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 SETTLEES' GUIDE 
 
 — FOB THE 
 
 PACIFIC SLOPE, 
 
 Including the States of California, Oregon and 
 Nevada, and Territories of Washington and 
 Idaho, with a description of and 
 the peculiarities of each. 
 
 Describing minutely all the mere important bodies of the Public Lands en the Pacitic 
 Slope, Facilities for Settlement, Markets, Health, etc. 
 
 BY J. M. HAEPJSOJN". 
 
 MULTUM IN PARVO" 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO: 
 
 C. A. MURDOCK & CO., BOOK AND JOB P: 
 
 1875. 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by J. 
 Harrison, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 All rights reserved. 
 
 
BOOK OF INFORMATION AND 
 
 SETTLER'S GUIDE. 
 
 The writer of this little work having for some 
 time been engaged on a work of considerable mag- 
 nitude (Harrison's Guide and Kesources of the 
 Pacific Slope,) has been addressed by letter 
 and otherwise by many persons, both in the 
 East and on this Coast, seeking information in re- 
 gard to this section of country. Although we have 
 in every instance paid the best attention that our 
 time and circumstances would permit, yet owing 
 to the great diversity of topography, soil, climate, 
 productions, etc., of this Coast, it was impossible 
 to give any very definite or intelligible idea of the 
 country by any written or verbal communication gf 
 ordinary length. Besides, it became a heavy tax 
 on our time, not to say anything of the expense 
 attached, as it costs writers something to live as 
 well as other people. 
 
 In order to be able to devote more time to our 
 forthcoming work, and as a consequence make it 
 more complete, and at the same time supply a 
 pressing necessity, the writer has prepared the fol- 
 lowing pages in advance of his larger work now 
 
under preparation, embracing an experience of over 
 twenty-eight years on this Coast, the principal part 
 of the past five years having been devoted to the 
 exploration and examination of all the principal 
 bodies of agricultural and other lands of the Pacific 
 Slope, from Southern California to British Colum- 
 bia. ' 
 
 The writer being a practical farmer and business 
 man, and having cultivated the soil in various parts 
 of the States of California and Oregon and in 
 Washington Territory, and being familiar with all 
 parts of the Pacific Slope feels himself competent 
 to judge of matters pertaining thereto. 
 
 This work is not written in the interest of any par- 
 ticular section of this Coast, its chief and leading 
 feature being to point out the more important Gov- 
 ernment lands of this Coast, facilities for settle- 
 ment, market, health, etc. 
 
 In addition, it will contain remarks on the pecu- 
 liarities, topography, soil, productiveness, etc., of 
 each different section /)f the Pacific Slope, and will 
 be found invaluable to those in search of good and 
 valuable homes, and prevent their being imposed 
 upon by land speculators. The writer having been 
 through the mill himself, can speak from personal 
 experience and save those in search of homes and 
 good business openings much disappointment and 
 expense by his advice. Many on coming here from 
 the Atlantic States return, simply from a want 
 knowledge of the country. The interests of the 
 
states and Territories bordering on the Pacific 
 Coast are closely identified. This city in par- 
 ticular, being the metropolis and chief entrepot 
 of tbe Pacific SIojdc, has a great interest in the 
 whole country being settled. Every settler, no 
 matter in what part, adds so much to her prosper- 
 ity. 
 
 Every section of country has its drawbacks. 
 
 In this work, as in all others we have written, 
 we have been as particular to point out the 
 disadvantages the settler had to contend with, as 
 the advantages of each section. We know this is 
 not according to the general rule, but those who 
 pay for information have a right to expect it. This 
 we will endeavor to do to the best of our judgment 
 and ability. 
 
 CALIFOKNIA 
 
 Is noted for the great varietj^ of its productions 
 and the salubrity of its climate. Besides wheat, 
 barley, oats, corn, etc. , there are produced within 
 its borders about all the semi-tropical fruits, to- 
 gether with all the fruits in the Northern States, 
 It is also a country of extremes. Within its terri- 
 tory are found some of the richest, and also the 
 poorest desert-like country known. It has the big- 
 gest farms, raises the biggest squashes, beets, etc., 
 to be found anywhere. In fact, it would not be 
 California if things were not done on a large scale. 
 
It is also noted for its mineral springs, resorted to 
 by thousands for their supposed health-giving 
 properties. The climate is various; in the north- 
 west part the summers are moderately moist and 
 cool; in the south, extremely dry; and back in the 
 interior, oppressively warm ; (see our meteorological 
 tables in another part. ) The rainy season in this 
 State usually sets in in November, but there is 
 seldom sufficient rain to saturate the ground before 
 the last of December. The winter rains, owing to 
 the ^:eneral conformation of the country, often 
 cause floods, doing considerable damage. The 
 mountain streams being bold and rapid, their 
 waters come rushing into the valleys below, where 
 the streams become slack and dead-like, there being 
 little fall from thence seaward, causing a consider- 
 able portion of the low lands to overflow. This is 
 more particularly the case with the lower Sacra- 
 mento and San Joaquin valleys. Levees have been 
 constructed to prevent overflow on some of the low 
 lands of these valleys, but the past winter many of 
 them were broken and submerged, showing that 
 water when fenced out, will only rise so much the 
 higher on the outside. 
 
 The principal body of agricultural lands of this 
 State are embraced in the Sacramento and San Joa- 
 quin valleys, both joining together, the former 
 north, and the latter southward, being in the ag- 
 gregate three hundred miles in length with an 
 average width of about forty miles. 
 
The former has generally what is termed here an 
 adobe soil; the latter is composed principally of a 
 sandy loam, and in some parts on the east side of 
 the San Joaquin, it is nearly all sand, so much so, 
 that during the prevalance of the north winds it 
 drifts into huge banks like snow drifts. We saw 
 in one place a tract of about fifty acres that had 
 been blown away to the depth it had been plowed 
 after the wheat came up, leaving the print of the 
 bar and shear of the plow. 
 
 The great scourge of this section is the drouth 
 and'l^north winds. To remedy this in part, it is 
 pro^^osed to irrigate all, or a considerable portion 
 of this section, which, if done, will be at a great 
 sacrifice of health and increase of mortality. In 
 the first place, it is doubtful about there being a 
 sufficiency of water in a dry season, the time it is 
 most needed, the soil being of a very open and 
 porous nature. This, together with the dry, dessi- 
 cating north winds, would lick up the water at a ter- 
 rible rate when distributed over so large a section of 
 country. Flooding the land sufficient to saturate 
 it well in the winter season when there is but little 
 evaporation might not be injurious to health to any 
 great extent. This, together with the planting of 
 trees^ to break the north winds, we believe to be 
 the most feasible plan to reclaim these dry and 
 arid "sections. 
 
 At present the upper San Joaquin, King's Kiver, 
 and Tulare Lake country, is principally occupied 
 
8 
 
 by those having stock, for which, some think, in 
 its present condition, it is best adapted. 
 
 In referring to the land here being held in large 
 tracts, a ranchman present said: "A family here 
 would starve to death on one hundred and sixty 
 acres. " We remarked, that we thought it a very 
 poor country, where an ordinary sized family could 
 not make a good living on that amount of land. 
 Sheep raising is the chief business in this section. 
 By having a large extent of territory to range over, 
 considerable flocks may be kept. During a dry 
 season, large numbers are lost from starvation. 
 At such times, the feed being ate up, it is impos- 
 sible to drive them to where good pasturage may 
 be found. From Modesto northward to Tehama, 
 embracing the lower San Joaquin and the larger 
 part of the Sacramento valleys, includes a section, 
 in which, in ordinary yeara, a large amount of 
 grain is produced. In the upper part of the Sac- 
 ramento valley, there is but a very limited amount 
 of land suitable for cultivation, the larger part 
 being composed of a reddish, gravelly earth, afford- 
 ing a very scanty vegetation for stock. 
 
 In the southern counties bordering the coast, 
 there are very many fertile valleys, but they gener- 
 ally require to be irrigated to insure a crop. In 
 many parts there is no timber, making fuel and 
 fencing very costly. In about all the principal val- 
 leys the water is hard and bad. In drawing water 
 fresh from a well, it is found to be warm and dis- 
 
agreeable, althougli some, on getting used to it, do 
 not seem to mind it. In the mountain districts and 
 in the northern coast counties, the water is gener- 
 ally good. In these dry sections there is generally 
 a scarcity of feed. In travelling through them, we 
 were often troubled to obtain provender for our 
 animals. The owners stating they had not enough 
 for their own use . 
 
 Unthreshed barley, wheat, or oats, generally 
 cut before it is fully ripe, is used for hay, and we 
 have often found where threshed straw was used 
 as a substitute. Alfalfa is being introduced in 
 many places, (where irrigation can be carried out, ) 
 it seems to be pretty well adapted for cows and 
 sheep, but not so well for working animals, it being 
 too washy. 
 
 The coast country north of San Francisco, taking 
 into consideration the certainty of crops, climate, 
 water, health, etc, , has our preference. There are 
 in this section many fertile valleys, but the more 
 broken and mountainous parts are of little value, 
 affording only a scanty vegetation for stock. Near 
 the coast, the stock range is better and more last- 
 ing. The coast rains and fogs usually extend back 
 from twenty to thirty miles, their mark being very 
 perceptible, esj^ecially in a dry season, the crops 
 maturing much better, also a much heavier growth 
 of grass than is found further inland. There are 
 no Government lands in this State that we could, 
 at the present time, recommend. There are some 
 
10 
 
 good Government lands in the northeast part, in 
 Big Valley, Pitt River, Goose Lake, and through- 
 out that section. Small tracts may be found, but 
 they are situated in among high mountains where 
 the winters are long and severe. (See statistical 
 tables in another part.) 
 
 OREGON. 
 
 This State is highly favored with all the more 
 important and useful elements necessary to sustain 
 a large population. It contains a large area of 
 agricultural lands, that for productiveness and cer- 
 tainty of crops, cannot (probably) be excelled by 
 any other part of the world. In the extent and 
 variety of the more useful timbers it is probably 
 ahead of any other State in the Union, while its 
 coal and iron mines are now successfully w^orked 
 and are known to be of great extent. Besides, 
 there are other minerals, gold, silver, copper, lead, 
 etc. Oregon is divided into two grand divisions 
 by the Cascade Range of Mountains. The western 
 is marked by a more humid atmosphere, and 
 about half its area is covered with heavy forests, 
 while the eastern has a dry atmosphere. Its 
 timber is confined to the more elevated and moun- 
 tainous parts, the residue being covered with a* 
 luxuriant growth of grass and generally possessing 
 a good soil. Its western half might still be sub- 
 divided, its dividing line would be the Calapooia 
 
11 
 
 Mountains, being rather a spur connecting the 
 Cascade with the Coast Range of Mountains in 
 about latitude 44 deg. north. The southern half of 
 the western division being very similar in climate, 
 productions, etc., to Northern California. This 
 division will include that section lying between the 
 Cascade and Coast Range of Mountains, the for- 
 mer on the east and the latter on the west, with 
 the Calapooia Mountains for its northern boundary, 
 embracing all the country from thence southward 
 to the California line. This section will about em- 
 brace the northern limits for the successful cultiva- 
 tion of the grape and peach, although they are now 
 both raised in favorable localities northward into 
 "Washington Territory. In all the valleys of this sec- 
 tion corn is successfully raised. Wheat, barley and 
 oats, also do well. On going from this section 
 westerly over the Coast Range, we find still another 
 climate, the vegetation also differing considerably, 
 caused principally by the coast rains, and down 
 near the coast to a greater or less extent by the 
 fogs. These coast rains usually extend inland from 
 the coast thirty or forty miles, or to the summit of 
 the Coast Range, where they give out They fall 
 occasionally during the spring, and sometimes in 
 the summer months. They are a peculiarity of the 
 Vhole coast from San Francisco northward, but are 
 more frequent and copious northward. 
 
12 
 
 WALLAMET VALLEY. 
 
 This valley is the largest body of agricultural 
 land in the State, and taking into consideration 
 the certainty and uniformity of its crops, one of 
 the most important bodies on the Pacific Slope. 
 It is one hundred and fifty miles long, with an 
 average width of about forty miles. The general 
 course of the Wallamet River is near the centre 
 of the valley, receiving from either side at quite 
 regular intervals its tributaries, fringed along their 
 banks with cotton wood, fir, ash, and maple, the 
 intermediate space being mostly prairies, with some 
 scattering oaks along their borders. On the east 
 side of the valley, the Cascade Range, with its line 
 of verdant hue stretching north and south, with an 
 occasional snow peak looming up into the horizon, 
 and on the west, the Coast Range, having a far less 
 altitude with no lines of pei-petual snow, but pos- 
 sessing a grandeur pleasant to look upon. " The 
 soil along the banks of the Wallamet and its 
 tributaries, is composed of sand, vegetable matter, 
 and various decomposed earths, and may be con- 
 sidered strictly alluvial. " This section is about all 
 thickly settled and contains the heaviest part of the 
 population of the State. One remarkable feature 
 of this State is, that it has never, since its first set- 
 tlement, known a failure of its crops, nor plague of 
 any description. There being, as yet, no rapid nor 
 cheap mode of transportation between this State 
 
IB 
 
 and the Atlantic States, has operated as a bar to its 
 rapid settlement. But for all that, there is a steady 
 flow of emigration to this State, and as it becomes 
 better known, will increase. (See meteorological 
 and statistical tables in another part.) 
 
 NEVADA. 
 
 Taken from the Alia California: *' Nevada is a 
 desert. It has an area of 112,000 square miles, 
 surpassing considerably in size any State east of 
 the Mississippi, and has got only 50,000 inhabi- 
 tants. In 1870, the number, according to the Fed- 
 eral census, was only 42,491, and in the meantime 
 the increase has not been large. It is not neglected 
 because of inaccessiblity. In proportion to the 
 population, it has more railroad than any other 
 State in the Union. It has 554 miles, about one 
 mile for eighty people, whereas New York has one 
 for 500. It is intersected through the middle by 
 the Pacific Eailroad, which transjDorts large num- 
 bers of capitalists and laborers across its territory 
 every month. It does not suffer from obscurity. 
 It is advertised through the world by the richness 
 of the Comstock Lode, which sends tons of its 
 silver bars every day to Europe, and excites the 
 attention of speculators everywhere by the tre- 
 mendous fluctuations of its stocks. And yet Ne- 
 vada is a desert. Its mountains generally have no 
 timber, and its valleys are covered with the forbid- 
 
14 
 
 den and worthless sage brush. Its situation in the 
 best part of the temperate zone— between parallels 
 35 and 42 deg. of latitude — does not protect it from 
 desolation. Its great misfortune is the dryness of 
 the ^climate. The average rainfall does not exceed 
 fom-Jnclies in a year. " This State contains some 
 bodies of good (although limited) land for cultiva- 
 tion and grazing purpose. They are usually situ- 
 ated about the sinks of the mountain streams. 
 The ranchmen and farmers of this section, that 
 have good locations are generally doing well. 
 There are, also, some good government lands in 
 this State, but taking into consideration the climate 
 and other reasons not necessary to mention here, 
 we could not recommend this State as a desirable 
 place for any one to make a home in. Nevada has 
 not a^single navigable river. 
 
 WASHINGTON TEKRITORY 
 
 Is the extreme northwest part of United States ter- 
 ritory, excepting Alaska, which is considerably fur- 
 ther north. Joining British Columbia on the north, 
 and Oregon and Idaho on the south and east. 
 Like'^Oregon it is divided into two grand divisions 
 by^the Cascade Range of Mountains, the general 
 features of the two divisions being very similar to 
 that of Oregon, there being, however, less prairie 
 and open country in western Washington than in 
 the same division of Oregon. The western division 
 
15 
 
 is admirably situated for trade, commerce, ship- 
 building, etc. Lumbering, coal mining and ship- 
 building are now the leading industries of this 
 section. It contains considerable bodies of agri- 
 cultural and grazing lands, much of it yet govern- 
 ment land. The eastern division of Washington 
 Territory is best adapted for stock raising. This 
 section contains a large area of good agricultural 
 land, but there being at present no cheap mode of 
 transportation to a market, but little farming is 
 done in this section. Washington Territory has 
 little or no waste land, although some of its heavy 
 forests may not be made available for many years 
 to come. 
 
 IDAHO TEEEITORY. 
 
 Idaho forms part of the basin of the Columbia, 
 and is drained by Snake River and by Clark's Fork 
 of the Columbia River and their tributaries. Its 
 greatest length from north to south is 410 miles, 
 its width on the southern boundary being 251 
 miles, with a northern boundary (joining British 
 Columbia) of 40 miles. Few Territories are more 
 copiously watered than Idaho. The chief resources 
 of Idaho, at present, are its gold and silver mines. 
 Stock raising is also engaged in to a considerable 
 extent, for which it is well adapted. Farming is 
 only engaged in to the extent of supplying home 
 demands. The chief outlets are by way of the 
 
16 
 
 Central Pacific Railroad for the southern part, and 
 by way of the Columbia Eiver for the northern 
 part of the Territory. Considerable quantities of 
 wool, hides and furs, are sent out of the Territory 
 annually. It offers good inducements to those 
 wishing to go into the stock business, but for small 
 farmers it is not so well adapted, on account of 
 their being no near and convenient market. There 
 are considerable bodies of good government land 
 in Idaho yet unoccupied. The best and principal 
 bodies of it are in the northern part of the Terri- 
 tory. The climate is much the same as that of 
 eastern Oregon and Washington. 
 
 NEBALEM EIVER 
 
 Is the first stream of any considerable size running 
 into the ocean south of the Columbia. It takes it 
 rise in the highlands south of the Columbia, and 
 by its meanderings is about seventy-five miles in 
 length. For the first fifteen or twenty miles, it 
 pursues a northerly course, after which its general 
 course is west to southwest. The river has cut a 
 deep channel through soft sandstone and at low water 
 (with the exception of an occasional riffle) has a 
 very gentle current, and is generally free of drift- 
 wood or other obstructions, and does not seem to 
 overflow its banks to any great extent. A few 
 miles below, where the old military road crosses it, 
 and about twenty-five miles from its mouth, the 
 
17 
 
 river runs through a cafion, where it has a suc- 
 cession of falls and rapids for a few miles — where 
 the mountains close into the river. The North Fork 
 enters the main river about eight miles from its 
 mouth. For a few miles above its mouth the river 
 has an average width of about half a mile, but in 
 places is over one mile in width, and has a good 
 depth of water for about fourteen miles. The en- 
 trance of this river from the ocean is obstructed 
 by a bar, the channel being very shallow and 
 changeable. During the summer months, when 
 the north winds prevail, the channel, from its 
 mouth, makes a short curve to the southward, fol- 
 lowing near the beach for a considerable distance, 
 but during the winter months, when southerly 
 winds prevail, the channel trends to the north- 
 ward. The entrance to this river, at present, is 
 hardly practicable for ocean craft, except with the 
 aid of steam during high water, and when the sea 
 is comparatively smooth. Its entrance, however, is 
 susceptible of being improved by means of a break- 
 water to confine the channel and prevent the sand 
 drifting and filling up. The large bodies of valu- 
 able timber and vast deposits of coal in this sec- 
 tion, together with the settlement of these parts, 
 now soon to be realized, will soon render such a 
 work an imperative necessity. 
 
 The bottom lands of the Nehalem are of a light 
 alluvial soil, and are highly productive. AVe never 
 saw finer vegetables than we found growing in the 
 
18 
 
 gardens of the settlers in this valley, such as pota- 
 toes, cabbages, onions, beans, corn, etc. We also 
 saw some very fine vrheat, oats, and barley. It is 
 also less subject to frosts, there being seldom any 
 frosts before the middle of November. The prin- 
 cipal part of the valley is covered with a heav}^ 
 growth of underbrush, such as vine, maple, crab- 
 apple, salmon berry, elder, and hazel, with some 
 scattering fir, spruce, alder, ash and maple. There 
 is but little open prairie land. On the waters of 
 the upper Nehalem, there are considerable bodies 
 of open highlands, the timber consisting chiefly of 
 a small growth of fir; also vine, maple, soft maple, 
 alder, elder, and hazel. These highlands have very 
 good soil, being generally a black vegetable loam, 
 and mostly free of stone or gravel. Back of these 
 highlands the country becomes still more elevated, 
 till we come to what might be termed a back bone 
 or divide between this stream and the waters of 
 the Wallamet and Columbia, the more mountainous 
 part being covered with a heavy growth of timber. 
 The upper Nehalem is somewhat warmer (but not 
 oppressive) in the summer season, and not so sub- 
 ject to fogs, as it is down near the coast. Coal of su- 
 perior quality has been found near the North Fork, 
 with an easy grade to the river, about three miles 
 distant. Kecently, coal has been found in various 
 parts of the upper Nehalem. This, together with 
 the general conformation of this section, show 
 pretty conclusively that this whole region is under- 
 laid with coal. 
 
19 
 
 So far, the settlers' stock here have wintered well 
 without being fed, and a moderate amount of stock 
 running at large would seldom require provender. 
 There is considerable wild grass and peavine, a 
 species of w^eed that starts up in February, is found 
 in the bottoms. The elk feed on it, and cattle, also, 
 are very fond of it. The scouring-rush is also 
 found in the low lands. Timothy and clover take 
 easily and thrive exceedingly well in all this coast 
 country. 
 
 We estimate there being about one hundred 
 thousand acres of choice bottom, and about the 
 same amount of table and high lands of choice 
 quality; in all, two hundred thousand acres; be- 
 sides much other land that will eventually be set- 
 tled, all situated on the Nehalem and its tributaries. 
 In this estimate we have not taken into considera- 
 tion the more mountainous and heavily timbered 
 lands that will yet be valuable for their timber, and 
 after the timber is taken o£f, will still be valuable 
 for grazing purposes, as it has been found by ex- 
 perience that all ihe tame grasses, such as timothy 
 and clover, take readily here when the large timber 
 is removed, whether by burning, or otherwise. 
 
 If the above estimate be correct, it would furnish 
 twelve hundred and fifty families with one hundred 
 and sixty acres to each family, there being now 
 only about one hundred settlers in all this region. 
 This section is well adapted for dairying, and (as 
 the country becomes more opened) for farming 
 
20 
 
 purposes. Although most of these lands have to 
 be cleared, their great productiveness and sureness 
 of crops will amply repay the husbandman for the 
 extra labor bestowed in bringing it under cultiva- 
 tion. There being numerous little brooks and 
 springs of the purest water, with no miasmatic in- 
 fluences, the settler here need have no fear of chills 
 and fever, so common in many parts of the west. 
 Heretofore, the want of facilities for ingress and 
 egress to and from this section has operated as a 
 bar to its settlement. But of late several trails 
 have been cut into this section, and two or three 
 wagon roads commenced, and will, without doubt, 
 ere long, be finished. (See our table of routes and 
 distances.) 
 
 TILLAMOOK BAY 
 
 Is about fifty miles south of the Columbia Eiver 
 and eight miles south of the mouth of the Nehalem. 
 It is about twelve miles long (from its mouth to 
 Lincoln City, the head of navigation,) and about 
 four miles wide at its widest part. The entrance is 
 narrow, but has a straight channel with about four- 
 teen feet af water on the bar. Just inside the en- 
 trance are some sunken rocks, which are bare at 
 low water. Two schooners are at the present time 
 engaged in the trade between this place and Port- 
 land, the principal exports being butter, cheese , 
 hides, and potatoes. This bay commands a por- 
 tion of the trade of the Nehalem Valley, also Netart& 
 
21 
 
 Bay and the surrounding country, and aa the 
 country settles up its trade will become of consid- 
 erable importance. The Minna, Kelsy, Doherty, 
 Trask and Tillamook rivers, all enter Tillamook 
 Bay, and vary from thirty to fifty miles in length ; 
 each of them having more or less good bottom 
 lands on them. The Doherty and Tillamook rivers 
 are each settled for about four miles up, and the 
 Trask is settled for about eight miles up. The 
 country watered by these streams is mostly mount- 
 ainous and timbered, but possesses a good soil with 
 considerable range for stock. In many places the 
 large timber is nearly all burnt up by the fires that 
 have passed through it. In such places there is 
 usually found considerable grass growing. The 
 Oak Horton Prairie (usually pronounced Oquarton,) 
 lies between the Trask and Doherty rivers, and at 
 present is the chief settlement. Next in import- 
 ance is Long Prairie, situated on the south side of 
 Trask, and between it and the Tillamook River. 
 The prairies have a black, rich looking soil, covered 
 with grass and fern, but on being cultivated, have 
 been found to be inferior to the timbered lands, 
 and are now used principally for grazing purposes. 
 There is a considerable amount of tide land about 
 the mouths of the different rivers emptying into 
 the bay, that is valuable for hay and grazing pur- 
 poses. This section is well adapted for dairying, 
 which is now carried on here to a considerable ex- 
 tent, there being green food nearly the year round, 
 
22 
 
 an abundance of pure cold water, and the climate 
 favorable. Vegetables, such as potatoes, cabbage, 
 turni^DS, carrots, and peas, all thrive and jdeld 
 largely; peas being raised for fattening hogs — 
 generally finishing on grain. This coast country 
 is not so well adapted for the growing of wheat, 
 but oats and barley yield very heavy crops. It is 
 also well adapted for the production of grass, such 
 as timothy and clover, although there is at times 
 some difficulties in curing it, especially down the 
 coast. Fruits, such as apples, pears, plums, 
 cherries, gooseberries, and currents, are profusely 
 grown. Stock raising is also engaged in to a con- 
 siderable extent, and beef cattle are often driven to 
 the Portland market. 
 
 LINCOLN CITY, 
 
 The principal shipping and business point of this 
 section of country, is situated on a slough connect- 
 ing with the bay, and is conveniently situated for 
 trade with the surrounding country. Several small 
 vessels have been built here by its citizens, that 
 have since either been sold in other ports, or are 
 engaged in the commerce of this place. Hereto- 
 fore, this section has been difficult of access, the 
 only means of communication being a difficult trail 
 leading over the Coast Kange Mountains to the 
 Wallamet Valley, or by sail vessel to Portland. 
 But recently a wagon road has been made and 
 another commenced, both leading to the Wallamet 
 
23 
 
 Valley. These roads will give a new impetus to 
 the settlement of this part of the country. About 
 five miles south of Tillamook we come to 
 
 NETARTS BAY, 
 
 "Which is a small bay with shallow entrance; but is 
 occasionally entered by schooners of light draught. 
 Its trade will probably be, to a great extent, tribu- 
 tary to Tillamook Bay. Oystering is carried on 
 here to some extent, and it is said that the largest 
 oysters north of San Francisco are found in this 
 bay. No fresh water streams of any considerable 
 size enter it, and as yet, but few settlers have 
 located in this vicinity. 
 
 YAQUINNA BAY, 
 
 At the present time, is the only place of any com- 
 mercial importance between Tillamook and the 
 XJmpquaEiver. It has a narrow entrance, with about 
 twelve feet of water on the bar. Some commerce is 
 carried on between this place and San Francisco; 
 lumber being the chief article of export. Oyster- 
 ing is also carried on; several vessels having been 
 built here. A steamer is employed in transpo-rt 
 ation and towing in the bay. There is also a large 
 lumber mill in successful operation; and coal has 
 recently been discovered in this vicinity. This bay 
 is connected with the Wallamet Valley by a good 
 wagon road, and the subject of a railroad connect- 
 
24 
 
 ing this bay with the Wallamet, has of late been 
 considerably agitated, and it will probably soon be 
 built. 
 
 This being the nearest tide water to a large ex- 
 tent of the upper part of the Wallamet Valley; 
 and this coast country, which although considerably 
 broken, possesses a good soil, will eventually make 
 Yaquinna Bay of considerable importance. Very 
 little of this coast country (between the Wallamet 
 Valley and the coast) is now settled. The soil, 
 even to the top of the mountains, is good, and 
 there is more or less level land on all the streams 
 that is extremely rich. So there is hardly any of 
 it but that will make good pasturage for stock, 
 the ground never suffering from drouth, the grass 
 grows nearly the whole year. 
 
 Many years ago the largest part of the timber of 
 this section was killed by fire, since which, other 
 fires have gradually burned the deadened timbers, 
 so that in many places there is hardly any left. 
 At present these burnt districts are chiefly covered 
 with fern, briers, grass, etc. The settlements of this 
 section are principally confined to the roadside and 
 adjoining the bay. There was a grant of land of 
 
 alternate sections miles in width on each 
 
 side of the road to the company that constructed 
 it. This land, we believe, is for sale, at very rea- 
 sonable rates. But outside of their limits (to the 
 best of our recollection, five miles in width on each 
 side of the road,) there is a large extent of country 
 suitable for settlement. 
 
26 
 
 coos BAY 
 
 " Is nineteen miles south of the TJmpqua. Its en- 
 trance is north of, and immediately against the 
 highland, forming Cape Arago, which extends five 
 miles west, beyond, and at right angles with the 
 line of the coast. The cape being bold land, forms 
 a barrier to the escape of the drifting sands from 
 the upper coast, thereby causing a continual change 
 of channel and shoal water on the bar. * * * 
 From the peculiar position of the bar as a recept- 
 acle of drift sand, no improvement of a perma- 
 nently beneficial character can be made. The 
 trade of this bay is extensive and important, con- 
 sisting chiefly in coal and lumber; its commerce 
 being all with San Francisco. Extensive deposits 
 of coal and vast forests of valuable timber are found 
 in this vicinity, the latter consisting chiefly of fir, 
 spruce and cedar. It has been estimated an aver- 
 age of sixteen vessels per week arrive at Coos Bay. 
 Steam tugs are employed to tow vessels in and out 
 over the bar, but it is not practicable for vessels to 
 enter or depart during very heavy weather." 
 
 Two large coasting steamers are now employed 
 in the trade between Coos Bay and San Francisco, 
 making weekly trips. There are several thriving 
 towns on this bay, the principal of which is Marsh- 
 field, near the head of the bay. It is conveniently 
 situated for supplying the coal mines, mills, and 
 logging camps of this section. 
 
The Coos River, on which is situated the oldest 
 settlement of this section, empties into the bay 
 nearly opposite Marshfield. This place also re- 
 ceives a considerable amount of trade from the 
 Coquille River, by way of the isthmus, over which 
 a railroad is now in operation, connecting the 
 waters of the Coquille with Coos Bay. Two steam- 
 ers are engaged in plying to all points on the bay. 
 Shipbuilding is also carried on at different points 
 on the bay, employing several hundred men. 
 
 There is a considerable amount of tide land join- 
 ing on the bay and on the many sloughs and streams 
 connecting with it, that is well adapted for hay, 
 grazing, dairying, etc. We believe they are mostly 
 taken up as State swamp lands. The highlands 
 south of the bay are sufficiently level, mostly cov- 
 ered with dead timber and brush; some of it quite 
 open; but the soil, so far as we examined it, was 
 generally poor. All this section is believed to be 
 underlaid with coal. The soil on the highlands, 
 east and north of the bay, is some better, on which 
 the principal part of the timber has been killed by 
 fires, leaving many of the dead trunks standing; 
 since which there has sprung up a considerable 
 amount of small growth, it being mostly cherry, 
 willow, elder, briers, etc.; with a considerable 
 amount of range for stock in it. There is in this 
 section plenty of government land of this quality, 
 in from one to six miles of tide water and naviga- 
 tion. In this section, by which we mean the Coos 
 
27 
 
 Bay, Coquille River, and country south to Rogue 
 River, embracing an area of about three thousand 
 square miles, at least two thirds of it is well 
 adapted for settlement, while only about one 
 twentieth of it is now settled. About one third of 
 this area is sufficiently level, while two thirds of it 
 might be set down as quite rough, but not any 
 more so than a great deal of California, that is now 
 settled with roads running in every direction; for 
 instance, Mendocino County; while the soil here is 
 superior to that. The coal mines, lumber mills, 
 ship building, together with the gold mines near 
 the coast, make a ready market for all the produce 
 raised so far. And there is a considerable amount 
 of the supplies for Coos Bay that are yet shipped 
 from San Francisco, for instance hay, when there 
 is an abundanbe of the best hay land here lying 
 out to waste. Having described and pointed out 
 some of the natural advantages of this section, we 
 will now state the objectionable part. First, it is 
 a new country; there are yet few roads; roads 
 have been projected, and made, or partly made, in 
 all the settled parts. There is only one wagon 
 road connecting this section with the outside 
 world; the Coos Bay and Roseburg wagon road, 
 with two branches connecting with the Coquille 
 River in two places. There are trails up and down 
 the coast, and to all the principal points. Most of 
 the settlers live on or near tide water, where they 
 can send off their produce and get their supplies 
 
28 
 
 by boat. There is a steam schooner, the " Cor- 
 delia," Captain Kadcliff, plying between the Co- 
 quille Kiver and San Francisco, carrying away 
 lumber and produce ; bringing back in return sup- 
 plies for the settlers. Second, objections are made 
 to so much timber; (see our article on how to make 
 a farm;) we prefer a country with rather an abund- 
 ance of timber to one where there is none; it is hard 
 to suit everybody. There are timbered lands in 
 this section that will, in a few years, bring over 
 one hundred dollars an acre for the timber alone. 
 Third, in a new country like this especially, while 
 thinly settled, it is tedious and laborious making 
 roads; but mind, if you wait for the roads to be 
 made, and everything nice and convenient, you 
 may expect to pay lifty dollars, or more, an acre, 
 for your land. 
 
 THE COQUILLE RIVER 
 
 Takes it rise in the Coast Range of mountains, and 
 is about seventy-five miles in length. Although of 
 no considerable length, it waters a considerable ex- 
 tent of country, having three main forks, besides 
 numerous other tributaries. It enters the Pacific 
 about 43 deg. 15 min. north, and thirty miles north 
 of Port Orford. It is about 120 yards wide at its 
 mouth at low tide, but widens out from a half to a 
 mile in width on ascending it, for a few miles. 
 The tide flows up it for forty- two miles, and is 
 navigable for small steamers and boats for that dis- 
 
29 
 
 tance. The settlers take small boats twelve miles 
 further up during the wet season. With no great 
 amount of labor this river could be made a splen- 
 did stream for navigation for about fifty miles of its 
 length. The entrance to this river is obstructed 
 by a bar, but more particularly by some rocks, 
 through and between which, the present channel 
 runs. Just outside, and in the south side of the 
 channel, is a sunken rock, that shows at low water. 
 About two hundred yards from, and about due 
 west of the entrance, is another sunken rock; the 
 present channel seems to run chiefly to the south 
 of it. The channel runs close to and in among 
 some large rocks to the south and west of the en- 
 trance, only a short distance over the bar, not over 
 half a mile from the mouth of the river, to deep 
 water; there are a great many rocks to the southward 
 of the entrance, but none on the north side. In 
 former years, the entrance of this river was consid- 
 erably to the northward of where it now is; but of 
 late years, the drifting sands have crowded the 
 channel in among the rocks to the southward. 
 About half a mile above the present mouth, there 
 being a hard bottom and good foundation with a 
 narrow channel, it would be no very difficult matter 
 to turn it through by the way of its old channel, 
 which would avoid the rocks that block up its pas- 
 sage so boldly at present. This, together with 
 some precautionary measures taken to prevent the 
 drifting sands from encroaching on the channel, 
 
30 
 
 would make the entrance practicable and feasible 
 for ordinary sized coasting vessels. There being 
 in this section extensive coal fields and some of the 
 most valuable timber on the Pacific Coast, together 
 with a large extent of rich agricultural lands, render 
 such a work necessary, and we have no doubt that 
 sooner or later it will be done. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY, SOIL, CLIMATE, LANDS, ETC., OF THIS SECTION. 
 
 The river bottom has an average width of about 
 one mile, a considerable portion of it from one to 
 two miles in width, with an alluvial soil, producing 
 good crops of wheat, oats, hay, peas, potatoes, 
 cabbages, etc. ; very good corn is raised on the up- 
 per part of the river; wheat yields from forty to 
 eighty bushels to the acre, and some of the farmers 
 here claim to have raised one hundred bushels to 
 the acre. The lower part of the river is better 
 adarpted for hay, grazing, dairying, etc., there 
 being extensive tide flats free of bush and covered 
 with a luxuriant growth of native grass, affording 
 good pasture the entire year. The bottoms on the 
 upper part of the river are covered with a heavy 
 growth of valuable timber, composed of myrtle, 
 maple, ash, and high up there is some white oak; 
 there is also crab apple, salmon bush, elder, etc. 
 On the highlands adjoining, there are fir, cedar, 
 chestnut, and oak; near the coast the spruce pre- 
 vails. The highlands adjoining, are more or less 
 broken, considerable of it sufficiently level for cul- 
 
31 
 
 tivation, and all adapted for grass and grazing, 
 where not covered with too heavy a growth of tim- 
 ber. Probably two thirds of these lands have no 
 heavy timber on them, having been burnt off in 
 former years, since which a considerable growth of 
 brush has sprung up, together with briers, etc,, 
 affording good range for a limited number of stock. 
 There is also a great amount of peavine through- 
 out the whole Coast Range; cattle are yerj fond of 
 it. These highlands have usually a light soil; in 
 places a black vegetable mould; in alder flats and 
 in some parts a sandy loam; there is very little of 
 it gravelly or stony to any injurious extent. We 
 saw orchard grass, fruit trees, and vegetables of 
 good growth in a number of places on these high- 
 lands. The bottoms being so much more product- 
 ive, these highlands have so far been neglected, 
 but they are better and generally more productive 
 than much of the land in the east, that, without 
 any improvement, brings fifty dollars an acre in a 
 cold climate where they are frozen up half the year. 
 Whereas, here in these hills, stock lives the year 
 round without feed or shelter. High up on the 
 North and Middle Forks and ther tributaries, the 
 bottom lands are yet vacant, and nearly all the 
 highlands are unoccupied and belong to the gov- 
 ernment — a good deal of it surveyed . 
 
 From the eighteenth of February till the first 
 of September, 1874, we spent our time in this sec- 
 tion, renting a piece of ground on the North Fork, 
 
82 
 
 one mile above its junction with the main river, on 
 which we raised some vegetables. In order to oc- 
 cupy the time, and also to become more thoroughly 
 acquainted with this section, a considerable portion 
 of our time was sj^ent in travelling over and ex- 
 amining the surrounding country. 
 
 The following observations of the weather in 
 this locality are taken from our note-book: From 
 18th to 22d of February, weather mild and clear; 
 grass growing; cattle fit for beef that have win- 
 tered without being fed. February 22d — a light 
 skift of snow in the morning; sun came out about 
 noon; snow all gone before night. Weather clear 
 and mild till March 1st; snowed or rained most of 
 the da}^; has rained or snowed more or less every 
 day since up to the 16th of March; but not over 
 two inches of snow at any one time; then very 
 pleasant and clear; foggy in the morning, till about 
 9 A.M.; a few light showers about the last of the 
 month; some frost in the morning when the fog- 
 failed to appear. Very nice weather up to the 
 12th of April, with only a few gentle showers; then 
 for three days some heavy showers; but still good 
 growing weather. The fogs usually set in during 
 the night, lasting till 8 or 10 o'clock the next morn- 
 ing, which prevents frost; so that frosts are late 
 making their appearance; along the coast and in 
 some localities it rarely frosts during the entire 
 year. April 24th — we have had but two frosts 
 within the past month, and although we have had 
 
33 
 
 tomatoes up all this month, and without cover, they 
 have never suffered from frost. Since the 15th of 
 March we have had a beautiful spring; having nice 
 gentle showers, as wanted. Had quite a heavy 
 rain last of May, making the ground quite wet; 
 then again in about a week a rain of several days* 
 duration, raining at intervals; occasional showers 
 till last of June ; only two or three light rains from 
 June till September. There was more rain here 
 the past summer than usual; so the settlers say. 
 Throughout the summer months the nights were 
 pleasantly cool for rest and sleep, while the days 
 were never oppressively warm. 
 
 PORT ORFORD 
 
 *' The next place south, is a roadstead, latitude 42 
 deg. 45 min. north; longitude 124 deg. 30 min. 
 west. It is the most westerly port on the American 
 coast, south of Alaska. It is a deep, broad, capa- 
 cious roadstead, having on the west and north a 
 headland, perpendicular on the harbor side, and 
 three hundred and fifty feet in altitude. The bot- 
 tom is sand .and mud, clear and free, and gives 
 good anchorage. A quarter of a mile outside of 
 the extreme south point of the heads, the water 
 deepens rapidly and soon attains a great depth, the 
 effect of which is to prevent heavy ground swells 
 setting in at the roadstead. From the south point 
 of the heads easterly, the harbor is four miles 
 broad; there are no sunken rocks; all the dangers 
 
34 
 
 are above water. It is equi-distant from San Fran- 
 cisco and Puget Sound, and two hundred and 
 twenty miles south of the Columbia River. The 
 land is high and prominent, effectually protecting 
 the harbor on three sides. In the reports of the 
 United States Coast Survey it is laid down as the 
 best and most capacious roadstead or summer har- 
 bor on the coast. The heads are formed of most 
 durable rock, with bold water from seven to ten 
 fathoms immediately against them. A wall, con- 
 structed in a line east by south from the extreme 
 southerly point of the heads, four hundred yards 
 in length, would at any and every season of the 
 year, protect fifty vessels of the largest size and 
 would answer the demands of commerce for many 
 years. If greater accomodations should be required 
 in the future, the wall could be extended two miles, 
 leaving then sufficient space for vessels of the 
 largest burden to round to, take in sail and come 
 to anchor in any gale, with no fear of a lee shore. 
 Northwest fogs never enter the roadstead of Port 
 Orford, a peculiarity which distinguishes it from 
 every other harbor on the coast south of the Co- 
 lumbia. * * * Between the bay ©f San Fran- 
 cisco and Puget Sound, a distance measured by 
 more than ten degrees of latitude, there is no 
 harbor that a vessel can enter in heavy southern 
 weather. Nature, which has been otherwise so 
 prodigal to the Pacific Coast, has denied to it har- 
 bors of refuge for its commerce. " 
 
35 
 
 For the above we are indebted to an article in 
 the AUa California, by Captain William Tichnor, 
 one of the pioneer navigators of this coast. Port 
 Orford has been spoken of in connection with 
 making' it a harbor of refuge for vessels in distress, 
 and from our own knowledge of the coast, we be- 
 lieve it possesses superior merits over other points 
 named for that purpose. Such improvement of the 
 harbor once made, it would probably soon become 
 a place of considerable commercial importance, as 
 it w^ould be the most available point for shipment 
 for a large extent of good agricultural country, in- 
 cluding the Coquille, Rogue, and Sixes Rivers. 
 Besides, there are extensive coal fields, and some 
 of the most valuable timber in this section to be 
 found on the coast. This section offers good in- 
 ducements to those wishing to secure situations in 
 a good section of countr}' that will soon grow up 
 to importance. A large portion of this section is 
 yet unoccupied, being off the main travelled 
 thoroughfare, it has not received that attention it 
 otherwise would. 
 
 South of Fort Orford to Rogue River, a distance 
 of about thirty miles, there is an extent of countiy, 
 although it is quite broken yet; on all the little 
 streams there are more or less good bottom lands; 
 the very best of land; and in places considerable 
 bodies of it with good range on the adjacent hills 
 for sto(3k. The bottoms are usually covered with 
 salmon brush, some crab apple, maple, ash, and 
 
36 
 
 myrtle; the bills are generally open, with small 
 prairies in places. Back, a short distance from the 
 coast, there is an abundance of game, such as elk, 
 deer, bear, etc., and an abundance of fish on the 
 coast and in the creeks. This section, at present, 
 is only settled immediataly along the coast by per- 
 sons keeping stock and dairying to some extent. 
 
 In speaking of Columbia County, Oregon, a cor- 
 respondent of the Portland Bulletin, says: 
 
 "First — the late immigrant, if a farmer, can 
 have excellent land to produce, for from $1. 25 to 
 $2. 50 per acre. Second — he will have grass range 
 in almost unlimited quantities. Horses, cattle, 
 sheep, and hogs, require no food in summer, and 
 very little in winter. The settler is always in strik- 
 ing distance of the best navigation in the State — ■ 
 by the Columbia River, either to Portland, Astoria, 
 Kalama; or from Kalama by railroad to the Sound. 
 Third and last — when the natural resources of this 
 country are fully developed, it is agreed on all 
 hands, that it will be by far the richest county in 
 the State. For example, we have salt water con- 
 taining a very large proportion of salt. We have 
 iron ore in almost unlimited quantities, already 
 prospected, and its richness and quality tested; 
 both rich and of excellent quality. We have good 
 coal near this iron, both within two and a half 
 miles of the Columbia River, with a gently de- 
 scending grade all the way. We have also a fine 
 quality of red paint within one mile of the river; 
 
37 
 
 it is now in market. We also have the finest fir 
 and cedar timber; besides all other common tim- 
 bers in the State, affording the best facilities for 
 shipbuilding right on the banks of this ocean-like 
 river." 
 
 The western part of Washington Territory offers 
 good inducements to settlers. There is no part o^ 
 this section that the settler would be any great dis- 
 tance from a market. In the vicinity and back of 
 Shoalwater Bay, and between them, are consider- 
 able bodies of unoccupied land, and outside of 
 railroad limits, suitable for settlement. On about 
 all the streams running into the Sound, and taking 
 their rise in the Cascade Mountains, are more or 
 less good lands subject to settlement; a portion of 
 them railroad lands. More notably we would speak 
 of the Skadget River; that about eight miles from 
 its mouth, is obstructed by a jam of huge trees; 
 there is now a prospect of this jam being removed 
 shortly; and when opened, this river will be navig- 
 able for about sixty miles, opening up a large 
 section of good countr}'. For a more minute de- 
 scription we would refer the reader to our work 
 describing Washington Territory, its lands, etc. 
 
 A correspondent of the Bellingham Bay 3Iail, 
 writes: "Guemas Island is situated at the south end 
 of Bellingham Bay, fourteen miles from Whatcom. 
 Its location being central, and on the line of travel 
 for all steamers, ships, etc., from the straits, bound 
 to and returning from Bellingham Bay, render it a 
 
38 
 
 desirable place for a residence aud home. It con- 
 tains nearly seven thousand acres of land, all of 
 which is surveyed and ready for settlement by 
 homestead "and pre-emption. It being outside the 
 railroad limits, each settler is entitled to 160 acres 
 at $1.25 per acre; the nature and quality of the soil 
 is productive, being composed of black loam with 
 clay subsoil; a considerable portion being covered 
 with elder and willow, it is easily cleared; at present 
 there are eighteen settlers located here, including 
 six families. " 
 
 EASTERN WASHTNGION. 
 
 Mr. D. P. Thompson, who has been surveying 
 north of Lewiston, says: "It contains more land 
 adapted to agriculture than is embraced in the en- 
 tire Wallamet Valley. I saw whole sections that 
 would average one and a half tons of bunch grass to 
 the acre ; the length of the valley is over one hundred 
 and twenty-five miles." This valley now contains 
 about one thousand inhabitants. The Northern 
 Pacific Railroad route passes through this section. 
 A correspondent of an Idaho paper says of this 
 section : "For the whole distance after leaving the 
 brow of the mountain, immediately north of Lewis- 
 ton to Pine Creek, a distance of over fifty miles, and 
 for many miles on either side of the line dividing 
 Idaho and Washington Territory, the country is one 
 continuous tract of the best land to be found in any 
 c ountry. Innumerable valleys of from ten to twenty 
 
39 
 
 miles in length, divided only by slightly undulating 
 ground, while the few hills and fewer mountains to 
 be seen, too rugged for cultivation, are covered with 
 the most luxuriant grass. " 
 
 HOW TO MAKE A FARM. 
 
 Our directions here will apply to the timbered 
 and brushy sections which we have recommended, 
 being the usual mode adopted in those sections. 
 The immigrant usually selects a favorable spot to 
 commence where there is but little large timber; 
 after which, he clears off a space whereon to erect 
 his cabin; usually near some stream where there is 
 some bottom or bench land, and where there is 
 no great amount of large timber. The small 
 growth is first cut, felling it all one way as much 
 as possible, after which the larger growth is felled 
 on top of it, or the larger growth may be girded 
 and left standing; the best time to do this is 
 through June and July, when the sap is at its high- 
 est; after it has lain one or two months, fire is set 
 to it in different places. Some cut the vine maple 
 off about six feet from the ground, take a yoke of 
 cattle and chain, hitching on to the top of these 
 stubs and "snake" them out; the soil being loose 
 and the main roots near the top of the ground, it 
 is not so difiicult, having an axe close at hand to 
 cut any root that may hold fast. We saw at one 
 place on the Chehalis Kiver two patches of excel-, 
 lent wheat, the ground for which had never been 
 
40 
 
 ploughed. The proprietor stated that after " snak- 
 ing" out the grubs and sowing the wheat, the 
 ground being mellow, he took a yoke of cattle and 
 dragged a large brush over it to smooth it down 
 and cover the wheat. One of the patches (a few 
 acres) referred to was volunteer, or the second year 
 without sowing, and was then headed out nicely 
 and promised a good crop. The larger forest trees 
 are felled in this wise : Take a long shanked auger, 
 bore two holes, one above the other, at an angle 
 so they will meet some distance inside; after which 
 some pitch fagots are lit and introduced into the up- 
 per hole, the flame causing a suction of air from 
 the lower hole, acting something like a blow pipe. 
 That portion of the tree inside of the sap being 
 more or less of a pitchy nature, burns with great 
 rapidity, and in a short time appears and roars like 
 a huge furnace, and can often be heard at a con- 
 siderable distance; the outside, or sap, being 
 watery, without any pitch, and not burning while 
 green, leaves the tree a shell; after the inside of 
 the tree is pretty well burned through, the sap is 
 chipped through on the side it is desired to fall, 
 when it comes down with a terrible crash that can 
 often be heard for miles around. The usual price 
 for slashing is from eight to twelve dollars per acre, 
 cutting all down (except the large growth) ready 
 for burning. Where one is situated near tide water 
 and shipping, much of this surplus timber may be 
 turned to a profitable account in the way of ships* 
 
41 
 
 knees; the maple, ash and myrtle lumber, brings 
 a high price in the San Francisco and other mar- 
 kets. After burning the brush, there is some pick- 
 ing up and grubbing to be done before the ground 
 is ready for the plough, and unless one goes to a 
 great expense, there will still be some large stumps 
 in the ground. But then, ten acres of these lands 
 will produce more than one hundred acres of land 
 in many parts of this coast that we could name, 
 that are now estimated at a high value. One may 
 add a few acres every year and not be out very 
 much, and in a few years have a considerable sized 
 farm; but these timbered lands are not adapted for 
 going into farming on a large scale. At the start, 
 small farming in connection with stock raising on 
 a limited scale, which may be enlarged as these 
 lands become opened up and set in tame grass. 
 
 The most available mode of opening up these 
 woody sections is by fire; fire set in the most avail- 
 able and desirable places in the dry season can do 
 no great harm, as the fall rains are pretty sure to 
 stop it; this is very effectual where it is desired to 
 destroy the brush, dead timber, etc. The fire set 
 out in a dry time (say about the last of August) will 
 usually clear off the ground sufficiently for the pur- 
 pose of sowing grass seed, which takes readily 
 on these burns, and prevents, to a great extent, 
 the growth of brier, elders, etc. We have seen 
 many places in this coast country, where good 
 meadow lands were set in this way, that had never 
 
42 
 
 been ploughed nor harrowed. The grass seed 
 should be sown soon after the burn, the first fall 
 rains making the new grass appear in a very few 
 days. We once put in about thirty acres of timothy 
 in this way with a very small amount of labor. 
 
 Orchard grass is very suitable for high timbered 
 lands; stands tramping, and being shaded better' 
 and also comes earlier than other grass; red-top is 
 thought to stand overflow better than other grasses, 
 and hence it is sown where it is liable to be covered 
 with water; but timothy is the most commonly 
 grown in this coast country. 
 
 HOG RAISING. 
 
 This coast country is well adapted for the raising 
 of hogs, and it is strange it is not entered into 
 more largely. We contend that a pound of pork 
 can be produced here with less labor than in Mis- 
 souri, Illinois, or Iowa. First — if the right breed 
 of hogs are obtained, they will keep in good growing 
 condition on clover and other grasses that keep 
 green here nearly all the year. Second — this is the 
 natural soil and climate for the pea, on which hogs 
 fatten finely, and make very good pork, too. We 
 give the process adopted by a farmer who is now 
 making plenty of money out of it. He usually 
 sows his first crop of peas in February, and con_ 
 tinues to sow in every month (unless prevented by 
 excessively bad weather) till July. The first crop 
 is ready about the last of May and continues on 
 
43 
 
 till the July crop coming in October. As soon as 
 the pods of the pea are pretty well filled, but be- 
 fore they are ripe, and while the vines are «till 
 green, a moveable fence is thrown around a portion 
 of the field, when he turns in his hogs, they eating 
 vines, peas, pod, and all. After they have cleaned 
 out the first patch, the fence is moved in a little, 
 taking in another patch, and another, and so on, 
 till the fall, and it would astonish any one to see 
 how they grow. The field is so arranged as to 
 let the hogs have free access to the water. Another 
 great advantage in this process is, that the ground 
 is all the while getting richer, and at the same time 
 takes a very small amount of labor in proportion to 
 the results. This business cannot very easily be 
 overdone, as there is a great demand in the mining 
 regions of the Pacific Coast for pork and bacon; 
 large quantities are now shipped here from the 
 Western States. 
 
 STOCK EANGE AND STOCK RAISING. 
 
 The best and most extensive stock range is now 
 found throughout Eastern Oregon, Eastern Wash- 
 ington and Idaho Territory. There are parts of 
 those districts that are now fully stocked, but the 
 larger part huve little or no stock on it. Through 
 the whole length of the eastern slope of the Cas- 
 cade Range of Mountains, there is found the best 
 of summer range; but through the winter months 
 it is mostly covered with snow; the grass being 
 
44 
 
 generally green through the summer months, with 
 an abundance of pure cold water, the climate favor- 
 able, this section affords grand openings for dairy- 
 ing. We think the most available plan would be 
 to have a place in the low country; to keep stock 
 through the winter months; and also, where feed 
 could be provided. The eastern slope of these 
 mountains is mostly open, scattering timber, with 
 prairies of considerable size, all covered with the 
 best of grass. By having a place in the low country 
 for winter range, and taking the stock to the 
 mountain range in summer, would give the range 
 in the low country a chance to grow up for winter 
 use. This plan, we think, would work admirably 
 in sheep raising, by which they might be kept in 
 almost unlimited numbers. In the low country 
 adjoining the Columbia and Snake Rivers, stock 
 has been kept for many years without any feed 
 being provided for them; but we do not consider it 
 right or safe to do so; there should be provender 
 provided to feed at least one or two months. In 
 some parts of Eastern Washington and near the 
 Idaho line, the bunch grass gi'ows of a sufficient 
 length to cut for hay; but in most parts it is too 
 short for that purpose; but there is an abundance 
 of table land where timothy or grain can be raised. 
 
 THE FUTURE DAIRY DISTRICT. 
 
 Along the coast of Oregon and Washington Ter- 
 ritory, including a strip from thirty to forty miles 
 
45 
 
 in width, will at no distant day be the chief dairy 
 district of this coast, and we might add, not only 
 of this coast, but of the United States. All the 
 tame grasses, such as timothy, clover, and orchard 
 grass, grow and yield exceedingly well in all this 
 section, where they have been tried. About two 
 thirds of this section is now covered with a heavy 
 forest; but adjoining all the various harbors and 
 the mouths of streams, are found a great amount of 
 tide land and flats that now grow a great amount 
 of native grass of a good quality for stock; and it 
 is no very difflcult matter to start tame grass in the 
 more open part of the highlands. This section — 
 the grass growing the larger part of the year, the 
 best of soil and climate for the raising of roots, 
 etc., there being an abundance of the best of tim- 
 ber near at hand for making shelter, taken all 
 togethe — rpresents the greatest inducements for 
 dairying in connection with stock raising. 
 
 CLIMATE. 
 
 That we have a superior climate on the Pacific 
 Coast we believe is conceded by all. The past 
 winter was for a short time unusually cold; in some 
 parts of Oregon (a considerable distance from the 
 coast) wheat froze out; an unusual occurrence; this 
 cold snap lasted about three weeks. In ordinary 
 years the grass grows till about the first of De- 
 cember, and starts again in February; but often 
 grows during the entire winter. Mr. Wilson, living 
 
46 
 
 at the mouth of Muscle Creek, on the coast, (south- 
 west part of Oregon,) says he plants potatoes every 
 month of the year, excepting November; has nice 
 fresh vegetables growing the whole winter; there 
 hardly ever being any frost. We w^ould here re- 
 mark that there are many places along the coast 
 where frost rarely comes, even as far as 47 deg. 
 north, but it becomes colder on going eastward and 
 on attaining a greater altitude. In the winter 
 season southerly winds j^revail, which are warm 
 and bring more or less rain ; w^hen the wind is from 
 the east or north, it is cold; the east w^ind being 
 our coldest wind, which seldom lasts long. Having 
 lived in all parts of this coast, our experience is, 
 that in the winter season we prefer Southern Cali- 
 fornia, and in the summer season Northern Oregon 
 and Washington Territory have our preference, 
 where the summers are never oi:)pressively warm, 
 and where pure cold water can always be obtained. 
 
 The following we have compiled from what we 
 deem reliable authorities: 
 
 An accurate record kept at Portland, Oregon, 
 embracing a period of eleven years, gives the fol- 
 lowing average range of temperature as compared 
 with that of New York City : 
 
 
 Latitude. 
 
 Spring, 
 
 Summer, 
 
 Fall, 
 
 Winter, 
 
 Average. 
 
 WeBtern Oregon, 
 
 46- 10' 
 
 5P 
 
 6P 
 
 54° 
 
 42° 
 
 52° 
 
 New York City, 
 
 40° 45' 
 
 48-^ 
 
 7'20 
 
 54^ 
 
 31° 
 
 51° 
 
 The comparative rain fall, in inches, during the 
 same period, was as follows: 
 
47 
 
 
 Spring, 
 
 Summer, 
 
 Fall, 
 
 Winter, 
 
 Year 
 
 Western Oregon, 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 17 
 
 2-2 
 
 59 
 
 New York City, 
 
 11 
 
 ]1 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 41 
 
 Thus Western Oregon and Washington Territory 
 have a more equable climate than New York City; 
 being milder in spring, and 11 degrees cooler in 
 summer, with about equal temi3erature in the fall, 
 and being eleven degrees warmer during the winter 
 months, although New York is more than five de- 
 grees of latitude further south. 
 
 The annexed table, also compiled from the ob- 
 servations taken at Portland, determines the char- 
 acter of the seasons throughout the Wallamet Valley 
 and Puget Sound Basin. In this table ' * Pleasant " 
 refers to days without rain or snow; "Rainy,'' to 
 days when it rained between sunrise and sunset; 
 "Sunshine and Showers," and "Snowed," explain 
 themselves. 
 
 WEATHER TABLE. 
 
 Average for Eleven Years — 1858 to 1868, inclusive. 
 
 Pleasant, 
 
 ■without rain 
 
 or snow. 
 
 liainy bet. 
 sunrise and 
 sunset. 
 
 Sunshine 
 
 and 
 showers. 
 
 Eemarks. 
 
 January. 
 February. 
 March. . . . 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 August . 
 
 Septemb'r 
 
 October.. 
 
 November 
 
 December 
 Av. 11 yrs 
 
 18 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 ]3 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 1 20 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 j 22 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 27 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 27 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 ' 22 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 4" 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 237 
 
 63 
 
 57 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Snow 2 ye'rs 
 out of 11. 
 
 The num- 
 ber of rainy 
 days from 
 
 2 to 1 1 p mh 
 
 3 to 12 " 
 3 to 12 " 
 3 to 7 *' 
 Oto 8 " 
 Oto 6 '« 
 Oto 3 " 
 Oto 3 " 
 Oto 8 " 
 Oto 10 " 
 
 1 to 11 " 
 
 5 to 17 " 
 —One year. 
 
48 
 
 It will be noticed that two hundred and thirty- 
 seven days, out of the three hundred and sixty-five, 
 were " pleasant." 
 
 The following gives the mean temperatures (for 
 the different points named) for the months of Janu- 
 ary and July: 
 
 January, July. 
 
 Los Angeles, 52 deg. 
 
 Sacramento, 45 " 
 
 San Francisco, 49 " 
 Salem, Oregon, 33 " 
 
 Mean annual amount of rainfall and melted snow : 
 
 Fort Yuma, 3.46 inches. | Dalles, Oregon, 21.74 inches. 
 
 San Diego, 9.16 " Vancouver. W. T., 38.74 " 
 
 Sacramento, 19.56 " | Fort Boise, Idaho, 13.23 " 
 
 San Francisco, 21.52 " I Fort Churchill, Nev,, 5.67 " 
 
 Salem, Oregon, 37.90 " | 
 
 Population of the Pacific States and Territories, 
 according to the United States census of 1870 : 
 
 75 deg. 
 
 73 
 
 (C 
 
 57 
 
 ( ( 
 
 65 
 
 (C 
 
 CaliforniR, 24th, 
 
 560,247 California, 1870, had 
 
 49,310 Chinese 
 
 Oregon, 36th, 
 
 90,923 Oregon, 
 
 3,330 " 
 
 Nevada, 37th, 
 
 4-2,491 1 Nevada, 
 
 3,152 " 
 
 Washington Territory, 5th, 
 
 23,055 Washington T., " 
 
 234 " 
 
 Idaho Territory, 7th, 
 
 14,099; Idaho lerritory, " 
 
 4,274 " 
 
 California, Oregon, and Washington Territory, 
 have added very materially to their population 
 since. 
 
 RULING PRICES OF LABOR ON THE PACIFIC SLOPE. 
 
 Thirty dollars a month is now the customary 
 wages for farm laborers, except in harvest, when 
 
49 
 
 $1.50 to $2.00 per day is paid. House carpenters 
 in the country get $2. 50 per day, with board. Goiod 
 choppers and teamsters at the logging camps, get 
 from forty to sixty dollars per month, with board- 
 In the mining regions, miners get from $3 .00 to 
 $4 00 per day, without board. On Puget Sound, ship 
 carpenters get $4. 00 per day, or from sixty to sev- 
 enty dollars per month, with board. Caulkers get 
 $5.00 per day. The above are coin rates. The 
 best time to emigrate to the Pacific Coast is in the 
 spring or early in the summer. Do not come late 
 in the fall with the expectation of getting work 
 through the winter, although those well acquainted 
 here may obtain work through the winter months. 
 "We have in many instances in the past few years 
 in our travels and explorations, been greatly tempted 
 to stop our further research to engage in some of 
 the many good openings we have met with; and we 
 feel safe in saying, that in no other part of the 
 United States are there to be found such grand 
 opportunities for the industrious and enterprising 
 as are now to be found on this coast. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 California 5 
 
 Oregon 10 
 
 Nevada 13 
 
 Washington Territory, 14 
 
 Idaho Territory 15 
 
 Nehalem Eiver 16 
 
 Tillamook Bay 20 
 
 Yaquinna Bay 23 
 
 Coos Bay : 25 
 
 Coquille Kiver 28 
 
 Port Orford 33 
 
 Eesources of Columbia County, Oregon 36 
 
 How to make a Farm 39 
 
 Hog Eaising 42 
 
 Stock Kange and Stock Raising 43 
 
 The future Dairy District 44 
 
 Meteorological Tables 46 
 
 Statistical 48 
 
 Advice and Price of Labor 48 
 
mOX OF liFORMATIOH, 
 
 — AND — 
 
 SETTLERS' GUIDE 
 
 — FOR THE 
 
 PACIFIC SLOPE, 
 
 Including the States of California, Oregon and 
 Nevada, and Territories of Washington and 
 Idaho, with a description of and 
 the peculiarities of each. 
 
 Describing minutely all the mere important bodies of the Public Lands on the Pacific 
 Slope, Facilities fcr Settlement, Markets, Health, etc. 
 
 BY J. M. HARRTSOK 
 
 "MULTUM IN PARVO' 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO: 
 
 C. A. MURDOCK & CO., BOOK AXD JOB PRINTERS, 
 

 ^SEE 
 
 

 
 
 
 
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