(tmabnh^s Gammon m I HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON By Charles C. Farrington it Bedford, Massachusetts 1918 .Ci rz^ Copyright, 1918 Bv CHARLES C. FARRINGTON The Bedford Print Shop, Bedford, Mass. !51ji3 (g)CI.A5ll3'32 ^vt) \ o I FOREWORD History is repeating itself in Cam- bridge in 1918. Its famous Common has once more become a war camp. The United States Government has taken possession of the Common for the period of the war, or such time as its use is necessary, and here is located a part of the Radio School, now being conducted at Cambridge by the Navy Department. Known world-wide as the place where the first American army was organized, and trained under General Washington, in 1775, to fight for American liberty, it is most fitting that the same site should be used to play a part in the great war now being waged for the liberty and freedom of the world. No plot of public ground in the Country is more historic, and probably 3 Fore word no other, with the exception of Boston Common, has been for so long a time devoted continuously to public uses. It certainly has no other rival in the associations w^hich connect it insepar- ably with the early and most vital periods in our National history, and its occupation now as a part of the exten- sive training- system of the present war will add still another link in the chain of events that has already given it re- nown. IN EARLY TIMES From the earliest days of the Massa- chusetts Bay Colony g^reat importance was attached to military training- and up to the year 1681 it was compul- sory for all able-bodied men over six- teen years of age. In making their plans of the "New Towne"^ the pioneer settlers of Cambridge reserved a large tract of land for "town commons," primarily, however, as a training-field for the militia. It is to that wisely-made provision, then, that the Cambridge of today is indebted for its beautiful Common with its long train of cherished mem- ories spanning nearly three centuries ; a spot in which all Cambridge takes a just pride and one that is reverenced b}^ the thousands of tourists who every 1. Newtowne was settled in 1631. The name was changed to Cambridge in 1636. HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON year come to visit the historic shrines of Boston and vicinity. The Common as it stands today, con taining about ten acres, is but a part of the original tract which extended as far north as Linnaean Street, em- bracing^ the land between Massachu- setts Avenue and Garden Street^; and to the south, taking in the open space now known as Harvard Square. The northern, and much the largei part, was fenced in for the safe pas- turage of cows, it being necessary to protect them at night against the depredations of Indians and the incur- sion of wild animals. This portion was known as the **Cow Common." At the extreme upper end was the "gallows lot," — an acre or so of rising ground which was separated from the rest of the enclosure. Here was located the 1. Until the later part of the eisrht'^enth century Garden street was known as Wash- ington street from the associations con- nected with the now famous Washing-ton Elm. 6 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON g"allows and on this spot executions took place publicly for many years. In 1724 the "Cow Common" was di- vided into lots and sold to individuals, the part remaining — that below the line of Waterhouse Street — being left as it was originally. The Common thus reduced in size was held as the property of the Proprietors of Com- mon Lands until 1769, when it was granted to the town of Cambridge, with the provision that it lie undivided for use as a training field, and remain so forever. It served as a general meeting place for the town's people on occasions of public celebration or fes- tivity, and not the least important of all, for political gatherings. "Training days," as they were first called, and in later times "muster days," were features of life in the Colony for more than a century and might be called the first New England holidays, for such they were. Elec- . 7 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON tion day was in reality another holi- day and many local customs were ob- served. An "election sermon" was preached and "election cake" had its place on the day's bill-of-fare. Com- mencement day was also observed gen- erally throughout the Colony, but to Cambridge, people flocked from all parts of the State to participate in the festivities of this, the great gala day in the College year. The Common was the principal scene of activities on all of these recurring events, and great crowds were always in attendance. Commencement day, coming in mid- summer, was perhaps the crowning festival of the year. The Common was then covered over with booths and tents from which refreshments were served and wherein sideshows and various forms of entertainment were given. The Governor was always present on these occasions and the bright uniforms worn by his military 8 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON escort served to enhance the already picturesque scene. The Common was the rendezvous of the Middlesex yeomanry in times of public emergencv and here civic af- fairs were discussed and debated. x\fter the English custom the early elections in the Colony were held out- of-doors and there were times on elec- tion days when stirring scenes were enacted on the Common. One of the most memorable of these occasions was in 1637 when the youthful gov- ernor, Sir Henry Vane, a strong sup- porter of the religious views ex- pounded by the famous Anne Hutch- inson, was being opposed by Ex-Gov- ernor John Winthrop. Such excite- ment prevailed that violence was feared, the contest resulting in Vane's defeat. The elections were held under an oak tree which stood on the easterly side of the Common. 9 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON In 1740, the celebrated English clergyman, Rev. George Whitefield, visited Cambridge, and being refused the use of the meeting house, preached in the open air on the Common. The evangelist gathered his audiences un- der a large elm tree in the northwest- ern part of the field and the crowds which heard him preach were esti- mated at thousands. The tree was af- terward known as the "Whitefield tree." On September 2, 1774, the Common was the scene of one of the many stirring events which preceded the Revolution. The day previous, a de- tachment sent out by General Gage had seized 250 half-barrels of powder stored in the magazine at Charles- town (now known as the Old Powder House, in Somerville) and had also re- moved two field pieces from Cam- bridge. These acts aroused great in- dignation and two thousand Middlesex freeholders collected on the Common 10 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON to discuss their ^g^rievances. Excite- ment ran high and the resignations of three councillors — Lieutenant Gov- ernor Oliver, and Judges Danforth and Lee, residents of Cambridge — were demanded. The determined at- titude of the assemblage was not to be misunderstood and all three deemed it wise to comply with the request. 11 IN 1775-1776 It is in the Cambridge, and there- fore the Common, at the time of the Revolution, rather than in the earher years, in which there is manifested a more general interest, as the events occurring in that period are a part of our National history in which all citi- zens of the country share alike. In 1775, Cambridge was a town of about sixteen hundred inhabitants. Harvard Square and vicinity, known as "Cambridge Village," was the resi- dential centre. There were two routes to Boston — one by the way of Wood Street (Boylston) and the "Great Bridge," through Brighton, Brook- line and Roxbury, a distance of eight miles ; the other, by way of the Watertown Road to Charlestown, con- necting with the ferry. The Concord Road, or turnpike, (Massachusetts 12 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON Avenue) ran northward from the vil- lage, crossing- at the lower part of the Common, the Watertown Road. The latter road crossed what is now Gar- don Street near the Washington Elm and continued by way of the present Mason and Brattle Streets. In the neighborhood of Harvard Square and the Common were many fine estates not a few of which were owned by wealthy loyalists, who, early in 1775, abandoned their luxuri- ous homes and left with their families for more congenial localities. Most of these refugees were later banished by the Legislature and never returned to Cambridge. The commodious man- sions thus left vacant were confis- cated and made use of for hospitals, the quartering of troops and various other army purposes. Brattle Street, where a number of these estates were situated, was known in pre-revolu- tionary days as "Tory Row." 13 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON The Common in 1775 was practi- cally the same in extent as it is today. The turnpike formed the eastern boundary on which bordered the Col- lege yard, and on the southern side, across Garden Street, was the ancient burying ground, Christ Church and the schoolhouse. What is now Water- house Street formed the northern, and the Concord Road, the northeastern boundary. On Waterhouse Street was the residence of William Vassall^ and beyond this, at the corner of the Con- cord Road, stood the Red Lion Inn. East of the Concord Road, about mid- way of the Common, on what is now called Holmes Place, were four houses, one of which, in 1775, was owned and occupied by Jonathan Hast- 1. Vassall left with his family for Eng- land in 1775 and did not return. The house was boug-ht after the Revolution by Dr. Ben- jamin Waterhouse, who is noted as having introduced the use of kine pox for vaccina- tion into America. 14 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON ing"s, Jr., for many years steward of Harvard College.^ There were four Halls within the Colleg-e yard : Massachusetts, Har- vard, Hollis and Stoughton (the first of that name) also the president's residence — "Wadsworth House " and Holden Chapel. A little to the west of the president's house, facing the turnpike, was the First Parish meet- ing-house, and across the turnpike stood the new Court House. After the breaking out of hostili- ties at Lexington and Concord on the nineteenth of April, Cambridge at once became the centre of actual and active preparations for war. The Provincial Congress had already met here on two different occasions and transacted important business. 1. This house became later the home of Rev. Abiel Holmes, pastor of the First Church, and here his son, Oliver Wendell Holmes, the poet, was born. It was torn down in 1883 when the new law school, Aus- tin Hall, was built. 15 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON At its first session (October, 1774) a Committee of Safety and Supplies was chosen. This committee estab- Hshed its headquarters in the house of Jonathan Hasting-s, opposite the Common, and to it was entrusted the task of raising- an army and the col- lecting- of military stores. General Artemas Ward, who was then in com- mand, took up quarters, also, in the Hasting-s house. Immediately following- the events of April 19 began the sieg-e of Boston. A call for volunteers, issued by the Committee of Safety, was sent out all through New England, and men were now hastening toward Cambridge from every direction. They left their fields, their herds and flocks, and tak- ing with them only such weapons as they possessed, they answered the first call to arms in the Revolution, eager to enlist in the cause of liberty. Within a week upwards of 8,000 men 16 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON had responded. On Cambridge Com- mon were pitched the camps of this first American Army. Dorothy Dudley, an eye-witness to what transpired in Cambridge during this history-making period, has given some vivid descriptions as recorded in her diary .^ April 21 she writes: "Our little town is the seat of war. An army is gathering in our midst. Volunteers come from all quarters, many with nothing but the clothes on their backs, no money, no provisions. The Common is the rendezvous for the military, and a busy scene it is, with its groups of excited minutemen and thousand signs of warlike prepa- rations." A few days later she writes : "There is great want of pow- der, muskets and other necessaries. All possible efforts are being made to supply the needs of clothing, tents and firearms." 1. "The Cambridge of 1776." 17 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON It was impossible to accommodate in camps the great number of men who had now arrived in Cambridge and quarters had to be provided for them wherever they could be ob- tained. It was necessary to take possession of the College buildings and convert them into barracks. Christ Church was used for a similar purpose, while many of the troops were quartered in the unoccupied houses of the loyalists who had left the town. On the fifteenth of June the Con- tinental Congress at Philadelphia chose George Washington of Virginia as Commander-in-Chief of the united armies of the Colonies and he was soon on his way to Cambridge. The president's house, in the College yard, had been designated by the Provincial Congress as the quarters of the new Commander and was being prepared for his reception. 18 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON On the night of the sixteenth of June there went forth from Cam- bridge Common a detachment of 1,000 troops, commanded by Colonel Pres- cott, to fortify Bunker Hill, where it was expected that an attack by the British might be made. Before leav- ing, they were drawn up opposite the Hastings house, from the steps of which prayer was offered by Rev. Dr. Langdon, president of Harvard Col- lege. The troops were provided with intrenching tools and at about nine o'clock began their march, silently, toward their destination. The follow- ing day occurred the memorable bat- tle of Bunker Hill. On the second of July General Washington arrived in Cambridge. He was met at Watertown by a cav- alcade of citizens and a troop of light horse, and escorted into town, where he received an enthusiastic welcome. The quarters assigned to 19 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON him not being in readiness that day he repaired to the Hastings house. The day following his arrival Wash- ington assumed command of the army, on the Common, in the presence not only of the troops, but thousands of spectators, who had gathered to witness the inspiring sight. General Ward, at the head of the troops, read the commission of the new com- mander. Washington, who was mounted, rode forward a few paces, drew his sword, accepted the office to which Congress had appointed him and thereby took command of the army. Dorothy Dudley writes under date of July 3 : "General Washington is here. Today he took command under one of the grand old elms on the Common. It was a magnificent sight. The majestic figure of the General, mounted upon his horse, beneath the wide spreading branches of this pa- 20 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON triarch tree ; the multitude thronging the plain around, while the air rung with shouts as he drew his sword and declared himself Commander-in-Chief of the Continental Army." The quarters which had been pro- vided for General Washington did not prove altogether satisfactory and after only a few days' occupancy he took possession of the house of John Vassall^, where he resided during his stay in Cambridge. From now on the Common was the scene of the greatest activity. Every efifort was put forth to provide the necessary equipments, and the task of organization of the army was be- gun. There was daily drilling and columns of men were constantly marching about to the music of fife and drum. Washington, immediately upon assuming charge, inspected the 1. Afterward the home of the poet. Henry W. Long-fellow. The house is still standing on Brattle Street. 21 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON camp, to acquaint himself with its needs, and within a week made his first report to Congress. Rev. Wil- Ham Emerson, a chaplain, gives a graphic description of the camp at this time. He says : "There is great overturn- ing as to order and regularity. The Generals, Washington and Lee, are upon the lines every day. New or- ders from His Excellency are read to the regiments every morning after prayers. The strictest government is taking place, and every distinction is made between officers and men. Thousands are at work every day from four until eleven o'clock in the morning. It is surprising how much has been done. The lines are ex- tended almost from Cambridge to Mystic river. It is very diverting to walk among the camps. They are as different in their form as the owners are in their dress; and every tent is 22 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON a portraiture of the temper and taste of the persons who encamp in it. Some are of boards, and some of sail- cloth. Some partly of one and partly of the other. Ag-ain, others are made of stone and turf, brick or brush. Some are thrown up in a hurry, others are curiously wrought with doors and windows, done with wreaths and withes in the manner of a basket. Some are your proper tents and marquees, looking like the regu- lar camp of the enemy." Thatcher's Military Journal describes General Washing-ton's personal appearance as follows : "It is not difficult to distin- guish him from all others. His ap- pearance is truly noble and majestic, being- tall and well proportioned. His dress is a blue coat with buflf- colored facing-s ; a rich epaulette on each shoulder ; buff under-dress, and an elegant small-sword ; a black cock- ade in his hat." 23 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON During- the autumn the camp was prepared as far as possible against the approaching winter. A barracks building was erected at the north- western part of the Common, but it was not ready for use until after snow had fallen, early in December. The winter was a severe one and great hardships were endured by the soldiers in their various quarters. The supply of firewood was so re- duced that groves of valuable timber in the vicinity had to be cut down for fuel. Ammunition was so scarce that everything that could be found which could be molded into bullets was used. The organ pipes from Christ Church, the leaden roof of Harvard Hall, door knobs and other metal fit- tings of the College buildings, found their way into the melting pot. The early spring of 1776 brought relief in more ways than one. The hardships of winter were ended and 24 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON ammunition had now become more plentiful. Signs pointed to an early evacuation of Boston by the British, and General Washington was prepar- ing to hasten their departure. The winter had been equally as hard for the troops penned up in Boston, as it was for those in the American camps which surrounded it, and all their supplies were at a very low ebb. The fortifying of Dorchester Heights by Washington proved to General Howe the impossibility of longer hold- ing the town, and on the seventeenth of March he sailed with his troops for Halifax. There was great rejoicing when the siege of Boston was raised, and espe- cially, when on the day following the evacuation, Washington with his vic- torious army entered the town. Soon afterward the troops left Cam- bridge for New York, and the Com- mon ceased to be a military camp. 25 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON In October, 1777, the captured sol- diers of Burg-oyne's army were brought to Cambridge and quartered there in various houses for more than a year. The Common did not play a part in this chapter of the town's military history except, perhaps, that it was used by the soldier-prisoners as a place for exercise and recreation. In 1789, when he was President of the United States, Washington made his last tour through New Eng-land and visited Cambridge Common. There he was accorded a welcome such as the high office he then filled demanded. 26 BECOMES A PARK In 1830, after considerable opposi- tion, the Common was fenced in and laid out as a public park, with walks and shade trees. By the widening of Garden Street many years ago the "Washington Elm" and the "White- field tree," once included in the Com- mon, were separated from it. The former now stands in a little en- closure in the middle of Garden Street, while the "Whitefield tree," which was considered an obstruction to travel, has been removed. The soldiers' monument which stands on the Common was erected by the City of Cambridge and dedi- cated in the summer of 1870. It was designed by the famous Cobb brothers, Cyrus and Darius, then both residents of Cambridge and veterans of the Civil War, and is considered 27 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON one of the finest structures of its kind in the country. The three can-i non which flank the base of the monu- ment are relics of the Revolution, having- been captured by Ethan Allen at Crown Point, in 1775, and brought to Cambridg-e with other spoils, on ox sleds, by General Knox. They were used during- the siege of Bos- ton. At the lower end of the Common is a beautiful memorial gateway, of pink granite, erected by the General So- ciety of the Daughters of the Revo- lution. Bronze tablets on either side of the entrance are inscribed as fol- lows : On the left, "Near this spot on July 3, 1775, George Washington took command of the American Army"; on the right, "In memory of this event, this gateway was erected A. D. October, 1906." The statue of John Bridge, which stands at the northern end of the 28 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON Common, portrays one of the early settlers of the town who held many positions of honor and trust. Surrounding the Common there remain, beside several of the buildings of Harvard, but few reminders of the Revolution. Christ Church on Garden Street, the Waterhouse house on Waterhouse Street, and the "Wash- ington Elm, are now the only other nearby objects that witnessed the scenes on the Common when Wash- ington's army was encamped there, nearly a century and a half ago. "Training days" in Cambridge are a thing of the past. Commencement, is, of course, observed each year at Harvard with the customary literary exercises, the celebration of the day otherwise, however, is no longer a public afifair as in the early years, be- ing confined altogether to graduates and those immediately connected with the University. 29 AS IT IS TODAY Today, the Common, once more a war camp, presents a busy scene. Its surface is largely covered with the building's of the Radio School, and the whole park is enclosed by high board fence. The buildings include bar- racks, which are constructed around the sides of the Common, a recitation hall, administration building and power plant. The main entrance to the enclosure is on Massachusetts Avenue opposite Holmes Place. The buildings are all of the same style of construction, neat and attractive in appearance, and are equipped in every particular for the welfare of the students. The camp has been so planned that no harm will come to the beautiful shade trees or any of the structural features which adorn the Common. 30 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON Of the 5,000 men who are at this Radio School the camp on the Com- mon will accommodate in its barracks only 1,800. The larger portion are still occupying- for barracks and in- struction purposes several of the Harvard University buildings as they have done for nearly a year. In all departments the regulations of the Navy are strictly observed. While the Common long ago ceased to be used as a training field, the sol- diers' monument and the grim old cannon give to the place a permanent touch of the military atmosphere which belongs to it, and, forming as they do, in the centre of the camp, a group of silent reminders .of two former wars, they will serve the pur- pose of an impressive object lesson in patriotism to the hundreds of young men who are now training there for service in still another — the greatest of all wars in history. 31 HISTORIC CAMBRIDGE COMMON But the Common, notwithstanding the fact that the requirements for which it was orig-inally designed long ago ceased to exist, still belongs to the people of Cambridge, and always will . When the war is over and the site no longer needed by the Govern- ment, the buildings removed, and the grounds restored to their former beauty, the Common will be all the more appreciated by the people of Cambridge for its having been used in such a glorious cause ; and for the sacrifice they have made in relin- quishing it they will have been well repaid. 32 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 013 419 3