Digitized by tine Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/ramblesinyucatan01norm 7-1 mmM'iu^.T^ts., O ^ £> 1; '*-jJf '^^SE"'''" fin' f^^' ^^/ ,i\\ l^Sr Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1842, By J. & H. G. LANGLEy, m the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New York. }■ r? STEREOTYPED BY EEDFIELD AND SAVAGE, 13 Chambers street, N. Y. R. CRAIGHEAD, PRINTER, 112 FULTON ST. PREFACE To those who intend to bestow upon the following pages the honor of a perusal, it may seem almost supererogatory for the author to mention, that it has formed no part of his purpose to prepare a book which should owe its leading interest to its literary merits. His life has been necessarily more devoted to the dissemination of books than to the study of their internal fabrication ; he has had but slender opportunities for the cultivation of letters, and little of the preparation requisite for a task, to the results of which he now solicits the candid consideration of the public. Circumstances, however, of which all that is worthy of detail will be found in the following pages, brought under the author's observation a portion of our continent which was strewed with gigantic and monumental ruins of ancient cities, and which, to the several departments of Cosmogony, Archaeology, and Eth- nography, appeared in his eyes to be of vast importance. Im- pressed with this conviction, although the author left his country without the remotest intention of making a book upon any subject whatever, or even of seeing the wonderful places he has attempted to describe, yet, with very inadequate scientific qualifications — Avithout instruments, except a knife and compass, and without a companion, save an Indian boy — entirely ignorant of the country and its people — he was enabled to explore many objects of in- terest and curiosity ; and he has resolved to present the substance of his observations and researches, in as succinct a manner as pos- sible, that those who are competent to avail themselves of his " ors may digest and present them to the public in such a form as "^ill most contribute to the advancement of true science. 4 PREFACE. It is, therefore, to the facts which it has been the author's privi- lege to witness and reveal, and not to the garniture of those facts, that he looks, for the interest Avhich he desires to awaken in the minds of his readers, and upon which he relies for his own justifi? cation in having for once trespassed ultra crepidam into the charmed circle of literary enterprise. The almost universal curiosity which has manifested itself in every quarter through which public feeling has utterance, concerning the vast and unexplained ruins of our hemisphere, found in Central America and Yucatan, has not been, in modern times at least, excelled by that upon any subject not involving some immediate and practical interest, not even except- ing the discoveries of modem antiquarians in Egypt. It is neither the author's duty nor purpose to analyze this movement, or to dis- cern its cause ; it only concerns him to show that he had good reason for presuming that further developments of, and explora- tions among these mysterious relics of antiquity, could not fail to awaken some portion of that interest which the public mind, in this country at least, has already manifested. A portion of the ruins which are noticed in detail in the follow- ing pages had never been visited, to the author's knowledge, by any modern traveller before his arrival. Others, which had been summarily alluded to, he has portrayed as elaborately and ade- quately as his circumstances and scientific qualifications would admit ; and, he has no hesitation in saying, far more minutely than they had ever before been described. In corroboration of these remarks, he ventures to call the reader's attention to the chapters which include the ruins of Chi-Chen, of Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal, of which cities, the last only excepted — to which Mr. Stephens devotes a few sentences near the conclusion of his re- cent popular work upon this subject — no other published ac- counts, it is believed, have appeared. The author avails himself of the present opportunity to make those acknowledgments to the people of Yucatan which could not be incorporated with propriety in the body of his work. He feels himself under grateful obligations for the uniform kind- ness which he received at their hands ; and he begs to assure those of his American friends who may feel disposed to visit the PREFACE. ^ province of Yucatan, that whatever inconveniences they may expe- rience indirectl)'^ from an imfavorable climate and an unsettled political organization, they may count upon meeting, among the higher ranks of the Yucatecos, a kindliness of feeling and a spon- taneity of hospitality which will compare favorably with their experience in any other portion of the globe. In acknowledging his obligations to the friends who have as- sisted him in the preparation of these pages, he would be guilty of great injustice did he not tender his most sincere thanks to an American gentlenian, who has long resided in Yucatan, to whom he is indebted for most of the facts connected with the political history of that country, which are embodied in the thir- teenth chapter. The long residence of that gentleman in the coun- try, and his evident familiarity with its political history, give the iauthor reason to rely implicitly upon his acquaintance with the subject, as well as upon his fidelity as an historian. The author regrets that he is not permitted to give the name of the gentleman to whose aid he is indebted for the philological remarks contained in the fourteenth chapter, which he ventures to believe will prove to the scholar and the antiquarian not the least interesting feature of the work. It has been the author's intention upon all occasions to acknowl- edge his indebtedness to any preceding or cotemporary writer in appropriate modes and places in the text, and he believes that he has seldom failed in his aim ; at the same time, he feels that to Waldeck, a distinguished French traveller, who spent a number of years in Central America and Yucatan, his obligations are of a character not to be passed over without a special acknowledgment. The illness of the writer during the time the following pages were passing through the press, must constitute his apology, should inaccuracies be found to disfigure the work. The Map is intended to show the geographical position of the ruins, and of the towns passed through before arriving at them ; and the Plans to define the relative locations of the structures , neither of them, however, is laid out with scientific' exactness ; it is hoped, nevertheless, they will still be found sufiiciently correct to illustrate the descriptions. O PREFACE. If the public shall find the work now submitted to them pos- sessed of sufficient merit to deserve their regard, or if others shall be induced, by reading it, to extend their researches in a similar direction, or shall, through its aid, eliminate one new ray of light to illumine the dark mystery of its subject, the author will feel amply compensated for the trouble he has taken, and will think himself entitled to indulge the assurance that his life has not been altogether without profit. New Orleans, November, 1842. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Setting Out — Accommodations — Arrival at Sisal — Geographical and Political view of Yucatan — A Christening — Lady Smokers — Oflf for the Interior — Merida — A Feast-day — Christmas Eve — Christmas Day — Conclusion of a Feast — Holy Unction — Indian Character — Soldiers' Return — Holy Days — Gaming - 13 CHAPTER II. Description of Merida, Geographical and Historical — The City — Public Squares — The Market — Trade — Habits and Customs — Health — The Public Buildings — A way to get a Husband — New Year Eve — New Year Day — The City and Environs — A Touch of Music — A Country Seat — Congress of Yucatan — Franciscan Ruins — More Holy-days — Cock-fighting — A Drill — The Bishop at Home — The College — Miracles - - 34 CHAPTER III. Mechanical Pursuits — The Circulating Medium — A Ball — A Remnant of Franciscans — Signs of Decay in the Suburbs — The Cemetery — The Weather — A Whole Congregation Flogged — The Wise Men — The Gentlemen — Extra Civilities — The Appearances of Trade — Products of the Soil — Education — Language of the Indians — The Ancient People — Waldeck's Opinion of them — The Maya Language — The Lord's Prayer in Maya — Grammars of that Dialect — Difficulties in Speaking it — Traits of the Indian Character - - - - - 53 O CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. Page. Preparations for the Interior — Outfit, &c. — The Indian Boy — Departure from Merida — Arrival at Tixcoco — Calcachen — A Feast-day — Isamal at a distance — Arrival there — Our Pa- lace — A Procession — Ancient Mounds — The Church — A striking Indian — Wrong Impressions — Tuncax — A Dilemma — Philosophy of the Road-side — A Dinner — Visit to a Curate — A Touch of Comfort — MaQ Carrier — Sitax — An Indian Alcalde — Tinum — An Allusion — Valladolid — A Mistake rectified in time ---..-...73 CHAPTER V. Festival of the Purification — A Factory discovered — New Quar- ters—Appearance of Public Buildings— Church — Singular Display of Taste — Population and Health — The Town — Its Suburbs — Monastic Ruins — Remarkable Sonato — Amuse- ments — The Riband Dance — The Market Place — Cotton — Ancient Ruins — Difficulties of Strangers — A Norther — Kaua — The Churlish Curate — End of a Feast — The Route — Ap- proach to Chi-Chen— A Glimpse of the Ruins ... 91 CHAPTER VI. A Visit to the Ruins — Reflections — Indian Visiters — Detail of the Ruins of Chi-Chen — The Temple — The Pyramid — The Dome — The House of the Caciques — General Ruins — Mounds — Foundations — Characteristics of the Ruins — Materials and Manner of Building— The Finish — Fresco Paintings - - 108 CHAPTER VII. An Arrival — Unexpected Honors — Usurpation of Office — Prices of Labor — Indian way of Living — A Sonato — An Incident — Departure — Yacaba — Sonato at Tabi — Arrival at Sotuta — " Las Ruinas" — A Benediction — Cantamayec— Turn Physi- cian—Successful Practice — The Reward of Merit— Route to Teabo — Its Curate — Mani — Arrival at Ticul — Description of Ticul — The Church — Curate — Market-place — Pretty CONTENTS. » Page. Women — Convent — Occupations — Health — Roads — Sugar Estates — Ruins of Ichmul — Departure — Cross the Cordil- leras 129 CHAPTER Vni. The Ruins of Kahbah — Those of Zayi — Scattered Ruins — Church at Nohcacab — The Padre — The Town — Departure for Uxmal — Arrival at the Hacienda — Quarters and Arrange- ments — The Scenery — General Character of the Ruins of Ux- mal — The Governor's House — The Nuns' House — The Pyra- mid — Other Remains — Pyramids, Walls, and Mounds — Reservoir — Moonlight .-.-..- 143 CHAPTER IX. Introductory Facts — Ruins of Yucatan and other parts of Mexico — Ruins of North America — Mississippi and Missouri — Look- Out Mountain — Ohio River — Mount Joliet and others — In- dian Races — Ledyard — Bradford — Dr. Morton — Diversity of Opinions — Pyramids of Egypt — Speculations — Vassalage — Comparison — Traditions — Embalming — Priesthood — Siam- ese — Japanese — Astronomy and Mythology - - . 168 CHAPTER X. Waldeck's Remarks on Uxmal — Ancient Tools — Soil and Health — Ancient Customs — End of Time — The Coronation of an Emperor — Religious Beliefs — Marriage Ceremony — In- fant Baptism — Origin of those Rites — Horse Worship — Amuse- ments — Markets — Idols — Candidates for Matrimony — Their Worship Varies — Refinements --.--. 183 CHAPTER XI. Departure from Uxmal — Abala — The Road — The Curate's Hacienda — Arrival atMerida — Hotel de Diligencias — Bishop Preaching — Strange Scenes — Parting with Jose — Departure from Merida — Coach and Passengers — Scenes of the Road — Zibackchen — Accommodations — Arrival at Cam peachy - 199 10 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XII. Page. Reception at Campeachy — The City — Public Buildings — The Convent — The Market — Charity — An Ancient Custom — Population — The College — Foundations of the City — Sub- terraneous Caverns — The Suburbs — The Harbor — Climate and Health — Various Ruins — The Author's Collection of Idols — Dr. Morton on the Archaeology of Yucatan — Other Rukis — ReptUes and Insects — A Concealed Nation^— The Brothers Camachos -- 209 • CHAPTER XIIL^ Political History of Yucatan — The Rochelanos — A Civil Revolu- tion — A Tumultuary Movement in the Interior — Santiago Iman — Attack on Espita — Retreat to San Fernando — Quiet Restored for a Time — Colonel Roquena — Attack on Tizimin — Return of the Troops — Attack on Valladolid — Capitulation — Succession of Events — A New Constitution — The NeAV Congress — 'New Party — Opinions — Physical Incapacity for Independence — The Press of Yucatan ^ . -. u i224 CHAPTER XIV. Remarks on American Languages in general — Conflicting Opin- ions of Philologists — Religious Zeal a Stimulus that has pro- duced the Grammars and Vocabularies of the American Lan- guages — Sketch of the Grammar of the Maya Tongue — Concluding Observations respecting its Origin - _ - 236 APPENDIX. A Brief Maya Vocabidary 255 Tradition of the Mexican Natives respecting their Migration from the North 264 Traits of the Mosaic History found among the Azteca Nations - - 267 Origin of Fire-Worship 276 Great Stone Calendar of the Mexicans 277 Scientific Acquirements of Ancient Builders in the West - - - . 2S0 Predilection of the Ancients to Pyramids 282 The Remains of Cities 284 Ruins of the City of Otolum, discovered in North America - • 284 Ancient Languages of the First Inhabitants of America .... 292 Historical Sketch of Mexico 296 LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS. Paok. Map Moonlight— Uxmal Ruins — Frontispiece - - - - Vignette Title-page --- Indians of Yucatan -------- 30 The Plantain Tree 33 Yucateco Indian Hut ------- 72 The Road-side 90 Sonato near Valladolid ..---.- 98 Plan of the Ruins op Chi-Chen ------ 108 The Temple Ill Ornaments of Buildings ------»- 112 The Pyramid 115 The Dome 118 The Front of the House of the Caciques - - - - 119 The House of the Caciques ------- 119 Ornaments of Buildings ------- 121 The Agave Americana - - - - - - - -128 Ruins of Zayi --------- 151 Plan of the Rums of Uxmal ------ 155 Facade of the Governor's House . - - - - - 156 The Governor's House --- 156 Ornaments of Building ------- 158,159 The Nuns' House 160 Ornaments --------- 162 ThePjTamid - - 163 The Pigeon Houses -------- 165 Yucatan Coach crossing the Mountains ----- 199 Campeachy --------- 209 PlateNo. I. — Idols 215 Plate No. II. — Four Idols 215 Plate No. III. — Four Idols 215 Plate No. IV. — Fragments of Idols or Ornaments - - 215 PlateNo. v. — Vessels 215 Plate No. VI, — Turtle and Household Utensils - - - 215 Vignettes, ice, &c. --------- RAMBLES IN YUCATAN. CHAPTER I. Setting Out — Accommodations — Arrival at Sisal — Geographical and Political view of Yucatan — A Christening — Lady Smokers — Off for the Interior — Merida — A Feast-day — Christmas Eve — Christ- mas Day — Conclusion of a Feast — Holy Unction — Indian Charac- ter — Soldiers' Return — Holy Days — Gaming. The prospect of leaving one's country for a sea- son, affects different people in very different ways. To some, it suggests only the loss of friends, and the want of the conveniences which habit may have made to them the necessaries of life. By their for- midable equipments, their groaning trunks, and sys- tematic leave-takings, they intimate a foregone con- clusion, that every nation except their own is peopled with Ishmaelites, whose hands are ever raised against the rest of mankind. There is another class, who have faith in man wherever he exists, and who rely upon the permanence of the laws of Nature ; who do not imagine that a man is necessarily a cannibal or a troglodyte because born in a different degree of latitude, nor that water will refuse to run down hill at a foreigner's request. Through their confi- dence in the uniformity of Nature's laws, they feel 14 SETTING OUT. it unnecessary to equip themselves for a campaign into chaos when they leave their native land, always presuming every corner of this planet, however re- mote from the illuminating centres of civilization, to be possessed of some of the elements of existence, such as air, fire, water, &c., which a traveller may spare himself the trouble of bringing from home in his trunk. With the latter class, kind reader, the author of the following notes deserves to be asso- ciated. He would require nothing but a valise to contain his outfit for a circumnavigation of the globe, and would include the moon in his circuit, if practi- cable, without materially enlarging his equipage, ex- cept, perhaps, by some device that would diminish the inconveniences of a rarefied atmosphere. This faith in the future, this trust in the resources which a mind of ordinary intelligence can always command under any sun and in any clime, sustained the writer in his determination, last fall, to visit some of the islands of the West India seas, almost without no- tice, and with scarcely more preparation than a domestic man would deem essential for an absence from home of a single week. The cork-legged merchant of Rotterdam did not commence his jour- neyings more unexpectedly to himself, nor less for- midably panoplied against the emergencies of his unfortunate tour. To the writer's unpreparedness, a term which, in such cases, usually signifies freedom from anxiety, he feels indebted for most of the pleas- ure which this excursion has afforded him ; and he has only cause to regret the want of more elaborate DEPARTURE. 15 preparation, inasmuch as it may have deprived these pages of a portion of their interest and value. It was at the conchision of the long and frightful season of epidemic disease, which caused many a desolated home in New Orleans to be hung with cypress during the summer of the year 1841, and on the 26th day of November, that I embarked from the Crescent city for Havana. My original inten- tion had been, to visit the Windward Islands ; but, not finding the facilities of intercommunication which I had anticipated, and excited by the curiosity of seeing a region of country of which but little is known to citizens of the United States, I was in- duced to change my contemplated route. Accord- ingly, after a detention of ten days in Cuba, where I had passed some of the happiest days of my youth, I resolved to embrace the first opportunity that pre- sented itself to run down to the coast of Mexico. I was soon enabled to secure a passage on board of a Spanish brig bound to Sisal, of which I was prompt to avail myself. Early on the morning of the 9th of December, we slipped by the Moro Castle with a fine breeze, and had but just effected a good offing when the vessel was suddenly hove to, much to our surprise and alarm, and without any apparent reason. Our alarms were soon dispelled, however, by the welcome intelligence, through the cabin-boy, that " breakfast was ready 1" Our own countrymen are not indifferent tp the " family comforts," and the English relish still less any interruption at their meals ; but with the Span- 16 PASSAGE AND ARRIVAL. iard eating seems to have risen to the importance of a reUgious ceremony. 'Heaving to for breakfast, in a Yankee craft, would be looked at with astonish- ment by an American tar — we question if it would not cancel the ship's insurance policy. Every coun- try, however, has its customs, and this is one pecu- liar to the flag under which we were now sailing. The meal happily ended, the yards were squared away, and the brig quietly pursued her course. The cabin formed a part of the hold, without berths, bulk-heads, tables, or chairs. Planks were laid down for our accommodation, upon which our mattresses were distributed, the cargo forming sides which, as the vessel rolled, served to retain us in oui places. There were eight Mexican fellow-passen- gers, perfect out-and-outers in the way of eating, sleeping, and smoking, which they seemed to con- sider the ends for which they lived and moved and had their being. The captain proved to be a right good sailor, and his vessel, which was dignified by the name of a packet, shall be suffered to pass with- out censure, as deserving a better fate than awaited Sodom, in having at least one good man on board in the person of her excellent commander. After eleven days of continually pleasant weather we ar- rived in sight of the port of Sisal, on the north-west coast of Yucatan, on the 20th of the month; and, as the bills of lading might conscientiously have testified, " in good order and well-conditioned." This coast presents a line of shore scarcely merg- ing from the ocean, with no distinguishing highland LANDING. 17 to conduct the manner to his destined port. The unpretending httle town to which our course was directed, at this time, however, very innocently on its own part, loomed up from the horizon to an imr mense height, and it was not until we had approach- ed very near the land that our false impressions were corrected. We came to anchor about two miles from the shore, that being as near as it was deemed prudent for vessels of our burden to venture. A felucca, manned by three Indians, now boarded us, for the purpose of receiving the passengers. The place of landing was a long pier-head, loosely put together, composed of spiles and plank, the only one in the harbor where the imports and exports are received and shipped. When once fairly on terra firma, we all started under the escort of our worthy captain for a public house, followed by a retinue of Indians, that gave us for a time at least the consequential ap- pearance of Eastern nabobs. This numerous troop belonged professionally to the class which in our Northern cities besiege the wharves upon the arrival of a steamboat, as hackmen, porters, dock loafers, &c., but injustice to the Indians be it observed, that they are much less clamorous and more civil than their more pretentious brethren of the North. Early on the morning of our arrival, our baggage was sent to the custom-house ; but the politeness of the gentlemen attached to that establishment made the examination a matter of mere form. Thiscivih- ty is acknowledged witli the greater pleasure, in con- 2 18 GEOGRAPHICAL. sequence of its having been accorded without solici- tation, and contrary to our expectation. With the permission of my reader I will here step aside, for one moment, from the detail of my ram- blings, to say a single word about the geographical and political condition of the country in which I now found myself a denizen, pledging myself, how- ever, to detain the narrative upon nothing which will not be pertinent to and explanatory of the subsequent pages. The peninsula of Yucatan extends over a surface of some eighty thousand square miles, lying in a north-east direction from Laguna du Terminos, and jutting out north into the Gulf of Mexico, between the Bay of Campeachy and Honduras. It is about five hundred miles long, and one hundred and sixty broad, and is divided into five departments, eighteen districts, and containing two hundred and thirty-six towns. It is inhabited by something short of half a million of people, the majority of whom are Indians. The country is almost one entire plain, half of which, to the north, consists of a light soil formed upon solid and broken masses of a white lime and flint rock. The other, the southern half, is a deep rich loam, but much affected by the heavy rains of summer, which present serious obstructions to the exertions of the agriculturist. There are no rivers in the interior. The inhabitants are supplied with water from sonatos, or natural wells, which are lib- erally distributed throughout the country by the formation of supposed subterraneous rivers. POLITICAL — SISAL. 19 Yucatan was formerly a part of the Mexican con- federacy, but having recently declared her indepen- dence, she has her own President and Congress of legislators, elected by a limited class of qualified elec- tors. Various attempts have been made, by menaces and by offers of negotiation on the part of the Mexi- cans, to reduce the refractory provincials to their allegiance, but hitherto without success. The defi- ciency of means, and the distracted condition of the Confederacy at home, have doubtless prevented the Mexicans from qualifying their diplomacy with physi- cal force, which is probably the only kind of logic that will be conclusive. Sisal, the place (as I have already mentioned) at which I disembarked, is situated upon the north-west side of the peninsula of Yucatan, and is the second port of the province. It presents an open roadstead, which, during the prevalence of the northerly winds, is considered very dangerous. The continuance of these storms frequently compels vessels to get under way and stand out to sea. The town has little of in- terest to strangers. Its population is about one thou- sand, consisting principally of Indians, and the resi- due are Mexicans. The houses are built of stone, are one story high, covering a large space of ground, with a court in the centre, embellished with trees and plants of the tropics. The roofs of the dwell- ings being thatched, give to the streets a somewhat singular aspect to strangers. The rooms of these buildings are large and airy, and their floors are formed of mortar and sand. Glass is not used; but 20 CHKISTENING. large openings are formed, protected by gratings and doors, which admit the necessary supply of light and air. Near the beach is a small square fortification, rudely constructed and oddly enough garrisoned, if one may judge from the appearance of the soldiers upon guard. The Indians, who exclusively perform the menial services required throughout the country, seem to be happy and contented. Their wants are few and simple. The men wear loose white cotton trousers, extending a little below the knee, with a shirt of the same, or striped gingham, a palm-leaf hat and sandals. The women wear a simple loose dress hanging from the shoulders, loose about ;the neck, and falhng negligently to the ankles. These gar- ments are more or less ornamented with needle-work, according to the taste or the means of the wearer. Although so near home, this scene was so entirely new to me, that I was exceedingly anxious to get a glimpse of the surrounding country. Unsuccessful, however, in finding an immediate conveyance to Merida, the capital of the province, we loitered about the town during the day, but could not discover any very especial signs of business. Every thing appear- ed to be dull and inanimate. In the evening we were invited, through the polite- ness of the Collector of the Port, to attend the bap- tismal ceremony of his infant. The priest was early at his post, and the whole population of Indians was soon collected about the dwelling, and preparations were made for a grand procession to the church, THE SUPPER — THE PRIEST. 21 where the child was to be baptized. Every thing being in readiness, the whole mass started, led off by- half-breed Indians and boys, making all kinds of dis- cordant sounds, with drums, horns, and whistles ; then the priest and the parents, with the child dressed out with flowers and ribands, and gold and silver orna- ments; after these came the relations and friends, followed by the multitude. When they had arrived at the church, the performances were conducted in the usual CathoHc style. The child appeared to be the only one who had any cause of complaint. The rough hands of the priest, and the continual pour- ing of cold water upon its delicate head, fully jus- tified its boisterous protestations against such harsh treatment. Its restoration to the arms of its mother seemed to give great satisfaction to all parties pre- sent, except perhaps to the deaf and the blind. The company now returned to the house. On the route, small pieces of silver coin were distrib- uted among the Indians. The evening was spent, as is the custom on such occasions, in the greatest hilarity ; and none appeared to enjoy it with a bet- ter relish than the priest. Dancing was kept up till nine o'clock, when supper was announced. The ladies being seated, a place was assigned to me by the side of the divine, to whom I had previously been introduced. This secured to me a seat in the vicinity of the choicest wit as well as wine, that was in circulation ; for, after paying his respects once or twice to the wine that was before him, his good humor and sociability soon convinced me that 22 LADY SMOKERS— REFLECTIONS. he would not willingly become the victim of too rigid fastings and carnal mortifications. Supper being over, dancing was resumed. Those ladies and gentlemen who were not upon the floor, were smoking. The ladies here are general smo- kers ; and do it, too, with a grace which, to a smo- ker, is a study. At first, it appeared rather strange to receive, from the delicate fingers of a female, a lighted cigar, yet fresh with the flavor which her own lips had imparted to it \ but, with such tuition, we were quickly qualified to assume the customs of the country, and we now flatter ourselves that we can go through all that dehcate etiquette with as much ease as though we were " to the manner born." The ladies were dressed in the Spanish style, and appeared quite charming; they chiefly require ani- mation. Their complexion is rather brunette, their hair dark, eyes black ; and, generally, they are of a low stature. We withdrew from the party at an early hour, after presenting our sincere congratulations to the mother of the " orator of the day," and bidding adieu to the hospitable family. Once more in the street, We were lost in meditation. The incidents of the day came into review before us — the first day that we had passed here among strangers in a strange land. We found ourselves absolutely regretting to part from friends of an hour's creation. He who has wandered much in the world may have expe- rienced similar sensations. These are some of the transitory passages, " the sunny spots" of life, which DEPARTURE FOR MERIDA — ROADS. 23 memory most dearly cherishes. They are snatched, as it were, from the dull round of existence, and are sanctified by the unexpected gratification that at- tends them. These are a part of the items that con- stitute what man calls happiness — the jewels, no doubt ; and w^e shall make them lawful prize w^lier- ever and w^ienever they fall in our way. These re- flections brought us to our lodgings, where prepa- rations w'ere yet to be made for our departure for Merida the next morning ; and, in spite of old phi- losophy or new acquaintance, " The hour approaches, Tarn maun ride." At nine o'clock in the morning my conveyance was ready at the door. It was a rude vehicle, called here a calesa, somewhat resembling the old-fashioned New England chaise, but as heavy and uncouth as wood and trappings could make it. The machine was drawn by three mules abreast, attached to it by plaited ropes. All the preparations having been completed, we started under whip and spur, Jehu- like, rattling over the rocks, to the no small hazard of bones and baggage. Fortunately, this speed did not continue long. The road, for two miles, was overflowed; and the Indian guide was necessarily compelled to direct his ream with a greater degree of circumspection. The road, for the first sixteen miles, was over a low marshy country, partially Macadamized, and raised in the form of a causeway; rather rough, but smooth compared with very many of our own. 24 ARRIVAL AT MERIDA. even in the State of New Yoi-k. The sides were filled in with brush- wood as far as Hunucuma, about sixteen miles from Sisal. We stopped here, at noon, tv/o hours, to give our faithful mules an opportunity to refresh, after a sultry morning's travel. This pleasant village stands about half way between Sisal and Merida, and is surrounded by beautiful shrub- bery. From this town, which possesses little interest to the foreign tourist, the open country appears to advantage ; but it is not under a high state of culti- vation. The road hence to Merida is finished in a style that would have done credit to the imperial enterprise of Hadrian. We passed through several small villages, occupied principally by the huts of the Indians, and, at five o'clock in the afternoon of the 22d instant, arrived at the metropolis, thirty-six miles distance from the place of landing, and drove Up to the door of the amiable Dona Michaele, who keeps the only public house in the city — not for her own personal advantage, as she informs her guests, but solely for their accommodation. Blessings on her kind heart, although her professions of philan- thropy "something smacked, something grew too," yet we believed every word of them, and made our- selves perfectly at home in the shortest possible time. The residence of this lady stands in about the centre of the city, occupying a large space of ground, is one story high, with ranges of rooms and stables, forming a square, which is filled with fruit-trees of the tropics. The rooms are spacious and airy : they have large doors, and balconied windows^ grated, but THE LANDLADY — GUESTS. 25 without glass. The floors are laid with stone, set in mortar. Of the Dona and her table, I may be per- mitted to say, that when I paid my bill I felt that 1 had cancelled all the obligations which her bounty had imposed upon me. Chocolate, with "panadul- za," a sweet bread made by the nuns, is served early in the morning, according to the general custom of the country ; breakfast is ready at nine o'clock, made up of Spanish American dishes, composed of strips of meat, eggs, tortillas, and frejoles, (that is, corn- cake and black beans,) with coffee and wine. Her guests consisted of two Americans besides myself, who came here to trade, and remained, not to pray, but to be preyed upon by the most dismal prospects — three Mexican officers, who were exiled by Santa Ana ; and three Spanish Jews, who were from Ha- vana, wdth merchandise. Dinner was served at three o'clock. The Doria undoubtedly gave her boarders the best the market afforded, for she certainly exert- ed herself to render them satisfied with their fare. It would be absurd to enumerate dishes, and to object to the style of cooking because it did not happen to be in accordance with my own preferences or habits. Among the Mexicans of our company, however, it may not be improper to remark, that etiquette in the disposition of their food was but little observed ; and knives and forks were unceremoniously thrown aside for the more primitive utensils with which nature had provided them. The 23d of December was the festival of St. Christoval. It was made, like all the saints' days in 26 FESTIVAL. Catholic countries, a gala-day. Measures were taken accordingly, a week previous, to give to this festival its full effect. In front of the church is a large square, around the sides of which were placed poles and staging, forming an amphitheatre, adorned with rude paintings of various animals, and dressed off with flags and evergreens ; the area of which was to be the scene of a modern huU-fght. The morning was ushered in by the firing of guns and squibs. The stores were closed, churches opened, bells ring- ing, and the population was literally emptied into the streets. At twelve o'clock signal rockets were fired, and the gates of the amphitheatre, which appeared to be the principal point of attraction, were thrown open, and a bull was led in by four Indians. Indians, mounted on horses, attacked hira with spears, whilst others goaded him almost to madness with barbed sticks. A great noise was made w^ith drums and horns, and by the acclamations of the audience, com- posed of ladies and gentlemen of Merida and its vicinity. The major part, however, of the assembly was composed of Indians. This portion of the fes- tival was continued during the day ; at the close of which the amphitheatre was deserted, and the neigh- boring houses were filled with people, abandoning themselves to the excitements of every variety of games, and to the dance. This was the first bull-bait I had ever witnessed, and the impression it left upon me I shall never for- get. These spectacles, however, have been so often and so graphically described by others, that it would THE PRESIDENT — CHRISTMAS EVE. 27 be almost presumption in me to attempt a description of the scene, or an analysis of my own feelings. The performance disgusted me to a degree, and has struck me as one of the most extraordinary psycho- logical phenomena in nature, that any body of hu- man beings could be found to whom such exhibitions should be, as they are to the Spanish, sources of the deepest interest and excitement. To-day I had the pleasure of making the acquaint- ance of several gentlemen of the place, who gave me a most cordial reception ; among whom was the President of Yucatan. He is a successful merchant, a plain, unassuming, practical man ; apparently, how- ever, not much versed in political intrigues. The people have recently declared themselves indepen- dent of Mexico, and the government is now about sending commissioners to tlie capital of that repub- lic to treat with Santa Ana, offering again to return to the Mexican Confederacy upon certain condi- tions ; which, if acceded to, .will give to this province most decided advantages, besides being still under the protection of the Confederacy. Christmas eve we passed upon the Alameda, the public promenade of the city. The occasion brought together the great mass of the population. The la- dies were prettily dressed, with veils tastefully thrown over their heads ; and a beautiful moonlight evening was rendered still more charming by their smiles. The great majority were Indians. Their white, loose, cotton dress, bordered with colored needle- work, with the janty veil, carelessly worn, gives 28 HIGH MASS — CHRISTMAS. them an airy appearance, and embellishes features that are naturally pleasant and mild. There proba- bly were six thousand Indians in this collection, mingling with the multitude, without any apparent distinction of rank or race, quietly indulging them- selves in their walks. No loud talking or noisy mer- riment could be heard. Every thing appeared to be conducted in a spirit of harmony and kind feeling. The temperance pledge was alike unnecessary and unknown. At twelve o'clock (midnight) the crowd dispersed ; a portion of them to the cathedral, to attend the per- formance of high mass. An immense crowd was assembled in this place. The aisles, domes, and fret- ted work of the windows were illuminated. The sound of music and the voice of the priest only were heard — all else was silence. The multitude knelt. It was an imposing sight — the dark ages were forgotten ; and the prejudices of a thousand years were subdued in a moment. At two o'clock I left the cathedral and returned to my lodgings, with more liberal feelings, and a better man. Christmas, as a holy-day, is strictly observed by the general suspension of business, and service is performed at all the churches, as in most other Cath- olic countries. The only exception to this uniform- ity perhaps consists in the devotional ceremonies usually offered to a cross affixed to the walls of the Bishop's palace, which rites concluded the religious offices of the day. These services were performed FEAST-DAY OF ST. CHRISTOVAL. 29 by the Indians — and give but too painful evidence of the influence of their priesthood. The next day was Sunday, and concluded the feast of St. Christoval. The churches were crowd- ed, as is usual, during the morning ; but the majority of the multitude that attended the service consisted of females, mostly Indian. In the afternoon we proceeded towards the church of St. Christoval, for the purpose of witnessing the closing scene of a fes- tival which is finished by a procession. Before reaching our destination, however, we met it, and took a position in a door-way, the better to observe it and be out of the crowd. It was headed by eight or ten Indians, with long brass and tin horns, mak- ing the most discordant sounds imaginable. Then followed Indian boys, drumming on hollow pieces of wood, squalid and dirty in their appearance, and who were the only ones of a like character that present- ed themselves to view among the immense multitude. Next came the priests, chanting for the saints, and waving the burning incense, followed by drums and fifes in advance of a large image of the Virgin, deck- ed in various colors, interspersed with tinsel orna- ments, surmounted with glass vases, in which a lighted candle or a bouquet of flowers was alter- nately placed. This imposing display was borne upon the shoulders of eight Indians, surrounded by priests. The rear was brought up by a company of soldiers with fixed bayonets ; the whole surrounded by an immense crowd, filling up the streets for a great distance. All were uncovered, and many knelt 30 HOLY UNCTION. during the baitings of the procession, which were purposely frequent, so as to enable the people to sa- lute the image. This grand display occupied about three hours, the procession passing through the prin- cipal streets and back to the church, where it was dismissed. The whole dispersed with the utmost quietness ; some to their homes, and others to places of gaming and dancing. In returning to. our lodgings we met a calesa, pre- ceded by two Indians with lanterns, tinkling small bells, followed by four Indian soldiers, armed with muskets. The carriage contained a priest, who was going to administer holy unction. The people, as is the universal custom here, knelt as he passed. To obviate a similar necessity, we retreated into the nearest house ; thereby escaping a charge of heresy, and the unpleasantness of coming in contact wuth muddy streets. A. stranger, on his first arrival in this country, is at a loss where to place the Indian in the scale of social life. He sees him clean and well dressed, mingling with the whites, and without distinction. To have Indian blood is no reproach, and family groups, in many cases, show this most palpably. It is not unusual to hear mothers threaten to send their children home to their respective fathers, whenever their rudeness requires chiding. The Indian, how- ever, performs the menial labor of the country — and there is an appearance of apathy in his looks and actions, which seems to carry with it the signs of a broken, or at least a subdued spirit — resting upon THE INDIAN — SOLDIERS' RETURN. 31 him like a melancholy vision, a dreamy remembrance, of better days. For, say what we please of him, he is the humble descendant of a once great and pow- erful people — the "children of the sun," who were lords of that soil on which their offspring are now held in humiliating vassalage. We w'ere roused early this morning by the tramp of horses. It was a body of cavalry returning from a neighboring town, where they had been ordered for the purpose of quelling an emeute. They were headed by a small bloody-looking Mexican, with a pair of mustachios that the proudest Castilian might have envied. He was dressed in a blue roundabout, loose white trousers, and a glazed Mexican hat. His fol- lowers were mounted upon mules of the most jaded appearance, saddled and caparisoned with manilla matting and ropes. Each wore a shirt, trousers, and straw hat ; and was bare-footed, except a pair of huge spurs, which embellished the otherwise naked heel of each rider. Their usual arms were the broadsword and pistols, but this squadron was not well equipped ; and the common bayonet, with them, w^as frequently compelled to do duty for one or both of the other weapons. After so particular a description of these soldiers, it is a matter of extreme regret that the result of the expedition cannot be minutely stated. I feel entitled, however, to indulge a little pride in making the announcement, that they did return crowned with w^reaths of victory. This season of the year is the high noon of the holy-days, which engrosses the best part of the year, 32 HOLY-DAYS — GAMING. and which formerly induded two-thirds of it. Their number, some time since, was reduced by a bull from the Pope. The people testify their respect for these festival days (for such they are denominated) by pro- cessions and such amusements as are suited to their taste. Notwithstanding the acknowledged debasing effects of their sports and pastimes, which wholly consist of bull-baiting, cock-fighting, and gambling, they are not disgraced by any riotousness or drunken- ness. It is a singular fact, that, although the de- grading habit of gambling is general among all classes of society, male and female, drunkenness and its concomitant vices are unknown. The priests give countenance to these recreations, if they may be so called, both by their presence and participation. It is but due to the Yucatecos to say, that during my residence in their province, I never observed any cheating or quarrelling at the gaming table, nor have I observed others tempted by improper means to par- ticipate in the hazard of the gaming table, after the manner of people at the North. Gambling seems to be a passion pecuhar to the Mexican's character, which he indulges from motives quite independent of mer- cenary considerations. They usually gamble with cards ; but of the skill or even the names of their games, I must plead an utter ignorance. Their interest would sometimes become perfectly intense, as every linea- ment of their countenances abundantly testified, Hope, fear, satisfaction, and disappointment followed each other in quick succession over their faces, while the portly priest and the flippant sefiora, who stoocj GAMING. 33 near, with their bets vibrating with the chances of the game, seemed scarcely less interested in the result than the more immediate parties. Had a spell of en- chantment been laid upon the whole group, they could not have been more completely at the mercy of the uncontrollable hazards of their game. All moral ac- countability seemed to disappear before its irresisti- ble fascinations. THE PLANTAIN. CHAPTER II. Descriptioa of Merida, Geographical and Historical — The City — Pub- lic Squares — The Market — Trade — ^ Habits and Customs — Health — The Public Buildings — A way to get a Husband — New Year Eve — New Year Day — The City and Environs — A Touch of Music — A Country Seat — Congress of Yucatan — Franciscan Ruins — More Holy-days — Cock-fighting — A Drill — The Bishop at Home — The College — Miracles. Merida, the capital of Yucatan, is situated about the twenty-first degree of north latitude, and is ele- vated some twentj-five feet above the level of the sea. The thermometer ranges at about eighty of Fahrenheit, and the maximum length of the days is nearly thirteen hours. The city w^as built upon the ruins of an Indian tovi^n, which was destroyed by the Spaniards in their superstitious zeal, so madly manifested in the destruction of every thing through- out Mexico that was found belonging to the people whom they had conquered. The present popula- tion is calculated at twenty thousand, the majority of whom are Indians and half-breeds. The city was founded in 1542. From the few scattered facts which have been handed down to us by history, we gather that, prior to the Spanish con- quest, there existed in Yucatan a people of an origin remote and unknown, who were under the subjec- HISTORY — MERIDA. 35 tioii of rulers, with fixed principles of law and or- der ; had passed through the ordinary vicissitudes of nations, and finished their career by losing, at once, their liberty and their dominions. The triumphant forces of the Spaniards having obtained full posses- sion of the country, the Church came in to execute its part; and their language, manners, customs, and religion, were disseminated by the steady and perse- vering arm of Catholic power and management. To complete the work, every thing that had a ten- dency to remind the vanquished of the past was obliterated, in accordance w^itli the grovelling policy or the blind fanaticism that marked the times. An- cient pictorial and hieroglyphical manuscripts were burnt; their idols, images, and planispheres, were destroyed, and their temples and cities were razed to the ground. It is melancholy to reflect that a chasm has thus been made in the early history of the country, which the historian must despair of ever seeing filled up. Merida, since it was rebuilt, has not rendered itself in anywise historical. Its remote and isolated posi- tion has prevented its participation, to any extent, in the political struggles which have marked the history of the city of Mexico ; and the inhabitants appear to have availed themselves of their peace and political composure by a cultivation of letters, and general mental cultivation, to an extent certainly unsurpassed in any province of Mexico. The streets of Merida are of a good width, laid out at right angles. The side-walks are four feet 3 6 MERID A — SQUARES. wide, paved with rough stone. The houses are quite uniform in their appearance, and are built of stone. The mason-work is creditable. The roofs of their houses are flat, and their exteriors finished in stucco ; some of which are painted in the Moorish style, wdth balconied windows, ornamented, and presenting ra- ther a pretty appearance. The middle of the street is the lowest, forming a passage to carry off the wa- ter. During ordinary rains, small rivers, compara- tively speaking, form themselves ; flooding the streets to the edge of the walks, and rendering them im- passable for hours after the rain has ceased, with- out great exposure. Candles are used for lighting the city ; but, of course, for that purpose, are almost useless. This place contains a number of fine squares, the principal of w^iicli is in the centre of the city. It is bounded by the cathedral, bishop's palace, govern- ment house, and dwellings occupied by the citizens. In the middle of this square is a luaterless fountain. No attention is paid to this place, which might justly be compared, from its deserted aspect, to the " Neu- tral Ground" in New Orleans ; and, like that, it is susceptible of being rendered a most beautiful prom- enade. On the side of this square is the dwelling of Simon Peon, Esq. The front is ornamented with a relic of the times prior to the conquest. It is a huge door-w^ay, elaborately carved in figures and lines. The city is indebted to this gentleman for this display of his liberality and taste, in preserving a very interesting memento of a people whose his- MARKET — HABITS. 37 tory, probably, is destined to remain for ever sealed to mankind. The market occupies a large square, in a central position, having two sides devoted to the sale ot meats, and the other two remaining open. The in- terior is provided with accommodations for the vend- ers of fruits and vegetables. The meats are of an indifferent quality ; they are cut up and sold by the butcher in long strips. Their variety of vegetables is limited, and but little skill is shown in their culti- vation. Poultry is abundant and cheap, as are also the other necessaries of life. There is but a very limited trade here, of any kind. The resources of the country are too small for it to be otherwise. To give some idea of the state of trade in the vicinity of the great public square, just described, it is sufficient to state that, in crossing it, we have disturbed the buzzard and killdeer at noonday. At three o'clock in the afternoon, there is an al- most total suspension of business. The stores, gen- erally, are closed, and the inhabitants betake them- selves to their hammocks, to the enjoyment of their favorite siesta, which consists of a nap of an hour or more ; an indulgence as indispensable to a Mexi- can as his cigar. The calesa is the only wheel-car- riage that is to be found in the streets. Indian por- ters take the place of drays, and are seen carrying barrels and bales upon their backs, secured by a plaited rope passed over their foreheads. Being accustomed, from childhood, to this kind of labor, 38 HEALTH — CATHEDRAL. they are enabled to take loads of extraordinary weight, and to convey them to a great distance with an ease that is really wonderful. The climate of Merida, though very dry, and not subject to great changes, is productive of febrile dis- eases at all seasons of the year, from which even the natives are not exempted. Their bilious, much re- sembles the yellow fever ; and, in many cases, proves fatal. The fever and ague is no stranger here. Pul- monary complaints are common, and consumption carries off many. This malady most frequently shows itself after severe attacks of the fever and ague, and makes a conquest of its victim in a very short period. The principal, as well as the most prominent, of the public buildings, are the churches. The cathe- dral is a structure that would attract the attention of the traveller in any part of the world. It was erected in the sixteenth century. Its architecture is of the ecclesiastical style of that age ; and, altoge- ther, it has a most commanding appearance. It has well-proportioned domes, pinnacles, turrets, and lofty windows ; and it occupies, with the palace of the bishop of Yucatan, one entire side of the most im- portant square of the city. The interior is impos- ing, from its numerous and splendidly decorated shrines. Its vaulted roof, supported by immense stone pillars, gives it an air of solemn grandeur pe- culiarly applicable to the ceremonies that are daily performed within its precincts. The arms of Mex- ico are displayed upon the exterior front of the build- v^uuHCHES — PRAYING FOR HUSBANDS. 39 ing, which is finished with stone and stucco, with saints in basso-rehevo. The bishop's palace, adjoining, is plain. It is of two stories high, painted green ; and is accessible by a gateway opening into a court, over which are em- blazoned the crosier and mitre. The doors and windows are much dilapidated. The title of a pal- ace is somewhat of a misnomer for this edifice, if one were to judge from its external appearance. There are fourteen church establishments within the city and its suburbs ; they, generally, are well built ; and many of them are remarkable for the pow- er and influence of their particular saints — in pop- ular estimation. For instance, that of St. Anne is one which the ladies frequent, to pray for good husbands. Whether the gentlemen go there to ask for similar blessings, I did not learn ; but I was in- formed through a source that it would be impolite to doubt, that, in many instances, the petition of the lonely spinster has been most favorably received. In this church is a large collection of bone and wax figures, representing the various limbs of the human body; as, also, crutches, left there by invalids as of- ferings to the tutelar saint (St. Barbe) who has favor- ably heard their supplications. Models of vessels are deposited here by those who have been preserved from imminent danger at sea, through, as the devo- tees suppose, the efficacy of their appeals and sacri- fices to the saint. We observed, on entering the church, parts of a human skeleton set near the vase of holy water ; put 40 NEW YEAR'S DAY. there, possibly, that all might see and be reminded that " to this condition we must come at last !" Whether the priests intended that they should con- vey a moral, as did those in use among the ancient Egyptians, or placed them there for other purposes, could not conveniently be ascertained. Be that as it may, they have an imposing effect. The taste generally displayed in these churches is not very pleasing to the eye of a stranger. The images of our Saviour are rude figures, and what made them appear still worse was, that they were decorated ac- cording to the prevailing fashion of the country ; a style which was calculated to awaken any other than reverential emotions. New Year's eve found me on the Alameda, (the promenade of the city,) where I mingled with the multitude which had collected to enjoy the pleasant- ness of the evening at this, the most delightful season of the year in Yucatan. On the morning of New Year, 1842, I went early to the cathedral. Dense masses of Indians, princi- pally females, in their plain cleanly dress, tastefully arranged, were assembled around the dififerent shrines at which the priests were officiating. When I re- turned to breakfast, I met my fellow-companions of the house at table ; but there were none of those outpourings of good feelings, those kind wishes of happiness that, in former days, were wont to meet me in the land of my birth. For one hearty greeting of " a happy New Year !" I would have given for the sake of " auld lang syne," most cheer- CITY AND SUBURBS. 41 fully would I have given — "a thousand returns!" But " New Year's," alas ! is no festival day of the heart in Merida. The day was dull throughout. After the services of the church were finished, about nine o'clock, the streets were quite deserted. I then visited the In- dians in the suburbs. Their simple huts were com- fortable, so far as mud and stone could make them, and tolerably clean. Their furniture is composed of nothing more than a few earthen vessels, calabashes, and hammocks swung across the room. The walls of some of them were ornamented with rude wood- en crosses ; and, occasionally, pictures of saints in tin frames. The environs of the city present but few pleasant walks. In fact they are not required, for the inhabi- tants have not a taste for pedestrian exercises, and scarcely ever walk when they can enjoy any less fatiguing mode of locomotion. The practice of riding in the calesa is almost universal. The ladies, especially, are extremely partial to it ; and having an uncouth gait, they thus appear to the best possible advantage. Thus mounted and armed with their fan, (that indispensable appendage to a Mexican lady,) they go forth fully equipped with fascinations, con- quering and to conquer. Their rides are wholly confined to the streets, as the scenery in the vicinity of Merida ofTers few inducements to the equestrian, while the roads constitute a special annoyance. As to the cultivation of the soil, nature has been left to perform the whole task, almost entirely unaided 42 CONCERT. either by art or industry. Surely, thrift is not in- digenous to this country. The tropical trees and plants put forth their blossoms, and the rich perfumes fill the air with their balmy sweets. But there is a chilling contrast betvv^een the loveliness of vegeta- ble nature about me, and the condition of man, to whose care it is intrusted. We never have admired the one without wishing that we had the power to exalt the other to a position equally worthy of the hand that made it. We reached our lodgings in season to hear a Mexi- can disquisition on cock-fighting, before the com- mencement of a " grand concert," that was to take place in the evening, and to which we had been fa- vored with an invitation. The elite of the city were to be present, and no small gratification was antici- pated. It took place in a long hall kept for this and other public purposes. The music was instrumen- tal—and the performers consisted principally of amateurs. It was a matter of surprise and disap- pointment to find that only seventeen ladies and ten gentlemen constituted the audience. It was odd to us, to see the fairer part of the assembly set apart from the gentlemen ; an arrangement which, if we are not deceived, gave no more satisfaction to the ladies than to the gentlemen. The former were quite pretty, and their dress exceedingly neat; the arrangements of the head in particular exhibited very good taste. On the following day I made a visit to a gentle- man's country place, situated about two miles from COUNTRY-SEAT. 43 the city. It was a beautiful morning. Under the smiles of a rising sun and a cloudless sky nature appeared to be embellished in all her charms. After a very agreeable walk I arrived at the house ; but was disappointed in finding the owner at home. A few Indians were hanging listlessly about the premises, under the charge of a major domo, whose situation was manifestly quite a sinecure. The man- sion was of two stories with piazzas, large^ and well built of stone ; but had nothing very peculiar in its construction. The grounds about it were neatly and tastefully arranged. The division alleys of the gar- den were laid with stone, covered with composition, ornamentally disposed, and answering the two-fold purpose of a walk and a gutter to conduct the water to the parts where it was required. The orange, the cocoa, the plantain, and the wide-spread banana, were loaded with fruit. Clusters of smaller tropical shrub- bery, and myriads of flowers, were in perfection. The enclosures teemed with vegetation, growing in unrestricted luxuriance. This vegetation is only sus- tained by the aid of irrigation. The water is sup- plied from ijp:imense wells and cisterns, which are ope^d in large numbers for that purpose. This practice \Vaj^ originally introduced into Spain by the Moors,^ho thus changed quite barren wastes into productive garden^-^ Even the courses of rivers were sometimes diverted to effect this important object. Many of the^]^rovin£es of the parent country, al- though since suffered by neglect to revert to their former uselessness, bear evidence of the important .\ 44 CONGRESS. benefits that resulted from the system. The con- querors of Mexico were aware of its advantages, of which they availed themselves extensively in their agricultural pursuits. These reservoirs are frequent- ly made through a calcareous formation, to the depth of a hundred feet, and are supplied with water both from fountains and from the rains of summer. Broad curbs of stone and mortar are formed around them, from eight to ten feet high, which are used as plat- forms for drawing up the water by means of revolv- ing buckets, turned by a spindle, and emptying, in their evolutions, into conductors leading to reservoirs located near the place where it may afterwards be wanted. Ascending to the balcony of the building, I had a partial view of the city, embosomed among trees, with its domes and turrets peering above their tops. After acknowledging the hospitality with which I had been received, I made my adieus, and returned at an early hour to the city. The Congress of Yucatan is now in session. It is held in two rooms, connected with each other by double doors. These rooms are neatly and plainly fitted up for the purpose, having a small gallery or platform at the sides, for the accommodation of spec- tators. These apartments comprise a portion of a convent once belonging to the Jesuits, who formerly exercised a powerful sway in this province. In 1825 their property was confiscated to the government; when this and other orders of monasteries and nun- neries were dissolved by the prevailing voice of the people. Small remains now only exist of this once FRANCISCAN RUINS. 45 potent and dreaded class. The whole building, with the exception of the part mentioned, and the church, is in a ruinous condition, with broken walls and rag- ged casements. Birds of prey, fluttering about and resting upon the trees that overtop the seat of this once proud, but now fallen society, present a lesson that others of a similar cast might profit by ; yet now, in the nineteenth century, there are those living in Mexico, who not only strenuously advocate the main- tenance of the order of Loyola, but are exerting their influence to have it reinstated to all its pris- tine wealth, power, and ancient privileges. To re- vert to the business before Congress — the houses were discussing the propriety of appointing commis- sioners to Vera Cruz, for the purpose of arranging for a secession from the great plan of independence that had been proclaimed, and again to return " to their first love," under the control of the Mexican confederacy. The members were good-looking, well dressed, and of gentlemanly behavior — and the system of duel- ling and bullying practised so extensively in many of our own legislative assemblies, is unknown to the un- sophisticated individuals who constitute this body. They probably have not arrived to that state of civ- ihzation, which requires such physical agencies to illustrate and to enforce their arguments. A temptation to visit the most extensive of the modern ruins of this province could not be resisted. The Monastery of St. Francisco, which is situated nearly in the centre of Merida, was erected upon a mound or foundation that, probably, was the former 46 FRANCISCAJV RUINS. site of some important structure belonging to the original inliabitants of the place, which fell under the destroying hand of the conqueror. The caciques and their people were driven out, or perished by the ruthless sword ; and the church, following fast upon their footsteps, divided the spoils. Where are they now ? The vanquished and the vanquisher are num- bered with the things that were ! and we now stand upon the dilapidated memorial that indistinctly marks the greatness of the one, and the downfall of the other. This monastery was founded in 1520, without being completed until 1600. It w^as constructed of walls, after the plan of a fortification, to ward off the attacks of the Indians, v/ho made sudden and fre- quent attempts to regain their dominions and to an- noy their enemies. It occupies about five acres of ground, enclosed by walls forty feet high and eight thick, with walks upon the top. The material is of hard stone, but composed of small pieces, imbedded in a firm mass by the means of mortar. This vast pile, at one time, contained upwards of two thousand friars. Popular opinion drove them out in the polit- ical changes of 1825. Only few of the order remain in Yucatan, and they are supported by the church. The entrance to these ruins is through a huge doorway into a room which was evidently used for persons in waiting for egress, when great caution was requisite in opening the gates, for fear of being surprised by the lurking foe. The arched ceiling of the room is painted with flying ecclesiastical figures. FRANCISCAN RUINS. 47 and the apartment is now used as a stable. From thence the entrance leads to a large square, the sides of which were once occupied by churches, corridors, and rooms. Passing through these, over the fallen ruins covered with a rank vegetation, by long halls, we come to a room that might have been a place of devotion, judging from the unusual care exhibited in the architecture of the walls, which now, how- ever, was more or less broken and defaced. Two trap-doors were in the centre, through which is a descent, by stone steps, to an apartment twelve by eighteen feet, and six feet high. This room con- tained piles of human bones, having been a recepta- cle for those who died of the cholera. This cell had passages connected with it, but they were so choked up with rubbish that they could not be penetrated. After clambering over broken walls, we reached a second floor, containing halls and rooms that had been used for Ubraries and lodgings, as I inferred from the words placed over the doors. In proceeding along the halls, or entering the deserted rooms, the hollow sound of the intruder's footstep drives the frightened bat from his resting-place, and the lizard to his hole. The descent here leads through a succession of rooms and cells, under ground, from whence we left the buildings and passed on through the rank grass surrounding them to a portion of the area, which was formerly cultivated as a garden. The stone walk could yet be seen, and the taste and skill of the designer were perceptible. Fruit-trees still re- 48 HOLY-DAY OF THE EPIPHANY. main, as also wells and reservoirs for bathing and fishing. On returning to the gateway, and ascending the front or principal wall, the highest summit of one of the pinnacles is attained by a ladder of ropes; from which one may obtain a bird's-eye view of the city and surrounding country, as also of the immense pile of ruins around him. In front of the interior space are two churches, in a tolerable state of pre- servation, built in the old Spanish style of pinnacled roof and arches. On the left, ruins of an immense hall are seen, with its large broken arch, leaving the whole interior, with its painted ceilings, exposed to view. Farther on are crumbling bastions and thick walls, falling, covered with ivy and other vegetation. Squares are filled up with masses of rubbish, and over- grown with trees. Symbols of the cross were scat- tered about, bearing evidence of the class of people that had last been its rulers. On the right, you look down into the deep recesses where, but a moment since, you might have stumbled over the emblems of a once haughty and potent priesthood. All now is silent. No life is stirring, save the ominous buzzard fluttering over the tottering pinnacles, or perched upon the blackened and decaying walls, finishing this picture of desolation. The 6th of January is the holy-day of the Epiph- any. At four o'clock in the morning the streets were completely thronged, principally with females. In the cathedral, at this early hour, it was quite dark. The prevailing gloom was rendered more palpable by COCK-FIGHT. 49 the distant appearance of lighted candles. The priests were administering the sacrament, with crowds of women surrounding them. The long aisles of the church were filled with kneeling devotees. As the sun rose, and threw his bright beams in at the win- dows, the scene became imposing. A vast multitude of females were offering up their orisons at the same moment ; and, if the mind of the spectator could be divested of the prejudice that it was not merely the performance of a superstitious rite, but a direct and sincere appeal to the Giver of all good gifts, the sight, indeed, had been most cheering to the eye, most gratifying to the heart. Early on the morning of the following day (Sunday) I visited the churches. They were filled, as usual, with the fairer part of creation. In walking through the streets, after breakfast, great preparations were observed to be making for a cock-fight, which was to take place at twelve o'clock. This, next to a bull- bait, is one of the most exciting scenes that can pre^- sent itself to a Mexican populace. The gentlemen keepers were already wending their way to the pits, which are always kept in readiness for such amuse- ments. The patricians of the city, the heads of the government, officers of the army, scions of the church, citizens, and the poor Indian, were all present, mixed up, helter-skelter; and bets, from six and a quarter cents to three hundred dollars, were freely offered and as readily accepted. There was much excite- ment, but no quarrelling or harsh words. The cock of the Secretary of War was beaten. 4 50. SOLDIERS — THE BISHOP. The latter part of the day was spent on tKe Square, where there were about three hundred Yucatan sol- diers collected for drill. They were dressed in a shirt and short trousers, with the former article upon the out- side, and a broad-brinnned palm-leaf sombrero. Their military equipments were in good keeping. They were officered principally by boys, who had received nothing more than a common school education, wore jacket and trousers, and used canes as substitutes for swords. During the drill a slight shower commenced, which dampened the martial propensities of our he- roes with marvellous rapidity. Whatever might have been their preferences to a fight, they certainly pre- ferred to drill another day. I embraced an opportunity, which was now offer- ed me, of visiting the bishop at his palace. Enter- ing a large doorway in the centre of the court-yard, and ascending a flight of stone steps to a range of corridors, I was met by a servant, who conducted me into an ante-room. My name was taken in ; and, in a few seconds, I was received by the bishop, in an adjoining room, with a most cordial welcome. He has a fine head. His person is tall, rather ro- bust, and looked the bishop to the fife. He was clad in a blue silk gown, and a cap of the same material, resting upon the crown of his head ; and embellished with a massy gold chain around his neck, appended to which was a cross. He conversed respecting cit- izens and residents of the United States with whom he was acquainted, either personally or by reputa- tion ; and spoke of the shipwreck of our national THE COLLEGE. 51 vessel, the schooner Porpoise, on board of which he was a passenger, while on her way to Vera Craz. He expressed himself in the highest terms of com- mendation of the officers, and gave a glowing ac- count of the perilous voyage. He show ed his library with a great politeness, and a becoming pride ; but it struck me as being quite limited for one in his posi- tion. He expressed himself liberally ; and no doubt, as his countenance and actions indicated, he is a right worthy man. His rooms were fitted up more with an eye to the useful, than to any apparent desire for display. The ceiling was ornamented with hthographs of battles, interspersed with patterns of French fire-boards. Previous to taking leave, he very kindly offered all the aid in his power for facilitating my visit to the towns in the interior. For this, as for other civilir- ties, I shall probably never have an opportunity of testifying to him the full extent of my gratitude. He passed with us through his house to the door of the college, adjoining, when he left us in charge of the rector, wdth instructions to conduct us throusfh o the building. The institution is called " Minerva." The first room entered was the library, which was small and badly arranged. It was comprised of works principally relating to the church. It con- tains a portrait of the founder of the college, a build- ing which was completed in 1775. It is supported by certain taxes paid by each curate in the province. These having been cut off, in a great degree, by the recent changes in the government, seriously affect 52 THE CHURCHES — MIRACLES. the institution, which, at this time, is quite hmited in its means. Though the pay of the president and professors is small, and the contingent expenses are hght, it is apprehended that it cannot long be con- tinued. Its studies do not go beyond the high schools in the United States. We hastily glanced at this building, and then entered the cathedral with our attentive friend, who took especial pains to point out every thing worthy of particular notice. Upon a close examination of the altars and shrines, it was plainly to be discovered that the church was poor. The time is gone by in which churches are made the depositories of the precious metals, formerly a source of so much wealth to them. One of the shrines contains a wooden image of our Saviour, to which attention was called by one of the priests that accompanied us through the church. He stated to us with much gravity, that it was preserved harmless from a great fire by a miracle, and that it is now looked upon as a most sacred relic. A room was shown us containing portraits of all the bishops of Yucatan. They were badly executed. One of them was pointed out as having been a great eater ; he would devour a whole turkey at his dinner, and say, " it was a fine chicken." Another was shown who had performed the miracle of changing sour ap- ples to sweet, a function which has given its propri- etor's name to a species of apple, which is retained to this day. CHAPTER III. Mechanical Pursuits— The Circulating Medium— A Ball— A Rem- nant of Franciscans — Signs of Decay in the Suburbs — The Cemetery —The Weather— A Whole Congregation Flogged — The Wise Men — The Gentlemen — Extra Civilities — The Appearances of Trade — Products of the Soil — Education — Language of the Indians — The Ancient People — Waldeck's Opinion of them — The Maya Lan- guage — The Lord's Prayer in Maya — Grammars of that Dialect — Difficulties in Speaking it — Traits of the Indian Character. Having resolved to visit the towns in the interior, 1 was under the necessity of making some prepara- tions which brought me in contact with the mechan- ics of Merida. It being custtjmary and even neces- sary to travel chiefly upon the backs of horses and mules, the saddler and the tailor were first called into requisition. These professions were principally fill- ed by Indians and half-breeds, who, though clumsy in their business, were far more expert than might have been expected. The custom of the country invariably exacts the payment of one-half of the amount agreed upon in advance, in order that the contractor may be in funds to purchase stock, where- with to fill his contract. Though their delays are very annoying, yet they are generally honest, and may be depended upon for ukimately fulfilling their en- gagements. 54 MEN MANTUA-MAKERS — CURRENCY. The wants of the people are so limited that few mechanics are necessary. Natm-e is kind and lavish. The articles necessary to cover and protect the bo- dy are not numerous, and every thing requisite for its nourishment abounds. It looks very odd, I had almost said humiliating, to see men sitting upon the public sidewalks, w^orking upon a lady's dress, and similar articles hanging around the door-ways of their houses, as a sign of the services which they hold themselves competent and ready to render. Manu- factories are nowhere to be seen ; the clatter of the loom or the noise of the hammer never disturbs the quiet of Merida. Some idea of the wealth or poverty of a country may be formed from an acquaintance with its cur- rency. Silver is the basis of the circulation of Yu- catan, of which the Spanish sixpence is the smallest. A fractional sort of change, however, is represented by the seeds of the cacao, two hundred and fifty grains of which are considered equal to sixpence. Of these, five grains constitute the smallest amount ever received in trade^ In some of the provinces of the Mexican confederacy, pieces of soap pass as a circulating medium, and lose none of their esti- mated value for a few washings, provided the bal- ance of exchange should not be such as to carry it out of the district where it is known. The great scarcity of money tends to reduce every thing else in an equal ratio. Servants' wages are from three to five dollars a month, and those of mechanics are at a proportionate rate. Rents are almost a nomi- MANNER OF DOING BUSINESS — BALL. 55 nal charge. This is partially produced by the num- ber of untenanted buildings that arc decaying with- out occupants. The manner of doing business is simple. Nothing of that stir and bustle is seen that is to be observed in cities and towns of the United States ; nor do you find the care-worn and anxious look that is so often to be noticed with us. Speculation, kite-flying, lame ducks, bulls and bears, and all those curses with which large mercantile communities are usually visited, are entirely unknown in the province of Yucatan, During my stay in the city of Merida, a ball was given at the Governor's house, apropos of some po- litical event, which I did not esteem of moment enough to remember. As usual upon such occasions, there were grand preparations. The man-milliners were busily engaged upon female finery — and their shop-boards were decorated with the most unlimited gayety. Every door-way along the principal streets, throughout the day, was filled with ladies seated upon stools, (their favorite posture,) working fancy articles, in anticipation of the approaching festival. But their dresses gaping behind, and hanging loose- ly upon their shoulders, and their slip-shod feet, made them appear exceedingly slovenly at home, and awakened in me -a strong desire to see them in full toilet at the ball in the evening. On entering the hall, I passed through a dense line of ladies arranged along the corridors, principally mammas, and wall-flowering spinsters garlanding the corridors. The dancing had already commenced. 56 THE BALL. At first sights the display was dazzling ; but after the lapse of a few minutes, the fascination dissipated. The absence of all conversation, even of small-talkj which upon such occasions is a relief, rendered even the ball-room, like all their other domestic institutions here, exceedingly monotonous and dull. During the dance, not, a lip is seen to move — like Marryat's wench, they refuse to talk, because they came here to dance ! At the conclusion of a cotillon, the la- dies took seats separate from the gentlemen; They dressed here in very good taste ; though a partiality for brilhant colors was rather too conspicuously displayed for a Northern eye. There was no ex- travagant display of jewellery or rich brocades, in which particular I may be pardoned for commending their example to my own fair countrywomen. There were many pretty faces, that only required expres-- sion to render them charming. The skill of the man-milliner, however, deserves full credit. I will add, for the benefit of my bachelor friends, that there tvere in attendance about twelve ladies to one gen- tleman. This disproportionate abundance of females is common in warm climates, and constitutes, I be- lieve, one of Bishop Warburton's arguments in de- fence of polygamy in Asia. The ladies in the cor- ridors were silently enjoying their cigars during the whole evening, and only relieving the monotony of their occupation, by carrying on a telegraphic cor- respondence with some of their neighbors by the aid of their fans. The ball, as I have already remarked, was given MONASTERY — A MONK. 57 at the Governor's house, which occupies a portion of the great square. The room was about fifty feet long by fifteen wide. The floor was of mortar ; the ceihngs high and roughly finished. The walls were ornamented with framed engravings, and the windows hung with white cotton curtains. A fine supper was provided ; but I left the ball at an early hour, and jostled my way to my lodgings through an immense crowd of Indians, of both sexes, attracted by the fes- tivities which I was just leaving. Within the precincts of Merida, there is a regular monastery sustained by about twelve monks. In my rambles I passed the door of one of the friars, who invited me to walk in. He was a middle-aged man, clad in the usual garb of his order ; a loose dress, and sandals tied about his ankles with cords. His hair was cut roundinor ; giving it the air of a Scotch bon- net resting lightly upon the top of his head. He was not only very polite, but a very learned man. In spite of my sterner judgment, I could not but sympa- thize with him, as he dilated upon the historical re- collections of the old and notorious order to which he had attached himself in his youthful days. As he spoke of it in its glory, his enthusiasm broke forth with an almost inspired eloquence. His room was large and airy, and appeared to have been arranged for a study. It was furnished with two chairs and a table. A few Spanish and Latin works were lying around. He conducted us through the long halls and corridors of the monastery, and described to us the various paintings that covered 68 THE CHURCH — SUBURBS. the walls. They were principailj representations of his tutelar saint, in the different periods of his event- ful life, from his birth to his death ; also, of the cruci- fixion of our Saviour. At a distance they might re- semble pictures ; but, on approaching them, the charm fled. They proved to be most execrable daubs. The church attached to the monastery is well worth a visit. It has an immense shrine, formed by a group of figures in alto-relievo, large as life, repre- senting saints and angels, and all profusely ornament- ed with gold and silver. One of the chapters of the church contains a representation of the crucifixion carved upon stone, beautiful, both for its design and its execution. It was found by the Spaniards on the island of Cozumal, the place where Cortes first land- ed, and has caused much speculation as to its origin. On returning to the room of our worthy guide, choco- late was served ; and a conversation for an hour en- sued upon the condition of the clergy of the United States, which arose from an inquiry into the number and denomination of our monasteries! I left him alone within his cheerless walls, and wended my way back to my home ; each of us, no doubt, preferring his own situation to the other's. I can at least speak authentically as to one. I continued my rambles in the suburbs on the fol- lowing day. Here, dilapidation and ruin, and the want of cultivation, are too palpable. Churches built centuries ago, and now surrounded only by a few poor Indian huts, form a sad but instructive com- mentary upon the insufficiency of arbitrary power, THE CEMETERY — PRIEST. 59 under the control of a religious hierarchy, to deveh)pe the intellectual or the physical resources of a people. Decay and desolation have overtaken all those insti- tutions of an elder time, which now but serve, like the footsteps upon the shore of a deserted island, to prove the former presence of a more vigorous civili- zation. The hand of man has rarely interfered to protect these solemn memorials from oblivion. The grounds around them are but little cultivated, and are mostly covered by a thick growth of furze, with an occasional cocoa, orange, or tamarind tree. Here, however, the ramon grows to a great height, and is very valuable, its leaves and branches atfordiug a nutricious food for horses. About two miles from the city is a cemetery, ap- propriated to the dead of Merida. It is located in a beautiful situation ; but, like most other public places in this country, it has been utterly neglected. It com- prehends about half an acre of land, surrounded by a high wall; and is under the charge of a Catholic priest, who resides upon the premises. Those who can afford it are provided with vaults, built upon the surface of the ground. The poor are interred be- neath the soil. The priest in charge does not seem to have permitted his solemn vicinage to disturb his digestion or dampen his spirits. His sleek and port- ly appearance reminded me, at once, of the " fat, round, oily little man of God," whose repose Thom- son disturbs in his Castle of Indolence. He was kind and attentive in showing the premises ; but his 60 CLIMATE — CHURCH-FLOGGING. conversation was very feebls, and indicated a mind almost demented with superstition. The thermometer now, though the middle of January, ranges at about eighty. We have occa- sional showers, but the weather continues to be de- lightful. The mornings and evenings are perfectly enchanting;. The climate is not so uniform as that of Cuba ; rains are more frequent, and the dews more abundant. Colds and iuflu>inzas are common; and on this account it cannot, I think, be recommended to invalids with pulmonary affections. Connected with one of the monasteries of the Jesuits, is the Church of Jesus. It has partially lost its ancient splendor by the removal of valu- able plate and embellishments, which formerly be- longed to it ; and I should not detain my readers with a notice of it here, but for a most singular reli- gious ceremony which I was permitted to witness within its walls during vespers. The congregation was composed principally of Indians. After the usual ceremonies were concluded, a large Indian prostrated himself upon the floor before the altar, carefully adjusted his limbs, and laid himself out as if he Were preparing for bunal. Men, with coils of rope about their heads, representing crowns of thorns, dressed in loose garments, and bending under the weight of a heavy cross, then entered and tottered up the aisles. A cross and scull were then passed around ; the bearer repeating in Latin, as they were handed to be kissed, " This is the death, and this is the judgment !" When this form had been con- LEARNED MEN. 61 eluded, we were all supplied with whips, (I de- clined to avail myself of their politeness,) the lights were extinguished, and all was darkness. Nothing was visible but the gigantic windows, and the out- lines of the stupendous arches and fretted walls above us. The chamber of death was never more silent than was that church for the moment. While I was speculating upon w hat would probably occur next in the order of exercises, my meditations w-ere suddenly interrupted by the sounds of stripes rising and echoing through every part of the vast edifice. That there was whipping going on, I had no doubt; but whether each one did his own whipping, or had it done by his neighbors, I was, for some time, un- able to satisfy myself; but I soon discovered that the former was the case, upon the presumption, doubt- less, that each one knew how much his case requir- ed better than any one else. This penitential cere mony continued for the space of fifteen minutes, at least, without intermission. When it ceased, which was at the tinkling of a bell, the candles were relight- ed, and the assemblage slowly left the church, appa- rently perfectly satisfied that they had received no more than they deserved. I had the gratification of visiting a number of the learned men of Merida, or " sabios," as they are de- nominated by some travellers. In Yucatan, this title is not inappropriate. They are celebrated here, and very justly ; for they are tolerably well informed ; therein, having grearly the advantage of the mass of their fellow-citizens. They seem to be a chosen 62 THE OWNER OF UXMAL. band, living and moving in a distinct body within iheir own circle ; like Rosicrucians, having no kin- dred spirits to whom they can attach themselves, or from whom they can increase their numbers. Thus, in the course of ordinary events, as their days ap- proach to threescore and ten, their order must be- come gradually extinguished. One of them, to whom I paid frequent visits, was already upwards of ninety years of age, and one of the most interesting old men I have ever beheld. He seemed happy to see me ; was fond of speaking of his youthful days ; gave an account of his early studies and recreations ; and, withal, a goodly portion of fatherly advice and ad- monition. His mind appeared to be vigorous ; too much so, indeed, for the feeble state of his body. He was pleased to answer questions ; and, when ad- verting to the state of the country, spoke with much feeling, but despairingly, of every thing connected with it. I had the pleasure of meeting, to-day, with the gentlemanly owner of the estate upon which are the celebrated ruins of Uxmal. He was intelligent and communicative, and had travelled in the United States, He traced back, as far as practicable, the title-deeds of his forefathers to this land, in order, if possible, to gain some clew to its early history ; but it led to nothing that could be made available to the traveller. He expresses great confidence in Mr. Ste- phens, who is now investigating these ruins, and to whom he had rendered every facility for the prose- cution of his task. I asked him what he would take SOCIAL CONDITION OF FEMALES. 63 for the land upon which those ruins were situated; and he readily replied, five thousand dollars. I de- clined to embark in a speculation in these lands, but did not hesitate to avail myself of the letters with which he was so kind as to favor me to the major- domos of his several estates ; for which I beg leave here to express my most sincere thanks. The social condition of the female sex in Yucatan, so far as my observation extends, compares very fa- vorably with that of females of the same rank in the other provinces of Mexico. The Yucatecos ladies generally attend to their household affairs, and to the education of their children ; but though their habits are rather domestic, the standard of virtue is not to be estimated as high as in the United States. Their personal attractions are quite inconsiderable. In the absence of animation and intelligence, nothing is left to fascinate or to be loved. The brunette complexion, regular features, black hair, and eyes of the same color, predominate. They dress in the Spanish fash- ion — bright colors are generally preferred — with a light veil thrown over their heads, and a profusion of jewellery and other ornaments carefully arranged about their persons. They seldom walk out, ex- cept to church, where they appear to more advan- tage than at any other place. At their houses, their carelessness of dress amounts to slovenhness. They may be seen at almost any hour of the day, swinging in their hammocks, with cigars in their mouths, or making their toilet in the doorway of their dwellings. It is a general custom here for 64 EDUCATION. the ladies to sleep in this suspended apparatus. Those who are accustomed to the luxury of a bed- stead, are not easily reconciled to this arrangement; and I have in vain tried to discover a sufficient rea- son for the prevalence of these articles, to the exclu- sion of the bedstead. The gambling propensities of the ladies are as strong as those of the gentlemen ; which, however, they do not indulge in to so great an extent. They mingle at the public tables, but good order and deco- rum always prevail. A stranger is particularly struck with the apathy of the wife in her household affairs. She is seldom seen in conversation with her husband. Being poor- ly educated, she has no literary resources whatever. She is rarely seen with a book in her hand. The common topics of her household form the only points of intellectual contact between herself and her hus- band. Sleep is her chief resource ; and, in the swing of the hammock, many of her best hours are lost in forgetfulness. Music, I found to my great surprise, was but little cultivated. Considerable attention is paid to the education of children ; but it is not deemed necessary, by parents, for them to proceed much beyond the first rudiments. The pubhc school system is adopted, and kept up with some degree of ability, by the government and corporations. The towns are divided off into districts throughout the state, in which are two colleges and jfifty-seven schools ; besides others of select tuition, in which the elements of an ordinary education are MALES — ELECTIVE FRANCHISE. 65 taught, together with the doctrines of tlie Romish church. The impressions which I have received of the male population are as yet necessarily undefined, and would not perhaps warrant me in attempting to char- acterize them ; but, so far as my knowledge extends, I am inclined to think them a proud, though not a supercilious people. It is that Castilian sort of pride which is identified with the old Spanish character; and which has descended from him as naturally to the Mexican as his siesta. I'his gives them, even in their ignorance, some character. While they have this pride about them, we may be sure they will not degenerate into Caffres. Though they have de- clared their independence of Mexico, and have prom- ised to the world to prove themselves worthy of en- joying entire political liberty, yet it is very evident to a stranger, that a majority of the population are perfectly indifferent whether they return or remain under their present rulers. This apathy in political matters indicates a condition of the national mind, which is likely to be hut little affected by the form of government under which it exists. Their consti- tution much resembles that of the United States. They have a President, Vice President, and two houses of legislators. The elective franchise extends to all, not excepting either the Indians or the blacks. The latter class is principally composed of runaway slaves from the neighboring islands. Their number, however, is small. All religions are tolerated ; but that of the Catholic is protected ! 6 6 CUSTOMS — COMMERCE. In their private dwellings very little or no taste is displayed. Their furniture, generally, is plain. They are not very choice or select in the ornaments for their rooms, French lithographs in frames, such as are usually hung about in our bar-rooms and bar- bers' shops, being almost universal. The people throughout Yucatan are exceedingly polite to strangers. It would be well for foreigners, however, to know that W'hen, on presenting letters of introduction to the Yucatecos, they tender you all their earthly possessions, together with their personal services into the bargain ; it would be wise to get accustomed as soon as possible to the habit of being satisfied with their individual attentions, without ex- pecting an immediate transfer of the title-deeds of their estates. This would save much disappointment, as many of their civilities are empty ceremonies, of- fered only in conformity with their national customs. Commercial transactions are limited to the supply of retail dealers in the city and country. The prin- cipal articles of trade are dry goods, imported from England and France, by the way of the Balize and Havana. The exportation of the products of the country is conducted through the same channel; but owing to the poverty of the soil, and the supine- ness of the people, it is likewise very circumscribed. On the whole, so far as my personal observation has yet extended, the land presents a barrenness of ap- pearance which offers few of those inducements that have been held out for emigration, either to the hus- bandman or the mechanic. PRODUCTS — ORIGINAL INHABITANTS. 67 The agricultural products of Yucatan are numerous. Corn, resembling that of New England, which consti- tutes one of the principal articles of food, and from which tortillas are prepared, is raised here in great abundance. Also black beans, so well known to trav- ellers by the name of frejoles, constitute an agricultu- ral staple of the country. Heniken is cultivated, and prepared for exportation, to a considerable extent. It is known in the United States as " Sisal hemp," and takes its name from the port whence it is ship- ped. It is indigenous, and grows upon a rocky and apparently barren soil, to the height of about twelve feet, from a short rough trunk. It is cut at a certain period, and the fibres drawn out and dried, after which it is prepared and put up for the market. Su- gar and cotton are raised in some of the eastern dis- tricts ; but very little attention is paid to their culti- vation beyond the small demand for the home con- sumption. Hats, from the leaf of the palm, are manufactured in the interior in large quantities for exportation, and are shipped at Campeachy. They are known in our market as the " Campeachy hat." There has been much speculation, to little purpose, respecting the original inhabitants of Yucatan. It is a subject so involved \\\ doubt, that any satisfac- tory conclusions can scarcely be expected. Wal- deck* is of opinion that it was settled by different * For the use of a French copy of " Waldeck's Yucatan," I am in- debted to my distinguished countryman, Mr. Stephens, for which, and for many other civilities, I embrace this opportunity to make my sin- cere acknowledarments. 63 CONJECTUEES — LORD'S PRAYER IN MAYA. nations, broken oti' from Tobasco aud other states, who particularly used the Maya idiom. He gives further evidence of this fact, from the facial forma- tion observable in sundry of the Indians at Merida, particularly in the women, who resemble, in their physiognomy, the sculptured faces upon the stones at Palenque. The delicately tapered straight leg, small knee joints, and large shoulders, are mentioned as characteristics strongly marking a similarity of de- scent. The more distant Indians, and especiaUy those of the mountains, have preserved their idioms as well as their ancient customs in a much greater degree — their language being more piu'e. and their manners more uniform. That these people are the descendants of the an- cient Mayas, tliere is haidly room to doubt. That tongue now pervades the whole peninsula, and is un- derstood and spoken even by the whites. They were well known to be far advanced in civihzation when first discovered, the strongest evidences of which are scattered throughout the province. Their calendars have been deciphered: and their astro- nomical s}Tnbols and hieroslvphical signs have been identified with those of the Mexicans. They had also their pictiu'e TSTitings. called Gnalthes, which were executed upon bark, and folded up in the same shape as books.* * A speciinea of die Lord's Prayer in the Maya language is here tran- scribed: — Cavum }-annech ti caaoob, cilich cunabac a kaba, tac cokol a ka- haulil utzdnabac, a nolah ti luuin baix, te ti caane sa ca zamalkin, uah tcc-n helelach, 2stex is czipil bay c22zic, u zipil uh ziplob tooGe maix, a mlic e 'mbul, ti timtsbale. hanuca lukezcm. ichil lobil. Amen. WALDECK — MAYA GRAMMAR. 69 Waldeck says, and a residence of several years gives weight to his impressions, tliat the Maya now spoken partakes very little of the ancient language of the country ; more especially in the neighhorhood of large towns and cities. The continued inter- course that has existed between the Indians and Spaniards, since the conquest, has Castilianized their idiom to such an extent, that the original is nearly lost to those who are now held in vassalage. The affinity observable between the Maya and Tchole dialects proves them to be a complete medley ; and that this mixture occurred at an early period, he was convinced from the proofs he held in his own pos- session of the ancient idioms. For instance, in refer- ring to his vocabulary, he finds that those words end- ing in nn, in the Tchole tuhun, (a circle,) are tidun. The X has the sound of ch in church. The Mayas are indebted to Francis Gabriel Bonaventure, author of a work published in 2 560, called Arte del Idioma Maxja ; and to R. P. F. Pedro Beltran, who wrote in 1746,* two Franciscan monks, for this style of pro- * It is my purpose to give a more extended discussion of the Maya language in a subsequent chapter. I was so fortunate as to procure from an Indian in the interior of Yucatan the only copy I have ever seen of R. P. L. Beltrau's Grammar of this language, which is men- tioned in the text. It is entitled, " Arte de el Idioma Maya, Reducido a Succinctas Reglas y Semi Lexicon Yucateco, por el R. P. F. Pedro Bel- tran, de Santa Rosa Maria, ex-Custodio, Lector que sue de Philosophia y Theologia, Revisor del Sto. Oficio, e hijo de esta Sta. Recoleccion Fran- ciscana de Merida. Formolo y Dictolo sienda Maestro de Lengua Maya en el Convento Capitular de N. S. P. S. Francisco, de dicha Ciudad. Aao de 1742, Yolo Dedica a la Gloriosa Indiana Santa Rosa Maria de Lima, con licencia : en Mexico, por la Venda de D. Joseph Bernardo de Hogal. Afio de 1740." 70 MAYA LANGUAGE. nunciation. Waldeck affirms, that the language nOw spoken in Yucatan is not that for which those au- thors laid down the principles. It appears that these people had no written lan- guage other than their hieroglyphics. The idioms now used were put into their present shape by their conquerors, from sounds representing things, gather- ed from the lips of the Indians. Definitions of their figurative writing, so far as it can be ascertained, might lead to more satisfactory results. They might serve as guides to some knowledge of a race, which evidently practised the useful and the ornamental arts; but which probably had emigrated to this hemisphere previous to the invention of letters. The Maya dialect is very barren of expression ; and, to a stranger, difficult of pronunciation. The same word often conveys different meanings, from the peculiar manner of sounding it. In fact, to speak it well, requires careful study, and an untiring prac- tice. Under these obstructions, it w^ould take a long time to become so familiarized to the tongue, as to be able to communicate with that people in a way to discover any of those traditions that may yet lurk among them. But, after all, they are like an ex- hausted mine ; the metal which the curious seek has been extracted; and it need only be sought for in those regions where the soil has never been dis- turbed. The dress of the Indian is of the simplest kind. His food principally consists of corn ; which is pre- pared by parboiling, and crushing on a stone by INDIAN CHARACTERISTICS. 71 means of a roller. When ready, it is made into balls ; and, after being mixed with water, it is ready to be eaten. Corn is broken in the same way, and made into cakes called tortillas, which are the favorite food of all classes of society in this province. The wages for Indian service are from one to four dollars per month ; the largest portion of which, in very many cases, is expended for candles and other offerings to their chosen saint. In general these Indians are ex- tremely mild and inoffensive. Drinking is their most decided vice ; but even this, as we have already remark- ed, cannot be called a prevaihng one. They are a listless rather than indolent race, and never " think for the morrow." They have quite an amiable expres- sion in their countenances, and their mode of con- versation is pleasing. Their features remind one ol those of the Asiatic more than of any other. Their stature is short and thick-set, having but little resem- blance to that of the North American Indian. We looked in vain for their pastimes — they have none, except those connected with the church. They sel- dom dance or sing. They are wholly under the sur- veillance of the priests, and are the most zealous dev^otees to their rites and ceremonies. Their hours of leisure are passed in their hammocks, or else in silently squatting about the corners of the streets. Though they wear the outside show of freedom, they have not even as much liberty as the most abject vassal of the middle ages. They are literally degra- ded to the position of serfs. They are always in debt, and are consequently at the mercy of their 72 CONDITION OF THE INDIANS. creditors, who, by the law of the country, have a Hen upon their services until their debts are cancelled. This, together with the absence of nearly all the or- dinary encouragements to exertion, common in a colder climate, and among a more progressive peo- ple, conspires to keep the Indian Yucatecos in a state of listless bondage, which they endure without a murmur, and we may add, from our own observation, without much positive suftering. Legalized slavery, as it is well known, does not exist in any part of Mexico. i: ".Jlli:^ A YtrcATEco Indian's house. CHAPTER IV. Preparations for the Interior — Outfit, &c. — The Indian Boy — Depart- ure from Merida — Arrival at Tixcoco — Calcachen — A Feast-day — Isamal at a distance — Arrival there — Our Palace — A Procession — Ancient Mounds — The Church — A striking Indian — Wrong Im- pressions — Tuncax — A Dilemma — Philosophy of the Road-side — A Dinner — Visit to a Curate — A Touch of Comfort — Mail Carrier — Sitax — An Indian Alcalde — Tinum — An Allusion — Valladolid — A Mistake rectified in time. The varying and unsatisfactory accounts which I had received of the interior of Yucatan, had awa- kened in me an irresistible desire to explore it, al- though I tried in vain to define to myself the cause of my curiosity. Partly through a desire of novelty, and partly for the want of a more definite purpose, I resolved to invade those unexplored regions which had not yet found a corner in our geographies, nor even been reached by the all-pervading spirit of traf- fic. As soon as I had resolved, I addressed myself to the preparation of my outfit; in which, despite the ignorance and indolence of my Mexican aids, I was ultimately successful. To some future traveller, it may be interesting to know the nature of my preparation. In the first place, then, I provided myself with an over-all shirt, (pockets made to order,) Mexican rid- 74 PREPARATIONS FOR THE INTERIOR — OUTFIT. ing-trousers, and palrn-leaf hat. In addition to these, were a hammock and a striped blanket ; the latter article Americanized by ornamental stars, represent- ing the emblems of my country, in white, red, and blue; under which one could sleep, fight, or negotiate, as circumstances might require. Of weapons, defen- sive and conciliatory, there were a double-barrelled gun, an Indian knife, and rather a limited amount of the smallest Spanish coin. The Indian and the Bowie knife are very similar in weight and shape. The former is an indispensable accompaniment upon a journey through this peninsula. It may be seen that, if driven to the wall, a very tolerable show of defence might have been made. The cooking arrangements consisted of tin cups and pans, salt, and loco-foco matches. My philo- sophical and mathematical instruments were a mem- orandum book, an ordinary lead pencil, and a pocket compass ! The instruments and dress were intrust- ed to no one but myself — the latter enveloped my person, while the former occupied those invaluable shirt-pockets, of which I claim to be the original inventor. To the Indian boy Jose, (pronounced Hosay,) whom I hired as a servant to accompany me, and who will be hereafter better known to my readers, was intrusted the other portion of my luggage. The boy, to whom allusion has just been made, was decidedly genteel in his appearance. Though he has been termed a boy, he is of the kind who, among the Irish, never become men until they are DEPARTURE FROM MERIDA — TIXCOCO. 75 married. He was about five-and-twenty years of age. His mother and sisters thought the world of him, and well they might ; for he was most worthy of their affections. Both his physical and mental powers were very symmetrical. He was active^ in- dustrious, and faithful. If he had any fault, perhaps it was in being too amorous. I do not feel disposed, however, to quarrel with a constitutional infirmity. I left the agreeable residence of Dona Michaele, in company with my Jidus Achates, on the twenty- ninth of January, on one of the most lovely morn- ings that the eye of God ever looked out upon to bless. Our route was eastward, towards Valladolid. The road was wide, and in excellent condition, being one of the principal thoroughfares. This road is under the superintendence of government; and the expen- ses of its repairs are defrayed by a tax, similar to the road-tax usually levied in the United States. At ten o'clock we arrived at the town of Tixcoco, and rode up to the Casa-real; which belongs to a class of houses set apart by the municipal authori- ties of every town for the accommodation of travel- lers. They are the substitutes for public houses ; a convenience almost unknown to the country. The Casa-real is also the receptacle for the public property of the place — such as implements of labor, punishment, &c. — consisting of crowbars, hand- cuffs, wooden scale-beams, and drums, staffs of the alcaldes, &c. These accommodations and depositories are in 7 6 TORTILLAS — FEE JOLES — CALC ACHEN. charge of some six or eight Indians, who are draft- ed to serve one year, under the direction of the al- caldes, who represent aldermen in the judicial capa- city. These Indians also attend upon the wants of strangers, and depend wholly upon the small pit- tances they receive for their support. It is almost needless to add,, what follows necessarily from the tenure of their offices, that they are idle, negligent, and without enterprise. At a quarter before eleven I took breakfast, which had been brought from some neighboring house. It was composed of eggs, tortillas, and frejoles. The tortillas are a kind of corn-cakes, and constitute the principal bread of the country. Frejoles are small black beans, in general use in all the provinces of Mexico, and occupy the same elevated rank in the domestic economy of that nation that the potato does in Ireland. To complete the morning's repast, a calabash of 7?iaza was added. This is a drink prepared with corn, and is usually drunk by the na- tives in the place of tea and coffee. The town of Tixcoco is ornamented with a large church, and the appurtenances thereto usually belonging in Catholic countries; but the dwellings, generally, are mere Indian huts, of mud walls and thatched roofs. At three o'clock, after the heat of the day, w^e again started upon our route ; and at six, rode up to the Casa-real of Calcachen, where we stopped dar- ing the night. The best room in the house was placed at our disposal. The corners of the apart- PREPARATIONS FOR A FESTIVAL— THE INDIANS. 77 ment proved that it had been swept ; for the collec- tions of months still remained theire, a standing evi- dence of the fact. The Casa-real, according to universal custom, fronts upon a public square ; where great preparations were at this time making to celebrate some one of the religious festivals on the following Monday. An amphitheatre was erected, formed of poles, having a row of seats overlooking the arena, where bull-fights were to take place. In the evening, in anticipation of the festival, guns were discharged, and a display of fireworks took place from the roof of the church. The Indians, on these occasions, hke our juvenile patriots previous to the fourth of July, usually anti- cipate the sport of the festal day some forty-eight hours or more before it arrives. Next morning (Sunday) I was awakened before daylight by the noise of the natives, who, as usual, could not restrain their impatience for the arrival of their day of rejoicing. Wooden drums and horns were brought in requisition ; and, at sun-rise, rockets were being discharged from the church. The bells were I'ung, the crowd entered the building, and quiet was restored. Preparatory to cleansing our guns, previous to our departure from this town, they were discharged. This was understood by the Indians to be a com- plimentary salute to their saint, and they crowded around me, to my great annoyance, insisting that I should remain with them until the end of the feast. Flattering as was this invitation, which, at one time, 78 ISAMAL — QUARTERS. I thought I should be compelled to accept, I succeed- ed in declining without giving offence. Bidding them adieu, we saddled our horses, and were once more upon the road. After passing through two small Indian towns of little notoriety, we arrived at Isamal at noon. The road continued to be good; and four miles distant, the church could be seen, throwing the shadows of its massive walls over the surrounding objects. On arriving at the Casa-real, it was found to be deplorably filthy and uncomfortable ; to which I was in no condition of mind or body to submit. I went in quest of the Colonel of the town, whom I found to be a quondam friend, and an old house- mate at Dona Michaele's, in Merida, and that he had been recently appointed to this station. From the natural politeness of this gentleman, I was guarantied a kind reception, and such good quar- ters were provided as to make me feel quite at home ; as all will be prepared to believe, when they know , of the accommodations. We were the sole proprietors of a lordly mansion, with a retinue of Indians to attend our bidding. The structure which we inhabited occupies one side of a large square, and is raised upon strong and well-built arches of about twelve feet, supporting the long ranges of halls, rooms, and pillared corridors, of easy access by steps leading off at different sec- tions. The whole was quite imposing in its appear- ance, and not the less attractive for having been re- FESTIVAL — ANCIENT MOUNDS. 79 cently cleansed and whitewashed. This building was used for public offices in Isamal's better days. I occupied the south-eastern angle of the mansion, looking out upon the square and market-place. The scene without, however, was not very fascinating. A few Indian women only were to be observed, selling or carrying meats and vegetables; and mules browsing over the grounds. Sunday evening was being observed here by a long procession from one of the churches, composed of priests, and upwards of four hundred Indian girls, clad in plain white cotton dresses, each carrying a lighted candle. It was a beautiful and even an im- posing sight. In this procession was carried a figure of the Virgin, surrounded by all the symbols of the church, upon a stage preceded by music, and herald- ed with occasional displays of fire-works. In the morning, at an early hour, I visited the suburbs of the town, where I observed a number of mounds, the highest of which I judged to be from fifty to sixty feet, and which I ascended. The sides were very precipitous, and covered with loose stones. I was compelled to pull myself up by the aid of the bushes that overgrew the surface. Before reaching the summit, and about two-thirds of the way from the base, is a square platform of about two acres in extent, in the centre of which is a well, partially filled in with stones, and more or less over- grown with vegetation. This dilapidation and de- cay had evidently been the work of centuries. From the top of this mound there was a fine pros^ 80 REFLECTIONS — THE PRIEST. pect. The view of the town, with its elevated church, and the flat-roofed, Moorish-looking houses, with the trees of the tropics interspersed, and the tall cocoa, varying the surface of the extended country in the distance, presented a rural scene rarely to be met with in this country. The plane surface of the land around these eleva- tions, precludes the supposition that they are natural formations. Their origin and purpose can only be surmised. Probably they were fortifications — per- haps look-out places : — " An observatory, from whence to overlook The surrounding world at one broad glance, And view their wily foes." Be this as it may, I felt awed when I looked upon them. I could not but feel that they established a sort of parenthetic connexion between myself and elder ages, and a strange people who had customs now unknown, and of whom history has preserved no better memorials than the indistinct yet eloquent piles of stone and earth before me. After our breakfast, I called at the house of the curate, but he was absent ; asserting the prerogative of the traveller, I thereupon introduced myself to the priest in charge, and informed him that I was a stranger, and should not be ungrateful for any atten- tions that might be bestowed upon me in that char- acter. His reception was rather cool ; but, as my object was to obtain information, I affected not to notice it. After some trivial delays, I was enabled to visit the church which had so struck my eye as I THE CHURCH — THE PRIEST. 81 approached the city, and which I was desirous of seeing. It is situated in the centre of the city, upon an artificial elevation, which once, no doubt, was the site of some important structure of the ancient peo- ple who formerly inhabited this province. It was probably destroyed to make room for a monastery — the ruins of which (the church which forms a part of it being preserved) cover some acres of land. The church was filled with rude carving, and with still more rude and incomprehensible paintings. Within the walls, which encompass the whole of the grounds, is a square that once must have been a mag- nificent place, but which is now totally neglected. It has on three sides a double row of pillars, forming a beautiful promenade, from which the country, as far as the eye can reach, is overlooked. The priest who conducted me over the premises, seemed to know nothing of the church in which he officiated, and even less, if possible, of the city and its environs, whence came the patronage on which he subsisted. The Latin inscription upon the build- er's tablet was incomprehensible to him ; but it is no more than justice to say, that he was evidently cha- grined by the ignorance which he had been forced to exhibit. He conducted me to the turret, and pointed out the clock for my inspection ; it was a rare piece of mechanism ; but the most striking part of it was a live Indian stationed beside it, to strike the hours. The towns throughout this portion of the interior are well laid out, and the houses well built ; every 6 82 TRADE — HABITS. thing looks as though they might be inhabited by a stirring people. Arriving in one of them at the close of the day, the stranger is led to attribute the pervading quiet to that particular time ; in the morning he would think the same ; but, at morning, noon, and night, the same composing monotony reigns, and all days, (those of the feasts excepted,) and all places, are alike. A listless apathy seems to hang around them — a pervading stillness and inactivity, which are painful to observe. The principal stores are kept by the whites, who, in the ratio of population, are to the Indians, about as one to six. Their stock comprises all descriptions of goods required by the inhabitants ; among which the article of distilled liquors is the most promi- nent — the demand for which, I observed, increased, as I advanced into the interior. The Indian of the town clock has this moment struck one ; the stores are closed, and the streets de- serted. The whole of the population, excepting a few straggling natives, are in their hammocks. Mid- night is on us in pantomime, without its darkness. In fifteen minutes more, all Yucatan, literally, may be said to be asleep — even my Jose now is looking at me with a drowsy eye, and wondering, no doubt, why I do not follow the example. The climate is really enervating, and I have determined to swing a w^hile, if it be only to learn not to condemn the habits of others. On the following morning we left Isamal, stopping occasionally upon the road-side, to examine the so- SONATOS — JOSE — TUNCAX, 83 natos which lay in our route. These are large wells, which apparently have been formed by convulsions of Nature, in the midst of silicious and calcareous rocks. They contain a never failing supply of good water, and are a rendezvous of Indians, and halt- ing-places for the muleteers, who usually are found taking their refreshments there. The calabash of Maza was always tendered to us with unrestrained hospitality, and we were almost uniformly asked to partake of their other provisions. Sharing the food of these humble wayfarers is an unfailing guarantee of their good-will, and to decline, if not construed as an offence, would certainly wound their sensibihty. I frequently had occasion to observe the tact that Jose possessed of making himself agreeable to those we met upon the road, and was often reminded of my good fortune in having secured his valuable ser- vices. Parting from our transient friends, we hurried on in a vain effort to escape a violent shower which threatened us, and which overtook us in time to drench us thoroughly before we got refuge, at noon, in the Casa-real at Tuncax. It is too late for me to expect any credit for re- marking the mutability of all human affairs; but I was reminded of the fact to-day with all the force of a new revelation. But this morning I was quartered like a prince, with a palace for a dwelling, and a ca- cique's retinue to obey my bidding ; and now,^ there is not an Indian so poor as to do me reverence. The floor of the Casa-real into which fate had cast 84 PHILOSOPHY — DINNER — THE CURATE. me was not entirely covered with water. The ham- mock swung clear of the mud. There evidently had been a roof over head, and my situation would have been positively worse in the streets. Comparative- ly, then, I was comfortable. The rain too had al- most ceased ; the Indians were coming in, and the prospects of a dinner were brightening. Across the square stood the church, with its heavy walls blackened with the sun and the rain, with its ga- bled front, and pigeon-holed apex, and its trio of bells. By its side stood the house of the curate, with its low sides, and high though dilapidated thatched roof. There were some half dozen stores scattered about, and a few stone buildings, no doubt inhabited by the whites ; the rest of the town, as usual, is made of Indian huts. The dinner came, and it satisfied me that none can appreciate the importance of a meal, except those who have tried it after a day's riding and fasting in a country like this. After a hearty repast of tortillas and frejoles, the weather was consulted, with a view of continuing our journey ; but the result was not flatter- ing. The fact was much clearer than the sky, that we were to remain here during the night, and there was no friendly Colonel within reach to rescue me from my lodgings. But it struck me that there must be some resource. The curate appeared to be the only chance, so to his house I wended my way, and entered with the customary " Ave Maria" upon my lips. He was swinging in his hammock. I introduced myself to him at once ; described COMFORTS — VISIT TO THE CHURCH. 8^ the deplorable state of the Casa-real, and solicited his influence in obtaining us more comfortable quar- ters. He received me very kindly, and promised to do all in his power to make me comfortable ; and right well he kept his word. A bottle of " Abenaro," a peculiar liquor of the country, and its accompani- ment of cigars, were speedily sent for ; and, in much jess time than it requires to partake of either, I dis- covered that I was at home, at the house of my friend, the curate of Tuncax. A long and animated conversation followed, which, I only recollect, was poorly understood by either, in consequence of the small amount of words which we comprehended in common. It was, mainly, of a po- litical cast ; politics being the subject in which he appeared to take most interest The curate was a young man, who, compared with many of his order in the country, had devoted much time to study. He has possessed the curacy for the last four years ; but, if one may draw con- clusions from things around, it is not a very lucrative situation. Everything in the vicinity indicated extreme pov- erty ; and I felt some embarrassment in asking to see his church and its nakedness. This, however, was happily obviated by a polite invitation, on his part, to conduct me through it. So, putting on his black velvet and silk, and mounting a curious high-peaked hat, and taking his telescope in his hand, he led the way over the broken stone floors, and along the dark damp halls, to the edifice. 86 ATTENTIONS— A SUPPER. As we entered, he remarked that it was poor. In- deed, that was plainly impressed upon everything in and about it. It had not even cleanliness and order to relieve its appearance. We passed through it, and ascended, by a flight of stone steps on the out- side, to the roof, where, by the aid of the telescope, we had a fine view of the surrounding country. On returning, my kind host made such immediate and complete arrangements for our accommodation, as guarantied to my 7nenage not only comfort, but some degree of splendor. On reaching the house that had been made ready for our reception, my friend, the curate, informed me that it was mine, and desired me to call for whatever I wished. The sad- dlebags and hammock were sent for, and everything was soon in a comfortable condition. The table was supplied with refreshments, and ornamented with large earthen cups of cool water, on the surface of which full-blown red roses were floating. The gar- den attached to my house, which I supposed, of course, was included in the gift, was fragrant with ripe oranges, and other delicious fruits. Besides all these, a whole troop of Indians were in attendance, to await my behests. There stands the Casa-real, our deserted hovel, just across the way. These sudden changes absolutely require nerve. Between the kindness of the curate, the company of a civil dignitary of the town, and two other citi- zens, as guests, and a supper, which, I flatter myself, I was fully prepared to appreciate, served up with the unusual luxury of knives and forks, I contrived THE ROAD-SIDE — MAIL-CARRIER. 87 to pass one of the most agreeable evenings that I had enjoyed since my departure from home. At three o'clock on the following morning, we made ready to leave. The church was already lighted up, and the worthy curate at his post. At four we were in our saddles, and were soon mak- ing our way upon the road. The sky was clear and bright. The moon was half gone, throwing a som- bre light upon all things around us. The green bushes by the road-side looked black; and the bleach- ed wood of the rude crosses, erected at the pathway entrances to the haciendas, appeared forlorn and startling. We met with but one living thing upon the road, and that was the mail-carrier. Neither the trampling of horses, nor the sound of horn, heralded his ap- proach ; but the clamping sounds of his wooden san- dals, as they struck upon the stony road, gave us the first notice that he was near. The mail was con- tained in a small box, held by a strap, which passed round the head of the carrier, who was an Indian. At eight o'clock we arrived at Sitax, the prettiest town we had seen ; where we stopped for breakfast and to obtain a horse, that of Jose having given out. As I strolled about the place, I noticed a more mark- ed appearance of order than was generally to be seen in the other towns. At the house of an old Indian I saw an earthen vase, something of the Etruscan shape, which he told me had been found among some of the ancient ruins in this province. He used it as an incense-burner; and refused to sell, or even to 88 THE ALCALDE AT SITAX — TINUM. set a price upon it. Money is not omnipotent with these Indians, as in most civilized countries ; and this prostration of the divinity ahuost startled me. On returning to the Casa-real, breakfast and an alcalde were sent for. Both came. The former consisted of the almost undeviating course- — eggs, tortillas, and frejoles ; and the latter, of a strapping big Indian, barefooted, bearing his staff of office, and accompanied by one of his aids. My wants were soon explained ; and he immediately despatched his aid, who brought an Indian that agreed to carry Jose and luggage to Valladolid, eight leagues, for the sum of half a dollar. The bargain was concluded, and the money paid in advance, as is always customary among the natives. This demand must be complied with uniformly. Even the women who wash clothes require a inedio in advance, to buy soap. The luggage was lashed to the back of a mule, and we were again upon the road. Several stops were made by the way, to visit haciendas and ran- chos, (grain and cattle farms ;) but little of interest occurred upon our journey. We arrived at the town of Tinum at two o'clock. The sun being exces- sively hot, we waited till evening. The Casa-real in this, as in other towns of the province, was the loafering-place of the Indians. They were squatted about in the shade, silent and motionless, killing time to the best of their abilities. At four o'clock we again betook ourselves to the road, and passing through several inconsiderable Indian towns, arrived THE ROADS — VALLADOLli). 89 at Valladolid at dusk on the fourth day of February, distance one hundred and twenty miles from Merida. For the greater part of the way from Isamal to this city, the road is level, though somewhat rough. As we drew near to Valladolid, gentle risings were more common at intervals, particularly near the sona- tos. Although this road commences at the capital, and leads through all the principal cities and towns of the interior, it is but little travelled. No wheel car- riages, of any description, were seen. Transporta- tion is mostly effected by mules — perhaps I should say, by Indians ; many of whom were met upon the road with heavy packages secured upon their backs, and held by plaited ropes passed around the head in the usual manner. After a fatiguing day's journey, we reined up in the square of the city, before the Casa-real, and dis- mounted. I discovered, however, before entering, that it was full ; and, upon inquiry, ascertained that it was occupied by prisoners, who were detained there while their usual place was undergoing repairs. This sort of association not being altogether agree- able to me, we remounted, and went in quest of a countryman, who I heard was residing here. Successful, after much inquiry, in finding him, my name, the object of my visit to Valladolid, &c., were all communicated to him in due form ; but some- how Mr. Stephens, who had been daily expected her6 for the last two months, had got into the head of my new acquaintance, as I afterwards learned, and, in his confusion, he had mistaken me for that celebrated 90 MISTAKE RECTIFIED m TIME. traveller, and led me, without my being aware of the misconception, to the house of a friend who had been long advised of that gentleman's approach. I was met by the polite and hospitable owner of the house, and invited to walk in, while orders were giv- en to have care taken of the horses. But, mistrust- ing that all was not right, I halted at the threshold, and requested a parley. It was only with a consid- erable degree of earnestness that I was enabled to convince him that I was neither Mr. Stephens nor the Medico, (alluding, probably, to Dr. Cabot, one of the companions of Mr. Stephens.) The amiable lady and her daughter were quite amused at the incident, and seemed rather to enjoy my embarrass- ment than otherwise. I drew off, and followed my countryman to his quarters, where I was kindly en- tertained for the night. This was rather a laughable circumstance; but I congratulated myself that we came to an understanding in time to prevent its be- coming ludicrous. A EOAD SIDE. CHAPTER V. Festival of the Purification — A Factory Discovered — New Quarters — Appearance of Public Buildings — Church — Singular Display of Taste — Population and Health — The Town — Its Suburbs — Monastic Ruins — Remarkable Sonato — Amusements — The Riband Dance — The Market Place — Cotton — Ancient Ruins — Difficulties of Stran- gers — A Norther — Kaua — The Churlish Curate --End of a Feast — The Route — Approach to Chi-Chen — A Glimpse of the Ruins. Travelling gear was now thrown aside, the toi- let consuked, and in a few moments I was in a procession in honor of the " Purification of the Ho- ly Virgin," with head uncovered, as devout a Catho- lic as could be met within the precincts of the Vati- can, or, at least, within the congregation about me, if I might be permitted to judge from the appendix to their devotional exercises on the present occasion. The men, women, and children, as soon as they had concluded these ceremonies here, started in a body, with a revolting precipitation, to the gaming tables, which had been set forth in the ruins of an old con- vent adjoining the sanctuary where the procession had just been dissolved ! Here were found all class- es of society, male and female. The highest eccle- siastical and civil dignitaries were there, hob and nob, with the most common of the multitude. The ladies generally interested themselves in the games, and some- 92 A FACTORY. times played deep. They were, most of them, good- looking, and tastefully dressed ; but they quite stared me out of countenance. I doubtless appeared as strange to them, as they and their customs did to me. I contrived, however, to survive their scrutiny. Af- ter lounging about the long corridors where the com- pany was assembled, observing and being observed for two hours, and feeling fatigued, not only with the scenes around, but with the day's ride, I hastened to my quarters, and the quiet of the pillow. Awaking at an early hour in the morning, the sounds of a steam-engine greeted my ear. No mu- sic ever thrilled me with so much delight. For a moment I dreamed that I was in the land of the work- ingman, and within the charmed circle of his minis- trations. On looking out, however, in the direction whence the noise proceeded, I noticed a cotton factory in a neighboring street. I need not say that it became the very first object of my curiosity. The proprietor of this establishment, to whom I had letters, is a gentleman of the old school, well informed and communicative ; and, withal, a liberal man. He was a native of Spain ; in his early years was attached to the navy of that kingdom ; and, among other things in his eventful life, was at the battle of Trafalgar. Since he has resided in Yu- catan he has been its governor, and held many other high and responsible stations, and is now esteemed one of its most valuable citizens. His attentions to me, during my stay, were as real as they were unremit- tine;. He informed me that the factory was estab- THE TRAVELLER IN YUCATAN. 93 lished by himself, in connexion with others, in 1834. The engine, looms, &c., were brought from New- York, and transported across the country, from the port of Sisal to this place, in wagons imported for the purpose. It was an arduous as well as a very expensive undertaking. The proprietor has over- come many obstacles which he had to encounter at the commencement of his enterprise, and is now suc- cessfully established, with a very fair business. His was the first, and is still the only one in the country, I found it in complete order, and conducted upon the most liberal scale, yielding to those employed more than double the amount of wages usually paid in this state. The building was of the most durable stone ; two stories high, forty-five by seventy-five feet, and with an arched roof, supported by strong hutments. The style of the arched roof is common to this coun- try, owing to the absence of large timber. The ground it occupies, including the out-houses, is about one hundred and fifty by two hundred feet. The first floor contains the looms, twenty in number ; and the second, a thousand spindles, with a picker and gin. It turns out four hundred yards of cloth per day, of a uniform medium quality, of a strong texture, which is considered superior to either the American or the English of the same class. It employs fifty men, principally of the half-breeds, who are paid by the piece. The cost of the building and machinery was upwards of forty thousand dollars. The traveller, in this country, is often subjected to the unpleasant necessity of thrusting himself upon 94 QUARTERS -THE SQUARE. the civility of the inhabitants of the towns he visits, owing to the almost total absence of public houses, and the miserable condition of many of the Casa- reals ; but foreign visiters are seldom here, so that the kindnesses I have thus far experienced, appear to be tendered with the utmost cheerfulness. The people do not feel the presence of a guest to be irksome ; and, whatever may be said of their characters, the want of hospitality to strangers cannot be charged against them. The kind friend to whom I have alluded, procured for me comfortable quarters in an unoccupied build- ing in the square, of which I at once took possession. It is situated in front of the church, and adjoins the curate's house, which is tenanted by himself and his three or iouxfemmes propres a tout, and fifteen or six- teen children, who are taught to call him father. The square itself is a fine one ; or, rather, there is room for a fine one ; but, like most other fine squares in the towns I have visited, is destitute of style or decoration. The public buildings, which are the town-house, of two stories, with low pillared arches, and the church, are all that strike the eye of the stranger ; the others are comprised of some few one- story dwelling houses and stores, with huge doors and barred windows, occupied by citizens and small dealers. The area of this square serves as a market- place, and a pasture for mules to graze ! The church presents a neat appearance from with- out, and is one of the very handsomest buildings I had seen in the country. It is of stone, covered with THE CHURCH — HEALTH. 95 a yellow stucco. The door lintels and arches are of carved stone ; it has two square turrets, in good keeping, and is set off with a well-proportioned dome. There are some irregularities, however ; but these are not seen, except from particular points of observation. The interior of this, as of most of the churches in the province, is in a bad condition ; its decorations are in barbarous taste, and its shrines defaced. Its ex- terior impresses one with an idea of its vastness ; but, on entering, it appears diminutive. This is owing to the great depth of the walls, of this and similar build- ings throughout Yucatan, which are frequently from twelve to fifteen feet thick. At the entrance is a shrine, representing our Saviour bearing his cross, assisted by the figure of a man in tight shorts, of the old English style, and coat to match. The hat worn by the adjutant was not absolutely bad, but in shock- ing bad taste. It was a silk imitation beaver ; being one of those high, bell-crowned narrow-rims, of the style worn some fifteen or twenty years ago. This was probably intended for " Simon of Cyrene." The incumbent of this curacy has a large income, which, it is said, he has enjoyed for many years, without having ever entered the walls of his church. The number of inhabitants of Valladolid and its suburbs, is estimated at about fifteen thousand. The place is noted throughout the peninsula for the salu- britv of its climate; and no better evidence need be adduced, than the simple fact of there not being a single doctor or apothecary in the whole district. Citizens from other parts of the province, less fa- 96 THE STREETS -THE ELITE — SUBURBS. vored, come here to recruit and to recover their health. The streets are well laid out, and clean ; but grass grows in the centre of the most frequented. The same style of building is observed here as in other parts of this country that I have visited. The houses are principally of one story, flat roofs, large doors, and barred windows ; with court-yards, stone and mortar floors, &c. Many large houses in the chief streets, within sight of the square, were fast going to decay. There are no societies, or private or public places of instruction or amusement. This is singular, when it is considered that the native inhabitants speak of their noble city, as they term it, with great pride, and call themselves the elite of Yucatan. This point I am not prepared to dispute. It is certain, however, that the city, or its society, presents few evidences of the schoolmaster having been abroad among them. The suburbs, or " barrios" as they are locally call- ed, are five in number ; each having a church and its attendant priest. The population, with a very few exceptions, is composed of poor Indians, the major part of whom, of both sexes, go habitually in puris naturalibus, or nearly so ; living in mean huts, and supporting large and expensive churches ; while they themselves appear to be contented to subsist alone upon corn and water. In the barrio Sisal is the ruin of an old convent. Its crumbling walls tell of changes that are slowly developing themselves in the civilized world. It was an immense structure in its time, covering a space MONASTIC RUINS. 97 of two acres, enclosed within a higli stone wall ; and remains a painful monument of the mighty power which the order of Loyola, its original proprietors, once exercised upon the destinies of this country. All that is now left is the church, and the house of the priest. The cloisters, corridors, and squares, are all fast going to pieces ; and fragments of them are lying about in every direction. Its spacious halls are now the abode of the poor Indian, who aspires to a portion of the hallowed influence which is re- puted to hang around its dilapidated walls. The crumbling turrets and blackened domes are covered with a wild vegetation, and have become a perch for the buzzard, and the hiding-place for loathsome rep- tiles. One of the wells connected with the monas- tery is dug through a solid rock to the depth of one hundred and fifty feet, when it opens upon a subter- raneous river of pure water. In former times, a hand- some temple was erected over it ; the remains of a part of its dome still exist. There are not many pleasing associations connected with these places. The other barrios have nothing of interest. They are thickly populated by the listless natives, who, as usual, live in their small huts, constructed with poles and mud. Nothing was to be observed like thrift or industry. They were the most wretched specimen of human beings that I saw in the country. The churches, too, like all things else around them, are growing old. Literally, every thing appears to be left here to take care of itself. The roads in the vi- cinity are narrow, broken, rocky pathways for mules. 7 98 SONATO — AJVnJSEMENTS. During my walks about the city I came to a sona- to, reputed to be the largest in the province, supposed to be a portion of a subterraneous river ; and caused, as I judged, by some great convulsion of nature. It presents a fine spectacle, resembling the mouth of a cavern, with its overhanging rocks and broken frag- ments left or worn away into the shape of inverted cones. Evidently, it was once hidden ; and when or how it effected an opening, no one hereabouts can tell. All that the Indian knows is, that it affords him an abundant and good supply of water. The average depth of the water is twelve fathoms ; while the distance from its surface to the surface of the ground above, is full fifty feet. The well itself has no perceptible outlet, and is about fifty feet in cir- cumference. The surrounding rocks are principally calcareous, with a silicious intermixture. These so- natos are held in superstitious reverence by the In- dians. They are reputed to be the places where most of their religious legends had their origin. The Indians and Mestizos here still hold on to some of the old customs and amusements of their forefathers, upon which they pride themselves. Among the latter, that of dancing appears to be most popular in Valladolid, and usually takes place every fair evening, during the festivals, in or near one of the squares. Around the place designated for the entertainment, as I frequently observed, were placed benches for the dancing-girls, who arrange them- selves in a row, separated from the crowd. They are chosen in regular rotation, and led out to dance. RIBAND OR POLE DANCE. 99 Their toilet was of the olden time, but it set off their plain features and low stature to good advantage. Their head-gear was a black silk hat, of the style usually worn by gentlemen, with gold and silver bands, intermixed with roses and long plumes of feathers ; and their rich black hair, neatly braided, hung down the back, and almost swept the ground. The dress consisted of a loose white garment, sus- pended gracefully from the shoulders, ornamented at the top and bottom with various colored needlework, and white silk stockings and shoes — the whole beau- tiful and chaste. They danced with much skill and taste. The men wore shirts and trousers made of calico, with sash and blanket. The latter article is thrown over the shoulder, and carried with a grace which one looks for in vain out of Mexico. The sight was altogether enchanting ; and I imagined for the moment that I beheld before me the royal abun- dance and Indian simplicity of the court of Monte- zuma. The three days of masquerade before lent, (Ash- Wednesday,) commenced on Sunday, the sixth of February. The riband, or pole dance, among the masqueraders, excited the most attention. A pole, about twenty feet long, was raised perpendicularly, from the top of which were fastened fifteen or twen- ty pieces of wide, variously-colored ribands. Each dancer, laying hold of a piece and extending it, form- ed a wide circle around the pole. The dancing commenced at a given signal, all joining. They crossed each other with the greatest precision, and 100 MARKET-PLACES — SOIL. in sucli order as to form a beautiful lattice or net- work with the ribands, until they were wound up. The figure then suddenly changes, and the ribands, by a reverse movement, are unwound. This they continue until they are tired. The evenings of the three days were finished by balls at the house of some one of the citizens, where the most respecta- ble part of the population was to be seen. The market-places of the interior, generally, pre- sent a singular appearance to the eye of a stranger. The sellers are principally Indians, squatted about upon the ground, with small pieces of meat laid out in piles, and vegetables displayed in the same man- ner, upon benches beside them, in the public square. The currency, of cacao seed, is also counted out in small parcels, ready to make change to customers. The market-place is vacated at an early hour in the morning by both customers and venders, to be occu- pied, for the remainder of the day, by turkey-buz- zards and dogs ; which are suffered to legislate upon, negotiate for, and try as best they may, any disputed claims wliich may arise to the property left behind by their predecessors of the morning. The country in the vicinity of Valladolid is much broken and rocky, and carries unequivocal indica- tions of earthquakes and convulsions. The soil is very thin, but good crops of corn are taken from it. ^ The fruit-trees of the tropics are abundant, and yet no attention is paid to their cultivation, either for use or for ornament. The cotton plantations, or rather the districts COTTON — VARIOUS RUIN'S. 101 where the material is raised that is consumed in the manufactory in this city, arc to the north, and known as the " Tizimen district." The same spot is seldom cultivated for two successive seasons. After the crop is gathered, the ground is suffered to be overrun with weeds and brushwood ; which, when years have elapsed, are cut down and burnt, and the field is re-planted. Cotton here is not in classification ; it is gathered and sold in the seed, and ranges from ten to fifteen cents per pound. It is generally superior, both in texture and color ; but the indolence of the natives, and other causes, will prevent the extensive cultivation of that article for many years to come. I learned, during my sojourn here, that there were many interesting places, further to the east, worthy the attention of the stranger — ancient buildings, and even cities — some as far east as the island of Cozumel. I also heard of ruins in the neighborhood of Chi-Chen, which, for reasons that need not be mentioned, I concluded to visit first. The owner of this hacienda, which is situated about eleven leagues to the west-south-west from this city, resides here. Having learned my intentions, he not only very gen- erously offered me the use of his house, which is near to the ruins, but sent his major-domo to have it pre- pared for my reception. On the morning of the eighth of February, after again experiencing the instability and fickleness of the natives, and that apathy and indolence prover- bially characteristic of them, I succeeded, through the aid of my friend, in securing a guide and horse 102 INDIANS — DEPARTURE — KAUA. to conduct us thither. The Indian, who is the travel- ler's sole reliance, as previously remarked, in all kinds of menial service, can hardly be induced to work, unless from the necessity of supplying his own im- mediate w^ants, or under the orders of the alcalde, to whom strangers are often obhged to apply for assist- ance in compelling these indolent people to assist them. In such a case, the aggrieved party enters his complaint to the alcalde, stating that he has endeav- ored to hire an Indian, but that he refuses. The Indian is then sent for, and his reasons for declining heard : if not satisfactory, and they seldom are, he is commanded to attend the traveller, and the amount of his compensation fixed at the time. The penalty for disobedience is imprisonment, which, however, is seldom incurred. We were upon the road at an early hour, but had not proceeded far before we experienced " a norther" of rain and wind — a kind of tempest peculiar to these regions, and exceedingly annoying. We stopped at an Indian's hut for sheker ; but the dilapidated state of the walls offered so insufficient a protection from the elements, that I soon concluded to make headway under their fury, and to endeavor to reach the town of Kaua, where we expected to find a good retreat. The ride over the slippery rocks was slow and haz- ardous, but at three o'clock we reached the long looked-for place, w^here we had pictured to ourselves so much happiness in the change of clothes and com- fortable lodgings. How fallacious, sometimes, are our brightest anticipations ! On arriving at the Casa- THE CURATE OF KAUA. 103 real, (the traveller's first hope,) every thing was found to be comfortless and forbidding. Our clothes were drenched, and the storm continued unabated. The curate was the next resort; he lived close by. So, dripping with the rain, and trembling with cold, we went to his house, and gave such a shivering knock, that it might have denoted our pitiable condi- tion without the necessity of words to explain it. After some delay, a short, thick-set, gray-headed old man came to the door, inquiring, rather gruffly, what was wanted ? A single glance might have told him ; but we, however, verbally stated our situation, and requested his advice. All we could obtain from him in answer was, " Nadie, Nadie !" — witli such an em- phatic and significant shrug, that I was sure he had practised it all his life. I left as I had entered, rather coolly. Slightly scanning his room, however, I ob- served, in a corner, a table covered with broken pieces of cups, the floor filled with old chairs, books, &c., and dirt in abundance. I had little difficulty in believing the grapes were sour. I pocketed my un- gracious reception as well as might be, and returned through the streets to the Casa-real, partly to see of what sort of people this pioits churl, to whom I was a stranger, and who took me not in, ^vas the Coryphe- us, and partly to get an idea of the topography of the place. I found my home had nuich improved by my absence. I was now in a state of mind to look at it with far greater satisfaction than when I left it. We built a huge fire upon the floor, warmed ourselves, and dried our clothes ; and over our supper, that we had 104 A SCENE — ROUTE — APPROACH TO CKI-CHEN. just bought of the Indians, decided, that it was better to submit to the evils that we ah'eady had, than " to fly to others that we knew not of." Only one wdiite man was seen in the place, and it is questionable whether he were so all the way through. He was the curate, of whose tender mer- cies I had received so refreshing a specimen. In my walk, I witnessed a scene which was calcu- lated to excite both pity and disgust. In front of the church were collected some forty or fifty drunken Indians, with the log drum and other uncouth instru- ments, including their voices, making up with dis- cordant and hideous noises a celebration of the last day of the masquerade. One of the prime actors in this revel eventually became so affected by the liquor he had drunk, that he became decidedly mad — stri- king about him and raving furiously. His compan- ions were obliged to secure him by ropes, and have him carried to his hut. By eight o'clock on the following day, I was mounted and on the route. The roads were some- what more passable, though the same rocky surface, with occasional rises, was encountered. I observed one sugar-plantation on my way ; the cane, which was then nearly ready to be cut, looked very well. As I approached Chi-Ghen, and while not more than four or five miles distant, I observed the road- side was strewn with columns, large hewn stones, &c., overgrown with bushes and long grass. On our arrival, at noon, we were most cordially received by the major-domo at the hacienda : the horses were ARRIVAL AT CHI-CHEN. 105 taken into good keeping, and I was conducted to quarters which had been prepared in anticipation of my coming. These were in the church near by, in that part which is known to us as the vestry-room ; and a very comfortable room I found too for my purposes. This church stands upon a rise of land that over- looks the country for a considerable distance around, embracing the hacienda, and, probably, the most re- markable ruins the world has ever known. I found the major-domo as unremitting in his attentions as if he had been made for me expressly. The eighty Indians attached to the hacienda, the house and all its contents, as he assured me, were mine. I ought to be comfortable and happy. This, and the surrounding attractions, offered every facility for repose. There never could be found a more delightful place for dream- ing life away in a state of irresponsible vegetation than the one now presented to me. The climate — the example and behavior of Nature about me — al- most tempted me to abandon myself to the enchant- ment of its charming indolence. I cast my travelling equipments aside, and, delight- ed with the attentions showered upon me, and which I am happy to say were the harbingers of an unre- mitting series from my host, I proceeded to the house for breakfast. Entering through a well-formed arch, built of stone, smooth plastered, I passed into a large cattle-yard, which was divided into three parts by stone walls, (in this manner the whole premises were enclosed,) and ascended a small flight of steps that 106 THE HACIENDA. were carried over a long and well-cemented water- ing-trough for the accommodation of cattle, which extended the whole length of the front. On reach- ing the corridor, the walls and floor presented to me a singular appearance. Here was an odd and start- ling figure — the god, perhaps, of a forgotten people ; and there a beautiful rosette : and even beneath my feet were pieces of carved stone and hieroglyphics that seemed as though they were striving to make me understand the story of their wonderful beginning. Within reach of the eye were to be seen the frag- ments and ornaments of pillars that once, possibly, embellished the palace of a proud cacique, stuck into the rude wall of the poor Indian's hut ! Lost in meditation, I was soliloquizing to myself upon the transitory nature of all human greatness, when I was suddenly aroused by stumbling over a huge — heap of beans ! This brought me back at once to the world of reality, and to my welcome breakfast. This meal was served upon a clean stool ; and, seated in a hammock, I made a hearty repast. My house was one-story, built of stone from the ru- ms in the vicinity, with spacious corridors in front and rear. It had but four rooms, which served for an eat- ing and sleeping room, granary, &c. At the side of the building was a deep well, to which the Indians and cattle look for their drink. The water is drawn up by means of buckets, attached by twigs to a plaited strap of the same material, passed around a cylinder, which is turned by a mule. In the revolutions, the buckets are emptied into reservoirs; ^^(i th'^'^re the water is ' DESCRIPTION OF QUARTERS. 107 led off by conductors to the different places where it is required. A few vegetables were growing about the premises ; but little or no cultivation was per- ceptible. Fruits of the tropics, here, as elsewhere in this province, grow in abundance. I proceeded to the ruins almost immediately after my arrival ; but their description must be reserved for another chapter. The favorable anticipations respecting the com- forts of my quarters were fully confirmed. Though the furnishing was somewhat unique, still I found myself comfortably domiciliated. A huge stone altar stood at one extremity of the room, upon which rested a cross, with curiously painted devices of sculls, boxes, ladders, knives, cocks, temples, flags, &c., the whole capped with the expressive initials of INRI. On either side stood small boxes, containing dolls, repre- senting saints, &c. In the corner of the room were sundry pieces of carved wood, exhibiting the figure of our Saviour crucified. The sides were filled up with tables and platforms, to carry the saints on, in the processions. Numerous wooden candlesticks were scattered abotit, hither and yond, intermingled with hammocks, riding equipments, &c. CHAPTER VI. A visit to the Ruins — Reflections — Indian Visiters — Detail of the Ruins of Chi-Chen — The Temple — The Pyramid — The Dome — The House of the Caciques — General Ruins — Mounds — Foun- dations — Characteristics of the Ruins — Materials and Manner of Building — The finish — Fresco paintings. It was on the morning of the 10th of February that I directed my steps, for the first time, toward the ruins of the ancient city of Chi-Chen.* On ar- riving in the immediate neighborhood, I w^as com- pelled to cut my way through an ahnost impermea- ble thicket of under-brush, interlaced and bound together with strong tendrils and vines ; in which labor I was assisted by my diligent aid and compan- ion, Jose. I was finally enabled to effect a passage ; and, in the course of a few hours, found myself in the presence of the ruins which I sought. For five days did I wander up and down among these crum- bling monuments of a city wiiich, I hazard little in saying, must have been one of the largest the world has ever seen. I beheld before me, for a circuit of many miles in diameter, the walls of palaces and * Chi-Chen signifies, Mouth of a Well. " Itza," said to be the Maya name for one of the old possessors of these ruins, is sometimes added by the natives. REFLECTIONS — IMPRESSIONS. 109 temples and pyramids, more or less dilapidated. The earth was strewed, as far as the eye could distinguish, with columns, some broken and some nearly perfect, which seemed to have been planted there by the ge- nius of desolation which presided over this awful solitude. Amid these solemn memorials of departed generations, who have died and left no marks but these, there were no indications of animated exist- ence save from the bats, the lizards, and the reptiles w^hicli now and then emerged from the crevices of the tottering walls and crumbling stones that w^ere strewed upon the ground at their base. No marks of human footsteps, no signs of previous visiters, were discernible ; nor is there good reason to believe that any person, whose testimony of the fact has been given to the w^orld, had ever before broken the silence which reigns over these sacred tombs of a departed civilization. As I looked about me and in- dulged in these reflections, I felt awed into perfect silence. To speak then, had been profane. A reve- lation from heaven could not have impressed me more profoundly with the solemnity of its communication, than I was now impressed on finding myself the first, probably, of the present generation of civilized men walking the streets of this once mighty city, and amid " Those temples, palaces, and piles stupendous, Of which the very ruins are tremendous." For a long time I was so distracted with the multi- tude of objects which crowded upon my mind, that I could take no note of them in detail. It was not 110 VISIT OF THE INDIANS. until some hours had elapsed, that my curiosity was sufficiently under control to enable me to examine them with any minuteness. The Indians for many leagues around, hearing of my arrival, came to visit me daily ; but the object of my toil was quite beyond their comprehension. They watched my every mo- tion, occasionally looking up to each other with an air of unfeigned astonishment ; but whether to gather an explanation from the faces of their neighbors, or to express their contempt for my proceedings, I have per- mitted myself to remain in doubt up to this day. Of the builders or occupants of these edifices which were in ruins about them, they had not the slightest idea ; nor did the question seem to have ever occurred to them before. After the most careful search, I could discover no traditions, no superstitions, nor legends of any kind. Time and foreign oppression had pa- ralyzed, among this unfortunate people, those organs which have been ordained by the God of nations to transfer history into tradition. All communication with the past here seems to have been cut off. Nor did any allusion to their ancestry, or to the former occupants of these mighty palaces and monumental temples, produce the slightest thrill through the mem- ories of even the oldest Indians in the vicinity. De- feated in my anticipations from this quarter, I ad- dressed myself at once to the only course of proce- dure which was likely to give me any solution of the solemn mystery. I determined to devote myself to a careful examination of these ruins in detail. THE TEMPLE. Ill DESCRIPTION OF THE RUINS OF CHI-CHEN. My first study was made at the ruins of the Tem- ple.* These remains consist, as will be seen hy reference to the engraving, of four distinct walls. I entered at an opening in the western angle, which I conceived to be the main entrance ; and presumed, from the broken walls, ceilings, and pillars still stand- ing, that the opposite end had been the location of the shrine or altar. The distance between these two ex- tremes is four hundred and fifty feet. The walls stand upon an elevated foundation of about sixteen feet. Of the entrance, or western end, about one-half remains ; the interior showing broken rooms, and ceilings not entirely defaced. The exterior is composed of large stones, beautifully hewn, and laid in fillet and mould- ing work. The opposite, or altar end, consists of similar walls, but has two sculptured pillars, much defaced by the falling ruins — six feet only remaining in view above them. These pillars measure about two feet in diameter. The walls are sur- rounded with masses of sculptured and hewn stone, broken columns, and ornaments, which had fallen from the walls themselves, and which are cov- ered with a rank and luxuriant vege- tation, and even with trees, through which I was obliged to cut my way with my Indian knife. In the rear Indian knife and sheath. * The names by which I have designated these ruins, are such as were suggested to me by their peculiar construction, and the purposes for which I supposed them to have been designed. 112 THE TEMPLE. of the pillars are the remains of a room, the back ceilings only existing; sufficient, however, to show that they were of rare workmanship. The southern, or right-hand wall, as you enter, is in the best state of preservation, the highest part of which, yet standing, is about fifty feet ; where, also, the remains of rooms are still to be seen. The other parts, on either side, are about twenty-six feet high, two hundred and fifty long, and sixteen thick; and about one hundred and thirty apart. The interior, or inner surface of these walls, is quite perfect, finely j\ ,£^A^ finished with smooth stone, cut uni- formly in squares of about two feet. About the centre of these walls, on both sides, near the top, are placed stone rings, carved from an im- mense block, and inserted in the wall by a long shaft, and projecting from it about four feet. They measure about four feet in diame- ter, and two in thickness — the sides beautifully carved. The extreme ends of the side-walls are about equi- distant from those of the shrine and entrance. The space intervening is filled up with stones and rubbish of walls, showing a connexion in the form of a curve. In the space formed by these walls are piles of stones, evidently being a part of them ; but there were not enough of them, however, to carry out the supposition that this vast temple had ever been enclosed. At the outer base of the southern wall are the remains of a room ; one side of which, with the angular ceil- THE TEMPLE. 113 ing, is quite perfect ; measuring fourteen feet long and six wide The parts remaining are finished with sculptured blocks of stone of about one foot square, representing Indian figures with feather head-dresses, armed with bows and arrows, their noses ornamented with rings ; carrying in one hand bows and arrows, and in the other a musical instrument similar to those that are now used by the Indians of the country. These figures were interspersed with animals resem- bling the crocodile. Near this room I found a square pillar, only five feet of which remained above the ru- ins. It was carved on all sides wdth Indian figures, as large as life, and apparently in warlike attitudes. Fragments of a similar kind were scattered about in the vicinity. From this room, or base, I passed round, and as- cended over vast piles of the crumbling ruins, pulling myself up by the branches pf trees, with which they are covered, to the top of the wall ; where I found a door-way, filled up w^ith stones and rubbish, which I removed, and, after much labor, efifected an entrance into a room measuring eight by twenty-four feet ; the ceiling of which was of the acute-angled arch, and perfected by layers of flat stones. The walls were finely finished with square blocks of stone, which had been richly ornamented. Even yet the heads of In- dians, with shields and lances, could be distinguish- ed in the coloring. The square pillars of the door-way are carved with Indians, flowers, borders, and spear-heads ; all of which I judged to have once been colored. The lin- 114 THE TEMPLE. tel, winch supported the top, is of the zuporte* wood, beautifully carved, and in good preservation. One of the Indian head-dresses was composed of a cap and flowers. Immediately in front of the door-way is a portion of a column, to w hich neither cap nor base was at- tached. It measured about three feet in diameter, with its whole surface sculptured ; but it was so ob- literated by time, that the lines could not be traced. Four feet of its length only could be discovered. It was, evidently, imbedded in the ruins to a great depth. Numerous blocks of square hewn stones, and others, variously and beautifully carved, were lying in con- fusion near this column. Of the exterior of these walls, a sufficient portion still exists to show the fine and elaborate workman- ship of the cornices and entablatures, though the lat- ter are much broken and defaced. They are com- posed of immense blocks of stone, laid with the greatest regularity and precision, the facades of which are interspersed with flowers, borders, and animals. From this portion of the ruins I cut my way, through a dense mass of trees and vegetation, to the eastern extremity of the walls, the top of which was much dilapidated, and obstructed with occasional piles of broken and hewn stone. On my return, I * I found the v.rood of the zuporte-tree had been used exclusively in these buildings for lintels and thwart-beams, but for no other purpose. Upon several of the beams yet remaining, there were elaborate caiT- mgs. This wood is well knoAva in this country for its remarkable du- rability and solidity. t,'v^^// THE PYRAMID. 115 descended io, and walked along the outside base of the wall to the rear of the shrine, and over immense blocks of hewn and carved stone, some of which were, no doubt, the hutments of altar walls; as similar blocks were near here appropriated to such pur- poses. I returned by the outside of the northern wall. The whole distance was filled up with heaps of ru- ins, overgrown with trees and vines ; through which I cleared my way with the greatest difficulty. From the temple I proceeded to The Pyramid, a few rods to the south. It was a majestic pile ; meas- uring at its base about five hundred and fifty feet, with its sides facing the cardinal points. The angles and sides were beautifully laid with stones of an immense size, gradually lessening, as the work approached the summit or platform. On the east and north sides are flights of small stone steps, thirty feet wide at the base, and narrowing as they ascend. Those of the south and west are carried up by gradations resembling steps, each about four feet in height, but are more dilapidated than those upon which the steps are constructed. The bases were piled up with ruins, and over- grown with a rank grass and vines ; and it was only after great labor that I was enabled to reach the side facing the east. Here I found two square stones of an enormous size, partly buried in the ruins, which 1 cleared away. They were plainly carved, repre- senting some monster with wide extended jaws, with rows of teeth and a protruding tongue. These stones, 116 THE PYRAMID. from their position, were evidentlj the finish to the base of the steps. On this side I ascended the fallen and broken steps, through bushes and trees, with which they were partly covered to the summit, one hundred feet. Here I found a terrace or platform, in the centre of which is a square building, one hundred and seventy feet at its base, and twenty feet high. The eastern side of this supplementary structure contains a room twelve by eighteen feet, having two square pillars eight feet high, supporting an angular roof upon strong beams of zuporte wood, the stone and wood being both carved. The sides of the door-ways, and their lintels, are of the same material, and ornamented in the same style. Fronting this room is a corridor supported by two round pillars, three feet in diame- ter and four in height, standing upon a stone base of two feet; both of which are surmounted with large capitals, hewn or broken in such a manner that no architectural design can now be traced. The sides of these pillars were wrought with figures and fines, which are now quite obliterated. The door-sides of these rooms are built of large square stones, similar to those of the Temple, with the difference of having holes drilled through the inner angles, which were worn smooth, and apparently enlarged by use. The other sides contain rooms and halls in tolerable pre- servation, having the same form of roofs supported by zuporte wood. These rooms and halls are plas- tered with a superior finish, and shadowy painted fig- ures are still perceptible. The exterior of the build- r&^^ * •^ ~ THE PYRAMID. 117 ing had been built of fine hewn and uniform blocks of stone, with entablatures of a superior order, and projecting cornices. I could find no access to the top but by the pillars, and by cutting steps in the stone and mortar of the broken edge of the facade, by which, and the aid of bushes, I reached the summit. I found it perfectly level, and one of its corners broken and tumbling down. The whole was covered with a deep soil, in which trees and grass were growing in profusion. From this height 1 enjoyed a magnificent coup-d'ceil of all the ruins, and the vast plain around them. I planted a staff upon the summit, with a flag attached, to float upon the breeze, and after much re- flection and speculation, with which I do not intend to trouble my readers, I made my way down again, as surveyors say, " to the place of beginning," at a much more rapid rate than I ascended. Unlike most similar structures in Egypt, whose " primeval race had run ere antiquity had begun," this pyramid does not culminate at the top, as I have al- ready observed. Pococke has described one, how- ever, at Sak-hara, similar to this, which is the only one of which I have ever heard. The solidity of the structure of the pyramid at Chi-Chen, the har- mony and grandeiu- of its architecture, must impress every one with an exalted idea of the mechanical skill, and the numbers of those by whom it was origi- nally constructed, and hke its elder (?) brethren in Egypt, so long as it stands, it must remain a monu- mental protest of an oppressed people against the ill- 118 THE DOME. directed ambition and tyranny of those rulers at whose command it was built. About the centre of the ruins of the city is the DOME, to which I made my way as usual, through thick masses of tangled vegetation, by which it was surrounded. This building stood upon a double foun- dation, as far as I could judge, though I was unable to satisfy myself completely, owing to the fallen ru- ins which once formed a part of its structure, but which now almost concealed its base from the view. I found on the east side broken steps, by which I ascended to a platform built about thirty feet from the base, the sides of which measured each about one hundred and tvv'enty-five feet. The walls were con- structed of fine hewn stone, beautifully finished at the top, and the angles, parts of which had fallen, were tastefully curved. In the centre of this platform, or terrace, was a foundation work, twelve feet high, and in ruins ; the four broken sides measuring about fifty feet each, upon which is built a square, of a pyramidical form, fifty feet high, divided off into rooms, but inaccessi- ble, or nearly so, owing to the tottering condition of the walls. I could discover, however, that the inside walls were colored, and the wood that supported and connected the ceilings was in good preservation. In the centre of this square is the Dome, a structure of beautiful proportions, though partially in ruins. It rests upon a finished foundation, the interior of which contains three conic structures, one within the other, a space of six feet intervening ; each cone com- THE HOUSE OF THE CACIQUES. 119 municating with the others by door-ways, the inner one forming the shaft. At the height of about ten feet, the cones are united by means of transoms of zuporte. Around these cones are evidences of spi- ral stairs, leading to the summit. There is a plan and description published of a " Greenan Temple," which bears an analogy to this structure. It was erected upon a spot which, in for- mer days, was consecrated to the worship of the sun. The name Greenan signifies the place of the sun. This singular edifice is found in the county of Done- gal, which rises from the southern shore of Lough Swilly, Ireland, and is represented to be a most love- ly place.* Situated about three rods south-west of the ruins of the Dome, are those of the House of the Ca- ciques. I cut my way through the thick growth of small wood to this sublime pile, and by the aid of my compass was enabled to reach the east front of the building. Here I felled the trees that hid it, and the whole front was opened to my view, presenting the most strange and incomprehensible pile of architec- ture that my eyes ever beheld — elaborate, elegant, stu- pendous, yet belonging to no order now known to us. The front of this wonderful edifice measures thirty- two feet, and its height twenty, extending to the main building fifty feet. Over the door-way, which favors the Egyptian style of architecture, is a heavy lintel of stone, containing two double rows of hieroglyphics, * DubliQ Penny Journal for 1834 and 1835, pages 349, 350. 120 THE HOUSE OF THE CACIQUES. with a sculptured ornament intervening. Above these are the remains of hooks carved in stone, with raised hnes of drapery running through them ; which, appa- rently, have been broken off by the falling of the heavy finishing from the top of the building ; over which, surrounded by a variety of chaste and beautifully exe- cuted borders, encircled within a wreath, is a female figure in a sitting posture, in basso-relievo, having a head-dress of feathers, cords, »and tassels, and the neck ornamented. The angles of this building are tastefully curved. The ornaments continue around the sides, which are divided into two compartments, different in their arrangement, though not in style. Attached to the angles are large projecting hooks, skilfully worked, and perfect rosettes and stars, with spears reversed, are put together with the utmost pre- cision. The ornaments are composed of small square blocks of stone, cut to the depth of about one to one and a half inches, apparently with the most delicate instruments, and inserted by a shaft in the wall. The wall is made of large and uniformly square blocks of limestone, set in a mortar which appears to be as durable as the stone itself. In the ornamen- tal borders of this building I could discover but little analogy with those known to me. The most strik- ing were those of the cornice and entablature, che- vron and the cable moulding, which are characteristic of the Norman architecture. The sides have three door-ways, each opening in- to small apartments, which are finished with smooth -/- ?i i* ^i. ^ ■&I t f<*> -,, ^"^ t~-t i,^ cc THE HOUSE OF THE CACIQUES. 121 square blocks of stone ; the floors of the same mate- rial, but have been covered with cement, which is now broken. The apartments are small, owing to the massive walls enclosing them, and the acute-an- gled arch, forming the ceiHng. The working and laying of the stone are as perfect as they could have been under the directions of a modern architect. Contiguous to this front are two irregular build- ings, as represented in the plan. The one on the right, situated some twenty-five feet from it, (about two feet off the right line,) has a front of about thir- ty-five feet, its sides ten wide, and its height twenty feet, containing one room similar in its finish to those before described. The front of this building is elabo- rately sculptured with rosettes and borders, and orna- mental lines; the rear is formed of finely cut stone, now much broken. Near by are numerous heaps of hewn and broken stones, sculptured work and pillars. . The other building on the left, is about eight feet from the principal front, measuring twenty-two feet in length, thirteen in width, and thirty-six in height. The top is quite broken, and has the appearance of having been much higher. The agave Americana was growing thriftily upon its lev- el roof. On all sides of this build- ing are carved figures, broken images, in sitting postures ; ro- settes and ornamental borders, laid off in compartments ; each com- partment having three carved hooks on each side and angle. This building con- 122 THE HOUSE 07 THE CACIQUES. tains but one room, similar to that on the right. A soil has collected on the tops or roofs of these struc- tures to the depth of three or four feet, in which trees and other vegetation are flourishing. From these portions of the ruins I worked my way through the wild thicket, by which they are sur- rounded, to the north side of the main building, in the centre of which I found a flight of small stone steps, overgrown with bushes and vines, which I cut away, and made an ascent by pulling myself up to the summit, a distance of forty feet. This platform is an oblong square, one hundred by seventy-five feet. Here a range of rooms were found, occupying about two-thirds of the area ; the residue of the space probably formed a promenade, which is now filled up with crumbling ruins, covered with trees and grass. These rooms varied in size ; the smallest of which measured six by ten, and the largest six by twenty-two feet. The most of these rooms were plastered, or cov- ered with a fine white cement, some of which was still quite perfect. By washing them, I discovered fresco paintings ; but they were much obliterated. The subjects could not be distinguished. On the eastern end of these rooms is a hall running trans- versely, four feet wide, (having the high angular ceil- ing,) one side of which is filled with a variety of sculptured work, principally rosettes and borders, with rows of small pilasters; having three square recesses, and a small room on either side. Over the doorways of each are stone lintels three feet square, GENERAL RUINS. 123 carved with hieroglyphics both on the front and un- der side. Tlie western end of these rooms is in ahnost total ruins. The northern side has a flight of stone steps, but much dilapidated, leading to the top ; which, probably, was a look-out place, but is now almost in total ruins. The southern range of rooms is much broken ; the outside of which yet shows the elaborate work with which the whole building was finished. I vainly endeavored to find access to the interior of the main building. I discovered two breaches, caused, probably, by the enormous weight of the pile, and in these apertures I made excavations ; but could not discover any thing like apartments of any de- scription. It seemed to be one vast body of stone and mortar, kept together by the great solidity of the outer wall, which was built in a masterly manner, of well-formed materials. The angles were finished off with circular blocks of stones, of a large and uniform size. In a northwest direction from the hacienda, of which mention has already been made, are the ruins of a house which, owing, probably, to its having been constructed without any artificial foundation, is still in good preservation. It bears but httle resemblance to any of its fellows. It contains eighteen rooms, the largest of which measures eight by twenty-four feet, arranged in double rows, or ante-rooms, and lighted only by a single doorway. They all have the high angular ceilings, like the other build- ings, which enclose as much space as the rooms 124 GENERAL RUINS. themselves. Those fronting the south are the most remarkable, the inner doorways having each a stone lintel of an unusually large size, measuring thirty- two inches wide, forty-eight long, and twelve deep ; having on its inner side a sculptured figure of an In- dian in full dress, with cap and feathers, sitting upon a cushioned seat, finely worked ; having before him a vase containing flowers, with his right hand ex- tended over it, his left resting upon the side of the cushion — the whole bordered with hieroglyphics. The front part of this lintel contains two rows of hieroglyphics. The building is irregular, having a projection in the centre, on one side, of eight feet; on the other, of four feet. It measures one hundred and fifty feet long, forty-three wide, and twenty high ; flat roof, unbroken, and filled with trees and grass to the whole extent. The outside and partition walls have a uni- form thickness of three feet. Among other ruins contiguous to those already de- scribed, I discovered two detached piles about two rods apart. They were erected upon foundations of about twenty feet in height, which were surround- ed and sustained by well-cemented walls of hewn stone, with curved angles, measuring two hundred and forty feet around them, parts of which were in good preservation. We ascended to the platform of the one in the best condition, in the centre of which stands the ruins of a building measuring twen- ty-one by forty feet ; the west front being quite per- fect, and shows sculptured work along the whole GENERAL RUINS. 125 extent of its facade. The only accessible part was a hall, having a range of hieroglyphics the whole length over the doorways, the rooms of which were in total ruins. Across these halls were beams of wood, creased as if they had been worn by ham- mock-ropes. In a line with these ruins and the temple are nu- merous mounds, covered with loose stones and vege- tation. Between these and the temple are the ruins of a mass of foundation-work, about forty feet high ; the top of which is covered with piles of crumbhng stones, and ruins of a structure that once adorned it. These stones were of an immense size, some square, some round ; and the others either plain, hewn, or sculptured. Among these there are two even larger than the rest, and similar to those found at the base of the Pyramid. Likewise, among these ruins I found pillars, beautifully worked with figures and or- namental lines ; some of which are standing, appa- rently, in their original position. Also, upright blocks, six feet high and two thick, of each of which one surface was covered with hieroglyphics. Near by were six square fragments of pillars, at uniform dis- tances apart from each other. These, too, were sculptured with ornaments and hieroglyphics. No- thing could be seen of these ruins from the base of the structure, as they were buried among trees, and overgrown with long grass and shrubs. Besides those we have attempted to describe, there are other ruins of which some remains of walls are standing ; and contiguous thereto lie immense piles 126 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE RUINS. of worked stone, which, though presenting no new feature in the architecture of these buildings, yet serve to give a more adequate idea of the size and grandeur of this great city. In my walks in the vi- cinity, extending miles in every direction, I have seen broken walls and mounds, fragments of columns, and carved and sculptured stone, some of which were of as extraordinary dimensions as any that I have no- ticed, deeply imbedded in the soil, and wholly dis- connected with any other structure ; though they were, without doubt, the remains of splendid and extensive edifices. The follov/ing general characteristics of all these ruins may not be thought impertinent to my subject, by those who have had the curiosity to follow me thus far in the details : — They are situated upon a plain of many miles in circumference, nearly in the centre of the province; upwards of one hundred miles from the sea, and away from all water communication. They have no apparent order, or laying-out of streets, as the plan shows ; but that they bear evidence of a people highly skilled in the mechanical arts, as also in a portion of the sciences, must be conclusive to my readers. The buildings which are now in the most perfect state of preservation, are the temple, castle, pyramid, and other erections, upon a succession of terraces composed of ruhhle, imbedded in mortar, held to- gether by finished walls of fine concrete limestone ; the sides of which are invariably located with refer- CHARACTERISTICS OF THE RUINS. 127 ence to the four cardinal points, and the principal fronts facing the east. The walls of the buildings rise perpendicularly, generally, to one-half the height, where there are entablatures; above which, to the cornice, the fa- cades are laid off in compartments, which are elabo- rately ornamented with stone sculpture-work over a diamond lattice ground, illustrated with hieroglyph- ic figures of various kinds ; the whole interspersed with chaste and unique borders, executed with the greatest possible skill and precision. The stones are cut m jyarallelopjpeds of about twelve inches in length and six in breadth ; the interstices filled up of the same material of which the terraces are composed. The height of these buildings generally is twen- ty, and rarely above twenty-five feet. They are lim- ited to one story, long and narrow, without windows. The rooms are confined to a double range, receiving no other light than what passes through the door- way. The ceilings are built in the form of an acute- angled arch by layers of flat stones, the edges being bevelled and carried up to the apex, upon which rests a stone that serves as a key. The interior of some of the most important of these rooms is finished with a beautiful white com- position, laid on with the greatest skill. Fresco painting in these rooms is also observable, and the colors still in good preservation ; sky blue and light green being the most prominent. Figures of Indian characters can be discerned, but not with sufficient dis- tinctness for the subject to be traced. The floors are 128 AGAVE AMERICANA. covered with a hard composition, which shows marks of wear. The doorways are nearly a square of about seven feet, somewhat resembUng the Egyptian ; the sides of which are formed of large blocks of hewn stone. In some instances the lintels are of the same material, with hieroglyphics and hnes carved upon the outer surfaces. Stone rings, and holes at the sides of the doorways, indicate that doors once swung upon them. AGAVE AiVIERICANA. CHAPTER VII. An Arrival — Unexpected Honors — Usurpation of Office — Prices of Labor — Indian way of Living — A Sonato — An Incident — Depart- ure — Yacaba — Sonato at Tabi — Arrival at Sotuta — "Las Rmnas" — A Benediction — Cantamayec — Turn Physician — Successful Prac- tice — The Reward of Merit — Route to Teabo — Its Curate — Mani — Arrival at Ticul — Description of Ticul — The Church — Curate — Market-place — Pretty Women — Convent — Occupations — Health — Roads — Sugar Estates — Ruins of Ichmul — Departure — Cross the Cordilleras. During my stay in the vicinity of Clii-Chen, the family of the major-domo were expected to arrive from Valladohd, Accordingly, great preparations were made to receive them. Arches were thrown over the doors, around the corridors of the house, and erected across the road near by. The Indians made ready, with their drums and fifes, and with other forms of congratulation, to hail the approach- ing visiters. At sun-down on Saturday evening the " coaches," so well described by Mr. Stephens in his travels in Yucatan, were seen coming along the road. The nmsic commenced ; the bell of our little habi- tation lifted up its noisy tones of gladness, and all was in commotion. They were soon at the door, and carefully set down by the Indian bearers ; and the contents of the carriafje, composed of women 9 130 UNEXPECTED HONORS. and children, crawled out upon their hands and knees and hurried into the house. The " coaches" were now put aside, and preparations made to have a joy- ful evening. In the morning (Sunday) we learned that the Indians not only had an evening, as we supposed they would have, but a whole night of dancing and singing. At daylight they awakened me by coming into my quarters, for the purpose of going to matins. The bell was ringing, the candles were lighted, the httle boxes opened, and the altar kissed. It was the w^ork of a few minutes, when the bell ceased, the candles were extinguished, the little doors closed; and, by the time the last pattering of the sandal-foot- ed Indian sounded upon the stone floor as he left the house, I was once more asleep. This morning, at the usual breakfast hour, I left the "vestry" for the house. On the w^ay thither I was met by the major-domo, who, I observed, was very polite indeed — unusually so. He took my hand and led me into the dwelling, where the best ham- mock was opened for my reception. I sat down and took a swing. Presentlv the ladv of the mansion, who had arrived " by coach" the previous evening, made her appearance, dropping me one of her sweet- est courtesies, and passed out at another door. The children all followed in slow procession, giving me a similar salutation ; until, eventually, I was left alone in silent astonishment. During this ceremony the Indians were peeping in at the doors, apparently awaiting their turn; and, sure enough, it came. They approached in single file, to the number of USURPATION OF OFFICE. 131 some thirty, and, as tliej marched past, partially knelt, and made all sorts of obeisances ; which were acknowledged with as much form as my inexpe- rienced greatness conid command. I was lost in amazement. I began to survey the room in search of a mirror, to see what change had taken place in my person ; and the fact stared me in the face. It was my black suit, that I had put on in the morning, (not being on fatigue duty to-day,) that had given this first impression of my importance — having, here- tofore, only appeared in my working guise before them. In my future rambles, I shall benefit by my experience in this little affair ; and would recommend it to the careful consideration of all who may here- after travel in these parts. After breakfast I stepped aside, and examined the coat more particularly, to ascertain how long its newly discovered virtues might be expected to abide with it. I was delighted to find that it would probably supply me with all the dig- nity I should require during my residence in the country. This (Sunday) has been a lovely day, so far as nature was concerned. Nothing but the continua- tion of the dancing and the wild music, interrupted at times by the revelry of drunken Indians, could be heard, except the services at the church by the same actors ! At vespers, the principal officiate was so drunk that he dropped the incense-cup, and broke it all to pieces. Unfortunately for his dignity, it fell upon my foot ; whereat I was so vexed, that I trun- dled the old reprobate most unceremoniously out of 132 PRICES OF LABOR. the sanctuary, and performed the ceremonies myself, as well as I knew how, and dismissed the congrega- tion. If the pope has any gratitude he will send me a cardinal's hat, at least, for this interference. There are about eighty Indians attached to this estate. Their wages is one dollar per month and a sack of corn, which contains about two bushels, worth here from thirty-seven and a half to lifty cents per sack ; but the amount of wages varies in different parts of the country. In some sections laborers are employed by the job — so much for cutting down wood, the work being measured out ; so much for planting an acre ; and in the same way for taking in the crops, &c., the prices of which are regulated by custom ; but they are all under as abject bondage at present as if they had been born slaves. Their wa- ges, low as they are — owing to the few wants of these people — more than cover their necessary expenses; hut the taxes, and the feasts of the church, absorb all the surplus. I have known an Indian to expend his month's pay, and all he was possessed of besides, in the purchase of candles and trinkets for a single festival day ; the former to burn before, and the lat- ter to decorate, his tutelar saint. They are permitted to build their huts on the lands of the estate v^athout cost. Among those I visited, the best were miserable enough ; consisting merely of poles driven perpendicularly into the ground, to support a thatched roof. Although plenty of soil is allowed them, they cultivate nothing for themselves THE SONATO. 133 Everything around tlieiii indicates indolence and squalid poverty. In my rambles in the neighborhood of tlie hacien- da, I discovered, at about the distance of a mile, a sonata, situated in a dell of the most romantic ap- pearance ; the sides, rising to the height of a hun- dred feet, are circular, and arc formed of broken and cragged rocks, overgrown with trees, bushes, and vines. The water is about ten fathoms deep, clear and good ; and always remains without fluctuation except once or twice a year, in seasons of heavy rains or extreme drought. There appears to be but one place at the margin where the water is accessi- ble. A part of a stone wall is here perceptible, and also steps beneath the surface. Less romantic places than this have made more than one chapter in the mythology of the ancient Greeks. While I was thinking tlrat this might be the scene where many a tender tale of love may have been whispered, a thousand years ago, by the simple swain and artless damsel who dwelt near its margin — that here the proud cacique may once have loitered with the lovely mistress of his affections — while I was meditating over the probability, the almost certainty of these things, something of a parallel nature was, in reality, transpiring in my immediate vicinity. My right-hand man, Jose, whose peculiar propensity has before been hinted at, was pouring out his heart to a beautiful Indian girl a few rods distant, and she was listening to his story of love with all the atten- tion that the most faithful passion could deserve. 134 AN INCIDENT — DEPARTURE FROM CHI-CHEN. They were not, however, permitted to dream them- selves into an undisturbed state of happiness. It is said that love is jealous as well as watchful. Thej had been observed by a rival, who suddenly breaking in upon their stolen moments, threatened total anni- hilation to all their blissful anticipations. Jose man- fully contended for his rights ; but, had I not come up at the critical instant, there is no telling to what extent the rupture might have been carried. My presence, however, soon allayed the excitement. It was not difficult to discern that Jose was the prefer- red one. I learned from him that the fair cause of his trouble was from the neighborhood of Merida, an old acquaintance ; and that pledges of love had long since been exchanged between them ; but circumstances had removed her from his vicinity, he knew not whither, until the present accidental meeting had again thrown them into each other's arms. Such being the case, I promised to intercede with the ma- jor-domo in their behalf, which I subsequently did, but without the entire success that I had anticipated. Having concluded my visit at Chi-Chen, and my curiosity being fully satisfied, I was ready at an early hour to continue my journey westward. The Indi- ans, to the number of fifty or sixty, had collected to witness our departure. They had been very civil to us during our stay ; and, to express our acknowledg- ments, I knew no better way than to make them a few presents, with which they appeared to be highly pleased. We took leave of our kind host and host- ess with regret They had taken great pains to make YACABA — CHARACTERISTIC. 135 my stay comfortable among them, and I shall always remember them with gratitude. By eight o'clock we were out of sight of castles and palaces, and buried in the thick woods of the country. Our route lay over a narrow stony path, through the small Indian town of Piste to Yacaba — a distance of about nine leagues ; where we arrived at two o'clock, rode up to the Casa-real, and dismounted in the square. The church occupied one side of it, and pubhc offices and dwellings the others. The square is spacious, and comprises nearly the whole town. Many of the houses are uninhabited and going to ruin. It had rained hea- vily during the morning, and the rooms of the Casa- real, as usual, did not present a very favorable aspect to the wet and fatigued traveller. However, we got our horses taken care of, and succeeded in obtaining a tolerable breakfast. By five o'clock the inhabitants began to leave their hammocks, and made their way to the Casa-real, knowing, apparently, by instinct, or some faculty peculiar to the inhabitants of small towns, that strangers had arrived. In this instance, we were glad to see them ; for we were sadly in want of a dry place to rest in. They offered to do every thing for us. We told them our wants, by showing them the rooms of the Casa-real. They promised to get others, appeared glad to serve us, and treated us with great politeness. Off they started, as we sup- posed, to fit us out for the night ; and that is the last we ever saw of them. This is mentioned merely to show a marked characteristic of the people. A stran- 136 TABI — SONATO. ger, with a sanguine temperament, in this province, must suffer ! We were obHged, as usual, to depend upon our- selves for quarters ; and, after much research, and dis- turbing the quiet of many poor old women in their hammocks, we found a store-house, in which we be- came somewhat comfortably accommodated for the night. Shortly after sunrise, on the following morn- ing, we continued our journey to Tabi, a distance of two leagues. At this place we spent an hour in vis- iting a sonato, one of the most celebrated in the coun- try. It had been the scene of some miracle, the par- ticulars of which we were unable to learn, and is therefore held in much reverence by the Indians. The circumference is about fifty feet, and it is about seventy to the surface of the water from the top of the ground. The water is said to be about a hundred feet deep, and has a subterraneous channel, the extent of which is unknown. A small chapel is erected upon its border. In the absence of all rivers in this country, these watering-places, or natural wells, seem to be one of the most striking gifts of God's beneficence. Near this chapel is a tree of the mam- mee species, peculiar to the province, of extraor- dinary dimensions, growing, apparently, out of a solid rock. This town is principally inhabited by Indians. The few whites here, as is usual in many other places, principally maintain themselves by selling small arti- cles, cotton cloth, and liquors to the Indians. Save a church, there were no public buildings in the place. SOTUTA — THE CURATE — "LAS RUINAS." 137 No cUiimatioii or purpose was to be seen among these listless Indians, who in that, as in other particulars, resembled all of their race whom I had yet seen. We continued our journey on to Sotuta, a distance of three leagues, where we arrived at eleven o'clock, over a good road, upon which the Indians were at that time engaged in working out their road-tax. This is a pleasant tow n, having a fine square, neat- ly laid out, with much regularity, and well built. While we were at breakfast, seated on a long wood- en bench (the usual table of the Casa-real) saddle- wise, with our customary company, ten to twenty In- dians squatted (after their manner) about us, we were waited upon by the curious of the place. They wish- ed to know who we were, and where we were going? To which we gave satisfactory answers. They offered us their best services, as usual, and left us. Soon after they left,- the curate called, and was so kind as to offer us his house, and all the appurte- nances thereto appertaining, of which, however, own- ing to our limited stay, I did not think it worth my while to accept. Knowing that I wished to see all that was interesting in his curacy, he, the dear soul, carried me a league, through a burning sun, to see what he called " las ruinas." I walked to them cheer- fully enough, for I anticipated something of an ex- citing nature. On reaching them, they proved to be merely the walls of a badly built house, which had pertained to a hacienda, and which w^as not over fif- ty years of age. When he first called my attention to them, I thought he was playing off a practical joke ; 138 BENEDICTION — CANTAMAYEC. but it was not so ; it was a sincere desire to please Short-sighted mortal ! his day-dreams had never been disturbed by a knowledge of the pyramids, palaces, and castles of Chi-Chen ! By a visit to the convent, however, on my return, I was fully indemnified for all my disappointment, by the good things which ap- pear always to concentrate in these places ; and I soon forgot our fatiguing walk to " las ruinas," by a swing in the hammock. While I was here enjoying myself, during the heat of the day, an Indian brought in a bundle, containing a shroud, intended for some deceased person. The curate apologized ; ordered his robes, in which he was soon enveloped ; had a candle lighted, to which was affixed a silver cross; gave it to me to hold; took his book, and read over a benediction, occa- sionally sprinkling water upon the cloth intended for the dead. This was done in an ofF-hand style, and the Indian was quickly dismissed. It was with some difficulty that I was enabled to tear myself away from my kind host ; and it was late before we started for Cantamayec, four leagues distant, where we intended to sleep. Before sun- down, however, we bade him adieu, and passing over a rocky path through the woods, we arrived at our stopping-place at nine o'clock. Little had we anticipated the cool reception we were doomed to meet, or we should have remained with our reverend friend of Sotuta. On reaching the Casa-real of this most miserable town, we found it occupied by half-breeds and Indians, making them- A DILEMMA. 139 selves merry and drunk, upon the occasion offered them by some one of the innumerable feast-days with which their calendar is crowded. The prospect for us, we observed on dismounting, was not very flatter- ing. We stated to them that we were travellers ; and wished a privilege with them at the Casa-real for the night, and at the same time offered them mo- ney, to remunerate them for their aid in procuring food for ourselves and horses ; but we could obtain nothing. Their reply was, that the Casa-real and its yards were full, and that there was no food or water to be had. This was bringing affairs to a crisis. The prospect was that we were to " hang out" during the night. Remonstrance was thought of; but expe- rience had long since taught me that remonstrance with these people was vain. A man in the crowd was observed with trousers on; and with him I thought something might be done, but I was made to perceive that trousers are only the uniform, but not an evidence of civilization. A squally night was be- fore me, and no prospect of a shelter. I thought of trying "the plenipo" — a la Stephens — but my star- red and striped blanket was in tatters, and I had no " half dollars." Sunken as I was in the abyss of trouble, my magical coat never occurred to me. At a complete loss what to do, we walked about the town, in anticipation of some favorable accident, fol- lowed by a concourse of idle Indians. We were about returning to our horses in despair, when, pass- ing a hut, with its only door half opened, we saw an old woman lying in her hammock, sick. I thought of 140 PHYSICIAN — SUCCESSFUL PRACTICE. the " medico." With this ray of hope to encourap-e me, I entered, blessing the house and its inmates, with the best Latin I could muster. A dim light was burning in a calabash, which stood in the corner. In the centre of the room were some half-extinguished embers, with the few cooking utensils which the cui- sine of this country require, being near them. A girl was engaged in making some cooling drink for the invalid ; and, upon the whole, I felt that my pros- pects were looking up. So I drew up a stool to the side of the hammock, and looked the " medico" at the invalid, to the best of my abilities. The Indi- ans from without were collecting around ; I talked. in a very deliberate tone, as if just bursting with a plethora of science, felt the pulse, and examined the tongue ! At this stage of proceedings, an Indian bent down to my ear, and asked, in a low voice, if he should 2:0 for food for our horses? I graciouslv consented. I showed my pocket compass, the near- est approach to a surgical instrument of any thing I had about me, made a few more learned remarks upon the pathogenetic and therapeutic properties of matter, and advised the patient to bathe her feet and hold her tongue. The fire upon the floor was rekindled ; eggs and tortillas were soon placed before us, and I venture to say, that no catechumen in medicine ever received his first professional fee with more delight, than I did mine on this occasion. The patient declared her- self to be much better. So was I. I soon began to feel myself " at home." Jose made ready our ham- SEARCH FOR TEABO. 141 mocks, drove the iiitrnding Indians out of the house, and, in a few moments, we buried all our cares and troubles in deep and undisturbed slumbers. Awaking early in the morning, I found the patient much improved, if I might be permitted to judge from her nasal achievements; and, thinking ii, would be a pity to disturb her, I determined not to wait for any farther fee, but directed Jose silently to fold our hammocks, and putting them under our arms, we left the premises, and made our way to where our horses were quartered. Every thing being ready, we were soon in the saddle, and, without much regret, left the town ; but not without a sincere wish that the pa- tient, whose comfort had been so unexpectedly iden- tified with mine, might rapidly recover. We were now on the road to Teabo, a distance of about seven leagues, where we arrived at two o'clock in the afternoon. . We experienced no little difficulty in finding the town, owing to the numerous paths that presented themselves leading to the haci- endas and ranchos in the vicinity, and owing to the town being almost buried among the small trees and bushes by which it was surrounded. Our confusion was ten times more confounded by the directions of the Indians ; and, finally, we were obliged to have recourse to the pocket-compass. This is an article with which every tourist in untravelled countries should provide himself. He will find it an invalu- able guide when he is alone; and it will prove as efficacious as one ghost, at least, in controlling the services of these superstitious people. 142 THE CURATE. The Casa-real being occupied by muleteers, I got permission of the poUte owner of a store near by to- deposite our trappings, and to make my toilet in one corner of his estabhshment. For this purpose a heap of corn was removed, which so facilitated my preparations, that I was soon in a condition to pay my respects to the town. After I had made some examination of it, however, I concluded that my time had been wasted. It was, like all the others, as dull and inanimate as the rocks upon which it stood. As I had always discovered, if there were any thing of interest in these places, it radiated from the curate, I bent my steps, in the evening, towards his house. He was a fatherly-looking old gentleman, received me very kindly, ordered the best room in the convent to be made ready for my reception, and a good sup- per to be prepared. He talked much of his curacy, and seemed to be devoted to the people, as they evi- dently were to him. Good order was observable about his house, which is rarely to be met with in the like places. He shovii'ed me his library, which was composed of about twenty volumes of Latin and Spanish books. After passing a very pleasant evening with this good old man, I bade him adieu and retired to my room, which was decorated, or fur- nished rather, on all sides, with the symbols of the church, such as crosses, sculls, images, &c. ; but which did not, so far as I could discover, materially affect my repose during the night. Early in the morning, after taking chocolate, which my kind host had provided, we were mounted and MANI — ARRIVAL AT TICUL. 143 on our way to Ticul. We passed through a num- ber of small towns, one of which was Mani, about three leagues from Teabo, and formerly the capital of the province. The only fact connected with the history of this place, of interest to the traveller, is one of a character kindred to that which has given an infamous immortality to the Calif Omar, and, in later davs, to Cardinal Ximenes ; a man who lived in an age, and professed a religion, which should have taught him better. This was the place, as I learned while at Merida, where the ancient history of the Maya people was destroyed, by order of a Franciscan monk named Landa. These books were thought by the inquisitor to contain some heretical matters; and, with a bigotry and stupidity which we can now hard- ly allude to in terms sufficiently moderate to be print- ed, he directed those books to be taken out and burnt in the public square. This history was written in hieroglyphical characters, and its destruction has doubtless deprived posterity of the key to the whole history of the Maya nation. We arrived at Ticul after a fatiguing ride, under a hot sun, at half past two o'clock in the afternoon, on Saturday, the 19th of February. Our coming was anticipated, and good apartments were prepared for us in the convent, where we were comfortably ac- commodated, and fully resolved to remain until we had become thoroughly recruited. Jose was about worn out, and the horses' feet were in a sad condi- tion. My trousers were torn, my boots were cut up, and my altogether ruinous condition was more in 144 RAMBLES IN TICUL. sympathy with the country which 1 was visiting, than accorded with my taste or my comfort. Tn this condition, I thought it would be no more than an act of prudence to lie by for a few days to repair dam- ages. 1 amused myself meantime in strolling about the town, which I found decidedly pleasant. It had a life and activity about it that I had not before seen for a long time. I saw the sun set this evening be- hind the Cordilleras ; it was a beautiful and imposing sight. This town is large and well built, though not very compact ; enough so, however, to make it a very de- sirable place of residence. It is town and country, beautifully intermingled. It has a fine open square, church, and market-place, and several stores. The church, occupying one corner of the square, is built in the form of a cross, and has a well-pro- portioned dome to set it off. The mass of devotees that assemble here daily are decently dressed and good-looking. The curate is a middle-aged man, who has read much, and figured considerably in the late political revolutions of the province ; and is, probably, more conversant with the history of his country than any man in it. Some of the most in- teresting ruins of the country are within his curacy, and he was the only person I encountered in the country who had devoted much time to an examina- tion of them. He received me very cordially, and was exceedingly kind and attentive during my stay. The market-place is small ; but it is well supplied, and kept clean. It was rather a strange sight to me PECULIARITIES OF TICUL. 145 to see cattle butchered in the open streets and pubHc thoroughfares of the town, as is the custom here. This town enjoys a notoriety for its pretty Mesti- zas, or half-breed Indian women ; which, as far as I am able to judge, it justly deserves. They are well formed, and have regular features and brunette com- plexions, which are in fine contrast with their long black hair and simple loose dress. Their dresses are always neat, and hang from the shoulders without being girded at the waist. They are trimmed off by the fair hands of the wearers with ornamental bor- ders, &c., &c. The convent in the rear of, and immediately ad- joining the church, is an immense pile of stone, built in 1624, and was formerly inhabited by monks of the order of St. Francis. The only habitable part of this vast structure, at present, is occupied by the curate, the padre, and myself. A suite of three rooms were given to me ; but, in my humble way, I made two suffice. Its blackened walls, its spacious halls and corridors, dilapidated casements, its numerous squares and gardens, all going to ruiii, presented the same melancholy picture that is to be seen in all the principal towns in the province. A large portion of the inhabitants are Mestizos, who are orderly and well to do in the world. Their houses, in the borders of the town, are comfortable ; and the wide-spreading palm, growing near, gives to them quite a picturesque appearance. They manu- facture hats for exportation, and earthenware for home use. JO 146 RUINS OF ICHMUL. The health of the town is good. This may be at- tributed not only to the climate, but to the uniform tem- perance of these people, both in eating and drinking. The roads to and from the principal towns are kept in excellent order. Portions of them, in the immediate vicinity, with the low stone walls at the sides, covered with vegetation, resemble those of England. In the adjoining districts, there are several large sugar plantations. Near the town of Tekax, consid- erable attention is paid to the cultivation of sugar, which is raised entirely for domestic consumption. The rains of Ichmul are situated about a half League north of the town of Ticul. The padre, with a few friends, accompanied me to visit them. What was my surprise, on arriving at this place, to observe a succession of mounds, or tumuli, extending man}'' miles around, in every direction, as far as the eye could reach — the sepulchres, perhaps, of millions ! who, in their turn, possibly, have looked upon simi- lar appearances, that exist no longer, with the same thoughts as we give utterance to in beholding these ! The grounds are now covered with grass and trees — a range for cattle! Some of these mounds were forty feet high. Several of them had been opened by the direction and under the superintendence of the curate, and within were found rooms, and skele- tons deposited in a sitting posture, with small pots at their feet, which was the position in which the an- cient Mexicans were in the habit of burying their dead. The walls and ceilings were quite perfect. DEPARTURE FROM TICUL. 147 Large pieces of hewn stone and pillars were Ijing scattered around these places, affording ground for the presumption that they were formerly portions of a once great and populous city. On onr return with the padre, we dismounted at his house; our horses were led througli it, and my- self into it, where, seated in a hammock, I partook of refreshments, and spent a very pleasant hour with my kind cicerone. I then took my leave, returned to the convent, rode through the long hall, and dis- mounted at my parlor door. February 23d, at seven o'clock in the morning, I bade adieu to my good friends of Ticul, and we con- tinued our journey. It was a delightful morning; our route was along the foot and across the Cordil- leras ; which we ascended by a narrow, rough, and cragged pass. We were obliged to dismount shortly after we commenced the rise, as the steep and slip- pery rocks make it not only difficult but hazardous, and we were glad to lead our horses over in safety. The prospect from the summit was beautiful and pic- turesque. Our descent was rather more easy and rapid; and we reached the town of Nohcacab, three leagues distant, at half past eight o'clock. Here we took a hasty breakfast, procured a guide, and were again on the road to Kabbah, distant three leagues, for the purpose of looking at the ruins which we learned were to be seen at this place. CHAPTER VIIL TheKuins of Kahbah — Those of Zayi — Scattered Ruins — Churcli at Nohcacab — The Padre — The Town — Departure for Uxmal — Ar- rival at the Hacienda — Quarters and Arrangements — The Scenery — General Character of the Ruins of Uxmal — The Governor's House — The Nuns' House — The Pyramid — Other Remams — Pyramids, Walls, and Mounds — Reservok — Moonliglit. I FIRST entered upon the ruins of Kabbah from the main road leading foam Nohcacab to Bolen-Chen- Ticul. On the west side I found fragments of build- ings, walls, &c., scattered about, principally upon a low range of hills. No perfect rooms were visible. Parts of walls and ceilings were seen, and the ground about covered up with rubbish, mingled with broken pillars, sculptured work, &c. In the building farthest from the road, (which is in the best preservation of any on the west side,) we observed two square pil- lars, which had been taken from the door-way, and placed against the ceiUng of the room, by some trav- eller, no doubt, who intended to present them to the world. They are about six feet high and two wide ; the front facings of which are deeply cut, represent- ing a cacique, or other dignitary, in full dress, (appa- rently a rich Indian costume,) with a profusion of 'feathers in his head-dress. He is represented with RUINS OF KAHBAH. 149 his arms uplifted, holding a whip ; a boy before him in a kneeling position, with his hands extended in supplication ; underneath are hieroglyphics. The room is small, with the ceiling slightly curved ; dif- fering, in this particular, from those of Chi-Chen. The ruins on the east side of the road comprise mainly three buildings, and an immense pile of stone inla pyramidical form, and in a much better state of preservation than those on the opposite side. These buildings are elevated upon a succession of terraces, which I ascended by a double flight of broken steps, to a square formed in front of each ; the sides of which show the existence of walls now nearly levelled, and overgrown with trees and vegetation. Sufficient, however, is remaining of two buildings to indicate a similarity with those of the opposite side. The fronts measure about one hundred feet, the facades of which are ornamented with the most elaborate and skilful work, though now much broken and defaced. The carvings are somewhat similar to those of Chi- Chen ; but they are much smaller, and do not display as much order in the arrangement. Broken columns, of unusual sizes, are to be seen a short distance from these buildings, evidently moved from their original positions. The door-step of the principal inner room is elabo- rately sculptured, and entirely different from any thing I have observed in other places. In the centre of one of these squares, foundation walls are to be seen, which have been recently excavated. They, proba- bly, were pedestals. These structures stand, uni- 150 ROUTE TO ZAYI. formly, about four rods apart, on a line ; and all have mounds and a succession of broken walls contiguous to them A few rods north of these buildings is a mass of broken stones, piled together in the shape of a pyra- mid, at the summit of which, to the height of one hundred and twenty-five feet, are still to be found the remains of the broken walls of an edifice. It is lo- cated, with reference to the cardinal points, like the pyramid of Chi -Chen, and was probably used for the same purposes, (whatever those might have been,) though the style of the work is not similar or equal to it. Its sides, at the base, measure five hundred feet, and are mostly bare ; the loose stones barely maintain their form. The space occupied by these ruins cannot be less than a mile square. On the 24th of February, at sunrise, we were again in the saddle, passing over the same road as yester- day, and following a guide, with his pack of maza and water, the Yucatan "staff of life," in pursuit of other ruins, situated about two and a half leagues south-east of those at Kabbah. The road was good, and its direction through several ranchos. Halting at one of these, under a shed of boughs, erected in front of a rudely built Indian church, we took our breakfast. The variety and quality of our repast were not such as to detain us long, and we were soon upon our route, through a hilly country to Zayi. 1 found my way to the principal ruin with little diffi('ulty, it having heen recently visited, as I learned from the natives, by Mr. Stephens, to whose recent labors I J^ ?*^% t. fi ?.<* t-**^" ^-''^'S' ■ ( ,», - I — 1 -I THE NUNS' HOUSE. 161 the rooms with their crumbhng ruins. It measures about two hundred and forty-six feet in length, and twenty-five in width, and its height is now only about twenty-six feet. Something like one-third of the or- naments upon the facade yet remain, which bear evi- dence of great power of combination, and extraordi- nary skill in the building. No part of the edifice, however, is perfect. The east and west ranges stand upon foundations which are ten feet high. The ranges are about one hundred and forty feet in length, thirty-four in breadth, and twenty-five in height, having four doorways, di- vided into eight rooms each. Those of the east are in good preservation — those of the west are much fallen and broken. The largest one of the rooms hes on the east side, and measures thirty feet by twelve. The others range about twelve by eighteen ; having ante-rooms on either side, nine by twelve. The height of the ceiling is uniform throughout, and the walls are finished with a clean, white, hard substance. The finish and style, as well as the arrangement of the ornaments, on all sides of these walls, are differ- ent. They are much broken, and many pieces are lost, which renders it quite impossible to get at the designs. The northern front, no doubt, was the principal one, as I judge from the remains, as well as from the fact, that it is more elevated than the others. The southern range is more plain, both in its front and rear. The eastern facade is filled with elaborate or- naments, differing entirely from the others, and better 11 162 THE NUNS' HOUSE. finished. The western facade is much broken. The remains of two great serpents, however, are still quite perfect ; their heads turned back, and entwining each other, thej extend the whole length of the fa9ade, through a chaste ground- work of ornamental lines, in- terspersed with various rosettes. They are put to gether by small blocks of stone, exquisitely worked, and arranged with the nicest skill and precision. The heads of the serpents are adorned with pluming feathers and tassels, their mouths widely extended, and their tails represent the rattle divisions. In the rear of, and within a few feet of the east- ern range, are the remains of a similar range, which is now almost in total ruins. There appear to have been connecting walls, or walks, from this range to the Pyramid near by, as I judged from the rubbish and stones that can be traced from one to the other. The outer walls of the northern foundation, which yet remain quite perfect, are not excelled, in point of workmanship, by the work of any artisans of the pre- sent day. The outer angles, in particular, are worked with a skill which is almost incredible. Among the great variety of orna- ments, with which these edifices abound at present, I discovered a number of large stone hooks, fine- ly carved, and none of them bro- ken. They generally are placed over the doorways, and upon the angles of the buildings, and must have been an important or a favorite ornament, from the con- q < ^5 Tnl] "h THE PYRAlVnD. 163 spicuous places invariably chosen for lliem. There are also figures of men, representing Indians, in stand- ing and sitting postures, with long clubs ; but they are rude, both in design and execution. Within these quadrangular edifices is a terrace about six feet wide, extending round the entire court, with flights of steps on all sides, descending to the large court below, which is covered with square blocks of stone, considerably worn. The surface was broken, and covered with earth and vegetation. In the centre of the court is an excavation, in which an immense shapeless stone was discovered, similar to one excavated from the area of the main terrace of the Governor's House. The Pyramid is situated about two rods easterly from the ruins of the Nuns' House, to which it ap- pears, in some way, to have been connected. It pre- sents a fine exterior of hewn stone, large at the base, and their sizes diminishing as they approach the plat- form. The sides are precipitous, much broken, and covered with trees. Its base measures five hundred feet ; from the base to the summit or platform, it is one hundred. The summit is reached, on the east- ern side, by a flight of a hundred stone steps, each one foot high, and about six inches deep ; making the ascent quite difficult, although the steps are still in good preservation. The area of the platform measures seventy-two feet in length and twenty-one in width, and is occu- pied by an edifice sixty feet long, twelve wide, and twenty high ; having two rooms both on the east and 164 THE PYRAMID. on the west sides, and one on either end. These rooms are much defaced, and their doorways dilapi- dated. The eastern front has two doorways, and two small pavilions projecting six or eight inches from the facade, supported bj plain pilasters. The western facade is ornamented with human figures similar to caryatides, linelj sculptured in stone with great art. Their heads are covered with a casque, and ear ornaments similar to those worn by the Egyptians. They have girdles around their bodies. On the western side, immediately in front of the doorway, is a platform, or roof of a room, the base or floor of which includes about twenty feet of the inclined side of the Pyramid ; leading to which is a broken plane, once occupied by the steps. Here are two rooms, one of which is of an unusually large size, with a proportionate doorway, fronting the Nuns' House. The interior of these rooms was finely fin- ished with smooth stone. There appeared to be no communication from them with any other part. The front and sides of the exterior were filled with sculp- tured work of the most elaborate and incomprehen- sible description. The same degree of skill and pre- cision was perceptible here that distinguishes the whole ruins. Below these rooms, at or near the base of the side, are others, where excavations have been made. They are now much broken, and covered with the fallen ruins. A few rods distant, in a southwest direction from the Governor's House, are the remains of an exten- ffi' :w::i^> V '^ — r- ^'y^^ ' •vy \ ' V 5^. '^ f ^^^^..^ ^ c M © OTHER REMAINS. 165 sive range, or succession of ruins. They, probably, were once of no inconsiderable importance in the place. They are composed of terraces, walls, rooms and corridors, and court-yards. The principal ruin fronts the north, and, probably, was connected with the Governor's House. A wall of two hundred feet remains standing upon a foun- dation of ten feet. Its width is twenty-five feet; hav- ing ranges of rooms in both sides, only parts of which remain. This wall has an acute-angled arch door- way through the centre, similar to that of the Nuns* House, with rooms on both sides. The top of this wall has numerous square apertures through it, w4iich give it the appearance of pigeon-holes ; and its edge is formed like the gable-end of a house, uniformly notched. In front of this wall appears to have been an immense court or square, enclosed by stone walls, leading; to the Nuns' Hous€. The interior of this square, apparently, shows the ruins of walls and rooms and walks ; but nothing definite could be made out, as the ruins were almost level with the ground, and overgrown with trees and grass. At intervals, along the outer wall, in a northwest direction, the ruins of rooms were seen, evidently a regular succes- sion of them. In the rear of the principal wall is another court or square, but much smaller than that in front, hav- ing broken corridors, and the sides running back to an artificial elevation of about fifty feet ; the form of which was lost, owing to the dilapidation of the sides and angles. Ruins of rooms and corridors, both at -1-66 OTHER REMAINS. its base and summit, were perceptible. Other squares can be defined by the broken walls contiguous to these extensive ruins ; also, numerous mounds ; one of which, discovered w^est of the Nuns' House, is found to be an immense reservoir or cistern, having a double curb ; the interior of which was beautifully finished with stucco, and in good preservation. Some of these mounds have been excavated, as I have al- ready mentioned, and seemed to have been intended originally for sepulchres. In the centre of the avenue between the Governor's House and the Nuns' House, in a line with the prin- cipal doorway of the latter building, are the ruins of two walls, running parallel with each other, north and south, about twelve feet apart. The eastern and in- ner side shows the remains of a serpent along its fa- cade, similar to that of the Nuns' House — a small portion, however, only remains. It also shows rooms and ceilings quite level with the ground. The west- ern wall is more perfect, and has a ring inserted in its facade, like those of Chi-Chen ; but, instead of ornaments, presents hieroglyphics upon its sides. The short period to which I was, unfortunately, restricted in the examination of these sublime ruins, (and these remarks will apply to all which have come under my observation,) has permitted me to touch but slightly even upon those which have appeared to be the most prominent. Months might be spent among them, and then one would only have entered upon the threshold of an investigation into their wonders. A MOONLIGHT VIEW. 167 A moonlight scene from the Governor's House is one of the most enchanting sights I ever witnessed. The moon had risen about half way up from the horizon, and was now throwing its strong silver light over the whitened facade of our house. Castles, pal- aces, and falling pyramids were distinctly to be traced in the foreground. At a distance, walls and mounds, rising above the green verdure of the land, looked like a multitude of small islands in a calm summer's sea. All was quiet but the chirp of the cricket, or the occasional scream of some night-bird of the wood. It was a scene of natural beauty such as I never have seen realized upon canvass of the artist, or even in the pages of poetry. CHAPTER IX. Introductory Facts — Ruins of Yucatan and other parts of Mexico — Ruins of North America — Mississippi and Missouri — Look-Out Mountain — Ohio River — Mount Joliet and others — Indian Races — Ledyard — Bradford — Dr. Morton — Diversity of Opinions — Pyra- mids of Egypt — Speculations — Vassalage — Comparison — Tradi- tions — Embalming — Priesthood — Siamese — Japanese — Astrono- my and Mythology. There are three questions which will very natu- rally occur to those of my readers who have done me*the honor to follow me through the preceding de- tails and statistics : — 1st. By whom were these ruins built? 2d. When were they built? And 3d. For what purpose ? Before answering the first question it is proper to state, that all the ruins of which mention has been made in the preceding pages, and by Mr. Stephens and by Waldeck, are not a tithe of those still remaining uninvestigated on the American con- tinent, and, perhaps I may add, in the single province of Yucatan. Mounds, tumuli, pyramidal structures, and ruins of cities, have been seen from the southern extremity of South America even to the western side of the Rocky mountains — from Florida to the west- ern lakes. There is every reason to presume that the interior of Yucatan, and other portions of Mex- ico, contain remains of even a more striking charac- RUINS OF NORTH AMERICA. 169 ter than those it has been my province to describe. The Ohio valley and its vicinage are supposed to have been covered with more than five thousand villages, the largest of which stood near the junction of the Missouri and I\lississippi rivers * Regular and sci- entifically constructed works of a defensive charac- ter, between the Ohio river and the great lakes, are still to be traced ; some of which occupied, it is thought, more than one hundred acres of ground. Look-Out Mountain, which stands a thousand feet above the surrounding country, between the Tennes- see and Coos rivers, is one of the Alleghanies. Al- though the top is nearly level, it gives rise to a river which, after winding some distance, plunges abruptly over a precipice. Immediately below this fall, on each side, are bluffs two hundred feet high ; one of which, by the turn of the stream, forms a kind of isolated peninsula. On the summit of this are the remains of a fortification, that follows the curve of the river below for more than thirty-seven rods, and extends to the very brow of the rock. The only descent and access is by a kind of fissure, which reaches to the shore beneath. Thirty feet from the top, intersecting this passage, is a ledge or platform ninety feet long by two to five wide. At this land- ing are five rooms, cut out of the solid rock. The entrance is small ; but within they communicate with each other by doors or apertures. This wonderful excavation has the appearance of being intended as • Breckenrido:e. 170 MOUNDS IN OHIO. a place of the last resort for the inmates. From its peculiar position, twenty resolute men might success- fully contend against the assault of a numerous army, as not more than one at a time can approach, and the slightest push would hurl an assailant over a pre- cipice of a hundred and fifty feet to certain and in- stant death. That this is a remnant of antiquity there can be little doubt ; and that it has escaped the attention of the curious, is owing, probably, to its re- tired and almost unknown situation. On the Ohio river, twenty miles below the mouth of the Wabash, is a remarkable cave, consisting of two rooms, one immediately over the other. The uppermost is accessible by a square opening; and the lowest is twelve rods in length and five in breadth. The interior walls are smooth. The floor is level through the centre, but the sides rise in stony grades, resembling the seats in the pit of a theatre ; and leav- ing little doubt that it had been so arranged to ac- commodate an audience attending performances or dehberations of some nature. The engravings and hieroglyphics upon the walls are numerous and well executed. Many animals are represented, among which are eight that are now unknown. There are conical mounds in Ohio of various al- titudes and dimensions, some being only four or five feet, and ten or twelve in diameter at the base ; while others, farther south, rise even to a hundred feet, and cover many acres of ground. They are generally in the form of a cone. These structures seem to have PYRAMID AT CUANTJVACA. 171 been built at various periods ; and it would be no matter of surprise if some of them were in existence during the deluge. The materials which compose them appear to be suited to their locations. In those positions where stone was not to be had, they are formed of earth. At Mount Joliet, near the town of Juliet, on the Illinois river, is probably the largest mound within the limits of the United States. It is raised on a horizontal limestone stratum of the secondary for- mation, and is sixty feet high ; and measures, at the summit, eighty-four rods in length and fourteen in width ; and, at the base, it is much larger. In the neighborhood of Rock river (Illinois) the mounds are numerous, and give evidence that there once ex- isted in that vicinity a dense population. Southeast of the city of Cuanuvaca, on the west declivity of Anahuac, there is an isolated hill, upon the top of which is a pyramid. The whole height is upwards of six hundred feet, and it is five times as large as the tower of Babel. It has five terraces, each of nearly sixty feet in height, covered with solid masonry, upon the top of which rest the artificial works ; and the whole is surrounded with a broad deep ditch. In Peru, on the Cordilleras, at a surprising height, are works still more considerable. From a general resemblance of these structures throughout the whole American continent in their apparent purpose, age, and style of architecture, it is generally presumed that the architects belonged to the same races of na- 172 OPINIONS OF WIRT. tive Indians. I say races, for there are reasons for believing that the American continent has witnessed the growth and extinction of more than one race of men which had advanced to a high state of civili- zation. Wirt's impressions are, that three distinct races of men have occupied this country previous to the arri- val of the existing white settlers. The monuments of the first or primitive race are regular stone walls, brick hearths, (found in digging the Louisville canal,) medals of copper, silver swords, and implements of iron. These relics, he thinks, belonged to a race of civilized men who must have disappeared many cen- turies ago. To them he attributes the hieroglyphic characters found on the limestone bluffs ; the remains of cities and fortifications of Florida ; the regular banks of ancient live oaks near them ; and the hard and regular bricks found at Louisville, that were longer in proportion to the width than those of the present day. To the second race he attributes those vast mounds of earth found throughout the whole western regions, from Lake Erie and Western Pennsylvania to Flor- ida and the Rocky mountains. Som^e of them con- tain the skeletons of human beings, and display im- mense labor. Many of them are regular mathemati- cal figures — parallelograms and sections of circles; showing the remains of gateways and subterraneous passages. Some of them are eighty feet high, and have trees growing on them apparently five hundred years old. The soil upon them differs, generally, AMERICAN RACES. 173 from that which siurounds them ; and they are most common in situations where it since has been found convenient to build towns and cities. Many frag- ments of earthenware, of curious workmanship, have been dug up throughout this vast region ; some repre- senting drinking vessels, some human heads, and some idols. They all appeared to be made by the hand, and hardened in the sun. These mounds and earth- en implements indicate a race inferior to the first, which were acquainted with the use of iron. The third race are the Indians now existing in the western territories. In the profound silence and solitude of these western regions, and above the bones of a buried world, how must a philosophic traveller meditate upon the transitory state of human exist- ence, when the only traces of two races of men are these strange memorials ! On this very spot genera- tion after generation has stood, has lived, has warred, grown old, and passed away ; and not only their names, but their nation, their language has perished, and utter oblivion has closed over their once popu- lous abodes ! We call this country the new world. It is old ! Age after age, and one physical revolu- tion after another, has passed over it, but who shall tell its history ? Priest has concluded that the Carthaginians, Phoe- nicians, Persians, Hindoos, Chinese, Japanese, Ro- man, and Greek nations of antiquity, and others, as well as Europeans after their civilization, had more to do with the peopling of the wilds of America than is generally supposed. 174 OPINION OF LED YARD, Ledyard, in a letter to Mr. Jefferson, from Siberia, says, " I never shall be able, without seeing you in person, and perhaps not then, to inform you how uni- versally and circumstantially the Tartars resemble the aborigines of America. They are the same people^ — the most ancient and the most numerous of any other; and, had they not a small sea to divide them, they would all have still been known by the same name. * * * With respect to national or genealogical con- nexion, which the remarkable affinity of person and manners bespeaks between the Indians on this and the American continent, I declare my opinion to be, without the least scruple, and with the most absolute conviction, that the Indians on the one and on the other are the same people."^ " It appears," says Bradford, " that the red race may be traced, by physical analogies, into Siberia, China, Japan, Polynesia, Indo-China, the Malayan Islands, Hindostan, Madagascar, Egypt, and Etruria. In some of these nations the pure type of the race may be per- ceived existing at present, in others many of its char- acters have been changed and modified, apparently by intermarriage ; and, in others, its ancient existence is only to be discovered by the records preserved on their monuments." " We are constrained to believe," says the learned Dr. Morton, " that there is no more resemblance be- tween the Indian and Mongol in respect to arts, ar- chitecture, mental features, and social usages, than ex- ists between any other two distinct races of mankind. * Sparks' Life of Ledyard. SPECULATIONS. 3 75 " I maintain that the organic characters of the peo- ple themselves, through all their endless ramifications of tribes and nations, prove them to belong to one and the same race, and that this race is distinct from all others. * * * The evidences of history and the Egyptian monuments go to prove that the same races were as distinctly marked three thousand years ago as they are now ; and, in fact, that they are coeval with the primitive dispersion of our species." Whatever diversity of origin may- have existed among the races of Indians whose remains are the burden of our speculations, one thing is certain, that the builders of the ruins of the city of Chi-Chen and Uxmal excelled in the mechanic and the fine arts. It is obvious that they were a cultivated, and doubt- less a very numerous people. It is difficult to sup- pose that any great advance in mechanico-dynamic science could have been made by these people, with- out some evidence besides their works remaining. Yet it is almost impossible to suppose that those vast erections could have been made by the mere aggre- gation of men, unaided by science. Herodotus tells us that a hundred thousand men, relieved every three months, were employed in building the pyramid of Cheops in Egypt. Ten years were spent in prepar- ing the road whereon the stones were to be transport- ed, and t\venty years more in erecting the edifice. Yet though Cheops had a nation of slaves to do his bidding, and though he employed such multitudes upon this stupendous work, it is generally supposed that he must have been aided by some kind of ma- 176 VASSALAGE. cliinery more powerfal than any thing known at the present day. It is also pretty obvious that Chi-Chen, and the other cities of Yucatan, were built by a nation of slaves. All the buildings whose remains are now visible, were evidently constructed to gratify the pride of a single man or set of men. They were monu- ments raised to the glory of the few at the expense of the thousands. They are not the kind of works that the people join in building of their own free- will. They answer no public purpose or conveni- ence. No nation of freemen would spend their mo- ney or their labor in that way. We may safely con- clude that the doctrines of free government were quite unknown among this ancient people — that they were governed by a despotism, and that they were taxed contrary to their will, for these, the only works which were to memorialize their servitude to posterity. So much for the builders of these ruins. The next question which occurs, when were they built 1 is, if possible, more difficult of solution than the one to which I have been speaking. The only way to get any idea of the age of these ruins is, by comparison with the remains of other cities of whose age we have some knowledge. Meas- uring their age by such a scale, the mind is startled at their probable antiquity. The pyramids and tem- ples of Yucatan seem to have been old in the days of Pharaoh. Before the eye of the imagination — ' COMPARISON. 177 " Their lonely columns stand sublime, Flinging their shadows from on high, Like dials, which the wizard Time Had raised to count his ages by." The reader is already sufficiently familiar with the general structure of the buildings which we have at- tempted to describe, and the present condition of their ruins. He will remember that there are walls there now standing, fifteen feet thick and more, built with an art and strength which defy both competi- tion and decay ; that there is one pyramid upwards of a hundred feet in height, with a building upon its summit, which supports trees that are planted in soil deposited from the atmosphere for the last thousand years or more. Let the reader compare these ruins, in their present condition, with the Cloaca Maxima of Rome. j\Iore than twenty- five hundred years have elapsed since this work was. constructed, to drain off the waters of the Forum and the adjacent hollows to the Tiber, and there it stands to this day without a stone displaced, still performing its destined ser- vice. How many years before it will present the ruinous aspect of the " Temple" of Chi-Chen? Evi- dently the city of Chi-Chen was an antiquity when the foundations of the Parthenon at Athens, and the Cloaca Maxima at Rome, were being laid. Com- pare with the ruins of Central America the conspicu- ous remains of Balbeck, of Antioch, of Carthage — shall I not add, of Tadmor, of Thebes, of Memphis, and of Gizeh, their Pyramids, their Labyrinths, their Obehsks, and Sepulchres. Who shall say that while 12 178 PURPOSES OF THE RUINS, the servile workmen of Cheops or Cephrinus were sacrificing the Hves of countless multitudes of men, to prove that the gods were not alone immortal, and to rear for themselves imperishable burial-places, that at the same time, on another continent, thousands of miles from the Egyptian house of bondage, a people of a different race, unknowing and unknown to his- tory, w^ere not laying the foundations of cities and of palaces and of temples, less stupendous perhaps, but no less a wonder and a mystery to succeeding nations? It is not for any man now to place a limit to the age of the American ruins ; but one thing will be evident to every one wlio shall look at the more ancient of those in Yucatan, that they belong to the remotest antiquity. Their age is not to be measured by hun- dreds, but by thousands of years. With regard' to the purpose of these ruins, I can add little to the suggestions which have already been made during the progress of my narrative. They were, without a doubt, built primarily for the honor and glory of the rulers of the country. They are, as Phny very justly says, when speaking of the similar achievements of the Eastern tyrants, '' Regwn pecu- ni(E otiosa ac stulta ostentatio" Their secondary purposes, doubtless, were to be used as palatial resi- dences, imperishable sepulchres for the dead, and tem- ples for rehgious worship. It is impossible to sup- pose that any of the ruined buildings of which I have given a description could have been intended for private abodes, or could have been constructed by private enterprise. On the contrary, not a vestige of TRADITIONS OF THE INDIANS. 179 the ordinary houses in which the masses might have been supposed to reside, remain. Every memorial of the people is gone, save the splendid structures which they erected to gratify the pride of their kings and their priests. In this connexion it may not be impertinent to allude to some of the religious opinions and cere- monies of the South American nations, which may throw hght upon the topic under consideration. Almost all the Indian tribes, even to the Charibs, have a traditionary account of the deluge and of the creation ; and, what is more singular, relate it as oc- curring in or near their present locations upon this continent — leading to the supposition of an antedi- luvian existence in America. They also have their great supernatural benefactors. The Brazilians have the Payzome, the Tamanac race their Amalivaca, the Chilians their Them, the Muyscas their Bochica, the Peruvians their Manco Capac, the Mexicans their duetzalcoatl, and the Chiapasans their Votan. This latter people represent Noah under the name of Coxox. The art of embalming seems to have been perfect- ly well known to the people who once inhabited the west, which shows that they were not the same with the roving Indians of later date.* The practice of burning the dead, which prevailed to a great extent in Asia and other parts of the world, was customary among all the more civilized tribes. Their usual method of burial was in the sitting posture.f Dv * Priest, t Bradford's Am. Ant. 180 " AMERICAN PRIESTHOOD. Morton says, that " no offence excites greater exas- peration in the breast of the Indian than the violation of the graves of his people ; and he has been known to disinter the bones of his ancestors, and bear them with him to a great distance, when circumstances have compelled him to make a permanent change of residence. The practice of inhumation is so differ- ent from that practised by the rest of mankind, and at the same time so prevalent among the American natives, as to constitute another means of identifying them as parts of a single and peculiar race. This practice consists in burying the dead in a sitting pos- ture ; the legs being flexed against the abdomen, the arms also bent, and the chin supported on the palms of the hands." All the civihzed Americans had a priesthood, and circumcision was practised by the Mayas of Yuca- tan, the Calchaquis of Caho,* and Mexicans,! who worshipped the sun and stars, believing that depart- ed souls became stars. Water was held to be sacred for religious ablution — and the mounds are generally found near it, or have the means of being well sup- plied. Adair assures us that the Choctaws called the old mounds "Nanne-Yah," " The Hills or Mounts of God;" a name almost identical with the Mexican pyramids. In Mexico, the Teocalli, or " Houses of God," or Houses of the Sun, (for the word " Teolt," the appellation of the Supreme Being, was also used to denote that luminary,) were regular terraced pyra- * Prof. Rafinesque. t De Solis. RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES. 181 mids, supporting chapels, which contained the images of their idolatry. The temples of the sun and moon, in Mexico, resemble similar temples among the an- cient Romans. The sun was worshipped at Emesa, says Gibbon, under the name of Elagabalus, under the form of a black conical stone, which, it was uni- versally believed, had fallen from heaven on that sa- cred spot. The Siamese and Javanese divide their weeks simi- lar to the Mexicans, the first, like theirs, being mar- ket-day; and their cycles, hke the Maya age, con- sisted of twenty years. This was a custom with them previous to any connexion with the Hindoos.* The behef of the Mayas and Mexicans, that the world would be destroyed at the end of one of their ages, coincides singularly with the same impression among the Egyptians, according to Herodotus, when they saw the sun descend from the Crab toward Capricorn. In the festival of Isis, when the orb be- gan to re-appear, and the days grew longer, they robed themselves in white garments, and crowned themselves with flowers. The movements of the Pleiades were observed by most of the primitive nations, says Pritchard, and not less so by the southern and central Indians. It is an Egyptian legend that the body of Osiris (the moon) was cut to pieces by Typhon (the sun.) So, likewise, in the Mexican mythology, the woman serpent (the moon) is said to be devoured by the sun ; a fabulous allusion to the changes of the moon. In Mexico the * Crawford's Siam. 182 VAGUE RESULTS. woman serpent, or moon, was styled the " mother of om* flesh ;" so, in Egypt, that luminary was called the " mother of the world." The Mexicans, Peruvians, Araucanians, the Canadian and Huron Indians; as, also, the Chinese, Malays, and Hindoos, in cases of eclipses of the sun or moon, shot off arrows at them, made hideous noises, caused dogs to bark and howl, and in every possible way struggled to separate the two antagonists. Thus much with regard to the impressions left upon my mind respecting the origin and purpose of these ruins. I make no apology for their vagueness. It would be presumptuous to attempt to have any definite ideas upon the subject But in order to af- ford the reader every facility for forming clearer views, if possible, than myself, I have collected and subjoin in another chapter, a mass of historical information connected with the subject before me, selected from the writings of the most recent, sagacious, and faith- ful travellers, who have left us any record of their studies. These extracts present all the most import- ant facts known of the early inhabitants of Mexico. How far history can assist the antiquary in his inves- tigations of this subject, may be pretty satisfactorily judged by consulting the following chapter. CHAPTER X. Waldeck's Remarks on Uxmal — Ancient Tools — Soil and Health Ancient Customs — End of Time — The Coronation of an Emperor— Religious Beliefs— Marriage Ceremony — Infant Baptism— Origin of those Rites — Horse Worship — Amusements — Markets — Idols — Candidates for Matrimony — Their Worship Varies— Refine- ments. In respect to the ruins of Uxmal, Waldeck remarks, that "nothing is in stucco — all is in well-worked stone. Cogolludo and Gutierre have confounded Palenque with Uxmal, and Uxmal with Copan. The edifices of Palenque, except the palace, are of small dimensions — those of Uxmal are, comparatively, co- lossal, and all constructed of hewn stone. The py- ramid is called the Conjurer's Tower, and is the high- est of five seen by the author. He considers it a place originally devoted to sacrifices. The Asiatic style is easily recognised in the architecture of this monument. It is ornamented by the symbolic ele- phant upon the rounding corners of the building. The trunk is yet visible on the east side, though the whole figure is much broken on the west side. It is to be regretted that the figure is not entire. The legs, for the most part, are wanting. There are some statues in basso-relievo, very natural ; and in some 184 REMARKS ON UXM^y:.. respects very correctly designed. Above all, in the ornaments, we must admire the patience of the work- men, and the taste of those ancient people, so rich in monumental wealth. Blue and red are the only col- ors distinguishable upon the walls. The carvings, which ornament the facades of some of the edifices of Uxmal, deserve the careful attention of artists and savans. When they carefully examine the squares, which compose those beautiful embellishments, they will be convinced that their designers had a profound knowledge of the principles of geometry. I have measured all the details by plumb and line, and have found them to conform to each other with perfect accuracy in all their parts." No iron implements, or tools of any description, have been discovered here ; nor was I successful in finding anything of the kind at Chi-Chen. Fhnt was undoubtedly used. This stone is capable of being formed with a most delicate natural edge, which is as durable, in the working of limestone, as that of steel. The soil about Uxmal is rich, principally of a red sand loam, capable of producing corn, tobacco, and almost any other product that the limited industry of its inhabitants may be disposed to cultivate. The face of the land is somewhat undulating, and free of that flat monotonous appearance which may be con- sidered as almost an affliction to a great portion of this province. There are ponds in the vicinity; which, taken in connexion with the rank vegetation which borders them, engender considerable sickness ANCIENT CUSTOMS. 1S5 durinsi: the months of autunui. The timber through- out Yucatan is of a stinted growth. Antonio de Sohs, the author of the '' History of the Conquest of Mexico," a work of even classical merit, written at a period when he couhi have access to all the facts, gives some of the peculiar customs of the natives of Mexico that may be verv properly noticed here ; as they m;iy throw some light upon the subject when the matter is brought to the rellec- tion of those who are more competent than I am to draw conclusions. Some allowance should be made for the religious prejudices of the age in which this book was produced, and of its author. De Solis says that the ]\Iexicans adjusted their calendar by the motion of the sun, making his altitude and declina- tion the measure of times and seasons. They allow- ed to their years three hundred and sixty-five davs, and divided them into eighteen months o( twenty days each ; leaving the five overplus days to come in at the end of the year, which were celebrated as holydays. Their weeks consisted of thirteen days, with dilVereut names marked in their calendar by images. The '- age" or cycle, in their calendar, was four weeks of years, marked by a circle, ^vhich thev divided into fifty-two degrees, allowiuiia year to each degree. In the centre of this circle they painted the suii, from whose rays proceeded four lines of dilVer- ent colors, which equallv dividtnl the circumference, leaving thirteen degrees to each semi-diameter ; and these divisions served as signs of their zodiac, upon which their ages had their revolutions, and the sun 186 END OF TIME. his aspects, prosperous or adverse, according to the colors of the lines. In a large circle, enclosing the other, they marked, with their figures and characters, the accidents of the age, and all circumstances which had happened worthy of being remembered. These secular maps were public instruments, which served for a proof of their history. It may be remarked among the wisest institutions of their government, that they had official historiographers, whose duty it was to preserve for posterity the exploits of their nation. They had a superstition that the world was in danger of destruction at the last day of the " age" of fifty-two years ; and all the people prepared them- selves for that dreadful and ultimate calamity. They took leave of the light with tears, and expected death without any previous sickness. They broke their household vessels as unnecessary lumber, extinguish- ed their fires, and walked about hke disturbed peo- ple, without daring to take any rest, till they knew whether they were to be for ever consigned to the regions of darkness. On the dawning of day they began to recover their spirits, with their eyes fixed towards the east ; and, at the first appearance of the sun, they saluted him with all their musical instru- ments, and congratulated each other upon their secu- rity for the duration of another age. They imme- diately crowded to their temples to render thanks to their gods, and to receive from the priests new fire, which had been preserved by them throughout the night. Next, they made a new provision for their CHOICE AND CORONATION OF EMPERORS. 187 necessary subsistence, and this day was spent in pub- lic rejoicings ; the diversions being dedicated to the renewal of time, much after the manner of the secu- lar games among the Romans. Their emperor, who was chosen by electoral prin- ces upon the death of his predecessor, receives the crown upon very precise conditions. He is obliged to take the field with the forces of the empire, and obtain some victory over his enemies, or subdue some rebels or some neighboring province, before he can be crowned, or permitted to ascend the royal throne. So soon as the victorious prince was found to be qualified for the regal dignity by the success of his enterprise, he returned triumphantly to the city, and made his public entry with great state and solemnity. The nobility, ministers, and priests accompanied him to the temple of war, where, after he had offered the customary sacrifices, the electoral princes clothed him in the royal robes ; arming his right hand with a sword of gold, edged with flint, the ensign of justice, and his left with a bow and arrows, signifying his power and command in war. Then the first elector, the king of Tezcuco, placed the crown upon his head. After this, one of the most eloquent magistrates made a long harangue, wishing him joy of the dignity in the name of the whole empire ; and added some doc- uments, representing the troubles and cares that at- tend a crown, with the obligations he lay under to guard the public good of his kingdom; recommend- ing to him the imitation of his ancestors. This speech being ended, the chief of the priests approach- 188 RELIGIOUS BELIEF. ed him with great reverence, and between his hands the emperor took the oath with great solemnity. He swore to maintain the rehgion of his ancestors ; to observe the laws and customs of the empire ; to treat his vassals with lenity ; that, during his rule, they should have seasonable rains ; and that no inunda- tions of rivers, sterility of soil, or malignant influence of the sun, should happen. Amidst such a multitude of gods as they worship, they still acknowledge a superior deity, to whom they attribute the creation of the heavens and the earth.* This first cause of all things was, among the Mexi- cans, without a name ; there being no word in their language whereby to express his attributes. They only signified that they knew him by looking towards heaven with veneration, and giving him, after their way, the attribute of ineffable, with the same reli- gious uncertainty as the Athenians worshipped the Unknown God. They believed in the immortality of the soul, and in future rewards and punishments. They buried great quantities of gold antl silver with their dead, in a belief that it was necessary to bear their expenses through a long and troublesome jour- ney. They put to death some of their servants to accompany them ; and it was a common thing for wives to consummate the exequies of their husbands by their own deaths. Princes were obliged to have monuments of vast extent, for the greatest part of their riches and family were interred with them; * Montezuma, in reply to Cortes, says, " In regard to the creation of the world, our beliefs are the same." — Bernal Diez. MARRIAGE CEREMONY. TS9 both the one ;iiul the other in proportion to thou- diil^nity and ji;ran(leur. Tlic whole of the servants were oblif^ed to aeeonipany the prinee hito the other world, toj^ether with some Ihitterers anioni; them; who, at that time, snllered lor the deceit of their pro- fession. The marriage was a kind of contrac-t, with some religious ceremonies. The preliminary articles be- ing all agreed upon, the couple appeared in the tem- ple, and one of the j)riests examined their inclina- tions by certain lornial questions, ai)poiMle(l by law for that purpose. He then took the tip of the wo- man's veil with one- hand, and one corniM" ol the husband's garmimt in the other, and tied them to- gether at the ends, to signify the interior tie of their affections. Thus they returned to their habitation, accompanied by the same priest; wliere, imitating the Romans with regard to their dil Ldrcs, or house- hold gods, they paid a visit to the domestic fn-e, wliicli they believed concerned in the union between the married pair. They went round it seven times, fol- lowing the priest ; after which they sat down to re- ceive their equal share of the heat, ami this accom- plished their marriage. 'I'hey registered in a public instrument tlu^ portion brought by the bride, every part whereof the husband was obliged to restore in case they parted, which very frequently happened; for mutual consent was Judged to be asuflicient cause for a divorce; a case in which the laws !U!ver inter- fered. When once thus dissolved, it was inevitable 190 INFANT BAPTISM. death for them to conic together agam. Inconstancy was punished with the utmost rigor. Their new-born ini^ints were carried to the tem- ples with solemnity, and the priests received them with certain admonitions concerning the troubles to which they were born. If they were the sons of nobles, they put a sword into the child's right hand, and upon his left arm a shield, kept in the temple for that purpose. If of plebeian extraction, they put into their hands mechanical instruments; and the females, of both degrees, had only the distaff and spindle, signifying to each the kind of employment which destiny had prepared for them. This cere- mony over, they were brought to the altar, and there, with a thorn of maguey, or a lancet of flint, they drew some drops of blood from the privy parts ; after which they either sprinkled them with water, or dipped them into it ; using, at the same time, certain invocations. This appears to be a striking imitation of baptism and circumcision, which De Solis very piously attributes to the devil ; who, he also says, in- troduced among these barbarians the confession of sins, giving it to be understood that thereby thej ob- tained the favor of their gods. He (the devil) like- wise instituted a sort of communion, which the priest administered upon certain days of the year ; dividing into small bits an idol made of flour and honey, mix- ed into a paste, which they called the god of Peni- tence. They had jubilees, processions, offerings of incense, and the other forms of divine worship. They even gave their chief priests the title oi papas in their I.iii^n.ij^f ; \\ IHTKH AND CI'.HI'IMONIKH. I .M l.iii^n.ij^f ; \\ IimIi, l(»;jcllicr \\\\\\ oiIkt iiiiil.ilioiiM of iIh* ('.iIIioIk (IiiikIi, llir iidllioi lliiiiKs iiiiinI Ii;iv<) liONt. S;il;iii ;i I chtsr sliidy 'IimI iMTScvriMiirc ! Tlir icsl <>l (lif riles :iiii nilli ill)' rr^iiliirily :iiid .idiniiiililc rcoiiniiiy vvliicli vvrr(! o d dl§ y^t ^ ^^ ^< r!=^ 1 o z s « tS) ^ ^ o -^ ? ■/) ^S © S CHAPTER XL Departure froni Uxmal — Abala — Tlio Road — The Ourato's llaoioiula — Arrival at INToriila — Hotel ilo DiliijoiuMas — Hishop I'roai'luui;- - Straii — Departure trom IMerida — Coach and Tassenj^jers - Scenes of the Road — Zihackchen — Ae- commodatioiis — Arrival at rampenchy. The reader will remember that the narrative ot inv jonrneyings terminated at Uxmal. I linished makinji; my observations of those ruins, and on the -Ith of Mareh embarked '\i\ a Vueatan eoaeh and four, (four stout Indians,) crossed the Cordilieras, and the same night slept at the Casa-real at Muua, tlistant three leagues. While waiting for my tortillas and eggs, I shall be pardoned for expressing n>v aeknowledgments («> the major-domo of tiie haeienda at I'xmal, to whom I was indebted for many kindnesses ; ami it will not be amiss to add, thai iiis was one of the best mamiged estates that I observed in Yucatan. *^rhe hacienda is built of hewn stone, taken prin- cipally from the ruins; more of which the Indians are now engaged in bringing away for the improve- ments the building is at present ujidergoing. h is about eighty feet front, having one range of rooms, with a high and wide balcony in front and rear. w'uU 200 MUNA — DETENTION. a small chapel attached. In front is the cattle-yard, with its stone and mortar troughs for water, and wells and cisterns at the sides ; the whole surrounded by a high stone wall, in the front centre of which is an immense arch- way, set off with pinnacled ornaments selected from the ruins. There are a large number of Indians attached to this hacienda, who appear well ; and so does every thing else connected with it. Different from many others, this establishment has an air of comfort and prosperity, much to the credit of those who supervise its concerns. It has its six hundred bee-hives, which are made of hollow logs, cut into lengths of two feet each. They are well arranged under sheds erected for the purpose -^^ opened monthly, and the honey ex- tracted. They do not yield so much honey, or of so good a quality, neither are the bees as lively as those of the north. Their bees have no sting. Great at- tention is paid to the preservation of the wax, which is almost a staple in the country, so much is consumed in the religious exercises. On the following morning we were detained for the want of a mule, and as it had been engaged at an early hour, I felt not a little annoyed at the disap- pointment. To indemnify myself in some measure, I resolved to look at the town ; but it was all like other towns here. That which most attracted my attention was seeing the Indian women, with their leathern buckets, and coils of long rope about their heads, and earthen pots under their arms, going to the well, which is in the centre of the square, to draw water. INKLING OF A THEORY — AB ALA. 201 1 thought of Rebecca — of the custom among the ancient IsiaeHtish women, of performing the same duty — and of the lost tribes : and I wondered if they did not stray this way, and found all these large cities that arc now tumbling to dust — and 1 was lost in re- flection, and — lost my ^^ay to the Casa-real, Mak- ing my course through squatted Indians and these female water-carriers, who had led me out of the path, as they have many a wiser man before, I discov- ered the stopping-place and waiting mule much easier than a solution to my new theory. At ten o'clock we were ready once more to set off upon our journey, over a rocky road, taking the for- mer from choice, the latter from necessity. After travelling four leagues, we passed through the small Indian town of iVbala. This place has a very neat white church, which was embellished with two tur- rets, making a pretty appearance amidst the dulness of every thing around it. There being no particular inducement to delay here, we once more took up our march, and, at live o'clock, and two leagues distant, we arrived at an hacienda belonging to one of the prin- cipal curates of the province, (Isamul,) where we re- mained for the night The house, although plain, was so arranged as to be both convenient ami pleas- ant. It looked (piite unlike any of the buildings for similar purposes in the country, but resembled that of one of those comfortable Dutch farni-houses, so common in Pennsylvania. It had a garden unusually well cultivated, and great attention was paid to the fruit trees. I noticed that great attention was given 202 THE CURATE'S HACIENDA — ARRIVAL AT MERIDA. also to irrigation, and, all things taken into considera- tion, it struck me as being a place where a man might make himself comparatively happy. Among the in- mates of the house I observed a number of beautiful Mestizos, but they did not outnumber those of the curate's house in Valladolid. At three o'clock, on the following morning, our feet were in the stirrups ; and bidding a kind adieu to our host, we were soon upon our rocky path, under the light of a waning moon. It must not be supposed that either the excellence of the road, or the particu- larly early hour, held out many inducements for leaving such desirable quarters ; but I was anxious to reach Merida with the least possible delay. The distance was six leagues to the city, which we reached, after passing through several haciendas, encountering clouds of dust under a scorching sun, on the 6th day of March. The appearance of the streets, as we rode through them, was singular. The stores and houses were closed, and scarcely a person was to be seen. It was evidently the much respected hour of siesta. Clouds of the fine white dust of the streets filled the air. It was like entering a city in the desert of Barca. I stopped at the "Hotel des Diligences," which had been opened during my absence ; and though I could not but feel some compunctions at having thus de- serted the amiable Dona Michaele, yet as she only kept her house purely for the accommodation of stran- gers, I felt my defection to be less serious. The new hotel was liberally supplied with all the natural ad- vantages that are necessary to make its inmates com- PUBLIC WORSHIP. 203 fortable. It was, in fact> un hotel Frmigais, and re- minded me strongly of those to be met with upon the borders of Switzerland, which, I am right glad to see, are finding their way into this province. Perhaps there is no part of the world where the traveller is more at a loss for accommodations upon the road, than in Yucatan. The jaded horses being provided for, I, as is my wont, soon made myself perfectly at home, and as happy as I could. I was not a little rejoiced to find that the hotel was provided with a bathing-room, a luxury of which 1 was not long in availing myself. I came out completely renovated, and with all con^ venient speed swung myself into a hammock and for- getfulness. On Sunday I attended public worship at the cathe- dral. The bishop delivered his last of an annual se- ries of ten sermons. " Heaven" was the subject of his discourse. The church was well filled ; the ladies, of course, and as usual, constituting a majority of the numerous assemblage that attended. They looked exceedingly well, though I could reconcile myself with difficulty to their seating themselves upon the cold stone floor. The words of the bishop, at the remote position which I occupied in the church, were indistinctly heard ; and, therefore, I am unable to give any opinion of their merits. One thing is certain, their author looked th^ prelate to admiration. It was rather an ungentlemanly or thoughtless act of the commanding officer on parade in the adjoining square, to fire a feu-de-joie during the preaching. Tt 204 PARTING WITH JOSE. had the effect of putting to rout many of the con- gregation, and drowning the bishop's voice, very much to his discomfiture. I had entertained much doubt respecting the popularity of the church among the higher order and the better informed people of Yucatan, and this went far to establish it. It is poli- cy, however, to keep it up as it is — but such exam- ples as this have quite a contrary tendency. For the last ten days the city has presented a sin- gular aspect. Stores have been closing and opening. Processions, military and ecclesiastical, have been the order of the day. Images, of all sizes and distinc- tions, have been paraded through the public streets, and the churches crowded with women. Prayers were uttered aloud in the public thoroughfares of the city ; and places of most resort, filled with both sexes, arrayed in suits of mourning. Govern- ment officers received indulgences, and all public labor was suspended. It was the enacting of the scenic shows of the death and rising of our Saviour. At half-past eight o'clock this morning, all the bells (and here are not a few) were put in motion. The Saviour had risen, and all was life — as life is in Merida ! My preparations for leaving Merida were com- pleted. It was now late in the evening, the last night of my stay at Merida ; and Jose had hung about, for one petty excuse or other, although he was sick, with an affectionate reluctance to leave me for the last time. The cause was almost too prominent to DEPARTURE FOR CAMPEACHY. -05 oscape iiotico; and \\\c vcwivmUvixwcc of his liiilt^ iVaillios, anil ihov uorc itMuarkablv Ic\n, was at oiicc hiuit'tl in ()l)livi()n. \\c wanted [o arconipanv mc homo, bnt his hcahhwonld not pcMinil ; ami I was obHii;ed to l'oit.>ii;o the indidi;viu'e ol' his wishes, and niv own incHnation to enjoy the advantaii;e of his laithlul serviees. The time has been when I have parted tVom a i;ood oUl horse \\ ith an ai;ita(ed bosom, anil eoidd loss have been expected npon this occasion ? The trnth nnist be told; we both shed tears. 1 felt sineerelv sorrv to part with him. Poor .lose, (lod bless him ! all I can do for him now is to i:;;ive him my kintl wislu^s. ami to spiNik ol him as lu^ is — ami to sav to m\ eonnli\men who may \isit Merida, that if tliey want a boy upon whom they ean depend to follow them faithfidlv thron^h the world, .lose is the lad to do it. On the '/lb of April, after expiMieneiiii; a tomb of the fever, to which all s(ranij;(Ms are subjected in this i'ountry, 1 left Merida, by eoaeh, for Campeaeby, It started at live o'eloek in the nu^rniui:;, with three pas- senii;ers ; an elderly woman and man and m\ si>lf com- posini>; the load. The team i2;alK)ped offal llu' rate often miles the hour, ami clianj;cd horses evi>ry hour dm'iuii; the route. The coach w as one of lour w hich were imporliHl from Troy; and, as a sample, was well worthy of the hiii;h reputation the Trojan car- riaii;es enjoy thront2;hout the Ihiitiul States; but the horses ami harness w (>ri' in shockiuii; bad keepiui;". The drivi'r was an liulian ; besides whom wore two other attendants, who were needed, for the nil- 206 JOURNEY TO CAMPEACHY. skilful hands of the Indian, and the wildness of the horses, made the vehicle go on all sides of the road. It was no uncommon occurrence, to be brought up against a stone wall at the side of the road ; and, in one instance, we were foul of an Indian hut, which frightened the inmates to such a degree that they ran out, supposing it to be an earthquake. By combin- ing the skill and strength of our whole party, we suc- ceeded in getting the horses and coach again upon the highway. We stopped at a village to take breakfast, and passed through several towns on the road, but they afforded nothing worthy of remark. The country through which our route lay, presented the same as- pect as other parts we had visited. The fields were still covered with weeds, to burn which the proprie- tors of the soil were only waiting for dry weather. This is the only preparation the soil receives prior to sowing it The progress of the coach afforded us much amusement, by the fright which it appeared to occasion to all animated nature in our way. This line of coaches had been only a short time estabhshed, and its whirling along among people and cattle, had a similar effect that a locomotive has among the ani- mals and their owners in the wilds of the far West. Nothing would stand before it. Away went horse and rider, mule and packs, to secure a safe retreat in the bushes, at the alarming sound of our approach. Our arrival in the town brought out the whole popu- lation, and the Indians would come round the coach DINNER AT ZIBACKCHEN. 207 aching with curiosity, their countenances expressive both of fear and admiration. Dinner was procured at a town called Zibackchen, and we remained here, for the want of horses, during the night. Our dining apartment was a billiard-room, where we sat down to a small table, four in all ; our conductor making one of the number. Our elderly male companion had evidently seen better days. He was much soured at the appearance of the viands placed before us ; and well he might be, for, agreea- bly to my recollections, they were shockingly bad, and dirty withal. There was but one knife; and that was used for the purpose of scraping the forks ; and yet, the charges were most extravagant. This, too, is the depot, under the personal supervision of the owners of the coaches, as we understood ; the principal of whom is the Secretary of State ! He, at least, ought to know the fact, and cause the evil to be abated. If I were upon those terms of intimacy that would warrant the freedom, with the kindliest motives, I would not hesitate to inform him of the existence of this crying evil. Our restiff fellow-pas- senger had spent some little time in New York, and was continually drawing comparisons; and, in his vexation at the things around him, expressed his opin- ion that Yucatan would never excel that State. This was a point upon which I felt no great disposition to cavil. I walked through the town at four o'clock. The streets were deserted, the houses closed, and the peo- ple in their hammocks. At five, men were lounging 208 ARRIVAL AT CAMPEACHY. about, and the ladies making their toilet, either at the windows or doors. This is a large town, and well built ; but not more than one-half of the houses are occupied. Early in the evening hammocks were slung in the bilHard-room, (the place that had been the scene of our recent dinner,) and all my fellow-passengers and myself, without distinction of party or sex, conduc- tors and Indians, turned in for the night. At four o'clock, next morning, we were called ; chocolate was served, and we were soon off by the hght of — our cigars ; our lady passenger keeping up the supply from an ample depository in the folds of her hair. The road was extremely stony, but it was now undergoing repairs and improvements. We ar- rived at Campeachy at nine o'clock ; a distance from Merida of forty leagues, and were set down at the Traveller's Hotel, immediately in front of the bay. Here is a fine view of the open roadstead, in which lie at anchor one Havana packet, and some four or five schooners. Near the shore are a number of ca- noes, engaged in the coasting trade. ^^ j> ' m'f. >:3 '•^^- f'wasi ,1 -^ W] 5=^ ^1^^ 5i' r^ fv:iii2 ,/ '!' /lon^ .'>,i."' H'lr^,' N° 2 Si'^'LoriffSJ "'Tf^ide '/"' Lonnf these islands, and most probably Jesso, rather than any other country. The inhabitants of these islands originated from China, and with them undoubtedly carried the Persian doctrines of the worship of the sun and fire ; consequently, we find it taught to the people of Aztalan and Mexico, by such as visited them from China or the islands above named ; as it is clear the sun was not the original object of adoration in Mexico, but rather the power which made the sun. So Noah worshipped. Their traditions also recognise another important chief, wholed 276 ORIGEV OF FIRE-WORSHIP. the Azteca tribes first to the country of Aztalan, long before the appearance of Quetzalcoatl or Bochica among them. This great leader they name Tecpaltzin, and doubtless allude to the time when they first found their way to America, and settled in the western region. — [Priest.] ORIGIN OF FIRE-WORSHIP. For many ages the false religions of the East had remained stationary ; but in this period, magianism received considerable strength from the writings of Zoroaster. He was a native of Me- dia. He pretended to a visit in heaven, where God spoke to him out of a fire. This fire he pretended to bring with him on his return. It was considered holy — the dwelling of God. The priests were for ever to keep it, and the people were to worship before it. He caused fire-temples everywhere to be erected, that storms and tempests might not extinguish it. As he considered God as dwelling in the fire, he made the sim to be his chief resi- dence, and therefore the primary object of worship. He aban- doned the old system of two gods, one good and the other evil, and taught the existence of one Supreme, who had under him a good and evil angel — the immediate authors of good and evil. To gain reputation, he retired into a cave, and there lived a long time a recluse, and composed a book called the Zend-Avesta, which contains the lituirgy to be used in the fire-temples, and the chief doctrines of his religion. His success in propagating his system was astonishingly great. Almost all the eastern world, for a season, bowed before him. He is said to have been slain, with eighty of his priests, by a Scythian prince, whom he attempted to convert to his religion. It is manifest that he derived his whole system of God's dwel- ling in the fire, from the burning bush, out of which God spake to Moses. He was well acquainted with the Jewish Scriptures. He gave the same history of the creation and deluge that Moses had given, and inserted a great part of the Psalms of David into his MEXICAN STONE CALENDAR. 277 writings. The Mehestani, his followers, believed in the immor- tality of the soul, in future rewards and punishments, and in the purification of the body by fire ; after which they would be united to the good. — (Marshes Ecclesiastical History, p. 78.) From the same origin, that of the burning bush, it is altogether probable the worship of fire, for many ages, obtained over the whole habitable earth ; and is still to be traced in the funeral piles of the Hindoos, the beacon-fires of the Scotch and Irisli, the periodical midnight fires of the Mexicans, and the council-fires of the North American Indians, around which they dance. A custom among the natives of New Mexico, as related by Baron Humboldt, is exactly imitated by a practice found still in some parts of Ireland, among the descendants of the ancient Irish. At the commencement of the month of November, the great fire of Sumhuiii is lit up, all the culinary fires in the kingdom being first extinguished, as it was deemed sacrilege to awaken the win- ter's social flame except by a spark snatched from this sacred fire ; on which account, the month of November is called, in the Irish language, Sumhuin. To this day, the inferior Irish look upon bonfires as sacred ; they say their prayers walking round them, the young dream upon their ashes, and the old take this fire to light up their domestic hearths, imagining some secret undefinable excellence connected with it. — [Priest.] GREAT STONE CALENDAR OF THE MEXICANS. This stone was found near the site of the present city of Mexico, buried some feet beneath the soil, on which is engraven a great number of hieroglj-phics, signifying the divisions of time, the motions of the heavenly bodies, the twelve signs of the Zodiac, with reference to the feasts and sacrifices of the Mexicans, and is called by Humboldt the Mexican Calendar, in relief, on basah, a kind of slone. 278 MEXICAN STONE CALENDAR. This deservedly celebrated historiograplier and antiquarian has devoted a hundred pages and more of his octavo work, entitled ^''Researches in America,^'' in describing the similarity which exists between its representations of astrology, astronomy, and the di- visions of time, and those of a great multitude of the nations of Asia — Chinese, Japanese, Calmucks, Mongols, Mantchaus, and other Tartar nations ; the Egyptians, Babylonians, Persians, Phoe- nicians, Greeks, Romans, Hebrews, and ancient Celtic nations of Europe. (See the American edition by Helen Maria Williams, vol. i.) The size of this stone was very great, being a fraction over twelve feet square, three feet in thickness, weighing twenty- four tons. It is of the kind of stone denominated trappean por- phyry, of the blackish gray color. The place where it was found was more than thirty miles from any quarry of the kind ; from which we discover the ability of the ancient inhabitants not only to transport stones of great size, as well as the ancient Egyptians, in building their cities and temples of marble, but also to cut and engrave on stone, equal with the present age. It was discovered in the vale of Mexico, in A. D. 1791, in the spot where Cortez ordered it to be buried, when, with his fero- cious Spaniards, that country was devastated. That Spaniard universally broke to pieces all images of stone which came in his way, except such as were too large and strong to be quickly and easily thus affected. Such he buried, among which this sculptured stone was one. This was done to hide them from the sight of the natives, whose strong attachment, whenever they saw them, counteracted their conversion to the Roman Catholic re- ligion. The sculptured work on this stone is in circles ; the outer one of all is a trifle over twenty-seven feet in circumference — from which the reader can have a tolerable notion of its size and ap- pearance. The whole stone is intensely crowded with repre- sentations and hieroglyphics, arranged, however, in order and har- mony, every way equal with any astronomical calendar of the present day. It is further described by Baron Humboldt, who saw and examined it on the spot : — MEXICAN STONE CALENDAR. '279 " The concentric circles, the numerous divisions and subdivis ions engraven on this stone, are traced with mathematical pre- cision. The more minutely the detail of this sculpture is exam- ined, the greater the taste we find in the repetition of the same forms. In the centre of the stone is sculptured the celebrated sign nahuiolin-TonatiuIi., the Sun, which is surrounded by eight trian- gular radii. The god Tonatiuh, or the sun, is figured on this stone, opening his large mouth, armed with teeth, with the tongue protruded to a great length. This yawning mouth and pro- truded tongue is like the image of iia/a, or, in another word, Time — a divinity of Hindostan. Its dreadful mouth, armed with teeth, is meant to sliow that the god Tonatiuh, or Time, swallows the world, opening a fiery mouth, devouring the years, months, and days, as fast as they come into being. The same image we find imder the name of Moloch among the Phoenicians, some of the an- cient inhabitants on the eastern side of the Mediterranean, from which very country there can be but little doubt America received a portion of its earliest inhabitants." Hence a knowledge of the arts to great perfection, as found among the Mexicans, was thus derived. Humboldt says the Mexicans have evidently followed the Persians in the division of time, as represented on this stone. The Persians flourished one thousand years before Christ. " The structure of the Mexican aqueducts leads the imagina- tion at once to the shores of the Mediterranean." — [Thomas's Travels, p. 293.) The size, grandeur, and riches of the tumuli on the European and Asiatic sides of the Cimmerian strait (which unites the Black sea with the Archipelago, a part of the Mediter- ranean, the region of ancient Greece, where the capital of Turkey in Europe now stands, called Constantinople), " excite astonishing ideas of the wealth and power of the people by whom they were constructed." But Avhatever power, wealth, genius, mag-nitude of tumuli, mounds and pyramids are found about the Mediterranean — where the Egyptian, the Phoenician, the Persian, and the Greek, have displayed the monuments of this most ancient sort of antiquities — all, all is realized in North and South America, and doubtless un- der the influence of the same superstition and eras of time, — 280 SCIENTIFIC ACQUIREMENTS having crossed over, as before argued ; and among the various aboriginal nations of South and North America, but especially the former, are undoubtedly foimd the descendants of the fierce Medes and Persians, and other warlike nations of the old world. The discoveries of travellers in that country show, even at the present time, that the ancient customs in relation to securing their habitations with a wall still prevail. Towns in the interior of Africa, on the river Niger, of great extent, are found to be sur- rounded by walls of earth, in the same manner as those of the West in North America. See the account as given by Richard Lander : " On the 4th of May, we entered a town of prodigious extent, fortified with three walls of little less than twenty miles in circuit, with ditches or moats between. This town, called Boo-hoo, is in the latitude of about eight degrees forty-three minutes north, and longitude five degrees and ten minutes east. On the 17th, we came to Roossa, which is a cluster of huts walled with earth." This traveller states that there is a kingdom in Africa called Yaorie, which is large, powerful, and flourishing, containing a city of prodigious extent. The wall surrounding it is of clay, very high, and in circuit between twenty and thirty miles. He mentions several other places, similarly enclosed by earth walls. It is easy to perceive the resemblance between these walled towns in central Africa, and the remains of similar works ia this country, America. — [Priest.] SCIENTIFIC ACQUIREMENTS OF ANCIENT BUILD- ERS IN THE WEST. As it respects the scientific acquirements of the builders of the works in the West, now in ruins, Mr. Atwater says : " When thoroughly examined, they have furnished matter of admiration to all intelligent persons who have attended to the subject. Nearly all the lines of ancient works found in the whole country, where the form of the ground admits of it, are right ones, pointing to the OF ANCIENT BUILDERS. 281 four cardinal points. Where there are mounds enclosed, the gateways are most frequently on the east side of the works, to- wards the rising sun. Where the situation admits of it, in their military works, the openings are generally towards one or more of the cardinal points. From which it is supposed they must have had some knowledge of astronomy, or their structures would not, it is imagined, have been thus arranged. From these circumstan- ces, also, we draw the conclusion, that the first inhabitants of America emigrated from Asia, at a period coeval with that of Babylon, for here it was that astronomical calculations were first made, 2234 years before Christ. " These things could never have so happened, with such inva- riable exactness in almost all cases, without design. On the whole," says Atwater, " I am convinced from an attention to many hundreds of these works, in every part of the West which I have visited, that their authors had a knowledge of astronomy. " Our ancient works continued into Mexico, increasing in size and grandeur, preserving the same forms, and appear to have been put to the same uses. The form of our works is round, square, triangular, semicircular, and octangular, agreeing, in all these re- spects with those in Mexico. The first works built by the Mexi- cans were mostly of earth, and not much superior to the common ones on the Mississippi." The same may be said of the works of this sort over the whole earth, which is the evidence that all alike belong to the first efforts of men in the very first ages after the flood. " But afterwards temples were erected on the elevated squares, circles, &c., but were still, like ours, surrounded by walls of earth. These sacred places, in Mexico, were called ' teocalli,^ which in the vernacular tongue of the most ancient tribe of Mexicans, sig- nifies ' mansions of the gods.'' They included Avithin their sacred walls, gardens, fountains, habitations of priests, temples, altars, and magazines of arms. This circumstance may account for many things which have excited some surprise among those who have hastily visited the works on Paint creek, at Portsmouth, Marietta, Circleville, Newark, &c. " It is doubted by many to what use these works were put ; 282 PREDILECTION OF THE whether they were used as forts, camps, cemeteries, altars, and temples ; whereas they contained all these either within their walls or were immediately connected with them. Many persons cannot imagine why the works at the places aboA'e mentioned were so extensively complicated, difiering- so much in form, size, and ele- vation, among themselves." But the solution is, undoubtedly, " they contained v/ithin them altars, temples, cemeteries, habita- tions of priests, gardens, wells, fountains, places devoted to sacred purposes of various Kinds, and the whole of their warlike mmii- tions, laid up in arsenals. These works were calculated for de- fence, and were resorted to in cases of the last necessity, where they fought with desperation. We are warranted in this conclu- sion, by knowing that these Avorks are exactly similar to the most ancient now to be seen in Mexico, connected with the fact, that the Mexican works did contain within them all that we have stated." — [Priest.] PREDILECTION OF THE ANCIENTS TO PYRAMIDS. In those early ages of mankind, it is evident there existed an unaccountable ambition among the nations, seemingly to outdo each other in the height of their pyramids ; for Humboldt men- tions the pyramids of Porsenna, as related by Varro, styled the most learned of the Romans, Avho flourished about the time of Christ : and says there were at this place four pyramids, eighty meters in height, Avhich is a fraction more than fifteen rods per- pendicular altitude : the meter is a French measure, consisting of three feet three inches. Not many years since was discovered, by some Spanish hunt- ers, on descending the Cordilleras toward the Gulf of Mexico, in the thick forest, the pyramid of Papantla. The form of this teocalli or pyramid, which had seven stories, is more tapering than any other monument of this kind yet discovered, but its height is not remarkable, being but fifty-seven feet — its base but twenty-five feet on each side. However, it is remarakable on one ANCIENTS TO PYRAMIDS. 283 account : it is built entirely of hewn stones, of an extraordinary- size, and very beautifully shaped. Three stair-cases lead to its top, the steps of which were decorated with hieroglyphical sculp- ture and small niches, arranged with great symmetry. The num- ber of these niches seems to allude to the 318 simple and com- pound signs of the days of their civil calendar. If so, this monu- ment was erected for astronomical purposes. Besides, here is evidence of the use of metallic tools, in the preparation and build- ing of this temple. In those mounds were sometimes hidden the treasures of kings and chiefs, placed there in times of war and danger. Such was found to be the fact on opening the tomb of a Peruvian prince, when was discoj^ered a mass of pure gold, amounting to 4,687,500 dollars. — [Humboldt^s Researches, vol. i. p. 92.) There is, in Central America, to the south-east of the city of Cuernuvaca, on the west declivity of Anahuac, an isolated hill, which, together with the pyramid raised on its top by the ancients of that country, amounts to thirty-five rods ten feet altitude. The ancient tower of Babel, around which the city of Babylon was afterward built, was a mere nothing compared with the gigantic work of Anahuac, being but twenty-four hundred feet square, which is one hundred and fifty rods, or nearly so ; while the hill we are speaking of, partly natural and partly artificial, is at its base twelve thousand and sixty-six feet : this, thrown into rods, gives seven hundred and fifty-four, and into miles, is two and three eighths, wanting eight rods, which is five times greater than that of Babel. This hill is a mass of rocks, to which the hand of man has given a regular conic form, and which is divided into five stories or terraces, each of Avhich is covered with masonry. These ter- races are nearly sixty feet in perpendicular height, one above the other, besides the artificial mound added at the top, makino- its height near that of Babel ; besides, the whole is surrounded with a deep broad ditch, more than five times the circumference of the Babylonian tower. We learn from Scripture that in the earliest times the temples of Asia, such as that of Baal-Berith, at Shechem, in Canaan, were not only buildings consecrated to worship, but also intrenchments 284 RUINS OF OTOLUM. in which the inhabitants of a city defended themselves in times of war ; the same may be said of the Grecian temples, for the wall which formed the parabolas alone afforded an asylum to the besieged. — [Priest.] THE REMAINS OF CITIES. The remains of cities and towns of an ancient population exist eveiywhere on the coast of the Pacific, which agree in fashion with the works and ruins foimd along the Chinese coasts, exactly west from the Avestern limits of Nortli America ; showing beyond all dispute that in ancient times the countries were known to each other, and voyages were reciprocally made. The style of their shipping was such as to be equal to voyages of that distance, and also sufficient to withstand stress of weather, even beyond ves- sels of the present times, on account of their great depth of keel and size. — [Priest.] RUINS OF THE CITY OF OTOLUM, DISCOVERED IN NORTH AMERICA. " Some years ago, the Society of Geography, in Paris, offered a large premium for a voyage to Guatemala, and for a new survey of the antiquities of Yucatan and Chiapa, chiefly those fifteen miles from Palenque." " They were surveyed by Captain Del Rio, in 1787, an account of which was published in English in 1822. This account de- scribes partly the ruins of a stone city, of no less dimensions than seventy-five miles in circuit, length thirty-two, and breadth twelve miles, fidl of palaces, monuments, statues, and inscriptions ; one of the earliest seats of American civilization, about equal to Thebes of ancient Eg}^pt." It is stated in the Family Magazine, Vol. I., p. 266, as follows : RUINS OF OTOLUM. 285 " Public attention has been recently excited respecting the ruins of an ancient city found in Guatemala. It would seem that these ruins are now being explored, and much curious and valuable matter in a literary and historical point of view is anticipated. We deem the present a most auspicious moment, now that the public attention is turned to the subject, to spread its contents be- fore our readers, as an introduction to future discoveries during the researches now in progress." The following are some particulars, as related by Captain Del Rio, who partially examined them as above related, 1787 : From Palenque, the last town northward in the province of Ciudad Real de Chiapa, taking a southwesterly direction, and ascending a ridge of high land that divides the kingdom of Guatemala from Yucatan, at the distance of six miles, is the little river Micol, whose waters flow in a westerly direction, and unite with the great river TuJija, which bends its course towards the province of Tabasco. Having passed Micol, the ascent begins ; and at half a league, or a mile and a half, the traveller crosses a little stream called Otolum ; from this point heaps of stone ruins are discovered, which render the roads very difficult for another half league, when you gain the height whereon the stone houses are situated, being still fourteen in "number in one place, some more dilapidated than others, yet still having many of their apartments perfectly discernible. Here is a rectangular area, three hundred yards in breadth by four hundred and fifty in length, which is a fraction over fifty-six rods wide, and eighty-four rods long, being, in the whole circuit, two hundred and eighty rods, which is three-fourths of a mile, and a trifle over. This area presents a plain at the base of the highest mountain forming the ridge. In the centre of this plain is situated the largest of the structures Avhich has been as yet discovered among these ruins. It stands on a mound or pyramid twenty yards high, which is sixty feet, or nearly four rods in perpendi- cular altitude, Avhich gives it a lofty and beautiful majesty, as if it were a temple suspended in the sky. This is surrounded by other edifices, namely, five to the northward, four to the south- ward, one to the southwest, and three to the eastward — fourteen 286 RUINS OF OTOLUM. in all. In all directions ttie fragments of other fallen buildino-s are seen extending along the momitain that stretches east and west either way from these buildings, as if they were the great temple of worship, or their government house, around which they built their city, and where dwelt their kings and officers of state. At this place was found a subterranean stone aqueduct, of great solidity and durability, which in its course passes beneath the largest buUding. Let it be understood, this city of Otolum, the ruins of which are so immense, is in North, not South America, in the same latitude with the island of Jamaica, which is about eighteen degrees north of the equator, being on the highest ground between the northern end of the Caribbean sea and the Pacific ocean, where the continent narrows towards the isthmus of Darien, and is about eight hundred miles south of New Orleans. The discovery of these ruins, and also of many others, equally wonderful, in the same country, is just commencing to arouse the attention of the schools of Europe, who hitherto have denied that America could boast of her antiquities. But these immense ruins are now being explored under the direction of scientific per- sons, a history of which, in detail, will be forthcoming doubtless, in due time; two volumes of which, in manuscript, we are in- formed, have already been written, and cannot but be received with enthusiasm by Americans. By those deeply versed in the antiquities of past ages, it is contended that the first people who settled America came directly from Chaldea, immediately after the confusion of language at Ba- bel. — [See Description of the Ruins of the American City, published in London, 1832, p. 33, by Dr. Paul Felix Cabrera.) Whoever the authors of the city may have been, we seem to find, in their sculptured deities, the idolatry of even the Phoenicians, a people whose history goes back nearly to the flood, or to within a hun- dred and fifty years of that period. It appears from some of the historical works of the Mexicans, written in pictures, which fell into the hands of the Spaniards, that there was found one which was written by Votan, who sets himself forth to be the third Gentile, (reckoning from the flood or RUINS OF OTOLUM. 287 family of Noah,) and lord of the Tapanahuasec, or tlie sacred drum. In the book above alluded to, Votan says that he saw the great house which was built by his grandfather, meaning the tower of Babel, which went up from the earth to the sky. In one of those picture books, the account is given by the Indian historian, who- ever he was, or at whatever time he lived, that Yotan had writ- ten it himself. He gives the account that he made no less than four voyages to this continent, conducting with him at one time seven families. He says that others of his family had gone away before himself, and that he was determined to travel till he should come to the root, of heaven, the sky, (in the west,) in order to dis- cover his relations the Culebras, or Snake people, and calls himself Culebra, (a snake,) and that he found them, and became their cap- tain. He mentions the name of the town which his relation had built at first, which was Tczeqiiil. Agreeing with this account, it is found by exploring the ruins of this city, and its sculptures, that among a multitude of strange representations are found two which represent this Votan, on both continents. The continents are shown by being painted in two parallel squares, and standing on each is this Votan, showing his acquaintance with each of them. The pictures engraven on the stones which form the sides "of the houses or temples of this ruined city, are a series of hieroglyphics, which show, beyond all doubt, that the era of its construction, and of the people who built it, excels in antiquity those of the ancient Greeks, the Ro- mans, and the most celebrated nations of the old world, and is worthy of being compared even with the first progenitors of the Hebrews themselves, after the flood. — {See History of Amencart City, as before quoted, p. 39.) It is found that the gods of the ancient Egyptians, even Osiris, Apis, and Isis, are sculptured on the stones of this city, the wor- ship of which passed from Egypt to many nations, and is found under many forms, but all traceable to the same original. We have examined the forms of the figures cut on the side of the fa- mous Obelisk of seventy-two feet in height, brought not long since from Egypt, by the French government, and erected in Paris ; and have compared them with some of the sculptured forms of 288 RUINS OF OTOLUM. men, found on the stones of this city, in Avhich there is an exact correspondence in one remarkable particular. On the obelisk is represented a king or god seated on a throne, holding in one hand a rod grasped in its middle, having on its top the figure of a small bird. The arm holding this is extended toward a person who is rest- ing on one knee before him, and offers from each of his hands that which is either food, drink, or incense, to the one on the throne. The head ornaments are of the most fantastic construc- tion. The same without variation is cut in the stones of the ruined American city in many places ; with this difference only, the American sculpture is much larger, as if representing gigan- tic beings, but is of the same character. Can we have a better proof than this, that Egy^ptian colonies have reached America in the very first ages of the world after the flood, or some people having the notions, the religion, and the arts of the Egyptians, and such were the most ancient people of Canaan, the Hivites, Perizzites, and Hitites, which names denote all these nations as serpent worshippers. As it respects the true founders of this city, the discovery and contents of which are now causing so great and general interest in both this country and Europe, it is ascertained in the most direct and satisfactory way, in the work to which we have just alluded, published in London, 1832, on the subject of this city, that they were the ancient Hivites, one of the nations which in- habited Palestine, or Canaan, a remnant of which, it is ascertain- ed, fled into the Idngdom of Tyre, and there settled, and into Africa, to avoid annihilation by the wars of Joshua, the captain of the Jews ; and that among them was one who acted as a lead- er, and was called Votan, and that he sailed from a port in an- cient Tyre, which before it was known by that name, was called Chivim, and that this Yotan was the third in the Gentile descent from Noah, and that he made several voyages to and from Ameri- ca. But the kingdom which was founded by Votan, was finally destroyed by other nations, and their works, their cities and towns, turned into a wilderness, as they are now found to be. (The word Hivite, which distingTjished one of the nations of old Ca- RUINS OF OTOLUM. 289 naan in the time of Joshua, signifies the same thing in the Phoe- nician language, Serpent people or worshippers.) The Hivites, it appears, were the ancestors of the Moors, who spread them- selves all along the western coast of Africa, at an early period, and in later times they overran the country of Spain, till the Ro- mans supplanted them ; who in their turn were supplanted by the northern nations of Germany, the Goths, &c. The Moors were not the proper Africans, as the hair of their heads was long, straight, and shining. They were a different race, and of different manners and attainments. The contour of the faces of the au- thors of the American city, found sculptured on the stones of its ruins, are in exact correspondence with the forehead and nose of the ancient Moors, the latter of which was remarkable for its aqui- line shape, and was a national trait, characteristic of the Moors as well as the Romans. When the Spaniards overran Peru, which lies on the western side of South America, on the coast of the Pacific were found statues, obelisks, mausolea, edifices, fortresses, all of stone, equal with the architecture of Egypt, Greece, and Rome, six hundred years before the Christian era. Roads were cut through the Cor- dillera mountains ; gold, silver, copper, and lead mines, were opened and worked to a great extent ; all of which is evidence of their knowledge of architecture, mineralogy, and agriculture. In many places of that country are found the ruins of noble aque- ducts, some of which, says Dr. Morse, the geographer, would have been thought works of difficulty in civilized nations. Seve- ral pillars of stone are now standing, which were erected to point out the equinoxes and solstices. In their sepulchres were found paintings, vessels of gold and silver, implements of warfare, hus- bandry, &c. To illustrate the architectural knowledge of the Peruvians, as well as of some other provinces of South America, we quote the following from Baron Humboldt's Researches, 1st vol. Eng. Trans., Amer. ed., p. 255 : — " The remains of Peruvian architecture are scattered along the ridge of the Cordilleras, from Cuzco to Cajarabe, or from the 13th degree of north latitude to the equator, a distance of nearly a thousand miles. What an em- pire, and what works are these, which all bear the same charac- 19 290 RUINS OF OTOLUM. ter in the cut of tlie stones, the shape of the doors to their stone buildings, the symmetrical disposal of the niches, and the total absence of exterior ornaments ! This uniformity of construction is so great, that all the stations along the high road, called in that country palaces of the Incas, or Icings of the Peruvians, appear to have been copied from each other ; simplicity, symmetry, and solidity, were the three characters by which the Peruvian edifices were distinguished. The citadel of Cannar, and the square build- ing surrounding it, are not constructed with the same quartz sand- stone which covers the primitive slate, and the porphyries of As- suay ; and which appears at the surface, in the garden of the Inca, as we descend toward the valley of Gulan ; but of trappean porphyry, of great hardness, enclosing nitrous feldspar and horn- blende. This porphyry was perhaps dug in the great quarries which are found at 4000 meters in height, (which is 13,000 feet and a fraction, making two and a third miles in perpendicular height,) near the lake of Culebrilla, or Serpent lake, ten miles from Cannar. To cut the stones for the buildings of Cannar, at so great a height, and to bring them down and transport them ten miles, is equal with any of the works of the ancients, who built the cities of Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Stabia, long before the Christian era. " We do not find, however," says Humboldt, " in the ruins of Cannar, those stones of enormous size, which Ave see in the Pe- ruvian edifices of Cuzco and the neighboring countries. Acostg^ he says, measured some at Traquanaco, which were twelve meters (thirty-eight feet) long, and five meters eight tenths (eighteen feet) broad, and one metre nine tenths (six feet) thick." The stones made use of in building the temple of Solomon were but a trifle larger than these, some of which were twenty-five cubits (forty-three feet nine inches) long, tAvelve cubits (twenty-nine feet) wide, and eight cubits (fourteen feet) thick, reckoning twenty-one inches to the cubit." ^ " One of the temples of ancient Egypt is now, in its state of ruin, a mile and a half in circiunference. It has twelve principal entrances. The body of the temple consists of a prodigious hall or portico ; the roof is supported by 134 columns. Four beauti- RUINS OF OTOLUM. 291 ful obelisks mark the entrance to the shrine, a place of sacrifice, which contains three apartments, built entirely of granite. The temple of Luxor probably surpasses in beauty and splendor all the other ruins of Egypt. In front are two of ih.p. finest obelisks in the world ; they are of rose-colored marble, one hundred feet high. But the objects which most attract attention, are the sculp tures which cover the whole of the northern front. They con- tain, on a great scale, a representation of a victory gained by one of the ancient kings of Egypt over an enemy. The number of hu- man figures cut in the solid stone amounts to fifteen hundred ; of these, five hundred are on foot, and one thousand in chariots. Such are the remains of a city which perished long before the records of ancient history had a being." — MuUe-Brun. We are compelled to ascribe some of the vast operations of the ancient nations of this country, to those ages which correspond with the times and manners of the people of Egypt, which are also beyond the reach of authentic history. It should be recol- lected that the fleets of king Hiram navigated the seas in a sur- prising manner, seeing they had not, as is supposed, (but not proved,) a knowledge of the magnetic needle ; and in some voyage out of the Mediterranean, into the Atlantic, they may have been driven to South America ; where having found a courjtry rich in all the resources of nature, more so than even their native country, they founded a kingdom, built cities, cultivated fields, marshalled armies, made roads, built aqueducts, became rich, magnificent, and powerful, as the vastness and extent of the rains of Peru, and other provinces of South America, plainly show. Humboldt says, that he saw at Pullal three houses made of stone, which were built by the Incas, (kings,) each of which was more than fifty meters, or a hundred and fifty feet long, laid in a cement, or trae mortar. This fact, he says, deserves attentiori, because travellers who had preceded him had unanimously over- looked this circumstance, asserting that the Peruvians were un- acquainted with the use of mortar, but this is erroneous. The Peru- vians not only employed a mortar in the great edifices of Pacari- tambo, but made use of a cement of asphaltum ; a mode of con- struction which, on the banks of the Euphrates and the Tigris, 292 ANCIENT LANGUAGES OF AMERICA. may be traced back to the remotest antiquity. The tools made use off to cut their stone were of copper, hardened with tin, the same metal used among the Greeks and Romans, and other nations. To show the genius and enterprise of the natives of Mexico, before America was last discovered, we give the following as but a single instance : Montezuma, the last king but one of Mexico, A. D. 1446, forty-six years before the discovery of America by Columbus, erected a dike to prevent the overflowing of the wa- ters of certain small lakes in the vicinity of their city, which had several times deluged it. This dike consisted of a bank of stones and clay, supported on each side by a range of palisadoes ; ex- tending in its whole length about seventy miles, and sixty-five feet broad, its whole length sufficiently high to intercept the over- flowings of the lakes in times of high water, occasioned by the spring floods. In Holland, the Dutch have resorted to the same means to prevent incursions of the sea ; and the longest of the many is but forty miles in extent, nearly one half short of the Mexican dike. "Amidst the extensive plains of Upper Canada, in Florida, near the gulf of Mexico, and in the deserts bordered by the Orinoco, in Colombia, dikes of a considerable length, weapons of brass, and sculptured stones, are found, which are the indications that those countries were formerly inhabited by in- dustrious nations, which are now traversed only by tribes of sa- vage hunters." — [Priest.] ANCIENT LANGUAGES OF THE FIRST INHABIT- ANTS OF AMERICA. Letter to M. ChampolUon, on the Graphic Systems of America, and the Glyphs of Otolum or Palenque, in Central America. — By C. S. Rafinesque. You have become celebrated by deciphering, at last, the glyphs and characters of the ancient Egyptians, which all your learned predecessors had deemed a riddle, and pronounced impossible to ANCIENT LANGUAGES OF AMERICA. 293 read. You first announced your discovery in a letter. I am goiuir to follow your footsteps on another continent, and a theme equally obscure ; to none but yourself can I address with more propriety letters on a subject so much alike in purpose and importance, and so similar to your own labors. I shall not enter at present into any very elaborate discussion. I shall merely detail, in a concise manner, the object and result of my inquiries, so as to assert my claim to a discovery of some importance in a philological and historical point of view : which was announced as early as 1828 in some journals (three letters to Mr. M'CuUoch on the American nations), but not properly illus- trated. Their full development would require a volume, like that of yours on the Egyptian antiquities, and may follow this perhaps at some future time. It may be needful to prefix the following principles as guides to my researches, or results of my inquiries : — 1 . America has been the land of false systems ; all those made in Europe on it are more or less vain and erroneous. 2. The Americans were equal in antiquity, civilization, and sciences, to the nations of Africa and Europe — like them, the children of the Asiatic nations. 3. It is false that no American nations had systems of writing, glyphs, and letters. Several had various modes of perpetuating ideas. 4. There were several such graphic systems in America to ex- press ideas, all of which find equivalents in the east continent. 5. They may be ranged in twelve series, proceeding from the most simple to the most complex. 1st Series. — Pictured symbols or glyphs of the Toltecas, Az- tecas, Huaztecas, Skeres, Panos, &c. ; similar to the first sym- bols of the Chinese, invented by Tien-hoang, before the flood and earliest Egyptian glj-phs. 2d Series. — Outlines of figures or abridged symbols and glyphs, expressing words or ideas, used by almost all the nations of North and South America, even the most rude ; similar to the second kind of Egyptian symbols, and the tortoise letters brought to China bv the Longma (dragon and horse) nation of barbarous horsemen, under Sui-sin. 294 ANCIENT LANGUAGES OF AMERICA. 3d Series. — Qnipos or knots on strings used by the Peruvians and several other South American nations ; similar to the third kind of Chinese glyphs introduced under Yong-Ching, and used ilso by many nations of Africa. 4th Series. — Wampums, or strings of shells and beads, used by many nations of North America ; similar to those used by some ancient or rude nations in all parts of the world, as tokens of ideas. 5th Series. — Runic glyphs or ntarks, and notches on twigs or lines, used by several nations of North America : consimilar to the Runic glyphs of the Celtic and Teutonic nations. 6lh Series. — Runic marks arid dots, or graphic symbols, not on strings nor lines, but in rows^ expressing words or ideas ; used by the ancient nations of North America and Mexico, this Talegas, Aztecas, Natchez, Po\vhatans, Tuscarotas, Sic, and also the Mu- hizcas of South America ; similar to the ancient symbols of the Etruscans, Egyptians,' Celts, &c., and the Ho-tu of the Chinese, invented I:)y Tsang-hie, called also the Ko-teu-chu letters, which Were in use in China till 827 before our era. Ith Series. — Alphabetical symbols, expressing syllables or sounds, not words, but grouped, and the groups disposed in rows ; such is the graphic system of the monuments of Otolum, near Palei.que, the American Thebes ; consimilar to the groups of alphabetical symbols used by the ancient Libyans, Egyptians, Persians, and also the last graphic system of the Chinese, called Ventze, invented by Sse-hoavg. 8tJi Series. — Cursive symbols in groups, and the groups in parallel rows, derived from the last (which are chiefly monumen- tal), and used iii the manuscrifits of the Mayans, Guatemalans, &c. ; consimilar to the actual cursive Chinese, soirle demotic Egyptian, and many modifications of ancient graphic alphabets, grouping the letters or syllables. 9th Series. — Syllabic letters, expressing syllables, not simple sounds, and disposed in rows. Such is the late syllabic alphabet of the Cherokees, and many graphic inscriptions found in North and South America. Similar to the syllabic alphabets of Asia, Africa, and Polynesia. ANCIENT LANGUAGES OF AMERICA. 295 10th Series. — Alphabets, or graphic letters, expressing simple sounds, and disposed in rows. Found in many inscriptions, medals, and coins in North and South America, and lately intro- duced everj'where by the European colonists ; similar to the alphabets of Asia, Africa, and Europe. lltk Series. — Abbreviations, or letters standing for whole words, or part of a glyph and graphic delineation, standing and expressing the whole ; used by almost all the writing nations of North and South America, as well as Asia, Europe, and Africa. 12th Series. — Numeric system of graphic signs, to express numbers. All the various kinds of signs, such as dots, lines, strokes, circles, glyphs, letters, &c., used by some nations of North and South America, as well as in the eastern continent. Some years ago, the Society of Geograph}^, of Paris, offered a large premium for a voyage to Guatemala, and a new survey of the antiquities of Yucatan and Chiapa, chiefly those fifteen miles from Palenque, which are wrongly called by that name. I have restored to them the true name of Otolum, which is yet the name of the stream running through the ruins. I should have been inclined to undertake this voyage and exploration myself, if the civil discords of the country did not forbid it. My attention was drawn forcibly to this subject as soon as the account of those ruins, surveyed by Captain Del Rio as early as 1787, but withheld from the public eye by Spain, was published in 1822, in English. This account, which partly describes the ruins of a stone city seventy-five miles in circuit (length thirtytwo English miles, greatest breadth twelve miles), full of palaces, monuments, statues, and inscriptions — one of the earliest seats of American civiliza- tion, about equal to Thebes of Eg)'pt — was well calculated to inspire me with hopes that they would throw a great light over American history, when more properly examined. I have been disappointed in finding that no traveller has dared to penetrate again to that recondite place, and illustrate all the ruins and monuments, with the languages yet spoken all around. The Societ}' of Geography has received many additional accounts, de- rived fram documents preserved in Mexico ; but they have not 296 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF MEXICO; been deemed worthy of the reward offered for a new survey, and have not even been published. The same has happened with Tiahuanaco, in Bolivia, in South America, another mass of an- cient ruins, and a mine of historical knowledgej which no late traveller has visited or described. Being, therefore, without hope of any speedy accession to out knowledge of those places, I have been compelled to work upon the materials now extant^ which have happily enabled me to do a great deal, notwithstanding all their defects^ and throw some light on that part of the history of America. Philadelphia, January, 1832. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF MEXICO. From Clavigero, Storia del Messico — from Solis, Boturinij Herrera, Bernal Dias, and other authors^ we learn the state of the arts in Mexico prior to the invasion of the Spaniards ; the progress made by that people in science ; the form of their gov- ernment, and of their hierarchy : and from the simple and unaf- fected narrative of Cortez, contained in his letters to Charles the Fifth, we may gather pretty accurate knowledge of their resources, and of the number and character of the population. Some idea may be formed of the civilization of a people, by the nature of their government, their civil institutions, and the laws by which they are governed. In Mexico, the monarch was elected from among the members of the reigning family, by six electors, chosen from among the thirty princes of the first rank. The po- litical system was feudal. The first class of nobles, consisting of thirty families, had each one hundred thousand vassals. There were more than three thousand families in the second class. The vassals were serfs attached to the soil, over whom the lord exer- cised the right of life and death. All the lands were divided into allodial, hereditary, and contingent estates — the latter depending upon places in the gift of the crown. The priests were charged with the education of the youth ; and mSTORICAL SKETCH OF MEXICO. 297 on their testimony of the merit of their scholars, depended their future rank. Each province was subject to a tribute, except cer- tain nobles who were compelled to take the field, in case of a war, with a stated number of followers. The tribute was paid in kind, and was fixed at one thirtieth part of the crop. Besides which, the governors of provinces vied with each other in the magnificence of the presents which they sent to the emperor. In the quarto edition of Lorenzano, there are plates of the figures, by means of which the receivers and administrators kept an account of the tribute due by each province. There was an Octroi upoii provisions, levied in every city. Posts were established between the capital and the remotest prov- inces of the empire. Sacrilege, treason, and murder-, were punished with death ; and Cortez protests that the Mexicans respected the laws of the empire fully as much as the Spaniards did those of Spain. The emperor was served with great magnificence and Asiatic pomp. The attention of the government was principally directed toward the internal commerce, so as to secure an abundant supply to the people. A court of ten magistrates detertnined the validity of contracts ; and officers were constantly employed to examine the measures and the quality of the goods exposed for sale. Under Montezuma, the government was despotic, and, in his turn, he was governed by the high-priest. It will be recollected that at the last siege of the capital, when the emperor and his council had resolved to accept any terms rather than prolong a hopeless contest, the high-priest opposed them and broke off the treaty. Besides the empire of the Mexicans, there were other power- ful states, whose form of government was republican ; and Cortez compared them to the republics of Pisa, Venice, and Genoa. I must refer the reader to Clavigero and Lorenzano, for the history of Tlascala, the most powerful of those states, the government of which existed some time after the conquest of Mexico. 298 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF MEXICO. Tlascala was a thickly-settled, fertile, and populous country^ divided into several districts, under the authority of a chief. These chiefs administered justice, levied the tribute, and confi- manded the military forces ; but their decrees were not valid, or of force, until confirmed by the senate of Tlascala, which was the true sovereign. A certain number of citizens, chosen from the different districts by popular assemblies, formed this legislative body. The senate elected its own chief. The laws were strictly and impartially executed ; and Cortez represents this people as numerous, wealthy, and warlike. The Mexicans possessed some knowledge of astronomy, and their calendar was constructed with more exactness than that of the Greeks, the Romans, or the Egyptians. Their hieroglyphic drawings and maps — their cities and artificial roads, causeways, canals, and immense pyramids — their government and hierarchy, and administration of laws — their knowledge of the art of mining, and of preparing metals for armament and use — their skill in carving images out of the hardest stone — in manufactur- ing and dyeing cloths, and the perfection of their agriculture, inspire us with a high opinion of the civilization of the Mexicans at the time of the conquest : especially when we take into con- sideration the period when they are described to have reached this state of excellence in the arts and sciences. We ought always to bear iti mind the state of Europe at the same period, before the Reformation, and before the discovery of the art of printing. Cortez compares Mexico with Spain, and frequently to the advantage of the former. The only circumstance wanting to have rendered their state of society m.ore perfect than that of Spain, appears to have been a more pure religion, and the use of animals for domestic purposes. The peasants were compelled to carry heavy loads, like beasts of burden ; and in their religious vi^orship the most shocking su- perstition prevailed. Their altars were frequently stained with the blood of human sacrifices. We cannot judge of the character of the population, prior to the conquest, by the Indians we now see. The priests, Avho pos- HISTORICAL SKETCH OF MEXICO. 299 sessed all the learning, were destroyed ; the princes and nobles were deprived of their property, and in fact reduced to a level with the lowest class ; and the serfs, who are, and always have been ah oppressed and degraded people, are alone to represent the former Mexicans. Humboldt says, that " it is difficult to appreciate, justly, the moral character of the native Mexicans, if we consider this caste, which has so long sufliered under a barbarous tyranny, only in its present state of degradation. At the commencement of the Span- ish conquest, the wealthy Indians, for the most part, perished, victims of the ferocity of the Europeans. Christian fanaticism persecuted the x\ztec priests ; they exterminated the Teopixqui, or ministers of the Divinity, all who inhabited the teocalli, or tem- ples, and who could be regarded as depositaries of historical, my- thological, and astronomical knowledge. The monks burnt the hieroglyphic paintings, by which knowledge of every sort was transmitted from generation to generation. Deprived of these means of instruction, the people relapsed into a state of ignorance so much the more profound, that the missionaries, little skilled in the Mexican languages, substituted few new ideas for the ancient. The Indian women, who preserved some fortune, preferred allying themselves with the conquerors, to partaking the contempt enter- tained for the Indians. There remained, therefore, of the natives, none but the most indigent, the poor cultivators, mechanics, por- ters, who were used as beasts of burden — and, above all, the dregs of the people, that crowd of beggars, which marked the im- perfection of the social institutions and the feudal yoke, and who, even in the time of Cortez, filled the streets of the great cities of Mexico. How, then, shall we judge from these miserable re- mains of a powerful people, either of the degree of civilization to which it had reached, from the twelfth to the sixteenth century, or of the intellectual development of which it is sus- ceptible ?" Shortly after Cortez landed his small army at Vera Cruz, he received messengers from Montezuma, bringing with them pre- sents to a considerable amount, and entreating the Spanish com- mander not to march further into the country. The sight of this 300 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF MEXICO. display of wealth stimulated the cupidity of the Spaniards, and confirmed Cortez in his determination to penetrate to the capital. In his route he had to contend against the republic of Tlascala, a nation continually involved in war with the empire of Mexico. Cortez vanquished the republicans in two battles, and, after com- pelling them to make peace, he found no difficulty in enlisting them against Montezuma. Six thousand Tlascalans were added to his European troops as auxiliaries, and he continued his march upon the capital of the empire in the guise of friendship. As he advanced, he continued to augment his forces by treaties with other nations or tribes, which were inimical to Montezuma ; and with a European force of five hundred infantry and fifteen horse- men, and a large army of Indians, he reached the city of Tenoch- titlan on the 8th of November, 1519. The emperor received him \vith a degree of magnificence that excited the astonishment of the Spaniards. The whole aritiy was lodged and entertained sump- tuously, and Cortez himself received presents to a great amount. Some of these he enumerates to Charles the Fifth, in order to give him an idea of the riches and ingenuity of this extraordinary people. It is not surprising, that at the sight of so much wealth, Cortez should form the wish to become possessed of it. He soon ac- quired an ascendency over the timid Mexicans, and Montezuma found that in admitting an armed and powerful friend into the heart of his capital, he had delivered himself and his people into the hands of a ferocious enemy. The Mexican general, Qualpopoca, who had committed some hostilities upon the colony left by the Spaniards at Vera Cruz, was, on the demand of Cortez, delivered up to him, bound hand and foot, and by his order was burnt alive. Soon after this barbarous act, he contrived to get possession of the person of Montezuma, and detained him prisoner. But what, perhaps, irritated the people more even than this violation of the person of the emperor, was the contempt with which their religious rites and idols were treated by the Spaniards. The arrival of Narvaez on the coast, with a large force, de- spatched by Velasco to deprive Cortez of the command, compelled HISTORICAL SKETCH OF MEXICO. 301 the latter to leave Alvarado in command of the force at Tenochtit- lan, and to march against this unexpected enemy. His departure from the capital was the signal for the people to manifest the hos- tile feeling they had long indulged toward the Spaniards. They took up arms against them, biurnt the vessels which Cortez had constructed to command the lake, and laid siege to the building in which the Spaniards were lodged. At this period Cortez returned, after having surprised and van quished Narvaez, By this action he acquired a great accession of force ; and he is said to have had, after his arrival at the capi- tal, one thousand infantry and one hundred horse. The siege was prosecuted with vigor and determination on the part of the natives, and the place defended with equal obstinacy and valor on the part of the Spaniards. Montezuma, who had ascended the ter- race to address his subjects and to quell the insurrection, was killed by a stone or arrow, and his brother Quetlavaca pro- claimed his successor. This gave renewed vigor to the Mexi- cans, and Cortez was compelled to retreat. His own account of his flight, in one of his letters, is well worth reading. The night of this disastrous retreat was called La Noche triste, the melan- choly night. Cortez continued to retreat upon Tlascala, the Mexicans pur- suing and harassing his rear. At Otumba, he was obliged to turn and give them battle. He describes his own troops as worn out with fatigue, but says that the enemy were so numerous that they could neither fight nor fly ; and that the slaughter continued the whole day, until one of their principal chiefs was killed, which put an end to the battle and to the war. He reached Tlascala without further trouble, with the remnant of his forces, and was well received by his old allies. He was urged by his officers, and by the garrison of Vera Cruz, to retire to the coast, but refused to abandon the conquest of Mexico ; and, in order to maintain the ascendency he had acquired over the people of Tlascala, he made incursions into the territo- ries of the neighboring nations, whence he always returned victo- rious, and loaded with spoil. In December, 1521, he again marched upon Tenochtitlan, and 302 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF MEXICO. took up his quarters in Tezcuco. From this place he carried on the war against the Mexicans and their allies, until the arrival of the frames of thirteen small vessels, which he had ordered to be constructed in Tlascala. They were brought by such a multitude of Indians, Cortez says, that " from the time the first began to enter the city until the last finished, more than six hours elapsed." In order to launch these brigantines, as he calls them, a canal of half a mile in length was cut from the lake, of such ample dimen- sions, that eight thousand Indians worked every day at it, for fifty days, before it was completed. On reviewing his troops, after the vessels were on the lake, he found that he had eighty-six horsemen, one hundred and eighteen fusiliers, and upward of seven hundred infantry, armed with swords and bucklers, three large iron field-pieces, and fifteen small ones of bronze, with ten quintals of powder. He does not give the number of Indians then with him, but on the following day he despatched messengers to Tlascala and other provinces, to inform these people that he was ready to proceed against Te- nochtitlan. In consequence of this advice, the captains of Tlas- cala arrived with their forces, well appointed and well armed ; and, according to their report, they amounted to upward of fifty thousand. He divided his forces into three corps : one, consisting of thirty horsemen, eighteen fusiliers, and one hundred and fifty infantry, • armed with sword and buckler, and twenty-five thousand Tlasca- lans, was commanded by Pedro de Alvarado, and was to occupy Tacuba. Another, commanded by Christoval Olid, consisted of thirty-three horsemen, eighteen fusiliers, and one hundred and seventy infantry, armed Avith sword and buckler, together with upward of twenty thousand Indians, was to take possession of Cuyoacan. The third division was intrusted to Gonzalo de San- doval ; it amoimted to twenty-four horsemen, fifteen fusiliers, and one hundred and fifty infantry, armed with sword and buckler, with thirty thousand Indians. This division was to march upon Iztapalapan, destroy that town, and then, under cover of the ves- sels, form a junction with that of Olid. Cortez himself com- manded the fleet. As soon as they reached their several destina- HISTORICAL SKETCH OF MEXICO. 303 tions, Alvarado and Olid destroyed the ae]iieducts, and cut off the supply of water from the city. After a siege of seventy-five days, during which both parties displayed the most obstinate courage, the besieged, reduced to the last extremity by disease and famine, made an attempt to evacuate the city by water. They were pursued by the light squadron of the Spaniards ; and the canoe which carried the person of the emperor was captured by Garcia Holgiun, This capture put an end to the war. When Gautimotzin, who had succeeded to the throne on the death of his uncle, was brought before Cortez, on the terrace where he was standing, and which overlooked the lake — he advanced, says Cortez, toward me, and said that he had done everything which his duty required, to defend himself and his subjects, until he was reduced to this state, and that I mi^ht now do with him what I thought proper ; and put his hand on a dagger that I wore, telling me to stab him. The siege was commenced on the 30th of May, 1521, and ter- minated on the 1 3th of August ; and Cortez says, that during these seventy-five days, not one passed without some combat between the besieged and the Spaniards , The captured Mexicans were divided among the conquerors ; and Cortez informs the emperor that he had preserved his share of the gold and silver, and his fifth of the slaves, and other things, which by right belonged to his Majesty — and as slaves they con- tinued to be treated for centuries, notwithstanding the humane laws passed in Spain for their relief. It would be tedious and unprofitable to trace the colonial history of Mexico from the conquest to the revolution. From great natu- ral advantages, tliis country has become rich and powerful, in spite of a most impolitic colonial system. In justice to the gov- ernment of Spain, it must be acknowledged that the laws of the Indies were wise and just, and the regidations relating to the poor Indians framed in the very spirit of humanity ; but their adminis- tration was bad, and the Creoles were oppressed by their European masters — and, in their turn, harassed and oppressed the unfortu- nate natives. Almost the only bright spot in the page of this his- tory, is the period of the administration of the viceroy Revilla- 304 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF MEXICO. gigedo. Good roads, leading from the capital to different parts of the kingdom, were laid out and constructed by his orders ; and the streets of the principal cities were paved and lighted, and a good police established. The only authentic statistical account of this country was made out at this period ; and almost every salutary law or regulation now in existence may be traced to the administration of Revillagigedo. The immediate capses of the revolution of the Spanish colonies are too generally known to require any further explanation. The invasion of Spain by Napoleon only accelerated a revolution, toward which the Americans were slowly but irresistibly impelled by the conduct of the mother country, and by the political events of the age. — [Poinsett,] THE END, w :^i3' LIBRARY OF CONGRESS llllllllllllillllllllllllllllllllllillllllllllllllll 015 991 811 7