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FANCY CHEES 
 IN AMERICA 
 
 FROM THE MILK 
 
 OF COWS, SHEEP 
 
 AND GOATS 
 
 BY 
 
 GHAS. A. PUBLOW, A. B. M. D. C. M. 
 
 ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF DAIRY INDUSTRY IV THE 
 
 NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE 
 
 AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY 
 
 AMERICAN SHEEP BREEDER COMPANY 
 
 CHICAGO ^gy^ ILLINOIS 
 
^^^^! 
 
 DEDICATION 
 
 
 This little book is affectionately dedicated 
 to my friend and predecessor, W. W. Hall, 
 for many years instructor in cheesemaking 
 at Cornell University, as a slight token of 
 appreciation and admiration for his untiring 
 efforts in building up this department of the 
 college, in assisting young men to success, 
 and in building up the cheese industry of 
 the Empire state. 
 
 Copyrighted 1910, by 
 
 AMEKICAN SHEEP BEEEDER CO. 
 
 All Eights Eeserved. 
 
 ©C!.A^73899 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The making of fancy varieties of cheese is 
 now one of the most profitable branches of the 
 great dairy industry. Millions of pounds of 
 fancy or soft cheese are imported annually from 
 foreign countries, largely because the supply 
 of home-made goods is not sufficient to meet the 
 demands. This is not because just as good 
 cheeses cannot be made in this country. They 
 can be, and in many instances the home-made 
 cheese are better. The main reason is that f ao- 
 torymen in America, as a rule, do not know how 
 to make these fancy cheeses and have had no 
 way of learning. Those who know anything 
 about the methods employed have kept them 
 secret and the information contained in dairy 
 books has been too indefinite or incorrect to be 
 useful. 
 
 In order to make any educational progress 
 along this line, it has been necessary for us to 
 work out most of the problems for ourselves, 
 and in our investigations and experimental work 
 nothing has proved as useful as the acid test. 
 By its use we are able to measure and control 
 the greatest factor in the making of all cheese. 
 Without its use the business consists only of 
 guess work. In all our directions, therefore, 
 
4 PKEFACE. 
 
 we give the amounts of acidity required, in the 
 form of percentages as measured with an acid 
 test. Any person can use one of these simple 
 tests and the different manufacturing process ^ 
 are made easy by its use. 
 
 Attention is called to the importance of pas- 
 teurizing all milk used in making many forms of 
 the soft cheese. In factory work it is prac- 
 tically impossible to secure a regular supply of 
 milk of reliable quality, but by pasteurization 
 we can secure a bacteria free, uniform raw ma- 
 terial. Then by the use of commercial cultures of 
 lactic acid bacteria as starters, we can secure 
 uniformly fine quality in the finished cheese, and 
 all danger of transmission of disease through 
 cheese or whey is eliminated. The author has 
 also demonstrated that it is possible to make 
 fine Cheddar cheese from pasteurized milk, the 
 particulars being given farther on in the book. 
 
 Practically all varieties can be made from the 
 milk of cows, sheep and goats. The composi- 
 tion of these milks is so similar as to require 
 litfle or no change in the manufacturing proc- 
 esses. Goat^s milk is especially valuable for 
 nearly all varieties as well as for some spe- 
 cial varieties, such as are made in foreign coun- 
 tries. 
 
 In all descriptions of the manufacturing 
 processes an effort has been made to state clear- 
 
PBEFACE. 5 
 
 ly each step so that inexperienced persons may 
 readily succeed in obtaining satisfactory re- 
 sults. All directions do not agree with for- 
 eign recipes, but represent facts which have 
 proved most useful to the author in actual prac- 
 tice, and are here assembled in book form, with 
 the hope that they may prove of equal value to 
 those interested in the manufacture of fancy 
 cheese, or as a text-book for students in agri- 
 cultural colleges and dairy schools. 
 
 Chas. a. Publow. 
 June Ist, 1910. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Brick 24 
 
 Brie 63 
 
 Buttermilk - - - - - - - 81 
 
 Caciocavallo -------- 53 
 
 Caiuembert - - - - - • - i>6 
 
 Caraway-potato - - - - - - - 89 
 
 Casein Making ..-.--. 93 
 
 Cheddar 8 
 
 Cheesemaking Facts ------ 95 
 
 Club - 90 
 
 Commercial Starters .--... g 
 
 Cottage - - - - - - - - 74 
 
 Cream -..--.--. 85 
 
 Edam - - 31 
 
 Emmenthal 26 
 
 Goats' Milk 66 
 
 Gorgonzola - - - - - - - - 41 
 
 Gouda .-..-.. - 35 
 
 Isigny --..--.-- 71 
 
 Limburg ........ Qf 
 
 Milk Composition .---.- 7 
 
 Miniature .... . - - 73 
 
 Munster ........ 4,j 
 
 Neufchatel - . - ... -^-j-92 
 
 Oka ■ - - - - 66 
 
 Olive Cream - . . ... - 90 
 
 Pimento 89 
 
 Pineapple - . . . . . 22 
 
 Pont 1' Eveque --.-..- 49 
 
 Port du Salut - - - - - - - 51 
 
 Eicotto .-.-...- 55 
 
 Boquefort ...... - 43 
 
 Sage 21 
 
 Sandwich-nut - - - - - - - 88 
 
 Skimmed Milk Cheddar - - - • - - 14 
 
 Smearcase - - - - - - - 74 
 
 Stilton 37 
 
 Stirred Curd Cheese - - - - - - 13 
 
 Swiss 26 
 
 Switzer - 26 
 
 Washed Curd Cheddar 13 
 
Fancy Cheese in America. 
 
 MILK COMPOSITION. 
 
 For the convenience of persons who are inter- 
 ested in the handling of cow^s and goat's milk, 
 the following comparative figures of average 
 composition are given: 
 
 Cow's Goat's Human 
 
 milk. milk. milk. 
 
 Water 87.00% 86.50% 87.41% 
 
 Fat 4.00% 4.50% 3.78% 
 
 Casein 2.60% 3.25% 1.85% 
 
 Albumin 70% .82% .44% 
 
 Sugar 5.00% 4.20% 6.21% 
 
 Ash 70% .73% .31% 
 
 100.00% 100.00% 100.00% 
 
 In the making of all varieties of cheese, pure, 
 clean, sweet milk is the greatest requirement. 
 Without this, the cheesemaker's art is very 
 limited, but with it, both quantity and quality 
 in the finished cheese are assured. For meth- 
 ods to be employed in securing a clean milk 
 supply, the reader is referred elsewhere, as 
 space will not permit of even so important a 
 subject in this treatise. No cheese book would 
 be complete, however, without some reference 
 to the preparation and use of commercial cul- 
 
8 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 lures of lactic acid bacteria as starters. Before 
 starting the actual technique of cheesemaking, 
 the question of starters and their use should be 
 familiar to all persons. 
 
 COMMEECIAL StAETERS. 
 
 These are cultures of lactic acid producing 
 bacteria which are prepared by bacteriologists 
 and sold in a commercial way, accompanied by 
 directions for their use. In their preparation 
 for use in cheesemaking, a small quantity of 
 milk (1 to 3 quarts) is heated to the boiling 
 point for several minutes. This treatment de- 
 stroys all living bacteria. The milk is then 
 cooled to a temperature of 90° Fah. and the 
 culture of lactic acid bacteria added. The tem- 
 perature is then allowed to drop gradually to 
 70° Fah., where it is held for 24 hours, or until 
 the milk becomes sour and thickened. A larger 
 quantity of milk is then pasteurized to at least 
 165° Fah. for 30 minutes and cooled to 70° Fah., 
 when the prepared sour milk is added. By a 
 continuance of this procedure a pure, clean, reli- 
 able and uniform starter is available each day, 
 the intelligent use of which will do much in de- 
 termining quality in the cheese. 
 
 Cheddar Cheese. 
 Cheddar cheese derives its name from the vil- 
 lage of Cheddar in England and is the variety 
 of cheese made in largest quantity in Canada 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 9 
 
 and the United States, as well as in some other 
 countries. It is a cheese of firm body, smooth 
 texture, characteristic flavor and possessing 
 long-keeping qualities. It is usually marketed 
 in a number of sizes, which are recognized in 
 the markets as follows : A large cheese, about 
 15 inches in diameter, weighing about 80 lbs., 
 constitutes an ^' export^'; one of similar diam- 
 eter, weighing about 35 lbs., '^a flat,'^ or if 
 shipped two in a box, ** twins'*; a 20-lb. size, 
 **daisies*'; 8 to 10-lb. size, ^^ young Americas*' 
 and a 2-lb. size, ^'midgets." 
 
 Method of Manufacture for Home-trade Ched- 
 dars, 
 Milk is heated to 86° Fah. and ripened by the 
 use of a commercial starter or naturally, until it 
 reaches about .20% acidity. Usually %% to 
 2% of a starter is sufficient to ripen milk. If 
 colored cheese are desired, cheese color at the 
 rate of 1 oz. per 1,000 lbs. of milk is added and 
 stirred evenly through the entire mass. About 
 3 oz. of rennet extract diluted in 20 times its 
 weight of cold water is then added and 4 
 or 5 minutes should be taken in stirring it in. 
 In 8 or 10 minutes after adding the rennet, the 
 milk will commence to thicken, but should not 
 be disturbed for 25 or 30 minutes, or until it has 
 become a fiiTQ, solid mass that will split clean 
 ahead of the finger. When it has reached this 
 
10 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 state it should be cut into small cubes, using 
 first a %-in. horizontal knife lengthwise of the 
 vat, then a 5/16-inch perpendicular knife cross- 
 wise and finally lengthwise of the vat. 
 
 The curd and whey will then begin to sepa- 
 rate and should be stirred gently with a wooden 
 rake or similar instrument to keep the par- 
 ticles from lumping. In a few minutes, or as 
 soon as the whey surrounding the curd shows 
 an acidity of .14%, the temperature should be 
 raised gradually (25 to 30 minutes) to 98° Fah., 
 at which temperature it is held until the par- 
 ticles become firm and springy, and the whey 
 has increased in acidity to .18%. Then the whey 
 should be removed rapidly, so that by the time 
 it is all off and the curd stirred sufficiently dry, 
 the whey running from the curd, which is piled 
 about 8 inches deep along the sides of the vat, 
 will show not more than .26% acid. The opera- 
 tions from the time of adding the rennet till the 
 whey is off requires at least 2 hours* time. 
 
 In 15 minutes, or as soon as the curd has 
 become firmly matted, it should be cut into 
 strips 6 inches wide and turned over. This 
 allows all free whey to escape. The curd should 
 then be turned every 15 minutes until it be- 
 comes meaty in texture and the whey running 
 from it shows .65% acid. It is then ready for 
 milling and should be cut into pieces of uniform 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEBICA. 
 
 11 
 
 Cropper. 
 bottU 
 
 V 
 \ 
 
 burette 
 heWer 
 
 r> 
 
 d-5r4n pipen^ 
 
 V 
 
 CU)» 
 
 The Publow Acid T 
 
12 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 size. After a few minutes' stirring, salt is ap- 
 plied at the rate of about 2 lbs. for each 100 lbs. 
 curd. At least three divisions of the salt are 
 necessary for an even distribution. 
 
 As soon as the curd has become mellow after 
 salting, it should be placed in cheese hoops and 
 pressed. In about one hour they can be re- 
 moved from the press and the bandage pulled 
 up and trimmed. They should then be put back 
 in the press and left for 18 to 24 hrs., when they 
 should be wiped dry and placed on shelves in the 
 curing room and kept at a temperature as near 
 55° Fah. as possible. AVhen 4 or 5 days old 
 they should be dipped for 8 to 10 seconds in 
 hot paraffin at 220° Fah. A coating of paraffin 
 prevents shrinkage and keeps the cheese sur- 
 faces clean. Cheese should be turned on the 
 shelves daily while ripening and should not be 
 offered to consumers until at least one month 
 old. (For a detailed study of cheddar cheese- 
 making, consult ^* Science and Practice of 
 Cheesemaking,'' published by Orange Judd Co., 
 New York City. 
 Compositiofi of Cheddar Cheese. 
 
 Fat 32.00 
 
 Casein 26.00 
 
 Water 37.00 
 
 Sugar, ash, salt, etc. . . . 5.00 
 
 100.00 
 
fancy cheese in ameeica. 13 
 
 Stirred Curd Cheese. 
 
 This is a variety of cheddar cheese, different 
 only in the details of manufacture. The regular 
 cheddar method is followed up to the time of 
 removing the whey. Then instead of allowing 
 the curd to mat into a solid mass, it is stirred 
 sufficiently to keep the small particles sepa- 
 rated until j&rm and rather dry. Salt is then 
 added and the cheese finished in the usual 
 way. This is sometimes called the granular 
 method and was used almost entirely before the 
 days of the curd-mill. 
 
 Washed Curd Cheese. 
 This is another variety of cheddar cheese that 
 has met with favor on certain markets in re- 
 cent years. The cheese are made by the regu- 
 lar cheddar method up to the time of milling 
 the curd, when the curd is immersed in cold 
 water for several minutes before salt is added. 
 About the only advantage in adding the water 
 is to cause the cheese to soften at an early date. 
 If the curd is left in the water five minutes or 
 longer it will increase in weight by absorbing 
 water. The colder the water the more rapidly 
 it is absorbed. At the same time some of the 
 lactic acid, sugar, fat, rennet and salts are 
 removed, with the result that the cheese develop 
 little or no flavor unless they have been soaked 
 in the water too long, when the cheese will spoil 
 
14 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 and smell badly in a short time. The cheese 
 spoil owing to the absence of the natural ripen- 
 ing agents, which have been removed in the 
 water. Abnormal changes then occur through 
 the work of undesirable forms of bacteria. 
 
 The best washed curd cheese are made from 
 the best cheddar curds, which are immersed in 
 pure water at 60"^ F. for not more than 2 to 5 
 minutes. 
 
 Skimmed Milk Cheddae Cheese. 
 
 During recent years, in some states, there has 
 been a marked increase in the number of ched- 
 dar cheese made from skimmed milk. The 
 manufacture of such imitation products has 
 been stimulated by the comparatively high 
 prices paid by buyers, as compared with the 
 market prices of full milk cheddars. Probably 
 this condition is backed up by the fact that 
 cheesemakers are able to remove part of the 
 fat from the milk and replace it with moisture 
 in the cheese, with such skill that the consumer 
 believes he is eating a rich, mellow cheese, when 
 in reality it may have been made from only 2^ 
 skimmed milk. 
 
 The method of manufacture to follow in mak- 
 ing such cheese must vary according to the 
 amount of fat in the milk. The less fat present, 
 the more difficult it is to secure cheese of pass- 
 able quality. The great variation in the fat 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 15 
 
 content of skimmed or partly skimimed milk 
 makes it impossible for one to give accurate 
 directions to be followed as an unmodified rule. 
 We, however, are safe in giving the directions 
 for making up to 2% milk and in making up sep- 
 arator skimmed milk. The maker can then vary 
 the details as he varies the composition of the 
 milk. 
 Cheese from 2% Skimmed Milk. 
 
 Milk should be heated to 84° F. and ripened 
 by some good commercial starter or clean 
 flavored buttermilk, until it shows an acidity 
 of 22%. (It is seldom advisable to use more 
 than 2 pounds of starter to each 100 pounds of 
 milk.) If colored cheese is desired, cheese color 
 is added at this time. Usually one-half ounce to 
 1,000 pounds milk is sufficient. Enough rennet 
 extract (3 ounces [90 c.c] per 1,000 pounds 
 milk) to coagulate the milk fit for cutting in 20 
 minutes is then added after being diluted in 
 20 times its volume of cold water. As soon as 
 the milk is firmly coagulated, it should be cut 
 into cubes about % inch square by the use of 
 horizontal and perpendicular curd knives. The 
 curd is then stirred gently with a wooden rake 
 or agitator to keep the particles separated, and 
 the temperature raised gradually to 92° F. In 
 about 30 minutes after cutting, as soon as the 
 curd begins to feel firm and springy, and as 
 
16 
 
 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEKICA. 
 
 soon as the whey surrounding the curd shows 
 an acidity of .17%, the whey should be quickly 
 removed. While the whey is running off, the 
 curd should Be constantly stirred, in order to 
 insure a proper expulsion of whey and a uni- 
 form color in the cheese. After the whey is 
 
 Cheddar Curd Knives. 
 
 off, the curd is packed about 8 inches deep along 
 the sides of the vat with a space in the center 
 for drainage. The whey running from the curd 
 at this time should contain not over .24% acid. 
 As soon as the particles have become firmly 
 matted, the curd should be cut into strips 8 to 
 10 inches wide and turned bottom side up. In 
 
Stilton Cheese. 
 (See Page 37 ) 
 
 Cross-section of a drum Swiss cheese, showing location, size 
 and glossy condition of the ' ' eyes. ' ' 
 
 (See Page 26.) 
 

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 jH 
 
 
 
 
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 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 Pl 
 
 Photograph showing amount of cheddar cheese available iv 
 100 pounds of 3%, 49c, 5% and 6% milk. 
 
 (See Page 9.) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 Bk 
 
 
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 ^t* 
 
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 **^ ^IBBi^tt»v.<v 
 
 'SS^ 
 
 
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 Style of pineapple molds nsed at the New York State College 
 
 of Agriculture. 
 
 (See Page 22.) 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 17 
 
 15 minutes more the pieces can be piled two 
 or three deep, and turned every 15 minutes 
 afterward until the curd becomes meaty in 
 grain and the whey running from it contains 
 .65% acid. It is then milled and salted, 1% to 2 
 pounds to each 100 pounds of curd. The re- 
 maining procedure is similar to the regular 
 cheddar method. A coating of paraffin placed 
 on skimmed milk cheese when four or five days 
 old is specially valuable in preventing shrink- 
 age and drying. It is possible by this method 
 to make cheese from partly skimmed milk that 
 are veiy difficult to distinguish from full milk 
 cheese, and they usually sell within 1 to 1% 
 cents per pound under the market for fancy 
 goods. 
 
 Cheddar Cheese from Separator Shimmed Milk. 
 
 By no known method is it possible to make a 
 really fine cheese from full skimmed milk; but 
 by replacing the fat with an excessive amount 
 of whey or water it is possible to make cheese 
 that can be readily sold to a certain trade, and 
 which have sold for as high as 10 cents per 
 pound wholesale. 
 
 The skimmed milk is heated to 84° F. and ri- 
 pened to .24% acid by the addition of commer- 
 cial starter or buttermilk. It is advisable to use 
 as much starter as can be safely handled with- 
 out making the cheese too acid, as commercial 
 
18 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 starter and buttermilk both have a softening 
 effect upon cheese texture. Usually from 5 to 
 6 pounds to 100 pounds of skimmed milk is 
 sufficient. Little coloring should be used, as 
 skimmed milk cheese are usually high enough 
 in natural color. When the milk is ripened to 
 the proper degree, 4 ounces of rennet per 1000 
 pounds milk, diluted in 20 times its weight of 
 cold water, is added and thoroughly stirred into 
 the milk for 3 minutes. The milk is then left 
 undisturbed until coagulated firmly, when it is 
 cut into cubes with the regular curd knives. 
 After cutting, the curd is stirred gently for 5 
 minutes, or until the particles become ^'healed" 
 over and begin to contract. The whey is then 
 quickly removed and the curd piled, without 
 stirring, at least 12 inches deep in the upper 
 end of the vat, without a drain being made in 
 the center. The whey running from the curd 
 after packing should contain not over .22% 
 acid. As soon as the curd becomes firmly 
 matted (usually about 15 minutes) it is cut 
 into large pieces and turned. In 15 minutes 
 more it is ready for milling. After milling it 
 should be rinsed off with pure cold water and 
 salted 1% pounds to each 100 pounds of curd. 
 In a few minutes the curd can be pressed and 
 finished in the same manner as full milk cheese. 
 Cheese of this nature shrink rapidly while cur- 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 19 
 
 ing, unless paraffined. The paraffin can usually 
 be satisfactorily applied when the cheese are 
 3 to 4 days old. When ripened at a temperature 
 of 70° F. these cheese become ready for con- 
 sumption in about 30 days. 
 
 Cheddar Cheese from Pasteurised Milk, 
 
 It has always been considered impossible to 
 make fine cheddar cheese from pasteurized milk. 
 The effects of heat upon the enzymes and salts 
 in milk are such as to materially change its 
 nature in many ways. These changes are noted, 
 first, when rennet is added to milk that has been 
 pasteurized. It does not coagulate unless left 
 for hours, because the heat has rendered the 
 soluble calcium milk salts insoluble, thereby pre- 
 venting the combined action of rennet, calcium 
 and casein, which causes the precipitation of 
 casein and the coagulation of the milk. When 
 soluble calcium salts are added to pasteurized 
 milk, rennet readily coagulates it, but the curd 
 does not contract or firm in the whey, and after 
 the whey has been removed the particles of curd 
 fail to unite properly, with the result that the 
 cheese is of a mealy, ** sawdust-like'^ body. The 
 writer has succeeded, however, in experiments 
 conducted in ^the New York State College of 
 Agriculture in making a uniformly fancy, long- 
 keeping and quick-ripening cheese from milk 
 
20 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 heated sufficiently higli to kill practically all 
 bacteria. The method is as follows: 
 
 Milk, after pasteurization to 165° F., is cooled 
 to 90° F. Two c.c. of a 25% solution of calcium 
 chloride is then added for each 100 pounds milk, 
 and followed by 2 to 3% commercial lactic acid 
 culture. Three ounces of rennet extract to each 
 1000 pounds of milk is then distributed through 
 the milk. In about 5 minutes coagulation takes 
 place, but the curd does not become firm enough 
 for cutting in the usual time and should not be 
 cut before it is firm. Usually about 40 minutes 
 elapse from the time of first coagulation until 
 the curd can be properly handled. After cut- 
 ting, the method is similar to the regular ched- 
 dar process. The success of this procedure is 
 based on getting a firm coagulation and a 
 proper precipitation of the particles of casein, 
 which are slow to unite after precipitation. 
 The advantages of pasteurizing milk for Ched- 
 dar cheesemaking are as follows : 
 
 1. Milk of undesirable flavor, containing gas- 
 producing bacteria and other ''not-wanted^* 
 forms, can be successfully made into good 
 cheese. 
 
 2. A uniform raw material is available each 
 day. 
 
 3. By the use of proper cultures of lactic 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 21 
 
 acid bacteria, a uniformly high grade cheese 
 should be made every day. 
 
 4. Danger of transmission of disease in the 
 cheese and whey is eliminated. 
 
 5. Milk that otherwise could not be accepted 
 by cheesemakers can, after pasteurization, be 
 made into good cheese. 
 
 Cheese made in this manner from pasteurized 
 milk can be recognized by its noticeably clean, 
 rich, mild flavor. Even after several months the 
 flavor does not become strong. This fact is 
 probably explained by the fact that undesirable 
 bacteria and their products are practically elim- 
 inated by pasteurization of the milk. As inves- 
 tigations and experiments are continued we may 
 expect that more light may be thrown on the 
 causes of cheese ripening and cheese flavors, but 
 from a practical standpoint, it is now certain 
 that Cheddar cheese can be successfully made on 
 a commercial basis from pasteurized milk. 
 
 Sage Cheese. 
 Sage cheese is another modified form of the 
 Cheddar variety. Its distinguishing features 
 are a mottled green color and a sage flavor. The 
 usual method of manufacture is as follows : One- 
 third of the total amount of milk is placed in a 
 vat by itself and colored green by the addition 
 of 8 to 12 ounces of commercial sage color to 
 each 1,000 pounds of milk. If green corn leaves 
 
22 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 or other substances are used for coloiing the 
 amounts will vary accordingly. The milk is 
 then made up by the regular cheddar method, 
 as is also the remaining two-thirds, in a sepa- 
 rate vat. At the time of removing the whey 
 the green and white curds are mixed. Some 
 prefer, however, to mix the curds at the time of 
 milling, as a more distinct color is secured. 
 After milling, the sage extract flavoring is 
 sprayed over the curd with an atomizer. The 
 curd is then salted and pressed into the regular 
 cheddar shapes and sizes. 
 
 A very satisfactory sage cheese is made at 
 the New York State College of Agriculture by 
 simply droppmg green coloring, made from the 
 leaves of corn and spinach, upon the curd, after 
 milling. An even green mottling is thus easily 
 secured without additional labor. Sage flavor- 
 ing extract is sprayed over the curd by an atom- 
 izer. One-half ounce of flavoring is usually suf- 
 ficient for 100 pounds of curd and can be se- 
 cured from dairy supply houses. 
 
 Pineapple Cheese. 
 Pineapple cheese is so called because of its 
 appearance, resembling the shape of a pine- 
 apple. These cheese were first made in the State 
 of Connecticut, but are now made by a number 
 of concerns in New York State and a few others. 
 The market for pineapple cheese is very limited, 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 23 
 
 owing to the high prices for which they must 
 sell in order to repay the manufacturers for the 
 large amount of work required in manufactur- 
 ing and ripening the cheese. 
 
 Methods of Manufacture. 
 
 The milk is placed in a regular cheddar cheese 
 vat and heated to 88° F. A small amount of 
 commercial starter (V^fo to %%) is then added 
 and the milk ripened to .20% acid. Three ounces 
 of cheese color is mixed thoroughly in every 
 1,000 pounds of milk and when the proper de- 
 gree of acidity is reached, rennet extract, di- 
 luted in 20 times its weight of cold water, is 
 added at the rate of 2% ounces to each 1,000 
 pounds of milk. In 25 or 30 minutes the milk 
 should be firmly coagulated and fit for cutting, 
 which is similar to the method of cutting in 
 malting cheddar cheese. After cutting the curd 
 is stirred gently by hand or with a wooden rake 
 for 10 minutes, or until the cubes of curd be- 
 come ^* healed'' over and commence to contract. 
 The temperature is then raised gradually (25 
 to 35 minutes) to 115'' F., or even 120° F., where 
 it is held until the curd becomes very firm and 
 the acidity of the whey reaches .18%. The whey 
 is then removed and the curd placed in the 
 hoops or molds. When the molds are half 
 filled, a small amount of salt is added and then 
 the balance of the curd is put in. Pressure is 
 
24 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEKICA. 
 
 applied to the hoops until the cheese assume 
 their required shape, when they are taken out 
 and dipped in warm whey or warm water at a 
 temperature of 120° to 125° F. for 2 or 3 min- 
 utes. They are then placed in individual nets 
 and hung up until the diamond-shaped spaces 
 of the netting become permanently impressed in 
 the cheese surface, when they are removed, 
 rubbed with salt and placed in the curing room, 
 which should be held at a temperature close to 
 65° F. The cheese being very firm require 4 
 to 6 months to ripen and during this time are 
 frequently rubbed with boiled linseed oil, which 
 makes the surface smooth and hard. One hun- 
 dred pounds of 4% milk yields 6 to 7 pounds of 
 pineapple cheese, which retails for as much as 
 60 cents per pound. 
 
 Composition of Pineapple Cheese. 
 
 Water 12.00% 
 
 Fat 44.00% 
 
 Casein 38.00% 
 
 Ash, salt, acid, etc. . . 6.00% 
 
 100.00% 
 
 Brick Cheese. 
 
 Brick cheese is purely an American product 
 
 and receives its name from its resemblance in 
 
 shape to the common brick. In quality, this 
 
 cheese is somewhat similar to Limburg, but is 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEBICA. 25 
 
 finner and more rubbery, and the round, shiny 
 holes, which form while the cheese is ripening, 
 are not unlike those of Swiss or Emmental 
 cheese. 
 
 Method of Manufacture. 
 
 Clean, sweet milk is heated to 86° F. The 
 acidity of the -milk should not be over .16%, For 
 this reason, little or no starter is added, but 
 the milk is set, in the vat, immediately after its 
 arrival at the factory, 21/2 to 3 ounces of rennet 
 diluted in cold water being used for each 1,000 
 pounds of milk. In 25 to 35 minutes, or as soon 
 as the curd is firm, it is cut into small cubes 
 with the regular cheddar curd knives and 
 stirred carefully for 10 minutes, when the tem- 
 perature is gradually (20 to 25 minutes) raised 
 to 110° F. to 115° F. The curd is constantly 
 stirred with a wooden rake until it becomes firm 
 and springy, when it is dipped into the brick- 
 shaped molds. The acidity of the whey at this 
 time should not be over — .14%. The molds, 
 which are bottomless and measure 10x6x6 
 inches, are placed on a draining table. As soon 
 as they have been filled with curd they are cov- 
 ered by cotton cloth, a wooden or metal fol- 
 lower is put on and 1 or 2 bricks are used on 
 each cheese for pressure. During the follow- 
 ing 18 hours the molds are occasionally turned 
 and as soon as the cheese are properly pressed 
 
26 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 tliey are taken out and rubbed all over with 
 salt. The salting is repeated each day for 3 
 days, and during the interval the cheese are 
 piled 3 or 4 high. Brick cheese ripen rather 
 slowly and require a temperature of 65° F. to 
 68° F., as well as a moist atmosphere. During 
 the ripening, which requires at least 2 months, 
 the cheese are occasionally rubbed by hand and 
 moistened with water to keep the surfaces free 
 from cracks and the growth of mold. When 
 ready for market these cheese have a pro- 
 nounced, sweet flavor, an open body filled with 
 round, glossy holes, and retail for 20 to 25 cents 
 per pound. 
 
 Composition of Brick Cheese. 
 
 Water 32.00% 
 
 Fat 36.00% 
 
 Casein 28.00% 
 
 Ash, salt, acid, etc. . . 4.00 7© 
 
 100.00% 
 Swiss, SwiTZEE OB Emmenthaler Cheese. 
 All these names are applied to a type of 
 cheese that is very popular in almost all coun- 
 tries of the world. Originally it was made in 
 the canton of Emmental, Switzerland, where it 
 is known only as Emmental cheese. In America, 
 where it is made in large quantities, it is better 
 known under the names of Swiss and Switzer. 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 27 
 
 Swiss cheese is very similar to Cheddar cheese, 
 but has a more salty taste and the body is made 
 porous by the presence of large, round, glossy 
 holes or *^eyes.'' They are made in several 
 sizes, the two most common being the ** block,'' 
 which measures 6 inches square, 20 inches long, 
 and weighs 25 to 30 pounds ; and the ^ * drum, ' ' 
 which measures 36 inches in diameter, 5 to 6 
 inches in thickness and weighs 175 to 200 
 pounds. 
 
 Methods of Manufacture. 
 
 The foreign method of manufacture is slight- 
 ly different from the American, especially in the 
 apparatus used, but the style and quality of the 
 cheese are in no way different. Clean, sweet 
 milk is placed in a copper kettle or cheese vat, 
 heated to 90 "^ F. and ripened by the addition of 
 a small amount (not over %%) of lactic acid 
 culture to an acidity of .165% to .170%. Eennet 
 extract diluted in cold water is then added at 
 the rate of 3 ounces per 1,000 pounds of milk, 
 and after a thorough mixing by 3 minutes of 
 stirring, the milk is left undisturbed until it is 
 firmly coagulated, when it is cut into small 
 cubes. When the milk is in copper kettles the 
 curd is usually cut with a ^^harp" (an instru- 
 ment very similar to a perpendicular wire Ched- 
 dar curd knife, with a long handle and wires 1 
 inch apart) into pieces 1 inch in diameter, and 
 
28 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEBICA. 
 
 then stirred with a wire basket fastened to the 
 end of a stick 5 or 6 feet long. The stirring 
 breaks the curd into small pieces about the size 
 of those required in making cheddar cheese. 
 Cutting and breaking the curd in this manner 
 causes a large loss of fat in the whey, and the 
 pieces are not uniform in size. By using the 
 5/16-inch cheddar curd knives instead of the 
 harp and basket, the curd can be cut into pieces 
 of uniform size, a uniform expulsion of whey 
 can be secured and the fat loss can be reduced 
 over 50%. After a few minutes* stirring, heat 
 is applied to the vat of kettle and the tempera- 
 ture raised in 20 to 25 minutes to 135° F. to 
 140° F. The stirring is continued until the 
 curd is very firm and rubbery, when it is allowed 
 to settle to the bottom. The acidity of the whey 
 at this time should be .14% to .145%. The tem- 
 perature by this time will probably have cooled 
 to 110° F. or 115° F. As soon as the curd is 
 firm enough and of the proper acidity (.15% to 
 .16%) the curd is removed from the whey and 
 placed in the forms or hoops, which are lined 
 with cotton. Pressure is then applied, rather 
 lightly for the first 30 minutes, then heavy and 
 continuous for 24 hours. During this time the 
 presses should be loosened up, the cheese taken 
 from the hoops, all rough edges trimmed off and 
 the bandage cloth made free from wrinkles. 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 29 
 
 This operation may have to be repeated 2 or 3 
 times during the day and when the cloths are re- 
 applied they are first dipped in hot water to 
 assist in producing a good rind on the cheese. 
 
 When sufficiently pressed, the cheese are 
 taken from the hoops and placed in a strong 
 salt solution for 3 days, or salt may be rubbed 
 on the surfaces. When brine salting is used, 
 the brine should be concentrated enough to float 
 an egg. The cheese will also float and should 
 be turned each day, so that all parts may absorb 
 the same amount of salt. When dry salting is 
 practiced, the cheese are placed in salting molds 
 and as much salt as will be absorbed during the 
 night is sprinkled over the top. Dry salt is 
 applied in this manner on 4 or 5 consecutive 
 days. Brine salting is more satisfactory as 
 there is a more even distribution of salt in the 
 cheese, a more uniform development of gas and 
 a better formation of the '*eyes.^* 
 
 When taken from the brine tank, the cheese 
 are placed in a room where the temperature is 
 kept at 70° F. and the moisture at 80%. Here 
 the cheese remain for at least 7 days, or until 
 the ^^eyes^' have formed. This point can be de- 
 termined by tapping the top of the cheese with 
 the fingers. If the eyes are present a hollow 
 sound is produced. They are then placed in a 
 cooler cellar, when the temperature is retained 
 
30 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 at 60° F. and the moisture at 80%. Here tlie 
 cheese remain for several weeks until properly 
 ripened, and during this time should be turned 
 at least twice a week on the shelves. The yield 
 of Swiss cheese is about 10 pounds from 100 
 pounds of milk. 
 
 Defects in Swiss Cheese, 
 
 All the common defects found in Cheddar 
 cheese are found in Swiss cheese, and for the 
 causes and remedies of these the reader is re- 
 ferred to * ' Science and Practice of Cheesemak- 
 ing,'* published by Orange Judd Co., of New 
 York. In addition to these, however, we have 
 the special defects in the texture of Swiss 
 cheese, most important of which is the im- 
 proper formation of the ' ' eyes. ' ' A cheese with- 
 out *^eyes^' is said to be * ^ blind' ^; one with 
 small pin-holes is called a **niszler*'; one with 
 flat, narrow slits is called a ^^glaesler.'^ These 
 defects are easily prevented by paying strict 
 attention to the acidity and cleanliness of the 
 milk and starter, to the temperature of the curd 
 and the curing rooms, and to the even distri- 
 bution of the salt. Salt, low temperature and 
 dry air all tend to check the formation of 
 ^ * eyes. ' ' High temperature and excessive mois- 
 tvire causes a too rapid formation of gas, a poor 
 quality of eyes and undesirable flavors. 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 31 
 
 Composition of Stviss Cheese, 
 
 Fat 33.00% 
 
 Casein 24.00% 
 
 Water 38.00% 
 
 Ash, salt, acid, etc. . . 5.00% 
 
 100.00% 
 
 Edam Cheese. 
 Edam cheese receives its name from the place, 
 Edam, in Holland, where most of the cheese of 
 that country are first marketed. A large quan- 
 tity is imported to America annually, and are 
 easily recognized by their round, ball shape and 
 red color. Edam cheese can be made equally 
 well in America as in Holland, and when we con= 
 sider the high prices for which they sell, it 
 seems strange that American manufacturers do 
 not include this variety in their regular output. 
 
 Method of Manufacture. 
 
 Edam cheese was originally made from un- 
 adulterated cow^s milk, but most of it is now 
 made from milk which has had at least one-half 
 of its fat removed. The milk should be perfect- 
 ly fresh and is heated in a cheese vat to 90° F., 
 when cheese color is added, II/2 to 2 ounces per 
 1,000 pounds of milk. As soon as the color has 
 been thoroughly distributed, enough rennet 
 extract (5 ounces per 1,000 pounds of milk) to 
 coagulate the milk fit for cutting in 15 minutes. 
 
32 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 is diluted in 20 times its weight of cold water 
 and mixed quickly and thoroughly with the milk. 
 Coagulation commences in 4 or 5 minutes, but 
 the curd should not be disturbed until it is firm 
 and splits cleanly ahead of the finger, when it is 
 cut in a similar manner as in cheddar cheese- 
 making. After cutting the curd is stirred care- 
 fully for 15 minutes, during which time the tem- 
 perature is raised to 95^ F. The curd by this 
 time will have begun to contract and firm, so the 
 whey should be allowed to run off until the 
 upper surface of the curd appears. The curd and 
 remaining whey is now dipped into the press 
 molds, which should be lined with cheese cloth to 
 insure a smooth surface on the cheese. When 
 the press molds are filled the covers are put on 
 and pressure of 25 to 30 pounds applied steadily 
 for 30 minutes or until the cheese assume their 
 form. They are then taken from the molds, 
 dipped for 2 minutes in hot whey at 125° F., 
 freed from rough edges, covered evenly with 
 strips of cheese cloth and returned to the press 
 molds, where they are left, under light but 
 steady pressure, for 10 to 12 hours. Edam 
 cheese molds are frequently made of wood, but 
 galvanized iron is much better, as it does not 
 expand and contract like wood, or require so 
 much attention to keep it in a sanitary con- 
 dition. 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 33 
 
 When the cheese are sufficiently pressed they 
 are taken from the press molds, rubbed with 
 salt and placed in the salting molds, where they 
 remain for 5 or 6 days, being rubbed each day 
 with salt and the ends reversed in the molds in 
 order to prevent irregular shaping of the ends. 
 
 Edam Cheese Mold. 
 
 Sometimes the cheese are salted by being im- 
 mersed in a strong brine for several days, but 
 dry salting gives better results and the surfaces 
 do not crack so readily. After the cheese have 
 been in the salting molds 5 or 6 days they are 
 taken out, washed with hot whey, dried with a 
 cloth and placed in a moist curing room with a 
 
34 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 humidity of 80% and a temperature of 60° F. 
 Here they are turned daily for the first week 
 and then twice a week until 4 or 5 w^eks old, 
 when they are washed with water at 70° F., 
 placed in the sun to dry and rubbed with boiled 
 linseed oil. The oil makes the surface smooth 
 and hard and helps to prevent cracking. By the 
 time the cheese are 6 to 8 weeks old they are 
 colored red by being immersed for a few min- 
 utes in an alcoholic solution of carmine or Ber- 
 lin red. As soon as they are dry, they are again 
 nibbed with linseed oil, wrapped neatly in tin- 
 foil and packed, 12 in a box, for shipment. Occa- 
 sionally they are exported in sealed, air-tight 
 tin cans. 
 
 Edam cheese, when ready for market, weigh 
 3% to 4 pounds, and usually retail for at least 
 30 cents per pound. When cut, the flavor is 
 seen to be mild, the taste somewhat salt, the 
 body dry, firm or crumbly and the texture al- 
 most entirely free from holes. 
 
 Composition of Edam Cheese. 
 
 Fat 29.00 
 
 Casein 35.00 
 
 Water 30.00 
 
 Ash salt, acids, etc 6.00 
 
 100.00 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 35 
 
 GouDA Cheese. 
 
 This is another variety of cheese that receives 
 its name from that of a town in Holland. 
 In shape they resemble one of our small 
 ** Daisy" cheese that has swelled or ** puffed 
 up*' at both ends. They are made in several 
 sizes, ranging from 8 to 45 pounds. A consider- 
 able quantity is imported to America annually, 
 especially of the 10-pound size, which come 
 
 Gouda Press Mold and Cheese. 
 
 wrapped in a bladder or animal membrane. 
 Gouda cheese can be made equally well in Amer- 
 ica as in Holland. 
 
 Method of Manufacture, 
 
 Fresh, clean milk is placed in a cheese vat, 
 heated to 90° F., and colored at the rate of 1 
 ounce of annatto to 1,000 pounds of milk. 
 Enough rennet extract (5 ounces per 1,000 
 pounds of milk) to give a firm coagulation in 
 15 minutes is then added, and as soon as the 
 curd will split cleanly ahead of the finger it is 
 
36 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 cut into small pieces by the use of the smallest 
 meshed cheddar curd knives. After cutting, as 
 in the cheddar method, an additional cut is made 
 by running the horizontal knife lengthwise of 
 the vat. The curd is then stirred carefully and 
 the temperature raised in 30 minutes to 104° 
 or 106° F. In 30 to 45 minutes the curd should 
 be very firm, like rubber, and make a squeak- 
 ing sound when squeezed in the hand or pressed 
 between the teeth. At this time the whey should 
 have .115% to .12% acid. 
 
 The whey is then taken off and the curd 
 placed in the molds, which are first lined with 
 cheesecloth. The cheese are then put under a 
 pressure of 50 to 100 pounds for 30 minutes, 
 when they will have assumed their form. They 
 are now removed from the molds, trimmed free 
 of rough edges, neatly wrapped with cheesecloth 
 and returned to the molds under light but 
 steady pressure for at least 12 hours. When 
 sufficiently pressed, the cheese are again re- 
 moved from the molds and rubbed with dry salt 
 each day for 10 days. At the end of 10 days 
 they are thoroughly washed in water at 120° 
 F., dried with clean cloths and placed on shelves 
 in the curing room, where they are turned every 
 2 or 3 days until ready for market. The curing 
 room air should have at least 80% moisture and 
 be kept at a temperature as near 60° F. as pos- 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 37 
 
 sible. If the room is too moist or too warm the 
 surface of the cheese may become moldy or 
 covered with slime. If such does occur, the 
 cheese should be again washed with water at 
 90° F. and wiped dry. 
 
 Gouda cheese are seldom fit for consumption 
 before they are 4 or 5 months old, and before 
 being placed on the market the outside is col- 
 ored by dipping in a solution of saffron. About 
 10 pounds of Gouda cheese is available from 100 
 pounds of average cow's milk, and the retail 
 price is usually above 25 cents a pound. 
 
 Composition of Gowda Cheese, 
 
 Fat 35% 
 
 Casein 24% 
 
 Water 36% 
 
 Ash, salt, acid, etc 5% 
 
 100% 
 
 L.--'^ Stilton Cheese. 
 
 Stilton cheese is said to have originated in 
 Leicestershire county, England, and to this day 
 its manufacture is confined almost entirely to 
 England. A large quantity of Stilton is im- 
 ported to America annually, where it is held in 
 high favor. In size, Stilton cheese resemble 
 our *^ Young American" cheddars, weigh about 
 12 pounds each, and when marketed have a coat- 
 ing of blue mold and a very wrinkled surface. 
 
 / 
 
38 FANCT CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 Method of Manufacture, 
 
 In makiiig the best Stilton cheese, two sepa- 
 rately made curds are used. This is done with 
 the idea of getting more air-spaces in the body 
 of the cheese, as two separately made curds do 
 not unite as readily as curd from the same vat. 
 
 Clean, fresh, morning's milk is placed in a 
 cheese vat and heated to 84° F. Rennet extract 
 at the rate of 1 ounce to 1,000 pounds of milk is 
 then added in cold water and stirred thoroughly 
 throughout the entire mass. In 60 to 90 minutes 
 the milk should be firmly coagulated, as in mak- 
 ing Cheddar cheese. When it has reached this 
 condition it is cut lengthwise of the vat with 
 a horizontal curd knife and immediately ladled 
 out of the vat into straining cloths placed in a 
 curd sink. Each cloth is about 36 inches square 
 and holds about 30 pounds. As soon as all the 
 cloths are filled, they are tightened around the 
 curd by bringing together the three comers and 
 using the fourth as a binder. They are then 
 packed closely together in the curd sink and the 
 comers tightened every hour for 8 hours. In 
 the evening the curd is cut into squares about 
 4 inches square and laid in the draining sink, 
 with a light cotton cloth over it, where it re- 
 mains till the following morning. 
 
 The evening's milk is treated in the same 
 manner as the morning's milk, being allowed to 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 39 
 
 drain during the night, while in the curd sink. 
 In the morning the evening's cnrd is cut into 
 pieces 4 inches square. As soon as the morn- 
 ing's curd has an acidity of .65% and the eve- 
 ning's curd an acidity of .45% the two curds 
 are milled or broken up by hand and salted at 
 the rate of I14 pounds to 100 pounds curd. In 
 10 minutes, or as soon as the salt dissolves, 
 the curd is put in the hoops, which are lined 
 with cheese cloth, similar to cheddar hoops. 
 Sometimes molded bread crumbs are distributed 
 over the curd at the time of salting. In J&lling 
 the hoops the curd should be packed firmly in 
 the center but left rather loose at the outside. 
 
 No pressure is used in making Stilton cheese. 
 The hoops are placed on draining boards or 
 shelves, turned or inverted two or three times 
 during the day, and once each day for the next 
 9 days. Neglect in turning causes uneven ripen- 
 ing. At the end of 9 days the cheese will have 
 begun to shrink away from the edges of the 
 hoops, and to get soft on the outside. They 
 are then removed from the hoops and scraped 
 with a knife. The scraping makes a smooth, 
 even surface, fills up cracks and aids in the pro- 
 duction of the much-desired wrinkling of the 
 rind. After the cheese have been scraped they 
 are bandaged with cheese cloth and cap cloths 
 and returned to the hoops till the following 
 
40 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 day, when they are again scraped, if necessary, 
 and a clean bandage pinned loosely about the 
 cheese. They are now placed on draining 
 boards or shelves, without the hoop, and left 
 for 2 or 3 days, or until the growth of mold 
 begins on the outside. On the appearance of 
 mold, the bandage is removed and the cheese 
 removed to a damp curing cellar, where the 
 temperature should be maintained as near 55° 
 F, as possible. Here the cheese are left for 
 several months, and twice a week should be 
 turned on the shelves. The shelves should be 
 kept in a clean condition and clean cloths placed 
 under each cheese. If molded bread crumbs are 
 not mixed with the curd, the cheese are pierced 
 or skewered at the ends to permit the entrance 
 of mold into the center of the cheese. 
 
 When ready for market, Stilton cheese pre- 
 sent a drab-colored, rough, wrinkled surface, a 
 mellow, soft texture, a marbled or mottled color 
 due to the growth of a blue mold (Pencillium 
 glaucum), and the flavor resembles that of but- 
 ternuts. The retail price for Stilton cheese 
 sometimes reaches 75 cents a pound. 
 Composition of Stilton Cheese. 
 
 Fat 36% 
 
 Casein 26% 
 
 Water 32% 
 
 Ash, salt, acid, etc. . 6% 
 
 100%^ 
 
5v_^' 
 
 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 41 
 
 ^ GORQONZOLA ChEESB. "^ 
 
 Gorgonzola cheese belongs to the blue molded / 
 variety and originated in Italy, being named 
 after the village of the same name. A large 
 quantity is imported into America annually. 
 Gorgonzola cheese are cylindrical in shape, 
 about 12 inches in diameter and 4 inches high. 
 The surface is covered with a thin coating re- 
 sembling clay, prepared by mixing barite or 
 gypsum, lard and coloring matter. When re- 
 ceived in America they are wrapped in paper 
 and packed with straw in wicker baskets and 
 retail for about 50 cents a pound. 
 
 Method of Manufacture. 
 
 Gorgonzola cheese is made equally well from 
 the milk of cows and goats. It is made from 
 two separately made curds, similar to the pro- 
 cedure in making Stilton cheese. Fresh, clean 
 morning's milk is brought to a temperature of 
 82° F. and coagulated by the addition of 4 
 ounces of rennet extract to each 1,000 pounds of 
 milk. When firmly coagulated, it is cut into 
 very small pieces and placed in draining cloths 
 in a curd sink. Every hour during the day 
 the cloths are tightened about the curd, to as- 
 sist in expelling the whey. In about 8 hours 
 from the time of adding the rennet the curd is 
 cut into pieces about 4 inches square and left 
 under a cotton cover till the following day. 
 
42 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEBICA. 
 
 The night's milk is made up in a similar man- 
 ner, but instead of cutting the curd into pieces 
 4 inches square, it is broken up and mixed with 
 the curd of the morning's milk. A small quan- 
 tity of molded bread crumbs is also mixed with 
 the curds. The idea of mixing the older curd 
 with more acid and the newer one is to secure 
 a more or less porous body in the cheese, as two 
 curds of different temperatures and acidity do 
 not unite as readily as the particles of a single 
 curd. The open body is conducive to a growth of 
 mold in the cheese. This is stimulated by the 
 addition of moldy bread crumbs, which act as a 
 * ^ starter. ' ' 
 
 After the curds have been mixed they are 
 packed loosely into the forms, which are lined 
 with cheese cloth, and placed on straw matting. 
 The curd is not pressed. It is left to unite un- 
 der its own weight. To bring this about, the 
 forms should be turned every few hours for 
 about 5 days and clean cloths put on occasion- 
 ally. When the cheese have assumed their 
 proper form they are placed in a moist room, 
 at 68° F. In 2 or 3 days a fine growth of white 
 fungus will have started on the outside. This 
 indicates that the cheese are ready for salt- 
 ing. The surface of the cheese is then entirely 
 covered by gently sprinkling on the salt and 
 then rubbing it in with the hands. Salt is ap- 
 

 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 43 
 
 plied in this manner each day for at least 14 
 days. When this process has been completed 
 the texture of the cheese should be examined. 
 If it is too close to permit the proper growth 
 of mold, the cheese is pierced a number of times 
 in both ends with metal skewers. The holes 
 thus formed admit oxygen, which is necessary 
 for the growth of mold. The cheese are then 
 placed in a moist curing room, at 55° F., upon 
 straw mats, and turned twice a week until 12 
 weeks old, when they should be ready for mar- 
 ket. In Italy the cheese are cured in caves, 
 where a soft breeze continually blows. During 
 the ripening process several varieties of mold 
 grow on the outside of the cheese, but this coat- 
 ing is removed before the cheese are prepared 
 for market. 
 
 Composition of Gorgonzola Cheese, 
 
 Fat 34% 
 
 Casein 26% 
 
 Water 36% 
 
 Salt, acid, ash, etc 4% 
 
 100% 
 
 EoQUEFORT Cheese. 
 Koquefort cheese is of French origin and re- 
 ceives its name from the village of Eoquefort. 
 It belongs to the firm, molded type, resembling 
 very closely the Stilton variety. The cheese, 
 
44 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 which are round and flat, measure about 8V2 
 inches in diameter, 2 inches deep, and weigh 4 
 to 5 pounds. Eoquefort cheese is one of the 
 most popular varieties of molded cheese and 
 sells for about 60 cents a pound in America. 
 Eecently it has been put up in sealed jars, simi- 
 lar to the well-known club cheese, and in this 
 form it seems to meet with favor. 
 
 Method of Manufacture, 
 
 The real Eoquefort cheese is made from the 
 milk of sheep and goats, but a very good imi- 
 tation can be made from cow's milk. Clean, 
 sweet milk is placed in a cheese vat and ripened 
 by the addition of %% to %% lactic acid cul- 
 ture to an acidity of .18%. The temperature 
 is raised to 90° F., and rennet extract, diluted 
 in 10 times its volume of cold water, is then 
 added at the rate of 3 ounces per 1,000 pounds 
 of milk. Three minutes gives sufficient time for 
 mixing rennet with milk. In 10 to 15 minutes 
 after the rennet is added the milk begins to co- 
 agulate, but it should be left undisturbed for 
 60 to 90 minutes, when it is cut with very coarse 
 knives into cubes about 1 inch square. A good 
 rule for determining the time of cutting is to 
 multiply the time from adding the rennet to 
 first thickening by 6. 
 
 After cutting, the curd is not stirred, but set- 
 tles to the bottom of the vat. The whey is then 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 45 
 
 removed and the curd dipped into the hoops, 
 which are lined with cheese cloth. The acidity 
 of the whey at the time of dipping should not 
 be above .15%. In filling the hoops, special 
 care is necessary. Each hoop is filled one-third 
 full, then a thin layer of molded bread crumbs, 
 then one-third more curd, another layer of 
 molded bread crumbs, and the filling layer 
 of curd. The object of using the molded bread 
 crumbs is to start a growth of mold through 
 the cheese, which is necessary for the proper 
 ripening. 
 
 When the hoops are filled, light pressure (10 
 pounds) is applied for 1 hour. The cheese are 
 then turned in the hoops, rough edges are 
 trimmed off, the press cloths are dipped in hot 
 water and wrapped around the cheese, which 
 are then returned to the press for 12 to 14 
 hours. On the morning after the cheese are 
 made they are taken from the hoops and 
 wrapped in fresh, wet cotton cloths and placed 
 on shelves in a curing room, where the tempera- 
 ture should be kept at 58° F. and the relative 
 humidity at 80%. Here the cheese remain for 
 10 to 12 days, being turned on the shelves every 
 day and fresh cloths put on. Patches of a thin 
 coating of blue mold may appear on the sur- 
 faces, and this is wiped off each day. At the 
 end of 10 or 12 days the cheese are rubbed thor- 
 
46 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 oughly with dry salt and transferred to the 
 second curing room, or ripening cave, where 
 the temperature should be kept below 50° F., 
 with good ventilation. In France natural caves 
 provide these conditions, but in America our 
 ice-cooled rooms answer the purpose. After 
 the cheese have been in the cool-room or cave 
 for 2 or 3 days they are scraped with a knife 
 ' and rubbed with a dry cloth or brush. This 
 treatment tends to prevent an increased growth 
 of mold on the surface. A cheese should be 
 sampled at this time with a cheese trier, and 
 if the mold is not spreading through the in- 
 terior, a number of holes should be pierced in 
 each end with a steel wire or needle. This is 
 done to admit air, which is necessary for mold 
 growth. In large factories the scraping, brush- 
 ing and piercing are done by machinery. 
 
 Roquefort cheese are usually ready for con- 
 sumption when 4 to 6 weeks old, but continue to 
 improve for several months. A good Eoquefort 
 cheese has a pronounced, rich nutty flavor; the 
 texture is similar to our well-made home-trade 
 Cheddars, and the whole interior is evenly pen- 
 ciled or marbled with mold, giving a greenish 
 mottled appearance. When ready for market 
 they are wrapped in paper or tinfoil and packed 
 in boxes. 
 
r 
 
 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 47 
 
 Composition of Roquefort Cheese. 
 
 Fat 34% 
 
 Casein 28% 
 
 Water 30% 
 
 Ash, salt, etc 8% 
 
 100% / 
 
 MuNSTEK Cheese. 
 Minister cheese receives its name from the 
 «ity of Munster, in Germany, but they are made 
 in other countries, including America. These 
 cheese have a characteristic flavor, obtained by 
 the addition of caraway seeds. They are cylin- 
 drical in shape, about 7 inches in diameter, 
 weigh about 3 pounds, and retail for 15 to 20 
 cents per pound. 
 
 Method of Manufacture. 
 
 Clean, fresh milk is heated in a cheese vat to 
 90° F. Usually no ripening of the milk is neces- 
 sary, but if the milk is obtained in a fresh con- 
 dition, the addition of a small amount of com- 
 mercial starter is advisable, as it insures a good 
 flavor in the cheese and assists materially in 
 preventing gas formation. When the acidity 
 of the milk has reached .16%, rennet extract, 
 diluted in cold water, is added at the rate of 3 
 ounces to each 1,000 pounds milk. In about 30 
 minutes the milk should be firmly coagulated 
 and is then cut with the regular curd knives. 
 The curd is not stirred, however, but is allowed 
 
48 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 to settle to the bottom of the vat, where it re- 
 mains for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the acidity 
 of the whey reaches .12%. The whey is then 
 siphoned off and the curd scooped into the 
 forms after the caraway seeds have been mixed 
 with it at the rate of 1 ounce to 100 pounds 
 curd. The form is lined with cheese cloth be- 
 fore receiving the curd, and is usually made in 
 two parts. In 8 to 10 hours after the curd is 
 put in the form the upper half of the form is 
 removed, then the bandage is taken off and the 
 cheese placed in the top half of the form, where 
 it remains for 4 or 5 days, being turned twice 
 each day. At the end of this time the cheese 
 is taken out and rubbed with salt three days in 
 succession, when it is transferred to the ripen- 
 ing cellar, which should contain about 70% 
 moisture and have a uniform temperature of 
 55° F. It usually requires 6 to 8 weeks for 
 Munster cheese to get ready for market. Dur- 
 ing this time they should be turned at least 
 twice a week on the shelves. When ready for 
 market they are wrapped in parchment paper 
 or tinfoil and packed in boxes. 
 Composition of Munster Cheese. 
 
 Fat 30% 
 
 Casein 22% 
 
 Water 42% 
 
 Ash, salt, acid, etc 6% 
 
 100% 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 49 
 
 Pont L'Eveque Cheese. 
 
 This cheese receives its name from a locality 
 in France, where a large amount of the cheese 
 is manufactured. They are oblong in shape, 
 about 1 inch thick and weigh about 16 ounces. 
 They have a tough rind and the texture is some- 
 what like that of Brie cheese, only firmer, owing 
 to the more rapid and more thorough expulsion 
 of whey during the manufacturing process. 
 
 Method of Manufacture. 
 
 Clean, whole milk is placed in a cheese vat, 
 heated to 90"^ F. and ripened to an acidity of 
 .17%. The ripening is best accomplished by 
 the addition of a small amount of lactic acid 
 (1/4% in fresh milk). This stimulates the cur- 
 ing or ripening of the cheese and insures a good 
 flavor. When the proper degree of acidity is 
 reached the milk is colored by the addition of 
 % ounce of annatto to each 1,000 pounds. Een- 
 net extract, diluted in cold water, is then added 
 at the rate of 3 ounces per 1,000 pounds milk. 
 In 30 minutes the milk should be firmly coagu- 
 lated, when it is cut with coarse curd knives 
 into cubes % inch square. Immediately after 
 cutting, the curd is placed on straw mats or on 
 the cotton-covered rack of a curd sink, and as 
 soon as all free whey has escaped the curd is 
 transferred to the forms, which are placed on 
 straw mats. The cheese are left in the forms 
 
50 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 for 3 days, and during this time the forms are 
 frequently turned, so that both surfaces of the 
 cheese become free from openings and marked 
 with the ridges of the straw matting. At the 
 end of the third day the forms are removed and 
 the cheese are rubbed with salt. While in the 
 forms the temperature of the room should be 
 kept at 65° F. and the humidity at 70%. After 
 salting, the cheese are placed in a dry, well- 
 ventilated room for 2 or 3 days and then trans- 
 ferred to the curing cellar, where the tempera- 
 ture should be 55° F. and the moisture content 
 
 Pont L'Eveque Cheese Form. 
 
 of the air 80% to 85%. In the course of a few 
 days a growth of mold starts on the outside 
 of the cheese and soon covers the entire surface. 
 The coating of mold is not allowed to become 
 so pronounced as on some of the other varieties 
 of cheese, and every few days is partly removed 
 by washing the cheese in a solution of 1 ounce 
 of salt in every 5 pounds of water. It usually 
 requires about 4 weeks for Pont PEveque 
 cheese to become ready for market, and the suc- 
 cessful manufacture of the cheese depends very 
 largely upon the careful control of the moisture 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 51 
 
 content and temperature of the ripening cellar. 
 
 The yield averages about 1 pound to 10 pounds 
 
 of milk. 
 
 Composition of Pont VEveque Cheese. 
 
 Fat 28% 
 
 Casein 22% 
 
 Water 46% 
 
 Salt, ash, acid, etc 4% 
 
 100% 
 
 Port Du Salut Cheese. 
 
 This cheese originated in the Trappist Abbey, 
 Port du Salut, in France, and is considered one 
 of the most delicious varieties sold in Europe. 
 It is circular in form, 7 inches in diameter, flat, 
 about 1 inch thick and weighs about II/2 pounds. 
 The outside or rind of the cheese is firm and 
 hard, but the inside is mellow and smooth, re- 
 sembling somewhat the texture of a well-ripened 
 soft home-trade cheddar cheese. The body is 
 more or less porous and the flavor is what we 
 usually term rich, creamy and nutty. 
 Method of Manufacture. 
 
 Clean, whole milk is heated in a cheese vat to 
 90° F., ripened to an acidity of .17% by the ad- 
 dition of a small amount of lactic acid culture, 
 and colored with annatto at the rate of % ounce 
 to 1,000 pounds of milk. When the proper de- 
 gree of acidity has been reached, rennet extract 
 
52 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 diluted in cold water is added at the rate of 4 
 ounces per 1,000 pounds of milk. In 30 minutes 
 the milk should be firmly coagulated, when it is 
 cut into small cubes about % inch square. Im- 
 mediately after cutting, the curd is stirred, to 
 keep the particles separated, and the tempera- 
 ture is raised to 102° F. The time required for 
 heating is 15 to 20 minutes, depending largely 
 upon the amount of milk in the vat and the 
 acidity. The curd is then allowed to settle to 
 the bottom of the vat and the whey is siphoned 
 off. The curd should then be hand-stirred for 2 
 or 3 minutes, after which it is transferred to 
 the forms and pressure of about 5 pounds ap- 
 plied to each cheese for 10 to 12 hours. During 
 this time the cheese are frequently turned in the 
 forms, the cloths removed, dipped in hot water 
 and rewrapped aroimd the cheese. This is done 
 to insure a good rind formation. After 12 
 hours' pressing, the cheese are removed from 
 the forms, cloths removed, and salt rubbed into 
 the cheese surfaces. In 24 hours the cheese are 
 placed on shelves in the curing cellar, which 
 should be maintained at a uniform temperature 
 of 55° F. and have a moisture content of 90%. 
 It usually requires Pont du Salut cheese 4 to 
 6 weeks to become ready for market. During 
 this time they should be turned twice a week 
 on the shelves, and if mold accumulates on the 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 53 
 
 surfaces, it is removed by washing the cheese 
 in a solution of 1 ounce of salt to 5 pounds of 
 water. These cheese usually retail for 20 to 
 25 cents per pound, and the yield averages 
 about 11 pounds per 100 pounds of 4% milk. 
 
 Composition of Port du Salut Cheese. 
 
 Fat 28% 
 
 Casein 22% 
 
 Water 46% 
 
 Ash, salt, acid, etc 4% 
 
 100% 
 Caciocavallo Cheese. 
 This is an Italian cheese, but is made in lim- 
 ited quantities in America, from skimmed milk. 
 The cheese weigh about 3 pounds each and have 
 a peculiar shape, resembling the sole of a shoe, 
 
 Caciocavallo Cheese. 
 
 there being a restriction at one end, caused by 
 the cord with which they are suspended while 
 drying. Being oval and thick, the shape has 
 been compared to that of a long beet. 
 
 Method of Manufacture, 
 Three parts separator skimmed milk and 1 
 
54 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 part whole milk are placed in a cheese vat, 
 heated to 90° F. and ripened by the addition 
 of 14% to 2% commercial starter or buttermilk 
 to an acidity of .21%. Kennet extract, diluted 
 in cold water, is then added at the rate of 2 
 ounces per 1,000 pounds of milk. In 25 to 30 
 minutes the milk should be firmly coagulated, 
 when it is cut into small cubes by the regular 
 Cheddar curd knives. The curd is not stirred, 
 but is allowed to settle to the bottom of the vat, 
 where it remains for several hours, or until the 
 acidity of the whey reaches .50%. Direct steam 
 is then turned into the whey and the tempera- 
 ture is raised to 165° F. This temperature is 
 maintained for 20 minutes, and during this time 
 the curd is stirred with an iron rake. The whey 
 is then removed and the curd kneaded by hand 
 until all free whey escapes and the texture be- 
 comes stringy. It is then molded by hand into 
 the desired shape and placed in a salt brine 
 strong enough to float an egg, for 2 or 3 days. 
 "When removed from the brine the cheese are 
 suspended in pairs, from hooks in the ceiling, 
 by cords tied tightly around the cheese about 2 
 inches from the end. ^¥hile hanging from the 
 ceiling they are lightly smoked with the smoke 
 of burning wood and transferred to a cool, dry 
 room, where they remain suspended until ready 
 for market. During the curing stage the cheese 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 55 
 
 become hard and dry, and it may be necessary 
 to rub the surfaces occasionally with boiled lin- 
 seed oil to prevent their cracking. Caciocavallo 
 cheese may be marketed when 2 months old, but 
 remains in good condition for years. It is very 
 seldom eaten in large pieces but it grated and 
 used for making macaroni foods and for flavor- 
 ing soups. 
 
 Composition of Caciocavallo Cheese. 
 
 Fat 30% 
 
 Casein and albumin 38% 
 
 Water 24% 
 
 Ash, salt, acid, etc 8% 
 
 100% 
 RicoTTO, Whey or Ziger Cheese. 
 
 This variety of cheese consists largely of al- 
 bumin and is made in nearly all countries, from 
 the whey obtained in the manufacture of other 
 cheese. 
 Method of Manufacture in America, 
 
 The whey is placed in a cheese vat or wooden 
 tank, ripened by the addition of 5% sour whey 
 to .30% acidity, and heated by direct steam to 
 175° F. After standing undisturbed for 10 
 minutes the fat rises to the surface and can 
 be skimmed off. When the fat has been re- 
 moved, enough sour whey is added to bring the 
 acidity up to .40%. Live steam is then turned 
 
56 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEKICA. 
 
 into the whey and the temperature raised to as 
 near 212"^ F. as possible. The albumin soon 
 rises to the surface in a flaky condition and is 
 skimmed off. Should difficulty be experienced 
 in collecting the albumin, the addition of 2 to 
 S% buttermilk before the last heating will be 
 found of assistance, but the casein of the butter- 
 milk may cause dry granules in the cheese. 
 When the albumin has been removed from the 
 whey it is salted at the rate of 1% ounces to 
 10 pounds of the curd, and packed in stone jars, 
 where it remains until sold. The cheese usu- 
 ally kept in a soft condition by being covered 
 with whey, but a much better product can be 
 made by mixing one part of cream with 3 parts 
 of albumin. This can be put up in small pack- 
 ages, wrapped in parchment paper or in small 
 paper pails similar to those used for cottage 
 cheese. 
 
 Composition of Ricotto Cheese, 
 
 Fat 5% 
 
 Casein and albumin. ... 20% 
 
 Water 68% 
 
 Ash, salt, acid, etc 7% 
 
 100% 
 
 Camembebt Cheese. 
 Camembert cheese is a soft, molded cheese of 
 French origin, but now made successfully in 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 57 
 
 America. A large quantity is imported from 
 France annually, but the American made cheese 
 are being gradually recognized and improved 
 in quality to such an extent that they are rap- 
 idly replacing the imported goods. The deli- 
 cious flavor and creamy texture makes it one 
 of the most popular and high priced fancy 
 cheeses on the market. Each cheese is about 
 4% inches in diameter, V/o inches thick and 
 weighs about 10 ounces. As seen on the mar- 
 ket, they are wrapped in parchment paper or 
 tinfoil, packed in individual thin wooden boxes, 
 and retail for about 35 cents each. 
 
 When the manufacture of Camembert cheese 
 was first attempted in America many difficulties 
 were encountered, but most of these have now 
 been overcome, largely through the experimen- 
 tal work done at the Storrs Experiment Station. 
 The details of the manufacturing process, as 
 herein stated, are similar to those followed at 
 Storrs and at the New York State College of 
 Agriculture. 
 
 Method of Manufacture, 
 
 Clean, sweet milk, from which %% of the 
 fat has been removed, is ripened by the addition 
 of %% to 1% lactic acid culture to an acidity 
 of 0.20% to 0.23%, preferably 0.21%, and 
 heated in a cheese vat to 86° F. If colored 
 cheese are desired, the annatto color is now 
 
58 
 
 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEBICA. 
 
 added at the rate of 12c.c. per 1,000 pounds 
 milk. When the proper temperature and acid- 
 ity have been secured, the milk is transferred 
 to funnel-shaped cans holding about 50 pounds 
 each. Eennet extract, diluted in 10 times its 
 weight of cold water, is then added at the rate 
 of 120 c.c per 1,000 pounds of milk and mixed 
 evenly through the milk. It is advisable to add 
 the rennet to the cans at short intervals, so 
 
 
 Fine and Coarse Matting Used For Draining Camembert Cheese. 
 
 that all will not be ready to dip at the same 
 time. 
 
 In 1% to 2 hours after adding the rennet the 
 milk will be firmly coagulated and the whey will 
 have started to separate, showing first in small 
 drops and later in a thin layer on the surface. 
 The acidity of the whey at this time should be 
 .16% to .17%. The curd is now ready to be 
 transferred to the hoops, and is accomplished 
 by the aid of a small, shallow dipper. A dip- 
 perful of the curd is placed, with as little break- 
 ing as possible, in each hoop and the process 
 repeated until aU the hoops have been filled. 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEKICA. 59 
 
 Before receiving the cnrd, the hoops are 
 placed on straw matting on a draining table and 
 the hoops and matting both thoroughly wet with 
 warm water, so as to prevent the cnrd sticking 
 when the hoops are turned. Sometimes the 
 curd is cut with a curd knife before dipping, 
 but this is not advised unless difficulty is ex- 
 perienced in getting the curd to contract. After 
 
 Camembert Setting Can, Dipper and Hoop. 
 
 being filled, the hoops are placed in a well-ven- 
 tilated room at 68° F. and allowed to drain for 
 18 hours, when they are turned. When ready 
 to turn, the cheese should have a sort of elastic 
 softness, firm enough to permit turning with 
 the hand without the removal of the hoop. This 
 turning is usually done the first thing in the 
 morning of the day after the cheese is made. 
 In some factories, after dipping, disks of heavy 
 tinned iron, which fit the hoop closely, are 
 dropped upon all freshly dipped cheeses. These 
 
60 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 disks are claimed to prevent iinevenness of sur- 
 faces. They exert a slight but continuous pres- 
 sure upon the curd. A sucking disk of rubber 
 on the end of a handle is used to remove these 
 in the morning. 
 
 After turning, the cheese are allowed to drain 
 for a few hours, then removed from the hoops 
 and salted with coarse, dry salt by gently dust- 
 ing it over all the surfaces. The salt causes a 
 rind to form on the fresh cheese and assists in 
 expelling some of the whey. After salting, the 
 cheese are placed upon salting boards, where 
 they remain for 30 to 42 hours, when they 
 should be ready to be placed in the curing room. 
 Cheese Ripening. 
 
 The ripening process is undoubtedly the 
 greatest factor in determining the quality of 
 Camembert cheese. The ripening agents are: 
 
 1. Eennet extract, which digests the casein. 
 
 2. Lactic acid bacteria and their products, 
 
 which affect the milk sugar, and indi- 
 rectly the casein. 
 
 3. Chemical substances, formed by the ac- 
 
 tion of bacteria on milk products. 
 
 4. Camembert mold, which grows on the 
 
 cheese surfaces and is largely re- 
 sponsible for the changing of the solid 
 curd to creamy condition. 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 61 
 
 5. Oidium lactis and the species of bac- 
 teria which form a reddish slime on 
 the cheese surfaces during the ripen- 
 ing process. 
 
 The factors which control or are controlled 
 by the ripening agents are: 1. The moisture 
 (whey) content of the cheese. 2. The temper- 
 ature of the ripening roofs. 3. The amount of 
 moisture in the air of the ripening rooms. 
 
 In a few days after the cheese are placed in 
 the first curing room they become partly cov- 
 ered with a coating of mold of a greenish color. 
 When one first starts to make Camembert 
 cheese it is necessary to send to a bacteriologist 
 for a culture of Camembert mold with which to 
 inoculate the cheese and rooms. Before the 
 first lot of cheese are salted, some of the mold 
 culture is mixed with water and sprayed over 
 the cheese, as well as on the walls and floors of 
 the curing and making rooms. After that the 
 mold will usually form on all cheese without 
 further inoculation. 
 
 Care of Cheese in the Curing Rooms. 
 
 The first curing room should be kept at a uni- 
 form temperature of 52*^ to 56° F., and the 
 moisture content of the air at 85% to 90%, de- 
 pending on the dryness or wetness of the cheesei 
 For the first 2 weeks the cheese are placed on 
 coarse matting (clayons) and turned every 2 
 
62 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 or 3 days to insure uniform ripening. During 
 tMs time the surfaces become covered with mod- 
 erately thin areas of mold and patches of red- 
 dish slime. Traces of softening under the rind 
 show at the end of 2 weeks and the cheese are 
 then transferred to smooth boards or wrapped 
 in paper or tinfoil and boxed. It is claimed 
 that wrapping in tinfoil produces a stronger 
 flavored cheese than when paper is used, but 
 the tinfoil has proved the most satisfactory at 
 the New York State College of Agriculture. 
 
 During the next 2 weeks the care of the 
 cheese will depend largely on their condition. 
 If they are ripening favorably they may be left 
 in the same curing room, but if they appear to 
 be too moist they should be transferred to a 
 second curing room, where the air is dryer, and 
 possibly 1° or 2° cooler. Usually the cheese 
 are left on the boards until ready for market, 
 but if they show signs of going out of shape 
 they are better to be placed in the boxes. While 
 on the boards they should be turned every day 
 to prevent their adhering to the wood and 
 breaking. 
 
 At the end of 4 weeks the cheese should be 
 softened all the way through to a creamy con- 
 sistency, and the flavor should be mild and 
 pleasant. They are then ready for consump- 
 tion. In actual practice, however, they are usu- 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 63 
 
 ally boxed and sent to market when between 2 
 and 3 weeks old, the ripening being completed 
 during transportation or while in the stores of 
 retailers or commission men. 
 
 About 4 pounds of 4% milk are required for 
 each cheese, so it can be seen that the industry 
 is a profitable one when well understood and 
 carried on without losses. For further refer- 
 ence the reader is referred to Bulletin No. 58 
 prepared by Dr. Charles Thom, of the Storrs 
 Experiment Station. 
 
 Composition of Camembert Cheese. 
 
 Fat 46% 
 
 Proteids 32% 
 
 Water 19% 
 
 Ash, salt, etc 3% 
 
 100% 
 
 Brie Cheese. 
 Brie cheese is a soft, molded French cheese 
 of the Camembert type and is made in consider- 
 able quantities in America. They are made in 
 several sizes, the most common being about 2 
 inches in height and 12 inches in diameter. 
 Brie cheese is somewhat easier to make than 
 Camembert, and consequently does not sell for 
 so high a price, but, nevertheless, in many 
 places they sell for as high as 25 cents a pound, 
 thereby yielding the manufacturer a good profit, 
 
64 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 as 12 to 14 pounds can be made from 100 pounds 
 of 4% milk. 
 
 Method of Manufacture, 
 
 Clean, sweet milk is ripened in a cheese vat 
 at 60° F. by the addition of %% to 1/2% lactic 
 acid culture to an acidity of .19%. It is then 
 heated to 84° F. and coloring added at the rate 
 of % ounce (15c.c.) per 1,000 pounds of milk. 
 As soon as the coloring has been evenly distrib- 
 uted, the milk is transferred to the setting cans 
 (similar to Camembert), where rennet extract, 
 diluted in cold water, is added at the rate of 4 
 ounces per 1,000 pounds of milk. The milk be- 
 gins to coagulate in 10 to 15 minutes, but should 
 be left undisturbed for 2 hours, when it is 
 dipped carefully into the hoops, which are 
 placed on fine matting on a draining table. The 
 hoops are filled with curd, but it rapidly shrinks 
 as the whey leaves it. In 4 to 5 hours the cheese 
 will have become somewhat firm and have as- 
 sumed their form. The hoops are then turned, 
 so that the draining may be uniform and both 
 ends of the cheese may become marked with 
 the impression of the straws in the matting. 
 The cheese are left over night in the make room, 
 where the temperature should be kept at about 
 65°. On the following morning the hoops are 
 again inverted, but the position of the matting 
 is changed, so that the marks of the straws will 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 65 
 
 be crossed, causing a number of little points to 
 appear on the surface of tbe cheese, instead of 
 lines. In 4 or 5 hours the hoops are turned once 
 more, so that both surfaces of the cheese may 
 be marked alike. In 2 or 3 hours the hoops are 
 removed and the cheese salted by sprinkling 
 coarse, dry salt over the surfaces. They are 
 then placed on smooth boards in a drying room, 
 where the temperature should be kept at 56° F. 
 and the relative humidity about 70%. Here the 
 cheese remain for 8 to 12 days, being turned 
 every day, and during this period they become 
 covered with white and blue mold and areas of 
 reddish slime. At the end of 12 days, or as 
 soon as the cheese have begun to soften, they 
 are placed on coarse matting and transferred 
 to another cellar or room, where the tempera- 
 ture should be kept at 52° F. and the relative 
 humidity at 85% to 90%. Here the cheese re- 
 main until ready for market, being turned every 
 2 or 3 days. Brie cheese are considered salable 
 when the interior has assumed a yellow color 
 and a creamy texture. They are then wrapped 
 in parchment paper and packed in boxes. When 
 markets are some distance from the factory the 
 cheese are often boxed at an earlier date and al- 
 lowed to finish the ripening during transporta- 
 tion or while in the stores of the dealers. 
 
66 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEBICA. 
 
 Composition of Brie Cheese, 
 
 Fat 27% 
 
 Casein 19% 
 
 Water 50% 
 
 Salt, ash, etc 4% 
 
 100% 
 Oka Cheese. 
 
 Oka cheese is a fancy variety of the type of 
 soft molded cheeses, made exclusively in the 
 Oka Trappist monastery in the Province of 
 Quebec, Canada. The cheese, which are flat and 
 circular, measure about 10 inches in diameter 
 and 2 inches thick. The flavor resembles that 
 of Brie cheese, but the texture is more waxy. 
 The actual details of the manufacturing proc- 
 ess are kept secret, but from an examination 
 of the finished cheese it is quite evident that the 
 process is very similar to that used in making 
 Brie. 
 
 Goat's Milk Cheese. 
 
 While it is possible to make nearly all varie- 
 ties of cheese from goats ' milk, there is one par- 
 ticular variety made in many foreign countries 
 that is known exclusively as goats ' milk cheese. 
 Method of Manufacture. 
 
 The fresh milk is heated to 90° F. and coagu- 
 lated by the addition of 9c.c rennet extract to 
 each 100 pounds of milk. In 45 to 60 minutes 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 67 
 
 the coagulated milk is cut into small cubes by 
 the regular curd knives, and stirred gently with 
 the hand or a wooden rake for 15 minutes, when 
 the whey and curd are dipped into small per- 
 forated tin molds placed on straw matting. 
 The molds should be turned every 30 minutes 
 for several hours until all free whey has drained 
 off and the cheese are firm. Salt is then sprink- 
 led over the upper surface. In 24 hours the 
 cheese are again turned and salt rubbed into 
 the other surface, as well as on the sides. When 
 ready for market, goats' milk cheese measure 3 
 inches in diameter and 2 inches deep and weigh 
 % pound. They should be ripened for at least 
 20 days at a temperature of 60° F. before mar- 
 keting, when they become mellow in texture, 
 with a characteristic flavor, resembling sweit- 
 zer. 
 Composition of Goats' Milk Cheese. 
 
 Fat 36% 
 
 Casein 23% 
 
 Salts, acid, etc 6% 
 
 Water 35% 
 
 100% 
 
 LiMBURG Cheese. 
 
 Limburg is a soft rennet cheese that origi- 
 nated in Belgium, where it was marketed at the 
 town of Limburg. Very little Limburg cheese 
 
68 FAlxCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 is imported into this country now, however, 
 most of it being made in the states of New York 
 and Wisconsin. This cheese is recognized by its 
 strong odor and characteristic taste and can 
 be made with success by the average cheese- 
 maker. 
 
 Method of Manufacture, 
 
 Fresh, clean, sweet milk is necessary for the 
 manufacture of Limburg cheese. For this rea- 
 son the cheese are made twice each day during 
 the hot weather of the summer months. Pas- 
 teurization of the milk, however, eliminates this 
 and insures a reliable and unifoiTQ raw ma- 
 terial. "When the milk is pasteurized and cooled, 
 two c.c. of a 25% solution of calcium chloride 
 should be added, to restore the coagulative 
 power. The milk is set at a temperature of 
 90° F., with enough rennet (2i/2 ounces to 1,000 
 pounds of milk) to coagulate it fit for cutting 
 in 30 minutes. The setting temperature can be 
 varied slightly according to the temperature of 
 the room and the acidity of the milk. The 
 acidity of the milk at the time of adding the 
 rennet should not be over .17%. When milk is 
 pasteurized, %% commercial starter is used to 
 produce the proper fermentation. As soon as 
 the milk is firmly coagulated it is cut into cubes 
 not smaller than %inch square, by using the per- 
 pendicular curd knife, first lengthwise of the vat 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEBICA. 
 
 69 
 
 and then crosswise. The curd is then stirred 
 gently with a wooden rake or agitator and in 10 
 minutes the steam is turned on and the tempera- 
 ture raised in 30 minutes to 96° or 98° F. When 
 this temperature has been reached, one-half the 
 whey is drawn off and the curds stirred until 
 the cubes shrink to about three-fifths their orig- 
 inal size. The acidity of the whey should then 
 be not over .15%, and about 45 minutes should 
 have elapsed from the time of cutting. The 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^, 
 
 1 
 
 
 III 
 
 
 
 Limburg Cheese Mold. 
 
 mixture of whey and curd is then dipped into 
 the molds, which have been placed on a draining 
 table covered with burlap. The molds are filled 
 and in 15 minutes, or as soon as the curd has 
 settled and matted, are turned bottom side up. 
 They are again turned every hour for 4 or 5 
 hours, by which time they will have become 
 molded into shape and all free whey will have 
 escaped. They are then taken to the curing 
 cellar, rolled in salt and placed flat side down 
 upon a salting table or shelf. The salting oper- 
 
70 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 ation is repeated once a day for 3 days, when 
 they are placed on end on the curing room 
 shelves. Limburg cheese should be ripened in 
 a damp cellar at a temperature as near 60° F. 
 as possible, and should not be marketed before 
 they are at least 5 weeks old. During this time 
 they should be turned on the shelves every 2 or 
 3 days and rubbed by hand. If the surfaces be- 
 come too dry, they should be moistened with 
 warm water or whey. Limburg cheese measure 
 5 inches square and 2 inches thick and weigh 
 about 2 pounds. About 8 pounds of milk is re- 
 quired to make 1 pound of cheese. The ripen- 
 ing starts at the outside of the cheese, and in 
 about 2 weeks they begin to turn yellow. The 
 molds are made of i/2-inch wood, 28 inches long, 
 5 inches wide, 5 inches deep, and divided into 
 5 compartments, so that 5 cheese can be molded 
 at one time. While wood is used entirely, molds 
 of galvanized iron are much more sanitary. Any 
 form of draining table will suffice, so long as it 
 has sufficient slant to allow the whey to drain 
 away freely. 
 
 When the cheese are ready for market they 
 are wrapped in waxed paper, or frequently in 
 tinfoil, and packed in boxes of different sizes 
 for shipment. 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 71 
 
 Composition of Limburg Cheese. 
 
 Fat 30% 
 
 Casein 29% 
 
 Water 36% 
 
 Ash, salt, acid, etc 5% 
 
 100% 
 
 IsiGNY Cheese. 
 Isigny cheese is of American origin, result- 
 ing from attempts to make Camembert cheese. 
 It is recognized in two classes, the ripened and 
 the unripened. The nnripened is somewhat 
 firm and mild and resembles freshly salted Ched- 
 dar curd. The ripened class is much softer, 
 strong in flavor and resembles Limburger. It 
 results from keeping the unripened variety for 
 several weeks at a temperature of 70"^ F. Isigny 
 cheese are flat and cylindrical in shape, meas- 
 ure 5V2 inches in diameter and 1% inches deep 
 and weigh a little over 1 pound. 
 
 Method of Manufacture. 
 
 Sweet, clean milk, with an acidity of .18%, is 
 heated to 90° F. and 1^% commercial starter 
 added. For each 1,000 pounds of milk 2 ounces 
 of rennet extract, diluted in 20 times its weight 
 of cold water is then stirred thoroughly through 
 the milk for 3 minutes. In 45 minutes the milk 
 should be firmly coagulated, when it is cut into 
 
72 
 
 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 cubes about 1 incli square. It is then stirred 
 gently for 10 minutes until the cubes of curd 
 begin to contract, when the mixture of whey and 
 curd is dipped into the molds. The molds are 
 made of perforated tin and are 5% inches in 
 diameter and 5 inches high. They should be 
 placed on corrugated matting and filled to the 
 top with curd. As the whey drains away from 
 the curd the molds should be turned every hour 
 for 4 or 5 hours. By this time the cheese will 
 
 Isigny Mold, Salting Mold and Cheese. 
 
 have assumed a regular shape and size. The 
 following morning they are taken from the 
 molds and the surface rubbed with salt, which 
 penetrates the interior. They are then placed 
 in salting molds, which consist of a band of tin 
 large enough to keep the cheese in shape. In 
 about 5 days the cheese can be wrapped in 
 parchment paper, packed in Isigny cheese boxes 
 and sent to market. A hundred pounds of 4% 
 milk will make about 15 pounds of Isigny cheese, 
 which retails for at least 20 cents a pound. 
 When the ripened cheese are desired, they 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 73 
 
 should be kept in a moist room at a tempera- 
 ture of 70° F. for 5 or 6 weeks, when they be- 
 come softer in texture and stronger in flavor. 
 During the ripening process they should be fre- 
 quently washed or rubbed to prevent the growth 
 of molds on the outside. 
 
 Miniature Isigny Cheese. 
 The only difference between Isigny and min- 
 iature cheese is in size, miniature being made 
 in smaller molds, weigh about % pound and 
 measure 3% inches in diameter and IV2 inches 
 deep. 
 
 Miniature Mold and Cheese. 
 
 Composition of Isigny Cheese. 
 
 Fat 22.00% 
 
 Casein 23.50% 
 
 Salt, acid, etc 4.50% 
 
 Water 50.00% 
 
 100% 
 
74 fancy cheese in aivieeica. 
 
 Cottage Cheese (Smear-Case, Dutch Cheese). 
 
 In America, cottage cheese is manufactured 
 more extensively than any other variety of soft 
 cheese made from skimmed milk. A consider- 
 able amount is used on the dinner table, but 
 the great bulk of it is used by bakers in the 
 preparation of fancy cheese biscuits. For this 
 reason it is often called baker ^s cheese. 
 
 Method of Manufacture, 
 
 Cottage cheese is the product obtained by the 
 precipitation of the solids of skimmed milk or 
 buttermilk. This precipitation can be accom- 
 plished in several ways: (1) by the develop- 
 ment of lactic acid; (2) by the addition of other 
 acids (contrary to law in New York State) ; (3) 
 by the addition of rennet; (4) by a combination 
 of any two of these. The most desirable method 
 is a combination of one and three, viz., the de- 
 velopment of lactic acid by the use of a com- 
 mercial starter or buttermilk and by the use of 
 rennet. A commercial starter is simply a cul- 
 ture of lactic acid forming bacteria, and can be 
 secured from any of the dairy supply houses. 
 
 Skimmed milk as it comes from the separator 
 is cooled to 75° F., or the milk may first be pas- 
 teurized at 165° F. for 15 minutes and then 
 cooled to 75° F. Then a sufficient quantity of 
 commercial starter or buttermilk is added. The 
 amount of starter varies from i/4% to 5%, de- 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 75 
 
 pending on the acidity of the milk, the tempera- 
 ture of the milk, the acidity of the starter and 
 the time allowed for coagulation. When milk is 
 separated in the morning, it should be ready for 
 the addition of rennet early in the afternoon. 
 The acidity should not be over .22% when ren- 
 net extract is added at the rate of % ounce per 
 1,000 pounds of skimmed milk, over-acid milk 
 causing defective texture and flavor in the 
 cheese. Coagulation usually takes place in a 
 few hours, but the milk should be left undis- 
 turbed and kept at 75° F. until the curd is firm 
 and has begun to separate from the whey. The 
 acidity at this time should be not over .45%. 
 The curd is then scooped onto a large strainer- 
 rack or placed in cotton bags to drain. The 
 expulsion of whey can be hastened greatly by 
 the use of a cheddar cheese press. When all 
 free whey has escaped the curd is packed in 
 milk cans and is ready for shipment. This 
 product is commonly called ^'baker's cheese.*' 
 When cottage cheese is manufactured in 
 small quantities for table use, it is prepared 
 somewhat differently. After the curd has been 
 dried to a firm, smooth consistency, thick cream 
 (sour or sweet) is mixed in, at the rate of 8 
 ounces to 10 pounds of the cheese. Salt is 
 then added to suit the taste, the usual quantity 
 being 2 ounces to 10 pounds of cheese. After 
 
76 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 salting, the cheese is pressed into round balls, 
 rectangular prints or fancy shapes weighing 
 1/4 pound to 1/2 pound and wrapped in oiled 
 paper or paraffined paper. A convenient way 
 of marketing is in small paper pails holding 
 % to % pound each. 
 
 One hundred pounds of skimmed milk will 
 make about 22 pounds of baker's cheese, which 
 sells for 1% to 2 cents per pound, or about 18 
 pounds of finished cottage cheese, which usu- 
 ally retails for 10 to 20 cents per pound, de- 
 pending on the quality of the cheese and the 
 manner in which it is marketed. 
 
 A New Method for Making Cottage Cheese. 
 
 The following is the method followed most 
 successfully by the author in the New York 
 State College of Agriculture: 
 
 Pasteurized skimmed milk is cooled to 70° 
 F., and ripened by the addition of lactic acid 
 culture to an acidity of .55%. If the skimmed 
 milk can be secured in the morning 10% com- 
 mercial starter will produce the desired acidity 
 by three or four o'clock in the afternoon. As 
 soon as the proper acidity has been reached the 
 temperature is raised to 80*^ F. The casein or 
 curd soon separates from the whey in the form 
 of small particles. When the casein has been 
 precipitated, the milk is churned for 10 to 15 
 minutes to break the granules into a finer con- 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 77 
 
 dition. After churning the milk is placed in 
 cans and the temperature raised to 100° F. 
 After standing undisturbed for 60 minutes the 
 curd settles to the bottom. The whey is then 
 siphoned ofP and the curd placed in cotton bags 
 in a cold room, where it drains over night. In 
 the morning all free whey will have escaped, so 
 the curd is stirred up and salted 1% ounces to 
 10 pounds of curd. The remaining procedure is 
 similar to that of cottage cheese prepared by 
 the other method. Cheese made in this manner 
 have a smoother, finer texture than those made 
 by the older method. 
 
 Qualities of Cottage Cheese. 
 
 Perfect cottage cheese should be clean in 
 flavor, resembling fresh butter. The taste should 
 be mildly acid. The texture should be fairly 
 dry but smooth and entirely free from lumps 
 or grittiness. Cottage cheese will keep in good 
 condition for two weeks or more if kept in a cold 
 place. 
 Composition of Cottage Cheese. 
 
 Water 72.00% 
 
 Proteids 20.00% 
 
 Sugar, lactic acid, etc. 5.50% 
 Ash 2.50% 
 
 100.00% 
 
78 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 Defects in Cottage Cheese — Causes and Reme- 
 dies, 
 
 1. Defects in flavor. 
 
 Unclean, bitter, acidy and food flavors are 
 the important ones. 
 
 (a) Causes. 
 
 (1) Bacteria, which gain entrance in 
 
 one or more of the following 
 ways: 
 
 (a) Unclean milk supply. 
 
 (b) Unclean utensils. 
 
 (c) On dirt carried by flies. 
 
 (d) Impure starters. 
 
 (e) Development of acid. 
 
 (2) Flavors of strong smelling foods 
 
 which the cows have eaten. 
 
 (b) Eemedy. It is practically impos- 
 
 sible to make the cheese any bet- 
 ter than the milk supply. Many 
 undesirable flavors can be avoid- 
 ed, however, by pasteurizing 
 part or all of the skimmed milk 
 and ripening with a good com- 
 mercial starter. 
 
 2. Defects in texture. 
 
 A. The most common defects are dry, 
 mealy, and lumpy texture, 
 (a) Causes. Too little moisture or an 
 uneven incorporation of mois- 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEBICA. 79 
 
 ture in the cheese, due to one or 
 more of the following causes : 
 
 (a) Too high or uneven temperature 
 
 during the manufacturing proc- 
 ess. This usually occurs in cold 
 weather in buildings where the 
 temperature cannot be con- 
 trolled. 
 
 (b) Over-development of acid. 
 
 (c) Too rapid drying or uneven 
 
 drying. 
 
 (d) Use of too much rennet. 
 
 (e) Uneven coagulation. 
 
 (f ) Too little acid at the time of dip- 
 
 ping the curd. 
 
 (b) Remedy. If uniform results are to 
 be obtained the temperatures 
 and acidity must be uniformly 
 controlled. In cold weather the 
 building should be warm. The 
 use of an acidimeter affords an 
 accurate means of determining 
 the amount of acid at all times, 
 and when this is known the de- 
 velopment can be controlled by 
 raising or lowering the tempera- 
 ture as desired. Lactic acid 
 forms most rapidly at 90° F., 
 and as this temperature is low- 
 
80 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 ered the growth of lactic acid 
 forming bacteria is checked pro- 
 portionally. An important fact 
 to remember is that the lower 
 the temperature and still have a 
 proper coagulation, the smooth- 
 er will be the texture. 
 
 B. Soft, pasty or mushy texture. 
 
 (a) Causes. Too much moisture in the 
 
 cheese, due to one or more of 
 the following conditions : 
 
 (a) Too low temperature of coagu- 
 
 lation. 
 
 (b) Imperfect coagulation. 
 
 (c) Insufficient drying. 
 
 (b) Eemedy. The precautions given 
 
 under dry texture apply here as 
 well. When there is an excess 
 of acid it may be partly removed 
 by washing the curd in cold 
 water. The formation of acid 
 may be checked by the addition 
 of part of the salt, by appljong 
 ice over the curd, or by placing 
 it in a cold room. 
 
 The great secret of successful cottage cheese- 
 making lies in the proper controlling of tem- 
 perature, acidity and moisture during the entire 
 manufacturing process. A high moisture con- 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 81 
 
 = .. ^'^1 
 
 tent means more whey and therefore more milk 
 sugar, and subsequently a greater and more 
 rapid formation of acid. In dry cheese the 
 formation of acid is slower. 
 
 BUTTEEMILK ChEESE. 
 
 Buttermilk cheese is a product made from the 
 curd of buttermilk. The method of manufac- 
 ture has recently been described in a bulletin 
 from the Wisconsin Station and is as follows : 
 
 Buttermilk of 0.5 or 0£% acidity, made either 
 from pasteurized or raw cream, is run into a 
 steam-heated vat or starter can, or placed in a 
 pail which can be heated in a tub of hot water. 
 The buttermilk is stirred and heated to 75° to 
 78° F., when it is covered and left quiet for 11/2 
 to 2 hours. The temperature is then raised to 
 140° F. and in about an hour the curd will have 
 settled to the bottom. The whey is then re- 
 moved and the curd transferred to a draining 
 cloth or cotton bag, where it remains over night 
 or until it becomes sufficiently dry. There seems 
 to be little danger of the curd getting too dry, 
 as is the case in cottage cheese, but, while it is 
 draining it should be stirred occasionally as 
 the portions next the cloth dry more rapidly 
 and prevent or delay the draining of the curd 
 in the center. 
 
 As soon as all free whey has been expelled 
 from the curd, salt, at the rate of 2 ounces to 
 
82 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 each 10 pounds of cheese, is added. The cheese 
 can then be put up in small packages, wrapped 
 in parchment paper or in paper pails similar to 
 those used for ice cream. 
 
 Buttermilk cheese is somewhat finer in grain 
 than skimmed milk cottage cheese and needs no 
 added cream to give it the proper texture. One 
 hundred pounds of buttermilk yields from 12 
 to 15 pounds of cheese, the amount depending 
 on the casein content of the buttermilk and the 
 amount of water retained in the cheese. The 
 cheese sell for the same prices as cottage cheese. 
 
 Neufchatel Cheese. 
 
 Neufchatel cheese was originally a French 
 make of soft, molded cheese. In this country 
 the process of manufacture has been consider- 
 ably changed, so that the cheese as now manu- 
 factured represents a somewhat different type, 
 that is ready for use as soon as made. 
 American Method of Manufacture. 
 
 Fresh sweet milk is heated to 165° F. for 10 
 minutes and then cooled immediately to 72° F. 
 Until very recently the milk used was not pas- 
 teurized, but the great diJBficulty in securing re- 
 liable milk, together with the advantages of 
 pasteurization and the use of a commercial 
 starter, have made the heating method very 
 popular. 
 
 In large factories the cheese is made in large 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 83 
 
 vats, but on the farm it can be made in smaller 
 quantities in shotgun cans holding about 30 
 pounds of milk. After the milk is cooled to 72® 
 F. a small amqunt of commercial starter is 
 added and enough rennet to insure a thorough 
 coagulation in 18 hours. Usually about 1 c.c. of 
 commercial starter and % c.c. of rennet extract 
 is sufficient to 30 pounds of milk if the tempera- 
 ture is maintained at 72° F. As soon as the 
 milk is firmly coagulated it is placed on a cotton- 
 covered strainer-rack or in cotton bags to drain. 
 The acidity of the exuding whey at this time 
 should not be over .35% or the flavor of the 
 cheese will be too acid. The draining process 
 requires several hours and should be kept up 
 until all free whey has escaped. Light pres- 
 
 Parts of a Neufchatel Cheese Mold in Position. 
 
 sure, such as can be obtained in a small cheese- 
 press, aids materially in expelling the whey. 
 During the draining process the curd on the 
 outer and under surfaces of the strainer should 
 be stirred occasionally to insure even drying. 
 As soon as the curd is sufficiently dry, salt is 
 added at the rate of 2i/4 ounces to 10 pounds of 
 curd. At this time the acidity of the whey 
 
84 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEBICA. 
 
 should not be over .5% The cheese should then 
 be pressed for a short time to expel excess 
 whey. It is then kneaded by hand and finally 
 pressed into small cylindrical shapes l%x2% 
 inches, weighing one-fourth pound each. Cheese 
 are wrapped in parchment paper and tinfoils 
 5x7 inches and are then ready for market. 
 
 Qualities of Neufchatel Cheese, 
 
 Neufchatel cheese should have a distinct, 
 mild, clean flavor resembling well-ripened 
 cream. The texture should be fairly dry, yet 
 smooth and entirely free from lumps. There 
 should be no leaking whey, and each cheese 
 should be neatly wrapped. The cheese will 
 usually keep in good condition for two weeks 
 if kept in a cold place. From 100 pounds of 
 milk about 22 pounds of Neufchatel cheese can 
 be made, which sells for 20 to 40 cents per 
 pound, depending on its quality and the manner 
 of marketing. 
 
 Composition of Neufchatel Cheese. 
 
 Water 50% 
 
 Fat 24% 
 
 Proteids 18% 
 
 Sugar, lactic acid, etc. . . 5% 
 Ash 3% 
 
 100% 
 
FANCY CHEESE m AMERICA. 85 
 
 Precautions to Observe in Making Neufchatel 
 Cheese. 
 The making of Neufchatel cheese is easy and 
 very profitable, but in order to secure a uni- 
 formly good product each day strict attention 
 must be given to the control of temperatures, 
 acidity and moisture. High temperature, too 
 much rennet, too much acid, too rapid drying 
 and imeven drying all cause lumpy texture. It 
 is very important that the curd be properly 
 coagulated before being placed in the draining 
 process. If it is too soft or breaks up too much 
 in being transferred from the can to the 
 strainer, uneven drying usually results. In hot 
 weather the drying of the curd is hastened and 
 the development of acid retarded by draining 
 and working the curd in a cool room or by cov- 
 ering the curd with consecutive layers of ice. 
 
 Cream Cheese. 
 Cream cheese is one of the most delicious and 
 most largely used American-made fancy cheese. 
 Many concerns enjoy the profits from its sale, 
 but there is still a large market for an in- 
 creased production. 
 
 Method of Manufacture. 
 
 The method usually followed is similar to that 
 used in making American Neufchatel cheese, ex- 
 cept that thin cream testing at least 10% fat is 
 used in place of whole milk. The great disad- 
 
35 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 vantage in this method, however, is the danger 
 of a large loss of fat during the manufacturing 
 process. During the long period of coagula- 
 tion the fat rises to the top and is very diffi- 
 cult to reincorporate without serious loss. To 
 avoid tliis loss of fat the following method is 
 now much used with excellent results : 
 
 Whole milk (pasteurized preferred) is placed 
 in cans holding about 30 pounds each and 
 brought to a temperature of 75° F. One c.c. of 
 lactic acid culture and i/> c.c. of rennet extract 
 are diluted with a few ounces of cold water and 
 added and stirred separately into each can. In 
 about 18 hours the milk should be firmly coagu- 
 lated and the whey which separates from the 
 curd should have an acidity of about .35%. The 
 curd is then dipped on to a cotton-covered 
 strainer rack, or into cotton bags, to drain. 
 While draining, the contents of the draining 
 bags or rack should be stirred occasionally to 
 insure an even expulsion of whey and prevent 
 the formation of hard, dry particles. As soon 
 as the curd is sufficiently dry, or when all indi- 
 cation of free whey has ceased, 1 to 2 pounds of 
 rich cream is added and then 2% ounces of salt 
 to each 10 pounds of cheese. After salting, the 
 cheese should be allowed to stand for at least 
 an hour in a cool place, so that any whey which 
 is still present may escape. If this is not done 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA, 
 
 87 
 
 the cheese are liable to leak after packing. 
 When sufficiently dry the cheese is pressed, 
 either by hand or power devices, into rectangu- 
 lar shapes I%x2i/4x234 inches and wrapped in 
 parchment paper and tinfoil. Cream cheese of 
 this size will weigh % pound and retails for 
 at least 10 cents each. One hundred pounds of 
 4% milk, plus the added cream, will make ap- 
 
 
 Parts of a Cream Cheese Mold. 
 
 proximately 22 pounds of cheese, so that it 
 yields a large profit. 
 
 Average Composition of Cream Cheese. 
 
 Water U% 
 
 Fat 40% 
 
 Proteid 12% 
 
 Sugar, lactic acid, etc. . . 3% 
 Ash 1% 
 
 100% 
 
 Qualities of Cream Cheese. 
 
 Cream cheese should be clean in flavor, with 
 a distinct mild aroma resembling fresh butter. 
 
88 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 It should be of a creamy consistency with plenty 
 of body, but entirely free from lumps. When 
 kept in a cold place cream cheese will remain 
 in good condition for at least 10 days, but de- 
 teriorates rapidly in hot weather. It makes a 
 very desirable lunch cheese and is much used 
 for this purpose. 
 
 Defects in Cream Cheese, 
 
 The defects, with their causes and remedies 
 as described under cottage cheese, apply with 
 equal importance to Neufchatel and cream 
 cheese. 
 
 Sandwich Nut Cheese. 
 
 This style of cheese originated in the Depart- 
 ment of Dairy Industry of the New York State 
 College of Agriculture, and is one of the most 
 delicious varieties of soft cheese, being much 
 used in the preparation of cheese sandwiches. 
 
 Method of Manufacture. 
 
 To 10 pounds of cream cheese add one-half 
 pound of mixed walnuts and almonds. The nuts 
 should first be blanched by soaking in hot water 
 for a few minutes and then removing the dark- 
 colored skins with the fingers. The nuts are 
 ground finely in a meat-mincing machine and 
 mixed evenly through the cheese, which is 
 pressed into the regular cream cheese mold and 
 wrapped in parchment paper and tinfoil. These 
 weigh one-fourth pound and retail at 10 cents 
 each or 40 cents per pound. 
 
fancy cheese in america. 89 
 
 Peppeb-Cream Cheese or Pimento. 
 This variety of cheese was first suggested by 
 Mr. J. D. Frederickson of Chr. Hansen's Labo- 
 ratory, Little Falls, N. Y., and is used considera- 
 bly by those persons who desire spicy food- 
 stuffs. 
 
 Method of Manufacture. 
 
 To 10 pounds of American Neufchatel cheese 
 add one-fourth pound to one-half pound of red 
 peppers. The peppers should first be put 
 through a meat-mincing machine and ground to 
 a pulp. The cheese and peppers are then 
 mixed and pressed into rectangular shapes, 
 weighing about one-fourth pound. These usu- 
 ally retail at 40 cents per pound and must be 
 kept in a cool place. 
 
 Caraway Potato Cheese. 
 
 This is a soft cheese, of rather peculiar flavor, 
 due to the method of manufacture and the in- 
 gredients used. The process has recently been 
 developed by the Department of Dairy Indus- 
 try of the New York State College of Agri- 
 culture at Cornell University, and is very 
 simple. 
 
 Method of Manufacture, 
 
 A small quantity of American Neufchatel 
 cheese is made in the regular way. Before salt- 
 ing, however, mashed boiled potatoes are added 
 
90 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEHICA. 
 
 at the rate of 1 pound to 1 pound of cheese. Salt 
 is then applied at the rate of 2 ounces for 10 
 pounds of cheese. A few caraway seeds are 
 sprinkled over the curd and the whole mass 
 thoroughly mixed in a large wooden dish. The 
 cheese is then pressed into suitable shapes, 
 weighing one-fourth pound each, and wrapped 
 in parchment paper. They are ready for use as 
 soon as made, but improve if kept in a cool place 
 for a few days. 
 
 Olive-Cream Cheese. 
 
 This cheese also originated in the Department 
 of Dairy Industry of the New York State Col- 
 lege of Agriculture, and is used for the same 
 purposes as Sandwich Nut Cheese. 
 Method of Manufacture. 
 
 To 10 pounds of cream cheese add the meat of 
 2 dozen olives. The olives are first stoned and 
 then ground to a pulp in a meat-mincing ma- 
 chine. The cheese and olives are then mixed 
 and pressed into cylindrical shapes similar to 
 American Neuf chatel cheese. These weigh about 
 one-fourth pound each and retail for 40 cents 
 per pound. They are wrapped in parchment 
 paper and tinfoil, and if kept in a cold place 
 remain in good condition for at least 10 days. 
 
 Club Cheese. 
 Club cheese is one of the most common varie- 
 ties of fancy cheese, being manufactured most 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. Ql 
 
 extensively in Canada, New York and Michigan. 
 For those persons who desire a pronounced 
 flavor and taste, together with a smooth soft 
 texture in cheese, the club variety answers the 
 purpose better than any other. One important 
 quality in club cheese is that it can be spread 
 easily on biscuits or bread, and for this reason 
 it is used on almost every occasion when cheese 
 is served. 
 
 Method of Manufacture. 
 
 The method of making club cheese is very 
 simple and yet it requires considerable skill to 
 manufacture a uniformly good product from 
 day to day. The most important factor is the 
 use of suitable raw material, viz., cheddar 
 cheese and butter of good quality. The amount 
 of each of these constituents to be used is de- 
 termined by the quality of the cheese used and 
 the keeping quality desired in the club cheese. 
 
 The method consists in simply grinding up 
 some well-ripened cheddar cheese of good flavor 
 in a meat-mincing machine and adding a certain 
 amount of good butter to increase the softness 
 and richness of the cheese. If a fairly strong 
 flavored cheese is desired, cheese six months to 
 one year old should be used, while if a milder 
 taste is preferred, cheese about three months 
 old is better. If the cheese to be ground up is 
 dry in texture, it will require more butter to 
 
92 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEEICA. 
 
 make it smooth than would be required by a 
 softer cheese containing more moisture. Gen- 
 erally speaking, for home use and for reason- 
 ably quick consumption, 1 pound of butter to 8 
 pounds of cheese make very desirable propor- 
 tions. The mixture of cheese and butter is usu- 
 ally run through the mincing machine a second 
 time and then kneaded by hand to remove all 
 possibility of lumpiness. In large factories a 
 machine is used for this purpose. Occasionally 
 a small amount of mustard or brandy is added 
 to suit the taste of consumers. 
 
 Hoiv Cluh Cheese Is Marketed. 
 
 Club cheese is usually packed in glass or 
 wrapped in tinfoil. When jars are used they 
 should be of a size that can be conveniently used 
 on the dinner table or for picnics, lunches, etc. 
 
 In packing, the jars are first smeared on the 
 inside with melted butter to prevent air spaces 
 between the cheese and the glass where mold 
 might grow. The jars are filled to within one- 
 quarter inch of the top, covered with plain tin- 
 foil, and then with a tightly fitting cover. When 
 desired in smaller quantities, the cheese can be 
 more profitably put up in small packages, 
 wrapped first in waxed paper and then in tin- 
 foil. Club cheese usually retails for about 40 
 cents per pound. When stored in a cool place it 
 will keep for some time. 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 93 
 
 Casein Manufactuke. 
 
 During recent years the demand for casein 
 to be used in the manufacture of buttons, knife 
 handles, billiard balls, paper sizing, etc., has in- 
 creased to such an extent that much skimmed 
 milk is now used for this purpose. The dif- 
 ferent uses to which the prepared casein is put, 
 determine to a great degree the process of its 
 manufacture, but for all general purposes this 
 may be divided into two classes — natural casein 
 and acid cooked casein. 
 
 Natural Casein Manufacture. 
 
 Skimmed milk is placed in a wooden or tin 
 vat and heated to 115° F. About 10% sour whey 
 or buttermilk is then added and enough rennet 
 diluted in cold water (1 ounce to 5,000 pounds 
 of skimmed milk) to coagulate it in 2 hours. As 
 soon as it thickens, the temperature is raised 
 to 120° F., in order to render the curd tough 
 and firm. After a few minutes stirring with a 
 wooden hayrake, the whey is removed and the 
 curd placed on trays in a drying kiln, after 
 which it is run through a mill and packed in 
 bags for shipment. One hundred pounds of 
 skimmed milk makes about 3 pounds of casein, 
 which markets for 5 or 6 cents a pound. The 
 whey from this process is useful for hog feed- 
 ing purposes. 
 
94 FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 
 
 Acid Cooked Casein, 
 
 Skimmed milk is placed in a wooden vat and 
 heated by direct steam or otherwise to 120° F. 
 Enough sulphuric acid (usually 1 quart to 1,000 
 pounds skimmed milk) is then added to effect a 
 clear separation of the curd from the whey. 
 The acid should be diluted in 5 times its weight 
 of cold water, and be added gradually so that 
 too much may not be used. Sour milk requires 
 less acid, and an excess causes difficulty in the 
 gathering of the curd into a solid mass. After 
 the curd is precipitated and the whey is clear, it 
 should be drawn off, leaving the curd in the bot- 
 tom of the vat. The curd is then covered with 
 clean cold water and stirred vigorously so that 
 the water can remove all acid from the curd. 
 This water is drawn off and fresh water put on 
 and heated by direct steam to at least 175° F. 
 The curd is then stirred until it forms into a 
 solid mass about the consistency of bread 
 dough, when the water is removed. The curd 
 is then placed on a shelf or clean floor to dry 
 and sear over. It is then ready for shipment. 
 Sometimes it is dried in kilns at the creamery 
 and ground up before shipping. Casein thus 
 prepared nets only about 15 cents per 100 
 pounds of skimmed milk. In stirring the milk 
 while adding the acid, a wooden rake is used, 
 
FANCY CHEESE IN AMERICA. 95 
 
 but for stirring the curd in the hot water, a solid 
 iron garden rake is better. The whey from 
 casein made in this way contains much acid and 
 should not be used for feeding purposes. 
 
 Cheesemaking Facts. 
 The cleaner the milk, the better the cheese. 
 
 The richer the milk, the richer the cheese 
 and the greater the amount of it. 
 
 A clean flavored commercial starter, properly 
 used, determines the flavor of the finished 
 cheese. 
 
 Six factors that influence cheese texture are 
 fat, moisture, rennet, salt, bacteria and mold. 
 
 The controlling of moisture and acidity is one 
 of the most important problems in all cheese- 
 making. 
 
 No part of cheesemaking equipment is more 
 useful than an acid test. 
 
 The lower the temperature necessary to prop- 
 erly firm curd for any cheese, the smoother and 
 better will be the texture of the finished product. 
 
 Cheese made in imitation of imported prod- 
 ucts must be so designated and branded, in or- 
 der to comply with the requirements of the laws 
 of the United States and Canada. 
 
 The growth of mold on cheese surfaces, 
 forms certain products which neutralize the 
 cheese acid and soften or liquefy the interior. 
 
96 FANCY CHEESE IN AMEBICA. 
 
 Molded cheese ripen from the outside in- 
 wards. 
 
 Three minutes' stirring is usually sufficient 
 to thoroughly mix rennet with milk. 
 
 Pasteurization of milk eliminates undesirable 
 fermentations and disease-producing bacteria 
 from fancy cheese and their by-products. 
 
 A clean factory, properly equipped, with a 
 good water supply and system of sewage dis- 
 posal, is a large factor in determining the qual- 
 ity of cheese. 
 
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American Sheep Breeder 
 
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Modern Sheep 
 
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 History of Breeds 
 
 General Management 
 
 Sheep and Goat Hybrid 
 
 Sheep on the Average Farm 
 
 Care of the Ewe 
 
 Marking Lambs 
 
 In-Breeding 
 
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 Pastures and Forage Crops 
 
 Diseases 
 
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Domestic Sheep 
 
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 Various Crosses Advisable 
 
 Art of Feeding 
 
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 Dips and Dipping 
 Diseases — 69 Pages 
 
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ANGORA GOAT RAISING 
 
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 containing : 
 
 Origin and History and Description 
 
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 Importers 
 Care of Goats 
 Browsing 
 
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 Mohair and Its Uses 
 Skins and Their Uses 
 Meat and Market 
 Milk 
 
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