Cheese Makim Cheddar Swiss Brick Edam Limburger Cottage, etc. DECKER Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/cheesemaking01deck CHEESE MAKING CHEDDAR, SWISS, BRICK, LIMBURGER, EDAM, COTTAGE, ETC. BY JOHN W. DECKER, B.Agr. LATE PROFESSOR OF DAIRYING, OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY FIFTH REVISED EDITION BY F. W. WOLL, Ph.D. PROFESSOR OF AGRICULTURAL CHEMISTRY, UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN ILLUSTRATED MADISON, WIS. MENDOTA BOOK COMPANY 1909 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED o> a "3 P5 a; q P5 >1 Q P3 32 37 36 48 37 38 48 47 93 33 34 4i 52 37 38 55 62 38 39 45 51 40 35 59 43 39 70 40 58 38 30 36 68 40 77 46 41 65 39 36 37 76 41 85 42 72 40 42 38 84 42 92 43 79 41 48 39 92 44 45 85 93 49 42 43 54 60 32 34 29 36 44 45 67 73 31 35 33 H8 36 ' 43 36 37 38 39 28 34 40 46 46 80 34 46 37 49 47 86 41 35 ^ 36 53 60 44 38 39 56 63 48 93 37 38 39 40 68 76 84 92 40 41 42 43 70 78 85 92 47 40 41 42 43 44 52 59 66 72 79 39 40 41 42 32 37 43 49 43 55 33 33 35 31 .45 86 50 44 61 34 40 36 37 46 93 45 67 35 36 47 54 37 44 46 74 0/ 38 50 47 80 42 37 61 39 57 37 29 48 87 38 69 45 40 64 38 35 49 93 39 40 77 84 41 42 71 78 39 40 41 47 41 92 43 85 48 41 53 40 33 44 92 42 43 60 66 51 41 42 39 45 33 28 44 73 43 50 43 34 34 35 26 45 79 44 56 35 41 46 36 32 46 86 45 62 Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 99 5* ^ a ^ ^ g ^ si s ji £" a 3 pq 3 W 3 W 3 3 3 pq 3 3 W 3 3 K >, ~ .^ OJ ,-; >> O) ^* >> CD ^ « Q ^ 0^ P ^ P^ fl ^ P3 46 68 48 59 49 47 51 42 47 74 49 65 50 52 62 46 51 48 81 50 70 51 57 58 51 49 87 55 51 76 52 62 64 66 50 93 52 82 59 53 67 66 60 53 88 54 72 68 66 64 41 42 35 40 54 94 55 78 57 69 56 57 83 89 58 69 74 79 43 44 45 46 51 44 45 34 39 58 94 60 61 84 89 57 46 44 62 95 52 46 47 63 69 47 48 50 55 48 39 49 44 48 49 50 51 75 81 87 94 56 49 50 51 52 53 60 65 71 77 82 60 50 51 52 53 54 48 53 58 68 68 52 58 64 66 56 48 47 51 66 60 41 42 31 36 54 55 88 94 55 56 57 73 78 84 64 67 58 59 66 70 74 43 41 44 47 45 36 58 89 60 79 45 52 46 40 59 94 61 86 46 58 63 47 48 45 50 62 90 53 47 68- 95 48 49 69 75 49 50 55 61 49 60 40 44 50 81 57 51 66 51 49 68 44 51 87 52 71 52 64 54 48 52 94 53 77 53 58 66 62 54 55 83 88 61 54 55 68 68 56 67 66 61 42 32 56 94 56 78 65 68 65 43 37 57 78 59 70 44 42 58 84 60 75 45 48 46 37 59 89 61 80 46 53 47 42 60 94 62 84 54 47 48 59 64 48 49 46 51 63 64 90 95 49 50 70 76 50 51 56 61 50 51 41 46 51 82 58 52 67 52 50 63 40 52 88 53 72 58 64 64 45 53 94 54 78 54 59 65 49 55 56 83 89 62 55 56 64 69 66 56 57 63 67 43 33 57 94 57 74 58 61 55 44 45 38 43 " 58 59 79 84 59 60 66 71 46 49 59 ^^ oy 48 38 60 89 61 76 47 54 43 61 1 96 62 80 100 Cheese Making. "5 3 a 3 9 9 a 3 9 a 3 4 9 a n M w w m W FP W W M m K P3 p "3 P3 R Pi P5 63 85 61 60 73 72 95 70 71 66 64 65 90 95 62 63 64 68 71 72 74 78 64 72 61 62 47 50 77 73 83 70 65 77 74 87 54 41 66 81 63 54 75 91 55 45 67 86 64 58 76 95 56 49 68 90 65 62 57 53 69 95 66 66 58 59 58 62 74 67 68 70 74 65 66 49 53 67 60 66 58 45 69 78 67 56 61 71 59 48 70 82 68 60 62 76 60 52 71 86 69 63 63 80 61 56 72 91 78 70 67 64 85 62 60 73 95 71 71 65 90 63 64 72 75 66 94 71 64 68 62 47 73 79 65 72 63 64 51 55 74 83 55 42 66 77 75 87 56 46 67 81 65 58 76 91 57 58 50 68 86 66 62 54 69 91 67 66 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 58 63 67 71 76 81 85 90 70 95 75 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 70 74 78 82 87 91 95 79 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 50 53 68 59 60 61 62 63 64 45 49 53 57 61 65 57 60 64 68 71 75 ■ 79 67 95 72 65 69 63 64 48 52 75 83 66 73 76 87 56 43 67 77 65 55 77 91 57 58 47 51 68 69 82 86 66 67 59 63 59 55 70 91 68 66 66 47 60 59 71 95 76 69 70 67 51 61 62 63 64 65 63 67 72 76 81 70 71 72 73 74 74 78 82 87 91 68 69 70 71 72 54 69 60 61 62 46 50 53 57 61 65 69 73 78 57 61 64 68 66 67 68 86 90 95 73 63 64 65 66 67 68 75 95 80 73 74 75 76 72 75 64 65 66 49 52 79 83 57 44 56 77 78 87 92 58 48 69 82 77 67 60 79 96 70 59 52 70 86 68 63 60 55 71 91 69 67 Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 101 200. Condition of the Curing Room Air. The air should have as much moisture as it will hold without molding the cheese. Cheese will stand a good deal if the air is kept moving, perhaps as high as ninety per cent. If kept between sixty and seventy per cent it is very fair, but the DETRinENTAL HAZARDOUS SAFE < Fig. 51. — Recorded temperature in an ordinary cheese curing room (curve B), and the same in a cellar cheese curing room (curve A). instruments show that the relative humidity in American cur- ing rooms often gets down to twenty or thirty per cent and the cheese then will dry out rapidly and crack. 201. Supplying Moisture. Moisture can be supplied by sprinkling the floor, or better still, by hanging up wet sheets that are constantly supplied with water. To supply a curing room of five thousand cubic feet capa- city, at least three cloths thirty inches wide by twelve feet long are needed. These cloths cannot be supplied from a tank by means of wicks, but if there is plenty of running water a pipe with fine holes drilled on the upper side might be arranged on which to hang the cloths; water run through the pipe will keep the cloths saturated. A gutter should be arranged at the bottom to carry off the surplus water. 102 Cheese Making. After a while the cloths will get stiff from the sediment in the water. They should then be boiled in water to which a little hydrochloric acid has been added. Do not use enough acid to injure the cloth. 202. Shrinkage in Curing. The loss of weight in curing is due to the evaporation of the water of the cheese and to chemical changes. The factors affect- ing the rate of loss in curing are : 1. The temperature of the curing room. 2. The relative humidity of the air of the curing room. 3. The size and the form of the cheese. 4. The moisture content of the cheese. 5. The protection to the surface of the cheese. The following table shows the effect of both the size of cheese and the temperature of the room on the shrinkage :* PER CENT OF LOSS IN TWENTY WEEKS. Weight of Temperature of Curing Rooms. Oheese. 40 degrees. 50 degrees. 60 degrees. 70 lbs. 45 lbs. 35 lbs. 12X lbs. 2.5 2.7 3.9 4.6 2.4 3.7 5.9 8.1 4.2 5.1 8.5 12.0 The low-temperature cheese was better in texture and milder in flavor than the cheese cured at higher temperatures and the low temperatures therefore returned more money, as shown in the following table : SHRINKAGE IN TWENTY WEEKS. Temperature Per cent, of Shrinkage. Scores of Oheese. Value of 100 pounds at 10c per pound. 40 degrees. 50 degrees. 60 degrees. 3.8 4.8 7.8 95.7 94.2 91.7 $9.62 9.52 9.22 At the end of twenty weeks the cheese cured at 40° F. was worth 22% cents more per 100 pounds than that cured at 50° F., and 60 cents more than that cured at 60° F. •Bulletin 26i of the Geneva Experiment Station. Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 103 303. Central Curing Rooms. Central curing rooms appear to be the most economical method of handling cheese. A small building containing the machinery for making cheese can be erected at little expense. Once or twice a week the cheese from a number of such make- rooms can be transferred to the central curing room which can Fig. 52. — Texture of cold-cured cheese; upper cheese cured at 60" F lower at 40° F. '^ 104 Cheese Making. be a large building— very likely cooled by artificial refrigera- tion. This arrangement will reduce the labor at the factories very materially and an expert can give his attention to the cur- ing of the cheese. The quality of cheese is not only enhanced at low tempera- tures, but the life of usefulness of the cheese is greatly extended. Combining the improved quality and increased quantity of the cheese cured at 40° for twenty weeks over that cured at 60° Fig. 53.— Cheese Factoi-y at Chimney Rock, Wis. The cheese is not cured at the factory, but is shipped twice a week to a central curing room at La Crosse. for the same length of time, the saving will, according to Dr. Van Slyke, be $1.08 per 100 pounds of cheese. For a factory receiving 5,000 pounds of milk per day this would mean $5.40 per day. For ten such factories $54 per" day. Considering the decreased cost of handling at the make-rooms and the smaller cost of one good curing building in the place of ten, it is quite evident that the central curing room makes it possible to cure cheese in the most economical manner. 204. Cold Curing of Cheese. During late years the method of cold-curing Cheddar cheese has been adopted quite generally by large manufacturers and wholesale cheese dealers. The cheese are kept at the factory for a week or ten days, and then brought to the cold-storage ware-house, where they are parafined (see below), and kept in cold-storage at below 40° for 2 months or more, according to the conditions of the market and the locality where they are to be sold. On account of the improved quality and the minimum losses through shrinkage in the case of cheese thus cured, this iQethod is likely to become of greater impor^^ance as our cheese Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 105 industry is developed and central curing rooms are becoming still more general than they are at the present time. 205. Paraffining Cheese. The evaporation of moisture from the cheese can be pre- vented by applying a coat of parafQne which) is practically im- pervious to moisture. If applied at a temperature of at least 200° F. the cheese will remain bright, as the mold spores are killed at that temperature and the paraffine adheres firmly to Fig. 54. — Tank used for paraffining Cheddar cheese in factories. The steam is admitted into the jacket around the tank and keeps the parafRne at the proper temperature. By means of such a tank and a pair of dipping tongs cheese can be paraffined easily and rapidly. the surface of the cheese. Applied hot, less paraffine is neces- sary, thus reducing the expense of coating. About 4 oz. of par- aflane will adhere to an ,80-pound cheese if the paraffining is done at 210-220° F. Semi-refined wax of a melting point be- low 116° F. should be used.* The vat in which the paraffine is melted is similar to a cheese vat but much smaller. A partition three inches from ♦Report 1906, Dairy Commissioner of Canada, p. 14, where a convenient form of apparatus used at Canadian curing rooms for waxing cheese is shown. See also Mich. Sta. Special Bull. 21, Farmers' Bull. 190, and Melick, Dairy Ijaboratory Guide, p. 66. 106 Cheese Making. one end does not reach quite to the bottom ; the large cakes of paraffine are slipped behind this when placed in the vat. The paraffine is colored a light yellow wUh. a little cheese or butter color. A frame for holding- the cheese hangs above the vat and is counterbalanced by a weight hanging over pulleys. The cheese is placed in the frame over the vat and then immersed 10 to 20 seconds in the hot paraffine. Then it is allowed to hang for a few minutes to harden sufficiently to handle. Dr. Van Slyke makes the following statement regarding paraffine in Bulletin 234 of the Geneva Experiment Station : "At the end of seventeen weeks, cheese covered with par- affine had lost only .3 pound for 100 pounds of cheese placed in storage at 40° F., .5 pound at 50° F., and 1.4 pounds at 60° F. The saving thus effected, based on the uniform price of cheese at 10 cents per pound, would average about 35 cents for 100 pounds of cheese cured at 40° F., 43 cents at 50° F., and 64 cents at 60° F. ; or comparing cheese kept at 40° F. covered with paraffine, with cheese cured at 60° F, not so covered, there would be a difference of 75 cents a hundred in favor of the paraffined cheese." The objection has been made that by paraffining cheese water is being sold for cheese, which is a fraud. The objection is answered by saying that it is retaining not an excess of mois- ture but the moisture that ought to be kept in the cheese. The English trade has objected to coated cheese and Canadian mak- ers are conservative about adopting the method. Some factories have adopted the method of coating green cheese fresh from the hoop. Some Wisconsin dealers have had trouble with some such cheese turning sour and going off flavor. Cheese should not be paraffiined before about 2 weeks old. Most wholesale houses are paraffining all cheese received, but this is usually two or three weeks old. The cheese-maker should be careful not to paraffine green or soft cheese. 2o6. Cheese, How Boxed. Young Americas are shipped four, Cheddars one, and flats generally two, in a box. Cubing and Shipping the Cheese. 107 Where flats are shipped two in a box they are placed one on top of the other, and are in| that ease termed "twins." When shipped one in a box they are called "singles." 207. Scale Boards. That the rinds of the cheese may be well protected "scale ' boards, ' ' or very thin basswood or whitewood boards, are placed in the box. Two or three are placed on each end of the box, and two or three between twins. This number is more than is gen- erally ■used, but cheese in this way keep better when placed in cold storage. If flats are put together without scale boards, and left for any great length of time, they will stick together so tight that they can only be pulled apart with difficulty. The rinds sweat and are easily broken. They therefore need plenty of scale boards. The boxes should be trimmed to one-eighth of an inch less than the height of the cheese, so that it will hold its place and arrive in the market in good condition. They should not be more than a) quarter of an inch larger in diameter than the cheese; if there is too much room in the box the cheese will be likely to shift around and break the box. On the other hand, the box should not be so tight that the cheese will stick in it. Boxes that are split or poorly nailed should be rejected, as they will be sure to arrive in the market in a dilapidated condi- tion. Cheese makers do not realize that boxes that may be in fair condition when filled may be entirely useless at the end of the journey. When the cheese is hauled to the depot the boxes should be covered with blankets to protect it from dust and the hot sun. 208. How Cheese are Weighed. In weighing cheese nothing but full pounds are counted. For instance, if the weight is 60% pounds, it is recorded as 60, or if the beam barely rises at 61 pounds, it is recorded as 60 pounds, as it would likely lose weight in transportation and be cut in weight when in the hands of the buyer. In the large warehouses, where hundreds of boxes arrive in a single day, they cannot stop to weigh every box, but weigh a few boxes, and if the weight falls short the whole lot is docked accordingly. Such weighings are referred to an official weighmaster. 108 Cheese Making. 209. Marking of Weights. The weight should be stenciled, or plainly marked, on the box (not the cover) next to the seam, where it can readily be found. A lead pencil hardly makes a sufficiently plain mark on a cheese box. The brand of the firm to whom the cheese is shipped should be stenciled on the side of the box. 210. Buyer's Stencil. The buyer generally furnishes a stencil for marking the boxes. Each stencil, so issued to a shipper, has a distinguishing number, which is recorded in the buyer's office, and by refer- ring to the number the latter will know who shipped the cheese. This is especially necessary where several factories make up a carload of cheese for one firm. If a cheese-maker has any cheese that is not first-class he should put a distinguishing mark on them and notify the buyer, who mil usually deal fairly with him, when he understands that the maker is not trying to take advantage of him. 211. How to Sell Cheese. Cheese is sold mostly on the dairy boards of trade. The buyer, after he bargains for the cheese, should be required to inspect the cheese at the factory and accept or reject it. He should then give a draft on a local bank for the amount due. The bank draws on the firm for this amount, at the place of business of the firm, and the cheese belongs to the bank till the draft is honored. This is a strictly cash basis, and is fair to both parties. QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER X. 1. What is the curing process in cheese? 2. At what tem- perature should cheese be cured ? 3. What has been learned by experiments in curing cheese from the same lot of milk at differ- ent temperatures'? 4. How should the curing shelves be made? 5. How should the cheese be arranged on the shelves? 6. What two instruments are used for measuring the humidity of the atmosphere, and what can be said as to their accuracy ? 7. What precautions should be taken in reading the psychrometer ? 8. What is meant by relative humidity, or per cent of saturation? 9. What should be the relative humidity of the curing room? Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 109 10. How may moisture be supplied to a room artificially? 11. How much cloth surface is required for a room containing five thousand cubic feet of space? 12. How should cheese be boxed? 13. What five factors affect shrinkage in curing? 14. "What are the advantages of central curing rooms? 16. What is the pur- pose of paraffining cheese? 17. At what temperature should paraffine be applied? 18. How does the shrinkage between par- affined and unparaffined cheese compare? 19. What are the objections to paraffining? 20. What are scale boards and how should they be used? 21. How should cheese be weighed? 22. How and where should the weights be marked on the box ? CHAPTEE XI. JUDGING CHEESE. 212. Ideal Cheese. One trouble whicli cheese-makers meet with is that they do not have the proper idea of a perfect cheese in their minds. This arises largely from the circumstances under which they are placed. The cheese are shipped out of the factory as soon as the buyer will take them, the youngest being but a week or ten days old. The cheese may have defects, but the maker does not get a chance to see how it will turn out. The requirements of a certain market with regard to a per- fect cheese are embodied in a ''Cheese Score," which shows the number of points on a scale of 100, given to the various quali- ties of the ideal cheese, as flavor, texture, color, etc. 213. Scale for Scoring Cheese. The scale of points now generally used in scoring cheese at dairymen's conventions and dairy shows in this country is as - follows : Flavor 45 Texture , 30 Color 10 Make up and general appearance -. 15 Total 100 In this scale salt is judged with flavor and texture where it belongs, while the very important item of the neat way in which the cheese is put up gets proper consideration. In the score formerly used, flavor was given 50 points, texture 30, and salt and color 10 points each. Under this score a dirty, poorly bandaged, crooked cheese might get as high a score as a neat square one. no Judging Cheese. Ill Prof. Dean suggests the following scale of points for judg- ing Canadian cheese :* Flavor 40, texture 20, closeness 15, even color 15, and salt 10, total 100. The English scale of points for scoring cheese is also given here: Flavor, 35; quality, 25; texture, 15; color, 15; make, 10; total 100. In this scale quality, which means that the cheese should be mellow, rich, melting on the tongue, applies to an old, well- cured cheese. The cheese that goes on the market in this coun- try does not have this quality. Fig. 55. — Cheese Trier. In scoring a cheese, this is sampled (tried) by means of a cheese trier, and the plug thus obtained carefully examined. The trier should be thin, round and a little tapering, so that it will pull a round smooth plug. A plug should always be taken from the top of the cheese. Never plug it through the bandage. When the plug has been replaced in the cheese, the place should be! greased over, to keep the cheese from drying out, and skip- pers from getting into the same. "We shall now discuss the various qualities of Cheddar cheese, as expressed by the score given above. 214. Flavor. Flavor is the most important item in the quality of a cheese. No matter how good the other points may be, if the flavor is bad, the cheese will be condemned. It would be a difficult mat- ter to describe accurately just what the flavor should be like, for there are different flavors in cheese, which may be equally good. This comes about from the different ferments in the ♦Canadian Dairying-, p. 178; see also Canadian government score, Appen- dix, p. 207. 112 Cheese Making, cheese which we cannot as yet entirely control. Bacteriological research may overcome this difficulty in the near future. The old saying that "the proof of the pudding is in the eating of it," is true of cheese. If the cheese tastes good and we want more of it, the flavor is satisfactory. It should not be sharp enough to bite the tongue, but of a mild lasting taste. A great many cheese, in which the flavor cannot be termed bad, are still on the negative side ; they do not have that fine lasting aroma, although we can eat them quite agreeably, but we do not feel that it is a matter of very great importance, whether we can have more of the same cheese or not. Where experts are judging cheese, they seldom taste it. They get the flavor simply by the smell, for if they tasted of every plug they would soon be confused as to flavors. If a cheese is cold, it should first be warmed in the fingers, before judging the flavor. 315. Texture. While flavor stands first in importance, the texture of a cheese comes next. The plug should be smooth, not fuzzy. If the cheese is not fully cured the plug should bend a little before breaking. When held between the eye and the light it should be slightly translucent. If the light does, not come through, it is a sign that the texture has been injured in the manufac- ture, probably by too high acid. When a piece is broken from the plug, it should not crumble off, but should show a surface such as flint does when broken ; this texture is therefore termed a "flinty break." When pressed between the fingers it should not stick to them but should mold like wax. Cheese that is tough and will not mold down readily between the fingers, is said to be " corky, ' ' this is probably due to over-cooking or use of an insufficient quantity of rennet to cure it properly. Cheese should not be mealy, as is the case with high acid or too highly salted cheese. A Cheddar cheese with good texture should not have any round, smooth or ragged holes in it; but should be perfectly solid. (See Fig. 52.) Cheese with the round holes, or one that is soft and pasty, will go "off flavor" on further keeping. Judging Cheese. 113 3i6 Salt. As was said under the subject of salting the curd, salt gives flavor to a cheese. In fact, the entire flavor is affected by the salt. Cheese that are a little soft and somewhat inferior in flavor could be improved by using a little more salt. It has also been stated that a free use of salt may injure both the texture and flavor of the cheese. The influence of salt is, therefore, partly considered under texture and flavor. 217. Color. The color of a cheese, like salt, is another way of judging its texture and flavor. A cheese without any coloring matter added to it is improperly termed "white." An uncolored cheese should never be white, but of a light amber color. If it is a dead white, it i^ so because the acid has cut the color out of it. In a colored cheese, these defects will be more easily seen. The color should be even from one end of the plug to the other. A high acid cheese will give a distinct odor to the trier, the same as when acid attacks steel. In judging cheese, unless some particular market is in view, the shade of color cannot be taken into consideration. As al- ready stated, New Orleans requires a very high color, St. Louis less, Chicago still less, while Boston in this country, and Bristol in England, want no artificial coloring. The tendency toward making uncolored cheese seems to be increasing. 218. Gross Appearance. A good judge can usually form a correct opinion of quality of a cheese from its outside appearance. It should be square, and the rind without cracks, for cracks indicate high acid. When the fingers are run over the surface, it should be springy, that is, it should give readily under the pressure and regain its position. If the finger sinks into a place which does not spring back, it indicates a hole or soft place in the cheese. The rind should not have any white spots on it, as these indicate whey. Sometimes the white spots will disappear in time, but it is a weak point in the quality of the cheese. 219. Corky Cheese. A corky cheese, as its name implies, has a texture resem- bling that of cork. It does not break down and probably will 114 Cheese Mi^mo. crumble in the fingers-. There are two general causes of corky- cheese, over-cook and too little rennet. In case of the latter cause the cheese will improve with age. 220. Hard, Crumbly or Mealy Cheese. , Too much salt -will make a hard cheese that will probably be mealy. A high acid cheese will have a similar texture, but the color will be cut and the flavor affected by the acid so that the! cause can be distinguished. 221. Weak Bodied, Pasty or Cracked Cheese. Cheese that has too much whey left in it either by under- cook or insufficient stirring when dipped, will be soft, and will not mold properly, but stick to the fingers. Such a cheese will show mottled spots on the rind. Too much piling on the racks will make a weak-bodied cheese. In extreme cases the whey will run out causing what is termed a leaky cheese. The danger of weak-bodied cheese is that they may become sour. Cracked cheese are caused either by sour curds or by in- sufficient closing in the press. The latter probably comes from fat covering the particles of curd and preventing their cement- ing into one mass. It may also be caused by over-cook or by a draft of air blowing over a cheese and drying it out rapidly. Any cheese will be apt to crack in a dry curing room in dry hot weather.* 222. Rusty Spots in Cheese. Rusty spots in cheese are caused by bacillus rudensis, first discovered by "W. T. Connell in 1896 in a Canadian factory. Spots of the size of a pinhead or larger, can be seen at a distance of several feet. In bad cases the cheese is colored as highly as if annatto had been used, but unevenly distributed. It is more prevalent around gas holes and moist spots. A warm cur- ing room hastens and a cool room retards them. They usually appear in four to eight days. If they do not appear in ten days there will be no cut in price. They do not injure the tex- ture or flavor, but the consumer objects to the appearance of such cheese. *D6fects in American Cheddar Cheese are discussed in detail, and causes and remedies given in each case, in a special article in the Appendix (see p. 199). Judging Cheese. 115 Red spots broke out first in 1883 in a mild form in St. Law- rence County, N. Y. In 1884 it was worse, occurring mostly in the fall months. It developed at a factory at Hailesboro in 1892 and the factory was eventually abandoned for cheesemak- ing. Other factories in New York and Canada have been trou- bled but it has not appeared in other parts of the country. Harding and Smith of the Geneva Experiment Station have car- ried on investigations, which show that the factory is usually the main seed bed, though the bacillus is found in the milk of certain dairies. If all of the apparatus is put into the cheese vat, then cov- ered tightly and a .jet of live steam turned on the utensils for an hour, and this operation repeated three times a week, the trouble can be practically eliminated. 223. Poison Cheese. There are occasional reports of people being poisoned by eating cheese. Fortunately these cases are quite rare, but as they are isolated it is difficult for scientists to trace the full history of the cheese. Professor Vaughan, of Michigan, some years ago carried on quite an extensive investigation of the chemical nature of such cheese and isolated a poison called tyro- toxicon. This poison causes cramps, acts as a purgative and paralyzes the lower limbs. The author's attention was called to the case of a factory in which some poison cheese had been made. The factory was kept in a neat and tidy manner so that it is not probable the poison resulted from carelessness at the factory. The maker stated, however, that every cheese contain- ing poison had been made when the milk was held several days before making into cheese, and in no case was poison formed in the cheese when the milk was made up each day. The great ma- jority of cases of ice cream poisoning have been traced to church socials, where the cream was gathered and held several days be- fore freezing. This evidence would indicate that the poison is more likely to occur when the milk is held several days before being made up. 116 Cheese Making. questions on chapter xi. 1. What are points in judging cheese and what importance is attached to each? 2. Describe the flavor of a good cheese. 3. Describe a good texture. 4, How does salt affect flavor and texture. 5. Describe a good color. 6. What can be learned from the gross appearance of a cheese? 7. What are the Eng- lish standards for cheese? 8. What is a corky cheese and its two principal causes ? 9. What are the causes of hard, crumbly or mealy cheese? 10. What is a weak bodied or pasty cheese and how is it caused? 11. What are the causes of cheese crack- ing? 12. What are rusty spots in cheese and how caused? 13. How extensive has the trouble of rusty spots been? 14. What is the method of combating rusty spots ? CHAPTER XII. HINTS ON THE CONSTRUCTION AND OPERATION OF CHEESE FACTORIES. 224. Independent Factories. In the closing pages of Chapter X the advantage of the central curing room has been set forth. This will apply only where one person or firm controls a large territory '^r where fac- tories combine to sell their products. The problem of success- fully operating the single factory still remains; in this chapter the construction and operation of such independent factories will be discussed. We will assume that the factory is to be equipped for hand- ling ten thousand pounds of milk a day, which is small enough. 225. Good Foundations. In the first place there should be good solid foundations of stone piers, which allows the ground to heave and settle, with- out raising or lowering the. building. The supports should be close enough together to hold the sills in place. 226. Dimensions. The plans may call for a making-room 20x30 feet, with an office ten feet square taken out of one comer of it, a boiler room 10x16 feet attached, and a curing house 20x40 feet, two stories high. - 227. Store Room. The upper story should never be used for curing cheese, but for storing cheese boxes and other supplies, 228. Curing Room. Some Canadian factories have the curing rooms in a build- ing separated from the rest of the factory, but they can be built together and the lumber and material thus saved which would be needed for a second wall if they were separated. 117 118 Cpieese Making. 229. Sills. We should have 8xl2-inch sills around the outside of the building. There should be two 6x8-ineh stringers, running across the make-room, and one of the same dimensions running through the middle of the long way of the curing room. Ten- foot joists can be put between the sills and stringers. The dimensions of these joists should be 2x10 inches, and they can be placed eighteen inches apart. 230. Curing Room Floor. The joists under the curing room should have rough boards nailed close together on the under side, and a five-inch layer of tanbark put in between them. There will then be a five-inch 3 "Press Cuiring SKeluei C^he Va1 Ch^ Vat H It ' — ' 7 rv7 Fig. 56. — Plan of a Cheddar cheese factory. space left above the tanbark, over which a tight, heavy floor is to be laid. This may be made, by first laying rough boards, and covering with paper, and then laying the regular flooring. The tanbark, air space and tight floor are a protection against the outside temperature. Construction and Operation of Cheese Factories. 119 331. Vat Room Floor. The making room should have a heavy two-inch floor, preferably of maple. It must slope at the rate of one inch in five feet, toward a ditch at the lower end of the vats or twenty feet from the front end of the room. 232. Curing Room Walls. Paper can be put on the studding under the siding, and the walls lathed and plastered. The studding is of 2x4, such as is generally used, and if tanbark can be easily obtained, it can be filled in between the studding. Tanbark is better than saw- dust for filling in such places, as mice are not inclined to work in it. It is hardly necessary to say, that the top of the room should either be ceiled or plastered. The curing room must practically be a large box, with walls so constructed that the temperature inside will be affected as little as possible by the outside temperature; some means of introducing cool, fresh air into the curing room is highly de- sirable. The walls and ceilings will therefore have to be of several thicknesses, with air spaces between, like the floor which we have already described. 233. Door and Windows. We must not forget, after we have built such walls, to have the windows fit tightly and have shutters on the outside. The doors must be heavy, with air spaces in them, and close tightly with a lever latch like a refrigerator door. To construct our walls, we may put the 2x4 studding two feet apart, which is to be lathed and plastered inside. On the outside, rough boards and paper may be put, and then another row of studding, and paper nailed on with boards on the outside of these. In the spaces in the outer row of studding, tanbark may be filled in. 234. Joists. The joists in the ceiling should be 2x6, ten feet long, eighteen inches apart, supported by 4x6 running crosswise of the room. If the room is ceiled overhead, tanbark three inches, deep can be filled in between the joists, and then a layer of pa- per put down before the floor is laid. If the room is lathed 120 Cheese Making. and plastered, boards must be put in to hold the tanbark. 'the second story, which is used only as a store room, need not have double walls. A tight-fitting trap door should be made between the store room above and the curing room below, through which to get the cheese boxes down. 235. Stone Cellar. A better wall for the curing room in the first story may be made of stone, and built into the side of a hill, for still greater protection from outside temperatures, as in the case Avith cellars for curing of brick and Swiss cheese. The stone and earth help to keep down the temperature of the air in the room. 236. Curing Cellars. In some places cellars made for curing brick cheese have been used with splendid results for Cheddar cheese. Such o cellar is built into the side of a hill, it is stoned up on the sides and rises above the ground just far enough for small windows around the top. One trouble with these cellars is that they are sometimes so damp that cheese molds rapidly. 237. Ventilation of Cellar. Dampness in the cellar can be obviated by ventilation. At each end of the room is an eight-inch pipe running up through the roof. One of these has a cone above it to prevent the rain coming in through it. On the top of the other is a hood with a tail that keeps the hood always facing toward the wind, and the wind striking into the hood carries a current of air down into the room, while another current of air goes out of the other pipe. Dampers similar to those put into stovepipes can be ar- ranged in these pipes to regulate the flow of air. If the air should get too dry, moisture can be supplied by means of wet sheets. I have seen such curing cellars where the inside tem- perature did not go above sixty-five degrees, while that outside was eighty-five to ninety. We would have to change the plans of the factory here given for such a curing cellar. 238. Sub-Earth Ducts. In the first edition of ' ' Cheddar Cheese Making, ' ' published in 1893, the use of sub-earth ducts for cooling curing rooms was advocated. Since then the system has been put into use and is very successful. As one descends into the ground the effect Construction and Operation op Cheese Factories. 121 of the sun's heat is left behind. Lower down the internal heat is felt, but in a zone said to be between twenty and eighty feet below the surface there is a constant temperature of 48° to 50°, or possibly colder. This is indicated by the temperature of the spring and well water that comes to the surface. By conducting , air down into the ground and then through a system of tubes ten or twelve feet below the surface for a hundred feet or more, the air can be carried into the curing room at a temperature of not over 60° F. If the curing room is well insulated the air cannot get in at any other place and will be cool. The air is forced into the duct by means of a cowl, which always faces n^srC-^ C UlflN& ffOOM SUB-Efi^TH DUCT @ CN&iNe UORI^ WOOM HOOK Fig. 57. — Method of cooling air with cold cold water. A, curing room; B, duct leading into curing room; C, E, galvanized iron drums, air and water tight; F, thirteen or more 5-inch flues of galvanized iron, 10 ft. long, soldered water tight to drums to cool air; D, main air duct from funnel; G, water pipe from pump; H, over-fiow pipe; I, damper in main shaft; J 4-inch pipe leading from blower to use when there is no wind; K, smoke stack of boiler; L, ventilator irom curing room to smoke stack; N, boiler. 122 Cheese Making. the wind, and the air is thereby forced down the tube into the duct. An outlet from the top of the curing room allows the warm air to escape. A curing room if built as described, would be right to use with a sub-earth duct, but double windows and doors should be put in to make the room perfectly tight. The 4^H: 58.— Section of cheese-curing room and horizontal multiple sub- earth duct. A, mlet to curing room; B, end of sub-earth duct in bricked entrance to factory; C, cross-section of the multiple ducts as placed in a fac- tory at Neenah, Wis. D, B, bricked entrance under funnel at outer end of sub- earth duct; F, funnel with mouth 36 inches across; G, vane to hold fun- nel to the wind. Construction and Operation of Cheese Factories. 123 A ' >^ y^y ^<> -r-:- B %mF^ .B •-■•.■ Fig. 59. — Vertical section of a cheese factory and sub-earth duct in well at Colby, Wis. A, A, funnel taking air into well; B, B, B, duct leading air from well to curing room; C, D, ventilator. 124 Cheese Making. illustrations here given of the construction of cheese curing rooms and of a ventilating duct are taken from Bulletin 70, of the Wisconsin Experiment Station, by Prof. F. H. King. 239. Number and Size of Tiles. The first duets constructed were single tubes, but they were too near the surface and therefore unsuccessful. The first suc- cessful duct was made by placing thirteen rows, one hundred feet long, of six-inch tiles eight to ten feet in the ground. These tiles were, however, somewhat small in diameter, and by fric- tion hindered the passage of air on still days when most needed. Professor King recommends not less than three ten-inch tiles one hundred feet long for a curing room of 5,000 cubic feet of space. Longer tubes and more of them twelve feet down would be better, 240. Use of a Well. The illustration (Fig. 59) shows how a well may be used for cooling the air of a curing room. It is one of the most successful plans proposed for this purpose. 241. Water Motor Fans for Driving Air. The weak point in the sub-earth duct is that there may be several days of hot weather with little wind when the cowl will not work. At such a time a fan driven by water motor will cir- culate the air. The Triumph Dairy Co., Triumph, Ohio, has such a contrivance. A five-barrel tank of water on top of the building will run the fan most of the night. The tank is filled with water by a steam pump. 242. Boiler Room. The boiler room should have a cement floor laid on the ground, and the walls and ceiling should be lined with corru- gated sheet iron, to insure against fire. 243. Building Should be Raised. The rest of the building should be raised about a foot above the ground, so that air may circulate beneath and keep the sills from rotting. 244. Water Supply. A good well is an absolute necessity for a cheese factory. Water can be pumped into a galvanized iron cistern placed Construction and Operation of Chei^e Factories. 125 above the curing room. This cistern should be set in a drip pan, which will catch any leak or sweat from it, and carry it outside without leaking through into the curing room. 245. Hot Water. From the cistern, water may be carried in pipes to the different parts of the building. The water pipes should be gal- vanized so they will not rust. A steam pipe can be connected to the water pipe by a T, and the flowing water thus heated by turning steam into it. j^v>^v1 HIfTn ^--^v>.v>^vs.^ ^ Fig. 60. — Plan for a septic tank.* This is a cement tank 8 feet long, 4 feet wide and 2% feet deep, with a partition reaching nearly to the top and dividing it into two sections. The top has two manholes G opening into the sections. The sewage enters Sec- tion 1 through pipe E, into part A, which is separated from part B by a plank partition having 1-inch spaces between the planks, to keep solid mat- ter in part A. Solid matter collects on the top by formation of gas. The liquids flow from the bottom through pipe F into Section 2. When this fills the trap valve is sprung and lets the liquid run out into th© underground system of tiles. The tiles should not be more than a foot below the surface of the ground, and should be level. Their volume should be a little more than the volume of the section of the tank emptied into the tile. "While the tank is filling again, the liquid soaks intO' the soil and bacteria near the sur- face decompose the organic matter. Prof. John Michels of N. C. College of Agriculture has experimented with septic tanks and finds the tanks, without the tiles, to be sufficient to decompose creamery slops. ♦Hoard's Dairyman, January 1, 1904. 126 Cheese Making. 246. Septic Tank. Much difficulty has been experienced in getting rid of the sewage around cheese and butter factories. The blind well has been a source of contamination of the water supply, and pollu- tion of streams has been the occasion for law suits and neigh- borhood quarrels. The septic tank offers a simple, cheap and efficient means of sewage disposal. It has been presented in a number of dairy papers. (See Fig. 60.) It is two feet deep and above ground, though it may be covered with earth. The factory must therefore be built high enough to empty the drains into the top of the tank. The sys- tem of tiles into which the tank empties should not be over one foot below the surface and should be perfectly level. 247. Sewer Trap. At the mouth of the factory drain there should be a sewer trap, which is simply an c/3 shaped pipe, in which water con- stantly stands and keeps gas from coming up from the septic tank. 248. Whey Tank, How Built. The whey tank should be lined with galvanized iron, and be placed high enough for a wagon to drive under, and draw off the whey by simply opening a valve. The ground ought to be paved in such a way that the drip will run off into the sewer. A skim-milk weigher will facilitate an equal division of the whey, 249. Elevating Whey. To get the whey from the vat into the whey tank, it can be drawn into a box or barrel, and from there forced by a steam jet into the whey tank. The whey should be scalded to keep it sweet, and after the patrons are gone every morning, the tank should be scrubbed out and steam turned into it to scald it. There should be a platform around the tank and steps leading up, so that a person can get into it easily. 250. Sink, How Made. Another necessary thing, which is seldom found in a fac- tory is a good sink. It should be iron or galvanized-iron lined, and plenty large enough — say three feet long, by twenty inches Construction and Operation of Cheese Factories. 127 wide, by twelve inches deep, properly connected with the sewer. At the end of the sink there should be a wide shelf or table in- clined toward the sink, so that drippings will run off into the sink. This shelf is used to drain tinware, and a steam jet pro- jecting through it, can be used to sterilize utensils. Fig-. 61.— Wash Sink. Hot and cold water connections at the sink should be pro- vided, and perhaps a hot water barrel beside it. This barrel may be made of galvanized iron, and should be used for a sup- ply of clean, hot water, rather than a place to wash dirty tools, which should be cleaned in the sink. 251. Bath Room. One thing that a factory should have, though generally unthought of, is a bath room. This can be placed above the curing room. A room, five by eight feet, can have a floor cov- ered with galvanized iron, to catch any drip or slop, and a bath tub put in. Hot and cold water can be connected with it, and a most desirable convenience thus supplied. 128 Cheese Making. 252. Equipment. For a factory of the capacity previously mentioned, an eight-horse power boiler will be required. A horizontal brick arch boiler is preferable to a vertical one, as it will hold the heat better, and a person can more easily clean the flues. There should be a good steam pump, and possibly an en- gine, though the latter is not absolutely necessary. For ten thousand pounds of milk two vats of a capacity of 5,200 pounds will be needed ; these ought to be provided with whey gates for emptying them. 253. Water Boxes of Vats Should be Lined. It is quite essential also to have the water >oxes of the vats lined with galvanized iron, or they will leak, making a bad muss on the floor. 254. Curd Sink, Presses, and Hoops. It will be remembered that a curd sink is a necessary piece of apparatus in getting the curd drained properly; we must, therefore, have a curd sink constructed in the way suggested. For the curd from 10,000 pounds of milk, two gang presses, and either twenty Cheddar or forty flat hoops will be required. 255. Pressing Flats. One should not attempt, as is quite commonly done, to press two flats in a Cheddar hoop by putting a divider between. Artistic looking cheese cannot be made in that way. Flat hoops do not cost nearly as much as they formerly did, and the expense will be but slightly increased by providing the necessary number of hoops. 256. Milk, How Lifted. If the roadway is not high enough to empty the milk directly into the weigh can, a large wheel fixed tight on an axle is probably the best appliance for lifting the milk. An endless rope runs over the wheel, and by pulling this rope the wheel turns and winds up another rope on the axle. This rope has tongs on it, which take hold of the milk can. The weigh can is placed on an 800-pound double-beam scale, which stands in a receiving room or covered platform. This platform is built out on brackets in front of the factory. On Construction and Operation of Cheese Factories. 129 one side of the room is a shelf for the milk book, and another for the sample jars. The milk is run from the weigh can to the vat, through an open tin conductor. 257. Milk Testing. For testing the milk, we should have a thirty-bottle steam- , turbine Babcock tester, and a Quevenne lactometer. The Que- venne lactometer gives a direct reading of the specific gravity, and is used in connection with the Babcock fat test for detec- tion of watered milk (62). Fig. 62. — Milk Conductor Head, for running milk from weigh can to vat. 258. Appliances Needed, Some of the minor articles needed in the factory, are usu- ally lacking, and sometimes there are not enough of the articles to enable one to work handily. There ought to be two curd knifes— horizontal and perpen- dicular—and these should be six or eight inches wide and twenty inches long. A rennet test will be required, and two or three reliable thermometers, for these are easily broken, and we must not run the risk of being without one. wash dish, two curd pails, three or four twelve-quart tin pails, several dippers, one of which has a flat side, and a perforated tin bottom, for skimming specks off the milk. 259. Curing Shelves. The shelves in the curing room are supported by cross- pieces, attached to wooden posts. These posts are 4x4s, reach- ing from floor to ceiling. The cr-^ss pieces are 2x4s, set into the 4x4, to keep them from tilting, and a bolt put through to hold them in place. The shelves are sixteen-foot boards; six- teen inches wide, and one and a half inches thick. They should be the clearest pine lumber obtainable. The shelving can run crosswise of the room, and if the 10 130 Cheese Making. boards are sixteen feet long, there will be a four-foot passage on the side of the room next to the making room. At the fur- ther end of the room from the door to the making room, ten feet of space can be left for boxing cheese. 260. Cost of Factory. The factory we have suggested will cost more than the ordinary run of factories, for it is much better. Nothing that will be a waste of money has been suggested. Certain firms put up factories which are inferior to this, for which they get a third more money than this will cost. As the cost of material in different localities varies so much, we have not set a price on this factory, but the necessary facts are given, so that anyone can figure on the cost of the building for his own locality, and reliable firms will furnish machinery at reasonable prices.* QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XII. 1. What is the necessity of good foundations for a factory? 2. How should the curing room wall be constructed? 3. Why are double windows needed in the curing room ? 4. How should the curing room door be built? 5. What is the advantage of a curing room in a cellar? 6. How may such a room be ven- tilated? 7. What is the principle on which a sub-earth duct works? 8. How many and how large tiles should be used? 9. How deep should the tiles be placed in the ground? 10. How long should a duct be? 11. How may air be forced through the duct? 12. How large should the cowl be and how high should it be placed? 13. How can a well be utilized as a duct? 14. How can hot water be secured? 15. Why should the water pipes be galvanized? 16. What can be said of good sewer connections ? 17. What is a septic tank ? 18. How should the whey tank be constructed? 19. How should the whey be drawn off? 20. How can the whey be elevated? 21. Why should the water tanks of the vats be lined? 22. How should the curd sink be constructed? 23. Why should flats not be pressed in Cheddar hoops? 24. How should a wash sink be made? 25. How should the curing shelves be constructed? *For plans of cheese factory buildings and equipment, see also Dairy Commissioner of Canada, Rept. 1906, pp. 25-34; Dean, Canadian Dairying, pp. 245-8; Mont. Exp. Station Bull. 53; and Mo. Exp. Station, Circ. of Inf., 18. CHAPTER XIII. ORGANIZATION OF CHEESE FACTORY ASSOCIATIONS. 261. Plans of Operation. Cheese factories are operated on two plans, namely, the private and the stock company systems. In the first named plan the factory is owned by an individual who furnishes every- thing needed in the manufacture, and receives a certain price per pound for such manufacture, the milk and the cheese being considered the property of the patrons. The patrons then have some form of organization for the purpose of selling the cheese and dividing the money, and looking after the interests gen- erally. Under the other system the farmers' organization owns the factory, and the officers do all business and hire a cheese maker to manufacture the cheese. Co-operative associations are usu- ally not successful unless a business manager is given full au- thority to manage the business. The following by-laws will give a general idea of how to organize such an association : 262. By-Laws for a Cheese Factory Association. Article I. Name — This Association shall be knoTvn as the Cheese Company. Article Il.-^Capital Stock — The capital stock of the Association shall be $4,000, divided into two hundred shares of twenty dollars each Article III. Officers — The officers shall be a president who shall have general oversight of the business of the Association and prosecute any case at law that may arise. A treasurer shall receive and disburse all money and keep a proper set of books which shall be open to inspection of any member of the Association at any time. He shall be the salesman for the Association. He shall receive $ per annum for his services. There shall be a secretary who shall figure all milk dividends. He shall be Chair- man of the Test Committee. Article IV. There shall be semi-annual meetings of the Association on the first Tuesday in March and October, three days' notice of the time 131 132 Cheese ]\Iaking. and place of meeting to be given by the president. Special meetings may be called by the president, three days' notice of the time and place to be given, and upon the written request of ten members of the Association the president shall call such a meeting. Article V. The division of money for cheese sold shall be deter- mined by the fat test of the milk, after expense of making has been de- ducted. The remaining amount of money shall be divided by the number of pounds of butter fat delivered during the time said cheese vras made, to determine the price per pound of butter fat, and each patron shall re- ceive that price per pound for the butter fat delivered by him during that time. Article VI. Test Committee — There shall be a test committee of three members beside the secretary vrho shall assist the cheese maker in testing the milk. Article VII. The price for making cheese shall be one and a half cents per pound. Article VIII. The cheese maker may reject any milk that in his judgment vrill not make first-class cheese. Article IX. No milk will be received at this factory that has not been properly strained and aerated. Article X. These by-laws may be altered at any legal meeting by a two-thirds vote of the members present, providing there are at least ten members present at such meeting. The above by-laws can, of course, be changed to suit any particular locality or conditions. The amount of capital stock may be altered, or such articles changed to make them suit a private factory. 263. Test Committee. Article VI, which provides for a test committee, is for the purpose of preventing dissensions. "We quite often hear it stated that the maker reads the tests low to get a larger yield, or that he favors one patron more than another. Such state- ments may be founded on facts, but are often the result of suspicions. If the patrons have a committee of their number to see the tests made, such a committee cannot fail to secure justice. 264. Quorum. The number that shall constitute a quorum has been pur- posely left out, for in such an association it is not very impor- tant, and might hinder the business of some meetings. The ar- ticle on the revision of the by-laws contains a clause that prac- tically names a quorum in such a case. Organization of Chkese Factory Association. 133 265. Rates for Making. In some Canadian stock companies there are two rates charged for making the cheese, a stockholders' rate and a pa- trons' rate, which is higher than the former. The patron is not entitled to whey. It belongs to the corporation, to be fed to hogs owned by the association, or disposed of as the stockholders see fit. Each share of stock entitles the owner to have fifteen thousand pounds of milk made up at stockholders' rates, and after that he must either get another share of the stock or pay patrons' rate for all milk made up above that amount. The ob- ject of this rule is to make each patron take a financial interest in the factory, 266. Figuring Dividends. As is indicated in one of the by-laws the price per pound of butter fat should be found, and each patron paid for the pounds of fat delivered by him. Cheese may be sold each week, but the dividends are made for the month. The composite samples of milk are saved as described un- der the head of milk testing ; these are tested once a week. The pounds of milk delivered by the patron multiplied by the per cent of fat, gives the pounds of fat delivered by him. The amount of money left after paying all expenses is then divided by the total pounds of fat for the month to get the price per pound of fat. The number of pounds of fat delivered by each patron, multiplied by the price per pound, gives the amount due him. Theoretically, the pounds of milk delivered each week should be multiplied by the weekly test, but if the tests from week to week are averaged for the month, and the average test multiplied by the amount of milk for the month, the result will come very close to the amount obtained if each week's fat is found and added together for the month, and a large amount of labor will be saved in the calculations. If there is a small surplus or shortage of money in figuring, it can be added to or subtracted from the next month's money before determining the price per pound. For an example of dividing the money suppose there are three patrons, and during the month they delivered milk as fol- lows: 134 Cheese Making. A 3,000 Tbs. milk testing 4.0% =120 Ybs. fat B 2,200 lbs. milk testing 35% = 77 lbs. fat C 1,000 lbs. milk testing 4.5% = 45 lbs. fat Total for month.. . . . . .6,200 lbs. milk testing 3 90%=:242 lbs. fat By dividing the pounds of fat by the pounds of milk for the month, and multiplying by 100 we get the average test of all the milk for the month. This is not needed in the figuring of the dividends, but it is interesting to know what the average test is. Suppose the cheese made from the milk was 620 pounds and sold at 10 cents per pound. We then have $62.00. The cost of making was $9.30, and we have left $52.70 to be divided among the patrons. By dividing this amount by the 242 pounds of fat we get 21.7 cents per poimd. Then A has 120 lbs. fat @ 21.7 cts.= $26.04 B has 77 lbs. fat @ 21.7 cts.= 16.71 C has 45 lbs. fat (a) 21.7 ets.= 9.76 Total $52.51 We had $52.70 to be divided; the 19 cents surplus may be added to next month's money to be divided among the patrons. One should always prove his figures to be sure they are correct.* 267. Three Methods of Figuring Dividends. Prior to the invention of the Babcock test, milk delivered at the cheese factories was always paid for according to the so- called pooling system, by which method the milk from all the patrons received the same price per cwt., regardless of its qual- ity and value for cheese making. This plan is still in use in many cheese factories, although it is readily seen that it is un- fair to the patron furnishing rich milk, or milk testing above the average for the factory. The method of payment explained in the preceding is based on the test of the milk furnished by the different patrons and is believed to be the most equitable and convenient plan for pay- ing for milk at a cheese factory, since the fat content of the milk determines the quality of the cheese, as well as the amount of cheese made per cwt. of milk. The objection to this system is that a milk rich in butter fat does not yield quite as much *The methods of calculating- dividends at cheese factories are discussed: in more detail in "Testing Milk and Its Products," 18th ed., pp. 199-203. Organization of Cheese Factory Association. 135 more cheese than a milk low in butter fat as is indicated by the differences in the tests, but the quality of the cheese from rich milk is enough better to make up for the small difference in the yield per pound of butter fat.* As a compromise between the pooling system and the plan • of payment by the test, Professor Dean of Guelph (Ont.) Agri- cultural College, has suggested the method of adding two to the •test;.t thus,, if patron A's milk tested 3 per cent, adding 2 makes it 5 per cent; if patron B's milk tested 4 per cent, adding 2 makes it 6 per cent, thus changing the ratio of the relative value of the two milks for cheese-making purposes from 3:4 to 5:6. This method of payment which has been adopted at some Cana- dian factories, gives an advantage to the patron furnishing milk of the poorest quality and renders it advantageous to adulterate the milk by watering. An example will illustrate how this works out : Let us suppose that a patron furnishes 100 pounds of 4-per cent milk ; if he adulterates this with 100 pounds of water, to take an extreme case, he will have 200 pounds of milk testing 2 per cent ; by adding 2 to the milk testing 4 per cent, he will re- ceive credit for 6 points in his dividends, while if the milk is adulterated as suggested, he will receive credit for 4 pounds per hundred weight, or 8 points for his 200 pounds of adulterated milk. By basing the dividends on the fat test he would receive credit for 4 pounds in both cases, as he has not increased the amount of butter fat in his milk by watering it. 268. Factory Statement. A statement containing all necessary items should be given each patron so that he can figure the dividend himself. There should be a printed form for this. The following may be used : MUSCODA CHEESE ASSOCIATION FACTORY. Statement for Month of Sales include following dates to No. pounds of cheese sold... . i^' ■^iliiiSSii TSee Bull. 114, Ont. Agric. College; also Dean, Canadian Dairying, p. 146. 136 Cheese Making. Amount of money received $ Average price per pound ctg. No. pounds of milk delivered No. pounds of fat delivered Average test Expenses Money to be divided WMch leaves cts. per pound of fat No. pounds of milk delivered by you Your average test Pounds of fat delivered by you At cents per pound $ Dr. by pounds of cheese at cts. per pound Money due you No. pounds of fat required for 1 pound cheese No. pounds of cheese from 100 pounds milk Sec. QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XIH. 1. What are the two general plans on which, a factory may- be operated? 2. What is a common cause of the failure of co- operative companies? Describe how dividends are figured. 4, Why should a statement be made to each patron when a divi- dend is declared? 5. What are the important points in such a statement ? CHAPTER XIY. SWISS CHEESE— ITS CHARACTERISTICS. 269. Sweet Curd Cheese. It will be remembered that Cheddar cheese was first made in England and was iatrodnced into America by the emig-rants from England. In like manner the mannfactnre of a nnmber of other styles of cheese has been introdnced. These styles are what are generally termed sweet-cnrd cheese. The Cheddar is made from ripened milk and a certain amount of acid is devel- oped in the whey. With the sweet cnrd varieties, however, the milk must be sweet, the milk being curdled and cooked up as rapidly as possible and then put into the molds before salting. The salt is nearly all applied to the outside of the cheese by means of dry salt rubbed on the surface or by soaking the cheese in a strong brine. Among these cheese are "Swiss," of the round and block varieties, also brick and Limburger. Swiss cheese has been made in this country quite as long as has the Cheddar and with the brick and Limburger, will soon be, if it is not already, entitled to the name "American." 270. Swiss Cheese, Where Made. American Swiss, or "Sweitzer," as it is called, is made to the greatest extent in this country in Green and Dodge counties, Wisconsin ; in Wayne, Stark and other counties in Ohio ; and in New York State. The makers are mostly natives of Switzer- land, who have emigrated to this country and brought their methods of making with them. These methods can probably be improved upon in a number of ways, as will be indicated. 271. Description of Swiss Cheese. Swiss cheese is known in the old countiy by the name of Emmenthaler. Its origin is not definitely known, but it has 137 138 Cheese Making. been made in the canton of Bern since the fifteenth century. In this countiy it is made in two forms, the round or drum Swiss, and the block Swiss. The drum Swiss is pressed in large round cakes, twenty- four to possibly thirty-six inches in diameter, and four to six inches in thickness. Such a cheese will weigh, on the average. Fig. 63. — Students making Swiss cheese. about 180. pounds. The block Swiss is six inches square by twenty inches long, and weighs twenty-five to thirty pounds. The illustration (Fig. 64) shows a drum Swiss cheese cut open. On top is laid a square which indicates its size. The illustration of two block Swiss on page 142 will give an idea of their propor- tions. 272. Determining Quality of Swiss Cheese. In order to intelligently discuss the manufacture of the cheese, we should know what is required in a Swi?s cheese to make it of the best quality. Swiss Cheese— Its Characteristics. 139 273. Flavor. First as to flavor. The flavor of the Swiss cheese is a hard thing to describe, the same way as it is difficult to express in words the flavor of a Cheddar cheese. It can be said, however, that the Swiss cheese has a slightly salty taste peculiar to itself, a taste that is very pleasing. A cheese that is bitter to the taste is to be condemned. Fig. 64. — A typical Swiss cheese, showing characteristic holes or "eyes." A square on top of it shows its size. The eyes reflect the light, showing that they have a shiny suriace. 274. Texture. -A good Swiss cheese should have the right dough, that is, it should not stick to the fingers, nor, on the other hand, be too dry, but it should mold in the fingers like wax, or as the term indicates,, like dough. It should also have plenty of even-sized eyes or holes about a half an inch in diameter, evenly distributed through the cheese, as is seen in the illustration. These holes should have a glossy surface, which is again an indication that the dough is right. If it is too soft, these holes will have a dull surface. In an old cheese drops of brine may be found in the holes. 140 Cheese Making, 275. Color. The color should be white. The native Swiss cheese is very light colored, probably on account of the feed that the cows get, which may influence the character of the fat given by the native cows (we know that Guernsey milk is exceptionally yellow, while Holstein milk is light-colored), and by the length of time a cheese has cured. American Swiss cheese that are quite yellow will turn white with more age and cannot be distinguished from the foreign article, and except for the name "imported," may be just as fine. One reason why foreign cheese meets with so Fig. 65. — A serie«> of plugs from Swiss cheese of different quality. Nos. 1, 2, 3 would be classed as No. 1 cheese, though 2 has rather too many holes. Nos. 4 and 5 show the cracks of a glaesler and the corresponding pasty appear- ance. No. 6 at the upper end indicates a niszler, though a typical niszler would have small holes the entire length of the plug. No. 7 is what would be termed a blind cheesie as there are not "eyes" or holes. much favor in this country is that it does not reach the con- sumer till it is thoroughly cured ; if good American cheese of the various kinds are allowed to get thoroughly cured they will meet with the same favor. 276. Grades of Cheese. There are, however, poorer grades of this Swiss cheese that are not represented by our illustration. Cheese are classed in Swiss Cheese— Its Characteristics. 141 three grades, No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3. Cheese like the one shown on page 139 with the right dough and flavor, and the right kind and distribution of holes is classed as No. 1 cheese. Cheese with- out eyes or holes is termed blind and classed as No. 2. A cheese with little gas holes (called pin-holes in Cheddar cheese) is termed a niszler, meaning "a thousand eyes." One that is pasty and will stick to the fingers usually has few round holes, and if it does have them they are not glossy on the surface. Such a cheese is likely to have checks or cracl?s, running usually in a horizontal direction, through it. These cracks are supposed to resemble the fracture of a piece of glass and hence the cheese is called a glaesler. 277. How Cheese is Tried. When a buyer goes into a factory to buy cheese he cannot cut any of the cheese open, as shown in the illustrations. He sees the inside of it by drawing a plug with a cheese trier, as is done in buying Cheddar cheese. The picture on page 140 is a photograph of typical plugs of Swiss cheese. Plugs 1, 2 and 3 have the proper kind of holes, though No. 2 has rather too many to be classed as No. 1 cheese. Again, the holes in No. 3 or at least one hole, was too large, for it cut the plug entirely off. It would, however, probably pass for No. 1. Plugs 4 and 5 have the cracks of a glaesler, and the little particles of curd roughed up show it to be pasty. Plug No. 6 shows a niszler at the upper end, while plug No. 7 is blind. Requirements of Swiss Cheese. — Now to review the classes of Swiss cheese, the requirements for No. 1 are that : 1. The flavor shall be good. 2. The texture shall have the right dough, i. e., it must not be too dry, neither stick to the fingers, but mold like wax. It shall have the right kind of eyes evenly distributed. 3. The color should be light. No. 2 Cheese would include : 1. Cheese of a second rate flavor. 2. Glaesler or blind cheese. 3. Cheese with a very uneven or abnormal development of eyes. 4. Niszlers. 142 Cheese Making. No. 3 Cheese would include : 1. Cheese of bad flavor. 2. Cheese damaged by rats or mice. 3. Cheese cracked open. Cheese damaged by rats or mice or cracked are very likely to rot at such points. The buyer in the presence of the cheese maker determines the grade of the cheese, and marks it on the edge with his trier Fig-. 66. — Block Swiss cheese as it appears when of fine quality. Pig. 67. — Block Swiss cheese bulged at sides from too rapid formation of gas. The salt did not work to the center fast enough. Swiss Cheese— Its Characteristics. 143 by gouging out I, II or III marks. He afterwards brands it with a hot branding iron, the brand being usually his initials. When the price of No. 1 is 91/2 cents, the price of No. 2 will likely be 8 cents, and No. 3 will sell for from 3 to 5 cents. Italians like glaeslers better than cheese with the eyes in it, , and will often pay No. 1 price for the glaesler and reject a No. 1 cheese. Some makers regularly turn out cheese of No. 1 qual- ity, while others have considerable difficulty in so doing, and the difference in price makes a very large difference in the size of the maker's pocketbook. The criticism that is often heard re- garding our Cheddar cheese is, that there is not enough distinc- tion made in price between good, indifferent and bad cheese. That criticism cannot apply to the Swiss cheese markets for the judgment in buying is very rigid. QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XIV. ■ 1. What are the two kinds of cheese which are made with reference to the amount of acid developed? 2. Under what class does Cheddar fallf 3. Under what class does Swiss cheese fall? 4. How is the salt usually applied to sweet-curd cheese? 5. Where is American Swiss made in greatest quantities? 6. By what name does Swiss cheese go in Switzerland? 7. What are the two kinds of Swiss cheese made in this country? 8. What is a good flavor in a Swiss cheese? 9. What is a good texture in a Swiss cheese? 10. What is meant by the eyes of a cheese? 12. What should be the size of these eyes, how should they appear on their surface and how should they be distrib- uted ? 13. What should be the color of a Swiss cheese and what conditions influence it? 1. What are the three grades of cheese and what conditions determine the grade into which a cheese goes? 15. What is a niszler cheese? 16. What is a glaesler cheese ? CHAPTER XV. SWISS CHEESE— FROM MILK TO CURING CELLAR. 278. Selection of the Milk. As has been previously explained, Swiss cheese is made from sweet milk. So important does this seem to be that the milk is delivered to the factory twice a day and immediately made into cheese. It is believed by a good many makers that the rennet shonld under all circumstances be gotten into the milk as soon as possible. 279. Cause of QIaesler Cheese. Exception may, however, be taken to the opinion that all milk for Smss cheese should be set immediately when received at the factory, for as may have been observed in the experiments with rennet, a very sweet milk does not curdle rapidly nor is the curd as firm as the curd from riper milk. It takes a certain amount of acid (probably about .17 per cent) to make the ren- net expel the whey properly. With too sweet milk, such as is obtained in the cool weather of the fall months, it is hard to get a good cook on the curd and such cheese will have a pasty tex- ture, and a pasty texture will make a glaesler cheese. 280. Rennet Test Should be Used. The milk for Swiss cheese should not be as ripe as for Cheddar cheese, but the rennet test should be used to determine the condition of the milk, and then the milk, if it is too sweet, should be brought to the same degree of ripeness each day, by holding or by the addition of a small starter. One of our stu- dents reports that with the Marschall rennet test used in his fac- tory, a milk that tests five or six will be sure to give a glaesler cheese, while milk at 3I/2 will not do so. It should be remem- bered that Marschall tests may vary (86), so that each maker will necessarily have to determine at what point the milk should be set by his particular test. 144 Swiss Cheese— From Milk to Curing Cellar. 145 381. Use of a Starter. Swiss makers generally use a homemade rennet, which is made up ty them each day by soaking strips of rennet in whey. It is even claimed that commercial rennet extract is not as good as the whey rennet, as the eyes cannot be obtained with it. The explanation for this probably is, that the whey used acts as a starter which supplies the necesary acid in the milk to make the rennet expel the whey sufficiently. At the same time gas germs may be added which will make a niszler cheese (276). Freu- denreich has shown that the lactic-acid germ is desired in mak- ing good Emmenthaler. By using a commercial rennet extract, after adding a good lactic acid starter, a cheese with a good de- velopment of eyes can be obtained. As this is being done in ac- tual practice it shows that the idea, prevalent among Swiss makers to the extent that it is almost a law is incorrect, that good eyes cannot be obtained with commercial rennet extract. The amount of starter required will not be as much as for Ched- dar cheese (113). Fig. 68.— Cheese kettle in a Swiss cheese factory near Monroe, Wis. The kettle hang-s on a heavy wooden crane. The front of tlie fire place over which the kettle hangs also hangs on a crane and can be swung out so that the kettle can be swung away from the fire. The opening below the grate will be seen in front of the kettle. The round cover is dropped over the top when the kettle swings forward. 146 Cheesei Making. 282. Test of Homemade Rennet Solution Not Correct. When a maker prepares his whey rennet, he tries a certain quantity of it on a sample of milk to see that it is of the right strength. If the acidity of the milk were the same each time, as well as the acidity of the whey used, this might be correct, but as a different lot of milk with a difference in acidity is used, it will be seen that this is not a correct way of determining the strength of the whey rennet. It is, therefore, better to use a commercial extract that will be of the same strength each day. 283. Swiss Kettles. Swiss cheese is made in large copper kettles that vary in size from a capacity of 600 pounds to 3000 pounds of milk. There are two kinds, the fire kettle and the steam kettle. Fig. 69. — View in a Swiss cheese factory, near Monroe, Wis., showing the kettle swung around in front of the weigh can. The cover to the fire- place has been dropped. The fire kettle hangs on a strong wooden crane and the height of the kettle is adjustable. The adjustment is obtained by means of a strong iron screw on which it hangs, and which which may influence the character of the fat given by the native cows (we know that Guernsey milk is exceptionally yellow, while passes through a nut in the crane. The kettle hangs over a fire- place. This fireplace is built in a semi-circular form just large enough to receive the kettle, and connects with a chimney for the exit of the smoke. The front of the fireplace is built of Swi^ Cheese— From Milk to Curing Cellae. 147 slieet iron, and is semi-circular in form, so that when closed it just fits around the front side of the kettle. It is hinged on the brick work en one side (the side opposite the kettle crane) and the further end cf it hangs from an iron crane which is also placed on the side of the fireplace opposite the wooden crane. By turning this crane the sheet iron front can be swung out of the way so that the kettle can be swung out into the room. When the kettle is swung out of the fireplace, this front can be closed and a sheet iron lid, hinged against the chimney, can be Fig-. 70. — Interior of Swiss cheese factory at Florence, Ohio. Steam ket- tles are used and the whey is skimmed with a centrifugal separator. dropped to cover up the hole for the kettle. A grate is placed in the bottom of the fireplace, and a fire door in the sheet iron front gives a place for the operator to tend the fire on the grate. The steam kettles are set permanently on the floor, A steam jacket is riveted on the lower part so that steam can be used for heating the milk. A plug in the bottom connects with a pipe for carrying off the whey. 284. Filling the Kettle. The milk is strained into the kettle the same as into a vat for Cheddar cheese. If a fire kettle is used the kettle may be swung in front of the receiving window. 148 Cheese Making. Milk for Swiss cheese should be paid for by fat test, the same aa for Cheddar cheese. It is sometimes claimed that rich milk does not give as good eyes as poor milk. This opinion prob- ably comes from the milk being richer in the fall when the weather is also cooler, which of course keeps the milk sweeter with the attendant result of very sweet milk. (2:81). Rich milk will make more and better Swiss cheese than poor or skimmed milk. Fig. 71. — A Wisconsin Swiss clieese factory; patrons' whey barrels in the foreground. 285. Setting the Milk. When the milk is all in the kettle the temperature should be noted. The milk has probably not been cooled at home, though it ought to have been aerated. (31.) It is therefore very likely warm enough for setting. If, however, the tempera- ture is found to be below 86° F., the milk should be warmed to that point. The rennet is then added and stirred in with a large wooden or tin scoop. The milk is put into a whirling motion in the kettle by this operation, and after stirring for four or five minutes the motion should be stopped, so that the coagulum, when it begins to form, will not be broken by the Swi^ Cheese— Fkom Milk to Curing Cellar. 149 force of the current. In the course of twenty to thirty minutes the curd should be ready to cut. 286. Cutting Swiss Curd. A Swiss curd when ready to cut should be of about the same consistency as a Cheddar curd. That is, it should make a clean break over the finger when it is inserted (119). There ought to be a cover for the kettle so that the surface of the milk will not cool off. It will be remembered that rennet will not act as rapidly when the temperature is reduced (74), and one should aim as far as practical to keep the heat from radiating from the surface. At first the curd is turned over with the scoop so that the surface coming in contact with the lower layers will warm up. After the surface has been turned over very care- fully a scoopful at a time, it is ready to be cut with the Swiss harp. 287. The Swiss Harp. The Swiss harp is so called, because it is shaped like a harp. It is an iron frame with a long wooden handle. Fine wires are strung lengthways of it about an inch apart. Tliis is carefully inserted in the curd and by circular motions across the kettle the curd is broken into pieces about an inch in diameter. 288. The Wire Stirrer. The wire stirrer is a stick five or six feet long, through one end of which a group of wires are worked into a spherical form. This is next inserted into the curd, which is brought into a circular motion around the kettle. The curd is stirred gently for a few minutes to keep it apart while it firms a little. 289. Another Method of Cutting. By means of the stirrer the curd has become about as fine as Cheddar curd. With the knives used in making Cheddar cheese (122), the curd can at once be brought to this condition without breaking and jamming it. It is from this cause that so much fat is lost in Swiss cheese making. (18) 290. Inserting the Wooden Brake. A wooden brake that is about four or five inches wide, made to fit the side of the kettle closely, is now fastened to the kettle. This breaks the current, causing an eddy in the whey 150 Cheese Making. Fig. 72. — Interior of a Swiss cheese factory, showing a cheese in the press and the means of adjusting the pressure. The small engine and churn are for making whey butter. Fig. 73. — Taking a curd out cf the kettle. The block and tackle with curd attached is run on a track over the press. Swiss Cheese— From Milk to Curing Cellar. 151 as it flows around the kettle and the heat is more evenly dis- tributed. 291. Cooking the Curd. The kettle is next moved over the fire, or the steam is turned on if it be a steam kettle. The operator stirs it vigor- ously with the wire stirrer mentioned above, and the curd breaks and contracts into pieces as fine as wheat. It is stirred until the temperature has been raised to 40° or 42° Reaumur.* After Fig. 74. — A round Swiss cheese in the hoop. The cheese is made the thickness of the hoop, and the diameter is adjusted accordingly by the rope which runs around it. A round board lies on top and presses the cheese into the hoop. the whey has reached this temperature the kettle is swung away from the fire or the steam is turned off, as the case may be. The stirring is, however, contined until the curd is quite firm, when it is allowed to settle. 292. Testing Curd for Firmness. A curd is considered firm enough for dipping when it ceases to feel mushy and will not squeak between the teeth. Some makers test the cook by squeezing it into a roll in the hand and then noting when it will break short. This is a point where the maker's judgment is very im- portant. If the curd is not cooked enough, it will result in a glaesler, and if cooked too much the fermentations will work so slow that eyes will not form. *Reaumur thermometers which start with the freezing point of water as and run to 80 at the boiling- point, are used almost entirely by Swiss makers. 40 and 42° are therefore equal to 130° and 135° Fahrenheit 152 Cheese Making. 293. Dipping the Curd. When the curd is finally firm enoug'li, the wooden brake in the side of the kettle is taken out and the curd is set whirling in the kettle so that when it settles it will collect in a lump in the middle of the kettle. It is then gathered up into a linen strainer cloth for pressing. The cloth is gathered at one edge in the hand and wet in the whey ; it is then spread out and rolled onto a flexible iron band. The opposite end is held by an assistant, or if the operator is alone, he holds it in his teeth, and then the iron band is bent into an arch and slid under the lump of curd. Fig. 75. — Block Swiss molds. A, tiie adjustable end, moved by a screw. B, the partition which fits into the grooves, making the right sized molds after the blocks are cut. C, the cover or follower. The corners of the cloth are then ti'ed together and the whole thing clraw^n up with a rope and tackle which runs on a pulley and track, like a hay fork, to the pressing table. It is claimed that if the pieces of curd that are collected at last are put into the center, they will cause the cheese to crack and from the crack a rotten place will start. The curd should therefore be put into the hoop in a lump, and as quickly as pos- sible, so that it will not become cool and brittle and therefore crack. Where there is curd enough, the lump in the kettle may be cut in two and put into two hoops in different dippings. We have seen that the curd is cooked to 135" F. ; this would seem a very high temperature for a man to put his arms into, as the maker has to do when he scoops the curd into the cloth. Some observations on this point will show that the whey cools Swiss Cheese— From Milk to Curing Cellar. 153 down to 115° or 120° before the curd is taken out, and is quite different from the other high temperature which would prob- ably scald him. 294. Pressing Drum Swiss. The pressing table is usually on a brick or stone wall and is slightly inclined so that the whey will drain off. The curd cloth with the curd in it is put into a hoop made of a band of elm wood held in circular shape by means of a cord that runs around it. The illustration shows such a hoop with a cheese in it. The hoop rests on a circular press board while a similar Fig. 76. — Curing cellar in a Swiss cheese factory, near Monroe, Wis. The large drum Swiss cheese are on the shelves. The small boiler supplies steam for moisture when too dry. board is placed on the top of it. The hoop is adjusted in diame- ter by means of the cord so that the curd a little more than fills it. For the first fifteen minutes it is pressed lightly, then a lit- tle more pressure is applied, and in half an hour full pressure is put on. It is turned several times a day, the cloth being taken off and readjusted each time. There are usually two cloths used in the operation, one cloth lying imderneath, and the other 154 Cheese Making. spread over the top and tucked in between the hoop and the cheese. Dry cloths are put on several times during the day. The cloths should be kept clean by thorough washing and scald- ing. Tie press may be worked partially by means of a screw as shown in the illustration, but the main pressure is obtained by placing a post between the cheese board and a heavy be.am. The post is close to the fulcrum end of the beam, while the long, heavy end of the beam gives the pressure. Fig. 77. — Biock Swiss under pressure in individual molds. 295. Pressing Block Swiss. Block Swiss is practically the same as a round Swiss in every way but the form in which it is pressed. It i:3 first pressed into a rectangular cake twenty inches wide and six inches thick, A sliding end regulated by a screw adjusts the volume of the mold to the quantity of the curd. It is turned and pressed in this mold just like a drum Swiss for the first twelve hours. It is then cut into blocks six inches wide and put into another mold with partitions in it just large enough for each piece. Some- Swiss Cheese— From Milk to Curing Cellar. 155 times, however, the curd is pressed from the start in a mold six inches wide by six inches deep and twenty inches long. 296. Marking Cheese. When a cheese has been in the press twenty-four hours it is taken out. It should be perfectly square at the edges with no wrinkles left in it by folds in the cloth. A black paste made of butter and lampblack is used for marking the date on the cheese. It is just as important to keep a record of the way a Swiss curd may act as it is with a Cheddar curd (192). Such a record will enable the maker to follow the cheese in the curing cellar. 297. Salting the Cheese in Brine. Most makers salt their cheese in a brine bath. A tank of brine is kept in a cool room, sometimes in the cellar. The brine is made up by dissolving salt in water until the brine formed is dense enough to float an egg. As cheese are salted in the bath and absorb the salt, it is necessary to renew the salt quite often. The cheese is immersed in the brine, turning it over Fig. 78.— Block Swiss cheese in cellar at a factory, near Monroe, Wis ihe large brush B on the post is used for washing drum Swiss cheese. The brine tank A is seen in the illustration. 156 Cheese Making, occasionally, as the cheese will float and the top rise a little above the surface. A cheese is kept in the brine for three or four days, according to the amount of salt it is desired to work into it. 298. Salting with Dry Salt. Some makers do not use a brine bath for salting, but scatter coarse salt en top of the cheese. The cheese is kept on a shelf in the cellar, with a salting hoop around it. This hoop is used simply to keep the cheese from spreading while it is soft. The salt draws moisture from the cheese. This moisture dissolves the salt and acts as a medium for the transmission of the salt to the interior of the cheese. No more salt should be applied than can be absorbed over night, so that the cheese will be dry next morning. It is claimed that with the brine method the salt is applied more evenly to all parts of the cheese. A cheese is salted with dry salt from three to five days. If gas shows in a cheese by its huffing or bloating, a little more salt applied to that locality will check the gas. QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XV. 1. What is the cause of glaesler cheese? 2. How much acid should milk for Swiss cheese have before setting! 3. How may the acidity of milk for Swiss cheese be determined? 4. Why are makers more likely to have glaesler cheese in the fall months than in summer ? 5. What is the effect of whey rennet, with regard to the acidity of milk ? 6. What danger is there! with regard to gassy fermentations when whey rennet is used? 7. What is the probable cause of glaesler cheese when commer- cial rennet is used and how may this be remedied? 8. How much lactic acid starter may be used in milk to be made into Swiss cheese? 9. Why is the test for strength of whey rennet as generally practiced in factories not correct? 10. To what other cause than rich milk can glaesler cheese in the fall be attributed? 11. What effect on yield and quality of cheese does the butter fat have ? 12. At what temperature should milk for Swiss cheese be set? 13. What are the two classes of cop- per kettles used? 14. How are the fire kettles kindled? 15. Why i.s the current of milk around the kettle stopped in a few Swiss Cheese— From JMilk to Curing Cellar. 157 minutes after adding the rennet"? 16. When is a Swiss curd ready to cut ? 17. How much rennet should be used in making Swiss cheese. 18. How is a Swiss curd cut? 19. Describe a Swiss harp. 20. Why is a Cheddar curd knife better for cut- ting a Swiss curd than a Swiss harp ? 21. What is the purpose of the wooden brake placed in the side of the kettle while heating the curd. 22. At what temperature should a Swiss curd be cooked? 23. How do the Reaumur and Fahrenheit scales compare? 24. When is a curd sufficiently firm for dipping? 25. What is the efi:ect of an over-cook? 26. What is the effect of an under-cook? 27. How is the curd gathered into a lump or cake when firm enough to dip? 28. How is the press cloth put around the cake? 29. How is the curd transferred from the kettle to the pressing table? 30. How is a drum Swiss pressed? 31. How is the hoop or mold adjusted? 32. AA^hy should care be taken in putting the last pieces of curd with the lump on the press? 33. What trouble may result if the curd cracks? 34. How are the cloths adjusted on the cheese? 35. How is a cheese marked? 36. What are the two methods of salt- ing Swiss cheese ? 37. How strong should the brine be made? 38. How long is a cheese left in the brine? 39. How is a cheese dry salted? 40. What advantage is claimed for brine salting over dry salting? CHAPTEK XVI. SWISS CHEESE-WORK IN THE CELLAR. 299. Starting the Eyes. From the salting shelf or brine tank the cheese is taken to the curing cellar. The curing covers two stages and the cheese should be handled in two cellars to secure the proper conditions for a perfect curing. The first curing cellar should be kept at a temperature of about 70° F. At this temperature the gassy fermentations set in and start the eyes. By tapping the cheese with the finger, the eyes can be located, for the cheese will be- gin to sound hollow. Care should be taken to prevent the eyes from forming too much in one part. Eyes may be checked by salt, or they may be developed by a little higher temperature and more moisture. As a cheese dries out the eyes are checked. A steam jet in the cellar will provide desired moisture. 300. Reason for Making Block Swiss. Block Swiss are handy for cutting. Sometimes where the fermentations are hard to control, block Swiss is made instead of the round variety, for the blocks being smaller, gassy fermen- tations can be checked quicker, and on the other hand, where the eyes are slow in forming they can be coaxed easier. 301. Handling on the Shelves. The large round cheese is kept on a round cheese board. By this means the cheese can be easily handled. It is kept free from mold by frequent scrubbing with a long-handled brush made for the purpose. When it becomes necessary to turn a cheese, it is carried on the board to a table, where it is flopped over onto another board of the same kind. The turning of the cheese at the press is done in like manner. 302. The Second Cellar. After the eyes have been well started, the cheese is trans- ferred to a second cellar which is kept at about 60° F. Here 158 Swiss Cheese— TVork ix the Cell.vr. 159 the eyes may still develop slowly, but they should not bloat the cheese. If a maker attempts to ciu-e cheese in one cellar, he will be likely either not to get the eyes started, or if they do start they may develop too far. 303. Handling Block Swiss in Cellar. Block Swiss being smaller than the drum cheese are more easily handled. They should be washed often enough to keep them clean from mold. Care should be taken, however, not to keep them wet. for in that case the rinds will soften. 304. Length of Curing Period. Swiss cheese cures slowly. As previously explained, the enzymes in the milk break down the hard curd into soluble peptones. This process takes a niunber of months and a fine Swiss cheese should be at least eight or ten months old before it is rtady for consumption. 305. Boxing Drum Swiss. Drum Swiss are shipped in large tubs. The tub is made a little tapering, and to fit the diameter of the cheese. First a large round scale board is put in the bottom of the tub. A cheese that just fills the tub in diameter is lifted in and pressed tight against the bottom. Another scale board next follows and on top of this another cheese is crowded. In this way probably six cheese are put in a tub. On top of the last a scale board is placed and then the circular cover is forced down on top. by the maker standing on it and gently crowding on all sides. With this pressure on it the cover is nailed into place. In this way the cheese will be prevented from moving and injuiw dur- ing transportation. Quite often a thousand pounds of cheese will be filled into one tub. If the cheese has to stand in stor- age a long time, especially if warm, it may sweat some and the scale boards wiU prevent the cheese sticking together and spoil- ing the rinds. 306. Boxing Block Swiss. Block Swiss is put up in boxes six inches deep, twenty inches wide and three feet long. Such a box will hold a row of six cheese. A paper is put in the bottom of the box. scale boards between the cheese, and another paper on top. The method of grading cheese has been explained (,216). 160 Cheese INIaking. 307. Whey Butter. It has been explained that in the methods of making Swiss cheese more fat is lost in the whey than in the manufacture of Cheddar. It is the general practice in Swiss factories to make butter from the whey. In the great majority of factories this butter is little more than grease. The reason for this is that very crude methods are employed in its manufacture. The fat as it rises on the whey is soft because it is warm. Under these warm conditions bad fermentations are at work causing poor flavors. The cream obtained is churned without being properly cooled with ice and the grain of the butter is therefore soft and greasy. The grease thus obtained sells for about ten cents a pound. By the use of a separator a much more efficient skimming can be done, and the cream will be thick. With ice and a proper vat for holding the cream, the butter fat can be hard- ened and the cream ripened slowly, thereby securing fairly good flavors. If the cream be churned at a low temperature, an effi- cient churning will be possible, and a good grain and a fair flavor be obtained in the butter. If this butter is held in a re- frigerator until shipping, a much better price can be obtained for it than for the grease now often sold as whey butter. A number of factories where the whey is skimmed by a separator and the cream properly ripened, are turning out butter that sells for full market price, whereas the factories that are mak- ing whey butter in the old way receive only half this price. It pays to do things right. QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XVI. 1. At what temperature should Swiss cheese be kept to start the eyes? 2. How may the location of eyes in the cheese be determined? 3. How may an over development of eyes in local points in a cheese be checked! 4. What is the effect of a dry atmosphere on the development of eyes? 6. How may moisture be supplied to a cheese cellar ? 7. What is the advan- tage in making block Swiss, instead of drum Swiss. 8. How are drum Swiss handled on the shelves? 9. How is a drum Swiss cheese turned? 10. Why are two curing rooms necessary Swiss Cheese— Work in the Cellar. 161 in manufacturing Swiss cheese? 11, At what temperature should the first and the second cellar be kept ? 12. "Why should old and new cheese not be kept in the same cellar? 13. How often should Swiss cheese be washed? 14. What will be the effect of keeping the cheese too damp 1 15. How long is it nec- essary to cure Swiss cheese? 16. How are drum Swiss cheese shipped? 17. What is the use of the scale board between the rinds? 18. Why should the cheese be crowded into the tub? 19. How many cheese are placed in a tub and what is their aggregate weight? 20. What is the size of a box for block Swiss ? 21. How many cheese are put in a box ? 22. How can whey butter be made to bring a much better price than is now usually obtained for it? 12 CHAPTER XVII. BRICK CHEESE. 308. Characteristics of Brick Cheese. Brick cheese is probably so called because it is made in the form of a brick, and bricks are used for pressing the cheese in the mold. Brick cheese has a milder flavor than Cheddar; it is moist and suits a large number of people who are especially fond of mild cheese. It can be cut into thin slices which do not crumble and this brings it into favor. It generally contains small holes, but does not have the large eyes of Swiss cheese. It is softer than Swiss, but not so soft as Limburger. The real difference between brick and Lim- burger is that the former contains less moisture and is cured in a drier atmosphere than the latter; these conditions of mois- ture inside and outside the cheese influence the character of the fermentations in it. 309. Quality of Milk Required. For brick cheese, the milk should not be as ripe as milk for Cheddar, and on the other hand it should not be so sweet that the rennet will not expel the whey properly, for it will then have a tendency toward Limburger in the softness of the texture and the gas germs may get more of an ascendency in the cheese than when the milk is ripened further before setting. If the milk is ripe enough so that the curd will string on the hot-iron before it can be gotten out of the whey, a Cheddar flavor will develop. One of the finest Cheddar flavors that the author has ever observed, was in a brick cheese in which one ■eighth of an inch of acid was developed on the curd at the time of dipping. 310. Milk, When Received. ^ It is evident that milk may be received but once a day if it is properly cared for, in fact it will be less liable to develop 162 Brick Cheese. 163 gas in the cheese if the milk is a few hours old. On the other hand, milk that is over-ripe cannot be used without destroying the peculiar character of brick cheese. The rennet test and the acid test previously described (82 and 136) are of importance in obtaining milk of the proper acidity for brick cheese. If the milk is found to be very sweet, a lactic ferment starter may be added, so that a pure lactic acid fermentation may predominate over the gas forms, and thereby secure a cheese with fewer holes. 311. Quantity of Rennet Required. Brick cheese is a quick curing cheese, and a little more rennet is used than for a medium curing Cheddar. The milk will, of course, be a little sweeter than for Cheddar and enough rennet is used to coagulate it in twenty minutes. 312. How Cooked. Brick cheese is made in a steam vat; it is set at 86° F., the curd cut and the temperature raised for firming, the same as with Cheddar cheese. The temperature at which the firming takes place depends on the acidity of the milk. "With milk nearly as ripe as for Cheddar, 108° F. will do, while 118° or 120° may be required for very sweet milk. The temperature usually employed is about 114° F. 313. Testing Curd for Firmness. Curd, when ready to dip, should feel as firm as curd for Cheddar cheese. An over cook will make the cheese dry and corky, and an under cook will make a soft cheese approaching a Limburger. 314. Dipping the Curd. When the curd is firm enough, the whey is drawn off so that only enough is left in the vat to keep the curd from matting together. A few handfuls of salt per 1000 pounds of milk are then added to the curd for the supposed reason of checking gas fermentations, but as the salt dissolves in the whey and runs away, this operation can be of little use. Some makers are in the habit of salting the milk by placing salt in the strainer when the milk is running into the vat, to check the develop- ment of acid and gas. This, however, is positively injurious to ib4 Cheese Making. the milk as it retards rennet action (92) and does not accom- plish the object sought. 315. Brick Cheese Molds. The brick cheese mold is a. rectangular box without bottom or top. The common size is ten inches long by five inches wide and eight inches deep. In some localities they are eight and a half instead of ten inches in length. I" ig. 79. — Brick and LimlDurg-er cheese molds. A, molds. B, follower. C, draining- board. Slits sawed on the inside enable the whey to more readily escape. Sometimes molds are made of perforated tin, but they do not hold the temperature as well as wood. 316. Draining Table. These molds are placed on a draining table. The table is about thirty inches wide, by six, eight or ten feet long, and in- clined toward one end. A guard two inches high is fastened to the upper end and sides. A half -inch strip is fastened along the inside of this guard on which to rest the draining boards. Brick Cheese. 165 317. Draining Boards. These draining boards are a foot or sixteen inches wide and have several rows of inch holes bored through them. These boards are laid in the drainage table with their ends resting on the half-inch strips referred to above. A cloth, such as is used on the racks in Cheddar cheese manufacture, is thrown over the draining board, and the molds are set side by side on top cf this cloth. Fig. -80.— Brick cheese in the molds. A cloth is placed under the molds. 318. Filling the Molds. The table is placed close to the vat, and the operator stands between it and the vat. With a curd pail he dips the curd out of the vat and fills it into the molds. The whey goes through the cloth and the holes in the draining boards, and rims down the table into a whey gutter. Care should be exercised to get just the same amount of curd into each mold so that the cheese, when the curd is all pressed tight together, will be about three or four inches thick, and will weigh six pounds whiJe green. Wooden followers that just fit in the molds are then put on top of the curd. 319- Pressing the Cheese. One or two bricks are placed on top of the follower in each mold for pressure. In an hour or two the mold is turned over and the pressure applied to the other side. This may be done 166 Cheese ]\Iaking. several times during the twenty-four houi-s the cheese is in press. 320. Salting the Cheese. At the end of twenty-four hours, the cheese is taken out of the molds and salted in a salting room, which is really a cellar room between the making room and the curing cellar. The salting table is built like the draining or pressing table, with the exceptions that the sides are ten or twelve inches high and there are no draining boards laid on it. Fig. 81. — Round Brick or Imitation Munster cheese in the tin molds. Each cheese is rubbed with salt on all sides of it. The salt dissolves and penetrates to the interior of the cheese, at the same time expelling moisture which runs off from the table. When the cheese is partially salted, the surface is scraped with a tool which is much like a piece of a saw blade. The small teeth scrape up small particles of the curd which are rubbed into the little crevices left between the particles of curd, and in this way a smooth rind is formed. The salting usually extends over three days, the cheese being turned each day and a little coarse salt being laid en the upper side. The cheese are piled two or three layers deep, being laid on their broad sides. They may be piled deeper each day. 321. Curing the Cheese. From the salting table the cheese is carried to the curing cellar, where it is laid on tiers of shelves: arranged around the room. These shelves are ten or twelve inches apart. The cheese m Brick Cheese. 167 are laid on their broad sides for a week or two until they begin to cure, when they may be laid on their edges. The cellar should be kept at a temperature of about 60° F. and the relative humidity should be 80 to 90 per cent. This, it will be seen, is a little higher than is best for Cheddar cheese. With such a humid atmosphere the cheese will probably mold, and the maker is kept busy washing the mold off from the cheese. He should get around to wash each cheese once or twice a week, and if necessary oftener. The water used may be clear water, or it may have a little salt dissolved in it. Fig-. S2. — Brick and Munster cheese in curing cellar. 322. Appearance of Gas, Remedy. If gas appears in the cheese it will huff up and bulge out at the ends, sides and edges. Where this occurs to any great extent the value of the cheese is reduced, and the best remedy is to apply the Wisconsin curd test to the milk and eliminate the cause. The value of this test was first demonstrated in brick- cheese factories. 323. Curing Process. A plug from a green cheese will be very harsh to the feel, and the plug will bend like rubber. In the course of about two weeks the harshness begins to disappear, and the cheese will break down in the fingers, and mold like wax, though it is some- what softer and the plug more elastic than Cheddar. 168 Cheese Making. Brick cheese is usually shipped when it is a month old. If cured slowly, it is better at two months old, but being softer it is not as long lived as Cheddar. 324. How the Cheese is Shipped. When brick cheese is ready to ship, it is wrapped in a good quality of Manilla paper and packed in rectangular boxes that are twenty inches wide, five inches deep, and three feet long, the same size as a Limburger box and one inch shallower than a block Swiss box. Each box will hold twenty to twenty-five cheese, and the net weight of the cheese in the box will be one hundred and five to one hundred and twenty pounds. The box weighs about fifteen pounds more. 325. Fancy Styles. It has been pointed out that the market calls for odd sizes and shapes of Cheddar at higher prices than for the large Ched- dar form. The same thing is true of brick cheese. A round cheese called a Munster is made in the same way as brick, ex- cepting that the molds are round, and made of tin with holes punched in the sides for the whey to more readily drain out. Being round they are always laid on the flat ends to keep them in shape. The salting and curing is the same as for brick, as is also the method of shipping. QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XVII. 1. Why is brick cheese called by that name? 2. What are the characteristics of brick cheese? 3. What quality of milk is required for brick cheese? 4. How often should milk be re- ceived? 5. What can be said about the use of a lactic ferment starter in milk for brick cheese? 6. How much rennet should be used to set milk for brick cheese ? 7. In what kind of a milk receptacle is brick cheese made? 8. How does the temperature, at which the curd should be cooked, vary with the acidity of the milk? 9. How firm should the curd be for dipping? 10. What would be the effect in the cheese of an over-cook? 11. What would be the effect of an under-cook? 12. How far is the whey drawn off from the curd before dipping? 13. Describe a brick cheese mold. 14. Describe a draining table and draining boards. 15. What kind of a cloth is used to cover the draining boards? . Brick Cheese. 169 16. How is tke curd filled into the molds? 17. What are the dimensions and weight of a brick cheese 1 18. How is the pres- sure applied to the cheese? 19. How long is the cheese kept in the molds. 20. Describe a salting table. 21. How are brick cheese salted? 22. How are the little crevices on the surface between particles of curd filled in ? 23. How long is the cheese salted? 24. At what temperature should brick cheese be cured? 25. What should be the relative humidity of the air in the cel- lar? 26. Why and how often should the cheese be washed? 27. What physical change does brick cheese undergo in cur- ing? 28. How is brick cheese packed for shipment? 29. How long should brick cheese be cured? 30. How does the life of brick cheese compare with that of Cheddar and Swiss, and why ? 31. What is Munster cheese and how is it made ? CHAPTER XVIII. LIMBURGER CHEESE. 326. Origin of Limburger. Limburger cheese is of foreign origin, having come from the province of Liittich in Belgium. Its manufacture in this country is, however, carried on by Swiss and German rather than by Belgian emigrants. 327. Characteristics of Limburger. Limburger is perhaps more generally known by its odor than by anything else. Many people who have never tasted it recognize the odor. But while it is kept cool it does not have such a pronounced odor as Avhen warm. It is found on the market in blocks five inches square and about two inches thick, wrapped in Manilla paper and tinfoil. It has a soft texture and a yellowish color. 328. Kind of Milk Required. Limburger is made from sweet milk. Except where the milk is gassy, very sweet milk is not an objection as with Swiss or brick cheese, for the reason that it is to be made soft and pasty anyway, and if the milk were too ripe the rennet would expel too much moisture. 329. Utensils Used. A steam vat and curd knives, like those used for Cheddar and brick cheese are used in the manufacture of Limburger. A draining table like those used for brick cheese is also used but the molds and subsequent handling are different than for brick. 330. Setting the Milk. As the milk used may be sweeter than for brick it should be set at 90° F., which is a little higher temperature than is used in making brick cheese. It is probably made up twice a day 170 LiMBURGER Cheese. 171 and its temperature when received may be a little higher than this. If it happens to be higher it can be set at the tem- perature it has without cooling to 90°. Enough rennet should be used to coagulate the milk in twenty to thirty minutes. 331. Cooking Limburger Curd. The curd is cut when as firm as for Cheddar and brick, that is, when it will break over the finger with a clean fracture. The curd is stirred and the temperature raised in the same man- ner as for the above mentioned kinds with the exception that the firming is done at a lower temperature. Ninety-six degrees is the temperature at which it is usually cooked. If the milk is very sweet the temperature must necessarily be a little higher than when some acid has developed. The curd is dipped when a little softer than in making brick cheese. 332. Dipping the Curd. When the curd is firm enough the whey is drawn down so that it just covers the curd as is done in making brick cheese. The Limburger mold is made just like the brick mold with the exception that it is twenty inches long instead of ten. The curd is dipped into these molds and allowed to settle together, brick pressure being applied. After about half an hour it may be turned over. After resting in this position for fifteen or twenty minutes the mold is lifted from the cheese^ which is then a block five by twenty inches, and two and a half to three inches thick. It is next divided into four sections. so that each section will be five inches square. The cutting may be done with a common large bladed knife, but a better contrivance is a knife with three blades five inches apart. It is made in the following manner: A heavy piece of tin five inches wide and fifteen inches long is reinforced by a strong wire in the edge. Three pieces of heavy tin, four inches wide by five inches long, with the ends turned over to stiffen them, are soldered five inches apart on one side of the large piece of metal. By simply pressing this instrument down on the block of curd, the three blades cut it into four equal sized cakes. 333' Limburger Pressing Table. The cakes are next transferred very carefully to the press- table. This can hardly be called a press, as the cheese get ine- 172 Cheese Making. no pressure beyond their own weight. The table is like the draining table with sides four inches high, but no draining boards are used. A rectangular frame the size of the table fits inside the table. The rows of the cakes are placed along one side and are divided by wooden partitions four inches high and five inches long. When the row is completed a long strip, the length Fig. 83. — Limburger molds on pressing table, showing the long pieces and the short partitions between. of the table, is placed against the row and another row is laid down. In this manner several rows are laid down and the last long strip held in place by several sticks wedged in between the strip and the opposite side of the table. The cakes are turned a number of times in order to drain them and firm the surfaces. The temperature of the room should be about 60° F. In twenty-four hours the cheese go to the salting table. 334. Salting Limburger. Limburger is salted in much the same way as brick cheese. First the edges are rolled over in a box of salt and then salt rubbed on the two broad surfaces. It is laid on the draining table in single layers for the first day. The second day it is LiMBURGEB Cheese. 173 salted again in the same way and piled in two layers ; the third day it is salted again and piled three or four layers deep. Lim- burger is salted on the average about four days. 335. Curing Limburger. The curing of Limburger is a putrefactive fermentation. It goes from the salting table to the curing shelves, where the cakes are laid on their broad sides. They are washed every day with water to keep them moist and free from mold. The atmosphere of the cellar should have a relative humidity of 95 and the temperature should be about 58° to 63° F. Under these conditions the surface soon begins to get shiny and soft and change from white to a reddish yellow. This works its way to the center, changing the harsh curd to a soft condition. After about ten days the cheese may be set close together on their edges. This change requires from four to six weeks to work to the center, and the cheese is then ready to ship. 336. Shipping Limburger. The cheese is first wrapped in Manilla paper and then in tinfoil and is packpd in boxes twenty inches wide, five inches Fig. 84. — Limburger cellar. In front is the salting table with the cheese in the salt. In the foreground is a box containing salt. The cheese may be seen on the shelves. 174 Cheese Making. deep and thirty-six inches long. It may be held in storage for a month or two longer before it reaches the consumer, but be- ing soft it is not long lived. 337. Cause of the Putrefactive Fermentation. The main cause of the putrefactive fermentation is the ex- tremely moist condition in which it is kept. It may be brought about in harder cheese like brick and Cheddar, if they are kept wet, or come in contact with each other or a moist wall, in a very moist atmosphere. QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XVIII. 1. Where did Limburger cheese originate? 2. "What are the characteristics of Limburger? 3. In what kind of packages is Limburger found in the market ? 4. What quality of milk is required for Limburger cheese ? 5. What kind of vat and curd knives are used? 6. At what temperature is the milk set? 7. At what temperature is the curd firmed? 8. What would be the effect of over-ripe milk on the cheese? 9. How firm should the curd be when ready to dip? 10. What kind of a mold is used and what are its dimensions? 11. How much pressure is applied to the curd in the molds ? 12. What is the treatment of the curd in the molds? 13. Into what sized blocks is the curd cut when the mold is removed? 14. How is the curd cut into blocks? 15. Describe a pressing table. 16. How long is the cheese left on the pressing table? 17. How is the cheese salted? 18. How long is the cheese left in the salt? 19. How is Limburger handled in the curing room? 20. How long is Limburger in curing and what is the physical change that takes place? 21. How is Limburger packed for market? 22. What conditions especially favor the characteristic fermentation of Limburger ? CHAPTER XIX. EDAM CHEESE. 338. Characteristics of Edam Cheese. In our best grocery stores one sees cheese put up in the form of round balls about six inches in diameter. They are colored a dark red or are of a bright yellow color, or may be wrapped in tinfoil. Each cheese weighs about four pounds and sells for a dollar, or at the rate of twenty-five cents per pound. The texture is perfectly solid and has a flavor much like an old Cheddar excepting that it is a little more salty and is a little harder. 339. Origin of Edam Cheese By referring to a map of Holland it will be seen that North Holland is the portions of the country lying east and west of the Zuyder Zee. Edam is situated on the Zuyder Zee, about twelve miles northeast of Amsterdam. Edam cheese, together with Gouda, is made in other parts of Holland, ^'s- ss.-Map of Holland, but that portion north of the North Sea canal on which Amster- dam is situated, and west of the Zuyder Zee, is especially de- voted to Edam cheese. Every week markets are held at Edam, Purmerend, Alkmaar and Hoorn for the sale of cheese. 340. Farming in Holland. A large part of the country is below the sea level. Shallow lakes or seas like the Zuyder Zee have been surrounded by dikes, and the water pumped out, leaving level stretches of land that grows luxuriant crops. The cattle are of the breed 175 176 Cheese Making. Fig. 86. — Dutch farmers washing cattle at the canal in Purmerend. Fig. 87. — A Dutch farm scene In the Beemster Polder. Cattle in the barnyard just before milking time. Edam Cheese. 177 known in this country as Holstein-Friesian. There are a few cheese factories, but the farmer usually makes his milk into cheese in his own dairy. The utensils are crude, the milk being set in a wooden tub and the necessary rises in temperature secured by heating a part of the milk or whey in a kettle and adding it to that in the tub. The cheese room, stable, living apartments and tool rooms are usually all under one roof. In May the cattle are turned out in the fields until November, and the stables are cleaned out and generally used for curing rooms. As there is a lack of wood for lumber the houses are built of stone or brick, which holds the temperature, and as the country is surrounded and tempered by the sea, ideal conditions are naturally present for curing cheese. The factories have vats which are heated by steam as in this country. 341. Edam Cheese in Holland. Edam cheese has been classed with the sweet-curd cheese, but the best quality of it approaches very closely to Cheddar cheese. Hollanders have considerable trouble with the gassy fermentati-/ns, and use a starter of sour whey which contains Fig. 88.— Farm buildings at De Rijp, North Holland. 178 Cheese Making. a lactic-acid germ. The milk is made up once a day, which gives the night's milk a chance to ripen. The author observed sour Edams in the factories and dairies, and on the markets, which shows that the lactic acid sometimes gets the start of the makers. The purpose of the whey starter is to check the gaseous fermentations. Fig. 89. — C^uring--room of an Edam cheese factory at Hoogskarpsel in North Holland. .' '^ 342. Treatment of Cheese for Market. The cheese is marketed when it is about a month old. It may mold some on the shelves, and is therefore washed and then dried. A coat of linseed oil is rubbed over the surface making the cheese shine. It is loaded into carts without boxing and carried to market. 343. Description of an Edam Market. On arriving at the market, which is a large open space, paved with stones, in the middle of the city, straw is first laid down on the pavement and the cheese piled on it in pyramidal pile like so many cannon balls. The pile is covered over with a cloth to protect it from the heat of the sun. When the mar- ket opens, buyers pass among the piles and try a sample from Edam Cheese. 179 each pile with a trier the same as is done with other cheese. If the bargain is closed the salesman and buyer shake hands as if they would never let go, but if on the contrary no bargain is made, the buyer goes on and the salesman turns the plugged cheese over and places it in the bottom of the pile, and awaits the next inspection of his goods. When the cheese is sold, it is placed on skids, which will hold about 150 cheese, and official Fig-. 90. — The weekly cheese market at Hoorn, North Hol'and. The mar- ket tauilding-s where the cheese is weighed is just beyond the statue. weighers place it upon large balances in the market building and balance the cheese with official weights. The buyer then takes possession of his cheese. The price paid will probably correspond to the price paid for Cheddar in this country. The best cheese reach this country, but are not consumed until they are eight, ten or possibly twelve months old. The fine charac- teristic flavor cannot be developed in less time, and it must be developed at a temperature not to exceed 65° F. When it is cured, the cheese may be smoothed down in a turning lathe. The red color is obtained by immersing it for half a minute in an alcoholic solution of carmine. 180 Cheese Making. 344. Possibilities of Manufacture in America. As the milk in America is generally richer, the sanitary- conditions better, and the climate conditions can be artificially supplied, it is possible to make an Edam in this country that is fully equal, if not superior, to the best imported Edam. 345. Market for Edam in America. Edam as sold at wholesale in this country, is packed in cases of one dozen cheese each or about fifty pounds, and sells Fig. 91. — Weighing Edam cheese at the market at Hoorn. at about $7.50 per case. This is fifteen cents per pound, and ought to encourage the manufacture of this kind of cheese. Many wholesale houses are very anxious to buy it in large quantities. 346. Method of Manufacture. The description already given will give a fair idea of Edam cheese as found in Holland. As the methods of manufacture used in Holland are crude, the method here given will be for practical and scientific conditions as found in America. Edam Cheese. 181 347. Quality of Milk Required. As has been explained, Edam is really a cheese in which the lactic fennentation is developed. The milk then must he such as is used for Cheddar, and the aciditj' should be deter- mined by the rennet test in like manner; in fact, the milk should be colored and set, and the curd cut and firmed in the same manner as for Cheddar. When one-eighth of an inch of acid shows on the hot iron (corresponding to .2 per cent acid), the whey should be drawn and the curd stirred free from whey. 348. Handling the Curd for Edam. The curd is held for a time in the vat or curd sink in a granular ccndition, to air and develop acid, until it will string half an inch to an inch on the iron, and then it goes into the molds. 349. Edam Molds, The molds for Edam cheese, as found in Holland, are mostly made of wood, but manufacturers of dairy supplies in this country have found difficulty in making them of wood, so Inside of Top. Fig. 92.— Edam Cheese Molds. that they will hold their shape and not check. They are there- fore making castiron molds which are turned down and gal- vanized. Each mold consists of two parts— a bottom part shaped like a bowl with hemispherical bottom ; and a top, the interior of which is a true hemisphere that fits into the bottom 182 Cheese Making. part, and when pushed into it leaves an interior space perfectly spherical. The two halves have flanges on the ends which make them set squarely against other molds or the press heads. Holes drilled through these flanges enable the maker to insert an iron hook and pull the top and bottom apart. Several small holes through the ends of the halves allow the whey to escape from the imprisoned curd. 350. Method of Pressing. In Holland two cheese go in a press together, one mold on top of the other with a wooden 4x4, 3 feet long, placed above them both for pressure. A Young- America gang press is bet- ter than this, as it saves both labor and space. 351. Hooping the Curd. The curd is packed in the mold as tight as it can be crowded with the hands, and is rounded oif on top. The cover is placed on top and the mold placed in the press. Pressure is applied g-radually for a few minutes and full pressure put on in ten minutes. In half an hour the cheese is taken out and dressed. 352. Dressing Edam Cheese. If just the right amount of curd is placed in the mold, the cheese will be spherical and not much of a paring will have to be taken off where the edge of the two hemispheres meet. A bandage of cheese cloth is now wet with warm Avater and wrapped around the cheese, and a small cap laid on each end. This coming between the iron mold and curd makes the cheese close perfectly. Care should be taken to lap the cloth evenly so that when taken oft' from the cheese deep wrinkles will not be left. The cheese is pressed for the remainder of twenty hours. It is then taken out, and if desired, the bandage may be taken off immediately, or it may be left until later to prevent cracking. It can, however, probably be taken off more easily when fresh from the mold. 353. Salting Edam Cheese. The cheese is now rubbed with salt and placed in a salting cup. This is a cup slightly larger than the bottom part of the mold. It holds the cheese in shape and allows a thin layer of salt on the underside. It is salted daily, turning it each time, until it feels hard. It then goes to the curing shelves. Edam Cheese. 183 354. Curing Edam Cheese. The curing process is practically the same as for Cheddar, and the same conditions must be obtained; that is, a tempera- ture of about sixty degrees and a relative humidity of about eighty. 355. Shelves for New Cheese. The shelves for the new cheese have holes about two inches in diameter reamed out on the top side so that the cheese does not get out of shape, setting squarely on its end. After a month or six weeks it can be set on end without injury to the cheese. Of course, each cheese is turned and rubbed every day or two, and if any tendency to crack occurs (which is one of the seri- ous difficulties that will be met) a very little salt scattered on the surface will check this tendency. When the cheese is a month old, a little cheese grease or oil rubbed on the surface will prevent a too rapid drying out. 356. Length of Curing Period. This kind of cheese will not be a success unless it is cured at a temperature not to exceed sixty-five degrees for at least eight or ten months. A year of curing will be better. The fine flavor comes from the lactic-acid fermentation to start with, and then a slow curing in which the curd is changed to soluble peptones, such as give this cheese and Cheddar their particular flavors. 357- Preparing the Cheese for Market. The cheese, when fully cured, should be washed and then scraped or turned down in a lathe. If the fancy requires it, the rind may be colored with an alcoholic solution of carmine, as previously indicated, and then wrapped in tinfoil to prevent further evaporation. A box 18x24 inches, six inches deep will hold a dozen cheese. Paper should be put in the top and bottom of the box and thin pieces of board placed between them. QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XIX. 1. What are the characteristics of Edam cheese? 2. Where did Edam cheese originate? 3. What is peculiar about the farms in Holland? 4. What breed of cattle is kept in Holland? 184 Cheese Making. 5. Do farm dairies or cheese factories predominate ? 6. In what kind of a vessel is the cheese made and how is the tempera- ture regulated? 7. Of what material are the houses in Hol- land built, and how does this affect the temperature of the curing rooms? 8. What are the climatic conditions in Holland in regard to the conditions for curing cheese? 9. Is Edam a sweet-curd or an acid-curd cheese? 10. What kind of a starter is used in Holland? 11. What is the purpose of the whey starter as understood by the Dutchmen? 12. How is the cheese in Holland treated for marketing? 13. Where are the princi- pal cheese markets in North Holland held? 14. What kind of Edams reach the consumer in the United States ? 15. How are some of the cheese colored? 16. What conditions are necessary to obtain a fine Edam cheese? 17. What are the possibilities for the manufacture of Edam in America? 18!. Wliat kind of a market is there for Edam in this country ? 19. What quality of milk is required for Edam cheese? 20. How is the milk treated until the whey is drawn? 21. How much acid should there be on the curd at the time of dipping? 22. How long and in w^hat condition is the curd held until ready for the press? 23. Of what material are Edam molds in Holland made? 24. Of what material are they made in this country? 25. Describe an Edam mold. 26. What kind of press is re- quired for pressing Edams? 27. How is the curd put into the mold? 28. How long is the cheese left in the press before dressing? 29. How is an Edam cheese dressed? 30. How long is an Edam cheese pressed? 31. What particular care should be taken in dressing the cheese? 32. Why is the bandage used on the cheese? 33. Wlien is the bandage removed? 34. What is one of the most serious difficulties to be met with in the manu- facture of Edam? 35. How is Edam salted? 36. How long is Edam cheese salted? 37. How may cheese be prevented from cracking? 38. On what kind of shelves should the new cheese be placed and why? 39. How long should cheese be cured? 40. Upon what conditions does the flavor of Edam cheese de- pend? 41. How are Edams prepared for market? CHAPTER XX. COTTAGE, NEUFCHATEL AND SOFT CREAM CHEESE. 358. Utilization of Skim Milk. A great many city dairies that turn a large part of their milk into cream have skim milk left on their hands, and to make the business pay as well as possible, they naturally look for a means of disposing of this skim milk. Usually there is quite a demand for the sour-milk curd, known as Dutch cheese, cottage cheese, or SchmierJcdse. 359« Method of Manufacture. As this has been made probably for centuries, it would seem an easy task, and so it is, if conditions are just right, but as large dairies sometimes have difiiculty in obtaining uniform results, a short chapter treating about the manufacture of this cheese from a scientific standpoint may be helpful. 360. Curdling Power of Acid. As has been explained the casein of milk is precipitated by rennet and dilute acids. Sweet milk can be heated to the boil- ing point without curdling, but as acid develops, the milk will first be coagulated at the higher temperatui es, and then as the acidity increases, the temperature at which it will curdle is gradually lowered until skim milk containing .6 to .7 per cent of acid will curdle spontaneously. At about 70° F. skim milk will not increase in acidity above nine-tenths of a per cent, as the growth of the. lactic acid germ is checked. Van Slyke and Hart found approximately 5 per cent of sugar in milk used by them. When the milk contained .9 per cent acid (the maximum amount), 1.5 per cent milk sugar, or 28 per cent of that orig- inally present, has disappeared ; 62 per cent of the milk sugar that disappeared was left in the form of lactic acid. The re- 185 186 Cheese Making. mainder probably disappeared in the form of carbonic acid and other volatile substances. 361. Effect of Fat on Per Cent of Acid in Milk. Fat in milk or cream takes the place of some of the milk serum. Cream containing 35 per cent fat will curdle with about five-tenths of a per cent of lactic acid, and milk containing 5 per cent fat will develop hardly more than seven-tenths per cent of acid. This is because the fat displaces a portion of the serum. 362. Abnormal Fermentations, When other fermentations than pure lactic acid occur, trouble may ensue, for gas may make the curd froth so that it may be impossible to use it, or the curd may be slimy or the flavor may be impaired. The way out of such a difficulty is to use a lactic ferment starter in the milk (112). 363. Measuring the Acidity. As acidity plays such an important part, it may be desirable to measure the acid. For this a Farring-ton alkaline tablet test outfit is to be recommended. In addition to the apparatus pre- viously described for testing milk for an acidity of two-tenths per cent (106), a graduated glass cylinder of 100 c. c. capacity is required for measuring the water carefully. One tablet is used for each 19.5 c. c. of water, or five tablets for 97 c. c. of water. The titration is then made with 17.5 c. c. of milk meas- ured into the teacup with a Babcock pipette. Each cubic centi- meter of the alkali solution required is equal to one-hundredth of one per cent of lactic acid. 364. Moisture, How Regulated. A very important factor in the manufacture of cottage cheese is the control of the moisture content. Seventy-five per cent of moisture makes a smooth cheese of good texture. More water makes it soft and sticky and less makes it harsh like saw- dust. The time and temperature used in firming is the impor- tant thing here as in the manufacture of Cheddar cheese. The following rule will usually apply: Set the milk at 70° F. until it coagulates. Cut it fine with a curd knife. Then heat to 90° F. in thirty minutes. In ten or fifteen minutes draw the whey and dip as described in paragraph 365. Cottage, Neufchatel and Soft Cream Cheese. 187 Van Slyke and Hart made careful investigations with re- gard to the influence of the temperature of souring and of sub- sequent heating upon the moisture content and the texture of the cheese, some results of which are given in the following table :* INFLUENCE OF TEMPERATURE OF SOURING AND HEATING UPON MOISTURE IN CHEESE. , M >> Pi ID a o Mo gas, =29 £5 03 a X H o 6 tit g S M I- 73 O 03 0+J ex3o3 a^l go as Water In Oheese. Texture of Cheese. ^ t^^o H^oDc: &Ht^W HO Deg. F. Deg. F. Minutes Minutes Minutes Per cent. I 60 80 60 15 135 77.6 good 2 60 90 20 5 145 78.8 soft B 70 80 30 30 150 81.5 mushy 4 70 90 40 15 10 73.5 good 5 80 90 20 10 60 74.9 good 6 80 100 35 5 50 71.8 slightly dry 7 90 100 20 5 71.5 slightly dry 8 90 110 30 5 68.1 tough, hard 365. Dipping the Cheese. As soon as the curd has settled so that it will not interfere with the whey strainer, the whey is drawn off and the curd is dipped with a curd pail into a cloth strainer. This strainer is made of linen strainer cloth, and is in the form of a tube so that it can be slipped over a wooden frame. The ends of the frame are supported by wooden horses, which are set over a drain to catch the whey. The curd is stirred in this strainer to free it from the excess of whey. Perhaps a little cream or but- ter may be added to the curd at this time to make it softer and more palatable. Cottage cheese, like other kinds, is more de- sirable if it contains a good quantity of butter fat. A little dry sage or caraway seed may also be worked into it to give it flavor. Salt to suit the taste, about two pounds to the thousand pounds of milk, is also worked in. *Geneva (N. Y.) Exp Sta., Bull. 245. 188 Cheese jMaking. 366. Hydrochloric Acid Cheese. Milk may be coagulated at once by the use of ten ounces of chemically pure hydrocliloric acid, sp. gr. 1.20, diluted to ten times its volume, per 100 pounds of milk. The milk to be used should be at a temperature of 70° to 80° F. The acid is added slowly and stirred in carefully to evenly distribute it. Stir un- til the whey appears clear. The whey is then drawn otf and the curd dipped and salted as described in paragraph 365. The yield of cheese by either method will depend upon the composi- tion of the skim milk and the water retained, but it will be from sixteen to twenty pounds per 100 pounds of skim milk. The cost of acid is four or five cents per 100 pounds of milk, or one- fourth cent per pound of cheese. The disadvantage of the hydrochloric acid method is the lack of sour milk flavor to the cheese. This can be produced in a measure by adding some sour cream or sour milk to the curd. 367. Marketing the Cheese. Local conditions may atfect the form in which the cheese is put up for sale. It can be put into balls or loaves, which are cut later, or in paper packages, such as are used for oysters and ice cream. It always pays to put up any article in as clean and attractive a form as possible. 368. Neufchatel and Soft Cream Cheese. Imitation Neufchatel and soft cream cheese are similar to cottage cheese, but made in a slightly different manner. The Imitation Neufchatel is made from milk containing three or four per cent fat while the milk for the cream cheese should contain five to ten per cent fat, the higher per cents making the finer quality of cheese. The milk is first mixed with a good starter from two to five per cent of its bulk, and then set with rennet at 80° F. "When coagulated it is set into a refrigerator or cold water is run around it without breaking the coagulum. It is cooled to 60° F. if possible and left for twenty-four hours. The acid will probably develop to .6 per cent, giving a rich ripened cream flavor. It is then carefully turned into a cheese cloth bag and hung up for twenty-four hours to drain. If too moist, a twisting of the neck of the bag will assist in the expulsion of moisture. After the twenty- four hours' draining in the bag it is COTCQ^GE, NeUFCHATEL AND SOFT CrEAM ChEESE. 189 salted. It can be worked into rolls by filling a tube and pushing it out with a plunger. The rolls are wrapped first in parchment paper and then in tinfoil. The cream cheese can be printed with a butter printer. This kind of cheese is perishable as it contains a great deal . of moisture and must be consumed within a week. It should be kept in the refrigerator. QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XX. 1. Give two kinds of substances that curdle the casein ? 2. What per cent of lactic acid must be present in skim milk to curdle it? 3. What per cent of lactic acid will curdle cream containing 35 per cent fat? 4. Why does it take a higher per cent of lactic acid to curdle skim milk than cream? 5. What effect has temperature on the curdling power of lactic acid? 6. What will be the effect of abnormal fermentations on the quality of cottage cheese? 7. How may the per cent of lactic acid in the milk be measured ? 8. What is the effect of too much acid on the curd ? 9. At what temperature should the milk be set ? 10. How high is it necessary to heat the curd to get it firm ? 11. How is the curd separated from the whey ? 12. De- scribe the strainer into which the curd is dipped. 13. What is the object of adding cream or butter to the curd? 14. How much salt is required for cottage cheese? 15. What substances may be mixed with the cheese for flavor? 16. How should cot- tage cheese be marketed? 17. How is hydrochloric-acid cheese made? 18. What proportion and what kind of acid should be used? 19. What is the disadvantage of making hydrochloric acid cheese ? 20. Describe the method of manufacture of Imita- tion Neufchatel and soft cream cheese. CHAPTER XXI. FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC CHEESE OF MINOR IMPORTANCE. In this chapter brief information will be given as to the manufacture of a number of foreign and domestic cheeses that are now made to a limited extent in this country. Investiga- tions with regard to the possibility of manufacturing other kinds of foreign cheeses than those given below are being conducted at the present time, and it is likely that the manufacture of other styles than those here considered will soon be found prac- ticable and prove a commercial success under our American conditions, if rightly managed. 369. Camembert Cheese. Camembert cheese is a soft French cheese which is manu- factured on an extensive scale in Northwestern France, and im- ported to this country in large quantities every year. The sub- ject of the manufacture of this cheese in the United States has been studied by Storrs (Conn.) Experiment Station, in coopera- tion with the U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, and very promising results have been obtained. The method of manufacture is de- scribed as follows by the Station mentioned :* The fresh whole milk is warmed to 85° F., and a starter, preferably a pure culture of lactic-acid bacteria, is added. A rather high degree of acidity (0.30 to 0.35 per cent) is allowed to develop, and sufficient rennet (about 8 to 10 cc. per 100 pounds of milk having an acidity of 0.3 per cent) is then added to the milk at the temperature mentioned to secure the desired texture of the curd in one and one-half to two hours. The curd is cut, stirred gently, and allowed to stand for about fifteen minutes, when the bulk of the whey is removed. After being ♦Bull. 35, 46; Bur. An. Industry Bull. 71, 98; Farmers' Bull. 296. 100 Foreign and Domestic Cheese of Minor Importance. 191 stirred thoroughly the curd is dipped into galvanized-iron forms or hoops, 4 inches in diameter and 5 inches in height and open at both ends. They rest upon a mat made of fine bamboo strips. The cheeses are allowed to drain naturally for four to five hours, when they are inoculated with cultures of camembert molds and turned. The next morning they are removed from the forms and salted by rubbing salt on the surface. When the curd is not cut, as is the custom in France, a higher acidity of the milk is necessary (0.40 to 0.45 per cent), and a longer period is allowed for draining. The next day after salting the cheeses are transferred to the first ripening room, which must be nearly saturated with moisture and kept at a temperature of 60 to 62° F. When placed on boards the cheeses are turned daily. Dur- ing the second week they are wrapped in tin foil or parchment paper and usually put into small round wooden boxes, after which they are transferred to the second curing room, which is kept atl a temperature of 56 to 60° and may have a lower per- centage of moisture than the first room. Here the cheeses re- main for one to two weeks longer when they are ready for the market. Twelve to fifteen lbs. of Camembert cheese (or 20 to 30 cheeses) will be obtained from 100 lbs. of whole milk.* 370. Canned Cheese. This cheese is sold under various names, Pot or Canned Cheese, Club House, Canadian Club, etc. It is easily prepared on a small scale from good well-cured Cheddar cheese. The rind is pared off, and the cheese cut into small pieces and run through a meat-grinding machine. One ounce of good melted butter per pound of cheese is then added and worked into the cheese till it is perfectly homogenous. It is filled into small jars or jelly glasses, the inside of which is coated with a layer of melted butter, filling the jars nearly level and covering the cheese with a thin layer of melted butter. The jars are covered with parchment paper or tin foil and are kept in a cool place until sold or wanted for use. Any housekeeper can easily put up cheese in this way, and small dairy farms can supply the local market with such cheese to advantage. Cheese thus canned does *Circ. Ill, 111. Experiment Station. 192 Cheese Making. not become dry before being used up ; it is very palatable and in a convenient form to go directly on the table, and is soft enough to be spread on bread or crackers, if desired.* 371. Farm Cheddar Cheese. For a farm dairy it will be much easier to make up sweet- curd cheese than sour-curd cheese, described in chapters VI to X. For this purpose it is necessary to have a curd-knife, a eheese-vat, and a cheese-press ; the method of procedure is as follows : The milk, which must be clean and sweet, is. heated to 90° F., and if any artificial color is required it is added at this time. Set the milk with enough rennet extract to coagulate in 20 to 30 minutes. About four ounces of Hansen's rennet extract per 1000 lbs. of milk will prove a sufficient amount. As soon as the curd will break over the finger cut it fairly fine; then raise the temperature one degree in 3 minutes until 108° F. is reached, at the same time stirring carefully to keep the curd particles apart. Hold at 108° F. till the curd is firm, that is, till the pieces do not feel mushy. Then draw the whey and stir till the whey is well drained out. Salt at the rate of 214 lbs. of salt to 100 lbs of curd, and when the salt is well worked in, it may be put to press. It will, however, improve the quality if kept warm, and allowed to stand a number of hours before salting and pressing. The cheese should be cured in a room (preferably a cellar) where the temperature can be kept at 60° F. Higher temperatures may spoil it. The cheese should be cured for two or three months before it is sold.f 372. Gouda or Pantegras Cheese. Gouda or Pantegras cheese originated in South Hol- land, and takes its name from the city of Gouda. It is made to some extent in America, for shipment to the "West In- dies, where\ it is known as Pantegras cheese. It is larger than Edam, and pressed as flattened spheres. It is a sweet-curd cheese, which is salted in brine and cured in the same manner as Edam. It must be made from good milk, as gassy fermen- *Modem Dairy Science and Practice, Van Slyke, p. 118; see also Utah Exp. Sta., bull. 96; Ore. Exp. Sta. bull. 78, and Farmers' Bull. 210. tWoll, Handbook for Farmers and Dairymen, 5th ed., pp. 321-22, Monrad, ABC in Cheese Making, p. 18, Dean, Canadian Dairying-, p. 97, and Far- mers' Bull. 160. Foreign and Domestic Cheese op IMinor Importance. 193 tations will spoil it. In the hot summer months its manufacture is dispensed with for this reason. It is packed four in a case, the case having little holes covered with wire screen for venti- lation.* Fig-. 93. — Form used foi' Gouda cheese. 373. Italian Cheeses. Cococavallo, Scamorze or Buttiro. For this Italian cheese, the milk is skimmed and then coagulated with rennet, and the curd is firm'ed and allowed to settle to the bottom of the vat. The whey is then drawn off. The curd is cut into pieces and piled on a draining table. After a number of hours of drain- ing, it is cut into small strips and thro^^oi into a vat of hot wa- ter. The small strips of curd melt together into a mass resem- bling taffy. The cheese-maker then draws it out in a string and molds it by hand. The usual shape is that of "Indian clubs," but it may be in the form of animals. Each form, as fast as made, is thrown into a vat of cold water, to set it in the shape into which it has been drawn. After a number of hours in this cold water, it goes into a brine bath for salting. After salting, it is hung up by a string to cure. It may be marketed green, or may be cured several months. A small cheese may weigh only a pound, a large one five or six pounds. A small ball of butter is sometimies worked into the curd, when it is termed Buttiro cheese. The cheese is shipped in barrels. ♦The description of this and the Italian cheeses is taken from the author's article in Bailev. Cyclopedia of American Agriculture, Vol. III. See also Dean, Canadian Dairving-, p. 182; Minn. Exp. Station, bull. 35, Geneva (N. T.) Sta. Bull. 56, and Penna. Station Report 1896, p. 79. 194 Cheese Making. Bicotte. This is an albumen cheese made by heating the whey drawn from the former cheese, to about 200° Fahr. The addition of sour whey helps to coagulate the albumen, which is skimmed out and put into perforated tin cylinders about six inches in diameter. These tin molds are slightly tapering, and are set one into another for pressure. The albumen block is then rubbed with salt and set on a shelf to dry for weeks. A steam-heated kiln may be used to facilitate the drying. The cheese is wrapped in parchment paper, and packed in barrels for shipment. Italians coming to America have brought with them their methods of cheese-making. In Sullivan and Orange counties, New York, and in Geuga count}'', Ohio, there are factories mak- ing such cheese. 374. Danish Pasteurized Skim-Milk Cheese. The value of skim milk as a human food article is better appreciated in European countries than with us, where Boards of Health in some cities even prohibit its sale for this purpose, on account of the danger of its being sold fraudulently as whole milk. This applies also to food products made from skim milk, especially skim-milk cheese. During late years an important industry has developed in Denmark in making cheese from pasteurized skim milk or from pasteurized skim milk to which 10, 25 or 50 per cent of whole milk has been added. A very palatable and nutritious cheese is made by the method worked out by the Danes, and as the subject is of interest to our makers as a possible means of utilizing large quantities of skim milk for the manufacture of a valuable human food, the method of making Danish skim cheese or part skim cheese will be given here. The best results have been obtained with 75 per cent centri- fugal skim milk and 25 per cent whole milk (or a corresponding quantity of cream) .* The skim milk is heated to 180° F. in a continuous pasteurizer; 6 to 8 per cent of good butter milk is added as a starter, the amount used for pure skim milk being ten per cent. The mixture of milk and butter milk will contain about .21 per cent acid and is set without further ripening. The *Private communication from Dr. Orla Jensen, Copenhagen, Denmark. Foreign and Domestic Cheese op Minor Importance. 195 usual amount of rennet extract is added to the milk, and this is set at a temperature of 95° F. The milk is left for half an hour before the curd is cut, and the temperature then raised with two or three intervals to 100° to 102° F. The cheese is made by the granular process, no curd mill being used. The curd is salted at the rate of two or three pounds per 1000 pounds milk. A 30-pound round cheese and 16-pound square cheese are the common sizes made. The cheese is pressed in an upright press for 24 hours, and is then placed in the curing room. There are two different curing rooms, the first one is kept at a tempera- ture of 54°, with a relative humidity of 90°. The temperature of the second curing room is kept at 59°, with a humidity of 92°. The cheese is kept in the first room for three weeks and is then transferred to the second curing room where it remains until sold, at two^ to five months old. When ripe the cheese is well broken down, and has a uniformly clean flavor and a good texture. It sells for about ten cents a pound wholesale (75 per cent skim) and five cents a pound for full-skim cheese. 375. Sage Cheese. Sage cheese is a favorite cheese with some people and is manufactured to a limited extent -in certain localities in this country. It is made in exactly the same way as common Ameri- can Cheddar cheese, with the exception that a sage flavor is im- parted to it, preferably by adding sage leaves to the curd, three ounces being sufficient for the curd from 1000 lbs. of milk. The sage should be weighed, all stems picked out, and the leaves finely powdered and added to the curd just before salting.* The Swiss ' ' Schabziger, " green, or ''Krauter" cheese re- sembles sage cheese in so far as powdered leaves of a plant are added in its manufacture. This cheese, which is found on our markets as small grayish green cones, is made from sour skim milk and butter milk, the dried and powdered leaves of rock clover (of the sweet-clover family) being thoroughly mixed with the ground curd. *Michigan Spec. h. 21; Farmers' Bull. No. 202. APPENDIX. Table I. Composition of Milk and Its Products. Cow's milk. Colostrum milk Cream Cream, Cooley Skim milk (gravity) . Skim milk (centrifugal) Butter milk Whey Condensed milk, (no sugar added) . . . Condensed milk, (sugar added) Butter, salted " sweet cream. . '* sour cream. . . " unsalted " World's Fair, 1893 Cheese, cream " full cream. . * ' Cheddar, green " Cheddar, cured " World's Fair Mam'th, 1893 " half- skim . . . ' * skim ' ' centrifugal skim No. of analyses 793 5,552 2,173 200,000 42 43 203 56 354 36 64 1,676 10 11 242 350 127 143 pr. ct. 87.17 87.75 87.10 86.48 87.10 74.57 68.82 73.90 90.43 90.52 90.30 90.12 91.67 93.38 93.12 58.99 25.61 11.95 12.93 13.08 13.07 11.57 36.33 38.00 36.84 34.38 32.06 39.79 46.00 50.5 Casein and albumen 22.66 17.60 .87 .32 .10 1.09 .27 .32 .27 12.42 10.35 84.27 84.53 84.26 85.24 84.70 40.71 30.25 33.83 32.71 34.43 23.92 11.65 1.2 pr. ct. 3.55 3.50 3.201 3.51^ 3.40 17.64* 3.76 "3!26' Milk sugar 3.55 4.03 .86 .81 11.92 pr. ct. 4.8f 4.60 5.10 4.85 2.67 4.23 '4! 74 5.25 4.04 4.79 5.80 Ash pr. ct. .71 .75 .70 8.71 .75 1.56 .53 .62 .70 .80 .72 65 14.49 11.79 50.06 1.26 .61 I .81 I 1.57 .95 18.84 25.35 23.72 26.38 28.00 29.67 34.06 43.1 02 43 5.61 951 3 2.18 2.19 2.58 1.25 1.19 .12 2.78 3.10 4.97 58 5.51 Authority K6nig= Fleischmann Van Slyke Holland* Eichmond Konig* Holland® Konig^ Holland^ Van Slyke Konig^ Holland® Konig'' Van Slyke 4.73 4.87 5.2 Konig^ Woll Konig'* Woll FarringtoB Konig'^ (( Van Slyke Drew Shutt Konig^ Storeh 1 .70 per cent, albumen. 2 Forty- two analyses. 8 Eight analyses. 4 13.60 per cent, albumen. s Mostly European samples. 6 Massachusetts' samples. 196 Appendix. 197 Table II. Analyses of Different Kinds of Cheese, in Per Cent. ^^ Water Fat Proteins Sugar or Lactic Acid, etc. Ash Authority Oamembert 45.2 3t).7 81.7 34.0 46.7 52.9 36.6 36.8 35.7 34.5 31.8 36.9 36.1 30.3 63.0 36.8 31.0 15.0 4.8 29.0 26.5 34.2 41.9 19.5 30.6 29.5 19.8 4.9 25.5 26.0 33.2 35.9 25.7 28.3 24.2 13.0 41.2 25.3 28.0 4.7 1.2 Duclaux Oream Cheese .2 Vieth Cheddar, ripened... Cheddar, Canadian. Danish, half skim. . . Danish, full skim.... Edam. 6 9 5 6 3.6 3.2 3.0 7.0 1.2 1.8 3.2 1 4 5.1 5.2 2.9 3.6 6.3 5.4 3.1 Van Slyke Dean Storch Storch Konlg Gouda Limburger Konig Fleischmann Neuf chatel Parmesan K6nig Roquefort Konig Swiss Fleischmann Table III. The Cheese Market of the United States. (Thom.) Milk. Yield of Cheese per 100 lbs. Milk Ripening. Marketable Period. Retail Price per Lb Hard Cheeses. Europe. U. S. English Cheddar (best) Whole milk Whole milk Low fat Low fat Low fat 3.5-4% fat Whole milk Whole milk Mostly poor in fat. 9-11 9-11 8-11 8-11 8-11 12-15 9-11 8-10 12-14 (?) 6-12 mo. 3-12 mo. Long period Long period 2-3 years 4 weeks 4 months 3-6 months Eaten fresh 6 mo. or more Months Very long Very long Very long 10 days 1-2 mo. 2 mo. (?) Few days $0.22-26 0.15* 0.15-24 0.24-28 0.32 0.26-36 0.23-24 0.25-35 Can. or Ameri- can Cheddar Edam. 0.14-18 0.33 Swiss 26-35 " Parmesan Soft or Fanct ■-_ Cheeses. Oamembert Gorgonzola Stilton (best) .... Amer. "Neuf- chateP'&Cream 0.50-70 0.45 0.45-60 0.20-60 * London, October, 1905. 198 Cheese Making. Table IV. Yield of Cheese from 100 lbs. of Milk. Lactometer degrees. i^ 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 't^ 2.5 2.6 2.7 2.8 2.9 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.7 3.!- 3.9 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7 4.8 4.9 5.0 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.6 0.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 6.0 7.28 7.44 7.59 7.74 7.90 8.05 8.21 8.36 8.52 8.67 8.82 8.98 9.13 9.29 9.44 9.60 9.75 9.90 10.06 10.21 10.36 10.52 10.67 10.83 10.98 11.14 11.29 11.45 11.60 11.76 11.91 12.07 12.22 12.38 12.63 12.69 7.41 7.57 7.72 7.87 8.03 8.18 8.34 8.4« 8.65 8.80 8.96 9.11 9.26 9.42 9.57 9.73 9.88 10.03 10.19 10.34 10.49 10.65 10.81 10.96 11.11 11.27 11.42 11.58 11.73 11.89 12.04 12.20 12.35 12.51 12.66 12.82 7.54 7.70 7.85 8.00 8.16 8.31 8.47 8.62 8.78 8.93 9.09 9.24 9.39 9.55 9.70 9.86 10.02 10.17 10.32 10.48 10.63 10.78 10.94 11.09 11.25 11.40 11.55 11.71 11.86 12.02 12.17 12.33 12.48 12.64 12.79 12.95 7.67 7.83 7.99 8.14 8.30 8.45 8.60 8.75 8.91 9.06 9.22 9.37 9.52 9.68 9.84 10.00 10.15 10.30 10.45 10.61 10.76 10.92 11.07 11.22 11.38 11.54 11.69 11.85 11.99 12.16 12.31 12.47 12.62 12.77 12.93 13.09 7.81 7.96 8.12 8.27 8.44 8.68 8.74 8.89 9.05 9.20 9.35 9.50 9.65 9.81 9.97 10.13 10.28 10.43 10.68 10.74 10.89 11.05 11.20 11.36 11.51 11.67 11.82 11.98 12.13 12.29 12.44 12.60 12.75 12.91 13.06 13.22 7.94 8.09 8.25 8.40 8.56 8.71 8.87 9.02 9.18 9.33 9.48 9.63 9.78 9.94 10.10 10.26 10.39 10.67 10.72 10.87 11.03 11.18 11.34 11.49 11.65 11.80 11.96 12.11 12.27 12.42 12.58 12.73 12.89 13.06 13.19 13.35 8.07 8.22 8.38 8.63 8.69 8.84 9.00 9.15 9.31 9.46 9.62 9.77 9.92 hi.Os 10.23 10.39 10.64 10.70 10.85 11.00 11.16 11.31 11.47 11.62 11.78 11.93 12.09 12.24 12.40 12.65 12.71 12.87 13.02 13.18 13.33 13.49 8.20 8.35 8.51 8.67 8.82 8.97 9.13 9.28 9.44 9.59 9.75 9.90 10.06 10.21 10.36 10.53 10.68 10.84 10.99 11.14 11.29 11.45 11.60 11.76 11.91 12.07 12.23 12.38 12.53 12.69 12.85 13.00 13.16 13.31 13.47 13.62 8.33 8.49 8.64 8.80 8.95 9.11 9.26 9.42 9.67 9.73 9.88 10.03 10.19 10.34 10.50 10.66 10.81 10.97 11.12 11.27 11.42 11.58 11.73 11.89 12.04 12.20 12.36 12.52 12.67 12.83 12.99 13.14 13.30 13.45 13.60 13.76 8.47 8.62 8.77 8.91 9.09 9.24 9.39 9.56 9.70 9.86 10.01 10.17 10.32 10.48 10,64 10.79 10.94 11.10 11.25 11.41 11.56 11.71 11.87 12.02 12.18 12.34 12.49 12.66 12.71 12.97 13.12 13.28 13.44 13.59 13.74 13.89 8.6(1 8.76 8.91 9.07 9.22 9.37 9.53 9.68 9.84 9.99 10.16 10.30 10.46 10.61 10.77 10.93 11.08 11.24 11.39 11.55 11.70 11.86 12.01 12.16 12.32 12.48 12.63 12.80 12. 8o 13.01 13.26 13.41 13.57 13.72 13.87 14.02 2.5 2.6 •2.7 2.8 2.9 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 1.7 4.H 4.9 i.O 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.6 "i.7 0.8 5.9 6.0 V. GOVERNMENT STANDARDS OF PURITY FOR CHEESE.* 1. Cheese is the sound, solid, and ripened product made from milk or cream by coagulating the casein thereof with ren- net or lactic acid, with or without the addition of ripening fer- ments and seasoning, and contains, in the water-free substance, *Circ. No. 19, Office of the Secretary, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture. Appendix. 199 not less than fifty (50) per cent of milk fat. By act of Con- gress, approved June 6, 1896, cheese may also contain added coloring matter. 2. Skim-milk cheese is the sounds solid, and ripened product made from skim milk by coagulating the casein thereof with rennet or lactic acid, with or without the addition of ripening ferments and seasoning. 3. Goat's milk cheese, ewe's milk cheese, etc., are the sound, ripened products made from the milks of the animals specified by coagulating the casein thereof with rennet or lactic acid, with or without the addition of ripening ferments or seasoning. VI. DEFINITION OF A GOOD AMERICAN CHEDDAR CHEESE* Flavor. Should have a fine, nutty, pleasing acid flavor. Texture. Smooth, silky and close boring. Color. Even and slightly translucent. Finish. Should have a smooth rind covered with close- fitting bandage and have a square edge. VII. DEFECTS IN AMERICAN CHEDDAR CHEESE.* I. Defects in Flavor. A. Acid Flavors. Indicated by a sour smell and taste. Cause. (1) Eipening the milk too much before setting. (2) Use of too much starter. (3) Use of sharp and over-ripe starter. (4) Insufficient cook at the time of drawing the whey. Remedy. (1) Ripen milk less before setting. (2) Use less starter; from one-half to one per cent is usually sufficient. (3) Never use a starter which is sharp in taste or in which whey appears. (4) Get the curd heated to 98 or 100° F. at least li/o hour before drawing the whey and develop one- eighth of an inch string on the hot iron. *By M. Michels, in charge of Butter and Cheese Scoring Exhibitions, Wisconsin Dairy School. See also Publow, Defects in American Cheddar Cheese, Bull. 257, Cornell Exp. Station. 200 Cheese Making. B. Lacking Flavor. Lacking in taste and smell. Catise. (1) Setting the milk underripe. (2) Cooking a slow- working curd up too rapidly. (3) Too much washing of the curd when placed on the racks or after milling. Remedfj. (1) Set the milk at .18 to .19 per cent of acid. (2) The curd should be firm and develop one-eighth inch string on the hot iron in about li/o hour after heating to 100° and the drawing of the whey. (3) "When necessary to use water, do not wash, but simply rinse the curd. C. Fermented Fruit Flavors. Indicated by a fermented whey or fermented fruit smell and somewhat sickening to the taste. Cause. (1) Unclean cans in which milk is delivered. (2) Unclean factory conditions. (3) Added with the starter. Remedy. (1) Cans in which whey is returned should be emptied in the forenoon and properly washed and cared for before the milk is put in. (2) Keep everything about the factory sweet and clean. Watch out for leaky vats and leaky dipper han- dles. (3) This flavor usually gets into the starter can by leaving it uncovered in unclean surroundings. "Wlien troubled with flavors of this kind it is usually hard to develop sufficient acid on the curd. D. Bitter Flavors. Indicated by a bitter taste. Cause. (1) Aged milk. (2) May develop in the starter. (3) By bacteria brushed from the cows udder while milking. Remedy. (1) Milk should iot be more than two days old. (2) Set the starter with a small amount of mother starter, at 70°, rather than use a large amount Appendix. 201 of mother starter and set at 55 or 60° (one quart of mother starter to 100 Ihs. of pasteurized skim milk is sufficient). (3) Milk in clean stables with clean hands. E. Weedy or Food Flavors. Indicated by a weedy and food smell. CoMse. (1) Cows feeding on weeds. (2) Feeding strong-scented feed just before or while milking. (3) Exposing milk in an atmosphere laden with food flavors. Remedy. (1) Give the cows plenty of good pasture so that they will not feed on weeds to the extent that this flavor will be noticed in the milk. (2) Never feed silage, brewers' grains, or slightly de- cayed feed shortly before or during milking. (3) Never keep the milk in a warm room with feed of any kind. P. Stable Flavors. Bad taste and cow-stable smell. Cause. (1) Uncleanliness in milking. (2) Keeping the milk or cream in or near a dirty cow- stable. Remedy. (1) See that the stable and the cows are clean at milking, and always milk with clean, dry hands. (2) All milk should be removed from the stable as soon as the milking is finished. Never keep the milk or cream near the stable or manure piles. G. Unclean or Off Flavors. Indicated by an unclean smell or taste. Cause. (1) Often a combination of defects. (2) Unclean cans and other utensils coming in contact with the milk. (3) Unclean milking. (4) Exposing the milk to impure air. (5) Using impure water in setting the milk or in rins- ing the curd. 202 Cheese' Making. (6) Using a starter of unclean flavor, (7) These terms are often used when the judges fail to find a suitable description. II. Defects in Texture. A. Dry Textures. Appear dry and hard and do not mold between the fingers. CoMse. (1) Lack of butter fat in milk. (2) Heating the curd too high in the whey. (3) Stirring too dry on the racks. (4) Using too much salt. (5) Insufficient curing before milling and salting. Remedy. (1) No butter fat should ever be removed from the milk. (2) Set at such ripeness that 100° will give the curd a sufficient cook. (3) Leave enough moisture so that curd will mat in about 15 minutes after stirring. (4) Use 1/4 lb- of salt to every 10 lbs. of cheese made. (5) Keep the curd warm so that the curing will not be checked. B. Corky Textures. Appear corky or rubber-like. Cause. (1) Cutting the curd too fine. (2) Too much cook. (3) Handling curds roughly, thereby losing part of the fat. Remedy. (1) Cut no finer than is necessary to insure a thorough cook. (2) Study the firmness and cook no higher than neces- sary. 100° F. is usually sufficient. (3) Stir the curd constantly, but gently. The whey should never appear milky. C. Acid Textures. Appear short and mealy. Look faded in color and sour to the taste. Cause. (1) Eipening the milk too much before setting. (2) The use of too much starter. (3) The development of too much acid before the curd is properly firmed. Appendix. 203 (4) Developing too much acid in the whey. (5) Insufacient stirring when out of the whey. Remedy. (1) Study the ripeness of the milk daily and you will always know the proper point at which to set the milk. (2) It is seldom necessary to use more than one per cent of starter. (3) Allow an hour and a half between the time of heating to 98 or 100° and the development of one-eighth inch string on the hot iron. (4) Never develop more than one-eighth inch string in the whey unless the curd had an over-cook. (5) Never allow pools of whey to collect on the curd after matting. When necessary to make over-ripened milk into cheese— First, use an extra amount of ren- net so as to coagulate the milk quickly. Second, cut the coagulated milk into finer pieces than ordinary. Third, heat the curd more rapidly and to a higher temperature. D. Weak Textures. May be close boring, yet soggy. This fault usually appears with cold weather and with in- creased richness of milk. Cause. (1) Insufficient cook. (2) Heating curd too rapidly. (3) Insufficient drainage. (4) Cutting the curd too coarse. (5) Not using enough salt. (6) Matting the curd down too thin before milling. Remedy. (1) As the milk grows richer and the weather colder it takes a trifle more heat and time to properly firm the curd. (2) The lower the acidity of the milk when set, the slower should be the cooking process. (3) The curd must be stirred sufficiently dry when out of the whey. (4) Cut to about the size of corn kernels. (5) As the yield increases use more salt, one-quarter of a pound to every 10 pounds of cheese made. 204 Cheese Making. (6) Do not pile the curd more than three or four lay- ers deep and re-pile often. E. Open Textures. Cheese very soft and full of holes. Cause. (1) Insufficient development of acid. (2) Insufficient pressure while in press. (3) Too high a temperature of curing room. Remedy. (1) The curd should never show less than 1% inch string on the hot iron when salted. (2) Tighten the press often, or still better, have a con- tinuous-pressure press. (3) If possible keep the temperature of the curing room down to 65°. F. Gassy Textures. Indicated by spongy texture and full of small openings throughout the cheese. Cause. (1) Produced by bacteria brushed into the milk with dirt from cow's udder while milking. (2) Use of unclean cans. (3) Gassy starters. Remedy. (1) Cows should not be allowed to wade in stagnant pools of water ; and the udder should be brushed free of loose dirt be- fore milking. (2) Cans in which the milk is carried must be kept clean ; also the whey tank at the factory. (3) A gassy starter should never be used, but should be thrown away and a new one prepared. Heat the curd more slowly while cooking. A gassy curd is always slow in developing acid and for this reason a little more acid may be developed in the whey. Pile the curd quite deep before milling. After milling the curd should be well stirred and aired. Use a trifle more salt. G. Greasy Textures. Indicated by free butter fat between particles of curd which are not cemented together. Cause. (1) Very rich milk, two days old. (2) Setting the milk at too high a temperature. (3) Piling and maturing the curd too much at high temperatures. Appendix. 205 Bemedy. (1) Wlien necessary to make up old milk han- dle very gently and carefully from start to finisli. (2) Do not set the milk at too high a temperature. (3) Pile the curd less and mill earlier. Rinse with water at 90° 15 minutes before salting and use a trifle more salt. III. Defects in Color. A. Dead or Faded in Color. The cause and remedy the same as in acid texture. B. Mottled in Color. Uneven color in the cheese, most no- ticeable in the case of colored cheese. Cause. (1) Mixing curds of different colors. (2) Uneven development of acid on curd. (3) Allowing the curd to mat into large lumps while heating. (4) Adding a curdy starter without draining. (5) Adding starter after the milk has been colored. Remedy. (1) Curds from different vats or days should never be mixed. (2) Do not allow portions of curd to remain in the whey until the rest has been stirred dry, and do not let the whey collect in pools on the curd while matting. (8) Keep the particles of curd separate and stirred while heating. (4) Strain all starters. (5) Always add starter before you do the color. IV. Defects in Finish. A. Make-up or Finish. High edge. Cause. (1) Improperly fitting followers. (2) Applying pressure too quickly. (3) Dressing cheese before sufficient pressure has been applied. Remedy. (1) Fit followers closely by loosening fibre ring and tack further out; if then too short tack extra small piece between the two ends. 206 Cheese Maxtng. (2) Apply pressure steadily but gently. (3) Make certain the cheese has been pressed suffi- ciently so as to keep its shape when press is opened. Take all wrinkles out of the bandage by pulling up tight and lap over one inch ; if too long same should be cut off. (4) Apply pressure gradually after dressing. B. Checked Rinds. Cause. (1) Creamery curds. (2) Pressing when too cold. (3) The use of hard and impervious press cloths. (4) Lack of pressure while in the press. (5) Too rapid drying when first taken from the press. Remedy. (1) Rinse curd before salting and if neces- sary wash with warm water when dress- ing, or the following morning. (2) Keep hoops and press at ordinary room tempera- ture. (3) Keep press cloths soft by washing daily in water and washing powder, or in a pail of whey. (4) The pressure must be kept up for several hours after dressing. The use of a continuous-pres- sure press is recommended. (5) Do not place new cheese in a current of air or near an open window. VIII. STANDARDS FOR GRADING CANADIAN CHED- DAR CHEESE.* First Grade. Flavor: Clean, sound and pure. Body and Texture : Close, firm and silky. Color: Good and uniform. Finish: Fairly even in size, smoothly finished, sound and clean surfaces, straight and square. Boxes: Strong, clean, well made and nailed. Ends to be of seasoned timber. Close fitting. "Weights stenciled or marked with rubber stamp. Second Grade. Flavor: "Fruity," not clean, "tumipy," or other objectionable flavor. ♦Report Dairy Oom'r of Canada, 1906, pp. 17-18. Appendix. 207 Body and Texture: Weak, open, loose, "acidy," too soft, too dry. Color: Uneven, mottled, or objectionable shade. Finish: Very uneven in size, showing rough, comers, black mold, dirty or cracked surfaces, soft rinds. Boxes: Too large in diameter; top edge of box more than one-half inch below the top of the cheese. Made of light material. Ends made of improperly seasoned material. Third Grade. Flavor: Rancid, badly "off," anything inferior to second grade. Body and Texture: Very weak, very open, showing pin- holes or porous, very ' ' acidy, ' ' very soft or very dry. Color: Badly mottled, or very objectionable shade. Finish: Anything worse than second grade. Boxes: No question of boxes sufficient to make third grade if other qualities are good. The following scale of points indicates the relative value of the different divisions of quality: Flavor, 40; body and tex- ture, 30 ; color, 15 ; finish and boxing, 15. For further explana- tions of qualities and defects, reference is made to the original publication cited. INDEX Acid test, Manns', 64; Marschall, 65. Acidimeter, use in cheese making, 64. Acidity test, Farrington, 50. Aeration of milk, 18. Aerators, different kinds, 18. Albumen, 2. Albuminoids, 1. Alkaline tablet test, 50. American Cheddar cheese, definition of a g-ood, 199. American dairy salt, composition, 79. Analyses of different kinds of cheese, 197; of milk and other dairy pro- ducts, 196. Annatto color, 53. Ash, 2. Babcock test, 24; apparaturs used, 25; reading, 26, 29. Bacteria in milk, varieties, 15. Bacterial infection, bad flavor from, 14. Bad flavors in milk, causes, 14. Bath room in cheese factory, 127. Block Swiss cheese, 138, 154; boxing, 159; handling in cellar, 159; press- ing, 154. Brick cheese, 162; characteristics, 162; curing process, 166; dipping curd, 163; draining boards, 164; draining table, 164; milk for, 162; molds, 164; Munster, 168; press- ing, 165; salting, 165; shipping, 168. Buyer's stencil, 108. Buttiro cheese, 192. By-laws for cheese-factory associa- tions, 131. Camembert cheese, 189. Canadian Cheddar cheese, score. 111, 207; standards for, 206. Canadian Club Cheese, 190. Canned cheese, 190. Casein, 1; test for, 33. Cheddar cheese, Canadian, standards for, 206; defects in, 199; defects in flavor, 199; in texture, 202; in color, 205; in finish, 205; factories, in New York, 48; in Ohio, 49; in Wisconsin, 49; farm, 191; history, 48; processes of manufacture, 49. Cheddar system of cheese making, 49. Cheddars, weight and diameter, 83. Cheese, anab'sesi, 8, 195; bandages, 84; boxing, 106; cold-curing, 104; color, 113; constituents recovered in making, 10; corky, 113; cracked, 114; cracks in, 89; crumbly, 114; curing, 94; effect of too much salt, SO; flavor, 111; greasing, 88; green, composition, 8; gross appearance, 113; hard, 114; judging, 110; marking, 108; mealy, 114; packages, common, 82; paraffining, 105; poison, 115; pressing, 82; print, 90; pasty, 114; rates for making, 133; rusty spots, 114; salt, 113; selling, 108; shrinkage in curing, 102; stand- ards for purity, 198; testing, 29; texture, 112; weak-bodied, 114; weighing, 106; yield from milk of different quality, 6, 135, 198. Cleanliness in cheese factories, 19. Cloth circles, 89. Club House cheese, 190. Cheese color, 53; requirements of dif- ferent markets, 54, 113. Cheese cloth circles, 89. Cheese factory associations, organi- zation, 131; by-laws, 131. Cheese factories, construction, 117; cost, 130; equipment, 128, 129; operation, 117. Cheese in cold storage, 39. Cheese making, first steps, 50. Cheese market of the United States, 197. Cheese, moldy, cleaning of, 89. 208 Index. 209 Cheese presses, 83; Helmer, 84; Moore's, 83; Sprague, 83. Cheese press cloths, 89. Cheese score, American, 110; Cana- dian, 111, 207; BngUsh, 111. Cheese trier, 111. Cococavallo cheese, 192. Cold-curing of Cheddar cheese, 104. Cold-storage cheese, 89. Colostrum milk, 8. Composite milk samples, 32. Cottage cheese, 184; dipping, 186; hydrochloric-acid cheese, 187; marketing, 187; method of manu- facture, 184; regulation of moist- ure, 185. Cream cheese, 187. Curd, composition, 8; cutting, 57; heating, 59- milking, 71; over- ripe, cooking, 60; salting, 78. Curd knives, 57. Curd mills, 72; Barnard, 74; B. & W., 73; Elgin, 72; Fuller, 74; Gosselin, 74; Harris, 74; Kasper, 74; McPherson, 73; Pohl, 72; Roe. 72; Whitlow, 73. Curd rack, 66. Curd rakes, 60. Curd sink, 69. Curd stirrer, 61. Curd test, the Wisconsin, 15. Curds, from milk of different qual- ity, 17; pin-holey, 68; steaming, 77; washed, 68. Curing cheese, 94; at different tem- peratures', 94; changes in, 94; shrinkage in, 102. Curing room, 117; floor, 118; air, con- dition of, 101; supplying moist- ure, 101; moisture in, 95. Curing rooms, central, 103. Curing shelves, 94. Dairy salt, American, composition of, 79. Daisies, 83. Danish pasteurized skim milk cheese, 193. Dean's method of payment for milk at factories, 135. Dividends, figuring, 133. Drum Swiss cheese, 138, 153; hox- ing, 159; pressing, 153. Edam cheese, 174; characteristics. 174; curing, 182; dressing, 181; market, description of, 177; method of manufacture, 179; or- igin, 174; molds, 180; possibilities of manufacture, in America, 181; preparing for market, 182; salt- ing, 181. English cheese score. 111. Enzymes, 34. Export cheese, Danish, 193. Factory cleanliness, 19; statement, 135; surroundings, 22. Fancy cheeses, 189. Farm Cheddar cheese, 191. Farrington alkaline tablet test, 50, 64. Fat, 3; effect on quality of cheese, 5; effect on quantity of cheese, 6, 135; loss in whey, 9. Fat globules, 3. Feed, bad flavors in milk from, 14. Ferments, organized, 34; unorgan- ized, 34. Figuring dividends, 133; by Dean's method, 135; by fat test, 134; by pooling system, 134. Flats, 83. Foreign cheeses, 189. Eraser gang hoops, 86. Galactase, 35. Glaesler cheese, 141, 144. Gouda cheese, 191. Government standards for purity of cheese, 198. "Green cheese," 194. Haris curd mill, 74; rennet test, 37. Hart's casein test, 33. Helmer cheese press, 84. Herrick, curd knife, 67. Holland, farming in, 174. Hoops, Fi-aser gang, 83, 84, 86; Wil- son, 86. Hot-iron test, 63. Humidity, relative, table showing, 98. Hygrometer, 96. Hygroscope, 96. I Ideal Cheddar cheese, 110. Imitation Neufchatel cheese. 187. Infection of milk, 15. Italian cheese, 192. Judging cheese, 110. Kasper curd mill, 74. Knife mills, 72. Kraeuter cheese, 194. 15 210 Cheese Making. I/actometer, Board of Health, 31; Quevenne, 30. Limburg-er cheese, 169; cellar, 172; characteristics, 169; cooking curd, 170; curing, 172; dipping curd, 170; milk for, 169; origin, 169; pressing table, 171; salting, 171; shipping, 172; utensils, 169. Manns' acid test, 64. Making cheese, rates for, 133. Marschall acid test, 64; rennet test, 40; errors to be avoided with, 41. McPherson curd rake, 61. Milk, aeration, 18; care, 18; compo- site samples, 32; composition, 1, 4, 196; contamination, 12; cool- ing, 19; factory, variations, 4; over-ripe, tests for, 50; products, composition, 196; samples, pre- serving, 32; secretion, 12; sugar, 2; testing, 24; thief, 32; time of secretion, 13; uses, 1; utensils, care of, 19; watered, detection of, 31. Molds, how to kill, 22. Moldy cheese, cleaning, 89. Monrad rennet test, 39. Muenster cheese, 168. Neufchatel cheese, 187. Niszler cheese, 141. Pantegras cheese, 191. Paracasein, 94. Paraffining cheese, 105; tank for, 106. Pasteurized skim milk cheese, 193. Peg mills, 72. Pepsin, scale, compared with rennet, 46; use in cheese making, 55. Poison cheese, 115. Pooling system, method of payment by, 134. Potted cheese, 190. Press cloths, 89. Print cheese, 90. Proteins, 1. Psychrometer, 96. Quevenne lactometer, 30. Records, keeping daily, 91. Relative humidity, tables, 98. Rennet, action of, 43; thermal des- truction point, 45. Rennet, effect of acid, 37, 43; alkali, 43; anesthetics, 44; heat, 36; milk preservatives, 46; salt, 44; soluble calcium salts, 46; temperature, 44; water in milk, 44. Rennet extract, 35; effect of strength, 45; manufacture, 35. Rennet test, 37; in Swiss-cheese making, 144; Marschall, 40. Rennets, commercial, 35. Rieotte cheese, 193. Rusty spots in cheese, 114, Sage cheese, 195. Salt and its impurities. 78. Salt, effect of too/ much, on cheese, 80. Salting cheese, temperature, 81. Sampling tube, Scovell, 32. Scale boards, 107. Scamorze cheese, 192. Schabziger cheese, 194. Scoring cheese, scale for, 110. Scovell sampling tube, 32. Septic tank, 125, 126. Skim-milk cheese, 193. Soaked curd cheese, 69. Soft cream cheese, 187. Standards for purity of cheese, gov- ernment, 198. Startaline, 53. Starter, lactic ferment, 52; use in cheese making, 52. Stencil, buyer's, 108. Sub-earth ducts, 120. Swiss cheese, 137; block, 138; cause of glaesler, 144; cellars, 158; characteristics, 137; color, 140; description, 137; determining quality, 138; dipping curd, 152; drum, 138; flavor, 139; grades, 140; glaesler, 141; how tried, 141; marking, 155; method of manu- facture, 147; milk for, 144; nisz- ler, 141; prices of different grades, 142; requirements, 141; salting, 156; texture, 139; where made, 137; whey from, 9; work in curing room, 158. Swiss curd, cutting, 149. Swiss harp, 149. Swiss kettles, 146. Test committee, 132. Udder, structure, 12. Index. 211 Washing- curds, 68. Watered milk, detection, 31. Whey, composition, 9; drawing, 63; from Swiss cheese, 9; losses of fat, 9. Whey tank, how built, 126. Wilson cheese hoops, 86. Wire stirrer, 149. Wisconsin curd test, 15. Yield of cheese from 100 lbs. of milk, 198; from milk of different com- position, 6, 135. Young Americas, 82. THE MARSCHALL RENNET TEST Is known by Cheesemakers all over the world and THE MARSCHALL AGIO TEST on account of its simplicity is rapidly replacing all breakable and complicated apparatus for the accurate determination of the acidity of milk and cream. See page 64 of this book. OYER 50 MILLION LBS. OF CHEESE t.^^4y ' -«as? >! ^^g made in Wisconsin with Price, Complete, S4.00 The Marschall Rennet Extract during 1908. and nearly all the best prizes and the highest scores of the year went to our customers. Shipped direct to you from our Laboratory at Madison, Wisconsin. Also Cheese Color, Rennet Powder, Rennet Tablets, Dry Neulralizers, Etc. The MarschaH Dairy Laboratory, Madison, Wisconsin D. H. BURRELL & CO. LITTLE FALLS, - NEW YORK Branches: Rome, New York and Brockville, Ontario Manufacturers of and dealers in apparatus and supplies for the manufacture of cheese and butter, and also for the handling of milk in any quantity. SOME OF OUR SPECIALTIES ARE Sanitary Milk and Cream Vats Sprague Automatic Adjustable Presses "Simplex" Cream Pasteurizers "Simplex" Tubular Coolers "Facile" Babcock Testers, etc. Write!forOur Catalog and Price List Mention DECKER, CHEESE MAKING, when writing to advertisers Chr. Hansen's Dairy Preparations ARE WORLD'S STANDARDS Leaders in every country where butter and cheese are made -- Europe, America, Australia Chr. Hansen's Danish Rennet Extract, Danish Cheese Color, Danish Butter Color, Lactic Ferment Culture Rennet Tablets and Cheese Color Tablets for Cheese Making on the Farm. : : : : : Manufactured and put up only by CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY BOX 1000 LITTLE FALLS, NEW YORK BOOKS by PROF. F. W. WOLL A HANDBOOK FOR FARMERS AND DAIRYMEN, Fifth Edition, 1908, XV and 496 pp $1.50 GROTENFELT'S MODERN DAIRY PRACTICE. Third Amer- ican Edition, 1905, 286 pp 2.00 A BOOK ON SILAGE, Second Edition, 1900, 234 pp 1.00 TESTING MILK AND ITS PRODUCTS. 18th Edition. 1908.292 pp. (Jointly with Prof. E. H. Farrin^ton; 1.00 Sent prepaid on receipt of the price given MENDOTA BOOK CO., Madison, Wis. The Creamery Package Mfg. Co Manufacturers and Dealers in Supplies and Apparatus for Cheese Factories, Creameries :: and Dairies. :: Catalog Free — Correspondence Solicited Main House CHICAGO, ILLINOIS Branches: Kansas City, Mo. Minneapolis, Minn. Waterloo, la. Omaha, Nebraska Rutland, Vermont Mention DECKER, CHEESE MAKING when writing to Advertisers The Cheese Maker s Library DEC/iTE/?— CHEESE MAKING; Domestic and For- eign, 1909. New revised edition by F. W. Woll $1.75 FARRINGTON-WOLL— TESTING MILK AND ITS PRODUCTS, eighteenth edition, 1908 1.00 Wing — Milk and its Products, sixth edition, 1903 1.50 Dean — Canadian Dairying, 1903 1.00 Grotenfelt — Modern Dairy Practice, 1905. 2.00 Russell — Dairy Bacteriology, fifth edition, 1903 1.00 Monrad — A B C in Cheese Making, fourth edition, 1902 .50 Monrad — Cheese Making in Switzerland 50 Woll — Handbook for Farmers and Dairymen, 1908. . . . 1.50 Fleischmann— Book of the Dairy, 1896 3.00 Kirchner — Handbuch der Milchwirtschaft, fifth edition, 1907 3.50 V. Klenze — Handbuch der Kaserei-Technik, 1884 4.25 Leze — Les Industries de Lait, 1891 1.50 The preceding books will be sent prepaid on receipt of draft or money order for $20.00. Separate books will be sent pre- paid on receipt of the price given. Mendota Book Co., Madison, Wis. IAN 25 1909 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS DDD0fiTlE41S I 0! <. n ■ M ■