105 In the fields, men and women were plowing, plant- ing, and pulling weeds out of the grass. What seemed comical to me was to see men plowing with cows. The animals went along so composedly that one could scarcely see them move, and I wondered how long, at that rate, it would take to plow an or- dinary sized field. As we approached Dresden the scenery became beautiful. The hills and mountains displayed the dark and light green of fir and decid- uous trees, from among which castles occasionally reared their stately towers. I again took lodging in one of the Y. M. C. A. hotels, and after depositing my baggage, started out, guide-book in hand, for Bruehl Terrace. A short walk, and I stood before the imposing flight of steps leading up to the Terrace. I could not but stop to admire the gilded sand-stone statues, glittering like gold in the sunlight, which are placed on either side at the top and foot of the stairs, and then mounted the long flight of steps. From the Terrace such a grand panorama spread before me that I had no de- sire to leave the place for some half hour. At my feet, spanned by three bridges, rolled the river Elbe, bearing upon its broad bosom freight and pleasure boats; opposite was the new part of the city, and in the distance a chain of high, rugged, wooded hills. While standing at the stone wall which borders the Terrace, I heard music, and lookin"' about saw a 106 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES band crossing the bridge just below me. As is usual, a crowd was following, and kept increasing until, when the musicians stopped at the palace near by, to serenade the king, it had grown to large propor- tions. Becoming tired, I looked about for a seat, and as none of the benches were vacant, seated my- self beside a German girl, who was crocheting. I was much interested in watching the crowd about me, the river, and the pedestrians and vehicles con- stantly crossing the old stone bridge, which has stood for six centuries, and which Jean Paul Richter called " the Triumphal Arch of Dresden." I could have dreamed away many hours at that delightful place, had it not been that a slight faint- ness warned me that the dinner hour was passing. Consulting my good counselor, Baedecker, I ascer- tained that there was a first-class restaurant not far away, on the Terrace, and set out in quest of it. I walked along in the shade of the linden trees, ad- miring the beautiful tulip and hyacinth beds, and found the Belvedere — the restaurant I was looking for — at the end of the Terrace. It has beautiful grounds which rise gradually above the Terrace, and I found a desirable place at one of the small tables on the lawn, where I could still have the Elbe pano- rama before me. A neatly dressed waiter brought me dinner, which had been prepared to please the eye as well as the palate, and so I was surrounded OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 107 with all the requisites of a feast. A number of per- sons were at the other tables, and before I took my departure, two of America's fashionable daughters took seats at a table opposite and ordered luncheon. The Zoological Garden, which I wished to visit next, lies a number of miles from the heart of the city, so I took a cab. Perhaps some of my readers wonder why I visited so many Zoological Gardens; but they must remember that the grounds are usu- ally worth seeing in themselves, besides being popu- lar resorts. At the entrance to the "Garden" stands a hotel, where some of the most fashionable people were spending the afternoon. I passed on, and wandered up and down the winding paths until I had seen all that I cared to, and then started on my homeward way through an adjoining park, called " Grosser Gar- ten." After having gone some distance, I suddenly came upon an avenue bordered by grand old trees, where hundreds of people were promenading, and elegant turn-outs dashed by. I sauntered along with the crowd, and soon came to the end of the avenue, where two white statues mark the entrance to what was once a royal garden, and in the midst of which stands the old palace, now used as a museum. The grounds, with their rare shrubs and trees and beau- tiful flowers, were delightful, and the pansies — Oh, such beauties as they were! The large, velvety 108 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES flowers completely covered the parterres, making them one mass of white, yellow and blue. While strolling about, I came to a lake of considerable size, back of the palace, and upon its left shore found the magnet — a restaurant with shady garden — which attracted the society people. Thinking this would be a good place to rest, I looked about for a seat, and secured one after some difficulty, for although the carriages kept coming and going, and the crowd constantly changing, yet there were but few unoc- cupied tables in the garden. As the day was warm, ice-cream and iced drinks, as well as beer, were in demand, although not nearly so many ices are used in Germany as in America. The cream I ordered was dotted with small, brown specks, which I at first was at a loss to account for, but which proved to be powdered vanilla-bean used instead of extract. Many, after disposing of their refreshments, strolled about for a time, and the drivers while waiting, in order to keep the horses under better control, drove round and round the lake, stopping at times to accept a glass of beer, which their indulgent masters sent them. I remained, studying the life about me, until it began to grow late, and then almost reluc- tantly left the attractive place, which apparently was as crowded as when I first saw it. The following morning I took a walk about the city, until the Museum was opened. Nothing of note OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. IOQ came under my observation, except a quaint fountain resembling a wayside chapel, an old convent, and the Zwinger, an immense ancient building of the Rococo style, inclosing three sides of a square — the Museum occupying the fourth side. It was the intention of the builder to furnish the Zwinger with luxurious Roman baths and gardens, but after spending im- mense sums, he was obliged to abandon the project for the want of further means, and now the incom- plete edifice stands a monument to man's folly. I had now reached the Museum — a building of the Renaissance style, adorned with statues of artists and poets — and passed up stairs to the art gallery. I soon sought out the gem of the collection, Ra- phael's "Sistine Madonna," which I found in a room by itself. On one of the soft seats opposite, sat a young man — probably an art student — with folded arms. He never moved while I was in the room, and seemed to be lost in rapture over the great master-piece. A curtain has just been drawn back, and the Madonna, surrounded by numberless sweet cherub-faces, with the Christ-child in her arms, is looking out into the distance with a world of mean- ing in her dark, meditative eyes. At her right is St. Barbara, at her left Pope Sixtus, and in the fore- ground two cherubs with lovely innocent faces. The coloring in the picture is fine and well preserved. I would have enjoyed remaining here longer than I did, IIO FOREIGN EXPERIENCES but my time was limited, and there were other paint- ings to be seen. Among those of note are: "The Tribute Money," by Titian; "Virgin and Child," and " Neptune Stilling the Winds," by Murillo, and "Adoration of the Shepherds," by Corregio. The modern paintings which pleased me most are: "Christ Before the Learned Men," "The Crucifixion," "The Evening Prayer," " Summer," and "The Last Fare- well." It is impossible to describe pictures satisfac- torily. They must be seen to be appreciated. Suf- fice it to say, that of those I saw some are so beau- tiful, so life-like, so affecting, that I almost forgot they were but representations and not the things themselves. Before leaving, I took another peep at the "Sistine Madonna," and there sat the art student still gazing at the picture before him. It would not do to leave Dresden without visiting the Opera House, which is said to be one of the finest buildings in Europe, and in front of which stands on a mosaic square the equestrian statue of King John. Meyerbeer's opera, " The Huguenots," was to be given the last evening of my stay, and I was so fortunate as to obtain a good seat in the par- quet. The chairs, I found very comfortable, being furnished with springs and upholstered with crim- son velvet. In front of me sat five Americans, resi- dents of the city, I think, for there is an American colony at Dresden. At my right was a Frenchman, OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I I I and at my left a German lady and her daughter. The costumes worn by the actors were elegant, and all played and sang their parts well. The chief singer was a foreigner, as one could detect by her pronunciation, which, although good, lacked that in- definable something to make it essentially German. Her sweet, bird-like singing called forth round after round of applause. The orchestral music, too, was all that could be desired. On my way to the depot, next morning, I crossed the old stone bridge, from which I had a good view of both parts of the city. There was abundance of time before the starting of the train, so I wandered leisurely along. Stopping occasionally at one of the piers, which project at both sides like balconies, and are furnished with seats. When I reached the other side, I came upon a square, and having forgotten just which way led to the depot, seated myself and was consulting my guide-book, when I heard some one shout. Looking up I saw a sprinkling-cart com- ing directly towards me, and I had just time to escape a morning bath. My grip-sack, which I had left on the bench, received a slight shower. Having learned which route to take, I again set out and reached the station without further experiences. The "schnell- zug" soon came and shortly was speeding towards Leipsic, where I arrived in time to have a pleasant chat before dinner. 112 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES CHAPTER XV. WEIMAR. MY sojourn in Germany was rapidly drawing to a close. It was now May and the weather continued delightful, which was highly gratifying to me, as I wished to spend a few days at Weimar, be- fore saying good-by to Germany. I again had no other companion than a trusty "Baedecker." My friend, Miss M., was busy with her music, and had decided to remain abroad another year, so that she would have opportunity during vacations to visit what places she desired to see. When, after a ride of an hour and a half, I stood at the Weimar depot, looking about, I could see but little of the city, as it lies in a valley, at a consider- able distance beyond. By taking a cab, however, I, in a short time, reached the hotel I had chosen, and having deposited my baggage and consulted my guide-book, started out to visit the Schiller House, a neat, three-story structure, with tiled roof and dor- mer windows. Upon ringing the bell, an old woman came to the door and informed" me that I would find the guide in the third story, where the Schiller rooms are. I mounted the narrow, dark stairs and found OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I 1 3 that a small party of girls had preceded me. We were shown the rooms — parlor, study, and bed- room — but were most interested in the study, because it was here the poet worked and died. The floor is bare, and the walls, covered with a cheap, dark paper, are adorned with a few colored pictures, and portraits of the poet. At our left as we enter, stands a spinet, upon which Frau Schiller used to play, and upon it lies a stringless guitar — fit emblem of the departed bard. There, in front of the side window, are his chair and writing-desk, and just back of it, in the corner, the bed upon which he breathed his last. The sleeping-room is so small that the bed was brought out into the study during Schiller's last illness, so that he might be made more comfort- able. A small table with two candle-sticks stands at the bedside, and hanging about, as well as covering the bed, are many laurel wreaths. At the head, taking the place of a pillow, is — what is almost start- ling at first — a picture of the death mask framed and surrounded by an evergreen wreath. The kind old man, who was our guide, spoke feelingly of the de- ceased poet. " It is too bad," said he, " that he died just when he had reached the point where he might have lived comfortably, and have devoted himself to his literary work, without being harassed by those cares incident to poverty." He also expressed the opinion that Schiller merits more praise than Goethe, 114 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES because he was poor and had so much to overcome, while Goethe was a favored son of fortune. The next place of interest visited was Goethe's house, a large, comfortable dwelling given to the poet by his friend and patron, Duke Carl August. I was first directed up-stairs, where I found a different guide for each set of rooms. What first strikes one is the vast difference between the interior of this house and that where Schiller dwelt. Here are dozens of apartments with polished floors, uphol- stered furniture, and many treasures of art, while at the former place there is but scanty room, and the furnishings are plain, and scarcely more than neces- sity requires. Besides the oil portraits in the Goethe picture-gal- lery, there are about three hundred of the poet's draw- ings hung about the different rooms. The Juno Room — so called from a cast of Juno's head standing on a pedestal near the door — is adorned with Italian paintings, and contains the piano on which Men- delssohn played at the age of ten, when visiting Goethe. The other apartments contain hundreds of minerals, stuffed birds, fishes, reptiles, mounted skel- etons, and electrical apparatus — all of which testify to the indomitable energy and ceaseless investiga- tion of one who was not only author, but statesman, theater director, artist, and scientist as well. Having made the rounds up-stairs, I was shown OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I I 5 the way to the library and bed-room in the rear of the building, on the first floor. Everything is kept in the same order as it was when the poet was alive, and one could easily imagine he had gone away but for a few minutes. There are the cards left by his callers; there, his books; there, his chair; and there, on the table, the cushion on which he leaned his elbows while dictating to his amanuensis, oppo- site. The scrap-basket, too, which stood at his side, and in which he had a habit of laying his large kerchief, is in its place, and before one of the win- dows stands a plate containing some earth, which, shortly before his death, he had brought in to be analyzed. The bed-chamber, which is entered through the library, has a window opening into the garden, and everything is arranged with a view to comfort and convenience. The walls about the bed are hung with woolen tapestry, a rug is spread in front, and a thermometer and bell-cord are within reach. A tea- urn, tea-cup and saucer, spoon, and bottle of medi- cine are placed on a small table beside the large arm- chair which stands opposite the window. In this chair it was that Goethe was seated when the Death Angel overshadowed him, and when perceiving the gathering darkness he asked for more light. "More light!" those are the words last spoken by Ger- many's illustrious poet. And who shall say that Il6 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES they were not soon realized in that brighter sphere beyond? The place to which I next directed my footsteps was the park. On the way, I passed the fine bronze statue of Goethe and Schiller, before the theater of which Goethe was for many years director. The poets are represented as standing side by side. Goethe, with his left hand upon Schiller's right shoul- der, holds in the other hand a laurel wreath, which Schiller, who clasps a roll of manuscript in his left hand, is about to grasp with his right. On the ped- estal is an inscription, which reads: "To the Poet- pair by the Fatherland." Farther on I saw the house in which Frau von Stein formerly lived, and shortly after I reached the park. If, by some magic means, I could cause my readers to see the park, as it was that May morning, I should be happy. But, alas ! it is not in my power. I can but mention the grand old avenues; the walks through green mead- ows dotted with clumps of yellow, pink, white, and red flowering shrubs; the woodland paths leading to picturesque ravines, and along the winding stream, upon whose dark bosom were mirrored waving grasses and overhanging trees; the golden sunshine; the balmy air, and the happy, joyous birds: all combined to make it one of the most delightful places imaginable, and I walked on and on, as if in a happy dream. After a time, 1 crossed the river to OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 117 a meadow, beyond which, on a highway leading along the foot of a hill, I saw a plain, frame dwell- ing — Goethe's Garden House, where the poet lived in summer — surrounded by a green hedge. When I had reached the house, I rang the gate-bell, and a lame girl came to admit me into the yard, and then conducted me through the house. The study is on the second floor, and the poet's parlor and bed-room, on the first floor. Everything is extremely plain; but a more delightful abode for a poet could not be desired. Back of the cottage is a path winding up the wooded hill-side, and some distance up one comes to some benches, a stone table, and a tablet on which is engraved a short poem to Frau von Stein. Here Goethe used to love to sit and medi- tate, while the sunbeams stole through the interlac- ing branches to kiss the modest wild flowers, the squirrels chattered overhead, the birds warbled, and the beautiful valley lay before him. It is, indeed, a place where one would like to dream away whole hours at a time. I rested here, and then returned to the city to dine. After dinner, I set out on another long walk to the cemetery, for I wished to see where the remains of Goethe and Schiller lie. The burial ground is on a hill-side at the edge of the city, and I wandered about for some time before finding the Fuerstengruft (Ducal Vault). I entered the spacious portico, and Il8 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES knocked at the door, as I had been informed a guide would be there at that time; but there was no re- sponse. I seated myself and waited, but all was silent. I was just beginning to despair, when I heard voices within, and soon the lock clicked, the ponder- ous door turned upon its hinges, and the guide ushered out two boys. Permission to view the in- terior was granted me, at which I was very glad. The room first entered is fitted up as a chapel, and has a number of openings in the floor, through which the caskets are lowered into the under-ground part. The upper part of the vault was cool, and the lower part cold — so cold that I was obliged to throw something about my shoulders. The guide, with candle in hand, led the way down to the cold, dark, and silent abode of the dead, where are dozens of caskets of all sizes containing the remains of ducal families. Near the foot of the stairs, side by side, stand two large, iron-bound, oak caskets covered with wreaths of everlasting flowers and laurel, and about this spot it is that the interest of pilgrims to the "German Athens" centers; for here is all that remains of the admired Goethe and the beloved Schiller. A feeling of mingled sorrow and thank- fulness stole over me as I tarried there — sorrow at the decay of the fleshly tabernacles in which formerly dwelt such gifted souls, and thankfulness for the OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 1 9 privilege of standing beside the honored dust. Near by rests Duke Carl August, and in the rear of the vault a Catholic duchess, who had a handsome addition built and consecrated for her remains, which repose beside those of her husband — a Protestant — resting on unconsecrated ground. Not wishing to remain longer in the chill glo®m of the vault, I gave the guide a fee, and once more stepped into the outer world, where were warmth and light and life. I visited a lot where some of Goethe's descendants are buried, and then returning to the city, had a dish of ice-cream at a restaurant near the Ducal Palace. The next morning — my last at Weimar— I walked over to the Stadtkirche (built in 1400), of which Herder was once pastor, and where his remains are interred. His statue stands in front of the old church, and back of it is the house in which he lived, still used as a parsonage. I had now seen the chief places of interest, with the exception of Liszt's house, where the great mu- sician lived for thirty-eight years. I was not study- ing music, so did not at the time care especially to visit the place, but have since regretted not doing so. When I reached the depot, I found that I had some time to wait, and seated myself on one of the benches in the adjoining park, where the hawthorne 120 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES was in full bloom. A number of children playing about, and people passing by served to make time pass more quickly. At length the train came, and soon I had left behind me the Poet's City, where once shone some of the brightest stars that ever rose above the literary horizon. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. CHAPTER XVI. LONDON. IT was May 29th, 1893, and the final day of my so- journ in Germany. All preliminaries had been arranged. A berth on an ocean steamer had been secured; my trunk forwarded by freight to Liver- pool; the parting calls made, and a cab engaged to call for me, so that nothing now remained to be done but to strap my valise and eat breakfast. Although it was early for the boarders to be up, they soon put in their appearance, as they said they were going to "see me off." The cab came at 6:10 a. m., and while Miss M. and I entered it, our friends walked on. We were soon all at the station, where we were joined by a young German lady, whose acquaintance I had made at the university, and by my tutor, Dr. Rampendahl, and his wife. The train was soon made up, so that there was but little time to wait, and after a few parting words and sad farewells, I stepped aboard. Just as I did so, Frau Dr. R. gave me some beautiful flowers — pink roses, white carnations, forget-me-nots and maiden-hair ferns. Oh, they were so lovely, and smelled so sweet! and were a constant delight not only to me but to those 122 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES about me. One lady said, "Your roses are so re- freshing. They smell like a whole garden." The "through-coach" in which I rode differed somewhat from the ordinary ones, in that it had at one side, extending its whole length, an aisle, into which the compartments opened. At first, I was all alone, but after a time was joined by several women, who were also going to London. Among them was a young German woman and an English "bachelor-girl," a resident of London. The first part of the journey was pleasant, as the day was cool and the country interesting. We had glimpses of women and men eating their morning luncheons in the fields, in some of which hundreds of red pop- pies nodded their pretty heads. Quaint villages and busy cities were passed in rapid succession. Noon came, and we ate our luncheons, but only the "bachelor-girl" had anything to drink. Nothing could be bought on the train, and the stops at the stations were too short to admit of making any pur- chases. We appealed to the conductor, and he told us in the most consoling way, that about the middle of the afternoon we should be allowed a fifteen- minutes' stop at a town in Holland, where the most excellent bouillon was to be had. It seemed a long time to wait when we were so thirsty, but as we could do no better, impatiently endured it until the train stopped, and then, all like half-famished creat- OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 23 ures, rushed into the restaurant. From this on, the journey was tedious and uninteresting. The part of Holland through which we now passed was al- most like a desert. There was nothing but a barren waste of sand, dotted with a few stunted firs, and as the train sped along, the dust flew about it so that we had to close the windows, and even then it sifted through the cracks. It was so fine, and looked so much like smoke as it rose from the floor, that we became alarmed, thinking the coach was on fire. We called the conductor, but he assured us it was noth- ing but dust. At 9:30 p. m., we reached Flushing, where a channel steamer was awaiting our train, and which soon bore us off to Queensboro, England, where, after a quiet passage, we arrived next morning about 7 o'clock. Here our baggage was inspected, and then we again resumed our journey. At 8 o'clock a. m., I found myself in London, and I must confess that the thought of being alone in that great English me- tropolis, at first made me somewhat nervous, but that soon passed away, and I had a most enjoyable stay, being favored with fair weather, that most de- sirable of all things in London. I was happily situ- ated in a good hotel, and after eating a hearty break- fast, and consulting my guide-book, started out to see the sights. I first went to the "Bank," the largest monetary 124 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES establishment in the world, covering eight acres, having a capital of over £ 14,000,000, and employ- ing one thousand clerks. Here I took a "bus," and from the top of it had an excellent view of every- thing. There were tally-ho and hackney coaches, busses filled within and without, large covered wagons, two-wheeled vehicles, elegant landaus, hand-carts, tricycles, and bicycles — all in one grand — I was go- ing to say confusion, but that would not be quite true, for through the skillfulness of the drivers and the vigilance of the policemen, all get along quite well. The escapes, though, were sometimes so nar- row as to cause me some uneasiness. The side- walks, likewise, were crowded with well-dressed men and women, working people, soldiers with bright, red coats and little turban-shaped, or black Scotch caps, boot-blacks, and boys and girls and women selling papers; young women, poorly clad and hag- gard, with bunches of beautiful roses, were pursuing the well-dressed people, and beseeching them to buy; poor, crippled match-girls, with imploring looks, were offering their wares for sale; and women, hold- ing a child in one arm, and a few cheap articles to sell in the other, were pushed so near the edge of the walk that their dresses were all soiled and torn by the passing vehicles. Such are the pictures that every day greet one's eyes in the London thorough- fares! Wealth and poverty! Comfort and misery! OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I 25 and one must be hard-hearted, indeed, if he be not touched by the suffering about him. Some of those people I think I shall never forget so long as I live. After a ride of some twenty minutes, I alighted at Charing Cross, and soon after saw before me the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Could it be possible ? Were these grand and world- renowned buildings really before me, or was it all a dream? — such were the thoughts that passed through my mind on first beholding them. Soon, however, all doubts of reality had passed away, and I was standing in the historic abbey, within whose gray walls coronations have taken place, and kings and queens, as well as persons eminent in science, art, and literature, have found a last resting-place. I passed up lofty aisles, over marble slabs covered with in- scriptions; by statues, monuments, and busts, wan- dered through gloomy passages and arched cloisters; and lingered over ancient tombs in quiet chapels. One of the most interesting places is "Poets' Cor- ner," where among the monuments to English poets, we see a bust of our own dear Longfellow. And how one's heart thrills with patriotism and swells with love and pride as he gazes at it! The royal tombs that most attracted my attention are those of Queen Elizabeth, Mary Queen of Scots, Henry VII., and the two youths, Edward V. and Richard, Duke of York, who were murdered in the Tower. 126 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES Before I had quite made the rounds, the abbey- clock chimed a quarter of three, the time for wor- shipers to gather for the afternoon service. I re- mained to hear a part of it, and then strolled over toward the Houses of Parliament. A crowd was standing about the gates, watching the members of the "houses" drive out. Stylish carriages, often containing the wives and children of the statesmen, drove in, and after ten or fifteen minutes returned with the gentlemen. I scanned the faces as they passed, thinking that Gladstone or some other promi- nent member might be among them, but all were strange to me, and as there was no informant at hand, I remained in ignorance as to who they were. Resuming my way, I next crossed Westminster bridge, from which I had an excellent view of the Parliament Houses, rearing their gray stone walls, lofty towers, and numerous minarets on the bank of the Thames. While looking at this beautiful piece of architecture, the clock in one of its towers sent out upon the evening air a sweet strain of music and then rang out the time of day. Next morning, I visited the National Gallery, where there is a large and fine collection of pictures, but none that are specially celebrated. As I was about to leave the gallery, I met a friend whom I had learned to know in Leipsic. She also was on her way to America. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. \2J A number of hours were pleasantly passed in St. Paul's Cathedral, which with its immense dome was thirty-five years in building. Then came luncheon, a farewell visit to Westminster Abbey, and a ride to Hyde Park. It was about 5 o'clock when I arrived, and already a constant stream of carriages and pe- destrians was passing through the large gates. I walked along "Rotten Row," where hundreds of peo- ple were seated on benches, standing in groups, or walking back and forth, watching the elegant car- riages roll by, which, drawn by high-stepping horses, proud in their gold and silver trappings, held people of fashion, nobles, and members of the royal family. The coachmen and footmen, in their gay liveries, sat in front, and back of them, leaning lazily against the cushions, were beautiful women, sweet children, handsome young, and pompous old men, all dressed in the height of fashion — chatting, smiling, and bow- ing to their acquaintances. After walking a long distance, I crossed the drive-way, sought out a good place to rest and seated myself upon one of numer- ous chairs placed along the walks. I had been sit- ting there perhaps five minutes, when a man came and stood before me, as though waiting for some- thing. I began to suspect that the chairs were not free, and asked the price. "One penny," said he, after receiving which he gave me a ticket and went on to collect elsewhere. 128 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES After a time, I strolled along some of the delight- ful walks in the park, and saw the largest and most beautiful hydrangeas, of all colors, that I had ever seen. There were other flowers also, and shrubs and palms. On the Serpentine, people were rowing and children sailing their toy boats, but "Rotten Row" presented the greatest attractions, so I returned and joined the crowd just opposite the main entrance of the park. Here many of the carriages stopped and the people alighted to take a promenade. Riders were out now, too, and the "Row" had become so thronged that there were frequent blockades in spite of the vigilance of mounted and unmounted police- men. The day was exceptionally fine, and the crowd was expecting to see the Prince of Wales, but for some reason he did not come. I lingered until it began to grow late, and then reluctantly took leave. Up the Old City Road, I next morning wended my way to John Wesley's chapel and house — two very plain structures. The chapel stands back from the street, and in the yard before it is a statue of Wesley with the inscription, "The World is my Parish." While seeking for Wesley's grave in the church-yard opposite, I was surprised to find John Bunyan's tomb. On it is a statue of Bunyan, in a recumbent position, with a book in one hand. I had not yet seen the Tower, so now set out in OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 29 that direction, and reached it after some difficulty, having once lost my way. Within the ramparts I saw many cannon, which were taken in battle; and near by a company of soldiers was being drilled. Mounting an old stair-way, I reached the main part of the Tower, where the crown jewels are kept. Here I found a crowd looking at the precious gems, which are arrayed in the form of a pyramid in the center of the room, and are surrounded by iron bars and a glass case. Queen Victoria's crown is at the top; below it are the crowns of former kings and queens, also gold platters, salt-dishes, and maces that are carried on state occasions. The contents of this case are worth about $1 5,000,000. In other cases are the necklaces and medals worn by the members of the different orders, also the silver trumpets used when Victoria was crowned queen. The majority of rooms in this part of the Tower contain armor and weapons of former knights and kings, also instruments of torture, and a beheading block and an ax used in the execution of several promi- nent men. The walls and ceilings of these rooms are decorated with spears, swords, revolvers, and arrows, arranged in fanciful designs. In one room the ancient kings used to hold their banquets and in another, their devotional exercises. After spending some time here, I went out into the yard, and was directed by one of the warders to the 9 130 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES place where Anne Boleyn, Catharine Howard, and Lady Jane Grey were beheaded. I gazed long at the brass tablet which takes the place of that dreadful block, and then took a seat under the spread- ing branches of a tree. While resting there a man came calling the pigeons and strewing crumbs for them. They flew in from all directions and cooing alighted at his feet. What a contrast, thought I, between this peaceful scene and that of former days, when the block was there, and the glittering ax doing its terrible work! Slowly and musingly I arose and entered Beau- champ Tower, where so many unfortunate persons were once imprisoned. Mounting a steep and nar- row flight of stairs, I reached the room where prisoners were brought out in the day-time, their night cells being so small that there was just room to sit upright. To while away the tedious hours of their imprisonment, the unhappy beings covered the walls with devices and inscriptions, of which the earliest is dated 1462 and the most recent, 1794. Some of the designs are pretty and display artistic skill, and I spent considerable time examining them and deciphering the writing. Next morning, after a night's rest, or rather unrest — for I had the "reisefieber" (traveling fever) — I started for Liverpool, from which city I was to sail, and where I arrived after a four-and-a-half hours' ride. OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 131 CHAPTER XVII. ACROSS THE ATLANTIC AND UP THE ST. LAWRENCE. I DID not see much of Liverpool, the time being too short, but what I did see did not impress me favorably. I never saw so many loafers and beggars in one place in my life as were there — hundreds of them on the principal streets, on the steps of public buildings and lying about the base of statues. An evangelist tried to attract their attention in the evening by singing "Gospel Hymns," but only a few gathered about him. The morning after my arrival at Liverpool was the time for the departure of the boat. I left the hotel early and after a four miles' ride reached the dock, but all was not yet ready, and it was 12:30 p. m. when we left the wharf. We first had luncheon, and then went up on deck, where it was so cool that we were obliged to don our flannels and heavy wraps. All afternoon we coasted along Wales, and towards evening had a glimpse of Ireland. I stood for a long time gazing out upon the desolate rocks along the shore, feeling lonely without my companion and fearing that the voyage for me would be dreary enough; but after a few days everything wore a 132 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES brighter aspect. An agreeable young lady from London shared my state-room; the passengers were nice, cultured people, and exceedingly kind; similar pursuits and mutual suffering had removed reserve, and we were now like members of the same family. Among my first acquaintances were an old Scotch- man and his wife. And a beautiful sight it was to see them together ! They were as kind and devoted to each other as though they had been married but a few days instead of some forty years, and as the old gentleman affectionately busied himself about his wife as she sat resting in some sheltered place, bringing her extra wraps, going below to get some wished-for article, or lover-like promenading with her on deck, he seemed a veritable John Halifax. The first days were stormy and almost every one was sick. The third day out I was standing on deck, having a pleasant chat in German with a fellow passenger, when suddenly the crest of a wave dashed over us. Mr. G. saw it coming and by a quick movement avoided the greater part, but I was not so fortunate, and had to retire to my state-room for a short time to dry my clothing. The wind was still high on the fourth day, but the sun shone bright and nearly every one was up on deck. Some were idly leaning back in their steamer chairs, and others were reading or chatting, when a large wave struck the side of the ship, and in OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. I 33 a trice men, women, children, chairs, and rugs, all in one confused mass, were rolling about the deck, first to one side and then to the other. I had been sitting near the hatchway, and succeeded in clinging to the railing, although my chair escaped me and slid about as though possessed. When the wave had passed we had a hearty laugh, but one old lady, who was suffering from rheumatism, had received several bruises, and was so badly frightened that she wept. Before she could be taken below, another wave came and upset everybody again. The pas- sengers now. sought out places where they could cling to the ship, or have their chairs lashed fast, and it was well they did, for the ship continued her gym- nastic performances some twenty-four hours. As I lay in my bunk that night, fearful at times of being thrown out, hearing the water dash upon the deck and the ship creak, I thought that we were truly being rocked in the "cradle of the deep." When we reached the "fog banks" of Newfound- land, it was so cold that ice froze on deck, and to keep warm we were obliged to walk briskly about or play "tag." In the evening we were obliged to remain in the saloon. The older people collected in groups and passed the time in conversation, while the younger ones played games. When the steam was turned into the radiators, it made quite a noise and frightened Col. H., a nervous old man. He looked uneasy 134 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES and said, "That steam is making a terrible row ! You don't think it will bust, do you?" Next morning, while at breakfast, somebody said that an iceberg was near. We hastily put on our wraps and went up on deck, and sure enough, there at our right was a beautiful iceberg as smooth and white as ivory, with the exception of the base, which was a light green. The first view reminded us of a church, the second of a monster crouching lion; when we had passed and looked back, it seemed as though we were looking at the rear of a chapel, into which monks were going for morning worship. (The figures of monks were formed by shadows.) In the far distance were two other icebergs. One was par- tially enveloped in fog, and at times we could see only the top shining in the sunlight. Another, which looked like a huge wedge — and which we thought would make a good toboggan-slide — appeared at our left. Cakes of ice were also floating about. In the after- noon we distinctly saw the coast of Newfoundland, and not far away, dozens of whales spouting and floundering about. When we passed Cape Race in the evening, we saw the light-house and signal- station. The next day, Sunday, was foggy, and the fog- horn was blown almost constantly. The deck was wet and slippery, but in spite of that I took my daily promenade. Divine services were held by a Scotch OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 35 minister and a Canadian bishop, who, as they looked about upon their hearers, might easily have imagined a company of " red-skins" before them, so sun-burned were we. The skin began to peel from our faces, and we could not move a feature without being reminded of our burns. We begged oat-meal from the waiters, made a paste and applied it before retir- ing; at other times we used vaseline, but what little good was done by these remedies was always counter- acted next day by the sun and wind. Monday was bright and clear, and we were in sight of land all day, as we were now entering the St. Lawrence river. In the morning we were sur- rounded by scores of row-boats, each containing two fishermen in picturesque costumes. They had lines of great length out and were fishing for cod. As we approached, we saw them pulling the lines in, hand over hand, and when we were near they tipped their hats and held up the large fishes for us to see. We in turn saluted them, and they seemed much pleased. Although it was now the 12th of June, spring was just making its appearance here. The deciduous trees, which with firs cover the hills and mountains, were putting forth their leaves and the grass about the fishermen's huts along the shore was beginning to look green. Snow could still be seen in the gullies and on the tops of the Queen Anne Mountains. The most beautiful sunset I have ever seen was 136 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES on the St. Lawrence, that evening. The river, which was still so wide that it seemed like the sea, at first appeared one mass of molten silver; the sun was sur- rounded by a rosy halo; and the sky displayed tints of purple, red, pink, green, and blue, exquisitely blended. As the sun sank below the horizon, water and sky assumed the most delicate tints, which became softer and softer, until they died away before the approaching darkness. The preceding evening, when steaming through the Gulf of St. Lawrence, we amused ourselves by watching the phosphorescent lights on the water. A luminous path was left behind the boat, and the water that rolled from its sides was covered with myriads of seeming diamonds. All about were patches of light, which the captain said were caused by shoals of mackerel and herring, and if one stood at the bow of the ship, he could see the fishes dart away at either side. The early morning of the next day was foggy, but soon became clear. The river was as smooth as a mirror, the sky, cloudless, and the breeze exhilarat- ing. Both banks were now plainly visible, and nu- merous villages nestled at the foot of the hills. Every- body was on deck and we glided along so quietly that the ever-changing scenery seemed like a beauti- ful dream. At 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we saw the Fall of Montmorency in the distance — a pretty snow-white fall, which, although narrow, is said to be OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 37 one hundred feet higher than Niagara. Soon after, we rounded a bend in the river, and there looming up before us on a bluff was Quebec. The boat stopped here some three hours, and we went ashore to see the city. A number of us hired "calashes," peculiar two-wheeled vehicles having one seat for passengers, and one taking the place of the dash-board for the driver. The box is hung on stiff strap springs, and the back seat has a cover, which can be raised or lowered at will. One could easily imagine himself in France. The majority of the people speak French, the houses are foreign looking, and nearly all the signs are French. Our driver first took us to the top of the bluff, where there is a fine citadel. Then we returned to the Terrace, from which we had a com- manding view of the St. Lawrence, St. Charles, and St. Catharine rivers, and where stands a monument to the memory of Generals Wolfe and Montcalm. Resuming our way we drove through the Old Town, and stopped on the way to buy some ice-cream, for we were suffering greatly from the heat. A few days previous we had been sailing among icebergs; now we were where the thermometer registered 82 ° in the shade; besides we were warmly dressed. Of course, we girls had to have some chocolate and maple creams, too, and then we returned to the steamer. As we were leaving the city, we saw an inscription on the precipitous rock, marking the 138 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES place where General Montgomery was pushed over the cliff. Farther on is Wolfe's Cove, where General Wolfe landed his soldiers in 1759. Next morning we were awakened early and told to come out and see the sights. Miss O. was very sleepy, and said that she was not going to rise for an hour yet. The fact, however, that there was some- thing to be seen, drove all sleep from my eyes, and hurriedly dressing, I went up on deck. The morn- ing was delightful and the kind old captain invited me to go upon the bridge, from which there was an excellent view of the surrounding country. The river had become much narrower, the land more level, and spring more advanced. Soon the captain pointed to a city at our right and said that it was named Three Rivers, because the river on which it is sit- uated has three mouths and people formerly thought there were three streams. Other passengers now began to appear on deck, and I soon joined them. Although the river was still quite wide, it was shallow, and the course of the steamer was along the line of buoys, which marks the deeper part of the channel kept open by constant dredging. Later on we came to Lake St. Peter (an enlargement of the St. Law- rence), and being informed that we would reach Montreal at 1 p. m., were obliged to spend part of the morning in packing, feeing servants, etc. We had luncheon early and it was not long until Montreal OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 39 was in sight. All with eyes fixed upon the city, which became more and more distinct, were grouped on deck, chatting in a desultory way, and when the people at the dock became visible there was strain- ing of eyes to catch a glimpse of some familiar face. Soon there were glad cries of recognition and waving of handkerchiefs, and in a few minutes the boat had stopped. While the cables were being fastened, good-bys were said, and then our little world was cruelly torn asunder. It was warmer here than at Quebec, and as we were not yet accustomed to the heat, it seemed almost unbearable. When the inspection of baggage was over, I made a tour of the city, but did not see the beautiful residences about the mountain (Mount Real), from which the city derives its name. The distance was too great to walk that warm day, and but few of the horse-cars were running, as new tracks were being laid for elec- tric cars. The French element is not so strong here as at Quebec, and the city is more modern looking. There are many fine business blocks, churches, and monasteries; and monks, and Catholic pupils wear- ing green sashes are seen upon the streets. Victoria Bridge, which is i£ miles long, and boasts of having received its finishing touch from the hand of the Prince of Wales, spans the river at the beginning of the rapids. During the winter the river is covered with ice so 140 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES thick that railroads are laid upon it, and drive-ways marked out by planting fir trees in the ice — the use of the trees being to keep people from going astray during heavy snow-storms. When the ice begins to go out in the spring, it carries the piers and dock buildings with it, and would do much damage to the city were it not for embankments that have been raised along the shore. The river steamer Alexandria, which I took for Charlotte, N. Y., left early the following morning. It started out in the canal to avoid the Lachine Rapids, and much time was consumed in passing through the various locks. Then, for a time, there was clear sailing on Lake St. Louis, a summer resort much frequented by the rich of Montreal. Then entering another canal, we saw at our right the Ottawa rolling its dark stream into the green-tinted St. Lawrence. The waters of the two rivers do not seem to mix readily, for they can be distinguished far below the confluence. A short distance farther, and the Cascades were in view — rushing, dashing, splashing, foaming — truly they are a charming sight. Returning steamers run the rapids, and it is said to be fine sport. The sun sank in splendor on Lake St. Francis, which like the aforementioned lakes is simply a widening of the St. Lawrence. During the night, we passed through a number of canals and many locks, and in so doing came into collision with OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 141 some barges. The timbers crashed, and I thought after coming thus far safe I was yet to be ship- wrecked, but happily the accident did not prove to be a serious one. When daylight came it revealed many beautiful scenes. At our right lay Canada, and at our left New York, bright in spring attire. It was indeed gratifying to glide swiftly past the verdant meadows, the wooded hills, the cool dales, the pleasant farm- houses, the quiet villages, and the busy cities — all of which it seemed had formed in line and were parading for our benefit. In the afternoon the bank at our right became high, rocky, and precipitous, and upon its wooded brow handsome residences were seen. This was apart of Brockville, where we stopped for a short time. Proceeding on our way, we soon came to the outposts of the Thousand Islands. The main body was reached about 6 p. m., and from this time until 10 o'clock pleasurable surprises awaited us at every turn. Here was a rock just large enough to accommodate one little tree. Others somewhat larger were occupied by a tent or cottage. Just beyond, two larger islands connected by a pretty bridge, presented their stately villas to our view. Farther on we came to those that contain many acres of woodland, and away off at our left we caught a glimpse through the trees of the large hotels at Alexandria Bay. At times the river before us 142 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES appeared to be completely blocked, but as we advanced passage-ways opened in the most unexpected places. As night drew on the moon cast her soft light over "all, increasing the charm of the scenery, until me- thought we were in fairy-land. Early the next morning, I was awakened by the boat whistle, and peeping out of my state-room window saw that we had arrived at a town, which I afterward learned was Picton on the Bay of Quinte. After breakfast the majority of the passengers went ashore for a stroll through the town, and in the course of a few hours our journey was resumed. The bay, which is narrow, with high, wooded banks, is noted for its beauty, and I enjoyed to the full the ride upon it. There were but few passengers when we left Montreal, but others had since joined us, and this day so many came aboard at Deseronto, Belleville, and Trenton, that the boat was crowded in the even- ing. Shortly after leaving Trenton, we entered the Murray Canal, which connects the Bay of Quinte to Lake Ontario. When we reached the lake, we encountered heavy fogs, but made good time in spite of that, and reached Charlotte (the Coney Island of the Lakes) at 1 1 :30 p. m. Many left the boat that night, but I, among others, had to wait until morn- ing for a train. Noon found me at Buffalo, but as it was Sunday, I could get no train to Meadville, Pa., until evening. Concluding to make the best of the OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 43 matter, I procured a book, some bananas, and a large rocker in the station waiting-room. As the after- noon waned, I had supper, and then took a walk in the city. Returning I had not long to wait for the coming of the train, and five hours later was standing safe within the Meadville depot, from which Miss M. and I had departed nearly a year before. I spent the night with an uncle and aunt, and next morning, while we were at breakfast, my father came to see whether I had yet arrived. A drive of three miles, and I was once more at the dear old home, where as usual, I found my mother in her earthly paradise, the garden. 144 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES CHAPTER XVIII. SUGGESTIONS TO THOSE INTENDING TO GO ABROAD. PEOPLE who intend going abroad are always thankful for suggestions, and it is with the hope of being helpful to some one that I have added this chapter. One of the questions to be considered is that of wearing apparel. In the first place one must have a flannel night-gown and winter under-clothing — woolen vests, skirts, etc. — and a heavy dress that brine will not spot, for the decks are often wet from the spray, and one occasionally gets a salt bath that she has not ordered. This durable dress should replace the traveling gown as soon as the ship has fairly started, and be worn during the whole voyage, otherwise the traveling dress will soon be draggled, soiled, and perhaps even torn, and one will present a sorry appearance when she lands on the other side. Plenty of wraps are also a necessity — a heavy ulster or padded jacket, heavy veils, a steamer-cap (Tarn o' Shanter or soft felt hat), mittens, or warm gloves, and a steamer-rug or blanket-shawl, and for wet days a mackintosh and rubbers. A number of pretty blouses are also desirable, as one becomes tired of OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 145 the steamer dress, and sometimes desires to change for dinner. Necessary articles of clothing should be packed in a steamer-trunk or telescope-valise, as the large trunks are placed in the hold, where one can- not get at them. Every one ought also to have a passport, as it may save much inconvenience. A number of weeks before sailing, a letter containing one dollar should be sent to the Secretary of State at Washington, D. C, requesting him to send a passport. In due time a document will be received, which will have to be taken to a justice of the peace to be filled out, and then returned to Washington. This is all that is required to be done, as the passport will be sent in the course of a few days. In regard to pecuniary matters, of course, one will be obliged to have considerable ready money to defray the expenses of the journey. In calculating what sum to take with one, allowance for fees and extras should be made as they are not to be avoided. For the remainder of the money it is well to have a letter of credit, if one expects to travel about much, but if intending to stay the greater part of the time at one place a foreign draft is preferable. It is well to have but a small sum in the purse, and to secrete the remainder about one's person. Foreign money can be obtained from the purser of the boat, in exchange for U. S. money. 146 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES The choosing of a line of steamers depends largely upon the time at one's disposal, the means, and des- tination. If time and money are both limited a second-class berth on one of the " ocean flyers " should be taken; if there is abundance of means, go first- class. Should means be somewhat limited, but time no special object, choose a first-class berth on a slow steamer. A first-class ticket on a slow steamer costs about the same as a second-class ticket on a fast steamer. The slow boats are nicely furnished, the service is good, and they carry a nice class of peo- ple, and if one enjoys ocean travel, the time will seem short — too short. I would not, however, advise any one to go second-class by a slow line, unless he is obliged to, as the surroundings are not conducive to pleasure. If one does not care to visit the British Isles on the way over, he had better by far take a boat for a Continental port; it will save time, trouble, and expense. Round-trip tickets can be bought at a reduction, but if one wishes to see as much as possible, it is better to go and return by different routes. If comfort is desired, a steamer-chair is a necessity. It can be bought, or rented at the dock, and upon reaching the other shore, left in care of the steamship company until the day of return. Seasickness can, I think, be avoided to a certain OF AN AMERICAN GIRL. 1 47 extent by being careful not to overload the stomach before or after sailing. Liquids should be taken in very small quantities during the first three or four days, and exercise should not be neglected. Games can be played, or what is better, a promenade taken on deck. Do not stop for mist or wind or ordinary waves, but brave them all. Soon you will come to enjoy it, and take pride in showing others how steadily you can walk, while the vessel is rocking under your feet. If, when in your state-room, you feel dizzy, hasten out on deck, and at no time remain below longer than necessary. In fact, if it is summer, live on deck. You will not take cold, if you are properly clad. It is said that writing paper, if laid across the stomach and kept moist with alcohol, will prevent seasickness. It is always pleasanter to have a congenial com- panion, but a young lady of ordinary intelligence and good sense can travel alone with impunity, and if she have a Baedecker guide book, it will be of great value to her. The rule for railway travel abroad is to go second-class on the Continent, and third-class in England. Upon reaching one's destination, it is well to call upon the U. S. consul, as he may be of much service to one, in helping to secure a good boarding place, 148 FOREIGN EXPERIENCES and in giving advice about many things of which strangers are ignorant. If you take up your abode in a private boarding- house in Germany, it will be advisable to make arrangements to get your own breakfast and supper. The German breakfast, you know, consists of nothing but coffee and rolls, and the supper, too, is usually a light meal. It will not only prove a great saving of expense to procure the supplies yourself, but you can have whatever you wish, and if you do not care to spend your time in preparing the food, you can, for a small fee, get one of the servants to do the cooking, and also the dishwashing. I did not follow this plan myself, but would were I again to go abroad. The German ways and cook- ing are so different from ours that attention to diet is necessary to preserve one's health and happiness. FINIS. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS Si "II II I I II II II II III I II Mil II II I I II II II II III I II II 020 666 710 2