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HANDBOOK 
 OF 
 
 Shoe Factory 
 Engineering 
 
 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY 
 COMPANY 
 
 BOSTON -- MASS. 
 
 Prepared and Issued by the 
 Department of Agencies 
 

 Copyright, 1916, by 
 
 United Shoe Machinery Company 
 
 Boston, Mass. 
 
 @0U«H4371 
 
 ^Vttf [ 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 The material and data contained within this little book 
 are the result of many years' investigation and experience in 
 the designing and equipping of modern factories — particularly 
 as applied to the manufacture of shoes. 
 
 The remarkable economies and increased efficiency to be 
 obtained by conducting manufacturing operations in buildings 
 especially designed to meet the particular requirements of the 
 industry with full consideration paid to the modern develop- 
 ment of those important elements which have to do with 
 light, heat, power, equipment and interior organization, have 
 but recently attracted the attention of shoe manufacturers. 
 
 The remarkably rapid growth of the shoe manufacturing 
 industry during the past fifteen years has afforded shoe 
 manufacturers but slight opportunity for investigation in 
 this important field, the increased demand for more space 
 being ordinarily met by building additions to old plants. In 
 a constantly increasing number of instances, however, this 
 expedient has reached its logical limit and brought those 
 concerned in the factory management face to face with the 
 building problem. 
 
 Anticipating this tendency in the evolution of the industry, 
 the experts of the Department of Agencies have from its 
 inception been closely in touch with every phase of its develop- 
 ment and plans for many of the factories of most modern 
 construction have been prepared by them. 
 
 The services and experience of these experts are at the 
 disposal of the Company's patrons and the constantly increas- 
 ing demand for data in this connection has brought this little 
 book into being. 
 
 With a full realization of the proportions of the problem and 
 the impossibility of treating in more than a general way at this 
 time so vast a subject, the important information it contains 
 is submitted as a basis for more detailed and thoughtful 
 consideration. 
 
AN IDEAL SHOE FACTORY 
 
 THE BUILDING 
 
 If no disturbing conditions or requirements intervened and 
 the manufacturer was able to accept the following specifica- 
 tions (detailed explanation of which appears on another page), 
 he would have a factory, ideal in construction and arrangement. 
 It is seldom indeed that this ideal condition can be found, 
 but the details should be modified only as necessity requires. 
 The ideal factory would conform to this schedule: — 
 
 Shape: Rectangular 
 
 Width: 40 to 50 feet inside 
 
 Length: As per capacity, up to 1,000 feet 
 
 Number of Floors: 
 
 3 Floors and Basement 
 Top Floor — Cutting and Upper Fitting 
 Second Floor — Lasting and Making 
 Street Floor — Finishing, Dressing and Packing 
 Basement — Stock Fitting, Sole Leather Cutting and 
 Storage 
 Altitude of Floors: 
 
 9 feet, 6 inches (minimum.) 
 11 feet, 6 inches (ideal) 
 Floor Strain: 
 
 150 pounds per square foot 
 Tower: One to every 300 or 400 feet. Located in the centre 
 of side, 40 feet by 40 feet 
 Its function; 
 
 Elevators, stairways, toilets, coatrooms, etc. 
 Windows : 
 
 As many as possible 
 Sawtooth roof 
 Construction material : 
 
 Relative as to locality 
 
Cost; approximate. 
 
 Concrete — cost $1.25 square foot 
 
 Brick — cost $1.00 (150 pounds) square foot 
 
 Wood —cost $ .75 to $ .90 (150 pounds) square foot 
 Approximate number of feet necessary per pair of shoes: 
 
 Welts — 15 square feet 
 
 Turns — 15 square feet 
 
 McKay — 10 to 12 square feet 
 
 Standard Screw and Pegs — 10 to 12 square feet 
 
 Stitchdowns — 8 to 10 square feet 
 Offices: 
 Location : 
 
 Separate Building 
 
 End of building, first floor 
 Provision for Employees' Welfare: 
 
 Rest room, restaurant, recreation room, hospital, etc. 
 Storage for Material: 
 
 Separate building 
 
 Small supply of finished and raw stock in factory 
 Humidifying Room: 
 
 Important for the proper conditioning of sole leather, 
 waxes, threads, counters, etc. 
 
 Size of room as per conditions. 
 
 In the consideration of a shoe manufacturing plant, the 
 first problem which presents itself is: "What shape shall it be?" 
 
 „, . "What is the best?" Years of experience 
 
 Shape and , . , , , , .. , 
 
 „. have proven that a rectangular shaped build- 
 
 ing, from forty to fifty feet wide with the 
 length up to the limit of one thousand feet, works out to the 
 best advantage. Fifty feet in width is practically the limit for 
 a factory where only one row of posts is desired for support in 
 the middle, and fifty feet is preferable to forty, due to the fact 
 that it allows ample room for the storage of shoes awaiting 
 
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their operation and gives plenty of aisle space for the incoming 
 
 and outgoing racks. As it is well known that the central 
 
 portion of a shoe factory is not light enough for machine 
 
 operation, the rectangular shaped building should need no 
 
 further defence. 
 
 Three stories and a basement is the best height for the 
 
 building. If we add another floor, or floors, the strain 
 
 TT .^, ^ becomes so great that the cost of construction 
 
 Height . • 11 mi- ' , 
 
 increases materially. The best arrangement 
 
 for the operation in three stories, due to the fact that the 
 
 natural sequence of operations follow logically and there is, 
 
 therefore, less handling of the shoes, is as follows: 
 
 Top Floor Street Floor 
 
 Cutting Finishing 
 
 Upper Fitting Dressing 
 
 Packing 
 
 Second Floor Offices 
 
 Lasting 
 
 Making Basement 
 
 Stock Fitting 
 
 Sole Leather Cutting 
 
 Storage 
 
 The altitude of the floors should not be less than nine feet, 
 
 six inches; and eleven feet, six inches is ideal. The latter 
 
 .- _ allows for better ventilation and light, and 
 
 Altitude . i , , i i 11 
 
 gives ample head room under the pulleys, 
 
 belts, etc., for the operatives. 
 
 The tower in connection with any manufacturing plant, 
 especially the shoe plant, is modern and a feature that, if 
 „ properly located and designed, is well nigh 
 
 indispensable. It should be on the outside, 
 in the centre of the building if under five hundred feet in 
 length, or there should be a tower for every three or four 
 hundred feet. Forty feet square is the ideal size. By the 
 use of this, or these towers for the location of elevators, stair- 
 ways, toilets, coat rooms, etc., the main factory is left entirely 
 for the purpose for which it was intended; viz — the manu- 
 facture of shoes. 
 
When designing a factory as much window space as possible 
 
 should be provided. There is no one who will argue that you 
 
 __ 7 . , can have too much light. The roof should be 
 
 Windows . , , b , . . , 
 
 of the sawtooth construction, admitting the 
 
 north light in order that the central portion of the room will 
 be as well lighted as the sides. This allows for the best pos- 
 sible arrangement of the benches in the Upper Fitting Room. 
 
 There are three choices as to what is best to use for material 
 in the construction of a shoe factory. Concrete is fire-proof, 
 requires less upkeep and admits of the lowest 
 rate of insurance, but costs more to construct 
 in the beginning. It is possible with concrete 
 to allow room for more window space than with any other 
 material. 
 
 Brick, with the beam and girder construction is the second 
 choice, at a little less figure than the concrete. 
 
 Wood is the last choice. It costs two-thirds as much as 
 
 Building 
 Material 
 
 LUPTON STEEL SASH FOR SIDE WALLS 
 11 
 
■■IB 1 * 
 
 t- 
 
 POND CONTINUOUS SASH IN SAWTOOTH ROOF 
 CONSTRUCTION 
 
 the concrete, but would require a high rate of insurance and 
 constant repairs. 
 
 The location of the factory would influence materially the 
 decision as to which of the three above types would be most 
 desirable. 
 
 The prices of material will vary greatly in different sections 
 of the country. 
 
 The offices, if possible, in a large manufacturing plant should 
 be in a separate building, in order that they may be away from 
 the noise and leave additional room for the 
 manufacturing. If, however, the resources of 
 the manufacturer are limited, the best place for the offices is 
 on the street floor at one end of the building. 
 
 Most employers of labor in these modern times plan for 
 their employees' welfare by the installation of rest rooms, 
 
 12 
 
 Offices 
 
Employees 
 Welfare 
 
 hospitals, restaurants and recreation rooms, 
 and in designing a new factory it would seem 
 a mistake to leave this feature without con- 
 sideration. It is hard to say what is the best location. If it 
 were a city factory, a portion of the top floor would probably 
 be the best, due to the fact that there would be more light and 
 
 HOSPITAL AT PLANT OF U. S. M. C. BEVERLY, MASS. 
 
 air, but if in the country perhaps the conveniences of a properly 
 
 arranged basement might be more desirable. 
 
 The manufacturer of shoes should not use his manufacturing 
 
 plant, for which he charges himself a fair rental rate, for the 
 use of storage of material, and never should 
 he carry in his plant more than a week's 
 supply of raw material or finished goods. 
 
 If it is necessary to stock material in large quantities, either 
 
 finished or raw, a separate building or a rented loft should 
 
 be arranged for at a much less cost than which he charges 
 
 against himself for manufacturing. 
 
 13 
 
 Storage of 
 Material 
 
ONE OF THE LOCKER AND WASH ROOMS AT 
 U. S. M. CO. FACTORY 
 
 Provision for a suitable sized-room for the proper condition- 
 ing of leather should be arranged for in which a moistening 
 or humidifying machine can be placed. This 
 room should be located near the assembling 
 department, and the soles, counters, etc., 
 sent from there to the various departments as per the require- 
 ments. 
 
 Humidifying 
 
 Room 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE DETAILS OF TEMPERING ROOM 
 
 It is beneficial in the conditioning of leather: — Welting, 
 leather for soles, counter blanks, etc. — when the temper is 
 once reached, to retain its mulled condition, without having 
 
 14 
 
HUMIDIFYING ROOM IN FACTORY OF LUND & SWEET, 
 AUBURN, ME. 
 
 recourse to wetting again, and to this end the tempering or 
 humidifying room has been developed. 
 
 Any room of proper dimensions, available, will do, but 
 better, a room may be built in that portion of the factory next 
 to the assembling department, wood sheathing from the 
 floor to the ceiling, and of such size to give the cubical contents 
 necessary for the storage of a sufficient number of dozens of 
 pairs of outer soles and other parts of the shoe which require 
 tempering. This room should have proper window lights to 
 permit the free circulation of air, and the entering of a proper 
 amount of sunlight, and by means of the Humidor therein 
 installed, the air may be kept at a certain percentage of 
 humidity without depriving the leather of sunlight and fresh 
 air, necessary to prevent "blooming" or "spuming" which 
 commonly occurs when leather is stored in a dark room that 
 
is more or less air-tight, causing of course, the quality to 
 deteriorate. 
 
 The tempering room is arranged in a proper manner for the 
 storing of leather by means of shelves of pre-determined width 
 and height, and made of dowel-pin stock to permit of the 
 proper circulation of air. This method of tempering assures 
 splendid results, and the leather will be maintained at a proper 
 working condition with a minimum effort, and a greater 
 increase of value from the shoe-making standpoint. 
 
 A room 20 by 14 by 12 feet, contains 3,360 cubic feet; — the 
 Humidifier being suspended from the ceiling, dropping 30 
 inches below the same, is operated by a small fan motor 
 Electricity may be taken from any convenient electric light 
 socket, and controlled by three-speed switch, so that the 
 conditions may be readily controlled and varied as desired. 
 The _^-inch water supply is taken from any convenient 
 source and supplies the water jet, which vaporizes the water 
 absorbed by the air passing thru the Humidifier, the maxi- 
 mum capacity of which is 26,000 cubic feet of air per hour, 
 with a consumption of 35 gallons of water per hour (more 
 or less); — at a pressure of 50 pounds — 1 gallon per hour 
 is absorbed by the air. The volume of water may be in- 
 creased by maintaining a higher water pressure. 
 
 The water control is independent of the air circulation, and 
 can be shut off entirely independent of the air current, which 
 is desirable to maintain at all times, as it produces a uniform 
 effect in the room, all the air of the room passing thru the 
 Humidor, and being washed and properly humidified, thereby 
 assuring a uniform circulation of the air and condition of the 
 stock. A normal temperature of the room is only required, 
 the air in the room being circulated seven times per hour. 
 
 16 
 
AN IDEAL SHOE FACTORY 
 
 POWER AND LIGHT 
 
 If the manufacturer is not confronted by any unusual 
 conditions and is free to choose, the facts presented in the 
 following schedule regarding these two very important 
 elements should receive most careful consideration : — 
 
 Requirements, (approximated): 
 20-25 pair Welts per H. P. 
 20-25 pair Turns per H. P. 
 30-40 pair McKays per H. P. 
 30-40 pair Nailed and pegged per H. P. 
 40-50 pair Stitchdowns per H. P. 
 Electric Motors: 
 
 550 volts, 3 phase, 60 cycle 
 
 Alternating Current 
 
 1800 R. P. M., all departments except Upper Fitting 
 
 Room 
 1200 R. P. M. Upper Fitting Room 
 720 R. P. M. Exhaust Fan 
 Oil Switches for 5 H. P. Motors or less 
 Turbine, (Curtis Type): 
 
 For 100 H. P. requirements and over 
 For small requirements 
 
 Reciprocating steam engine and dynamo 
 Gas engine and dynamo 
 Purchased current 
 Cost of making power, light and heat 
 
 \ x /2 to 2 cents per K. W. 
 Cost of buying power 
 
 Dependent on amount purchased from 1>^-3K cents 
 
 per K. W. 
 For lighting alone in most districts the rate is three 
 times greater than for power. 
 
Lighting: 
 
 General Illumination 
 
 Suitably powered lamps and shades at altitude of not 
 less than 9 feet 
 Specific Illumination 
 As conditions warrant 
 Millwrighting: 
 
 Standard size of shafting 1-ff inches in diameter and 60 
 
 foot lengths for all departments except upper fitting 
 
 room; 1-^ inches diameter for Upper Fitting Room. 
 
 Sells Roller Bearings for shafting, reducing frictional load 
 
 to a minimum. 
 Hangers, 10 to 12 inch drop 
 Speed of shafting: 
 
 300 R. P. M. except in Upper Fitting Room 
 350 R. P. M. Upper Fitting Room 
 Steel Pressed Pulleys are most satisfactory 
 Transmission for Upper Fitting Room : 
 Link Silent Chain Belt 
 Spartan "V" Belts 
 Dust Collecting System: 
 
 Slow speed, high pressure is most economical 
 Location: outside of building if possible 
 20-22 Gauge Piping 
 Cost of Installation: 
 
 $30-$40 for every dust making machine, exclusive of 
 motors 
 
 The kind of a Power Equipment that should be put in a shoe 
 factory is a most important factor to consider. The generally 
 accepted method of installation is with Short Drives and Elec- 
 tric Motors. The old-fashioned method of Long Line Drives 
 belted from floor to floor and then to the engine is no longer 
 modern or efficient. 
 
 On using the old Long Drives starting with large shafting 
 at the engine end and gradually working down to the small 
 
 18 
 
3 H. P. MOTOR REPLACING "MULE STAND DRIVE' 
 SPRINGFIELD SHOE WORKS 
 
 5 H. P. MOTOR DRIVING 12 HAND METHOD LASTING 
 MACHINES AND 4 REX PULLING-OVER MACHINES 
 
„.,,, if j pipe-stem shafting, an enormous amount 
 Old Method , . 7 ' . , . . , , , , 
 
 01 power is wasted in irictional load for 
 
 turning the shafting alone, and waste of power means waste 
 of coal and coal is expensive. 
 
 By the use of electric motors and short drives, we have 
 the most flexible kind of an outfit, and if increases of output 
 M M th rl are contem pl ate d tms flexibility works out 
 very simply by the addition of new or larger 
 motors, while with the steam-driven plant an increase in the 
 output requires a large investment for the new requirements. 
 „ f The Alternating Current type of motor 
 
 _, of 550 volts, 3-phase and 60-cycle, has proven 
 
 Motors . '. / J ' K 
 
 the most satisfactory. 
 
 The 550-volt circuit requires less cost to install on account 
 
 of the small size wire which can be used, and this high voltage 
 
 „. , should not be more dangerous than a lower 
 
 _, , _. one, provided that the necessary safetv 
 
 Voltage ' , .... , 
 
 appliances, such as oil switches and up-to- 
 date methods of wiring, are used; and as this high voltage 
 current will demand such devices, this voltage really proves 
 less dangerous than a lower one. 
 
 Alternating Current Motors are most satisfactory, due to 
 the intermittent factor of Shoe Machinery, and motors of 
 
 . . . _. this type can be depended upon to take care 
 
 Alternating e . , , , ^ 
 
 „ of instantaneous overloads where Direct 
 
 Current Motors would be soon damaged 
 
 by such abuse. 
 
 A most important question next comes up as to whether 
 
 it is feasible to buy or manufacture electric current. Gener- 
 
 „ f ally speaking, unless one has a requirement 
 
 „ " „, of 100 horse power, it is best to buy, and for 
 
 Power Plant . . „ . 
 
 a larger requirement to install a power plant 
 
 of his own, unless the Central Power Station rate is very 
 low indeed. This is a case for figuring. It should, however, 
 be borne in mind that a factory must be heated, and to heat a 
 building and furnish certain machines with steam, a boiler 
 must be operated and at high pressure, for the Goodyear 
 Wax Thread Machines require a pressure of from thirty-five 
 
 20 
 
100 K. W. ALTERNATING CURRENT CURTIS 
 STEAM TURBINE 
 
 750 K. W. TURBINE 
 
Turbine 
 
 to forty pounds; and when one has such a boiler or boilers 
 
 they should be worked to their capacity in order to show 
 
 true economy. 
 
 The Curtis type of turbine engine is a most satisfactory 
 
 installation for a 100 K. W. requirement or over. It is simple 
 and compact in design, and is economical 
 as well as being modern in construction. 
 
 The Bleeder type permits of the taking of the exhaust steam 
 
 after its first stage in sufficient quantities to insure the proper 
 
 heating of the building. 
 
 There are several types of condensing outfits on the market 
 
 for use in connection with the turbine, and the engineer in 
 charge should be best informed as to which 
 type would be most suitable in each instance. 
 For smaller requirements than 100 K. W. 
 a direct connected generator with a recip- 
 rocating steam or gas engine might best 
 answer the needs of a manufacturer. 
 
 Condensers 
 
 Other Power 
 Units 
 
 9 HI LjuSI H»IMLa 
 
 LI 
 
 WLLL I 
 
 DIRECT CONNECTED GENERATOR SET AND 
 SWITCH BOARD 
 
The cost of making or buying current 
 should not exceed two or two and one-half 
 cents per K. W., except when purchased in 
 
 small quantities. 
 
 The artificial lighting of a factory is a feature which has 
 
 been the subject of considerable study during the past few 
 
 _. . , . years, and experience has proven that, under 
 
 Lighting ... . . ., , 
 
 most conditions, it is possible to provide 
 
 sufficient light by means of general illumination properly 
 
 located rather than by specific lights for each machine. 
 
 Shafting l}f inches in diameter throughout the plant, with 
 
 the exception of the Upper Fitting Room, seems to be rather 
 
 an ideal condition. This should be put up 
 
 • ^^^- ^ m units of 60 feet, and located 18 inches 
 
 wrighting . . i, , , r ~ r 
 
 from the wall and have a span of 8 feet 
 
 between the boxes, 10 feet being the limit for any span which 
 we should recommend. 
 
 Sells Roller Bearings are ideal for the boxes, as this type 
 
 of bearing reduces the frictional load to about 25 per cent, 
 
 . whereas with Babbitted Boxes the frictional 
 
 load, under the best installations, seldom 
 
 betters 40 per cent. A 10 or 12 inch drop to the hangers 
 
 should warrant a satisfactory condition. 
 
 The shafting should run 300 revolutions per minute, except 
 
 o j f m tne Upper Fitting Room, for at this speed 
 
 Sh ft" <s the driving Pulleys average a convenient 
 
 size, and the belt lengths to the various 
 
 machines are not excessive. 
 
 Steel pressed pulleys are recommended, and, although 
 p .. the first cost is a fraction more, the satis- 
 
 faction and wear are worth the difference. 
 The Upper Fitting Room Mill wrighting is special owing 
 to the type of bench most universally used, and to the high 
 
 Millwrighting Speed ° f the Upper sewing machines - The 
 for Uo shafting should be l-^- inches in diameter, 
 
 F'rf R and snou ^ run at 350 revolutions per minute. 
 
 The shafting should be connected with 
 
 motors by a silent chain belt to insure a uniform speed under 
 
Dust 
 Collecting 
 
 all conditions. The Spartan "V" Belt can be conveniently 
 used in connecting two or more benches where a separate 
 motor for each bench is not practical. 
 
 A slow speed, high pressure, dust collecting system is an 
 economical method of taking care of the dust problem. The 
 collector should be located convenient to the 
 power house, and the piping should, if pos- 
 sible, be on the outside of the building. 
 This seems the logical location, owing to the fact that when 
 it is put on the inside of the building it takes up too much 
 room. In placing it on the outside it is necessary to use a 
 somewhat heavier gauge piping, and this should, of course, 
 be kept painted in order to make it weather-proof. A rough 
 way of figuring the cost of installing a dust collecting system 
 is to figure from $30 to $40 for each dust making machine; 
 this figure does not include the cost of the motors for driving 
 the fans. 
 
 LINK BELT INSTALLATION IN UPPER FITTING ROOM 
 
 24 
 
TT 
 
 
 rr 
 
 
 fi 
 
 TT 
 
 
 FT 
 
 
 try 
 
 TT 
 
 
 rf 
 
 
 rs 
 
 rr 
 
 
 rr 
 
 
 1 
 
 PLAN OF UPPER FITTING TABLES CONNECTED WITH 
 SPARTAN OR LINK "V" BELTS 
 
 OVERHEAD EXHAUST SYSTEM 
 
 25 
 
Mmm 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 
 H | iii y i 
 
 fe " i i i L J ....it..iii 1 ... l 9EBK3 
 
 — - 
 
 : *l , . i 
 
 {, 
 
 TWO EXHAUST FANS ON OUTSIDE WALL, 
 ENDICOTT, JOHNSON & COMPANY 
 
ft — 
 
 "SELLS" ROLLER BEARING BOXES WITH SINGLE 
 
 ROLLER STRUCTURE FOR LINE SHAFTS AND 
 
 COUNTER SHAFTS 
 
 In operating a manufacturing plant, there is no one item 
 of expense of more importance than that of the "friction 
 load" of the power-transmitting machinery. 
 
 That this "friction load" can be reduced from 25% to 
 50%, depending upon load, speed, etc., has during the past 
 seven years been proven beyond any possibility of doubt 
 the only question remaining to be determined being the 
 type of Roller or Ball Bearing it is desirable to use. 
 
 A series of tests and actual use, for a period of six or seven 
 years, has demonstrated that a Roller Bearing is better 
 than a Ball Bearing for transmitting power in a mill driven 
 by steam, water or electricity. 
 
 27 
 
CARTON MAKING EQUIPMENT 
 
 THE AUTOBOX CARTON SYSTEM 
 
 The Autobox Carton System is particularly valuable to 
 shoe factories because it assures quality, convenience and 
 economy. 
 
 The box is made from a single piece of boxboard, the corners 
 of which are retained, and folded across inside the ends, thereby 
 doubling the ends and making them the strongest and stiffest 
 part of the carton. 
 
 Shoe manufacturers give away a carton with every pair of 
 shoes sold. 
 
 Carton cost is, just as legitimately as the leather cost, a 
 part of the cost of making and marketing shoes. Therefore 
 any saving in carton cost is just as vital; and in most shops 
 the saving is easier to make. 
 
 28 
 
The manufacture of acceptable shoe cartons is not a single 
 operation employing a single machine, but a progressive 
 operation involving several processes. 
 
 The first operation is the preparation of the box blank, 
 which is cut out and scored at one operation on a cutting and 
 creasing press. Next follow the gluing, folding and setting 
 up, which are performed automatically at one operation by 
 the Autobox, and which completes the shell of the box. 
 
 The blank for the lid is cut and scored by the same method 
 and on the same machine as the box blank — the die being 
 changed, of course. The lid blank is folded by hand or by 
 machine as may be desirable, according to the output, and is 
 "stayed" at the corners with Manila or Kraft Stock, on a 
 Staying Machine, thus completing the shell of the lid. 
 
 Both box and lid shells are then "stripped" with glazed or 
 colored paper, the operation being performed on "Stripping 
 Machines," of which there are several types, adapted to the 
 different requirements of different shops; and the lid is 
 "topped" on a "Topping Machine," usually with paper the 
 same as the strip. These operations cover the edges of the 
 blank and give a finished carton. 
 
 Machines for mixing the adhesives, for slitting the covering 
 paper and for baling the waste are usually made a part of the 
 carton plant. 
 
 The power required for the operation of the plant is com- 
 paratively slight, amounting to not more than three or four 
 horsepower in a 10,000 pair plant. Live steam from a half- 
 inch pipe is desirable for heating and mixing adhesives; but 
 if this is not conveniently obtainable, cold adhesives may be 
 used at but little difference in cost. 
 
 The employees, excepting for blanking and for the Autobox, 
 are usually women, and most of the operations are paid for on 
 a piece basis. 
 
 29 
 
HANDY REFERENCE FIGURES 
 
 Steam requirements in pounds for heating: 
 
 Goodyear Stitchers 35-40 lbs. 
 
 Goodyear Welters 35-40 lbs. 
 
 McKay & Richardson Sewers 40 lbs. 
 
 Bottom Driers 35 lbs. 
 
 Cost of heating a factory by steam in a climate like New 
 England: approximated 
 
 3 cents to 4 cents per square foot of floor space per season. 
 Boiler cost: 
 
 200 pounds pressure Babcock & Wilcox Co., about $16.00 
 
 per horse power 
 International Engineering Works, Ltd., about $11.00 to 
 $13.00 per horse power. 
 
 These prices do not include piping, but do include delivery 
 and setting 
 
 Motor cost : 
 
 From $16.50 to $20.00 per horse power 
 Turbine cost: 
 
 A. C. condensing type with exciter 
 
 100 K. W $4400.00 
 
 200 K. W 6700.00 
 
 300 K. W 8000.00 
 
 500 K. W 9600.00 
 
 Average price per K. W 26 .00 
 
 Switchboard cost about $300.00 
 Condensers (Jet Type) : 
 
 Cost from $1100 for 100 K. W. Turbine up to $2500 for 
 500 K. W. Turbine. 
 Cost of power equipment including boilers, turbine, switch- 
 board, condenser, and motors, but not piping, build- 
 ing or smoke-stack, from $80.00 to $90.00 per horse 
 power. 
 
 Note: These above prices are average costs only and are subject to 
 change with the market. 
 
 30 
 
Relations of the size and speeds of driver and driven pulley; 
 
 Diam. of Driver = Diam - oi driven x Rev <>* driven 
 Rev. of Driver 
 
 Diam. of driven = Diam - of driver X Rev, of driver 
 Rev. of driven 
 
 
 31 
 
NOTES 
 
 32 
 
NOTES 
 
 
 33 
 
STANDARD APPLIANCES FOR USE IN SHOE 
 FACTORIES 
 
 In the past few years the importance of standardized equip- 
 ment has been demonstrated to a large extent by the demand 
 of manufacturers for indestructible appliances. The metal 
 bench legs, metal racks and other such devices, seem to 
 fulfill this demand most successfully. These metal fixtures 
 become an asset to the manufacturer rather than a liability; 
 for they will wear indefinitely, are practically fireproof, and 
 because of the fact that they are collapsible they are easily 
 taken care of when not in use. These racks, tables, etc., 
 are made up in standard sizes, and, if so desired are made 
 movable with the best type of non-clogging casters or truck 
 wheels; thus making for the greatest convenience. 
 
 Stock racks are made up in standard size units so that from 
 
 c. , n . time to time, as the demands increase, new 
 Stock Racks , , , , , , . 
 
 units may be added and the continuity of 
 
 the stock room maintained. 
 
 In most departments of a factory certain hand operations 
 
 require the use of a table or bench. Much can be said to 
 
 rp , , condemn the old practice of using a continuous 
 
 bench for these operations, which consume the 
 
 best light in the less up-to-date factories, and where the 
 
 amount of bench space required depends largely on the 
 
 operator's disposition. The individual table takes care of 
 
 these objections when properly located. Its many uses 
 
 determining its indispensability, are as follows: 
 
 Cutting Room: Inspecting, sorting, matching, painting, 
 
 piecing stays and marking vamps. 
 
 Sole Leather Room: Inspecting, sorting, doubling, etc. 
 
 Stitching Room: Cementing, folding, ironing edges, 
 
 blacking edges, marking for buttonholes, lacing, 
 
 buttoning, trimming and inspecting. 
 
 Finishing and Packing Room: Ironing, cleaning, 
 
 staining, painting bottoms, inking edges, sock lining, 
 
 repairing tips and vamps, bow attaching, vamp ironing 
 
 and creasing, lacing and buttoning, inspecting and 
 
 packing. 
 
 34 
 
Fixed benches are an important fixture in a shoe factory, 
 and a standard metal bench leg has been designed for the 
 convenience of the shoe manufacturer. 
 These are made in two lengths — one for a 
 bench where the operator sits down and the other where he 
 stands up at his work. The expense of these is so slight that 
 the use of wooden joists can hardly ever be considered. Metal 
 legs can be used innumerable times, are always ready for 
 use and make a much neater appearance than wood. The 
 expense of finding a carpenter and looking for material is a 
 decided nuisance as well as a needless expense. 
 
 Many operations, such as sorting, stacking soles and 
 
 counters, etc., have in the past been done on fixed benches 
 
 or tables, so that the work must be handled 
 
 . several times before it reaches its destination; 
 
 such as packing and unpacking on trucks. 
 
 Movable Cut-sole Racks, Movable Sorting Tables, etc., do 
 
 away with this unnecessary handling by just pushing the 
 
 table or rack directly to the operator. 
 
 Movable Last and Form Racks, Shank Racks, Last Boxes, 
 Upper-carrying Racks, Bag Holders, etc., are helping to carry 
 out this idea of reducing unnecessary handling, which prevents 
 the liability of loss of pieces and the danger of mixing sorted 
 parts, as well as loss of time. 
 
 On the following pages will be found illustrations which 
 depict the various types of equipment which have been 
 described in the preceeding paragraphs. They also give an 
 excellent idea of the range of uses in which this equipment 
 has already found a place. 
 
 35 
 
METAL SHOE RACK 
 
 
 1/5T 
 
 NON-CLOGGING 
 (FRAME KNOCKED DOWN FOR SHIPMENT) CASTOR 
 
LONG DOWEL SHELF 
 
 TREEING-ROOM SHELF 
 
 PARTITION SHELF (Long Dowel) WITH COVER 
 
 37 
 
SHOE RACK FITTED WITH COMBINATION PIN 
 PARTITION SHELVES 
 
 SHANK RACK 
 
 38 
 
"STAND-UP" FLOOR 
 POST 
 
 'STAND-UP" FLOOR LEGS 
 
 \ 
 
 FLOOR BRACE 
 
 WALL BRACKET 
 
 39 
 
'SIT-DOWN" FLOOR 
 LEGS 
 
 CUT-SOLE RACK 
 
 MOVABLE BAG HOLDER 
 
 40 
 
MOVABLE STOCK TABLE 
 
 INDIVIDUAL WORK TABLE 
 
 41 
 
UNIT STOCK RACK 
 
 UPPER CARRYING RACK 
 
 42 
 
CEMENTED SOLE TRAY RACK 
 
 MOVABLE LAST RACK 
 
 43 
 
PACKING AND NAILING RACK 
 
 PICKING UP 
 
 PACKING ON SLANT 
 
INDEX 
 
 Appliances, Standard, for Use in Shoe Factories . . 34 
 
 Bearings 23 
 
 Bearings, "Sells Roller" 27 
 
 Belt, "Link" Installation in Upper Fitting Room . . 24 
 Belt, Plan of Upper Fitting Tables connected with 
 
 Spartan "V" — Illustration 25 
 
 Benches 35 
 
 Building, The 6 
 
 Building, The Light of a 10 
 
 Building, Material of n 
 
 Buidling, Size and Shape of 8 
 
 Cartons, Equipment for Making — Illustration ... 28 
 
 Carton System, Autobox 28 
 
 Condensers 22 
 
 Dust, Collection of . 24 
 
 Endicott- Johnson "Scout" Factory — Illustration . . 9 
 
 Equipment, Mobility of 35 
 
 Exhaust Fans, Two on Outside Wall — Illustration 26 
 
 Exhaust, Overhead System — Illustration .... 25 
 
 Figures, Handy Reference 30 
 
 Floors, Altitude of 10 
 
 Floor, Plan, Ideal Shoe Factory 7 
 
 Hospital at Plant of USMC, Beverly — Illustration. . 13 
 
 Humidifying Room 14 
 
 Humidifying Room — Illustration 15 
 
 Illustrations, Miscellaneous: 
 
 Brace, Floor 39 
 
 Bracket, Wall 39 
 
 Castor, Non-Clogging 36 
 
 Holder, Movable Bag 40 
 
 Legs, Table, "Sit-Down" 40 
 
 Legs, Table, "Stand-Up" 39 
 
 Post, "Stand-Up," Floor 39 
 
 Rack, Cement Sole Tray 43 
 
 Rack, Cut Sole 40 
 
 Rack, Movable Last 43 
 
 45 
 
INDEX (Continued) 
 
 Illustrations, Miscellaneous: (Continued) 
 
 Rack, Packing and Nailing 44 
 
 Rack, Shank 38 
 
 Rack, Shoe, Combination Pin, Partition Shelves . 38 
 
 Rack, Shoe, (Frame knocked down for shipment) . 36 
 
 Rack, Shoe, Metal 36 
 
 Rack, Unit Stock 42 
 
 Rack, Upper Carrying 42 
 
 Shelf, Long Dowel 37 
 
 Shelf, Partition (With Cover) 37 
 
 Shelf, Treeing Room 37 
 
 Table, Individual Work 41 
 
 Table, Movable Stock 41 
 
 Lighting . 23 
 
 Light and Power, Synopsis 17 
 
 Locker and Wash Room, USMC, Beverly — Illustration 14 
 
 Millwrighting 23 
 
 Millwrighting for upper Fitting Room 23 
 
 Motors, Alternating Current 20 
 
 Motors, High Voltage 20 
 
 Motor, Three H.P., Replacing "Mule Stand Drive" — 
 
 Illustration 19 
 
 Motor, Five H.P. Driving 12 Hand Method Lasting 
 Machines and Four Rex Pulling-Over Machines — 
 
 Illustration 19 
 
 Motors, Type of . 20 
 
 Offices 12 
 
 Power 18 
 
 Power and Light, Synopsis 17 
 
 Power, Cost of 23 
 
 Power Plant, Cost of 20 
 
 Power, Other Unites 22 
 
 Pulleys 23 
 
 Racks, Stock 34 
 
 Sash, Lupton Steel for Side Walls — Illustration ... 11 
 
 46 
 
INDEX (Continued) 
 
 Sash, Pond Continuous, and Sawtooth Roof — 
 
 Illustration 12 
 
 Shafting, Speed of 23 
 
 Storage, of Material 13 
 
 Tables, Cutting Room 34 
 
 Tables, Finishing and Packing Room 34 
 
 Tables, Sole Leather Room 34 
 
 Tables, Stitching Room 34 
 
 Tower 10 
 
 Transmission, New Method 20 
 
 Transmission, Old Method 20 
 
 Turbines 22 
 
 Turbine, 100 K.W. Alternating Current Curtis Steam 
 
 — Illustration 21 
 
 Turbine, 750 K.W. — Illustration 21 
 
 Welfare, Employees' 13 
 
 Windows it 
 
 47 
 


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