O^*^- THE NEW ENGLAND COOK BOOK THE NEW ENGLAND COOK BOOK BY HELEN S. WRIGHT NEW YORK DUFFIELD Si COMPANY 1912 <\\ Copyright 1912, By DUFFIELD & COMPANY //^ Contents PAGE Introduction . . . xxix SOUPS Asparagus Soup ...... i., , ,., ,., 1 Brown Gravy Soup • • !•> , »i 1 Calf's Head Soup , , »i s Carrot Soup , , ^ »j : 3 Celery Soup • l»i 4 Corn Soup . , , ►; ; 5 Green Pea Soup • ; '•■ ►; 1 5 Oyster Soup ,, j„ „ »i ; 6 Ox-Head Soup . , ., 7 Ox-Tail Soup . . • .1 8 Old Peas Soup . , , •- k»J .« ! „ 10 Pigeon Soup > ( ►, I •; i«j u »1 i« •1 !• . 10 Veal Stock . ,. . ». fi •t i»i . 11 Venison Soup , , »■ i»j .t ►i u •J .< 11 EGGS Eggs and Bacon Ragout Eggs Boiled .... Eggs Bourgeoise Eggs Buttered . 12 12 13 13 m vi The New England Cook Book PAGE Eggs and Cream 13 Eggs en Surprise 14 Eggs Fried 14 Eggs Fried and Minced Ham . . ... 14 Egg Fritters 15 Egg Frizzle 15 Eggs Frothed 16 Ham and Eggs 16 Omelet, 1, 2, 3, 4 16-18 Omelet with Kidney of Veal 18 Omelet au Naturel 18 To Keep Eggs 19 FISH AND SHELL-FISH Fish ConsommS .., . 20 Clam PurSe 20 New England Clam Chowder 21 Codfish Balls 21 Creamed Salt Cod 22 Cod Pie 22 Codfish Relish, 1, 2 22-23 Soft Shell Crabs 23 Devil Crabs 23 Escalloped Fish 24 Fish RechauffS 24 Flounders Boiled 25 Fried Eels 25 Herrings to Bake . 25 Herrings Boiled 26 Herrings to Fry 26 Contents Vll Herrings, Red Salt Herrings Lobster, or Crabs Buttered Lobster X la Braise Lobster Fricassee . Lobster Newburgh Lobster Patties, 1, 2 Lobster Pie . Mackerel Baked Mackerel Boiled Mackerel Broiled Oysters Baked in Shells Oyster Bisque . Fried Oysters Scalloped Oysters Spiced Oysters . Stewed Oysters, 1, Oyster Pie . Perch Boiled . Perch Broiled . Perch with Wine Pickerel Baked Baked Pike . Boiled Pike . Salmon Baked Salmon Boiled Fried Scallops Shad Baked . Shad Roe Smelts Broiled Smelts viii The New England Cook Book PAGE Sturgeon 41 To Collar Trout 42 To Broil Trout . ^ ...... . 42 To Fry Trout 42 Turbot, Baked 43 TuRBOT, Breaded 43 TuRBOT^ Stuffed and Baked ...... 43 TuRBOT, Grilled 44 TuRBOT, WITH White Sauce 44 VEGETABLES Asparagus 45 Asparagus^ Boiled 45 Asparagus and Eggs 45 Boston Baked Beans 46 Beets 46 Cucumbers 47 Cabbage 47 Cauliflowers 47 Shelled Beans 48 String Beans 48 Boiled Corn 48 Corn Oysters 49 Egg Plant 49 Greens 49 Macaroni 50 Macaroni Dressed Sweet 50 Macaroni Gratin 50 Macaroni Timbale 51 Stewed Mushrooms 51 Contents ix PAGE Okras 51 Onions 52 Onions, Plain Boiled ........ 52 Onions, Roast 52 Onions, Stewed . . . ,. . . . . . 53 Parsnips ,. . . 53 Peas ...... i.. i., i.j ..• i.. i.. . ,. 53 To Boil Potatoes . . ;. r. ..... 5^ Potato Balls . ;. i.i i.i ci i. i. i. . . 55 Baked Potatoes . i., ,., i.. . .... 55 Mashed Potatoes . .. .., ,. . . .. . . 55 Potatoes to Fry . .i i. !.. . • . . . 5Q Potato Fritters ...... ,., ... 5Q Potatoes, Fried in Ribbons 57 Potatoes, Fried Whole . . .. . . . . 57 Potatoes, Scalloped .....> ,. ,. . . 58 Potato Snow . ... ,-. i, i., .. . . 58 Sweet Potatoes . . ., .i i.i i.j ■,•■. . . 58 Rice Cheese . . . . i. i.i :••, m i*i . . 59 Rice Croquettes . . . ., . r.i w .i . 59 Salsify, or Oyster Plant, 1, 2, 3, 4 . . . . 60 Succotash , i., i.i i.i i. ,., 6l Summer Squash ......; ;.; .... 61 Winter Squash .... .. :., ,. ... 62 Spinage .: ., I.I ;.i > . 62 Turnips .• :. . . 63 Young White Turnips ........ QS Turnip Tops ,. 63 Turnips, to Boil 64 Mashed Turnips 64? xii The New England Cook Book PAGE Winter Hotch-Potch 97 Veal Cheese 98 Veal, Cold Dressed 98 Veal Cones 99 Veal Cutlets, 1, 2 99-100 Veal Forcemeat 100 Veal Roll 101 Veal Sausages 101 Veal Fillet, Stewed 101 Veal Semelles 102 Veal Sweetbreads, Roasted 102 Velout^ 103 Baked Pork and Beans 104 POULTRY AND GAME Capon 106 Chicken Creme 106 Chicken Curry 107 Chicken Baked in Rice 107 Chickens Fricassee 108 Chicken Pie 108 Coddled Birds 109 Duck Pie 109 Roasted Ducks 110 Tremont Duckling 110 Wild Ducks Ill Fowl, Broiled Ill Fowl with its Own Gravy Ill Fowl X la Hollandaise 112 Fowl Boiled with Rice 112 Contents xm PAGE Fowl Roasted with Chestnuts 113 GiBLET Pie 113 Goose, Roasted 114 Hare 114 Hare, Jugged 115 Larks Il6 Pigeon Pie Il6 Pigeons with Rice and Parmesan Cheese . . 117 Broiled Pheasants 118 To Dress Plovers 118 Quail 118 Roasted Stuffed Quail . . . . . . . 119 Quails, Roasted , . . . . 119 Quails, Stewed ...... .^ . :. . . 120 Rabbit, Broiled 120 Rabbits in a Fricassee ......... 120 Rabbits, Roasted 121 Squabs, Baked .......... 122 Squabs, Roasted 122 Turkey, Hashed, 1, 2 , . . 123 Roasted Turkey 123 Turkey, Stuffed with Sausages and Chestnuts 124 Wild Goose 124 Woodcocks , . 125 Woodcock Salmis ....-.• ,. ,. ., 125 Woodcocks in a Minute . . ., .. . ;. . 125 Woodcocks in Gravy .. :. .. ... i., i.j i. ,. 126 xiv The Neto England Cook Book SAUCES FOR MEATS, POULTRY, FISH AND GAME Anchovy Sauce . Beef-Gravy Sauce Cream Sauce Chestnut Sauce for Roast Turkey Currant Sauce for Venison Brown Sauce Drawn Butter . Egg Sauce Fish Gravy . GiBLET Sauce Horseradish Sauce Sauce for Fish . Mint Sauce, 1, 2 Mock Oyster Sauce Mushroom Sauce, 1, 2 Lobster Sauce . Onion Sauce Orange Gravy Sauce Oyster Sauce Piquant Sauce, 1, 2 Sharp Sauce, for Venison Sauce for Steaks or Chops Superlative Sauce, 1, 2 Tartare Sauce, 1, 2 . Truffle Sauce . White Sauce for Fish . White Onion Sauce PAGE . 127 . 127 . 128 . 129 . 129 . 129 . 130 . 130 . 130 . 131 . 131 . 131 . 132 . 132 132-133 . 133 . 134i . 134 . 135 135-136 . 136 . 137 137-138 138-139 . 139 . 139 . 140 Con tents XV PAGB White Sauce, for Fowls OR Turkey . . 140 Wine Sauce for Venison OR Hare . • 141 SALADS Asparagus Salad . . 1 142 Berkshire Salad . . .• • ! I»t H ■•1 142 Boston Salad •', !•< .. ;»i , , 142 Cauliflower Salad • {•: '.I .: 1. . 142 Chicken Salad . . :. !•: :•; « »: « !•! H , 143 Corn Salad . !•: I*; 1 t « 1 :»j • . 144 Crab Salad . • :•. t«j i»i 1 • > K 1 ;•; i< . 144 Fruit Salad . • i»i i»j i»j ►. l»J « , 144 Herring Salad • !•; :•< :•. ,« > l< . 145 Lenox Salad , 145 Lobster Salad , 145 Maine Salad . 146 Shaker Salad . 146 Shrimp Salad 146 -147 Spinage Salad , 147 Stuffed Tomato Salad , 147 Tomato and Green Pepper Salad . 147 Vegetable Salad . . . . • 148 SALAD DRESSINGS Dressing for Cold Slaw • . • • • , , 149 Chive Dressing . • • • • • , , 149 Curry Dressing . . . ••• ■• • «' • , , 149 French Dressing ^ ■• • . • • , . 150 Mayonnaise Dressing, 1, 2 .... . , 150 -151 Salad Dressing . . > '. • • • , 151 Sauterne Dressi] SG . . • ■• > ■• •« , 152 xvi The New England Cook Book DESSERTS, PUDDINGS, PIES AND TARTS PAGE Apple Custard . . . . ..... . . . 153 Boiled Apple Pudding . . 153 Apple Sauce 154 Custard 154 Berry Pudding, 1, 2 154-155 Baked Indian Pudding, 1, 2 155-156 Boiled Indian Pudding 156 Boston Pudding 157 CocoANUT Pudding 158 Floating Island 159 Fruit Suet Pudding 159 Mush, or Hasty Pudding 159 Orange Pudding ......... l60 Railroad Pudding l6l Rice Pudding l6l Boiled Plum Pudding ........ 162 Sago Pudding 162 Salem Pudding 162 Sweet Potato Pudding 163 Suet Pudding . . . l64 Plain Paste . 164 Tart Paste, for Family Pies 165 Apple Tart, Creamed , .... 165 Cherry Tart 166 Cranberry Tart 166 Currant Tart 166 Tartlets l67 Contents xvii PAGE Tart of Preserved Fruit, 1, 2 . . . . 167-168 Tarts of Ripe Fruits 168 Rhubarb Tart 169 Mince Meat 169 Trifle 170 Whim Wham 170 SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS AND OTHER DESSERTS Lemon Sauce 171 Pudding Sauce 171 Hard Sauce 171 Brandy Sauce 172 Pineapple Sauce 172 Strawberry Sauce 172 Icing for Fruit Tarts, Puffs, or Pastry . . 172 FROZEN DESSERTS, ICE CREAMS AND SHERBETS Ice Creams 173 Vanilla Cream 173 Chocolate 174? Strawberry 174 Orange Water Ice 174 Coffee Jelly 175 Lemon Jelly 175 Wine Jelly 176 Grape Sherbet 176 Lemon Sherbet 176 xvm Tlie New England Cook Book PAGE Milk Sherbet 177 Pineapple Sherbet 177 Charlotte Russe 178 Little Creams of Chestnuts 179 BREAD, BISCUITS AND CAKES Bread 180 Bread Sticks >; ,., i. . 181 Cinnamon or Currant Buns . .... . 181 Boston Corn Cake ,. . 181 Buttermilk Biscuit • . . 182 Cream Biscuit 182 Cream of Tartar Biscuit Without Milk . . 183 Fried Biscuit 183 Boston Brown Bread, !;> 2, 3 184-185 Graham Bread 186 Indian Loaf 186 Litchfield Crackers 187 Parker House Rolls 187 Rye Bread 188 Albany Breakfast Cakes ....... 189 Bridget's Bread Cake ........ 189 Caraway Cakes, 1,2. . . . . . . . 190 Crullers 191 Doughnuts > .. . . . 191 Raised Doughnuts 192 FOURRES 192 Apple Sauce Cake 193 Fruit Cake Without Eggs 193 Ginger Bread 194 Contents xix PAGE GiNGERNUTS 194< Ginger Snaps 195 Golden Cake 195 Silver Cake 196 Indian Bannock 196 Jenny Lind 197 Nun's Beads 197 New England Squash Cakes 198 Maple Cake 198 Nut Loaf 199 Old Hartford Election Cake 199 Plum Cake 200 Pound Cake 201 Sachem's Head Corn Cake 201 Sally Lunn, 1, 2 202 Tipsy Cake 203 Walnut Hill Doughnuts 203 Coffee Filling 203 Chocolate Filling 204 Lemon Filling 204 Lemon Filling and Meringue 205 BEVERAGES Coffee 206 Tea 206 Russian Tea 206 Tea Punch . 207 Cocoa 207 Grape Nectar 208 Grape Punch 208 XX The New England Cook Book PAGE Old Medford Punch 208 Raspberry Vinegar 209 Webster's Punch 209 Flip 209 Syllabubs 210 Common Syllabub 210 Syllabub^ Whipt, 1, 2 210-211 Syllabub, Stratfordshire 211 Somersetshire Syllabub . 211 Beef Tea 212 Bruiss 212 PICKLES Artichokes 213 To Keep Artichokes in Pickle 213 To Pickle Asparagus, 1, 2 213-214 To Pickle Barberries, 1,2 214 To Pickle French Beans 215 To Pickle Kidney Beans 215 Beet Roots 216 To Pickle Broom Buds 216 Pickled Cabbage 216 To Pickle Red Cabbage 217 Red Cabbage 217 Old-Fashioned Recipe for Catsup, 1, 2, 3 . 218-219 Cauliflowers 219 Salted Cherries 219 Chili Sauce 220 Chow-Chow 220 Chutney Leaves 221 Contents xxi PAGE Chutney Sauce 221 To Pickle Codlins 222 Cold Pickles 222 cornichons 223 To Mango Cucumbers 224 To Pickle Cucumbers 224 To Pickle Cucumbers in Slices .... 224 Spiced Currants, I, 2, 3 225-226 Dill Pickles 226 Dutch Pickle 226 To Pickle Elder Buds 227 English Salad Pickle 227 French Pickle . 228 Garlic and Eschalots 228 Gherkins or Young Cucumbers 228 Spiced Grape, 1, 2, 3 229-230 Green Tomato Pickles 230 Green Tomato Soy 231 A Pickle in Imitation of Indian Bambol . . 231 Indian Pickle 232 Indian Relish 234 To Make English Catsup 235 To Pickle Lemons 235 To Pickle Lobsters 236 To Pickle Mangoes 236 To Make Melon Mangoes 237 Melons, Mangoes and Long Cucumbers . . 238 Sweet Pickled Melons 238 Mushrooms 239 Mushroom Catsup 240 To Pickle Mushrooms 240 xxii The New England Cook Book PAGE Mustard Pickle 241 To Pickle Nasturtiums 241 To Pickle Nasturtium Buds 241 Pickled Nuts (Butternuts and Walnuts) . . 242 Onions 243 To Pickle Small Onions 243 To Pickle Oysters 243 To Pickle Parsley Green 244 Pickled Peaches 244 Sweet Pickled Plums or Peaches .... 245 Pickled Pears 246 Sweet Pickled Pears 246 Pepper Relish 247 PlCALILLI 247 Pickled Plums 248 Spiced Plums 248 Sweet Pickled Plums 248 Pickle Quince 249 To Pickle Radishes 249 To Pickle Radish Pods 249 Pickled Raisins 250 Salamagundi 250 To Pickle Samphire^ 1, 2 250-251 Shirley Sauce 251 To Pickle Sprats for Anchovies .... 252 To Pickle Sparrows or Squab-Pigeons . . 252 Chopped Tomato Pickle 253 Sweet Pickled Tomatoes, 1, 2 . . . . 253-254 Tomato Mangoes .... .. . ,., . . 254 Tomato Relish ...... ., ,.. . ,. . . 254 Contents xxiii PAGE To Pickle Walnuts 255 Pickled Watermelon Rind ^56 Sweet Pickled Watermelon Rind .... 256 Worcestershire Sauce . . . . . . . 257 PRESERVES Apricot or Any Plum Jam 258. Apricot Marmalade 259 To Preserve Apricots 259 To Preserve Barberries 259 Barberry Sauce with Sweet Apple .... 260 Imitation Bar-le-Duc 260 Bramble and Apple 261 Preserved Cherries, 1, 2 261 Cherries in Brandy 262 To Make Marmalade of Cherries .... 262 To Preserve Cherries Without Boiling . . 262 To Preserve Green Codlings 263 Compote of Chestnuts 263 To Preserve Citron Melon 264 Cranberry Jelly, 1, 2 264 Currant Jelly 265 To Dry Currants in Bunches 265 To Preserve Cucumbers, 1, 2 266 To Preserve Small Cucumbers 267 To Preserve Currants in Jelly .... 268 Currants Preserved Without Cooking . . . 268 Preserve Currants in Bunches ..... 268 To Bottle Damsons or Gooseberries * . . 269 Damson Cheese . ., ,. . ..i .., i.. .„ • . 269 xxiv The New England Cook Book PAGE To Preserve Damsons Whole 270 Figs and Walnuts 271 Four-Fruit Jam 271 Gel]^e Des Quartre Fruits 271 To Preserve Ginger 272 To Preserve Gooseberries 273 To Preserve Gooseberries in Hops . . . 273 To Make Gooseberry Jam 274« Gooseberry Jam 274 Grape Marmalade 274 Jams 275 To Make Jelly 275 Lemon Preserve 276 Marmalade 276 To Make White Marmalade 277 Vegetable Marrow 277 To Preserve Mulberries Whole 277 Orange Marmalade 278 Oriental Marmalade 278 To Preserve Oranges Whole, 1, 2 . . . . 279 To Make White Quince Paste 280 Brandy Peaches 281 Peach Marmalade 281 Compote of Pears 282 To Preserve Green Pineapples 282 Preserved Pineapple, 1, 2 283-284 To Preserve Golden Pippins 284 Plum Compote 285 To Preserve Black Pear-Plums .... 285 To Preserve. Plums Green 286 To Preserve Green Plums 287 Contents xxv PAGE To Preserve White Pear-Plums .... 287 Preserve Pumpkin 288 To Make White Jelly of Quinces . . . 289 To Make Quince Marmalade 289 To Preserve Whole Quinces White . . . 290 Raspberry Jam, 1, 2 290,291 To Preserve Raspberries in Jelly . . . .291 Rhubarb Jam 291 Rhubarb Marmalade 292 To Preserve Sprigs Green 292 Strawberries . . . 293 Strawberry Jam 293 Strawberry Jelly 293 Strawberry Marmalade 294 Strawberries, Raspberries, Gooseberries and Currants 294 To Make Syrup of Orange Peel 294 Syrup for Preserves 295 Green Tomato Preserve 295 Tomato Marmalade, 1, 2 296 CANDIES AND CONSERVES Burnt Almonds 297 To pRicAssfE Almonds . . . . . . . 297 To Parch Almonds 298 To Make Almond Wafers 298 To Candy Angelica 298 To Make Apricot Chips 299 To Dry Apricots Like Prunellos .... 299 Barley Sugar 300 xxvi The New England Cook Book PAGE Barley Sugar Drops 300 To Conserve Cherries 301 Chocolate Caramels^ 1, 2 .... . 301,302 Chocolate Cream Candy . 302 Chocolate Creams 302 Chocolate Drops 303 Cocoanut Candy 303 Cream Candy 303 Everton Taffy Candy, 1^ 2 304 Fig Candy 304 Tomato Figs .......... 305 To Candy Flowers 305 To Candy Any Sort of Flowers .... 306 To Make Candy Cakes of Flowers . . . 306 Fondant 307 Fruit Candy 307 Candied Fruit 308 To Candy Any Fruit 309 Marshmallow Fudge 309 Green Gages Preserved in Syrup .... 310 Ginger Candy 310 Ginger Lozenge Candy 311 Lemon Candy 311 Lemon Chips 311 Lemon Drops 312 Maple Sugar Candy with Nuts 313 To Make Marchpane Unboiled 313 Marrons Glac£s 314 Molasses Candy, 1, 2, 3 314-315 Nougat 315 Nut Candy . 316 Contents xxvii PAGE Orange Drops 316 To Make Orange Chips 317 To Candy Orange Flowers, 1, 2 . . . 317-318 To Make Pastils 318 GLAcf Nuts 318 Glace Peaches 319 Peanut Brittle 319 Peppermint Drops 319 PiNOCHI 320 Popcorn Balls 320 Candied Popcorn 321 Crystallized Popcorn 321 Prune Dainty . 322 To Make Conserve of Red Roses .... 322 To Make Rose Drops 322 Scotch Butter Candy 323 Sugared Dates 323 To Make Sugar of Roses 323 To Clarify Sugar for Candies 324 To Boil Sugar Candy High 324 Taffy 325 Taffy Candy 325 Turkish Delight 326 Common Twist Candy ......... 326 English Walnut Creams . ... ,.: . . 327 Creamed Walnuts . . . ...... . 327 Introduction Kindly lend a hand and help me pull from under those dusty eaves that old haircloth trunk. How the key grates in the rusty padlock ; lift the lid gently lest the creaking hinges snap. What is that pungent sweetness that greets you? The aroma of her spice bag; and the withered stalks and shriveled leaves that lie scattered so profusely ; sweet lavender and thyme. Here under this yellow bit of homespun linen is her pelerine, and this her callashe, and these her lace mitts and pattens. Lift carefully and reverently, for underneath is her wedding-gown of softest muslin, short-waisted, with tiny puffs for sleeves, a broad satin fold about the hem — and this rare lace, her veil. Here is her jewel-box, and in it the brooch she wore, and these, her corals. What are those, you ask. His knee- buckles and the jeweled buttons of his coat. Let us look again into the trunk ; here is his ruffled shirt, and there his satin small clothes and brocaded vest, and this bit of black, the ribbon that tied his powdered hair. xxix XXX Introduction You have found some old books and papers. An old commission dated 1758, with Pownall's signature and the seal of George II. Here is a Salem Gazette, 17 — , but the date has been obliterated. And there is a book of recipes, written in her fine small hand, and this well-worn book, her " House- wife's Manual " ; against the margin are comments of her own : — " John liked this " ; " This is very good, I made some last autumn and found it excellent." " Last autumn ! " The past autumn of a hundred years, but she assures us the recipe is excellent, and I take her word. Yes, you agree, the old recipes were good. Did I hear you say your grandmother made the best preserves you ever tasted from the recipes her grandmother had taught her? Do you remember that jam we used to have on thick slices of delicious bread.? And those big green pickled limes that we used to steal and carry to school in coarse brown paper, and surreptitiously suck behind our desks? Did you not love the barley sugar and the march- pane that grandmother would smuggle into us? You who prize an old brass kettle, a pewter mug, a compote dish of rare old china, because tradition clusters round it, because some ancestor has used it, may enjoy these old-fashioned sweets and dainties. Here they are, these old-time recipes, and each year the luscious fruits and fragrant flowers of which Introduction xxxi many are composed, bloom as temptingly and cheer- fully as they did centuries ago. Perhaps you can make something your John will like, or mayhap you will be content to write upon the margin of your volume, "By their fruits ye shall judge them." THE NEW ENGLAND COOK BOOK Soups ASPARAGUS SOUP This is made with the points of asparagus, in the same manner as the green peas soup is with peas. Let half the asparagus be rubbed through a sieve, and the other cut in pieces about an inch long, and boiled till done enough, and sent up in the soup. To make 2 quarts, there must be 1 pint of heads to thicken it, and ^ pint cut in ; take care to preserve these green and a little crisp. This soup is sometimes made by adding the asparagus heads to common peas soup. BROWN GRAVY SOUP Take 8 pounds of a leg or shin of beef, cut off the meat in bits, rub the bottom of the pot with 1 2 The New England Cook Booh butter, put in the meat, let It brown, turning it constantly, break the bone and take out the mar- row, which may be kept for a pudding, but it is considered better than butter to brown the meat with ; put to it 8 quarts of cold water, and the bones ; when it boils, skim it perfectly clean, and add 3 good-sized red onions, one carrot cut in three, -J head of celery, a small handful of whole black and Jamaica pepper mixed; let this boil very gently ten or twelve hours, closely covered; strain it through a colander, and then through a hair sieve, into a large pan, to be kept for use. Return the meat and bones into the pot with 2 quarts of hot water; let it boil one and a half hours, and strain it off. This makes good stock for gravies, stews, or any made dishes. When it is to be boiled to send to table, first boil vermicelli, or macaroni, in a little salt and water, till tender; strain it, and add it to the soup just be- fore serving. This soup is quite pure, and requires no clearing. It is a most convenient thing to have in a house in cold weather, as it is always ready for use; and, served with dry toast to eat with it, makes an acceptable luncheon. The trimmings of meat, giblets, and bones, may be boiled with the beef for this soup. Soups 3 CALF'S HEAD, OR MOCK TURTLE SOUP Parboil a calf's head, take off the skin and cut it in bits about an inch and a half square, cut the fleshy parts in bits, take out the black part of the eyes, and cut the rest in rings, skin the tongue, and cut it in slices, add it all to 3 quarts of good stock, and season it with cayenne, 2 or 3 blades of mace, salt, the peel of ^ lemon, and ^ pint of white wine, with about a dozen of force-meat balls ; stew all this an hour and a half; rub down with a little cold water, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well amongst it ^ pint of the soup, and then stir it into the pot; put in the juice of | lemon, and the hard-boiled yolks of 8 eggs; let it simmer for ten minutes, and then put it all in the tureen. CARROT SOUP Scrape and wash J dozen large carrots; peel off the red outside (which is the only part used for this soup), put it into a gallon stewpan, with 1 head of celery, and an onion, cut into thin pieces ; take 2 quarts of beef, veal, or mutton broth, or if you have any cold roast beef bones (or liquor, in which mut- ton or beef has been boiled), you may make very good broth for this soup. When you have put the 4 The New England Cook Booh broth to the roots, cover the stewpan close, and set it on a slow stove for 2j hours, when the carrots will be soft enough (some cooks put in teacup ful of bread crumbs); boil for 2 or 3 minutes; rub it through a tamis, or hair sieve, with a wooden spoon, and add as much broth as will make it a proper thicknessj i.e., almost as thick as peas soup: put it into a clean stewpan ; make it hot ; season it with a little salt, and send it up with some toasted bread, cut into pieces ^ inch square. Some put it into the soup ; but the best way is to send it up on a plate, as a side dish. CELERY SOUP Split "I dozen heads of celery into slips about 9, inches long ; wash them well ; lay them on a hair sieve to drain, and put them into 3 quarts of clear gravy soup in a gallon soup-pot ; set it by the side of the fire to stew very gently till the celery is tender (this will take about 1 hour). If any scum rises, take it off; season with a little salt. Obs. — When celery cannot be procured, ^ drachm of the seed, pounded fine, which may be considered as the essence of celery, put in ^ hour before the soup is done, and a little sugar, will give as much flavor to J gallon of soup as 2 heads of celery weigh- ing 7 ounces, or add a little essence of celery. Soups 5 COllNSOUP Cut the corn off the cob, and boil the cobs ^ hour in the water ; then take them out, put in the corn and boil it 20 minutes or ^ hour. If there is 1 quart of the corn and water, add 1 pint of new milk, with salt, pepper, and 1 or 2 beaten eggs. Continue the boiling a few minutes, and thicken it with a little flour. GREEN PEA SOUP A peck of peas will make you a good tureen of soup. In shelling them, put the older ones in 1 basin, and the young ones in another, and keep out a pint of them, and boil them separately to put into your soup when it is finished: put a large saucepan on the fire half full of water; when it boils, put the peas in, with a handful of salt; let them boil till they are done enough, i.e., from 20 to 30 minutes, according to their age and size; then drain them in a colander, and put them into a clean gallon stewpan, and S quarts of plain veal or mutton broth (drawn from meat without any spices or herbs, etc., which would overpower the flavor of the soup) ; cover the stew- pan close, and set it over a slow fire to stew gently for an hour; add a teacupful of bread crumbs, and then rub it through a tamis into another stewpan ; stir 6 The New England Cook Book it with a wooden spoon, and if it is too thick, add a httle more broth; have ready boiled as for eating, a pint of young peas, and put them into the soup; season with a httle salt and sugar. Some cooks, while this soup is going on, slice a couple of cucumbers (as you would for eating) ; take out the seeds ; lay them on a cloth to drain, and then flour them, and fry them a light brown in a little but- ter; put them into the soup the last thing before it goes to table. If the soup is not green enough, pound a handful of pea-hulls or spinach, and squeeze the juice through a cloth into the soup; some leaves of mint may be added, if approved. OYSTER SOUP 3 pints of large fresh oysters, S tablespoonfuls of butter, rolled in flour, A bunch of sweet herbs, A saucer full of chopped celery, 1 quart of rich milk. Pepper to your taste. Take the liquor of 3 pints of oysters. Strain it, and set it on the fire. Put into it, pepper to your taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter rolled in flour, and a bunch of sweet marjoram and other pot-herbs, with a saucer full of chopped celery. When it boils, add Soups 7 a quart of rich milk — and as soon as it boils again, take out the herbs, and put in the oysters just before you send it to table. Boiling them in the soup will shrivel them and destroy their taste. Leave in the celery. Toast several slices of bread. Cut them into small squares, and put them into the soup before it goes to table. OX-HEAD SOUP Should be prepared the day before it is to be eaten, as you cannot cut the meat off the head into neat mouthf uls unless it is cold ; therefore, the day before you want this soup, put ^ ox-cheek into a tub of cold water to soak for a couple of hours ; then break the bones that have not been broken at the butcher's, and wash it very well in warm water; put it into a pot, and cover it with cold water; when it boils, skim it very clean, and then put in 1 head of celery, a couple of carrots, a turnip, 2 large onions, 2 dozen berries of black pepper, same of allspice, and a bundle of sweet herbs, such as marjoram, lemon, thyme, savory, and a handful of parsley; cover the soup-pot close, and set it on a slow fire; take off the scum, which will rise when it is coming to a boil, and set it by the fireside to stew very gently for about 3 hours; take out the head, lay it on a dish, pour the soup through a fine sieve into a stoneware pan, and 8 The New England Cook Booh set it and the head by in a cool place till the next day; then cut the meat into neat mouthfuls, skim and strain off the broth, put 2 quarts of it and the meat into a clean stewpan, let it simmer very gently for ^ hour longer, and it is ready. If you wish it thickened, put 2 ounces of butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, throw in as much flour as will dry it up ; when they are all well mixed together, and browned by degrees, pour to this your soup, and stir it well together; let it simmer for ^ hour longer; strain it through a hair sieve into a clean stewpan, and put it to the meat of the head; let it stew ^ hour longer, and season it with cayenne pepper, salt, and a glass of good wine, or a tablespoonful of brandy. If you serve it as soup for a dozen people, thicken 1 tureen, and send up the meat in that; and send up the other as a clear gravy soup, with some of the carrots and turnips shredded, or cut into shapes. OX-TAIL SOUP Three tails will make a tureen of soup (desire the butcher to divide them at the joints) ; lay them to soak in warm water, while you get ready the vege- tables. Put into a gallon stewpan 8 cloves, 2 or 3 onions, ^ drachm of allspice, and the same of black pepper, and the tails ; cover them with cold water ; skim it Soups 9 carefully, as long as you sec any scum rise; then cover the pot as close as possible, and set it on the side of the fire to keep gently simmering till the meat becomes tender and will leave the bones easily, because it is to be eaten with a spoon, without the assistance of a knife or fork; this will require about 2 hours. Mind it is not done too much. When perfectly tender, take out the meat and cut it off the bones, in neat mouthfuls; skim the broth, and strain it through a sieve ; if you prefer a thick- ened soup, put flour and butter, as directed in the preceding receipt ; or put 2 tablespoonf uls of the fat you have taken off the broth into a clean stewpan, with as much flour as will make it into a paste; set this over the fire, and stir them well together; then pour in the broth by degrees, stirring it, and mix- ing it with the thickening; let it simmer for another ^ hour, and when you have well skimmed it, and it is quite smooth, then strain it through a tamis into a clean stewpan, put in the meat, with a tablespoon- ful of mushroom catsup, a glass of wine, and season it with salt. Obs. — If the meat is cut off the bones, you must have 3 tails for a tureen, some put an ox-cheek or tails in an earthen pan, with all the ingredients as above, and send them to a slow oven for 5 or 6 hours. 10 The New England Cook Book OLD PEAS SOUP Put 1^ pounds of split peas on in 4 quarts of water, with roast beef or mutton bones, and a ham bone, 2 heads of celery, and 4 onions, let tlaem boil till the peas be sufficiently soft to pulp through a sieve, strain it, put it into the pot with pepper and salt, and boil it nearly an hour. Two or S handfuls of spinach, well washed and cut a little, added when the soup is strained, is a great improvement; and in the summer young green peas in place of spinach. A teaspoonful of celery seed, or essence of celery, if celery is not to be had. PIGEON SOUP Have a strong beef stock, highly seasoned, and if for rich soup, take 6 or 8 pigeons according to their size, wash them clean, cut the necks, pinions, livers and gizzards, and put them into the stock; quar- ter the pigeons and brown them nicely ; after having strained the stock, put in the pigeons ; let them boil till nearly ready, which will be in about ^ hour, then thicken it with a little flour, rubbed down In a tea- cupful of the soup, season it with a grated nutmeg, 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice or of vinegar, and 1 of mushroom catsup; let it boil a few minutes after all these ingredients are put in, and serve it with the pigeons in the tureen ; a better thickening than flour Soups 11 IS to boil quite tender 2 of the pigeons, take off all the meat and pound it in a mortar, rub it through a sieve, and put it, with the cut pigeons, into the strained soup. To make partridge soup, partridges may be substituted for pigeons, when only 4 birds will be required; pound the breast of one. VEAL STOCK Cut a leg of veal and some lean ham into pieces; put them into a saucepan, with a quart of water, some carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, and celery; stew them down till nearly done, but do not let it color; then add a sufficient quantity of beef stock to cover the ingredients, and let it boil for an hour ; skim off all the fat, and strain it; a little game stewed down with the above will greatly improve the flavor; be particularly careful that It does not burn. VENISON SOUP Boll down in 5 quarts of water S pounds of a shank of veal, or fowl, and 5 pounds of the breast of venison cut small; 2 or 3 onions chopped, some whole white pepper and salt, with ^ pound of lean ham. Let It stew till it be completely boiled down, when all the strength will be extracted ; rub It through a sieve, thicken it with a little butter, kneaded In flour, and add 1 pint of Madeira, and boil It for ^ hour or 20 minutes. Eggs EGGS AND BACON RAGOUT Boil i dozen eggs for 10 minutes; throw them into cold water; peel them and cut them into halves; pound the yolks, with about an equal quantity of the white meat of dressed fowl, or veal, a little chopped parsley, an anchovy, an eschalot, J ounce of butter, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, a little cayenne, some bread crumbs, and a very little beaten mace, or allspice; incorporate them well to- gether, and fill the halves of the whites with this mix- ture; do them over with the yolk of an egg, brown them in the oven, and serve them on relishing rashers of bacon or ham. EGGS BOILED, TO EAT IN THE SHELL, OR FOR SALADS The fresher laid the better. Put them into boil- ing water; if you like the white just set, about 2 minutes' boiling is enough; a new-laid egg will take 12 Eggs 13 a little more; if jou wish the yolk to be set, it will take 3, and to boil it hard for a salad, 10 minutes. A new-laid eg^ will require boiling longer than a stale one, by ^ minute. EGGS BOURGEOISE Spread some butter over the bottom of a dish, cover it entirely with thin slices of crumb of bread, on that lay thin slices of cheese, then 8 or 10 eggs; season them with salt, pepper and nutmeg; set the dish over a stove to cook gently till done. EGGS BUTTERED Beat and strain 10 or 12 eggs; put a piece of butter into a saucepan and keep turning it one way till melted; put in the beaten eggs, and stir them round with a silver spoon till they become quite thick. Serv^e them in a dish upon buttered toast. They may be eaten with fish, fowl, or sausages. EGGS AND CREAM Boil ^ pint of cream till reduced to half the quan- tity ; then add 8 eggs, season them with salt and pep- per, boil them together, till the eggs are partly hard ; pass a salamander over the top, and serve. 14 The New England Cook Book EGGS EN SURPRISE Take 1 dozen eggs, and make a small hole at each end of every egg, through which pass a straw and break the yolk; then blow out the yolk care- fully. Wash the shells, and having drained, dry them in the open air; mix the yolk of an egg with a little flour to close one of the holes of the shells, and when dry, fill J the number by means of a small funnel, with chocolate cream, and the remaining 6 with coffee or orange-cream; close the other end of your eggs, and put them into a saucepan of hot water; set them on the fire^ taking care they do not boil; when done, remove the cement from the ends; dry, and serve them on a folded napkin. EGGS FRIED Eggs boiled hard, cut into slices, and fried, may be served as a second course dish, to eat with roasted chicken. EGGS FRIED AND MINCED HAM OR BACON Choose some fine salt pork, streaked with a good deal of lean ; cut this into very thin slices, and after- ward into small square pieces; throw them into a Eggs 15 stewpan, and set it over a gentle fire, that they may lose some of their fat. When as much as will freely come is thus melted from them, lay them on a warm dish. Put into a stewpan a ladleful of melted bacon or lard; set it on a stove; put in about a dozen of the small pieces of bacon, then stoop the stewpan and break in an egg. Manage this carefully and the egg will presently be done. It will be very round, and the little dice of bacon will stick to it all over, so that it will make a very pretty appearance. Take care the yolks do not harden; when the egg is thus done, lay it carefully in a warm dish, and do the others. EGG FRITTERS Pound 1 dozen hard-boiled eggs with a little cream, and J pound of beef marrow ; then pound ^ dozen macaroons, some bitter almonds, a little sugar, and lemon-peel; mix these with the pounded eggs, and form them into fritters ; dip them into a batter made with flour, butter, salt, and lemon-peel; fry them in very hot lard, sprinkle sugar over, and serve. EGG FRIZZLE Pour boiling water on to salt smoked beef slivered. Pour off the w^ater and then frizzle it in the fry- ing-pan with butter. When done, break in two or three eggs, and stir it till the egg is hardened. 16 The New England Cook Booh EGGS FROTHED Beat up the yolks of 8 eggs and the whites of 4 (set aside the remaining whites) with a spoonful of water, some salt, sugar, and the juice of a lemon; fry this, and then put it on a dish; whip the four whites (which were set aside) to a froth with sugar, and place it over the fried eggs; bake it in an oven, or with a high cover fitted for the purpose. HAM AND EGGS Cut some ham into thin slices, and broil them on a gridiron. Fry some eggs in butter. Serve it, lay- ing an egg on each slice of ham. OMELET (1) Five or 6 eggs will make a good-sized omelet; break them into a basin, and beat them well with a fork; and add a saltspoonful of salt; have ready chopped 2 drachms of onion, or 3 drachms of pars- ley, a good clove of eschalot minced very fine; beat it well up with the eggs ; then take 4 ounces of fresh butter, and break | of it into large bits, and put it into the omelet, and the other ^ into a very clean frying-pan; when it is melted, pour in the omelet, Eggs IT and stir it with a spoon till it begins to set, then turn it up all round the edges, and when it is of a nice brown it is done. The safest way to take it out is to put a plate on the omelet, and turn the pan upside- down. Serve it on a hot dish ; it should never be done till just wanted. If maigre, add grated cheese, shrimps, or oysters. If oysters, boil them 4 minutes, and take away the beard and gristly part; they may either be put in whole or cut in bits. OMELET (2) Beard and parboil 12 or 16 oysters, seasoning them with a few peppercorns, strain and chop them; beat well 6 eggs ; parboil and mince a little parsley ; mix all together, and season with a little nutmeg, salt, and a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup; fry it lightly in 3 ounces of butter, and hold it for 1 or 2 minutes before the fire. OMELET (3) Beat well and strain 6 eggs ; add them to 3 ounces of butter made hot ; mix in some grated ham, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, some chopped chives and parsley. Fry it to a light brown color. 18 The New Ens:land Cook Book ti' OMELET (4) Take as many eggs as you think proper (accord- ing to the size of your omelet), break them into a basin with some salt and chopped parsley; then beat them well, and season them according to taste; then have ready some onion chopped small; put some but- ter into a frying-pan, and when it is hot (but not to burn) put in your chopped onion, giving them 2 or 3 turns; then add your eggs to it, and fry the whole to a nice brown. You must only fry one side. When done, turn it into a dish, the fried side upper- most, and serve. OMELET WITH KIDNEY OF VEAL To 8 well-beaten eggs, add a little salt, and part of a cold roasted kidney of veal, finely minced ; season with pepper, and a little more salt ; melt in a frying- pan 1^ ounce of butter, and pour in the omelet; fry it gently, and keep the middle part moist ; when done, roll it equally upon a knife, and serve it very hot. OMELET AU NATUREL Break 8 or 10 eggs into a pan, add pepper, salt, and a spoonful of cold water, beat them up with a Eggs 19 whisk; in the meantime put soma fresh butter into a frying-pan, when it is quite melted and nearly boil- ing, put in the eggs, etc., with a skimmer; as it is frying, take up the edges, that they may be properly don£; when cooked, double it; serve very hot. TO KEEP EGGS To 4 quarts of air-slaked lime, put S ounces of cream of tartar (that is, 2 tablespoonfuls), 2 of salt, and 4 quarts of cold water. Put fresh eggs into a stone jar, and pour the mixture over them. This will keep 9 dozen, provided they are all good when laid down; and after many months the yolks will be still whole, and the whites stiff and clear as at first. The water may settle away so as to leave the upper layer uncovered. If so, add more. Cover them closely and keep them in a cool place. Eggs should be laid down when they are at the lowest market price. Fish and Shellfish FISH CONSOMMfi Take carp, perch, eels, pike, and other fresh-waier fish of the same kind; clean them well and cut them into pieces, as near of a size as may be; lay them in a stewpan, on a layer of sliced onions and carrots ; as soon as they begin to sweat, put in a bit of butter, and leave them for ^ an hour; moisten them with fish broth, and let them boil gently for 1 hour; keep the pan closely covered. This will afford a very nourishing broth. CLAMPURfiE S dozen clams, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1^ pints of cream, ■J cup of cold water, S tablespoonfuls of flour, ^ cupful of bread crumbs, Season to taste. Drain clams with the water and save all the liquor. Heat the liquor and when boiling skim thoroughly. 20 Fish and Shellfish 21 Add finely chopped clams and let boil again and skim. Rub the butter and flour together, stir until smooth and add to the broth with the bread crumbs, stir and cook until it thickens ; add the cream which has been previously scalded; season and serve at once. NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER Chop 24) large, hard-shelled clams and let stand on ice, in their own liquor. Fry ^ pound of fine cut larding pork until crisp, add 2 quarts of boiling water, 1 cup each of diced carrot, and finely chopped onion and white stalks of celery; boil until the car- rots are tender; add 4 cups of peeled potatoes cut in small pieces, ^ tablcspoonful of salt, ^ teaspoon- ful pepper, let boil ten minutes, add 1 pint of canned tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful of thyme, cook 20 minutes, then add the clams with their liquor, thicken with 1 tablespoonful of flour rubbed into 1 tablespoonful of butter^ cook 10 minutes, and serve, CODFISH BALLS Mix with 1 cup of hot mashed potatoes (unsea- soned) ^ cup of shredded codfish. Add to this 1 small egg and a speck of pepper, beating all till light and creamy. Shape roll in dried bread ciTimbs, dip 22 The New England Cook Booh in beaten ^g^, which has teaspoonful of milk added to it, then in crumbs again, and fry in deep hot fat till brown. CREAMED SALT COD Melt 1 rounded tablespoonful of butter in a sauce- pan, add one tablespoonful of flour, a speck of pep- per, and beat well; add gradually 1 cup of hot milk, beating each time. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of fish and pour over slices of toast or crisped crackers. A hard-boiled ^gg cut in slices may be added, if de- sired. COD PIE Lay a fine piece of fresh cod in salt for several hours; then wash it well, season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace; place it in a dish, with a little butter and some good stock. Lay a crust over, and bake it ; when done, pour in a sauce, made as follows : — 1 spoonful of stock, \ pint of cream, flour and butter, grate in a little nutmeg and lemon-peel, and a few oysters; boil the whole once. A CODFISH RELISH Take thin slivers of codfish, lay them on hot coals, and when a yellowish brown, set them on the table. Fish mid Shellfish 23 A CODFISH RELISH (2) Sliver the codfish fine, pour on boihng water, drain it off, and add butter, and a very little pepper, and heat them 3 or 4 minutes, but do not let them fry. SOFT SHELL CRABS Clean thoroughly and scrape out the fins that are under the shell, fry in equal parts lard and butter until slightly crisp. Serve with Sauce Tartare, or sliced lemon and garnish with cress. TO DEVIL CRABS Take 12 large crabs, boil, remove the meat from the shells and chop fine, add two tablespoonfuls of butter, a little dry mustard, a grating of nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste. Take an equal quantity of bread crumbs and mix thoroughly with the crab meat, moisten with ^ cup of rich cream, add a dash of cayenne. Fill the crab shells with the mixture, put a small piece of butter on the top and sprinkle with bread crumbs ; brown in the oven and serve with Worcestershire sauce or sliced lemon ; garnish with parsley. 24 The New Ensland Cook Book ESCALLOPED FISH Remove the bones and skin from cold cooked fish. Make a cream sauce of 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 of butter and 1 cup of milk; season with a few slices of onion, a little chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Rub the inside of a baking dish with butter; alternate layers of flaked fish, cream sauce and cracker crumbs, until the dish is filled; cover the last layer with crumbs. Bake in the oven 20 minutes. FISH RECHAUFFE After pike, cod, skate, turbot, soles, or any other white fish has been dressed, pick it from the bones into small bits ; add to a pound of fish, or in the same proportion, ^ pint of good cream, 1 tablespoon- ful of mustard, the same of anchovy essence, the same of catsup, a little flour, some salt, pepper, and butter. Make it all hot in the saucepan, then put it into the dish in which it is to be served up, strew crumbs of bread over it, and baste it with butter till it is a little moist; then brown it with a salamander, or in a Dutch oven. A wall of mashed potatoes round the dish is an improvement. Fish mid Shellfish 25 FLOUNDERS BOILED Put on a stewpan with a sufficient quantity of water to cover the flounders which are to be dressed; put in some vinegar and horseradish. When the water boils put in the fish, having been first well cleaned, and their fins cut off. They must not boil too fast, for fear they should break. When they are suffi- ciently done, lay them on a fish plate, the tails in the middle. Serve them with parsley and butter. FRIED EELS Skin and clean the eels, wipe dry, cut into fillets, dip in beaten egg and roll in cracker crumbs, fry in hot lard, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve. HERRINGS TO BAKE They must be perfectly fresh, and well cleaned, but not washed; the heads and fins cut off, and the bones cut out; strew over them pepper, salt, and a slice of onion minced very finely, to each; roll them up tight; pack them into a jar, and pour over in the proportion of a pint of vinegar to 2 of water, with ^ ounce of whole black pepper; tie over the jar a piece of bladder or paper, and bake them in an oven for 1 hour. Take off the cover when they are cold, and pour over a little cold vinegar, and tie them up. 26 The New England Cook Book HERRINGS BOILED Scale, and otherwise prepare the herrings in the usual way; dry them well, and rub them over with a little salt, and vinegar; skewer their tails in their mouths, lay them on a fish plate, and put them into boiling water; in 10 or 12 minutes take them out, drain them, lay them on the dish, the heads towards the middle ; serve them with melted butter and parsley, and garnish with horseradish. HERRINGS TO FRY Scrape off the scales ; cut off the fins ; draw out the gut, keeping in the roes and melts ; wipe them in a clean cloth; dredge them Avith flour, and fry them in boiling dripping; put them before the fire to drain and keep hot. Sauces : — Melted butter, and parsley and butter. When herrings are to be broiled, they are prepared In the same manner, and done upon the gridiron. They must not be washed. HERRINGS, RED Plain broil them, or pour over some beer made hot, and when it is cold, drain and wipe them dry ; heat them thoroughly, and rub over a little butter, and sprinkle them with pepper. Fish and Shellfish 27 SALT HERRINGS Heat them on a gridiron, remove the skin, and then set them on the table. LOBSTERS, OR CRABS, BUTTERED Pick all the meat from the bodies of either, mince it small, put it into a saucepan with 2 or 3 table- spoonfuls of white wine, 1 of lemon-pickle, and 3 or 4 of rich gravy, a bit of butter, some salt, pep- per, and grated nutmeg; thicken it with the yolks of 2 eggs beat up, and when quite hot, put it into the large shells; garnish them with an edging of bread toasted. LOBSTER A LA BRAISE Pound the meat of a large lobster very fine with 2 ounces of butter, and season it with grated nut- meg, salt, and white pepper; add a little grated bread, beat up 2 eggs, reserve part to put over the meat, and with the rest make it up into the form of a lobster. Pound the spawn and red part, and spread it over it; bake it ^ hour, and just before serving, lay over it the tail and body shell, with the small claws put underneath to resemble a lobster. 28 The New England Cook Book LOBSTER FRICASSEE Break the shells, and take out the meat carefully, cut it and the red part, or coral, into pieces, adding the spawn ; thicken with flour and butter some white stock, with which the shells have been boiled; season it with white pepper, mace and salt, put in the lobster and heat it up. Just before serving, add a little lemon-juice, or lemon-pickle. The stock may be made with the shells, only boiled in a pint of water, with some white pepper, salt, and a little mace, thick- ened with cream, flour, and butter. LOBSTER NEWBURGH Two cups of finely-cut lobster, saute in 2 table- spoonfuls of hot butter ; add the yolks of S eggs that have been w^ell beaten into 1 cup of rich cream; season with 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful pep- per, a pinch of red pepper, and a grating of nut- meg. When boiling add i cup of sherry and brandy mixed. Let come once more to a boil and serve im- mediately, in ramekins or on toast. This may be made in a chafing dish, if desired. LOBSTER PATTIES (1) Pick the meat and red berries out of a lobster, mince them finely, add grated bread, chopped pars- Fish and Shellfish 29 ley, and butter; season with grated nutmeg, white pepper and salt ; add a little white stock, cream, and a tablespoonful of white wine, with a few chopped oysters; heat it all together. Line the patty pans with puff paste; put into each a bit of crumb of bread, about 1 inch square, wet the edge of the paste, and cover it with another bit; with the paste- cutter mark it all round the rim, and pare oif the paste round the edge of the patty-pan. When baked take off the top, and with a knife take out the bread and a little of the inside paste, and serve them in a napkin. Another way to prepare the paste. — Roll it out nearlj^ ^ inch thick, and cut it into rounds with a tin cutter, and, with 1 or 2 sizes less, mark it in the middle about half through. When they are baked, carefully cut out the inner top of the paste, and scoop out the inside, so as to make room for the mince, vdiich put in, and place on top. LOBSTER PATTIES (2) Prepare the patties as in the last receipt. Take a hen lobster already boiled; pick the meat from the tail and the claws, and chop it fine; put it into a stewpan, with a little of the inside spawn pounded in a mortar till quite smooth, 1 ounce of fresh but- ter, ^ gill of cream, and ^ gill of veal consomme, 30 The New England Cook Book cayenne pepper, and salt, 1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, the same of lemon- juice, and 1 table- spoonful of flour and water. Stew it 5 minutes. LOBSTER PIE Boil the lobsters, and cut the meat of the tail into 4 bits; take out the meat from the claws and the bodies, pound it in a mortar, add the soft part of 1 lobster, and season with pepper, salt and nutmeg; add 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar; melt ^ pound of butter, and mix it with the pounded meat and the crumb of a slice of grated bread. Put puff paste round the edge and side of the dish; put in the tail of the lobster, then a layer of oysters with their liquor, and next the pounded meat; cover it with a puff paste, and bake it till the paste is done. Be- fore serving, pour in some rich gravy, made of a little weak stock in which the lobster shells have been boikd, with an onion, pepper, and salt, and which has been strained and thickened with a bit of butter rolled in flour. MACKEREL BAKED Cut off their heads, open them, and take out the roes and clean them thoroughly; rub them on the in- side with a little pepper and salt, put the roes in again, season them (with a mixture of powdered all- Fish and Shellfish 31 spice, black pepper, and salt, Avell rubbed together), and lay them close in a baking-pan, cover them with equal quantities of cold vinegar and water, tie them down with strong white paper doubled, and bake them for 1 hour in a slow oven. They will keep for a fortnight. MACKEREL BOILED This fish loses its life as soon as it leaves the sea, and the fresher it is the better. Wash and clean them thoroughly (the fishmongers seldom do this suf- ficiently), put them into cold water with a handful of salt in it ; let them rather simmer than boil ; a small mackerel will be done enough in about ^ hour. When the eyes start and the tail splits, they are done; do not let them stand in the water a moment after ; they are so delicate that the heat of the water will break them. MACKEREL BROILED Clean a fine large mackerel, wipe It on a dry cloth, and cut a long slit down the back ; lay it on a clean gridiron, over a very clear, slow fire; when it is done on one side, turn it; be careful that it does not burn. Send it up with fennel sauce : mix well together a little finely-minced fennel and parsley, seasoned with a little pepper and salt, a bit of fresh butter. 32 The New England Cook Booh and when tlie mackerel are ready for tlie table, put some of this into each dish. OYSTERS BAKED IN SHELLS Select large oysters. Clean the shells with a brush. Dip the oysters into ^gg and then seasoned bread crumbs ; place the oysters back in the shells, add a small lump of butter to each oyster and bake in quick oven 10 minutes; serve with sliced lemon. OYSTER BISQUE strain the liquor from a quart of oysters and put over the fire. Beard and clean the oysters and chop fine. Add oysters to scalding liquor and season with 1 teaspoon- ful of salt and ^ teaspoonful of paprika. In another saucepan, thicken 1 cup of milk with a tablespoonful of butter rubbed in 1 cup of flour and ^ cup of cracker crumbs. When the oysters boil add them slowly to the milk and serve at once. FRIED OYSTERS For frying, choose the largest and finest oysters. Beat some yolks of eggs, and mix with them grated bread, and a small quantity of beaten nutmeg and Fish and Shellfish 33 mace and a little salt. Having stirred this batter well, dip your oysters into it, and fry them in lard, till they are of a light brown color. Take care not to do them too much. Serve them up hot. For grated bread, some substitute crackers pounded to a powder, and mixed with yolk of egg and spice. SCALLOPED OYSTERS Grate a small loaf of stale bread. Butter a deep dish well, and cover the sides and bottom with bread crumbs. Put in half the oysters with a little mace and pepper. Cover them with crumbs and small bits of butter strewed over them. Then put in the re- mainder of the oysters. Season them. Cover them as before with crumbs and butter. If the oysters are fresh, pour in a little of the liquor. If they are salt, substitute a little water. Bake them a very short time. You may cook them in the small scalloped dishes made for the purpose. SPICED OYSTERS 200 large fresh oysters, 4 tablespoonfuls of strong vinegar, 1 nutmeg, grated, 5 dozen of cloves, whole, 8 blades of mace, whole. 34 The New England Cook Book 9, teaspoonfuls of salt if the oysters are fresh, 2 teaspoonfuls of allspice, As much cayenne pepper as will lie on the point of a knife. Put the oysters, with their liquor, into a large earthen pitcher. Add to them the vinegar and all the other ingredients. Stir all well together. Set them in the stove, or over a slow fire, keeping them cov- ered. Take them off the fire several times, and stir them to the bottom. As soon as they boil com- pletely they are sufficiently done ; if they boil too long they will be hard. Pour them directly out of the pitcher into a pan, and set them away to cool. They must not be eaten till quite cold, or indeed till next day. If you wash to keep them a week, put a smaller quantity of spice, or they will taste too much of it by setting so long. Let them be well covered. Oysters in the shell may be kept all winter by lay- ing them in a heap in the cellar, with the concave side upwards to hold in the liquor. Sprinkle them every day with strong salt and water, and then with Indian meal. Cover them with matting or an old carpet. Fish and Shellfish 35 STEWED OYSTERS (1) Open the oysters and strain the liquor. Put to the liquor some grated stale bread, and a little pepper and nutmeg, adding a glass of white wine. Boil the liquor with these ingredients, and then pour it scald- ing hot over the dish of raw oysters. This will cook them sufficiently. Have ready some slices of buttered toast with the crust cut off. When the oysters are done, dip the toast in the liquor, and lay the pieces round the sides and in the bottom of a deep dish. Pour the oysters and liquor upon the toast, and send them to table hot. STEWED OYSTERS (2) Strain all the liquor from the oysters, and thicken the liquor with stale bread grated (which is much bet- ter than flour), some whole pepper, and some mace. Grate some nutmeg into it. Boil the liquor without the oysters, adding a piece of butter rolled in flour. Lay a slice of buttered toast in the bottom of a deep dish, and surround the sides with small slices cut into 3-corner or pointed pieces. All the crust must be cut off^ from the toast. Put the raw oysters into the dish of toast, and when the liquor has boiled hard, pour it scalding hot 36 The New England Cook Book over them. Cover the dish closely, and let it set for 5 minutes or more before you send it to table. This will cook the oysters sufficiently, will swell them to a larger size, and cause them to retain more of their flavor than when stewed in the liquor. Take care not to make it too thick with the grated bread. OYSTER PIE Beard a quart of fine oysters, strain the liquor, and add them to it. Cut into thin slices the kidney fat of a loin of veal ; season them with white pepper, salt, mace, and grated lemon-peel; lay them on the bottom of a pie dish, put in the oysters and liquor, with a little more seasoning; put over them the mar- row of 2 bones. Lay a border of puff paste round the edge of the dish ; cover it with paste, and bake it nearly f hour. PERCH BOILED Put them into cold water, and let them boil care- fully ; serve with melted butter and soy. PERCH BROILED Scrape, gut, and wash them; dry them in a cloth, dust them with flour, and broil them. Sauce: — Melted butter. Or they may be broiled without gut- Fish and Shellfish 37 ting them. They may also be stewed as carp are done. PERCH WITH WINE Having scaled and taken out the gills, put the perch into a stewpan, with equal quantities of stock and white wine, a bay-leaf, a clove of garlic, a bunch of parsley and scallions, 2 cloves, and some salt. When done, take out the fish, strain off the liquor, the dreers of which mix with some butter and a little flour ; beat these up, set them on the fire, stirring till quite done, adding pepper, grated nutmeg, and a ball of anchovy butter. Drain the perch well, and dish them with the above sauce. PICKEREL BAKED Clean and wipe the fish. Place in pan with suffi- cient melted butter and water to keep from burning; baste frequently and when cooked serve with Qg^ sauce. Pickerel may be filled with seasoned bread or potato stuffing, if so desired. BAKED PIKE Scrape the scales off a large pike, take out the gills, and clean it, without breaking the skin ; stuff the fish with a forcemeat made of 2 handf uls of grated bread ; 38 The New England Cook Book 1 of finely-minced suet, some chopped parsley, and a little fresh butter, seasoned with pepper, salt, mace, grated lemon-peel and a nutmeg, pounded all together in a mortar, with two whole eggs. Fasten the tail of the pike into its mouth with a skewer, then dip it, first into a well-beaten egg, and then into grated bread, which repeat twice; baste it over the butter, and bake it in an oven. If two of them are to be served, make one of them of a green color, by mixing a quantity of finely- min-ced parsley with the grated bread. When the fish is of a fine brown color, cover it with paper until it is done. Serve with a Dutch sauce in a sauce- tureen. BOILED PIKE Wash clean, and take out the gills ; stuff them with the following forcemeat : equal parts of chopped 03^8- ters, grated bread crumbs, beef suet, or butter, 2 anchovies, a little onion, pepper, salt, nutmeg, minced parsley, sweet marjoram, thyme, and savory; an egg to bind it. Stuff the insides, and sew them up ; put them on in boiling salt and water, with a glass of vinegar, and let them boil ^ hour. Sauces : — Oyster, and melted butter. Pike may also be broiled. Fish and Shellfish 39 SALMON BAKED Clean and cut the fish into sUces, put it in a dish, and make the following sauce : — Melt 1 ounce of butter, kneaded in flour, in 1^ pint of gravy, with S glasses of Port wine, S tablespoonfuls of cat- sup, 2 anchovies, and a little cayenne. When the anchovies are dissolved, strain and pour the sauce over the fish, tie a sheet of buttered paper over the dish, and bake it in the oven. SALMON BOILED Put on a fish kettle, with spring water enough to well cover the salmon you are going to dress, or the salmon will neither look nor taste well (boil the liver in a separate saucepan). When the water boils, put in a handful of salt; take off the scum as soon as it rises; have the fish well washed; put it in, and if it is thick, let it boil very gently. Salmon re- quires almost as much boiling as meat; about \ hour to 1 pound of fish: but practice only can perfect the cook in dressing salmon. A quarter of a salmon will take almost as long boiling as half a one: you must consider the thickness, not the w^eight: 10 pounds of fine full-grown salmon will be done in 1\ hours. Lobster sauce. Obs. — The thinnest part of the fish is the fattest ; 40 The New England Cook Book and if you have a " grand gourmand " at table, ask him if he is for thick or thin. N. B. — If you have any left, put it into a pie- dish, and cover it with an equal portion of vinegar and pump water, and a little salt. It will be ready in 3 days. FRIED SCALLOPS Dredge scallops with flour ; dip separately in beaten egg; roll in bread crumbs that have been seasoned with salt and pepper; fry in hot fat until golden brown. Serve at once, with sliced lemon or Tartare Sauce. SHAD BAKED Wash and clean the shad, and stuff with bread crumbs mixed with 1 beaten egg and seasoned with salt, pepper, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and a few drops of onion juice. Tie a string around the fish, place in pan in oven and baste frequently with equal pa^rts of melted butter and hot water. SHAD ROE Parboil the roe, drain, sprinkle with salt and pep- per, dredge with flour and fry a light brown. Fish and Shellfish 41 SMELTS Soak smelts a little while in warm water; scrape them, and cut the heads so far that you can gently pull them off, and thus draw out the dark vein that runs through the body ; then rinse and lay them into a dry cloth while you fry 2 or 3 slices of salt pork crisp. Dip the smelts into a plate of fine Indian meal, and fry them brown. If you fry them in lard or drippings, sprinkle them with salt, but not until they are nearly done, as they will not brown as well, if it is put on at first. BROILED SMELTS Clean and split 12 large smelts, spread the smelts with 12 finely chopped olives and ^ green pepper; close smelts and sprinkle with salt and a little pa- prika, dip in melted butter or olive oil and broil over a quick fire. STURGEON Select 4 pounds of fish, parboil \ hour, place in pan, cover with rashers of salt pork, baste frequently and bake 1 hour. Serve with drawn butter. 42 The New England Cook Book TO COLLAR TROUT Wash them clean, spht them down the backbone, and dry them well in a cloth; season them well with finely-pounded black pepper, salt, and mace; roll them tight, and lay them close into a dish; pour over an equal quantity of vinegar and beer, with two or three bay -leaves, and some whole black pepper ; ' tie over the dish a sheet of buttered paper, and bake them 1 hour. TO BROIL TROUT Cut off the fins, and cut the fish down the back, close to the bone, and split the head in two. An- other way is, after they have been cut open, to rub a little salt over them ; let them lie 3 or 4 hours, and then hang them up in the kitchen. They will be ready to broil the next morning for breakfast. TO FRY TROUT Cut off the fins, clean and gut them; dust them with flour, and dip them into the yolk of an egg beaten; strew grated bread crumbs over, and fry them in fresh dripping; lay them upon the back of a sieve before the fire to drain. Sauce : — Melted but- ter, with 1 tablespoonful of catsup, and 1 of lemon- Fish and Shellfish 43 pickle in it. When they are small, roll them in oat- meal before they are fried. TURBOT, BAKED Wash your fish in several waters, dry it well, and soak it in melted butter, with sweet herbs, parsley, pepper, salt and nutmeg; in ^ hour, put the whole into a baking dish, envelope it completely in bread crumbs, and bake it. TURBOT, BREADED Prepare a small turbot as usual, slit it across the back, and soak it for 1 hour in melted butter, or lemon-juice, with parsley, sweet herbs, salt and pep- per. Cover the fish with bread crumbs, and broil it. When done, squeeze lemon, or Seville orange-juice over it, and serve. TURBOT, STUFFED AND BAKED Your turbot being properly cleansed, turn over the skin of the under side, without cutting it off; make a farce, with some butter, scallions, morels, sweet herbs, all shred, and united together, with yolks of eggs, and seasoned with pepper and salt ; spread this all over the under part of the fish, cover it with the 44 The New E^igland Cook Booh skin, and sew it up. Dissolve some butter in a sauce- pan; add to it when melted, the yolk of an egg, sweet herbs, shred, salt, and pepper; rub the fish all over with this, then bread, and bake it. TURBO T, GRILLED Split the fish down the back, and soak it for some time, with melted butter, parsley, sweet herbs, salt and pepper. Bread the turbot well, broil, and serve it with lemon, or Seville orange- juice. TURBOT, WITH WHITE SAUCE Put a sliced onion, some thyme, basil and sweet herbs into a stewpan, place a small turbot on these, strew similar herbs, salt, pepper and a leek, cut in pieces over it; cover the fish with equal quantities of vinegar and white wine; let it boil over a moderate fire until sufficiently done ; in the meantime, melt a pound of butter, add to it a couple of boned an- chovies, 2 spoonfuls of capers, shred small, 2 or 3 leeks, salt, pepper, nutmeg, a little vinegar, water, and a sprinkling of flour; make all these quite hot, stirring constantly till done; then dish the turbot, pour the sauce over it, and serve. Vegetables ASPARAGUS Wash it, trim off the white ends, and tie it up in bunches with a twine or a strip of old cotton. Throw them into boiling water with salt in it. Boil 25 minutes or ^ hour. Have ready 2 or 3 slices of toasted bread, dip them in the water and lay them in the dish. Spread them with butter and lay the bunches of asparagus upon the toast. Cut the strings with a scissors and draw them out without breaking the stalks ; lay thin shavings of butter over the asparagus, and send it to the table. ASPARAGUS, BOILED Scrape and tie them in small bundles; cut them even, boil them quick in salt and water; lay them on a toast dipped in the water the asparagus was boiled in ; pour over them melted butter. ASPARAGUS AND EGGS Toast a slice of bread, butter it, and lay it on a dish; butter some eggs thus: take 4 eggs, beat them 45 46 The New England Cook Book well, put them into a saucepan with 2 ounces of but- ter, and a little salt, until of a sufficient consistence, and lay them on the toast; meanwhile boil some as- paragus tender, cut the ends small, and lay them on the eggs. BOSTON BAKED BEANS Soak 2 cups California pea beans over night, next morning parboil till rather soft. Mix 1 teaspoon mustard with 1 teaspoon salt, ^ cup molasses, fill cup with boiling water and pour over beans in covered bean pot, add ^ pound salt pork and bake all day. BEETS When they are washed the little fibers and ragged excrescences should not be broken off, as the juices of the root will thus be lost. Young beets boil in an hour; but in the winter they require from 2 to 3 hours. When tender, put them for 1 or S minutes into cold water, take them in your hands and slip the skins off. This is a much easier and better way than to remove the skin with a knife. Lay them into a dish, cut them several times through, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, add a little butter, and, if you choose, vinegar also. It is a very good way to cut up all that remains after dinner, put on salt and vinegar, and set them aside to be used cold an- other day. Vegetables 47 CUCUMBERS Cucumbers should be gathered while dew Is yet on them, and put humediately into water. Half an hour before dinner, pare and slice them very thin, and let them lie in fresh water till dinner is ready ; then drain them, lay them into a dish, sprinkle them with salt, pour on the vinegar, and add the pepper last. CABBAGE Remove the waste leaves, and divide the stump end as far as the center of the cabbage. It is good boiled with salt meat; but if cooked by itself, salt should be added to the water. Cabbage should be put into boiling water, be well skimmed, and boil 1 or 1^ hours, according to the size. CAULIFLOWERS Lay them an hour or two in cold salt and water; remove the outside leaves and boil them half an hour in milk and water. If they are strong, pour off the water when they are half done, and put fresh boil- ing water to them. Brocoli is cooked in the same manner, and should be laid on toast exactly like asparagus. 48 The New England Cook Book SHELLED BEANS Put them into cold soft water, just enough to cover them. Boil them from 1 to Ij hours. Some kinds are more easily boiled than others. Do not put in salt until they are nearly done, as its tendency is to make them hard. Take them up with a skim- mer and butter them. STRING BEANS Beans should never be used in this way after the pod has become old enough to have a string, or tough fiber upon it. Cut off each end, and cut them up small. Boil them in as little water as will keep them from burning. Just before you take them up, add salt and butter, and dredge in a little flour. They should have only as much liquor in them as you wish to take up in the dish, else the sweetness is wasted. String beans and peas are good boiled together. BOILED CORN Put the ears into boiling water, with salt in it, and boil them ^ an hour. Vegetables 49 CORN OYSTERS Grate young, sweet com into a dish, and to a pint add 1 egg, well beaten, 1 small teacup of flour, ^ a gill of cream, and 1 teaspoonful of salt. Mix it well together. Fry exactly like oysters, dropping it into the fat by spoonfuls about the size of an oyster. EGG PLANT Take fresh purple ones, and pull out the stem; parboil them and cut them in slices about an inch thick. Dip them in a beaten Ggg, and then in a plate of bread or cracker crumbs, with salt and pepper, and fry them in drippings until they are nicely browned. GREENS Cabbage plants, turnip or mustard tops, the roots and tops of young beets, cowslips, dandelions, and various other things, make a good dish in the spring. When boiled enough, they will sink to the bottom of the kettle. Some require an hour, and others less time. Turnip tops will be boiled enough in 20 min- utes. Remember to put salt into the water, unless you boil a piece of pork with them. 50 The New England Cook Book MACARONI Procure that which looks white and clean. When it is to be used, examine it carefully, as there are sometimes little insects inside. Wash it, and put it in a stewpan in cold water enough almost to cover it. Add a little salt. Let it boil slowly ^ an hour; then add a gill of milk and a small piece of butter, and boil it ^ of an hour more. Then put it into the dish in which it is to go to the table, grate old cheese over it, and brown it in the oven. MACARONI DRESSED SWEET Boil 2 ounces of macaroni in 1 pint of milk, with a bit of lemon-peel, and a good bit of cinnamon, till the pipes are swelled to their utmost size without breaking. Lay them on a custard dish, and pour a custard over them hot. Serve cold. MACARONI GRATIN Lay fried bread pretty closely around a dish, boil your macaroni in the usual way, and pour it into the dish; smooth it all over, and strew bread-crumbs on it, then a pretty thick layer of grated Parmesan cheese ; drop a little melted butter on it, and brown in quick oven. Vegetables 51 MACARONI TIM BALE Take some puff paste, roll it thin, and cut it into narrow bands; twist each kind into a kind of cord, which place around the insides of buttered molds, snail fashion; fill each mold with macaroni, cover the tops with grated bread and Parmesan cheese (equal quantities of each) ; put the Timbales into a warm oven, and bake them f of an hour; then turn them on a dish and serve. STEWED MUSHROOMS Take 1 quart of fresh mushrooms. Peel them and cut off the stems. Season them with pepper and salt. Put them in a saucepan or skillet, with a lump of fresh butter the size of an Ggg, and sufficient cream or rich milk to cover them. Put on the lid of the pan, and stew the mushrooms about ^ of an hour, keeping them well covered or the flavor will evaporate. When you take them off the fire, have ready 1 or 2 beaten eggs. Stir the eggs gradually into the stew, and send it to the table in a covered dish. o K R A s Cut okras into small lengths, boil In salted water until tender, serve with white sauce, or saute in 52 The Neto England Cook Book saucepan v/itli 1 ounce of butter, 1 sliced onion, 1 minced green pepper; when brown add ^ cup of stewed tomato, ^ teaspoonful of salt and a pinch of pepper; simmer IS minutes and serve. ONIONS Boil them 20 minutes, and pour off the water en- tirely; then put in equal parts of hot water and milk, or skimmed milk alone, and boil them 20 min- utes more. When they are done through, take them up with a skimmer, let them drain a little, and lay them into the dish. Put on butter, pepper, and salt. ONIONS, PLAIN BOILED Peel them, and let them He 1 hour in cold water; put them on In boiling milk and water ; boil them till tender, and serve them with melted butter poured over them. ONIONS, ROAST Roast them with the skins on in a Dutch oven, that they may brown equally. They are eaten with cold, fresh butter, pepper and salt. Vegetables 53 ONIONS, STEWED Take 1 dozen of good-sized onions, peel and put them on in the following sauce : 1 pint of veal stock, a bit of butter rolled in flour, a little pepper and salt. Stew them gently for 1 hour, and, just before serv- ing, mix in S tablespoonfuls of cream. To stew them in a brown sauce, take the same quantity of good gravy. In a stewpan, brown of a light color, a little butter and flour, add the gi'avy and onions, with a little pepper and salt, and stew them gently 1 hour. PARSNIPS These are not considered by most people very good; but they are so in broth and soup. To eat with meat they should be boiled J of an hour, if fresh from the garden; in the winter, 1^ hours. Thej^ make very good pies after the fashion of pumpkin or squash, but they must be boiled very tender, and in a good deal of water, else a strong taste will per- vade the pies. PEAS If peas are young and fresh (and none others are good), they will boil in J hour or 35 minutes. They should be put into cold water, without salt. The 54 The New England Cook Book same quantity should be used as for string beans, and for the same reason. When they are tender, add salt and butter. It is an improvement to boil a sin- gle small slice of pork in them. It need not be laid into the dish, and the same slice will do for another boiling. TO BOIL POTATOES The best potatoes are good boiled without paring, but even they are best pared, and poor potatoes are unfit to eat, boiled with the skins on. New potatoes are made watery by being laid in w^ater, but late in the winter and in the spring they should be pared and laid in cold water 1 or 2 hours before they are cooked. Put them into boiling water, with salt in it, and allow 30 or 40 minutes for boiling, according to the size. When they are done through, pour off the water, and take the kettle to the door or win- dow, and shake them. Doing this in the open air makes them mealy; return them to the fire in 1 or 2 minutes and then serve. Many persons take a fork and break them up in the kettle, before taking them up, and they make a beautiful looking dish done in this w^ay. Potatoes require nearly 1 hour to bake in a. cook- ing stove or range. Vegetables 55 POTATO BALLS Mash boiled potatoes, fine, stir into them the yolk of an egg, and make them into balls ; then dip them into a beaten egg, roll them in cracker crumbs, and brown them in a quick oven ; or, fry them in a small quantity of nice drippings, and in that case flatten them so that they can be easily turned and browned on both sides. BAKED POTATOES Wash potatoes carefully, rub the skin with a little lard, prick the small end of the potato with a fork, bake in moderate oven 1 hour, serve on folded napkin. MASHED POTATOES Boil them according to the directions in the pre- ceding recipe, allowing 20 minutes more time be- fore dinner than if they were to be put on the table whole. When they are dried, set off the kettle and mash them in it with a wooden pestle. This is better than to take them into a pan, as they will keep hot in the kettle. Have ready 1 gill or 2 of hot milk or cream ; if you use milk, put a small piece of butter into it. Sprinkle salt into the potato and mash it till it is perfectly fine ; then pour in the hot milk and 56 The New England Cook Book mix it thoroughly. The more it is wrought with the pestle, the whiter it becomes. Put it into the dish for the table, smooth the top into proper shape, and set it into the stove to brown. To prepare it in the nicest manner, beat the yolk of an egg and spread over the top before putting it into the stove. If you do not care to take all this trouble, it is very good without being browned. POTATOES, RAW OR COLD, TO FRY Wash, peel, and put them into cold water for 1 or 2 hours, cut them into slices about ^ inch thick, and fry them a light brown in boiling clarified beef suet. Cold boiled potatoes, cut in slices, may be done in the same manner. POTATO FRITTERS Peel and pound in a mortar 6 mealy potatoes with a little salt, a glass of white w^ine, some pounded sugar, cinnamon, and 1 ounce of butter; roll it out with a little flour, cut them the size of a wine glass, and fry them in boiling clarified dripping. Serve them with sifted loaf suo^ar over them. Vegetables 57 'is POTATOES, FRIED IN SLICES OR RIBBONS Peel large potatoes, slice them about \ inch thick, or cut them in shavings round and round, as you would peel a lemon ; dry them well in a clean cloth, and fry them in lard or dripping. Take care that your fat and frying-pan are quite clean, put it on a quick fire, watch it, and as soon as the lard boils, and is still, put in the slices of potatoes, and keep moving them till they are crisp. Take them up, and lay them to drain on a sieve ; send them up with a very little salt sprinkled over them. POTATOES, FRIED W HOLE When nearly boiled enough, put them into a stew- pan with a bit of butter, or some nice clean beef- drippings; shake them about often (for fear of burn- ing them ) , till they are brown and crisp ; drain them from the fat. Obs. — It will be an elegant improvement previous to frying or broiling the potatoes, to flour them and dip them in the yolk of an ^gg, and then roll them in fine-sifted bread crumbs. They will then deserve to be called Potatoes Full Dressed. 58 The New England Cook Book POTATOES, SCALLOPED Mash potatoes as directed, then butter some nice clean scallop-shells, patty-pans, or tea-cups or sau- cers ; put in your potatoes ; make them smooth at the top ; cross a knife over them ; strew a few fine bread crumbs on them; sprinkle them with a paste-brush with a few drops of melted butter, and then set them in a Dutch oven ; when they are browned on the top, take them carefully out of the shells, and brown the other side. POTATO SNOW The potatoes must be free from spots, and the whitest you can pick out ; put them on in cold water ; when they begin to crack, strain the water from them, and put them into a clean stewpan by the side of the fire till they are quite dry, and fall to pieces ; rub them through a wire sieve on the dish they are to be sent up in, and do not disturb them afterwards. SWEET POTATOES They are best baked; are very nice boiled till ten- der, and then pared and laid into the oven to brown. They require more time for being cooked than the common potato. Cold sweet potatoes are excellent Vegetables 59 sliced and browned on the griddle. When one side is done, sprinkle salt over before turning them. RICE CHEESE Boil 1 ounce of rice, thick as hasty pudding, in rather less than -J pint of milk; pour it hot on 1^ ounces of butter, the same weight of sugar, mixing it well together ; let it stand till cold ; then add 1 egg and the yolk of another, and a little white wine. RICE CROQUETTES Wash and scald ^ pound of rice, put it into a saucepan with the rind of a lemon, shred small; ^ pound of powdered sugar, a pinch of salt, a little crisped orange flowers, 1 ounce of butter, and ^ pint of milk; set these on the fire, and when the rice is quite soft, add the yolks of 4 eggs, stir them in over the fire, but do not let them boil; pour the prepara- tion on a large tin or slab, spread it equally ; let it cool, and then divide it into small equal parts; roll these into balls, dip them into beaten egg, roll them in bread crumbs, and fry them in a very hot fat. As soon as the croquettes are of a nice color, drain ; sprinkle them with powdered sugar, and serve them. 60 The New Enpland Cook Book t»' SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT (1) Boil it till tender, then pour off the water, and add a little milk, and a little salt and butter. SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT (2) Parboil it, scraping off the outside, cut it in slices, dip it into beaten egg and fine bread crumbs, and fry it in lard. SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT (3) Make a batter of wheat flour, milk and eggs, and a little salt. Cut the salsify in slices ; after it is boiled tender, put it in the batter, and drop this mixture into hot fat by the spoonful. Cook them a light brown. SALSIFY (-1) Wash and scrape it very thoroughly, and put It in boiling water with salt in it. When tender, cut it in Vegetables 61 slices and fry it in hot fat, in a batter made of an egg, milk, flour, and salt. It is very nice, also, dipped in bread crumbs moistened with a beaten egg, and browned on a griddle. SUCCOTASH Cut off the corn from the cobs, and, 1^ hours be- fore dinner, put the cobs, with a few shelled beans, into cold water to boil. After 1 hour take out the cobs, put in the corn and boil it ^ hour. There should be no more water than will be necessary to make the succotash of the right thickness, as having too much occasions a loss of the richness imparted by the cobs. When you take it up, add a small piece of butter. This is much better than to boil the corn on the cob and then cut it off. It is a very good way, when a family are tired of fresh meat in hot weather, to boil a piece of pork in another pot until the grossest fat has boiled out, and then put it with the succotash for the remainder of the time. It gives a very good flavor to the corn, and makes an excellent dinner. SUMMER SQUASH If the rind is tender, boil it whole, in a little bag kept for the purpose. It should be put into boiling 62 TJie New England Cook Book water ; f of an hour is long enough to cook it. Take the bag into a pan and press it with the edge of a plate or with a ladle, until the water is out; then turn the squash out into a dish, add salt and butter, and smooth over the top. WINTER SQUASH Cut it up and take out the inside. Pare the pieces, and stew them in as little water as possible. If you have a tin with holes in it, which will fit the kettle and keep the squash from touching the water, it is the nicest way to steam it. Be careful it does not burn. It will cook in 1 hour. Mash it in a dish, or, if it is watery, squeeze it in a coarse cloth like summer squash. Stir in butter and salt. Lay it into the dish, smooth the top, and, if you like, pepper it. SPINAGE Put it into a net, or a bag of coarse muslin, kept for the purpose, and boil it in a plenty of water with salt in it, 10 or 12 minutes. All kinds of greens should be boiled in plenty of water, else they will be bitter. One method of serving spinage is to press it be- tween two plates, then put it into a saucepan with a small bit of butter, salt, and a little cream, and boil it up. Another is to drain it thoroughly, lay Vegetables 63 it in the dish, put upon the top hard-boiled eggs, sHced, and pour melted butter over it. TURNIPS Peel off ^ inch of the stringy outside. Full-grown turnips will take about IJ hours gentle boiling; if you slice them, which most people do, they will be done sooner ; try them with a fork ; when tender, take them up, and lay them on a sieve till the v/ater is thoroughly drained from them. Send them up whole; do not slice them. YOUNG WHITE TURNIPS Wash, peel, and boil them till tender in water with a little salt; serve them with melted butter poured over them. Or, they may be stewed in 1 pint of milk thickened with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and seasoned with salt and pepper, and served with the sauce. TURNIP TOPS Turnip tops are the shoots which grow out (in the spring) of the old turnip roots. Put them into cold water 1 hour before they are to be dressed ; the more water they are boiled in, the better they will look; if boiled in a small quantity of water they will taste bitter: when the water boils, put in a small handful 64 The New England Cook Book of salt, and then your vegetables ; if fresh and young they will be done in about ^0 minutes ; drain them on the back of a sieve. TURNIPS, TO BOIL, YEL- LOW OR LARGE WHITE Wash, pare, and throw them into cold water; put them on in boiling water with a little salt, and boil them from 2 to 2| hours, drain them in a colander, put them into a saucepan, and mixing in a bit of butter, with a beater mash them very smoothly, add ■^ pint of milk, mix it well with the turnips, and make them quite hot before serving. If they are to be served plain, dish them as soon as the water is drained off. MASHED TURNIPS Boil them in salt and water at least 1^ hours, un- less they are of early growth. Take them from the kettle into a deep dish, press them a little and pour off the water; mash them like potatoes, but use no milk, as they are moist enough. Add salt and a little butter. It is a very nice way to put an equal number of potatoes and turnips together, and mash them until they are thoroughly mixed. This is a favorite dish among the Dutch in the State of New York. Meats JT A-LA-MODE BEEF A round of fresh beef weighing from 18 to ^0 pounds, 1 pound of the fat of bacon or corned pork, the marrow from the bone of the beef, and \ pound of beef suet, all chopped together, 2 bundles of pot herbs, parsley, thyme, small onions, etc., chopped fine, 2 large bunches of sweet marjoram and % bunches of sweet basil, sufficient when powdered to make four tablespoonfuls of each, ^ large nutmegs and \ ounce of cloves, beaten to a powder, ■J ounce of mace, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of pepper, 2 glasses of Madeira wine. If your a-la-mode beef is to be eaten cold, prepare it three days before it is wanted. 66 The New England Cook Booh Take out the bone. Fasten up the opening with skewers, and tie the meat all round with tape. Rub it all over on both sides with salt. A large round of beef will be more tender than a small one. Chop the marrow and suet together. Pound the spice. Chop the pot-herbs very fine.- Pick the sweet marjoram and sweet basil clean from the stalks, and rub the leaves to a powder. You must have at least 4 tablespoonfuls of each. Add the pepper and salt, and mix well together all the ingredients that compose the seasoning. Stew in covered dish 16 hours. X-LA-MODE BEEF (2) Cut the fat of the bacon or pork into pieces about \ inch thick and 2 inches long. With a sharp knife make deep incisions all over the round of beef and very near each other. Put first a little of the season- ing into each hole, then a slip of the bacon pressed down hard and covered with more seasoning. Pour a little wine into each hole. When you have thus stuffed the upper side of the beef, turn it over and stuff in the same manner the under side. If the round is very large, you will require a larger quantity of seasoning. Put it in a deep baking dish, pour over it some wine, cover it, and let it set till next morning. It Meats 67 will be much the better for lying all night in the seasoning. Next day put a little water in the dish, set it in a covered oven, and bake or stew it gently for 12 hours at least, or more if it is a large round. It will be much improved by stewing it in lard. Let it remain all night in the oven. If it is to be eaten hot at dinner, put it in to stew the evening before, and let it cook till dinner-time the next day. Stir some wine and a beaten egg into the gravy. If brought to table cold, cover it all over with green parsley, and stick a large bunch of something green in the center. What is left will make an excellent hash the next day. BEEF FILLET, ROASTED This fillet lies only on the inside of the sirloin next to the chin, and is the tenderest part of the ox ; spit this on a small spit, but do not run it through the best part of the meat: roast it gently, and baste it with butter; catch gravy in a dish while the beef is roasting; in the meantime make a sauce for it with sweet herbs and parsley shred fine, the yolk of 4 eggs, an onion, and some orange-peel chopped small; put these into sweet butter, gravy, 1 to 2 spoonfuls of 68 The New Enghfid Cook Book strong broth and vinegar, stew them all together. Put your beef into this sauce and serve it hot. BEEF FILLET IN MADEIRA Lard a good fillet of beef, the same as for roast- ing, join the ends together, and place it in this man- ner in a stewpan, with some onions, carrots, and a bouquet garni, with some consomme and Madeira, cover it with a buttered paper; let it boil for a moment, and afterwards let it boil slowly. Put fire upon the top of your stewpan. When it is done strain the broth through a silk sieve, reduce it, and serve it as a sauce to your meat. BEEFSTEAK PIE Cut the steaks off a rump, or any nice piece of beef, fat and lean together, about ^ inch thick; beat them a little with a rolling pin, put over them some pepper, salt, and parboiled onion minced; roll them up and pack them neatly into the dish, or lay the beef in slices; add some spoonfuls of gravy, and 1 teaspoonful of vinegar. Cover the pie with a puff paste, and bake it for an hour. It is a common but mistaken opinion, that it is necessary to put stock or water into meat pies. Beef, mutton, veal and pork, if not previously dressed, will be found to yield a sufficiency of gravy, and the pie will be better with- 3Ieats 69 out any additional liquid. Large o3^sters, parboiled, bearded, and laid alternately with the steaks, their liquor reduced and substituted instead of the catsup and wine, will be a variety. BEEFSTEAK PUDDING Get rump steaks, not too thick, beat them with a chopper, cut them into pieces about half the size of your hand, and trim off all the skin, sinews, etc. ; have ready an onion peeled and chopped fine, like- wise some potatoes peeled and cut into slices ^ inch thick ; rub the inside of a basin or an oval plain mold with butter, sheet it with paste as directed for boiled puddings, season the steaks with pepper, salt and a little grated nutmeg; put In a layer of steak, then another of potatoes, and so on till it is full, occa- sionally throwing in part of the chopped onion; add to it ^ gill of mushroom catsup, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-pickle, and ^ gill of water or veal broth; roll out a top, and close it well to prevent the water get- ting in; rinse a clean cloth in hot water, sprinkle a little flour over it, and tie up the pudding; have ready a large pot of water boiling, put it in and boil it two hours and a half ; take it up, remove the cloth, turn it downwards In a deep dish, and when wanted take away the basin or mold. 70 The New England Cook Booh & BEEF, COLD TENDERLOIN Cut off the meat, with a little of the fat, into strips 3 inches long and ^ inch thick; season with pepper and salt, dredge them with flour, and fry them brown in butter; then simmer them in a rich brown gravy; add of mushroom, catsup, onion, and shallot vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of each. Garnish with fried parsley. BEEF HEART, TO ROAST Wash it well, and clean all the blood carefully from the pipes; parboil it 10 or 15 minutes in boil- ing water; drip the water from it; put in a stuffing that has been made of bread crumbs, minced suet or butter, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, and parsley, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Put it down to roast while hot, baste it well with butter, froth it up, and serve it with melted butter and vine- gar; or with gravy in the dish, and currant jelly in a sauce-tureen. FRIZZLED BEEF Sliver smoked beef, pour on boiling water to freshen it, then pour off the water and frizzle the beef in butter. Meats 71 BEEF RUMP, BAKED Take a rump of beef, what size you please, bone and lard it, season it with salt and fine spices ; put it into a stewpan just large enough to hold it, together with ^ pint of white wine, some green onions, mush- rooms, and shallots ; some lean bacon is an improve- ment. Place in covered pan, let it stew in an oven for 5 or 6 hours according to the size of your meat, then serve it with its own sauce, strained. You may dress a sirloin in the same way. BEEF RAGOUT Take a rump of beef, cut the meat from the bone, flour and fry it^ pour over it a little boiling water, about 1 pint of small beer; add a carrot or two, an onion stuck with cloves, some whole pepper, salt, a piece of lemon-peel, a bunch of sweet herbs; let it stew 1 hour, then add some good gravy; when the meat is tender take it out, strain the sauce, thicken it with a little flour, add a little celery ready boiled, a little catsup, put in the meat, just simmer it up. Or the celery may be omitted, and the ragout en- riched by adding mushrooms, fresh or pickled; arti- choke blossoms boiled and quartered, and hard yolks of eggs. A piece of flank, or any piece that can be cut free from bone, will do instead of the rump. 72 The New England Cook Book BEEF KIDNEY PIE Cut some kidneys into thin slices, and place them m the bottom of your pie-dish, then sweet herbs chopped, such as parsley, thyme, shallots, mush- rooms, pepper and salt; continue this till the dish is full, then cover the whole with slices of bacon, then finish your pie ; bake it in the oven ; when done, take out the bacon, and skim the fat; make a sauce with a glass of white wine, a tolerable quantity of cullis, and reduce it to the consistence of a good sauce, then squeeze an orange in it. Serve your pie hot. BEEF SHIN, STEWED Desire the butcher to saw the bone into three or four pieces, put it into a stewpan and just cover it with cold water ; when it simmers, skim it clean ; then put in a bundle of sweet herbs, a large onion, a head of celery, a dozen berries of black pepper, and the same of allspice ; stew very gently over a slow fire till the meat is tender; this will take from about 3^ to 4i^ hours. Take 3 carrots, peel and cut them into small squares ; peel and cut ready into small squares a couple of turnips with a couple of dozen of small young, round, silver, button onions ; boil them till ten- der; the turnips and onions will be cooked enough in about 15 minutes; the carrots will require about twice 3Ieats 73 as long: drain them dry. When the beef is quite tender, take it out carefully with a slice, and put it on a dish while you thicken IJ pints of the gravy : to do this, mix 3 tablespoonfuls of flour with 1 tea- cupful of the beef liquor; stir this thoroughly to- gether till it boils, skim off the fat, strain it through a sieve^ and put your vegetables in to warm; season with pepper, salt, and a wine-glass of mushroom catsup, or Port wine, or both, and pour it over the beef. A leg of mutton is excellent dressed the same way. BEEF SIRLOIN The noble sirloin of about 15 pounds (if much thicker, the outside will be done too much before the inside is enough), will require to be roasted about 3^ or 4 hours ; put a little clean dripping into the drip- ping-pan (tie a sheet of paper over it to preserve the fat), baste it well as soon as it is put down, and every quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting, till the last half hour; then take off the paper and make some gravy for it; to brown and froth it, sprinkle a little salt over it, baste it with butter, and dredge it with flour; let it go a few minutes longer till the froth rises, take it up, put it on the dish, etc. Garnish it with hillocks of horseradish, scraped as fine as possible with a very sharp knife. A York- shire pudding is an excellent accompaniment. 74 The New England Cook Book BEEF, STEWED Stew in 5 quarts of water the middle part of a brisket of beef weighing 10 pounds, add 2 onions stuck with 2 cloves, 1 head of celery, 1 large carrot, 2 turnips cut small, a handful of sorrel leaves, J ounce of black pepper and some salt. Stew it gently for 6 hours. Make a strong gravy with carrots and turnips, the turnips to be scraped and fried of a brown color in butter; add pepper, salt, a little cay- enne; thicken it with flour and butter, and pour it over the beef, with the carrots and turnips. CORNED BEEF Choose a good lean piece of corn beef weighing 12 pounds. Wash carefully, place in pot and cover with cold water. Let it boil slowly for 6 hours and be careful to remove the scum as it rises. If boiled vegetables are to be served with the corned beef such as carrots and turnips, they may be boiled in the com beef liquor. CORN BEEF HASH Take equal quantities of finely chopped cold cooked corned beef and cold boiled potatoes; for 1 pint of each, saute 2 tablespoonfuls of finely chopped Meats 75 onion in 1 tablespoonful of hot butter, and 1 table-, spoonful of flour, stir and cook 2 minutes, add 1 cup of stock or broth. When boiling, add the hash, season with \ teaspoonful of pepper and a level tea- spoonful of salt, a grating of nutmeg and a tea- spoonful of finely chopped parsley; let cook 5 min- utes and serve. CALF'S FOOT JELLY 4 feet, 4 quarts cold water, 2 lemons, 2 inch stick cinnamon, 3 eggs, 1 pint of wine, ^ box gelatine. Wash and split the feet, add water and cook at a low temperature until the amount of liquid is re- duced one-half. Strain through a clean flannel or napkin and a sieve. When cold remove the fat, add the whites and the shells of the eggs, the cinnamon, sugar (dissolved gelatine), and juice of the lemons. Stir until warm. Cook slowly 15 minutes. Add the wine. Skim and strain through a napkin into tumblers. 76 The New England Cook Book CALF LIVER, BROILED Slice it, season with pepper and salt, and broil nicely: rub a bit of cold butter on it, and serve hot. CALF'S HEART, ROASTED Fill the heart with the following forcemeat: a ^ pound of beef suet, chopped small, grated bread, parsley, marjoram, lemon-peel, pepper, salt, nutmeg and the yolk of an egg. Lay a veal caul, or a sheet of paper on the stuffing to keep it in its place. Put the heart into the oven, and baste it frequently till thoroughly roasted. Garnish with slices of lemon, and pour melted butter over it. CALF'S LIVER, LARDED AND ROASTED Lard a fine calf's liver the same as a fricandeau, and let it lie for 24 hours in vinegar, with a sliced onion, some parsley, a little thyme, a bay leaf, some salt and pepper. Roast and baste it well with but- ter, then glaze it with a light glaze, and serve it with a poivrade, or any other sauce. HAM WITH MADEIRA Soak in water for S hours a fine ham, boil it for 2 hours, trim it quickly, and then put it into a stewpan. Meats 77 with thin sHces of veal at the bottom ; add some car- rots and parsley, and season with spices. Pour over the ham 1 pint of rich stock and a bottle of Madeira ; let it boil for two hours, strain and skim the fat off the sauce, which, with the ham, must be served quite hot. HAM ROASTED WITH MADEIRA Take a fine ham, pare and trim it of as round a form as possible, take off the end bone, and remove the rind from the knuckle; then lay the ham on a gridiron over the fire, till you can take it up with ease; soak it, if necessary, and put it in a pan, with slices of carrots and onions, thyme, bay leaf, and coriander ; pour a bottle of Madeira upon it, cover it with a clean cloth, and close the pan as tight as pos- sible, and let it remain 24 hours ; then wrap the ham in very thick paper, fasten it with paste, so that it may be completely enclosed, tie it on a spit, and put it to roast for 3 hours ; then make a small hole in the paper, and pour in, by means of a funnel, the Ma- deira wine, paste paper over the hole, and let it roast another hour. When done, take off the paper care- fully, so that none of the gravy may escape, mix it with some reduced espagnole, glaze the ham, and serve it. 78 The New England Cook Book HAM TO STEW Soak the ham in lukewarm water for 12 hours, drain it, and scrape the rind; put it into a stewpan with some shces of fat bacon round the sides, 4 quarts of weak stock, a good deal of parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs, 6 large onions, 4 carrots, a little allspice and pepper, 1 pint of Madeira and 1 of Port wine. Cover the ham with slices of fat bacon, and put over it a sheet of white paper; stew it 8 hours, or 10 if it be a very large ham. Before serving, take off the rind, strain the sauce, skim it well, and boil it till reduced to a glaze, and pour it round the ham, or serve it with any other sauce that may be preferred. HAM TOAST Cut some crumb of bread into thin slices; then take an equal number of thin slices of ham ; beat them well with a rolling pin, and then soak them in warm water for about 2 hours; then take them out, dry them well, and put them into a saucepan with a lit- tle bacon, a slice of veal, and -J glass of stock; let them boil for ^ hour, and then add ^ glass of veal Blond. Fry your bread to a nice color in some lard ; lay it on a dish, and on each piece lay a slice of ham ; pour the sauce over them. Take particular care to Meats 79 cut the ham as nearly as possible the size and shape of the bread. HARICOT MUTTON (1) Cut the best end of a neck or loin of mutton, that has been kept till tender, into chops of equal thick- ness, 1 rib to each ; trim off some of the fat, and the lower end of the chine bone, and scrape it clean, and lay them in a stewpan, with 1 ounce of butter; set it over a smart fire. If your fire is not sharp, the chops will be done before they are colored. The intention of frying them is merely to give them a very light browning. While the chops are browning, peel and boil a couple of dozen of young button onions in about 3 pints of water for about 15 or 20 minutes, set them by, and pour off the liquor they were boiled in into the stewpan with the chops. If that is not sufficient to cover them, add as much boiling water as will remove the scum as it rises, and be careful they are not stewed too fast or too much; so take out one of them with a fish-slice, and try it. When they are ten- der, which will be in about \^ hours, then pass the gravy through a sieve into a basin, set in the open air that it may get cold. You may then easily and com- pletely skim off the fat. In the meantime set the meat and the vegetables by the fire to keep hot, and 80 The New England Cook Booh pour some boiling water over the button onions to warm them. Have about 6 ounces of carrots, and 8 ounces of turnips peeled and cut into slices, or shaped into balls about as big as a nutmeg. Boil the car- rots about ^ hour, the turnips about \ hour, and put them on a sieve to drain, and then put them round the dish the last thing. HARICOT MUTTON (2) Thicken the gravy by putting 1 ounce of butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, stir in as much flour as will stiffen it; pour the gravy to it by de- grees, stir together till it boils; strain it through a fine sieve or tamis into a stewpan ; put in the carrots and turnips to get warm, and let it simmer gently while you dish up the meat ; lay the chops round a dish, put the vegetables in the middle, and pour the thickened gravy over. Some put in capers, minced gherkins, etc. Rump steaks, veal-cutlets, and beef-tails, make ex- cellent dishes dressed in the like manner. LAMB CHOPS Cut a neck or loin of lamb into chops; rub them over with the beaten yolk of an egg; dip them into grated bread, mixed with plenty of chopped pars- Bleats 81 ley, and season with lemon-peel, pepper, and salt; fry them a light brown in good dripping; make a sauce with the trimmings, and thicken the same with butter rolled in flour; add a little lemon-pickle and mushroom catsup. Garnish with fried parsley. They may be served with or without the gravy. LAMB CHOPS, BROILED Cut a loin or best end of the neck into chops, flat- ten them, and cut off' the fat and skin ; rub the grid- iron with a little fat, and broil them on a clear fire. Turn them with steak tongs, till quite done. Serve them hot. LAMB CUTLETS Cut the cutlets off the loin, into round bits; trim off^ the fat and skim ; dip them into the beaten yolk of an egg, and then into bread crumbs, mixed with minced parsley, grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel, pep- per and salt. Fry them a light brown in clarified beef suet; drain them on the back of a sieve before the fire. Serve them with melted butter with a little lemon-pickle in it, or a brown sauce thickened. Garnish with cut lemon. 82 The New England Cook Book LAMB DRESSED WITH RICE Half roast a small fore quarter of lamb; cut it into steaks, season them with a little salt and pep- per; lay them into a dish, and pour in a little water. Boil a pound of rice with a blade or two of mace; strain it and stir in a good piece of fresh butter, and a little salt; add also the greater part of the yolks of 4 eggs beaten; cover the lamb with the rice, and with a feather put over it the remainder of the beaten eggs. Bake it in an oven till it has acquired a light brown color. LEG OF LAMB, BOILED It should be boiled in a cloth, that it may look as white as possible. Cut the loin in steaks, dip them in ^ggi strew them over with bread crumbs, and fry them a nice brown, serve them round the dish, and garnish with dried or fried parsley. Serve with spinage to eat with it. LAMB PIE, A SAVORY ONE Cut the meat into pieces, and season it with pep- per, salt, mace, cloves, and nutmeg, finely beaten. Meats 83 Make a good pufF paste crust, put the meat into it, with a few lamb stones and sweetbreads, seasoned the same as the meat. Then put in some oysters and forcemeat balls, the yolks of hard eggs, and the tops of asparagus, about S inches long, first boiled green. Put butter all over the pie, put on the lid, and let it bake for 1^ hours in a quick oven. In the mean- time, take a pint of gravy, the oyster liquor, a gill of red wine, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix all together with the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs, finely beaten, and keep stirring it the same way all the time. When it boils, pour it into the pie ; put on the lid again, and serve it to table. LAMB, TO ROAST OR BOIL A quarter of an hour is generally allowed to each pound of meat. A leg of lamb of 5 pounds will therefore take 1^ hours to roast or boil, the other joints in the same proportion. Serve either with salad, pickles, brocoli, cauliflowers, string beans, peas, potatoes, or cucumbers, raw or stewed. LAMB SHOULDER, GRILLED Boil it; score it in checkers about an inch square, rub it over with the yolk of an egg ; pepper and salt it; strew it with bread crumbs and dried parsley, or 84 The New England Cook Book sweet herbs ; grill, or broil it over a clear fire, or put it in a Dutch oven till it is a nice light brown ; send up some gravy with it, or make g, sauce for it of flour and water well mixed together with an ounce of fresh butter, a tablespoonful of mushroom or wal- nut catsup, and the juice of ^ lemon. Breasts of lamb are often done in the same way, and with mush- room or mutton sauce. LAMB STEAKS, FRIED Fry them of the nicest brown. When served, throw over them a good quantity of crumbs of bread fried, and crisped parsley. Or you may season them and broil them in buttered papers, either with crumbs and herbs, or without, according to taste. MARROW BONES Chop the bones at each end so as to stand steady; then wash them clean ; saw them in halves ; cover the top with a floured cloth. Boil them and serve with dry toast. MEAT CROQUETTES 1 pint of chopped cooked meat, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 cup of thick cream sauce (use double quantity of flour to make it thick), Meats 85 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice, a few grains of Cayenne pepper, 1 tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce, 2 eggs. After heating the meat in the cream sauce, add the seasonings and well-beaten egg; then set aside to cool, after which shape into cones, cover with bread crumbs, diluted egg and crumbs, and cook in smoking hot fat. For chicken croquettes mix equal parts of chopped chicken, sweetbreads, calf brains or veal, with the thick cream sauce and proceed as for meat croquettes. MUTTON, BREAST, ROASTED WITH WINE Skin and bone a breast of mutton; then roll it up in a collar like a breast of veal. Roast it, and baste it with | pint of red wine. When you have used up all the wine, finish basting with butter. Have a little good gravy in readiness, and when the mut- ton is done, set it upright in a dish; pour in the gravy; prepare sweet sauce the same as for venison, and send it up to table without any garnish. MUTTON CHOPS Cut the chops off a loin or the best end of a neck of mutton, pare off the fat, dip them into a beaten 86 The New England Cook Booh egg, and strew over them grated bread, seasoned with pepper, salt, and some finely-minced parsley ; fry them in a little butter, and lay them upon the back of a sieve to drain before the fire. Thicken about -J pint of gravy, add a tablespoonful of catsup, and 1 of Port wine ; put the gravy into the dish, and lay in the chops; garnish with fried parsley or cut lemon. MUTTON CHOPS, BAKED Cut a neck of mutton into neat chops, season them with salt and pepper, butter a dish, lay in the chops and pour over them a batter made of 1 quart of milk, 4 eggs beaten up, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, and a little salt. An hour will bake them. MUTTON, ROLLED Bone a shoulder of mutton carefully, so as not to injure the skin, cut all the meat from the skin, mince it small, and season it highly with pepper, nutmeg, and a clove, some parsley, lemon thyme, sweet mar- joram, and a pounded onion, all well mixed, together with a well-beaten yolk of an egg; roll it up very tightly in the skin, tie it round, and bake it in an oven 2 or S hours, according to the size of the mutton. Make a gravy of the bones and parings, season with an onion, pepper and salt, strain and Meats 87 thicken it with flour and butter; add vinegar, mush- room catsup, soy, and lemon-pickle, a tablespoon- ful of each, and a teacupful of Port wine; garnish with forcemeat balls, made of grated bread, and part of the mince. MUTTON SHOULDER, BAKED Lard a shoulder of mutton with streaked bacon; put it into an earthen stewpan proportioned to the size of the joint of meat, with 2 or 3 slices of onions, a parsnip and carrot sliced, 1 clove of garlic, 2 cloves, half a bay leaf and some basil; add about ^ pint of water or stock (stock is the best), some salt and pep- per; put the meat into the sauce, and set it in an oven. When the meat is done, strain the sauce through a sieve, and skim it, squeezing the vegetables so as to make a thickening for your sauce. Serve the sauce with the meat. MUTTON SHOULDER, STEWED Bone a shoulder of mutton with a sharp knife, and fill the space with the following stuffing: grated bread, minced suet, parsley, pepper, salt, and nut- meg, mixed with the yolks of two well-beaten eggs. Sew or fasten it with small skewers ; brown it in a 88 The New England Cook Book frjing-pan with a bit of butter. Break the bone, put it into a saucepan, with some water, an onion, pepper, salt, and a bunch of parsley; let it stew till the strength be extracted; strain and thicken it with butter rolled in flour; put it, with the mutton, and a glass of Port wine, into the saucepan ; cover it closely, and let it stew gently for 2 hours. Before serving, add 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup. Garnish with pickles. ROAST YOUNG PIG Take a young pig about 3 weeks old, rub with but- ter, fill with dressing and roast from IJ to 2 hours. Baste it often with olive oil. Dressing: Take 5 ounces of stale bread crumbs, mince fine a handful of sage; add a large chopped onion, add a beaten ^gg-, butter the size of an ^gg and salt and pepper to taste. Fill the pig and sew it up. Serve whole with an apple in its mouth. TO FRY TRIPE Cut it into bits 3 or 4 inches square; make a bat- ter thicker than for pancakes, of 3 eggs beaten up with flour and milk, a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; dip in the tripe, and fry it in butter, or fresh drip- ping, of a light brown color. Serve it garnished with parsley. Sauce: Melted butter with lemon- pickle in it. Meats 89 TRIPE, TO BOIL Clean it extremely well, and take off the fat; let it lie a night in salt and water; again wash it well, and let it lie in milk and water for the same length of time; then cut it into small pieces, roll and tie them with thread; put them, with a clean-washed marrow bone, into a linen bag; tie it closely and put it into a stewpan that has a cover to fit quite closely, fill it up with water, and let it boil gently for 6 hours. Take the tripe out of the bag, put it into a jar, and pour over it the liquor in which it was boiled. When to be dressed, boil some whole small onions in a part of the liquor, and a little salt, then put in the tripe and beat it thoroughly. Or it may be fried in butter fricasseed, or stewed in a brown sauce. Instead of being boiled in a bag, the tripe may be put, with some salt and whole pepper, into a stoneware jar, which must have a piece of linen tied over it, and a plate laid upon the top. The pot should always be kept full of boiling water, taking care that it does not boil into the jar. TRIPE PIE Lay into the bottom of a dish some thinly-sliced cold or raw ham, then put in a layer of tripe with the jelly adhering to it, season with pepper and salt, 90 The New England Cook Book and add a bit of butter; fill the dish in this manner, and put in a few tablespoonfuls of brown stock; cover the dish with puff paste. A beefsteak may be substituted for the ham, laid into the bottom, and the dish filled up with tripe. TO ROAST TRIPE Cut the tripe into two oblong pieces; make a forcemeat of bread crumbs and chopped parsley, sea- soned with pepper and salt; bind it with the yolks of two eggs ; spread it upon the fat side of the tripe, and lay on the other fat side. Then roll it very tightly, and tie it with packthread. Roast, and baste it with butter. It will take 1 hour, or 1^ hours. Serve it with melted butter, into which put a table- spoonful of catsup and one of lemon-pickle. TRIPE, BREADED Cut your tripe into small square pieces, and give them a few turns in some butter, with parsley, salt and pepper ; roll each bit in grated bread, and broil them slowly. When done, serve them with slices of lemon. TRUFFLES TOURTE Take 2 pounds of fine truffles, wash and pick them ; put them into a stewpan, with 6 thin slices of ham, Meats 91 a very little carrot, a sliced onion, a bay leaf, sweet herbs in powder, salt and Champagne ; lay rashers of bacon over the whole, and stew them to nearly a j elly. When cold, put the truffles into a crust with all the seasoning; bake the tourte, and serve as usual. SWEETBREADS FULL DRESSED Parboil them, and let them get cold. Then cut them in pieces, about f inch thick; dip them in the yolk of an egg, then in fine bread crumbs (some add spice, lemon-peel, and sweet herbs). Put some clean dripping into a frying pan. When it boils, put in the sweetbreads, and fry them a fine brown. For garnish, crisp parsley and for sauce, mushroom catsup and melted butter, or anchovy sauce, or bacon or ham. SWEETBREADS, SMALL CASES OF COLLOPS OF Blanch and parboil some sweetbreads; cut them into small collops. Then chop separately, and finely, ^ pint of mushrooms, a little parsley, and 4 or 6 shallots; add a little fat bacon rasped, and a piece of fresh butter; season the collops with pep- per, salt and a little mace; stew it all together over a slow fire. When done, drain off the fat, place 92 The New England Cook Book the collops in small paper cases, which have been fried in olive oil, cover them with plenty of fried bread crumbs ; lay the paper cases for a moment into the oven, and before serving, pour into each a little rich gravy, and a little lemon- juice. TO STEW TONGUE Wash it very clean, and rub it well with common salt and a little saltpeter; let it lie 2 or 3 days, and then boil it till the skin will pull off. Put it into a saucepan, with part of the liquor it has been boiled in, and a pint of good stock. Season with black and Jamaica pepper, and 2 or 3 pounded cloves ; add a glass of white wine and a tablespoonful of mush- room catsup, and 1 of lemon-pickle; thicken the sauce with butter rolled in flour, and pour it over the tongue. A SALT RELISH Cut salt pork into thin slices ; fry them till crisp ; take them out and pour a little water to the fat; dredge in a little flour, and put in a little pepper. Then cut up the pork in mouthfuls and put to this gravy. VENISON The choice of venison should be regulated by the appearance of the fat, which, when the venison is Meats 93 young, looks thick, clear, and close. As it begins to change first towards the haunches, run a knife into that part. If tainted, you will perceive a rank smell, and it will have a green or blackish appear- ance. If you wish to preserve it, you may by careful management and watching, keep it for a fortnight by the following method: Wash it well with milk and water very clean, and dry it perfectly with cloths until there is not the least damp remaining; then dust powdered ginger over every part. This is a good preventive against the fly. When to be dressed, wash it with a little lukewarm water, and dry it. Pepper should also be added to keep it. VENISON COLLOPS These are dressed in the same manner as mince collops of beef, only that, in place of the season- ing of the collops of beef, they have a little pepper, salt and some Port wine. VENISON HASHED (1) If you have enough of its own gravy left, it is preferable to any to warm it up in. If not, take some of the mutton gravy, or the bones and trim- 94 The New Endand Cook Book IJ pounds of malaga grapes, 9 bananas, 1| cups of ma3^onnaise, Salads 145 1^ cups of whipped cream, 1 head of curly lettuce. Cut oranges, seed and skin grapes and shred the pineapple, sprinkle this with ^ cup of sugar. Let stand in refrigerator until just before it is desired to serve, then cut up the bananas and arrange salad on lettuce and cover with the mayonnaise, which has been mixed with the whipped cream. This will serve HERRING SALAD Scald boneless salt herring. Dry and chill them. Shred and add equal quantity diced cold boiled pota- toes. Sprinkle with a little Cayenne and moisten lib- erally with French dressing. LENOX SALAD Marinate with French dressing equal quantities of stoned white grapes and blanched English walnuts. Serve on cress or lettuce with cream cheese balls, into which has been worked a little salt and a sprink- ling of paprika. LOBSTER SALAD Take two large boiled lobsters. Extract all the meat from the shell, and cut it up into very small pieces. 146 The New England Cook Booh For lobster salad, you must have lettuce instead of celery. Cut up the lettuce as small as possible. Make a dressing as for a chicken salad, with the yolks of 9 hard-boiled eggs, 4 pint of sweet oil, ^ pint of vinegar, ^ gill of mustard, 1 teaspoonful of Cayenne, and 1 teaspoonful of salt. Mix all well together with a wooden spoon. A few minutes before it is to be eaten, pour the dressing over the lobster and lettuce, and mix it very well. MAINE SALAD Add equal quantities of cold, flaked white fish and sliced cold potatoes, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper and pour over a French dressing. Chill on the ice, garnish with cowslip greens or lettuce, cold cooked beets, and pvmolas. SHAKER SALAD Quarter pears and remove the skin and core. Place on lettuce leaves and add equal quantity of stoned white grapes. Chill and serve with French dressing. SHRIMP SALAD Drain and mix well 2 cans or 1 pint of fresh shrimps. Add 2 cans or 1 quart of fresh cooked Salads 147 peas. Marinate in French dressing 1 hour, line dish with lettuce leaves, add peas and shrimps, dress with mayonnaise and hard-boiled eggs and serve very cold. SPINAGE SALAD Mince boiled spinage, place in individual molds and chill. Remove from molds, arrange on lettuce, add a slice of hard-boiled ^gg, spread with caviare and serv^e with chive dressing. STUFFED TOMATO SALAD Choose firm ripe tomatoes. Cut off a piece from the top and remove the seed. Stuff with chopped cu- cumber, gi'een pepper and minced onion thoroughly mixed with mayonnaise. Chill on ice and serve on delicate lettuce leaves. TOMATO AND GREEN PEPPER SALAD Cut 4 long green peppers lengthwise, removing all the white membrane and seed from the interiors. Pour over them boiling water, and set aside until the water is cool, then drain and throw into cold water until chilled. Cut into dice of uniform size and lay in iced water. Peel and cut into quarters 6 148 The New England Cook Book ripe tomatoes. Lay these in the ice until cold, then aiTange on a dish covered with lettuce. VEGETABLE SALAD One cup of cold, cooked carrots that have been diced, 4 small tomatoes cut in quarters, 6 sliced rad- ishes, and 1 cup of cooked new green peas. Dress liberally with French dressing, serve on romaine. Salad Dressings DRESSING FOR COLD SLAW Rub 2 tablespoonfuls of butter with 1 tablespoon- ful of flour, add 1 beaten egg, let cook until well blended, then add ^ cupful of hot vinegar, | tea- spoonful pepper and the same of dry mustard. Bring this to a boil, stirring all the while, set aside to cool and when ready to use add 1 teacupful of sour cream. CHIVE DRESSING To 6 tablespoonfuls of olive oil add S teaspoon- fuls of chopped chives, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon- juice, ^ teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful of pepper, and ^ teaspoonful of French mustard. Mix thor- oughly and serve. CURRY DRESSING 1 teaspoonful of curry powder, ^ teaspoonful French mustard, ^ teaspoonful English mustard, 149 150 The New England Cook Book Dash of Cayenne and a generous sprin- kling of white pepper, Add a teaspoonful each of chopped chives, parsley, ^ teaspoonful of onion juice, J of a lemon rind and all chopped fine. Mix thoroughly with half a cup white wine vine- gar, add 2 cups of olive oil and 1 of white wine vinegar. Place in covered jar and keep on ice to be used as needed. FRENCH DRESSING To 6 tablespoonfuls of olive oil, add slowly drop by drop 2 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, season with 1 teaspoonful of salt, ^ teaspoonful of pepper and a dash of Cayenne. MAYONNAISE DRESSING The success of mayonnaise largely depends upon having the ingredients thoroughly chilled. To the yolk of 1 raw egg slightly beaten, add a pinch of salt and gi'adually drop by drop 1 cup of olive oil, as it begins to get too thick, thin slightly with a few drops of lenwn- juice. When blended sea- son with 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful Salad Dressings 151 of lemon- juice, \ teaspoonful of salt, a dash of red pepper, and \ teaspoonful of dry mustard. MAYONNAISE (2) To the yolks of 3 raw eggs add drop by drop 9, cups of olive oil. The secret of thickening is to beat it gradually. When blended add 1 teaspoonful of dry mustard, 1^ teaspoonfuls of salt, 1 large table- spoonful of tarragon vinegar and 2 tablespoonfuls of cider vinegar. SALAD DRESSING 1 teaspoonful dry mustard, 1 teaspoonful salt, S teaspoonfuls sugar, Small tablespoonful flour. Mix dry ingredients together, beat up 2 eggs, and add to above, J of vinegar and small cup of boil- ing water. Add this to the above. Have heated in double boiler 3 tablespoonfuls of olive oil. After this is hot, add the other ingredients and cook until the consistency of cream. 152 The New England Cook Book SAUTERNE DRESSING To 3 tablespoonfuls of oil add 1 of sauteme, sea- son with i teaspoonful of salt and J of Cayenne. Mix thoroughly and chill before serving. Desserts, Puddings, Pies and Tarts APPLE CUSTARD Take ^ dozen very tart apples, and take off the skin and cores. Cook them till they begin to be soft, in ^ teacup of water. Then put them in a pudding- dish, and sugar them. Then beat 8 eggs with 4 spoonfuls of sugar, mix it with 3 pints of milk ; pour it over the apples, and bake for about ^ hour. BOILED APPLE PUDDING ^ pound of butter, 1 pound of flour, 2 dozen apples. Make a plain paste of the flour and butter. Sprinkle your pudding-bag with flour, roll the paste thin, and lay inside the bag, and fill the crust with apples nicely pared and cored. Draw the crust to- gether, and cut off* any extra paste about the folds ; tie the bag tight, and put it into boiling water. Boil it 2 hours. A layer of rice, nicely picked and washed, sprinkled inside the bag, instead of crust, 153 154 The New England Cook Book makes a very good pudding, called an Avalanche, Common dough rolled out makes a fine crust for tlie above, especially with a little butter worked in it. It is more healthful than the unleavened crust. APPLE SAUCE Pare, core, and slice some apples ; boil them in water, with a bit of lemon-peel; when tender, mash them ; add to them a bit of butter the size of a wal- nut, and some brown sugar. Heat, and serve in a sauce-tureen. CUSTARD Boil 6 peach leaves, or a lemon-peel, in 1 quart of milk, till it is flavored; cool it, add 3 tablespoon- f uls of sugar, and 5 eggs beaten to a froth. Put the custard into a double boiler, and stir it till cooked enough. Then turn it into cups, or, if preferred, it can be baked. BERRY PUDDING To 1 quart of washed whortleberries, put 1 pint of flour in which you have put a small teaspoonful of salt. Add a very little water. That which is upon the berries will be nearly enough. Boil it 9, hours in a cloth tied close, allowing no room to swell. To be eaten with melted sauce. Desserts 155 BERRY PUDDING (2) A pint of berries, 1 pint of flour, 1 pint of sour milk, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and 1 of saleratus. Boil it 2 hours. All boiled fruit puddings should be turned often in the pot, to prevent the fruit from settling on one side. Make a sweet sauce. BAKED INDIAN PUDDING Two quarts of milk, 1 large teacup of meal, ^ teacup of white flour, 2 eggs, ^ cup of molasses, 1 large teaspoonful of salt, J teaspoonful of ginger, and the same of cinnamon. To mix it, boil 3 pints of the milk and set it off from the fire. Have ready, beaten together, all the other ingredients in part of the remaining pint of milk. Stir them into the hot milk. Grease a stone pan, shaped like a common gallon pan of potter's ware. Let the mixture cool a little before putting it into the pan. Bake it in a moderate heat. When the top begins to brown, pour a little of the cold milk over it, and cover it with a plate. Bake from 4 to 5 hours. Put cold milk on the top 2 or 3 times while it is baking. If most convenient, a lit- tle finely-chopped suet can be substituted for the eggs. 156 The New England Cook Book BAKED INDIAN PUDDING (with Sweet Apples) Pare \% sweet apples and slice them, or take out the core with a tap-borer. Stir up a pudding of a quart of milk, and almost a quart of Indian meal; the measure may be filled quite full by using 1 or 2 spoonfuls of wheat flour. Add some salt, a tea- cup of molasses, and a little chopped suet. The milk should be boiled, and after it is taken from the fire, the meal and other ingredients stirred in. Then pour the whole over the apples. Bake 3 hours. BOILED INDIAN PUDDING 3 pints of milk, 10 heaping tablespoonfuls of sifted In- dian meal, ^ pint of molasses, 2 eggs. Scald the meal with the milk, add the molasses, and a teaspoonful of salt. Put in the eggs when it is cool enough not to scald them. Put in a table- spoonful of ginger. Tie the bag so that it will be about | full of the pudding, in order to give room to swell. The longer it is boiled the better. Some like a little chopped suet with the above. Desserts 157 BOSTON PUDDING Make a good common paste with H pounds of flour, and f pound of butter, or f pound of beef- suet, chopped very fine. Mix the suet at once with the flour, knead it with cold water into a stiff dough, and then roll it out into a large thin sheet. Fold it up and roll it again. When you roll it out the last time, cut off the edges, till you get the sheet of paste of an even square shape. Have ready some fruit sweetened to your taste. If cranberries, gooseberries, dried peaches, or dam- sons, they should be stewed, and made very sweet. If apples, they should be stewed in a very little water, drained, and seasoned with nutmeg, rose-water and lemon. If currants, raspberries, or blackber- ries, they should be mashed with sugar, and put into the pudding raw. Spread the fruit very thick, all over the sheet of paste (which must not be rolled out too thin). When it is covered all over with the fruit, roll it up, and close the dough at both ends, and down the last side. Tie the pudding in a cloth and boil it. Eat it with sugar. It must not be taken out of the pot till just before it is brought to table. 158 The New England Cook Book COCOANUT PUDDING ^ pound of cocoanut, grated, i pound of powdered white sugar, 3^ ounces of fresh butter, The whites only of 6 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of wine and brandy mixed, i teaspoonful of rose-water. Break up a cocoanut, and take the thin brown skin carefully off, with a knife. Wash all the pieces in cold water, and then wipe them dry, with a clean towel. Weigh | pound of cocoanut, and grate it very fine, into a soup-plate. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the liquor and rose-water gradually to them. Beat the whites only, of 6 eggs, till they stand alone on the rods ; and then stir the beaten white of egg, gradually, into the butter and sugar. Afterwards, sprinkle in, by degrees, the grated co- coanut, stirring hard all the time. Then stir all very well at the last. Have ready a puff paste, sufficient to cover the bottom, sides, and edges of a soup-plate. Put in the mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven, about •J hour. Grate loaf sugar over it, when cool. Desserts 159 FLOATING ISLAND Boil, with a pint of milk, a bit of cinnamon, and half the peel of a lemon; when almost cold, strain it, and mix with it the beaten white of 1, and the yolks of 3 eggs ; stir it over the fire till thick, pour it into a dish, and stir it now and then till cold. Whisk the whites of 2 eggs, and ^ pint of guava, quince, or red currant jelly, till it be very stiff. FRUIT SUET PUDDING Of finely-minced suet, flour, grated bread, and cleaned currants, J pound each ; 1 teaspoonful of pounded ginger, 1 of salt, 2 ounces of brown sugar, and 1 teacupf ul of milk ; mix all the ingredients well together, and boil it in a cloth for 2 hours. Serve it with a sweet sauce. MUSH, OR HASTY PUDDING Wet up the Indian meal in cold water, till there are no lumps, stir it gradually into boiling water which has been salted, till so thick that the stick will stand in it. Boil slowly, and so as not to bum, stirring often. Two or 3 hours' boiling is needed. Pour it into a broad, deep dish, let it grow cold, 160 The New England Cook Book cut it into slices -J inch thick, flour them, and fry them on a griddle with a little lard, or bake them in a stove oven. ORANGE PUDDING 1 large orange, of a deep color, and smooth thin rind, 1 lime, ^ pound of powdered white sugar, ^ pound of fresh butter, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of mixed wine and brandy, 1 teaspoonful of rose-water. Grate the yellow rind of the orange and lime, and squeeze the juice into a saucer or soup-plate, taking out all the seeds. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream. Beat the eggs as light as possible, and then stir them by degrees into the pan of butter and sugar. Add, gradually, the liquor and rose-water, and then by degrees, the orange and lime. Stir all well to- gether. Have ready a sheet of puff^ paste made of 5 ounces of sifted flour, and J pound of fresh butter. Lay the paste in a buttered soup-plate. Trim and notch the edges, and then put in the mixture. Bake it about I hour, in a moderate oven. Grate loaf sugar over it, before you send it to table. Desserts 161 RAILROAD PUDDING One cup of molasses, 1 of sweet milk, 1 of suet or of salt pork chopped fine ; 4 cups of flour, 1 tea- spoonful of saleratus, and if suet is used, 1 of salt, 1 cup of chopped raisins, 1 of currants. Warm the molasses and stir the saleratus into it; mix the suet or pork with the flour, then stir all together, and steam it 4 hours, according to the directions for Brown Bread No. 2. Make a melted sauce, or the sour cream sauce. RICE PUDDING Wash a small cofl^ee-cup of rice and put it into 3 pints of milk over night. In the morning add a piece of butter ^ as large as an ^gg, a teacup of sugar, a little salt, cinnamon, or nutmeg. Bake very slowly 2J hours in the oven. After it has be- come hot enough to melt the butter, but not to brown the top, stir it (without moving the dish, if you can) from the bottom. If raisins are to be used, put them in now. They add much to the richness of the pudding. It is a very good pudding for so plain a kind, and is very little trouble. For a Sun- day dinner, where a cooking stove is used, it is very convenient, as it employs but a few minutes to pre- pare it in the morning. 162 The New England Cook Book BOILED PLUM PUDDING Put to a quart of boiled milk, 12 pounded crackers, \ pound of suet, 1 pound of currants, ^ pound of raisins, a little salt, and a teacup of molasses. Steam in a pudding-pan, or boil it 3J hours in a cloth or buttered bowl. To be eaten with sauce. SAGO PUDDING Wash 6 tablespoonfuls of pearl sago and put it to soak in a large pint of warm water. Pare 6 good-sized, mellow, sour apples, and remove the cores. Wash them, butter a deep pudding-dish, and lay them in, with the open end up. Measure a tea- cup of sugar, fill the holes with it, and then grate -| nutmeg over the apples. Dissolve a little salt and the rest of the sugar, in the water with the sago ; pour f of the mixture over the apples, and set the dish in the oven or stove. After 1 hour take it out, and press the apples down gently without breaking them. See that none of the sago lies above the water. Return the dish to the oven and bake it an- other hour. It is to be eaten with sugar and milk, or cream, and is a very delicate and healthful pudding. SALEM PUDDING Three coffee-cups of flour, 1 of milk, 1 of chopped raisins, 1 of suet or salt pork chopped very fine, f Desserts 163 cup of molasses, a small teaspoonful of powdered cloves, ^ nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of saleratus, and if suet is used instead of pork, a little salt. Warm the molasses and dissolve the saleratus in it, mix the suet, flour, and raisins, then put all the in- gredients together. Boil or steam it 4 hours. Make a melted sauce. SWEET POTATO PUDDING ^ pound of boiled sweet potato, 3 eggs, ^ pound of powdered white sugar, ^ pound of fresh butter, 1 glass of mixed wine and brandy, ^ glass of rose-water, 1 teaspoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, mace and cinnamon. Pound the spice, allowing a smaller proportion of mace than of nutmeg and cinnamon. Boil and peal some sweet potatoes, and when they are cold, weigh ^ pound. Mash the sweet potato very smooth, and rub it through a sieve. Stir the sugar and butter to a cream. Beat the eggs very light, and stir them into the butter and sugar, alternately with the sweet potato. Add by degrees the liquor, rose-water and spice. Stir all very hard together. 164 The New England Cook Book Spread puff paste on a soup-plate. Put in the mixture, and bake it about ^ hour in a moderate oven. Grate sugar over it. SUET PUDDING A pint of suet chopped very fine, 1 pint of chopped apples, 2 gills of milk, 1 gill of molasses, 1 large teaspoonful of salt, and flour enough to make it rather stiff. Boil it 4 hours. This should be boiled in a close tin pail or pudding-pan, in a kettle of water. Such a pudding as this is too hearty to be eaten after meat, and is substantial enough to constitute a dinner. PLAIN PASTE One pie. IJ cupfuls of flour, ■J teaspoonful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls cottolene or lard. Ice cold water. Have things as cold as possible. With a knife chop the shortening into the sifted flour and salt un- til the pieces are about as large as a bean. Make a Desserts 165 well in the center, add the water slowly, mixing with knife until all the flour is moistened, and a dry crumbly paste is obtained. Turn it out upon the board and press into shape with the hands, after which flatten it by pounding lightly with rolling pin. Fold the ends to the center, turn and continue the pounding until the paste is smooth, after which set aside in a very cold place until ready to use. Divide and roll each piece into a thin sheet. Fit it loosely into the pie tin, pressing out all air, trim the edge by holding the handle of the knife under the pan ; put the filling into it and moisten edge with water before putting on the cover. TART PASTE, FOR FAMILY PIES Rub in with the hand ^ pound of butter into Ij pounds of flour, mix it with ^ pint of water, and knead it well. APPLE TART, CREAMED Use green codlings, in preference to any other apple, and proceed as in the last recipe. When the pie is done, cut out the whole of the center, leaving the edges ; when cold, pour on the apple some rich boiled custard, and place round it some small leaves of puff* paste of a light color. 166 The New England Cook Book CHERRY TART The cherries may be stoned, and a few red cur- rants added; sweeten it with loaf or brown sugar, and put into the bottom of the dish a small tea- cup; cover it with paste. CRANBERRY TART Take cranberries, pick and wash them in several waters, put them into a dish, with the juice of -J lemon, ^ pound of moist or pounded loaf sugar, to a quart of cranberries. Cover it with puff or tart paste and bake it f hour. If tart paste is used, draw it from the oven 5 minutes before it is done, and ice it, return it to the oven, and send it to table cold. CURRANT TART To a quart of red currants add 1 pint of red rasp- berries, strawberries, or cherries ; sweeten them well with brown sugar; before putting in the fruit, line the side of the dish with tart paste, place it in a small teacup, put in the fruit, and cover it with paste. Four ounces of brown sugar are generally allowed to a quart of fruit. Desserts 167 TARTLETS Butter some small tartlet pans ; line them with a nice thin pufF paste, mark it neatly round the edges, bake them ; when they are cold, fill them with custard, preserve, or any sweetmeat you think proper, and if you choose, pour custard over. TART OF PRESERVED FRUIT (1) Cover a flat dish, or tourte pan, with tart paste, about ^ inch thick ; roll out puff^ paste, J inch thick, and cut it out in strips 1 inch wide; wet the tart paste, and lay it neatly round the pan by way of a rim; fill the center with jam or marmalade of any kind, ornament it with small leaves of puff paste, bake it ^ hour, and send it to table cold. The above may be filled before the puff paste is laid on, neatly strung with paste, and the rim put over after. The most general way of sending tourtes to table, is with a croquant of paste, or a caramel of spun sugar put over after it is baked. 168 The New England Cook Book iTART OF PRESERVED FRUIT (g) Rub over with a little butter an oval dish, or tin shape, line it with paste, and fill it with any sort of preserved fruit. Roll out a bit of paste thin, and, with a paste cutter, cut it into narrow strips; brush with water the rim of the shape, and lay the bars of paste across and across, and then put round a border of paste, and mark it with the paste cutter. TARTS OF RIPE FRUIT Gooseberries, damsons, morello cherries, currants mixed with raspberries, plums, green gages, white plums, etc., should be picked quite fresh, and washed. Lay them in the dish with the center highest, and about J pound of moist or loaf sugar pounded to a quart of fruit (but if quite ripe they will not re- quire so much) ; add a little water ; rub the edges of the dish with yolk of egg ; cover it with tart paste about ^ inch thick ; press your thumb round the rim, and close it well; pare it round with a knife; make a hole in the sides below the rim; bake it in a mod- erate-heated oven; and 10 minutes before it is done, take it out and ice it, and retura it to the oven to dry. Desserts 169 RHUBARB TART Strip off the peel, and if the rhubarb is large, cut it into 2 or 3 strips, and then into bits about an inch long; sweeten well with brown sugar, and cover the dish with paste. MINCE MEAT IJ pound of lean beef cooked and chopped fine, ^ pound of chopped suet, sprinkle with 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 pound of seed raisins, 1 pound of currants, ^ pound citron, The grated juice and rind of 1 lemon and 1 orange, S pounds of chopped apples, 2 pounds of sugar, ^ grated nutmeg, ^ tablespoonful each of cinnamon, clove and allspice. Add enough cider to thoroughly moisten. Keep in jar in cool place. Just before using add a tea- spoonful of brandy to sufficient quantity of mince- meat for each pie. 170 The New England Cook Book TRIFLE Mix 3 tablespoonfuls of white wine, and 1 of su- gar, with 1^ pints of thick cream; whisk it, and take off as much froth as will heap upon the dish, into which lay some pieces of sponge cake, or some sponge biscuit, soaked with sweet wine, and covered with preserved strawberries, or any other fruit; pile the froth upon this, and pour the remainder of the cream into the bottom of the dish ; garnish with flow- ers. WHIM WHAM Sweeten a quart of cream, and mix with it a tea- cupful of white wine, and the grated peel of a lemon ; whisk it to a froth, which drain upon the back of a sieve, and put part into a deep glass dish; cut some macaroon biscuits as thin as possible, and put a layer lightly over the froth, and one of red currant jelly, then a layer of the froth, and one of the bis- cuit and jelly; finish with the froth, and pour the remainder of the cream into the dish, and garnish with citron and candied orange-peel cut into straws. Sauces for Puddings and Other Desserts LEMON SAUCE Pare a lemon, and cut it into slices twice as thick as a half-crown piece ; divide these into dice, and put them into ^ pint of melted butter. Some cooks mince a bit of the lemon-peel (pared very thin) very fine, and add it to the above. PUDDING SAUCE Mix with ^ pint of melted butter 2 wine-glasses of sherry, and a tablespoonful of pounded loaf sugar; make it quite hot, and serve in a sauce-tureen, with grated nutmeg on the top. HARD SAUCE Blend ^ cup of well-beaten butter with 1 cup of fine sugar, beat until creamy. Flavor with a few drops of vanilla, beat again. Place in dish, sprinkle with a grating of nutmeg and keep in cool place un- til ready to serve. 171 172 The New England Cook Book BRANDY SAUCE Prepare a hard sauce and add 1 gill of brandy and ^ cupful of boiling water, while stirring constantly. PINEAPPLE SAUCE Add to hard sauce 1 cupful of grated pineapple. STRAWBERRY SAUCE Add to hard sauce 1 cupful of crushed strawber- ries, or ^ cup of preserved strawberry juice. ICING FOR FRUIT TARTS, PUFFS, OR PASTRY Beat up in | pint mug the white of 2 eggs to a solid froth; lay some on the middle of the pie with a paste brush; sift over plenty of pounded sugar, and press it down with the hand, wash out the brush, and splash by degrees with water till the sugar is dissolved, and put it in the oven for 10 minutes, and serve it up cold. Frozen Desserts, Ice Creams and Sherbets ICE CREAMS Directions for freezing: After scalding the can, cool it and place it in posi- tion in the bucket, turn the crank to be sure it is fitted perfectly. Then pack the space between the can and bucket with a mixture of finely-chopped ice and coarse salt, in the proportion of ^ salt to f ice. When packed even with the top of the can, open and pour in the mixture to be frozen, cover and let stand 10 or 15 minutes, then turn the crank as long as possible, after which remove the dasher, press the cream down into the can. Cover with a piece of paper, then the can cover, closing the opening at the top, repack with salt and ice, and let stand 2 hours to ripen. Do not pour off the water as soon as the ice melts, only when it rises to the top of the can. VANILLA CREAM 1 quart of cream, 1 pint of milk, 173 174 The New England Cook Book 1 cup of sugar (finely granulated), 1 tablespoonful of vanilla. Add the sugar to the scalded milk and cream, cool, flavor and freeze. Equal to ^ gallon. CHOCOLATE Allow 1 ounce for each pint of liquid, slowly add the scalded cream to the melted chocolate. STRAWBERRY 1 pint of crushed strawberries, 1 quart of cream, 1 pint of milk. In addition to the 1 cup of sugar, you must add sufficient sugar to sweeten the berries, usually 1 cup extra. ORANGE WATER ICE 1 quart water, 2 cups sugar. Juice of 1 dozen oranges. Boil the water, sugar, and rind of 2 oranges 5 min- utes. Cool and add juice of the oranges, strain through muslin and freeze. Frozen Desserts 175 COFFEE JELLY ^ package gelatine, ^ cup cold water, 1§ cups boiling water, ■J cup sugar, 2 cups strong filtered coffee. Soak the gelatine in the cold water until soft. Add the boiling water, sugar and coffee. When the sugar is dissolved, strain through a napkin into molds or glasses which have been wet in cold water. SeiTe with cream and whipped cream. LEMON JELLY ^ package of gelatine, ■J cup of cold water, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 cup of sugar, f cup of lemon- juice. Soak gelatine in cold water until soft. Add the boiling water, sugar and lemon-juice. Strain through a napkin into molds or glasses which have been wet in cold water. For orange jelly use the same recipe, using only 1 cup boihng water and 1 pint of orange- juice, with the juice of 1 lemon. 176 The New England Cook Book WINE JELLY, •J package of gelatine, ^ cup of cold water, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 cup of sugar, 1 lemon, 1 cup of wine. Soak the gelatine in the cold water until it is soft ; add the boiling water and the sugar. Stir un- til the sugar is dissolved, then add the lemon-juice, and when cooled, the wine. Strain through a nap- kin. Harden it by placing near the ice. GRAPE SHERBET For 8 persons mix 1 pint of grape- juice (unfer- mented), juice of lemon, and 1 heaping tablespoon- ful of gelatine, dissolved in boiling water; freeze quickly; add beaten white of 1 egg just before finish. LEMON SHERBET 2J cups of sugar, 1 quart water, 5 lemons, White of 1 egg. Frozen Desserts 177 Boll the sugar and water 5 minutes, then cool. Add the juice of lemons, strain and freeze. Add the beaten white of 1 Qgg and pack until needed. MILK SHERBET 1 quart milk, 2 cups sugar. Juice of 3 large lemons. Freeze the milk and sugar, add the juice of lemons and freeze again, or mix all the ingredients and freeze. Pack until needed. PINEAPPLE SHERBET 1 tablespoonful of gelatine, 1 pint of water, 1 pint of fresh fruit, 1 pint of sugar. Soak gelatine in enough of the pint of water to soften it. Heat the remainder of the water and pour it over the gelatine. The fruit should be grated and stand 1 hour or more with the sugar over it, then added to the dissolved gelatine and strained. Freeze and pack it. 178 The New England Cook Book CHARLOTTE RUSSE Chill cream thoroughly, ^ cup powdered sugar, 1 pint of cream, 1 tablespoon ful gelatine, soak a few min- utes in a little cream. Separate the whites from the yolks of 2 eggs, set whites aside in cold closet un- til ready for them. Whip the cream, and the portion at the bottom which will not cream add to gelatine. Place this over the fire until the gelatine melts; add ^ cupful of powdered sugar; place over hot water and stir until it softens, or add instead J cup of boiling water and place over hot water until it is dissolved. Add whipped cream, turn into a mold and let it stand 2 hours. One can add whites of 2 eggs whipped to a stiff froth but these can be omitted. Do not add gelatine until it is cold and begins to thicken ; when cool add flavoring, 1 teaspoonful vanilla, or ^ teaspoonful of pistachio and ^ vanilla. (When it retains its shape when turned to the surface, it is in condition to turn into the mold.) To freeze charlotte, grease a paper and put the greased side out; then bind a cloth, which has been Frozen Desserts 179 dipped in melted butter, around the edge of mold firmly and put in ice and salt for 2 hours. LITTLE CREAMS OF CHESTNUTS 25 chestnuts, 6 or 8 almonds, ^ ounce gelatine, 1 cupful milk, f cupful sugar, 1 teaspoonful vanilla, ^ teaspoonful lemon or a few drops of pistachio, 1 cupful cream. After shelling and blanching nuts, cook slowly until tender, then pass through a strainer. Soak gelatine in a portion of milk, dissolve over hot water. Add sugar and let it dissolve. Add remainder of milk and mix carefully with the strained nuts, flavor, strain and set aside until it begins to congeal, after which carefully fold in the cream which has been whipped; put into molds and when firm serve with whipped cream and candied fruit. Bread, Biscuits and Cakes BREAD S pints of scalded milk, or water, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 cake of yeast. About 7 quarts of flour. To the scalded milk add butter, sugar and salt, mix and cool until lukewarm, after which add the yeast which has been dissolved in a little of the luke- warm mixture; then add sufficient flour to make a thick batter and beat vigorously until smooth and full of bubbles. Cover and set in a warm place for several hours (2 hours) or until spongy. To this add enough more flour to make a soft dough, turn out on a bread board and knead until perfectly smooth, after which return it to the bowl, grease the surface, cover closely and set in a warm place un- til it has doubled its bulk, then shape into loaves, or rolls, grease the surface and let stand until risen double its bulk, then bake in a moderate oven. Loaf bread from f to 1 hour; rolls from 20 to 30 min- 180 Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 181 utes. Do not crowd the rolls and bake bread in small pans. When done place on a wire basket to cool. BREAD STICKS Roll light dough into a sheet, then cut into strips \ inch wide, lay on a greased tin, brush with butter, and when light bake until brown. CINNAMOlsr OR CURRANT BUNS To the sponge add 2 well-beaten eggs, 1 cup of sugar, then the flour and proceed as directed for bread; when light roll in to a sheet spread with but- ter, sugar, cinnamon and currants; then roll up and cut in slices 1 inch thick ; put into a greased pan with cut side up ; let stand 20 or 30 minutes ; then bake until brown. BOSTON CORN CAKE 1 cup of flour. 4 cup of cornmeal. 4 cup of sugar, 1 egg well beaten, 1 cup of milk. 1 teaspoonful of soda, 182 The New England Cook Book 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, A little salt. Bake in a moderate oven about 20 minutes or un- til done. BUTTERMILK BISCUIT Take ^ pint of buttermilk, or sour milk, and 1 pint of flour. Rub into the flour a piece of butter half the size of an egg. Add a little salt and stir the milk into the flour. Dissolve a teaspoonful of saleratus in a very little hot water, and stir into it. Add flour enough barely to mold it smooth; roll it out upon the board, and cut out and bake exactly like the tea biscuit. The advantage of putting in the saleratus after the dough is partly mixed, is, that the foaming process occasioned by combining the sour milk and alkali, raises the whole mass ; where- as, if it is stirred first into the milk, much of the ef- fervescence is lost, before it is added to the flour. CREAM BISCUIT These are to be made in the same manner as the buttermilk biscuit, except that no butter is required; the cream will make them sufficiently short. Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 183 CREAM OF TARTAR BIS- CUIT WITHOUT MILK Rub a piece of butter the size of an Qgg into a quart of flour till there are no little lumps. Then add a teaspoonful of salt, and scatter in 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Have ready a pint of cold water, in which a heaping teaspoonful of saleratus or soda has been dissolved; pour it into the flour, stirring it quickly with your hand. Do this several times that the ingredients may become well mixed; then add flour enough to enable you to mold it smooth. Roll it out the same thickness as tea biscuit. If these are made right, they are as light as foam. They may be made of unbolted flour, if preferred. Make half the measure for a small family. FRIED BISCUIT Work a piece of butter the size of an egg Into a large pint of light bread dough. When it has risen again, roll it very thin, cut it into circles or squares, and fry them for breakfast. Eat them with salt, or with cider and sugar. All crullers and dough- nuts are much more healthful fried in clarified drip- pings of roast meat, than in lard ; and it is, besides, good economy. 184 The New England Cook Book BOSTON BROWN BREAD (1) Take a quart of rye meal, and the same of fine Indian meal. (If this is bitter, scald it before mix- ing it with the rye. If it is sweet and fresh, almost everything in which it is used is lighter without its being scalded.) Mix with warm water, a gill of mo- lasses, a teaspoonful of saleratus, a large teaspoon- ful of salt, and ^ gill of yeast. Such bread is improved by the addition of a gill of boiled pumpkin or winter squash. Make it stiff as can easily be stirred. Grease a deep, brown pan, thickly, and put the bread in it, and dip your hand in water and smooth over the top. This will rise faster than other bread, and should not be made over night in the summer. If put into the oven in the forenoon, it will be ready for the tea table. If in the after- noon, let it stand in the oven till morning. This may be steamed, as directed in the next recipe. BOSTON BROWN BREAD For a very small family, take J pint of rye meal, not sifted, and a pint of sifted Indian meal, a pint of sour milk, ^ gill of molasses, a teaspoonful of salt, and a large teaspoonful of saleratus. ^lix all the Bi'ead, Biscuits and Cakes 185 ingredients except the saleratus, dissolve that (as it should always be) in a little boiling water, and add it, stirring the mixture well. Grease a tin pudding- pan, or a pail having a close lid, and having put the bread in it, set it into a kettle of boiling water. The bread should not quite fill the pail, as it must have room to swell. See that the water does not boil up to the top of the pail, and also take care it does not boil entirely away. The bread should be cooked at least 4 hours. To serve it, remove the lid, and set it a few minutes into the stove oven, without the lid, to dry the top ; then it will turn out in perfect shape. If used as a pudding, those who have cream, can make an excellent sauce for it of thick sour cream, by stirring into it plenty of sugar, and adding nut- meg. This bread is improved by being made, and put into the pan or pail in which it is to be boiled, 2 or 3 hours before it is set into the kettle. It is good toasted the next day. BOSTON BROWN BREAD (3) ^ cup com meal, ^ cup graham flour, ^ cup wheat flour, ^ teaspoonful salt, 186 The New England Cook Book I teaspoon soda, i cup of molasses, 1 cup sour milk. Boil 4 hours. GRAHAM BREAD Take a pint of warm water, 1 teacup of white flour, a spoonful of scalded Indian meal, a small tea- cup of yeast, 1 or 2 spoonfuls of molasses, a tea- spoonful of salt, a small one of saleratus, and stir them together; then add as much unbolted, or Gra- ham flour {not sifted) as can be stirred in with a spoon. Do this over night, and in the morning stir it again a few minutes, and pour it into 2 deep tin pans. Let it rise up again, and bake an hour. This is very excellent bread — a different thing from the hard, unpalatable article which many a dyspeptic eats as a penance. Like the wheat sponge, it is good baked in rings on a griddle for breakfast. It will, however, take sev- eral minutes longer, and wiU more easily burn, ow- ing to the molasses which is in it. INDIAN LOAF To 1 quart of sweet milk, put a gill of molasses, a teaspoonful of saleratus, a heaping pint of Indian Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 187 meal, a gill of flour, and a teaspoonful of salt. Stir it well together, put it into a deep brown pan, and bake in a slow oven. It should be stirred the last thing before being set into the oven. It must be in the oven many hours, at least 8 or 9, if it is a brick oven, and if set in towards night should stand till morning. If it is baked in a range, it will re- quire 5 or 6 hours of moderate heat. LITCHFIELD CRACKERS To 1 pint of cold milk, put a piece of butter the size of an egg, 1 small teaspoonful of salt, and 1 egg. Rub the butter into 1 quart of flour, then add the egg and milk. Knead in more flour until it is as stiff as it can possibly be made, and pound it with an iron pestle, or the broad end of a flatiron, for at least 1 hour; then roll it very thin, cut it into rounds, prick, and bake in a quick oven, 12 or 15 minutes. PARKER HOUSE ROLLS 1 yeast cake, 1 pint milk, scalded and cooled, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls lard or butter, melted, 3 pints sifted flour, 1 teaspoonful salt. 188 The New England Cook Book Dissolve jeast and sugar in lukewarm milk, add lard or butter and 1^ pints of flour. Beat until perfectly smooth. Cover and let rise in a warm place 1 hour, or until light. Then add remainder of flour, or enough to make a dough, and lastly the salt. Knead it well. Place in greased bowl. Cover and let rise in a warm place for about 1^ hours, or until double in bulk. Roll out J inch thick. Brush over lightly with butter, cut with 2-inch bis- cuit-cutter, crease through center heavily, with dull edge of knife, and fold over in pocketbook shape. Place in well-greased, shallow pans 1 inch apart. Cover and let rise until light — about f hour. Bake 10 minutes in hot oven. RYE BREAD Take a pint of water, and a large spoonful of fine Indian meal, and make it into gruel. Add a pint of milk, and when cool enough, a small gill of yeast, and then the flour. Fine, bolted rye flour is necessary to make this bread good. Knead it about as stiff as white bread. Let it rise over night, and then mold and put into 3 pans to rise again. When light, bake it about 1 hour. Rye is very ad- hesive, and a young cook will be troubled with its sticking to her fingers, but practice will make it easy to manage. Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 189 ALBANY BREAKFAST CAKES 10 well-beaten eggs, 3 pints of milk, blood warm, ^ pound of melted butter, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, 1 teaspoonful of saleratus, dissolved in a spoonful of hot water. Make a thick batter with white Indian meal, and bake in buttered tins, an inch thick when put in. Bake 30 or 40 minutes, in a quick oven. BRIDGET'S BREAD CAKE 3 cups of dough, very light, 3 cups of sugar, 1 cup of butter, 1 nutmeg, 3 eggs, ^ cup raisins, 1 teaspoonful of pearlash, dissolved in a little hot water. Rub the butter and sugar together, add the eggs and spice, and mix all thoroughly with the dough. Beat it well, and pour into the pans. It will do to bake it immediately, but the cake will be lighter if 190 The New England Cook Book it stands a short time to rise, before putting it into the oven. It is an excellent cake for conniion use. It is v€rij important that the ingredients should be thoroughly mixed with the dough. CARAWAY CAKES (1) Three-quarters of a pound of flour, ^ pound of butter well inibbed into it, ^ pound of sifted loaf sugar, and some caraway seeds. Make these into a stiff paste with a little cold water, roll it out 2 or 3 times, cut it into round cakes, prick them, and bake them upon floured tins. For a change, cur- rants may be substituted for the carav/ay seeds. CARAWAY CAKES (2) 52 quarts of flour, 1 cup of butter, , 1 quart of rolled sugar, 4 pint of caraway seeds, 1 teaspoonful of essence of lemon. Mix the sugar and butter to a cream, add the other materials, roll out, and cut into square cakes, and crimp the edges. Sal volatile the size of a nutmeg, dissolved in a little hot water, improves this. Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 191 CRULLERS 5 cups of flour, 1 cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of rose-water, Nutmeg. Rub the butter and sugar together, add the eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately, then the flour. Roll into a sheet about | inch thick, cut this with a jagging-iron into long narrow strips. Twist them into various shapes, and fry them in hot lard, to a light brown. The fat must be abundant in quan- tity, and very hot, to prevent the lard from soaking into the cake. DOUGHNUTS 1 egg, i cup sugar, ^ cup milk, A pinch of salt, A little nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter. About 3 cups flour, IJ teaspoonfuls baking powder. Roll, cut in rings, and drop in hot fat. Fry un- til brown. 192 The Nerv England Cook Book RAISED DOUGHNUTS Boil a quart of milk, and rub smooth in a little cold milk a large gill of ground rice; when the milk boils up, stir in the rice and a little salt. Let it boil till it thickens, stirring it 2 or 3 times. Pour it, hot, upon a quart of flour; when cool enough, add a gill of yeast, and flour enough to make it stiffs as bread. Knead it a great deal. Let it rise over night, and when very light, work in f pound of butter, 1^ pounds of sugar beaten in 5 eggs, and add nutmeg and lemon-juice and rind. Let it rise again, and then roll out and fry it. Light bread dough, which is wet with milk, may be made into plain, or rice doughnuts, as preferred, with very little trouble. Prepare the dough as directed in the recipe for rusk, and add 2 or 3 eggs, if con- venient. FOURRES Make a puff paste, form it into 2 equal parts the size of the dish in which you mean to place your cake, and the thickness of 2 crowns each ; then take 1 of the cakes and put upon it some sweetmeats, leav- ing about an inch, as a border, all round ; wet it with water and place the other cake upon it, draw up the edges carefully with your fingers ; gild them with the yolk of egg^ and bake them in an oven. Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 193 APPLE SAUCE CAKE 2 cups of flour, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup apple sauce (very thick), 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful cloves, 9, tablespoonfuls melted butter, 1 pound raisins, 1 teaspoonful of soda in 1 cup of hot water. Bake in slow oven about 1 hour. FRUIT CAKE WITHOUT EGGS S pounds of flour, If pounds of sugar, 1 pint of milk, J pound of butter, ^ teaspoonful of salt, 1^ teaspoonful of soda, or saleratus, or 2 of sal volatile, dissolved in a little hot water, 1 nutmeg, 1 pound of raisins, 1 wine-glass of brandy. This makes 3 loaves. 194 The New England Cook Book Warm the milk, and add the butter and salt to it. Work the butter and sugar to a cream, and then add the milk, then the flour, then the saleratus, and lastly the spice and fruit. GINGER BREAD 1 pound of sugar, 1 pound of sifted flour, ^ pound of butter, 6 eggs, 2 even tablespoonfuls of ginger, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. Rub the butter and sugar together, add the eggs well beaten, the flour and ginger, and bake in 9> square tin sheets. GINGERNUTS 6 pounds of flour, 1 J pounds of butter, rubbed into the sugar. If pounds of sugar, 1 quart of molasses, 4 ounces of ginger, 1 nutmeg. Some cinnamon. The dough should be stifle, and then kneaded hard for a long time. Cut into small cakes. They will Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 195 keep good, closely covered in a stone jar, for many months. GINGER SNAPS 1 cup of molasses, ^ cup of sugar, ^ cup of butter, ^ cup of warm water, the butter melted with it. A small teaspoonful of pearlash, dissolved in the water. 2 tablespoonfuls of ginger. The dough should be stiff; knead it well, and roll into sheets, cut into round cakes, and bake in a mod- erate oven. GOLDEN CAKE This and the following cake are named from gold and silver, on account of their color as well as their excellence. They should be made together, so as to use both portions of the eggs : To make Golden Cake, take 1 pound of flour, dried and sifted, 1 pound of sugar, f pound of butter. Yolks of 14 eggs. 196 The New England Cook Book The yellow part of 2 lemons grated, and the juice also. Beat the sugar and butter to a cream, and add the yolks, well beaten and strained. Then add the lemon- peel and flour, and a teaspoonful of sal volatile, dis- solved in a little hot water. Beat it well, and just before putting it into the oven, add the lemon-juice, beating it in very thoroughly. Bake in square flat pans, ice it thickly, and cut it in square pieces. It looks finely on a dish with the silver cake. SILVER CAKE 1 pound of sugar, f pound of dried and sifted flour, 6 ounces of butter, Mace and citron. The whites of 14 eggs. Beat the sugar and butter to a cream, add the whites cut to a stiff froth, and then the flour. It is a beautiful looking cake. INDIAN BANNOCK 1 quart of milk scalded, 1^ teacup of meal, 4 eggs, Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 197 1 tablespoonful sugar and a small piece of butter, ^ teaspoon ful salt. Scald the milk and pour on the Indian meal and be sure to let it cool before adding the eggs. Bake ^ hour, JENNY LIND Take 1 egg, 1 teacup of sugar, 1 of sweet milk, 9,^ of flour, a dessertspoonful of butter, 2 tea- spoonfuls of cream of tartar, 1 of saleratus, and a very little salt. To mix it, stir the cream of tartar, sugar, and salt into the flour, then the milk, add the egg without beating, dissolve the saleratus, and melt the butter in a spoonful of hot water, then stir all together a few minutes. Bake in 15 minutes in 2 pans about the size of a breakfast plate. If you prefer, make it with sour milk, and omit the cream of tartar. With the addition of one more egg, a teaspoon- ful more of butter, and ^ cup of sugar, and some spice, this is a nice cake, and may sometimes be very convenient, because so quickly made. NUNS' BEADS Grate 4 ounces of good cheese, add a little salt, the beaten yolks of 3 eggs, and some crumbs of 198 Tlie New England Cook Book bread, roll into balls as large as walnuts, cover with pufF paste, and fry them in butter a light brown color. Serve them in a napkin. NEW ENGLAND SQUASH CAKES ^ cups of milk, 1 cup of sugar, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 cups of boiled squash, 1 beaten Qgg, ^ yeast cake dissolved in ^ cup of warm water, ^ teaspoonful salt. Mix thoroughly with sufficient flour to make a soft dough; let rise 6 or 7 hours and bake in muffin tins. MAPLE CAKE ^ cup butter, 1 cup sugar, 2 eggs, ^ cup milk, Vanilla, \^ cups flour, 1 teaspoonful baking powder. Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 199 Bake in 2 layers. Boil 1 cup maple syrup till it hardens in cold water, pour slowly over the stiffly-beaten white of 1 egg. Beat till cold. NUT LOAF Soak 2 cups of stale bread cinimbs 10 minutes in enough rich milk to cover them, drain, and add 1 cupful of chopped walnut meats, 2 dozen blanched almonds and 1 tablespoonful of mixed sweet herbs, 1 teaspoonful salt, and a dash of Cayenne, and 9, eggs slightly beaten. Shape in a loaf and bake f hour in a moderate oven. Baste with equal parts of hot water and melted butter. OLD HARTFORD ELECTION CAKE (150 years old) 5 pounds of dried and sifted flour, 2 pounds of butter, 2 pounds of sugar, 3 gills of distillery yeast, or twice the quantity of home-brewed, 4 eggs, 1 gill of wine, 1 gill of brandy, J ounce of nutmegs, 200 The New England Cook Book 2 pounds of fruit, 1 quart of milk. Rub the butter very fine into the flour, add half the sugar, then the yeast, then half the milk (hot in winter and blood warm in summer), then the eggs well beaten, the wine, and the remainder of the milk. Beat it well, and let it stand to rise all night. Beat it well in the morning, adding the brandy, the sugar, and the spice. Let it rise 3 or 4 hours, till very light. Put the cake in buttered pans, and put in the fruit as directed previously. If you wish it richer, add a pound of citron. PLUM CAKE Three pounds of flour, 3 pounds of currants, f pound of almonds, blanched and beat gi'ossly, about ^ ounce of them bitter, 4 ounces of sugar, 7 yolks and 6 whites of eggs, 1 pint of cream, 2 pounds of butter, ^ pint of good ale yeast; mix the eggs and the yeast together, strain them; set the cream on the fire, melt the butter in it ; stir in the almonds, and ^ pint of sack, part of which should be put to the almonds while beating; mix together the flour, cur- rants and sugar, what nutmegs, cloves and mace are liked ; stir these to the cream ; put in the yeast. Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 201 POUND CAKE 1 pound of powdered loaf sugar, 1 pound of sifted flour, J pound of fresh butter, 8 eggs, 1 nutmeg. Rub the butter and sugar together, until very light, then add the yolks of the eggs, the spice, and part of the flour. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiffs froth, and stir in with the remainder of the flour. Mix all well together, and bake in small tins, icing the cakes when they are a little warm. SACHEM'S HEAD CORN CAKE One quart sifted Indian meal, and a teaspoonful of salt. Three pints of scalded milk cooled, and a teaspoon- ful of saleratus, dissolved in S teaspoonfuls of hot water, and put into it. Beat 8 eggs, and mix all together. Bake 1 hour in pans, like sponge cake. It looks, when broken, like sponge cake, and is very fine. If the whites are cut to a froth, and put in, just as it goes to bake, it improves it very much. 202 The New England Cook Book Some think this improved by adding a teacup of sugar. Much depends on the baking, and if you fail, it is probably owing to the baking. SALLY LUNN (1) A quart of flour, a piece of butter the size of an Qgg, S tablespoonfuls of sugar, 2 eggs, 2 teacups of milk, 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, 1 of saleratus, and a little salt. To mix it, scatter the cream of tartar, the salt, and the sugar into the flour; add the eggs without hav- ing beaten them, the butter melted, and 1 cup of the milk; dissolve the saleratus in the remaining cup, and then stir all together steadily a few minutes. Bake in 3 pans the size of a breakfast plate, 15 or 20 minutes. For a family of 4 or 5, make half the measure. Add spice, and twice the measure of sugar, and you have a good plain cake for the cake-basket. SALLY LUNN (2) Take 3 quai-ts of dried flour, ^ cupful of yeast, J pound of butter, melted in a sufficient quantity of milk to dissolve it, the yolks of 3 eggs, and a little salt; make these ingredients into a light dough, let Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 203 it stand before the fire (covered) for 1 hour to rise, and bake in a quick oven. The above may be made into small cakes. TIPSY CAKE Pour over a sponge cake, made in the form of a porcupine, as much white wine as it will absorb, and stick it all over with blanched sweet almonds, cut like straws ; or pour wine in the same manner over a thick slice of sponge cake; cover the top of it with pre- served strawberries or raspberries, and stick cut al- monds all round it. WALNUT HILL DOUGH- NUTS 1 teacup of sour cream, or milk, 2 teacups of sugar, 1 teacup of butter, 4 eggs, and 1 nutmeg, 2 teaspoonfuls of saleratus. Flour enough to roll. Cut into diamond cakes, and fry in hot lard. COFFEE FILLING Heat 1 cup of rich cream, add 1 cup of granu- lated sugar and a heaping tablespoonful of butter. 204 The New England Cook Book Cook until it threads, remove from the fire and whip in \ cup of black coffee. Let cool before using. CHOCOLATE FILLING 2 cups of brown sugar, ^ pound chocolate, 1 cup of milk, 1 tablespoonful of butter, A few drops of vanilla. Put milk, sugar and chocolate into double boiler and cook until chocolate melts, after which let cook for 30 minutes, or until it thickens. It may be nec- essary to have it boil hard for several minutes to have it thick enough. Add butter and vanilla, beat well and spread over cake. LEMON FILLING 2 eggs, 2 lemons, 2 tablespoonfuls boiling water, 1 cup sugar, 1 teaspoonful butter. Pare lemons^ add boiling water to rind, let stand 5 minutes. To beaten eggs add sugar and lemon- juice, and \ Bread, Biscuits and Cakes 205 water from rind. Cook over boiling water until as thick as honey. Add butter, and when cool spread over cake. LEMON FILLING AND MERINGUE 1 large lemon, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, ^ eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch, 1 cup of water or milk. To the beaten yolks add sugar, grated rind, juice, cornstarch and water. Cook in double boiler, stir- ring all the time until the mixture begins to thicken, after which add a little butter and set aside to cool. Should be as thick as cream. Put into pie tin which has been lined with the paste. Bake in moderately hot oven until the paste is brown and the custard firm. Cool before spreading meringue over it. For the meringue allow 1 tablespoonful powdered sugar for each white, add it slowly to the white which has been slightly beaten and beat thoroughly several minutes. Spread it over cold pie, place on shelf of oven for an instant and brown slightly. Beverages COFFEE 1 tablespoonful of coffee to every cupful of water that is boiling. To every spoonful of coffee ^ an egg shell. Pour on boiling water, set on back of stove to heat slowly to boiling point. To drive the grounds to the bottom, pour in a little cold water. TEA Allow one scant teaspoonful of tea to every cup of boiling water. Scald the teapot, put in the tea, pour over the boiling water, cover with a cozy and serve in 5 minutes, with cream and sugar or thin slices of lemon. RUSSIAN TEA 4 teaspoonfuls of tea, 4 cups of boiling water, 4 slices of lemon, 4 teaspoonfuls of rum. 206 Beverages 207 Proceed as for making tea. Serve in glasses half filled with ice into which the rum has been poured. Sweeten to taste and add lemon. TEA PUNCH Boil a cupful of water with a pound of sugar un- til it threads, add a cupful of strong tea. Let cool, then add a pint of strawberry juice, the juice of 6 lemons and 4 oranges, and a can of shredded pine- apple. Let the mixture stand half a day, then add a cupful of maraschino cherries, or fresh strawber- ries when in season, 2 sliced bananas, a quart of charged water and a quart of champagne. Serve with ice. COCOA 1 cupful of boiling water, 1 cupful of milk, 2 teaspoonfuls of cocoa, 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar. After mixing cocoa and sugar, add the water slowly, mixing to a smooth paste. Let boil for sev- eral minutes, after which add the milk, which has been scalded; serve at once with or without whipped cream. Chocolate may be made in the same manner and 208 The New England Cook Book is often flavored with a few drops of vanilla. For chocolate allow 1 ounce for every pint. GRAPE NECTAR Take the juice of 2 lemons and 1 orange, 1 pint of grape juice, 1 small cup of sugar, and 1 pint of water. Serve ice cold. If served from punch bowl, sliced lemon and orange add to the appearance. GRAPE PUNCH Boil together 1 pound of sugar and ^ pii^t ^^ water until it spins a thread; take from the fire and when cool add the juice of 6 lemons and a quart of grape juice. Stand aside overnight. Serve with plain water, apollinaris, or soda water. OLD MEDFORD PUNCH 1 quart of Old Medford rum., ^ pint of brandy^ J pint of claret, 1 cup of strong tea. Sweeten to taste and add S sliced oranges, 1 sliced pineapple. Let stand 24 hours. Chill, and just be- fore serving, add 2 quarts of champagne. Beverages 209 RASPBERRY VINEGAR To 2 quarts of raspberries, put a pint of cider vinegar. Let them lie together 2 or 3 days; then mash them up and put them in a bag to strain. To every pint, when strained, put a pound of best sugar. Boil it SO minutes, and skim it. Bottle when cold. WEBSTER'S PUNCH Two dozen lemons, strained; 2 pounds of sugar, ^ pint green tea, strained; 1 quart best brandy, 3 quarts claret ; bottle and keep over night. Then add champagne to suit the taste, strawberries, ba- nanas, oranges, cherries, pineapples, and any fruit desired. Serve in punch bowl with ice. FLIP To make a quart of flip : — Put the ale on the fire to warm, and beat up 3 or 4 eggs, with 4 ounces of moist sugar, a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg or ginger, and a quartern of good old rum or brandy. When the ale nearly boils put it into 1 pitcher, and the rum, eggs, etc.,, into another; turn it from one to another till it is as smooth as cream. This is called a Yard of Flannel, 210 The New England Cook Book SYLLABUBS Take the juice of a large lemon, the peel (pared very thin), a glass of brandy, 2 of white wine, and ^ pound of powdered sugar ; put these ingredients into a pan and leave them ; the next day add a pint of thick cream, and the whites of 2 eggs; whip the whole well, and pour the syllabub into glasses. They are the better for keeping a day or two. If the syllabubs are not wanted quite so good as the above, raisin or mountain wine will do as well as brandy. COMMON SYLLABUB Half a pint of currant, the same of Port or white wine, half a grated nutmeg, and the peel of a lemon ; sweeten well with pounded loaf or good brown sugar, and mix it together in a china bowl, and when the sugar dissolves, pour upon it 3 or 4 pints of milk. Serve it when cold. SYLLABUB, WHIPT (1) Mix together ^ glass of brandy, a little lemon- juice, and grated peel, with sugar enough to sweeten the whole; stir it into a pint of thick cream, and add the well-beaten whites of 6 eggs ; whisk it for 1 Beverages 211 hour, and put the froth, as it rises, upon a sieve to drain; put a Httle Port and sweet wine into glasses, and fill them up with the froth. SYLLABUB, WHIPT (2) Mix with a pint of cream, ^ pint of sweet wine, 1 glass of brandy, the juice of a lemon, grated nut- meg, 6 ounces of sifted loaf sugar. Nearly fill the custard glasses with the mixture, and lay on with a spoon some of the whip. SYLLABUB, STAFFORD- SHIRE Put a pint of cider, a glass of brandy, sugar, and nutmeg into a bowl; pour warm milk from a large teapot some height into it. SOMERSETSHIRE SYLLABUB Put a pint of Port, and a pint of sherry, or any other white wine, into a large bowl, sweeten it accord- ing to taste ; fill the bowl with milk ; in about 20 min- utes' time, cover it tolerably high with clouted cream ; grate nutmeg over it; add grated cinnamon. 212 The New England Cook Book BEEF TEA Cut a piece of lean, juicy beef into pieces 1 inch square, put them into a wide-mouthed bottle and cork it tight. Set the bottle into a kettle of cold water and boil it 1 J hours. This mode of making beef tea concentrates the nourishment more than any other. BRUISS Take crusts of brown bread, and if they are dry and hard, lay them over night in a little water. In the morning add milk and boil them slowly. Take care they do not burn. Sprinkle in salt, and just before you take them up, add a little butter. If there is too much milk, take off the lid the latter part of the time. Take up the pieces as whole as you can. Crusts of white bread make a good breakfast dish, in the same way, except that they do not need soak- ing over night. Pickles ARTICHOKES Gather young artichokes as soon as formed ; throw them into boihng brine, and let them boil 2 minutes ; drain them ; when cold and dry, put them in jars, and cover with vinegar, adding ginger, mace and nut- meg. TO KEEP ARTICHOKES IN PICKLE Throw your artichokes in salt and water ^ day. Then put your artichokes in boiling water and let boil until you can just draw off the bottom leaves. Cut off the bottom smooth and clean, put them into a jar with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, 2 bay leaves, and as much vinegar as will cover them. Cover with melted butter ^ 1 inch thick. Tie up close and use them as you have occasion. TO PICKLE ASPARAGUS (1) Take the longest asparagus, cut off the white ends. Lay evenly in a pot, throw over whole cloves, mace, 213 214 The New England Cook Booh and a little salt, put over enough white wine vinegar to well cover them. Let them lie in this cold pickle 9 days, then pour the pickle out in a preserving kettle, and let it boil until they are very green but not soft. When done put in jars and seal. TO PICKLE ASPARAGUS (2) Gather your asparagus and lay in an earthen pot, make a strong brine of water and salt, pour it over them hot, and keep the pot closely covered. When you wish to serve them for the table, soak in cold water for 2 hours, boil and butter them in the usual manner. If 3^ou use them as a pickle, boil and lay them in vinegar. TO PICKLE BARBERRIES (1) Take equal quantities of water and the best vine- gar, and to every pint add a pound of sugar, a few barberries and some salt. Boil this ^ hour. Pour this boiling hot over the barberries, seal in glass jars. TO PICKLE BARBERRIES (2) Get your barberries before they are too ripe; pick out the leaves and dead stalks, put them in jars and Pickles 215 cover with a strong brine, and seal. Should a scum arise put them into fresh brine ; they need no vinegar for their own sharpness is sufficient to keep them. TO PICKLE FRENCH BEANS Take young tender beans ; cut off the top and tail ; make a brine of cold water and salt, strong enough to bear an egg, put the beans into that brine and let them stand 4 days. Drain, add fresh cold water to them and let them boil until tender. Drain. To a peck of beans allow a gallon of the best vinegar, boiled with cloves, mace, whole pepper, and sliced gin- ger. Pour this boiling hot on the beans and seal. TO PICKLE KIDNEY BEANS Get your beans when they are young and small, then put them into a strong brine of salt and water for three days. Stir them up 2 or 3 times each day, then put them into a brass pan, with vine leaves over and under them, pour on the same water as they came out of, cover them close and set them over a very slow fire till they are a fine green, then put them in a hair-sieve to drain. Make a pickle of white wine vinegar, boil it 5 or 6 minutes, with a little mace, Jamaica pepper, long 216 The New England Cook Book pepper, and a piece or two of ginger sliced, then pour it hot upon the kidney beans and seal. BEET ROOTS Boil or bake gently until they are nearly done; drain them and when they begin to cool, peel and slice ^ inch thick, then put them in a pickle com- posed of black pepper and allspice of each 1 ounce, ginger pounded, horseradish sliced, and salt, of each ^ ounce to every quart of vinegar steeped. TO PICKLE BROOM BUDS Put the little broom buds into little linen bags — make a pickle of salt and water, strong enough to bear an Q^g. Put your bags in a pot, cover with brine and let them, closely covered, lie until they turn black. Change the brine 2 or 3 times until they change green. Take them out and boil them as you have occasion to use them. When boiled remove from the bags and in vinegar they will keep a month after this. PICKLED CABBAGE Shred red and white cabbage, spread it in layers in a jar, strew on a handful of salt to each layer; at night of the third day, put it in a colander to drain. Pickles 2ir The next morning, scald the vinegar with whole spices in it sufficient to cover it. If you wish to keep it several monthsj after 2 weeks drain and pour over fresh vinegar. TO PICKLE RED CABBAGE Cut a close-leaved red cabbage in quarters. Boil the cabbage and then pickle in white wine vinegar and claret; add beets and turnips that have been boiled. RED CABBAGE Choose fine, firm cabbages; the largest are not the best ; trim off the outside leaves, quarter the cabbage, take out the large stalk, slice the quarters into a colander, and sprinkle a little salt between the lay- ers; put but a little salt, as too much will spoil the color. Let it remain in the colander until the next day, shake it well that all the brine may run off, put it in jars, cover it up in hot pickle, composed of black pepper and allspice of each an ounce, ginger pounded, horseradish sliced, and salt of each 1 ounce to every quart of vinegar and 1 drachm of Cayenne. 218 The New England Cook Book OLD-FASHIONED RECIPE FOR CATSUP (1) Boil 1 gallon of ripe tomatoes and put them through a colander; then boil again, adding 6 table- spoonfuls of salt or enough to taste. Dissolve S tablespoonfuls of mustard and 1 tablespoonful each of black pepper, ^ each of Cayenne pepper, allspice and cloves in 1 pint of vinegar. Pour this into the boiling tomatoes and stir constantly until thick enough; then bottle for use. If bottles are sealed it will keep for years. OLD-FASHIONED RECIPE FOR CATSUP (2) Scald ripe tomatoes, and remove the skin. Let them stand a day, covered with salt ; strain thor- oughly to remove the seeds. To every 2 quarts of the liquor add 3 ounces of cloves, 2 of black pepper, 2 grated nutmegs, a little Cayenne pepper, and salt. Boil all together for ^ hour, then let the mixture cool and settle ; add a pint of the best cider vinegar ; bottle, cork tightly, and seal. Keep in a cool place. Pickles 219 OLD-FASHIONED RECIPE FOR CATSUP (3) One bushel tomatoes, boiled, strained through a colander and sieve, 1 cup of salt, 2 teaspoonfuls each of mustard, mace, allspice, cloves, 4 teaspoonfuls of white pepper, 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon, 2 cups of granulated sugar, 2 quarts of vinegar. Cook over night, or until thick. CAULIFLOWERS Choose firm, full-sized cauliflowers, cut away all the leaves and pare the stalk, pull awa}^ the flowers by bunches, steep in brine two days, then drain them, wipe dry and put them into hot pickle — or merely infuse for 3 days S ounces of curry powder in every quart of vinegar. SALTED CHERRIES Select large, perfect fruit and remove the stems. Fill a 1-quart jar with cherries, half cover them with cold water, then pour enough vinegar in the jar to fill; lastly add a teaspoonful of salt. Seal. While these cherries are easily prepared, they are delicious and can be used as a substitute for olives. 220 The New England Cook Book CHILI SAUCE Eighteen ripe tomatoes, 6 onions, 3 green peppers, 1 cup sugar, 2^ cups vinegar, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, 1 teaspoonful each of cinnamon, allspice, and nut- meg, and i teaspoonful of cloves. Scald and peel tomatoes, and cook with onions and peppers until tender; then add sugar, vinegar and spices, and cook 10 minutes. CHOW-CHOW 1 large head red cabbage, 1 large cauliflower, 2 quarts small string beans, 2 quarts green tomatoes, ^ quarts cucumbers, 2 quarts silver skin onions. Cut cabbage into quarters and remove the core, then shave very thin slices, break the cauliflower into flowerets, but leave all the others whole. Mix all to- gether and add 1 pint of fine salt. Let them stand over night. In the morning rinse well in cold water and drain. Then add 1 ounce of white mustard seed, 1 ounce of celery seed, and 1 small box of ground mustard. Cover well with vin- egar and boil 20 minutes. While cooling mix J pound of granulated sugar and 1 tablespoon ful of turmeric, and stir thoroughly into the pickles. Pickles 221 CHUTNEY LEAVES 12 green sour apples, 2 green peppers, 6 green tomatoes, 4 small onions, 1 cup of raisins, 1 quart of vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of mustard seed, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 1 tablespoonful of powdered sugar, 2 cups of brown sugar. Remove the seeds from the raisins and peppers, then add the tomatoes and onions, and chop all very fine. Put the vinegar, sugar and spices on to boil, add the chopped mixture and simmer 1 hour. Then add apples, pared and cored, and oook slowly until soft. Keep in small bottles well sealed. CHUTNEY SAUCE Pare and core sour apples. Then take of these apples, tomatoes, brown sugar, and best raisins, each 8 ounces; salt, 4 ounces; red peppers (chillies), and powdered ginger, 2 ounces each; garlic and small onions, 1 ounce each. Pound the whole well, and add 3 quarts of best cider or wine vinegar — or vinegar made from beer — and 1 quart of lemon- juice. Let it stand in the vessel a month, but give it a good 222 Tlie New England Cook Book shake daily. Then pour off the clear liquid and bot- tle it. The residue may be used in aid of a second batch of sauce, or, rubbed up into a very smooth paste, may form a constituent of French mustard. TO PICKLE CODLINS Get your codlins (small green apples) when they are the size of walnuts, put a good many vine leaves in the bottom of a pan, then put in your codlins, cover them well with vine leaves and set on a slow fire till you can peel the skins off, then take them carefully up in a hair-sieve, and peel them with a penknife, and put them into the same pan with the vine leaves and water as before, cover close and set them over a slow fire till they are a fine green, then drain them through a hair-sieve, and when they are cold put them into distilled vinegar, and seal air- tight. COLD PICKLES Season some of the best vinegar with a little garlic, a little tarragon and a little sweet oil. Put it into a glass jar and keep well covered. You may throw into it green seeds and nasturtiums, morello cherries, little onions, small young carrots when but a finger long, radish pods, and various other things. Keep the jar well covered and the pickles will keep as long and as well as if it had been boiled. Pickles 223 CORNICHONS Take 10 pounds of very small cucumbers. Brush them all over to clean them well and cut off the stems. Put them into an earthen pan with 2 handfuls of salt. Let them rest 24 hours and then drain them. When they are well drained, return to the pan and cover with boiling hot white wine vinegar. Then cover the pan with a lid or dish and let the cucum- bers set in the vinegar 24 hours. They will then be yellow. Pour the vinegar from them and cover with vine leaves. Boil the vinegar again; when it boils throw it over the cucumbers, stirring them well. When the vinegar is cold, pour it from the cu- cumbers, boil it again. Then pour it over them and repeat this 4 or 5 times until they are a fine green. Keep them in the interval always covered with a layer of vine leaves, fresh each time, and also by a cloth kept down by a large dish. This, by keep- ing in the steam, will assist them in greening; then drain and put them in glass jars. Boil some fresh white wine vinegar, to every quart of which allow ^ ounce of mace, ^ ounce of sliced ginger, ^ ounce of whole black pepper, 6 cloves, a few sprigs of tarragon and ^ clove of garlic. Pour this boiling hot over the pickles and seal the jars. 224 The New England CooJc Book TO MANGO CUCUMBERS Cut a little slit out of the side of the cucumber, and take out the seeds, then fill the space with bruised mustard seed, a bit of garlic, some slices of ginger, and some bits of horseradish; tie the piece in again and make a pickle of vinegar, salt, whole pepper, cloves and mace. Boil this and pour it on the mangoes — and repeat this each day for 9 days. When cold cover air tight. TO PICKLE CUCUMBERS Wipe your cucumbers very clean. Allow a quart of vinegar to every 100 cucumbers; put in dill and fennel that has been cut small. Let the vinegar and herbs come to a boil, put in the cucumbers and let them warm through. Remove from the fire and keep close covered until next day. Then do the same. On the third day season the liquor before you set it on the fire with salt, sliced ginger, whole pepper and whole mace. When this comes to a boil put in the cucumbers; let the whole boil up; put in jars and seal. TO PICKLE CUCUMBERS IN SLICES Cut the cucumbers in thick slices, and to 1 dozen cucumbers allow 2 or 3 good onions. Strew on them Pickles 225 a good handful of salt and let them lie in their liquor 24 hours. Then drain them ; then boil the best white wine vinegar, and some cloves^ mace, and Jamaica pepper and pour it scalding hot over them. Cover air tight and keep them for use. SPICED CURRANTS (1) 4 pounds of currants, 4 pounds of sugar, 1 pint of vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of cinnamon. Boil together until quite thick, say 2 or 3 hours. SPICED CURRANTS (2) To every pound of currants allow 1 pound of sugar. Make a syrup in the proportion of 4 pounds of sugar to 1 pint of vinegar, 2 teaspoonfuls of cin- namon, 2 teaspoonfuls of allspice, 1 teaspoonful of cloves, ^ teaspoonful of mace, ^ teaspoonful of salt. When boiling add currants and boil 20 minutes. Put into tumblers ; stand aside to get cold ; then cover. 226 The New England Cook Book SPICED CURRANTS (3) 5 pounds of currants, 4 pounds of brown sugar, 5 tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, 1 tablespoonful of cloves, 1 pint of vinegar. Boil 3 hours. Put in small jars and cover the same as jelly. DILL PICKLES Take small-sized pickles, wash, and allow them to stand over night in cold water. In the morning drain and pack in a crock with dill between them. Boil a brine of ^ tablespoonfuls of salt to 1 quart of water. Allow this to get cold, then pour it to overflowing over the pickles. Be sure the pickles are kept well under the brine. DUTCH PICKLE Slice 1 peck of green tomatoes and 6 large onions. Mix in thoroughly 1 teacupful of salt and let stand over night. In the morning drain, add 2 quarts of water and 1 quart of vinegar and boil 20 minutes. Drain again and throw away liquid. Then add 3 quarts of vinegar, 2 pounds of sugar, 2 tablespoon- Pickles 227 fuls each of cloves, cinnamon, ginger, allspice and mustard, and 12 green peppers chopped fine. Boil from 1 to 2 hours. Add curry powder to taste and seal in jars. TO PICKLE ELDER BUDS Get your elder buds when they are the size of hop buds, and put them in strong salt and water for 9 days and stir them 3 times a day. Then put them into a pan, cover them with vine leaves, and pour the water on them they came out of, and set them over a slow fire until they are quite green. Make a pickle for them of vinegar, a little mace, a few shallots, and some sliced ginger, boil this 2 or 3 minutes and pour it upon the buds — tie down and keep in a dry place for use. ENGLISH SALAD PICKLE Peel and slice 6 good-sized cucumbers and 3 onions. Cover with ^ cupful of salt and let stand well pressed down over night. In the morning throw away the liquor and add | ounce of mustard seed, 2 teaspoonfuls of celery seed, 5 ounces of salad oil, and 1 pint of cold vinegar. This makes a delicious pickle ready to eat in 48 hours, though the longer it is kept in air-tight jars the better it becomes. 228 The New England Cook Book FRENCH PICKLE Slice 1 peck of green tomatoes and 6 large onions. Let them stand over night in salt. Drain them well and cook in 1 quart of vinegar and 2 quarts of water for 15 or 20 minutes. Drain again. Add 2 quarts of vinegar, 2 pounds of brown sugar, -| pound mustard seed, 1 tablespoonful of cloves, 1 of ground mustard, 1 of cinnamon, 1 of allspice, 1 of ginger, 1 teaspoonful red pepper. Boil 15 minutes. GARLIC AND ESCHALOTS Garlic and eschalots may be pickled in the same way as onions. GHERKINS OR YOUNG CUCUMBERS Gherkins or young cucumbers should be the size of a finger; smaller ones have not attained their flavor and larger ones are apt to be seedy. Put them in unglazed stone jars; cover them with brine composed of ^ pound of salt dissolved in 1 quart of boiling water, and left to become cold. Cover the jars and put them on the hearth before the fire for 2 or 3 days, till they become yellow, then pour off the brine, drain the cucumbers, scald and dry Pickles 229 the jars, return the cucumbers and cover them with the best white wine vinegar; set them again before the fire and let them remain until they become green, which will be in 8 or 10 days, then pour off the vinegar and put to them the following pickle: To each quart of vinegar allow S ounces of black pepper, 1 ounce of ginger, 1 ounce of salt, ^ drachm of Cayenne, and 1 ounce of mustard seed. This pickle should have been allowed to stand near the fire for 2 or 3 days before needed. The vinegar in which the cucumbers were greened should be bottled. It will make good sauce for cold meats or salad. SPICED GRAPES (1) Eight pounds of grapes, mashed and cooked enough to strain out the seeds and skins. Put all the pulp through a sieve, add 4* pounds of sugar, and 1 tablespoonful each of cinnamon and allspice, and 2 teaspoonfuls of cloves. Simmer 3 hours. SPICED GRAPES (2) Four pounds ripe grapes. Mash until all are broken; add 12 whole cloves, 12 allspice, 1 inch square of stick cinnamon, and half as much ginger. Cook until the grapes are perfectly soft, then rub 230 The New England Cook Book through a sieve, add 1 pint of vinegar, and sugar to taste. Put on to boil again and simmer until thick. SPICED GRAPES (3) Cook 12 pounds of ripe grapes until the skins burst. Remove from the fire and press through a fine sieve. Pick out as many of the skins as possi- ble and cook these with 1^ cupfuls of vinegar. Take the pulp and put it in the preserving kettle, adding 7 pounds of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of cloves, and 2 teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, add boiled skins. Let this boil gently for ^ hour. GREEN TOMATO PICKLES 2 gallons of sliced tomatoes, 12 good-sized onions, 2 quarts of vinegar, 1 quart of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of ground mustard, 2 tablespoonfuls of black pepper, 1 tablespoonful of allspice, 1 tablespoonful of cloves, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt. Put in layers of tomatoes, onions, and mixed spices and pour the vinegar over them. Pickles 231 GREEN TOMATO SOY 2 gallons green tomatoes, sliced without peeling, 12 onions, also sliced, 2 quarts vinegar, 1 quart sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls salt, 2 tablespoonfuls mustard, 2 tablespoonfuls black pepper, 1 tablespoonful celery seed, 1 tablespoonful allspice, 1 tablespoonful cloves, 1 tablespoonful cinnamon, I teaspoonful Cayenne. Mix all together and cook until tender, stirring often to prevent scorching. Put up in small glass jars. A PICKLE IN IMITATION OF INDIAN BAMBOL Take the young shoots of elder about the begin- ning or middle of May ; take the middle of the stalk, the top is not worth doing; peel off the rind and lay them in a strong brine of salt and brine 1 night; drain and dry in a cloth. Make a pickle of half vinegar and half ale ; to every quart of pickle put 1 232 The New England Cook Book ounce of long pepper, 1 ounce of sliced ginger, a few peppercorns, a little mace; boil it and put it hot over the shoots. Set the jar on the back of the stove and let it stand 2 hours, stirring very often. INDIAN PICKLE The vegetables for this favorite pickle are small hard knots of white cabbage sliced, cauliflowers in flakes, long carrots not larger than a finger, or large carrots sliced, gherkins, French beans, small bottom onions, white turnips, radishes, half-grown, radish pods, eschalots, young hard apples, green peaches when the trees are thinned before the stones are formed, vegetable marrow, not larger than a hen's Ggg, small green melons, celery, shoots of green el- der, horseradish, nasturtiums, capsicums, and garlic. As all the vegetables do not come in season to- gether, the best method of doing this is to prepare a large jar of pickle at such time of the year as most of the things may be obtained and the others as they come in season. Thus the pickle will be nearly a year in making, and ought to stand another year before using, when, if properly managed, it will be excellent, but will keep and continue to improve for years. For preparing the several vegetables, the same di- rections may be observed as for pickling them sep- arately, only boiling is to be avoided, and soaking in Pickles 233 brine to be preferred; be very particular that every ingredient is perfectly dry before putting into the jar, and that the jar is very closely tied down every time that it is opened for the addition of fresh vege- tables. Neither mushrooms, walnuts, or red cabbage are to be admitted. For the pickle : To every gallon of the best white wine vinegar add salt, 3 ounces ; flour of mustard, ^ pound ; turmeric, S ounces ; white ginger sliced, 3 ounces ; cloves, 1 ounce ; mace, black pepper, long pep- per, white pepper, ^ ounce each ; Cayenne, 2 drachms ; eschalots peeled, 4 ounces ; garlic peeled, 2 ounces ; steep the spice in vinegar on the back of the stove 2 days. The mustard and turmeric must be rubbed smooth with a little cold vinegar, and stirred into the rest when as near boiling as possible. Such vegetables as are ready must be put in; when Cayenne, nas- turtiums or any of the other vegetables come in sea- son, put them in the pickle as they are; any need- ing to be partially cooked first may be allowed to stand in fresh vinegar without spice, and when cold added to the general jar. Onions had better not be wet at all, but if it is desired not to have the full flavor, both onions, eschalots, and garlic may be sprinkled with salt in a colander to draw off all the strong juice; let them lie 2 or 3 hours. The elder, apples, peaches, and so forth to be 234 The New England Cook Book greened as gherkins. The roots: radishes, carrots, celery, are only soaked in brine and dried. Half a pint of salad oil, or mustard oil, is sometimes added. It should be rubbed with the flour of mustard and turmeric. It is not essential to Indian pickle to have every variety of vegetable here mentioned ; but all these are admissible, and the greater the variety the more it is approved. INDIAN RELISH Take a medium-sized cabbage and chop it fine, 16 green tomatoes, 6 large green peppers, 3 large white oninos. Chop all the vegetables very fine, place in a bowl, sprinkle liberally with salt and let stand over night. The next day drain, and have ready in a saucepan, 3 pints of vinegar, 1 cup of sugar, a few cloves, 1 teaspoonful extract of cinnamon, and 2 tablespoon- fuls of mustard seed, 2 tablespoonfuls of celery seed, tied in a cloth, and let this boil slowly ^ hour. Re- move from fire, and when cold pour this over the pickles, having removed the celery seed. Pickles 235 TO MAKE ENGLISH CATSUP Take a wide-mouthed bottle, put in a pint of the best vinegar, 10 or 12 cloves of eschalot peeled and bruised, then take J pint of the best white wine, boil it a little and put to it 12 or 14 anchovies washed and shredded, and dissolve them in the wine. When cold put them in the bottle, then boil J pint more of the wine with some mace, sliced ginger, a few cloves and a teaspoonful of whole peppers ; when almost cold slice in a small nutmeg, add some lemon-peel, and 2 teaspoonfuls of horseradish; add this to the other ingredients, seal the bottle, and for a week shake it once or twice a day. TO PICKLE LEMONS Take 12 lemons, scrape them well — then cut down into 4 parts, but not quite through, so that they hang together. Cover with salt and let them stand for 3 days. Then slice an ounce of ginger, add 12 cloves of garlic parboiled and salted 3 days, a small handful of bruised mustard seed, some In- dian red pepper, 1 to every lemon ; take your lemons out of the salt and squeeze them gently, and put them into a jar with the spice. Cover with the best white wine vinegar and seal, and in a month's time they will be ready to eat. 236 TJie New England Cook Book TO PICKLE LOBSTERS Boil jour lobsters in salt and water, till they will easily slip out of the shell, take the tails out whole, just crack the claws, and take out the meat as whole as possible. Then make a pickle of half white wine and half water, put in whole cloves, whole pepper, whole mace, 2 or 3 bay leaves ; then put in the lob- sters, let them come to a good boil in the pickle, re- move them to cool, boil the pickle longer, and when both are cold, put them together, keep them for use, keeping the pot close covered. Serve with oil, vinegar, and lemon. TO PICKLE MANGOES Take the largest cucumbers you can get before they are too ripe or yellow at the ends, then cut a piece out of the side, and take out the seeds with an apple scraper, or teaspoon, and put them in a very strong salt and water for 8 or 9 days, or until they are yellow, stir them well 2 or 3 times each day ; then put them into a pan with a large quantity of vine leaves both under and over them, beat a little roach alum very fine, and put it in the salt and water that the}'- came out of, pour it upon your cucumbers, and set it upon a slow fire, for 4 or 5 hours, till they are pretty green, then take them out and drain them Pickles 237 on a hair-sieve; when they are cold put to them a little horseradish, then mustard seed, 2 or 3 heads of garlic, a few peppercorns, slice a few green cu- cumbers in small pieces, then horseradish and the same as before mentioned till you have them filled; then take the piece you cut out and sew it on with a large needle and thread, and do all the rest the same way. Have ready a pickle: to every gallon of vinegar put 1 ounce of mace, the same of cloves, 2 ounces of ginger sliced, the same of long pepper, black pepper, Jamaica pepper, 3 ounces of mustard seed tied up in a bag, 4 ounces of garlic, and a stick of horseradish, cut in slices, boil them 5 minutes in the vinegar, then pour it on your pickles, tie them down and keep them for use. TO MAKE MELON MANGOE S Take small melons not quite ripe, cut a slit down the sides and remove the seeds. Beat mustard seed with shredded garlic, fill the mangoes with this mix- ture and replace the small pieces you cut out. Tie them up and put them in your pickle jar. Boil enough vinegar to cover them with whole pepper, some salt, and Jamaica pepper, and pour this scald- ing hot over the mangoes, covering them close to keep in the steam. Repeat this every day for 9 days; then seal. 238 The New England Cook Book MELONS, MANGOES, AND LONG CUCUMBERS Melons should not be much more than half grown ; cucumbers full grown but not overgrown. Cut off the top, leave it hanging by a bit of rind, which is to serve as a hinge to a box lid; with a narrow spoon scoop out all the seeds, and fill the fruit with equal parts of mustard seed, ground pepper, and 2 or 3 cloves of garlic. The lid which encloses the spice may be sewed down or tied. The pickle may be prepared with the spices di- rected for cucumbers, or with the following: To each quart of vinegar, put salt, ground mus- tard, curry powder, bruised ginger, of each ^ ounce, and 1 drachm of Cayenne pepper, all rubbed to- gether with a large glassful of salad oil; add 2 ounces of eschalots, ^ ounce of sliced garlic, steep the spice in the vinegar, and put vegetables into it hot. SWEET PICKLED MELONS Select cantaloupes, or musk melons, not quite ripe. Cut into oblong pieces, and remove rind and soft part near the seeds. Prepare the spiced pickle in the following propor- Pickles 239 tions: To every 8 pounds of melon, take 1 pint of vinegar and S pounds of sugar. Mix ^ teaspoonful each of ground mace, and cloves, 1 teaspoonful each of ginger, allspice and cinnamon. Tie this in cloth and boil it with the vinegar. Cook melon carefully in hot syrup until tender, then skim out into a large bowl. Repeat 3 or 4 times, last time heat all together; put in jars and seal hot. MUSHROOMS Choose small white mushrooms ; they should be of one night's growth. Cut off the roots, and rub the mushrooms clean with a bit of flannel and salt. Put them in a jar, allowing to every quart of mush- rooms 1 ounce each of salt and ginger, ^ ounce of whole pepper, 8 blades of mace, a bay leaf, a strip of lemon-rind, and a wineglassful of sherry. Cover the jar close and let it stand on the stove so as to be thoroughly heated and on the point of boiling; so let it remain a day or two till the liquor is ab- sorbed by the mushrooms and spices ; then cover them with hot vinegar, close them again and stand till it just comes to a boil, then remove from the fire. When they are quite cold divide the mushrooms and spice into wide-mouthed bottles, filll them up with boiling vinegar. Be sure the vinegar covers the mushrooms. Seal air tight. 240 The New England Cook Book TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS Gather the buttons, peel them in water, wash and drain. Put them in a saucepan, then add a good quantity of salt, some whole peppers, cloves, mace, and nutmegs ; let them boil in their own liquor for J hour over a brisk fire. Remove from the fire and drain, and put mushrooms in jars. Add to the liquor and spice an equal quantity of white wine and vine- gar; add a few bay leaves; let this boil a few min- utes. Pour it over the mushrooms and seal at once. MUSHROOM CATSUP Gather mushrooms in dry weather; take the large, fully-grown flaps, and see that they are free from in- sects and earth. Add to each peck of mushrooms ^ pound of salt ; break them up into a large earthen- ware pan, strew the salt over them, and let them stand for S days, stirring and mashing them up each day; then strain out all the juice. To every quart of juice put ^ ounce of whole black pepper, -J ounce of bruised ginger, ^ ounce of allspice, J ounce of Cayenne, and the same quantity of pounded mace. Put all the spices with the juice into a large earth- enware jar (standing in a pot of water), and boil for three hours; or the catsup may be boiled in a preserving pan. Let the spices remain in it when bottled. Pickles 241 MUSTARD PICKLE Chop together equal quantities of cauliflower, white onions, green peppers and green tomatoes. Pour over them scalding brine. Let stand over night ; then drain. Bring to a boil f gallon of vinegar, 1 cup of sugar, and 2 tablespoonfuls butter; add 1 cup flour, 6 tablespoonfuls ground mustard and ^ ounce turmeric powder wet in cold vinegar, and pour it all scalding hot over pickle. TO PICKLE NASTURTIUMS Gather the nasturtium berries soon after the blos- soms are gone, put them in cold salt and water, change the water once a day for 3 days. Make your pickle of white wine vinegar, mace, nutmeg, sliced peppercorns, salt, shallots, horseradish; it requires to be made pretty strong, as your pickle is not to be boiled. When you have drained them, put them into a jar, and pour the pickle over them. TO PICKLE NASTURTIUM BUDS Gather your little knobs quickly after your blos- soms are off*; put them in cold water and salt for 3 days, shifting them once a day. Then make a cold 242 The New England Cook Book pickle of white wine, some white wine vinegar, escha- lot, horseradish, pepper, salt, cloves, and whole mace, and quartered nutmeg; then put in jour seeds and cork air tight. They are to be eaten as capers. PICKLED NUTS (BUTTER- NUTS AND WALNUTS) Gather them early in the summer on a hot, clear day, when they are tender enough to pierce easily with a pin. The large walnuts or shagbarks, which have a thick outer rind are the best for pickling. Lay them in strong salt and water, J cup of salt to a cup of water, for several days, or until tender. Change the water every other day. Take them out, and rub them with a coarse towel; then put them where the sun will shine on them until they are black. Shake them occasionally, so they will be uni- formly colored. If you do not care for the dark color, you may put them at once from the brine into cold water for ^ day. When ready to pickle them wipe the nuts dry, and fill the jars f full. Take a little more than vinegar enough to fill the jars, and to every quart allow 5 cup of brown sugar, 12 cloves, 12 peppercorns, 12 allspice berries, 12 cassia buds, and 1 square inch stick cinnamon. Boil the spices in the vinegar 10 minutes, then strain, and pour it boiling hot over tlie nuts. Re- Pickles 243 peat this 2 times and after the last time cover closely or seal; put away in cool, dry place. They should stand about a month before using. ONIONS Onions should be chosen about the size of marbles. Prepare a hot brine and put them into it; let them remain 2 days. Then drain them and when quite dry, put them into clean, dry jars, and cover with hot pickle, in every quart of which has been steeped 1 ounce each of horseradish sliced, black pepper, allspice and salt — with or without mustard seed. In all pickles the vinegar should always be 2 inches or more above the vegetables, as it is sure to evaporate and if the vegetables are not thoroughly immersed in the vinegar they will not keep. TO PICKLE SMALL ONIONS Take young white onions, as big as the tip of your finger, lay them in water and salt 2 days. Drain, and cover with boiling vinegar that has been spiced according to your taste. Seal. TO PICKLE OYSTERS Wash your oysters in their own liquor, removing with the fingers all bits of gravel or shell that may 244 The New Ens:land Cook Book adhere to them. Strain some fresh liquor and add an equal quantity of water, set this on the fire and as it boils skim it clean. Then add some whole pep- pers, some blades of mace, and the oysters, stirring them until the edges curl. Then take them off, put them in glass jars, pour the boiling liquor over them and seal at once. When you serve them, add white wine or vinegar to them. TO PICKLE PARSLEY GREEN Take a large quantity of salt and water, make a brine sufficiently strong of salt to bear an egg. Put in your parsley, let it stand a week and then drain ; make a fresh brine, let it stand another week, then drain it thoroughly, put it in fresh water, and change it every day for 3 days. Then scald it until it be- comes green, take it out and drain it quite dry. Boil a quart of distilled vinegar a few minutes with 2 or 3 blades of mace, a sliced nutmeg, and 1 or 2 shallots. When it is quite cold, pour it on your pars- ley, with 2 or 3 slices of horseradish, and keep it for use. PICKLED PEACHES 7 pounds of peaches pared, 3J pounds of sugar. Pickles 245 1 quart best vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful of cloves. Scald 1 pint of vinegar and the sugar, and pour over them. SWEET PICKLED PLUMS OR PEACHES If peaches are used wipe them well to remove the fur. Plums should be pricked in several places, to keep them from cracking. 8 pounds fruit, 4 pounds of sugar, 1 quart vinegar, 2 ounces of whole cloves, 2 ounces of stick cinnamon, ^ ounce of ginger root. Boil vinegar, sugar and spices together 10 min- utes, add peaches and just let them stand 1 or 2 min- utes, being careful not to have them boil or become soft. Then pour in stone jar and in a week pour off the vinegar and scald again. 246 TJie New England Cook Book PICKLED PEARS 7 pounds of pears, 4 pounds of sugar, 2 ounces of cinnamon, 2 ounces of cloves, 2 ounces of mace, to 1 pint of vinegar. Pound the spice and put in bag ; prick fruit before boiling and boil until tender, then put in the jar; boil vinegar and spices and pour on. SWEET PICKLED PEARS Ten pounds Bartlett pears, not quite ripe; wipe them, remove the blossom end; cook in boiling water until tender. Remove the fruit and strain the water, take 1 quart of this water, add to it 1 quart of vinegar, 5 pounds sugar, and ^ cup of mixed whole cloves, allspice, mace and stick cinnamon. Boil -J hour, then add pears and when well scalded remove them and pack in jars. Boil syrup down un- til there is enough to cover the fruit and seal at once. Pickles 247 PEPPER RELISH 1 dozen green peppers, 1 dozen red peppers, 14 medium-sized onions, S even tablespoonfuls salt, 1 teacupful sugar. Cut the peppers and onions through meat chopper. Pour boihng water over them, let stand 5 minutes, drain, repeat second time, drain, then boil 10 min- utes, with boiling water turned on them, drain again. Add salt, sugar, and 2 small cups of vinegar. Cook 15 minutes and can. PICCALILLI One peck of green tomatoes chopped ; cover with 1 cup of salt, let stand over night. Chop 5 onions, 5 peppers, add 2 cups of brown sugar, 1 teaspoon- ful of white pepper, 1 tablespoonful ground cinna- mon, 1 tablespoonful of allspice, 1 tablespoonful of mustard, 2 quarts of vinegar. Drain the water off and chop the tomatoes still finer, put in the kettle alternate layers of spices and tomatoes and cook slowly all day. 248 The New England Cook Book PICKLED PLUMS To 14 pounds of plums, take 7 pounds of sugar, 1 quart of vinegar, S ounces of cloves, 2 ounces of allspice, ^ ounce of mace, ^ pound stick cinnamon. Put a layer of plums in a stone jar, and then a layer of spices, until you get them all in. Pour on the vinegar, set the jar in a pot of warm water, and let it boil until the plums on top crack open; put the spices in a swiss muslin bag. SPICED PLUMS 7 pounds of plums, 4 pounds of brown sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, 1 cup of vinegar. SWEET PICKLED PLUMS 7 pounds of plums, 3 pounds of sugar, 1 quart of vinegar. Pickles 249 1 ounce of cinnamon, 1 ounce of cloves. Put the spices in a bag and boil in the sugar and vinegar, and pour over the fruit while hot. PICKLE QUINCE Cut 5 or 6 quinces in pieces and put them in an earthen pot or pan with a gallon of water and 2 pounds of honey ; mix together well, and then put them in a kettle to boil leisurely for ^ hour, and then strain your liquor to an earthen pot and when cold wipe your quinces clean, and put them into it. Cover air tight and they will keep all the year. TO PICKLE RADISHES Gather the youngest pods and put them into salt and water for 24 hours ; then make a pickle of vine- gar, cloves, mace, and whole peppers, add a little garlic ; boil this ; drain the pods from the salt and water, put them in the pickle, and bring quickly to a boil. Put in glass jars, cover with the pickle, and seal immediately. TO PICKLE RADISH PODS Gather your radish pods when they are quite 3'oung, and put them in salt and water, all night ; 250 The New England Cook Book then boil the salt and water they lay in, and pour it upon your pods, and cover your jars close to keep in the steam. When it grows cold, make it boiling hot, and pour it on again; keep doing so till your pods are quite green, then put them in a sieve to drain. Make a pickle for them of white wine vine- gar, with a little mace, ginger, long pepper, and horse radish; pour it boiling hot upon your pods; when it is almost cold, make your vinegar twice hot as before and pour it upon them. Seal air tight. PICKLED RAISINS A layer of raisins, a little sugar and spice, and scalding vinegar to cover them. SALAMAGUNDI Salt shad sliced thin and washed in 2 or 3 waters, onions sliced thin, cover with vinegar and let stand awhile and drain; add fresh vinegar. TO PICKLE SAMPHIRE (1) Pick your samphire from dead or withered branches, lay it in a bell metal or brass pot, then put in a pint of water and a pint of vinegar; con- tinue this until your pickle is an inch above the Pickles 251 samphire. Close the pot tightly and let it boil for an hour. When it is cold put in tubs or pots, as- sorting the best stalks by themselves. TO PICKLE SAMPHIRE (2) On the seacoast this is merely preserved in salt and water, or equal parts of sea salt and vinegar, but as it is sometimes sent fresh into inland parts, the best way of managing it under such circum- stances is to steep it 2 days in brine, then drain and put it in a stone jar covered with vinegar and having a lid, over which put a thick paste of flour and water and set it in a cool oven over night, or in a warmer oven until it nearly boils. Then when it becomes cold remove the paste and add cold vinegar and secure as other pickles. SHIRLEY SAUCE Twelve good-sized ripe tomatoes; 2 bell peppers (large ones); 2 onions (many omit these, and like the sauce better — consult your own taste). Scald and skin the tomatoes ; chop the peppers and onions (if used) very fine. Then add 1 cup of vinegar, and boil 2 hours ; then put in another cup of vinegar and boil 1 hour, or until the mixture does not sep- arate. Then stir in 1 teaspoonful of cloves, 1 des- 252 The New England Cook Book sertspoonful of cinnamon, and a teaspoonful of pimento (allspice). TO PICKLE SPRATS FOR ANCHOVIES Take an anchovy barrel, or a deep glazed pot, put a few bay leaves at the bottom, a layer of bay salt, and some saltpeter, mixed together; then a layer of sprats crowded close, then bay leaves, and the same salt and sprats and so on until your barrel or pot is full ; then put in the head of your barrel tightly and once a week turn the other end upwards ; in 3 months they will be fit to eat as raw anchovies. TO PICKLE SPARROWS OR SQUAB-PIGEONS Take your sparrows, pigeons, or larks, draw them and cut off their legs ; then make a pickle of water, I pint of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, salt, pepper, cloves, and mace. When it boils put in your xsparrows ; when they are done remove to cool. Put them in a jar, then make a strong pickle of Rhenish wine and white wine vinegar; put in an onion, a sprig of thyme and savory, some lemon-peel, some cloves, mace, and whole pepper; season it pretty high with salt ; boil all these together. When cold pour over Pickles 253 your sparrows. Once a month boil the pickle over again and when the bones are dissolved it is ready to serve. CHOPPED TOMATO PICKLE 6 quarts green tomatoes, 2 or 3 green peppers chopped fine, 1 cup of salt. Let them stand over night. Then drain and boil in vinegar and water (about J water). Boil 20 minutes, drain again, then add 3 pints of vinegar, 2 pounds of sugar, 1 tablespoonful cinnamon, 1 tablespoonful ginger, 1^ tablespoonfuls of mustard, 1 tablespoonful of allspice, and 1 tablespoonful of cloves. Boil -J hour. SWEET PICKLED TOMATOES (1) One pint vinegar and 1 pound of sugar to 4 pounds of fruit. Scald tomatoes in salt and water; 254 The New England Cook Book then drain and place in the jar. Then put sugar and vinegar in a kettle on the stove; then spices as follows: Cinnamon, cloves and white mustard seed, and 1 red pepper, and let them scald thoroughly and pour on the tomatoes, keeping them covered. SWEET PICKLED TOMATOES (2) Slice and boil in ginger water until the wild taste is removed. Then, to 2 pounds of the fruit, take 1 pound of brown sugar and 1 pint of vinegar. Spice very highly with cinnamon, cloves and mace. Let it have a good boil. TOMATO MANGOES Take large green tomatoes, cut with the stem a piece large enough to permit the scooping out of the seeds, and then fill with mustard seed and spices, or anything which is preferred. Secure the piece cut out and cover v/ith cold vinegar. TOMATO RELISH 1 peck of green tomatoes sliced, 1 dozen onions sliced. Pickles 255 Sprinkle them with s;ilt and let them stand until the next day, when drain them. Then use the fol- lowing* spices : 1 box mustard, H ounces of black pepper, 1 ounce of whole cloves, 1 ounce of yellow mustard seed, 1 ounce of allspice. Put in kettle a layer of spices and 1 of tomatoes and onions alternately. Cover them with vinegar, wet mustard before putting it in. Let the whole boil 20 minutes. TO PICKLE WALNUTS Take green walnuts about midsummer, and cover with ordinary vinegar; change them into fresh once in 14 days for 6 weeks. Then take 2 gallons of the best vinegar and put in 1 ounce each of bruised coriander seeds, carraway seeds and dill seeds, 3 ounces of sliced ginger, 1 ounce of whole mace, an ounce each of ground nut- meg* and pepper. Let this boil a few minutes, add the walnuts, boil again, and put in jars and seal. 256 TJw New England Cook Book PICKLED WATERMELON RIND Pare the green from the rind of a large-sized watermelon, cut into small strips and throw into cold water. When all are done, put in a porcelain kettle in cold water and boil until it can be easily pierced with a straw. Strain through a colander, put in your kettle 2^ quarts of cider, 2 pounds of sugar, 1 dozen sticks of cinnamon, 2 teaspoonfuls each of whole cloves and allspice. Put the rind when well drained into this and boil for an hour or more. Put in jar and cover tightly. Can be used in a month. SWEET PICKLED WATER- MELON RIND Cut rinds into small pieces and remove skin; cover with cold water and a little salt and cook until ten- der. Make a syrup of 6 cups of sugar and 3 of vinegar, a few cinnamon sticks, and 2 tablespoonfuls of whole cloves. Boil the sugar and vinegar for 6 minutes, add the spices, and simmer until the syrup thickens ; add the rind and simmer an hour. Fill jars and seal hot. Pickles 257 WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE All the English sauces in popular use are founded upon walnut catsup — that is, of English walnuts — or upon mushroom catsup. To make a catsup of walnuts, the green shells are taken in these propor- tions : 2 gallons walnut juice, 5 pounds salt, mixed and bruised, and allowed to lie a week ; the liquor is then pressed out, and to every gallon is added 4 ounces of allspice, 3 ounces of ginger, and pepper and cloves 2 ounces each, all bruised. The whole is then simmered for 30 minutes, and is then set aside to clear. This is the catsup. To make a sauce of this similar to Worcestershire, take 1 gallon of Port wine, f gallon of catsup, 2 pounds anchovies, with their liquor, 8 lemons, 48 shallots or small onions, scraped horseradish. If pounds; mace, 1 ounce; Cayenne, 2 ounces ; mustard, 8 ounces. Boil the whole gently, and then strain and bottle. Preserves APRICOT JAM Divide fine apricots that have become yellow, but not over ripe ; lay the hollow part uppermost on china dishes, and strew over 12 ounces of sugar to every pound of fruit. Let it lie until it becomes moist, then boil it W minutes, stirring it well. Blanch the kernels and boil with the jam. APRICOT OR ANY PLUM JAM After taking away- the stones of the apricots, and cutting out any blemishes they may have, put them over a slow fire, in a clean stewpan, with ^ pint of water ; when scalded, rub them through a hair-sieve. To every pound of pulp, put 1 pound of granulated sugar ; put it in the preserving pan over a brisk fire ; when it boils skim it well, throw in the kernels of the apricots, and J ounce of blanched bitter almonds; boil rapidly ^ hour, stirring all the time; remove from the fire and put in glasses or jam pots; cover with paraffine. 258 Preserves 259 APRICOT MARMALADE Take ripe apricots, cut in two and remove the stones ; put in the preserving kettle and allow 1 pound of sugar to one of fruit. Stir frequently and allow the fruit to boil 15 minutes or until a thread fomis from the spoon. Break half of the kernels, blanch the rest and just before removing the marmalade from the fire stir these in thoroughly. TO PRESERVE APRICOTS Stone and pare your apricots. Cover with an equal weight of sugar. Let stand over night. The next day put them in a preserving kettle, let them simmer a while and then boil until they are clear and tender. Pierce them with a fork that the syrup may penetrate into them, after which put them into glasses. Boil and skim the syrup and when it is cold put it on the apricots. Seal with paraffine. TO PRESERVE BAR- BERRIES Take the largest barberries you can get. To every pound of fruit allow 3 pounds of sugar. Al- low the sugar to boil 15 minutes before putting in the barberries. Let them come to a boil; remove 260 The New England Cook Booh from fire, skim them and return again to the stove and then boil. Then set them aside until the next day. Then put in glasses and pour the syrup over them. Set in sun to dry. Cover with paraffine. BARBERRY SAUCE WITH SWEET APPLE Half a peck of barberries, 2 quarts of molasses, 1 peck of sweet apples. Pick over the barberries, to remove the stems and leaves, wash them, and put on to boil with water enough to float them. Add the molasses and cook until the berries are tender. While they are cooking, pare, quarter, and core the apples. Skim out the barberries and cook the apples in the syrup, as many as can be cooked con- veniently. When tender, put them into the jar with the berries, and boil the syrup down until it is thick. Pour it over the fruit and the next morning heat all together again, and put away in a large stone jar. Scald it occasionally and it will keep without seal- ing. IMITATION BAR-LE-DUC Take 1 pound of currants to 5 pounds of raspber- ries. Crush the currants and weigh again with the raspberries, keeping the fruit separate by a bit of Preserves 261 paper, and allow f pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. Let the currants come to a boil, and, skim- ming carefully, let boil 25 minutes; then add the raspberries, and let cook until it jellies, about 20 min- utes longer; seal while hot. BRAMBLE AND APPLE To every pound mixed fruit allow 1 pound of pre- serving sugar; to each pound of bramble add 1 pound of sliced apple; boil for 1 hour from time it simmers. PRESERVED CHERRIES (1) Stone the cherries, saving all the juice; weigh, and to each pound allow f of a pound of sugar. If the cherries are very sour, allow 1 pound. Put the cherries into the preserving kettle, cov- ering with sugar, and stand aside for 6 hours; then bring it to a boil, skim, and simmer until the cher- ries are clear. Pour in jars and seal. PRESERVED CHERRIES (8) Pick and stone your cherries, allow an equal weight of sugar. Mix J of the sugar with currant juice; allow it to come to a boil, then put in your 262 The New England Cook Book cherries. Boil very rapidly now and then strewing in the sugar that was reserved. Skim well and when they are done fill glasses and when cold cover with paraffine. CHERRIES IN BRANDY Weigh the best morellos, having cut off the stalks, prick them with a needle, and drop them into jars or wide-mouthed bottles. Allow f the weight of sugar or rock candy, strew, fill up with brandy and cover air tight. TO MAKE MARMALADE OF CHERRIES Stone 4 pounds of cherries, add 1 quart of cur- rant juice. Simmer until tender, break and mash the fruit. Boil 3 pounds of sugar until it coats the spoon, add the cherries and boil until it thickens. Pour into glasses and when cold cover with paraffine. TO PRESERVE CHERRIES WITHOUT BOILING Cut the stalks an inch from the fruit, put the cherries into wide-mouthed bottles (olive bottles are excellent for this purpose). When full put pow- dered sugar over the top and pour in brandy enough to cover the fruit. Cork tightly. Preserves 263 TO PRESERVE GREEN CODLINS Take codlins about the size of a walnut with the stalks and a leaf or 2 on; put a handful of vine leaves in a pan of water, then codlins, then vine leaves, until the pan is full; cover it close, that no steam may get out; set it on a slow fire. When they are soft, remove the skins with a knife ; then put them in the same water with the vine leaves. It must be quite cold or it will be apt to crack them. Put in a little alum, and set them over a very slow fire until they are green, which will be in 3 or 4 hours. Take them out and lay them on a sieve to drain. Make a good syrup and give them a gen- tle boil once a day for 3 days; then put them in small jars. When cold cover with paraffine. COMPOTE OF CHESTNUTS Take some large fine roasted chestnuts, peel them and put them in a pan with some powdered sugar and a very little water. Let them simmer over a slow- fire for ^ hour. When done, take them out, put them into a dish, squeeze a little lemon- juice over them, and sprinkle with powdered sugar. 264 The New Eiigland Cook Book TO PRESERVE CITRON MELON Cut the melon into strips or squares, peel and seed it. Boil it in water luitil tender ; weigh before boil- ing. One pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Dis- solve the sugar in some of the water that the fruit has been boiled in. Lemon or ginger root to sea- son. Put the fruit into the syrup and boil a few minutes. CRANBERRY JELLY (1) S quarts of cranberries, 2 cups of water. Boil until soft, strain, add 1 pound of sugar td each pint of juice. CRANBERRY JELLY (2) Carefully wash and pick over 2 quarts of cran- berries; add 1 pint of cold water and place them in a porcelain-lined saucepan over a quick fire; stir oc- casionally, and. when the berries are soft mash them with a spoon; bring to a boil and then add a quart Preserves 265 bowl full of granulated sugar; boil 10 minutes and pour into molds. The berries should not be on the fire more than 25 minutes, as the more quickly they are done the more brilliant the color of the jelly. Cool the molds with cold water before using. CURRANT JELLY 1 pound of sugar to 1 quart of juice. Boil 20 minutes. TO DRY CURRANTS IN BUNCHES When the currants are stoned and tied up in bunches, to every pound of currants take 1^ pounds of sugar, put ^ pint of water, boil the syrup thor- oughly, lay your currants in it, set them on the fire, and let them just come to a boil; take them off and let them stand in the syrup until next day. Then let them come to a boil once more and take them off and let them stand 2 days. Remove from the syrup, drain well, put the bunches on plates, sift well with sugar, and put them near the stove to dry. The next day if the upper side is dry, turn them again, sift sugar over them, and when they are quite dry, lay between papers. 266 The New England Cook Book TO PRESERVE CUCUMBERS (1) Take large and fresh-gathered cucumbers, split them and take out the seeds, lay them in salt and water that can bear an egg, S days. Set them on the fire in cold water and a small lump of alum, and boil them a few minutes, or till tender. Drain, and pour on them a thin syrup ; let them stand 2 days. Boil the syrup again, and put it over the cucumbers ; repeat it twice more ; then have ready some fresh clarified sugar, boiled until thick ; put in the cucum- bers and simmer 5 minutes, set it by until the next day, boil the cucumbers and syrup again, and set them in glasses for use. (2) Take small cucumbers and large ones that will cut into quarters, the greenest and most free seeds that you can get ; put them in strong salt and water, in a straight-mouth jar, with a cabbage leaf to keep them down; set them in a warm place till they are yellow; wash them out and set them over the fire in fresh water, with a little salt in, and a fresh cab- bage leaf over them; cover the pan very close, but take care they do not boil. If they are not a fine Preserves 267 green, change the water and make them hot and cover them as before. When they are a good green take them off the fire, let them stand till they are cold, then cut the large ones in quarters, take out the seeds and soft part, then put them in cold water, and let them stand S days, but change the water twice each day to take out the salt. Take a pound of sugar and ^ pint of water, set it over the fire; when you have skimmed it clean, put in a rind of lemon and 1 ounce of ginger, with the outside scraped off (when it is pretty thick, take it off), and when it is cold wipe the cucumbers dry and put them in; boil the syrup once or twice in 2 or 3 days for 3 weeks and strengthen the syrup, if required. The syrup is to be cold when you put it on your cucumbers. TO PRESERVE SMALL CUCUMBERS Boil small cucumbers but not very tender; drain and make a hole through every one with a large needle. Pare and weigh them and to every pound allow a pound of sugar. Allow 1 pint of water to every pound of sugar and boil together into a syrup, keeping them well covered; remove from fire and let them stand for 3 or 4 days. Make a fresh syrup of J pound of sugar to every 268 The New England Cook Book pound of cucumbers, the juice of lemon, and a little ambergris, enough water to moisten it, and when this is boiled to a thick syrup, have the pickles placed in a jar and pour the syrup over them. Seal. TO PRESERVE CURRANTS IN JELLY Strip the currants from their stems, put in an earthen pot placed in boiling water and keep the water boiling S hours. Remove the currants to a cheese-cloth bag and strain off the juice. To every pint of juice add 1 pound of sugar. Have ready some fresh ripe currants and let the whole boil 20 minutes, or until it jellies. Pour in glasses and when cold cover with paraffine. CURRANTS PRESERVED WITHOUT COOKING Mash currants thoroughly ; add equal quantities of sugar. Let stand 6 or 8 hours; fill jars and cover with paraffine. PRESERVE CURRANTS IN BUNCHES White of 1 egg slightly beaten; add pulverized sugar enough to make thin frosting. Dip in whole Preserves 269 bunches of cuiTants and when well covered shake slightly ; then dip in granulated sugar. Shake and lay on plate in sun to dry. TO BOTTLE DAMSONS OR GOOSEBERRIES Damsons should have attained their dark color, but not be ripe. Be careful not to bruise them. Fill wide-mouthed bottles, shake them down so as to get in as many as possible, and to each bottle put in a wine glassful of good home-made wine, either ginger or raisin, no other is so good. Cover the top with paraffine paper; stand the bot- tles in cold water up to their necks and let them come to a boil, remove from the fire ; remove the paper when they are quite cold, cover the fruit with sugar, add brandy, and cover the bottles air tight. Currants that are full grown but not turned may be preserved in the same way. DAMSON CHEESE It is sometimes made with the whole skins and pulp — sometimes with the pulp only. In either case, the fruit is first to be baked or boiled in a stone jar until it is tender, and the stones will sep- arate. If the skins are to be used, merely take out the 270 The New England Cook Book stones with a spoon, then measure it into a preserving pan. If the skins are objected to, rub it through a very coarse sieve, so that they may be retained with the stones. Having measured the fruit, set it over a brisk fire, and let it boil rapidly until the liquid has evaporated dry; then add powdered sugar in the proportion of ^ pound to 1 quart of fruit and let it boil on until the jam candies to the sides of the pan. The stones may be cracked and the kernels skinned and boiled in the jam. Place in shallow jars, so that the cheese may be easily turned out when brought to table. Cover with paraffine to keep it air tight until used. TO PRESERVE DAMSONS WHOLE Take some damsons, cut them in pieces and put them in a kettle with as much water as will cover them. Let them boil until the liquor is pretty strong, then strain, and to every pound of damsons allow a pound of granulated sugar, put ^ of the sugar in the liquor and set it over the fire; when it simmers put in your damsons, let them come to a boil, and then take them off for ^ hour, keeping them close covered; then put them on again and let them sim- mer over the fire, often turning them ; take them out, put them in a bowl, cover with remainder of syrup and pour the hot liquor over them, let them Preserves 271 stand until the next day. Then boil them until they are done; take them out and put in pots. Boil the liquor until it jellies and pour it on them. When cold seal with paraffine. FIGS AND WALNUTS Pare figs and sprinkle heavily with sugar, and let stand over night. Turn into a preserving kettle and let cook ^ hours. Add 1 cupful of sugar to 1 pint of fruit and the juice of a large lemon. Let this cook until transparent and until it will jelly, which will be 2 hours or more; stir frequently to prevent burning. Half an hour before removing from the fire add slightly-chopped walnuts, ^ cupful to 1 pint of fruit. Can and seal. FOUR-FRUIT JAM Gooseberries, cherries, currants, and strawberries, equal quantities of sugar; cook until thick. GELEE DES QUARTRE FRUITS Remove the stones and stems from 1 pound of cher- ries, seed 1 pound of gooseberries, allow an equal quantity of hulled strawberries and currants. Put the fruits in a preserving kettle, with 4 pounds of 272 The New England Cook Book &' sugar. Let it boil briskly 10 minutes and put in jars. TO PRESERVE GINGER If your ginger can be had green, it is the best. Pare it and throw it into cold water, as you do so to preserve the whiteness. If dried ginger is used, boil it in several waters until tender; then proceed as above. After all the stalks are cleanly scraped, boil until tender. Pour off the liquor and repeat 3 times ; when quite cold drain the ginger and put it in a china bowl. Clarify sugar for preserving it; allow the propor- tion of 8 pounds of sugar to 7 of ginger. Let the sugar become cold; then pour enough of the sugar over the ginger to cover it. Let it stand 2 days. Then strain the syrup from the ginger and boil it with the remainder of the sugar W minutes or ^ hour. When it is cold, again pour it over the gin- ger and let it stand 3 or 4 days ; by this time the ginger will have finely swollen. Then strain the syrup; put the ginger into jars. Let the syrup come to a boil, pour it boiling hot over the ginger and seal. Preserves 273 TO PRESERVE GOOSE- BERRIES Take gooseberries that are not too ripe, stone them, put them in the kettle with enough water to cover them, scald until they are tender, remove from the water and peal off the outer skin, weigh the fruit and allow an equal quantity of sugar. Add sugar and fruit to water in which goose- berries were scalded, boil until the fruit is clear; put in glasses, and when cold cover with paraffine. TO PRESERVE GOOSE- BERRIES IN HOPS Take large gooseberries, make a small hole in the end and remove the seeds ; be careful not to break them. Take fine long thorns or thin skewers and fill the stick of thorn with gooseberries, place in a covered pan, with enough water to cover the fruit, scald, but do not let the water boil, until they are green. Drain them. Have ready a syrup made by boiling whole gooseberries until they break ; drain off the water. To 1 pound of hops allow 1^ pounds of granulated sugar; to this add the water and let boil until the hops are clear green; then take them out and lay them on a platter. Boil the syrup until it is thick. Place the hops 274 The New England Cook Booh in a deep jar, then put in the gooseberries that are on the sticks, cover with the syrup, and seal. GOOSEBERRY JAM To every pound of fruit allow f pound of loaf sugar, add ^ pint currant juice to each 6 pounds of fruit; use dry fruit and stir well in making. Boil gooseberries and currant juice for 1 hour; then add sugar and boil from -| to f hour from time of sim- mering. TO MAKE GOOSEBERRY JAM Gather your gooseberries full ripe, but green; top pnd tail them, and weigh them; 1 pound of fruit to f pound of sugar, and J pint of water ; boil this clear and tender and put them in pots. GRAPE MARMALADE Pick over and wash grapes, heat slowly, and boil until very soft. Rub through a fine sieve, until all seeds and skins have gone through. Put what remains into a little cold water and rinse well until all the pulp is free from the skins ; then strain again and add this water to the pulp. Boil slowly J hour. Measure the pulp, add equal quantity of sugar, cook Preserves 275 again for 10 minutes, or until it boils up in thick bubbles. Turn in jars and cover tightly. JAMS In making jam of very ripe, juicy fruits a por- tion of the jelly may be taken from it, which will improve the jam, taking care to have sufficient syinip to jelly round the fruit. Each quart of fruit and 2 pounds of sugar will admit the removal of ^ pint of jelly without injury. TO MAKE JELLY Boil the fruit in just enough v/ater to cover it. Then strain through a bag. Measure the juice, and to each pint of juice allow 1 pint of white sugar. Put the juice on the fire and spread the sugar on platters in the oven, so that it and the juice will be hot by the same time. Leave the oven door open and stir often to prevent burning. Notice when the juice begins to boil, and boil exactly 20 minutes. Then add sugar and stir quickly till well dissolved, no longer. Let it boil up a moment \\4thout touch- ing it, and then fill the glasses (prepared as for can- ning) without delay before the jelly stiffens. Do not cover until cold. 276 The Ncto England Cook Book LEMON PRESERVE Pare jour lemons very thin, make a hole in the top and remove the core and seeds, rub them with salt, and let them lie in water 5 days. Then boil them in fresh salt and water 15 minutes; have ready a thin syrup of a quart of water and a pound of sugar; boil them in it 5 minutes, once a day for 4 or 5 days. Put them in a large jar, let them stand for 6 or 8 weeks, and it will make them look clear and plump ; then take them out of their syrup or they will mold. Make a syrup of sugar with just enough water to dissolve it ; boil and skim it ; then put in your lemons, and boil them gently until they are clear. Put into your jars and seal at once. MARMALADE 1 grapefruit, 10-cent size, 1 orange, 1 lemon. Slice and chop very fine. Measure and add 3 cups water for each cup of fruit; let stand over night. In the morning cook 15 minutes. Then measure again and add an equal quantity of sugar. Makes 15 tumblers. Let cook ^ hour or more. Preserves 277 TO MAKE WHITE MARMALADE Scald and pare your quinces, scrape the pulp clean from the cores, adding to every pound of pulp 1 pound of sugar. Add a little water to the sugar and boil it candy high ; then put in the quince pulp ; cook until it thickens ; let it come to a quick boil and pour into jars. VEGETABLE MARROW Pare and scrape out seeds, then cut up marrow into rather large pieces and to each pound of mar- row allow 1 pound of sugar. Let it stand over night, then pour off the liquor and boil until it thickens. Put in pieces of marrow, with whole ginger and chilli pods, also lemon-rind tied in muslin bag, and boil for 1^ hours, or until it syrups ; boiling must be done very slowly or it will crystallize. One-fourth pound whole ginger, 24 chilli pods, and 2 lemons to 8 pounds of marrow. TO PRESERVE MULBER- RIES WHOLE Place some mulberries in a pan on the back of the stove, with just enough water to prevent their burn- ing. When they are done, strain off 1 pint of juice, 278 The New England Cook Book allow 3 pounds of sugar and let the juice and syrup come to a boil. Add 2 pounds of ripe mulbemes, letting them stand in the syrup until they are thor- oughly warm ; let them boil very gently ; when they are about half done remove from the fire and let them stand in the syrup until the next day. Then boil them again, very gently, until the syrup is pretty thick. Put in jars and seal. ORANGE MARMALADE Take a pound of oranges, pare very thin, quarter the peel, put it in warm water and cover close, and let boil until the peel is tender, changing the water 2 or 3 times. Drain, scrape off any strings, cut fine. Boil a pound of sugar with a little water, put in the peels, let boil ^ hour, add the orange pulp, free from seeds, and juice of 2 large lemons; let all boil together J hour longer. Pour into glasses, and when cold cover with paraffine. ORIENTAL MARMALADE Six pounds of cherries, S pounds of seeded raisins, S pounds of sugar and the finely-chopped rinds of 4 oranges. Cook slowly until thick, then add the pulp and juice of the oranges and cook 5 minutes longer. Seal in cans. Preserves 279 TO PRESERVE ORANGES WHOLE (1) Cover good oranges with water and let them stand 3 days, turning them twice a day. Drain and tie them in a cloth and put them into boiling water. They must be kept covered with water and boiled until very tender. Allow 1| pounds of sugar to every pound of fruit. Take § of the sugar and to every pound of this al- low a pint of apple water ; allow this to boil. Cut a little hole in the bottom of your orange, re- move the seed and fill with sugar that is left; prick the oranges with a fork and put them into the boil- ing syrup and add any sugar that may remain. When the syrup jellies and the oranges look clear, they are done. Put them in glasses with the hole uppermost and pour the syrup over them. Seal. TO PRESERVE ORANGES WHOLE (2) Take good seedless oranges, pare them very thin and soak them in water 3 or 4 days, turning them every day; then drain and put them in a kettle, 280 TJie New England Cook Book cover with water, keeping them under the water, and let them boil until tender, replenishing the water as it boils off. Drain, and to every pound of orange take If pounds of sugar; cover your orange with a part of the sugar and let them stand a little. Then make your jelly for them thus: Slice 2 dozen apples into water, boil tender, strain the liquor from the pulp and to every pound of orange allow H pints of this liquor; put to it J of the sugar you have reserved; let this boil and skim it well, after which set it aside until it is cold. Return it to the kettle, add the oranges, bring to a boil, add the remainder of your sugar and let it boil until the fruit looks clear. Remove to glasses, put- ting an orange in each glass. Continue to boil the syrup until it is almost a jelly; pour over the fruit and when cold seal with paraffine. TO MAKE WHITE QUINCE PASTE Scald the quinces tender to the core, pare them and scrape the quinces clean from the core. Mash very smooth and strain through a colander. To every pound of pulp allow 1 pound and 2 ounces of sugar. Boil the sugar until it candies, then put in the pulp, stir it constantly until it comes clear from the bot- Preserves 281 torn of the preserving kettle. Take it off and lay it on plates pretty thin. Cut it in whatever shape you please and make quince chips of it. Dust it with sugar; put it in the stove. Turn it and dust the other side. When dry put it in boxes with paper between. For red quince paste cover the quince with cochi- neal. BRANDY PEACHES Put the peaches into scalding water and pull off the skins and let them stand in cold water to keep them from turning dark. Make the syrup to boil them in, by putting 1 pound of sugar to 2 quarts of water. When cooked through in this syrup, take out carefully and cool. Take Ij pounds of sugar to 1 pound of fruit for a syrup, using as little water as possible. Boil until quite thick. When cold, add to each quart 1 pint of brandy and pour over the peaches. PEACH MARMALADE Take ripe peaches, pare them and cut them in half, taking out the stones ; weigh them, and to each pound of fruit allow -J pound of sugar. Mash them with tlie sugar and put them into the preserving kettle. Boll them until they become a shapeless mass, which 282 Tlie New England Cook Book will be about f hour. Stir the marmalade frequently to prevent its sticking to the kettle. Blanch half the kernels, and cut them in two ; when the marma- lade is about half done put them in to give it a fine flavor. Take out the kernels when the marmalade is cold and then tie it up in pots or glasses ; cover with paraffine. Marmalade of plums or green gages may be made in the same way. COMPOTE OF PEARS Pare them, but leave them on the stems ; lay in the preserving pan. To a dozen pears allow a pound of white sugar, a gill of water, a few sticks of cinna- mon, with some slips of lemon-peel. Simmer them till tender and when done pour in a glass of Port wine. When quite done take out the pears and lay them in a glass jar. Strain the syrup, give it an- other boil and pour it over them. Seal while hot. TO PRESERVE GREEN PINEAPPLES Get small green pineapples, and lay them in a strong brine for 5 days. Then put a large handful of vine leaves in the bottom of a saucepan, put in your pineapples, fill up your pan with vine leaves, then pour on the salt and water in which the pine- Preserves 283 apples had been standing, cover up close and let stand over a slow fire, until the pineapples are a light green. Have ready a thin syrup made of a quart of water and a pound of sugar. When it is almost cold put it into a deep jar and put in the pineapples, with the tops on. Be sure the fruit is well covered with the syrup. Then cover them up and let stand a week. Boil the syrup again and pour it carefully into your jar, lest you break the tops of your pine- apples, and let it stand 8 or 10 weeks, and give the syrup 2 or 3 boils to keep it from molding. Let the syrup stand until it is near cold, before you put it on. When your pineapples are quite full and gi'een take them out of the syrup ; and make a thick syrup of 3 pounds of sugar, with as much water as will dissolve it ; boil and skim it well ; put a few slices of white ginger in it. When it is near cold, pour it upon your pineapple and seal. PRESERVED PINEAPPLE (1) Pare the pineapple and carefully pick out every particle of the eyes. A small pointed silver knife is best for this work. Either pick off with a fork or grate off the soft part, rejecting the core. Weigh — allow f pound of sugar to each pound ; put all together; stand over night. In the morn- ing bring to a boil, skim, and cook slowly ^ hour. 284 The New England Cook Book PRESERVED PINEAPPLE (2) Remove the eyes and cores of fine large pineapples. Shred the fruit with a silver fork and allow f of a pound of sugar and 4 cup of water to every pound of pineapple. Let the sugar and water come to a boil; skim off any impurities that may rise to the surface. Put in the pineapple and let it boil gently for f of an hour. Fill jars and seal hot. TO PRESERVE GOLDEN PIPPINS Boil the rind of an orange very tender, then lay it in water for 2 or 3 daj^s, take a quart of golden pippins, pare, core, quarter, and boil them to a strong jelly, and run through a jelly bag; then take 12 pip- pins, pare them and scrape out the cores ; put 2 pounds of loaf sugar into a stewpan with near a pint of water. When it boils, skim it, and put in your pippins, with the orange-rind in thin slices ; let them boil till the sugar is very thick and will almost candy, then put in a pint of pippin jelly, boil them fast till the jelly is clear, then squeeze in the juice of a lemon ; let it come to a boil and put into pots or glasses with the orange-peel. Preserves 285 PLUM COMPOTE 6 pounds of plums, pitted, 6 pounds granulated sugar, 2 pounds seeded raisins, 4 large oranges chopped, 2 J pounds English walnuts (if bought shelled, 1 pound). Boil to consistency of jelly, put the nuts in whole or broken, as you like, after the rest is cooked. Roll oranges in sugar before removing the rind, as in that way you get the flavor without using the rind. Re- move the pits and put the sugar and orange- juice on the plums and let stand over night. Stir often if sugar is not dissolved. Do not add any water, as there will be plenty of syrup. Grapes may be used in the same way. TO PRESERVE BLACK PEAR-PLUMS OR BLACK PLUMS Take 1 pound of plums, slit them in the seam and put them in a close-covered kettle, and set them in a pan of boiling water. As they yield liquor pour it out. To a pint of this liquor, take \\ pounds of sugar; put them together and give them a boil and a skim, after which take it off to cool a little ; 286 The New England Cook Book then take jour pound of plums, and as you put them in, give every one a prick or two with a needle ; simmer on the back part of the stove for | hour, then set them aside until the next day, that they may absorb the syrup without breaking the skin. The next day cook them until the syrup grows thick, skim them well and put them in your jars and seal. TO PRESERVE PLUMS GREEN The plums that will be greenest are the white plums ; gather them about the middle of July. Let them soak in water about 12 hours ; then scald them in several waters. Do not let the fire be too hot, but the second water must boil when the plums are put in. When they begin to shrivel, peel off the skin, keep the fruit whole and let a third water be hot, and when it boils, put in the plums and let them boil a few minutes ; remove from fire and keep tight covered for | hour, when they should look green and tender. To every pound of fruit allow a pound of granu- lated sugar; put J pound of sugar in 4 tablespoon- fuls of water, set it on the fire, and when it begins to boil, take it off and put in your plums one by one, and strew the rest of your sugar upon them, only sav- ing a little to put in with your perfume, musk or Preserves 287 ambergris, which must be put in a little before they are done; let them boil gently on a moderate fire ^ hour or more, till they are gi*een and the syrup thickens, put your plums in jars, bring the syrup to a boil, pour it over them and seal. TO PRESERVE GREEN PLUMS Take green plums and put in cold water, let them come to a boil, drain and remove the skins, to every pound of fruit allow 2 of sugar. Add a little water to the sugar and boil to a thick syrup before the plums are put in. Boil until tender, put in glasses and seal. TO PRESERVE WHITE PEA R-P L U M S Take pear-plums when they are yellow, before they are too ripe, give them a slit in the seam, and prick them behind. Make ready water scalding hot, put a little sugar to it to sweeten it ; and put in your plums, and cover them close. Set them on the fire to coddle and take them off sometimes a little and set them on again ; take care they do not break. Have an equal weight of sugar boiled to a syrup, and when the plums are coddled pretty tender take them out of their liquor and put them in the syrup, which must 288 The New England Cook Book be but blood beat vvlien the plums go in ; let tlieni boil till they are clear. Skim them, take them off, let stand ^ hours; then fetch them on again and when they are thoroughly preserved take them up and lay them in glasses, boil your syrup until it is thick, pour over your plums. A month after if your syrup grows thin boil it up again, or make a fine jell of pippins and put on them. This way you may do the primordian plum, or any white plum; and when they are cold paper them up. PRESERVE PUMPKIN Take a fine ripe pumpkin of deep yellow color. Cut from it as many slices as you want; they should be cut very thin. Put the slices of pumpkin into lime water and let them soak 24 hours. Take them out, wash them well, and wipe dry. Make a clear syrup of sugar and a little water, put the slices of pumpkin into it and let them simmer over a slow fire without stirring for a day and a night, but first flavor them to your taste with lemon- juice mixed into the syrup. When done they will be crisp and transparent. Put them into broad stone pots and cover with brandy paper. Preserves 289 TO MAKE WHITE JELLY OF QUINCES Pare your quinces and cut them in halves, then cover and parboil them; when they are soft take them out and crush them through a strainer but not too hard, only to clear the juice. Measure an equal quantity of juice and granulated sugar, boil the sugar until it thickens, put in the juice and let it simmer, skim off any froth. Slice a white preserved quince and put a piece in the bottom of each jelly- glass. Pour your jelly in the glasses and when cold seal with paraffine. TO MAKE QUINCE MARMA- LADE Pare, core and quarter your quinces, then weigh them; to every pound of quince allow 1 pound of sugar. Take the parings and cores and 3 or 4 quinces cut in pieces, put them in the preserving ket- tle and cover them with water and let it boil 2 or 3 hours, then add a quart of barberries and boil for another hour and strain off the liquor. Add a pint of this liquor to every pound of quince, add \ of your sugar and let boil together over a gentle fire, cover closely and be careful it does not bum, put in the rest of your sugar by degrees, and 290 The New England Cook Book stir the mass from the bottom. When it is good color and very tender try some with a spoon; if it jellies enough put into jars and seal when cold. TO PRESERVE WHOLE QUINCES WHITE Take large green quinces, scald them until they are pretty soft, pare and core them with a scoop. Allow an equal weight of sugar. Make a syrup of ^ the quantity of sugar and put in the quinces, boiling them as rapidly as possible. Have in readiness apple liquor made by boiling sliced apples in water until they are tender and strain- ing this juice from the pulp. Add to this the re- maining sugar, boil until this is a jelly, and when your quinces are clear put them into the jelly. Let them come to a boil and then put them, in the glasses ; when cold seal with paraffine. RASPBERRY JAM (1) To every pound of fruit allow 1 pound of sugar, ^ pint red currant juice. Gather fruit in dry w^eather, take off stalks, and put into preserving pan ; break well with wooden spoon and boil for \ hour, keeping well stirred. Then add currant juice and Preserves 291 sugar and boil for ^ hour, skim well after sugar is added or presei*ve will not be clear. RASPBERRY JAM (2) Rub fresh gathered raspberries, picked on a dry day, through a wicker sieve; to 1 pint of pulp, put 1 pound of granulated sugar, put it in the preserv- ing pan over a hot fire; when it begins to boil, skim it well and stir it 20 minutes; put in small glasses, cover with paraffine. TO PRESERVE RASPBER- RIES IN JELLY To a pound of the best fruit allow 1^ pounds of sugar. Boil the sugar into a thick syiaip, add the fruit and boil gently, adding by degrees ^ pint of currant juice. When the whole will jelly in the spoon, skim off the seeds and fill the jelly glasses. When cold cover with paraffine. RHUBARB JAM To every pound of fruit allow 1 pound of loaf sugar, and rind of ^ lemon. Wipe fruit perfectly dry. Strip off peel or string and slice up ; boil slowly and stir well while boiling, skim well. Boil young fruit f hour, old fruit \\ to IJ hours. 292 The New England Cook Book RHUBARB MARMALADE 2 pounds rhubarb cut into pieces, 1| pounds of sugar, 1 lemon, rind only. Put all together in a deep dish, cutting the rind of the lemon fine. Let it stand until next day. Then pour off the juice into a preserving kettle and boil nearly f hour. Add fruit and boil 10 minutes. Put in jars and seal when cold. TO PRESERVE SPRIGS GREEN Gather the sprigs of mustard when it is going to seed, put them in a pan of spring water, with a great many vine leaves under and over them ; put to them 1 ounce of alum, set it over a gentle fire; when it is hot take it off, and let it stand till it is quite cold, then cover it very close and set it near the fire. When they are green take out the sprigs and lay them on a sieve to drain. Make a good syrup ; boil your sprigs in it once a day for 3 days, put them in jars and keep for use. They are very pretty to stick in the middle of a preserved orange. You may preserve young peas when they are just come into pod the same way. Preserves 293 STRAWBERRIES Put I pound of sugar and 2 tablespoonfuls water to boil until it crystallizes. Put in the best big strawberries and just let it come to a boil. Skim out fruit and put in jars; fill to overflowing with boiling syrup. Seal. STRAWBERRY JAM To every pound of fruit allow IJ pounds of loaf sugar. Select well-ripened but sound strawberries, pick them from the stalks, and put the fruit and sugar in a preserving pan. Simmer the whole over a moderate fire from J to f hour, carefully removing scum as it rises. Stir jam only enough to prevent it from burning, as the fruit should be preserved as whole as possible. STRAWBERRY JELLY Crush 4 pounds of strawberries with 1 pound of white gooseberries, strain the juice through a cloth, and to every quart of juice allow an equal quantity of sugar; let the juice and sugar come to a boil, and boil until it jellies, about ^ hour. 294j The New England Cook Book STRAWBERRY MARMA- LADE Put 4 quarts of strawberries through a fine sieve. Boil what has been strained until it is reduced ^. Have ready a thick syrup of 3 pounds of sugar and 1^ cups of water. Add sugar to the fruit and boil 20 minutes. Skim carefully as it boils. STRAWBERRIES, RASP- BERRIES, GOOSEBER- RIES, AND CURRANTS Allow an equal weight of sugar and fruit, put the fruit in a preserving pan, bruise it a little and put it on the stove^ stir it carefully to keep it from stick- ing to the bottom and sides of the pan. Let it boil I hour before adding the sugar. Skim it well. Boil until the syrup jellies when put on a plate and al- lowed to cool. When done put in jars, set in the sun for several hours and when cold cover with par- affine. TO MAKE SYRUP OF ORANGE PEEL To every pint of water in which the orange peels were steeped boil it and when it has boiled a little Preserves 295 squeeze in sufficient lemon- juice to please the taste, having filtered the lemon-juice through a thin cloth. Boil and skim the syrup until clear; then bottle. SYRUP FOR PRESERVES 3 pounds granulated sugar, 1 pint clear cold water. White of 1 Qgg. Put the sugar and water into a porcelain-lined ket- tle. Set it on the fire. Before the syrup becomes hot, beat the Ggg slightly and mix thoroughly into it. When it begins to boil, skim it. Do not let it boil over, but let it boil until no more scum arises. The object of the egg is to clarify the syrup; it can be made with or without. GREEN TOMATO PRESERVE To every pound of tomatoes use an equal amount of sugar. Slice tomatoes over night in the sugar. In the morning boil together until the tomatoes look transparent. If the juice is not thick enough skim out the tomatoes and boil it down. When the pre- serve is nearly done add lemons, allowing 1 to every 2 pounds of fruit. Do not slice lemons too thin. This makes an excellent preserve and tastes much like preserved figs. 296 Tlie New England Cook Book TOMATO MARMALADE (1) To 1 quart of ripe tomatoes measured after the fruit has been peeled, cut up, brought to a boil and skimmed thoroughly, or to each 2-pound can toma- toes, take 2 pounds of sugar, 2 oranges, and 1 lemon. Remove the pulp from the oranges and lemon with a spoon, boil the rinds until tliej are tender, and cut them in narrow strips with a pair of scissors. Put all the ingredients on to boil slowly, stirring con- stantly, for about S hours, or until the marmalade is thick and the strips of rind and other particles of fruit are transparent. Seal tight in small jars. Made of yellow tomatoes the marmalade is beautiful. TOMATO MARMALADE (2) Take fine and ripe tomatoes, cut them in halves, and squeeze out the juice. Put them in a preserv- ing pan, with a few peach leaves, a clove of garlic, some slices of onion or shallot, and a bundle of pars- ley. Stew them until they are sufficiently done, pulp them through a sieve, and boil them down like other marmalade, adding salt. Put them into small jars, pepper the tops, and pour clarified butter over. Eat it with fish, etc., or stir the contents of a small pot into the gravy of stews or fricassees. Candies and Conserves BURNT ALMONDS Take a pound of shelled sweet almonds, a pound of loaf sugar, and ^ pint of water. Melt the sugar and water and then set it over the fire. Put in the almonds, and stir them about till they are well dis- persed through the sugar. Let them boil and when you hear the almonds crack they are sufficiently done. Take them off and stir them till they are dry, and then put them into a wire sieve and sift from them the loose sugar. Put this sugar again into the pan with sufficient water to moisten it, and let come to a boil. Then put in 2 spoonfuls of cochineal powder to color it red; add the almonds and stir them over the fire un- til they are quite dry. Put them away in glass jars. TO FRICASSfiE ALMONDS Take 1 pound of unbleached almonds, dip them in the beaten white of an egg. Then take J pound of granulated sugar, boil until it sugars again, put in your almonds and stir them 297 298 Tlie New England Cook Book until they are well covered with sugar, then set them on plates and put in a slow oven to dry for several hours. Keep them in a dry place. They are a pretty sweetmeat. TO PARCH ALMONDS Take 1 pound of sugar, make a thick syrup, then put in f pound of blanched almonds ; keep them stir- ring until they are dry and crisp. Then put them in a box and keep them dry. TO MAKE ALMOND WAFERS Boil 1 pound of granulated sugar until it makes a thin candy ; have ready ^ pound of blanched almonds, pounded fine with a little rose- or orange-water, the juice of 1 lemon, the peel of 2 lemons grated into the juice; put the ingredients together and stir over a gentle fire until the sugar is well melted, but do not let come to a boil after the lemon is in. Spread on dishes, and when it is cool cut into whatever form you please. TO CANDY ANGELICA Take angelica that is young, cut it in the desired lengths, and boil it until it is pretty tender, keeping Candies and Conserves 299 it close covered. Take it up and peel off the strings ; then put it on again and let it simmer until it is very green. Drain, dry it with a cloth and allow to every pound of angelica 1 pound of sugar; put the an- gelica in an earthen bowl, cover with the sugar and let it stand 2 days, then boil it till it looks very clear, put it in a colander to drain the syrup from it. Set it on a plate and sprinkle with granulated sugar. Dry in a slow oven. TO MAKE APRICOT CHIPS Pare the apricots and divide them in the middle, remove the stone, cut them crosswise very thin, as you cut them sprinkle with a little sugar; then set them on the fire and let them stew ^ hour, take them off, cover them up, and let them stand until next day ; then set them on the stove and let them cook an- other i hour, take them out one by one and lay them on platters, strew sugar on them; dry them in a cool oven, turning them often, or in the sun. When dry put them in boxes. TO DRY APRICOTS LIKE PRUNELLOS Take a pound of apricots, cut in halves or quarters, let them boil until they are very tender in a thin syrup ; let them stand a day two on the stove, 300 The New England Cook Book take them out of the sjrup and let them dry in the sun ; then box them and keep in a dry place. BARLEY SUGAR Clarify 3 pounds of refined sugar, boil it until it cracks when a spoonful is dipped into cold water; squeeze in a small teaspoonful of the juice, or 4 drops of the essence of lemon, and let boil up once or twice; set it by a few minutes; have ready a mar- ble slab or smooth stone, rubbed over with sweet oil, pour over the sugar, cut into long strips with a large pair of scissors ; twist it a little and when cold keep it from the air in tin boxes or canisters. A few drops of essence of ginger instead of lemon will make what is called ginger barley sugar. BARLEY SUGAR DROPS To be made as the last recipe. Have ready by the time the sugar is boiled sufficiently, a large sheet of paper, with a smooth layer of sifted loaf sugar on it, put the boiled sugar in a ladle that has a fine lip ; pour it out in drops not larger than a shilling. When cold, fold them up separately in white paper. Candies and Conserves 301 TO CONSERVE CHERRIES Take large cherries, not too ripe, pick off the stalks, and take out the stones. To 3 pounds of cherries allow 3 pints of clarified sugar. Boil the sugar until it is a thick syrup, add more sugar and boil until it is thick, put the cherries in and boil them 5 minutes ; let them stand in the syrup until the fol- lowing day. Repeat the boiling 2 more days, drain and lay them in a wire sieve to dry. Keep in boxes lined with paraffine paper. CHOCOLATE CARAMELS (1) 3 pounds of brown sugar, ^ pound of chocolate, 1 cup of milk, 1 heaping tablespoonful of butter, 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Put all materials together except vanilla and cook slowly, stirring often until it boils. Boil rapidly, stirring very often until the mixture forms a smooth, even coating over the spoon. Remove from the stove, add vanilla and beat vigorously until quite thick, turn into greased pans and mark into square blocks when cool. 802 The New England Cook Book CHOCOLATE CARAMELS (2) 1 cup of molasses, 2 cups sugar, 1 cup milk, ^ pound chocolate. Boil W minutes. CHOCOLATE CREAM CANDY Chocolate, scraped fine, ^ ounce; thick cream, 1 pint; best sugar, 3 ounces; heat it nearly to boiling, then remove it from the fire, and mill it well. When cold, add the whites of 4 or 5 eggs; whisk rapidly and take up the froth on a sieve ; serve the cream in glasses, and pile up the froth on top of them. CHOCOLATE CREAMS To the white of an egg add an equal quantity of cream. Stir in 1 pound of confectioners' sugar. Flavor with vanilla and stir with the hand until fine, then mold into small balls and drop into melted choco- late. Candies and Conserves 303 CHOCOLATE DROPS Scrape some of the best chocolate, and mix it with powdered white sugar. Moisten it with a httle water so as to make a paste. Work it on a plate with a knife. Then boil it in a pan with a lip, and pour it, a drop at a time, into a cold tin plate. While moist, sprinkle colored sugar-sand over the surface of each chocolate drop. When they are hardened remove from the tin by slipping under them the point of a knife. COCOANUT CANDY J pound of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of water. Boil together. ^ pound of grated cocoanut. Stir until boiled to a flake. Put in buttered tins and cut in squares when cold. CREAM CAND¥; One pint of granulated sugar, ^ pint of water, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil as molasses candy, do not stir. Work in vanilla as you pull it. 304 The New England Cook Book EVERTON TAFFY CANDY (1) To make this favorite and wholesome candy, take H pounds of moist sugar, 3 ounces of butter, 1 tea- cupful of water, and 1 lemon. Boil the sugar, but- ter, water and half the rind of the lemon together, and when done, which will be known by dropping into cold water, when it should be quite crisp ; let it stand aside until the boiling has ceased, and then stir in the juice of the lemon. Butter a dish, and pour it in about ^ inch in thickness. The fire must be quick, and the taffy stirred all the time. EVERTON TAFFY CANDY (2) 1^ pounds brown sugar, 3 ounces of butter, •J teacupful of cold water. Boil all together with the rind of 1 lemon, adding the juice when done. FIG CANDY Take 1 pound of sugar and 1 pint of water, and set over a slow fire. When done, add a few drops of vinegar and a lump of butter, and put into pans in which split figs are laid. Candies and Conserves 305 TOMATO FIGS Allow ^ pound of coffee sugar to every pound of tomatoes (yellow plum tomatoes or very small red ones). Put just enough water with sugar to melt it. When it boils put in tomatoes with skins on. Let them simmer gently until transparent (about 2 hours). Skim out carefully and drain off all syrup. Spread on platter to dry in sun ; sprinkle a little sugar over them while drying; do so for % or 3 days. Pack in boxes. (7 pounds tomatoes, % quarts figs.) TO CANDY FLOWERS Gather your flowers when dry, cut off the leaves as far as the color is good. Boil sugar and water to a thick syrup, put in your flowers — primroses, violets, cowslips, or borage — or whatever they may be, take them out as quickly as you can with as lit- tle of the syrup as possible, spread them on a warm dish over a gentle fire to allow the syrup to drain from them. When they have drained sufficiently re- move to another warm dish and sprinkle with granu- lated sugar. Then rub the flowers gently with your hands to open the leaves, sprinkling them every now and then with more sugar, until they are thoroughly open and dry. Then place them in a colander and 306 The New England Cook Booh sift the sugar from them. Keep in a box hned with parafiine paper in a dry place. Rosemary flowers must be put whole into the syrup ; young mint leaves you must open with your fingers; but rub all blossoms with the hands as directed. TO CANDY ANY SORT OF FLOWERS Take your flowers and pick them from the white part; then take fine sugar and boil it candy high, boil as much as you think will receive the quantity of flowers you do ; then put in the flowers, and stir them about until you see the sugar candy well about them, and keep them stirring until they are cold in the pan you candied them in; then sift the loose sugar from them and keep them in boxes very dry. TOMAKECANDYCAKESOF FLOWERS Boil the syrup until it candies, then- strew in your flowers, let them come up to a boil, then scatter in a little granulated sugar, then as quickly as possible pour into little shaped pans or boxes of cardboard, the bottom of which has been pricked with holes. Set aside to cool. Candies and Conserves 307 FONDANT 2 cups granulated sugar, f cup hot water, \ teaspoonful cream tartar. Mix, heat slowly, stirring until all sugar has dis- solved, no longer; then with a sponge wash the crys- tals from the side of the pan, using care to keep them from shaking the sugar. Boil rapidly until 236° F. are reached, washing the crystal of sugar from the side of the pan as they form. When many bub- bles rise to the surface, begin to test it by dipping the fingers into very cold water, then into the boil- ing syrup and then back to the water. If a small ball forms between the fingers then it is ready. With- out jarring the pan turn into a greased dish and set in a cold place. When it is cold enough to bear the finger beat with a wooden spoon until a thick white mass is made, then knead as for bread, using confec- tioners' sugar (4X) in place of flour. Put into a dish, cover with damp cheesecloth and set away until next day. Flavor and color to suit the taste. FRUIT CANDY Take 1 pound of the best loaf sugar; dip each lump into a bowl of water, and put the sugar into your preserving kettle. Boil it down and skim it un- 308 The New England Cook Book til it is perfectly clear, and in a candying state. When sufficiently boiled, have ready the fruits you wish to preserve. Large white grapes, oranges sep- arated into very small pieces, or preserved fruits, taken out of their syrup and dried, are very nice. Dip the fi-uits into the prepared sugar while it is hot; put them in a cold place, and they will soon be- come hard. CANDIED FRUIT Peal and stone plums, peaches, or cherries. Have ready a thick syrup, made by boiling together 1 pound of sugar and 1 cup of water. (This is the preparation.) Put in the fruit and boil very slowly until tender. Do not leave it on the stove after this ; it would spoil the shape of the fruit. Set away the preserving kettle just as it is in a cool place. Leave the fruit in the syrup for 2 days to absorb it. Then take out the pieces and drain them. Sprinkle each one thickly with granulated sugar, covering every side. Pack in pasteboard boxes, with paper laid between, before which lay on clean paper and set in the air to dry, but not in the sun. Keep in a cool place. Candies and Conserves 309 TO CANDY ANY FRUIT After 3 ou have preserved your fruit dip them sud- denly into warm water to take off the syrup. Cover with granulated sugar, then place them in a sieve, in a warm oven, turn them 2 or 3 times. When they are dry remove to a cold, dry place. FRUIT IN SUGAR COATS Prepare some of the best loaf sugar powdered as fine as possible. Dip in white of ^gg some of the best and largest plums, cherries, strawberries, rasp- berries, apricots, or other suitable fruit, then roll it in the powdered sugar. Lay it in a dish and set in a cool oven to harden. MARSHMALLOW FUDGE 2 cups of sugar, ^ cup of milk, A large piece of butter. When these three boil, add 2^ squares of chocolate, and boil for 5 min- utes, stirring. After taking from the stove, add 1 teaspoon ful of vanilla, and about -J pound of marshmallows, one at a time. 310 The Neiv England Cook Book GREEN GAGES PRESERVED IN SYRUP Take the gages when nearly ripe, cut the stalks about ^ mch from the fruit; put the fruit into cold water with a lump of alum about the size of a wal- nut, and set them on a slow fire until they come to a simmer; take them from the fire and put them in cold water, drain and pack them close in a pre- serving pan. Pour over them enough clarified sugar to cover them, simmer them 2 or 3 minutes, set them by in an earthen pan until the next day; drain the gages and boil the syinip with more sugar until quite thick, put in the syrup and simmer 3 minutes more, repeat this each day for 2 days. Boil clar- ified sugar until it is very thick, place the gages in glasses and pour the sugar over them. Or, drain and dry them, in a wire sieve in a slow oven. Apricots or egg plums may be done the same way. GINGER CANDY Boil a pint of clarified sugar until, upon taking out a drop of it on a piece of stick, it will become brittle when cold. Mix and stir up with it, for a common article, about 1 teaspoonful of ground gin- ger. If for a superior article, instead of the ground ginger, add the white of an egg, beaten up previ- Candies and Conserves 311 ouslj with fine sifted loaf sugar, and 20 drops of the strong essence of ginger. GINGER LOZENGE CANDY Dissolve in \ pint of hot water, 1 ounce of gum arabic; when cold stir it up with If pounds of loaf sugar, and a teaspoonful of powdered ginger, or 12 drops of essence of ginger. Roll and beat the whole up into a paste; make it into a flat cake, and punch out the lozenges with the round stamp. Dry them near the fire or in an oven. LEMON CANDY Take 3 pounds of coarse, brown sugar; add to it 3 teacupfuls of water, and set it over a slow fire ^ hour; put to it a little gum arabic, dissolved in hot water; this is to clear it. Continue to take off the scum as long as any rises. When perfectly clear, try it by dripping a pipestem first into it and then into cold water, or by taking a teaspoonful of it into a saucer; if it is done it will snap like glass. Flavor with the essence of lemon, and cut it into sticks. LEMON CHIPS Take large smooth-rind lemons, cut off their peel in chips, throw the rind in salted water and let stand 312 The New England Cook Book until the next day ; have ready a pan of boiling water, throw in the chips and boil until tender. Drain them well, and when cool put them in an earthen dish, with enough boiling clarified sugar to cover them. Let them stand 2 days, then strain the syrup, add more sugar and reduce it by boil- ing until it is quite thick ; then put in the chips, and simmer them a few minutes ; then set them by for 2 days; repeat this once more and after 2 more days in the syrup they will be fit to candy, which must be done as follows : Take 4 pints of clarified sugar, which will be suf- ficient for 6 pounds of chips; boil it until after dipping the skimmer into the sugar and by blowing strongly through the holes little bubbles will be formed, and when the chips are thoroughly drained and wiped on a clean cloth, put them in the syrup, stirring them about with the skimmer, till you see the sugar becomes white ; then take them out with 2 forks, shake them lightly into a wire sieve, and set them in warm place to dry. LEMON DROPS Dip 1 pound of loaf sugar in water, boil it thick, take it off, rub it with the back of a silver spoon to the side of your pan, th.cn grate in some lemon-peel, boil it up and drop it on paper. If you want it red put in a little coclilneal. Candies and Conserves 313 MAPLE SUGAR CANDY WITH NUTS Break 1 pound of maple sugar into small bits and stir into 1 pint of milk. Put into a double boiler and cook until the sugar is melted. Set the inside boiler right on the stove and boil, stirring steadily, until a little of the mixture dropped into cold water is brittle. Add a tablespoonful of butter, take from the fire, add a cup of broken nut meats, beat hard for a minute, turn into greased pans and mark off into squares. TO MAKE MARCHPANE UNBOILED Take 1 pound of almonds, blanch them and beat them in rose-water. When they are finely beaten, put to them ^ pound of sugar, and work it to a paste ; spread some on wafers and dry it in the oven. When it is cold have ready the white of an egg beaten with rose-water and granulated sugar. Let it be as thick as butter, then drain your marchpane through it, and put it in the oven. It will ice in a lit- tle time. Then keep them for use. If you have a mind to have j^our marchpane large, cut it, when it is rolled out, by a pewterplate, and edge it about the top like a tart, and set it in the oven, and ice it aforesaid. When the icing rises, take it 314 The New England Cook Book out, and strew colored comfits on it, or serve sweet- meats on it. MARRONS GLACES Choose large chestnuts; boil them until they are tender. Remove the skin carefully so as not to break the chestnut; put them at once into cold water and let them stand for ^ hour; then drain the chestnuts. Have ready a syrup of sugar and water and pour it over the fruit. Let them stand over night. The next day strain off the syrup and boil it again for a few minutes ; pour it over the chestnuts. Repeat this operation every 24 hours for 4 days. Drain, place on a platter covered with paraffine paper and let dry in a slow oven. MOLASSES CANDY (1) Two cups of molasses, 1 of sugar, 1 tablespoon- ful of vinegar, a piece of butter the size of walnut. Boil constantly for 20 minutes, stirring all the time; when cool enough to pull, do it quickly, as it will come white rapidly. MOLASSES CANDY (2) Take a clean tin or porcelain kettle of large size, so that there will be no danger of boiling over; put Candies and Conserves 315 in a sufficient quantity of molasses, place it over a good fire, and boil briskly until it will be brittle when cooled, which may be known by dipping a little of it into a dish of cold water; then pour into well-but- tered pans not over 1 inch thick. Let it cool until it can be handled, then pull smartly until white. Draw out on a clean table into sticks. MOLASSES CANDY (3) 2^ cups of molasses, 1 cup of sugar, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, A piece of butter the size of a walnut. Boil 20 minutes, stirring constantly. Pull until white. NOUGAT Take J pound of sweet almonds and ^ pound of bitter almonds. Blanch them by scalding them in boiling water. Throw them into cold water and take them out and wipe them. Cut in small pieces and mix well together. Take 1 pound of loaf sugar broken small, and mix it with J pint of isinglass melted in a little liot water. Boil the sugar and skim it well. When it is quite clear, throw in your almonds, having first squeezed 816 The New England Cook Book over them the juice of 2 lemons. Stir the lemons well through the sugar; and as soon as they are all properly mixed with it take the kettle off the fire. Have ready a mold or square tin pan well greased with sweet oil. Put your mixture into it a little at a time, dispersing the almonds equally through the sugar, before it has time to get cold. But if it does chill before the almonds are well mixed in it, set it on again over the fire to melt. Turn it frequently in the molds to prevent its sticking. When it has become a hard cake, set the mold for a moment in warm water, and turn out the nougat. NUT CANDY 2 cups sugar, ^ cup milk. Boil 10 minutes ; then beat till white, adding nuts and vanilla. Spread in buttered tins and cut in squares when cold. ORANGE DROPS Grate the rind and squeeze the juice of 1 orange, taking care to reject the seeds. Add to this a pinch of tartaric acid ; then stir In confectioners' sugar un- til stiff enough to form into small balls. Candies and Conserves 317 TO MAKE ORANGE CHIPS Pare 12 oranges very thin, put the parings into cold water, then boil them very fast until they are tender. Take 1^ pounds of sugar and with part of the water in which the orange-peels were boiled, and let the sugar dissolve ; add the rinds and come to a boil ; then remove and let stand 3 or 4 days ; then boil them again until the syrup threads from the spoon. Remove from the fire and drain through a colander. Take out but a few at a time, for if they cool too fast, it is difficult to get the syrup from them, which must be done by passing every piece through your fingers. Put them on paraffine paper to dry in the sun, turn frequently. When thoroughly dry, put in boxes and keep in a dry place. TO CANDY ORANGE FLOWERS (1) Take fresh picked orange flowers, boil them until they are tender, drain, and lay them between napkins until they are quite dry. To every pound of flow- ers allow 1 pound of sugar and ^ pint of water. Boil sugar and water until it will stand in a drop. Remove from the fire, and when it is almost cold put in 3'our flowers, shake them well together, and set 818 The New England Cook Book thein on the stove or in the sun until they begin to candy, take them out, put them in glasses to dry, turning them constantly until they are dry. TO CANDY ORANGE FLOWERS (2) Add ^ pound of granulated sugar to a little or- ange-water, boil candy high, then put in a handful of orange flowers, keep stirring but do not let them boil. When the sugar candies about the flowers, re- move the fire and set aside until it is cold. TO MAKE PASTILS Take confectioners' sugar, perfume it with musk and ambergris; add enough gum arabic steeped in orange-water to make the sugar into a stiff paste ; flavor with a few drops of oil of cloves, oil of cinna- mon, or oil of peppermint; then roll them into little pellets and press with a seal. Dry them in the sun. GLACfi NUTS Let 1 pound of granulated sugar dissolve in a scant cup of cold water. Boil without stirring un- til when a little of the syrup is dropped from a spoon into cold water it becomes instantly brittle. Add two Candies and Conserves 810 tablespoonfuls of hot vinegar, remove at once from the fire and place pan in a basin of hot water. Dip in the nuts with as Httle motion as possible, so that the syrup will not granulate. Place nuts on a dish to cool. Cherries, grapes, oranges, figs, dates and prunes may be glaced in the same manner. GLACfi PEACHES Take peaches that are not quite ripe, pour on them boiling water and let them stand 4 hours. Clar- ify some sugar, allowing a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, and cook the fruit in the sugar until it is tender. Add ^ glass of rum or brandy to each pound of fruit; fill jars and seal. PEANUT BRITTLE Boil together 1 cupful each of molasses and brown sugar, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar and £ tablespoon- fuls of butter. When a little dropped into cold water is brittle, add a cupful of roasted and skinned pea- nuts, remove from the fire, beat in a teaspoonful of baking soda and pour into broad, greased tins. PEPPERMINT DROPS Take confectioners' sugar, add a little essence of peppermint and enough water to make it a thick 320 The New England Cook Book paste, which you must mix on a plate with a broad knife; then put the paste into a pan with a Hp or a little spout at one side; melt it over the fire and let it come to a boil; take it off and drop it from the lip of the pan on to a tray covered with paraffine paper. Let the drops be all of the same size or shape. As soon as cold, loosen from the paper by slipping the point of a knife under each. If the mixture congeals before the drops are all made, melt it again over the fire. Keep in glass jars. PINOCHI Take 4 cups of brown sugar of a very light color, 1 cup of cream, ^ pound of English walnuts, and A small piece of butter. Put sugar, cream and butter together, let boil slowly until the syrup forms a ball when a little is dropped into cold water. Remove from the fire and stir in the nuts ; set aside on plates to cool. POPCORN BALLS Make an old-fashioned molasses candy and just before removing from the fire stir in enough pop- corn to thicken it. Take the mixture out by the Candies and Conserves 321 spoonful and roll it just as soon as it can be handled into balls. Then roll these over and over in kernels of popped com until no more will adhere to the balls. CANDIED POPCORN Put 4 cups of granulated sugar into a kettle with enough water to prevent the sugar from burning, and add a piece of butter the size of an ^gg. Cook until the syrup is crisp when a little is dropped into cold water. Remove from the fire for the moment; put in as much popped com as the sugar will take. Put the kettle back over a slow fire, and stir briskly until the sugar is all taken up and dried and the com is again separate. CRYSTALLIZED POPCORN Pop 3 quarts of corn. In a kettle put in a heap- ing teaspoonful of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of water, a large tablespoonful of pulverized sugar. Boil until it threads, taking care not to boil too long. When the thread is reached, throw into the syrup the popped com, stir briskly until it is evenly coated, take the kettle from the fire and stir until it is cooler and each grain is crystallized with sugar. 322 The New England Cook Book PRUNE DAINTY Soak your prunes several hours. Stew them until tender, and remove the stones. Boil together 1^ cups of sugar, -| square of choco- late and f cup of milk until a thick syrup is f onned ; then add ^ cup of chopped English walnuts or pecan meats. Remove from the fire, add J teaspoonful of vanilla and beat until creamy. Fill the prunes with the mix- ture and press the edges together. Dissolve 1 ounce of gum arable in a pint of water and dip each prune in it, then in granulated sugar. Set it in a warm place to dry. TO MAKE CONSERVE OF RED ROSES Take rose buds, cut off the white part from the red. Weigh the petals and allow to every pound of flowers 2 pounds of sugar. Beat the leaves and sugar together. When it is well incorporated put it into gallipots and cover with paraffine. It will keep 7 years. TO MAKE ROSE DROPS Make a stiff paste of an ounce of dried rose leaves beaten to a fine powder and 1 pound of confectioners' Candies and Conserves 323 sugar moistened with lemon-juice. Set it over a slow fire and stir it well. When it is melted and scalding hot, take it off and drop it on paper. Set it near the fire and the next day they can be taken off. SCOTCH BUTTER CANDY Take 1 pound of sugar, and 1 pint of water ; dis- solve and boil. When done, add 1 tablespoonful of butter, and enough lemon- juice and oil of lemon to flavor. SUGARED DATES Remove the stone from the date, insert the half of a walnut, press together and roll it in powdered sugar. TO MAKE SUGAR OF ROSES Clip off all the white from the red rose buds and dry the red in the sun. To an ounce of dried petals finely powdered allow 1 pound of sugar. Wet the sugar in rose-water, boil it until it candies, then add your powder of roses and the juice of a lemon; mix it well together; pour into pie plates. Cut into lozenges, or whatever shape you please. 324 The New England Cook Book TO CLARIFY SUGAR FOR CANDIES To every pound of sugar put a large cup of water, and put it in a brass or copper kettle, over a slow fire, for ^ hour ; pour in a small quantity of isinglass and gum arabic dissolved together. This will cause all impurities to rise to the surface; skim it as it rises. Flavor according to taste. All kinds of sugar for candy are boiled as above directed. When boiling loaf sugar, add a table- spoonful of rum or vinegar, to prevent its becoming too brittle whilst making. Loaf sugar, when boiled, by pulling and making it into small rolls, and twisting a little, will make what is called rock or snow. By pulling loaf sugar after it is boiled, you can make it as white as snow. TO BOIL SUGAR CANDY HIGH Put 1 pound of sugar in a clean pan with ^ pint of water. Set it over a very clear fire, take off the scum as it rises, boil it until it looks fine and clear; then take out a little with a silver spoon; when it is cold, if it will draw a thread from your spoon, it is boiled high enough for any kind of sweetmeat; then Candies and Conserves 325 boil your syrup, and when it begins to candy round the edge of your pan it is candy height. It is a great fault to put any kind of sweetmeat into too thick a syrup, especially at first, for it with- ers jour fruit, and takes off both beauty and flavor. TAFFY Put into a pan^ or some shallow vessel, ^ pound of butter and 1 pound of brown sugar; set it upon the stove, and stir together for 15 minutes, or until a little of the mixture dropped into a basin of water will break clean between the teeth without sticking to them. Any flavoring that is desired — as lemon, pineapple, or vanilla — should be added just before the cooking is completed. The taff*y, when done, should be poured into a shallow dish, which is but- tered on the bottom and edges. By drawing a knife across it when partially cool, it can easily be broken into squares. Molasses may be used instead of sugar, but it is not so brittle. TAFFY CANDY 6 cups of white sugar, 1 cup of vinegar, 1 cup of water. Boil without stirring ^ hour. 326 The New England Cook Booh When done, stir in 1 teaspoonful of soda, dis- solved in hot water, and 1 tablespoonful of butter. Flavor with vanilla. TURKISH DELIGHT Make a clear syrup with 1 pound of loaf sugar and 1 pint of rose- or orange-flower-water, and clear it with the white of an ^^^ and the juice of ^ lemon. Dissolve 2 ounces pf finest wheat starch in 1 gill of water, let it get very smooth, strain it and add to the boiling syrup; boil it until it is quite thick and ropy. Have ready S deep plates, one brushed with olive oil and one with powdered sugar. Pour the mixture into the oiled plate, let it stand 1 or 2 minutes to cool; turn into the sugared plate, wipe off the oil that adheres to it, dust it with powdered sugar, cut into blocks, dust again with powdered sugar, and let stand till fairly dry, taking care the pieces do not stick together. COMMON TWIST CANDY Boil 3 pounds of common sugar and 1 pint of water over a slow fire for ^ hour without skimming. When boiled enough take it off; rub the hands over with butter; take that which is a little cooled and pull it, as you would molasses candy, until it is white ; then twist or braid it, and cut it up in strips. Candies and Conserves 327 ENGLISH WALNUT CREAMS Take fondant and after molding it into some- what larger balls, place an English walnut meat on either side, pressing it into the cream. Lay them in a cool place. CREAMED WALNUTS White of 1 e,^g^ 1 pound confectioners' sugar, ^ tablespoonful cold water, f teaspoonful vanilla, English walnuts. Put Qgg^ water, and vanilla in bowl, and beat un- til well blended. Add sugar gradually until stiff enough to knead; shape in balls, flatten and place halves of walnuts opposite each other on each piece. y •^^0^ 5>^"-/ «