jm fF iAi m^ mi m^M Ml f'mff*f^m»f>: 'f .^^mf^f^m 'Ar\'^r.2'/y2'^r\'. '^A^HC^ ^^' ^^HJ. hM^i^^^ LIBRAR v OF CONGRESS. IMTED STATES OF AMERICA. UTJTfTAft .o'^A'^^^r^^^^^ --'^ ^A^r •^■^.m^r' 'r^r^'^N^f\f\, 'AycA^ow^^ ^hlQh^^^r^^^^ 'm;(r!^m ^^nnn^^nw^w-A 'AA'"Ar-^A:, Av:v;^/ /^ • •■ ./-v ^ Ate *^:?'i.'~^S5ASA ,^' -^AO ' .^'•*rtAAA•'■- .'A^'^^^A' i^A^.^./^ftAA, . ft^- ' A/^ ^^aa'^^^^^^^"^ A,A..:^;:^' flfl/^/iii wna^i^rfeSffi: ^||^IA« 'a ■"' A-A '^f^^^ ^«*.,^e^..^^^ JSSslffSff WAa.aAa' AS2:^^-^^^ifei«sS^ Twelve States AND A KINGDOM. By S. R. Kp>^: Watseka, Illinois: iroquois county times print, 1878. ?f^ To my mother, the one true sympathizer in every sorrow from youth to age, I dedicate this work. S. R. K. COPYRIGHTED -1878. PREFACE. MMHERE are certain mornings dawning so bright and glorious (f^ and so filled with inspiration that my feeble pen would fain grasp the hidden revelations in the air, to insure their portrayal to the few friends most appreciative. Of the many assayed but ineffectual attempts to reduce the chaos of iny thoughts to a state of fonn and completeness, I will not speak. But this February moniing of 1877, bejeweled with frost and encu-cled with sunshine, when apparently Spmig is negotiating with Winter for balmy air and budding foliage, comes an assurance fi'om the land of my bii-th that my literary eiforts have been appreciated by loving friends whose constancy has remained unshaken during the buf- fetings of twenty years and I am induced to commence a recital of my wanderings through "Twelve States and a Kingdom." The various guide-books compiled for the use of travelers l)y sea and land, have been the faithful pilots to point out to me the historical events herein mentioned and have stood as a lighthouse between me and error. Go little book! Under the flag of truth. I launch thee, trembling, upon the waves of criticism. Ere thou art entirely stranded amid the breakers of public opinion, may some few voyagers on the Sea of Literaturerhave derived a day's recrea- tion as they bask in the sunshine of the most pleasant details, or sail under the clouds of which their experience is perhaps a- counterpart. CHAPTER I. fHE centennial year is a thing- of the past and the anni- versary of the next centiuy will unfold its beauties to us only throug-h our spiritual vision. Thus ere the chirography of that happy event enacted at Philadelphia, becomes obliterated by that most prodigious of effacers, time, I hasten to chronicle my experience during my journey to, and sojourn amidst, the wonders of all climes, cast together under the broad canopy of heaven and sheltered under the municiiial wing of the Quaker City. A year's wi-inkles have gathered upon many a face since the final stitch was set in the garments prepared especially for this tour of the world. Those veiy gannents#that iiistled and shone with all the splendor of newmess, alas! have yielded up their brightness and lustre and become old. But, save the victims of war, temj^est, fire, riot and confusion, were this the centennial year, America's children and her foreign brothers and sisters would set forth with the same stream- ing banners of their nationaUty, independent and free, foitified with gold, silver and greenbacks to master the infinite sight of a century's growth. Among the many trials of Ufe, ranks foremost the making up of one's mind. If a person have decisiveness of character he is deemed fit to care for himself without adventitious aid. For a timid woman, an undertaldng like the overlooking of two continents, was no small affaii" to decide. Beuig fortu- nately circumstanced there was no crusty husband in the case to agonizingly grasp, the pocket-book and groan " economy or stai-v- ation;" but my indulgent partner lovingly lifted his eyes over the rim of his daily paper and met my suggestions for a summer's trip with a hearty approval. The fiat went forth. A woman had b TWELVE STATES A XI) A KINGDOM. made up her mind. When a female heart is set upon a journey, woe be imt him that seeks to thwart her calculations. My chaperon was "chosen, selected and sworn" not to disappoint me. Being- a prosperous memljer of the bar of our county he would not see my legal rights infringed upon and possessing extreme sociability nd sufficient knowledge of the important histronic events of the past, whose shadows we were soon to be cast under, and, understanding the transactions of the present he would be one in whose presence ennui would be unlmown. With his amiable spouse tucked nder one arm, the other resei-ved for my use in emergencies, I fancied perfect security awaitf.-d me throughout my proposed journey. Monday morning, September eighteenth. bS'iB, wa 1 e day fixed upon for our departure. While the sultry days of August did not deter our preparations, the cooler weather of September was hailed vnth satisfaction. At last everything had been reduced to a state of completeness. The go■w^l for stated occasions had been perfected and its owner initiated into the mysteiy of its secret folds. Of the comforts stowed in satchel and trunk no traveling public could complain. Everj' possible want had been anticipated. The last few days of our home stay began to pass heavily for our work was finished. The feminine portion of the cargo was ready to be shipped. Can I ever forget my feelings of almost childish dehght when my ticket was given me, that elongated talisman that was to be my guide from ' ' W to New York City and return ' ' which were the magical \v( rds engi-aved thereon. The various important places we were to touch were arranged like so many coupons measuring a half yard in length, and our imagination clothed them wth an interest rightfully their due. 1 entrusted this treasure (the loss of which would render me undone) to the most secret comer of my purse and breathed a prayer that some innate necromancy might sun-ound it and avert my sudden ejection from the cars at some lone spot for which my inclinations were not bound. The ap- pointed time drew near. Was there ever such happiness that the shadow of a doubt did not cloud? There was yet the i)arting from one I held most dear ere I could launch myself on this sea of prospective hai^piness. One sigh from the bosom 1 loved best to rest upon, ettectually vanquished my carelully constructed air- castles and I realized truly that home was the dearest ^pot on earth to me. I gazed upon my ticket as a fatality, and danger EASTWATM) HO '. i and endless separation seemed to be written upon each of its tags. During the decade of onr married years no such distance as this that threatened to loom between us had ever been dreamed of, and now I was the first to put hundreds of miles betwixt my idol and my- self. The dread encompassed in those last moments at home, will remain with me always and I can safely say, now, after a twelve months intervention between that sad period and the present, that I shall not voluntarily purchase another ticket which I am com- pelled to follow for a distance of a thousand miles without the presence of my husband. The luoniing- of the eighteenth of Sep- tember dawned at last. There was an early meal without an appetite; a solemn walk to the depot, a few more wretched mo- ments of waiting and the five o'clock train hunied into our quiet city. The steaming engine snorted and puffed as if to give vent to its overcharged feeUng, but such safety valves were denied me and I could only breathe and act with the caluniess of despair. While husband and wife bade a hasty adieu, Mr. and Mrs. B , my travelmg companions, cast furtive glances at our baggage lest the sleepy agent had neglected his duty and left what should have been aboard, behind. Of course some necessary ariicle must be for- gotten and Mrs. B— missed her parasol as the u-on horse gave a sudden pull and moved out of the station lea^ang his track and one sorrowful watcher far in the distance. During the eight miles ride to S where we were to leave the Toledo, Peoria & War- saw Railway for the Cincinnati, Lafayette and Chicago Railroad, the long suppressed tears flowed freely and I was glad my com- panions were busy with each other, that, unnoticed I might mdulge my emotions and perhaps feel better for the outburst. I dried my eyes as the cars came to a halt and said to myself, "Seraj^hema it is your duty now to compose yourself ." ' In less than an hour we were again on our way. Meeting a young acquaintance who seated himself opposite us, we were agreeably entertained on our way to LaFayette, Indiana, where he resided. His youth, com- bined with manliness, excited our admu-ation and his easy descrip- tion of persons and things in general, were signiiicant of rapid improvement and that his time had not been thus far wasted to have acquired so much useful knowledge ere the Rubicon of cast- ing his first vote is safely passed; I say safely passed because voting the triumphant Republican ticket as I am sure he will, indicates that the poUtical principles of this youthful editor, rest b TWKIA'K STATES AND A KIN(!I)()M. upon a sure foundation whose comer stone is, freedom. We laid hold upon his suf,'-^estion that we mal<:e the Park View hotel our stopping' place wlule in Philadelphia and regi-etfully parted his com- pany. Our trainmen dined at Indianapolis, but some of the pass- engers like our trio, skinnished in the mysterious comers of their lunch baskets for a repast of home preparing excelling all the sale edibles exposed to view. As we neared Cincinnati I was reminded by cornfields upon the hillsides, of dear, old New York, my own native state with its multitudinous hills and dales so pleasing to look upon. The western fanner, the owner of miles and miles of prairie so monotonous to the sight, might inwardly groan at the idea of constructing lines of stone fences across the hillside to keep the golden pumpkins from rolling away from their mother stalk, but how cheering to the tired traveler is the sight of the growing grain on the hilltops upon the one side while the clay colored water of the Ohio upon the other, discharges its vapor and becomes dew to moisten the ripening kemel. At this stage of our progress I bethought me of the tunnels we must pass through and I remarked that we ought to have been provided with lantems to light us through the dark places and no sooner had the words escaped me till, plunged in a deep cavem, the faces of my friends were no longer visible and we had need of the clairvoyant's vision to trace the character of the rocky wall that environed us. We emerged from the darkness with smiling countenances. Is there not an innate joyonsness implanted wdthin the heart of man when smiles, laughter and hilariousness are indulged in even amid the rushing of the car over rock, precipice and cataract that fro-WTi and appal as we joimiey hith(n- and thither as our restless inclinations bid. We reach Cincinnati at five P. M. Tlie omnibus takes us up a small rise of gi'ound and lands us at a pleasant dwelling occupied by a lady friend of Mr. and Mrs. B 's. We find our hostess so charming in manner, with a face and fomr to be loved and admired, and a disposition and management of home and (•liil(hfn to be emded, that we have but one regret: that is that our stay caimot be protracted to days instead of a few hours. After a refreshing supper we are introduced to a kind, elderly gentleman who evidently is not averse to the attractions of our widowivl host- ess, and who offers to show us as many famous sights in the City as can be seen in the short space of three houre, The statistics that 1 shall herein give are just as I was informed and if there are I STOdD 1 TON THE BKIDOE. 9 eiTOrs in tliis narrative ascrilie them to hearsiiy as I cannot vouch for the truthfuhiess of all contained in these notes any farther than I can truly say I have perfect coniidance in my in- formants and believe they g-ave me the the best information they were possessed of. Already my artistic "jottmgs on the spot " have become so blurred that they are but imperfect helps in the formation of this record, and I must rely upon memory and her twin sister, inia"ination, for an intelligible recital. CHAPTER II. /rji^INCmNATI is situated on the north bank of the Ohio. It 4cl' has a frontage of ten miles on the river and extends back three miles. The hills that surround it are about 450 feet in height. Its sceneiy is variegated and not equalled by any other city in the United States, so I am told. It is built upon two terraces, the first sixty feet and the second 112 feet above the river. More than one- third of its population are German, who reside principally in that portion of the city north of the Miami canal, which they have named '' the Rhine." It is an entirely ditferent oountiy '* over the Rliine," the German language alone being spoken and the signs are in German. Fu-st we' are taken to the bridge across the Ohio, said to be the longest span in the world, being eleven hundred feet. The entii-e length is two thousand two hundred and fifty-two feet. It might properly be called "the Viridge of sighs," both on account of its great proportions, and in commemoi'ation of the twelve suicides committed from its height. Leaning over its railing we peer into the waters made dark with the shades of eventide, and watch the frail boats move in subserviance to the strokes of the oar. Head-lights like stars glimmer here and there, and I muse on all the treachery that silent sheet of water contains and wonder if the souls of those departed ones are hovering near this dreadful 2 10 TWELVE STATES AND A KINGD(1:M. pliico from wliioli they took tlieir voluiit;in- fliyiit. II;ive the}' foniitl a better clime or are they wishinj;^ tlieinselves I)ack ag'aiii on this verj' bridt,''e from Avhioh they prefii)itate(l themselves i Death is soleirm when it is inevitable but self-destniction is terrible in the ex- treme. It is too tnn^ that there is an almost iiTesistible impulse to cast one's self into the water or from any great height, and from this mammoth stnicture, the tendency to destroy life may l)e aggra- vated considering that the misery of the three states, Indiana, Ohio and Kentucky, and the three cities, Cincinnati, Covington and Newport, wliich this point overlooks, may here be concentrated, and perhaps it is meet that some of the anguish may here find obli\aon in the watery gi-ave. We next visited the Probosco-Davidson fountain, also called the Tyler-Davidson fountain, one of the finest in the world, being all lironze and costing near $."»00,000. The work was east in Mimich. I held a little messenger in my pocket that I wished to speed on its homeward v/ay, and finding a proper place I deposited it safely with a silent wish that it might find the loved at home, distant two hundred and fifty mdes, not too weary already with waiting. But the hour of nine drew near and we must retrace our srteps and seek a comfortable place in the cars that must be om- lodging place for the night. No sleeping coach could be obtained and so it seemed that there were plenty of other people traveling ovch- the Baltimore and Oliio railroad, tired and sleepy and seeking rest b\it finding none. The first part of the night T had a seat to myself, but about thi'ee o'clock I was obliged to resume an upright position and make room for another unhapj>y female. I may as well say once for all that if one derived his liapi)iness from a crowd, the rail car at this period Avas the place for a full realization. Crossing the southern paii of the State of Ohio in the night, Tuesday morning breakfast foiuid us at Parkersburg, 195 miles from Cincinnati. It is the extreme south- eastern part of the State of Ohio and is a city of ten thousand inhabitants. We have passed through five tunnels since leaving Cincinnati. At Parkei-sburgh Ave cross the Oliio river on a bridge one and one- tliird miles long. AAath six spans over the river and forty-three appi'oaching spans, completed in 1871 at a cost of over one million dolliu's. We agaui draw upon the lunch box for supplies with the exceptions of coffee Avhich Avas obtained from a can in possesion of a small boy who stood on a bank near the c:U' windoAV. At Grafton the mountain diAdsion of the road commences. This day is an FKASTIN(; ON ALLKGIIANY SCEJJKKY. 11 epoch in our journey and enstamped on my raemoiy with life-long vividness. With mountain sceneiy for the eye and agreeable conversation for the ear we were doubly entertained. The magical words rang in my ears, "'we are crossing the AUeghanies." I was seated on the left side of the car, the one most favorable for an inspection of the grandeur before us, and my seat-mate was a social, candid gentleman who had familiarized himself with this mountain wildness and directed my attention to the various wonders, grand and subhme, as we flew along on the brink of destruction as it seemed. This day bears another noted event of my Ufe, the missing of mj'^ noon-day meal. Whether the Ipss of appetite was caused by the cun^atures in the road which rocked the cars like a boat tossed on the waves (the effect«of wliich we were told to counteract by the free use of lemons with which we were well provided) or whether the sublimity of my suiTOundings would not admit of the gross masticatory proceeding, I leave my readers to imagme for themselves, but true it is sandwich, chicken, pastry, frosted cakes, fruit and confectionery were alike devoid of their usual flavor, and 1 was filled witli contemplations of the infinite grandeur around me and might well exclaim "1 have meat that ye know not of." Eighteen miles from Grafton we strike Cheat mountains. We pass through the longest tunnel on our way, Kingwood tunnel, 4,100 feet long and costing one miUion doUars; also Murray's tunnel 250 feet long. There is a cUstance of two miles between the two. Between Parker-sburgh and Deer Park, in Maryland, with its one hundred inhabitants, there are twenty-four tuimels. The nineteenth and twenty-fourth are the longest. Deer Park has an altitude of 2,700 feet. Here (iren. Grant was wont to pass his vaca- tions. During each succeechng summer's heat v/ill my mind revert to that lovely spot, Deer Park, on the top of the Alleghanies, with its grottoes, springs and green lawns and above all its fine air of which the denizens of the marshy prairies are denied. Two huge engines drew us to the top of the mountains and when the descent began the forward one ran ahead of the train at a frightful rate and as I gazed from the window and saw places where the road surely nuist meet a rocky termination 1 fancied the flying monster leaping from the track to find a lodging place only in the thm depths below. A feeling of fear came over me such as 1 had never felt before. I often ask myself the question, would 1 dare take the risk again? 12 TWKIA'K STATES AND A KINGDOM. We were onkM-tninod with such tales as that once upon a time a certain eng-ineer and brakesman exchaiig-ed quids of tobacco while romidinf,'- one of the numerous curves in the road. I have heard of the meeting- of two extremes. I never saw a nearer verification than when our eng-ine saluted the final car of our train, (if inani- mate objects can enact a salutation) and at the speed we were going- one might well fancy our iron hoi-se endowed with nerve and sinew and muscle to thus obey the will of man who hath said as God spake to the sea "Thus far shalt thou go and no farther." In many places stray drops from miniature cataracts dashed upon us as we passed. Imagine a storm in that wild region when each tiny rivulet Ijecomes a mighty toirent. Laugliing cascades leap from dizzy heights and ^shing springs form innocent little brooks, that, as they munnur along their rocky bed. gather force and strength and develop into navigable rivers. Here is the fountain head of the Potomac that miles distant bears upon its broiwl bosom the vessel of war or the boat of the pleasure seekers. The dangers we feared were not far away and about two P. M. we were informed that farther progress was barred by a fearful chasm made by the washing out of a large culvert, and that in the abyss below were heaped cars of coal and that our transit must be made on foot over stones and planks laid on the now empty bed of the stream that must contain a rushing tide when the rains descend, and augment the waters to a destructive flood. The picture needs no fancy color- ing. Our suiTOundings were weird enough for a faiiy tale. It was estimated that two thousand persons were congregated in that mountain gorge. There were passengers from three trains of from seven to nine cars each, besides the workmen employed in repairing the break in the road. Our baggage wiis transferred Ijy the hands of the trainmen. A defile of a thousand persons through those lonely mountains, methinks is not a scene of frequent occurrence, but such a romantic experience was well woiih the delay. On reaching the eastern side, some seated themselves on the railroad ties, some on logs and stones; some climbed the mountain side by the aid of trees so thickly set they seemed to conceal every imagin- able danger. The sound of a pistol cut the air and cries of "Modocs" were raised to make the scene more temfying and add to our entertainment during the embargo. Many of the southern and western States were representcjd. A bride and groom from Oregon lent a chann to our novel position. Politics were not for- STANDING UP FOR OUR lUGlITS. V^ gotten in that isolated glen and a vote being taken a delegation of Democrats from St. Louis swelled a majority of two for Tilden. Old Sol was fast on the decline when relief came in the form of a pas- senger train from the east, and then ensued a display of selfishness, a conscientious historian may weU hesitate to naiTate — with the eastern passengers hurrying off to possess the cars we had vacated some three hours before, and the western watchers crowding on to secure seats, for we well knew there were not coaches sufficient to accommodate the waiting multitude. After every available space had been seized, even to the wood-box, the remainder seated them- selves in the aisle on their satchels, if they possessed them, if not they remained stanchng. It was a season of equal rights — the right to care for number one, and the heart of a president of a Woman's Rights Association would have bounded in her bosom to have seen stx'ong men clingmg to their seats mth the tenaciousness of despair while the fragile sex enjoyed ( V) the right of per])endicularity in the aisle with over-crowded bandboxes under their arms and convulsiv<> looking satchels in their hands, while the melee for even "standi?};/ room going on below would have necessitated the sendees of a chiropochst had not the conductor opportunely appeared demanding a sight of madam's ticket thereby opening a new channel of annoy- ance, and the f orns were forgotten long ei'e the eagei'ly sought for ticket came to the surface of one of those unfathomable hand-bags, when, as fast as one article is removed another flies in to take its place rendering a downward view impossible, and the contents must be removed piece by piece as the desired aiticle is sure to be at the bottom. But conductors survive and grow corpulent amidst such ever}' day occun-ences, and our sympatliies need not be exten- ded in their behalf. What bundles of magic conductors are ! Un- daunted by crowds they seem to peer into space to common mortals invisible, for imaginary seats, so intense is their desire to cater to the wants of the passenger. This model conductor was master of the situation. What he did with the uncomforfable crowd I know not, but soon there was no one left standing in the aisle and I was even allowed a seat by myself where half reclining, with my head to the open window, I was enaljled to catch not only a cold but a moonlight view of Haiiier's Ferry. The mountain that towered above us was all the more solemn in its midnight grandeur. The heavens were thickly set with stars which flashed out in all bril- liancy and were reflected in the placid waters of the Potomac and 14 rV,'KI>YE Sr.VTKS AND A KTN'GDOM. Sheniuidoah rivers. One star falling from its dazzling h(^ight, was received on the bosom of the Potomac and forever lost. 1 longe(] for the day light that I might the better overlook a place so full of interest. "Point of Rocks" takes its name from a bold jjromontory which is fonned by the profile of the Catoctin mountains (a contin- uation of the Blue Ridge) against the base of which the Potomac i-uns on the Maryland side, the mountain towering up on the oppo- site (Virginia) shore, forming the other barrier to the pass." So we read. There seemed no limit to its height as I gazed out fi-om the car window as far as my eye could extend. T imagined rebels lying in ambush for our swift fljing train and luilf expected a band of greybacks to momentarily pounce upon us. 1 thought of the war that is ended, let us hope, forever, and prayed that o'er this region already twice battle scarred, the Angel of Peace would henceforth hover as she reigned this night in the mountain shadows or in the soft, stellar light from above. CHAPTER III. 'E reached Wiushington our Nation's Capital, Wednesday moniing, September twentieth, at about three o'clock, tired and weary. We followed a sable guide to the Hillman House, the oi-iginal portion of which was built by George Washington in 1776. But at that hour in the moniing and not ha\ang seen a bed since we left home, our concern was not so much when and by whom the hotel was built, but whether it contained comfoi-table lodguigs. We were placed as near the sky as the roof of the building would admit, but as this was the centennial year I was prepared to under- go any amount of inconvenience, and to be astonished at nothing that might happen. My bed was clean and tolerably soft and I slept the sleep of the just, after Mrs. B had settled the question that her bed was not clean and that she had not left her downy couch at home to be entertained ( ? ) in Washington in such a there's MILLION'S IN IT. 15 shabby style. The breakfast hour found me a willing compiler to its demands. The inner-woman satisfied I was ready to look about me. It did not take a close inspection of my room to discover that it was carpetless, and as my soles are extremely sensitive to any contact with bare floors 1 decided with Mrs. B in favor of a removal if no better quarters could be furnished us. The landlord seeing that we were practical people and not to be trifled with, accordingly placed at our disposal, large, handsomely carpeted apartments and we settled our baggage wth quite a homelike feeling and proceeded to take ourselves out for a day's reconnoiter- ing of the quiet city that sleeps so peacefully among its numerous parks. It seemed to me to be filled with echoes of the past which the minble of the street cars but h If awakened. I fancied the inhabitants living upon a perpetual inheritance that necessitated no care for future wants and left them at liberty to dream on uncon- cerned, save as to the passage of some bill that threatened to dis- turb the contuiuance of their rest, but which ev(Mitually was "laid on the table" — that convenient way of chsposingof all unpleasant matters a decision upon which might influence a voter in the wrong direction when the re-election period arrived. Their lethargy may be somewhat disturbed when the White House changes occupants or when the too vehement tones of some orator of the Senate Chamber, resounds through the silent halls of their dwelhngs. We Adsited the Treasury Department, just east of the White House. It is 582 feet long by IWO feet wide and cost six millions of dollars. It contauis two hundred roo u ■' of %yhi h the finest is the cash room. In the gold room there is usually about ten millions of dollars in gold coin, and may be seen by a pennit from the Treasurer. By the way we had a permit from tSeniitor Logan of Illinois to visit this building, and I will say that en our way to Washington we fell in company with a Mr. Davis an 1 Fon, from Cincinnati, whom we found very pleasant cnnj anion , and th y accompanied us during this day's pilgrimage around the city. The Executive mansion or the White House, is on Per nsylvania Avenue, one and a half miles west of the Capitol. It is of freestone, painted white, 170 feet long. <86 feet deep, two stories high. The east room is the grand parlor of the president, and to my eyes unused to such splendor, was fairly dazzling in its richne s. It is 80 feet long 40 feet wide and 20 feet liigh. The blue, red and green rooms are on the same floor. Owing to some repairs being made preparatory to the reception of 16 TWELVE STATES AND A KINGDOM. Gen. Grant iind family, then at Philadt^lphia, we only saw the blue room. I felt disappointed at not seeinf^ a real, live president, but while we were inspecting (len. Grant's domestic appointments, he was holding a reception at the Illinois State building at Philadel- phia, it being New York's day at the centennial. T had made up my mind to shake hands and be friendly and neighborly wth Ulysses and Julia as their foi'merhome. Galena, is only about one hundred and fifty miles from old Iroquois, where a portion of my liringing up was undertaken. I shall have to be content with a view of Vice President Colfax, and an opportunity to take him by the hand (which I neglected however). I shall prol)aVi]y see a great many men that like him want to be president but it is not possible that any republic will stand long enough to gratify every man's ambition in that direction. The park south of the White House is lovely. In the center of the lawn is a bronze statue of .Jefferson. The conservatories are on the west of the mansion. Somewhere during the day's journey we visited a statue of Lincoln, erected by the colored people. The first contribution was five dollars given by Charlotte Scott, it being the first money she earned m freedom. This statue is at the end of a street car line, and while we sat on the curb stone waiting to be conveyed thither, we fell in with a lady and gentleman on their return from the centennial. They said there were many places of interest they had neglected to vasit but their stay could no longer be protracted with pleasure, and Avhile the tears ran down the brown cheeks of that young father he said, there was one sight yet in waiting for them, far surpassing all they had seen, and that was the darling faces of their littile ones awaiting their arrival home. How true ! What are worth all the results of man's inventive genius compared to the priceless jewels God sets in our homes, alas many of them only for a season, till they are recalled to form a 00,000 volumes, and increases at the rate of ten or fifteen thousand volumes yearly. All copyright hooks are by law required to be deposited in this library." We had a distant view of the Soldiers Home, (for disabled soldiers of the regular army). We read that a piii-k of 500 acres svuTOunds the buildings, and that it has been the custom of the Presidents, since Pierce's administra- tion, to occupy one of the smaller buildings of the Home as a summer resort, and here President Lnicoln passed some of the last hours of his eventful term. From the Dome we had a view of the Arlington House, once the residence of George Washington Parke Custis, the last but one of the Washington family. It was later occupied by Gen. Robert E. Lee. Near the place two thousand one hundred and eleven unloiown soldiers are buried. The bodies were gathered after the war from the battle fields between Bull Run and the Rappahannock. Neiu-this is an amphitheatre with accommo- dations for seating five thousand persons, where are held the annual services of Decoration day. The graves of the white soldiers are separated from the colored troops and refugees, by a distance of over a half mile. Wasliington is situated on the north bank of the Potomac, and covers an area four and one half miles long by two and one half l.>road. Gen. Washington, if not the actual chooser of the site, had it selected through his agency, and it was he who laid the comer stone of the Capitol, September 18th, 1793, seven years before the seat of Government was removed from Philadelphia, and eighty-three years before our journey to the Clentennial commenced. Tlie city was laid out under Washington's directions, by Andrew EUicott. Washington desired it christened the "Federal City," but its pi'esent name was conferred on it September 9th, 1791. ' 'The sessions of both Houses begin at noon and usually close before sunset, but sometimes they are prolonged far into the night. A flag displayed over the north wing of the Capitol indicates that the Senate is in session; over the south wing, that the House is in session. If sittings are held in the night the great lantern over the Dome is illuminated affording a light visible for many miles." No inferior buildings, like weeds, crowd out the great flower of the Capitol. It blooms on dispensing a fragrance which the whole nation may inhale. As I sat upon its broad steps I realized that I was sheltered by a home of our forefathers building ; under a roof 20 TWELVE STATES AXD A KINGDOM. whose capncioiis width and breadth would admit and welcome the coming- of each child of our beloved republic. The lovely day drew to a close, and we were glad to seek our commodious quarters at the Hillman House. We were prepared to do ample justice to the excellent supper awaiting us. The brisk waiters, whose dusky powder was wan-anted "to wash," met our demands for fresh supplies of steak and potatoes, with gi-ins of delight, but I should not be surprised to hear of their groaning in anguish ere the season was over, if the on-coming tourist took up our march where we left off with alike voracious appetite. One old darkey smiled out loud when 1 told him hot water was my chief beverage. On our way from the dining hall to our rooms, we stepped into the cheerful parlor to see what attractions it might possess, and to inquire whether all the sight seeers were as tired as we were. "We were a jolly set of tramps, and recounted our encounters to each other with the familiarity of acquaintances of long standing. We entirely forgot our weariness when Mrs. E gave us a lively instrumen- tal piece on the piano, and sang in her sprightly jjleasing manner "Is this croquet V" T contributed my feeble mite in the shape of an old song, to the musicale, but on being requested to render Moody and Sankeyism T resigned my place to an elderly lady, fat. and fifty, I should judge, Avith more religion in her soul than music in her voice. A tall, lean woman supported the right wing, and a long, gi-ey-whi.skered, colporteur looking man in spectacles, drew up at the left, while their miscellaneous friends brought up the rear, and there they howled, their cracked, squeaky voices seeming to penetrate the very walls, which was enough to disturb the spirit of George Washington, had it been hovering near his fonner abid- ing place. The pnous looking man, gazed in vain over and under his spectacles at the notes, that, judging from the quavering manner in which he rendered them, must have danced around right lively before his faltering vision. We left the room but the din followed us. We sought our couches only to dream that we were being serenaded by a band of Choctaws, with Moody and Sankey at their head as chief scalpers. Just what hour they laid down their note books, and returned to camp, I can not designate, but out of a heavy sleep I awoke to the consciousness that another beautiful day had dawned and the mysteries of Mt.Yemon awaited us. SACRKD MT. VEENON. 21 CHAPTER V. I'iMHURSDAY morning, September tweiity-flrst, I set my foot ^y on board a steamer for the iirst time. T had oftentimes meditated what my conduct would be on taking such a step, but when the decisive moment arrived I walked courageously aboard, and took my seat with all the steadiness of an old tar, and with as much unconcern as if I had been a sailor's wife for years, instead of never having been out of sight of land hi all my life, and never venturing in a row boiit but once, where I became so frightened with the water at a depth of two feet that I threatened to throw myself overboard if 1 was not taken ashore instanter. But this Mt. Vernon boat seemed so safe, and the peo- ple looked so happy, that surely danger must be confined to the depths of old ocean. As the band of harp and violins struck up, coiibined with the easy graceful s-wing of the boat, my soul awoke to joyousness, arousing my musical faculties and I was almost tempted to vie with the angel G abriel in song, or keej) step ui a dance with the fairies that lightly sport on the waves. Alas! for the awakening. I am still but clumsy humanity with voice weak and feet sore. While the strains of the sweet music are echoing o'er the the waters and I am indulging m visionary spec- ulations as to the height of the blue heavens above or the depth of the blue waters beneath, more practical Mrs. B . intercepts the further progress of a rent in her glove by a " stitch in time " and is not troubled with the thought that while railway accidents may perhaps but set death's door ajar, the fatality of a steamboat explosion opens the hidden portals wide to the beauties of the immortal. The sun's glance, nor the wind's breath deter me from the enjoyment this trip aflbrds. Among' our passengers is a poor 22 T\Vlir,VE STATES AND A KrN'(i I)()>r. man with but one eye. How is he to take in the manifold beauties that everywhere present themselves. I have need of an extension of visual orb, and could not bear the curtailing' of a single ray of light the windows of m.y soul are wont to refresh me with. The banks of the Potomac are low and its waters much discolored -with recent rains. Alexandria meets our view and the hotel where Col. ICllswortli met his death is pointed out to us. We pass Jones' Point while the band insists that '" We shall meet on that beauti- ful shore." This delightful song is followed by " Dixie," and I feel all the old war spirit ui)on me. "The flag with one star " is counter- balanced l»y ''The star spangled banner," and North and South had no reason to complain of the diversity of music — its inspiring sentiments being adapted to both sections. Fort. Wash- ington is passed and we reach Mt. Vernon fifteen miles below Washington on the Virginia side of the Potomac. Shall I ever forget the sight of that long, solemn looking procession, as it wended its way up the gravelly hill — while the guide at its head repeated words that revealed to us the silent mysterii^s of this sacred ground. It was a time fit for the chanting of holy anthems o'er the graves of past events. Though their heroes slept, their deeds yet spake and the air seemed filled vpith the "spirits of just men made perfect," saintly conpanions of the revered Washington. We pause before the entrance to the tomb. Men lift their hats, women bow their heads to pay homage before this plain, solid brick structure with gate of iron, through which we gaze at the marble sarcophagi containing the remains of George and Martiia Washington. Some cast flowers inside the gate and all march away saddened but purified by this short com- munion with the dejjarted. The Mt. Vernou domain includes the mansion and six acres. Georg'C Washington inherited it in 1752. The central part of the mansion, which is of wood, was built by Lawrence Washington: the wings by George Wa,shington. From his death up to 1856 it remained in possession of his descendants. At that period it was purchased for the sum of $200,000 raised by subscription, under the auspices of the "Ladies Mount Vernon Association," aided by the efforts of Edward Everett. It is there- fore the property of the nation. It is impossible for me to describe all the ancicMit memoirs there collected. There is the key of the Hastile. prest'nted by Lafayette; military and personal furniture of Washington, centenary chairs, and on the second floor, small, cosy GKRKTIKfi OUK FRIENDS. 23 looldiig bedrooms contiiiniiig little else than the inviting herl, and on the doors were names of ditterent states. My curiosity was much excited as to the meaning of this and all my investigations concerning it have proven fruitless. We entered the room where Washington breathed his last breath. A fac simile of the bed- stead and drapery are there, the original having been removed from necessity as a too curious pulilic were candying them away by pieces as souvenirs. I sat at Washington's favorite window and looked out upon the landscape that years ago refreshed his weaiy eyes after hours of mental labor, planning for the safety and pros- perity of our government. Our boat load so filled the house that the small rooms were almost suffocating. It was a relief to breathe the fresh air on the lawn in front of the mansion overlooking the Potomac. What perfect rest there was under those grand old trees and what fragrance was diffused ffom the Avell-kept greenhouse. We paused under a magnolia tree planted by Washington's own hand. We were forbidden to pluck the leaves from the branches, but might gather the fallen ones, and how eagerly we sought among the green grass for the beautiful fohage of this wondrous tree. Not finding a leaf myself, a fellow traveler presented me with one which I treasure as a precious momento of the Father of our Country . We drank the clear, cold water from the deep old well whose cui'b was sheltered under a porch and guarded by an old colored man, who drew up the crystal beverage for every one that thirsted. He showed us a row of low. one stoiy buildings which in the days of our republic's infancy were the quarters of the negro servants belonging to the Washington estate. The lunch prep)ared in our western home not yet being exhausted, Mr. and Mrs. B and myself chose a cool spot under Washington's favor- ite oak, from which to take our mid-day meal. I gathered pebbles from a miniature gulch worn near the roots of the historic oak, and have since placed them among my few treasures at home. The magnoha leaf adorns the portrait of Lincoln, and when my thoughts would grasi> the glory of two such benefactors of our country, 1 glance at the picture and its faded green leaf upon the wall of my dwelling. As we were masticating our food and ruminating upon the i^ast and present, we caught sight of an advancing host that had but just landed, and soon were greeting the welcome faces of our western friends, faces now so begrimed with the smut of travel that they were scarcely recognizable, save by their smiles accom- 24 TWKLVE STATES AND A KINGDOM. panied by hearty hiiTul-shakliiji-s. Bat the hour for the departure of the fir.'^t boat drew near and each passenger atragg-led down to the boat-landing' as best suited his incHnations, and when the signal was given we were all on board ready to depart. Shades of Mount Vernon ! I have sometimes heard the exi^ression used in jest. To me the words will ever suggest a day replete with a subdued, holy happiness, a day that was as an oasis in the desert of life — sueh a day as comes only to those who by work and toil know how to appreciate calm and quietude. CHAPTER VI. ME left Washington Friday morning, September 22d. for Pliiladelpliia. Our last night's stay saw the Hill man House filled to overflowing, and even the parlor floor was covered with sleepers. The rail cars are no better, and we jam into our seats. The coaches are very handsome on this line, the arms of the seats shining like silver. I begin to doubt the propriety of buying a return ticket, considering the manner in which I am jostled from side to side, sometimes nearly submerged by the crowd, there will be nothing left of me to get home with the. last tag of my ticket. My seat mate between Washington and Baltimore was chief repi-e- sentative of a race of taciturn people, (which race it is to be hoped will become extinct before the next centennial anives). We dashed by so many beautiful things that 1 longed to know just where we were, but if I ventured a query his moroseness chilled my inquisitiveness, and I left him to his morning paper, but oh how I wanted to speak my mind. He wore good clothes and feigned city airs. He no doubt thought T was from the country, in my sober, sensible linen suit. Well, I was from a region where people are taught courtesy and affability. Lacking these qualities no person need simulate the true gontli'uin-n. We saw tracks of the late army OFF FOIt BALTIMOKE. 25 throng-h Maryland. After a two hours vide we reached Baltimore, distant from Washington thirty-eig-ht miles. It is situated on the north branch of the Patapsco river, fourteen miles from its entrance into Chesapeake Bay. The Baltimore and (.)hio Road possesses the interest of having been the theatre of some exciting scenes during the late civil war, it having suffered severely by the destruction of its rolling stock, track and bridges. As we jjassed through Balti- more I thought of a certain father residing within its precincts, who sent out his two sons to battle with life, well fortified with this worlds goods ; the one met with an early death — the other with moral destruction — the latter fate to be the most lamented. Our train was rolled tln-ough this city by attaching horses to the cars. Seven horses drew two cars while the lash was not spared. The streets are narrow, the houses dirty and dingy. In front of a clothing store I saw a live individual standing beside a dummy that was arrayed in fine raiment and I thought the knobby count- enance of the headless man quite as exi)ressive as the other. Chesa.peake harbor was full of boats. It finally took seven large, eastern horses that would flounce down in our western sloughs, to draw one car up the grade. It is not often one has a buggy ride on the cars. I think I have the countenance of the average south- erner very well impressed on my memory. Suffice it to say it is black as the blackest in the emancipated race, specimens of which thronged the streets of Baltimore, and in the white race among the lower classes, red predominates and blank ignorance stares you in the face. Perhaps we are too much governed by our prejudices in comparing different localities. I have no doubt but what this city that evidently puts its worst side oat to the railway traveler, has many cultivated citizens dwelling in grandeur and who utilize tliis colored element in their offices and households, but I should want the waters of the Chesapeake to ovei-flow them even forty days and forty nights before 1 made a valet or cliief cook of any of the specimens I saw. Humanity is well balanced. Selfishness, egotism and pomp- osity on the one side and affability and Idndness on the other. I wiU sell out cheap whatever interest I may have in ' ' My Maiy- la,nd." Some parts of the state reminded me of the sloughy, shrubby land of my own county. A vote is taken on the cars at this point, and the name of Hayes is heard on every hand. The result is fifty-three for Tilden and" one hundred and thirty for 4 26 TWEI.VK STATES AVI) A KrXODO'.f. Hayes, and this in a sontlu'rn fountry filled -witli Democrats. How my cheek burned with shame to be passed in(h'ttl'rently l)y without being tusked for an expression of opinion as to who should be ruler over a nation women lielp to uphold. The Susquehannah river empties into the beautiful (Chesapeake Bay at Havre De Grace. We cross the river on a bridge nearly a mile in length. After so much rain all the waters are of a clayey color. Delaware is a lovely little State with many fine sites for building. Deleware Bay is an enchanting sheet of water. Four miles from Newark the train crosses the famous Mason and DLxon's line, long the bound- aiy between the Northern and Southern States. Wilmington is the chief city of Deleware. Chester, fourteen miles from Phila- delphia, is the oldest town in Pennsylvania, having been settled by Swedes in 164;?, and four miles from it, is the Brandywine, famous for the battle fought on its banks in September, 1777. When we are witliin thirty-five miles from Philadelphia, a train of palace cars pass us, having left Washmgton an hour after we did. Its splendor flashed upon us as for a second and was gone. At two and a half o'clock, P. M., we reached Philadelphia, distant from Baltimore ninety-seven miles, and from Washington one hundred and thirty-five miles. We have now traveled nine hundred and sixty miles since we left home. We take a carriage and ride a distance of three miles to the Park View Hotel, situated on the comer of 29th and Poplar streets, opposite Faimiount Park with its lovely three thousand acres. We enter the hotel parlor and negotiate vrith the propiietor of the establishment for a week's board and lodging. Owing to the foolish desire of humanity to all visit the centennial show at the same time we did (and it was estimated that there were then one himdred thousand visitors in the city) we were glad to be shown a small room, the floor of wliich was covered with matting and the furniture of pine, painted a light color, and consisting of two bedsteads, one wash-stand, a table and two chairs, all new, however. A dividing line between the two beds was fonned by a white screen that, had it been painted green might have been an indication that inside was kept a " sample room," or what means the same thing — a place where beer and high-wines are dealt out. 1 chose the birth behind the screen in case of an invasion by burglars I might readily find shelter in the closet opening at my right hand. For the use of this coop we were each to jiay one dollar per day, our meals to be TIIK CRNTKNXTAL T! ATKS AJAR. 27 served on the European plan. Our trunks were brouf,rht up and it was the first sig-lit we had had of them since leaving home. They answered well the purpose of seats though they filled up the space to such an extent that there was not sutRcient room left in which to oscillate a feline; that difficulty was overcome however, as like one of Dickens' characters we had no occasion to swing a cat. We were now in a land where musquito nets were unused and it was the evenuig duty of Mr. and Mrs. B , the one armed with a slipper while the other held a lamp, to lay- siege to the few buzz- ing insects that sat ujjon the walls of our fortress. Entrenched behind my screen I could overlook the works with all the security of a quarter-master, who has naught to guard but clothing and rations. On our way to the hotel the carriage was crowded and our ears were regaled with the varied experiences of the company. Some had sat in a depot all night being unable to find rooms. One train, coming in from North Carolina, had tipped over and three cripples from the wTCck helped to fill the conveyance. I felt as if life hung by a thread as I gazed at their bruised heads and the crutches by which they must be supported while "domg the cen- temiial." CHAPTER VII. ^^ATURDAY mommg, September 32d, I arose before six o'clock (^^ but owng to a want of appetite, caused by excitement, ate but sparmgly of breakfast in the large dining haU of the Park View House. We thought we were the early birds to catch the first omnibus out to the Exhibition grounds, one mile distant, but we found several heavily laden hacks and numerous burdened street cars had already jiroceeded us. "The Exhiljition buikhngs are located in Fairmount Park at the head of Gkard Avemie, which leads directly from the heart of the city to the main entrance. The grounds embrace 236 acres with an average elevation of over one 28 t\v1':lvk states wn a K'iN(;i>o>r. liuiulrod feet iibov.^ the a'ljacent Schuylkill. The PeniiNylvania and Readin^f Railroad each have iin immense depot adjoiuing the grounds, and as the tracks of these roads connect with eveiy other line enteiing' Philadel])hia. \isitors aniving by rail are landed at the gates ■^vithout change of cars. There are seventeen entrances to the exhibition grounds. The fii-st of the buildings reached com- ing from the city is the main building, costing one million six hun- dred thousand dollars, and is one thousand eight hundred and seventy-six ft^et long, and four hundred and sixty-four feet wide, covering an area of nearly twenty-one and one-half acres. Towere seventy-five feet high rise at each corner of the building." In con- structing the building thei-e were used eight million pounds of iron, besides glass and wood. In order to see the sights in this wonderful structure eleven and one -third miles must be traversed. The total cost of the Centennial Exhibition is estimated at eight million five hundred thousand dollars. There are seventy-five acres of ground under cover within the main inclosure, being an excess of twenty-five acres over the Vienna Exposition grounds. The last named Exposition exceeded this in cost by one million three hundred and fifty thousand dollar.-:. Ten millions of visitors were estimated as attending the Philadelphia Exposition, while the attendance at Vienna, was seven million two hundred and fifty- four thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven. There were seventy thousand exhibitors at Vienna and sixty thousand at Philadelphia. My pereonal experience at tliis gi-and .show that can come but once in a life time, is as follows: On reaching the inclosing fence wliich is three miles in extent, we entei-ed at one of the seventeen entrance gates. Additional entrance gates are provided for the exclusive use of employees and those entitled to free admission. It being- Saturday the admission fee was but twenty-five cents. On enter- ing the main building I could not repress a sigh born of the thought — is one hie of sufficient duration to master so prodigious a sight? but, my dear readers do not be alarmed for I am not going to recount a millionth part of what I saw. No tongue has the loquacity to utter praises, no pen the mightiness of portrayal, no one mind the comprehensiveness to grasp the intricacies of this wonderful cond)ination of beauty, utility, gorgeousness and gran- deur. The .Tapanese contributors to the i)anorania seemed to have Jinticipated the hot season by sending fans of ;ill shapes and designs, which first attracted my attention. I find the first memorandum TREASURES OF TIIK X'RAL MOUNTAINS. 29 on my note-book was made while I was sojourning- in Nonvay, ami is in commemoration of the marriage of a Norwegian coui)le. The figures were so true to life that I supposed myself standing beside breathing creatures, tiJl I became aware that they were the center of attraction in that vicinity, and a closer scrutiny revealed their inanimateness. Then there were Swedish groupes, one represent- ing a mother pleading with the father for their daughter's lover, who stood Ijashfully in the corner awaiting- the result of the inter- cession. In Australia was a gold monument representing thirty- five million dollars. I noted a wingless bird from New Zealand, that existed before the island was inhalnted by man. Then there was the Moa bu-d now extinct — a coin twenty-six hundred years old — stones from Solomon's palace — crocodiles and stuffed animals of all descriptions. I saw a diamond necklace worth thirty-five thousand dollars — an adjustable sleeping apartment resembling a trunk, shutting up in a very small compass, and costing tw^o hun- dred dollars ; a bed-stead seemingly wrought of fine gold, worth twelve thousand dollars ; a small Malachite ta,Vile, price two thousand four hundred dollars. I take the i'ollowing description of this one from a little tract that was given me while I was admiring the beauty of the tables of green and blue. "Malachite, Green Carbon- ate of Copper, emerald-green, hghb and dark green. Found only in the Ural mountains, in the mines to a depth of six hundred feet. These mines being under water, have not been worked since the last twenty years. Lapis Lazuli. Azurestone, Ultramarine, Lazure blue in all degi-ees of the height, found in granite and granular lime stone in Sibena, at the Baikal lake, and in Bucharic. The price thereof has enormously risen in the last years up to one hundred rubles per pound. Ultramarine, the most precious color is made thereof. It is used for inlaid work and jewelry. Porphyry is found at Tazilck, in the Ural mountains, and at Olonetzk in Northern Russia. The above are specifically Russian stones, which at public request, have been described. There ai-e still the Siber- ian Amethyst and smoky topaz, wliich are the most precious and beautitul. These stones can be ground and cut only v/ith emery and diamond dust, and it requires an amount of patience, only to 1)6 found in a Russian workman, and tlie manufacture thereof may well be tenned one of the most ungrateful occupations. This is perhaps, why there is no competition. Among others we have exhibited a pair of small Nephirte vases, the grinchug ot which ;)0 T\VKI,VK STATKS AM) A KIXCDONf. ■jlonc riHiuin':! livi' iiujiiths tiiiio." I scaively knew which to admire most, the tables of l)hie or green, but their prices put them all beyond my reaeh. Tliere was a mantle-piece of Malachite inlaid with .hisper and other precious stones, valued at six thoa- sand five hundred dollars, jjarge Malachite vases in Etruscan and Roman styles, worth four thousand five hundred dollars; a piece of Malacliite weighing one thousand and eighty pounds, whose value was four thousand eight hundred and sixty dollars. Tiiere were a pair of vases of Lapis Lazuli at two thousand dollars. It would require a palatial residence of uuicli spaciousness to be adorned with these mannnoth vases without the ornaments appearing bur- densome. There were various tables with solid gilded bronze legs, valued from one hundred and twenty to two thousand four hundred dollars ; also a variety of clocks, albums, jewelry A:c., all from Hoessrick & Woortiel of St. Petersburg, Russia. Tliere was a Spanish building so real, one might fancy himself in the streets of Spain. "Eg.vpt, the oldest nation in the world, sends Soodan its morning gi-eeting to the youngest nation,"' were the words engra- ven over the entrance to that ancient lookurg structure which be- spake the Bible and the days of the IsraeUtes. What shall 1 say of the display of porcelain, glassware, a suite of rooms elegantly furnished, laces, silks, velvets and furs, (Russia excelling in the three articles last named) — historical n^'presentations from the Scrii^tures both in sculpture and painting. A groupe consisting of a Laplander, vdie and baby, arrayed in i-obes of thick fur and just esconscing themselves in the farther corner of their sledge, to which was attached a fine reindeer; also another scene, "the death of the reindeer," were very impressive. There was a painting of Christ fresh from the manger, Avith the attendants gazing in wonder, it appeared to me, at his astounding size and agility. 1 should have judged it to be a picture of a child two years of age, squirming from the bath, but there was really beautiful statuary portraying Our Master from his infancy to his crucifixion. There were large pictures deft fingers had formed of highly colored worsteds, that rivaled oil paintings in their beauty and completeness. There were quilts whose silk foundations were one solid mass of rich em- broidery of garlands of flowers in manifold designs. This, our first day was spent in carefully and attentively canvassing a great por- tion of the main building. Though the pouring rain threatened a damper on our amusements and spoiled our good clothes at the VISIONS von TiiK cuiuors. ?>1 outset, we were cheerlul ;uiiitl the difficulties, and at nooutnne sought the "Dauy" where we were refreshed with a warm sul;)stan- tial dinner. When we were under shelter of the mahi building, the rain fell with no unmusical sound. We ventured out long enough to take a three niiles ride around the grounds on the narrow guage, double track steam railway. The car si-ats were dripping with ^^■ater that had beaten in from the open sides of the coaches, and many of the passengers sat on the liack of long seats that ran across the width of the car. In fact the cars were very much like the open street cars in Chicago. We registered at the Illinois State building, which was a commodious cottage, comfort- ably furnished for the accommodation of the citizens of that State. It was the only place where I enjoyed the warmth of a fire while 1 was in Philadelphia. Our postmaster, whose office was in that building, v>'as one of the most gentlemanly officials I ever mot with. The people generally volunteered information to each other, and the policemen were extremely courteous, fulfilling the scriptural adjuration to ''be patient and long suffering." Tney answered all questions with dignity and politeness, humored the querulous, guided the lost to ]ilaces of safety and guarded well the rich treas- ures entrusted to their care, rigidly insisting that the motly crowd refram from any manipulations of the dazzling stores so temptingly arrayed, as to in\dte touch as well as sight. Being neither a, man nor a minor I was not attracted by the mineral ore only in the ex- tent of display which was vast. It was a splendid sight after as- cending the spiral stairway, to look down upon the objects animate and inanimate; the former moving with slow tread that the eye might be enabled to encompass all the loveliness; the latter pre- senting a combination of bright and sombre hues enchantuig to the beholder. When weary we esconced ourselves in the easy chairs and divans placed there for our use, and watched these children of curiosity gratify their love for the beautiful as they marched along, pausing here and there for a closer examination of some one article more remarkable than another. When thirsty, our parched throats gratefully received the cooling draught from a magnificent soda tountain. Our first day at the Exposition is ended and too tired for expression we "hang on by the eyebrows," as some one expressed it, to a crowded street-car Avhile the rain deluges the occupants of the platform. Fastidiousness may as well be laid aside in such a place. No exceptions are made in favor of race, 32 TWKl.VK STATES AND A KINGDOM. color or ])rovious foiidition, i)i a stret't-oar where humanity is so compact that none but a conductor capable of materializing and de-materiali/.ijig ad libitum, dare effect an entrance. CHAPTER VIII. ^^UNDAY morninor, September twenty-fourth, I awoke and ^^^ found the vain still i^onring- which bespoke for tourists a dismal day. We were told it had rained for two weeks. If you have ever been far from home in a strange city, waiting for the sun to sliine and waiting in vain, you will give me your sympathy during the trials of that Sabbath, in Philadelphia. I fear I must acknowledge home -sickness, teai-s and loss of appetite which sig- naled a famine when once I'ecovered. My companions were very kind to me but there came no rift in the clouds that had settled o'er my spirits. We took a dreary walk through monotonous streets v/here the houses wore all brick and approached by flights of white marble steps, and in dark nights when their numbers can- not be seen I am sure their occupants must be puzzled to find theu* individual homes if no friendly street-lamp tui'ns informant to the belated citizen. I am thankful when tlie weary day is done, a day so tedious to me yet to the citizens of New York City, remarkable for the blowing up of Hell Gate and I was told that many of the dwellers nearest the scene of the explosion, removed througli fear of its disastrous nwults. The explosion was under water and raised a sheet of that fluid three acres in extent to the height oi" fifty feet. Monday morning finds us on our waj' to the Exposition grounds. We visit the Art Gallery also known as Memorial Hall, a fii-e-proof building, costing $1,500,000, and designed to i-emain as a permanent memorial of the nations' first Centennial Anniver- sary. The pictures were beyond my descriptive powers and I can only say that I saw " Temptation, Adam and Eve in Paradise," "Samson and Delilah," '" Prometheous bound, devoured by vult- ures," " Eve with Cain and .\l)el." The statuary was lovely but THK A'Oirv: OK GAI>ILEO. "iT MOVES, IT MOVES." 38 I must express my opinion upon both sculpture and painting as to the lack of drapery surrounding- the cha acters represented. Ignorant country people, (if you so wish to designate them) having few advantages, are all the more acute to discern an impropriety if there be one, and this class of people not yet having had their native modesty blunted by famOiar contact with the fashionable world who liscense naked picture painting, are shocked at behold- ing the human form on exliibition in so puljlic a place, devoid of even the primitive clothing invented by Adam and Eve. These pictures are adorned ( V) with all the reality of life, and come upon one's vision before he is aware of their proximity, and for a moment he is led to believe some poor lunatic has evaded the vigilance of her keepers and thrust herself before his eyes. If to be fashionable is to lay aside our decency, and, in a mixed crowd, such as thronged the Arti Gallery, gaze unblushingly upon such artistic eftbrts, I for one would wish to be left to the obscurity of the counti-y where in solitariness only the clear streams reflect the beauty of the inno- cent maiden. There was the statue of Bismai-k, costing four thou- sand dollars in gold, — the statue of the Daughter of Zion, lamenting over the ruins of Jerusalem, and the Youth of Michael Angelo. The entrance to this hall was grand with statuarj'. In the Annex was an oil painting of "Galileo before the tribunal of Spain." On leaving this building we call at the i^ostotlice from which I extract two long letters, and the further pleasures of the daj'^ are gilded with the love-light of home reflected by so precious a talisman. While I rest on the easy couch in the elegant parlor of the Illinois State Builihng, and listen to the music of the piano, I muse that though I am suiTounded by the grandest sight I ever expect to see. a j»/f<'s«f"/e/- one is in prospective — a sight of husband and home. We next enter Machinery Hall, covering about fourteen acres and costing eight hundred thousand dollars. There were displayed the various sewing machines and their elegant stitching; a specimen of Cole's chamiingly executed my name on a ground work of black cloth. Dummy's were arrayed in costumes comparing the ditfer- ence in the styles of 1776 and 1S76 — the ckess of the former century being a green satin under-skirt and light satin over-dress richly emliroidered, and the latter time was represented by a figure in light pink satin. The basques to both costumes were similar, and pointed in front. There were dolls clothed in "i)uii)le and fine linen" of all sizes, and apparently of all ages. I noticed a mon- 34 TWKLVK STATKS AXD A KIXODOM. strous propeller wheel and luiicliines for ])riiiti]if;' — trains of cars resting on rails of sinning steel, and here in the center of the build- ing was found the mannnoth Corliss engine, the largest in the world, of fourteen hundi't^l horse power, capable of driving the entire shafting necessary to nni all the machinery exhibits. In the Annex was a tank one hundred and sixty feet long by sixty wide, with a depth of ten feet. At the south end of this tank was a water-fall thirty-five feet high by forty wide, supplied from the tank by the pumps on exhibition. A small l)oat was moored on the sui-face of the water. We saw the first ])i4nting press placed in comparison with those in present use. Silk ties and suspenders were being wov«ni ; pins manufactured and stuck at the rate of one hundred and eighty thousand per day. Saw envelopes, brick and shmgles in jirocess of formation, and a knitting machine operated by turning a crank. It was knitting a stocking of red and black yarn. We next visited the United States building, erected by the United States Government at a cost of $60,000. It covers about two acres. There we got on the war track and scouted inanimate Sioux Chiefs — Red Cloud in indescribable paint and feathers — Esquimaux — Indian idols — a Makah Indian, a female Indian skel- eton or mummy — a wigwam — a miniature Patent Office — torpedo boat guided Ijy electricity, and boats of all descriptions — seamen of the United States Navy — oiu- own soldiers in blue, so lifelike yet lifeless — furs worn by Dr. Kane in the Arctic region, also a bust of the daring explorei- — also soldiers wath the uniform of the Continen- tal infantry 1776 — soldiers representing Morgan's rifles — a gi-een light-house — a whaling vessel — a lobster shell in full dress — wdld animals apparently ready to devour the intruder, but harmless as kittens, in their inanimateness — sculls and endless curiosities of Indian manufacture — a sjian of farm horses haniessed and ready for the field, with mild eyes and marks of hard lal>or upon their breasts — also saw the head of a whale from the Atlantic Ocean — a musk ox — an Indian dug-out or canoe — a squaw's water-proof, made of the intestines of the sea Hon — also the lai'gest pipe in the world, costing two hundred and fifty dollars, and can not be dupli- cated. I think it was made of ivoiy. It was coveted by eveiy masculine lover of the weed, no doubt. Next we marched into the Kansas and Colorado bu Iding, which was ingeniously decorated with grains. Tliere was a bell constructed of cereals and designed to imitate the old bt-U at Independence Hall. Grain strung upon BAKED HKA>fS AND JOnNNY-CAKE. 35 wire, hung in graceful festoons like some rare fi-inge. There was a very high p^yramid of luscious apples— a white butfalo, stuffed— a case of birds Idlled and preserved by one woman's hand. Wild animals without lite, stood upon a craggy mountainside and might well engage the attention of the hunter. A real, live rattle snake lent a charm to the scene. (The secret of the charm was, in its being securely enclosed in a box.) The Woman's Pavilion was next explored. It covers nearly an acre of ground, and cost thirty thousand dollars, paid by the voluntary contributions of the women of the United States. It is said to contain "everything women make that is worth showing." It did not quite meet my expecta- tions, though the display was all fine, but it possessed no entirely new, striking feature, if we except perhaps, a patent dish-washer, which after carefully viewing, decided me to adhere to the old way. There was carpet weaving — a box containing turtles and bugs made of leather by Miss A. Williamson. The New England kitchen was desigiied to illustrate the New England kitchen of the present time as compared with that of one hundred years ago. It was made of logs and filled with old fashioned arti- cles, and the lady attendants were in ancient dress. There were huge books scarcely legible with their queer "f's" in lieu of "s." Old spinning wheels that were the pride of the hearts of our grandmothers, also a folding chair, two hundred years old. The odor of baked beans and "Johnny cake" always drew a crowd in and around that building. Hop vines shaded the small windows and a few homely vegetables grew within a small enclosure, an apology for a garden. It required the constant care of a police- man to maintain quiet at the gateway of tliis humble cottage. Mr. and Mrs. B left the grounds at five o'clock to call on friends, and I felt qmte homelike to be thus thrown on my own resources. I took the cars for a ride ai-ound the grounds. At that late hour but few were in them, and the view was splendid. The track be- ing circular, one can see his own engine curving first to the right, then to the left. They seemed.to manag-e to have the trains meet, when the train that I was on was going up grade, as it were, and the approachijig engine had the appearance of colliding with that of our own, but we felt no shock and received no hurt. The sun was at that di-eamy height that it seemed half wishful yet half sad to bid us good night. The neatly kept grounds wore their loveHest aspect, and the short green grass and blooming flowers 36 TWKI.VK STATES AM) A KIXf;DO.\r. and sparkliii--: touiitaiiis and i^mootli lakes all seemed to be wooing a fina,l jjlanei^ from this day kinof, and shed their attractions as an enticement lor his return, and strove to make this parting- most regretful . When my ride was ended I sought the assistance of a policeman to see me safely on board the Girard Avenue car. Everything on wheels was packed full. I had to stand all the way home, but we were a jolly set. Indeed there was the utmost cordiality expressed between entii-e strang-ers during my whole journey, and all seemed honest people like myself. We were startled at seeing a span of horses attached to a barouche, run- ning away, in Fairmount Park. 1 did not hear of the result, whether the coachman succeeded in getting the fiery steeds under his control, or whether more lives were sacrificed on the altar of pleasure. I reached the Park View Hotel which is not far from Cxirard College, at dark and passed the evening alone in my room, writing to the lonely ones at home, after listening to some verj- fair music executed by some parties from Beloit, Wisconsni. Young America was well rei^resented in the person of a lad of some eight- een summers, I should judge. Praises were lavished upon him on every hand, and being the pet of his numerous fi-iends, he was consequently in great danger of being spoiled. His voice, a perfect contralto, 1 could have better appreciated had it belonged to a miss of tender years, but believing in the "eternal fitness of things" 1 could not but think he was out of his sphere to thus usurp the pro- vince of the many young misses at his side, who seemed anxious to render their share of the vocal entertainment. They were well- bred little folks, and were having " such a lovely time " as they expressed it. Happy youth ! devoid of care, with no thonght of .stocks and bonds and mortgages ^vith interest due; but no doubt your fond parents take as much pleasure in anticipating your en- joyments as do you in participating in the pleasures their labor and forethought have provided the means to enjoy. COSTLY COMFORT. 87 CHAPTER IX. kN onr amval at the grounds Tuesda^- mornino', September, Jy '26th, we again visit tlie Main Building, and examine a bath- tub, worth two hundred dollars, lined with slate. A looking-glass costing one thousand dollars, with a frame of cut g'lass, thoug'h a beauty in itself, reflected the images of the passersby as nature made them, -wdthout lending- any of its own charms to form or featui-e. In the Hawaiian department was lava, which when burn- ing, must certainly be beheld with consternation. There was a cloak made of the bark of the bread-fruit tree, trimmed with bells; a hat made of the arrow-root plant. In Japan was a bedstead worth twenty-five thousand dollars, made of small pieces of various kinds of wood, taking twenty persons five years to construct it. In Austria were slippers made of glass. There were two pieces of statuary being- a representation of "liide and seek." It rained for two hours this day, and we reviewed the Main Building pretty thoroughly. We were over-taken by a dear friend, Mrs. D , and another lady and her husband, from W- , our starting point. We visit the House of Public Comfort. Things were ex- tremely comfortable there for cash, but without a. stuffed pocket- book one might as well seek comfort in cheaper quarters. I judged the countiy was pros]ierous, as that buUding always held a crowd who certainly paid for what they received, as I realized from exper- ience after purchasing one lunch there. The quality of the food was par excellent, but the quantity sent me away hungiy after expending enough money for a substantial dinner at any first-class hotel. We took a survey of the foreign buildings and bazaar's, in the afternoon. I am inclined to be skeptical as to the genuineness of the Jerusalem trinkets, exposed to view by foreign looking per- sonages dressed in Oriental costumes, who might have been ordi- nary Jews, residents of our own countiy, for ought I know. The 88 TWELVE STATES AM) A KIN(;D().U. Holy Land is a , and I alighted at the door of Mrs. D 's stojjping place, in time for breakfast. As I sat beside her husband at the table, he made the homely though trite remark that "chickens come home to roost." Truly I was as glad of their company a thousand miles from home and partook of their hospit- ality as freely as it I had been seated at their own board under their home roof, where I am ever welcome. There was a long table filled with W friends, among them our pastor, and we had a meri-y meal. We all repaired to the Centennial grounds for a day's further enjoyment. Just outside the grounds there was on exhi- SIEGE OF PARIS. 89 bition, the wonderful "Sieg-e of Paris;" which we proceeded to explore and were well satisfied with our investment of fifty centSr after becoming- familiar with its nn'steries naiTated to us Ijy a gen- tleman constantly in waiting, and who repeated the story every half hour. The picture of the siege was four hundred and eighty feet long and fifty-five feet high, and it was sixty-six feet from one stand point to the scene represented. It took thirty artists fifteen months to pamt it. After depositing another half dollar at the self-registering tum-stile we were once more surrounded by the magic of the past, "We enter Agricultural Hall, whose green roof covers ten and a quarter acres, at a cost of three hundred thousand dollars. There are fruits from all parts of the world, quantities of which were canned whole, and could not fail to tempt the poorest appetite. There was a pavilion made of cotton, and its pure white pillars resembled a mass of snow flakes, which the first glance of the sun might lay low. There was a span of splendi'l bay horses with shining harness, attached to a reaper with nothing factitious, unnatural to betray the handiwork of man. Horticultural Hall, constructed of stone, brick, glass and iron, has one and a half acres under cover, at a cost of three hundred thousand dollars. There we Sciw sugar cane Irom Havana-, the Musk Dago or Sago, the largest plant in the hall — the date pahn from Asia — the Talipot palm from Ceylon — an oriramental stand made of boquet-holders of satin in all colors — a stand of dried natural flowers — Terra-cotta works; in fact this building had an air of neatness, coolness and quiet that, to the visitors through the intensely hot season, must have been a very elysium. Here one might visit the tropics with impunity from wild beasts or embrace of the boa-constrictor; might sit under the shade of the palm without fear of its being up- rooted by the trunk of the elephant; but though the poisonous in- sect and its venomous sting were absent, one might not handle the delicate, tropical plants, nor so much as pluck one tiny leaf from their fragile stems. I separate from my companions at night and return to my hotel. I am assigned a smaller room, about the size of a clothes-ijress, but it appears clean and is cheerful with gas- light. Mrs. B has learned me to call for fresh bed-linen, and on an examination of the sheets, I find that this is a case that will warrant me in can-ying out her instructions, and I ring for the chambermaid. A prompt compliance wath ray order puts me in possession of a pair of sheets, that in dampness could not be ex- 40 T\VF.I-VF, STATKS AND A KINr.DOM. celled. 1 eall for hot water and warm up internally before tiyin<>' their freshness. T have no encomiums for Fairmouiit water works on the Schuylldll river, from which Philadelphia receives its supply of water. To me the water is useless for diinking puri)oses, even after it is boiled. Some of the ladies told me they had never drank as much beer as they had quaffed since their amval in the city, being driven to the intempei-ance by the bad water. The example is a bad one truly, but I am compelled by necessity to follow it, but trust my masculine acquaintances will not take my actions as a precedent from which to be guided. CHAPTER XI. I^HURSDAY, Septemljer 28th, is Pennsylvania's day at the >-iX Centennial, and having slept like a. lark the previous night, the humid sheets notwithstanding, I am prepared for early rising and a further investigation of the whereabouts of my kinsmen, which search proves fruitless as before, and the street cars get so filled I am debarred from joining Mrs. D. and her party, as on the morning pre\'ious, and after a four miles circuit I reach the Cen- tennial grounds, where already a vast crowd is congregated. I first seek the Woman's Pavilion, where, guarded bj' two police- men, is exhibited the "Butter Bust, by Mrs. Caroline S. Brooks, repi'esenting the dreaming lolanthe, King Kene's daughter. This ingenious design set as a X)rotoplast for her artistic sisters, was bar- ren of bovine suggestions, and none but a modem scientist could have detected lactescence as the primordial in its creation. The day being made a national holiday, the grounds were early filled with processions of various orders, that of the Soldier's Orphan's, drawng tears to my eyes as I thought of the battle fields strewn with lifeless fathers who once held to their warm, lo^dng hearts, these children that marched before me. The caliope whistled "Hold th(.' fort." while th(; bells chimed the Marseilles hvmn, and IIETROSPEC'TION. 41 amid tliriUing- music the Governor of Pennsylvania was escorted to the State buildino:, where he held his reception. The State build- ings are in a row, some of them, especially Jlichigan, ornate with lattice work, and all present what is most prized by the tourist, a hospitable apjiear'ance. There is such a concourse of people (excell- ing in number any previous day) that it is utterly impossible to see an.v-thuig inside the building, and the utmost efforts of the fuming police are powerless to protect the greensward from the tread of the invaders, intent on being the first to welcome the noted personages as under escort of the militia, headed by brass bands, they appear on the grounds. 1 pass the forenoon in wandering around, seeking some familiar face, but nm rewarded only with the sight of the countenance of one of my neighbors in W . Tired of all the pomp and display, 1 seat myself on the platform near one of the en- trances to the Main building and take a last, retrospective gaze o'er the panorama that a week's stay has made familiar and dear to me. Unless my longevity equal that of our primeval ancestors, this must necessarily be my last centennial, and it was mete that 1 devote the closing monuents in celebrating this my first and final centenary anniversary of our prosperous nation, to solemn thoughts bom of recent communion with the strange, idealistic things of the past, and the realism of the present closely cemented by the tardy but certain elements of progression. British India, in Asia, over- coming the distance of eleven thousand five hundred and thirty-five mUes, has offered her tribute to our glory and that of her own, in bringing rare products of the Torrid zone, to swell the mass of curi- osities here congregated. Australia, the land of the convict, sends her wonders a distance of ten thousand two hundred and sixty miles, and places them at our command. Russia, exceeding all other countries in her extent of 7,2'27,870 square miles, excels in her display of costly silks and velvets and rich furs. China, with her exceeding population of 477,500,000 souls, has not been sparing of her grotesque manufactures which are so lavishly spread before our vision, we may almost estimate one article to each of her inhabi- tants. The Hawaiian Islands, with a minimum population of 62,959, are by no means in the back-ground with their exhibits of gorgeous plumage and articles of incomi^arable texture. Our own beloved United States, though but8,6o4,797 square miles in extent, with a population of 45,816,000, requires the greatest number of square feet (189,2ol,) for the display of her wealth and grandeur, 6 42 TWELVE STATES AND A KINGDOM. which have ])ecn accumulating for a hundred years, and of which there can be no diminution in the centuiy that is but opening up her infancy amid prosperity and peace ■with all nations. This Cen- tennii^l Exhibition opened with imposing ceremonies, May 10th 1876, with an attendance of one hundred thousand people, the President of the United States, his cabinet and other high officials, together with Dom Pedro, Emperor of Brazil, and his Empress, be- ing among the number. It closed, October 10th of the same year, and the total cost is estimated at $S,.")()0,000. Upon the toil and trials incident to the perfecting of so grand a scheme, who shall pliice an estimate? We were informed that the Main building had sold for one million eight hundred thousand dollars. The amassing of these treasures from the remotest ends of the inhabitable earth; the preparing of a place suitable for their reception ; the adorning of the grounds with costly fountains and statuary; the gracUng of seven miles of roads and foot-paths, and broidering them with red- olant flowers; the constructing of bridges and summer-houses — all this required abundant means, unsurpassed perseverance, Christian patience and a master mind at the helm with efficient, obedient subordinates ever ready to do his bidding. If there be one person more than another who originated this nation's festivity of a half year's diu-ation, that has pi-oven so successful, let his name be set in our memories and cherished through the vista of coming ages. The youngest in this generation cannot hope to be his successor. The new born infant of to-day, perchance, a hundred years hence in the decrepitude of old age, may hobble to a renewal of like splendors on these ver}' grounds; but the intellect to-day not yet developed to an appreciation of this scene will then be too enfeebled to rightly esti- mate the value of the treasures of the next centuiy 's gathering, and thus not possessing the vigor of ripe manhood will lose alike the charm coimected with the celebration of both eras. Farewell to this people whose bodies terrestrial the coming years will convert into dust, but whose souls will live on amid beauties celestial. Farewell to the antiquities left for the admii-ation of a future gen- eration. Farewell to all this peiishable matter that must needs change its form, not one particle of which can ever be irretrievably lost. All this beauty will decay. The life of the fountains will be sapped by the recondite workings of nature. The marble statue is no less cold than will be the hand of the sculptor years hence. The genius of the artist will have perished long ere the colors of his pictures become dininied by that great etfacer — time; but tli£ artist's power though lost to earth, may be quickenetl by heavenlj^ realities that here were but imaginings. All the industrious hands that have helped to rear these delicate structures of glass or raise the solid walls of granite and iron, will one day lie idle awaiting their future work appointed by their heavenly master. Blessed heaven with its i)repared mansions where e United States Navy Yard, is located on the Dela- ware river, at the foot of Federal street, and encloses twelve acres. Xt one of the docks is the frigate Constitution, "Old Ironsides," ETIIKOPIAN SPLENDOR. 45 tlie most renowned vessel of the American Nav;>'. This yard will be sold as soon as League Island is ready for occupancy. It is a low tract of land of six hundred acres, at the confluence of the Del- aware and iSchuylldll rivers, and was presented by the city to the United States Government, on condition of its being converted into a great Naval depot." On leaving the C'entennial grounds I took the street cars for a ride about town. Visited Independence Hall, which was so thronged with sight seers, but little could be seen, and certainly nothing examined. I saw the old bell which was first nmg after the passage of the Declaration, but which ■will never more ring out its clear tones for liberty. I stood in the east room where met the Continental Congress, and on the fourth of July, 1776, adopted the Declaration of Independence which was publicly proclaimed from the stejjs on the same day, I am told the room presents the same appearance now as it did then. In Congress Hall in the second story, Washington delivered his farewell address. Independence Square, in the rear of Independence Hall, is inclosed by a solid brick wall, and contains some majestic trees. It was ^vithin this inclosure that the Declaration of Independence was first pubhcly read, July 4th, 177fi. Washington Square, diagonally opposite, is celebrated for containing nearly eveiy tree that will grow in this climate, whether indigenous or not. As I rode along the streets of this great city I saw many lovely homes, and no doubt my interest would have been enhanced had I known the no- toriety connected with them. While I was in a car drawn by one horse, it was hailed by a black gentleman, i ! a suit of black broad- cloth and a ruffled shirt front, with dazzling diamond embellish- ments. He held in his arms a chubby baby, which presented an aspect of snowy whiteness, with the exception of its round face and thmpled fists. Its robes were rich witii embroidery, and a filmy lace cap hid but partially its curluig wool . A few tightly twisted locks escaped and covered its low, shming forehead. The wife and mother was arrayed in rustling silk, with wide white ribbons dang- ling a,-la-mode from a gaudily arranged hat which set out her black profile in alto-relievo. She held by the hand a bright little miss of some four summers, with an o] aque visage, the counterpart of her mother's, and bits of muslin, laces and softest elve clothed her cap-a-pie. Their delicate lace nose-blowers were heavily perfumed with musk, and my partiality for that dehghtful peifume was then and there completely destroyed. Evidently this was an aristocratic 46 TWELVE STATKS AXD A KINODO.M. off-shoot from one of the escaped F. F. Vs. Thouj^-h "fine feath- ers make fine 1 tints,"' yon can not make a beautiful white crow out of a black one. 1 am decided in my inherent skepticism on two points; first, as to any natural loveliness in the negro race, and secondly, as to there being l)eautiful Indian maidens born to the noble red men of the forest. Though 1 would not hann a hair of their heads, that the Great Spirit hath numbered, I must ever be a living prototype of Hai'riet Beecher Stowe's "Miss Oiihelia," and gatlier my robes aljout me when approached by one of the enfran- chised race. Near the Zoological Uardens 1 left the car, and walk- ed along a nan-ow, quiet footpath, that I would not have believed existed in a city of Philadelphia's magnitude. I reached Girard Avenue bridge across the Schuylkill river, and what a scene met ray gaze compared to the isolated nook I had but just explored. With the steam cars winding around the hill in the distance, with boats sailing on the navigable waters beneatli my feet, with the street cars and vehicles crossing the bridge upon which I stood, and the park dotted with thousands ot pedestrians, and barouches drawn by prancing steeds — surely every means for locomotion was spread before me, and I chose to exercise the perambulatory muscles of the human frame, that, guided by the will, I might pause a sufiicient length of time to take in all the grandeur about me — yet, some- times pressed by the crowd, I was borne along over the dangerous street crossings, or, perhaps absorbed in my wonderous gazing, 1 for a moment was forgetfid of the hurrying throng and stood alone, supported by some friendly railing or convenient ]amp-]J0st. But 1 was among strangers, with the utmost freedom of feeling and action, and if any secretly adjudged me insane they would never take the trouble to incarcerate me in one of the many asylums, with which Philadelphia abounds. And thus I strode on till my room was gained, where I threw myself upon my couch to collect the confused inass of ideas which my afternoon's peregrination had awakened. Magnificent fire-works, surpassing all former empyreal displays, were announced for the evening's amusement, on the sum- mit of George's Hill in Fairmount Pai'k. Being disappointed in a masculine escort, I saw only a few rockets from the parlor window of the Park View House. But 1 am gUul to escape the jam conse- quent on an attendance, and with a long, epistolary assurance from liome that 1 am resmembered and thnt though "distance may pait UK nothing can sever, hearts that like ours are united forever," 1 POLICEMKN VS. PICK-POCKETS. 47 seek early the land of dreams, and by so doing am rewurded with a sound mind and rested body, on the morning of the 29th of Sep- tember, which ushers in the day that is noted for my departure from the home of the Quakers. CHAPTER Xlir. ^ had an unintentional view of the city that morning, that I ^^ was not in a frame of mind to appreciate. The baggage-man at the hotel having checked my trunk to one depot and directed me to another, necessitated my waiting at what is called the Cen- tennial Depot, for a j^eriod of about three hours, expecting mo- mentarily the arrival of my baggage. After the departure of three trains for New York City 1 could endure the delay no longer and mounted on the seat of an Express wagon, (whose altitude was not to my liking and the vehicle too unpretentious by far), I was conveyed back to the hotel where I interviewed the proprietor in as strong terms as became a lady tourist. I made known my wants which were in etfect that a horse and carriage be placed at my command instanter and an immediate search for that trunk insti- tuted — , that it could not of its own volition take itself out of the city and if it were yet within the radius of the one hundi'ed and twenty-four square miles of Philadelphia I proposed to recover it. A poor horse that hadn't been permitted to seek his quarters till three o'clock in the morning, (being on duty all the previous night, conveying its share of the dense throng that witnessed the fire works, back to the city), dragged a sickly looking light wagon before the door, with an oil-cloth top insufficient to protect ought but the seat, the capacious rear being intended for the storing of baggage. Into this carry-all I disposed myself, seated beside a. sleepy looking youth who had shared the last night's vigils of this " heavey " old horse, and to whom nature in the beginning of the boy's creation, had allotted two eyes, but one having become im- paired by stress of vision or other accident, he had altogether the 48 TWELVK STATES AND A KINGDOM. appearance of a one-sided, down-trodden, oppressed individual, and jndgin cross the Delaware river. Here Washington won his famous victory over the Hessians, December 26th 1776. Newark, New Jersey, nine miles from New York City, contains one hundred thou- sand inhabitants. The Highlands of New Jersey are pointed out to me. On reaching? Jersey City, I concluded it must be consid- erable of a place, as the cars were being emptied of their live freight veiy rapidly, and among them my French companion. As he arose to leave, it struck my mind that perhaps 1 ought to follow the crowd, and I asked him if that was the place for me to alight. He said it was, and the manner in which I hustled my traps together would be an advanced lesson for snails to take in the rudiments of speediness. I was in the predicament of "my son John" in the nursery rhyme, who had "one boot off and one boot on," neverthe- less I landed on the platform, in loto, and though not a specimen of tidiness, I was at least presentable, and kept my eye on the white hat of the Frenchman, lest I be led to the wrong feny. My ideas of a ferry were rather confused, and extremely crude. I had never seen but one ferry boat, and that resembled a raft, and skum over the river amid the creaking and grmding of a rusty old chain on pulley's. 1 knew where there was a ferrj' there was water, but not a drop was in sight. I noticed the passengers one by one dart through a narrow opening where a fat man stood at a little window and as they passed they gave him money, which he accepted with- out thanks. He only asked me for two cents, which I gave him for charity's sake, and wondered what misfortune he had met with to be dependent on the public generosity. His corpulency suggest- ed a bloated bond holder come to grief, and I half wislied I had my pennies back. While these thoughts were flying through my mind I had been following the throng, that rushed pell-mell for what seemed to me like a covered bridge open only at one end. Horses and wagons stood in the center of the supposed bridge, and people walked along at the sides and were lost to my view. Presently bridge, people, horses and all moved off, and I saw water beaten to a foam by some marine monster, but its calmness was soon re- gained, and I was initiated into the mysteries of a first-class ferry, and while I stood watching the performance I was made to under- stand that I had missed the boat, and would be obliged to wait five minutes for another. I stepped into the waiting room, and when the next boat touched the wharf I boarded it with as much pom- posity as I could summons on a short, notice, and walking to tlie 7 50 TWELVE STATES AND A KINdDOM. front I took a seat with the coolness of an Atlantic whaler setting out on his first sea voyage. Our boat getting in the track of a large steamer, gave a few undulatory motions that threatened an upheaval of my scanty breakfast oi' coll'ee and doughnuts at the Centannial depot, V)ut a few vigorous swallows turned the tide, and I recovered my equanimity. Safely across the Hudson river, I took a horse-car through New York till I reached East river, where I encountered another ferry boat which landed me at Brooklyn. A short ride on the street cars, and I am tremblingly standing at the door of No. 47, Rush Street, Brooklyn, E. D. as per directions. My ring at the door-bell is answered, and a voice disturbing an echo of my childhood says, "come fight in, I know you." What a wel- come these words contained, and 1 did not hesitate to partake of the hospitality they offered. It had been twenty years since I had seen the faces of the dwellers m this elegant abode. Lo\'ing me when but a child, they now greeted the ifownj, as though there had been no intervention of long, eventful years. I was nearly over- come with the days anxiety and exciting travels and a motherly hand removed the bonnet of which I was forgetful, and that I had worn since the early moniing. 1 broke the day's fast by partaking of a hearty supper, and retired early, the sound of the merriment coming up from V)elow disturljing me not, but rather wooed me to the sweet slumber which I indulged in till a late hour the following moniing. THAT PLYMOTirn PASTOTt. 51 CHAPTER XIV. ^'ATURDAY, my first day in Brooklyn, was dark and rainy ,^^ without, but within doors, a cheerful fire in the ^rate and lively conversation with my hostess and family, dispelled all drear- iness. I was suffering nmch with a cold in my head, Ijut despite clouds and sneezing 1 was very hap^iy in this retired, city home. Sunday, October 1st, was a bright, glorious Sabbath, and I open my tiTink for the first time since it was packed at home, and don- ning my best garments, we journeyed a distance of three miles on the street cars, to the renowned Plymouth Church, presided over by Rev. Henry Ward Beecher. Our party were fortunate in being offered a seat by a kind, elderly gentleman, the acceptance of which commanded for us a full view of the minister, choir and a closely packed congregation. Hundreds went away mthout even as much as a peep into the vestibule, for the church literally overflowed with curious humanity anxious to hear this, the noted divine's first ser- mon since the close of his summer vacation. I doubt not that there were daring ones among the waiting crowd that would have clung to the church spire if by so doing they were enabled to hear the utterances of this man whose notoriety is universal. There was nothing particularly strildng about the discourse. There was an eloquent allusion to the t\vittering birds that so fill the green boughs of the trees, in the seclusion of the country — the same feathered songsters that sang in the heart of that little, lone woman as she dusted "father's'^' chair ready for his reception when he "dropped in" of a moiTiing for a frolic with Theo's rolicking children. The long, gray locks of this afflicted pastor were none too smoothly brushed ; he wore no shining suit of broad cloth with the elements of newness about it, but plain and imvarnished, he stood before us with an unfa^ltering faith in the gospel, that religious barque that had boitled with the assailants of his reputation, and upon whose 52 TWELVE STATES AND A KINGDOM. banners waving at the mast-head, he hoped to inscribe — victory! I saw an aged, son"ow stricken form in a seat near the front; her silver hair was smoothly brushed away fro'in her wrinkled brow; her sweet face bore the impress of christian forbeai-ance a,nd wifely for- giveness, and innocence sat enthroned in ever}'' lineament. She was the wife of lb 'iny Ward Beecher. A poor looking old man, who wore a skull-cap, presided at the org;)n, and the choir of sixty or more, at the close of the sennon, continued to woi-ship the God of our fathers in grand anthems whose melod}' filled my soul. By the discourse I had failed to be lifted up, but the music was such as hath power to "calm the savage breast to peace." In the afternoon I was escorted to Prospect Park, containing five hundred and fifty acres. Huge, old trees contribute to its shade, and cooling rills take one in imagination to the depths of the country. It contains eight miles of drives. The lake covers sixty-one acres. We pass the Sabbath evening at home in pleasant conversation. CHAPTER XV. 'ON DAY moniing, October '2d, we repair to New York City for a view of Central Park, one of the largest and finest in the world, containing eight hundred and forty-three acres, entered at eighteen different points. It is crossed by four streets, to afford opportunity for traffic which pass under the park and drives. Be- tween 79th and 96th streets ai-e two Croton reservoirs, one compris- ing thirty-five and th(; other one hundred and seven acres. The five lakes oixnipy forty-three and one-half acres. . There are ten miles of carriage roads and thirty miltis of foot paths. The Mall near the fifth Avenue entrance, is the principal promenade, shaded by elm trees in double rows. We were disappointed at not hearing the band in the Music Pavilion. At the termination of the Mall is the Terrace, a lofty pile of masonry richly carved. We descended the Terrace by a flight of broad stone steps, and beheld Centi-al CKNTRAI, PAKK. f>'\ Lake with its waters sparkling in the sunlight, and fragile boats dancing on the surface. Between the Terrace and the Lake we saw a fountain whose cost is said to excel any on the continent. There is a colossal statue of the Angel of Bethesda. We entered the American Museum of Natural History,' which occupies the old State Arsenal. We saw savage animals, and birds without number, with the most lovely plumage. Monkeys chattered and performed various antics for our amusement, and a huge seal sci'eached and floundered in a tank constructed for its use. Animals with strange humps and horns, grazed in an enclosure, and altogether our stay at the Park was most delightful. In a tour of the city we pass Bellevue hospital, the largest in the city, accommodating one thou- sand two hundred paiients. Blackwells IsUmd, one hundred and twenty acres in extent, is pointed out tome as containing the prison where Tweed was confined. We pass the Tombs, a gloomy look- ing structure indeed. We also pass a building commenced by Tweed, but unfinished, and now under its rains live disreputable characters. By this time it is mid-day, and we have reached the house occupied by an old school-mate of mine, whose birth-day would have been coeval with mine, had it occuiTcd a week sooner. I remember him only, as a handsome, curly-headed boy, whose juvenile attentions were much sought after, and I was unprepared for the sight of a stalwart man with banking res})onsibilities upon his shoulders, the husband of a dear little woman and the father of a bright-eyed boy, witli shining curls, and the sweetest of smiles and rosiest of cheeks and lips. After partaking of their hospitality for a short hour, we visit Stewart's store, constructed of iron paint- ed white, and five stories high. No sign or placard advertise the elegance within, or mar the beauty of the i:)lain exterior. Its in- terior presents an aspect of neatness, and order and richness is dis- played on every hand. We mingle in the Babel of confuson on Broa-'lway, and note its unsurpassed splendor without envy. We take a look at Washington Square, containing eight acres, and Steinway's piano rooms, and other places of interest that I shall note in summing up my description of this wonderful city. We arrive at Brooklyn, fatigued in mind and body, but I am not so exhausted but what I do full justice to the bountiful supply of edi- bles spread for our epicurean enjoyment. To me, there is no com- parison in the goodness between the substantial food found upon the tables of private families and served by familiar, cleanly hands, •t4 Twr:r-VK ptatks axh a kingdom. and that obtained at the eommon run of public hout^os, prepared in dirty kitchens and dished np by bhwik servants, who in all proba- bility have scratched their vvooly heads preparatory to mixing the busciiit, or as a seasoning- process, slapped their colored brother in the ("vice with tin' bei}f-steak before placing it over the coals. CHAPTER XVI. ^f|T^HE six o'clock meal dispatched, we decide to return to New ' York City, and attend the concert given at Gilmore's Gar- den that evening. Those of my readers who have ever indulged in the youthful sport of playing in "Gideon's band," whei'e each jolly juveiiile is allotted a chimerical instrument upon which he is sup- posed to execute, in pantomime, the most ditYicult airs, quite inde- pendent of his neighbors melody, I which is in operation at the same time) but which instiiunent they must immetliately relinquish, and mimic their leader as he in turn plays on the ditferent imaginary instruments, and woe be to the neoterical musician if he does not follow the movements of the master, — with this experience before you, you can form an idea of how I was affected bj- Gilmore's Grand Orchestra, each member of which blew enough wind through their brass horns to raise any roof less firmly rivited than the one cover- ing the Concert Garden. The »ois« was a success; the melody/ a failure; that is, from where I sat, and my proximate companions agreed with me. Personally, Gilmore is grand and stately, and no doubt master of all he undertakes. He certainly had those ladies and gentleman under the i)erfect control of the stick he Nourished in his gloved hand, and the Inight br.ltons on his military uniform, flashed in the gas light with all tlie brilliancy of a purer metal. The vocal part of the peribruiance was i.'ither Ijeyond my apprecia- GTDEOn's r.AXD UXDKK OILMORK. o5 tion or else it did not amount to much, and I am inclined to tlie latter statement, for 1 consider myself a judge of such common song-s as the "Star Spang-led Banner," but on an attempted rendi- tion of that national air by Madame Somebody, T was puzzled to know whether the old flag still waved in the good old tashioned way or whether the terrific squall then prevailing had nut torn our emblem of freedom in tatters. Women arc taking great lil)erties with the rights of men now-a-days, bnt when a full biass l>and. composed of long-wmded Germans, gets ready to play, 1 think it is time for a woman to wind up her trills; but this Madam kept right on amid the din of wind instruments as if her voice was being ac- companied by the dulcet tones of harp or guitar instead of the deaf- ening roar of a hurricane. And how she did scream in falsetto tones that would have burst the bonnet- strings of any modest maiden, member of a village church choir. The cornet solos exe- cuted by Mr. M. Arbuckle and Mr. J. Le\'y', were the only acts 1 could heartily applaud, and their musical talents are certainly un- equaled in this or foreign climes. The "Grarden" was decorated with blooming flowers, and ornamented with statuary and rustic seats, and near the entrance was a cavern adown whose rocky sides water trickled melodiously. The scene was lit by colored gas light, resembUng round balls, and placed equidistant^ in semi-cir- cles over our heads. But all the beauty was marred by stiihng tobacco smoke and incessant beer drinking. I was glad to escape the fumes and breathe again the pure out-door air. if one can call air pure that is constantly being appropriated by such a conglom- erate mass of humanity as is sheltered under the municipal law of the Empii-e City. I again meet my W acquaintances, and find they have as much comprehensiveness of the musical performance as myself. We cross the feriy by moonlight, and standing on the deck of the boat, the Great All Seeing Eye seemed to have singled us out and b?amed upon us with loving watchfulness an 1 benignity. I could imagme no crime committed on such an eft'ulgtnt night. The heavens spake too plaiidy of the glory of the All father, and the vigilance of the angels must be of avail under the radiance of this lunar and stellar light. 66 TWKIA'R STATICS AND A KfNGDOM, CHAPTER XVII. ^^itUESDAY morning, October Md, I bid adieu to my Brooklj'n ^^ friends, and meeting Mrs. D. at the ferry, we took tii'st the horse cars then the steam cars for Coney Island. On our arrival there we meandered the sandy beach and inhaled the fi-esh sea breezes and shuddered the while at the wreck and ruin these dar- ing waves might cause, did we permit a freedom of their caresses. We gathered the soft, white sand and sea-shells, and then sat down to listen to the ever murmuring sea. The billows of the Atlantic wafted no tales to our receptive ears. We watched a sail recede from view with gi-ateful feelings that we wei-e on solid terra-finna. The next point of interest was Greenwood cemetery, said to be the most beautiful in the world, and containing four hundred and thir- teen acres. Since 1842, one hundred and seventy-eight thousand interments have been made. The main entrance is one hundred and thirty-two feet long and forty feet deep, the pinnacle in the center being one hundred and six feet high. It is sculptured with scenes from the bible, the main ones being the entombment and resurrection of Christ. The grounds have seventeen miles of car- riage roads and fifteen miles of footpaths. The soldiers monument on a raise of ground, presents a view of the two cities, and their surrounding waters. The sun shone wannly down upon the green sodded roofs under which slept the inhabitants of this silent necro- polis, but alas its revivifying rays were lost, for, if we believe the scriptures, not till the dread Judgment Day when the last trump shall sound, shall these bodies be quickened and arise and depart to the right or left, as the Omnipotent hand may dictate. The costly, imposmg monument spoke not more plainly of a remem- brance of the dear departed, than did the toys and homely tokens of love aiTanged in glass cases and placed o'er the graves of the little darlings recalled to heaven. The tod and worry in the busy, THE CITY OF cnuRcnEs. 57 bustling world, will never cease to add new inmates to these sub- terranean homes. The work was still going on, and a heap of moist, fresh earth, marked the place where an open grave was waiting for the interment of some soulless body. But tor such deep gulfs of despair in the pathway of life, many a journey through this v.^orld would be made in gaiety and worldliiiess, vdth never an uplook toward heaven or a thought of the eternal. While we resume our long street-car ride and bid adieu to Brooklyn, perhaps for ever, I will detail a few of its most interesting points not yet mentioned. It is the third largest city in the United States, separated from New York by the East river, and is at the west end of Long Island. From north to south it is seven and three-fourths miles long, and its average breadth is three and one -half miles. It was settled in 1625. On the Heights back of the city the battle of Long Island was fought August 26th 1776, and the Americans were defeated with a loss of two-fifths of their men engaged. Its population in 1870 was ;'96,099. It has few hotels, but many fine boulevard's, and is known as the "City of Churches." R. S. Storrs is the pastor of the Church of the Pilgrims, and Talmage's Tabernacle is said to be the largest Protestiint Church in America. The United States Navy Yard covers forty- five acres of ground. The Dry Dock is said to be one of the most remarkable structures of the kind in the worid, is built of granite and cost $2,li;:!,17a. It holds 610,000 gallons of water and can be emptied by steam pumps in four and one-half hours. The Atlantic Dock has an area of foity-two and one-half acres, and water of sufficient depth to accommodate the largest ships. The wharfage is two miles in extent. "The piers are of solid granite, and surrounding the basin on all sides, except an entrance two hundred feet wide for vessels, are substantial brick, and granite warehouses. In crossing Fulton ferry to or from New York the massive towers of the bridge are conspicuous objects. Their height above high water is two hundred and sixty-eight feet. The bridge itself when completed will be six tliousand feet long, and the span across the river from tower to tower one thousand five hundred and ninety- five feet long. It will be eighty-five feet wide including a promenade of thirteen teet, two railroad tracks and four wagon or horse car tracks. From high water mark to the floor of the bridge in the center, will be a distance of one hundred and thirty-five feet, so that na\agation will not be impeded. The approach on the Brooklyn side from the terminus to the anchorage, 8 58 TWELVE STATES AND A KINCDOM. will measure eight hundred and thirty-six feet; on the Xew York side, one thousand three hundred and thirt.y-six feet. Its cost will be about $10,000,000." We reach Broadway, New York, in the Dfiiddle of the afternoon and perambulate till evening this great central thoroughfare of the city eighty feet wide, and stopping at some of the mammoth retiiil stores, wf; make a few puix'hases, there by familiarizing ourselves with the manners and customs of the elite of the city while they are out on their shopping expiditions, sending in their orders for some such trifle as a bit of lace, or diamond pin, the bill for which amounts to himdreds of dollars, but the cost is immaterial to those favored votaries of tashion rolling in their wealth, yet often laclcing two of the most desirable elements of life — health and happiness. Weak and faint with the days travels and fast, the six o'clock dinner-bell at Mrs. D.'s boarding house, where we were stopping, was a pleasant sound to hear, and I ciuite forgot good, old Dr. Hall's admonitions about hearty evening meals, as the variety of viands was placed before me in pursuance to my orders. After a half hours pleasant converse in the parlor, we repaired to our rooms seeking the repose we so much needed. Before my eyes danced alternately the gay and solemn splendors that had made of the day a brief dream. The tinkling car-bell and rumbling wheels on the pavements reverberated in my ears. One moment 1 was rejoicingwiththose who rejoiced, the next, mourning with those who mourned. Now, standing on some dizzy pinnacle taking a bird's eye A-iew of land and water below, again, I was tossed by the ocean's billows, or floatuig idly down some limped stream. Women, attired in costly velvets and dazzling diamonds, led by the liand ragged urchins and decrepit old men. Horses ■with heads like lions and tails of seipents, were gaily caparisoned and attached to elegant barouches, whose inmates were the resur- rected fi-om the mausoleums of Greenwood, in long, white robes and staiTy crowns upon their foreheads, emblazoned with the warn- ing words, "Tis better to go to the house of mourning than to the house of feasting." AFTKK SUPPEU GHOSTS. '59 CHAPTER XVIII. (j|\ MONG the geographical and historical accounts of tlie city of ^v^V New York, none are so explicit as the description of that renowned city, found in the "Hand-Book of American Cities," and the author of that valuable work will pardon me if I cull from its pages much useful information, an'ogating nothing to myself but giving the praise to him, to whom it is justly due. "'This great commercial metropolis of the United States, and largest city of the western Hemispliere, is situated at the mouth of the Hudson river on New York Bay. It covers the entire surface of Manhattan Island, as well as numerous other islands in the East river. Its extreme length north from the Battery, is sixteen miles. Its great- est width from the Hudson to the Bronx river, is four and one-half miles. It covers twenty-six thousand five hundred acres, of which twelve thousand acres are on the mainland. Manhattan Island, on which the city proper stands is three and one-half miles long, and varies in breadth from a few hundred yards, to two and one -fourth miles — ha\dng an era of fourteen thousajid acres, to which the islands in the East river add four hundi-ed more. The harbor of New York is one of the finest and most picturesque in the world. (Perhaps the time is not far distant when its rival will be that of San Diego, California, whose praises are already being bruited by officious reporters and anxious railroad officials.) The outer bar of New York harbor is at Sandy Hook, eighteen miles from the Bat- teiy. Hendrick Hudson, an Englishman, in the service of the Dutch East India Company arrived at the site of the present city, September 3d, 1601). He afterwards ascended the river as far as the site of Albany, and claimed the land by right of discovery, as an appendage of Holland. In 1614 a Dutch colony came over and began a settlement. In 1664 it was suirendered to the British, and passing into the hands of the Duke of York, was called New York. In 1696 Trinity Church was founded. In 1711 a slave 60 TWKLVE STATKS AND A KINODOJt. market was established in Wall street. The Aineiican army under Washington occniiied the city in 177(), but after the battles of Long' Island and Harlem Heights, it was captured by the British forces and remained their headquarters for seven years, llie British troo[)S evacuated the city November 2'')th 1783. The Erie canal was completed in 182-"). It is estimated that there are one million five hundi-ed thousand persons in New York at noon on every secular day. Delmonico's restaurant, at the comer of Tith Avenue and 14th street, is one of the best dining: places in the world, and is famous for its elaborate dinners. The Grand Central Depot, in 42d street, between 4th and Madison Avenue, is the largest and finest in tiie country; it cost nearly $2,2-")0,000. It is six hundred and ninety-two feet long' and two hundred and forty feet wide, and admits one hundred and fifty cars. The depot of tlie Pennsylvania railroad is reached by ferries, from foot of Desbrosses and Court- land streets. The elevated railway runs from the Battery to Central Park, at 59th street. The track is supported by iron pillars and the cars are luxurious, and drawn by small locomotives. Wall street, less than a half mile long, running from Broadway opposite Trinity Church to the East river, is the monetaiy centre of the country. It contains the custom-house and United States sub- treasury. Fifth Avenue is the favoiite promenade, and almost exclusively devoted to private residences. Castle Garden, on the sea-verge of the Battery, was built in 1807 as a fortress, (Castle Clinton.) It was ceded to the city in 182-'!, and was the scene of the civic receptions of the Marquis de Lafayette, Gto. Jackson, President Tyler and others. Subsequently it became an opera house, and here Jenny Lind, Sontag and Mario made their appear- ance. The building is now used as a depot for immigrants, and the chief recei\nng and distributing reservoir of the great tide of immi- gration from Europe. Bowling Green, the cradle of New York, is just north of the Battery; in the times of the Dutch it was the court end of town, and sun-ounded by the best houses. The Kennedy House, No. 1, Broadway, was built in 1760, and is one of the most interesting relics now left standing. In colonial times it was the heart of the fashion in the colony, having been sccessfuUy the resi- dence and headquarters of Lords Corawallis and Howe, Gen. (Sir Henry) Clinton and Gen. Washington. Talleyrand also lived there during his stay in this countiy. Arnold occupied No. 5, Broadway, and in Clinton's headquarters his treasonable projects were con- in>:rT fkai^ds. 61 certed. Fulton died in 181') in a room in the present Wiishington Hotel. Washington's farewell intei-view w-ith the officers, took place at France's tavern, comer of Tearl and Broad streets, long since removed. The new posfoffice cost between six and seven million dollars, and was occupied in ;>7-'). The new Court House, occupied since 1867, but not yet completed, has walls of white marble; the beams and staircases are of iron. The cost of the building and furnitui-e was over $12,000,000; the result of the notorious "Ring frauds" of which it was the insti-ument. The United States sub-treasury is a white marble building at the corner of Wall and Nassau streets. Formerly the old Federal Ha 1 stood on this site, and the spot is as classic as that whereon Washington delivered his inaugural address. The new Tribune budding is the loftiest on the island, and the largest and best appointed newspa- per office in the world, and is absc^utely fire-proof. A. T. Stewart's marble building, devote in the world, and here all the operations of that important organi- zation ai*e earned on. The Five Points House of industiy and Five Points Mission face each other on what was once the vilest and most dang-erous part of the city. The Battery at the south extrem- ity of the city, looking out on the Bay embraces twenty-one acres. Hell (late, long the terror of vessels entering or leaving the harbor by way of Long Island Sound, is a collection of rocks in the chan- nel which ottering much resistance to the tides causes a succession of whirlpools and rapids." This dangerous place was the scene of the great explosion before mentioned, which took place Sunday September 24th 1876. Much hard labor yet remains to be per- formed before the rocky barriers entirely disappear. Thus endeth our tour of New York City, guided by the friendly hand of "D. Appleton, it Co.," whose handsome publishing house stands in the vicinity of the St. Nicholas and Metropolitan Hotels. But for the useful knowledge gained from the descriptive volumes issuing from that great house, 1 should long' since have become bewildered in some of the narrow, mixed up streets of the city, or hopelessly strahded on the ocean of its grandeur. TRIP XTP THE niTDSOI^. 63 CHAPTER XIX. C^C^J^EDNESDAY Diorning October fourth, burst upon us in H^i^Htv' truly oriental s]>lenilor and ere the fifth matutinal hour was reached, my garments were arranged with reference to the day's duties and pleasures, the firet of which was the pursuit of my second self during this tnp, namely,— my trunk. It had been checked from Brooklpi to some pier from which the day-boat from New York city to Albany plied the Hudson, but ivhkh pier had been the momentous question of the waking hours of the previous night, and my morning thoughts were agitated to that pitch that even the enticements of a downy bed and early drepms "sure to come true," had not the power to woo me. Leaving the sharer of my conch, the partner of my joys and sorrows pro tem, our dear sister Doyle, to indulge in the luxury the center of a wann bed is sure to produce, I set forth for the pier nearest our boarding place, some dozen blocks distant, making freq-^ent inquiries of policemen to assure myself I was facing the right direction, and then 1 went ahead in true Westonian style. On reaching my destination I found the baggage master was yet in the land of dreams and all was silent as a deserted fort, deserted save one sentinel, who guarded what I supposed to be the little Le\'iathan chained to this pier, but which afterward proved to be the steamer "Armenia," that was destined to rock us on the bosom of the Hudson for miles northward, but vain were its wooings, and, dreamy as were the sounds of the rippling waves' our eyes could not close and shut out God's master-piece of crea- tion — the banks of the Hudson. But I must not leave that sent- inel standing guard so long, not wi'h gun in hand, but a wooden bucket which he now and then lowered to the water — filled and dashed on the head of this animal, this huge Leviathan that sat 64 TAVEl.VE STATES AND A KINGDOM, on the face of llie waters so triuinpliantly. I ventured an inquiry as to where 1 niioht find the person in charge of the ba^.'-gage stowed at that point. The galhuit marine leaped from the back of the animal and soon aroused Irom slumber ihe tardy baggage master. But the trunk to me of all trunks, was not there, and I turned my back on that wharf detennined to lose no time in reaching Thirty-ninth pier, one and a half miles distant. "That Bi'ooklyn expressman must have the absent-mindedness of a Beecher who mistook Tilton's house for his own,"' I said to myself as t indignantly hailed a street-car. The track ran parallel with the river, and casting niy eyes over the inmates of the crowded car, visions of all I had heard and read of river rats, kidnappers, thieves and murderers, arose in my mind and I was right in their midst judging from a pnmn facin view of the case. Even the Grab- man of Watseka, might be there disguised in the garb of a flay laborer in lien of his nocturnal imiform, and at an opportune moment might confront me with deniniciatory words as the cause of his exile from his native western wilds. If there was one more dirty and whose filth excelled in its age, it was he who offered me a seat. 1 took his place, however, sqiieezed in between two men whose \asages suggested the veritable Charley Ross captors. There was one female aboard and though she was of foreign extraction, shabby and evidently destitute of the cardinal graces, T was thank- ful for her presence and could well exclaim with brother Russell, "God bless the women !" For a weaiy half hour did that ctir drag at a snail's pace past dens of perdition that bordered the track on either side. I caught frequent views of the river lying so peaceful in the morning sunlight and wondered why God did not cause its waters to rise in a body a,nd sweep from the earth such wTetched- ness as o'ershadowed its banks. Ten thousand times ten thousand fathoms of the Hudson would it take to cleanse this footstool of its sinanulated the cabin with smiles on her Ethiopian visage, and kindness m her heart. While I shall not enter into any extended guide-book descrip- tion of the loveliness of th(^ Hudson river scenery, yet I am justly indebted to its pjiges for many of my illustrations. If in 1609 Henry Hudson had not made this wonderful discovery for us, the gloiy might have been left for some successful female navigator. If in imagination we wander back to those primitive times, how shall we compare the perfection of the wildness of the seventeenth cen- tury with the perf'ectness of cultivation of the nineteenth V How futile must be even my best cttbrfs at a description of the grandeur of this Kden of America upon the one hand, while upon the other, peak ujion peak of cragged rocks rise to such a height that we may fancy the angels perchijig upon them as they take their flight between the two worlds. This river whose beauty and utility are acknowledged by the whole world, is an offspring of the Adirondack mountains and bears the likeness of its parents along its banks for the three hundred miles of its course to the ocean. All the poetized beauties of the Rhine are monotonous compared to the ever varj'ing landscape along the Hudson. Xot being a German, we eschew the beer gardens of Hoboken, and the aiTay of breweries that line the banks and sail soberly on our way. What a shame that tlie Ijeauties of nature must, even on historic ground, be marred by distilleries, propagators of intemperance. At the base of the N.VTURK AND AKT CONTRASTED. 67 Weehawken hills, in 1804, occurred the duel between Alexander Hamilton and Aaron Burr, which resulted in the death of the states- man Hamilton. At'Fort Lee begin the palisades, a term applied to a wall of rocks, over twenty miles, along the western liank of the river. They are narrow, being in some places not more than three- quarters of a mile wide. The situation for summer uses is admira- ble, salubrious air and unbounded prosjject. While the westenr shore is one of barrrn rock, the eastern, in striking contrast, blos- soms out with greenest verdure, fairest flowers, most beautiful villas, an aristocratic display unmarred by a single common feature. Two miles below the town of Yonkers are Mount St. Vincent, and the castle-like residence, now a part of St. Vincent, but formerly the residence of the tragedian, Edwin FoiTest. It is a Roman catholic convent school for girls, and while famous for its educa- tional advantages, I trust our western daughters may be free from the pernicious instructions its name suggests. We are told the buikling is of red brick, certainly not charming to the eye, but as "distance lends enchantment to the view," I found the sight par- ticularly pleasing and the old castle inspired me with feelings of awe. I shall not attempt a description of the various to\vns we reached, as the appearance of all river towns at the water's edge is unprepossessing, and the visuals orbs are greeted with the backs of tumble-down looking buildings, coal elevators and debris that eveiywhere line the wharves. It cannot be expected that a minute description be given of what I have not seen, therefore of Sunnyside, the home of Wash- ington Irving, I remain silent, but on the opposite shore I remem- ber Nyack, and the glimpses of its loveliness, I took in during the brief time allotted me. Tarrytown, twenty -nine miles fi-om New York, Washington Irving tells us was so named by the hcfusewives of the neighboring country, in consequence of the inveterate pro- pensity of their husbands to linger about the village taverns. The name might not be inappropriately applied to some western towns we might mention. The Dutch called it Wheat To\vn, because of the abundance of that cereal on the hills and valleys around. It seems as if nature had outdone herself at this point, and indeed nothing but elegance greets the eye for miles as we glide along the smooth waters and marvel at the harmonious comljination of the works of God and man. With a description of the craft of the Hudson I feel myself totally unable to cope, my knowledge of navi- 68 TWKLVK STATKS AXD A KIXGDOM. gation bein^' limited, mid but for tlic horses I can barely distinguish between a brig and a canal boat. The historic account of Tarry- town is associated with thi; story of Arnold an(> Andre. The latter tamed too long on his visit to Arnold, and was arrested on a spot now -within the precincts of the town. Washington Irving attend- ed Divine service at this town, Sunnyside being only three miles distant. He lies hurried near the old Dutch church at Sleepy Hollow. I would fain claim relationship with this illustrious per- sonage. His mother's name was Sarah. When we are sweltering under the heat of the sultiy days of the summer of 1(S77, it will be comforting to think that the previous year we passed so near the famous Rockland lake embosomed in the hills near Nyiu-k, from which comes the greater portion of ice used in New York, and probably the largest ice market in the world. One thousand men are employed in cutting and storing ice, some two hundred thousand tons being the annual supply. Thirty-three miles from New York. Sing Sing with its horrible suggestions looms before our view. Its appellation is derived from the Indian name Ossiving, meaning "stone upon stone." The prison was founded in 1826. The building has been erected by the convicts, of stone quarried on the spot. What may have been the incentive to labor actuating those prisoners while rearing this secure home tor themselves, those of us who have never been deprived of our freedom may never know. It has an iron foundry, and manufactories of shoes, whips, saddles andfui-niture. llius the covering for our feet may have been made by hands in bondage — the elasticity of the whips their fingers have woven, may have been tried over their own backs, because of their disobedience to prison laws. While their deft hands made finii the leathern saddle-gir- dle their'eyes may have gaze d in vain at the hills over which they may never ride, mounted on steeds fleet in their freedom. Even in those prison walls is shown the supremacy of woman, as her prison house stands to the east on higher ground, and she whiles away the tedious hours in making clothing. The building for refractorj' females is of marlile and has one hundred and eight cells, while for men twelve hundred cells are pre[)ared, showing in which sex lies the preponderance of pci-versity. About four miles above Sing Sing, Croton river enters the Hudson. Six miles up the i-iver is Croton lake, from which New ELir.lRLK IirSBANDS. 69 York city is supplied with water, conducted by an aqueduct, over forty miles long. l)y sixteen tunnels and over twenty bridges. At Kidd's point, now called Caldwells' landing, we enter the Highlands. Fifty-one miles from New York is West Point, rightly named so far as our observation serves us, as from the steepness of the rocks, the denseness of foliage, hut a point of the beauties of this place is to be seen from the boat landing. I am told love- making is carried on here in the summer season, regularly and harmlessly. In 1812, an act was passed by congress, authorizing the establishment of the Military Academy, on its present broad foundations and its organizations and ai^pointments have steadily improved. No luxuries are permitted, and the students are trained to endure the rigors of the active militaiy life for which they are preparing. This accounts for the harmlessness of the darts of love which are annufilly hurled at them by the fairest of Hudson's fair daughters. In choosing a husband, I recommend the West Point Cadets to the young ladies as being better prepared for married life, inasmuch as they have not been allowed waiters, horses or dogs, at this military school, and each student is compelled to make his own bed and clean up his own tobacco (for I do not suppose the managers of the institution are so cruel and unmindful of what is so conducive to the health and happiness of man, as to deprive these sons of war of that fragrant, comforting weed.) Lights are dark- ened at ten and the embryo soldier is sui^posed to go to sleep. In choosing, be sure you get one that conforms to the rules, for there are intimations that soldiers, like mice, need the vigilant eye of a staid feline to keep them from mischief. The insubordinate ones are known to indulge in what they call "midnight hash" consist- ing of various edibles mixed in the wash-basin and cooked over a gas stove produced from the chimney. If tlie current of these con- vivial spirits is inteixupted, the guests decamp and leave the host to explain the coid'usion. We read that upon the walls of the chapel are tablets bearing the names in gilt letters of the generals of the revolution. Benedict Arnold's has only the words "'Major General, bom l'^40" with furrows in the stone as if the inscription had been cut out. Would that each traitor to our country during this century could have a like mark of opprobrium set upon his memory. The remains of Gen. Winfield Scott rests in the ceme- tery at West Point. Near this place are two mountains, Stonii King, the highest point of the Highlands, 1,800 feet, and Cro'nest, 70 TWKIAT: states AXD a KTNCiDOM. the latter, the. scene upon which was founded the chavniing poem entitled "The CulpiitFay," hy Joseph Rodman Drake. The author was then twenty-one, and upon this poem his fame chiefly rests, fdlewild. the home of N. P. Willis is hidden from our view. As a reljuke to the owners of some of the l»eautifnl grounds on the Hudson, who haA'e denied strangers admission to their homes, N. P. Willis says, "Doors niay lock, Ijut oul iloors is a freehold to feet and eyes." In this vicinity, T remember, the Hudson nver railroad is constructed over the water, and as we were passinj^, a long train of cars distanced us showdng at what a slow rate we were moving' compared to the fljdng iron horse attached to the rail cars. We were in sight of the railroad track the most of our way, and train after train flew past us, and after our weary eyes could gaze no longer, we half wished we were on lioard the Express l>ound for Albany. We pass Newburg. and that enormous l)ell again rings out and our ubiquitous darkey i)i stentorian tones thundered out, "The aft gangway for Poughkeepsie." We belie not the meaning of this word as we land in this ' 'safe and pleasant harbor. ' ' Near this place is the celebrated woman's college, founded by Matthew Vas- sar, at which three hundred and fifty young women are educated. The college contains one thousand doors, and cei-tainly there can be no lack of communion in that place. The student of nature can view her works from seven hundred and fifty windows. At several points along the river we have glimpses of the Cats- kill mountains stretching into invisible distance beyond the western bank. They rise abruptly from a plain on their eastern side and are ascended by a winding road at the edge of the deep glen, near the head of which is an amphitheatn;, inclosed Ijy lofty heights, where Hip Van Winkle fell into his long sleep of twenty years. 1 had the pleasure of viewing the representation of these mountains at this point, in McVicker's theater, and the celebrated Joe Jeffer- son personated, as he alone can do, poor Rip and his oft-repented but uncontrohible habit of intemperance. Among these glorious scenes lived Cole, the artist who painted the "Voyage of Life." Catskill Landing is one hundred and eleven miles from New York, on the western shore. The Catslrill enters the river, near by, which is navigable for large vessels a mile from its mouth. Here Heniy Hudson anchored "The Half Moon," on the 20th of September, 1609. ONE HUNDRED YEARS WITHOUT A LAWYER. 71 We are neai'ing our place of destination, weary in body and mind, for we have carefully followed the beauteous display of nature the whole of the one hundred and forty -four miles from New York to Albany, with the exception of the time devoted to dinner and the unravelling- of that bill of fare, the dilficulty of which lay in making the prices and our pocket-books harmonize. The soup would have been admirably adapted to irrigating- purposes. The half of a roast chicken being sixty-five cents and sold in no less quantity, and having neither time nor inclination for such herculean task, we did not invest in fowl. Before leaving home I was told that I was going into a land of sweet potatoes. Whoever supplies the Hudson river boats with that palatable article must be a mil- lionaire, as for the half of a small potato ten cents is charged, but the dehciousness of the desert over-balanced the defectiv(^ness of the first portion of the meal, the high tariff notwathstanding. In the after-part of the day the sky became o"erclouded, and our imagination was called upon to supply the' warm tints the obscured sun withheld. As evening drew near, had a vision of paradise burst upon me 1 could not have been aroused from the apathy this surfeiting of beauty had evidently produced, and had it not been for the name of sleeping during a jouniey on the Hudson, I think I should have fallen into dreamland without an effort. But my fellow-travelers began to gather up their several satchels and bundles, and sleep was denied me, for I must be on the alert lest my precious satchel fall into the hand.s of thieves. If it be ti-ue that "As ye judge, so shall ye be judged," it is not a comforting thought to ruminate upon, that during one's travels they are looked upon with a suspicious eye, and instead of being considered innocent till found guilty, it is quite to the contrary and embezzlement is attributed as your besetting sin. Albany, the city that is said to have existed one hundred years ■without a lawyer, is reached at last. The plank is thrown out and we endeavor to alight. The pleasures of the day being over, our trials commence. Having seen our baggage properly checked, satchel in hand, we set out on foot for Stanwix Hall, a short dist- ance from the boat landing. All the imps of darkness, fresh from the regions of the furies, could not h-ave besieged us as did the gamins of Albany, intent on relieving us of our hand baggage. Being two lone females in a strange city, we committed ourselves /2 TWKr-VK STATES AXD A KINGDOM. to the protecting care of a policeman, and succeeded in reaching" the hotel without loss — save that of temper. Deep darkness set in and heavily the rain drops fell, and we were glad to enjoy unch'sturbed the luxuries our rooms afforded. There were two suspicious lookuig doors, without bolt or key, leading from our bedrooni besides the one that connected it with our parlor, and being ever vigilant as to burglars, we secured them by removing our bedstead in such a manner as to ftisten both. We even tightly closed the transom, and shut ourselves in with feelings of perfect security and satisfaction — shut in trom the turmoil and bustle of the moving world; shut in from wind and wave and rolling tide; shut in with our blissful retrospection of all the delights the day had given us, the rapturous experience, an influence upon our lives that even four score years and ten may not dispel. Beautiful Hudson! Smoothly gliding waters. Rear on thy bosom precious, human fi-eightago, and if on earth our eyes no more behold thee, in spirit let us' nestle in thy mimic waves or hover among the gi-een, mossy dells that line thy banks. When the stonu king reigns 'mid the mountains and the barques toss wildly on the treacherous waters, may that voice still whisper as of old: •' Peace be still," A fOYETID M'OT. 73 CHAPTER XX. (T\ LBANY, a city of over 80,000 inhabitants, is situated on the. ^A> West hank of the Hudson, "at the head of sloop navigation and near the head of tide-water." In 1628 Fort Orange was builo where the city now stands, and next to Jamestown, in Virginia, was the earliest European settlement in the origuial thirteen states. It is the port of the great Erie canal from the West, which traver- ses the state from Albany to Buifalo parallel with the railroad, and Ohamplain canal from the North. The new Capitol when finished will be the largest and most magnificent structure in America, ex- cepting the Federal Capitol at Washington. The city has fifty- four churches. The elements conspire to make Thursday morning, October fifth, one of gloom, but if ever a place looked cheering and inviting to me, it was the breakfast room of Stanwix Hall on that veiy morning. The bill of fare embraced everything that was most appetizing, and during my two thousand miles journey, the credit of variety, wholesomeness and abundance, together with alacrity in serving, must rest with this house and combine to make that meal one of the most enjoyable of the many taken in public places during my extended tour. The New York Central railroad depot being near our hotel we walked thither while the rain f 11 in torrents, and once more were en route for a sight of familiar faces. We pass Schenectady, one of the oldest towns in the State of New York, and the road crosses the Mohawk river and Erie canal on a bridge nearly 1,000 feet long. The scenery consists of wild cas- cades, rapid rivers, and lovely green hills, under which are nestled homes of comfoit and elegance. We reach Utica, ninety-five miles from Albany, aljout noon and take the cars on the Delaware and Lackawanna road going South. Between Utica and Sherburne, our ]3lace of destination, 1 saw a coveted spot where 1 could rear a home and be happy. From our elevated position on the railway it 10 74 TWKI.VE STATES AND A KINOllOAr. seemed to be a basin siuTOumled by wooded hills, itself not devoid of cranny nooks, slight elevations and indi<,^enous pines, small lakes and clear streams, green pastures enclosed l)y symmetrical stone walls. There Avere sloping knolls where orchard trees bore red and golden fiiiit. No bottondess sloughs to engulf the traveller, but boggy morasses where grows the spicy wintergreen with ruby beriy. Beechnuts and chestnuts to be had for the gathering, and lovely ferns with no rattlesnakes entwined about their roots as among the wild flowers of the prairie. Though by the roadside the sheep seek sustenance apparently from the gi-avel stones that thickly strew their paths, their bleat is reverberated across the waters from hill to hill and they are content in their native pastures. Though the luscious fruit when shaken from its parent stem, rolls a quarter of a mile distant, it makes all the more meiTiment for the eager urchins that stretch out their hands to stop its progress. Now I catch the first glimpse I have had for .years, of a hop yard, and I am can-ied back to those frosty mornings and sweltering days when 1 helped to pick the hops of my neighbors, acquiring such digestion thereby, it seemed as if I could never get satisfied with those palatable viands among which were delicious rice puddings, so thickly embellished with raisins that there was one ibr each mouthful.- If the fat hop- worms were the ugliest feature in the business, the hop dances were not among the least of the pleasures, but the crowning glory of the season was after our labors were o'er and the fragrant hops were all stored away in the kilns to dry, we took one farewell dance to the music of our favorite band, "The Whitmore's," and, at a late hour in the morning, departed for our several homes, rich in health and also having added something to our financial resources, the sum being according to the nimbleness of our fingers, however. We reach Sherlnirne at nightfall and after some waiting for the stage, we emliark in the primitive manner of the inhabitants of this jiortion of the country, ere the iron horse awoke its echoes. If we had feared for our personal safety before, when at the dead hour of night the cars had rushed through the blackness of deep woods and rocky caverns, or when on board the s' earners, we had shud- dered at the thought of a fearful explosion, that if it did not im- mediately land us in eternity would leave us helpless and drowning in the cold water — , what wei-e our imaginings now as we jolted over the stony road with the galloping horses, now on the verge of a ravine whose depths on this cloudy night seemed intenninable ; IIEAKT (;]{f:KTING8. 75 now toiling up some tedious hill, balafieed upon its top for a mo- ment and again dashing down its rough declivity or dai'ting over some rude bridge Avhose loose boards rose up as it' to otter an apology for its dilapidated state; these things we endured with only a whispered '"Oh!"' now and tlien by way of relief to our sur- charged feelings. Yet 1 can look back upon that seven miles ride with a degree of pleasure for at its termination I stepped under the roof that sheltered my nativity. 'Twas but a little hamlet where it rested, yet its picturesqueness could not be surpassed. Fortified on all sides by the stronghold of nature — her hills, guarded by files of forest giants — her trees, watered by the continued accumulation of the dew drops of heaven — her brooks and rills, inhabited by a peaceful God-fearing people, could one seek a more desirable spot in which to recuperate their expanded energies and throw off the fatigue consequent on a three weeks tour of the world? As the wheels of our vehicle rattle noisily over the gravelly road-bed they aroused the inmates of the little white cottages and lights appeared at the doors and windows and expeclUnt faces peered out into the darkness, for the good natured driver was always in readiness to perform en-ands for the more ambitious dwellers in this retired spot, and it was no unusual occurrence for a mysterious looldng package bearing the ear marks of a more pretentious railroad town, to be dropped into waiting hands and was sure to awaken the curiosity of the next neighbor. On the arrival of the stage coach, this evening, the bundles took a human shape and evidently were expected for no sooner did the rumble of the wheels cease, till a fair young face stood in the doorway and the most musical of voices gave us greeting — such a greeting as is found outside of all the shams of fashionable life — a heart-greeting that slunes from the eyes and such warm clasps of the hands that truthfulness lies in each pressure. A bright, warm fire shed a glow of comfoi-t around the spacious living room, and to our chilled limbs was most acceptable. The very air seemed to be filled with welcome written by the fingers of the firelight. The cheeiy clock ticked out the hour of nine as we ate our vesjier meal in the very room where my infant lite first received sustenance from the parent breast. Dear mothers! How much patience and suffering they endure for the sake of their offspring— suffering that is never understood till mature years bring its experience. The weariness attendant on the day's jouniey forbade nuich communion at that late hour, and we 76 TWELVK STATES AND A KINGDOM. wen' shown to a warm sleeping iipartnuiit witli a downy bed most inviting-. I conkl close my weary eyes, but not to sleep. Consider- ing the eventful place, sleep must be courted and a true lover's wooing I gave it, but the thirty odd years of my life each came in as a witness for a hean"ng and my cause was on trial far into the night. How much of my career fell far short of my approbation, and how I longed to live over some of my youthful days that I might profit by the experience of after life; and yet I had no dread- ful misgivings of conscience I'or 1 felt that my faults lay upon the surface, while within, 1 carried a loving heaii and a will, though sometimes obstinate, disposed, in the main to perfect obedience to the mild dictations of my parents. As my head rested on the soft pillow I thought of my indulgent father whose years were number- ed a few months before 1 had reached the first decade of my life. His thin, silvery locks seemed again to curl around my fingers as I tenderly smoothed them away from his white forehead and lovingly kissed the dear face that was ever full of affection for his "little daughter." Sitting in my ctiamber window I could follow the old. oft trodden path that led to his pkue of business where he retailed the little stock of provisions necessary to supply the humltle wants of each faniilj' in and around that isolated handet, and measured, yard by yard, the bright prints and rich silks and bombazins that were the pride of old and young hearts, following fashion's train. And the sweet, patient face of my mother came back to me, and 1 remembered well her resignation and trust in a Higher Power, when her earthly stay and sui)poi-t was taken from her. When in the prime of life, her ever busy hands had made tidy this little home and adorned it with all the skill of which she was capable. The attractions of her kitchen were its neatness and appetizing delicacies; those other parlor, its beauty and absence of all gaudi- ness. With a serenity of mind to be envied, she reigned queen over her household gods, beloved at home; respected abroad and no beggar departed from her door empty handed, and as I now kept nocturnal vigilance under the roof where she had cared for my many infantile wants, 1 thought it not improbable that the same spirit of wakefulness might be hovering over her couch miles and miles away in one of Wisconsin's shady glens and thoughts of her youngest bom, wandering i the old familiar places, were not absent from her vigils. The little town slumbered on so peace- fully. Most of its inhabitants were aged and with whitened locks, A POLAR NIGHT. ' 77 but steady step awaited calmly the summons that should take them hence to another haven of perfected rest. Though this quiet burg-h was not noted for being erected on the spot where were fought the battles of our forefathers, yet in former times, when these aged people were full of youth and before so many of their companions lay down to their long sleep, it was periodically agitated by politi- cal strife and natural gossip, bom of its inland position and for which there was ni outlet. But wei'e this a polar night, the three hundred and fifty-four and one-third hours of its length would be none too long in which to recapitulate the joys and sorrows of the past, and nature's restorer came at last and with it oblivion to earthly ruminations. CHAPTER XXI. 'RID AY morning was still dark with clouds and rain and we busied ourselves in re-arrangmg the much abused gannents in our trunks, givnig some of them a much needed bath to remove if possible some of "the clayey soil of the Keystone state that adhered with such tenaciousness. Voluble tongues kept pace the while with industrious hands as we converted ourselves into merry washerwomen. There was a fascination in the warm, sa,ponaceous suds and after three weeks of indolence, such vigorous exercise would promote digestion. Our appetites needed no awakening save that produced by those large, mealy potatoes so generously provided, and which we well appreciated after being treated to that soggy under -done vegetable we everywhere found at hotels. A potato to be eatable must have been made subject to sufficient he.it to cook it through, w.iich process invariably produces moali- 78 TWKf,VK STATES AM) A KIMiDOM. nes.s. SiiKC >!eein' after j'our ears shall have become deaf to the music of the little stream as it dashes alonf;: its narrow bed. Another Friday is with the past and at eventide I sit in the parlor of our hostess, and, accompanied by the piano, sing a dirge over the death of my childhood, my father and my youth's companions. CHAPTER XXIII. ^^ATURDAY, October seventh, was a dismal morning with j^^ its chilly wind and driving rain, but our projected tours could not be postponed, and after we have a warm eomljat with the smoothing iron for an hour or so, the faithful family horse is brought to the door, and undismayed by the unpropitious elements we drive over the hills for a day's visit with old friends. Such a warm welcome as we received everywhere is indescribable, and quite enough to keep our spirits up and hearts aglow despite the drenching storm that might well intimidate a more interpid trio. Elderly gentlemen and their honest wives embrace us cordially while the young Lambs of the flock are all innocence and sprightli- ness. There seemed to l)e a dirth of young men, and I do not remember to have seen but one young, immarried man during my four day's stay in Columbus. This Saturday's dinner table fairly groaned under its abundance of food and there was nothing to disturb our happiness but the thought of the impending parting. After music and song the good bye's were spoken and we departed feeling that we had left unsaid much that we intended to speak, but gratified with the sense of having been remembered evcm unto the years of womanhood. Sunday morn, October 8th, there was a fall of snnwHakes, prognosticators of the drifts of winter that were K v'-l'Y VALI.EY. 81 to till evciy lio'.low till (artli is one vast sheet of snow and the h'vel roiids have no boundaries for the fence-posts are encased in white mantles and their heads arc no Avhere to be seen. The faithful horse is again at the door, and, protected by water- 1 roof, blankets and ranbrella we bid defiance to wind and ■weather and journej' southward. A half mile's travel brings us to the grave of my father. Everything about the burial-i^lace besi'Oke neglect and decay, but the words inscribed on his tomb- stone "He lives in memory," are still true, for, as green as the myrtle I plucked from his grave, is the remembrance of oar paternal ancestor in the hearts of his children. We continue our journey for a distance of five miles when we reach the lovely village of New Berlin, with its wide streets and rows of shade trees and homelike dwellings, many of which combine elegance with simplicity. The joy of again meeting the dear aged face I sought, must be left for the next world, and disappointed we shape our course north-ward through the valley of the winding Una- dilla, each curve of the road displajang much sequestered loveli- ness, undisturbed by noise of steam or din of cities. After three miles more of travel we reach the spot above all others I longed most to see, not for its splendor, but "Fondest affection that binds me to thee, my old home, my dear happy home." When I was but five years of age my lather retired from mercantile life and invested his means in land. I thus became the daughter of a granger, though no such charming, fanciful appellation concealed the honorable avocation of farming in those good old daj^s. And now with the first familiar sight of this dear " Happy Valley, " my childhood came back to me and I was again a merry, romping child. Bjed to country life, I became one of nature's daughters, choosing my mates from among her true children; her leafy forest trees, her butter-cups and daisies, and golden dandelions, her clover blossoms, her limpid streams; all these iii summer. In winter I reveled in ice and snow and her barren trees were gaunt specters for the play of my imagination. Twenty years since I had bidden a tearful adieu to the old homestead. Did I find it much changed ? Yes, there was a change. The Aorfy Avas there — the spirit had flown. Though this cot in the valley I loved, still nestled under the hillside, and the little stream went murmuring onward to the river and thence to the sea; though cattle lowed upon the hilltops and the strong work horses renewed their vitality 11 8^ T\VKI,VK STATES AND A KIXGOOM. from the freslily niowii luciKldw lands, tliey wi^re not the same that years ago answered to my calls with looks of attection in tiieir mild eyes and that ate froni the store 1 so willingly set for them. Parents, brother, sisters, friends — all gone, and I gazed as doth a mounier o'er the dead, upon what once I fancied would be mine to enjoy perpetually. Alas! the precious soil was cultivated by strange hands. The old rooms that once echoed our laughter and songs, were now occupied and cared for by those to me unknown, and as I peered into each familiar corner there appeared to me ghosts of earlier years which my imagination clotlied with gar- ments ancient and unique, a supply ot which was ever kept in that glorious old place for solitude and rubbish, the gaiTct. With that word comes retrospection. With the bright sunshine of each May, came the yearly renovation of this dusty place, whose ceiling was festooned \vith many a cobweb; whose slanting w^alls were adorned with various weapons of domestic warfare; whose floor was covered with huge chests filled with wann, winter blankets. In one comer was a set of i)ewter dishes which with unuse were given to rust that doth corrupt. There was a heavy iron tea-kettle which my imagination always placed over a roaring fire in my grand-mother's kitchen before the days of modern cook stoves and the perplexities of choosing base- burners. How I used to sing as 1 brushed the dust from these relics of my predecessors, and the sound of my voice reverberated among the rafters and frightened the verj* rats from their dens and they went scampering and squealing to more remote comers while I went on with the rejuvenating of their winter quarters. I was always full of the cares of a mimic household, the concreteness of its members being made up of round pumpkins and crooked-necked squashes in summer, and rags and Viran the year througli. But one china doll ever came in my possession, and her smoothe, handsome physiog- nomy was far too nice for every day wear consequently I clung tenaciously to a huge rag-baby weighing some eight pounds, which was never griped with colic, for her digestive apparatus was of bran. Her cuticle, formed of the strongest muslin, never underwent that seven year's ordeal peculiar to childhood, that brings with it the sublime happiness of scratching, the sole cure for which is fire and brimstone. Her diet was of sufficient al)stem- iousness to suit the most persistent (Jrahamite. Her hair never gr.jw nuich and as such a thing as jute was unheard of in those MIMIC IIOUSKWIFKRY. 83 early days, ami false locks only worn by very aged people, 1 had to conceal her hereditary baldness with white lace caps which added to the attractiveness of her inki/ black eyes and cheeks rosy as the juice of juniper hemes. Such fancy toilets as were designed especially for her use would drive Worth distracted with envy. Size indicated nothing relative to the ages of my family. Curious people seldom had their inquisitiveness gratified when they sought to pry into my domestic arrangements. It was a. model family, fluctuating numericallj^ between six and a dozen, of all shapes and sizes, over which 1 was supreme head and ruler, and none dared question my management and the piu-fect control under which I held my willing subjects. Happy childhood, each child monarch of a realm over which he reigns with all the tyranny of a fabled giant, the story-book makes them acquainted with. That fell destroyer of domestic fowls, the peeps, made such havoc among my pet turkeys and chickens, and all superfluous kittens met with such untimely deaths by strangulation in the wash-tub, that it necessitateil ray choosing a burial place all silent and beautiful, befitting a necropolis. I selected a site in one corner of the orchard on ground gently sloo]>ing, near a rickety coni-crib — an emblem of decay — and noted more for remoteness th.in artistic beauty. A pearly brook chanted a requiem in the fence corners of my grave-yard and the old apple trees dropped their leaves in autumn as a winding sheet for the dead, while the ripe fruit rolled to the bottom of the hill, pausing not till it reached the stone wall, a solid barrier, preventing them from crossing the road and con- tinuing their course to the i-iver. But I must bid memory depart and recall the scenes of my journey as they occuiTed. I followed the well remembered path up the hillside and climbed the old familiar rock, upon whose summit I was wont to percii mj^self at the close of the summer days when I went in quest of the dear old Gows. There was no boundary to my vision till it encompassed many miles to the north and south. Its eastern and western boundary was abruptly terminated by hills one-half mile apart. This Sabbath day the clouds met with a momentary disperse- ment and the sun bathed Shacktown pond in a flood of amber light, and revealed the forests clothed with all the variegated hues of Autumn. Shacktown, though unromantic in name, was famous for luscious blackberries that grew there in great abund- ance, but after their gathering, so dense were the briars that 84 TWEIA'E STATKS AND . KIVGDOM. one's g'lirnii'nts were iipt to be tattered and torn liki:^ a V(nitable " shack," as tramps were then denominated. I watched the deep river windin<>- hke the letter "S " in its boundary of our m^'adow and I said to mj-self, here I have raked the frajfrant hay — there dropijed the yellow kernels of corn — here gathered the sweet, red apples; there the bountifully yielding potatoes. Some spots were reminders of childhood's griefs; others of extremest joy. I seemed to have lived years in the two hours spent in roaming over this, to me, hallowed ground. But when I was seated at the dinner table standing as it did in the same old spot, seated in my father "s accustomed place, a great longing came over me to be re-united to my kindred, united just as we used to be, and it wa^ with the utmost eftbrt that I suppressed the sacred tears I cai'ed not to shed before the eyes of strangers. Farewell, my little valley home! Childhood was the charm that bound me to thee and that charm is broken. 1 have never fancied a home upon the hilltops. I want to dwell at their base and receive shelter and protection from wind and storm; but I may nevermore hope for a fruition of my longings. Though the light of the Orient crowned my infancy, the spirit of progress is within me and the far outstretching plains lure me on. Already they have ushered in. and thus far protected my womanhood and the remainder of my life, like the setting sun, must declare westward. And now before I close my eyes, perhaps forever, upon the sweet content and unsurpassed loveliness resting in this secluded vale, 1 will make an everlasting sepulcher fo the early griefs and joys, struggles and achievements of my youth. Some I will cast into the deep, deep waters of the Unadilla; for some 1 will dig a grave at the roots of the sacharine maple that used to pour forth its sweetest sap to moisten my young lips; some shall, rest on the hilltop; some in the valley; some at the brooklet's side; but for every wayward deed, duties omitted and sins committed, let me dig a grave wide and deep under my mothers bedroom window where 1 have so often rocked my inani- mate progeny, and there in deep penitence make a sacred inter- ment, that when future trials and temptations beset me, I may think on this little mound covering my misdeeds and childish de- partures from rectitude, and profiting by dearly bought experience, avoid the necessity of a future erection of a maussoleum over hopes blasted and opportunities wantonly neglected. But Oh! the holiest remembrances of my youth, those early lessons of piety and mo- CHKNANGO COUNTY. 85 rality made efficacious by the exemplary conduct of my parents, let me cany ihi-m ever with me, antl when the sun of my life shall set, to rise no more, may the effect of abiding- by such pi-ecepts and example, surround my bier with a halo of sweet and tender recol- lections. Farewell! farewell! CHAPTER XXIV. ^JM W, county of my birth, Chenang-o, is separated from OtsegO ^^i^ county on the p]ast by the Unadilla river. Its rocks and hills and fertile valleys make a diversity of scenery more pleasant to look upon with an artistic eye, than with ag-ricultural intentions. What is once produced from the stony soil, is preserved with great pains and the least of its products is not allowed to go to waste. Every stalk of corn is carefully cut and shocked and after being- husked, the golden ears are stowed away with scarcely the loss of a single kernel, and the stalks are properly stacked for winter fod- der for the cattle. The pro\adent farmer always has shelter for his animals during the cold season, and no shivering, half-starved brutes are seen leaning against an apology for a barn, constructed of four perpendicular posts and four horizontal beams on which are laid loose boards covered with wild prairie grass — the model stable of the West. Such catastrophie's are not infrequent as the over- turning of a loaded wagon on one of the steep hillsides under cultivation, but though the result may be a complete demolition of vehicle and grain and an extinguishment of the life of the horses, such land disasters are counterbalanced by the natural longevity of the inhabitants of a climate abounding in a salubrious, invigoi'ating atmosplicre. The little village of South Edmeston, Otsego county, New York, consists of a. few pretentious dwellings, a hotel, a store or two, a small school house which answers the place of seminaiy, 86 TWKl.VK STATKS ANO A KINliDOM. cluirch, lecture room or opera; a romantic old mill and an inevi- table blacksmith's shop. This was our nearest town and trading point and is situated " over the river " a* we were wont to locate it, and was a mile and a half from oiir f;irm. Crossing the beatiful Unadilla from the West, we come upon this lovely nook, fit resort for Summer's fairies iind Winter's frost kings. The Eastern hills, covered with beech, pine and chestmit, tower as on impregnable fortress over this little village as if to protect it from Turkish inva- sion. During the period of years from 1S50 to 185G I remember it as a place of men-iment and also many an intellectual feast. The weather-beaten school house, (which was out of our district and therefore only frequented by me as a visitor) often rung with the well-merited applause given the miniature actors as they in turn represented a Caesar, a William Tell, a Deacon Homespun. Here were held de')ates participated in by our local intellectual lights which were of no inferior order. The eloquence of T. J. Smith en- tranced his hearers during a course of lectures given under this lowly roof. Though his voice to earth is silent, I feel that he still moves on in that bright Beyond, his teachings did more to unfold to me, than those of any other minister of the gospel I have since listened to. I remember his promises to watch over the weary ones of earth. Have our giant doubts deterred him from a fulSllra^ut of those vows, or is he silently keeping vigil over our lives an 1 waiting to receive us in that better land whose glories he so well knew how to protray. Aft