Class F-2itt Book ^S:^ Gopyiight N°_ . COPVRIGHT DEPOSrr THE History of Springfield in Massachusetts FOR THE YOUNG BEING ALSO IN SOME PART THE HISTORY OF OTHER TOWNS AND CITIES IN THE COUNTY OF HAMPDEN BY CHARLES H. BARROWS >ni»iiiiiii«iiiiiijii|||iiiiiiiiiriiiini)iiiii\ii »n((ii)iii((ii)iiiii)iiiwiui)iWHJiumii«uiiHiMiiiniiiiiiim\« PUMLISHED BY The Connecticut Valley Historical Society Springfield, Massachusetts 1909 ^^\ s« 6^ Copyright iQOg By Connecticut Valley Historical Society LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Comes Received APR 3 lyoa _ CopyrltfBt Entry ^ OlA^iS Ol. ''^^C, No, 2,3 5 SDC TO THE CHILDREN AND YOUTH OF SPRINGFIELD AND THE Neighboring Towns and Cities THIS BOOK written that they may know what is interesting good and true in the lives of those who have gone before them in this part of the connecticut valley IS DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR CONTENTS CHAPTER I— Pages 1-20 Geological History of Springfield and Its Neighborhood. The Lay OF THE Land and the Run of the Water. Poem: To the Connecticut River CHAPTER II.— Pages 21-40 The Settlement. The Smithy. The Meeting-House. Poem: The Works of God. CHAPTER III.— Pages 41-58 The Early Government. The Pynchon Family. Witchcraft. CHAPTER IV.— Pages 59-70 King Philip's War and its Causes. Battles and Burnings in the Connecticut Valley. Poem: The Statue of the Puritan in Merrick Park. CHAPTER v.— Pages 71-86 King Philip's War Concluded. The Burning of Springfield. Captain Holyoke and the Falls Fight. Close of the War. CHAPTER VI.— Pages 87-102 Settlement of Chicopee and Other Towns. The Revolution. CHAPTER VII.— Pages 103-112 Shays' Rebellion. The Constitution. 1783-1789. CHAPTER VIII.— Pages 113-130 Old Times and New. The Change to Modern Ways. The First Steamboat. The Armory. Distinguished Visitors. Poem: The Arsenal at Springfield. CHAPTER IX.— Pages 131-144 The New City. Anti-Slavery. The Civil War. CHAPTER X.— Pages 145-166 A Look Backwards. The Spanish War. The Twentieth Century. Anniversary Hymn. The Founder of Springfield. CHAPTER I. GEOLOGICAL HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD— THE LAY OF THE LAND AND THE RUN OF THE WATER. The Site of SpRiNtiFiELD as thi; SPRINGFIELD is located on the bank of a fine river. It is true that the river is not deep enough for any but the smaller craft, but in the summer many pleasure boats skim over its surface. The city itself, as seen on the approach from the west or south, with the broad river in the foreground, NATURAL FEATURES 3 and its buildings rising on gradually retreating terraces, all embowered in foliage, is, indeed, as was said of an ancient city, "beautiful for situation." Before the days of railroads, or even of good wagon roads, the river was of great consequence to Springfield in the way of commerce. It was by the river that the early settlers got their beaver skins and other goods to market, floating them down the stream and thence by sea to Boston. In the summer the river helps to cool the heated air. From the city to its source, near the Canadian border it is about three hundred and seventy miles and from the railroad bridge in Springfield to the lighthouse at the river's mouth seventy- one and a half miles more. The Agawam, which beyond Mittineague is called the Westfield, is one of its principal tributaries. While its name divides into three English words, this is a mere accident, yet it does cut in two New Hampshire and VeiTnont and the eastern and western portions of Massa- chusetts and Connecticut. The Indians named the stream and in their language Connecticut means "the long river." This is but one of many Indian names that belong to the locality of Springfield, some of which are in use today, like Pecowsic, Nayasset, Chicopee and Agawam. Mittineague was in Indian Menedgonuk, but has been worn by usage into the smoother form. The Indian place-names which are left to us in New England, like Wallamanumps, Massacksick, (Long- meadow) and Massachusetts are not so musical as those in the language of the western tribes, like Cayuga, Shiawassee and Minnehaha; but they all have a meaning which is worth finding out. Besides her share in "the great river," as the English settlers called it, Springfield has also a river almost all her own, a little one, indeed, but just big enough to be called by that HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD name. Its sources are at the foot of the Wilbraham moun- tains whence it flows by its north branch and south branch till these meet at the Watershops pond. After tumbling over two dams below the point of union the river loses itself in the Connecticut, near York street. It was so useful in the earliest times of the white settlers in grinding all the grain and sawing all the lumber that they thought "Mill River" a good and honorable name, and if those who come after us are sensible, by that name it " will always be , known. It still turns the great vvheel at the vVatershops and thus has a hand m making the 1 ifles of the United States army. Next to Mill river, the stream that has been most important in the town's history, excei)t the Chicopee, or rivers that are no longer in the limits of Springfield, was the "Town brook." The Town brook, called in its upper part "Garden brook," rises to the east of St. James avenue bridge and flowing down the valley, formerly divided near the comer of Spring and Worthington streets, one branch going north and circling to the north of Round Hill on its way to the river, Mill River at the Watekwuops. From "Marco Paul at the Springfield Armory," by Jacob Abbott, 1853. NATURAL FEATURES 5 while the other branch reached Main street, near Worthing- ton, and flowed along the easterly side of the street, which it crossed near York street and thence entered the river. But the waters of the once famous " Town brook" are now diverted into sewers, where they do a very useful, if very dirty work. The brook as it flowed by Main street was once a clear, good stream in which to fish. Such has been also the doom of other pretty rural brooks that once flowed among grassy banks from the slopes of the higher lands in now thickly settled parts of the city. Some of them, before the days of steam, were ponded by dams in order to create power for small factories. One of these ponds covered the region of Avon Place. There is a little brook which even today rises not far from the comer of State and Walnut streets and flows, for its whole course, unseen to the river, passing on its way just in front of the High School. It once formed the "Card Factory" pond and turned the wheels of a factory east of the Wesson Hospi- tal. But in dry times the little brook was not able to do all the work required of it; so it was helped by a huge mastiff, who was made to walk in a treadmill and thus by the brook and the mastiff together, was the machinery kept going, a singular example of manufacture by dog power. Springfield has even yet some share in the Chicopee river, which touches its northeastern border, and to it Indian Orchard owes its importance. There are a number of natural ponds, mostly fed by unseen springs. They either have an outlet under ground, or else the water flowing in is so nicely balanced by the water passing into the air by evaporation that they need no outlet. Where this balance is destroyed by the lessening of the supply of water, as by the cutting of trees, the pond diminishes in size and incidentally peat is formed. An example may be seen HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD on the Wilbraham road beyond the North Branch. Goose pond, at first called Swan pond, because of the swans that stopped there on their spring and autumn journeys, was the very largest pond, and stretched northward from Winchester square. It was built over not many years ago. Two Mile pond seems likely .-". to meet the same ^. ..-:."...• fate. Five Mile pond, named from its distance from Main street, is divided by the rail- road. Island pond, so called from its single island , a floating bog, is nearer, but little known. Loon pond is a pretty sheet of water and Venturer's pond is a pleasing feature of Sixteen Acres. The Sixteen Acres mill pond is perhaps a natural pond caused by a rock dam. In all there are ten natural ponds. The map accompanying this chapter shows the natural features and localities as they were in the days of the original settlers of Springfield. Before describing the lay of the land it is necessary to know something of its history; how in the story of the earth's making it came to be just what it is, its rocks and soil, its hills and valleys. To do this takes us back, perhaps, millions of years; for man's history is as nothing compared with that of the rocks. Deep down below the earth's surface lies the real floor on which all things above may be said to rest. It is composed of the strongest and oldest of the rocks, called crys- talline. It was by the action of earth's great fires, melting and fusing together the original raw materials of the world, NATURAL FEATURES 7 that the crystalHne rocks were made. Look at a block of granite and you will find it made up of several things that could only have been got together by fire. Although crystalline rocks lie at the bottom, the}^ have sometimes got pushed up by the mighty forces of nature and so have made mountains. If you climb mountains even no higher than those surrounding Springfield, and find an exposed surface, you will come upon the hard rocks out of which they are built. In the valley they are not seen because of the over- lay of later rock and soil. Underneath Hampden county lies ■a, bed of gneiss, a rock resembling granite. It is quarried in Monson and out of its blocks the Court House and Hall of Records have been constructed. After this solid old floor of gneiss was laid down, some very interesting things happened in this part of the Connecticut Valley, the story of which only the student of geology can fully appreciate; but something of it may be told here. There was, first, the rising of the mountains; the easterly range running between Wilbraham and Monson and the westerly, through Blandford and other towns. This rising made the present Connecticut Valley. Then the whole valley between these mountains, extending as far north as Greenfield, sank below the level of the ocean and of course the salt water flowed in. On the heights of the present Wilbraham, Bland- ford and other towns where the highlands penned the waters in, the tide rose and fell and the sea fishes, perhaps whales and sharks, could swim from East Longmeadow to Holyoke and beyond. In those times sand and mud were being carried down by the Connecticut river from the northern mountains in a way which will be described further on, and dropped in the bottom and on the shores of this inland sea. Reptiles and ^eat birds walked on the shore. In the end this sand hardened 8 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD and became a rock called sandstone, having sometimes im- printed in it the footsteps of these living beings. Sometimes too, raindrops left their marks in the sand and the raindrops and tracks have remained to tell a very old story in after ages. Specimens like that on this page may be seen in the Science Museum ; but the best collection is in the museum of Amherst College. It is this ancient sandstone, called by geologists, triassic, which is taken from the quarries of East Longmeadow. .^ ^ { '^ J /-^ FoOTI'RINT AND RaINPRINT.4 IN THK ThIASSK SANDSTONE OF THE Connecticut River. It was while the water extended from the Wilbraham mountains to the Blandford range that a great event happened a few miles from Springfield, caused by tlie action of sub- terranean fires. A great crack opened in the eartli and up rushed a mass of melted matter which finally cooled into the hardest kind of rock, a rock called trap. This rock formed Mount Tom and Mount Holyoke and all the range southerly which makes the line between West Springfield and Westfield. Again the earth opened and the molten volcanic matter thrown up at this time, a smaller mass than the other, formed a low NATURAL FEATURES and short range of hills extending through the western part of West Springfield and Agawam. The volcanic rock can be seen exposed to view in the trap rock quarries; also in the railroad cut between Tatham and Paucatuck in West Spring- field. Out of it is made the macadam for the streets. At the northern part of these breakings forth of earth's sub- terranean fires, there was a small volcano which probably continued fuming after the range of hills, whose making was connected with it, had been formed. The remains of the crater of this long ex- tinct volcano can still be seen, not far from Titan's pier at the foot of Mount Holyoke. It was after this that, in an era not so very far from our own, perhaps, another one of Nature's great forces, not directly fire or water, but connected with both in its origin, set itself in operation to make changes in the SUr- volcano Wokk: Map by William Orh. face of the earth in this neighborhood, and indeed, over a large part of North America. This was the Great Glacier, a sheet of ice that, starting in the Arctic regions, probably Labrador, ex- tended, in some places, half a mile thick all down the continent to a line drawn a good deal south of Springfield. Half a mile measures the distance from Court Square to the lower Armory 10 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD gate on State street. The glacier was, as all glaciers are, really a great ice river; for it flowed slowly southward, bend- ing itself to go between the mountains in its course and bear- ing the fragments along with it. These fragments, when the glacier finally melt- ed, were dropped in places far away from their starting point and are now ^^^^^ called boulders. In ''yz^ some places they are lif^ thickly strewn, but "^are not so common \in the immediate valley, for reasons that we shall see. One of them, how- ever, now making a memorial stone on Benton Park, was found on the highlands near Brush Hill in West Springfield. The mountains, composed of the hard crystalline rocks, like the White mountains, and of trap, like Mount Tom, stood firm against the grinding power of the glacier, but many of the hardened deposits of sandstone were worn down. We cannot always tell just what damage was done to the sand- stone by the glacier and just what by the wearing of it away by the waters; but if you notice how high Mount Sugarloaf stands above the meadows of South Deerfield and Sunderland, and even how the sandstone hill at the south end of Main street is higher than the land around it, you will see how much bed-rock has been carried off to Connecticut which was once Boulders Dropped by a Glacier and Water-Worn Cobblestones. NATURAL FEATURES 11 alongside. This bed-rock, broken up fine, as it would be by gradual water wear, makes the red earth so common in Suffield, Hartford and other Connecticut towns. It is some of Massa- chusetts that went down stream. At Locust street the sand- stone is close to the surface and the sewer is cut in the solid rock which extends southerly from a comer of the South Main street school. When the great glacier melted away it left a big pond bottom stretching from j\Iiddletown in Connecticut on the south to Holyoke on the north, easterly to the Wilbraham and west as far as the range of hills that separates West Springfield from Westfield. This big bottom became filled with water and is known to geologists as the Springfield lake. For a long time this lake remained. When you leave Court Square for Holyoke in the street cars your course is along the old lake bottom, the banks on either side being in plain view, until you reach the top of the bank itself at the Holyoke City Hall. The powerful current of the Connecticut, entering the lake at the gap between Mount Holyoke and Mount Tom, as also Chicopee river coming down from the northeast, made important changes in the lake bottom. What were they? Away to the north were the mountains of crystalline rocks, the White mountains and the Green mountains. Heat, cold and frost were slowly w^earing them away. Pebbles and sand came from them and fell into the little streams that ran among the hills. These pebbles and sand were carried down- ward by the streams into the great river. The river carried them into the great Springfield lake and gradually they were dropped on the bottom. If the current was powerful it carried the pebbles further; if it lacked, then not so far: the sand being lighter, would always go further than the pebbles. We 12 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD have called the large pieces of rock, pebbles; but when they started on the southern journey they were rough edged. By tumbling over each other in their downward course they became rounded into pebbles. It was because this process, was kept up for ages that the crystalline rocks underneath Springfield are covered deep with something quite different. Where the pebbles fell in masses they made gravel beds, the like of which can be seen on the line of the railroad, not far from Oak Grove cemetery. But the history of the sand dropping is the more interest- ing. Remember that, when the flow of water was swift and strong, the lighter grains went on and only the heavier ones, were dropped. When the current slackened, the heavier grains stopped further up stream and the lighter ones in the- spot where the larger ones were at first. So we expect to find layers of sand of varying thicknesses, one or the other, according as the current was swift or slow. Sometimes the sand varies in color, as underneath Maple- avenue in the Peabody cemetery. The children who dis- covered this by digging holes to China called one layer of it. "fireman's sand," for its red color. In fact Armory Hill, extending for miles east, is covered with sand of varying sized grains. On the brow of the hill at Union street the grains, exposed in building are coarse and good for mortar; a little distance east, on Walnut street, they are finer and not so good for this purpose. After you have noticed these different kinds, of sand, look at one of the great stone posts at the gates of the Armory and you will find that it is composed of just such sand, only the mass of grains is compacted into stone, the color of which is a brown red. This post was taken out of the- quarries of Longmeadow, where the sand droppings of a time long before the period of the great glacier had been pressed NATURAL FEATURES 13 into stone by the great weight above them, making a stone or rock called sandstone. Some sandstone is red and some is brown, and it is called sedimentary, because made out of the sediment, or settlings, of water. Sometimes the mixture of sand and mud (the mud was only a wet mass of grains so fine as to be almost unnoticeable) did not harden enough to make sandstone but only got pressed into a shelly state that was almost and yet not quite stone. This substance is called shale and mav be seen in a bank at the foot of Walnut ___.^^^ street. When the masses ^x^-Y GOVERNMENT —THE PYNCHON FAMILY— WITCHCRAFT. WE HAVE already seen that the meeting-house was the town house as well as the church; here the men of the plantation met to arrange all its business. One who did not come or who was late had a fine to pay. Even Deacon Chapin was fined for an absence, such was the import- ance which the forefathers placed upon a careful attention to public affairs. In our own day the President of the United States has often set the example for others by leaving his 42 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD pressing duties at Washington and travelling many hundred miles, in order to cast his vote, a vote that counted among the thousands no more than any other. After eight years the plantation decided to place its affairs in the hands of a committee, a committee which should be chosen once a year; so they selected Henry Smith, Thomas Cooper, Samuel Chapin, Richard Sikes and Henry Burt, to serve for the first year. They were called "select townsmen" or "selectmen" and were given power "to order anything that they shall judge best for the good of the town." After that the voters generally met only once or twice a year. Some of the declared duties of the selectmen were to lay out public highways, make bridges, repair highways, see to the scouring of ditches, to the killing of w^olves, and to the training of children in some good calling. Some of these duties, like the laying out of streets, still belong to the city council and some have become obsolete. It seems odd to read about the scouring of ditches, for ditches are more used in the old countries, especially in Holland, for the dividing of lots, than here ; but it was necessary to keep the town brook clean, for in it the villagers washed their fresh-killed beef and pork, and from it, to some extent, they probably got water for domestic purposes. For two centuries the town brook was a very useful institution and deserves to be remembered. The selectmen were especially charged with the killing of wolves, for these were a great trouble, howling and hungry when their food w^as scarce and picking up cattle and stray pigs that happened to be in the outlands. The town owned a wolf trap. Its stout jaws, hidden by a screen of leaves, when stepped on by the unwary animal, would come together with a powerful snap and hold him by the leg. He could be THE SETTLEMENT 43 baited by a bleating lamb as in the picture. Another scheme was to so adjust a gun that it would go off when the wolf stepped on a certain spot, to get the bait of meat; but occa- sionally an innocent cow got killed instead of the wolf. A large reward, ec^ual in money of today to about ten dollars, was paid by the town for every wolf killed and the slayer had to bring the ears, or the head or the tail of the beast to the selectmen for proof. In those days children were more disturbed \\-ith stories about wolves than bears, but when in later years, the wolves had been killed off, bears began to be troublesome, for they liked pig pork, butchered by themselves, too well; so a reward was offered for bears and also for catamounts or panthers. It was not only the wild animals that the select- men had to look after. Everybody kept pigs and the porkers were always watching for a chance to roam about and root up pastures and break through fences with their strong snouts. In the fall they were looking for acorns, just as they do now in the southern states. So the town ordered that they should wear a yoke and have a ring in the nose. It must have been difficult to make a yoke stay on a pig and manv were careless about it; so John Stewart, the blacksmith, was given power to catch every stray pig that was not yoked and rung, and then having put a yoke on his neck and a ring in his nose, to collect pay of 44 HISTORY OF SPUING FIELD the owner. A man who looked after swine in this way was called a hogreeve and for a long period hogreeves were annually chosen. There were also officers called field drivers, who were to take to the town pound any horse or cow- found straying, especially if doing damage. The pound was on the northwestern part of what is now Court Square and w-as in charge of a pound-keeper. In after years it was on the spot where now Pleasant street is located. Another duty of the selectmen was that of perambulation. Perambulation is a very long word for a very long walk which is sometimes necessary in order to set right the bound- ary lines of a town. In our time, upon every road leading out of Springfield, except where the boundary is a river, may be found a substantial stone, marking the division between the city and the next town ; but in early times the lines were marked in a very rude way and on the occasion of one perambu- lation the book of the town records reads that "we first marked a little white oak by a pine stump, then next the bottom of the hill we marked a pine staddle and laid stones upon a rock and just over the brook we marked an ash staddle and then next a pine tree standing on the south side of the county road and laid a heap of stones on a flat rock in the road." This custom, known as "beating the bounds," the settlers brought from the old country where perambulation from very ancient days had been attended with great ceremony. The lord of the manor, with a large banner borne before him. priests in white gowns and with crosses carried aloft and others with bells and banners, followed by many people, walked in procession around the bounds of the entire parish, singing and stopping to take refreshments and having a gala time generally. The procession kept to the exact bounds through fields and even directly through a dooryard, or THE SETTLEMENT 45 even a house, if it stood on the hne. If a river formed the boundary, the procession walked along the shore, while some of the party stripped off their clothes and swam alongside, or, if the stream was navigable, some persons rowed along in boats. Sometimes boys were thrown into it at certain places. When a wall, or tree, or post was near the line, boys were swung against it and bumped. These were called "bumping places" and when the boys became old men their testimony, as to the location of the line, was considered especially valuable, as to any point where they had been bumped. PeramVjulation of town boundaries is still the law in Massachusetts; but the towns were too large and the people too full of serious work for ceremony and the woods and swamps too numerous to make perambulation anything more than an occasional attempt to see that the bounds were all right. In the beginning of the previous chapter it was said that William Pynchon was the founder of Springfield and that he was good, and wise and kind. We must now return to him. While John and Mary Pynchon are growing up to manhood and womanhood, he has remained the chief man of the planta- tion. He was the richest man in it, in fact, the only man who had any considerable wealth. He had the most land and the most cattle. Of the cattle, Mrs. Pynchon took the immediate charge, and if she was like many farmers' wives of the early times, she had a good many cows to milk with her own hands and some of the churn- ing to do. Her husband, though a planter, was more prominently a mer- chant and had to spend much time in fur trade with the Indians and seeing 46 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD to the importation from Boston or Europe of things that the settlers needed and could not make. Besides, he owned the mills which ground the com and sawed the logs on Mill river. And then, again, he was obliged to spend much time in the public service, because he was the man best fitted to do it, as everybody acknowledged. He was the judge before whom all the people brought their disputes for trial at law. He was. a member of the General Court, which met at Boston and made laws for the whole colony. Although he lived away up here, several days' journey through the woods from Boston, he was held responsible, as treasurer of the colony, for whatever money belonged to the Colonial government. It is a very important fact that the Indians, who, if they had been wrongfully treated might have caused much trouble, found in him one who would do exact justice between them and the whites. For fear of him as a judge, an Indian feared to wrong a white man and because of him and his just ways, in trade they liked to deal with the white man. Pynchon feared no man ; but he feared God and was a man of good will toward men. When the people met for town business it was he who was always chosen to preside. He lived in a wooden house on the spot which would now be the corner of Main and Fort streets and next north was the house of his trusted friend, Thomas Cooper. Posterity is fortunate in the existence of a portrait of him, painted from life. It is now in the Essex Institute, at Salem. He is the only citizen of Springfield, in its first century, the likeness of whose face is known. Like many good men who are called upon, by their high position, to do difficult things and sometimes to oppose the wishes of other people in doing them, there were those who did not understand and admire William Pynchon. But they THE PYNCHON FAMILY 47 did not live in Springfield. Some of them lived in Hartford. At a certain time, when grain was very scarce, it was necessar}' for the people of Hartford, Windsor and this plantation to buy com of the Indians. Mr. Pynchon was given power, by all the towns of the valley below, to buy com for them all at a certain price and if he could not buy it at the price, to offer more. The Indians held off and would not sell at a price that was reasonable. Mr. Pynchon did not buy; he thought it not best that the Indians should know of the weakness of the colonists; and he did not wish to disturb the market price for com, feeling that this would be bad, not only for his own trade with them in the future, but for all the colonists. He believed in suffering some present loss, in order to keep a lasting gain. The people of Springfield believed with him, but those of Hartford did not. Both towns were suffering for lack of grain, and the cattle were getting poor, — Mr. Pynchon's, like those of everybody else. Still Pynchon stood firm. He felt that the white man must be firm and self- sufficient in presence of the savage; and there were Indians up and down the valley who had done much injury to the whites in the Pequot war and might, and in fact did, later, do more. Connecticut had conquered the Indians with the sword, but Pynchon believed in the arts of peace. He believed in suffering for the sake of peace; in getting people to do the things they ought to or the things that one wants them to do, of their own free will and not by force. Springfield was more exposed to dangers of the Indians and to the evil results of disturbing the regular course of trade with them than Hartford. So Springfield and Hartford differed about this matter and Hartford sent up Captain Mason, a famous Indian fighter, with money in one hand and sword in the other, as it were. 48 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD He was ready to give a higher price for the corn or to fight the Indians if they would not sell. They felt obliged to yield. Mr. Pynchon suffered many hard words from Hartford and Windsor about the matter, but Massachusetts stood by him, as especially did his own town, and in his honor the name of the plantation was changed from Agawam to Springfield, which was the name of his old home in England. In the parish church of old Springfield may be seen an ancient tablet bearing his name as one of the church wardens. After this Mr. Pynchon again found himself in difficulties with the neighboring colony. That colony had a fort at the mouth of the river, kept for protection against the Indians and Dutch, and insisted that Pynchon 's boats should pay toll when they passed it. The tolls were to go towards its maintenance. This Mr. Pynchon would have been willing to do if both Massachusetts and Connecticut could have had control of the fort ; but he did not relish the idea of taxation without representation, an idea against which all the colonies afterwards revolted and thus brought on the Revolution. So he refused to pay toll. Massachusetts stood by him and required a toll on Connecticut ships sailing into Boston harbor. Then Connecticut gave way. But now came real trouble for William Pynchon ; for even Massachusetts, except Springfield, turned against him. Wil- liam Pynchon was not only a man of wisdom and peace but of godliness. For this reason he thought and studied much on the goodness of God to his children and the duty that they owed to Him. He loved and studied the Bible and had his own thoughts about it. Here in his house on Main street he wrote a book which he got printed in London and which gave his thoughts on these things. It was called "The Meritorious Price of Our Redemption." THE PYNCHON FAMILY 49 Some copies of this book came to America and three copies are still in existence, one of them in the Boston Athenaeum. Because this book was, in some respects, contrary to the opinions then held, it caused much excitement, particularly in Boston and the neighboring towns. The General Court condemned it. By order of this court the book was publicly burned in Boston and its author remo\'ed from his position of judge at Springfield. »f'-r>r' HlKNlNC. oh P\N 1831, but nothing remains of these relics of the past, except a box made from the wood of the wooden house and a hinge from one of its doors. These are the property of the Con- necticut Valley Historical Society. Major Pynchon. honored and loved, lived to a good old age and died in 1703. A good picture of liis house is given on this page in the book plate of the Historical Society. The view behind the house as in old times takes in the river and the West Springfield meadows. Besides the Indian and the Puritan, the steeple of the First church is seen from another point of view, with Mount Tom in the distance. The plate was designed by Clare (lardncr, once a pupil of the S])ringfiel(l schools. CHAPTER IV. KING PHILIP'S WAR AND ITS CAUSES.— BATTLES AND BURNINGS IN THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY. UP TO the time at which we have now arrived there had been peace between the colonies of Massachusetts Bay and Plymouth on the one hand and the various Indian tribes on the other. In the Connecticut colony there had been a war so bitterly waged by the whites, aided by their allies, the Mohegan Indians, that it had resulted in the utter destruc- tion of the Pequot tribe. The Pequot war happened about the time of the settle- ment of Springfield and though it made the settlers in this part of the valley very cau- tious in dealing with the In- dians, and taught them that they lived in the midst of danger, yet nothing hostile occurred. Massasoit, the fa- mous chief of the Wampa- noags, was a neighbor of the Plvmouth colonists and had always been their friend. The Narragansetts, wlio lived in Rhode Island, influenced by the good will of Roger Wil- liams for them, liad kept the peace after the close of the Pequot war. King Philip. From "Indian History for YounK Folks" Francis S. Drake. Copyright 1884 by Harper and Bros. by 60 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD The tribes of the interior,— those Hving in what is now Worcester county and in that part of the valley extending from Hartford to Northampton, — were known by the general name of Nipmucks or " fresh water" Indians. They were small tribes, apparently independent of each other, and having each a chief, or sachem, who was advised by a few others of the most knowing of the tribe called Sagamores. The Indians who lived at the mouth of the Agawam, and had their fort, where, perhaps, they spent the winter, on Long Hill, were called the Agawams. They were about two hundred in number and their sachem was Wequogan. It was only natural that when the whites of these colonies were so few in number they should make every effort to make friends with the Indians. Possessed as they were with fire- arms and the arts of civilization they were but weak, living in a wilderness among so many savages. Besides, they were taught by their religion that the Indian was a brother man to whom it was their duty to bring the blessings of the white man's religion. There were men like John Eliot and Daniel Brainerd, who suffered great hardships and underwent much toil in order to get the Indians to accept Christianity. In fact they were reasonably successful, for in fifty years after the Pilgrims had landed on Plymouth rock, there were as many as two thousand "praying Indians." Some of these were sincerely religious but all were called "praying Indians" who had begun to desert savage life and attached themselves in friendship and service to the whites, showing a willingness to leani the civilized way of living. They afterwards showed their good will by taking English names. There was, for example, in the Plymouth colony an Indian named Toto, who went by the name of Sam Barrow, probably because of his friendly KING PHILIP'S WAR 61 connection with a family of that name. Massasoit took his two boys, Wamsutta and Metacomet, to the governor, re- questing that they be given EngUsh names. They were therefore named respectively, Alexander and Philip. It was this Philip who figures so largely in this and the succeeding chapter. But, sad to relate, not all the whites were good to the Indians. Many bad men came to America and settled in the colonies. William Pynchon and his companions realized what might be the evil results of this in various ways and for many years no one was allowed to settle in Springfield who was not acceptable to the town. For a new settler someone had to become responsible that he would behave himself. In the seacoast towns this was not so easy. Consequently troubles arose and the whites sometimes bore themselves proudly towards the Indians. This, of course, irritated the Indians, for they felt that they had courteously allowed the whites to settle in their country and were entitled to respectful treatment. Here is an example of what happened. There was a sachem named Squando, chief of the Soko- nokis and a man of nobility and character. One day his wife was paddling down the river Saco in a canoe with her infant child. Some English sailors, coming along in a boat, said that they had heard that Indian children could swim like young ducks, and proceeded to upset the canoe. The child sank, at once, to the bottom of the river; the mother, by diving, brought it up, but although alive, it died shortly after. This, of course, was an extreme case but it illustrates the%vicked way in which the more ignorant or grosser members of a superior race sometimes look down upon and annoy those of a weaker race. 62 HIS'] ORY OF SPRINGFIELD There were also, on the part of the Indians, those things that annoyed the whites. The Indians were inclined to thiev- ing; neither did they feel the importance of telling the truth. A long training in civilized life had taught the whites that truth telling is not only right but that without it business cannot well go on. The mind of a savage does not understand this ; so that, as was said by Mr. Moxon, the first minister of this town, "An Indian's promise is like taking a pig by the tail." But without regard to the right and the wrong in the character of the white man or the red man, there was another cause, perhaps enough in itself, to lead at some time to a union of Indians against the whites, provided any leader should appear great enough to unite them. The whites came more and more to possess the land. It is true that they bought it of the Indians and at a price that seemed fair to both parties ; but, all the same, the Indians saw their hunting grounds dis- appearing and the game growing more scarce. They were trained to hunt and not to dig ; all the com was raised by the women. Besides, if the praying Indians kept on increasing, the true glory, as they understood it, of the Indian character would be gone. No more war; no more scalping; no more of that wild life which they so thoroughly enjoyed. Instead of Indian braves there would only be peaceable Indian farmers. Today there are, on the Indian reser\'ations, farmers, pros- perous and happy, having pianos and sewing machines in their comfortable homes; but an Indian, of colonial days, if he could have foreseen this as possible, would not have had it so, simply because he was bom a wild Indian in a wigwam. A tame fox may be petted and well fed, but a wild fox, half starved, as he generally is, would never choose to become a tame one. KING PHILIP'S WAR 63 So, after fifty years had passed since the settlement of Plymouth, the Indians were reasoning among themselves in this way: " Now is our time. If we do not at once unite our scattered tribes and destroy the English, they will, in the end, starve us out. They will soon grow so powerful that resist- ance would be hopeless. It is true that we cannot fight as they do. They have plenty of firearms and we must depend partly on our bows and arrows, but then we need not meet them in open battle. We can worry them out, we can shoot and poison their cattle, bum their houses and bams, and lie in wait for them in their fields and in the forest paths. When the men are away from home we can tomahawk the women and children. They may be more numerous than we are, but, in this way, we can in time destroy them all or drive them back whence they came." Som.e of the old sagamores gave different counsel, but this was the spirit that possessed the younger men of the tribes in Massachusetts. The disastrous Pequot war in Connecticut had taught the Mohegans that such reasonings were in vain and, under the leadership of the wily Uncas, they had been for a long tim.e the allies of the English and were prepared to join with them even in war against their own race. To bring all this unfriendly feeling against the whites to a head, there was needed a warrior, who by his personal qualities, could unite under him the various tribes. »Such a man was Metacomet, Massasoit's son, called Philip by the English. He had now become chief of the Wampanoags and was thoroughly convinced of the importance of making a stand against the whites. He is known in history as King Philip, and indeed, he had many kingly qualities. He was large in stature, of commanding appearance, agile and swift- footed as any Indian brave, and of superb muscular training. 64 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD As a leader he was quick to see and to do; and what he did not think safe or wise for himself to do he knew how to set others on doing. After war was once begun he would appear, now in south- eastern Massachusetts, now in Rhode Island and all at once in the Connecticut valley, like an angel of death, unseen in his coming or going, but his presence always recognized by the sign of burning villages and slaughtered English. He was, like other Indians, treacherous; yet, toward those who had befriended him personally, he proved, in the war, to be kind and magnanimous. Before an attack on a certain town, he directed that two small children of an old friend, should be spared; and he would not let Scituate be destroyed because in that town lived a family of Leonards who had befriended him. Perhaps nothing could make Phihp more impressive than he was by nature; nevertheless on state occasions, it was his habit to assume a certain splendor of decoration. One of his decorations was a belt about ten feet long which went over his shoulders and being brought forward, hung down before him, nearly to his feet. It was embroidered with black and white wampum in figures of beasts, birds and flowers. Still another belt embroidered was placed on the head and hung down behind, and a third, ornamented with the figure of a star, was worn on the breast. These belts were edged with the red fur of some animal. The war began in June, 1675, within Plymouth colony, not far from Mount Hope, Phihp's residence. Several villages were laid waste and some soldiers killed; but on the whole, thanks to the vigilance of Captain Church, a skillful Indian fighter, Philip was not very successful; so that he and his warriors were fortunate in escaping to the region of the KING PHILIP'S WAR 65 Connecticut valley, where the settlements, being more sepa- rated, could be easier attacked. It was in early August that a horseman came riding in hot haste into the Main street of Springfield, announcing to the excited inhabitants that their neighbors of Brookfield, thirty miles away, were in great dis- tress. The horseman was Judah Trumbull. He had k^ft Springfield but a few hours before. Arriving at Brook- field he had found the village m fiames and the villagers ?nned up in a single house, --, ~- ^_ fighting for their lives ^ against a horde of savages who were besieging it. Concealing himself, Trumbull crept up near enough to take in the situ- ation, then rushed to Springfield, as fast as his horse could carry him. Lieutenant Cooper immediately raised a troop of horse- men and hurried to Brookfield. On arriving he found that help had just come from another source. The Brookfield people were saved; but sad was their story. They had all, eighty-three in number, including women and children, gathered in a fortified house. To this the Indians tried to set fire in the hope of killing the inmates as they rushed out. To this end hay and fagots were piled against the side of the house and fired ; but the blaze was put out from within. Blazing arrows were then shot upon the roof; but holes were .luDAH Trumbull's Ride. 66 lllSrOKY OF SPRINGFIELD cut in the roof and the fire put out. More water being wanted, a man who went to the well after it was shot. A woman, too, was killed by a bullet that entered through a loophole made for firing a musket from within. In a last effort to fire the house the Indians got a cart, lengthened the tongue or pole by splicing on other poles and, loading it with combus- tibles, set it on fire. Then they tried to push it against the The Att.^ck on Brookfield. house, l)ut one wheel getting caught in a i-ut, the; cart turned round and exposed those who pushed it to shots from the house. .V shower, just then coming up, extinguished the fire. Brookfield having been destroyed, it was naturally to be expected that Philip would now give his attention to the settlements up and down the valley. None knew whose turn would come next. Springfield was no longer the northern settlement. Above were Hadley and Northampton, Hatfield KING PHILIP'S WAR 67 and Deerfield, and still further north, Northfield, the most exposed of all. The only settlement to the west, in the valley, was Westfield. Of all the forces in the valley Major Pynchon had command, and in each town of course there was a military company. In his plans Major Pynchon showed more wisdom than the commissioners of the united colonies, who had general charge of the war. He proposed to disarm the peaceful Indians, like the Agawams, before they had a chance to do mischief. It was decided first to disarm the Nonotucks who lived near Northampton. For this purpose, two companies, imder Captain Lathrop and Captain Beers, after relieving Brookfield. were marching thence northwards when they overtook the enemy near Mount Sugarloaf. The Indians suddenly stopped, plunged into a swamp, and poured a volley of bullets into the English. Into the swamp rushed the troops and, shelter- ing themselves behind trees, they and the savages fought for three hours. In this, the battle of Hopewell Swamp, a number were killed on both sides. Then followed an attack on Deerfield and next on North- field, under the command of Sagamore Sam and One-Eyed John. Some of the inhabitants of Northfield were killed and eventually the settlement was abandoned for the rest of the war. While Captain Beers and his company were marching to the relief of Northfield they fell into an ambush. An ambush was a favorite mode of warfare with Indians. They would carefully pick out some narrow passage, through which they believed their enemy would go, where, concealing them- selves behind rocks and trees, and waiting until the enemy were so far in the pass as to make retreat difficult, they would make a sudden and deadly onslaught. Captain Beers and his force were thus caught while they were crossing a brook. 68 IIIS'IOJIY OF SPRINGFIELD Thrown at first into confusion, they finally rallied and fought their way out of the ravine. Then on a slope of a hill, now known as Beers mountain, they made a last desperate resist- ance; but the Captain and most of his company were killed. A few days afterwards, when Major Treat came along, he saw the heads of the slain stuck on poles by the travelled path, the sign and threat of Indian vengeance. About the middle of September Captain Appleton with his company were ^'J marching from :v3 Deerfield to t r Hadley. In the ?I neighborhood of :I Mount Sugarloaf ; - they stopped by "e a brook to pick '-'-4 f^. the wild grapes W^ that hung ,i<:jU> temptingly on ■" ' -' " the vines about them. It was an excellent place for an am- bush and the Indians well knew it. No sooner were the troops scattered and their arms laid aside than the very bushes seemed on fire from the guns of, perhaps, hundreds of Indians, Pocumtucks, Nonotucks, Nashaways, Squakheags, led by Sagamore Sam, One-Eyed John, Muttaump, and, quite likely, Philip himself. The slaughter was well nigh complete. Almost the only person who escaped had thrown himself into the bed of the brook Tliis cut is from "The Little Readers Assistant," by Noah Webster, author of the Dictionary. It shows the clever escape of an Indian ally of the whites who, being pursued by one of King Philip's men, hid behind a rock and, raising his headgear on the barrel of his gun, drew the fire of his enemy. To reload the gun, a flint lock, took so much time that the first Indian escaped. KING PHILIP'S WAR 69 and pulled the bushes over him. Although stepped on by more than one Indian, he lay quiet until all was over. This conflict is known as the battle of Bloody Brook. A monument near by now marks the burial place of the slain. Cradle of the Pvnchon Family, now in the Old Day House. 70 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD THE STATUE OF THE PURITAN IN MERRICK PARK With sober foot unswerving, lip severe, And lid that droops to shield the inner sight; Dark-browed, stern- willed, a shadow in the light Of alien times, and yet no alien here; Revered and dreaded, loved, but yet with fear; He moves, the somber shade of that old night Whence grew our morn, the ghost of that grim might Tliat nursed to strength the Nation's youth austere. Mark the grave thought that lines the hollow cheek, The hardy hand that guards the sacred book. The sinewy limb, and what the thin lips speak Of iron will to mould the era — look In reverence, and as ye mutely scan The heroic figure, see, rough-limned, a man! — Wkitnwre, 1852- /~ '~^^ .':; \ The Indian Stockade on Long Hill as it Probably Appeared, Looking S. E. CHAPTER V. KING PHILIP'S WAR CONTINUED —THE BIRNING OF SPRINGFIELD.— CAPT. HOLYOKE AND THE FALLS FIGHT— CLOSE OF IHE WAR. THE war was by this time well begun throuij^hout the two colonies. The upper settlements of the Connecticut seemed to be at the mercy of the savages. They were now gathering in the neighborhood of Hadley, which appar- ently was to be the next point of attack. It was to Hadley therefore that the English soldiers were sent. Major Pynchon believed that some troops should nevertheless be left in the 72 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD other settlements for fear of a surprise ; but the commissioners of the colonies made the mistake of not taking his advice. In another respect he was overruled. With his usual fore- sight and knowledge of Indian character he had suggested that the Agawams should be deprived of their firearms and a permanent guard placed in their fort. They were as yet peaceable and, being few in number, it could have been easily done. But he was obliged to content himself with taking a few hostages, who were then sent by him to Hartford for safer keeping. The gathering of troops at Hadley of course required Major Pynchon's presence there as commander of the army in the valley, and in accordance with orders he felt obliged to take with him nearly all the able-bodied men. Scarcely any men were left in the town, except a few old men, like Deacon Chapin, who was then in his last sickness, and boys under eighteen. Springfield's defenceless condition and iinportance gave Philip his opportunity. Through spies he knew what was going on. The blow was not to fall on Hadley, after all. To join forces with the Agawams, in the Long Hill stockade, was easy. He had only to hurry his light-footed braves down the line of the desolate Wilbraham hills and no one would be the wiser till it was too late. The farm houses of the open country were few and scattered and the occupants had fled into the villages for protection. By what defences had Springfield been made ready for an Indian onslaught? JMajor Pynchon and his fellow townsmen had their own way in this respect and they were fairly prepared. The Pynchon house, by its construction, being of brick with walls two feet in thickness, was in itself a good defence. There were two other houses in the lower part of the street. KING PHILIP'S WAR 73 which, although built of wood, were especially protected against assault. Into these the inhabitants could flee. The ordinary means of garrisoning houses was by palisades. A palisade was made in this way. Trees of convenient size were cut to such a length that when placed firmly in the ground they would rise above it to the length of ten or twelve feet. Having been roughly hewn to a post-like form, or, if the work was hurried, perhaps not hewn at all, they palisaded houses. were then set close together around the house to be protected. They were also fastened together by a rude rail, held, it may be, by nails or withes. Sometimes several houses, or as at North- ampton, a whole hamlet, were thus enclosed. Loopholes were made here and there through which those from within could fire at an approaching enemy without much danger that a bullet or arrow would enter the loophole itself. At the entrance of the stockade or palisaded place, one line of posts was made to overlap the line from the other direction at a distance just wide enough for a man to pass. The narrow passage could thus be easily defended. Of course, if the enemy could get upon a rock or tree in the near neighborhood, they could fire upon the house, so that occasionally some one was shot when opposite a window. Feather beds, as was the case in Brook- field, could be hung against the inside wall to deaden the bullets that might penetrate the wall itself. It was with palisades that the Long Hill fort was constructed and the settlers wisely adopted the Indian mode of defence. The Indian fort or stockade was situated on the spot where now stands the house of the Vincentian Fathers. When exca- vations for this building were made the ashes of the 74 HISrOHY OF SPRIxNGFIKLI) ancient fires were uncovered and discolorations of the soil showed where the posts had been. It was into this fort on Long Hill that some of Philip's warriors secretly entered on a night in early October, 1675. There were among our local Indians only about forty fighting men. They were probably so peaceably disposed, by reason of their weakness, their familiar intercourse in the village, and the fair treatment which they had always had, that had it not been for the incitements of Philip, they might have taken no part in the war. They were nearer to Connecticut than the Indians of the upper valley and in the Pequot war the Connecticut Indians had been taught a severe lesson. But to destroy Springfield was part of Philip's plan; he needed the help of our Indians and his clever arts prevailed. On Monday, October 4th, Major Pynchon set out for Hadley with his men. His object was to locate the Indians harboring around there and bring on a decisive battle at once. Meantime, Indian braves who had fired Brookfield and other places, were secretly got into the Long Hill fort. The terrible disaster and slaughter of women and children that impended was only saved from making a bloody page of history by a single circumstance. The Agawam hostages were still in Hartford and their relatives probably insisted on their relief from certain death by getting them out of the hands of the whites before the expected attack. Had this not been done some Indian would have betrayed the whole plot. Accordingly some messengers were sent to Hartford, who in some way effected the escape of the hostages. In passing through Windsor, either going or coming, the messengers or the hostages happened to come across Toto, an Indian who lived in a white family. Toto became aware of the plot and as he KING PHILIP'S WAR 75 showed great excitement about something, he revealed it, on being questioned. No time was to be lost. The fate of Springfield now hung on a family in Windsor, whose name we would be glad to know. A swift messenger was dispatched to the doomed town. Leaving his horse, probably, in West Springfield, and rousing the citizens there, he crossed on the ferry, with some of them, at dead of night. The alarm was given all down the street. The people fled at once to the fortified houses and a messenger was sent to Hadley after Major Pynchon. It is probable that the Indians intended to make the attack at night. The betrayal of their plot and the sudden rush of the people for safety may have disconcerted their plans At all events the morning broke with no sign of danger and some of the people went back to their homes. It was hard for them to believe that the Agawams had become their enemies. At this time the town was in command of Thomas Cooper, then known as Lieutenant Cooper. He no longer lived in his old place on Main street but fifteen years before had removed to that part of the town now known as Agawam and had a sawmill on Three Mile brook. He was an old man, but yet hale and hearty. He was not only a carpenter and farmer; he was something of a surgeon and in the absence of regular physicians, went far and near to set a broken bone. This he did in kindness and with no charge. In the absence of lawyers he also practiced before the courts. He was so often called to serve as selectman that he sought to avoid the office. He was particularly successful in dealing with the Indians and was probably personally acquainted with each one. Green, in his history, says that his descendants, of whom some still remain, may well place him beside Deacon Chapin as one of the pillars of the town. 76 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD Another man besides Cooper, Chapin and the minister, who remained when the miUtia went to Hadley, was Thomas Miller. He was the constable and perhaps for that reason was left behind. Unlike Lieutenant Cooper, he was probably not on particularly good terms with the Indians. In his younger days he had, for some reason, struck old Reippumsick with the butt of his gun and the old man brought the younger one before Judge William Pynchon. As the matter was liable to lead to difficulties with the Indians, the judge called in several men, including the minister and Thomas Cooper, to sit with him as advisers. The result was that ]\Iiller was sentenced to be whipped at the public whipping post fifteen lashes, which, rather than undergo, he finally made his peace with the Indians by the payment of four fathoms of wampum. Perhaps unpleasant feelings remained on both sides, for ten years afterw^ards Miller complained to the court of KoUa- baugamitt, Mallamaug and other Indians for striking his wife and throwing sticks at his children; whereupon ten men riding hard on five horses were sent in pursuit of the fleeing Kollabaugamitt, Mallamaug and other assailants into the country of the Nipmucks. Kollabaugamitt and Mallamaug were caught and fined by the Court in fourteen fathoms of wampum. Although the Indians did not like Thomas Miller, yet, as he was constable and had been fence viewer, pound- keeper and committee on the allotment of new lands, he was evidently reckoned a worthy citizen. It is true that with the coming of the morning of the eventful day the people had returned to their homes. Most of them, of course, were women and children and the distress and anxiety must have been great. The defenders of the town had gone, and, although sent for, they might be unable to return. There may have been reports of strange Indians KING PHILIP'S WAR 77 seen about the fort, and with another night death and destruc- tion might be upon the village. At some hazard Lieutenant Cooper determined to resolve these doubts. Taking Thomas Miller with him, both mounted, they rode down the street in the direction of the fort. Arrived at some point not far from the bridge at Mill river, probably just across the stream where the road passes alongside the natural bank at the foot The Ambush of Lieutenant Cooper and Consj uu.k Mii.i.Ejt. of Long Hill, a shot was heard and then another. Miller was instantly killed. Cooper fell from his horse, but remounting, started up the street. Another shot made a mortal wound. He reached the nearest gamsoned house and gave the alarm, but immediately died. Much as Thomas Cooper had done for the town in his life, in his death he really saved it from a great slaughter, for the 78 HISTORY (W SPRINGFIELD alarm was none too soon. The people had no sooner got into the fortified houses than the Indians, whooping and yelling, broke from the fort and were upon the town. "Alas, that direful yell, So loud, so wild, so shrill, so clear, As if the very fiends of hell, Burst from the wildwood depths, were here." As compared with an Indian warwhoop, the howling of a wolf or the cry of a panther had no terrors to the forefathers. At the head of the savage band were Philip's chosen braves, close followed by the more timid Agawams, armed with fire- arms and bows and an'ows. Some carried blazing pine knots, prepared to bum the houses, bams and haystacks. Thanks to the Windsor Indian, Lieutenant Cooper and the palisades, no one was killed in the mad rush up the street except Pente- cost Matthews, wife of the old town drummer, and Edmund Pringrydays, who was wounded and died a few days after. Some thirty houses were burned as were about twenty-five bams stored with fodder for the winter. Crossing the marsh, the enemy burned the house of correction, near the present comer of State and Maple streets. In a short time the whole town, from the mills on Mill river to upper Ferry Lane (Cypress street) was a burning, smoking ruin. Nothing escaped but the garrisoned houses, the meeting-house and one or two houses near it. Before being fired, the houses were plundered of their valuables. One Indian got a pewter platter, which holding up before his person, either in defence or defiance, an enraged townsman sent a bullet through both platter and Indian. The platter remained in the town for nearly two centuries. While the Indians were still in the village plundering and burning and looking for an opportunity to kill the besieged, KING PHILIP'S WAR 79 Major Treat of Connecticut arrived on the West Springfield side of the river with a company of soldiers. Could they have got across, the Indians would have fled, but the latter kept them back. Major Pynchon, however, having got the message sent the night before, had set out in great haste with the Spring- field men, whose wives and children, mothers and sisters, were in the "sacked and burning village." Perspiring with exertion and anxiety, they at last arrived on the scene. Their approach was the signal for the retreat of the Indians. These hurried eastward across the plain and encamped for the night about six miles away, tradition says at Indian Orchard. The next day they plunged into the forest to the north. The Agawams, afterwards uniting themselves with other tribes to the west of the Hudson, became, as a separate tribe, forever lost to sight. Although now and then a wanderer appeared about the home of his childhood, never again did Springfield have a tribe of Indian neighbors. One old squaw was left in the hasty flight. Perhaps she tried to follow the tribe and fell behind because of her age. Captain Moseley of Boston, who was engaged in the army of the valley, but not in Springfield, declared that she was torn in pieces by dogs. If true, this heinous act requires explana- tion and apology. Perhaps only a few were responsible. The shocking barbarities of the Indians were beginning to arouse the colonists to a fearful revenge. Captive Indians, including Philip's wife and little son, were sold into slavery in the West Indies, and even in Plymouth the heads of slain Indians were exposed on poles. There is nothing, however, on the part of the whites as barbarous as an act of the Indians in roasting a captive and eating slices of his flesh while yet alive. The saintly Eliot, who had been a successful missionary to the Indians, tried, with others, to lessen the brutalities of 80 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD war, so far as the whites were concerned, but without success. The Indians, however, had not so much feehng about this matter, even as concerned their own people, as one might expect. They looked upon death with a sort of indifference and probably felt that scalping and being scalped, burning alive and being burnt alive were a part of the glory of war. When Toto, mentioned in the fourth chapter (page 60), having himself killed nineteen whites, at last fell into the hands of Inhians Killing a White Captive. From Noah Webster's "Little Header's Assistant." Captain Church, he was told to prepare to die. He admitted that the sentence was just and said he was ashamed to live. He asked only the favor of being allowed to smoke a few whiff's of tobacco, which having done, he said he was ready. Then one of Captain Church's Indians sank a hatchet in his brains. At last winter began to set in, a time when even the Indians could not accomplisli much in the way of active warfare. Philip and his Wampanoags retired from this region and intrenched themselves in a swamp in the eastern part of the KING PHILIP'S WAR 81 State, where they were attacked with great slaughter. But it was a sad state of things here in the valley, with Deerfield, Northfield and Springfield destroyed and only Hadley and Northampton remaining. Springfield was in great straits. The people huddled together in the few houses and bams that were left and some probably found shelter on the west side where there were some houses. Major Pynchon was much inconvenienced by the crowding of his own house and dis- tressed by his great loss of property, — his grist mills and saw mills destroyed and the people who owed him unable to pay. It seemed like the ruin of his fortune, yet this is the way he wrote to one of his children, then in London: "Dear Son: I would not have you troubled at these sad losses which I have met with. There is no reason for a child to be troubled when his father calls in that which he lent him. It was the Lord that lent it to me, and he that gave it hath taken it away, and blessed be the name of the Lord. He hath done very well for me, and I acknowledge his goodness, and desire to trust in Him and to submit to Him forever. And do you, with me, acknowledge and justify Him." There was some talk of abandoning Springfield. Major Pynchon himself thought he would be better off to remove to Boston, where he had some property left. But, strong in the sense of duty, which was a family trait, he wrote to Gov- ernor Leverett in language of manliness and fortitude: /t^L ^P / -I resolve to attend what ^-f/^^^^n^^ God calls me to do and to ^ ^^ 9 stick to it as long as I can, ^ ^ . 1 T 1 1 . AUTOGHAPII OK JoH.V PyNCHOX. and, though 1 have such great loss of the creature comforts, yet to do what I can in defending this place." Thus he furnished a good motto for all the sons and 82 HISTORY OF SPRINGP^IELD daughters of Springfield in times of stress and difficulty: "STICK TO IT!" At last the dreadful winter passed into an early spring, so that the crops were got early into the ground. The hopes of the people began to revive. They had not much more to lose and if the war might only be successfully ended in the campaign of the advancing year, all might yet be well. But the Indians had been greatly encouraged by the successes of 1675, and their dreams of sweeping the white men out of New England seemed nearer to becoming true. They started early on the war path. On a day in March a small party of Longmeadow people, who, out of fear, had been deprived of all church services since the memorable fifth of October, were on their way to the meeting-house at the center. They were protected by a few mounted soldiers, men from the eastern part of the state, who had been garrisoned in Springfield since the disaster. The company had got as far as the brook at Pecowsic, just where it comes out from Forest Park, when they were set upon by Indians. John Keep of Longmeadow was killed, his wife captured and his children either killed or captured. The Indians escaped into the region of the park and made for the north. As soon as Major Pynchon was notified he set oft with others in pursuit, and overtaking the band, rescued a woman. It was learned from her that some, at least, of the attacking party were our own Agawams. Still bolder moves than this were made. Connecticut, after the Pequot war, seemed to be reasonably safe, but now an invasion into that colony was made; and Simsbury, only a few miles from Hartford, was attacked. Town after town in the eastern part of the colony was attacked or destroyed and the colonists were almost in despair. It seemed as if KING PHILIP'S WAR 83 savager}^ were indeed winning the day against civilization; as if a great continent were to have no better vise than as a hunting ground for wild Indians. But when it seemed darkest, it was really just before a decisive blow that shattered the Indians' hopes in a day. To show how this came about it is necessary to go back a little. Early in March the Indians, in one of their marauding expeditions down the valley, had captured a Springfield boy, Mrs. Rowlandson and John Gilbert at Turners Falls. John Gilbert by name, whose father had lived in Longmeadow, but was now dead. John, who perhaps had wandered too far east of the village in order to snare partridges or something of that sort, was taken as far north as the present town of Hinsdale in New Hampshire. Here he fell very sick and was finally cast out into the cold along with a little Indian child who had lost both its parents and was thrown out to die. They were found by Mrs. Rowlandson, the captive wife of a minister. With great difficulty she got the youth to a 84 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD fire and he grew better. He watched his chance to escape and on his eighteenth birthday he succeeded. On reaching the settlements he was able to give very important informa- tion. It had not been known where the Indians of western Massachusetts were located, whether they had gone over into the Hudson valley or had remained nearer at hand. Could their rendezvous be discovered, and the whole body be surprised by a sudden onslaught their power for evil might be broken. When John Gilbert reached the settlements he made it clear just where the Indians could be found. It was at some falls on the Connecticut river, near the entrance of a river, now called Miller's river. It was a good place for fishing and here the Indians, by drying fish, were making themselves ready for the summer campaign. As soon as this information became known to Captain Turner, after whom the falls were eventually named, he decided to attack at once. He was now in command in the valley. Major Pynchon having been allowed to resign at his own request. Pynchon, though a wise counsellor in the war, did not consider himself especially fitted for active military operations. Although he did not go to Turners Falls, Springfield was well represented there by Captain Samuel Holyoke, the son of Mary Pynchon, a young man of brave and ardent temperament. He was second in command. The Indians were encamped directly on the bank of the river. With a sudden and terrible onslaught Captain Turner was among them without warning. Those who were not slain in their wigwams, plunged madly into the river and were carried down the falls to certain death. Such was the pitch of despera- tion to which the English had come in their fight against extinction by the savage that Captain Holyoke slew five old men, women and children with his own hand, as they were KING PHILIP'S WAR 85 hiding under a bank. This is horrible to relate, like as it is to the stories of an older time ; but when the life of a people is at stake means are not nicely measured. At best, war is terrible. The noise of the attack had aroused another band of Indians who were not far off and they at once attacked the invaders. It w^as said that Philip was approaching with a thousand warriors. The victory of the English was now turned into a retreat, and, owing to certain circumstances, a retreat which it was very difficult successfully to manage. To make it worse, Captain Turner was shot and the command devolved on Holyoke. Already he had nearly lost his life with the vanguard. His horse had been shot under him. As several warriors rushed upon him he killed one and his men drove back the rest. It was, nevertheless, his self-possession and courage that saved the day, and he marched into Hadley the surviving victor of the famous "Falls Fight." But the strain of those hours was too much. He returned to Springfield and in a few short months died from the effects of the exertion, a sacrifice to the cause of civilization in the Connecticut valley, and, indeed, the whole state. It is, perhaps for him, more likely for his father, Elijah Hol- yoke, that the mountain is named which looks down on the scenes of his life and victory. The Falls Fight, notwithstanding the rout of the English at the end of it, was really a great disaster for the Indians. It broke up the fisheries, on which Philip depended for his supplies during the summer campaign. Many sachems, sagamores and braves were killed, and Philip, almost in despair, left the valley of the great river for his own country. As it turned out, the Falls Fight, in which John Gilbert and Captain Holyoke of Springfield had borne so important a part, was the 86 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD last great event of the war, except the death of Philip himself. The Indian cause seemed all at once to collapse. Bereft of his family, his supporters killed in the Swamp Fight of the preceding winter and the Falls Fight of May 18th, Philip himself was at last corralled by Captain Church in a swamp. Swamps were a favorite place of refuge with Indians. As Philip was jumping from hummock to hummock in his flight, he was shot by an Indian, an ally of the English. Thus ended King Philip's war, so far as he was concerned, in August 1676. It was continued for a time by sachems on the Maine and New Hampshire coast, and then peace was arranged. Henceforth the Indians of New England were a doomed race; doomed to weakness, disease, intemperance and decay. It had been the glory of Massasoit to win by kindness the friendship and good will of a new continental power. It was the fate of his son to destroy that good will and make his people, as a race in New England, first, to be feared and then to be ignored and forgotten. Two centuries were to pass before savage warfare was to cease beyond the Hudson and on the slopes of the Rockies, and the last Indian warrior engaged in conflict with the American people, Geronimo, of the dreadful tribe of Apaches, h£is died the week that this work goes to press; but for New England its Indians were soon to be as if they had never been. "Alas for them! — their day is o'er. Their fires are out from hill and shore ; No more for them the wild deer bounds; The plough is on their hunting-grounds; The pale man's axe rings through their woods; The pale man's sail skims o'er their floods; Their pleasant springs are dry ; Their children, — ^look! by power oppressed. Beyond the mountains of the west Their children go — to die!" — Sprague. CHAPTER VI. SETTLEMENT OF CHICOPEE AND OTHER TOWNS. THE REVOLUTION. Chicopee Falls in 18:38. SPRINGFIELD had as yet but a very small population; all told there could not have been more than a few hundred people. But the Springfield of that time, the time of King Philip's war and for many years afterwards, occupies a large place on the map. The Indians having gone, there were none to dispute the English ownership, except the settlements made independent of Springfield and there were none of these in Massachusetts, except Westfield, nearer than Hadley and Northampton. Enfield and Sufiield had once been practically a part of Springfield but it was finally decided that 88 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD they lay beyond the Massachusetts Hne. Although some went from Springfield to help settle Westfield, this town wanted Westfield to be independent. Some went over the river to establish their homes even before the war, like Lieutenant Cooper. Notwithstanding this scattering and the fact that the cen- tral village might be weakened by it, there was a friendly feeling all around and the dwellers on the west side are spoken of in old records as "our neighbors." Longmeadow was early granted a separate school and although there was a locality named Longmeadow Gate, it did not divide the in- habitants except in the matter of place. John Riley went as far away as the southern part of the present Holyoke and may be considered as the first settler of that city. Riley's brook perpetuates his name. In fact, when we consider the territory included and the settlers who branched out in one direction or another, for the sake of getting good, large farms all to themselves, yet were really inhabitants of Springfield and voted in its town meeting, we would find old Springfield to embrace the present towns or cities of Holyoke, West Springfield, Agawam, Chicopee, Ludlow, Wilbraham, Hamp- den, Longmeadow and East Longmeadow\ The early settle- ment of Longmeadow was of the great meadow itself, down by the river, Chicopee was settled largely by Chapins and there were so many boys in the Chapin families that the name is unusually common hereabouts. So for many years was the name of Bliss ; and no wonder, for Luke Bliss had sixteen children and Jedediah Bliss had as many and one over. For the sake of the good land and the river travel, the early settlers kept pretty near the water, but in 1721 Nathaniel Hitchcock decided to go to "the mountains," as they were called, and built for liimself and his wife a house within the present limits NEIGHBORING TOWNS 89 of Wilbraham. Others soon followed him. These Manchonis mountains were the Indian hunting grounds. When the settlement of Wilbraham commenced there was one squaw remaining nearly half a century after her tribe had been gone. Her wigwam was on a little brook near the hill since called "W^ig\vam Hill." "Alone," says Stebbins in his history of Wilbraham, "the last of that mysterious race, who had chased the deer over these fields, trapped the beaver in these streams, speared the salmon in these rivers, enjoyed the freedom of these hills, kindled their evening fires by these springs, and, as they smoked their pipes, beheld the western sky lighting up, as the sun went down, as if with the smile of the Great Spirit and of the braves, who had fallen in battle, and buried their kindred under these trees, she lived solitar}^ the curiosity of the early settlers, harmless, quiet, meditative, seldom entering any dwelling and providing for her own wants. At last she disappeared; of the manner of her death, or of her burial place, no man knoweth. She passed away, as a shadow of the vanished race and joined the company of her fathers." In 1750 Captain Miller went out and settled Ludlow. It thus happened that there were, before the Revo- lution, dwellers within the limits of all the cities and towns which have been made out of the old Springfield. When different localities came to be settled or used it is interesting to see what old Indian names they kept and what new ones they got. Take, for example, the Mill river valley. The land where the lesser river joins the greater one was known to the Indians as Usquaiok, which was, perhaps, the name of the stream. Mill river meant more to the settlers than Usquaiok, yet, just across the Connecticut they kept for the stream and the town, the word Agawam, the fish curing place of the Indians, where there were salmon and shad in plenty. 90 HISTOin OF Sl'RINGFIELD Following up the Mill river valley, we pass the Water Shops, an odd name, indicating the use of water power. Fol- lowing the south branch we come to the neighborhood of Wachogue, formerly called Wachuet, an Indian word mean- ing "land near the hill." There were once "great Wachuet" and "little Wachuet," good meadow lands near hills on or near the Hampden road. Further on, along the stream, there was a good lot of land which measured about sixteen acres ("hudi'ee from Spbingfield Street, 183S. in extent. This was allotted to early settlers and "The Sixteen Acres" grew into the name of a locality. Still further up was a tract called "World's End," because beyond this, for a time, nobody wanted to go. The dingles or old ravines which cut into the terraces of the thickly settled parts of the city all had their names. At the beginning of St. James avenue was, and is. Squaw tree dingle and, near the Chicopee line. Hogpen dingle. The dingle below the \\\\sson Hospital was wSkunk's Misery and the NEIGHBORING TOWNS 91 one beginning at Avon Place was Thompson's dingle. To the south are Long dingle in Forest Park, and Entry dingle, which last is in Longmeadow. These localities are shown on the map in the first chapter. Suppose, now, we follow up the Chicopee river for a time, beginning at its mouth, at the place which the Indians called Chicopee. Passing Crowfoot brook, named for an early- settler on its banks, and through the center, we arrive at the ancient Schonunganuck, now Chicopee Falls. Not far beyond is Skipmaug or Skipmuck. Noticing the outlets, as we pass, of Skipmuck brook, Poor brook and Higher brook, and the curve at Bircham's Bend we come to Indian Orchard, a name of which the origin is lost; The original locality of that name was on the north side of the river within the present town of Ludlow. We will return by way of the old Bay road. Crossing Poor brook again and coming into State street, near Squaw tree dingle, and where "the log path,' ' now upper State street, formerly left the Bay road, and crossing the Connecticut, let us follow the course of the Agawam. We would pass through Ramapogue at the West Springfield common and, reaching the stream just beyond, pass under the high bluffs which were once the banks of the old lake. We cross the little "Silver stream" flowing out from the hill in Mittineague or iVIened- gonuck and, passing through the village and a mile or more beyond, we come to a great bend called "the neck." The Indians, however, called this place Ashconunsuck. Just above is Tatham or Tattum, the meaning of which nobody knows. Pursuing our way west we cross Block brook and, rounding the course of the stream where it runs between the ridges of trap, we arrive at the fertile interval known to the Indians, and still known, as Paucatuck. This hamlet is the 92 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD last before we reach the Westfield line. Paucatuck brook rises some miles to the north, beyond Bear Hole. Thus we see how English and Indian words of description are mingled in our names of places. Although, as we have seen, the Indians, as tribes, were no longer left in this part of New England, yet they continued to wander back from time to time and were occasionally employed on the farms. The danger from Indians was not yet over, but it was now the red men of Canada who kept the settlements in alarm. They had never been heard of before in these parts, but about ten years after King Philip's war ended and for more than half a century afterwards there were at times wars between England and France, which affected us. The French had settled Canada and, allying themselves with the Indians there, they made invasions of New England, particularly down the valley of the Connecticut. Northfield, Deerfield and Brookfield were most exposed. Men were killed and women carried captive to Canada. In Major Pynchon's day he was the military governor of the whole valley, and once when Brookfield had been attacked, he sent a force in pursuit of the Indians who were making fast for Canada. Among the pursuers was the same Thomas Gilbert, who had once escaped from Indian captivity. The Indians were overtaken while at breakfast. Six of them were killed, and nine guns, twenty hatchets and about twenty horns of powder taken. It was just like John Pynchon, writing an account of the affair, to say, " 'Tis God, not our twenty men that hath done it." Although the French were, from time to time, raising such dark war clouds to the north, yet in 1718, there arrived in Springfield a Frenchman who followed the ways of peace. He was a peddler, Samuel Malle- field by name, and appeared riding an iron gray horse. He NEIGHBORING TOWNS 93 brought more goods than one horse would carry, so, doubtless, the goods came by water from Hartford. There is in existence a list of all his wares, from which it appears that he brought something for everybody, — handkerchiefs, penknives and ink horns for the men, silks, fans and laces for the women and jewsharps and httle books for the children. Among a multitude of other things were over 1 1 ,000 pins. All this we know because no sooner had the peddler arrived than he fell sick and died, and a complete inventory of his goods was made for the Probate Court. But the peddler, vSamuel Mallefield, especially interests us, not so much because he came on an iron gray horse and brought 1 1 ,000 pins, but because on his deathbed he directed that all his property, after paying his expenses, should make a fund for the relief of the poor. The town accepted the bequest and erected a stone of table form to the memory of the French peddler, which may be seen among the ancient stones on the Pine street side of the cemetery. Very many years were to pass before his example would be fol- lowed; but in 1863 James W. Hale, a benevolent grocer, left most of his fortune to supply the worthy poor with coal, fuel and flour, from what is now called "The Hale Fund." These two men were the forerunners of many kind people who have made gifts and bequests for the use of the city. We are now come to the great days of the Revolution. Its battles were waged far away from Springfield; but, besides sending her men to join the- the upper Ferry Lane, now Cypress street. They advance down the street and halt in front of tlie tavern at (the present) Court Square. The central figure is a tall and really fine- looking man of dignified yet pleasing countenance. It is the new General, George Washington, on his way to Cambridge to take command of the Continental army. With him is General Lee. "He was," says Irving, in his "Life of Wash- THE REVOLUTION 95 ington," "in the vigor of his days, forty-three years of age, stately in person, noble in demeanor, calm and dignified in his deportment. As he sat on his horse with manly grace, his military presence delighted every eye." After dinner at the tavern, the afternoon saw the party again on their way up State street and along the old Bay road. We may believe that General Wash- ington, who was an ob- servant traveler, drew rein for a moment at the Wait monument, then rather new, and read the inscrip- tion carved for the benefit of wayfarers. The battles of Lexing- ton and Bunker Hill had already been fought. The minute-men of Springfield were already stationed at the fortifications around Boston. Here is a letter, with misspelling corrected, which one of the young soldiers from Springfield wrote to his father. It was written about the day of Washington's arrival, written from the very town whence the settlers had started, as told in the second chapter, \ Roxbury, June 29, 1775 Honored Father: After my regards to you I take this opportunity to let you know that I am well, as I hope these lines will find you and all my brothers and sisters. I have some news to write. In the first place there was a skirmish between Charlestown and Cambridge and the Wait Mcmmkni. 96 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD King's troops drove our men out of our intrenchment because thev had no powder and they have intrenched on Bunker's Hill and our men have intrenched on Winter Hill where the regulars retreated to when the first battle was at Concord which was June 16. They fired the same day at Roxbury and threw bombs and car- casses in order to set the street on fire, but by the goodness of God they did not, for our men, as soon as they had set it afire, would go up and put it out and they fired no more until last Satur- day. Then they fired again and tried to set it on fire but they would go and put it out. One of our men took one of the car- casses and brought it up to the General before it went out. And they set two or three houses afire. But they were as fierce as a bloodhound to put them out. Then the Rhode Islanders went down on the Neck with two or three field pieces and fired at them and made their sentries run to the breast-work. And then they fired upon our sentries and killed two of them. We are building a fort in Roxbury and digging a trench across the Neck. No more at present, so I remain your obedient son, JuDUTHAN Sanderson. It is plain that this young fellow was heart and soul with the cause of the Revolution. So were the citizens of Spring- field generally, prominent among them being William Pyn- chon, grandson of the "worshipful Major." There were those, however, who stood by the King. "Adamses, where are you THE REVOLUTION 97 going?" said Colonel Worthington to the great patriots, Samuel and John Adams, when they appeared in this town Discussing the Uevolution. in 1776, on their way to the Continental Congress. "To Philadelphia, to declare these colonies free," was the quick response. "Look out for your heads," replied Worthington. 98 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD #», ^ ^ The sound of battle was far away ; but occasional travelers and soldiers returning from Ticonderoga and other posts kept the people fully interested and informed. It was this remote- ness of Springfield from the seat of war that, with other reasons, induced General Washington to designate the town as the place for the government manufacture of arms. He chose the plateau on which the Armory is now located, on the western edge of what he calls in his diary, describing the country between the Hill and Indian Orchard, "an almost uninhabited pine plain much mixed with sand." The location chosen was then the town's training field, but it was readily yielded to the new enterprise. One of the great events in the early years of the Revolution, which is in a way connected with this and neighboring towns, was the surrender of the British General Burgoyne at Saratoga. Indeed, some of the soldiers of this vicinity were there and remembered the event as taking place on a clear and beautiful day in September. Standing in military array they saw the British general and six thousand of his troops pass by to the place where the latter laid down their arms. The soldiers of freedom were poor and wore no uniforms, but "they stood well arranged and with a military air." "The men," wrote the Hessian General Riedesel, then serving in the British army, "stood so still that we were filled with wonder. Not one of them made a single motion, as if he would speak with Costume of the Eighteenth Century. THE REVOLUTION 99 his neighbor. Nay, more, the lads that stood there in rank and file, kind nature had formed so trim, so slender, so full of nerve that it was a pleasure to look at them and we were all surprised at the sight of such a handsome, well formed race. Not a man was to be found, who as we marched by, made even a sign of taunting, insulting, exultation, hatred or any other evil feeling. On the contrary they seemed as if they would do us an honor." General Riedesel commanded some German troops from Hesse-Cassel who had been hired by the king to serve in America. In fact the great mass of the English people had not much sympathy with George the Third in his attempt to crush the liberty of the colonies. They were not eager to join the army and go to America for this purpose, so that the king bargained with the Grand Duke of Hesse-Cassel for 22,000 soldiers to fill up his army. It is not to be supposed that these mercenary troops had any heart in the war ; but there was no German freedom in those days and they were compelled to go. Once here, both the English and German soldiers realized that the cause of liberty was the same everywhere and that what the Americans were fighting for was just what they themselves needed in their own country. It is not surprising that many of them deserted and made their homes in the United States. In the army that surrendered at Saratoga was a large body of Hessians, with their general. All these were ordered sent as prisoners of war to Boston. As there would not be enough to feed them if all went by the same route, three de- tachments were formed and one of these was sent over the moimtains into and down the valley of the Westfield or Agawam river, by way of Springfield, It was at the close of a wet day in October when this large body of retired soldiers emerged from between the ridges of hills that divide Westfield 100 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD from West Springfield, and encamped on the West Springfield common. More comfortable quarters, however, were found by many at the farmsteads. In a large farmhouse in Paucatuck lived a little boy, Seth by name, whose father had but recently, gun on shoulder, come back from the scene of the surrender. He was intensely interested in stories of Ticonderoga and the doings about there Revolutionary Officers in a Farmhouse at Paucatuck, West Springfield. and one can imagine his excitement when a party of fifteen or sixteen officers from the two armies arrived at his father's house with the purpose of spending the night. The officers made themselves comfortable in the house and hung their swords and trappings above the blazing hearth-fire to dry. To the end of his life the boy remembered the glistening THE REVOLUTION 101 steel and brass of the swords and scabbards as they flashed in the firelight. As for the common soldiers they staid out in the sheds at the cost of a good pile of cider apples that were waiting for the press. In the morning camp was struck on the Common, the farmhouses emptied of their visitors and the whole host crossed the river to Springfield, whence they proceeded towards Brookfield. But not all went. An Englishman named Worthy thought that this part of the country was good enough for him and contrived to drop out, as did a German named Wagoner. Worthy used to say that when the British common soldiers got over here they found that the Americans had the right of the cause. One other deserter there was, a horse, too lame, perhaps, to go further. He, too, found friends in West Spring- field and to the end of his days went by the name of "Old Burgoyne." NOKTHEAST ClIKNEJ; nl C'l H K 1 S(,M \Ul-, 1 ^,^0. CHAPTER VII. SHAYS' REBELLION.— THE CONSTITUTION.— 1783-1789. SHAYS' Rebellion was one of the unfortunate incidents in the history of Massachusetts. It is interesting because it shows a people, almost a majority, in opposition to the regular action of a government which they had just set up; and it is important in a history of Springfield because it was here that some of the most stirring scenes occurred. Sometimes it has been called an insurrection, sometimes a rebellion. An insurrection is a rising to prevent the operation of the laws by force of arms. A rebellion is such an opposition widely extended. In this case the movement, by spreading through the state, passed from an insuiTection to a rebellion, although not a bloody one. It is included in the years 1783- 1787. What was its cause? During the Revolution the colonies had been too poor to pay the soldiers properly, too poor indeed, properly to feed and uniform the men; men who had, perhaps, left wife and children at home to get a very poor living on the farm while the husband and father served the cause. Money often had to be borrowed for them to live on. But the soldiers were paid in paper money, good so long as it would pass for the value stamped on its face, but it would so pass only so long as it could be exchanged for that which had a value in itself, gold or silver. In the colonies there was not enough gold or silver to go around and be exchanged for all this paper money ; so it began to get worthless, and the more that it was printed and given out the more worthless it got. 104 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD But the soldiers needed real money. When they got home to their farms they found, perhaps, that the oxen, which had not been needed for work during their absence, had been killed for beef. Now that the farmer himself was exchanging the gun for the plough, new oxen must be bought, or a new horse. Perhaps the farmer who had served in one or two campaigns was drafted for another and had to borrow money to pay for some one to go to the war in his place. The money was borrowed in coin and now the returning soldier found nothing in his hands with which to pay, except the now almost worthless paper. The former price of a yoke of oxen would scarce buy three mugs of cider ; and if a man had borrowed a hundred dollars, he must now get four thousand dollars in paper money to make it good. This farmer, pictured in an old broad side, "The Looking glass for 1787," has filled a bag with paper money and even then has scarcely enough to pay his taxes. When things came to this pass everybody was alarmed for the future. Business, of course, came very much to a standstill and it was hard to sell any- thing with which to pay anybody. People to whom debts were due began to collect them. If tlic debtor could not pay he was brought before the court and his farm or personal property was ordered to be sold to raise the money, and when nobody wanted to buy nothing would bring its real value. The debtor was ruined and under the old law of imprisonment for debt might have SHAYS' REBELIJON 105 to go to jail. Thus it came to pass that a sense of distress, suffering and alarm overspread Massachusetts and involved a considerable portion of the population. The large portion of the people who were not so greatly troubled might have done more to make things better. They might have passed certain laws which would have tided over the difficulties for a time till the cause was removed; but they were not wise enough to do so. The result was that here and there people began to consult together to see what they could do. All the danger was coming through the courts by the ordering of the collection of debts, so the malcontents decided to prevent the sitting of the courts. This was, of course, a high-handed proceeding. The courts had been established by the people of Massachu- setts for the purpose of doing justice between man and man and they tried hard to do so. The judges were not responsible for the laws but it was their duty to enforce them. The people had made the laws and it is pretty hard to justify the resistance of a free people to laws of their own making, even though some may unjustly sujffer by it. In this case historians do not justify; they have done no more than to excuse on the ground of great provocation. Early in the history of the insurrection an important court was to be held in Springfield. The Court House stood on the east side of Main street, south of Sanford and, being just across the town brook, was reached by a small bridge. It was the sitting of the court here at this time that the insur- gents wished to prevent. Not wishing to proceed to bloodshed they left their guns of the Revolution at home and came armed with clubs. They gathered before the door of the Court House in so solid a mass that the judges as they arrived found their way obstructed. Before the judges walked the 106 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD high sheriff, General Mattoon of Amherst. "Make way for the court," said the sheriff. Nobody moved. "Make way for the court, I say," he repeated; and struck David Smith, Jr., of West Springfield, a painful blow with the flat of his sword. It is said that one man was thrown into the brook. However that may be, the crowd then gave way and the court was duly held. There soon got to be a feeling among the towns, particularly towns in Hampshire, Berkshire and Worcester counties, that something was wrong that might be righted; so that from Springfield and elsewhere delegates were sent to a convention to talk about these matters and see what could be done. But nothing was effectively done and the opposition to the sitting of the courts kept growing. Sometimes it succeeded; but not so in Taunton, where Judge Cobb, a former general of the Revolution, was holding court. When the insurgents arrived, he urged them to yield to the laws, concluding with these words: "Sirs! I shall sit here as a judge or die here as a general." The mob dispersed. At last there appeared military leaders and the forms of military organization and there was no longer an insurrection but a rebellion. The rebellion took its name from one of these leaders, Daniel Shays of Pelham, a hill town not far from Ludlow. Shays had no great ability but he had served with credit as a captain in the Revolution, he was a good talker and, in concert with Luke Day of West Springfield, Eli Parsons of Berkshire and an ex-minister named Ely, was very successful in rallying the malcontents about him. Luke Day is reported to have said that liberty is liberty to do as you like and make everybody else do as you would have them. Perhaps, if he ever said it, he did not say it seriously; for true liberty is freedom subject to laws made for the good of all, as Day SHAYS' REBELLION 107 and every other soldier of the Revolution well knew. Day is thought to have been abler than Shays, but Shays was acknowl- edged as the leader and even in adjoining states where the same troubles prevailed "Hurrah for Shays!" became a popular cry. As between the cause of Shays and that of law the people of Springfield were divided. Springfield, -"1^^ because of the Court House and the Ar- mory, became at once a great center of interest, as to which side should prevail, so that September Defending the Court House in Shavs Ki:iiEi.i,i(iN. 26, 1786 is memorable in our history. On that day the highest Court of the Commonwealth was to sit here, composed of the chief justice and three other judges and Shays meant to prevent it. His camp was near the comer of Main and Ferry streets. His men had no uniforms but could be told from the rest by a sprig of evergreen worn in the hat. The other side wore a piece of white paper in the same way. General Shep- 108 HISTORY OF SPRINGP^IELD ard of Westfield, a brave and magnanimous officer, was in the town with a force ready to protect the court. Then there were seen three thousand armed men marching up and down Main street, ready to fight each other on sufficient provocation. Almost all of them were from outside towns; but among the citizens themselves, neighbor was set against neighbor and the next moment men might be firing from one house to the next. The excitement was great, women and children trembling with fear; and we are not told whether school kept or not. Men were continually coming in from other towns and joining one camp or the other. More than one company of the state militia which arrived to support General Shepard, carried away by the "hurrah boys" of the other side, deserted in a body to Captain Shays. But there were staunch men left to the government side. Dr. Chauncey Brewer, going one night to see a sick person had to pass through Shays' lines and was an-ested by the sentries on Main street and brought into camp. Captain Shays ordered him to take the white paper from his hat. "No, Sir," said the doctor, "I shall not do it! Just give me a place to sleep." Twice he was ordered to doff the badge and twice refused. At last he was allowed to go home with his badge on. When the judges arrived they got safely to the Court House but as the grand jury did not dare to come nothing could be done. So the Shays party, having really accompHshed its object, went home. By this time the governor was thoroughly aroused. More and more he saw steady government going to pieces before his eyes and felt that something must be done. Loyal troops must be got and the state had no money to pay for them. He had to borrow money of Boston citizens to raise an army. This he did and was able to place General Lincoln at the head SHAYS' REBELLION 109 of 4,500 men. Of the troops raised here in the valley, General Shepard was in command. He at once proceeded to make himself strong at the Federal barracks, now called the Armory. None of the present buildings were there then ; but there was a building containing arms and in the woods a powder maga- zine, of which Magazine street is still a reminder. Captain Day was, meanwhile, drilling his men on West Springfield Common and making occasional raids. He cap- tured General Parks and Doctor Whitney in their sleighs and making a dash into Longmeadow, pulled one man out of bed and took him to West Springfield. Eli Parsons with his men of Berkshire was posted in Chicopee, so that, with Shays at Pelham, able quickly to descend upon the towns to the east, Springfield was in this way so surrounded that it was hoped to prevent General Shepard from being reinforced until Shays had captured the guns and ammunition at the arsenal, of which he was much in need. In fact. Day did capture, at Chicopee bridge, a supply of provisions sent to Shepard from Northampton, and Shepard began to be desperately afraid that he could not keep his force together until Lincoln's army should come up. By this time Lincoln's army was on the move to relieve Shepard and Shays saw that he must attack the arsenal at once or lose his cause. So he came off the heights of Pelham and appeared in Wilbraham with 1,100 men. The women and children of Wilbraham fled to Somers, but Shays kept on his way to Springfield. It was in the dead of winter and slow marching; so that Shepard was warned of their approach by a swift horseman from Wilbraham. He arranged his forces in two divisions; one on Main street, to keep Day from crossing over on the ice to join Shays and the rest he drew up before the arsenal and planted a howitzer in a good position 110 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD with several cannon to the rear. Several times he sent his aids on horseback to meet Shays on the Sixteen Acres road and demand what he wanted. Shays' reply was that "he wanted barracks; barracks he would have and stores." He was told that he must purchase them dear if he had them. It was about four o'clock when Captain Shays with his more than a thousand men was seen moving down the present State street by Benton Park from off the Bay road. Reaching the vicinity of the present memorial boulder, they halted. General Shepard sent an aid to inform Shays that if he came nearer he would be fired upon, whereupon Shays started his men. Two shots were then fired by Shepard, not aimed directly at the rebels but only intended to frighten them. This having no effect, a howitzer full of grape shot was discharged into the center of their column. This caused a disturbance and the second or third shot put the whole army to rout. They turned and fled in confusion without firing a gun, leaving several of their comrades dead on the field. With such a ridiculous ending to the dreaded march of Shays, one cannot speak of the field of battle, and in all the rebellion there was nothing that came any nearer to a battle. Had Shays been more of a leader he would have done either less or much more. As it was, he proved very like that king of France, who, with 20,000 men marched up a hill and then marched down again. Henceforth there was no fear for the safety of the Armory until the days of the Civil war. If we may still use military language of such a fiasco, we would say that Shays, after the rout, fell back on Five Mile pond, where, making a stand, he next day joined Parsons in Chicopee with such of his men as had not deserted. General Lincoln meanwhile arrived on the scene, emerging from the Bay road and joining Shepard at the Armoiy. Being the SHAYS' REBELLION 111 superior officer, he was from this time in charge and proceeded at once to break up what was left of the rebeUion. A part of his force pursued Shays to Amherst whence he retreated to the fastnesses of Pelham where he, perhaps, thought that nothing but death and taxes could get him. He afterwards went for safety into the State of New York where he died in poverty. His life and exploits, real and imaginary, were made the subject of a ballad which became a popular song, even beyond the limits of Massachusetts. The entire ballad of nineteen verses may be found in the "Poets and Poetry of Springfield." The ancient music is here given. M)- name was Shays in for-mer days, In Pel-ham I did dwell, Sir, ^i4r-dHid=:1=if 4"^H-^ — ^—^ — ii~ :p=zp=zpzzp: :tu=t==t:=^ -• — m — •- t i #__^_ p=?=^=zE=t ::1zz:::|==:j: 1^ Hut now I'm forced lo leave thai jjlace, Re-cause I did re - bel. Sir. &SEFE33E:E :1: d^t^tr-. -r iPzzpzzp" cf=-y^t--ti: IB General Lincoln ordered another part of his force to cross the river to encounter Day, who was still posted on West Springfield common ; while the light horse meanwhile went up the river on the ice to cut off any union of Day with Shays, Day's men precipitately fled to some point beneath the terrace of the ancient river bank, perhaps not far from the site of the old white church where they made a stand and prepared themselves to receive an attack. Another flight and they 112 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD were on the heights where they were met by the Hght horse. Then began another rout. Some fled to Northampton and some fell out by the way. Among the latter was one Cooley who .^_^^^^ hid under a conven- js"'^*r'^m^s^. jgj^|. haystack and thereafter went by the fe name of ' ' the haystack Colonel." The backbone of the rebellion was now broken. General Lin- coln was kept busy for some months in the counties of Worcester, Berkshire and northern Hampshire in suppressing small outbreaks ; but, finally, a general pardon was granted to those engaged in the rebellion who would take the oath of allegiance, which they all did, and "lived happily forever after." Shays' Rebellion, though local, had results affecting the whole country. The news of it reached Washington, in the quiet of his Mount Vernon home, and he was greatly stirred. That such a glorious peace as ended the Revolution should be succeeded by such disorder he thought a disgrace. It was not a resistance to tyrants but free men resisting a govern- ment which they had themselves set up, — a government of law replaced by anarchy. He seemed to see the great work of his life undone. It was partly for this reason that be began to give the great influence of his character and wisdom to the creation of a strong central government which might help the states to maintain order. He again became the leader of the people, and, in part, out of such apparently unfruitful soil as Shays' Rebellion grew the final union of the states and the adoption of the Constitution. CHAPTER VIII. OLD TIMES AND NEW— THE CHANGE TO MODERN WAYS — THE FIRST STEAMBOAT.— THE ARMORY- DISTINGUISHED VISITORS — 1789-1852. ELL me about old fashioned times," a small boy used to say to his mother, mean- ing the times when she was a girl. What really are the "old- fashioned times?" What is the old world and what the new? We use these words in different senses. We say that modem times began with the invention of printing and the discovery of America and, again, we say that ancient history is the history of the world before Christ, which we call B. C. But when we are thinking of old and new in Springfield we might properly say that the old fashioned times gave place to the new in the period between the birth of the nation by the adoption of the Constitution in 1789 and the incorporation of Springfield as a city in 1852. During this period the ways of life had greatly changed and causes began to be which later resulted in still further changes. In the earlier days, men and women, boys and girls, lived in a different way. Their work, their amusements, their 114 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD studies, their mode of travelling and even of eating and drinking were different. The change in so simple a matter as getting a drink of water is typical of everything else. Once a well sweep (page 24) stood by every door, except where there was a convenient spring. "The old oaken bucket, the moss covered bucket" is no more; there is not now a well sweep within the limits of Springfield. One of the first ancient customs to pass away was that of slavery. From the days of John Stewart there had been slaves in Springfield, all, with Map op Hampden County. that exception, black. Finally, people all felt that slavery was neither profitable nor right, and although the slaves had always been kindly treated as members of the family, yet the custom vanished of itself without the passing of any law against it. In this period, by the separation of Chicopee, Springfield came into the geographical form in which she has since re- mained, except for a slight change in the south line, and was henceforth the largest in population of the towns in the valley. For a time tliis was not so. West Springfield, at one OLD TIMES AND NEW 115 time, grew so rapidly as to be ahead of the mother town, and in the Revolution was called on to furnish more soldiers than Springfield; but the census of 1810 showed Springfield the more populous. Springfield, too, became the shire town of a new county. In the old county of Hampshire, which ex- tended from Connecticut to New Hampshire and Vermont and was flanked east and west by Worcester and Berkshire, Northampton had been a county town. When the old county was divided, the middle section retained the old name, taken from one of the old counties of Eng- land. The northern section was named for Benjamin Franklin and the southern for John Hampden, a famous English patroit, who, believing that "Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God," went of his free will to jail rather than pay the unjust ship money tax imposed by King Charles. He received his death wound fight- ing for the cause of Jiberty on one of the battlefields of the English revolution. Returning now to the ancient ways of life, we remember, as said in the second chapter, that in the very earliest times the people lived in houses made of logs and thatched with straw or grass. For windows they often had only oiled paper instead of glass. But things had gradually improved ; so that many of the boys and girls whose fathers went as soldiers in the Revolution lived in much larger and more convenient John Hampden. 116 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD houses. Nevertheless, the best of those houses were rather cold in winter. Neither furnaces nor stoves were known. The only fire was in the great kitchen fireplace, with some- times another fireplace in the parlor. The great fire, built from huge sticks, crackled and roared and looked very warm, as indeed it was, if one was near enough to it. It boiled the kettle, hanging on the crane, and baked the buckwheat cakes; but while it gave out heat it was sucking in a deal of cold from all parts of the house, so that one would be warm in front and cold on the back, unless he sat on a settle. A settle was a seat with a high back extending to the floor. Sometimes the chimney place was so large that the settle was inside and one could look up and see the stars. When bedtime came the great fire was useless. It con- sumed a vast quantity of wood, the preparation of which made the sound of "chop, chop, chop," a very familiar one at every house, and, as there would be no one to feed it during the night, it was carefully covered with ashes, in order to keep the coals alive until the next morning. vShould it go out in those days when matches were unknown, somebody would go to the neighbors for live coals. The bed rooms were, of course, pretty cold, but, thanks to the great feather beds, the sleepers got warni after awhile and were able to keep so, sometimes by the aid of close curtains, all around and above the bed. Just before getting in it, the bed would be heated by the warming pan, a brass pan containing live coals and moved about between the sheets. OLD TIMES AND NEW 117 In the meeting-house there were no fireplaces; but the women tried to keep warm by the aid of a Httle footstove, filled with hot coals. The children, too, were often very cold in school. In the school house at Tatham little Lydia would find the pie frozen in the dinner basket under her seat, but she lived through it all to a healthy old age. It is not so much what we endure as how well we learn to endure, that counts. People made their own but- ter and cheese and the boys milked cows and churned butter, while the girls early learned to spin ; for the cloth generally worn was made in the family and for this reason called "homespun." It took continual spin- ning to make the clothes for a large family. The flax for linen was raised on the farm, then dressed and carded; the wool, too, was raised at home. For the colors, if brown was wanted, the children had to gather butternut leaves for the dye. With all this, milking and churning, spinning and weaving, planting and hoeing, haying and husking, thresh- ing and gathering apples for cider, all going on in the family, there was not much time for young folks to go to school. One of the most useful farming tools was the flail. With it all the grain that made bread for the family was pounded out by hand on the bam floor. The thumping pooTsroxE ^M) Wakminc. Pan. 118 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD of the flail was as familiar as the chopping of the axe as it cut the cords of wood for winter use. An old-time farmer used to say that he could always tell whether the man doing the threshing was working by the day or the job. If the former. the flail seemed to say, "By — —the day, by- — -the day, by— — the day;" if by the job, the flail sang merrily, " By-the-job, by-the-job, by the job, job, job." Such is human nature that one is apt to accomplish more when he works for himself. When the right to do this is entirely cut off the result is slavery. Notice the farming operations, pictured on these two pages. Late in March or early in April comes maple sugar making and when the weather gets warm enough to put the sheep into the water, their wool is first washed and then sheared; during the slack time of summer, when planting and hoeing are over, rails can be split for mending the fences, and in the fall the boys can catch rabbits. All these were OLD TIMES AND NEW 119 familiar scenes hereabouts in olden times and are now in some parts of the country. One who wishes to recall in imagi- nation the way of jiving in the old days may visit the Day house in West Springfield and see the ancient relics. But about the beginning of the nineteenth century several events happened, which in the end changed all this and made Springfield, first, a large town, and then a city. The chief of these was the discovery of the useful power of steam; this meant steamboats and railroads. Others were the invention of the power loom and the spinning jenny, moved at first by water power; this meant the gathering of people into mills and the disappearance of cloth manufacture from the family. Modem machinery, in which Thomas Blanchard, of this town, won much fame as an inventor, began to take the place of human hands. The family life was all changed. There was less to be done and the bigger boys could go to school in summer, when before they could only be spared in the winter. With 120 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD all these changes there was more demand for work and more people began to come from other countries. As population increased the wild animals gave way before it. The panther retired to forests more remote; the beaver left the streams and the deer went further north and were not seen after 1820. The last bear known at Bear Hole came out of that dark lair about 1790 when Seth Smith was hoeing com. Wild turkeys lingered but the last survivors were those on Mount Nonotuck about 1850. The beautiful salmon that once leaped and danced in the rapids of Schonunganunk entirely disappeared, soon to be followed by the sturgeon and the shad, A century and a half had passed after the settlement and as yet all the crossing of the river had been by canoes, skiffs and scow ferry boats, when one day the minister of the old church foretold a bridge in coming time. "Parson Howard talks like a fool," said Colonel Worthington. But Parson Howard was right and in 1809 the first bridge was completed. Not being strong enough it went down stream; but in 1816 another was ready that was to outlast the century. Its great timbered arches were an object of admiration. When the large droves of cattle that once passed through the country were going over the bridge, running, pushing and throwing their horns about, it was up these arches that the foot traveler could run for safety. Both the bridges were built with money raised by a public lottery, for it was not until later that the evils resulting from getting money by chance were so clearly seen as to make games of chance to be forbidden by law. How Springfield looked from the river, below the town, in 1796, was described by President Dwight of Yale College, who was taking a horseback journey up the valley. "We took," says he, in his "Travels in New England and New OLD TIMES AND NEW 121 York," " a road along the bank of a river from Suffield through an almost absolute wilderness and crossed a ferry, one mile below Springfield. On the river we were presented with a very- romantic prospect. The river itself, for several miles, both above and below, one-fourth of a mile wide, was in full view. Agawam, a considerable tributary on the west, with a large and handsome interval on the tongue between the two streams. joined the Connecticut at a small distance above. The peak of Mount Tom rose nobly in the northwest, at a distance of twelve miles. A little eastward of the Connecticut the white spire of a Springfield church, embosomed in trees, animated the scene in a manner remarkably picturesque. On this side, immediately below the ferry, rose several rude hills, crossed by a sprightly mill stream. At their foot commenced an extensive intervale called Longmeadow; abo\-e which, in 122 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD the midst of groves and orchards, ascended the spire of Long- meadow church. The evening was just so far advanced, as, without obscuring materially the distinctness of our view, to give an inimitable softening to the landscape. "We arrived at sundown. The town is built chiefly on a single street, lying parallel with the river nearly two miles. The Old Toi.i. BRiixiK. The houses are chiefly on the western side. On the eastern a brook runs almost the whole length; a fact which is, I believe, singular. From the street a marsh extends about forty or fifty rods to the brow of an elevated pine plain. The waters of this marsh are a collection of living springs, too cold and too active to admit of putrefaction on their surface; and for tliis reason, probably, the town is not unhealthy. Part of this marsh has been converted into meadow. When OLD TIMES AND NEW 12S the rest has undergone the same process, the beauty of the situation will be not a little improved. The houses of Spring- field are more uniformly well built than those of any other inland town in the state, except Worcester. An uncommon appearance of neatness prevails almost everv^vhere, refreshing the eye of a traveler." On a Monday, the 27th of November, 1824, a crowd of people was gathered at the foot of Elm street and at other places on the bank of the river. They were watching the com- ing of the first steamboat seen in Springfield. The Barnett must have been an object of great interest as she rounded the bend of the stream and steamed towards the town. On this occasion the following are supposed to have been the words of THE STURGEON TO THE STEAMBOAT. " Wliat fur ye're makiii' such a dashin' And through the water such a splashin'r I'll tell ye what it's no the fashion In these 'ere parts, To make such a confounded buzzin'; Take care or ye'll disturb our dozin'! What are ye? first or second cousin To the Sea Sarpent?" Thus did a local rhymer express himself in one of the news- papers. It was in this period that river steamboats were displacing stages, afterwards themselves to be displaced by railroads. The sturgeon, a fish about as big and long as a man's body, has not, it is believed, been seen in this part of the river for the past twenty-five years. 124 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD A line of small steamboats was established between Spring- field and Hartford. On one of these Charles Dickens embarked when he came to this town in 1842. "It certainly was not called," he wrote, "a small steamboat without reason. I should think it must have been about half a pony power. Mr. Paap, the celebrated dwarf, might have lived and died happily in the cabin, which was fitted with common sash windows, like an ordinary dwel- ling house. These windows had bright red curtains too, hung on slack strings across the lower panes, so that it looked like the ])arlor of a Lilliputian public house, which had got afloat in a flood or some other water accident, and was drifting nobody knew where. But even in this chamber there was a rocking chair. It would be impossible to get on anywhere, in America, without a rocking chair." It was just before this visit of the great novelist that the railroad had been built from Boston to Springfield. The people of the town had been eager to bring this to pass. They knew that great things would come of it and Justice Willard declared in a public meeting that one would be able to go from Springfield to Boston "between sun and sun." But when he added "and back again," there were those who thought it a wild prophecy. Pictures of the early engines and cars look queer to our eyes. The passengers had to endure some bumping over rough track but they welcomed something faster Connecticut River Steamboat IN A Flood. From "Marco Paul at the Spring- field Armory" 1853. OLD TIMES AND NEW 125 than the old yellow stages, with four horses and a bugle, that connected Springfield with Boston, Albany, Hartford and other towns. The chief engineer of the new railroad was Major Whistler, whose portrait hangs in the City Library. He brought his boy James with him when he came to reside here. James used to amuse his schoolmates with his clever drawings and afterwards went abroad, where he became one of the famous artists of the world. His paintings and etch- ings hang in the great galleries of Europe. When the rail- road was built from Springfield to Hartford it made necessary the removal of the ancient ceme - tery at the foot of Elm street. The training ground and the pound had long since gone and for the cemetery there was now provided a beautiful tract of hill and dell which, for a cemetery, is exceptionally near the heart of the city, yet so full of birds and squirrels, old oaks and tall pines, as to be interesting to a naturalist. To this place was removed the dust of Mary Pynchon, of her brother, the Major, of the brave Captain Holyoke and the good French peddler. The selection of this spot was made by William B. O. Peabody, clergyman, poet, naturalist and a man of pure and refined character, w^hose life, most of it spent here, was a blessing to the town. By reason of his knowledge of birds the celebrated Audubon once came here to visit him. Verses by him are given on page 39. Tw^o notable men visited Springfield at about the close of this period. One was Louis Kossuth, the Hungarian patriot, a champion of freedom, an exile from his countrv, and a 126 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD master of thirteen languages. He made here an address in English. The other was Father Mathew, the great apostle of total abstinence, whose wonderful work in Ireland had filled the world with his fame and made the temperance reform respected and popular. By his own efforts for temperance he had remarkably reduced the amount of crime committed in his own country. Coming to Springfield in 1849 and stand- ing in the church of his own faith, then located on the cor- ner of Union and Willow streets, he administered the pledge to people of all faiths. Many societies that are today organized for total abstinence bear his honored name. The Armory has been a great help to the prosperity of Springfield. We have seen that Washington ap- proved of the location here. When president he passed through the town and his diary describes his careful in spec- mminii ^<-.ja*r*,^_..«_-«iir tion. Little haci as yet been done; but later such buildings were erected as Theobald Mathew. OLD TIMES AND NEW 127 allowed a large manufacture. As the words are used in the United States, an armory is a place for the manufacture of arms and an arsenal a place where they are stored. It was decided that the f^nii^or V^to ceiling, * * 5!-' L^n 15 fellow. heavy work of forging the bar- rels should be done at the Water- shops, where the trip hammer could be run by water power, and on the hill, "Armory Hill," should be done the lighter work of filing, milling and assembling. Walnut street was then run straight through the woods and over the plain to connect the two parts of the Armory, and on the hill there began to be, as it were, almost a village by itself, com- posed largely of armorers, with even lawyers' offices, and a bank. So distinct were these commun- ities that there was rivalry be- tween the boys of the "Hill" and the "Street," and snowball and other fights were common between "Hillers" and "Streeters." When a boy of either set passed the line of School and Spring streets he was sub- ject to attack by the boys of the other side. The Armory has long been noted for its excellent guns and the old "Springfield musket" did good service in the 128 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD Civil war; but, good as it was, the present Springfield rifle shows what may be accomplished by continual improvement. The tower of the Arsenal is eighty-eight and one-half feet high and among those who have ascended it for the fine view of this valley was the poet Longfellow. In his day a floor was nearly filled with guns, stacked in frames. His attention was called by Mrs. Longfellow to the fact that these stacked arms resembled the pipes of an organ ; and to this circumstance is due one of the finest poems ever written in the cause of universal peace. The prophecy in the second stanza was fully realized a few vears later in the Civil war. OLD TIMES AND NEW 129 THE ARSENAL AT SPRINGFIELD. This is the Arsenal. From floor to ceihng, Like a huge organ, rise the burnished arms; But from their silent pipes no anthem pealing Startles the villages with strange alarms. Ah! what a sound will rise, how wild and dreary, When the death-angel touches those swift keys! What loud lament and dismal Miserere Will mingle with their awful symphonies! I hear even now the infinite fierce chorus, The cries of agony, the endless groan. Which through the ages that have gone before us. In long reverberations reach our own. On helm and harness rings the Saxon hammer, Through Cimbric forest roars the Norseman's song, And loud, amid the universal clamor. O'er distant deserts sounds the Tartar gong. I hear the Florentine, who from his palace Wheels out his battle-bell with dreadful din, And Aztec priests upon their teocallis Beat the wild war-drums made of serpent's skin; The tumult of each sacked and burning village ; The shout that every prayer for mercy drowns; The soldiers' revels in the midst of pillage; The wail of famine in beleaguered towns; 130 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD The bursting shell, the gateway wrenched asunder, The rattling musketry, the clashing blade; And ever and anon, in tones of thunder, The diapason of the cannonade. Is it, O man, with such discordant noises. With such accursed instruments as these, Thou drownest Nature's sweet and kindly voices, And jarrest the celestial harmonies? Were half the power, that fills the world with terror, W^ere half the wealth, bestowed on camps and courts. Given to redeem the human mind from error. There were no need of arsenals nor forts; The warrior's name would be a name abhorred! And every nation, that should lift again Its hand against a brother, on its forehead Would wear forevermore the curse of Cain! Down the dark future, through long generations. The echoing sounds grow fainter and then cease ; And like a bell, with solemn, sweet vibrations, I hear once more the voice of Christ say, "Peace!" Peace! and no longer from its brazen portals The blast of War's great organ shakes the skies! But beautiful as songs of the immortals The holy melodies of love arise. —Longfellow, 1807-1882 JmMm^w^ Entrance to Springfield over the Old Toll Bridge. CHAPTER IX. THE NEW CITY.— ANTI-SLAVERY.— THE CIVIL WAR. WE have now come to the year 1852. As the new world reckons youth and age, Springfield was no longer young. With age had come numbers ; the population had reached 12,000 and the town was already not only a mother of towns, but a grandmother. The size of the popula- tion made necessary a change in the method of government. For over two hundred years the voters had all met together for the town business, gathering first under some tree, then in some private house, next in the meeting-house and last in the town hall on State street. At first the settlement was called a plantation, for this is all it was, a tract of planted ground in a wilderness and surrounded by wild beasts and Indians. This word had long been replaced by the word 132 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD "town," meaning a community whose affairs are governed by selectmen chosen by all the voters meeting together in one place. This plan now becoming impracticable because of the increasing number, the General Court of Massachusetts granted a charter or body of laws for the regulation of affairs by which the government was to be by a city council and mayor chosen by the voters meeting in wards, then first created. Upon the acceptance of this charter April 21, 1852, the old town became a young city, the first in western Massachusetts. From this time there has been no essential change in the territorial limits, but each census has shown continued growth of population. Every town which has been incorporated into a city has its corporate seal. A seal is an engraved stamp which, being impressed upon paper or wax, shows that what is written or printed on the paper is genuine and has such authority as the owner of the seal can give it. The effect of the seal on the paper is, of course, to make a raised impression, but some- times a likeness of the seal is printed from a plate like type. By such a printing a book or document is not really or legally sealed, but for many purposes this is sufficient. The real seal is in the custody of the city clerk. The seal of the city of Springfield, as adopted, was de- scriptive of what the town had been and then was. In the lower left-hand quarter is a view of the river with boats and with houses on the bank. In the right-hand quarter is the house built by John Pynchon, or "old fort." Above, nearly the whole field is occupied by a view of a railroad train passing out of the station, as the station was then, THE NEW CITY 133 and crossing the river. In the upper part of the seal is the United States Arsenal. Thus here are represented commerce by rail and river, manufactures and history. There is not, as in the seals of Connecticut and Vermont, any suggestion of agriculture. This only shows how the old "plantation" was becoming lost in the modem city. When the charter was accepted the first thing to be done was to elect a mayor and the members of the city council. The latter was composed of a board of nine aldermen and a common council. There were two candidates for mayor and both eventually held the office; but for the first time Caleb Rice was chosen. He was then the high sheriff of the county and had removed to Springfield from West Springfield. He had a daughter Elizabeth, who, when she grew to womanhood, went to Italy for study and married a citizen of that country. She wrote verses and, under her married name of Bianciardi, published a book called "At Home in Italy." Soon after the incorporation of the city there was built a City Hall, a large and towered building, holding all the city offices and also having a big audience room for public meetings. There was a bell in the tower that took up the work of the church bell, in announcing to the people, in the ancient fashion, that the hour of nine o'clock at night had come. It was also the bell of the clock, striking the hotirs. The nine o'clock bell was at last discontinued and in later years re- placed by the so-called curfew or bell at half -past nine. F'or half a century the City Hall was a favorite for large political meetings, fairs and concerts, but in 1905 it was destroyed by fire and the great bell fell to the ground. An exhibition was being held in the large hall. xVt the noon hour this hall was nearly deserted. A kerosene lamp was burning and a monkey got loose. Whether the monkey 134 HIS! ORY OF SPRINGFIELD overturned the lamp and caused the fire is not certainly- known. The fire was the occasion of a fine example of devotion to duty by two assistants in the office of the city clerk. Their names were Edith M. Ware and Bertha B. Fuller. They had both been pupils in Springfield schools. For the protection of the priceless records of the city there was a great fire-proof vault. It was necessary to take out the records during the day for use, but at its close they were replaced in the vault. City Hall. 1854-1905. At the beginning of the fire the city clerk was absent. When the knowledge of the fire reached his ofBce it had made much headway and danger was near. The first impulse, of course, would be to flee, and, indeed, everyone was fleeing from the building ; but there were the heavy books of priceless records lying about. The two clerks gathered them all up, placed them all in the vault and then shut and locked the ponderous door. This took time and courage. Meanwhile the fire was upon them and they were but just able to escape; in fact, ANTI-SLAVERY 135 Miss Fuller, arriving at the door of the building, was so over- come by the smoke that she had to be rescued by others. Thus the lesson of doing one's duty, having been early learned, received its magnificent illustration in the face of danger and death and becomes a part of the history of the city. We recall the motto of John Pynchon, when, self-interest tempting him to remove from Springfield and leave the to^vn to its fate, he wrote that he should q .a ^^ ^ While Springfield was yet a town, there began to be a great deal said about slavery, as it existed in the South, and its spread into the new states. Among the people of Springfield, some of them were deeply interested. Most of them believed that slavery was wrong and a curse to the country and some wanted to do what they could to help the slaves. The laws were against them and forbade aiding a runaway slave, but they believed there was, in this case, a higher law, above the laws of men. Accordingly they arranged with others of the same opinions, who lived in other states, to aid the slaves who tried to escape from their masters. When a slave, traveling through the woods by night and successful in eluding the bloodhounds on his track, at last got into a free state north of Maryland, he would go to the house of one of the friends of freedom of whom he had heard in some secret way. Here he would be kept through the day and at night he would start for the house of some other friend, further north. Thus he would keep on until he reached Canada, and, that being a British province, as soon as he touched her soil he became lawfully free. The line of escape from Mary- land to Canada, by reason of the secrecy and night traveling, was called "the underground railroad," and the houses of the friends of freedom made the different stations. 136 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD ^l\lb.^ The house of Doctor Osgood, minister of the old church, no longer the only church, was one of the stations. It was on Main street, just below Howard street. When the runaway arrived, before light in the morning, he was given a break- fast and put to bed in a little back room which the Doctor called "the prophet's chamber." At night he started again on his journey. In one of these years as many as fifty slaves were sheltered by the min- ister. It is evident that Doctor Osgood was a man of sympathy and kindness and had the courage to stand by what he believed. He was interesting in other ways, blunt and witty in his speech, as illus- trated in the stories still current about him. All his life in the minis- try was spent in Springfield and he died an aged and honored man. When he was visiting a school, as a member of the committee, the teacher wrote a figure " 9" on the blackboard, without closing the loop at the top. " What's that," said the doctor, "a hook?" This amused the scholars and probably made the teacher more careful about figures. Among the citizens of Springfield who took an active interest in anti-slavery, there is none more famous than John Brown, but he was not then famous; he was only known as a wool merchant with his warehouse near the railroad and his house at one time was on the north side of Franklin street, about one hundred feet from Main street and is yet standing. He was more concerned about slavery than wool. His soul was on fire with indignation, that man should hold property S\MUEL B. ()sGr><)l) ANTI-SLAVERY V3'i .A i)() //' in man. He prayed much about it; but what could he, a wool merchant, do except to help the slaves along on the under- ground railroad, as others did ? There was no sacri- fice that he would not make. His famil}- felt as strongly about slavery as he did and on one occa- sion father, mother and children agreed that some money which was needed for furnishing the parlor of the Franklin street house should be used for the runawav slaves. The Slave Motiikk. 138 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD One evening there was an address by the eminent Charles Sumner, who, as senator from Massachusetts afterwards was almost killed on account of his speeches against slavery. After the address Sumner and Brown went into the back store of Rufus Elmer, a Main street shoe dealer and ardent abolitionist. They were talking of the slavery question, when Sumner said, "Mr. Brown, slavery is doomed; but not in 3^our day or in mine." Brown, raising high his hand, brought it down w4th decision, saying devoutly, "I hope to God to die in the cause." Not long after he went to Kansas and engaged in the struggle to make the new state a free state. He and his family risked their lives there and one of his sons was killed. He became widely known as " Ossawatomie Brown." He then went to Virginia and attemped to set in execution his plan to free the slaves, bv arming them with pikes. It failed and he was hanged for treason against the commonwealth of A^ir- ginia. But the countrv was stirred and this event was one of those that brought on the Civil war. It was not long before the soldiers of the National army were going to battle with the song of "John Brown's body lies mouldering in the gra\-e But liis soul goes marching on." Its strains were wafted back to his old home in Springfield and the children in the public schools were singing it. Brown made a mistake as to how slavery could be ended, but his was a great heart true to God and his fellow men, and really helped in the overthrow of slavery in a way that he did not think. John Brown of Ossawatomie spake on his dying day: " I will not have to shrive my soul a priest in Slavery's pay. But let some poor slave-mother whom I have striven to free. With her children, from the gallows-stair put up a prayer for me! " ANTI-SLAVERY 139 John Brown of Ossawatomie, they led him out to die; And lo! a poor slave-mother with her little child pressed nigh. Then the bold, blue eye grew tender, and the old harsh face grew mild, As he stooped between the jeering ranks and kissed the negro's child! The shadows of his stormy life that moment fell apart ; And they who blamed the bloody hand forgave the loving heart. That kiss from all its guilty means redeemed the good intent, And round the grizzly fighter's hair the martyr's aureole bent! " — Whit tier. On April 5, 1857, died Springfield's last survivor of the Revolution, familiarly known to the children as "Grandpa Edwards." He had long been a feature in the processions on the Fourth of July, riding in a carriage and returning the salutations of the bystanders. His funeral was the occasion of military display, with martial music. There used to be much gay color and decoration in the militia, all of which was laid aside for serious business when the Civil war came on in 1861 . The City Guards, who were out at Grandpa Edwards' funeral, wore blue frock coats, light trousers and looked very formidable in their towering bear skin hats. The Horse Guards used to wear red coats, white trousers and chapeaux, like those of the Knights Templar, carrying a black or white plume. They carried sabres and had pistol holders each side of the saddle. The Light Infantry, who had flourished before 1 844, wore red swallow-tailed coats, white trousers, and on their conical hats wore fountain plumes, that is, several plumes drooping. By their side they carried canteens. The parade ground was the plain around 140 HISTORY OF SPRINGITELI) The Spirit of Training Dav. the lately accepted Gerrish Park. Training Day was one of the great days of the year to old and young. As the last of the soldiers of the Revolution were dropping into their graves, events began to happen which in the end brought forth a mightier armv than was ever marshalled in this country be- fore or since. One of these, as we have seen, was John Brown's raid in Virginia, voicing the feelings, though not the policy, of a large part of the north ; but the culminat- ing one was the election of Abraham Lincoln to the presidency. Brown ineffectually struck at slavery, but it was for the great president in the midst of a war that shook the very foundations of the nation, to strike slavery down and give freedom to millions of people. It was at Chicago, in 1860, that Lincoln was nominated, and the president of the convention was George Ashmun of this city, a distinguished and able man. He had been in Congress and was an intimate friend of the great Daniel Webster, whose famous speeches had already taught the people that the Union could not legally be broken by the secession of any one or more of the states. Webster used often to be in Springfield, visiting Ashmun, and together they fished in the brooks of Granby or limited woodcock within the present limits of f'orest Park. A memorial of Ashmun remains on the lawn, where was once his residence, at the comer of School and Mulberry streets. Standing there with his little daughter and looking THE CTVn. WAR 141 at a small sapling, he remarked, "As the twig is bent, the tree's inclined," and twisted the two stems of the sapling. The great elm still stands to teach its lesson that it is in child- hood and youth that character is formed. After the Chicago Convention had nominated Lincoln, Mr. Ash- mun, as chairman of the com- mittee, went to Mr. Lincoln's home to inform him of the fact. Some friends had sent in a hamper of wine that the committee and others might drink his health. But ]\Ir. Lincoln, having early in life seen the evil of intemperance, never touched strong drink or offered it in his home. On this occasion, also, he showed the courage of his opin- ions and cold water took the place of wine. The inauguration of Lincoln w^as quickly followed by the loss of Fort Sumter at the hands of the rising South. From Springfield, of course, went forth brave men who should fight the dreadful battles of a four-years' war, to save the Union. Where are now Wilbraham avenue and other streets east of it was a regimental camp, drilling and awaiting orders to move. The children had a share in the great events. The girls made "comfort bags" which held needles, thread and other little needful things for homeless soldiers who had no sisters to sew on buttons or mend a rent and the boys collected money to pay for those things. There were men needed in the Armon' as well as on the field and the works were run night and day. AsHMUN Memorial,. 142 HIvST(Jin OF SPJiLNGIlELl) For four years the war went on, with alternating successes and defeats for the north until at last the victories won by General Grant indicated that he would, in the end, bring all out right. Guiding all was the wise Lincoln, criticised, reviled, Making Comfort Bags. weighed down with responsibiHtv, but looking always to a Higher Power for help for himself and the nation. One day the bells of Sy)ringfi.el(l rang out with joy; the President had made a proclamation freeing the slaves. It was very different from the time when the bell of the old Methodist church on the corner of Union and Mulberry streets was tolled, the day when John Brown was hanged. Only a few years had passed and what, at first, seemed an idle dream of THE CIVIL WAR 143 an enthusiast was now an accomplished fact. Thus "Man proposes and God disposes." With great wisdom Lincoln had chosen the day and made the proclamation in which may be read this sentence, " Upon this act, sincerely believed to be an act of justice, warranted by the Constitution, upon military necessity, I invoke the considerate judgment of mankimd and the gracious favor of Almighty God." In the spring of 1865 came the close of the war, quickly followed by the martyrdom of the President and the linking of his name as saviour of the country with that of Washington, its father. The regiments from Springfield and vicinity were mustered out of service and, returning to the city, made their last march through Main street, their ranks thinned by death and themselves looking worn and tired. But they had done their share in proving the truth of Webster's words, "Liberty and Union, one and inseparable, now and forever." Upon the results of the Revolution and the Civil war the nation rests in security. It was not many weeks after the end of this war that General Grant made a brief visit to this city. He had fought many battles in which his soldiers were armed with the Springfield musket, and of course, he was interested in the place of its manufacture. He inspected the Armory on the Hill and also the Watershops. He was greeted by a great crowd of citizens near the railroad station and taken upon a high platform whence he was introduced by the mayor, but he made no speech. His deeds were mighty, but on public occasions his words were few. There seemed to be nothing military in his appearance, except a narrow cord of yellow braid around his hat and the single star on his shoulder. Among those who came to this city and spoke in the cause of freedom in the days of anti-slavery and the Civil war were 144 IIISrOHY OF SPHINGFIKLD Carl vSchurz, the exiled German patriot, who, after becoming a citizen of the United States, becamie a general in the army in the Civil war and afterwards a famous statesman; and Frederick Douglass, once a slave and afterwards an eloquent orator, who held high positions in the gift of the nation. An interesting woman who resided here w^as Eliza Farrer, a writer for children. She had had many experiences in various parts of the world and wrote about them in a book, which she called "Recollections of Seventy Years." Two men who had a very wide reputation were the editors, Samuel Bowles and Josiah Gilbert Holland. Doctor Holland wrote many books, of which his " Letters to Young People" were practical and popular. He wrote "Bay Path," an historical novel about Mary Pynchon, and started the Century magazine. There is a line profile of his face on his monument in the old cemetery, made by St. Gaudens, the famous sculptor of the statue in honor of Deacon Chapin on Merrick Park. Samuel Bowles, the second in the line of four journalists of that name, was one of the founders of modern journalism. He was once unjustly imprisoned in another state for telling the truth about a man who did much evil; for he believed that his journal should be outspoken when the pubHc interests were at stake. CHAPTER X. A LOOK BACKWARDS— THE SPANISH WAR— THE TWENTIETH CENTURY. X THE year 1886, Springfield celebrated the two liundred and fiftieth anniversary of the settlement. A quarter of a millennium had gone by and people looked back and compared the then present with the past. There was an oration and a great procession, including an historical pageant in which many boys and girls took part. The times of William Pynchon were illustrated in costume by those in the procession. The chief marshal was William Pynchon, seventh in descent from the founder. It is when looking back from one of these 1 I . . ^ . view pomts that we realize how great has been the progress of the city in this long period. In this last chapter it will be well to select two examples and see how the modern times differ from the old. One of these exam- ples shall be the means of putting out fires and the other the education of children. In early days houses were, some of them, shingled, but many thatched with straw. Of course great care had to be taken lest a spark should get into the straw, as it might do from a burning chimne\' or from some one carrying coals through the street. So the town voted that no one should carry uncovered fire along the street and that every man should sweep out his chimney every month in winter and every two months in summer. He was obliged also to keep 146 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD a ladder of sixteen rungs for better getting at the roof. One man was fined for smoking on a haycock. In order that water might be always at hand the ditch or brook in front of the houses was to be kept well scoured and a good stream running. So when fire came and the roof caught some went up the ladder and others passed up water from the brook. Until after the Revolution this was the only way of putting out a fire. At last some of the citizens bought a little fire engine and gave it to the church for the use of the town. Of course there was no steam about it; the power of steam was not vet known. The engine was merely a pump on wheels. There was a small reservoir for water, called a tub, and the pump handles were long wooden rods at each side called brakes. In order to see it in action let us suppose that it is the year 1810, a year in which a fire occurred in a house on the corner of Dwight and State streets. Whoever has discovered the fire has shouted the alarm. Everybody who hears it shouts "Fire! Fire! Fire!" at the top of his voice. The cry is taken up until probably from Mill river to Round Hill people are shouting "fire!" The bell on the old cliurcli is ringing. Everyman is obliged to keep a fire bucket and some have bags in which to carry out articles to a place of safety. When a man leaves his house he catches up his bucket, or if he is not at home, ^mvmifmimmif TiT THE OLD FIRE DEPARTMENT 147 his wife tosses it out to some one who is hurrying by and will give it to the owner when he meets him at the fire. Meanwhile the engine men have opened the door of the engine house, then standing at a place which is now in the roadway of State street, near Market. The machine is pulled out and run up the street to the burning building. Men are jfc- r yife*^ V/'*^''- l!) The city is also known outside by the historical publica- tions of the house of Gurdon Bill, who was the donor of the Soldiers' i\Ionument on Court Square, and its successor, the C. A. Nichols Company. The publications of this house include Holland's "Life of Lincoln," Abbott's "History of the Civil War," "Our First Century," "History for Ready Reference," a book much used in school and college, and " Rise and Fall of Nations." Green's "History of Springfield," published at the time of the quarter millennial of the city, largely as a personal contribution of Air. Nichols to the occasion, is a monumental work reflecting credit on author and publisher. To it this book is indebted for fourteen plates, like those on pages 20, 33, 121. Other books dealing with local his- tory, to wliich the reader is referred for further study, are Morris' "Early History of Springfield," Holland's "History of Western Massachusetts," Copeland's "History of Hampden County," Everts' "History of the Connecticut Valley," Ellis and Morris' "History of King Philip's War," Burt's "First Century of the History of Springfield," King's "Hand- book of Springfield," Wright's "Indian Deeds of Hampden County," Ward's "Springfield in the Spanish-American War," Stebbins' " Wilbraham," Bagg's " West Springfield , " Chapin's "Inhabitants of Old Springfield" and " Old High School," Storrs' " Longmeadow, " Palmer's " Chicopee Street," and Barrows' "Poets and Poetry of Springfield." "I have but one lamp," said Patrick Henry, "by which my feet are guided and that is the lamp of experience." The experience of the past, embodied in history, as it becomes better known, helps us better to understand our own time and thus to make better the coming times. Interest in histor- ical study is sometimes promoted by the drama, as with Shakespeare's Henry VIII and Richard III. How this can be 160 HISTORY OF SPIilN(iFIEIJ:) done locally was shown by the historical pageant presented by the Central High School in 1909, in which costume, music and action united in presenting to the imagination a striking picture of Colonial days. In 1892 occuiTed the four hundredth anniversary of the discovery of America by Columbus. In Springfield the event was celebrated by the Hebrews. Rejoicing in this free republic, they gathered for religious services; and also listened to an address by one of the sons of Springfield, descended from the two townsmen who met their death at the foot of Long Hill, as described in the fifth chapter. As may be inferred from designs of the citv seal, manu- factures and trade have long since replaced agriculture as the basis of Springfield's prosperity. William Pynchon himself was a trader, an honest and successful one, and there have been others like him in these respects, some bom here and others coming from elsewhere. Our mechanics and manu- facturers alone would make an interesting study. They are the direct representatives of William Pynchon, who dealt in native furs and foreign goods and made boards and shingles. If they know the history of the town they have before them his illustrious example of honorable dealing. It was just before the Civil war that Horace Smith and Daniel B. Wesson became partners in the manufacture of pistols. When the war came on there was great demand for pistols and these two men acquired fortunes, for they w^ere good mechanics and understood business. They trusted each other and others trusted them and wanted their good work. They did not kee]3 all their wealth to themselves and their families. One of Mr. Smith's ways of doing good was by helping young men and women to an education. He enjoyed this; and, dying without immediate heirs, gave most of his SOME FORMS OF PUBT.IC SERVICE 161 property to charity. The Horace Smith J^^und perpetuates one of his own favorite ways of doing good. His Ufe may be taken as an illustrious example of Benevolence, a quality of character which is not denied to any, whether rich or poor. Daniel B. Wesson was also benevolent, for, although he left a numerous posterity, he devoted an important part of his estate to the building of two liospitals. For our purposes, however, we may take his life as illustrating another moral qualitv. Whatever he made or had made, he determined should be made the best it could be, whether it was a pistol or a great hospital or the fence about the hospital. On one occasion, reading that a pistol of his manufacture had fallen from a shelf and. being fired by the fall, killed a woman, he lay awake nearly all night studying a device for preventing such an accident in the future, and before morning broke he had the invention in his mind. He thought whatever was worth doing at all was worth doing well and his life may be taken as an illustrious example of Perfection of Workmanship, a quality of highest import and almost universal application, if only in something so humble as the putting a point on a jjencil or making a loaf of bread. A second man, Primus P. Mason, may be mentioned here, of the race of Peter Swink of the third chapter, who by industry and thrift acquired property and, dying without issue, exe- cuted a cherished plan by giving his estate to found a Home for Aged Men. In early times it was the men who did most of the things of which history has to tell; but in later times the women have taken a useful part in the public life of the city. Among them was Clara T. Leonard, who gave herself, heart and soul, to prison reform in the interest of women. Deeply interested in the welfare of the young, she founded the Hampden County 162 IITS'lOin' OF SPRINGFIEIJ) Children's Aid Society, whose work is still going on. A second organization working for the same purpose is the Society of St. Vincent de Paul, named for the famous French x^hilanthro- pist. Both exist for the care of homeless and suffering children. Another devoted woman was Adelaide A. Calkins, who, with Ellen B. Merriam, a graduate of the Springfield High School, was the first among the women of the city to fill one of its public offices by becoming a member of the school committee. She gave twelve years of fruitful service to the cause of education and other years as an official of the Commonwealth towards improving the almshouses of the State of Massachusetts. United in friendship, Mrs. Leonard and Mrs. Calkins spent manv vears in work for the common good. Adelaihe a. Cat, kins. Clara T. Leonard. In 1898 there was war between the L'nited States and Spain, growing out of inhumanities practiced by the vSpanish authorities on the Cubans. The seat of war was the island of Cuba. (Jnc morning in May the Springfield companies of the Second Regiment, composed almost entirely of young- men, some of them scarceh^ out of their boyhood, marched from the State Arsenal tli rough Main street to the railroad station. How much the composition of the citizens had changed since the early days when they were almost all of THE SPANISH WAR 163 English or Scotch stock is shown by the fact that among the Hst of officers and privates occur names that are Irish, Ger- man, Scandinavian, French, Itahan and Hebrew. The regiment camped in Framingham and soon was on its way to Florida, whence it was to embark. ]\Ierrily did the soldiers sing " Tramp, tramp, tramp the boys are marching; Cheer tip Cuba, we will come," but once on Cuban soil they were face to face with the horrors of war. Young Arthur Packard, who first enlisted at fifteen, was killed at the battle of El Caney. Thomas Boon, having been transferred to the signal corps, was sent up in a war balloon for observa- tions on the enemy at the siege of Santiago. The balloon, ha\-ing been struck at a great height by fragments of a shell, fell, and young Boon was caught in a tree and entangled with its anchor and was afterwards dropped in the water of a creek. He received severe injuries which proved fatal after his return to Springfield. There were others in these companies who met then- death on the battlefield or at the hand of exposure and disease, including Henry Macdonald, chief of the city's police. They died for the freedom of Cuba and their names arc on the monu- ment at the foot of Round Hill. There was an old saying of Akthlk H. Packari). 164 HIS'JOR^ OF SPRINGFIELD the Romans, "Duke et deconmi est pro patria mort,'' — "It is sweet and fitting to die for one's country." These went at the call of their country to die for the people of another land and their names and deeds are cherished, together with the names and deeds of those who fell in the making and the saving of this nation. Equally honored, however, although not mourned, are those who returned to live honorable lives under the banner of peace. In the year 1800 the population of Springfield was 2250; in 1900 it was 62,059. A large part of the latter increase had, of course, been due to immigration from abroad. The large families of the older stock had become the exception and now came people from Sweden, Italy, Poland, Hungary, Greece, Armenia and China. There had been an increasing Irish and German element from earlier times. There were people of French descent from Canada but not in any number from France itself; nor from Spain, Portugal or Japan; but there were Hebrews from many countries. These all have come, giving up their old allegiance, to take the name American, to defend the Constitution and to love and honor the Stars and Stripes. Like the ancient settlers of Pynchon's day, they have had to give up many old ways and to learn what, for this country, are better ones. Like the earlier settlers it is for them gradually to lose sight of old customs, the old language and the old nationality in the fusion of peoples in the new land. "Americanism," as President Roosevelt has said, " is a question of principle, of purpose, of idealism, of character; and not a matter of birthplace, or creed, or line of descent." This chapter ends with the nineteenth century. The last century of the second millennium of the present era was about to begin, called the twentieth century. The people of Spring- field felt the importance of the event. As the hour drew on to THE TWENTIETH CENTURY 1G5 midnight, some gathered in their places of worship, others were upon the streets or awaiting in their homes the next stroke of the clock. The bells of the city rang out all together, tolling in slow and measured strokes the death of the old century. When the public clocks began to strike the hour of twelve, the bells changed to joyful notes of greeting for the century just beginning, and the great guns on Armory Square began to thunder their salute. This was in the two hundred and sixty -fifth year of the history of Springfield and the one hundred and twenty-fifth year of the independence of the United States. 166 HISTORY OF SPUINGFIEI.D ANNIVERSARY HYMN Sung May 25, 1886 At the 250th Anniversary of the City of Springfield Tune: " Portuguese Hymn." O God of our fathers! Their Guide and their Shield, Who marked out Thy pathway through forest and field. We stand where they stood, and with anthems of praise Acknowledge Thy goodness, O x'Vncient of Days! Thou leddest Thy people of old like a flock; They trusted in Thee as their Sheltering Rock ; The centuries pass, — Thou art ever the same, And children of children still trust in Thy name. 'Twas here in the wilderness, silent, untamed, The gospel of freedom and grace they proclaimed, — - The gospel of home, of the school, of the plow, — And this City of Homes is their monument now. O God of our fathers! By river and wood Where Pynchon and Holyoke and Chapin abode, Our heritage blossoms with glory and praise, To Thee, our Defender, O Ancient of Days! —J)yey, 18:19-1890 APR 8 I9US) I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 110 870 ^ 1