^•/I "^_ .^^^ ^^-^^ %'^^-\/ v^-"/ \-^\/ -°.*^ !'•' %/ ,V '/k^ % .-.-^^ C, • _r*r ^0^ THE ROMANCE OF HISTORIC ALEXANDRIA (A Guide to the Old City) By REV. EUGENE B. JACKSON, D.D. Pastor of The First Baptist Church Alexandria, Virginia Prepared Under the Auspices of the CIVIC IMPROVEMENT LEAGUE of the ALEXANDRIA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE ATLANTA, GEORGIA A. B. CALDWELL PUBLISHING CO., 1921 Copyright, 1921 By E. B. JACKSON Alexandria, Va. NOV 21 1921 V ©C!.A653031 ^0 I TABLE OF CONTENTS I. The Founding- of a Royal City 7 II. The Old Carlyle House and the Congress of Alexandria 9 III. George Mason's Office 12 IV. The Old Liberty Hall— The Assembly Hall 14 V. Old Christ Church 17 VI. Alexandria Commons — Market Square 20 VII. Gadsby's Tavern ,23 VIII. The Second War With England 25. IX. Suter's Hill ., : ■ .>.... 27 X. The Presbyterian Meeting House :....;,....;..:....: .2ft- XI. Washington the Burgher ;.;.... 30' XII. The Old Colonial Jail :.... 31 XIII. A Home and a Friendship '. 35 XIV. The LaFayette Triumphal Tour ....: .37 XV. The Lee Family ....i : ....: :.... 38 XVI. The Shadow of Slavery 41 XVII. Alexandria in War 43 XVIII. The Marshall House 46 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS The Carlyle House 9 Gunston Hall — Home of Geo. Mason 12 George Johnson 15 Christ Church 18 The Old Colonial JaiL 20 Gadsby's Inn and Washington's Headquarters 23 Mount Eagle 25 The Prebyterian Meeting House 28 Home of Light Horse Harry Lee 33 The Home of Dr. Craik 35 Early Home of Robt. E. Lee _ 38 Marshall House During the War 45 PREFACE BY THE AUTHOR Those who know American History appreciate the position occupied by this historic city. Unfortunately the tourist is disappointed in a very natural expectation to see many points of general and lasting inter- est, for such places have not even been marked. Alexandria has neg- lected her greatest asset— her romantic past. Boston was her rival in Colonial days, and Washington was scarcely a dream; but neither of those cities possessed the historic interest of this home town of George Washington. There is a great accumulation of fact and generally ac- cepted tradition little known which has not been properly sifted or correlated, and this has been used for the first time, to satisfy the average tourist. Much has been ignored because only of local interest and unsuited to make Alexandria one of the real show places of America. Only out- standing facts are given, which to a historian may have a "scattered effect" but it is to be remembered that there is no attempt at consecutive history of places of note. If her people will cherish the fact that much valuable history was forged here, a new sentiment will crystallize that will wrap her about in the veneration and esteem of eveiy lover of liberty the world over. Alexandria was the stage on which was enacted the history of a continent and a nation, and the world's historic figures moved familiarly upon her streets. EUGENE B. JACKSON. Alexandria, Virginia. Study of First Baptist Church, June 1, 1921. THE FOUNDING OF A ROYAL CITY Virginia was named after the "Virgin Queen" Elizabeth, and in the g-igantic conflict of Cromwell with Kingly tyranny the sympathies of this proud colony were with the Cavaliers, Indeed, when Charles I. lost his head, the Burgesses expressed greatest respect for "the late most excellent and now undoubtedly sainted King"; and his son, Charles II, in exile, was asked to become King of Virginia and had actually accepted when he was invited to the throne of England. There is little wonder that when Alexan- dria was founded by the Fairfaxes, the Washingtons and others, the naming of the streets indicated clearly that the people still loved royalty. George Washington assisted in the survey. Tobacco was then the most important product of the colony, and the original nucleus of the town at the foot of Oronoco Street was three tobacco warehouses, later called Belle Haven. The "King's Highway" was built on an Indian trail to Alexandria from the old Capital, Williamsburg, where a vice-regal court was held. This was originally the famous "Rolling Road," opened by the settlers, and used for rolling hogsheads of tobacco to market. The British government learned to count on Alexandria, and selected it as Braddock's headquarters. The Royal governors were of the opinion that New York should be the cen- ter of operations. Certainly the troops ought to have been landed in Pennsylvania where there were horses and wagons. But Braddock did not feel at liberty to depart from his instructions concerning Ohio Valley establishments. Later the tide in Alexandria set against the ingratitude of royalty, and the marshes still to be seen in the northeast section, were called in derision "King George's Meadows," because George III. had opposed a proposal to drain them, made in the House of Burgesses. She forgot her love for royalty, raising the standard of revolt under Washing- ton, and thereafter named her new streets from conspicuous leaders in the Revolution. Wolfe street was named after the British General who had won a victory over the French at Quebec, unlike Braddock. Wilkes street was named after a member of Parliament who had suffered in stout defense of the Colonies. Pitt street was named after the British Premier who was a lover of liberty. St. Asaph street was named after the Bishop of St. Asaph who wrote in favor of the liberties of the Colonies. It was in his house that Benjamin Franklin began to write his famous autobiog- raphy. So high was Patrick Heni*y held in the esteem of Alexandrians that they named two streets after him. In the testing days of the Revolu- tionary period she followed loyally the varying fortunes of Washington. Alexandria won the abiding love of "The General," as she affectionately called him, and Washington in every possible manner reciprocated that affection. Indeed Lord Fairfax, a member of the British House of Lords, had been chief promoter of the fortunes of Washington, and retained the 8 ROMANCE OF HISTORIC ALEXANDRIA respect of the people of Alexandria as well, but when he learned of the defeat of England at Yorktown, by Washing-ton, he withdrew into the seclu- sion of his great estate and died of a broken heart. Alexandria is destined to be a place of increasing historic interest as the years go by and ought to have monuments of the great figures who were her citizens. II. THE OLD CARLYLE HOUSE AND THE CONGRESS OF ALEXANDRIA There are a few historic houses in America that stand in a class by themselves, and the Carlyle House is one of these. The Carlyle House was built upon an Old Stone Fort. There are no records of its birth, but cer- tainly it was built by the earliest settlers as a defense against the Indians. Within its recesses are narrow, damp cells which tradition says were origi- nally used as slave pens and stables for cattle when settlers feared Indian raids. Captain Robert Howsen brought some colonists here in 1669 under a Crown patent of land, and sold it to John Alexander. There is some evidence that the Old Fort was built as early as 1638, thirty years after the coming of Captain John Smith. As in Feudal days, the residence of this gentleman was constructed upon existing fortifications, and the waters of the Potomac washed close by. It was built in 1752 by a leading Scotch THE CARLYLE HOUSE Facing Lee Street, Between Cameron and King 10 ROMANCE OF HISTORIC ALEXANDRIA merchant, John Carlyle, who married into the Fairfax family. The home became a center of social, and later of political influence. He permitted General Braidock to use it as headquarters in England's major campaign in the South against the aggressions of the French in America. According to Washington Irving it was simply a doubtful business transaction with an Indian tribe that made England claim rights in the Ohio Valley. Gov- ernor Dinwiddle was a stockholder in the Ohio Company and used his position to send Washington as envoy to warn away the French. Indeed some of the Burgesses doubted Dinwiddle's claim to the disput:d territory. The issue in any case was whether the Anglo-Saxon type of civilization should prevail in North America, and the capture of Quebec by General Wolfe brought the desired consummation. In this mansion Benjamin Franklin, Postmaster General for America, consulted concerning mail facilities and wagons for Braddock's army, for communication with the Governors must not be cut off. Here was introduced to the British Gen- eral Braddock the former Adjutant General of the Virginia Colonial Forces (in training for service against the Indians) and George Washington was thus called providentially to save England from a disaster which might have turned the course of history backward. Significant it is that Benja- min Franklin, loyal to England now, was to influence the French court to send the fleet under Count Rochambeau which co-operated with Washington at Yorktown and thereby break forever the grip of England upon this Western world. This wily diplomat, later at the French court, is said to have hinted to the Bourbon King that by helping the Colonies against tbeir traditional enemy, England, he might be able to win back from her some of his great possessions taken in the French and Indian War. In this old house was written the famous letter, still in existence and signed by Braddock and the Colonial Governors in the well-known "Congress of Alexandria," urging upon Lord North's government the taxing of the colonies in order to actualize England's colonial dream, and resulting in the despised Stamp Act. This famous "Congress of Alexandria" advised in the letter that it should be proposed to His Majesty's Minister "to find out some method of compelling the colonies to raise the proportion expected by His Majesty toward defraying the expenses of his service." It further- more advised that "such a fund can never be established without the aid of Parliament." The aid came with the "Stamp Act." Georgs Johnson, town trustee of Alexandria and member of the Burgesses and an able lawyer, thereupon prepared resolutions and placed th.m in the hands of Patrick Henry, who recast them, and Virginia was set on fire by this fire- brand in old St. John's Church. By the strange irony of fate the old Carlyle House thus witnessed at the same time the presence of England's representatives who precipitated the Revolution and also the presence of the men who were most largely instrumental in leading her colonies toward tile greatest democracy of all history. The Carlyle House was one of the ROMANCE OF HISTORIC ALEXANDRIA 11 great social centers of Virginia. Carlyle drew around him statesmen who came to discuss laws for the country. Besides Washington, Jefferson and Aaron Burr were often here. John Marshall, Charles Carroll and John Paul Jones partook of its hospitality. Here lingers the shade of James Rum- sey, the inventor of the first steamboat, who was encouraged by Geo. Washington and whose body licS in Westminster Abbey. On the balcony overlooking the river gallants whispered nothings in the moonlight. Leg- end tells of Washington's interest in little Sally Gary. As she came trip- ping down the glistening stairway her escort George Washington was awaiting h:r to take her to a ball. History bequeaths the story that Washington loved Sally Gary, but that she loved George William Fairfax who was afterwards to own "Belvoir," just below Mt. Vernon. General Lafayette was infatuated with the beautiful daughter of General Roberdeau who had corns from the West Indies to help the Colonies and whose father fled from France at the "Edict of Nantes." Here attractive Eliza Herbert trembled beneath the fascinating eyes of Aaron Burr. Burr later attempted to pay court to this young lady at her home (206 King St.), and she is said to have given him no encouragement but went so far as to spurn his attentions. The Carlyle House owner could boast of his own bank located on the corner of Fairfax and Cameron streets, which was used by Washing- ton as the first Federal treasury, and also a private dock at the foot of Cameron street with an underground passage way (still partly in existence) leading to the vaults below the Carlyle House, where wines and other com- modities were stored, but likely used before as dungeons for Indian prison- ers. It seems quite likely that the hired Hessian soldiers, who surrendered to Washington at Yorktown, were imprisoned in the old dungeons till work was secured for them in Alexandria in laying the muddy streets with the cobblestones, still in evidence. Just across the street (northeast cornar of Fairfax and Cameron) stands the afterwards famous home, built by John Dalton, partner of Carlyle. III. GEORGE MASON'S OFFICE At the southwest corner of King and Royal streets stood the town office of the famous George Mason, the ssmi-recluse of Gunston Hall. Here it was that he carried on his private business and acted as trustee for Alexandria. He early became acquainted with Georga Washington and largely influenced both Washington and Jefferson in their conception of the government of a state. Probably no man produced works of greater in:- portanoe to the human family, during the mighty struggle for American Independence. It seems likely that in this little office he consulted with the great leaders in perfecting the final draft of the "Fairfax County Re- solves," which blazed the way for civil and religious liberty in this Western world, and which was forerunner of his famous "Declaration of Rights." GUNSTON HALL Home of Georg? Mason This document, presented in 1774, in the old Court House in Alexandria (which stood on Fairfax street, midway of Market Square), antedated the so-called "Mecklenburg Declaration," and was the basis of a speech delivered next year by Washington before the convention at Williamsburg, ROMANCE OF HISTORIC ALEXANDRIA 13 and was likewise the treasure-house from which Jefferson drew his inspi- ration and even phrases, in his fight for liberty, and in framing the Declara- tion of Independence. Mason was said to be more religious than Wash- ington. Only his clear thinking prevented the Commonwealth of Virginia from yielding to her leaders in providing for the ministers of all denomi- nations by a general assessment of the people of the state, Patrick Henry, in his defense of Jeremiah Moore, a Baptist minister (in 1773) in the same Court House, *'for preaching the gospel without license," had prob- ably argued the necessity for absolute separation of Church and State. Alexandria knew in her councils, thsrefore. Mason, the man who first pro- claimed the principles of democracy, and who was potent in the setting up of this government, making himself a great world figure. The name of one other Alexandrian ought to be foriver linked with that of George Mason, and it is none other than George Johnson, who repre- sented Alexandria in the House of Burgesses in 1765. He wrote resolutions for nullifying in the Burgesses the Stamp Act. Shortly afterwards he prepared the resolutions which Patrick Henry (after recasting them) intro- duced in the House. He immediately seconded those resolutions, and when Patrick Henry spoke the memorable words: ''Caesar had his Brutus, Charles I. his Cromwell, and George III. * * * " Johnson spoke strongly in their favor. This was Alexandria's share that memorable day. George Johnson died the year following, but he deserves a monument. He was a great patriot and had the vision of a great statesman. The above statement is disputed by Wirt in his life of Patrick Henry, though Thomas Jefferson has substantiated it in some of his notes recently discovered. IV. THE OLD LIBERTY HALL— "THE ASSEMBLY HALL" The "Assembly Hall" of Alexandria stood at the northeast corner of Market Square, on the site of the present Clerk's office. The citizens of the town often voiced their feelings here in public meetings concsrning the great issues of the day. It ought ever to be remembered in the annals of th3 town that one cf the Town Trustees, George Johnson (and a member of the Burgesses) prepared, at his hom.e on the northwest corner of Prince and Lee streets, resolutions (mentioned before) nullifying th2 Stamp Act (1765) which were presented, with some changes, by Patrick Henry in the Burgesses. Hs said to his wife on completing the resolutions (for he had determined to present them himself in the Burgesses): "This paper may cost me my life, yet it is the truth, and whether or not any one sustains me I will not turn back." It is generally conceded now that Pat- rick Henry wrote the final draft of the resolutions upon the fly leaf of an old law book, but certainly Johnson was one of the two with whom h; con- sulted before their presentation, probably knowing his intimacy with George Mason. Thomas Jefferson who was present, declares that "Henry spoke as Homer wrote," but that Johnson maintained "the learning and the logic of the case." It may be confidently affirmed that the eloquence of Henry without the help of Johnson, would have bene insufficient to cause the passage of the resolutions in the presence of so many strong leaders who were unswerving advocates of the crown. The joint efforts of these two men triumphed. George Washington voted with them on that memo- rable occasion and one vote would have turned the tide, Alexandrians met in the "Assembly Hall" to reconsider the Stamp Act, and resolved that: "If Boston is forced to subm.it, we will not." Thus, before Patrick Henry's great speech in the Assembly of Virginia, the free- holders of Fairfax Co. intimately associated themselves with the spirit thai led to the Declaration of Independence. An English writer of that tim.- says: "Here it was that George Washington, amid the plaudits of its inhabi- tants, first stepped forth as the patron of sedition and revolt, actually subscribing fifty pounds in support of hostilities. The birth of the Ameri- can Union may really be said to have taken place here. (It is claimed by some that the Carlyle House witnessed these beginnings of the struggle for liberty, with Benjamin Franklin present.) Boston's famous Liberty Hall must, therefore, take second place. It was in this old "Assembly Hall" likewise, according to unpublished records of the "Patowmack Company" (1785) that was held the first Conference, probably fathered from Mount Vernon, concerning the navigation of Chesapeake Bay and the Potomac River. In this conference Washington, scenting the dangers likely to arise from the separate interests of the GEORGE JOHNSON 16 ROMANCE OF HISTORIC ALEXANDRIA Colonies, introduced tor the first time the question of a Federal Constitu- tion (though this was previously considered informally at Mount Vsrnon.) This conference adjourned to meet at Annapolis the following Fall (1786) and only because of a minority representation there the subsequent con- vention nict at Philadelphia. Alexandria rightly claims, therefore, to be "the Cradle of the Constitution." It is a matter of not a little pride his- torically that the Carlyle Hcuse witnessed the first suggestion of Colonial taxation, and that the old "Assembly Hall" of the town witnessed the first concerted movement against British tyranny, as well as the beginning and development of the feeling that led to the Declaration of Independence. All this was crowned by the crystallization, in meeting here, of a senti- m-ent that .resulted in the making of our Constitution. It seems likely that in the early part of last century, when Alexandria was part of the District of Columbia, that the "Assembly Hall" witnessed the historic occasion of a gathering of Alexandrians to protest to the government at Washington, against the institution of slavery. The Federal authorities failed to heed this voice from the home town of Washington and Mason, but preferred rather to compromise; and later, by the logic of events, Alexandria was forced, with Virginia, into the position of defending by war a system which her leaders had always disapproved. V. OLD CHRIST CHURCH "The Church at Alexandria" was the title originally given this famous old building, and the place where Washington worshipped, since the World War, is of universal interest, if we may judge by the crowds that come, many from the ends of the earth. General Pershing visited it in October, 1920. Washington was a member of its vestry for a brief time in 1765. He was interested in the construction of this Church of England, but at the same time he was ready to subscribe to the buildings of non- conforming congregations, in Alexandria. It must be remembered that before and after the Revolution this was the place of worship for most of the landed gentry of this vicinity (along with the Pohick Church), though after the Revolution, John Esten Cooke declares, parishes of the Establishment, were naturally under the ban of public sentiment for twenty-five years. During the ministry of Rev. Wm. Gibson many of its members temporarily attended the old "Presbyterian Meeting House" on South Fairfax street. In 1790 Bryan Fairfax, who was afterwards Baron of Cameron, of Mount Eagle, became rector of Washington's church; and the biographer of the youthful Washington, "Parson" Weems, was suggested as his assistant, but did not appear acceptable. Weems seems not to have been in the good graces of the ecclesiastical authorities because of his "shocking" informality. It is of interest to note that when the glebe lands were taken from the Established Church in Virginia, Ed- mund Lee (brother of "Light Horse Harry") w^as able to save such lands to Christ Church. The glebe lands were later sold by Christ Church. It is probable that this church, with others, did not greatly prosper spiritually till the coming as rector of the Rev. Mr. Meade (aftei-wards Bishop), who spent many years in self-sacrificing labors in the reestablish- ment in Virginia of the Episcopal communion. It is interesting to learn that ministers of other denominations preached in Christ Church previous to its consecration in 1814. A notable service was held here after the Revolution, when the last British soldier left our shores, and then was read the Song of Moses crossing the Red Sea. The reverence of British soldiers for this and other churches, in the two British occupations, was marked. At the time of Washington's death the bell of Christ Church was tolled till the hour of the funeral. An Englishwoman (Mrs. Anne Ritson, who cordially despised the city) happened to be in Alexandria at the time of Washington's illness and noted how the event overshadowed everything •else: "Washington, adored by all, was sick, and had sent to town for Dr. Dick, and, 'The hero to his grave consigned, to other thoughts I gave my mind.' " The seat which Washington occupied is shown, evidently selected that the light from the window might fall on his prayer book. (It ought to be said that Washinp-ton's religious convictions, not pronounced, had ROMANCE OF HISTORIC ALEXANDRIA 19 been deepened by his experiences in the Revolution, when often he seemeil without human help in times of great crises.) It was very natural that Colonel Robert E. Lee, then a distinguished officer of the Federal army, should decide to bring his family from Arlington, built by a Custis, to worship in Christ Church, and he was confirmed here in 1858. Dr. Ran- dolph McKim preached here a most striking memorial sermon at the time of Lee's death. The Old Christ Church was taken possession of during the first summer of the War by the Federal authorities, and the vestry was not reinstated till 1866, Meanwhile the members withdrew to St. Paul's Church. During the Civil War the question of using the ritual of the Episcopal Church, in which prayer is made for the President of the United States, became vital. A captain of Illinois Cavalry advanced to the front of the chancel of St. Paul's Church one Sunday morning, and finding no attention paid to his injunction to read the omitted prayer, began reading it himself. A vestryman seized the first om who entered the chancel and threw him over the railing. A squad of soldiers charged up the aisle with fixed bayonets, and the clergyman's arrest was accom- plished. The release of Rev .Zenzie Johns, the rector, was accomplished on instructions from Washington. The "Alexandria Gazette" next day gave an account of the incident in St. Paul's, and that night the "Gazette" office was burned to the ground by Federal soldiers. This church, with others was used as a hospital till the close of the war. During the progress of the World War a British delegation headed by former Prime Minister Arthur Balfour, worshipped in the Christ church made sacred by the memories of Washington. Upon the return of the soldiers of Alexandria from the battlefields of France Christ Church witnessed a special memorial service, participated in by ministers of all denominations. During this World War the enthusiasm of all the churches of Alexandria was at high tide on account of the mighty issues involved. VI. ALEXANDRIA COMMONS— MARKET SQUARE This square was a "Commons" and for years had only three small building-s, the Court House, the old Jail, and the "Assembly Hall." It probably is as historic as the "Boston Commons." Here it was the Vir- ginia troops were mustered into service and trained for the great campaigns in North America when England and France were in a death grapple for the supremacy of a continent. (Washington was sent by Governor Din- widdle to warn the French against encroachment upon the English in the Ohio Valley, and because they did not hsed they lost a Continent.) c HS V M>4 «Nr »« -*«' ' ioU»J ,,,,,. THE OLD COLONIAL JAIL Washington, as envoy, on this first trip selected a place for a fort at the confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela Rivers, which French engineers subsequently chose for the site of Fort Duquesne. At the behest of Dinwiddle he set out a second time for the new fort on the Ohio with about 150 men. It ought not to be forgotten that Dinwiddle raised the troops for the expedition by proclaiming a bounty of 200,000 acres of land about thi fort, to be divided among the officers and soldiers. Washington wrote this word to Lord Fairfax: "I had no view of acquisition but that of honor, by faithfully serving my King and country." On this expedition ROMANCE OF HISTORIC ALEXANDRIA 21 he engaged in the fig-ht at Great Meadows (in the center of which was Fort Necessity) from which he was forced to retire because of superior numbers, but with honors of war. Washington wrote to his brother Law- rence (who was a British officer in England's previous contest with Span- ish world aspirations): "I have been on the losing order since I entered the service, which is two years." His failures were to become stepping stones to great success. Washington had bem in intimate touch with these military prepara- tions ever since he was Adjutant General of the Virginia Forces, in train- ing against the Indians. On these "Commons" Washington, while Brad- dock was making preparations, trained the "Virginia Rangers" for that disastrous campaign. Meanwhile a historic incident occurrrd in an exciting political contest between Mr. Fairfax and Mr. Ellzey for the House of Burgesses. The young surveyor could not forget ties of blood and friendship with his patrons, the Fairfaxes. Washington supported Fairfax with possibly too much zeal, and Payne supported Ellzey. High words passed between Washington and Payne. Payne, by a heavy blow, brought Washington to the earth. Troops rushed out from the barracks and would have made short work of Payne had not Washington pacified them. Everybody felt that a duel was imminent. Next morning Washington sent for Payne and said to him: "Mr, Payne, to err is human; I was wrong yesterday, but if you have had sufficient satisfaction let us be friends." Weems says that Washington became Payne's ideal of manhood, and certainly his son was pall bearer at Washington's funeral. Out of twenty men from Alexandria in Braddock's expedition only four returned to tell the story. Three months after Braddock's departure a courier came riding into Market Square and announced to the hastily gath- ered crowd the news of Braddock's defeat and death, and that many Alex- andria boys had fallen. Affection was manifested for Washington and his Colonial troops as the crowd learned how they had saved the day. The former respect in which the British "regular" was held was then turned into indignation and contempt, because they had acted (as Washington aftei-wards described it) "like shesp pursued by dogs and it was impossible to rally them." Three British regulars, ever afterward, were counted in Alexandria as about equal to one Colonial soldier. Among the msn of Alexandria who returned to be mustered out, probably in Market Square, were John Carlyle and Dr. James Craik. Washington was honorary cap- tain of the "Alexandria Independent Blues" when he was made Commander- -in— Chief of the Colonial Forces, and wrote them not to relax their disci- pline, on June 20, 1775. In 1776 when Lord Dunmore, the treacherous Colonial Governor, was ravaging the Potomac, three British war vessels came within a few miles of the town and the townsmen mustered for defense on Market Square. Colonel Fitzgerald, who was probably left in charge 22 ROMANCE OF HISTORIC ALEXANDRIA by Washingrton, hastened with the "Blues" from the Square to a small stone fort nearby manned with guns left by Braddock. The flag was to be kept flying from Market Square and a militia officer was left in com- mand by Fitzgerald. Meanwhile a solid shot was fired at the flag and the officer in charge struck the colors. Fitzgerald returned the fire from the fort, which was located at Jones' Point and called Fort Columbia, a small stone bastion, armed with guns left behind by Braddock. Most of the great stones now at the end of Jones' Point are the remains of that fort. This fort was the first attempt of the government to guard the river approaches to Alexandria, and was dismantled in 1798 when Fort Washington was constructed because of the anticipated war with our for- mer ally, France. The vessels of the enemy sailed down the Potomac. Fitzgerald, learning what the officer had done, indignantly returned to the Square and gave him a sound thrashing. Fitzgerald was said to havc been specially attached to the young Colonel, having been seen at times weeping for fear when Washington was in great dang;;r. He is said to have been the creator of Washington's Life Guard. An artillery company was gathered in June, 1798 — "The Independent Blues" — under William Harper, Captain, to get ready for the expected war with France. They were drilled in Market Square, and Washington's last military order was given this company from Gadsby's by the newly made "Lieutenant General George Washington." Two members of this company, Wm. Gregory and George Davis, lived till 1875 and 1877, respect- ively, and enjoyed the distinction for years of being the sole members of "Washington's own" Company. The pillory stood near the jail, but a writer of the day says he never saw anybody in the pillory except a negro boy, punished for killing a child on the street of the town by careless driving. The whipping post •occupied a conspicuous place likewise on Market Square. The executioner of such sentences was known as "Bobtail Bowie," who administered a lecture between stripes and permitted boys to throw rotten eggs at the pri-soner. Tradition says that, among others publicly whipped was none other than Daniel Morgan, then a wagoner under Braddock, but who after- wards became famous as a Revolutionary cavalry general, and over whose dust the government has erected a monument in Winchester Cemetery. The Alexandria "Commons" witnessed political gatherings before and after the Revolution, and famous preachers of that day discoursed here to large audiences. The Court and the Town Council were called together by the ringing of a bell suspended on three posts. Previous to the installation of this bell notice was given by the Town Sergeant, who made his proclama- tion by the beating of a drum. The Court House constituted the municipal building. Market Square was indeed the arena for the military training of men who played an heroic part in changing the ideals of the Old World, and thus stamping the New World. VII. GADSBY'S TAVERN This famous hostelry was as popular in its day with the great kaders as is the **New Willard" in Washington City. At first it was called "Old City Tavern" till after the corner addition in 1792, when it became known as "Gaisby's." It was the stopping place between the North and the South, whtn stage coaches lumbered along the King's Highway, (The first turnpike was built from Alexandria to the lower Shenandoah in 1785, and was known as the Loudoun Turnpike.) In the rear of Gadsby's, upon the ground covered by Duncan's stables, were to be found coaches and horses and outriders, who had found temporary refuge there in candying important personages from Colony to Colony. Here LaFayette and Baron GADSBY'S INN AND WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS Corner Cameron and Royal Streets DeKalb, on their way to join Washington's army, first met John Paul Jones in 1777. A writer has told how LaFayette and DeKalb, with other French officers, landing at Georgetown, S. C, and enroute to Philadelphia (April 19, 1777), stopped in Alexandria. The first two could speak English very poorly and became mixed in ordering the relay of horses at "Gadsby's." A stranger came to their rescue in the person of John Paul Jones, and an intimacy was thus formed with LaFayette which continued till the death of Jones in 1792. 24 ROMANCE OF HISTORIC ALEXANDRIA Here famous statesmen, unless entertained at Mount Vernon or the Carlyle House, stopped over night. Washington had made his headquarters in the older part of this tavern in 1754, a year before Braddock's arrival, when Adjutant General of Virginia. It was from here that he started upon his first expedition to the Western border to confer with the French and Indians. The complete lack of success of this expedition led the British Government to plan the Braddock campaign. This hostelry wit- nessed the first celebration of the adoption of the Federal Constitution on June 28, 1788, which is described by Washington in a letter to Charles Cotesworth Pinckney. Washington responded to an address by the Mayor, Colonel Denis Ramsey, from its doorstep, on his way to his inaugura- tion in New York as first President. After its enlargement it entered upon an era of great social and political importance. Once it was the scene of the famous "Birthnight Balls" in honor of the King and Queen, which were first instituted here. These were superseded in 1798 by the very first celebration of Washington's birthday, with Washington present. From the doorstep of this tavern Washington gave his very last military order to the "Independent Blues," just before his death. A French teacher visit- ing this country in 1801 speaks of Gadsby's Tavern as "the best in the United States." Washington frequently took a meal at Gadsby's when in Alexandria, and gave his last order for dinner in these words, after having been assured that there was a good store of canvas-back ducks: "Very good, sir, give me some of them with a chafing dish, some hominy, and a bottle of good Madeira and we shall not complain." Here died the celebrated actress of that day, Anne Warren, then filling an engagement at the well-known theatre, "Liberty Hall," on Cameron Street, just opposite the tavern. She was called the "Ornament of the American Stage," and was cousin of the likewise famous Joseph Jefferson. Her interment in 1808 was one of the last in old Christ Church yard. The room in Gadsby's in which the noted "Female Stranger" died, in 1816, is shown today. She is buried in St. Paul's cemetery, with the above inscription on her tomb. Some conjecture that she was of royal blood, and an attempt was made in "Harper's" some years ago to connect her with the daughter of Aaron Burr, whom he mourned as lost at sea. Here LaFayette on his triumphal tour of America in 1824, was entertained by Alexandria-Washington Lodge of Masons. Gadsby's today stands as a silent memorial of a passing procession of celebrities of a bygone day, at a time when Alexandria was an outpost of civilization. VIII. THE SECOND WAR WITH ENGLAND Alexandria had celebrated in Christ Church the departure of the last British "Redcoat" after the Revolution, but she was to witness his return in the War of '12. When that storm was approaching she made prepara- tions for the contingency by raising a regimtnt of militia under Major Lawrence Hooff, Jr. The corporation of Alexandria, always loyal, loaned MOUNT EAGLE South Side of City, Across Hunting Creek the general government $35,000.00 on condition that it be expended on defenses below Alexandria, and the militia company was drawn off to the defense of Washington City. The defenses at Fort Washington, in charge of Captain Dyson, however, were voluntarily blown up, though the com- manding officer was court-martialed. The able-bodied men and the guns were sent to Washington to protect that city ,and the town was thus left without means of resistance. A small part of the militia of Alexan- dria, however, was said to have remained under Captain Griffith, and with their artillery fought the enemy's fleet with six-pounders till the ammuni- tion gave out. When Admiral Cockburn was asked about the treatment 26 ROMANCE OF HISTORIC ALEXANDRIA of Alexandria in case of surrender he gave assurance that private property- would be respected. Commodore Gordon drew th^ ships in line before the city and one hour was given for decision. In the negotiations Gordon, with his staff, marched to the Mayor's office, then standing near the northeast corner of Duke and Pitt streets. Colonel Charles Sims, the Mayor, readily yielded his authority for British occupation. Plunder was indiscriminate but confined principally to flour, cotton and tobacco. The terms of sur- render were considered very degrading. Some little stir was made at ths wharf by two young captains of the U. S. Navy (Porter and Creighton) who foolishly seized a midshipman and ran. Immediately the ships were prepared for action, and with probable disastrous consequences, but for Colonel Sims' poise in placating the British. He then gave the impetuous officers a lecture, calling them cowards for fleeing. Colonel Sims later wrote in a letter that if that neckerchief had not broken and the midship- man had been killed or carried off, the town could not have been saved from destruction. Probably the Mayor's suave diplomacy saved Alexandria from the fate of Washington City. During the occasion a launch from the British ship "Pender" accidentally sank, drowning several sailors, on the site of the Naval Torpedo Station. After the destruction of the White House and the Capitol in Wash- ington, a plan was perfected to prevent the escape of the frigates, loaded with plunder at Alexandria. Captain Porter, who previously commanded the "Essex," evidently would retrieve the recent disgrace of running, and, together with Captain Perry (afterwards Commodore Perry of Lake Erie fame) set up batteries at "White House," an old building standing till recently below Mount Vernon, Sharpshooters were placed near. There was brisk firing at the fleet but the enemy got off without the loss of a vessel and returned to England. Only a cow was killed, and that accident- ally, by an American soldier who misconceived an order. In this war Alexandria was represented by nearly all her able-bodied citizens. There were four companies in service. The War of '12 was not glorious but Alexandria played her part well. IX. SUTER'S HILL S'^^'^^iji- It is to be held in mind that there is no Revolutionary history con- nected with the City of Washing-ton save only that part known as George- town. It is claimed that the selection of the location of th; new Federal 'j City was largely the result of a political deal between the North and the South. By a favoring word from Washington the Nation's Capital might have been placed at Alexandria. Indeed, Suter's Hill had been selected as the site of the Capitol building by James Madison, then Chairman of the Congressional Committee of 1793, appointed to name the site. Jeffer- son felt that this hill afforded one of the finest sites in the United States. Washington at that time was President and one of the richest men in the United States, owning property still to be seen on the northwest cor- ner of Prince and Pitt streets, and likewise at the corner of Cameron and Pitt streets. Because of this fact he caused the Nation's Capitol to be ' placed on the Maryland side of the Potomac. Though Washington loved I Alexandria, yet even for her sake he would not allow a thing that might__J be a reflection on his unselfish patriotism. j Washington was known per- sonally to have superintended the building of the two frame houses at the northwest corner of Prince and Pitt streets. It is to be noted that though Washington showed a personal interest in improving this city, he never seems to have conceived the idea of laying out broad streets, nor in- deed of placing houses with yards about them, but the mistake was not repeated in Washington City. There is an interesting tradition concerning Washington's "Town House" located on the now unoccupied site on the south side of Cameron street a little west of Pitt, to the effect that when Lord Dunmore was ravaging the Potomac with his war vessels Washington seriously contem- plated moving his family to Alexandria to escape possible danger from the exposed position of Mount Vernon. General Gage, who knew Alexan- dria well, urged the capture of both Alexandria and Mount Vernon, but Lord North's government never favored making war on Washington per- sonally, as its militaiy officials did on Jefferson, then Governor of Virginia; since the hope was still strong that the government might enter into nego- tiations with this influential man to save the Colcmies to the Crown of England. Washington was known to have spent days in 1775 drilling the ''Inde- pendent Companies" of the city. Strangely, the entire period of the Revo- lution witnessed no fighting upon her streets. Suter's Hill has been selected as the site of a great Masonic Memorial Temple to Washington to be built by the Masons of the United States. "THE PRESBYTERIAN MEETING HOUSE" ' (Now First Presbyterian Church.) Fairfax Street between Duke and Wolfe X. -THE PRESBYTERIAN MEETING HOUSE' This building on South Fairfax street was constructed in 1774, though restored in the next century after a fire. Before that time the Presby- terians held their meetings in the "Assembly Hall," located on the site of the present Clerk's office. This building contained the first steeple in the city, and the members held their services under a license from the County Court, having subscribd to the conditions imposed for worship. It was required that their doors be opened and remain open. Presbyterianism was founded here before the incorporation of the town, with a charter under the Toleration Act. Contributions were made to this and other non- conforming buildings by Washington, and he sometimes attended their services. In October, 1790, an Act was passed by the General Assembly author- izing a lottery "to raise the sum of 500 pounds to complete the building of the church in Alexandria for the use of the members of the Presbyterian Society," and thereto is appended a list of the managers of said lottery. The old graveyard of the "Meeting House" is of especial interest. Here lies, under the church floor, the body of Dr. James Muir, who officiated at Washington's funeral as chaplain of the Alexandria Lodge of Masons. Here lies the body of John Carlyle (Braddock's Quartermaster); and possi- bly his son, who lost his life at Eutaw Springs, S. C, fighting for the Colo- nies in the Revolution. (Alexandria was little troubled with Tories.) Here reposes the dust of the grand old surgeon-soldier, Dr. James Craik, one of the most intimate personal friends cf Washington in Alexandria, who followed his fortunes from the beginning of the Revolution to Yorktown. Among the outstanding names of persons buried here are the Hepbums, Logans, Lindsays, Douglases, Hunters, Ramsays, Allisons, Balfours, Cran- stons, Kincaids and Kennedys. It is extremely doubtful whether any spot in Alexandria contains so many sacred associations. This church was made necessary by the many Scotch Presbyterians who early settled in Alexandria. It was at first under the jurisdiction of the Northern Presbytery, till about fifteen years ago, when it was turned over to the Presbyterians of the South. It ought to be preserved as one of the sacred memorials of the heroic days of our country, as well as a monument to the sturdy Calvanists who stood against George III, as their predecessors had before stood against Charles I. Some prominent members of Christ Church attended here for a time after the Revolution, though Washington was not among them. XI. WASHINGTON THE BURGHER Alexandria was the home town of George Washington, and as a young man he was frequently to be seen on her streets riding a spirited colt. Before he was fifteen he had conceived a passion for some unknown beauty, so serious as to make him unhappy, according to his own letters. This "Lowland Beauty," is now known as Miss Betsy Fauntleroy, who lived fifteen miles below "Wakefield." He complains of his "poor, restless heart, wounded by Cupid's dart." Before his marriage, probably at the time he wrote of the "Lowland Beauty," he frequently attended social functions at the home of his cousin, William Ramsay, in the house now standing at' the northeast corner of King and Fairfax streets. John Nitingill, an old gravedigger, who died in 1863, often recalled for his friends the dignified and stately tread of "The General" upon the streets. He used to say that the small boys viewed the great man with reverence and awe. Washington always declared that he voted for "meas- ures, not men." Alexandria was his postoffice, his place of voting and his market. The last vote cast by Washington was in the old Court House for Col. Levin Powell, for Congress. Indeed, he was so much interested in making this a first-class market that he furnished vegetables from his own garden at Mount Vernon, much to the disgust of his close friends. He demanded that the weights and measures be tested by the standard scale, still to be seen in the City Hall. Washington did more than any other in laying the foundation for the present very efficient fire department. Indeed, when he was a member of the Continental Congress in Philadelphia in 1774, he purchased and presented to the Friendship Fire Company the very best engine then made. They elected him honorary captain, and in the very last year of his life (1799), happening to be in the city when a fire was in progress near the market, he leaped from his horse and helped pump the engine. Seeing a party of gentlemen looking on, he said: "Why are you idle, gentlemen? It is your business to lead in such matters." Washington was for a time member of the Board of Trustees (1766). He notes in his diary the fact of spending a day in Alexandria (1775) drilling the "Independent Companies." Washington had an exalted sense of civic pride and did all in his power to make this city a model munici- pality. Xll. THE OLD COLONIAL JAIL We may see the spot where the jail stood, and a picture of it is to be found on the walls of the First Baptist Church of this city. It was built in 1753 and was used for convicts and French prisoners captured on the Western border. It stood on the site of the present Police FTaadquarters. But curiously this old jail was used to imprison a well-known preacher of that period — Jeremiah Moore, once lay-leader in the Church of England. Though other itinerant preachers were willing, in Washington's home town, to subscribe to the Established Religion" and obey the law against non-con- formists, this man refused. The vestrymen of Fairfax Parish, who had been elected by freeholders, seemed determined to exercise civil and reli- gious authority, and no one thought of questioning a law of the Virginia Assembly, enacted in 1643. The law which Jeremiah Moore flagrantly violated, reads as follows: "AH ministers should be conformable to the orders and constitutions of the Church of England and the laws therein established, and not otherwise to be permitted to teach or preach publicly or privately." One day some members of the vestry and the rector found Moore preaching near Alexandria and arrested him for "preaching the Gospel without license." The mittimus (to the authorities) has been found; "I send you, herewith, the body of Jeremiah Moore who is a preacher of the Gospel of Jesus Christ and a stroller." The young preacher stood firmly against a law which permitted such an outrage, and rather than retract, he remained in jail and preached, like Bunyan, through the latticed door. He attracted crowds by the very novelty of the situation. Wash- ington and Mason frequently came to Alexandria, and must have known of his imprisonment. No protest could be made against a well-understood law. (It is not unlikely this determined young preacher felt that by remaining in jail the question of religious liberty would not be ignored in the issues of the Revolution.) But a significant thing happened: Patrick Henry, who at that time was in frequent communication with Washington (on the authority of a well-grounded tradition in the Moore family) was brought to Alexandria for the defense of Moore. Hon. R. Walton Moore declares that Col. Charles Broadwater, neighbor and friend to Jeremiah Moore and likewise to Washington, was then Justice of the Peace. Mr. Henry is said to have made, probably in the Court Housc nearby, a great impassioned speech, using those traditional words: "Great God, gentle- men, a man in prison for preaching the Gospel of the Son of God!" Moore was released and told he would not b? disturbed again. The record of this event is not to be found in the vestry book of Christ Church, Fairfax Parish, yet in 1803 Jeremiah Moore founded the First Bap- tist Church of this city as a memorial of his imprisonment, and there has been placed upon the walls of that church a tablet to his memory, appro- priately inscribed. 32 ROMANCE OF HISTORIC ALEXANDRIA It is probable that Washington heard Patrick Henry's speech and that the question of Religious Liberty became a vital one in the minds of Wash- ington and Mason and other leaders thereafter. The famous case against the "Parsons" had already been won by Mr. Henry. The next year (July, 1774) the same Fairfax freeholders came together in the old Court House, on Market Square, to protest against English oppression. George Wash- ington presided, and George Mason wrote and read the famous "Fairfax County Resolves." In the "Resolves," significantly, is to be found likewise the very first expression concerning Religious Liberty. It is curious that at this meeting a letter was passed, written by Bryan Fairfax in opposition. Indeed, the few Tories in Alexandria were under his leadership. Washington was so influenced by personal esteem for the man that he actually urged him to become his associate as a delegate to the Patriotic Convention at Williamsburg, and opposed Colonel Broad- water, who was an outspoken advocate of resistance. Washington after- wards wrote Fairfax concerning this letter: "As no person seemed in the least disposed to adopt your sentiments, and as gentlemen advised me not to read it * * '•' I forebore to offer it." Were not Alexandrians leaders in the movement for civil and religious liberty? Was not the speech of Patrick Henry in defense of Jeremiah Moore the year before ringing in their ears still ? Was not the old jail witnessing that day the voluntary martyrdom of a young Baptist preacher who forced upon public attention the question of soul liberty? Was not this man here striking a mighty blow for a principle which should eventu- ate, with the help of Jefferson, in the first amendment to the Constitution? The old jail later witnessed the incarceration of the Hessian prisoners who surrendered at Yorktown, and whom the city employed, pending final disposition, to pave the streets of Alexandria with cobblestones. The old jail thus held those who fought for liberty, and those who fought against it. W Letter, the famous, written in Carlyle House 10 Liberty, religions 32 Lincoln and Alexandria 46 Lloyd House, the 39 Madison, James, favors Alexandria 27 Marshall House, first blood drawn 46 Marshall, John, at Carlyle House 11 Mason, George, office of 11 Ma-onic Memorial to Washington 27 McKim, Dr. Randolph, Lee Memorial Address 19 Meade, Bishop, labors of 17 "Meeting House," Presbyterian 29 Memorial Service 44 Momorial Services in Christ Church 17, 19 Mf^xican War and Alexandria '. 44 Military Operations, against French 7 Moore, Jeremiah, imprisoned for preaching 31 Moore, Jeremiah, defended by Patrick Henry 13 Morgan, Daniel, reputed whipping of 22 Mount Vernon, family and town house 27 Muir, Dr. James, grave of -- 29 Nitingill, John, the old grave digger__-- 30 "Ohio Expedition" 7 Perry, Commodore, engagement near Alexandria 26 Persecution in Alexandria 4€ Piercy, Capt. Henry at Washington's funeral 44 Pillory in Market Squai-e -- 22 Pitt Street, named 7 Porter, Capt., folly of 26 ROMANCE OF HISTORIC ALEXANDRIA 51 Powell, Col. Levin, Washington votes or 30 Preachers, famous on Market Square 22 Prebyterians and the Revolution 29 Presbyterianism established 29 "Presbyterian Meeting House" 29 Ramsey. Mrs. Ann McCarty. zeal of 43 Ramsey, Col. Denis 24 Ramsey House 43 Ramsey, Col. William, work of 43 Rangers, Virginia 21, 43 Red Coat, British and Alexandria 43 "Red Tape," Braddock the victim of 7 Regular, British, cowardice of 43 Religious Liberty in Alexandria 32 Religious Liberty, question of 31 Revolt of Alexandria — 7 "Riflemen," the Alexandria 40 Ritson, Mrs. Anne, the observations of — 17 Roberdeau. Gen., fami'y of 37 Roberdcau in Carlyle House 11 "Rolling Road," for tobacco -- 7 Royal City, Alexandria 7 Rumsey, James, and Washington 11 St. Asaph, Street, naming of 7 St. Paul'st Church, clash with soldiers in _ 19 Scales, old standard in City Hall — 30 Sims, Maior Charles, diplomacy of 26 Slave Pen — 41 Slavery, Alexandria's attitude to 41 Slavery, British policy in Alsxandria -- 41 Slavery, Virginia's attitude toward 41 Social Life in Alexandria — 11 Soldiers, in Civil War ^ 47 Spanish War and Alexandria — 44 Snter's Hill, proposed site U. S. Capito! 27 Tories, British, under Bryan Fairfax 32 Town House of Washington 27 War, Alexandria in 44 Warren. Anne, death of in Gadsby's — 24 Washington, citizenship of -- 30 Washington, demotion of 43 Washington, enemies of 34 Washington, personal friends of 34 Washington, funeral of__-- 44 Wa'^hington's Headquarters at Gadsby's 24 Washington's love atfairs -- 30 "Washington's Own Company," survivors of 22 Washington's encounter with Payne 21 Weems, "Parson," and ecclesiastical authorities 17 Westminster Abbey of Alexandria 29 Whipping Post, the -- 22 Wilkes Street named 7 Woolfe Street named — 7 Women of Alexandria in Revolution 43 World War reli^-ious service 4*1 Zouaves, New York, flight from Bull Run 47 -<) V D 4a ! : X/ :^Sh \<^^ » i^^.i; '^oP 'bV ^0^ '^^ ° • * * '^^ , ^ ^:<^jj^^S > ^/^^ :, . ^>V^ '%''^ :? , * -t- ' * y. o w. / o V *^ ■% i ^ ^0■' >^* ';fi^¥# %,^* ::iife'- \/ :m^. u,A^ FEB 82 ^^^ ^ ST. AUGUSTINE - C^ ' FLA. ^^32084 -^^ .0 -v-