MMMMOtttnmMtXI 
 
 MMHmMMiiuwiaimii^M«m «. 
 
 
 7a i inmrt« i iTnTn i rr-^iTHP<ffnr^MI H fW 
 
 my* 
 
 
 1 
 
 ■ L— MflHM<»1IW^ MTiH(TH-^i | TT ^t | >Mn H ' T tf^ n W i n1 > WT M WOgap 
 
 BBgepflft M Ctts-aaiiSBsegaB ^ ^ 
 
 - — "■-■■■ ■ •-■ 
 
MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 CONSTRUCTIVE WORK FOR BOYS AND GIRLS BASED 
 ON THE PLAY INTEREST 
 
•Tl 
 
 >&&&■ 
 
 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 NEW YORK • BOSTON • CHICAGO • DALLAS 
 ATLANTA - SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 MACMILLAN & CO., Limited 
 
 LONDON • BOMBAY • CALCUTTA 
 MELBOURNE 
 
 THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, Ltd. 
 
 TORONTO 
 
MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 CONSTRUCTIVE WORK FOR BOYS AND GIRLS BASED 
 
 ON THE PLAY INTEREST 
 
 BY 
 
 WILLIAM S. MARTEN 
 
 DEPARTMENT OF THE INDUSTRIAL ARTS, STATE NORMAL SCHOOL 
 
 SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA 
 
 AUTHOR OF "INEXPENSIVE BASKETRY" 
 
 WITH WORKING DRAWINGS AND ILLUSTRATIONS OF SEVERAL HUNDRED 
 
 VARIOUS PROBLEMS 
 
 Nefo fork 
 
 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 1917 
 
 All rights reserved 
 
y\3 
 
 Copyright, 191 7, 
 By WILLIAM S. MARTEN. 
 
 Set up and electrotyped. Published February, 1917 
 
 FEB 15 1917 
 
 NorfaooD ^rtgg 
 
 J. S. Cushing Co. — Berwick & Smith Oo 
 
 Norwood, M:i^>.. U.S.A. 
 
 CI.A455542 
 I 
 
DEDICATED 
 
 TO THE 
 
 BOYS AND GIRLS OF AMERICA 
 
 THAT THEY MAY GROW IN THE ABILITY TO MAKE 
 
 OUR AMERICA THE LEADER OF THE NATIONS 
 
 IN CONSTRUCTIVE THINGS THAT ARE 
 
 MOST WORTH WHILE 
 
 /7-^:' 
 
c 
 o 
 
 E 
 
 
 4-> "* 
 
 
 C 
 
 3 
 
 CQ 
 
 ■»-» 
 
 «J 
 
 O 
 
 CQ 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 a 
 
 c 
 .o 
 
 z ± 
 
 >- a 
 
 >- „ . 
 
 <u 
 
 
 1 
 
 c U 
 o ^ 
 
 > 
 
 
The Clermont 
 (Courtesy of Miss Grace G. Parsons, Vocational School, Albany, N. Y.) 
 
" The value of constructive play as a factor in development 
 is an unworked educational mine." 
 
 — Edgar James Swift. 
 
FOREWORD 
 
 When teaching manual training in the upper grammar grades, I 
 
 announced that a special class would be formed the next afternoon for 
 
 all boys interested in special work. Two dozen applicants p 
 
 met the next afternoon after school. It was agreed that perience with 
 
 we should call ourselves the "Experimental Mechanics," thre.pjj?" 10 " 
 
 that the hours should be 3 : 30 to 5 : 00 each afternoon Interest of 
 
 after school and 1 : 00 to 1 2 : 00 each morning on Satur- incentive for 
 
 days and holidays, and that punctuality would be re- Organizing 
 
 i r . , ill l i • • i i * ne Problems, 
 
 quired tor each boy to hold membership in the class. 
 
 The morning of Thanksgiving Day, Clinton Toms, a son of the 
 
 Work of High Sixth Grade. Crocker Intermediate School, San Francisco, Cat 
 
 (Kindness of Mr. H. M. Bernhardt 
 
 ix 
 
x FOREWORD 
 
 superintendent of several of the large factories of the city, came in 
 fifteen minutes late. 
 
 "Why, Clinton! What does this mean!" I said. "Oversleep 
 yourself this morning?" 
 
 "No, sir. I was up before five o'clock. Papa said I must level 
 up the front yard this morning, so I got up two hours before break- 
 fast and worked until daylight with a lantern fastened to the wheel- 
 barrow so that I could come over and work on my glider," was his 
 reply. 
 
 On another morning two boys, whose parents did not permit them 
 to join the "Experimental Mechanics," came to school quite late. 
 Upon inquiry, I found that the boys had gotten up before daylight 
 in order to try out in the near-by hills a large glider which they had 
 constructed in a neighbor's barn. The glider came to grief, and the 
 parents reprimanded the boys when they heard about it ; but this did 
 not deter the boys from later building a large-size aeroplane. Every- 
 thing was ready for flying the aeroplane, except putting in the motor, 
 when the parents became aware of the fact that the boys actually 
 intended to fly it ; and it too was destroyed, but in a somewhat differ- 
 ent manner from the glider. 
 
 These instances of the interest in "constructive-play" activities 
 manifested by the children, which continue so forcibly to come to my 
 attention, have been the spur which has prompted me to organize 
 such problems in available form so that the boys and girls can con- 
 struct them at school or at home. 
 
 All the detailed problems herewith presented cover several years 
 of personal work with children in the settlements and the vacation 
 schools of New York City and Pittsburgh, and in the regular public 
 schools in various parts of the United States. These problems are 
 practical for school work because we have tried them out on the play- 
 ground and in the school workshop. In thus being tested, faults of 
 construction have been found and corrected, and improvements in 
 design have been made. I have found that working from the draw- 
 ings of a problem that has not been tested by experience is often- 
 times a costly experiment. Many of the problems suggested in the 
 
FOREWORD 
 
 XI 
 
 boys' magazines have simply been worked out of an adult mind ; and, 
 when these directions for construction are followed by the boy, the 
 object has oftentimes failed to work. Unless the boy is especially 
 talented or has some one to help him over the obstacles, the difficulty 
 has been so dismaying that it has put a damper on his future self- 
 effort. By having the drawings and photograph accompany definite 
 suggestions for the construction of each problem, I have found that 
 it is possible to have the children at school or at home intelligently 
 construct objects that are a source of satisfaction and pleasure to 
 themselves. 
 
 I wish to express my sincere thanks to the many friends who have 
 so kindly helped me with their suggestions and criticisms, and espe- 
 cially do I thank the boys and the girls who have so generously and 
 willingly made the various problems that are shown in the photo- 
 graphic illustrations. 
 
 WILLIAM S. MARTEN. 
 
 State Normal School, San Jose, Cal. 
 October 21, 1916. 
 
 Boats made by a Sixth Grade Class. Horace Mann School, San Jose, Cal. 
 (Courtesy of Mr. Louis C. Butler) 
 
Roller Coasting 
 
 Bowgun Shooting 
 
 Seventh-grade Class on Stilts, Durham, North Carolina 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Page 
 
 The Teachers' Point of View xv 
 
 Suggestions about Construction and Use of Tools xix 
 
 Tops; spool, color, butterfly, plug, disc, etc 2 
 
 Cigar box furniture and other problems ; table, davenport, cradle, wash- 
 stand, etc 4 
 
 Butterfly and whirligig or flying top 6 
 
 Ring toss games ; with string and stick, and ring and hook 8 
 
 Buzzer and primitive string drill 10 
 
 Garden sticks, sign, trellises, and labels 12 
 
 Kaleidoscopes . 14 
 
 Bean bag games 16 
 
 Rustic furniture ; porch chair, divan, tables, and benches 18 
 
 Eccentric running wheels 20 
 
 Pistol and sling shot 22 
 
 Running wheels '. . 24 
 
 Traps ; figure 4, barrel and box 26 
 
 Boats ; toy rowboats and power paddle-wheel boats 28 
 
 Insect bottles and nets ; butterfly, minnow, and polliwog 30 
 
 Windmills and vanes ; single, double, Happy Jack, Mother Hubbard, etc. . 34 
 String and whistling instruments ; zither, banjo, fife, whistle, and humming 
 
 bird 38 
 
 Swings ; porch and playground 42 
 
 Map and post card picture puzzles 44 
 
 Print frames 46 
 
 Jacks ; scissors and dancing and clothespin 48 
 
 Jacks ; climbing and jumping 50 
 
 Jacks ; gymnastic and pole 52 
 
 Lever movements ; clothespin blacksmith boys, chicks with worm, 
 
 wrestlers, etc. . 54 
 
 Knives and daggers 56 
 
 Tip cats or peggies 58 
 
 Peggy bats 60 
 
 Fencing rods or swords 62 
 
 xiii 
 
xiv CONTENTS 
 
 Page 
 
 Roque and croquet game boards 64 
 
 Solitaire boards 66 
 
 Marble games, rakes or bridge board 68 
 
 Stilts 70 
 
 Shinney and hockey sticks, pucks and shin guards 72 
 
 Bow guns 74 
 
 Swiss dinkey birds with pendulum ; head and tail movements 78 
 
 Swaying figures ; animals and honest woodsman, or sawyer with pendulum 80 
 
 Falling teeter or seesaw, and ladder 82 
 
 Looms for weaving 84 
 
 Root cages or vivaria 86 
 
 Bird houses 88 
 
 Box traps 90 
 
 Ring toss games and quoits 92 
 
 Rattlers and clickers 96 
 
 Aeroplanes and gliders : 100 
 
 Animals with movable parts 102 
 
 Spreader, press, and mounting case for nature-study work 104 
 
 Roller coaster 106 
 
 Tables ! 108 
 
 Morris chairs and cushions 110 
 
 Beds 112 
 
 Garden tools ; rake, spade, hoe, and shovel 114 
 
 Seesaw and sand box 116 
 
 Dolls — jointed 118 
 
 Running grasshoppers with moving parts 120 
 
 Sailboats 122 
 
 Wheelbarrow and wagon 124 
 
 Roller coasters, autos, and wagons 1 26 
 
 Vaulting pole, vaulting or jumping standard, and hurdle 128 
 
 Checkers, chess, and bagatelle boards 130 
 
 Roller looms for continuous weaving 132 
 
 Aquarium, vivarium, or breeding cage 134 
 
 Dolls — jointed 138 
 
 Davenport and chair 1 40 
 
 House plan arrangement 142 
 
THE TEACHERS' POINT OF VIEW 
 
 It is true that the present existing conditions of school work are 
 far from what they should be. Smaller classes, more time and ma- 
 terial for constructive work, and better equipment are 
 important conditions necessary to secure good results in yiewoint* 
 school work, but more important than these are the intel- Concerning 
 ligent selection of equipment and obtaining of supplies as Equfpment 1 
 well as proper class management. The wise class teacher 
 knows that too much individual instruction is as bad, if not worse, 
 than the formality necessitated by large classes, that the boys and 
 girls should to some extent be thrown upon their own resources and 
 left to think out for themselves the solution of their own problems. 
 The wise teacher also considers equipment in its application to con- 
 ditions. The writer has seen most successful vacation school work in 
 poor districts carried on with a very meager equipment, when only such 
 tools and materials as entered into the home life of the children were 
 available. In other poor localities of the same city where the best of 
 equipment was secured, the result was a failure because the tools and 
 materials furnished did not carry over into the home life of the chil- 
 dren. The result of this well-intentioned but unwise effort made 
 the boys dissatisfied with home conditions because the tools and 
 materials provided were outside of the reach of the boy in his own 
 home life. The best benches and tools were installed, and wood was 
 secured from the mill in perfect condition for assembling, rather than 
 using improvised benches and making use of packing boxes, cigar 
 boxes, old clock works, cereal boxes, barrel hoops, and scraps thrown 
 out by industrial plants. 
 
 XV 
 
XVI 
 
 THE POINT OF VIEW 
 
 In many places the writer has made arrangements with the factories 
 to obtain at slight cost materials that were used for the shop work prob- 
 Economy of lems. For instance, for the summer school work of the 
 Materials. Playground Association of Pittsburgh, Pa., we obtained 
 from one of the box factories enough strips of wood, simply at the 
 expense of the hauling, to supply all of the vacation schools with 
 material to make many problems requiring thin strips, such as toys, 
 gliders, and kites. From another woodworking mill we obtained 
 loads of the select pieces of scrap wood and supplied this to each of 
 the schools. This wood sold for firewood was used to make the 
 smaller problems. Children were encouraged to bring in and make a 
 collection of odds and ends that served a purpose in this kind of 
 work. A list of usable things was brought to the attention of the 
 children so that they knew what to collect. The following is a list of 
 things from which an intelligent selection will be found useful for this 
 work: 
 
 aluminum 
 
 carbons 
 
 feathers 
 
 plaster-of-Paris 
 
 axles 
 
 cardboard 
 
 flowers 
 
 potatoes 
 
 bark 
 
 cardboard boxes 
 
 fruit baskets 
 
 prunes 
 
 barrel staves 
 
 cattails 
 
 glass 
 
 raffia 
 
 berry boxes 
 
 cement 
 
 grasses 
 
 rags 
 
 bicycle parts 
 
 clay 
 
 hogsheads 
 
 raisins 
 
 bicycle spoke 
 
 clock works 
 
 leather 
 
 reeds 
 
 bolts 
 
 cloth 
 
 leaves 
 
 rivets 
 
 boxes 
 
 clothespins 
 
 newspapers 
 
 sand 
 
 box edgings 
 
 copper 
 
 nuts 
 
 screws 
 
 brass 
 
 cord 
 
 old envelopes 
 
 seeds 
 
 broomsticks 
 
 corncobs 
 
 packing boxes 
 
 sheet iron 
 
 buttons 
 
 corset steels 
 
 paper 
 
 shells 
 
 button molds 
 
 cotton 
 
 passe-partout 
 
 shoe boxes 
 
 candles 
 
 cotton spools 
 
 peanuts 
 
 skewers 
 
 candy boxes 
 
 drug boxes 
 
 peas 
 
 soap 
 
 canes 
 
 egg shells 
 
 pebbles 
 
 splints 
 
 canvas 
 
 envelopes 
 
 pins 
 
 spools 
 
THE POINT OF VIEW 
 
 XVll 
 
 steel 
 
 thin, wood 
 
 twigs 
 
 wheels 
 
 straws 
 
 tin 
 
 vegetables 
 
 wire 
 
 string 
 
 tin cans 
 
 Venetian iron 
 
 yarns 
 
 strip iron 
 
 tin foil 
 
 walnuts 
 
 zinc 
 
 tarboard 
 
 tooth picks 
 
 wood 
 
 
 Excellent training and economic advantages are gained in making 
 use of the odds and ends and raw materials at hand. Storage closets, 
 corner shelves, or boxes should be provided in which to keep the 
 assortment of various things thus collected. By no means allow this 
 storage closet to become simply a pile of junk. Remember that sys- 
 tem and order is necessary in caring for all supplies. Even greater 
 care is necessary in handling this kind of material. 
 
 The following suggestions will give some idea of possible economy 
 in the use of materials: (1) box edging, from box factory, for kites, 
 gliders, and thin wood toys requiring strips ; (2) select scraps of wood 
 from the woodworking mills for various small problems; (3) hogs- 
 heads and barrel hoops and staves, and reeds and cattails, for bows 
 and arrows ; (4) tin waste from factories, and tin cans for parts of 
 toys, etc. ; (5) orange crates for kites and all thin wood problems ; 
 (6) packing boxes for house furnishing rooms ; (7) springs, wheels, 
 and old clock works for toys and elementary science apparatus ; 
 
 (8) cereal boxes, candy boxes, etc., for house furnishing problems ; 
 
 (9) cigar boxes for thin wood projects requiring boxes; (10) drug 
 packing boxes for ring toss, games, etc. 
 
 To construct the object it is necessary to understand the drawing. 
 In order that the boy or the girl may understand the Use of the 
 drawing more easily, the photograph and the accompanying Drawings, 
 suggestions are offered as a help. To clearly understand an d Printed 
 the drawing and printed directions, it is important that Directlons - 
 the materials and tools be taken in hand. As the work progresses 
 under these conditions the directions will become clear to the worker. 
 Some advantages of these drawings lie in the freedom that is pos- 
 sible in planning the problems (the dimensions given are intended 
 as suggestions only) ; the possibility of individual expression in form, 
 
xviii THE POINT OF VIEW 
 
 outline, and decoration ; and the possibilities for individual creative- 
 ness and inventiveness in the mechanical arrangement of parts 
 and movements. 
 
 There are many opportunities for the play of individuality even in 
 the large classes if a reasonable amount of time is taken for the prepa- 
 Planning the ration of the lesson and for its execution. Almost any 
 Lesson. problem can be used as a type, and with it various modifi- 
 
 cations of proportion and outline are possible. With paper and 
 scissors in the hands of the pupils, individual outlines can be developed, 
 and these can be used as templates or patterns. In thus working out 
 the outlines it is important that plenty of time be allowed for class 
 discussions of good and bad proportions of the patterns cut. A careful 
 leading up to the final results is bound to produce satisfactory results. 
 In cases where time for this development is not possible, patterns 
 worked out by capable pupils or by the teacher must be provided. 
 
SUGGESTIONS ABOUT CONSTRUCTION AND TOOLS 
 
 On account of the hard usage the objects made are bound to re- 
 ceive, it is important that they be strongly constructed. 
 
 For this reason it is often best to use bolts for fastening parts 
 together instead of nails as is usually done. It is well to have small 
 dies on hand for cutting threads on wire that can be made 
 into bolts. Two sizes of dies will be found to be very con- Use ° f B ° ltS * 
 venient ; one, such as is used for cutting threads on bicycle spokes, 
 and another one, -J", will be very convenient. Nuts to fit these sizes 
 can be purchased at the bicycle shop or hardware store. Dies are 
 not expensive, and an assortment of small sizes is most desirable to 
 have on hand. If these are not available, an assortment of small- 
 sized bolts should be kept on hand. For cutting the wire and bolts 
 a hack saw is convenient, but it is not a necessity as the wire or rod 
 can easily be broken off by notching on each side with a file and then 
 bending back and forth a few times. 
 
 When nails are used to fasten pieces together, two nails should 
 be put in at each joint so as to secure or brace the joint thoroughly. 
 One nail at a joint only serves as a pivot. To secure a 
 very strong piece of work, the nails should be clinched. Use ° f Nails ' 
 Common wire nails, because they have large heads, are better to use 
 than brads. To clinch nails, use ones long enough for the points to 
 go through and project slightly. The nails can be clinched if the wood 
 is placed on a flat metal surface and the nails hammered down firmly. 
 The points will be forced over by the metal surface. If the metal 
 surface is not available, place the work on a block of soft wood or 
 locate the nail directly over a hole and drive the nail in place ; then 
 turn the work over and with the nail head resting on a solid surface, 
 turn over the point and hammer it down firmly. When nails are 
 used and cannot be clinched, they hold more effectively if driven in 
 at various angles. To prevent slender brads from bending, pinch them 
 
 XIX 
 
xx MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 tightly while driving them in. Never attempt to use brads that have 
 
 once been bent. Never drive nails in small pieces or in thin pieces 
 
 without first starting the nails by means of a hole bored slightly smaller 
 
 than the nail. If the piece is to pivot freely, the hole should be slightly 
 
 larger than the nail. These holes are usually made with brad-awls or 
 
 drills. 
 
 In fastening with screws, to obtain efficient results, a hole should 
 
 always be bored through the upper piece to receive the screw. This 
 
 hole should always be large enough for the screw to slip 
 Use of Screws. . 
 
 in without forcing. Any binding on the shank of the screw 
 
 lessens the force of its pull. The size of these holes for No. 6, No. 1 0, 
 
 and No. 14 screws should be |", ^", and |", respectively. If soft 
 
 wood is used, it is not necessary to bore a hole into the piece in which 
 
 the point of the screw fastens ; but if hardwood is used, it is necessary 
 
 to bore a hole slightly smaller than the thread of the screw. The 
 
 screw should not have to be forced in hard, else the head of the screw 
 
 is liable to be broken off. A little wax or soap will enable screws and 
 
 brads to go in much easier. When dowels or round rods are needed, 
 
 they can readily be made by planing a stick to nearly the required size 
 
 in diameter and then driving it through a hole bored in a block of iron 
 
 or hard wood. 
 
 Because the brad-awls and drills break so easily, they are very 
 
 expensive. It is unnecessary to use either, since a very effective 
 
 Makine of ^ r *^ can ^ e ma< ^ e f rom a na il or brad. Select one the de- 
 Drills and sired size of the hole, cut off the head, and grind or file one 
 end of it wedge-shaped, that is, flattened on two opposite 
 sides. If better drills are desired, use a hat pin, needle, or other steel 
 wire. Save these improvised drills and a various assortment will soon be 
 on hand ready for use. They can best be used in the ordinary hand 
 drill, but if this is not available they can be used in a brad-awl 
 holder or fastened into a piece of hard wood and used as a brad-awl. 
 When button molds are too small to be used as wheels, a washer 
 cutter should be used to make the wheels. This cutter can be set so 
 that wheels any desired size of diameter can be cut out of wood |" or 
 less in thickness. 
 
SUGGESTIONS ABOUT CONSTRUCTION AND TOOLS xxi 
 
 For use with many materials, shellac serves as an excellent cement. 
 It can be used successfully with nonporous substances, as metal and 
 glass, where glue will not stick. Where a thin coat of Cementing 
 shellac is evenly applied as a varnish, it dries very quickly. Materials. 
 To use shellac as a cement, apply two or three thin coats ; then when 
 partially dry, that is, when it is very sticky to the touch, place the 
 surfaces together and keep them in position for several hours. For 
 fastening thin materials to surfaces, such as lining the inside of a box 
 with silk, first apply two or three thin coats of shellac to the inside of 
 the box : then when the shellac is almost dry, that is, when it is sticky 
 to the touch but will not adhere to the fingers, press the silk firmly in 
 place. The ordinary fish glue which requires to be heated every time 
 it is used is satisfactory for use with wood. Liquid glue such as Le 
 Page's is satisfactory and is much more convenient. Powdered dex- 
 trine mixed with water to the consistency of library paste is most satis- 
 factory for use with leather. Library paste is most satisfactory for 
 use with paper and cloth. Flour paste can be quickly made by add- 
 ing boiling water to flour until the proper consistency is obtained. 
 If this paste is desired to be kept some time, it should be boiled for a 
 little while, and powdered alum added. A few drops of essence of 
 cloves will improve it. 
 
 When possible, have both hands free to hold and guide the tools. 
 Never hold the work in the hand if it can be held some other way, 
 because, with both hands free to work, better technique is folding of 
 possible and less time is required. The vise, bench stop, Work- 
 hand screw, and other such contrivances should be made use of. 
 Common sense and a due amount of care must be exercised in the 
 use of these things, else the work may be spoiled. 
 
 In designing the construction of parts, monotony of proportions 
 and spacing of parts should be avoided. A rectangular room is more 
 pleasing than a square room, because of the variety in c ... 
 width and length. The rail or brace in a chair or table Design of 
 should never be placed so as to divide the spaces evenly ; """ 
 for instance, if it is necessary to fasten a rail or brace to the legs of a 
 table or chair, it should never be put half way between the floor and 
 
xxii MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 the top of the table or the seat, but usually below the middle so that 
 the space above will be wider than the space below the brace. Also, 
 the width of the space should always be either less or more than the 
 width of the brace. This same thought must apply to all lines and 
 especially to the horizontal lines in the making of all pieces of furni- 
 ture. When a finished surface is desired and nails must be used, the 
 brads or thin finishing nails which have small heads should be used. 
 
 All of the pieces of furniture should be made strong enough to 
 stand the hard usage they are bound to receive. In the design of 
 furniture construction all ends which touch the floor should have the 
 corners rounded or chamfered to prevent splitting the edges. All 
 corners should have the sharpness worn off by the use of sandpaper. 
 All parts should be well sandpapered and in some cases stained before 
 assembling. If the wood is to be shellacked or stained, care must be 
 taken that all roughness and marks are sandpapered out. The furni- 
 ture of each room should harmonize in design and finish. It is well 
 to stain all the pieces at one time, or at least use the same stain for all 
 the pieces of a room. 
 
 Pieces should be sandpapered before assembling, and it is some- 
 times best to color them before assembling. Sandpapering should be 
 done with a block and always with the grain, else it will show scratches. 
 . When finishing, stains and dyes are more satisfactory 
 
 to apply and handle than paint, since the stains can 
 be applied, rubbed over, and waxed without waiting for anything to 
 dry, while the oil paint takes two or three days to dry thoroughly. 
 Oil stains of any color can be readily made by thinning the oil paint 
 with turpentine or by mixing the dry paint pigment in turpentine. 
 Any shade of brown stain can be made by thinning black asphaltum 
 varnish with turpentine. If a dull black is desired, use dead black 
 "Japalac." The oil stain cannot be made intense in color as it does 
 not penetrate the wood deeply. The dyes and water stains overcome 
 this objection. They, however, raise the grain of wood and thus 
 make the surface rough. This requires it to be sandpapered. A thin 
 coat of white shellac over the stained surface will prevent the color 
 of the stain from drying out. Water colors and inks are desirable 
 
SUGGESTIONS ABOUT CONSTRUCTION AND TOOLS xxiii 
 
 where small surfaces are to be covered, such as when used for facial 
 expressions. Good bright colors should be used freely, as they add 
 much interest to the use of the things made. If paints must be used, 
 the enamel paints are most easily handled because they dry quickly. 
 If the natural color of the wood is desired, white shellac is most con- 
 venient to use because it dries very quickly, provided the shellac is ap- 
 plied in thin coats. The ordinary varnish requires several days to 
 dry thoroughly. An outside varnish should be used if the object is 
 to be exposed to dampness or to the weather. For this purpose, spar 
 or copal varnish is best. 
 
 Since there are so many books already published on the technique 
 of woodwork, no regular discussion in processes and the use of tools 
 is here intended. For the upper grammar grade, a forge, Machine 
 wood lathe, small machine lathe, and bench drill will Tools - 
 prove to be a great advantage in giving the boys an acquaintance with 
 a number of tool processes that are very desirable, besides making 
 possible a greater range of problems. 
 
 At home, every boy should have his own bench. It can be fitted 
 up with an iron vise screw costing about 50 cents. With 
 a few boards, any ingenious boy can fit a bench up for Home Bench - 
 himself. In working, care should be taken that the top surface of the 
 bench is not sawed into or cut. To prevent this, a cutting board and 
 a bench hook should always be at hand. 
 
 Every boy should have a few tools at home; such as a knife, 
 ruler, gauge, saw, try-square, chisel, plane, and hammer. Measure- 
 ments should always be laid off with the ruler held upon care in the 
 its edge. In laying off dimensions and in drawing lines, Use of Tools - 
 accuracy is highly important. A word of caution regarding the use 
 of the plane is, \eep the cutter set so as to cut a thin shaving when true- 
 ing up surfaces. On each piece of wood, secure a perfect working 
 edge and end ; and in laying out, always measure from them or from 
 a center line. In surfacing the end grain of wood, plane from the 
 edge, but never to the very edge, else it will split. To avoid splitting 
 when using the auger bit, always set the work to be bored upon a flat 
 surface of soft wood, or as soon as the point of the spur projects, turn 
 and bore from the opposite side. 
 
XXIV 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 The use of the coping saw is a great advantage with thin wood. 
 In laying out the work to be sawed, be careful to avoid short-grain 
 construction. Where possible, always have the grain of projecting 
 parts run lengthwise so that they will not easily break off. In 
 putting a blade in the coping saw frame, set the teeth so that they 
 point toward the handle. The cutting is done on the downward 
 stroke. The sawing is best done on a V-shaped block fastened in the 
 vise or to the top of a bench or table. The work should rest flat on 
 this block. The saw should have free play up and down about two 
 strokes per second. If the work is not held down firmly, the saw 
 blade will be bent or twisted and this will cause it to break. When 
 turning a corner keep the saw going up and down at a good rate of 
 speed at the corner to be turned, and at the same time slowly turn 
 the work around into the desired position. Of course, the saw must 
 be kept at right angles to the work at all times. 
 
 Never use dull tools. With the use of oil and an oil stone a true 
 mechanic and craftsman always keeps tools in working condition. 
 Lastly, I would say that the three essentials for satisfactory work are 
 common sense, carefulness, and accuracy. 
 
 Fencing. Fencing Rods, Work of Seventh Grade Class, 
 
 Durham, N. C. 
 
 (.Photograph by Author) 
 
Correlation of Nature-study and Manual Training. Pittsburgh Vacation Schools, Pittsburgh, Pa. 
 
 (.Photograph by Author) 
 
 Garden Tools Made and Used in One of the Pittsburgh Vacation Schools 
 (Kindness of Mr. J. Thompson) 
 
MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY 
 
 PROBLEMS 
 
 CONSTRUCTIVE WORK FOR BOYS AND GIRLS BASED 
 
 ON THE PLAY INTEREST 
 
MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 H aH 
 
 
 
 
 H°H 
 
 ^^r * ^8 
 
 
 ft 
 
 J? 9 
 
 
 
 :-,^J f^ f * 
 
 5j .«_** 
 
 
 .j v 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 TOPS. Tops may range from the crude primitive ones used by 
 the Indians, to the wonderful gyroscope. The usual methods of spin- 
 ning the simpler ones are by means of the thumb and finger, the palms 
 of the hands, and the whip cord. Fig. 1 represents the simplest 
 kind of a top made from an empty spool. Fit a dowel tightly into 
 the hole at the center of the spool, cut the inside bevel down to the 
 center, and the top will be ready for service. A round-headed tack 
 or escutcheon pin may be used at the point for a plug. If it is desired 
 to use a cord with this top, make a holder for it as suggested in Fig. 2. 
 Bore a small hole in the middle of the stem to insert the end of the 
 cord. This will catch the end of the cord and prevent it from slipping 
 around the stem when beginning to wind the top. Wrap the cord 
 with the holder in position on the stem of the top. To spin the top, 
 place it in position and with one hand grasping the holder pull the 
 cord, after which slip the holder off the stem. 
 
 Many interesting variations can be worked out. An outline profile 
 made of wire can be made as suggested in Fig. 4. The straight end 
 of this wire can be slipped into a hole bored into the end of the stem. 
 The rapid movement of the top will give to it an oddly interesting 
 appearance. Studies in color combination can be made by placing 
 colored papers on the upper surface of the disc. See Figs. 1 and 3. 
 Tops made of sheet metal can be made to produce a variety of humming 
 sounds by means of openings cut into the surface of the metal. With 
 the wooden top this humming is possible to a very limited extent only. 
 
TOPS 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 TOPS 
 
 scale: 
 
 • i ' [ ' i ■ I ■ i ■ 1 1 1 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 fig.* 
 
 HOLDER 
 
 WITH WHICH 
 TO USE CORD 
 
 SIDEVIEW FfWrtTVIEW 
 
 i I i 
 
 ■oltO 
 
 ) — VX--X 
 
 Lzr~ij±:==^. 
 
 STOCK TOR SPOOL TOP 
 
 I SPOOL I DOWEL TO FIT 
 
 FIG. 4 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I TOP 
 
 7a."XV«i"X4/«," "ol« 
 
 I DOWEL 
 3//6"DIAM.X4W 
 
 BOTTOM END 
 
 SIDE! VIEW 
 
 TO SPIN 
 TWIRL BETWEEN 
 THE PALMS OF 
 
 THEL HANDS 
 
 FIG. 3 
 
 TO HAKE COLOR DISC N 
 PASTE On DIVISIONS OF 
 COLOREP PAPERS 
 
 E5CUKHE0NPI 
 
 HOLE MUST BE 
 BORED IfiUE'W 
 CENTER AHD ftT 
 RIGHT ANGLES 
 TO 015C 
 
 STOCK FOR DISC TOP 
 
 I DISC l?& y^¥a"Xlf&' 
 I DOWEL 3/fe"0l/\f1X3/i" 
 
 FIG. 6 
 
 flLEOFF^ 
 
 METHOD OF USING SCREW 
 FOR PLUG Id TURNED TOP 
 
 Fig. 5 looks like a butterfly (page 7) ; but, when twirled between the 
 palms of the hands, drops to the floor and spins in an upright position. 
 
 The ordinary peg top must be turned on a lathe. A screw is used 
 for the plug, and the head filed off. See Fig. 6. 
 
MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 CIGAR-BOX FURNITURE. See page xxi for general sugges- 
 tions on furniture construction. 
 
 There are innumerable possibilities in furniture made of cigar 
 boxes. The top of the table shown in Fig. 1 is made from one half 
 of a cigar box sawed in two lengthwise. The four corners of the 
 remaining half of the box are used for the legs. If a table with a pro- 
 jecting top is desired, the lid of a box somewhat large can be nailed 
 on top of this as shown by the table in the top row of the above 
 photograph. 
 
 The davenport as shown in Fig. 2 is made by sawing a box in halves 
 lengthwise and fastening the two halves together with the edge sur- 
 faces facing each other. 
 
 The rocker cradle as suggested in Fig. 3 is simply made by fasten- 
 ing on end pieces cut to the rocker shape. If desired, the rockers 
 can be made to fit around the box and fastened underneath. 
 
 The washstand as shown in Fig. 4 is a type of pieces suitable for 
 bedroom furniture, wherein the box is taken whole and additional 
 pieces such as top or uprights fastened on. A few of such pieces can 
 be seen in the photograph. With little modifications most of the dif- 
 ferent pieces of furniture, as well as innumerable other problems, can 
 be made from cigar boxes of various sizes. 
 
 In the photograph on the lower row, the paper is shown left on 
 the boxes. If the pieces are not to be painted, the paper should be 
 scraped off after the cutting is finished. This wood splits easily even 
 
CIGAR-BOX FURNITURE 
 
 3 
 o 
 
 U 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 U- 
 
 UJ 
 flEZ 
 
 X 
 
 o 
 
 CO 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 (J 
 
 N 
 cO 
 
 UJ 
 
 Id 
 
 z: 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 V 
 
 r- 
 
 1 
 
 1 ! 
 
 Id 
 
 < +1 
 
 i B I 
 
 ;.' ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 "- 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 U 
 
 > 
 
 r 
 o 
 
 EC 
 
 
 
 
 c 
 
 Hi 
 
 IT 
 I— 
 
 ^ i 
 
 (J DC 
 
 u 
 
 Og 
 
 P 
 
 o 
 
 a 
 
 Id 
 
 r 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 <0 
 
 TIT. 
 I 
 
 03 
 
 5 
 
 id 
 
 > 
 
 a. 
 O 
 
 Lrrr^__, L-_-->. 
 
 
 ^?"<?^e 
 
 L 3 
 
 o 
 c 
 
 «S3 Life 
 
 ^ 1l.cS. 
 
 o ^ a. a^ 
 
 TT" 
 
 to 
 
 [ 
 
 -* -* 
 
 QJ 
 _J 
 < 
 O 
 CO 
 
 T 
 
 
 -^ 
 
 — f 
 
 
 
 
 
 c_ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 = 1 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 i — 
 
 
 vs*la 
 
 
 r> 
 
 5 
 
 y 
 
 7 * 
 
 
 
 Id s*-* 
 
 _ 
 
 
 > 
 
 tflSfe 1 
 
 6 
 
 
 id 
 
 £5 §# 
 
 u. 
 
 
 CO 
 
 CD 
 
 UJ <J3 
 
 ZT UJ 
 
 
 f— 
 
 
 o _| 
 
 
 r 
 
 
 
 > 
 
 a 
 r 
 y 
 
 y 
 
 z: 
 o 
 or 
 
 y 
 
 -'^ 
 
 X.* 
 
 UJ V"*"*? 
 
 o 9 
 
 o I— 
 
 (0 
 
 when worked with the coping saw. The paper strengthens it con- 
 siderably. For this reason it is well to do all cutting first. When 
 dampened the paper can readily be scraped off. If the box is to be 
 painted or varnished, let it dry before applying. 
 
MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 BUTTERFLY AND WHIRLIGIG. The top or wings of these 
 problems may be made of wood, cardboard, heavy tin, or thin sheet 
 iron. The most successful flyers have been made single as shown in 
 Fig. 1 , but with a cross-lap joint they may be made double as shown in 
 Fig. 1 of the windmills on page 35. One of the essential elements of 
 the butterfly is its lightness. The wings made double afford an excel- 
 lent problem in a cross-lap joint of wood, but the necessary wood 
 required in lapping the joint is apt to make it rather heavy. If made 
 of tin or sheet iron, the two pieces should be crossed and fastened 
 together before piercing the hole through the center and fastening 
 with a small nail to the end of the dowel. 
 
 Fig. 2 and the photograph give the necessary information for mak- 
 ing the whirligig. The whirligigs shown in the above photograph have 
 been flown over the top of the schoolhouse three stories high. This 
 may be made, also, with double wings, as already suggested. On 
 account of the power possible to be obtained from the string and 
 spool, the added weight of the cross-lap joint is less objectionable. A 
 small piece of wood f " square can be rounded up for the handle and 
 a round rod or dowel slightly smaller than the hole in the spool should 
 be inserted into one end. Drive small nails into the projecting end 
 of this dowel and into the spool and cut the heads off. Make holes 
 in the top piece to fit over these nails large enough to allow it to slip 
 off easily. Notice that the ends of the top pieces are bent or beveled 
 in opposite directions to each other. For the top or wing to fly off 
 
BUTTERFLY AND WHIRLIGIG 
 
 BUTTERFLY 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 END VIEW 
 
 ' < \ NH 
 
 A VERY SUCCESSFUL 
 
 flyer when naon 
 
 OFA LIGHT WOOP 
 
 WITH A QUICK TWlfiL. 
 OF THE ROD BETWEEN 
 THE PALMS OF THE HMD5 
 SErtD IT UPWARDS 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 10 
 
 L|J_i 
 
 WHIRLIGIG 
 
 "T 
 
 SIDE. VIEW 
 
 STOCK „ 
 
 IDOWEL^'ROurfDXS)! 
 IT0P_7/g"x %"x .S" 
 
 V 
 
 
 ' /-■ 
 
 RED 
 
 WHITE 
 
 SLUE 
 
 1 \ 
 
 OFWQOO, Titter 
 CARDBOARD 
 
 V^-^T 5 -'-''''' 
 
 v— FILE HEflJJS 
 A OFF B!V\D& 
 
 fe^ 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I HANDLE. _ 3i'K0UllP x 6" 
 
 I SMALL SPOOL. 
 
 I ROD 5IZ.E OF MOLE 111 SPOOL. 
 
 i top i&" x X" x. e>" 
 
 _£3L 
 
 when the string is pulled, it must be wound so that the action of the 
 air will force it upward. Alternating stripes of color applied to the 
 top piece add much to the attractiveness of the flyers. Flying contests 
 create interest in the use of various materials and in good construction. 
 
8 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 RING TOSS GAMES. The object of this game is to toss the ring 
 in the air and catch it on a hook fastened to the end of a stick. The 
 simplest form is shown in Fig. 1 . Use a large-sized screw, hook, and 
 cord about two feet long. Make the ring of wire, reed, raffia, card- 
 board, or heavy cord. For rounding the handle see pages 60 and 61. 
 
 Other interesting arrangements involve forms which can be sawed 
 out with the coping saw, such as those shown in the photograph. 
 The wire used for the ring should be about |" in diameter. Color- 
 ing adds much to the interest of such figures. If the lathe is avail- 
 able, this game might be worked into a cup and ball arrangement, 
 the ball taking the place of the ring, the object being to catch the ball 
 in the cup ; or a small net might be fastened to the end of a stick, the 
 object being to catch the ball in the net. Fig. 3 has been suggested 
 by Henry Turner Bailey. Here is his description of how a boy of his 
 acquaintance .made one : ' He had taken a barrel head and nailed 
 cleats across to hold the pieces together. He had covered the smooth 
 side with a piece of brown paper on which he had drawn a six-pointed 
 star, using a string, he told me, to get it right. Into this star at the 
 center and at the angles he had driven long, slim wire nails ; and with 
 a pair of pliers he had bent up each head-end at right angles with the 
 rest of the nail, making hooks like L's driven head first into the board. 
 Under the center nail he had printed 100. The others were numbered 
 as you see in the sketch. This circular board was hung on the outside 
 wall of the house. We stood about 10 feet away and pitched rings 
 
RING TOSS GAMES 
 
 r*i 
 
 D 
 
 T 
 
 RING TOSS 
 
 io- 
 
 A. 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 " -, . " 
 
 STOCK I HANDLE! % Ysfe M4-/1 
 
 -(00 
 
 A4 
 
 st — — 
 
 STOCK I HEAD 4-"\!/2."yil%." 
 
 SCALfl 
 
 1 1 ■ 1 1 1 ■ | ' i > | ■ i ■ j m I'M 
 
 5 (C," Zi 
 
 STOCK I 6AP\f\HL HEAD " I CLEATS 
 fia : _____ 
 
 at it to see how much we could make. What sort of rings do you sup- 
 pose? Rubber rings ! Rings from off his mother's preserve jars." x 
 
 (Note: The above scale has been reduced one-tenth of the original.) 
 1 School-Arts Book, January, 1908, p. 439. 
 
10 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 BUZZER — PRIMITIVE DRILL. Every boy is familiar with the 
 buzzer. In the school workshop it can be made the first lesson in 
 whittling. Fig. 1 is a disc of wood or metal in the center of which 
 are punched two holes into which a cord is slipped. Fig. 2 is a simi- 
 lar arrangement in which a rectangular strip of wood is used for the 
 disc. *A color disc can be made by pasting colors on the sides ; for 
 instance, semicircles of blue and yellow when put in motion will pro- 
 duce green. An irregular edge on the disc or holes pierced in the 
 disc near the outer rim will produce whistling sounds. 
 
 Fig. 3 is an Indian string drill. A rod is fitted securely into one 
 end of a round disc. This disc, when set in motion, is the balance 
 wheel which supplies the necessary momentum to the drill. Into the 
 center of the end of the rod is fastened a drill point which can be made 
 of a piece of steel wire, a hat pin, or nail. A hole slightly larger than 
 the diameter of the rod is bored into the center of the horizontal strip. 
 
 To string the drill, bore holes at each end of the horizontal strip. 
 Then slip the cord through the hole in the rod and fasten the ends 
 of the cord to the ends of the horizontal strip as shown in Fig. 3. 
 In the photograph it will be noticed that nails are used to fasten the 
 cord. The holes have been found to be more satisfactory. 
 
 To work the drill, place it in position and set it going by spinning 
 the disc with the hand. This will twist or wind up the cord around 
 the rod. As soon as it is wound up, press down firmly on the horizontal 
 strip, pressing down as soon as wound up, which will cause it to un- 
 
BUZZER — PRIMITIVE DRILL 
 
 11 
 
 BUZZER- DRILL 
 
 EDGE VIEW FIG. I 
 
 STOCK I DISC_d"DIAI v lXK6 
 
 
 
 
 
 FIG. 2. 
 
 
 / 
 
 
 
 
 
 "CO 
 
 * 
 
 o 
 
 O SIDE VIEW 
 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 r* — 
 
 
 
 -4-- , * 
 
 t 
 
 EOGE VIEW 
 
 STOCK l D I SC 3/4" X /a" A 4" 
 
 SCALE 
 
 STOCK FOR DRILL 
 I STR I RJH" * %-" * '0" 
 
 I DISC 3"DIAM /n^." 
 
 I ftOD H"DiAn X 7" 
 
 SIDE. VIEW 
 
 JXL 
 
 wind and spin in the opposite direction. As soon as it is unwound, 
 relieve the pressure on the horizontal piece and the momentum of the 
 disc will cause it to wind itself up again. By thus repeatedly press- 
 ing and relieving the pressure, the drill is kept continuously in motion. 
 
12 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 GARDEN SIGN — TRELLIS - - STICK — LABEL. The garden 
 signs are very convenient for indicating the numbers or owners of the 
 garden plots. The sign board or crosspiece should be painted or labeled 
 before fastening it to the upright. A thin coating of white shellac 
 
 or filler should be applied to the 
 sign board before painting on the 
 letters to prevent the paint from 
 running. If the sign is to be perma- 
 nent, to withstand the weather from 
 year to year, a coat of spar varnish 
 should be applied after the lettering 
 has dried thoroughly. 
 
 The upright of the trellis (Fig. 
 2) should be made of perfectly 
 straight grained wood. Divide the 
 1^" width into four equal parts by 
 gauging the lines apart. Saw on 
 these lines within 6" of the end. 
 Spread the strips thus made, and 
 hold them apart with a crosspiece as 
 suggested in the drawing. Any 
 number of strips as desired can be 
 thus made. 
 
 The kind of trellis suggested in 
 Fig. 3 and the photograph can be 
 made with one or more uprights 
 and any number of crosspieces. At 
 least two nails should be put in 
 each joint and these should be 
 
 firmly clinched. In each case the crosspiece should project somewhat 
 beyond the uprights. . 
 
 The plant stick should be made long and heavy enough to suit 
 the intended use. There should be one or more notches at the top 
 end to hold the string in position. The problem as suggested admits 
 of quite a number of elementary tool exercises. 
 
GARDEN SIGN — TRELLIS — STICK — LABEL 
 
 13 
 
 GARDEN SIGN -TRELLIS -STICK- LABEL 
 
 end 
 
 VIEW 
 
 FRONT VIEW 
 
 FRQMT VIEW 
 
 ErtD 
 VIEW 
 
 II 
 
 J± 
 
 n 
 
 !' I 
 
 
 H^ 
 
 ffif 
 
 14- 
 
 FIG. 
 
 *o 
 
 FRONT VIEW 
 
 4 
 
 j. V 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I UPRIGHT I UPRIGHT 
 
 _ I %1' X !/£.". X 3 6" I *i" X;t"X 2.4-" 
 
 ICR03SPIECE. r CROSSPIKE 
 4-" X. H" X 14" y+ X'4''A 16" 
 
 ~H 
 
 FIG. 3 
 V__i 
 
 5T0CK 
 
 I UPRIGHT _*A" X H" X Z4" 
 
 i cr v oss piece _•%." x &." xo^" 
 
 I CROSS PI ECE_^" X '/&" X // " 
 I CROSS PI ECE_-$4" X >£" X 8/£" 
 I CROSS PIECE _W X >i" X 6" 
 
 END VIEW 
 
 SIDE. VIEW 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 fed 
 
 |*£| g^Mc i'i4 
 
 FIG.4- 
 
 M4J 
 
 "18- 
 
 ~vr 
 
 FIS. 5 
 
 view 
 
 STOCh\ 
 I STICK —>/%." X K2." X 18" 
 
 <C3> 
 
 STOCK 
 I LABE.U_-H"X^. X 6" 
 
 The name of the plant can be printed on one side or on both sides. 
 The seed or plant label suggested in Fig. 5 is a suitable problem 
 for beginning knife work. If made longer and notched at the top end, 
 it can be used as a plant stick also. 
 
14 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 KALEIDOSCOPES. A very simple form of kaleidoscope is shown 
 in Fig. 1 . Long narrow panels of glass should be used, as length multi- 
 plies the reflections and thus produces a more effective kaleidoscope. 
 Mirror glass is best, but ordinary window glass will do. Tie them 
 into a triangular shape as shown by the second figure in the photo- 
 graph. Next cover the outside of the glass triangle with a dark cover 
 paper. Seal one end up with tracing cloth or a tough tracing paper. 
 Stand on end with the open end at the top and drop in bits of colored 
 glass, or other particles. Lastly, paste a piece of opaque paper over 
 the open end and punch or cut out a little peep hole. Hold so that 
 light will penetrate from below through the tracing cloth or paper. 
 
 Fig. 2 has a revolving end, as shown in the photograph. Select 
 a long tin can and punch a small opening in the bottom for a peep 
 hole. Cut glass to fit inside the can. To improve the reflecting 
 power of the common window glass, blacken with smoke or paint 
 on one side. To hold the glass in place, wedge a cork back of the 
 strips of glass. Cut a large opening into the end of the lid of the can 
 and cover this opening with a disc of glass or tracing cloth. The frosted 
 glass for this is most desirable. The frosted effect can be produced 
 by rubbing on a paste made of whiting. Fasten this disc securely in 
 the lid. On this glass drop bits of colored particles. Now put the 
 lid in place on the can and turn it upside down. By revolving the lid 
 with the can stationary, an ever changing panoramic effect is produced. 
 
 Fig. 3 is a "duplicator." It is much used by designers. To con- 
 
KALEIDOSCOPES 
 
 15 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 GLASS 
 
 \0 
 
 .-OPAQUE. PAPER 
 
 SIOEL 
 
 VIEW 
 
 60TTOM VIEW 
 
 KALEIDOSCOPES 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I SIDE PAPER sfc'K 6" 
 
 I OSD PAPER 4-" X 4-" 
 
 I EMI} CLOTH 4-" X 4-" 
 
 3 GLASS STFUPS_I%' * 6" 
 SMALL BITS OF COLORED 61465 
 
 SCALE 
 
 T^T 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I LONG ROUND CAN WITH LID 
 , 3 GLASS STRIPS TO FIT CAM 
 I GLftSS DISC TO FIT LID 
 SHALL BITS OF GLASS 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 STOCK FOR DUPLICATOR 
 2. GLASS 5TRIPS_3"X 5" 
 
 I CLOTH HINGE. 
 
 JS2L 
 
 .1 " x 5" 
 
 FIG. 2 top view 
 
 SIDE 
 
 VIEW 
 
 4- 
 
 ! -BITS 0F|6LAS8 , 
 
 - -jj-i-s.a--^.taa.d- 
 
 VIE.W 
 
 struct, fasten two pieces of mirror glass together with a piece of 
 gummed cloth or tape. To use, set it on end with the two mirrored 
 surfaces at right angles placed around the design to be used. With 
 this double mirror a design can be made to multiply itself four times. 
 
16 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 BEAN BAG GAMES. For bean bag games, hoops of various 
 sizes can be fastened together, one within the other in concentric 
 circles ; or boxes of various sizes can be fastened one within the other. 
 In such an arrangement the throw which places the bag in the smallest 
 or middle hoop or box receives the highest count. 
 
 Animal and human figures add considerable interest to the game, 
 such as : the figures of persons holding in their outstretched hands 
 discs, squares, or objects represented by openings ; or the eyes, nose, 
 and mouth cut out of a board as suggested in Fig. 1 . 
 
 To make the board suggested in Fig. 1 , select two pieces the proper 
 length and half the required width. Fasten the two pieces together 
 with two brads or a handscrew so that it is possible to cut out both 
 sides by sawing through the two thicknesses at the same time. Cut 
 the openings, and trim to the outline. Take the two pieces apart 
 and fasten in position with three battens, one between the nose and 
 the mouth to strengthen this part which otherwise would break off. 
 To hold the board in an upright position, a rest or leg can be 
 attached to the back by means of a strip of leather or cloth used as 
 a hinge ; or a nail or wire can be used as a pivot as shown in Fig. 1 . 
 
 In the lower row in the photograph is seen a box in which is a 
 wire fastened lengthwise. One or more wooden figures are put on 
 this wire so as to revolve upon the wire. The object of the game is 
 to strike one of the figures and thus make it revolve. Another arrange- 
 ment shown in the lower right-hand corner of the photograph is a box 
 
BEAN BAG GAMES 
 
 17 
 
 BEAH DAG GAMES 
 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I LEG 
 
 I x/T *3# 
 
 Z PIECES _4^" / v /l" X Ml" 3 BATTE-NSJ " X 54," X B&" 
 
 -SCALE. 
 
 FIG.Z 
 
 i ' | ' i ' | ' i ' | ' i ■ 
 +" ! 
 
 FIG. 3 
 
 TOPVIE.W 
 
 TOP VtCW 
 
 I 
 
 X 
 
 
 
 T 
 
 
 
 
 
 P 
 
 
 
 \*-i]$*\ U-^f 
 
 -'i^ 
 
 PIVOT 
 
 j hinge; 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 I 
 
 fir 
 
 1 TT 1 
 
 I 
 
 
 STOCK- One: CIGAR BOX 5'X3\9" 
 
 STOCK _ ONE C'IGM BOX. ABOUT 5"^3"X9" 
 
 fla 
 
 with a sliding cover. By means of this sliding cover the opening can 
 be made any size desired. 
 
 The bean bags should suit the openings. The ones shown in the 
 top row of the photograph were made 1" square, to use with Fig. 1. 
 
18 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 CHAIRS. See page xxi for general suggestions on furniture 
 construction. The type of work herein suggested, if properly made, 
 will stand much rough usage. The seat part should be fairly thick 
 and requires careful work in boring. The holes should be bored 
 until the point of the bit begins to come through. The ends of the 
 pieces that fit into the wood should not be tapered, but should be 
 trimmed round so as to make a perfectly snug fit. They should be 
 fastened in place with glue and brads. For the backs and the legs 
 of the chairs, scraps of trimmings can be used. If a rustic effect is 
 desired, use twigs of wood with the bark on. The holes for the legs 
 should be bored so that the legs will slant outward in both directions. 
 The ends of the legs should be slightly rounded or chamfered so that 
 the edges will not split when pushed across the floor. The back strips 
 of the chair such as in Fig. 1 should be fastened together with two nails 
 in each cross-lap joint. Use nails in these joints long enough so that 
 the ends can be turned and clinched firmly. 
 
 This type of construction can be used in many other pieces of doll 
 furniture such as tables, taborets, and beds. By making the seat 
 longer, a divan such as is shown in Fig. 2 can be made. By leaving 
 off the back, a stool can be made such as shown above. If a table is 
 desired, it must be made proportionately larger. Make it the desired 
 width and length, and 5" high instead of 3". It must be borne in 
 mind that this type of construction cannot be applied to the larger 
 size pieces of furniture, because it is not practicable to have the seat 
 
CHAIRS 
 
 19 
 
 or 
 o 
 CO 
 
 _i 
 _J 
 o 
 a 
 
 VsJ 
 
 o 
 .1- 
 
 O 
 
 CO 
 
 r 
 o 
 
 N 
 
 tO 
 
 id 
 lx_ 
 
 I 
 
 e 
 
 CO 
 
 zr 
 
 o 
 
 to 
 
 UJ 
 
 O 
 o 
 
 Z> 
 
 o 
 
 uJ 
 
 co 
 
 ZD 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i - 
 
 W X > 
 
 sr '"">/'\ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 V - y 
 
 =c ^_^ s — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 "►./» 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 s- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 II ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 J<0 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 oJ r 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 > Q 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 UP 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Id U 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 oj^ 
 
 
 
 ->f 
 
 
 j 
 
 5 
 
 1- 5: 
 
 ° T- 
 
 TT 
 
 
 
 
 
 > 
 
 er a3 
 
 OS 
 
 \Z 
 
 
 o 
 
 < 
 
 ,--3 
 
 o 
 
 I 
 
 _l or 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 
 
 L 
 
 
 'V. / 
 
 V-' S_^ 1 
 
 ' 
 
 
 jk 
 
 +. 
 = -i« 
 
 
 
 ,€>* 
 
 O 
 
 ro 
 
 |_ o uJ 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 O 
 
 v 
 
 
 
 
 -*r- 
 
 =*- 
 
 o 
 
 or 
 
 uj§ 
 
 go 
 
 Si 
 
 ihi 
 3 
 
 * x X X X 
 
 l_ : -£J » ^ ; -^ = -o2 
 r 10 s - o 1^ rn^ f<J^ 
 
 *: 
 
 o 
 
 L. 
 
 o 
 Id ■_; 
 
 id. 
 
 §^ 
 J5h 
 
 j»iij^lsfsi 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 I— 
 
 CO 
 
 (^ 
 
 j J 
 or 
 
 (-' «5 O C 5 
 
 UJ UJ 6- fc I 
 
 CO -< 3 3 J 
 
 — 4- co — — 
 
 proportionately as thick ; and a more thorough bracing is needed 
 because of the greater strain proportionately made upon the larger 
 pieces of furniture. And, too, it must be remembered that the chil- 
 dren demand things made quickly, else they will lose interest. 
 
20 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 RUNNING WHEELS. Many ingenious lever and eccentric types 
 of running wheel can be constructed, a few of which are illustrated 
 in Figs. 2 and 3 of the opposite drawing, and also the drawing on 
 page 25. With these problems opportunity is given for the study of 
 mechanics of the lever and eccentric. The long-armed Goo-goo jacks 
 afford an interest to the younger children which is very desirable to 
 the manual training teacher. 
 
 If coping saws are not available, the figures can be cut out of 
 cardboard and glued or tacked on, as suggested in Fig. 2. If cut out 
 of wood by means of coping saws, definite limitations of size and shape 
 are necessary so as to obtain good proportion and to avoid short grain. 
 Boys can work out their own individual modifications of the figures. 
 These are best cut out of paper with scissors first and then traced 
 around on the wood. If time is limited, the teacher can work a few 
 forms out of heavy paper or thin wood and allow the pupils to use 
 them as templates. 
 
 The simplest running wheel is made of a round disc of wood or 
 metal for the wheel with a broom stick for a handle. A groove is 
 sawed in the end of the stick, as shown in Fig. 1 . 
 
 For the arm to revolve properly, the distance between the pivots 
 on the body must always be somewhat greater than the distance 
 between the pivots on the wheel. In making the holes for the pivots 
 bore with a small drill or drive the nail in very carefully, else the thin 
 wood will split. For further directions for this work, see page xix. 
 
RUNNING WHEELS 
 
 21 
 
 RUNNING WHEELS 
 
 LJ^TIC 
 
 WHEEL. ||K-L0Oaei(^IT "1 | 
 
 PtlAILOR SMALL 60LT OR 5Cft£W TOP VI ELW 
 
 BROOM HANDLE. OR SQUARE! STlCIS 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 SIDELVIEW 
 STOCIS I HAM()LE_I"\ l"X36" IWHEEL_6"DIAr\.Xi4" 
 
 WK VIEW 
 
 STOCK. I AR,M_34"XJ4"X/3" I W/1EO__5/i"0/AM.X&" lf00T_^"XJ4"XI/i" 
 
 I LEG_54"A/*."X6" I BODY-i" X 'A- "X 7" I STICK_/" X '/z."X36" I T/N—l" X 3 '/i" 
 
 J»L 
 
 The sliding leg, as in Fig. 3, must not be fastened close up against 
 the edge of the stick, but a space of y^ M or more must be allowed. 
 
 For further directions as to construction of running wheels, see 
 Running Wheels, pages 24 and 25. 
 
22 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 PISTOL AND SLING SHOT. Fig. 1 is made by taking three 
 thin pieces of wood about 3^" thick, the desired length and width. 
 Fasten them together by means of a brad at each end. After sawing 
 the outline, take the pieces apart and saw a part out of the middle 
 section so that, when the pieces are put together again, a groove is 
 left in the barrel and a slot is formed so that the trigger can be set in 
 position. The side view of Fig. 1 shows the trigger in position. It 
 should be very slightly thinner than the thickness of the middle sec- 
 tion, but not free enough to drop down loosely. After the pieces are 
 fastened together, the trigger should be pivoted in place with a nail. 
 
 The rubber band is fastened to the end of the barrel by means of 
 a brad which is bent over far enough to lock the rubber band in place. 
 To cock the pistol, pull the rubber band back so that it is held by the 
 notch just above the trigger. 
 
 If the stock and barrel are to be made of one piece instead of three, 
 the slot for the trigger must be cut out with an auger bit and chisel. 
 The groove of the barrel should be cut out half-round or square. 
 
 Fig. 3 is a trigger in which two rubber bands are used, as shown 
 in the upper figure of the photograph. Take care that the upper 
 end of the trigger does not project up too high, else the rubber will 
 lie too close to the top of the barrel. 
 
 The shaft or arrow (Fig. 2) should be made to fit in the groove of 
 the barrel. The rear end should be slit and a paper rudder inserted. 
 The forward end should be weighted slightly. A small brad driven 
 
PISTOL AND SLING SHOT 
 
 23 
 
 . 
 
 PISTOL - SLING-SHOT 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 FIG. 3 
 
 TRIGGER •%"*%"* 2A" 
 
 \ WO\ \ 
 
 FIG X 
 
 IfZ© 
 
 / PW8F-H/ 
 
 SHAfl 3/ft"DIAri X W 
 
 X 
 
 S1U6BE.P, &«MD 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I WIRE ^."DIAN. \ 10 
 
 OR 
 I CROTCH OF BRANCH 5" 
 I RUBBER BAISD-Kx." X\ 5" 
 I LEATHER -3/4." /n X." 
 
 SCALE 
 
 FROMT 
 VIEW 
 
 O 
 
 into the end will enable the arrow to stick into the target. To pre- 
 vent the end from splitting, wrap with fine wire. The wire and brad 
 will be enough weight for it to carry itself head foremost. The rear 
 end must be notched slightly to catch the rubber band. 
 
24 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 RUNNING WHEELS. Figs. 1 and 2 are long-armed Goo-goo 
 jacks that continuously turn around the wheel as it runs along the 
 ground. In Fig. 1 the leg which is made in one piece can be fastened 
 to the stick, or it can be pivoted at the foot and a block fastened to the 
 stick to keep it from falling. In Fig. 2 the jack sits on top of the stick. 
 If a simpler construction is desired, the body can be made as wide as 
 the stick ; and in this case the leg can be made in one piece. In the 
 drawing the leg is made of two pieces which pivot at the knee. A 
 washer is also needed at the shoulder so as to bring the arm on a line 
 with the outside of the wheel. 
 
 Two pivots are always necessary on the body, one at the hip and 
 one at the shoulder. The distance between these two pivots must 
 be somewhat greater than the distance between the axis of the wheel 
 and the pivot of the eccentric. 
 
 In fastening together it is well to have the parts in position, as 
 shown in the drawing. Note that when the stick is in a horizontal 
 position the pivots on both body and wheel are directly above each other. 
 
 For the axis of the wheel a small bolt is very desirable, but a wire 
 or common nail with the end bent over is satisfactory. If a bolt is 
 used, the end of it should be hammered to upset it a little so that the 
 nut will not slip off and get lost. A small metal washer or burr 
 between all joints that pivot is desirable. Grease or wax will also 
 help reduce friction. All the parts that pivot must be slightly larger 
 than the diameter of the wire on which they turn. See page xx. 
 
RUNNING WHEELS 
 
 25 
 
 RUnniMG WHEELS 
 
 5TICK 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 sSD TOP VIEW 
 
 T 
 
 Distance between pivots 
 
 on BODY must BE. 
 GREATER THM ON WHEEL 
 
 J 
 
 STICK 
 
 51 DE VIEW 
 
 STOCK I BODY J 3 A" XM-"X 5>/4' 
 
 I STICK l"X^"X36" I ARM V& " X>V'X9>i" 
 
 I WHcXl 4-WDIAttXV I L£G__/>^." X>4"X6!V 
 
 BACK VIEW 
 
 i/i. " X >A-" X 9>^ " 
 
 STOCK I WHEE.I 4/i"DIAM. x !/z" ^THIGHS__/ " X!4"X-3>i" 
 
 I BODY WX.%"X5"' k CALV£5_3A" X)i"X3^" 
 
 J2L 
 
 Before fastening the parts together, paint with bright colors to 
 add to the attractiveness of the wheel. The ones talented in drawing 
 can paint the facial expressions, or printed designs may be cut from 
 cards or the pages of magazines. 
 
26 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 Trap illustrations by courtesy of U. S. Department of Agriculture. 
 
 TRAPS. The figure-four trap, as shown in Fig. 1 , can be used with 
 a packing box, as shown in the photograph on page 90, or it may be 
 used with a weighted board as a dead fall. If a box is used, fasten on 
 the lid with hinges at one end. This is necessary so that, when the box 
 is lifted from the ground, the animal will not escape. If the trap is 
 for rats or mice, the box selected should be small so that it can be put 
 into an ordinary water bucket. To hold the trap in a set position 
 it is necessary that the weight of the box rest on the top of the catch 
 piece. A slight movement at the bait end of the trigger will cause 
 the set pieces to fall apart and the box will drop with a bang. For the 
 traps for the smaller animals the sticks to make up the Fig. 4 should 
 not be as large as those suggested in the drawing because, if the sticks 
 get caught between the edges of the box and the lid, there will be an 
 opening left large enough for the rodent to escape. 
 
 The traps suggested in Figs. 2 and 3 are made by pivoting the lid 
 so that a slight weight on one side will cause it to tip down quickly. 
 The lid of the barrel should be battened and the edges trimmed off so 
 that it will be small enough to work freely within the top of the barrel. 
 The bait fastened to one side, as suggested, will tempt the rat or 
 mouse, and their weight will make the lid tip, and cause the rodent 
 to be dumped into the barrel. One side of the lid should be slightly 
 heavier than the other, so that the lid will comeback into position. This 
 can be made by fastening a weight under one side, or by pivoting the 
 lid very slightly out of center. A stop must be fastened on one side 
 of the barrel for the lid to set even with the top of the barrel, and 
 one on the side near the pivot to prevent the lid from swinging clear 
 around. 
 
TRAPS 
 
 27 
 
 TRAPS 
 
 STOCK FOR -FIGURE FOUR TRAP 
 
 I TRIGGER y% X H" X8%" 
 
 I UPRIGHT H." * =»/fc" X Sjf 6 " 
 
 J CftTCH 'AT X%" X 5>4.' 
 
 STOCK 
 
 _724" Xx 3^' x IS" 
 _7H"X 3/^" X 6&" 
 _734"X 34" X. 18" 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I BflRRElLOR KELG 
 I BARRELTOP 
 
 2, SIDES 
 
 2. ENDS 
 
 I BOTTOM 
 
 z top (Ends) z 14" x 3 a." x 794" 
 
 l TOP (niDDLEl)_7^8Vx 3 /4" x/34" 
 £ STOPS 3/ 4 " X H" X Jt" 
 
 _ffiL 
 
 The trap suggested in Fig. 3 is large enough to catch rats and small 
 enough to fit into the ordinary water bucket. The cross-section view 
 on the opposite page shows the same construction with a dropping 
 lid on each side of the box. See also Box Traps on page 90. 
 
28 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 BOATS. In making Fig. 1 first shape the bottom piece. Next 
 nail the end pieces to the bottom before shaping their edges to match 
 the curve of the sides. Note that the grain of the wood in the ends 
 runs vertical. This is done so that when put in the water the bottom 
 and end pieces will swell proportionately in width. In fastening on 
 the sides begin at one end and tack to the edge of the bottom piece. 
 Press the side in position and tack down tightly a little at a time until 
 the side piece fits up against the edge of the bottom piece all the way 
 along. Spring and nail the seat into place. This will help to keep 
 the sides in shape. If it is difficult to bend the sides into shape, soak 
 them in hot water or steam them, and they will be more pliable. A 
 small hole can be bored through the middle of the seat and part way 
 into the bottom ; and a small rod put in on which may be fastened 
 a flag or a paper sail. 
 
 In Fig. 2 cut out the back f" or j" wider than the paddle so that 
 it will not strike the boat. One or two pieces can be used for the paddle 
 wheels. If made of two pieces, the middle part must be cut for a 
 cross-lap joint. To hold the paddle wheel in place on the boat, notches 
 are cut to receive the rubber band. Put the rubber band in place, 
 twist by turning the paddle wheel backward ; and it is ready to run. 
 The hub or center of the paddle wheel for Fig. 3 can be made of any 
 circular or octagonal piece. A large spool will do. With a thin saw 
 make the grooves for the sheet metal pieces. The metal must be thick 
 enough to hold in tightly, but not too tight, else it will split. Staples 
 
BOATS 
 
 29 
 
 rap view 
 
 T^ 
 
 BOATS 
 
 STOCK 
 
 j^ _ I BOTTOM _i%"X^"X 7#' 
 
 " i JIM D _ I ^t " xVa"x i^s" 
 
 i eh m" x^'xi^" 
 
 1 5 1 £3_ l % " X ^ " xa#' 
 I SOT: W ?W KV/e" 
 
 FIG. » 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 I 
 —I 
 
 ■y)rfe>''" 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 MIDDLE. S'CCTIjOMED 
 
 ri 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 Of" PADDLE. 
 
 STOCK I BOTTOM- H%" X%" X% S" Z. PADDLES_I K&" X '/&" X 2." I F\UBbER6WI> 
 
 side view 
 
 P^PPIJLS 
 
 
 SfRINO 
 
 -STUNG 
 
 2=3 
 
 HMD VIEW 
 
 3 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I BOTTQ M _ X." X yx" * 7>i" 2. H U 135 _34"X l/i' DIM . 2. BEARING S — J-t" X &"X I " 
 3 PADE>LE6_5HI-xriR0M 3 4."Xl" I AXLE_ 4" X Ka" OlftM I STRIP OP SPRING STEEL. 
 
 should be used to hold the axle in place. This can be made of a wooden 
 dowel or a piece of wire. The hubs must be secured tightly to this 
 axle. A steel spring from a corset will serve for the power. Fasten 
 with a fine cord and wind up into the position as shown in Fig. 3. 
 
30 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 NETS AND INSECT BOTTLES. The net as suggested in Fig. 
 1 is used for catching all kinds of insects. Every boy and girl should 
 have one of his own. By means of it a supply of nature-study material 
 can be readily obtained. No. 1 2 spring brass or steel wire 4 or 5 feet 
 long should be used for the ring. Put the wire around the end of 
 any cylindrical surface about 10" or 12" in diameter, and give it one 
 or two tight twists. A broom stick can be used for the handle, but 
 it has been found to be somewhat heavy. A light wood should be 
 used. 
 
 Several methods of fastening the ends of the wire to the handle 
 are suggested in the drawing. Fig. 4 shows a hole slightly larger 
 than the wire bored through the middle of the handle about 2" from 
 the end. The loose ends of the wire should be about 3" long. Place 
 the ends of the wire alongside of the handle, one on each side, and 
 turn the points into the hole, previously bored, as shown in Fig. 4. 
 To hold this securely in place, put it in the vise, squeeze it tightly 
 enough to force the wires into the surface of the wood, and finally 
 wrap with fine binding wire or cord, as shown in the drawing. The 
 method shown in Fig. 5 is made by twisting the free ends of the wire 
 throughout their entire length, which should be about 2" or 3". Then 
 bore a hole in the center of the end of the handle,- just small enough 
 for the twisted ends of the wires to be forced in. In Fig. 6 two holes 
 slightly smaller than the diameter of the wire are bored into the end 
 of the handle. Into these holes the ends of the wire are forced. This 
 
NETS AND INSECT BOTTLES 
 
 31 
 
 MET5 
 
 EMD VIEW or HflrlDLES. WITHOUT filUS 
 
 dc m 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 OF HflrtDLE. 
 
 FIG.7 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 METHOD OF Ff\5TEP||in& RIMGTOrtftllDLE. 
 
 STOCK TOR IHSCCT MET 
 l-MMMDLE I" A l"X.06"- 48"* tt, SPRING WIRE, I YD. CHE-E-SECLOTH 
 
 FINE riESH NET 
 
 FIG. 7. 
 
 STOCK FOR POLLYWOC 
 AND FISH NET 
 
 42" * 12. SPRUNG WlRE. 
 3 SQ. FEET FINE ME5I1 NET 
 
 FIG.3 
 
 t^NiocorpoTAsaW" 
 
 Po »HOII5 Tfl CREfWtE I _ n_flSTf-IVor-P^ 
 
 Ife^S^f - 5AW DUST 
 
 •^^LpoTfl&SlUn CYANIDE. 
 
 STOCK FOR INSECT DOTTLE 
 I LftRGEl MOUTHED BOTTLED 
 I OZ. POTASSIUM CYANIDE. COVERED 
 
 WITH SAWDUST AI1D PLASTE.R.-OF- PARIS 
 
 M. 
 
 FIG. \ 
 
 and the one previously suggested should be wrapped very firmly with 
 binding wire so as to hold the ends of the wire more firmly in place 
 and to prevent the handle from splitting. Sometimes these types are 
 made so that the handle can be slipped on and off as desired. Fig. 7 
 
32 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 allows for this very readily. The ends of the wires are wrapped 
 very tightly around a round stick in the form of a spiral. This cuts 
 a thread or a spiral depression so that the handle can be screwed on 
 and off as desired. 
 
 Mosquito netting can be used for the net, but cotton tulle or 
 cheesecloth lasts much longer. A narrow strip of heavier cloth such 
 as muslin should be sewed around the wire ring and the lighter cloth 
 sewed to this. Dr. Hodge suggests that the depth of the bag be a 
 little more than twice the diameter of the ring, so as to lap over and 
 close well when an insect is caught. 
 
 The insect bottle (Fig. 3) has been suggested by Dr. Hodge. He 
 says : ' To preserve your insect, you must first kill it without injury 
 and this is best done with a cyanide bottle. Get a wide mouthed 
 bottle and a good cork to fit it tightly. In the bottom put an ounce 
 of potassium cyanide broken into lumps not larger than a filbert ; 
 add sawdust a little more than enough to cover the largest lumps and 
 pour in plaster of Paris, mixed to a consistency of thick cream, to 
 form a layer a quarter of an inch thick. The plaster will harden in a 
 few minutes, and an insect dropped in and corked up will die almost 
 instantly and without injury or apparent suffering. What kills the 
 insect is the fumes of the cyanide coming through the plaster and 
 saturating the air within the bottle ; hence, avoid breathing any of 
 these fumes yourself and keep the bottle tightly corked at all times. 
 The cyanide is a deadly poison, and the fact that it is a harmless- 
 looking white substance, not unlike lump sugar or rock salt and many 
 other things, renders it one of the most dangerous poisons to keep 
 about the house. (Label the bottle as in Fig. 3.) Such a bottle 
 will remain good for a season. If moisture collects in it, wipe dry 
 with blotting paper or a soft cloth. 
 
 " Insects may be killed with chloroform. If this is preferred, get 
 an ounce of it in a flat vial ; stick the handle of a camel's hair brush 
 into the bottom of the cork ; and, holding the insect in a fold of the 
 net, apply a drop of chloroform to each side (for insects breathe 
 through a row of minute holes along the sides), and the insect dies 
 instantly. 
 
NETS AND INSECT BOTTLES 33 
 
 "Ona collecting trip you will also need a newspaper, in which 
 the insects may neatly be folded without breaking the wings or 
 legs." 1 
 
 A word of caution as to the purpose of catching insects will not 
 be out of place here. The collecting should not be the aimless catch- 
 ing of any flying thing that happens to attract the attention, but the 
 aim should be to learn to know the important things about the most 
 important insects, to know about those which are destructive and those 
 which are beneficial. Dr. C. F. Hodge, in the chapter Plan for Insect 
 Study, of his book Nature Study and Life, suggests : that we collect 
 insects and study them so as to be able through favorable conditions 
 to propagate and make use of the insects that are beneficial to combat 
 and destroy those that are injurious. 
 
 On account of the peculiar development of insect life it is necessary 
 to understand the life story of the insect, which means all the changes 
 it goes through from the time it hatches from the egg to the time it 
 dies. Most insect eggs like the caterpillar hatch out quite differently 
 from the parent and then go through several stages of development 
 before the adult insect appears. With the destructive insects it is very 
 necessary to know the whole life story so as to find their weakest point, 
 that we may most easily destroy them. With the beneficial insects 
 this knowledge is necessary so that we may develop and propagate 
 them. 
 
 A fine mesh fish net is most suitable for the minnow and polliwog 
 net shown in Fig. 2. This can be purchased at any sporting goods 
 house. The net should be slightly less in depth than the diameter of 
 the net so that it can readily be inverted over the bucket to receive 
 them. 
 
 A ring of wire must be made on which to fasten the net. It can 
 be fastened to a ring with a handle, as previously described for the 
 insect net, but it is more convenient to have it fastened by a cord, 
 as shown in Fig. 2. By a cord, the net can be lowered into the water 
 and quickly and quietly lifted up, whereas the wooden handle of the 
 net is liable to frighten away the fish and polliwogs. 
 
 1 Hodge, Nature-Study and Life, pp. 51-52. 
 
34 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 - — M — L 1 i i nJ ^^ 
 
 
 WINDMILLS AND VANES. Windmills admit of a great variety 
 of possibilities in construction and in the use of materials. The con- 
 struction and material must be such that they will not be affected by 
 sun or rain. The propeller (Fig. 1) involves modeling with the knife 
 and a cross-lap joint. The shaft can be planed up octagonal or round, 
 as described in Figs. 4, 5 and 6 on page 61, and the vane can he cut 
 out with the coping saw. 
 
 A one-piece propeller with but two projecting blades or wings can 
 be used as seen in the photograph. This would be the same as Fig. 2 
 without the middle groove cut out. If two pieces such as Fig. 2 are 
 made and put together a cross-lap joint construction such as is shown 
 in Fig. 1 will be the result. The blades should be marked out but 
 not whittled until the cross-lap joint is made and the glue dry. Pro- 
 pellers with as many as six or eight blades can be made, but the cross- 
 lap joints required for such ones are very difficult to make. 
 
 The hub propellers are very much easier to make than those just 
 described. They can be made with any number of wings. Figure 5 
 is a four-winged propeller. After cutting out the block for the hub, 
 saw grooves obliquely into each edge at least ^ M in depth and just 
 wide enough for the wings to fit. Fig. 6 is a drawing of the wing 
 blade, and Fig. 7 is a drawing of the hub. Care must be taken that 
 the wings are not forced in, else the hub will split. If six or eight wings 
 are desired, make a hexagonal or octagonal hub and saw grooves. 
 The grooves should have the same slant on all sides. 
 
WINDMILLS AND VANES 
 
 35 
 
 WINDMILL AMD VANE 
 
 END VIHVx/ 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 FIG., 
 
 Y3ZZ13 : f 
 
 scale: 
 
 i , l , "l , r 
 
 ^^/v^, 
 
 FIG. 3L 
 
 STOCK 
 
 2. WINGS V S " \ i/j," X4-J4" 
 
 I SHAFT 34." * %" A 5 " 
 
 i vane sv-c k v&" k a " 
 
 I UPRIGHT • 3 /8"0iAI > l- * 4- " 
 
 FIG. 3 
 
 # 
 
 
 WING 
 
 SHAFT 
 
 •SLOT- 
 FOK VANE 
 
 FIG. 4 
 
 FIG.5 
 
 METAL PROPELLER 
 
 ]::/• 
 
 stocis 
 
 I HUB 
 
 IV x !•£" KI&" 
 
 4 WINGS 
 Ike" A. !/a" Xi%" 
 
 I 1 HUB 
 
 HUB PROPELLER FIG. 7 
 
 TOP VIE.W 
 
 <£— I 
 
 >t 
 
 'I A l °* 
 
 |_1 
 
 FIG. 6 
 
 5CALEL 
 
 ^a - " 
 ^ 
 
 UL 
 
 WING 
 
 EHD 5I0E.VIEW 
 
 M 
 
 A metal propeller can be made very much more readily than one 
 of wood. The metal must be fairly stiff so as to hold itself in shape. 
 Sheet iron about No. 22 gage " American Standard " is very desirable. 
 The simplest two-blade propeller can be made of a narrow strip of 
 
36 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 metal with the ends bent, similar to the propeller first suggested. If 
 four blades are desired two strips can be lapped, but unless they can 
 be soldered it is much more convenient to use a round disc of metal. 
 Divide the disc up into the desired number of parts ; then cut on the 
 radial lines toward the center, leaving enough metal for the hub. Bend 
 all the blades into shape. Figure 4 shows the front and side views of 
 an eight-blade propeller after it is bent into shape. 
 
 If a right-hand movement of the propeller is desired, make as 
 shown in the drawing. Sometimes a double windmill is made as can 
 be seen in the center of the photograph. Two propellers are used, 
 one right handed and the other left handed. When both are in motion 
 on the same shaft, a peculiar effect is produced because they run in 
 opposite directions to each other. 
 
 The best method of fastening the propeller to the shaft is by means 
 of a round-headed screw. If the propeller is of wood, a washer should 
 be used under the head of the screw. This will prevent the screw 
 from eating its way into the wood. A washer should also be placed 
 between the back of the propeller and the end of the shaft. The screw 
 hole and the parts that rub should be well waxed to prevent friction. 
 
 A number of methods can be used to fasten the shaft to the 
 upright, the most common of which is by means of a round-headed 
 screw running down from the top of the shaft into the top of the 
 upright. This arrangement is the same as that used to fasten the 
 propeller to the shaft. Just at what point to fasten the upright to 
 the shaft cannot be determined until the propeller and the weather 
 vane are fastened in place. The point on the shaft where the whole 
 thing balances evenly is the place to bore the hole for the screw into 
 the upright. Another method of fastening the shaft to the upright 
 is that suggested in Fig. 1 , where the round end of the upright fits into 
 a hole bored into the under side of the shaft. In each case the upright 
 can be fastened to the top of a post or nailed to the side of the house. 
 Another method sometimes used is to fasten the shaft securely to a 
 round upright and to drop the end of it into a round hole. 
 
 The vane can be cut to represent almost any form desired. The 
 greater width should be at the windward end. The vane can be made 
 
WINDMILLS AND VANES 37 
 
 of any stiff material not affected by the rain. A thin wood is satis- 
 factory, but light sheet metal is better. To fasten it in place, saw a 
 groove in the end of the shaft, slip the vane in place, and nail it securely. 
 The windmill and vane painted in bright colors adds much to their 
 attractiveness as well as durability. 
 
 A number of windmills can be seen in the photograph, ranging 
 from the pin wheel to the Mother Hubbard and Happy Jack windmills. 
 The blades of Mother Hubbard's umbrella are sawed out with the 
 coping saw and the ends whittled round and inserted in round holes 
 bored in the hub. Mother Hubbard is the vane and revolves 
 herself around the dowel which goes through the piece on which 
 she stands and rests in a hole bored partially through the piece 
 just above it. 
 
 The Happy Jack windmill has the extended arms fastened together 
 on a wire which freely revolves in a hole bored through the shoulders. 
 The blades should be glued in, one lengthwise and the other almost 
 crosswise. A hole is bored up through the feet, made to fit a nail 
 hammered up through the block, so that " Happy " can freely spin 
 around on this upright pivot. 
 
 In school work much interest and enthusiasm can be worked up 
 through competition in the construction of windmills and vanes. 
 Among the older pupils awards can be made for originality of con- 
 struction, beauty of design, and durability. For the younger pupils 
 a simple construction can be determined upon and original designs 
 for the outline of the vanes may be asked for. Definite limitations as 
 to maximum and minimum sizes should be given. Have the designs 
 cut out of paper with the scissors. Definite suggestions as to appro- 
 priate forms such as birds and boats should be given. The best shape 
 can be used, or each one may use his own design provided it is good. 
 
 The important thing is to see that the windmills work. Test 
 them out ; see that they work properly. Get the boys to put them 
 up. Have them raised on poles, or put on the top of barn or garage, 
 where they can be a constant source of pleasure to the makers. Boys 
 thoroughly interested in this problem may make several different 
 kinds and put them up as in competition one with the other. 
 
38 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 1 # ] 
 
 ■ lll„l,ll m 
 
 Li It ^S^, 1 
 
 1 • • o 
 
 <3 <* 2 
 
 
 m ) — 
 
 J. " 5aS * 
 
 STRING AND WHISTLING INSTRUMENTS. All of the prob- 
 lems shown in the photograph were made by young children in 
 taking up the study of sound. The zither, suggested by Fig. 1 of the 
 drawing, is made to obtain varying tones. Seven tones were pro- 
 duced by means of seven lengths of wire, cord, or cat-gut strings. Any 
 number of tones can be produced by using various lengths. 
 
 Another method of getting various tones is by having the strings 
 the same length and varying the thickness of the strings. In this 
 case the box can be made rectangular. Silk thread can be used. 
 The varying thickness of strings can be obtained by taking the desired 
 number of threads, and twisting them together. 
 
 To make the instrument suggested by Fig. 1, first make the box, 
 fastening it together with glue and very thin brads. Extreme care 
 must be used in putting the brads in this thin wood, because the wood 
 is liable to split. It is well to fasten the bridge and the corner piece 
 to the top before putting the top on the box. When two or three 
 lengths of strings only are used, a large round hole or several small 
 holes, one for each wire, can be used. This is shown in the photo- 
 graph. If several strings are used, it is best to cut the hole oval in 
 shape, as suggested in Fig. 1. It is well to make the bridge of hard 
 wood. If more resonance is desired, a steel wire such as a hat pin 
 can be embedded in the top edge of the bridge. This is shown in the 
 drawing. The tuning pegs, used to keep the strings taut, can be 
 made ; but it is more convenient to buy them at a music store, where 
 
STRING AND WHISTLING INSTRUMENTS 
 
 39 
 
 STRING AMD WHISTLING INSTRUMENTS 
 
 wme-^, 
 
 -bridge: 
 
 CORNER PIECES 
 
 aioEi vi ew 
 
 STOCK 2.TOPS—6" X^VxIi" I BRIDGE! %"X}4"X4" 
 
 I END 1-34" X^4"/v5^" I SIDE_I34"X,%"XI2" I CORNER riECE-^'x^j'kS^' 
 
 LEND |34-"X-%"X6)^" I SIDE._W*%"xa" 7 TURNING PEGS AND WIRES 
 
 H" 
 
 -8^ 
 
 ■^/'-J^./4 
 
 14- 
 
 o o o ~o 
 
 END 
 
 VIEWS 
 
 STOCK ■ I- BAMBOO ABOUT 14 "LONG - Z. C0KK3 FIG.Z 
 
 FIG. 3 
 
 [n: iv:::::" 
 
 STOCK I BAMBOO ABOUT 6" LONG 
 
 Jft. 
 
 they can be obtained at little cost. If the pegs are made by hand, be 
 careful that a long taper is made, otherwise the sudden or short taper 
 will not hold in firmly and is liable to split the thin wood. 
 
 To string the instrument, first fasten the ends of the strings to 
 
40 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 brads located at one end of the box. The other ends of strings are 
 passed through the holes in the tuning pegs. The pegs are then put 
 in position and wound up until the strings are taut. The drawing 
 shows one of the pegs only in position. The peg is tapered so that 
 when pushed in firmly, it will not slip around and slacken the string. 
 The corner piece is put in to strengthen the wood so that, when the 
 pegs are forced in, they will not split the top piece. 
 
 A much simpler, but less effective, apparatus can be made by using 
 a solid block of wood instead of the box ; and nails instead of the tun- 
 ing pegs, the wire being pulled taut and then tied securely to the nail. 
 
 A banjo effect can be produced by attaching a handle to a cigar 
 box, as shown in the photograph. The end of the handle is fastened 
 to the inside of the cigar box lid, and the end of the box cut away so 
 as to allow the lid to shut down tightly. 
 
 Fig. 2 is the drawing of what the boys please to call a " Fife." 
 The one shown in the photograph is made of one length of bamboo. 
 One end is plugged up tightly with a cork to form the air pocket. If 
 the bamboo is cut so that the joint comes at this point, the cork is not 
 needed. The opposite end must have a plug of cork or wood fitted in 
 it. Before fastening this plug in place, cut one side of the plug -flat, 
 as shown by the end views of Fig. 2. This plug is fastened in 1|" 
 or less from the end. Next cut a notch in the bamboo on the same side 
 as the flattened part of the plug. Also bevel the back off, as shown 
 in the drawing. As the cutting proceeds, test by blowing. Stop cut- 
 ting when the desired tone is obtained. By varying the size of the 
 opening, the notch, and the chamber, different tones will result. The 
 small holes shown in the top near one end are intended for the fingers. 
 
 The ordinary whistle is made in the same way, as already suggested 
 by Fig. 2, except that the chamber is made very much shorter. If 
 bamboo is not available, a piece of soft wood with a hole bored in it 
 can be used, or a piece of willow with good strong bark on it may be 
 used. If a pea or other round substance is put in the chamber before 
 fastening in the plug, a peculiar vibrating tone is obtained. 
 
 A " humming bird " is suggested by Fig. 3. A piece of bamboo 
 is cut off at the joints, or the ends are plugged up with corks. Long, 
 
STRING AND WHISTLING INSTRUMENTS 41 
 
 narrow slits are cut in two sides, and a string is fastened to one end, as 
 can be seen in the photograph. When this is swung around in the air 
 rapidly, a peculiar whistle or humming sound is produced. The tone 
 will vary according to the size of the chamber and the open slits. 
 
 From such crude beginnings boys and girls have been led to make 
 instruments of value. For high school students ukuleles, zithers, and 
 banjos can be worked out, as shown in the illustration below. 
 
 The best plan is to obtain an instrument of simple strong con- 
 struction and use it as a model to pattern after. Thin mahogany ve- 
 neer for the box part or other hard resonant wood can be obtained 
 from the mill. The piece for the sides is thoroughly steamed or soaked 
 in hot water and then clamped into the curved shape between two 
 pieces of wood, one the exact shape of the inside of the box part 
 and the other the outside shape of the box. This outer piece must, 
 of course, be in two parts split down the center. After the wood is 
 thoroughly dry, the clamps can be removed and the piece will retain 
 the shape into which it has been pressed. 
 
 Pieces about J" X J" must be glued securely to the top and bot- 
 tom all round the inside corners so as to keep it from warping. Fasten 
 securely the top and bottom to the sides. Nails must not be used. 
 The opening must be cut, and the corner pieces and bridge must be 
 fastened in place before putting together. 
 
 An ingenious instrument is made thus : Fasten a fine wire or guitar 
 string lengthwise to a board. Fut a strip of wood at each end to ele- 
 vate the wire about £". Stretch it taut with a tuning peg. To play 
 on it, take a cigar box with lid or one end removed. Rub the open 
 edge of the box on the string. Rosin will help. With a little prac- 
 tice interesting and amusing effects can be produced. 
 
 Ukulele made by High School Student 
 
42 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 SWINGS. For the construction of swings hard wood is prefer- 
 able. The child's swing, Fig. 1, is for young children. If less work 
 is desired all the strips can be made straight instead of curved. 
 
 The holes in all the pieces should be slightly larger than the diameter 
 
 of the rope used. With |" rope 
 the holes should be^ M in diameter. 
 Notice that the holes in all of the 
 pieces(Figs.2,3,4and 5)aref" from 
 the ends, while from the sides they 
 
 are but ^". This is done to obtain 
 
 equal strength all around, the short 
 grain at the ends being weaker than 
 the grain at the sides. The work 
 should first be laid off and the holes 
 bored (fasten in the vise while boring 
 the holes to prevent splitting) before 
 cutting to the outline. After the 
 bottom or seat piece is laid off, test 
 to see if it is square by measuring 
 from corner to corner. The length 
 of the two diagonals should be ex- 
 actly the same. Next, lay back, 
 front, and side strips on the seat piece 
 to see if the holes and outlines match 
 up. The holes can be bored and the 
 outline drawn with these pieces thus 
 in place. The uprights are made 
 from a piece of bamboo. I f this bam- 
 boo is not at hand, use cotton spools ; 
 or use straight grained soft wood. 
 
 Select a piece about 1" square, saw four pieces off the proper length, 
 
 bore a |" hole through them lengthwise, and then round them up. 
 When setting up the swing, the rope should be knotted as shown 
 
 in Fig. 1, or slipped all the way across as in Fig. 7. When knotted 
 
 it will always remain level if properly set. 
 
SWINGS 
 
 43 
 
 FIG.1 
 
 top vie: w 
 
 SCALE 
 
 BOTTOM 
 
 SWINGS 
 
 FIG. 3 
 
 s: 
 
 3i 
 
 -IX 
 
 ■14- 
 
 ® 
 
 FRONT 
 
 to 
 
 is: 
 
 FIG. 5 
 
 ^ 
 
 UPRIGHTS 
 
 side: 
 
 STOCK 
 
 2. SIDES IJ4-"X3-^" X9.H" 
 
 4- UPRIGHTS I" DIAH XS">V' 
 
 I BOTTOM. 
 
 I BACK 
 
 I FRONT- 
 
 JO" X Mi" XI4>i" 
 
 l%" K%'" X 14- " 
 .1 '-4" X 3^," X 14- " 
 
 FIG. 7 
 
 -ROPIu 
 
 -16- 
 
 '4 MM— 
 
 ^;:;i!' 
 
 IxMD 
 
 H 
 
 «-B<WTEM 
 "(0 
 
 JL_ 
 
 TOPVIE.W 
 
 ! 1 
 
 SEAT FOR ROPE. SWING 
 
 m 
 
 Fig. 7 is a seat for the ordinary rope swing. Batten pieces should 
 be fastened underneath across each end. The sharp corners of the 
 wood should be rounded off wherever the rope touches it, to prevent 
 cutting the rope. 
 
44 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 MAP AND POST CARD PICTURE PUZZLES. The educa- 
 tional advantage of this puzzle lies in its possible correlation with 
 geography and history. The sawed lines can be the boundary lines 
 of states and counties or townships, or the pieces can be sawed so that 
 one or more cities may be located on each piece. 
 
 Before making the frame, paste or glue the picture securely to a 
 thin board not more than |" in thickness. While drying press it flat. 
 
 The frame to hold a post card 3| M X 5i" is shown in Fig. 1. The 
 bottom of the frame should be about | M larger all around than the card ; 
 for instance, the bottom piece of Fig. 2 must be 4^ M X 6|", thus al- 
 lowing \ u for width of rim all the way around the frame. After 
 making the bottom piece, cut out the strips for the rim, which should 
 be the same thickness as the piece upon which the card is mounted. 
 
 To assemble the parts, first glue and nail one side and one end 
 strip to the bottom piece ; then slip the card into place ; and next 
 nail the other side and end strips on the bottom piece. Use nails 
 long enough so that they can be clinched. With the larger frames 
 battens are necessary to keep the bottom piece from warping. 
 
 Unless the state or county boundaries are to be followed, care should 
 be used so as to avoid short grain, so that the projections cannot easily 
 be broken off. For directions in the use of the coping saw see page xxiv. 
 
 The post card box (Fig. 2) is the type of box construction in which 
 the butt joint is used. In a box construction the sides of the box 
 should always be the entire outside height and the entire outside 
 
MAP AND POST CARD PICTURE PUZZLES 
 
 45 
 
 MAP AND POST-CARD PICTURE PUZZLE 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 MAP OR POSTCARD TO BE SAWED 
 INTO SHALL PIECES 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 i i 
 
 T~ 
 
 I 
 
 
 m 
 
 KiH- 
 
 ^*TT 
 
 "M23" 
 
 
 side: view 
 
 STOCK 2. EMD STRIPS— >t"x M"* 0&" 
 
 I BOTTOM 4>i" X !4-"x 6j£' 2. SIDE. STRI PS _ /*." X H-" * 6 >i" 
 
 I BOARD FOR CARD _ d&" X >4"Xft£" 2. BATTENS /a." X &." X 3^." 
 
 FIG, 2. 
 
 SCALE. 
 
 i ' r > ' •,; i ' i ■ ' ' I 
 
 2 ■ « 
 
 POST CARD BOX 
 
 STOCK 
 
 2. EMDS _ 2," \ &" K5%" 
 2. SIDES— V KJ4-"K64" 
 I B0TT0n_5% K #'*%" 
 
 scale: 
 
 1 1 • j ■ i ' 
 
 < 3' : 
 
 _£L 
 
 length ; the bottom piece should be the inside width and the inside 
 length ; and the ends should be the entire outside height and the inside 
 length of the box. The bottom always fits inside, and the end pieces 
 fit in between the side pieces. 
 
46 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 PRINT FRAMES. Printing frames can serve a variety of pur- 
 poses, especially in connection with shop work, nature-study work, 
 and photography. The frame shown in the photograph contains 
 prints of leaves used in making a collection of leaf prints. The frames 
 in Figs. 1 and 3 are designed for 5" X 7" print paper. The inside of the 
 frame should be at least f " larger each way than the paper to be used. 
 If larger frames are made, the material should be proportionately 
 heavier, and the back should be made of two pieces hinged in the 
 middle with a batten fastened to each piece. The middle frame in 
 the photograph shows the back in position with the rubber band 
 holding it in place. If desired a piece of spring steel in place of the 
 rubber band can be used for the larger frames. Fasten the strip of 
 steel to the top edge of the batten, and adjust so that the ends will 
 slip under the head of round-headed screws or slits made in the edge 
 of the frame. 
 
 The simplest construction for the frame is made by simply nail- 
 ing the several pieces together as shown in the center of the above 
 photograph and in Fig. 1. If nails which are slightly longer than the 
 thickness of the frame are used, the ends can be turned and clinched. 
 This fastens the two strips securely together. 
 
 If advanced technique is desired, any one of a number of joints 
 can be used in putting the frames together. The simplest joint is the 
 end lap joint as shown in Fig. 3. Glue and screws, or nails clinched, 
 should be used to secure a strong joint. With the large frames a piece 
 
PRINT FRAMES 
 
 47 
 
 a: 
 
 s 
 
 PRINT FRAMES 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 &<£ 
 
 
 -ik- 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 ^1* 
 
 .1 
 
 ■8f 
 
 view 
 
 si de: vielw 
 
 STOCK 
 
 2. FRONT ENDS I" K J^" x 4" 
 
 2. BACK ENDS W X %" X 6,%" 
 
 Z. FRONT SIDES l" x. /a" -x 8;%" 
 
 k BACKSIDES ^A" X %" X 7/fl" 
 
 I BACK 5-" X. 3/a" X7" 
 
 I BATTEN 
 I GLPiSS__ 
 
 J&' X 2/e>" *4-%' 
 .«f" x 7 
 
 I AUBBEFt BAND 
 
 IqOQ 
 
 FIG. 3 
 
 ft 
 
 •napptT ^° 
 
 -^- 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 
 
 i] 
 
 •h- 
 
 E.flp 
 
 vi aw 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 FIG 2. 
 
 f- 
 
 ZE1 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 -5- 
 
 E1ND VIEW 
 
 SCALE 
 
 I ' I, 
 4- 
 
 T 
 
 STOCK 
 
 2. ends___%"x j^ 1 x 6%" 
 * SIDES_%"x &" x d%" 
 I BACK_5""yv %" x 7" 
 
 I BATTEN, I ^'x^" X 4-?%" 
 
 HMD LAP 
 
 uoirrr 
 
 /KA 
 
 of felt is usually used. This is placed next to the paper so as to hold 
 the paper firmly against the tracing or negative. The felt is some- 
 what expensive. If it cannot be used a piece of cardboard or heavy 
 cloth or paper will take its place very satisfactorily. 
 
48 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 SCISSORS AND DANCING JACKS. The scissors jack (Fig. 1) 
 is put together by first marking the position of the nail holes and 
 starting the nails ; and then by laying all the pieces down in position, 
 and driving in the nails. Be sure the ends line up evenly as shown in 
 
 the drawing. The nails should be 
 ■§" long, that is, long enough for the 
 point to go through and to be 
 turned over and clinched. Care 
 must be taken in driving the nails 
 in lest they split the wood at the 
 ends. Reject all pieces that start 
 to split. If considerable care is 
 used holes can be bored in the foot 
 pieces without splitting. These 
 holes can be used in which to insert 
 the thumb and finger. Any even 
 number of body pieces can be used. 
 The ones in the photograph show 
 four only, while six are shown in. 
 the drawing. If desired the jacks can 
 be clothed with a flowing robe, and 
 a facial expression can be painted 
 as suggested in the photograph. 
 
 The string jack (Fig. 3) shows 
 a very simple modification of out- 
 line. The shape of the parts of the 
 body are produced by a few notches. 
 Fig. 3 shows a view with the front 
 body piece removed so as to make 
 the arrangement of the parts clear. 
 The position of the arms and legs shows the strings pulled down 
 until the arms and legs are in a horizontal position. The strings 
 can be fastened to the ends of the arms and legs through holes 
 as suggested, or to nails fastened in the ends of the pieces. Follow 
 the directions for fastening as suggested in Fig. 1. 
 
SCISSORS AND DANCING JACKS 
 
 49 
 
 JACKS 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 STOCK 
 
 BODY 
 
 3" CLOTHESPIN 
 ARMS 
 
 LEGS 
 
 SCISSORS JACK 
 
 STOCK 
 
 2, shoulde:rs_3/4" k. v4 x z.% 
 
 I HEftD 2." A^"X4-V 
 
 6 BODY 3/4" * J^'X^-ft." 
 
 J- LEGS |V * VVX 6/i 
 
 SCALE. 
 
 CLOTHESPIN JACK 
 
 STRING OACK. 
 STOCK 
 
 I HEAD) 134" * <A1' X 6Ji" 
 
 2. ARMS ^." X%"X4%" 
 
 2. LEGS I " X %" X. 5^." 
 
 2. BODY 3" *.%" X 4'/*," 
 
 If desired the jack can be dressed and facial expressions added. 
 The clothespin jack (Fig. 2) is a clothespin cut off at the end and arms 
 and legs added. If the nails are put in so that the legs do not swing 
 too freely, a number of postures can be secured. 
 
 E 
 
50 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 CLIMBING AND JUMPING JACKS. The climbing jack as 
 shown in the drawing is made by fastening the arm to the body in a 
 position slightly above the horizontal. The cardboard in the palm 
 of the hand should not be fastened down too tightly. The string 
 should slip between the cardboard and the wood with a little friction. 
 The staple or double pointed tacks should be small. The one in the 
 hand should be driven in lengthwise with the arm while the two in 
 the leg should run crosswise. The leg should swing freely. When the 
 string is loose, the rubber band should pull the leg up about as shown 
 in Fig. I. When the string is pulled taut as shown in Fig. 2, the 
 position of the two staples in the leg holds the string at this point, 
 while the string at the top easily slips down through the cardboard 
 and the wood of the hand, or as it appears the hand slips up the string. 
 This position is shown in Fig. 2. When the string is slackened and 
 the rubber band pulls the leg up, the friction of the cardboard against 
 the wood of the hand should hold the string tight while the changed 
 position of the staples in the leg allows the string to slip up freely from 
 below. If upon relaxing the string, it should slip through the hand, 
 the cardboard should be fastened to the wood a little more firmly. 
 If the rubber band will not allow the leg to straighten down enough, 
 get a longer band or move down the nail which holds it on the body. 
 This jack should climb about 5" with each pull of the string. 
 
 The jumping jack (Fig. 3) is made by taking a block of wood for 
 the body and head, and having the arms and legs pivot freely. Strings 
 
CLIMBING AND JUMPING JACKS 
 
 51 
 
 JACKS 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 fIG.i. 
 
 STOCt\ 
 
 BODY 
 
 I LELG 
 WX^'XC-" 
 
 arpi 
 
 I" XJ4"X4" 
 
 CARDBOARD I'M" 
 5" RUBBER BAUD 
 3-/jl'5TftPLE5 
 
 side: view 
 
 FRONT VIEW 
 
 * 3 » 
 
 fastened to the extremities of the parts are brought together and fas- 
 tened a short distance above the head to a light rubber band which 
 is suspended from a nail at the top of the head. Jerking the end of 
 the rubber band causes the projecting parts to move up and down. 
 
52 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 GYMNASTIC AND POLE JACK. The pole jack (Fig. 1) is a 
 simple construction. The action is shown in the photograph, the 
 lower one with the handle down and the upper one with the handle 
 up. The top part of the pole should be slightly thinner than the 
 
 handle or bottom part. 
 
 The gymnast jack (Fig. 2) is also 
 of simple construction in which all 
 the joints must work freely. If more 
 advanced technique is desired, the 
 body may be made of a heavier 
 piece. The one shown in the photo- 
 graph is made of a piece -§-" square. 
 The joints may be similar in con- 
 struction to that of the dolls on page 
 139. The uprights can be nailed to 
 the crosspiece, but the continual 
 strain on the uprights soon pulls the 
 nails loose. A slim wire finishing nail 
 or brad running through the several 
 pieces, as shown in Fig. 2, should 
 be used. The top part should be 
 threaded with a piece of strong cord 
 or thread as shown in Fig. 2. By 
 pushing the handles of the upright 
 in and out, vibrations are produced 
 upon the string. This causes the 
 figure to swing back and forth and 
 over the cord. 
 
 A dancing or clogging jack can be 
 made with parts of a broomstick for 
 the body, a spool for the head, and bamboo or a small rod for the legs 
 and arms. The ends of a spool can be shaped up for the feet. This 
 jack must be made up with as many joints as possible. Bore a hole 
 through the body ; then fasten a string to the top of the feet and up 
 through the legs, body, and out at the head. If it is not convenient 
 
GYMNASTIC AND POLE JACK 
 
 53 
 
 JACKS 
 
 TOP VIE1W WITH CAP OFF 
 
 SCALE. 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 BACK 
 
 VIEW 
 
 STOCK FOR POLE JACK 
 
 r pole: _ w k %£ x. is" z arms-^-" k '4"\ 3 " 
 
 I HANDLE. W K V4! U" 2. THIGHS- 1 " \ V4-' A 4-" 
 I BODY__lM-"* y^ X.4&' I CALF_^" X Y4" X4-" 
 
 i cap / " x Vq. *./#: 2. peeltj^' k #' * 3" 
 
 h- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 t~ 
 
 « 1 
 
 i 
 
 ill 
 
 [1 
 
 o I 
 
 cD - 
 
 Ju 
 
 £ » 
 
 V 
 
 
 \ 
 
 
 > STRINGS 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 X 
 
 X 
 
 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 r- 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 C 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 y 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (0 
 
 
 
 
 rO 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 E 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ca 
 
 if 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 h 
 
 h 
 
 
 
 
 
 ( 
 
 
 
 ) 
 
 
 
 
 II 
 J 
 
 £ 
 
 
 J 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 4- 
 
 <— 
 
 — M 1 — ► 
 
 4> 
 
 X 
 Id 
 
 2T 
 
 
 
 F"RONT 
 
 i- 
 
 
 J 
 
 
 VIEVv 
 
 r 
 
 
 __i_ 
 
 STOCK FOR GYMNAST JACK 
 
 I UPRIGHT 7/&! 
 
 i CHOSSPIEJCE.% 
 I B0DY_ I " 
 
 M' 
 
 2. ARMS. 
 X THIGH5_ 
 
 2. CALVLS. 
 
 x y-il * a " 
 
 x i>i" x.zJi" 
 
 \ 14." X 3^." 
 
 X. ^" X ztf 
 
 X ^" X 2." 
 
 J2L 
 
 to bore the holes, tie the joints together with string. To work the 
 jack suspend so that the feet will rest lightly on a thin board such as a 
 shingle projecting over the edge of a table which when tapped lightly 
 will vibrate and cause the jack to clog in great style. 
 
54 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 — ^ 
 
 t_ 
 
 d 
 
 L 
 
 
 ■■!*■ 
 
 y.- 
 
 13 
 
 : J 
 
 g 
 
 1 
 
 r 
 
 
 L 
 
 
 
 
 B l 
 
 a 
 
 Li 
 
 < 
 
 * 
 
 r 
 
 
 *^* 
 
 
 
 < 
 
 J 
 ^ 
 
 •4 
 
 fans 
 
 
 
 = 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 X 
 
 BaaniBni 
 
 *"" 
 
 
 
 TP" 
 
 LEVER MOVEMENTS. The lever movement in a variety of 
 forms is suggested in the drawing and the photograph. In Fig. 1 
 of the drawing is shown the ' blacksmith clothespin boys." The 
 anvil is made by sawing off the top of one clothespin. The arm can 
 be made of a brad, a piece of wire, a match, or a small dowel. The 
 proper fastening of the arm is difficult. Secure the arm to the hammer 
 before sawing away the clothespin, as it is easier to handle and is less 
 liable to split. The arm piece should be fastened to the hammer 
 straight in, at right angles. The arm is fastened into the body slant- 
 ing upwards. The parallel strips should not fit too tightly in the 
 slots of the clothespin, else they will not work back and forth easily. 
 
 In assembling the parts, first nail the anvil securely to the center 
 of one of the strips. Next, adjust the " boys " and fasten them, one 
 on each side of this strip with nails to make the pivots so that the 
 hammer will strike the anvil directly on top. With the clothespins 
 in an upright position and the parallels at right angles to them the 
 desired distance apart, drive in the two lower pivot nails, which should 
 be long enough to allow the points to be bent over. 
 
 The heavy lines in the drawing show the position of the parts as 
 they should be when fastening in the nails. The dotted lines show 
 the position when the lower strip is shifted over, the right " boy ' 
 with hammer down on the anvil, and the left " boy" with hammer up- 
 raised. Should the hammers be out of line adjust by bending the 
 arm, if the arms are made of wire ; but if of wood this is hardly possible. 
 
LEVER MOVEMENTS 
 
 55 
 
 LEVER MOVEMENTS 
 
 side: 
 
 VIEW 
 
 STOCK FOR BLACKSMITH BOYS^_4 CLOTHESPINS -I PARALLlLS_%"X>6"X8 " 
 
 SCALE1 
 
 1 ' ' I 
 
 FIG.3 
 
 \ O 1 
 
 4. 
 
 / ° / 
 
 
 
 
 \ ° X 
 
 - A 
 
 * 
 
 jj o / 
 
 STOCK FOR CHICK WITH WORM 
 
 Z PARALLELS H" X >t"A 10" 
 
 2. CHICKS 2- " X ^a" A -3 " 
 
 I RUBBERBAND 
 
 STOCK FOR. WRESTLERS SCALE! 
 
 2. PARALLE.LS__^."X^"X fG" 
 
 2. BODIES '#■" >"->t"Xv6" 
 
 2. APxHS^ IJ4" X/a"X3 / J£' 
 
 1 I i I ■ i ' 
 
 j£L 
 
 The " chicks with worm " and the " wrestlers" (Figs. 2 and 3) 
 operate similarly to the " blacksmith boys," but are not as difficult 
 to assemble. When driving the pivot nails in, the strips should always 
 be parallel and the upright pieces should be in an upright position. 
 
56 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 KNIVES. AND DAGGERS. Knives can be made in a number of 
 ways, depending on the use to which they are put. When carefully 
 planned, they are excellent manual training problems. 
 
 The knife as suggested in Fig. 1 is made of two pieces, the handle 
 and blade being separate. In one end of the handle, a slot is cut to 
 admit the blade. Before gluing this firmly in position, the handle 
 and blade should be modeled to the desired shape. Lines for the out- 
 line of the curves should be drawn, and these should be followed care- 
 fully if a good shape is to be expected. The knife suggested in Fig. 1 
 can be used as a dagger. If a hilt is desired it should be cut out of 
 sheet metal or thin wood and fastened on as suggested for the con- 
 struction of the fencing rods shown on page 63. 
 
 Figs. 2 and 3 serve excellently as paper cutters or envelope 
 openers. Fig. 3 suggests chamfer modeling and Fig. 2 suggests round 
 modeling. To get a good round shape, the wood should be worked 
 to an octagonal or eight-sided figure as suggested on page 61. 
 
 Fig. 4 represents a dagger. A case can be made of cloth or 
 leather. The handles and blades painted in contrasting colors, bronze 
 for the handle and silver for the blades, is very effective. 
 
 Knives for paper cutting and letter opening can be made from 
 sheet brass or copper. A pleasing pattern for the outline should first 
 be cut out of paper and traced on the metal with a sharp pointed 
 instrument. If the metal is thin the outline can be cut with tinners' 
 shears, and if thick with a metal saw. When purchased the metal is 
 
KNIVES AND DAGGERS 
 
 57 
 
 J 
 
 END 
 VIEW 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 FIG* 
 
 END 
 VI EW 
 
 
 END 
 VIEW 
 
 FIG. 3 
 
 KM IVES - DAGGERS 
 
 SCALE. 
 
 M | 
 
 SIDE. VIEW 
 
 * CROSS-SECTION OF BLADE 
 
 E10GE. VIE.W 
 
 STOCK 1 HANDL£l__r X #6"* 3" I BLADE — I" X>6"ibV 
 
 EDGE. VIEW 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 4 
 
 STOCK. 
 
 .%" A %" \6/4." 
 
 SIDE VICW 
 
 si- 
 
 -DG£ VI E_W 
 
 -\ 
 
 STOCK 
 
 •54" y^'A." rsQ'A" 
 
 STO C K I ^ " X 3 /e A 8 >t" 
 
 /COL 
 
 soft. It should be hardened by repeated hammering over the whole 
 surface while resting on a piece of hard wood or metal. The edge 
 should be beveled by hammering and then further sharpened with a 
 file or on a grindstone. It can be polished with emery cloth. 
 
58 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 TIP CAT OR PEGGY. The simplest " cat " can be made of a 
 piece of broom handle, 5" or 6" long. A half dozen types of 
 " catties " are herewith suggested. If the numbers are to be dis- 
 pensed with, the hexagonal and round ones present excellent problems in 
 modeling. The corners of the square ones should be rounded freely, 
 else the continued hard hitting will soon nick up the edges and make 
 them look badly. Lay out the figures before cutting the taper. This 
 will insure a working edge from which to square the lines across. 
 
 The game is played as follows : "' One player stands within a circle, 
 and with stick or bat of convenient size strikes the cat on the end, 
 making it fly into the air. Before it falls to the ground the batter 
 knocks it as far as he can. If the cat falls within the circle, the batter 
 is out and another takes his place. If the batter makes a fair knock, 
 he guesses how many bat lengths he has sent the cat, that number 
 being added to his score. However, if his guess is too high, as shown 
 upon measurement, he is out. The one having the highest score 
 after a certain number of rounds, wins. The game may be greatly 
 varied. Sometimes the batter measures the distance by jumps ; some- 
 times sides are chosen. In the latter case as many holes are made as 
 there are players on each side. These holes are made equally distant 
 apart and in the form of a circle. One side takes position, one player 
 at each hole, the other side forming outside the circle. One player 
 ' tips " the cat from his hole and all run, the object being for each 
 player to get to the next hole before the other side can return the cat 
 
TIP CAT OR PEGGY 
 
 59 
 
 c/9 
 
 # V 
 
 
 i 
 
 / \ 
 
 
 / \ 
 
 
 / \ 
 
 
 
 
 1L1 
 
 / \ 
 
 
 / \ 
 
 
 XL 
 o 
 
 / \ 
 
 
 1 \ 
 
 
 1 \ 
 
 n. 
 
 / \ 
 / \ 
 
 
 I \ 
 
 
 1 \ 
 1 \ 
 
 <r 
 
 / \ 
 
 
 1 \ 
 
 
 1 x 
 
 ¥■ 
 
 ' J 
 
 
 J 
 
 
 ' A 
 
 O 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 <r- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 '^U 
 
 
 
 
 "I* : 
 
 or 
 o 
 
 A ' 
 
 
 --*■ 
 
 Ml 
 
 Id 
 03 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 in 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 or 
 
 ! 
 
 
 — _ — —— — -J 
 
 
 -_._______, 
 
 D 
 
 \ / 
 
 
 \ / 
 
 
 ' / 
 
 O 
 
 \ / 
 
 \ / 
 
 
 
 \ / 
 
 1— 
 
 
 
 
 
 1- 
 
 X 1 
 
 
 \ / 
 
 \ / 1 
 
 
 \ / 
 
 / \ 
 
 ! 
 
 1 
 
 between any two holes. If this is successfully done, the side at the 
 bat scores a run ; if not, the side is out. The side scoring the greatest 
 number of runs, wins." 1 
 
 1 G. E. Johnson, Education Through Plays and Games, pp. 173-174. 
 
60 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING— PLAV PROBLEMS 
 
 PEGGY BATS. The peggy bats should not be made of soft wood 
 but an inexpensive hard wood should be used, such as pine or oak, 
 because of the hard usage it is bound to receive. For the same 
 reason the sharpness of all square corners should be well rounded 
 off. Eighteen inches of broom handle is a favorite bat for boys. 
 
 For the manual training man 
 who is looking for a series of tool 
 exercises in round modeling and 
 chamfering, the bat as suggested 
 in Fig. 8 has been found to be 
 most excellent. Figs. 4, 5, and 6 
 illustrate the method used to model 
 the handle from the square to the 
 round. To do this first lay out the 
 octagonal shape. Gage the lines from 
 the edges a little more than one- 
 quarter the diameter. In this case 
 
 where the thickness is f ' the distance 
 
 should be a full ^ M . After gaging 
 cut to the lines as Fig. 4. Next, make 
 1 6 sides as Fig. 5. With large work it 
 is best to layout all the lines, but with 
 the smaller pieces it is simply neces- 
 sary to plane off the eight edges and 
 thus make the 16 equal sides. It is 
 then a simple matter to plane off 
 these 16 edges, making 32 sides, and 
 round up with sand paper as Fig. 6. 
 For chamfered edges such as at 
 the end of the bat, do not make the 
 lines with the marking gage, since the 
 knife marks remain in the wood ; but use the thumb gage by holding 
 the pencil between thumb and finger, using the finger as a stop against 
 the work and letting the pencil point project the desired distance. A 
 little practice makes this a very desirable method. 
 
PEGGY BATS 
 
 61 
 
 o 
 
 >- 
 
 CD 
 CD 
 U 
 
 L_ 
 o 
 
 Id 
 
 r 
 
 o 
 
 e 
 
 fe 
 
 
 (OtcOL Earzr^-JiJ 
 
 i c 
 
 
 
 Id 
 
 _J 
 
 a. 
 
 
 * 
 
 **l 
 
 -4-i 
 
 
 \ *z 
 
 *- 
 
 -tf- 
 
 -H 
 
 I I 
 
 EDIICHI 
 
 Fig. 8 is the type of bat which meets with universal favor by 
 the boys. For the younger boys and the ones for whom the 
 making of this is too advanced, make the paddles as shown in 
 Figs. 1 and 2. 
 
62 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 FENCING RODS. Figs. 1 and 2 are suggestions of fencing rods 
 in which round rods or dowels are used for the blades. If dowels 
 are not available, the blades can readily be made from square or 
 rectangular shaped sticks. The wood for the blades must be per- 
 fectly straight grained. They should 
 be shaped up as shown in Fig. 3. 
 In Fig. 1 the blade tapers from §" di- 
 ameter at the handle to |" diameter 
 at the point. The blade of Fig. 2 is 
 tapered in thickness only, as shown 
 in Fig. 4, from f " at the handle end 
 to -j^-" at the point. The points 
 should be rounded, but not sharp- 
 ened. 
 
 In Fig. 1 a round rod is used for 
 the handle. In Fig. 2 the handle 
 is made from a rectangular piece 
 as shown by Fig. 3. The sharp 
 corners can be sandpapered off. 
 Bore a hole into the end of the 
 handle about 1" in depth so that 
 the end of the blade will fit snugly. 
 Also bore a hole the same size in 
 the center of the guards. 
 
 To assemble the fencing rod, first 
 slip the guard over the end of the 
 blade; then, after applying glue to 
 the parts, slip the blade into the 
 hole in the handle. Be careful that 
 this hole is perfectly straight so that 
 the handle and blade will line up together. Brad the parts together 
 and let them dry thoroughly before using them. 
 
 Of the middle pair of rods in the photograph, the blades are made 
 from rectangular pieces shaped up as shown in Fig. 4. The other 
 pairs of rods have been made from dowels, one with wooden guards 
 
FENCING RODS 
 
 63 
 
 FENCING RODS 
 
 TOPVIEW 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 SCALE 
 
 1 i ' I ' I ' 
 * 4"- >. 
 
 rX 
 
 SiDEJ iviEW 
 
 EttD OF BLAD£ 
 
 riG.i 
 
 I HANDLE. 
 I BLADE_ 
 I GUARD 
 
 FIG.2. 
 STOCK 
 
 _i>3/&" X94"X5" 
 
 f^." DIAM. X43" 
 
 METAL _4>i."DIAM. 
 
 STOCK . 
 
 I HANDLE I" DIAN1 X 5" 
 
 I BLADE. JVQIAM X4-5" 
 
 J G U A R D 4 id" X 3 /a" X4>i!' 
 
 MODE 
 
 J U 
 
 SIDE) IVIEW 
 
 L ! 
 
 CO 
 
 END of BLADE! 
 
 M. 
 
 and the other with metal guards. The guards that are shown in use 
 in the other photograph on page xxiv have been found to be very 
 serviceable. These rods are made of bamboo. The large end of the 
 bamboo is used for the handle and the smaller part for blades. 
 
64 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 ROQUE OR CROQUET GAME. To play the game herewith 
 shown, place at the stake a perfectly round ball. A large size grain 
 of shot is very satisfactory. Size No. BB is small enough to readily 
 go through the arches. Holding the game board on the palm of the 
 hand, tilt it so that the ball will go through the arches in the order 
 marked in Fig. 1. Should the ball roll into or beyond the boundary 
 groove or gutter, the next player must take his turn. When the first 
 player's turn comes again, he must start the ball from the point where 
 it rolled outside the boundary. The object of the game is to pass 
 through all the arches and finish by hitting the post at the starting 
 point. Fig. 1 represents the usual arrangement of the arches in 
 croquet. Fig. 2 represents a plan of the official roque game drawn 
 to scale. The exact plan and description of the courts are shown in 
 the Roque Guide of the Spalding's Athletic Library, published by the 
 American Sports Publishing Co., New York (price 10 cents). 
 
 This game board as a manual training problem admits of line 
 carving with and across the grain. In Fig. 1, f" holes are bored in 
 the corners and by means of a gouge these are connected with a groove. 
 If this groove is large enough to hold the ball the outside rim or stop 
 may be dispensed with, but it will be found that this rim used as an 
 extra precaution saves the ball from falling off to the floor. The cor- 
 ners of the outside rim can be mitered. The top surface of the board 
 should be smooth. Double pointed tacks can be used for the arches. 
 
 The crokinole and carrom boards as shown above were quickly 
 
ROQUE OR CROQUET GAME 
 
 65 
 
 ROQUE GAME 
 
 SCALE 
 
 END VIEW 
 
 ' I ' | ' | ' | ■ 
 < •+" 
 
 I BRAD FO^ POST 
 1*1 
 
 % HOLE. 
 
 D 
 
 .3 0- 
 
 ^-| STAPLE FOR. ARCHES 
 
 -/ i m4"' ! ' i— m- 
 
 -* 3 
 
 HI- 
 
 GROOVE 
 
 Jl 
 
 
 STOCK 
 I BOTTOM 5Ji"*#kir 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 44 
 
 2. SI DEIS . 
 2. EHDS- 
 
 .3^ * ^-"XllX." 
 
 "-I+ 
 
 SECTION 
 flTR-B 
 
 STAKE 
 
 / 
 
 Hefii- r ^f' l f At 
 
 ^ftRcne.s 
 
 3 
 
 ''J. 3 ">k l" A 1 ' 
 
 "47 * 
 
 4 
 
 GROOVE FOR GUTTER 
 
 ■S + 
 
 r 
 
 FIG./L, 
 
 STOCK 2. SIDES 94XJ4 x u& 
 
 I BOTTOn 6"xX"xl|" 2 EKDS 9i"/v^"K 6" 
 
 J2L 
 
 and easily made one-half the regulation size. Although more difficult 
 it is better to make them full size, which is about 30". If possible 
 go to the store and get exact measurements. The game disc is about 
 f" high and the outside rim 1 ". 
 
66 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 SOLITAIRE GAME. Dowels, round pins, nails, round discs, 
 or marbles can be adapted to any one of the solitaire boards ; square, 
 octagonal, or round as shown in the drawing. If it is desired to make 
 the board of a solid piece as in Fig. 2, the boring can be stopped just 
 as soon as the point of the bit comes through on the bottom side. 
 Great care must be exercised in the boring; for if one hole is bored 
 through, it necessitates boring all the holes through and using a bottom 
 board. If desired, a bottom board can be used as in Fig. 1. In Fig. 
 3 a countersink bit can be used to make the recesses for the head, or a 
 round-headed screw can be filed up and used as a countersink. This 
 secures a better fit for the marble. 
 
 The " Center Hole " game consists in starting with all but the 
 center hole filled, and in finishing with only the center hole filled. The 
 method used is by jumping as in checkers and removing the piece 
 jumped. The key for correct play, as per diagram (Fig. 1 ) is as follows : 
 
 1. Pass 
 
 2. Pass 
 
 3. Pass 
 
 4. Pass 
 
 5. Pass 
 
 E 
 
 6. Pass 
 
 7. Pass 
 
 8. Pass 
 
 9. Pass 
 
 E 
 
 D2 
 Fl 
 E 1 
 E4 
 CI 
 
 nto D 4 and remove D 3 10. 
 
 nto D 3 and remove E 3 11. 
 
 nto E 3 and remove E 2 12. 
 
 nto E 2 and remove E 3 13. 
 
 nto E 1 and again on into 
 
 3, removing D 1 and E 2 14. 
 
 E 6 into E 4 and remove E 5 15. 
 
 G 3 into E 5 and remove F 3 16. 
 
 D 5 into F 3 and remove E 5 17. 
 G 1 into G 3 and again on into 
 5, removing G 2 and F 3 
 
 Pass B 3 into D 5 and remove C 5 
 Pass C 7 into C 5 and remove C 6 
 Pass C 4 into C 6 and remove C 5 
 Pass E 7 into C 7 and again on into 
 
 C 5, removing D 7 and C 6 
 Pass C 2 into C 4 and remove C 3 
 Pass A 1 into C 3 and remove B 1 
 Pass D 3 into B 1 and remove A 1 
 Pass A 3 into A 1 and again on into 
 
 C 3, removing A 2 and B 1 
 
SOLITAIRE GAME 
 
 67 
 
 SOLITAIRE GAME 
 
 SCALt 
 » I ' | * I ■ J « I ■ | 
 
 
 
 
 
 FIG. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 \ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 / 
 
 / 
 
 
 
 
 C 
 
 D 
 
 in 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 O 
 i 
 
 O 
 1 
 
 o- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2. 
 
 2. 
 
 z. 
 
 
 
 
 
 p. 
 
 R 
 
 
 
 
 F 
 
 e 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 a 
 
 o 
 
 3 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 O 
 i 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 O 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 X. 
 
 X 
 
 <v 
 
 4- 
 
 4- 
 
 2. 
 
 2. 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 O 
 
 O 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 ■i 
 
 O 
 
 G 
 
 o 
 
 7 
 
 o 
 
 6 
 
 o 
 
 7 
 
 iff 
 
 o 
 
 6 
 
 o 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 s 
 
 FIG. 2. [< z.- 
 
 CO 
 
 O O 
 
 o o o o 
 
 O O o o 
 
 o o o o 
 
 o o o 
 
 o o o 
 
 Q O . O 
 
 M ,L *h- 1 ^r*- 1 -*|~- 1 ■*[*- / -^-H %*- !■*[*■ I '-^ 
 
 1 7" T" T" 7" 7" 7" 7" 7" 
 
 tt ' ll' 1 - ^ r I ., I - ' ~ I - '-■ '■- '■,! ■- '■, !, - ' -. 1 
 
 r 8*1 8 's I a I s" a I a I a'| 
 
 II II u 
 
 -H H h 
 
 STOCK FOR SQUARE BOARD 
 
 I PIECE 8" X Q 4" x 8" 
 
 I PIECE_8X'x^"x8>4 
 31D0WELSJ/4"DIAI v l.> / vl%" 
 
 STOCK E0f\ OCTAGONAL BOARD 
 IPIECE_7" X &"X7" 
 32. BR/\DS_2."L0hG 
 
 STOCK EOR. CIRCULAR BOARD 
 I PlECE_8"DIAtV/v a A" 
 
 jKL 
 
 1 8. Pass D 5 into D 3 and again on into 
 
 B 1.B3, D5, F 3, removing D 4, 
 C3,B2,C5,andE5 
 
 1 9. Pass F 2 into D 4 and remove E 4 
 
 20. Pass C 4 into E 4 and remove D 4 
 
 2 1 . Pass E 3 into E 5 and remove E 4 
 
 22. Pass F 3 into D 5 and remove E 5 
 
 23. Pass D 6 into D 4 and remove D 5 
 
68 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 MARBLE GAMES. The marble board or rake may be made in 
 a great variety of ways, covering processes especially in sawing, chisel- 
 ing, and boring. If thin wood is used as suggested in Fig. 1 , the open- 
 ings should be cut out with a coping saw. 
 
 A sawing and chiseling problem is suggested in Fig. 2. The slant 
 on the top edge of the two end pieces can be cut at the same time. 
 After getting them out the proper length and thickness, fasten them 
 together in position with two brads or a clamp, and then cut the slant. 
 In fastening the box together, a few drops of glue should be used at 
 the joints. Considerable care must be taken in nailing, else the pieces 
 will split. Use two nails in the back and two or three in the front. 
 Care must also be used to have the bottom edges on a line with each 
 other, else the box will not set down level. For the slow workers, the 
 making of the ends and back could easily be dispensed with. 
 
 Fig. 3 suggests a problem in either chiseling or boring or both. If 
 the chiseling and boring are combined in the one piece as suggested 
 in Fig. 3, the holes should not be bored until after the chiseling is 
 finished. To get a good finish, edges should be slightly rounded or 
 chamfered, and sandpapered. 
 
 Fig. 3 in the drawing of bean bag games on page 1 7 is a suggestion 
 of possibilities of marble rake made from cigar boxes. If the open- 
 ings are cut with a chisel it must be very sharp and great care must 
 be taken else the wood will split. If it is best to use the coping saw, 
 see directions for use on page xxiv. 
 
MARBLE GAMES 
 
 69 
 
 i i 
 
 J L 
 
 MARBLE GAMES 
 
 SCALE. 
 
 ■ i ' r i T i ' i ' i ' I 
 
 -< 4' — : — »_| 
 
 FIG t 
 
 VI HW 
 
 STOCK- ONE LOMG IWIHOW CIGAR BOX 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 -i r 
 
 i i 
 
 J l. 
 
 i i 
 
 12. %'- 
 
 FRONT VIEW 
 
 m 
 
 NoO 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I FRONT l¥4*tfxa% 
 I ENDS 1%'x3a*3'4: 
 I BACK I#x*£xk8 
 
 i^/f^4*jj4-j4*ff^ i^ig ^/g^'f J* /£*k-#-*J >*$*— 3£ — 4£ 
 
 H i 
 
 i» r 
 
 k- 
 
 13V 
 
 T STOCK 
 
 •J, I PIECE. ^"x%"x/3,!i 
 
 1 
 
 FIG. 3 
 
 T r 
 
 _j l. 
 
 _r — i r 
 
 ■i-4-i i^-i^^!|uu,'^/-^/^k-i|^-i^i£Vr 
 
 
 tMDVIELW 
 
 fca> 
 
 It is best to leave the paper on until after the cutting is done. 
 Points in playing the games may be arranged as desired ; one point for 
 the large opening and more as they increase in difficulty. This is 
 suggested in Figs. 2 and 3. 
 
70 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 STILTS. Stilts for those who have had no practice in stilt walk- 
 ing should be long enough to fit under the shoulder or to grasp with 
 the hands. The foot should not be strapped to the step. To avoid 
 accidents when falling, one must be able to quickly jump to the ground. 
 
 The short stilt strapped to the leg 
 as shown in Fig. 3 should not be 
 used until one has become expert in 
 walking. In some countries, the stilt 
 is much used by shepherds and is a 
 great convenience in traveling over 
 the ground. A strap each for the 
 ankle and the foot fastens it very 
 securely. 
 
 When camping out, the stilts 
 may be cut from a tree. Select a 
 straight limb about \\ u in diameter 
 which has a branch growing out 
 at almost right angles. Cut this 
 branch off with a projection of 3" 
 or 3^" for the step. Cut the limb 
 off about 20" below this step and 
 the necessary length above. 
 
 As a manual training problem, 
 the stilt affords an excellent exer- 
 cise in rounding the edge and in 
 chamfering. This process is described 
 in the tip-cat bat on pages 60 and 61 . 
 A light wood with a straight grain is 
 desirable. To avoid splitting at the 
 ends, a chamfer of at least ^" should be given the bottom edge. 
 Care must be taken in fastening the step to the upright that the 
 screws or nails do not split the step block. To avoid splitting bore 
 a small hole in the step where the screw enters. Foot loops can be 
 made with bands of thin metal as suggested in Fig. I, or the foot 
 can be fastened with cords or leather straps. The straps can be 
 
STILTS 
 
 71 
 
 STILTS OR TOM-WALKERS 
 
 SHOULDER STILT 
 
 
 '.' (( «i.o.)) £ 
 
 - y a -TOP %'BOTTom LEG STILT 
 
 C3 
 
 STOCK 
 
 Z.STEP5 FRon ONE. 
 
 piece 5"* i/ a <a" 
 
 2 UPRIGHTS 
 
 f"OR SHOULDER I &"x %x{,' 
 
 roR Hflno 1%'KFa"^ 
 
 FOFILE.G |$g'x%"*3' 
 
 THE TWO STEPS MAY BE 
 
 riADE r-non ohe bloca 
 
 scale: 
 
 -4"- 
 
 JL-^'CHRMFER 
 
 .f" 
 
 i 
 
 STRAP 
 
 BELOW 
 
 KNEE. 
 
 
 STRAP 
 
 FOR 
 ANKLE. 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 STRAP 
 
 FOU 
 FOOT 
 
 
 rie.3 
 
 ca 
 
 fastened to the uprights or slipped into loops made of leather or thin 
 metal. In Fig. 3 buckles are shown. These can be purchased at the 
 leather store or harness shop. They can easily be sewed or riveted 
 to leather strips about }" wide. 
 
72 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 • f> m 
 
 SHINNEY OR HOCKEY STICKS, PUCKS, AND SHIN GUARDS. 
 Hockey sticks should be not less than 36" and not more than 48" 
 long. An excellent stick can often be selected from the branch of a 
 tree. When made in the workshop, the process of modeling the handle 
 is seen in the drawing of the peggy bat shown on pages 60 and 61. A 
 longer striking surface than that shown in Figs. 3 and 4 is desirable, 
 but is not practical unless the grain of the wood follows the curve of the 
 turn, as would be the case in a piece cut from a tree or when the end 
 is steamed or soaked in water and bent into shape. Short grain must 
 be avoided. The handle should be rounded for at least 18" from the 
 end. For the younger boys and girls the handle should be not more 
 than 1" round or the size given in Fig. 4, while for the older boys 
 1|" round or the size shown in Fig. 3. 
 
 The pucks can be made any shape or of any material that will 
 roll well. Many prefer the round shape because it rolls. 
 
 Shin guards are a necessity. The guards should be made to fit 
 the person intending to wear them. They must be made short enough 
 so as not to interfere with the free movement of the ankle and the 
 knee. The width over all should taper so as to fit the leg. Figs. 1 and 
 2 are two arrangements which have been found to work out well for 
 boys of the upper grammar grades. To fasten together, lay the strips 
 in position as shown in drawing. Next lay the straps made of strong 
 leather at least J" wide and the necessary length, across the strips. 
 Four short nails or tacks about f " long should be used to fasten the 
 
SHINNEY OR HOCKEY STICKS, PUCKS, AND SHIN GUARDS 73 
 
 3 ,.l „? 
 
 %h±0^-tM^i 
 
 £2U 
 
 ^^ < 
 
 I- Id 3 
 
 <^> -i a 
 
 
 - ., 
 
 Id 
 
 ~ 
 
 J 
 
 _ 
 
 c 
 
 — ■«■ 
 
 o 
 
 
 <0 
 
 
 
 li 
 
 o 
 
 =3 
 
 a: 
 
 o 
 
 fC 
 
 
 _ I ■ '■' 
 
 ~— ICO 
 
 
 S 
 
 CO 
 
 > 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 
 <o 
 
 >- 
 LJ 
 
 
 fe^H 
 
 fl« 
 
 r* 
 
 /J 
 
 
 
 
 ..' 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 
 H 
 (0 
 
 \ 
 
 n 
 
 
 
 X-' 
 
 to 
 
 10 
 
 at 
 
 y. 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 h 
 (0 
 
 e: 
 
 § 
 
 strap on each strip of wood. After all the nails are hammered down 
 tight, turn the shin guard over, and bend the points of the nails over, 
 hammering them down firmly into the strips. Fasten a buckle to one 
 end of the straps, and punch small holes in the other end. 
 
74 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 BOW GUN. A straight grained hard wood such as white ash 
 should be used for the bow. A barrel hoop can be used. Cut the 
 strip to the desired width and thickness, and then taper it toward 
 the ends, keeping the bottom edge straight. Just how much to taper 
 it, will depend on the wood used. Test it while working it down. 
 When bent, the bow should make a strong curve with the ends curved 
 more than at the middle. When the cord is attached and pulled 
 back hard, the distance between the middle of the cord and the middle 
 of the bow should be the same as the distance between the trigger and 
 the hole in the barrel in which the bow is held. A heavy fish line or 
 rawhide makes an excellent bow-string. It is well to have this slightly 
 shorter than the bow, and it is best to have it arranged with a knot 
 and loop so that it can be slipped off, thus relieving the bow of the 
 continued strain. 
 
 The stock and barrel of the bow gun can be made of one piece, 
 but to save lumber in the construction of Fig. 1 they are each made 
 of separate pieces, the edges being glued up on the line indicated in 
 Fig. 2. Before gluing them together, the hole for the bow should be 
 cut. It is well to make the hole small enough so that the bow will 
 fit tightly. After gluing the stock and barrel together and cutting 
 to the outline, lay out the slot for the trigger and cut it out with an 
 auger bit and chisel. Then cut a semicircular groove along the 
 upper edge of the barrel as shown by the end view of the barrel in 
 Fig. 2. If this is too difficult, the groove can be formed by fasten- 
 
BOW GUN 
 
 75 
 
 BOWGUN 
 
 END 
 
 VIEW 
 
 M. 
 
 ing pieces of metal or thin wood on the sides of the barrel as shown in 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 If the cutting of the groove and slot is too difficult, the gun can 
 be made of three thicknesses of wood by using three J" or ^" pieces 
 
76 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 the full size of the gun. After sawing the outline, take the inside 
 thickness and cut enough away to allow for the slot of the trigger and 
 the groove of the barrel. 
 
 Cut out the trigger and fit it in so that, when cocked, it assumes the 
 position shown in Fig. 2. When the trigger touches the back of the slot, 
 the top of it should rest just underneath the cord as shown in Fig. 1 . 
 Next, slip the bow in place and with a brad driven in from the top edge 
 of the barrel, fasten so as to keep the bow exactly in the middle. Now 
 string up the bow and set the gun by pulling the cord back and slipping 
 it down against the shoulder just above the trigger. When the trigger 
 is pulled the cord should readily be raised above this shoulder, thus 
 releasing the tension of the bow. If everything is properly adjusted 
 the arrow should easily shoot 100 to 200 feet with a fairly true aim. 
 
 Arrows should be made with the front end slightly heavier 
 than the back. This can be done by forcing a little metal in the end 
 or by wrapping it with wire, or a strip can be cut lengthwise from a 
 shingle. Into the rear end, a paper rudder or feathers should be 
 inserted so that the arrow will carry straight to the mark. To put 
 in the paper guide, the end should be split slightly and a piece of stiff 
 paper slipped in. If feathers are used select straight ones and tie 
 them on with fine wire. A brad should be driven in the front end 
 and filed to a sharp point. This will enable the arrow to hold where it 
 strikes the target. This point should stick out only slightly, otherwise 
 it is rather dangerous. 
 
DARTS 77 
 
 A target as suggested in Fig. 5 can be made of soft wood or heavy 
 cardboard. The alternating circles should be painted in contrasting 
 colors. Targets are also made with a dirt or sand background by using 
 a shallow box and covering the top with a target painted cloth or very 
 tough paper. 
 
 DARTS. The illustration on the opposite page shows a few of 
 the many possible varieties of darts. In the upper part of the 
 photograph two methods of dart throwing are shown. In the 
 top one a stick made from a green bough is used, and in the 
 one below it a heavy rubber band is used to give the needed 
 elasticity. To hold the cord a notch is cut in one side near the 
 front end of the dart. This notch must be cut out on a sharp bevel 
 slanting inward toward the front end, and in such a manner that 
 a knotted cord will be held tightly in place when the cord is pulled 
 forward, but releases itself when the cord is pulled in the opposite 
 direction. In both of the above the cord is knotted and is seen 
 caught in the notch of the dart. In the upper one the dart is 
 hanging downward at the extreme right; while in the lower one 
 the dart is horizontal and the handle hangs downward. In this 
 one the dart is simply a small round stick with the forward end slightly 
 larger and heavier. The proper length of the cord must be deter- 
 mined by experimentation. The longer the stick the longer must 
 be the cord. 
 
 To throw the dart grasp the handle of the stick in the right hand 
 (unless left handed) and with the dart in the left hand pull hard mak- 
 ing the cord taut and the stick bowed. Now release the dart, and 
 with a quick motion of the arm throw the stick forward. The sudden 
 straightening of the stick and the added momentum given it by the 
 movement of the arm will throw the dart with considerable force a 
 great distance. 
 
 In the dart thrower in which a rubber band is used, the rubber is 
 tied to the handle with a piece of cord. Practically the same move- 
 ments are used in throwing as previously described. With practice 
 these darts can be thrown at a target with gratifying results. The 
 boys and girls enjoy this sport immensely. 
 
78 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 SWISS DINKEY BIRDS. In Fig. 1 is shown the arrangement 
 of the pivots and the cord of the pendulum which swinging sets the 
 head and tail in motion. The pivots should be located near the upper 
 corners of the body, and the ends of the cord should be fastened to the 
 
 inner ends of the head and tail by 
 means of a hole or a nail. The pivots 
 must work very freely, and the cords 
 must be arranged so that no friction 
 is created to retard the free work- 
 ing movement of the parts. If de- 
 sired two body pieces can be used, 
 and thus the movement of parts can 
 be hidden from view. The upper 
 part of the leg can be fastened in- 
 side the body pieces. By fastening 
 the stand to the side of the leg 
 piece, the stand can be placed on a 
 table and a book or other object 
 can be used to hold the bird up in 
 position, as shown in the front view 
 of Fig. 1 . The leg piece can be dis- 
 pensed with, as shown by the lower 
 figure in the photograph. The cord 
 for the pendulum should be long, 
 and the weight heavy enough to 
 exert a strong pull. 
 
 The body of Fig. 2 is made of 
 one piece. In each end of the body 
 is cut a slot within which the head or 
 tail piece is allowed to pivot. The 
 legs are made of two dowels which are fastened to a block or stand piece. 
 An opening of an inch or more is cut on one side of this stand and it 
 is fastened to a table top by means of a wedge as shown in the front 
 and side views of Fig. 2. In Fig. 1 the cord swings freely, but in 
 Fig. 2 with every swing of the pendulum the cord strikes the project- 
 
SWISS DINKEY BIRDS 
 
 79 
 
 SWISS DINKEY BIRDS 
 
 EH 
 
 FRONT 
 VIELW„ 
 
 AXA 
 
 ing part of the stand piece. This produces a somewhat erratic move- 
 ment to the head and tail pieces. By slightly changing the meas- 
 urements of one or more parts, different effects can be produced. 
 Experimentation is necessary to work out satisfactory movements. 
 
80 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 SWAYING FIGURES. The principle underlying the movement 
 of these figures is the familiar arrangement of the knife and pencil as 
 shown in Fig. 2. The " honest woodsman " (Fig. 1) can be outlined 
 and sawed out with the coping saw. One edge of the upright piece 
 
 is notched to resemble saw teeth. 
 The arms can be made of two pieces. 
 They can be nailed to the sides of the 
 saw, and the body can be nailed di- 
 rectly to the ends of these arm pieces, 
 or the ends can be set into the body 
 piece as suggested in Fig. I. If 
 nailed directly to the body, the arm 
 pieces should be larger, about f " or 
 |" thick, so as to avoid splitting. 
 One method of construction is to 
 make the arms of one piece with 
 a slip joint at one end and a mor- 
 tise and tenon joint at the other, 
 as is shown in the lower part of Fig. 
 1 . The pivots set in the bottom of 
 the feet are made by driving in 
 brads and filing the brads to sharp 
 points. It is necessary that these 
 points be of equal length. If varia- 
 tions in the proportion of the parts 
 are made, it will be found that the 
 longer the saw and cord and the 
 shorter the arms, the more upright 
 will be the position of the body. 
 The weight should be fairly heavy. 
 The dancing elephant (Fig. 3) is a suggestion that might be applied 
 to many animal forms. The whole figure can be made of one piece 
 as suggested in Fig. 3. The figure of this elephant is simply the modi- 
 fication of a rectangular piece. The animal can be made much more 
 interesting and better proportioned if the body and head are made 
 
 ^^^^^^m " ^^H 
 
 
 
 ft \ ^MH w ' ^3 
 
SWAYING FIGURES 
 
 81 
 
 SWAYING FIGURES 
 
 FIG. 3 front 
 
 VIE.W 
 SIDE VIEW ue-^w 
 
 ARMS OF WOODSMAN 
 made: of one: pielce: 
 
 (a 
 
 in one piece and the legs are made separate and fastened on each side 
 so as to pivot. The pivot should be tight so that various positions 
 can be assumed and held. The wire should be bent until the figure 
 assumes a natural position. 
 
82 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 FALLING SEESAW AND LADDER. In making the zigzag 
 pole for the falling seesaw or teeter, shown in Fig. I, care must be 
 taken in getting the width of the zigzag even. The end of the pole 
 can be nailed and glued to the base pieces, and the upright pieces can 
 
 be cross-lapped or simply crossed. 
 The seesaw as shown is made rever- 
 sible. When the beam has worked 
 down to the bottom, turn upside 
 down and the beam will work down 
 again. The figures must pivot 
 loosely on the nail, and the lower 
 part of the figure must be heavier 
 than that above the pivot, so that 
 they will always right themselves 
 with heads up when the seesaw is 
 turned upside down. The side brace 
 is not shown in the photograph, but 
 has been found necessary to make 
 a strong piece of work. A little 
 wax will enable the beam to work 
 with less friction. Within certain 
 limitations the pupils can each cut 
 and draw their own figures. 
 
 The falling ladder or falling 
 chinaman shown in Fig. 2 and in the 
 lower part of the photograph can be 
 worked to any size desired. It is 
 highly important that the project- 
 ing nails be placed evenly. As with the seesaw, a little wax will avoid 
 friction. The rungs and sides of the ladder are usually drawn on a flat 
 piece of wood, but cross-lap joints can be made if a real ladder is 
 desired. Have the nails project far enough for the figure to run 
 between the heads of the nails and the front surface of the ladder. If 
 desired, the figures for both these problems may be cut out of heavy 
 cardboard. 
 
FALLING SEESAW AND LADDER 
 
 83 
 
 FALLING SEESAW aud LADDER 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 STOCK, 
 
 U\DDO\ Z^'X&'Vj*."., 
 TIGURE. V X#."X*fc 
 
 •ojjg H-l'H SIDE. VIEW Or BEWI 
 
 _0_ 
 
 Be sure to get the curve for the chinaman's cape perfectly even, 
 with both sides exactly alike. The ladder can be made longer, but the 
 position of the nails must not be changed unless the dimensions of 
 the figures are made larger or smaller in exactly the same proportion. 
 
84 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 LOOMS. The simplest form of a loom can be made of a piece of 
 cardboard with ends notched to catch the warp threads. A simple 
 wooden loom is made with butt joint as shown in Fig. 2. A lap joint 
 is shown in Fig. 1 . A packing box may also be used by driving nails 
 in two parallel edges of the open end. 
 
 To hold the warp threads in place, make saw grooves or drive in 
 nails. The grooves can be sawed in both pieces at the same time by 
 fastening them together in the vise. The position of all grooves 
 should be marked off from the rule without moving it. This insures 
 having the correct number of grooves within the desired length. Fig. 1 
 shows the grooves made with the saw. They should be not less than 
 j" apart. Care must be taken in sawing the grooves. They must 
 not be more than f " in depth, else the wood between the grooves will 
 be liable to break out. If brads are used, they must be driven in 
 carefully lest the great number of them on a line split the wood. In 
 Fig. 1 steel rods |" or ^" in diameter, located just under the outside 
 threads, are used to keep the cloth a uniform width. If wires are not 
 used, considerable care must be taken to keep the cloth the same 
 width throughout. 
 
 The loom as planned in Fig. 2 is made with a butt joint by nailing 
 the cross pieces to the ends of the side pieces. 
 
 The loom should be designed to suit the widest size of cloth desired ; 
 the full width or length, however, need not be used. After the cloth 
 is woven, slip the thread off, then cut and tie the ends two at a time. 
 
LOOMS 
 
 85 
 
 LOOMS 
 
 •i^i* 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 •m 
 
 STOCK 
 
 2 5IDES__I&" y-%^11' 
 
 ZENDS 2." X 3 /e"X7" 
 
 I I ROM RODS IO>i"LOMG 
 
 /•WIRE! 
 
 ^ 
 
 r 
 
 &i 
 
 -side: vieiw 
 
 T~7f" 
 
 5 
 
 -H: 
 
 at" 
 
 _Ui 1 
 
 -H 
 
 -■-W 
 
 WIRE, 
 
 2 
 
 z: 
 £3 
 
 _r4 
 
 _i 
 
 in 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 i 
 
 SCALE 
 
 I ' I ' M I ' I 
 d" 
 
 TOP VI E.W 
 
 TT - 
 i 
 
 1*7*1 
 
 cz 
 
 STOCK 
 2 SIDES fJi" X%"XIZ" 
 
 Z ENDS 2" K/i"X8" 
 
 needle: J/a" x y & " xio" 
 
 TT 
 
 -M 
 
 JL 
 
 ■IN- 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 3U 
 
 T^ 
 
 %." » 18 BRf\D3 
 
 FIG. ^ 
 
 /C0\ 
 
 The threads running lengthwise are called the warp, and the threads 
 crossing these are called the woof or weft. A strong string or fine cord 
 such as carpet warp should always be used for the warp threads ; 
 while raffia, yarn, or cord may be used for the woof. 
 
86 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 ROOT-CAGES. The root-cages herewith suggested are wooden 
 frames with glass sides. In Fig. 1 the glass is set into grooves sawed 
 in the bottom and the end pieces. The grooves can be very quickly 
 cut if a circular saw can be used ; but, if this is not available, an ordinary 
 hand saw can be used. Old photograph negatives serve economically 
 for the glass sides. The film can be readily cleaned off by putting 
 the negative in a hot water solution of sal soda or other alkali and 
 then scraping. 
 
 To construct the root-cage suggested in Fig. 1 , slip the glass into the 
 grooves of the end pieces, hold them firmly in position, and locate the 
 braces. Then slip the glass out and nail on the braces. Next slide the 
 glass in place again, mark the location of the bottom, slip the glass 
 out, and nail the bottom in place, after which slip the glass in place 
 again. It should fit in tightly, so that if the cage is turned upside down 
 the glass will not drop out. A strip can be nailed lengthwise along 
 each side at the top to hold the glass in place. If the root-cage is to 
 be used for a vivarium, a cover should be provided. For this purpose 
 a piece of perforated sheet metal or wire screen should be fastened 
 down over the top. If hinged this can be used as a door. A nail 
 driven and bent over will serve as a catch. If used for plants, a piece 
 of cardboard should be slipped up against the glass sides to exclude 
 the light, otherwise the light will drive the roots away from the glass. 
 
 Fig. 2 shows a simpler construction of root-cage. No grooves are 
 used, the edge of the glass fitting closely against the surface of the 
 
ROOT-CAGES 
 
 87 
 
 ROOT GAGES 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 -SAW GROOVES [£" DEEP 
 
 TO HOLD GLASS Q*-DRAlNflGE: HOLE. = ck 
 
 STOCK 
 
 BOTTOM 
 
 a" x ^-" \3" 
 
 2. EHDS 
 
 -2. BRACES 
 Ve," X >4" X 8^." 
 
 £SIDELQ 
 GLASS 5" /s 7" 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 EMD VIEW 
 
 SCALE 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 M_ 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I BOTTOM 
 
 z'/£ x%" xs^" 
 
 2. ENDS 
 
 I" %^i" X4" 
 
 Z 6RACES 
 
 2 5T0 PS 
 
 ?h" xVx 6"" 
 
 2.SIDL5 
 GLAS3 4" X 6"' 
 
 EMDWEW 
 
 wood. Nails are used to hold the glass in place, but a strip of wood 
 is much better. In Fig. 2, strips of wood are suggested along the bot- 
 tom edges. To prevent the glass from slipping out if the cage is turned 
 upside down, a thin strip should be fastened across the top at each end. 
 
88 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 BIRD HOUSES. A simple bird house can be made from a 
 jar or can, as suggested in Fig. 1. A back piece should be attached 
 to the bird house if it is to be fastened against an upright surface ; 
 or it may be suspended by means of wire or cord as suggested in 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 Many various types of construction may be used for the house, 
 one of which is suggested in Fig. 2. The house may be built up of 
 sticks of wood like a log cabin. The roof can be thatched or shingled. 
 
 A box can be used as shown in the photograph. If the box is large, 
 partitions can be put in and in this way compartments can be made 
 to accommodate a number of birds. One opening only should be made 
 for each compartment so that the inhabitants can keep out intruders. 
 A hole not more than 1" in diameter should be used for wrens and 
 chickadees, and 2" for bluebirds and robins. If large birds such as 
 doves are to be housed, the opening should be about 3" by 4". The 
 interior of the house can be readily accessible by hinging the side. A 
 peephole can be arranged to observe the habits of the birds. It is 
 desirable to have the surface of the wood rough. 
 
 The following suggestions are by an authority on the care of birds. 
 ' The proper size for a bird house is 6" square floor space and 8" 
 high. Old weathered boards should be used, or if painted they should 
 be made the color of an old tree trunk. A single opening near the top 
 should be made, 2" in diameter for most birds; although for wrens 
 and chickadees one with 1" diameter is sufficient. 
 
BIRD HOUSES 
 
 89 
 
 BIRD HOUSES 
 
 5T0CK FOR WREN HOUSE. 
 
 I BACK i"K%" X a" I FR0MT_2." X%" X.4-" 
 
 I B0TTOM_rx%"X a&" l ROOF_ 4v4Tx?6"X9" 
 TIM CAM ABOUT dOX^" I R00F_4" X^"X9" 
 
 i 
 I 
 
 'r- 
 
 n 
 
 -8i 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 c 
 
 SCALE 
 
 T 
 ■3" 
 
 STOCK 
 
 a END&_ 
 Jl SIDES 
 
 I mDGE._l&"x%"x/o" 
 4" X %" X7X' I BOTTOn.6 " X 3/a" X 8/*." 
 .5" x-a/e" X 6 " jlroof: $)£ X%" x 3" 
 
 
 'ROMT VI FW 
 
 51 DII VIEW 
 
 JSL. 
 
 " A house of this kind will serve to keep out English sparrows, and 
 for wrens the house should be set in a shady place." l For descriptions 
 of bird houses, see Wm. Noyes' Design and Construction in Wood and 
 A. F. Siepert's Bird' Houses Boys can Build. 
 
 1 Hodge, Nature-Study and Life, p. 334. 
 
90 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 BOX TRAPS. The box traps herewith shown are planned for 
 rats or mice. If desired for mice only, reduce to one half the sizes 
 given. If desired for rabbits or squirrels, they should be made about 
 twice the sizes given. The box made of metal is more durable than 
 wood. Small packing boxes, a convenient size, can be used, and the 
 whole interior of the box can be lined with metal. If so, this should 
 be tacked in before assembling. If the box is not lined, strips of sheet 
 iron or tin should be run around all the open edges, and the holes 
 provided for the trigger and for ventilation. In Fig. 1 the catch is 
 fastened to the under side of the box. The door and catch may be 
 made of one piece. If so, the top piece should be made about three 
 inches longer and tapered so as to catch the end of the trigger. Note 
 that the top edge of the back is beveled for clearance so as to allow 
 the top piece to be raised up high enough to catch the trigger. If a 
 butt hinge fastened to the back and the under side of the lid is used, 
 this bevel is not necessary. 
 
 The trigger can be made of a strip of wood, metal, or a wire ; the 
 one suggested in Fig. 1 is of wire, and the other two are of wood. The 
 trigger is best made of metal, because if the animal is in the box any 
 length of time the end of the wooden ones will be gnawed up. The 
 hole in the back of the box should only be large enough to insert the 
 trigger. 
 
 When the rodent is caught put the box in a bucket of water for a 
 few minutes to drown it. If kept in the water long, it will take a 
 
BOX TRAPS 
 
 91 
 
 BOX TRAPS 
 
 SGRL-El 
 
 -rr 
 
 T-rr. 
 
 6" 
 
 TT 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I TOP . 4'/e"x3/V 
 
 I B0TT0M-4-H- n X3A" 
 
 I BACK 4#'X34-" 
 
 I FR0NT_4/8"X3^)." 
 I SIDES_5" X W 
 I TRIGGER WlftE 7" 
 ICATCH_l>i"X ,!4" 
 1 BRACE._I#' X I'/zl 
 
 X I3&" 
 X |I>1" 
 X 3/zJ' 
 X 3/a." 
 Xll/i' 
 LONG 
 X 4-" 
 X 4#' 
 
 
 WIRETFUGGELf^ 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I FRONT- 4%" X 3*4" X 3%" 
 I BP»Cr\_4^"X %." X 9^' 
 
 I TOP 44#X3^."x ||" 
 
 I BOTTOM- 4-H" X 3/4" X ll 3 X' 
 2.SIDt5_J^'X^." KllW 
 I CATCH _ !/i" X <A-" A I >£' 
 I TRIGGER /z," X %" X 4- " 
 I BRACE.--IV* lA'X4-^!' 
 
 FIG. 3 
 
 I BOTTOM . 
 2. SIDES. 
 I DOOR _ 
 
 I CATCH _ 
 
 5T0CK 
 
 4Ka."X W xio/s." 
 
 5%"X ^*." X II " 
 
 4 3 /a"x i/z." X644" 
 
 , l)4"X. i^-" *9&" 
 
 .!/*." X 3^" X3^" 
 
 I TRIGGER _ 
 
 2. PvUBBER BANDS ABOUT 6 " LONG 
 
 I TIM CAN —ABOUT 4-/*," DlflM- X9 
 
 SIDE. VIEW 
 
 EMD VIEW 
 
 TRlflGE.Fl 
 
 J&L 
 
 long time for the wood to dry out. To have the box open and shut 
 easily, the top and front pieces are made ^" narrower than the inside 
 of the box. Note also, that the grain of wood in the back and front 
 pieces runs up and down, that is, in the same direction as the top and 
 
92 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 bottom pieces. This is done so that all of the pieces when wet will 
 swell equally in width, and thus allow the box at all times to open and 
 shut easily. A little wax should be applied to the sides if they stick 
 in the least. 
 
 The construction of Fig. 2 is almost similar to Fig. 1 . The connec- 
 tion between the catch and trigger is made with a string run through 
 a screw eye fastened at the top of the back piece. To hold the upper 
 end of the catch, a notch which is cut in the middle of the back piece 
 is indicated in Fig. 2. A little piece of wood may be fastened to 
 the back instead of cutting the notch. The under edge of this piece 
 will hold the catch down in place. Drive a nail into the end of the 
 trigger and sharpen it to a point so that the bait can easily be fas- 
 tened to it. If the piece of wood for the trigger is long, the end of 
 it may be sharpened instead of using the nail. In Figs. 1 and 2, as 
 soon as the trap is sprung by a movement of the trigger, the top and 
 front pieces fall down into place and the rodent is securely caught, 
 unless it has a chance to eat its way out. 
 
 In Fig. 3, a tin can is used for the box. Pieces of wood are used 
 at the sides and bottom and a brad is used at the end to hold the can 
 up into place. The door pivots at the top by means of nails driven 
 through the sides at the top corner. Rubber bands slipped over pro- 
 jecting nails on each side connect the door to the side of the box. A 
 slight movement at the bait end of the trigger will spring the trap 
 and the rubber bands will bang the door shut. The whole box can 
 be put in water. This is not necessary, however, if the heads of the 
 nails which hinge the door are left projecting and are loose enough 
 to pull out. Pull out the nails, slip off the rubber bands ; and the 
 can and door can be lifted out together. Lower it into a bucket of 
 water with the lid in place and against the side or bottom of the bucket ; 
 then slip the door away. Thfs method avoids soaking the trap in 
 the water when drowning the rodent. 
 
 Another kind of box trap can be made, somewhat similar to that 
 shown in Fig. 3 on page 91, without the use of the rubber band, the 
 door dropping in place by means of its own weight. Either style of 
 trigger can be used. If a box is used a slot can be cut in the top near 
 
BOX TRAPS 93 
 
 the end large enough for the door to fit. If a tin can is used as sug- 
 gested in Fig. 3, the sides can be made longer and strips or nails put 
 on the inside to form grooves for the door, which must fit loosely so 
 as to drop quickly as soon as the trap is sprung. A strip of wood or 
 stiff wire is used for the connecting bar between the trigger and the 
 door, At one end it fits into the notch of the trigger as shown in Fig. 3. 
 At the other end it fits into a notch or shallow hole (this can be bored 
 with a drill) on the inside surface of the door. A narrow strip of 
 wood or projecting wire fastened to the top near the middle supports 
 the bar, which in turn holds the trigger and door in position when the 
 trap is set. A slight movement at the bait end of the trigger slips the 
 bar out of position, and causes the door to drop down into place. 
 After the rodent is caught the can can be lifted, with door in place over 
 the end of the can, and slipped into a bucket of water as suggested 
 at the bottom of page 92. 
 
 The barrel trap which is shown on the left of the illustration on 
 page 26 is made by means of tying a piece of heavy wrapping paper 
 over the open top of a barrel. Food should be put on top of this 
 paper for a few nights so that the rats get in the habit of feeding there. 
 After they have gotten the habit, make slits in the paper. The paper 
 should be stiff enough to hold their weight until they get near the 
 center, when they will drop through the slits into the barrel, and the 
 paper will go back into place. The food must be fastened to the paper 
 so that it will not fall into the barrel. In a large warehouse where 
 several of these traps were set hundreds of rats were caught in one 
 night. 
 
 A small trap constructed somewhat like the above can be made 
 from a tin can. Select a large baking powder or coffee can, one 
 with a lid made of thin tin. Make two cuts across the center of the 
 lid at right angles to each other as shown in the illustration on page 26. 
 The opening must be made so that the rodent can easily slip through 
 it to secure the bait put inside, but cannot get out because the edges 
 of the tin slant inward. The rodents that are caught can be drowned 
 by placing the can in a bucket of water, and afterward taken out by 
 removing the lid. 
 
94 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 RING TOSS GAMES. The ring toss game, or quoits, is appli- 
 cable to many tool exercises which involve the cross-lap joint, verti- 
 cal boring, lathe turning, and box construction. 
 
 Fig. 1 is one type of a box construction. An empty packing 
 box with lock corners can be used. Saw the box to the desired height 
 and then nail the top and bottom on. Next saw this box in two, thus 
 separating the bottom and lid. Put lock blocks in each corner as 
 suggested in Fig. 1 , or run a thin strip all around the inside of the box, 
 letting it project about |". Bore holes for the pegs or uprights through 
 the top of the box and part way into the bottom. The pegs can be 
 fastened in permanently, or the pegs can be slipped out and put inside 
 of the box together with the rings as shown in the photograph. 
 
 Fig. 2 represents a cross-lap joint and the use of 5 pegs. 
 
 The use of human or animal figures, such as the tossing of a collar 
 or hat-shaped ring on the figure of a clown which has been sawed with 
 a coping saw or turned on the lathe, the tossing of a bracelet or ring 
 on the outstretched arm of a figure of a woman, or the tossing 
 of a rope ring, or lasso, on the head of animal figures, all such add 
 interest to the making. Group problems can be worked out by having 
 one large figure and several small ones fastened to a board base. 
 
 Rings can be made of a variety of materials. Rope J" or f " in 
 diameter can be shaped and spliced in the form of a ring, and sewed 
 or wrapped with cord or raffia. For a 5" ring, use 18" of rope and 
 splice the ends for 2" or 3". If wire is used, it should be more than 
 
RING TOSS GAMES 
 
 95 
 
 FUNG TOSS GAMES 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I LOCK JOINT BOX ABOUT 9" X 3" X 12." 2 BASES_ 
 
 4 CORNER BLOCKS— 3,4-" X.%"X£" - 2. FEET 
 
 I DOWEL PEG . .VDIAn XI2." 5 DOWELS 
 
 STOCK 
 
 2." X $4 " X 1 2." 
 
 i" X94." x. Z." 
 
 4-^"xa" audi- %!'xiz." 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 ^" in diameter so as to be heavy enough to carry well. Rings of wood 
 can be sawed out with the coping saw or turned up on the lathe. 
 
 A pattern for quoits can be made and cast in metal. If of iron, a 
 5" or 5J" disc with a 2*' or 2|" hole and J" in thickness is a good size. 
 
96 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 RATTLERS. The ratchet for the clicker as shown in Fig. 1 can 
 be made with any number of teeth. To make the eight-tooth ratchet 
 as herewith shown, select a piece of wood not too thick so that it can 
 be cut out with the coping saw, cut it to 2\ u square, and lay out with 
 center lines each way and also diagonals. These lines will cut the 
 surface up into eight equal parts. With a pair of compasses or dividers 
 draw circles for the base and outer edge of the teeth, and next lay out 
 the teeth similar to the ratchet shown in Fig. 1. The center hole 
 for the axle should be bored before cutting it to shape. The ratchet 
 must fit tightly to the axle. To lay out a ratchet with .six teeth, first 
 lay out the circles and then divide into six equal parts. This can be 
 done by stepping the radius six times around the circumference of 
 the circle. The radius of any circle will always go around the cir- 
 cumference just six times. The ratchet can then be laid out and cut 
 to shape as before. The most convenient ratchet is that made from 
 a spool as shown in Fig. 2. 
 
 After the ratchet is finished, make a piece long enough for the 
 handle and washer all in one ; then find the center at each end and bore 
 holes f" or \ u in depth just large enough for the axle to fit in neatly. 
 Now, saw the lengths for the handle and the washer one off each 
 end, and cut the axle the desired length, which must be the outside 
 thickness of the box plus the depth of each hole previously bored into 
 the handle and the washer. The reason for these dimensions can 
 
RATTLERS 
 
 97 
 
 RATTLERS 
 
 FRONT VIEW CLICKER SIDE VIEW 
 
 SCALE. 
 
 T" 
 
 WIMPLE 
 
 i_u_ 
 
 *i 
 
 
 i 
 
 h— 
 
 BLOCK 
 
 BLOCK 
 
 "TT" 
 
 rA 
 
 : 4 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 * + 
 
 v9 H 
 
 .J x - 
 
 /C" 
 
 F\G.X 
 
 *i< 
 
 SPOOL RATCHET 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I RATCHET— I '/i"Dl AM. X >£ " 
 
 I FRONT l!4" X^"X6/i" 
 
 I BACK l-fe* 
 
 X SIDES V/i. 
 
 I AXLE. 3 / 8 ' 
 
 X^"X 6 
 X%"X 9 " 
 plAh.TU/T 
 I HANDLE _JH" DIAH.X.3^" 
 I WASH ER _3A " 1AM. X % " 
 ( BLOCK — -l'/i" X7t"X 3 " 
 
 i block v/ii' 7<~f&y-s \ " 
 
 SPOOL RATTLER 
 
 #- H- 
 
 W r 
 
 i_L 
 
 FIG.4- 
 
 EIHDVIEW 
 
 RATTLER STICI\ 
 
 M. 
 
 readily be seen in the front view of Fig. 1 . Now fasten the axle securely 
 into the handle. Next, get out the two side pieces. Bore the holes 
 for the axle through the two pieces at one time, and large enough so 
 that they will revolve freely on the axle. Wax the inside of these 
 
98 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 holes, but be careful not to get any wax on the axle, else it may make 
 it impossible to securely fasten the ratchet to the axle. Next slip 
 one of the side pieces on the axle, and then fasten the ratchet very 
 securely to the axle. Now nail the two blocks to this side piece. The 
 thickness of the blocks will depend on the thickness of the ratchet ; 
 they should be slightly thicker than the ratchet. Next fasten the 
 remaining side piece in place, and then fasten the washer securely to 
 the end of the axle. A nail or cotter pin can take the place of the 
 washer. Now nail the back piece in place. The end of it should be 
 slipped up close to the ratchet, but not close enough to touch. Next 
 fasten the front strip in place. It is best to make this of a wood that 
 does not split readily. Slip one end of this front piece up toward the 
 ratchet so that the point of the teeth will lift the free end, and as soon 
 as it clears the point of the teeth it will bang back into position as 
 shown in the side view, Fig. 1. If set too far up, the strain on the 
 front piece is soon liable to split it into pieces. This strip must be 
 nailed securely to the long block at the end, but not to the short block 
 in the middle. Before fastening it securely, it is well to first tack it 
 lightly in place and test it to see if it clicks satisfactorily. If necessary, 
 the back piece can be dispensed with. The advantage of this piece, 
 however, is that the hollow box thus formed gives a greater volume of 
 sound. 
 
 The spool rattler shown in Fig. 3 is made by simply taking an 
 empty spool, running doubled cord through the center, and fastening it 
 around one side as seen in the drawing. Next, take a small stick, slip 
 it between the two thicknesses of cord and twist it tightly by means of 
 the stick. This is shown in Fig. 3 and in the photograph. The 
 tension of the cord pushes one end of the stick tightly against the 
 spool. By pushing the upper end down and then releasing it, a tapping 
 effect is produced. If this arrangement is attached to a hollow cylinder 
 or box, a greater volume of sound can be obtained. 
 
 Fig. 4 is the drawing of a rattler stick or "bone." Two or three 
 of these comprise a set. They are held between the fingers and rattled 
 in the palm of the hand. Two modifications of these can be seen in 
 the drawing. 
 
RATTLERS 
 
 99 
 
 , ^ -. -■; q 
 
 ID HF~* 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 SB Hk^^ <: 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 .... ° > •■ : -^ 
 
 
 
 > : jHj 
 
 
 - 
 
 ...s^r r : -'^ 
 
 beS^^^SsshB B? 
 
 I'.jU 
 
 
 
 
 
 m ■^'fl 
 
 
 
 
 ■ " : : .■■. /■ ■ - . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■E HF^I 
 
 
 
 
 ■ ■■■■■ ■■■..■ ,, . . . . . , . 
 
 • J^^H—^* 
 
 ^w 
 
 • •' -' : ;*;i 
 
 
 ; '? ■ '-M 
 
 ■kP 
 
 irr^-r 
 
 -- 
 
 — -..-..-,-...,. 
 
 [' T[ 
 
 
 wMT' 
 
 
 
 BpsffeaBBJgM 
 
 
 
 
 ■ ' ' ' 
 
 ■■:: ; ■■■■ .■ , ■■,-.: : 
 . . " : - ' ■ -.■■.,. : - 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mm ^1 
 
 
 saasii 
 
 
 itttfiMMMtttfe 
 
 '; 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ,; vl fc" ':^ ' 'i 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^S^^^^WBSBI 
 
 glill 
 
 ■£• -, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 \r, •■$■■■'. ^^^F^SI 
 
 3uV 
 
 
 ...' 
 
 
 For the smaller rattler shown above, of which both the end and 
 side views are seen, take a If" round or square block and bore a large 
 size hole about 2" deep in one end to make it resonant. Next cut a 
 slot about 1|" long and j" wide in this end. The handle can be 
 shaped up round. Next take an 8" length of wire that is not too soft. 
 Steel spring wire is best. A wire stay from a corset is excellent. Now 
 bore a small hole through the diameter about 4" from the bored end. 
 Slip the wire in this hole and fasten it down to the sides with double 
 pointed tacks about §!' from where it projects from the hole. The 
 ends of the wire should stand off from the block about an inch as shown 
 above. Fasten on two pieces of wood or metal for the tongues. Holes 
 can be bored and the wire inserted, or they can be tied or tacked on. 
 
 Another form of rattler is what is known as a "Chinese drum." 
 It is simply a small hollow cylinder or prism made of a heavy strong 
 paper into which, before it is sealed, are put some small hard particles 
 such as peas or shot. 
 
 The lower piece in the illustration, which is a pop gun, speaks for 
 itself. When the piston is pulled out, the cork at the end of the string 
 is set into the end of the hole ; and when the piston is pushed in sharply 
 the air forces the cork out with a popping sound. If the piston fits 
 snugly but not too tight, a little practice makes it pop. 
 
100 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 AEROPLANE AND GLIDER. Buoyancy and balance are 
 essential requirements in the construction of aeroplanes and gliders. 
 The strips for the aeroplane, Fig. 1 , should be made of bamboo splints. 
 If bamboo is not available, a light-weight straight-grained wood such 
 as spruce or white pine should be used. Cut the pieces to the desired 
 size and tie the corners of the plane frames with a fine thread. Slight 
 indentations or notches where the thread crosses will keep the pieces 
 in place. After the frames are made, cover them with a light-weight 
 cloth or thin tough paper. Oiled silk which is sold by the druggists 
 is best because it is waterproof, but it is rather expensive. The 
 frames should be fastened to the center beam in the same way that 
 the corners were fastened together. A few spots of glue will help 
 to hold it firmly. After this is dry attach a cord from the front 
 corners to the center beam and pull taut until the corners of the 
 front plane are raised as shown in Fig. 1 . By means of propellers and 
 a rubber band for the motive power, an aeroplane can be made such 
 as is shown in the center figure of the photograph. The propeller, 
 of a thin metal, can be made as suggested in Fig. 4 on page 35. 
 
 The construction of the glider shown in Fig. 2 has been suggested 
 by Mr. Hackett, Supervisor of Manual Arts, Reading, Pa. The 
 rudder and planes should be made of stiff, tough paper. Slot the 
 end of the shaft and insert the rudder; then, with glue and nails, 
 fasten the planes to the center shaft. The forward or smaller one 
 should be turned up slightly, and the back one hollowed as shown in 
 
AEROPLANE AND GLIDER 
 
 101 
 
 AEROPLANE AND GLIDER 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 side: view 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 FIG. 2. 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 FRONT 
 VIEW 
 
 STOCK 
 I CENTER BEAM 
 
 9CX MC X30" 
 2. SIDES OF PLANE 
 
 3f 6 "X WX/5" 
 I ENDS OF PLANE 
 
 MC X !4c" X 6 " 
 I SIDES OF PLANE! 
 
 %"X K 6 "X J8" 
 £ EMD5 0F PLANE. 
 
 %"Xkc," £ 6 " 
 I COVER FOR PLANE 
 
 7"X/6" 
 I COVER FOR; PLANE 
 
 7"X2.I" 
 
 .STOCK 
 
 I SHAFT 3/ /t " x 3^" X 9 » 
 
 I FRUDDER Z " X ZYi' 
 
 I PLANE 3"X6" 
 
 I PLANE 2.H"X 4-" 
 
 I RUBBERBAHC* 
 
 J2L 
 
 the side view of Fig. 2. To put the glider in motion hold the shaft 
 in the fingers and throw it forward ; or insert one end of a rubber band 
 in the notch on the under side of the shaft and stretch as in a sling- 
 shot. When released the glider will shoot forward. 
 
102 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 ANIMALS WITH MOVABLE PARTS. Figs. 1 and 3 show pos- 
 sibilities of cam movements made with a brad nailed to the axle. 
 Fig. 2 shows a balancing or pendulum effect. In Fig. 1, the head 
 pivots on the far end with the cam action in the middle part. In the 
 photograph, the second figure on the top row shows one of the sides 
 removed with the head raised by the nail and the head just ready to 
 fall. In Fig. 3, the head pivots in the middle with the cam movement 
 at the end. This type works easier than that in Fig. 1 , but it is impor- 
 tant that the lower end be the heavier so as to keep the head in an 
 upright position. The bottom of the head must also be heavier in the 
 balancing type as shown in Fig. 2. If it is desired that the tail move, 
 it may be fitted up as suggested for the head. 
 
 All movable parts must turn freely. A wire may be used for the 
 axle instead of a rod. For the cam, a projection can be soldered to 
 the wire, or the wire can be bent " U "-shaped in the middle to give 
 the cam effect and thus take the place of the projection. The " U ' 
 shape or crank projection pushes the movable part back and forth. 
 
 Wheels can be turned on the lathe, or sawed from a round piece of 
 wood, or made with a washer cutter, or spools and button molds used. 
 
 Animal forms made to stand are suggested by the goat, donkey, 
 and elephant in the photograph. The body part can be made solid * 
 with grooves cut in the ends to receive the head or tail. The head 
 can fit between the two sides of the body, and the legs and arms 
 fitted on each side. The movable parts should not swing freely, but 
 
ANIMALS WITH MOVABLE PARTS 
 
 103 
 
 Anif1AL5 WITH" HEAD MOVEMENTS 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 Z EARS. 
 I HEAD_ 
 I TAIL _ 
 
 . %" x /a" x 2&" 
 
 . 1 3 /4" x %" * £>$" ' 
 
 2. BODIES 4" * %" X 7/4." 
 
 4 WHEELS 2." DlftH- X !4" 
 
 I AXLE DOWEL 2. W LONG 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 ,-ggg 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 SCALE it 
 
 CD-- 
 
 I HEAD. 
 2. BODIES- 
 
 -lJi"x 3 / 6 "K 3" 
 
 1 CEnTtf^ piexc_i,V X>1-'"X Z"„ 
 
 3 WHEELS I J£" ft^" X 1/i. 
 
 I HEAD 
 
 2. BODIES 
 
 1' Tail 
 
 3 WHEELS. 
 
 -1% *% u * 4 
 .2." XJ4." X 6" 
 
 -1/2. Di'-\n.y% >i 
 
 /& 
 
 must fit tightly on the pivot so that they may hold in any position. 
 The toys made by the Dux Toy Company, of Concord, N. H., offer 
 many suggestions for problems, such as the movable jaw, head, or leg, 
 of dogs, ducks, frogs, alligators, grasshoppers, chickens, or birds. 
 
104 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 SPREADER — PRESS — CASE. The insect spreader as sug- 
 gested in Fig. 1 is lined with cork or soft wood or cardboard. Note 
 that the top pieces are inclined slightly toward the middle. To con- 
 struct, first bevel the top pieces and then fasten them to the cross 
 pieces. Next fasten on the pieces of cork or soft wood, and lastly 
 nail on the bottom. Dr. Hodge's chapter on " Insect Study " should 
 be read before attempting work in mounting. 1 
 
 The construction of the mounting case is shown in Fig. 3. On a 
 piece of glass the desired size of the case fasten narrow strips of wood 
 just the thickness of the largest specimen. Fasten the strips to the 
 edge of the glass with shellac, and you have a box with glass bottom 
 and wooden sides the depth of the largest specimen. The specimen 
 should be fastened to the glass with minute drops of glue where it 
 touches the glass. Glue sometimes dries so hard that it scales off on 
 the glass. To prevent this, twenty drops of glycerine should be 
 added to each ounce of glue. After the specimens are set, cover the 
 box with a piece of glass just the size of the bottom piece and bind 
 the two glass covers to the box with a strip of gummed passepartout 
 tape around the edge wide enough to hide the wooden frame. This 
 method of mounting suggested by Dr. Hodge enables one to see both 
 sides of the insects, which is a great advantage over the old plan. 
 
 In the construction of the press as suggested in Fig. 2, two nails 
 should be put in each lap. The nails should be long enough to be 
 
 1 C. F. Hodge, Nature-study in Life, p. 56. 
 
SPREADER — PRESS — CASE 
 
 105 
 
 SPREADER- PRESS- CASE! 
 
 — -,n 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 lr— 
 
 j, 
 
 SIDE 
 VIEW 
 
 <o 
 
 £|H^|HiH riQ.i #-£ 
 
 «-SOFT WOO 13 
 
 E1MD VIEW 
 SECTIONED 
 
 STOCK FOR SPREADER 
 
 ZTOP X." X 3/ a " X 15" 
 
 I BOTTOM 4/1" X 3/ a " x /5" 
 
 fc ENDS iKe" X /a." X l%" 
 
 i coRt\ i/i"x V4" xi*M" 
 
 FIG. 3 
 
 £ 
 
 
 
 
 TOP VIEVW 
 
 1 -a '" 
 
 
 
 
 
 [ 
 
 
 
 
 
 __.l 
 
 • 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1.1 
 
 111 
 
 ::i 
 1:1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 t- 
 
 
 " 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 L- ' 
 
 - (" J. , t " 
 
 -1 '" 
 
 ,1 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 F^3 
 
 3*. 
 
 j 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 ■ 1 
 
 1 
 
 F 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 «3V ^ 
 
 E1IMD VIEW 
 
 STOCK FOR PRESS 
 
 a cross pieces ^4." x x /4' xi3^." 
 
 X. BRACES IJ4" X%"XI7%" 
 
 2. END STRIPS . . I" X JV' X 17/i" 
 
 Z. STRAPS 94" X 36"UMNS 
 
 GLasa 
 
 ca 
 
 - VJ00D THE. Trl ICKNE.53 or THE- 1 NSECTS 
 
 STOCK FOR MOUNTING CASE, 
 
 Z GLASS FOR TOP AM) BOTTOM 
 
 £ EttDSAMD SIDES TO | r IT GLASS 
 
 THC.THICIM1ES5 OP IHSECTS. 
 
 bent over and clinched. Two sides must be made. Two pieces of 
 bookbinder's board or heavy cardboard should be used between the 
 two sides. To hold the straps in place put on strips of leather, or 
 strips of metal as shown in the photograph. 
 
106 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 ■■■■ ^ "JffC-s 
 
 1 
 
 ► 
 
 
 [f3E ■ . JT^B 
 
 ■lift 
 
 
 
 iCii 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 r 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 ^4 
 
 , •^•_ ^^U 
 
 i 
 
 
 ^y 
 
 &f®v 
 
 1 i 
 
 THE ROLLER COASTER. In hilly localities there is always 
 a great demand for the roller coaster. For most boys the making of 
 the wheels and axles is a difficult undertaking and is apt to result in 
 discouragement. For satisfactory results, they should be of hard 
 wood, turned on the lathe or sawed on the band saw, and accurately 
 bored. If it is desirable to secure them ready made it will be found 
 that some woodworking mills are always willing to use up their scrap 
 lumber in making them, provided a sufficiently large order is given. 
 The most convenient and inexpensive way is to arrange with the 
 local toy or candy shop to buy them wholesale and retail them to 
 the boys as needed. Sets of two sizes are manufactured by E. B. 
 Estes & Sons, 74 Warren Street, New York City. The wheels of the 
 smaller size are 3|" in diameter by f" thick, and the axles are 15" 
 long by |" square; the wheels of the larger size are 5|" in diameter 
 by |" thick, and the axles are 19" long by •§" square. These are sold 
 to the trade by E. B. Estes & Sons, so as to retail the smaller size 
 with a reasonable profit at ten cents per set (4 wheels and 2 axles). 
 They are of a hard wood and reasonably well made. 
 
 The simplest form of roller coaster is herewith shown. It is made 
 by fastening the axles directly to the body board. A heavy cord 
 fastened to the front axle can be used for steering, and a cross piece 
 can be used for a foot rest as shown in Fig. 1 . The heel of the shoe 
 touching the ground serves the purpose of a brake. In the wheels 
 and axles sold by E. B. Estes & Sons, three kinds of holes are already 
 
THE ROLLER COASTER 
 
 107 
 
 ROLLER-COASTER 
 
 4_ 
 
 L 
 
 L 
 
 %"CHAMFER- 
 
 Foil FOOT 
 
 ■I 
 
 15"- 
 
 10 
 
 BODY 
 
 J 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I BODY 
 /0"X Va" X36" 
 
 4 WHEALS 
 3&"DIAN.\%" 
 
 I AXLES 
 %"X ?6" X I5" " 
 
 I FOOT REST 
 
 i^'^e"*.'?" 
 
 I BOLT 
 
 ^"Di/\ri y x ^" 
 
 FOOT REST 
 
 V 7 
 
 H 
 
 -t-flOTCh FOR CORD 
 
 I 
 
 __Q 
 
 [ 
 
 I 
 
 ^^ 2." WIRE TOIL 
 
 ir* 
 
 FOOT REST 
 
 BODY' I] 
 
 ' " < fcj' 
 
 AXLE. . 
 
 'A." CARRIAGE. B0LT-*f~^ V4' WASHER 
 
 eno VIEW 
 
 > 
 
 u 
 
 ^5 
 
 
 SCALE 
 
 provided in the axles : a bolt hole in the center of the front axle, holes 
 for screws to fasten the axle to the body board, and holes for nails at 
 the ends of the axles to prevent the wheels from coming off. For 
 further construction of Roller Coasters see pages 1 26 and 1 27. 
 
108 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 r 
 
 J^^^^M 11 i I 
 
 • 
 
 ^ft w ^B Bfc^^v ^^^^^ *^^0^^\ 
 
 TABLES. See page xxi for general suggestions on furniture con- 
 struction. The simplest type of a table is that shown in Fig. 4 and 
 in the photograph. This type of construction has already been de- 
 scribed in rustic furniture on pages 18 and 19. The usual type of 
 table construction is that in which the rails are mortised into the legs, 
 but for our purpose this type requires too much technique and takes 
 too much time for construction. 
 
 Fig. 1 shows the square legs with the rails fastened around the 
 outside of them. This construction with the legs tapered is shown 
 in the photograph. To construct, fasten the end rails to the legs 
 first, next fasten on the side rails, and lastly the top. If no nail holes 
 are desired in the top, blocks must be used to glue the top to the side 
 rails. In Fig. 2 the legs are each made of two pieces joined at the 
 edge, forming a right angle. To construct, first nail the wide part of 
 the leg to the end rail, letting it project the thickness of the rail plus 
 the thickness of the leg piece. Next fasten the side rails in place, and 
 lastly fasten the side pieces of the leg in place, being careful to have 
 a tight joint in the leg. Be sure to chamfer or round the bottom edges. 
 
 Tables with round, square, or octagonal tops can best be constructed 
 as in Figs. 4 and 5. In the Fig. 4 type of table the shelf and the rail 
 piece should be thick enough to act as braces. They should be shaped 
 up together by pinning the pieces together with two nails or brads. 
 The edges must be perfectly square, and the legs securely fastened to 
 them. 
 
TABLES 
 
 109 
 
 CO 
 
 © 
 
 a: 
 o 
 
 (0 
 
 u 
 
 _i 
 
 id 
 
 M 
 tO 
 
 UJ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 c) 
 
 It 
 
 DC 
 
 3 
 
 Id 
 o 
 
 c 
 cr 
 (Q 
 
 ^ 
 
 i T* i i 
 1 \ 1 1 
 
 ft" — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 « 
 
 r.S 
 
 
 »■ 
 
 
 
 
 , 
 
 Ul v 
 
 s3 
 
 ^ x 
 
 bJ 
 
 cc 
 
 § 
 
 w 
 
 a: 
 o 
 U. 
 
 ^ 
 
 o a. 
 o o 
 
 H <- 
 09 - 
 
 
 
 U - 
 
 |- x x x 
 
 2 
 
 UJ oc 
 
 _J<fl 
 
 o 
 
 e 
 
 OS 
 
 e 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 J 
 
 <C 
 tn 
 
 f-1 a_ u— 
 
 I I llOUOnHlSWM -MM 6W 931 jo j 
 
 n i 3dAiowouisowu^ijuisw r| 
 
 II L--\ . ! 
 
 i-Li__ . lJJ 
 
 I I l_ I 
 
 „./- 
 
 Wwi 
 
 H- 
 
 — ;>- 
 
 
 c 
 
 - 
 
 >2! 
 
 1- 
 
 _i 
 
 i» 
 
 S3 
 
 23 
 
 O 
 
 UJ 
 </0 
 
 1 
 
 A. 
 
 
 1 * ■ 
 
 1 1 — 
 
 I I 
 
 1 
 I I 
 I — I 
 
 ll 
 
 ll 
 ll 
 
 II 
 II 
 
 !i 
 
 h 
 ii 
 
 11. 
 
 1 1 
 ii 
 liv 
 
 y 
 > 
 
 o 
 h 
 
 
 .1J 
 
 _I 
 
 (U 
 
 ii 
 
 -1 
 
 
 «r 
 
 — 'o< 
 
 CO 
 
 Ll 
 
 ^ 
 
 x x X x — 
 X X X X u- 
 
 XU 
 
 In Fig. 5 the pedestal and feet can be cut from a solid block, but 
 a crosslap joint is therein suggested. The foot pieces are set up into 
 one end of the pedestal, and the top of the table fastened to the opposite 
 end. 
 
110 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 MORRIS CHAIRS. For furniture construction, see page xxi. 
 
 The morris chair leads in interest with both boys and girls. In 
 this construction it must be remembered that it has not been planned 
 full size for ordinary use, but for doll furniture to be readily made 
 by young children. When well put together it stands hard usage. 
 
 To assemble the chair as shown in the drawing, first fasten the legs 
 to the seat with one brad in each leg, and then fasten the rails to the 
 legs, first the side rails and then the front and back rails. Before 
 putting the back rail into place, secure the back of the chair to it by 
 means of a strip of leather or cloth, so as to hold in place the stop for 
 the back, and then fasten the arms on top of the posts and legs. 
 
 If better construction is desired, the rails can be gained into the 
 legs as suggested in the lower left-hand corner of the bottom view. 
 The morris chair to the right in the photograph is also of this construc- 
 tion, while in the one to the left the construction is of the simpler type. 
 
 If cushions are not used, the rails must be high enough so that 
 the top of the seat is the proper height and even with the top of rails. 
 
 Cushions can be made with one seam as the ones on the chair 
 shown in the photograph. The more desirable ones are made like 
 those shown between the two chairs. This construction is suggested 
 in the drawing. One piece each is cut for the top and the bottom, 
 and one strip for sides and ends. These sewed together make a 
 rectangular box shape. Leave one seam partly open, pack with cot- 
 ton, and then sew this seam up. To hold the cotton in place and to 
 
MORRIS CHAIRS 
 
 111 
 
 W» life size MORRIS CHAIR for io m to ir dolls 
 
 SCALE 
 
 I ' I ' I ' 
 
 -3" 
 
 FROrtT VIEW 
 
 BACK 
 
 WITHOUT 
 
 cushion 
 
 o 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 WITH CUSttlOHS 
 
 IN PLACE. 
 
 
 If CU5H10N IS MOT USED 
 SEAT PIECE MUST BE. EVEN 
 WITH TOP EDGE OF RftlL-^, 
 
 CHAMFER OR R0UI1D 
 BOTTOCl OF LEGS 
 
 STOCK 
 
 WOOD FOR CHAIR 
 
 4 LEGS- 
 
 BACK 
 
 ARMS 
 
 SIDE RAILS_ 
 CROSS RAILS 
 SEAT 
 
 I BACK STOP_ 
 
 _3^" X34" X 4-" 
 
 J" XK4"X6" 
 I" X KVX4" 
 J" X/4-"X.6T2." 
 -3Ji"XV4."X4-" 
 -*4.!' X !4"X 5" 
 CLOTH FOR CUSHION *«™ i/ 4 "HEM 
 FOR SEAT CUSHION 3&"X4-" X34" 
 2. PIECES (TOP W BOTTOM) _4" X 4>i" 
 
 I STRIP (SIDES) WX/SKa." 
 
 FOR SACK CUSHION 3/2."X5"X3/4" 
 Z PIECES (FRONTED BACW_4" X 5/x." 
 I STRIP (SIDES) IJ4"Xl7>i" 
 
 «L 
 
 prevent the cotton from massing in one place, tack through from top 
 
 to bottom in several places as shown in the side view of the drawing. 
 
 If the rails have been gained into the legs, the inside of the chair 
 
 will be J" wider; and the cushion should be J" wider than planned. 
 
112 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 BEDS. For remarks on furniture construction, see general sug- 
 gestions on page xxi. The construction of the bed (Fig. 1 of the draw- 
 ing) is shown in the photograph. It must be remembered that this 
 type of furniture construction is not designed full size for ordinary 
 use in the home, but for the furnishing of the doll house to be made 
 by the young children. The rails of the head and foot pieces are 
 gained into the posts, and the uprights of the head and foot pieces are 
 nailed to these rails on the inside, as seen on the right in the photograph. 
 If less work is desired, the rails can be nailed directly to the posts with- 
 out gaining them in, and the uprights can be omitted as is shown on 
 the left in the photograph. If even less work than this is desired, 
 the head and foot boards can be made solid of a single piece each. The 
 main objection to this is that pieces this wide are liable to split warp. 
 
 To assemble the parts, fasten all of the pieces of the headboard 
 together with glue and nails. Two nails should be used in each joint 
 at the end of the uprights so as to brace the pieces properly. Next, 
 fasten the slat supports to the inside of the side rails to the head and 
 foot boards. To prevent the slats from getting lost, fasten them in 
 place with a drop of glue and a brad at each end. 
 
 A crib can be made by making the bed a smaller size, but with 
 the side rails higher to prevent the baby from rolling out. 
 
 If a cradle is desired, make a box with the end pieces wide and 
 long enough to form the rockers. A medium size cigar box may be 
 used, and the rockers fastened to the ends. 
 
BEDS 
 
 113 
 
 ,i L 
 
 (0 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 a 
 
 u 
 
 CO 
 
 UJ 
 
 N 
 CO 
 
 u 
 
 X 
 
 
 ■ti 
 
 U 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 ; 
 
 < 
 
 — st- 
 
 o 
 
 
 (0 
 
 
 
 ~ ,; 
 
 N. vO ± 
 
 ask 
 
 XXX 
 
 <o 00 
 XX 
 
 m ^- 2 °° 
 X X x x 
 
 X X X X X X 
 
 j£ ^p i> S = isj # ^ ^ "v* 
 
 O 
 
 &- a. a: 
 <£ 5 <a 
 
 liJ o — 
 
 ■£. li- <o 
 
 <^ cv* <* 
 
 00 
 
 h ca 
 
 I I i 
 
 fj 03 (O 
 R t- l-= 
 
 r r c 
 o o g 
 
 tc CC l ^- 
 &_ d. 3 
 
 docccC 
 
 kJO J-l 
 
 3- k_ oO cO 
 
 o< N »o IO t^V) 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 Tt 
 
 -|<0 
 
 4- 
 
 >>!+ 
 
 >T|C0 
 
 * 
 
 i i 
 
 i 
 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 T 
 
 .Lj. I 
 
 I I 
 I l 
 I I 
 I I 
 
 1 1 
 
 > 
 
 2Z 
 
 u 
 
 >&Hr' 
 
 3 
 
 i". i 
 
 > i 
 
 rout- 
 
 It/IQ 
 
 "iol+ 
 
 rol* 
 
 II' 
 
 _E=lBE 
 
 g i 
 
 ^ 
 
 5 
 
 U 
 > 
 
 o 
 
 h 
 
 5 
 
 LJ 
 
 > 
 
 UJ 
 
 <0 
 
 
 >ly4«-/^K- 
 
 ■lc- 
 
 =rf 1 
 
 o 
 a: 
 
 bi 
 
 t£ 
 E 
 
 o 
 
 :l_ 
 
 >k-t|-M<-|f-*l 
 
 "..i 
 
 Mattresses can be made of a cloth covering and stuffed with cotton, 
 excelsior, or hair. It should be tacked through from top to bottom 
 in several places to keep the stuffing in place. For further description 
 of mattresses see pages 1 1 and 111. 
 
114 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 GARDEN TOOLS. These tools can be used in the sand pile or 
 in the garden after the hard soil has first been broken up. 
 
 After the working edges of the hoe and the spade have been tapered 
 to |" or less in thickness, a piece of tin or thin sheet iron should be 
 fastened around it with common wire nails long enough so that they 
 can be bent over and clinched. The handles make excellent problems 
 in round modeling. See pages 60 and 61. For the larger children 
 the handle should be 1" in diameter or better still, f" x 1^". 
 
 Broom sticks make excellent handles for the hoe and the rake. 
 When boring the holes for the handles, note that the handle of the 
 hoe inclines slightly toward the front edge, and that the handle of 
 the rake slants slightly away from this edge. The size of the hole in 
 the rake block should not be larger than § " in diameter. Fasten the 
 handles in with glue, and secure by hammering a nail in from the top. 
 
 A simple, but less strong, rake can be made by fastening the handle 
 to the top surface of the block piece. The teeth for the rake should 
 be made of 1 0d, common wire nails. To prevent the block piece from 
 splitting, | M holes must be bored which are slightly smaller than the 
 diameter of the nail. The nails must fit tightly. Tack a piece of 
 sheet iron over the heads of the nails. 
 
 In making the spade, the top crosspiece and the blade must be 
 securely fastened to the handle. Glue and fasten them with small 
 carriage or stove bolts, or with nails long enough for the points to be 
 bent over and clinched. The top end of the handle can be cross-lapped 
 
GARDEN TOOLS 
 
 115 
 
 Id 
 O 
 
 r 
 
 Id 
 GO 
 
 VfflKJ 
 X * * - 
 
 r±vo±'>a 
 
 T&r 
 
 0>U 
 
 *« 
 
 
 kj4- 
 
 -7 9? 
 
 CO 
 
 o 
 
 <co- 
 rri- 
 
 k- 
 
 -+?- 
 
 i 
 
 -X. 
 
 "o|+< 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 u 
 
 F 
 
 
 _1 
 
 - 
 
 
 <t 
 
 - 
 
 O 
 
 r 
 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 -+e- 
 
 *M 
 
 u 
 
 1+ 
 
 into the top piece and the lower end recessed into the blade §" or ^-". 
 For a snow shovel the beveled part of the handle can be fastened 
 to the front of the blade, and the blade can be made twice as wide. 
 The handle should be made without the cross-piece. 
 
116 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 V 
 
 / 
 
 SEESAW AND SAND BOX. The teeter or seesaw, as sug- 
 gested by Fig. 1, can be made any length and height desired. The 
 teeter board should be straight-grained. The ends of it can be cut 
 round, and the edges should be well rounded off. The lock block 
 should be cut to receive the pivot and then fastened with screws to 
 the center of the board. To prevent the board from wearing in the 
 center, a strip of sheet metal can be fastened to the board where it 
 comes in contact with the pivot. The pivot can be of iron or steel 
 f " in diameter ; and, if for use by the larger children, it should be 1". 
 
 The uprights should be driven into the ground far enough to secure 
 a firm foundation. If it is desired to move the teeter from place to 
 place, a base can be used nstead. This would require fastening the 
 uprights to a rectangular frame and securing it firmly by means of 
 braces in both directions. The arrangement shown in Fig. 1 allows 
 for the removal of the board so that it can be put indoors out of the 
 weather. Strips fastened across the ends of the uprights will lock the 
 board in place and thus prevent it from being removed. 
 
 Fig. 2 is a suggested construction of a sand box 8 feet square. 
 Strips across the corners, at the top and the bottom, are suggested 
 for the braces. They are shown fastened to the edges of the sides, 
 but a much stronger construction is to let them down into the edge 
 of the sides. Large angle irons can take the place of the wooden braces. 
 Strips of sheet metal fastened along the corners on the outside will 
 also help to hold the corners together. 
 
SEESAW AND SAND BOX 
 
 117 
 
 SEE-SAW - SAND-BOX 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I TEETER BOARD_ 8 " X l%"X I6'-Q" 
 
 2. UPRIGHTS 6" X Z." A.5'-0' 
 
 I LOCK-BLOCK 7T* I %"A 12." 
 
 I ROM PIVOT. 
 
 .H"^WX 15" 
 
 SCALE 
 
 'I'l'l'l'l' 
 
 FIG. Z. 
 
 STOCK 
 
 4- SIDES 10" X 1^" X8'-0" 
 
 4 TOP BRACES £>£" A >1" "A U" 
 
 4 BOTTOM BRACES-4/i' N ^" X 2.0" 
 
 ML 
 
 If the box is to be covered, it should be made narrower. If the box 
 is 4 feet wide, the lid can be made of four boards 12" wide. Fasten 
 them together with strap hinges. If the wooden lid is not desirable 
 on account of weight, make a rectangular frame with a canvas cover. 
 
MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 JOINTED DOLLS. These dolls can easily be made by the younger 
 children if a plain construction is used such as suggested in Fig. 1 . 
 Considerable care is necessary in locating the position of the nails 
 and in putting them in, else they are liable to split the wood and 
 necessitate making the pieces over again. 
 
 The slip joint construction as suggested in Fig. 2 requires much 
 time and very careful work. The size suggested in the drawing is 
 one-sixth life size, but for the younger children this size is somewhat 
 too small. If a large size is desired, such as one-fourth life size, the 
 best plan is to measure the size from life and divide by four. This 
 will make a doll about 16" instead of 10" or 11" high. 
 
 In selecting the material it is very necessary that perfectly straight 
 grain wood is selected, else the pieces will break off at the joints. In 
 cutting the parts simplify the outline. The dowel in the head should 
 be a tight fit, but readily adjustable. All the joints should be tight 
 so as to be able to hold any pose desired. After locating the position 
 of the nails or dowels, be careful to bore the holes at perfect right 
 angles to the surface of the wood. If wire nails are used for the joints, 
 the ends can be bent over and clinched. If a large-sized doll is made, 
 f " stove bolts can be used and the nut on the end can be sunk into the 
 wood below the surface. The bolts can be run across the entire width 
 at the shoulders and the hips. 
 
 Such dolls in the drawing room serve excellently for poses. Dolls 
 to be used in connection with the house and the home furnishings 
 
JOINTED DOLLS 
 
 119 
 
 JOIhTED DOLL J*™ life size. 
 
 SCALE. 
 
 FIG. 2. 
 
 FtG. I 
 
 o 
 
 
 STOCK 
 I BODY 
 
 ^ upper mns 
 
 2. TORE ARMS 
 2. THIGH LEGS 
 ZCALFLEGS 
 2. FEET 
 I HEAD 
 lOQWCLJOtXIjt 
 
 FRONT VIE.W 
 
 side: view 
 
 should be an appropriate size. Clothing to be put on and taken off 
 can be made for them. The boy dressed, as shown in the photograph, 
 is one of the " Do With " models manufactured by C. Pratt, 9 Jones 
 Street, New York City. 
 
120 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 RUNNING GRASSHOPPER. The grasshopper affords play for 
 individuality in design. This can best be done by cutting paper 
 outlines and using them as templates. Make the body wide to keep 
 it from tipping over. If a narrow piece is used for the body, it is 
 necessary to fasten lead or other metal to the underneath part of the 
 body to avoid toppling over. 
 
 The legs can be fastened to the body at the shoulders, or they can 
 be fastened to the wheels as shown in the photograph. The rear end 
 of the leg should be fastened to the outside of the wheel in order to 
 get the up-and-down eccentric movement. The wings may be fastened 
 so as to be stationary ; but if desired, a movement of the wings can 
 be arranged. A slot in the wing through which a screw can be entered 
 and fastened to the back part of the leg will admit of an up-and-down 
 movement of the wing with every revolution of the rear wheels, as 
 is shown in the drawing and in the middle figure of the photograph. 
 
 A ratchet wheel can be arranged underneath to give forth a click- 
 ing sound such as described on pages 96-98. If so, the axle for the front 
 wheels must be of one piece and fastened tightly to the wheels. On 
 the middle of this front axle must be tightly fastened the ratchet wheel, 
 which can be made from an empty spool. The underneath part of 
 the body must be cut or hollowed out to receive this wheel ; and on the 
 bottom of the body must be fastened a thin strip, so arranged that 
 the free end of the strip will touch the ratchet teeth, which revolv- 
 ing, sets the strip vibrating and produces a clicking sound. 
 
RUNNING GRASSHOPPER 
 
 121 
 
 RUNNING GRASSHOPPER 
 
 
 _ y 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 <0 
 
 + 
 
 (j "—ICQ 
 
 ~ p wing 
 
 
 -4-%- 
 
 
 H— lt"- 
 
 -.!«■ 
 
 "4i" 
 
 -+£ 
 
 
 
 It 
 
 
 © 
 
 5ACf\ LEG 
 
 ■) 
 
 
 
 1 " 
 
 J c 
 
 a '" 
 
 — ^ 
 
 
 
 '8 
 
 f 
 
 ^-4- • 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 I BODY 2." X.1%" XI4&" Z TORE LEGS— &"**■>#£ 2- WINGS ^"x.^.'xm" 
 
 4- WHEELS i/4." Dl^.^J/i" 2. BflCIS LELG5_ ^.'XJ^'V/l" 2. TRAILE.RS_/2."'A/ / 8"X.£)" 
 
 Ml. 
 
 Large spools can be used for the wheels. The grasshopper can be 
 made large enough for the children to ride upon. If so, use the roller 
 coaster wheels as suggested on page 106. If desired make the head 
 movable on a cam or balance, as on pages 1 02 and 1 03, 
 
122 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 SAILBOAT. The sailboat herewith suggested has had a great 
 demand in the vacation schools. 
 
 The hull is made of §" or 1|" stuff. A good outline of the two 
 sides can be obtained by taking a piece of paper the size desired, 
 doubling it lengthwise, and cutting with scissors or knife. Be sure 
 that the greatest width is in the forward half. After the desired 
 shape is obtained, the paper can be glued to the top surface of the 
 wood, or the outline can be traced. Trim to shape, then on the center 
 line bore one hole for the mast forward of the center and one hole 
 near the end for the rudder. Cut out the keel and fasten in place 
 with nails or screws from the top side. Next, cut out the rudder and 
 trim the upper end round to fit and turn freely in the hole already bored. 
 The rudder must be slipped into the hull piece before fastening on the 
 handle, which must be done securely with glue. Next, take the strip 
 of tin or sheet metal and fasten it to the bottom edge of the keel and 
 the rudder. With one nail in the rudder, the metal will hold the rudder 
 up in place and yet allow it to swing around on this pivot. 
 
 The mast can now be tapered and fitted tightly in the hole pre- 
 viously bored for it. Strips of wire can be bound to one end each of 
 the gaff and the boom, to form loops which must be large enough to 
 let them slip into place over the mast. A piece of waterproof cloth 
 can be used for the sails. Fasten them as shown in the drawing with 
 a cord to the top of the mast. Two nails should be driven into the 
 hull for the cleat to which the boom is fastened by means of a cord. 
 
SAILBOAT 
 
 123 
 
 SAILBOAT 
 
 TOPV1E.W WITHOUT SAIL 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I HULL_6J4"X7/ a "X /5"' 
 I KEE.L_2#'XI£"X II" 
 
 / numuM'^" K S" 
 
 IHfl«OLE..t/iL ,, X'%" \z%" 
 IMflST_ Ki"X)i" X 16" 
 
 i soon _ 3 /a"X 3-6" x !*." 
 
 I Gfirr_ 3-6" X •V&" X 6&" 
 I LEflD_H" X 3 /a"X7/j" 
 I TIN 4>/6" /n 2." 
 
 cLorn_/2." * <3" 
 
 LEAD BRLUWST^ STRIP OF W PIVOT* 
 -14- 
 
 4- 
 ^KFXL 
 RUDDEf\ 
 _!D^-Bf\UJ\ST 
 
 BACK VIE1W 
 WITHOUT MAST 
 
 SCALE 
 
 . 6" 4 
 
 m 
 
 J 
 
 Fasten enough ballast of lead or other metal to the keel to keep the 
 boat upright in a stiff wind. The farther the ballast is below the water 
 line, the more effective it is in keeping the boat upright. When the 
 keel is not very deep, the ballast can be suspended by means of wires. 
 
124 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 WHEELBARROW AND WAGON. Wheelbarrows and wagons 
 should be made large enough for practical use in the garden and the 
 sand pile. The larger size can be made more satisfactorily than the 
 small toy size, and if properly constructed will last for years. 
 
 The wheel for the barrow can be obtained from some discarded 
 wagon, or it can be sawed out from a solid piece of hard wood, or 
 bought at the store. See page 106. If the axle is made of a square 
 piece as suggested by Fig. 1 , a square hole must be made in the center 
 of the wheel, and the ends of the axle rounded so as to revolve in holes 
 bored in the ends of the shafts. If a round rod or dowel is used for 
 the axle, the wheel must be securely fastened to it. Round the handles 
 of the shafts. The bottom piece must be cut out so that the grain 
 runs across and not lengthwise. 
 
 To put together the wheelbarrow as shown in Fig. 1, first fasten 
 the wheel to the center of the axle and slip the axle into the holes in 
 the ends of the shafts. The axle can be held in place by means of 
 nails or cotter pins. The holes should be waxed before slipping the 
 axle into place. Now fasten the bottom to the shafts, nailing it securely 
 in place. Next, fasten the back and side pieces in place. Lastly, 
 fasten the legs very securely to the sides of the barrow by clinching 
 the nails or by the use of bolts. The use of angle irons or strips of 
 metal at the corners makes a strong barrow. The wagon body (Fig. 
 2) is a box with one end arranged as a tailboard. Use angle irons 
 or strips of metal to reenforce the corners. For fastening the wheels 
 
WHEELBARROW AND WAGON 
 
 125 
 
 WHEEL-BARROW AMD WAGON 
 
 STOCK FOR WHEEL- BARROW 
 
 Z. HANDLES I 'A" XW X 36" 
 
 2. LEGS IJ4"X>t"/, 15" 
 
 I WHEEI 5'/i!' 131 AH. \ 2£" " 
 
 I AX.LE___3/V X44-" XII" 
 
 2. SIDES 7 " X '/%." X /3>l" 
 
 I BOTTOM 13/*." X Ki" X/3/i" 
 
 I BACK 7" X </tl' X M" 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 ENDVIEW 
 
 STOCK FOR WAGON BODY 
 
 I 60TTOH 14-" X H" X£7>t" 
 
 Z. SIDES .6"X^."AA.8" 
 
 I EiriO_ 6" X ^"X 14" 
 
 I TAILB0ARD_iXxri"X.'3^Q" 
 
 4 GUIDE5_ I" X V^'7^.5/4' 
 
 I SET OF WHEELS AMD AXLES WITH AXLE BLOCKS 
 
 SCALE. 
 
 rTfi 
 
 i i i 
 
 i ii i 
 
 n i 
 
 lUJ J 
 
 •SIDE VIEW 
 
 and axles see Roller Coasters on page 126. A board or part of a pack- 
 ing box can be used for the seat. Long nails can be used to fasten 
 the shafts to the axle block, but a bolt running the full width of the 
 wagon body is best. A harnessed goat or dog can be used to draw it. 
 
126 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 ROLLER COASTERS. For suggestions concerning wheels and 
 axles, see page 106. As shown in Fig. 1 , the rear axles can be fastened 
 to the body with nails or screws. A large nail can be used to pivot 
 the front axle, but a bolt is much better. A washer between the front 
 axle and the body enables the front axle to turn easily. The cotter 
 pins are best to keep the wheels on, but nails with the ends turned are 
 sufficient. Grease the axles before putting on the wheels. 
 
 The body board is cut away as shown in Fig. 2. The combination 
 seat and tool box can be made by hinging the top of the box as seen 
 in the photograph. An auto effect can be made by the arrangement 
 of several boxes of suitable size. The steering can be done with a rope 
 as seen in the photograph, or with the feet as arranged for in Figs. 1 
 and 2. The front of the body board must be narrow to give room for 
 the feet on either side. If very accurate mortise and tenon work 
 can be done, an upright with a steering wheel or crossbar, as shown in 
 the photograph, can be used. This will take the place of the bolt. A 
 hard wood broom handle makes a good upright. At one end cut a 
 tenon about j^" by §", as suggested in Fig. 3. Cut a mortise in the 
 front axle to receive this tenon, and fasten it securely into place. 
 
 Three forms of brakes are herewith shown : Fig. 2 and the photo- 
 graph show a direct wheel brake and a ground brake ; and the second 
 figure in the photograph shows a brake-shoe arrangement. 
 
 If more finish is desired, carefully round or run |" or -j^-" chamfers 
 all around the top edge of the body-board. If large boxes are to be 
 
ROLLER COASTERS 
 
 127 
 
 ROLLER-COASTER 
 
 n 
 
 TT 
 
 STOCK 
 
 I BODY 10" "A 34." x 3d" 
 
 + WHEELS 3'/£ Dlf\M. * %" 
 
 2. AXLES . %"X 7/Q X IS" 
 
 1 cross piece 2." x %'x n" 
 
 2. BLOCKS £"x %"x 2." 
 
 I BOLT V$ DIAH- * 2-%" 
 
 1 i 
 
 HOLE FOR COTTER PIN OR MIL^^E— 
 
 ■36' 
 
 -■ol^ 
 
 n — r 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 scale: 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 TI'i'i'i'HT'T 1 ' 
 < g" — ■ 
 
 .STOCK , 
 I B0DY_ll&'x% X36 
 
 4- wheels y/£mn*%" 
 
 I AXLES %"K%"xlS" ; 
 1 BLOCIV^Xl^'X^' = 
 I BLOCK. Z&'XIfc"* II" 
 50LT__^"DlAMX5" 
 
 ^ 
 
 0< -MSIU 
 
 'O 
 
 I 
 
 |**fc 
 
 2 
 
 E 
 UJ 
 
 02.' 
 
 L_J_ 
 
 __1 ^U 
 
 FIG.!£ 
 
 Hp I 1 
 
 GROUMD BRAKE- 
 
 5TEERit1(i 
 
 WttEEL 
 
 POST 
 
 DID CUT 
 TO FIT MORTISE ^ 
 lit f ROUT A*LE ,b 
 
 M 
 
 FiG.3 
 
 _m. 
 
 hauled, the body must be raised above the wheels by means of the 
 blocks as seen in Fig. 2, so that the top surface of the body will clear 
 the top of the wheels. If this is done, a large packing box may take 
 the place of the body board. 
 
128 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 VAULTING POLE — STANDARD — HURDLE. The vaulting 
 pole should be made of a strong, straight grained, light weight wood 
 such as white pine or spruce. For the younger boys, make it 6 feet 
 long by 1^" diameter. Cut square; then model round. See page 60. 
 
 Drive a large nail or a piece of steel 
 into the end. Let it project at least 
 an inch and be ground or filed to a 
 point. To prevent splitting, wrap 
 with fine wire for several inches. 
 
 The vaulting or jumping standard 
 involves the crosslap, and mortise 
 and tenon joints. Cut the tenon on 
 the end of the upright with a |" 
 shoulder. Bore the holes for the 
 pegs, upon which the cords rest, 
 at right angles to the length of the 
 upright. Cut a ^" chamfer or round 
 on the upper corners of the foot 
 pieces. The sharp corners of the 
 uprights should be taken off. Paint 
 the figures on the upright before 
 assembling the pieces. In fastening 
 the parts together be careful that 
 the upright is at perfect right angles 
 to the foot. A 4" angle iron fas- 
 tened at each side is necessary. 
 
 Dowels or large sized nails can 
 be used to hold the cord. For the 
 cord use a piece of fine rope about 
 1 2 feet long, at each end of which fasten a triangular shaped bag filled 
 with sand or gravel ; and a piece of white cloth at the center. 
 
 A 30" hurdle is suggested by Fig. 3. The legs are fastened to 
 the top with an end-lap joint. If a If" thickness is used for the top 
 pieces, the work can be laid out as suggested by the end view of 
 the top piece in Fig. 3. This joint can be cut with the back saw. 
 
VAULTING POLE — STANDARD — HURDLE 
 
 129 
 
 VAULTING POLE - STANDARD - HURDLE 
 
 TOP VIELW 
 
 T 
 
 
 l*a£l 
 
 o 
 
 Q 
 
 til 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 -ttoLta 
 
 fOSPE63 
 
 TEtlOMED 
 EMDOF 
 UPRIGHT 
 
 J3Pi 
 
 w 
 
 SI DEL VIEW 
 
 STOCK 
 
 2. FEET 3>i" X I J*." A I S" 
 
 I UPRIGHT_1%"XI^."X72." 
 4 STRIP5_-.IM-"^M-'7v^" 
 
 FIG. 2. 
 
 *WIRE ' 
 
 m 
 
 STOCK 
 
 i pole: 
 \%" DW.Y\&'-Q" 
 
 M. 
 
 STOCK 
 
 4 LEGS 3>i" X M" X aOJi" 
 
 Z. BRACES 3>£ " A >i" A 10" 
 
 1 TOE_ 3>S." XJ% n A 4-5" 
 
 SCALE. 
 
 I] I Ml lllll I II IIIMNII 
 
 II.- 
 
 Fasten with glue and nails, screws, or bolts. If nails are used, clinch 
 them. If more advanced technique is desired, the legs can be set into 
 the top piece away from the ends and slanting outward so that the 
 outer length at the bottom of the hurdle is about the same as at the top. 
 
130 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 CHECKER, CHESS, AND BAGATEL BOARDS. For a 
 simple checkerboard use a single piece of wood, or the bottom of a 
 box. Lay out the squares not smaller than 1^" along each side. 
 Trace the lines heavily and blacken each alternate square. The back 
 of the board can be laid out for bagatel. See Fig. 3. 
 
 For a folding board, small butt hinges can be used, or a piece of 
 strong leather or cloth can be glued to the inside edges of the board. 
 
 For advanced technique, a glued up or " inlaid " board is a good 
 problem. Use a dark and a light wood. Plane up four strips each, 
 exactly 1^" wide. See that they are parallel, with perfectly square 
 edges. Glue up with alternating colors as in Fig. 2. From the ends 
 of this piece cut off eight strips exactly 1 j" wide. See Fig. 2. These 
 must be parallel, with perfectly square edges, else when arranged for 
 gluing the squares will not match up properly. Arrange the strips 
 with the proper arrangement of squares for the board as in Fig. 1. 
 In this position glue them up, being careful that the outside edges of 
 the large square thus formed are at perfect right angles to each other. 
 An inch border strip of wood of another color about a middle value 
 between the two kinds of wood already used, should be glued around 
 the board. The corners of this border can have a butt joint, but a 
 mitred joint is better. Plane the board smooth and level, and apply 
 a natural finish of oil, white shellac, or varnish. 
 
 The twenty-four checkers should be about 1" diameter and made 
 of the same kind of wood as the board. They can be turned on the 
 
CHECKERS, CHESS, AND BAGATEL BOARDS 
 
 131 
 
 CHECKER CHESS OR BAGATEL BOARD 
 
 1D I 
 
 Eric lvie-w 
 
 FIG. 3 
 
 FIG. 2. 
 
 va_< 
 
 SAW 
 
 :? 
 
 METHOD Of 'GLUIMG UP STRIPS 
 
 WITH darK'Aud light wood 
 
 STOCK 
 
 4 STRIPS OF DARK WOOD l&'W* \V 
 4 STRIPS OF LIGHT WOOD l34'x%"x I2»" 
 4 STRIPS OFHtWIWOOD f**$£X\L" 
 
 STOCK POR ONE PIECE BOARD 
 
 i piece: _ i V /n%."xiz." 
 
 STOCK FOR TWO PIECE BOARD 
 
 i PIECES- G" X^'xii" 
 
 SCALE 
 
 M 1 1 1 1 ' | ' I ' ' I ' 
 
 * 4" » 
 
 sa 
 
 lathe or modeled with the plane. If necessary, they can be sawed from 
 the end of a broom handle. The disks to be colored can be painted 
 or dipped in ink. For chessmen round disks similarly made will 
 answer if the names of the various pieces are indicated on the top. 
 
132 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 ROLLER LOOM. The roller loom is used for continuous weaving. 
 The frame is made with a slip joint ; but, if necessary, a plain butt 
 joint may be used. If No. 6 screws are used to fasten the upright in 
 place, a |" hole should be bored. The roller should revolve freely 
 in the upright. The dowel pegs used for stops should fit tightly, 
 else they are liable to fall out and get lost. A light tap should be re- 
 quired to shift them in or out as desired. The nail or wire in the end of 
 the roller should also be tight and just long enough at each end to be 
 held between the projecting pegs. Holes must be bored for these 
 nails before hammering them into place, else they will split the roller. 
 Note that these nails at the ends of the roller are placed at right angles 
 to each other. In marking off the 33 grooves on the roller, they should 
 be marked off from the rule without moving it so as to insure keeping 
 them exactly even and within the 8" space. The 33 warp threads 
 of even length must be tied to the grooves of one roller, passed through 
 the proper openings in the heddle, that is, into the round holes and 
 openings between the strip alternately, and then tied to the grooves 
 of the other roller as shown in the photograph. See also page 84. 
 When a heddle is used, the alternating threads are raised and lowered 
 with the one movement of the heddle so that the needle or shuttle 
 can be passed back and forth. The heddle is also used to push the 
 thread firmly into place. As the weaving progresses, the cloth is 
 wound on one roller and the thread is unwound from the other one. 
 
 The loom has served as excellent problems for individual experi- 
 
ROLLER LOOM 
 
 133 
 
 ROLLER LOOM 
 
 TOP VIELW 
 
 ■» J I *ID& VME.W..' ■_* 
 
 w^kw 
 
 -i* 
 
 STOCK FOB, FRf\MEl 
 
 1 51DE5 1 7 /& x %" X I i" 
 
 2 ENDS IT / a"X%"X I 0" 
 
 4 UPRIGHTS \}£ i XH U X +& 
 
 1 ROLLERS Kj'Dim- X 10%!' 
 
 I2.STOPS- -^"Diatn. X 94" 
 
 It 
 
 -4V 
 
 IE 
 
 t" #16 Bf\f\DS AT F\lGttT fllJ6l.ES TO EACK0THO\* 
 9f- 
 
 :q m& 
 
 p- 
 
 co 
 
 •ale 
 
 < :«- — — ■— io 
 
 =j> 
 
 ,11 z 
 
 1 
 
 CO 
 
 r 
 
 J 4 
 
 EMC) 
 
 18 
 
 r 
 
 "3® 
 
 VjfcO 
 
 UPRIGHT 
 
 SCALE 
 
 I 'I'l 1 1 ; i 'I' 1 ' 
 — . — 4 " ^ 
 
 PA 
 
 mentation. Many mechanical contrivances to facilitate the work of 
 weaving have been worked out by classes. Many types of the heddles 
 have been constructed, of which the one shown in the drawing is the 
 best. Looms requiring more complex processes can be constructed. 
 
134 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 AQUARIA OR VIVARIA. Every schoolroom should have one or 
 more fairly large aquaria so as to study the various forms of life at 
 first hand. Filled with water, many forms of aquatic life can be stud- 
 ied ; filled with earth it can be used as a root cage to study plant life 
 at first hand ; while with air alone it can be used as a breeding cage 
 to study animal life. 
 
 The aquarium suggested by the drawing is a good size for practical 
 purposes in the school. With a partition in the middle, two different 
 kinds of aquatic life can be housed. For convenient handling by the 
 children and for home uses, the single small aquarium is best. Many 
 good objections are made to the usual wooden aquarium. The one 
 suggested, although of wood, is not that of the usual wooden type. 
 The best type of construction for the frame is the one made of metal as 
 suggested by Dr. Hodge in Nature Study and Life on page 394. In 
 some schools or homes, however, the construction of the metal frame 
 is not possible. The wooden frame herewith designed has been 
 planned to meet such conditions. When constructed properly, it 
 has been found to serve its purpose very satisfactorily. 
 
 The method of construction is as follows : First fasten the battens 
 on the bottom board, and cover the upper surface and edges with 
 enamel, copal varnish, tin, oilcloth, or some substance that is water- 
 proof. This protection for the wood is necessary, otherwise, if the 
 receptacle leaks ever so slightly, the bottom board would swell up 
 and cause the opening of many of the joints. Next, nail the two 
 
AQUARIA OR VIVARIA 
 
 135 
 
 AQUARIA ORVIVARIA 
 
 -ropviE-W 
 
 [ BflTTE.fi 1 
 
 01 DEVI 
 
 STOCK FOR DOUBLE AQUARIUM 
 
 I BOTTOM BOARD 10" X 34" X££" 
 
 2. BOTTOM BATTELS 3" X^"X9^" 
 
 4- CORNER UPRIGHTS (hnps)_I^' X >^'X7%" 
 4 CORNER UPRIGHTS (SiDESJL/^." X yi'X7%." 
 
 1 MIDDLE UPRIGHTS (5ides)_I >i" X >1" X 7^' 
 X BOTTOM STRIPS C&NDS)__>1" X%"X8^" 
 2. BOTTOM STRIPS (3IDE5) >l" X^"X2-I%" 
 £ TOP STRIPS (ENDS) ^-" X.%"X7^" 
 
 2 TOP STRIPS (5IDE.S) |" X^";>U%" 
 
 4 TOP STRIPS (5T0PS)_3/6" X ^."XIO^" 
 
 3 GLASS ENDS 8" X 8" 
 
 6 GLASS SIDES <wB0TTOn 6" X IQ" 
 
 I top siots of lid i" x y£r.u 3 £ 
 
 l BOTTOM SIDES OF LI D_l" X J4-"XI9%" 
 
 2. TOP ENDS OF LID /" X J4'X We," 
 
 Z. BOTTOM ENDS OF LID>_I" X XTX^" 
 
 E W 1 8ATTEH [ 
 
 STOCK FOR SINGLE AQUARIUM 
 
 I BOTTOM BOARD 10" X */£' X II" 
 
 I BOTTOM BATTENS 3" X34"X9?4" 
 
 4 CORNER UPRIGHTS (em>s)J%"x Kjl' X 7^-" 
 4 CORMER UPRIGHTS C5I0E3)J>4"X H." X7%-" 
 2. 50TT0M STRIPS (£.mds)_/2." X M' /-&%" 
 BOTTOM ST R I PS (5 1 DES)_ J<£' X 3 /6 KUVq" 
 
 TOP STRIPS (ENDS) %■" X %" X7^e" 
 
 TOP STRIPS (5IE>ES)_I" X ^" Kli%" 
 TOP STRIPS (3T0PS)_4^" X V4' ^10/e" 
 
 GLASS EMD5 8" X 8" 
 
 GLASS SIDES ««!> BOTTOM 8" X /O" 
 
 TOP SIDES OF LID- 
 BOTTOM SIDESOFLID-J' 
 TOP ENDS OF LI D_ 
 
 2.' BOTTOM ENDS OF LID_J" 
 
 x /4X« 3 /e 
 
 k'A." x are" 
 
 x M-" X 1 3 /q 
 
 X X4" X 5%" 
 
 J£L 
 
 corner upright pieces together, and then nail the bottom strips in place 
 on the ends of these uprights. Place in position on the bottom board. 
 Now tack the top strips on temporarily with a nail at each corner. 
 The glass used can be old photograph negatives, 8" x 10", which may 
 
136 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 be easily cleaned off by using a hot solution of sal soda or other alkali. 
 When the pieces of glass are ready for placing, the cement should be 
 prepared. Dr. Hodge suggests several receipts. He says : 'A good 
 aquarium cement, for either fresh or salt water, is made by mixing 
 dry ten parts each, by measure, of fine, dry, white sand, plaster-of- 
 Paris, and litharge, and one part powdered resin. Mix, as required, 
 to a stiff putty with boiled linseed oil. (This oil must be warranted 
 free from any adulteration with fish oil, and it is commonly necessary 
 to buy raw oil of a practical painter, who should know that it is pure, 
 and boil it for a few minutes, to drive off the water in the raw oil.) 
 The simplest and best aquarium cement, the formula of which has 
 been given me recently by the United States Fish Commission, is 
 made as follows : Stir together dry, by weight, eight parts putty (dry 
 whiting), one part red lead, and one part litharge. Mix, as wanted 
 for use, with pure raw linseed oil, to a consistency of stiff putty." x 
 
 To lay the glass, first put a thin layer of cement around the bottom 
 corners. Then set the glass down in it, leaving a 1 ^-" of cement between 
 the surface of the glass and the wood. Next, lay the side, and then 
 the end pieces in the same way. In all but the very small sizes the 
 corners should be reinforced by filling the corners with cement and 
 then laying over this a narrow piece of glass to protect the cement 
 from the water. Extra care must be taken in pressing the glass in 
 position, else it is liable to break. Hold the glass firmly against the 
 frame while the cement is drying. To do this Dr. Hodge suggests 
 the springing in of some limber green twigs. Trim off all the extra 
 cement at the joints. After the glass is all cemented into place, 
 the stop pieces should be fastened to the top strips. These pieces 
 are located under the top strip along the sides, and are used to hold 
 the glass up in place. These stops should be just long enough to 
 touch the end pieces of glass, and the edge of the stops should press 
 against the side pieces of glass. After locating the position of the 
 stops, the top strips, which have been but temporarily fastened on, 
 can be taken off, and the stops more easily fastened to them. The 
 top strips should then be securely fastened in place. 
 
 1 C. F. Hodge, Nature Study and Life, p. 399. 
 
AQUARIA OR VIVARIA 137 
 
 If a cover or lid is desired, it can be hinged along the edge. The 
 eight pieces specified for the lid are used to make the frame of the lid. 
 A piece of fine mesh wire netting, slightly smaller than the outside 
 size of the aquarium, is necessary; 9" x21" for the double one, and 
 9" x 11" for the single one. This is fastened between the two thick- 
 nesses of the wood, and the nails are securely clinched to hold it. 
 
 This aquarium should be set away for a week or more so as to allow 
 the cement to harden. Dr. Hodge suggests the putting on of one or 
 two coats of copal or spar varnish around the seams on the inside. 
 No leak is likely to occur, but if it should occur, dry the aquarium 
 thoroughly, and apply one or two coats of the copal varnish. 
 
 Dr. Hodge's directions for setting up an aquarium are as follows : 
 ' First, put in about two inches of sand, washed until a stream of 
 water runs off clear ; then, with the sand only moist, set the plants 
 about the corners, making furrows in the sand in different directions 
 and laying the roots in them ; finally, arrange the pebbles, shells, and 
 larger stones about the bottom where they will keep the plants in 
 place. Next, pour in the water up to within an inch of the top, hold- 
 ing the hand or a piece of thin board to break the force of the stream, 
 and avoid washing the plants loose. Finally, put in a fresh water 
 clam or two, some snails, a few tadpoles (if the fishes will allow of it) 
 to keep the water clean, and, after a day or two, such fishes — not 
 more than two or three — as it is desired to study. Overcrowding 
 is the common temptation to be resisted. Allow one gallon of water 
 to each fish three inches long, and where enough water plants are 
 present to oxygenate the aquarium, the fishes will show by their actions, 
 quiet movements, and breathing, that they are comfortable. 
 
 'How often does the water require changing? The answer is: 
 ' Not once a year, if the animals and plants and light are properly 
 balanced and regulated.' 
 
 ' Fishes and aquatic animals, in general, should not be fed oftener 
 than once a day, and then only so much as will be eaten clean." 
 
 For further directions consult Dr. Hodge's chapter on " The Con- 
 struction and Management of the Aquarium." 1 
 
 i C. F. Hodge, Nature Study and Lije, pp. 393-404. 
 
138 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 DOLL. The end-lap joint construction as suggested by Fig. 1 in 
 the drawing of the doll is perhaps the best for all round purpose. The 
 main advantage it has is that it can be very quickly constructed. It 
 can be made larger if desired. The important thing is to work out 
 
 the several parts in proper propor- 
 tion so as not to look grotesque, 
 unless such is desired. If so, a great 
 deal of amusement can be gotten 
 from them. The best way to obtain 
 the proper proportion is to measure 
 the human body and reduce to the 
 size desired. Such dolls well pro- 
 portioned and constructed make ex- 
 cellent models for the drawing room. 
 Fig. 2 of the drawing on page 1 1 9 
 shows a construction that is more 
 difficult than Fig. 1 and less difficult 
 than Fig. 2 on the opposite page. 
 This slip joint construction (Fig. 2) 
 is a good opportunity for an exer- 
 cise in tool processes. Good joints 
 must be made if the dolls are to 
 look well and work properly. For 
 suggestions concerning the construc- 
 tion and assembling of the parts see 
 page 118. If the doll is to be fairly 
 large and to do much service, small 
 carriage bolts to hold the parts to- 
 gether are desirable ; or, if dies are 
 available, bolts can be made from heavy wire. A thread can be cut 
 at one end, and the other end upset, and a slotted head cut with the 
 hack saw. This, with the use of a screw driver, will admit of setting 
 in the nut below the surface of the wood. Bolts at the shoulders and 
 hips should extend the full width of the doll. 
 
 The facial expressions can be varied. They can be painted on by 
 
DOLL 
 
 139 
 
 JOI'MTED DOLLS *™ life size: 
 scale: 
 
 1 ' i „'■! ' ' 
 
 LAP JOINT 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 FIG. 
 
 1 
 
 rttAt) 
 
 
 
 r -j 
 
 ! i 
 
 
 i i 
 
 
 i t 
 
 
 <*"; 
 
 
 I I 
 
 
 l" 
 
 =■- 
 
 . i". 
 
 
 | 1 
 
 , i". 
 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 
 > 'q> 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 _j 
 
 
 rO|4 
 
 !_. 
 
 
 
 ¥-- 
 
 N 
 
 > 
 
 < 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 - ' — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 — —f 
 
 
 P 
 
 3 
 
 /r> 
 
 
 
 + 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 * 
 
 n 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 -"- 
 
 
 r 
 J' 
 
 --"-( 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 r 
 
 
 f 
 
 
 
 *» 
 
 .=! 
 
 
 
 L. 
 
 : L 
 
 - =4 
 
 r" L .°. 
 
 FRONT VIE.W 
 
 side: view 
 
 STOCK 
 
 1 BODY 
 
 2 UPPER ARMS. 
 
 2. THIGH LEGS- 
 2. CALF LEGS. 
 
 2 FEET 
 
 I HEAD— 
 
 .Z!4"X 'A"x3 3 /4" 
 
 -'/z"X ^'XZH" 
 
 -ML" 
 
 1/4- 
 
 X !4-"x3>£" 
 X J4"X3.!4" 
 
 X >i -XJfc.' 
 
 SUP JOINT 
 
 FRONT VIELW 
 
 OlDE^ VI £W 
 
 STOCK 
 
 1 Body 
 
 Z UPPER ftRHS- 
 
 2,roRe./\Rn5- 
 
 2 THIGH LE.GS- 
 
 Z. CALF LEGS _ 
 
 2. FEET 
 
 I HEAD 
 
 .%" *>%"x 3" 
 -'/2."X >i"^W 
 .IJ4-" X A" K/ftf 
 
 (Ml 
 
 the boys talented in this line. Various costumes with which to dress 
 the dolls can also be worked out by the classes. Mrs. Laura Starr's 
 book on "Dolls" offers excellent suggestions for correlation with school 
 subjects such as geography and history. 
 
140 
 
 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 DAVENPORT AND CHAIR. For general suggestions on furni- 
 ture construction see page xxi. The furniture shown above is a 
 type of construction usually made. It should not be made, because 
 it lacks the necessary bracing and will therefore go to pieces quickly 
 after being used. 
 
 The davenport (Fig. 1) is the same type of construction as that 
 of the morris chair on pages 110 and 111. The rails can be gained 
 into the legs as suggested for the morris chair. If this is done, the 
 seat will be §" longer, since the legs will be moved out just the thick- 
 ness of the two side rails. The drawing herewith shown is for use 
 without the cushion. 
 
 If a cushion is used, the seat should be somewhat lower than the 
 top edge of the rails, so as to make a pocket for the cushion. The rails 
 will be ^" lower, as suggested in the drawing, so that the top of the 
 cushion will be the proper seating height. 
 
 To assemble, first nail the legs to the ends of the seat with one brad 
 in each leg. Next nail on the cross rails, and then the front and back 
 rails. After it is carefully squared up, nail on the arms, and, lastly, 
 the back rail even with the top of the arms. 
 
 If a divan is desired reduce to about one-half the length. To 
 do so, simply deduct the same amount from all of the long pieces ; for 
 instance, if the seat is to be 5^" the top rail should be 7" and the other 
 rails 7^", the amount deducted being 5". 
 
 Cushions will add considerable interest to the problem. For 
 directions concerning the making of the cushions see the suggestions 
 given on pages 1 1 and 111. 
 
DAVENPORT AND CHAIR 
 
 141 
 
 DAVENPORT - CHAIR 
 
 TOP VIEW 
 
 i — -i 
 
 \— -i 
 
 n 
 
 
 !*-/-» 
 
 -|<b 
 
 fT^t 
 
 h — 
 
 i— 
 
 1. , zi 
 
 ircusmon is to se used lower seat biow rail 
 
 1. 
 
 scale: 
 
 I I 
 
 3 £ 
 
 % 2 
 
 I I I I I I I I I I I 
 
 FIG. I 
 
 s±y.*_r 
 
 .A 
 
 END VIEW 
 
 'it 
 
 
 I 
 — t 
 
 <- 
 
 PROrtTVIEW 
 
 FIG Z 
 
 -**H 
 
 
 -1+ 
 
 
 -t- 
 
 "1 
 
 1 
 
 STOCK FOR DAVENPORT 
 
 4 LEGS M" X^" X 5 " 
 
 I ARMS I" X J4" X 4 " 
 
 I SIDE RAILS !"X&" X3/1" 
 
 I TOP RAIL I"X^"XIX." 
 
 I RAILS (FR0rtTA!1DBACK)_r XJ4" XU&" 
 I SEAT WWKWt' 
 
 STOCK FOR CHAIR 
 
 I BACK 3'A." X J4"X6y + '' 
 
 4 LEGS 3A" X^"X«4" 
 
 Z RAILS / " X^"X3^." 
 
 I SEAT 334" X'A." X 4-" 
 
 FROM" VIEW 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 CHAMTER OR ROUND 60TT0M OF LEGS 
 
 J2_ 
 
 Fig. 2 has been designed for a hall chair. It is so constructed that 
 the side rails are wide enough to act as braces in one direction and 
 the back, which is lowered and fastened to the legs, acts as a brace 
 in the other direction. 
 
142 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 PLAN OF HOUSE ARRANGEMENT. Simple ordinary homes 
 must be thought of in planning for the house. Various arrange- 
 ments of the rooms can be considered ; for instance the pantry can 
 come between the dining room and kitchen, with the bathroom in 
 the middle of the house; or the boxes can be turned so that the 
 length of the front rooms runs across the width of the house, thus 
 making the front of the house wider than the back. Practical con- 
 veniences will determine the arrangement of the rooms, such as 
 having the pantry adjoining the kitchen and the kitchen next to the 
 dining room. Not only must each room be a unit in itself, but all 
 the rooms must be related so as to obtain unity in appearance and 
 in the arrangement of the house. The one-floor plan, as shown in the 
 drawing, has been found to be a very practical plan for a study of 
 interior arrangement and decoration. Five packing boxes of similar 
 size are used, one of which is sawed in two, one part being used for 
 the pantry and one for the bathroom. Simplification of the problem 
 necessitates the rooms to be all one size or at least all one height. 
 The tops of the boxes are not used. This leaves the whole house open 
 at the top so as to make the arrangement of the furnishings most con- 
 venient. If desired the boxes can be separated enough so as to leave 
 a space between the rooms which can be used for closets. If very 
 little floor space is available, put the living room, bedroom, and bath- 
 room on the second floor. In this case one side of each room can be 
 left open and access to the second floor can be had by means of a stair- 
 case of cardboard or thin wood. The boxes should be arranged so as 
 to obtain good proportions in length, width, and height of the rooms. 
 If large boxes only are available they may be divided into rooms by 
 the use of cardboard or thin wood. A certain scale should be deter- 
 mined upon and then adhered to in every detail. The proportioning 
 of everything to a scale affords excellent correlation with arithmetic. 
 
 If all of the furnishing is to be of paper and cardboard, one-eighth 
 size or 1^" to each foot has been found to be most satisfactory. 
 This will make use of boxes or rooms about 18"x27" and an 8" 
 or 9" doll. One-sixth size or 2" to the foot is best, however, if 
 bristol board or cardboard is to be used, but if ordinary manila draw- 
 
PLAN OF HOUSE ARRANGEMENT 
 
 143 
 
 M3cr«wS 
 
 B3M3HS 
 
 < 
 
 , in mill iiiniTi- 
 
 vn 11111111117-7-r 
 
 imunvi 
 
 MMIS 
 
 
 z 
 
 uJ 
 
 Id 
 
 Id 
 
 «9 
 
 -1 
 
 I 
 
 Of 
 
 I 
 
 o 
 
 c 
 
 F 
 
 \r 
 
 o 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 ■3A01B VOW 
 
 yM«<<<<K<<<<w///M<<<<<& 
 
 yn.*.11.1\-K1' 
 
 "2 
 
 -30w-i<a-mli 
 
 E 
 
 D 
 
 D 
 
 5| 
 
 J 
 J 
 
 (Q 
 <r 
 h 
 
 D 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 Dl 
 
 n 
 
 1V3S /AOdVIIM 
 
 .8?- 
 
 jg^mmccn 
 
 
 J 
 r 
 
 sru.vu.vg- 
 
 I 
 
 111 111 11111 llllll I I I H 
 
 VI IIIIITTT 
 
 SIUO 
 
 a^ff 
 
 z 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 a 
 
 ul 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 TO 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 anaw. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 33W-Ui3WU 
 
 yAV,y , :VX>-A^\W,YAV,V« i^Z?33 
 
 -a^wid^yu 
 
 ggsg 
 
 s 
 
 o 
 o 
 ■r 
 
 o 
 r 
 > 
 
 j 
 
 to 
 
 1V3S MO<JUIW 
 
 o 
 
 r 
 
 6. 
 
 CS '■'■^^-'-v 
 
 -~U — 8- 
 
 I 
 
 ..87 
 
 HOMOd 
 
 EL 
 
 n 
 
 n 
 
 Wi*\VT 
 
 Vw\ 
 
 Kl/^WT 
 
 O 
 
 -I 
 -I 
 
 s 
 
 u 
 e 
 
 "o 
 
 of 
 o 
 lu 
 
 z: 
 
 LJ 
 
 E 
 
 LJ 
 O 
 
 TL 
 
 AC 
 
 c 
 
 u 
 toy 
 
 e 
 
 z: 
 
 Id 
 Id 
 
 3 
 
 ing paper only is available, one-twelfth size or 1" to the foot is 
 best. In this case a 6" doll will be used and the rooms will be about 
 14" x 18". The drawing has been planned with the thought of 
 having the furnishings made of wood and a scale of one-sixth has been 
 
144 MANUAL TRAINING — PLAY PROBLEMS 
 
 selected as the smallest size practical. If wood is used for the furni- 
 ture, a smaller size than that specified on the drawings should not be 
 used, otherwise satisfactory results are not possible. From an eco- 
 nomical standpoint, it has been found that packing boxes for the 
 rooms one-eighth size can be more readily obtained from the mer- 
 chants, and cigar boxes and cereal boxes can be utilized to better 
 advantage in this size; but as previously said, if wood is to be the 
 material used, the making of furniture this one-eighth size is not prac- 
 ticable from an educational standpoint. If plenty of space is avail- 
 able and economy in materials is unnecessary, then a one-fourth size 
 is most suitable. If packing boxes are not desired, and plenty of 
 lumber and a workshop are available, the house can be built in the 
 shop. With advanced pupils actual house construction to scale can 
 be planned and worked out, but with the younger children this is not 
 desirable. One-half inch or one-quarter inch boards should be used. 
 Porches may be added and a removable roof may be put on. 
 
 Where paper and cardboard have been used, this work in the second 
 and third grades has been most successful. In the higher grades the 
 work with these materials is considered by the older children as 
 mere doll play, but when wood has been used for the furniture, the 
 higher grades, especially the fifth and sixth, have regarded such work 
 as real, even though it is in miniature. 
 
 A school superintendent after observing this work said, " I do not 
 know who was most interested, the children or the teacher. When 
 one considers the lessons learned in common-sense application of 
 everyday problems in furnishing, one cannot but be impressed with 
 the educational value of such work." Much inexpensive material 
 can be obtained outside of school and much work done at home, 
 such as table covers and portieres stenciled, rugs woven, mattresses, 
 pillows, and cushions upholstered, and clothing made for the dolls. 
 
 A few words of caution are necessary; avoid attempting more 
 work than can be satisfactorily finished, avoid long and difficult pro- 
 cesses, else discouragement will result. Attempt only those things 
 that can be readily and easily made, and always make it possible 
 that the children will have something to show for their effort. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Aeroplane, 100 
 
 Animals with moving parts, 78, 80, 102, 120 
 
 Animal traps, 26, 90 
 
 Aquaria, 134 
 
 Bagatel board, 130 
 
 Banjo, 4, 38 
 
 Barrel traps, 26, 90 
 
 Bats for peggy or tip-cat, 60 
 
 Bean-bag games, 1 6 
 
 Beds, 4, 112 
 
 Bench, tool, xxiii 
 
 Benches, rustic, 4, 18 
 
 Birds, 78, 102 
 
 Bird houses, 4, 88 
 
 Blacksmith boys, 54 
 
 Boats, vi, vii, xi, 4, 28, 122 
 
 Bolts, xix 
 
 Bow gun, 74 
 
 Box, 44 
 
 Box traps, 26, 90 
 
 Breeding cages, 86, 1 34 
 
 Bridge boards, 68 
 
 Butterfly, 6 
 
 Butterfly top, 2 
 
 Buzzer, 10 
 
 Cardboard furniture, 143 
 
 Carron board; 64 
 
 Case for mounting insects, 1 04 
 
 Cement, xxi 
 
 Chairs, 4, 18, 110, 140 
 
 Checkers, 130 
 
 Chess, 130 
 
 Chicks with worm, 54 
 
 Chinese drum, 99 
 
 Cigar box problems, 4 
 
 Clickers, 96 
 
 Climbing jacks, 50 
 
 Clogging jack, 52 
 
 Clothespin blacksmiths, 54 
 
 Clothespin jack, 48 
 
 Color tops, 2 
 
 Coping saw, xxiv 
 
 Cradle, 4, 112 
 
 Crokinole board, 64 
 
 Croquet game board, 64 
 
 Cushion for chairs and bed, 110, 112 
 
 Daggers, 56 
 
 Dancing jacks, 48, 52 
 
 Darts, 76 
 
 Davenport, 4, 18, 110, 140 
 
 Dining-room chairs, 4, 1 08, 1 40 
 
 Dinkey birds, 78 
 
 Disc tops, 2 
 
 Dolls, xx, 118, 138 
 
 Drill, primitive string, 10 
 
 Elastic pistols, 22 
 Elastic power boats, 28 
 Elastic sling-shot, 22 
 Eccentric running wheels, 20, 24 
 
 Falling ladder, 82 
 
 Falling seesaw, 82 
 
 Falling teeter, 82 
 
 Fencing rods, xxiv, 62 
 
 Fifes, 38 
 
 Figure-four traps, 26 
 
 Flying tops, 6 
 
 Furniture, xxi, 4, 18, 108, 1 10, 112, 140, 143 
 
 Garden labels, 1 2 
 Garden signs, 1 2 
 Garden sticks, 12 
 Garden tools, xxv, 1 1 4 
 Garden trellis, 12 
 Glider, 100 
 Grasshoppers, 120 
 Guns, 22, 74. 99 
 
 145 
 
146 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Happy jack windmills, 37 
 Hockey pucks, 72 
 Hockey shin guards, 72 
 Hockey sticks, 72 
 Hoes, 114 
 House plan, 142 
 Humming bird, 38 
 Hurdle, 128 
 
 Insect bottle, 30 
 
 Insect mounting case, 104 
 
 Insect nets, 30 
 
 Jacks, 48, 50, 52, 54 
 Jointed dolls, 118, 138 
 Jumping jacks, 50 
 Jumping standard, 1 28 
 
 Kaleidoscopes, 14 
 Knives, 56 
 
 Label, garden, 12 
 Lever movements, 54 
 Looms, 84, 132 
 
 Manual training materials, xvi 
 
 Map puzzles, 44 
 
 Marble games, 68 
 
 Marble rakes, 68 
 
 Minnow nets, 30 
 
 Mounting case for nature-study work, 104 
 
 Mother-hubbard windmill, 34 
 
 Musical instruments, 4, 38 
 
 Nails, xix 
 
 Nature-study apparatus, xxv, 12, 30, 86, 104, 134 
 
 Nets, 30 
 
 Paddle-wheel boats, 28 
 
 Peggies, 58 
 
 Peggy bats, 60 
 
 Pendulum movements, 78, 80 
 
 Pistols, 22 
 
 Plant labels, 12 
 
 Plant sticks, 12 
 
 Plant trellis, 12 
 
 Plug top, 2 
 
 Pole jack, 52 
 
 Polliwog nets, 30 
 
 Popgun, 99 
 Post-card box, 44 
 Post-card picture puzzles, 44 
 Press for nature-study work, 104 
 Primitive drill, 10 
 
 Quoits, 94 
 
 Rake, garden, 1 14 
 Rake, marble, 68 
 Rattler, 96 
 
 Ring-toss games, 8, 94 
 Roller coasters, 106, 126 
 Roller -looms, 132 
 Root cages, 86, 134 
 Rpque boards, 64 
 Rowboats, 28 
 Running grasshoppers, 1 20 
 Running wheels, 20, 24 
 Rustic furniture, 18 
 
 Sailboats, 122 
 
 Sand-box for playground, 116 
 
 Sawyer, 80 
 
 Scissors jack, 48 
 
 Screws, xx 
 
 Seesaw for playground, 116 
 
 Seesaw, falling, 82 
 
 Shinney stick, 72 
 
 Shin guards, 72 
 
 Shovel, 114 
 
 Sign, garden, 12 
 
 Sling shot, 22 
 
 Snow shovel, 115 
 
 Solitaire, 66 
 
 Spreader for insects, 104 
 
 Stick, hockey and shinney, 72 
 
 Stick, garden, 12 
 
 Stilts, 70 
 
 String musical instruments, 38 
 
 Swaying figures, 80 
 
 Swings, 42 
 
 Swiss dinkey bird, 78 
 
 Swords, 56, 62 
 
 Tables, 4, 18, 108 
 Target, 74 
 
 Teeter, playground, 1 1 6 
 Teeter, falling, 82 
 
INDEX 
 
 147 
 
 Tip-cats, 58 
 Tip-cat bats, 60 
 Tools, xxiii 
 Tops, 2 
 Traps, 26, 90 
 Trellis plant, 1 2 
 
 Ukelele, 41 
 
 Vaulting pole, 1 28 
 Vaulting standard, 1 28 
 Vivaria, 86, 134 
 
 Wagon, 124, 126 
 Washstands, 4 
 Weaving, 84, 132 
 Wheels, xx, 106 
 Wheelbarrow, 124 
 Whirligig, 6 
 Whistles, 38 
 
 Whistling instruments, 38 
 Windmills, ix, 34 
 Wrestlers, 23, 54 
 
 Zither, 38 
 
 Printed in the United States of America. 
 
"""THE following pages contain advertisements of Macmillan 
 books by the same author, and of kindred interest. 
 
Community Civics 
 
 By JESSIE FIELD 
 
 Formerly Superintendent of Schools, Page County, Iowa, author of 
 " The Corn Lady" ; and 
 
 SCOTT NEARING 
 
 Professor of Social Science, Toledo University, author of 
 " Income," " Social Adjustment," etc. 
 
 Cloth, i2))io. III., x + 270 pages. $.60 
 
 Community Civics is designed to train boys and girls in 
 citizenship. It aims to teach them to see beauty, truth, strength, 
 and opportunity in country life ; to understand the meaning and 
 purpose of community institutions — the home, schools, libra- 
 ries, clubs, associations, and the visible means of public service ; 
 to work for the ideals of country, maximum production, effective 
 methods of business, high standards of living, and thoughtful 
 consideration of life's problems ; and to take an active interest 
 in community, state, and national affairs. 
 
 Community Civics is a moving treatment of civic affairs 
 in the community and in the larger community of state and 
 nation. It is concerned with the civic conditions and social 
 agencies of to-day and to-morrow. It is suited for the use of 
 children in elementary schools everywhere except those in large 
 cities. 
 
 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 BOSTON NEW YORK DALLAS 
 
 CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO ATLANTA 
 
The New Geographies 
 
 BY THE LATE 
 
 RALPH S. TARR 
 
 AND 
 
 FRANK McMURRY 
 
 First Book . $.65 Second Book $1.10 
 
 The Tarr and McMurry New Geographies represent ideas that 
 make the teaching of geography produce results. Distinctive features 
 are : 
 
 i. The emphasis of humanized geography. The physiographic and 
 geological studies in geography are made subordinate to the indus- 
 trial activities, the history, the education, and the development of 
 the people. 
 
 2. The basis in home geography. In the beginning of the course and 
 throughout the course, the study of geography is constantly related to 
 the pupils' own experiences. 
 
 3. The stimulus to self-activity. Pupils are taught how to study, led to 
 think about human problems, and encouraged to use thought rather 
 than memory in their study. 
 
 4. The organization of material. The material of instruction is grouped 
 under topics ; topics are grouped under main topics. The individu- 
 ality of each topic is recognized. There are frequent comparisons 
 with the United States as a basis, and reviews. 
 
 5. The use of the type method. Wherever it can be used to advantage 
 in presenting geographical concepts, in developing the ideas of insti- 
 tutions, regions, or industries, the type method is used. 
 
 6. The appeal to the interest of children. Interest is 'gained and held 
 by an adequate treatment of topics worked out in sufficient detail to 
 make the meaning clear. 
 
 In every feature The Tarr and McMurry New Geographies are 
 in harmony with the principles of modern pedagogy. They challenge 
 comparison. 
 
 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 BOSTON NEW YORK DALLAS 
 
 CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO ATLANTA 
 
English Spoken and Written 
 
 By HENRY P. EMERSON 
 
 Superintendent of Education, Buffalo, New York, and 
 
 IDA C. BENDER 
 
 Late Supervisor of Primary Grades, Buffalo, New York 
 
 Book One — Lessons in Language for Primary Grades $ .35 
 
 Book Two — Lessons in Language, Literature, and Composition 50 
 
 Book Three — Practical Lessons in English Grammar and Composition . . .60 
 
 The English Spoken and Written Series of textbooks in language 
 has gained recognition for merit in teaching elementary English effec- 
 tively. The characteristic features of the series are : 
 
 i. Definiteness and preciseness of aim. The chief aims of the English course — 
 the mastery of oral and written expression and the development of the power 
 of language appreciation — are kept constantly before the teacher and pupil. 
 
 2. Constructive language work. Interesting, progressive, and constructive lan- 
 guage lessons are organized into a complete, definite, and effective course of 
 instruction. In this course, oral English plays an important part. It is the 
 basis of instruction and an important factor in the development of every topic. 
 
 3. Effective correlation. The language work is correlated with the other sub- 
 jects of elementary instruction and with the material of instruction that is to 
 be gathered by the pupils out of school life. The reading done in school and 
 at home is, likewise, made the basis of particular individual language lessons. 
 
 4. Well planned treatment of language and grammar. Language training is the 
 main purpose of the series. Training in English grammar is given its proper 
 place in the course. It is introduced and emphasized at the right time. 
 
 5. Reviews. There is ample provision for review work. Every new principle is 
 developed with a sufficient number of exercises for practice and review. Cu- 
 mulative reviews are also provided. 
 
 The success with which English Spoken and Written has been 
 used indicates that it endures well the test of use. 
 
 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 BOSTON NEW YORK DALLAS 
 
 CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO ATLANTA 
 
The Health Series of Physiology and Hygiene 
 
 By M. V. O'SHEA 
 
 Professor of Education, University of Wisconsin ; Author of 
 " Dynamic Factors in Education," etc., and 
 
 J. H. KELLOGG 
 
 Superintendent of The Battle Creek Sanitarium ; Author of 
 "Man, The Masterpiece," etc. 
 
 Health Habits $.45 The Body in Health . . . $.65 
 
 Health and Cleanliness . . .55 Making the Most of Life . .65 
 
 The O'Shea and Kellogg Health Series of Physiology and Hy- 
 giene is devoted to the education of children for health. It presents a 
 complete course of instruction, covering every phase of the child's 
 physical health and welfare. These books and the lessons in each book 
 have been written in the fullness of knowledge of the subject and with 
 a deep and sympathetic understanding of the nature and the needs of 
 children. 
 
 The characteristic features are : 
 
 i. The lessons encourage children to form health habits. They supplement the 
 instruction given in physical training, play, and exercise toward the formation 
 of habits of posture; and they establish the child in the right habits of bodily 
 maintenance, rest, recreation, and personal hygiene. 
 
 2. The lessons harmonize the health work of the school, the home, and the com- 
 munity. They teach children also how to be of service to themselves and 
 others in emergencies. 
 
 3. In these lessons children are taught the elementary facts and principles of 
 physiology and hygiene. They are taught to understand with sympathy the 
 machinery of the human body, its needs and processes, its purposes and func- 
 tions ; and they are taught to build up the fortifications and defences of the 
 body against disease. 
 
 The Health Series of Physiology and Hygiene is adapted in 
 every feature for use in elementary schools. The four books make a 
 complete and noteworthy course of instruction. Each book is, how- 
 ever, complete in itself and can be used independently. 
 
 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 BOSTON NEW YORK DALLAS 
 
 CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO ATLANTA 
 
9