Book_ L_ 
 
 GpigM? 
 
 COFiRIGHT DEPOSIT. 
 
CHRISTIANITY IN THE KITCHEN. 
 
 PHYSIOLOGICAL COOK BOOK, 
 
 BY 
 
 MRS. HORACE MANN 
 
 " There 's death in the pot." — 2 Kings, iv. 40. 
 
 In that day, every pot in Jerusalem, and in Judah, should be holiness 
 unto the Lord of hosts." — Zechariah, xiv. 21. 
 
 BOSTON: 
 TICK NOR AND FIELDS. 
 
 MDCCC LVIII. 
 
X 
 
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by 
 
 Maky Mann. 
 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. 
 
 Cambridge: 
 thurston axd torry, printers. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Adulterations 
 Albumen 
 Almond pudding 
 Alcohol . 
 Alexis St. Martin 
 Apple dumplings 
 
 " Indian puddin 
 
 " cream . 
 
 " minced pies 
 
 " pies 
 
 " pie, dried . 
 
 " sauce 
 
 «* jelly . 
 Arrowroot cream 
 " pudding 
 
 Asparagus . 
 
 B. 
 
 Batter pudding . . 67, 73 
 Beaumont's digestion table 27 
 
 Page 
 
 14,32 
 
 . 34 
 
 63 
 . 28 
 
 26 
 . 72 
 
 73 
 . 100 
 
 77 
 . 78 
 
 79 
 
 . 93 
 
 . 108 
 
 . 114 
 
 62 
 
 . 160 
 
 . 119 
 
 Beef 
 
 tea 
 
 boiled, corn 
 
 soup 
 
 steak 
 
 pie 
 
 olives 
 
 stuffed and briskets 
 
 bouilli . 
 
 pickled 
 
 128 
 38 
 128 
 128 
 129 
 132 
 133 
 133 
 134 
 135 
 
 Page 
 157 
 128 
 125 
 123 
 72 
 
 Beef, essence 
 
 Beans 
 " baked 
 
 Beets 
 
 Birds nest pudding 
 
 Blanc-mange, isin- 
 glass 
 
 Blanc-mange 
 moss . 
 
 Blanc-mange, Cooper's } ^ 
 isinglass 
 
 Blanc-mange 
 
 102, 116 
 carageen ) 
 
 102 
 
 corn starch 
 'calf's feet 
 " •« Russian 
 isinglass . 
 Blanc-mange, farina 
 " " rice . 
 Bran mixings, 
 Bread . . 15,17,49 
 " pudding . 61 
 
 " sauce 
 Broccoli . 
 Brioche rolls 
 Biscotine 
 Browning 
 
 Beverages, orgeat . 
 *•' raspberry 
 " of herb . 
 " figsand apples 
 " fig "lemonade 
 Buckwheat cakes 
 Butter 
 
 [in] 
 
 104 
 105 
 
 105 
 
 105 
 
 114 
 
 48 
 
 ,50 
 
 ,67 
 
 92 
 
 122 
 
 184 
 
 157 
 
 176 
 
 187 
 
 188 
 
 188 
 
 188 
 
 188 
 
 56 
 
 21 
 
IV 
 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 
 
 Page 
 
 
 Page 
 
 
 0. 
 
 
 Cream cakes 
 
 59,89 
 
 Cake 
 
 3 
 
 . 84 
 
 " syrup 
 
 . 45 
 
 t« 
 
 lemon 
 
 89 
 
 " pie 
 
 79 
 
 <( 
 
 sponge . 
 
 . 84 
 
 " pink 
 
 . 115 
 
 « 
 
 Providence sponge 
 
 " white lemon 
 
 115 
 
 a 
 
 New York sponge 
 
 . 85 
 
 " imperial 
 
 . 100 
 
 <( 
 
 Boston sponge 
 
 85 
 
 " Italian 
 
 105 
 
 it 
 
 Ohio sponge . 
 
 . b5 
 
 " lemon 
 
 . 89 
 
 tt 
 
 ground rice 
 
 86 
 
 " tea 
 
 100 
 
 " 
 
 cup 
 
 . 86 
 
 " clouted . 
 
 . 183 
 
 «< 
 
 frosting 
 
 86 
 
 Cranberries 
 
 108 
 
 a 
 
 kiss . 
 
 . 86 
 
 Cranberry pudding 
 
 . 66 
 
 tt 
 
 snow 
 
 87 
 
 " tarts . 
 
 78 
 
 a 
 
 batter 
 
 . 90 
 
 jelly 
 
 . 109 
 
 cc 
 
 Shakespeare 
 
 88 
 
 " sauce . 
 
 93 
 
 tt 
 
 Aunt Hannah 
 
 . 88 
 
 " and rice . 
 
 . 114 
 
 <« 
 
 almond 
 
 88 
 
 Currie sauce 
 
 93 
 
 Calf 
 
 s feet soup 
 
 . 139 
 
 Currant shrub 
 
 . 151 
 
 (( 
 
 head . 
 
 174 
 
 Custard, soft 
 
 97 
 
 <c 
 
 feet tea . 
 
 . 160 
 
 " French 
 
 . 97 
 
 (« 
 
 liver . 
 
 139 
 
 " almond . 
 
 98 
 
 Carrots 
 
 . 120 
 
 " pudding . 
 
 . 69 
 
 <« 
 
 pudding . 
 
 64 
 
 pie 
 
 83 
 
 (C 
 
 puree 
 
 . 173 
 
 Cutlets a la victime 
 
 . 176 
 
 Cauliflower . 
 
 122 
 
 
 
 Celery sauce . 
 
 . 92 
 
 D. 
 
 
 Charlotte roussa . 
 
 101 
 
 
 <« 
 
 a la pomme 
 
 . 82 
 
 Diet for the Sick . 155-161 
 
 Chei 
 
 ry pies 
 
 77 
 
 Prepared flour 
 
 . 156 
 
 Chic 
 
 ien pie 
 
 . 79 
 
 Biscotine . 
 
 . 157 
 
 tt 
 
 fricasseed 1 
 
 43, 177 
 
 Mucilage 
 
 . 157 
 
 " 
 
 baked in rice 
 
 142 
 
 Essence of beef 
 
 157 
 
 Chocolate custard . 
 
 . 97 
 
 Rice water 
 
 158 
 
 Cocoa . . .35 
 
 , 44, 45 
 
 Toast water . 
 
 . 158 
 
 Cocoa-nut pudding . 
 
 . 62 
 
 Rennet whey 
 
 . 158 
 
 u 
 
 " cakes . 
 
 87 
 
 Wine whey . 
 
 . 159 
 
 a 
 
 " drops 
 
 . 88 
 
 Oatmeal gruel 
 
 . 159 
 
 Cooking of meats 
 
 36 
 
 Ground rice . 
 
 . 159 
 
 Cold fruit pudding . 
 
 . 66 
 
 Indian meal gru 
 
 el 100 
 
 Corn 
 
 , green 
 
 . 122 
 
 Pearl sago 
 
 . 100 
 
 (( 
 
 meal bread 
 
 . 53 
 
 Tapioca 
 
 . 100 
 
 <( 
 
 cakes 
 
 54 
 
 Arrow-root . 
 
 . 100 
 
 tt 
 
 griddle cakes 
 
 . 55 
 
 Cream tea 
 
 . 100 
 
 a 
 
 pudding * . 
 
 70 
 
 Calf s feet tea. 
 
 . 160 
 
 u 
 
 pie 
 
 . 79 
 
 Fever draught 
 
 . 161 
 
 Cream" 
 
 22 
 
 " anoti 
 
 ler 161 
 
 <« 
 
 biscuit . 
 
 . 57 
 
 Parched corn te. 
 
 i 161 
 

 INDEX. 
 
 V 
 
 
 Page 
 
 
 Page 
 
 Diet, &c. 
 
 
 Herb tea . 
 
 161 
 
 Herb teas 
 
 161 
 
 Honey vinegar 
 
 . 151 
 
 For mothers 
 
 161 
 
 
 
 E. 
 
 
 I. 
 
 Ice cream 
 
 . 95 
 
 Edging for dishes . 90, 92 
 
 CC CC 
 
 95 
 
 Egg plant 
 
 123 
 
 " " currant 
 
 . 96 
 
 Eggs, dropped 
 
 126 
 
 " " custard 
 
 96 
 
 " poached 
 
 185 
 
 " imperial 
 
 . 100 
 
 " snow . 
 
 178 
 
 '* Italian 
 
 105 
 
 
 
 Indian griddle cakes 
 
 63, 73 
 
 
 
 " pudding, boiled 
 
 . 64 
 
 F. 
 
 
 " " baked 
 
 64 
 
 Fever draught 
 
 160 
 
 " and flour pudding 
 
 . 65' 
 
 " " another 
 
 161 
 
 •' and rye bread 
 
 53 
 
 Fish, seasons for 
 
 146 
 
 Irish flummery 
 
 . 116 
 
 " cooked . 144, 
 
 , 146 
 
 " potato cakes 
 
 60 
 
 " sauce 
 
 92 
 
 
 
 Flavorings . 
 
 10J 
 
 
 
 Flannel cakes . 
 
 60 
 
 J. 
 
 
 Floating island 
 
 " " another . 
 Flour, prepared . 
 
 101 
 101 
 
 166 
 
 Jam, strawberry 
 " grape 
 " raspberry 
 .*' pine apple . 
 
 . 112 
 
 112 
 
 . 112 
 
 Flour and Indian pudding 
 
 65 
 
 112 
 
 Flummery, Irish 
 
 116 
 
 Jelly, calf's foot 
 
 . 102 
 
 Fowls . . 140. 
 
 , 143 
 
 " Cooper's isinglass 
 
 104 
 
 " fricasseed . 142. 
 Fruit pudding, cold 
 
 ,177 
 66 
 
 " quince 
 " apple . 
 
 . 107 
 108 
 
 
 
 <« CC 
 
 . 108 
 
 G. 
 
 
 " currant 
 
 112 
 
 German waffles 
 
 58 
 
 " cranberry 
 
 M cranberry and rice 
 
 . 109 
 
 Gingerbread, soft sugar 
 
 CC CC CC 
 
 87 
 87 
 
 114 
 
 " Aunt Hannah I 
 
 
 
 Glaze .... 
 
 171 
 
 K. 
 
 
 Gluten . . . 33, 51 
 Goose . . . .143 
 
 Kidneys, sheep's 
 Kiss cakes . 
 
 . 186 
 
 86 
 
 " green 
 
 143 
 
 " froth 
 
 . 99 
 
 " old ... 
 
 143 
 
 Kolcannon 
 
 . 126 
 
 Greens 
 
 122 
 
 
 
 Ground rice pudding 
 
 71 
 
 
 
 Gruel, oatmeal 
 
 159 
 
 L. 
 
 
 " Indian meal . 
 
 160 
 
 Lait de poule, sweet 
 
 . 187 
 
 --." 
 
 
 Lamb .... 
 
 131 
 
 H. 
 
 
 " and rice 
 
 . 131 
 
 Herbs, powdered 
 
 160 
 
 Lemon pudding . 
 
 72 
 
VI 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 Page 
 
 
 
 Page 
 
 Lemon pie 
 
 . 81 
 
 Orange custard 
 
 . 115 
 
 • : cake . 
 
 . 86, 89 
 
 Orgeat . 
 
 . 101 
 
 1 ' custard 
 
 . 115 
 
 
 
 
 " syrup 
 
 . 152 
 
 
 
 
 " sugar of 
 
 . 182 
 
 
 p. 
 
 
 Lobster sauce 
 
 92 
 
 Pastry . 
 
 19,75 
 
 " butter (Frenc 
 
 h) . 174 
 
 Partr 
 
 Ldges . 
 
 143 
 
 
 
 Parsnips 
 
 . 120 
 
 M. 
 
 
 Parched corn tea 
 
 . 161 
 
 
 Peacb 
 
 pie 
 
 . 79 
 
 Macaroni 
 
 . 124 
 
 << 
 
 preserves . 
 
 . 106 
 
 " pudding 
 
 62 
 
 Pease 
 
 . 
 
 . 118 
 
 Macaroons- . 
 
 89, 183 
 
 " 
 
 pudding 
 
 177 
 
 Maitre d'hotel butter 
 
 . 124 
 
 Pearl 
 
 sago 
 
 . 160 
 
 Marmalade, quince . 
 
 . 107 
 
 Pickles 
 
 147 
 
 Marlborough pudding 
 
 64 
 
 t< 
 
 cucumbers 
 
 . 157 
 
 Meats, salted 
 
 36, 126 
 
 <( 
 
 butternuts . 
 
 148 
 
 Mead, Sarsaparilla 
 
 . 151 
 
 c« 
 
 walnuts 
 
 . 148 
 
 Meringues a la cuillerce . 184 
 
 << 
 
 martinoes . 
 
 148 
 
 Milk, solidified milk 
 
 17 
 
 << 
 
 peaches . 
 
 . 148 
 
 Mint sauce 
 
 . 9 
 
 cc 
 
 nasturtions 
 
 148 
 
 Mirror pudding . 
 
 69 
 
 CC 
 
 mangoes 
 
 . 148 
 
 Mucilage 
 
 . 157 
 
 cc 
 
 cherries 
 
 148 
 
 Muffins 
 
 55, 185 
 
 ti 
 
 eggs 
 
 .. 148 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 . 123 
 
 << 
 
 tomatoes 
 
 148 
 
 Mutton 
 
 . 130 
 
 (< 
 
 sweet pickles 
 
 . 148 
 
 " broth . 
 
 . 130 
 
 Pies, 
 
 apple minced 
 
 77 
 
 " stuffed loin 
 
 . 130 
 
 cc 
 
 cherry . 
 
 . 77 
 
 " " chops 
 
 . 131 
 
 « 
 
 rhubarb 
 
 77 
 
 " a la victime 
 
 . 176 
 
 cc 
 
 pandowdy 
 
 . 77 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 peach . 
 
 79 
 
 N. 
 
 
 " 
 
 pumpkin 
 
 . 70 
 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 143 
 
 Napoleon pudding . 
 
 . 70 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 120 
 
 
 
 tc 
 
 pie crust 
 
 . 120 
 
 
 
 CC 
 
 cakes, Irish 
 
 60 
 
 0. 
 
 
 Poultry, seasons for 
 
 . 143 
 
 Oatmeal gruel 
 
 . 159 
 
 Preserves, plums . 
 
 109 
 
 Ohio pudding 
 
 73 
 
 < 
 
 peaches . 
 
 . 106 
 
 Onions 
 
 . 121 
 
 c 
 
 quinces 
 
 106 
 
 Oleaginous food . 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 cranberries 
 
 . 108 
 
 Oyster pie 
 
 . 80 
 
 I 
 
 pine apples 
 
 109 
 
 " corn . 
 
 . 123 
 
 I 
 
 tomatoes 
 
 . 110 
 
 " scolloped 
 
 . 81 
 
 * 
 
 pears . 
 
 110 
 
 " omelette 
 
 . 125 
 
 I 
 
 citron melon 
 
 . 112 
 
 Orange pie 
 
 . 82 
 
 I 
 
 strawberries 
 
 111 
 

 
 IND 
 
 Page 
 
 EX. 
 
 Vll 
 
 Page 
 
 Paddings, bread . 61 
 
 ,67 
 
 R. 
 
 
 tt 
 
 tapioca . 
 
 61 
 
 Rachel pudding 
 
 . 70 
 
 a 
 
 sago . 
 
 62 
 
 Raspberry vinegar 
 
 . 151 
 
 << 
 
 arrow-root 
 
 62 
 
 " jam 
 
 . 112 
 
 «< 
 
 macaroni 
 
 62 
 
 Ratafras (French) 
 
 . 183 
 
 tt 
 
 cocoa-nut 
 
 62 
 
 Rennet whey 
 
 . 168 
 
 Si 
 
 pine apple . 
 
 63 
 
 Rhubarb pies 
 
 77 
 
 tt 
 
 almond . 
 
 63 
 
 Rice pudding . 
 
 . 64 
 
 it 
 
 squash 
 
 63 
 
 " plum-pudding 
 
 68 
 
 tc 
 
 carrot 
 
 64 
 
 " waffles 
 
 . 56 
 
 « 
 
 sweet potato 
 
 64 
 
 " flour drops . 
 
 56 
 
 (( 
 
 Marlborough . 
 
 64 
 
 " griddle cakes . 
 
 . 58 
 
 tt 
 
 custard 
 
 64 
 
 " ground " 
 
 69 
 
 tt 
 
 boiled Indian 66 
 
 , 73 
 
 " baked 
 
 . 68 
 
 <( 
 
 plum . 
 
 67 
 
 " pie 
 
 82 
 
 << 
 
 batter 
 
 67 
 
 " water 
 
 . 168 
 
 <c 
 
 rice 
 
 68 
 
 Rolls, brioche 
 
 69, 184 
 
 (< 
 
 mirror 
 
 69 
 
 " breakfast 
 
 . 185 
 
 tt 
 
 Eugenie 
 
 69 
 
 Rusks 
 
 58, 186 
 
 M 
 
 flour and Indian J35 
 
 Rye and Indian bread 
 
 . 63 
 
 <4 
 
 cranberry . 
 
 69 
 
 ' ' pudding 
 
 73 
 
 (1 
 
 cold fruit 
 
 65 
 
 " cake 
 
 . 56 
 
 (I 
 
 corn . 
 
 70 
 
 
 
 «( 
 
 whortleberry . 
 
 65 
 
 S. 
 
 
 u 
 
 ground rice 
 
 71 
 
 
 
 f< 
 
 potato 
 
 71 
 
 Sago pudding . 
 
 . 62 
 
 << 
 
 apple . 
 
 72 
 
 " pearl 
 
 160 
 
 It 
 
 lemon 
 
 72 
 
 Salt risings 
 
 . 47 
 
 it 
 
 bird's nest . 
 
 72 
 
 Salads 
 
 . 124 
 
 it 
 
 apple, Indian . 
 
 73 
 
 Salted meat 
 
 39, 135 
 
 tt 
 
 rye 
 
 73 
 
 Savsaparilla mead 
 
 . 151 
 
 (( 
 
 batter 
 
 73 
 
 Sauce, cold pudding 
 
 . 74 
 
 tt 
 
 Ohio . 
 
 73 
 
 " lobster butter 
 
 92, 174 
 
 a 
 
 sauce, hot 
 
 74 
 
 " fruit 
 
 74 
 
 a 
 
 " cold . 
 
 74 
 
 «* maitre d 'hotel butter 174 
 
 Puff paste 
 
 179 
 
 " sugar 
 
 . 174 
 
 Puree 
 
 )f carrot 
 
 173 
 
 " fish 
 
 92, 173 
 
 <( 
 
 of cauliflower . 
 
 178 
 
 " German 
 u celery 
 " bread 
 
 74 
 
 . 92 
 
 92 
 
 
 Q 
 
 
 . " apple 
 
 . 93 
 
 Quince 
 
 pudding 
 
 70 
 
 a cranberry . 
 
 93 
 
 (< 
 
 preserves . 
 
 106 
 
 " mint 
 
 . 93 
 
 tt 
 
 marmalade . 
 
 107 
 
 ' • currie 
 
 93 
 
 tt 
 
 " . another 
 
 107 
 
 Scolloped oysters 
 
 . 81 
 
 " 
 
 jelly . 
 
 107 
 
 Seasonings for meat 
 
 . 140 
 
viii 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 
 Page 
 
 
 Page 
 
 Shells . 
 
 . 45 
 
 Tarts, cranberry 
 
 . 78 
 
 Shrimp pie . 
 
 82 
 
 Tea 
 
 18, 43, 44 
 
 Sheep's head . 
 
 . 175 
 
 " beef 
 
 . 38 
 
 Snow cake . 
 
 86 
 
 " cream . 
 
 160 
 
 Solidified milk 
 
 . 17 
 
 " calf's feet 
 
 . 160 
 
 Soup stocks 
 
 39, 170 
 
 " parched corn . 
 
 . 161 
 
 " Julienne 
 
 . 171 
 
 " herb 
 
 . 161 
 
 " autumn 
 
 . 172 
 
 Tomatoes 
 
 . 1V!4 
 
 " sheep's head 
 
 • . 175 
 
 Tomato omelette 
 
 . 126 
 
 " split pease . 
 
 . 136 
 
 '* preserved 
 
 100 
 
 ' * mock turtle 
 
 . 136 
 
 Trifle 
 
 . 98 
 
 " pigeon 
 
 . 137 
 
 " of fresh fruit 
 
 99 
 
 " gumbo . 
 
 . 138 
 
 
 
 " calf s head 
 
 . 138 
 
 U. 
 
 
 " calf's feet 
 
 . 139 
 
 
 " calf's ears . 
 
 . 176 
 
 Unbolted wheat bread . 53 
 
 Spinach . 
 
 . 121 
 
 
 
 Spices . . 
 
 10 
 
 V. 
 
 
 Sponge cake (French 
 
 i) . 182 
 
 
 
 Squash, summer . 
 
 . 121 
 
 Veal 
 
 . 132 
 
 " winter 
 
 . 121 
 
 Vegetables . 
 
 . 118 
 
 " pie 
 
 80 
 
 Venison . 
 
 . 132 
 
 " pudding 
 
 . 63 
 
 " steaks- . 
 
 . 132 
 
 Strawberry cream 
 
 96 
 
 Vinegar . 
 
 . 152 
 
 Succotash 
 
 . 123 
 
 " honey 
 
 . 151 
 
 Sugar of lemon . 
 
 . 182 
 
 " raspberry 
 
 . 151 
 
 " to clarify 
 
 . 106 
 
 
 
 u drops 
 
 90 
 
 W. 
 
 
 Sunderland pudding 
 
 . 68 
 
 
 Sweetbreads 
 
 34, 175 
 
 Waffles . 
 
 . 55 
 
 Sweet potato puddin 
 
 g . 64 
 
 '* of rice 
 
 56 
 
 Syrup, lemon 
 
 . 152 
 
 " German 
 
 . 58 
 
 
 
 Washing, receipt for 
 
 . 163 
 
 
 
 " of colored clothes 163 
 
 T. 
 
 
 Whey, rennet 
 
 . 158 
 
 Table of digestion 
 
 . 27 
 
 1 ' wine 
 
 . 159 
 
 " " grains, &c. 
 
 33 
 
 Whips 
 
 98, 99 
 
 " " dried fish 
 
 . 34 
 
 Whortleberry pudding . 66 
 
 *« " milk 
 
 34 
 
 
 
 " " milk and cc 
 
 coa . 35 
 
 Y. 
 
 
 Tapioca 
 
 . 160 
 
 
 " pudding 
 
 . 61 
 
 Yeast 
 
 46,47 
 
 Tarts, rhubarb 
 
 77 
 
 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The object of this little Manual is to show 
 how healthful, nutritious, and even luscious food 
 can be prepared, without the admixture of inju- 
 rious ingredients. 
 
 The pleasures of the appetite are legitimate 
 pleasures. God did not implant the- sense of 
 Taste in man to ruin the beautiful structure of 
 his body, or to impair the noble faculties of his 
 soul. But, like all the other appetites, the appe- 
 tite for food may be abused. If its proper 
 conditions be violated, the loss of power, pre- 
 mature decay, and untimely death, are inevita- 
 ble. The life of the offender is deprived of its 
 own enjoyment, and of its power of being useful 
 to others. 
 
 Observation and science have brought to light 
 many of the conditions of health and longevity, 
 and an observance of these conditions is one of 
 the first steps towards redeeming the race from 
 its present degradation. 
 
 There is no more prolific, — indeed, there is 
 no such prolific cause of bad morals as abuses 
 of diet, — not merely by excessive drinking of 
 l 
 
2 PREFACE. 
 
 injurious beverages, but by excessive eating, and 
 by eating unhealthful food. Compounds, like 
 wedding cake, suet plum-puddings, and rich 
 turtle soup, are masses of indigestible material, 
 which should never find their way to any Chris- 
 tian table. It looks ominous to see a bridal 
 party celebrating nuptials by taking poison. Al- 
 though some persons may seem to eat these 
 criminal preparations with present impunity, 
 yet a book of reckoning is kept for the offences 
 of the stomach, as well as for those of the heart, 
 and this is one of the deeds 'done in the body, 
 for which the doer will be called to account. 
 
 If asked why I pronounce these and similar 
 dishes unchristian, I answer, that health is one of 
 the indispensable conditions of the highest mo- 
 rality and beneficence. Temper, it has been said, 
 lies in the stomach, which is physically, if not 
 metaphysically, true. Every intelligent dyspep- 
 tic knows that he is a worse man when suffering 
 under a paroxysm of his malady, than in one of 
 his lucid intervals, if we may so call them. Even 
 the lucid intervals of the confirmed dyspeptic 
 are negatively good and useful rather than posi- 
 tively so. Why is not dyspepsia disgraceful, 
 like delirium tremens ? When it comes to be so 
 considered, as it assuredly will be when the gos- 
 pel of the body is fully understood, it will be 
 banished from good society. It is a good omen, 
 that practical physiologists, even now, begin to 
 
PREFACE. 6 
 
 feel ashamed of ill health, and feel bound to 
 apologize for it.* 
 
 Headaches, in nine cases out of ten, are de- 
 rived from the state of the stomach. They are 
 so frequent, that men have ceased to inquire into 
 their origin, but doggedly accept them, as they 
 do foul weather, without either the grace of re- 
 signation, or the wisdom of future avoidance. 
 Our observation justifies the assertion, that in 
 nine cases out of ten, — might we not say in 
 ninety-nine out of a hundred, — proper attention 
 to diet and exercise, relatively considered, will 
 prove an effectual antidote. A few exceptional 
 cases may await farther knowledge. Even the 
 M rush of blood " to the head, is often remotely, 
 if not immediately, occasioned by a rush of food 
 to the stomach, though apparently caused by 
 hard study, or special disturbance, by anxiety or 
 grief, of specific cerebral functions. Whatever 
 affects the digestion immediately, affects the 
 head mediately. 
 
 The profusions of nature tempt the appetite 
 of man. The productions of all the earth are at 
 his command. But, for the control of his appe- 
 tites, man is endowed with reason and con- 
 science. The brute is governed in regard both 
 to the quantity and kind of its food by an in- 
 stinct, from which it rarely deviates, unless when 
 
 * Several years since, Dr. Sylvester Graham published an apol- 
 ogy in the newspapers for having been sick. 
 
4 PREFACE. 
 
 domesticated, and consequently corrupted, (alas, 
 that it must be said,) by its intercourse with 
 man. Surely, reason and conscience ought to do 
 as much for us, as a blind instinct does for the 
 brute. I believe it would, if children were not 
 trained amiss. Their habits are placed on the 
 side of indulgence, and not of self-control. Rea- 
 son and conscience might be a match for the 
 appetite alone, but it is scarcely a match for 
 appetite and habit combined. What then must 
 be the fate of a child whose appetites are in- 
 flamed and exorbitant, but whose reason and 
 conscience are dormant, or have no higher 
 standard than the customs of a self-indulgent 
 society ! 
 
 There are three great practical laws to be ob- 
 served in the taking of food. One regards the 
 time, another the quality, and the third the 
 quantity. 
 
 An interval of at least five hours should 
 elapse between meals for adults, unless some 
 extraordinary exertion has exhausted the sys- 
 tem, or something has interrupted or prevented 
 the reception of a full meal at the stated hour. 
 The stated hours should be regular, and the in- 
 tervals between meals should be observed as 
 religious fasts. If this be done, whenever fam- 
 ilies meet around the social board, they may 
 consistently invite the spiritual presence of him 
 
PREFACE. 5 
 
 who said : " Do this in remembrance of me." Is 
 it not a reasonable explanation of the request 
 which Christ made to his disciples, to remember 
 him " as often " as they assembled at the social 
 board, that he wished to associate together the 
 life that subsists by eating bread, and the life 
 that feeds upon " every word that proceedeth out 
 of the mouth of God," — thus ensuring temper- 
 ance ? Is it not certain, that if that voice were 
 in the ear of every Christian as he sits down to 
 the social meal, if every " Grace before meat " 
 should recognize that we are to eat, not to grat- 
 ify ignoble appetites, but to build up purely and 
 devoutly these temples of the Holy Spirit, which 
 our bodies were designed to be, we should 
 be less likely to pervert God's beautiful pro- 
 vision of enjoyment in eating, which is but 
 another instance of that overflowing benevolence 
 which decks the earth with flowers, and adds 
 countless beauties to countless utilities? 
 
 " Grace before meat " would then, indeed, be 
 a meaning service, which might arrest the atten- 
 tion of the young and thoughtless. It is not 
 unworthy of Christ, to suppose him desirous of 
 thus sanctifying and consecrating what is so 
 daily and hourly perverted. The generations 
 might recover their lost vigor under such practi- 
 cal interpretation of his teachings. 
 
 As science discloses to us the truths applicable 
 to this subject, we are as truly bound to abide 
 
6 PREFACE. 
 
 by them, as we are by any other truths, from 
 any other source. When we see a duty, an 
 eternal law binds us to its observance, from 
 whatever source it comes. Let us, with our 
 advanced civilization, consecrate our cooking 
 utensils, as the prophet Zachariah predicted they 
 should be consecrated in the " day of the Lord," 
 and regard as sacred those laws of health which, 
 even in the days of Moses, formed the basis of 
 the national code. 
 
 Children who live upon milk, bread and rice, 
 (who ought so to live, at least,) require food 
 more frequently, for two reasons. One reason is, 
 that these articles are digested within two hours, 
 whereas animal food and most vegetables* re- 
 quire a longer period of time. Another is, that 
 the temperature of the body in children, being 
 higher, all their functions in more intense action, 
 and their respiration consequently more rapid, 
 hunger recurs much sooner, and is felt much 
 more keenly, than in adults.f Again, as long as 
 the body is growing, more food in proportion 
 is required, than after it has attained its full 
 growth. Liebig, who has investigated this sub- 
 ject, says : — 
 
 " The change and metamorphosis of organ- 
 ized tissues, going on in the vital process in the 
 young, yield in a given time much less carbon 
 
 ♦See Dr. Beaumont's Table of Digestion, page 27. 
 t See Liebig's Letters on Chemistry. 
 
PREFACE. 7 
 
 and hydrogen, in the form adapted for the respir- 
 atory process, than corresponds to the oxygen 
 taken up in the lungs. The substance of its 
 organized parts would undergo a more rapid 
 consumption, and would necessarily yield to the 
 action of the oxygen, were not the deficiency 
 of carbon and hydrogen supplied from another 
 source. The continued increase of mass, or 
 growth, and the free and unimpeded develop- 
 ment of the organs in the young, are dependent 
 on the presence of foreign substances, which, in 
 the nutritive process, have no other function 
 than to protect the newly formed organs from 
 the action of the oxygen. It is the elements of 
 these substances which unite with the oxygen ; 
 the organs themselves could not do so without 
 being consumed ; that is, growth, or increase of 
 mass in the body, — the consumption of oxygen 
 remaining the same, — would be utterly im- 
 possible. 
 
 " The preceding considerations leave no doubt 
 as to the purpose for which Nature has added 
 to the food of the young of carnivorous mam- 
 malia, substances devoid of nitrogen, which 
 their organism cannot employ for nutrition, 
 strictly so called ; that is, for the production of 
 blood; substances which may be entirely dis- 
 pensed with in their nourishment in the adult 
 state. 
 
 " Milk contains only one nitrogenized constit- 
 
8 PREFACE. 
 
 uent, known under the name of caseine ; besides 
 this, its chief ingredients are butter and sugar 
 of milk. The blood of the young animal, its 
 muscular fibre, cellular tissue, nervous matter, 
 and bones, must have derived their origin from 
 the nitrogenized constituent of milk, the caseine ; 
 for butter and sugar of milk contain no nitrogen. 
 Now the analysis of caseine has led to the 
 result, that this substance is identical in compo- 
 sition with the chief constituents of blood, fibrine, 
 and albumen. Nay, more, — a comparison of 
 its properties with those of vegetable caseine 
 has shown that these two substances are identi- 
 cal in all their properties, insomuch that certain 
 plants, such as 'peas, beans, and lentils, are 
 capable of producing the same substance which 
 is formed from the blood of the mother, and 
 employed in yielding the blood of the young 
 animal. 
 
 " The young animal, therefore, receives in the 
 form of caseine, (which is distinguished from 
 fibrine and albumen, the chief constituents of 
 muscle, by its great solubility, and by not coag- 
 ulating when heated, as albumen does,) the 
 chief constituent of the mother's blood. To 
 convert caseine into blood, no foreign substance 
 is required, and in the conversion of the mother's 
 blood into caseine, no elements of the constitu- 
 ents of the blood have been separated. When 
 chemically examined, caseine is found to con- 
 
PREFACE. 9 
 
 tain a much larger proportion of the earth of 
 bones than blood does, and that in a very soluble 
 form, capable of reaching every part of the 
 body. Thus, even in the earliest period of its 
 life, the development of the organs in which 
 vitality resides, is, in the carnivorous animal, 
 dependent on the supply of a substance, identi- 
 cal in organic composition with the chief con- 
 stituents of its blood. 
 
 " . . . There is added, therefore, by means 
 of these compounds, to the nitrogenized constit- 
 uents of food a certain amount of carbon ; or, 
 (as in the case of butter,) of carbon and hy- 
 drogen; that is, an excess of elements which 
 cannot possibly be employed in the production 
 of blood, because the nitrogenized substances 
 contained in the food already contain exactly 
 the amount of carbon which is required for the 
 production of fibrine and albumen. . . . 
 
 " The carbon and hydrogen of butter, and the 
 carbon of sugar of milk, no part of either of 
 which can yield blood, fibrine, or albumen, 
 are destined for the support of the respiratory 
 process, at an age when a greater resistance is 
 opposed to the metamorphosis of existing organ- 
 isms ; or, in other words, to the production of 
 compounds, which, in the adult state, are 
 produced in quantity amply sufficient for res- 
 piration." * 
 
 * See Liebig's Familiar Letters on Chemistry, applied to Phys- 
 iology, Agriculture, and Commerce. 
 
10 PREFACE. 
 
 From the above it will be seen that the 
 quality of children's food should differ from 
 that of adults, so far as that it should consist of 
 more substances containing starch, gum, and 
 sugar. This brings us to our next topic, which 
 is quality. 
 
 QUALITY. 
 
 As to the quality of the food, there is no doubt 
 that the more simply it is cooked, the more 
 easily it is digested. 
 
 Chemical analysis should be the guide for 
 the cookery book. 
 
 No one would think of eating raw potash, a 
 substance that dissolves metals, but we do not 
 hesitate to eat saleratus, which is a modified 
 preparation of it, and has the same, though a 
 more gradual effect upon the organic tissues 
 and the blood. Soda, it is well understood, rots 
 cloth and takes the skin from the hands when 
 it is put into soap, or even when used to " break 
 hard water," as the washerwomen term it ; yet 
 we put it into bread and cakes. Our stomachs 
 were not made to digest metals, and when we 
 powder them and eat them, we try to cheat 
 nature. 
 
 Spices were undoubtedly made for use in 
 those climates where they grow, but the natives 
 of those climates use them much more sparingly 
 than we do. We may reasonably suppose that 
 
PREFACE. 11 
 
 they are more adapted to the wants of hot cli- 
 mates than of cold ones, as nature has placed 
 them in the former, and yet we saturate our food 
 with them, mix them together, destroy the flavors 
 of each by so doing, and make a stimulus to 
 appetite by a conglomeration, which is a most 
 unnatural one, and gradually injures the very 
 power of digestion. We thus conceal, also, 
 that fine aroma of vegetables and meats which 
 distinguishes one from the other, and deprive 
 ourselves of the pleasure God designed we 
 should feel in partaking them. There is a del- 
 icate fruit of the tropics resembling a musk- 
 melon, which grows, however, not upon a vine, 
 but upon a tree, the taste of which is so finely 
 delicate, that a foreigner cannot even perceive it 
 at first, but if he does not cover it with pepper 
 and salt, as we have seen many foreigners do, to 
 " give it a taste," he will, after partaking of it a 
 few days or weeks, (according to the simplicity 
 or sophistication of his appetite,) appreciate its 
 flavor, which is that of the most delicate aro- 
 matic nut. In our climate we lose the flavor of 
 many vegetables in the same way, by covering 
 them with pepper, and also by putting them 
 into water below the boiling point when we 
 cook them. Every one who is so happy as to 
 live in the country, and can gather vegetables 
 daily from his own garden, knows the difference 
 between them when gathered thus and cooked 
 
12 PREFACE. 
 
 properly, and those which have been picked, and 
 kept for market even one night. 
 
 When substances are used, like rice, corn- 
 starch and farina, which have very little taste, 
 (rice because it has been so long exposed to the 
 air after it is gathered, and corn-starch and fari- 
 na, because, from the mode of their preparation, 
 they lose a great part of the nutritious ingredi- 
 ents of the corn,) a delicate flavoring of spice 
 may be used without injury to health. 
 
 Science may at last bring us to the conclusion, 
 — and there are already some indications that it 
 will do so, — that each climate and region pro- 
 duces those articles of food which it is most 
 healthful to eat in their respective localities. 
 This must be an open question till we know 
 more scientifically the relations of nature with 
 man, but it has already been remarked by a 
 philosophical observer of nature,* that reme- 
 dies for local diseases are often found in the 
 productions of such localities, and one would 
 seem to be the correlative of the other. The 
 genius of man has already formed an alliance 
 with the powers of nature so far as to naturalize 
 many of the productions of foreign climates, 
 by due attention to soils and other circumstances 
 of growth, and when this can be done, such 
 productions may fall under the head of native 
 
 * See Bernardin St. Pierre's " Harmonie des Plantes." 
 
PREFACE. 13 
 
 growths, and must be regarded as more health- 
 ful than those articles which are necessarily 
 gathered before they are ripe, and are, therefore, 
 not eaten in a normal condition, because they 
 never go through the whole process of ripening 
 in the sun, in their native soil. The orange 
 affords a favorable sample of a fruit that retains 
 some of its fine qualities when imported, but 
 who that has imbibed its juice under its own 
 tree, when it is cool with the morning dew, and 
 sweetened by the ripening rays of its native sun, 
 can call it the same fruit ? It must be plucked 
 when partially green, in order to be transport- 
 ed, and the amount of its juice as we eat it 
 in this country is, perhaps, one tenth of its due 
 portion, and even this has never gone through 
 the requisite chemical action. A native of the 
 tropics does not swallow the pulp any more 
 than we do the rind, but many think they cannot 
 afford to buy oranges at a great price for one 
 table-spoonful of juice. We can even chew 
 the rind, but as a proof of the difference between 
 the fruit as we get it, and the ripe fruit in its 
 native clime, it may be mentioned that the acrid 
 juice of the rind is such when it is perfectly 
 ripe, that it so violently and painfully puckers 
 the lips, that it must be carefully removed before 
 the orange can be eaten in tropical fashion, 
 which is by suction. 
 
 The pine-apple is even dangerous when im- 
 
14 PREFACE. 
 
 ported, receiving it as we do less than half 
 ripened. The plantain, fig, and banana, — de- 
 licious fruits in their localities, — are nearly taste- 
 less when imported half ripe ; and even the sweet 
 potato does not do itself full justice. Doubtless 
 many of these things maybe acclimated with us 
 by suitable arrangements, and will be among the 
 future triumphs of scientific agriculture. 
 
 One more thing remains to be said concerning 
 the quality of food. The first object of a house- 
 keeper should be, to procure unadulterated arti- 
 cles. This is very difficult, as we are credibly 
 informed that there is no article used for food, 
 that is not adulterated, not even common salt. 
 But science comes to our aid, also, on this point. 
 
 Mr. Youmans, a young chemist in New York, 
 of excellent talent and genius, is now preparing 
 a work which will contain pictorial representa- 
 tions, to show the crystalline or other forms of 
 the particles of all substances used as food, and 
 a little practice with his diagrams and a micro- 
 scope will enable any one to detect the adulter- 
 ations of flour, sugar, farina, arrow-root, corn- 
 starch, salt, &c. The demand will create the 
 supply, doubtless, as in all other things ; and we 
 shall have grocers' microscopes, perhaps even 
 kitchen microscopes, at a reasonable rate, as 
 soon as society sees the necessity of them. 
 
 Who can wonder that there is no health in the 
 world, when our very wheat-flour, sugar, and 
 
PREFACE. 15 
 
 salt, are adulterated with plaster of Paris, alum, 
 and sulphate of copper; and wheat-bread is 
 raised with saleratus and soda? Bakers, (I will 
 say dishonest bakers, for I presume there are 
 exceptions,) purchase a damaged, and therefore, 
 a low-priced article, called baker's flour, and 
 make bread of it, which appears light and is pal- 
 atable, by the addition of one or another of the 
 above mentioned ingredients, or by others not so 
 injurious, but still unwholesome, such as mag- 
 nesia and carbonate of ammonia.* 
 
 This fact makes it very important that bread 
 should be home-made. In this country, it is the 
 general custom to make bread in families, but as 
 our domestics are not scientific, it is absolutely 
 necessary that it should not be left to them. The 
 temptation is so strong to use any means that 
 offer to make the bread acceptable, that cooks 
 are induced to make that point sure, by putting 
 in the convenient saleratus or soda, which, like 
 charity in that particular, cover a multitude of 
 sins. If the dough has been put together over 
 night, it may have gone on to the stage of ace- 
 tous fermentation, and a little saleratus, (more 
 than is necessary to sweeten it is often put in,) 
 
 * Bottled fruits and vegetables are adulterated with various 
 salts of copper ; cayenne pepper is colored with red lead and Ve- 
 netian red, (both highly poisonous,) and with alum and caustic 
 lime ; pickles, with salts of copper ; vinegar, with sulphuric acid ; 
 and confectionary, with plaster of Paris, and painted with deadly 
 pigments and essential oils containing prussic acid. 
 
16 PREFACE. 
 
 will conceal the fact, and make all appear right. 
 It will also save the trouble of kneading well. 
 Let the mistress then, if she does not actually 
 mix the bread, overlook the process, and it would 
 be a good custom if all the ladies in a family- 
 would take their turn at every batch of bread 
 that is made, and thus ensure its good qualities 
 by efficient kneading. Two hours would not be 
 too much of kneading. 
 
 Mr. Hecker, of Croton Mills, New York, well 
 known as the preparer of farina, has found 
 means so to prepare wheat-flour by the addition 
 of some innocent ingredient, as to make it pos- 
 sible to bake it as soon as it is mixed with water. 
 The ingredients he uses are not soda and cream 
 of tartar. Physicians and chemists, who know 
 what it is, pronounce it perfectly free from inju- 
 rious effects, and look upon the preparation as 
 betokening an era in the health of society. 
 
 The London Lancet, the leading medical peri- 
 odical of the day, Dr. James W. F. Johnston, 
 Professor of Chemistry in Durham, England, 
 and Dr. James R. Chilton, Professor of Chemis- 
 try in New York, have given their names with 
 elaborate certificates to Mr. Hecker, recommend- 
 ing his patent flour in the fullest terms. Beside 
 the convenience of making, and the healthful- 
 ness of the bread thus made, Dr. Chilton says, 
 it has the advantage of not losing any portion 
 of the ingredients of the flour, some of which 
 
PREFACE. 17 
 
 are lost when wheat-flour is raised with yeast. 
 The carbonic acid gas that gives porousness 
 and lightness to the bread, is evolved without 
 the process of fermentation in the dough. If 
 kept dry, this bread will also retain its proper- 
 ties for a great length of time, and is therefore 
 especially useful to seafaring people. 
 
 Another mode of making light bread, which, 
 being well kneaded, requires no time for rising, 
 is to mix soda with the flour in the same propor- 
 tion as when cream of tartar is used, but instead 
 of adding cream of tartar to evolve the carbonic 
 acid gas, by which the bread is to be made light, 
 pour dilute muriatic acid into the water with 
 which the bread is to be mixed, and the effect 
 will be produced, leaving only common salt as 
 the combination of the acid and the alkali. The 
 muriatic acid must be diluted by the chemist, 
 for if too strong, it will make the bread taste 
 sour, as an excess of cream of tartar does. 
 
 I will speak in this connection of a modern 
 preparation, which is especially useful in large 
 cities, where it is so difficult to procure good 
 milk. It is an article called solidified milk. It 
 can only be made of the purest and freshest 
 milk, because the chemical processes will not 
 take place with any other material. As prepared 
 by Dr. Blackford, it is offered either in the form 
 of solid cakes, or in granular form, and will keep 
 pure many years, when wrapped in zinc foil. It 
 2 
 
18 PREFACE. 
 
 is made by mixing with milk almost its own 
 weight of powdered white sugar, and evaporat- 
 ing the water of the milk at a low temperature. 
 Milk contains only twelve or thirteen per cent 
 of solid matter. The tablets now offered for 
 sale will return to the condition of pure fresh 
 milk, on being disolved in five pints of water, 
 cold or warm. The only difference between 
 this and milk fresh from the cow, is its sweetness; 
 but for all common purposes it is not too sweet. 
 It is already prepared for sweetening cocoa and 
 other beverages, for custards and puddings. Dr. 
 J. H. Griscom, of New York, who was commis- 
 sioned to examine this subject, investigated it 
 thoroughly, and wrote an able report upon it, in 
 which he expresses, very strongly, his opinion 
 that when the demand for it will enable the 
 fabricators to supply it at a cost of three cents a 
 quart, it will make an immense difference in the 
 health of cities, where so much sickness is caused 
 among the poor by the consumption of vitiated 
 milk. The present cost is jive cents a quart, 
 which holds it out of the reach of the poor. It 
 is a valuable article, however, in the wealthiest 
 family, because always at hand and always 
 good ; and can be conveniently taken to sea.* 
 
 In reference to the use of tea and coffee as 
 common beverages, Dr. Griscom says : — 
 
 * Cream will form upon this milk when left standing ag readily 
 as upon that newly milked, and from this cream Dr. G. has made 
 excellent butter. 
 
PREFACE. 19 
 
 " It is undoubtedly the effect of the proxi- 
 mate principle of these two substances to sup- 
 ply an important element of the bile, and so 
 far they may be of value, but the same good 
 result may be attainable by other means, and 
 their value in this respect I consider as overshad- 
 owed by their bad influence upon the nervous 
 system. Believing, as a general rule, (to which 
 there may be an occasional exception, to be 
 determined on its own merits,) that these are not 
 innocent articles of diet, I think they should find 
 no place in a Physiological Cookery-Book." 
 
 In reference to pastry, I will again quote from 
 Dr. Griscom, who has given so much attention to 
 these subjects that his opinion is worthy of all 
 consideration, and goes to confirm domestic 
 observation. The conscientious, Christian lovers 
 of pastry need not think their gastronomic 
 pleasures are at an end, when I have convinced 
 them that the mixture of oleaginous materials, 
 like butter and lard, with wheat, is absolutely 
 pernicious and unphysiological, for there is yet 
 a resource. First, let us listen to Dr. Griscom. 
 He says: — 
 
 " Pie-crust and other shortened articles of food 
 are almost wholly indigestible by many stom- 
 achs, and remain a long time in the stomach, 
 producing eructations and other dyspeptic symp- 
 toms. The gluten of flour and the oil of lard 
 with which pastry is often shortened, are in- 
 
20 PREFACE. 
 
 compatible substances, incapable of forming 
 a chemical compound, and require different 
 elements of gastric power to convert them into 
 chyme, while their ultimate mechanical incorpo- 
 ration renders both inaccessible to the dissolving 
 agency of the gastric juice, to which either 
 alone readily yields. Hence their long continu- 
 ance in an undigested form when mixed. The 
 gastric juice will dispose of oils if they are not 
 melted, and oils are sometimes positively ben- 
 eficial, but never in combination with grains." 
 
 Some chemists question this statement of 
 Dr. Griscom, and say that the gastric juice 
 exerts chemical agency upon the food, and 
 therefore no mechanical incorporation of ingre- 
 dients would make any difference, because 
 chemical action is independent of all mechan- 
 ical combinations. They think the injury occa- 
 sioned by the use of fat substances, arises only 
 from their excess. 
 
 It is one of the recent conclusions of chemists 
 that the pancreatic juice as well as the bile is 
 used in the dissolving of fats, but that until 
 they reach that part of the alimentary canal 
 with which the liver and the pancreas communi- 
 cate, they are in a state of fine subdivision, 
 comminuted but not dissolved. This fine com- 
 minution of the fat evidently cannot take place 
 if it is in hard combination with any other 
 substance. 
 
PREFACE. 21 
 
 Experience often determines practical truths, 
 before the scientific solution of such truths is 
 arrived at. There is no question of the injurious 
 nature of shortened bread and pastry. We 
 hope chemists will direct their attention to 
 the subject until they have arrived at the true 
 reason. 
 
 Dr. Griscom says in regard to butter : — 
 u I have the highest respect for butter, eaten 
 in its natural state. It is very complicated in 
 chemical composition; each globule, though on 
 an average of only -gVoir of an inch in diameter, 
 being formed of an outer film or shell of caseine, 
 with a mixture of three different kinds of oil, 
 each of which is again composed of an organized 
 substance, known in chemistry as the oxide of 
 glycyrile, combined with a separate acid. Each 
 globule in a recent state is distinctly visible in the 
 field of the microscope, and when in unbroken in- 
 tegrity is sweet and digestible ; but when old or 
 broken, its chemical character alters, new com- 
 pounds are formed, and the nutritive property 
 undergoes a change. Time alone will effect 
 this change, but there is another element which 
 will produce it rapidly, viz., heat ; and hence 
 the melting process must so alter the relations 
 of its chemical constituents, as to impair its 
 assimilative properties.* The substitution of 
 
 * Butyric acid, found in melted or rancid butter, corrodes the 
 organic tissues like sulphuric acid. 
 
22 PREFACE. 
 
 cream for butter in cooking, will of course obvi- 
 ate all objections to the latter in a melted form, 
 and not only this, but you will infuse into the 
 food with the cream, other nutritious ingredients, 
 such as a portion of the caseine of the milk, 
 (which is albumen in a soluble condition,) and 
 more or less of the sugar, which is also found 
 in milk. A more innocent article than cream, 
 or one more digestible and nutritive in cookery, 
 can hardly be mentioned." 
 
 With Hecker's patent flour then, — or flour 
 mixed with soda and muriatic acid, which make 
 a harmless combination, common salt, — and 
 cream for shortening, we can still have nice 
 pastry, on which the most conscientious physi- 
 ologist may ask the blessing of God. 
 
 I will add here what I shall repeat in specific 
 receipts, that pastry may be made very delicate 
 by substituting well boiled potato for a portion 
 of the flour. 
 
 There can be but one objection offered to the 
 substitution of cream for butter, and this is its 
 comparative inconvenience. It is more trouble 
 to a housekeeper to make arrangements for 
 gathering cream, than to buy it in the compact 
 form of butter, and have it always at hand. 
 But on the other hand, cream is far less expen- 
 sive, because a smaller quantity of cream, in its 
 own form, will better serve the purpose than when 
 it is made into butter. If milk is spread in very 
 
PREFACE. 23 
 
 wide pans, it will afford a great deal of cream, and 
 the skimmed milk, from which it is taken, may- 
 be reserved to mix with bread, in preference to 
 water, especially with Indian corn bread. 
 
 The subject of oleaginous food leads inevitably 
 to the consideration of pork as an article of diet. 
 The genius of man appears to have discovered, 
 at last, the true end for which that much malign- 
 ed and also much vaunted animal was created, 
 viz., that of enlightening the world (not feeding 
 it). As we profess to be guided by science in 
 this matter, however, we are forced to listen 
 again to Dr. Griscom, who says, that if pork 
 could be well fed and trained, it would be very 
 useful food in cases of tuberculous consump- 
 tion, so common in crowded cities, where people 
 cannot have the requisite quantity of oxygen, 
 without taking extraordinary measures to obtain 
 it. To be well fed and trained, pork must have 
 good corn and potatoes to eat, milk when possi- 
 ble, plenty of space for healthful exercise, living 
 waters to bathe in, and clean straw, high and 
 dry, to sleep upon. As meat is universally con- 
 ceded to be a product of the food digested by 
 the animal, we can imagine even pork to be 
 legitimate food when so prepared, and we would 
 commend it to the benevolent speculators to 
 found piggeries of this unquestionable character. 
 The most refined taste or stomach, perhaps, 
 would not revolt from partaking of a roasted 
 
24 PREFACE. 
 
 sucking pig, taken from such surroundings. It 
 has been asserted that even the grown animal 
 has a natural love of cleanliness, but being very- 
 near-sighted, and left to its own resources in a 
 false state of society, (false to pigship, which in a 
 natural state roams through the forest and feeds 
 upon mast,) it cannot afford to be particular 
 about its food, and having a natural propensity 
 to bathe, feels constrained to bathe in unclean 
 water, if it cannot find that which is limpid. 
 
 To speak seriously, let us for a moment con- 
 template the circumstances under which pigs 
 are raised in cities, amid the abominations of 
 distilleries, and too often even in the country, 
 where there is plenty of space and fresh air, if 
 people only knew for what they are designed ; 
 and can we wonder at the spreading disgust 
 among the refined to such pork as the markets 
 furnish us? In view of these facts, we cannot 
 but commend the tuberculous patient to the con- 
 sumption of cod-liver oil, as fish-life cannot be 
 easily corrupted even by man's neglect, and the 
 pure article is undoubtedly useful. Perhaps it is 
 hardly benevolent to advert here to the rumor 
 that a large proportion of the cod-liver oil sold 
 in this country, is manufactured at the "West 
 from hog's lard ! But our aim in this work is to 
 tell the truth to the public as far as we know it. 
 
 While on the subject of meats, I will add 
 that, undoubtedly, wild meat is the most health- 
 
PREFACE. 25 
 
 ful, because game finds its food by its own 
 instincts, and life in the woods and wilds must 
 be far more healthful than that which is stall-fed. 
 Much has been said by many physiological 
 writers against the use of animal food. To 
 their arguments we may reply, that fibrine and 
 albumen, which are the chief constituents of 
 muscle, are also the chief constituents of vegeta- 
 bles, and that it is the graminivorous animals 
 which feed upon vegetables that constitute our 
 animal food. The ingredients then are the 
 same, but flesh having once been digested, is 
 more easily digested again, and is more stimu- 
 lating. In cold climates we need the fats of 
 meat to supply carbon and hydrogen to the oxy- 
 gen, which, condensed by the cold, will devour our 
 very tissues if we do not give it other food. If 
 we relinquish animal food for any special reason, 
 and such may occur, we should substitute a 
 more nutritious diet of vegetables, milk, eggs, 
 and fruits, than it is ordinarily convenient to 
 procure. Each individual must learn his own 
 needs, and eat his proper proportions of animal 
 and vegetable food. One iron rule will not do 
 for all, and climate must be taken into account, 
 as to the proportion requisite. A more watery 
 food is good in tropical climates, where the 
 atmosphere is more rare, and respiration conse- 
 quently not so rapid, but if we live in cold cli- 
 mates, we must remember the need of respiratory 
 food, that is carbon and hydrogen. 
 
26 PREFACE. 
 
 Many years since, some very curious observa- 
 tions were made, by looking into the stomach of 
 a man, who had an orifice in his side, made by 
 a gun-shot wound. The subject was a healthy 
 young man, named Alexis St. Martin. After he 
 had recovered from the effects of the wound, 
 Dr. Beaumont, his physician, hired him for some 
 years, in order to make observations upon the 
 operation of the gastric juice, as it was very easy 
 to push aside the membrane that grew over the 
 orifice after the wound healed. 
 
 It was found that bulk, as well as nutritious 
 matter, was necessary to the process of digestion, 
 and this explains why highly concentrated food, 
 like finely bolted wheat, is not so healthful as 
 the grain in a coarser form, which contains some 
 ingredients that are not digestible, but pass out 
 of the system. It was also observed that St. 
 Martin could not digest well when he was irri- 
 tated, or too much fatigued and annoyed by 
 examinations. It was also ascertained that the 
 temperature of the stomach controlled the diges- 
 tion of the food. Cold water after a meal lower- 
 ed the temperature of his stomach thirty degrees, 
 and it did not recover its natural heat for an 
 hour. Cold drinks should therefore be avoided 
 after eating. Even ice-water is not injurious 
 when taken with a meal, but half an hour after 
 a meal it is very dangerous. It is always 
 preferable to take ice-creams before a meaL 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 27 
 
 They then operate as tonics upon the stomach, 
 and are healthful rather than harmful. The 
 habit of eating oysters in the evening, and 
 ice-creams afterwards, as is frequently done in 
 large parties, is very pernicious. The order 
 should be reversed. 
 
 I subjoin a table which Dr. Beaumont made 
 from his observations upon digestion in St. 
 Martin's stomach. It shows the time occupied 
 in the digestion of different articles, in that par- 
 ticular case. In less healthy stomachs, the pro- 
 cess would undoubtedly occupy a much longer 
 time, and certain articles are wholly indigestible 
 by certain stomachs, and produce violent pain. 
 
 DR. BEAUMONT'S DIGESTION TABLE. 
 
 Meats. 
 
 Soused pigs feet, boiled, 
 Soused tripe, boiled, 
 Venison steak, broiled, . 
 Fresh beef s liver, " . 
 Wild turkey, roasted, . 
 
 " " boiled, . 
 Domestic turkey, roasted, 
 Fresh lamb, broiled, 
 Roasted goose, .... 
 Fricasseed chicken, . . 
 Fresh beef, roasted, . . 
 Beef steak, broiled, . . 
 Mutton soup, .... 
 Fresh mutton, broiled, . 
 
 " " roasted, . 
 
 " * boiled, . 
 
 Pork steak, 
 
 Pork, recently salted, 
 raw, 
 
 m. 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 35 
 
 00 
 
 18 
 
 25 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 45 
 
 3 00 
 
 3 00 
 
 3 30 
 
 3 00 
 
 3 15 
 
 3 00 
 
 3 15 
 
 8 00 
 
 Pork, recently salted, 
 
 boiled, 3 15 
 
 Chicken soup, ... 3 00 
 
 Domestic fowls, boiled, . 4 
 
 " " roasted, 4 
 
 Fresh veal, broiled, . . 4 
 
 Beef and vegetable soup, 4 
 
 Old salted beef, ... 4 
 
 Boiled salt pork, . . 4 
 
 Fried salt pork, ... 4 
 
 Wild ducks, roasted, . 4 
 
 Fresh veal, fried, ... 4 
 
 Pork, fat and lean, roas'd, 5 
 
 Tendon, 6 
 
 Fresh beef suet, ... 5 
 Oysters, fresh, raw, . 2 
 " " stewed, . 3 
 
 Oyster soup, .... 3 
 Heart, animal, fried, . 4 
 Sucking pig, roasted, . 2 
 
 00 
 00 
 00 
 00 
 15 
 30 
 15 
 30 
 30 
 15 
 30 
 30 
 55 
 30 
 30 
 00 
 30 
 
28 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 Vegetables. 
 
 h. in. 
 Apples, sour, mellow, 
 
 raw, 2 00 
 
 Apples, sour, hard, raw, 2 50 
 Apples, sweet, mellow, 
 
 raw, 1 00 
 
 Rice, boiled, . . . . 1 00 
 Sago, boiled, .... 1 45 
 Raw cabbage, with vine- 
 gar, 2 00 
 
 Tapioca, boiled, ... 2 00 
 
 Irish potatoes, baked, . 2 30 
 
 " ' " boiled, . 3 30 
 
 Parsnips boiled, . . . 2 30 
 
 Raw cabbage, head, . 2 30 
 
 Boiled " with vinegar, 4 30 
 
 Beans, pod, boiled, . . 2 30 
 
 Apple-dumpling, boiled, 3 00 
 
 Carrot, orange, boiled, . 3 15 
 
 Turnip, flat, boiled, . 3 30 
 
 Beats, boiled, . . . . 3 45 
 
 h. m. 
 Green corn and beans, 
 
 boiled, .... 3 45 
 
 Fish. 
 
 Cured cod-fish, boiled, . 2 00 
 
 Fresh striped bass, boiled, 3 00 
 
 Fresh flounder, fried, . 3 30 
 
 Salmon, salted, boiled, . 4 00 
 
 Fresh eggs, boiled soft, 
 
 3 00 
 
 " " boiled hard, 
 
 3 30 
 
 " •* raw, . . 
 
 . 2 00 
 
 " fried, . . 
 
 3 30 
 
 Milk, raw, .... 
 
 2 15 
 
 Milk, boiled, .... 
 
 2 00 
 
 Tapioca, boiled, . . 
 
 2 00 
 
 Sponge cake, .... 
 
 2 30 
 
 Baked custard, . . 
 
 2 45 
 
 " corn cake, , . 
 
 3 00 
 
 " corn bread, . . 
 
 3 30 
 
 Strong old cheese, . . 
 
 8 30 
 
 ALCOHOL. 
 
 The object of this Manual will not be wholly 
 answered if it should fail to enforce all argu- 
 ments for temperance. Temperance in eating 
 is but one form of that virtue. Temperance in 
 drinking also conies under the head of physio- 
 logical diet. 
 
 Mr. Youmans has explained so clearly and 
 convincingly the evil effects of alcohol upon the 
 human system, that little or nothing can be 
 added to his statement. A few extracts from 
 his excellent " Class Book of Chemistry," which 
 should be used in every common school, and in 
 every family, and from which many of the most 
 valuable physiological hints given in this Manual 
 
PREFACE. 29 
 
 have been taken, will be sufficient for the present 
 purpose. 
 
 " The most striking effect of alcohol upon the 
 human system is upon the brain. It is as truly 
 a poison to the brain as corrosive sublimate and 
 arsenic are to the stomach and other tissues. 
 It also acts unfavorably upon the tissues. 
 
 " Its chemical composition is such as to forbid 
 its ever being transformed into the animal 
 tissues. 
 
 " It has been found that when animals have 
 been poisoned by alcohol, which has been intro- 
 duced into the stomach, the coats of that organ 
 become so thoroughly imbued with it through- 
 out their whole thickness, that no washing can 
 remove it. The tissues remote from the stomach 
 are impregnated with it in the same way, when 
 it is introduced into the current of the circula- 
 tion. Their substance shrinks, and their chem- 
 ical relations are altered. 
 
 " Its effects upon the blood are to prevent the 
 coagulation of fibrine, and it is, therefore, an 
 obstacle to nutrition, because that vital process 
 is impeded by which the solid substances of the 
 body are organized or elaborated from the blood. 
 Physicians and surgeons testify that the healing 
 process in cases of wounds, ulcers, &c, is very 
 uncertain in persons who drink largely of spirit- 
 uous liquors. 
 
 " When alcohol is introduced into the blood- 
 
30 PREFACE. 
 
 system in excess, the blood in the arteries 
 assumes a dark or venous appearance, and this 
 is because alcohol is more combustible than the 
 ordinary constituents of blood, and consequently 
 attracts its oxygen, and is burned to carbonic 
 acid and water. This arrests the natural process 
 of oxidation, upon which the vigor of the animal 
 powers depends. 
 
 " Alcoholic liquors possess in a remarkable 
 degree the power of diminishing the carbonic 
 acid exhaled in the breath, and its consequent 
 accumulation in the system is probably a partial 
 cause of that prostration, both of physical and 
 mental power, which attends the advanced 
 stages of intoxication. 
 
 " The effect of alcohol upon the nervous sys- 
 tem is also special. The selective power of al- 
 cohol, by which it fastens upon nervous matter, 
 is proved by the fact that it has been found 
 diluted in considerable quantity, in the substance 
 of the brain of habitual inebriates. The nerves 
 are stimulated into unhealthy activity, and the 
 heightened action is communicated to the heart, 
 quickening the circulation, and the reaction is a 
 prostration of all the powers. The human body, 
 in its natural state, is incombustible, that is, it 
 requires the addition of a considerable amount 
 of fuel to reduce it to ashes. But some in- 
 stances have occurred, in which spirit drinkers 
 have taken fire and been consumed. This fire 
 
PREFACE. 31 
 
 has been kindled by inflammable vapors in the 
 breath." 
 
 When brandy and wine are used in cooking, 
 if the articles in which they are used are heated 
 to the boiling point, the alcoholic principle has 
 escaped entirely, as alcohol boils at a tempera- 
 ture of 172°, whereas ivater will not boil under 
 a temperature of 212°. Those preserves which 
 are put into cold brandy, as peaches often are, 
 are subject to the evil effects of alcohol, but 
 brandy or wine used as a flavor for pies, pud- 
 dings, or cake, are not objectionable for the above 
 reason. 
 
 It will be easily understood from the preced- 
 ing remarks, that this cookery book will differ 
 from all other cookery books, in leaving out from 
 the composition of breads, cakes, pies and pud- 
 dings, all deleterious ingredients, such as sale- 
 ratus, soda, melted butter, lard, suet and other 
 fatty substances, in combination with wheat and 
 other farinaceous articles of food. Experience 
 and observation have shown conclusively, that 
 the very best quality of bread can be made 
 without any such addition, if proper attention is 
 given to the subject by the intelligent house- 
 keeper, and that cream will serve all the pur- 
 poses of butter, lard and suet, for shortening 
 and enriching pies, puddings, and in the prepa- 
 ration of vegetables, generally made so unhealth- 
 ful by the addition of melted butter. An exami- 
 
32 PREFACE. 
 
 nation of the very best cookery books shows that 
 scarcely a receipt is given without these articles, 
 if by any possibility they can be introduced. 
 
 A chapter in the work will be devoted to the 
 consideration of diet for the sick. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 GLUTEN. 
 
 The nutritive quality of grain depends very 
 much on the proportion of gluten it contains. 
 
 TABLE OF GRAINS AND OTHER COMMON ARTICLES OF FOOD. 
 
 Wheat, (whole grain,) 
 Whole bran, . 
 Fine wheaten flour 
 Wheaten bread, 
 Rye bread, 
 Indian corn meal, 
 Scotch oatmeal, . 
 Rice, 
 
 Buckwheat flour, 
 Pulse, averages, 
 Turnip, (dried meal,) 
 Potato, 
 Carrot, 
 Onion, . 
 Cabbage, (dried,) 
 Cauliflower, " 
 Mushroom, 
 Lean beef, 
 Dried flesh, 
 Dried oat cake, 
 
 Gluten. 
 
 Fat. 
 
 Sugar and 
 Starch, &c. 
 
 Water. 
 
 12 per ct. 
 
 2 
 
 72 
 
 
 14 to 18 
 
 6 
 
 63 
 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 73 
 
 
 54 
 
 
 46* 
 
 
 5ft 
 
 
 46£ 
 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 66 
 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 62 
 
 
 7 to 8 
 
 
 92| 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 92ft 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 
 25 to 33 
 
 
 
 
 30 to 35 
 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 
 
 
 56 
 
 
 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 84 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 21 
 
 7 
 
 70 
 
 
 Wild meat and fowls contain much less fat 
 than butchers' meat, except when fowls are 
 fattened, as the capon, the ortolan, and the 
 & [3-3] 
 
34 
 
 GLUTEN. 
 
 diseased livers of geese, which make the French 
 pate fois gras. 
 
 Veal is less fat than beef; pork, fatter. 
 
 Gluten. 
 
 Fat 
 
 Sugar and 
 Starch, &c 
 
 Water. 
 
 97 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 78 
 
 22 
 
 
 
 44 
 
 56 
 
 
 
 92 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 14 
 
 10i 
 
 
 72 
 
 Dried skate, • 
 " salmon, 
 
 " eel, ... 
 
 " haddock and herring, 
 
 The egg, therefore, is richer in fat than beef, 
 but the white contains no fat. The 14 per cent, 
 of egg is albumen, which is isomerically identi- 
 cal with fibrine and gluten, and can even be 
 resolved into them. Albumen and gluten are 
 very constipating kinds of food, and should be 
 eaten with butter or oil. "When fats are melted, 
 a new difficulty in digestion arises, but cold but- 
 ter or olive oil are healthful ; never melted butter 
 or melted lard. 
 
 Curd or Casein 
 
 answering to 
 
 Gluten. 
 
 Fat 
 
 Sugar of 
 Milk. 
 
 Water. 
 
 4i 
 
 3 
 
 4| 
 
 87 
 
 Cow's milk, 
 
 This milk partakes of the nature of both 
 vegetable and animal food. The casein is a 
 nutritive substance that answers to gluten, fibrine 
 and albumen, and the sugar answers to the 
 starch in wheaten bread. It is constipating 
 when eaten alone. Acid fruit eaten with it 
 rectifies its effects upon the digestive powers, 
 and even grains modify them. 
 
GLUTEN. 35 
 
 Curd or 
 
 Casein. 
 
 Fat 
 
 Sugar of 
 Milk. 
 
 Water. 
 
 4 
 
 18 
 
 2| 
 55 
 
 23 
 
 89 
 
 Human milk, . 
 Mexican cocoa bean, 
 
 Cocoa resembles milk more nearly than any 
 other variety of human food. 
 
 As the natural food of the young mammalian 
 is the milk of its mother, that milk may be 
 looked upon as a kind of model food, for the 
 species to which the animal belongs. Woman's 
 milk, therefore, is the type of human food, and 
 after its form and composition all other kinds of 
 food should be adjusted, especially in the cases 
 of persons whose condition approaches that of 
 the child. Hence it seems reasonable to infer, — 
 
 First, that our food ought to contain a due 
 admixture of vegetable and animal food sub- 
 stances, in which the proportions of the three 
 most important constituents, fat, starch or sugar, 
 and fibrine or gluten, are properly adjusted.* 
 
 Second, that the food, if not naturally liquid, 
 should be intimately mixed with a large quantity 
 of liquid before it is introduced into the stomach. 
 This lesson we have already learned from the 
 study of various natural forms of vegetable food. 
 The attainment of these two ends ought always 
 to guide the operations of those who wish to 
 prepare what will be wholesome for the majority 
 of men to eat.f 
 
 * Fat is in very small proportion in milk. 
 t See Dr. Johnston's Chemistry of Life. 
 
GLUTEN. 
 
 Tabular expression 
 dried beef, eggs, milk, 
 dried oatmeal.* 
 
 Fibrine, casein, albu- 
 men or gluten . 
 Fat . 
 
 Starch or sugar 
 Ash or mineral matter 
 
 of the composition of 
 dried wheaten flour and 
 
 Beef. 
 
 Eggs. 
 
 Milk. 
 
 Fine Wheaten 
 Flour. 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 89 
 
 7 
 4 
 
 55 
 40 
 
 6 
 
 35 
 
 24 
 
 37 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 2i 
 
 83i 
 2 
 
 21 
 7 
 
 70 
 2 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 100 ' 
 
 * See Dr. Johnston, &c. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 COOKING OF MEATS. 
 
 Dr. Johnston says :* 
 
 " The first effect of the application of a quick 
 heat to a piece of meat, is to cause the fibres to 
 contract, to squeeze out a little of the juice, and, 
 to a certain extent, to close up the pores so as to 
 prevent the escape of the remainder. 
 
 " The second is to coagulate the albumen con- 
 tained in the juice, and thus effectually and com- 
 pletely to plug up the pores, and to retain within 
 the meat the whole of the internal juice. There- 
 after, the cooking goes on through the agency of 
 the natural moisture of the flesh. Converted 
 into vapor by the heat, a kind of steaming takes 
 place within the piece of meat, so that whether 
 in the oven, or on the spit, or in the midst of 
 boiling water, it is in reality, when skilfully done, 
 cooked by its own steam. 
 
 " A well cooked piece of meat should be full 
 of its own juice, or natural gravy. In roasting, 
 therefore, it should be exposed to a quick fire, 
 that the external surface may be made to con- 
 
 * See Chemistry of Common Life. 
 [37] 
 
38 . COOKING OF MEATS. 
 
 tract at once, and the albumen to coagulate, 
 before the juice has had time to escape from 
 within. And so in boiling. When a piece of 
 beef or mutton is plunged into boiling water, 
 the outer part contracts, the albumen, which is 
 near the surface, coagulates, and the internal 
 juice is prevented either from escaping into the 
 water by which it is surrounded, or from being 
 diluted and weakened by the admission of water 
 among it. When cut up, afterward, the meat 
 yields much gravy, and is rich in flavor. Hence a 
 beef-steak or a mutton-chop is to be done quickly, 
 and over a quick fire, that the natural juices may 
 be retained. 
 
 "On the other hand, if the meat be exposed to 
 a slow fire, its pores remain open, the juice con- 
 tinues to flow from within as it is dried from the 
 surface, and the flesh pines and becomes dry, 
 hard and unsavory. Or if it be put into cold 
 or tepid water, which is afterwards gradually 
 brought to a boil, much of the albumen is ex- 
 tracted before it coagulates, the natural juices 
 for the most part flow out, and the meat is 
 served in a nearly tasteless state. Hence, to 
 prepare good boiled meat, it should be put at 
 once into water already brought to a boil. 
 
 " But to make beef-tea, mutton-broth, or other 
 meat soups, the flesh should be put into cold 
 water, and this afterwards very slowly warmed, 
 and finally boiled. The advantage derived from 
 
COOKING OF MEATS. 
 
 39 
 
 simmering, a term not unfrequent in cookery 
 books, depends very much upon the effects of 
 slow boiling as above explained. 
 
 " The beef-tea or soup should be made by 
 chopping the meat small, pouring upon it its 
 weight, or any other desired quantity of cold 
 water, and letting it stand a long time in this 
 water, and then bringing it slowly to a boil. 
 The residual fleshy fibre is tasteless, and will 
 not alone support animal life for any length of 
 time. Bat, eaten with the tea or beef thus made, 
 or with what the tea or soup contains, or made 
 into savory meat by the addition of ordinary 
 gravy, it will sustain and strengthen the body. 
 
 " If this beef-tea is made by being brought to 
 a quick boil, it will not contain so much of the 
 nutritious matter of the beef, but it exercises a 
 special tonic and exhilarating influence upon the 
 system, independent of any directly nutritive 
 property it may possess. The meat tea will be 
 more nutritious in the ordinary sense, the more 
 of the jelly-forming substance of the meat it 
 holds in solution. These two teas or soups, (the 
 quickly boiled and the slowly boiled,) are suited 
 to the digestive powers of different constitu- 
 tions. 
 
 " The preservation of meat by salting depends 
 upon the separation of water, upon the exclu- 
 sion of air, upon the saturation with salt of the 
 juice which remains in the meat, and upon the 
 
40 COOKING OF MEATS. 
 
 formation of a weak compound of the flesh with 
 common salt, which does not readily undergo 
 decay. But this preservation is attended by a 
 diminution in its nutritive qualities, for the juice 
 which flows out contains albumen, kreatin, phos- 
 phoric acid, and potash. These substances, 
 (which the salt causes to flow out by contract- 
 ing the fibres,) are precisely the same as are 
 more fully extracted by water, in the method of 
 making savory beef-tea, and in proportion as 
 they are extracted, the nutritive properties of the 
 meat are diminished. Hence one reason why 
 long feeding on salt meat affects the health, and 
 why vegetables and other substances, which are 
 capable of supplying what the meat had lost, 
 are found to be the best means of restoring it.* 
 
 " As a whole, flesh meat is eminently nutri- 
 tious, because it contains all the materials which 
 are necessary to build up our own flesh ; but 
 remove from it a portion of these materials, and 
 the remainder becomes more or less useless, — 
 as bricks and stone become useless to the builder 
 if we refuse him the requisite quantity of mor- 
 tar. 
 
 " There is much analogy between the bread 
 and the beef, the vegetable and the animal forms 
 of food on which we live. Between the gluten 
 of the one and the fibrine of the other, we have 
 
 * Sailors affected with scurvy, from eating salt meat, are some- 
 times cured by eating a raw turnip. — Ed. 
 
COOKING OF MEATS. 41 
 
 also found a very close similarity, and in the 
 animal economy they are both fitted and intend- 
 ed to serve the same main purpose. 
 
 ■ There is also an absolute identity of sub- 
 stance, — as regards their solid part at least, — 
 among the fatty compounds which are met with 
 in the eatable productions of the animal and 
 vegetable kingdoms 
 
 " Again when the parts of plants are burned 
 in the open air, they disappear for the most part, 
 and leave only a small proportion of each be- 
 hind. This ash consists of a mixture of various 
 substances, spoken of as their mineral, earthy, 
 saline, or inorganic constituents. 
 
 " The same takes place when the parts of 
 animals are burned ; and the mixture of mineral 
 matters obtained, consists, in either case, of the 
 same substances, only differing more or less in 
 their relative proportions. The same things occur 
 in the ash of bread as in the ash of beef. In 
 whatever degree, therefore, the nutritive proper- 
 ties of our food depend upon the kind of mineral 
 matter it contains, it is almost a matter of in- 
 difference whether we live upon an animal or a 
 vegetable diet." 
 
 From the above tables and extracts, every one 
 may see what are the proportions of nutritious 
 matter contained in food as it is prepared by 
 nature. It is obvious that we should take nature 
 
42 COOKING OF MEATS. 
 
 for our model, and if we take milk as our special 
 model, it will be seen that it contains half as much 
 fat as gluten, and quite as much starch, sugar, &c, 
 (the non-nitrogenized constituents of food, fitted 
 for the respiratory part of digestion,) as gluten. 
 Where these proportions vary, we must adjust 
 our food to meet the difficulty. Sweet butter 
 and sweet olive oil are the most digestible of all 
 fats. Experience teaches that the action of fire 
 upon these fats so alters their nature, that they 
 disturb the digestive powers. When we wish to 
 cook fat into our food, let us then take the safe 
 resource of using cream. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 BEVERAGES. 
 
 In regard to beverages, Dr. Johnston says : 
 " As to the physiology of these beverages, or their 
 action on the system, it appears," that .... 
 
 [These remarks follow a long and interesting analysis of all 
 the various kinds of tea and coffee used in the world.] 
 
 " Generally, they all exert a remarkable influence on 
 the activity of the brain, — exalting, so to speak, the 
 nervous life ; yet they do so in a way different from 
 opium or ardent spirits, since they act as antidotes to 
 the narcotic influence of the one, and relieve the in- 
 toxication produced by the other. They all soothe the 
 vascular or corporeal system, allay hunger, retard the 
 change of matter, and diminish the amount of bodily 
 waste in a given time ; and if this waste must, in the 
 healthy body, be constantly restored in the form of 
 ordinary food, this diminution of the waste is equiva- 
 lent to a lessening of the amount of food which is 
 necessary to sustain the body ; — hence their value to 
 the poor.* They are indirectly nutritious. Specially, 
 
 * These remarks were designed for a country where the labor- 
 ing poor cannot get enough to eat, but no principle can be more 
 unsound. The more food an individual can well digest and as- 
 similate, the stronger he will be both in muscle and brain. All 
 stimulants, therefore, which diminish the demand for the largest 
 amount of food that can be well digested and assimilated, dimin- 
 ish the productive power of a human being whether considered 
 as an animal or a man. — Ed. 
 
 [43] 
 
44 BEVERAGES. 
 
 they diminish the quantity of the carbonic acid given 
 off from the lungs in a given time, and that also of 
 urea, phosphoric acid, and common salt in the urine. 
 These are the chemical forms in which the lessening of 
 the change of matter manifests itself. In the case of 
 coffee, it has been ascertained by experiment, that the 
 lessening of the waste is due more to the empyreu- 
 matic oil it contains, than to the cafeine. The same 
 is probably true also of tea. The increased action of 
 the heart, the trembling, the headache, and the pecul- 
 iar intoxication and delirium which extreme indulgence 
 in coffee sometimes produces, are mostly caused by the 
 cafeine. On the other hand, the increased action of 
 the kidneys, of the bowels, and of the perspiring ves- 
 sels, and generally the increased activity of the whole 
 system, are ascribed to the action of the oil." 
 
 The Mexican cocoa, the food most nearly re- 
 sembling milk, besides its directly nutritive prop- 
 erties, possesses also a volatile oil, similar in its 
 effects to the empyreumatic oil of tea or coffee. 
 Dr. Johnston says : 
 
 " The preparations of cocoa are skilful chemical 
 adjustments, made without chemical knowledge, as 
 the results of long and wide experience. The advan- 
 tage of cocoa over tea and coffee, is its superior nutri- 
 tive property, and over beef-tea and other similar 
 beverages, is its empyreumatic oil and the principle of 
 the bromine, which resembles the principle of theine 
 found in tea. It thus unites in itself the exhilarating 
 properties of tea, with the strengthening and ordinary 
 body-supporting qualities of milk. When milk and 
 cocoa are mixed, also, the predominating fat of the 
 one, and casein of the other, dovetail into and assuage 
 the influence of each."* 
 
 * Mr. Baker, of Dorchester, Mass., has distinguished himself, in 
 his day and generation, by his various preparations of cocoa. Ed. 
 
BEVERAGES. 45 
 
 The discrepancy between Dr. Griscom's and Dr. 
 Johnston's opinions of tea, will be observed, but 
 both are entitled to respectful consideration ; the 
 one from the attention he has devoted to the 
 subject of hygiene, the other for his chemical 
 investigations. 
 
 TEA. 
 
 One teaspoonful for each person. Pour boil* 
 ing water upon it. 
 
 COCOA. 
 
 Boil a small teacupful of ground cocoa-bean 
 an hour, in a quart of water. Let it cool, skim 
 off the fat and boil it again with a pint of good 
 milk. 
 
 bakers' cocoa paste 
 
 Is properly prepared with starch and sugar. 
 Three table-spoonfuls boiled in a pint of milk 
 and a pint of water for twenty minutes is the 
 rule. 
 
 SHELLS. 
 
 This is the outer skin of the cocoa-bean, 
 which does not contain the fat. Boil a large 
 teacupful two or three hours in a quart of water. 
 Keep it boiling. Boil milk or cream to put 
 into it. 
 
 CREAM SYRUP 
 
 Is excellent for shells. Two pounds and a 
 half of sugar to a quart of cream, boiled in a 
 saucepan, cooled in a jar, and then bottled tight, 
 will keep for many weeks. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, MUFFINS, 
 WAFFLES, &c. 
 
 YEAST AND BREAD. 
 
 The most important item of housekeeping is 
 bread-making. 
 
 To make good bread, we must first secure 
 good yeast. There are three kinds of yeast, from 
 either of which good bread can be made. 
 
 DRY YEAST. 
 
 One handful of hops, boiled half an hour in 
 two quarts of water ; ten good potatoes, boiled 
 half an hour and mashed fine, without removing 
 the skins ; strain the boiling water from the hops 
 upon the potatoes, add two tablespoonfuls of salt, 
 strain the mixture upon one pint of flour ; when 
 cooled to the lukewarm point, add one pint of 
 good brewer's yeast, and let it rise six hours ; 
 when it is finely " up," stir in sufficient sifted 
 Indian meal to make it a thick paste. Spread this 
 paste upon a cloth or a board, as thick as the 
 handle of a case-knife, and let it dry in the dry, 
 outward air, without being touched by the rays 
 
 [46] 
 
YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, ETC. 47 
 
 of the sun. It will dry even better if broken up. 
 This will take two or three days. When perfectly 
 hard, bag this paste, and if hung in a cool, dry 
 place, it will be good for use a year. It is excel- 
 lent for summer use, because it precludes the 
 danger of sour yeast, and excellent for winter 
 use for many reasons of convenience. Soak 
 half an hour in warm water for use. Sometimes 
 this yeast loses its goodness in August. 
 
 YEAST. 
 
 Yeast made for temporary use is prepared in 
 the same way, with the exception of the Indian 
 meal. Instead of mixing the meal with it after 
 it has risen, strain it through a cullender or sieve, 
 and put into a stone jug, stopped tight. It will 
 keep three weeks in winter, and, under favorable 
 circumstances, one week in summer, but in the 
 latter season, it is better to make it fresh every 
 time it is needed, retaining only so much of it 
 as will raise a fresh supply when wanted. 
 
 Sometimes a piece of dough, which has been 
 carefully kept several days, will raise a new por- 
 tion of yeast. 
 
 SALT RISINGS. 
 
 This is another species of yeast, which makes 
 very delicious bread. 
 
 Take a tea-cup full of fresh, new milk, (no 
 other will answer,) put into it a third of a tea- 
 
48 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, 
 
 spoonful of fine salt, the same quantity of finely 
 powdered sugar, pour upon it enough boiling 
 water, (a pint or more,) to scald it thoroughly. 
 When it has cooled off a little, stir in half a 
 pint of flour, or more, in proportion to the water, 
 set the tin dish that holds it into a kettle of warm 
 water ; if it shows no sign of rising in three 
 hours' time, (the water in the kettle being care- 
 fully kept at an even temperature,) sift in a little 
 more flour. As soon as it bubbles, leave it en- 
 tirely at rest, and in five hours from the first 
 scalding of the milk, it will rise beautifully, as 
 white as snow. It is fit for use at that very 
 moment. If the bread can be mixed with luke- 
 warm milk and water, instead of water alone, it 
 will be very rich. 
 
 BRAN MIXINGS. 
 
 Pour upon a quart of bran, warm water 
 enough to soak it well, and to mix a batch of 
 bread. When soaked, strain and heat the 
 viscous liquid, and mix the bread with it, in- 
 stead of using simple warm water. It adds 
 30 per cent, of nourishment to the bread, but 
 the bread will not be so white. 
 
 Another mode is to pour cold water upon 
 the bran, and then heat it. The extract contains 
 a principle found only in the outer coatings of 
 the bran which is usually lost by the first bolt- 
 ing of the wheat. It is a nutritious principle, 
 
MUFFINS, WAFFLES, ETC. 49 
 
 generally eaten only in the article called cracked 
 wheat, which is an excellent article of food for 
 dyspeptics. 
 
 BREAD MADE WITH DRY YEAST. 
 
 Boil half-a-dozen potatoes, mash them, and 
 strain the water while boiling-hot upon a pint 
 of flour. When it has cooled off somewhat, 
 add a large table-spoonful of the dry yeast, well 
 soaked for fifteen minutes in warm water, and 
 stir in a little more flour. Set it in a warm 
 place to rise, and when it comes up, mix up the 
 bread, putting half a pint of this yeast to five or 
 six quarts of flour, and a table-spoonful of salt, 
 or more if liked. Put salt and yeast in the 
 water. One trial will prove how much yeast 
 five quarts of flour will require. The quantity 
 will be in proportion to the strength of the yeast, 
 and when the requisite quantity is ascertained, 
 let flour and yeast always be measured. After 
 mixing the bread to the desired consistency, with 
 the help of warm water or warm bran mixings, 
 set it to rise in a trough or pan, in a warm place, 
 and when it has risen light and well, knead it in 
 separate loaves, and let it rise a second time in 
 pans, which have been well buttered and kept 
 warm. It will make very fine bread. The great 
 secret of bread-making is to put in enough of 
 that ingredient called shoulder or fist. There 
 can hardly be too much of this at the second 
 4 
 
50 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, 
 
 kneading. The dough will become perfectly 
 smooth, and will spring under the hand by its 
 own elasticity. If it were kneaded two hours 
 it would be all the better for it, and machines 
 have already been invented and used for this 
 purpose. Pounding with a large wooden pestle 
 or roller is very excellent, but a long continued 
 process of this sort requires more time and 
 strength than an ordinary cook can give. 
 
 It would be a good custom if all the ladies in 
 the family would take their turn at every batch 
 of bread that is made. The goodness of the 
 bread would reward them for the time and labor, 
 and it would also prove an excellent exercise in 
 gymnastics. 
 
 BREAD MADE WITH WET YEAST. 
 
 Three quarts of flour, half a cup of yeast, one 
 table-spoonful of salt, and warm water or bran 
 mixings enough to make a soft dough. After it 
 has risen once, knead it as above, in separate 
 loaves, with ten-shoulder power. 
 
 Remark. — It is more convenient to mix up 
 bread at night, and find it already risen in the 
 morning, but when this is done, there is great 
 danger of its becoming a little sour before it has 
 the second kneading. A good housekeeper, who 
 is resolved to have no excuse for adulterating 
 and poisoning her bread with saleratus or soda, 
 
MUFFINS, WAFFLES, ETC. 51 
 
 will commence her operations in the morning, 
 even if the bread cannot be baked until the 
 afternoon. It can then be watched, and the 
 right moment seized ; the temperature that sur- 
 rounds it can be carefully kept equable ; the eye 
 will learn to follow all the changes through 
 which it passes ; the cook, if the bread -making 
 is deputed to a cook, will have less temptation 
 to put in the stolen alkali. The bread will, 
 undoubtedly, be more Christian than if made 
 under other circumstances. 
 
 The best bread contains small and uniform 
 pores or vesicles. If bread contains large holes, 
 it is either because the dough was too watery, 
 or not sufficiently kneaded, the flour too finely 
 ground, or the heat of the oven insufficient. 
 
 Dark-colored flour makes the most nutritious 
 bread, because it contains most gluten.* Gluten 
 is harder to grind than the starch in grain, hence 
 the whitest flour, obtained by repeated siftings, 
 loses the most of its nutritive principle, gluten. 
 Starch remains unaltered by the gastric juice, 
 but gluten is digested. The small or tail corn 
 which the farmer separates before bringing his 
 grain to market, and usually grinds for his own 
 use, is richer in gluten than the plump, full-grown 
 grain, and is therefore more nutritious-! 
 
 * By dark-colored flour is meant that which has not been too 
 much sifted. Flour is sometimes dark because the wheat is not 
 good. 
 
 t See Johnston's Chemistry of Life. 
 
52 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, 
 
 " Put a stale loaf into a closely covered tin, 
 and expose it half an hour to heat, not exceeding 
 that of boiling water, and then remove the tin 
 and allow it to cool, the loaf will be as good as 
 new. This is because the amount of the water 
 is not diminished by time, but only altered in 
 its relation to the internal arrangement of the 
 molecules of the bread. The gluten of flour 
 when once thoroughly wet, is with difficulty 
 dried again, and forms a tenacious coating 
 round every little hollow cell in the bread, which 
 coating does not readily allow the water to dry 
 up and pass off in vapor. The dry crust is also 
 nearly impervious to water. There are 66 parts 
 of water in 100, in the bread we eat." * 
 
 ADULTERATIONS OF FLOUR. 
 
 The presence of alum or other saline matters, 
 with which flour is sometimes adulterated, may 
 be detected by burning a loaf of bread. 
 
 If 2000 grains of pure bread are burned, they 
 will not yield more than from 15 to 25 grains of 
 ashes. If more than this is found, some saline 
 substance has been added fraudulently. 
 
 The specific gravity of the flour is also in- 
 creased by chalk, lime, and gypsum. 
 
 Potato starch may be detected in flour by 
 adding nitric acid, which changes the flour to a 
 
 * See Johnston's Chemistry of Life. 
 
MUFFINS, WAFFLES, ETC. 53 
 
 fine orange yellow, but does not affect the color 
 of the potato starch. 
 
 Good flour will show the mark of the fingers, 
 if pinched tightly. 
 
 UNBOLTED WHEAT BREAD. 
 
 To five pounds of flour well mixed with nearly 
 a table-spoonful of salt, add a cup and a half of 
 yeast, a cup of molasses, and about a pint of 
 warm water. 
 
 Unbolted wheat bread is more wholesome 
 than bolted wheat. It should be upon every 
 table, and eaten at least a part of the time. 
 
 CORN MEAL BREAD. 
 
 Sprinkle a little salt over a quart of sifted 
 Indian meal, mix it with scalding water, stir it 
 well. Bake it on a board before the fire, or on 
 a tin in a stove. It may be eaten warm, but no 
 bread should ever be eaten hot. 
 
 INDIAN GRIDDLE CAKES. 
 
 One quart of sifted Indian meal, four large 
 spoonfuls of wheat flour, a quart of new milk, 
 four eggs well beaten and a little salt. Bake 
 them on a soapstone griddle. ( Corn meal deteri* 
 orates in the air sooner than wheat.) 
 
 RYE AND INDIAN BREAD. 
 
 Take four quarts of sifted Indian meal, 
 
54 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, 
 
 sprinkle a table-spoonful of salt over it, pour 
 upon it two quarts of boiling water, and be 
 careful that all the meal is thoroughly wet. 
 When lukewarm, mix in two quarts of rye meal, 
 two table-spoonfuls of yeast, well soaked in a 
 pint of warm water ; add more water, if neces- 
 sary, as Indian meal absorbs a great deal of 
 water. Put it into a large, buttered pan ; 
 smooth the top by dipping the hand in warm 
 water and patting down the loaf. In winter it 
 may be placed in a warm place to rise, but not 
 near the fire in summer. When it begins to 
 crack upon the top, which will be in about two 
 hours and a half, put it into a well-heated oven, 
 and let it bake three or four hours. Indian meal 
 should be well cooked. 
 
 Some persons use sweet milk instead of water, 
 but the bread will not keep so well in summer. 
 Some persons prefer the corn and the rye meal 
 in the proportions of half and half. 
 
 Rye forms a nutritive bread, though inferior in 
 this respect to wheat. It produces a laxative 
 effect upon the system. Rice has the opposite 
 tendency. A mixture of 75 per cent, of rye with 
 25 of rice forms a good bread, free from the de- 
 fects of both. 
 
 CORN MEAL CAKES. 
 
 To one cup of cream add a quart of new 
 milk and a teaspoonful of salt, half a cup of 
 
MUFFINS, WAFFLES, ETC. 55 
 
 sugar and four eggs ; beat in enough fine Indian 
 meal to make stiff batter, and bake it in pans 
 half an hour. 
 
 CORN MEAL GRIDDLE CAKES. 
 
 Boil a quart of milk, and scald with it as 
 much corn meal as will make a thick mush. 
 (Yellow meal needs more boiling than white.) 
 When it is partially cooled, stir in a table-spoon- 
 ful of dry yeast or half a cup of wet yeast, three 
 well beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, and two 
 table-spoonfuls of wheat flour. Let it stand 
 three or four hours, and bake on a hot soap- 
 stone griddle rubbed with salt. (It will be 
 necessary to rub the griddle with the salted rag 
 between every griddle-full of cakes, to prevent 
 burning.) Yellow meal is the best. 
 
 MUFFINS. 
 
 Warm a quart of new milk, and stir in two 
 cups of rich cream ; add four eggs well beaten, 
 a table-spoonful of salt, a cup of yeast or a table- 
 spoonful of well soaked dry yeast, and flour 
 enough to make a stiff batter ; beat it well with 
 a spoon, and let it rise for six hours. Fill the 
 muffin rings half full of the mixture, and bake 
 them about twenty minutes. 
 
 WAFFLES. 
 
 Add to a quart of milk a cup of rich cream, 
 
56 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, 
 
 a little salt, four well beaten eggs, and flour 
 enough to make a thin batter ; heat and rub the 
 irons well with salt, fill them and bake them 
 very quickly. Grate sugar over them, and eat 
 them with cream, or with butter when they are 
 not too hot to melt it 
 
 RICE WAFFLES. 
 
 Add a cup of rice, boiled soft and mashed 
 fine to the above, with half the quantity of 
 flour. 
 
 RYE CAKES. 
 
 To one cup of rye flour add one of Hecker's 
 prepared flour, a cup of warm milk, half a cup 
 of cream, half a teaspoonful of salt, and four 
 eggs ; beat it till it is light, and bake in cups, one 
 third full, a good hour. 
 
 BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 
 
 To one quart of buckwheat flour add half a 
 cup of yeast, a cup of cream, a table-spoonful of 
 salt, and make a thin batter with warm water. 
 After beating these well together, set the mix- 
 ture to rise for about eight hours; heat the 
 griddle and rub it with a dry cloth well saturated 
 with salt. Bake in small cakes. 
 
 RICE-FLOUR DROPS. 
 
 Rub a table-spoonful of salt into a pint of 
 rice-flour, or ground rice ; take a quart of milk, 
 
MUFFINS, WAFFLES, ETC. 57 
 
 and wet the flour with a portion of it. Boil the 
 rest and turn the wet flour into it, and let it boil 
 till it is a very thick mush, stirring it all the 
 time, that it may not burn; let it cool off and 
 then add the yolks of four well-beaten eggs; 
 beat the whites of the eggs in a flat dish till 
 they are all foam, stir these into the warm mix- 
 ture and add as much rice-flour as can be stirred 
 in with a spoon. With a table-spoon, wet in 
 water, cut out the cakes and lay them on a tin 
 that has been rubbed with salt ; bake them till 
 they are of a delicate brown. 
 
 DROP CAKES. 
 
 Put six well-beaten eggs into a pint of thick 
 cream, add a little salt, and make it into a thick 
 batter with flour. Bake it in rings or in small 
 cups, fifteen or twenty minutes. The same may 
 be made with Graham flour. 
 
 CREAM BISCUIT. 
 
 A pint bowl full of light dough that has been 
 made wholly with milk, with the addition of a 
 small teacup of cream and a fresh egg, will 
 make a very nice dish of biscuits. These ingre- 
 dients must be thoroughly kneaded together, then 
 rolled out to an inch of thickness and cut with 
 the top of a tumbler or a cake cutter. Tlace 
 them on a tin sheet, and let them rise in a Mod- 
 erately warm place ; when well risen, they will 
 
58 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, 
 
 bake in twelve or fifteen minutes in a quick oven 
 or baker. Care must be taken not to bake them 
 too long. This mixture may be made into bunns 
 by adding brown sugar and essence of lemon. 
 
 RUSK. 
 
 Beat three eggs thoroughly, then beat in a cup 
 full of sugar, and a little flavoring to the taste, 
 of lemon or nutmeg. • Add a tumbler and a half 
 of rich cream which has first been mixed with a 
 little flour ; use no more flour than will give it 
 consistency enough to be moulded. Let it rise 
 all night or all day, and when very light, put it 
 upon tins to rise again before baking. Bake in 
 a quick oven, fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 GERMAN WAFFLES. 
 
 A pint of the richest cream, four eggs, half a 
 gill of yeast, a little salt, and flour enough to 
 make a batter as thick as for griddle cakes. The 
 waffle iron must be heated on hot coals and 
 then buttered, one side filled with batter, shut 
 up and laid upon the coals ; in a few minutes 
 turn it upon the other side. These cakes may 
 also be baked excellently on a soapstone griddle 
 rubbed with salt. 
 
 RICE GRIDDLE CAKES. 
 
 Boil a tea-cup of rice in two teacups and a 
 half of water ; when the water is nearly ab- 
 
MUFFINS, WAFFLES, ETC. 59 
 
 sorbed, add a pint and a half of milk ; when the 
 rice is very soft, let it cool, then add a table- 
 spoonful of dry yeast that has been well soaked, 
 three eggs, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little 
 salt and flavoring, and flour enough to make a 
 suitable batter for the soapstone griddle. Let it 
 rise till it is very light. These will be very good 
 with one egg, a cup of cream and no yeast. 
 
 GROUND RICE GRIDDLE CAKES. 
 
 Mix half a teacup-ful of ground rice, very 
 smoothly, in a gill of cold milk, and pour it into 
 a pint of boiling milk. While boiling hot, add 
 a little salt, and stir in flour enough to make a 
 batter for the griddle. When cool, half a tea- 
 cup of yeast and three eggs will raise it very 
 light. 
 
 CREAM CAKES. 
 
 Stir a teaspoonful of salt into a pint of thick, 
 sweet cream ; sift in slowly a quart of flour ; 
 roll it an inch thick, cut it out with the top of a 
 tumbler, and bake in an oven. 
 
 ROLLS. 
 Take a cup of sweet cream, the whites of 
 three eggs beaten to a foam, a teaspoonful of 
 salt risings, and a little salt ; mix in a pound of 
 sifted flour with warm milk enough to make a 
 stiff dough. Set it in a warm place, and it will 
 
60 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, ETC. 
 
 rise in an hour. Knead it into rolls, and bake 
 on a floured tin in a quick oven for fifteen 
 minutes. 
 
 IRISH POTATO CAKES. 
 
 Add a cup of sweet cream to a quart of 
 boiled, mashed Irish potato. Salt it and stir 
 in flour enough to make a paste, (as little flour 
 as will answer the purpose,) and bake it on a 
 board before the fire, or in a floured tin pan. 
 
 FLANNEL CAKES. 
 
 Beat into a quart of new milk or cream the 
 yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, a 
 pint of flour, a teaspoonful of salt risings, and a 
 teaspoonful of salt. Beat the yolks separately 
 from the whites till they are all foam ; stir the 
 flour into the egg, then the yeast, then the milk 
 or cream by degrees. Beat it well when all 
 mixed, and let it rise for three or four hours ; 
 bake on a griddle, or in waffle irons. The batter 
 must be thicker for waffles than for griddle 
 cakes. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 BREAD PUDDING. 
 
 To one loaf of bread, well grated, pour two 
 quarts of boiled milk or cream, four eggs, (more 
 if convenient,) a quarter of a pound of white 
 sugar, flavor to the taste, (mace is a very good 
 flavor,) and bake an hour. If the boiled milk is 
 poured upon pieces of stale bread and left stand- 
 ing two hours, they can be mashed and freed from 
 lumps with the hand before putting in the eggs. 
 Dried currants, that have been well washed and 
 swelled in luke-warm water, or raisins, will be a 
 good addition to this pudding. If made with 
 crackers, it will be still more delicate. Cold 
 sauce may be eaten with it, or fruit sauce, if no 
 fruit is put into the pudding.* 
 
 TAPIOCA PUDDING. 
 
 Swell a cup of tapioca, either in water or 
 milk, till it has become jelly; add a pint of cold 
 milk or cream, five eggs, two cups of sugar, half 
 
 * Stale bread may be made fresh by heating in a covered tin. 
 
 [61J 
 
62 PUDDINGS. 
 
 a teaspoonful of salt, and the grated rind of half 
 a lemon. A cup of raisins or currants will im- 
 prove it. Bake it an hour and a half. 
 
 SAGO PUDDING. 
 
 Is made in a similar manner, but requires 
 more eggs. 
 
 ARROW-ROOT PUDDING. 
 
 Wet half a cupful of arrow-root with a cup 
 of cold milk. Then pour upon it a pint of boil- 
 ing milk, in which a teacupful of powdered 
 white sugar has been dissolved, stirring it briskly ; 
 add four eggs, and lemon juice, or grated rind, 
 or mace, according to taste. Line a dish with 
 thin potato paste, or bake it by itself, according 
 to taste. 
 
 MACARONI PUDDING. 
 
 Soften macaroni over the fire in milk until it 
 is tender. Two ounces to the pint will make a 
 good sized pudding. Add four or five eggs, a 
 teacupful of white sugar, flavor it with lemon, 
 peach water, or rose water, and bake it an hour. 
 
 COCOA-NUT PUDDING. 
 
 Grate the cocoa-nut very fine ; take the cocoa- 
 nut milk, add to it two cups of rich, sweet 
 cream, as much sugar as cocoa-nut by weight, 
 five or six well beaten eggs, and a little grated 
 
PUDDINGS. 63 
 
 lemon. Line a baking dish with thin cream or 
 potato paste, and bake it an hour. It may be 
 necessary to cover it with paper when partly 
 baked. 
 
 PINE-APPLE PUDDING. 
 
 Peel the pine-apple, grate it fine ; take its 
 weight in sugar, and add to the sugar two or 
 three cups of cream ; beat these to a foam with 
 the whites of five eggs ; after mixing this with 
 the pine-apple, beat it half an hour, and bake it, 
 with or without crust. 
 
 ALMOND PUDDING. 
 
 Pulverize in a mortar half a pound of blanched 
 almonds ; beat up eight eggs, a pound of sugar, 
 and three or four cups of rich cream till they 
 foam ; stir in first the almonds, then the eggs, 
 then rose water or lemon juice. Add new milk 
 or more cream, and bake it in a deep pudding- 
 dish three quarters of an hour. 
 
 SQUASH PUDDING. 
 
 A quart of well stewed and sifted squash, a 
 quart of grated bread, a teaspoonful of salt, six 
 eggs, a pound of sugar, a flavoring of mace or 
 lemon, and a quart or three pints of good cream, 
 will make a very nice pudding. Line the pud- 
 ding-dish with thin potato paste. 
 
64 PUDDINGS. 
 
 CARROT PUDDING. 
 
 A pint of carrot that has been stewed well 
 and sifted carefully, to three pints of grated 
 bread or crackers, added to milk or cream, &c, 
 as above, will make a very nice pudding. 
 
 SWEET POTATO PUDDING. 
 
 Sweet potatoes, which are now cultivated at 
 the West, make a very delicious pudding, com- 
 pounded as above. 
 
 RICE PUDDING. 
 
 Swell a cup of rice, either in milk or water ; 
 add a quart of milk, three eggs, or even one, a 
 little salt, mace and sugar, and bake in a deep 
 dish. 
 
 MARLBOROUGH PUDDING. 
 
 Stew and strain six large apples, add half a 
 pint of rich cream, the rind of one lemon, and 
 the juice of two, six eggs and six ounces of 
 sugar. Line a deep baking dish with rich potato 
 paste, (a cup of cream to a quart of mashed 
 potato,) and bake it an hour. 
 
 CUSTARD PUDDING. 
 
 One quart of milk, eight eggs, half a pound of 
 sugar ; season with lemon or peach, pour it into 
 a pudding dish wet with cream, set the pudding 
 into a pan half full of water, and put them into 
 the oven to bake for three quarters of an hour. 
 
PUDDINGS. 65 
 
 If preferred, line the baking dish with delicate 
 cream paste. Less egg will make a good 
 custard. 
 
 BOILED INDIAN PUDDING. 
 
 Four teacups of Indian meal scalded with a 
 quart of boiling water, two teaspoonfuls of salt, 
 two gills of molasses. Tie in a cloth so as to 
 let it swell one third, and boil three hours. Two 
 cups of stewed apple will improve it. This 
 pudding is very good eaten with roast beef as a 
 vegetable. 
 
 BAKED INDIAN PUDDING. 
 
 Put four heaping table-spoonfuls of Indian 
 meal into a pan ; mix with it a teacup of molas- 
 ses, and a teaspoonful of salt. Boil three pints 
 of milk with orange peel ; pour it scalding hot 
 upon the meal, stirring it briskly the while, that 
 it may not become lumpy ; wet a deep pudding 
 pan with cream, and pour in the pudding ; lastly, 
 pour gently over the top a tumbler full of cold 
 milk or cream ; bake it four or five hours in a 
 hot oven. If it scorches upon the top, cover it 
 with paper lightly. 
 
 ANOTHER BAKED INDIAN PUDDING. 
 Boil one quart of milk, and pour it scalding 
 hot upon half a pint of Indian meal; after it 
 has cooled a little, beat four eggs thoroughly 
 5 
 
66 PUDDINGS. 
 
 with two cups of brown sugar, and a cup of 
 cream. Bake it three hours. 
 
 FLOUR AND INDIAN PUDDING. 
 
 Four table-spoonfuls of flour, four of Indian 
 meal, four eggs, one quart of boiling milk, one 
 cup of molasses, one teaspoonful of salt ; pour, 
 a cup of cream over it just before it goes into 
 the oven. Bake three hours. 
 
 WHORTLEBERRY PUDDING. 
 
 One pint of milk, three eggs, flour enough for 
 a stiff batter. When these are well mixed, add 
 three pints of berries, and tie the whole pretty 
 tightly in a floured cloth, and boil it two hours 
 and a half. Serve with cream sauce. 
 
 A COLD FRUIT PUDDING. 
 
 Stew together one quart each of whortleberries, 
 raspberries, blackberries, a pint of currants, and 
 a pound of brown sugar. 
 
 Cut a brick loaf into thin slices, and line with 
 them a deep bowl. Pour in a layer of the fruit, 
 then a layer of thin bread, and so alternately 
 until the bowl is full. Lay a plate upon the 
 bowl, which will go easily within the circum- 
 ference of it. Lay a heavy weight upon it and 
 let it stand several hours, perhaps all night. 
 
 Serve with cream or cream sauce. Any sweet 
 and acid fruit combined will answer. 
 
PUDDINGS. 67 
 
 BOILED BATTER PUDDING. 
 
 Eight eggs, eight spoonfuls of flour, one quart 
 of milk ; beat these together very thoroughly ; 
 put the mixture into a well floured cloth or a 
 water rinsed mould, and boil one hour. Serve 
 it with cold sauce. If more flour and less egg 
 is used, boil it longer. 
 
 The same pudding may be baked in an oven 
 three quarters of an hour. 
 
 BOILED BREAD PUDDING. 
 
 Pour a quart of boiled milk or cream upon a 
 pound of grated or thinly shaved bread. Let it 
 soak thus for an hour or two, and then mash it 
 and mix it finely together ; add four or five 
 beaten eggs, two cups of sugar, a little lemon 
 juice or essence of lemon, or a little mace pow- 
 dered with fine sugar. Bake it two hours. Add 
 raisins, or a flavor of wine for boiling, and let it 
 boil four hours. 
 
 AN INNOCENT PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 Ten or a dozen soft crackers may be broken 
 into a quart of good milk or cream. Let it 
 stand thus all night, and in the morning rub the 
 whole through a cullender. Add eight eggs, a 
 pound of sugar, a cup of molasses, a cup of 
 wine, a table-spoonful of salt, the grated rind of 
 a lemon, half a teaspoonful of mace, a quarter 
 of a pound of citron, a pound of currants, and 
 
68 PUDDINGS. 
 
 a pound and a half of stoned raisins. Let it be 
 boiled five hours, and served with cold sauce of 
 braided sugar and butter and white of egg. 
 Leave out the suet, cloves, nutmeg and brandy, 
 that render plum pudding so deleterious. 
 
 SUNDERLAND PUDDING. 
 
 Make a batter as for a batter pudding, and 
 bake it in small cups. Fill the cups two thirds 
 full, having wet them previously with sweet 
 cream. 
 
 RICE PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 Half a pound of rice, half a pound of raisins, 
 half a teaspoonful of salt ; tie it in a cloth, and 
 boil it two hours and a half. To be eaten with 
 sweet sauce. 
 
 BAKED RICE PUDDING. 
 
 Swell a large cup of rice, in milk or water, 
 (milk being preferable,) add to it when swelled, 
 a quart of milk, five eggs, two table-spoonfuls of 
 brown sugar, or a cup of molasses, a little mace 
 or cinnamon, a teaspoonful of salt, and a cup of 
 rich cream ; bake it an hour and a half. If the 
 rice is put into cold milk unswelled, and baked 
 immediately, bake it three hours. It will be a 
 very good pudding with two eggs, or with the 
 cup of cream left out. Raisins may be added if 
 desired. 
 
PUDDINGS. 69 
 
 MIRROR PUDDING. 
 
 Eight well beaten eggs, and a pound of pow- 
 dered sugar, two cups of rich cream flavored 
 with lemon ; set it on the fire and stir it till it 
 thickens. The best way to do this is to put it 
 in a pitcher, and set it into a kettle of warm 
 water, not boiling, or it will crack the pitcher. 
 Stir it till it thickens, then set it to cool. Line 
 a dish with delicate cream paste, put in the pud- 
 ding with a few strips of citron, if at hand. 
 Bake it nearly an hour in a moderate oven, 
 covering the rim if it burns. 
 
 Eugenie's pudding. 
 Grate three fourths of a pound of stale bread, 
 and mix it with three cups of rich cream, three 
 cups of chopped apples and dried currants, five 
 eggs, and the rind or juice of a lemon. Put it 
 into a mould and boil it three hours. Serve it 
 with cream sauce. 
 
 CRANBERRY PUDDING. 
 
 Stew a quart of cranberries in as little water 
 as possible ; strain it, then sweeten it well and 
 let it cool. Make a potato and cream paste, 
 over which spread the cranberries an inch thick. 
 Roll it in a floured cloth, and tie it at both 
 ends closely. Boil it two hours, and serve it 
 with sweet sauce, or cold sauce made of sugar 
 
70 PUDDINGS. 
 
 and cold butter well braided together. Any 
 kind of fruit will answer as well as cranberries. 
 
 CORN PUDDING. 
 
 Cut lengthwise and scrape from the cobs, 
 eighteen ears of sweet corn ; add a quart of cream 
 or milk, and three eggs ; sugar and salt to the 
 taste. Bake it slowly three hours. 
 
 QUINCE PUDDING. 
 
 Stew eight quinces without peeling them, sift 
 them through a coarse sieve. A pint of cream, 
 half a pound of sugar, six eggs, and a little cin- 
 namon, will make a very delicious pudding. 
 
 NAPOLEON PUDDING. 
 
 Six eggs, six chopped apples, six ounces of 
 grated bread, six ounces of dried currants, six 
 ounces of sugar, and a little salt. Boil it two 
 hours, and serve with cream sauce. 
 
 A RACHEL PUDDING. 
 
 Line a dish with slices of bread wet with 
 cream, slice apples very thin, (save the parings 
 and cores of apples for jelly,) sprinkle them with 
 sugar, flavor them with orange peel, lemon peel, 
 or anything agreeable to taste; put in alternate 
 layers of thin bread and apple, and reserve some 
 bread that will fit the top of the dish ; set a plate 
 upon the top to keep it well pressed, and when 
 
PUDDINGS. 71 
 
 it is nearly done, take off the plate that it may 
 brown on top. 
 
 GROUND RICE PUDDING. 
 
 One pint of milk, half a pint of ground rice ; 
 wet the flour with some of the milk ; boil the 
 rest and pour over the wet flour, stirring it that 
 it may not lump, return it to the fire, and boi] 
 till a very thick mush. Great care must be used 
 to prevent its getting burnt ; stir it all the time ; 
 when done stir in half a cup of cream, and half 
 a teaspoonful of salt. Take two or more eggs, 
 beat the whites on a large flat dish with a case 
 knife, till they are all foam, beat the yolks 
 separately, season with a little lemon juice; 
 before the rice and milk are cool, beat all to- 
 gether, put into a water-rinsed dish, and bake an 
 hour. 
 
 Note. — Everything that is made of rice is very wholesome. 
 Rice is an absorbent, corrects an acid stomach, and even when 
 mixed with rich ingredients, tends to neutralize their deleterious 
 qualities. 
 
 POTATO PUDDING. 
 
 To one quart of potatoes well boiled and 
 mashed, add half a pint of boiled cream, four 
 eggs, (beating the whites separately,) a teacup- 
 ful of white sugar, some grated lemon peel, or 
 other flavoring, and bake it an hour. 
 
72 PUDDINGS. 
 
 APPLE DUMPLING. 
 
 Line a bowl with potato paste, allowing the 
 paste to come a little over the edge. Pare some 
 apples and fill the bowl ; scatter in a little orange 
 or lemon peel, or a little cinnamon, or pour in a 
 wine glass of Madeira ; when the bowl is quite 
 full, cover with paste, turn over the edges and 
 wet them with water and pinch them together; 
 set the bowl into the oven, or slip out the dump- 
 ling into a well floured cloth, and boil it in 
 water already boiling. 
 
 LEMON PUDDING. 
 
 Half a pint of rich cream, four eggs, a glass 
 of wine, the grated rind of two lemons with the 
 juice and pulp ; salt and sugar to the taste. 
 The sugar, eggs, lemon, and wine, should be 
 stirred into the boiled cream when it has been 
 cooled off, to prevent curdling. Four oranges 
 and less sugar, for an orange pudding. 
 
 Wash twelve apples, take out the cores, but 
 do not open them all the way through, wet a 
 dish with cream, and lay them into it ; fill the 
 holes in the apples with sugar, orange peel or 
 mace, or the gratings of a lemon. Pour over 
 them a custard, or a nice batter, and bake an 
 hour. Eat with cold sauce. 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 73 
 
 APPLE INDIAN PUDDING. 
 
 Scald half a pint of Indian meal with milk, 
 add three table-spoonfuls of molasses, a cup of 
 cream, a teaspoonful of salt, six apples cut into 
 small pieces, and bake it three hours. 
 
 INDIAN PUDDING THAT CAN BE USED AS A VEGE- 
 TABLE WITH CREAM GRAVY. 
 
 Scald Indian meal thoroughly, tie it up tight 
 in a bag, and boil it three hours. 
 
 RYE PUDDING. 
 
 Put three large table-spoonfuls of rye-meal into 
 a pint of cold milk or cream, add a little salt and 
 three or four eggs. Boil it an hour in a bowl 
 wet with cream. 
 
 BATTER PUDDING. 
 
 A quart of cold milk or cream, nine eggs, 
 twelve spoonsfuls of flour, a little salt, and flavor- 
 ing to the taste. Boil in a well floured cloth, an 
 hour and a half. 
 
 This batter can be baked in little cups wet 
 with cream. They will bake in an hour. 
 
 ' ohio pudding. (Delicious.) 
 One fourth of baked and mashed sweet pota- 
 to, one fourth of well strained squash or carrot, 
 two fourths of finely grated bread, one quart of 
 milk or cream, four table-spoonfuls of brown 
 sugar, four eggs, flavoring to the taste, a tea- 
 
74 PUDDINGS. 
 
 spoonful of salt. Bake three hours in a moder- 
 ate oven, and eat it with cold sauce, or when it 
 is partially cooled, sift loaf sugar over it. 
 
 COLD PUDDING SAUCE. 
 
 Half a pound of fine-powdered sugar, half a 
 pound of butter, beat to a froth with the hand ; 
 now beat in a cup of cream. Flavor with grated 
 lemon rind, or a little lemon juice. 
 
 HOT PUDDING SAUCE. 
 
 Boil half a pint of cream, and turn it upon 
 half a pound of powdered sugar. Boil it once 
 more, and flavor with lemon or peach. 
 
 FRUIT SAUCE. 
 
 Stew a dozen plums or cherries. Boil a pint 
 of cream, and pour it over a pound of powdered 
 sugar ; add the fruit, flavored with lemon or rose 
 water. 
 
 SUGAR SAUCE. 
 
 Boil a pint of sifted brown sugar ; add a cup 
 of sweet cream. 
 
 A GERMAN SAUCE. APPLE CREAM, FOR PUDDING 
 SAUCE, OR TEA SAUCE. 
 
 Beat up six large baked apples deprived of 
 their skin after baking, with an egg and a table- 
 spoonful of cream. Beat the white of the egg 
 separately, and pour it upon the top. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 This is the article of food which is most dele- 
 terious to health. It is usually made with butter 
 or lard, — lard making the handsomest pastry, 
 butter the best tasted. But it is hoped that society 
 is ready for reform upon this point. Very good 
 pie-crust can be made with potato and cream, 
 without either butter, saleratus, or soda. 
 
 POTATO PIE-CRUST. 
 
 Put a teacupful of rich, sweet cream, to six 
 good sized potatoes, after they have been well 
 boiled, (see boiled potatoes,) and mashed fine. 
 Add salt to the taste, and flour enough to enable 
 you to roll out the crust. Handle it as little as 
 possible. It is better not to put crust at the 
 bottom of a pie if the fruit is very moist, for it 
 will be clammy from the moisture, but let the 
 under crust only cover the rim of the plate. 
 Prick the upper crust to let out the steam, else 
 the syrup will run over. This paste is excellent 
 for apple dumplings, or meat pie, and may be 
 eaten with impunity. 
 
 [75] 
 
76 PASTRY. 
 
 This is the only pastry that a good mother 
 ever ought to put upon her table. Pastry made 
 with lard and butter is sufficiently injurious to 
 the stomach to destroy digestion, by taxing too 
 severely the most healthful stomach of the most 
 healthful child, or even parent. Its effects may 
 not be manifest immediately. Nature's punish- 
 ments are often slow, though sure. It takes a 
 long time to exhaust all the resources of nature, 
 which will gently treat abuses as accidents for a 
 time, but let the confirmed dyspeptic review his 
 early life, and ask himself the question honestly, 
 " has my food always been innocent ? " before 
 he complains. 
 
 Too much cannot be said upon this subject. 
 If one cannot procure cream for pastry, make 
 puddings of bread and fruit, as directed in 
 another part of this Manual. Bread, well satur- 
 ated with the juice of stewed fruit, is as savory 
 to a healthy palate as rich pastry, and may be 
 eaten with the addition of cold butter, if no 
 cream can be obtained. In this connection, we 
 would recommend a cow as the most valuable 
 possession for a family of children. It would be 
 better to have a less expensive carpet, or chimney 
 ornaments, or even bonnet and cloak, and have 
 a friendly cow in the shed or barn. 
 
PASTRY. 77 
 
 We give no receipt for minced pies, except 
 for 
 
 APPLE MINCED PIES. 
 
 Chop twelve apples, beat up six eggs, add 
 half a pint of cream, with sugar, raisins, cur- 
 rants, or citron, to the taste, and a glass of good 
 wine, or a little spice for flavoring. If any one 
 thinks these pies will be improved by a portion 
 of chopped meat, it can be added. For such a 
 pie, or for any pie that has moist contents, it is 
 better to bake the under-crust first, and then put 
 in the contents and cover the top with a thin 
 paste which will soon bake. 
 
 If Hecker's prepared flour can be procured, 
 pastry can be made of it with the addition of 
 cream without the potato. It may be mixed 
 even with water and be palatable, but can hardly 
 be called pastry in that case. 
 
 CHERRY PIES. 
 
 The common red cherry makes the best pies. 
 Five spoonfuls of sugar to every pie baked in a 
 deep dish. 
 
 Unripe fruit should never be used even in 
 cooking. 
 
 Any kind of ripe fruit is good for pies. 
 
 RHUBARB TARTS. 
 
 Peel the rhubarb, cut it into inch pieces, wrap 
 them in a cloth to absorb some of the juice. 
 
78 PASTRY. 
 
 Stew them gently in their own juice ; cover 
 them closely, and when they are softened a little, 
 add sugar to the taste. Do not let them stew 
 long enough to be broken. Bake the pie-crust 
 before you put in the rhubarb. Lemon is the 
 proper flavoring for this plant. These tarts need 
 no upper-crust, but merely a rim and strips laid 
 across tastefully. 
 
 CRANBERRY TARTS. 
 
 Like the above. 
 
 APPLE PIES. 
 
 These may be made with stewed apple, with 
 the addition of rich cream and an egg, and such 
 flavoring as suits the taste, grated lemon, lemon 
 juice, mace, or orange peel. 
 
 They may also be made with raw apple, sliced 
 very fine. After they are partly baked, lift the 
 upper crust a little, and pour in rich cream, 
 beaten with an egg, and sweetened and flavored 
 to the taste. Bake from an hour and a half to 
 two hours. 
 
 PAN-DOWDY. 
 
 Fill a dish with stewed apples, sweetened and 
 flavored. Cover it with a good paste of dough 
 that has been mixed with milk; when this is 
 baked nearly enough, take it off and break it 
 into the apple and replace it in the oven. If the 
 
PASTRY. 
 
 79 
 
 whole has become somewhat dry, pour over it a 
 teacup of rich cream. 
 
 DRIED APPLE PIE OR DRIED PEACH PIE. 
 
 When dried fruit is used, it must be soaked 
 over night in cold water, then stewed in the 
 same. If the peaches are whole, do not stone 
 them. The stones of fruit contain a fine flavor, 
 which adds very much to the taste of the pie. 
 When the pastry is closed around the edges of 
 a pie containing stewed fruit, wet the edges with 
 cold water carefully around the whole circum- 
 ference, and prick the top, to prevent the escape 
 of the syrup. Free-stone peaches do not require 
 such long cooking as cling-stones. 
 
 Dried fruit is very unwholesome unless well 
 soaked. 
 
 CREAM PIE. 
 
 Boil and sweeten the cream, flavor it with 
 grated lemon, bake the pastry first, and then 
 pour it in and bake it till of suitable consistency. 
 This makes a delicious pie. 
 
 CHICKEN PIE. 
 
 Put the chickens into boiling water for fifteen 
 or twenty minutes, having only as much water 
 in the kettle as will barely cover them. Cut 
 them up carefully in a dish and remove the skin, 
 if it is very thick. Put it into a deep dish cov- 
 
80 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 ered with paste already baked, in layers, mixing 
 in the chopped hearts and livers, and sprinkling 
 each layer with flour and salt and a little mace. 
 When you have filled the dish, pour over it as 
 much of the liquor, in which the chickens were 
 boiled, as the dish will hold. Wet the edges of 
 the pastry with water, lay on the top crust, close 
 it carefully at the edges, prick it well, and bake 
 it till the top crust is done. The crust for a 
 chicken pie should be thicker than that for a 
 fruit pie. Rich cream added to the liquor will 
 improve it. 
 
 squash or pumpkin pie. ( Squash is the nicest.) 
 Steam the squash, strain it carefully through 
 a sieve, add two, four, or six eggs, according to 
 convenience, to eight table-spoonfuls of squash, 
 one quart of boiled new milk or cream, a glass 
 of wine, a lemon, (the rind being grated,) and 
 sugar, salt, and mace, to the taste. This pie 
 needs only an under-crust and an edge. 
 
 OYSTER PIE. 
 
 Line the pans or plates with paste, and bake 
 it. Take a quart of oysters and put the juice 
 into a saucepan with half a teaspoonful of mace, 
 a glass of wine, the juice of a lemon, and when 
 this is scalded, pour in a cup of cream thickened 
 with a little flour. Add the oysters now and let 
 them come to one scald, and lay them directly 
 
PASTRY. 81 
 
 into the already prepared dishes. If you wish 
 for an upper-crust, let it be baked separately on 
 thin tin sheets and laid upon the oysters when 
 they are put into the dish. 
 
 These pies will be very good without the wine 
 or any flavoring, but a little salt. 
 
 SCOLLOPED OYSTERS. 
 
 Take out of the liquor two quarts of oysters, 
 grate a loaf of bread, or eight soft crackers. 
 Wet the pie dish with cream, sprinkle a thick 
 layer of crumbs, and put on them a layer of 
 oysters seasoned to the taste ; pour over them a 
 little rich cream, add another layer of crumbs 
 and oysters, and thus alternately till the dish is 
 filled. Turn over the whole as much oyster 
 liquor as will fill the dish, and let it brown 
 twenty or thirty minutes in the oven. 
 
 LEMON PIE. 
 
 The rind of two lemons grated, the pulp chop- 
 ped fine, after the white skin is removed, eight 
 table-spoonfuls of sugar, two eggs well-beaten, 
 and the whole stirred together. Line a plate 
 with very thin paste, and put in a thick layer of 
 the lemon. Cover this with another thin crust, 
 and fill up the dish with the lemon. Cover it 
 with a thin layer of paste, and bake it from fif- 
 teen to twenty minutes. 
 6 
 
03 PASTRY. 
 
 ORANGE PIE. 
 
 This should be made as above, with much 
 less sugar. 
 
 CORN PIE. 
 
 To twelve ears of green corn grated, add half 
 a pint of rich cream, two eggs, salt to the taste, 
 a little mace, and a picked lobster. Stir all to- 
 gether, and bake it with or without thin paste. 
 
 SHRIMP PIE. 
 
 To a plate of lobster cut up, add a slice of 
 bread, previously soaked in tomato juice, a glass 
 of wine, some grated nutmeg or mace, a little 
 salt, and a cup of rich cream. Stir and bake 
 till brown. 
 
 RICE PIE. 
 
 To a pint of rice boiled soft, add a pint of 
 rich cream, two eggs, salt, and a little mace. 
 Let these ingredients be well mixed, spread half 
 the quantity in a deep baking dish, lay pieces of 
 chicken upon it, and cover them with the re- 
 mainder of the rice, and bake it in a hot oven. 
 
 CHARLOTTE A LA P0MME. 
 
 Cut stale bread into thin slices, dip them in 
 rich cream, place them round a dish or bowl, 
 and fill it up with preserved or stewed apples. 
 Season with grated lemon peel or cinnamon, lay 
 
PASTRY. 83 
 
 some thinner pieces of bread soaked in cream, 
 over the top, and brush them with a feather 
 dipped in egg. Bake it till slightly brown. 
 
 CUSTARD PIE. 
 
 Eight eggs to a quart of rich, boiled cream or 
 milk, (less egg will do very well,) seasoned with 
 lemon or cinnamon, and a little salt. Line 
 plates with good paste, and set them in the oven 
 a few minutes to harden ; then pour in the cus- 
 tard and bake twenty minutes. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 CAKES ; EDGINGS ; ETC. 
 SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 This cake, if made right, is the least injurious 
 of any form of cake, because it contains no but- 
 ter. But it is very difficult to make it good. 
 Eggs must be perfectly fresh, in the first place. 
 They should be kept in cold water the night 
 previous, and the whites should be beaten in a 
 cool place, separately, and to a thick froth, with 
 a cork stuck cross-wise upon a fork, and without 
 stopping once. The sugar should be added to 
 the whites after they are so beaten, and then the 
 yolks, after being thoroughly beaten. This order 
 is very important, and care should be taken that 
 no portion of yolk should be mixed with the 
 whites. It should also be done quickly, each 
 ingredient being well prepared previously. Some 
 persons stir the sugar into the yolks, but this is 
 not so surely successful. Others add the whites 
 to the yolks after both are thoroughly beaten, 
 and then mix the flour and sugar, and stir them 
 
 [84] 
 
CAKES. 85 
 
 in. This is better than putting sugar ana yolks 
 together, but hardly as sure as to put sugar and 
 whites together. A little rich cream, added to 
 the above ingredients, will keep it moist longer, 
 but too much will make it heavy. 
 
 Various proportions of egg, flour, and sugar 
 are used. 
 
 PROVIDENCE SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 The weight of ten eggs in sugar, of six in 
 flour, and a little salt. 
 
 NEW YORK SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 One pound of flour, one and a half of sugar, 
 fifteen eggs, the rind of two lemons grated, and 
 the juice of one, and a little salt. 
 
 BOSTON SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 Three quarters of a pound of flour, one and a 
 quarter of sugar, twelve eggs, one lemon, juice 
 and rind, a little salt. 
 
 OHIO SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 A pound of sugar, a pound of flour, twelve 
 eggs, two table-spoonfuls of cream, the grated 
 rind and juice of a lemon, and a little salt. 
 
 Flour must not be beaten into sponge cake, 
 but gently mixed and baked immediately by a 
 quick fire. If all is right, the cake will rise lightly 
 in five minutes, and be baked in fifteen. 
 
86 CAKES. 
 
 GROUND RICE SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 The weight of nine eggs in sugar, and of six 
 in ground rice ; lemon and salt as above. This 
 will require longer baking. 
 
 CUP-CAKE. 
 
 Three cups of the richest cream, five of flour, 
 five eggs, a little salt, and a lemon, or wine. 
 Currants may be added to this if desired. 
 
 FROSTING. 
 
 Five pounds of finest sifted loaf sugar to five 
 whites of eggs. It will require two hours to 
 beat this to make it stay where it is put. After 
 the cake is baked, lay it on the loaves and re- 
 turn it to the oven till the outside is hardened. 
 Flavor it with lemon or rose water. 
 
 LEMON CAKE. 
 
 To eight eggs and a pint of very rich cream, 
 put a pound of flour, and a pound of sugar, the 
 rind of two lemons, and half the juice of one. 
 Bake it quickly. 
 
 KISS CAKES. 
 
 Five pounds of sifted loaf sugar to five whites 
 of eggs, beaten two hours in a cool place. 
 Flavor with lemon or rose water. Drop a few 
 drops of water upon a sheet of paper laid upon 
 a shallow tin, and drop the mixture upon the 
 
CAKES. 87 
 
 wet spot. Bake in a moderate oven to a pale 
 brown or cream color, probably fifteen minutes. 
 
 One egg and one pound of sugar will make a 
 great many. 
 
 SNOW-CAKE. 
 
 One pound of flour, one of crushed sugar, 
 half a pound of rich cream, the whites of six- 
 teen eggs, beaten two hours. 
 
 COCOA-NUT CAKE. 
 
 One grated cocoa-nut, half the weight in 
 sugar, the white of an egg^ beaten to a stiff froth, 
 mixed thoroughly and dropped on white paper, 
 laid upon tin sheets. 
 
 SOFT SUGAR GINGERBREAD. 
 
 A quart of rich cream, three pounds of flour, 
 two of sugar, (white is the best,) half a tea-cup 
 of ginger, or the juice and rind of a fresh lemon. 
 This will keep a long time, and when it becomes 
 dry, it can be renewed by being heated to the 
 boiling point in a covered tin, like any other 
 cake. If brown sugar is used, it should be sift- 
 ed and heated very hot. 
 
 ANOTHER. 
 
 Five and a half cups of flour, two of molasses, 
 two of sweet cream, and two teaspoonfuls of 
 ginger. 
 
88 
 
 CAKES. 
 
 SHAKESPEARE CAKE. 
 
 Six cups of flour, one of sugar, one of rich 
 cream, eight eggs, and a nutmeg. 
 
 AUNT HANNAH CAKE. 
 
 Half a pint of molasses, three cups of rich 
 cream, fifteen table-spoonfuls of flour, two of 
 ginger, three eggs, and a little grated orange 
 peel. Bake half an hour in tin pans. 
 
 ALMOND CAKE. 
 
 Half a pound of blanched almonds, pounded 
 in a mortar with a little rose-water; sift and 
 warm half a pound of flour ; warm a pound of 
 sugar, and break nine eggs into it, leaving out 
 seven of the whites ; beat it an hour, and then 
 put in the flour and almonds, and stir all to- 
 gether; bake an hour in a pan or box, lined 
 with buttered paper. These may be baked in 
 drops. 
 
 COCOA-NUT DROPS. 
 
 Beat the white of one egg to a froth, flavor 
 it with rose-water or lemon, stir in a pound of 
 sifted sugar, add a cocoa-nut grated, and mix 
 all together with the hand ; roll them up in small 
 balls, and bake them in a quick oven till they 
 are brown, on wet paper laid upon tin sheets. 
 
CAKES. 
 
 89 
 
 CREAM CAKES. 
 
 One pound of flour, half a pint of rich cream ; 
 pour one pint of boiling water upon the cream, 
 and put it over the fire ; as soon as it begins to 
 boil, stir in the flour ; when it is cool, add nine 
 well-beaten eggs. 
 
 To make custards for them, take a pint of rich 
 cream, three well-beaten eggs, and a little flour ; 
 sweeten and flavor it according to taste, and put 
 it on the fire to boil. Drop the crust on tins, 
 and bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven, then 
 open them at the sides and fill them with cus- 
 tard. Cream cakes look better if the crust is 
 rubbed over with the white of an egg before it 
 is baked. 
 
 LEMON CAKE. 
 
 Beat to a foam three cups of sugar, and two 
 of rich cream ; add the yolks of three well-beaten 
 eggs, the juice and grated peel of a lemon, and 
 the whites of five eggs. Add to these four cups 
 of flour as lightly as possible. Bake half an 
 hour. 
 
 MACAROONS. 
 
 Four ounces of blanched almonds, beaten 
 with four spoonfuls of rose water, or orange 
 water, or lemon juice. Beat the whites of four 
 eggs to a high froth ; mix a pound of sugar with 
 the almonds, and stir all together. Bake it on 
 
90 EDGINGS. 
 
 a sheet of white paper laid upon tins, in any 
 shape that suits the fancy. 
 
 SUGAR DROPS. 
 
 Beat separately the whites and yolks of four 
 eggs. Pour two teaspoonfuls of water to the 
 yolks, and then beat them into the frothed 
 whites ; by degrees add a pound of finely sifted 
 sugar, and four ounces of very nicely sifted flour, 
 beating the whole constantly. Drop them on 
 white paper on tin sheets, sift sugar over them 
 to prevent them from running, and bake in a 
 moderate oven for ten minutes. 
 
 BATTER CAKE. 
 
 To half pint of rich cream, add two well- 
 beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, flavor to the 
 taste, and stir in sifted flour till the batter is 
 smooth and thick. Bake on a soap-stone 
 griddle. 
 
 EDGING FOR DISHES. 
 
 Two tea-cups of rice, boiled for half an hour, 
 and seasoned with cream and salt. Lay it neatly 
 around a dish three or four inches high, brush it 
 over with the yolk of an egg, and brown it in 
 the oven. When it is properly browned, turn 
 the hash into the dish. 
 
 This makes a very good crust for a meat pie. 
 
EDGINGS. 91 
 
 POTATO EDGING. 
 
 Boil a dozen good potatoes and mash them 
 well. Add half a pint of rich cream and a little 
 salt. (The quantity of cream must depend upon 
 the quantity of potato; — it must not be made 
 too soft.) Form it into an edging as before, and 
 it will make even a nicer garnishing than the 
 rice. It is good also for a meat pie. 
 
 If you wish to edge a dish containing tongue, 
 place it in lumps with a spoon, and stick parsley 
 into each lump. 
 
 FOR VEAL. 
 
 Slices of lemon or grated horse-radish for 
 edging. 
 
 FOR CORNED BEEF. 
 
 Beets and carrots for an edging. 
 
 FOR BOILED MUTTON. 
 
 Capers and parsley, with drawn cream, pre- 
 pared thus : Rub into a teacup of rich cream 
 half a table-spoonful of flour or corn-starch ; 
 pour upon it a teacup of boiling water. Or, 
 brown some flour in a spider, taking care that it 
 does not burn, and strain the juice of the meat 
 upon it while hot. Add cream while it still 
 boils, and a little salt, and let it boil up once 
 more. Some will like a flavoring of tomato in 
 
VZ SAUCES. 
 
 this gravy, and a little burnt brown sugar. This 
 gravy is perfectly harmless. 
 
 FOR ROAST MUTTON, AND ALL WILD MEATS, 
 
 Currant jelly is appropriate. 
 
 CELERY SAUCE. 
 
 Chop up two or three heads of celery, put 
 them into three pints of cold water, and a little 
 salt. Boil them two hours. Mix a teacup of 
 cream and a table-spoonful of flour, and let it 
 boil up again. 
 
 BREAD SAUCE. 
 
 Boil a large slice of stale bread, grated, in a 
 cup of cream, with a little mace and salt ; when 
 about half done, add a glass of wine.* 
 
 FISH SAUCE. 
 
 Half a pint of cream, (new milk will answer,) 
 two well-beaten eggs, salt, and the juice of half 
 a lemon. Put it over the fire and stir it till it 
 thickens. Serve in a butter-boat. 
 
 LOBSTER SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 
 Cut up all the soft parts of a lobster very fine, 
 and put it into a saucepan with half a pint of 
 cream, thickened with two or three table-spoon- 
 
 * The alcohol boils at a lower temperature than water, and 
 will, therefore, be dissipated in the process of cooking. 
 
SAUCES. 93 
 
 fuls of flour. Add salt and a little vinegar, and 
 pepper if desired, but pepper is a condiment that 
 some people cannot bear, and is easily added 
 by the individual who desires it. 
 
 APPLE SAUCE, 
 
 For roast or boiled goose. Put a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar into a pint of water ; let it boil 
 ten minutes ; peel, core, and quarter as many 
 apples as the syrup will cover. Simmer slowly 
 till they are tender. If taken up carefully, the 
 apples will be transparent and unbroken. 
 
 CRANBERRY SAUCE, 
 
 For roast beef and poultry. Put the cran- 
 berries into as little water as will cover them. 
 Boil them half an hour, then stir and sweeten 
 them, and cover them tightly. Let them sim- 
 mer fifteen minutes thus, and then fifteen 
 minutes uncovered. 
 
 MINT SAUCE, 
 
 For hot or cold roast lamb. Wash the mint, 
 mince the leaves very fine, and mix them with 
 vinegar and sugar. 
 
 CURRIE SAUCE. 
 
 Mix currie powder with rich cream, and if 
 desired, add a little vinegar. 
 
94 SAUCES. 
 
 GRAVY FOR BEEF. 
 
 Pour the juice of the dripping pan into a 
 saucepan, containing a little boiling water. Set 
 it in the air to cool, and then take off the sur- 
 face, which will be a layer of fat. Strain the 
 remainder upon a cup of cream, thickened with 
 a table-spoonful of flour. Add salt to the taste, 
 and let it boil once. A well-beaten egg will 
 also improve it. Gravies should always be 
 strained. What runs from the meat, after it is 
 cooked, is a purer juice. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 SWEET DISHES. 
 
 ICE-CREAM. 
 
 Strain the juice of a dozen lemons upon as 
 much crushed sugar as will absorb it ; stir into 
 this very gradually and steadily three quarts of 
 cream. 
 
 If you have a proper freezer, the process of 
 freezing will be very easy ; but if not, put the 
 cream into a tin pail, and set it into a larger one, 
 or into a small tub, filled closely with coarse 
 salt and lumps of ice. When the cream begins 
 to freeze around the edge, stir it well, and shake 
 the pail until it is all frozen. 
 
 ANOTHER MODE. 
 
 Add a pound of loaf sugar, half a teaspoonful 
 of arrow-root, wet in a little milk, to a quart of 
 new milk, while boiling. After it has boiled up 
 again, add a quart of cream, mixed with three 
 well-beaten eggs. It should not boil up again, 
 
 [95] 
 
96 SWEET DISHES. 
 
 but when it scalds, strain it and set it to cool. 
 Then add your flavor of lemon or rose water, 
 and put it into the freezer. 
 
 STRAWBERRY, OR RASPBERRY CREAM. 
 
 To a quart of cream, add a pint of bruised 
 raspberries or strawberries, and two heaping 
 spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Strain the whole 
 through a sieve, and freeze it. 
 
 CURRANT ICE CREAM. 
 
 A gill of fresh currant juice, sweetened and 
 stirred into half a pint of cream ; or half a tea- 
 cup of currant jelly, and the juice of a lemon, 
 added to half a pint of cream. 
 
 CUSTARD ICE CREAM. 
 
 Cold soft custard, flavored with lemon juice, 
 or the juice of bruised raspberries or straw- 
 berries, stirred briskly that it may not curdle, 
 may be frozen ; or a spoonful of arrow-root, 
 boiled in a quart of seasoned milk, with the 
 addition of a well-beaten egg, will make a very 
 good ice cream. 
 
 LEMON ICE. 
 
 Sweeten the juice of half a dozen squeezed 
 lemons, and add a third as much water ; strain 
 and freeze it. 
 
SWEET DISHES. 97 
 
 SOFT CUSTARDS. 
 These may be made very rich if desired. A 
 pint of milk and a pint of cream, eight eggs, and 
 a third of a pound of sugar, will make them 
 very rich. Six eggs and two spoonfuls of pow- 
 dered sugar will make very good custard with 
 the same quantity of milk. The stirring must 
 be continued till they are done. This may be 
 facilitated by boiling the milk, (containing a 
 stick of cinnamon or peach leaves,) in a sauce- 
 pan, and then turning it into a pitcher that has 
 been gradually heated in a kettle of boiling 
 water. At the boiling point, turn the milk into 
 the pitcher, put in the sugar, then stir in the well- 
 beaten eggs. Stir the whole one way, with a 
 steady motion, and the moment you feel it 
 thicken take it out of the kettle and turn it into 
 the cups, or into a cold pitcher, that it may not 
 harden. This is much more digestible than 
 hard boiled custard. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CUSTARD. 
 
 Add to the above a quarter of pound of choco- 
 late, dissolved in boiling water. 
 
 FRENCH CUSTARD. 
 
 Put a quart of milk, flavored and sweetened, 
 
 into a flat saucepan to boil. Beat to a perfect 
 
 froth the whites of eight eggs. When the milk 
 
 boils, lay on the egg by spoonfuls, and let it 
 
 7 
 
98 
 
 SWEET DISHES. 
 
 harden a little. Then skim it off upon a dish. 
 When the whites are cooled, beat up the yolks 
 and stir them into the milk, until it thickens. 
 Turn this over the whites, and ornament it with 
 jelly or marmalade. 
 
 ALMOND CUSTARD. 
 
 Blanch and pound fine a quarter of a pound 
 of almonds and boil them in a quart of milk, 
 sweetened to the taste. Beat and strain eight 
 eggs, and turn the boiling mixture upon them, 
 stirring them till it thickens. Boil in a pitcher 
 set into a kettle of boiling water, like other soft 
 custards. 
 
 To blanch almonds, pour boiling water over 
 them, and in a few minutes rub off the skins, 
 and throw them into cold water. 
 
 WHIPS. 
 
 A pound of sugar, the juice of six lemons, 
 mixed with a quart of rich cream, and whipped 
 to a strong froth. Serve in glasses. If a pine- 
 apple be cut in thin slices, sprinkled with sugar, 
 and allowed to stand all night, and strained 
 into the sugar through a sieve in the morning, 
 it will add very much to the goodness of the 
 whip. 
 
 TRIFLE. 
 
 Cut stale cake into thin slices, lay them in a 
 
SWEET DISHES. 99 
 
 deep dish, turn on a tumbler of white wine, and 
 when the cake has absorbed the wine, grate the 
 rind of a lemon over it, pour on soft custard, 
 and surmount the whole with whip as high as 
 possible. 
 
 Preserved fruit laid over the cake, and sur- 
 mounted with a lofty whip, will make a very 
 handsome dish. 
 
 FRESH FRUIT TRIFLE. 
 
 Stew gooseberries or apples, or bruise rasp- 
 berries or strawberries, lay them upon soft cus- 
 tard or upon cake dipped in cream, and cover it 
 with whip. 
 
 TO MAKE WHIPS FOR GARNISHING. 
 
 Sweeten rich cream and flavor it to the taste. 
 Put it into a shallow dish and lay it on ice, and 
 when it is very cold, move it very quickly with 
 the whip syringe till the froth rises. Drain it 
 upon a sieve to dry it. 
 
 A spoonful of jam or jelly in the bottom of a 
 glass, covered with whip, is a tasteful dish for a 
 dessert, or for an evening party. 
 
 If you wish to color the whip, a few spoon- 
 fuls of fruit juice will do it. 
 
 KISS FROTH. 
 
 Beat the white of an egg to a strong froth, sift 
 on a very little sugar, and set it in the oven to 
 
100 SWEET DISHES. 
 
 brown slightly. It makes a very pretty garnish- 
 ing for sweet dishes. 
 
 FLAVORINGS. 
 
 A quart of raspberries or strawberries, will 
 flavor a gallon of cream. 
 
 Three table-spoonfuls of peach water, ditto. 
 
 A common sized pine-apple, sliced, sugared, 
 and strained, after standing all night, ditto. 
 
 Rub lumps of sugar over the outside of three 
 good lemons, squeeze them, strain the juice, and 
 add as much sugar as will absorb it, to flavor 
 one gallon of cream. 
 
 One bean of vanilla, simmered for two or 
 three hours in half a pint of milk, ditto. 
 
 IMPERIAL CREAM. 
 
 Boil a quart of cream with the thin rind of 
 a lemon. Stir it till nearly cold. Strain the 
 juice of three lemons upon a third of a pound 
 of sugar, and pour the cream upon it from a 
 height, stirring the mixture all the while. Let 
 it stand six hours, and eat it with sweetmeats. 
 
 APPLE CREAM. 
 
 Bake a dozen apples ; take off the skins when 
 done, and take out the cores and seeds ; add a 
 little sugar, and beat up two eggs, yolk and white 
 separately. Beat the yolk in vigorously for half 
 an hour, and spread the white over the top, and 
 sift on a little white sugar. 
 
SWEET DISHES. 101 
 
 FLOATING ISLAND. 
 
 Beat together half a teacupful of currant 
 jelly, or sweetened currant juice, with the juice 
 of two lemons, and the whites of two eggs. 
 Beat to a stiff froth, put it into the centre of a 
 dish, and dress it with sweetmeats. 
 
 ANOTHER, SIMPLER FLOATING ISLAND. 
 
 Warm a quart of new milk or cream, till it is 
 lukewarm, add a table-spoonful of rennet wine, 
 and when it turns to a curd, have ready a whip 
 to turn over it. Eat it immediately. This dish 
 is good without the whip. The milk may also 
 be flavored to the taste, and it may be eaten 
 with sugar and cream, or with imperial cream. 
 When the curd has turned to so hard a sub- 
 stance that it is no longer digestible, the whey 
 is a very healthful beverage. 
 
 ORGEAT. 
 
 Boil two quarts of milk, flavored to the taste. 
 When it is cooling, stir it often, to prevent the 
 cream from rising to the top. Pound four 
 ounces of blanched almonds and mix them with 
 the milk. Sweeten, boil, and strain it into cups. 
 
 A CHARLOTTE R0USSA. 
 
 Dissolve half an ounce of Russian isinglass 
 in nearly half a pint of milk, flavored to the 
 taste. Let it simmer. Beat the yolks of four 
 
102 SWEET DISHES. 
 
 eggs with three ounces of fine sugar, a pint of 
 thick cream, and a tumbler of white wine. 
 Strain the milk while lukewarm into this mix- 
 ture. Add the whites, already beaten to a thick 
 foam, and a pint of cream, and after beating the 
 whole quickly, pour it into a mould lined with 
 thin slices of sponge cake that have been dipped 
 in the white of an egg. 
 
 ISINGLASS BLANC-MANGE. 
 
 Soak an ounce and a half of calf's foot isin- 
 glass, that has been well washed, in a quart of 
 milk. Let it stand all night. In the morning, 
 add flavoring, and boil it slowly for half an hour. 
 Strain it upon a teacup of white sugar. Add 
 two or three beaten eggs while it is hot. Set it 
 away in a mould for a night, for it takes a long 
 time to cool. 
 
 CARAGEEN MOSS BLANC-MANGE. 
 
 Put a large coffee-cup of clean moss into a 
 dish and pour boiling water upon it. Let it 
 stand ten minutes ; wash it again and rinse it 
 in cold water. Let it boil ten minutes in three 
 quarts of milk, seasoned and sweetened ; strain 
 it into moulds. 
 
 calf's foot jelly. 
 Cover four large feet with cold water, and let 
 them soak two hours. When well soaked, add 
 
SWEET DISHES. 103 
 
 six quarts of water and let them boil six hours, 
 or until they have boiled down to three quarts, 
 if not less. Strain through a sieve while hot. 
 Let it stand all night, and then take off the fat 
 which will be on the top of the mass. Turn the 
 jelly into another dish, and take off the sedi- 
 ment from the bottom. Add a pound of loaf 
 sugar, a pint and a half of old Madeira, (a tea- 
 cupful of brandy if the jelly is to be kept long,) 
 three sliced lemons, deprived of their seeds, and 
 the whites of six eggs beaten to a foam. Stir 
 this altogether in a preserving kettle; after it 
 becomes warm, throw in the egg shells, stir it 
 continually, and let it boil twenty minutes ; after 
 so much boiling, place it where it will keep hot 
 without boiling, turn in a cup of cold water and 
 let it stand a quarter of an hour or twenty 
 minutes. Turn a four-legged stool up-side- 
 down, and tie a square flannel by its corners to 
 each leg. Into the bag thus formed, pour the 
 hot jelly through a thin towel. If it is not too 
 thick it will strain as clear as amber, but if too 
 thick, turn it back into the kettle, pour in another 
 cup of cold water, and the whites of two eggs ; 
 strain it again. It may be put into moulds 
 when hot, but if it is to be put into glasses, it 
 will be clearer if allowed to drop through the 
 flannel bag into the glasses, drop by drop, and to 
 do this, it must stand ill a warm place if the 
 weather is cold. 
 
104 SWEET DISHES. 
 
 Two shins of veal well soaked in cold water, 
 two or three hours, or four pigs' feet well clean- 
 sed, will make very nearly the same quantity of 
 JeUy. 
 
 BLANC-MANGE OF COOPER'S ISINGLASS. 
 
 Two ounces of Cooper's isinglass will thicken 
 three pints of milk ; let it boil five minutes, and 
 strain it through a sieve. This is not so good 
 as Russian isinglass or calf's foot. 
 
 Let two ounces stand fifteen minutes in a 
 pint of cold water; wash it, and boil it five 
 minutes in three pints of water, a pint of wine, 
 three lemons grated and squeezed, a pound of 
 sugar, and the whites and shells of five eggs. 
 Strain it through a jelly-bag like calfs foot 
 jelly. 
 
 CORN-STARCH BLANC-MANGE. 
 
 To a quart of flavored milk or cream, add, 
 while boiling, five spoonfuls of corn-starch ; mix 
 it with part of the milk while cold, and turn it 
 in while the rest of the milk is boiling. Let it 
 boil up once, stirring it briskly the while. Turn 
 it immediately into a mould, or a bowl that has 
 ■keen rinsed in cold water. Eat with sugar and 
 cream. 
 
SWEET DISHES. 105 
 
 ITALIAN CREAM. 
 
 Sweeten three pints of cream or new milk, 
 flavor it to the taste, add a paper of gelatine, 
 and boil it thoroughly. Stirring it all the time, 
 add the yolks of eight eggs, well beaten, strain 
 it into moulds, and place it upon the ice for a 
 few hours. Eat it with sugar and cream. 
 
 CALF'S FOOT BLANC-MANGE. 
 
 One quart of the stock, prepared as for jelly, 
 one pint of cream, flavored to the taste, and 
 half a pound of sugar. Let it boil up once, and 
 strain it into the moulds through a gauze sieve. 
 Cool it upon ice or in cold water. 
 
 RUSSIAN ISINGLASS BLANC-MANGE. 
 
 An ounce of isinglass soaked six hours in 
 warm water, will thicken three pints of milk or 
 cream, sweetened with half a pound of loaf 
 sugar, flavored to the taste. It must not quite 
 come to a boil. Strain it. 
 
 FARINA BLANC-MANGE. 
 
 Boil a quart of milk or cream, flavored and 
 slightly salted ; when it boils, sift in slowly 
 four spoonfuls of the farina. Let the milk stand 
 in a kettle of boiling water, and let the whole 
 now remain over the fire an hour, otherwise it 
 will taste uncooked. Pour it into a mould rinsed 
 in cold water. Eat with sugar and cream. 
 
106 SWEET DISHES. 
 
 TO CLARIFY SUGAR. 
 
 Put half a pint of water to every pound of 
 sugar. Stir in the white of an egg for every 
 five pounds of sugar, and let it boil ; when it 
 rises, put in half a teacup of water and let it 
 boil again, and repeat this process two or three 
 times. Set the kettle aside for fifteen minutes, 
 then take the scum from the top. Pour off tne 
 syrup ; wash the kettle, and put in the fruit you 
 wish to preserve. 
 
 PRESERVED PEACHES. 
 
 Pare the peaches and put a pound of sugar to 
 a pound of peaches. Let them stand one day, 
 then pour off the syrup and clarify it as above, 
 and boil the peaches in it till they are tender. 
 Put the peaches in a jar without breaking them, 
 and when the syrup is cold, pour it over them. 
 The cleave-stones are the most convenient, but 
 the yellow cling-stones are the handsomest. 
 
 TO PRESERVE QUINCES. 
 
 A pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Boil 
 the quinces till tender, then remove the skins, 
 and save them for jelly. Some people pare the 
 quinces and quarter them, and save the uncooked 
 skins and cores for jelly. The skins and cores 
 contain the richest flavor and the most gelatine 
 in both peaches and apples. A less expensive 
 preserve is to take apples and quinces, half and 
 
8WEET DISHES. 107 
 
 half. The flavor of the quince will entirely 
 penetrate the apple. The syrup, which should 
 be made of two gills of the water in which the 
 quinces were boiled to a pound of sugar, will be 
 sufficient for both apples and quinces. 
 
 QUINCE MARMALADE. 
 
 Pare, core, and boil the quinces till they are very 
 soft, mash them with a spoon, then put a pound 
 of brown sugar to a pound of the quince, and 
 boil it slowly for an hour, stirring it. This may 
 also be mixed with apple. 
 
 ANOTHER MARMALADE. 
 
 Grate the uncooked quince, after it is pared, 
 and mix with it powdered white sugar, pound 
 for pound. Pack it in jars, and cover it with a 
 brandied paper and a tight cover. It will keep 
 all winter. This may also be cooked. 
 
 QUINCE JELLY. 
 
 Squeeze the skins and cores of the quinces 
 with Davis' Fruit Presser, and strain the juice 
 into some of the water in which you have boiled 
 your quinces. A pint of water to a pound of 
 loaf sugar is the common measure, but much 
 less sugar will answer. The jelly must not boil 
 more than fifteen or twenty minutes, else the 
 color will be spoiled. (Drop a little of the jelly 
 into cold water, and if it falls to the bottom in a 
 lump, it is done.) 
 
108 SWEET DISHES. 
 
 APPLE JELLY. 
 
 In a family where apples are used freely, apple 
 jelly may be made once a week. Save all the 
 apple parings, cores and seeds, in a jar, after 
 rincing them quickly in cold water, in order to 
 have the satisfaction of knowing that they are 
 clean. Squeeze them, when boiled, with Davis' 
 Fruit Presser, which will effectually extract the 
 juice, but add a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 (more if desired,) to every quart of the extract, 
 and boil it down again. Strain through a fine 
 gauze sieve or through a jelly bag that has been 
 rung out in hot water. This jelly can be flavor- 
 ed with grated lemon or juice. 
 
 ANOTHER. 
 
 Boil a peck of nicely washed fresh wine apples 
 in a large boiler till perfectly soft. Mash them 
 well, and add half a pound of clarified brown 
 sugar to every pound of the juice strained out 
 from the mass, and boil and strain again through 
 a fine sieve or a jelly bag. 
 
 TO PRESERVE CRANBERRIES. 
 
 Boil a pound of the fruit very soft in a little 
 water, not allowing it to burn. Then add nearly 
 a pound of sugar and boil it five minutes, closely 
 covered. 
 
SWEET DISHES. 
 
 109 
 
 CRANBERRY JELLY. 
 
 Jelly may be made of cranberries by boiling, 
 straining, and adding a pound of sugar to a pint 
 of juice or pulp. 
 
 TO PRESERVE PLUMS. 
 
 Boil the fruit gently in the syrup for thirty or 
 forty minutes. Put equal quantities of fruit and 
 sugar. After three or four days, set the jar into 
 a kettle of cold water and let it come to a boil, 
 or put it into a brick oven after the bread is taken 
 out, and leave it there an hour or two. Some 
 plums require a great deal of boiling. 
 
 TO PRESERVE CHERRIES. 
 
 They are to be boiled even longer than plums, 
 and some persons scald and bury the bottles 
 in the cellar. Large English cherries are the 
 best. 
 
 TO PRESERVE PINE-APPLES. 
 
 Pine-apple requires an equal weight of loaf 
 sugar. They must be pared nicely, sliced, and 
 covered with the sugar, and left standing a day 
 or night. In the morning, take out the apples 
 and boil the syrup. "When it simmers, restore 
 the apple and let it boil fifteen minutes ; remove 
 the apple and let the syrup boil longer, and 
 when both are cool, turn the syrup over the 
 apple. White ginger boiled in the syrup is an 
 improvement. 
 
110 SWEET DISHES. 
 
 TO PRESERVE TOMATOES. 
 
 Take tomatoes that are ripe, but not soft. 
 Skin them in boiling water, weigh them and 
 allow a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit ; 
 make the syrup with as little water as possible. 
 Slice a lemon for every four pounds of fruit; 
 throw the slices into the syrup, having carefully 
 removed the seeds. When the syrup is clear, 
 lay in the tomatoes carefully, and boil moder- 
 ately nearly an hour. A few pieces of white 
 ginger, boiled in the syrup, will improve it. 
 
 TOMATO FIGS. 
 
 Take smooth tomatoes, and to eight pounds, 
 allow three pounds of sugar. When skinned, 
 put them with the sugar and boil them till they 
 are thoroughly penetrated by it. Take them 
 out, press them flat, and dry them on dishes in 
 the sun. Sprinkle them occasionally with a 
 little sugar. When dry, pack them in boxes, 
 sprinkling each layer with sugar. Boil down 
 the remaining syrup for future use, or use it for 
 preserving tomatoes. 
 
 TO PRESERVE PEARS. 
 
 Pare them, weigh them, boil them whole, if 
 sound, in a little water, till quite soft. Take 
 them out, and put half a pint of the water to a 
 pound of sugar, and put in a pound of fruit for 
 every pound of sugar ; boil them in the syrup 
 
SWEET DISHES. Ill 
 
 half an hour; lay the pears in ajar, and when 
 the syrup is cool pour it over them. Brown 
 sugar, if clean, answers very well for pears. 
 
 TO PRESERVE CITRON MELON. 
 
 Cut the melons in strips, rings, or whatever 
 shape you choose, and remove the inside. Lay 
 them in strong salt and water for two or three 
 days. Soak them in fair water, frequently 
 changed for the next twenty-four hours, then in 
 alum-water for an hour, then boil till tender, and 
 lay them back into the alum water. A pound 
 of loaf sugar should be allowed to a pound of 
 fruit, and boil slices of lemon in the syrup, or a 
 piece of white ginger. When the melon is cool, 
 boil it gently for half an hour in the syrup. 
 
 Water melon rinds may be preserved in the 
 same way, but neither are fit for use for several 
 months. 
 
 TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES. 
 
 The strawberries must not be too ripe ; weigh 
 equal quantities of fruit and sugar, and sprinkle 
 half the sugar over layers of fruit, and let it 
 stand all night. Next day make a syrup of the 
 remainder of the sugar and red currant juice, 
 (not water,) a pint to every three pounds of fruit, 
 and simmer the fruit in this for half an hour. 
 If you add another quarter of a pound of sugar 
 to every pound of fruit, seal and bury the bot- 
 
112 SWEET DISHES. 
 
 ties ; the strawberries will keep several years, 
 and retain their flavor. 
 
 STRAWBERRY JAM. 
 
 Three pounds of sugar to two quarts of fruit. 
 Bruise and boil ten minutes, stirring briskly. 
 
 GRAPE JAM. 
 
 Boil soft and strain through a sieve. Allow 
 a pound of sugar to a pound of pulp. Boil the 
 fruit in the syrup twenty minutes, stirring it fre- 
 quently. 
 
 TOMATO JAM. 
 
 Skin and strain the fruit and boil it with sugar, 
 pound for pound. Boil two lemons, rind and 
 pulp, for every pound of tomato. 
 
 RASPBERRY JAM. 
 
 Pick carefully, for worms. Weigh equal quan- 
 tities of fruit and sugar, and after boiling till 
 the juice is almost gone, add the sugar, and let 
 it simmer slowly, stirring it steadily. 
 
 PINE APPLE JAM. 
 
 Grate the pine apples, and put a pound of 
 fruit to three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Boil 
 ten minutes, stirring carefully. 
 
 CURRANT JELLY. 
 
 A pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Pound, 
 
SWEET DISHES. 113 
 
 sift, and heat the sugar hot, then pour it into the 
 boiling juice, which must be strained through a 
 sieve from the skins and seeds. Let it boil only 
 one minute longer. This may be made without 
 boiling the juice or the sugar. Put the glasses 
 in the sun, near a window, for a few days before 
 covering them. All these fruits may be pre- 
 served without boiling, by packing them in 
 bottles or jars with equal weights of sugar, and 
 putting in alternate layers of sugar and fruit. 
 The fruit must not be too ripe, and the sugar 
 must be very finely sifted. 
 
 Fruits may also be preserved in water without 
 sugar, by putting them into bottles, setting the 
 bottles into a boiler of water and letting them 
 come gradually to a boil. Have melted bees- 
 wax and rosin ready in equal quantities, and as 
 soon as the water begins to boil, take out the 
 bottles, throw a cloth over them to prevent any 
 draught of air from cooling them off, and cover 
 the cork with the beeswax and rosin as soon 
 as possible. If a piece of bladder, wet in 
 warm water, has been tied over the cork tightly 
 before the bottles were put into the cold water 
 to boil, it will be much better. If a coat of 
 mould forms at the top of the bottle, it will do 
 no harm, but rather be useful, as it will effectu- 
 ally exclude the air. 
 
 When the bottles are opened, this mould must 
 
 8 
 
114 SWEET DISHES. 
 
 be carefully removed, and the fruit may be 
 stewed with sugar, like fresh fruit. 
 
 Fruit is often put into tin cans and sealed 
 with rosin as soon as the water boils in the 
 boiler. This mode of putting up fruit is prac- 
 tised largely at the West. 
 
 ARROW-ROOT CREAM. 
 
 Put a table-spoonful of arrow-root into a tea- 
 cup of cold water and let it settle. Pour off the 
 the water and then stir it into a quart of boiling 
 milk or cream, flavored with the grated peel of a 
 lemon. Stir it well till it is cold, that it may 
 not be lumpy. Eat it with preserved or stewed 
 fruit. 
 
 CRANBERRY AND RICE JELLY. 
 
 Boil, wash and strain the fruit. Mix in as 
 much ground rice as will thicken to a jelly when 
 boiled. Stir gently while boiling, having sweet- 
 ened to your taste. Put in a mould, and eat 
 with cream. 
 
 RICE BLANC-MANGE. 
 
 Wash a large teacup of rice in many waters, 
 put it into a saucepan of cold milk, and add 
 two cupfuls of rich cream when it boils. Boil it 
 till it is dry, and pour it into a mould. It will 
 turn out, when cold, in good shape. 
 
 It is better to boil it dry in a covered tin pail 
 
SWEET DISHES. 115 
 
 that stands in a kettle of salted boiling water, 
 to prevent it from burning. 
 
 PINK CREAM. 
 
 Squeeze and strain a pint of ripe red currant 
 juice upon half a pound of powdered sugar, fla- 
 vored with the juice of one lemon. c Stir this 
 into a quart of cream, and whisk it till it is quite 
 thick. It maybe made with currant jelly. Serve 
 it in jelly glasses. 
 
 Raspberry and strawberry cream may be made 
 thus. 
 
 WHITE LEMON CREAM. 
 
 Boil the peel of the lemon in a quart of cream ; 
 strain it and thicken with the yolks of six and 
 the whites of eight eggs well beaten. Sweeten 
 with loaf-sugar ; stir it till nearly cold, and put 
 it into glasses. 
 
 LEMON OR ORANGE CUSTARD. 
 
 Put three ounces of sugar into a deep dish, 
 and strain upon it the juice of four lemons. Boil 
 the grated peel of one lemon and two more 
 ounces of sugar in a quart of cream, and pour 
 it over the lemon peel and sugar. Orange will 
 require less sugar. 
 
 CALF'S FOOT BLANC-MANGE. 
 
 Put four calf's feet into four quarts of water ; 
 
116 SWEET DISHES. 
 
 boil it away to one quart, strain it, and set it 
 aside. After it is cool, all the fat should be 
 taken off, and the jelly cut out of the pan with? 
 out the sediment. Add a quart of new milk, 
 sweetened to the taste with loaf sugar and 
 flavored with lemon-peel or peach leaves, to the 
 jelly, and boil it ten minutes. Strain it through 
 a fine sieve and stir it till it is cold. Put it into 
 moulds. This is an excellent blanc-mange for 
 the table, eaten with cream, and innocent also 
 for the sick. 
 
 ISINGLASS BLANC-MANGE. 
 
 Take an ounce and a half of calf's foot isin- 
 glass, wash it, and soak it all night in a quart of 
 milk. Flavor it in the morning according to the 
 taste with lemons, peach leaves or rose water, 
 and boil it slowly for half an hour. Strain it 
 upon a teacup of crushed sugar. 
 
 IRISH FLUMMERY. 
 
 Take the chaff of oatmeal and soak it for 
 twenty -four hours. Squeeze the chaff and strain it 
 through a fine sieve. Let it settle for about four 
 hours, then decant the water and put on clean 
 water, and renew this process two or three times. 
 It will take two or three days to bleach it suffi- 
 ciently. After it has been soaked in this man- 
 ner, in several waters, take a quart of the meal 
 and put it into a skillet with fresh water, mak- 
 
SWEET DISHES. 1 L7 
 
 ing a thin gruel of it. Boil it two hours. It 
 will be lumpy at first, but must be well stirred, 
 and after a while it will become smooth, and 
 then thicken like corn-starch. Add salt to the 
 taste, and eat it with milk or cream, and sugar, 
 if liked. It is very delicious. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Vegetables should be gathered early, while 
 the dew is still upon them. After being well 
 washed, such vegetables as do not have too 
 strong a flavor, like cabbage and carrot, should 
 be laid in cold water until they are ready for 
 boiling. Then take them out and boil the same 
 water, and when it is at the boiling point throw 
 in the vegetable. 
 
 PEAS OR BEANS 
 
 Should be boiled in barely water enough to 
 cover them. Boil peas about half an hour, and 
 when tender, add cream and salt. The Ger- 
 mans crack the pods crosswise, peel off a tough 
 membrane that lines the inside, and which comes 
 off readily, and boil the remainder with the peas. 
 It is even sweeter than the pea itself, and a great 
 addition as well as economy, if carefully freed 
 from the tough membrane. Peas should not be 
 shelled long before boiling, and shouM not be 
 washed after they are shelled, because the little 
 
 [118] 
 
VEGETABLES. 119 
 
 point that unites them with the pod, and which 
 contains much of their sweetness, is thereby- 
 washed away. Wash the pods before shelling. 
 Shelled beans should be prepared in the same 
 way. Boil these an hour and a half, when fresh. 
 Soak them over night when winter-kept. 
 
 ASPARAGUS 
 
 Should be planted very deep, and cut as soon 
 as it appears at the surface of the ground. That 
 part which is below the surface is the most ten- 
 der. The Germans think we waste asparagus 
 sadly by not planting it deep. Boil asparagus 
 in as little water as possible, with salt, half an 
 hour. When it is done, dip toasted bread in the 
 water, lay the asparagus, (which should be tied 
 up for boiling,) upon the bread, add cream and 
 a little flour to the boiling liquid, and turn it 
 over the whole. 
 
 If cold asparagus is cut up very fine, and put 
 into a saucepan containing four or five well- 
 beaten eggs, and a little salt, cream and flour, 
 and stirred till it thickens, it will make a very 
 nice dish. Pepper can be added, if desired. Pour 
 it upon toasted bread, in a hot dish. 
 
 This is sometimes put inside the crust of a 
 loaf of bread, from which the crumb has been 
 removed. A few sticks reserved to ornament 
 the top of the loaf will improve the looks of the 
 dish. 
 
120 VEGETABLES. 
 
 POTATOES 
 
 That are new should be put into boiling water 
 with their skins on, with considerable salt. 
 When the skin cracks they are done enough, 
 and should then be peeled and restored to the 
 hot kettle without water, and covered with 
 a cloth, to allow the water to evaporate from 
 them. It is better that they should be broken, 
 than sent to the table whole and watery. Old 
 potatoes should be peeled and allowed to stand 
 several hours in cold water, then thrown into 
 boiling water, and served as above. 
 
 PARSNIPS 
 
 That have remained in the ground till March, 
 are very tender. Boil them half an hour. Scrape 
 the outside and split them, and dress them with 
 a little thickened cream and salt, or brown them 
 on the griddle after boiling. 
 
 CARROTS 
 
 Should be soaked in cold water before boil- 
 ing. Boil them three quarters of an hour in 
 summer, an hour and a half in winter, in a good 
 deal of fresh water. Turn off most of the water 
 when tender. Mash and dress them with cream 
 and flour. 
 
 Carrots make excellent puddings in the pro- 
 portions of one fourth carrot and three fourths 
 grated bread. It is also an excellent flavor for 
 soups. 
 
VEGETABLES. 121 
 
 THE OYSTER PLANT 
 
 Should be washed and scraped, and put into 
 boiling water. When tender, dip it in bread 
 crumbs moistened in cream and beaten egg, 
 and brown it on a griddle. 
 
 SUMMER SQUASH 
 
 Should be boiled whole, in a little bag-. Put in 
 boiling water and boil three quarters of an hour. 
 Press it in a tin dish while still in the bag, to 
 press out the water. Dress it with salt and a 
 little thickened milk or cream. 
 
 WINTER SQUASH 
 
 Must be cut in pieces, but do not remove the 
 yellow fringe, as that is the sweetest part. It is 
 best to steam it, and if it is watery, press it in a 
 cloth.. Dress it with salt and thickened milk or 
 cream. Strain it for pies or puddings, through 
 a coarse sieve. 
 
 ONIONS 
 
 Should be boiled half tender in water, the 
 water be turned off, and then boiled twenty 
 minutes more in hot milk and water. Onions 
 are doubtless very healthful, but not to be eaten 
 in good society. 
 
 SPINACH 
 
 Should be boiled ten or twelve minutes in a 
 
122 VEGETABLES. 
 
 muslin bag. Use a good deal of water, because 
 it has a strong, bitter taste. Dress it with cream 
 or thickened milk, like parsnips or carrots. 
 Slice hard boiled eggs and lay over it. 
 
 GREENS. 
 
 When greens, such greens as beet-tops, turnip- 
 tops, mustard-tops, cowslips, dandelions, &c. are 
 sufficiently boiled, they will sink to the bottom 
 of the kettle. 
 
 CABBAGE 
 
 Should be boiled an hour, and carefully 
 skimmed. It is very nutritive. Dress with cream 
 or thickened milk and a dash of vinegar. 
 
 CAULIFLOWERS 
 
 Should be soaked an hour or two in cold 
 water, then boiled in milk and water half an 
 hour. If very strong, pour off the water when 
 they are half done, and add fresh water. 
 
 BROCCOLI 
 
 Should be cooked in the same manner. 
 
 GREEN CORN 
 
 Should be cut from the cobs, the cobs boiled 
 half an hour, then taken out, and the corn boiled 
 in the same water. Thicken with a little milk 
 or cream, and flour. 
 
VEGETABLES. 12*3 
 
 TO MAKE SUCCOTASH. 
 
 Throw a few shelled beans into the water with 
 the cobs. Boil them an hour, then remove the 
 cobs, and put in the corn. Use as little water 
 as possible, and when it is nearly boiled thicken 
 with a little cream. 
 
 CORN OYSTERS 
 
 May be made by grating sweet corn into a 
 dish, adding an egg, well beaten, to a pint of 
 the corn, half a gill of cream thickened with a 
 teacup of flour, and a teaspoonful of salt. Mix 
 it well together, and brown spoonfuls on the 
 griddle as if they were oysters. 
 
 BEETS 
 
 Should be nicely washed, but the fibres and 
 excrescences should not be rubbed off. Boil 
 young beets an hour, but in winter two or three, 
 according to their size. When tender, remove 
 the skin with the fingers, holding the beet under 
 cold water for a moment. Dress them with 
 cream, or merely with salt and vinegar. 
 
 EGG PLANT 
 Should be cut in slices, sprinkled with salt, 
 dipped in eggs and crumbs, and browned on the 
 griddle. 
 
 MUSHROOMS 
 
 Should be cut in small pieces and boiled for 
 
124 VEGETABLES. 
 
 ten minutes. Thicken a little cream with flour, 
 add salt, let it boil up once again, and serve like 
 stewed oysters. Choose those which have red 
 gills, and cut off that portion of the stalk which 
 grew in the earth. A certain species of poison- 
 ous toadstool resembles mushrooms, and must 
 be carefully avoided. Flavor with lemon juice. 
 
 SALADS 
 
 Should be gathered early, before the dew is 
 off, picked, and laid in cold water, in ice if pos- 
 sible. Cut fine and dress with sugar, cream, 
 salt, and vinegar. Another dressing may be 
 made of the yolks of three eggs, boiled twelve 
 minutes, mashed, and mixed with a spoonful of 
 olive oil ; add powdered sugar, salt, and vinegar. 
 Garnish the tops with the whites of the eggs cut 
 in rings. 
 
 MACARONI 
 
 Should be carefully picked over, as there are 
 sometimes insects inside of it. Boil it in cold 
 water slowly for half an hour, then add milk, 
 and boil it a quarter of an hour more. Dress it 
 with grated cheese after it is put into the dish in 
 which it is to be served. Heat a shovel red hot, 
 and brown it by holding it closely over it, or set 
 it into a moderate oven a little while. 
 
 TOMATOES. 
 
 Should be laid in a dish, scalded with boiling 
 
VEGETABLES. 125 
 
 water, skinned, boiled in their own juice, with a 
 little salt, until tender, then dressed with bread 
 crumbs, a little cream, and sugar. 
 
 They may be baked, by being laid into a bak- 
 ing-dish in layers, alternately with bread crumbs, 
 wet in cream, and sprinkled with salt and sugar. 
 Bake an hour. 
 
 If tomatoes are thoroughly scalded and put 
 into bottles, tins or jars, boiling hot, covered 
 with paper, and then with a coating of nice 
 beef-tallow, corked and sealed, they will keep a 
 year. Glass is safer than tin, as the latter some- 
 times contracts verdigris. 
 
 TOMATO OMELETTE 
 
 May be made by pealing and chopping four 
 tomatoes, beating up six eggs, and mixing with 
 two table-spoonfuls of flour. Stir this altogether 
 and fry on the soapstone griddle. 
 
 OYSTER OMELETTE. 
 
 Prepare the egg and flour as above, chop 
 a dozen oysters, and stir them into the eggs as 
 above directed. 
 
 BAKED BEANS. 
 
 Soak over night, parboil in the same water, 
 add salt and cream, and bake two hours. 
 
126 VEGETABLES. 
 
 DROPPED EGGS 
 
 Are more tender than eggs cooked in any other 
 mode. Have a pan of boiling water ready, and 
 break the eggs into a cup separately, and drop 
 them into the water, carefully, that the yolk may 
 not break. When the white is sufficiently cooked 
 to be taken out whole, the egg is done enough. 
 Dish them on toasted bread, dipped in hot water, 
 and sprinkle on a little salt. 
 
 Eggs roasted half an hour in hot ashes are 
 excellent. 
 
 KOL-CANNON. 
 
 The potato is deficient in gluten, and there- 
 fore not very nutritive. The cabbage is unusu- 
 ally rich in gluten. Boil the two, and the mix- 
 ture is as healthful and nutritious as wheaten 
 bread. Mash the potatoes and chop the cabbage, 
 add salt and cream, or milk thickened with a 
 little flour. Too much potato or rice renders 
 people pot-bellied, but kol-cannon will remedy 
 that effect of a too watery diet. The cream 
 will add the requisite fat, which will correct the 
 too constipating effect of the gluten, of which 
 the cabbage contains thirty parts in a hundred, 
 when the leaf is dried. Cauliflower contains 
 sixty-four per cent, and would make a still more 
 nutritive kol-cannon, which is an Irish dish.* 
 
 * See Dr. Johnston's Chemistry of Life. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 MEATS. 
 BEEF. — ROASTING PIECES. 
 
 The best is the sirloin ; then the first three 
 ribs ; if the latter are kept long enough to be 
 tender and then boned, they are nearly as good 
 as the sirloin. The round is the best piece for 
 corning. 
 
 The best beef-steak is from the inner part of 
 the sirloin, the next best from the ribs. 
 
 When beef is to be kept any length of time, it 
 should be wiped every day. In summer it 
 should be dusted with pepper and salt to keep off 
 the flies. If at all tainted, wash it in cold water, 
 then in strong camomile tea, and salt it again, 
 if not to be used immediately. Roughly pound- 
 ed charcoal rubbed over it will also remove the 
 taint. 
 
 When you choose meat, take that which has 
 a fine grain and white fat. 
 
 Twenty minutes of time to each pound of 
 meat is the rule for roasting. Experience will 
 determine whether a little more or less time is 
 necessary in a given oven. Put boiling water 
 
 [127] 
 
1^8 MEATS. 
 
 into the meat pan, and let the oven be quite hot 
 when it is put in to roast, otherwise it will not 
 be tender. When nearly done, salt, flour, and 
 baste it from dripping-pan ; not before. 
 
 TO PRESS BEEF. 
 
 Take the bones from the brisket, or flank, or 
 the thin part of the ribs. Salt it well, add a 
 little sugar, and sprinkle with a little summer 
 savory, let it lie a week, then stew it in scarcely 
 sufficient water to cover it. When tender, roll 
 it tightly in a cloth, and press it with a heavy 
 weight till cold. 
 
 Boil and press a calf's head in the same way. 
 
 BOILED BEEF. 
 
 The best piece is the round, the next best, the 
 edge-bone. Put it into boiling water, otherwise 
 it will lose all its juiciness. Ten pounds of beef 
 will require three hours boiling. 
 
 BOILED CORN BEEF. 
 
 Soak the beef for half an hour in lukewarm 
 w T ater, and then put it into boiling water. 
 
 BEEF SOUP. 
 
 Cut away the fat, chop the beef fine, put it in 
 an equal weight of cold water, let it stand one 
 or two hours, then let it simmer a long time, and 
 come slowly to a boil. Boil the bones separately 
 
MEATS. 
 
 129 
 
 in a little water, and add it afterwards, strained. 
 If the beef is rich, add only salt and vegetables, 
 if liked. Carrot or tomato give a fine flavoring. 
 If it is beef from a shank, mix flour and cream, 
 and pour it in while the soup is boiling. This 
 process will extract more nourishment from meat 
 than any other mode of cooking it. If much 
 soup is made thus, add the thickening and vege- 
 tables to only so much as is needed for one din- 
 ner, and set the rest away till wanted. It will 
 not keep so well after flour and milk, or cream 
 are added. One shank of beef will make soup 
 enough for five dinners in a family of six per- 
 sons. Do not strain it from the meat, or if such 
 a mode is required for the sake of gentility, save 
 the meat for hashes. It will be pretty good 
 hashed in gravy, or with cream, but will have 
 lost much of its nutritive property, of course. 
 (See Chapter II.) 
 
 BROILED STEAK. 
 
 Ten or fifteen minutes is sufficient time for 
 cooking steak, which is best when cut from the 
 inside of the sirloin, or from the ribs. No butter 
 is necessary, if it is cooked upon a soap-stone 
 griddle, rubbed with salt. It will be sufficiently 
 juicy if not cooked too long. Sprinkle salt upon 
 it when it is quite done. Let each one put on 
 butter to suit himself, when it is no longer hot 
 enough to melt it. Cook it rapidly. 
 9 
 
130 MEATS. 
 
 MUTTON. 
 
 Mutton is best from August till January. 
 Cook it till it is done. It is better after being 
 kept several days. Ffteen or twenty minutes 
 should be allowed to the pound. Baste it with 
 salt and water till nearly done, then add flour to 
 the basting and let it brown. Put paper over 
 the fat parts. 
 
 The hind quarter or haunch is best for roast- 
 ing, but the leg, loin, neck, and breast are also 
 good for roasting. 
 
 The leg is good for boiling. Cut off the 
 shank bone and save it for soup. Nine pounds 
 will require three hours of boiling. Wash, but 
 do not soak it. Put it into boiling water. Save 
 the liquor for shank soup. Serve it with qaper- 
 sauce and cream. 
 
 MUTTON BROTH. 
 
 Take the liquor in which the leg was boiled, 
 put in the shank while cold, thicken it with rice, 
 and season with parsley. 
 
 A STUFFED LOIN OF MUTTON. 
 
 Take off the skin ; bone it neatly ; stuff the 
 inside where the bones have been removed ; roll it 
 up tight ; skewer the flap, and tie it down with 
 twine. Put the outside skin over it till nearly 
 roasted, and then remove it that the mutton may 
 brown. Put boiling water into the dripping-pan, 
 
MEATS. 
 
 131 
 
 and let the oven be hot; cover with paper. 
 Currant jelly is good with mutton. 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS. 
 
 . Cut chops from the loin or the best end of a 
 neck of mutton ; take off the fat, dip them in 
 beaten egg, strew over them grated bread, sea- 
 soned with salt and finely mixed parsley; fry 
 them on the soap-stone griddle, well rubbed with 
 salt to prevent burning, or broil them over coals, 
 and lay them in a hot dish. 
 
 LAMB 
 
 Should be roasted until the gravy that drops 
 is white. The fore-quarter is the best part for a 
 roast. The leg is good boiled or roasted. Two 
 hours will roast the fore-quarter well. 
 
 LAMB DRESSED WITH RICE. 
 
 Half roast a small fore-quarter, cut it into 
 steaks, season with salt, lay them in a dish, 
 and pour in a little water. Boil a pound of 
 rice with a little mace ; strain it, and stir in half 
 a cup of cream, or more, according to the quan- 
 tity of meat ; add the yolks of four eggs well 
 beaten, and a little salt ; cover the lamb with 
 the rice, and with a feather put over it a little 
 egg yolk, reserved for the purpose. Bake it in 
 an oven until it is of a light brown color. 
 
132 MEATS. 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 The loin is the best part, and requires three 
 hours roasting. Paper the kidney. 
 
 Both fillet and shoulder should be stuffed 
 before roasting. 
 
 The neck of veal makes fine cutlets. Cook 
 like mutton chops. 
 
 "When boiled or stewed, veal must be care- 
 fully skimmed. 
 
 The knuckle is best stewed. Season with 
 sweet herbs. 
 
 The knuckle is also good boiled. Serve pars- 
 ley in thickened cream and flour, well salted for 
 gravy. Save the liquor for veal broth. 
 
 VENISON. 
 
 This is the most easily digested of all meats. 
 It should be kept for a fortnight after it is killed, 
 to be tender. A haunch of twelve pounds will 
 be well roasted in four hours. Baste it with 
 cream, as it is not fat. 
 
 VENISON STEAKS 
 
 May be cooked like mutton chops, or like 
 simple beef steaks. 
 
 A BEEF PIE. 
 
 Cut cold roast beef or steak into thin slices, 
 put a layer of it into a pie-dish, shake over it a 
 little flour and salt; cut up a tomato if you have 
 
MEATS. 133 
 
 one, or if not, an onion ; then lay another layer 
 and so on. If you have any beef gravy, put 
 it in, if not, water enough to make a little 
 gravy. Have a dozen potatoes well boiled and 
 mashed, add half a cup of cream and a little 
 salt. Spread it over the pie an inch thick, as a 
 crust. Beat up an egg, and spread it over 
 with a nice feather. Bake it about twenty-five 
 minutes. 
 
 BEEP OLIVES. 
 
 Take a slice of beef (from the round if possi- 
 ble) of the thickness of an inch ; pound it out 
 till it is only half an inch thick ; cut it into four 
 inch squares. Make some dressing of chopped 
 beef, bread crumbs, cream, salt, and sweet mar- 
 joram ; mix it with an egg, and sew it up in the 
 bits of steak in the shape of an olive ; lay them 
 in a tin pan with a cup of brown stock, (or water 
 in which meat has been boiled,) and set them in 
 the oven. When half done, bake them with the 
 liquid. Cook them twenty minutes. Put them 
 into a dish ; add a little cream and flour to the 
 gravy. While it is boiling, pour on a little boil- 
 ing water, and if you have it, add a little soy or 
 tomato catsup. Let this boil once and turn it 
 over the olives when you are ready to send them 
 to the table. 
 
 TO STUFF A BRISKET OF BEEF. 
 
 Make a dressing like that for beef olives, and 
 
134 MEATS. 
 
 put it in between the fat and lean, and sew it up 
 tight; flour a cloth, pin the beef very tightly 
 into it, and boil it five or six hours if it weighs 
 as much as eight pounds, not so long if less. 
 When it is done, take off the cloth, lay it into a 
 dish and press it with a heavy weight until it is 
 cold. Cut it in thin slices and eat it cold. 
 
 BEEF BOUILLI. 
 
 Put part of a brisket of beef into a saucepan 
 and cover it with cold water. Skim it as it boils ; 
 cut up two carrots, two turnips, and if agreeable, 
 an onion, in dice form. Let it simmer three 
 hours. Add a tumbler full of red wine, and a 
 table-spoonful of soy or tomato catsup. Let it 
 simmer another hour. When done, stir in a 
 little flour, milk and egg into the gravy, give it 
 one boil, and turn it into the dish with the 
 meat. 
 
 SWEETBREADS. 
 
 Dip them in cream, boil them fifteen minutes 
 in water, drop them into cold water for ten 
 minutes; take them out, dredge a little flour 
 upon them, pour on half a pint of hot water 
 with a little mace and salt in it, and brown them 
 twenty minutes in a tin dish in the oven. Dish 
 the sweet breads, pour over them the gravy 
 thickened with cream and flour, and boiled up 
 once. Garnish the dish with sliced lemon and 
 parsley. 
 
MEATS. 
 
 135 
 
 TRIPE. 
 
 Cut the honey-comb part into square pieces of 
 any size desired, wash it in salt and water, wipe 
 it, dip it in batter or in eggs mixed with crumbs 
 and cream, brown it on the griddle, well rubbed 
 down with salt. Eat it with oyster sauce, or 
 cream sauce and eggs. 
 
 TO SALT MEAT. 
 
 If for immediate use, rub the pieces with dry 
 salt, lay them in a tub and cover them closely. 
 Turn the pieces every day, and it will be good 
 to eat in a week. It will keep six weeks. This 
 receipt will answer for beef and mutton. 
 
 TO PICKLE BEEF. 
 
 Four gallons of water to two pounds of brown 
 sugar, and six pounds of salt ; boil it twenty 
 minutes, taking off the scum as it rises. The 
 following day pour it over the meat which has 
 been packed into the pickling tub. Pour oft*, 
 boil, and skim this brine every two months, 
 adding each time three ounces of brown sugar 
 and a pound of common salt. (The meat must 
 be sprinkled with the salt, and the next day 
 wiped dry, before pouring the pickle over it, with 
 which it should always be completely covered. 
 Use fine salt.) 
 
 When meats are warmed over, the liquor 
 should be first prepared. It may be soup stock, 
 
136 MEATS. 
 
 or water and milk, salted ; then put in the meat, 
 otherwise it loses all its juices and tenderness. 
 
 SOUPS. 
 Vegetable soup. Two turnips, four carrots, 
 four potatoes, one cabbage, one parsnip, parsley 
 or celery ; chop them all fine, add a spoonful of 
 rice, and three quarts of water, and boil them 
 three hours. Strain through a cullender, let it 
 all boil up again, and add a pint of milk or 
 cream, thickened with flour. 
 
 SPLIT PEA SOUP. 
 
 Soak the peas over night, and in the morning 
 add water until there are four quarts to a pound 
 and a half of split peas ; boil till they will press 
 through a sieve. Return the soup to the kettle, 
 with the addition of a small piece of corned beef, 
 a head of celery, salt, and a very little pepper, (if 
 desired.) 
 
 MOCK-TURTLE SOUP. 
 
 Scald and clean a calf's head. Boil it with 
 the skin on slowly for an hour, in about a gallon 
 of water. When cold, cut up the meat into 
 pieces an inch square. Stew in cream and 
 water, two pounds of beef and two of veal, with 
 two ounces of green sage, and five onions, (if 
 desired). Add these to the liquor, also the bones 
 of the head, a handful of parsley, a salt-spoon 
 
MEATS. 137 
 
 of mace, the grated rind of a lemon, and sim- 
 mer all for three or four hours. Strain it, and 
 when cold, remove the fat. Restore it to the 
 clean kettle, add half a pint of Madeira or 
 claret, and thicken with a cup of rich cream, 
 mixed with a table-spoonful of flour. Just be- 
 fore serving, add eight or ten hard boiled eggs 
 and the juice of a lemon. Boil the brains for 
 ten minutes, put them in cold water to cool, 
 chop and mix them with four or five spoonfuls 
 of grated bread, salt, thyme, and two eggs, roll 
 them of the size of an egg, and brown them in 
 the oven, and throw them into the soup. 
 
 Very good mock-turtle soup may be made of 
 calf's feet, four feet boiled in two quarts of 
 water, and seasoned as above, all injurious in- 
 gredients common in cookery books being left 
 out. 
 
 PIGEON SOUP. 
 
 Of eight pigeons, cut up two and put them 
 into four quarts of cold water, with the necks, 
 livers and pinions of the rest ; when they have 
 simmered and boiled till the substance is ex- 
 tracted, strain out the soup, then restore it to 
 the kettle with a handful of parsley, a handful 
 of spinach, chopped and mixed with a pint of 
 cream, in which a handful of bread crumbs have 
 been boiled. Truss and season the pigeons with 
 salt and a little mace, and boil them in the soup 
 till they are tender. 
 
138 MEATS. 
 
 GUMBO SOUP. 
 
 Boil a shin of veal and a chicken in four 
 quarts of water, add the liquor of three quarts 
 of oysters, two carrots, two turnips ; shred the 
 chicken and veal when tender ; stir in three 
 table-spoonfuls of gumbo, mixed in water or 
 in milk, just before it is all done, and drop in 
 the oysters, but do not let the soup boil after the 
 gumbo and oysters are put in. Salt it to the 
 taste, and add mace if liked. 
 
 Soups may be made of almost any materials 
 that are good cooked together, but remember the 
 main principle, which is to lose none of the nutri- 
 tive properties of such materials, vegetable or ani- 
 mal, by soaking them out in cold water and 
 throwing the water away. Wash everything 
 clean, and then use the water in which the 
 materials lie, for the soup. The longer meat is 
 soaked in cold water the more of its nutritive 
 properties will be extracted, as they dissolve best 
 while the water is cold. Simmer and boil slowly, 
 unless for beef tea, which should be boiled as 
 rapidly as possible, and then strained. 
 
 calf's head. 
 Soak it in cold water for an hour, take out 
 the brains, scrape the head, pin it tightly into a 
 floured cloth, and boil it in six quarts of water. 
 Tie the brains up separately in a cloth. Boil 
 the head two hours, then add lights, liver, and 
 
MEATS. 139 
 
 brains, and boil two hours more. The large 
 bones will now come out of the head. Put into 
 a quart of the boiling liquor half the liver chop- 
 ped fine, the brains mashed with a spoon, a pint 
 of cream, thickened with half a teacup of flour, 
 salt, sweet marjoram, and a little mace, and boil 
 them all together. Then add the juice of two 
 lemons, or two spoonfuls of vinegar. Skin the 
 tongue, divide the liver and head, pour part of 
 the gravy over them, and put the rest in a butter 
 boat. Scraped horse-radish and sliced lemons 
 are the garnishings for this dish. 
 
 calf's feet. 
 Boil four feet in six quarts of water for two 
 hours ; take out the large bones, split the feet, 
 lay them into a saucepan ; mix half a pint of 
 cream with flour, mace, half a teacupful of wine, 
 the juice of a lemon, and two teacups of the 
 liquor in which the feet were boiled. The rest 
 of the liquor may be used for jelly. 
 
 Dip it in cream, and bake it three quarters of 
 an hour, basting it frequently with the cream 
 and water. Boil some macaroni in milk and 
 water, lay it around the dish, and put the liver 
 in the middle. Veal stock is better than water, 
 for boiling calf's head. 
 
140 MEATS. 
 
 SEASONS FOR DIFFERENT KINDS OF MEAT. 
 
 Beef, — from January to May. Pack beef in 
 
 March. 
 Veal, — from 1st May till June 30th. 
 Lamb, — 1st of June to 1st of September. 
 Mutton, — February to May. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 POULTRY. 
 TO CHOOSE POULTRY. 
 
 In a young turkey, the toes and bill are soft. 
 
 A young goose is plump in the breast, and 
 the fat white and soft. The feet are yellow, the 
 web of the foot thin and tender. Boil it an hour 
 before roasting. 
 
 Young ducks are very tender under the wings, 
 and the web of the foot is transparent. 
 
 The best fowls have yellow legs ; if very old, 
 the feet look stiff and worn. 
 
 Pigeons should be quite fresh, the breast plump 
 and fat. 
 
 TO PREPARE FOWLS FOR COOKING. 
 
 Pick out the pin feathers, take out the gall-bag 
 without breaking, singe the hairs over a quick 
 blaze, wash thoroughly, passing a stream of cold 
 water again and again through the inside ; cut 
 off the head, feet, and neck. The liver and 
 gizzard well cleaned and boiled are good for the 
 gravy, which may be thickened with a little 
 cream and flour, well mixed, and poured in 
 when the water is boiling. 
 
 A large turkey requires three hours of roasting. 
 
 [141] 
 
142 POULTRY. 
 
 A turkey will not require so much time for 
 boiling. Put it into boiling water. 
 
 A fowl will require nearly an hour's time for 
 boiling ; an hour and a half for roasting. 
 
 Old poultry may be cut up, soaked in cold 
 water, and slowly boiled in the same water for 
 soups. 
 
 Quails, woodcocks, snipes, and plover, require 
 fifteen or twenty minutes for roasting. 
 
 A chicken will require not quite an hour for 
 roasting ; thirty -five minutes for boiling. 
 
 Young chickens are best broiled or fricasseed. 
 
 TO FRICASSEE A CHICKEN. 
 
 Cut it into joints ; stew it in milk and water, 
 seasoned with parsley, mace, thyme, lemon peel, 
 and salt. Stew it an hour, and just before serv- 
 ing it, add the yolks of two eggs, beaten up 
 with a teacup of sweet cream, stirring it in 
 gradually, but do not let it boil after the egg 
 and cream are added. 
 
 CHICKEN BAKED IN RICE. 
 
 Cut the chicken into joints, lay it in a pud- 
 ding-dish in a pint of veal gravy, with slices of 
 veal, fill up the dish with boiled rice, well pressed, 
 cover it with a paste of flour and water, and 
 bake it one hour in a slow oven. If you have 
 no veal gravy, use milk and water, salt it well, 
 and pour over, the rice one or two cups of thick 
 cream. 
 
POULTRY. 143 
 
 A GOOSE 
 
 Requires two hours to roast. Boil it first. 
 
 A GREEN GOOSE 
 
 Will require only an hour for roasting. 
 
 A DUCK 
 
 Requires one hour for roasting. 
 
 Should be parboiled before roasting. 
 
 PIGEONS 
 
 Will roast in half an hour. Stew pigeons as 
 chickens are stewed, or fricasseed. 
 
 PARTRIDGES 
 
 May be roasted like pigeons, but are better 
 stewed, because so dry. 
 
 Bread crumbs should be served with partridges 
 and pigeons. 
 
 SEASONS FOR DIFFERENT KINDS OF POULTRY. 
 
 Wild Birds, — 1st October till December. 
 
 Turkey, — December and January. 
 
 Chickens, — September and October. 
 
 Geese, — October and November. 
 
 Green Geese, Ducks, Chickens, — May and June. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 BOILED COD. 
 
 Soak the head and shoulder an hour in cold 
 water with a handful of salt. Scrape it clean, 
 rub a little salt into the body, flour a cloth, pin 
 the fish up tight, and put it into boiling water ; 
 let it boil twenty minutes, or longer if very large. 
 Eat it with oyster sauce or sauce made of eggs, 
 cream, and flour. 
 
 BAKED COD. 
 
 Make a dressing of bread crumbs, salt, pars- 
 ley, and egg ; fill the body and sew it up. Put 
 a pint of boiling water into the pan and bake 
 half an hour; thicken the liquor with cream, 
 flour, and a little tomato sauce ; let it boil up 
 once and turn it over the fish. 
 
 HADDOCK. 
 
 Add a little white wine to the gravy, and bake 
 like cod. 
 
 SMELTS AND PERCH. 
 
 Fry them in batter. 
 
 [144] 
 
FISH. 145 
 
 SALMON. 
 
 Cut salmon into slices half an inch thick, and 
 fry them in batter, or crumbs and egg, 
 
 BOILED SALMON. 
 
 Do not soak salmon, but wash it clean, rub 
 salt into it, put it in a floured cloth, and put it 
 into boiling water. Let six pounds boil half an 
 hour. Serve it with a sauce of cream and 
 eggs. 
 
 BROILED SALMON. 
 
 Split it to the tail and broil it very quickly. 
 
 BOILED HALIBUT. 
 
 The cut next to the tail is the nicest. Rub 
 salt over it, soak it awhile in cold water, wash 
 it, scrape it, pin it in a floured cloth, and put 
 it in boiling water. Eight pounds will require 
 a little more than half an hour's boiling. 
 
 FRY HALIBUT 
 
 Like salmon. 
 
 BROILED HALIBUT. 
 
 Broil the nape. 
 
 BOILED MACKEREL. 
 
 Draw out the inside, put it in a floured cloth, 
 and boil twenty minutes. Broil also. 
 10 
 
146 FISH. 
 
 SALMON TROUT 
 
 Should be broiled like salmon. 
 
 SALT FISH, OR DUN FISH. 
 
 Soak it over night in a large pan of water, 
 wash it in fresh water the next morning, and let 
 it simmer slowly and finally scald, but not boil. 
 Remove the skin, and eat it with cream and 
 
 eggs- 
 
 Braid this with milk and eggs, and a little 
 flour, and brown small cakes of it on the griddle 
 for the next day's dinner or breakfast. Potato 
 is good mixed with it for cakes. 
 
 CLAMS. 
 
 Lay them on the coals or gridiron, so that the 
 shell will retain the liquor. When the shell 
 opens, pour the liquor into a saucepan, cut out 
 the clams and boil them. Add cream and salt, 
 and pour them upon toasted bread. 
 
 SEASONS FOR DIFFERENT KINDS OF FISH. 
 
 Cod and Haddock, — 1st October to 1st May. 
 
 Halibut, — February to July. 
 
 Pickerel and Smelts, — all winter. 
 
 Mackerel, — May to October. 
 
 Salmon, — April to August. 
 
 Salmon Trout, — Spring. 
 
 Lobster, — April to August. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 PICKLES. 
 
 Pickles should be kept in glass bottles, as 
 glazing is made with poisonous substances, and 
 disastrous effects have sometimes followed their 
 use. 
 
 CUCUMBERS, 
 
 Wash and drain them in a sieve, but do not 
 break the little prickers on the surface, for it 
 makes them soften ; put them in a jar, and pour 
 on boiling vinegar. When you gather more, 
 transfer the first you gathered into another jar 
 with fresh vinegar, in which is a bag of spices, 
 and boil the first vinegar again, and pour it over 
 your second gathering. When you have gather- 
 ed all you wish to pickle, boil again the same 
 vinegar, and scald the whole with it, and lay 
 them back into the spiced vinegar. Examine 
 them occasionally, and add a little vinegar from 
 time to time. 
 
 [147] 
 
148 PICKLES. 
 
 BUTTERNUTS AND WALNUTS. 
 
 Should be gathered about the first of July, 
 at a time when a pin can be easily thrust 
 through the rind. Make a brine that will bear 
 an egg, skim it, and pour it on the nuts. Ten 
 days after drain them, pat them into a jar or 
 wooden keg, and pour over them vinegar spiced 
 with cloves, allspice, ginger, mace, and horse- 
 radish, but not till it is cooled after the spices 
 have been boiled in it. Cover them closely and 
 let them stand a year. 
 
 MARTINOES. 
 
 Keep them in brine ten days, changing it every 
 other day. Take them out of the brine, wipe 
 them, and pour on boiling spiced vinegar. They 
 will be good to eat in a month, and are very 
 delicate. 
 
 PEACHES. 
 
 They must be ripe, but not soft. Put a clove 
 into each one, opposite the stem. Boil a pound 
 of brown sugar in a gallon of vinegar, skim it, 
 and p6ur it hot upon the peaches, and cover 
 them closely. Scald the vinegar once more 
 after a week or fortnight. 
 
 NASTURTIONS. 
 
 Gather the green seeds and throw them into 
 vinegar. Boil the vinegar with salt, and pour it 
 upon them. They need no spice. 
 
PICKLES. 149 
 
 MANGOES. 
 
 Select small musk melons; cut a piece out 
 of one side of each, take out all the seeds, and 
 fill them with cloves, horse-radish scrapings, pep- 
 percorns, and mace. Pour boiling vinegar upon 
 them, with a little salt in it, two or three times, 
 and then put them into fresh vinegar, and cover 
 them closely. 
 
 CHERRIES. 
 
 Stew them till they are a little tender, then 
 pour on spiced vinegar. 
 
 EGGS. 
 
 Boil them twelve minutes, throw them into 
 cold water. This will remove the shells. Boil 
 red beets till soft, peel and mash them, and put 
 them into cold vinegar. Add salt, mace, cloves, 
 and pepper, and cover the eggs with the mix- 
 ture. 
 
 TOMATOES. 
 
 Put the small round tomatoes into hot brine 
 for a few days, then pour over them cold spiced 
 vinegar, and bottle them closely. 
 
 SWEET PICKLES. 
 Cherries, peaches, raspberries, tomatoes, plums, 
 and crab apples may be made into very de- 
 licious sweet pickles, by adding half their 
 
150 PICKLES. 
 
 weight of sugar to their full weight of spiced 
 vinegar, when the spices are boiling in it, and 
 pouring it over them while boiling. 
 
 POWDERED HERBS. 
 
 Two ounces of dried parsley, one each of 
 thyme, summer savory, sweet marjoram, dried 
 lemon peel, all dried thoroughly, powdered fine 
 and mixed together, and bottled. Each is good 
 by itself for soups, &c. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 RASPBERRY VINEGAR. 
 
 Six pints of raspberries to a quart of vii egar. 
 After a few days, mash them and strain them, 
 add two pounds of crushed sugar, boil it half an 
 hour, skim it, and when cold, bottle it. 
 
 HONEY VINEGAR. 
 
 A pound of honey to a gallon of vinegar, stir 
 it well and set it in the sun. 
 
 CURRANT SHRUB. 
 
 Boil currant juice for a few minutes with 
 sugar, a pound to a pint. Stir it while cooling, 
 and then bottle it. A table-spoonful in a tumbler 
 of water makes a refreshing beverage. 
 
 SARSAPARILLA MEAD. 
 
 One ounce of essence of sarsaparilla, one of 
 cream of tartar, one of flour, three of tartaric acid, 
 three pounds of sugar, and three quarts of water. 
 
 [151] 
 
152 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 Strain and bottle it, and in a fortnight it will be 
 good. 
 
 LEMON SYRUP. 
 
 One pound of sugar to one pint of juice. 
 Strain it through a flannel, wrung out in hot 
 water, and bottle it. It will keep well. 
 
 VINEGAR, — THE GERMAN METHOD OF 
 MAKING IT. 
 
 " Vinegar," Mr. Youmans says, " is often 
 adulterated with oil of vitriol. To detect it, 
 evaporate a portion of the vinegar in a porcelain 
 vessel ; if towards the end of the evaporation, suf- 
 focating fumes are given off, and a black, charred 
 residuum is left, sulphuric acid is indicated. Pure 
 vinegar evolves only an agreeable vinegar odor, 
 and leaves a brownish deposit, not charred. 
 Pepper, mustard, and other acri'd substances are 
 sometimes added to weak vinegar to give it 
 strength. By saturating a portion of the acid 
 with an alkali, the acrid taste of these sub- 
 stances will become sensible. 
 
 " Vinegar, which has been long exposed to 
 the air, and particularly if it is not strong, is 
 subject to a peculiar putrefaction, by which a 
 thick, slimy substance, (vinegar mother,) is pro- 
 duced ; also infusoria, (vinegar eels) ; these may 
 be destroyed and further change arrested by boil- 
 ing the vinegar. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS. 153 
 
 " If vinegar is too weak, it may be concen- 
 trated by freezing it. The watery portion will 
 freeze sooner than the acetic acid, which may 
 be drawn off before the whole mixture is quite 
 frozen." 
 
 It is generally a very long process to make 
 vinegar, because the atmospheric air is essential 
 to the process, and in the ordinary mode, the 
 materials are left exposed to the air for many 
 months, by leaving a hole open in the barrel. 
 The Germans make it in thirty-six hours in the 
 following manner : 
 
 Perforate a clean cask with a row of small 
 holes, at one fourth of its height. Fill the cask 
 lightly with shavings, already soaked in vinegar. 
 Beech shavings are the best, and they must be 
 soaked in vinegar, because a mixture of pure 
 alcohol and water will not absorb oxygen from 
 the air. Have a tin pan perforated with holes 
 fitted to the top of the barrel, or to a large hole 
 in the barrel head. Let threads be swung through 
 these holes, and pour into the pan proof spirit 
 diluted with four times its weight of water, 
 mixed with a very little honey or yeast. This 
 will trickle down gradually upon the shavings, 
 where a large surface is exposed to the action of 
 the oxygen of the air; rapid absorption takes 
 place, the temperature is raised, and acetic acid 
 is rapidly formed. It may be passed through 
 
154 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 the shavings three or four times in thirty-six 
 hours, and is then ready for use. 
 
 It may be collected from a bung-hole near the 
 bottom, and the shavings, once saturated, will 
 answer as long as one chooses to use them. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 DIET FOR THE SICK. 
 
 A distinguished physician remarked that 
 homoeopathy has taught the world one truth, 
 that little or no medicine is needed for health. 
 
 Regimen and diet are the two great means of 
 restoration as well as of prevention. 
 
 I subjoin a few receipts for common com- 
 plaints. The greater number of complaints may 
 be alleviated, if not cured, by a change of diet. 
 
 Bread made of unbolted wheat, or rye, or corn 
 meal; stewed prunes or apples, ripe tomatoes, 
 cooked or uncooked, will prove a good remedy 
 for constipation. 
 
 The greatest scourge in our climate is that 
 class of diseases which are called summer com- 
 plaints. They are chiefly caused by eating un- 
 ripe fruits, which are pernicious even when 
 cooked. As soon as currants are large enough 
 to be eaten, they are gathered, while perfectly 
 green and hard, and used for sauces, pies, and 
 tarts. Apples and gooseberries are eaten in the 
 same manner. There are very few things more 
 
 [155] 
 
156 DIET FOR THE SICK. 
 
 injurious to the human stomach than a green 
 apple. Fruit in its season is perfectly healthful 
 food, and if eaten when ripe, and at meal times, 
 it would probably never disorder healthy diges- 
 tive powers, and would often restore dyspeptics 
 to health. In winter, food which contains a 
 larger portion of carbon and hydrogen is re- 
 quired, to produce animal heat, but in summer, 
 vegetables and fruits are the appropriate diet. 
 They contain a large proportion of water, 
 which cools the blood, and exudes through the 
 skin, thus keeping the temperature of the body 
 at a low degree. 
 
 But if the natural law is broken, and diarrhoea, 
 and dysentary supervene, the best diet is porridge 
 made with prepared flour, biscotine, rennet whey, 
 mutton broth, &c. 
 
 PREPARED FLOUR. 
 
 Tie up a pint of flour very tightly in a cloth, 
 and put into boiling water. Let it boil three 
 hours. When untied, the gluten of the flour 
 will be found in a mass on the outside of the 
 ball. Remove this, and the inside will prove a 
 dry powder, which is very astringent. Grate 
 this, and wet a portion of it in cold milk. Boil 
 a pint of milk, and when it is at the boiling 
 point, stir in as much of the wet mixture as will 
 thicken it to the quality of palatable porridge. 
 Stir in a little salt, and let this be the sole 
 
DIET FOR THE SICK. 157 
 
 article of diet until the disease has disappeared. 
 Relieve it first by toasted bread, or very delicate 
 mutton broth, which latter is also astringent. 
 If the disease has not progressed to the degree 
 of inflammation, this diet will generally preclude 
 all need of medicine. 
 
 BISCOTINE. 
 
 Press a pint of dry, well-sifted flour, very com- 
 pactly into a tin pan, and let it slowly bake in a 
 moderate oven till it has become very delicately 
 brown, or dark cream color. It will be very 
 hard, and must be grated for use, and can be 
 used for porridge, like the prepared flour. 
 
 MUCILAGE. 
 
 Mucilage of boiled sheep's trotters is good for 
 diarrhoea. 
 
 ESSENCE OF BEEF. 
 Strip three pounds of tender beef quite fine, 
 and put it into a corked bottle without water. 
 Place the bottle over a slow fire in a kettle of 
 cold water, and let it come to a boil, and keep 
 on boiling three hours. Decant the juice ex- 
 tracted from the beef, and it will prove a very 
 strengthening, aromatic beverage, which, with 
 the addition of a little salt, will often set well 
 upon a stomach which will bear no other food. 
 It may even be given to infants at the breast, 
 
158 DIET FOR THE SICK. 
 
 when they are much reduced by diarrhoea. It 
 may be thickened with biscotine or prepared 
 flour with advantage. 
 
 The remedy for dysentery proper is cold water 
 applied externally by sitz-baths, and injections, 
 and drunk freely. 
 
 RICE WATER. 
 
 Boil rice till it is perfectly dissolved, by adding 
 water continually, strain it from all particles, and 
 it will be a suitable diet for patients recovering 
 from disordered bowels. It is essential that it 
 be free from all particles, which lodge in the 
 intestines and may cause inflammation. 
 
 TOAST WATER. 
 
 If well toasted bread, toasted to the verge of 
 burning, yet not burnt, be soaked in water for 
 the sick, the water that is decanted from it will 
 be freed from all deleterious substances floating 
 in the atmosphere, which are absorbed by the 
 toasted bread. 
 
 RENNET WHEY. 
 
 Dry rennet carefully. If it is salted, it may 
 be kept even in summer. An inch square of 
 rennet, (well soaked if it has been salted,) will 
 turn a pint of lukewarm milk into whey in a 
 few minutes. 
 
 Rennet may be preserved in Madeira wine. 
 
DIET FOR THE SICK. 159 
 
 A table-spoonful of a quart of wine in which 
 one rennet has been standing, will turn a quart 
 of lukewarm milk to whey in a few minutes. 
 This is very good food for a weak stomach, if 
 the curd is eaten while very soft, or if the whey 
 alone is taken. But after it has stood an hour, 
 or even half an hour, the curds become too hard 
 to be digestible. 
 
 Total abstinence from food for several days 
 is often an excellent remedy for stomach com- 
 plaints. 
 
 WINE WHEY. 
 
 Two glasses of wine to a pint of boiling milk ; 
 take it from the fire, and after it has stood a few 
 minutes strain it through muslin or a delicate 
 sieve. Sweeten it with loaf sugar. Add hot 
 water if too strong. 
 
 OATMEAL GRUEL. 
 
 One large spoonful of oatmeal wet in cold 
 water, to one quart of boiling water. Boil 
 gently half an hour, and add salt, sugar, and 
 raisins if allowed, but the latter should not be 
 swallowed by the sick. 
 
 GROUND RICE 
 
 Prepared in the same way ; one teaspoonful 
 to half a pint of boiling water ; let it boil up 
 once. 
 
160 DIET FOR THE SICK. 
 
 INDIAN MEAL GRUEL 
 
 Must be boiled much longer. 
 
 PEARL SAGO 
 
 Must be soaked in cold water before boiling, 
 and then quite dissolved. Season to the taste. 
 
 TAPIOCA 
 
 Should be soaked over night and boiled till 
 soft. 
 
 ARROW-ROOT 
 
 Should be wet in cold water, and boiling water 
 poured upon it. Add lemon juice and sugar. 
 
 CREAM TEA. 
 
 Four spoonfuls of boiling water to one spoon- 
 ful of sweet cream, and a little loaf sugar. Deli- 
 cate for the tenderest infant, but the cream must 
 be genuine, not city cream. 
 
 CALF'S FEET TEA. 
 
 Two calf's feet boiled in a quart of water, a 
 quart of milk, and baked in an oven with the 
 addition of lemon juice. Bake three hours, and 
 remove the fat. Eat with sugar. 
 
 FEVER DRAUGHT. 
 
 Put a few sprigs of cleanly washed balm, 
 sage, and sorrel into a jar. Slice the pulp of a 
 
DIET FOR THE SICK. 161 
 
 lemon, grate in a little of the peel, pour upon it 
 all three pints of boiling water and cork it tight 
 for use. 
 
 ANOTHER FEVER DRAUGHT. 
 
 Boil an ounce and a half of tamarinds, three 
 ounces of currants, two of stoned raisins, in three 
 pints of water. Boil them down one third, and 
 strain them. 
 
 PARCHED CORN TEA. 
 
 Pound parched corn pretty fine, pour boiling 
 water upon it, let it boil a little, and add sugar 
 and milk if liked. It is good for teething chil- 
 dren, and for any weak stomach. 
 
 HERB TEAS 
 
 Should be taken as soon as made. 
 
 Mothers, during the period of pregnancy, 
 should eat less than usual, instead of more, as 
 they often do, and their diet should be a select 
 one. In this way much uncomfortable feeling 
 may be avoided. The diet should avoid lime 
 as much as possible, because it is better for the 
 future development of the child as well as for 
 the present good of the mother, that the bones 
 should not be hard, and should consist of acid 
 fruits and vegetables, and those farinaceous 
 grains that contain the least of that ingredient. 
 11 
 
162 DIET FOR THE SICK. 
 
 Rice, tapioca, sago, ripe fruits, especially those 
 of an acid nature, ripe vegetables, filtered rain- 
 water, meats, and a moderate use of milk and 
 eggs, are recommended on the chemical and phy- 
 siological principles, which can only be indicated 
 in a work of this nature. 
 
 All indigestion should be carefully guarded 
 against. During the period of nursing, bread- 
 stuffs and milk should be resumed, and all acids, 
 green vegetables, fruits, and wines, should be 
 discontinued. Cordials and porter, which are 
 often taken by mothers and wet-nurses " to make 
 more milk," lay in children the foundations of 
 future punishment. The poor, who are obliged 
 to leave their children, in order to earn bread for 
 their support, and who know nothing of physi- 
 ology, or that alcohol has a specific effect upon 
 the brain, may be pardoned for giving paregoric 
 and other sleeping potions to their infants to 
 keep them asleep and out of danger, but mothers 
 who know better cannot be pardoned for leav- 
 ing their children to the care of nurses, who 
 are well known, as a class, to administer sleep- 
 ing potions to the children entrusted to their 
 care, in order to save themselves trouble. In 
 view of these things, what wonder is there that 
 intemperance pervades society, high as well as 
 low? 
 
 Nothing but a knowledge of physiology will 
 ever stem the tide of these abuses. No mother 
 
DIET FOR THE SICK. 163 
 
 should consider herself qualified for that office 
 until she has made it a careful study. "When 
 education is precisely what it should be, every 
 mother will be a physiologist, and all nurses 
 will be physicians. 
 
 A RECEIPT FOR WASHING. 
 
 To a quart of soft soap, add a quart of water 
 and two ounces of borax ; dissolve by heat, and 
 then allow it to cool. Place the clothes in water 
 over night; in the morning put a pint cup of the 
 above mixture into a kettle holding from eight 
 to ten gallons of cold water. Put it over the 
 fire, let it come to the boiling point, and boil an 
 hour. Wash out of this boiling water and 
 rinse well. Begin each boil in the same man- 
 ner, putting in the same proportion of the mix- 
 ture. Remember to put the clothes into the 
 water while it is cold. 
 
 LATEST DISCOVERY, — A GERMAN RECEIPT. 
 
 To wash colored articles, whether silk, cotton, 
 linen or woollen, without starting any of the 
 colors, grate a few potatoes into cold water, and 
 wash the article with the solution. After being 
 thoroughly wet with the potato, rub on soap 
 and warm water to take out grease. If the 
 article is nice, like merino or satins, strain the 
 potato, and wash with the liquid only. Reserve 
 
1G4 DIET FOR THE SICK. 
 
 a portion for rinsing water, if there are more 
 colors than one. The colors that generally run 
 freely will stand fast, and the starch of the po- 
 tato will impart the required stiffness to silk 
 or satin. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 [For the benefit of those who would like to know something of 
 French Cookery, I subjoin a few French receipts.] 
 
 It has been truly said that the French are a nation 
 of cooks, and I would not be understood to speak dis- 
 paragingly of them, when I say it has been truly said. 
 They have had the good sense to observe that health, 
 and therefore to a great degree happiness, is dependent 
 upon good cooking, and with their national readiness, 
 they have applied themselves to the task of improving 
 the art. The same objections are found in their 
 cookery as in that of all other peoples. Melted but- 
 ter, lard, and oil enter largely into it, but their nicety 
 is shown in the specific direction in almost every re- 
 ceipt, to skim off every particle of the fat, which I find 
 in the Cookery Books of no other people. 
 
 All the deleterious effects of partaking of fatty food 
 are not, however, obviated by this, for a portion of the 
 corrosive acids, which are the product of all fatty mat- 
 ter heated to the boiling point, is preserved and mixed 
 with the food. To remove as much of them as pos- 
 sible, by careful skimming, should not be forgotten 
 in those cases where we cannot wholly separate fatty 
 matter from our cooked meats. If the gravy in a 
 baking pan is set in the cold air for a few minutes, or 
 
 [167] 
 
168 APPENDIX. 
 
 turned into a cool dish, the fatty matter will rise and form 
 a cake upon the top, and can then be removed, leaving 
 the proper juices of the meat, which may be thickened 
 with cream and flour, and flavored with lemon or 
 tomato, making an innocent gravy. But if meat is 
 properly cooked, the juices that flow from it, when 
 cut, constitute the most healthful gravy, and all that 
 a healthy appetite would require. Tomato sauce, egg 
 sauce, oyster sauce, may be added for garnishing, and 
 contribute to health and nourishment, as well as to the 
 pleasures of the palate; — legitimate pleasures, when 
 not indulged at the expense of health. 
 
 The delicate flavor of French dishes is often im- 
 parted by a sprig of thyme, of parsley, of sorrel, or a 
 bay-leaf. 
 
 Many articles are made into savory dishes which, in 
 our American haste and carelessness, are thrown away 
 as useless. The heads, brains, cheeks, ears, tails, and 
 feet of animals may be made into nutritious soups, or 
 jellies, flavored with a bouquet, as Soyer expresses it, 
 gathered at the door or in the garden, or if these are 
 not at hand, with a lemon, a tomato, &c. A few 
 receipts are subjoined, which will be suggestive, as 
 well as specifically instructive. 
 
 To cook precisely upon the French plan, a few 
 utensils are necessary. First, the brazing-pan, a 
 wide vessel, made of galvanized iron, with an air-tight 
 cover, to secure all the aromatic properties of the sub- 
 stances cooked; secondly, a pot-au-feu, an earthen pot 
 for the boiling of soups ; and thirdly, a saucepan, or 
 stew-pan, an open vessel of galvanized iron, or iron 
 lined with porcelain. The brazing-pan answers to our 
 
APPENDIX. 169 
 
 old-fashioned baking-pan, which used to hang upon a 
 trammel over the fire, with live charcoal upon the 
 cover. Our modern stove ovens are substituted for 
 the former methods of baking, but the brazing-pan 
 will be useful in an oven, for much of the aroma of 
 meat escapes by its not being covered. It will also 
 answer for freshening stale bread, by restoring it to 
 the oven in a covered pan, as indicated in a former 
 receipt. 
 
 Broiling upon a soapstone griddle, rubbed with salt, 
 may be substituted for broiling over an open fire. 
 The griddle must be very hot, and the meat often 
 turned. Frying always is objectionable. 
 
 FRENCH BOUILLI. 
 
 Soak the meat, destined for soup, for one or two 
 hours in cold water, in the proportion of a gallon of 
 water to every six pounds. Then put it into the 
 pot-au-feu, which must not stand upon the hottest 
 part of the fire at first. Let it simmer, and skim it. 
 [The skimming will not be necessary if the meat is 
 previously deprived of all its fat. Ed.] 
 
 After it has gradually warmed, place it where it will 
 boil, but just before it boils, put in a large table- 
 spoonful of salt, two carrots, four turnips, a head of 
 celery, half a pound of liver, eight young leeks, (two 
 old ones will answer,) a parsnip, three or four cloves, 
 two onions, one of which has been roasted, and let all 
 simmer for five hours. Occasionally add a little cold 
 water. Serve the meat and vegetables together, and 
 throw slices of bread into the tureen when the bouilli 
 is put into it to be served. If one prefers to strain 
 
170 APPExNDIX. 
 
 this soup, let the beef be chopped fine. If not, let it 
 only be cut into strips. If put in whole, less nourish- 
 ment will be extracted from it, but it will be a better 
 piece of meat to accompany the bouilli. [The French 
 do not strain soups through a cloth, because they think 
 it deprives them of their finest flavor, but through a 
 hair sieve. Ed.] 
 
 STOCK FOR ALL SOUPS. 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal and cut it into small pieces ; 
 rub a stew-pan with some of the fat of veal, and put 
 into the pan, which should be a two gallon vessel, half 
 a pint of water, the chopped veal, half a pint of rich 
 milk, or a gill of cream, two ounces of salt, three 
 onions, with a clove or two in each, a turnip, a carrot, 
 and half a head of celery. Cover the stew-pan [the 
 brazing-pan will answer the purpose]. Set it over a 
 sharp fire, and stir its contents Avith a wooden spoon 
 until the bottom of the pan is covered with a thick, 
 whitish glaze, which Mill gently adhere to the spoon. 
 Fill the stew-pan at this moment with cold water, and 
 the instant before it would boil, place it in a position 
 where it may simmer for three hours. Skim off all grease 
 and scum carefully. Pass it through a fine hair sieve, 
 and it is ready for use, and will keep well. If beef is 
 used, it must be allowed double time to simmer, and 
 seven pounds of beef is the proportion to six of veal. 
 To color the soup, add a little browning. 
 
 BROWNING. 
 
 Put two ounces of sugar into a stew-pan, and place 
 it over the fire. Stir it with a wooden spoon as soon 
 
APPENDIX. 171 
 
 as it begins to melt, and when it looks black, pour 
 over it half a pint of cold water. Leave it to dissolve, 
 and when prepared, use a few drops of it for a soup. 
 It will keep well in a bottle. 
 
 GLAZE. 
 
 Make a soup stock as above directed, but without 
 the salt. Strain it through a sieve and restore it to 
 the stew-pan with the meat, and let it boil four hours, 
 to obtain 'all the nourishment from the meat. Then 
 put both stocks together again, and let it boil as 
 rapidly as possible, stirring it occasionally with the 
 wooden spoon. When reduced to three pints, let it 
 boil more slowly, and skim it when required ; when 
 reduced to a quart, place it where it will boil rapidly 
 again, until it forms a thick glaze, which will adhere 
 to the spoon, of a fine yellowish brown color. 
 
 If to be kept long, pour it into a bladder. Veal 
 makes the best glaze. 
 
 These soup stocks and this glaze make a great addi- 
 tion to vegetable soups. 
 
 JULIENNE SOUP. 
 
 This is a national soup, as well as the French bouilli. 
 It is made in June and July, when all vegetables are 
 in season. To be in perfection, a small quantity of 
 every kind of vegetable should be used, but a less 
 variety will make a good soup. Take half a pound, in 
 fair proportions to each other, of carrots, turnips, 
 onions, celery, leeks, &c, which cut into small fillets 
 an inch in length and a quarter of an inch in thickness. 
 Wash them dry, put them into a stew-pan with half a 
 
172 APPENDIX. 
 
 pint of cream and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar ; 
 toss them in this over a sharp fire for ten minutes, 
 until they are covered with a thin glaze, but do not 
 let them become brown, for that would destroy the 
 flavor of the soup. When done, pour two quarts of 
 clear stock over them, set it upon the fire, and when 
 it is nearly boiling remove it to a place where it can 
 only simmer, until the vegetables are quite tender ; 
 half an hour's simmering will probably answer. There 
 should be half a pound of vegetables to two quarts of 
 stock. Just before it is done, add a little sorrel, cab- 
 bage, lettuce, and a few peas. Cut all vegetables into 
 equal pieces, else some will be tender, while others 
 remain hard. 
 
 AUTUMN SOUP. 
 
 Put a gallon of water into a saucepan, cut up two 
 pounds of cabbage, four cabbage lettuces, a handful of 
 sorrel, or the juice of half a lemon, two finely sliced 
 cucumbers, and half a pint of rich cream. Stir these 
 over a brisk fire until very little liquid remains, then 
 stir in two table-spoonfuls of flour, wet with a little 
 soup stock ; pour on three quarts of stock ; add a 
 quart of young fresh peas ; boil it half an hour, and 
 season with one teaspoonful of salt and two of sugar. 
 This is a delicious soup. 
 
 To make a puree of these soups, pass them through 
 a coarse hair sieve, or a fine wire sieve. A puree of 
 any single vegetable, beans, peas, &c, or of any union 
 of vegetables, may be obtained by boiling them in only 
 sufficient water to make them of the desired thickness, 
 which will be a mush, rather than a liquid. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 173 
 
 PUR^E OF CARROT. 
 
 To five or six large carrots, scraped and sliced, leav- 
 ing out the centre, add a large onion, peeled and sliced, 
 a turnip, a few sprigs of parsley, a quarter of a pound 
 of corned beef, half a pint of cream, a pint of water, 
 or of soup stock, in which two ounces of flour are 
 mixed smoothly. When the carrot is tender, add five 
 pints of stock, season with salt and sugar, (one tea- 
 spoonful of salt to two of sugar,) and let it all boil a 
 quarter of an hour. Pass it through a hair sieve and 
 serve. This puree should be red. 
 
 FRENCH ANGLER'S STEW OF FISH. 
 
 Take three or four pounds of fish of various kinds, 
 carp, pike, trout, tench, eels, &c, and cut them into 
 pieces of equal size. Put them into a stew-pan, with 
 about a table-spoonful of salt, half as much sugar, 
 half as much pepper, four onions sliced, four glasses 
 of port or sherry, or the juice of half a lemon, and 
 half a pint of water. Stew it until tender, tossing the 
 bits of fish occasionally. When tender to the finger, 
 mix a table-spoonful of flour with a gill of cream, and 
 mix it in by shaking the pan. Let it boil a few minutes 
 longer. Reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back 
 of the spoon, and season it with a few sprigs of thyme 
 or bay-leaf. If any pieces of the fish are tender be- 
 fore the others, take them out and reserve them till 
 the rest are done. 
 
 CREAM SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 
 Put two yolks of eggs into a stew-pan, with the 
 juice of a lemon, a little salt, a very little pepper, and 
 
174 APPENDIX. 
 
 a half pint of cream. Stir it over a moderate fire with 
 a wooden spoon, and when on the point of being 
 scalded, add another gill of cream. Do not let it boil, 
 but when nearly boiling again, pass it through a hair 
 sieve, and serve it with any boiled fish. 
 
 LOBSTER BUTTER. 
 
 Take half the spawn of a lobster, pound it well in 
 a mortar, add six ounces of fresh butter, and rub 
 it through a sieve, and keep it in a cold place till 
 wanted. 
 
 MA1TRE D'HOTEL BUTTER. 
 
 Mix together a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, 
 one table-spoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of 
 two lemons, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a very 
 little white pepper. Keep it in a cool place. 
 
 TO DRESS A CALF'S HEAD. 
 
 Soak the head for ten minutes in lukewarm water, 
 powder it well with rosin, dip it into a large quantity 
 of scalding water, and, holding it by the ear, scrape 
 off the hair with the back of a knife. When clean, 
 take out the eyes, cut out the tongue, remove the jaw- 
 bone with the teeth, saw lengthwise through the skull 
 without injuring the brains, which must be carefully 
 taken out, and put for a few hours into lukewarm 
 water, to disgorge, [that is, to rinse out the blood.] 
 
 Make a stock by putting into the brazing-pan two 
 or three carrots and onions, six cloves, a pint of cream, 
 a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, and after 
 stirring this together for twenty minutes over the fire, 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 175 
 
 add a pint of water. When this is warm, mix a 
 quarter of a pound of flour with a gallon of water, 
 slice a lemon, add a quarter of a pound of salt, and 
 lay the calf's head into the stock. Let it be entirely 
 covered, else the uncovered part will have a dark look, 
 and simmer it gently till it is tender. 
 
 sheep's head. 
 
 Choose a fat head, put it into a gallon of water for 
 two hours, then cleanse it well, saw it in two, cut 
 away the ends of the jaws and the uncovered part of 
 the brain, put it into the stew-pan, with a similar 
 stock to the above, adding, when nearly boiling, half a 
 teacupful of pearl barley, if at hand. Let it simmer 
 for three hours. Boil the brain for ten minutes in a 
 little vinegar, salt, and water ; cut it in pieces, season 
 it with parsley and salt, and serve it under the head. 
 Serve the head thus, or as a soup. 
 
 Lamb's head will need less time to become tender. 
 Half a sheep's liver, boiled for thirty minutes in a 
 quart of water, cut into small cubes and set on the 
 fire again, with the addition of a spoonful of flour in 
 half a pint of the broth, a little grated nutmeg, or 
 pepper and salt, stirred till boiling, and then allowed 
 to simmer for a few minutes, will be an additional 
 nicety in this dish. 
 
 BOASTED SWEETBREADS. 
 
 Soak the sweetbreads in lukewarm water to dis- 
 gorge, for three or four hours, then pour boiling water 
 over them, and let them remain in it two or three 
 minutes, not longer ; put them into the stew-pan with 
 
176 APPENDIX. 
 
 a few slices of carrot and turnip, a little parsley, 
 thyme, bay-leaf, and a blade of mace, cover with a 
 little water or soup stock, and let them boil for twenty 
 minutes ; dry them on a cloth, egg them and roll them 
 in bread crumbs, and brown them in the oven ; lay 
 them upon toasted bread, strain the liquor in which 
 they were boiled, add to it a little cream, and pour it 
 over the toast. 
 
 STEWED CALF'S EARS. 
 
 Cut out and lay the boiled ears on a board, and 
 make incisions through the gristly part of an inch 
 in length. If not quite tender, restore them to the 
 soup till done. Lay them on the warm dish, turn over 
 the top of the ear so that it may form a round ; put a 
 piece of brain in the centre or a little veal stuffing or 
 forcemeat, and pour over it tomato or caper sauce, or 
 egg it over, roll it in bread crumbs, and brown it in 
 the oven. 
 
 CUTLETS A LA VICTIME. 
 
 This is a very nourishing morceau for an invalid. 
 Cut three cutlets from the neck of mutton, take all 
 the fat from one, place it between the two others, 
 which may not be trimmed, press them together so 
 that the inside one be hidden from sight, tie them 
 together, and broil over a very strong fire for ten 
 minutes ; then cut the string and serve the middle one 
 only, with a little salt sprinkled over it, upon a hot 
 dish. It will have imbibed all the nourishment of the 
 outer cutlets. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 177 
 
 FRICASSEED FOWL. 
 
 Cut a fowl into eight pieces, wash them, lay the 
 pieces into a brazing-pan, or any covered stew-pan, 
 pour on boiling water, season with a teaspoonful of 
 salt, a bouquet of parsley and thyme, three or four 
 cloves, and a blade of mace. Let it boil twenty 
 minutes. Strain through a sieve, trim the pieces of 
 fowl nicely, put half a pint of stock mixed with flour 
 into the stew-pan, let it boil a few minutes, restore the 
 pieces of fowl, add a gill of cream, mixed with the 
 beaten yolks of two eggs, [called a liaison in French 
 cookery,] and stir it quickly over the fire, but do not 
 let it boil again. Serve in pyramidal form upon a hot 
 dish, pouring the broth over the fowl. If any dish is 
 to be warmed up again which contains a liaison, it 
 should be done in a basin covered tightly, and set into 
 a kettle of boiling water, else the sauce will be curdled. 
 A glass of wine added, when the sauce is boiling, will 
 improve the fricassee. 
 
 PEASE PUDDING. 
 
 Tie up a pint of split peas in a cloth, leaving them 
 room to swell, but no more. Put them into cold 
 water, and let them boil till tender ; turn them out of 
 the cloth, and rub them through a hair sieve. Add 
 half a pint of cream, season with salt ; mix all together 
 with three yolks and one whole egg ; flour a pudding 
 eloth, place it in a small basin or bowl, pour in the 
 mixture, tie it up and set the basin in a kettle of boil- 
 ing water for an hour ; when done, turn it from the 
 cloth into a warm pudding-dish. 
 12 
 
178 APPENDIX. 
 
 SNOW EGGS. 
 
 Flavor half a pint of milk and a little sugar with 
 orange-flower or peach water, or any other essence ; 
 have ready the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff 
 froth ; (this may be done in warm weather in a basin 
 that stands upon ice, or even in cold water;) add a 
 little powdered sugar very gradually. While the milk 
 is boiling, drop a table-spoonful of the egg at a time 
 into it, endeavoring to keep the form of an egg ; turn 
 it over when fully set, take it out in a strainer and 
 place it on a sieve, and arrange them in a crown on a 
 dish; when all done, beat the yolks of four of the 
 eggs in a stew-pan with a little sugar, and a few drops 
 of orange-flower water or rose water, pour part of the 
 boiling milk into it, to make a stiff custard, put it on 
 the fire till it thickens, and pour it over the whites. 
 Serve hot or cold. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER PUKE'e. 
 
 Cleanse the cauliflowers, which should be small, 
 thick, and firm, and let them lie an hour in salt and 
 water, then rinse them in fresh water very thoroughly. 
 Put them into boiling water, enough to cover them 
 well, add two ounces of salt and a gill of cream. Put 
 into a stew-pan a pint of soup stock, a turnip, and a 
 little celery, cut up fine, then slice in the cauliflower, 
 and when all is tender, mix in smoothly two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, two quarts of soup stock, and half 
 a pint of milk. Stir it constantly until it boils, add 
 one teasponful of salt and two of sugar, and rub it 
 through a hair sieve. Restore it to the stew-pan, boil 
 it five minutes, stirring it steadily and skimming it. 
 
APPENDIX. 179 
 
 Throw toasted bread into the tureen when it is served, 
 and stir in a gill of cream. 
 
 SPINACH. 
 
 Wash it in several waters, boil it ten minutes, or 
 till tender, drain it on a sieve, pressing it with the 
 hand, chop it up fine, put it into a stew-pan, with half 
 a pint of cream, and a teaspoonful of salt, restore it to 
 the fire in a little warm broth or soup stock, for a few 
 minutes, and serve it hot. 
 
 BOILED RICE. 
 
 Throw a pound of good rice, well washed, into two 
 quarts of boiling water ; when well swelled, drain it 
 on a sieve, put it into a basin or tin pail, and stand 
 this into salted water that is boiling briskly, and let 
 it stand until perfectly tender. Boiled thus, every 
 grain will be separate. 
 
 PUFF PASTE. 
 
 A French cook puts the yolk of an egg and the 
 juice of a lemon into the midst of a pound of dry 
 flour upon the moulding-board, adds a pinch of salt, 
 mixes it with cold water into a flexible paste, and dries 
 it off with flour, using the hand as little as possible. 
 Let it stand two minutes, and then spread half a pint 
 of rich cream over it, fold it over from the edges, and 
 roll it repeatedly, turning it often; lay it upon a 
 floured baking sheet, and place it upon ice, if possible 
 for half an hour, then roll it again. Cold water or 
 ice are essential to this paste. 
 
180 APPENDIX. 
 
 confectioners' paste. 
 Place half a pound of flour upon the moulding- 
 board, and put into a hole in the centre six ounces of 
 sifted sugar ; mix it into rather a stiff paste with four 
 eggs, the eggs and sugar being first dissolved together 
 and beaten, and knead it well. If too stiff, add more 
 eggs ; if too soft, more flour. 
 
 whipped cream or souffle\ 
 Put a quart of cream into a bowl with a quarter of 
 a pound of powdered sugar, flavored with orange- 
 flower water or lemon syrup, and whip the cream over 
 a sieve which stands upon another bowl. As the 
 cream rises in a froth, place it on the sieve with a 
 spoon, and let it drain into the bowl. Put back what 
 goes through into your whipping bowl, and continue 
 whisking it until it is all used. Serve it in glasses 
 or upon jelly or marmalade. It may be frozen if 
 desired. 
 
 CUSTARD FOR PUDDING. 
 
 Add two eggs to a pint of milk, and beat them well 
 together ; then sift in a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 half a teaspoonful of cinnamon and nutmeg, and a 
 bay-leaf, (or any flavoring that is agreeable, or none 
 whatever if that is preferred, for eggs have a flavor of 
 their own, lost by boiling.) Let this mixture come 
 almost to the boiling point, but remove it quickly from 
 the fire when it begins to thicken. Use it for pud- 
 dings with fruit, or serve it in glasses. 
 
 JELLY CREAMS. 
 
 Add to any jelly, marmalade, or even ripe fruit, 
 
APPENDIX. 181 
 
 the juice of two lemons, a pint of water, an ounce 
 and a half of isinglass, (dissolved in the water,) or 
 clarified calf's feet jelly, and stir them together in a 
 bowl set in ice. When it is nearly cold, stir in quickly 
 nearly a pint of whipped cream, and leave the mould 
 upon ice till wanted. Ripe strawberries may be used 
 instead of fruit, jelly, or marmalade, if the calf's feet 
 or isinglass jelly is cold but not yet set. Dip the 
 strawberries into the jelly, and then put them around 
 the mould, and fill up with the whipped cream. 
 
 SOUFFLE BISCUITS. 
 
 Rub the rind of a lemon into a pound of sugar, 
 pound it in a mortar, beat it into the yolks of five 
 eggs, add a gill of well- whipped cream and five ounces 
 of flour, stir it lightly, then add the well-beaten 
 whites ; cut papers three inches square, turn them up 
 half an inch all round, and fill them three fourths full ; 
 bake them in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes, and 
 when done, shake sugar over them, and serve them 
 immediately. 
 
 LEMON JELLY. 
 
 Take six lemons, remove the rind and pith of one, 
 grate the rind into a basin, and squeeze the juice of 
 the others into it. Put a quarter of a pound of sugar 
 into a stew-pan with half a pint of water, and when 
 these have boiled to a stiff syrup, take them off the 
 fire and add the juice and rind of the lemons. Cover 
 the stew-pan and replace it upon the fire. When it 
 begins to boil again, skim it carefully, and add by 
 degrees a wine glass of water to clarify it. Let it boil 
 
182 APPENDIX. 
 
 another minute, and then add half an ounce of good 
 isinglass, dissolved in boiling water, or clarified calf's 
 feet jelly, dissolved in cold water. Pass it through a 
 jelly-bag. 
 
 Five oranges and one lemon will make orange 
 jelly. Grate the rind of two of the oranges and half 
 that of the lemon. 
 
 To remove jelly from a mould, dip the mould in 
 lukewarm water, strike it gently, holding it in the 
 right hand, place the left on it, turn it over, and if it 
 shakes, let it slip off your hand upon the dish, and 
 remove the mould. 
 
 SUGAR OF LEMON. 
 
 Rub the rind of some fresh lemons upon a large 
 piece of sugar, and as it discolors it, scrape it off with 
 a knife. Dry it upon a sieve, and bottle it, when you 
 have obtained as much as you wish. 
 
 SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 Put a pound of powdered sugar into a large bowl, 
 which must stand in a bain-marie, [kettle of hot water,] 
 sift a pound of flour upon a sheet of paper, break 
 twelve eggs into the bowl, which must be beaten till 
 warm and rather thick, then take it from the bain- 
 marie, and continue to beat it until it is cold. Add 
 the chopped rind of a lemon and a pound of flour, 
 which must be mixed in lightly with a wooden spoon. 
 Dust a little flour upon your buttered baking -tin, 
 shaking all out that does not adhere to the butter on 
 the tin, pour in the mixture and bake it an hour in a 
 moderate oven. When done it will feel firm to the 
 
APPENDIX. 183 
 
 touch, but the surest way to ascertain its condition is 
 to pass a clean broom corn through it. Turn it upon 
 a sieve to cool, as a cold plate would make it fall and 
 render it heavy. 
 
 MACAROONS. 
 
 Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, dry 
 them well on a sieve, pound them in a mortar, with a 
 pound and a half of cracked sugar, and pass the whole 
 through a wire sieve ; pound it in the mortar again 
 with the whites of two eggs, and after they are well 
 mixed, add the white of another, and so on until you 
 have used the whites of eight eggs. They will make 
 a soft paste, which may be laid upon paper in drops 
 the size of a walnut ; sift sugar over them and bake 
 in a slow oven till they are of a yellowish brown ; 
 they are done when they are firmly set. Take them 
 from the paper by wetting the under side of it. 
 
 RATAFRAS. 
 
 These are made like the above, but leaving out 
 two ounces of sweet, and substituting two of bitter 
 almonds. They require a warmer oven and more 
 time for baking. 
 
 CLOUTED CREAM. 
 
 Strain the milk, while warm from the cow, into % 
 pan so that it will be about three inches deep, and let 
 it stand for twenty-four hours. Place it then gently 
 upon a slow fire, that it may gradually grow warm, 
 but not boil, which would spoil it ; when the cream 
 forms a ring in the middle, put a little of it aside with 
 
184 APPENDIX. 
 
 the finger, and if a few bubbles rise in that spot, it is 
 done. It will generally take from half to three quar- 
 ters of an hour. Let it stand in a cool place another 
 twenty-four hours, then skim it and throw a little 
 sugar on the top of the cream. 
 
 MERINGUES A LA CUILLEREE. 
 
 Whisk the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, 
 pound and sift a quarter of a pound of crushed sugar, 
 sift it lightly over the egg, and mix it in perfectly but 
 gently with a wooden spoon. Then with a table-spoon 
 lay them on white paper in the shape of eggs, sift 
 powdered sugar thickly over them, let them stand ten 
 minutes, shake off the sugar that does not adhere, 
 place them on wetted boards, and put them into a very 
 moderate oven. When the outside becomes quite 
 crisp, turn them topsy-turvy and take off the papers, 
 dip a teaspoon into hot water and clear out the inside ; 
 dust "them with powdered sugar, dry them upon a 
 sieve, and when ready to use them, fill them with 
 whipped cream, and stick two together. 
 
 BRIOCHE ROLLS. 
 
 Place a quarter of a pound of flour upon a moulding 
 board, make a hole in the centre and pour in less than 
 a gill of warm water, in which you have dissolved a 
 quarter of an ounce of hard yeast ; mix it into a stiff 
 delicate paste, and lay it in a well floured basin, make 
 an incision across it, and place it in a warm place till 
 it is very light. Now place three fourths of a pound 
 of flour upon your board, and in a hole in the middle 
 put one eighth of an ounce of salt, two gills of rich, 
 
APPENDIX. 185 
 
 sweet cream, an eighth of a gill of water, and four 
 eggs ; mix it into a soft, flexible paste ; press it out 
 flat, lay the leaven upon it, folding it over and work- 
 ing the two till well amalgamated ; flour a clean cloth 
 and fold the paste into it, and let it remain all night. 
 In the morning mould it into small rolls, put them 
 on a baking sheet, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 FRENCH MUFFINS. 
 
 A quart of warm water in which has been dissolved 
 a quarter of a pound of hard yeast, and mixed with 
 sufficient flour to make rather a stiff batter ; set it in 
 a warm place, four hours, then stir it down and divide 
 it into pieces of a quarter of a pound each, which 
 mould with the hands, and put into wooden trays 
 containing a round bed of flour for each ; let them 
 stand two hours in a warm place, and cook them upon 
 an iron griddle, turning them over when nicely risen. 
 They will be baked in about ten minutes if the stove 
 is sufficiently hot. 
 
 POACHED EGGS. 
 
 Put four teaspoonfuls of vinegar, and half a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt into a pint of water. Place it over the fire in 
 a stew-pan, and when boiling, break the eggs into it as 
 near the surface of the water as possible ; let them boil 
 gently about three minutes ; take them out with a small 
 slice, and set them carefully upon thin slices of toast 
 laid ready in a hot dish. 
 
 BREAKFAST ROLLS. 
 
 Put four pounds of flour into an earthen pan, make 
 
186 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 a hole in the centre, and put in three pints of warm 
 water, a gill of brewer's yeast, or hard yeast well 
 dissolved, mix a little of the flour to form a leaven, 
 and set it in a warm place to rise. When the leaven 
 has risen and begun to fall, add a little salt and a pint 
 of warm milk, make a flexible dough, and set it in a 
 warm place for another hour. It is then ready to be 
 moulded into any desired shape. 
 
 HUSKS. 
 
 Place three pounds of flour upon the moulding- 
 board, and in a hole in the middle put two ounces of 
 hard yeast, dissolved in a pint of warm water, mix a 
 little of the flour with it to form a leaven, leave it in 
 a warm place to rise for half an hour, then add two 
 ounces of powdered sugar, and half a pint of thick, 
 sweet cream, dissolved in a little warm water. Mix 
 the whole into dough, and let it rise in a warm place, 
 then work it with the hands, divide it into three pieces, 
 each of which form into a long roll of about two inches 
 in thickness, place them on a buttered tin, four or five 
 inches apart, and put them in a warm place, occasion- 
 ally moistening the tops with milk ; bake them in a 
 moderate oven ; when cold, cut them in slices the 
 thickness of a copper cent, lay them upon a clean 
 baking sheet, and brown them in a moderate oven, 
 first on one side, then on the other. 
 
 SHEEP'S KIDNEYS. 
 
 Be sure that they are fresh, which you can tell by 
 smelling, cut them open lengthwise exactly in the 
 middle, thread them upon wooden skewers by passing 
 
APPENDIX. 187 
 
 the skewer twice through the white part of each, sea- 
 son them with a good deal of salt and a little pepper, 
 and place them on a gridiron, or soapstone griddle, 
 (inside downwards,) over a quick fire ; turn them over 
 in three minutes, and at the end of another three, they 
 will be done ; take them off the skewers and serve 
 them in a very hot dish. 
 
 If placed on thin slices of toast, and a little lemon 
 juice squeezed upon them, they will be improved. 
 
 If rolled well in well-beaten egg and then dipped in 
 bread crumbs, and broiled ten minutes, and a little 
 cream poured over them, they will be nicer still. Serve 
 always in a very hot dish. 
 
 SWEET LAIT DE POTTLE. (Good for a Cold.) 
 
 Beat together very thoroughly for ten minutes the 
 yolks of two eggs, two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar 
 and the eighth part of the rind of a lemon, grated; 
 then pour boiling water over, stirring it all the time. 
 It will make a large cupful. 
 
 A PLEASANT BEVERAGE. 
 
 Put four good apples, cut into slices, without peel- 
 ing them, into half a gallon of boiling water, and 
 when the apples have become quite soft, press them 
 gently on a sieve to extract all the liquid, add honey 
 or even brown sugar till sweet enough, and drink it 
 lukewarm. 
 
 Baked apples thrown into a jar, and having boiling 
 
188 APPENDIX. 
 
 water poured over them, covered from the air till cool, 
 and sweetened, make a very pleasant beverage to be 
 taken when cold. 
 
 BEVERAGE OF RASPBERRY VINEGAR. 
 
 Pour half a pint of boiling water upon two table- 
 spoonfuls of raspberry vinegar, or any kind of fruit 
 syrup. 
 
 FRENCH HERB BROTH. 
 
 This is a favorite beverage in France, taken in 
 spring. Boil a quart of water, throw in forty leaves 
 of sorrel, a cabbage lettuce, and ten sprigs of chevril, 
 all well washed. Add a teaspoonful of salt, and a gill 
 of cream. Cover the pan closely and let it simmer a 
 few minutes, then pass it through a sieve. 
 
 It is to be taken cold, and is considered very 
 healthful. 
 
 BEVERAGE OF FIGS AND APPLES. 
 
 Throw into two quarts of boiling water six fresh 
 dry figs, previously opened, and two apples, cut into 
 pieces ; let the whole, apple seeds, skins and all, boil 
 twenty minutes, then cool them a little in a basin, and 
 pass them through a sieve. The beverage will be 
 delicious, and the figs good to eat when drained. 
 
 FIG LEMONADE. 
 
 Put two moist dried figs, which have been cut in 
 two, into a stew-pan with a quart of cold water. Let 
 them boil a quarter of an hour, put in half the peel of 
 a lemon, and the half lemon itself cut in thin slices 
 
APPENDIX. 189 
 
 after it is peeled. Boil two minutes longer. Pour 
 the whole into a jug and cover it with a paper till 
 cool, then pass it through a sieve, and add a teaspoon- 
 ful of honey. 
 
 IMPERIAL BEVERAGE. (For Spring.) 
 
 Place two ounces of cream of tartar, two lemons, 
 juice and peel, and four ounces of sugar in a jug ; 
 pour on six quarts of boiling water ; when cold, bottle 
 it. Instead of sugar, three table-spoonfuls of rasp- 
 berry vinegar and six ounces of honey may be used. 
 This is a very refreshing drink. 
 
 TOAST WATER. 
 
 This excellent beverage for invalids is generally 
 spoiled in the making. Cut a piece of crusty bread, 
 about a quarter of a pound in weight, toast it upon a 
 toasting fork till of a rich brown color, put into a jug 
 or large pitcher, and pour over it three quarts of boil- 
 ing water ; cover the jug with paper until it is cold, 
 then strain it, for if the toast is left in it, it will soon 
 ferment. It will keep several days if bottled. The 
 bread must never be burnt. 
 
 THE END 
 
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12 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY TICKNOR AND FIELDS. 
 
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