I A X^OOD AND ANDRRkyONT Book /) <® & rqiyright^ w* 7 COPYRIGHT DEPOSm FOOD and COOKERY By H. S. ANDERSON Food Expert, Loma Linda Sanitarium, California 1917 PACIFIC PRESS PUBLISHING ASSOCIATION Mountain VievJ, California Kansas City, Mo. Portland, Ore. Brookfield, III. Calgary, Alberta, Canada Cristobal, Canal Zone TXZ9Q. .A68 \9I7. Copyright 1915 bj> THE COLLEGE PRESS Loma Linda, California Revised Fourth Edition Copyright 1917 by PACIFIC PRESS PUBLISHING ASSNJ. DEC 151917 ©CI.A481020 PUBLISHERS' PREFACE In presenting "Food and Cookery" to the public, it is not to add another cookbook to the many now in the hands of the perplexed housewives of America. This is the fourth and enlarged edition of a little work which has already made its way; and for this edition, hundreds of orders are already filed. There is a demand for the book from those who know the first editions. There is a moral demand for the in- formation it contains, in these days of world food scarcity and the need of wise food conservation, when the best food for the least money is called for. The recipes are not prepared by a tyro, nor gathered from miscellaneous collections, nor compounded merely to please the taste. The author has had a score of years of experience in every stage of cooking science and practical work, from mere helper to the chef. He has served for years under German and Swiss and Spanish and English and French chefs. For a year, he was second cook in the Calumet Club of Chicago, where he served European royalty; and for nearly the same length of time, in the California Club of Los Angeles; and he has also served in like capacity in many leading hotels in various cities. For the last ten years, Mr. Anderson has given himself to the better side of the question, — healthful, palatable, scientific, economical cookery. These recipes are all tested and tried, and retested and tried in connection with experienced chemical, medical, practical collaborators, in the Medical Missionary College and Sanitarium of Loma Linda, California, in which Mr. Anderson is food expert. In highest confidence, we send the little book forth as a friend in the homes of a larger public. (?) PREFACE In preparing this new edition of "Food and Cookery" for publication, our object has been to present a collection of simple, wholesome, and inexpensive recipes, many of which are new, together with suitable text matter on foods, and their uses in the body. This idea was suggested by the need of such a book in the training school for nurses and medical evangelists at the medical school and sani- tarium, Loma Linda, California. It is hoped that the book will be found useful in other schools, as well as in many homes where the teaching of this subject is receiving at- tention. While we have not attempted to write a treatise on vegetarianism, we do advocate the total disuse of the flesh of animals as food, and a more extensive use of grains, fruits, nuts, and other products of the vegetable kingdom, thus propagating a principle that tends essentially to true civilization, to universal humaneness, and to health and happiness generally. The history of vegetarianism is as old as human history itself; and probably in every age there have been some who have practiced it either as a religious duty, or under the belief that they would thereby conserve the life forces, and be the better fitted for the pursuit of peace and happi- ness. Again, there are those who adopt a vegetarian course of diet in the belief that many diseases, such as gout, and gastrointestinal disorders, would largely disap- pear if the vegetarian diet were strictly adhered to. An- other motive for adopting vegetarianism is undoubtedly economy. To a great extent, the human race is virtually vegetarian from necessity. Nor do we find that feebleness, either of mind or of body, necessarily ensues. Rather, ex- perience shows the opposite to be the case. (4) PREFACE 5 It has been our endeavor to make the instruction and recipes so practical that the many who are desirous of reforming their diet may do so intelligently. To such, we would say that changes in the habits of a lifetime should be gradual and progressive, as the functions of the body do not readily adjust themselves to changes that are too radical. When flesh foods are left off, digestive juices of a different character are required; but it is a matter of only a short time until the system adjusts itself to the change. It is certainly true that as. one perseveres in a non-flesh diet for a length of time, the relish for spices and condi- ments diminishes; and as these really serve to blunt the sensitiveness of the palate, there gradually comes into evi- dence, when they are discarded, a keener discernment of the rarer and more delicate natural flavors, which are quite inappreciable to the taste accustomed to highly sea- soned foods. One mistake to be avoided, however, is the opposite extreme. Food should never be served savorless and insipid. As one has expressed it, "When the goodman comes in expecting the usual roast mutton or kidney stew, do not set before him a dish of mushy barley or sodden beans." There is at command a variety of vegetarian dishes, practically unlimited, and savory enough to tempt the most fastidious. The most common error of those who have eschewed flesh products, is that, having developed the taste for natu- ral foods, they are inclined to overeat. Many labor under the delusion that because they have discontinued the use of the more harmful articles of diet, they are licensed to eat all their appetite calls for. Soon they observe symp- toms of intestinal indigestion, and attribute it to their hav- ing adopted the diet reform. The secret of success in avoiding this error is thorough mastication, and the eating of only a few kinds of food at one meal. The benefit de- 6 PREFACE rived from food does not depend so much on the quantity eaten as on its thorough digestion and assimilation. Therefore if the time in which to eat is limited, the amount eaten should be proportionately limited. The author gratefully acknowledges the valuable as- sistance of Dr. Lavina Herzer in the work of perfecting new recipes for this book; and of Mrs. J. J. Weir, long an associate teacher, in her contribution of new recipes; also of various sanitarium chefs and teachers, and energetic housewives, who have contributed both recipes and valu- able subject matter for this work. To know that the information contained herein will be the means of helping some others to the "more excellent way" will be reward sufficient for the author. H. S. A. CONTENTS Foods, Their Uses in the Body 9 Adaptation of Food Food Principles Balancing the Food Table of Food Values Natural Food of Man 18 Vegetable and Flesh Foods Contrasted Food Economy - 23 Table of Food Economy Practical Hints Food Preparation 27 Objects Sought in Cookix.; Principles of Successful Cookery Free Fats in Cooking Combinations and Menu Making 34 Planning the Meal Simple Menus Table of Food Composition Course of Cooking Lessons 44 Lesson Outline Essentials to Success Table of Measures Miscellaneous Recipes 48 Pasteurized Milk Buttermilk Bread ._ . _ 54 Unfermented Batter Breads Unfermented Dough Breads Fermented Breads Principles of Bread Making Baking Soups 74 Grains, Nut Foods, Entrees - - - - 80 Legumes (7) 8 CONTENTS Gravies and Sauces 95 Vegetables -- 98 Desserts 110 Dried Fruits Puddings Pies Cakes Icings and Fillings Salads and Dressings 126 Dressings Vegetable Salads Fruit Salads Toasts and Breakfast Dishes 134 Sandwiches ---------- 140 Cookery for the Sick - 142 Fruit Ices and Ice Cream 147 Home Canning - 149 Phinciples of Canning Preservation in Salt Fruit Canning Jelly Making FOODS THEIR USES IN THE BODY The problem of securing ample nutrition for the family board, and at a minimum cost, is one of growing impor- tance, not only because of the high cost of food, but be- cause more and more we are coming to realize that a healthy body is man's greatest asset. In the support and maintenance of life, the first and most essential factor is the substance upon which it feeds. There is probably no other thing over which we have con- trol, that produces so marked an influence over the body as the food we eat. Animals in their natural state seem to put the proper appreciation upon foods, in that they reject that which is harmful, and accept that as food which is good for them. Instinct should guide us to some extent in the choice of foods best suited to our own ne- cessities; but civilization has created for man certain artificial environments, habits, and appetites, in the con- fusion of which his instincts are largely lost. The grains, fruits, and vegetables have all the nutritive properties necessary for our existence. These, when pre- pared in a simple yet appetizing manner, will soon become extremely delicious and satisfying to the taste, so that the appetite will demand no other. When this condition is attained, foods begin to perform their natural functions, imparting to the body their latent powers, supplying with life and strength each nerve, muscle, and tissue. All life must comply with certain unchangeable laws in order to be free. A man who succumbs to disease is not free, but in bondage. Disease is the outward expression or penalty of violated laws. Health is Nature's reward for conformity to her laws, and is that condition where the powers of construction excel the powers of destruction — in (9) 10 FOOD AND COOKERY other words, the maintenance of the bodily resistance at so high a level that should we be unable to avoid contact with disease, it would not be likely to affect us. By cor- rect eating and the pursuit of natural habits, this condi- tion can be maintained for many years. ADAPTATION OF FOOD The true function of food is to furnish material for the growth and repair of the body, to supply energy for muscu- lar work, and to furnish heat to keep the body warm. The diet that will secure this end necessarily varies with circumstances, depending largely upon the occupation of the individual, the climate in which he lives, and the sea- son of the year. Some foods that are adapted for use at one season or in one climate are not suited to another. So there are different foods best suited to persons of different occupations. Often food that can be used with benefit by those engaged in hard physical labor is unsuitable for persons of sedentary habit. In cold weather, we feed our furnaces to keep our houses warm; in warm weather, less fuel is used. The human body corresponds to a house; but people not uncommonly make the mistake of eating the same foods in warm weather, and in the same quantities, that they consume in cold weather. The result is a lack of energy, due to the clogging of the body furnace with excess of fuel, and not, as supposed, to insufficient food. In warm weather, the digestive organs cannot digest the same quantity nor the same kinds of food that they are capable of digesting in cold weather. Wisely, therefore, with the return of sum- mer, Nature takes away the desire for many of the solid foods, such as beans, lentils, eggs, fats, or heat-producing foods, and furnishes us with greens, fresh fruits and vege- tables, which are appetizing and cooling to the system. FOOD AND COOKERY 11 FOOD PRINCIPLES Tn order that it may be understood just what is meant by food principles, we may say they are six: water, fats, carbohydrates, proteins, mineral matters, and vitamines. Each has a different use in the body, and is necessary in a varied diet, though we require larger quantities of some than of others. Water constitutes two thirds of the weight of the body, and enters into the composition of all the tissues and fluids. In one sense, however, water is not a food, for it tends neither to build up nor to furnish heat and energy to the body; yet it is perhaps the most essential of all elements. Life can be sustained for a much longer period of time without food than without water. Fat is called a fuel food, because of its power to give heat to the body. Fats are divided into two forms, free fats and emulsified fats. Examples of free fat are butter and other solid fats, and oils, both animal and vegetable. Examples of emulsified fats are found in nearly all vege- tables, especially in olives and nuts, and in milk and cream. The purest free fats are olive oil, corn oil, coconut oil, re- fined cottonseed oil, and peanut oil. These wholesome fats, so abundantly furnished in Nature's great store, exclude the need of animal oils and fats. Carbohydrates are represented by the starches and sug- ars in various foods. For instance, grains, such as rice, corn, wheat, rye, oatmeal, buckwheat, etc., have an average of from seventy to eighty per cent starch; while dried fruits, such as raisins, prunes, dates, figs, rich in fruit sugar, contain an average of from seventy to eighty per cent carbohydrate. Both fats and carbohydrates furnish fuel for the body. They yield the heat that keeps it warm, and the energy that enables it to work. Protein, or nitrogenous substances, are represented by the casein in milk, the curd being very highly nitrogenous; 12 FOOD AND COOKERY the gluten of wheat; the albumen in the white of egg, it being the purest form of protein ; the legumin in peas and beans; and the myosin of lean meat. The chief office of protein is to provide for the growth and repair of the muscle tissues of the body. Mineral Matter and Vitamines are found in all natural foods, especially in the hulls and outer layers of grain, and in fresh vegetables and fruits. Mineral substances are used by the body to build the bones and the teeth, and to aid in the digestion. Vitamines are substances of unknown composition, which are essential to normal metabolism, and the lack of which in a dietary causes beriberi and other deficiency diseases. Rice, one of our best known foods, is wholesome arid nourishing; but if we remove the hulls, as is done in pol- ishing, it loses its food value. Pigeons or chickens fed exclusively on polished rice quickly develop paralysis and die; but if the polishings are given them after they begin to be ailing, they grow well and strong. The reason is that the life-giving vitamines are in the coatings of the grain. Dr. Casimir Funk, as quoted in the Journal of the Ameri- can Medical Association, May 20, 1916, on the subject of "Vitamines a New Factor in Nutrition," says in part: "Besides the ordinary food constituents, such as pro- teins, fats, carbohydrates, lipoids, and inorganic salts, to which the value of our food is due, a number of substances can be found in small quantities which are as indispensable to life as the former constituents. These substances I have designated 'vitamines,' and the diseases which arise from their lack, as deficiency diseases or 'avitaminoses.' ... A certain amount of vitamine can take care of only a limited amount of carbohydrate; and when starch is increased in the diet, the amount of vitamine-containing foodstuffs must be increased in proportion." FOOD AND COOKERY 13 "A second fact has been established in connection with the metabolism in the deficiency diseases, which is that in the absence of vitamine, we not only obtain a negative nitrogen balance, but the whole metabolism goes wrong. This is particularly noticed in the negative balance of in- organic constituents. The addition of vitamine puts the whole metabolism again on a normal basis. Vitamine, when properly prepared and added to a diet of polished rice, makes that diet complete. I have shown that no animal has yet been found able to live more than a short time on a vitamine-free food." Fruits, because of their low nutritive qualities, are not as a rule estimated at their real value as food. Either fresh or cooked, they have a great dietetic value, and should be used generously and wisely. Fruits and fruit juices keep the blood in a healthy condition ; they supply a variety of flavors, acids, sugar, and a necessary waste or bulky material for aiding in intestinal movement. These vege- table acids and essential oils impart palatability to the food, and assist functionally in the digestive process. BALANCING THE FOOD The calorie is the unit measure of heat used to denote the energy-giving power of food, and is equivalent to the amount of heat necessary to raise the temperature of one kilogram of water one degree centigrade, or about one pint of water four degrees Fahrenheit. The following general estimate has been made for the energy furnished to the body by one gram of each of the classes of nutrients : 1 gram* protein yields 4 calories of fuel value. 1 gram carbohydrate yields 4 calories of fuel value. 1 gram of fat yields 9 calories of fuel value. — Bulletin No. H2, United States Department of Agri- culture. J8.3 grams equal 1 ounce. 14 FOOD AND COOKERY By the figures in the column at the right hand of the chart (page 15) is represented the total number of calories or food units contained in one pound of the various foods under consideration, the building material (protein) being represented by the diagonal lines, the fats by the dotted space, and the carbohydrates by the crosshatching, etc. The vital part of all muscle tissue is protein. Every living cell requires its due allowance, for the wear and tear of tissue must be made good. While there is perhaps no article of diet except sugar and pure fat into which pro- tein does not enter to a greater or lesser degree, yet there are foods that contain an unusually high percentage of protein, known as protein foods. These are the dried peas, beans, lentils, eggs, nuts, and meat. Although protein, when oxidized in the body, is capable of yielding a certain amount of heat, it is inferior for this purpose to carbohydrates and fats, because, on being burned in the body, it also yields certain deleterious products, which throw upon the liver and the kidneys an unnecessary amount of labor, thus weakening them and rendering them more susceptible to the attacks of dkoase. Many of the ailments so prevalent to-day, such as rheuma- tism, gout, gastrointestinal disturbances, indigestion, and liver troubles, have been found to be closely associated with the habitual overeating of protein foods. The fact that protein is absolutely essential for the growth and repair of the body — there being no other food principle that can take its place in furnishing muscle- building material — has a tendency to lead people to believe that they might be benefited by the consumption of large quantities of protein foods, when the fact is that the body can use only a limited amount for the development and repair of tissue. There is wisdom in a diet that shall provide an abun- dance of carbohydrates and fats, protein being added only in sufficient amounts to meet the needs of the body for ) FOOD VALUES _ . f Nitrogenous 0rga " ,C lNon Min. Matter nitrogenous Inorganic Salts Water Protein PROTEIN Tissue-forming Substances CARBOHYDRATES l u , , r FATS | Heat and Energy Mineral Matters, Water Carbohydrate {■ : ""j OLIVE OIL BUTTER flg OLIVES, ripe 1,1 j. | SALMON [; J ■ MUTTON, leg I \ 1 BEEF, round lean I fill , fl EGGS I I MILK 11 K".- | BANANAS tif B POTATOES n SQUASH CARROTS m 730 720 325 460 450 290 240 1400 1605 470 465 385 215 210 16 FOOD AND COOKERY nitrogen, and for the growth of fresh muscle fibers. Care- ful experiments have demonstrated that the body is best sustained in health, and its strength and endurance pro- moted, by a diet which contains a proportion of about one ounce of protein to nine ounces of carbohydrates and fats. In an approximate day's ration of 2,500 calories, ten per cent, or about 250 calories, should be protein. The re- mainder of the diet, say ninety per cent of the calories, may be divided according to individual need or personal preference, between carbohydrates and fats, provided some amount of each is used. About twenty-five per cent fat and sixty-five per cent carbohydrates is considered a good proportion. A new book entitled "How to Live," by Irving Fisher, professor of political economy, of Yale University, and Eugene Lyman Fisk, M. D., medical director of. the insti- tute, gives the following valuable suggestions, on pages 36-38, as to the protein requirement in a day's ration: "Foods should be so selected as to give the ration the right amount of protein, or repair foods, on the one hand, and of fats and carbohydrates, or fuel foods, on the other. A certain amount of protein is absolutely es- sential. . . . The right proportion of protein has been the subject of much controversy. According to what are regarded as the best investigations, it is generally about ten per cent of the total number of heat units consumed. This does not, of course, mean ten per cent of the total weight, nor ten per cent of the total bulk, but ten per cent of the total nutriment; that is, ten calories of protein out of every one hundred calories of food." "Most persons in America eat much more protein than this. But that ten calories out of one hundred is not toe small an allowance is evidenced by the analysis of human milk. The growing infant needs the maximum proportion of protein. . . . Consequently an analysis of human mother's milk affords a clue to the maximum protein suit- FOOD AND COOKERY 17 able for human beings. Of this milk, seven calories out of every one hundred calories are protein. If all protein were as thoroughly utilized as milk protein or meat pro- tein, seven calories out of one hundred would be ample; but all vegetable proteins are not so completely available. Making proper allowance for this fact, we reach the con- clusion that ten calories out of every one hundred are sufficient." A study of the composition of food materials will enable us to see the wise provision made for man in the diet ap- pointed for him in the beginning. Natural foods, just as they come from field and orchard, when taken in proper combination with each other, contain the different food elements balanced in about the • right proportion to meet the needs of the body. The various grains contain the food elements in quanti- ties more nearly proportionate than any other foods. Wheat is regarded as a perfect food, and the representa- tive of all foods, containing properties that so nearly represent the constituent parts of the body structure as to indicate a special providence in its being provided for the human family. Bread (entire wheat) is rightly called "the staff of life," and from time immemorial, has consti- tuted the principal article of diet among all nations and in all climes. As a tissue builder, bread contains a pro- portion of about ten per cent protein, the recognized diet- ary requirement. Bread of some kind, therefore, furnishes the basis, or "backbone," for the meal, suitable variety being provided by the addition of fruits and vegetables in season, alter- nating from day to day with one of the more solid foods, rich in protein, such as noodles, beans, macaroni, or other entree as needed. With the addition of varying quantities of milk, cream, and eggs, the problem of balancing the food is not a difficult one, but a real pleasure. NATURAL FOOD OF MAN In order to understand what are the best foods, we must study God's original plan for man's diet. He who created man, and who understands his needs, appointed Adam his food, as it is written : "Behold, I have given you every herb yielding seed, . . . and every tree, in which is the fruit of a tree yielding seed ; to you it shall be for food." Gene- sis 1:29, A. R. V.. After the fall, when the ground was cursed for man's sake, the herb of the field was added to his diet. Genesis 3: 17, 18. After the Flood, when all vegetation had been destroyed by water, God permitted man to eat flesh. Gene- sis 9: 3, 4. It is interesting at this point to note the comparison of the length of life of men who lived before the Flood, and who subsisted upon fruits and grains, with that of the generations living immediately after the Flood, who sub- sisted upon the flesh of animals, at least as part of their daily food. The following figures show that the average length of life for nine generations before the Flood, as recorded in Genesis 5 : 3-32 ; 9 : 29, was 912 years. The average for nine generations after the Flood, when flesh meats were used as food, was but 332 years. Genesis 11: 10-32. Before the Flood After the Flood NAME AGE NAME # AGE Adam 930 Shem 600 Seth 912 Arphaxad 438 Enos 905 Salah 433 Cainan 910 Eber 464 Mahalaleel 895 Peleg 239 Jared 962 Reu 239 Methuselah 969 Serug 230 Lamech 777 Nahor 148 Noah 950 Terah 205 Average — 912 years Average — 332 years (18) FOOD AND COOKERY 19 "And Haran died before his father Terah in the land of his nativity." Genesis 11 : 28. One would infer, from this scripture, that until about the tenth generation after the Flood, it was so unusual a thing for a child to die before its father, that mention is made of the fact in Holy Writ. Following on, we briefly trace the history of the chosen people in their march down into Egypt, where they came under heavy bondage to the Egyptians until the time of their deliverance. When the prophetic period had expired, and the time for their release had come, God brought them out with a strong hand, to make them the deposi- taries of the Holy Oracles, and His peculiar treasure above all people. Through them, it was designed that all the world should come to a knowledge of the true God. Their health was jealously guarded, and a fleshless diet was given them. Exodus 16: 35; Joshua 5: 12. But they despised "the corn of heaven," and cried for flesh; so He permitted them to eat clean flesh. Numbers 11:4-6; Deuteronomy 14: 3-20. Coming down the stream of time, we find the average length of life growing shorter and shorter, until, in the time of David, the years of man were said to be only "threescore and ten" — an evidence that the race was not benefited in the least by a diet of flesh. Later, in apostolic days, when the gospel was preached to the gentiles, the message of physical holiness was again proclaimed as a part of the gospel of salvation, in the words : "Ye are the temple of God. ... If any man defile the temple of God, him shall God destroy ; for the temple of God is holy, which temple ye are." 1 Corinthians 3: 16, 17. Then follows the statement of a great principle, de- fining the motive which should actuate the recipients of grace in the exercise of Christian temperance in all things, and which will prove a safe guide to follow in the selec- tion of the kind and quantity of food best suited to the 20 FOOD AND COOKERY keeping of the body in a state of health: "Whether there- fore ye eat, or drink, or whatsoever ye do, do all to the glory of God." 1 Corinthians 10: 31. This principle, if heeded, will control in all matters per- taining to the diet, as in every act of life, preserving us from intemperance in all its varied forms. "Every prac- tice which destroys the physical, mental, and spiritual energies is sin. The laws of nature, as truly as the pre- cepts of the Decalogue, are divine; and only in obedience to them can health be recovered and preserved." The desire of God for every human being is expressed in the words, "Beloved, I wish above all things that thou mayest prosper and be in health, even as thy soul pros- pereth." 3 John 2. Here, as ever, inspiration places the health of the body on an equality with the health of the soul, as indeed they are dependent one upon the other. To the chosen people, the laws relating to both spiritual and physical well-being were made plain; and on condi- tion of obedience, He assured them: "The Lord will take away from thee all sickness." Deuteronomy 7: 15. "Ye shall serve the Lord your God, and He shall bless thy bread, and thy water; and I will take sickness away from the midst of thee." Exodus 23:25. These promises are alike for us to-day; and it is the privilege of every child of God, through obedience, to know the meaning of His promise, "I am the Lord that healeth thee." Exodus 15 : 26. VEGETABLE AND FLESH FOODS CONTEASTED In their growth, vegetable foods secrete no poisons; whereas in all animals, the very processes of life itself consist of the breaking down of tissue and the formation of numerous poisons. These poisons are in the flesh when the animal is killed, and no amount of cooking can remove them. By taking food of vegetable origin, we avoid bur- dening the system with this quantity of harmful sub- FOOD AND COOKERY 21 stances, which must be disposed of at a great sacrifice to the eliminative organs. Though we allow that animal products all contain a share of the nutritive constituents necessary for our ex- istence, because the animal has taken sustenance from the vegetable kingdom, nevertheless, when we eat flesh, we are but eating vegetables and grains at second hand. The life that was in the vegetable passes into the eater ; and though we may receive it in part, by eating the flesh of the ani- mal, how much better to get it direct, by eating the food that God provided for our use! In other words, the ox eats ten pounds of corn, and burns up from eight to nine pounds in making one pound of flesh. Many ashes result from this process, and these waste products (toxins) are responsible for a large share of the mischief caused by meat eating. "Animal food, which we use and abuse, is not food, but continuous poi- soning." — Huchard. The process by which meat is made tender (ripe), is nothing but waiting for partial decomposition. During that time, insidious poisons have developed, and are added to those already present during life. This is not true of foods from the vegetable kingdom. These harbor within themselves the very essence of life, manifest in the tiny organ of reproduction, and if hidden in the earth, will soon give proof of life within. This assures us of the purity and freedom from putrefaction and poisons of the food that is to build bone and sinew. Since many people have the impression that physical strength and health are dependent upon the use of animal food, we give the following quotation from "Ministry of Healing," by Ellen G. White, page 316, which throws much light on this important question, pointing out the advan- tages to be gained by the use of a simple and natural diet : "It is a mistake to suppose that muscular strength de- pends on the use of animal food. The needs of the system 22 FOOD AND COOKERY can be better supplied, and more vigorous health can be enjoyed, without its use. The grains, with fruits, nuts, and vegetables, contain all the nutritive properties neces- sary to make good blood. These elements are not so well or so fully supplied by a flesh diet. Had the use of flesh been essential to health and strength, animal food would have been included in the diet appointed man in the be- ginning. "When the use of flesh food is discontinued, there is often a sense of weakness, a lack of vigor. Many urge this as evidence that flesh food is essential; but it is be- cause foods of this class are stimulating, because they fever the blood and excite the nerves, that they are so missed. Some will find it as difficult to leave off flesh eating as it is for the drunkard to give up his dram; but they will be the better for the change. "When flesh food is discarded, its place should be sup- plied with a variety of grains, nuts, vegetables, and fruits, that will be both nourishing and appetizing." Dr. Alexander Haig, a noted physician of London, in his book "Uric Acid as a Factor in the Causation of Die- ease," on page 864, writes as follows: "That it is easily possible to sustain life on the products of the vegetable kingdom needs no demonstration for physiologists, even if a majority of the human race were not constantly engaged in demonstrating it ; and my researches show not only that it is possible, but that it is infinitely preferable in every way, and produces superior powers of both mind and body." FOOD ECONOMY "Economy is not saving, but wisely spending." — Ruskin. The question of economical nutrition is best answered by a thorough and systematic plan of education regarding food values. Though a food may be known to be rich in nutritive constituents, and of a nature to be easily di- gested, we still have to find whether the nutriment yielded is obtained at a reasonable cost. When one realizes that the market price of a food is no indication of its real value, the practical importance of such a test is more convinc- ingly felt; for in the market, one usually pays for flavor and rarity, and not for nutritive qualities. In other words, it is the demands of the palate that cost, and not those of nutrition. By a study of the chemical analysis of various foods bought for a particular sum, this test may be applied without difficulty. On comparison, we find that twenty- five cents spent for round steak (lean), at twenty-five cents a pound, gives food to the value of 670 food units; twenty-five cents invested in whitefish, at fifteen cents a pound, buys 542 units ; the same for oysters, at fifty cents a quart, yields only about 230 units; that amount for potatoes, at four cents a pound, obtains 1,938 units; while twenty-five cents spent for oatmeal, at seven and a half cents a pound, yields 6,200 units ; the same for wheat flour, at eight cents a pound, 5,234 units ; and in the form of well baked bread ready for use, 3,063 units. The economic value of a food depends largely upon its capacity for producing energy. The ideal is found in such food products as the grains, including bread, rice, corn meal, macaroni, etc.; also in legumes, such as dried peas and beans; and in immature green vegetables, such as green corn, green peas, and the like. Adding to these milk, cream, and eggs, there is a wide variety from which (23) FOOD ECONOMY Calories of Protein and Total Calories Obtained for 25 Cents In Some General Articles of Diet A Hides 25c will buy Price Pounds Calories Protein Total Calories Oysters (solids) . . 50c a qt. 1 108 230 Whitefish . . 15c a lb . 1% 325 542 Eggs . .40c a dz. 15 oz. 201 595 Beef (round lean ) .... . .25c a lb. 1 336 670 Peaches . . 4c a IT) . 6V 4 56 969 - 27 1,100 1,625 Milk . . 10c a qt. 5 298 Potatoes . 4 c a IT) . 6% 200 1,938 .15c a TT) 1% 53 1,983 2.0Y5 Almonds . . 20c a TT) . lVi 260 Beans (dried) . . 1 Sc a TT» . 1 2-5 568 2,229 Butter 5-9 10 2,253 2,890 Raisins . . 12V 2 c a TT». 42 Bread (homemade) . . . . 1 Oc a lb . 2% 413 3.063 Crackers (Graham) . . . . . 15c a lb. 1% 300 3,258 . 12V 2 c a lb. 2 888 3,310 . . 12 % e a lb . 2 483 3,330 Rice . . 10c a lb. 2V 2 362 4,075 Wheat Flour (entire).. . . 8c a IT). 3Vs 779 5,234 Corn Meal (granular) . . . . 7c a IT) . 3 4-7 594 , 5,911 Rolled Oats . 7 y 2 c a lb . 3% 970 6,200 (24) FOOD AND COOKERY 25 to choose a diet of non-irritating and easily digested foods that take the lead as a source of nourishment both from the economic and also from the health point of view. PRACTICAL HINTS Careful planning, so as to avoid wastage, is one of the first steps in the attainment of successful household man- agement. It is estimated that from fifteen to twenty per cent of all foods going into American kitchens is wasted. A few suggestions as to how the housewife may avoid a needless waste of food material in its care and prepara- tion may be of interest. In the first place, there should be a carefulness in the outlay, with freedom from extravagance. Plan the meals carefully from a select variety of only a few kinds of food, avoiding a large array of hearty and more expensive foods, which are not needed, and a great deal of which will be left over at the end of the meal. Preference should be given to the simpler and more inexpensive yet whole- some foods that are at hand every day. All foods left over should be reheated before there is the first sign of spoiling. Many foods gain richness in reheating. No food should be left adhering to the kettles in which they are cooked. All fragments should be care- fully saved and utilized. Vegetables should not be pared too thickly. Neither should the water from cooked vegetables be thrown away; it contains valuable salts, and should be used for soups and gravies. Thought should be given to the purchase and care of perishable foods. Overripe fruit, if purchased at all, should be purchased only for immediate use. Fruit kept in store should be examined often for the purpose of dis- carding any that may have begun to decay. Lemons should be laid on a shelf, space being left between, that they may not so readily mold. 26 FOOD AND COOKERY Lettuce and celery may be kept by first wrapping them in dry paper, then wringing another paper or cloth out of water and wrapping around the outside, and keeping in a dark place. All celery stalks left over, and their leaves, may be put into the warming oven and thoroughly dried to be kept for flavorings. The outer skins of red onions, while they have scarcely any flavor, are rich in coloring matter, and give a nice brown color to a vegetable broth or gravy ; and they should be kept in a glass jar for use as needed. Bread crusts should not be left to accumulate for too long a time, but should be used for making an entree, or a simple pudding with raisins, or they may be put into the warming oven and thoroughly dried, ground through a mill, and kept for various uses. Lastly, "preach the gospel of the clean plate." Too much food is ordinarily served at the first serving, with the result that good food which might have been saved finds its way into the garbage can. Small portions, with a second serving if desired, are always in good taste. FOOD PREPARATION "Food ivell cooked is partially digested" Cookery as an art ranks highest in the department of useful knowledge, connected as it is with the welfare of every human being. When understood in all its bearings, and conducted on scientific principles, it promotes health, tends toward moral and social improvement, and adds the charm of contentment to everyday life. The nutritive value of many foods depends upon how they are cooked. Many articles which, owing to their chemical condition or other cause, are quite unfit for nour- ishment when raw, are very nutritious when cooked. Cook- ing changes the food, and enables the saliva to get hold of it and convert it into sugar. Many inexpensive arti- cles and "left-overs," if carefully prepared and attractively served, may be just as appetizing as more expensive foods, and will usually be found quite as nutritious. OBJECTS SOUGHT IN COOKING There are three chief purposes sought in cooking. The first is to change the mechanical condition of the food so as to make it more digestible. The second object is to de- velop its flavors, making it more palatable and inviting. The third is to kill by heat any disease germs, parasites, or other dangerous organisms it may contain. In the first object, that of digestibility, we have to deal most of all with starch, as that is the most abundant of all foods. In its raw state, starch is not digested by saliva, and only in small quantities by the intestinal fluids; so in order for man to appropriate it, the woody envelope that incloses the starch granule must be broken, by being sub- jected to dry or moist heat. Boiling prepares the food and carries it only so far as soluble starch, leaving it subject to fermentation. Dry heat, or baking, forwards the proc- (27) 28 FOOD AND COOKERY ess into the dextrin stage; after which, through the proc- ess of digestion, it is brought to the maltose stage, where it is unfermentable. All the common vegetables, such as potatoes, turnips, carrots, and beets, and different grains, such as rice, wheat, corn, oats, etc., neither taste good nor are easily digested until their starch, cellulose, and other constituents have been changed from their compact, indigestible form by the action of heat. In the second step, development of food flavors, the ob- ject sought is to retain the valuable mineral salts and flavoring substances in the food. All young, tender vege- tables, such as string beans, green peas, etc., should be cooked in water only sufficient to cover them, and the remaining liquid should be served with the vegetable. During the cooking, the cover should be drawn to one side of the stewpan or kettle, to allow the volatile bodies gen- erated by the heat to pass off in the steam. These would otherwise impart to the vegetable a strong flavor and a dark color. Fresh vegetables should always be thoroughly cooked, but the cooking should stop while the vegetable is yet firm. Overcooking changes and toughens the texture of vegetable foods, destroys the coloring matters, and in- jures the mineral bodies that contribute to the flavor. Vegetables should be allowed to simmer slowly during the cooking, as rapid boiling tends to chip off the surface of the food, making it less palatable, and with a loss in nutriment. Rapid boiling hardens some foods, for in- stance, green corn, which should be put into boiling water and let simmer slowly for twenty minutes. Various cooking processes also have much to do with the development of the flavors in food, and rank in value as they do or do not retain the mineral or flavoring mat- ters. Baking is the best method for potato, squash, dried beans, etc.; and by this method, no nutritive material is lost. Steaming, or cooking in a perforated vessel over FOOD AND COOKERY 29 boiling water, is a good method for nearly all vegetables; and by this method, no nutritive material is lost, but the vegetables will have less flavor than when baked. Stew- ing, or cooking in so little water that it is almost boiled out at the end of the process, .the remaining liquid being served with the food, is the best method for vegetables with which a sauce is desired. It is very suitable for young and tender spinach, which can be cooked with no additional water beyond that remaining on the leaves after washing. As greens age, they absorb bitter flavor, and must then be cooked in deep boiling water with the cover off. This method is also permissible for such strong flavored vege- tables as cabbage, old onions, old beets, and old potatoes boiled in the skins. It is a wasteful method. The third step is that of destroying disease germs, or other dangerous organisms that may be present. Food and drink may be very dangerous purveyors of disease. The bacteria of typhoid fever sometimes find their way into drinking water, and those of typhoid and scarlet fever and diphtheria into milk, and bring sickness and death to a large number of people. Vegetables and fruits may become contaminated with the eggs of numerous parasites from the fertilizers ap- plied to them. Raw fruits and vegetables should always oe very thoroughly washed before they are served if there is any doubt as to their cleanliness. If the food is suffi- ciently heated in cooking, all organisms are killed. PRINCIPLES OF SUCCESSFUL COOKERY The two fundamental principles of successful cookery are: first, simplicity; second, appetizing serving. The meaning of simplicity in this connection is, to conserve and develop the natural flavors of the particular food Under hand, and not to confuse it with so many foreign substances as to make the whole a nameless mixture. 30 FOOD AND COOKERY God has placed in each food certain delicate flavors and attractive colors, which may be preserved in the food by proper cooking. A great lack of judgment is often ob- served in the way different foods are mixed together with- out regard to the effect of the flavor of one food upon the other ; likewise in the addition of large quantities of strong flavored substances, such as bay leaf, sage, thyme, and onion, to foods of delicate flavor, whereby the identity .of the food is largely lost. A sprinkle of onion flavor with the potato, in making potato soup, adds greatly to its palatability ; but a little too much onion will so cover up the delicate flavor of the potato as to make the soup a disappointment. Cream and tomato combined make a very palatable and nourishing soup, and the combination is agreeable. By the addition of fried bones, onion, and spices, however, the tomato flavor is so predominated by the stronger flavors as to make the soup a sort of nondescript, and consequently not in harmony with that simplicity in cookery which special- izes on the development and conservation of those delicate flavors in food which are really satisfying to the natural taste. The close affinity that exists between coloring matter in vegetable foods and their flavors, precludes any thought of retaining the one without the presence of the other. In order that the green color in fresh vegetables may be pre- served, they should be put to cook in boiling water; for this seals up the cells, as it were, and prevents the escape of much of the valuable salts and coloring matter. And the water should be kept boiling continuously until the food is done. Cold water, when added to fresh vegetables in cooking, extracts both color and flavor from the food, leav- ing it more or less insipid to the taste. Exception is made in the making of soups and vegetable stews, where the object is to extract the flavors into the broth or the gravy. FOOD AND COOKERY 31 The gift of taste came from God, just as much as sight or hearing; and we should derive enjoyment from the healthy exercise and proper use of these special senses. Through habitual indulgence in stimulants, condiments, and highly seasoned foods, the taste becomes perverted, and as a result, can detect but few flavors in food, prin- cipally salt, sweet, bitter, and sour. By partaking of sim- ple food, carefully prepared, and served in an appetizing manner, the sense of taste may be so developed as to en- able us to get genuine satisfaction from extracting good flavors out of the food we are eating, as a lover of music does from hearing a star musical performance, or as an artist does from seeing some masterpiece in an art gallery. In the second principle, that of appetizing serving, the aim is to satisfy the sense of sight and the sense of smell, as both have a direct bearing upon the digestion of food. It is a well established fact that all the iuices which aid the digestive processes are called forth at sight of food that is appetizingly and attractively served. The simple garnitures which all may employ, — a sprig of green, a friendly flower, contrast in color and design — and care to provide clean linen and appropriate dishes for serving, will greatly enhance the pleasure of the children and the grown-ups at the family board. God has provided for our eyes fruits and flowers in the most attractive designs and colors. The wonderful hues and tints of the fruits that are "good for food" tempt us to enjoy their delightful flavors. If, however, foods are served with spots of bruise in evidence, or revealing rough, untrimmed surfaces, or in cracked dishes, or otherwise out of harmony, wherein lies the inducement to partake of and appropriate these foods to the needs of the body? "God saw everything that He had made, and, behold, it was very good." Genesis 1 : 31. His injunction to us, "Eat ye that which is good," calls our attention to the reason as well. We are made of that which we eat. Our 3 — Food and Cookery 32 FOOD AND COOKERY food becomes our lifeblood. It should therefore be pure and palatable. It should be served attractively, that it may best offer to the human body the nutrition its elements contain. There is therefore the utmost need that sufficient time be given to the preparation and careful service of the daily food, since this is to become the life of these human tem- ples God has given. FREE FATS IN COOKING The question of the use of free fats in cooking should receive careful and thoughtful consideration, inasmuch as any extreme course in either direction is fraught with con- sequences that are detrimental to health. Many of the edible plants are deficient in the fat element; and instinc- tively, it would seem, man puts cream or butter on his bread. Fresh vegetables, while they have their delicate and characteristic flavors, taste "flat" without the addition of a little cream or free fat of some kind. Nature serves fats in the very best form to be utilized by the body; that is, emulsified. These wholesome fats are supplied in nuts and olives, also in the yolk of egg, and in milk and cream. When taken in this form, each minute globule of fat is surrounded with a thin envelope, which holds the fat particles apart, and protects the foods from the free fat, thus permitting them to be readily digested. Digestion of free fat takes place mainly in the small intestines. The pancreatic juice contains an enzyme called steapsin, which has the power of emulsifying fats, and also of splitting them into fatty acids and glycerin. The bile is an important factor in the digestion of fat. It has the power of greatly increasing the activity of the pancreatic lipase, and of holding in solution the fatty acids formed by its action, so that they are more perfectly absorbed. Free or neutral fats, if used too freely with meals, have a tendency to smear over the foods, and interfere with FOOD AND COOKERY 33 their digestion. The prolonged retention of free fats in the stomach favors fermentation and rancidity, often produc- ing heartburn and intestinal catarrh. Free fats, however, are more digestible when cold than when hot, because hot fats not only coat but intimately penetrate the food with which it is cooked. This is espe- cially true of fried foods, where each part of food is coated with a layer of fat, which keeps the digestive juices from acting on the other food elements. In seasoning such foods as hash or baked dressing, where the cooked potato in the hash and the soaked bread in the dressing readily absorb fat, and thus tend to make the food difficult of digestion, let the free fat first be used in making a sauce or a gravy, and then add this to the food. In this manner, the fat is not liberated to coat the starch granules, as is the case when free fat by itself is mixed with the starch and baked. COMBINATIONS AND MENU MAKING "The stomach crammed from every dish Of boil and roast, and flesh and fish, Where wind and phlegm and acid jar, And the whole man is one intestine war, Longs oft for schoolboy's simple fare, The temperate sleep, and spirits light as air." In order to eat for health and efficiency, man must ob- serve certain fixed laws in regard to the choice of his diet. He must have his due share of growth and repair foods, the proteins; there must be the proper proportion of car- bohydrates and fats, heat and energy producers; blended with these, there must be such mineral matters as are necessary for the repair of bones and teeth, and a proper bulk to stimulate active elimination. Not only does the body need all these elements, but for perfect health, they must be taken into the stomach in right chemical combinations. Many people who think that a certain food does not agree with them, may find that the trouble is not with the food, but with the fact that the foods eaten have disagreed with one another. Many foods which in themselves are good, if mixed indiscriminately with a number of other foods at the same meal, may be- come actually poisonous, and produce fermentation, acidity, gas in the stomach, and many other ills leading to most serious consequences. W. 0. Atwater, Ph. D., of the Department of Agricul- ture, Washington, D. C, in Farmer's Bulletin, No. 142, writes as follows: "How much harm is done by the in- jurious compounds sometimes formed from ordinary whole- some foods is seldom realized. Physiological chemistry is revealing the fact that these compounds may affect even the brain and the nerves, and that some forms of insanity (34) FOOD AND COOKERY 35 are caused by products formed by the abnormal transfor- mations of food and body material." Before entering into a discussion of any foods that may or may not be antagonistic to one another, it may be well to notice a few common practices which work at cross- purposes with Nature's efforts for our best good, and which, if persistently followed, will neutralize any benefit that could be derived from an otherwise strict regimen. 1. Large Variety. — The serving of any considerable number of foods at one meal leads inevitably to overeat- ing, which overtaxes the digestive organs, and thus makes for fermentation, and poisoning rather than nourishing the system. Overtaxation of the digestive organs is a bad form of dissipation, and is said to be the cause of more disease, whether directly or indirectly, than is caused by all alcoholic dissipation combined, the latter often being due to the former. "The feast is worse than the fast," if it tempts the appetite beyond the legitimate needs of the body, or if it brings together elements that the digestive organs are unable to cope with. Dr. Alexander Haig says on this point: "Diet as at pres- ent used is often the product of a vast amount of igno- rance; it is the cause of a hideous waste of time and money; it produces mental and moral obliquities, destroys health and shortens life, and generally quite fails to fulfill its proper purpose. I may say also that simple food of not more than two or three kinds at one meal is a great secret of health." (Compare "Ministry of Healing," page 310.) 2. Irregular and Too Frequent Eating. — "If you keep your digestive mill constantly grinding, it will soon wear out." Some people indulge the habit of eating between meals because of ignorance; but many more, because of insuffi- cient will power to resist the inclination. This practice invariably results in enfeebled and disordered digestion, 36 FOOD AND COOKERY and prepares the way for many diseases, by lowering the body's vitality, thus disposing it to sickness and premature old age. As a rule, meals come too closely together. The stomach should have time to dispose of one meal before another is introduced, with an interval of rest between; because the muscles of the stomach need rest after active work, just as do the muscles of the arm. The glands must have time to become recharged with a good quality of gastric juice. At least five or six hours should intervene between meals. Not more than three meals should be taken daily. The evening meal should be light, and composed of foods most easily digested, such as zwieback, crackers, fruit, and milk or cereal coffee, and should be eaten at least three hours before bedtime. As a result of eating late suppers, the digestive process is continued through the sleeping hours, causing restless dreams and improper digestion. Thus the system is deprived of the needed recuperation from the previous day's work. The result is that the morning finds the person awakening unrefreshed, with little relish for breakfast. For most people, two meals are better than three. Espe- cially is this so with people of sedentary habit and with brain workers. If there is an "all gone" feeling at night before one retires, this is not necessarily a sign that the body needs more food, but usually that it needs rest, in which case a drink of cold water is about all that is re- quired, or at most some fruit juice or an orange. By morn- ing, the "all gone" feeling will have vanished, showing that rest and not food was what the stomach demanded. 3. Hasty Eating. — "The teeth were put in the mouth, not in the stomach ; so the first thing is to chew. If you chew long, you will live long, and you will not need to eat so much. If you taste your food before you swallow it, you will not have to taste it afterward." — David Paulson, M. D. FOOD AND COOKERY 37 Mastication is an important part of digestion; and when foods are not thoroughly masticated, additional work is required of the stomach, and that organ is overworked, be- cause of having to do the mouth's work in addition to its own. Hasty eating, or "bolting" of food, is a fruitful cause of overeating. The food does not remain in the mouth long enough, under this condition, to give the satis- faction that it gives when thoroughly masticated ; so in an effort to satisfy the craving for food, more is taken than the body requires. Dry foods, which induce mastication, should have a prominent place in the dietary. 4. Condiments. — All condiments are excitants of the stomach and of the digestive tract, which they irritate and congest. Being agents of high seasoning, they serve to awaken the appetite, not to satisfy it. A few quotations from well-known authors on this subject follow: "In this fast age, the less exciting the food, the better. Condiments are injurious in their nature. Mustard, pep- per, spices, pickles, and other things of a like character, irritate the stomach and make the blood feverish and im- pure." — "Ministry of Healing,'* page 325. Dr. Gilman Thompson, in his book "Practical Dietetics," pages 289 and 293, says: "They at first cause more food to be eaten than necessary, and eventually destroy the ap- petite, developing chronic dyspepsia of an aggravated type." "An excess of vinegar habitually consumed with pickles, or otherwise, causes anaemia and emaciation by lessening the number of red corpuscles and reducing the alkalinity of the blood." Vinegar is made from wine, beer, cider, and from various fruits by a process of fermentation, and is an irritant to the delicate internal linings of the alimentary canal. Lemon juice, pure and wholesome, should supplant it for table use, and will be found to meet all the requirements of an acid in the preparation of food. 38 FOOD AND COOKERY 5. Stimulants. — Stimulation serves to bring an excess of blood to the mucous surface of the stomach. This creates abnormal appetite, usually mistaken for hunger, to satisfy which, one overeats, with the result that the digestive or- gans are burdened with a quantity of food which it will tax the system to dispose of. "Tea and coffee are drugs, not foods, and should come from the drug store instead of the kitchen." The principal and active constituents of tea and coffee are caffeine, tannic acid, and volatile oil. The effect of caffeine upon the body is to stimulate the nervous system. It removes the sense of fatigue, but produces sleeplessness, often followed by palpitation of the heart, indigestion, trem- bling, and many other evils. A noted author on materia medica (Potter) makes the following statement in regard to caffeine: "Used to excess, it disorders digestion, and causes func- tional disturbances of the nervous system, shown by head- ache, vertigo, mental confusion, and palpitation of the heart. It increases secretion, blunts sensation, exerts re- flex excitability, increases mental activity, and may pro- duce insomnia and great nervous restlessness. It first briefly stimulates the heart and raises arterial tension, but soon depresses both." Dr. Gilman Thompson again on this point says: "The ill effects of excessive tea drinking — the 'tea habit' — are referable to its action on the digestive and nervous sys- tems, and are cumulative. If taken in large quantities with meals, tea precipitates the digestive ferments, retards the activity of digestion, and may occasion gastric irrita- tion and catarrh. Constipation usually results. . . . The effect of the 'tea habit' on the nervous system is to over- stimulate and then depress it, first producing restlessness, worry, and insomnia, and finally muscular tremors, sen- sory disturbances, and palpitation." "In a recent report FOOD AND COOKERY 39 upon insanity in Ireland, tea is mentioned as a contribut- ing factor."— "Practical Dietetics," pages 250, 251. PLANNING THE MEAL Since the health and efficiency of the family so directly depend upon what they eat, no other study is more worthy of the housewife's attention than the art of planning har- mony in her meals. A small amount of food in right combination will give more energy than a large amount poorly combined. This makes the selection of foods a matter not only of health, but of economics; and when the principles of combining foods are rightly understood, very palatable and nutritious meals may be prepared from the most simple and inex- pensive foods. In the planning of meals, foods must be considered from two general standpoints, that of nutrition and that of agreement together. In reference to the first considera- tion — that of supplying the various food principles in right proportion — if we think of foods in the following four groups, and see to it that at least one food from each group is served at least once a day, the daily ration will lack no necessary kind of food material. 1. Carbohydrates. — These include cereal grains, — wheat, rye, corn, oats, rice, etc. ; and their products, — bread, mac- aroni, noodles, breakfast foods, and the like; also pota- toes, bananas, dried fruits, honey, etc. 2. Fats. — Olives, nuts, cream, butter, vegetable oils, etc. 3. Proteins. — Dried peas, beans, and lentils; milk, eggs, cottage cheese, nuts, macaroni, whole grains. 4. Mineral Matter, Vitamines, and Body-Regulating Sub- stances. — Fresh fruits and vegetables of all kinds; whole grains, unbolted flours, meals, etc. Food combinations, therefore, play an important part in a well balanced ration. For instance, potatoes, which 40 FOOD AND COOKERY are mostly starch, and eggs, which are largely albumen and fat, may be combined in such a way as to furnish all the needed elements in right proportion. As rice is nearly all starch, and beans are rich in protein, these make an excellent combination. Nuts, rich in proteins and fats, and fruits, containing sugar and acids, also combine well. To a meal composed largely of potatoes and rice, which are deficient in proteins and fats, there may be added a little cream, a few ripe olives, and a few nuts, to balance the needed elements in a meal. In seeking to provide foods that will give proper nour- ishment to the body, we should avoid the extremes in either of two directions: on the one hand, that which tends to- ward an impoverished diet; on the other hand, that which brings into one meal too many heavy, highly concentrated foods. For instance, it will be seen that fresh vegetables, especially the coarser kinds, contain a large proportion of water in their composition, and thus by themselves would fail of supplying the proper nutrition to the body; but when served with the more solid foods, as grains, nuts and nut foods, or legumes, they furnish the needed bulk to the food, and are rich in mineral matters. A few general rules for combinations from the stand- point of agreement are given below. Foods that agree well together are: Grains with fruit and nuts. Grains with milk. Grains with eggs. Grains with vegetables and nuts. Fruit and nuts. Foods that do not digest well together are : Fruits and vegetables, especially the coarse vegetables. Milk and sugar in quantities. Foods cooked in fats. FOOD AND COOKERY 41 Fruits, as a rule, are very easily digested; while coarse vegetables, such as turnips, carrots, beets, tubers, cooked cabbage, and the like, require from three to four hours or more for digestion. Therefore when the two are mixed in the stomach, the delayed process of vegetable digestion serves to detain the fruit juices until fermentation is the natural result. The finer or fruity vegetables, which ripen in the sun, such as green peas, green corn, tomatoes, pump- kin, squash, cucumbers, melons, and the like, may be used with subacid fruits, by most people in health; and this should be taken into consideration in the making out of the plans. In order to choose foods that will combine well in a meal, it is a good plan to select some dish as the keynote, so to speak, and group around it such others as will har- monize with it. A safe plan to follow is to see that the soup, the relishes, and the dessert, if used, harmonize with each other, as nearly every one will partake of all three of these. If fruit salad or fruit dessert is used, and a vegetable is chosen, it should be of the finer or fruity kind. In the old-fashioned "boiled dinner," including cabbage, turnips, potatoes, onions, etc., the mixture of vegetables should govern the selection of both soup and dessert, which should be chemically in keeping with it. Fresh fruits, fruit soup, or fruit dessert should never be combined with this kind of meal; but grains, nuts, and bread or rice pudding may be used, with a soup of some kind of legume, as peas, or beans, etc., or other nutritious food. Sugar and milk taken together in large quantities are especially harmful. The adding of much sugar to mushes, or its too free use in cakes and puddings, makes them less wholesome in proportion to the amount added. The follow- ing quotation is given from "Ministry of Healing," page 302, and is to the point: 42 FOOD AND COOKERY "Far too much sugar is ordinarily used in food. Cakes, sweet puddings, pastries, jellies, jams, are active causes of indigestion. Especially harmful are the custards and puddings in which milk, eggs, and sugar are the chief in- gredients. The free use of milk and sugar taken together should be avoided." SIMPLE MENUS The following menus are designed to represent a fair combination of foods in meals, both from the standpoint of nutrition, and also of agreement. ORANGES CORN DODGERS BREAKFAST STEAMED NATURAL BROWN RICE CREAM HONEY DINNER APPLE SAUCE BAKED GARBANZOS LETTUCE • NEW ENGLAND DINNER RIPE OLIVES i ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD ENGLISH WALNUTS HOOVER PUDDIXG LUNCHEON BAKED BANANAS RYE WAFERS CREAM RICE CANTALOUPE CORN PUFFS BREAKFAST SAVORY HASH MILK DINNER GRAPES CEREAL COFFEE JELLIED EGG BUTTER SLICED TOMATO RYE BREAD CREAM OF CORN SOUP WHOLE RICE WITH PEAS STRAWBERRY WHIP LUNCHEON COTTAGE CHEESE BUTTER PEARS STEWED PRUNES MILK TOAST CREAM ROLLS CEREAL COFFEE The accompanying table gives the proportion of food elements in some of our most common foods. By a little study, one can become sufficiently intelligent along this line to keep the diet properly balanced. FOOD AND COOKERY 43 TABLE OF FOOD COMPOSITION Name Portion Containing Wt. of Per cent of 100 Calories 100 C. § ^ O *e *a > a^ = "* 9 ? §."8 § « «• ft £•8 a o Apple Sauce ordinary serving .... 3.3 2 5 93 Apples, raw 2 apples 7.3 3 7 90 Apricots, cooked . . . .large serving 4.6 6 94 Bananas 1 large 3.5 5 5 90 Beans, baked small size dish 2.6 21 18 61 Beans, string 5 servings 16.6 15 48 3 7 Beets 3 servings 8.7 2 23 75 Bread, corn small square 1.3 12 16 72 Bread, rye 2 small slices 1.4 14 2 84 Bread, white ordinary thick slice... 1.3 13 6 81 Bread, whole wheat. .2 small slices 1.4 16 3 81 Butter small pat 44 .5 99.5 Buttermilk 1 ^ glasses 9.7 34 12 54 Cake, sponge small piece 2.5 19 10 71 Cantaloupe ordinary serving 8.6 6 94 Carrots 2 servings 5.8 10 34 56 Corn Flakes ordinary bowl 97 11 1 88 Corn,' sweet ordinary serving 3.5 13 10 77 Cottage Cheese small serving 3.1 76 8 16 Grape Juice small glass 4.2 100 Macaroni, cooked ...ordinary serving 3.85 14 15 71 Milk, whole small glass 4.9 19 52 29 Milk, skimmed 1V 2 glasses 9.4 37 7 56 Hominy, cooked . . . .large serving 4.2 11 2 87 Honey 4 teaspoonfuls 1.05 1 99 Olives, ripe 7 olives 1.3 2 91 7 Orange Juice 1 te^cupful 6.6 100 Peaches 2 medium size 4.7 4 2 94 Peanuts about 26 62 20 63 17 Pears 1 large 5.4 4 7 89 Peas, green 1 serving 3. 23 27 50 Pecan Nuts about 8 46 6 87 7 Potatoes, baked 1 large 3. 11 1 88 Rice, cooked ordinarv bowl 3.1 10 1 89 Rolls, buns 1 large 1.2 12 7 81 Soup, cream barley, .ordinary bowl 5. 14 33 53 Strawberries 2 servings 9.1 10 15 75 Sugar, granulated . .IVz tablespoonfuls ... .86 100 Sugar, maple 2 tablespoonfuls 1.03 100 Tomatoes, fresh ... .4 medium size 15. 15 16 69 Wheat Flour 4 tablespoonfuls 96 15 5 80 Zwieback one thick slice 81 9 21 70 COURSE OF COOKING LESSONS The following course of lessons is in no way intended as a complete guide to hygienic cookery. Of the great variety of ways that are healthful and nourishing, in whicli grains, fruits, nuts, and vegetables may be prepared, only a few of the most practical can be taken up here. For class work, this course consists of a series of twenty lessons, two lessons each week, and each period occupying two hours; but it may be modified by the instructor ac- cording to convenience, the occasion, or the length of time given for class periods. The number of pupils composing a class should range fr^m eight to twenty-four. Careful attention is given to the study of the nutritive values of foods, their digestibility, combinations, etc., and to the general principles involved in the making of menus. A study of the recipes, with accompanying instructions, be- fore beginning the practical work of each class, will sim- plify the work, and aid the students in an understanding of the principles brought out. LESSON OUTLINE Lesson 1. Pasteurized milk, lactosa, cottage cheese, vege- table butter, steamed natural rice, wheat sticks, prune whip. Lesson 2. Cream of tomato soup, baked dressing without eggs, brown gravy, steamed fruit pudding. Lesson 3. Whole rice with peas, corn dodgers, stewed beets, oat gruel, Hoover pudding. Lesson 4. Nut and potato pie, stewed carrots, buckwheat sticks, pumpkin pie without eggs. Lesson 5. Aerated wheat gems, Spanish rice, gluten gruel, lemon snow. Lesson 6. Vegetable salads, dressings, garnitures. Lesson 7. Family potato soup, ribbon bean loaf, baked bean puree, corn bread, Graham fruit pudding. Lesson 8. Macaroni family style, spinach, browned rice, corn meal crisps. (44) FOOD AND COOKERY 45 Lesson 9. Vegetable gelatin, orange jelly, lemon jelly, berry jelly, fruit mold, vegetable loaf en aspic. Lesson 10. Julienne soup, bean patties, rice and egg cro- quettes, apple and raisin pudding. Lesson 11. Noodles, soy bean-rice loaf, soy bean-rice pat- ties, lemon pie, junket. Lesson 12. Cream of corn soup, loaf cake, plain icing, toast water. Lesson 13. Peas with noodles, macaroni au gratin, baked eggplant, cream sauce, gluten biscuit. Lesson 14. Principles of bread making, wheat bread, glu- ten bread, rolls, buns. Lesson 15. Potato stew with dumplings, grano cereal, cream rice pudding. Lesson 16. Savory hash, fruit crisps, rice water, albumen- ized milk, fruit soup. Lesson 17. Wheat puffs, baked Lima beans, duchess potato, pressed fruit pudding. Lesson 18. Principles of canning and preserving — practi- cal work. Lesson 19. Fruit salads, baked banana, jellied egg, lemon whey. Lesson 20. Layer cake, frosting, ornamenting. ESSENTIALS .TO SUCCESS In this work, as in any other, two things are vital to success, — first a careful planning, and then the carrying out of the plans made; as expressed in the terse sentence, "Plan your work, then work your plan." All the ingredients necessary for the preparation of a dish should be at hand and carefully measured before we begin to combine them. Accuracy in measuring and care- fulness in combining are as essential to the success of a recipe as is the knowledge of what is to go into it. The effect of heat at different temperatures, and the time of exposure to it, must be understood. But this knowledge can come only as a result of experience. The following articles are necessary for measuring: a cup holding exactly one half pint, with thirds and fourths indicated, teaspoons and tablespoons of regulation sizes, 46 FOOD AND COOKERY and a commcn table knife. To insure uniformly good re- sults, level measurements have been adopted by leading teachers in cookery, as the best guide that can be given; and these will be used throughout this book. The follow- ing table of measures may be used as a guide : TABLE OF MEASURES 3 teaspoons equal 1 tablespoon 2 tablespoons of sugar or liquid. . .equal 1 ounce 16 tablespoons equal 1 cup 4 cups equal 1 quart 2 cups sugar and most liquids. . . .equal 1 pound 10 eggs equal 1 pint 9 whites equal 1 cup 12 yolks (large) equal 1 cup To measure a cupful of any dry ingredient, fill the cup, rounding slightly by placing material in the cup with a spoon; and with the sharp edge of a case knife, brush off all material that is piled above the brim. Care must be taken not to shake the cup. To measure a teaspoon or tablespoon of dry ingredients, dip the spoon into the same, and with the edge of a case knife turned toward the tip of the spoon, brush off all that extends above its edge. For one half spoonful, divide with a knife lengthwise of the spoon, and push out one half; divide halves crosswise for quarters. The term "sifted flour" implies that flour is sifted once before meas- uring. In combining ingredients, three movements are em- ployed, described as follows: 1. Stirring, a circular motion made with a spoon through the ingredients, continued until all are blended. 2. Beating, a turning of ingredients over and over rapidly by means of a spoon or an egg whip, to inclose air by continually bringing the under part to the surface, allowing the utensil used to be brought constantly in con- FOOD AND COOKERY 47 tact with the bottom of the dish, and up through the whole mixture. 3. Folding, a turning over and over of the ingredients; best accomplished by a vertical, downward motion of spoon or whip, bringing it up through the mixture, and each time allowing it to come in contact with the bottom of the dish, repeating until all is thoroughly blended. This is a slower movement than that of beating, and its object is so to mix ingredients that the air already introduced may not escape. ood and Cookery MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES Butter Substitutes. — The great increase in tuberculosis among cattle, as well as the continued rise in price of nearly all foodstuffs, has created a desire for some sub- stitute for dairy butter which would prove inexpensive, yet wholesome and appetizing. The following preparations are now used to a considerable extent, both for cooking and for table use, and can be prepared in a few minutes' time. In the following recipes, throughout the book, dairy butter may be substituted for vegetable butter if desired, the same amount being used that is given for vegetable butter. EMULSIFIED VEGETABLE OIL Secure a high grade of cottonseed or corn oil. Beat one egg slightly, and add the oil, a few drops to begin with, stirring constantly and increasing the oil gradually. Add two teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, then more oil, until three cups of oil have been used, and the mixture is smooth and quite thick. Salt to taste, and put into a well covered crock, and use the same as dairy butter. VEGETABLE BUTTER Take three cupfuls of any good coconut product on the market, such as kokofat, kaola, or a good brand of hy- drogenated vegetable fat, such as crisco.* Add the juice of half a small lemon, salt to taste, and a few drops of vegetable butter color. Mix with spoon or fork, until the color of dairy butter. The juice from carrots, obtained by grating, and pressing out in a cloth, may be used in- stead of lemon juice and butter color if desired, and is rich in vitamine content. * The mention of a proprietary substance in a recipe must not be taken as a guarantee by the authors. We know very Utile about the manufac- ture of the above named products; but v:e have reason to believe they are wholesome, and contain no animal fat. (use level measurements for all ingredients.) (48) FOOD AND COOKERY 49 PASTEURIZED MILK Experiments made by the Bureau of Animal Industry, (Reference— M-2. 212. 9), United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C, have shown that the tubercle bacilli and the bacilli of typhoid were killed when milk in which either of the above organisms had been placed experimentally was kept at a temperature of 140 degrees F. (60 degrees C.) for twenty minutes; also, that heating milk to 185 degrees F. in the so-called "flash" Pasteurizing apparatus, and then cooling it, serves to de- stroy any tubercle bacilli that may be present. Method. — Place a rack or a piece of thick wire netting in the bottom of a pail or a large saucepan. Arrange the bottles of milk on the rack. Wipe the mouths and caps of the bottles with a wet cloth, but do not remove the caps. Make an opening in the cap of one of them, large enough to insert a thermometer, which must be previously steri- lized. Surround the bottles with cold water until the water reaches nearly to the top of the bottles. Place over the fire, and bring quickly to the temperature of 150 degrees F., as indicated by the thermometer within the bottle. Re- move from the saucepan, cover with a cloth, and let stand on the table for twenty minutes, after which cool gradually by setting the bottles into warm water, then cooler, and lastly cold water. Set on ice if it is available, and do not remove the caps until the milk is needed. BUTTERMILK The therapeutic value of buttermilk is well known to the medical profession. People who suffer of such diseases as acute diarrhea, gastritis, and intestinal diseases, during the hot season, often find the use of sour milk the best means of combat- ing the trouble. The claim put forth is that many of the fUSE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INCREMENTS.) 50 FOOD AMD COOKERY putrefactive bacteria of the large intestine are gradually replaced by the harmless lactic acid germs. In making buttermilk with acid-forming ferments, first destroy the other germs that are always found in milk. This is accomplished by heating the milk before starting to make the lactosa. Lactone tablets contain the active ferment in a latent form. Thus a number of hours is required for them to develop actively, and this is accom- plished by keeping the milk at about 85 degrees Fahren- heit. The fireless is a good place to set the milk in which the lactic germs are to develop. Starter. — Bring one pint of milk to the boiling point, then set the dish into a pan of cold water to cool. When lukewarm, add one half lactone tablet, dissolved in a little water. Mix well, cover tightly, and set in a warm room or in a fireless until coagulated, which will require from eight to twelve hours or more, according to the tempera- ture of the room in which it is kept. As soon as the milk has thickened, set it in the refrigerator, if available; and in twenty-four hours, you have your starter. It is of no account unless it has thickened. This starter will keep for days, but it is not good to drink, and there is no need of keeping it after the first lactosa is made. Lactosa. — Bring one quart of milk to the boiling point, then cool by setting in cold water. When lukewarm, add one tablespoonful of the starter, and mix well. Cover, and set in a warm room or in a fireless until it coagulates, which should take from four to twelve hours, according to the temperature of the room in which it is kept. As soon as it is thick, set into the refrigerator, or in a cool place; and when cold, it is ready to drink. Beat smooth with an egg whip before serving. This should keep sweet for two or three days. The next time it is made, use this lactosa for a starter, one tablespoonful to a quart of milk. If the milk tastes too acid, or if it is covered with a thin (use level measurements for all ingredients.) FOOD AND COOKERY 51 whey, use less of the starter. As the milk grows older and more acid, one quart can be made with one teaspoonful of lactosa instead of a tablespoonful. COTTAGE CHEESE NO. 1 Set a dish containing lactosa into a pan of hot water, cover, and heat until the milk forms into a curd. Then set on a table and let cool. Pour into cheesecloth, and hang up to drain. Rub smooth, and season with Pasteur- ized cream, lactosa, or canned milk, and a little salt, and serve. COTTAGE CHEESE NO. 2 Pour boiling water into clabbered milk until whey forms. Let stand fifteen minutes, then strain as usual. HOMEMADE NUTTOSE 1 cup tomato pulp % cup warm water % cup flour % cup cornstarch 1 *4 tea spoonfuls salt 4 tablespoonfuls nut butter X A teaspoonful each of sage and marjoram Add the savory and the salt to the nut butter, and thin with the water, adding a little at a time until you have a smooth cream. Wet the flour and the starch with the to- mato, adding it gradually, so as to avoid lumping. Mix, and put through strainer into an oiled double boiler, and cook from two to three hours. One half of the flour used may be Graham if desired. NUT AND FRUIT BARS 1 V2 cups dried figs or seeded raisins, or both % cup ground walnuts % cup gluten meal or cracker crumbs Wash the figs, place on a baking sheet, and put into the oven until hot through. Then remove. Grind the nuts through the mill first, then the fruit. Mix with the cereal, and grind all together twice. Then roll out V2 inch thick, and cut into small squares. (USE level measurements for all ingrements.) 52 FOOD AND COOKERY HOMEMADE CEREAL. COFFEE % cup corn meal 2 cups bran V 3 cup molasses V2 cup boiling water Mix the dry ingredients in a bowl. Add the hot water to the molasses, and mix well. Pour the wetting on the grain, rub between the hands, and mix thoroughly. Put into a baking pan, and bake in a good oven until well burned, stirring often, so that the color may be uniform and almost black. Remove from the oven, and use the same as ordinary coffee. FRUIT COFFEE Take dried figs, wash and cut into pieces. Lay on a pie tin, and bake until black and crisp. Break up, add boiling water, let simmer for a few moments, and serve the same as cereal coffee. GRANO CEREAL, 2 cups pastry flour % cup rolled oats *4 cup corn meal Large V2 cup water % teaspoonful salt Mix all the dry ingredients. Add the water slowly, stir- ring constantly through the flour, so as to avoid getting any particles of flour too wet, and mix to a stiff dough. Work on the board for a few moments. Then roll out V\ inch thick, cut into strips, lay in a baking pan, prick with a fork, and bake to a light brown color. When cold, grind through a food chopper, using a coarse knife. NOODLES 1 egg 1 tablespoonful water or milk About 1 Vi cups pastry flour A few grains of salt Beat the egg slightly with a fork. Add the water and the salt. Mix in flour sufficient to make a very stiff dough. Knead well, divide into two pieces, and roll out to the thickness of paper, having the board well floured. Let dry for a few minutes. Then cut into strips 1% inches wide, (USE level measurements for all ingredients.) FOOD AND COOKERY 53 pile these in tiers, and cut crosswise into fine shreds with a sharp knife. These will keep well if dried after being shredded. PARCHED CORN Select a fine grade of ripe sweet corn. Shell, and- lay in a baking pan in shallow layers, put into the oven, and brown very lightly, stirring often. While it is yet hot, after removing from the oven, add a little vegetable butter and a sprinkle of salt. Mix well, and serve. CREAM ROAST FLOUR Sift flour into a baking pan, about two inches deep. Put into a moderate oven, and stir often -until lightly toasted, but not browned at all. Sift again, and keep for use as needed. BROWN FLOUR Sift flour into a baking pan, put into a good oven, and cook to a nice brown, stirring often, so that it may be uniform in color and not scorched. Sift again into a crock, and keep for future use. BREAD CROUTONS Trim the outer crust from stale bread. Cut into V2- inch cubes. Bake in an oiled baking pan, stirring often, until a light brown all the way through. For soup croutons, cut the bread into ^-inch cubes, and bake the same as above. SOUP ROYALE Separate 1 egg. Add 1 teaspoonful milk to the white, and 2 teaspoonfuls milk to the yolk. Add a pinch of salt, and beat lightly with fork, to mix. Oil two timbale molds, and have the bottom of the molds lined with paper. Pour the egg yolk and the white into the separate molds, and poach in a pan of water until just "set." When cold, slice and cut into any desired shape for soup garniture. (use level measurements for all ingredients.) BREAD Bread is the most important article of diet, and deserves more attention than it receives. Considering the conven- iences that exist everywhere, and the widespread knowl- edge of bread making, it seems unnecessary and wrong to find poor bread on the table. "Homemade bread requires care and attention ; and then you have the real staff of life." Breads are divided into two classes: 1. Unfermented — made light by the introduction of air into the dough or batter; 2. Fermented — made light by a ferment, yeast be- ing usually employed. Space will not permit us at this time to enter into an extended discussion of the effects following the use of so- dium bicarbonate (soda) and baking powders in bread making. However, a few quotations from authoritative sources may be of interest. Harvey W. Wiley, food expert and chemist, in his book "Foods and Their Adulteration," under the caption "Harm- fulness of Baking Powder Residues," page 253, has the following to say: "The question of harmfulness of the residues left by the various forms of baking powder is one which has been of much interest to the hygienist and physician. It is not claimed in any case that the residues are beneficial. The principal question which has been discussed is, which of them is the least harmful. This is a question which it is not proper to enter into in this manual. It might, how- ever, not be out of place to say that the use of chemical reagents for leavening bread is not so advisable as the ordinary fermentation." "It would be better, evidently, if all people used more yeast breads and less baking powder rolls. At the same time, the utility and convenience of baking powder cannot be denied, and this is a factor which must be taken into (54) FOOD AND COOKERY 55 consideration in the general discussion and final resolution of the question," Dr. I. P. Pavlov, professor in the Imperial Military Academy of Medicine, St. Petersburg, writes as follows: "Concerning the effects of a continued addition of sodium bicarbonate to the food, — such an addition for a length of time markedly depresses the secretory activity of the pancreas, and brings it down to an unusually low level." "To sodium bicarbonate (soda), an inhibitory influence must be ascribed."— "The Work of the Digestive Glands," pages 113, 145. In regard to the destructive action of soda on vitamines in food, the Monthly Bulletin, Indiana State Board of Health, of June, 1916, contains the following: "Another disease called pellagra, which frequently ends in insanity and death, is also produced by eating devitamined foods. It is found that soda kills vitamines; therefore we must not put soda into our foods. . . . Biscuits made light with bicarbonate of soda (baking soda), and which always have a 'soda taste,' are very unwholesome. . . . Cooks should not use bicarbonate of soda in cooking dried beans, dried corn, dried peas, and the like, even if it does hasten the process." From the book "Ministry of Healing," pages 300, 301, we read : "The use of soda or baking powder in bread mak- ing is harmful and unnecessary. Soda causes inflammation of the stomach, and often poisons the entire system. Many housewives think that they cannot make good bread with- out soda, but this is an error. If they would take the time to learn better methods, their bread would be more whole- some, and to a natural taste, it would be more palatable." Air may be incorporated into a batter by beating. The use of eggs will aid in the process, because the white of egg, on account of its viscous nature, readily catches air and helps convey it into the batter. The following recipe for wheat puffs will help to illustrate these principles : 56 FOOD AND COOKERY UNFERMENTED BATTER BREADS WHEAT PUFFS l a /4 cups sifted pastry flour % cup whole wheat flour M> teaspoonful salt 1 teaspoonful vegetable fat 1 cup milk 1 egg separated Make a batter of the flour, milk, salt, oil, and yolk of egg, and stir smooth. Beat the white stiff, and pour the batter gradually into the beaten white, and mix, using the folding motion. Pour by large spoonfuls into hot, well oiled iron gem pans, and bake in a quick oven to a nice brown. CURRANT PUFFS Use the above recipe, and as soon as the irons are filled with batter, sprinkle a few dried currants into each mold, and bake the same as the above recipe. CORN MEAL PUFFS 1 cup pastry flour % cup corn meal (toasted lightly in the oven) V2 teaspoonful salt 2 teaspoonfuls vegetable fat 1 scant cup milk 1 egg separated Make a batter of the flour, corn meal, milk, oil, salt, and yolk of egg, and stir smooth. Beat the white stiff, and gradually fold the batter into the beaten white, and bake the same as wheat puffs. AERATED WHEAT GE3IS 1 cup whole wheat flour V 2 cup white bread flour y 2 teaspoonful salt 1 tablespoonful melted vegetable butter 1*4 cups milk Make a batter of the flour, salt, fat, and cold milk, and beat for a couple of minutes. The milk should be cold, and the irons heated in a good oven. Fill each mold with a large spoonful .of the batter, and bake the same as wheat puffs. This kind of bread is best if mixed the night before, and set in a cold place overnight. (USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.) FOOD AND COOKERY . 57 AERATED CORN MEAL GEMS V2 cup white bread flour 1 cup corn meal (lightly toasted in the ovon) V2 teaspoonful salt 1 tablespoonful melted vegetable butter 1 a /4 cups milk Make a batter at night, of the flour, corn meal, fat, salt, and milk. Beat for a few minutes, and let stand in a cold place overnight. In the morning, pour into hot, well oiled iron gem pans, and bake the same as wheat gems. CORN BREAD 1% cups corn meal 2 tablespoonfuls whole wheat flour 2V 2 tablespoonfuls vegetable butter 2 tablespoonfuls sugar 114 teaspoonfuls salt. 1 % cups boiling water 2 eggs separated Mix all the dry ingredients in a bowl,, add the butter, pour on the boiling water in a slow stream, stirring con- tinuously. Add two or three tablespoonfuls cold water if needed, to make a medium smooth batter. Beat the whites stiff. Beat the yolks, and fold them into the beaten whites. Into this, work the corn mixture, and mix, using the fold- ing motion. Pour into a shallow oiled baking pan, and bake in a quick oven. Success in making this bread will depend largely on following the directions in having the water boiling hot, and then pouring it over the meal in a slow stream, as too rapid pouring will dissolve the starch granules, and consequently it will absorb too much water, and as a result, it cannot be made light in baking. CORN DODGERS 1 cup corn meal (preferably toasted lightly in the oven) W2 tablespoonfuls vegetable fat V2 teaspoonful salt 1 tablespoonful brown sugar 1 V2 cups boiling water Mix all the dry ingredients, add the fat, and pour on the boiling water all at once and stir smooth. A few table- spoonfuls of water may be added if needed, to make the batter of a consistency barely to drop from a spoon, but not run. Drop from the side of a large spoon, into an (use level measurements for all ingredients.) 58 FOOD AND COOKERY oiled baking pan, in oblong shapes, and bake in a quick oven. CORN CAKE Take the above corn mixture, and spread in an oiled baking pan % inch deep, and bake in a hot oven. JOHNNYCAKE 1 cup corn meal 2 tablespoonfuls whole wheat flour 1 tablespoonful sugar 1V 2 tablespoonfuls vegetable fat Vs teaspoonful salt 1 cup boiling milk 1 egg separated Put the corn meal and the flour into the oven until lightly toasted. Mix all the dry ingredients. Add the fat and pour on the boiling milk all at once, and stir. Two or three tablespoonfuls more of cold milk may be added if needed to make smooth, but the mixture must not be soft. Beat the white stiff. Beat the yoik, and fold the yolk into the beaten white. Add the corn mixture, and mix, using the folding motion. Drop from the side of a spoon into an oiled pan, in oblong shapes, leaving space between, and bake in a quick oven. HOT CAKES % cup coarse zwieback crumbs 3 tablespoonfuls flour Mr teaspoonful salt 1 teaspoonful brown sugar 2 eggs 1 cup warm milk Heat the milk to about 115 degrees. Mix all the dry ingredients well, pour the milk over them, and let stand ten minutes. Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks, and stir them into the crumb mixture. Beat the whites stiff, fold the crumb mixture into the beaten whites, and bake on an oiled soapstone griddle. UNFERMENTED DOUGH BREADS The earliest forms of bread were "unleavened breads." This term has been applied to hard breads, such as the Passover cakes of the Israelites, and other breads in the (USE level measurements foe all ingredients.) FOOD AND COOKERY 59 form of thin cakes, sticks, etc. These hard breads are doubtless the most wholesome, because they encourage thorough mastication; and being free from any chemical or ferment, they are easily digested in the stomach. The success in making these breads will depend largely upon mixing the dough so as not to get any of the flour too wet. If the dough is soft, it will result in making the bread hard when baked. On the other hand, if no more water is used than is required for holding the dough together, the bread will be porous, and will be found palatable. CREAM ROLLS 1% cups sifted pastry flour % cup whole wheat flour V2 teaspoonful salt 1 teaspoonful sugar % cup rich cream "Vs cup cold water Add the water to the cream, and mix well. Mix all the dry ingredients in a bowl, into which pour the wetting in a very slow stream, stirring constantly, and removing portions as they stick together, to avoid getting any of the flour too wet. Mix all into a stiff dough, and roll out about % inch in thickness. Then cut into long strips about % inch in width. Roll each strip on the board, and cut crosswise into 3-inch lengths. Lay in a baking pan, leav- ing a little space between, and bake to a light brown color. WHEAT STICKS 1 cup sifted pastry flour Y2 cup whole wheat flour 2 teaspoonfuls sugar V 2 teaspoonful salt Scant V 3 cup cold water IVz tablespoonfuls vegetable oil Put the flour, sugar, and salt into a bowl. Add the oil. Rub the flour between the hands to distribute the oil evenly. Then add the water, and mix as for cream rolls. Knead on a board for a few moments, and roll out to % inch in thickness. Cut with a dull knife into long strips about Vs inch wide. Then cut crosswise into sticks about 3 inches in length. Lay in a baking pan, leaving a little space between, and bake to a light brown color. (USE level measurements for all ingredients.) 60 FOOD AND COOKERY ENTIRE WHEAT STICKS 1% cups entire wheat flour V2 teaspoonful salt 1 tablespoonful sugar 2 tablespoonfuls vegetable fat V2 cup cold water Mix all the dry ingredients, add the melted fat, and rub between the hands to distribute the oil evenly. Add the water slowly, and mix the same as for wheat sticks, ex- cept that this dough may be a little softer, because of the entire wheat used. WALNUT STICKS Add Y3 cup chopped walnuts to the flour of either of the above recipes for sticks, and bake the same as wheat sticks. FRUIT CRISPS 1 V2 cups pastry flour % cup whole wheat flour V2 teaspoonful salt 3 tablespoonfuls sugar 2% tablespoonfuls vegetable fat Scant V2 cup cold water Sultana raisins or figs Wash the raisins, and lift them out of the water. Put them on the fire with barely enough moisture to heat them through. As soon as the water is evaporated, remove from the fire, and grind through a coarse food mill. Mix all the dry ingredients. Add the oil, and rub the flour between the hands to distribute the oil evenly. Add the water slowly, only sufficient to mix into a stiff dough, fol- lowing directions for mixing cream rolls. Work the dough together, and roll out into a long strip, about the thickness of pie crust. Spread the fruit over half of the dough. Then fold the remaining half over the fruit, and roll lightly with a rolling-pin to press the dough together. Cut into squares, prick with a fork, lay in a baking pan, and bake on the top grate of a hot oven, to a very light brown. Care must be used not to overcook this bread, as the fruit sugar burns very quickly. Remove from the oven before the fruit has had time to cook too much. DATE ROLLS Make pastry "from the above recipe. Roll out to the thickness of pie crust, cut into strips 2% inches wide, (USE level measurements for all ingredients.) FOOD AND COOKERY 61 moisten the back edge of the strip of pastry, place stoned dates end to end in the middle of the strip, and fold up the front edge of the pastry. Then roll over until the edges meet, and cut into 3-inch lengths. Bake in a moderate oven until light brown. CORJY MEAL CRISPS 1 cup corn meal 1 cup pastry flour V 2 teaspoonful salt 1 tablespoonful sugar 2 tablespoonfuls vegetable fat V2 cup water Mix all the dry ingredients, add the oil, and rub between the hands. Add the water, and mix to dough. Roll out % inch thick, and cut with a biscuit cutter. Prick with a fork, and bake to a light brown. RYE WAFERS 1 cup rye flour 1 cup pastry flour 2 V 2 tablespoonfuls vegetable fat 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar V2 teaspoonful salt Scant V2 cup water, or just enough water to hold the flour together to stiff dough Mix all the dry ingredients, add the oil, and rub the flour between the hands to distribute the oil through the flour. Add the water slowly, and mix the same as for wheat sticks. Roll out i/4 inch thick, cut with a biscuit cutter, prick with a fork, and bake to a light brown color. RYE STICKS Take the above dough, and roll out V2 inch thick. Cut into long t strips about % inch wide, then again crosswise into 3-inch lengths. Lay in a baking pan, leaving a little space between, and bake to a light brown color. BUCKWHEAT STICKS 1 cup buckwheat flour 1 cup pastry flour V2 teaspoonful salt 2V 2 tablespoonfuls vegetable fat 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar Scant V2 cup water Mix and bake the same as for rye sticks. (USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INCREMENTS.) 62 FOOD AND COOKERY BUCKWHEAT WAFFRS Roll out the above dough to V* inch thick, cut with a biscuit cutter, prick with a fork, and bake to a light brown color. FERMENTED BREADS Weight for weight, bread must be considered one of the most nutritious of foods. The fact that more than three fifths of it consists of solid nutriment, and less than two fifths of water, gives it a special place in the list of foods ; and there are no animal foods, and but few cooked vege- table foods, that can be compared with it. In the study of the chemical composition of bread, we find that two thirds of the volume of a good loaf of bread is made up of gas; and of the solid part, less than forty per cent is water. Of the chemical constituents necessary f Water 38.4 '/, ^ Carbohydrates I 49.7 V GAS § Proteid 9.7 V f»t .9 1 M In. Mat 1.3 for proper nutrition, bread yields a large proportion of carbohydrates, a liberal amount of protein and mineral matter, and a small amount of fat, making it one of the most nutritious and well balanced articles of diet. "The common use of superfine white flour in bread making is neither healthful nor economical." While the white-flour products have a high total nutritive value, they are really an impoverished food; for in rejecting the germ and the bran, the miller discards some of the most FOOD AND COOKERY 63 useful constituents of wheat. With the germ, proteid and fat are lost; and when the outer layers of the wheat which are impregnated with mineral matter, are separated from the kernel, the bread is left almost void of these sub- stances, which are so indispensable to health. To the natural taste, there is something lacking, some- thing not satisfying, in white bread, but which is found in that made from the whole grain. This leaves a craving which many attempt to satisfy with rich pastries, meat spices, and condiments. Fine-flour bread is also a frequent cause of constipation and other unhealthy conditions. In order to make good bread, it is necessary to have good flour. The strength of a flour is determined by the quantity of gluten it contains. Gluten is the chief pro- teid of wheat. Its elastic qualities, when mixed with water, and acted upon by yeast, allow the gas formed to expand without danger of escape. A flour in which the gluten is strong and tenacious will resist a much stronger pressure of gas than one with scant or weak gluten. Simi- larly, the amount of water that should be used will vary with the strength of the flour; for the stronger the gluten in the flour, the more liquid it will absorb; and the softer the wheat, the less water will be needed. The best bread flour is in reality the cheapest, for it makes more and better bread than the same quantity of soft wheat flour. The best flour is of a cream white color; and when a handful is taken and squeezed, it will not retain the imprint of the fingers, but will fall like dry sand. Ordinary pastry or soft wheat flour, when handled in this way, will retain its shape in the hand. PRINCIPLES OF BREAD MAKING Fermented bread is usually made by mixing to a dough, flour, water, salt, and yeast, a small amount of sugar being added to hasten fermentation. The dough is then kneaded 5 — Food and Cookery 64 FOOD AND COOKERY until it is elastic to the touch and does not stick to the board, the object being to incorporate air and to distribute the yeast uniformly. It is then covered, and allowed to rise until it has doubled its bulk and does not respond to the touch, or when tapped sharply, gradually but stub- bornly begins to sink. At this stage, the dough is proofed (ripe), and is ready to be worked down, and will require all the way from two to three and a half hours, according to the grade or consistency of the flour used, and to the temperature of the room in which it is set, to rise. This process is best accomplished at a temperature ranging from 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. The bread is then worked down well, turned over in the bowl, and allowed to rise again until about half again its former bulk. It is then turned out on a lightly floured board, and kneaded a little to break the air bubbles, and to distribute evenly the gas formed. It is then molded into loaves and put into pans for baking. Bread should never be allowed to rise until it begins to fall of itself. At this stage, it has risen too much, and borders on sourness. There are three stages of fermenta- tion; namely, alcoholic, acetous, and putrefactive. Bread should be baked during the alcoholic stage'. If fermenta- tion is allowed to go on after the yeast has done its work, bacterial action begins which results in sour bread. It is very important to know when the bread is suffi- ciently light after it has been placed in the pans. It should never be allowed to rise to its limit before it is put into the oven, but should continue to rise for the first ten min- utes after it has been put into the oven. It is better if baked a little too soon than if allowed to rise too much. If ?t is allowed to rise too much, it will be coarse grained and tasteless. If the bread gets too light in the pans, it may be molded over again and allowed to rise as before. To test the lightness of the dough in the pans, press the loaf gently. If it responds promptly to the touch, it may FOOD AND COOKERY 65 be allowed to rise more. If it responds weakly, it should be put into the oven immediately. Bread made from whole wheat or Graham flour must not be allowed to go quite so far in the process of fermenta- tion as white bread, and should be watched closely during the successive stages of development, as it rises in less time than white bread. The coarse consistency of the whole grain allows the gas to escape more readily from the dough than from that made of a strong white flour. Entire whole wheat bre*ad is readily made from hard wheat flour — that is, from wheat which is grown where the summers are short and not too hot — with no white flour. The dough must be soft, and is a little more diffi- cult to handle; but all the mineral substances and vita- mines contained in wheat, and which are so essential to our well-being, are then retained in the bread, adding much to its flavor and wholesomeness. The Western wheat, also that grown farther south, is a soft wheat, and does not of itself make good bread, but may be combined with a strong gluten flour. Very often Graham or whole wheat flour is made from this kind of wheat, and is then used in bread making in the proportion of about one part Graham or whole wheat to two parts strong white bread flour. Bread is also made by setting a sponge at the beginning, making a batter of the water, yeast, and part of the flour, and letting it rise until the batter is charged with the yeast, then adding any other ingredients, as fruit and shortening for fruit bread, shortening for buns, or cracked grain for coarse bread, and working all into a dough. Ordinary white bread, whole wheat, and Graham are some- times made by the same process. A sponge is sufficiently light when it appears frothy and is full of bubbles. The time required will vary with the quantity and quality of yeast used, and the temperature of the room in which it is set to rise. 66 FOOD AND COOKERY As a general rule, with the best quality of bread flour, three measures of flour to one of water are required to make a dough of the proper consistency. For whole wheat or Graham bread, less flour is used to the same amount of liquid. The whole wheat and Graham flours used in the following recipes are made from Kansas hard wheat. BAKING Bread should be baked in a quick oven to begin with. The oven should not be so hot as to burn the outside of the loaf before the inside is cooked, but should be of such a temperature that the bread may rise for the first ten minutes, and then have sufficient crust to hold it up, when the fire should be closed up to hold a steady heat until the bread is done. For the small loaves, forty to forty-five minutes is generally sufficient; for the larger ones or those of ordinary size, one hour to an hour and a quarter. A well baked loaf may be lifted from the pan and placed upon the palm of the hand without burning it. This should always be the case when bread is well baked and the mois- ture evaporated. When done, remove from the pans and lay on the side on a wire rack to cool. If brushed over the top with warm water just after it is taken out of the oven, the crust of the bread will keep softer, and will have a nice color. YEASTS The most convenient yeast is that sold as compressed yeast. It should be used only when fresh. Its freshness may be determined by its light color and absence of dark streaks. When compressed yeast is not obtainable, very good bread is made from dried yeast, as in the following recipe. LIQUID YEAST 1 cake dried yeast 2 cups potato water % cup sugar Drain the water from mashed potatoes at noon; and when it is cooled to about 100 degrees, add the sugar, and (USE level measurements for all ingrements.) FOOD AND COOKERY 07 the yeast cake broken up. Put into a glass jar, and set in a warm place until evening. The liquid should measure two cups. MOTHER'S BREAD Night Sponge. — Add 3 cups of water to the above liquid yeast, having the liquid about the temperature of the room in which the bread is set to rise. Beat in 7 cups white bread flour to smooth batter. Cover, and if the weather is cold, wrap in cloth until the morning. Dough. — In the morning, add 3 tablespoonfuls salt, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls melted vegetable fat, and beat into the sponge. Add 1 cup more water, about 120 degrees F., pouring it in gradually, and stirring as it is poured in. This takes the chill off the sponge and hastens the rising of the bread. Add 8 cups entire whole wheat flour, and about 2% cups more of white flour, or enough to make a medium dough. Mix into a dough with a large spoon, and turn out on a lightly floured board. Rub off all particles of dough sticking to the sides and bottom of the dish, and knead until it is elastic to the touch, and does not stick to the board, using as little addi- tional flour as possible to keep the dough from sticking to the board. If the dough is kept in motion continuously, very little additional flour will be needed, and the knead- ing will require about eight minutes. Oil the bowl, and drop in the bread. Turn the dough over in the bowl so that the surface will be oiled, to keep a crust from drying on. Cover, and set in a warm room to rise until it doubles its bulk, and when tapped sharply, it gradually but stubbornly begins to sink. This will re- quire from one and one half to two hours or more, ac- cording to the temperature of the room and of the in- gredients. At this point, the dough is worked down well, turned over in the bowl, and let rise again until scarcely (USE level measurements for all ingredients.) 68 FOOD AND COOKERY half again its original bulk. It is then turned out on a lightly floured board, worked together well, molded into loaves, and put into pans for baking. In molding bread into loaves, it is very essential that each loaf be kneaded well. If the bread is put into the pans in soft loaves — that is, soft because they were not worked enough — the bread will rise flat on the top instead of rounded, and is likely to fall when put into the oven. Each loaf should be kneaded into a hard ball, then flattened down, and rolled up into a hard roll. Put into oiled pans, and brush over the top of each loaf with an oiled brush. Follow the in- struction in the preceding chapter for testing the lightness of the dough in the pans, temperature of oven, and length of time for baking. BRAN BISCUIT Take % of the bulk of the above dough after it has risen en masse the first time and been worked down. Add % cup warm molasses, and % cup scalded and warm rich cream (or % cup canned milk, and x k cup melted vege- table butter), and work into the dough until absorbed. Add 1V 2 cups bran, lightly toasted in the oven, and mix. Let rest until it begins to rise again — about 20 minutes. Then work together, turn out on floured board, and roll out about % inch thick with rolling-pin. Cut with biscuit cutter, and lay in an oiled baking pan. Let rise until about half again its original bulk, then bake in a quick oven. ENTIRE WHOLE WHEAT BREAD 3 cups warm water V2 cake compressed yeast 3 tablespoonfuls sugar 2 tablespoonfuls vegetable fat 1 tablespoonful salt 7 cups entire whole wheat flour, or enough to make a medium soft dough Dissolve the yeast in 2 teaspoonfuls water, add the liquid, salt, sugar, and fat, and mix in the flour to soft dough. Turn out on a floured board, and knead until (USE level measurements for all ingredients.) FOOD AND COOKERY (>9 elastic to the touch. Then put into an oiled bowl, cover, and set in a warm room to rise until when tapped sharply,* it begins to sink — about 2 hours or more. Then work to- gether, turn over in the bowl, and let rest until it begins to rise again, which will take about 20 minutes. Then mold into loaves, and put into pans for baking. Follow directions for proofing, molding, and baking, as given for ''mother's bread." WHEAT BREAD 3 cups whole wheat or Graham flour 2V 2 cups white bread flour 2 cups water Vz cake compressed yeast 1 tablespoonful salt 1 tablespoonful sugar 1 tablespoonful vegetable fat Dissolve the yeast in 2 teaspoonfuls water. Add the liquid, salt, sugar, and vegetable fat. Add the flours, and mix into a dough, reserving a handful of flour for the board. Turn out on the board, and knead until elastic to the touch. Then put into an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise until when tapped sharply, it begins to sink — about 3 hours or more. Then work down, turn over in the bowl, and let rest until it begins to rise again — about 30 minutes. Then work together, turn out on board, mold into loaves, and put into pans for baking. Follow directions for mold- ing, proofing, and baking as given for "mother's bread." RAISED CORN BREAD 3 cups water Vz cake compressed yeast 4 cups best bread flour 2 cups corn meal 1 tablespoonful salt 3 tablespoonfuls sugar 2 tablespoonfuls melted vegetable fat Sift the flour into a large bowl, leaving a space at one side of the flour for the sponge. Dissolve the yeast in 2 teaspoonfuls water, add 1 cup warm water, and pour on the side of the flour. Stir enough flour into this liquid to make a thin, smooth batter. Cover, and set in a warm place until light — about 1 hour. In order to incorporate enough moisture into the bread, so that it will not dry out after baking, put the corn meal into a small bowl, and pour on gradually, in a slow stream, 2 cups boiling water, (USE level measurements for all ingredients.) 70 FOOD AND COOKERY stirring as it is being poured in, and let stand half an hour. When the sponge is sufficiently light, add the salt, sugar, and vegetable fat, and mix well. Add the scalded and warm corn meal, and mix all into a soft dough. Turn out on a floured board, and knead until elastic to the touch. Then return to an oiled bowl, cover, let rise, and finish the same as for "mother's bread." RYE BREAD 2 cups warm water % cake compressed yeast l 1 /^ tablespoonfuls melted vegetable fat 1 tablespoonful brown sugar l 1 /^ tablespoonfuls salt 4 cups white bread flour 3 cups rye flour Dissolve the yeast in 2 teaspoonfuls water, add the liquid, and beat into this 3 cups white bread flour to smooth batter. Cover, and set in a warm room until light — about 2 hours. Add the salt, sugar, and oil, and beat into the sponge. Mix in the rye flour, and the remaining cup of white flour, reserving a handful of flour for the board, and mix to a dough. Turn out on the board, and knead until elastic to the touch. Then return to oiled bowl, cover, and let rise until when tapped sharply, it begins to sink. Work down well, turn over in the bowl, and let rest until half again its original bulk. Turn the dough out on the board, and roll out six buns, and lay in an oiled pie tin, to rise for "rye biscuit." Divide the remaining dough into two pieces, and roll out into the shape of ordinary rye bread loaves. Lay in an oiled baking pan, leaving space between. Brush over the surface of each loaf with oiled brush, cut three gashes across each loaf with a sharp knife, and let rise until light. Then bake in a quick oven. FRTJIT BREAD 2% cups warm water V2 cake compressed yeast X A cup vegetable fat % cup sugar 1 tablespoonful salt IVz cups- sultana raisins 6 cups entire whole wheat flour, or enough to make a medium soft dough Dissolve the yeast in 2 teaspoonfuls water, add the liquid, (use level measurements for all ingredients.) FOOD AND COOKERY 71 and beat into this 3 cups entire wheat flour to smooth batter. Cover, and set in a warm room until light — about l x /2 hours. Add the vegetable fat, sugar, and salt, and beat into the sponge. Have the raisins soaked overnight, and warmed. Mix all the ingredients to a medium soft dough, turn out on a lightly floured board, and knead until elastic to the touch. Then put into an oiled bowl, cover, and set in a warm room to rise until when tapped sharply, it begins to sink. Then work down, and let rest until it begins to rise again — about 15 minutes. Then mold into loaves, and put into pans for baking. Follow directions for proofing, molding, and baking as given in recipe for "mother's bread." STE1MED BROWN BREAD 1 cup scalded milk V 2 cake compressed yeast 1 cup Graham flour % cup corn meal (lightly toasted in the oven) V 2 cup rye flour V2 cup bran 1 teaspoonful salt % cup warm molasses 1 tablespoonful vegetable fat % cup sultana raisins Dissolve the yeast in 2 teaspoonfuls water, add the warm milk, and beat in the Graham flour to a smooth batter. Cover, and set in a warm room for 2 hours. Add the salt, warm molasses, and oil, and beat into the sponge. Have the raisins soaked overnight, and warmed. Mix all the ingredients with a heavy spoon until thoroughly mixed. Cover, and let rise until when tapped sharply, it begins to sink. Then work down well. Put at once into an oiled pail with tight-fitting cover, and steam for 2 hours. Turn out on an oiled pie tin, and bake in the oven for 15 minutes. . % cup of rye meal can be substituted for the rye flour and bran, when on hand. PARKER HOUSE ROLLS 1 cup scalded and warm milk V 2 cake compressed yeast 2Y2 cups bread flour 2 tablespoonfuls vegetable fat 2 tablespoonfuls sugar V2 teaspoonful salt Dissolve the yeast in 2 teaspoonfuls water, add the warm milk, and beat in 1 cup white flour to smooth batter. Cover, (use level measurements for all increments.) n FOOD AND COOKERY and set in a warm room for 2 hours. Add the salt, sugar, and fat, and beat into the sponge. Add the balance of the flour, reserving a handful for the board, and mix to a soft dough. Turn out on a floured board, and knead gently until elastic, being careful that it does not stick to the board. Put into an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise until when tapped, it begins to sink. Then work down well, and let rest until half again its original bulk. Work together, and turn out on a floured board. Divide into l 1 /^ -ounce pieces, then divide each piece into two. Roll out into small, round buns, and lay on a well floured board. When they have risen to nearly half again their original bulk, make a crease through the center, with a small roller the size of a broom handle. Oil one half, fold the other half over, and press together. Lay in an oiled baking pan, let rise until very light, then bake in a quick oven. SHORTCAKE Use the same ingredients as in the preceding recipe, except add 1 egg, slightly beaten, to the sponge when it is Jight, and this will require V2 cup more of flour. Mix to dough, and raise the same as the preceding. Roll out to Mi inch thickness, and lay in an oiled baking pan. Brush over with oil, and sprinkle with flour, then with sugar. Press down with a spoon so the particles of flour get moistened on the top. Let rise until very light, and bake in a quick oven. GLUTEN BISCUIT 4 cups bread flour 1% cups cold water Mix to a dough. Then break and pull apart until very elastic, and soak in water for % hour. Wash out the starch, changing the water, pouring the water off slowly, so as not to lose any of its gluten, until the water runs clear. Then let stand in cold water for from 5 to 6 hours (USE level measurements for all increments.) FOOD AND COOKERY 73 to ripen. Drain, cut into pieces about the size of a small egg, lay in an oiled tin, leaving plenty of space between, and bake until brown on the entire surface. DIABETIC BREAD (Strong in Gluten) Take the above "ripe" gluten, work in warm water to take off the chill, drain well, and put into a bowl. Dis- solve V2 cake compressed yeast in 1 tablespoonful water, add I tablespoonful flour, and make smooth. Work this into the gluten with y% teaspoonful salt. Then work in gradually 1 cup flour by pulling the gluten apart and dipping it into the flour, until all the flour is absorbed in the gluten. Then work in 2 tablespoonfuls melted vege- table fat in like manner. Put into an oiled bowl, cover, and set in a warm room to rise. When very light, work down, and let rest until it begins to rise again. Then mold into a loaf, and put into pan for baking. Let rise until light, and bake in a good oven! CUT ZWIEBACK Cut stale bread into slices about % of an inch thick, put into a shallow baking pan in single layers, and set in a slow oven until thoroughly dried. Then put into a moderate oven, and allow it to brown to a golden color through the entire thickness. PULLED ZWIEBACK Take fresh bread, break carefully, pulling into pieces instead of using pressure. The pieces should be about the size of a medium apple. Proceed to dry . and bake the same as for cut zwieback. (use level measurements for all increments.) SOUPS Soups may be divided into two classes: 1. Broths, or thin soups, to which are added cooked grains, or vegetables cut in various shapes and sizes for garniture, and to give variety and flavor. While these thin soups are lacking in the nourishment to be found in those made of more solid foods, they are valuable for the stimu- lating effect they have on the gastric juice; and when taken at the beginning of the meal and in small quantities, they aid in the digestion of the more solid foods. 2. Those which usually have as their basis cooked vege- tables, grains, or legumes, forced through a strainer, and thinned with the liquid in which they were cooked, or with milk or cream, or both. Like all other foods, soups require the action of the saliva for digestion, and when eaten slowly with some dry food, as sticks or croutons, are both ap- petizing and nourishing. VEGETABLE JULIENNE V2 medium sized potato X A cup carrot *4 cup turnip 1 tablespoonful chopped onion 1 stalk celery V2 cup cauliflowerets, or new peas, green string beans, or any fresh vegetable in season V2 small tomato 1 teaspoonful vegetable butter 2 cups vegetable broth 2 cups cold water Chopped parsley Salt to taste Cut all the vegetables into fine shreds, about %-inch lengths. Put all the vegetables except the parsley, tomato, and potato, into a saucepan, with the butter and 2 table- spoonfuls of water. Cover, and cook slowly over the fire, stirring often to keep the vegetables from scorching. Let simmer thus until the water is evaporated. Then add all the liquid, the potato and tomato, and salt to taste. Let boil gently until the vegetables are thoroughly done, add the chopped parsley, and serve. (use level measurements for all ingredients.) (74) FOOD AND COOKERY 75 VEGETABLE CHOWDER y± cup turnip cut into small dice % cup carrot % cup cabbage 1 stalk celery 2 tablespoonfuls chopped onion V2 cup potato A small piece of sweet bell pepper 1% tablespoonfuls browned flour 2 tablespoonfuls tomato IV2 tablespoonfuls vegetable butter A pinch of sage or thyme 4 cups water or vegetable broth Salt to taste Put the coarse vegetables into a saucepan, together with the butter, flour, sage, and salt. Cover, and let simmer for a few minutes, stirring now and then. Add the cold liquid, potato, and tomato, and let cook until thoroughly done. Finish with a little chopped parsley, and serve. FARMERS' FAVORITE % cup rich sour cream % cup macaroni raw 1 small onion 1 stalk celery X A cup finely diced carrot 1 cup diced potato Chopped parsley Salt Cook the cream down in a skillet, stirring constantly until the oil and the albumen separate and the albumen turns a light brown color. (The degree of browning de- termines the flavor of the soup.) Add the diced carrot, onion, and celery, and stir over the fire for a few minutes, but do not brown. Add three cups cold water, the diced potato, and salt, and let cook until the vegetables are thoroughly done. Drop the macaroni into three cups of boiling water, and cook until well done. Add the macaroni water to the vegetable soup. Then lay the macaroni on a board and cut into small rings. Drop into the soup, and boil up well. Add the chopped parsley, and serve. BEAN SOUP ARMY STYLE 1 cup navy beans 7 cups water % cup diced carrot % cup diced onion 1 tablespoonful vegetable butter Chopped parsley Salt to taste Wash the beans thoroughly, lift them out of the water, put into a saucepan with the cold water, and bring to a boil. Let simmer gently until thoroughly done. Add salt (USE level measurements for all ingredients.) 76 FOOD AND COOKERY while cooking. Put the diced carrot and onion into a saucepan, with the vegetable butter and V^ cup water, and let simmer until the water is absorbed, stirring often. Add 2 cups of broth from the beans, salt to taste, and let the vegetables simmer until well cooked. Add them to the bean soup, boil up well, add the chopped parsley, and serve. CREAM OF BARLEY Vz cup pearl barley (soaked in water overnight) 6 cups hot water 1 onion 1 carrot 1 stalk celery V-> teaspoonful salt 1 cup milk 1 tablespoonful vegetable butter Drain the barley, add the hot water, salt, whole onion, carrot, and celery, and cook until well done, and the liquid reduced to three cupfuls. Remove the onion and carrot with a silver fork. Then drain. Put % of the cooked grain into another vessel for garniture for the soup. Put the balance of the grain through a colander. Add the cooked barley, the milk, and the butter. Salt to taste, reheat, and serve. Cream may be used instead of the milk and butter. FAMILY POTATO SOUP 2 cups sliced raw potato 4 cups cold water 2 teaspoonfuls salt 1 teaspoonful chopped onion 1% tablespoonfuls vegetable butter 1 cup milk or thin cream Chopped parsley Put the water, potato, onion, and salt into a saucepan, and boil until the potato is well done and broken. Add the hot milk and the vegetable butter, and beat into the soup. Add the chopped parsley, and serve. LIMA BEAN SOUP 1 cup Lima beans G cupfuls water 1 onion 1 stalk celery Salt to taste Wash the beans, add the other ingredients, and let cook gently until extra well done. Remove the onion, and mash the beans through a colander, season with cream, or milk and vegetable butter, and serve with croutons. (use level measurements for all increments.) FOOD AND COOKERY 77 CREAM OF LETTUCE Wz cups sliced raw potato 3 cups cold water 1 cup shredded lettuce (pressed down) 1 V 2 teaspoonfuls salt IVz tablespoonfuls vegetable butter 1 tablespoonful chopped onion 2 cups hot milk Add the potato, onion, and salt to the water, and bring to a boil. When the potato is about half done, add the lettuce, and cook rapidly until the vegetable is well cooked. Mash through a colander. Add the butter to the hot milk ; mix well, and add to the soup. Put through a coarse strainer, salt to taste, and serve. If cream is used, omit the milk and butter. CREAM OF TOMATO NO. 1 2 cups tomato pulp 1% cups cream 1 tablespoonful flour Salt to taste Heat the tomato pulp gradually to the boiling point, and thicken slightly with the flour made smooth with cold water. Heat the cream in a double boiler. Then set on the table, and pour the tomato gradually into the cream, stirring meanwhile. Salt to taste, strain, and serve. CREAM OF TOMATO NO. 2 2 cups tomato pulp 1 cup water 2 teaspoonfuls vegetable butter 1 tablespoonful cream roast flour 1 cup canned milk Salt to taste Bring the tomato, water, and butter to a boil. Thicken slightly with the flour made smooth with cold tomato or water. Salt to taste, add canned milk (unheated), strain, and serve. CREAM OF GREEN PEAS NO. 1 Cook new peas in sufficient water to cover, adding salt to taste. Mash through a colander, add hot rich cream to suit, strain, and serve. (USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INCREMENTS.) 78 FOOD AND COOKERY CREAM OF GREEN PEAS NO. 2 Vz can green peas (drained) 1 cup water Vz teaspoonful salt Sprinkle of onion 1 tablespoonful vegetable butter 2 teaspoonfuls flour 1 cup hot milk Bring the water, peas, and onion to a boil, and let sim- mer for a few moments. Then rub through a colander. Rub the butter and flour together in a small saucepan, add a little of the hot milk, and stir smooth. Add the balance of the milk, and boil up, stirring constantly. Then add the peas, and salt to taste. Reheat, strain, and serve. CREAM OF CORN 1 cup corn pulp 1 cup water 1 cup hot milk 1 tablespoonful vegetable butter 2 teaspoonfuls flour Salt to taste Have the corn ground through a fine mill. Add the water, and let simmer gently for 15 minutes. Rub the butter and flour together in a small saucepan, add a little of the milk, and stir smooth. Add the rest of the milk, and boil up. Add the corn mixture, salt to taste, strain through a coarse strainer, and serve. CREAM OF VEGETABLE OYSTER 1 Vz cups sliced vegetable oysters 2 cups water 1 cup hot milk 1 tablespoonful vegetable butter 2 teaspoonfuls flour 1 *fa teaspoonfuls salt Wash and scrape the salsify, and drop into cold water. Slice very thin. Add the required water and salt, and boil until well done, and the liquid is reduced to about 1 cup. Take out % of the vegetable, to be used for gar- niture for the soup, and mash the remainder through a colander. Rub the butter and flour together in a small saucepan, add a little of the hot milk, and stir smooth. Add the remainder of the milk, and boil up. Add this to the mashed vegetable, and strain. Add the cooked vegetable oysters, reheat, and serve. (USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.) FOOD AND COOKERY 79 FRUIT SOUP NO. 1 1 cup water 2 tablespoonfuls sago 1 teaspconful lemon juice 1 cup blackberry or strawberry juice Sugar to taste Wash the sago in cold water, and drain well. Bring the water to a boil, add the sago, and cook gently until clear. Add the fruit juices, also hot, and sweeten to taste. Very nice served cold. FRUIT SOUP NO. 2 2 cups berry juice V2 cup stewed raisins 6 cooked prunes 3 tablespoonfuls sago Sugar to taste 2 cups water Wash the sago the same as for the preceding, and put to cook in two cups of hot water until the sago is clear. Stone and quarter the prunes, mix all the ingredients, and sweeten to taste. (USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREMENTS.) 6 — Food and Cookery GRAINS, NUT FOODS, ENTREES To those seeking to provide a balanced diet, a few sug- gestions may be helpful. In many homes, meat is regarded as the chief part of the meal ; and, naturally, foods that are prepared to take the place of meat are denominated "meat substitutes." A wrong impression often associated with the use of this word, is that meat is a standard by which to judge the merits of other foods that are to take its place in the dietary. The nutriment of meat being practically all protein, a well balanced meal is nearly impossible when meat is eaten. There is almost certain to be an excess of the protein ele- ment in such a meal. This excess of protein, as stated in a preceding chapter, tends to bring about early degeneracy of the human body and shorten life. Therefore our aim should not be to bring the percentage of protein up to that contained in meat; for this would only serve to defeat one of the main objects in view, — that of balancing the food elements in a meal. A comparison between the body and the locomotive en- gine serves as an illustration for studying the fuel value of foods. While iron is essential to keep the engine in repair, the greatest demand will be for fuel with which to heat the boiler. So in the vital economy, protein is es- sential for the growth and repair of tissue; but beyond this, it is inferior to carbohydrates and fats. And as dif- ferent kinds of wood and coal are capable of giving off dif- ferent degrees of heat, and also giving off that heat in longer or shorter periods of time, so different kinds of foodstuffs work in about the same way. Also, certain kinds of coal, after being burned, leave a residue of clinkers to be raked out of the furnace ; so when a person overeats of protein foods, there is an extra amount of work for the kidneys, to rid the system of accumulated poisons. (80) FOOD AND COOKERY 81 For practical purposes, it may be said that grains — wheat, rice, corn, oats — have an average nutritive value of over 80 per cent; legumes — dried peas, beans, lentils, and peanuts — about 85 per cent; nuts — almonds, filberts, walnuts — over 90 per cent; dried fruits — dates, figs, rai- sins — about 80 per cent. Thus we find in grains, fruits, and nuts, a basis for ample supply of all-round building food. The various nut foods on the market, composed chiefly of grains and nuts, contain the nutritive elements of food in a very concentrated form, and should not be eaten too freely, but should be combined with other foods. A few examples of how they may be made into appetizing dishes will be given in some of the following recipes. Other nut foods of a similar nature may be used in the place of the ones given, if desired. LEGUMES The most common representatives of this family which are used as foods are the various kinds of beans and peas, also lentils. Taking the world over, legumes are, next to cereals, the most valuable and the most extensively used among vegetable foods. They are found in all climates and all countries. The lentil is one of the most ancient of food plants. It has been grown from early times in Asia and the Mediterranean countries. Many people with weak digestion often experience dis- tress after eating boiled beans or peas. By the removal of the hulls, this trouble may be largely overcome; and in this manner, they may be made into a variety of dishes that are appetizing as well as nourishing. STEWED LIMA BEANS Pick the beans over, wash them thoroughly, and lift them from the water to remove any small pieces of grit that may be on the bottom of the kettle. Put them on the 82 FOOD AND COOKERY fire in cold water, bring to a boil, and skim. Add one tea- spoonful of vegetable oil to each two cups of beans, and let them boil gently until they are thoroughly done. Salt should be added during the cooking, to give them flavor. BAKED LIMA BEANS Soak 1 cup of Lima beans overnight, and in the morn- ing, slip off the skins between the thumb and the finger. Put them in a small baking pan with V 2 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls brown flour, 1 teaspoonful vegetable butter, and enough cold water to cover them. Put a pan over them, and set them into the oven to cook, adding a little water as needed, so they will not cook dry. When they are about done, remove the pan from the top, and let them brown nicely. Service for five persons. BROWNED BEAN PUREE 2 cups bean puree 3 tablespoonfuls rich cream 1 tablespoonful cream roast flour Salt Boil beans the same as for stewed Lima beans. Drain in a colander, saving the broth for soups or gravies. Mash through the colander, having them as dry as possible. Mix all ingredients, put into an oiled baking pan, brush over with a little thin cream or vegetable butter, and bake in a quick oven to a light brown color. Service for five per- sons. RIBBON BEAN LOAF 1 cup Lima bean puree 1 cup kidney bean puree 3 tablespoonfuls rich cream 2 tablespoonfuls cream roast flour Salt to taste Cook the beans separately until well done but not soft. Drain well, and mash through a colander, having the pulp as dry as possible. Add 1 tablespoonful of the cooked flour, 1 V2 tablespoonfuls of cream, and salt to each, and mix well. Place in alternate layers in a brick-shaped tin, and bake (USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INCREMENTS. ) FOOD AND COOKERY 83 in a moderate oven until hot through and a nice brown. Serve with cream tomato sauce or gravy. Service for eight. BEAN I'ATTIES 2 cups bean puree l V-z tablespoonfult vegetable batter 1 tablespooniul chopped onion '.', tablespoonfuUi flour l egg Scant '/3 cup hot milk A sprinkle of lage Halt to i. Cook the beans the same as in the preceding recipe, and mash through a colander, having the pulp as dry as po Bible. In case it is too soft, it may be put into the oven for a few minutes. Make a paste as follows, for holding the food together: Put the butter, onion, and savory into a small saucepan, and let simmer for a few moments, but do not brown. Add the flour, and mix; then the milk, and stir smooth. Add the egg, slightly broken up, and stir over the fire until smooth and a very thick paste. Salt to taste, and add the bean puree. Mix well, and let cool. Then roll out into small, round cakes about % inch thick, mark on the top with a knife, lay in an oiled baking pan, brush over with cream or milk, and brown lightly in a hot oven. aiCE \M> i;<.<- cup sugar 3 egg yolks 3 whole eggs Lemon flavor A few grains of salt Put the yolks and the whole eggs into a round-bottomed bowl, and set into a pan of boiling water, the same as for layer cake, and beat quickly until the mixture is blood warm or a little more. Then set the bowl on the table, and continue beating rapidly until the mixture is cold, and so thick that it will pile nicely when dropped from a spoon or a batter whip. Add the flavor, sift the flour again over the batter, and fold in lightly with a large spoon. Put into a pastry bag with a lady finger tube, and press out on a paper-lined pan, about Wz inches in length, and about the size of a pencil or a crayon, leaving space between. Dust over thickly with powdered sugar, and bake on the top grate in a quick oven, to a light brown color. When they are cooled off, turn the paper upside (use level measurements for all ingredients.) 124 FOOD AND COOKERY down on the table, and wet the paper with cold water on the bottom side. Turn right side up again, and let rest about 2 minutes. Then remove the cakes, and stick them together. ICINGS AND FILLINGS BOILED FROSTING % cup sugar % cup water White of 1 egg Flavor Dissolve the sugar in the water, and continue to stir until it boils. Then let boil undisturbed until a long, hair- like thread will blow from a spoon dipped in the sirup and lifted. Pour it in a slow stream into the beaten white, beating as it is being poured in. Add flavoring, and beat until light and creamy, and cold enough to spread on cake. PLAIN ICING Add confectioner's sugar (powdered sugar) to a small amount of light-colored fruit juice, — pineapple, pear and lemon, or lemon juice and water. Stir in enough sifted sugar to form a consistency to spread on cake. This icing will not dry out as quickly as boiled icing, and it forms a crust over the surface very readily. ORNAMENTAL FROSTING For lettering and ornamenting a cake, use the following : Beat one white of egg until frothy but not stiff. Add sifted powdered sugar gradually, beating constantly un- til so thick that it will not run on a plate. Make a small funnel of a good grade manila paper. Put a teaspoonful of the frosting into the funnel, cut a little piece off the point of the funnel, and press out the sugar in the form of letters and simple decorations. In making roses and leaves for a decoration, the frosting must be stiff enough to hold up when pressed, out, to retain the shape of leaves, etc. (use level measurements for all ingredients.) FOOD AND COOKERY 125 STRAWBERRY FILLING 1 cup crushed strawbei-ries V2 cup heavy cream Sugar to taste Whip the cream, and fold in the sweetened and crushed berries. Spread between cakes. ORANGE FILLING V 2 cup orange juice Grated rind of V 2 orange 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice 1 teaspoonful vegetable butter V2 cup sugar 2 tablespoonfuls flour A few grains salt 1 egg yolk Mix the flour and the sugar together. Add a little of the juices to the flour and sugar, and stir smooth. Add the yolk, slightly beaten, a few grains of salt, and the butter, and mix. Add the orange rind and the rest of the juices, and heat gradually, stirring constantly until it thickens. Then cool, and spread between layers. This filling must not be cooked more than necessary to thicken, or the acid will cut the starch and thin the mixture. LEMON FILLING Juice and rind of 1 large lemon 1 cup powdered sugar 2 eggs A pinch of salt Beat the eggs. Add the lemon juice, salt, rind, and sugar. Stir over the fire until it thickens. Let cool, and spread between layers. (use level measurements for all ingredients.) SALADS AND DRESSINGS Salads, composed chiefly of green, tender vegetables, or fruits and nuts, and served with a dressing, are valuable as a means of supplying fat. They are also valuable for their mineral salts. When carefully prepared and daintily served, salads are among the most appetizing adjuncts of a meal, and owe much of their food value to this very attractiveness. Plain salads that require oil and lemon juice for dress- ing should not be prepared until the moment they are wanted. Should they be mixed long before they are served, the lettuce will be found flabby, and the dressing watery and insipid. Garnishing or decorating salads is important, inasmuch as the most deliciously blended salad will not be appreci- ated unless it is attractive in appearance. Wild flowers neatly arranged with alternate tufts of green are pretty during summer. In cold weather, garnish with pretty designs cut from beets, turnips, radishes, carrots, etc. DRESSINGS MAYONNAISE DRESSING Yolk of 1 egg 1% tablespoonfuls lemon juice % teaspoonful salt 1 cup olive or refined cottonseed oil Beat the yolk. Add the oil drop by drop to begin with, then increase as it gets started, adding now and then a little lemon juice to thin the dressing to proper consistency. Add salt last, as it has a tendency to "break" the mayon- naise when added to the yolk at the beginning. BOILED DRESSING Vs cup cream V 2 teaspoonful cornstarch 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice 2 teaspoonfuls vegetable butter 1 egg yolk Salt to taste Heat the cream in a double boiler. Rub the starch smooth with a little cold milk, and stir into the hot cream. (use level measurements for all ingredients.) (126) FOOD AND COOKERY 127 Cover, and let cook for 10 minutes. Beat the yolk, add the butter and lemon juice, and mix well. Pour the hot cream gradually into the yolk mixture, stirring as it is being poured in. Then return to the fire, and continue stirring until of the right thickness. Salt to taste, and let cool. CREAM MAYONNAISE Whip V± cup heavy cream slightly. Add to the boiled dressing and an additional spoonful of lemon juice. FRENCH DRESSING A few grains of salt \ x k tablespoonfuls olive or cottonseed oil Scant tablespoonful lemon juice V2 teaspoonful grated onion Dissolve the salt in the oil with a spoon. Add the in- gredients in the order given, and beat with a spoon to emulsify the liquids. Use immediately. CREAM DRESSING V2 cup thick cream 3 tablespoonfuls lemon juice 1 tablespoonful sugar Salt Whip the cream until quite thick but not stiff. Then add sugar, salt, and lemon juice, and serve. GOLDEN FRCIT SAUCE % cup pineapple juice or orange juice 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice 3 tablespoonfuls sugar 1 teaspoonful cornstarch 1 egg yolk A few grains of salt Put the juices into a small saucepan, and bring to a boil. Mix the starch with the sugar, and add enough of the fruit juice to mix smooth. Beat the yolk slightly, and add to the sugar and starch mixture. Then pour in gradually the hot liquid, stirring as it is being poured in. Stir on the edge of the stove until it thickens, but do not boil, or the acid will neutralize the starch. Add a few grains of salt, and let cool. (USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.) 9 — Food and Cookery 128 FOOD AND COOKERY VEGETABLE SALADS LETTUCE AND TOMATO SALAD Arrange lettuce leaves on a plate. Have a ripe tomato peeled and cooled. Lay on lettuce leaves. Run a sharp knife across the middle of the tomato, cutting it nearly in two, then crosswise, so that the four quarters fall back, yet hold together underneath. Drop a teaspoonful of salad dressing into the center of the tomato, and serve. POINSETTIA TOMATO Select a small ripe tomato, wash, and wipe with a cloth. With a sharp-pointed knife, cut through the skin, from the stem end, across the tomato, dividing the skin into about 8 parts, so as to resemble poinsettia leaves. Run the blade of a penknife under each leaf, and pull it back on the plate, until all the leaves lie on the plate, and attached to the tomato stem. Cut the tomato crosswise the same as in the previous recipe, and serve with mayonnaise. STUFFED TOMATO Pour boiling water over ripe tomatoes. Pour it off again immediately, and replace with cold water. Remove the skins. Take medium small tomatoes, hollow out care- fully, and fill the cavity with finely diced celery and cu- cumber, seasoned with grated onion and salad dressing. Serve on lettuce leaf. TOMATO EN SURPRISE Scald and peel a tomato. Cut off a liberal slice from the blossom end, which must be kept for covering. Hollow out the center of the tomato, and turn upside down in a dish to drain. Cut cooked asparagus tips into half-inch lengths, season with mayonnaise, and refill the cavity in the tomato. Cover with the slice of tomato, and serve on lettuce leaf. (USE level measurements for all ingredients.) FOOD AND COOKERY 129 POTATO SALAD Cold boiled potato Chopped or grated onion Hard-boiled egg Chopped parsley Boiled dressing Peel the potatoes, quarter lengthwise, and slice very thin. Add chopped onion and parsley, sprinkle with salt, and season with boiled dressing. To dish up, pile on a platter or a plate in oblong shape, having the salad piled high and narrow, leaving the sides of the plate vacant for garnitures. Garnish with lettuce, and hard-boiled egg cut into quarters, at each side, and sliced boiled beet cut into fancy shapes, at each end of salad and on top. ITALIAN SALAD 1 cup cooked macaroni cut into small rings Y2 cup diced celery % cup finely diced carrot Vz cup cooked green peas 2 teaspoonfuls grated onion Mayonnaise or boiled dressing Mix all ingredients, season with dressing, and serve on lettuce leaf. NUT AND CELERY SALAD Yz cup diced nut loaf or nuttose V2 cup diced celery Put the diced nut food into an oiled pie tin, and brown lightly in the oven, stirring often to prevent scorching. Add to the diced celery, and season with boiled dressing and a little chopped or grated onion. Serve on lettuce leaf. MACEDOINE SALAD V2 cup diced boiled potatoes *4 cup diced boiled carrots M cup diced boiled turnips Vz cup green peas 1 teaspoonful grated onion Mix all ingredients, and season with boiled dressing. BEAN SALAD V2 cup cold boiled beans V2 cup diced celery V 2 cup diced lettuce 1 teaspoonful grated onion Mix all ingredients, and season with mayonnaise or boiled dressing. (USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.) 130 FOOD AND COOKERY EGG SALAD Dice hard-boiled eggs, season with boiled dressing, serve on a bed of lettuce, and sprinkle with chopped parsley. COLD SLAW Select crisp, tender cabbage. Cut through lengthwise, then through each half, and remove the solid part. Shred very fine with a sharp knife. Season with grated or chopped onion, salt, and lemon juice, or mix with cream dressing or cream mayonnaise. BEET AND EGG % cup diced boiled beets 1 hard-boiled egg diced 1 teaspoonful chopped onion Mix all ingredients, and season with mayonnaise or boiled dressing. WATER LILY SALAD Cut a hard-boiled egg through lengthwise. Mash half of the yolk through a strainer. Put the other half yolk into a dish, and mash up with a fork, adding enough boiled dressing to season well. Cut each half of the cooked white into three pieces lengthwise, to represent petals. Arrange on a plate of lettuce. Place a spoonful of the yolk mixture in the center, sprinkle the crumbed yolk over the salad, and serve. COMBINATION SALAD Sliced tomato Sliced cucumber Sliced green onion Sliced radishes Lettuce French dressing Pare the vegetables, slice very thin, and put into a bowl. Tear the lettuce into large pieces, add to the vegetables, and set on ice if available. Just before serving, pour over enough French dressing to season, using it scantily. CUCUMBER SALAD % cup sliced cucumber Vz cup thinly sliced boiled potato 1 tablespoonful chopped sweet bell peppers 1 teaspoonful grated onion Pare the cucumbers, slice thin, and put into ice water slightly salted, for half an hour. Then drain, and wring (use level measurements for all increments.) FOOD AND COOKERY 131 out in cloth. Mix all ingredients, season with a small quantity of French dressing, and serve on lettuce leaf. SWEET POTATO SALAD 1 cup diced boiled sweet potatoes 2 stalks crisp celery cut into dice 2 teaspoonfuls each of chopped onion and sweet bell pepper Chopped parsley Mix all ingredients, and season with French dressing the same as the above. SLICED BEETS IN LEMON 1 cup water Vz cup lemon juice 2 tablespoonfuls sugar 1 teaspoonful salt 1 bay leaf Boiled beets Add the salt, sugar, and lemon juice to the water, and bring to a boil. Slice the cooked beets into the hot liquid, add the bay leaf, cover with a plate so as to keep the beets submerged in the liquid, and let cool. A hard-boiled egg may be put whole into the bowl with the sliced beets, and served with a sprig of green leaves stuck into one end for garniture, if desired. STRING BEAN SALAD Use canned or freshly cooked string beans. Drain well, and season with chopped onion and French dressing. FRUIT SALADS STIFFED DATE SALAD Remove the pits from washed dates, refill each with a half walnut meat, and press together. Put into a salad bowl, and wet with lemon juice. Let stand 15 minutes, then serve on lettuce leaf. FRUIT BASKET Select medium sized, well colored oranges. Hold an orange between the thumb and the first finger, letting the (use level measurements for all ingredients.) 132 FOOD AND COOKERY side of the orange rest on the table. With a small, pointed knife, start in the middle of the orange, and run the blade about 2 inches into the center, then again and again, all the way around, in such a manner that the orange will part in two halves, leaving the edge ruffled with small points of peel, like the teeth of a coarse saw. Run the point of the knife around each half, near the peel. Then with a teaspoon, dip out the fruit in one piece. Cut the orange center into small cubes, to which add equal quantities of diced banana and pineapple, and a few ripe strawberries if available. Add fruit sauce to season, and fill the orange shells, having them well rounded with fruit. Serve on a white plate, with three small orange leaves or lettuce leaf for garniture. FRUITS AND NUTS V2 cup diced oranges V2 cup diced bananas Vz cup diced pineapple Chopped walnuts Mix the fruits, and season with fruit sauce. Dish up on a lettuce leaf, and sprinkle chopped walnuts over the top. CROWN PRINCE SALAD Line a small plate with crisp lettuce. Take slices of orange, and dispose around the side of the dish. Fill in with sliced banana, pineapple cut into large pieces, orange cut likewise, and ripe strawberries. Pile the fruit high, and pipe whipped cream on top and sides with pastry bag, to represent a crown. FRUIT SALAD Cut equal quantities of orange, pineapple, banana, and mellow apple into small dice. Season with fruit sauce or cream mayonnaise, and serve on lettuce leaf. A few ripe strawberries when in season improve the combination. (use level measurements for all ingredients.) FOOD AND COOKERY 133 WALDORF SALAD % cup finely diced apples Vz cup diced celery Chopped walnuts Cream mayonnaise dressing Mix the apples with the dressing first, to keep them from turning dark. Mix all the ingredients, adding the walnuts just before serving, so as to avoid turning the salad a dark color. Serve on lettuce leaf, with a bit of dressing on the top. RIBBON APPLE SALAD Select small, fine-grained red apples. Core and pare, leaving the skin in the shape of a ring near the stem end of the apple. Remove some of the inner portion of the apple, being careful not to break the shell. Fill the cavity with equal quantities of finely diced celery and apple, sea- soned with cream mayonnaise. Put a small funnel of crisp lettuce in the top of the apple, into which drop a teaspoon- ful of dressing. Serve on apple leaves or lettuce leaf. RAISIN SALAD Vi cup seeded raisins, sliced % cup finely diced apple Prepare the raisins first, then the apples. Mix, and sea- son with cream mayonnaise dressing. Serve on lettuce leaf. (use level measurements for all ingredients.) TOASTS AND BREAKFAST DISHES Toasts are especially nice for breakfast. They are a light food, yet appetizing and nourishing. STRAWBERRY TOAST Bring fresh strawberries to the boiling point with enough sugar to sweeten. When done, dip a piece of zwieback into the juice to soften, lay the toast on a platter, and cover with strawberries. Pour a spoonful of juice over all, and serve. The juice may be thickened a little with corn- starch if desired, before dishing up. CREAM TOAST Moisten zwieback in hot thin cream, lay on platter, pour a spoonful more of cream over, and serve. PRUNE TOAST Rub well cooked prunes through a fine colander. Add enough of the prune juice to make it of the consistency to spread on toast and not run off. Reheat, and dip a slice of zwieback in hot milk or prune juice to soften, lay on a platter, and cover with the prune pulp. CREAM PEAS ON TOAST % cup green pea pulp *4 cup thin cream Salt to taste Bring the peas to a boil, drain off the liquid, and mash the peas through a colander, having them separate from the liquid in which they were cooked. Add the hot cream and salt to taste. Reheat, dip a piece of zwieback in hot milk to soften, lay on a platter, and cover with cream peas, which should be thick enough not to run off. (USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.) (134) FOOD AND COOKERY 135 SUL.TANA TOAST Dip toasted triscuit or zwieback into hot cream, lay on a platter, cover with a large spoonful of stewed raisins, and place a spoonful of whipped cream on top if available. WALNUT CREAM TOAST 1 cup hot milk 1V 2 tablespoonfuls vegetable butter Chopped walnuts 1 Vz tablespoonfuls cream roast flour Salt to taste Rub the flour and the butter together in a small sauce- pan. Add % cup milk, and stir smooth. Add the remain- der of the milk, and boil up. Salt to taste. Dip a slice of zwieback into hot milk to soften, lay on a platter, and spread over with a spoonful of cream sauce. Sprinkle finely chopped walnuts over the cream toast, and serve immediately. CREAM TOMATO TOAST Dip a slice of zwieback in hot milk or tomato juice, lay on a platter, and cover with a spoonful of cream tomato sauce. NUT AND POTATO HASH 2 cups diced cold boiled potatoes V2 cup hot milk 1*4 tablespoonfuls chopped onion IVz tablespoonfuls vegetable butter V2 cup diced nut cero or cold baked dressing cut into dice 1 tablespoonful light browned flour Salt A sprinkle of sage Put 1 tablespoonful of butter, the onion, and the sage into a small saucepan, and stir over the fire for a few moments. Add the browned flour, then a small quantity of the milk, and stir smooth. Add the rest of the milk, and boil up. Salt to taste, and add the nut cero to the gravy. Sprinkle the potatoes with a little salt. Then pour over them the hot mixture, and mix lightly. Put into an oiled baking pan, sprinkle a little cream or small bits of vege- table butter over the top, and bake to a light brown color. Vegetable stock or hot water may be used instead of milk if desired, a little rich cream being added to the roux. (USE level measurements for all ingredients.) 136 FOOD AND COOKERY MASHED POTATO CAKES Take the duchess potato mixture, page 108, roll into small, round cakes, mark on top with a knife, lay in an oiled baking pan, brush over with cream, and bake on the top grate of a hot oven, to a nice brown. CREAMED POTATO 2 cups chopped cold boiled potatoes Salt 1 cup cream or 1 tablespoonful vegetable butter added to 1 cup milk Put the cream, or the milk and butter, on the fire, and when it comes to a boil, add the potatoes, with salt to taste. Let them simmer, stirring now and then until they are creamy and begin to thicken. Then put them on the top grate of a medium oven to brown lightly. SCRAMBLED EGG WITH NEW TOMATO Scald and peel two medium sized ripe tomatoes, cut them into quarters, and put on the stove in a small covered saucepan. Add a little salt, and bring to a good boil. Turn them into a colander, and drain off the juice. Then add 1 teaspoonful vegetable butter, and reheat. Have a skillet oiled. When hot, break in 2 eggs. Stir quickly, so they will cook evenly. When they are soft cooked, add the tomatoes, mix lightly, and serve on toast. PLAIN OMELET 1 egg 1 tablespoonful milk Salt Beat the yolk until thick, add the milk, and mix well. Add a few grains of salt to the white, and beat until stiff. Fold the yolk mixture into the white, and turn into a hot oiled frying pan. Put into the oven, and bake until barely set. Then, while it is still in the pan, turn one half of the omelet over the other half by slipping a knife under one side and turning it over the other section. Invert on a hot platter, and serve at once. (USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.) FOOD AND COOKERY 137 COOKED GRAINS General Rules for Cooking Grains. — Add salt to boiling water in the inside part of a double boiler. Add the dry grains slowly to the boiling water, stirring constantly. Let boil undisturbed until the cereal begins to thicken. Then put on the cover, and set into the outside part of the double boiler, which should be filled a third full of boiling water. Cook slowly, covered, for 3 hours or more, and keep up the quantity of water in the outside boiler if this should boil away. Cereal cooked in the fireless cooker, of course, needs no further attention after the compartment is covered. Dates or steamed raisins lightly stirred in, a few minutes before the cereal is removed from the fire, make a pleasing variety. ROLLED OATS % cup rolled oats 2 cups boiling water V2 teaspoonful salt Follow general rules for cooking grains, as given above. CORN MEAL MUSH V2 cup corn meal lightly toasted in the oven 1% cups boiling water. *4 teaspoonful salt Follow directions, and cook the same as rolled oats. STEAMED NATURAL RICE V2, cup natural brown rice 1% cups hot water Wash the rice in several waters, drain, add the boiling water, and let boil until the water is evaporated and the rice looks dry. Then cover, let stand on the edge of the stove to steam for 15 minutes, and serve. CREAMED RICE Add sufficient hot cream, or milk and a little butter, to the above cooked rice to make it creamy, but not too soft. Reheat and serve. (USE level measurements for all ingredients.) 138 FOOD AND COOKERY BANANA RICE Slice two bananas into the above hot creamed rice. Cover, let stand five minutes, and serve. STEAMED WHEAT 1 cup cleaned wheat 5 cups hot water \i teaspoonful salt Wash the wheat in several waters, and let soak over- night. Drain, add the salt and the hot water, and let boil over the fire for half an hour. Then set into a fireless on a hot stone overnight. In the absence of a fireless, cook 'he same as steamed rice. STEAMED PEARL BARLEY V2 cup pearl barley 2V 2 cups hot water Yi teaspoonful salt Soak the barley in cold water overnight, drain, add the hot water and the salt, and cook the same as for steamed wheat. GRANO CEREAL WITH DATES 1 cup boiling water Y2 cup grano cereal 6 dates A few grains of salt Sprinkle the cereal into the boiling water, and stir until thick. Add the stoned and quartered dates, mix, and serve with cream. BROWNED RICE Y2 cup natural rice 1% cups boiling water Put the rice into a small frying pan, and stir over the fire until a very light brown color. Add the boiling water, and cook the same as for steamed natural rice. PARCHED CORN GRITS Parch the corn the same as directed in the recipe on page 53, and grind through a coarse mill. Put 3^ cups of water into a small pail, add V2 teaspoonful salt, and bring to a boil. Sprinkle into this boiling water 1 cupful (USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.) FOOD AND COOKERY 139 of the grits. Let boil over the fire for 15 minutes. Then set on a hot stone in a fireless overnight. FETER1TA GRITS Feterita is one of the newest grain crops introduced into America, having been brought to America through the agency of the Department of Agriculture. Feterita grows readily in the southwest, owing to its drouth-resisting qualities. It resembles the Kafir corn and milo maize, but is somewhat softer, and for this reason, gives better satis- faction in cooking. Analysis shows that feterita closely resembles corn in composition, and has a nutritive value practically as high as has corn. For breakfast cereal, prepare and cook as follows: Put into a baking pan, and toast lightly, to set the kernel. Grind through a coarse mill, and use the same proportion of the grain and the water, and cook in the same manner, as for parched corn grits. SANDWICHES In a family where lunches have to be put up, it is a very important matter to know how these lunches may be prepared in a wholesome manner. For making sandwiches, the bread should be reasonably fresh, should be cut thin and even, and spread scantily with butter. Then spread filling on one slice, place the other slice over, and cut into desired size and style. NUT AND JELLY Add chopped walnuts to jelly, and spread on buttered bread. NUT BUTTER AND OLIVE Dissolve the nut butter with cold water to thick cream. Add chopped olives. Serve a leaf of lettuce and mayon- naise between slices if desired. NUT AND TOMATO Mash equal parts of nuttolene and tomato to a paste with a fork. Season. Serve with lettuce leaf and mayon- naise. EGG SANDWICH Chop hard-boiled eggs very fine, season with mayon- naise, and serve with lettuce leaf. BEAN SANDWICH Spread bean puree on buttered bread, using lettuce and mayonnaise dressing. TOMATO SANDWICH Peel tomatoes, slice thin, and serve with mayonnaise. EGG AND TOMATO Scramble eggs soft. Add an equal quantity of stewed, drained tomatoes. Mix well, let cool, and use. (140) FOOD AND COOKERY 141 DATE AND NUT Grind walnuts and dates through a mill. Season with lemon juice. HONEY AND NUT Use V2 cup honey, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. Add chopped walnuts to make stiff paste. RAISIN SANDWICH Chop Vz cup seeded raisins and V 2 cup walnuts very fine. Add IV* tablespoonfuls mayonnaise and V2 teaspoon- ful lemon juice. Mix into paste, and spread on thinly but- tered bread. NUT AND FRUIT Grind equal parts or steamed dried figs and seeded rai- sins together through a mill or chop fine. Add enough chopped walnuts to spread nicely on bread. Season with lemon juice. LEGUME SANDWICH Slice cold "savory vegetable loaf" (page 85) into thin slices. Lay on slices of buttered bread. Cover with a lettuce leaf and salad dressing if available. Cut and serve. CUCUMBER SANDWICH Slice cucumbers thin. Add grated onion and salt to taste. Butter the bread thinly. Fill between slices with cucumber, lettuce leaf, and mayonnaise or salad dressing. (USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.) COOKERY FOR THE SICK Invalid cookery deals with the preparation of foods that will sustain life with as little demand as possible upon the digestion, and also the selection of those foods which will furnish material for rebuilding and repairing waste, again without laying too much burden on the digestion. While the invalid's meal should generally be of a simple nature, there should be the greatest daintiness in serving it, and an effort should be made to create a desire for food to replace the distaste that often exists. The tray should be covered with spotless linen, should be carefully laid, and should not have the appearance of be- ing overcrowded. Appearance, quantity, and temperature must all be considered when the tray is prepared, as well as the ease of eating. The temperature of the food has a marked influence on digestion. Therefore a few general rules for serving food to the sick may be of value, as follows : 1. Serve hot dishes as hot as possible, and cold dishes as cold as consistent with digestion. 2. If food must be carried some distance to a patient, devise means of keeping it hot en route. 3. Always heat cups and plates before using them to serve any hot food. 4. Bring to the invalid, at each meal, only the quantity that is likely to be eaten, so far as can be judged. A large amount may so discourage a faint appetite that nothing will be eaten. 5. Nutritive Value. — The nurse should be a student of the classification of foods, their fuel value and digestibility, thus being able to regulate the needed rations for her patients. 6. So far as possible, let the element of pleasant surprise enter into the planning of the invalid's meal. The break- er FOOD AND COOKERY 143 fast tray should be made as attractive as possible. A few bright flowers will make it look cheery and inviting. The diet prescribed for patients who are very ill is usually altogether liquid, while a less rigid diet is known as "light diet"; and the food for convalescents includes the most nourishing and easily digestible foods to be found. Gruels, in which the starches are prepared by long, slow, and very thorough cooking, should be carefully sea- soned, and of a consistency to be taken through a siphon. OATMEAL. GRUEL Vt cup oatmeal 2 cups water A few grains of salt Cream or milk if desired Sprinkle the oatmeal into the boiling water, and let it continue to boil until it begins to thicken slightly. Then set into a double boiler, and let cook for 2 hours. Strain through a fine strainer, and dilute it with a little hot water if it is too thick. Reheat, and season with cream if de- sired. CORN MEAL GRUEL 3 tablespoonfuls corn meal 2 cups boiling water A few grains of salt Prepare and finish the same as for oat gruel. GLUTEN GRUEL 1 cup boiling water 2 tablespoonfuls gluten meal A few grains of salt Sift the gluten slowly into the boiling water, stirring briskly to avoid having it form into lumps. Let it boil until of the desired thickness. A little cream may be added before serving, if desired. GRANOSE GRUEL 1 granose biscuit 1 % cups boiling water A few grains of salt Cook, strain, and serve the same as gluten gruel. (use level measurements for all ingredients.) 10 — Food and Cookery 144 FOOD AND COOKERY RICE WATER 2 tablespoonfuls rice 2 cups cold water A few grains of salt Cream or milk if desired Wash the rice, and put into the cold water. Heat gradually to the boiling point, and let it continue to cook until the rice is soft. Strain. Reheat the rice water. Add a little milk or cream if desired. BARLEY AVATER 3 tablespoonfuls barley 1 quart cold water Wash the barley, and let it soak overnight. Change the water and rinse thoroughly. Add 1 quart of water, and let it cook until the liquid measures 1 cupful. Serve plain, or seasoned with a few grains of salt and a little cream if desired. TOAST WATER 2 slices stale bread 1 cup boiling water Cut bread into %-inch slices, and remove the crusts. Put into a baking pan, and bake in a slow oven until thoroughly dried and well browned. Break into pieces, add water, cover, and let stand 1 hour. FLAXSEED TEA M cup flaxseed 2 cups boiling water 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice Wash the flaxseed in cold water. Drain well. Add boiling water, and let boil gently for 1 hour. Strain, add lemon juice and a little sugar if desired, and serve. HOT MALTED MILK 1 heaping tablespoonful malted milk 1 cup water A few grains of salt First add a little warm water to malted milk to make a smooth paste. Add boiling water, beat well, and serve. (USE LEVEL MEASUREMENTS FOR ALL INGREDIENTS.) FOOD AND COOKERY 145 ALBUMENIZED WATER White of 1 egg V2 cup water Stir the white of the egg (using a silver fork), that the albumen may easily dissolve as the water is added gradu- ally. Add a few grains of salt, strain, and serve. LEMON ALBUMEN White of 1 egg 1 tablespoonful lemon juice Chipped ice % glass water Put the white of the egg and a little chipped ice into a glass. Beat slightly with a fork to break and coagulate the egg. Add lemon juice and water, mix well, and serve. ALBUMENIZED MILK 1 cup milk White of 1 egg Sterilize and cool the milk. Put into a glass jar with the white of the egg, and shake until the two are blended. A speck of salt may be added if desired. PEPTONIZED MILK 1 tube Fairchild's peptonizing powder V 2 cup cold water 1 pint fresh milk Put the powder into a sterilized quart bottle, add water, and shake until the powder is dissolved. Then add the milk, shake well, and set into a vessel of water about 115 degrees F., and keep at that temperature for 10 minutes. Serve immediately. Put the remainder on ice to check artificial digestion. FRUIT EGGNOG Vs cup grape juice or prune juice 1 egg separated A sprinkle of sugar if desired Beat the egg yolk and white separately. Add the sugar if needed, and the fruit juice, to the beaten yolk, and mix well. Finish and serve the same as for cream eggnog. (use level measurements for all ingredients.) 146 FOOD AND COOKERY CREAM EGGNOG 1 egg separated V2 cup thin cream A sprinkle of sugar 4 or 5 drops of vanilla flavor Beat the yolk until light colored and foamy. Beat the white stiff. Add the sugar, the vanilla, and a speck of salt to the beaten yolk. Then mix in the cream, and fold into the beaten white of the egg, reserving a spoonful of white for the top of the glass. JUNKET 1 pint milk about 100° F. V 2 junket tablet A sprinkle of sugar 1 teaspoonful cold water Vanilla flavor to taste Dissolve the tablet in the cold water, mix with the pint of warm milk, and let stand in a warm place until set. LEMON WHEY 1 cup milk }4 cup lemon juice Add lemon juice to milk, and mix. Let stand 10 minutes, or until it curdles. Strain through cloth, and serve. BAKED BANANA Select firm, rather underripe bananas, put them into a hot oven without removing the skins, and bake until the skins burst. Serve at once in a folded napkin. JELLIED EGG Put 1 pint of water into a small saucepan, and bring to a boil. Drop 1 egg into the water with a spoon, and set the vessel on the table for 7 minutes. If more eggs are added, water must be increased proportionately. It is a very common error to serve the sick with fresh- made toast of bread that has been quickly browned on both sides and served hot. This makes the bread practically as indigestible as fresh-baked bread. Zwieback may be heated, served dry, or moistened with hot milk or water; and being thoroughly dextrinized, it is very easily digested. Eggs, when cooked and served to the sick, should as a rule be soft cooked, — poached or soft boiled, curdled, or scrambled with a little milk. (use level measurements for all ingredients.) FRUIT ICES AND ICE CREAM Fruit ices and ice cream are often recommended by physicians for particular cases. The following suggestions on the use of ices and ice cream, by a physician of long practical experience, will be a help to the nurse or the mother : "Fruit ice is a very useful article of food for those who are suffering with a gastritis where there is an absence of hydrochloric acid. It has the effect of reducing the in- flammatory condition, and at the same time supplies the patient with nutrition. It is not a good plan to take fruit ice in connection with a large meal, as it lowers the tem- perature of the stomach, and the latter cannot perform its functions until it has reached its normal temperature again. "Ice cream is a useful article of food for a person who is suffering with gastric ulcer and inflammation of the stomach, due to excess of hydrochloric acid, as it is both nutritious and cooling to the stomach. "The combination of sugar and milk does not see*m to do any particular damage under these conditions, for the large amount of hydrochloric acid seems to neutralize any evil effects. It is not a useful article of food for an in- dividual with a normal stomach. The materials used should be of the best quality, for frequently we have severe pto- maine poisoning from eating an inferior quality of ice cream." GRAPEFRUIT ICE % cup grapefruit juice V2 cup water % cup sugar or more Add the sugar to the water, and bring to a boil. When cool, add the grapefruit juice, and freeze, using about 1 part salt to 3 or 4 parts ice. Too much salt makes a (use level measurements for^ll ingredients.) (147) 148 FOOD AND COOKERY coarse-grained ice. The beaten white of an egg may be added if desired. LEMON ICE V* cup lemon juice % cup water Vz cup sugar or more Make the same as grapefruit ice. STRAWBERRY ICE 2 cups strawberries V2 cup sugar or more Vz cup water 1 tablespoonful lemon juice Wash well colored ripe berries, and remove the stems. Put them into a bowl, sprinkle over the sugar, cover, and let stand an hour. Then mash them well, add the water, and press through a fine strainer or cheesecloth to express as much juice as possible. Add the lemon juice and freeze. APRICOT ICE 1 cup stewed apricot pulp 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice 14 cup water Sugar to taste Stew the apricots with enough sugar to sweeten. When, cool, mash through a fine colander, add lemon juice and water, and freeze. A little additional sugar may be re- quired. ICE CREAM % cup rich cream % cup milk 1 tablespoonful sugar Vanilla flavor Mix the ingredients, and freeze the same as fruit ice. HOME CANNING The object of this chapter is to aid the housewife in an- swering the question of how to preserve the surplus vege- tables and fruits from the home garden, so that they may be carried over into the winter months, and thus utilize to the best advantage all home products. Much valuable instruction on the subject of canning and conservation of foods is furnished in convenient form through the medium of "Farmers' Bulletins," issued by the Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C, and is available to all. Following are general principles which direct in this work, and a knowledge of which is essential to successful can- ning. PRINCIPLES OF CANNING The great secret of canning lies in complete sterilization. The air we breathe, the water we drink, all fruits and vegetables, are teeming with minute forms of life, which we call bacteria or molds or germs. These germs are practically the sole cause of decomposition, or rotting. In other words, air that has been freed from germs by heat or mechanical means can be passed continuously over canned articles without affecting them in the least. Germs that cause decay may be divided into three classes, yeasts, molds, and bacteria. All three of these are plants of a very low order, and all attack plants of a higher order in somewhat the same way. The yeast plant thrives in substances containing sugar, which it breaks up into carbonic acid and alcohol. Molds, like yeasts, thrive in mixtures containing sugars, as well as in acid vegetables, such as tomatoes, where neither yeasts nor bacteria readily grow. The spoiling of vegetables is due primarily to bacteria. These are much more resistant to heat than are yeasts. (149) 150 FOOD AND COOKERY They thrive in milk, and in vegetables rich in protein, such as peas and beans. All known species of molds require air in which to work; but this is not true of bacteria, cer- tain species of which will live and cause vegetables to spoil even when no air is present. Bacteria are so small that they can be seen only with the microscope, and they reproduce themselves with amazing rapidity. One bac- terium, under favorable conditions, will produce about twenty millions, in the course of twenty-four hours. Ac- cordingly, certain vegetables spoil more rapidly than others, because they furnish a better medium for bacterial growth. The reproduction of bacteria is brought about by one of two processes. The germ either divides itself into two parts, making two bacteria where only one existed before, or else it reproduces itself by means of spores. These spores may be compared to seeds of an ordinary plant, and they present the chief difficulty in canning vegetables. While the parent bacteria may be readily killed with a temperature of boiling water, the seeds retain their vi- tality for a long time at that temperature, and upon cool- ing, will germinate and begin their destructive work. Therefore it is necessary, in order to sterilize a vege- table completely, to heat it to the temperature of boiling water, and to keep it at that temperature for about one hour, on two or three successive days, or else keep it at the temperature of boiling water for a long period of time, — two to five hours. The boiling on the first day kills all the molds, and practically all the bacteria, but does not kill the spores, or seeds. As soon as the jar cools, these seeds germinate, and a fresh crop of bacteria begin their destructive work upon the vegetable. The boiling upon the second day kills this crop of bacteria before they have had time to develop spores. The boiling upon the third day is not always necessary, but is deemed advisable in order that the sterilization may be complete. FOOD AND COOKERY 151 In the use of a glass jar with screw top, the rubber ring has a tendency to soften by the third boiling, and thus give some difficulty in sealing the jar. Experiments made at the College of Agriculture, Berkeley, California, have shown that with the addition of a certain proportion of wholesome acid to the brine on the vegetables, such as lemon juice, they may be canned much the same as fruit. For large quantities, the proportion is as follows: "For corn, about one and one half teacups lemon juice to the gallon of brine; for beans and peas, about one teacup lemon juice; and for other vegetables, about three fourths teacup to the gallon of brine." This is especially suitable for home canning, where the vegetables are picked a jar or two at a time, and thus they can be boiled in an ordinary saucepan, the same as fruit. It appears that after the bacteria have been destroyed by boiling, the spores, as they germinate, find an unfavorable medium for growth because of the acid in the brine, and hence the vegetable keeps perfectly. This is especially suitable for beans, peas, and pumpkin. Some persons do not relish the flavor when lemon is added to corn ; but for string beans, peas, pumpkin, etc., the lemon flavor is scarcely noticeable. STRING BEANS Select young, tender string beans, and break into the desired lengths. Wash, drop into boiling water sufficient to cover, and salt to taste. Let boil continuously for 30 minutes. Have glass jars and caps sterilized. Lift a jar out of boiling water, and put on a scalded rubber ring. For a quart jar, take Vs cup of the hot liquid from off the beans, add 1% tablespoonfuls lemon juice, and bring to a boil Pour immediately into a hot glass jar, and fill with the cooked string beans. Add enough of the remaining hot liquid to overflow the jar. Then screw the cap on tightly, invert, and let cool. (USE level measurements for all increments.) 152 FOOD AND COOKERY PU3IPKIN Select well matured red pumpkins. Pare thin, remove the seeds, and cut into small blocks. Put into a saucepan, cover with hot water, and let boil gently until nearly cooked. Have a common wash boiler on the stove, with a false bottom and boiling water. Lift glass jars out of boiling water. Put on rubber rings. Add \ x k tablespoon- fuls lemon juice to each quart jar, and fill with the pump- kin. Avoid mashing. Fill the jars to the brim with the remaining hot liquid, and screw caps on, not too tight. Set the jars into the hot water, cover the boiler, and let boil for 1 hour. Then remove from the boiler, re-tighten the caps, invert, and let cool. GREEN CORN The amount of sugar in sweet varieties of corn dimin- ishes rapidly after the ear is pulled from the stalk. Therefore it should be canned as soon as possible after being pulled. Select ears with full grains, husk them, and brush off the silks with a stiff brush. Wash, drop into boiling water, and let boil 5 minutes to set the milk and to expel the air. Then dip into cold water. Shear off the corn with a sharp knife, and fill into glass jars to within % of an inch from the top. Add 1 teaspoonful salt to each quart, and fill with hot water. Screw the top on without a rubber, and set on the false bottom of a wash boiler. Add enough warm water to come about two thirds up the sides of the jar. Cover the boiler, bring gradually to a boil, and keep the water boiling for 2 hours for quarts, and 2% hours for 2-quart jars. At the end of that time, remove the caps, put on the rubbers, and fill the jars to overflowing with boiling water. Screw the caps down tight, re-cover the boiler, and let boil continuously for 1 hour more. Then remove the jars from the boiler one at a time, re-tighten the caps, invert, and let cool. (use level measurements for all ingredients.) FOOD AND COOKERY 153 TOMATOES (Cold Pack) Select only sound, ripe tomatoes. Dip into scalding water for IV2 minutes, or until the skins loosen. Dip into cold water, and remove the stems and the skins. Cut into halves, and pack directly into glass jars, pressing down with a tablespoon. Add no water. Season with 1 teaspoonful salt to each quart. Put the rubbers in place, and put the caps on loosely. Set on the false bottom in a water bath, the same as for canned corn, and bring gradually to a boil. Let boil gently for 20 minutes after boiling begins. Remove the cover from the boiler. Open the jars, one at a time, press down the tomato with a silver spoon, and fill with boiling stewed tomato. Then screw the cap down tight. Re-cover the boiler, and let boil 5 minutes more. Then remove from the boiler, re-tighten caps, invert, and let cool. TOMATOES (Hot Pack) Prepare the tomatoes the same as in the preceding recipe, and place in an open kettle. Bring gradually to the boiling point, and let simmer until thoroughly cooked through. Have the jars and the caps sterilized. Lift them one at a time out of boiling water, adjust the rubber, and fill with boiling tomato. Put on the cap, and screw down tightly, being careful not to touch the inner part of jar, rubber, or jar cap with the fingers in handling. In- vert and let cool. PRESERVATION IN SALT "Vegetables can be preserved more cheaply than in cans or jars, and more simply for household use than by dry- ing. The method makes use of the preservative qualities of salt. The following formula is given out by the Di- vision of Viticulture, College of Agriculture, Berkeley, California : (use level measurements for all ingredients.) 354 FOOD AND COOKERY "The vegetables are first washed and sliced. Weigh them, and take 1 pound of salt for each 2 pounds of pre- pared vegetables. A layer of salt is first placed on the bottom of the crock or barrel, and then a layer of vege- tables. Similar layers are alternated until the vessel is full, finishing with a layer of salt. A wooden cover is then applied, and weighted with a stone or similar object that will not be acted upon by the brine. After a few days, there will be a considerable shrinkage in volume, and the vessel can be filled with more layers, and weighted as before. These methods are suitable for most root vege- tables, string beans, cabbage, and cucumbers. The large quantities of salt used in these methods must be removed by soaking before the vegetables can be eaten." Green corn, after blanching (boiling on the cob for five minutes), may be cut from the cob in fairly large kernels, and preserved in salt by this latter method. FRUIT CANNING Fruits are usually slightly acid, and in general, do not support bacterial growth. So it comes about that canned fruits are more commonly fermented by yeasts. The yeasts are very easily destroyed, being killed at less than boiling temperature. Hence bacteria can be left out of the consideration necessary in the canning of vegetables. Fruit should not be subjected to long cooking, but should be cooked only long enough to insure its preservation. A large quantity of sugar spoils the flavor of the fruit, and is likely to make it less easily digested. SELECTION OF FRUIT The selection of fruit is one of the first steps toward successful canning. The flavor is not developed until the fruit is fully ripe; but the fruit is at its best for canning and for jelly making just before it is perfectly ripe. In all the soft fruits, the fermentative stage follows closely FOOD AND COOKERY 155 upon the perfectly ripe stage. Therefore underripe fruit is better than overripe, for canning purposes. This is especially important in jelly making, for the reason that in the overripe fruit, the pectin begins to lose its jelly- making quality. The fruit should be carefully sorted, as unripe fruit requires longer cooking than perfectly ripe fruit, and both should not be cooked in the same jar. PREPARATION FOR CANNING All jars, caps, and utensils should be put on the fire in cold water, brought to the boiling point, and kept boiling for ten minutes before they are used for canning fruit. Two methods are in general use, the cold pack and the hot pack. By the cold pack method, the prepared fruit is packed into sterilized jars and covered with sirup. The jars are then cooked in a hot bath for the required time, and sealed. By the hot pack method, the fruit is cooked in sirup or water, in an open vessel, and then put into hot jars and sealed immediately. The quantity of sugar that should be used will vary with the kind of fruit, and somewhat with the locality in which it is grown. In the following method, the propor- tions of sugar used may be taken as an average. More or less sugar may be used as the case may require. SIRUPS Apricots, 2-2% quarts water to 1 quart of sugar Peaches, 2y 2 -3 " " " •" Pears, 3-4 " " " " " Plums, 1-lYz " " " " « COLD PACK Prepare the fruit by paring, and coring or pitting, as needed. Pack the fruit into sterilized glass jars. Then complete the filling of the jars with sirup. The sirup, should be boiled, but care should be exercised not to break the jars. Let the jars stand, after being filled, for 30 (use level measurements for all ingredients.) 156 FOOD AND COOKERY minutes or more, that the fruit may absorb water, and it will not break down so easily in cooking, and will more nearly resemble its natural state after it is cooked. Re- move the covers, and refill each jar if necessary. Then place the filled jars, with rubbers in place, and caps on loosely, on the false bottom of an ordinary wash boiler, and add warm water until it reaches about two thirds the height of the jars. Place the cover on the boiler, and heat gradually to the boiling point, counting the time from the moment the steam issues out from under the cover of the boiler. For soft fruits, as apricots, peaches, and plums, 10 minutes is sufficient after boiling begins. Pears, apples, and prunes will require about 20 to 30 minutes, or until the fruit appears tender on being pierced with the point of a sharp knife. The fruit having been boiled the required time, the cover is removed, the caps are screwed down tightly, and the jars are inverted or left lying on the side until cold. In the cooking of soft fruits, care should be exercised to pre- serve the natural color and appearance of the fruit. This will depend almost wholly on the cooking; that is, on let- ting the fruit stand in the sirup for a certain length of time before cooking, then seeing to it that the fruit is not overcooked, as overcooking would cause it to shrink up and lose its natural appearance. CANNING BERRIES Berries are a very delicate fruit, and break down very easily when canned by the cold pack method, and be- cause of this, are generally cooked in the open kettle. For each quart of berries, use 1 cup of granulated sugar. Put a layer of berries into a granite dish, sprinkle with sugar, cover with another layer of berries, and so on. If extra juice is desired on the fruit, a little water may be added. Let the berries and sugar stand in a cool place (use level measurements for all ingredients.) FOOD AND COOKERY 157 for several hours. Then drain off the juice, and bring to a boil. Pour in the berries carefully, and shake the dish once in a while to keep the fruit heating evenly. As soon as it comes to a good boil, draw the saucepan to the edge of the stove, and dip into hot jars with a handled cup. Put the covers on quickly, and screw them on tight. Lay the jars on the side, and turn them once in a while during the cooling; and when cold, and set upright, the berries will be evenly distributed through the jar. CANNING FRUIT WITHOUT SUGAR Fruit of any kind suitable for canning may be preserved without sugar. The sugar can be added when the fruit is used, exactly as is done with fresh fruit. If the fruit when canned is thoroughly ripe, it may be eaten without any additional sugar, and is sweet enough for many tastes. The riper the fruit, provided it is sound, the more sugar, flavor, and nutriment it contains. Ripe fruits are excellent for making butters. About 1 cupful of sugar to 12 cupfuls of fruit pulp should be used if sweet butter is desired; but the following recipe, if fol- lowed, will give a butter which has a sweetness and flavor that are greatly relished, without the use of sugar. APRICOT BUTTER Select overripe fruit, the riper the better, provided it is sound. Wash and pit. Scoop out the pulp from each half, and mash, or put through a colander, rejecting the skins. Do not heat the fruit in the skins, as that extracts a strong acid flavor. Cook the pulp down to the desired stiffness, adding neither water nor sugar. Pour into glass jars, with rubbers on, and screw the covers down tight. Place on the false bottom of a water bath, and into the boiler pour water the same temperature as the fruit, until it reaches about two thirds the height of the jars. (USE level measurements for all ingredients.) 158 FOOD AND COOKERY Cook for 20 minutes after boiling begins. This last boil- ing is to make sure that the sterilization of the fruit is complete, and thus insure its keeping qualities. Remove the cover from the boiler, tighten the covers again, invert, and let cool. JELLY MAKING Because of the concentration of a large amount of cane sugar in jelly, it is rendered less wholesome, and should be used sparingly, if at all. Most women, however, desire to. put up a few glasses of jelly to have on hand for special purposes, and a few recipes will be given for the kinds more commonly used. The fruit juice may be put up in glass jars, the same as canned fruit, if desired, and the jelly can be made as needed. Large fruits, such as apples, should yield about 3 quarts of strained juice from 8 quarts of apples and 4 quarts of water. Juicy plums will require only 3 or 3^ quarts of water to 8 quarts of fruit. Add the water to the fruit, and simmer slowly until done. Then hang up in a bag to drip. The time of boiling the juice after adding the sugar will depend on the concentration of the fruit juice, the propor- tion of sugar, and the pectin, and, in all probability, the degree of acidity. The two principal causes of failure in jelly making are: first, the common practice of adding too much sugar; second, the differing composition of fruit juices. In a dry time, the juice in fruit is not very abundant, and the percentage of sugar is high. On the other hand, if fruit is picked after a rain, the amount of water in the juice increases. As a result, the fruit from the very same tree yields juice with less sugar after a rain. These facts will explain why the amount of sugar that must be added to make the juice "jell" varies at different times. (use level measurements for all ingredients.) FOOD AND COOKERY 159 PLUM JELLY If the juice is very much diluted, it should be boiled be- fore the sugar is added, to concentrate it, so that the cook- ing after the sugar is added will not be too long. To each quart of juice, add 1 quart of sugar, bring to a boil, skim, and let boil gently until, when a spoon is dipped into the jelly and lifted, it is coated with jelly. Then pour into hot glasses, and set away until cool. Another test used, per- haps more frequently, is the cooling test. Drop a teaspoon- ful of the jelly into a saucer, set in a cool place, and stop the boiling of the jelly until you determine whether the mixture will set. As soon as the jelly is hardened, pour a thin coat of hot paraffin over the top of each glass, and it is ready to store. CURRANT JELLY Select currants that are not too ripe. Wash them, but do not stem. Drain well. Mash a small quantity at a time in a stone crock, with a potato masher, and squeeze through cloth. Then strain the juice again without squeez- ing, so that the liquid may be clear. Put the liquid on the fire, in a porcelain-lined kettle, and bring to a boil. Heat the sugar in the oven separately; and when the juice has boiled from 15 to 20 minutes, stir in the hot sugar, and continue stirring until it is dissolved. Bring to a boil, skim, and let boil 2 minutes. Take glasses out of hot water, fill them with the boiling liquid, and set away until jellied. Then cover with paraffin, as usual. CRANBERRY JELLY 1 quart cranberries 1 pint water 1 pint sugar Pick berries over, wash, and drain well. Add 1 pint water to the berries, and let boil 8 minutes after boiling begins. Mash through a colander, add sugar, and bring to a boil. Skim, and let boil gently for 4 minutes. Then pour into hot glasses or jars. When set, pour hot paraffin over the top of each glass. (USE level measurements for all ingrebie&ts.) 11 — Food and Cookery INDEX Miscellaneous Recipes Brown Flour 53 Buttermilk 49 Cereal Coffee, Homemade .... 52 Cottage Cheese 51 Cream Roast Flour 53 Croutons, Bread 53 Emulsified Oil 48 Fruit and Nut Bars 51 Fruit Coffee 52 Gra-no Cereal 52 Lactosa 50 Noodles 52 Nuttose 51 Parched Corn 53 Pasteurized Milk 49 Soup Royale 53 Vegetable Butter 48 Unfermented Batter Breads Aerated Corn Meal Gems .... 57 Aerated Wheat Gems 56 Corn Bread 57 Corn Cake 58 Corn Dodgers 57 Corn Meal Puffs 56 Currant Puffs 56 Hot Cakes 58 Johnnycake 58 Wheat Puffs 56 Unfermented Dough Breads Buckwheat Sticks 61 Buckwheat Wafers 62 Corn Meal Crisps 61 Cream Rolls 59 Date Rolls 60 Entire Wheat Sticks 60 Fruit Crisps 60 Rye Sticks 61 Rye Wafers 61 Walnut Sticks 60 Wheat Sticks 59 Fermented Breads Bran Biscuit 68 Brown Bread, Steamed 71 Corn Bread, Raised 69 Diabetic Bread (Strong in Gluten) 73 Entire Whole . Wheat Bread.. 68 Fruit Bread 70 Gluten Biscuit 72 Liquid Yeast 66 Mother's Bread 67 Parker House Rolls 71 Rye Bread 70 Shortcake, Raised 72 Wheat Bread 69 Yeasts 66 Zwieback 73 Soups Bean Soup Army Style 75 Cream of Barley 76 Cream of Corn 78 Cream of Green Peas 77 Cream of Lettuce 77 Cream of Tomato 77 Cream of Vegetable Oyster... 78 Family Potato Soup 76 Farmers' Favorite 75 Fruit Soup 79 Lima Bean Soup 76 Vegetable Chowder 75 Vegetable Julienne 74 Grains, Nut Foods, Entrees Bean Loaf, Ribbon 82 Bean Patties 83 Bean Puree, Browned 82 Beans, Baked Lima 82 Beans, Brown, with Mint Sauce 84 Beans, Stewed Lima 81 Beans, Stewed Soy 84 Beans with Dumplings 84 Beans with Noodles 83 Cereal Fillets 92 Croquettes, Rice and Egg.... 83 Dressing, Baked 89 Dressing Without Eggs 89 Garbanzos, Baked 85 Garbanzos, Stewed 85 Gluten Vegetable Stew 87 Hash, Nut and Potato 135 Lentil and Rice Loaf 88 Loaf, Ribbon Bean 82 Loaf, Rice and Soy Bean.... 85 Loaf, Savory Vegetable 85 Loaf, Vegetable, en Aspic ... 93 Macaroni au Gratin 91 Macaroni Family Style 90 Macaroni with Olives 91 New England Dinner 94 (160) INDEX 161 Grains, Nut Foods, Entrees Noodles au Gratin 91 Noodles with Beans 83 Noodles with Peas 84 Nut and Potato Pie 86 Nut Meat with Dressing, Boast 90 Olive Fillets 93 Patties, Bean 83 Patties, Soy Bean and Bice. . 85 Peas with Noodles 84 Peas with Whole Bice 87 Potato and Nut Hash 135 Potato, Boasted with Dressing 90 Potato Stew with Dumplings. . 86 Bibbon Bean Loaf 82 Bice and Egg Croquettes.... 83 Bice and Lentil Loaf 88 Bice and Soy Bean Loaf. ... 85 Bice and Soy Bean Patties . . 85 Bice, Baked Italienne 88 Bice, Spanish 89 Bice with Peas 87 Boast, Walnut 93 Savory Vegetable Loaf 85 Soy Bean and Bice Patties. . . 85 Soy Beans, Stewed 84 Spaghetti en Croustade 92 Spaghetti in Tomato : 92 Spanish Bice 89 Vegetable Gluten Stew 87 Vegetable Loaf en Aspic .... 93 Vegetable Loaf, Savorv 85 Walnut Timbales 94 Gravies and Sauces Brazil Nut Sauce 96 Brown Cream Gravy 95 Brown Gravy 95 Country Gravy 95 Cream Sauce 96 Custard Sauce 97 Egg Gravy 95 Egg Sauce 96 Lemon Sauce 97 Mint Sauce 97 Nut Sauce 96 Tomato Cream Sauce 96 Tomato Sauce 96 Vegetables Asparagus, New 99 Asparagus Tips and New Peas 100 Beans, String 99 Beets, Buttered 105 Beets, Scalloped 105 Beets, Stewed 104 Cabbage, Stewed 107 Carrots and Green Peas 104 Carrots in Cream 104 Carrots, Stewed 104 Carrots with Egg Sauce .... 104 Cauliflower au Gratin 103 Cauliflower in Cream 103 Celery with Peas, Stewed . . . 107 Corn, Baked Cream 102 Corn on Cob 102 Corn Saute, Green 102 Cucumbers, Smothered 107 Cucumbers with Egg Sauce.. 107 Eggplant, Baked 102 Eggplant, Breaded 102 Eggplant, Scalloped 101 Okra and Tomato 106 Onions, Boiled 106 Onions in Cream 106 Parsnips, Baked 105 Parsnips with Egg Sauce. . . .105 Peas, New 99 Potato, Creamed 136 Potato, Duchess 108 Potato en Surprise 108 Potato, Kentucky 108 Potato, Boasted 107 Potato, Scalloped 108 Potato, Sweet 108 Spinach 106 Squash, Baked 101 Squash, Scalloped 101 Squash, Summer 101 String Beans 99 Succotash 107 Sweet Potato 108 Sweet Potato, Glazed 109 Sweet Potato, Mashed 109 Tomato, Baked 100 Tomato, Breaded 100 Tomato, Scalloped 100 Tomato, Stewed 100 Turnips, Stewed 105 Vegetable Oyster, Scalloped. . 103 Vegetable Oyster, Stewed 103 Dried Fruits Apricots, Stewed Ill Peaches, Stewed 112 Prunes, Stewed Ill ruddings and Jellies Apple and Baisin Pudding. .. 116 Apple Snow 114 Apple Tapioca Pudding 113 Berry Mold 118 Blancmange 117 162 INDEX Puddings and Jellies Bread Pudding 116 Cream Rice Pudding 115 Croquettes of Rice, Jelly 116 Flummery, Strawberry 117 Fruit Jelly 118 Fruit Pudding, Graham 114 Fruit Pudding, Pressed 112 Fruit Pudding, Steamed 114 Gelatin, Vegetable 117 Graham Fruit Pudding 114 Hoover Pudding 115 Jelly, Berry 118 Jelly, Fruit 118 Jelly, Lemon 117 Jelly, Orange 117 Lemon Snow 115 Pressed Fruit Pudding 112 Prune Pudding 112 Prune Whip 113 Rice Pudding, Cream 115 Steamed Fruit Pudding 114 Strawberry Flummery 117 Strawberry Whip 113 Vegetable Gelatin 117 Pie Crust Beaten Oil Crust 118 Crust Shells 119 Grano Crust 119 Plain Pastry 118 Pies Apple Pie 119 General Rules 121 Lemon Pie 120 Prune Pie 119 Pumpkin Pie 120 Pumpkin Pie Without Eggs.. 120 Raisin Pie 120 Strawberry Pie .119 Cakes, Icings, Fillings Boiled Frosting 124 Jelly Roll 123 Lady Fingers 123 Layer Cake 121 Lemon Filling 125 Loaf Cake 122 Orange Filling 125' Ornamental Frosting 124 Plain Icing 124 Strawberry Filling 125 White Mountain Cake 122 Salad Dressings Boiled Dressing 126 Cream Dressing 127 Cream Mayonnaise 127 French Dressing 127 Golden Fruit Sauce 127 Mayonnaise Dressing 126 Vegetable Salads Bean Salad 129 Beet and Egg 130 Beets in Lemon 131 Cold Slaw 130 Combination Salad 130 Cucumber Salad 130 Egg Salad 130 Italian Salad 129 Lettuce and Tomato 128 Macedoine Salad 129 Nut and Celery Salad 129 Poinsettia Tomato 128 Potato Salad 129 String Bean Salad 131 Stuffed Tomato 128 Sweet Potato Salad 131 Tomato en Surprise 128 Water Lily Salad 130 Fruit Salad Crown Prince Salad 132 Fruit Basket 131 Fruit Salad 132 Fruits and Nuts 132 Raisin Salad 133 Ribbon Apple Salad 133 Stuffed Date Salad 131 Waldorf Salad 133 Toasts and Breakfast Dishes Grains Barley, Steamed 138 Cooked Grains 137 Corn Grits, Parched 138 Corn Meal Mush 137 Feterita Grits 139 Grano Cereal with Dates . . . .138 Oats, Rolled 137 Rice-Banana 138 Rice, Browned 138 Rice, Creamed 137 Rice, Steamed Natural 137 Wheat, Steamed 133 Toasts Cream Peas on Toast 134 Creamed Potato 136 INDEX 163 Toasts Cream Toast 134 Cream Tomato Toast 135 Hash, Nut and Potato 135 Mashed Potato Cakes 136 Plain Omelet 136 Prune Toast 134 Scrambled Egg with New Tomato 136 Strawberry Toast 134 Sultana Toast 135 Walnut Cream Toast 135 Sandwiches Bean Sandwich 140 Cucumber Sandwich 141 Date and Nut 141 Egg and Tomato 140 Egg Sandwich 140 Honey and Nut 141 Legume Sandwich 141 Nut and Fruit 141 Nut and Jelly 140 Nut and Tomato 140 Nut Butter and Olive 140 Raisin Sandwich 141 Tomato Sandwich 140 Cookery for the Sick Albumenized Milk 145 Albumenized Water 145 Banana, Baked 146 Barley Water 144 Corn Meal Gruel 143 Eggnog, Cream 146 Eggnog, Fruit 145 Flaxseed Tea 144 Gluten Gruel 143 Granose Gruel 143 Jellied Egg 146 Junket 146 Lemon Albumen 145 Lemon Whey 146 Malted Milk, Hot 144 Oatmeal Gruel 143 Peptonized Milk 145 Rice Water 144 Toast Water 144 Fruit Ices and Ice Cream Apricot Ice 148 Grapefruit Ice 147 Ice Cream 148 Lemon Ice 148 Strawberry Ice 148 Home Canning Apricot Butter 157 Berries 156 Canning Fruit Without Sugar 157 Cranberry Jelly 159 Currant Jelly 159 Green Corn 152 Plum Jelly 159 Preparation for Canning .... 155 Pumpkin 152 Selection of Fruit 154 String Beans 151 Tomatoes 153