LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ©I^t ©np^rigl^ !fn. Shelf ...XT..5 9 rJ^tf UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. APR ^ 3 1884 "STANDARD" Work on Cutting. Revised, JUnlarged and Irrup-po^red. THIRD EDITION. ^-^ if- " / ") A COMPLETE TKEATISE ON THE ART ANO SCIENCE OF GARMENT CUTTING. APR 3 1884/^ PUBLISHED BY ^SB JlSrO. J. JVLITCHELL CO., NEW YORK. 1884. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by T^^ JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. In the office of tlie Librarian of Congress, at Wasliington. ^^^,/^/l 1 I N DEX. PART 1. Page. Preface - - - - 5 Measurement of the Form 6 Measurement Systems (Coats and Vests) 10 " " (Capes and Cloaks) ...- 36 " " (Pantaloons) - 41 PART 2. "Standard" Scale .... _._ 47 Key to "Standard" Scale and Table of Proportion 49 Proportionate Systems (By ' ' Standard ' ' Scale) 50 PART 3. Misfits - 67 Inclination or Attitude 68 PART 4. Use of Block Patterns , 73 PART 5. Making up 84 PART 6. Creases in General 90 Third Edition.] « STANDARD " WORK ON CUTTING. PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION. THE " Standard " System, has been so long before the Trade and so fully recog- nized, tliat we feel there is no need to enter into any defence of its principles, but simply to thank our manifold patrons for the support that has made it popular. This, the 3d Edition, is much enlarged and simplified, and the revision is so thorough, as to make it to all intents and purposes a new Work. It is put forward not as an Anatomical nor Geometrical Treatise, but as a prac- tical method ; the student of its pages is directed to be careful in his measurements and strict in the apjilication of the instructions laid down. Discarding disputation we enjoin attention to detail and a careful study of the peculiarities of the living foi-m. While abiding by the principle embodied in the 1st and 2d Editions, we have modified the method of its application to the recpiirements of the present time, and in so doing, have arranged for an easy and graceful garment ; one moreover, that will keep in good form and not wear into unsightly creases. This is the test of first-class cutting as well as of first-class manufacture ; and no garment will answer to it, except it be so balanced, that it will fall naturally to the lines of the figure, giving, at the right place, sufficient room for unimpeded motion of the muscles. We have thought it advisable to treat " Misfits " systematically, as will be seen on consulting that article ; we would call especial attention to the Diagrams and Ex- planations Illustrative of the "Attitude or Inclination" of the Figure ; this is a con- sideration quite distinct from lengthe and size, andis too frequently overlooked ; it is within the memory of the present generation that this question was opened up ; and it is now customary only by the advanced Cutter, to follow moi-e or less the lines of the form in its extreme variations ; but, owing to crude theoiies of balance, generally accepted by the craft, he stops with the shoulders; the attitude of the body below the waist is supposed to be provided for, by more or less cloth on the back plait ; the consequence is that it is either lap or gape; the " stooping figure " overlaps the back skirts, and is troubled at the hip buttons; the reverse order of failure takes place with the " over erect," and tlie back skirts gape ; both errors attributable to the differ- ence of inclination in the back skirt and the part it covers. "The use of Block Patterns" is fully illustrated, giving all the necessary varia- tions for difference of position and measurement. The articles on " Making up " and " Creases in general " are thoroughly practical and cover a large area of trouble incident to the Cutting profession. This Work is mainly intended for the Student and therefore covers very elementary ground, nevertheless, we feel assured that the most experienced Cuttei will be repaid by its careful study. Respectfully, iBfi JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. MEASUREMENT OF THE FORM, INCORRECT Measurement, arises mainly from haste or carelessness, and is a fruit- ful source of trouble to the Cutter ; the best draft must be a failure if founded on measures not truly taken. The measures on which the " Standard " System is based are few and simple l)ut they require to be taken with care. Measuring Jackets are growing into favor with the Trade; they should be made up firmly, padded and wadded as usually worn, with both sleeves put in. One sleeve causes mistakes by allowing the Jacket so easily to get out of place, and, as most customers have a difference in the lengths of their arms, two sleeves make the detection easy to the Cutter, without annoyance to the Customer. A set of Jackets 34, 36, 38, 40 and 42, cut straight in front and large enough to pin together easily is all that is required. A Set, cai efully cut by oui' new Scale, having the lines by which the draft is produced sewed through by machine in col- ored silk so as to be plainly marked, cannot fail to give the Cutter many a valuable suggestion that can be noted in the measure book. Illustrative Figs. 1 and 2, represent one method of taking the measures, the draft being based upon the location of the two points : one at the front of the scye, taken on a level under the arm, and the other taken from a point on the back seam, also on a level under the arm; it will be seen at once, that these two points should be carefully located to start with ; this is a very simple method, requiring only a small square and a piece of rough cardboard or leather, with inches marked on either side. Close the Coat, place the straight edge of the cardboard as close under the arm as is convenient, taking especial care that it is close. Mark on the top edge, front and back of scye, hold in same position and place square as seen on Fig. 2 ; locate points front and back as denoted by the square ; the numbers on the cardboard are only useful, as marking more accurately the location of the arm of the square. Remove the straight edge, and measure from socket bone at O, to C on back seam — 8f, to natural waist^^rKU, to fashionable waist — 18^, full length — 30; the point located at back scye will give the width of back — 7i, to elbow — 20, full length of sleeve — 31 ; from point located at front of scye under the arm to C — 11^, from same point at front of scye up in front of shoulder to socket bone, (1st over measure) — 12^ ; from same point at front of scye across front shoulder down to C, (2d over measure) — 18 ; Breast measure on the Vest, on the blade neither above nor below — 36, waist — 32, on the hips below the waist — 35; measures : 8| 7i lU 36 16^ 20 12i y 32 18i 31 18 j 35 80 Third Editio7i.] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. c^. y O^^. 8 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. MEASUEEMENT, Coidinued. Another Method, and perhaps the most popular with the Trade, is represented on Figs. 3 and 4. After having closed the Coat, the ordinaiy square with sliding arm is placed against the back, one arm being placed close to the left side of the form and as close as possible up under the arm without disturbing the shoulder; close in the sliding arm to the right side of the figure. Mark across at front of scye and on back seam and be- fore removing square, lay a short square on the sliding arm resting against front of scye, but not too close, as the scye must give room for motion of the arms and the play of muscles ; do the same at back scye for width of back, remove square, and measure from points as now located. The advantage of the lines on the Measuring Jacket will be apparent at once the mark made for depth of scye on back, can be compared with the normal line of the method and so at the front of scye, and the Judgment of the Cutter is called upon, to consider and alter if necessary the measures taken; thus a false step at the starting point can be at once adjusted, saving the expense of bushelling and the consequent annoyance to Employer, Customer and Cutter. The measure from the front of scye to the natural waist has been omitted in this Edition, the draft being balanced by the square of the breast measure which is a a far better guide than a measure which passes over a curveliuear surface, at one part rounded, and at another hollow. It has been usual to instruct the Student to take this measure tight, but it is not a reliable measure as is proved by taking it always ex- act, and then finding in practice that no regular reduction will insure correctness; there are many methods of waist suppression superior to it, and we have found the one given satisfactory. The Student must not suppose that his measures are incorrect, simply because they sometimes happen to be much longer or shoi'ter than he may have hitherto met with ; on a 36 Breast the front scye measure to the center of back at scye level, will vary from 11^ to 12f inches; the measure from front of scye over shoulder to socketbone, will vary on a 36 Breast, from 1\\ to 12^, and in very ex- treme cases even to 13 inches. Third Edition.'] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. oi^^.j^ . C^(2?. "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. DIAGRAM 1. S. B. SACK. j Front of Scye, \\.\ f g 7 16 MEASURES. Jgi a^ '" ^"'^* ^^^^' measure, 12i ^ 3^ 20 31 First over measure, 12|^ -l <§^ 80 J I Second over measure, 18 ^ Breast, 36 ; Waist, 32 ; Hip, 35. DRAFT PEODUCED BY THE MEASURES. ARRANGE measures by which to draft as follows : Add J to depth of scye, 8 f— 9 ^ inches; Add 1 to front of scye, l\l — 12^ inches ; Add I to front of scye to square the shoulder by, 11^ — 12|^ inches; Add i to first over measure, 12^ — 12| inches ; Deduct 1^ from second over measure, 18 — -171 inches. Draw line for back seam and square across as at O ; Fi'om O to C is 9^ inches — From O to natural waist is 16| inches — From O to fashionable waist is 18^ inches — From O to full length is 30 inches — Rise of neck, f of an inch ; Width of top of back is 2f inches ; B is half way between O and C ; A is 1|- inch above B ; A to W is 7\ inches — square down to breast line— top of side seam is at | from line C ; Form side seams taking ont at natural waist \\ inch — spring is -^ at 30 inches from O, for all lengths and sizes ; From C to F is 12^ inches ; Square up as illustrated ; From C mark off \ breast, 18, and add 2 J inches ; Square down— add 1 inch for button step; From C sweep up for front of breast ; At B, lay 12^ inches on square, the angle falling on breast line at E — and square up by the other arm ; From F, sweep across this line by first over measure, deducting width of top of back for shoulder j^oint ; Hollow back as illustrated and cut it out ; Lay back in position at shoulder point, and form shoulder seam by second over measure 17f, dropping at scye point ^ inch ; Form scye — shape gorge, raising neck at front 1 inch, taking out small V ; Sweep front length from shoulder point, by length of side seam ; Notch at back scye is from W ; Finish draft as illustrated. {Continued on page \2.) Third Edition.'] STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 11 C9J 16* 18i 12 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. \Tliird Edition. S. B. SACK, Continued. Remarks. — The depth of scye measure on back seam, taken by a level under the arm is nearly always taken short ; if taken strictly correct it cannot be applied litei'ally, as taken, without giving too short a length of back stretch ; it is necessary to add \ inch in the application of this measure, and by adding \ more for seam we get the I which we advise in the use of this measure ; those who neglect this pre- caution get their coats too short in the back. In shaping the gorge take care that it is not too hollow ; it is a misconception to suppose that it is necessary to make what is called a true curve from O, through the shoulder point to the button step; the height of front neck and depth of stand of collar, govern the line of the neck curve and any other idea is a fallacy accepted without sufficient thought ; style controls both points — if the collar is narrow, the back at top of back seam must be higher; if the roll is short, the front neck must be higher also ; high or low at back, or front the side of the neck is a point not much affected thereby, and the consequence is, that the sweep of the neck curve has to meet either contingency. DIAGRAM 2. LONG SOFT ROLL SACK. DRAFTED same as Diagram 1 on page 11, except that it is cut more or less full on the lappel edge, according to the prevailing style ; the dotted lines represent the neck and gorge as usually cut ; the solid lines the necessary deviations to secure a close fitting Coat at the side of the neck, and yet preserve the desired effect of the long narrow roll. The collar does not require to be cut more crooked than in the diagram. Third Edition.] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 13 14 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. DIAGRAM 3. S. B. OVER-SACK. 8| ai ^ Front of Scye, 11^ MEASURES ;^i I iiir'-"""""' ;«* 38 h^ J Breast, 38 (over the coat), Seat, 39 DKAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. ARRANGE measures by wHch to draft, as follows : Add 1 to depth of scye, 8f-9f inches. Add 1^ to front of scye, 11^-13 inches. Add 1| to front of scye to square shoulder by, lH-13 inches. Add 1 to first over-measure, 12^-13| inches. Add I to second over-measure, 18-18^ inches. Draw line for back seam ; square across as at O. From O to D is 2 J inches. Form top of back, raising at O | and at D 1 inch. From O to C is 9f; natural waist I7i; fashionable waist 19; full length 38 inches. B is half way between O and C. A is l\ inch above B; A to W is 7f inches ; square down to breast line. Top of side seams is -^ above breast line (19 on 12ths). Form side seams taking out at natural waist 1 1 inch. Spring is \ at line 3fi inches down. From C to F is 13 inches ; square up 3 inches. Measure across breast 19, adding f for reductions at back seam and blade. Add 2^ for making up and square down. Make step 2 inches more or less and square down. Sweep up for front from C. On line 36 reduce at front 1\ inch. Form front as illustrated. At B lay arm of square at 13 inches, letting the angle of square fall on the breast line at E, and square up by the other arm. From F sweep across this line l>y first over-measure 13^. Take oif width of top of back 2^ inches. Hollow back seam, springing it out at bottom on line 36, one inch. Cut out back and place same in position at shoulder point. Close the shoulder by 2d over-measure. Reduce at point of scye scant 4 inch, and form arm scye as illustrated. Back pitch is \ way between A and C. Form gorge of neck, raising at front 1 inch. Take out V as illustrated. Make the neck curve to follow diagram. Avoid a curve like the dotted line. Sweep for bottom from shoulder point by length of side seam. Take out fish under arm and finish draft as illustrated. "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. DIAGRAM 4. S. B. ONE BUTTON CUTAWAY. -- Front of scye IH ^ I First over measure 12 J { -^* ,S I First over measure 12 J { ^ ^^^ ,., i Slope of shoulder 20-25i = i -birst over Measure 12^ 1^ '^ DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. ADD f to scye depth, 8J — 9i inches : Add 1 inch to front of scye, 11^ — 12A inches; Add I to front of scye to square shoulder by, IH — 12^ inches. Add i to first over measure, 12^ — 12f inches. Draw line for back seam ; Square across as at O ; From O to C is 9A inches : B is half way between O and C ; to D is i and a good seam ; At D square up % for rise of neck ; AVidth of top of back to fancy ; From B to W is \ and -jV ; Square up from W. From C to F is 12i inches ; Measure across i of Breast IS inches add lA, if wadded add 2 inches : Square down for lapel seam ; Sweep up by C for size of neck ; Square up from F for front of scye ; At B lay one arm of square at 12^ inches, letting tlie angle of square rest on breast line at E : Square up by the other arm ; From F sweep across this line by the first over measure, 12J inches ; Deduct width of top of back, which finds the shoulder point ; From the shoulder point, draw line to B for shoulder seam of fore part, and where it cuts the line squared up from W, will give the shoulder seam of bact ; Form both shoulder seams ; Form scye as illustrated clearing it at F, i inch : Measure for top button allowing J for seams : Measure for length of Vest 26, and square across to back seam ; Add 1 inch for seams and making up: Form bottom as illustrated : Divide draft in halves ; Square line down ; Take out 1 inch on each side of line at natural waist; Reduce f at natural waist on back seam ; Fit collar as illustrated ; Draft lapel according to prevailing style ; The button line will be the same distance fi'om the lapel seam as the corres- ponding button hole. ITiird Edition.] 'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 3S 36 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Editmi. DIAGRAM 18. CAPE OR CLOAK. r Front length 38 ^ g MEASURES. ^ Over shoulder 42 y 1 V , \ Back length 40 J «" *^^ ^«'''*- DRAFT BY DIVISIONS OF THE BREAST MEASURE TAKEN ON THE VEST. "pwRAW front line A O ; Square down for back seam ; From A to B is -jV less than \ : From B to C same distance as A to B ; From C to D is 5 distance of B to C ; Fi'om D to F same as from A to D ; From C to E same as from A to B ; Measui-e from F to E, and make F to G f inch longer and sew on the fullness stretching E F to it when pressing the seam ; From A to I same as from A to C ; Draw slash the shape of ordinary shoulder seam ; Fi'ont from D, measure of front length— 38 ; From E over shoulder — 42 ; From I — 40 inches ; Sweep bottom through lengths given ; Add button step or lapel as required and finish draft as illustrated ; This is a closer Cape or Cloak than that of Diagram 19, and is known as the ^ circle ; Back seam on crease edge of goods. Third Edition.} "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING, Bnrl- Secun on the crease eSm- uf Cluth "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. DIAGRAM 19. CAPE OR CLOAK. r Front lengtli 38 Breast 38 MEASURES. - Over shoulder 42 . .i [ Back length 40 /o^^r the coat. CUT BY THE OVER SACK DRAFT. TTjLACE the Draft of over Sack which fits the figure in position as illustrated ; Open the shoulder at neck, 1^ inch ; Close shoulder at scye point ; This position gives a J circle ; If less fullness is required, open the shoulder slash still more ; If required double breasted add 1 inch more at front all through for lapel, and place the buttons correspondingly farther back. I'hird Edition.'] 'STANDARD" WOllK ON CUTTING. 39 Third Edition.^ "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 41 PANTALOONS. IT would appear a very simple matter to drape the leg and form a wrap around the seat and waist ; but simple as the problem appears a good fitting pair of Pantaloons Is rare to see. " Infallible'' Systems nevertheless reckon by the thousand and their apparent diversity is iiu-i-eased to the eye by front, centre and side seam l)al. ance lines ; yet they are mainly founded on the same primitive idea, varied only in the slant of the seat line ; when the variation grows outrageous, the backpart is frequently thrown out correspondingly at the bottom of the side seam with the sweep of a scimitar, and a shape is arrived at that fits nothing liumau, eomiielling the fronts to become an exhibition of creases. Had we any practical method of measuring the angle from the instep to the fork allowing for the bend of knee and the lobe of the seat, we should only have to bring the waist to measure, and all our difiiculties would be solved; but as it is^ this is a matter of experience and judgment ; and theoretical agreement seems about as impossible as practical divergence. We have given two drafts ; the first is somewhat novel and is an attempt to govern each portion of the garment by its measure on the form ; — Bottom, Seat, and Waist. It is more self varying than usual and produces for all shapes a graceful and easy fit. The second is one of the best practical methods which we know of, founded on generally received ideas, corrected by the light of our experience. Theoretical dis- putants have grown grey, and have left the question of " open and close cut " still unsolved ; yet the mystery lies within a very narrow compass. " How much shall the angle be opened ^" As the angle of the leg seam is opened the side seam is shortened ; as the angle of the leg seam is closed the side seam is lengthened ; when the side seam is short, horizontal creases will appear on the tap side from fork to knee, too much clotli is apparent up and down the leg, but a smooth back part is given, easy for riding or to sit down in ; but otherwise fnll of fatal objections ; when the side seam is long there will be tightness at knee when the leg is in motion, sitting down or going up stairs the constraint becomes annoying ; a too crooked seat line will cause the goods to bag at the seat and the fork will look too full ; too straight a seat line will also cause Avant of ease in sitting or stooping and the pantaloons will bulge at the knee. We have endeavored to steer mid-channel between the rocks. Other faults than those spoken of are mainly owing to want of unison in the lines of front and back parts, or to bad making up. "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. DIAGRAMS 20-21. PANTALOONS. ( Outside seam, 4H ; i Seat, 36 ; MEASURES^ Inseam, 32; ' \ Knee, 17 ; ( Waist, 31 ; ( Bottom, 17. DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. DIAGRAM 20. FRONT PART. DRAW line A; mark oft" inseam 32, outside 4H; and square out at bottom about 4 inches ; Mark off on this line \ of entire bottom, (17 on 6ths ;) From this point sweep by length of inseam at B across for crotch, and by out- side seam at C for waist ; From B on crotch sweep, mark oft' h of waist on thirds ; also, ^ seat on halves, less ^ inch ; Mark this point by * ; From * mark off also J^ — and \ of seat at D (18 on 12ths and 18 on 8ths) ; The crotch point is at the |- ; At jV lay angle of square, one arm touching at B, and square down by the other arm at E ; From D to E 32 ; Knee is 14 inches down from D ; Square across by line E ; Form inseam from D, reducing at knee \ inch, as illustrated ; From the \ at bottom through \ on crotch sweep, draw line to sweep of waist at O; From O to top of fly i of waist (15i >n 6ths) ; Draw line to * and shape fork, as illustrated ; undress side as per dotted lines; Make waist \ inch less than i of ^ waist, (15^) from top of fly ; Form top of side seam, giving the hip a gentle curve ; From E, the bottom is 7^ inches ; Form side seam, dropping h inch ; Shrinking line is at i of bottom ; Hollow instep and cut out front part. DIAGRAM 21. BACK PART. Place front part in position and extend sweeps at D B C ; Mark out from D -^ of seat (18 on 12ths), which gives crotch point of back part ; Rise \ of seat at O for top of waist ; From O \ waist and 1 inch — 8f inches gives top of side seam on back part ; From this point make waist to measure allowing for seams and slash ; From seat line at waist, draw line to undress side at crotch and shape crotch as illustrated; From E, I of bottom, 8A inches, for bottom of side seam ; Make bottom at leg seam to measure 17, allowing f for seams, 17f inches ; Form inseam, giving 1 inch at knee ; Allow for seams and make knee at side seam to measure ; From * on crotch sweep, measure front part to side seam. Lay this measure where crotch curve meets seat line and measure to B i of seat 18 — add li or 2 inches for making up as desired, and finish draft as illustrated. Measure from fork and make notch of back at knee same length as that of front pai't ; from knee, measure to bottom, allowing \ inch on back part. STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. DIAGRAMS 22-23. PANTALOONS. SECOND DRAFT. j Waist 32 -I Knee 16 ( Bottom 16 Outside seam 40 MEASURES.^ Inseam 30* Seat 36 DRAFT PRODUCED BY THE MEASURES. DIAGRAM 22. FRONT PART. nnv RAW line A— square out at C ; -L^ Mark off inseam 30i at D — outside seam 40 at E — squai'e each across ; On line D mark off \ seat (18 on fourths) also ^ flS on halves) ; Square up and down for line B ; Make bottom width desired, say 7 inches ; * is the centre of bottom — from \ of seat to * at bottom draw centre line — sweep from * by inseam length on line B at crotch ; and on sweep make crotch point \ of seat (18 on Sths) ; Shape fork as illustrated ; Undress side as per dotted lines ; Knee is at 13:^ from crotch; square across by line B — f inch from centre line toward inseam make * and form knee equal on each side of * ; Form inseam as illustrated ; Shrinking line is at 2f from side seam ; Cut out fore part. ' DIAGRAM 23. BACKPART. Place front part in position — extend lines at bottom and knee — also at sweep of crotch — crotch of back part is at ^V f>f seat (18 on 12ths) ; Knee of back part is J of an inch out at leg seam ; make knee to measure allowing for seams ; bottom at equal distance from * allowing for seams ; Form inseam ; On line D on front part square up from side seam on 12ths as illustrated ; From where this line cuts waist line, measure back \ of seat (18 on 4tLis) for top of side seam of back part ; Make waist to measure allowing for seams and slashes — draw seat line to h of crotch on front part — shape crotch and seat seam as illustrated ; Measure across for size of seat allowing II or 2 inches as desii-ed for making up ; Form side seam — measure for notch of hind part, equal to notch on front at knee — from notches at knee measure to bottom allowing \ more on back part and finish draft as illustrated. PAET II. Third Edition.] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 47 THE NEW "STANDARD" SCALE. nnHIS Scale is graduated on the laws of growth as found in the normal Aiueri- can figure, and will produce a set of Patterns for the various Breast sizes agreeing with the Upper shoulder and Blade measures, (with due allowances for making up) as found opposite to the Breast size on the Table of Proportion accom- panying the Scale. This method gives the Cutter this advantage, in abnormal figures, that by taking the size of the shoulder on the Customer he can look up that measure in the table and select the pattern that will give the necessary size of shoulder, and by simply coi'recting the bi'east size, will get a good fitting pattern and save time. It has another advantage, also, that of simplicity. The letter on the Scale answers to the letter on the Diagram ; A on the scale is A on the Diagram. C on the scale if C on the Diagram, and so throughout : thus avoiding the confusion incident to such instructions as those given generally: — "place S on the scale at 4 and mark W, or place B at D and mark O at H. Add A." Widths on the figure are widths on the Scale; depths on the figure are depths on the Scale, and the Scale is so arranged that the two cannot be confounded. The widths are ou the top edge and correspond to the same letters on the widths of the illustrative diagrams. The depths are on the bottom edge of the Scale, and con'e- spond to the same letters as the depths on the Diagi'am. Graduated Scales ai'e gener- ally incorrect, the principle being but badly understood ; as introduced by the elder Compaing, it was a mathematical division only and produced a 24 or a 48, accord- ing to mathematical progression. But this is not what the human figure requires ; and, moreovei', those divisions were based on measurements as found in Greek sculp- ture, ou ideal figures; not on the measurements of the living figure of the time. Hav- ing an Apollo to fit of 38 chest it was perfect; as it was also, were the figure increased to 83, all would be in mathematical proportion, and if this colossal figure so fitted, were placed at an elevation that the distance would diminish it to 38, the symmetry would command admiration ; but the living human figure does not grow in height as it expands in breast measure. The law of growth is also different in Boyhood from that of Manhood, and after reaching 40 chest the change is still more empha- tically marked ; a Scale, therefoi-e, to be of practical use to the Cutter, must meet these conditions of change exactly in the ratio in which they occur. 48 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. yrhird Edition. Were the human figure a mathematical one, no problem would be easier of solution ; but its beauty, like the difficulty of covering it, is of another order — it is neither spherical nor conical ; it is simply and inherently irregular ; it is an ideal humanity that answers to mathematical proportion, and cei'tainly has not been seen on the earth since the palmy days of Greece in the time of Pericles. What we know of that time teaches us to look upon the masterpieces of art that have come do^v'n to us as made up of ideal combination, and not as realistic copies. Greek statuary, though a study for the artist everywhere, gives no table of pro- portion on which we can build a basis for present Works in Cutting. Our tables must he gathered from the measure book — the real not the ideal. Moreovei-, in clothing a breathing and moving figure, we have to do and avoid doing many things easy of accomplishment were we making close fitting shrouds for the dead. Under the very best of circumstances we measure a sur- face in one direction, and have to apply the measure in another ; and the " Science and Art" involved here is that of allowance found only by experience and mam?y inca/pable alihe of logical and mathematMcal explanation. Approximation is all that we can affirm — absolute Scientific accuracy is out of the question, and happi- ly, is not required to insure success. Third BcUtion.] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 49 KEY to "STANDARD" SCALE. A Depth of shoulder seam on back. B 5 of Scye depth. C Scye Depth. D Width of top of back. E Point to square shoulders from. F Front of Scye. S Size of breast ] f "n dS" '™'" f W Width of back. ^ Depth of Shoulder on forepart. The Scale will produce a Draft corresponding with the Shoulder and Blade measures placed opposite to the Breast size, with the necessary allow- ances. Breast, Shoulder and Blade measures are taken over the Vest. Shoulder and Blade measures as usually found to the corresponding Breast measure. TABLE OF PROPORTION. BREAST SHODLDER BLADE BREAST SHOULDER BLADE BREAST SHOULDER BLADE 25 18i 15i 33 24i 20^ 41 29i 25f 26 19 16 34 25 21i 42 m 26 27 19f 16i 35 25^ 21i 43 30i 26i 28 20A 17 36 26i 22^ 44 30f 26i 29 2U 17i 37 27 23i 45 31 t 26| 30 22 18i 38 27i 24 46 31i 27 31 22f m 39 28^ 24i 47 3U 27i 32 23^ 20 40 29i 25i 48 31f 27i "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Fdition. DIAGRAM 24. S. B. SACK. 16i ^ ~^ Breast 36 f g 1\ MEASURES. ]8i ■& V Waist 32 ^ | 20 30 S J Seat 37 ^^ 31 BY SCALE OF BREAST MEASURE. Q ELECT Scale of Breast measure 36. '^^ Draw line for back seam ; Square across as at O ; From O to D is end of scale to D ; Sqnare up | of an inch for rise of neck; Form top of back ; From O to A is end of scale to A ; from O to B is end of scale to B ; from O to C is end of scale to C; from O to natural waist is 16 A, to fashionable waist 18i, full length 30 inches ; Square out from each point except B ; From A to W is end of scale to W ; fi'om C to E is end of scale to E ; from C to F is end of scale to F ; from F to S is end of scale fi'om F to S ; Square down at S as illustrated ; add 1 inch for button step ; sweep upward by C for front ; Square up from E as illustrated; Square up from F about 3 inches for front of scye ; * on line E is end of scale to * ; Place angle of square at E, one arm touching at B, and where the othei arm strikes the top line of the draft is the shoulder point ; Form shoulder seam, dropping at scye point \ inch ; form scye as illustrated ; backpitch is on 12ths from W; form side seams taking out 1^ inch at natural waist; Top of side seams is \ from line C ; Spring is on I2ths, always at 30 inches down from O, whatever is the length of Sack ; Hollow back as illustrated ; Form gorge of neck raising it at front f inch ; Sweep from shoulder point by length of side seam for length of front and finish Draft as illustrated; Third Edition i\ 'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 51 ■STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. DIAGRAM 25. D. B. SACK. 16^^ ~1 Breast 36 f aj 7i MEASURES. U\tay Waist 32 ^ S 20 30 S J Seat 36 ^^ 31 BY SCALE OF BREAST MEASURE. Q ELECT Scale of breast measure 36 ; ^^ Draw line for back seam ; Square across as at O ; From O to D is end of scale to D; Square up -Jr of an inch for rise of neck ; form top of back ; From O to A is end of scale to A ; from O to B is end of scale to B ; from O to C is end of scale to C ; from O to natural waist is 16^, to fashionable waist 18i ; to full length 30 inches; Square out fi'om each point except B ; From A to W is end of scale to W ; from C to E is end of scale to E ; from C to F is end of scale to F ; from F to S is end of scale from F to S ; Square down at S as illustrated ; add 2^ or three inches as desired for lapel ac- cording to the prevailing style; Sweep upward by C for front ; Square up from E as illustrated ; Square up from F about 3 inches for front of scye ; * ou line E is end of scale to * ; Place angle of square at E, one arm touching at B, and where the other arm strikes the top line of the draft, is the shoulder point ; Form the shoulder seam, dropping at scye point \ inch ; form scye as illustrated ; back pitch is ou 12ths from W ; form side seams taking out U inch at uatural waist Top of side seams is I from line C. Spring is on 12ths; hollow back as illustrated ; Form gorge of neck, raising it at front | inch ; Sweep from shoulder point by length of side seam for length of front; Place buttons same distance from line squared down at S, as the edge of the corresponding buttonhole is. Finish Draft as illustrated. Third Edition. "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. DIAGRAM 26. S. B. OVER SACK. 17^ -c r Breast 38 "l ^ 7i MEASURES. 19 g^^ Waist 34 ^ s: 20 38 ^3 I Seat 39 J ^ 32 BREAST MEASURE TAKEN OVER THE COAT. DRAFT by Scale of breast measure 38 ; Draw line for back seam ; Square across as at O ; From O to D is end of scale to D ; Square up 1 incli for rise of neck ; Form top of back at O, raising a good seam ; From O to A is end of scale to A — from O to B is end of scale to B — from O to C is end of scale to C — from O to natural waist is 17^, to fashionable waist 19 full length 38 inches ; Square out from each point except B ; From A to W is end of scale to W ; Square down from W as illustrated ; From C to E is end of scale to E — from C to F is end of scale to F — from F to S is end of scale from F to S ; Square down at S as illustrated, add 2 inches more or less for button step ; square down^ — sweep for front by C — hollow back as illustrated, springing back seam out 1 inch at 36 inches down from O ; this prevents the drag so frequently seen at the back tack ; Square up from E — square up from F, 3 inches for front of scye ; * on line E is end of scale to * ; Place angle of square at E one arm touching at B, and where the other arm strikes top line of draft will be the shoulder point ; Form shoulder seam dropping at point of scye \ inch — form scye as illustrated — top of side seams is on 12ths from line C ; Form side seams, taking out 1^ inch at natural waist, and making spring | on line 36 down from O ; Form gorge of neck taking out V as illustrated — and raise front of neck above line A, \ inch. Sweep from shoulder point by length of side seam, and finish draft as illustrated, reducing at front 1| inch on line 36. Remarks. This draft is the same in principle as that of the Undersack; but being an Over Garment is necessarily cut more free and roomy at seat and has the spi'ing arranged on line 36 on 6ths ; it will be seen that a good seam is added above O, and that the gorge is well filled in, so as to make a pretty straight collar seam; the neck cut in this way, will aid in the formation of a free roll, and will allow the top edge of collar to lay close at the side of neck ; the '' Jour " should be instructed that when his forepart is basted to the canvas, to press the front edge in short, so as to bring it nearly straight, before not after putting on the edge stay, pressing the fullness back into the centre of the fore-part ; the front will roll anywhere desired with an ordinary straight collar ; the back pitch being placed at J down from W, will necessitate an alteration in the sleeve draft, as shown on Diagram 13 page 29. liitcli "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. DIAGRAM 27. D. B. OVER SACK. 17* J ) Breast 38 { ^ VI 19 i" r Waist 84 i ^ 20 38 J ( Seat 39 U 82 BREAST MEASURE TAKEN OVER THE COAT. 'piRAFT by Scale of breast measure 88. Dra^v line for back seam; Square across as at O ; From O to D is end of scale to D ; Square up 1 inch for rise of neck ; Raise a good seam above O and form top of back ; From O to A is end of scale to A — from O to B is end of scale to B — from O to C is end of scale to C — from O to natural waist is 17^, to fashionable waist 19 full length 38 inches ; Square out from all points except B ; From A to W is end of scale to W ; Square down from W as illustrated ; From C to E is end of scale to E — from C to F is end of scale to F — from F to S is end of scale to S ; Square down at S as illustrated. Add 3 inches more or less for lapel ; Square down. Sweep up for front by C ; Hollow back as illustrated, springing back seam out 1 inch at line 86 down from O ; Square up from E— square up from F 8 inches for front of scye ; * on line E is end of scale to * ; Place angle of square at E, one arm touching at B, and where the other arm strikes the top line of draft will be the shoulder point ; Form shoulder seam dropping at point of scye h inch ; Form scye as illustrateed ; Top of side seams is on 12ths from line C ; Foi'm side seams taking out 1^ inch at natui'al waist; Back pitch is \ from W. Make spring \ on line 3H inches down from O ; Foi-m gorge of neck, taking out V as illustrated ; Raise front of neck above line A \ inch ; Sweep from shoulder point by length of side seam and finish draft, reducing at front on line 36, 1 \ inch ; Place buttons back from line squared down at S same distance as the corres- ponding button hole. UncFi "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. DIAGRAM 28. S. B. 1 BUTTON CUTAWAY, 16* CO \ Breast 36 ( P 7: MEASURES. 18 ^f Waist 32 i ^ 20 33 &^ Hips 35 Is 31 BY SCALE OF BREAST MEASURE. Q< ELECT Scale of breast measure 36. ^^ Draw line for back seam; Square acioss as at O ; From O to D is end of scale to D; Square up | of au inch for rise of neck; form top of back; From O to A is end of scale to A ; from O to B is end of scale to B ; from O to C is end of scale to C ; from O to natural waist is 16^, to fashionable waist 18, full length 33 inches. Square out from each point except B. From A to W is end of scale to W ; from C to E is end of scale to E ; from C to F is end of scale to F; from F to S is end of scale from F to S ; Square down from W, as illustrated ; Form shoulder seam of back ; From W to top of side seam is 2\ inches (18 on 8ths); Form side seams taking out at blade ^ inch and at natural waist If inch ; Width of back at natural waist is 2^ inches ; Square down at S ; add 1 inch for button step ; sweep upward by C for front ; Square up from E as illustrated ; square up from F about 3 inches for front of scye ; * on line E is end of scale to *; Place angle of square at E, one arm touching at B and where the other arm strikes the top line of draft, is the shoulder point. Form shoulder seam, dropping at scye point ^ inch ; form scye as illustrated ; Back pitch is on 12ths from W ; form neck gorge, raising neck at front f of an inch ; hollow back as illustrated ; Form under arm seams, taking out \ inch at natural waist ; Sweep for length of front waist, from 1 inch behind the shoulder point by bot- tom of side seam ; Draw waist seam, and finish draft as illustrated. Third Edition.] 'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 59 16i 'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. DIAGRAM 29. S. B. 4 BUTTON CUTAWAY. 16^ ^ ) o, ( Breast 36 MEASURE 18i f V ..^^t, \ Waist 32 33 J ) ^^.^^,^1- (Hip 35 BY SCALE OF BREAST MEASURE. SELECT Scale of breast measure 36. Draw line for back seam ; Square across as at O : From O to D is eud of Scale to D. Square up f of an inch for rise of neck; Form top of back. From O to A is end of scale to A — -from O to B is end of scale to B — fi-om O to C is eud of scale to C — ^from O to natural waist is 16^ — from O to fashionable waist is 18A — from O to full length is 33 inches. Square out from each point except B. From A to W is end of scale to W — from C to E is eud of scale to E — fi'om C to F is end of scale to F — from F to S is end of scale from F to S. Square down from W as illustrated ; Form shoulder seam of back ; From AV to top of side seam is '2\ inches (18 on 8ths) Form side seams taking out at blade \ inch and at natural waist If inches ; width of back at natural waist is ^\ inches : Square down atS — add 1 inch for button step — -sweep upward from Cfor front. Square up fi'om E as illustrated — square up from F about 3 inches for guide to front of scye ; * on line E is end of scale at E to * Place angle of square at E, one arm touching at B, and where the other arm strikes the top line of the di-aft is the shoulder point. Form shoulder seam, dropping at scye point \ of an inch — form scye as illus- trated ; back pitch is on 12ths from W. Form neck gorge raising neck at front | of an inch — hollow back as illustrated ; Form under arm seams taking out ^ of an inch at natural waist ; Sweep for front of waist from 1 inch behind the shoulder point by bottom of side body — draw waist seam. Cut out back and side body, place in closing position and measure across for size of breast 18 inches, add 2 inches for making up and 1 inch for step — 21 inches ; this to see that the draft measures correctly — place in closing position at waist and measure along waist seam ^ of the hip 17^, allowing for seams — make a mark and add 1 inch over — draw front line through this added inch — space off buttons and at the bottom button sweep line of front skirt as illustrated. DRAFT OF SKIRT. Place in position as diagi'ara — place angle of square at the hip of side-body and square over and down — at 6 inches across waist raise 1 inch and I'ound the plait ^ an inch — finish skirt as illustrated. Third Edition.'] 'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING 61 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. DIAGRAM 30. D. B. FROCK. 16* M ( Breast 36 ) - n MEASURES. 18* 1^\ Waist 32 u 20 37 S^\ Hips 35 [^ 31 BY SCALE OF MEASURE. SELECT Scale of breast measure 36 ; Draw line for back seam ; Square across as at O ; From O to D is end of scale to D ; Square ujj f of an inch for rise of neck ; Form top of back ; From O to A is end of scale to A ; From O to B is end of scale to B ; Fi-om O to C is end of scale to C ; From O to natural waist 16i inches, to fashionable waist 18*; Square out from each point except B ; From A to W is end of scale to W ; Square down as illustrated ; Form shoulder seam of back ; From W to top of side seams is on Sths (2^ in ches) ; Width of back at natural waist is 2\ inches ; Form side seams as illustrated taking out * inch at blade and If inch at natural waist; From C to E is end of scale to E — from C to F is end of scale to F— From F to S is end of scale from F to S ; Square down from S— sweep up by C for front of breast ; Hollow back as illustrated ; Square up from E — -square up from F about 3 inches for front of scye ; * on line is end of scale to * Place angle of square at E one arm touching at B and where the other arm strikes the top line of di-aft is the shoulder point ; Form shoulder seam I'educing at scye point * inch , Form scye as illustrated — back pitch is on 12ths from W ; Form neck gorge raising neck at front | of an inch ; Form under arm seams taking out at natural waist * inch ; Sweep from 1 inch behind shoulder point by length of side seam for front length, and shape waist seam as illustrated ; Cut out back and side body — place them in closing position at waist and measure across * waist 16, add 2* inches for making up 18*, and form lapel seam as illusrated ; When the waist is less than the normal size, say 30 or 31, do not cut the lapel seam any different but make the difference by taking out equally at fish and side body seams ; it is preferable to reduce the waist by two fishes rather than to have a too round breast line ; if the waist is reduced at front, the coat when buttoned is apt to ride up ; moreover it makes a greater difiiculty to the "Jour" to produce a good front ; the present style of lapel is annexed — cut about 2 inches at bottom and 2\ at top. Third Edition.^ 'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 63 18i 64 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. DIAGRAM 31. S. B. VEST. ( 10^ top button. 36 Breast. MEASURES. \ 25 Length. 32 Waist. I Natural Waist 16|. BY SCALE OF BREAST MEASURE. DRAW back seam. Square across as at O ; From O to D is end of scale to D ; Square up | iucli for rise of neck ; Form top of back ; From O to A is end of scale to A ; From O to B is end of scale to B ; From O to C is end of scale to C ; From O to natural waist is 1 6^ inches ; Square out from each point except B ; From A to W is end of scale to W ; Square up ; From W to * is end of scale to * ; Form shoulder seam as illustrated, widening top of back a good seam ; From C to E is end of scale to E ; from C to F is end of scale to F ; Square up from E ; square up from F, 3 inches for front of scye ; Place angle of square at E, one arm touching at B, and where the other arm strikes the top line will be the shoulder point ; * on line E is end of scale to * ; From shoulder point draw line through this depth and form shoulder seam of fore part ; Form scye as illustrated, dealing line at F about \ of an inch ; From C across to front of draft is \ breast measure and 2| inches — 20^ ; Divide draft into equal parts and square down ; Form side seams taking out one inch on each side of natural waist ; Form back seam, reducing at top \ of an inch and at natural waist | of an inch. Square down for front line and form front of Vest as illustrated. Allowing for width of top of back make Vest exact length and square across. Add 1 inch for making up and form bottom of Vest as illustrated; Top button to measure, allowing foi' width of top of back and seams; Form gorge as illustrated. Should there be more difference than 4 inches between breast and waist (36-32), take out a fish instead of a V; if the size of waist is equal to or more than breast add on \ of the difference on front and \ under arm. See Diagram of cor- pulent Vest. Third Jtdition.] 'STANDARD" WOUK ON CUTTING. 65 16^ PAET III. Third Edition.] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 67 MISFITS. M ISFITS arise from the folloAving causes : 1st. An incorrect measure. 2d. Misconception of the Form. 8d. Want of cai'e in drafting. 4th. Bad making up. 1st. An incorrect measure. See pages 6-7-8 and 9. 2d. Misconception of the Form. A careful study of the methods inculcated under the headings, Attitude or Inclination, see pages 68-7'2, Use of Block Patterns, see pages 73-81, will give the student the necessary information regarding the eiTor which causes th misfit. 3d. Want of care in drafting. The only reason for this heading is to emphasize the necessity of care. The two self-evident propositions the Cutter has to bear in mind are : Get a correct measure. Apply it correctly. 4th. Bad Making up. See pages 83-8(1 68 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. INCLINATION OR ATTITUDE OF THE FIG- URE TO BE FITTED. HAVING taken the required measures with the greatest care possiljle, we have only arrived at lengths, depths and widths from one point to another; and that, too, over a curved surface. Now, it is evident, that on laying off these meas- ures, we do so on other lines and in other directions than on the figure measured. Every line on the body is more or less on the curve, and some of the measures in their course pass over a very irregular surface, round at one place and hollow at another ; to rectify which we have to fall back on experience as to what allowance, either of increase or decrease, that experience has found to be necessary. When that has been done and we have the di'aft completed so fai-, two other things of equal, if not greater impoitance, remain to be considered ; first, style ; second, attitude or in- clination of the figure — the figure may bend from the waist, blade, or toi) of shoulder, backward or foi'ward. These two positions are seen in Diagram A and Diagiara B ; or bending either way above the blade, may take a contrary direction below. It is easy to be understood that the direction of the body has to be followed as well as the lengths and widths, or there will be a misfit .The required room may be in the draft, but it may not be in the right dii-ection. The method which produced the draft will have to be supplemented by considerations, which shall place the given lines of length and width in the required direction. Diagrams C and D are the drafts as produced by measure. Diagram B is the alteration made for the stooping figure. Diagram A is the alteration made for the over-erect figure. The pi'inciple involved is the same in both instances : that of swinging the pat- tern on a pivot foi'ward or backward, as inclined in its attitude. The waist suppression must not be interfered with, as all necessary changes are made by the change of the position. For the stooping figure : — Lay the back in position and swing it forward, mak- ing C a pivot to the extent that judgment dictates. The scje has no need to be forwarded, nor has the shoulder point. The front scye is correctly located by the front of scye or short blade measure, and the greater depth of back scye has made the necessary variation in the shoulder point. Diagram A shows the alteration tj suit the over-erect figure. It will be seen that C is made a pivot, and that the back is thrown backwards in the direction of the over-erect attitude, as indicated by the dotted lines. The measure in this case, as in the stooping one, has located the scye in the right place, and the shorter back measure, in squaring for the shoulder point, has brought it farther back, giving it the necessary inclination demanded. ITiird Edition. "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTINO. 69 STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. DIAGRAM F. SWAYBACK. rriHE stooping figure,w]iich generally has an indentation at tlie natural waist of about I inch or f, sometimes takes the foi'm of what is called the swayback ; that is; from below the blade, the attitude is thesameasthatof the over-erect, and the indenta- tion reaches 1^ or If inch, a figure generally considered very difficult to fit; this can be accomplished, however, by following the instructions given in Diagram B, page 69. Incline the back forward foi- the stooping position of the shoulders and then throw out the back skirt by the waist indentation as in Diagram I, page 69, for the over-erect figure. In Diagram E the waist indentation is | of an inch only, while in Diagram F the waist indentation is 11 inch as per dotted line. The top part of the back is ol' the same inclination in both figures. TIdrd Edition.] 'STANDARD" WOKK ON OITTTING. 71 A y^ sivaij buck PAET IV. Third Edition.] "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. n USE OF BLOCK PATTERNS. ~j PAVING secured Patterns suited to the class of Trade for which they are required, it is requisite to enter on the measure book whatever differences from the normal type can be detected by the Cutter as aids to his measures. Short neck, flat hips, hollow at chest above the breast line, over-erect, head carried back, head forward, hollow between the blades, fleshy across back and around shoidders, very stooping, narrow chested, flat seat, prominent hips, high or low shoulders, pro- minent or flat blade, or any other peculiar conformation that the eye can detect. Note height, weight, age, as all of those remarks will be of untold advantage as the Cutter acquires experience in the use of Block Patterns. "74 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. ^Third Edition. USE OF BLOCK PATTERNS. DIAGRAMS G-H. STOOPING FIGURE. PLACE back in position and mark round it lightly; Pivot at C and incline the back forward as indicated by dotted lines ; From O to C ronnd the back seam slightly to give more room across the shoulders ; the proper inclination being given, sufficient ease will be obtained for the round of the shoulders and a clean smoothly-fitting back will be the result ; on stooping forms the back is relatively longei- than the normal pattern ; it is therefore necessary toadd as on the diagram; if no measure has been taken add \ or f of an inch, according to judgment; Place the fore-part in position and mark round it lightly; make mark as X and use X as a pivot inclining fore part forward half as much as the back was, and mark around as per dotted lines ; the scye will be forwarded thereby and the shoulder point also. The shoulders are not necessarily larger because the figure stoops ; it is simply a difference in front and back lengths; instead of the first over measure being ISA it will be possibly llf, the lost | being made up from the front of scye to socket bone at O; the measure will also be more from F to C ; it will be necessary to shorten the shoulder as per broken lines to preserve the same size of the shoulder. DIAGRAMS I-J. THE OVER-ERECT. Place Pattern of back in p-r^sition, mark round it lightly, use C as a pivot and swing the back backward as per dotted lines ; this gives the attitude or inclination of the figuie; Over-erect figures are shorter from C to O than the normal one which the pattern fits, it will therefore be necessary to reduce as per broken lines on the Diagram. FORE-PART. Place the fore-part in position, mark round it lightly, use * at arm scye as a pivot, and mark around it as per dotted lines ; Reduce under arm and add at front of breast as illustrated; erect figures being smaller from C to F and larger from F aci'oss to the front of breast than the normal form which the pattern fits ; this figure is also longer on the front shoulder and requires to be added to as per broken lines the same amount as taken ofl: the back, and the reduction under the arm so as to make the shoulder measure fill. These figures accounted so difficult to fit, lose their apparent difficulty when it is considered that the three figures measure the same size of shoulder ; the difference being that the stooping is longer on the back and shorter on the front of shoulder ; the erect figure is shorter on the back and as much longer on the front shoulder. Our illustration provides step by step for these differences. In each case adjust the length of side seam of side body to the altered back. Diagrams G-H, I and J show the action of the principle involved step by step, but Diagrams K-L, M and N sho^v a quicker and simpler method which arrives at the same result. Third EditionJ] STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 73 V6 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. USE OF BLOCK PATTER]S"S, Oontinued. DIAGRAMS K-L. CUT across the back at the point where the incliuatiou of the figure commences and open for the stooping figure what the measure calls for over and above that of the block pattern and mark around the back. Reform the back seam so as not to have a too sudden curve. FORE PART. Cut across the fore part on the breast line and lap one half the amount the back was opened ; mark around the pattern, then reduce a little at front of breast and cut out pattern. Another method taught in the old school is to make a round shoulder seam on either the back or fore part or on both, and also to add to the round of blade or side seam of side body; this puts on a longer back, raises the neck, and gives the required measures over the rounded back shoulder of the bent back of the stooping figure it is true ; but, it is unfortunately true also, that it places too much cloth on the front shoulder of fore part, making the shoulder seam longer than is required, and works in time into wrinkles, simply because cloth is given where it is not wanted ; it places too much length on the round of blade and balloons the back below the curve of the hachseam IncUnatioiioi the figure; the difficulties of the jour, are increased, and it is next to impossible for him to produce a clean, smooth, natural looking shoulder and side seam ; when on, such a coat has a heavy and clumsy look around the neck aud shoulders, strongly emphasising the disproportion ; and is one more striking illustra. tion of the danger incurred through not following the lines of the figure ; DIAGRAMS M-N. OVER ERECT, Do just the reverse of that for the stooping figui'e — cut across back and lap the parts to bring the level at scye line on back to the required measure, and open the fore part on breast line, adding to make breast larger just what is taken oif at side body under arm. Remarks : In case the shoulder measures are larger than the block pattern will measure, take the size breast that comes to the shoulder measures required — treat the pattern as already instructed, and placing the different parts in closing position make the breast size to measure. Third Edition.] 'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 78 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third EcUtion. USE OF BLOCK PATTERNS, Continued. DIAGRAM. SLOPING SHOULDER WITH ARM SCYE REGULAR- rriHE Sloping Shoulder must notl)e mistaken for tlae long neck; the shoulder may be very low and the neck be of normal length ; a low shoulder may also be ao. companied by a long neck, but this is so marked a form that it can not easily be mistaken ; the usual error made is not noticing whether the scye is smaller or not than is usual; in all cases of slopi.^g shoulder it is well to take the scye measure ; if the scye measure is proportionate to the size of shoulder, the dotted lines give the necessary alteration; if smaller, then Diagram P should be followed. The back re- mains the same in either case. See Diagram R. HIGH SHOULDER. High shouldered figures usually stand over erect, and the block pattern should be treated as per Diagram M for the over erect figure ; then add on at scye point of shoulder, \ or f inch, as required ; the scye level measure will show if the neck needs to be lowered. DIAGRAM S. SHORT NECK. Simply reduce as per dotted lines. DIAGRAM T. LONG NECK. The Normal or Block Pattern, being too low in the neck for this figure, add on as illustrated, but it is necessary to spring the seams at neck point of shoulder in order that the Coat may go up and keep its place around the neck ; many a Coat sufficientl}" high in the neck, but not hollow enough at side of neck, drops down in a crease under collar seam and bafiles the inexperienced to discover the fault. Ttdrd Edition.^ " STANDARD" WUUK ON CUTTING. 79 80 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. LARGE WAISTED FIGURE. rriO altei- a block pattern to suit this figure demands s^^ecial attention ; the extra -*- size is usually from the side body seams to the front ; if so, add J- of the diffei-enee at the waist under the arm and | on the front ; but it sometimes happens that the form is pretty well rounded almost from the hip button ; in such a case add \ of the difference under the arm at waist gradually from the top of side body and the other \ in front. This balances the figure as well as it can be on general principles ; it will be necessary to adjust the run of the bottom of the scye. SMALL WAISTS. It is best to allow the front line at lapel seam and the side seam line to be un. disturbed, and to take out the difference of measure at the side body seams and at the front slash ; if the waist is very small it is advisable to take out two slashes. DIAGRAM 32. LARGE HIPS. This Figure has to be arranged for in a different manner than is usually taught, and frequently gives trouble to the experienced cutter; the student is generally told to dispense with the waist measure; to allow for seams and govern all coats that button at or near the waist, by the hip measure ; this is a mistake as it places the increase of size at the front when it is wanted on the hips, mainly on each side of the hip bone ; a careful study of the diagram will show the correct method ; the rest of the diagram excej^t that the hips are li inch larger is the same draft as Diagram 6, page 21; shoulder point, bottom of side seam, waist suppression are all the same; the difference is on the hip; the extra size requii'ed being placed there from the natural waist as spring; the fish is slightly altered also to give the advantage of a forward spring on the waist seam, so as to ease the skirt in front; the side body should be stretched as hard as the goods will admit of without going back again; the waist seam of the fore part should be gradually w'orked out to give the hip the required size, as it is scarcely possible to give all the size in spring on the under arm seams sufficiently sudden without giving the ajipearance of the female hip, which must be avoided; a judicious use of the iron will greatly aid the formation of a nice appearance around the waist of a figure with prominent hips ; the waist of the skirt should also be well shrunk in before joining to the fore part. Third Edition.'\ "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 81 PART Y. 84 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [Third Edition. ON MAKING UP. To make this Work more complete, we propose to give some practical advice in making up, that experience has taught us is much needed. To have a well marked success, the Cutter must know all the details of the makino- up ; in point of fact, should be as much " at home " in the workroom as at the cutting table. He should be so much the master of his business as to be enabled to take the garment out of the hand of the " Jour " and point out what is wrong, beyond the possibility of contradiction ; else he stunds a poor chance of being able to distiuguish where the faults lie when accidents happen. This is not a work on manners, therefore we need say no more than that faults should be kindly pointed out ; it is bad policy to offend the ivorTcnian. Do with as little stretching as possible, and wherever edges require to be tight- ened have it done by the iron before the edges are stayed by tape. See that the facings are put in smoothly and of suiScient size ; taking for granted that the seams have been cut with the required contour of curve, see that the line is preserved in the making up, and that the facings are always felled exactly on tJie seams, preserv- ing the same shape. A very important thing, as regards gracefulness and fit, is comprised in putting in the facings to fit the outside ; if this be properly done and the Coat is not what it should he, then the Cutter has a problem for consideration.- Nothing tells more against a Cutter's reputation than creases or wrinkles in his garments ; not even a misfit. On the detection of a crease, whether it be across the top of the back, across the shoulder, at front of scye, across the breast, or across the top of side seam (and it is the Cutter's experience to get all of them , it becomes his business to hiow the why and wherefore ; and, unless he be as conversant with the details of the making up of the garment as he is with the cutting of it; he is placed in a very unenviable position, he is at the mercy of the " JourP Many who either cannot or do not reason, place a ci'eased shoulder on the broad back of that White Elephant in the Trade, the shoulder point ; it is said to be too straight or too croohed, dependant upon its being more forward or more backward than just that exact spot which, to such minds, is the ne plus ultra of all that is required in a coat ; entirely overlooking the fact that in the many practical systems used by our leading cutters (all other conditions being equal) that the shoulder point has a play of an inch forward and an inch backward from a central point, and in no instance getting a creased shoulder; of course, always provided the required length of strap is given. IJdrd Edition.^ "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 85 If the shoulder is of sufficient length and in its proper position and yet creases, what is the cause ? We answer, the most prolific of all causes — TWISTED FACINGS. Facings should be cut about f of an inch larger around neck, shoulder seam and scye than the fore part ; no more ; it is usual to cut them an inch larger ; the two lines on diagram 1 will show what we mean. When cut to the outside line there is too much margin given to the Jour, and if, as is generally the case in all shops ex- cept those of the best trade (and sometimes even among them), the sleeves are sewn in by machine, and that too before the facing is basted to the shoulder ; it is more than probable as the Jour has then no guide as to shape that most or all of the extra width will get pushed out at A or D see (Diagram 2), and cut off, the extra length will be basted in between D and B ; the consequence is that the scye from D to B being on the bias, and the fullness of the sleeve being kept on in that distance, that this part of the scye gets stretched to the length of the facing, and being serged tightly to it, drops down with the back pad at back scye, causing wrinkles as shown in Diagrams 2 and 3 on blade, besides having the effect of making the top of side seam appear too large ; too much length from B to D made in this way affects point A, as if A were cut too short, and unsightly wrinkles appear as shown in Diagram 4 ; once in, never out again ; you may rip shoulder seam, IkjIIow and stretch fore part at neck point of shoulder and gorge, put back and collar on full and lengthen shoulder point to balance the lengthened scye point, but the creases will not away — the only chance is to cut the entire facing clear across the shoulder, canvas wadding and interlining 86 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. [ Third Edition. and baste new top of facing to tlie shape of sboulder, for there is the fault and this is the cure. The facing is a joint conij)act mass, welded together by being thickly padded, or still worse, machine sewed and ahoays vommands tlie outside ; it becomes the same thing as if the Cutter had cut the shoulder f of an inch too short at neck point, and as much too long at "^cye point ; had this been done all know the shoulder must break, and it is more certain to do so now, by the facing being twisted in shape, and pulling the outside in different directions. Such defective tailoring is very apt, too, to further increase the fault by the back being put on tight in the hollow of the shoulder, which of itself would throw creases even if there were no facing. Diagram 2, will show also in the lower line a too deep interlining and wadding brought down below the round of blade and hollow of side body and side seam. Now, the out- side is hollow under the arm and round over the blade, falling in at top of side seam point ; as usually worked up, the interlining and its cargo being made up flat, and on the straight, drags on the blade, causing the outside to appear full, as we have be- fore noticed (see Diagram 3), and when brought up to the shoulder and closed, hav- ing neither sufficient length nor width for the outside on the rounded parts, drags away at A, causing creases as seen on Diagram 4. ILLUSTRATIVE DIAGRAMS 3, 4, 5 and 6. The facings should always be cut through at the side seam — the back pad being made apart from the side body, and stitched on the back lining independently, and fastened on side seam as it is on the shoulder seam to the exact shape of the respect- ive seams, and on the seams not half or three-quarters of an inch away from them. This troublesome crease business, and it is an ever recurring one in large trades, can be easily avoided by the means we have indicated. In speaking of twisted facings as the most prolific cause of creased shoulders we desire to impress on the mind of the reader the obvious fact that if the inside of the Coat does not fit the cus^-omer the outside cannot ; if any main point of the facing fail to reach its proper position by one-half inch or by one and a half inches, that Third EditionA^ "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. 87 main point of the outside to whict such point of the facing is attached, is thereby located where the facing brings it, besides having the outside disfigured by the crease, fold or wrinkle into which the outside consequently doubles up. Tiw facing slwnld he tiglit noivhere, neither in length nor width, but should fit the outside as the inside of the eggshell fits the outside ; whei'ever possible the fac- ing should be treated as is the outside ; V for V, shrinking for shrinking, stretching for stretching ; and where the facing cannot be stretched as is the outside, a V or fullness should be used to produce the same effect ; the front edge is more «)r less shrunk in always, yet how few shrink in the facing to fit it ; the consequence is that the outside is all of a blister, and the room intended to have been given over the round of the chest is destroyed and the coat tightened across the buttoning ; the shape required is indicated by the cuts and the boundary lines ; but what is more common in the daily experience of the Cutter than to find the same effect produced in the finished garment when he has cut V's as when he has cut fishes ; often both are pressed out flat and the whole effect destroyed by the facing being put in, not only flat but tight also ; the fish intended to make a shapely hollow, the V a re- quired fullness on the round ; each desired effect destroyed by defective tailoring and the garment finished as flat as the cutting-table, except where the tightened edge curls the thing inward ; this is not shaping, it is simply crippling the outside ; even when the canvas, hair-cloth and its cargo may be rightly shaped, the cloth facing and lining counteract what this was intended to produce. The simplest method known to us is to build up one part of the garment on the other — the canvas on the outside, the interlining, hair-cloth and padding successively placed one upon the other, each in its turn worked up to fit each other. The shape of the facings can be greatly helped by cutting the edges which are sewn to each other lengthwise. (See Diagram 6). Just whei-e the lining sews on to the inner edge of the cloth, is usually the place on the breast that the Cutter intends should be shaped to the figure, and by cuts he pro- duces a rounded form; it will be seen that both edges are rounded in the Diagram; this gives both length and width at this part and meets the requirements of the out- side and has no tendency to slide away from its proper place when finished, as is the case in some other methods intended to produce the same effect. Facings cut as per Diagram 6, prevent the formation of horizontal creases across the breast, which we have seen after a few days wear start from the top button, increasing in boldness as they traveled downward to the waist seam ; when this is the case a slash lengthwise and another crosswise will show the trouble plainly ; the facing freed will gape as if tired by the effort to spoil the fit. Put on the garment after the slashes have been made, that which seemed shapeless, swinging about as if it had no relation to the figure it was made for, will drop into its place hugging the breast, falling neatly into the hips and around the breast, fulfilling the best hopes of the Cutter. 88 "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING, yThird Edition. Diagram 5 is oflferecl as a Coniindriim to those who still cling to the ridiculous idea that the mere position of the shoulder point is the cause of creases on the shouldei'. It is intended to represent the shoulder of a Coat without a shoulder seam, the back and fore pail being cut in one piece. Will any tailor out of a lunatic asylum doubt that this shoulder will crease and wrinkle if the facings are put in as we described when considering them as the cause of the trouble ? Put on a short collar, twist the facings, keep the fullness of the sleeve head close to back pitch, and as far away from fore arm as is possible, and a most interesting " kill " is the result ; creased shoulder, tightened scye and fullness at top of side body seam will then be apparent ; but where, all this time is the shoulder point ? A Coat may be cut outrageously crooked, crooked enough to fall away from the fore arm pivot and swing off at the hip, or it may be cut outrageously straight, straight as the latest appearance of the old thirds and fourths in its grand edition, and yet no creases need appear on the shoulders ; in the one case, the Coat may soon tear at the fore arm, and in the other, no amount of objugatory prayer will keep it fi'om lapping at the front of scye ; the Customer will complain of too much cloth, but it is simply the result of a constrained position of the shoulder — the shoulder out of its position with respect to the other parts of the garment. Slash such a Coat across from the place where the lap commences above the fore arm to the top but- ton, and the breast will open enough to get rid of the lapping, but the Coat will hang listlessly around the hips under the arms like* a flapping sail, showing plainly that a true balance is the liarnionious relationship of the various pieces called a Coat. On paper the draughtsman can make any point his fixed point and rightly claim that it must not be disturbed, because all his other points obey its governing impulse, he may start his Coat from a given inclination or direction of the breast- line, the neck and hip can only be placed within determinable spaces ; his suppres- sion then becomes of vital consideration; he may start from some point in the neck ciicle and work downwards, locating every point in accordance M'ith this one ; or he may prefer the orthodox straight back seam and work from the socket bone in the usual way, locating his several points upon some theory of mutual relationship, but it is upon this idea only can he work rationally and come out right. How much do 3'ou take out at top of side body ? How much do you take out between back and side body at natural waist i How much do you consider ought to be taken out under arm ? Do you think, chimes in a discoverer, that anything ought to come out at side seam, top or bottom, simply a fish to fit the hollow — is not that your idea; Where do you fix your shoulder point ? Who has not been asked these questions whenever a number of Ciitteis rally round a Coat Draft I We close this essay by saying that such questions are proof positive that the questioners have all to learn ; that they are as yet totally ignorant of the first principles involved ; every point is in relation as to position with every other. PAET VI. PO "STANDARD" WORK ON CLTTTING. [Third Edition. CREASES IN GENERAL. IT is not ouly across the shoulders and breast that badly fitting, twisted and tight facings will produce creases. We have already pointed out that horizontal Avrinkles are too apt to gather across the top of the side-body also, and that when this defect occurs it not unfrequently happens that it causes the scye to feel tight at the ff)rearni ; it sometimes chances that the creases extend from the forearm across the shoulder, making a heavy fold underneath the collar seam from one side of the neck to the other ; in such an extreme case as this, the facing being much too short to reach the shoulder-point, the back lining is pulled upon to supply the deficiency, and having no moi'e width at top of back than the l)ack itself requires, it produces a similar effect to that caused by the back lining being too short at top ; but the chief fault is that there is not sufficient room in the lining around the neck, which cripples the outside by bringing it down to that place around the neck which is of the same size in its curve as the lining ; a fold or wrinkle below is the inevitable conse- quence ; it cannot lie smoothly about the neck on a longer curve than that to Avhich the insufficient inside has brought the outside. Back linings are rarely put in wide enough immediately across the top of back, as the shoulder seams of the lining are felled befoi'e the collar is sewed on, and no allowance is made for the stretching of the neck gorge ; true, it is custom- ary to put a plait through the back seam ; but it is also customary to securely tighten it by sewing the makei*'s name ticket firmly across the back plait, a piece of stout silk or lasting on the straight fastened down so as effectually to coun- teract any good for which the plait was intended ; kept from all elasticity still further by the felling of the collar. The attempt to cori-ect this fault of a roll around the back neck, is made mainly on the supposition that the Coat is cut too high in the neck, oi- that the collar is over- stretched and put on shoit ; in the former case the neck is lowered and the collar stretched ; but the unsightly fold remains, because the lining, ten chances to one, is now tighter than before ; in the latter case the collar is lengthened, but to no pur- pose ; a V in the facing at neck gorge and more lining across the top of back is the remedy, at once simple and correct ; this being attended to and the fault still in existence, the Coat is [)i'obably cut too high in the neck, and also lacks sufficient spring foi" the slope of neck at shoulder point of shoulder seam ; this is easily dis- covered by opening the shoulder seam and setting the collar free at top of back ; in stout figures with short thick necks, the double fault is sometimes made in cutting ; cut too high in the neck, and also nipped too much at neck of shoulder seams on forepart and back ; and it is sometimes, nay, often, caused by badly cut underwear and woi'se out shirts making a thick roll of goods across the back at top, making it next to impossible for any outer garment to remain smoothly in its place. Third Edition.^ 'STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. CREASES AT BAOK-SCYE. This fault in an othei-wise faultless coat is fre(|nently caused by cutting too straight a back seaiu for the sake of style, and is as often found in the work of high- class^trades as in that of poorer ones. It is a fixed idea with the cutter, that unless the back of the figure to be fitted has a violent inclination one way or the other, bending backward or bending forward, very stooping, or over-erect, it k a fixed idea that the hacTc seam shotild he cut straight, ai'id the back is lengthened or shortened as if this squarely met the case ; printers' ink is used in abundance; teachers of cuttnig affect to be knowing and talk glibly ; anatomy, mathematics, and machinery are called into coui-t to get the true level of arm scye on the back, and a point at right angles with the same at front of scye; with these relative measurements thus secured, the cutter is assured that he cannot go wrong. Alas! it so happens that he does, not- withstanding — meamvement is not attitude, length is not inclination. SEE DIAGRAMS 1 AND 2. ILLUSTRATIVE DIAGRAMS 1, 3, 3 and 4. Diagram 1 shows the section of the normal back which is to be fitted ; Diagram 2, the back cut in true orthodox fashion to fit it. Now it is self-evident that when the straight edge of the back-seam is placed on this curved inclination, there will be a superabundance of cloth to 1 e got rid off somehow, or theie will be no fit; it is as idle to e.xpect it as it would be to think of fitting a spherical ball or a cone by join- ino- stiaifht lines together. A glance at Diagram 6, will show what we mean : wedges must be taken out as at Y, either end, or fit is impossible ; so in fitting the irregular curves of the human figure we have to get rid of the "too muchness" by taking out w'edges. How much and where, is the Cutter's problem. Diagram 5, is a representation of the current method ; we take out at E, O and D — very rai'ely any- thing at A, unless for very marked abnormality. What, then, is the consequence ? "STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING. {Third Edition. Shaping by drawing in, pressing away of fullness, stretching, shrinking, and by some minor reductions, V's and slashes, we contrive to get a flexible material into some- thinf like respectable form. Happily, or unhappily, we have not to deal with inflex- ible 'o-oods — happily, because we now escape thereby downright failure which other- wise°would be our lot ; unhappily, because if we were forced to work out results with inflexible goods, we should have to put ourselves under practical scientific study, and, paradoxical as it may appear, principles would be sought and found, that may not yet for many a year dawn upou our contented and benighted undei'stand- ino^s. Wie should then be driven to follow the curves and lines of the surface to be fitted and though driven to our wit's end for some method of rectification, we have no doubt that a cleaner fit and a far higher artistic result would be achieved with the more difficult material. Diagram 4 shows what frequently occurs when a straight ILLUSTRATIVE DIAGRAMS 5 and 6. line in the back is made to cover a figure only slightly more bent forward than the normal one ; there is a pucker or fullness at D, and no extra reduction as at E and O, Diagram 5, will lemove it. Cut the back across as at O and O, Diagram 3, and the shoulder seam drops down, lapping over the superabundant goods, and the back seam if ripped open will fall forward at the top. Diagram 3 is pui'posely exaggerated to make the meaning clearer ; an easy alteration can be made, provided an outlet has been left in the back seam. Open the back seam from the socket bone to below the arm-scye level, and the gap will show at once what is wanted — the fault at D will have disappeared, show- ing plainly that a wedge ought to have been taken out at top of back, as well as at points of sboulder, top of side seam and bottom of same. No one would attempt to fit the curve of the blade Avithout taking out wedges, and yet the same man will expect to get a clean surface on the curve of the back seam without it. A curved l)ack seam" with the right inclination, may actually have a shoiier back and give a cleaner and more graceful style than the straight and longer one.