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THE SEEDING AND 
 PRESERVATION 
 OF GOLF LINKS 
 
 BY: 
 
 J. M. THORBURN & CO. 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 J. M. THORBURN & CO. 
 
 33 Barclay Street 
 

 ^^\^ 
 
 |LiBRARY of doNeREsi] 
 
 MAft 16 S908 
 j! 2 o X Lo-o 
 
 COPY B. 
 
 Copyright, 1908 
 By J. M. THOEBUEN & CO. 
 
Introduction 
 
 'HE preparation of the following pages 
 was suggested by the frequent ap- 
 plications received from golf clubs 
 for information as to the seeding of 
 their grounds. Their aim is to 
 answer the questions that present 
 themselves to greens committees in connection 
 with the formation of new courses, and the main- 
 tenance of established ones. These questions are 
 assuming greater importance every year, the con- 
 stantly improving condition of the older and 
 more favorably situated links raising the stan- 
 dard of what a course ought to be, and the prac- 
 tice of intervisiting keeping that standard con- 
 stantly in view. Every club is anxious to have for 
 visiting players, especially during the open tour- 
 naments, as fine a course as they are accustomed 
 to, and every chairman of greens committee feels 
 the spur of criticisms made by members of his own 
 club on their return from visiting a better course, 
 so that the ideal links will always be, for most 
 clubs, only an aspiration ; and it is easier to point 
 out the inevitableness of this state of tilings than 
 to provide a cure for it. The only approach 
 to a remedy, indeed, in our varied and trying 
 
SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 
 
 climate, is constant care and attention, intelli- 
 gently directed. 
 
 These incentives to the improvement of the 
 grounds have assured the future of golf in 
 America, and those gentlemen who have assumed 
 the burdens of the work have done more for the 
 cause of the game than they are generally credited 
 with. For to the majority of its votaries the 
 charm of golf will always include the freshness 
 of the country air, and the exhilaration of walking 
 on a green elastic turf, untiring to the foot and 
 pleasing to the eye. 
 
 Important 1 
 
 Too much stress cannot be laid on the import- 
 ance of securing the best seed. 
 
 It must be remembered that there are many 
 grades of the various sorts offered for sale. The 
 best is none too good. 
 
 We have for many years made a specialty of 
 grass seed, and we import and deal in the highest 
 grades only, so that those who entrust their orders 
 to us can have the assurance that they will re- 
 ceive the very best the market affords. 
 
Turf 'forming Grasses 
 
 THE first condition of success in securing a 
 good golf course is a due recognition of 
 the relation between soil, situation and 
 climate on the one hand, and the different varie- 
 ties of grasses on the other. As every grass has 
 its own peculiar habit and habitat, the whole in- 
 quiry resolves itself into two questions : Firsts 
 what varieties are suitable for golf links; and, 
 second, which of these are, at the same time, 
 adapted to the peculiar soil and situation under 
 consideration! 
 
 The first question is easily disposed of, as it 
 is obvious that all turf -forming varieties are 
 suitable, without regard to their particular shade 
 of color or fineness of texture. These niceties 
 will be considered separately in connection with 
 the putting-greens. ^^ Bunch grasses,'' that is, 
 grasses that grow, like Orchard Grass, in tussocks 
 or detached bunches, are excluded, and only those 
 of a prostrate habit of growth, or with creeping, 
 interlacing roots, are admissible. The following 
 list includes all the distinctive and longest lasting 
 of these, and the answer to the second question is 
 supplied by our account of the conditions under 
 which they thrive. 
 
SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 
 
 AGROSTIS CANINA (Rhode Island Bent Grass). Re- 
 sembles Red Top (A. rulfjaris, described below), but is of 
 dwarfer habit, with shorter and narrower leaves. It makes 
 a beautiful, close, fine turf, and is one of the very best 
 grasses for lawns. It adapts itself to almost any soil, rich 
 and moist, or dry, sandy and sterile. It is a native of 
 Europe, but has been cultivated in our Eastern States for 
 many years, being valuable for permanent pastures. The 
 meadows, however, from which it has been saved here have 
 of late run largely into the freer seeding Red Top, so that 
 we now import it from Europe, where it has been more 
 carefully cultivated. Fifty to 60 pounds of seed to the acre 
 is recommended for lawns. 
 
 AGROSTIS STOLONIFERA (Creeping Bent, or Florin). 
 The distinctive feature of this species is, as the name implies, 
 its compact, creeping, rooting stems. It prefers low bottom 
 lands, especially if they are somewhat sandy. It is of rapid 
 growth and spreading habit, and the stoloniferous roots 
 form a strong, enduring turf, that is positively impro\ed 
 by constant trampling. Being of fine texture, it is one of 
 the most valuable of our lawn grasses. If sown alone, 
 50 pounds to the acre should be used. 
 
 AGROSTIS VULGARIS (Red Top; Herd's Grass). A 
 very hardy native perennial grass, succeeding best on 
 moist land. It accommodates itself to a variety of soils, 
 however, even to quite dry situations, and stands our hot 
 climate admirably. It is, perhaps, the most permanent grass 
 we have, and it enters largely into the composition of our 
 best natural pastures. It remains green for the greater 
 part of the year, and its long, trailing stems form a vei'y 
 close, matting turf, that is not affected by trampling. It 
 grows well as far south as Tennessee. Of the absolutely 
 clean or "fancy" seed, 30 pounds to the acre is sufficient. 
 
 ALOPECURUS PRATENSIS (Meadow Foxtail). One of 
 the best permanent pasture-grasses for rich, moist lands. 
 Its chief characteristics for our purpose are its extreme 
 
 
 
OF GOLF LINKS 
 
 earliness and its faculty of standing high summer heats 
 without burning. Although it prefers moist, low grounds, 
 it accepts drier situations, and makes an earlier spring 
 verdure than any other variety. It should be sown only 
 in connection with other grasses, 4 or 5 pounds to the acre. 
 
 CYNODON DACTYLON (Bermuda Grass). Decidedly 
 the most valuable grass for southern golf links. It is of 
 dwarf habit, with long creeping stems, rooting at the joints 
 and covering the ground with a matting of fine turf, which 
 no amount of trampling will impair. As it cannot endure 
 frost, it is of no value north of Virginia. It thrives in the 
 poorest and sandiest soil, and resists extreme drought and 
 the most intense tropical heat. It should be sown at the 
 rate of 20 pounds to the acre. 
 
 CYNOSURUS CRISTATUS (Crested Dog's tail). A sto- 
 loniferous perennial forming a smooth, compact and lasting 
 turf. It thrives best on rich, moist land, but it can accom- 
 modate itself to almost any soil. Its roots penetrate deeply 
 into the ground, which enables it to stand severe droughts. 
 It is, on this account, valuable for hilly situations. The tex- 
 ture of its turf is well adapted for putting-greens. If sown 
 alone, 40 pounds to the acre is none too much, but it is 
 recommended only in mixture with other sorts. 
 
 FESTUCA DURIUSCULA (Hard Fescue). This is really 
 a "bunch grass" and not a creeping-rooted species, but it 
 may be recommended in mixture for high, dry, sandy soils, 
 where most other grasses would not grow. It thrives in 
 such soils, and can endure long periods of drought and 
 extreme summer heat. Forty pounds to the acre. 
 
 FESTUCA RUBRA (Red Fescue). A creeping-rooted 
 species, forming a close and lasting turf, and specially 
 adapted for dry, sandy soils. It resists extreme drought, 
 and thrives on very inferior soils, gravelly banks and ex- 
 posed hillsides. It is also valuable for binding shifting 
 sands on the sea-shore. As a lawn grass, its chief merit is 
 
SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 
 
 for positions too shaded for better sorts. Thirty pounds 
 to the acre. 
 
 FESTUCA TENUIFOLIA (Slender Fescue). This is 
 really a variety of Festuca ovinu, and not a turf-forming 
 species. It will grow on very dry and inferior soil, how- 
 ever, and its dwarf habit of growth and fineness of leaf 
 render it not unsuitable for such situations in fair-greens. 
 It is one of the finest leaved grasses we have. Forty pounds 
 to the acre. 
 
 LOLIUM PERENNE (Perennial Rye Grass). Although 
 called a perennial, it seldom lasts more than three or four 
 years. It is the most valuable grass of Great Britain, both 
 for pastures and for meadows, occupying there the same 
 relative position of importance that Timothy holds here. 
 The cool, moist climate of England seems to suit it best, 
 yet it succeeds very well in our Middle and Eastern States, 
 and adapts itself to a great diversity of soils. The seed is 
 large and heavy, and produces a strong, verdant growth in 
 four or five weeks after sowing. There are several varieties 
 of the Perennial Rye Grass. That known as "Pacey's" is 
 of very vigorous growth, and of a more bushy and leafy 
 habit than the type. It is excellent in mixtures for strength- 
 ening and enlivening the turf of fair-greens. Sixty pounds 
 to the acre. 
 
 LOLIUM ITALICUM (Italian Rye Grass). Though last- 
 ing two or three years under very favorable circumstances, 
 it is practically an annual. Like the Perennial Rye Grass, 
 it is a remarkably rapid grower, and has, in addition, the 
 advantage of standing extremes of temperature, remaining 
 green throughout the winter, and retaining its freshness in 
 the hottest summer months and during prolonged droughts. 
 When sown very thickly, or in mixture with other sorts, it 
 makes a good, dense turf, and it has been used with much 
 satisfaction on lawns as far south as Jacksonville. On rich, 
 moist soils it is exceedingly productive, and it also does 
 
 8 
 
OF GOLF LINKS 
 
 fairly well in less favored situations. Fifty pounds to the 
 acre. 
 
 POA COMPRESSA (Canada Blue Grass). A very hardy 
 perennial grass, with creeping root-stocks, forming a close 
 and durable turf of fine texture. It grows on the poorest 
 and driest soils, sandy, gravelly or clayey, standing extremes 
 of wetness or drought, and keeping green till the severe 
 frosts of winter. It is distinguished from the Kentucky 
 Blue Grass by its flattened, wiry stems and by its decidedly 
 bluer color. Sixty to 70 pounds to the acre. 
 
 POA NEMORALIS (Wood Meadow Grass). The chief 
 characteristic of this grass is its special fitness for shaded 
 positions in lawns and woodland parks, where other grasses 
 will not grow. It is very permanent and hardy, resisting 
 extremes of heat and cold, and is one of the first grasses to 
 show a rich green growth in the spring. The creeping 
 roots are formed underground, and make a good turf. 
 Thirty pounds to the acre. 
 
 POA PRATENSIS (Kentucky Blue Grass; June Grass). 
 One of our most widely distributed and valuable native 
 grasses. It combines more points of excellence than any 
 other sort. It is a true perennial, lasting indefinitely and 
 improving every year. Its densely creeping root-stocks, 
 spreading habit, and smooth, even growth, fine texture and 
 rich green color render it one of the very best grasses for 
 golf links. It forms a close turf, starts very early in the 
 spring, and lasts till frost. It succeeds in almost any soil, 
 dry, rocky, sandy or gravelly, and stands long-continued 
 dry weather and hot suns. It takes, however, two or three 
 years to become well established and should, therefore, be 
 sown only in connection with other grasses. If the soil is 
 specially suitable it will eventually crowd these out, and 
 make the finest possible sward. Forty-five pounds to the 
 acre. 
 
 9 
 
SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 
 
 POA TRIVIALIS (Rough-stalked Meadow Grass). A 
 spreading, thickly matting, stoloniferous-rooted species, 
 forming a fine turf, and well adapted for the more shaded 
 portions of lawns. It thrives on rich, moist soil, and in 
 sheltered situations, but does not do well on dry land. 
 Twenty pounds to the acre. 
 
 WHITE CLOVER (TrifoUum repens). Some White Clover 
 is usually included in lawn grass mixtures. It is of dwarf 
 habit, the stems creeping and rooting at the joints. It 
 spreads rapidly, and is very hardy, resisting extremes of 
 heat and cold, dryness and humidity, and accommodating 
 itself to all kinds of soils. The seed should be sown in the 
 spring — not more than two pounds to the acre. 
 
 The Theory of Grass Seed 
 Mixtures 
 
 The above list comprises all grasses suitable 
 for golf courses. Their different characteristics 
 at once suggest the propriety of selecting par- 
 ticular sorts to meet particular conditions of soil, 
 situation and climate. It does not follow, how- 
 ever, that the best results are always obtained by 
 sowing any one variety, for it is a well-ascer- 
 tained fact, fully recognized by all successful agri- 
 culturists, that a thicker and more prolonged 
 growth is produced by a mixture of several sorts 
 than by only one or two, and that a combination 
 of grasses may thrive on a piece of ground on 
 
 10 
 
OF GOLF LINKS 
 
 which any one of them would succeed indiffer- 
 ently. Our present concern is not with the ex- 
 planation of this fact, but with its significance. 
 It is obvious that a mixture of various sorts 
 simplifies the task of selecting the grass to sow, 
 and minimizes the risk of failure. For out of 
 many varieties there will always be some to suc- 
 ceed, even if others should fail. This is a very 
 important consideration in a climate like ours,, 
 where, on certain soils, prolonged droughts and 
 hot weather might completely burn up a turf com- 
 posed of one species. In a mixed turf the several 
 sorts are mutually helpful in such a case, the very 
 decay of some of them serving as a mulch and 
 protection to the others. But apart from these 
 contingencies, mixtures have a peculiar fitness for 
 golf grounds, in that they insure an abundance of 
 verdure for the greater part of the year, some- 
 being at their best very early in the spring and 
 others not till late in the fall. 
 
 It is true that there are individual species, like 
 Kentucky Blue Grass, that start very early in the 
 spring and maintain a vigorous growth till winter 
 sets in. They do this, however, only after they 
 have become well established in soils that are 
 eminently suited to them; and when the condi- 
 tions are specially suited to a particular species 
 all others will be crowded out in a few years, any- 
 way. Here, as elsewhere, the struggle for exist- 
 ence results in the survival of the fittest. 
 
 For practical purposes, then, it is sufficient to» 
 consider the general character of the ground to 
 
 11 
 
SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 
 
 be seeded, whether high and dry, low and wet, or 
 a good soil between the two. A mixture of five 
 or six of the above-described grasses, preferring 
 corresponding conditions, is sure to give satis- 
 factory results. 
 
 i> 
 
Formation of Putting-greens 
 
 THE preceding chapter is intended to apply to 
 the seeding of the fair-greens or grounds 
 in general, where the grasses must, from 
 the nature of the case, be chosen to suit the 
 ground. But for the putting-greens the ground 
 may be made to suit the grasses. Their limited 
 area makes this possible, and the fact that only 
 a few grasses will give the required quality of 
 sod and fineness of texture makes it necessary. 
 Eighteen greens, each 100 feet square, cover 
 only four acres of ground, — a space which can 
 easily be given sufficient care and attention to 
 produce a perfect and permanent turf. The 
 unsatisfactory condition of many of our putting- 
 greens is due neither to the climate nor to neg- 
 lect, but to the initial mistake of sowing unsuitable 
 grasses on imperfectly prepared soil. In their 
 eagerness to begin play, new clubs often plan 
 their putting-greens on the best parts of the 
 existing turf. It may safely be asserted that no 
 amount of care or patching will ever convert these 
 spaces into good greens. Another common 
 method is sodding with transplanted turf. This 
 may be done with success, when good turf of pure 
 Kentucky Blue Grass or of the bent grasses can 
 
 13 
 
SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 
 
 be obtained. Turf of this description is not 
 uncommon in the old pastures of our middle and 
 eastern states. We say old, because the grasses 
 mentioned are those that would naturally be in 
 possession after a number of years, all others 
 being crowded out by them. Where the matter of 
 expense is unimportant and such turf available, 
 some time may be saved and fairly good results 
 secured by sodding. Those who adopt this plan 
 must observe carefully the following necessary 
 conditions of success: The soil must be deeply 
 dug and a liberal supply of barnyard manure or 
 other fertilizer worked into it. The surface should 
 be soft and finely pulverized, and the sod pressed 
 down as firmly as possible upon it. The heaviest 
 roller will not press it too firmly. A covering of 
 lialf an inch of fine soil, through which the grass 
 ■will quickly grow, will prevent the turf from dry- 
 ing out. 
 
 As a rule, putting-greens formed either by 
 patching the existing turf or by sodding with 
 transplanted turf, are only make-shifts, although 
 under the conditions above mentioned the latter 
 .plan has been known to give good satisfaction. 
 The simplest and surest plan is to make the 
 greens by seeding with grasses peculiarly adapted 
 for the purpose. 
 
 The first and most important step is to pre- 
 pare the ground thoroughly. Trenching to the 
 depth of two feet will insure proper drainage, 
 and enable the grasses to penetrate deeply into 
 ihe soil. The deeper and freer the root-growth 
 
 14 
 
OF GOLF LINKS 
 
 the more able will they be to withstand summer 
 droughts and severe winters. If the work can be 
 begun in the fall, so much the better. In trench- 
 ing, the soil should be thoroughly pulverized, and 
 an abundant quantity of well-rotted stable manure 
 worked into it. The following spring a dressing 
 of ground-bone and chemical fertilizer should be 
 applied, the soil again turned over, the surface 
 finely pulverized by raking and rolling, and lev- 
 elled to a perfect grade. 
 
 Eeferring now to the list of turf-forming 
 grasses given in a former chapter, we observe that 
 the first two species of Agrostis; viz., Ehode Island 
 Bent Grass and Creeping Bent Grass, and Cynos- 
 rus cristatus, are suitable for forming the quality 
 of turf required on a putting-green. Their low, 
 creeping, densely matting habit, fine, yet not too 
 fine, foliage, their great permanence, and their 
 peculiar quality of improving the more they are 
 tramped upon, all suggest special fitness for this 
 purpose. A mixture of these sorts should be sown, 
 the greater proportion being Creeping Bent on 
 low, moist soils, and Ehode Island Bent on high, 
 dry land. (In the states south of Virginia Ber- 
 muda Grass should be used.) In this section these 
 grasses, sown during the latter part of March, on 
 soil so prepared, will produce a turf fit for play 
 by September, and one which will keep on im- 
 proving indefinitely. If the seed is sown on the 
 newly raked surface, it need not be covered. The 
 ground must be rolled, however, to press the seed 
 into the earth and to give the final smoothing to 
 
 15 
 
SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 
 
 the surface. In sowing, care mnst be taken to dis- 
 tribute the seed evenly, and not in patches. A 
 very liberal quantity is recommended of the bent 
 grasses, — say 25 pounds of clean seed to each 
 green of 100 feet square. 
 
 16 
 
Time of Sowing 
 
 THE proper time to sow grass seed depends, 
 of course, upon the latitude. In the cen- 
 tral and eastern states from the middle of 
 March to the middle of May (and frequently to 
 middle June, according to season) is the best time. 
 If sown later, the grasses may not be strong enough 
 to stand the hot, dry summer months. Seed may 
 also be sown in the fall, provided it is done early 
 enough to secure a good, strong growth before 
 winter sets it. If the young plants are not well- 
 rooted, they are liable to be killed by frost or 
 thrown out of the ground by the action of alter- 
 nate freezing and thawing. That is the objection 
 to late fall sowing. The advantage of it is that, 
 if the grass comes safely through the winter, it 
 has a good start in the spring. The sowing should 
 be done when the ground is moist, or before an 
 expected rain, and a subsequent rolling is always 
 advisable, in order to press the seed into the soil. 
 Seed for the putting-greens should be kept always 
 on hand, and before every rain in summer it 
 should be sown on any thin or burnt-out spots 
 that may appear. 
 
 17 
 
Weeds 
 
 DEAN HERBERT said that ^'plants do not 
 grow where they like best, but where other 
 plants will let them.'' The remark is 
 peculiarly applicable to weeds — of all kinds. They 
 are most in evidence the first season, before the 
 grass has become well established, occupying 
 every thin or bare spot. But once a close turf has 
 been formed, they will cause little trouble. The 
 only way to get rid of them is to sow enough grass 
 seed to crowd them out and prevent the introduc- 
 tion of others. With a few exceptions they are all 
 annuals, dying at the approach of winter. Let the 
 spots occupied by them be scarified in the spring 
 with a steel rake, or harrowed, if the area is large ; 
 then apply some chemical fertilizer and sow grass 
 seed. The weeds will not appear in these spots 
 again. The perennials, however, such as dande- 
 lions, docks and plantains, are not so easily dis- 
 posed of. These must be pulled out by the root 
 and grass seed sown in their places. Most weeds 
 are easily kept down by the lawn-mower, and, ex- 
 cept by their unsightliness, cause little trouble to 
 golfers. One important exception deserves par- 
 ticular notice. Its scientific name is Panicum san- 
 guinale, but it is best known and least esteemed 
 
 18 
 
OF GOLF LINKS 
 
 as ^^crab grass'' and ''summer grass." It lies 
 low before the mower and springs up elastic be- 
 hind it, — refusing to be cut. It is a most aggres- 
 sive expansionist, seizing upon any spot that 
 offers it standing room, and crowding out every- 
 thing that cannot resist it. It is most conspicuous 
 and unsightly in the early fall, when it turns 
 brown. By the end of autumn it is dead. It leaves, 
 however, much seed of very great vitality which 
 will come up again the following year and crowd 
 out the finer grasses. If in the fall it is found 
 that this grass exists it is important that the 
 plants of it be at once cut out, so that they may not 
 seed. If fertilizer is then applied and grass seed 
 thickly sown, the space may be saved from next 
 year's invasion of this pest. There is no other 
 remedy. Crab grass grows wherever other grasses 
 will let it, and nowhere else. 
 
 19 
 
Earthworms 
 
 THE genius of Charles Darwin was devoted to 
 a long and exhaustive study of the action 
 of earthworms, and his experiments proved 
 conclusively that their borings and castings have 
 a very beneficial influence on grass lands. He 
 estimated that over ten tons of dry earth per 
 acre are passed through their bodies annually, 
 undergoing, in the process, a grinding that greatly 
 improves its quality as soil. While we recognize 
 the annoyance caused by worm-casts on putting- 
 greens, we hesitate to suggest any means of de- 
 stroying these useful creatures. It is, of course, 
 impracticable to do so over a large area, but on 
 grounds where they are particularly troublesome 
 the selection of fertilizers might be made with a 
 view to keeping them under. The alkaline effect 
 of wood-ashes is very irritating to them, and they 
 cannot stand quick-lime. On putting-greens 
 earthworms might be destroyed by saturating the 
 ground with a kerosene wash, or ground charcoal 
 might be spread over the greens in the spring ; but, 
 even there, it is probably as well to put up with 
 their operations and to minimize the trouble they 
 cause by brushing their castings off, or over, the 
 greens lightly with a broom. A distinguished golfer 
 recommends the following formula: Take yk oz. 
 corrosive sublimate and mix with two quarts of 
 water; then add 40 or 50 gallons of water and 
 sprinkle the ground, using an ordinary watering- 
 pot. 
 
 20 
 
Fertilizers 
 
 THE essential elements of fertilizer for grass 
 lands are nitrogen, phosphoric acid and 
 potash, because these are the chemical 
 elements which the grasses in growing appro- 
 priate in largest quantity, and which are present 
 in the soil in smallest proportion. All the com- 
 mon manures and commercial fertilizers contain 
 these elements in greater or smaller quantity, and 
 are valuable proportionately, so that it really does 
 not matter what kind of fertilizer is used, pro- 
 vided these necessary elements are rendered avail- 
 able as food for the plants. The matter of avail- 
 ability is very important, for it is obvious that the 
 fertilizing constituents are useless unless they are 
 in a form in which they can be assimilated by the 
 plants. This fact suggests the propriety of using 
 particular forms of manure or fertilizer, accord- 
 ing to the conditions of the soil and the manner 
 of application. 
 
 STABLE MANURE. This is decidedly the best and most 
 economical form of fertilizer to use in the initial prepara- 
 tion of the ground for permanent grass lands. A too liberal 
 quantity can hardly be applied. A very heavy dressing, 
 plowed in in the fall, and another dressing cross-plowed in 
 the following spring are recommended. This manure con- 
 
 21 
 
SEEDING AND PRESERVATION 
 
 tains all the "essential manurial elements," but in a form 
 more or less insoluble. They become available slowly and 
 continuously, as the manure decays. Besides being one of 
 the best direct fertilizers, this form of manure has a most 
 valuable mechanical effect in improving the condition of the 
 soil — the vegetable matter in it making stiff, clayey lands 
 more porous and a too light soil more compact. But, 
 although there is nothing better for plowing under, it is by 
 no means as economical when used as a top-dressing. For 
 when so applied the mechanical effect above mentioned is 
 only slightly exercised, and much of the fertilizing proper- 
 ties is lost by the long exposure to the atmosphere. These 
 considerations, and the extra labor involved in spreading in 
 the fall and removing the coarse vegetable parts remaining 
 in the spring, make the natural manure less desirable for 
 surface application than some of the other forms of fertil- 
 izer. Its liability to contain weed seeds is still another 
 objection to stable manure for top-dressing. 
 
 GROUND BONE. As a fertilizer for grass lands, ground 
 bone comes next in importance to barnyard manure. In the 
 preparation of the ground, a liberal quantity of the coarser 
 grade should be well worked into the soil, where it decom- 
 poses slowly, furnishing a continuous supply of nitrogen 
 and phosphoric acid. For top-dressing, the finer grade, 
 known as "bone meal" or "bone flour," should be used. 
 There is nothing better than an early spring dressing of 
 this at the rate of half a ton to the acre. On putting- 
 greens it might be supplemented by nitrate of soda, at the 
 rate of 300 pounds to the acre, because the nitrogen in 
 the bone is somewhat slow to become available. 
 
 CHEIVnCALi FERTILIZER. A high-grade complete 
 chemical fertilizer is probably the surest and most effective 
 spring top-dressing for grass. It contains all the essential 
 elements in a highly concentrated and quickly available 
 form. Half a ton to the acre is sufficient on an ordinary 
 soil. To ensure even distribution, it should be mixed with 
 equal bulk of dry earth. Such a fertilizer is also excellent 
 
 22 
 
OF GOLF LINKS 
 
 for working into the soil when making putting-greens. 
 Chemical fertilizer should be bought guaranteed or subject 
 to analysis. 
 
 SHEEP MANURE. In the pulverized form in which it is 
 usually sold, this manure makes an excellent top-dressing. 
 It may be applied either in the fall or early spring, at the 
 rate of three or four tons to the acre. It contains nearly 
 twice as much solid matter as horse manure, and is very 
 rich in phosphoric acid, nitrogen and potash. It also adds 
 humus to the soil, which chemical fertilizers do not. Mixed 
 with water — 1 pound to 5 gallons — and a little muriate of 
 potash added, it makes a most effective liquid fertilizer for 
 putting-greens. 
 
 WOOD ASHES. The fertilizing value of unleached wood 
 ashes is due to the potash which they contain. To 
 make a complete fertilizer it would be necessary to 
 add some phosphoric acid and nitrogen. For this pur- 
 pose 1,000 pounds bone meal and 300 pounds nitrate of 
 soda to the acre would answer. Any quantity of the ashes 
 may be used, — 3 to 5 tons to the acre. They have an im- 
 portant mechanical effect in lightening the soil. Leached 
 wood ashes contain only 1 per cent, potash and have prac- 
 tically no fertilizing value. In purchasing, care should be 
 taken to get pure and unleached ashes. 
 
 NITRATE OF SODA. — In stimulating the growth of grass, 
 nitrate of soda is the most quickly effective top-dressing, the 
 nitrogen in this form being immediately available. It is 
 extremely soluble, and penetrates deep into the soil, thus 
 promoting a stronger and deeper root-growth. It is very 
 valuable to promote a quick growth on new grasslands and 
 should be applied preferably when the young grass is 2 or 
 3 inches tall. Two or three slight dressings at intervals 
 throughout the season are recommended in preference to 
 one heavy application. An equal quantity of bone meal 
 mixed with it would supply the requisite phosphoric acid. 
 For a putting-green 100 feet square, 40 pounds of this mix- 
 ture would be sufficient at a time. 
 
 23 
 
Rolling and Mowing 
 
 ROLLING. — As soon as the frost is out of 
 the ground in the spring, the land should 
 be gone over with a heavy roller. Winter 
 frosts loosen the soil, and rolling is necessary to 
 compress it again. If grass seed is to be sown, 
 this should be done first and the rolling immedi- 
 ately afterwards. Frequent rollings are recom- 
 mended. 
 
 Mowing. — All turf-forming grasses are im- 
 proved, both in vigor of root-growth and in fine- 
 ness of texture, by frequent mowings. It is im- 
 possible to say just how often the grass should 
 be mown, as that depends upon the rate at which 
 it grows. In the spring and early summer, when 
 the growth is most vigorous, three cuttings a week 
 are recommended for putting-greens. Too close 
 cutting should be guarded against, however, es- 
 pecially during the hot summer months, when the 
 roots require some top-growth to protect them 
 from the burning sun. For the same reason it is 
 as well not to rake off the cut grass, as it quickly 
 settles about the roots and forms a valuable pro- 
 tective mulch. A good top-growth is also neces- 
 sary to protect the roots from severe winter 
 frosts. Mowing should therefore be discontinued 
 in time to let the grass grow pretty long before 
 winter sets in. 
 
 24 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS 
 
 J. M. THORBURN & CO. 
 
 Seedsmen 
 
 33 BARCLAY STREET, NEW YORK 
 
 (LATE OF 36 CORTLANDT STREET) 
 
 Established 1802 
 
 FOR over a liTindred years our house has made 
 a specialty of grasses. We were probably 
 the first to introduce to this country, for 
 commercial distribution, the many valuable nat- 
 ural and cultivated foreign species that now take 
 such an important part in our agricultural econ- 
 omy. The formation of permanent pastures and 
 meadows has for many years been a subject of 
 careful study with us, and our celebrated formulae 
 for seeding grasslands have received universal 
 recognition. 
 
 We have given similar attention to lawn- 
 grasses, and our thorough knowledge of the sub- 
 ject enables us to prescribe the most suitable kind 
 for all soils, situations and climatic conditions. 
 Most of the very finest lawns from Florida to 
 Canada were produced by seed prescribed and 
 
 25 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS 
 
 furnished by us. We could justify this statement 
 by thousands of testimonials if space would 
 permit. 
 
 Wliat we have done for lawns and pastures 
 we can do for golf links also. Our knowledge of 
 grasses and their requirements is the outcome of 
 close observation and long experience. Besides 
 being able to give sound advice, our position as 
 large wholesale dealers in grass seeds enables us 
 to supply the required varieties, of the highest 
 grade and at the lowest prices. We invite Greens 
 Committees to consult us, either personally or by 
 letter. 
 
 Our general seed Catalogue contains a full 
 descriptive list of all valuable natural and culti- 
 vated grasses and clovers, both foreign and 
 domestic. We shall be glad to mail it on appli- 
 cation. Where large quantities are required we 
 shall quote special prices, at same time submit- 
 ting samples if desired. Grass seeds can only he 
 bought intelligently by sample, as their value de- 
 pends so much upon tveight and purity. 
 
 The following celebrated courses were obtained 
 from the use of grasses and fertilizers prescribed 
 and furnished mainly by us: 
 
 St. Andrews Golf Club 
 Wee Burn Golf Club 
 Apawamis Golf Club 
 Nassau Country Club 
 Hackensack Golf Club 
 Nashville Golf Country Club. 
 Essex County Country Club 
 Chicago Golf Club 
 Philadelphia Country Club 
 Baltusrol Golf Club 
 Upper Montclair Country Club 
 
 Calumet Country Club 
 
 Rockland County Country Club 
 
 Geo. W. Vanderbilt's Biltmore Estate 
 
 Allegheny Country Club 
 
 Shinnecock Hills Golf Club 
 
 Montclair Golf Club 
 
 Englewood Golf Club 
 
 Oakmont Country Club 
 
 Buffalo Country Club 
 
 Woodlawn Cemetery. 
 
 Morris County Country Club 
 
 26 
 
AVl'ERTISEMENTS - 
 
 FERTILIZERS FOR LAWNS AND 
 GOLF LINKS 
 
 Thor burn's Grass Fertilizer 
 
 Guaranteed to contain ammonia, 6 to 7 per cent; phos- 
 phoric acid, all soluble, 8 to 10 per cent; actual potash, 
 5 to 6 per cent; lime, sulphate of magnesia, soda, sul- 
 phuric acid, etc. Specially prepared for top-dressing lawns 
 and golf links, imparting to grass a rich green color and 
 vigorous growth. Being very powerful, half a ton is suffi- 
 cient for an acre on soil not impoverished. 
 
 PRICE — In 167-lb. bags, per ton, $50; single bags 
 of 167 lbs., $4.50. 
 
 Pulverized Sheep Manure 
 PRICE — Per 100 lbs., $2; per ton, $28. 
 
 Unleached Hardwood Ashes 
 PRICE — $22 per ton. 
 
 Bone Fertilizers 
 
 Pure Ground Bone Meal. This finely pulverized ground 
 bone is excellent for top-dressing. It decomposes very rap- 
 idly, and is more quickly effective than the coarser grade. 
 100 lbs., $2; per ton, $30. 
 
 Ground Bone No. 2. This is coarser than the above, and 
 is suitable for working into the soil. It decomposes slowly, 
 furnishing a continuous supply of nitrogen and phosphoric 
 acid. Per 100-lb. bag, $2.25; per ton, $36. 
 
 Nitrate of Soda 
 
 Furnished always at market price, which fluctuates con- 
 siderably. 
 
 N. B.-On large quantities of above Fertilizers special prices will 
 be quoted. 
 
ADVER TISEMENTS 
 
 GRASS SEED MIXTURES 
 
 PERENNIAL GRASSES FOR GOLF LINKS. 
 
 For Fair We prefer to make special mixtures to suit 
 
 the particular conditions of soil and situation. If correspondents 
 will describe the nature of the land to be seeded, whether dry, 
 moist or medium., and whether clayey, sandy or loamy, we shall 
 recommend a suitable mixture, and quote price at same time. 
 
 For Putting-Greens. Our finest possible mixture for putting- 
 greens. Price per bushel of 24 lbs., $7. 
 
 FOR LAA\^S. 
 
 Thorburn's Lawn Grass Mixture. The finest possible mix- 
 ture for lawns. It should be sown at the rate of 4 to 5 bushels 
 to the acre. Price per bushel of 15 lbs., $3.50. 
 
 Thorburn's Lawn-Restoring iVIixture. A mixture of grasses 
 
 peculiarly suited to take firm hold and grow quickly on hard, 
 worn-out or burned spots. The bare spots should be well scratched 
 or raked up, and this seed soAvn liberally. Cover very thinly with 
 earth, and then roll or press down firmly with the back of the 
 spade. Some Lawn-Restoring Grass Seed should be kept always 
 on hand, and before every rain during the summer some of it 
 should be sown on any part that may appear thinner* than the 
 rest. Price per quart-box, 30 cts. ; per bushel of 24 lbs,, $5. 
 
 FOR MEADOAV AND PASTURE. 
 
 We invite country gentlemen to send for our circular of formu- 
 las for permanent meadows and pastures. It gives the names of 
 the grasses used and the proportion of each. They are all made 
 so as to be sown at the rate of 40 lbs. seed to the acre. Our 
 prices, per acre, are as follows: 
 PERMANENT MEADOWS— 
 
 No. 1. For good land, neither too dry nor too wet. $6.00 per acre. 
 
 No. 2. For high and dry land 7.00 " 
 
 No. 3. For wet, late land 6.00 " 
 
 PERMANENT PASTURES— 
 
 No. 4. For good land, neither too dry nor too wet. 7.00 " 
 
 No. 5. For high and dry land 8.00 
 
 No. 6. For wet, late land 7.00 
 
 Our General Catalogue gives full description and prices of all 
 valuable natural and cultivated grasses and clovers. It is mailed 
 free on application. 
 
 28 
 
GRASS SEED MIXTUBES-Contiuued. 
 
 THORBURN'S SPECIAL LAWN GRASS MIXTURE. 
 
 This extra-choice mixture contains a large proportion of the finer 
 and more expensive species, such as Rhode Island Bent, Crested 
 Dog's-Tail, Creeping Bent, in extra-heavy samples, bringing the 
 weight up to 20 pounds per bushel, and producing a turf of the 
 closest and finest texture possible. Price per bus. of 20 lbs., $5. 
 
 THORBURN'S LAWN GRASS FOR THE SOUTH. 
 
 A mixture of grasses that stand extremes of heat and drought 
 well and that are therefore peculiarly adapted for Southern lawns. 
 Bus. of 20 lbs., $6. 
 
 THORBURN'S GRASS MIXTURE FOR SHADY SPOTS ON 
 
 LAWNS. 
 
 A mixture of grasses that thrive in shaded situations, under 
 trees, or close to walls where there is little sun. Bus. of 24 
 lbs., $6. 
 
 THORBURN'S SPECIAL LAWN GRASS MIXTURE FOR 
 
 THE SEASHORE. 
 
 A mixture of fine grasses peculiarly suited to seaside lawns. 
 Bus. of 20 lbs., $5. 
 
 POLO-GROUNDS MIXTURE. 
 
 A mixture of fine-leaved and deep-rooting grasses, forming a 
 strong and lasting turf that will stand hard usage. Per bushel of 
 20 pounds, $3.25. 
 
 TENNIS-COURT MIXTURE. 
 
 A mixture of extra-fine grasses peculiarly adapted for tennis- 
 courts. This mixture will make a firm, green and lasting turf of 
 finest texture, that will improve with tramping. Bus. of 24 
 lbs., $7. 
 
 29 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS 
 
 Coldwell Improved Horse Lawn Mower 
 
 This well-known standard Mower has side-draft attachment, to enable the horse 
 to walk on the cut grass only, and caster-rollers, which will not mark the lawn. 
 Evenness of cut is assured by an adjustment which raises or lowers the two sides 
 at the same time by means of a simple lever movement; the same lever serves the 
 purpose of raising the knives' from the ground when driving over gravel walks or 
 
 TO ft lis 
 
 NET PRICES free on board New York 
 
 25-in. cut, no shafts, $38. I 35-in. cut, complete, $78. 
 30-in. cut, complete, $65. | 4.0-in. cut, complete, $95. 
 
 Capitol Lawn Trimmer and Edjyer 
 
 For trimming close to walls or fences. A useful labor-saving device. Price, $6 each 
 
 Cast-iron Hand LaAvn 
 Rollers 
 
 All Sizes. See Our General Catalogue 
 
 Cast-Iron Horse Land 
 Rollers 
 
 With either Pole, for 
 two horses, or Shafts, 
 for one horse. Prices 
 a on application. 
 
 SO 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS 
 
 The Thorburn Century Ball 
 Bearing Lawn Mower 
 
 BALL-BEARING 
 
 SELF-ADJUSTING, EASIEST WORKING 
 
 LONGEST LASTING 
 
 A 20-inch cut machine can be used with greater ease 
 than a i6-inch cut old style mower. 
 
 PRICES 
 
 14-inch cut $8.50 18-inch cut .... 
 
 16 " •* 9.50 20 " " .... 
 
 4^ Special prices to Golf Clubs requiring a number of them 
 
 31 
 
 U0.50 
 11.50 
 
A D VEBTISEMENTS 
 
 Chain Roller or Golf Mower 
 
 The Best for 
 Putting- Greens 
 
 This mower is made to meet the demand for a machine that will 
 more perfectly cut borders, verges, etc., and yet retain all the other 
 features necessary in a mower for general work. The great advantage 
 of this mower is the substitution of a bicycle chain for the gears generally 
 used in this style of mower. This reduces the friction to a minimum. 
 The machine with six blades is highly recommended by most of the 
 leading golf clubs in America for work on putting-greens. 
 
 NET PRICES, free on board New York 
 
 
 4 Blades 
 
 6 Blades 
 
 
 4 Blades 
 
 6 Blades 
 
 12-inch cut . 
 
 . . $12 00 
 
 $13 00 
 
 16-inch out . 
 
 . . $14 00 
 
 $15 00 
 
 14-inch cut . 
 
 . . 13 00 
 
 14 00 
 
 18-inch cut . 
 
 . . 16 00 
 
 17 00 
 
 HORSE BOOTS 
 
 Made of very strong, heavy Heather, 
 c losely riveted. Pr ice per s e t?of fou r, $9. 
 Eeinforced"inside,with;steelfplate, per'set 
 of four. $11. 
 
 32 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS 
 
 Coldwell's 
 
 Motor Lawrv Mower 
 Style "D"- 
 
 The machine weighs 2,000 pounds, and will negotiate 25 per 
 cent, grades. It consumes from ^ to ^ of a gallon of gasoline per 
 hour, cuts a 40-iach swath, and will do three times as much work 
 in a day as any ordinary horse lawn mower. Will almost pay for 
 itself in a single season. 
 
 Price, $1,300 net, f. o. b. New York City. Terms, strictly net 
 cash on delivery. 
 
 CAN BE SEEN IN OUR WAREHOUSE 
 
 Circular on application 
 
MhK 
 
 619C>^