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 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
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RECOLLECTIONS 
 
 OF A VISIT TO 
 
 oi^glai^^; f rai^ce ai^^ Gern^si^N^; 
 
 Made in 1862, 
 
 AND 
 
 So Gernpai^v] ii^ 155S. 
 
 By Mrs. C. F. Barlosius 
 
 OP FREDERICKSBURG, VA. 
 
 ^1^ 
 
 I re^eKicl^sbarg : 
 FREE LANCE PUBLISHING COMPANY 
 
 1887. 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1887, 
 
 BV JOHN W. WOLTZ, 
 
 in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
 FREE LANCE PRINT, 
 FREDERICKSBURG, VA. 
 
 JENKINS & WALTHALL, BINDERS, 
 RICHMOND, VA. 
 
 d 
 
DEDICATED TO MY HUSBAND. 
 
 The author, born and raised in the county of Stafford, Vir- 
 ginia, a county made memorable by scenes enacted within its 
 borders during the war between the States, is deeply indebted 
 to a kind, generous and noble husband for the privilege of look- 
 ing beyond the confines of her native land and of observing the 
 manners and customs of the people of the Old World, from 
 which he came. 
 
 To my husband is this work affectionately dedicated ; and 
 the author, aware of her many delinquencies, and her inex- 
 perience as '[a writer, begs a generous public to pardon and 
 overlook, what may seem to the critic an act of temerity, in 
 introducing herself and her travels in this manner to the public. 
 
A TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 We, husband and I, left Kew York on the steamer 
 Glasgow, Captain Roskell, bound for Liverpool, July 
 5th, 1862, when the storm cloud of war dimmed our 
 country's sunny skies. We had many passengers 
 and a rich cargo. We left about three o'clock. The 
 weather was exceedingly warm ; we found it neces- 
 sary to leave the window open in our state-room. In 
 the night we got out to sea, when the waves, rolling 
 mountain high, came in our window, and, as I had 
 never been to sea before, I was very much frightened, 
 and thought the ship had sprung a leak. I got up 
 and opened the door leading into the saloon, and 
 told the steward, "For God's sake, tell the captain 
 the ship has sprung a leak and is sinking.'' Every 
 place was dark, as the lights were put out in the 
 rooms at twelve o'clock. The steward told me to go 
 back to bed, and he would inform me when there 
 was any danger. I went back to my state-room, and 
 passed the long, weary night in anguish and tears, 
 imagining all kinds of horrors. I sat on the floor 
 all night, praying, every once in awhile putting my 
 hand on the floor to see if the water was rising. Of 
 
6 Bee'oUcctions of a Trip to Earope. 
 
 course, every time the ship made a lurch, the water, 
 collected on the ledges and furniture from the open 
 window, would fall on me as I sat on the floor. 
 
 I cannot describe my feelings. I will never^ no, 
 never forget that dreadful night. I moaned all night, 
 remembering there were but a few planks between 
 me and eternity. The long, weary night passed, 
 and the sun rose like a ball of fire out of the sea; 
 then I saw my fears were groundless, and felt very 
 much ashamed of myself, especially at the breakfast 
 table, when some of the gentlemen asked the cap- 
 tain if he knew the ship had sprung a leak last night, 
 when he passed, looking knowingly at me. Every 
 time I saw the steward he would smile. After the 
 first night I was not afraid, and would go to my state- 
 room without fear, and thought it grand to be lulled 
 to sleep by the booming of the waves against the 
 ship; and no passenger on the steamer conld go up 
 and down the steps with more agility than I could, 
 and the doctor said I would make a capital steward- 
 ess as I was never sea sick. Time passed very pleas- 
 antly for the next few days ; we had music and games 
 of all kinds. We often sat on the deck and watched 
 the sea-gulls light on the waves to rest. On the 
 fourth day out, a beautiful young Irish girl, who had 
 left New York, hoping to reach her native land, 
 died^ with the pathetic appeal to the Captain not to 
 bury her in the cruel, treacherous sea. The passen- 
 gers were saddened by the event, and many shed 
 tears to the memory of the poor girl who never lived 
 
At Sea. 7 
 
 to reach her native shores, where, perhaps, friends 
 were waiting to welcome her. Long years have 
 passed since then, bnt often I think of her and her 
 sad fate. We buried her at sunrise in the deep, blue 
 sea. The minister read the burial service, the corpse 
 was sewed up in canvass and a plank arranged for 
 sliding the body into the sea, and as the last word of 
 the burial service was spoken, it was cast into the 
 waters, just as the sun was rising. It was a sad and 
 solemn sight. There she will remain lulled to sleep 
 by the music of Kaid Queens in the gloomy aisles of 
 the deep, while loving hearts are pining for one 
 sweet look of eyes closed forever in sleep ; yes, dead, 
 dead and by the wild sea's cold lips kissed; and 
 hearts that are lightest shall know of a grief for her 
 who shall ever be missed. 
 
 Proud was the head, now at rest 'neath thy waves; 
 lovely the form in thy fathomless caves, " Oh, whis- 
 pering sea,*' oh, merciless sea. A few days after, 
 twin babies were born in the steerage, and the ladies 
 in the cabin called on the mother every day, bring- 
 ing some little delicacy. The babies were very pretty, 
 and we named them Ocean and Oceana^ because they 
 were children of the sea, rocked by the wild waves 
 on the bosom of the stormy Atlantic. When the 
 steamer arrived at Queenstown, they, with their pa- 
 rents, went ashore, and the children of the sea were 
 lost to us forever. 
 
 We met many ships, which were always saluted. 
 One day the sailors cast a net behind the ship, which 
 
8 RefoUeetkms of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 brought up a quantity of strange looking lisb, and 
 among them was a curious looking one, which the 
 sailors said was a Mermaid. It made a strange, moan- 
 ing noise. The Captain ordered it thrown back in 
 the sea. We saw a great many sharks and whales, 
 also porpoises, and the icebergs were coming down 
 like huge mountains. The Captain said they were 
 as far under water as above it, and he had to steer 
 the vessel so as to avoid the fields of floating ice. 
 We saw also a great deal of sea-weed, which looked 
 very beautiful, floating on the water. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 We arrived at Liverpool the evening of the 18th, 
 and after our baggage was overhauled took a carriage 
 for the Victoria Hotel (patronized by Her Majesty), 
 where we had to pay for passing the parlor door and 
 looking in. The strawberries for desert were sold 
 by the piece. That night, after retiring, a little bird 
 flew in the window and lit on the bed-post; I re- 
 marked, something has happened at home ; my hus- 
 band said, don't be so foolish. But the iirst letter 
 we received brought the sad tidings of the death of 
 a young colored man who lived with us, and would 
 have taken the trip with us, but was taken ill the 
 morning we left. He died just at the time the bird 
 flew in the window. Before landing at Liverpool, 
 we passed the coast of Ireland and Wales, and saw 
 the chalk hills of England. I never saw a picture 
 more beautiful than the coast of Ireland. My first 
 impression of England was not very pleasant, — I saw 
 80 much poverty, so nmch misery. 
 
 AV^e visited all the places of interest, but I cannot 
 say I was very much impressed with Liverpool. The 
 only place I saw that I liked was St. George's Hall, 
 where we heard some fine music and singing. The 
 Zoological Garden was not very fine. We went to 
 several restaurants, gardens, and many public build- 
 
10 BccoUections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 ings, after which we left for London. ()ii the route 
 we passed many beautiful villages, and the country 
 through which we passed was in the highest state of 
 cultivation. 
 
 We stopped in London at Paynes' Hotel, near 
 Temple Bar (which has since been pulled doAvn). 
 The Hotel was kept by a widow lady ; we secured a 
 very nice room, and every meal a girl dressed in a 
 fancy cap would come up and say, " What will you 
 have for breakfast, please?" I always said "Soles," 
 Avhicli is a fish I am particularly fond of. The next 
 day after arriving in London, we went sight-seeing; 
 drove to the Bank of England; went through the 
 Royal stables; saw all the Queen's riding horses, and 
 carriages of every description. The stables are kept 
 in perfect order, and the hostlers were all in livery. 
 The horses were beautiful, and the name of each was 
 over the stall. The Queen was at Isle of Wight, 
 mourning for Prince Albert, who had died a short 
 time before. We went to St. James' Park, and Hyde 
 Park. Xear the latter Park we observed an old wo- 
 man Avith a table of refreshments ; she had a cow 
 tied to the leg of the table; we asked her for a glass 
 of milk; she picked up a glass and milked the cow 
 in it, and handed it to us; but not being partial to 
 warm milk we declined. The Parks are beautiful, 
 every thing is so neat and clean, not a dry leaf to be 
 seen. A great many school-children seemed to be 
 having a pic-nic in the Parks. 
 
 We went throuorh the Thames Tunnel. Just im- 
 
London, 11 
 
 agine crossing the River Thames on dry land, and 
 the ships sailing overhead. In the Tunnel there 
 were tables of fancy articles and jewelry for sale, and 
 a band of music played some very sweet airs. Lon- 
 don is a very tine city, but it is foggy and misting 
 nearly all the time, looks as if it rains six months 
 in the year. 
 
 We went to the Crystal Palace, at Sydenham , 
 where we saw Blondin walk the tight-rope, stretched 
 across the roof of the Palace; also went to the great 
 Exposition, where we saw many wonderful things 
 from far distant lantls. Some of the monuments are 
 very tine. Among them may be mentioned the Kel- 
 son Monument. We went through a great many 
 museums, and saw many monuments, dedicated to 
 distinguished men. One day we went to Westminster 
 Abbey, where we stood by the grave of Mary, Queen 
 of Scotts, and Queen Elizabeth. There they repose, 
 side by side ; after life's storms they seem to rest welL 
 Mary was the daughter of James V., of Scotland, and 
 Mary, of Lorraine, eldest daughter of Claude, Duke of 
 Guise, and widow of Lewis, Duke of LongueviUe. 
 "She was married to Francis II., King of France, 
 upon which occasion she assumed the title of Queen 
 of England. On the death of her consort, Francis 
 II., in 1560, she returned to Scotland, of which king- 
 dom she was Queen, and espoused Henry Stuart, 
 Lord Darnley, son of the Earl of Lennox, who be- 
 came jealous of some familiarities between his queen 
 and David Rizzio, the famous Italian musician. Riz- 
 
12 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 zio was killed in her presence, after which she became 
 fond of the Earl of Both well, who killed Lord Darn- 
 ley and married his queen, though he was the father 
 of her son. Prince James. The Scotch Lords drove 
 Bothwell into banishment, who lived very miserably, 
 in Denmark," while the Earl of Murray assumed su- 
 preme authority in the name of Prince James, while 
 the Queen took refuge in England, where Queen 
 Elizabeth threw her into prison, and kept her there 
 eighteen years, when she brought her to a trial for 
 being an accomplice in certain conspiracies formed 
 against her person, and for which she was beheaded 
 on the 18th of February, 1587, in Fotheringay Cas- 
 tle, in the forty-sixth year of her age. Queen Eliza- 
 beth, who was an excellent dissembler, immediately 
 sent a letter to her son, disavowing her privity to his 
 mother's execution. History says that on the eve- 
 ning before her execution Queen Mary called in all 
 her servants and asked their pardon for any otlence 
 toward them: took a solemn farwell of each, having 
 distributed her money and jewels among them, she 
 retired to rest at her usual hour, slept some, and 
 spent the rest of the night in prayer. Towards 
 morning she dressed herself in a rich robe of silk and 
 velvet, which, of all her wardrobe, she had reserved 
 for this awful occasion. While her women wept and 
 lamented, she gently reproved them, and desired 
 them to pray for her. The sheriff entered the room 
 and informed her that her hour had come: she replied 
 that she was ready and followed him with a serene 
 
London. Vo 
 
 and cheerful countenanee. In passluii; through the 
 ante ehamber, Sir Andrew Melville, the master of her 
 househohl, fell on his knees, and lamented that he 
 was doomed to carry the news of her unhappy fate 
 to Scotland. "Weep not, good Melville, for me,'' 
 she said, "but rather rejoice that Mary Stuart is to 
 be so soon relieved of all her sorrows." She, theUy 
 delivered her last farewell and passed on to the place 
 of execution, where a vast concourse was assembled. 
 "The tolling bell and a universal niurmer of sorrow 
 announced her approach;" her countenance was 
 pale and serene, and the religious composure of her 
 look was even sublime. Her eyes being covered with 
 a handkerchief, she laid herself down without fear 
 or trepidation. At two strokes her head was severed 
 from her body. Thus ended this mournful tragedyy 
 which cast an indellible stain on the memory of Eliz- 
 abeth, and threw a dark cloud over the annals of her 
 glorious reign. Mary was a Catholic, and on the 
 scaffold she was urged to renounce the errors of 
 Popery, but she said, " I was born in this religion ; 
 I have lived in this religion, and in this religion I 
 am resolved to die." 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 In one of the museums we saw the pen with 
 which OUver Cromwell signed the death warrant of 
 Charles I.: we were also in the room where he was 
 sentenced, and saw the door out of which he passed 
 on his way to execution. We went to the house of 
 Parliament, also to a divorce court ; saw several 
 marriages. Saw in a laro-e hall a man black as 
 Hades, said to be King of Hayti ; visited every place 
 of interest — Zoological Garden, museums, monu- 
 ments, theatres, concerts, crossed long bridges, 
 sailed on the river Thames, rode in all kinds of 
 vehicles, stood by the graves of many distinguished 
 men; saw the picture of Robin Hood and his merry 
 men. Robin Hood was an outlaw and robber, who 
 lived in the beginning of the fourteenth century in 
 Sherwood Forest, England, with a body of followers, 
 which included the famous Friar Tack, Little John, 
 and the maid, Marian. Tradition paints him in ro- 
 mantic colors, as possessing gallant and magnani- 
 mous qualities, which endeared him to the lower 
 classes, and won admiration from higher sources. 
 He was considered the best archer in the world, his 
 arrow never missing its aim; brave as the bravest, 
 and if the stories sung to his memory are true, he 
 was a jolly good hearted fellow. It is stated that 
 
London. 15 
 
 when he 8tole from the rich he often gave to the 
 poor, and that he was never cruel or killed people 
 without provocation, but for all that Robin Hood 
 was a robber and an outlaw, with a price set upon 
 his head. 
 
 We visited many fine theatres. In one we saw a 
 play by a parcel of children, called Whittington and 
 his Cat, which was very amusing. We went into *a 
 restaurant and ate shrimps, a kind of shell fish 
 roasted; we gave a few cents for enough to make 
 a meal ; I never saw them before and thought them 
 very nice. There are many restaurants kept on the 
 American plan. In passing one of the principal 
 streets we saw on a house a stone sarcophagus, said 
 to contain the corpse of a man, whose name I have 
 forgotten. He left in his will that as long as his 
 body was above ground his relations should not in- 
 herit his wealth, so his body remains above ground 
 to this day. 
 
 We made many pleasant acquaintances, among 
 them a young Irish girl, who never tired of abusing 
 Queen Victoria, and sounding the praises of Erin's 
 green isle. 8he said she would yet live to see Ire- 
 land free. Many years have passed since then, but 
 I have never forgotton those words. For the time 
 will yet come when we will unfold Erin's flag and 
 fling its folds to the breeze; and it will fjet irave over 
 the Land and float over the Seas. 
 
 " For her sons are true-hearted and free. 
 With despots and sceptres overthrown ; 
 
16 RecoUecUoKS of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 Will make for the Isle of the Sea 
 
 A Parliament house of their own ; 
 Her daughters so fair and so true, 
 
 With virtues more precious than gold 
 On history's page will renew 
 
 The love and the legends of old. 
 lVe7/ stand by the brave men at home, 
 
 Brave Healy and gallant Parnell ; 
 Wherever our footsteps may roam 
 
 Our hearts in Dear Erin will dwell." 
 
 One day we went to Hampton Court Palace, the 
 residence of the Kings and Queens, from William 
 the Conqueror doim. Their portraits hang in every 
 room. From the windows, which overlook the pri- 
 vate gardens, there is a grand view of the rivers, 
 Thames, Mole and Ember, and the Surry hills in 
 the distance. The slopes, yew trees and Queen 
 Mary's bower, in the fore ground; also the railway 
 station and road which conveys thousands of persons 
 to see the splendid avenue of horse-chestnuts and 
 thorns in full bloom in Bushby Park. The lime 
 trees and roses till the air with their rich fragrance. 
 
 We went all through the Palace — in the private 
 dressing rooms, and bed rooms — saw the state bed of 
 Queen Charlotte and King William III. ; through 
 the dining rooms, chapel, picture galleries. Among 
 the pictures are some which I liked to look at and 
 study attentively. One, the Queen of Bohemia. This 
 amiable princess saw only a phantom of royalty, and 
 had nothing more than the empty title of Queen ; 
 bore her misfortunes with that dignitied composure 
 
Londoyi. 17 
 
 which can alone emanate from a truly virtuous mind. 
 Her many privations, her long adversity, " her years 
 of disappointment, only increased her resignation to 
 the will of Heaven." So engaging was her beha- 
 vior that in the low countries she was called " Queen 
 of Hearts." General Wolfe, who stormed the heights 
 of Abraham, and was shot in the midst of victory, 
 when in the interval of fainting fits which preceded 
 the agonies of death, he heard the cry, " They run;" 
 being told it was the French, then said he, " Thank 
 God! I die contented." Three days after the action 
 Quebec surrendered, and Canada was lost to France. 
 Wolfe fell in his thirty-fourth year. The original 
 picture was painted for Earl Grosvener, but when 
 George HI. saw it, he was so delighted with it, that 
 after lamenting he could not purchase it, his Majesty 
 immediately ordered a copy for himself. 
 
 Another, Gondomar, Spanish Embassador to the 
 Court of James I., who became all things to all meUy 
 for political purposes ; who spoke Latin with King 
 James, drank with the King of Denmark, his bro- 
 ther-in-law, and assured the Earl of Bristol, when 
 Ambassador to Madrid, that he was an Englishman 
 at heart. He was also very gallant to the ladies, to 
 whom he frequently made presents; he is represented 
 as a finished minister, possessing that consummate 
 address which can hide the most insidious intentions 
 under the appearance of openess and manly candor. 
 
 A magnificent painting of the Battle of Trafalgar, 
 where Lord Nelson gloriously fell October 21, 1805. 
 
18 BecoUections of a Trij) to Europe. 
 
 The Royal Yacht in a storm, commemorating the 
 interesting historical event of her Majesty, Queen 
 Charlotte, coming to England to be married to George 
 in., in 1761. 
 
 The Triumphs of Julius C?esar, consisting of nine 
 pictures in water colors, painted by Andrea Man- 
 tegna, was bought by Charles I. for 80,000 pounds. 
 Also, the paintings of Raphael, and a chalk drawing 
 of his celebrated picture of the Transfiguration. 
 This fine copy was made by Casanove for Lord Bal- 
 timore, who presented it to his Majesty George III. 
 Raphael was one of the most celebrated painters of 
 his day. He was called the Prince of Painters; he 
 was born in 1483, and died on the day he completed 
 his thirty-seventh year, having but lately finished his 
 glorious w^ork of the Transfiguration. His body was 
 laid out in his painting room. This grand picture 
 stood by it. No funeral oration could have expressed, 
 ^o forcibly, as this simple arrangement, the unlimited 
 powders of the human soul, or the frail tenure of 
 earthly greatness. Tradition says Raphael was once 
 painting an altar piece, which was for the time veiled 
 from the curious gaze by green curtains while the 
 paint was in process of drying. The artist, weary 
 with his work, fell asleep before the closed hangings, 
 but though his body slumbered, his wondrous mind 
 still wandered through the realms of fancy, and as 
 he lay in sleep he saw the curtains open, and stand- 
 ing between them, surrounded by myriads of che- 
 rubim, a glorious vision of the Madonna and her 
 
London. 19 
 
 child. For a moment only the apparition lasted, 
 then the painter awoke to find the curtain closed be- 
 fore the altar piece. I^ext day he received an order 
 to paint a Madonna and child for the Sistine Chapel, 
 introducing Pope St. Sixtus. 
 
 Raphael, still haunted by the remembrance of his 
 dream, resolved to paint what he had seen. He 
 sketched the Madonna, surrounded by angel heads. 
 With the green curtains drawn back on both sides, 
 St. Sixtus knelt down in admiration, his tiara resting 
 on the altar ledge. St. Barbara occupied the other 
 side of the painting. The picture was complete, the 
 vision was there, and the requirements of the order 
 fulfilled, still something was wanting. The bare ledge 
 troubled the artist's eye, till one day, going to his 
 study, he saw two boys leaning on the side, looking 
 intently at his work. He seized the happy moment 
 and fixed them on his canvas as the "adoring che- 
 rubim." We went through a beautiful colonnade 
 erected by Sir Christopher Wren, who was a cele- 
 brated architect, and was employed by William HI. 
 to pull down part of the old Palace, and to build what 
 is now called the Fountain Court, where all the state 
 apartments are, which was finished in 1690. Wren 
 was born in Wiltshire in 1632. At the age of four- 
 teen he was sent to Oxford, and in 1657, was chosen 
 Professor of Astronomy. At Gresham College, in 
 1665, he was nominated architect for rebuilding St. 
 Paul's Cathedral; and immediately after the fire of 
 
20 Recollections of a 2\ip to Europe. 
 
 London, he drew the plan of a new city, which he 
 presented to the King, but it was not adopted. In 
 1668, he succeeded to the office of Surveyor-General 
 of his Majesty's works. He died in 1723, in the 
 91st year of his age, and was buried in St. Paul's 
 Cathedral, which is the greatest effort of his genius. 
 In the bed room of King William III., is the state 
 bed of Queen Charlotte. The furniture is a beauti- 
 ful specimen of embroidered needle-work, executed 
 at an institution for the orphan daughters of clergy- 
 men, which was under the patronage of Her Majesty. 
 The ceilinjj; represents niicht and mornini^; the clock 
 which stands at the head of the bed runs twelve 
 months without winding. There is a splendid paint- 
 ing of Peter the Great, Emperor of Kussia, whole 
 length, in armour, dated 1698, the year in which the 
 Czar visited England. Peter the Great was born in 
 Moscow, 11th of June, 1672. A monarch who 
 proved one of the greatest benefactors to his coun- 
 try; he founded St. Petersburg, improved the ma- 
 rine, taught the Russians the art of ship buildings 
 encouraged learning, promoted commerce, and ex- 
 tended the power and political intluence of Musco- 
 vey. Voltaire said: ''He gave a polish to his peo- 
 ple, and was himself a savage ; he taught them the 
 art of war, of which he himself was ignorant. From 
 the sight of a small boat on the river Moskwa, he 
 created a powerful Heet, made himself an expert and 
 active shipwright, sailor, pilot and commander; he 
 
London. 21 
 
 changed the manners, customs and laws of the Rus- 
 sians, and lives in their memory as the father of his 
 countr3^" 
 
 The King's private dressing room is hung with 
 tapestry representing the battle of Solehy; some 
 vases in this room were brought to England by King 
 William III. George II. and his Queen Caroline, 
 were the last sovereigns that resided at Hampton 
 Court; it is said to contain eight acres of land. We 
 went through the Maze, which is constructed like an 
 immense puzzle, with hundreds of bushes, some six 
 feet high. Parties go in there and start in diiferent 
 directions, and try to find each other. " This be- 
 comes bewildering, as you are bound to lose yourself, 
 and sometimes wander around for hours. It affords 
 lots of fun for lovers." 
 
 Xear by is the great grape vine that annually bears 
 thousands of bunches of grapes, and is dedicated 
 loholly to the Queen's service. The Kew garden is 
 very fine; some very large trees grow in this garden. 
 In the Museum we saw an old Sedan chair, said to 
 have been used by Queen Elizabeth to attend grand 
 masquerades. 
 
 " Can't you fancy Sir Plumes, as beside her he stands, 
 With his ruffles adroop on his delicate hands; 
 With his cinnamon coat, and his laced solitaire. 
 As he lifts her out light from the old Sedan chair? " 
 
 When Queen Elizabeth died, twenty-seven fans 
 w^ere found in her wardrobe ; one of them was valued 
 at £400. The handle was covered with diamonds. 
 
9? 
 
 Recollections of a Trip to Euroj^e. 
 
 And six thousand dresses were found in her ward- 
 robe at her death. One very interesting picture of 
 Queen EUzabeth, taken when she was twelve years 
 of age, hangs in the Queen's gallery; the complexion 
 is fair, the hair light red. Over a white satin skirt, 
 richly embroidered with gold, she has a crimson 
 dress, adorned at the waist and neck with jewels and 
 pearls, and a cap of the same color, also embroidered 
 with jewels. In her long, thin hands she holds a 
 prayer-book. The picture is most elaborately finished. 
 
 In an allegorical picture of Elizabeth, when thirty- 
 six years of age, she is represented in a splendid 
 dress, with the Orb and Scepter, attended by her 
 maids of honor, at which Venus is abashed, Minerva 
 is astonished, and Juno put to flight. 
 
 The great Hall in the Palace was designed by 
 Wolsey, and finished by Henry YIII., when Anne 
 Boleyn was in the height of favor. It is one hundred 
 and six feet long, forty wide, and sixty high; the 
 roof is very elaborately carved, and richly decorated 
 with the arms and badges of Henry YIII., and strikes 
 every eye with its magnificence, the grandeur of its 
 proportions, and the propriety of its ornaments. It 
 was used as a theatre during the reign of Elizabeth 
 and James I., and there is a tradition that some of 
 the plays of the immortal Shakespeare were first 
 acted in this hall. 
 
 In 1829 the parish of Hampton obtain(?d permis- 
 sion of George IV. to fit it up for Divine service, dur- 
 ing the rebuilding of Hampton Church, and it was 
 
London. 23 
 
 used as the Parish Church for about two years. 
 The walls are huug with a fine specimen of tapestry 
 in eight compartments, the arabesque borders of 
 which are most beautiful 
 
 London is a very large city. It would take a long 
 time to enumerate the many wonderful things to be 
 seen there. The people have many strange customs; 
 one is the locking up of the Tower. A few minutes 
 before the clock strikes eleven the porter, with an 
 attendant, appears before the main guard house, car- 
 rying a lantern, and calls out, "Escort keys!" 
 The guard, supplied always from the Queen's house- 
 hold troops, then turns out and escorts keys to the 
 outer gate, each sentry challenging as they pass his 
 post, — "Who goes there?" "Keys." After the 
 gates are locked and barred the procession returns, 
 the sentries exacting the same explanation as before. 
 When they come in front of the main guard house 
 the sentry stationed there gives a loud stamp on the 
 ground with his foot, and demands, " Who goes 
 there?" "Keys." "Whose keys?" ^' Queen Vic- 
 toria's keys." " Pass Queen Victoria's keys, all's well." 
 The porter then calls out, " God bless Queen Victoria/' 
 to which the main guard responds, "Amen." The 
 guard then presents arms, the officer kisses the hilt 
 of his sword, and the keys are deposited in the lieu- 
 tenant's lodgings. It sometimes happens that strang- 
 ers visiting the Tower do not get out before the time 
 comes to lock up, and, in that event, they have to 
 spend the night on benches in the guard room. 
 
24 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 The wine vaults of London are simply o-reat cel- 
 lars under the dock-houses. In area they aggregate 
 some thirty-five acres. They extend under the 
 Thames on one side, and well under Tower Hill on 
 the other; they reach out in strange passages and 
 alleys in all directions ; they contain wine that came 
 from the south of Spain, put there b}' its owner, who 
 fell dead in the vaults over fifty years ago. . 
 
 After leaving London, we took the train for Dover. 
 On our way we had a fine view of the chalk hills of 
 England, which were a grand sight. In the passage 
 through the English Channel, on our way to Calais, 
 in France, many miles from land, stands a lone rock, 
 rising some fifty feet above the l6vel of the sea; its 
 form is conic, having the appearance of a sugar loaf 
 or light-house in the distance. Ships sometimes, 
 when under good headway, venture to draw close up 
 to this singular rock in the ocean. The sea rushes 
 up its glassy sides, as it probably has been doing ever 
 since the deluge, which has given it the appearance 
 of a glassy polish, seen from every point. This rock 
 has always been a terror to the mariner when in its 
 vicinity during a storm. What a tragic story could 
 it tell, if it were intelligible, of the thousands of ter- 
 rific storms, and thousands upon thousands of raging 
 seas rushing on and around its sides; and how hun- 
 dreds of heavily laden ships, with one bound,* in a 
 driving storm, Avere dashed to pieces, and the poor 
 heart-stricken mariners, unwarned and unprepared, 
 engulfed at its base, their sad and tragic story, 
 
London. 25 
 
 never to be known until the resurrection of the dead ; 
 and yet it stands as unmoved and undisturbed as 
 when it was first fashioned by its Creator. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 In crossinsc the channel a s^reat many hecame sea- 
 sick. When we arrived at Calais every one was speak- 
 ing French. It looked strange to leave England, 
 where every one was speaking English, and in a few 
 hours be in France, and hear nothing but French. 
 Calais is surrounded by a moat and wall, and de- 
 fended by a very large citadel. The streets are wide 
 and regular; the surrounding country is flat; the 
 soil light and dry, and the cool sea breezes are con- 
 stantly blowing through the town; the inhabitants 
 are engaged in herring and cod fishing, and distilling 
 spirits ; there are a great many English residents en- 
 gaged in lace manufacturing. We found a nice res- 
 taurant at the station, which enabled us to obtain re- 
 freshments. 
 
 After leaving Calais, we went to Paris, the gay 
 French Capital. We drove to Grand Hotel Du Lou- 
 vre, where we met strangers from all parts of the 
 world. It is a magnificent hotel ; the yard was co- 
 vered with glass, the waiters spoke all languages, we 
 had a lovely room, magnificently furnished. There 
 was a large fire across the street the night of our ar- 
 rival, which burned several blocks. 
 
 Paris is situated on the river Seine. The streets 
 are very grand and lively, and thronged with gayly 
 
France. 27 
 
 dressed people. Among the objects of interest, are 
 to be mentioned, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, 
 erected in the twelfth centnry. It has two majestic 
 towers. The collossal bell in the I^orth tower is only 
 rung on State occasions, and requires the labor of 
 eight men. There are beautiful paintings and rare 
 carvings in the choir, which are supported by mas- 
 sive pillars; the floor is of marble; the altar is mag- 
 nificently carved. In a niche is a beautiful marble 
 group, representing the Descent from the Cross. The 
 Pantheon is classed among the most beautiful build- 
 ings in Paris; the most celebrated men are placed in 
 its tombs; the remains of Voltcdre and Rousseau are 
 interred here. The Jewish Church is also very grand ; 
 it is supported on thirty Doric pillars. The Palace 
 of the Tuilleries, formerly the residence of the Kings 
 of France, has beautiful gardens, adorned with sta- 
 tues, vases and fountains. The Louvre is the most 
 beautiful of the Parisian Palaces; its splendid pic- 
 ture galleries reach to the Tuilleries. We went all 
 through the Palace ; saw the pictures of Josephine 
 and Maria Louise, the two wives of Napoleon Bona- 
 parte. Maria Louise was in all respects the opposite 
 of the brilliant, fascinating Josephine, of whom she 
 was mortallj' jealous. Napoleon could not exasper- 
 ate her more than by telling her he was going to pay 
 a visit to his repudiated wife. 
 
 The bright days of the career, of Maria Louise 
 lasted for two 3- ears only. She had been the greatest 
 lady in the world, and the wife of the world's greatest 
 
28 BecoUecttons of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 man, but the sun of her prosperity declined, and she, 
 who had the world at her feet, sank without a strug- 
 gle, but fortunately her illustrious husband died in 
 ignorance of her infamy and weakness, and gave her 
 in his memor}' a shrine side by side with that dedi- 
 cated to the image of Josephine. 
 
 The Palace of the Luxemburg is very grand; has 
 a lovely garden. It was built by Mary de Medici, 
 daughter of Francis II., Grand Duke of Tuscany, 
 and wife of Henry IV., King of France; was born 
 at Florence in 1573. On the death of her husband, 
 in 1610, she was named regent of the kingdom. 
 She was a woman of great political intrigue and un- 
 bounded andution; she died in poverty in Cologne, 
 in 1642. 
 
 The Palais Roj'al contains innumerable courts, 
 galleries and arcades, and a garden planned by Car- 
 dinal Bkhelieu. The shops consist mostly of libra- 
 ries, jewelers, booksellers, confectioners, coffee- 
 houses. There is music every evening in the garden. 
 
 The Palace of Justice and Arts are beautiful 
 buildings. We saw the pillar built by Catharine de 
 Medici, on which she was accustomed to make 
 her astronomical observations. Paris also contains 
 many public libraries and museums: — the Chapel of 
 St. Ferdinand, erected on the spot where the Duke 
 of Orleans died, in 1842, and the Chapel Expiatese, 
 where the remains of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoin- 
 ette were interred, after being guillotined. There 
 is a lady in Hungary who has the distaff used by 
 
France. 29 
 
 Marie Antoinette, in spinning, during her imprison- 
 ment; it is of wood and ivory, inlaid with silver, 
 and still bears the hemp left upon it by its ill-fated 
 Queen on the eve of her execution. 
 
 At the hotel we made the acquaintance of a Hol- 
 land gentleman and his w^ife. She was a native of 
 the Island of Java, and could speak English, French, 
 German and Italian. She was very dark-complected. 
 We travelled together to Versailles to see the foun- 
 tains play, and when we returned a party of gen- 
 tlemen from INew York were standing on the steps 
 of the hotel, and one of them asked me " why I rode 
 out with that colored woman." 
 
 We visited the cemetery of Pere la Chaise, which 
 contains the tomb of Abelard and Heloise, two lov- 
 ers, who died in 1142 and 1164, respeetiveli/, and the 
 tomb of Baron Larrey, Surgeon of Napoleon I., and 
 many distinguished men. The Mausoleum of Deiii- 
 idotf and the tomb of Racheal, the great actress, and 
 many French generals and o;reat men are buried 
 here. Nearly every grave had a wreath of immor- 
 telles on it. We visited the Hotel Des Invalides, 
 which contains the tomb of Napoleon I. The colors 
 taken in the different battles are hung around in the 
 recess called the Chapelle Ardente, and the sword 
 the Emperor wore at Austerlitz, the insignia he used 
 to wear on state occasions, and the crown of gold 
 voted by the town of Cherbourg. Close to this tomb 
 in a separate recess is the tomb of Prince Jerome. 
 
30 Becollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 * In a vault beneath the pavement of the dome are 
 the bodies of several of Napoleon's marshals. 
 
 The idea of fortifyin^^ the city of Paris originated 
 with Napoleon, but it was not carried out until 1841, 
 when 140,000,000 francs were granted for the pur- 
 pose. 
 
 The banks of the Seine are skirted with spacious 
 quays, forming two lines of road, the most ancient 
 dating from 1312. Napoleon I, extended and im- 
 proved them considerably. Before Louis X\^., 
 Paris was lighted during only nine months of the 
 year, and then only in the absence of moonlight. 
 That Monarch decreed its continuance during the 
 whole year. Before gas was introduced the city was 
 lighted by lamps suspended from ropes hung across 
 the streets. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 When N'apoleon the Great died at St. Helena, an 
 English physician took charge of his heart, deposit- 
 ing it in a silver basin tilled with water; two tapers 
 burned near, but the custodian felt nervously anxious 
 while watching it during the night, and did not 
 sleep. In the silence of the night he heard a rnstlmg 
 sound, then a plunge in the water, and a rebound on 
 the floor. All occurring with the quickness of 
 thought, he sprang from his bed to see an enormous 
 rat dragging the precious relic to his hole. 
 
 A moment more, and the heart which had been 
 too vast in its ambition to be satisfied with the sove- 
 reignty of continental Europe, would have been more 
 degraded than the dust of Imperial Csesar. 
 
 St. Helena is a precipitous and lone island in the 
 Atlantic ocean, belonging to Great Britain. It occu- 
 pies an area of forty-seven square miles, and is al- 
 most entirely surrounded by rugged, perpendicular 
 rocks, rising from six hundred to over one thousand 
 feet, here and there broken through by chasms ex- 
 tending to the sea-shore. St. James Valley, termin- 
 ating in Jamestown, is the only port on the island, 
 and the residence of all the authorities. The latter 
 i« so strongly defended, both by nature and art, that 
 it is almost impregnable to invasion. The interior 
 
32 Recollections of a Trip to Europe, 
 
 is fertile, and abounds in orchards and plantations; 
 the climate is so healthy that invalids from India 
 make it a resort. 
 
 The imperishable celebrity of St. Helena, is due 
 to its having been the place of confinement in which 
 Napoleon I. sufiered the agony of exile under En- 
 glish guard, from 1815 to 1821, and where his re- 
 mains laid interred until 1840, when, by permission 
 of the English government, they were removed to 
 France. While we were in Paris, we saw some of 
 [N^apoleon's old soldiers, some with one leg, others 
 with one arm, all happy with the reflection that they 
 had fought under the great Nccpoleon. 
 
 We also saw the Zouaves who fought at Sevastopol, 
 We saw, among many cannon captured by Napoleon, 
 two Russian howitzers from Sevastopol, and eight 
 Prussian guns, cast in Berlin in 1708, by order of 
 Frederick I., which were taken at Austerlltz. 
 
 There was also 2^ grand picture of Napoleon I., as- 
 cending Mont St. Bernard, and the cannon ball by 
 which Marshal Turenne was killed, and many other 
 relics that bore close relation to the immoi-tal " man 
 of destiny." 
 
 The Church of the Madeline is very fine. The 
 first stone was laid in 1764, and it was finished by 
 Louis Phillippe. It is surrounded by 62 Corinthian 
 pillars, ornamented by a splendid facade. This build- 
 ing was intended by Napoleon to represent the Tem- 
 ple of Fame. The interior is magnificently orna- 
 mented with rich gilding, paintings and statuary, and 
 
France. 33 
 
 lighted by its three domes, which are most beauti- 
 fully painted. 
 
 The Church of St. Germaine is the oldest in Paris, 
 containing the monument to Count Casimer of Po- 
 land. The Church of St. Sulplice has a beautiful por- 
 tico, baptismal fonts of colossal shells, and a beauti- 
 ful pulpit. 
 
 We spent a delightful time in Paris, every day see- 
 ing something new. We employed an interpreter 
 by the day; he could speak several languages, and 
 we found him very useful. The markets of Paris 
 are very line. We had English rabbits, snail soup^ 
 and birds-nest pudding, served at the hotel. At that 
 time tomatoes were not eaten in France; they were 
 called "love apples," and were used as ornaments. 
 I shall never forget the look of horror on the wai- 
 ter's countenance when we brought some tomatoes 
 to the hotel, and told him to slice them up and dress 
 them with vinegar. He could not believe we would 
 eat them. 
 
 When Sunday came, bands of music would be seen 
 going out to the various gardens, while people gayly 
 dressed thronged the streets. Soldiers of every na- 
 tionality, magnificently uniformed, promenaded the 
 streets. It seemed to be a general holiday. Oppo- 
 site the hotel the builders were at work on a house. 
 I watched them until mid-day, then their labors 
 ceased for the day. We went to the Bois de Bou- 
 logne, a fashionable resort, where the most splendid 
 equipages and finest horses of the capital are dis- 
 
34 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 played. There art and taste have conspired to charm 
 the eye with the most picturesque scenery; there are 
 two charming cascades, which send their waters 
 bounding from rock to rock, or gushing from cre- 
 vices skillfully arranged into the lake beneath; 
 winding paths, emerging from the cool fir groves 
 here and there, intersect the rich turf which clothes 
 the banks down to the water's edge; the rich equip- 
 ages enlivening the carriage road that winds around 
 the lake; the crowds of persons, of all ranks, enjoy- 
 ing the cool shade on the iron benches provided for 
 their convenience, or sauntering along the gravel 
 walks; children frolicking about in the height of 
 merriment and glee; and the boats plying to and fro 
 with their w^hite canvas awnings shining in the sun 
 form a maze of bustle and animation most pleasing 
 to the eye. It is the evening, especially a little after 
 sunset, when the gay barques, with their colored lan- 
 terns, gliding along and crossing each other in every 
 direction ; the scene is lovely. The Bois de Boulogne 
 has been long known as a place for duelling and 
 suicides. 
 
 The Champs Elysees, another fashionable prome- 
 nade, extends along the banks of the Seine, In 1814 
 a Cossack Bivouac was established in the Champ 
 Elysees, and in 1815 the English encamped there. 
 The most animated part of the Champ Elysees is the 
 Avenue, which is the favorite walk of the gay Par- 
 isians. On Sundays and holidays, in particular, the 
 shopkeeper and workman may be seen here jostling 
 
France, 35 
 
 the lion of the boulevards, while aristocratic velvets 
 and cashmere shawls meet in close contact \Ndth hum- 
 ble merinos and coarse tarltans. Under the proves 
 are toy and ginger-bread stalls, and other attractions 
 for the rising generation. Jugglers and tumblers 
 attract a crowd of spectators, while Punch squeaks 
 his secular jokes to his delighted juvenile audience. 
 Handsome coffee-houses, scattered among the trees, 
 on either side, attract the loiterer by their cheerful 
 lights, varied refreshments, vocal and instrumental 
 music. There are several elegant fountains, some 
 surrounded by flower-beds. The effect of the double 
 line of lamps along the carriage road, after dark, is 
 peculiarly splendid. The Place de la Concord is fa- 
 mous as the place where Louis XYL, Charlotte Cor- 
 day, Marie Antoinette, Consort of Louis XYL, 
 Louis Phillippe, Duke of Orleans, suffered death. 
 From 1793 to 1795 more than 2,800 persons were 
 executed here. 
 
 We visited a garden called Jardin Mabille. It is 
 a large circular space with a pavilion for the orches- 
 tra. The centre is reserved for the dancers, and is 
 lighted by a profusion of gas lights suspended from 
 artificial palm trees, while small shady bowers placed 
 around afford the dancers the means of repose, after 
 the fatigues of the polka or waltz, apart from the in- 
 trusive eye of idle curiosity. A snug corner is laid 
 out with tables for refreshments ; here the sober Par- 
 isian may enjoy his bottle of beer and cigar, or the 
 votary of Terpsichore treat his partner to a refresh- 
 
36 Recollections of a Trip to Mirojye. 
 
 ing lemonade, and recruit for subsequent exercise in 
 the mazy waltz. Those who visit this elegant gar- 
 den, we should state, generally, come under the de- 
 scription of the "gayest of the gay," and the license 
 of the dance is frequently carried beyond the limits 
 of propriety. All strangers visit these gardens. It 
 was there I lirst saw the Can Can danced, and I 
 thought it disgusting. 
 
 We went to Versailles and passed through Sevres, 
 where we saw them make china-ware. It would 
 take a volume to explain the beauties of the Palace; 
 its pleasure grounds, galleries and saloons, containing 
 the historical museum and collection of paintings, 
 representing the history and wars of France. The 
 floors are studded with statuary. AYe visited the 
 throne room, where Louis XIV. received ambassa- 
 dors, accepted the apology of the Doge of Genoa, 
 and, in 1715, held his last public audience. It was 
 used for similar purposes by Louis XV. and Louis 
 XYI. Splendid fetes were held here, of which those 
 of the marriage of the Duke de Bourgogne, in 1697, 
 on the arrival of Marie Antoinette, and on the oc- 
 casion of Her Majesty Queen Victoria's visit, Au- 
 gust 25, 1855, were the most brilliant. The private 
 apartments were thrown open to the guests, and the 
 stairs, vestibules and sitting-rooms decked with the 
 rarest flowers. Queen Victoria opened the ball with 
 the Emperor in a quadrille, and waltzed with him in 
 the course of the evening. We saw the balcony 
 where Louis XVL, attended by the Queen, Marie 
 
France. 37 
 
 Antoinette, and his children, addressed the infuriated 
 mob, who came to tear him from his throne, on the 
 6th of October, 1789, and the altar, where the mar- 
 riage of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette took 
 place, in 1769. 
 
 Versailles is a beautiful city, the streets are wide 
 and clean, and in the summer nothing can be more 
 delightful than its numerous walks and drives ; the 
 country around is extremely picturesque. 
 
 We saw the carriage used by Napoleon L, when 
 elected first consul, and another used for the bap- 
 tism of the King of Rome, son of I^apoleon I., and 
 Marie Louise ; also the Sedan chair of Marie An- 
 toinette, also the bed of the Empress Josephine. 
 The fountains are magnificent, hundreds of people 
 leave Paris to watch them play; notice is always 
 given in the papers. The Hall or Tennis Court, the 
 scene of the first decided act of the French Revolu- 
 tion is also very interesting. The cabinet of natural 
 History, the Opera Saloon, the Chapel, the Park 
 w^ith its splendid statues, fountains and cascades 
 planned by Louis XIY., and many other interesting 
 places. We saw the statue to Marshal Ney, who 
 was the son of a cooper, and who entered the French 
 Army as a private in 1787, rose to be a general in 
 nine years by his abilities and dashing bravery, and 
 became a marshal in 1804. He served in Spain 
 and Russia. It was by his superhuman efforts and 
 valor in the disastrous retreat of the latter campaign 
 that he won from Napoleon the title of "Bravest of 
 
38 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 the brave. " Although he submitted to Louis XVIII. , 
 ^N'ey subsequently espoused the cause of the return- 
 ing IN'apoleon, and after the disaster at Waterloo 
 he was shot for treason ; he is buried in Pere le 
 Chaise Cemetery, and a square of flowers marks his 
 resting place. 
 
 In the Louvre, in Paris, we saw the Yenus of 
 Milo, which has a history. It came into the posses- 
 sion of France in 1820. A Greek peasant, of the 
 Island of Milo, in digging the ground, found it bu- 
 ried and broken in three fragments, in a recess seven 
 or eight feet below the surface. The peasant in- 
 formed the French Consul of his treasure, and 
 offered to sell it for a small sum. The consul knew^ 
 little about the fine arts, referred to the commander 
 of the French government transport, Emulation, 
 then at the island. He proposed to purchase the 
 statue immediately and remove it to his vessel ; but 
 this proceeding was too hasty for the consul, so he 
 wa-ote a long letter to the Ambassador for Louis 
 XVIII., at the Porte. This letter was lost on the 
 way; but fortunately for France, M. De Xoville 
 arrived at that moment in Milo ; he saw the statue, 
 recognized at once the value of it, sent a special 
 courier to the Ambassador, who dispatched Count 
 De Marcellus to Milo with instructions to effect the 
 purchase ; but all this had taken time, and when the 
 Count arrived at Milo, the Venus had been shipped 
 on board a Turkish brig, and was about to leave for 
 Constantinople. He immediately applied to the 
 
France. 39 
 
 proper authorities, who ordered the statue to be 
 landed and sold at auction. This is what the Count 
 desired, and having become the possessor of the 
 treasure, sailed for France, and did not stop until he 
 reached Paris. He had bought it in the name of 
 the Ambassador, who transferred it to Louis XYIII., 
 and the King presented the statue to the nation. 
 Such is the history of the Venus of Milo. We also 
 saw the window from which Louis XVI. harangued 
 the populace with the cap of liberty on his head, and 
 general Lafayette presented Louis Phillippe to the 
 people in 1830; also the room where Robespierrre 
 held his council and where he attempted to destroy 
 himself on the 27th of July, 1794. We saw the 
 spot where Robespierre was executed. The hotel 
 where Voltaire died is shown to strangers; the 
 house where Marat was assassinated by Charlotte 
 Corday ; the spot where Marshal Ney was shot, and 
 the tomb of Lafayette. The Zoological Garden is 
 very fine; the Mineralogical and Geological Museum 
 has a splendid collection of minerals and geological 
 specimens. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 I took a deep interest in all that was told me of 
 Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette. 
 
 Tradition says that Louis was told by an astrolo- 
 ger that he would not die a natural death; that he 
 M^as not horn like his predecessors. Not ^ member of 
 the Royal family was at his birth; his mother was 
 accidentally alone in the Palace of Versailles, and the 
 heir of France, upon his entrance into life, was re- 
 ceived by a stranger. The courier who was sent to 
 announce his birth fell from his horse and was killed 
 on the spot. The Priest who was called in to christen 
 the infant was struck by apoplexy while entering the 
 Chapel door, and his arm and tongue were paralyzed. 
 From hundreds of healthy loomen^ the physician of 
 his mother chose three nurses for the Prince. At 
 the end of a week two of them were dead, and the 
 third one, Madame Guillotine, after nursing him for 
 six weeks, was carried off by small-pox. When he 
 was crowned at Rheims, when the hand of the Arch- 
 bishop was withdrawn from the Crotvn, the King 
 thought of the prediction, and moaned and turned 
 deadly pale, and murmured, "Oh! how it pains 
 me." It seems like fate threatened this unhappy 
 Monarch from his birth. When he Avas married to 
 
France. 41 
 
 Marie Antoinette there was a terrible storm, and 
 many lost their lives. 
 
 An accident happened on his entrance into Paris, 
 where several hundred people were killed; and when 
 Marie Antoinette landed on French ground, a tent 
 had been erected, according to custom, where she was 
 to lay aside her clothing, to be attired in garments 
 of French manufacture. The walls of the tent were 
 hung with costly Gobelin tapestry, all of which rep- 
 resented scenes of bloodshed. On one side was the 
 massacre of the Innocents, on the other the scene of 
 an execution. 
 
 Marie Antoinette was horrified at the omen. That 
 night two of the ladies in waiting, who had assisted 
 the Queen in her toilet, died suddenly ; an ominous 
 commencement of nuptial bonds, " to be cruelly sev- 
 ered by the guillotine." 
 
 We saw the Bastile and the Temple, which con- 
 tained a large square Tower, Hanked with four tur- 
 rets, built in 1222. In that Tower Louis XYI. and 
 his family were imprisoned in 1792, and from there 
 he was led to the scaffold. 
 
 We saw the Arc de Triomphe, which was erected 
 by Xapoleon in 1806, and wholly finished in 1836. 
 On the marriage of I^apoleon with Marie Louise, 
 and her triumphal entry into the capital, there was 
 an immense model, in wood and canvas, of this arch, 
 temporarily erected and brilliantly illuminated. 
 
 The grave of Voltaire is shown to the Parisian 
 visitor. Of course, every one knows who Voltaire 
 
42 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 is — the favorite friend and poet of Frederick the 
 Great. History says Voltaire composed a poem, a 
 master-piece^ which, according to custom, he ahvays 
 read before the King; so the hour was set for him 
 to recite the jjoera^ in the meantime the King having 
 heard of a man with such a wonderful memory, that, 
 after hearing anything read once, could repeat it word 
 for word. So the King sent for this man and con- 
 cealed him so he could overhear Voltaire recite his 
 poem. When Voltaire finished the King said, " I 
 have heard that before." Voltaire flew in a violent 
 rage, and said, ^'Impossible, Your Majesty, for I have 
 just composed it." The King told him he could 
 prove what he said, and sent for this man, who re- 
 cited the poem, word for word. Voltaire raised his 
 hand to heaven, and said, "Great God! Have you 
 no lightning to strike this man dead, who has robbed 
 me of my poems?" It is said that Frederick the 
 Great and. Voltaire were always quarrelling, but their 
 quarrels always lowered them in public estimation. 
 They admired each other, they stood in need of each 
 other. The great King wished to be handed down 
 to posterity by the great writer. The great ivriter 
 felt himself exalted by the homage of the great King. 
 Yet, the wounds which they had inflicted on each 
 other were too deep to be effaced or even perfectly 
 healed. Not only did the scars remain; the sore 
 places often festered and bled afresh. He wrote let- 
 ters to Frederick: "Remember how you have be- 
 haved to me. For your sake I have lost the favor of 
 
France. 43 
 
 my king. For your sake I am an exile from my 
 country. I loved you, I trusted myself to you, I had 
 no wish but to end my life in your service ; and 
 what was my reward ? Stripped of all you had con- 
 ferred on me, I was forced to fly from your teritories. 
 I was hunted as if I had been a deserter from your 
 grenadiers. I was arrested, insulted, i^lundered. You 
 have great talents. You have good qualities, but 
 you have one odious vice — you delight in the abase- 
 ment of your fellow creatures. You have brought 
 disgrace on the name of Philosopher. You have 
 given some color to the slanders of the bigots, who 
 say that no confidence can be placed in the justice 
 or humanity of those who reject the Christian faith." 
 Then the King answers with less heat, but with equal 
 severity: "You know that you behaved shamefully 
 in Prussia. It is well for you that you had to deal 
 with a man so indulgent to the infirmities of genius 
 as I am. You richly deserved to see the inside of a 
 dungeon. Your talents are not more widely known 
 than your faithlessness and your malevolence. The 
 grave itself is no asylum for your spite. Let us have 
 no more of this ; I can bear with your faults for the 
 sake of your merits.'' After every outbreak of ill 
 humor this extraordinary pair became more loving 
 than before, and exchanged compliments and assur- 
 ances of mutual regard with a wonderful air of sin- 
 cerity. 
 
 We saw the room in the Palace at Berlin that 
 Frederick the Great had prepared for Voltaire ; it 
 
44 Becollections of cf Trip to Europe. 
 
 was perfectly grand. He was fond of birds, and 
 -every kind that could be mentioned was in this room; 
 some stuffed, some carved and painted. The ceilings 
 :and walls were beautifully carved, with fruits, flowers 
 and birds; nothing more magnificent could be im- 
 agined. In the year 1750, Voltaire left the great 
 capital, which he was not to see again till after the 
 lapse of nearly thirty years, when he returned, bowed 
 down by extreme old age, to die in the midst of a 
 splendid and ghastly triumph. His reception in 
 Prussia was such as might well have elated a less 
 vain and excitable mind. He wrote to his friends in 
 Paris, that the kindness and attention with which he 
 had been welcomed surpassed description; that the 
 King was the most amiable of men: that Potsdam 
 was the Paradise of philosophers. He was created 
 Chamberlain, and received, together with his gold 
 key, the cross of an order, and a patent insuring to 
 him a pension of eight hundred pounds sterling a 
 year for life. 
 
 While in ])erlin, I was very much interested in 
 Voltaire, and the friendship existing between him 
 and Frederick the Great. His room in the Palace is 
 magnificent; in it is a portrait of him, painted by 
 Frederick the Great. We were told that Frederick 
 was so despotic that he believed he could rule alone. 
 Every thing emanated from the King, and every 
 thing reverted to him again. He never accorded any 
 share in the administration to an assembly of States, 
 nor even to the State Council, which, composed of 
 
Germanij. 45 
 
 the most enlightened men, would have been able to 
 present to their Sovereign, in a clear and compre- 
 hensive light, the bearings of the intricate questions 
 connected with government. 
 
 In walking through the Palace of Sans-Souci, and 
 the magnificent garden, and standing by the old his- 
 torical wind-mill, I thought of the lean little old 
 man, of alert though slightly stooping "figure, whose 
 name among strangers was King Frederick the Sec- 
 ond, or Frederick the Great of Prussia, and at home 
 among the common people, who much loved and es- 
 teemed him, was Vaier Fritz — Father Fred — a name 
 of familiarity which had not bred contempt in that 
 instance. 
 
 The most magnificent monument I saw in Berlin^ 
 is to Frederick the Great; and pictures of Voltaire 
 are every where in the Castle. We saw line old 
 tapestry — State sledges, cabinets, caskets, portrait 
 figures in wax, with the costumes of the originals^ 
 hats, boots, swords worn by Frederick the Great's 
 ''father at the battle of Fehrhelliii.'' 
 
 In an open piece of ground near the village of 
 Tempelhoff, we saw the annual riianoiivres and re- 
 views of the Berlin garrison, which have taken place 
 there since the days of Frederick the Great. 
 
 From Paris by rail to Strashurg (a strongly forti- 
 fied town on the French frontier). The spire of 
 Strasburg Cathedral is 112 feet higher than St. Paul's 
 in London. It is considered a master piece of ar- 
 
46 Recollections of a Trip to Eurojje, 
 
 chitecture, being built of hewn stone, cut Avith such 
 precision as to give it at a distance a strong resem- 
 blance to lace. There is a remarkable clock con- 
 nected with this Cathedral ; it is a complete astro- 
 nomical almanac, from which you can read the 
 evolutions of the heavenly bodies. It is favorably 
 situated for commerce, the Rhine connecting it with 
 Switzerland, Holland and Belgium. After leaving 
 Strasburg we took the train across the Rhine to a 
 place called Kehl, a small toicn erected by the 
 French in 1688, which has often been besieged. 
 
 During the siege Strasburg in 1870, the town sus- 
 tained serious damage. From Kehl to Frankfort, 
 on the river Maine, where we visited many lovely 
 gardens and went to many good concerts, visited the 
 A t Institute, founded by a citizen of Frankfort, who 
 bequeathed his pictures and engravings his houses, 
 and 1,200,000 florins to the town, in order to found 
 a school of art. The monument to Goethe, on the 
 sides of which are figures from Goethes' poems, also 
 a statue of Schiller in bronze. The Zoological Gar- 
 dens contain many fine animals and birds. I saw 
 several tall birds stalking around with one good leg 
 and one wooden one; they looked quite comical. 
 We had a nice time riding and walking, and met 
 with several adventures. Some Grand Duke was 
 expected, and his attendants, dressed in blue velvet 
 <ioats and knee pants, were waiting at the depot to 
 receive him. We were in Frankfort twice, once in 
 
Germany. 47 
 
 1862, and again in '85. We expect to visit it again 
 in 1889. We bad a grand dinner at the restaurant 
 in the depot. The wedding ring of Martin Luther 
 is shown in a watchmaker's window in Frankfort, it 
 hears a representation of Christ upon the cross ; in 
 the centre of the hoop is a small ruby, inside the 
 ring is the inscription, Dr. Martin Luther, Catherine 
 Bora, June 13, 1525. This interesting rebc has 
 been preserved in a Frankfort family for the last 
 hundred and iifty years. We saw over a gate the 
 figure nine^ and were informed a man was con- 
 demned to death for poaching, and was told if he 
 could fire nine times and make the figure 9 in the 
 sheet-iron over the gate his life should be spared; 
 being a good marksman he consented, and the 9 
 is over the gate to this day. 
 
 We left Frankfort for Eisanach, situated at the 
 finest point in the Th'uringian Forest. The grand 
 Ducal Palace commands a pleasing view of the Wat- 
 burg, which is 1,290 feet above sea level, founded by 
 Louis the Springer in 1070, was occupied by the 
 Landgraves of Thuringia down to the extinction of 
 the family in 1247. We saw the room where Martin 
 Luther, at the beginning of the 16th century, found- 
 ed an asylum. Interesting reminiscences of the Re- 
 former, who was intercepted on his return from 
 Worms and conducted hither by his friend, the 
 Elector Frederick the Wise, are still preserved in 
 the castle. A room is shown containing Luther's 
 
48 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 table, drinking vessel, letters, portraits and other 
 memorials, where the great Reformer zealously 
 worked at his translation of the Bible from the 4th 
 of May, 1521, to 6th of March, 1522. There is a 
 spot of ink on the wall where he threw the ink-stand 
 at the devil. There is also a room containing wea- 
 pons and armour of the I2th and 17th centuries. 
 
 Among the legends of the Wartburg is one that 
 Duke Herman, of Thuringia, was one day holding a 
 poetical contest in his castle of Watburg, in which 
 six poets were contending for the prize. A discus- 
 sion arose between them, which ended in an agree- 
 ment that the one whose verses were the poorest 
 should be hanged by the Duke's executioner. A 
 learned astrologer and magician in the service of 
 the King of Hungary, was agreed upon as the judge 
 to decide this point. One of the poets was sent in 
 search of him, and found him in Transylvania. The 
 magician transported himself and the poet to Wcirt- 
 bury in a single night by a charm; and when he had 
 decided which of the six poems was the worst and 
 its author had been hanged, he was asked by the 
 Duke and other noblemen present if he had any news 
 to communicate. "Last night," he replied^ "I saw 
 a beautiful star arise in Hungary, its ray stretched 
 from there to Marbourg, and from Marbourg that 
 ray lit up the world; it means that a daughter is 
 born to my master, the King of Hungary, who will 
 become the wife of the son of your sovereign ; she 
 
Germany. 49 
 
 will be named Elizabeth ; she will be a saint, and 
 her holiness will be the joy and consolation of all 
 Christendom." 
 
 The astrologer spoke the truth — a daughter was 
 born, and was christened Elizabeth, which means, in 
 Hebrew^ "Full of the Grace of God." In due time 
 the astrologer's prediction was still further fullilled 
 by her marriage to the young Duke of Thuringia. 
 Her charity was so great that her husband was com- 
 pelled to check it. One day, meeting her coming 
 out of the kitchen holding up her apron, filled with 
 food for the poor, he asked angrily what she was car- 
 rying. In her fright she answered they were roses, 
 but she blushed so deeply as she told this pious false- 
 hood that the Duke did not believe her. He pulled 
 away her apron, and to her surprise the Duchess 
 found that God had sav^ed her from the sin of lying by 
 changing the food into roses. The Duke of Thur- 
 ingia went on a crusade to the Holy Land, and he 
 died soon after his return, when a Regent was ap- 
 pointed to rule the country during the minority of 
 his heir. This Regent w^as an avaricious and ambi- 
 tious man ; deprived Elizabeth of her worldly pos- 
 sessions; took away her children, and finally expelled 
 her from the Ducal Palace. " Thus reduced, she 
 begged her way from door to door," and after many 
 trials and privations saved up enough of wiiat she 
 received from charitable Christians to found a hos- 
 pital at Marbourg, of which she became the head, 
 where she died at the age of twenty-four. Her e^rave 
 
50 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 became the scene of so many miracles that Pope 
 Grregory IX. canonized her. 
 
 Even when they became Protestants, the peasants 
 in the neighborhood of Marbourg did not lose their 
 faith in St. Elizabeth^ and the sick, lame and blind 
 continued to make pilgrimages to her tomb, in hopes 
 of finding a relief from their ailments. 
 
 The Wartbnrg is famous, as the scene of the Fest 
 of the 18tli of October, 1817, an enthusiastic festi- 
 val, celebrated by students from ever}^ part of Ger- 
 many. 
 
 From Eisenach we went to Liebenstein, a beauti- 
 fully situated and pleasant watering place, possessing 
 chalybeate and other springs. We took rooms at 3Iil- 
 lefs Hotel, and all our friends from Miiehlhausen came 
 to see us, and we made an excursion to different places 
 of interest around Eisanach and Liebenstein. There 
 was a grand ball one Sunday night at the hotel while 
 we were there; there were present many grand la- 
 dies and gentlemen from Berlin, Vienna, Dresden 
 and Leipsic, who were spending the summer there; 
 on6 beautiful lady, daughter of a great count, spoke 
 English, and asked me many questions about Amer- 
 ica, and was very much interested in the black people; 
 she was beautifully dressed in pale pink silk, trimmed 
 with white lace, and wore diamonds; another lady, 
 a rich heiress from Berlin, wore lilac silk and pearls, 
 she was a very graceful dancer. The ball room was 
 ablaze with light; the band was concealed by flowers 
 and plants; the pillars of the piazza were wreathed 
 
Germany. 61 
 
 in flowers; fair ladies and gallant gentlemen prom- 
 enaded in the open air; and old ladies sat under the 
 trees playing cards, with their knitting lying beside 
 them; here and there a couple of lovers could be 
 seen wandering through the illuminated grounds with 
 a chaperon at a little distance. Sometimes we would 
 see a servant girl and her lover whispering under the 
 trees. Truly, it was a fairy scene; every few min- 
 utes the band would play a grand old air. 
 
 As we passed from the beauty, flowers and light 
 into the beautiful starlit night, we met a gentleman 
 from ^N'ew ^^ork by the name of Brown, who said he 
 was related to Ossawatimie Broimi, who was huns; at 
 Harpers Ferry; he was very entertaining. The land- 
 lord of the Hotel was a splendid performer on the 
 Zither, and we had some fine music. Every day, at 
 dinner, a band of Tyrolese warblers would sing until 
 dinner was over. 
 
 Each day we would go on some excursion to little 
 villages around Liebenstein. On one occasion we 
 saw a man on horseback driving a flock of geese, and 
 at the word of command, they would file right and 
 left, like soldiers. One goose had a lame leg, and 
 the man got ofl' his horse, picked the goose up in his 
 arms, and carried it home on the horse. 
 
 We heard once some lovely strains of music, and 
 could not see from whence it came ; seemed like we 
 were standing on enchanted ground. The music 
 seenied near us, but we could not find out where it 
 
52 RecoUections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 was, until we learned it was an ^Eolian harp in the 
 mountains. It was very sweet. 
 
 We went through a long cave hung with crystals. 
 We sailed on a dark lake in the cave, in a boat, with 
 torchlights. It was said the bottom had never been 
 found. 
 
 People rode on donkeys up the mountains, and 
 every person we met would say " Guten Tag." 
 We drank the waters of the Springs every day, which 
 proved to be an awful dose. We gathered the lovely 
 wild flowers on the mountains, which are equal to 
 the cultivated flowers in our native land. I gathered 
 several bouquets, and pressed them, brought them 
 home with me, and have them yet, though twenty- 
 five years have passed since then. 
 
 We ascended a mountain, on top of which was a 
 Chinese pagoda, hung around with china-bells, and 
 when the wind blew the bells would almost play a 
 tune. All visitors registered their names in this pa- 
 goda, from which there was a fine view of the sur- 
 rounding country and of the dark forest-clad moun- 
 tains of Thuringia. 
 
 We saw a ruined castle, which was deserted at the 
 close of the 17th century, and has since fallen to de- 
 cay. On the outskirts of the wood, near the ruin, is 
 the monument to the Duchess, Ida^ of Saxe Weimar. 
 A little way from the monument is a small open 
 space, enclosed by rocks on three sides, which is 
 called the Felsen Theatre. 
 
Germany. 53 
 
 Liebenstein abounds in beautiful walks and drives. 
 We passed many picturesque villas, charming retreats 
 and rocky ravines. From Liebenstein we went to 
 Magdeburg to visit friends. We had a grand time in 
 the gardens and summer theatres. The children would 
 peep at us and run away; they thought everybody 
 was black in America, and wondered how we be- 
 came white. I had lots of fun jumping at them, to 
 see them run away. Every day at three o'clock they 
 had coffee and cake, and they nearly killed me with 
 kindness; I never ate as much cake in my life or 
 drank as much coffee. They eat all the time; I 
 never visited a house but what they were either 
 cooking or eating or getting ready to cook. 
 
 We went to many tine concerts, and were invited 
 to a military ball. We took drives in the country, 
 saw women and girls in the fields at work, with a 
 complexion a city belle might envy, with nothing on 
 their heads but a handkerchief Saw funny looking 
 old men, in their little houses, mending shoes, and 
 old ladies sitting at tlie windows knitting stockings. 
 You can see them at the beer gardens, at the cafes, 
 at places of amusement it was alwaj^s knit., knit, at 
 that time. Twenty-five j'ears ago the German ladies 
 held in high contempt any female unskilled in this par- 
 ticular branch of industry. I saw, the last time I was 
 there, in 1885, that knitting stockings was confined 
 mostly to old ladies, and the young girls were mak- 
 ing lace and all kinds of fancy work. The German 
 wife takes her children and her basket, with their 
 
54 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 supper, out to a garden, where the husband joins 
 them when his day's work is over. They then get 
 coffee or beer, and eat their supper, have a dance or 
 sit and hsten to the mnsic, while the children have a 
 jolly time romping. The German takes his family 
 whenever he goes to a place of amusement; they don't 
 do like the average American husband — go himself, 
 and leave his wife to worry with the children at 
 home. After spending an evening in the garden 
 they will all get together, and go home singing, and 
 it sounds beautiful in the stillness of the night. 
 What would be said in America if such things were 
 done? I leave you to imagine. In the cities the 
 gentlemen are so extremely polite that they lift their 
 hats completely oft their heads, and a person having 
 a numerous acquaintance must be a good customer 
 to his hatter. Every night, in the families, before 
 retiring, all shake hands with each other and with 
 the stranger staying with them, and in the morning 
 everyone wishes you a happy day ; it is also the same 
 thing in the hotels and on board the German steamers. 
 There is very little if any tobacco-chewing in Ger- 
 many, but they are great smokers, and one of our 
 young friends told us he smoked on an average of 
 from twenty to twenty-five cigars daily. The bar- 
 rooms at the depots and gardens (though I may not 
 be a judge), looked to me like drug stores, and la- 
 dies attend to them, and if any one calls for Cognac 
 they take a small wine-glass and pour it over halt 
 full and bring it to the table. 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 In that portion of Germany we visited we never 
 saw any cedar trees, except in nourishers, bnt the 
 pine tree was very plentiful. 
 
 We went to several line dairies, and saw a great 
 many Holstein cows, black and white ; met a gentle- 
 man who had lived in America thirty-five years, who 
 told us a great deal about how much the Germans 
 think of their cows, horses and other dumb creatures, 
 and what nice houses they have for them to stay in ; 
 spent several hours in a dairy: saw them milk the 
 cows and send the milk to all parts of the town ; every- 
 thing was as clean as a pin. I never saw as many 
 pigeons in my life as were in the yards, and so many 
 darling little puppies. 
 
 Every Saturday I noticed large cakes about the 
 size of the top of a hogshead sent to the bakers, 
 they call it coffee cake, or Kuchen. Some of the 
 families have gardens a short distance from town, 
 and after dinner they go out and eat their supper 
 under the trees ; and as twilight lasts so long, it is 
 ver}^ pleasant. We also heard the cuckoo, and were 
 in a garden called the Rose Grarden, where nothing 
 but roses of every variety grew. We here met a 
 singing society, whose members were having a grand 
 time. One of them found out I was an American 
 
56 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 and could not speak German; seemed to be very 
 sorry, and paid me several little attentions, consisting 
 of bowing and smiling and handing me a chair, and 
 even went so far as to present his card. Many 
 laughable things occurred in this garden. Every- 
 where I could see printed in the windows of the 
 restaurant, "Delicatessen," "Delicatessen." So I 
 enquired what " Delicatessen " was, and was told 
 it was such delicacies as Limburger and Switzer 
 Cheese, Bologna Sausage and Sour Kraut. 
 
 The climate is not too warm, and the butchers 
 keep their meat hanging in the windows, and it never 
 spoils. I saw about a dozen flies the whole summer, 
 no candle bugs, or any of the numerous bugs that 
 swarm in this country in the summer. The people 
 are very much afraid of draughts, and no one leaves 
 home in the morning without a wrapping. It was 
 really strange to see getlemen, in July and August, 
 with heavy overcoats on their arm. White dresses 
 were not ^/.-on^, except to parties and weddings; and 
 I met an American bride who had many lovely white 
 and other summer dresses, who said she never wore 
 them except in the hotels and to receptions. The 
 people do not sit at the doors as much as Ave do, and 
 we passed many streets and never saw anyone at the 
 door or window. 
 
 We went to Hamburg on the Elbe, about 70 miles 
 f r omits mouth. It consists of the old and new town, 
 and covers a much larger space of ground than most 
 other cities, in consequence of its numerous gardens. 
 
Germany. 57 
 
 The large sheet of water called the Alster Basin, and 
 the Moat, occupy a considerable space. After the 
 great fire in 1842, which destroyed 61 streets and 
 1,747 houses, was built the most magnificent part of 
 this truly elegant city. The business portion is com- 
 mercially grand. The grand promenade is on the 
 wall before Danthor gate and Venor wall, the last of 
 which new street is the Regent street of Hamburg; 
 and the stores are as magnificent as any in London 
 or Paris. The established religion is Lutheran, but 
 all denominations are tolerated. A great many eTews 
 reside in Hamburg, and of Sunda}^ afternoons they 
 sit on the piazza of their houses and drink coffee, 
 and knit or sew. Some of the churches in Ham- 
 burg are very fine. The Church of St. Michael is 
 beautiful ; the tower is very high, and from the top 
 is a magnificent view. The St. Nicholas Church is 
 a beautiful specimen of pure Gothic in stone and 
 white brick. The Opera House is capable of holding 
 4,000 persons. The Orphan Asylum is a very nice 
 building. The Exchange is splendid, and in its height 
 surpasses all others. To hear the incessant hum of so 
 many voices, and to look over and down from the gal- 
 lery above, one would imagine that it were a roaring- 
 sea. This building, completed just before the big fire, 
 escaped, while the surrounding houses were reduced 
 to ashes. On the first floor is a reading-room, well 
 supplied with newspapers. St. Peter's Church was 
 burned down in 1842, and has since been erected in 
 the Gothic style of the 14th century. The chief ob- 
 
58 Becollectiovs of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 ject of interest is the ring on the door of the tower 
 of 1342, and the canopy over the pulpit of the 14th 
 century; the granite column of the old Cathedral,, 
 taken down in 1806. The woods near the city are 
 much frequented for pic-nics. The environs of Ham- 
 burg are very beautiful, particularly on the right 
 bank of the Elbe, from Altona to Blankense. Xear 
 Altona is Ottensen, where is to be seen the tomb of 
 Klopstock, and the monument erected to the memory 
 of 1,138 Hamburgers who were starved to death by 
 Davoust in the winter of 1813-14. 
 
 Kear Hamburg is Booth's Flower Garden, one of 
 the most beautiful in Germany. The promenades 
 along the basin, which is over a mile long, are bounded 
 on three sides by a quay, planted with trees and 
 flanked with palatial hotels, and elegant private resi- 
 dences. It is very grand, especially on a fine sum- 
 mer evening, when the gas is lit and the pleasure 
 boats are tilled with gay people. In the markets we 
 saw many peasant women in picturesque costumes. 
 We went to several picture galleries; saw some grand 
 paintings; one representing Tilly in the Grave-Dig- 
 ger's House the x^ight Before the Battle of Breiten- 
 tield, 16th September, 1631; Oliver Cromwell by the 
 Body of Charles I. ; Charles V.'s Triumphant Entry 
 into Antwerp in 1521. 
 
 Nothing certain is known of the origin of Ham- 
 burg; but as early as 811, Charlemagne founded a 
 castle here, to w^hich he soon added a church, pre- 
 sided over by a bishop, whose mission was to propa- 
 
Germany. 59' 
 
 £^ate Christianitv in these northern reirions. Ilam^ 
 bnro; played a prominent part in the contest with the 
 Danish Kings in the 13th and 14th centuries. The 
 city was also honorably distinguished in the good 
 work of sweeping the sea of ijirates. The discovery 
 of America, and of the sea route to India, stimulated 
 the trade of Hamburg, which, however, did not com-- 
 pete with that of England and Holland. 
 
 Hamburg remained unaffected by the thirty years^ 
 war, chiefly owing to the powerful fortifl cations con- 
 structed at the beginning of that struggle. 
 
 Hamburg cannot boast of architectural monu- 
 ments or scientific or other collections, commensurate 
 with its wealth and antiquity. The history of the 
 city, together with the enterprising character of its 
 inhabitants, and the great fire of 1842, sufficiently 
 account for the almost entire disappearance of all 
 relics of the past, and for its thoroughly modern 
 aspect. 
 
 From Hamburg we took the steamier Borrussia 
 down the Elhe^ past Heligoland or Holy Land, which 
 formerly belonged to Schleswig, was taken by the' 
 English in 1807, and still continues under their su-- 
 premacy. During the blockade of 1812, it was a 
 great resort for smugglers. On three sides of the 
 island, which consists of hard red clay and marl,, 
 rises nearly perpendicularly from the sea to a height 
 of 200 feet, forming a long and narrow triangle 
 called the Oberland. On the south-east side only a 
 low, flat bank of sand rises from the water called 
 
60 RecoUectlons of a Trip to JEuroj^e. 
 
 Unterland. The island contains about 2,000 inhabi- 
 tants of Frisian extraction, whose dialect, habits and 
 costumes are in many respects pecidiar. 
 
 The bathing season and the lobster fishery are 
 their chief sources of o^ain. The German lano^uai^e 
 is used in the schools and churches; there is a bath 
 house situated on the Unterland, a basin used by 
 bathers when prevented by stormy weather from 
 crossing to the Dtnie. The Conversationshaus, the 
 chemist shop, the theatre, and most of the restau- 
 rants are frequented by a large number of in- 
 habitants, and are places of favorite resort by stran- 
 gers. The principal streets run parallel to the cliiFs 
 from north-east to south-west. At the end of the 
 latter is the Rothe Meer, a bathing place so called 
 from the colour with which the red clay tinges the 
 waves. There is a flight of steps, 190 in number, 
 ascends the rocks to a plateau planted chiefly with 
 potatoes and intersected by the Kartojf'el Allee. The 
 pastures support goats and a great many sheep. 
 There are always boats for interesting excursions 
 round the island; an illumination of the rocks and 
 grottoes takes place several times during the season, 
 on which occasions all the visitors hire boats in order 
 to witness it to advantage ; many of the rocks have 
 received fanciful names. The luminous appearance 
 of the sea at night is more frequently observed at 
 Heligoland than elsewhere, especiall}- in sultry 
 weather with a south wind and clouded sky. When 
 the water is struck by the hand, each particle resem- 
 
Germanij. 61 
 
 bles a lire-fly or glow worm; this phenomenon, as is 
 well known, is occasioned by innumerable mollusca, 
 ■almost invisible to the naked eye, which emit a 
 phosphorescent light when in motion. 
 
 Rain, collected in cisterns, is used for driiiking wa- 
 ter; good spring water is obtained by paying a small 
 sum weekly. 
 
 German money alone is current in Heligoland* 
 The trip from Hamburg to Heligoland is delightful. 
 Soon after starting, the vessel commands a flne re- 
 trospect of the imposing city, with its forests of 
 masts, and of Altona; numerous villas on the hills 
 peep from the midst of parks and pleasure grounds, 
 which extend for a considerable distance below Blank- 
 enese. Inlaiul to the left is the town of Stade., con- 
 nected with the Elbe by a canal. There is also a 
 Chateau^ a castellated building of the 14th century, 
 which is visible from the Elbe, said to be one of the 
 oldest structures in Germany. 
 
 The steamer now passes the Island of Xeuwerk, 
 with its lificht-house orig-inallv erected in 1290, as a 
 castle for the protection against pirates. We saw 
 going and coming, both trips, 1862-85, the Scylla 
 Islands, which are very dangerous to the mariner. 
 On our way we saw^ a -ship outlined against the sky. 
 Our steamer hailed her, but received no reply ; she 
 seemed to be scurrying over the waves like a thing 
 of light; every once in a while a bell would toll 
 across the water like the distant vesper-bell; all the 
 passengers w^ere on deck, not a soul could be seen on 
 
62 Recollections of a Trij) to Europe. 
 
 the strange ship; all of a sudden she disappeared 
 from view, and the sailors, with frightened faces, 
 pronounced it the Phantom Ship. 
 
 We arrived at Southampton without anything par- 
 cular occurring. We gathered shells on the sea- 
 shore; there were a great many beautiful ones. I 
 often think of those halcyon days; how happy we 
 were wandering over the old-looking city, and watch- 
 ing the white sails on the soft blue sea, and like chil- 
 dren on a holiday, we found everything delicious, 
 and we thought it grand to be lulled to sleep by the 
 sobbing of the waves on the shore. 
 
 We stayed in Southampton several days, visiting 
 !N'etly Abbey, and other places of interest. High 
 street is very line ; has a great many handsome stores. 
 We left Southampton on the Steamer Hammonia, 
 bound for New York. We had a great many pas- 
 sengers; one man was killed by a box falling on him 
 while loading the vessel: and on board was a gentle- 
 man with his face disfigured by powder, who said he 
 was on the same steamer when the powder magazine 
 exploded many years before. 
 
 On the steamer was a celebrated Italian artist, 
 Liigi Monte, and wife, and a gentleman who had 
 been to Carlsbad in search Of health, and was re- 
 turning home to die. 
 
 We had the IT. S. Consul and family, who were 
 returning home from Switzerland, who told me many 
 interesting anecdotes of their life in Zurich. And 
 ^ very pretty Irish girl c^m^ over with us, who 
 
G-ermany. 63 
 
 seemed to be on some secret business. She came all 
 the way to Baltimore with us, and I went with her 
 to see several lawyers, and she always saw them in 
 their private office, so I think she was hunting up 
 the heirs to some great estate, or trying to free 
 Ireland, as that was her whole conversation. 
 
 "When Erin's a nation once more, 
 How happy her children will be ; 
 Ah ! then on her beautiful shore 
 
 No heart-broken peasants we'll see." 
 
Our Second Trip to Germany, 
 
OUR SECOND TRIP TO GERMANY. 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 We left Baltimore on the 20tli of May, 1885, on 
 the steamer Sailer, Capt. Wiegand, bound for Bre- 
 men. A gay party of friends was present to see us 
 off, who spent several hours most pkasantly on the 
 steamer, before she sailed. We left about three 
 o'clock in the afternoon. There were nineteen 
 cabin passengers, and a great many in the steerage. 
 The cargo was a very valuable one. The passengers 
 seemed very agreeable, and we spent the time pleas- 
 antly, enjoying the music, reading, writing and 
 ■games of all kinds, Going on deck in the morning 
 to see the sun rise, the passengers were washed off 
 the deck by the sailors cleaning up. We had break- 
 fast at eight, lunch at ten, dinner at one, coffee and 
 oakes at three, and supper at seven; so you will per- 
 ceive we were most of the time eating. 
 
 We had^a prima donna and her husband on board, 
 who were on their bridal tour, going to visit the 
 groom's relations in Germany; from there to Lon- 
 don to sing in opera of the Professor's own compo- 
 sition. They gave several concerts on board, which 
 w^ere very much enjoyed. The bride was the lite of 
 
68 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 the steamer; full of fun. She and myself were the 
 only Americans; neither of us understood German. 
 All the others spoke English and German. 
 
 After being several da^'s out we observed a French 
 ship, with signals of distress hoisted. Our steamer 
 was stopped and a boat got ready. The captain un- 
 derstood the signal as wanting a surgeon ; so our 
 young surgeon, who had just graduated, and blushed 
 like a girl if you looked at him, made haste to get 
 his surgical instruments, and started for the boat, 
 but it was a mistake, and spoilt a romance^ for the 
 passengers had made up many little stories about 
 what had happened on the French ship. 
 
 We had delightful weather; some days the sea was 
 as smooth as glass. The passengers M^ere nearly all 
 Germans, going to spend the summer in the Father- 
 land. We landed on the 3d of June, at Bremer- 
 haaven, the prosperous sea-port of Bremen, where we 
 saw many vessels from all parts of the world. We 
 left Bremerhaaven about live o'clock of the same day, 
 and, after a pleasent ride through a beautiful coun- 
 try, arrived at Bremen, about supper time. A party 
 of six of us stopped at Hotel Russie, opposite the de- 
 pot. We secured handsomely furnished rooms. 
 Opposite our room was a lovely park. After supper 
 we took a stroll through the city, visited a lovely 
 garden and heard some tine music. The next day 
 we took open carriages and drove to the Rothskeller, 
 the cellar Avhich contains Rhine and Moselle wines, 
 exclusively. 
 
Germany. 69 
 
 The oldest casks are the Rose, dating from 1653, 
 and the Twelve Apostles which is kept in another 
 part of the cellar, and is shown to the curious. The 
 Rose derives its name from a large rose painted on 
 the ceiling, heneath which the magistrates are said, 
 in ancient times, to have held their most important 
 meetings. Bremen is one of the chief commercial 
 cities of Korth Germany; it lies in a sandy plain on 
 both banks of the Weser; the staple commodities 
 are tobacco, petroleum, rice, grain, wool and cotton. 
 The town is chiefly indebted for its importance to 
 Bremerhaaven. Its seaport is entered yearly by 
 upwards of three thousand sea-going vessels. It 
 is one of the principal starting points of German 
 emigrants to America, many thousands of whom 
 quit their fatherland by this port every year. The 
 promenades are the principal ornaments of the city^ 
 There is a monument to the natives of Bremen, who 
 fell in 1870-71. The bronze statue of Gustavus 
 Adolphus, which was cast in Munich^ and destined 
 for Gottenberg, but the vessel was wrecked, and the 
 statue was rescued by boatmen of Heligoland, pur- 
 chased by the merchants of Bremen and presented 
 to their native city. 
 
 The new part of the city is very handsome ; it is 
 settled principally by retired sea captains and w^ealthy 
 merchants. The Rathhaus, a Gothic building erected 
 in 1405, is remakable for its richly decorated bow 
 window and handsome gable. In front of the Rath- 
 haus stands a large iigure of stone, eighteen feet 
 
70 Recollections of a Trip to Mirojye. 
 
 high, erected in 1412 ; in his left hand, the giant 
 hears a shield with the imperial eagle, and a naked 
 sword in his right, with the head atid hand of a 
 criminal at his feet. The Cathedral contains a pul- 
 pit presented hy Queen Christina, of Sweden. In the 
 cellar, where the lead was melted for the roof, are 
 many mummies, the oldest four hundred j^ears old, in 
 an undecayed condition. The vault still possesses 
 the property of preventing decomposition y. as dried 
 poultry has been suspended in it for years. The 
 new post-office is a very line building. There is an art 
 gallery containing pictures mostly modern, a few 
 sculptures, and a good collection of drawings by old 
 artists. 
 
 The Roman Catholic Church is an old edifice, with 
 a nave sixty feet in height, borne by eight slender 
 columns. It contains some fine stained glass, ^ear 
 the Promenade is the statue of Obers, a distinguished 
 physician and astronomer, who died in 1840. There 
 is also an asylum for aged seamen and their widows 
 founded in 1525. There are beautiful parks where 
 concerts are given every evening, and the people are 
 happy and contented; I wish I could say more about 
 this beautiful city, but I must hasten on. We spent 
 several evenings at the Tivoli Theatre and gardens, 
 the Professor and his bride, a young lady from Cin- 
 cinnatti, and a gentleman from Texas, and oui-selves, 
 took a private box; the play was Fatzinitza; the 
 Prima Donna took the star's part in America, but 
 she was anxious to see it performed in German ; 
 
Germany. 71 
 
 she, as well as myself, enjoyed it very much, although 
 we did not understand the language ; I had read, 
 and she had performed it in our native land. Be- 
 tween the acts the ladies, as well as gentlemen, go 
 out in the garden, and a hell recalls them when they 
 are ready for the next act* The gardens are lovely, 
 flowers are hlooming everywhere. The windows 
 are filled with trailing vines, and peace and content- 
 ment prevail everywhere. The manager of the 
 Tivoli Theatre wanted the Prima Donna to sing in 
 his theatre, but as we parted from them in a few 
 days, we never heard whether they came to a bar- 
 gain, as she said she would not sing unless she re- 
 ceived a hundred dollars a night, and had to be 
 advertised a week ; she sang for us in the theatre 
 during the days, so we could hear her voice to ad- 
 vantage. All the people who were in the garden 
 came in to hear her. On the sixth we parted from 
 our steamer friends with regret, hoping to meet 
 them at Bino^en, fair Bino;en on the Rhine. 
 
CHAPTEK 11. 
 
 On the train for Hanover, we passed beautiful 
 cottages embowered in vines, and saw women and 
 men at work in the field ; stopped at many stations 
 for refreshments. Ever^'thing seemed to be flourish- 
 ing. The picturesque farm houses and quaint 
 looking peasant? afforded a great deal of amuse- 
 ment to some on the train. Here and there was a 
 shepherd keeping watch over his flock with his 
 crooked stick and dog. Hanover, the headquar- 
 ters of the tenth Army Corps, is situated in a well 
 cultivated plain on both banks of the Leine. The ir- 
 regularly old l>uilt town still contains a number of 
 antiquated houses of the 15th and 17th centuries. 
 We stopped at the Hotel Royal, which is in every 
 respect grand. We were shown to a parlor and 
 chamber on the first floor, which was lit by wax 
 lights; the halls-, dining rooms and offices were lit 
 by gas; the floors were covered with Persian rugs, 
 and the beds were in alcoves, concealed by heavy 
 silk curtains. The beds were covered with silk 
 spreads quilted in diamond. The dining-room was 
 magnificent; the waiters stepped around in their 
 broadcloth and felt slippers, looking like so many 
 ministers; everything was in perfect order. The 
 flower garden was filled with choice flowers, such as 
 
Germany. 73 
 
 I never saw in America. To tell all I saw in Han- 
 over would require too much time, so I will men- 
 tion only the most important. Opposite the hotel is 
 the equestrian statue of King Ernest Augustus, 
 which is very imposing. The Tivoli garden, lit by 
 40,000 lights, no pen can describe in its beauty and 
 magnificence. Its beautiful grottoes and sylvan 
 retreats ; its fountains and statues ; its restaurant 
 where the hungry and thirsty can be supplied with 
 everything they need. 
 
 We had a seat on a balcony, where there were 
 many choice flowers. In full view of the crowd be- 
 neath, handsomely uniformed officers promenaded 
 with ladies elegantly dressed, and the mirrors in the 
 grottoes reflected the beautiful fountains and statues. 
 It was a scene that would compare with those of fairy 
 land. It was amusing to watch the private soldiers 
 and officers saluting one ajiother, and the students 
 with their fancy caps and scarred faces ; for the more 
 scars a student has on his face the higher he holds 
 his head. How often I wished some of our romantic 
 Fredericksburg girls could see those students. 
 
 When we left at ten o'clock, they were just light- 
 ing the lamps, as twilight lasts a long time. 
 
 Just imagine, a garden with 40,000 lights ! 
 
 The Theatre is considered one of the flnest in 
 Germany, with seats for sixteen hundred spectators. 
 On the balcony are placed the statues of twelve poets 
 and composers. The Museum of Arts and Sciences, 
 
74 BecoUeciions of a Trij) to Eunype. 
 
 completed in 1856; in the niches are statues of Hum- 
 boldt and other distinguished men. 
 
 The Palace, an edifice of considerable extent, was 
 built in the 17th century, and altered in 1817. The 
 interior has been fitted up anew, and is at present oc- 
 cupied by Prince Albert of Prussia. Opposite the 
 Palace is the residence of King Ernest Augustus. 
 At the back of the Palace flows the river Leine, be- 
 yond which extends the spacious drilling ground of 
 the military. The Waterloo column, 154 feet in 
 height, was erected by the grateful Fatherland to 
 about eight hundred Hanoverians, who fell at the 
 battle of AVaterloo. Also, the monument to Count 
 Alten, who died in 1840, the Hanoverian General at 
 Waterloo, and Commander of the Foreign Legion in 
 Spain. AVe visited the Riding Institute, for train- 
 ing, riding and fencing masters for the army. 
 
 On Sunday, we w^ent with some friends to Her- 
 renhausen, the favorite residence of George XL The 
 garden is laid out in the French style. One large 
 green-house is devoted to plants from Australia and 
 Cape Colony. The statue of Electress Sophia stands 
 on the spot where she expired in 1714. The waters 
 of the great fountains rise to the unusual height of 
 222 feet; it was very grand. We took dinner in the 
 garden ; we had some very large strawberries for des- 
 sert, and a drink called Erdbeerbowl, which is straw_ 
 berries, with wine poured over them and set on ice; 
 all seemed to like it very much. Whilst in Hano_ 
 
Germany. 75 
 
 ver, we went through a beautiful wood, called Eilen- 
 riede, the gift of a wealthy lady to the city ; there 
 were beautiful walks and drives, and a fine restau- 
 rant is in the most fashionable quarter of the town. 
 We took a walk with our friends through another 
 beautiful wood, and went to our hotel on the street 
 cars, which start from this point to all quarters of the 
 city. Herschel, the astronomer, was born in Hano- 
 ver; he was formerly a musician in the regular army. 
 I must not forget the lovely horses belonging to the 
 Duke of Cumberland. We went all through the 
 stables, in which we saw the carriages and harness 
 used by the nobility for hundreds of years back. An 
 old lady went around with us, and explained every- 
 thing. The Zoological Gardens are very fine; some 
 magnificent lions, tigers, and other animals. We 
 spent many pleasant hours Avatching the gambols of 
 the young lions, and listening to entrancing music 
 from a brass band stationed near by. The Deer 
 Park, which contains tame deer, is mucli visited ; 
 refreshments are to be had at the Forester's Cottas^e. 
 The old Town Hall is perhaps the most remarkable 
 building in the city. There is a church which con- 
 tains relics brought from Italy many hundred years 
 ago. The modern part of Hanover, near the rail- 
 way station, is very beautiful, and the depot covered 
 with glass is very grand. We took a through ticket 
 from Hanover to Miiehlhausen in Thuringia, but 
 were delayed several hours in Gottingen, so we took 
 a carriage and drove around the town, which is fa* 
 
76 Becollections of a Trq) to Europe. 
 
 mous for its university of 1,000 students, founded in 
 1737, by George II. On the ramparts close to the 
 Leine, is a one-story house bearing the name of Prince 
 Bismarck, 1832-33. Xear the station are the War 
 Monument and Post Ottice. The town is encircled 
 with ramparts, planted with lime trees, affording a 
 pleasant walk. We had a lovely drive through a 
 beautiful country. We then took the train for Miiehl- 
 hausen, the birth-place of my husband, where we ar- 
 rived about twilight. Again he is a child in his old 
 village home, where he first saw the light of the day. 
 When we were nearing his home he pointed out 
 to me so many places he visited when a boy, and 
 when we arrived at the depot, he looked out to see 
 if he could see one familiar face, but none were 
 there. By the time we got to the hotel, I knew all 
 about Mliehlhausen. We stopped at the Englisher 
 Hoff, kept by a widow lady, who had two pretty 
 daughters, with golden hair, both of whom spoke 
 English. After supper we called on our friends, and 
 took them by surprise—.-" What a meeting, what re- 
 joicing! " 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 Miiehlhausen is a quaint old town of 25,000 or more 
 inhabitants, with a stream of water running through 
 the streets, which the people use for scrubbing and 
 other household uses. This stream of water runs 
 from a spring called Popperoda, and runs thirteen or 
 more mills and factories, mostly woolen ; we visited 
 man}' nice gardens, saw many quaint looking houses^ 
 and met many interesting people. We were invited 
 to take coffee in a private garden belonging to a re- 
 tired banker, which invitation we accepted, and drank 
 coffee from cups three hundred years old. 
 
 We spent an afternoon at a fashionable resort 
 called the White House; Ave met many beautiful la- 
 dies and gallant gentlemen, and walked through a 
 wood which was once a Russian cemetery. On our 
 way back we stopped at the Popperoda Spring, 
 where the children were making bouquets and throw- 
 ing them in the water. It is said to be an old time 
 custom for the children to gather together all the 
 flowers and cast them in the spring as an offering to 
 the Lord for the use of the water. It was a beauti- 
 ful sight, the children all dressed in white, standing 
 around the spring, looked like so many fairies. 
 
 Miiehlhausen was once surrounded by a moat, but of 
 late years the moat is being tilled, and beautiful pro- 
 
78 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 menades made instead. The city derives its name 
 from the mills, of which there are a great niimher, 
 and there are also a great many glue factories. The 
 country people come in town with funny little wa- 
 gons filled with different colored yarns, which are 
 sometimes pulled by dogs. The dog works in Ger- 
 many, and seems to he delighted that he can help his 
 master, who always has a piece of carpet or blanket 
 to spread on the sidewalk for him to rest on, as it is 
 against the law in Germany lor a dog to lie on the 
 cold pavement. Happy dog. In some portions of 
 Germany the milch-cows draw light loads, and we 
 often saw them in the fields standing knee-deep in 
 the hay waiting for the wagon to be loaded. 
 
 While we were in Mliehlhausen we went with a party 
 of gay young friends to a little town called Gottern; 
 we traveled in a carriage over a lovely road, lined on 
 each side with fruit trees; we took dinner at the Ea- 
 gle Hotel, and met with many friends, some of whom 
 spoke English; we took a stroll to see the town, and 
 came back well pleased. A company of militia, who 
 had served their time, were marching past with a 
 band of music; they had been to bury one of their 
 number ; they were dressed in black uniforms, with 
 high hats. After supper we drove home, the girls 
 all singing their merry songs. A few days after, we re- 
 ceived an invitation to attend a flag presentation at 
 the Theatre; we obtained a splendid seat in the gal- 
 lery; the flag was presented to the Turner Society; 
 the Theatre was beautifully dressed with flowers and 
 
Germany. 79 
 
 evergreens, and a band of music, invisible to the au- 
 dience, discoursed sweet music. When the curtain 
 rolled up, a tall lady, becomingly attired, in Moire 
 satin, with a long train, the body and sleeves trim- 
 med with costly white lace, came forward and made 
 .a speech, which was received Avith cheers. She then 
 presented the flag, which was received with more 
 cheers and speeches ; the band played the Star Span- 
 gled Banner; then three cheers were given for Kaiser 
 William, and the curtain fell. In a few minutes it 
 went up again, and sixteen young ladies in lohite, with 
 crimson sashes, and slippers to correspond, with 
 crowns of flowers and garlands, danced the Italian 
 flower dance, which was lovely ; afterwards there was 
 •more music, speech-making and cheers; then they 
 all repaired to the ball-room, which was like a dream 
 of enchantment. Music floated out upon the sum- 
 mer air in sweet, wild strains ; the echo of merry 
 laughter mingled with the fall of the dancers' feet; 
 the light fell from frosted chandeliers that seemed 
 the work of some magician; garlands of beautiful 
 flowers trailed from windows and pillars ; birds ca- 
 roled in gilded cages, swinging in bowers of roses 
 and the blue " Forget-me-^ots." Music, mirth and 
 beauty winged the happy hours to unconscious flight. 
 Gayly dressed ladies, when not dancing, promenaded 
 up and down the spacious rooms, or out in the beau- 
 tiful starlit night. We spent a delightful evening, 
 ^nd were sorry when it was over. We spent three 
 weeks in Mtiehlhausen, when we left for Berlin, by 
 
80 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 Gotha, Erfurt and Wiemar, three beautiful cities. 
 Gotha is the second residence of the Duke of Saxe 
 Coburg. Gotha is one of the busiest mercantile 
 places in Thuringia, containing several banks, the 
 Ducal Palace and stables; Obelisk to the memory of 
 the natives of the Duchy who fell in 1870-71 ; the 
 park, with a pond; on an island is an old Ducal 
 burying place, there is a line museum and a Masonic 
 Temple, and several old palaces. 
 
 Erfurt is an ancient old town on the Gera, with a 
 garrison of 3,500 soldiers. There was situated here 
 formerly a Fortress, but the works are now being re- 
 moved. This quaint old • town possesses several 
 handsome Gothic churches and private dwelling- 
 houses of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. 
 
 There is an old Inn where Gustavus Adolphus, 
 Martin Luther and Maurice of Saxony are said to 
 have been entertained. The Augustine Monastery, 
 now an orphan asylum, contains the cell of Luther. 
 Weimar, the capital of the Grand Duchy, of Saxe 
 Weimar, is an irregularly built town with modern 
 suburbs, pleasantly situated on the Ilm. There 
 are many elegant monuments, the G(Pthe-Schiller, 
 monument is of bronze, erected in 1857. There is 
 an equestrian statue of Charles Augustus, which 
 was unveiled in 1875. It represents the Grand 
 Duke, in the uniform of his time, crowned with a 
 wreath of laurels. We took refreshments at the 
 station, and passing through a beautiful country and 
 by lovely cottages embowered in vines and magni- 
 
Germany. 81 
 
 ficent villas on \\\q^\\ hills, stopping every twenty 
 minutes or half hour at different stations, we arrived 
 in Berlin, the capital of Prnssia,^ at twilight. Such 
 a bustle and confusion; it reminded me of Kew 
 York. We took a carriage and drove to Topfers 
 Hotel, on Carl street. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Berlin is 110 feet above the sea level; is the resi- 
 dence of the Emperor of Germany; has 1,200,000 
 inhabitants, including the garrison of 25,000 sol- 
 diers. It is situated on a sandy plain, on the river 
 Spree (consequently Berlin is always on a sjyree). 
 The staple commodities of its trade are cattle, grain, 
 spirits and wool. The principal branches of indus- 
 try are engine building, chemicals, brewing, dyeing, 
 woolen and silk goods and fancy articles ; it is as 
 gay if not more so than Paris. The people live in 
 one continual round of pleasure. We were always 
 sight seeing; and having friends residing in Berlin, 
 one of whom spoke English, made it very pleasent 
 for me, as he went everywhere with us and explained 
 everything. We went to Charlottenberg and saw 
 the tomb of Emperor William's father and mother, 
 Frederick William III. and Queen Louise, who died 
 in 1810; her husband died in 1840. The tomb is 
 magnificent, the ceiling of stained glass throws a 
 beautiful shade over the recumbent figures of the 
 illustrious pair ; at the sides are beautiful candelabra; 
 the heart of Frederick William IV. is placed at the 
 feet of his mother in a marble casket. The anniver- 
 sary of the death of the Queen, 1 9th of July, and of the 
 King, 7th of June, are observed by a private service 
 
Germany. 83 
 
 in the mausoleum for the members of the royal 
 family. We went through the Royal Palace; met 
 the Prince of Meinigen in the hall ; had a polite 
 bow from him, and was told who he was by a chim- 
 ney sweep; he is the Crown Prince's son-in-law, and 
 lives in the palace, portions of which are shown to 
 strangers. The dining room is superb and very 
 large. In the centre is a beautiful rug, embroidered 
 by the ladies of Silesia. The grounds are beauti- 
 fully laid out; several of the Prince's children were 
 playing around the palace. We also visited Pots- 
 dam, which is situated on an island in the Harel. 
 Frederick the Great resided at Potsdam, in whose 
 reign the palace of San Souci, the new palace, and 
 a number of private residences were built, and the 
 grounds greatly extended. We saw the lime tree 
 protected by a metal eovermg, where petitioners used 
 to station themselves to attract the attention of 
 Frederick the Great. In the garden are bronze 
 busts of Blucher, Zork and twelve other celebrated 
 men. Frederick's room, adorned with pictures, has 
 been preserved in its original condition. His ink 
 stand, writing table, music stand, travelling cup, are 
 all shown to strangers. Adjoining the library, ivhieh 
 is separated from the bed room by a massive silver 
 balustrade onli/, is a cabinet with double doors, by 
 which the dining table could be let down by 
 means of a trap door, and where the king occasion- 
 ally dined with his friends without risk of I>eing 
 overheard bv his attendants. 
 
84 Recollections of a Trip to Europe, 
 
 The apartments of Frederick William III., and 
 Queen Louise, also remain unaltered. Under the pulpit 
 of the Garrison Church rest the remains of Frederick 
 the Great and his father, Frederick William I., the 
 founder of the church. The tower contains musical 
 bells, which play every half hour. We saw the 
 great fountain, the water of which rises to the 
 height of 112 feet, and several others near it. A 
 broad flight of steps lead up to the palace. I under- 
 took to count them, but was so exhausted when I 
 arrived at the top, I forgot how many there were. 
 Frederick the Great's greyhounds and chargers are 
 buried at the end of the highest terrace. This was 
 once a favorite resort of the King. The palace of 
 San Souci is a building of one story, built by 
 Frederick the Great, and his almost constant resi- 
 dence. FrederickWilliamlV. died herein 1861. The 
 main interest of the palace consists of the numerous 
 reminiscenses of the illustrious founder. We saw 
 the clock which he was in the habit of winding. It 
 had stopped at the precise moment of his death, 
 2:30 P. M., 17th August, 1786. The room he had 
 fixed for Voltaire remains unaltered ; it is beauti- 
 fully carved in fruits and flowers. Through the 
 orangery we went to the old windmill, which the 
 owner refused to sell to Frederick the Great, which 
 is now royal property. It is very large and entirely 
 overgrown with ivy. I brought some to America 
 w4th me. From the upper terrace is a magniflcent 
 view of the palaces and the surrounding country 
 
Germany. 85 
 
 and the river Havel. We visited the new palace 
 founded by Frederick the Great. Some of the rooms 
 are shown to strangers, the other portion is occupied 
 by the Crown Prince as a summer residence. The 
 Grottoe Saloon is inlaid with shells, minerals and 
 prcious stones, and lighted by innumerable chan- 
 deliers. The minerals and precious stones came 
 from all parts of the world. The theatre has seats 
 for six hundred persons; there is also a grand ball- 
 and concert-room, and a handsome marble saloon 
 100 feet long. In going through these palaces visi- 
 tors are requested to slip felt slippers over their 
 shoes, and piles of them are at the door of every suite 
 of apartments. Potsdam was hung in mourning for 
 Prince Frederick Karl, who had died a short time 
 before. We took dinner at the Wild Park restau- 
 rant, and after dinner were just going to take the 
 boat on the Havel to go to Babelsburg, when an 
 open carriage drove by containing the Crown Prince 
 and suite ; we stopped and our party bowed. The 
 Crown Prince raised his cap, bowed and smiled. 
 We then took the boat, but being late we did not 
 go as far as Babelsburg, but saw it in the distance. 
 On the banks of the river we went through several 
 castles, and went up on the roof and sat upon a 
 bench that the Empress of Russia and Queen Louise 
 lused to sit on to take the air. We saw bonnets and 
 hats belonging to the Emperor and Empress of Rus- 
 :sia. The room of Queen Louise remains as it was, 
 €ven her sewins^ basket with the needle in the em- 
 
86 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 broidery is just as she left it. It is said Emperor 
 William adores the memory of his beautiful mother 
 who died young. We also saw in the distance 
 Glienecke, with a chateau of Prince Frederick Karl 
 with a large park; also a Greek chapel, founded in 
 1826, by Frederick William III., for the accomodation 
 of the Russian singers, who were at that time at- 
 tached to the 1st Regiment of Guards; also a marble 
 palace occupied by Prince William. 
 
 We returned to Berlin b}^ rail after spending a de- 
 lightful day. We were taking the street car for the 
 hotel, when Prince William and his family passed in 
 an open carriage. Berlin is a grand city; we rode 
 in horse-cars made in Xew York, and the Berliners 
 smoke Richmond, Va., cigarettes. We went to the 
 Belle Alliance Theatre and gardens, which is very 
 grand, with lakes of water, with lilies floating on 
 the surface, the heart of every flower contained a 
 light of some sort; fuchsias, dahlias, tulips, in fact, 
 every flower that could be mentioned held a light; 
 grape vines, with bunches of grapes embowering the 
 grottoes, were filled with electric lights. I thought 
 I had suddenly been transported to Fairyland ; the 
 open air theatre was very fine ; there were three chil- 
 dren from California, two girls and a boy, who sang, 
 in English, "Jingling Bells," then a German song, 
 then again, in English, "My Home Over the Sea;" 
 there were many Americans, who encored them sev- 
 eral times; the children were beautifully dressed; 
 the music was grand, W§ vidted. many beautifu] 
 
Germany. 87 
 
 gardens and theatres, but the grandest was the King's 
 Opera House, which we visited with some friends. 
 The ladies all go in full evening dress, without hats 
 or bonnets; we saw many lovely American and Eng- 
 lish ladies, richly dressed; the play w^as the " Trum- 
 peter of Sickengen," taken from incidents that took 
 place at the Castle of Heidelberg after the thirty, 
 years' war. It was the grandest piece I ever saw; 
 the music was very sweet; the stage costumes were 
 very elegant; the Royal boxes were filled with Court 
 ladies and gentemen, in full evening dress. Between 
 the acts the ladies as well as gentlemen go out for 
 refreshments. There is an elegant ice cream saloon 
 under the Opera House. We went to another The- 
 atre, where a play, called ''The Wild Cat," had been 
 running over a hundred nights to very large au- 
 diences. It was some kind of a Mexican play. The 
 night we went it was raining, and the audience, be- 
 tween the acts, promenaded in A yard covered with 
 glass. To tell of the many lovely gardens and parks 
 we visited, would require too much time. We were 
 always on the go, from one delightful place to ano- 
 ther. We took several meals in Emperor William's 
 tent. Here are a number of restaurants, built by 
 Frederick the Great, and everybody stops on their 
 way to and fro to the "Their Garden." We went 
 through Emperor William's stables, saw 110 of his 
 riding and other horses; saw the horse that was 
 hitched to the chariot when the Emperor of Eussia 
 was blown up by the explosion of the shell. The 
 
88 RecollecUons of a Trip to Euro])e. 
 
 horse, a powerful black, was wounded on the back; 
 he was [wesented, with several others, to the Emperor 
 by the present Emperor of Russia. We went through 
 the Emperor's Palace, even in his private I'ooms. 
 Tlie}^ are magnificently furnished, but in the Empe- 
 ror's room, where he writes and spends most of his 
 time, we had to pick our way over and through the 
 •costly bric-a-brac and Dresden vases. In one room is 
 ^ grand piano, presented by the citizens of Breslau 
 on his silver w^edding-day. In one corner is a statue 
 of the Crown Prince, in solid silver. Beautiful pic- 
 tures are everywhere. The Emperor's bed-room is 
 very simply furnished. Over the bed hangs the pic- 
 ture of his mother, Queen Louise. We also went 
 through the apartments of the Empress. In the 
 Emperor's private room the blue corn flower was in 
 vases everywhere. It is his favorite flower; it is said 
 that Queen Louise, when she was fleeing with her 
 children from Na^^oleon, took refuge in a peas- 
 ant's cottage, and Emperor William being then a 
 boy, would go out and gather the flowers and put 
 them in his mother's hair. It is also said, if a per- 
 son wishes to gain favor with the Emperor he must 
 praise his beautiful mother, who died of a broken 
 heart. A little boy from IN'ew York gave the Em- 
 peror a bouquet of corn flowers, with a card attached, 
 with the words, "greetings from America;" he was 
 very much afl'ected, and sent for the mother of the 
 child, and asked her a great many questions about 
 her familv, and about the American people in gen- 
 
Germany. 81) 
 
 eral. She said she felt very much embarrassed at 
 first, but he was so pleasant that she felt at ease in a 
 few minutes and conversed with him in both German 
 and English. When the Emperor is in Berlin a flag 
 is hoisted over the Palace, then no visitors are ad- 
 mitted. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 The Crown Prince's Palace is very line. Soldiers 
 are always on guard at the diiferent palaces. We 
 saw the Palace of Prince Frederick Karl. Before it 
 is an open space, where he had loads of sand placed 
 so the children could play in it while he would sit at 
 the window and watch them. As we passed we could 
 see a great many children with their little shovels 
 building houses in the sand. The Royal guard- 
 house was constructed in 1818; it is in the form of a 
 Roman fortified gate; adjoining it are three large 
 cannon, one of which was captured at Fort Mont 
 Valerian, at Paris, in 1871. We went every day to- 
 see the soldiers drill. The Arsenal contains many 
 spoils of war, the keys of several captured fortresses^ 
 Most of the flags w^ere brought from Paris in 1814. 
 There is a glass-covered court, around which are 
 ranged groups of French cannon, overhung by 
 French flags, captured in the war of 1870-71. 
 
 While in Berlin we attended a wedding in a church 
 of a couple in the lower ranks of life. The bride- 
 was dressed in purple cashmere, with a wreath of 
 orange blossoms and a white veil. She came in bow- 
 ing and smiling right and left to her friends. The- 
 couple took seats in chairs placed for them before 
 the minister, who stood up dressed in a long white 
 
Germany. 91 
 
 gown; he took tibowt a half-hour to" I'ecite the ser- 
 vice. After the ceremony they went into a room with' 
 the minister to sig^n their naimes, and' when they came 
 out they left in fine style,- they and their friends fill- 
 ing several carriages. The groonl raised his hat, and 
 the crowd on the pavement cheered. I waived my 
 handkerchief, and wag rewarded by a smile and bow 
 from the happy couple. 
 
 We then visited the Nation ftl Ga;llery, which con- 
 tains many handsome paintings and drawings and 
 sculptures. One of the pictures, which riveted our 
 attention, was the Meeting of the Em^peror and Crown 
 Prince on the Battle Field of Koniggratz, life size,, 
 mounted on beautiful horses. The Emperor is clasp- 
 ing the Crown Prince's hand^ and on his face is a 
 look which seems to say, " My soil,- how goes the 
 day?" Behind him, and by his side, ride Bismarck 
 and Von Molkte, and in the distance is seen the 
 smoke of battle. Other handsome paintings which 
 attracted attention, was the Crown Pt^ihce Entering 
 Jerusalem, and I^apol eon's Retreat from Moscow. 
 The rooms on the right of the ante'rooni contain the~ 
 choice picture gallery of Count BacyzHskie, which 
 has been loaned the government for public exhibi- 
 tion. It contains many valuable paintings by old 
 artists. The Hohenzollern Museum consists of 
 personal reminiscenses of the Prussian ruler, from 
 the time .of the great Elector down to the present 
 i\'t\y. The two rooms first visited are devoted to Em- 
 peror Williiim and Empress Augusta, In these^" 
 
*92 Becollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 rooms we saw the table at which Napoleon III. signed 
 the declaration of war at St. Cloud, in 1870. Queen 
 Louise's room contains many paintings; one, the pic- 
 ture of the peasant family who befriended her in her 
 trouble; it hangs in a conspicuous place; in this 
 room is also the cradle of Emperor William. The room 
 of Frederick William II. contains portraits of that 
 monarch's generals, and Napoleon's knife and fork, 
 and his orders, captured at Waterloo; also, orders 
 worn by Blucher; also, a handsome cabinet, made of 
 Neuwied. The three rooms assigned to Frederick the 
 Oreat are the most interesting in the Palace; wax 
 models of Frederick's face after death; his clothes, 
 from childhood to death; and his horse Conde, in his 
 state trappings. The room of Queen Sophia Doro- 
 thea, mother of Frederick the Great, contains inter- 
 esting furniture. We passed through rooms contain- 
 taining the table service of the ditferent Kings. It 
 is impossible to enumerate the many wonderful things 
 to be seen in this palace. 
 
 The new Museum Avas built after the plan of the 
 architect Shinkel. Before the Museum stands a gi- 
 gantic basin, cut out of a solid piece of granite 22 
 feet in diameter. It is said the basin was presented 
 by the Emperor of Russia, and a Professor was over- 
 heard by the Emperor to say he doubted it being of 
 one piece. The Emperor drew his pistol and shot 
 him dead. " The basin stands on the spot. where he 
 fell." The Emperor of Russia got his just deserts 
 when he was blown up by the explosion of the shell. 
 
Germany. 93^ 
 
 There was an old woman kept a fruit stand near 
 one of the Palaces; we often bought fruit of her^ 
 until we heard that when she was quite young she 
 held the light while her sister murdered their mother. 
 She served a term of years in the penitentiary, while 
 her sister was broke on the wheel. I saw in the Mu- 
 seum the wheel, also the spot where she was killed. 
 After this woman who kept the fruit stand came out 
 of prison, she had no money or friends, so she sold 
 her body to the city of Berlin, to be embalmed and 
 put in the Museum after her death. She then opened 
 a fruit stand and seemed to be doing a good business^ 
 but I never went by her without a shudder. Since 
 my return I have heard she died, and her body is in 
 the Museum. The Panoptican, or Gallery of Wax 
 Figures, is very line. As we went up the steps, in a 
 large hall, I was struck by seeing Prince Bismarck 
 standing at the head of a long table, as if making a 
 speech, while men were writing and some listenings 
 and Count Herbert Bismarck stood at the foot of the 
 table paying particular attention to what his father 
 was saying. They looked so natural that I really 
 could not believe them wax. As I did not know 
 what the Panoptican meant, 1 thought I was in some 
 kind of a Congress Hall, but I soon saw my mistake, 
 and went from room to room admiring the figures, 
 all as natural as life. There stands Gartield and 
 Washington, side by side. In the murderer's hall, 
 among instruments of torture of olden times, stands- 
 Guiteau, the murderer of Garfield. In one room was. 
 
'94 Becollections of a Trip to Europe, 
 
 ;a mountain of cake, where the persons who wished 
 to enter the Gourmand country, must first eat through 
 this mountain. Two men had eaten through, and 
 were having a happy time drinking port wine, which 
 flowed from a large pump, and eating wild ducks, 
 which were ready cooked flying in the air; where 
 pickles hung on trees; and sausages, oj^sters, rye 
 bread, sour krout and Limb,urger cheese, and every 
 .delicacy, were to be found in this land. One man 
 had eaten enough to get his head thro.ugh, and in the 
 distance more could be seen tr^^ing to reach this de- 
 lightful land. In another room, some old maids? 
 looking like they might be a hundred, were going in 
 ;a bath to come out young. It was very amusing. 
 In one room we passed through, I .observed a gen- 
 tleman sitting at a table, with his hat on the floor and 
 a dog sitting by his side. On the table beside him 
 was a glass of wine and a glass of beer. I thought 
 he was a visitor, and was refreshing himself; so, in 
 passing through again, he still sat there, and nothing 
 was missing from his glass, and I knew then he was 
 wax. In passing up stairs, I observved a lady in walk- 
 ing costume looking over the balustrade in the hall 
 below. She stood there so long I began to wonder 
 what she was looking at so attentively. Every once 
 in a while she would turn and look aboiut the hall, 
 then lean over the balustrade again ; so curiosity 
 .overcame me ; I went up and looked in her face, and 
 was fooled again ; she., too, was wax. For the bene- 
 fit of the children., I will say I .saw ;two little chil- 
 
Germawi. 95 
 
 dreii, lost in the forest, who were very liun^ry, and 
 they came across a house buih of ginger cakes, and 
 the chimneys and windows were made of peppermint 
 •candy, so they stopped, and being very hungry they 
 <}ommenced eating pieces of cake oif the house, when 
 an old woman came out, with a big wart on her nose, 
 and made them scamper. 
 
 We saw the death-warrant of. Mary, Queen of 
 J^cots^ and of the Earl of Essex, and the wax figure 
 of Charlotte Corday, in her prison cell ; ( )liver Crom- 
 w^ell at the cofSn of Charles L; Queen Elizabeth at 
 the death-bed of the Countess of Nottingham. She 
 stands with her right hand raised to Heaven as she 
 •says, "God may forgive you, I never will." Gen- 
 eral Gordon is in the window, and (Jueen Louise 
 holding Emperor William (then two years old) in 
 arms. I think Qneen Louise the most beautiful wo- 
 man I ever saw. All over the building are wax 
 figures of her, taken at diiterent times. The Panop- 
 tican contains the wax figures of many eminent per- 
 sons. There stands Yoltaire, Pauline Lucca, Hum- 
 boldt, Frederick the Great, N'apoleon I., Napoleon 
 HI., Prince Louis Napoleon, Alexander H. of Russia, 
 several Russian generals, all the royal family, the 
 Prince of Wales, all the celebrated musicians and 
 poets, Marie Antoinette; the hands, in wax, of the 
 Crown Princess, Queen Victoria, General Field Mar- 
 shal Moltke and Wrangel, Queen Charlotte of En- 
 . gland, and the Russian Trumpeters. We saw the 
 figure of the man who was the inventor of the infer- 
 
96 Bccollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 nal machine, and was engaged in the catastrophe in 
 Bremen-Haven, 11th of December, 1875; he was a 
 fine looking man, and an American. 
 
 We drove through many beautiful parks; one 
 called the Thiergarten, covers upwards of six hun- 
 dred acres of ground. It is enlivened by several 
 sheets of water, and combines the character of a na- 
 tural forest, with .the trimmer beauties of a public 
 park. In this park we met the Emperor's carriage, 
 driver and footman, and the ladies of the Chinese 
 Embassy driving^^out; they wore no bonnets or hats, 
 but had their hair dressed wdth ilowers and jewels. 
 In this park the Crown Princess had a private play- 
 ground made for poor children. It is said the Crown 
 Prince and Princess are very much beloved by the 
 people, and as they were walking in the Park with 
 their children they heard some one breaking sticks, 
 and found an old woman gathering fuel. The Crown 
 Prince asked her if she did not know it was against 
 the law to gather fuel in the park ? She told him she 
 knew it was, but being poor she thought it no harm 
 to gather a few sticks. The Crown Prince and Prin- 
 cess gave her some money and the children helped 
 to fill the old woman's basket, when she went on her 
 way blessing them. The Crown Prince is very popu- 
 lar with his soldiers; he romps and plays like a boy 
 with the private soldiers, and often hands his cigar 
 case around. The finest statue in the Thiergarten is 
 the marble monument to Frederick William III., ex- 
 ecuted in 1849. It is covered in winter: also, one to 
 
Germany. 97 
 
 Queen Louise, in 1880, which is grand; and a mon- 
 ument to Goethe; there is also a magnificent group 
 of hons. The Zoological Garden contains the finest 
 collection of animals in the world ; the grounds are 
 beautifully laid out, and always thronged with visit- 
 ors; concerts are given every evening, and refresh- 
 ments can be had anywhere on the grounds. In this 
 garden we saw some natives of Sumalia ride ostriches, 
 by getting on their backs and holding by their wings; 
 they go faster than a horse. They had with them 
 the skins 9f tigers and other animals, and curiosities 
 of all kinds, which were for sale. 
 
 There is in the garden of the Herrenhausen, in 
 Berlin, a very old tree, over 800 years old; its height 
 is about 38 feet, and its lower circumference about 
 five feet. When they built the new hall, King Fred- 
 erick William IV. saved the venerable tree from de- 
 struction. When, in 1866, on the return of the re- 
 giment of the Guard from Bohemia, a festival was 
 given in the garden, and Emperor William's stand 
 was erected at the foot of this historical tree. 
 
 In one of the museums in Berlin, devoted to 
 Northern antiquities^ they have the representations 
 from the idols, from which the names of the days of 
 our week are derived. 
 
 The Prussians and French do not like each other 
 for the French are always boasting of ^^dlat they can 
 do. On one occasion a Prussian general, named Yon 
 Manteufel, was in company with the French minister 
 at Berlin, and as usual he was boasting of what his 
 
98 Recollections of a Trip to Eurox>e. 
 
 country could do ; he said they could make something 
 of nothing. The general became very angry, and 
 pulling one gray hair out of his moustache, handed 
 it to the French minister, and told him to make 
 something out of that. The minister took the hair 
 and sent it to a jeweler in Paris ^ telling him the cir- 
 cumstance, and that money was no object. It was 
 sent back to Berlin ; the imperial eagle holding the 
 hair in its beak; on each end of the hair a tiny 
 gold ball; on one was Alsace, on the other Lorraine. 
 On the breast of the eagle were the letters, " Held 
 only by a single hair." The French minister pre- 
 sented it to the Prussian general. 
 
CHAPTER YI. 
 
 After spending three weeks in Berlin, and expect- 
 ing to return after a trip up the Ehine, we left on the 
 4th of July, 1885, for Magdeburg^ with a friend who 
 spoke English. As we passed Wild Park station, 
 near the Crown Prince's summer residence, we saw 
 three ladies, plainly dressed in black cashmere suits, 
 standing near, while a carriage and attendants were 
 waiting. Our friend told us they were the Crown 
 Prince's three daughters come to see some one off. 
 On the same train with us was the Duke of Coburg 
 Gotha. Magdeburg is the capital and seat of govern- 
 ment of the Prussian province of Saxony, a fortress 
 of the first rank, situated on the left bank of the 
 Elbe, which is here divided in three arms. It is one 
 of the most important towns in Forth Germany; 
 possesses numei^ous wool, cotton, sugar, spirit, to- 
 bacco, chocolate, and other factories. The houses in 
 one street date mostly from the 17th century. The 
 Cathedral,- a massive structure, was erected in 1208, 
 oi#the site of the ancient Benedictine Church, which 
 was burnt down. In the chapel beneath the towers 
 is a monument to Archbishop Ernest; beneath, a 
 simple marble slab in the choir, reposes Emperor 
 Otho L, died 973; behind the high altar, his wife 
 Editha, died 947. The pulpit is of alabaster, modern 
 
100 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 stained glass windows. Tilly's Marshal staff, gloves 
 and helmet, and an indulgence chest of the notorious 
 Tetzel, are also shown to the curious. Magdeburg 
 suffered terribly in the thirty years' war in 1629; 
 it successfull}' resisted Wallenstein during seven 
 months, but was taken by storm by Tilly in 1631, 
 and almost totally destroyed. It contains many hand- 
 some private dwellings; a fine depot; elegant hotels 
 and gardens ; there is also a monument to Otho I. ; 
 the restaurant Belvediere is a favorite resort on the El- 
 be. It has a handsome terrace and pleasure grounds, 
 with a war monument. We also saw a Monastery, 
 founded in 937, suppressed in 1810, and destroyed 
 in 1812. 
 
 We visited a garden on the suburbs, where the 
 officers were giving a garden party to celebrate the 
 25th anniversary of their stay in Magdeburg. They 
 had a large band of music; the ladies were dressed 
 in Kun's veiling of different colors, and wore large 
 garden hats, trimmed to match their dresses; they 
 danced in the open air; the officers were in rich uni- 
 forms; it was a beautiful scene; they danced German 
 cotillons, which seemed to take a long time, and the 
 figures were hard to understand, as I noticed they 
 became confused sometimes. After dancing until 
 they were tired, the}^ went down on a beautiful green, 
 and engaged in difierent plays until supper was an- 
 nounced. A grand banquet was given in the hotel, 
 and afterwards the grounds were illuminated by Chi- 
 nese lanterns. All seemed to be having a gay time. 
 
Germany. 101 
 
 They were iHiildiiig a car track from the city to this 
 garden, and the men had a Lager beer keg on tap on 
 the side of the road ; every once in a ^Yhile they 
 wonld go up and take a drink and sit down and have 
 a chat ; no one seemed to be in much of a hurry ; in 
 fact, I noticed all through Germany, there is not the 
 constant rush there is in America; everybody 
 seemed to take their time about everything, and were 
 happy and contented. In coming back from the gar- 
 den we stopped to see the soldiers drill ; it was a beau- 
 tiful sight to watch them giving signals, sending up 
 balloons, just like they were in battle; the couriers 
 were flying around, and reinforcements were con- 
 stantly coming in, and the smoke hung like a pall 
 over the field. It was a grand sight. The cavalry 
 regiments in the Prussian army are also carefully 
 drilled in the art of swimming their horses across 
 rivers; this feat is performed with the utmost pre- 
 cision and rapidity, whole regiments crossing and re- 
 ■ crossing in an astonishingl}' short time. 
 
 In the cemetery in Magdeburg the graves are well 
 kept. I stood by one that was covered b}' running 
 roses, and was told a sad little story about the ones 
 who were buried beneath. It seems a young lady 
 was unhappily married., and obtained a divorce from 
 her husband, and fell in love with a young lieutenant 
 who was wounded at the battle of Sedan, and brought 
 home to die. He requested to be married to the lady 
 on his death-bed; they were married, and the lieu- 
 tenant died, and was buried with military honors. 
 
102 jRecolledions of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 A few days after, the widowed bride w^as missing 
 from her home, and after an unsuccessful search some 
 one suggested the cemetery. They found her dead on 
 her husband's grave; they opened the grave and bu- 
 ried them together. I stood a long time meditating 
 beside their graves. A little bird had built a nest 
 over the hearts of those who slept beneath (under the 
 roses). Let us hope they are happy, and united in 
 another and a fairer world. 
 
 We went to another garden, where an American 
 walked the tight-rope and performed some difficult 
 feats in bycicle and trycicle riding. 
 
 We visited the salt mines, a few miles from the 
 city, the operations of which were very interesting. 
 
CHAPTER YII. 
 
 After leaving Magdeburg, we took the train for 
 Hanover^ and met some pleasant company who spoke 
 English and explained many things we saw on the 
 route. In the car was a German Baron, who wore 
 very handsome diamonds. We passed many lovely 
 villas and beautiful country seats, arriving in Han- 
 over to dinner; went to Kasten's Hotel, a very tine 
 building. The ceiling of the dining-room cost many 
 thousand marks. We spent several days with our 
 friends, and had an invitation from a party of Hol- 
 landers to go with them to the Hartz Mountains, 
 but, having our route laid out, we declined the invi- 
 tation, and promised to visit them in their home 
 some time in the distant future. We went to the 
 Shelitzen Fest, and, as I never saw one before, I was 
 charmed. Every amusement that could be men- 
 tioned was in this garden. It was just like a vil- 
 lage. Over one of the tents was a sign of an old 
 man and woman smoking their pipes, and under- 
 neath were the words " Welcome to Uncle Tom's 
 Cabin." Here and there were tents with the words 
 *'Tanz Music" painted conspicuously over the en- 
 trance, in each of which we saw some twenty or 
 thirty couples whirling in the dizzy waltz. In the 
 refreshment saloons lots of jovial holiday folks were 
 
104 Recolleetkms of a Trij) to Europe. 
 
 feasting on German sausage, black bread, Swiss 
 cheese, beer and Rhine wine. Over one saloon I 
 noticed the sign " Jager's refreshment saloon." 
 They had dancing, racing, balloon ascensions, per- 
 forming horses and dogs, wheels of fortune and cu- 
 riosities of all kinds. They had everything imagina- 
 ble to eat and drink, and all seemed to have a merry 
 time. We saw a black man speaking German like a 
 native. I went up and spoke to him, and he seemed 
 to be delighted to meet some one who spoke his 
 language. He said he was from Charleston, South 
 Carolina, and was traveling with a show. He said 
 when he first started out he made a good deal of 
 money, but now black men were no curiosity in the 
 portion of Germany he had traveled. We spent 
 several days at the Fest, and enjoyed it ever so 
 much. We then left for Dortmund, which is a great 
 mining place with numerous founderies, in West- 
 phalia, and the meeting point of several railways. 
 It is one of the most ancient places in this part of 
 the country, being mentioned in history as early as 
 927. It successfully resisted a siege of twenty-one 
 months by the Archbishop of Cologne and other 
 princes, but after the thirty years' war, lost its im- 
 portance. We took a carriage and drove around 
 the city. A celebrated secret tribunal was founded 
 in AVestphalia after the fall of Henri/ the Lion, at a 
 time when anarchy prevailed throughout Germany, 
 and in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries had ex- 
 tended its sway over the whole empire. The num 
 
Germany. 105 
 
 ber of the initiated, bound bj the most fearful oaths; 
 to execute the decrees of the tribunal, is said to have 
 exceeded 100,000 in Westphalia alone. Dortmund 
 was the seat of the Supreme Court. The Emperor 
 Sigismund himself vciis initiated in 1429. We saw 
 one of the lime trees, which is upwards of four hun- 
 dred years old. It is near the railwaj^ station, and 
 is kept together by bands of iron. In Dortmund 
 we ate some splendid Westphalia ham. After driv- 
 ing around and visiting several stores, we took the 
 train for Dusseldorf, which is a pleasant well-built 
 town on the right bank of the Rhine. We went 
 through the picture gallery, but nearly all the best 
 paintings had been removed to Munich. In the 
 heart of the older part of the town, with its narrow 
 and irregular streets, stands the old Electoral Palace, 
 which was remodeled in 1710 ; restored in Renais- 
 sance style 1846, and almost entirely burned down 
 in 1872. The church of St. Lamber is verj- old. 
 The church of St. Andrew contains the tombs of 
 several great counts. We visited several fine gar- 
 dens and cafes or restaurants; saw many handsome 
 monuments, and were very much pleased with the 
 town. 
 
 We took the train from Dusseldorf to Cologne, one 
 of the most important commercial places in Ger- 
 many, a fortress of the first class. Five-sixths of the 
 inhabitants are Roman Catholics. It is on the left 
 bank of the Rhine, and a bridge of boats connects it 
 with a village called Deutz, on the opposite bank. 
 
106 Recollections of a Trip to Uitrope. 
 
 Cologne, from a distance, with its numerous towers,, 
 presents an imposing appearance, but most of the old. 
 streets are narrow and gloomy; but of late they are 
 improving it very much. Beautiful new streets are- 
 springing up. Room has been made for more by the 
 removal of the old wall, of which now only a few 
 towers remain. The cathedral is the most magnifi- 
 cent Gothic edifice in the world. The largest bell in 
 one of the towers was cast, in 1874, with the metal 
 of French guns, and Aveiglis twenty-five tons. The 
 large stained glass window above the west portal was> 
 presented by the Crown Prince and Princess. The ca- 
 thedral was many hundred years in building, and on 
 the 15th of October, 1880, the completion of the ca- 
 thedral was celebrated in the presence of Emperor 
 William and almost all the sovereign princes of the 
 German Empire. I^o pen can describe the magnifi- 
 cence of this building. There is a fine iron bridge 
 which crosses the Rhine to the east of the cathedral,, 
 completed in 1859; it is broad enough for a double 
 line of rails, and a separate roadway for ordinary 
 trafiic. It is 453 yards long and 47 feet above the 
 average level of the water. Over the entrance on 
 the left (Cologne) bank is the equestrian statue of 
 Frederick William IV. On the right bank an 
 equestrian statue of Emperor William I., both exe- 
 cuted in 1867. The approach to the bridge afibrds a 
 good survey of the choir of the cathedral. Cologne 
 contains many places of interest. The synagogue was 
 built at the expense of the banker, Oppenheimer; it is 
 
Germany. 107 
 
 covered with a handsome gilded dome. There is also- 
 a fine theatre, many handsome churches and a statue 
 of Prince Bismarck, unveiled in 1879. There is also 
 a square, planted with trees; in the midst is the hand- 
 some Apostles' Church. When the plague raged at 
 Cologne, in 1357, Richnodes Von Lyskirchen, wife 
 of the knight, Von Adocht, was attacked by the mal- 
 ady, and, having fallen in a death-like swoon, was in- 
 terred in the Apostles' Church. Being awakened 
 from her trance by a thievish grave-digger, in his at- 
 tempt to abstract her rings, she returned to the 
 house of her husband, who, imagining he beheld an 
 apparition, declared he would sooner belie veh is 
 horses could ascend to the loft of his house, than his 
 departed wife could return to this earth in the flesh. 
 " Scarcely had the words escaped his lips," so the 
 legend says, " than horses' hoofs were heard ascend- 
 ing the stairs, and their heads were speedily seen 
 looking out of a window in the upper story of the 
 house." The lady recovered and lived many years 
 afterwards. The two horses' heads are still there, 
 said to have been placed there to commemorate the 
 miraculous event. 
 
 We also saw the Church of St. Ursula, of the 5th 
 century. Near the choir ait aisle contains the monu- 
 ment, erected in 1658, to St. Ursula, an English prin- 
 cess, who, according to the legend, when on her re- 
 turn from a pilgrimage to Home, was barbarously 
 murdered at Cologne, with her 11,000 virgin attend- 
 ants. The figure is in alabaster, with a dove at the 
 
108 Recolkctions of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 feet. The bones of these virgin martyrs are pre- 
 served in cases put around the Church. The Jesuifs 
 Church is also very handsome ; the bell was cast with 
 the metal of cannon taken bv Tillv at Magdeburg, 
 and presented by him to the Church. The Zoologi- 
 cal garden is very fine. A band of music plays three 
 times weekly. There is a harbor where vessels take 
 refuge from the floating ice. And several spinning 
 factories. 
 
 It would be impossible to tell of the many histori- 
 cal buildings and places of resort. When we left 
 Cologne, the tables in the dining room were packed 
 with flasks of Cologne made by Jules Farina, and 
 crowds of tourists were buying it to bring to America 
 and other parts of the world. We left Cologne on 
 the steamer up the Rhine for Coblentz, having heard 
 the Emperor and Empress were there. 
 
 How can I describe the sail up the Rhine? The 
 air was so mild, we had dinner on deck, and as we 
 passed from one castle to another, on both sides, it 
 was errand. I never shall foro-et it : old iw wreathed 
 gothic ruins, hallowed by tradition; the royal palaces; 
 the stately homes of the nobility; the straw-roofed 
 huts of the peasantry; the many strange scenes in 
 foreign lands, will never be forgotten. On the steamer 
 was an American lady and gentleman. The lady did 
 not seem to enjoy the grandeur of the scene. She 
 said she was too much of an American to care for 
 anything foreign, and that the Hudson river was far 
 more beautiful than the Rhine, and that the Catskills 
 
Germany. 109 
 
 and Adirondacks had far more attractions for her 
 than Mount Bhmc or any mountain she saw in Eu- 
 rope. I came near asking her why she came to Eu- 
 rope, but, as she was not speaking to me I thought I 
 had better keep quiet. When the steamer landed at 
 Coblentz I was really sorry, for I never tired of the 
 scenery. We stopped at Hotel Traube, and had a 
 lovely room, with glass doors leading out on a bal- 
 cony filled with flowers, where we had a full view of 
 the Ehine and the Fort of Ehrenbreitstein on the op- 
 posite side. 
 
 Coblentz carries on an important wine trade, and 
 manufactures large quantities of Champagne, most 
 of which is sent to England and the British colonies. 
 The town is surrounded by a wall. Few towns on the 
 Rhine can vie with Coblentz in beauty of situation. 
 It is at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle, two 
 of the most picturesque rivers in Europe, and com- 
 mands charming views in every direction. In the 
 thirty years' war it was alternately besieged and gar- 
 risoned by Swedish, French and Imperial troops. In 
 1688, although the town was nearly destroyed by the 
 French cannonade, they were compelled to retreat 
 without effecting an entry. We saw the Palace of 
 the Empress Augusta. She was spending a few 
 weeks there, but the Emperor had left for Mns, where 
 we intended going later. We walked through beau- 
 tiful grounds, tastefully laid out under the auspices 
 of Empress Augusta. On Sunday we determined to- 
 visit the Fort Ehrenbreitstein, sometimes called the 
 
110 Bccollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 Gibralter of the Khine, situated on a precipitous 
 rock 387 feet above the Ehine, and 573 feet above the 
 sea, inaccessible on three sides. The massive fortifi- 
 cations were long considered a marvel of military en- 
 gineering. This fortress has only thrice succumbed 
 to an enemy. On the first of these occasions it fell 
 in the hands of the French in 1631, through the 
 treachery of Elector Philip-Christopher. In 1637, 
 the Imperial General Johan Yon Werth, invested it 
 with his troops, and the garrison was forced to capit- 
 ulate, through hunger. 
 
 Durins: the war of the French Eevolution EJwen- 
 hreitstein was unsuccessfully besieged four times, but 
 on the 27th of January, 1799, was surrendered by 
 the gallant Col. Faber after all the provisions had 
 been exhausted. Visitors are conducted over the 
 fortress by a sergeant. Cards of admission are given 
 for which a small sum is paid, which is given to 
 charitable purposes. The Louisa Tower, on the 
 west slope of the hill, derives its name from the 
 Grand Duchess Louisa, of Baden, daughter of the 
 Emperor of Germany, who spent some of her early 
 years at Coblentz. After viewing the fort, from the 
 t:op of which we had a fine view of the Rhine and 
 all the surrounding country, instead of going back to 
 Ooblentz that day, we kept on to Ems^ and on the 
 way stopped at a very fine Catholic church, the 
 name of which I have forgotten. The ceiling over 
 the altar was of pearl. Everywhere in the grounds 
 -was the imas^e of the Viro^in Mary in white marble 
 
Germany. Ill 
 
 while the people in crowds knelt before it. Other 
 figures, representing Bible history, were in different 
 parts of the grounds. A guide conducted us through 
 and explained everything. After resting and taking 
 refreshments at the mn, we continued our journey to 
 Evis, which we reached in time for dinner. After 
 dinner we went to see the different places of interest; 
 were disappointed to hear the emperor had just left 
 for Darmstadt, so had to content myself with a news- 
 paper with the list of arrivals, the emperor heading 
 the list. Ems is visited annually by 12,000 patients, 
 besides 5,000 tourists. The town is prettily sit- 
 uated on both banks of the Lahn, in a narrow valley 
 •enclosed by wooded and vine clad rocky heights. 
 It consists of a street of lodging houses on the right 
 bank of the river. The river is spanned by four 
 bridges. The Cursall, the Curhaus and the Cur 
 garden adjoining form the centre of attraction to 
 visitors. The pleasure grounds of the latter being 
 thronged with a fashionable crowd, while the band 
 plays in the afternoon. The Cursall contains several 
 magnificent saloons, a reading-room, a restaurant 
 :and Cafe. We stood on the marble slab which is 
 placed in the ground to indicate the spot where, on 
 the 13th of July, 1870, King William ordered his 
 adjutant Count Lehndorf to give his memorable an- 
 swer to the obtrusive French ambassador Benne- 
 detti. There is a covered promenade for visitors in 
 wet weather, and lovely shaded walks on the left 
 bank of the river. On top of a high jagged rock of 
 
112 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 slate is a tower built for the sake of the view. The 
 bathhouse erected in 1853, each of its courts being 
 embellished with fountains of mineral water, worked 
 by steam. We spent a delightful day, and drove 
 home by moonlight. In passing through a little 
 town there was some kind of a festival going on^ 
 and the band was playing a gay tune, and the lads 
 and lassies were tripping the light fantastic toe. 
 There were crarlands of flowers huno; across the 
 streets, and flags w^ere flying from the windows, 
 while the guests were having a jolly time. When 
 we arrived at Coblentz it was about ten o'clock. 
 We retired much pleased with our day visit. 
 
 The next day we took a carriage and drove to 
 every place of interest; to a plateau employed as a 
 military drilling-ground; was, in 1870-'71, occupied 
 by an encampment of 10,000 French prisoners of war. 
 The palace is a large building, and was converted by 
 the French into a hospital and barracks. It was after- 
 w-ards restored by the Prussian government, and fit- 
 ted up as a palace in 1845. 
 
 The Church at St. Castor is very fine, and has sev- 
 eral tow^ers. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 We took the steamer for Biiigeii — "fair Biiigen 
 on the Rhine." We passed many ancient castles and 
 small towns, all of which have a history. On a 
 rocky eminence stands two castles, called "the broth- 
 ers," connected by sharp rocks. The legend of 
 these castles may be briefly told: Conrad and 
 Heinrich, sons of the knight, Bayer Von Poppard, 
 the Lord of Leibensiein, were enamored of their foster 
 sister, the beautiful Hildegarde. Hemrich, with rare 
 generosity, tore himself away and joined the Cru- 
 sades, leaving his brother, Conrad, to win the prize. 
 That his son and his fair bride might still be near 
 him, the old knight built the castle of Sterrenburg 
 for their reception, but his death occurring before its 
 completion, the nuptials were postponed; meanwhile, 
 Conrad's heart grew cold towards Hildegarde. 
 Hearing of the valient deeds of his absent brother, 
 his soul burned to share his honors, and weary of an 
 inactive life, he joined the Crusades. Hildegarde 
 now passed her days in the lonely castle, brooding 
 over her sad fate, not doubting the affection of Con- 
 rad, but weeping over the uncertainty of his return. 
 Suddenly Conrad returned to Sterrenburg with a 
 lovely Grecian bride, and the outraged Hildegarde, 
 stunned by the blow, shut herself up in the loneliest 
 
114 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 chamber of her dreary abode, and refused to see any 
 'One but her attendant. 
 
 Late one evening a stranger knight demanded the 
 hospitahty of the castle. He proved to be the chiv- 
 ah'ous Heinrich, who, hearing of his brother's perfidy 
 and his foster sister's wrongs, challenged Conrad to 
 single combat; but Hildegarde interposed between 
 them, and insisted on a reconciliation, to Avhich they 
 reluctantly consented. Hildegarde then retired to 
 the convent of Bonnhofe'n, at the base of the rock 
 on which the castle stands. 
 
 Conrad's Grecian bride soon proved faithless, and 
 he, overcome with shame and remorse, threw him- 
 self on his generous brother's breast, exclaiming that 
 no consolation was now left him but his friendship. 
 Thus their estrangement ended, and the brothers 
 thenceforth lived together in harmony and retirement 
 at Liebenstein, while Sterrenburg was forever de- 
 serted; the ruins are very interesting. 
 
 There is another large ledge of rocks called the 
 Lurlie, 433 feet above the Rliine. The legend says a 
 nymph had her dwelling on the rock, and like the 
 Sirens of old, enticed sailors and fishermen to their 
 destruction. In the rapids at the foot of the preci- 
 pice, the legend says a treasure lies buried beneath 
 the Lurlenberg. Our steamer fired a gun, so we 
 could hear the famous echo, but it can only be heard 
 in the quiet of the early morning or late evening. 
 The edge of the Lurlie rock presents the appearance 
 of a human profile, supposed to resemble that of Xa- 
 
Germany. 115 
 
 poleon I. There is a rock}' point to the left, which 
 the railway penetrates by a tunnel, a ridge of rocks, 
 known as the "Seven Virgins," visible when the 
 river is low. It is said that these ruoro;ed masses were 
 once seven fair maidens of the Schihiburg, who were 
 condemned by the river-god for their prudery to this 
 metamorphosis. There is a ruined castle, called the 
 Devil's Ladder, of which a legend records that a 
 Knight of Lorch, with the assistance of mountain 
 sprites, once scaled on horseback, and thus gained 
 the hand of his lady love. In going up the Rhine, 
 to the right is Clemen's Kapel, a small chapel lately 
 restored by the Princess Fredericka of Prussia. The 
 history of the Church is unknown, but it is on re- 
 cord that it was once visited by Emperor Maxmillian 
 I. It was supposed to have been built by the Knights 
 of Waldeck, to insure the soul's peace of the robber 
 knights slain or hanged by Kudolph of Hapsburg. 
 A little above the church rises the picturesque Castle 
 of Rheinstein. In 1825-29, Prince Frederick of Prus- 
 sia, caused the castle to be restored inlthe mediawal 
 style, and he died in 1863, and was interred in the cha- 
 pel. On a ledge of rocks in the middle of the Rhine, 
 rises a small building, well preserved; it has a tower, 
 and covered with an unsightly roof; numerous turrets 
 jutting corners, loop-holes in every direction, and one 
 entrance only, situated about six feet above the rock, 
 and reached by means of a ladder. The upper angle 
 of the building, with its stanchions and grappling 
 irons, serves to break the force of the floating ice in 
 
116 Recollections of a Trip to Eiirojye. 
 
 winter. To the right of the entrance is a tablet, 
 commemorating the passage of the Rhine on Janu- 
 ary 1st, 1814. 
 
 At this point, early on IS'ew-year's day, 1814, a 
 Prussian corps, under York, and a division of Rus- 
 sian troops, under Langeron, effected the passage of 
 the Rhine, under the direction of Blucher; a small 
 monument, in sandstone, commemorates this event. 
 
 Assmannhausen is a village, with 960 inhabitants; 
 it is celebrated for its full bodied and highly flavored 
 red wine; has a warm alkaline spring, containing 
 liihici, which was known as far back as the Roman 
 period. 
 
 Beyond Assmannhausen the steamer reaches the 
 Binger Loch, a rapid caused by the narrowness of 
 the rocky channel, the widening of which has been the 
 work of ages. The passage is now free from danger, 
 but in descending, the larger rafts require to be 
 piloted with extreme caution. The steep slopes of 
 the Riidesheimer mountains yield the wine of that 
 name, and terrace rise above terrace, to secure the 
 soil from washing away. The hill is completely 
 covered with walls and arches ; the careful preserva- 
 tion of which conve^^s an idea of the value of the 
 vines. According to tradition, Charlemagne ob- 
 served from his palace at Ingelheim that the snow 
 always melted flrst on the Riidesheimer Mount, and 
 therefore caused vines to be brought from Orleans 
 and planted there. On a quartz rock, in the middle 
 of the Rhine, is situated the Mouse tower, said to 
 
Germany. 117 
 
 derive its name from the well known legend of the 
 cruel Archbishop Hatto, of Mayence, having caused 
 a number of poor people, whom he compared to 
 mice, bent on devouring the corn, to be burned in 
 a barn during a famine. He was immediately at- 
 tacked by mice, which tormented him day and night. 
 He then sought refuge on this island, but was fol- 
 lowed by his persecutors and soon devoured alive. 
 The tower, however, Avas in reality erected in the 
 middle ages as a watch tower, and the name is de- 
 rived from the old German word "viusee^'' " to spy." 
 In 1856 the ruins were again converted into a kind 
 of watch-tower for making signals to steamers, 
 which, in descending the river, are required to 
 slacken speed here, when other vessels are coming 
 ap the stream. Nearly opposite Bingen is a rock in 
 the Rhine marked with a black cross, in which the 
 heart of the Rhenish historian, Voigt, who died 
 1836, was deposited at his own request. After 
 viewing the beautiful scenery on the historic Rhine, 
 we landed at Bingen and saw the yellow sunlight 
 fall on the vine clad hills of Bingen, " Fair Bingen 
 on the Rhine." 
 
 We took a carriage and drove to Hotel Hartman, 
 situated on a high hill, in full view of the Mederwald 
 Monument on the other side of the Rhine. 
 
 Bino^en is a Hessian town, situated at the conilu- 
 ence of the Nahe and Rhine. In the middle ages it 
 was a free town of the Empire, and one of the ear- 
 liest members of the confederation of Rhenish towns. 
 
118 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 Dnrins^ the thirty years' war it was repeatedly cap- 
 tured, and in 1689, it was ahnost totally destroyed by 
 the French. Bingen carries on a large trade in wine. 
 Above the town, on the site of the ancient Roman 
 Fortress, rises the castle of Klopp, which was de- 
 stroyed by the French in 1689, but has been taste- 
 fully restored and extended. 
 
 The finest points in the neighborhood of Bingen, 
 are the Rochuscapelle. In order to reach it we passed 
 the cemetery, which contains monuments to the 
 memory of ISTapoleon's veterans^ and of the campaign 
 of 1870-71. There is an old tombstone which con- 
 tains an epitaph which seemed to amuse everyone 
 who read it. 
 
 Rudesheim is just across the river from Bingen. 
 The celebrated wine of that place can boast of the 
 longest pedigree on the Rhine. It is a nice little 
 town, with 3,700 inhabitants, who live by the culture 
 of the vine; lies in a sunny situation at the south 
 base of the Niederwald. At the lower end of the 
 town rises the Castle of Bromberg, which was ori- 
 ginally the seat of the Knights of Riidesheim, whOy 
 in 1282, were compelled to become vassals of the 
 Archbishop of Mayence, as a punishment for bri- 
 gandage; part of it was destroyed in 1640. 
 
 The Mederwald Monument, erected in commemo- 
 ration of the unanimous rising of the German peo- 
 ple, and the restoration of the German Empire in 
 1870-71, stands on a hill opposite Bingen, conspicu- 
 ous far and wide. It was inaugurated in 1883, in the 
 
Germany. 119 
 
 presence of the Emperor and numerous other Ger- 
 man princes. The huge base is 78 feet high, while 
 the noble form of Germania, with the Imperial 
 Crown, and the laurel-wreathed sword, an emblem of 
 the unity and strength of the Empire, is 33 feet in 
 height. It keeps watch over the Rhine; it contains 
 portraits of the Emperor, and other German princes 
 and generals; and also represents the departure and 
 return of troops. This magniiicent monument cost 
 many thousand marks. We left Bingen on the train 
 for Kreutznach, on the river Nahe, about ten miles 
 from the Rhine. It is the birthplace of one of our 
 townsmen. It is a very picturesque little town; has 
 two-story little houses built out on the piers. We 
 stopped at Hotel Rees, kept by a widow lady with 
 three daughters, one married, who spoke English; 
 we met an American family there, who were very 
 pleasant, and w^e had quite a nice time. 
 
 Kreutznach is famous for its salt springs, which are 
 much frequented, and visited by upwards of six thou- 
 sand patients annually. The salt baths are particu- 
 larly beneficial in cases of scrofula and cutaneous dis- 
 eases. Reese Hotel is a mile from the city, but it is 
 a lovely walk, Avith seats all along the road. We 
 would walk up every day, once or twice. The band 
 plays every day at the Curhaus or the Spring; we sit 
 for hours in the covered walk-way which leads through 
 the park to the extreme end, where is situated the 
 Elizabeth Spring, the waters of which are drunk 
 twice a day, as part of the cure. There are a great 
 
120 jRecoUectmis of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 many handsome stores, which sell all kinds of fancy 
 articles, made of Agate. 
 
 While we were at Ivrentznach, we went on a 
 Sunday to see a horse race, as I had never seen one. 
 There were many Americans present, who bet 
 pretty freely. I liked the races very much, but one 
 of the jockeys, in clearins^ the hurdle, met with an 
 accident, his horse rolling over on him. He was 
 taken up for dead, but was not hurt as bad as first 
 supposed. 
 
 There are lovely walks across the river, on the 
 left bank of which is a castle called the Schlossberg, 
 a hill laid out as private pleasure grounds. Shady 
 walks ascend the hill from the bridge over the IS'ahe. 
 The ruined castle, of Krauzenberg, the ancient seat 
 of the Sponhewi family, which was destroyed by the 
 French in 1689, commands a fine view of the valley. 
 A lion, hewn in stone, commemorates the gallant 
 conduct of Michael Mort, a butcher of Kreuznach, 
 who sacrificed his life in a battle against Archbishop 
 Werner, of Mayence, in 1279, to save his Prince, 
 Johann Von Sponheim. We had some delightful 
 walks and rides and sails in pleasure boats, covered 
 with awnings, rowed by boatmen in picturesque 
 costumes. Sometimes we would go up in a boat to 
 the city and ride back in a carriage. And we would 
 often stand on the bridge at Kreutznach and watch 
 the boats pass under, filled with tourists, singing 
 merry songs. We spent a delightful week at Kreut- 
 nach, every day making some excursion. One day 
 
Germ any. 121 
 
 we crossed the bridge and went up on a high moun- 
 tain, where we had a full view of Bingen and the 
 Mederwald Monument. We went to the Kothenfels, 
 a perpendicular cliff, T)00 feet high, from which we 
 had a magnificent view; in coming down we came in 
 a road down the mountain like a winding stair. It 
 was a lovely sight — the vine^^ards below us, and we 
 so many feet higher. We landed at 3fiinster, on the 
 Stein, a village pleasantly situated, and bids fair to 
 rival Kreutznach as a watering place. It possesses 
 salt springs. Several ruined castles are in sight and 
 many pleasant villages. The ruined castle of Ebern- 
 burg, once the stronghold of Franz Yon Sickengen, 
 and an asylum for outlaws and fugitives. In going 
 up the mountain we took refreshments at the For- 
 ester's cottage, at the foot of the mountain. In Mlin- 
 ster we saw an American actor, whose stage name 
 was Maurice Moritzan. We went from Miinster in 
 a conveyance something like an ambulance, which 
 held about sixteen people. The landlady at Kreutz- 
 nach had a Lynx stuffed, which her husband had 
 shot on the mountains around Kreutznach. We left 
 Kreutznach for Bingen, intending to take the boat 
 for Mayence. We took a last view of the Nieder- 
 wald Monument through a telescope at the wharf, and 
 of the Hotel Ilartman, which has a veranda, where 
 visitors look through telescopes at the view across the 
 Khine. We took breakfast iu' a room enclosed with 
 glass, giving a lovely view of the ruined castles and 
 the vallev below. 
 
122 BecoUeetions of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 We passed many beautiful villages and castles ^ 
 and after a delightful trip, arrived at Mayence (Ger- 
 man, Mainz) about dusk. Took rooms at Hotel 
 Hollande, which is very fine. Mayence is a stronly 
 fortified town ; has garrison of 8,000 soldiers, is on 
 the left bank of the Rhine, and is connected by a 
 bridge of boats with the little town of Castel. I will 
 never forget my promenade on the quay, which leads 
 along the bank of the Rhine. It was a lovel}' night 
 and the stars shone brightly, and were reflected in 
 the water, reminding me of the song, " Ten thousand 
 stars are in the sky, ten thosand in the sea.'" We 
 took a carriage next day, and drove to every place of 
 interest. The driver being well posted, we gained 
 a good deal of information. The cathedral was 
 built in 975-1011, but was burned down imme- 
 diately after its consecration. It was then restored, 
 and again destro3'ed by fire in 1108-1137. After 
 each occasion it was erected on a grander scale than 
 before. In 1767 it was injured by lightning, and, in 
 1793, again damaged by the siege., after which it was 
 repeatedly used as a magazine. In 1814 it was 
 again restored to its sacred uses. iN'ear the cathe- 
 dral is the statue of Guttenberg, executed in Paris^ 
 and erected in 1837. The palace, begun in 1627^ 
 and hastily finished in 1678, on a much less grand 
 scale than once intended, was the residence of the 
 Electors down to 1792, and during the French war, 
 was used as a hay magazine, and is now used for the 
 collection of Roman antiquities. The old streets are 
 
Germany. 12o 
 
 crooked and narrow, but handsome new buildings 
 and streets are springing up. A tunnel is now in 
 progress 1300 feet long. On an eminence rises the 
 handsome Gothic church, of St. Steven, erected in 
 1257-1318, on the highest site in the town, 98 feet 
 above the level of the Rhine. Among the objects of 
 interest it contains are the bones and sacerdotal vest-- 
 ments of Archbishop Willigis, several monuments in 
 stone and altar pieces. The cemetery, which was 
 once the burying-ground of the Roman legions, is 
 tastefully laid out. Mayence is, historically, one of 
 the most interesting of the Rhenish towns; its im- 
 portant strategic situation has, in all ages, attracted 
 attention. 
 
 We left Mayence, on the cars, for Monheim, a town 
 situated near the confluence of the ]N"ecker and 
 Rhine. It is considered the most regular built town 
 in Germany, being divided in squares and sections 
 like a chess-board. The streets are distinguished 
 according to the American system, by letters and 
 numerals. The staple commodities are tobacco, cof- 
 fee, grain and petroleum. The theatre is considered 
 one of the best in Germany. Schiller's monument 
 was erected in 1862, and there is a monument to a 
 distinguished actor, who began his career in Mon- 
 heim. There is also the Jesuit Church, the Arsenal, 
 the Synagogue and many other handsome buildings. 
 From Monheim we went to Worms, which suffered 
 terribly during the thirty years war. 
 
 In 1689 the town was treated w^ith savage cruelty 
 
124 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 %j Mela, and the young Duke de Creqni. After hav- 
 ing been pillaged, it was set on fire, and, with the 
 exception of the cathedral and sj^nagogue, soon be- 
 •came one smouldering heap of ruins. The town was 
 •one of the most important in Germany during the 
 middle ages; has 11,400 Protestants, 6,200 Koman 
 -Catholics and 1,200 Jews. 
 
 The monument to Luther^ the Great Eeformer of 
 •Germany, which was nine years in building, is 
 grand. The statue of Luther^ in bronze, stands on 
 ii platform : in his left hand he holds a Bible, on 
 which his right hand is placed emphatically, while 
 his face, on which faith is admirably portrayed, is 
 turned upwards. He is surrounded by a number of 
 bold spirits, who before, or along with him, had 
 fought the last struggle for the Reformation. The 
 people of Worms are engaged in the culture of the 
 rine, and they carry on a considerable trade in 
 leather. We bouorht here some excellent cherries 
 jand plums, the largest I ever saw. We look dinner 
 ;at a nice restaurant, kept by a man who had twin 
 boys named Conrad and Frantz. 
 
 We took the train for Heidelberg, which contains 
 the university of 1,000 students, who wear fancy 
 <iaps to distinguish their clubs, and are much given 
 to beer drinking and duelling. We hardly saw a 
 dozen that were not scarred by some sharp pointed 
 instrument on the face, and they looked as if they 
 were proud of it. So much has been written. about 
 the castle that I am almost afraid to attempt to de- 
 
Germcmy. 125 
 
 scribe it, bat will do the best I can. It is the most 
 magnificent ruins in Germany, and contains the 
 famons Heidelberg Tun, a monster cask, capable 
 of holding 49,000 gallons. By the tun stands a 
 grotesque figure of Pekoe, court jester of Elector" 
 Charles Phillip, who is said to have drunk eighteen 
 bottles of wine a day. There was a lady who spoke 
 different languages, wdio guided visitors over the 
 castle ; she said the wine in the great tun had been 
 drank out once by the French Army. There are 
 two other smaller tuns bearing strange inscriptions. 
 We went all through the castle. These ivy clad 
 ruins are linked with innumerable historical asso- 
 ciations. 
 
 The Frederick's bau contains collections of por- 
 traits of PalDtine princes, statesmen, generals and 
 professors, coins, relics, weapons, ornaments, views 
 of the castle at different periods. A cork model of 
 the castle; a relief plan of the environs of Heidel- 
 berg. A vaulted passage leads under the Frederick's 
 bau to the great balcony constructed in 1610, which 
 commands a beautiful view. Over the entrance to 
 the Rupert's bau is a rosary borne by two an- 
 gels. The masonry of the castle is so solid that 
 when the French blew it up, in 1689, one half be- 
 came detached and fell in an unbroken mass into 
 the Moat, where it still remains. The tower is 93 
 feet in diameter. The walls are 21 feet thick; be- 
 neath are long casemated passages. In 1622, when 
 the castle was taken by Tilly, it escaped almost un- 
 
126 Recollections of a Trip to Eurojye. 
 
 injured; it was afterwards restored by Carl Ludwig, 
 during whose reign the country also recovered from 
 the disasters of the thirt}' years' war. After the 
 death of Carl, Louis XFV". began the cruel war 
 which involved the castle of Heidelberg, and so 
 many others, in one common ruin. On the 24th of 
 ■October, 1688, the town and castle capitulated to 
 -Count Melac, the French general, who spent the 
 following winter there. On the approach of the 
 'German armies he determined to evacuate the place, 
 •and on the 2nd of March, 1689, caused the whole of 
 the fortilications to be blown up, the palace to be 
 burned down, and part of the town to be set on fire. 
 Forty years later the greater part of the castle was 
 rebuilt by Elector Karl Theodor, but in 1764 it was 
 struck by lightning and reduced to its jDresent ruin- 
 ous condition. In the kitchen of the castle is an 
 open fire place where they roasted whole oxen, and 
 in nearly every room are little closets with loop 
 holes, where the inmates viewed their enemies from 
 a distance. To the castle direct is three miles: one 
 can ride up on donkeys or go in carriages. I plucked 
 some ivy from the old ruins and brought it home 
 with me. We stopped at Grand Hotel Schreider, 
 near the station, and the next morning at breakfast 
 was asked by the head waiter if we belonged to the 
 party of Americans, who intended to explore the 
 castle that da}'. From Heidelberg we went to 
 Frankfort, on the Main, which is a large city, and 
 belongs to Prussia. Old watch towers in the vicinity 
 
Germany. 127 
 
 indicate its ancient extent. The city lies in a spa- 
 cious plain, bounded by mountains, on the right 
 bank of the navigable Main. On the left bank lies 
 Sachsenhausen, connected with Frankfort by four 
 stone bridges, and an iron suspension bridge. The 
 air of wealth and importance which pervades the 
 city affords an indication of the success and extent 
 of its commercial relations ; it has been much im- 
 proved since 18(32, when we were there. IS'ew and 
 imposing buildings are springing up everywhere. 
 The new opera house is magnificent ; was opened in 
 1880. We saw the hotel where Emperor VYilliam 
 stops when he visits Frankfort, and in front is a 
 balcony where he appeared to the people. The 
 monument to Guttenberg and G(Bthe, and the house 
 where Goethe was born is also to be seen. There is 
 a street called Juden Straps, or Jew street, which 
 many years ago was closed every evening, and on 
 Sundays and holidays throughout the whole day 
 with lock and key, and no Jew might venture into 
 any part of the town under a heavy penalty. In 
 spite of this tyranny many denizens of these squalid 
 purlieus flourished, and among them the enormously 
 wealthy family of Rothschild, who originally resided 
 on this street The house where they were born, 
 and where Madam Rothschild died some years ago, 
 was undergoing repairs. They have set it back 
 from the street, and are widening the street, but the 
 original house still stands. At the end of this street 
 stands the old synagogue. 
 
128 Recollections of a Trip to jEuroj^e. 
 
 There is a handsome bridge over the Main, con- 
 structed in 1342. In the middle of the bridge is a 
 statue of Charlemagne, erected in 1843 ; near it is an 
 old iron cross, with a rooster perched on top. Tra- 
 dition says that the rooster was the victim of a vow 
 made by the architect to sacrifice to the Devil the 
 first living thing which crossed the bridge. There is 
 a cemetery which contains several handsome monu- 
 ments, and a vault belonging to the Bethmann fam- 
 ily, and several handsome reliefs to the memory of 
 Herr V. Bethmann, who died at Florence of an ill- 
 ness caused by his exertions on the occasion of a fire 
 at Baden, near Vienna. The hurried presentation 
 of an oak wreath to the dying man in the larger re- 
 lief, is an allusion to a letter of thanks written to him 
 by the Emperor of Austria. The Jewish burying- 
 ground contains a marble sarcophagus to the memory 
 of Carl Rothschild, who died in 1855. 
 
 Frankfort is a magnificent city. There we saw 
 cars run by electricity. Across the river is Sachsen- 
 hausen, said to have been founded by Charlemagne, 
 and assigned by hiyn as a residence to the conquered 
 Saxons, from whom it derives its name. 
 
 We left Frankfort for Gillenhausen, stopping at 
 Hanau, the junction for the express trains from 
 Frankfort, and Stuttgart and Berlin. It is a pleasant 
 town, with 23,000 inhabitants, with silk and woolen 
 manufactories. The more modern part of the town 
 was founded in 1597, by Protestant exiles from the 
 Netherlands, to whom an asylum in Frankfort was 
 
Germany. 129 
 
 denied. Gillenhausen is a town situated on a red 
 soil, which contrasts picturesquely with the ^^reen 
 vineyards. On an island in the Kinzig are the ruins 
 of an Imperial Palace, erected by Frederick L, in 
 1144, part of which is still in tolerable preservation. 
 The arches of the windows rest on clustered columns, 
 with beautiful capitals. The Emperor Frederick 
 Babarossa held a great assembly here in 1110, to pro- 
 nounce the Imperial Ban against Duke Henry the 
 Lion. We stopped at a hotel called Deuitch HousCy 
 kept by a young married couple; we saw milch cows 
 drawing wood, and they looked as fat and' sleek as if 
 they were standing knee-deep in clover. On leaving 
 for the train I got in the midst of a flock of geese, 
 and I never heard such a noise ; they were pulling 
 my dress and chattering like so many magpies; I 
 was actually frightened. In gonig along, a man 
 would come out of a house and blow a horn, and the 
 hogs would run out of the gateways and file right 
 and left like soldiers. At different places we could 
 see shepherds, with their crooked sticks and dogs, 
 keeping watch over their flocks. 
 
 From Gillenhausen we went back again to Mill- 
 hausen and the Englisher Hoff", and it really seemed 
 like home, after traveling so long. A few days 
 after arriving, we received cards to a betrothal 
 ceremony of a young friend, who was very beautiful, 
 in fact the loveliest girl I saw in Germany. The 
 bride elect was handsomely dressed in white and 
 crowned with flowers. She received her guests in 
 
130 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 her father's parlor, which was decorated with flowers, 
 and the tables were loaded with costly presents. The 
 married sisters of the bride all came and kissed their 
 new brother-in-law, and welcomed him into the family. 
 Cards and telegrams were coming in all day, and re- 
 freshments were served every few minutes. We left, 
 with many good wishes for their future happiness, 
 and spent the remainder of the evening in a garden 
 where a band of music was playing a grand old air, 
 and where the dancers were drifting, and floating and 
 gliding, till the lights were dim and the guests all 
 gone. " We never heed how the moments fly ; swift 
 winged as swallows they pass us by; for hcirk^ the 
 music in discord dies; dawn is blossoming in the 
 skies." Some young friends proposed a trip to Saal- 
 field and Rudolstadt, and no sooner said than done. 
 A party w^as made up to start in a few days. 
 
 We left Millhausen with a gay company' on the 
 morning train, and arrived at Saalfeld at dinner 
 time, where friends met us at the depot. We stopped 
 at Hotel Hirsh. We passed Schwarza, near which 
 is the battle field, 10th of October, 1806, where 
 Launes and Ausrerean with thirtv thousand men de- 
 feated eleven thousand Prussians and Saxons under 
 Prince Louis Ferdinand of Prussia (the prince was 
 killed). We saw the marble stone erected to his 
 memory on the spot where he was shot, after which 
 he rode about a hundred yards before he fell from 
 his horse. His remains were buried in Berlin. We 
 spent several hours at Jena^ which has a fine 
 
Germany. 131 
 
 university. Many streets contain memorial tablets 
 to illustrious men who were once teachers or students 
 at the university. We walked over the battle field 
 oi Jena, where Napoleon, with his superior general- 
 ship and a large army, signally defeated the Prus- 
 sians under Prince Hohenloe. We made up a party 
 to go to the castle of Schwarzburg ; we left in car- 
 riages ; it was a lovely drive in one of the most pic- 
 turesque and beautiful wooded valleys in Thuringia. 
 The Chrysophas Inn, where we took dinner, com- 
 mands a fine view of the Thuringian Forest, On 
 one side we see the rounded and dark wooded sum- 
 mit and narrow valleys of the slate formation, and 
 on the other the light colored limestone peaks with 
 wide flat valleys between them. We saw deers 
 grazing in the valleys and a thunderstorm on the 
 mountains, which was suhlirne. 
 
 We went to Eberstein, a shooting lodge of the 
 Prince ; the house, on a mountain, is occupied by an 
 attendant who feeds the wild boars ; they are hunted 
 by the noblemen at stated times, and may be seen 
 roaming about most any time. The Castle is charm- 
 ingly situated on an eminence 256 feet high ; dates 
 its present form from 1726, when the other building 
 was burned down. It contains an interesting armory 
 and some fine antlers; we visited the Trippstein, 
 a beautiful open space, with a summer-house, com- 
 manding a striking view of the Schwarzburg. A 
 little way from the Trippstein is a shooting lodge, 
 containino; furniture made from the antlers of the 
 
132 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 deer killed in that vicinity; we registered our names 
 on the summer-house at the Trippstein, among many 
 hundred more, and had a lovely drive through the 
 forest, where the trees were so tall and large that one 
 of them would almost furnish a winter's supply of 
 lire-wood. The driver got out and gathered for us 
 the wild strawberries, which were quite plentifuL 
 Our party was a very gay one, singing Bonnie Doon 
 and other songs, which sounded very sweetly through 
 the forest. 
 
 Before we got out of the forest the weather turned 
 very cool, and when we arrived at the Weisser Hirsh, 
 or White Deer, we were glad to find a fire. As it 
 was warm when we started I never provided a wrap- 
 ping, and consequently sufiier^d from the change in 
 temperature, after getting back to Saalfeld, which 
 is an old town on the Saale, having numerous sewing 
 machine and other factories, also the castle of the 
 extinct Dukes of Saalfeld, and a chateau of the 16th 
 century. 
 
 After getting tired of Saalfeld, we left with a gay 
 party on the train for Rudolstadt, in Saxony, at the 
 foot of the Thuringia Mountains, on the river Sacde. 
 At the height of 200 feet rises the Castle Heidecks- 
 burg, the residence of the Prince, containing a hand- 
 some Rococo hall and several fine pictures ; we visited 
 the Grand Duke's bath-room; went in his private 
 rooms. His bath-room is superbly grand ; the walls 
 are painted to represent Kymphs bathing, and the 
 ceiling Aurora, rising from the sea in a cloud of stars; 
 
Gcrmamj. 133 
 
 mirrors in solid gold frames; and a sofa, the cover of 
 which cost 1,200 dollars; everything was magnificent. 
 We took dinner at the restaurant, and then visited 
 an old lady, whose husband and son are friends of 
 ours in Baltimore. She was delighted to see us, and 
 made many inquiries about her friends in America. 
 She gave us bouquets of rare flowers out of her gar- 
 den, and came with her niece down to the station to 
 see us off. We bade our Saalfeld friends a long adieu, 
 arid left for Millhausen, where we arrived about 
 twilio^ht. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 Millhausen is on the river Unstrnt, surrounded 
 with beautiful walks and drives, and the stream of 
 water that runs through the street makes a musical 
 sound in the dead hour of night. I used to lay awake 
 for hours listening to it, and would often sit at the 
 window of moon-light nights and watch the water as 
 it reflected the moon's rays in our chamber. 
 
 It was in Millhausen that Thomas Mlinzer, leader 
 of the German Anabaptists, was defeated, captured, 
 and executed where the principal of his enormi- 
 ties were committed. 
 
 While out walking one night, I observed a light 
 in the steeple of a Church, and was told that the 
 family lived in the steeple who took care of the 
 Church. I have always regretted that I did not go 
 up to see how the family was flxed. On a street, 
 lined with large trees many years old, is a spot marked 
 where Queen Louise rested when she was fleeing 
 from Napoleon. In a garden were some soldiers, who 
 were having a grand time drinking beer and singing. 
 Their time expired in the army in a few months; 
 they had their pictures taken, with a lager beer keg 
 and glasses of beer in their hands. (3ne of the pic- 
 tures was presented to us. At the hotel there was a 
 magnificent St. Bernadine dog, the largest I ever saw ; 
 
Germany. 135 
 
 he was kept muzzled all the time; he followed us 
 everywhere ; the landlady said he was so much petted 
 that she was afraid he would not be of much account, 
 and offered to sell him to us, but it w^as too much 
 trouble to bring him to America, and so we declined. 
 We learned this dog was very vicious ; he followed 
 us to the station, and I thought my last hour had 
 come w^hen he jumped on the cars put his fore-paws 
 on my lap to tell me good-bye. Shall I ever forget 
 that parting? The cars were full of flowers, and our 
 friends weeping. It looked more like a funeral than 
 a parting for a few years. How many changes will 
 take place before w^e see those dear faces again ? 
 Among the crowd was three betrothed lovers, who 
 bid us " God speed, over the dark w^aters of the beau- 
 tiful murmuring sea." 
 
 On our way to Berlin we stopped at Halle. We 
 took a carriage and drove around the city. Pear 
 and apple trees grow on the sidewalk loaded with 
 fruit, and no one touches them. Halle contains a 
 large and flourishing university. The town is a 
 commercial place of great importance. In the cen- 
 tre of the old town rises the clock tower 276 feet in 
 height. After riding around the city, and viewing 
 the places of interest, we took the train for Berlin. 
 On the i^oute we stopped at Leipsic, allowing our 
 baggage to go on to Berlin. We found a very nice 
 hotel near the station. Leipsic is one of the most 
 important towns in Germany, it being the centre of 
 the German book trade, and is the seat of the su- 
 
136 Recollections of a Trip to Earope. 
 
 preme law courts of the German Empire; also the 
 seat of one of the most ancient and important uni- 
 versities in Europe. Leipsic holds a great many 
 fairs. On these occasions the town is thronged 
 with forty or fifty thousand traders from all parts of 
 Europe, made up of Jews, Greeks, Bulgarians, Ar- 
 menians and Turks. The most important of the 
 staple commodities at the fairs are furs. They also 
 sell leather, cloth, glass and linen. There are about 
 three hundred book stores in Leipsic, and eighty 
 printing offices. The books are sent to all parts of 
 Europe and to more distant countries. The churches 
 present few attractions. One contains cannon balls 
 built in the wall by the window, and a stone pulpit 
 from which Luther preached; a room that G(Me 
 occupied when he was a student in 1767. There is 
 a small monument to commemorate the premature 
 blowing up of the bridge by the French on the 19th 
 of October, 1813, which proved so fatal to their rear 
 guard. The spot where Prince Poniatowsky was 
 drowned, in the Ellster, is indicated by an inscription 
 on a house close by. The battle of Leipsic, which 
 lasted four days, history tells us was the most san- 
 guinary one on record. It was conducted by the 
 greatest generals of modern times. The number of 
 cannons brought in the field is estimated at 2,000. 
 On the 19th of October, at 11 o'clock A. M., a Prus- 
 sian Landwehr Battalion stormed the Grimmer gate 
 and eftected an entrance in the town. At twelve 
 ^N'apoleon quitted the town. The bridge, the only 
 
Germany. 137 
 
 mode of crossing the river, was prematurely blown 
 up, and thousands of the French perished by 
 drowning, and among them the Polish General 
 Poniatowsky. At one o'clock the Allies entered 
 Leipsic. On a hill by the roadside rises an iron 
 obelisk, where tradition says the three monarchs, 
 of Russia, Prussia and Austria, received the tidings 
 of the victory of the 19th of October. After the 
 battle there were shells enough picked up in the 
 streets and suburbs to build the monument we saw. 
 Tradition says an old Gypsy told Poniatowsky that 
 an Ellster would be the death of him, but as an 
 Ellster is a species of crow, he laughed her predic- 
 tion to scorn: but her words came true, for he was 
 drowned in the river Ellster. 
 
 Leipsic is one of the busiest cities I saw while in 
 Europe. We visited the Zoological Garden and Ska- 
 ting Rink, where we heard some grand music, and 
 witnessed the antics of the numerous animals be- 
 longing to the former; we saw in this garden some 
 lovely white pea-fowl, with their young, and an An- 
 gora cat, a real beauty. Next day we drove over the 
 city and environs, taking refreshments in a handsome 
 restaurant, and meeting many distinguished people ; 
 drove through all the narrow, crooked streets, and to 
 a height planted with trees from which Napoleon 
 watched the battle of Leipsic. 
 
 From Leipsic we traveled to Berlin through a dri- 
 ving rain; the country is beautiful; everything bears 
 evidence of industry and thrift; marshy places, that 
 
138 Recollections of a Trip to Ear oik. 
 
 naturally would not yield any thing for man or beast, 
 are planted in willows for baskets, and on the rocky 
 places are sown flower seed; they are one living 
 bloom. Every once in a while the cars would stop 
 for the passengers to take refreshments; and the 
 nicest white bread, sausage and coftee, could be pro- 
 cured for a few cents. All along the roadside are the 
 loveliest little cottages, completely covered with run- 
 ning vines, while the station masters' little houses 
 were lovely; their yards were fllled with rare flowers. 
 
 Arrived at Berlin, drove to our hotel in a heavy 
 rain. Next morning was bright, clear and cool. We 
 went out sight seeing, never having seen all of Ber- 
 lin before. We passed several book-stores, where 
 General Grant's picture, hung with crape, was in the 
 windows, and the Stars and Stripes over the Minis- 
 ter's and Consul General's oflice were at half-mast ; 
 also over the telegraph and other oflices. 
 
 We went to several more Museums; saw Goethe 
 and Schiller's hair; Bread of the Famine; and 
 Blucher's Plume, that was picked up in his flight 
 from Lubeck; and the Billiard Cue that was taken 
 to France by Napoleon, and brought back by Blucher; 
 and Queen Louise's last piece of work; Block and 
 Axe with which Hoedel was executed for firing on 
 Emperor William; Instruments of Torture of olden 
 times; Bell rung for executions; and many things 
 too numerous to mention. 
 
 We went to the Aquarium, which is very interest- 
 ing. Saw some old friends, crabs and oysters. The 
 
Germany. 139 
 
 bottom of the different tanks are covered with living 
 flowers, the most beautiful I ever saw, brought up by 
 divers from the bottom of the Mediterranean sea, At- 
 lantic ocean, and other large bodies of water. 
 
 In that portion set apart for birds, we saw four 
 white Ravens and one black one all in one nest. 
 
 We went one Sunday on a steamer down the river 
 Spree, to a place called Treptow, a fashionable resort 
 of the Berliners; we met many pleasure boats, some 
 of them with the American flag flying; we spent a 
 delightful evening, and returned on horse cars. On 
 our way a balloon passed over the city, with four men 
 in it. 
 
 After we arrived at Berlin, we took supper in a fine 
 restaurant, where every room was so crowded we had 
 much difiiculty in finding a seat. On the way to the 
 restaurant we stopped at the butcher who supplies 
 the Emperor's household and bought some tomatoes; 
 our friends were surprised that we should eat toma- 
 toes. 
 
 Next day we went to see the monument built of 
 captured Danish, Austrian and French cannon (60 in 
 all). It is called the Monument of Victory ; it rep- 
 resents the battles and the generals engaged, and the 
 return of the troops, and the people kissing the Em- 
 peror's hand. The Avenue of Victory is one of the 
 most fashionable promenades of the Berliners, espe- 
 cially in Spring. 
 
 It is said the Crown Prince, Frederick William, 
 was walkins: on a fashionable street in Berlin one 
 
140 BecoUections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 day, accompanied by his wife and three daughters, 
 when they met a man with a bundle of faggots. 
 The Crown Prince stopped him and told him it was 
 •against the law to obstruct the sidewalk. The man 
 told him if there was room for himself, wife and 
 three daughters to walk abreast, there was certainly 
 room for him and his bundle. The Crown Prince 
 said pass on my friend. We often met the court 
 ladies riding out; some of them are very beautiful. 
 We went to a church to see a young couple married 
 at four o'clock in the afternoon. The front door 
 was locked, but many strangers, among them our- 
 selves, went round to the back door, determined to 
 see a fashionable marriao:e. The church was dark- 
 ened and wax candles lit on the altar. The minister 
 was the celebrated Jew hater, St()cker, the one who 
 wanted all the Jews driven out of Berlin and all over 
 Germany. When Emperor William goes to church 
 he won't allow Stocker to preach. The bride and 
 groom were seated, and the groomsmen, dressed in 
 black suit, white vests and gloves, were seated 
 around, each with a piece of music in his hands. 
 The organ played and they all joined in singing. 
 The bride was beautifully dressed in white satin, 
 with a veil down to the hem of her dress, and a 
 wreath of orange blossoms and lilies of the valley. 
 •She carried a large bouquet of white roses and a 
 white velvet prayer book; she wore ^vhite satin 
 slippers; no jewelry; nothing but flowers. The 
 church w^as crowded with strangers. As the bride 
 
Germany. 141 
 
 passed to her carriage everybody bowed. I waved 
 my handkerehief and they both bowed and smiled. 
 We saw several wedding couples after that in car-; 
 riages going to church to be married, and I always 
 waved my handkerchief (I guess they thought I was 
 crazy). One day, while in Berlin, we were walking 
 by the castle where the spectral lady appears to de- 
 note the death of a member of the house Hoenzol- 
 lern. The window^ where she appears was pointed 
 out to us, and I was so much in hopes she would 
 appear while we were there, but I was disappointed. 
 She appeared in Berlin before the death of Prince 
 Waldemar, son of the Crown Prince, and frightened 
 the guard so he threw his musket away and ran off. 
 He was court-martialed, but subsequently forgiven 
 by the Emperor. The spectral or white lady is said 
 to be the widowed Countess of (3rlamunde. She is 
 said to have fallen in love with a young and handsome 
 knight, and her affection was not unappreciated by 
 the gallant cavalier, but, when the countess ex- 
 pressed the wish for marriage, he replied that he 
 could not enter the holy bonds of matrimony so 
 long as four eyes were in existence. Having two 
 children by her former husband, the countess nat- 
 urally imagined that they were the obstacle to her 
 union with the knight ; so she killed them by run- 
 ning one of her golden hair pins through their skulls. 
 When the knight learned what the countess had 
 done, he refused to marry her. The inhuman 
 mother eventually died, but her spirit could never 
 
142 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 rest, and though she was duly buried she used to 
 appear frequently afterwards, foreboding misfortune 
 and death. She is said to have appeared to l!^apo- 
 leon while at Beyreuth; the first time the 14th of 
 May, 1812, while he was on his way to Russia. 
 From 1806-1809 she appeared frequently to the offi- 
 cers of the French Army. 
 
 Berlin has many elegant monuments, one to the 
 eminent oculist, Yon Grafe, who died in 1870; he 
 made many wonderful cures. The Invalide Park 
 contains an Obelisk, commemorating the loss of the 
 Corvette Amazone in 1861 ; and the Warriors' Mon- 
 ument, a column of iron, erected in 1854, to the 
 memory of soldiers who fell in 1848-'49 ; we also saw 
 the Panorama of the Battle of Sedan and Siege of 
 Paris, which was so grand no pen can describe. The 
 grandest statue said to be in Europe, is of Frederick 
 the Great, in bronze, by Ranch, erected in 1851. 
 The great King is represented on horseback, with his 
 coronation robes and walking stick. The corner- 
 stone was laid 31st of May, 1840, the hundredth an- 
 niversary of the accession of Frederick to the throne 
 of Prussia, and the monument was completed and 
 inaugurated in 1851. UnterDer Linden is a beauti- 
 ful street, which takes its name from the avenue of 
 lime trees, interspersed with chestnuts, with which it 
 is planted; it resembles the Boulevards of P^m; it 
 is flanked with handsome palaces, spacious hotels 
 jand attractive stores. 
 
 In passing over the bridge across the river Spree, 
 
Germany. 143 
 
 near the King's Palace, we met an old friend, a big 
 black roach, on a tramp ; I stopped and saluted him, 
 and passed on ; that was the only one I saw in Ger- 
 many. I met several colored people on the street. 
 The Crown Prince has a black man in his Palace. 
 We called with our friend on the Consul-General, 
 Mr. Reine. He said he was always glad to see any of 
 his American friends; he was just fixing his house; 
 his wife spoke more English than German; he said 
 he would call on us, but as we expected to leave Ber- 
 lin in a short time we never met him again. Our 
 friend was very much pleased with Mr. Reine, and 
 has met him several times in different gardens with 
 his daughter and black servant. 
 
 We also went to see the Japanese. Their work is 
 very interesting. The same day we were in a gar- 
 den where there were seven bands of music; while 
 one was playing we could hear the others at a dis- 
 tance. In this garden the elite of Berlin were well 
 represented, and English Lords and German Barons 
 were as numerous as blackberries on the Stafford 
 hills. We went a few miles from Berlin to see the 
 fire-works, representing Alexandria, Egypt, bom- 
 harded by the English. I can never describe this 
 wonderful work and do it full justice, but will try. 
 The City of Alexandria is seen by moonlight,, and 
 the river is filled with war ships. I noticed one 
 American ship, with the Stars and Stripes flying, 
 which did not take any part in the fight. When the 
 sio:nal was o^iveu the bombardment commenced ; the 
 
144 Recollections of a Trvp to Eitroi?e. 
 
 very river was on lire ; the explosion of the shells was 
 terriffic; a sulphurous smoke overhung the city like 
 a funeral pall. When the wind lifted it, the flag of 
 the Geneva Cross was seen floating over the hospi- 
 tals, and the citj had surrendered. The band played . 
 " Watch on the Rhine," " God Save the Queen," 
 and "Home, Sweet Home," and the entertainment 
 was over. The street cars and every available vehi- 
 cle were in demand to convey the vast crowd to the 
 city and their homes. In this garden was a diver, 
 who Avent down in a large tank of water to show 
 people how he brought up bodies from a ship in the 
 bottom of the ocean. He said he had brought up 
 many from the wreck of the steamer Cambria; he 
 was clad in a complete diver's suit; he carried a 
 hatchet in his hand to cut awav the timber. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 We intended going to Potsdam to see the parade 
 in honor of the Emperor of Austria's birthday, hut 
 it was raining so hard we did not go. If we had 
 have gone we would have seen Emperor WiUiam. 
 We went to another garden several miles from Ber- 
 lin, where there were all kinds of amusements, even 
 to electric cars, and an open air theatre, where four 
 Americans played and danced. We went out on 
 the railway and returned in street cars. There was 
 a splendid ball-room resembling a grotto, lit by 
 elegant chandeleirs. In one of the open squares, 
 near one of the palaces, is an old woman selling 
 fruit, and she was literally covered with birds of all 
 kinds. It was very amusing to watch her. The 
 birds did not seem to be afraid of her, but she was 
 like a tree, completely covered with them. She 
 said she saw no peace and was glad when night 
 came. We visited many other places of amusement 
 too numerous to mention, and stayed three weeks 
 longer, going to some public place every day. We 
 saw the place where Hoedel was executed, and the 
 window from which the emperor was shot, and the 
 Imperial Hotel, where Pauline Lucca, the favorite 
 court singer, stops, and where the emperor called in 
 his carriage and gave her a magnificent bracelet. 
 
146 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 Emperor William, it is said, has a very extensive 
 wardrobe. He is the owner of about as many mili- 
 tary uniforms as there are Imperial regiments. He 
 has special uniforms that belong to hi^h military 
 offices in the armies of Baden, Bavaria, Saxony and 
 Wurtemburg, beside others that are peculiar to the 
 Austrian Infantry and the Hussars, and four that 
 belong to the Russian Army. He is thus enabled 
 at a moment's notice to don any costume that di- 
 plomatic visits, military reviews, official receptions, 
 court balls, or any other occasions of public conse- 
 quence, may render desirable. In Berlin the Crown 
 Prince is principal of the Art Institute, and on one 
 occasion he came accompanied by his daughters, and 
 forbid them speaking to the students or disturbing 
 them in any way. We have a young relative who 
 was a student at the institute. The Crown Prince 
 touched him on the shoulder and said: "my friend,' 
 I would not mind being an artist myself if I could sit 
 all day between two such beautiful ladies as you do." 
 The Crown Prince was in Strasburg once at a 
 review, and noticed a private soldier looking at him 
 very attentively. He said : " My friend, I think I 
 have seen you before." The private replied: "I 
 know you have, for I was once in the King's guard." 
 The Crown Prince asked : "Is that so ? then let us 
 shake hands." In a room in the Crown Princes' 
 palace, near Potsdam, is a fairy tea service presented 
 by a German manufacturer. The tray was beaten 
 out of an old Prussian coin, the size of a copper 
 
Germany. 147 
 
 cent. The tea-pot was made of a coin half the 
 size of a cent, and its top of one still smaller. All 
 the pieces are put together so nicely — you can easily 
 recognize the name on each piece. We went to the 
 insane asylum; went all through it. We were the 
 guests of one of the teachers who spoke English, as 
 did also his wife. As soon as we arrived, the ladies 
 of our party were invited in a lovely room over- 
 looking the yard of the institution, where we saw 
 many of the patients engaged in different employ- 
 ment; the first thing we had to take cake and coffee, 
 of course. The gentleman had wines and cigars ; 
 then we went over the institution ; every thing was 
 as clean as a pin. It is a large building; has about 
 1,200 inmates, and they were going to build another 
 one. They have every kind of amusement for the 
 patients, theatres, ball-rooms, gymnastics, and every- 
 thing to make them happy. We spent a pleasant 
 day, and the teacher, his wife and daughter came 
 part of the way home with us. We all stopped at 
 a little village where there was a festival going on. 
 Garlands were suspended across the street, and 
 music and dancing, singing and all kinds of games. 
 We had to have more coftee and cake. We stayed 
 several hours and went back to Berlin about dark, 
 highly pleased Avith our visit. We left Berlin for 
 Plan over ; it was raining, and a company of soldiers 
 Avere passing headed by a brass band playing a lively 
 march. 
 
 We went from Berlin to Hanover, staving a few 
 
148 Becollections of a Trip to Eurojje. 
 
 days with our friends, visiting the Palm Garden, 
 which is covered with glass, and contains beautiful 
 fountains and palm trees, and also the new Victoria 
 restaurant, Avhich is very line. On several occasions 
 we went to see the soldiers drill. 
 
 We left Hanover for Bremen, where we stayed a 
 week at Germania Hotel, a nice, quiet house; the 
 Proprietor and his wife both speak English. We took 
 long walks and drives every day ; and made our pre- 
 parations to leave Germany on the 2d of September, 
 the anniversary of the battle of Sedan. 
 
 We arrived at Bremerhaven in time to take the 
 steamer Nuremberg, Capt. Jaeger, for Baltimore' 
 we met a gentleman and his son who went over with 
 us in May, and we were delighted that they would 
 be our companions on the return voyage ; we had 96 
 cabin and 500 steerage passengers, and a rich cargo. 
 The first few days were windy and stormy, but after 
 that we had nice Aveather. The passengers were all 
 very agreeable; we were just like one large family; 
 every one had something pleasant to say. We had 
 four music teachers, a bride and groom, several gay 
 students, who had graduated in Germany ; a private 
 tutor, coming to America, with a family, to teach the 
 languages and music; a gay party of young people 
 from Maryland and Virginia, who were good musi- 
 cians; and we had plenty of music and theatricals in 
 the saloon, and dancing on deck. It was the cap- 
 tain's ninety-sixth trip, and when he made a hundred 
 he would get a medal from the Emperor. We saw 
 
Germany. 149 
 
 several ships and small schooners, and one passed 
 quite close to us which had a large dog chained on 
 deck, and the young people yelled so loud that the 
 dog commenced barking, and kept it up until we got 
 out of sight. One night we came near running over 
 a large schooner. We saw several icebergs, which 
 were some distance from us, and looked like obelisks 
 outlined against the sky. When we passed Dover, 
 our steamer sent up sky-rockets. A great many of 
 the passengers were sea-sick at first, but in a few 
 days were all well, with the exception of a few, who 
 continued sick the whole voyage. I was not sea-sick 
 at all, and occupied a seat in the saloon, most of the 
 time reading and writing. In a state-room near, a 
 gentleman was playing "Long, Weary Day," on the 
 Zither. We were then in mid ocean. 
 
 The captain said he had made 96 trips going and 
 coming, which makes 192 times, and he says he never 
 had such a gay company of young people. They 
 w^ere up to every kind of mischief. One lady said 
 she was on the same steamer once, and there was a 
 violent storm, and they were all thrown out of their 
 berths, and the dishes were all thrown from the 
 pantry shelves, and next morning there were no 
 dishes to eat breakfast out of Everybody was awful 
 sea-sick, and expected to be lost, every moment ; but 
 the captain was a good navigator, and the ship strong, 
 and they weathered the storm. 
 
 Another lady told me she crossed on the same 
 steamer, and in a storm. The were some gay young 
 
150 Recollections of a Trip to Europe. 
 
 men from the South going to Heidelburg to finish 
 their education ; thej were very rich, and spent a 
 great deal of money in champagne and cigars, and 
 had a lively time in their state-rooms singing songs. 
 We made many pleasent acquaintances, and some 
 dear friends ; received many invitations to visit 
 them. We arrived in Baltimore on the 17th. Some 
 of our fellow passengers went with us to the same 
 hotel. 
 
 Our pleasent visit is over, and we are at home, 
 sweet home, but I will never forget the happy hours 
 spent in wandering through the beautiful palaces 
 and museums of the Old World. 
 
 O'er the dark waters of the deep blue sea 
 Our thoughts bound clear and our hearts are free; 
 Far as the breeze can bear the oceans foam, 
 Survey our Empire, and behold our home. 
 


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