UBRARV OF CONGRESS lllllllilMI .^^ y^- \/ :^', %,^* C i^' "C*. ' « - - .0 v' *i^Lr i 1 / HANDY GUI DE^ WASHINGTON /\A/D iTS NEIGHBORHOOD, RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY, Publishers. S. A. L SEABOARD AIR LINE THE POPULAR LINE NORTH AND SOUTH. The Famous Atlanta Special _^ Makexn Solid Vestibule Limited jUMI^ tmi!^ SEABOA AIR LINI iOUTHERN PINES, ATHENS, RALEIGH, ATLANTA, MACON, MOBILE, NEW ORLEANS, AND PACIFIC COAST POINTS. ickcts on sale at all principal Ticket Offices in United Stat«« and Canada. IT Time Tables, Information, Reservation, call on or address ROBERT A. PARKE, j GKNKRAL AGENT SOUTHEASTERN DISTRICT, WASHINGTON. I ST. JOHN, H. W. B GLOVER, T.J.ANDERSON, Vi«c-PBE8iPtNT. Traffic Manascr. acNL Passr Agent. WHEN IN NEW YORK STOP AT THE WESTMINSTER HOTEL SIXTEENTH STREET AND IRVING PLACE (one block east of union square.) SITUATED IN THE HEART OF THE SHOPPING AND AMUSE- MENT DISTRICTS, ONLY ONE BLOCK FROM BROADWAY AT UNION SQUARE. IN THE QUIET, ARISTOCRATIC NEIGHBORHOOD OF GRAMERCY PARK. "a hotel of established reputation, with a CUISINE OF NOTED EXCELLENCE. UNDER LIBERAL MANAGEMENT." AMERICAN PLAN. RATES FROM $3.50 PER DAY UPWARD. E. N. ANABLE, Proprietor. Maps and Guides TO All of the Principal Cities AND Every Country in the World. Road Maps FOR Driving, Wheeling, or Walking. Globes, Map Racks, Spring Map Rollers, Wall and Pocket Maps, Historical Maps, Classical, Biblical, Historical, Anatomical, Astronomical, Physical, and General Atlases of all kinds kept in stock. Address Rand, McNally & Co., IVlap Pu-blishiers and Engravers, 160 to 174 Adams Street, CHICAGO. 6! East Ninth Street, near Broadway, NEW YORK. -^THE OXFORD^ ...WASHINGTON, D. C, a«dNc»York'Aye:;N.W. H. P. MARSHALL & CO., PfOpS. L:=^ :;&^^^>«i»i'' '• EUROPEAN plan: Rooms $i.oo per day and upwards. AMERICAN Plan: $2.50 per Day and Upwards. The most centrally located and liberally managed hotel in the city. This Hotel has recently been thoroughly renovated and refitted; is centrally located, but one square from the United States Treasury, two squares from the White House, and exceedingly convenient and accessible to the business and shopping part of the city, depots, and steamboat landings, and also all the Government Buildings, by three lines of street cars passing the door. H. P. MARSHALL & CO., Proprietors. George Washington's Hatcbet Spoon. This is the most beautiful and historical souvenir spoon on the market to-day, containing eight objects, all pertaining to his home and political life. THE HATCHET and LITTLE GEORGE WASHINGTON in the act of chopping the cherry tree. A SCROLL representing the roll of parchment upon which was written the Declaration of Independence, of which he was the founder. THE AMERICAN FLAG, representing the victory of Inde- pendence, for which he fought. THE CAPITOL, representing the establishment of our Govern- ment and his presidency, the last official act to the people of his country. On the Reverse Side. MOUNT VERNON MANSION, the beautiful country home, situated on the banks of the Potomac River to which he retired after serving his country. THE WASHINGTON MONUMENT, erected by his countrymen and admirers as a last tribute of respect to his memory. A REMARKABLY CORRECT MEDALLION LIKENESS com- pletes what is believed to be one of the most attractive, as well as popular, spoons of the day. What more appropriate souvenir could be taken ? Washington, Illustrating as it does, the history of the most memorable features in the life of the greatest and noblest of all Americans; the one who will ever hold a dear and loving spot in the hearts of his countrymen. Coffee Size, $1.50. Tea Size, $2.50. MADE IN STERLING SILVER ONLY. A BEAUTIFUL SOUVKMl! OF WASHINGTON, SHOW- ING SIX PUBLIC BUILDINGS-A most Elegant Medallion Placque and Card Receiver— Unsurpassed for Beauty of Design and Quality of Workmanship, finished in Gold, Sterling Silver, bright Oxidized and Quadruple plate— price. |1.50 up. D. N. WALFORD, 477 Pennsylvania Ave. Northwest, Washington, D. C. All the Finer Medium Grades of Stationery The stock and we show em- braces both the im- ported and domestic makes. The prices quoted you will find to be as low if not lower than that asked elsewhere. Our specialty — an excellent Linen Paper 15 cents a pound, ruled or unruled, complete line of Office and Desk Supplies. Our showing of books is by all odds the largest dis- played in Washington, and embraces every subject. The 20 per cent discount feature applies to books in stock and also where books not on hand are ordered from catalogue. Subscriptions receive4-for magazines and periodicals published in any part of the world 20 per cent Discount off Publishers* Prices on Books Engraving and Printing BALLANTYNE'S 428 7th Street, Washington, D. C. ^ Work of the highest class you are assured of in every instance. Then the very moderate charges made are an additional incentive. Estimates for the asking. l^"MaiI orders carefully and promptly attended to. THE FREDONIA FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Z K J d Z K E m c m 2 r z 1321 -<323 H Street, Northwest, WASHINGTON, D. C. "the FREDONIA HOTEL, A MODERN HOTEL HOME." " The man Avithout a home of his own will find this Hotel of loo rooms the next best thing to it. It is centraily located, thoroughly equipped with every modern appliance, both for comfort and safety, newly furnished throughout from top to bottom, convenient to all lines of cars, and is in the midst of many of the city's most prominent points of interest. It is conducted upon both the American and European Plans and has a cuisine not excelled by any hostelry in the city." RATES. American : One person, $2.50 per clay, $ 14 per weelc, $40 per month and upward. Two persons, $4.50 per day, $25 per week, $75 per month and upward. European : Rooms, one person, $ I per day and tipward. Two persons, $ 1 .50 per day and upward. Special Excursion Rates will be quoted to parties of twenty or more upon application to WASHINGTON DANENHOWER, Proprietor. HOTEL AND CAFE Corner Eleventh and G Streets, N. W. Washington, D. C. American and European. Rooms with Board, $2 to $3 per day, $10 to $15 per week. Rooms only, $1 to $2 per day for each person. Special Rates to parties or permanent guests. LOCATION Unsurpassed for Sightseers. HOMELIKE APARTMENTS, Light and Airy. ELEVATOR, STEAM HEAT, and other Comforts. SOLDIERS' HOME PARK. A Vista Revealing the Dome of the Capitol. Rand, McNally & Co.'S HANDY GUIDE WASHINGTON DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. BY ERNEST INGERSOLL, Author of "The Crest of the Continent," "Knocking 'Round THE Rockies," "A Week in New York," "Handy Guide to New York," etc. Wztk Map and Illustrations. ■^r '">■ ; APR chicago and new york: Rand, McNally & Company, Publishers. i80. Washington's Family Hotel The Elsfflere ^ "S* "^ '^ ^p» ^^ "?p» ^p» ^ '^ "^ "S^ "^ '^ ^ 1408 H STREET, NORTH WEST Centrally located, convenient to all street railways, within two- blocks of Executive Mansion, Treasury, War and Navy Departments, the principal hotels, and places of amusement. One hundred bedrooms, single and en suite, with or without private baths. Heated by steam and open grate fires. Among its patrons are Senatorial and Congressional families, making The Elsmere a social and delightful resting place. SPECIAL RATES BY THE MONTH Transients accommodated on the American plan. S2.00, S2.50, AND S3. OO PER DAY, RIVES & CO., Proprietors. TELEGRAMS RESERVING ROOMS PAID BY THE OFFICE. Copyright, 1896, by Rand, McNally & Co. TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGE I. AN INTRODUCTION TO WASHINGTON. -.. 7 Railways, Cabs, Hotels, Restaurants, etc 7 District and Municipal Affairs - -. 13 11. A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL.... 18 III. THE NEW BUILDING FOR THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.. 49 IV. ON CAPITOL HILL 56 V. FROM THE CAPITOL TO THE WHITE HOUSE 62 A Walk on Pennsj'lvania Avenue 62 VI. AT THE EXECUTIVE MANSION . 69 VII. THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS ..._-. " 76 92 VIIL FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS The Washington Monument... 92 Some Scientific Departments 98 IX. HISTORIC AND PICTURESgUE WASHINGTON 109 X. OFFICIAL ETIQUETTE AT THE CAPITAL ,.. 127 XL CHURCHES, ART GALLERIES, THEATERS, CLUBS, ETC 133 XII. EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON 139 ^ I. To Mount Vernon 139 2. To Arlington and Fort Myer 145 3. To the Soldiers' Home, Rock Creek Church, Fort Stevens, Battle and National Cemeteries, the Catholic University, and Brookland 148 4. To the ''Zoo," Rock Creek Park, and Chevy Chase 153 5. Georgetown and its Vicinity... 155 6. Georgetown to Tennallytown and Glen Echo 158 7. Georgetown to Great Falls 159 8. To Bladensburg and Kendall Green - 1G2 LIST OF THE DIPLOMATIC CORPS 164 LIST OF WASHINGTON CHURCHES 165 C3) LATE IMPORTANT BOOKS MEMOIRS OF AN ARTIST, an Autobiography. By CHARLES GOUNOD. A work of extreme charm and interest. CLOTH. $1.26 ^OUNG GREER OF KENTUCKY. By ELEANOR TALBOT KINKEAD. A story of modern Kentucky life. CLOTH, $1.25 JTRENGTH, a Treatise on the Development and Use of Muscle. By C. A. SAMPSON. A simple and effective course of athletic exercises, specially suited for home use, by the champion " strong man " of the world. CLOTH. $1.00 PHE BIG BOW MYSTERY. By I, ZANGWILL. A story of mystery in this popular author's best vein, with an intensely amusing special introduction, written by him for this, the American, edition. CLOTH, 75 CENTS V MAN OF MARK. By ANTHONY HOPE. CLOTH, 75 CENTS Rand. McNally & Co., Publishers, CHICAGO AND NEW YORK. PREFATORY NOTE. This is an attempt to make a really "handy" guide-book to the capital of the United States — a city frequented more than any other in the country by sight-seers. It is neither an encyclopedia nor a history; nor does it presume to select for you what you should like and what you should dislike. If it contains errors — as is almost inevitable to a first edition of such a book, in spite of all care — the w^riter will be thankful to have them pointed out in order that they may be corrected in future editions; and he will welcome suggestions or information as to how the book may be bettered in any direction. The writer's grateful acknowledgments are already due to many persons who have assisted him with their knowledge and counsel, including several busy officials who have supervised those parts relating to their departments of governmental work. Thanks are particularly due to Miss Helena McCarthy and Mr. William Elroy Curtis, both well-known journalists, who gave the author valuable help in treating the residential and social aspects of the capital. (5) AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN PLAN ABSOLUTELY FIRE-PROOF I. AN INTRODUCTION TO WASH INGTON. Railways, Cabs, Hotels, Restaurants, Etc. Washington has two railway stations and one steamboat landing. The railway stations are: (i) Baltimore & Ohio Station, at New Jersey Avenue and C Street, one block north of the Capitol grounds. Into this old, ante- bellum station of the oldest working railroad in the country come the Royal Blue and all other trains of the Baltimore 8c Ohio system and its connections from the North and West, and from the South by way of the Shenandoah Valley. Cable and horse cars may be taken here for any part of the city, and baggage -^vagons and hacks will be found in waiting. It has no restaurant, but several exist near by. (2) Pennsylvania Railroad Station, at Sixth and B streets. This is half a block from Pennsylvania Avenue, midway between the Capitol and the Treasury, and convenient to street-cars. Carriages and express-wagons are always in waiting. This is the station for all trains of the Pennsylvania (Baltimore & Potomac) and Northern Central railroads and their connections north and east, including the through trains to and from Boston; and for trains to and from the South over the Southern Railway, Atlantic Coast Line, Chesapeake & Ohio Railroad, and Seaboard Air Line. There is an excellent restaurant in the building, which, though rather small, is convenient. T/ie shooting of President Garfield, July 2, 1881, by the assassin Guiteau, took place in this building, and a metal star in the floor, near the inner entrance to the ladies' waiting-room, marks the spot where Garfield fell. The President was walking to his train, leaning upon the arm of James G. Blaine, his Secretary of State, when Guiteau came behind him and fired a heavy revolver bullet into his back. The assassin w^as immediately seized, and soon after was tried, convicted, and hanged. (7) 8 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. The Steamboat Landing for all Potomac boats and ferries — Nor- folk, Mount Vernon, Alexandria, etc. — is at the foot of Seventh Street, the terminus of the Seventh Street street-car cable line. The Street-car System of the city is extensive and convenient, and lines of herdic coaches run upon some streets not traversed by tramways. Most of the tramways are operated either by cablcb or by the conduit system of underground trolleys, first made effective here. No overhead trolley wires are allowed within the city proper. The fare is 5 cents; but all the lines sell packages of six tickets for 25 cents, good upon any and every line of street-cars or herdics. The system of free transfer is so extensive that a person rarely has to pay two fares within the city limits. Hacks and Cabs are numerous, and not expensive, and the smooth asphalt pavements make their use a pleasure. The author- ized rates are as f ohows : One-Horse Vehicles. By -the trip — Day rates, between 5.00 a. m. and 12.30 A. M., each passenger, fifteen squares or less, 25 cents; each additional five squares or parts of squares, 10 cents. Midnight rates, between 12.30 a. m. and 5.00 a. m., each passenger, fifteen squares or less, 40 cents; each additional five squares or parts of squares, 15 cents. By the hour — Day rates, one or two passengers, first hour, 75 cents; each additional quarter hour or part thereof, 20 cents. Three or four passengers, first hour, $1; each additional quarter hour or part thereof, 25 cents. Midnight rates about double these. Two- Horse Vehicles. — About double the rates for one-horse cabs. The law says that when vehicles are not engaged by the hour, trip rates shall be charged; but when charges for consecutive trips exceed rates per hour, charges shall be by the hour. Bicycles are extremely numerous in Washington, and man}'- places exist where they can be rented. The law requires them to keep off the sidewalks, avoid excessive speed, and carry lamps at night. The favorite out-of-town run is up the Potomac. The Hotels of Washington are as numerous as would be expected in a city so constantly frequented by strangers ; and, as of late the leading boarding-houses have taken to assuming names and mount- ing signs over their doors, it is difficult to tell where the hotel list really ends and that of the boarding-houses begins. The following alphabetical list embraces, certainly, all the prominent and legitimate hotels, with some notes upon them calculated to assist the stranger in making a choice. Most of these have carriages awaiting trains at the railway stations ; but all are accessible by street-cars, and most of them are in the northwest quarter, within a quarter of a mile of AA'^ INTRODUCTION TO WASHINGTON. 9 the Treasury. The rate mentioned is the lowest ordinary transient rate by the day ; a higher price must be paid for superior accommo- dations, and lower terms may be made by the month. Indeed, it is true, though not generally understood, that for a long stay a man or a family can live just as cheaply at a good hotel as at a private boarding-house, and can thus obtain many advantages which no private house will afford him. AN ANNOTATED LIST OF HOTELS. The Arlington. — Lafayette Square facing Vermont Avenue, $5. This hotel, which has steadily increased its size and accommodations, until it is now the largest first-class hotel in the city, has been dis- tinguished for many years as the abode of great people, many cabinet officers and the like making it their permanent home, and holding conferences under its roof that have modified the policy and history of the whole country. Here royal and distinguished guests have been entertained, and many notable balls and dinners have been given. Arno, at I and Sixteenth streets, is a new and brilliant sort of house, frequented by prominent politicians and society people, many of whom dwell there permanently. Terms, $3. Bancroft, at Eighteenth and H streets, is a pleasant hotel, largely occupied by families. Terms, $3. Chamberlin's, corner of Fifteenth and I streets. An expensive restaurant (p. 12), with a few rooms, chiefly permanently occupied. Cockraiiy Fourteenth and K streets. Terms, $3. Ebbitt, F Street, corner of Fourteenth, $3. One of the foremost hotels for business men and political travelers, which built up a wide reputation years ago by cultivating a special patronage among Army and Navy officers. It is favorably situated for sight-seers. Elsjnere, No. 1408 H Street. A handsome little hotel occupy- ing the former home of Senator Zach. Chandler, and the house used for a long time by the Alabama Claims Commission. Terms, $2. '- EtnricJis, a small German hotel and restaurant, opposite the Bal- timore & Ohio Railroad Station, European plan, 75 cents. Fredo7tia, a quiet, family hotel, very favorably situated near where New York Avenue crosses H and Twelfth streets. Terms, $2. Hamilton, Fourteenth and K streets, $2.50. An old-time house where many Congressmen reside. Howard, Pennsylvania Avenue and Sixth Street. A small, inex- pensive hotel on the European plan. 10 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. The Hotel Johnsouy on Thirteenth Street, near Pennsylvania Avenue, is a hotel on the European plan, $i, patronized almost wholly by men, chiefly those interested in theatrical and racing topics, and having a public restaurant. Laiureiice, E Street near Thirteenth. European, 75 cents. La Fetra's Hotel, at G and Eleventh streets, is in the midst of the shopping district. It has the distinction of being conducted upon temperance principles, and is filled with sober-minded folk, who find themselves very comfortable. Terms, $2. The restaurant (entrance on Eleventh Street) is a favorite luncheon place for ladies out shopping. La Normandie, on Fifteenth Street at I, faces McPherson Square, is large, new, and elegant, and has become a favorite among people of taste and means. Terms. $4. See illustration opposite p. 118. The Metropolitan, on Pennsylvania Avenue, between Sixth and Seventh streets, has more rooms t^an any in the city, and is a popular stopping place with politicians, as many Congressmen and influential officials board there. There has been a hotel on this site for almost a hundred years (p. 63). Terms, I2.50. The National, Pennsylvania Avenue, at the corner of Sixth Street, is another ancient hotel, patronized mainly by politicians, especially froin the South. It was the scene of famous doings in Clay and Webster's times (p. 63). Terms. $2.50. Oxford, New York Avenue and Fourteenth Street. A comfortable, quiet hotel, centrally located, and having many prominent boarders. Conducted on the European and American plans. Terms, $2.50. The Hotel Page has refitted the quarters at No. 734 Fifteenth Street (the next block above the Treasury), long famous as Welcker's, where many a snug congressional or lobbyist "little dinner" was given. The present regime is thoroughly Northern, and the fine restaurant attached is conducted upon New England theories of cook- ing — one of the modern innovations in Washington, whose hotel cooks hitherto have been of Southern training. European plan, %\. The Raleigh occupies a tall building at Pennsylvania Avenue and Twelfth Street, conducted on the European plan, $1, and having a public restaurant on the ground floor. The Regejit, on the south side of Pennsylvania Avenue at Fif- teenth Street, has an admirable situation, its bedroom windows over- looking the beautiful Executive Grounds and the Potomac. Terms, $3. Riggs House, Fifteenth Street, corner of G. This large and handsome hotel has a singularly good situation at the very center of STATUE OF ADMIRAL DAVID G. FARRAGUT IN FARRAGUT SQUARE. (See page 123.) AiY LVTRODUCTWA' TO WASHINGTOh^. 11 the city, and has long merited its high reputation. Few modern hotels have the large, airy rooms and old-fashioned elegance main- tained here, and the table is excellent, attracting a high class of patronage. Rates, $3 to $4. The St. James, at Pennsylvania Avenue and Sixth Street, on the European plan ($1), has been a stopping-place for business men for forty years or so. The Shoreham, at I and Fifteenth streets, near McPherson Square, is the newest first-class hotel in the city; has a lofty, hand- some fire-proof building, with every convenience for luxurious living, and a central situation. It has numbered among its guests the high- est in the land, and has been the scene of many fashionable dinners and receptions. Conducted on both European and American plans; $4 to $5. The Hotel Vartiiwi is a small, comfortable house on Capitol Hill, at New Jersey Avenue and C Street. S. E. Terms, $2. The Veiidome is an excellent, inexpensive hotel on Pennsylvania Avenue at Third Street, near the Capitol. Conducted on both Euro- pean and American plans — $2 to $3. Willard's, at the corner of Pennsylvania Avenue and Fourteenth Street, is identified with the history of Washington (p. 66), where, especially just before and during the Civil War, it was the one great house of entertainment. It is of great size, and is still the resort of politicians and office-seekers, especially from the South. Terms, $3. Certain additional hotels, or regular boarding-houses, which receive short-term boarders at from $40 to $75 a month, but are mainly the homes of families, are as follows : The Anderson, 340 C Street. The Aston, Eleventh and G streets. The Buckingham, 918 Fifteenth Street. The Clarendon, Fourteenth and I streets. Congressional Hotel, New Jersey Avenue and B Street, S. E. The Dunbarton, 623 Pennsylvania Avenue. The Eckington, Third and T streets, N. E., Eckington. The Everett, 1723 H Street. The Grammercy, Vermont Avenue, opposite Arlington Hotel. Hillman Plouse, 226 North Capitol Street. The Irvington, 1416 K Street. The Lincoln, Tenth and H streets. The Litchfield, Fourteenth Street, between I and K streets. 12 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. The Morrisett, Fourteenth and H streets. The Rochester, Thirteenth and G streets. The Windsor, New York Avenue and Fifteenth Street. Restaurants have multiplied and improved in Washington during the last ten years, which have also witnessed the disappearance of the old-fashioned, village-like custom of eating dinner as soon after 4.00 o'clock as office hours would permit. Now AVashingtonians, gentle and simple, lunch at i.oo and dine at 6.00 to 8.00, like other Christians. The most famous restaurants in Washington, since the disappear- ance of Wormley's and Welcker's, are Chamberlin s and Harvey's. The former occupies a double house at 1 and Fifteenth streets and serves game and costly delicacies beloved of clubmen, prepared in the southern style which has made his terrapin, canvas-backs, etc., celebrated. The other, Harvey s, at Pennsylvania Avenue and Eleventh Street, is noted for its oysters. These and the S/ioreha//i, Page's, and the Raleigh are favorite resorts for after-the-theater suppers. The Losekam, 1225 F Street; the Bedford, Thirteenth and F streets, and La Fetra's (p. 10) are patronized largely by ladies, who can also find, on F, G, Ninth, Seventh, and other streets in the region near the public buildings, a large number of dairies, bakeries, ice-cream saloons, and eating-places of every grade, resorted to by government clerks, men and women, high and low. Dining-rooms are numerous on the Avenue and in Georgetown. The restaurants in the Capitol are good and not expensive, especially Page's in the Senate basement, and there is a good one at the National Museum. No distinctly French or Italian table d'hote has yet been opened in Washington, but several German establishments furnishing meals are known to those fond of German dishes and beer. Professional boarding-houses are plentiful, particularly in the region north of the Avenue, between Tenth and Fourteenth streets, and in the neighborhood of the Pension Building; and this quarter also abounds in private houses renting rooms and perhaps furnishing board. All these are indicated by small signs displayed at the door , or in a window. The best plan for a person desiring such quarters is to walk about, observe these signs, and examine what suits him. A man and his wife can get very comfortable lodging and board for $75 a month. Apartment Houses have begun to arise in Washington, of which the most conspicuous is the lofty Cairo, on Q Street, between Six- teenth and Seventeenth. Other fine apartment houses and family A.V INTRODUCTION TO WASHINGTON. 13 hotels are The A lb any (for gentlemen onl}-), H and Seventeenth streets ; The Cambri'dg-e, 1309 Seventeenth Street; The Cliftoii, Massachu- setts Avenue and Fourteenth Street; The Concord, New Hampshire Avenue, between S and T streets; The Frederick, Ninth and K streets; The Grafton, 1139 Connecticut Avenue; The Portland, Thomas Circle; The Richni07id, Seventeenth and H streets, and The Woodmont , Iowa Circle. The Shops of Washington are extensive and fine, for it is a city which calls for a good appearance and generous living on the part of its citizens. It is a city, moreover, where the strangers who come spend money. The principal shopping streets are Pennsylvania Avenue, Seventh, Ninth, F and G streets between Ninth and Four- teenth streets, but there are local groups of stores, especially for provisions, on Capitol Hill and in Georgetown. District and Municipal Affairs. The District of Columbia had a peculiar origin, and its constitution and history account for many of the peculiarities of the present capital city. The first Congress of the United States had the task of establishing a Federal capital, under a plan for taking in some small tract of land and exercising exclusive jurisdiction over it. In 1790 a bill was passed, after many postponements and much hot discussion, accepting from the States of Maryland and Virginia a tract ten miles square on the Potomac, to be called the District of Columbia; but in 1846 Virginia's portion — some thirty-six square miles south of the river — was ceded back to her. Three Commis- sioners were appointed by the President (Washingtor^) to purchase the land from its owners, and to provide suitable buildings for the President, Congress, and the public offices of the Government, but they had much difficulty in the first matter, as the inhabitants 'declined to sell their property at any reasonable price. Major Pierre Charles L'Enfant, a French engineer who had fought in the Revolu- tion, was appointed by the Commissioners to lay out the city within the District, but proved so irreconcilable to discipline that it became necessary to dismiss him, though his plan was essentially followed by Ellicott, his assistant, who succeeded him. It is to L'Enfant, consequently, that we owe the broad, radiating avenues, superim- posed upon a plan of rectilinear streets, which cut across the avenues at man)^ angles, and thus form oddly shaped lots that have stimu- lated the genius of landscape gardeners and architects. 14 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. The avenues were named after the States, and in a certain order. By reason of its midway and influential position, that had already given it the excellent soubriquet. Keystone State, Pennsylvania was entitled to the name of the great central avenue. The avenues south of this received the names of the Southern States ; the avenues which crossed Pennsylvania were named after the Middle States, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, and New York, while the New England States were left to designate the avenues then regarded as remote possibilities among the swamps and hills of the northwest. The curious way in which the capital has developed along the lines of the last-named group is typical of the growth and change in the balance of the whole country since L'Enfant's day. The rectilinear streets run exactly north and south and east and west. The streets running east and west are known by the letters of the alphabet, so we have North A and South A, North B and South B, and so on ; at right angles to the alphabetical streets are the streets bearing numbers, and beginning their house enumeration at a line running due north and south through the Capitol. This divides the city into four quarters, Northwest, Northeast, Southeast, and Southwest, each with its own set of numbers for the houses, arranged upon the decimal system — that is, loo numbers for each block. This is repeated in a direction away from each of the Capitol streets; all addresses, therefore, should bear the added designa- tion of the quarter by its initials— N.W., N.E.,S.E,, orS,"W. In this book, as nearly everything mentioned is in \hQ Northwest Quarter, these initials are uniformly omitted for that quarter, but are always supplied elsewhere. In 1800 the seat of Government was established (p, 19) in Wash-. ington, which was first so called, it is said, by the Commissioners in 1 791. The General himself, who was its most active promoter, always spoke of it as the Federal City. The town was all in the woods, and had only 3,000 inhabitants, mostly living in the northwestern quarter, or on Capitol Hill. Nevertheless it grew until 1814, when, after a weak resistance at Bladensburg, it was captured by the British, who set fire to the public buildings and some private residences, intending to destroy the town altogether. A hurricane of wind and rain came that night to complete the destruction in some respects, but this extinguished the conflagration. Next day the British left in a panic of causeless fear, excepting a large contingent of deserters, who took this opportunity to stay behind and "grow up with the country." A.V INTRODUCTION TO WASHINGTON. - 15 The city was immediately rebuilt, and in i860 it contained 61,000 inhabitants. When the Civil War broke out, Washington at once became the focus of attention from the whole country — a distributing point for Union troops, and a visionary point of attack by Confeder- ates; but it was well protected by forts and never had but one menace of importance (pp. 148, 149). When the war was over and the city found itself with an enlarged population and a vastly greater importance, attention was directed to its improvement, emphasized by a determined attack upon it by Western men, who tried to move the capital to some point west of the Mississippi. The population of the District — which is a fairer statement than to quote the city merely — is now about 275,000, and it is steadily grow- ing. In 1800 it was 14,093, when the District held the nineteenth rank; now the rank is thirty-ninth — showing how much more rap- idly other more commercial towns have outrun this community. About one-third of the population is colored, but aliens are very few. -^ The wealth of the District is shown by taxable property to the value of $191,500,000, to which must be added more than $200,000,000 of exempt property, chiefly belonging to the Federal Government, which, in lieu of assessed taxes, contributes one-half of all the Dis- I trict's expenses, and practically has done much more than that in the j form of public gr,ounds, boulevards, and reservations free to the pub- ( lie and maintained at the public expense. The total expenditure of I the United States for permanent buildings, improvements, and embel- ' lishments within the District, probably closely approaches $100,- 000,000, but the results are worth far more than that. The Relations of the District and Federal City to the Union are very peculiar. . The District — all of which south of the Potomac was returned to Virginia in 1846 — was accepted as territory belonging wholly to the Union, and to be governed directly by Congress. By the bargain made with the owners of the soil they deeded their lands in trust to two trustees, with an agreement that they should make such use of the area in laying out a city as they saw fit ; that all land taken for streets, avenues, and alleys should be a free gift to the United States ; that the lands .selected for any reservations, or for public buildings, parks, etc., should be paid for at $66.66 per acre ; that the remainder should be laid out into squares and lots, to be divided equally between the original proprietors and the Government. It was agreed that the 10,136 city lots thus falling to the share of the Government should constitute a " city fund" to be used for assisting 16 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. in the erection of the public buildings and for opening and making the streets ; and it was from the sale of these lots that the money for beginning the Capitol and the White House was raised. The land these and nearly all the other public buildings stand on cost the Gov- ernment nothing whatever. More than half the whole area of the city is reserved in streets and parks. In opening and preparing these streets and parks the early Government bore all the expense ; and, on the other hand, it retained entire control of the community. Never- theless it was understood that in purely local matters the principle of "home rule " was to apply. In accordance with that idea Congress not only continued the municipal government already existing at Alexandria and George- town, but, on May 3, 1802, established a municipal government, consisting of a mayor, board of aldermen, and council, for Washing- ton, which, with various modifications, was continued for 70 years. In 1871, however, when the effort was made to move the Govern- ment into the West, friends of the city saw that something was needed to be done to make Washington more dignified, healthful, and attractive. The story of this has been so tersely told, in their excellent book, " The National Capital," by Hutchins & Moore, that I can not do better than ([uote it: " The movement for improving it was started by Alexander R. Shepherd, who afterwards became governor of the District under the territorial form of government established by Congress. The com- mon saying is that ' vShepherd lifted Washington out of the mud,' and it is undoubtedly true that to him the credit is due for the begin- ning and successful continuing of the vast improvements made in all parts of the city within a few years after 1871. Shepherd was a man of indomitable will, and he had determined that the National capital should no longer be a comfortless, repulsive place, but that it should become a metropolis in fact as well as in name, and an object of pride and admiration to the people of the country. He secured the friendship of President Grant, and awakened Congress to an interest in the affairs of Washington. He gained support in his plans from some of the prominent 'citizens, and he induced capitalists in the Northern cities to invest in the District bonds. Congress passed a bill to abolish the old municipal government, putting in place of it a territorial government, with a governor and legislature. The Board of Public Works was organized, with Shepherd at its head, and the work of improvement was begun. An army of laborers was set to work to grade and pave the streets and avenues, to cut down and remove banks and obstructions, to reconstruct the sidewalks, to cover over the old canal, which had long beei^ a nuisance, to set out thousands of trees, to develop the parks, squares, and circles, tc AN IN TR OD UC TION TO IV A SHING TON. 1 7 build sewers and lay water-pipes, and to do many other things which would improve and beautify the city. "In a few years an almost incredible amount of work had been done. The old slovenly city had nearly disappeared. Fine business buildings and residences, churches and school-houses, new markets, new hotels, were erected. Shepherd's will was law, and his fierce energy pervaded everything. At least twenty-five millions were expended in the improvements, and the result was that AYashington, after three-quarters of a century, became what had been predicted of it when it was founded — a magnificent capital." This, however, cost a great deal of money, and raised the taxes to la figure that made a mighty outcry, put an end to much work before completion, and sent Mr. Shepherd a-flying with many hard names hurled after him. (He came back in '95, and was vindicated by a tremendous popular reception.) Congress again changed the form of local government, in 1878, and created the new arrangement now in practice. This consists simply of two civilian Commissioners 'appointed by the President and confirmed by the Senate, and one lArmy engineer officer detailed by the Secretary of War, the three (Constituting a Board of Commissioners for three years. They are 'empowered by Congress to make, and change at will, building, health, and police regulations. They also appoint all subordinate officials ,and clerks. ' They are required to make and submit to the Secretary of the Treasury, annual estimates for all the expenditures within the District |for the ensuing year. The tax-rate is fixed and taxes assigned by ,(Act of Congress, and the taxes, when collected, are deposited in the .United States Treasury so that not a cent can be expended for any [purpose except as appropriated annually by Congress. One half of |the amount to be raised is assessed upon the District, the other half jis appropriated b}^ Congress. The headquarters of District affairs is |in the District Building on First Street, between B and C, The ■District courts, except the Police Court, are in the City Hall, an old jbuilding in Judiciary Square, facing Four-and-a-half Street, where Ithe Marshal and certain other functionaries also have offices. It was ;in this building, built for the court house, that Garfield's assassin, ' IGuiteau, was tried, and other noted cases have been heard there. In ffront of it, upon a marble column, stands a monument of Lincoln carved by Lot Flannery, who has been described as a " self-taught sculptor." There is a certain rough vigor about it, but the tall shaft and big figure irresistibly suggest an ornamental umbrella handle. II. A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. The great advantage that Washington enjoys in having been intelligently platted before any building of consequence had begun, is signally shown in the choice of this central and sightly hilltoj^ as the position of the Capitol. The grounds in front of the building were made perfectly level, but in the rear they sloped downward some eighty feet to the Potomac flats, which are overflowed occa- sionally even yet. The present arrangement of the park dates from 1874, when it was enlarged to its present enclosure of forty-six acres, and beautified by the late Frederick Law Olmstead. The splendid marble terraces on the western side of the building, and their orna- mental approaches, together costing $200,000, are a part of the gen- eral scheme of out-door decoration , which each year becomes more admirable as the trees and shrubberies mature. Many attempts have been made to include foreign trees, beds of wild flowers, and memorial trees, planted by distinguished persons, but these have failed to survive in almost every instance. A pretty feature of the northwestern part of the park is the iv3^-covered resf-kouse, one window of which looks into a grotto. The low stone towers, becoming vine-covered, in the western parts of the park, are the orifices through which is drawn the supply of fresh air for the ventilation of the Senate chamber and hall of Representatives. Immediately in front (east) of the Capitol is the Plaza, where vast crowds assemble to witness presidential inaugurations, and w^here the street-cars and carriages land their passengers; and here, facing the main entrance, stands G?'eeiioiigJi' s statue of IVas/ii'ngton, sitting in a curule chair as the first great tribune of the American people. A statue of Washington was ordered by Congress in 1832, to signalize the centennial anniversary of his birth. The commission (18) VISITORS TO WASHINGTON are cordially invited to visit tlie well-known JEWELRY ESTABLISHMENT OF fV|^^pp ^ LEDING where every courtesy will be shown them, whether they desire to purchase or wish merely to examine the many beautiful things exhibited there. A VISIT IMPLIES NO OBLIGATION TO PURCHASE OUR LATEST PRODUCTION. European Novelties Among our recent importations are some choice specimens of English Dcultcn Ware Mounted in "Hall-Marked " Siluer. Artistic reproductions of Paris and Vienna Bronzes and Statuettes. Inniinitrable odd piec» s not to bo seen elsewht'ie. The Largest Assortinent of High-Class Souvenirs of Washington IN GOLD AND SILVER To be found in the Capital City. Orig^inal and Patented Designs. SOUVENIR CARD RECEIVER. THE *' MOORE & LEDINC WATCH Is especially recommended for its accurate time- keeping qualities. May be had in gold or silver cases. OUR STOCK OF ^ Diamonds, Emeralds, Rubies, Opais, Sapphires, AND OTHER PRECIOUS STONES, Mounted in settings of the highest artistic excellence in Rings, Brooches, Pendants, etc.. Is at all times large and varied. WASHINGTON MONUMENT COFFEE SPOON. MASONIC CHARMS AND BADGES Every facility for the repairing of Watches and Jewelry at short notice for travelers. WASHINGTON PAPER CUTTER. CHRISTIAN ENDEAVOR BADGES AND PINS i/ERNON COFFEE SPOON MOORE & LEDING, SlS^,^"^"' 109 Pennsylvania Ave., N. W., WASHINGTON, D. C. A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 19 was given to Horatio Greenough,* who was then residing in Flor- ence, Italy, the only restriction upon the execution of his plan being that it should not be equestrian, and that the countenance should conform to that of the Houdon statue. His price of $20,000 ;was accepted, and he devoted the principal part of his time for eight years to its completion. The intention was to place this statue in the center of the rotunda, over the mausoleum provided for Wash- ington in the undercroft (p. 38); but by the time it was completed and had been brought here in a special ship (1841), the idea of placing the bones of Washington in the Capitol had been abandoned, and the sculptor himself objected to setting it in the rotunda, because of the improper light there. After much discussion, therefore, it was decided to leave it out-of-doors. This statue, which is covered from the weather in winter and invisible, is of Carrara marble, and repre- sents, in heroic size, the Father of his Country in a Roman toga, which has slipped from his shoulders, lifting a hand of warning and ; advice to the nation. As a work of art, it has caused great contro- versy among people of taste. It is probable that we know too much of Washington as a man — he is too near to us — to make an attempt at classic idealization of him seem natural or pleasing. Beginnings of the Capitol. — The act of Congress of July 9, 1790, which established the District of Columbia as the National Capital , 'provided that prior to the first Monday of December, 1800, the Com- 'missioners charged with carrying out the law should have finished a .suitable building for the sessions of Congress. When the Commis- isioners had accepted L'Enfant's plan for the city, they found this hill selected by him as the site of the National legislative halls, and as soon as the Commissioners could accumulate money enough from (their land sales to make a respectable showing, they began the erec- ition of the two buildings first needed — the E«;ecutive Mansion and the Congressional halls and offices, which, at Jefferson's suggestion, it is jsaid, came to be called the Capitol. One of the interesting features of jearly life at the seat of Government is the degree to which formal classics ruled in taste. The corner-stones were laid with Masonic (rites and all possible parade, George Washington officiating; and 'there followed much speechmaking, firing of guns, and dining in honor of both these auspicious occasions. October 13, 1792, was the date I at the President's House ; but the corner-stone of the Capitol was not ,laid until September 18, 1793. Materials were slow and uncertain, the I funds gave out from time to time, and had not Virginia and Maryland * Horatio Greenough was a native of Boston (1805), but spent most of his life in Italy, where he modeled many sculptures, including several to be mentioned in future pages, and a colossal group, entitled " The Rescixe," made for this Gov- \ ernment, upon which he spent eight years, but which has never been executed. j He died in 1852, and his biography was written in 1853 ^Y Tuckerman. His \ brother, Richard S., (p. 32) was also a sculptor. 20 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. advanced the money Congress refused, the work would have stopped altogether. The town was yet only a muddy village in the woods ; and the Commissioners had to fight opposition and obstacles at every step. Nevertheless an edifice, such as it was, was ready for the Gov- ernment, which came from Philadelphia, bag and baggage, in a single sloop, and took possession during October, 1800. Whose was the plait has excited much controversy, for several minds contributed. The original sketch came from Doctor Thornton, a native of the West Indies, and then in charge of the Patent Office, and so pleased Washington that it was adopted. The plans were redrawn by Stephen H. Hallett, who was a student of Nash, the most famous house-builder of his time. Hoban, the architect of the White House, and others made suggestions, so that Thornton's plan was much modified; still less did it foreshadow the Capitol of to-day. Only the north w4ng, or that part of the main building containing the present Supreme Court rooms (p. 45), was finished in 1800, the opposite wing not being ready until 181 1. A wooden passageway connected them across the space now occupied by the basement of the rotunda. The expenditure up to that time had been $787,000. When, in 18 14, the British captured the city they entered the legis- lative halls, held a mock session of Congress, and soon the building was in flames. In 181 5 Congress authorized the Secretary of the Treasury to borrow $500,000 to begin repairs (for walls stood), and in 181 8 undertook the erection of the central part. B. H. Latrobe* took the architectural superintendence of the restoration, while the new central structure was planned and supervised by Charles Bulfinch. The original building was completed in 1827, at a cost, including the grading of the grounds, repairs, etc., of not quite 12,500,000. A fire in the library compelled the rebuilding of the western front in 1851, when additions were made, and the same year the corner-stones of the extensions, now known as the House and Senate wings, were laid; but these were not completed until 1859 (at a cost of nearly $9,000,000). Meanwhile the low wooden dome which had temporarily covered the rotunda was removed in 1856, and the erection of the present iron dome was begun. Add to the sums above noted a million dollars for additional * Benjamin H. Latrobe, born in England in 1764, died in New Orleans, i82o< was the foremost engineer and architect of his time. He became Surveyor of Public Buildings for the United States in 1803, and remained in office, exercising a broad and refined influence, until his resignation in 1817, and to him the Capitol owes its best features. His successor was Charles Bulfinch of Massachusetts, who had planned the State House, City Hall, and Faneuil Hall in Boston, and many other public edifices in New England. Mr. Bulfinch remained in charge of the Capitol until 1830. A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL 21 space for the grounds and the obtaining of water, two millions for improvements of the grounds and terraces, another million for repairs and improvements on the building itself, and various other items, and the cost of the Capitol to the present time approaches $15,000,000. The Front. — The original and proper front of the Capitol is the eastern, and the city has grown behind rather than before the state house of the nation, as it was expected to do. This contingency has been met by improvements at the rear of the building to increase the stateliness of its approaches, so that the Capitol now has two faces, different but substantially equal in merit. This new w^estern front, although on the side from which most visitors approach, requires a long, toilsome climbing of terraces and steps; whereas the street-cars and herdics carry passengers to the level of the basement on the south side, and on the north side almost to the very entrance. It is therefore easier, as well as more proper, to begin one's survey of the great structure at the architect's original front door. This eastern front is the one usually represented in pictures, and it is imposing from every standpoint. One of the most satisfactory views of it is that obtained from the little car-passengers' shelter on the north side of the grounds. The massive and classic proportions of the Senate wing are near at hand, and its ornamental front cuts deeply into the dome, whose supports sink away in grand perspective to the Representative wing, while the majestic dome itself rises tier upon tier of columns and circling architraves to its convergent roof and statue-crowned tholus. There is a wonderful feeling of breadth and grandeur, yet of buoyancy, in this oblique aspect of the noble pile — all sunny white, save the color in the folds of the flag. The Capitol is 751 feet long, 350 feet in greatest width, and covers nearly four acres of ground, with 153,112 square feet of floor space. It is 155 feet high to the cornices of the main roof, or 288 feet to the crest of the Liberty statue. The dome of St. Paul's, in London, measures 404 feet to the top of its cross. The architecture is modified Corinthian upon a rustic base, plus a dome, and the material of the older central part is Virginia (Aquia Creek) sandstone, painted white, but the newer wings are built of Massachusetts marble. In front of the building stretches a broad paved plaza, and three flights of broad steps lead up to the central entrance and to each wnng, lending a very effective appearance of breadth and solidity to the whole mass, whose walls are largely hidden by the rows of mono- lithic, fluted columns of Maryland marble that sustain the three broad porticos. The porticos of the wings have each twenty-two columns, 3 23 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. and ten more columns on each of their northern and western fronts. The pediment of the southern wing, which contains the House of Representatives, has no statuary as yet, though designs for it were made by Crawford; but the facade of the northern wing, where the Senate sits, is doubly adorned. The tympanum is filled with an immense group by Thomas Crawford, emblematic of American prog- ress, which has displaced the Indians with the arts of agriculture, corhmerce, and industrial production, supported by the sword. This is considered the chef d'osuvre of this talented American sculptor * and will repay careful study. Crawford was paid $17,000 for the models, and the cutting of the marble (from Lee, Mass.) by several skilled Italian carvers cost |26,ooo more. The grand centi'al p07'tico, which dates from 1825, is 160 feet wide, and has twenty-four columns carrying a pediment of 80 feet span filled with an allegorical group cut in sandstone, after a design by John Quincy Adams when Secretary of State. It was executed by Luigi Persico, a prominent Roman sculptor, who had many commissions here. This group represents the "Genius of America." America, armed, is resting her shield upon an altar, while an eagle perches at her feet. She seems listening to Hope, and points in response to Justice, who holds the Constitution and her scales. From the level of the IDortico extend two great buttresses, each adorned with pieces of colos- sal statuary in marble. That upon the south side represents Colum- bus, and is entitled " The Discovery of America." The sculptor was Persico (1S46), who exactly copied the armor from a suit worn by Col- umbus, yet preserved in Genoa. The opposite group (north) is by Greenough, and represents an incident of frontier life as typical of " Civilization, or the First Settlement of America." Each of these groups cost $24,000. The inaugiiratioii of Pi'esidents of the United States has taken place upon this portico since the time of Jackson. A draped staging is extended outward to accommodate the high officials who form a part of the ceremonial, and here the oath of office is administered by the Chief Justice in full view of a multitude of citizens. The only time when the public was kept at a distance was at the first inauguration of Lincoln, when the District militia guarded the stand and its neighborhood, and every window was filled with riflemen. ')*Thomas Crawford was born in New York in 1814, and died in London in 1857. He early became a student of Thorwaldsen, at Rome, and afterward rose to eminence there as a sculptor. Of his numerous works the best known ar.e the iTiarble "Last of His Race" and "Peri," in the New York Historical Society ; the bronze equestrian "Washington," at Richmond, Va. ; and his works'here. His bust, by Crittenden, is in Statuary Hall (p. 28). THE ROGERS BRONZE DOOR. Eastern or Mam Entrance to the Capitol, A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 23 In the center of this portico is the great Rogers bronze door, which opens directly into the rotunda under the dome, and is among the most interesting objects at the Capitol. It was designed in Rome in 1858 by Randolph Rogers*, who received $8,000 for his plaster models, and was cast in Munich, in 1861, by F. von Mliller, who was paid $17,000 in gold, then at a high premium. It is nineteen feet high and weighs ten tons. The leaves or valves of the door, which is double, stand in superbly enriched casing, and when opened fold back into fitting jambs. Each leaf is divided into eight panels, in addition to the transom panel under the arch. Each panel contains a complete scene in alto- relievo. The scenes portrayed constitute the principal events in the life of Columbus and the discovery of America, with an ornate enrichment of emblematic designs. On the key of the arch of the casing is the head of Columbus, and on the sides of the casing are four typical statuettes in niches arranged chronologically — Asia, Africa, Europe, and America. The remainder of the casing is embellished with a running border of ancient armor, banners, and heraldic designs, and at the bottom, on either side, an anchor, all 'in basso-relievo, and emblematic of navigation and conquest. On the frame of each leaf of the door, set in niches, are sixteen statuettes of the patrons and contemporaries of Columbus, given in the order of their association with the announcement and execution of his theory of geographical exploration. The first eight figures are asso- ciated in pairs when the doors are closed, and divided when opened. All are labeled. The sixteenth is Pizarro, conqueror of Peru. The panels illustrate the career of Columbus, the third scene being his audience at the court of Ferdinand and Isabella. Between the panels are a series of heads, representing the historians of the voyages of Columbus, prominent among whom are Irving and Prescott. Niches on each side of this imposing entrance hold statues of War (on the right — a noble figure of a Roman warrior) and of Peace (on the left — insignificant), modeled by Persico and costing together $12,000; while above the door is a bust of Washington, j crowned by Fame and Peace, which was sculptured by A. Capellano I in 1827. Capellano is not known beyond his carvings here. I Passing through the bronze doors, we enter the Rotunda. It occupies nearly the whole width of the center of the building, and I -is unbroken to the summit of the dome. It is 96 feet in diameter ; and 180 feet high to the canopy. Its center is the center of the Capitol. The pavement is of sandstone, and the walls are plastered and broken * Randolph Rogers was born in 1825, studied in Italy from 1848 to 1850, and then opened a studio in New York, but returned to Italy in I855 and remained there until his death in 1892. He made many notable monuments, including that of Washington at Richmond, Va. (begun by Crawford), portrait-statues, and ideal figures of much merit. He stands high on the roll of American sculptors. 24 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. into panels by engaged pillars, above which there is a broad entabla- ture. This is surmounted by a gallery (which has as good a "whisper- ing" echo as that of St. Paul's), formed of Corinthian columns connected by a balustrade; and this gallery and the rotunda are lighted by a belt of large windows, outside of which is the circular row of columns that form the external visible supports of the dome. From the entablature carried upon these pillars springs the concavity of the dome, arching inward to an opening 50 feet in diameter, at the base of the lantern, called the eye. This opening is encircled by a gallery and canopied by a painted ceiling, consisting of a circular piece of iron, covered with stucco, 65 feet wide. (See p. 26.) In the vast and somewhat obscure space of this immense apart- ment only a colossus, like the Statue of Liberty in New York harbor, would seem a fitting ornament. It was proposed to cut away the floor in the center and erect Greenough's figure of Washington, now on the plaza, upon an elevated pedestal approached from the base- ment, or crypt, by encircling flights of steps; but this was not done, and all attempts at decoration have been confined to the walls. Four doors open out of the rotunda, and over each is a marble panel carved in high relief. That over the eastern, or main, entrance and exit is by Enrico Causici of Verona, a pupil of Canova, and represents the "Landing of the Pilgrims"; that over the northern door is by N. Gevelot, a Frenchman, and pictures William Penn mak- ing a treaty with the Delaware Indians ; over the southern door is another group by Causici — "Daniel Boone in Conflict with the Indians" — in which Boone's face was copied from a portrait by Hard- inge, and over the western door is Capellano's " Pocahontas Saving the Life of John Smith. " These sculptors were all men who worked here about 1827, and each was paid $3,500. Each of the lower wall spaces carries one of the big historical paintings (18 by 12 feet), familiar to everybody through innumerable reproductions — even upon the paper currency and Columbian postage stamps of the Government. All are b}'- American artists. Each has attached to it a label giving the names of the persons represented by careful portraits in its groups, and little more than a list is here needed. They fall into two classes — "Early historical" and "Revo- lutionary." The former are to a great degree imaginative, particularly the De Soto; but the latter are accurately true to the times and scenes they purport to represent. In the first class is the "Landing of Columbus at San Salvador," in 1492, painted in 1S39 A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 25 by Van Der Lyn,* who was paid $10,000 for it in 1842. The "Dis- covery of the Mississippi" by De Soto, in 1541, was painted by Powellf, who has closed his eyes to history and let imagination produce a picturesque effact; the date is 1850, and the price was $12,000. The "Baptism of Pocahontas" at Jamestown, in 1613, is nearer the truth, since the artist, J. G. Chapman,:}: did his best to represent the portraits and costumes of Rolfe, Sir Thomas Dale, and other Virginian colonists and Indian chieftains, who may be supposed present at the ceremony. Its cost was $10,000, and its date is 1836. The last of this colonial series, by Professor Weir,§ date 1840, price $10,000, is a picture of the farewell service on board the unseaworthy Speedwell, before it sailed from Delft Haven (the port of Leyden, Holland) for America, bearing the first colony of Pilgrims, who were finally landed on Plymouth Rock by the Mayjiozver. The four Revolutionary paintings are by Col. John Trumbull ( 1 756-1 843), who was son of Gov. Jonathan Trumbull of Connecticut, For several months the young officer was aid and military secretary to Washington. After the war he studied in Europe, and conceived an ambition to produce this series of national paintings, in which each face is drawn from life, so far as sittings could be obtained, while others are copied from approved portraits. This faithfulness of detail interferes with the best artistic results, giving a certain hardness to all parts, but increases the historical value of the com- position. They were painted between 18 17 and 1824, and cost the nation $32,000 — a large sum in those days. The first is "Signing the Declaration of Independence" in the Old Hall in Philadelphia in 1776, the arrangement of the group of figures *John Van Der Lyn was a native of Kingston, N. Y. (1776-1852), who earlv became a pupil of Gilbert Stuart, and later st-udied and resided in Europe. Ot many works his "Marius Seated Amid the Riiins of Carthage" brought him most fame. Returning to America, he devoted himself largely to painting the portraits of public men, and a collection of his sketches remains at Kingston. t "William H. Powell, born in New York in 1823 and died there in 1879, was an historical and portrait painter who began study under Inman and continued it in Florence and Paris. His historical pictures have been widely engraved and are popular in the United States, and his portraits are excellent. (See p. 40). :|:John Gadsby Chapman was born in Alexandria, Va., in 1808; studied art in Italy; was one of the earliest and most active of the members of the National Academy after his return to this country; and lived in New York tor many years as a general painter of high reputation, especially of miniature portraits, and an illustrator of books. He died in 1889. § Robert "W. Weir, who. was born in New York in 1803, was for forty-two years Professor of Drawing at the United States Military Academy (West Point), and painted many historical and landscape pieces of high merit. He was the father of J. Alden and John F. Weir, both accomplished artists and the latter now Professor of Art at* Yale. With the money received for this picture he built the Church of the Holy Innocents at Highland Falls, N. Y. He died in 1889. 26 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. having been made as Jefferson, Franklin, and others of the fathers described it to him. The "Surrender of Burgoyne at Saratoga" is from sketches made by Trumbull on the spot, October 17, 1777. The artist was also present at the "Surrender of Lord Cornwallis at Yorktown," portrayed in the third painting. The fourth of the series is the "Resignation of Washington" as commander-in-chief of the American armies, which took place, closely as depicted, at Annapolis on December 23, 1783, where Congress was then in session in the old Maryland State House. Trumbull painted many pictures besides these, a large collection of which is preserved at Yale College, in New Haven, Conn., as the Trumbull Gallery. Above each of the eight paintings are panels with arabesque designs by Causici and Capellano, containing medallion heads of the four great pioneers of American discovery — Columbus, Raleigh, Cabot, and La Salle. They were done in 1827, and cost $9,500. The Frieze, ten feet wide, just beneath the gallery, was left blank for many years, but in 1878 the talented Brumidi began a series of paintings intended to encircle the room (300 feet) and to carry out the historical theme to which all the rotunda decorations conform. They are chiaroscuro drawings in distemper — that is, expressed merely in light and shade and painted with a glutinous medium upon the plaster. A procession of somewhat conventional figures in strong relief, imitating the alto-relievos which the architect had intended to place here, beginning over the western door and progressing to the right (north) and so on around, marches through the cardinal scenes in American progress. Brumidi had completed less than half of the circle when he died, in 1880. The work was then continued by his Italian assistant, Costagini, but is yet incomplete. The estimated expense of so decorating this frieze was $10,000 — the favorite con- gressional figure for art pieces — and it has often been spent to worse advantage than here. On the Canopy of the Dome is Brumidi's* masterpiece, "The Apotheosis of Washington." Glasses will help one to study it from ♦Constantino Brumidi was born in Rome in 1805, studied art, and became a member of the Academy at thirteen. He painted frescoes in several Roman palaces, and worked in the Vatican for three years under Gregory XVI. The tradition is that he became involved in the European revolution of 1848, and was thrown into prison, whence he was freed, on account of his reputation, by the influence of Pius IX, but was banished from Italy. At any rate, after the French took possession of Rome he came to America, where he remained until 1854, and then went to Mexico to do frescoes. Returning to Washington, he was employed to take charge of the mural decorations of the Capitol. He began with the room of the House Committee on Agriculture, and these pictures are said to have been A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 27 the floor, but it should be examined from the gallery to be appre- ciated. The artist worked upon it several years, and the cost was nearly $50,000, of which Brumidi received $39,500, and an exceedingly skillful and beautifying result was obtained. The central figure is Washington, with Freedom and Victory at his right and left, and around them are female figures to represent the original States of the Union. The border of the canopy contains six groups of emblematic figures, representing the Fall of Tyranny, Agriculture, Mechanics, Commerce, the Marine, and the Arts and Sciences. The painting is glowing with color, and every portion of it is finished in a very careful manner. The ascent of the Dome may be made by a stairway (376 steps) opening from the passage to the Senate wing, and it is possible to climb even to the foot of the statue. Visitors are ordinarily contented, however, to stop at the great galleries, exterior and interior, which encircle the base of the dome. The view thence is an exceedingly wide and interesting one, but differs little from that obtained from the summit of the Washington Monument (p. 93), which can be reached by an elevator; few persons, therefore, climb these tedious stairways. " The huge dome," says Evans, "rising in its classic beauty far above the main building, is a fitting crown to the noble edifice. It is of I cast iron and weighs nearly 4,000 tons. Large sheets of iron, securely j bolted together, rest on iron ribs, and by the plan used in its con- ' struction the changes of temperature make its contraction and expan- I sion merely 'like the folding and unfolding of the lily.' It was I built from designs of Thomas U. Walter of Philadelphia, and cost ^ $1,250,000. Eight years were required in its construction, so care- I fully was the work done, and as it is thoroughly protected from the , weather by thick coats of white paint, renewed yearly, it is likely to last for centuries. Its base consists of a peristyle of thirty-six fluted columns surmounted by an entablature and a balustrade. Then comes an attic story, and above this the dome proper. At the top is a gallery, surrounded by a balustrade, from which may be obtained a magnificent view of the city and its environs. ^ Rising from the i gallery is the 'lantern,' fifteen feet in diameter and fifty feet high, surrounded by a peristyle. Over the lantern is a globe, and standing on the globe is the bronze statue of Liberty, designed by Thomas \ Crawford and cast at Bladensburg, Md. It is nineteen feet six inches high, weighs seven and one-half tons, and cost more than $24,000. the first frescoes in the United States. He also did frescoes for St. Stephen's Church in New York and for the Philadelphia Cathedral. His death, in 1880, fol- lowed an injury received upon the scaffold while painting the frieze of the rotunda. His work is strong in drawing, excellent in idea, and brilliant in color, and is in the style of the best Italian methods. Whenever he represented a stated event or included a portrait he took great pains that it should be truthful. 28 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. It was placed in position December 2, 1863, amid the salutes from guns in Washington and the surrounding forts, and the cheers of the thousands of soldiers." This statue was lifted to its position in sections, afterward bolted together. The original plaster model in the National Museum enables one to study its features in detail. The rotunda has several times been the scene of the lying-in-state of the corpses of great Americans, but never so impressively as when the murdered Lincoln rested here in 1S65. The eastern door of the rotunda opens upon the grand portico of the eastern front. The carvings above it and the other doors have already been described. The western dcor leads to a rear stairway descending a narrow hall to the rear entrance of the Capitol and Pennsylvania Avenue. It also opens around the head of the stairway to the old Congressional Library, now moving into the magnificent new building described on pp. 49 to 55. The old library rooms occupy all the space in the west- era front of the central building, and open upon a balcony which gives an exceedingly interesting view toward the river, the Treasury, and the principal part of the city. The northern door leads to the Supreme Court (p. 45) and beyond that to the Senate Chamber (p. 39). The southern door admits to Statuary Hall and the House of Representatives, in the southern extension, to which attention may now be directed, as the first step in a reneral survey of the Capitol. Statuary Hall. — Passing through the southern door and a circular vestibule, we emerge into a semi-circular hall ninety-five feet in great- est width, whose ceiling is a half-dome sixty feet high, beneath which is a spacious gallery filled with the Library of the House of Rep- resentatives. This was the Hall of Rcprcscntaiives of the orig- inal Capitol, and as first built it was an oblong rectangular room. In rebuilding it, after the fire of 1S14, Latrobe converted it into a semi- circular room, taking as his model, tradition says, an ancient theater in Greece; and doubtless it was an extremely beautiful apartment when fresh in color, lighted at night, and filled with a brilliant assemblage. At the southern end is a grand arch, supported by columns of Potomac variegated marble (breccia), with white Italian capitals copied from relics in the ruins of Athens. Many other similar pillars form a colonnade about the room and sustain the profusely paneled ceiling. The cupola, which admits such poor BROAD AND LOCUST STREETS PHILADELPHIA !ik Absolutely Fireproof ^* AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN PLANS Located in the finest part of the city, and convenient to Rail road Stations and leading theaters. STAFFORD, WHITAKER & KEECH, PROPRIETORS. A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 29 light as the room now gets, was the work of a young ItaHan artist named Bonani, who died soon after, and who took his design from the Roman Pantheon. The arch is adorned with an eagle sculptured from life by Valperti, another Italian of high reputa- tion, while a dignified model for a statue of Liberty, wrought in plaster by Causici in 1S29, stands beneath the arch over the former position of the Speaker's desk. Opposite it, above the entrance door, remains the famous old marble clock. It is a notable object, and was executed in this city by C. Franzoni, an Italian sculptor, who died May 12, 1S19, but the design is said to have been drawn by I Latrobe. The theme is the Flight of Time. The Genius of His- tory is represented as standing gracefully upon the winged chariot of Progress, which is rolling over a globe belted with the signs pf the , Zodiac' History records the incidents of national life as Time ; overtakes them, and the wheel of her swift chariot forms the dial of ! the clock, which is marked with gilded figures. I The House of Representatives used this hall from 1808 until 1814, I and then from 1817 to the end of 1857. " Here," remark the authors ' of " The National Capital," "Clay, Webster, the younger Adams, I Calhoun, Randolph, Cass, Burges, Wise, Forsyth, Corwin, Wright, and many others won reputation for statesmanship, and made the I walls ring with their fiery eloquence. Here were many fierce and j bitter wrangles over vexed questions — turbulent scenes, displays of sectional feeling ; and here also was much legislative action which has gone into history as wise and beneficial. . . The old hall appeared as follows in the latter years of its use by the House : The ^ Speaker's chair and table stood on a rostrum four feet from the floor, I and back of the rostrum were crimson curtains, hanging in folds from ^ the capitals of the ponderous marble columns which supported the I great arch of the hall. The clerk's desk stood below the rostrum, and I between the columns were sofas and tables for the reporters. The ! Representatives were provided with mahogany desks and wide arm- ] chairs, which were arranged in concentric circles. The hall could f accommodate 250 members. A bronzed iron railing with curtains j enclosed the outer row of desks, and this constituted the bar of the House. Beyond the railing was the members' lobby, and above the lobby were galleries seating about 500 persons. One of the galleries ! was reserved for ladies, and in two of its panels were paintings of ; Washington and Lafayette, which now hang in the present hall of the I House. Under the paintings were large copies of the Declaration of \ Independence in frames ornamented with national emblems. The hall was lighted by a chandelier, which hung from the center of the domed ceiling." It was in this hall that ex-President John Quincy Adams, then a Representative for Massachusetts, was prostrated at his desk, on Feb- 30 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. ruary 21, 1848, by paralysis, resulting in his death two days later. A star set in the floor marks the position of his desk. The gallery is now filled with the overflow of the House library from the neighbor- ing upper corridor, and the corners beneath, extending back to the rotunda wall, are occupied by the keeper of the House documents, and by the Committee on Enrolled Bills and its clerks. An inner office behind the latter is that of the clerk of the House, and is the room, then assigned to the Speaker, in which Adams died. The present use of this room as a haU of memorial statuary is due to a suggestion from the present Senator from Vermont, Justin S. Morrill, when he was a Representative, which resulted in an invita- tion by Congress, in 1864, to each State to send marble or bronze statues of two of her most illustrious sons for permanent preservation. As a beginning certain statues and busts owned by the Federal Government were collected here. They include Hubbard's plaster copy of Houdon's statue of Washington, the face of which was modeled from a plaster cast taken by Houdon* himself at Mt. Vernon in i';''5. Here also are Vinnie Ream Hoxie*s much-discussed statue of Lincoln, for which Congress paid $15,000 in 1870, after a long debate, in which vSenator Sumner made an illuminating speech on the application of art to the Capitol; Mrs. Fisher Ames's bust of Lincoln, upon a pedestal of Aberdeen granite (a gift), for which $2,000 was paid; and two marble statues by Stone. f One of these represents Alexander Hamil- ton (1756-1804), is dated 1868, and cost $10,000; and the other the Oregon Senator and Union soldier, Col. Edward D. Baker, who was killed at Ball's Bluff in 1861; for this $10,000 was paid. The statue of Jefferson here has the following history, according to Ben. Perley Poore: "A spirited bronze statue of Jefferson by his admirer, the French sculptor, David d' Angers, was presented to Congress by Lieut. Uriah P. Levy, but Congress declined to accept it, and denied it a position in the Capitol. It was then reverentially taken in charge by two naturalized citizens, stanch Democrats, and placed on a small pedestal in front of the White House. One of these worshipers of Jefferson was the public gardener, Jimmy Maher; the *Jean Antoine Houdon, who was a cultivated French sculptor (1741-182S"), educated in Paris and Rome, was employed by the State of Virginia to make a statue of Washington. He came and studied his subject, resided tor several weeks with the family at Mount Vernon, cast his face, and then made in Italy the original of this statue, now in the capitol at Richmond. It is the most faithful portrait in existence of the Father of his Country. This copy cost $2,000. + Dr. Horatio Stone was born in New England about 18 10; studied and prac- ticed medicine in New York. Later he became a sculptor and resided in Washington, where several statues perpetuate his memory. He spent many ot his latter years in Italy and died there in 1875. (See p. 43.) A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 31 other was John Foy, keeper of the restaurant in the basement of the Capitol and famous for his witty sayings." Here also will be found marble busts of Kosciusko, the Hungarian patriot, by H. D. Saunders, $500; of Pulaski, the Polish soldier of the Revolution, by H. Dmo- chowski; of Thom.^s Crawford, the sculptor (p. 22); of Senator J. J. Crittenden of Kentucky, author of the "Crittenden Compromise' measure and Harrison's Attorney-General, by Joel T. Hart; and a portrait of Joshua R. Giddings by Miss C. L. Ransom, costing $1,000. A few States have sent the effigies called for, and they stand in the dim light as if petrified with surprise at the miscellaneous company of greatness in which they find themselves, and the tedium of wait- ing to be let out. Some are of high merit, but many are not, and none can be fairly estimated or enjoyed when set up in this gloomy and echoing hall, like a lot of gravestones exposed for sale in a dealer's warerooms. Following is a catalogue of these State statues: Rhode Island: Gen. Nathaniel Greene (i 742-1 786; see p. 57) by (H. K. Brown, * 1869; and Roger Williams (1606-1683) by Franklin (Simmons, f 1870. I Connect I'cttt: Gov. Jonathan Trumbull (the original " Brother 'Jonathan," 1 710-1785) and Roger Sherman, one of the Signers (1721- 11793). both the work of C. B. Ives, and placed here in 1872. I New York: Vice-President George Clinton (1739-1812) by H. K. Brown, and cast by Wood in Philadelphia in 1873; Chancellor Robert (Livingston (1747-1813) by E. D. Palmer, X cast by Barbedienne in I Paris in 1874; and Gen. James Shields, by Leonard W. Volk. All these are of bronze. * Henry Kirke Brown was born in Massachusetts in 18 14. He studied paint- ling in Boston, went to Albany, N Y., and then to Italy. He returned in 1846 and i settled in Brooklyn, N. Y. He modeled the equestrian statue of Washington jnow in Union Square, New York, the Scott Statue in Washington (p 124), and many portrait-statues. He was the chairman of an Art Commission, appointed I by Congress in 1859, to advise it as to the rules of taste that should govern the j decoration of the Capitol; its report is printed in House Executive Documents, 36th Congress, ist Session, Vol VI, No. 43, March 9, i860. Mr. Brown died in 1886. + Franklin Simmons was born in Maine in 1841, and was attracted toward art 'from boyhood. During the war he spent his time in sketching and modeling the Union leaders, and made highly satisfactory busts of Lincoln, Seward, Chase, i Grant, Sheridan, Meade, and many others. The commission for this statue I enabled him to open a studio in Rome, where he has since resided and has pro- Iduced many other notable works, including several in this city. $ Erastus Dow Palmer was born in Onondaga County, N. Y., in 1817, was a Icarpenter, then a cameo-cutter, but did not attempt sculpture until 1835, when he •met with instant success. His works are nuinerous, including the well-known I "Angel of the Resurrection" at the entrance to Rural Cemetery in Albany, jN. Y. He resides in Europe. i 32 HANDY GUIDE TO WASH I KG TON. Massachusetts: Gov. John Winthrop (15 88-1 649) by Richard S. Greenough (a brother of Horatio Greenough, p. 18), 1876; and Samuel Adams (i 722-1 803) by Anne Whitney, * 1876. Vermo7it: Col. Ethan Allen (1737-1789), a colossal marble figure, date 1875, by Larkin G. Mead of that State; and Senator Jacob Col- lamer (i 791-1865). Maine: Gov. William King (i 768-1852) by F. Simmons, 1877. Pe7i7isylvania: Robert Fulton (1765-1815), who was born in this State, but made his career elsewhere, by Helen Blanche Nevin, 1883; and Gen. John P. G. Muhlenberg (i 746-1 807), the soldier-preacher of the Revolution. Ohio: President James A. Garfield (1831-1881) and Senator and Governor William Allen. Both are by Charles E. Niehaus of New York, who is also a large contributor to the statuary in the new Library of Congress. New Jersey: Richard Stockton (1730-1781), one of the Signers, in marble; and Gen. Philip Kearney (1815-1862) in bronze. Both are from models by H. K. Brown. Michiga?i: Lewis Cass (i 782-1866), Senator and Secretary of State, by Daniel Chester French — dated 1887, the sculptor of many portrait-statues, and of the colossal " Statue of the Republic" for the Columbian Exhibition. Statuary Hall has surprising acoustic properties, which the Capi- tol guides have learned, and apply to the amusement of sightseers and their own profit. Curious echoes, whispers distinct at a dis- tance, and ability to hear what is inaudible to a person at your elbow, are among the curiosities of sound observable at certain points. The Capitol guides, it may be remarked, include some very well-informed men, who can make themselves of great use to a stranger in this immense and storied building; and it is the only place in the city where a professional guide is of any use whatever. The Capitol guides are permitted to charge fifty cents an hour, but are often cheerfully paid much more. The House of Representatives.— Leaving Statuary Hall by the door under the arch, you quit the limits of the old Capitol, and traverse the corridor to the southern or House wing. The principal doors of the House confront you as you reach the lobby, each guarded, if Congress is in session, by doorkeepers, whose business it is to see that none enter who have not "the rights of the floor." *Anne Whitney was born in Watertown, Mass., in 1821, and has done much of high merit in poetry and sculpture, notably in the latter class her statue of Harriet Martineau at Wellesley College and the fountain of Leif Eriksen in Bos- ton, the model for the statue of which is now in the National Museum. A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 33 T/w Hall of Representatives {oq.q,\x^\qA since December i6, 1857) is an oblyng room 139 feet long by 93 wide and 36 high, the "floor" being 115 by 67 feet. The ceiling is a framework of iron, bronzed and gilded, inlaid with glass, upon which the coats-of-arms of the States are painted, mellowing rather than obscuring the abundant light. The Speaker's raised desk is against the southern wall, and below him are the marble desks of the clerks and official reporters, the latter keeping a stenographic record of everything done or said, to be published in The Co?tgressi07ial Record next morning. The assistant doorkeeper sits at the Speaker's left, and the sergeant-at- 1 arms within easy call. This latter officer is the Speaker's policeman — the representative of the physical force which backs up the civil rule ; and his symbol of authority is the mace, which reposes on a marble pedestal at the right of the Speaker. "The mace w^as adopted by the House in the First Congress, and has been in use ever since. When it is placed on its pedestal, it ' signifies that the House is in session and under the Speaker's I authority; when it is placed on the floor, that the House is in com- ! mittee of the whole. The mace is a bundle of black rods fastened ' with transverse bands of silver, like the ^om.a.n fasces. On its top ' is a silver globe surmounted by a silver eagle. When the sergeant- at-arms is executing the commands of the Speaker, he is required to ' bear aloft the mace in his hands." I Grouped in concentric semicircles are the desks of the Representa- I tives, all small, uniform, and handsome, those of the Republican party on the Speaker's left and those of the Democratic party on the I right. When a division of the House takes place, all come down the side aisles into the space in front of the clerk's desk, and pass out up the central aisle between counting-tellers. Over the Speaker's head is the press gallery, and doors lead to the lobby and retiring rooms jin the rear. Beneath the galleries, in rear of the Representatives' I desks, are "cloak-rooms" — small apartments where the Members not i only hang up their hats and overcoats, but smoke and talk beyond the hubbub of the House. Twelve hundred spectators may be j crowded into the galleries. I The Hall of Representatives is a business-like room — elegant but I not over-ornamented. It is carpeted and draped in warm colors, but jthe prevailing tone of the decoration is white and gold. At the right of the chair hangs a full-length portrait of Washington as President, by Van der Lyn (p. 25), ordered by Congress in 1832, to signalize the hundredth anniversary of Washington's birth, and delivered in 34 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. 1S34, at the price of $2,500. On the left is Ary Scheffer's* portrait of Lafayette, painted in 1822, and presented to Congress by that artist in 1824. The panel at the right of the "Washington" is taken by Bierstadt'sf painting of the "King's River Canon," while occupying the corresponding panel on the west, adjoining the Lafayette, is the "Discovery of the Hudson"*by the same artist, who was paid $10,000 for each. Adjoining the last named is a fresco by Brumidi, repre- senting Washington treating with Cornwallis for the surrender of his army at Yorktown — a gift to Congress from this painter. Corridors surround the House, paved with Minton tiles, wain- scoted with marble, and having decorated ceilings and other adorn- ments. Turning to the right (west) at the entrance (p. 32), you find, just beyond the corner, the Western Grand Staircase, leading to the attic story or gallery floor. This staircase is double, with massive balustrades of polished Tennessee marble, and is lighted from the roof through stained glass. At the foot is a bronze bust of a Chippewa Chief, Bee-she-kee or The Buffalo, modeled from life in 1855 by Vincenti. The opposite wall is largely covered by the fresco by Leutze,:}: representing, in a somewhat stiff, conventional, and poor manner, western emigration under the title " Westward, Ho !" The action in the figures is the best part of the composition, for which the enormous price of $20,000 was paid. Strips of wall beside the picture are highly decorated. That on the right contains a portrait of Daniel Boone, as a typical explorer, and the motto : " The spirit grows with its allotted spaces ; the mind is narrowed in a narrow sphere." That on the left has a portrait of Col. William Clark, to whose energetic action the LTnited States mainly owes its early possession of the Ohio Valley, with a familiar misquotation from Jonathan M. Sewall, which should read : * Ary Scheffer (1795-1858) sprang from an artistic German family. He was educated at Paris and soon became well known as a painter of emotional genre pictures. He never became a great artist, but was widely known and popular on account of his high intelligence and amiable characteristics. He was closely associated with Louis Phillipe, and died in 1858. f Albert Bierstadt was born in Germany in 1829, but came to America when an infant. He had an opportunity of going to the Rocky Mountains about 1858, after which he went to Paris for art study. Returning, he traveled repeatedly to the far We.st, and his always conspicuous paintings of Rocky Mountain scenery were very popular. He lived at Irvington, on the Hudson, until his death in 1890. % Emanuel Leutze was of German birth (1816), but passed his youth in Phila- delphia. He studied art in Europe, especially at Diisseldorf, and devoted him- self to historical subjects, which he treated with vigor. His leading painting is that of Washington crossing the Delaware. This and several other Revolution- ary pictures have been engraved and are widely known. He died in Washingv ton in 1868, A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 35 No pent-up Utica contracts your powei^s, But the whole boundless continent is yours. , Beneath Leutze's fresco is a similarly treated sketch by Bierstadt, of the Golden Gate, or entrance to the Bay of San Francisco, Cali- fornia. The rooms beyond the staircase are offices of the clerks of the House, and the fourth (in the corner) is the Speaker's room. An elevator is near here. Turning down the corridor, across the southern end of the wing and in rear of the hall, the handsome retiring-rooms of the Repre- ' sentatives are passed; and at- the end, opposite the basement stairs, I is the House lobby. This basement stairzvay is one of the four beautiful, bronze-railed, 1 private stairs leading down to committee rooms, etc., on the floor 1 below, which are found at opposite corners of the halls of both the I Senate and the House. Their balustrades are exquisite works of art ( in metal, were cast in Philadelphia after designs by Bandia, and cost j something over $500 each. It is worth an effort to see them. The House Lobby is richly furnished, and contains many por- ( traits — most of which are inferior crayon -drawings — of the Speakers of the past, who find themselves in a sort of legal obscurity delight- fully suitable to the mysterious bargains and vague ' ' understandings " associated with this apartment, where Congressmen confer with those whom they choose to admit. This and the adjoining apartments are not open to public inspection after noon when Congress is in session. Passing another bronze-railed stairway and turning to the left, three committee-rooms of great interest are passed on the eastern front of this wing. In the corner is that of the Committee on Ajjpro- priations ; next comes that on Ways and Means, which is richly frescoed ; and in the further (northeastern) corner is that of Mi'/itary \ Affah's, hung with a notable collection of paintings of the principal forts of the United States, gathered by Lieutenant-Colonel Eastman, U. S. A. From this corridor the Eastern Grand Staircase, similar to the western, ascends to the gallery floor. At its foot is Powers' " * Hiram Powers, born in Vermont in 1805, died in Italy, 1873, was a sculptor who developed great powers out of self-taught beginnings. In 1835 he came to Washington, and modeled busts of distinguished statesmen until he was able to go to Italy, where he studied and made his home in Florence. He modeled fine .statues of Washington for Louisiana, Calhoun for South Carolina, and Webster for Massachusetts. His "Eve" excited the admiration of Thorwaldsen and other artists abroad, and his exquisite " Greek Slave " gave him a national reputation. 36 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. statue of Thomas J ciff'cr son, which cost $10,000, but is difficult to see. Over the landing hangs Frank B. Carpenter's painting of the " Sign- ing of the Proclamation of Emancipation," by President Lincoln, in the presence of his cabinet, September 22, 1862, presented to Con- gress in 1878 by Mrs. Elizabeth Thompson. Mr. Carpenter was for a considerable time an inmate of Lincoln's family at the White House, and has written many interesting reminiscences of that time. Ascending to the attic floor we may again make the circuit of this wing through corridors whose inner doors open into the galleries of the House. At the top of the staircase hangs a full-length por- trait of Henry Clay, painted- by Neagle* in 1843. It is flanked on one side by a portrait of Charles Carroll of Carroll ton, the last sur- vivor of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, painted by Chester Harding, a contemporary and rival of Gilbert Stuart, and on the other side by a portrait of Gunning Bedford, a member of the Continental Congress from Delaware, painted by Gilbert Stuartf and presented by his family. Turning the corner toward the left we walk along the corridor in rear of the House galleries, the distribution of which is indicated by labels over the doors. The most conspicuous compartment is that devoted to the press, which has a broad space over the Speaker's head and facing the House; it is fltted with desks, and governed by strin- gent rules made by a committee of correspondents. More than half of the gallery, with seats for some 500 persons, is open to the public, which may come and go at will; portions of this are nominally reserved for ladies; but gentlemen with them may also enter. A private room for ladies, with a woman attendant, will be found in the south front. Certain rooms on this floor are devoted to House committees and other official purposes, and the second story of the corridor connecting this gallery with that of Statuary Hall is filled * John Neagle ( 1 797-1865) was a Boston man who began to paint landscapes about 1818, and later turned to portraiture, painting, among others, a portrait of Gilbert Stuart, now in Boston. He married a daughter of Thomas Sully, an eminent portrait painter of his time (p. 45), and lived in Philadelphia. His most notable portraits are this of Clay and one of Henry C. Carey. + Gilbert Charles Stuart was born in Rhode Island in 1754 and died in Boslim in 1828. He was taken to Edinburgh when eighteen years of age by a Scotch artist named Alexander, but soon returned and painted at Newport, Boston, and New York. When the War for Independence broke out he went to London, received instruction from Benjamin West, and rose to eminence. In Paris he painted a portrait of Louis XIV. He returned to America in 179^ and painted, from life, a portrait of Washington [of which he afterward made some thirty copies], and many worthies of the Revolutionary period. He is regarded as one of the best portrait painters America has ever produced.—^./. Lossing. A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 87 with the House's file of public documents, bound uniformly in sheep- skin, and now numbering nearly 150,000 volumes. The early records of Congress are very valuable. The only picture here is that of Chief Justice Marshall, which hangs opposite the head of the western staircase, and is an excellent full-length painted by R. N. Brooke in 18S0. The basement of the House, to which an elevator makes a con- venient descent, contains the House post office (southeast corner); committee and clerks' rooms, of which several are elaborately fres- coed ; a public restaurant (at the foot of the eastern staircase); elaborate bath-rooms for Representatives, and public lavatories for men (at the foot of the western stairway). The room of the Committee on Agriculture was decorated by Brumidi, as his introductory work, with what some critics have pro- nounced the best frescoes in the building. They represent Cincin- natus called from his fields to be dictator, and Putnam going from his plow to be a general in the Continental army. There are also sketches contrasting harvests in ancient and modern times, and medal- lions of Washington and Jefferson. Figures of Flora (spring), Ceres (summer), Bacchus (autumn), and Boreas (winter) accent the decora- tion of the ceiling. The Committee on Indian Affairs has the bene- fit of wall paintings of Indian scenes executed by Lieutenant-Colonel Eastman, U. S. A., whose collection of pictures of forts, largely painted by himself, is preserved in the room of the House Committee on Military Affairs (p. 35). The sub-basement beneath this part of the building contains the elaborate machinery for heating and ventilating the Hall of Repre- sentatives and this wing generally. Fresh air is drawn in from a remote part of the grounds (p. 18), and its temperature, degree of dryness, etc., are regulated by ingenious machinery, which is open to inspection by visitors who wish to descend to the engine-room. A similar apparatus is in the Senate sub-basement for the service of the north wing. The central part of the sub-basement is a labyrinth of dark archways used for storage when used at all. A basement corridor extends from end to end of the Capitol on this ground floor, and furnishes a convenient means of reaching the Senate wing without retracing one's steps. The w^hite marble pillars will at once attract the eye. The connoisseur will remark that though of Corinthian mold, their floriated capitals represent leaves of American plants. This was a pretty notion of Benj. H. Latrobe, and a still finer example exists in the Senate vestibule (p. 41). Half- B8 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. way down this corridor through the basement (which really is the ground floor, numerous doors opening directly upon the plaza and terrace), we come to the Crypt, an apartment formed of the spaces between the forty Doric columns that support the massive brick arches upon which is laid the floor of the rotunda; a star in the pavement marks the center of the building immediately beneath the dome. A large part of the crypt has been walled off for storage (?f library books. A passage to the left leads out to the western entrance and up-stairs into the rotunda; and another leads to the basement doors under the grand portico of the eastern front. The Uitdet^croft is the name applied to the vault beneath the crypt, intended by the founders of the Republic as the mausoleum of Washington and his family; but these good people preferred to be buried at Mt. Vernon, and the " undercroft" remains empty. Passing onward, a few steps take one past the light-shaft to the door (on the right) of the old Supreme Court Chamber, immediately under the present chamber. It was in this room, now filled with the exceedingly ftiU and valuable law library of the court, that all the great cases were heard i^revious to 1857. A few steps farther carry one out of the old main building and into the Basement of the Senate Wing. Here there is a public restau- rant, public lavatories for both men and women, and many offices and committee rooms. All the corridors and vestibules at this end are well lighted, and the walls and ceilings are very profusely and elaborately decorated with mural designs in the Italian manner, daintily drawn and brightly colored. Among them are many por- traits. The vestibule of the Senate post office, in the northwest corner, is particularly picturesque, having over the post-office door a large painting of Fulton, pointing, as if from a balcony, to his first steamboat, the Claremont, passing the Palisades of the Hudson. The door of the Committee on Post-Office Affairs is sviitably indicated by a sprightly picture of Franklin, who organized the American post office; while over the opposite d(K)r is a likeness of Fitch, Fulton's competitor in developing the idea of steam navigation. Other especially fine freseoes are to be seen in the room of the Senate committees on Indian Affairs, Naval Affairs, Military Affairs (where Revolutionary battles are pictured in glorious colors), and Foreign Affairs; the doors of the latier and of the Committee on Patents are further distinguished by frescoes by Brumidi above the lintels — in the former case " The Signing of the Treaty of Cheiil,' THE SHERIDAN GATE AT ARLINGTON. A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 89 and in the latter a full-length picture of Robert Fulton. The ren- dering over and over in painting and carving of the same subjects and faces is one of the peculiarities of the unsystematic and ununi- form embellishment of the Capitol. A stairway or an elevator at either the eastern or western end of the main corridor will take one up to the main story of the Senate wing. Here, as in the southern wing, corridors extend completely around the Senate Chamber, which occupies the center of this wing. The Senate Chamber is 113 feet long, 80 feet wide, and 36 feet high, including the galleries, which extend all around and will accommodate about 1,000 persons. The space under the galleries on the east, west, and south sides is partitioned into cloak rooms for the Senators, while on the north side is the Senate lobby. The area of the floor is diminished by these rooms to 84 feet long by 51 wide. The flat ceiling of iron girders inclosing broad panels of glass, painted with emblems of the Union, Progress, the Army, the Navy, the Mechanic Arts, etc., admits a soft light day and night. The marble walls are paneled by pilasters in couples, and the doors are of choice mahogany. The carpet is usually green, setting off well the rich old mahogany desks of quaint pattern, which, with the chairs, are now uniform, and the profuse gilding about the walls and ceiling. Each desk bears a silver plate with the occupant's name. A Senator keeps a desk only during a single Congress, drawnng lots at the be- ginning of the next for a choice of seats — the Republicans sitting at the left, and the Democrats at the right of the presiding officer. Some desks are old and historic, being the same at which Senators distinguished in the early history of the Republic sat and wrote and delivered their forensic thunders. In the Fifty-fourth Congress, for example, that occupied by Mr. Allison was the desk at which Han- nibal Hamlin, of Maine, sat. Senator Cockrell occupied the desk iised by Jefferson Davis, and Mr. Walthall that once occupied by Oliver P. Morton of Indiana. The desk at which Mr. Roach sat, on the back row of the Democratic side, was that of Mr. Edmunds. Senator Teller had that of " Zach " Chandler, and Senator Hoar .sat behind the same desk at which Sumner sat. The desk occupied by Mr. Blaine is now used by Senator Hale, and is in the same spot. The old seat of Mr. Conkling is now used by Senator Murphy, of New York, and Sen ""tor Lodge sits behind the desk where Henry Wilson sat. The President of the Senate is the Vice-President of the United States. He sits upon a platform within an arched niche and behind a broad desk. At his right is the sergeant-at-arms, and at his left the assistant doorkeeper. In front of him, a step lower down, is the desk of the Senate clerks, and in front of that, on the floor of 40 HANDY GUIDE TO WASIIINGTOX. the arena, the tables of the official reporters. The press gallery is behind the President, and facing him are the galleries reserved for the Diplomatic Corps, and for Senators' families. The end galleries are open to the public, the eastern one being set apart for women, who will find a convenient parlor and retiring-room, with a female attendant, at its northern extremit}-. Busts of all the Vtce-Presnlents are being i3laced in niches in the walls, a recent embellishment, of which the following is a roster, with the names of the sculptors : John Adams (Daniel C. French), Thomas Jefferson (M. Ezekiel), Aaron Burr (Jacques Joavenal), George Clinton (Victor A. Crane), Elbridge Gerry (Herbert Adams), Daniel Tompkins (C. H. Niehaus), Martin Van Buren (U. S. J. Dunbar), George M. Dallas (H. J. Elli- cott), Hannibal Hamlin (Franklin Simmons), Henry Wilson (Dan. C. French), W. A. Wheeler (Edwin Potter), Chester A. Arthur (Aug. St. Gaudens), Thomas A. Hendricks (U. S. J. Dunbar), Levi P. Mor- ton (F. Edwin Elwell), Adlai E. Stevenson (Franklin Simmons). Busts of Calhoun and R. M. Johnson are not yet read}-. Outside the Sejtate Chamber many interesting things are to be seen on the main floor. Turning to the right from the main or rotunda entrance to the wing (and to the floor of the chamber), you find on the end wall a famous portrait of Washington by Gilbert Stuart (p. 36), which was bought by Congress in 1876, from ex-Senator Chestnut of South Carolina, for $1 ,200. Opposite it is a bright portrait of John Adams, copied by Andrews from Gilbert Stuart. Passing through the door between these portraits, and turning to the left, you come to the magnificent eastern staircase of Tennessee marble, illuminated b}' a rich skylight of stained glass. At its foot stands Powers' marble statue of Benjamin Franklin, which cost $10,000. The wall of the stair-landing bears Powell's (p. 36) striking paint- ing (an enlarged copy, for which $25,000 was paid by contract in 1873, of an earlier picture, 1S63, made by Powell for the State of Ohio) of Com. Oliver P. Perry at the battle of Lake Erie, in iSio, trans- ferring himself and his flag from his sinking flagship " Lawrence " to the " Niagara," in which he won a signal victor}-. This transfer was made under fire. Perry's younger brother, Matthew (who afterward opened Japan to the world), was then a mid- shipman, and is depicted here as entreating his brother and comman- der not to expose himself so recklessly. The faces of the sailors were drawn from once well-known emplo3'-es about the Capitol. Just beyond the staircase is a noble vestibule, with coupled col- A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 41 umns, having Corinthian capitals, designed by Latrobe, though usually credited to Jefferson, and composed of a most graceful arrangement of Indian corn and tobacco leaves in place of the conventional acanthus. They are of white marble, but the walls are of scagi- iola. This vestibule opens upon the eastern -portico through the Senate Bronze Doors designed by Thomas Crawford, cast by J. T. Ames at Chicopee, Mass., and set up here in 1868. This work of art is equally interesting, and the workmanship as fine in every respect as the main door. The upper panel of each valve (one of which represents War and the other Peace, as typified in the figures in the foot- panel of each half) contains a star surrounded ' by oak leaves, and acts as a ventilator. There are six panels, con- ! stituting the body of the door, in which are represented, in alto- 7'elievo, events connected with the Revolution, the foundation of our Government, and the erection of the Capitol, chronologically as fol- ' lows: The battles of Bunker Hill, Monmouth, and Yorktown ; the ' welcome of Washington in Trenton on his way to New York in 1789 : (the same panel contains portraits of the sculptor, his wife, three ' children, and of Rogers, the sculptor of the main door); the inaugura- ' tion of Washington in 1789, and the laying the corner-stone of the I Capitol, September 18, 1793. The prominent figures are all like- I nesses. In the inauguration scene John Adams stands on Washing- j ton's right; Chancellor Livingston administers the oath, and Mr. ! Otis holds the Bible. The remaining figures are Alexander Ham- I ilton, Generals Knox and St. Clair, Roger Sherman, and Baron i Steuben. The frame over the door is supported by enriched brack- I ets. The ornamentation is scroll-work and acanthus, with the cotton (boll, stalks and ears of earn, grapes, and entwining vines. Above ] the door are two sculptured figures in American marble representing (Justice and -History by Crawford, whose price was $3,000. It \viil I be remembered, also, that Crawford designed the figures that fill the pediment of this portico (p. 22). This bronze door was his latest work; he was paid $6,000 for the designs, and Wm. H. Rinehart was given $8,940 for the plaster model, while the casting (14,000 pounds) cost $50,500. Returning into the vestibule, it is well to turn aside through the first door, at the right, and see Brumidi's excellent frescoes in the room \oi\\iQ Senate Committee on the District of Columbia. This was (originally assigned to be the Senate post office, whence the artist's I choice of History, Geography, Physics, and the Telegraph, as sub- I jects for his brush. The figures in each design are large and strik- iingly drawn, and the decorative accessories are most pleasing. This vestibule opens at its inner end on the right into the Senate reception room, an apartment sixty feet long, but divided by an arch where Senators receive callers — especially ladies — upon business. It 42 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. is gaudily ornate. The floor is of Minton tiles, and the walls are covered with rococo designs in stucco, in high relief, and heavily gilded. The vaulted ceiling has also many gilded stucco ornaments, and certain panels are embellished with allegorical frescoes by Brumidi, entitled "Liberty," "Plenty," "Peace," "War," "Prudence," "Justice," "Temperance," and "Strength"; while an excellently- drawn and brilliantly-colored mural painting, under the arch on the south wall, depicts Washington in conference wnth Jefferson and Hamilton — one of the best things in the Capitol. This room opens eastwardly into the office of the sergeant-at-arms, where a very large ceiling painting is visible, and westwardly it opens into the lobby. In the Senate Lobby, entering from the public reception room, as above noted, the first door at the right opens into the Vice-Presi- dent's Room, where Henry Wilson died, November 22, 1875, and whose bust by Daniel C. French remains here as a memento. The next door admits to the Marble Room — a large senatorial reception or withdrawing room, popularly so-called because every part of its interior is formed of variegated and sculptured marbles, all from East Tennessee except the white Italian capitals and ceil- ings. Here the " grave and reverend " Senators hold consultations at ease, or receive their more privileged guests. Luxurious chairs, soft sofas, warm rugs, and lace curtains abound, and the room is dazzling at night when all the lights are aglow. Next west of this splendid saloon is the President's Room, another ornate apartment where it has been the custom, since Andrew Johnson's time (except in Cleveland's case), for Presidents to sit during the last day of a congressional session, in order to be ready to sign bills requiring an immediate signature. This room is brilliantly decorated, including medallion portraits of President Washington and prominent members of his first cabinet — Thomas Jefferson, Secretary of State; Henry Knox, Secretary of War; Alex- ander Hamilton, Secretary of the Treasury; Edmund Randolph, Attorney-General, and Samuel Osgood, Postmaster-General. The four corner-frescoes overhead represent Columbus (Discovery), Ves- pucius (Exploration), Franklin (History), and William Brewster (Religion). Between these are symbolic figures of Liberty, Legisla- tion, Religion, and Executive Power. All this work is by the versa- tile Brumidi, and in his best vein. The tiling of this and of the adjoining rooms is covered in winter by rich carpeting. THE SENATORIAL RECEPTION OR "MARBLE ROOM. A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 43 This lobby and the three rooms last named are not visible during sessions of Congress, except by the courtesy of some Senator. The rooms opening from the corridor west of the vSenate Cham- ber belong to the clerks and certain committees, and call for no special remark. The visitor may therefore pass on at once to the western grand staircase of white American marble and ascend to the gallery floor. Dr. Horatio Stone's (p. 30) statue of John Hancock stands at the foot of this staircase. It was sculptured in 1861, and bought for 15,500. On the wall of the landing is the large painting, by Walker,* of the " Storming of Chepultepec" (captured by Scott's army on Sep- tember 13, 1847, during the Mexican War), for which $6,000 was paid. Roose says that it was "originally painted for a panel in tUe Com- mittee-room of Military Affairs of the House, and doubtless will eventually be placed there." At the head of the stairway hangs a full-length portrait of Washington, by Wilson Peale, f painted in 1779, the first sittings for which were given at Valley Forge. This west corridor admits one to the gentlemen's and to one of the reserved galleries of the Senate, and to numerous committee rooms. The rooms in the northern front of the wing, behind the press gallery, are not public. « Turning to the right from the elevator, or from the head of the stairs, let us walk around through the south corridor, whose doors admit to the Senate galleries, to the head of the eastern grand stair- way (p. 40), where the beautiful and faithful painting of the ''Recall of Columbtts " merits close attention. The artist was Aug. G. Heaton, who was paid $3,000 for this picture, painted in 1882. Immediately * James "Walker was an Englishman, born in 1819, who was early brought to New York, where he studied art, and later went to California, where he lived and painted until his death in 1889. His works were mostly pictures of military scenes, of which the best known, besides this example, were the " Battle of Lookout Mountain," painted for General Hooker, and widely exhibited, and "The Repulse of Longstreet at Gettysburg." + Charles Wilson Peale was a Philadelphian (1741-1827) who possessed a remaikable aptitude for all sorts of ingenious employments, having, for instance, been the first American dentist to make artificial teeth, and having a wide renown as a taxidermist, student, and lecturer upon natural historj-. He was the organizer of Peaie's famous old museum in Philadelphia, and was of great assistance to both Wilson and Audubon, the naturalists. When he turned his attention to portrait painting he was instructed lirst by Copley, in Boston, and afterward in London at the Royal Academy. In 1772, according to Lossing, he painted the first portrait of Washington ever executed, in the costume of a Virginia colonel; and, at the same time, he painted a miniature of Mrs. Wash- ington. He did military service and carried on portrait painting during the War for Independence, and for fifteen years he was the only portrait painter in America. Mr. Peale painted several portraits of Washington, among them one for Houdon's use in making his statue of the patriot (p. 30). 44 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. beyond the stairway are two of the most interesting rooms ni the biiilding, a hall looking out upon the plaza, and another, adjoining, having a delightful prospect northward. These rooms not only con- tain fine tiling and mural decorations, but some notable paintings. In the former are Moran's * celebrated pictures of the canons of the Colorado and of the Yellowstone, which were painted from actual studies, and sold to the Government for |io,ooo each. Those familiar with these marvelous regions of the country, know that the coloring is by no means too vivid, and that the drawing is highly expressive. Other art objects also adorn this room, whose tiled floor and stucco ornaments are worth notice. A marble bust of an Indian will repay careful study. There are also busts of Garibaldi — a very spirited sketch by his countryman, Martegana; and of Charles Sumner, by More. The portraits are of Henry Clay, by H. F. Darby; of Webster; and of John C. Calhoun. This room opens into the gallery for Senators' families, the first and second seats of which are reserved for the President and Vice-President, and their friends. The adjoining hall (from which opens a ladies' retiring-room, with a woman attendant) has two historical paintings. One of these, representing the encounter between the Monitor and Merrimac, painted by Hallsall, f and purchased in 1887, for $15,000, is the only exception to the rule that no reminder of the Civil War shall be placed in the Capitol, an exception due to the fact that this was in reality a drawn battle, where the courage of the contestants was con- spicuously equal, and where the naval methods of the world were revolutionized. Its historical interest is therefore world-wide. The other painting is the crowded canvas by Cornelia Adela Fassett (cost $7,500), representing the Electoral Tribunal of 1877, which sat in the Supreme Court Chamber, and the result of which was the choice of Rutherford B. Hayes for President over Samuel J. Tilden, who had contested Mr. Hayes' election. All of the faces in the room * Thomas Moran was born in England in 1837, but came to the United States when seven years old, and still lives in New York. He went to the Yellowstone Park in 1871, in company with Dr. F. V. Hayden, United States geologist, and later to Colorado and Utah, where he studied carefully, and has made many remarkable paintings of Western scenery among other productions. t William F. Hallsall was born in England in 1844, but settled early in Bos- ton, and after receiving a good education, went to sea for seven yeai's. He next studied frescoing, but gave it up in 1861 to serve two years in the Union navy. He then became a marine painter, studied diligently and produced many stir- ring naval pictures. He is still a resident of Boston. A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 45 are portraits, many of persons still living or recently dead, whose countenances are familiar to the public. On each side of this painting are portraits of Lincoln and Garfield, in Italian mosaic, the gift of Signor Salviati of Venice, Italy. A portrait of Charles Sumner, by W. Ingalls, dated 1870, and of Gen. John A. Dix, by Imogene Robinson Morrell, dated 1883, also hang here. It was John A. Dix, afterward a Major-General, Senator, and Governor of New York, who, when Secretary of the Treasury in 1861, sent to one of his special agents in Louisiana the famous order con- taining the words: " If any one attempts to haul down the American \ flag shoot him on the spot," which so thrilled patriotic hearts. Descending, now, by the elevator or the eastern grand stairway, ^ to the main floor, one walks to the main corridor, where, upon the ! wall at the western end, hang beautiful portraits of Thomas Jeffer- son, a copy from an original by Thomas Sully, and of Patrick \ Henry, a copy by Matthews, from an original by Sully, an eminent painter of portraits and historical pictures, who died in Boston in I 1872. The portraits on the eastern wall have already been described ] (P- 40). j The survey of the Senate wing has now been finished, and the I Supreme Court Chamber is next to be inspected. This is reached by j the main passage-w^ay leading from the Senate to the rotunda. / Here, as soon as the older part of the building is entered, one comes I to the door of the Supreme Court, guarded by an attendant who will * admit visitors upon all proper occasions. Beginning with the resort of the populace in the rotunda, the ■ visitor has now inspected in succession the halls of the lower and I upper house of Congress, and now concludes with the tribunal which I passes upon the validity of the laws they pass. To sit at the rear of ; this old hall when the court is in session, as happens five days in I the week, during the greater part of the year, is an impressive ex- j perience. Any one may enter. I The Supreme Court of the United States now occupies the 'chamber in the old Capitol designed for the Senate, and occupied by that body from 1800 until the completion of the new wing in 1859. Previously it sat in the hall, prepared for it, beneath this one (p. 38). This chamber was designed by Latrobe, and its general resem- blance to the old Hall of Representatives (Statuary Hall) will be noted; but it is smaller, measuring 75 by 45 feet wide and 45 feet high to the zenith of the low half -dome. Beneath the wide arch of 5 46 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. the rear wall is a row of columns of variegated gray Potomac marble, with white Ionic capitals, in the center of which was placed the chair of the President of the Senate, draped, as now, by crimson curtains and surmounted by a hovering eagle. On the dais below him were the desks of the clerks, where now stands the long "bench" of the most august court in 'the land. At the right of the "bench" is the clerk of the court, at the left the Marshal; and the tables of the Attorney-General, official reporters, stenographers, and counsel legally admitted to practice here, occupy the semicircular carpeted "bar" formerly covered by the desks of vSenators. In the rear are public seats; but the light iron galleries formerly built overhead have been removed, and the walls, with their marble pilasters and busts of past Chief Justices, are now wholly visible. The list of busts in order is as follows: At the right of the clock (as you face it) (i) John Jay (1789 to 1795). (2) Oliver Ellsworth (1796 to 1799). (3) Roger B. Taney (1835 to 1864). (4) Morrison R. Waite (1874 to 1888). On the left of the clock: (i) John Rutledge (an Associate Justice nominated in 1795, but never confirmed). (2) John Marshall (iSoi to 1835). (3) Salmon P. Chase (1865 to 1873). The Justices, who, upon court days, enter in procession precisely at noon, wearing the voluminous black silk gowns which alone remain in the United States of the tra- ditional costume of the English judiciary, sit in a prescribed order of seniority. In the center is the Chief Justice; upon his right hand is the Associate Justice longest in service, and beyond him the second, third, and fourth; and then, upon the left of the Chief Justice, the fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth, or youngest in rank of appointment. The court is at present composed as follows, in order of seniority: The Chief Justice, Melville W. Fuller, appointed in 188S; Associate Justices, Stephen J. Field, 1863; John M. Harlan, 1877; Horace Gray, 1881; David J. Brewer, 1889; Henry B. Brown, 1891; George Shiras, Jr., 1892; Edward D. White, 1894; and Rufus Peckham, 1895. The Robing Room, where the Justices meet informally and don "leir robes, is a handsome parlor, with much antique furniture, west of the corridor, and is adorned with some notable portraits of the Chief Justices of the past. The portrait of John Jay, by Gilbert Stuart, represents him arrayed in a black satin robe with broad scarlet facings. It was a gift to the court by his grandson, John Jay, late Minister to Austria. That of Taney, by Healy,* was presented by the Washington Bar * See biographical foot-note, p. 71. i 1 P it pA -i i k)t ■*> ; 1 ,4 ! I i- I w2. f ¥ I «':• '1 f 4 ,1 J'4 *i S"*' 1 , w f .. - ■ 4. ^'■iiil "'• 1 •'! 1 A TOUR OF THE CAPITOL. 47 Association. The portrait of Chief Justice Marshall is by Rembrandt Peale, and was presented to Chief Justice Chase by the bar of New York, and at his death was bequeathed by him to the Supreme Court. Neighboring rooms are devoted to court officers and clerks. The entrance to the Senate Library, on the floor above, is nearly opposite to the Supreme Court. A short corridor leads southward from the Supreme Court to the rotunda, and completes the tour of the Capitol. The Western Front of the Capitol is directly reached by leaving the rotunda through the western door and passing downstairs beneath the library, when 3^ou will emerge upon the terrace. Looking back you perceive the pillared and harmonious addition made to the original design of the building for the accommodation of the Library of Congress. It w^as first erected and occupied in 1824, after designs by Latrobe. In 1851 it was burned out, over 30,000 .books and some valuable paintings being lost. Its restoration was immediately begun by Thomas U. Walter, who added the two side halls, familiar to modern visitors, expending $300,000 in the recon- struction. (See also p. 49.) The Terrace is a broad esplanade, separated from the basement of the building by a kind of moat, M^hich permits light and air to enter the lowest story, which adds largely to the solidity and architec- tural grandeur of the Capitol when viewed from below. Underneath this terrace are a series of casemate-like apartments, which were put to a novel use during the early days of the Civil War, when this part of the building had just been put into form, for the completion of the surface and balustrade of this beautiful terrace is of much more recent date. The Capitol in war time w^as a citadel. Its halls and committee rooms were used as barracks for the soldiers, who barricaded the outer doors with barrels of cement between the pillars; its basement galleries were converted into storerooms for army provisions; and the vaults under this terrace were converted into bakeries, where 16,000 loaves of bread were baked every day for many months. In Harper's excellent "Cyclopaedia of L^nited States History," p. 947, may be seen a picture of this service, with the smoke pouring out of improvised chimneys along the outer edge. The "bakeries" are now clerks' offices and congressional committee rooms. Brpad flights of stairs, parting right and left about a fountain, lead down to a lower terrace, in the center of which is the bronze sitting figure of Chief Justice John Marshall — one of the most satisfactory statues in the city. 48 HANDY GUI D^ TO WASHINGTON. The artist is the renowned Ameriean sculptor, Wm. W. Story, who died in Rome in 1895. This statue, which was executed in Italy, was presented to the United States by members of the bar, while Congress supplied the pedestal. It was erected in 1884, and the total cost w^as $40,000. The Chief Justice, whose portrait is said to be an excellent one, is represented as seated in his accustomed court-room chair and wearing his official robe, while his open hand appears to be a gesture enforcing some evident truth or benign decision. Each side of the marble pedestal bears a group in low relief — one, "Minerva Dictating the Constitution to Young America," and the other, "Victory Leading Young America to Swear Fidelity on the Altar of the Union." From this statue broad walks descend to Pennsylvania Avenue and the Peace Monument (p. 62), on the right, and to Maryland Avenue and the Garfield Monument (p. 63), on the left. But the survey of Capitol Hill is not yet completed. III. THE NEW BUILDING FOR THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. The Library of Congress, which originated with the purchase in London in 1S02 of some 3,000 books of reference, was used as kin- dling material by the vandals who gleefully burned the Capitol and its records in 18 14. A new foundation was laid by the purchase of Thomas Jefferson's private library, and in 1851 the collection had increased to 60,000 volumes, w^hen half of it, or more, was again swept awa}?- by fire. After this damage was repaired by the recon- struction of the library front of the Capitol (p. 19), the growth was rapid. The arrangement by which the library received and continues to receive all the publications acquired by the Smithsonian system of international exchanges (p. 102), the Peter Force- and Doctor Tonerf historical collections of rare books, pamphlets, engravings, etc., and the steady accumulations under the action of the copyright law, have been the principal nuclei. Congress was very liberal to the librar)^ in its earlier days, and now grants about $55,000 a year for its support. From 1829 to 1S61 the Librarian was John S. Meehan, of New * Peter Force was born in 1790, became a prominent printer in New York, and settled in Washington in 18 12, where he died in 1868, after a useful life as printer, editor, and publicist. He collected an immense ainount of material for a documentary history of the American colonies and Revolution, of which nine volumes were published. His collection of documents, manuscripts, pamphlets, pictures, etc., was bought by the Government for !| 100,000. + Dr. J. M. Toner, now well advanced in life, has spent many years in histori- cal research and the gathering of a great store of books, engravings, and other materials for the future historian, in addition to those heretofore deposited in the library. He has also endowed a course of scientific lectures, given annually before the most intellecttial audiences, and is, indeed, one of the oracles o'f Washington. (49) 50 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. York, and from 1861 to 1S64, John G. Stephenson, of Indiana. In 1864, President Lincoln appointed as Librarian Ainsworth R. Spoff- ord of Ohio, and he has continued in the position to the present time. This collection is very rich in history, political science, jurispru- dence, and books, pamphlets, and periodicals of American publica- tion, or relating in any way to America. At the same time the library is a universal one in its range, no department of literature or science being unrepresented. The public are privileged to use the books within the library rooms, while members of Congress and about thirty officials of the Government only may take them away. The library is open every day (Sundays excepted), during the session of Congress, from 9.00 a. m. to the hour of adjournment. In the recess of Congress it is open between 9.00 a. m. and 4.00 p. m. As long ago as 1872 efforts were made to provide the Library with a separate building ; but its friends have only now seen their laud- able purpose accomplished. The fact that the Librarian has charge (since 1870) of the copyright business of the Government, and that this library is given and compelled to receive two copies of every book, picture, or other article copyrighted, makes its growth as rapid and steady as the progress of the American press, and enforces the need for ample space. Innumerable difficulties and chimerical schemes were overcome before Congress at last purchased — by con- demnation, for it was covered with dwelling-houses — the present site (ten acres, east of the Capitol grounds) for a new Library of Con- gress, paying $585,000 for the property. Work was begun in 1SS6, but not much was accomplished until 1888-9, when the work was placed in the hands of Gen. T. L. Casey, Chief of Engineers, U. S. A., under whose charge, and the superintendence of Bernard R. Green, C. E., the plans have been modified and perfected, and the work has gone on uninterruptedly ever since. The style is Italian renaissance, modified ; and the result is one of the noblest edifices externally, and the most artistically beautiful one inside, of all the grand buildings at the capital. Its ground plan is an oblong square, inclosing four courts and a rotunda. Its outside dimensions are 470 by 340 feet, and it covers three and three-quarters acres of ground. The maferz'al is Concord (N. H.) granite, exteriorly, and enameled brick within the courts. The massiveness is broken by slight projections at the corners, and relieved by numerous windows, pillars, and highly ornate carvings upon the cornices, capitals, window-casings, etc. One marked and unique feature is, that upon the keystone of each of the thirty-three arched windows is carved a human head typical of some distinct race of man. The cen- tral pavilio7i on the west, or main front (toward the Capitol), is fur- ther enriched just below the roof by four colossal figures, each repre- THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 51 senting Atlas, and is surrounded by a pediment with two sculptured American eagles as the center of an emblematic group in granite. Another feature of this front is a series of busts of great literati — Demosthenes, Dante, Scott (by Adamsi; Irving, Hawthorne, Emer- son (by Hartley); Franklin, Macaulay, and Goethe (by Ruchstuhl). The massive front staircase, with its fine granite balustrade, which forms the approach to the building, has underneath it a heavily-arched porte-cochere for carriage entrance. Over the arches of the three entrance doors are carved three spandrels, in relief, each represent- ing two female figures, by Bela Pratt, emblematic of Art, Science, and Literature. 77ie T-oof is of copper, and the dome is heavily gilded (costing $3,800) and terminates, 195 feet above the ground, in a gilded torch of vScience, ever burning — to adopt the phrase of Librarian A. R. Spofford, from whose pamphlet many of these details are drawn. In the cojistriictioii of this library the facts — almost unique in the history of Government architecture at the Capitol — should be noted, that the structure was completed within the time specified (six years), and within the limit of cost allowed ($6,250,000). There were required 400,000 cubic feet of granite, 550,000 enam- eled brick, 24,000,000 red brick, 3,000 tons of iron and steel, and 70,000 barrels of cement. The land covered is three and three-quar- ters acres, and the floor space amounts to eight acres. There are three floors, comprising a basement, level with the ground, the main or library floor, and a second story above. The 1,800 windows render this the best lighted library in the world. The pumps, coal vaults, and steam boilers are in a separate building in the rear and under ground, thus avoiding many nuisances of noise, dust, heat, etc. The Basement contains rooms for a book -bindery, packing and storing books, etc. , but it is finely finished. Four wide corridors ex- tend completely around the building, having marble wainscoted walls. The western or main entrance hall is of Italian white marble, and the western corridors of Vermont mottled blue marble, followed on the north wing by a corridor of Tennessee marble, dark red in color. On the east front the corridor is lined with Georgia marble, richly veined in black and white; while the south corridor is a vista of red and white Cham plain marble from S wanton, Vt. The Main or Library Floor is reached by the great outer stair- way and portico which admits one through the MacMonnies and Warner bronze doors to the Entrance Hall or foyer, which is adorned with veined, polished, white Italian marble, and broken by vast square piers, beyond which rise two grand staircases, one on each side, to the level of the second floor. These have solid balustrades, and their newels are enriched by festoons of leaves and flowers, and surmounted by two bronze lamp-bearers (by Philip INIartiny) for dec- 52 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHLYGTON. trie lights. The upper staircases are ornamented with twenty-six miniature marble figures by Martiny, carved in relief, representing in emblematic sculpture the various arts, sciences, and races. This en- trance hall rises unbroken to the roof, seventy -two feet above, where a skylight pours a flood of sunshine down upon the shimmering sur- faces, giving an ethereal lightness and beauty to the really massive architecture that is peculiarly effective and charming. Ascending the staircases you find yourself in a broad corridor surrounding the hall. This is all in white marble of the same Corinthian style. Lofty coupled cohimns, with elaborate acanthus capitals, support joint entablatures, whence spring the groined arches of the ceiling. North and south doorways admit to magnificent library halls ; the west windows open upon a balcony overlooking the Capitol grounds and a large part of the city, and on the east a beautiful stairway leads to the uppermost galleries of the rotunda. A long time may be spent in admiring study of this superb hall, whose details are elaborate in every par- ticular, varying constantly in small points of ornamentation, yet ever consonant with the classic model, and keeping an arti'stic tmiformity without monotony. The ornamentation of the ceilings, composed of stucco in high relief set off with gold on the eminences and bright color in the recesses, is also admirable, and becomes very striking when applied to the vaulted canopies of the great side halls. An A7'-t Gallery will be made of one of these great rooms on the second floor, measuring 217 by 35 feet, with a glass roof, for the exhi- bition of works of graphic art, of which many hundreds of thousands have been acquired by the operation of the copyright law, many of them the finest engravings. This will be constantly open to the public, and of the highest benefit to students. Another equally large room will be devoted to the display of maps, of which the library already possesses over 15,000. The Senate Readmg Room is ornamented by a striking marble relief, by Herbert Adams, over the mantel-piece. The relief in wood over the door is by the same artist. A public restaurant occupies rooms in the attic. This and all the upper parts of the building are reached by elevators. The Rotunda is, however, the crowning glory of this magnificent palace of learning. It may be reached directly from the eastern front; but the main entrance is through a noble Ionic doorway and adit, on the main floor, between the grand staircases of the entrance balls in the western front. THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 53 This rotunda, the public reading room, is an octagonal hall ico feet in diameter, beneath the great dome, whose "eye" is 125 feet above the floor. This hall is gorgeous in detail, but the whole effect is one of sumptuous furnishing, guided by a cultivated and liberal taste worthy of such a temple of education and repository of garnered thought as this edifice is designed to be. The dome is carried upon eight massive piers, connected by noble arches, each arch filled above the capitals of its supporting pillars with semicircular windows of clear glass thirty-two feet wide. The broad intrados of each arch is filled with sunken panels of color and gilded rosettes, in conformity with ' the general design of ceiling treatment. A heavy entablature of classic ornament in high relief, with all the prominences gilded, runs all around the rotunda, into every alcove, and out around all the eight piers. Each of the eight bays beneath this entablature is filled with a two-storied loggia of yellow variegated Sienna marble, the lower story consisting of three arches divided by square engaged pil- ( lars with Corinthian ca.pitals, the second story of seven lesser arches I supported by small pillars of Ionic style, extremely graceful, and I above all is carried an open gallery protected by a balustrade. These I loggias and the upper galleries, nearly forty feet from the floor, run all around the rotunda ; and it is from these, reached from the grand ' staircase and overlooking the whole room, that the sight-seeing I public gaze upon the apartment and its busy worlcers, who are I not permitted to be disturbed by the intrusion of casual visitors. ' These loggias form the eight sides of the hall, the two entrances to ' which are further distinguished by fagades of Sienna marble, which are perfect examples of the Corinthian style. Between each two adjacent I loggias, filling the corners of the octagon and forming the inner face I of the eight great projecting piers that support the arches and sus- I tain the dome, are splendid columns and faces of two shades of dark I Numidian marble, crowned by golden Corinthian capitals and stand- j ing upon pedestals of the chocolate-tinted marble of East Tennessee. J On the summit of each of these columns stands a colossal emblematic statue, the eight representing . Art, by Augustus St. Gaudens; His- tory, by Daniel C. French; Philosophy, by B. L. Pratt; Poetry, by J. Q. A. Ward; Science, by John Donoghue; Law, by Paul W. Bartlett; Commerce, by John Flanagan, and Religion, by Theodore Bauer. Two representative men for each subject are cast in bronze stat- ues of heroic size, arranged in groups around the galleries. Philos- ophy is repre'feented by Plato and Lord Bacon; History, by Herodotus 54 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. and Gibbon; Poetry, by Homer and Shakespeare; Art (embracing painting, sculpture, and music), by Michael Angelo and Beethoven; Science, by Newton and Henry; Law, by Solon and Kent; Commerce, by Columbus and Fulton, and' Religion, by Moses and St. Paul. The spandrels or triangular wall spaces between the arches are adorned by emblematic figures in relief and brought out by color, and the whole is capped by an encircling entablature of classic beauty, whence springs the superb canopy of the arch, filled with rich ornamentation to its crown, beneath Avhich, in the collar of the dome, is an exceedingly interesting and beautiful series of figures in fresco, by E. H. Blashfield, symbolizing the relations of the nations to human progress. " Thus," remarks Mr. R. Cortissoz, " Egypt is the representative of written records, Judea typifies religion, Greece is the standard- bearer of philosophy, Rome bears the same relation toward adminis- tration, Islam stands for physics, the Middle Ages are figured as the fountain-head of modern languages, Italy is represented as the source of the fine arts, Germany as sponsor for the art of printing, Spain as the first great power in discovery, England as a mighty bulwark of literature, the France of the eighteenth century as em- blematic of emancipation, and America as the nation of scientific genius. Each figure holds the insignia of its place." Nothing in the United States, and little in the world, surpasses the artistic splendor of this grand rotunda — all mellow marble, sparkle of gold, and play of significant color! The architect and designer of most of the interior finish was Edward P. Casey of New York City. The practical work of the library concentrates in the rotunda, where (in the center) stands the circular desk of the superintendent and his assistants, who can speedily communicate with all parts of the building by a S3'stem of telephones, and by pneumatic tubes, which carry messages and orders for books to any required room or book-stack. The floor is filled with small desks, arranged in concen- tric circles and separated by light screens or curtains, and the intru- sion of mere sight-seers is forbidden. Unlimited light and air are assured, and quiet is enforced; while celerity in obtaining and dis- tributing books is secured by various devices that librarians else- where will admire and copy. As there is a constant call for books of reference from the Capitol, where the legislators often want a volume for instant use, an underi^round tunnel , four feet wide and six feet high, has been made between the two buildings, containing an end- less cable carrier, upon which books maybe sent back and forth at great speed. THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 55 T/ic Stack-7'ooms, or apartments where the books themselves are kept, open out on each side of the rotunda into the lofty wings that divide the interior courts, whose enameled walls reflect a flood of light into their numerous windows. These repositories contain the most improved arrangement. Cases of iron, rising sixty-five feet to the roof, are filled with adjustable shelves of coated steel as smooth as glass. The floors of these rooms are marble, and the decks, at intervals of every seven feet from top to bottom, by which the attendants reach the shelves, are simply slabs of white marble on steel bars. Cleanliness and ventilation are thus fully assured. Each of these stacks will hold 800,000 books; and the present capacity of all those erected is about 2,000,000 volumes, while additional space can be made for 2,500,000 more, or nearly 4,500,000 volumes in all— more than the probable accumulation of the next century and a half. The greatest existing library in the world, that of France, now contains about 2,500,000 volumes. The available space for all purposes here is largely in excess of that of the British Museum, and amounts to more than two-thirds that of the Capitol itself. The remaining floor-space of the first story is devoted to copy- ( right record rooms, a librarian's office, lecture hall, private reading ' rooms for Congress and special students, and the special libraries I of the Smithsonian Institution and the Doctor Toner collection. In I all these rooms highly decorative features attract the eye on every side. Among the sculptors whose designs are used are C. H. Nie- haus, G. E. Bissell, Augustus and Louis St. Gaudens, J. T. Boyle, j C. E. Dallin, F. W. MacMonnies, and Olin L. Warner; and among \ the mural painters are Kenyon Cox, Carl Gutherz, Edwin H. Blash- I field, John \V. Alexander, Elihu Vedder, Walter McEwen, Edward j Simmons, Geo. W. Maynard, H. O. Walker, Ch. S. Pearce, Gari j Melchers, Wm. L. Dodge, and Elmer Garnsey. " The result is, that I there are found, all over the building, works which arrest the eye I for their own sake, after they have proven their value as parts of ''a decorative whole." Mosaic work in panels or mantels is designed 1 by A. H. Thayer and F. Dielman, and the two bronze doors and sev- I eral designs in marble are by Olin L. Warner. The sculptured j decorations were executed by sculptors selected by three members of 1 the National Society of Sculptors, IV. ON CAPITOL HILL. The plateau east of the Capitol was considered by the founders of the city the most desirable region for residence, and truly it was in those days, as compared with the hills and swamps of the northwest- ern quarter or the lowlands along the river. The principal owner was Daniel Carroll, and when the alternate city lots were sold for the benefit of the public funds, higher prices were paid for them here than elsewhere. Carroll considered himself sure to be a millionaire, but died poor at last ; Robert Morris of Philadelphia, the financier of the Revolution, invested heavily here and lost accordingly; and the two lots which Washington himself bought cost him about |i,ooo. Daniel Carroll built for himself what was then considered a very fine mansion styled Dudduigtoji Manor ; and that it really was a spacious, comfortable, and elegant house can be seen by any one who will walk down New Jersey Avenue, three blocks southeast of the Capitol, and then a block east on E Street, which will bring him in sight of the old house upon its tree-shaded knoll, surrounded by a high wall, and desolate amid "modern improvements." Upon the personal history of the men who have dined beneath its roof, and the stories its walls might repeat. Miss Lockwood has expatiated pleasantly in her valuable book, " Historic Homes in Washington," to whoin every one must be indebted who discourses upon the social chronicles of the capital. A more famous building was the Old Capitol Prison, as it came to be called during the Civil War, whose walls still stand upon the block facing the Capitol grounds at the intersection of Maryland Avenue with First and A streets, N. E., enclosing the lead-colored block of handsome residences called Lanier Place. This was a spacious brick building hastily erected by the citizens of Washington after the destruction of the Capitol by the British in JS14, to accommodate Congress and hold the national capital here (56) STATUE OF ADMIRAL SAMUEL F, DUPONT IN DUPONT CIRCLE. (See page 124.) \ ON CAPITOL HILL. 57 against the renewed assaults of those who wished to move the seat of Government elsewhere. While it was building, Congress held one session in Blodgett's "great hotel," which stood on the site of the present post office (p. 85), and then sat in this building until the restored Capitol was ready for them, in 1827. It was a big, plain, warehouse-like structure, which was turned into a boarding-house after Congress abandoned it, and there Senator John C. Calhoun died in 1850. When the Civil War broke out this building became a military prison for persons suspected or convicted of aiding and abet- ting the secession treason to which his influence had so powerfully contributed. Washington was full of Southern sympathizers and spies, and many are the traditions in the old families of days and weeks spent by overzealous members in " durance vile " within its ' walls, guarded by the " law-and-order brigade" of the Provost-Mar- 1 shal's office, which formed the police of the capital in those days. Here Wirz, the brutal keeper of Andersonville prison, was executed, as well as several other victims of the War. Several years ago it was remodeled into handsome residences, one of M^hich is the home of Mr, Justice Field. j The tall brick Malt by Building, directly north of the Capitol, I originally a hotel, is now occupied by congressional committees. The Coast and Geodetic Survey, a scientific branch of the Treas- ury Department to map the coast, chart the waters, and investigate (and publish movements of tides, currents, etc., for the benefit of I navigation, is domiciled in a brick building on New Jersey Avenue, I south of the Capitol, immediately in the rear of the great stone I house built long ago by Benjamin F. Butler as a residence, and which ( is now principally occupied by the Marine Hospital Service. New \ Jersey Avenue leads in that direction to Garfield Park, which is too new to be of interest, and beyond that to the shore of the Anacostia, ' near the Navy Yard.. Just west of it Delaware Avenue forms a j perfectly straight street to Washington Barracks. Capitol Hill, as the plateau of the Capitol is popularly called, can I yet show many fine, old-fashioned homes, though some formerly I notable have lately disappeared. In their place, however, have . grown up long blocks of substantial and ornate houses, making this j one of the handsomest parts of the city, which forms a district, and, to a great extent, a society, local and distinct from the official and ' fashionable Northwest, upon which the old residents look down with ill-disguised superiority, a scorn which ancient Georgetown returns with aristocratic hauteur! Capitol Hill has its own shady avenues, quiet cross streets, and pretty parks. In Stanton Square (three and one-half acres), half a mile northeast out Maryland Avenue, is H, K. Brown's bronze 58 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. statue of AlaJ.-Gen. Nathaniel Greene, who distinguished himself at Eutaw Spring and elsewhere in the South during the Revolution, and to whom a statue was voted by the Continental Congress. This statue, which was cast in Philadelphia, erected here recently, and cost, with its pedestal of New England granite, $50,000, is one of the most life-like figures in Washington, the modeling of the horse being particularly admirable. The Peabody School confronts this neat square, which is reached by the Eckington line of street-cars. A farther walk of half a mile down Massachusetts Avenue takes one to Lincoln Square — a beautifully shaded tract of six and one-quarter acres, just a mile east of the Capitol. Here Tennessee and Kentucky avenues branch off northward and southward, the former leading to Graceland and Mount Olivet cemeteries, and the latter to the Con- gressional Cemetery, and to the bridge (over the Anacostia to Twin- ing) at the foot of Pennsylvania Avenue. hi Lijicohi Sgti are the most beautiful thing is the lofty, symmet- rical sycamore tree in the center; but the most noted object is the Statue Mo7iU7ne7it to the Emancipation of the Slaves. This is a bronze group, erected by contributions from the colored freedmen of the United States, many of w^hom were set free by the proclamation, which is represented in the hand of the great benefactor of American slaves, one of whom is kneeling, unshackled, at his feet. One of the inscribed tablets upon the pedestal informs us that the first contribu- tion was the first free earnings of Charlotte Scott, a freed woman of Virginia, at whose suggestion, on the day of Lincoln's death, this monument fund was begun. This statue, twelve feet high, was cast in Munich at an expense of $17,000, and was unveiled on April 14, 1876, the eleventh anniversary of Lincoln's assassination, Frederick Douglass making the oration. East Capitol Street is a wide avenue running straight, one mile, from this park to the Capitol, between rows of elms and poplars, and continuing onward to the Eastern Branch through scanty and low- lying suburbs. On the same river bank, at the eastern terminus of Massachusetts Avenue, occupying a reservation called Hospital Square, are the District Almshouse, Workhouse (or Asylum for the Indigent), and the stone jail, costing $40,000, in which several mur- derers, including Garfield's assailant, Guiteau, have been confined and executed. Some distance away, on the Bladensburg Road, can be seen the buildings of the Boys' Reform School. All these institutions are well worth inspection by those especially interested. C/irist Church (Protestant Episcopal) on G Street, S. E., between Sixth and Seventh, is the oldest church in the cit5^ It • was I t ON CAPITOL HILL. 59 erected in 1795, and was attended by Presidents Jefferson and Madison. Services are still held there. Christ Church Cemetery, more popularly known as the congres- sional burial ground, adjoins the grounds of the workhouse on the south, and occupies a spacious tract on the bank of the Anacostia. It contains the graves and cenotaphs, formerly erected by Congress, of many persons once prominent in official life. This cemetery was the principal, if not the only, place of inter- ment at the beginning of civilization here; and many officials who died at the capital were buried there, and the practice continues. Congress contributing toward the support of the cemetery in con- sideration of this fact. Among the notable men buried here are: Vice-President George Clinton of New York; Signer and Vice-Presi- dent Elbridge Gerry of Massachusetts, whose name gave us the verb " to gerrymander"; William West, born in Bladensburg in 1772, a distinguished essayist and jurist, and finally Attorney-General under Monroe; Alexander Macomb, hero of Plattsburg, and General of the army preceding Scott, who has a fine military monument ; his prede- cessor. Gen. Jacob Brown, resting under a broken column ; Tobias Lear, Washington's private secretary; A. D. Bache, the organizer of the coast survey, and several distinguished officers of the old army and navy. A public vault, erected by Congress, stands near the center of the grounds. The nearest street-cars are at Lincoln Square, about ten minutes' walk ; or at the Navy Yard, fifteen to twenty minutes' walk along K Street, S. E., and Georgia Avenue. All this old-settled and no longer fashionable region, near the Anacostia, is spoken of rather contemptuously as "the navy yard," and it supplies a fair share of work for the police courts ; but it is greatly beloved of soldiers and sailors on leave. The Navy Yard is one of the places which visitors to Washington are usually most anxious to see, but it usually offers little to reward their curiosity outside of the gun shop. The navy yards at Brooklyn, Portsmouth, and Norfolk are all far more interesting. It stands on the banks of the broad tidal estuary of the Anacostia River, at the foot of Eighth Street, S. E., and is the terminus of the cable-cars from Georgetown along Pennsylvania Avenue. The Anacostia line of street-cars along M Street, S. E., also passes the gate. This navy yard was established (1804) as soon as the Government came here, and was an object of destruction by the British, who claim, however, that it was set on fire by the Americans; as this was the one part of the city which an enemy might be excused for destroy- ing, such a plea might have been made with better grace for their other acts of uncalled-for destructiveness; an interesting incident of this time belongs to the story of Greenleaf's Point (p. 141). It was restored, and "for more than half a century many of the largest and 60 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. finest ships of war possessed by the United States were constructed in this yard." Two spacious ship houses remain, but the yard is now almost entirely given up to the manufacture of naval guns and ammunition and the storage of equipments. It often happens that not a ship of any sort is at the wharves (though a receiving ship is usually moored there), and the sentry at the gate is almost the only sign of military occupation about the place. The residences of the officers on duty are near the gate; the office of the yard at the foot of the main walk near the wharf, and there application should be made for permission to go anywhere not open to the public. A large number of guns, showing types used in the past, are lying near the office, and a series of very interesting cannon captured from the Tri- politan, British, Mexican, or Confederate enemies whom the navy has had to fight, are mounted before the office. In a small building at the right of the gate a museum is open, which contains naval relics and curiosities of ordnance, including a gun used by Cortez in the conquest of Mexico, the English-made Armstrong shell thrown from a gun on the Alabama and stuck in the stern-post of the Kear- sarge, which was cast in Spain in 1490. The collection is well worth examination. The great entrance was designed by Benj. H. Latrobe. The Gu7i Shop. — The first great building on the right, at the foot of the stone stairs, is the most interesting place in the yard. It is filled with the most powerful and approved machinery for turning, boring, rifling, jacketing, and otherwise finishing ready for work the immense rifles required for modern battle-ships, as well as the smaller rapid-fire guns forming the supplementary batteries of the cruisers and other vessels of war. Observing carefully the posted regulations, the visitor may walk where he pleases through these magnificent factories and watch the extremely interesting process, and should it happen that any vessels of war are in the harbor, per- mission to go on board of them can be obtained at all suitable hours . The Mar me Barracks, three squares above the Navy Yard, on Eighth Street, S. E., occupy a square surrounded by brick buildings painted yellow, according to the uniform custom of the old army, and are the home station and headquarters of the Marine Corps; but, except that here is the residence of the famous Marine Band, they contain nothing of interest to the visitor, unless he likes to watch guardmounting every morning at 9.00, or the formal inspec- tion on Mondays at 10.00 a. m. The Marine Band is the only military band always stationed in Washington, and available for all military ceremonials. These advantages have given it great excellence; and its music at parades, President's receptions, inaugural balls, etc., is highly appreciated. This band gives out-door concerts in summer. The Naval Hospital, for sick and wounded officers and men of the Navy and Marine Corps, is at Pennsylvania Avenue and Ninth Street, S. E.; and at Second and D streets, S. E., is Providence Hos- ON CAPITOL HILL. 61 pital, founded in 1862, whose rear windows overlook the fine old Duddington Manor (p. 56). Anacostia is a name applied in an indefinite way to the region opposite the Navy Yard, and is reached by a bridge at the foot of Eleventh Street, crossed by the street-cars of the Anacostia & Poto- mac line. The village at the farther end of the bridge, now called Anacostia, was formerly Uniontown, and from it branch roads lead up on the Maryland Heights in various directions, where suburban villas and park- villages are rapidly extending. Twining, at the eastern end of the Pennsylvania Avenue bridge; Lincoln Heights, in the extreme eastern corner of the district; Garfield and Good Hope, on the fine Marlboro Turnpike, which is a favorite run for cyclers and where there is a summer hotel — Overlook Inn ; and Congress Heights, farther south, are the principal of these suburban centers. All of these high ridges were crowned and connected by fortifica- tions, some of which remain in fairly good condition, especially Fort Stanton, just south of Garfield, A wide and interesting view of the city and the Potomac Valley is obtained from its ramparts, and also of the great Federal Insane Asylum (p, 141), / V. FROM THE CAPITOL TO THE WHITE HOUSE. A Walk up Pennsylvania Avenue. Pennsylvania Avenue is the back-bone of Washington — the head of it resting upon the storied heights of Georgetown, and the tail lost in the wilderness of shanties east of the Navy Yard. It is four miles and a half long, but is broken by the Capitol grounds and by the Treasury and White House grounds. Between these two breaks it extends as a straight boulevard, one and a half miles in length and i6o feet wide, paved with asphalt and expanding at short intervals into spaces or parks caused by the angular intersection of other streets. It will, by-and-by, be among the grandest streets in the United States. It is only recently, how^ever, that this grandeur has begun to be realized. For years it was a mere track through a wet forest; and when at last the town had progressed to the extent of having one sidewalk, made of the sharp chips from the stone work of the Capitol, laid down the whole length of " the avenue," the people were puffed up with pride. No pavement was attempted until 1830, and then it was cheap and bad. A walk up "The Avenue" begins at the western gates of the Capitol, where First Street, N. W., curves across its rounded front. Pennsylvania Avenue strikes northwest; a few paces at the left, Maryland Avenue diverges southwest, straight down to Long Bridge. The circles at the beginning of these streets are filled with two conspicuous monuments — the Naval or Peace Memorial at Penn- sylvania, and the Garfield at Maryland, Avenue, The Naval Motiument was erected in 1878 from contributions by officers and men of that service " in memory of the officers, seamen, and marines of the United States Navy who fell in defense of the (62) STATUE OF PRESIDENT JAMES A. GARFIELD. Southwestern Entrance to Capitol Grounds. ! FROM THE CAPITOL TO THE WHITE HOUSE. 63 Union and liberty of their country, 1 861-1865." It was designed from a sketch by Admiral David D. Porter, elaborated by Franklin Simmons, at Rome, and is of pure Carrara marble, resting upon an elaborate granite foundation designed by Edward Clark, the present architect of the Capitol. America is sorrowfully narrating the loss of her defenders, while History records on her tablet: " They died that their country might live." Below these figures on the western plinth of the monument is a figure of Victory, with an infant Nep- ttme and Mars, holding aloft a laurel wreath, and on the reverse is a figure of Peace offering the olive branch. The cost was $41,000, half of which was given by Congress for the pedestal and its two statues. The Garfield Statue is a more recent acquisition, having been erected by his comrades of the Army of the Cumberland, and unveiled in 1887, to commemorate the virtues and popularity of President James A. Garfield, whose assassination, six years before, (p. 7), had horrified the whole country. The statesman stands upon a massive pedestal, in the attitude of an orator; nearer the base of the statue three figures represent three phases of his career — student, soldier, and publicist. This statue was designed by J. Q. A, Ward, and erected at an expense of $65,000, half of which was appropriated by Congress to pay for the pedestal and its three bronze figures. In the triangle between these two avenues lies the ten-acre tract of the Botanical Garden, where Congressmen get their button-hole bouquets, and their wives cuttings and seeds for pretty house-plants. It long ago outlived its scientific usefulness, and has never attained excellence as a public pleasure-garden or park, while its cost has been extravagant. In its central greenhouse may be seen certain tropical plants brought home by the Wilkes and Perry exploring expeditions; and the conspicuous illuminated foun- tain in the center of the grounds is the one by Bartholdi, so greatly admired at the Centennial Exposition, 1876. It cost $6,000. In 1836, Congress bought a fountain for this garden from Hiram Powers. Through this garden, and along the northern margin of The Mall beyond it, used to run the old Tiber Canal, and there was much low, malaria-producing ground in this region. To get money to fill this up, Congress sold as building lots the land opposite the Botanical Garden, along the northern side of Pennsylvania Avenue, which had been reserved as a park, extending as far as Four-and-a-half Street. The small buildings and petty enterprises there are relics of 64 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. what followed. Four-and-a-half Street, taking the place of Fourth and Fifth, which are absent south of Judiciary Square, is a broad thoroughfare coming straight down from the city hall (p. 17), in front of which is the Lincoln Column. This street, which runs straight to the gate of the military post at Greenleaf's Point (p, 141), has two or three churches, still prominent, and many fine old houses reminders of the days, thirty-five years back, when it was the center of the fashionable residence-quapter. It was along this part of the Avenue that the famous gambling-houses of Washington kept open house many years ago. The buildings improve as we proceed, and in the next block, on the right, is the National Hotel, with the St. James opposite — both old houses. The record of the National goes back to the early decades of the century, and in the time of Clay and Webster it was filled with the leading spirits in the Government, who caused many memorable things to happen beneath its roof. Its first conductor was Mr. Gadsby, who came from Alexandria, and the hotel has always been conducted after Southern models and still commands more custom from that region than elsewhere. Passing the Balti- more & Potomac (Pennsylvania Rd.) Station on the left (p. 7), we cross Sixth Street, and find ourselves in front of the Metropolitan Hotel — an immense, old-fashioned hostelry standing upon ground devoted to hotel uses since the opening of the century. Here was the Great, or Brown's, Hotel kept by the Browns, father and son, which later took the title of Indian Queen, and was the scene of the greatest festivities of the first third of the city's career. It has been a capacious hotel under its present name for many years, and is largely inhabited by Congressmen, This brings us to Seventh Street, the chief north-and-south artery of trafiic; and this is one of the busiest corners in the city, several railways crossing here and exchanging passengers, who get their transfer tickets at a booth under an awning, on the southwest corner. Out of the open plaza, northwest, where open-air preachers hold forth every Sunday, and nostrum- vendors on week-days, Louisiana Avenue extends in a broad boulevard to Judiciary Square. Its diagonal crossing of Pennsylvania Avenue leaves a triangle, upon which stands the new equestrian statue of Maj.-Gen. Winfield S. Hancock. On the south side of the avenue here, stretching from Seventh to Ninth Street, is Cettter Market, one of the most spacious, conven- ient, well-furnished, and withal picturesque establishments of its kind in th« country. FROM THE CAPITOL TO THE WHITE HOUSE, 65 No one should consider a tour of Washington made until they have spent an early morning hour in this market, and in the open-air country market behind it, along the railings of the Smithsonian grounds, where the gaunt farmers of the Virginia and Maryland hills stand beside their ramshackle wagons, hovering over little fires to keep warm, and quaint old darkies offer for sale old-fashioned flowers and "yarbs,"live chickens, and fresh-laid eggs, bunches of salad or fruit from their tiny^ suburban fields, smoking cob pipes and crooning wordless melodies just as they used to be in " befo' de wa' " days. There are four or five great markets in Washington, the prop- erty of corporations, and this city of boarding-houses thus enjoys (as from its situation it ought to do) unusual facilities for obtaining fresh country produce and the delicacies of sea and river. This building is 415 feet long, and cost $350,000, and the others are not much smaller; but more outside space is devoted to market busi- ness here than elsewhere. Between the market and Pennsylvania Avenue is a park space, through which runs the depression marking the old Tiber Canal, now a grassy trench crossed by a picturesque bridge. Here stands the Statue of Maj .-Gen. John A. Rawlins, Grant's Chief of Staff, and later his Secretary of War, who also has a small park named after him in the rear of the War Office, where this monument was first erected. This statue, which is of bronze, after designs by J. Bailey, cast by Wood & Co., in Philadelphia, from rebel cannon captured by Granfs armies, was erected in 1874, and paid for ($12,000) by friends of the General, who died here in 1869. Good modern buildings and fine stores line the avenue from here (on to Fifteenth Street, especially on the northern side. At Ninth Street another north-and-south artery of street-car traffic is crossed, 'iand the Academy of Music appears at the right. On the corner is j Perry's dry-goods store, one of the most completely "stocked" in (the city. The sharp angle southw'ard, between Louisiana Avenue and C Street, was for many years occupied by the second Ford's 'Theater, which later became a vaudeville play-house. Tenth Street, the next, is historic. At the left, past the market, is the principal entrance to the Smithsonian grounds; and on the cor- ner is the office of a lively morning newspaper. The Times. The jopen space here is decorated with Plassma7i s Statice of Benjaini7i \Franklin, looking shrewdly down upon the trafficking throng, as that I eminent man of affairs was wont to do. It is marble, of heroic size, represents Franklin in his court dress as Minister to the Court of {France, and was presented to the city in 1889, by Stillson Hutchins. Ian editor and writer of wide reputation. The assassination of \President Lincoln occurred in the old Ford's Theater on this Tenth Street, in the second block north of Pennsylvania Avenue, and the I buildings made sacred by the event are still standing. 66 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. Ford's Theater, which, during the Civil War, was the leading theater in the city, has long been occupied by the Government as offices. Here, on the night of April 14, 1865, President Lincoln, with members of his family and staff, went, by special invitation, to wit- ness a play in which the actor J, Wilkes Booth had a principal part. During an intermission Booth entered the box in which the President sat, shot him in the back of the head with a revolver, and then leaped to the stage. At the same time other assassins made attempts upon the life of the cabinet officers — that upon Secretary Wm. H. Seward nearly proving successful. Booth leaped to the stage, and, with the other assassins, made his escape, but all were soon recaptured, brought to Washington (except Booth, who was killed in Maryland) and incarcerated in the old penitentiary at the Arsenal (p, 141), where four of the leaders of the conspiracy were tried and hung. Ford's Theater was at once closed by order of the Government, which pur- chased the building in 1866. It was remodeled and appropriated to the uses of the surgeon-general's office. There were placed the col- lections and vast library now safely stored in the new Army Medical Museum (p. 107). Later the building was handed over to the Record and Pension Division of the War Department, and on June 9, 1893, suffered a collapse of the floors, which caused the death and maiming of many clerks. During all this time the proscenium pillar, next which Mr. Lincoln sat when he was killed, had been preserved in place, properly marked; it survived the disaster of 1893, and can still be seen. The house to which Lincoln was carried, opposite the theater (No. 516), is marked by a tablet, and is open to visitors, who are shown the rear room on the ground floor in which the great martyr died. A large and miscellaneous collection of "Lincoln relics" is now displayed by the owner in the other rooms, and an admission fee of 25 cents is charged. The corner of Eleventh Street is distinguished by the office of the long-established and ably edited Evening Star, opposite which, fill- ing the whole square on the south side, is the lofty, castellated, steel- framed, and stone-walled building intended, when finished, to accom- modate the local post office, and to furnish quarters for many public offices for which the Government is now paying a high rent in various parts of the city. It has more the appearance of a commercial than a Government building, and embodies every arrangement for safety and convenience known to modern architects. On the southeast cor- ner of the avenue and Eleventh Street is Harvey's old-time restau- rant, celebrated for its oysters, and next to it Kernan's L3^ceum— a vaudeville theater. Next comes Twelfth Street. Here the northeast corner is occupied by the tall, new Raleigh Hotel, whose lobby is a wonder of marble and metal work, and a little above, among fine shops, is the office of The News. FROM THE CAPITOL TO THE WHITE HOUSE. 67 Thirteenth St^'cet follows, with two pretty little parks — that on Che right confronted by hotels, restaurants, etc., and by the New National Theater, which is among the foremost places of amusement in the city. The handsome home of The Post, the leading morning newspaper, is just beyond. On the south side of the street, half a square is covered by the great brick power-house of the Washington & Georgetown Railroad, whose cable system is now the basis of the Capital Traction Company. If you care to see what Washington looked like forty years ago, glance down Thirteen-and-a-half Street, on the lower side of this building, or wander southwest of it, where various obscure streets are inhabited by the demi-monde and their companions. This region acquired the soubriquet of " the Division " during the war, when the provost-marshal used to throw a cordon about the whole district at midnight, and put under arrest every soldier caught inside the net when morning came. Then comes Fourtee7ith Street. This is the most important thoroughfare, north and south, in this part of the city, extending from the Long Bridge, at the foot of Maryland Avenue, northward to Mount Pleasant. The Belt Line cars run southward upon it from Pennsylvania Avenue to the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, and so on around to the jl Capitol, and the Alexandria & Mount Vernon Electric Line termi- nates here. At the right (northward) the street slopes steeply up the I hill to F Street, and this block, as far as the Ebbitt House, is known j as Newspaper Row, because filled with the offices of correspondents I of newspapers all over the country. Opposite them, filling the northwest corner, is Willard's Hotel. I The traditions of IVzIlard's go back to the early days. John \ Tayloe, owner of the Octagon House (p. 95), built a hotel, which I descended to Ogle Tayloe, and was called the City Hotel, but never succeeded until Mrs. Tayloe advised her husband to engage as its I manager the steward of a Hudson River steamer whose dining-room j arrangements had attracted her admiration. The result was the I coming to Washington, from Vermont, of Henry A. Willard, soon j followed by three brothers. Their skill and address soon lifted the I hotel to a level with the best. Presently, C. C. Willard took charge I of the new Ebbitt House, and still later, Tayloe's Hotel was rebuilt, I and became the present " Willard's" Hotel, which was opened by a I grand banquet at which such men as Edward Everett, J. Q. Adams, / Judge Marshall, Webster, Clay, and Calhoun made merry speeches. During the war Willard's Hotel was the most prominent, if not the best, hotel at the capital, and every army officer and statesman, from Lincoln and Grant down, was entertained there, and many momen- tous things have been said and done by these powerful men within 7 68 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. its walls. Willard's no longer enjoys the distinction of those days, but its lobby is still the foremost resort of political giridmeitcs and office-seekers, especially from the South and West, The block opposite Willard's is devoted to business houses and has the Regent Hotel, whose side windows overlook a green expanse of parking down to the Potomac. Around the corner to the left, on Fifteenth Street, are Allen's (formerly Albaugh's) Grand Opera House, occupying a part of the armory of the Washington Light Infantry, the house of the Capital Bicycle Club, etc. This brings us to the end of the avenue, against the southern por- tico of the Treasury. The small wooden building within the gates is devoted to the official photographer. Turning to the right, up the slope of Fifteenth St7'eet, we pass the busy terminus of F Street, and go on to G, where the Riggs House forms a dignified corner-piece. A few steps farther the broad avenue in front of the Treasury opens the wa}^ northward and brings us to that goal of patriotic ambition — the White House. VI. AT THE EXECUTIVE MANSION, The Executive Mansion, more commonly called the White House, has gained for itself a world-wide reputation in a century's existence. George Washington Was present at the laying of the corner-stone in 1792, in w^hat then was simply David Burns' old fields stretching down to the Potomac (for this was the first public building to be erected), but John Adams was the first President to live in the build- ing (iSoo), which was still so new and damp that his wife was obliged to have a literal house-warming to dry the interior sufficiently for safety to health. Its cost, up to that time, had been about $250,000. The architect, James Hoban, who had won reputation by building some of the fine houses on the Battery in Charleston, took his idea of the mansion from the house of the Irish Duke of Leinster, in Dublin, who had, in turn, copied the Italian style. The material is Virginia sandstone, the length is 170 feet, and the width 86 feet. The house ( stands squarely north and south, is of two stories and a basement, I has a heavy balustrade along the eaves, a semicircular colonnade on « the south side (facing the river and finest grounds), and a grand portico and porte-cochere on the northern front, added in Jackson's time. Its cost, to the present, exceeds $1,500,000. In 1814 the British set fire to the building, but heavy rains extinguished the conflagration before it had greatly injured the walls. Three years later the house had been restored, and the whole was then painted white, to cover the ravages of fire on its freestone walls, a color which has been kept ever since, and is likely to remain as long as the old house does, not only because of the tradition, but because it is really effective among the green foliage in which the mansion is ensconced. It was reopened for the New Year's Day reception of President Monroe in 1818. (69) 70 - HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. The President's Grounds consist of some eighty acres sloping down to the Potomac Flats. The immediate gardens were early- attended to, as is shown by the age and size of the noble trees; but only lately has the more distant part of the grounds been set in order. This part, as also the park nearer the house, is open freely to the pubiic, under the eye of policemen; and here, in warm weather, the Marine Band gives out-door concerts in the afternoon, and the people come to enjoy them. At such times fashion gathers in its carriages upon the winding roads south of the mansion, and assumes the formal parade of Rotten Row or the Bois de Boulogne. It is here, too, on the sloping terrace just behind the White House, that the children of the city gather on Easter Day to roll their colored eggs — a pretty custom that is purely local and the origin of which has been quite forgotten. Lafayette Square (p. no) ought also to be included as practically a part of the President's grounds. Admission to certain parts of the White House is almost as free to everybody as it is to any other of the people's buildings in their capital. Coming from Pennsylvania Avenue by the principal approach, along the semicircular carriage drive that leads up from the open gates, the visitor enters the stately vestibule through the front portico, from whose middle upper window Lincoln made so many impromptu but memorable addresses during the war. Here will be found doorkeepers, without livery or other distinguishing mark save a badge, who direct callers upon the President up the staircase to the offices (p. 73}, and form visitors, who wish to see the public rooms of the mansion, into little parties, who are conducted under their guidance. The first public apartment visited is that on the left as you enter, occupying the eastern wing of the building and called The East Room. This, which was originally designed for a ban- quet hall, and so used until 1827, is now the state reception room. It is 80 feet in length, 40 feet wide, and 22 feet high, and has eight beautiful marble mantels surmounted by tall mirrors. Its embellishments are renewed every eight or ten years, reflecting the changing fashion in decoration; but the crystal chandeliers, which depend from each of the three great panels of the ceiling (dating, with their supporting pillars, from Grant's time), are never changed; and whatever the style, the profusion of gilding and mirrors gives a brilliant background for the gorgeously arrayed assemblages that gather here on state occasions, when the hall is a blaze of light and ESTABLISHED 1840. PERRY'S Dry Goods of the Best Class Sojourners in Washington who find it necessary or agreeable to shop, can, we are sure, see here an assort- ment of latest novelties — exclusive styles — and reliable staples at prices that will meet their approval. Pennsylvania Ave. and Ninth St. AT THE EXECUTIVE MANSION. 71 a garden of foliage and flowers from the great conservatories. Full- length portraits of George and Martha Washington are conspicuous among the pictures on the walls. The former used to be thought one painted by Gilbert Stuart (p. 36), but it is now known to be the work of an obscure English artist who copied Stuart's style — a "very feeble imitation" Healy pronounced it. " Every visitor is told," remarks Mr. E, V. Smalley, who explained these facts in The Cejitury Magazine, " that Mrs. Madison cut this painting from out of its frame with a pair of shears, to save it from the enemy, when she fled from the town [in 1814]; but in her own letters describing the hasty flight, she says that Mr. Custis, the nephew of Washington, hastened over from Arlington to save the precious portrait, and that a servant cut the outer frame with an ax, so that the canvas could be removed, stretched on the inner frame." The portrait of Mrs. Martha Washington is a modern compo- sition by E. B. Andrews of Washington. A full-length portrait of Thomas Jefferson, said to be by Gilbert Stuart, and one of Lincoln also occupy panels here. The East Room is open to any one daily from ten to three, but the other official apartments are only visible by special request, or, when, at intervals, a custodian leads a party through them. Adjoining the East Room, at its southern end, is the Green Room, so named from the general color of its decorations and furniture, which are traditional. The tone is pale gray green. The ceiling is ornamented with an exquisite design of musical instruments entwined in a garland with cherubs and flowers, and there is a grand piano. There are touches of gilt everywhere upon the ivory-like woodwork, and the rococo open-work in the tops of the windows, from which the curtains hang, is noticeable. Here hang several notable por- traits. One of these is a full-length, by Huntington, President of the National Academy, of Mrs. Benjamin Harrison, which was pre- sented by the Daughters of the American Revolution, of whose society she was president. Another notable portrait by the same artist is the full-length of Mrs. Rutherford B. Hayes, presented by the Woman's Christian Temperance Union, commemorating Mrs. Hayes' courage in maintaining the cold-water regime at the Executive Mansion. Three other portraits are hung here by friends. One is of Mrs. James K. Polk; another, of th^ second wife of Presi- dent Tyler, and the third, of the wife of Major Van Buren, son of President Martin Van Buren, known in his time as " Prince Harry." Next to this is the somewhat larger (40 by 30 feet) and oval Blicd 72 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. Room, which bows outward in the center of the colonnade of the south front of the building, and whose decorations are in pale blue and gold. It is here that the President stands when holding recep- tions, the ceremonial of which is described elsewhere (p. 128); and here President and Mrs. Cleveland were married in 1886. The Red Room, west of the Blue Room, a square room of the same size as the Green Parlor, has a more home-like look than the others, by reason of its piano, mantel ornaments, abundant furniture, and pictures, and the fact that it is used as a reception-room and private parlor by the ladies of the mansion. The prevailing tone is Pom- peiian red, and the walls are covered with portraits, as follows: A full-length of President Arthur, by Daniel Huntington, N. A. A full-length of Cleveland, by Eastman Johnson. A full-length of Benjamin Harrison, by Eastman Johnson, 1895. A half-length of James A. Buchanan. A half-length of Martin Van Buren, by Healy.^ A half-length of Zachary Taylor, by Healy. A half-length of John Adams, by Healy. All these rooms open upon the corridor running lengthwise the building and separated from the vestibule by a partition of glass, which President Arthur prevailed upon Congress to order, to replace an old wooden one. "The hght coming through the partition of wrinkled stained-glass mosaic makes a marvelously rich and gorgeous effect, falHng upon the gilded niches where stand dwarf palmetto trees, the silvery net-work of the ceiling, and the sumptuous furni- ture." In this corridor hang several portraits of Presidents, includ- ing a full-length of Washington by an Ecuadorian artist, Cadena of Quito, and presented by him; and of Polk, Garfield (by Andrews), Hayes, Fillmore, Tyler, Grant (by Le Clair), and Jackson — one of Andrews' early efforts. Many of the older ones are by Healy, who painted portraits of Presidents J. Q. Adams, Tyler, Jackson, Van Buren, Taylor, Fillmore, Polk, Pierce, Buchanan, Lincoln, and Grant. Each President is supposed to leave his portrait here. The State Dining Room is at the south end of this corridor, on the left, in the corner of the house. It me asures 40 by 30 feet, and * George P. A. Healy was born in Boston in 1814; went to Paris to study art in i8-,6, and spent most of his life in Europe, returning occasionally, and passing the years 18^=5 to 1867 in Chicago. He was a vigorous portrait painter, producing several hundred pictures, including those of almost every prominent American of his time, and many of the most distinguished persons in Europe, where he was identified with the court of Louis Phillipe. He painted a few historical groups, of which his "Webster Replying to Hayne," now in Faneuil Hall, Bos- ton, is best known. He died in 1894, and a gossipy volume of his Reminis- cences " was published subsequently. See also pages 46 and 74. I A T THE EXE C U TI VE MA NSION. 73 is in the Colonial style, the j)revailing colors being a dull yellow, meant to light up warmly under gas-light. " The ceiling is surrounded with a frieze of garlands, about 3j^ feet wide, with medallions at intervals. From these wreaths and vines run to the chandeliers. Beneath the cornice is a heavy frieze about four feet in width, w^hich blends into the wall, with garlands of native vines, leaves, and fruits. . . . The general character of the work is known as ' applique relief,' w^hich is produced by blending transpar- en*t colors on a light ground, . . . the effect being greatly increased by the fact that the various colors and figures are ' edged up ' in relief to imitate the corded or raised work in applique. . . . State dinners are usually given once or twice a week during the winter, and are brilliant affairs. Lavish use is made of plants and flowers from the conservatories, and the table, laden with a rare display of plate, por- celain, and cut-glass, presents a beautiful appearance, forming an effective setting for the ga}^ toilets of the ladies and their glittering jewels. The table service is exceedingly beautiful, and is adorned with various representations of the flora and fauna of America. The new set of cut-glass was made at White Mills, Pa., and is regarded as the finest ever produced in this country. It consists of ■520 separate pieces, and was especially ordered by the Government for the White House. On each piece of the set, from the mammoth center-piece and punch -bowl to the tiny salt cellars, is engraved the coat of arms of the United States. The execution of the order occu- pied several months, and cost $6,000. The table can be made to accommodate as many as fifty -four persons, but the usual number of guests is from thirty to forty." * The western door of the corridor leads into the conservatory, which is always in flourishing beauty; and opposite the state dining- room is the private or family dining-room, a cozy apartment looking out upon the avenue. The private stairway is near its door. A but- ler's pantry, a small waiting-room at the right of the vestibule, and an elevator complete the list of rooms on this main floor. The basement is given up entirely to the kitchen, store-rooms, and servants' quarters. The business offices of the President and his secretaries are on the second floor, at the eastern end, and are reached by a stairway at the left of the vestibule. At the head of the stairway sits a messenger who directs persons into the large ante-room, which is in reality a * To this quotation from Evans it is proper to add that the President sits in the middle of the table, with his wife opposite, and the guests are arranged without any recognized rule of oflficial precedence — a matter upon which the aristocratic early Presidents wasted a deal of thought, only to have Jefferson cut the Gordian knot by giving nobody precedence, but treating his guests exactly as any private gentleman would do. Nevertheless, the Presidents are expected to, and do, acknowledge distinctions in placing their guests, though the rule could hardly be formulated. See Chapter X. 74 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. part of the broad hall reaching from end to end of the second floor that has been partitioned ofl^. Here are polite and sagacious attend- ants, who take the cards of visitors to the President, usually by way of the private secretary, and in many cases they get no farther. The P7'cside7ifs Private Secretary has grown to be an important personage with the increase of executive business, all of whose details he supervises, having for himself (at present) the southeast corner room, and for his assistants the two rooms across the hall facing Pennsylvania Avenue. He has not only the President's correspond- ence and ordinary records to look after, but must do much that no other office requires. Big ledgers of applications for office are posted up daily ; numerous pigeon-holes are filled with letters and petitions ; the newspapers are read and scrap-books are made ; one room is devoted to telegraph and telephone service ; in short, here are all the paraphernalia of a busy public office. According to the present rules the President (Mr. Cleveland) holds cabinet meetings each Tuesday and Friday at ii.oo a. m.; reserves Monday entirely for " public business requiring his uninter- rupted attention ;" will receive Senators and Representatives from ten to twelve on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, and other persons from 12 to i o'clock; while those having no business, but who desire to pay their respects, will be received by the President in the East Room at i p. m. on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays. The President's office is next to that of the private secretary — a large, plain, comfortably furnished room, lined with cases of books of law and reference. His great desk is at the southern end of the room, and the President sits with his back to the window, which commands a wide view down the Potomac; it was from this window that Lincoln watched the troops filing across the Long Bridge on their way to Virginia — and a day or two later watched them rush- ing back again, helter-skelter, after the battle of Bull Run. The Cabinet Room is next beyond, immediately over the Green Room — another plain, handsome, rather dark apartment, with a long table down the center surrounded by arm-chairs. The Presi- dent sits at the southern end of the table, with the Secretary of State on his right, the Secretary of the Treasury on his left, and the others farther down the table. The more or less valuable portraits of several past Presidents look down upon them from the walls. " It was no part of the plan of the W^hite House . . . that it should be a public office, but with the growth of the country and of the political patronage system, the proper use of the building as a dwelling for the chief magistrate has been more subordinated to its official use as a bureau of appointments and a rendezvous for the scheming poli- ticians of the two houses of Congress, who claim the Government offices in their States as their personal property, to be parceled out BSTABUSHED 1875. Edmonston & Co. 1334 F Street, Washington, D. C. DEALERS IN /\ GENTS for celebrated makers, amongst whom are J y ''Laird, Schober & Co.," Philadelphia, Pa., manu- facturers of ladies', misses', and children's fine grade shoes, slippers, and ties, and ''Stacy, Adams & Co.," Brockton, Mass., men's shoes in all grades and style's. " Orders by mail receive our special attention." |! We are located adjoining the Ebbitt House, and near ^ to the Arlington, Shoreham, Normandie, Riggs, Willards, Oxford, Raleigh, and all the principal hotels. TELEPHONE 1633. A T THE EXECUTIVE MANSION. 75 by the President in accordance with their wishes. It will doubtless surprise many people to learn that hospitality, save in the restricted sense of giving dinners, is almost an impossibility to the President of the United States, for the reason that he has no beds for guests. There are only seven sleeping rooms in the mansion, besides those of the servants on the basement floor. If a President has a moderately numerous household, ... he can hardly spare for guests more than the big state bedroom. A President may wish to invite an ambassador and his family, or a party of distinguished travelers from abroad, to spend a few days at the White House, but he can not do so without finding lodgings elsewhere for the members of his own household. It has been said over and over again, in the press, that Congress should either provide offices for the President, or should build for him a new dwelling, and devote the mansion exclusively to business purposes; but Congress is in no hurry to do either." — E. F. SjnaUey. The Executive Mansion is well guarded. A large force of watch- men, including police officers, is on duty inside the mansion at all hours, and a continuous patrol is maintained by the local police of the grounds immediately surrounding the mansion, and it is hardly possible for any one to approach the building at any time without detection. The patrol of the grounds entails special hardships in the bitter cold nights of winter, and it was to lessen these that the sentry boxes were erected. As an additional safeguard, automatic alarm signals are fixed in different parts of the house, and there are telephones and telegraphs to the military posts, so that a strong force of police and soldiers could be obtained almost at a moment's notice. The annoyance and danger from cranks, as well as villains, has thus been as fully guarded against as it is possible to do. VII. THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS. The Executive Departments are those over which the cabinet officers preside and in which the daily administration of the Gov- ernment is carried on. There have not always been so many, nor have they always been known by their present names ; and it is only recently, under the law of 1886, prescribing the order of succession to the Presidency, that any authoritative sequence could be observed in the list, which is now as follows : The Department of State, presided over by the Honorable the Secretary of State. The Treasury Department, the Secretary of the Treasury. The War Department, the Secretary of War. The Department of Justice, the Attorney-General. The Post Office Department, the Postmaster-General. The Navy Department, the Secretary of the Navy. The Department of the Interior, the Secretary of the Interior. The Department of Agriculture, the Secretary of Agriculture. All these are situated in the immediate neighborhood of the Executive Mansion, except those of the Post Office, Interior, and Agriculture. The departments are the business offices of the Government, and " politics " has much less to do with their practical conduct than the popular clamor would lead one to suppose. The occasional shirk or blatherskite makes himself noticed, but the average employe, from head to foot of the list, faithfully attends to his business and does his work. This must be so, or the business of the nation could not be carried on ; and otherwise, men and women would not grow gray in its service, as they are doing, because their fidelity and skill can not be spared so long as their strength holds out. Year by year, with the growth of intelligence and the extension of the civil service idea and practice, "politics" has less and less to do with the practical (76) THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS. 77 administration of the business of the nation at its capital; and year by year, better and more economical methods and results are achieved. No civil pensions have yet been established as the further reward of long and faithful service. The Department of State stands first on the list, and occupies the south and noblest front of the State, War, and Navy Building — that towering pile of granite west of the White House, which has been so honestly admired by the populace and so often condemned by critics. The architect was A. B. Mullet, who had a great fondness for the "Italian renaissance," as is shown by the post offices of New York and Boston, and by other public edifices executed while he was supervising architect of the Treasury. This building is 471 feet long by 253 feet wide, and surrounds a paved court-yard containing engine-houses, etc. It is built, outwardly, of granite from Virginia and Maine, and the four fagades are substantially alike, though the south front, where space and slope of the ground favors, has a grander entrance than the other sides. The building was begun in 1871 and not wholly finished until 1893, covers four and a half acres, contains two miles of corridors, and cost $10,700,000. It is in charge of a superintendent, responsible to a commission composed of the three Secretaries occupying it. The Department of State has charge not only of all correspond- ence and dealings with foreign nations, but of the correspondence between the Presidents and the Executives of the States. It is the custodian of treaties with foreign states, of the laws of the United States, the publication of which is under its direction; and of the Great Seal, which is affixed to all executive proclamations, to various commissions, and to warrants for the extradition of fugitives from justice. The Secretary of State is the "premier," in the sense that he is the first cabinet officer appointed, and first (after the Vice- President) in rank of succession to the Presidency in case of an accidental vacancy. His lieutenants are the first, second, and third, assistant secretaries and a chief clerk, and the work of the depart- j""<^nt is divided among seven bureaus, as follows: Diplomatic Bureau iplomatic correspondence; Consular Bureau — consular corre- spondence; Bureau of Indexes and Archives — opening, preparing, indexing, and registering all correspondence, and preservation of the archives; Bureau of Accounts — custody and disbursement of appro- priations, indemnity funds and bonds, and care of the property; Bu 3au of Rolls and Library — custody of the treaties, etc.; promul- gation of the laws, etc.; care and superintendence of the library and puh:"c documents; care of the Revolutionary archives, and of papers relating to international commissions; Bureau of Statistics — edits and unblishes the consular reports and the annual report to Congress entii ed "Commercial Relations of the United States." 78 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. All of the apartments of the " foreign office" are elegant, and one fancies he sees a greater formality and dignity, as certainly there is more of studious quiet, here than in any other department. The Secretary and assistant secretaries occupy a line of handsome offices in the second story, looking southward across the park, among which is the long and stately room assigned to conferences with representa- tives of foreign governments, or similar meetings, and hence called the Diplomatic Room. An opportunity to inspect this should be accepted, if only to obtain a sight of the likenesses of the past Secre- taries of State, with which its walls are almost covered. All of these portraits are by men of talent, and some are of superior merit: That of Clay, by E. D. Marchant, and those of Fish and Frelinghuysen, by Huntington, are especially praised. Lord Ashburton is here also, beside Webster — his great coadjutor in the adjudication of the boundary between the United States and Canada. This room, the furniture, rugs, and hangings of which are dark and elegant, is said to have been arranged by Secretary Hamilton Fish. Near by is another elegant apartment — the Diplomatic Aiite-Room, where foreign dignitaries await audience with the premier. The show-room of the department, however, is The Library, in spite of the fact that several curious objects, formerly exhibited there, are no longer on view. The precious original drafts of the Declaration of Independence and of the Constitution were disintegrating and fading under exposure to the light, and have been shut up in a steel safe, after having been hermetically sealed between plates of glass, which arrangement, it is hoped, will stop their decay. A precise fac-simile of the Declaration, made about 1820, hangs upon the Library wall. The Great Seal and certain curious early treaties of oriental and barbarous states are no longer exhibited. Here may be seen, however, the war sword of Washington — the identical weapon he was accustomed to wear in camp and campaign; and the sword of Jackson, at New Orleans — broken, to be sure, but mended by a skillful armorer, and not by himself at a blacksmith's forge, as the old story relates. Jefferson's writing-desk, Franklin's staff and buttons from his court dress, a lorgnette given by Washington to Lafayette, a copy of the Pekin Gazette, which has been /;-/;//''>der or to the Secrit ",'1T °"" P'°P'^ -'* «^« Government. Hence he Secretary of the Interior is charged with the supervision of public landrSetw"^ \ '^'T '"' '°^^"''™^- Pe-ions and boun^ ands the public lands and surveys, the Indians, education , railroads the geological survey, the census, the National parks re ervaUons ments. There was sent to it the Patent Office and Census from thl Department of State, the:General Land Office from'he Vr ,n Indian Affairs from the War Department, and the Pension Offl'' rom under the control of the War and Navy depart etT ut buHtrffi ' "f ^^'^"^^^^ ^' ^''' - misc'ellanL d ;t^^^^^^^ but Its offices offer little to interest the casual sight-seer He wj wish, however, to visit one or two. '''^^ --I^^!-?!^!!!^!!^^^!^^^ their offices in the great from'tt Smmfssf?/eT of-'S;^^^^^^^^ Land 'o^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ officials and employes; instructs mine fnspectorvsn^.r^-''''"^' '^^^''^^^ ^S^i"«t to the Indians, to the distribution S certain nn hit '^^'^'''' matters pertainiuR ment's charitable and correSiSna? in^t?tfALS^ ''.^'''v'i'"^"^^' ^o the Govern- the National parks and ?ocolleSaidldbv?h^ r *^^ ^^'^'^"* °*' Columbia, to tary in the absence of that offici? Vvt 5^cX/ ^.^'T'""?^"*' ^"^ ^^^s as Secre- general supervision of the business of thl board { ^r''^'":y ^-/ ^^'^ ///Av/.v has signs letters patent; examines off cialbonHf/r.!^'^ Pension appeals; counter- and disbarment from pracTice of aUornevrand^"l^°"*^ ^'^^ the admission the absence of both that officer and the JTrstlssis5«nf^''"f''^' a.sSecretary in Aj^orney-Genera/ is the chief lan'omr^nJfhf^T.} }■ ^^ecretary. The Assistant General Land Office are sei?t to L?office-^for .nn fn ''^''^^ ^X^ appeals from the heard by him in the more imSrtant cases or h.^^kI^^^^"- J^\^^ arguments are pared under his supervision ' ^ ^^^^^' ^"^ decisions are pre- James L. Norris COUNSELOR IN PATENT OAUSES Solicitor of American and . . . Foreign Patents . . . .ESTABLISHED 7869. IN ACTIVE PRACTICE TWENTY -SIX YEARS. COR. F AND FIFTH STS., WASHINGTON, D. C. NORRIS' NEW OFFICE BUILDING, ERECTED IN 1880. PATENTS. ]^.ULL INFORMATION as to requirements and costs for 21^ securing Letters Patent on Inventions, Caveats, Trade- ^ marks, etc., SENT FREE in pamphlet on request, it naming some of my clients in every State. Letters Patent procured in the United States and Foreign Countries. Trade-mark, Label, Caveat, and Copyright protection secured. Searches n^ade and opinions given as to the validity and infringement of Letters Patent, SPECIAL REFERENCES NATIONAL BANK OF WASHINGTON, WASHINGTON, D. C. NATIONAL BANK OF THE REPUBLIC, WASHINGTON, D. C. CENTRAL NATIONAL BANK, WASHINGTON, D. C. RIGGS <& CO., BANKERS, WASHINGTON, D. C. DAN' L B. CLARKE, PRES'T FRANKLIN INS. CO., WASH- INGTON, D. C. CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS. 87 Doric-Greek building covering the two squares reaching from Seventh to Ninth streets between F and G, which everybody calls the Patent Office, because designed for and mainly occupied by that bureau. The first law granting patents was passed in 1790, and until 1803 the power was vested in the State Department. In 18 10 Congress purchased Blodgett's "great" hotel — a big incomplete brick building at the southwest corner, now covered by the General Post Office — for the accommodation of the Commissioner of Patents, and were obliged to enlarge it in 1832. " July 4, 1836, Congress passed the most important law in the history of patents, reorganizing the entire American system of grants, providing for an examination into the novelty and usefulness of inventions, and appropriated $108,000 of the money then standing to the credit of inventors, for the purpose of constructing a building for the exclusive use of the Patent Office. The original plans were made by William P. Elliott, formerly a draftsman in the office, for which he was paid $300. Robert Mills, the architect of the Treasury Department, was the constructing engineer. The secona story was designed as a vast museum or ' National Gallery ' for the display of models, . . . and the collection then in the possession of the Gov- ernment was the most interesting in the world. The original plans contemplated the building to be a Grecian-Doric structure, covering a public reservation of four acres which L' Enfant, the French engineer who planned the Federal capital, set apart for a ' national church.'" The imposing portico on the south wing (F Street front) was to be of magnificent proportions, and in designing the graceful columns at that entrance, the celebrated Parthenon at Athens was followed and the precise dimensions used. . . . Before any part of the building, however, was ready for occupancy, everything belong- ing to the Patent Office was, on the night of December 15, 1836, wiped out of existence by fire. There were destroyed 7,000 models, 168 volumes of records, 9,000 drawings, 10,000 original descriptions and specifications, 230 volumes belonging to the Scientific Library, and ... a volume of inestimable historical interest, containing drawings made by the inventor and engineer, Robert Fulton, illus- trating the machinery for making steam subservient to man's direction for purposes of navigation, and containing representations of his steamboat as she passed through the Highlands, when, in August, 1807, the successful trip up the Hudson to Albany was made. . . . After this fire the office found a temporary home at the residence of the commissioner, where the business was transacted until accommo- dations were offered by the city authorities in the city hall. Steps were taken at once to restore the records and models. Each patentee was personally addressed through the post office, and owing to the restriction enacted by Congress that no patent granted before the fire cc .Id be given in evidence without being first recorded anew, the return of the most important was secured. — Helen F. Shedd, C/iau- tauquan. May i, 1892. 88 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. The south wing of the building, of Virginia freestone and granite, 270 feet in length, was completed in the spring of 1840, at a cost of $422,000. The Patent Office staff then took possession, but set apart a room in the basement for a special exhibition of agricultural inven- tions, the seeds sent home from abroad, etc. To this were presently added the bequests and various curiosities collected by the " National Institute," and the great amount of valuable material brought home by the Wilkes and other exploring expeditions, which formed the nucleus of the National Museum and were taken, later, to the Smith- sonian Institution. These overflowed into the upper parts of the building, and everybody was crowded. In 1849, therefore. Congress appropriated $50,000 out of the patent fund as a starter, and three years later the east wing had been completed, built of Maryland marble, at a cost of $600,000, nearly half of which was taken from the earnings of the office. The west (Ninth Street) wing was next built of Maryland marble, between 1852 and 1856, at a cost of $750,000, and taken possession of by the General Land Office. In the same year the north granite wing was begun, and was completed in 1867 at a cost of $575,000. The total cost of the building was $2,347,011.65. It forms a hollow square, and is the most classical and beautiful domicile occupied by any executive department, but, unfortunately,. it is so hemmed in that it can not well be seen. The Hall of Models is still a spacious room on the main floor, but the removal of the historical relics to the National Museum (p. 103) and the fire of 1877, which destroyed 87,000 models and some 600,000 drawings, etc. , have left little worth looking at. The office has issued thus far about 500,000 patents, and its earnings have been far in excess of the cost of buildings and all expenses since its origin. The General Lajtd Office, which is charged wnth the survey, man- agement, and sale of the public domain, has quarters in this building, and the Ce^istis v^Si^ conducted in offices across the way (512 Ninth Street), connected with it by a bridge. The Indian Bureau, which has charge of all the Indians, reservations, schools, etc., resides in the top of the Atlantic Building on the south side of F Street, between Ninth and Tenth streets ; and the office of the Commissioner of Education is near by, at the northeast corner of Eighth and G Streets, where an extensive library of pedagogy is open to the inspection of teachers. The Geological Survey has fine offices in the Hooe Building, 1330 F Street. More or less affiliated with it is an advisory committee called the Board on Geographic Maine s. THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS, 89 authorized by Congress to consider and decide as to the proper form and spelling of all geographic terms, in order to make a uniform usage on the maps and charts and in the publications of the Govern- ment. The practical effect is to correct the usage of the whole country in this particular, by means of this board's occasional publi- cations which careful editors and writers follow. The only remain- ing and the most costly branch of the Interior Department is The Pension Bureau. This occupies an immense red brick build ing, 400 by 200 feet in dimensions and four stories high, standing in Judiciary Square, on G street, between Fourth and Fifth, and looking like a cotton factory without and a prison within. It has two gable roofs set crosswise and largely composed of glass, lighting the vast interior court. The structure is said to be fire-proof — a statement which caused General Sheridan to exclaim, "What a pity ! " A band of terra cotta, forming an ornamental frieze around the exterior of the building, just above the first story windows, portrays a procession of spirited marching figures of soldiers of the late war — horse, foot, and dragoons. This is the only artistic thing about the building, and is worthy of a better setting. The offices, however, are more commodious and comfortable than many in more ornate edifices, and open upon tiers of galleries that surround all sides of a great tiled court. This court is broken by two cross- rows of colossal columns and lofty arches sustaining the central part of the roof and painted in imitation of Sienna marble, while the lower gallery rests upon a colonnade of iron pillars, speckled counterfeits of Tennessee marble. The floor of 'the court is well filled with cases of drawers containing the papers of applicants for pensions, or an in- crease, so tidily arranged that the file of each man can be referred to without delay. It is very helpful, however, to know the registry number of the case, which is borne by every paper pertaining to it. The cases on file exceed a million ; about 967,000 beneficiaries are carried on the rolls, and the outlay of the bureau is now about $140,000,000 a year. Over 1,800 persons, one-sixth, of whom are women, are employed here, but room is left for offices for the Rail- road Commissioners on the third floor. The United States Pension Agency, where local pensioners are paid, is at No. 308 F Street. The spacious covered court of this building has been used on the last three occasions for the giving of the ifiaugiiral ball, which cus- tom decrees shall take place on the evening of the day each new President is ushered into office. In the early days, when the minuet, stiff brocades, and powdered hair were still fashionable, these were 90 HANDY &UIDE TO WASHINGTON. affairs as elegant and enjoyable as they were select and stately; but latterly the number of officials and their families properly entitled to attend such a semi-official function has become so great, and the crowd who are able to buy tickets is so much greater, that no system of restriction thus far devised has been successful in keeping this ball down to a manageable size. It is said that 17,000 persons were crushed into the court of the Pension Office Building at the inaugural ball of March 4, 1885, and the crowds since have prevented any dancing or other real enjoyment of the festivities, M'hich resulted only in injury to health, costly toilets, and the building. Hereafter these balls, if continued, will probably be held in the great " Conven- iion Hall " over the new market at New York Avenue and Fifth Street, which has been built for the accommodation of the large social, religious, and professional assemblages that more and more choose the capital as a periodical meeting place. Certain other branches of the Government, not under depart- ment control but responsible directly to Congress, may be briefly spoken of here. The Sniithsotiian hisiitution is the most important of these, and is elsewhere described in detail (p. loi). The Government Printing Office, whose chief is styled "the Public Printer," is the place where the Congressional Record, or report of the daily proceedings of Congress, is printed; also all the public and private bills and documents for Congress, the yearly departmental reports, and the enormous mass of miscellaneous pub- lications of the Government. It is located on North Capitol and H streets, 2,900 persons are employed during the congressional session and about 2,700 at other periods, and it is said to be the largest print- ing office in the world. The yearly cost aj^proaches $3,500,000. Everything connected with the making of books can be done there, and the highest degree of excellence in printing and binding is reached whenever it is called for. It is run tmder very systematic methods. No work is done by the piece, and the average wage of employes is $3.20 a day. The electrotyping division of the office is the finest in this country, every late improvement in machines and facilities being quickly adopted, if they are found to be practicable. In each one pf the executive departments there is a branch of the main office, which is used to do all small and confidential work of the department. Important serial publications manufactured are the Index Catalogue of the library of the Surgeon-General's office, U. S. Army, and the official record of the Union and Confederate armies and navies in the War of the Rebellion. Other important publications are the census reports, the blue book, and the reports of the Smithsonian Institution, Geological Survey, and Bureau of Ethnology. *Much very handsome illustrated work is done. That the various publications may be easily accessible to the people the ffrmu and «aVu ^ar ^ctcran^' Jurcau of information i^ /\ IVI r> it r\ IT O '^ ^^" want a Pension under the Old L/lJl lK/\UL^f or New Law, Back Pay, Bounty, or ^ ^ an Increase of Pension, RALLY AROUND YOUR OLD COMRADES, BUTTS & PHILLIPS, (Who were with you at the front from 1861 to 1865) SOLICITORS OF CLAIMS, Lenman BIdg., No. 1425 New York Ave., WASHINGTON, D..C. Branch Office: 13 Willoughby Street, BROOKLYN, N. Y. FRANK A. BUTTS. {ORIGINATOR AND LATE CHIEF, ARMY AND NAVY SURVIVORS' DIVISION, U. S. PENSION BUREAU.) LATE MAJOR 47th N. Y. VET. VOLS., 2d BRIG., 2d DIV., 10th A. C HENRY A. PHILLIPS. (LATE CHIEF MIDDLE DIVISION U. S. PENSION BUREAU.) LATE SERGEANT CO. D, 47th N. Y. VET. VOLS., 2d BRIG., 2d DIV., 10th A. C. If your claim has been rejected, or if you have been dropped from the rolls, or reduced, write to us. We are right on the ground, and can give your case personal attention. Send for our special blank for record of military or naval service to be left with your family for future reference. Special attention given to widows', dependent fathers' and mothers', brothers' and sisters', and minors' claims. CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. Call and see us when you visit Washington. THE EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS. 91 Public Printer issues montlily a catalogue of books that have been finished during the month, giving the price of each. It is estimated that an edition of 10,000 copies of a 2,000-page book can be pro- duced by the office in eight hours — type set, proof read, made up into pages, printed, folded, gathered, and covered. During the fiscal year ending June 30, 1895, the office used 4,547 tons of book, writing, plate, and ledger paper, and there were finished 1,787,473 volumes in cloth and leather bindings, and 1,182,955 pamphlets bound in paper, aside from the blank-book work used in all the department and pub- lic offices of the country. The Departinejit of Laboj', controlled by a commissioner, collects and publishes useful information on subjects connected with labor, promoting the material, social, intellectual, and moral prosperity of men and women who live by their daily earnings. It publishes an annual report, largely statistical. The office is in the National Safe Deposit Building at New York Avenue and Fifteenth Street. The Civil Service Commission makes and supervises all regula- tions and examinations respecting applicants for employment in the Government service in those classes under the civil service law. It has offices in the Concordia Building, Eighth and E streets. The service classified under the act embraces about 54,000 places, including the executive departments at Washington; the Depart- ment of Labor; the Civil Service Commission; the Fish Commission; thirty-three customs districts, in each of which there are twenty or more employes; 609 free-delivery post offices and the Railway Mail Service; the Indian School Service; the Weather Bureau- the Internal Revenue Service, and the Government Printing Office. The Inter-State Commerce G2;;zw/^j'/(^;z (Sun Building, No. 131 7 F Street) examines into the management of the business of all common carriers subject to the act of February 4, 1887, and has power and jurisdiction generally over Inter-State traffic. The Inter-Cotiti7iental Railway Commission has its office at No. 1429 New York Avenue. A Joiftt Commission of Congress to examine into the status of laws organizing the executive departments, and the Bureau of American Republics, whose purpose it is to promote trade, intelli- gence, and comity among all the American republics, have offices at No. 2 Jackson Place, at the southwest corner of Lafayette Square. The Venezuela BoitJidary Coimnission, engaged in investigating the disputed boundary between Venezuela and British Guiana, has offices in the Baltimore Sun Building, No. 131 7 F Street. VIII. FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. The Wasliing^toii Moimineiit. The dignity, symmetry, and towering height of Washington's character, as it now presents itself to the minds of his countrymen, are well exemplified in the majestic simplicity of his monument in Washington. This pure and glittering shaft, asking no aid from inscription or ornament, strikes up into heaven and leads the thought to a patriotism as spotless and a manhood as lofty as any American has attained to. It is the glory and grandeur of this superb monu- ment that it typifies and recalls not Washington the man, but Wash- ington the character. . It is really a monument to the American people in the name of their foremost representative. It is in itself a constantly beautiful object, intensified, unconsciously to the beholder, perhaps, by the symbolism and sentiment it involves. With every varying mood of the changing air and sky, or time of day, it assumes some new phase of interest to the eye. Now it is clear and firmagainst the blue — hard, sharp-edged, cold, near at hand; anon it withdraws and softens and seems to tremble in a lambent envel- ope of azure ether, or to swim in a golden mist as its shadow, like that of a mighty dial, marks the approach of sunset upon the green- sward that rolls eastward from its base. The most picturesque view of it, doubtless, is that from the east, where you may "com- pose " it in the distance of a picture, for which the trees and shrub- bery, winding roads and Norman towers, of the Smithsonian park form the most artistic of foregrounds. This monument is the realization of a popular movement for a national memorial to Washington which began before his death, so (92) J THE WASHINGTON MONUMENT. Silsby & Company (INCORPORATED Bankers • and • Brokers Metropolitan Bank Building 613 15th Street...Opposite the U. S. Treasury Washington, D. C. We buy and sell STOCKS ^^ BONDS ^^ . COTTON GRAIN and* PROVISIONS for Cash or on Margin at Liberal Rates Investment Securities a specialty DIRECT LEASED TELEGRAPH WIRES to NEW YORK and CHICAGO Long Distance Telephone No. 505 FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 93 that he was enabled to indicate his own preference for this site, and was expressed in a congressional resolution in 1799, which contem- plated an equestrian statue. The death of Washington revived the matter, and a bill appropriating f 150,000 for a mausoleum passed both houses, but was mislaid and not signed at the close of the session. The next Congress was made up of Washington's political opponents, and his monument was no more heard of until an associa- tion was formed, headed by the President of the United States ex-ojfficw, which undertook to retrieve what it considered a national disgrace, and raised a large sum of money for the purpose. This site was obtained, the corner-stone was laid with impressive cere- monies on the 4th of July, 1848, and the work progressed until the shaft had reached a height of 150 feet, when the funds gave out. The coming of the Civil War turned men's attention elsewhere, and it was only revived by the wave of patriotism developed by the Centennial year, under the influence of which Congress agreed to finish the shaft. To Gen. T. L. Casey, Chief of Engineers, U. S. A., was intrusted the task of enlarging and strengthening the founda- tions — a most difficult piece of engineering which he accomplished with consummate skill. These foundations are described as constructed of a mass of solid blue rock, 146 feet square. "The base of the shaft is 55 feet square, and the lower walls are 15 feet thick. At the five-hundred feet elevation, where the pyramidal top begins, the walls are only 18 inches thick and about 35 feet square. The inside of the walls, as far as they were constructed before the work was undertaken by the Government in 1878 — 150 feet from the base— is of blue granite, not laid in courses. From this point to within a short distance of the beginning of the top or roof, the inside of the walls is of regular courses of granite, corresponding with the courses of marble on the outside. For the top marble is entirely used. The marble blocks were cut or 'dressed' in the most careful manner, and laid in courses of two feet by .experienced and skillful workmen. There is no 'filling' or 'backing' between the granite and marble blocks, but they are all closely joined, the work being declared 'the best piece of masonry in the world.' By a plumb-line suspended from the top of the monument inside, not three-eighths of an inch deflection has been noticed. . . The keystone that binds the interior ribs of stone that support the marble facing of the pyramidal cap of the monument, weighs nearly five tons. It is 4 feet 6 inches high, and 3 feet 6 inches square at the top. . . . On the 6th day of December, 1884, the capstone, which completed the shaft, was set. The capstone is 5 feet 1^2. inches in height, and its base is somewhat more than 3 feet square. At its cap, or peak, it is five inches in diametei . On the cap was placed a tip or point of aluminum, a composition metal w^hich resembles polished silver, and which was selected because of its lightness and freedom from oxidation, and because it will alwa^-s remain bright." The original design, prepared by Robert Mills, contemplated a shaft of 600 feet in height, rising froni a colonnaded circular memorial hall, which was to contain statues of the nation's worthies 94 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON: and paintings of great scenes in its history, "while the crypt beneath would serve as a burial place for those whom the people should especially honor." This plan has been definitely abandoned. The monument is open to visitors from g.oo a. m. to 6.00 p. m, in the summer, and 5.30 p. m. in winter, with an intermission of an hour at noon. A staircase of 900 steps winds its way to the top, around an interior shaft of iron pillars, in which the elevator runs ; few people walk up, but-many descend that way, in order to examine more carefully the inscribed memorial blocks which are let into the interior wall at various places. Within the shaft formed by the interior iron framework runs an elevator, making a trip every half hour, and carrying, if need be, thirty persons. As this elevator and its ropes are of unusual strength, and were severely tested by use in elevating the stone required for the upper courses as the s.ructure progressed, its safety need not be suspected. The elevator is lighted by electricity and carries a telephone. Seven minutes are required for the ascent of 500 feet ; and one can see, as it passes, all the inscriptions and carvings sufficiently well to satisfy the curiosity of most persons, as none of these memorials have any artistic excellence. Several not embedded in the walls are shown in the National Museum. An officer in charge of the floor marshals visitors into the elevator, and another cares for the observatory floor at the top ; but no fees whatever are required or expected. The View from the eight small windows, which open through the pyramidon, or sloping summit of the obelisk, 517 feet above the ground, includes a circle of level country having a radius of from fifteen to twenty miles, and southwest extends still farther, for in clear weather the Blue Ridge is well defined in that direction. The Potomac is in sight from up near Chain Bridge down to far below Mount Vernon ; and the whole district lies unrolled beneath you like a map. To climb the Washington Monument is, therefore, an excellent method of beginning an intelligent survey of the capital, and of " getting one's bearings." Looking first towiij'd the north, the most compact part of the city is surveyed. At the very foot of the monument are the artificial Carp Ponds, so called because, years ago, the Fisheries Commission propagated European carp for distribution there. Beyond, in the center-foreground, are the grounds of the Executive Mansion, rising in a gentle slope to the White House. On its left stands the State, War, and Navy Building ; and to the left of that (and nearer) is the FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 95 marble front of the new Corcoran Art Gallery, on Seventeenth Street (p. 134), and beyond that is seen the old Octagon House, on a straight line with the Naval Observatory, conspicuous in white paint and yellow domes, three miles away amid the green hills beyond Georgetown. -Nearer the water than any of these is a large yellow house among the trees, and beside what looks like a ball-field — the Van Ness mansion. All that part of Washington was among the earliest to be built up, and among the first to fall into disrepute, mainly because of an unhealthiness which modern drainage has done away with, so that the prejudice is disappearing. That yellow house — the Vajt Ah^ss Mansion — now the field club-house of the Columbia Athletic Club (p. 138), was one of the first built in Washington. Close by it stood the humble cabin of ''David Burns — a cantankerous old Scot who owned a great many acres there, and would not come to terms with the District Commissioners until he was compelled to. He was made rich by the growth of the young city, and his only daughter was a very pretty girl named Marcia, wdio was wooed and won by a New York Congressman named John P. Van Ness. They married and after a while built this fine house, of which Latrobe was the architect, and surrounded it by a fine park, where Davie Burns' old cottage stood as it always had, and remained until it tumbled down in 1894. " In luxuriousness of appointments it had no equal in this country at the time it was built. It w^as the first house in which cold and hot water was carried to all the floors. The wine vaults were very extensive. It was in them that the conspirators intended to hide President Lincoln in 1865, when it was their purpose to kidnap instead of assassinate him. The drawing rooms were adorned with mantels of Italian marble by Thorwaldsen. ... In the cottage silk- worms were kept for some time, and from their cocoons a bridal dress was made for one of the daughters of John Tayloe." Mrs. Van Ness became so prominent in later life as a philanthropist that when she died she received a public funeral — the first and only woman ever so honored in Washington. The " Octagon House'" is another old and famous mansion, still in good preservation, though empty. It was begun in 1798 by Col. John Tayloe, the richest Virginian of his day (it is said that the gar- den still retains traces of " nigger-auction " blocks), and during the first quarter of this century the Octagon was ' ' the center of all that was most brilliant and refined in unofficial society. " The burning of the White House, in 1814, compelled President Madison to seek another home until it could be repaired, and he rented this one as his choice among several offered to him. " It was worthy of such occupants," remarks Mr. Hamlin in Scribner's Magazine for October, 1893: "The circular hall, marble-tiled, was heated by two picturesque stoves placed in small recesses in the wall. Another hall, beyond, opened into a large and lovely garden surrounded by a high , brick wall after the English fashion. To the right was a handsome draw- 96 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. mg room with a fine mantel still well preserved. To the left was the dining room, of equal size and beauty. A circular room over the hall, with windows to the lioor and a handsome fireplace, was President Madison's office. Here, on February i8, 1818, he signed the procla- mation of the Treaty of Ghent, formally closing the war with England." Another old house near there (southeast corner Twenty-first and F streets), built in 1802, is memorable as a center of entertainments, where every President from the elder Adams to Franklin Pierce has been seen. It was the home for half a century of Alfred Pleasanton, an official who first became prominent as private secretary to James Monroe, when he was Madison's Secretary of State. When the British raided Washington and the cabinet fled, Pleasanton stayed behind to save what he could of the records of the State Depart- ment, and succeeded in sending away twenty-two wagon loads of archives, including invaluable treaties, which wfere stored in a barn at Leesburg, Va. , for several weeks. At the last moment he tore from their frames, where they hung in Mr. Monroe's office, the original Declaration of Independence (p. 78) and Washington's first commis- sion. A son of this courageous official, born in this house, was Maj.- Gen. Alfred Pleasanton, Jr., one of the most brilliant Union cavalr}- leaders in the Civil War, who still lives in this city, but as a recluse. Connecticut Avenue is the street leading from the White House straight northwest to the boundary, where it breaks into the fashion- able suburban parks on Meridian Hill, at the left of which are the wooded vales of Rock Creek, near which the noble Anglican Cathedral is to arise. At the right of the White House is the Treasury, here seen to inclose two great courts. The lines of Seventeenth, Sixteenth, Fifteenth streets, and of Vermont Avenue, lead the eye across the most solid and fashionable northwest quarter of the city to the more thinly settled hill-districts, where are conspicuous the square tower of the Soldiers' Home (4^ miles), the lofty buildings of Howard Univer- sity, and, farther to the right and more distant, the halls of the Catho- lic University. For an account of these streets, see Chapter IX. The eastern outlook carries the picture around to the right, and embraces the valley of the Anacostia River, or eastern branch of the Potomac. Here the conspicuous object is the Capitol, one-and-a-half miles distant, whose true proportions and supreme size can now be well understood. Over its right wing appears the grand new Con- gressional Library, its gilt dome flashing back the rays of the sun, and setting it out sharply against the Maryland hills. Between the monument and the Capitol stretches the green Mall, with the grounds and buildings of the Agricultural Department nearest the observer; then the castellated towers of the Smithsonian, the low breadth of the The HOTEL PAGE Formerly Welcker's . . . 15th Street, N. W. Washington, D. C EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN PLANS. i — Centrally located, and convenient to all , — Executive Departments, and m\ — Only five minutes' walk from the White . — House and the Treasury. Under the same Majiagement as the U. S. Senate Restaurant. Theodore L. Page. FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 97 National Museum, the red, shapeless pile of the Army Medical Museum, and the small Fisheries building, leading the eye as far as Sixth Street, beyond which are open parks. Somewhat to the right, the course of the Pennsylvania Railroad, out Virginia Avenue, is seen as far as Garfield Park, where it disappears under the tunnel. This leads the eye to the broad current of the Anacostia, which can be overlooked as far up as the Navy Yard, and downward past the bridge to Anacostia, to where it joins the Potomac at Greenleaf's Point. The military barracks there (p. 141) can be seen; and this side of it, along the harbor branch of the Potomac, are the steamboat wharves. The view soiithwiwd is straight down the Potomac, far beyond the spires of Alexandria, six miles in an air line, to where it bends out of view around Cedar Point. Long Bridge, which has been built sixty years or more, is in the immediate foreground, and the railways leading to it can be traced. To the right, the eye sweeps over a wide area of the red Virginia hills, thickly crowned during the Civil War with fortifications, the sites of some of which may be discovered by the knowing, and covers the disastrous fields of Manassas off to the right on the level blue horizon. The western vieta continues this landscape of Virginia, and includes about three miles of the Potomac above Long Bridge. Close beneath the eye are the old and scattered houses of the southwest quarter, with the Van Ness homestead, and the hill crowned by the old Naval Observatory on ground where Washington meant to place his national university. Above that the current of the river is broken by Analostan, or Mason's Island, opposite the mouth of Rock Creek, beyond which are the crowded hilly streets of Georgetown, and the Aqueduct bridge, leading to Roslyn, on the southern bank. Then come the high banks which narrow and hide the river, and bear upon their crest the flashing basin of the distributing reservoir. Beyond it, over the city of Georgetown, are the beautiful wooded heights about Woodley, where President Cleveland had his summer home, and thousands of charming suburban houses are building. On the Virginia side of the river, the Arlington mansion appears some- what at the left, and three miles distant; more in front, and nearer, the National Cemetery embowered in trees; and behind it, the clus- tered quarters of Fort Myer (p. 147). The distance is a rolling, semi- wooded country, thickly sown with farms, hamlets, and villages, among which Fall's Church is alone conspicuous, and fading away 98 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. to a high level horizon; but when the air is clear, the eye can see and rejoice in the faint but distinct outlines of the turquoise-tinted Blue Ridge, far away in the southwest. Some Scientific Departments. The public institutions along the south side of The Mall, dealing in a large part of the scientific work of the nation, contain more to interest the stranger in Washington than any other, except the Capitol itself. They include the "Washington Monument, and there are good reasons for advising that the ascent of this should be the very first thing done by the visitor; the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, the Department of Agriculture, the National and Army Medical museums in the Smithsonian grounds, and the Fisheries Commission. It is a long day's task to make a satisfactory tour of these buildings; and the National Museum alone has material for unlimited time and study m many paths of knowledge. Let us begin with The Bureau of Engraving and Printing. — This is the name given to the Government's factory for designing, engraving, and printing its bonds, certificates, checks, notes, revenue and postage stamps, and many other official papers. It is under control of the, Treasury Department, and occupies a handsome brick building on Fourteenth Street, S. W., within five minutes' walk of the Washington Monu- ment. This is three stories high, 220 feet long by 135 feet wide, and was built in 1878 at a cost of $300,000. Visitors are received from ten to two o'clock, and wait in the reception room until an attendant (several women are assigned to this duty) is ready to conduct a party over the building, which is simply a crowded factory of high-class tech- nical work, the products of which have received the highest encomi- ums at several w^orld's fairs in Europe as well as in America. All of the engraving is done upon steel, the surface of which is soft enough to yield readily to the artist's graver. The engraved plate is then hardened, laid in a press, and a cylinder of soft steel is rolled across it, under sufficient pressure to indent its surface with an exact (reversed) duplicate of the original engraving. This cylinder (examples of which are exhibited) is now itself hardened, and then rolled, under great pressure,--over a flat plate of soft steel, which in turn receives an imprint of the engraved surface of the roller. This last plate, which is, of course, an exact reproduction of the original engraving, is then hardened and used to print from, while the original engraving is stored away in the vault. All of the engraving is done by hand, except the designs of intricate circles and curving endless lines, known as engine-turning, which adorns the borders of FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 99 bonds, and the faces of notes, etc., and which quite defies imitation. This is the work of an expensive and complicated machine. " The printing division," to quote Evans, who alludes to the mak- ing of notes — paper money — ' ' occupies the third floor and employs about five hundred persons. Six hundred printed sheets is the daily task allotted to each pressman, and as all imperfect sheets are rejected by the examiners and a record made of the number and pressman, much defective work will result in a speedy dismissal from the service. Steam power is not used for the presses, as it is found that the delicate nature of the work and the care required to obtain perfect impressions requires hand labor. Each pressman has a woman to assist him, her work being to place the sheet on the press and remove it when printed. After each impression the plate must be carefully cleaned and polished with whiting, then inked, and wiped to remove the superfluous ink. As the hand is the best medium that can be used for wiping the plate, the necessity of a clean-handed assistant to handle the paper is obvious. When they have received the first impression the sheets are carefully dried, and after some days are given to another set of pressmen, who print the other side. No one person is allowed to attend to more than one operation. . . . The workmen are separated from the public by a high wire screen, and are under the constant surveillance of watchmen stationed in all the rooms. Finally, before an^^one leaves the build- ing at the close of work, every printed sheet and piece of paper, and every plate and die must be accounted for," Just east of this bureau, occupying large grounds between Four- teenth and Twelfth streets, S. W., and reached from Pennsylvania Avenue by street-cars on both those streets, and from the Capitol by the Belt Line along Maryland Avenue and B Street, S. W., is the headquarters of The Department of Agriculture. — This popular department grew out of the special interest which early patent commissioners took in agricultural machinery, improvements, and the collection and distri- bution of seeds — a function that formed a large part of its work until 1895. It was gradually separated from, the Patent Office work, erected into a commissionership, and finally (1889) was given the rank of an executive department, the Secretary of Agriculture being the last-added cabinet officer. His office is in the fine building west of the Smithsonian grounds, and he has the help of an assistant sec- retary, to whom has been assigned the direction of the great amount of scientific work done, including the experiment stations and the studies of fibers, irrigation, and the department museum. The scope of the work is now very extended, including the study of diseases of live stock, and the control of the in.spection of import and export animals, cattle transportation, and meat ; a bureau of 100 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. statistics of crops, live stock, etc., at home and abroad; scientific investigations in forestry, botany, fruit culture, cultivation of textile plants, and diseases of trees, grains, vegetables, and plants ; studies of the injurious or beneficial relations to agriculture of insects, birds, and wild quadrupeds ; investigations as to roads and methods of irrigation ; chemical and microscopical laboratories, and a great num- ber of experiment stations, correspondents, and observers in various parts of this and other countries. The results of all these investiga- tions and experiments are liberally published, and in spite of a sneer now and then the people are satisfied that the $3,300,000 or so expend- ed annually by this department is a wise and profitable outlay. There is a museum in the building exhibiting excellent wax models of fruits, nuts, and natural foods of various kinds; and an especially full and interesting display of models showing the damage wrought by many kinds of insects injurious to trees and plants; also an attractive and instructive exhibit comprising a number of groups of mounted birds, ground-squirrels, gophers, and other mammals, in natural surroundings, each representing a chapter in the life history of the animal and showing its relation to agriculture. These were exhibited at the World's Columbian Exposition, at Chicago, in 1893, and excited admiration. The library and herbarium will interest botanists. The ordinary visitor, however, will prefer to remain out of doors, where years ago the care of Mr. Saunders made these grounds the best cultivated part of The Mall, and a practical example of ornamental gardening. The extensive g7'eeiihouses must also be visited; all are open at all reasonable hours and the palm-house is a particularly delightful place in a stormy winter's day. A tower in the garden, composed of slabs with their foot-thick bark from one of the giant trees (sequoia; of California, should not be neglected, for it represents the exact size of the huge tree, "Gen- eral Noble," from which the pieces were cut. One important branch of the department— namely, the Weather Bureau— is domiciled at the corner of M and Twenty-fourth streets. There may be seen the delicate instruments by which the changes of meteorological conditions are recorded, and the method of forecasting the weather for the ensuing forty-eight hours, which is based upon reports of local conditions telegraphed each night and morning from the observers in all parts of North America, whereupon orders to display appropriate signals are telegraphed to each office. The system grew up from the experiments of Gen. A. G. Myer, t.. .i.-^teMJt ^i!im^»^.r....~.*m^*^^m"' FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 101 Chief Signal-Officer, U. S. A. (p. 147), who invented the present sys- tem and conducted it under the authority of Congress (1870) as a part of the signal service of the army. Generals Hazen and A. W. Gree- ly, of Arctic fame, succeeded him and perfected the service, but in 1 89 1 it was transferred to the Department of Agriculture and placed in charge of a civilian "chief" appointed by the President. In addi- tion to the forecasting of storms, etc., the bureau has in hand the gauging and reporting of rivers; the maintenance and operation of seacoast telegraph lines, and the collection and transmission of marine intelligence for the benefit of commerce and navigation; the reporting of temperature afid rainfall conditions for the cotton interests, and a large amount of scientific study in respect to meteorology. The Smithsonian Institution and National Museum are reached by crossing Twelfth Street, S. W., and entering the spacious park. Near the gate stands a life-like statue of Joseph Henry, the first secretary of the Institution. It is of bronze, after a model by W. W. Story, and was erected by the regents in 1884. The Smithsoiiiaii Instittctio7i was constituted by an act of Con- gress to administer the bequest of his fortune made to the United States by James Smithson, a younger son of the English Duke of Northumberland, and a man of science, who died in 1829. In 1838 the legacy became available and was brought over in gold sover- eigns, which were recoined into American money, yielding $508,- 318.46. The language of this bequest was : I bequeath the whole of my property to the United States of America to found at Washington, under the name of the .Smithsonian Institution, an estab- lishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men. The acceptance of this trust is the only action of the kind ever taken by the nation, and the institution stands in a peculiar relation to the Government. It is composed of the President of the United States and the members of his cabinet, ex-ojfficio, a chancellor who is elected, and a secretary, who is the active administrator of its affairs. The business of the institution is managed by a board of regents, composed of the Vice-President and the Chief Justice of the United States, three Senators, three members of the House of Representa- tives, and six other eminent persons nominated by a joint resolution of the Senate and the House of Representatives. The immediate and primary object of the Smithsonian Institution, as above constituted, is to administer the fund, which has now increased to nearly $1,000,000, and in doing so it promotes the object of its founder thus: (i) In the increase of knowledge by original investigation and study, either in science or literature. (2) In the diffusion of this knowledge by publication everywhere, and especially by promoting an interchange of thought among those prominent in learning among all nations, through its correspondents. These embrace institutions or societies conspicuous in art, science, or literature throughout the world. Its publications are in three principal issues, namely : The 102 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. " Contributions to Knowledge," the " Miscellaneous Collections," and the "Annual Report." Numerous works are published annually by it, under one of these forms, and distributed to its principal cor- respondents. The original funds deposited in the United States Treasury at 6 per cent interest have been increased by later bequests. One such constitutes "The Hodgkins fund," and which is given for the especial purpose of " The increase and diffusion of more exact knowledge in regard to the nature and properties of atmospheric air in connection with the welfare of man "; this fund is also deposited in the Treasury of the United States. Other donations have been received and are administered for other specific purposes, the latest being a legacy from the late R, S. Avery of Washington, for special investigations in magnetism and electricity. There was early begun a system of international exchanges of correspondence and publications, which forms a sort of clearing house for the scientific world in its dealings with Americans ; and there is no civilized country or people on the globe where the institu- tion is not represented by its correspondents, who now number about 24,000. The immediate benefit to the institution itself has been in enabling it to build up a great scientific librar5^ now numbering 300,000 titles and mainly deposited in the Library of Congress. The Sviithsoiiian B nil ding, of Seneca brownstone, was planned by James Renwick, the architect whose best known work, perhaps, is St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York. It was completed in 1855. " Features selected from the Gothic and Romanesque styles are com- bined in its architecture, but its exterior, owing chiefly to the irregu- lar sky line, is very picturesque and pleasing." For the purposes of exhibition of specimens and laboratory work, however, the building is badly lighted, wasteful of space, and otherwise unsuitable. The eastern wing was for many years the home of Prof. Joseph Henry, the first secretary; but is now devoted to the offices of administration. The Smithsonian Institution has under its charge, but not at the expense of its own funds, certain bureaus which are sustained by annual appropriations. These are : The United States National Museum, the Bureau of International Exchanges, the Bureau of Ethnology, the National Zoological Park (p. 153), and the Astrophysi- cal Observatory. Of the National Museum and the Zoological Park, more extended notice will be found elsewhere. The Bt(?'eau of Et /mo logy is a branch of the work, under the direction of Maj. J. W. Powell, which studies the ethnology, history, languages, and customs of the American Indians, and publishes the results in annual reports and occasional bulletins. It has been the means of collecting a vast amount of important and interesting material illustrative of the FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 103 primitive natives of this continent ; and all this is deposited in the National Museum. The offices of this bureau are at 1330 F Street. The Astrophysical Observatory dates from 1891, and is under the personal direction of Prof. S. P. Langley, now the secretary of the Smithsonian Institution. Its purpose is to study how the heaven- ly bodies, and mainly the sun, affect the earth and man's wants on it; "how the sun's heat is distributed, and how, in fact, it affects not only the seasons and the farmers' crops but the whole system of living things on the earth," as unquestionably it does to a notable degree. This is the science of astrophysics; and its principal instru- ment thus far has been the spectroscope. The National Museum. — In no single respect, perhaps, has the progress of the American capital been more striking than in the history of the National Museum. Originating in a quantity of "curiosities" which had been given to the United States by foreign powers, or sent home by consuls and naval officers, old visitors to Washington remember it as a heterogeneous cabinet in the Patent Office (p. 87). In 1846 a step was taken toward something coherent and creditable, by an act of Congress establishing a National Muse- um, following the precedent of a dozen or more other nations ; but this intention took effect very slowly, though various exploring expeditions and embassies largely increased the bulk of the collec- tions, which, by and by, were trundled over to the Smithsonian building. The name National Museum, however, was rarely heard. Every- thing was addressed to the Smithsonian, and in popular parlance the collectors and naturalists were all " Smithsonian men." They went westward and northward and southward, and came back with carloads of Indian relics and modern implements of savagery, skins, shells, insects, minerals, fossils, skeletons, alcoholic preparations, herbaria, and note books — the last crammed with novel information. It was natural, therefore, that the Smithsonian regents should be made custodians of the national collections, and that the appropria- tions annually made by Congress for the support of the museum should be administered by them. Prof. Spencer F. Baird, who became secretary upon the death of Prof. Joseph Henry, took a most active interest in the development of the museum ; and he saw in the Centennial Exhibition a great opportunity for it. From the Govern- ment exhibit, which he was the means of making, and which was so much admired by everybody at Philadelphia, in 1876, dates the real starting point of the museum, except in zoology. The creditable showing then made, and clever persuasion on the part of its officers, secured to our collections the gift of nearly all the government exhibits of other countries, and gave us an enormous mass of novel 104 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. and most precious objects, representing resources and humanity- "from China to Peru." The work of the U. S. Fish Commission (greatly stimulated at that time) also produced large accessions, until the previously uneven zoological collection became balanced. This vast influx of material had been anticipated by the formulation of a scheme which proposed to make a museum that should comprehend all departments of human progress— mental, industrial, and artistic ; and Congress was so much impressed that it gave $250,000 for the construction of the present fire-proof building, which was nearly enough completed in the spring of 1881 to serve as the ball-room at the inauguration of President Garfield. This building stands with its northwestern corner almost touching the old Smithsonian, but is as different from that as a terrapin from a woodcock. The Norman architecture in brownstone of the older structure is strongly con- trasted in the low, tent-like expanse of red, blue, and cream-colored bricks, white stone, and glass of its new neighbor. The spacious halls, which surround the rotunda in the form of a Greek cross with its corners filled in, are floored with vari-colored marble and slate, are divided only by lines of arches and low partitions of glass cases, and are open above to the iron-work of the lofty roof. All is light, airy, and graceful. The main entrance is in the north front, and is surmounted by " an allegorical group of statuary, by C. Buberl of New York, repre- senting Columbia as the Patron of Science and Industry." Entering, you find yourself at once in the North Hall, with the statuary, plants, and fountain of the rotunda, making a pleasing picture in the dis- tance. This hall is crowded with cases containing personal relics of great men, and other historical objects. The " relics " include a large quantity of furniture, apparel, instru- ments, table-ware, documents, etc., which belonged to Washington ; many of them were taken from Arlington (p. 145), while many others were purchased, in 1S78, from the heirs of his favorite (adopted) daugh- ter, Nelly Custis, who became Mrs. Lewis and lived until 1852. Arti- cles that once belonged to Jefferson, Jackson, Franklin (especially his own hand printing press), and several other statesmen or comman- ders of note ; presents, medals, etc., given to naval officers, envoys, and other representatives of the Government, by foreign rulers, are shown in great numbers ; but all are well labeled and need here neither cataloguing nor description. A most brilliant and valuable cabinet is the collection of swords, presents, and testimonials of various kinds given to General Grant during the \var and in the course of his trip around the world. A large display of pottery and porcelain, illustrating its manufacture and characteristics, in China, JatDan, France (Sevres), England, North America, and elsewhere, occupies many cases; also a valuable series of lacquers. At the right of this hall is the Lecture Room, beyond which, in the northwest corner of the building, are the offices of the Director, FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 105 Dr. G. Brown Goode, and the library. The lecture room is sur- rounded by models representing the home life of the American Indians, and upon its walls are hung the Catlin Gallery of Indian paintings, made by George Catlin on the Upper Missouri plains between 1832 and 1840. On the left of the entrance hall is a room devoted to the various implements used in the fisheries, and beyond that an apartment where a great number and variety of models of boats and vessels, especially those used in the fisheries of all parts of the world, may be examined. Passing on into the Rotunda, the plaster model of Crawford's " Liberty," surmounting the dome of the Capitol, towers above the fountain-basin, and is surrounded by several other models of statues, the bronze or marble copies of which ornament the parks and build- ings of New York, Boston, etc. All these are fully labeled. The two great Haviland memorial vases here, whose value is estimated at $16,000, were presented by the great pottery firm of Haviland, in Limoges, France, and are the work of the artists Bracquemond and Delaplanche. One is entitled " 1776," and the other " 1876," and they are designed to be illustrative of the struggles through which this Republic has passed into prosperity. Beyond the rotunda are halls devoted to mammals, mounted by scientific taxidermists in a remarkably lifelike manner ; to skele- tons of existing and extinct animals ; and to geological specimens, minerals, ores, the building stones of the Union and representative fossils — a department in which the museum is extremely rich, as it is the depository of the United States Geological Survey. In the middle halls of the building are an extraordinary number of articles — with thousands more hidden away in store-rooms for lack of space to exhibit them — of the industrial arts of the world, and the life of its inhabitants in every climate, state of civilization, and condition of advancement. One hall is devoted wholly, for example, to costumes and textile fabrics of every sort. The lay figures wearing Hindoo, Persian, Japanese, American Indian and other costumes, were largely made for exhibition at the Columbian Exposition in Chicago. Where actual costumes are not available, figurines wearing a minia- ture of the native dress, casts of statuettes, and pictures are used to increase the range of illustration. The examples of the home life and arts of the Eskimo, among American savages, and of the Japanese, among foreign peoples, are particularly numerous and complete. Par- 106 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. ticular attention is called here to the series of fabrics, especially bask- ets, made from rushes, grass, split roots and the like, which is exceed- ingly instructive and beautiful. In another hall the arts, architecture, machinery, weapons, navigation, agricultural implements, tools, musi- cal instruments, etc., of the world are illustrated. Pottery forms a large and richly furnished department, ranging from rude wares taken from prehistoric graves to the finest product of Japan, China, India, England, and France. No other museum in the world has so large and complete a series illustrating the native American pottery; and those interested in the ceramic arts will pause a long time over the work of the Pueblo Indians of the Southwest. It would be quite impossible to mention in detail one in a hundred of the objects of artistic, historic, and scientific value in this overflowing museum; and equally useless to attempt to guide the visitor to their place, since the cases are continually being moved about to make room for important accessions. A considerable portion of the collections, indeed, remain in the old Smithsonian building and should not be neglected; they are open to the public from 9 to 4 o'clock. The halls on the ground floor there contain a splendid series of birds, the ornithological collections here being among the most extended and useful in the world. Colored prints from Audubon's original copper-plates hang upon the walls. A beautiful display of sea shells is another feature here, this being a sample of the conchological treasures of the museum, which include the most historic, typical, and valuable of American collections, con- taining many unique specimens and the representatives of hundreds of species first described from this material. The same remark would apply, however, to every other branch of zoology as represented in the National Museum. Some cases of plaster images of reptiles and fishes, cast from specimens frozen immediately after death and colored from nature, will call for examination and be pronounced, no doubt, far more lifelike than any method of preserving the skins of these scaly animals. The adjoining hall, at the west end, is filled with an extensive and very attractive display (highly instructive to artists as well as naturalists) of the invertebrate marine life of both the fresh waters and of the seas adjacent to the United States — sponges, corals, starfishes and other echinoderms, mollusks in wide and beautiful variety, crabs and their kin, and many other preservable representatives of the humbler inhabitants of the rivers and ocean. The upper floor is a single lofty hall filled to overflowing with FROM THE MONUMENT TO THE MUSEUMS. 107 collectiojis in anthropology, the handiwork of primitive and savage races of mankind, illustrating the development, art, and social econ- omy of uncivilized mankind, especially during the prehistoric stone age. The models and paintings of Arizona cliff-dwellings ought especially to be noticed. In the vestibule below are full-sized plaster models of the great circular calendar-stone of the Mexicans, and of the prehistoric Maya hieroglyphs from ruined buildings now over- grown by the forests of Yucatan. The Army Medical Museum occupies the handsome brick building in the southeast corner of the Smithsonian grounds, next to Seventh Street. This institution grew up after the war, out of the work of the Surgeon-General's office, and contains a great museum illustrating not only all the means and methods of military surgery, but all the diseases and casualties of war. This is a gruesome array of pre- served flesh and bones, affected by wounds or disease; or wax or plaster models of the effects of wounds or disease, which the average visitor could contemplate only with horror and dismay. This museum nevertheless is of the greatest interest and value to the medical and surgical profession, and comprises some 25,000 specimens. In the anatomical section there is a very large collection of human crania, ] and about 1,500 skeletons of American mammals. In the miscel- I laneous sections are the latest appliances for the treatment of diseases, all sorts of surgical instruments, and models of ambulances, hospitals, j etc. The Library is more pleasing and of even more wonderful value, being the most complete collection of medical and surgical literature \ in the world, surpassing that of the British Museum. Not the least j admirable part of it is the vast catalogue, which employed a staff of experts and printers a score of years, and is not yet quite completed; and which amounts to a bibliography of everything, large or small, valuable or worthless, that has ever been printed in any language on medical and surgical topics. The United States Fish Commission is the last place to be visited on this side of The Mall. It occupies the old ante-bellum arsenal on Sixth Street, from which that part of the park between Sixth and Seventh streets derives its name, Armory Square. Here, on the basement floor, can be seen various aquaria filled with growing plants I and inhabited by fishes, rare and common, and by quaint and pretty swimming and creeping things that dwell in the rivers and sea. The apparatus involved in various forms of fish-hatching can be examined, and perhaps the process may be watched in a series of tanks which 108 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. is often so employed. If it should happen that one of the railway cars, in which young fish are carried about the country for planting in inland waters, is standing in the yard, it would be worth the trouble to look at its arrangements. The upper floor of this building is devoted to the offices of the Fish Commissioner and his assistants. IX. HISTORIC AND PICTURESQUE WASHINGTON. Prominent Streets, Squares, and Residences. The only residence of the President of the United States, in , Washington , is the Executive Mansion; but that is rather more I uncomfortable than the average Washington house in midsummer, land all the later Presidents have been accustomed to seek a country jhome during hot weather. President Lincoln used to live in a cot- tage at the Soldiers' Home; President Grant spent one summer in (the same house, and President Hayes occupied it every summer dur- |ing his term. During his first term President Cleveland purchased a (Suburban home near Georgetown (p. 159), which he subsequently Isold ; but during his second term he rented and occupied another ^country house, " Woodley," in the same locality, and spent as much 'of his time there as he could. Vice-President Stevenson lives at the Normandie Hotel. The Secretary of State lives at No. 1640 Rhode Island Avenue ; the Secretary of the Treasury in his own house, No. 1426 K Street, and the Secretary of War at No. 1607 H Street. The Attorney-Gen- jCral lives at No. 1329 K Street ; the Postmaster-General at No. 1741 \Q Street ; the Secretary of the Navy at No. 1925 F Street ; the Sec- retary of the Interior at No. 1623 K Street, and the Secretary of Agriculture at The Portland. Mr. Chief Justice Fuller resides at No. 1800 Massachusetts Ave- jQue, Mr. Justice Field at No. 21 First Street, N. E. (p. 56), Mr. Justice Harlan on Meridian Hill, Mr. Justice Gray at No. 1601 I Street, Mr. Justice Brewer at No. 141 2 Massachusetts Avenue, Mr. Justice Brown at No. 1720 Sixteenth Street, Mr. Justice Shiras at No. 1515 Massa- 11 (109) 110 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. chusetts Avenue, Mr. Justice White at No. 1717 Rhode Island Ave- nue, and Mr. Justice Peckham at The Arlington. Lafayette Square was the name selected by Washington himself for the square in front of the Executive Mansion, for which he fore- saw great possibilities ; but it remained a bare parade ground, with an oval race course at its west end, until after the disastrous days of 1814. Then, when the White House had been rehabilitated, a begin- ning was made by President Jefferson, who cut off the ends down to the present limits (Madison Place and Jackson Place), and caused the trees to be planted. No doubt he had a voice in placing there, ir 1816, St. John's — the quaint Episcopal church on the northern sic^ — the first building on the square. Madison, certainly, was greati) interested in it, and it became a sort of court church, for all the Presidents attended w^orship there, as a matter of course, down to Lincoln's time, and President Arthur since. Its interior is very inter- esting. Lafayette Square is now, perhaps, the pleasantest place to sit on a summer morning or evening among all the out-door loitering places in this pleasant city. The trees have grown large, the shrubbery is handsome — particularly that pyramid of evergreens on the south side — and great care is taken with the flower beds; and finally, you may see all the world pass by, for this park is surrounded more or less remotely by the homes of the most distinguished persons in Washington. Two noteworthy statues belong to this park. One is the familiar equestrian statue of General and President Andrew Jackson, which is the work of Clark Mills, and probably pleases the populace more than any other statue in Washington, but is ridiculed by the critics, who liken it to a tin soldier balancing himself on a rocking-horse. It was cast at Bladensburg by Mills himself, who was given cannon captured in Jackson's campaigns for material, set up a furnace, and made the first successful large bronze casting in America. Another interesting fact about this statue is, that the center of gravity is so disposed, by throwing the weight into its hind quarters, that the horse stands poised upon its hind legs without any support or the aid of any rivets fastening it to the pedestal. This statue was erected in 1853, and unveiled on the thirty-eighth anniversary of the battle of New Orleans. Its cost was $50,000, part of which was paid by the Jackson Monument Association. The Me7no7'ial to Lafayette, in the southeast corner of the park, is a very different affair, and more in the nature of a monument erected by Congress to the services of the noble Frenchmen who lent us their assistance in the Revolutionary War. Upon a lofty and handsome pedestal stands a heroic bronze figure of the Marquis de Lafayette, in the uniform of a Continental general; while nearer the base, at the sides, are statues of Rochambeau and Duportail, of the THE LAFAYETTE MEMORIAL IN LAFAYETTE SQUARE HISTORIC AND PICTURESQUE WASHINGTON. Ill French army, and D'Estaing and De Grasse, of the navy. In front is "America " holding up a sword to Lafayette. This work is exceed- ingly vigorous, and is after models by two of the most eminent of modern French sculptors, Falguiere and Mercie. Total cost, 150,000. Starting at Pennsylvania Avenue and walking north on Madison Place (15K Street), the new Lafayette Square Opera House is immedi- ately encountered, standing upon a famous site. The tall, brick house which it displaced was originally built by Commodore Rogers, but soon became the elite boarding-house of Washington, and numbered among its guests John Adams; John C. Calhoun, the fiery South Carolinian, while Monroe's Secretary of War and Jackson's Vice- ' President; and Henry Clay, when he was Adams' Secretary of State. I Then it became the property of the Washington Club, and there assembled the rich and influential young men of the capital; Sickles and Key were both members, and the tragedy which associates their names took place in front of its door; later it became the residence of Secretary Seward, and there the deadly assault was made upon him by the assassin, Payne, at the time of the assassination of Lincoln in I 1865. Its next distinguished occupant was James G. Blaine, Secre- tary of State in the Harrison administration, and there he died, j The fine yellow colonial house next beyond, now the residence of ! Senator Don Camer6n, was formerly owned and occupied by Ogle • Tayloe, son of John Tayloe, of the Octagon house (p. 96) and Mount Airy, Va., who w^as in the early diplomatic service and one of the most accomplished Americans of his day. All of his rare and costly pictures, ornaments, and curios, including much that had belonged to Commodore Decatur, passed into possession of the Corcoran Art Gallery (p. 136). A later occupant was Admiral Paulding, a son of John Paulding, one of the captors of Andre, who suppressed Walker's filibusters in Nicaragua. Lily Hammersley, now dowager Duchess of Marlborough, was born there, and some of the most brilliant enter- tainments ever given in Washington have been under its roof. In the next two houses have lived Secretary Windom, Senator Fenton, and Robert G. Ingersoll. The gray, mastic-stuccoed house on the corner of H Street, now the Cosmos Club-house, has also known many celebrated characters. It was built about 1825 by Richard Cutts, the brother-in-law of the brilliant and versatile "Dolly" Madison, the wife of President Madison. It came into Mr. Madison's possession just before his death, some twenty years later, and thither his wife, no longer 112 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. young, but still beautiful and witty, held court during her declining years. After Mrs. Madison's death this house was occupied by such tenants as Attorney-General Crittenden; Senator William C. Preston, afterward a Confederate brigadier; and Commodore Wilkes, com- mander of the celebrated exploring expedition, who, in 1861, was required to take his quondam near neighbor, Slidell, from the British steamer Trent. He gave it up when the Civil War broke out, and was followed by Gen. George B. McClellan, who established here the headquarters of the Army of the Potomac. "A sight of frequent occurrence in those days," remarks Miss Lockwood, "was the General with his chief of staff. General Marcy, his aids. Count de Chartres and Comte de Paris, with Prince de Joinville at their side, in full military costume, mounted, ready to gallop off over the Potomac hills." Now its halls, remodeled and extended, are trodden by the feet of men the most famous in the country as the investiga- tors and developers of scientific truth. (See p. 115.) Diagonally opposite the Cosmos Club, facing the square on H Street, is the square brick Sumner house, now a part of the Arlington. "Where the main body of the Arlington Hotel now stands," we are told in a neat pamphlet issued by its proprietors, "there were three stately residences. One was occupied by William L. Marcy, Secretary of War under President Polk and Secretary of State under President Pierce; and, when he retired, he was succeeded in this and the adjoining house by the Secretary of State, under Buchanan, Lewis Cass, who, like Marcy, had previously held the war portfolio. In the third mansion, but recently superseded by the noble extension of the hotel up Vermont Avenue, dwelt Reverdy Johnson, minister to England; and there Presidents Buchanan and Harrison were entertained prior to their inauguration; and there Patti, Henry Irving, President Diaz of Mexico, King Kalakaua, Dom Pedro, and Boulanger found that luxurious seclusion which sovereigns and artists seek." The great double mansion adjoining the Sumner and Pomeroy residence (united as the H -Street front of the hotel) was built by Matthew St. Clair Clarke, long Clerk of the House of Representatives, and afterward became the British Legation. Here lived Sir Bulwer Lytton and his not less famous son and secretary, "Owen Meredith," now Lord Lytton, who is supposed to have written here his most celebrated poem, "Lucile." In later years the house was occupied by Lord Ashburton, who, with Daniel Webster, drafted the "Ashburton treaty" which defined our Canadian boundary. A still later occupant was John Nelson, Attorney-General in Tyler's cabinet; and it is now HISTORIC AND PICTURESQUE WASHINGTON. 113 the home of Mrs. Margaret Freeman. On the corner of Sixteenth Street is St. John's Episcopal Church; and, passing for the present other newer residences, another old landmark calls for special atten- tion. This is the Decatur House, facing the square on Seventeenth Street, at the corner of H, and easily recognized by its pyramidal slate roof. This, which was the first private residence on the square, was constructed at the close of the War of 1812 by Commander Stephen Decatur, the hero of Tripoli, and one of the most popular men of the time. He was the author of the maxim — more patriotic than righteous — uttered as a toast: "My country — may she always be right; but my country, right or wrong ! " His house was adorned Jwith a multitude of trophies, gifts from foreign rulers, and rare iknickknacks picked up in all parts of the world; and here he was brought to die after his duel with Commodore Barron in Bladensburg in 1820. Afterward it was occupied by the Russian minister, and then by Henry Clay, when he was Secretary of State under John Quincy Adams. When Martin Van Buren succeeded him, he took this house and cut the window in the south wall, in order that he might see the signals displayed from the White House by ' ' Old Hickory," whom he worshiped. He in turn gave up the house to his successor, Edward Livingston, a brother of Chancellor Robert Livingston of New York, whose wafe was that Madame Moreau whose wedding in New Orleans was so romantic, and whose daughter Cora was the reigning belle of Jackson's administration, as this house was its social center. Two or three foreign ministers and several eminent citizens filled it in succession, and gave brilliant parties at which Presidents were guests, the most recent of whom was Gen. E. F. Beale, under whose grandfather Decatur had served as midshipman. General Beale died in 1894, and his widow now dwells in this storied old mansion. A few rods south, next the alley, is another house famous in the past. It is one of the navy traditions that it was built by Doctor Ewell of that service, and occupied by three Secretaries of the Navy, one of whom was the talented Levi Woodbury; then it was the home of Senator Rives of Virginia, grandfather of the novelist, Amelie Rives (Chanler), and afterward of Gen. Daniel Sickles, whose tragedy is indelibly associated with this beautiful locality. Vice-President Colfax was a still later tenant, and then the house passed into pos- session of the late Washington McLean, editor of the Cincinnati Enquirer. 114 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. In this same row, No. 22, the former residence of William M. Marcy, Secretary of War, and afterward Secretary of State (i853-'57), is now the home of Mrs. R. H. Townsend, daughter of the late William L. Scott, of Erie, Pa. Gen. J. G. Parke, who commanded the Fifth Army Corps, and was chief -of-staff to Burnside, resides in No. 16; and No. 6 is the residence of Mrs. Martha Reed, sister of the late Admiral Dahlgren. Lovers of trees will take notice of the row of Chinese gingko trees, which shade the sidewalk opposite this row of houses, on the western margin of the square. Fourteenth Street and Franklin Square. Fourteenth Street is the great north-and-south line of travel, extending far out into the high northern suburb of Mount Pleasant. Numerous cars run upon it, and it passes Franklin Square and Thomas Circle. Fra7iklin Square, betw^een Fourteenth and Thirteenth, and I and K streets, comprises about four acres, densely shaded, and is a favorite place of resort in summer evenings. In its center is the spring of excellent water from which the White House is supplied, and where there is a public drink- ing fountain. The Franklin school-house overlooks the square on the east, and the Hamilton and Cochran hotels are just above it on Four- teenth Street. The church on the next corner (L Street) is All Souls (Unitarian), diagonally opposite which is The Portland. This brings you to Thomas Circle, in the center of which is J. Q. A. Ward's eques- trian bronze statue of Gen, George H. Thomas, the " Rock of Chickamauga" and hero of Nashville. This statue was erected, with great ceremony, in 1879, by the Societ}^ of the Army of the Cumberland, which paid $40,000 for the design and the casting (in Philadelphia). The pedestal, which bears the bronze insignia of the Army of -the Cumberland, and its orna- mental lamps were furnished by Congress, at an expense of $25,000. The statue is itself nineteen feet in height, and is finely modeled; but many admirers of this sturdy unassuming commander regret that in his representation there is not more ina7i and less horse. Northwest of Thomas Circle, in front of Lutheran Memorial Church, stands one of the most artistic statues in the city, erected by the Lutheran Church of America to Martin Luther. It was cast in Germany from the same molds as Rietschel's center-piece of the cele- brated memorial at Wurms, and expresses the indomitable attitude of the great reformer on all questions of conscience. This statue is eleven feet in height and cost $10,000. Fourteenth Street above this point has nothing of special interest, but is a handsome and busy highway; and its extension on the ele- STATUE OF MAJOR-GENERAL GEORGE H. THOMAS. HIS TORIC A ND PICTURESQ UE WA SHING TON. 1 15 vated ground of Meridian Hill, north of the city boundary, is rapidly being settled upon by important people. The gray stone castle sur- rounded by large grounds, at the foot of the hill on the right, is called •'Belmont,"and belongs to A. L. Barber, owner of the Trinidad asphalt mines. Mrs. General Logan lives at Calumet Place, two blocks east, on the street north of " Belmont," where she has a cabinet of relics of her famous husband, which is frequently visited by veterans of the war. Mr. Justice Harlan, of the Supreme Court, resides on the oppo- site side of the street, two blocks north, at the corner of Euclid Place. The Chinese Legation occupies a row of four brownstone houses on the crest of the hill (No. 2703), and can be distinguished by the 1 yellow flag, bearing a dragon in black, which always floats from the tower. Beyond it are other fine estates and beautiful roads. Following H Street from Fourteenth westward. No. 1404, now known as the Elsmere Hotel, was for many years the residence of the Jate Zachariah Chandler; No. 1411 was the residence of the late Justice I William Strong, of the Supreme Court, and No. 1405 is the parish house ! of old St. Matthew's Church, on the corner of Fifteenth Street, I recently abandoned for a more modern and commodious structure on i Rhode Island Avenue. The magnificent Shoreham Hotel (p. 11), ' Wormley's (now closed), and the Columbian University occupy the ' other corners. I The Columbian Ujiiversity is one of the oldest and best-equipped I schools of higher learning at the capital. It has a preparatory I school and departments of undergraduate and postgraduate aca- I demic studies; special courses in science (Corcoran Scientific School); \ of medicine and dentistry; and of law. Its endowments now amount I to about $1,000,000, and its faculty and list of lecturers include a large number of men in public life, from certain justices of the , Supreme Court down. This is particularly true of the Corcoran i Scientific School, where the lecturers are all men identified with I special investigations at the Smithsonian, Geological Survey, or in j some of the technical branches of the Army or Navy. This univer- j sity, which was aided at the beginning by the Government, has I always had access to and made great use of the libraries and museums J which abound here and are of so great educational value. Continuing our notes westward along H Street: Gen. Chauncey I McKeever, U. S. A., lives at No. 1508, and on the left-hand corner, 1 at Madison Place, is the Cosmos Club. ^ The Cosmos Club is a social club of men interested in science, of I whom Washington now contains a greater number and, on the aver- age, a higher grade than any other city. This is due to the employ- \ mentand encouragement given by the Smithsonian Institution, Agri- 116 HANDY G UIDE TO WA SHING TON. cultural Department, Geological and Coast surveys, Fish Commis- sion, Naval Observatory, technical dei3artments of the Treasury, "War, and Navy departments, and two or three universities. This club may therefore be considered the intellectual center of the non- political life of the capital, and at any one of its delightful Monday evenings, half a hundred men of high attainments and wide reputation may be seen, and the conversation heard is, in its way, as interest- ing and inspiring as anything to be listened to in the land. The historic old house (p. iii) has been somewhat modified, chiefly by the addition of a large hall, which may be shut off from the remain- ing rooms and used as a meeting room; and there the Philosophical, Biological, Geographic, and kindred societies hold their meetings on stated evenings. The Arlington Hotel, including the former residences of Senators Sumner and Pomeroy, is diagonally opposite the Cosmos; and next beyond is the " Bulwer House," and then St. John's Episcopal Church. All these face Lafayette Square and have been elsewhere described (p. no). On the farther corner of Sixteenth Street, opposite St. John's, is the beautiful home of Col. John Hay, the author of " Little Breeches" and other poems, and the co-biographer, with Mr. Nicolay, of the principal biography of Lincoln. The yellow house, No. 1607, next beyond, was built and for many years occupied by Com. Richard Stockton, who added to a glorious naval record, in the Medi- terranean and West Indies, the establishment of American rule in California in 1845. Later it was tenanted by Slidell, who, with Mason, was sent by the Confederate government to England as a commissioner, but was captured on the Trent by his quondam neighbor, Commodore Wilkes, who then lived in the present home of the Cosmos Club. It is now the residence of Mr. Lamont, Secretary of War. The adjoining house on the corner of Seventeenth Street — which was for many years the residence of the late W. W. Corcoran, the philanthropic banker, to whom the city owes the Corcoran Gal- lery (p. 134), the Louise Home (p. 121), and other enterprises and bene- factions, and which is now occupied by Senator Calvin S. Brice — is another of the famous homes of old Washington, and has been the residence of several men of note, including Daniel Webster, the British Minister, Lord Lyons, and a French Minister, M. Montholon. Crossing Connecticut Avenue, the corner house is that of Admiral Shubrick, opposite which (on Seventeenth), facing the Square, is the ancient Decatur House (p. 113). Next beyond, No. 1621 H Street, is the residence of Judge J. C. Bancroft Davis, the diplomat, now reporter of the Supreme Court. In the old-fashioned square house adjoining it, HISTORIC AND PTCTUJiESQUE WASHINGTON. 117 to the west, George Bancroft spent the last twenty years of his life, and completed his History of the United States. The Richmond, on the corner of Seventeenth Street, is a popular family hotel. The Albany, on the other side, is an apartment house for gentlemen ; and on the southwest corner is the Metropolitan Club, the largest, wealthi- est, and most fashionable club in Washington, one rule of which is, that members of the foreign diplomatic service, resident in Washing- ton, are ex-ojfficio members of the club, and need only pay stipulated dues in order to take advantage of its privileges. This block on H Street between Seventeenth and Eighteenth streets is familiarly known as the Midway Plaisance. Adjoining the Metropolitan Club are club chambers for gentlemen, and the large yellow house, next westward, was the home of Admiral Porter of the United States Navy. It is now the French Embassy, Nearly opposite, at No. 1710, is the Washington Club, an exclusive organization of fashionable ladies. The Milton and Everett are family apartment houses; and No. 1739 is the residence of William A. Richardson, formerly Secretary of the Treasury, and now Chief Justice of the Court of Claims. In this neighborhood dwelt many old Washington families and some modern notabilities. The Everett house, on the southeast corner of Eighteenth and G, is historic. It was built and occupied by Edward Everett of Massachusetts, when Secretary of State under Fillmore. Afterward it was the home of Jefferson Davis, when Secretary of War, after his marriage with his second wife. He continued there during his term as Secretary of State, but not after he returned to the Senate. His successor in the house was another traitor in high place, Jacob Thompson, Buchanan's Secretary of the Interior, who became a member of the Confederate cabinet in 1861. Then followed Capt. Henry A. Wise, a well-known, officer of the navy, after whom the medical department of the navy used the house for many years. The Wirt house is a few rods to the east of the Edward Everett house, on G, between Seventeenth and Eighteenth, on the south side. It is so called because that eminent jurist lived here twelve years, during the administrations of Monroe and J. Q. Adams. Miss Lockwood tells us that it is not known who built the house, but that it was occupied at the beginning of the century by Washington's private secretary. Col. Tobias Lear, a Revolutionary officer, who was the commissioner that concluded the peace with Tripoh. Wirt was United States Attorney-General from 181 7. to 1829. His gardens 118 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. were large and beautiful, for his wife was exceedingly fond of flowers and was the author of " Flora's Dictionary." The most bril- liant entertainments of that day were given here, until Jackson's time, when it was sold and occupied later by a succession of cabinet officers and high functionaries, one of whom gave a dinner to the Prince of Wales under its roof. During or after the war it became the office of the Army Signal Corps; and there the present weather service was developed. The present chief signal officer, weather expert, and Arctic explorer, Gen. A. W. Greely, resides near, at No. 1914 G Street, and General Miles, commanding the army, at No. 1927. Doctor Ham- mond, ex-surgeon-general of the army, lives on Fifteenth Street extended, where he has a large mansion called " Belcourt." Going westward on I Street from Fourteenth Street the first house on the right is owned and occupied by John W. Foster, the diplomat, who was Secretary of State under Harrison and, later, advisory counsel to China in her settlement with Japan. The large brick house adjoining is the Mexican Legation. Chief Justice Waite lived in the house beyond the alley, now occupied by the widow of ex-Governor Swann. The brownstone mansion at No. 1419 is the resi- dence of John W. Thompson, president of the National Metropolitan Bank. Senator Chandler of New Hampshire lives in No. 142 1, once the residence of Caleb Cushing. The southeast corner of Fifteenth and I streets is John Chamberlin's hotel, which occupies three houses that formerly belonged to Fernando" Wood, ex-Governor Swann of Maryland (who placed in one of them two Thorwaldsen mantels from the Van Ness mansion), and James G. Blaine, who lived there when Speaker of the House of Representatives. Number 819 Fifteenth Street is occupied by Gen. Stewart Van Vleit, U. S. A. Opposite Chamberlin's, on the southwest corner (No. 1500 I Street), Hamilton Fish lived when he was Secretary of State, and it is now the residence of John McLean of the Cincinnati Eiigtdrer. These houses face upon McPherso7i Square, one of the most finished of the city's smaller parks. The noble equestrian statue that graces this square was erected by the Army of the Tennessee to its commander, James B. McPher- son, who was killed at Atlanta; and it was his successor, Gen. John A. Logan, who made the dedicatory oration, when, amid a great military display, this statue was unveiled in 1876. The sculptor was Louis T. Robisso, and the statue was composed of cannon captured in Georgia. The cost was about $50,000. Many fine residences and hotels face this square, and Vermont Avenue passes through it toward the northeast. La Normandie Hotel |S a new house situated in the fashionable West End, opposite McPherson Square, within two blocks of the White House, Treasury, and State, War and Navy Depart- ments. All the latest improvements in sanitary plumbing, ventilation, heating, and incan- descent electric lighting have been adopted. The house is exceptionally well finished and furnished, and is, without doubt, the best Hotel in Washington. A special feature is made of the cuisine and service. Rooms are arranged either singly or in suites of parlor, bath-room, and as many bedrooms as desired. HORACE M. CAKE, PROPRIETOR. HISTORIC AND PICTURESQUE WASHINGTON. 119 Continuing westward, No. 1535 H Street is the residence of pjames G. Berret, who was mayor of Washington during the late jWar. Mr. Justice Gray lives in No. 1601; No. 1600 is the home of JMrs. Tuckerman, the widow of a New York banker; No. 161 7 was the residence of the late George W.. Riggs, and is now occupied by his daughters; No. 1701 is the University Club; No. 1707 is the residence of Mrs. Stanley Matthews; Paymaster-General Watmough of the navy lives in No. 1711, and John A. Kasson in No. 1726. Number 1731 is a famous house, having been occupied by Mr. Frelinghuysen when he was Secretary of State; William C. Whitney, Cleveland's first Secre- 5bary of the Navy, and John Wanamaker, when he was Postmaster- General; it is now owned and occupied by S. S. Rowland, a son- in-law of the late August Belm.ont. In No. 1739, at the corner of Eighteenth Street, resides Harriet Lane Johnson, who presided at f;he White House during the Buchanan administration. Gen. T. H. Rucker, U. S. A., a prominent officer in the Civil War, and father of the widow of General Sheridan, lives at No. 2005; Admiral Self ridge dwells at No. 2013; Gen, Robert Macfeely, U. S. A., at No. 2015; nd Prof. Cleveland Abbe, the meteorologist, at No. 2018. Following K Street westward from Twelfth Street, the first noiise on the southwest corner is the parsonage of the New York Avenue Presbyterian Church, occupied by the Rev. Mr. Radcliffe. In No. 1205 resides A. S. Soloman, the almoner of Baron Hirsch, the Jewish philanthropist. Number 130J was once the residence of Ros- |:oe Conkling; No. 13 11 was built by Ben Holliday, who operated the pony express across the continent for many years before the con- struction of the Union Pacific Railway; No. 1313 was formerly the home of Robert G. Ingersoll; Senator John Sherman lives at No. [1321; and No. 1325 was, during the war, the residence of Secretary lEdwin M. Stanton; Secretary Carlisle lives at 1426; Admiral Worden, the commander of the Mojiitor during her fight with the MerrimaCy 'dwells at No. 1428, and Senator Gorman at No. 1432. The large pouse at the corner of Vermont Avenue and K Street is occupied by JGrosvenor P. Lowrey, a patent lawyer, and the brownstone front Adjoining was built by ex-Senator Palmer of Michigan. Repre- sentative Hitt of Illinois lives at No. 1507; Mrs. B. H. Warder at No. 515; and the new yellow house near the corner of Sixteenth Street s the home of the widow of George W. Childs of Philadelphia. The ouse at the southeast corner of K and Sixteenth streets, another of Lichardson's productions, is occupied by the widow of Nicholas 12 120 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. Anderson of Cincinnati. Representative Draper of Massachusetts lives in No. 1601; Mr. Bissell, formerly Postmaster-General, in No. 1609; the Rev. Doctor McKim, rector of Epiphany Church, at No. 1621; Senator Matthew Quay in No. 1620; Hoke Smith, Secretary of the Interior, in No. 1623; Jerome Bonaparte, a great grand-nephew of Napoleon, in No. 1627; Senator Murphy of New York in No. 1701; and Titian J. Coffey, an ex-Secretary of the Navy, lives in No. 1713. "Little Lord Faun tleroy " was written in the house at No. 1730, which was then the residence of Doctor Swan M. and Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett — the former a distinguished oculist, and the latter the well-known novelist; but their present home is at No. 1770 Mas- sachusetts Avenue. Sixteenth Street which starts from Lafayette Square, opposite the White House, is sometimes known as Executive Avenue, and Congress has been importuned to legalize that name, St. John's Church is on the right, at the corner of H Street, and the residence of Mr. John Hay on the left. At the northwest corner of I Street Mr. Justice Gray of the Supreme Court resides, and back of him is The Arno, a fashionable family hotel. No. 930 is the home of Maj. George M. Wheeler, U. S. A., who conducted the " surveys west of the looth meridian " with which his name is identified. Senator Hale of Maine lives at No. looi; Surgeon-General Sternberg, of the army, at No. 1019; Senator Proctor of Vermont at the northeast cor- ner of L Street, and E. F. Andrews, the artist, at No. 1232. Passing Scott Circle (p. 121), Representative Huff of Pennsylvania resides at No. 1323; the Rev. Alex. Mackay-Smith, rector of St. John's Church, at No. 1325; ex-Representative Bourke Cockran at No. 1333; W. G. Gurley, a Washington banker, at No. 1401 ; Mr. Justice Brown of the Supreme Court at No. 1720; Gen. Rufus Saxton, U. S. A., at No. 1821, and Senator Irby of South Carolina at No. 192 1. The conspicuous brownstone " castle " on high ground at the end of Sixteenth Street, on the left, is the home of ex-Senator Henderson of Missouri. Massachusetts Avenue is one of the finest streets in the city, and a great promenade. It stretches parallel with Pennsylvania Avenue from Hospital Square (p. 58), on the Anacostia River, north- westward through Lincoln Square (p. 58), Stanton Square (p. 57), Mount Vernon Square — a pretty little park where New York Avenue crosses Eighth and K streets, three blocks north of the Patent Office— Thomas Circle (p. 114), Scott Circle (p. 121), Dupont Circle (p. 124), and Decatur Circle, where it bends slightly and is extended STATUE OF GENERAL WINFIELD S. SCOTT IirS TORIC AND PICTURESQ UE IVA SHING TON. 121 through the elegant suburb on the banks of Rock Creek, and so out to the hilly region north of Georgetown. An excellent view of this stately boulevard can be obtained at its junction with Twelfth Street, which is one of the highest points in Washington. i*^*C§cension Epis- copal Church fills the northwest corner at this crossing. Robert Hinkley, the artist, lives 'in No. 1310 ; Mr. Justice Morris, of the District Supreme Court, in No. 1314 ; J. Stanley-Brown, private secre- tary of the late President Garfield, and " Molly" Garfield, his wife, in No. 13 18. Mr. E. Francis Riggs resides at No. 131 1, and the widow of Admiral Dahlgren in No. 1325 ; No. 1330 is the Legation of Chile, and the large square house at the junction of M Street and Vermont Avenue, facing Thomas Circle, is the home of ex-Justice Wiley, of the District Supreme Court. Mr. Justice Brewer lives at No. 1412, Senator CuUom at No. 141 3, the widow of Mr. Justice Miller at No. 141 5, S. H. Kauffman, proprietor of The Evening Star, at No. 1421 , Senator Davis, of Minnesota, at No. 1428. The large red- brick house. No. 1435, is the German Embassy. The brownstone building surrounded by large grounds, on the south side of Massachu- setts Avenue, between Fifteenth and Sixteenth streets, is the Lota's e Houie^ It was founded by the late W. W. Corcoran, and nearly all its inmates are widows of ex-Confederate officers belonging to the aristocracy of the South, who lost their fortunes during the war. Nearly opposite it was the home of the late Prof. Spencer F. Baird, long United States Fish Commissioner and Secretary of the Smith- sonian Institution. The familiar name for Scott Circle, the locality around the statue of General Scott, at the junction of Massachusetts and Rhode Island avenues. Sixteenth and N streets, is "Calamity Circle," because every person who built a house there died shortly afterward, or was visited with some misfortune. This equestrian statue of Gen. Winfield Scott, the victor in the Mexican War, was erected in 1874. "It was modeled by H. K. Brown, and cast in Philadelphia from cannon captured in Mexico. Its total height is fifteen feet, and its cost was $20,000. The pedestal is of granite from Cape Ann quarries, and is composed of five huge blocks, said to be the largest ever quarried in the United States. The cost of the pedestal was about $25,000. General Scott is repre- sented in the uniform of his rank as Lieutenant-General." The large house at the junction of N Street and Massachusetts Avenue belongs to Paymaster Cutter, of the navy. The mansion to the northward, between N Street and Rhode Island Avenue, was erected by Prof. Alex. Graham Bell, inventor of the telephone, 122 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. and after several years was sold to Levi P. Morton, who occupied it while he was Vice-President. The square brick house at the north- east corner of Sixteenth Street was built by Senator Cameron, of Pennsylvania, and sold to Mr. D. P. Morgan, a New York banker, whose widow and family still reside there. On the opposite side of Sixteenth Street the late William Windom lived while he was a Sen- ator from Minnesota and Secretary of the Treasury ; it is- now owned and occupied by Charles A. Munn, formerly of Chicago. The house adjoining, which belongs to Stilson Hutchins, a well-known writer, is usually rented by one of the foreign legations. E. Kurtz Johnson, a banker, built and died in the house at the western corner of N Street. Continuing westward on Massachusetts Avenue, Mr. Spofford, the Librarian of Congress, lives at No. 1621; No. 1623 is the Nicaragua Legation, and No. 1627 is the residence of the widow of the late Senator Vance, of North Carolina. Bishop Hurst, of the Methodist church, resides in No. 1701; Thomas Nelson Page, the author of " Marse Chan" and many other stories, in No. 1708; Beriah Wilkins, of the Washington Post, in No. 1709; Senator Lodge, of Massachusetts, in No. 1765. Number 1770 belongs to Doctor Burnett (p. 120), and Chief Justice Fuller lives in No. 1800, at the corner of Eighteenth Street. The castellated house opposite belongs to the widow of the late Belden Noble. The little church on the triangle is the property of the estate of the late Senator Van Wyck, of Nebraska; it has been occupied alternately by the Episcopalians and by the li Swedenborgians, and Mr. Van Wyck used it as a dwelling for some ^| time before his death. The large mansion of fire-brick on P Street, back of it, is occupied by William J. Boardman, of Cleveland, Ohio. Passing beyond Dupont Circle (p. 121), No. 1915, adjoining " Stewart Castle," is the residence of Paymaster Michler, of the navy, and on the corner opposite lived for many years the late Mrs. Craig Wads- worth, who was a leader of Washington society; No. 2013 is the resi- dence 01 Charles M. Ffoulke, and the hall which adjoins it on the east was built to exhibit his collection of tapestries, which is one of the finest in the world. On the opposite side of the street, m the rear of the Blaine house (p. 124), Miss Grace Denio Litchfield, the novel- ist, resides. Number 2100 is the residence of B. H. Warner, a Washington banker, and the large mansion at No. 2122 was erected by the late Mrs. Patton, who inherited a fortune gained by her husband in the mines of Nevada; it is now occupied by her foui daughters. No. 2111, on the opposite side of the street, was erected I HISTORIC AND PICTURESQUE WASHINGTON. 123 by ex-Senator Edmunds, of Vermont, and was sold by him in 1895 to the widow of General Grant, who now resides there with her daughter, Mrs. Nellie Sartoris. The gray house to the westward is the residence of Curtis J. Hillyer. Connecticut Avenue, from H Street to the boundary, is the Sun- day afternoon promenade. Starting northward upon our survey at Lafayette Square, where the gardens of the Webster house (p. 121) fill the corner at the right. No. 814 was the residence, after the Civil War, of Admiral Wilkes (p. 112), and is still occupied by his family. Just beyond is Farragut Square, a small, prettily planted park, in the center of which is a statue to the hero of Mobile Bay and the Mississippi forts. This statue of Farragut represents him as standing upon the deck of his flagship Hartford, from whose propeller the metal of which the statue is composed, was taken, and was cast in 1880, after models by Mrs. Lieutenant Hoxie, then Miss Vinnie Ream. It cost $25,000, and was dedicated in April, 1881, many of Farragut's old shipmates taking part in the ceremonies. See illustration, p. 10. The large gray house on the next corner (numbered 1 705 K Street) was originally the residence of Alexander R. Shepherd, the rebuilder of Washington (p. 16). It was for many years the Russian Legation, and is now owned and occupied by Mrs. Bugher. The houses back of it are usually occupied by attaches of the different legations. The large brick building at the corner of L Street, on the right, is a Catholic school for girls; and the yellow house on the opposite corner of De Sales Street is the Grafton Hotel. Colonel John M. Wilson, Superintendent of Public Buildings and Grounds, resides at No. 1141; Senator Wolcott, of Colorado, at No. 1221, and Professor Thomas Wilson, anthropologist of the Smithsonian Institution, at No. 121 8. The handsome stone church (p. 134), with the large square tower, is the Presbyterian Church of the Covenant. The Brazilian Legation occupies the corner of N Street, to the west. On the opposite corner, to the north, is the British Embassy. This is one of the few legations in Washington that are owned, and not rented, by their governments, the others being those of Austria, Brazil, Ger- many, Japan, and Korea. It occupies the site, curiously enough, of the first and only cricket club at the capital, which ceased to play many years ago. On the point between Connecticut Avenue and Eighteenth Street stands the residence of Commander William H. Emory, U. S. N., now occupied by Representative Reyburn, of Philadelphia. The Austrian government has recently purchased. 124 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. and now occupies, No, 1307 as a Legation. Inspector General Breck- enridge, U. S. A., at No. 1314, Admiral Carter at No. 1316, Gardiner G. Hubbard at No. 1328, and Prof. A. Graham Bell at No. 1321. These houses are upon Dupoiit Circle. See illustration, p. 56. This pretty circular park occupies the interior of the space made by the intersection here of Connecticut, Massachusetts, and New- Hampshire avenues, and P and Nineteenth streets. In its center stands the bronze statue of Admiral Samuel F. Dupont, a popular officer of the navy during the Civil War, which was designed by Launt Thomson, cost $10,000, and was unveiled in 1884. Passing beyond Dupont Circle, the large red-brick house to the westward, on the point between P Street and Massachusetts Avenue, w^as erected by the late James G. Blaine when he was Secretary of State in Garfield's cabinet; it still belongs to his estate, but is occupied by Mrs. Westinghouse, of Pittsburg. The gray house, No. 8, is known as Castle Stewart. It was for many years the Chinese Legation, and there was given the famous ball, in 1886, when Washington was scandalized by scenes of social riot. It is now the residence of its owner. Senator Stewart, of Nevada. The big cream-colored house, with the lofty pillared portico, at No. 1400 New Hampshire Avenue, opposite, is the home of the wealthy merchant, L. Z. Leiter, formerly of Chicago, whose daughter married Lord Curzon. The new gray house at No. 161 1 Connecticut Avenue is the home of Mrs. Colton, whose husband was formerly treasurer of the Central Pacific Rail- road. Francis B. Colton lives in the English basement house, a little farther north. The large brownstone residence at the point between Connecticut Avenue and Twentieth Street is the winter home of ex-Senator Philetus Sawyer, of Wisconsin; the brick house. No. 1705, is the Spanish Legation; Admiral Crosby lives at No. 1 71 8, and William E. Curtis, the newspaper writer and author of many books of travel, lives at No. 1801, at the corner of S Street. The little chapel on the hill above is St. Margaret's (Episcopal). | ''Coii7iecticut Avejttie Extended'' is the name applied to this street where, beyond Rock Creek, it resumes its straight course. It leads directly to Chevy Chase (p. 155), and bids fair to become the highway of one of the best of the future suburban districts. On Rhode Island Avenue. The widow of Chief Justice Waite lives at No. 1616, just west of Scott Circle; and the widow of General Sheridan at No. 161 7, across the way; No. 1626 is the home of Albert Clifford Barney; and at No. 1640, Mr. Olney, the present Secretary STATUE OF WASHINGTON IN WASHINGTON CIRCLE. HISTORIC AND PICTURESQUE WASHINGTON. 125 of State, resides. Mrs. Robert Anderson, the widow of the hero of Fort Sumter, lives at No. 1406. The small "circle," with a fountain at the intersection of Vermont Avenue and P Street, is named Iowa, and will probably be ornamented by a statue to Gen. John A. Logan. New Hampshire Avenue is a long street nearly parallel with Vermont Avenue, reaching from the Potomac northeast to the bound- ary at the head of^ Fifteenth Street, and then extended through the distant suburb of Brightwood (p. 149). There is a pretty triangle where it crosses Virginia Avenue; and where it crosses Pennsylvania, K, and Twenty-third streets, is a park named Washington Circle. An equestrian bronze statue of Washington, modeled and cast by Clark Mills, was erected here long ago, at a cost of $50,000. The artist is said to have intended to represent him as he appeared at the battle of Princeton. Some distance above this, the triangle, at the junction of the ave- nue, N, and Twentieth streets, is covered by the residence of Dr. Guy Fairfax Whiting. Christian Heurich, who owns the brewery a block below, lives at No. 1307. Paymaster-General Stewart, United States Navy, resides at No. 131 5; Senator Voorhees at No. 1323; Mrs. Phoebe Hearst, widow of the late Senator from California, at No. 1400, and the widow of the late " Sunset " Cox at No. 1408. North of Dupont Circle, the Leiter mansion (p. 124) is conspicuous, and that of W. C. Whittemore, another retired Chicago merchant, is on the next corner at No. 1526. The large, white house opposite this is the home of Lieut. Richardson Clover, United States Navy, who married a daughter of the late Senator Miller, of California. The Rev. P. Van Wyck, a retired chaplain of the navy, lives at No. 1601, and Rep- resentative Dalzell, of Pennsylvania, at No. 1605. Some notable residences, away from the district surveyed above, should be mentioned. The officers attached to the Navy Yard, to the Washington Barracks (Fourth Artillery, U. S. A.), and to the Sixth Cavalry at Fort Myer, dwell at these stations in the more or less cozy quarters provided by the Government for them. Senator Morgan, of Alabama, lives in a brownstone house opposite the First Presbyterian Church, at No. 315 Four-and-a-half Street. Cardinal Satolli, the Apostle Legate of the Pope of Rome to the United States, resides at No. 201 I Street. This house was pre- sented to General Grant, by the citizens of Washington, at the close of the war, and occupied by him until he was inaugurated as President. It was afterward the residence of Justice Bradley of the Supreme 126 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. Court. The adjoining house, No. 203, was presented to Gen. W. T. Sherman, who lived there for several years, and afterward on Fifteenth Street. Mrs. Jean Lander, once a famous actress, resides at No. 45 B Street, S. E., facing Capitol Park; and John G. Nicolay, private secretary to President Lincoln, and his co-biographer with Mr. Hay, is at No. 212, on the opposite side of the same street. Mr. Justice Field of the Supreme Court, Senator Harris of Tennes- see, and ex-Governor Ordway of Dakota inhabit the block on Capitol Park, which was originally the old Capitol. X. OFFICIAL ETIQUETTE AT THE CAPITAL. Washington society is distinguished from that of other cities mainly by its semi-official character, and in a manner that is not reproduced in any other capital the world over. The official etiquette which surrounds its social observances is simple, and, although new conditions have tended to make some part of the code complex to those who would wish to see its rules as clearly defined as constitu- tional amendments, the most important of its customs have become laws which are generally accepted. The ever-changing personality of the heads of the executive branches of the Government, and of the lawmakers themselves, together with that innate hatred for any- thing partaking too much of court ceremonial, precedence, etc., which is strong in the average American, were good enough reasons for the last generation in leaving these questions unsettled, and will, in all probability, even better answer the bustling spirit of the actors upon the social stage. To the stranger who wishes to meet persons of national prominence at official gatherings, and to catch, besides, a glimpse of that plant of slower and more substantial growth — resi- dential society — the path can be made very easy and the way clear. Social Formalities at the White House. — The President, as the head of the Nation, is entitled to first place whenever he mingles in social life. Whether the second place belongs to the Vice-President or to the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court has not been defined any clearer than whether the Speaker of the House is entitled to precedence over members of the Cabinet. In the popular mind, the second place is accorded the Vice-President by virtue of his right of succession to the highest office in the gift of the people, by the death, resignation, or disability of the President. Since the passage of the Presidential Succession bill (January 19, 1886), the Cabinet is given precedence over the Speaker by the same process of reasoning, (137) 128 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. The official social season extends from New Year to Ash Wed- nesday, the first day of Lent. All the formal hospitalities at the Executive Mansion occur within this period. On New Year's the President holds a reception which begins at ii o'clock and closes at 2 p. m. The Vice-President and the Cabinet are first received, and then the Diplomatic Corps. After that body, the Supreme Court, Senators and Members of Congress, officers of the army and navy, department chiefs, etc. The last hour is given to the public. During the season, three card receptions are held — the first in honor of the Diplomatic Corps; the second in honor of the judi- ciary and the Congress; while the third is one at which officers of the army, navy, and Marine Corps are the guests of honor. A fourth reception is for the public. Advance notice is given in the daily papers of each reception. Invitations for the whole series are sent out about the first of January to the Diplomatic Corps, to all high officials in the executive and legislative departments, to officers of the army, navy, and Marine Corps, and to acquaintances of the President and his family among residents of Washington and other cities. Diplomats wear either court or military uniforms, and officers of the three branches of the service also appear in uniform. No cards of invitation are presented by guests when entering the Executive Mansion, so that practically all these receptions are public events. The President is assisted on these occasions by his wife, the wife of the Vice-President, and the Cabinet ladies. The State Dining- room, at the west end of the house, is used as a cloak room. Having laid aside their wraps, several hundred persons are usually assembled in the main corridor when the President and wife and the receiving party descend to the Blue Room (p. 71), where these receptions are held. Guests approach the Blue Room through the Red Room. Each person announces his or her name to the usher, who stands at the threshold of the Blue Room. He repeats it to the army officer who stands next to the President and who presents each person to him. The President always shakes hands. Another army officer standing in front of the President's wife repeats each name to her. She and the ladies assisting, shake hands with each person who offers their hand to them. A knowledge of this fact on the part of strangers will avoid mutual embarrassment. Some ladies in the ultrafashionable set make deep courtesies to each person instead of shaking hands, when going down the line at these receptions, but the custom has not grown in favor. If not invited to join those back OFFICIAL ETIQUETTE. 129 of the line, guests pass through the Green to the East Room. In this stately apartment the gathering assumes its most brilliant aspect. In the case of a public reception, persons approach the White House by the west gate and a line is formed, which frequently ex- tends as far west as Seventeenth Street, those coming last taking their places at the end. After the threshold of the White House is crossed, the line is a single file through the vestibule, the corridor, and the Red Room to the Blue Room. As in the case of a guest at a card reception, each person announces his or her name to the usher, by whom it is repeated to the army officer who makes the presentations to the President. These rules are also observed when the wife of the President holds a public reception. The state dimters alternate with the levees. The first dinner is given in honor of the Cabinet, the second in honor of the Diplomatic Corps, and the third in honor of the judiciary. The President and his wife receive their guests in the East Room (p. 70) , an army officer making the presentations. When the butler announces din- ner, the President gives his arm to the lady whose husband's official position entitles her to precedence and leads the way to the State Dining-room. If a dinner of more than forty covers is given, the table is laid in the corridor. An invitation to dine with the President may not be declined, excepting where serious reasons can be stated in the note of regret. A prior engagement is not considered a sufficient reason, and, in fact, nothing less than personal ill-health, or serious illness, or a death in one's family would excuse one from obedience to a summons to the table of the President. In conversation, the Chief Executive is addressed as " Mr. Presi- dent." In writing as " The President of the United States." The wife of the President enjoys the same privileges as her hus- band. She receives first calls from all and returns no visits. She receives the public on Saturday afternoons, from 3 to 5 o'clock, once or twice each season. She announces the hours at which she will receive visitors at other times. (Mrs. Cleveland, in addition to the public reception ordained by long i custom, has also given an afternoon card reception to ladies each winter.. She receives her guests in the East Room, and refreshments are served in the State Dining-room. She is assisted by a number of young ladies, who are stationed in groups in each of the rooms to meet and converse with guests. Persons desiring an interview with her at other times, express their wish by letter. In return they receive an engraved form with the date and hour indicated. These recep- 13 130 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. tions are held in the Red Room (p. 72), from 12 to i o'clock generally, two days each week, and are entirely informal. Guests are intro- duced by an usher and remain but a short time. At suitable seasons Mrs. Cleveland is also in the custom of receiving her personal friends after 5 o'clock one afternoon each week.) As the President and wife may or may not make calls, so it is entirely at their option whether or not they accept invitations. For the last ten years the Cabinet circle has been the limit, but previous to that the Presidents accepted hospitalities generally. Under no cir- cumstances, however, will either the President or his wife cross the threshold of any foreign embassy or legation, although members of their families are privileged to do so. The hours for the reception of visitors at the Executive Mansion change with each administration. The house-rules (p. 74) are always posted conspicuously at the entrance. By a custom started by Presi- dent Cleveland, during his hrst term and continued by President Harrison, visitors who wish to pay their respects are received on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays at i o'clock in the East Room. Those having business with the President arrange for interviews with his private secretary. Social Formalities at Official Houses. — The Vzce-Presi'dent and wife make only first calls on the President and wife. They enjoy the same immunity from returning calls. The same courtesy which recognizes the members of the Cabinet as in the official family of the President, includes the Senatorial circle in the official family of the Vice-President. The Vice-President and wife, therefore, return Sen- atorial calls. They receive on New Year's at their own residence, first official callers and then the public. Throughout the season, the wife of the Vice-President receives callers on Wednesday afternoons from 3 to 5. In conversation, the Vice-President is addressed as " Mr. Vice-President." The wife of the Speaker of the House of Representatives receives on Wednesday, at the same hours as the Cabinet ladies. The Speaker is addressed as " Mr. Speaker." The relative precedence of Cabinet officers has been established by the wording of the Presidential Succession bill. It is as follows: The Secretary of State, the Secretary of the Treasury, the Secretary of War, the Attorney-General, the Postmaster-General, the Secretary of the Navy, the Secretary of the Interior, and the Secretary of Agri- culture. The official designation, preceded by the phrase "The Honorable " is the correct form in writmg to any one of them. In conversation, a Cabmet officer is addressed as " Mr. Secretary." OFFICIAL ETIQUETTE. 131 The Cabinet ladies receive the public on Wednesday afternoons, during the season, from 3 to 5. The name of each guest is announced by the butler as the hostess is approached. Each hostess is usually assisted, in these formal hospitalities, by a number of ladies — young girls predominating. They are expected to address visitors and to make their stay pleasant. Callers, except under exceptional circum- stances, do not extend their stay over ten or fifteen minutes, and it is not necessary that any good-byes should be exchanged with the hostess when leaving. As these receptions are frequently attended by from four to eight hundred people, who for the most part are strangers, the reason for the slight disregard of the usual polite form is obvious. No refreshments are now offered, which is also a change from the custom which prevailed several years ago. Visitors leave cards. < Callers w^ear ordinary visiting dress. The hostess and assistants wear high-necked gowns, however elaborate their material and make. This fact is mentioned because a few years ago the reverse was the case, and low-necked evening dresses were generally worn by the receiving party at afternoon receptions. At that period also, men frequently appeared on such occasions in full-dress evening suits, swallow-tail coats, etc. In fact, full dress on both men and women was not unusual at the President's New Year reception, a dozen years ago, under the impression then current that street clothes were not in keeping with a function second to none in point of ceremony from our standpoint, and which. was attended by the Diplomatic Corps in court dress or in dazzling military or naval uniforms. Cus- toms in these matters have changed so entirely that a violation of the accepted fashion makes of the offender a subject for ridicule. The proper costume for a woman to wear to the President's New Year reception is her best visiting-dress with bonnet or hat, the same that she would wear at an afternoon reception. A man will dress for the President's New Year reception as he will for any other ceremonious daylight event. Neither low-necked gowns nor dress suits are per- missible until after six o'clock. The same proprieties of modern custom in dress should be ob- served when attending evening receptions at the White House or else- where. Evening dress is imperative, which, in the case of women, may mean as elaborate or as simple a toilet as the wearer may select, but it implies an uncovered head. Bonnets or hats must not be worn. By a rule adopted during the first Cleveland administration, the Cabinet ladies do not return calls generally, but do send their cards 132 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. once or twice each season as an acknowledgment. The Cabinet ladies make the first call upon the ladies of the Supreme Court circle, the families of Senators, and the families of foreign ambassadors. Certain days of the week are set apart by custom for making calls upon particular groups, and no mistake should be made in this respect. The ladies of the Supreme Court families receive callers on Monday afternoons. Congressional families on Tuesdays, the Cabinet families on Wednesdays, and the Senatorial families on Thursdays, with the exception of those residing on Capitol Hill, who observe the day of that section, which is Monday. By virtue of another old cus- tom, Tuesday is K Street day; Thursday calling day for upper H and I streets; Friday for residents of upper F and G streets, and Saturday for Connecticut Avenue and vicinity. Calling hours are from 3 to 6. The discussion which has been going on for years, and is now as far from settlement as ever, as to whether Supreme Court Justices and families pay the first call to Senators and families, or vice-versa, is only of interest to the stranger as a phase of Washington life, showing the grave importance given to these points by some ofhcial households and of the absolute indifference with which they are viewed by others. The Diplomatic Corps consists of four ambassadors, representing Great Britain, France, Italy, and Germany, and twenty-six ministers plenipotentiary, of which a circumstantial list will be found at the end of this book. They are ranked in the order of their seniority. Each embassy and legation has a corps of secretaries and attaches. The British Ambassador, Sir Julian Pauncefote, is the dean of the corps, having been the first ambassador appointed to this country. The dip- lomat who has had the longest service here, and who, until the crea- tion of ambassadors, was the dean of the corps, is Senor Romero, the Mexican Minister. Official etiquette as regards the corps has changed since the coming of ambassadors. Ambassadors are given prece- dence by ministers. By virtue of long-established custom, to quote Thomas Jefferson, " foreign ministers, from the necessity of making themselves known, pay the first visit to the ministers of the nation, which is returned." Ambassadors claim that they only call on the President because that is the habit of European countries. It is generally understood that all persons, official or otherwise, pay the first call to the embassies. The ladies of the Diplomatic Corps have no special day on which to receive callers, each household making its own rules in this respect and announcing the date at the proper time. XI. CHURCHES, ART GALLERIES, THE- ATERS, CLUBS, ETC. Washington has a great number of Churches of every denomination and in all parts of the city. Only a few of the most conspicuous of these need be mentioned. The oldest are Rock Creek Church (p. 151), near the Soldiers' Home; Christ Church (p. 58), near the Navy Yard, and St. John's (p. no), on Lafayette Square. All these are Episcopal, and have been elsewhere described. Other prominent Episcopal churches are : Epiphany (G Street, near Fourteenth), which, like several other church societies in the city, has a suburban chapel ; the Church of the Ascension, at Massachusetts Avenue and Twelfth Street ; old St. John's is prominent in Georgetown ; and St. James', at Massachusetts Avenue and Eighth Street, N. E., on Capitol Hill, is very highly ritualistic. The Roman Catholics have many fine churches and a very large influence in Washington. (See their uni- versities.) Their oldest church is St. Aloysius, at North Capitol and S streets; and St. Matthew's, at Fifteenth .and H streets, is probably the most fashionable. Congregationalism is represented most prom- inently by the First Church, at G and Tenth streets, which has always been a leader in religious philanthropy, especially toward the Freedmen. The Presbyterian churches are among the oldest and largest. The leading one, perhaps, is the First, which remains in Four-and-a-half Street, and is still under the care of the venerable Dr. Byron Sunderland. This is the church attended by President Cleveland. An offshoot from it was the New York Avenue Church , whose big house is so conspicuous in the angle between that avenue and H Street at Twelfth. Doctor Bartlett, Doctor Paxton, and its present pastor. Doctor Radcliffe, have all been celebrated preachers there. (133) 134 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. Out of this has sprung the Gurley Memorial, near Seventh Street and the Boundary; and the Church of the Covenant, whose great square tower is a conspicuous ornament on Connecticut Avenue. Well- known Methodist churches are the Metropolitan, down in Four-and- a-half Street; the Foundry Church, at G and Fourteenth streets, which President Hayes attended ; and the Hamline, at Ninth and P streets. A leading Baptist church is Calvary, at Eighth and H streets. The Swedenborgians have a conspicuous white stone build- ing at Cochran and Sixteenth streets ; and the Unitarians, the well- known Church of All Souls, at Fourteenth and L streets. The Universalist meeting house is at L and Thirteenth streets. The "Christian" society, of which President Garfield was a member, worships in its Memorial Chureh on Vermont Avenue, between N and O streets. The Lutheran Memorial Church, on Thomas Circle, is foremost in that denomination, and the service is English. There are two Hebrew synagogues. Colored churches are numerous, chiefly of the Methodist and Baptist persuasions ; in the former the strongest is Asbury, at Eleventh and K streets, and in the latter, the Abyssinian, Vermont Avenue and R Street, takes the lead. The Art Galleries, properly speaking, are two in number ; but those interested in statuary,, pictures, and ceramics will find a great quantity of all these displayed at the Capitol, in various department buildings, on the walls of the new Library of Congress (p. 49), and at the National Museum. First on the list, of course, is The Corcoran Art Gallery. This has no connection with the Government, although its trustees are given a place in the Congres- sional Directory. It is wholly the result of the philanthropy of a wealthy citizen, William Wilson Corcoran, who died in 1893. " He early decided," it has been well said, "that at least one-half of his money accumulations should be held for the welfare of men, and he kept his self-imposed obligation so liberally that his charities, private and public, exceed the amount of $5,000,000, and that 'he left no aspect of human life untouched by his beneficence.' " The Corcoran Gallery was opened in 1869, in the noble building opposite the War Department. This will soon be superseded by the splendid new gallery, on Seventeenth Street, at New York Avenue, facing the Executive grounds. The Corcoran donations, including the old lot and building, have been $1,600,000; and about $350,000 have been paid by the trustees for paintings, besides what has been given. A large number of casts of classic statues, famous bas-reliefs, and THE CHURCH OF THE COVENANT — Connecticut Avenue and N Street. (See page 123.) CHURCHES, ART GALLERIES, ETC. 135 smaller carvings in this gallery, are not only beautiful in themselves, but of great value to students. The new building has a length of 265 feet in Seventeenth Street, 140 feet in New York Avenue, and 120 feet in E Street. In archi- tecture it is Neo-Greek, after the plans of Ernest Flagg of New York, and the external walls, above the granite basement, are of Georgia marble, white, pure, and brilliant. There are no windows on the second, or gallery, floor of the fagade, all the light for the exhibition of the pictures coming from the skylight in the roof. The only ornaments of this front are about the doorway, which is elabor- ately carved, and under the eaves of the roof, where the names of the world's famous artists are inscribed in severely simple letters. Entering the front door, the visitor is confronted by a grand stair- case, on the farther side of the great statuary hall, 170 feet long, which occupies the ground floor. This is so lighted by openings through the gallery floor that, for the exhibition of casts in delicate lights, it can not be surpassed in any other gallery of the world. The second, or gallery floor, where the principal pictures will be hung, under the great glass roof, is supported by Doric columns of Indiana limestone, above which are Ionic cohimns supporting the roof. On this floor are also four gallery rooms, sixty- one feet by twenty -eight, and numerous small rooms for the exhibition of water-colors and objects of art. On the New York Avenue side is a semicircular lecture hall, with a platform and rising floor to the side walls, which, with a good skylight, make this Toom an excellent one for private exhibitions. Attached to the gallery is an art school, which will have two well -lighted rooms fronting to the north, with accommoda- tions for a large number of pupils. It is the intention to give here annual art exhibitions of the work of local and other American artists and students. Among the older and more prominent paintings in the Corcoran collection are the following: "The Tornado" by Thomas Cole, " The Watering-Place " by Adolphe Schreyer, " Nedjma-Odalisque " by Gaston Casim-ir Saint Pierre, "Edge of the Forest" by Asher Brown Durand, " The Vestal Tuccia " by Hector Le Roux, " Mercy's Dream" by Daniel Huntington, "Niagara Falls" by Frederick Edwin Church, "Caesar Dead" by Jean Leon Gerome, "On the Coast of New Jersey" by William T. Richards, "The Helping Hand" by Emile Renouf, "The Death of Moses" by Alexander Cabanel, "Charlotte Corday in Prison" by Charles Louis Muller, " The Passing Regiment " by Edward Detaille, " Wood Gatherers " by Jean Baptiste Camille Corot, " The Forester's Home " by Ludwig 136 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. Knatis, "Virgin and Child" by Murillo, "Christ Bound" by Van Dyck, "Landscape" by George Inness, "The Schism" by Jean George Vibert, " The Pond of the Great Oak" by Jules Dupre, "A Hamlet of the Seine near Vernon " by Charles Frangois Daubigny, " Landscape, with Cattle," by Emile Van Marcke, " Joan of Arc m Infancy " by Jean Jacques Henner, "The Banks of the Adige " by Martin Rico, "Twilight" by Thomas Alexander Harrison, "The Wedding Festival" by Eugene Louis Gabriel Isabey, "The Approaching Storm " by Narcisse Virgile Diaz de la Pena, " Moon- light in Holland" by Jean Charles Cazin, "Approaching Night" by Max Wey, "Sunset in the Woods" by George Inness, "El Bravo Toro " by Aime Nicholas Morot. Some noteworthy late additions are: "The Landscape of Historical Bladensburg " (in 1SS7); the " First Railway in New York" by E. L. Henry; and Charles Gutherz' (Paris, 1S94) great canvas of the "Bering Sea Arbitration Court," which is accompanied by an explanation and Tvcy to the portraits. The Tayloe Collection is a bequest from the family of Benjamin Ogle Tayloe, whose richly-furnished home is still standing on Lafay- ette Square (p. iii). It consists of some 200 or more objects of art, ornament and curious interest, including marbles by Powers, Thor- waldsen, Greenough, and Canova; portraits by Gilbert Stuart, Hunt- ington, and foreign artists, and many other paintings ; a large num- ber of bronze objects and pieces of furniture, including W^ashing- ton's card-table and other pieces that belonged to eminent men, and a large series of porcelain, glass, ivory, and other objects, which are both historically and artistically interesting. A special catalogue for this collection is sold at 5 cents. The gallery is open on week days from 9.30 a. m. till 4.00 p. m. On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays an admission fee of 25 cents is charged; on other days admission is free; also on Friday evenings, in winter, from 7.30 till 10.00, admission free. From July 15th to Sep- tember 15th, the gallery is closed. A catalogue is sold at 25 cents. The Waggaman Gallery ought surely to be examined by all cultivated travelers. It is at No. 3300 O Street, Georgetown, and is easily reached by either the F Street or Pennsylvania Avenue street- cars. This gallery is the private acquisition of Mr. E. Waggaman, and contains a large number of fine paintings, the specialty being Dutch water-colors, where the Hollandish style and choice of subjects are well exhibited. The most striking and valuable part of the col- lection, however, is undoubtedly that representing Japanese work in pottery, stone, and metal. The series of tea jars, antique porcelains, and modern wares, showing rare glazes and the most highly-prized colors, is extensive and well chosen; and a wonderful array* of bronzes and artistic work in other metals in the form of swords, sword-guards, bells, ^itensils of various forms and capacities, and dec- orative compositions, excites the enthusiasm of connoisseurs in this CHURCHES, ART GALLERIES, ETC. 137 department. The gems of this superb cabinet, however, are the articles of jade, in which this collection has few superiors; among which the translucent plaques of carved jade, if not unique in the United States, are certainly unsurpassed. A large number of ivory- carvings, teakwood stands of exquisite design, and other curiosi- ties of oriental art and workmanship, make this gallery notable. Visitors are admitted upon Thursdays, during January, Febru- ary, March, and April, between ii and 4 o'clock of each week, by paying 50 cents for each admission toward a charitable fund. The magnificent Walters' Gallej'ies in Baltimore (No. 5 Mount Vernon Place) are so easily and frequently visited from Washington, and are of such importance, that they ought to be mentioned here. They are the private collection of the late William T. Walters, kindly opened to the public during certain winter months, by his son, Henry Walters; and they excel not only anything in America, but in special lines, as oriental porcelains, bronzes, etc., and certain classes of pic- tures, surpass anything else anywhere. The collection of modern paintings is unequaled for quality in the whole world. These art- treasures are visible each AVednesday, from February to May; and tickets may be had in Washington of Harris & Shaler, 11 13 Pennsyl- vania Avenue. The Theaters in Washington attract the finest traveling com- panies, including occasional grand opera. The newest and most ornate house is the Lafayette Square Opera House, occupying an historic site (p. iii) on Lafayette Square. Another large theater is Allen's (formerly Albaugh's) Opera House, on Fifteenth Street, at the corner of E Street, one block -south of Pennsylvania Avenue. The new National Theater, on Pennsylvania Avenue, between Thirteenth and Fourteenth streets, is of great capacity and comfort, and holds the popularity it gained long ago. The Academy of Music is another well-known house, at Ninth and D streets. Kernan's Lyceum, at 1014 Pennsylvania Avenue, gives lively variety shows. Metzerott Hall and Willard's Hall are the principal places for lec- tures, and the like, but scientific lectures are usually heard in the hall at the National Museum or in the lecture room of the Cosmos Club. Cojive7ition Hall is an immense arched apartment over a market where New York Avenue crosses L and Fifth streets, and is intended for the use of the great conventions that more and more seek to meet in this city, and for inauguration balls, fairs, and similar occasions where vast congregations must be accommodated. In winter it is a skating rink. The Clubs of the capital are not among its " sights," but should 138 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. receive a few words. Most prominent among them is the Metropol- itan, which has already been characterized (p. 117). Next in social importance, probably, is the Army and Navy, which has a hand- some six-story building opposite the southeastern corner of Farragut Square. Its triangular lot has enabled the architect to make a series of very charming principal rooms, in the northwestern front, where the sunshine streams in nearly all day. These and the many connecting apartments are luxuriously furnished and adorned with pictures, including original portraits of a dozen or more of the princi- pal commanders of the army and navy, from Paul Jones to W. T. Sherman. Only those identified with some military organization are eligible to membership, but the club is very liberal in extending a welcome to visiting militiamen, foreign military men, and others suitably introduced. One feature of this club is the informal pro- fessional lecture given to the members once a month by some expert. The Unh'ersity is a smaller social club having a house at the corner of Seventeenth and I streets. T/ie Cosmos has been referred to elsewhere (p. 115); and the Columbia Athletic Club is a large asso- ciation of young men, partly social and partly athletic, which has a fine new house and gymnasium on F Street, and a field in the gardens of the old Van Ness mansion (p. 95). The Coutitry Club, near Tennallytown, and the Chevy Chase Club have already been men- tioned. Allied to them, within the city, are several clubs of bicycle riders, tennis and ball players, and boatmen, Washington being a place famous for oarsmen. The two women's clubs must not be for- gotten: One is the fashionable Washington Club, on H Street, oppo- site the French Embassy, and the other the Working Women's Club, a purely social organization, at No. 606 Eleventh Street, com- posed of women who earn their living — physicians, journalists, stenog- raphers, etc. Both these clubs give teas, musicals, and other femi- nine entertainments. The Alibi is a coterie of well-fed gentlemen who give charming feasts, largely of their own cooking, and cultivate a refined Bohemianism; while the Gridiron is a dining club of news- paper men, who have a jolly dinner among themselves once a month, and an annual spread to which all the great men available are in- vited, and where most of them are good-naturedly guyed. XII. EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 1. To Mount Vernon. The pilgrimage to the home and tomb of George Washington at Mount Vernon is regarded by most Americans as a duty as well as a pleasure, and foreigners look upon it as a compliment due to the nation. It forms, moreover, a delightful excursion. Mount Vernon is on the right bank of the Potomac, sixteen miles below Washington. The lands about it were a part of an extensive ^grant to John Washington, the first of the family who came to America in 1656, and they descended rather fortuitously, in 1752, to George, then hardly more than a lad. He married in 1759, and continued to develop and beautify the estate until the breaking out of the Revolution, when the ability he had shown in the Virginia militia called him to the service of- the United Colonies. He returned to Mount Vernon at the close of the war, but, to his grief, was obliged soon to quit its beloved acres for the cares of the first Presi- dency of the Republic. During this interval of five years an almost continuous stream of visitors had been entertained there, and among them were many foreigners of note as well as representative Ameri- cans of the time. Finally, in 1797, the great commander was released from the cares of government, and enabled to retire, to pass, as he hoped, many quiet and enjoyable years upon his plantation. A most interesting account of life at Mount Vernon and its neighbor- hood at this time may be found in an illustrated article by Constance Cary Harrison in The Century ior April, 1889. Only two years were vouchsafed him, however, for on December 14, 1799, lie died of mem- branous croup (or barbarous medical treatment) following exposure .in a storm. He was buried upon his own estate, and the family declined to accept the subsequent invitation of Congress to transfer (139) 140 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHTNGTOM. the body to the Capitol at Washington, This estate and Washington's other property, estimated by himself as worth $530,000, descended, at the death of Mrs. AVashington, here, in 1802, to Bushrod Washington, then a Justice of the Supreme Court, who died in 1829, leaving the estate to his nephew^, John Augustine Washington, from whom it passed by legacy, in 1832, to his widow, and from her, in 1855, to her son. He proposed to sell it, when a Southern lady, Miss Ann Paijiela Cunningham, secured the refusal of it, and, after failing to interest Congress in her proposal that the Government should buy and preserve it as a memorial, succeeded in arousing the women of the country. An association of these women, with representatives from every State, w^as incorporated by Virginia in 1856, and it paid $200,000 for the property (some 200 acres), covenanting to hold it in perpetuity. The admission fee of 25 cents goes to the payment of current expenses. The Mount Vernon Railroad Company is running cars and trains to Mount Vernon and to Arlington National Cemetery, direct from Pennsylvania Avenue and Thirteen-and-a-half Street. This is an electric road, and passes along Twelfth Street, S. W., and Maryland Avenue to and across the Long Bridge, and then through Alexandria, taking up or leaving passengers at any street corner. A trip to Mount Vernon by this route, including the time needed for a satis- factory sight of Washington's Mansion and Tomb, need not consume more than three hours; and cars will run from the city terminus to Arlington in fifteen minutes. The direct water route to Mount Vernon is by the comfort- able steamer "Charles Macalester," built for the association, which leaves the wharves at the foot of Seventh Street daily except Sunday, at 10.00 a. m., and returns at 2.30 p. m.; in summer the hour is 9.00 o'clock, and there is an afternoon trip, returning late in the evening. Only round-trip tickets are sold (75 cents), including admission (25 cents) to the grounds. This steamer also goes on to Notley Hall and Marshall Hall (p. 144). The Potomac River trip is one of great enjoyment on a fine day. As the steamer moves out into the stream, it rides in a broad tidal channel dredged for harbor purposes by the Government and kept full by a tidal reservoir above. The long artificial island Avhich sep arates this harbor from the river itself will hereafter become a park. On the city shore, immediately below the wharves, appears the pleasant parade of the military post on Greenleaf's Point, Washington Barracks, or The Arsenal, as it is still more com- Washington, Alexandria &L Mt. Vernon Railway IS OPERATING TRAINS FROM PENNSYLVANIA AVE. AND 134 ST. EVERY HOUR TO Arlington National Cemetery, Alexandria, Mt. Vernon, Saint Asaph and Alexandria Island Race Tracks AS WELL AS OTHER POINTS ALONG ITS LINES. Tourists can leave Washington (Pennsylvania Ave. and i3>4 St.), see Mt. Vernon thoroughly, and return in three hours. Time from Washing:ton to IMt. Vernon, 45 minutes. Time from Washington to Arlington, 1 5 minutes. Passengers can take its cars in Washington at all street crossings north of Long Bridge. Trains also stop at all street crossings in Alexandria. For schedule in effect, see time cards or daily newspapers. G. E. ABBOT, B. T. FLINT, GEORGE R PHILLIPS, PRES'T AND GEN'L MGR. GEWLSUP'T. GEN • L PASS' R AGT. EXCURSIONS ABOUT IVASHINGrON. 141 monly called, is a military post on the peninsula between the Poto- mac and its eastern branch. Its land entrance is at the foot of Four- and-one-half Street, and is reached by both the Metropolitan com- pany's street cars and the cable line on Seventh Street. A trifling set- tlement styled Carrollsburg, with an earthen breast-high battery, existed on the extremity of this point, which was called Turkey Buzzard or Greenleaf's Point when the city was laid out; and in 1803 the peninsula was reserved for military purposes as far as T Street S. W. What few buildings were there in 18 14 were destroyed by the British, who lost a large number of men by dropping a "port-fire" into a dry well where a great quantity of navy powder had been hidden, thus producing an impromptu volcano. In 1826 the northern end of the reservation, as far back as U Street, denoted by the jog in the river wall on the Potomac side, was walled off as a site for a district penitentiary. A building was erected having a yard with a high inclosing wall, and here, in 1865, were confined the conspirators in the assassination of Lincoln. Four of them were hung and buried there, and the others sent to distant prisons. The body of J. Wilkes Booth and later of Wirz (p. 57) were also buried there. Exactly where this execution and the interments were made is not accurately known, but it is believed that the gallows was planted near the circular flower bed now in front of the commandant's door, and that the bodies were buried near its foot. All were soon after- ward removed, the penitentiary was swept away, the limits of the military reservation were advanced to P Street, and, in 188 1, the arsenal was abolished. The verdant parade, with its flag, and guns, and avenue of big trees; its former storehouses, which during the war contained enor- mous quantities of arms and ammunition, and are now used as barracks; and its quadrangle of officers' quarters at the extreme point, make a pretty picture as we float past. Its present occupants are five companies of the Fourth Artillery. As it is the headquarters of that regiment, it has the band, and during the pleasant half of the year, guard-mounting at 9.00 a. m.,and dress-parade at 5.00 p.m. are conducted with much ceremony, while battery drills can be seen almost any morning at ten or eleven o'clock. The Anacostia River then opens broadly at the left, and the navy yard and southern front of the city are exposed to view. On the further bank looms up the great Govenuiient Hospital for the Insane, which cost $1,000,000, and is one of the finest institutions of its kind in the world. It is primarily intended for demented men of the army and navy ; and there Lieutenant Gushing, of torpedo- boat fame, ended his blighted days. The low level grounds of Giesboro Poiiit, bordering the river below the asylum, were occupied during the war as cavalry camps and drilling stations. Opposite it is the broad estuary of Four-Mile Run. Alexandria now comes into view. 14 143 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. Alexandria began, under the name of Bellhaven, in 1748, and had a promising early career. "It rapidly became an important port, and developed an extensive foreign trade. It was well known in the great English commercial cities. General Washington, Governor Lee, and other prominent Virginians interested themselves in its development, and at one time it was thought it would become a greater city than Baltimore. Warehouses crowded with tobacco, and flour and corn, lined its docks, and fleets of merchant vessels filled its harbor." The founding and advancement of Washington and the building of railroads, which diverted traffic to inland channels, destroyed its importance, and the coming of Civil War ruined it socially. Here the Union troops began their " invasion " of Virginia soil, and here fell Ellsworth — the first notable victim of the conflict. The old hotel where he pulled down the Confederate flag is nbw hidden away in the reconstructed Marshall House. Alexandrians can point out to strangers many quaint and inter-i esting places, houses, monuments, and relics in the town, which has little other interest for the traveler; the principal curiosity is Christ Church, in which Washington's family and all the respectable per- sons of his neighborhood used to worship. It has been kept as near as may be as it was in those days ; and the old square pew in which " His Excellency, the General," used to sit, gazing up at the high pulpit during the long and strong sermons, is still pointed out. Ani afternoon can be spent profitably in Alexandria under good guidance. The steamer stops at Alexandria both going and coming. There! is also a ferry running a boat hourly between Alexandria and Wash- ington, and the railroad runs trains' back and forth at short intervals ;i two ferries cross the river, and electric cars run southward to Mount Vernon, and northward to Arlington and Georgetown, so that the town is easy to get into and out of. Just below Alexandria is the deep bay called Htinting Creek, ati the head of which was Fort Lyon, one of the strongest of the Civil War fortifications. This creek gave its name to the Washington plantation before Lawrence Washington named it " Mount Vernon ' in compliment to an admiral with whom he had served. At its moui '1 r& Jones Pointy where the southern corner-post of the original dis- trict was placed by Washington with Masonic ceremonies, anl where the men of that day proposed that a great monument should j be erected. On the Maryland side of the Potomac, toward which thei boat now heads, was another commanding earthwork. Fort Footr of great military importance. This fort was kept in repair for man) years after the war, and the United States still owns its site. Tin next stop is made, about twelve miles below the city, at Fort IVas/i EXCURSIONS ABOUT WA SHING TON. 143 ington, an old stone fort on a point of the Maryland shore, within sight of Mount Vernon and commanding the channel. Tradition says that the early explorers of the Potomac found an Indian "castle" here, and that Washington advised the building of a fort on this headland, as soon as the District of Columbia was created. L'Enfant drew the plans as his last public work, and a strong fort- ress was begun, but was blown up by the Americans in 1812, when they heardf that the British were coming. It was rebuilt and com- 'spleted in 1824, at a cost of $560,000, but has long been disarmed. The approach to Mount Vertioji impresses one with the sightli- ness of the situation and the dignity of the mansion, which shines among the trees from an elevation 1 50 feet above the landing wharf. ■^ . The Tomb of Washington is the first object of attention, and stands immediately at the head of the path from the landing. Its position, small dimensions, and plain form of brick were dictated by Washington in his will. The back part of it, extending into the bank, and closed by iron doors, entombs the bodies of about thirty members and relatives of the family. The front part, closed by plain iron gates, ( through which anyone may look, contains two plain sarcophagi, each excavated from a single block of marble, which were made and presented by John Struthers, of Philadelphia, in 1837. That one in the center of the little inclosure holds the mortal remains of the Father of his Country, within the' mahogany coffin in which they were originally placed. At his left is the body of his "consort," Martha Washington. The old family tomb, in which both were first buried, is to be found at the right of the path on the way to the house. In front of the present tomb are the graves of some of Washington's nearest descendants, marked by inscribed obelisks. A paved walk leads up the slope past the barn, built by Lawrence Washington, in 1733, of imported bricks, and the coach house, where may still be seen the clumsy old family coach, that was thought so fine in its day; beyond it is the kitchen, with a capacious fireplace, and connected by a curving colonnade, along which went the glorious procession of cooks and waiters bearing dinner, with the house itself — the home of America's hero and model. The Mansion is not a large house, nor a handsome one architec- turally. It is made of wood, has two stories and an attic, and is ninety-six feet long, and thirty feet wide. The whole eastern front is shaded by a paved porch extended outward from the eaves, sup- ported by eight plain, square posts, and paved with stone at the level of the ground. This house will not compare with Arlington for 144 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. appearances, outside or inside, as a building; and it loses, moreover, in our estimation, because we regard it mainly from the river side; whereas the western, or roadway side, is far more interesting as an architectural sight, with its curving wings and fine doorway. It is this side, no doubt, that the Washington s would have deemed the "front" of the house, had they ever defined it. The rooms are mostly small and low, and only the simplest ornamentation of the woodwork, ceilings, and mantels appears; yet everything is gen- uine, neat, and cosy. It was by no means the finest mansion of its day, but it was snug and well provided, and no doubt its owner was quite contented wnth it, caring more, after all, for things out of doors than in, and more concerned with having his house comfort- able, and able to accommodate his friends, than to have it appear a palace. It is the undulating lawns, the noble trees, and gracefully disposed shrubberies, with the vistas between them of the broad river and far-away Maryland hills, that will attract the visitor most; and he will delight to wander through the "vineyard inclo- sure," behind the kitchen and stable, and then go over to the flower garden and revel in the roses that grow almost all the year round, between dense hedges of box defining the pathways and beds. A considerable quantity of furniture that belonged to the Wash- ington family came into possession of the association with the house ; and many more articles of furniture and ornament have been acquired since. The plan w^as early adopted of assigning a single room to a State, which placed within it furniture and household arti- cles of that time. It is needless in this book to go into a description of w^hat these rooms are or their contents, since nearly everj^thing is fully labeled; and if any further details are needed by the visitor, let him buy one of the pamphlets issued by the association, and thus add to its funds as well as increase his information — two very desir- able objects gained for a quarter of a dollar! There is no eating-house at Mount Vernon, though one may buy cakes and a glass of milk in the old kitchen. Excellent meals may be had upon the steamboat, however. The electric cars come to the rear gate of the estale, three min- utes' Avalk from the mansion, and make a very pleasant run through the woods, often within view of the river, then pass through Alex- andria, by the railway station, and on across Long Bridge into Washington at Pennsjdvania Avenue and Fourteenth Street; or one can go by electric road from Alexandria to Arlington and Georgetown. 't Marshall Hall, the end of the steamboat's' route, is an old estate of that name on the Maryland shore, some miles below Mount Ver- non, which is now a summer pleasure resort, with restaurants, dan- cing platforms, swings, merry-go-roun-ds, and similar amusements. THE McCLELLAN GATE AT ARLINGTON. EXCURSIONS ABOUT WA SHING TON. 145 It is a lively but orderly place, much frequented in summer. River- view and Not ley Hall are similar riverside summer resorts reached by the steamboats. 2, To Arlington and Fort Myer. The next excursion after Mount Vernon is certainly that to Arlington. The way lies through Georgetown to the Union sta- tion, at the end of the Pennsylvania Avenue cable line, where an electric car can be taken across the Potomac to the gates of Arling- ton, on the heights of Virginia; or, if you prefer, to the parade of Fort Myer, whence it is only ten minutes' walk to the famous family mansion of Custis and Lee. The history of this old home of the colonial aristocracy is not only closely identified with the annals of early Virginia, but with the political development of the country. It was bought, as a tract of i,i6o acres, for p^ii.ooo, by John Custis, who, early in the eighteenth century, came from the Eastern shore to live on his new property. His was one of the " first families of Virginia ' in every sense of the word, and possessed great wealth; but he had various domestic troubles, one of which was, that his high-spirited son, Daniel Parke Custis, insisted upon neglecting a high-born heiress, prepared by his parents for his future consort, and marrying, instead, pretty Martha Dandridge, the belle of Williamsburg, the colonial capital. The old gentleman was very angry, until one day, we are told, Martha Dan- dridge met him at a social gathering, and fairly captivated him. The marriage was made and prospered, and, when old Custis died, his son and his wife came into possession and residence here at Arlington, where Daniel soon died, leaving Martha a young widow with two children, John Parke and Eleanor Custis. His will entailed this estate to his son, and divided his other property, the wife receiv- ing, as her share, lands and securities worth, perhaps, $100,000. In due time this rich and blooming widow re-entered society, where she presently became acquainted with a colonial colonel, who had recently achieved military fame in Braddock's expedition against Fort Duquesne. He lived with his mother at Mount Vernon, only fifteen miles below, and his name was George Washington. It was not long before he had wooed and won the charming and opulent widow, who laid aside her weeds and went with her two children to live at her husband's home. Together they managed and cared for the Arlington estate, until its young owner should come of age, and both were often there. The daughter died, but the son grew to manhood, received his noble property, married a Calvert, and served upon his step-father's staff during the latter part of the Revolution. Then he, too, died (1781), and his two infant children were adopted by Washington and deeply loved. They kept their own names, how- ever, and Nelly, who seemed to have inherited the beauty of her 140 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. grandmother, married Major Lewis, a Virginian. Her brother, George Washington Parke Custis, upon reaching his majority, inherited and took possession of Arlington, at the beginning of the present century; and immediately began the erection of the present mansion, which, therefore. Washington himself, never saw, since he died December 13, 1799, while this house was not completed until 1803. A few months afterward, Mr. Custis married Mary Lee Fitz- hugh, one of the Randolphs, and four children were born to them, but only one survived, a daughter, Mary. The Custis family lived at Arlington, improving and beautifying the estate, winning the good opinion of all who knew them, and entertaining handsomely until the death of Mrs. Custis, in 1S53, and of her husband, the last male of his family, in 1857. The estate then fell to the daughter, who, meanwhile, had married a young army officer, Robert E. Lee, son of " Lighthorse Harry" Lee, the dashing cavalryman of the Revolution, entwining into the story of the estate another strand of the best fabric of Virginian society. Arlington immediately became the home of this officer, and when the Civil War came, and Colonel Lee went out of the Union with his State, his greatest personal sac- rifice, no doubt, was the thought of leaving Arlington. Indeed, so little did he foresee that he was going to be the leader of a four-years' struggle, that he took away none of the furniture, and very few even of the great number of relics of Washington, many of intrinsic as well as historic 'value, which the house contained. Federal troops at once took possession of the estate, and everything of historical value was seized by the Government, so that most of the collection, with other relics, is now to be seen at the National Museum. Arlington could not be confiscated, because entailed; but the non-payment of taxes made a pretext for its sale, when it was bought in for !i^23,ooo, by the United States Government, which established the mili- tary cemetery here in 1864. When, several years after the war, G. W. Custis Lee inherited the estate, he successfully disputed, in the Supreme Court, the legality of the tax-sale, but at once trans- ferred his restored rights to the Government for $150,000, which was jmid him in 1884. Arlington is a fine example of the architecture of its era, and resembles Jefferson's mansion at Monticello. Its upper floor is occu- pied by the official in charge, but the lower rooms are mainly empty, and visitors are content with a glance at them, preferring the open air and light of the lawns and gardens about the house, and the groves that now cover the adjacent fields, which, since 1864, have been devoted to the sacred purposes of a National Military Cemetery. Here, behind the inscribed arch of the great gate, made from the marble pillars of the old War Depart- ment building, and under the oaks that belonged to the greatest of " the enemy," sleep almost a score of thousands of LTnion soldiers, and every year sees the eternal enlistment in their ranks of many more. ! 1 EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 147 On the bluff overlooking the spacious and beautiful landscape toward the river and city, are the graves and monuments of some of the Union's latest and most distinguished defenders. Here lies Lieut. -Gen. Philip H. Sheridan, beneath a grand memorial stone; Adm. David D. Porter, Maj.-Gen. George H. Crook, whose mon- ument bears a bronze bas-relief of the surrender of the Apache Gero- nimo; Maj.-Gen. Abner Doubleday, the historian of Gettysburg; Gen- erals Meigs, Ricketts, Benit, and Watkins; Colonel Berdan of "sharp- shooter " fame, and others. In the rear of the mansion is a miniature temple upon whose columns are engraved the names of great Ameri- can soldiers; and a lovely amphitheater of columns, vine-embowered, where Decoration Day ceremonies and open-air burial services may be conducted. Near it is a great granite mausoleum in which repose the bones of 2,111 unknown soldiers gathered after the war from the battle-field of Bull Run, and thence to the Rappahannock. It is sur- rounded by cannon and bears a memorial inscription. A driveway and paved footwalk crosses the cemetery inclosure (which embraces within a low stone wall about 250 acres) to the western gate at the tramway terminus next to Fort Myer. To the left (south) of this path stretches away through the woods an immense area of soldiers' graves in parallel rows, level with the sod, and each having its little marble headstone. This vast burial-field is covered with trees and carpeted with luxuriant turf, Down in the woods at the foot of the hill are other serried ranks of the fallen " boys in blue," and along the brow of the slope, at the right of the path, rest many officers of the army and navy whose names are familiar in every patriotic home. Such are Harney, Ingalls, McKibbin, Gregg, Gleason, King, Hazen, Tourtellotte, Marthor, Myer, and many others; and several of the mortuary monuments have great appropriateness. The total number of burials here is now over 16,000. Fort Myer occupies a large area of the old estate adjoining the cemetery on the north, but separated from it by a ravine up which the tramway makes its way from the aqueduct bridge. This is a cavalry post of the army, capable of accommodating a whole reg- iment, and now occupied by the Sixth Cavalry. The officers' quarters are on the bluff overlooking the Potomac and the city, behind them are various offices, the post -hospital, etc., and farther back the com- modious brick barracks, large stables, and great drill shed. The even- ing parades, in fine weather, and the weekly band concerts are picturesque and delightful; and it is highly interesting to sit in the 148 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTOX. public gallery of the drill hall and watch the feats of horsemanship in which the cavalrymen are trained. The great rolling field, west of the cemetery and south of the post parade ground, is devoted to trooj), squadron, and regimental drilling, and is a favorite place for polo. This fine inilitary post occupies the site of Fort Whipple, one of the strongest defenses of Washington during the Civil War. .After the disaster at Bull Run, a system of defenses was projected and partly completed to cover every approach to the city. ' ' Every prominent point," wrote General Cullom, " at intervals of 800 or 1 ,000 yards, was occupied by an inclosed field-fort; every important ap- proach or depression of ground, unseen from the forts, was swept by a battery of field guns, and the whole connected by rifle-trenches, which were, in fact, lines of infantry parapet, furnishing emplacement for two ranks of men, and affording covered communication along the line; while roads were opened, wherever necessary, so that troops and artillery could be moved rapidly from one point of the immense periphery to another, or under cover from point to point." In this circle of defenses Fort Whipple held a very important position, and was a star-shaped earthwork, scientifically built, and heavily armed and garrisoned. It has been completely swept away, but south of the drill plain, at the eastern corner of the cemetery. Fort Tillinghast is still standing and looks, at a distance, as if time had spared it as completely as did the ravages of war. It is well worth a visit. The ruins of Fort Cass, and other outworks near by, are also traceable. Fort Whipple was assigned to the use of the Signal Corps as training school and headquarters, and was at once re-named Myer after its commandant, the Chief Signal Officer. It was there that the present code of army signaling was established; and there began the experimental meteorological work out of which has grown the United States Weather Service. 3. To the Soldiers' Home, Rock Creek Church, Fort Stevens, Battle and National Cemeteries, the Catholic University, and Brookland. The Soldiers' Home stands in the midst of a noble park, with a wide outlook from high grounds directly north of the Capitol from which it is distant four miles in a straight line. It is a favorite ter- minus for driving and bicycling, beautiful roads leading thither from the head of Connecticut Avenue or Fourteenth Street, and less desir- able ones returning through the northeastern quarter of the city. Two lines of street-cars approach the Soldiers' Home, giving the tourist an alternate route going and coming; and he should devote EXCURSIONS ABO U T WA SUING TON. 1 49 the better part of a day to this excursion, a good plan being to take a luncheon, to be eaten in the grove about Fort Totten, as no restaurant is open in that region. The direct route out is by the cable-cars north on Seventh Street, (5 cents) and the electric line from the boundary (5 cents) to the Eagle or western gate of the Sol'liers' Home grounds. A short distance beyond the boundary, at the right of the road, are seen the tall brick buildings of Howard University — a collegiate institution estab- lished soon after the war, as an outgrowth of the Freedmen's Bureau, for the education of colored youthis of both sex'.s. Its first president, was Maj.-Gen. O, O. Howard (who had resigned from the army temporarily to undertake this work), and it has maintained itself as a flourishing inst'lution having some 300 students annually. The new Distributing Reservoir, to which the famous and incomplete " Lydecker Tunnel" was intended to carry water from the Potomac conduit, occupies the high ground north of the university; it will probably be made use of before long. The ride out to the end of this road, at the District limits, is a very pleasant one all the way; and if one is fond of a walking, he can do well by going on throi^gh the suburban villages of Potworth and Brightwood to Silver Springs and Takoma — the latter a station on the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad almost at the extreme northern corner of the District. It is then a very pleasant walk back to the Soldiers' Home, along the. Blair and Rock Creek Church roads, near the rail- road, which are bordered by luxuriant hedges of osage orange. This is a fair country road for bicycles, changing to a macadamized turnpike as it nears the city. Near Brightwood, in p?ain view off at the left as you go out upon the cars, are the crumbling parapets of Fort Stevepts, the only one of the Washington fortifications that had any actual work to do in protecting the city. Early s Raid, in July, 1864, was the only serious scare Washington ever had, but it was enough. Panic-si rlcken people fiom the Mary- land villages came flocking in along thi.> road, bringing such of their household goods as they could carry. For two or thn^e days the city was cut off from communication with the outside world, except by way of the Potomac River. The District militia was relnfoiced by every able-bodied man who could be swept up. Department clerks were mustered into companies and sent to the trenches, with any odds and ends of fighting material that could be gathered. There was an immense commotion, but the capital was never so demoral- ized as was alleged of it at the time. Within forty-eight hours, from 150 HANDY GUIDE TO IV A SUING TON. one source and another, 60,000 men had been gathered. Meanwhile the stubborn resistance made some miles up the river, by Gen. Lew Wallace, whose wide reputation as the author of " Ben Hur," " The Fair God," etc., was still to come, who delayed the invading host against frightful odds until the fortifications were well manned, had saved the city from being sacked and the President from capture. It is not too much to say that Wallace's prompt and courageous action did this thing. Wallace w'as forced back, of course, but when Early got him out of the way, and reached the defenses north of the city, he found the old Sixth Corps there, and, contenting himself with a brisk skirmish in the fields in front of Fort Stevens, he fled, carry- ing away the plunder of hundreds of desolated Maryland farm-houses. The President was not only intensely anxious but eagerly interested. Noah Brooks, in his " Washington in Lincoln's Time," sa^^s of him: " He went out to Fort Stevens during the skirmish . . . on July 12, and repeatedly exposed himself in the coolest manner to the fire of the rebel sharpshooters. He had once said to me that he lacked physical courage, although he had a fair share of the moral quality of that virtue; but his calm unconsciousness of danger, while the bullets were flying thick and fast about him, was ample proof that he would not have dropped his musket and run, as he believed he certainly would, at the first sign of physical danger." Those killed in this affair were buried in the little cemetery by the Methodist Church, now called Battle Cemetery. The Soldiers' Home is the forerunner and type of those which were erected in various parts of the country after the Civil War, but it is not in the same class. It is an institution established in 185 1 by the efforts of Gen. Winfield Scott, and out of certain funds received from Mexico, as a retreat for veterans of the Mexican War, and for men of the regular army who have been disabled or who, by twenty years of honorable service and a payment of 12 cents a montl^, have acquired the right of residence there the remainder of their lives. This gives the veterans a pleasing sense of self-support, in addition to which many are able to earn money by working about the build- ings and grounds and in various ways. There are ordinarily about 500 men there, who live under a mild form of military discipline and routine, wear the uniform of the army, and are governed by veteran officers. The affairs of the Home, which has now a fund of over $1,000,000 and a considerable independent income, are administered by a board composed of the general of the army and his principal assistants at the War Department. "The main building is of white marble, three stories in height, and is fashioned after the Norman order of architecture. On the ground are several elegant marble cottages occupied by the officials, a pret^ church of Seneca stone, a capacious hospital building with wid^ I EXCURSIONS ABOUT IV A SHING TON. 151 piazzas, from which charming views of Washington and the Potomac can be had, a fine library building, well-stocked with books and periodicals, and numerous other structures. On the brow of one of the hills stands a bronze statue of General Scott, by Launt Thomp- son, erected by the Home in 1874, at a cost of $18,000. The entire estate is inclosed by a low stone wall, surmounted by a small iron fence of handsome design. Fifty acres are under cultivation, and fine crops of fruits and vegetables are raised. "Near the main building is a large cottage often used by the Presi- dents of the United States as a summer residence. It is surrounded by noble trees, and has a very attractive appearance. Pierce was the first President to pass the summer here, and Buchanan, Lincoln, Johnson, Hayes, and Arthur have preferred its quiet comfort to the statelier life in the White House." In the rear of the Home, on the wooded slope beyond Hare wood Road, lies one of the National military cemeteries^ entered by an arch upon whose pillars are inscribed the names of great Union com- manders in the Civil War. Here rest the remains of about 5,500 Federal and 271 Confederate soldiers, less than 300 of whom are unknown. The grounds contain a pretty stone chapel, in which lies the body of Gen. John A. Logan. Rock Creek Church and its beautiful cemetery, northeast of the Soldiers' Home, and separated from it by the fine Rock Creek Church Road, are well worth examination. This is the oldest house of worship in the District of Columbia, or near it, and was erected in 1719, by the planters of the neighborhood, of bricks imported from England as ballast in empty tobacco ships. It was remodeled, however, in 1S68, and now appears as a small steepleless structure nearly hidden among great trees and sur- rounded by ancient graves and vaults, whose tablets bear the names of the foremost of the old Maryland families and early Washing- tonians. The oldest graves are nearest the church; and one head- stone is pitted with marks of minie balls, showing that some soldiers have used it as a convenient target. The cemetery is still used, and the monument to Peter Force (p. 48) is of special interest. In Miss Lockwood's " Historic Homes" will be found a long incidental account of the history of this sacred spot and the relics still used in the service of the old church. A delightful homeward way is to walk across, a mile or so, through the grove paths of the Soldiers' Home park to the terminus of the Eckington Electric Railroad ; but many Avill be interested, instead, to go around the Military Cemetery, and up the hill to the right, where, in the woods, may still be seen the star-shaped embank- ments of Fort Tot ten, with numerous rifle pits and outworks. This 152 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. is one of the best preserved and most accessible of the old forts, and its parapets command a wide and beautiful landscape. From Fort Totten the Harewood Road may easily be reached and followed southward along the eastern side of the park until it emerges upon the great campus of The Catholic University of America. This is the national insti- tution of higher learning established by all the Catholic bishops of the United States in the Third Plenary Council of Baltimore, and is regarded by Pope Leo XIII as one of the chief honors of his pon- tificate. The grounds comprise seventy acres, and the visitor is at once struck by the stately appearance of the two great university structures already erected. The one to the left is Divinity Hall, erected in 1889. It is a solid stone structure of 266 feet front and hve stories in height ; the lower floor is given up to class rooms, museums, and the library; the upper floors are occupied with the lodgings of the professors and students of the department of divinity; the top story is a well-equipped gym- nasium. The Divinity Chapel is admired by all visitors. The building to the right is known as the McMahon Hall of Philosophy, and was dedicated in 1895. It is built of granite throughout, is 250 feet front, and five stories high. It consists entirely of lecture rooms, class rooms, laboratories, and museums. It accommodates two great schools or faculties, each comprising several departments of study. The School of Philosophy comprises departments of philosophy proper, letters, mathematics, physics, chemistry, biolog}^, and has attached vto it a department of technology giving full instruction in civil, mechanical, and electrical engineering. The School of the Social Sciences comprises departments of ethics and sociology, economics, political science, and law. The former faculty leads up to the degree of Ph. D., the latter to all degrees in law. Immediately adjoining the university are three affiliated colleges, called St. Thomas' College, the Marist College, and the Holy Cross College. Each of these con-. tains from fifteen to twenty students of philosophy and theology, and, their professors. They attend courses in the university. The divinity courses are attended only by ecclesiastics of the Catholic Church. To the legal, philosophical, and scientific courses lay students are admitted, without regard to their religious creed. The old country village and present suburb of Brookland lies just beyond, and is the terminus of the Soldiers' Home and Ecking- ton Electric Railway, which will carry the visitor back from the uni- versity gates or southern entrance to the Soldiers' Home in about twenty-five minutes. Just south of the latter, west of the suburban district of Edgewood, through which the line passes, are the Glen- wood, Prospect Hill, and St. Mary's (Roman Catholic) cemeteries, EXCURSIONS ABOUT WA SHING TON. 153 which contain the graves of many famous persons and some fine monuments. Nearer the city hne is the fine suburb, Eckmgton, in the midst of which, upon a beautifully wooded hill, is the colonial building of the Eckington Hotel, open in summer. This line enters the city along New York Avenue, and terminates at the Treasury. 4. To "The Zoo," Kock Creek National Park, and Chevy Chase. This is an excursion into the northern and most beautiful corner of the District, reached by taking the cable cars out Fourteenth (Street to the boundary, and then (by transfer) the Chevy Chase Ime. The latter extends from Sixth Street (connecting with the Seventh Street line) along U Street west, through Hancock Circle (where New Hampshire Avenue crosses Sixteenth Street), and thence turns up the hill 'at Eighteenth Street, and goes across Rock Creek, and out into the country, along Connecticut Avenue Extended, passing on \ its way half way around the Zoological Park. A zoological garden is among the most recent additions to the sights of the capital. Previous to its organization and the purchase of this site of about \ 167 acres in 1890 the National Museum had accumulated by gift I many live animals, but had no means of caring for them; these at i once became the nucleus of the new collection, which w^as placed J under the general charge of the Smithsonian Institution, with Frank Baker, M. D., as superintendent. Two definite objects have been in view here. The original idea was not a park for public exhibition i purposes — a popular "Zoo" — but a reservation in which there might be bred and maintained representatives of many American animals threatened with extinction. Congress, however, enlarged and modified this notion b}'- adding the exhibition features, making the place a pleasure-ground as well as an experiment station, and consequently imposing upon the District of Columbia one-half the cost of its purchase and maintenance. Nevertheless, the managers I do all they can to carry out the original, more scientific intention. How to 7'each the Park. — The car conductors are in the habit of i carrying passengers around to the western gate; but a better way is \ to leave the car immediately after crossing the bridge, where a nar- row lane leads to a flight of rustic steps down the hill to the brink of Rock Creek, near the bear dens. No admittance charge or fee of any kind is required, and the garden is open daily, including Sundays. The Bear Dens are the best of their kind in the country, being rude caves blasted out of the cliff left by an abandoned quarry, which form natural retreats for their big tenants, while capacious 154 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. iron cages - enclose door yards well supplied with bathing-pools. All of the varieties of American bears — polar, grizzly, cinnarhon, and black — are here, and may be compared at one view. Crossing Rock Creek, a five-minutes' walk brings you to the prin- cipal Animal House, which is a commodious stone building, well lighted and well ventilated, and having on its southern side an annex of very fine out-door cages, where the great carnivora and other beasts dwell in warm weather. The collection is not very large, as the funds do not at present allow of the purchase of animals, which must be ob- tained by gift or exchange. Captures in the Yellowstone National Park, however, are permitted for the benefit of this garden, and have supplied many specimens. The collection here now comprises one female and two male lions. One of the males, " Lobengula," is a remarkably large and healthy monarch, born in the jungles of Lobengula's country, Mashonaland, East Africa. His dam was killed by an ivory merchant, H. C. Moore, who captured and brought to the coast three cubs, but only this one survived the transatlantic voyage. Very few jungle-bred lions exist in captivity. The leopard is another wild animal, born in the forests along the Lualaba River, one of the highest tributaries of the Kongo, in Central Africa. It was brought down to the coast in 1893, and then sent to the United States by R. D. Mohun, U. S. Consul at Booma. Two pumas complete the list of large cats. Of the smaller carnivora, the garden possesses a few of note, one of which is the tayra (Galictis barbara), a large, dark brown. Central American weasel. The kink- ajou or cacomistle, from Mexico, is also worth attention. Various other quadrupeds, reptiles, and birds are owned and placed here; and during the winter a hippopotamus, an Indian rhinoceros, and some other rare beasts, loaned by traveling menageries, are usually to be seen. The hardier animals (except a few antelopes and kangaroos, which have a stable) are quartered out of doors all the year round in wire enclosures scattered about the grounds. These are all healthy and happy to a gratifying degree, and as a result they pro- duce young freely. The herds of bison, elk, and deer were recruited mainly from the Yellowstone Park. The former occupy adjacent paddocks upon the rising ground north of the animal house, and the latter enjoy extensive pastures and a picturesque thatched stable some- what to the east, on a hillside sloping down to Rock Creek. In an- other quarter are to be seen the cages of the wolves, foxes, and dogs — among the last several Eskimo dogs, from both Alaska and Green- land. 77^^' /?(:'<:z7^<'r5, however, probably constitute the most singular and interesting of all the features of the garden at present. They consist of a colony of seven, received in 1S94. They were given the wooded ravine of a little branch of Rock Creek, where they at once set about cutting down trees, adajiting to their purposes the brush supplied to them, burrowing in the banks of the stream and construct- ing dams and houses, precisely as in a state of nature. The public EXCURSIONS ABOUT IV A SHING TON. 155 generally is not admitted to this nook, but those especially interested can usually see the " improvements," if not the clever workmen them- selves, by application to the superintendent or head keeper, Mr. Blackburn. The garden has two fine young Indian elephants — both males — " Golddust" and " Dunk." The latter was presented to the park by Adam Forepaugh in i8gi; at the beginning of 1896 he was about nine feet tall, and weighed 9,000 pounds. ' ' Golddust " has been loaned by Forepaugh, is seven feet and eight inches tall, and weighs 5,600 pounds. In leaving the Park, the visitor will go to the western entrance along the board walk and carriage-drive; and can there, if he wishes, take the electric cars out to Chevy Chase. This is a charming suburb, just beyond the District line, at the extremity of Connecticut Avenue Extended, which is cut straight across the broken and picturesque region west of Rock Creek. The forested gorge of this romantic stream, east of the avenue, and embracing most of the region be- tween it and the proposed extension of Sixteenth Street, or " Execu- tive Avenue," has been acquired and reserved by the Government as a public park; but as yet no improvements have been attempted, and it remains a wild rambling-ground full of grand possibilities for the landscape artist. Chevy Chase consists of a group of handsome country villas, among which an old mansion has been converted into a "country- club," with tennis-courts, golf-links, etc., attached, and here the young people of the fashionable set meet for out-door amusements, in which fox-hunting with hounds,- after the British fashion, is prom- inent. A large and beautiful hotel was started here, but the building is now occupied as a school. An additional fare is charged for travel beyond the circle at the District line, and there is little to attract the traveler farther northward. Instead of turning back, however, it is a good plan to walk southwestward eight or ten minutes, passing old Fort Reno, and striking the Tennallytown electric road at the Glen Echo Junction (p. 159), where he can return direct to Georgetown, or can go on to Glen Echo and then up to Cabin John Bridge or Great Falls, or back to Georgetown by the electric line along the bank of the Potomac. 5. Georg-etown and its Vicinity. Georgetown, now West Washington, was a flourishing village and seaport (the river channel having been deeper previous to the con- struction of bridges) before there was a thought of placing the capital here; and in its hospitable houses the early officials found pleasanter homes than the embryo Federal city then afforded. Its narrow, well shaded, hilly streets are yet quaint with reminders of those days, and it has residents who still consider their circle of families the only 156 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. persons "true blue." Georgetown is still a port of entry, but its business does little more than pay the expenses of the office. Before the era of railroads Georgetown had distinct importance, due to the fact that it was the tidewater terminus of the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, which was finished up the river as far as the Great Falls in 1784, and in 1828 was carried through to Cumberland, Md., at a cost of $13,000,000. It never realized the vast expectations of its promoters, but was of great service to Georgetown, and is still used for the transport of coal, grain, and other slow freights. The original bridge over the Potomac was constructed to carry the canal down to Alexandria, whence its name; but that use of the bridge and of the canal itself below this point were long ago abandoned. Pennsylvania Avenue forms the highway toward Georgetown, but stops at Rock Creek. The cars turn off to K Street, cross the deep ravine over a bridge borne upon the arched water-mains, and then run east to the end of the street at the Aqueduct Bridge. Here a three-story Unioji Railway Station is building. Into its lowest level is to come the line from Arlington and Alexandria, Va., over the bridge. The second level will accommodate the cars of the Pennsylvania Avenue line; and the top story will form the terminus of the electric railway to the Great Falls (p. 159). Broad stairways and elevators connect the three floors. Georgetown does not contain much to attract the hasty sight-seer, though much for the meditative historian. A large sign, painted upon a brick house near the Aqueduct Bridge, informs him that that is the Key Mansion — the home for several years of Francis Scott Key, the author of " The Star Spangled Banner," w^ho resided here after the War of 1812, became district-attorney, and died in 1843. Similar personal memoranda belong to several other old houses here. On Analostan, for example — the low forested island below the farther end of Aqueduct Bridge — lived the aristocratic Masons, during the early years of the Republic, cultivating a model farm and entertaining royally. One of the latest of them was John M. Mason, author of the Fugitive Slave Law, and an associate of Mr. Slidell in the Confederate mission to England, which was interrupted by Wilkes in the Treiit affair. The most prominent institution in this locality, however, is Georgetown College. This is the School of Arts and Sciences of Georgetown University, which is under the direction of the Fathers of the Society of Jesus. This school, consisting of three departments — postgraduate, collegiate, and preparatory — is the oldest Catholic institution of higher learning in the United States, having been founded in 1789. The college was chartered as a university by act of Congress in 181 5, and in 1833 was empowered by the Holy EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 157 See to grant degrees in philosophy and theology. The present main building, begun in 1878, is an excellent specimen of Rhenish-Roman- esque architecture, and its grounds cover seventy-eight acres, includ- ing the beautiful woodland ' ' walks " and a magnificent campus. The Riggs Library of over 70,000 volumes contains rare and curious works. The Coleman Museum has many fine exhibits, among them interesting Colonial relics and valuable collections of coins and medals. Not far from the college, on a prominent hill, is the Astro- nomical Observatory, where many original investigations are made as well as class instruction given. Thirty-nine members of the faculty and 296 students comprise the present census of this school. The School of Law, situated in the vicinity of the district courts, is one of the best in America, numbering on its staff several leading jurists; the faculty for 1895 numbered fifteen, the students, 304. The School of Medicine is fully equipped for thorough medical training under distinguished specialists; the faculty numbers 49, the students, 125. The total number of students in the university in 1895 was 725. Oak Hill Cemetery, on the southern bank of Rock Creek near P Street, is a beautiful burying ground rising in terraces and containing the graves of many distinguished men and women. It is reached by the line of the Metropolitan street-cars, more commonly called the " F" Street line; leaving the cars at Thirtieth Street, a walk of two squares. north, will bring the visitor to the entrance. " Near the gateway is the chapel built in the style of architectiire of Henry VIII. This is matted by ivy brought from ' Melrose Abbey. ' In front of the chapel is the monument of John Howard Payne, the author of ' Home, Sweet Home!' who had been buried in 1852 in the cemetery near Tunis, Africa, and there remained until, at the expense' of Mr. Corcoran, his bones were brought to this spot, and in '83 were re-interred with appropriate ceremonies. The statue of William Pinkney is near here also (he was the Protestant Episcopal Bishop of Maryland, and nephew of William Pinkney, the great Maryland lawyer). It represents that prelate in full canonical robes, and was dedicated to his memory by Mr. Corcoran, who was the friend of his youth, the comfort of his declining years. The mauso- leum of Mr. Corcoran for his family is a beautiful specimen of mortu- ary architecture; this is in the northwestern section of the cemetery, whilst in the southeastern is the mausoleum of the Van Ness family, whose leader married the heiress, Marcia, daughter of David Burns, one of the original proprietors of the site of Washington City. This tomb is a model of the Temple of the Vesta at Rome. The cemetery comprises twenty-five acres, incorporated in 1849, one-half of which, and an endowment of $90,000 were the donation of Mr. William W. Corcoran. Here were buried Chief Justice Chase, Secretary of War 158 HANDY GUiDE TO WASHINGTON. Stanton, the great Professor Joseph Henry, and many others illus- trious in American annals." — Sights of Washmgton. Extremely pleasant rambles may be taken to the north and east of this cemetery, and it is not far across the hills to The Naval Observatory. This is a new astronomical station of the Government, under control of the navy and presided over by an officer of high rank, whose first object is the gathering and collection of information of use to mariners, such as precision of knowledge of latitude and longitude, variation of the compass, accuracy of chro- nometers and other instruments used in the navigation of ships of war, and similar information more or less allied to astronomy. Purely scientific astronomical work is also carried on, and the equip- ment of telescopes and other instruments is complete, enabling the staff of learned men — naval and civilian— attached to the institution to accomplish notable results in the advancement of that dejjartment of knowledge. The casual sight-seer will find nothing to attract him; but the special inquirer will be welcomed by the officers at all suitable hours. It is reached by the Tennallytown electric line. This new observatory dates from 1892, when it was moved from the wooded elevation, called Braddock's Hill, at the Potomac end of New York Avenue, which it had occupied for nearly a century. This ground was a reservation originally set apart at the instance of Washington, who wished to see planted there the foundations of the National University — the dream of his last years. It is called University Square to this day, and a proposition has lately been made that Washington's idea should be partly carried out by the establishment there of a national gallery of architecture and art. 6. Georgetown to Tennallytown and Glen Echo. From Georgetown an electric road rims north out High Street and the Tennallytown road to the District line, where it branches into two lines. Leaving the city quickly it makes its way through a pretty suburban district, out into a region of irregular hills and dales, where, about one mile from the starting point, the new United States Naval Observatory is seen about a quarter of a mile to the right. Just beyond its entrance is an industrial school. The general district at the left is Wesley Heights, nineiy acres of which, and the name, are the property of a Methodist association which proposes to establish there a highly equipped uni- versity, to be called the American, modeled upon the plan of Ger- man universities, and open to both sexes. The site of the buildings will be west of Massachusetts Avenue where it intersects Forty- \ / NEW YORK and WASHINGTON, D.C Are connected by a delightful DAILY ALL-WATER ROUTE in the superb Ocean Steamships of the Old Dominion Line OLD POINT COMFORT, VA. TO AND FROM New York and Old Point Comfort, or Norfolk, Va., And the beautiful new Sound Steamers of the Norfolk & Washington, D. C, Steamboat Co. First-class tickets include meals and stateroom accommodations on the Old Dominion Line Steamers. For full information, rates, schedules, etc., apply to O. D. S. S. CO., Pier 26, N. R., or Norfolk & Washington, D. C, Steam- New York. boat Company, Washington, D. C. W. L GUILLAUDEU, Vice-Pres't and Traffic Mgr., JOHN CALLAHAN, Gen'l Mgr. EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 159 fourth Street, forming University Circle. Work is beginning on the buildings, and the endowment is growing. The district west of the road is Woodley Heights, Woodley adjoining it further east along the valley of Rock Creek. Tunlaw Heights is another local " subdi- vision " here; and somewhat farther on is Oak View, where there is a lofty observatory, open to anyone who cares to climb it, and obtain the wider outlook, embracing a large part of the city. A few years ago there was a great " boom " in suburban villa sites near here, and many noted persons built the fine houses which are scattered over the ridges in all directions. Among them was President Cleveland, whose house, " Red Top" (from the color of the roof), is passed by the cars just beyond Oak View. It was afterward sold by the Presi- dent to great advantage; and during his second term he occupied another summer home not far to the eastward of this site. The cross- road here runs straight to the Zoological Park, a trifle over a mile eastward. Woodley Inn is a summer hotel on the left of the road, which keeps northward along a ridge with wide views, for a mile and a quarter farther to Tennallytown, lately become a suburb of consid- erable population, largely increased by families from the city in sum- mer. A road to the left (west) from here gives a very picturesque walk of a mile and a half over to the Receiving Reservoir, and a mile farther will take you to Little Falls, or the Chain Bridge. Up at the right, on the highest point of land in the District (400 feet), the new reservoir is seen, occupying the site of Fort Reno, one of the most important of the circle of forts about the capital during the Civil War. A wooded knoll, some distance to the left, shows the crumb- ling earthworks of a lesser redoubt near the river road, which branches off northwest from the village. Three-quarters of a mile beyond Tennallytown the limit of the District of Columbia is reached, and i\iQ Junction of the line to Glen Echo. The main line has tracks and runs occasional cars northward as far as Bethesda, proposing, after a time, to extend its rails to Rockville, and ulti- mately, no doubt, to Frederick, Md. The Glen Echo Liiie runs a car every half hour (fare 5 cents) along a winding road through the woods to the Conduit Road and bank of the Potomac, where it connects with the Great Falls Road. 7. Georgetown to the Great Falls of the Potomac. The Georgetown & Great Falls Railroad Company operates an electric line, opened in 1896, to the Great Falls of the Potomac, 160 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. which affords one of the most delightful excursions out of Washing- ton. Its large trolley cars leave the Union Station, in Georgetown, and take a high course overlooking the river valley, which becomes much narrower and more gorge-like above the city, with the Vir- ginia banks very steep, rocky, and broken by quarries. The rails are laid through the woods, and gradually descend to the bank of the canal (p. 156), which skirts the foot of the bluff. About three miles above Georgetown is the Chain Bj^z'dge, so called because the earliest bridge here, where the river for some two miles is confined within a narrow, swift, and deep channel on the Virginia side, was made of suspended chains. The lofty bank is broken here by the ravine of Pimmit Run, making a convenient place for several roads to meet and cross the river. The bluffs above it were crowned with strong forts, for this was one of the principal approaches to Washing- ton. A mile and a half above the Chain Bridge, having run through the picturesque woods behind High, or Sycamore, Island, owned by a sportsmen's club, you emerge to find the river a third of a mile wide again, and dashing over black rocks and ledges in the series of rapids called the Little Falls of the Potomac. The wild beauty of the locality makes it a favorite one for picnicking parties, and bass fishing is always excellent. The Maryland bank becomes higher and more rugged above Little Falls, and takes the name of Glett Echo Heights, where a speculative town has been platted, and where the Glen Echo electric road (p. 159) terminates. Whether the rustic hillside restaurant, called The Castle in the Air, which stood here and was destroyed by fire in 1894, wnll ever be rebuilt, remains to be seen. Half a mile farther are passed the large and extraordinary rough stone buildings of a " Chautauqua Assembly," which attempted to establish here a school and colony of summer residents similar to that on the shore of Chautauqua Lake, in New York. The enter- prise did not succeed well, partly because the locality proved malarial, an insalubrity charged to the damp fogs that arise from the river- gorge at night. The river here is broad and rocky, with pretty banks all the way up to the ravine of Cabin John Run, where the fine arch of the celebrated bridge (p. 161) gleams through the trees. The remain- der of the run (five miles) is through a wild, wooded region at the edge of the canal and river, which is again narrow, deep, and broken by islands flooded at high water, with high, ravine-cut banks. This is a favorite place with Washingtonians for fishing with rod and fly, from the banks; Daniel Webster often came here for this purpose. EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 161 The Great Falls of the Potomac are a series of bold cascades forming a drop of 80 feet within a few hundred yards of distance, very pretty but hardly deserving the panegyrics bestowed by some early writers. The place will always be exceedingly attractive, how- ever, especially to artists and anglers. The appearance of the falls has been considerably modified, and probably enhanced, by the structures of the City Water Works, for this is the source of Wash- ington's public water supply. The water is conveyed to the city through a brick conduit, which runs along the top of the Maryland bank, and is overlaid by the macadamized driveway called the Con- duit Road. This work of engineering meets its first serious difficulty at Cabin John Run, where a stone arch leaps across the ravine in a single span — unequaled elsewhere — of 220 feet. Its center is 100 feet above the little stream, and the structure is as graceful to the eye as it is admirable to the mind. A neat hotel stands here, which is not only a favorite stopping place for driving and 'cycling parties, but is filled in summer with regular boarders. The grounds are pleasant, and the river and canal have attractions for boatmen, bathers, and fishermen; while the autumn brings good shooting for quail and grouse, foxes, squirrels, and rabbits, and only a few miles farther out for deer and turkeys. During the Civil War this upper valley of the river was filled with spies, smugglers between the armies, thieves, and all the loose ends of a broken society, and almost relapsed into its primitive bar- barism. Even now there is little use of the land, thousands of acres of which have gone back to worthless "old field pines "and oak brush. The soil is poor, but the people are poorer, and have not even taken the trouble to restore fences burned by raiders during the war. The Co7idiiit Road is kept in excellent order by the Government and is the only one ridable for a long distance in all seasons by wheel- men. It is easily reached by various cross-cuts from the northern parts of the city, and bicycles are always visible upon it, as well as carriages. It is a delightful run from Cabin John Bridge or Glen Echo down to Georgetown along this road. The gorge of the river, with its numerous rapids, bordered by rocky banks, is always inter- esting. A mile below Little Falls, on the border of the District, the Receiving Reservoir, ensconced like a natural lake among wooded hills, is passed, and thence houses appear more frequently. Every mile or so there is a " wayside inn," and you get a glimpse of more distant country homes of the old regime. Below Chain Bridge the river gradually widens and roughens, and the road ascends to the 162 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. summit of the Palisades of the Potomac, whence a glorious view is obtained down the valley. The great Distributing Reservoir is skirted, and the road gradually descends into Georgetown. 8. To Bladensburg- and Kendall Green. Bladensburg is a quiet Maryland village, some seven miles north- east, on the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad. It is a port on the Ana- costia, to which large boats formerly ascended with goods, and went back laden with farm produce. Through it ran the stage road from the 'north; and here, August 24, 1814, the feeble American army met the British, under Ross and Cockburn, who had marched over from their landing place on the Patuxent River, intent upon the capture of the Yankee capital. The Americans, partly by blunder- ing and partly by panic (except some sailors under Commodore Barney), ran away after the first attack, and left the way open for the redcoats to take and burn the town as they pleased; but they inflicted a remarkably heavy loss upon the invaders. "It is a favorite drive with Washingtonians to-day," remarks Mr. Todd, in his Story of Washington, " over the smooth Bladens- burg pike to the quaint old village. Dipping into the ravine where Barney made his stand, you have on the right the famous dueling ground, enriched with some of the noblest blood of the Union. A mile farther on, you come out upon the banks of the Eastern Branch, here an inconsiderable mill stream, easily forded, though spanned by a bridge some thirty yards in length. On the opposite shore gleam through the trees the houses of Bladensburg, very little changed since the battle-day. Some seventy yards before reaching the bridge, the Washington pike is joined by the old Georgetown post- road, which comes down from the north to meet it at an angle of forty-five degrees. The gradually rising triangular field between these t:wo roads, its heights now crowned by an elegant club-house of modern design, was the battleground." A string of pleasant suburban villages nearl}'- join one another along the railway and turnpike — Highland, Wiley Heights, Rives, Woodbridge, Langdon, Avalon Heights, and Winthrop Heights, or Montello. The last is well inside the District and brings us back to Mount Olivet Cemetery burial ground, lying between the turnpike and the railway near the city boundary, which has the sad distinction of containing the bodies of Mrs. Surratt, one of the conspirators in the assassination of Lincoln, and of Wirz, the cruel keeper of Ander- son ville prison. The National Fair Grounds, opposite Mount Olivet and west of the railroad, contain the Ivy City race track, which is the scene of EXCURSIONS ABOUT WASHINGTON. 163 annual races that call out all Washington. The suburban "addition," Montello, is north of the fair grounds, and south of them is Ivy- City, with Trinidad east of the railroad. The southern part of Ivy City is occupied by the extensive grounds of the Columbia Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, popularly known as Kendall Green. This institution was incorporated in 1857, and is for the free education of deaf-mute children of sailors and soldiers of the United States, as also of the children of the District so afflicted. It was greatly indebted in its early years to the benefactions of the Hon. Amos Kendall, who gave land, money, and buildings toward its establishment. The directors called as conductor Edward M. Gallaudet, who had been teaching in the Hartford School for the Deaf — the first in America, founded by his father in 181 7. In 1864 Congress authorized the young institution at Washington to exercise the full functions of a college, and a department for the higher edu- cation of the deaf was at once established, called Gallaudet College, in honor of Thomas Hopkins Gallaudet, founder of deaf-mute educa- tion in America, and the primary department is called the Kendall School, in honor of Mr. Kendall. Both school and college have received handsome appropriations from Congress, and the institution now occupies a beautiful domain of 100 acres, and has ample and tasteful buildings. The number of students is now eighty-five in the college and fifty in the school. All have opportunity to learn to speak, the system of instruction including both manual and oral methods. Poor students are received on very liberal terms. Visitors are admitted on Thursdays between the hours of 9.00 and 3.00. Excursions by Steamer or Rail to Fortress Monroe, the Bull Run Battlefield, Fredericksburg, Harper's Ferry, the Luray Caverns in Virginia, and to Annapolis in IMaryland, are often made from Washington — frequently on special occasions at low rates. THE DIPLOMATIC CORPS. - Foreign Embassies and Legations to tlie United States. Argentine Republic. — Legation, No. 1521 K Street. Senor Don Vicente J. Dominguez, First Secretary and Charge d' Affaires. Austria-Htcngary. — Legation, No. 1721 Rhode Island Avenue. Mr. Landislaus Hengelmiiller von Hengervar, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary.* Belgiicm. — Legation, No. 1336 I Street. Mr. Alfred Le Ghait, Minister. Brazil. — Legation, No. 1800 N Street. Senhor Salvador de Men- donga, Minister. Chile. — Legation, No. 1319 K Street. Seiior Don Domingo Gana, Minister. China. — Legation, No. 2703 Fourteenth Street. Mr. Yang Yli, Minister (absent); Mr. Ho Yen Shing, Secretary of Legation. Colombia. — Legation, No. 921 Farragut Square. Senor Don Jose Marcelino Hurtado, Minister (absent); Senor Don Julio Rengifo, Sec- retary of Legation and Charge d'Affaires. Costa Rica. — Legation,. No. 1509 Twentieth Street. Seiior Don Joaquin Bernardo Calvo, Secretary of Legation and Charge d'Affaires. Denmark. — Legation, No. 1409 Twentieth Street. Mr. Constan- tin Brun, Minister. Dominican Republic. — Senor Alejandro Woz y Gil, Charge d'Af- faires, 31 and 33 Broadway, New York. France. — Embassy, No. 1710 H Street. Mr. J. Patenotre, Ambas- sador. Germany. — Embassy, No. 1435 Massachusetts Avenue. Baron Max von Thielmann, Ambassador. Great Britain. — Embassy, No. 1300 Connecticut Avenue. The Right Honorable Sir Julian Pauncefote, G. C. B. , G. C. M. G. , Ambas- sador. Guatemala. — Legation, No. 1525 Eighteenth Street (entrance on Madison Street). Seiior Don Antonio Lazo Arriaga, INIinister. Haiti. — Legation in New York City, No. loi Pearl Street. Mr. Clement Hsentjens, Minister. Hawaii. — Legation, No. 1105 Sixteenth vStreet. Mr. Francis M. Hatch, Minister. Honduras.— Legation, No. 1525 Eighteenth Street. Senor Don Antonio Lazo Arriaga, Minister. (See Guatemala.) *This is the full title of all ministers except Holland's and Portugal's " Min- isters Resident." The full title of the ambas.sadors is Ambassador Extraordi- nary and Plenipotentiary. These titles are abbreviated in this list. (104) THE DIPLOMA TIC CORPS. 465 Italy. — Embassy, No. 917 Sixteenth Street. Baron cle Fava, Ambassador. Japa7i. — Legation, No. 1310 N Street. Mr. Shinichiro Kurino, Minister. A'c'r*?*^.— Legation, Iowa Circle. Mr. Pak Yong Kiu, Secretary and Charge d' Affaires. Mexico. — Legation, No. 1413 I Street (entrance by side street). Senor Don Matias Romero, Minister. Netherlands. — Legation No. 1013 Fifteenth Street. Mr. G. de Weckherlin, Minister. Nicaragua. — Portugal. — Ltiis Augusto de Moura Pinta d'Azevedo Taveira, in charge of the affairs of the Legation, Willard's Hotel. Russia. — Legation, No. 1829 I Street. Prince Cantacuzene, min- ister (absent); Mr. Alexandre de Somow. First Secretary and Charge d' Affaires. Spain. — Legation, No. 1706 Twentieth Street. Senor Don Enrique Dupuy de Lome, Minister. Sweden and Norivay. — Legation, No. 201 1 Q Street. Mr. J. A. W. Grip, Minister. Switzerlajid. — Legation, No. 15 18 K Street. Mr. J. B. Pioda, Minister. Turkey. — Legation, No. 1802 R Street. Mavroyeni Bey, Minister. Venesicela. — Legation, No. 2 Iowa Circle. Senor Jose Andrade, Minister. 16 LIST OF CHURCHES IN WASH INGTON. Baptist Churches: E Street. — E Street, near Sixth Street. Fifth. — D Street, near Four-and-a-half Street. First. — O and Sixteenth streets. Gay Street. — Georgetown, Thirty -first and O streets. German Baptist Brethren. — 318 Pennsylvania Avenue, S. E. Grace. — South Carolina Avenue, Ninth and D streets, S. E. Kendall Branch.— Wmth. Street, below B Street, S. W. Marylajid Avenue. — Maryland Avenue and Fourteenth Street, N. E. Metropolitan. — A and Sixth streets, N. E. Second. — Virginia Avenue and Fourth Street, N. E. Baptist churches also in Anacostia, East Washington, Brookland, and Tennallytown. For the fifty colored Baptist churches, see City Director}^ Congregational : First. — Tenth and G streets. Mount Pleasajit. — Howard Avenue, between Fourteenth and Sixteenth streets. Fifth.— ^00 I Street, N. E. Lincoln Memorial (colored). — Eleventh and R streets. Plymouth (colored). — 2464 Sixth Street. Christian (Disciples of Christ) : Ninth 5/r^t'/.— Ninth and D streets, N. E. Vermont Avenue. — Vermont Avenue, near N Street. Episcopal Churches: y^j'r-f^zj'/bw.— Massachusetts Avenue and Twelfth Street. Christ. — G Street, between Sixth and Seventh streets, S. E. Or/.y/. — Georgetown, O and Thirty-first streets. Church of the Advent.— Vi and Second streets. Epiphany.— O Street, near Thirteenth Street. Chapel, C and Twelfth streets, S. W. Incarnation. — N and Twelfth streets. Grace. — Georgetown, 1029 Thirty-second Street. Grace. — D and Ninth streets, S. W. Holy Cross. — Oregon Avenue. King Hall Chapel (colored). — 2420 Sixth Street. (166) LTST OF CHURCHES IN WASHINGTON. 167 St. Andrew's. — Corcoran and Fourteenth streets. Chapel, Mas- sachusetts Avenue and Eighteenth Street. St. Jaincs\ — Eighth Street, near Massachusetts Avenue, N. E. St. Jo/ill's. — H and Sixteenth streets (Lafayette Square). St. JoJui s. — O Street and Potomac Avenue. St. Luke's (colored). — Fifteenth Street and MadisoM Avenue. St. Margaret's.— At the head of Connecticut Avenue. St. Mark's.— A and Third streets, S. E. St. Paul's. — Twenty-third Street, near Pennsylvania Avenue. St. Stephen's. — Kenesaw Avenue and Fourteenth Street. ] St. Tkojnas'. — Eighteenth Street and Madison Avenue. Trinity. — Third and C streets. There are also Episcopal churches in Alexandria, Anacostia, Bennings, Bladensburg, and Rock Creek. ; Friends (Quakers) : Meeti7ig House. — 1811 I Street. Jewish Synagogues : \ Adas Israel (orthodox). — G and Sixth streets. \ Agoodas Achitn. — 624 K Street. i Washi7igton Congregation. — Eighth Street, between H and I : streets. J Lutheran Churches : Christ. — New Jersey Avenue and Morgan Street. Co7tcordia. — G and Twentieth streets. \ Grace. — Thirteenth and Corcoran streets. Keller Memorial. — Nineteenth Street and Maryland Avenue, N. E. ; Luther Place Memorial. — Vermont Avenue and Fourteenth ^ Street. I Redeemer. — Eighth Street, above Florida Avenue. j Reformatio7i. — Pennsylvania Avenue and Second Street. 1 St. Johan7iis (German Evangelical). — 320 Four-and-a-half Street, \ S. W. 1 St. vl/rtr/&'.y.— Twelfth and C streets, S. W. \ St. Paul's (English). — Eleventh and H streets. \ Tritiity. — Fourth and E streets. '\ Zion. — Sixth and P streets. ^ Methodist Churches : Calvary (M. E.) — Georgetown, Thirty-fifth and I streets. CentraH^lQt\v. Prot.)— Twelfth and M streets. Church of God {Meth.. Prot.)— K Street, between Thirteenth and Fourteenth streets, S. E. .: Congress Street (Meth. Prot.)— Georgetown, Thirty-first Street, between M and N streets. ] Douglas Memorial (M. E.)— Eleventh and H streets, N. E. : Dumbarton Avenue (M. E.) — 3133 Dumbarton Avenue. Epworth (M. E. South). — Seventh and A streets, N. E. Fifteenth Street (M. E.)— Fifteenth and R streets. ! 168 HANDY GUIDE TO WASHINGTON. First (Meth. Prot.)— Virginia Avenue and Fifth Street. S. E. Fletcher Chapel QA. E.)— New York Avenue and Fourth Street. Foundry (M. E.)— G and Fourteenth streets. Gorsiich (M. E.) — L and Four-and-a-half streets, S. W. Grace (M. E.)— Ninth and S streets. Hanilzne (M. E.) — Ninth and P streets. Mission, 214 R Street. Indepeiident (M. E.)— Eleventh Street, between G and I streets. Langdon Memorial {)A. E.)— -1337 Tenth Street. i^rt^A'>;/l Australia, Round-the-World. EDWIN HAWLEY, L. H. NUTTING, Ass't CenM Traffic Mgr., Eastern Pass'r Agent, 149 Broadway, and I Battery Place (Washington Buildinc), New York 5. F. B. MORSE, G. P. & T. A., T, H. GOODMAN, G. P. & T. New Orleans, La. San Francisco, Cal. HIO^ «o '^ !/ -i N. MANCHESTER 2^6^ INDIANA 46962 I,