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THE 
 
 ART OF DRESSING WELL, 
 
 A COMPLETE GUIDE 
 
 ECONOMY, STYLE AND PROPRIETY OF COSTUME. 
 
 CONTAINING FULL INFORMATION ON ALL POINTS RELATING TO LADIES 
 AND gentlemen's DRESS, AT ALL TIMES, PLACES AND SEA- 
 SONS ; INCLUDING VALUABLE RECEIPTS FOR THE TOILET, 
 AND THOROUGH DIRECTIONS FOR THE TREATMENT 
 AND RENOVATION OF ALL KINDS OF FABRICS. 
 
 TO WHICH ARE ADDED 
 
 ONE HUNDEED HINTS FOE DEESSING WELL. 
 By S( A^ frost, 
 
 Author of lYost's Laws and By-Laws of American Society, cC-c., <£c. 
 
 I 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 DICK & FITZGERALD, PUBLISHERS 
 
 No. 18 Ann Street. 
 
Oy 
 
 <A 
 
 ."O 
 
 \ 
 
 
 Entered according' to Act of Congress, in the j-ear 1870, by 
 
 DICK&FITZGERALD, 
 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the j 
 Southern District of New York, 
 
 ^fy 
 
 /^a 
 
 ^ 
 
PEEFAOE. 
 
 The writer of the present little volume on the Art of Dressing 
 Well, aspires to meet a social requirement of long standing, name- 
 ly, a work of genuine authority upon color, taste, occasion, and 
 variety in dress ; not merely a book on fashion, but such hints as 
 will be useful at all times, whatever changes in style the capricious 
 Dame Fashion may dictate. Many books professing to treat of 
 the subject have been before the public, but they are so closely 
 allied to mere fashion books, that their hints are as useless in a 
 few years, as the directions in to-day's magazine of lady's dress. 
 
 It is with a different object that this little volume is offered ; to 
 meet the requirements of any season, place, or time ; to offer 
 such suggestions as will be valuable to the young ; to those just 
 entering society ; to brides, for whose guidance a complete trous- 
 seau is described ; to persons in mourning ; indeed, to every class 
 and individual who pays attention to the important objects of 
 economy, style, and propriety of costume. . 
 
All 
 
 '3oi 
 h 
 Ir 
 Oc 
 It 
 
COI^TENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 The Art of Dressing "Well 7 
 
 Principles of Color.... 11 
 
 Harmony and Contrast of Colors 15 
 
 Arrangement of Colors 21 
 
 Color in Relation to Complexion 27 
 
 Materials of Dress 33 
 
 i Jewelry 35 
 
 I Occasion 37 
 
 Morning Dresses— Breakfast 39 
 
 Marketing 40 
 
 Shopping 42 
 
 Promenade 43 
 
 Visiting 47 
 
 To Receive Calls 4B 
 
 Out-Door Dresses— Driving 51 
 
 " Riding 52 
 
 •* Church 55 
 
 " Croquet..' 56 
 
 " Skating 57 
 
 " PiC-NIC 59 
 
 " Travelling 60 
 
 " Stormy Weather 63 
 
 Wedding Dresses— Bride and Trousseau 64 
 
 " Bridesmaid 71 
 
 " Receptions 73 
 
 " Bridal Calls 75 
 
6 
 
 COA'TENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Dinner Dresses— Hostess 76 
 
 " Guest 77 
 
 Evening Dresses— Hostess 73 
 
 " Calls 79 
 
 " Sociable 80 
 
 " Tub Soiree and Ball-Eoom SI 
 
 " The Opera 85 
 
 " • Concert 88 
 
 " Theatre 90 
 
 Sea-Side Dresse? ; '91 
 
 Mourning 92 
 
 How TO Make a Dress '. 96 
 
 Laces, Muslins, Fine Linen, and Fuuk 100 
 
 Gloves, Boots, Silks, and Velvet 
 
 Management of the Hair 
 
 Care of the Complexion and Hand? 
 
 Dentifrice and Lip-Salves 
 
 Cold Cream, Perfumes, &c 
 
 General Remarks 
 
 Sanitary Hints 
 
 Gentlemen's Dress 
 
 One Hundred Hints for Dressing Well. 
 
 103 
 106 
 109 
 112 
 114 
 117 
 123 
 130 
 14G 
 
THE AET OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 Everybody, we may assume at the opening of this our volume 
 on the Art of Dressing Well, desires to make a favorable impres- 
 sion upon society. No argument is needed to convince our read- 
 ers of the advantage of dressing gracefully, richly, splendidly, or 
 plainly, as time or place require, yet, with reference to themselves, 
 always becomingly. 
 
 In this age of black suits for the sterner sex, our opening chap- 
 ters upon color must necessarily be more especially addressed to 
 ladies. Every lady possesses that innate love of the beautiful 
 which suggests the desire to appear at all times and in all places 
 in appropriate and becoming costume. She does not need Sir 
 Philip Sidney to tell her that in a happily chosen dress there is that 
 
 " Which doth even beauty beautify, 
 And most bewitch the captiv'd eye." 
 
 And few will dispute the fact that the art of dressing well is great- 
 ly dependent, not only upon a skillful selection, but also on a taste- 
 ful arrangement of colors, or that without this artistic finish, the 
 richest and costliest materials are of comparatively little avail. 
 
 The pleasure derived from the contemplation of beautiful colors 
 is one of the most universally diffused sources of enjoyment 
 Some have indeed supposed the feeling for beauty and harmony 
 of color to be an innate faculty. This may be true of the educated 
 and refined, to whom glaring tints and discordant combinations 
 are repulsive, but the uncultivated eye is more often attracted by 
 gaudy than harmonious hues. While, therefore, we will acknow- 
 
'8 THE ART OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 ledge that the enjoyment of color is universal, we must pause he- 
 fore we admit that the feeling for beauty in color is also universal, 
 or that the art of arranging colors, like that of reading and writing, 
 " comes by nature." 
 
 We do not deny Avhat has been asserted by some writers on 
 painting, that a great colorist, like a great poet, must be born, not 
 made ; but it is, nevertheless, consistent with all experience that 
 the eye may be improved by culture, and that the feeling for color, 
 if it caimot be created, may be developed and disciplined by judi- 
 cious training. 
 
 But, it may be objected, however true this may be of the sterner 
 sex, does it hold good with reference to the fairer half of creation 1 
 Has not a great authority on color written— "The female eye 
 seems to be particularly receptive and perceptive of the tender, 
 beautiful, and expressive relations of colors ; and we have repeat- 
 edly heard it remarked by that graceful painter and colorist, the 
 former president of the Royal Academy, England, Sir Thomas 
 Lawrence, whose subjects were from the high and refined classes 
 of the sex, that in no instance whatever had he occasion to request 
 or desire any change of the colors in which they presented them- 
 selves, so judicious and natural was their taste and feeling as to 
 what best suited their character, complexion, and expression." 
 
 Tliis is quite true, but another authority asserts that although 
 Sir Thomas Lawrence would assure his fair visitors, in his bland- 
 est accents, that he could " desire no change of the colors in which 
 they presented themselves," yet, directly they had left his studio, 
 he would proceed to make very extensive changes on the canvas, 
 But even if it were literally as Sir Thomas is reported to have 
 said, and true also that he did not alter the colors on the canvas, 
 it must be remembered that the painter has the power of so ad- 
 justing the accessories of his picture as to subdue at will what is 
 harsh or crude in the drapery, while by a dexterous adaptation of 
 the background, he can bring the whole into harmony. Remem- 
 ber, likewise, that Sir Thomas Lawrence's sitters were " from the 
 high and refined classes of the sex," and that we do not mean to 
 imply that there are not many among them — and many among re- 
 fined ladies who may not occupy the highest places in society — 
 who are in the fullest sense " receptive and perceptive of the 
 tender, beautiful, and expressive relation of colors," and from 
 
THE ART OF DRESSING WELL. 9 
 
 whom we should be only too happy to learn, instead of venturing' 
 to teach them, those relations, and their application in individual 
 cases. It is for those who are less exquisitely gifted, and less 
 highly accomplished, that this little book is sent forth. 
 
 For them we propose to point out some of the laws which regu- 
 late the combination and mutual relations of colors, and their ap- 
 plication to dress. This may seem a hard and dry way of arriving 
 at the desired information, but it will be found the most satis- 
 factory. What we desire to prove is, that there are laws which 
 conduce to the harmonious combinations of colors, even in dress, 
 and to remove the application of those laws from the regions of 
 chance or caprice. 
 
 Success in dress does not result from happy guessing. On the 
 other hand, a knowledge of laws will not insure invariable success. 
 The application of the law may be mistaken ; some counterbalanc- 
 ing condition or circumstance may have been overlooked ; yet a 
 knowledge of the laws will render success more probable, and 
 the cause of failure more evident, and easier to avoid in the future. 
 
 Another advantage of thus studying the principles of color aud 
 their application, is that it will promote individuality instead of 
 uniformity of style. A milliner, taking the latest Parisian author- 
 ity, and applying a few of the rules of her especial calling, gives 
 her confiding customers a strictly fashionable livery ; pattern 
 colors, trimmings, are all strictly in the mode. She may reluctant- 
 ly consent to modify and alter slightly in particular instances, 
 where the tact or taste acquired by experience insists upon pre- 
 serving some individuality, but her law is simply Fashion. On the 
 other hand, the lady of refined taste, who understands the laws of 
 harmonious color, perceives that whilst yielding to the imperative 
 dictates of fashion, she can yet, by an intelligent choice of materi- 
 als, and orderly arrangement of hues, so far qualify the general 
 character of her costume as to maintain her own personality, and 
 yet produce a far more pleasing result than if she had strictly 
 copied the fashion-plate in the last fashionable magazine. 
 
 But there is more needed than a mere knowledge of principles. 
 You may be entirely acquainted with the laws of color, and yet be 
 a poor colorist. You may even clearly comprehend their applica- 
 tion in dress, and yet not dress well. For after all theories are ex- 
 hausted, the true art of dressing well can only be learned by ob- 
 
10 THE ART OF DRESSING WELL. 
 
 servation and careful experiment. To dress well you must be ac- 
 customed to observe attentively and critically the style of those 
 who in this respect are most successful in their endeavors, as to 
 learn to color well the painter must thoroughly study the works of 
 great colorists. Yet by this do not understand that you are to 
 blindly folio «' the lead of any model ; for what may appear perfect 
 upon one individual, might be entirely absurd and faulty upon 
 another. Even in the best society there are many instances of 
 those v/ho never succeed in dressing well ; whose clothes never 
 suit their peculiar style of appearance ; whose colors are never 
 happily combined. 
 
 In observing such persons you will appreciate the value of a 
 knowledge of the arrangement and relatiotss of colors. This know- 
 ledge will enable you at once to see why certain colors are incon- 
 fjruous, out of place, or ill-assorted ; and* why, in other instances, 
 all seems harmonious and suitable, and consequently pleasing. To 
 attain success it is unquestionably necessary to have some practice 
 and experience ; but the experience will be much more quickly 
 acquired, and a happy result much more readily attained, when the 
 observation is well directed, and the selections governed by judg- 
 mevit. In this, as in all matters of taste, the first and greatest 
 step is to learn to think for yourself, and to think correctly, and 
 with satisfactory reasons for the conclusioq^ at which you arrive. 
 
 To guide the judgment in this first stage of progress is the pur- 
 pose of the first chapters of this volume, which will be devoted to 
 hints how to observe and arrange colors in dress, generally, before 
 giving more minute directions for the style of dress suitable for 
 the different occasions required by those moving in society. 
 
 We have already spoken of this branch of the art of dressing 
 well as a question of taste. A certain amount of natural taste is 
 necessarily taken for granted, but it must be constantly watched 
 and cultivated Even with good taste, observation, and knowledge, 
 you must be content to study and advance slowly towards the de- 
 sired perfection in result 
 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds, the greatest authority on color, says : 
 " Color is the last attainment of excellence in every school of paint- 
 ing." 
 
 And color is likewise the last attainment of excellence in the art 
 of dressing well. 
 
PRINCIPLES OF COLOR. 
 
 PEINCIPLES OF COLOE. 
 
 11 
 
 Let us try to understand, in a simple, rudimentary way, what is 
 
 meant by the laws, principles, or, as some express it, the theory of 
 
 color. We have said in a simple, rudimentary way, for it will not 
 
 he necessary for our purpose even to glance at the scientific side 
 
 !j of the subject. Color, in the eyes of the man of science, is a 
 
 I! branch of optics, very beautiful in itself, very refined in its analysis, 
 
 :| and full of interest in its phenomena, but subtle, complex, and dif- 
 
 I ficult of investigation, 
 
 I We, however, have to deal with a more ordinary every-day ap- 
 ! plication of those practical laws of color which have been v/orked 
 out for the guidance of the artist, and which may be made avail- 
 able for the guidance of all who employ colors for artistic or dec- 
 orative purposes. 
 
 Colors, as has already been stated, depend upon judicious ar- 
 rangement for harmonious combination, and lacking this, will form 
 ofiensive and glaring effects. Every one is aware from their own 
 experience" that colors which taken separately are beautiful and 
 pleasing, may, when brought into contact with each other, produce 
 the most faulty effects ; while, on the other hand, tints that are 
 offensively bright or dull seen apart, can be so gi'ouped and con- 
 trasted as to produce the most exquisite combinations. 
 
 The common expression is that such colors, or colors so placed, 
 agree with one another ; or, on the contrary, do not agree with one 
 another. 
 
 Some peculiarities, therefore, inihe nature or functions of colors 
 possess certain relations to each otlier, or in some way affect each 
 other when brought into juxtaposition. Therefore it will greatly 
 assist in learning how to form pleasing and agreeable combinations 
 of color to know something of the principles of these mutual rela- 
 tions. But, in order to acquire this knowledge, we must commence 
 a stage earlier ; we must take for a starting-point the individual 
 character of each color. For our purpose it will be sufficient to 
 set forth and elucidate the relations of colors in themselves, their 
 modifications, and the laws which should regulate their combina- 
 tions. 
 
12 PRINCIPLES OF COLOR. 
 
 There are a few leading terms which are employed in all accept- 
 ed classifications of colors, which it will be necessary to understand 
 before we enter upon a consideration of their relations, modifica- 
 tions, and combinations. In this view colors are considered as : 
 
 Frimary : that is simple or uncompouhded colors. 
 
 Secondary: binary or compound colors ; that is, such as are 
 formed by the mixture of equal parts of any two of the primaries. 
 
 .Tertiary: ternary or mixed colors 5 that is, such as are formed 
 by admixture of equal parts of two of the secondaries. 
 
 It is unnecessary to follow the divisions farther. These are 
 terms which are frequently used in speaking of colors, and should 
 be understood. They will be more easily comprehended and re- 
 membered when put in a tabular form. 
 
 Friniary colors : red, blue, yellow. 
 
 Secondary colors : purple (compound of red and blue), green 
 (compound of blue and yellow), orange (compound of yellow and 
 red). 
 
 Tertiary colors: olive (compound of purple and green), citrine 
 (compound of green and orange), russet (compound of orange and 
 purple). 
 
 It ought here to be stated that whilst the secondary and tertiary 
 colors are thus produced in theory, they are not, from the imper- 
 fect nature of our pigments, so formed in reality. Actually there 
 are pigments which yield more brilliant purples, oranges, and the 
 like, than would be obtained by the mixture of red and blue, or 
 red and yellow. The browns, grays, slates, drabs, and colors of a 
 like nature, have been sometimes grouped into a class as irregular 
 colors, but amongst colorists generally are known as neutral colors. 
 
 Black and white are not classed by scientific men among colors ; 
 the one being merely a privatioii or absorption of light ; the other 
 a union of the colored rays. Yet, for practical purposes, the color- 
 ist regards black and white as the extreme colors of his scale, 
 though, on the authority of Chevreul, they would be as convenient- 
 ly regarded as the extreme points of each color, according as it is 
 deepened or lightened in tone. We will take black and white, 
 however, as extreme colors. 
 
 Complementary or accidental colors come next in order. If we look 
 'steadily for a time at a red wafer lying upon a sheet of white 
 paper, and then turn the eye to the blank space upon the sheet, 
 
PRINCIPLES OF COLOR. 13 
 
 we see a faint image of the wafer, but of a light green color. If we 
 j do the same with a blue wafer, the image will be orange. For 
 ' each of the primaries, in fact, the color of the image will be that of 
 the compound of the other two ; and as this holds good through- 
 out, the color of the object added to the color of the image making 
 up all the colors of white light, the color of the image, or the acci- 
 dental color, has received the name of complementary. For our 
 purpose it will be enough to remember that the complementary 
 color of any primary is the compound of the other two primaries, 
 thus : 
 
 Primitive Colors. Complementary Colors. 
 
 Red, Green, 
 
 Blue, Orange, 
 
 Yellow, Purple. 
 
 These are also often termed contrasting colors ; thus red is con- 
 sidered the contrasting color of green ; blue the contrasting color 
 of orange, and yellow of j)urple ; but the term is not well chosen, 
 as these colors are in reality concords, and not contrasts. 
 Warm colors, and cold colors, are terms in constant use. 
 Warm colors are those in which red and yellow predominate. 
 Cold colors are those in which blue predominates. 
 Black and white are either warm or cold colors according to 
 their position. The following scale will illustrate this : 
 Warm colors : white, yellow, orange, red, brown, black. 
 Cold colors: white, olive, green, blue, black. 
 
 Chevreul in his work upon Colors* and their application to the 
 arts, defines tmtes as " the different degrees of intensity of which a 
 color is susceptible according to the proi)ortions in which it is 
 mixed with white or black," and he has given a series of ''chro- 
 matic gamuts," in each of Avhich he has represented twenty well 
 defined tones of the particular color lying between black and white, 
 which, as stated before, he regards as the extreme tone of each 
 separate color. Field, and most of the English and American 
 authorities, however, call the degi-ees of intensity produced in a 
 color by the mixture of black with it, shades, and those obtained by 
 the mixture of white, tints. Hues are the bright colors produced 
 by the mixture of two or more colors. 
 
 Broken colors are the dull colors produced by mixture of colors. - 
 
 * Des Couleurs et de leurs Applications aux Arts. 
 
14 PRINCIPLES OF. COLOR. 
 
 Modified colors are the well-defined varieties of one color, and are 
 classed under that color. Thus the modifications of red are crim- 
 son, rose, pink, and scarlet : of yellow — lemon, canary, buff, and 
 chrome ; and so on. 
 
 Some writers have dwelt upon the positive influence which they 
 conceive to be produced by particular colors on the eye, and on 
 the mind, and to this they attribute the soothing or irritating effect 
 of certain colors, whether seen alone or in certain combinations. 
 Poets have availed themselves largely of this assumed susceptibil- 
 ity, and it has also been adopted by writers on the theory of colors, 
 who have expatiated on the soft and soothing impressions pro- 
 duced by some colors, the attractive and stimulating eflfect of 
 others, and the depressing or irritating effect of still different 
 arrangements. Goethe has even devoted a chapter of his " Far- 
 benlehre " to the " Effect of Color with reference to Moral Associ- 
 ations." 
 
 That particular colors may and frequently do excite particular 
 states of feeling, there can be little doubt, but this applies onlj' to 
 particular individuals, and is due to circumstances peculiar to their 
 characters or lives. The same colors would probably produce a 
 different effect upon difterent persons. We may, however, admit 
 that as a rule gayety is associated with light and bright colors, and 
 that this association has given rise to their popular name, cheerful 
 colors, and that the equally popular term, sombre colors, certainly ap- 
 plies to dull and dark coloring. 
 
 Goethe asserts that ' yellow excites a warm and agreeable im- 
 pression," and that, on the contrary, "sulphur is unpleasant;'' that 
 " blue-red produces a restless, susceptible, anxious impression," 
 and that " a perfectly pure, deep blue-red would be intolerable ;" 
 that ''blue gives us an impression of cold, as red does of warmth, 
 whilst from green the eye experiences a decidedly grateful impres-' 
 sion." 
 
 It would, however, be easy to trace these impressions, whether 
 general or individual, to previous mental associations, and to prove 
 that they are not duo to tJie colors themselves, or to any specific 
 physical effect which they produce upon the retina or optic nerve. 
 
 The idea is suggestive, in spite of its liability to be attributed 
 more to imagination than sober fact, and not without its value as 
 applicable to the subject of dress as an art. 
 
HARMONY AND CONTRA,"}!' OF COLORS. 15 
 
 HAEMONY AND CONTEAST OF COLOES. 
 
 m 
 
 Harmony of colors corresponds, in a measure, to harmony 
 music. It arises from the due balance of well chosen and well 
 arranged colors or tones. Many attempts have been made to re- 
 duce harmony of colors to mathematical principles, and to lay down 
 rules for producing it according to certain schemes of definite pro- 
 portions, or chromatic equivalents. One of the most curious, and 
 to the non-scientific mind, amusing illustrations of the complacen- 
 cy with which some of these schemes have been enunciated, is the 
 following, written, evidently, when the author had been newly con- 
 templating an arrangement of colors made from his " Scale of 
 Chromatic Equivalents : " " The eye is quiet and the mind soothed 
 and complacent when colors are opposed to each other in equiva- 
 lent proportions chromatically, or in such proportions as neutral- 
 ize their individual activities. This is perfect harmony, or union 
 of colors. But the eye and mind are agreeably moved also when 
 the mathematical proportions of opposed or conjoined colors are 
 such as to produce agreeable combinations to sense. Thus colors 
 in the abstract are a mere variation of relations of the same thing. 
 Black and white are the same color ; and since colors are mere 
 relations, if there were only one color in the world, there would be 
 no color at all ; " which is a condition we have no wish to realize- 
 This method of attaining perfect harmony will not suit our purpose 
 at all. We must try to view the subject from a less abstract^ 
 mathematical, or equivalent chromatical point of view. 
 
 This belief that harmony of colors can be regulated according to 
 mathematical proportions, arises from the error of pushing too far 
 the analogy with harmony in music. If the present meaning of 
 the term harmony were the one in which it was regarded by the 
 ancients, the analogy might be admitted with perfect propriety ; 
 according to them harmony was " the due relationship and suc- 
 cession of sounds producing a pleasing melody." So harmony of 
 color is the combination of colors in such relationship and pro- 
 portion as produces an agreeable impression on the eye. As far 
 as we can see, harmony of color is, and will continue to be, the re- 
 
16 HARMONY AND VONTKAiiT OF COLOUR. 
 
 suit of feeling rather than of figures. No great colorist ever 
 Avorked by scale. Something of the kind has been attempted in i 
 decoration, but we do not believe it will ever be applied to dress. 
 
 For dress it will be sufficient to define or explain harmony of 
 color as an agreeable arrangement of accordant colors Harmoni- 
 ous arrangement may consist of two or more colors which have an 
 affinity with, or are concords to one another, or of a well balanced 
 combination of warm and cold colors. For the production of com- 
 plete harmony it has been asserted that the whole prismatic scale 
 should be included ; as it is virtually, as already explained, the op- 
 position of a primary with its complementary color. This is by no 
 means a new idea. More than three centuries ago Leonardo da 
 Vinci laid it down as a fundamental principle. He says : " Har- 
 mony of color requires the colors in contact to be of the same na- 
 ture. If you wish that the proximity of one color should give 
 beauty to another that terminates near it, observe the rays of the 
 sun in the composition of the rainbow." 
 
 But it must not be assumed that the colors in contact are to be 
 limited to those of the same nature — warm with warm, cold with 
 cold — or that they are to imite as in the rainbow, by insensible 
 gradations. Neither for picture nor dress would this do. Harmony 
 requires well balanced proportions — it may be of warm colors with 
 cold, weak with strong, or in any other manner that will produce 
 the desired efiect — but there must be balance as well as affinity 
 and proportion, or there will be weakness as well as monotony. 
 We find this balance invariably in the best pictures of the great 
 colorists, and in arguing on harmony of colors we must always 
 turn to them as a lawyer does to his leading authorities. Whether 
 the picture be in its general tone warm or cold, we find always one 
 or more colors introduced from the opposite scale, and sometimes 
 the opposite colors are brought into the sharpest contrast. Titian 
 produces some of his finest effects in this way. 
 
 But we have now introduced a word of which it is necessary to 
 obtain a distinct conception before we go any further. That word 
 is contrast — a most important element in a picture, and quite as im- 
 portant in dress. 
 
 Leonardo da Vinci after saying, in the passage previously quoted, 
 that " Harmony requires the colors in contact to be of the same 
 
HARMOy^Y AND CONTRAST OF COLORS. 17 
 
 nature," adds: "Contrast is produced by bringing into contact 
 colors which are of an opposite character.'" 
 
 Contrast, therefore, according to this authority, is the opposite 
 of harmony, or at least, is produced by opposite means. In a 
 measure it is analogous to discord in music — but only in a mea- 
 sure. A picture or a dress composed entirely of contrasts would 
 be simply intolerable ; but in order to heighten and give effect to 
 harmonious arrangement, contrast is invaluable. But it requires a 
 nice discrimination to know how, where, and in what proportion to 
 apply it. 
 
 As the simplest illustration of harmony, we instanced the con- 
 junction of a primary color with its complementary. So in like 
 manner we may cite the opposition of two primaries, blue and 
 yellow, as the simplest example of contrast. But from the un- 
 settled phraseology of writers on colors and artists, this might be 
 misunderstood by some, objected to by others. The primaries, 
 blue and yellow, or red and blue, it would be said form a contrast 
 admitted by all colorists, but red with green, a primary with its 
 complementary, is also expressly given as an example of contrast 
 by Leonardo da Vinci in the passage following that last quoted. 
 It is so certainly ; and on the principle laid down by the great 
 artist that "harmony consists in bringing together colors of the 
 same nature," and " contrast in placing colors in contact that are 
 of an opposite character," he is justified in calling red and green a 
 contrast instead of a concord, for one is a warm aird the other a 
 cold color. 
 
 But the contrast between red and green and that between blue 
 and yellow are of an entirely different kind. Red and green, the 
 primary and its complementary, as was stated in the preceding 
 chapter, make up the scale of colors of white light, which blue and 
 red do not. Blue and red are colors in all respects of an opposite 
 character, and can never be placed in contact without the presence 
 of other colors to unite them. But red and green in due propor- 
 tions may be contiguous and yet harmonize. Some, having seen 
 this, have called it harmony by contrast, but that is a nicety which 
 need hardly be regarded here. 
 
 Whatever be the term applied to the combination, it will be 
 found that in due proportions the primaries harmonize with their 
 complementaries, and contrast with each other — the contrast being 
 
18 HARMONY AND CONTRAST OF COLORS. 
 
 Aveaker or stronger according to the greater or less affinity of the 
 opposing colors — and this applies not only to the pure primaries, 
 but also to their modifications. [i 
 
 In applying all these principles to dress, it must not be for- 
 gotten that special stress has been laid upon proportion. Quantity 
 is a most important consideration in harmony and in contrast, i 
 And in using these terms in reference to colors in dress, we shall 11 
 regard contrast as altogether subsidiary to harmony. Harmony, l^ 
 or a harmonious arrangement and combination of colors, we may 
 consider equivalent to an agreeable effect of color in a dress. The 
 object of contrast is to strengthen and enforce the impression pro- 
 duced by the leading color, or combination of colors ; to relieve 
 and invigorate, not to rival, weaken, or interfere with it. 
 
 A few general illustrations will best convey this meaning : a more 
 detailed application to particular colors will be found in the suc- 
 ceeding chapter. 
 
 In every dress there should be found a j^redominani color or character. » 
 This is a rule of universal application. If, in a well-dressed lady 
 this seems to be contradicted, it will be found that the combina- \ 
 tion of colors in her dress is of a kind that produces an effect 
 equivalent to that of a dominant color, and comes under the order |; 
 of a predominant character. The co-existence and contiguity of two ,, 
 colors of equal intensity, and equal in quantity, is a barbarism 
 utterly repugnant to good taste, and opposed to every princi])le of \ 
 art. But where there are more than two, the discordance, though 
 equally real, does not seem to be so obvious — at least such an ar- 
 rangement is more frequently seen. Only when* the colors are 
 somewhat numerous, and so arranged in small quantities in pat- 
 terns, or otherwise, as to produce on the eye the general impres- 
 sion of harmonious and blended tints, can it be tolerated ; but 
 this, though possible in decoration, can but seldom occur in dress. 
 
 The secondary or subordinate colors should be employed, not for their own 
 sakes, but as subsidiary to the predominant color, and with a view to 
 strengthening the impression intended to be produced by it. This also is 
 a rule of very general application. It will be noticed that we say 
 to strengthen the impression intended to be produced. It is by no 
 mpans meant to increase the b-rilliancy of the prevalent hue, or to 
 attract attention. On the contrary, the purpose may be to increase 
 the quiet purity of its aspect, or to lower its brilliancy ; as, of 
 
HARMONY AND CONTRAST OF COLORS. 19 
 
 course, it may be to brighten it, or to render it more gay and pi- 
 quant, or simply to produce with it a generally pleasing and har- 
 monious whole. 
 
 The suhordinate or subsidiary colors slioidd he in %v ell- considered fro- 
 portion and proper relation to the principal color. This is the natural 
 result of following- the previous rules. The object of them all is to 
 lead to what is the true essence and. secret of grace in costume — 
 unity, consistency, and simplicity. 
 
 The prevalent color or character should be adapted to the person, season, 
 and occasion. This is so obvious as to be little better than a truism. 
 Every one feels and acknowledges thaj^ the colors and style which 
 are charming in the youthful maiden, are hardly becoming even in 
 a young wife, and certainly less suitable to the middle-aged and 
 stately matron. But the rule reaches somewhat beyond these 
 glaring instances, and applies equally to personal peculiarities and 
 special places ; to the conditions under which the dress will be 
 seen, and the character of the surroundings This, however, is 
 only laid down crudely here, its full illustration belonging to future 
 pages. 
 
 Where the predominant color is vivid in tone, subordinate colors may be 
 larger in quantity in proportion as they are tender, neutral, or broken in 
 character. This rule does not accord with the rules laid down in works 
 on color generally, and is not universal in its application, but it is in 
 accordance with the practice of the great colorists, and will be 
 found to accord with the practice of the most successful cultivators 
 of the art of dress. 
 
 The contrasting colors should be larger or smaller in proportion to their 
 intensity. This may appear only another way of expressing what 
 was laid down in the preceding rule. They are, in fact, corollaries 
 from the same principle ; but the former may apply either to ex- 
 tension by harmonious hues, or to contrast ; this applies to con- 
 trast only. The rule is given here because it is commonly said in 
 works on color that the contrasting colors should be of equal in- 
 tensity, and it is left to be implied that their masses may also be 
 equal. But this would be a fatal error in a picture, and absurd in 
 a dress. The contiguity of two contrasting hues of equal intensity, 
 and nearly or quite equal quantity, would be felt at once to be 
 crude and unpleasant even to an uncultivated eye. In small quan- 
 tities the cont'ast, by its sharpness and force, may serve to give 
 
20 HARMONY AND CONTRAST OF COLORS. 
 
 Strength and clearness to the rest, just as a point or small quantity I; 
 of stronger color may serve to correct the excess of a color or a tl 
 hue ; if, for instance, there is an excess of yellow, a small portion 
 of a deeper yellow will probably cure the evil ; or, if the particular 
 color be too much difiused, serve as a focus for it. 
 
 The foregoing rules are given less as positive dogmas than as 
 illustrations of the principles we are desirous to enforce, and as 
 hints and suggestions that every reader may turn to account for | 
 herself. We shall presently descend to particulars — these may be 
 regarded as broad preliminary notes. 
 
 In the previous pages we have often referred to the practice of 
 great painters, and hereafter may refer still more frequently to 
 their pictures. It is only from the great colorists that the prin- 
 ciples of color can be satisfactorily acquired. And color in con- 
 nection with dress may be well studied in their pictures, not less 
 than color in connection with painting. A finely colored picture is 
 very suggestive. 
 
 But here a word of caution is necessary. In a painting the colors 
 in a dress may be modified in a thousand ways. Many of the most 
 magnificently colored pictures of the Venetian school are of sacred 
 subjects, and the colors of the draperies are conformed to the dog- 
 mas and symbolisms of the Italian Church, Seen in actual life 
 they would appear harsh and inharmonious, but here, by a skilltul 
 manipulation of the forms, folds, hghts, shadows, and reflections, by 
 cunning introduction of other objects and accessories, of such 
 colors as would serve to strengthen or lower the different colors of 
 the draperies, and make them a necessary portion in the composi- 
 tion of the color of the entire picture, the dresses themselves seem 
 to be harmonious in color, whereas they are only a part of the gen- 
 eral harmony. In examining a picture with reference to color in 
 dress, it must also be borne in mind that not only is the person 
 represented in a fixed position, but that the accessories and back- 
 ground are also permanent, and have been placed where they are, 
 and their colors arranged with consummate skill, for the express 
 purpose of increasing or modifying the efifect of the draperies > 
 whereas in actual life all is shifting, and the accessories and back- 
 ground matters of chance. 
 
 But some, who would question whether pictures would supply 
 the best models, say that harmonious combinations of color may be 
 
ARUANGEMENT OF COLORS. 21 
 
 I' studied in birds, insects, and flowers. No doubt much may be 
 
 I learned from the exquisite beauty and marvellous diversity of their 
 
 '[ colors. Many painters have gone to them in the hope of discover- 
 
 : ing the secrets of color. Stothard had a collection of butterflies 
 
 I from which he is said to have sought hints for the arrangement of 
 
 , colors in his pictures. But if the experiment be tried with a view 
 
 I to hints for color in dress, the difference of the conditions should 
 
 I be kept in sight. Observe, for instance, the difference in the 
 
 j material, the texture, the varieties of translucency, the perfection 
 
 i of the natural colors, the imperfect quality of o.ur artificial pig- 
 
 ! ments. But, above all, do not overlook the fact that in the flower 
 
 or the insect the whole is embraced by the eye at once, and the 
 
 harmonious effect is in a great measure due to the simultaneous- 
 
 ness of the impression. In a dress but part is seen at a time, and 
 
 that part, perhaps, imperfectly. 
 
 AEEANGEMENT OF COLOES. 
 
 The present chapter will be devoted to illustrations of the rela- 
 tions of colors when place 1 in juxtaposition. 
 
 It has already been said that it is essential to harmony of effect 
 that the colors in combination should bear not only a due relation, 
 but also a proper proportion to one another. But it is impossible 
 to assign the relative quantities that will produce the most perfect 
 harmony. If such directions could be given they would be as nu- 
 merous as the combinations. But harmony of color will not ad- 
 mit of a quantative analysis. What are the proper proportions is 
 very much a matter of perception and feeling. We may lay down 
 such rules as are given in the preceding chapter, we might further 
 say with tolerable certainty that colors or tones of equal intensity 
 should never be brought together in equal quantities, and other 
 general rules might also be proposed, but they would be found to 
 resolve themselves into deductions from the principles with which 
 we have been dealing, and will, in substance, if not in words, occur 
 to all who give to the subject a moderate amount of attention. 
 
 Happily in dress equal quantities are hardly practicable. The 
 
22 ARRANGEMENT OF COLORS. 
 
 nearest approach to danger is from the contiguity of cloak, shawl, 
 sacque, or other upper garment. 
 
 The most convenient way of illustrating the relations of colors, 
 and indicating the bearings of the principles of harmony and con- 
 trast in the combination and arrangement of colors in dress, will 
 be to take some of the leading colors and their modifications, and 
 point out what other colors agree or disagree with them. As the 
 easiest mode of classifying the colors for oar purpose, we will take 
 the primaries first, putting under each its leading modification ; 
 then the secondaries, the neutrals, and so on. 
 
 Uncertainty and misapprehension frequently occur in speaking 
 of colors from the indefinite and often difierent ideas people attach 
 to the words red, blue, green, and the like. In large and expen- 
 sive works precision can, to a certain extent, be secured by giving 
 colored scales and diagrams. But even these are imperfe'6t and 
 often unsatisfactory. Another method, first proposed by Moses 
 Harris, in the last century, is that of referring the color to some 
 common flower, mineral, or other natural object. This plan, which 
 has also been adopted by Sir Gardner Wilkinson in his work "On 
 Color," a work to which we are indebted for some of the sugges- 
 tions in the annexed summary, we shall follow wherever it seems 
 necessary to distinguish a distinct color from one of its varieties. 
 
 In this summary it will be understood that the color which 
 stands at the head of the paragraph is the principal color of a 
 dress, those named afterwards being the subsidiary colors, either 
 employed in smaller quantities, or as trimmings, to relieve, bright- 
 en, heighten, or in any way modify it. Discretion and judgment 
 in the wearer must decide much of the quantity desirable to be 
 used. 
 
 Red {Field Poppy, Verbena Melindris). 
 
 Red is a color seldom used for dress, but it is the parent of nu- 
 merous varieties, and may serve as a subsidiary color, though 
 seldom as effective as scarlet in ribbons or trimmings. The com- 
 plementary of red, a pale green, looks well with it, in small quan- 
 tities, but a pale sea-green celadon, a pearl or silver-grey, looks 
 better. 
 
 Scarlet, in an opera-cloak or fancy dress, has a brilliant effect 
 trimmed with gold, and harmonizos well v.'ith white. In ribbons 
 or velvet trimmings it is a valuable addition to gray or drab, or to 
 
ARRANGEMENT OF COLORS. 23 
 
 any of the light neutral tints. Will bear black lace or swan's- 
 down. 
 
 Crimson {Cactus Speciocissimus) is often seen with blue in paint- 
 ings, but it requires white to harmonize. Crimson will also bear 
 blue and gold, or orange, but they must be combined with dis- 
 crimination ; it will bear orange alone, but is improved by the 
 softening of black or white lace. Crimson and purple are discord- 
 ant alone, but crimson will bear purple and pale green in very 
 small quantities. Crimson is dangerous to the complexion, unless 
 very clear, or glowing and shghtly olive, when white should be 
 placed between the complexion and the color. 
 
 Cla7~et has a little purple in its composition. Harmonizes with 
 orange and gold, but not with yellow. Very rich in effect trimmed 
 with black lace, of which it will bear a large quantity. 
 
 Magenta may be regarded as a variety of claret. It is improved 
 by contact with black, injured by green, destroys scarlet placed 
 upon it in small quantities. 
 
 Maroon has a tendency to brown. Harmonizes with gold or 
 orange. Will bear a very little green. Heightened in efiect by 
 white or black. Loses brilliancy in gas-light. Is apt to bring out 
 the green in the complexion, unless relieved by a decided green in 
 the hair-ribbon or neck-tie. A color that suits but few, and re- 
 quires skillful handling. 
 
 Finh is suitable only for very young ladies. Looks best alone? 
 or with pure white. Is effective with narrow lines of black, or 
 black lace. A good color for evening wear, as it lights up well in 
 artificial light ; bears silver trimming well. 
 
 Cerise harmonizes well with silver-gray, lilac, or a pale lavender \ 
 will bear, in addition, a few sprigs of gold, and then may allow a 
 point of scarlet or crimson. Blue with cerise is very harsh ; but 
 blue and gold, deftly arranged in small quantities, will harmonize 
 with it. 
 
 Blue {Lapis-lazuli, or Corn-flower^. 
 
 Harmonizes with its complemetary, orange. Discordant with 
 yellow. Intolerable with green — although in nature blue flowers 
 look beautiful nestled in green leaves. Blue and a warm, rich 
 brown, not too dark (the color of the horse-chestnut), harmonize 
 well, or a little white may be added. Blue requires white next the 
 complexion. Other harmonious combinations are : blue, crimson, 
 
24 ARRANGEMENT OF COLORS. 
 
 and gold, or orange. The same with pui-ple, very effective in pat- 
 terns, if hnes of black are used to prevent the too sharp contact of 
 the contrasting colors, and in occasional spots. In the same way 
 a rich brown, scarlet, or crimson and gold may be made to har- 
 monize, with blue as the principal color. 
 
 Light blue is only suitable for daylight. As an evening dress it 
 is ineffective, the artificial light changing it to an unpleasant light 
 green. Looks well alone, or with velvet trimmings of the same 
 color. White agrees with it, even in large quantity; black can be 
 used only very sparingly, and only in lace. Drab, or a diffused 
 gray, with a point of red, admissible upon light blue, but very try- 
 ing to most complexions. 
 
 Yellow {Furze-Uossom, Buttercups). 
 
 Pure yellow is not much used for dress, orange on the one side, 
 straw or amber on the other, being much richer, and more agree- 
 able to the eye. It harmonizes best with its complementary, pur- 
 ple. Black is also of great value as a trimming, and may be used 
 freely. 
 
 Amber, Straw, Frimrose, and Canary, are feebler in effect than orange. 
 These shades are rendered still weaker by contact v/-th any strong 
 color or tone. Of these, however, purple is the best. Black looks 
 well in lace only. Trimmings of a faint crimson or cerise liave a 
 pretty and cheerful effect, but require a litfe dash in the wearer. 
 White may be used as lace, but vv'ith care, and will call for the ad- 
 dition of small points of stronger color. 
 
 Orange {Common Garden Marigold, or the Orange Fruit). 
 
 Is very effective in the evening, when Fashion permits its adop- 
 tion. Orange satin with purple has a splendid appearance, but 
 suits only a tall, commanding figure. Black, especially in lace, is 
 an efficient contrast. White is less effective, but looks well by gas 
 or candle-light. Orange is the complementary of, and harmonizes 
 well with blue, but they would form a doubtful combination in dress ; 
 minute points of scarlet, black, or white, might be added, but foj- 
 dress orange is best alone, or with purple, black, or white. Suits 
 brunette complexions, and will bear a rich crimson in the hair, 
 especially if the dress is subdued in tone by a profusion of black 
 lace. 
 
 Green (Grass — inclining neither to blue nor yellow — Emerald). 
 
 Is very grateful to the eye, but a difficult color to manage in a 
 
ARRANGEJMEJSfT OF COLORS. 25 
 
 dress. All the varieties of green are affected, and a few improved, 
 by artificial light. Harmonizes, but not agreeably, with its com- 
 plementary, a pale red ; better with pale scarlet ; but for an even- 
 ing dress is most effective with gold, either bright or dull. In the 
 open air agrees well with white, and may be reheved with scarlet 
 or crimson, used very sparingly and judiciously. Is dulled in effect 
 by black. 
 
 Light green looks well with wliite. May be used with small 
 points of a rich brown, or trimmed with a darker shade of the same 
 color, but is an unmanageable color, and very trying to the com- 
 plexion. 
 
 Dark green. Titian has clothed the figures in some of Ms most 
 famous pictures in a very deep green, but he has taken care to 
 bring large quantities of white against the complexion, and gener- 
 ally has a bright crimson near, to balance the composition. It 
 looks well with the glowing Venetian complexion, but should be 
 used with care, as bat few complexions will bear the contact well. 
 PcRPLE {Nightshadc-hlossomy AmetJiyat, Plum). 
 
 The regal color has a magnificent effect with gold. Purple silk may 
 be trimmed with orange. A clear crimson, or, better, scarlet bright- 
 ens it, but requires management as to quantity ; this combination 
 is improved by gold, or a little orange, or amber. A very minute 
 quantity of green, as a tiny sprig, suits some shades. White and 
 black may be used freely. Purple is most effective in rich material, 
 as velvet, heavy silks, poplins, or merinoes, and loses effect in 
 tiiin goods. 
 
 Face requires gold or orange. Is brightened by scarlet. Not a 
 good color, and very trying to most complexions. 
 
 Liktc^ Lavender, Mauve, harmonize with cerise, used sparingly, 
 and with gold, but are better trimmed with the same color of a 
 shade slightly darker or lighter. White may be used freely, black 
 rather sparingly Lavender takes black for half-mourning ; mauve 
 takes white or black for slight mourning. 
 Gray. 
 
 The grays, like all the neutral colors, are very valuable for quiet 
 dresses, and adapt themselves well to different forms. They make 
 a dress of simple elegance with trimmings of the same color, black, 
 or white, yet serve admirably as a ground for any of the bright 
 colors. Crimson or scarlet is most effective upon a gray ground. 
 
26 ARRANGEMENT OF COLORS. 
 
 The grays require white noxt tlie complexion when trimmed with 
 their own color. They are very effective witli a very small point 
 of intense color. ' 
 
 Drab. 
 
 The drabs, fawn, mode, and mouse colors have much the same gener- | 
 al character as the grays, but are not so cold and severe in tone. I 
 Crimson, blue, and gieen in the neck-ribbon or head-dress relieve ! 
 any of these colors, and they will all bear bright-colored trimmings. ! 
 Walking-dresses are effective in any of these, but they are equally ! 
 suitable for indoor dresses, aud like grays, adapt themselves readily 
 to a quiet; elegant, or rich style. 
 
 Black, 
 
 When not worn for mourning will bear the bright colors for 
 trimming or ornament, and sets off gold ornaments effectively. 
 White reheves it very happily, and it is the best background in 
 velvet for diamonds. To some complexions it is always becoming, 
 but becomes gloomy by constant wear. Is very effective in lace 
 worn over bright-colored silks or white satin. 
 White. 
 
 White muslin is especially appropriate for the young and for 
 festive occasions. Is suggestive of pleasant memoj'ies and associ- 
 ations ; admits of the gayest and brightest trimmings, though 
 scarlet and blue are most effective. With white silks for evening 
 wear and occasions of ceremon, a heavier style of trimming is 
 necessary. Dull gold is very effective with rich white silk or satin. 
 Lace of either white or black looks well, and colored tulle is effec- 
 tive over a white silk or satin uuderdress, as is also colored silk 
 under white tulle, lace, or tarletan, for young i)eople. Faintly 
 tinted whites are effective with the color of the tint as trimming, 
 but look badly in contact with pure white. 
 
 We have thus run over the leading colors and indicated the man- 
 ner in which they may be treated in accordance with the laws of 
 color. Our cursory remarks make no pretence to be in any way 
 exhaustive. They are offered only as suggestions. Some of them, 
 we are fully aware, will be found out of the usual course Try 
 these cautiously — most of them will be found safe, as they are di- 
 rected by sound principle. All of them will be found useful as 
 hints for the foundation of a dress where skill and judgment will 
 dictate the details. 
 
COLOR IN RELATION TO COMrLEA'ION. 
 
 COLOa IN RELATION TO COMPLEXION, 
 HAIR, &c. 
 
 ij In the last chapter we noticed the leading colors and their treat- 
 ment in dress, but only incidentally alluded to their appropriate- 
 ness or otherwise to personal peculiarities. Yet it needs but little 
 observation to be satisfied that a color or arrangement of colors 
 graceful and becoming upon one lady, would be quite unsuited to 
 another, although each may be beautiful and attractive. A lady's 
 skill and taste in dress are, perhaps, shown in nothing so clearly as 
 in selecting and arranging colors to suit her individuality of char- 
 acter and appearance. Little guidance is possible in the former 
 respect, A lady of grave habits will instinctively avoid a glaring, 
 or even a light, fanciful style of dress. A gay girl will allow her 
 fancy more play, and shrink from the sombre hues and grave 
 fashions, while the retiring, quiet lady will adopt a still different 
 style. The young bride will appear to charming advantage in what 
 would be simply absurd upon the matron adyanced in years ; while 
 on the other hand, we do not wish to see the young maiden arrayed 
 in the colors and fabrics becoming to her grandmother. 
 
 With reference to appearance, however, something more may be 
 said. All who have touched upon the subject have given some 
 directions for the selection or arrangement of colors according to 
 the complexion, color of the hair and eyes, and general character 
 of the wearer's beauty . Many of the directions are of compara- 
 tively little value, deductions from a theory of colors requiring, 
 however correct in themselves, to be modified in individual cases 
 to an extent which the student of color in the abstract can scarcely 
 be expected to appreciate. 
 
 Tiiere is one source of error incident to all the results derived 
 from theoretical considerations when applied to dress, which it 
 may be useful to point out. 
 
 The rules for producing harmony and contrast are based upon 
 results observed in looking at selected colors placed side by side, 
 or allowing the eye to rest upon a particular color, till, on remov- 
 ing it, the complementary is seen. But in dress, and especially in 
 
28 COLOR IN RELATION TO COMPLEXION. 
 
 considering its color in connection with the hair and complexion, it 
 must be borne in mind that the influence of the one on the other is 
 not simultaneous. It is something very different from that pro- 
 duced by two strips of color side by side, or by colors seen at the 
 same moment — as in a flower, or the wing of a butterfly. The 
 action, whatever it is, is successive. The eye, resting on the dress, 
 is filled by its color, and then rests upon the face of the wearer, or 
 the contiary. It is an alternate, and not a simultaneous effect that 
 is produced. Thus, the eye after resting for a time upon a blue 
 dress, will be susceptible of the complementary, orange, and in- 
 sensible for the moment to blue. No lady, then, should wonder if 
 her blue eyes were less effective when she wore a bright blue dress^ 
 and a yellow dress would utterly destroy the effect of bright blond 
 hair, or hair of the reddish-gold would ill bear knots of orange rib- 
 bons. 
 
 These are trite illustrations, but will better serve the purpose of 
 enforcing the fact so important in connection with this section of 
 the subject, that the influence of the color of the dress upon the 
 complexion is due, not to the simultaneous, but to the successive 
 action upon the retina. 
 
 The eye, filled with the color of the dress, is rendered thus par- 
 ticularly susceptible to rays of an opposite color, and being moved, 
 whilst in that condition, to the face, colors or hues of the color last 
 looked upon are lost or depreciated, whilst those of the opposite 
 kind have an increased value. This is the secret of the heighten- 
 ing or lowering of all weak colors by the proximity of larger masses 
 and stronger colors. 
 
 But remember it is not best to trust entirely to any stated rules, 
 however sound and plausible they may be in theory. Ovid's ad- 
 vice in this matter will always be the safest : 
 
 " No complexion can bear every hue ; try them all; wear that 
 which best becomes you." 
 
 Complexions require the colors that enforce their peculiar ex- 
 cellence, and render their defects less conspicuous. 
 
 Blue suits the blond complexion, but is trying to blue or blue- 
 ish-gray eyes, and while it enriches golden hair, is liable to exag- 
 gerate any tinge of yellow in the complexion. How then is a lady 
 to reconcile these conditions "? White should separate the blue 
 from direct contact with the complexion, and then a bright golden 
 
COLOR IN RELATION TO COMPLETION. 29 
 
 brooch or chain will keep down any slightly yellow hue in the 
 throat, as the hair will subdue that in the face. The eyes, if they 
 have any life, flash, or sparkle, will take care of themselves. 
 
 In the same way, intensely pallid complexions, especially if 
 shaded still further by black hair, will not bear a dead white against 
 the face, and only the softest and finest lace in collar or ruffle is be- 
 coming. 
 
 The way to lower any tint that is excessive in the face is to bring 
 a strong color of the same class in close proximity to it ; but it 
 is not always a desirable remedy, and it is only necessary to resort 
 to it when the dress is not quite suited to the complexion. 
 
 Fink, as was said before, is only fitted for the young. It is a 
 charming color, and those to whom it is suited look very graceful 
 in it. The pale, sickly, and those of an olive hue, had better avoid 
 it. 
 
 White is similar in its conditions. It beautifies and sets off to 
 perfection a healthy young face, but deepens the gloom of a sad or 
 sickly one. 
 
 A florid complexion is rendered more florid by green. To take 
 an extreme illustration, if a lady were so unfortunate as to be the 
 possessor of a red nose, her keenest rival could not desire for her 
 any worse fate than that on some momentous occasion she .-hould 
 wear a green dress. On the other hand, an excess of red may be 
 counteracted by a judicious arrangement of crimson in the dress, 
 or near the face. But this must be used cautiously, or the effect 
 may be ludicrously opposite to that intended. Red will not al- 
 ways cure, but sometimes seems to deepen the same hue in the 
 face, a result, however, it will be found, if the case be analyzed, 
 of the presence of other elements beside the red in the complex- 
 ion. 
 
 ^focA; seldom agrees with a very florid complexion, and requires 
 white with a very pallid one. It will, however, suit a fair and 
 ruddy face better than a dark ruddy One. 
 
 Brunettes look most brilliant in an orange dress, or in orange 
 and purple, or orange and black. Red, a deep pink, or crimson^ 
 in the form of flowers, ribbons, or trimmings, may be valuable to 
 clear up other colors, or to act as a point or focus. Scarlet is more 
 dangerous, and should be well tested before it is used Blue is 
 always inimical to the brunette ; if used at all it should be of a deep, 
 
30 COLOR IX RELATION TO COMPLEA'IOX. 
 
 rich sliade, -well toned Avith black lace, and relieved by deep crim- f 
 son in tiie hair. Light blue is almost invariably nnbecoming. 
 When the face is decidedly dark, strong dark colors will have the 
 effect of rendering it lighter by contrast. A deep purple is some- 
 times of value — dependent, of course, on the special half-tones of 
 the face — but it will require light and bright subsidiary colors as 
 trimmings or ornaments. If the face be dark and pallid, dark and j' 
 strong colors should bo used cautiously and sparingly. 
 
 Titian constantly brings white into contact with the deep, glow- 
 ing, healthy complexions he delighted to paint, and then has, either 
 as the principal drapery, or close at hand, the richest crimson in 
 considerable quantity. But this would be too decided for the deli- 
 cacy of most American complexions, which would hardly sustain 
 such splendor. Our brunettes, and even those whose complexions 
 approach an olive, must be content with more sober harmonies. 
 But the principle is there. There are complexions which require 
 deep, rich tones and colors, with points of decided contrast. Ma- 
 roon is apt to bring out any latent green in the complexion, and 
 therefore should be used but seldom in direct contact with it. The 
 interposition of white is sometimes sufficient to counteract this 
 tendency. If insufficient, emeralds or other green stones may be 
 used. 
 
 A light, rosy complexion harmonizes admirably with a silver- 
 gray or pearl. The gray tints, however, will be lound to suit most 
 complexions, partly because they form so good a ground for any 
 strong color that may be required by the character of the com- 
 plexion or the color of the hair, but also because from their vari- 
 ety it is comparatively easy to find a suitable tone for almost every 
 style of personal appearance. But the suitable tone is important. 
 We have just said, for instance, that a silver or pearh^ gray har- 
 monizes with a clear, light, rosy complexion but such a gray would 
 inevitably reveal any lurking sallowness in the skin, and be found 
 to deepen any dusky hue, or increase any dullness in the face. 
 
 A pale complexion, if healthy and natural, is improved by black, 
 but, as remarked before, black does not suit fJie extremely pallid, 
 the sickly complexion, or the pallid and dark. If employed by 
 them, the accessories must be skillfully adjusted. 
 
 Ristori is a finished artist in dress as well as in acting, and those 
 who have seen her may object here that she never looks more mag- 
 
I COLOR IN RELATION TO COMPLEXION. 3i 
 
 i! 
 
 i nificent tlian wlien robed in b:ack, although usually pallid and 
 jj dark But it is to be remembered that she is seen upon the stage 
 ii at such a distance that the eye takes in her whole figure and face 
 ij at a glance. Dress and face are stamped on the retina simultane- 
 ■ ously ; and further, from the distance, and the strong and peculiar 
 light under which she is seen, however pale she may appear, dark- 
 i nes'5 and sallowness of hue are lost sight of entirely in the general 
 effect. It is the tender gradations and delicate half-tints seen close 
 at hand which are most affected for beauty or the reverse by neigh- 
 boring colors. 
 
 Enough has probably been said by way of hints on the manage- 
 ment of colors in connection with the complexion. The reader 
 will have no difficulty in pursuing the subject to any desirable 
 extent. One or two general remarks may, however, be added. In 
 considering the effect of contiguous colors on the complexion, it 
 will be necessary to observe whether it is produced by contrast, or 
 whether any part of the effect results from reflection. With the 
 bonnets formerly worn this was an essential consideration. Now 
 so little of the bonnet is seen from' the front view, that their influ- 
 ence upon the hair is more important than the effect upon the com- 
 plexion. Flowers and other ornaments play a much more impor- 
 tant part, but their influence is due to contiguity, to their contrast 
 with, or action upon, the prevailing hue, the half-tints and latent 
 shades of the complexion, and to reflection, in but few instances. 
 
 Colors favorable to the complexion are not always at the same 
 time favorable to the hair, but here flowers or other ornaments will 
 usually supply the remedy. 
 
 Ulach hair has its depth and brilliancy emphasized by a scarlet, 
 white, or orange flower ; but a dull red near it tends to render it 
 dull and brownish by imparting a portion of its own hue ; this is a 
 well-known effect of some colors, in certain connections, on others 
 in immediate contact with them. Glossy black hair has a superb 
 effect wlien decorated with diamond sprays, and bears well orna- 
 ments of lustreless gold, and pearls. 
 
 Light hroivn hair bears well the contact of blue, which brings out 
 effectively the golden tint. 
 
 DarJc hroivn hair will also bear light blue in quantity, or a deeper 
 blue in smaller proportion. If it is a little dulL lacking gloss and 
 liveliness, a pale yellowish-green will be found becoming. 
 
32 COLOR IN RELATION TO COMPLETION. 
 
 Pure golden hair is a rare tint. It will bear blue best, but is also 
 eJBTective with pearls and delicate white flowers. 
 
 Auburn hair, if too mucL. inclined to red, will be improved by 
 close contact with scarlet. The golden-red will be enhanced by a 
 blue flower, pale green leaves, or a band of black. Purple will also 
 serve to bring out the reddish-golden tints. 
 
 Flaxen hair is difficult to manage. Purple is becoming to some 
 tints ; blue will bring out the golden tints, but is dangerous if there 
 is a tendency to the tallow hue. 
 
 Before quitting this section, it should be observed that even iu 
 the choice of color for ornaments very much depends upon the 
 manner of arranging the hair. When the hair is flowing in loose 
 curls beside the face, there is such a constantly varying play of 
 light and answering shadow, the color of the hair itself is so modi- 
 fied by the light which falls upon it, that little more in the way of 
 color or ornament is required. The present fashions, however, for 
 dressing the hair, allow of more opportunity for the display of ar- 
 tistic taste and contrivance, and adapt themselves well to many 
 styles of beauty. 
 
 To the sunny, cheerful face of the youthful maiden there can 
 be no elaborate style of coiffure so becoming as the free, natural 
 flow of hair in curling or waving masses, or even in the broad 
 braids of a few years back, yet there is a certain dignity imparted 
 to some countenances by the present contrivances of the Parisian 
 hair-dressers. 
 
 The point for us to note, however, is that all the new styles of 
 dressing the hair admit, and in many cases require, artificial ad- 
 ditions, and that with one or the other of them, therefore, there can 
 be no want of opportunity to introduce color to any desired ex- 
 tent. 
 
 The color of the tiny bonnets now in vogue, as we have already 
 observed, has more influence upon the hair than upon the com- 
 plexion ; and the same may be said of the smart little hats which 
 very young ladies affect so much. But the fashions change so 
 rapidly in this respect, that it is not worth while to dwell upon 
 them here at any length. 
 
MATERIALS OF DRESS. 33 
 
 MATERIALS OF DRESS. 
 
 It must not be supposed from the heading of this chapter that 
 we are going to inflict upon the reader a long account of silks, 
 satins, velvets, and the thousand and one materials which have 
 been invented to furnish the infinite variety in ladies' dresses. We 
 refer to the subject chiefly to indicate the necessity that exists, in 
 applying the laws of color, for considering the substance, surface, 
 'and texture of which the dress is composed. 
 
 Materials which are rough in surfuce, or absorbent in texture, 
 are very differently affected by the rays of light from those which 
 are smooth and lustrous, and the colors they exhibit are different 
 in themselves, and produce a different effect upon the eye. A 
 piece of crimson satin, for example, would differ in color and in 
 effect from a piece of crimson silk, although of like intensity of 
 tone, and, in fact, dyed with it in the same vat ; each, again, would 
 differ still more from' a piece of velvet, merino, or tarletan, al- 
 though all were as similar as the art of the dyer could make them. 
 
 In some colors the difference of value according to the material 
 would be very marked and decisive. A yellow satin might be su- 
 perb, where the same yellow in cloth would be simply detestable. 
 And not only does the character of the color depend on the ab- 
 sorbent or reflective condition of the surface, but also very much 
 of the accidental effects produced by play of light and shade, con- 
 tact with other colors, and the like. 
 
 Thus, in a strong light, while the parts of a rich satin dress, 
 which catch the brightest light, are glittering and almost colorless, 
 the folds exhibit almost every possible difference of tone, from the 
 shadows being broken by the reciprocal reflections of the opposite 
 parts. The same thing will be noticed in a less degree with silks ; 
 differently with velvets, yet producing the most beautiful effects, 
 as any one may see who will condescend to study such details. In 
 merino or cashmere the effect is very different again, the broken 
 lights and reflections being ^Imost lost in the absorbent character 
 of the material. 
 
 Furthe**, texture may be considered ^vith reference to contrast 
 
34 MATERIALS OF DRESS. 
 
 as well as to color. Thus, almost intuitively, the milliner and 
 dressmaker prefer to trim the glossy satins and silks with an ab- 
 sorbent velvet ; the dull merino or cashmere with the richer velvet, 
 or glossy silk or satin. 
 
 Again, the rough crapes and laces are placed in contact with the 
 skin, and never with so much advantage as when the skin is smooth, 
 polished, and pearly ; never with so little as when the pearliness is 
 produced by powder. 
 
 The effect of the material, in respect to color, is further modi- 
 fied by the circumstance of its having a plain or a figured surface. 
 If the pattern be merely raised, it chiefly affects the quality of the 
 texture, its smoothness, or otherwise. If it be a colored design, it 
 necessarily influences the general harmony, and must be taken 
 into account in considering the trimmings, and other details of the 
 dress. Patterns, if well designed, may add greatly to the richness 
 and elegance of the dress, but, unfortunately, they are not often 
 well designed, and much as the superiority of the French designer 
 is vaimted, and in some matters very justly, it is undeniable that 
 many of the most outrageous patterns are of French designing. 
 The reader may remember the rapture with which Ruskin, in his 
 " Stones of Venice," speaks of the patterns on the dresses intro- 
 duced in Venetian pictures, and particularly in those by Tintoretto. 
 There can be little doubt that they were copies from actual silks 
 worn by Venetian ladies, but they must have been designed by 
 true artists, with a genuine feeling for what is required in drapery, 
 and the material was probably richer and more substantial than 
 that of the present day. Our designers, like the French, seem to 
 imagine that the Avhole pattern is to be exhibited distended, like a 
 piece of tambour work upon a frame, instead of being broken up 
 and half conceftled in the natural folds of the drapery. To a cer- 
 tain extent they were justified during the supremacy of crinoline, 
 but we are happily escaping from that thraldom, and now, per- 
 haps our textile artists will come to understand that patterns in a 
 dress are not pictures, and design them with regard chiefly to 
 their effect in producing a pleasing play of line in the' drapery, and 
 a harmonious arrangement of color 
 
 Materials and patterns require to be selected with reference to 
 the figure of the wearer. What would assume an air of distinction 
 upon a tall and stately person, would not be becoming to a brisk, 
 
JEWELRY. 35 
 
 mercurial little maiden, the living embodiment of perpetual motion, 
 nor to the figure of a short, stout matron. 
 
 So again, the dress that would be beautiful and graceful when 
 falling in long, free folds, accommodating themselves to the natural 
 motions of the form, would be utterly ruined by straining over 
 crinoline, or being cut into flounces, puflfs, or ruffling. 
 
 It should also be remembered, in adapting colors and m.aterials 
 to the figure that they have as much effect there as upon the com- 
 plexion or hair. The heavy, rich materials which suit a tall figure, 
 look awkward upon a small person, and while all dark colors im- 
 part an appearance of slender proportions, light ones will certainly 
 render conspicuous any tendency to corpulence. Full, light drap- 
 ery should be worn only by those of slender figure, while those 
 who are too short must be content with dark colors, and tightly- 
 fitting garments. 
 
 JEWELEY. 
 
 Jewels may be made to serve more purposes, even as orna- 
 ments, than would be supposed by those who have never given the 
 subject much attention. They possess not merely their own in- 
 trinsic value, or a value as advertising the wealth of the possessor, 
 but independent of these considerations, they have an artistic value 
 and use. 
 
 In the fourth chapter it was shown of what great service gold 
 might be made in harmonizing contrasting colors, and in adding 
 splendor to even the richest. In many other cases its value is of 
 no less importance in subduing colors which are harsh, crude, or 
 undesirably strong. 
 
 The watch-chain and bosom-pin may in such cases be turned to 
 excellent account, but judgment must be exercised in their appli- 
 cation. Dead, or lustreless gold, and bright, or burnished, should 
 be selected for the purpose not indifierently, but according to the 
 effect they are desired to produce. 
 
 In the selection of necklaces and bracelets, the texture and color 
 of the neck and arm should influence the choice not only of the 
 golden ones, but of the enamelled, and those encrusted Avith gems. 
 The same reriarks that apply to the effect of colors upon the com- 
 
36 JEWELRY. 
 
 plexion will be found valuable for reference in choosing necklace 
 and bracelets, the snowy white, round arm, or polished ivory 
 throat, bearing the contact of gems that would render an arm or 
 neck inclined to sallowness, or tinged too much with red, simi)ly 
 hideous. On the other hand, these latent tints of yellow, green, 
 or red, may be in a great measure subdued and concealed hy skill- 
 ful adjustment of the strong points of color in the ornaments upon 
 their surface. 
 
 Gems are a valuable addition to dress, as points of intense color 
 to serve as the focus or concentration of some diffused or scattered 
 color, or as a point of condensed and brilliant contrast. As a con- 
 trast, a brilliant gem resting upon a dark, rich color, black, or 
 pure white, is of singular value. 
 
 But it is not alone as points of intense tone, of sharp, brilliant 
 contrast that they are available. They serve also as suggestive 
 of that similitude in dissimilitude of which poets and poetic com- 
 mentators have often spoken. Of course we must not rate their 
 value too high. Steele writes : 
 
 " What jewel can the charming Cleora place in her ears that can 
 please the beholder so much as her eyes 1 The cluster of dia- 
 monds can add no beauty to the fair chest of ivory that supports 
 it." 
 
 And again he says : 
 
 " The pearl necklace can only be of use to attract the eye of the 
 beholder, and turn it from the imperfections of the features and 
 shape." 
 
 But it must be borne in mind that Steele was writing in the 
 character of a censor, and his object was to set boimds to a preva- 
 lent extravagance. A diamond cluster will enhance the brilliancy 
 of the whitest skin, and pearls are the most perfect adornment for 
 a lovely neck. Yet these are also dangerous additions to the sal- 
 low and over-florid complexions. 
 
 To be really effective, jewelry should be employed sparingly, 
 and with discrimination. Better far a little that is really valuable 
 and well-selected, than a profusion of cheap, ill-assorted orna- 
 ments, though it may be bad and in bad taste if it is ever so 
 costly. 
 
 What a lady requires is to have sufficient for choice, as what will 
 be effective and beautiful with one dress may entirely ruin the ap- 
 
OCCASION. 37 
 
 pearance of another of different style and color. Pure gold is 
 valuable with almost any dress, but the gems require more discre- 
 tion in their use. 
 
 The proper selection and use of jewelry is a prime test of good 
 or bad taste. Especially should ladies seek to possess artistic 
 jewelry, even if they find it difficult to obtain. The superiority 
 of beautiful designs and forms over mere lavish employment of ma- 
 terial is shown in the exquisite Greek, Etruscan, and Roman de- 
 signs, which can now be obtained, and which certainly ought to 
 entitely supersede the clumsier patterns so long in vogue. 
 
 Jewels of perfect forms set in the elaborate and exquisitely 
 beautiful designs of Cellini and Holbein would add grace to the 
 loveliest forms and fairest complexions. 
 
 Stones, however rich and rare in themselves, can be proved of 
 secondary importance where the designs are artistic and perfect. 
 Enamel with spots of gold, a few brilliants, emeralds, rubies, or 
 pearls, disposed with taste and intelligence, can be made to pro- 
 duce all the effect than can be desired, even in point of color, 
 whilst delicate workmanship and chasteness of design will far out- 
 balance a more valuable collection of stones in a ruder setting. 
 
 OCCAISION. 
 
 Having fully considered the subject of color in relation to dress 
 in the preceding chapters, we now come to another consideration 
 of equal importance in the eyes of those who are anxious to ac- 
 quire the art of dressing well. This is the style, texture, and gen- 
 eral effect of dress in relation to the occasion upon which it is to 
 be worn. 
 
 No lady requires to be told that it would be inappropriate to go 
 to church in her ball-dress, or to appear at the opera in her chintz 
 wrapper, but there are many nicer shades of discrimination which 
 will sometimes puzzle even those who consider the subject of para- 
 mount importance. 
 
 A toilet may be offensive to good taste by being out of place, or 
 out of season, as well as by being glaringly inharmonious in color, 
 or slovenly in detail. The idea that you may escape unnoticed, 
 
38 OCCASION. 
 
 that '-just for once" you may appear inconsistently dressed, is a 
 dangerous one, and apt to draw upon the wearer the credit for 
 eccentricity, or bad taste, which a true lady should carefully 
 avoid. 
 
 In suiting a dress to the occasion upon which it is to be worn, 
 there is more to be considered than the mere personal appearance 
 of the wearer. In itself the dress may be exquisitely tasteful, 
 graceful, and becoming to both face and figure, and yet, from its 
 want of adaptiveness to the occasion upon which it is worn, will 
 appear absurd and most unbecoming. 
 
 It is also, when accepting invitations, due to your host or host- 
 ess to dress in accordance with the entertainment to which you are 
 invited. An appropriate dress v/ill increase your popularity in so- 
 ciety, as well as an appropriate deportment. 
 
 There is more importance than is usually attached to one occa- 
 sion, and that is the dress appropriate for visits of condolence. It 
 is not, of course, expected that you will put on mourning for your 
 acquaintances and friends, or their relations, but in calling upon 
 the survivors in their affliction, it may affect them painfully, and 
 impress them with a want of sympathy on your part, if you appear 
 in very bright or gay colors. A quiet style of dress, although it 
 may in itself pass unnoticed, will not jar painfully upon hearts re- 
 cently bereaved, and it is as delicate a way of expressing sympathy 
 as is a quiet tone of conversation, or the avoidance of frivolous 
 subjects. 
 
 And in connection with this subject it must be remembered that 
 every part of the dress must be considered in reference to occasion. 
 The out-door costume must have bonnet or hat, cloak or shawl, 
 gloves, boots, and other details, adapted to the festival or party as 
 well as the dress. A dress for a sailing-party, if perfect in aU 
 other respects, would be ruined by an expensive lace shawl, or a 
 pair of delicate, thin-soled boots. So, in an in-door dress, heavy 
 walking-boots would be as inappropriate as a bonnet or parasol. 
 
 Fashion is such a capricious goddess that it would be impossible 
 to follow all her whims and vagaries in our little volume ; we do 
 not propose to give the fashionable costume for every occasion, 
 but to lay down such general rules as will enalble our readers to 
 appear appropriately dressed for all occasions, if they but add to 
 them the prevailing mode of trimming and styl6. 
 
MORNING DRESSES— BREAKFAST. gg 
 
 MOENING DEESSES— BEEAKFAST. 
 
 Morning dresses must be in a manner adapted to the circum- 
 stances of the wearer, as well as the hour of the day. A lady in 
 her own home at breakfast may wear a simpler costume than 
 would be suitable if visiting, or at the table of a large boarding- 
 house or*hotel. 
 
 If the wearer expects to pass a portion of the morning in do- 
 mestic duties, the care of an infant, the dressing of older children 
 for school, the preparation of delicacies for the table, or arranging 
 her own parlor or bed-room, the most suitable dress is a chintz or 
 gingham, made loosely enough to allow free play of the figure. A 
 linen collar and cuffs form a suitable finish, and the hair should be 
 neatly arranged without ornament, unless the loss of hair compels 
 the use of a plain cap. The dress for receiving morning calls will 
 be given in another chapter. 
 
 It is well, over the simple dress described, to wear a large ging- 
 ham apron while engaged in domestic pursuits, as it will protect 
 the dress, and can be more easily washed. 
 
 For breakfast in visiting, or at a public table, the loose dress of 
 home would be out of place. A wrapper is suitable only for an 
 invalid, or the dressing-room, and the breakfast dress should fit 
 the waist closely, even if allowed to remain open in the skirt over 
 a dressy petticoat. French cambric, white barred muslin, pique, 
 or Marseilles, and even lawn, are all perfectly suitable materials 
 for summer breakfast dresses, and should be trimmed tastefully, as 
 the prevailing fashion dictates. In winter any woolen goods made 
 simply and trimmed quietly will make an appropriate breakfast 
 dress. 
 
 It is permitted to wear a gayer style of cashmere and delaine 
 in a breakfast dress than in the material for occasions later in the 
 day, but these will be found more becoming if trimmed with folds 
 of silk of a solid color, especially broad folds down the front. 
 
 Breakfast caps must be light, but not very dressy, and be care- 
 ful that the hair is neatly arranged under them. No cap, how- 
 ever graceful, will compensate for slovenly, rough locks, guiltless 
 of comb and brush, and scarcely half hidden beneath it. 
 
40 MORNING DRESSES— MARKETING. 
 
 Linen is the most suitable material for the collar and cuffs worn 
 at breakfast, though narrow ruffles of lace may be substituted. 
 The more expensive laces are as much out of place as a head-dress 
 of artificial flowers would be. 
 
 Let the jewelry worn at breakfast be of the simplest description, 
 and only such as is absolutely necessary to fasten the collar, cuffs, 
 or belt. Bracelets, necklaces, and other articles worn for orna- 
 ment alone, are entirely out of place, and so are expensive gems, 
 or elaborate designs. 
 
 Ribbons, unless used for actual trimming, and velvets, are also 
 in bad taste. There is no occasion when a severe simplicity of 
 style is more becoming than at the breakfast table. 
 
 The same costume in which you would appear at the table of a 
 friend to whom you were paying a visit, is also suitable for the 
 head of your own table when you are entertaining visitors. 
 
 Slippers are always permissible in the breakfast dress, though 
 those of embroidered cloth or canvas are in bad taste outside of 
 the dressing-room. Kid, with a rosette or bow of ribbon, is the 
 most dressy slipper allowable for appearance at table. 
 
 MOENING DEESSES— MAEKETING. 
 
 It being the custom in many of our American cities for the lady 
 of the house to personally attend to the purchase of the provisions 
 for daily use, it may not be amiss here to indicate the dress most 
 appropriate for this errand. 
 
 Even in the winter it is best to wear a dress that will wash, pro- 
 viding against the cold by woolen under-garments, or a thick 
 sacque worn under the cloak or shawl. The unavoidable contact 
 with stalls, baskets, and benches, will soon make a marketing 
 dress too much soiled for wear, and it will be found the best econ- 
 omy to wear plain dark chintz, gingham, or any other wash mate- 
 rial. In summer a large cape of linen, or material to match the 
 dress, or a sacque of wash material, is most serviceable, and in 
 winter the wrap should be of stout plain goods. 
 
 A sacque will always be found the most convenient w^ap for 
 marketing, as the pressure against baskets in the crowd of people 
 
MORNING DRESSES— MARKETING. 41 
 
 cannot be avoided, making the closely-fitting garment much more 
 agreeable than a shawl whose fringe, or a cloak whose folds are 
 constantly catching any articles in contact with them. 
 
 Avoid in a marketing dress all floating ends of ribbon, trim- 
 ming, or lace. Trim the bonnet or hat with a compact trimming, 
 and wear no long streamers of ribbon from any part of the dress. 
 
 Never wear jewelry. It is vulgar in the extreme. Even the 
 watch is better left at home, as in the crowd there is great danger 
 of its being snatched from the wearer. 
 
 Gay colors, rich materials, conspicuous patterns, and jewelry of 
 any kind, seen upon a lady in market will stamp her at once as 
 vulgarly and inappropriately dressed, while the plainest costume 
 may be rendered tasteful by its neatness, compactness, and adap- 
 tiveness. 
 
 In the dress worn for marketing it will be found useful to have 
 a false pockethole, and the pocket in the petticoat, as pickpockets 
 are proverbially fond of the crowds usually collected in market- 
 houses or provision stores. 
 
 Strong, thick-soled boots should be worn, even in the smnmer 
 time, as there is always the dampness arising from frequently 
 washing the floors of market-houses to be encountered. Gloves 
 of thread or cloth are the most suitable. 
 
 In stormy weather a waterproof cloak, with a large hood drawn 
 over the head, will be fbund much more convenient than an um- 
 brella, which is never more awkward to manage than in the 
 market. 
 
 Long trailing skirts are another annoyance, both to the wearer 
 and those around her, and will certainly be ruined in a very short 
 time. White skirts, too, are out or place, a short Balmoral being 
 more serviceable and appropriate. Light colors are also best 
 avoided, as dark ones, even if requiring washing immediately af- 
 ter, will better conceal the soil and stain they may incur in the 
 market. 
 
 Another consideration of importance in the selection of a mar- 
 keting dress is its durability. There is no occasion when the 
 dress is more exposed to sudden jerking, violent strains, and rude 
 crushing, and a thin, flimsy material will soon be uttei'ly useless. 
 The best fabrics are Scotch ginghams, good chintz, or, if woolen is 
 preferred, a strong linsey. 
 
42 MORNING DRESSES—SHOPPING. 
 
 It is pool* economy for any lady to attempt to carry home a 
 heavily-filled basket. If the servants cannot be spared to accom- 
 pany her to market, a few pennies laid out in hiring a boy will be 
 more than balanced by the saving to the dress, which will be not 
 only soiled, but strained, by carrying a heavy load upon the arm. 
 
 MORNING DRESSES— SHOPPING. 
 
 Tx dressing for a shopping expedition the lady skilled in dress- 
 ing well will be observed to be studiously neat, quiet, almost what 
 might be called business-like, in her attire. She will avoid any- 
 thing decided in her appearance, or in any way dressy, while she 
 will endeavor to have all compact, quiet, and ladylike. 
 
 The most useful dresses for shopping are composed of materials 
 that will bear the crush of crowded stores without injury, and 
 fringes, laces, streamers of any kind, arc best avoided. Flounces 
 are apt to suifer severely in a shopping tour, and long, trailing 
 skirts will be apt to carry home a long rent, or the stains from the 
 floors or articles always more or less in the way in large stores. 
 
 Jewelry is entirely out of place, and the danger of loss is very 
 great. If the watch is worn it is best to have the chain as much 
 concealed as possible, and occasionally fo assure by touching it 
 that it is safe. Bracelets, or showy ornaments of any kind, are 
 in excessively bad taste, and any conspicuous article of attire is 
 best avoided. 
 
 In shopping dresses the pocket should be deep and strong, but 
 it is better for small packages to carry a leather satchel in the 
 hand. A sacque, or tight-fitting coat, will be found much more 
 serviceable than a shawl or cloak, either of which will be apt to 
 catch and drag small articles from a counter. 
 
 Kid gloves, if worn in shopping, had best be removed from the 
 right hand when fabrics are handled and examined, as the contact 
 may soil, while the movement will ceitainly strain them badly. 
 Lisle thread gloves in summer, and cloth ones in winter, will be 
 found much more serviceable than kid. 
 
 As shopping is usually undertaken in the morning, the simpler 
 the dress the more suitable it will appear. Rich silks, velvets, or 
 
MORNING DRESSES— PROMENADE. 43 
 
 any thin goods, will suffer more from one morning's shopping than 
 from any other ordinary wear, while they are at the same time in 
 bad taste. 
 
 Alpaca, pophn, and linen, are all serviceable for shopping, or 
 any of the more inexpensive fabrics used for walking-dresses may 
 be worn. Let the color be neutral and subdued, and the style of 
 making quiet, avoiding over trimming, ruffling, or flounces. Black 
 is not a very good dress, as it shows so soon any contact with the 
 dust unavoidably encountered. Linen collar and cuffs are most 
 suitable, and strong walking-boots will be found the best. 
 
 The bonnet or hat should be of quiet color and inexpensive 
 material, avoiding feathers, gay flowers, or long streamers. In 
 stormy weather the waterproof suit, with hood drawn over the 
 head, will be more convenient than an umbrella, which is very 
 much in the way, and apt to be lost by carelessness or dishonesty. 
 
 If a large sum of money is carried, it is best to have two pocket- 
 books, one to carry in the hand for change, the other carried in 
 the bosom, or in a pocket in the skirt under the dress (see page 
 41). A large pocket-book for change will be found convenient if 
 you wish to procure cards from any of the dealers you may visit. 
 
 MOENINa DEESSES— PEOICENADE. 
 
 "When the morning walk assumes the character of the promenade, 
 where it is for pleasure rather than in the performance of a part 
 of the duties of the day, more of richness and stylishness is not 
 only allowable, but is to be desired. 
 
 The present fashions — 1870 — admit a brilliancy of coloring in 
 the dress, and a costliness in the material, that a few years ago 
 would have been considered glaring and in bad taste. Of course 
 much must depend upon the age and circumstances, but color is 
 so pleasing to many, that the gay panorama of the streets in our 
 leading cities will doubtless be attractive to many, besides allow- 
 ing scope for the display of wealth, and discrimination In the as- 
 sortment of color. 
 
 Certainly ladies would confer a favor upon their fellow-citizens 
 by venturing, as far as good taste will allow, in selecting cheerful 
 
44 MORNING DRESSES— PROMENADE. 
 
 and becoming walking-dresses. But they must be suoh as are 
 pleasing in themselves, and harmoniously combined. Crude and 
 discordant combinations or colors, that are harsh and glaring sep- 
 arately, are worse than the dullest hues, and suggestive of vulgar 
 taste in the wearer. But rich and strong colors, if agreeable in 
 themselves, and arranged with skill, may be worn without suspi- 
 cion of ostentation, singularity, or a desire to attract attention, and, 
 indeed, with the fullest recognition of modesty and taste. 
 
 In i)lanning the arrangement of colors for a walking-dress, it 
 must be kept in mind that the whole dress is seen, and seen at 
 once — a contingency that seldom happens indoors. Here, there- 
 fore, is full scope for the application of the laws of harmony of 
 color. Not only the dress itself, but cloak, shawl, or sacque, if the 
 whole be not in uniform suit, bonnet or bat, gloves, parasol, all 
 that is worn and all that is carried will assist or impair the general 
 effect, and none of them can be safely overlooked or neglected* 
 The appearance of many a lady's dress is ruined, and she "herself 
 judged guilty of bad taste, by a pair of ill-chosen gloves, or a 
 flower or feather incongruous with the rest of her apparel. 
 
 In the selection of the different articles of attire which form the 
 walking-dress, you must bear in mind what was said in our early 
 chapters respecting quantity and proportion. There must be no 
 contest as to equality in the. colors ; no approach even to parity 
 between the masses of color in the skirt of the robe and the cloak 
 or sacque, if the dress is not in suit, and the difference should be 
 greater in proportion to the distinction between the colors. One 
 must unmistakably predominate. 
 
 This end, however, may be easily attained. Remember if there 
 are two leading colors, both must not be primary, and if the ex- 
 tent of each leading color be at all nearly ec^ual, both should not 
 be decided colors, nor both of equal depth of tone. 
 
 For example, whether the colors contrast or are complementary, 
 they must be opposed in intensity as well as kind. One should be 
 decidedly darker or less vivid than the other. A vivid color, when 
 in quantity, as in the skirt of the dress, seems to require the jjres- 
 ence of one comparatively neutral, as in the overskirt, sacque, 
 shawl, or cloak, in order that the contrast may be satisfactory to 
 the eye. One less positive, or a comparatively colorless mass, will 
 take a smaller opposing quantity of a more decided tone. 
 
MORNING DRESSES— PROMENADE. 45 
 
 In these instances the bonnet or hat will be found very valuable 
 in reconciling what is discordant, and supplying what is needed to 
 complete the harmony. It will also serve to repeat, and, as a 
 painter would say, to carry off the principal color. This principle 
 of the repetition or distribution of the leading color is a well-known 
 law in art. No large mass of color can safely stand alone. It 
 should recur in smaller quantities in other parts of the dress, as it 
 'is made to recur in smaller quantities in other parts of a picture ; 
 not exactly of the same tone, nor even necessarily of the same 
 kind, but of greater or less intensity, or as a modified tint, accord- 
 ing to the quality and character of the principal color. But the 
 repetitions must be judiciously managed, as to position and quan- 
 tity, or the principal color will be frittered away. 
 
 The bonnet or hat must be adapted to the dress, if the dress as 
 a whole is intended to look well. Should fashion dictate that the 
 fronts of bonnets be again displayed, the way in which to adjust 
 them will need care and consideration, so as to suit the shape of 
 the face, and the chapter on complexion (see page 27) will be 
 found useful in selecting becoming linings and trimmings next the 
 face. Even now the ribbons which form the bow under the chin, 
 or the falls of ribbon or lace on each side of the face, should be 
 carefully selected to suit the complexion, and tested in strong day- 
 light before being worn. 
 
 The coquettish little hats now in vogue can be made most valu- 
 able by their form and trimming towards setting off a brilliant 
 complexion, brightening a dull one, counteracting the sallow, and 
 subduing the over-florid tints. 
 
 The feathers, flowers, and ribbons are more serviceable in dis- 
 playing the beauties of the hair by harmony or contrast, and have 
 but little effect upon the complexion. 
 
 CoUars and cuffs in the styhsh walking-dress must be of fine 
 lace, and a handsome brooch, watch-chain, earrings, sleeve-but- 
 tons, and bracelets (of plain gold), are admissible. 
 
 Gloves must be of kid, and the color carefully selected to har- 
 monize with or be in favorable contrast to the leading color in the 
 dress. It is now in vogue to wear boots of colored kid to match 
 the dress, but fashion will hardly countenance this freak for a long 
 time. Colored boots make the smallest foot appear larger, and 
 are never so stylish in appearance as black, either of kid, cloth, or 
 
46 MORNING DRESSES— PROMENADE 
 
 leather. If very light, the slightest stain from the streets will mar, 
 not only their own beauty, but that of the entire dress. 
 
 Hich silks, velvets, and all the more expensive fabrics, are now 
 Avorn in walking-dresses, and of every color. The vivid colors, 
 however, must be deep in tone to appear well, although the neutral 
 tints may be worn light. White is only in good taste in heavy 
 material, such as marseilles, alpaca, and in silk can only be worn 
 in trimmings. 
 
 However rich and stylish, the dress for promenade should never 
 be conspicuously gay. A bright color is in much better taste as a 
 trimming or decoration in very small quantity, than in the leading 
 color, and the general effect is much better if subdued than if too 
 strongly pronounced in tone, either from color or make. Dash in 
 dress is unbecoming in the street. 
 
 winter costumes furs will necessarily take a prominent place, 
 and their color should be considered carefully. It is only in the 
 richest and most elegant walking-dress that ermine can be worn, 
 and it is really more adapted to evening than street Avear. When, 
 however, it is worn for the promenade, only velvet or the richest 
 silk Avill bear the contact with its snowy surface. 
 
 On the other hand, squirrel-skin can be worn Avith only the most 
 subdued dress, of plainest make and material, or in mourning. 
 
 Sables, mink, and the many varieties of brown-tinted furs, may 
 be safely worn with almost CA^ery color, and add richness and beau- 
 ty to any fabric with Avhich they come in contact. If lined Avith 
 silk, it Avill generally be found that a perfect match in color has a 
 better effect than a gay-colored linings, and the trimming will not 
 then jar by glaring contrast Avith the prcA'ailing tone of the dress. 
 
 For the country, promenade dresses may be in appearance, as 
 well as in reality, more adapted for service than for display. 
 Colors, fabrics, and fashions, that Avould be tasteful and elegant on 
 the streets of a large city, Avould appear ridiculous in shaded lanes, 
 the Avoods, or even the streets of a little village. Here more in- 
 expensive fabric is in good taste, but a livelier coloring is admissible, 
 AAhile stouter boots, broader-brimmed hats, or Avarmer hoods, will 
 be found useful and in good taste. 
 
 Over dress in the street is vulgar, but the utmost elegance and 
 richness may be permitted if the effect is so subdued as to avoM 
 any conspicuous display, or any glaring effect. 
 
MORNING DRESSES— VISITING. 47 
 
 MOENING DEESSES— VISITING. 
 
 For morning calls the short walking-dresses now in vogue may 
 be worn if of handsome material and stylish in make, but they are 
 not strictly en regie. A rich silk, in winter a velvet, in summer a 
 lace cloak, light gloves, furs, if in winter, and a boot with hand- 
 some finish, will make the most appropriate costume. If the short 
 dress is worn, it should be of silk, and the remainder of the dress 
 of handsome style and finish. 
 
 Calls of ceremony admit of a more dressy style of costume than 
 is needed between friends of long standing, and it is best to take a 
 carriage when paying them, as the rich dress appropriate to them 
 is scarcely appropriate for the morning promenade. 
 
 Even in winter light gloves should be worn with the dress for 
 morning visits, and the handkerchief of finest material carried to 
 protect the delicate glove from contact with the card-case. A 
 dressy parasol in summer is a handsome addition to the costume, 
 but anything heavy, or the sun-umbrella, is out of place. 
 
 Collars and cuffs must be of finest lace, and the jewelry may be 
 handsome, though glittering stones are not suitable for any dress 
 to be worn by daylight. Broad bands of dead or burnished gold 
 are the handsomest bracelets for street wear, and the watch-chain 
 and pin should also be of gold. Cameos, if very choice, are hand- 
 some if the dress requires subdued coloring, or enamelled gold 
 may be worn for a livelier efi^ect. Upon a dress of neutral tint, 
 with bonnet to match, corals are valuable as points of intense 
 coloring. 
 
 Hats must never be worn with the visiting dress ; they are never 
 suitable for-^to^ full dress walking costume. Let the bonnet be of 
 rich materia^)r, in summer, of dressy finish, and feathers, flowers, 
 and finest lace, are most appropriate. The coloring must be adapt- 
 ed to the full glare of out-door light, and likewise to the more 
 subdued light of the parlor or boudoir of your lady friends. 
 
 It is difficult to select a dress for perfect harmony in the costume 
 for morning visits, and it must be chosen to harmonize perfectly in 
 itself, independent of accessories. The neutral, subdued tints, 
 
48 MORNING DRESSES— VISITING. 
 
 with black in quantity, and only small masses of intense coloring, 
 will be found the safest, as the dress which is superb against the 
 crimson velvet of Mrs. Brown's drawing-room furniture, would ap- 
 pear to terrible disadvantage contrasted with the light blue of Mrs. 
 Smith's boudoir, or the green and gold of Mrs. Robinson's sitting- 
 room. 
 
 Bright colored gloves and boots are in vogue, but require care- 
 ful management, as the gloves especially are very valuable in har- 
 monizing the entire dress, or may utterly ruin the effect of one 
 otherwise charming. 
 
 The young lady, or young matron, may indulge in lighter fab- 
 rics and more cheerful colors than are suitable to those more 
 advanced in life, but the latter have the advantage of appearing 
 better in the heavy, costly fabrics that are so handsome on the 
 street, but scarcely suitable for the very young. 
 
 If a lace mantle is worn, it must be black, unless the carriage is 
 used, a white lace mantle being suitable only for bridal calls, even- 
 ing wear, or the full dress drive. A lady on foot in a white lace 
 mantle, looks as appropriately dressed as she would in a calico sun- 
 bonnet and velvet cloak. The white sacques now in fashion are 
 more suitable for calling if they are of rich material, but they are 
 so unbecoming to the figure that they should be avoided by any 
 with a tendency to corpulence, or of short stature. Black velvet, 
 richly trimmed, is the most elegant Avrap for winter wear, and has 
 the advantage of harmonizing equally well with deep, intense 
 coloring, or the neutral tints. A dress of rich black silk, under such 
 a cloak, will admit of lively coloring in the bonnet, or a necktie of 
 vivid color suited to the complexion. If the dress is neutral-tint- 
 ed, the bonnet will harmonize more perfectly if of the same hue, 
 and trimmed with a vivid color. 
 
 The strictest attention must be paid to neatness of finish in the 
 most elegant street costume. No costliness of material will com- 
 pensate for a pair of ill-fitting gloves, a crushed bo^lt-trimming, 
 or a soiled or tumbled collar, while exquisite neatness will make 
 ladylike the simplest materials. 
 
MOBNIJSfQ DRESSES— TO RECEIVE GALLS. 49 
 
 MOENING DEESSES— TO EECEIYE CALLS. 
 
 The dress for receiving morning calls will allow a lady full scope 
 for the display of her skill in the arrangement of color to be seen 
 by daylight. 
 
 Ladies whose visiting list is large will find it much more con- 
 venient to set aside one day in the week for the reception of morn- 
 ing visits, and be in their drawing-room fully ready for calls at the 
 hour appointed. 
 
 Not only may the hostess exercise her skill and taste upon her 
 own dress, but she has full control of the accessories. We may 
 pity, bTit can scarcely forgive, the hostess who is inhuman enough 
 to subject her callers to the test of light green wall paper, and 
 there are other solecisms quite as bad. 
 
 The morning dress, as a rule, requires quiet colors, but if vivid 
 or intense tones are used, they must be controlled by the laws 
 already given for harmony and contrast. Richness of material is 
 d,dmissible, and where the list of callers is very large, is requisite. 
 Also, upon special occasions, a handsome dress is necessary, but 
 for transient callers, the dresses appropriate for breakfast (see page 
 39) will be perfectly suitable. For New Year's calls, the richest 
 dress is the law, and if the parlors are closed, and artificial light 
 used, full evening dress may be worn with perfect propriety. 
 
 As a rule, quiet colors are preferable for any morning dress, but 
 Fashion plays such strange and unexpected freaks, that it is with- 
 in the bounds of possibility that she may even decree the sub- 
 version of established rules in this particular. But, speaking 
 subject to her correction, it may be said that good taste requires 
 that in the in-door morning dress there should be but Httle positive 
 color ; that the tone be quiet, the whole style simple, graceful, and 
 dependent for effect upon a finished and exquisite neatness in de- 
 tail. 
 
 Here, as elsewhere, there must be, of course, the difierence ex- 
 acted by station in society. The busy little housewife, whose in- 
 come is small, and who has every hour usefully employed, would 
 appear ridiculous receiving her friends in the superb silk that may 
 
50 MORNING DRESSES— TO RECEIVE CALLS. 
 
 bo worn with perfect propriety by her sister in the fashionable 
 circles, Avitli unlimited command of money, and no master but the 
 dictates of custom to obey. 
 
 The most suitable materials, however, are those inexpensive 
 goods which range between the chintz and silks. Linen collar 
 and cuffs may be worn if the whole dress is of studied simplicity, 
 but with finer material and more stylish make, lace is a more be- 
 coming finish. Elaborate trimming is out of place, and so, also, is 
 very conspicuous jewelry. 
 
 Pique, marseilles, cambric, lawn, and muslin, are all appropriate 
 materials for summer wear, and in winter alpaca, poplin, delaine, 
 merino, or cashmere, are appropriate. Trimmed neatly, with 
 handsome collar, cuffs, and subdued jewelry, a lady will be well 
 dressed for morning calls in any of these materials. 
 
 A lady should always avoid wearing what have been elaborate 
 afternoon or evening dresses, partly worn, in the reception of 
 morning calls. Shabby finery is always detestable, and never 
 more so than in the morning. The simplest dress, fresh and ap- 
 propriate, will appear much more ladylike than half-worn dresses 
 of rich material. 
 
 Slippers are admissible, of kid, trimmed, and form a verjr 
 coquettish addition if trimmed to match the dress. A simple 
 headdress may be worn, but no flowers, nor anything glaring or 
 elaborate. 
 
 Many ladies adopt the dressy wrapper as a dress for the re- 
 ception of morning calls, wearing it often open over an elaborately 
 tucked or embroidered petticoat, with embroidered slippers and 
 breakfast cap. If such a dress is worn, it must be very handsome, 
 or it will appear out of place. Strictly speaking, as we have said 
 before, this dress is inappropriate excepting for the dressing-room, 
 or for an invalid receiving callers in her own room. It may then 
 be worn with perfect propriety. 
 
 Breakfast shawls are not appropriate. They may be thrown 
 round a breakfast dress, and serve sometimes for a finish, but as a 
 rule they are in bad taste, and too often used to cover deficiencies, 
 to appear well in a drawing-room, unless ill health requires their 
 use. Even then a warmer dress will be much more becoming. 
 
 If a piece of fancy work is carried in the hand, be careful that 
 its bright colors do not utterly ruin the cfFect of your dress. We 
 
OUT-DOOR DRESSES— DRIVING. 51 
 
 have seen an exquisite dress entirely marred in effect by contrast 
 witli a vivid scarlet pincushion in the hands of the wearer. 
 
 OUT-DOOR DEESSES— DEIYING. 
 
 We have already given the promenade dress under our list of 
 costumes to be worn in the morning, and now come to another 
 scarcely less important consideration, the morning or afternoon 
 drive. 
 
 The dress must be governed by the strictest rules of adaptive- 
 ness, and we can give only general broad directions. 
 
 For driving in a handsome private carriage through the streets 
 of a large city, or in the fashionable Park, the most elaborate out- 
 door costume is expected. Richest silk, velvet, and lace, are all 
 appropriate, and elaborate style and trimming are allowable. In 
 summer, light, thin goods, shawls of white or black lace, dainty 
 lace bonnets, gloves of light-colored kid, light, dressy boots, collars 
 and cuffs of fine lace, and jewelry that is rich and tasteful, are all 
 strictly appropriate for the full dress drive, while in cooler weath- 
 er, the white velvet sacque, black velvet clcfek, or rich wrap of any 
 material may be worn. 
 
 A carriage blanket of fur, or sombre color, will be found more 
 generally becoming in setting off the handsome costxnne suitable 
 for a full dress drive, than the gaudy Afghans now in vogue, v^'hich 
 too often destroy, by inharmonious contrast, the effect of the most 
 tasteful costumes. 
 
 Furs are a handsome winter addition to a handsome winter 
 driving-dress, and white ones may be worn with perfect propriety 
 if the remainder of the dress is elegant and costly. In summer a 
 dressy little parasol for the open barouche is a pretty addition to 
 the dress. 
 
 In the country, however, the driving-dress should be of entirely 
 different style, as the roads are always either dusty or muddy, 
 and the style of carriage usually different from that used in the 
 city. 
 
 The most appropriate dress for a country drive in the summer 
 time is linen, or some other wash goods, from wliich the stains of 
 
62 OUT-DOOR DRESSES— RIDIXG. 
 
 mud or dust may be afterwards removed ; a straw hat, simply 
 trimmed, and thread gloves ; over the dress a large cape or duster 
 of linen should be worn, and even in the winter this addition will 
 be found a most valuable protection against the mud or dust of 
 the road. In winter, a simple dress of woolen material, and dark 
 or squirrel-skin furs, with a felt hat, forms a genteel driving-dress. 
 If a lady drives herself, the most suitable gloves are of wash- 
 leather or chamois-skin, beaver-cloth or broad-cloth. Kid or 
 thread are too delicate to look well after contact with the reins. 
 
 Many prefer the short walking-dress for driving, and it is cer- 
 tainly more convenient if the carriage is small or crowded, and less 
 liable to come in contact Avith the wheels. A very pretty suit is 
 of Scotch gingham, sacque and dress alike, trimmed with broad 
 white marseilles braid, and marseilles buttons ; a straw hat with 
 ruche of ribbon round the crown, and thread gloves. Linen, made 
 into the short walking-suit, is also a becoming driving-dress for 
 the country ; nankeen, marseilles, pique, indeed any of the sum- 
 mer materials of rather heavy thread are all perfectly appropriate, 
 for either young or elderly persons. Nothing of very delicate 
 color or fabric is suitable for the country drive. 
 
 OUT-DOOE DEESSES— RIDING. 
 
 There is no occasion upon which a handsome, well- formed 
 woman may appear to greater advantage than when dressed in a 
 becoming and appropriate riding-dress. Not only the colors and 
 materials, but the make, finish, and trimming, all allow and call 
 for the exercise of good taste, perfect fitness, and exquisite adap- 
 tiveness. Whether for the ride in the fashionable park, where she 
 may be the object of severe criticism or admiration, or for the quiet 
 country road, surrounded only by Nature's beauties, a lady on 
 horseback depends very materially upon her dress for effect. The 
 most graceful and finished rider will appear awkward and to dis- 
 advaijtage if her habit fits clumsily, or makes conspicuous wrin- 
 kles, and no jewelry in her whip-handle will cover up a pair of 
 dirty or torn gloves, or even compensate for a want of harmony in 
 color. 
 
OUT-DOOR DRESSES— RIDING. 53 
 
 The first requisite for a fair equestrienne is that the habit fit the 
 figure perfectly, yet easily. A dress that sets loosely will never 
 display its wrinkles so conspicuously as upon horseback, and one 
 that is too tight is equally bad. The sleeves must be long enough 
 to allow of some play of the arm and wrist, yet not interfere with 
 the motions of the hand. The skirt, while full, graceful, and flow- 
 ing, must avoid the extreme length, which soon becomes disfigured 
 by the mud of the road, and is positively dangerous if of material 
 light enough to be caught by the wind. The boots must be of 
 stout material enough to resist the friction of the stirrup, and the 
 gloves gauntletted and fitting the hand smoothly. 
 
 The most serviceable material for a habit is waterproof cloth, 
 the most dressy fine broadcloth. In summer linen and nankeen 
 may be worn, but should be very heavy, and the hem of the skirt 
 shotted to keep it down. 
 
 The most becoming and appropriate riding-dress is made to fit 
 the waist closely, and button to the throat, with sleeves (coat pat- 
 tern) coming to the wrist. Linen collar and cuffs are en regie. If 
 the waist is cut to open over a shirt front, the latter must be of 
 plain fine linen, never of lace or embroidery. It is better to have 
 the body separate from the skirt, in a basque or jacket, and to 
 have an underskirt of the same material, the usual length for walk- 
 ing, that in case of any mishap to the long skirt, it may be easily 
 removed. Many ladies have the dress made entire of walking 
 length, and then wear over it the long riding skh"t, belted neatly 
 at the waist. 
 
 Bright colors are not in good taste on horseback, deep blue or 
 green, and in summer a bufi", in linen or nankeen, being the most 
 conspicuous colors allowable. The gloves must be of buckskin, or 
 beaver cloth, and of buff", white, or neutral tint. A little liveliness 
 in the necktie is sometimes permitted, but a narrow black ribbon 
 is in better taste. 
 
 In the hat wear a compact #ape, and avoid anything that will 
 stream on the wind in trimming. The veil must be carefully se- 
 cured, and the hair arranged as snugly as possible. However 
 pretty and graceful floating ribbons and fluttering curls upon 
 horseback may be in theory, in reality they will be found annoying 
 to the rider and her escort, soon blowzy and unbecoming, and al- 
 ways in bad taste. 
 
54 OUT-DOOR DRESSES— RIDING. 
 
 Jewelry is entirely out of place, excepting Avhat is absolutely 
 necessary to fasten the different parts of the dress, and what is 
 worn must be of the plainest kind. If a feather is worn in the 
 hat, it must be carefully secured, and held away from danger of 
 falhng over the eyes. 
 
 The whip should be carefully secured to the waist by an elastic 
 band. Taste and richness may govern the selection of this little 
 article, which is often made a token of friendship, and affords 
 scope for the exercise of some coquetry in wearing. Glittering 
 stones are not in good taste, but the handle may be finished with 
 gold, enamelled, decorated with coral, or, in short, allowing any 
 freak of fancy in its manafacture. 
 
 The trimming for a riding-habit must invariably be flat. Ruff- 
 ling, puffing, or flouncing, are all out of place. The handsomest 
 finish is a narrow braid of black, or a perfect match for the mate- 
 rial, sewn on in an elaborate pattern. Large buttons form an ap- 
 propriate finish, and young ladies may allow their fancy some play 
 in the selection. Fancy hairnets, gaudy hat trimmings, flashing 
 jewelry, are never more vulgar than when exhibited in a riding- 
 dress, while simple elegance has here one of its most appropriate 
 opportunities for display. ^ 
 
 As a rule, the heavy materials are the best in a habit. Alpaca 
 is sometimes worn, but is unsuitable, being liable to tear easily, to 
 be caught by the wind, and looking flimsy and cheap. If the 
 weather requires a body of lighter material than is appropriate for 
 the skirt, it must be a perfect match in color and density of mate- 
 rial, or it will look very badly. 
 
 In winter a habit is very appropriate and handsome made of 
 broadcloth, fitting the figure perfectly, with a basque waist, trim- 
 med at the throat, wrists, and round the skirt, with fur ; a cap 
 of velvet the same color as the dress, or a happy contrast, trim- 
 med with a fur band and ear-covers ; gauntlet gloves of dark 
 cloth, embroidered, and boots of stMt leather with a fur band. 
 
 In summer a dress of heavy linen, braided with fine braid, white, 
 or the color of the dress ; a straw hat, trimmed with a close plume 
 or knots of ribbon (avoiding any dangling or floating trimming); 
 gloves of white or buff wash-leather, and boots of kid, is hand- 
 some and appropriate. 
 
 A loose sacque or jacket is very awkward on horseback. It 
 
OUT-DOOR dresses-churcb:. 55 
 
 maizes a graceful figure appear clumsy, and will conceal no defects 
 if the figure is bad. We should recommend those, who are not so 
 fortunate as to possess a symmetrical figure, to avoid too public a 
 display on horseback ; as there is no dress in which there is so 
 httle opportunity of artistically concealing, or of veihng from 
 prominent notice, any natural defects. Still, a lady of a most 
 graceful figure, not completely at ease in the saddle, will often 
 compare quite unfavorably with one less naturally gifted, but pos- 
 sessing the great advantage of thorough proficiency in the art of 
 riding. 
 
 OUT-DOOE DEESSES— CHURCH. 
 
 It is too much the custom in the cities of the United States to 
 make the house of public worship the scene for the display of 
 finery, and to think more of the bonnets worn by ourselves or our 
 neighbors than of the purposes for which the congregation is as- 
 sembled together. To go to church " to see and be seen," it is 
 needless to say, is the aim of too many of the fair sex, and it would 
 be useless as well as absurd to enter upon a sermon against such 
 vanity within tho compass of our little book. 
 
 We by no means would advocate appearing in the sacred edifice 
 in a careless, slovenly dress. It would be a gross disrespect of the 
 place and the occasion, but we insist that the lady perfect mistress 
 of the art of dressing well, will not select Sunday for the display 
 of finery. A simple, modest elegance will mark her church- 
 going costume, perfect in neatness, taste, and in finish, yet with 
 nothing conspicuous to attract attention or provoke comment, even 
 if admiring. 
 
 Rustling silks are especially annoying in church, as the least 
 movement of the wearer causes them to make a noise sufficient to 
 make inaudible for the moment the voice of the preacher. Strong 
 perfumes are another mai-k of low breeding, as many of them are 
 intensely disagreeable to some persons, one of whom may be 
 obliged to bear the annoyance of its close proximity during the 
 entire service. 
 
 Indeed any pecuharity that by attracting attention disturbs the 
 
56 OUT-DOOR DRESSES— CROQUET. 
 
 devotion, or causes annoyance to others, is in the worst possible 
 taste in church, bad enough, we admit, in any public place, but 
 worst of all there. 
 
 Materials that make no rustling, soft woolen fabrics in winter, 
 and noiseless fabrics in siunmer, will be found the most agreeable 
 to wear in church, and can be made handsome and appropriate. 
 If silk is worn, the heavier it is the better it will serve the pur- 
 pose. 
 
 OUT-DOOE DEESSES— CEOaUET. 
 
 This highly popular and healthy recreation affords an oppor- 
 tunity for the display of some coquetry and liveliness of costume, 
 as it is more especially adapted to and cultivated by the younger 
 portion of the community. 
 
 The croquet-ground being usually open and not well-shaded, the 
 first requisite is a very broad-brimmed hat, which will be found 
 more pleasant wear if trimmed with a band of broad ribbon pass- 
 ing over the crown and tied under the chin, either through the 
 brim or over it, holding the hat in gipsy shape. The dress must 
 be made tight-fitting, without sacque or shawl, as a free motion 
 of the arms is essential to skill and grace in the game. The skirt 
 must be short, and the boot, so much exposed in the game, while 
 pretty and exquisite in fit, should have a substantial sole, and be 
 of stout leather or cloth. The kid boots en suite with the prevail- 
 ing color of the dress, are very pretty in croquet. 
 
 Colors rather brighter than good taste will permit in the walk- 
 ing-suit, are admissible for the croquet-dresa, and cool, thin mate- 
 rials are preferable, as it is certainly a warm-weather amusement, 
 and requires active exercise in the player. 
 
 Croquet gloves should be of soft material to allow full play of 
 the hand. Kid would be apt to split soon, if it fitted nicely, and 
 would easily soil. The prettiest glove is Avhite lisle-thread, stitched 
 with a color to match or contrast favorably with the prevailing 
 color of the dress. These are pretty, and when soiled by the 
 mallet, will bear washing, and come out fresh and new again ; they 
 are flexible, too, and allow free play of the fingers. AVhite silk 
 
OUR-DOOR DRESSES— SKATING. 57 
 
 gloves are also pretty and suitable. Gauntletted gloves of buck- 
 skin or beaverskin are very suitable. Playing without gloves is 
 apt to make the band hard, and if the skin is very delicate, to 
 blister it. 
 
 It will display to great advantage the skill of the lady in assort- 
 ing colors to arrange a becoming and appropriate croquet-dress. 
 The surroundings are all bright, trees, bushes, flowers, sunlight, 
 and gayety, so a sombre dress will be jarring to many of the party, 
 while too much variety in the assortment of color is never in very 
 good taste. 
 
 A white marseilles or pique, made short, trimmed with cluny 
 lace and ribbon, hat of straw or white book-muslin, trimmed to 
 match the dress, gloves of white thread, stitched with the color of 
 the ribbons worn, and hght kid boots, will be a pretty croquet cos- 
 tume. 
 
 Equally pretty are the striped Roman skirts, with a well-con- 
 trasted over- skirt, broad hat and bronze boots. Long skirts are 
 not well-adapted to this amusement, unless worn by a lady well- 
 skilled in their management, when they are certainly graceful and 
 coquettish. A pretty foot, only partially seen, and the drapery 
 suffered to fall in becoming folds, yet not interfering with the play, 
 are not easily managed, yet the addition of the train to the figure, 
 and the coquettish play of the hand and foot, are not to be de- 
 spised by the lady who plays for efiect. 
 
 OUT-DOOE DEESSES— SKATING. 
 
 Excepting in the warmth of the material employed, the ' same 
 rules applicable for the croquet-dress will serve for the skating 
 costume, namely, compact fit, and a certain liberty in the choice 
 of color. 
 
 Warm tints, rich materials, and room for free play of the limbs, 
 are all to be observed in the choice of this most coquettish of all 
 dresses. The skirts must clear the ankle, and the sacque or 
 basque must leave the arms perfectly free. 
 
 Velvet trimmed with fur, tm'ban hat of the same, high kid boots 
 
58 OUT-DOOR DRESSES-SKATING. 
 
 Avith fur tops, and j^loves fuv-bound at the wrists, will make the 
 richest skating costume ; but more inexpensive material, tastefully- 
 made and trimmed, can be made very etfective. Cashmere broad- 
 cloth, merino, and poplin, are all suitable materials for this dress, 
 and velvet, ribbon, gimp, in fact any trimming fashion dictates, 
 may be worn, although nothing is so becoming, comfortable, and 
 ai)propriate as fur. 
 
 The boots must be sufficiently loose to allow the skate to be 
 fastened securely without in any way cramping the foot. Not 
 only is all grace of motion and comfort destroyed by tight boots, 
 but the danger of frozen feet is much increased by this interfer- 
 ence with the circulation of the blood. 
 
 The muff should be attached to a ribbon or cord and suspended 
 from the neck, and should be quite small, just large enough to 
 hold the hands comfortably. 
 
 Any display of jewelry is vulgar, only that necessary to finish 
 the dress being in good taste. Jewelled clasps for the hat, 
 feather, and other displays of the kind, are all in bad taste. 
 
 Scotch plaid for some portions of the dress, without being too 
 prominent, has a very pretty effect. 
 
 Crimson, and the deeper shades of blue, purple, rich browns, 
 and black, when somewhat relieved by contrasting colors, are all 
 in better taste for the skating-dress than light blues, or greens, or 
 any of the cold neutral tints. If green is worn, it should be of a 
 dark shade, and relieved by rich, dark furs. Velvet of the richest 
 quality, with mink trimming, is handsome ih dark green, but try- 
 ing to most complexions. 
 
 Floating ribbons, veils — unless masks in shape — fringe, or, in 
 fact, any trimming that is apt to catch, will be found troublesome 
 upon the ice, although they add to the graceful appearance of a 
 finished skater. 
 
 White furs, though a beautiful finish to a rich velvet dress, are 
 suitable for no other, and should be worn only by a skater of ex- 
 perience, as the novice will find them much injured by falling, and 
 a soiled fur will ruin the handsomest dress. 
 
 Broadcloth, or any woolen material, is handsomest trimmed 
 with dark fur, or broad folds of velvet the same color as the dress. 
 Silk will bear white fur, but is not a material adapted for the 
 dress, unless very heavy and corded, and of a rich warm' color. 
 
OUT-BOOR DRESSES— PIC-NIC. 59 
 
 Irish poplin of claret color, garnet, dark blue, or brown, trims v»^ell 
 with white or dark fur, but the lighter silks are not effective or ap- 
 propriate 
 
 Fur may be worn at the throat, wrists, ankles, on the edge of 
 the jacket, and even the edge of the skirt, on the cap or hat, and 
 in a muff. Ear caps of fur are comfortable, and becoming. 
 
 OUT-DOOE DEESSES— PIC-NIO. 
 
 The pic-nic dress is by no means so simple a costume to arrange 
 as may at first appear, Pic-nic is a word that invites the company 
 to an entire day spent in the open air, fine weather being under- 
 stood, but not invariably attained. In selecting the dress it is fair 
 to conclude that summer fabric is most suitable, yet a northeast 
 rain, or a heavy thunder-storm may send the wearer of pretty 
 muslin or lawn shivering home to occupy a sick bed. Even sup- 
 posing the day fair throughout, the light fabric so becoming and 
 pretty in the morning, may be caught by bush or brier, stained by 
 fruit or grass, and present a most woe-begone appearance by 
 noon. 
 
 The main objects are comfort, suitability, and beauty, and to 
 combine the three is a practice in the art of dressing well by no 
 means to be despised. Wash material is the best, thin enough for 
 comfort on a warm day, inexpensive enough for full freedom, stout 
 enough to resist thorns and branches, and yet admitting of taste in 
 the color and fashion. The great variety of such fabrics will allow 
 of a display of taste in the selection, even if the cheapest of chintz 
 is worn. 
 
 French cambric is one of the prettiest materials that can be 
 selected for a pic-nic dress. It is light and cool, yet stout enough 
 to bear some pulling and straining; it washes well and can be 
 made in pretty fashion. 
 
 A broad hat, completely shading the face, thick-soled boots, and 
 a waterproof cloak, should always form portions of a pic-nic dress. 
 Parasols and umbrellas are thereby rendered superfluous, and 
 they are always awkward additions. Lawn, muslin, and the va- 
 rieties of white dress goods, make beautiful pic-nic dresses, but are 
 
60 OU'l-DOOR DRESSES— TRAVELLING. 
 
 apt to suffer severely if there is much climbing, or active out-door 
 exercise. 
 
 Trailing skirts are out of place, but pretty gay ribbons may be 
 worn, and are effective. Light, gay colors, happily blended or 
 contrasted, are perfectly appropriate. Many ladies display a 
 coquettish taste in a dainty little white apron worn while dinner is 
 preparing and eaten, and then packed away in the lunch-basket. 
 Gloves are best of white thread, that may be afterwards washed, 
 but gloves at a pic-nic are not de rijueur, and may be left at home 
 if the hand does not tan easily. 
 
 In the chapter on cosmetics will (see page 109) be found some 
 directions for removing the tan, freckles, &c.. that are apt to follow 
 a day spent on a pic-nic, but the best preventives are gloves, a 
 broad hat, and a material for the dress thick enough to protect 
 perfectly the neck and arms. 
 
 OUT-POOE DRESSES— TEAYELLING. 
 
 A lady's dress is never more exposed to criticism than when 
 she is travelling, and there is no surer index of her taste and skill 
 in the art of dressing well than is shown in this important cos- 
 tume. Vulgarity of taste will dictate a conspicuous style, utterly 
 abhorrent to a refined eye, while quiet elegance is never more 
 attractive than in a travelling companion. 
 
 Jewelry, artificial flowers, lace, or finery of any kind in a travel- ^ 
 ling-dress, will prove the most vulgar desire for display, and con- ' 
 spicuous colors are in as bad taste. 
 
 The great variety of goods now sold expressly for travelling 
 suits, affords full scope for the display of taste in a selection. 
 Neutral tints are de rigucur, and a large linen duster is always a 
 desirable wrap to protect the suit. In summer linen is most com- 
 fortable, and has the advantage of cleanliness, as it can be washed 
 often and look well. In winter, waterproof cloth, a dress and 
 loose sack, will be found the most serviceable wear. Thread 
 gloves in summer, and cloth in winter, are preferable to kid. If 
 furs are worn, squirrel skin will show the dust least, and are most 
 
OUT-DOOR DRESSES— TRAVELLINO. 61 
 
 economical, as expensive furs are often badly injured by the dust, 
 dampness, and crushing of travelling, 
 
 A travelling-dress should always be made quite short, and the 
 underskirts should be of woolen in winter, and dark linen in sum- 
 mer ; white petticoats will not look well but a very short time on a 
 journey. 
 
 Strong, thick-soled kid boots should always be worn in travel- 
 ling, even in summer. 
 
 The hat or bonnet must be trimmed compactly, without feathers 
 or flowers, and protected by a thick barege veil. 
 
 As no lady can appear well dressed in crushed or rumpled cloth- 
 ing, the following directions for packing a trunk are added, that 
 all may be fresh at the end of the journey : 
 
 To pack a trunk neatly, everything should be laid out in readi- 
 ness, neatly folded and sorted, the light articles divided from the 
 heavy ones, and a supply of towels and soft wrapping-paper at 
 hand. Spread a thick, clean towel over the bottom of the trunk, 
 and place upon it the hard, flat things, such as the portfolio, work- 
 box, jewel-box, music-books, writing-desk, and boxes ; take care 
 to fit them well together, so as to be level on top, filling in crevices 
 with such small articles as will not be injured by compressment, 
 as stockings, towels, or flannels. Wrap all polished boxes in soft 
 paper before packing, and guard the corners well from rubbing 
 against each other. Never use newspapers in packing, as they 
 will certainly ruin whatever clothing rubs against them. 
 
 In packing shoes, it is best to have a shoe-bag, or two pieces 
 of calico bound together and divided into pockets, each large 
 enough to hold one shoe. Spread this flat over the bottom of the 
 trunk, if there is room left by the flat, hard articles. 
 
 Over this first layer spread another towel, and then put in your 
 flannels, linen, such dresses and petticoats as will bear pressure, 
 and any paper boxes for gloves, handkerchiefs, or perfumes. On 
 top of these put the more dressy petticoats, and handsome dresses, 
 unless your trunk has a tray in the lid expressly for this purpose. 
 If the trunk has no bonnet-box, put your bandbox in near the top. 
 In the tray put collars, muslins, handkerchiefs, and a supply of 
 writing-paper, and envelopes, a box of sewing materials, your 
 laces, ribbons, gloves, parasol-box, veils, and any light articles you 
 may wish to carry. 
 
62 OUT-DOOR DRESSES-TRAVELLIXG. 
 
 To fold a dress for packing, spread it, right side out, upon the 
 bed, and taking it by the hem, make tiie bottom exactly even all 
 romid. Next, double the skirt in half, lengtlnvise, and then in 
 four, reversing the fourth fold. After this, turn up, crossways, 
 about one-third of the folded lower part of the skirt, then give 
 the remainder of the skirt a fold backward, terminating at the 
 waist. Then turn the body backward, front uppermost, and the 
 back resting on the folded skirt. Spread out the sleeves, give 
 each a fold forward at the shoulder, and backward at the elbow, 
 and lay them evenly across the body. Place the dress so folded 
 upon a large clean towel, and fold this smoothly over it before 
 placing it in the trunk. 
 
 Under-clothing of all kinds will look much better at the end of 
 a journey if folded instead of rolled, and will pack quite as easily. 
 
 Shawls, cloaks, sacques, and veils, should be folded in their 
 original folds before packing ; gloves should be drawn out smooth 
 and put in a glove-box. Collars and cuffs must be lie in the traj'^, 
 or, better still, in a paper box. 
 
 A bonnet will look better after a journey if the flowers or 
 feathers are taken out and carried separately in a paper box, and 
 the strings are smoothly rolled, not folded, upon pasteboard. 
 
 Leave always room in your trunk for a bag to receive soiled 
 linen, if your journey is to be a long one. 
 
 The travelling-dress should be always of material strong enough 
 to bear some severe jerking and straining, and dark enough to 
 conceal dust or spots, unless it is of material that will wash. It 
 should fit easily, and a sacque of the same material is always best. 
 Pockets in the sacque as well as the dress are convenient, and a 
 strong pocket in the under- skirt is advisable. A collar and cuffs 
 of plain linen, fastened by a simple brooch and buttons, kid boots, 
 and strong gloves, are in the best taste. A hat is generally more 
 convenient than a bonnet, and should be of straw in summer, and 
 felt in winter, simply trimmed. Any fancy material, lace or velvet, 
 is in excessively bad taste in a travelling-hat. 
 
 In addition, a well-dressed lady will be provided with a large 
 linen cape or duster, a heavy blanket shawl, a thick barege veil, a 
 waterpj-oof cloak, and carry in her satchel an extra pair of boots 
 and gloves, clean collar and cuffs. 
 
 Shepherd's plaid, trimmed with fluted ruffles of the same, or with 
 
OUT-DOOR DRESSES—STORMY WEATHER. 63 
 
 flat black braid, is a pretty and cheap matarial for travelling suits, 
 and if of good material, has the advantage of washing "well. 
 
 If the journey is to be a long one, and there is a great deal of 
 hand-luggage required, the duster will be found much more con- 
 venient made into a long sack, wide enough in the skirt to perfect- 
 ly cover and protect the entire dress, and furnished with large, 
 deep pockets. The veil is a more perfect protection if the elastic 
 string is run through the middle, put over the hat, and under the 
 chin, allowing the veil to fall front and back. 
 
 It is in better taste to wear the hair in smooth, comjjact style, 
 than in curls or any flowing fashion, and it will be more likely to 
 escape injury by railroad cinders and the dust of travel. 
 
 Where a journey is to be very long, especially in the winter, 
 colored stockings, colored linen corsets, and colored skirts, will 
 be found much more serviceable than white ones, especially if there 
 is no stop to be made for washing. Soiled linen in a trunk is a 
 most disagreeable addition, and it is not always convenient to carry 
 a satchel for this purpose in the hand. For a sea-voyage it is best 
 to carry an extra trunk especially for underclothing, keeping the 
 top and tray for soiled clothes . 
 
 OUT-DOOE DEESSES— STOEMY WEATHEE. 
 
 Every lady expert in the art of dressing well will be provided 
 with a full suit of seasonable clothing for stormy weather, as there 
 is nothing looks worse than expensive or dressy clothing worn 
 under a cloudy sky, or in a heavy storm The material for a 
 storm suit should be rather heavy, even in summer time, and a 
 waterproof cloak is a valuable addition. The aqua scutum cloth 
 varies so much in thickness that it can be worn at all seasons with 
 comfort, and while it can be obtained quite hght enough for a 
 storm wrap in summer, it is also manufactured heavy enough for 
 the entire dress in winter. 
 
 The storm-dress must be short, not very full, and made with a 
 close-fitting sacque to leave the arms free. The cloak must have 
 a large hood to entirely cover the hat or bonnet. Heavy-soled 
 boots of waterproof leather, coming high on the leg, and iu a 
 
64 WEDDING DREiiSES—BRIDE AND TROUSSEAU. 
 
 snow-storm india rubber boots are indispensable. The petticoat is 
 best made of aqua scutum cloth, short, and bound with the same. 
 
 In summer a stout linen, trimmed with flat white braid, is the 
 most serviceable storm-suit, as it can be washed if wet or mud- 
 died, and the petticoat is best made of the same material. 
 
 If an umbrella is carried, the gloves should be dark and of 
 strong material ; kid is ruined by an umbrella. 
 
 It is a mistaken idea to suppose that "any old thing will do to 
 wear in rainy weather." The well-dressed lady will present as 
 neat and appropriate an appearance in a storm as on the clearest 
 day. She will never appear on the street in a soiled, half- worn 
 dress of by-gone beauty, dragging a trail, perhaps, in the mud ; a 
 bonnet of faded splendor, and old kid gloves, with the fingers 
 peephig out at various open points. You never see her dragging 
 muddy white petticoats through the rain-puddles, and showing a 
 soaked gaiter boot at every step. Every article she wears will be 
 fit for the occasion, and she will come home as dry and comfort- 
 able under her waterproof cloak, and with her waterproof boots, 
 as if she had taken her walk in the sunshine. 
 
 If, however, old dresses are reserved for storm-suits, they should 
 be made short, divested of all superfluous trimming, and be of 
 serviceable material. Flimsy goods will not bear stormy weather, 
 and silk, if old, can be put to many better uses, while one or two 
 hard rains would utterly ruin it. 
 
 The dress worn in a storm should be taken off as soon as pos- 
 sible, spread out to dry, and well aired before it is put away. It 
 will improve the appearance of most dresses to be pressed before 
 wearing again, and all should be thoroughly brushed. 
 
 WEDDINa DEESSES— BRIDE AND TBOUS- 
 
 SEAU. 
 
 The dress for a bride will admit of such immense variety in 
 material, style, expense, and fashion, that it is difficult to give 
 general directions. Yet from the millionaire's daughter to the 
 mechanics child, there is always one rule, that the dress must be 
 white throughout. Dress, veil, gloves, slippers, wreath, or bonnet, 
 
WEDDING DRESSES— BRIDE AND TROUSSEAU. 55 
 
 all must be of pure white for a full dress bridal. The material 
 varies moire antique, heavy satin, costly lace over silk, corded or 
 plain silk, alpaca, muslin, or fine bishop's lawn, are all suitable for 
 the wedding-dress. The veil may be of illusion, lace, or very fine 
 tuile, but should be long, very full, and fine. It is fastened by the 
 wreath, but whether to fall over the face or not, is a matter left to 
 Fashion. 
 
 The slippers should be of white satin, and the gloves of white 
 kid, trimmed with white lace or white satin ribbon. 
 
 No jewelry is suitable for a bride, excepting diamonds or 
 pearls. 
 
 The French bridal costume is very simple ; in England it is 
 more elaborate, while in this country it is very apt to be an occa- 
 sion of ostentatious extravagance painfully absurd. 
 
 In France the noblest born and wealthiest maidens go to the 
 bridal arrayed in soft white tulle over white silk, a long veil of 
 white tulle, reaching to the ground, and a wreath of maiden-blush 
 roses interwoven with orange blossoms. No jewelry is worn, nor 
 is costly lace or elaborate trimming allowed. 
 
 In England the richest lace is worn over satin, the veil is of 
 costly lace, the wreath elaborate, and pearls and diamonds of great 
 value are selected for wedding jewelry. 
 
 The same variety of selection of material, quality and quantity, 
 that apphes to the wedding-dress, is equally applicable to the 
 trousseau, but for a person in moderate circumstances, we give the 
 usual quantity, which may be varied indefinitely, according to the 
 purse or taste of the fair bride, or her parents. 
 
 Tkousseau. 
 
 Six linen chemises, and six muslin chemises. The linen ones 
 should be of very fine Irish linen, made with yoke or band, and 
 handsomely trimmed. Fine needlework embroidery is a handsome 
 finish but takes a great deal of time ; in its place cambric bands 
 are worn of handsome needlework, or fine ruffling of linen cambric, 
 edged with narrow lace. The muslin ganuents may be made in 
 plainer fashion, and trimmed with embroidered bands, cambric 
 rufflins:, tape trimming, or pretty edging. 
 
 Six pairs of linen drawers, and six pairs of muslin drawers. 
 The linen ones should be tucked about three-eighths of a yard, 
 
66 WEDDING DRESSES— BRIDE AND TROUSSEAU. 
 
 and finished with embroidery, cambric bands, or cambric ruffling, 
 edged with lace. The muslin ones should be finished with a 
 neat edge of ^button-hole stitched points or scallops, or a pretty- 
 edging. 
 
 It is preferable in making a trousseau to make up the chemises 
 and drawers in sets, trimming them to match and be worn to- 
 gether. If embroidered, the patterns on the drawers should be 
 somewhat broader than those, on chemise bands, and the same 
 rule applies to ruffles, Avhether of cambric or finer material. 
 
 Six fine night-dresses, and six plain night-dresses. Fine night- 
 dresses are usually made of cambric, with deep yokes. These may 
 be trimmed in a variety of styles, cambric edging finishing them 
 handsomely at the throat, and is also a handsome finish at the 
 wrist. The embroidered yokes must have cuffs and collars to 
 match, but tucked yokes can be finished by ruffling or edging. A 
 very pretty yoke is made by alternate rows of narrow tucks and 
 insertion of embroidery, tatting or tape, with an edging to match. 
 Coventry ruffling edged with narrow Valenciennes is a pretty trim- 
 ming for cambric or linen yokes. 
 
 Muslin night dresses can be made with yokes or in sack-pattern, 
 and trimmed in a variety of ways. Many make up elaborately 
 embroidered yokes in muslin ; but it is better economy to em- 
 broider on linen, and make up in good cambric, as muslin will not 
 last as long as the needlework, and is never so handsome. A * 
 pretty finish to plain muslin night-dresses is a linen tape edging, 
 and it wears well ; another is a tatting edge, and an edge of button- 
 hole-stitch scallops worked on the garment, Avill be foflnd pretty 
 and durable. 
 
 Night-dresses should be made long, and have a broad hem at 
 the skirt ; the skirt set on a yoke should be made full, and they are 
 handsome trimmed down the hem from the throat to the bottom of 
 the skirt, with cambric insertion and edging, and pretty mother- 
 of-pearl buttons. Short night-gowns are no longer worn much, 
 and are not considered necessary now in a handsome wedding 
 outfit. 
 
 Three fine corset-covers, and three plain corset-covers. The pret- 
 tiest material for a handsome corset-cover is a fine cambric or thiclt 
 nainsook muslin. If made full, the band should be of handsome 
 French embroidery on cambric, round the shoulders and sleeves. 
 
WEDDING DRESSES— BRIDE AND TROUSSEAU. 67 
 
 If made plain, ruffling of linen cambric edged with lace is a pretty 
 finish. A gold stud is prettier than a button to fasten the corset- 
 cover at the band, and the buttons running down the front should 
 be of mother-of-pearl, or three gold shirt studs. Plain corset- 
 covers should be of linen, and trimmed with a neat edging and 
 pearl buttons. It is best to allow a corsefc-cover long waisted 
 enough to cover the entire corset, and run in a drawing- string at 
 the waist, allowing the skirt to hang loose. They are thus a more 
 perfect protection to the corset, and will be much more easily- 
 ironed. A corset-cover made lately for a trousseau was of very 
 fine cambric, with rows of embroidered cambric insertion and puff- 
 ings alternating crosswise down the front, the band of insertion 
 and edging to match, the sleeves puffed with a similar band. Stud- 
 holes for gold studs, finished the waist. The skirt was half a yard 
 long, and finished with a narrow cambric edging. It was drawn 
 in at the waist by a casing of tape, with three narrow bobbin tapes 
 run in and drawn. 
 
 One pair of embroidered white corsets, two pairs of plain white 
 corsets, and one pair of colored corsets. These should all be of 
 the best material, and made to fit the figure accurately. There is 
 no economy in cheap corsets, and an ill-fitting pair will spoil the 
 beauty of the most perfectly fitted dress. Colored corsets are only 
 suitable for travelling, but will be found then a useful addition to 
 the wardrobe. Several pairs of corset lacings should be put with 
 the corsets, as they are very apt to break, and it is well to have 
 also extra steels covered with kid, in case of one snapping. A 
 pretty finish for a dress-corset is a row of open edging with a nar- 
 row ribbon run in and drawn tightly around the shoulders. French 
 corsets of the best make will be found to wear much better, keep 
 their shape longer, wash better, and in every way prove far more 
 serviceable than any others that can be worn. 
 
 One dozen pairs of heavy cotton hose, and one dozen pairs of 
 fine thread hose. These should be of the best quality, and if the 
 lady is accustomed to woolen stockings, a dozen of fine merino had 
 better be added to the list. 
 
 Six tucked and trimmed skirts, and six plain skirts. The tucked 
 skirts should be made of the fine skirt cambric, and the tucks may 
 vary according to the taste. A pretty set is made of one, with a 
 broad hem p'Tid five very narrow tucks close above it ; one, with 
 
68 WEDDING DRESSES-BRIDE AND TROUSSEAU. 
 
 broad tucks alike to the waist ; one with groups of live narrow tucks 
 and an insertion of cambric embroidery between (this must be fin- 
 ished by cambric edging to match) ; one with narrow tucks to tlio 
 waist ; one with graduated groups of narrow tucks eight, seven, six 
 five, four and three, with a space between the width of the group 
 below it ; and one with a row of tucks running up and down set in 
 between two tucks running lengthwise above and below it. Plain 
 skirts are made of fine shirting muslin with a broad hem, and should 
 be two inches shorter than the fine skirts worn above them. All 
 skirts will wear longer if a trimming is set on the edge. Goffered 
 ruffles are worn, and there is a great variety of pretty edgings for 
 skirts. 
 
 Six short tucked skirts, and six short plain skirts. In the 
 present fashion of dress these required to be gored to be worn 
 under the short walking-dress. They may be made like the long 
 ones in other respects. 
 
 - Two Balmoral skirts, one rather dressy, and one plain for 
 stormy weather. The best material for the latter is waterproof 
 cloth, trimmed with rows of skirt braid. 
 
 Three embroidered flannel skirts, and three plain flannel skirts. 
 The first may be embroidered in fine white embroidery silk, or 
 with white silk braided braid. They should not be hemmed, but 
 finished by scollops in embroidery silk, or bound with fine flannel 
 binding. The plain skirts should be bound simply, and plaited on 
 a waistband. There is a fine linen thread used for embroidering 
 flannel that washes better than silk, and fine linen braid has the 
 same advantage over silk braid, but they are not so handsome 
 when first worked. 
 
 Two Mdiite dressing sacques, two flannel dressing sacques. The 
 white ones should be made of fine brilliant, or striped cambric, 
 with broad ruffles of the same, and finished at the throat and 
 Avrists by cambric edging. The shape should be a loose, easily- 
 fitting sacque, long on the hips, and with coat sleeves, corded at 
 the seams. Flannel ones are of sacque flannel of any color suited 
 to the complexion, and trimmed with a binding of bias silk, or a 
 button-hole stitch edge of silk, the same or a contrasting color. 
 These will be found very useful on cool mornings, to replace the 
 breakfast shawls, which is awkward to sew or write in. 
 
 One breakfast shawl, knit of fine zephyr of any becoming colors, 
 
- WEDDING DRESSES— BRIDE AND TROUSSEAU. 69 
 
 "vvith a handsomely shaded border, will be found a useful and 
 handsome addition to the trousseau. 
 
 Two loose wrappers, made of fine French chintz or cashmere, 
 according to the season. The present fashion of long, gored 
 wrappers are prettiest for these, and they may be trimmed in a 
 variety of styles to suit the taste of the wearer. (Jayer colors are 
 allowable in these loose wrappers than in other garments, and they 
 admit of a rather elaborate style of trimming. Facing of quilted 
 silk and puffs of ribbon are pretty for a cashmere wrapper, and 
 large buttons make a handsome finish. 
 
 Two pairs of walking-boots ; one pair should be of waterproof 
 leather, with heavy soles, to wear in stormy weather ; the other 
 pair of fine French kid, finished for a dress-boot, according to the 
 prevailing fashion. 
 
 One pair of dressing-slippers of embroidered kid or cloth ; one 
 pair of kid slippers with rosqttes for house wear, and two pairs of 
 evening slippers of white and black satin. If preferred, these may 
 be replaced by satin boots for evening wear. In a very elaborate 
 trousseau, boots are worn en suite for all dresses, but this adds 
 greatly to the expense. Black or white satin are admissible for 
 every style of evening dress, the first being the most becoming to 
 the foot the last the most dressy. Slippers are worn trimmed 
 with a rosette of satin ribbon the color of the dress, or with a lace 
 rosette the color of the slipper. 
 
 Two pairs of gaiter boots, one pair with light soles for house 
 wear, and the others with thick soles for the street in fair weather. 
 
 Six sets of linen collars and cuffs, for morning wear, travelhng 
 and other occasions where the dress is simple. These should be 
 of fine Ihien, made perfectly plain; a trimmed linen collar or cuff' is 
 about as suitable as a flounced ten-cent calico The material may 
 be of the most exquisite quality if desired, but never trimmed. 
 
 Six sets of lace or embroidered collars and cuffs. Real lace 
 should always be selected, or very fine French embroidery. 
 
 The additional laces of a trousseau must depend upon the pre- 
 vaihng fashions and the season of the year. At times when square- 
 necked waists are worn, puffed lace chimisettes are also necessary, 
 and ruffles are often in fashion of the finest lace. Lace is univer- 
 sally becoming at the throat and wrists, and when ruffles are in 
 fashion, nothing can give a prettier finish to any dress, than soft 
 
70 WEDDING DRESSES— liRIDE AND TROUSSEAU. 
 
 lace so worn. In this same connection we may include nock rib- 
 bons, which must be selected also according to fashion and the 
 dresses. Two for each dress is an ample supply. 
 
 Six pairs of kid gloves. Two pairs of these should be white for 
 evening wear, two pairs light for full dress walking-suits, and two 
 pairs dark for plain walking-suits. To these should be added two 
 pairs of thread or cloth, according to the season. This is a very 
 moderate supply, and could be doubled, if practicable^ 
 
 One dozen fme hemstitched handkerchiefs, one dozen plain 
 handkerchiefs, and half a dozen fine embroidered or lace-trimmed 
 handkerchiefs. These should all be marked with the initial or 
 monogram embroidered in fine white cotton in one corner. 
 
 Two morning dresses, two afternoon dresses, two walking-suits, 
 one very handsome to return bridal calls, one for promenade, two 
 evening dresses, one travelling-dress, and one water-proof suit. 
 
 The descriptions of dresses are given so fully in other parts of 
 the book that it is needless to recapitulate them. We would re- 
 mark, however, that it is much better to supply amply the under- 
 clothing, and such articles as are not subject to the caprice of 
 fashion in a trousseau, as the style of dress is so variable that a 
 very large supply of outside garments will be found to become old- 
 fashioned before they are at all worn. It is well to observe this 
 rule, also, in the purchase of hats, bonnets and wraps. One hand- 
 some shawl, one lace shawl, one travelling shawl, one velvet cloak, 
 one cloth cloak, one dress bonnet and hat, and one travelling bon- 
 net or hat, will be found a liberal supply before fashion forces a 
 replenishing of the wardrobe. 
 
 The travelling dress for a bride is allowed to be more dressy 
 than that worn upon other occasions. It may be made of silk or 
 worsted poplin, or of any of the finer fabrics manufactui'ed for 
 walking suits, and handsomely trimmed. A bonnet of the same 
 color, with white strings and trimmings, or those of the same tint, 
 kid gloves and boots, are all allowable in the bride's travelling suit. 
 
 If the bride is expecting a series of parties in her honor, and 
 does not wish always to wear the wedding-dress, she will find a 
 dress of white lace and one of black lace to be worn over colored 
 silks, a handsome and useful addition to the trousseau. 
 
 Head-di-esses must be purchased according to the number of 
 dresses with which they are to be worn, and the prevailing fash- 
 
WEDDING DRESSES— BRIDESMAID. 71 
 
 ions. These admit of so many modifications and alterations that 
 a very few will be found to admit of great variety in wearing, and 
 many are apt to become tiresome before ih.ej are worn out. 
 
 Veils should be provided to match the hats and bonnets. One 
 of fine black lace, and one of thick barege for travelling, are, how- 
 ever, indispensable. Fashion is so capricious in this article that it 
 is best to have but few, and to change them with the bonnet. 
 
 Much will depend upon the plans of the young bride. If she 
 means to travel for several months, her wardrobe must be more 
 adapted to that than the trousseau of the bride who contemplates 
 a winter at home of party-going, or a summer at a fashionable 
 watering-place. No regret can be felt, however, at the provisions 
 of an ample supply of underclothing, and such plain articles as 
 have been given here, even if the dress-maker is more heavily 
 taxed, and the milliner's bills are larger. 
 
 Jewelry must depend entirely upon the wealth and taste of the 
 purchaser, and it is the one portion of the maiden's wardrobe that 
 custom allows her to retain when married. 
 
 A handsome and complete toilet-case and work-box should 
 always form part of a trousseau. 
 
 "When the young couple are to commence house-keeping, the 
 household linen is added to the bride's outfit ; but this is not com- 
 prised in the art of dressing well. 
 
 When a lady is married for the second time, or is advanced in 
 life before marriage, the weeding dress should not be so elaborate 
 or of lace. A rich silk of some pale, neutral tint, as pearl, laven- 
 der, violet or gray, trimmed with white lace and worn with white 
 gloves and slippers, is the most suitable dress. 
 
 WEDDING DRESSES— BEIDESMAID. 
 
 The dress for a bridesmaid, while it should be sufiiciently hand- 
 some and elaborate to honor the occasion, should always be some- 
 what less so than that of the bride, and must be governed by the 
 latter. A bride in simple muslin, with bridesmaids in satin or 
 moire antique would present a contrast utterly absurd and in the 
 worst taste. 
 
72 WEDDING DRESSES— BRIDESMAID. 
 
 While it is entirely proper for the bridesmaids to wear white, as 
 well as the bride, the effect is prettier if their dresses are trimmed 
 with dehcately colored ribbons or flowers, and their head-dresses 
 also of colored flowers. Tulle and tarletan, white lace, white 
 book-muslin, alpaca and silk, are all suitable for the dresses of 
 bridesmaids, the thinner material being the most becoming. White 
 tulle or tarletan worn over silk so delicately tinted as to be scarcely 
 colored, and with trimmings to match, forms an exquisite toilet 
 for a bridesmaid. 
 
 A dress of white tulle over a silk faintly tinted with rose-color, 
 caught up at the sleeves with clusters of blush roses, with head- 
 dress and bouquet de corsage oi the same; a tarletan worn over a 
 pale-blue silk, and trimmed with forget-me-nots ; a white silk illu- 
 sion worn over rose-tinted silk and trimmed with white flowers 
 with pale-green leaves ; a white alpaca trimmed with a delicate 
 violet and violets in the hair and bouquet de corsage ; any of these 
 will be found appropriate, and generally becoming. Sti-ong, glaring 
 colors are entirely out of place, and jewelry is not in good taste — 
 flowers or ribbons being a graceful and appropriate substitute. 
 
 It is a matter of fashion whether the bridesmaids wear veils or 
 not ; but where they are worn they must be shorter than those of 
 the bride, and never cover the face. Long, full streamers of fine 
 tulle are worn in the hair by bridesmaids, very often, and are 
 generally very becoming. 
 
 White satin slippers and white kid gloves are de rigueur for the 
 bridesmaids, though the rosettes for the slippers and the glove- 
 trimmings may match the other trimmings if they are colored. 
 
 If the whole bridal group wear white, the bridesmaids must wear 
 flowers and trimmings different from those of the bride. Jessa- 
 mine, white violets, snow-drops, and white roses are all allowable, 
 and satin frillings or puffings for heavier materials of dress ; but 
 orange flowers belong to the bride, and if she v»-ears much rich 
 lace, illusion only is allowed her attendants. 
 
 If the bridesmaids accompany the bridal party on the wedding 
 trip, as is often the custom, the same rule observable at the wed- 
 ding must apply to the travelling dresses, which must take a second 
 place in point of expense, and should never have any white flowers 
 or ribbons. Indeed, these are not in the best taste even for the 
 bride, as they must be replaced so often to retain any beauty or 
 
 I 
 
WEDDING DRESSES— RECEPTIONS. 73 
 
 freshness. White will not bear the contact of travel-stain for more 
 than a few hours, and nothing looks worse than soiled flowers or 
 ribbons in any dress. 
 
 The same rule which applies to brides of middle age, or to 
 •widows marrying a second time, also applies to their bridesmaids. 
 Pure white is not worn, nor are very thin materials in good taste. 
 Silk of some delicate color, with white gloves and white lace col- 
 lar and cuffs, will be a suitable dress for a maiden lady of middle 
 age, who officiates as bridesmaid for a friend of her own age. 
 
 Nothing could be more painfully absurd than to see a middle- 
 aged couple surrounded by a group of young girls dressed in the 
 airy, dressy costumes suitable for the bridal of a young couple. 
 
 When a wedding takes place by daylight, as in a church, faint 
 shades of canary color, buff, or salmon color, may be worn in the 
 bridesmaids dresses, but by gas-light these colors have the effect 
 of dirty white, and are not suitable or becoming. 
 
 A young lady who is wearing mourning may officiate as a brides- 
 maid in a dress of white trimmed with pale lavender, violet, or 
 purple, worn over silk of the same shade, but black is never to be 
 worn at a wedding. 
 
 If the bridesmaids wear dresses of colored material, as is some- 
 times done, it should be trimmed with white, and white flowers be 
 worn in the head-dress. The colors should always be very delicate, 
 and the effect is much better if the material is thin, and worn over 
 white, or very delicately tinted silk. 
 
 WEDDING DEESSES— EECEPTIONS. 
 
 The dresses of the bride and bridesmaids at a full-dress 
 wedding-reception should be those worn at the wedding ; indeed 
 the full-dress reception generally immediately follows the cere- 
 mony. 
 
 The guests at a wedding-reception in the evening should wear 
 full evenmg-dress, and the colors should be always rather delicate 
 than glarmg, and trimmed with white. White kid gloves and white 
 satin boots or slippers are a rule, and head-dresses of white flow- 
 ers are in good taste. Black is never to be worn at a wedding or 
 
74 WEDDING DRESSES—RECEPTIONS. 
 
 wedding-reception ; persons in the deepest mourning are allowed 
 to wear lavender, white or gray, on these occasions, even if they 
 resume close black immediately afterwards. For a morning re- 
 ception or when a wedding takes place in churcli, and is followed 
 by a reception there, the richest and most dressy street costume 
 should be worn, and white kid gloves are cle rigueur. Many morn- 
 ing receptions follow a wedding at home, where the house is closed 
 and the gas lighted, as if for evening. In such cases, evening- 
 dresa is worn by the guests. 
 
 Even where a wedding is very large, and the reception a full- 
 dress occasion, the dresses are not such as would be worn in a ball- 
 room. Thin materials are made in simpler style, and silks are less 
 trimmed with lace or illusion, while the colors should never be 
 very bright or conspicuous. The bride being always supposed to 
 be the centre of attraction, guests must, for once, take a second 
 place in point of dress as in other respects. To outdress the bride 
 is in bad taste, and where simplicity is the rule amongst the bridal 
 party, the guests must observe it also. Where a bride wears 
 Brussels or point lace over white satin, pearls and diamonds, the 
 guests may be allowed a corresponding magnificence, but where 
 white tulle or muslin is the bridal attire, guests must not strive to 
 be too expensively attired. 
 
 If a reception takes place after a long wedding tour, the bride 
 and bridesmaids do not wear the dress worn at the wedding. If it 
 is an evening reception, dresses of delicately-colored silk, or tulle 
 over silk are worn, made in full-dress style and trimmed with 
 white. For a morning reception the bridal party should wear 
 high-necked, long-sleeved silks, with lace collar and cuffs, hair 
 dressed with ribbons, not flowers, and here some jewelry may be 
 added. Guests wear full-dress walking- costumes or carriage-dress. 
 
 Where a reception is informal, as 
 
 " Wednesdays in October, ''' 
 Or, 
 
 ^^ At home, after Is ov ember Is^," 
 
 the bride can wear a dress suitable for morning calls (see morning 
 calls, page 47) and the bridesmaids are not then expected to bo 
 in attendance. 
 
WEDDING DRESSES— BRIDAL CALLS. 75 
 
 l| WEDDING DRESSES— BEIDAL CALLS. 
 
 In providing a trousseau, one full suit should be selected 
 especially to return the bridal calls, and it should be always of 
 i; rich material and handsomely made in the prevailing fashion. As 
 I these calls are usually made in a carriage, the short walking-dress 
 i now in vogue is not suitable, as it can never be as dressy as the 
 i train-dress and mantle or cloak. 
 
 ! If the calls are made in winter, the dress should be of heavy silk, a 
 I delicate color, made with a train, and handsomely trimmed ; the cloak 
 i of black velvet with lace trimming, or of white fur with handsome 
 ■ satin lining, and richly finished. Over a velvet cloak, white furs 
 may be worn, and dark furs are also in good taste. The bonnet 
 must be of white with a white veil. White velvet, trimmed with 
 white lace, feathers or flowers, or white silk with similar trimming, 
 v/ill be suitable for a bride's bonnet. Ornaments of dead or pol- 
 ished gold may be worn, but colored or glittering gems are in bad 
 taste. The boots should be of black silk or of black lasting. 
 Gloves of dehcate-colored kid. 
 
 For a summer dress, a delicate-colored silk may be worn with a 
 white or black lace shawl, the former being the most suitable and 
 becoming. The collar and cuffs must be of white lace, and the 
 bonnet of white lace, tulle, or crape, trimmed with orange blos- 
 soms. Gloves of white kid, and boots of black silk or satin. If a 
 parasol is carried, it should be of white silk or of delicate-colored 
 silk, covered with white lace. 
 
 For a spring or fall dress, the cloak or mantle should be of 
 rich black silk, or of the same silk as the dress, and the bonnet may 
 be of white silk "svith lace trimmings. 
 
 If the more expensive dress is not consistent with the means of 
 the bride, a light silk dress, cloak of light cloth, and bonnet 
 of white silk will form a becoming winter dress for bridal calls, 
 and in summer, organdie, lawn or white materials may be worn with 
 a sacque, cloak or mantle of white muslin, and bonnet of chip or 
 Neapolitan straw, trimmed with white, 
 
 A bride who is wearing mourning should wear violet, lavender 
 
76 DINNER DRESSES-HOSTESS. 
 
 or delicate shades of lilac for bridal calls, even if she is wearing 
 closer mourning at other times. 
 
 Very decided colors are not suitable for this occasion. The 
 dress shoidd be of pearl color, ashes of roses, or some other del- 
 icate neutral tint. We have seen a bride paying calls in dark-blue 
 silk with crimson flowers in her bonnet, but the more subdued and 
 delicate colors are in far better taste, even in winter. 
 
 DINNEE DEESSES— HOSTESS. 
 
 It is not the fashion in this country, as in England, to wear full 
 dress at a dinner party, even if the hour is late, unless it is under- 
 stood that dancing is to follow in the evening, or other guests to 
 be invited to make the occasion a full-dress affair. 
 
 The usual dress for the hostess at a large dinner party is several 
 degrees less dress than that to be worn for an evening costume. 
 Much depends upon the age of the lady, a young lady being 
 allowed somewhat more scope for her fancy than one of middle 
 age, or more advanced in life. For a young hostess a dress should 
 be of rich silk, made high in the neck and with long sleeves, trim- 
 med in accordance with the fashion, a head-dress of ribbon, collar 
 and cuffs of fine lace, and some jewelry is allowable. If the 
 dinner is to be by daylight, gold, coral, or enamel is the most 
 suitable, but if by gaslight, glittering stones that match or contrast 
 well with the dress may be worn. 
 
 For a lady more advanced in life, a satin or silk of a rich, dark 
 color, or a black moire antique, makes a handsome dinner-dress. 
 If a cap is worn, it should be of white lace, and a few delicate 
 flowers may be worn. Jewelry on an elderly lady should be more 
 distinguished for its value, than for any fantasy in design that 
 might be becoming to a youthful face or figure. Gloves, if worn 
 in the drawing-room before and after dinner, are now removed at 
 the table. Some elderly ladies wear black lace mittens, and these 
 may be retained at the table. 
 
 The dress of a hostess should always be rather subdued than 
 conspicuous, as any appearance of an attempt to outshine her 
 guests is in very bad taste. There is no dress worn by a hostess 
 
DINNER DRESSES— GUEST. 77 
 
 at a dinner-party more elegant than a rich black silk, trimmed with 
 real lace, which may be arranged to meet the fashion and the age 
 of the wearer. A young person may relieve the sombre tint by a 
 neck ribbon, and hair ribbons of some bright color, or by colored 
 gems, or even a flower worn in the bosom, v/hile elderly ladies can 
 trim the cap to dispel the gloomy effect of an entirely black dress. 
 Colored silks, if worn, should be of deeper colors than are worn 
 in evening- dress, or in summer of the neutral tints. 
 
 For a middle-aged lady of commanding figure and stately car- 
 riage, a dinner-dress of rich velvet* is appropriate and handsome. 
 It may be worn with diamonds, but will not admit of any light 
 trimming. For a young person the effect is heavy, and it is never 
 becoming to small figures. 
 
 DINNEE DEESSES— GUEST. 
 
 The dinner dress for a guest must be governed somewhat by the 
 character of the entertainment. In this country social gatherings 
 do not take this form to the extent that they do in Europe, where 
 a dinner is the most common form of entertainment offered to 
 guests. In the United States a dinner party is apt to be confined 
 entirely to male guests, even if the lady of the house presides. 
 
 In case, however, an invitation to dinner is sent to a lady, she 
 should wear a very rich and handsome in-door dress, less dressy 
 then one selected for evening wear. Silk or velvet may be worn 
 to a full-dress dinner party, and handsome jewels are also perfectly 
 appropriate. Yet, even for very young ladies, the dinner dress 
 should be made to cover the n€ck and arms, if only with puffed 
 lace or illusion worn under the heavier material of the dress. 
 
 In summer light goods of rich fabric, as French organdies, gren- 
 adines or bareges worn over silk are appropriate for dinner-dresses, 
 and natural flowers may be worn. Artificial flowers are not appro- 
 priate for a dinner-dress, unless worn in the caps of elderly ladies. 
 
 White kid gloves are appropriate, but it is customary to remove 
 them when actually at the table. 
 
 For young unmarried ladies light silks with lace sleeves and rib- 
 bon or natural flowers in the hair may be worn. Married ladies 
 
78 EVENING DRESSES— HOSTESS. 
 
 should wear heavier silks, and elderly ladies may wear satin or 
 heavy moire antique. The occasion is only too apt to be one of 
 stately solemnity. 
 
 A very handsome dinner-dress, and appropriate to almost any 
 lady, is made of Irish poplin or moire antique trimmed with velvet 
 of the same shade, in bias folds, velvet buttons, and a head-dress 
 of velvet worn as a diadem, or in whatever shape may be in fash- 
 ion ; gloves of white kid, collar and culFs of fine lace ; jewelry to 
 match the dress or afford a happy contrast, and black satin boots, 
 or boots made of a thick silk, 'the color of the dress, if very dark. 
 Wine color, garnet, black, dark blue, purple (royal), dark green, the 
 shades of brown and fawn are all suitable colors for a dinner-dress. 
 It is often a trial to find the lights lit before the meal is finished, 
 and the dress that was beautiful and becoming by daylight made 
 almost hideous by artificial light ; and it is well to remember in 
 selecting the colors and jewels for a dinner costume, that it may 
 be exposed to both daylight and gas or candle-light. 
 
 EVENING DEESS— HOSTESS. 
 
 A LADY who is in the habit of receiving her friends in the evening 
 will find it necessary to have home-dresses especially adapted for 
 evening wear, as where a parlor is attractive, a host and hostess 
 hospitable, and a pleasant social circle often assembled, the num- 
 ber of chance guests will often swell to quite a goodly number. 
 There is no fabric for winter wear so well adapted to an evening 
 dress as silk, made dressy enough to be becoming, and finished at 
 the throat and wrists by silk em^oidery or fine lace. Yet, when 
 a lady does not always wish to wear so expensive a dress, poplins, 
 or any of the handsome winter fabrics are appropriate, and will 
 bear, for evening wear, a more elaborate style of trimming than 
 would be suitable for street or morning dresses. 
 
 The head-dress is not worn for chance guests, but a ribbon may 
 be twisted in the hair, or, for an old lady, a dress-cap is perfectly 
 appropriate. 
 
 In summer any light, thin fabric is in good taste, and a few 
 natural flowers may be worn in the hair and on the bosom. 
 
EVENING DRESSES-CALLS. 79 
 
 Gloves are never worn for an evening at home, unless the guests 
 are specially invited, in which case the gathering assumes the 
 properties of a party, the rules for dressing at such times being 
 given in another chapter. 
 
 A pretty summer evening-dress for a young person is a white 
 book-muslin, a lawn or organdie, trimmed with puffings of the 
 same, and finished by bands of French embroidery at the throat 
 and wrists ; knots of bright ribbon in the hair and at the throat, 
 and ornaments of polished gold or enamel. 
 
 In Avinter, bright or warm-colored merinoes or worsted goods, 
 silks and poplins trimmed richly, with a neck-tie and hair-ribbons 
 of velvet ribbon, and any jewelry that affords a good match or 
 happy contrast, will make a rich dress for an evening at home, 
 devoted to chance visitors. 
 
 Light, dressy silks, artificial flowers, glittering gems, and very 
 dressy trimmings are not in good taste for a family circle or tran- 
 sient guests. • 
 
 EYENING DRESSES— CALLS. 
 
 The dress for paying an evening call is allowed to be somewhat 
 more elaborate than the home-dress, and for young people, such 
 ornaments as pretty, tasteful hair-ribbons, a rather dressy coiffure, 
 some jewelry, and rather light-colored dresses, are in good taste. 
 The toilet, however, must not be so dressy as it would be for an 
 evening visit by invitation, for it would appear absurd to be in full 
 evening-dress, where only the family circle of the hostess were 
 present. 
 
 Silk of a dark color in winter, finished with lace ruffles or collar 
 and cuffs, ornaments of gold, enamel, or coral, and light ribbons 
 in the hair, or a velvet ribbon head-dress, is a suitable dress in 
 winter for the evening call. In smnmer any of the thin fabrics are 
 in good taste, and a few natural flowers may be worn. 
 
 It is not in good taste, even in warm weather, to pay evening 
 calls in bare neck and arms ; but a pretty effect is produced by 
 lace or muslin, worn as the fashion dictates, over the dress, cut to 
 expose the arms and shoulders. Many pay evening calls with a 
 
80 EVENING DRESSES-SOCIABLE. 
 
 rich opera-cloak for a wrap, but the dress should be simple, or the 
 effect is vulgar. If the call is an impromptu one, the quiet dress 
 suitable for the home circle, will answer, with the addition of an 
 opera-cloak and some pretty, fanciful hood. 
 
 Where an evening call is made by appointment, but no company 
 is expected to meet the visitor, the dress, while it is handsome and 
 appropriate, should never be very gay or elaborate. 
 
 For a married lady, or one somewhat advanced in life, black .silk, 
 richly trimmed, is always an appropriate dress for evening calls, 
 and a dress-cap may be worn with perfect propriety. Dark silks 
 are de rigiicur ; but light ones are not in good taste unless in 
 warm weather, and then thin fabrics of less expensive appearance, 
 are in better taste. Poplins, merinoes, lawns, grenadines, organ- 
 dies, in fact, any of the many fabrics now in fashion, tastefully 
 made and trimmed, are suitable for a evening call. 
 
 Short walking-suits are never in perfectly good taste for a formal 
 call, at an}^ hour ; yet they are sometimes worn for calling, even 
 in the evening. In such cases they should be of handsome mate- 
 rial, finished with fine lace collar and cuffs, broad bracelets of gold, 
 handsome breast-pin and ear-rings, and a full-dress bonnet, unless 
 a hood is worn to be removed during the call — a mixture of dress 
 inappropriate for any well-dressed lady to wear. 
 
 EVENING DEESSES— SOCIABLE. 
 
 The soicable being considered generally a more informal gather- 
 ing of friends than the party proper, less display in dress is gen- 
 erally expected, yet young persons are allowed the exercise of 
 some taste and fancy in the toilet. They are usually meetings 
 where the music, dancing, reading, and other entertainments are 
 impromptu affairs ; although meetings for dramatic readings, 
 charade rehearsals, practising for musical parties or poetical 
 recitations, are all included under the head of the sociable. Yet, 
 an invitation so worded as to imply a sociable, does not call for 
 full-dress, but for what is often more becoming even to young 
 ladies — a dress of rich material made to cover the arms and shoul- 
 ders, yet trimmed to have a dressy appearance. 
 
EVENING DRESSES— THE SOIREE AND BALLROOM. 81 
 
 Silks of every shade, from the lighter neutral tints to the deep 
 blues, garnets and browns are appropriate, yet not those strictly 
 suitable for full-dress. Trimmings may be worn in dressy mate- 
 rials and patterns, and head-dresses of flowers, ribbons, velvets of 
 any style in fashion, are worn. 
 
 Gloves are not de rigueur, although they are sometimes worn of 
 the lighter shades of lavender, fawn, canary, or such tints as will 
 accord well with the dress 
 
 Light silks, cut low in the neck, with short sleeves, and worn with 
 puffed illusion waists to cover the neck and arms, are pretty for 
 the sociable. Dark silks, relieved by white lace, are also appro- 
 priate, and all the thin fabrics worn in summer, cut to cover the 
 neck and arms, are pretty for young persons. 
 
 Some jewelry is also allowable, and the glittering gems are often 
 very effective with dark silks, or thin fabrics of deep color. 
 
 Cloth or lasting gaiters are often worn with this style of dress, 
 but a black kid or satin slipper, full trimmed, is much more ap- 
 propriate and becoming. A black satin boot with high heel is a 
 pretty finish for this partial evening-dress, and they are sometimes 
 trimmed with the prevailing color of the dress. It has been a 
 fashion for young ladies to wear short sleeves, covering the arm 
 partly by a fall of lace from the sleeves, and long black lace mit- 
 tens; these are not worn now, but the effect was generally pretty 
 and becoming ; they may again be worn. 
 
 EVENING DEESSES~THE SOIEEE AND BALL- 
 EOOM. 
 
 The soiree, or party par excellence, is an occasion that calls for 
 full evening-dress, being, next the ball, the most full dress occasion 
 society exacts. Indeed, the difference between the dress for a 
 large evening party and the b?.ll-dress is often so very trifling, that 
 one chapter will suffice for both. 
 
 For evening parties uncut velvet is a superb material for ladies 
 who are not very young, and cut velvet is also appropriate. Moire 
 antique, heavy silks of every color, and rich satins, are all appro- 
 
82 EVENING DRESSES— THE SOIREE AND BALL-ROOM. 
 
 priate for evening-dresses. For young ladies, however, tliin mate- 
 rials are far more becoming than these richer fabrics. Tulle, plain 
 and embroidered, worn over silk, tarletan, muslin, grenadine, 
 barege, silk tissue, crape, lace, illusion, and other thin fabrics, the 
 names and varieties of which change every season, are all becom- 
 ing for evening-dresses, and artificial flowers and jewels are per- 
 fectly appropriate. As a rule, youth is more becomingly arrayed 
 in simple costume than in a profusion of ornaments, but matrons 
 may wear glittering stones and rich fabrics. 
 
 Thin materials must be trimmed with lace, and artificial flowers 
 are used for bouquet de corsuffc, head-dress, loops for double skirt, 
 and various other forms of ornament. Necklaces are a form of 
 jewelry only suitable for full dress, when the throat and shoulders 
 are uncovered. 
 
 Yet, even in the full dress requisite for evening parties, the rule 
 should be to dress well, becomingly, and appropriately, but not 
 obtrusively, and, above all, not gaudily, or too much. It is a crime 
 against good taste to be too much in excess of the company, yet 
 care must be bestowed upon the costume, the hostess expects it, 
 and the guests observe its neglect. It is the test of good taste to 
 be in the foremost rank of guests for appropriate dress, but never 
 in advance of the others. 
 
 It is a proof of superior taste that in selection of colors, as well 
 as in richness of material and style, your dress should suit the 
 place as well as the occasion. This is a point not often considered, 
 but a little attention to it would be amply repaid. 
 
 You probably know the character of the room, the quality of 
 the lights, the color and decoration of the walls, the nature of the 
 furniture, all these will have their influence on the color of your 
 dress. A little consideration and pre-arrangement will enable you 
 to avoid utterly discordant colors, or to avail yourself of any 
 favorable peculiarity ; and the trial is surely worth making. 
 
 Pleasure will be imparted as well as received if the experiment 
 succeeds, and you may attain a quiet reputation for taste by this 
 exercise of artistic rules in your evening-dresses for the parties of 
 your friends. Of course you must also observe the rules given in 
 this volume for the colors suitable to your peculiar complexion, 
 hair, and eyes, and in the selection of materials consult also what 
 will be becoming to your figure. A slight little lady, very young, 
 
EVENING DRESSES— THE SOIREE AND BALL-ROOM. 83 
 
 looks as absurd in velvet as a stout, middle-aged matron would in 
 seven or eight skirts of tarletan. 
 
 Tarletan and tulle, indeed, are only suitable for young ladies, 
 and velvet and satin belong more strictly to the middle-aged. Silk 
 may be v/orn by either, the color being more the test of good taste 
 than the material itself. 
 
 What is suitable for full evening-dress depends also upon the 
 position of the wearer. In the highest society, and on especial 
 occasions splendor of costume is a necessary part of the festival. 
 
 For ordinary full-dress, however, richness of style is essential 
 and becoming, but of the degree, expense, and showiness, each 
 lady must judge for herself. We would say to the young, be 
 bright, cheerful, and, above all, as graceful in style as you can, 
 yet observe simplicity. Beauty does not need expensive dress to 
 enhance it, and homeliness was never hidden by rich lace or 
 jewelry. 
 
 The colors of the dress itself should be comparatively low in 
 tone, but in trimmings more play may be given to fancy. Only in 
 colors, as in style, keep rather within the fashion, and do not be 
 led by the prevailing example to adopt what is decidedly unsuit- 
 able in color to your complexion or general appearance. We should 
 have said, cultivate purity of style and taste ; but the tide of cus- 
 tom to-day is so strongly set against us, that our advice would be 
 utterly useless. Yet let a lady, in a group of others dressed in the 
 present fashions, array herself in a simple purity of style, and see 
 if the artistic taste is not gratified by her observers. 
 
 Ladies of mature years and settled position, will dress according 
 to their position, and are allowed a more expensive and rich style 
 than is aj^propriate for the very young. At the same time, their 
 fancy must be allowed less play, and, above all, any eccentricities, 
 such as may be forgiven to a dashing girl, must be avoided by a 
 matron. They must dress exactly as propriety requires if they 
 would avoid censure, and take care to not stop short of the line, or 
 go far beyond it. 
 
 Ladies who have passed the age of girlhood affect for some time 
 the delicate and tender hues and colors, rather than the stronger 
 ones, for which the taste is more apt to be developed later in life. 
 
 Yery attractive and winning the charming young wives and 
 maidens appear in these soft, subdued colors ; but these tender 
 
8-1 EVENIXG DRESSES— THE SOIREE AND BALL-ROOM. 
 
 tints — the silvery grays, pale blues, faint greens, delicate lilacs, soft 
 browns, need, as we have many times repeated, to be selected with 
 careful regard to the complexion, and to be treated with a degree 
 of tact and refinement api^roaching to artistic skill, in order to 
 affect a completely harmonious and satisfactory arrangement. 
 
 For matrons' evening-dress, the deep, rich, warm colors, Avhether 
 brilliant or sombre in tone, if well chosen and judiciously harmon- 
 ized, have an air of distinction, and are verv conducive to a noble 
 dignified appearance ; but they require to bo treated with breadth 
 liberahty and simplicity. 
 
 Generally it should be remembered that artificial light has the 
 effect of augmenting the richness of warm colors, detracting from 
 the splendor of cool colors, and utterly destroying the efiect of 
 some. All evening dresses, therefore, should be selected by 
 artificial light, and their effect on the wearer carefully tested by 
 the same light, otherwise tints pretty and becoming by da.\light> 
 will be found to have a faded hue, and often impart a ghastly pal- 
 lor to the face by gas or candle-light. With the warm colors, 
 artificial light appears to extend and diffuse the rich harmony, thus 
 serving to produce in dress an effect answering in some degree to 
 that suffused, mellow glow Vvhich is so characteristic of the best 
 Tenetian paintings, and which is distinctive of the great colorist, 
 Reynolds, as well as of Titian and Glorgione. Wax candles pro- 
 duce this mellowing influence much more fully than gas light, and 
 hence the greater richness of appearance so constantly noted in 
 dress when seen by candle light instead of gas light, notwithstand- 
 ing the superior brilliancy and lustre of the latter. In this warm 
 harmony, points of intense color, such as are afforded by gems, 
 especially the ruby, the carbuncle the sapphire and the emerald, 
 are invaluable as points or lines of concentration or of contrast ; 
 so, for a different effect, are the flash and sparkle of the diamond, 
 the pale, iridescent lustre of the opal, and the tender glory of the 
 pearl. 
 
 With regard to the ball-dress proper. Fashion is so arbitrary that 
 but little is left for general observations. The lightest fabrics, 
 brightest tints, and most elaborate trimmings are all not only 
 allowable, but absolutely looked for, in the ball-dress. All hero 
 should be light and fanciful. Sad, sombre colors are as much out 
 of place in a ball-room, as sad, gloomy faces would be 5 but dis- 
 
EVENING DRESSES— THE OPERA. 85 
 
 cord in colors is also as muca to be avoided as frowns on tlie 
 countenance. 
 
 Muslin, tulle and tarletan, lace and illusion of pure white, will 
 admit of great variety of trimming, of head-dress and jewelry ; 
 scarlet and pink ara very effective, and flowers of white with green 
 leaves are also pretty. With heavier material, even if white, a 
 heavier style of ornament is better than with thinner fabrics. Silks 
 and satins will carry off more jewelry than lace or tulle. 
 
 If colored silk is worn under thin, white fabrics, the trimmings 
 must take their tone from that color, and be lighter in. tint, or the 
 silk will look dulled and faded. 
 
 White kid gloves and white satin boots or slippers must be 
 always worn with a ball-dress, unless the dress itself is of black 
 lace, worn over black or colored silk, when black satin boots or 
 slippers are necessary. It is sometimes fashionable to wear satin 
 boots of the prevailing color of the dress, but they are not gen- 
 erally becoming to the foot, and never so stylish in appearance as 
 black or white. Slippers may, however, be trimmed to match the 
 dress. 
 
 EVENING DEESSES— THE OPEEA. 
 
 In dressing for the opera a lady must be governed very much, 
 if not entirely, by the fashion of the city, as the rules are different 
 in different places. In some of the large cities, where a palatial 
 .building, profusely decorated, is built for an "Academy of Music," 
 the fairer portion of an audience at the opera must appear in full 
 evening-dress, or, if a bonnet is worn, it must be of the lightest, 
 airiest fabric and construction— an opera bonnet, in fact. 
 
 It is certainly a great addition to the beauty of an audience to 
 have the ladies in full-dress, and the opera cloak is often an ad- 
 dition of much elegance, making a stylish finish to the toilet. 
 Thin dresses, although often worn, must be crushed in an opera 
 house, and are not so suitable as silks of light color, appropriately 
 trimmed, and with soft lace round the shoulders and arms. The 
 hair should be dressed as for a large evening party, and artificial 
 flowers, jewels, feathers, ribbons, or any style of head-dress pe- 
 
86 EVENING DRES.^ES—THE OPERA. 
 
 culiar to the fashion may be worn. It does not look well to wear 
 a dressy hood in an opera house ; if the fair spectator is afraid of 
 having her head uncovered, it is more elegant to wear an opera 
 bonnet. This is a very light, dressy affair, generally of lace or 
 crape, with exquisite flowers for trimming, but if a more sub- 
 stantial bonnet is required, white velvet, cut or uncut, with velvet 
 flowers, or liglit feathers, forms an appropriate substitute. 
 
 The opera cloak is generally of white, either richly embroidered 
 or trimmed, but colors are also worn, but must be managed care- 
 fully, to avoid a discordant contrast with other portions of the 
 dress. White is the most dressy, as well as appropriate for all 
 dresses. The Roman stripe is very rich in effect when worn with 
 a black velvet or lace dress, or with a dress of pure white, but it 
 deadens the effect of neutral tints, and harmonizes but seldom 
 with any bright color. White ermine capes are often worn as 
 opera cloaks, and are very rich in effect ; they will bear a lining 
 of colored silk, but are more stylish lined with v/hite satin, and 
 finished with heavy white cord and tassels. If full-dress is worn, 
 the hair must be dressed ; if a bonnet, the arms and neck should 
 be covered. Light evening silks, with collar and cuffs of rich 
 lace, look well with an opera bonnet. 
 
 Jewelry must be worn according to the dress, but more is allow- 
 able than on most occasions, and the glittering gems are very 
 effective in the brilliant light of a superb opera house. White kid 
 gloves are de rigueur. 
 
 It is true that extravagance and showiness are always to be con- 
 demned, yet some attention to display is always allowable in the 
 opera-dress. Splendor of material, richness of color, and care iu 
 detail, are in keeping with the occasion. Well-dressed as well as 
 handsome ladies are looked for in the audience of an opera, and it 
 is out of harmony with the scene and surroundings to see sombre 
 draperies, heavy bonnets, and dull faces. Ladies are supposed to 
 be seen, as well as to see, and are often the most beautiful part of 
 the display. They should not spoil the beauty of the auditorium 
 by wrapping themselves in cloaks or shawls. 
 
 We have said that white kid gloves must be worn, but delicately 
 tinted ones, if matching or harmonizing well with the dress, may 
 sometimes be substituted. 
 
 White lace shawls form an elegant finish to a handsome opera 
 
EVENING DRESSES— THE OPERA. 87 
 
 toilet, and black ones may also be worn, although not so appro- 
 priate as white. 
 
 It is not an easy matter to arrange an opera toilet in harmony 
 with its surroundings. Pure white or black may bear any con- 
 tact, but a dress of most exquisite taste in itself, of faultless color- 
 ing and harmonious effect, may be utterly ruined by proximity to 
 another of discordant effect, in the next seat. Pink, of rosy 
 delicacy of tint, will be spoiled by the neighborhood of a scarlet 
 opera cloak ; blue may find itself shoulder to shoulder with a 
 deeper shade of the same color, that makes it look faded and dull ; 
 we could multiply similar cases. 
 
 Gold is an effective trimming for portions of an opera dress, 
 but rather gaudy for most tastes. It may be worn in the head- 
 dress, as in gold grapes against pale green leaves, or as an em- 
 broidery for a cloak, but it requires dainty handling, or the effect 
 is only vulgar. It has a brilliant effect with scarlet, and some of 
 the deeper shades of green and blue. 
 
 Orange is tlio only color of the yellow tinge that looks well in 
 an opera dress, and is difficult to manage ; it needs a profusion of 
 black lace to enhance its effect, and will not bear much white. In 
 rich silk or satin, with black lace as a cloak, and black velvet in 
 the hair, it is effective, and, if judiciously managed, small quan- 
 tities of crimson may be added, as a few flowers in the head- 
 dress, or carbuncles or rubies in the jewelry. It requires, how- 
 ever, a very gorgeous style of beauty to endure such a combination 
 as is here described, but we have seen brunettes so dressed with 
 superb effect. 
 
 Blue is not an effective color for an opera dress ; it does not 
 bear artificial light well, and is apt to be ruined by the surround- 
 ings of decoration, and contrast with more brilliant dresses. 
 
 Green is also difiicult to manage, but may be worn with gold, 
 
 Purple is a superb opera color for a middle-aged lady, and with 
 a profusion of black lace, and a bonnet or head-dress of black 
 lace, is very effective. It will bear ornaments of gold, and dia- 
 monds have a regal richness with purple velvet. 
 
 The neutral tints are difficult to manage in all evening dresses, 
 and require strong points of color to make them becoming, yet, 
 when happily chosen, well relieved, and worn with white or black 
 lac.?, they are very elegant and stylish in appearance. 
 
38 EVENING DRESSES— CONCERT. 
 
 Pink is a good opera color, and will bear white or black in con- 
 trast, but no other color. 
 
 The effect of an opera-dress depends much upon the details of 
 its arrangement ; the fan, the lorgnette, the daintily-embroidered 
 or lace handkerchief, all have their weight, and must be perfect 
 to be effective. There is no occasion when appearance alone is of 
 so much value to a lady. Here she is to be looked at, criticised 
 or admired, as the case may be, but her other charms are lost. 
 She may have brilhant conversational powers to draw attention 
 from defects in appearance at the soiree ; she may be a musical 
 genius, a graceful dancer, an artist, but at the opera she is simply 
 a pretty or unsightly object to be gazed at with all the glare of a 
 hundred jets of gas striking upon her, and as many opera-glasses 
 ready to bring out all the beauties and imperfections of her ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 EVENING DEESSES— OONCEET. 
 
 The usual dress for a concert in a large city, is somewhat less 
 rich and splendid than that worn at the opera. The bonnet is 
 often worn, and rich shawls are perfectly appropriate ; yet the 
 opera-cloak is a handsome concert-wrap. The opportunity for the 
 display of full-dress is not so good on the benches of a concert- 
 hall, as in the auditorium of the opera-house, as there are but few 
 seated to command the faces of the entire audience. 
 
 Silk is the most appropriate material for a concert-dress, and 
 should cover the arms and neck. If the silk is cut to expose them, 
 a lace or mull waist of the prevailing fashion should cover them. 
 The collar and cuffs should be of rich lace, and handsome jewelry 
 is in good taste. If the bonnet is worn, it should be light and 
 dressy. A costly shawl, a lace shawl, a velvet cloak, or an opera- 
 cloak are all suitable concert-warps. 
 
 Light or white kid gloves must be worn, aiid bracelets composed 
 of a broad band of gold are handsome as a finish. 
 
 The back of the head being really the most conspicuous in a 
 concert-room, the coiffure may, with good taste, be decorated with 
 flowers or ribbons. 
 
 As in the opera-dress, the fan, handkerchief, bouquet, and lorg- 
 
EVENING DRESSES— CONCERT. 89 
 
 natte are all to be considered in the costume worn at a concert. A 
 fan of color discordant with the prevailing color of the dress, will 
 destroy the beauty of a most elaborate toilet ; and a pair of ill- 
 fitting or ill-matched gloves will be quite as bad. 
 
 It is allowable, for a cloak made for a concert-wrap, to be some- 
 what longer than an opera-cloak, and it is often kept over the 
 shoulders during the evening, as the room is more liable io be 
 exposed to cold air than the opera-house. Some ladies, indeed, 
 depend entirely upon the bonnet and cloak for an effective costume, 
 wearing a plain dress ; but this is a mistake, as it prevents the re- 
 moval of the cloak, if the room becomes very close and oppressive. 
 
 Fans for evening use are now furnished in such exquisite taste 
 and variety, that it seems almost superfluous to mention them ; 
 yet they are so often carried, to the utter ruin of the dress, that 
 we venture a word. If the purse will not allow of a fan for each 
 toilet, let a lady provide one of white — feathers are the hand- 
 somest — and one of black lace over black silk. The first is adapted 
 to any light evening-dress, while the latter will better suit the 
 warmer colors or more sober hues. A dress of black velvet or 
 lace is indeed often improved by a fan of white or gay-colored 
 feathers ; but the taste that will guide the whole dress should also 
 be exercised in the selection of tliis ornament. It is often a valu- 
 able as well as a handsome addition to a lady's wardrobe, and can 
 scarcely bo dispensed with in an evening toilet. 
 
 Natural flowers are very often worn in a dress for a concert, and 
 ivy leaves are very beautiful and becoming to some complexions. 
 The former should always have the stems dipped for about half an 
 inch in hot sealing-wax before being twisted in the hair, and the 
 latter are improved by being dipped in a solution of alum, and dried 
 before using. Bouquets of natural flowers are always an exquisite 
 add'tion to an evening-dress, but must accord with its prevailing 
 tint. A rose-pink dress will not bear a bouquet of scarlet gerani- 
 ums, and there are other contrasts quite as bad. A bouquet should 
 harmonize perfectly, and as there are no dull flowers, there must 
 always be a cheerful effect produced hj an artistically arranged 
 bouquet. A very simple dress may be made choice and beautiful 
 by flowers in the hair, on the bosom, and in the bouquet alike. 
 
 A very beautiful effect was produced in a dress of simple white 
 tarletan by a wreath, bouquet, bouquet de corsage, and sleeve-knots 
 
90 EVENING DRESSES— THEATRE. 
 
 of pansies. The flowers in the hair and on the dress were artificial, 
 but so perfect an imitation that they bore the contact with natural 
 flowers in the bouquet undetected. 
 
 The same risk of contact with dresses ruinous to your own 
 must be endured in the concert as in tlie opera, and glaring con- 
 trasts must be skillfully avoided in the dresses of several ladies 
 of the same party. A number of ladies may arrange a group of 
 dresses to be as harmonious and perfect as a bouquet of choice 
 flowers, but it is a point too Httle considered. Jennie will wear 
 her hideous plaid silk if it utterly annihilates Sarah's exquisite 
 toilet, and Mary's dreadful green and gold opera-cloak is remorse- 
 lessly donned" if Julia's dress faints and fades by its side. 
 
 EVENING DEESSES— THEATEE. 
 
 The dress for the theatre, excepting on some especial occasion, 
 when full-dress is worn, is generally that worn for the promenadfe. 
 The most convenient wrap, however, is a handsome shawl, or a 
 cloak that can be loosened and thrown aside if the heat becomes 
 oppressive. The usual dress-bonnet for the street is perfectly ap- 
 propriate, and even the hat is sometimes worn, and has the advan- 
 tage of lightness and becomingness. 
 
 "White kid gloves are not usually worn in the theatre, but kid is 
 the most appropriate, the color being governed by the dress ; dark 
 kid is perfectly appropriate if it accords with the cloak and bon- 
 net, though the light shades of canary, lavender, mauve, and 
 tourtelle are all suitable, even with a dark bonnet and cloak. 
 
 Although in some cities it is the custom to visit the theatre with 
 the hair dressed and the head uncovered, it is not generally con- 
 sidered in good taste to do so. " A lady," says a modern writer, 
 " goes to the opera to be seen, but to the theatre to see." Any 
 attempt at display in the box of a theatre is, therefore, in bad 
 taste, and should be avoided. Quiet colors, and a modest arrange- 
 ment of the dress, are always to be desired, but never more so 
 than in a place of public amusement when full-dress is not ex- 
 pected. 
 
 Yet there is a propriety to be observed in this dress, and it is 
 
SEA-SIDE DRESSES. 91 
 
 one frequent! 3' violated. We refer to the fashion of wearing a 
 worsted knit hood on the hair during the entire evening. Hoods 
 of any kind are essentially street wear, for protection from the 
 cold only, and are no more appropriate in the theatre than they 
 would be on the floor of a ball-room. The proper covering for 
 the hair is a bonnet or a hat, and a hood is in as bad taste as a 
 night-cap. 
 
 The same objection extends to a waterproof cloak ; if the even- 
 ing is stormy, the cloak should be worn over a dress cloak or 
 shawl, and thrown off during the evening. A lady who wishes to 
 preserve her gloves and dress fresh at the close of the perform- 
 ance, must avoid handling the play-bills, which leave unsightly 
 and indelible stains. 
 
 SEA-SIDE DEESSES. 
 
 ^EA-siDE dresses are generally admitted to allow of more free- 
 dom of coloring than those worn within the close limits of a city, 
 or in the country. 
 
 For the drive or promenade at the sea-shore, dresses should be 
 chosen of material and color that will not be injured by the sea 
 air or the spray, and many of the loveliest tints are thus made 
 useless. Hats are of such infinite variety in material and shape, 
 that it is a hopeless task to attempt to ofter any comment upon 
 them. They should, however, always be broad-brimmed, and are 
 more useful if made of a fine muslin drawn over a frame, as they 
 can then be wafthed, and are freshened whenever soiled or spotted. 
 Straw soon becomes limp in sea air, and lace loses its beauty very 
 rapidly. 
 
 Evening-dresses are tlfb same as are worn upon occasions of the 
 same nature elsewhere. 
 
 Bathing-dresses should be made of fine flannel, and trimmed 
 with a worsted braid of fast colors. The best color is a soft gray, 
 which does not fade so soon as higher colors, and has always as 
 elegant an appearance as this most unbecoming dress can have. 
 The best style is a loose waist, belted in, with a skirt falling about 
 half-way between the knee and the ankle, and made quite full. 
 Turkish trousers, with a band at the ankle, and a ruffle below it ; 
 
92 MOURNING. 
 
 an oilskin cap covering the hair entirely, as salt water is injurious 
 to it, and socks of soft merino the same color as the dress. Any 
 attempt at display in a bathing-dress is absurd in the extreme, 
 and although they are sometimes made of becoming material and 
 fashion, they are unsightly enough after two or three encounters 
 with the waves. 
 
 There is a fine species of grass-cloth that has been used for 
 bathing-dresses, that will look well for a few weeks, but rarely 
 longer. While white, this is pretty trimmed with gay-colored 
 worsted braid. Flannel, however, is preferable, as it looks well, 
 wears well, and is the most comfortable and healthy material for 
 the purpose. 
 
 It is at the watering-places and the sea-side that the extrava- 
 gencies of fashion assume their most monstrous forms and fancies. 
 
 Does the Grecian bend rage 1 look at Saratoga belles for the 
 monstrosity in its full hideous effect ; do chignons rule 1 where 
 will they be found so immense as at Newport ? are little hats in 
 fashion 1 visit either place to find them almost invisible, and go 
 for any absurdity of capricious fashion to the watering place 
 where the liaut ton of the season congregate. It were, therefore, 
 useless in the limits of our little volume to attempt to give any 
 rules for sea-side dresses. General ones are given in other portions 
 of the book, and the only guide further is the fashion magazine of 
 the day. 
 
 When we hear of velvet dresses buttoned from the throat to the 
 feet with diamond studs ; of flounces of Honiton caught with 
 sprays of i)ure pearl flowers and leaves ; of hats composed of lace 
 spangled with pulverized jewels, we can only sigh over the folly 
 of the day and age, and think a moment of the sisters starving in 
 foul rags in dim cellars, or dying of cold in bleak garrets. 
 
 MOUENING. 
 
 It is difiicult to establish rules for a dress upon which there is 
 such a diversity of opinion as that worn by persons in mourning. 
 It is w^orn by some a very long time for even a distant relative, and 
 by others but a few months for a parent or a child. There is 
 
MOURNING. 93 
 
 : really no rule, either for the closeness of the dress or for the 
 1 length of time it may be worn ; but there are rules for the proper 
 i degrees of first, second, deep, or half mourning. 
 I For deep mourning, nothing but black is worn, unless the wearer 
 ! is a widow, when the bonnet-cap is of white tarletan, in the form 
 \ known as widow's- cap. The collar and cuffs must be of plain 
 I black crape, and the only trimming allowable is black crape placed 
 I in folds upon the dress. Imperial serges, bombazine, delaine, 
 I barege, and merino are all suitable materials for the deepest 
 I mourning. 
 
 The long shawl of black cashmere, or a square shawl of black 
 barege, with a broad crape border, may be worn, if the street-suit 
 is not made en suite, in which case a sacque of the same material 
 as the dress, bound with crape, may be worn. The bonnet must 
 be of plain black crape, and the veil of crape or barege. Black 
 kid gloves, and in winter dark furs, may be worn in the deepest 
 mourning. No ornaments, excepting those worn to fasten the 
 collar, cuffs, or belt,. are allowable, and those must be of jet. 
 
 For travelling-dresses in mourning, a heavy English serge is 
 most serviceable, and it is allowable to wear a large linen cape, and 
 a brown or green barege veil for the deepest mourning in travel- 
 ling, since no dress is so disfigured by the dust of travel as close 
 black. 
 
 Empress cloth and bombazine-finish alpacas are worn in deep 
 mourning, but not the lustrous alpaca. A handsome delaine is 
 also serviceable and proper material far deep black. 
 
 The next class of mourning is to substitute white linen collar 
 and cuffs for those of black crape, a white facing for the bonnet, 
 and a veil of net or tulle for the crape one, or a short crape veil 
 for a long one. The bonnet may be trimmed with crape or 
 black ribbon, but only a very slight trimming is appropriate. 
 Jewelry of jet alone. Lustrous alpacas may now be worn, trim- 
 med with crape or folds of the same material. 
 
 For the next stage of mourning, dresses are worn of black and 
 white, of solid purple and solid gray, or of a combination of black, 
 white and purple, or black, white and gray. A purple dress, how- 
 ever, is rather light mourning. 
 
 A bonnet of black silk, trimmed with crape, of black straw, or 
 Neapohtan, with ribbon and crape trimmings, are suitable, and a 
 
94 MOURNING. 
 
 few crape flowers are also worn with tliis stage of mourning. 
 Quillings and ruches of silk are worn with lustrous alpacas as 
 trimmings. 
 
 Ilalf-mourning foulards are a most serviceable dress for light 
 mourning, especially for morning-dresses. They can be hand- 
 somely made and trimmed for walking-suits, and if made for wrap- 
 pers will wash well. 
 
 For a still lighter mourning, light grays and white with black 
 trimmings may be worn, and in the bonnet different ^shades of 
 lilac, white, and just a trifle of black. Black lace bonnets with 
 white or violet flowers, are very elegant in this light mourning. 
 The various mourning silks are now suitable, and crape is dis- 
 carded for a trimming, lighter material being used. Lace or 
 embroidered collars and cuffs, lace shawls and jet jewelry, relieved 
 by setting of gold, is in perfectly good taste. This light mourning 
 is usually a most elegant and universally becoming dress. It 
 admits of as great variety in style and trimming as colors, while 
 the subdued tints can never outrage the most refined taste. It is 
 necessary, however, to remember that the frequent contact of black 
 and white is often injurious to the latter, and care is necessary to 
 preserve the purity of the delicate laces or ribbons, Avhich, to be in 
 exquisite taste, must be of snowy appearance. 
 
 It is especially to be recommended to buy only the best materials 
 for mourning-dresses. Poor crapes or woolens in black, wear mis- 
 erably, and, although the finest black goods are ex[)ensive, they 
 are the only ones worth making or wearing. Rusty, faded mourn- 
 ing is as shabby a dress as can be worn, while there is always a 
 simple elegance in good mourning. 
 
 Ladies who are in mourning are often yqvj much annoyed by 
 finding their arms and shoulders dyed by the garments worn, and 
 which often resists successfully the most lavish use of soap and 
 water. A simple remedy is at every lady's command, but must be 
 carefully marked and kept, as it is poisonous. Mix half an ounce 
 of cream of tartar, and half an ounce of oxalic acid, grinding 
 them together in a mortar. It is best to have them powdered and 
 mixed by the druggist from whom they are purchased. Keep the 
 mixtuie in a covered jar. Wet the stains on the skin with warm 
 water, and while wet rub on a little of the mixture ; wash off 
 immediatelij with clear water, and then wash with sonp and water, 
 
MOURNING. 95 
 
 when the stains will disappear. This mixture will remove ink 
 from the skin and from white clothes, but m.ust be kept from 
 children, as it is a poison. 
 
 A few rules taken from a work on good society, recently pub- 
 lished in Paris, will conclude this chapter. 
 
 " The deepest mourning is that worn by a widow for her hus- 
 band ; it is worn for two years, sometimes longer Widows' mourn- 
 ing, for the first year, consists of solid black woolen goods, collar 
 and cuffs of folded, untrimmed crape, a simple crape bonnet, and 
 a long, thick black crape veil. The second year, silk trimmed 
 with crape, black lace collar and cuffs, and a shorter veil may be 
 worn, and in the last six months gray violet and white are per- 
 mitted. A widow should wear the hair perfectly plain, if she does 
 not wear a cap, and should always wear a bonnet, never a hat. 
 
 " The mourning for a father or mother is worn for one year. The 
 first six months the proper dress is of solid black woolen goods, 
 trimmed with crape, black crape bonnet with black crape facings 
 and black strings, black crape veil, collar and cuffs of black crape. 
 Three months black silk with crape trimming, white or black lace 
 collar and cuffs, veil of tulle, and white bonnet facings, and the 
 last three months in gray, purple, and violet. 
 
 " Mourning worn for a child is the same as that worn for a 
 parent. 
 
 " Mourning for a grand-parent is worn for six months ; three 
 months black woolen goods, white collar and cuffs, short crape 
 veil and bonnet of crape, trimmed with black silk or ribbon ; six 
 weeks in black silk trimmed with crape, lace collar and cuffs, short 
 tulle veil ; and six weeks in gi'ay, purple, white and violet, 
 
 " Mourning worn for a friend who leaves you an inheritance is 
 the same as that worn for a grand-parent. 
 
 " Mourning for a brother or sister is worn six months ; two 
 months in solid black trimmed with crape, white linen collar and 
 cuffs, bonnet of black with white facing and black strings ; two 
 months in black silk, with white lace collar and cuffs ; and two 
 months in gray, purple, white and violet. 
 
 " Mourning for an uncle or aunt is worn for three months, and is 
 the second mourning named above — tulle, white linen and white 
 bonnet-facings being worn at once. For a nephew or niece, the 
 same is worn for the same lens[th of time. 
 
96 HOW TO MAKE A DKESS. 
 
 " The deepest mourning excludes kid gloves ; they should be of 
 cloth, silk, or thread, and no jewelry is permitted during the first 
 month of close mourning. Embroidery, jet trimmings, puffs piaita, 
 in fact trimming of any kind is forbidden in deep mourning, but 
 worn when it is lightened. 
 
 "Mourning handkerchiefs should be of very sheer fine linen, 
 with a border of black very wide for close mourning, narrower as 
 the black is lightened. 
 
 " Mom-ning silks should be perfectly lustreless, and the ribbons 
 worn, without any gloss. 
 
 '• Ladies invited to funeral ceremonies should always wear a 
 black dress, even if they are not in mourning, and it is bad taste 
 to appear with a gay bonnet or shawl, as if for a festive occasion. 
 
 " The mourning for children under twelve years of age, is white 
 in summer, and gray in winter, with black trimmings, belt, sleeve- 
 ribbons, and bonnet ribbons." 
 
 HOW TO MAKE A DEESS. 
 
 To make a dress handsomely, well-fitting, and perfect in every 
 respect, is so important an addition to the art of dressing well, 
 that this chapter needs no apology for its insertion. It is one of 
 the advantages that women possess over the stronger sex, that 
 they can, in an emergency, dispense with the assistance of the 
 milliner, dressmaker, and seamstress. In such emergencies it is 
 no small advantage to a lady to be able to cut and make a dress, 
 although some experience and skill are necessary for a perfect 
 success. 
 
 The first rule for dressmaking is to have all the materials re- 
 quired ready^ before the sewing is commenced ; the sewing-silk 
 should be neatly wound, the body-lining ready, hooks and eyes, 
 stifi" facing-muslin, sleeve-finings, skirt-fining, cord, trimming, but- 
 tons, whalebones, skirt-braid, cotton, wadding, and all requisite 
 sewing implements at hand. 
 
 Measure off" first the breadths of the skirt, being careful to allow 
 a strong turning top and bottom. Then pin or tack the breadths 
 
HO TV TO MAKE A DEESS. 97 
 
 together, and if gored, be careful that the gores are even, and the 
 sweep of the skirt falls exactly in the centre of the back breadth. 
 Be careful that no breadth is turned wrong side out, or with the 
 pattern upside down. You must allow in the gored skirt for the 
 stretching of the cut edge more than the selvage, or the work will 
 pucker. 
 
 In a plain skirt, begin your run at the bottom, that any uneven- 
 ness may come at the top, but in a gored skirt you must begin at 
 the top, and let the difference, if there is any, come at the bottom. 
 In case of a cut edge and a selvage coming together, however, the 
 selvage must be held uppermost, and notched here and there to 
 prevent puckers. 
 » As a gored skirt hangs lower in the centre of the breadths than 
 on the edges, the first turning of the hem must allow for that 
 difference, and be laid deeper where it would otherwise droop. It 
 is also necessary to baste the turning of a gored skirt carefully, 
 and also to baste down the facing, as it will be likely to stretch at 
 the top of the hem or facing. The fullness at the top must be 
 held in evenly, or it will make an awkward fold at the seams. 
 
 It is important to make all the fastenings of a dress very secure, 
 as there is generally a severe strain upon all of them. The 
 pocket-hole, placket, arm-holes, waist-binding, every part, indeed, 
 must be firmly and neatly secured against danger of ripping. It 
 is a sure sign of slovenly dressmaking when the sleeves rip from 
 the arm-holes, or a pocket falls out after any unusual weight being 
 placed in it. 
 
 After the skirt is cut and basted, the sleeves are the next part 
 to cut. It is necessary to hav-e a paper pattern exactly as you 
 wish to cut the sleeve ; double the lining, and Cut it accurately by 
 this pattern, leaving a half inch all round for seams. It is better 
 always to cut the lining double, as you thus cut both sleeves at 
 once, and avoid all danger of getting one larger than the other. 
 Next double the material of the dress, and cut it by the lining, 
 laying the selvage to the straight length of the pattern. 
 
 When skirt and sleeves are cut, the most diflScult part of the 
 dressmaking must be undertaken, namely, to get an accurately 
 fitted waist Take a piece of thin but strong paper, and fold one 
 corner the length of the front, pinning it to the corset. Spread 
 the paper very smoothly across the bust to the shoulder, and fold 
 
98 sow TO MAKE A DRESS. 
 
 it to fit the figure exactly ; cut away round the arm, and draw it 
 smoothly under it, then cut again to the waist, allowing fullness 
 enough for darts, and the width of the seams. Another piece of 
 paper must be pinned now to the back, and fitted to meet the 
 front. This being half the body, you have only to fold the lining 
 so as to cut each back double, to get the back and each front for 
 the front. In cutting the material, however, it is best to baste the 
 lining down, and be careful to allow for the hems on each side of 
 the front. It is generally preferable to cut away the darts, but if 
 very narrow they may be left. 
 
 The back will generally fit better if side-bodies are put in, in- 
 stead of cutting it all in one piece. As soon as the whole is cut, 
 baste it together and try it on, wrong side outward, pinning th» 
 seams, the darts, and the side-bodies to fit the figure, and altering 
 the bastings to suit the measurement. 
 
 Having cut and basted your dress, the next step is to put it 
 neatly together. First run the breadths of the skirt, making it 
 full or narrow, short or long, according to the fashion. Run the 
 seams very evenly, pinning the end to a stationary pincushion to 
 prevent puckering. If the skirt is hned, it will hang better if the 
 lining is the same width as the material, and run in with it at each 
 breadth. Cut even at the top and bottom, and whip thickly. 
 Next put on the facing, if the skirt is not lined, or, if lined, put 
 on the stiff facing at the bottom, and hem to the lining, being 
 careful that no stitches show through on the right side ; if not 
 lined, the facing had better be notched at the top, and run down. 
 Be careful in running your seams to leave the space for the pocket 
 and the placket slit. Hem the latter, and lay the upper hem over 
 the lower, stitching it firmly at the bottom. Next put on the skirt 
 braid, and put in the pocket. If you trim with flounces, cut them 
 always crosswise of the material, or they will not hang gracefully. 
 Each breadth must be halved and quartered. Run in a strong 
 cord at the top, and divide the fullness evenly before drawing the 
 cord, and stitching the flounce down. If you wish a ruflle above 
 the cord, run it into a tape casing, as much below the top as you 
 wish the width of the ruffle. Box-plaits, ruffles, indeed all kinds 
 of trimming made of the material, must be carefully measured 
 and cut out before the skirt is put together. If trimming of dif- 
 
now TO MAKE A DRFSS. 99 
 
 ferent material is used, the prevailing fashion must govern the 
 choice and manner of putting it on. 
 
 The sleeves must be made next. If there are two seams, run a 
 cord along the upper one, covered with the material, and sew 
 down on the outside. Cord at the wrist, and turn the lining inside 
 to conceal ihe seam. Stitch the long seams together, hnmg and 
 material at the same time, if it is practicable. Always trim the 
 sleeves before putting them into the arm-hole, and where it can 
 be done, before stitching up the inside seam. 
 
 Next, stitch together the waist as it is basted, putting a covered 
 cord round the arm-holes, and on the neck and waist. Even if a 
 band is put at the throat, and a belt at the waist, they will appear 
 neater and stronger if they are properly corded. 
 
 The skirt is next to be put on the waist, being first gathered, 
 plaited, or sloped, according to its fashion. If there are two 
 skirts, put the lower one on the waist-band, and the other on a 
 belt of the material, strongly lined. 
 
 If a sacque or cape is made, it should be cut out with the dress, 
 basted and fitted. A cape should be cut from a paper pattern, 
 and lined with some light muslin a little stiff. A cord should be 
 stitched round the edge, with the lining, and the latter then turned 
 and pressed to conceal the seam. This is not necessary if the 
 cape is to be trimmed at the edge, when the material must be cut 
 large enough to hem down on the lining. A sacque may be 
 corded, hemmed or bound according to the trimming. Sleeveless 
 sacques must be neatly corded round the arm-holes. 
 
 These directions are given principally for woolen or silk dresses, 
 and for a plain waist and separate skirt. The dress made all in 
 one must be cut from a paper pattern, and will be so difficult an 
 undertaking that the inexperienced dress-maker could scarcely 
 succeed from any written directions. 
 
 ■Thin materials for evening-dresses should be lined with silk, and 
 the waist made with some fullness, corded in round the shoulders 
 and at the waist ; the sleeves will be prettier puffed. 
 
 Cotton prints for summer wear are not always lined ; but should 
 be protected under the arms and round the arm-holes by a narrow 
 lining of cotton. Lawns, bareges, organdies, indeed all summer 
 fabrics will wear better, be more easily washed and ironed, and 
 look better, i*' the lining is made entirely separate from the dress. 
 
100 LACES, MVSLINS, FINE LIiXEN, AiXJJ FUR.S. 
 
 A handsomely trimmed corset cover, sewed to a tucked cambric 
 skirt, makes a pretty lining for a thm dress. Thin fabrics are 
 prettier faced with book-muslin than they are hemmed, excepting 
 plain materials which can be hemmed. Figured goods show the 
 irregularity of the pattern very badly in a hem. 
 
 LACES, MUSLINS, FINE LINEN, AND FURS. 
 
 The laces, muslins, and fine linens of a lady's wardrobe require 
 so much .care, and are so seriously injured by neglect, carelessness 
 in washing or mending, that no apology is needed for a few words 
 as to their proper preservation. 
 
 Small muslins, fine handkerchiefs, undersleeves, embroidered col- 
 lars, and white waists, should always soak one night in cold water be- 
 fore washing ; in the morning wash carefully through two warm 
 waters with white soap, squeezing or pressing out the dirt, never rub- 
 bing them, either with the hands or on a board. Then make a strong 
 lather of Avhite soap, pour it boiling hot over the muslins, and let 
 them lie in it ten minutes. Rinse through warm water, and again 
 through cold water, in which a very little blue must be stirred. 
 Dry thoroughly before starching. 
 
 Colored muslins must be washed in warm water, never hot, or 
 the color will fade. Make a strong lather of suds of white soap, 
 and stir in a tablespoonful of ox-gall. Dip the muslin in and 
 wash quickly, rubbing out spots, if necessary, between the hands. 
 AVash again in another lather. Rinse in clear cold water, and 
 dry. 
 
 When thoroughly dried, pass through starch-water to which a 
 .tablespoonful of gum-arabic water has been added. Dry again 
 quickly, and iron while slightly damp. Never sprinkle and roll a 
 colored muslin. 
 
 Dresses of fine brown or gray linen should be washed without 
 soap, first in cold water, then in lukewarm water in which bran 
 has been boiled for half an hour, and the water strained, or a 
 small quantity of hay has been boiled in place of the bran. Pass 
 the dress twice through the bran or hay-water, washing in one, 
 rinsing in the other. Dry in the shade, and the color- will be as 
 
LACES, MUSLINS, FINE LINEN, AND FUES. 101 
 
 bright as when new. It is better to use no starch, and to iron 
 while slightly damp. 
 
 Chintz will retain its bright color much longer if washed after 
 the following receipt : Boil two pounds of rice in five gallons of 
 water, strain and let stand until lukewarm ; then put in the chintz 
 and wash it thoroughly, using some of the rice tied in a mushn 
 bag, in the place of soap. Have enough of the rice-water to wash 
 the chintz twice, then rinse in clear luke-warm water, and dry in 
 the shade. 
 
 No colored clothes should ever be dried in the sun, as the rays 
 are the most powerful of all agents for extracting color. 
 
 Before fine thread-lace is washed, it should be soaked for a few- 
 hours in sweet olive oil. Valuable lace or even French blond may 
 be washed, with care, to look as well as new. It must be care- 
 fully picked off from any garment to which it has been sewn, then 
 wound round a smooth wooden roller covered Avith white linen, or 
 a common wine-bottle filled with water, will answer as a substitute 
 for the roller. Place the roller or bottle upright in a strong, cold 
 lather of white soap and water, where it must remain on a warm 
 hearth or near a stove for two days, till the dirt is all drawn out, 
 renewing the water several times. When quite clean, it must be 
 carefully rinsed by shaking in clear cold water, and partly dried 
 in the sun, then taken ofl" the roller and stretched upon a firm 
 cushion covered with white linen, pinning it down with a separate 
 pin for every point or scollop. When perfectly dry, fold and put 
 away. No starch must he used, nor should fine lace be ironed. 
 Fine lace collars may be washed in the same way, and if pressed, 
 placed between folds of white linen and put under heavy weights. 
 
 A white lace dress must be picked from all folds or gathers 
 before washing, and then it may be washed like a fine white lace 
 veil. Put it into a strong, cold lather of white soap-suds, in an 
 earthen vessel. Place this vessel in a pot of cold water, put it on 
 the fire until the water in the pot begins to boil, take it off, and 
 squeeze the dress or veil until quite clean. Rinse in two cold 
 waters, with a little blue in the last. 
 
 If the lace is to be stiffened (an error, as it proves it to have 
 been washed), it may be done by passing it through rice-water and 
 clapping it until nearly dry. Then pin out perfectly straight on 
 dean hnen, and dry. If ironed, cover with a clean muslin, fold 
 
102 LACES, MUSLINS, FINE LINEN, AND FURS. 
 
 before ironing, and press over that. Lace sleeves may be washed 
 in the same way. 
 
 To wash a black lace veil, bullock's gall must be mixed with hot 
 water, in the proportion of a wine-glassful to a half-gallon of 
 water. Make it as warm as the hand will bear, then squeeze the 
 veil through it several times, without any rubbing. R,inse through 
 cold water, and if the veil stains this, rinse again in a second cold 
 water. Take a piece of glue about the size of a hazle-nut, pour 
 ' on it a quart of boiling water, and when perfectly dissolved dip in 
 tlie veil, and clap until nearly dry. Pin out on a piece of black 
 glazed cambric to dry thoroughly. Cover with black cambric and 
 press by putting it under heavy weights. To iron it will give it an 
 appearance of having been done up. Any black lace may be 
 cleaned and restored, if rusty, by the same process. 
 
 Fine linen collars, when starched for ironing, are very apt to be 
 scorched, as they require a very hot iron to give them a glossy 
 appearance. This scorch may be removed by the following pro- 
 cess : Slice two peeled onions and squeeze out the juice ; mix with 
 half a pint of vinegar, one ounce of white soap grated, and two 
 ounces of pulverized fuller's earth. Boil the mixture twenty 
 minutes ; when cool spread it on the scorched spots, and let it dry 
 in the sun. Wash the mixture ofiF in clear water, and then wash 
 the linen in the usual way, when it will be found white as new. 
 
 Linen that has turned yellow with time may be whitened again 
 with washing in the following manner : Pour a gallon of boiling 
 milk over a pound of grated white soap, and boil together until 
 the soap is dissolved ; put the linen in the mixture and boil it for 
 half an hour. When taken out, wash in a warm lather of white 
 soap and water, and rinse, first in clear water, then in water tinged 
 with blue. 
 
 Ermine and Minivar furs are very easily soiled, but by a very 
 simple process may be handsomely cleaned. With a piece of soft 
 white flannel rub the fur well against the grain, then rub the same 
 way with fine wheat flour until perfectly clean. Rub again with 
 the flannel with the grain, and with the flour the same way until 
 clean. Rub with the flannel again against the grain till the flour 
 is all rubbed out, then shake well. Ermine will sometimes require 
 several rubbings, but it will come perfectly clean if patiently rub- 
 bed in this way. 
 
GLOVES, BOOTS, SILKS, AND VELVET. 103 
 
 Swansdown may be cleaned and look as well as new. Make k 
 strong lather of white soap and lukewarm water (hot water 
 shrinks the skin of swansdown). Work and squeeze the swans- 
 down through the lather, but do not rub it. Repeat the process 
 through clean suds until you see that the down is clean and white. 
 Rinse through lukewarm water, and then through cold water. 
 Take it into the sun and stretch it to dry over a board covered 
 with white linen. You must pass your hand over it against the 
 grain while drying, or shake it dry, to prevent its matting. 
 
 If swansdown is only slightly soiled, it is best to clean it with- 
 out washing. Powder some plaster of Paris as fine as possible, 
 sift it through a very fine sieve, put it in a white china bowl, and 
 heat it over the fire ; when warm, but not hot, it is ready for use. 
 Heat a metal pan warm, but not hot, and put the swansdown into 
 it ; then sift over it the warm powder, shaking it well over from a 
 fine sieve, and tossing the swansdown about under it that every 
 part may be powdered. Repeat the process until the swansdown 
 is perfectly white, then shake off the loose powder, and it will be 
 found thoroughly cleaned. 
 
 GLOYES, BOOTS, SILKS, AND VELVET. 
 
 The care of all the details of dress requiring nicety and atten- 
 tion, to preserve them in the order necessary for a well-dressed 
 lady, we give a few simple directions that will be found useful. 
 
 TO CLEAN KID GLOVES. 
 
 Take a quart of warm water, and grate into it a half pound of 
 cuid soap, throw in a piece of new flannel ; boil all together for 
 five minutes, and let it stand until lukewarm. Take out the flan- 
 nel, squeeze it hard, and soap with curd soap. Place the glove on 
 a flat china dish, pull it out, and rub with the soaped flannel. Rub 
 all the spots till clean, dampening the flannel from time to time in 
 the lather ; rub again till nearly dry with a piece of clean dry 
 white flannel. Dry in the sun. When nearly dry, pull into shape, 
 put them on the hands, and rub and clap together before a fire 
 until perfectly dry. Lay in the air for twenty-four hours, then 
 
104 GLOVES, BOOTS, SILKS, AND VELVET. 
 
 '• 
 put them on the hands and dust over with a httle pulverized 
 French chalk, which will restore the glossy appearance. 
 
 A more efFectivc way, but one which is objected to on account 
 of the smell, is to put the gloves on, and wash, as if washmg the 
 hands, in a basin of spirits of turpentine. If dried in a strong 
 current of air, the unpleasant smell will be entirely gone when the 
 gloves are thoroughly dry. 
 
 For white, or very delicately-t-inted gloves, a good process of 
 cleaning is to clean them dry. If gloves fit the hand closely when 
 nevv^, they are apt to shrink when wet, until too small for further 
 use. To obviate this difficulty, clean by the following process : 
 
 Stretch the gloves on a clean board tightly covered with clean 
 linen. Rub all the spots carefully with cream of tartar, dry, rub- 
 bing from the wrists to the tips of the fingers. Let the cream of 
 tartar lie thickly on the spots for an hour. Mix in equal quanti- 
 ties pulverized fuller's earth and pulverized alum ; apply the pow- 
 der with a soft, clean brush, rubbing always from the wrist to the 
 finger-tips. Let this mixture lie thickly on the gloves for two 
 hours. Brush all the powder off with a clean brush, turn the 
 gloyes over, and repeat the process with cream of tartar, and the 
 powdered mixture. Brush off again clean. Mix in equal quanti- 
 tities sifted bran and finely pulverized whiting. Put the gloves 
 on the hand, and rub on the last mixture with clean flannel. Then 
 spread the same mixture on the board, place the gloves smoothly 
 upon it, cover with the same, and let them remain one hour. 
 Brush the powder off with a clean brush, shake the gloves well, 
 and they will be found perfectly clean. The process is a tedious 
 one, but the gloves look equal to new, and do not shrink. 
 
 Cream of tartar alone rubbed upon white kid gloves will cleanse 
 them if they are not much soiled. 
 
 Boots, shoes, and slippers should always be of the best mate- 
 rial, a perfect fit, and handsomely finished. There is no poorer 
 economy than is displayed in the purchase of so-called cheap 
 shoes, the most expensive, really, that can be bought. They 
 cramp and torture the feet, and will never wear well, and before 
 they are broken or worn out, will lose all beauty of shape. A 
 well-fitting, handsomely made boot, on the other hand, of fine 
 material, will present a good appearance as long as it lasts. 
 
 Ladies' boots and slippers should be kept always in a shoe-bag 
 
GLOVES, BOOTS, SILKS, AND VELVET. 105 
 
 of glazed calico, each shoe or boot in its own separate pocket. 
 They should he carefully dusted after walking, and if wet, dried 
 and cleaned before they are put away. Nothing injures the beauty 
 of a boot more than to be thrown on a closet-floor, or in a box 
 with others. 
 
 Patent-leather will look handsome if rubbed frequently with 
 unsalted butter, which is rubbed in with flannel, and the boot or 
 shoe pohshed afterwards with a piece of soft buckskin 
 
 French kid can be made to look well again after it wears rusty, 
 by a mixture of equal parts of ink and sweet oil, applied with a 
 camsl's-hair brush, and dried in before a hot fire. 
 
 White kid boots or slippers for evening wear may be cleaned by 
 cream of tartar and crumbs of stale bread pounded together, and 
 rubbed on dry. If very dirty, the addition of alum and fuller's 
 earth, dry, to the mixture, will make a cleansing mixture. Rub 
 it on and let it remain three hours, then rub ofif with a soft, clean 
 brush. 
 
 Shoes or boots that cramp the feet in any part, or are too large, 
 will never wear as long or as handsomely as perfectly fitting ones. 
 They will produce corns, bunions, and other torments on the feet, 
 and not only these, but in winter they cause painful chilblains, 
 and, by stopping the circulation, have been known to cause, also, 
 paralysis of the lower limbs. Independent of these injurious re- 
 sults, they give an air of awkwardness to the wearer that no well- 
 dressed lady would wish to acquire. 
 
 White silk or white ribbon may be cleaned by the following pro- 
 cess : Grate a half-pound of curd soap in a gallon of luke-warm 
 water, set it on the fire in an earthen vessel set in a tin or iron one 
 filled with water. Stir until all the soap is perfectly dissolved. 
 Place the silk in a deep white china dish or bowl, and pour the hot 
 suds over it. Let it stand ten minutes, then squeeze, without rub- 
 bing, until clean ; if very dirty, repeat the process. Rinse in luke- 
 warm water, clear, and hang smoothly over a line to dry. While 
 still damp smooth the silk over long pieces of damp linen, and roll 
 both together tightly for an hour. Then iron on the wrong side, 
 with the linen between the silk and the iron. The iron must not 
 be very hot, or it will yellow tlie silk. 
 
 For colored silks, mix half a pint of pure Holland gin, four 
 ounces of grated white soap, and two ounces of honey ; shake 
 
log MANAGEMENT OF THE HAIR. 
 
 until thoroughly mixed, in a bottle. Spread the silk smoothly 
 over a board covered with linen, and sponge with this mixture till 
 all spots are out. Put a wine-glassful of ox-gall in two gallons of 
 water, and rinse the silk, first in clear water, thea in the gall and 
 water. Never wring silk, but shake out the water and hang to 
 dry. Fold and iron as directed above for tlie white silk. 
 
 The " Transactions of the Society of Arts " gives a method for 
 cleaning silk, which will not only cleanse perfectlj'- all colored silks, 
 but will restore the color, gloss, and beauty of rusty black silk. 
 Grate raw potatoes (white), peeled and washed, in cold water, to a 
 fine pulp ; mix one pound of the pulp with a pint of clear, cold 
 water ; pass the mixture through a coarse sieve into an earthen 
 vessel, where it must remain till the fine, white starch settles, 
 leaving the water clear. Pour off the clear mucilaginous liquor, 
 which is to be used for the cleaning. To perform this process, 
 spread the article to be cleaned upon a table, which should be 
 covered with a clean white linen cloth ; dip a clean sponge in the 
 potato-water, and sponge the silk till perfectly clean ; then wash 
 in clean water carefully, shaking, instead of squeezing or rubbing. 
 If there are spots that will not come out with the sponging, apply 
 some of the starch left in the bottom of the vessel, when the water 
 is poured off. 
 
 To clean velvet, strain it tightly over a board, and sponge with 
 pure Holland gin, the sponge being squeezed out very hard, that 
 it may be damp, not wet. Then hold near a fire, the wrong side 
 to the heat, until the pile begins to rise. Iron by passing the 
 wrong side over the edge of a warm flat-iron, as no pressure must 
 come upon the right side. 
 
 MANAGEMENT OE THE HAIR. 
 
 One of the most beautiful ornaments to the face is a head of 
 handsome hair, well preserved, glossy^ and tastefully and becom- 
 ingly arranged. 
 
 " Loss of hair," says M. Cazenave, "resulting from general dis- 
 ease, or from j)rofound constitutional disturbance, will disappear 
 in most cases, with the removal of the cause which produced it. 
 
MANAGEMENT OF THE HAIR. 107 
 
 There are cases in which the scalp maj^ be advantageously shaved, 
 and the secretion of the hair stimulated by dry friction, tonic 
 lotions, and a judicious regimen ; but such extreme cases are more 
 the affair of the physician, than the general care of the hair." 
 
 Loss of hair may be occasioned, or very greatly increased, by 
 the means usually adopted for dressing and adorning it, and very 
 many of the pomades and preparations sold for the promotion of 
 its growth, are in reality highly injurious. The too frequent use 
 of very hard brushes and fine-tooth combs will often be found of 
 more injury than benefit. 
 
 If the hair, from sickness or other causes, falls off or is loosened 
 by the comb, the following process will be found of advantage, and 
 is perfectly innocent: Mix one ounce of gum camphor and two 
 ounces of pulverized borax ; pour over it two quarts of boiling 
 water. When cold, bottle it and keep it tightly corked. Apply to 
 the hair night and morning, rubbing it into the scalp with a piece 
 of sponge or soft flannel. The use may be continued until the 
 hair ceases to fall out. It is cleansing as well as strengthening to 
 the scalp, but should be strained when used, through coarse, thin 
 muslin. 
 
 For efiectually cleansing the hair, a fine tooth-comb may be 
 passed through it once in twenty-four hours, in order to keep it 
 from tangling, separating the hairs carefully and repeatedly, so as 
 to allow the air to pass freely through them for several minutes, 
 but never scraping or scratching the scalp with the comb. A 
 moderately hard brush may then be used to stimulate the roots 
 of the hair, and for cleansing the scalp. 
 
 Upon retiring, it is advisable to part the hair evenly, and brush 
 it carefully, to avoid its folding against the grain, which causes it 
 to break. It should then be gathered loosely into a white cotton 
 net — never a cap. To leave it entirely uncovered subjects it to 
 tangling, unless it is twisted up, which is quite as injurious. 
 
 Some persons carry the dressing of the hair to an absurd ex- 
 cess — brushing it till the scalp is red, combing it vigorously this 
 way and that, till the root is actually loosened, and altering its 
 arrangement several times during the day. Such treatment will 
 soon ruin the finest hair. 
 
 When the hair is very long, and worn in any confined, twisted 
 form, it should be combed out the full length every night. Long 
 
108 MANAGEMENT OF THE UAIR. 
 
 curls should also be carefully combed out at niglit, and loosely 
 gathered into a cotton net. 
 
 The habit of immersing the head in cold Avater every morning 
 and rubbing the head with a coarse towel, is beneficial when the 
 hair is short, as in gentlemen ; but with long hair it is apt to leave 
 a dampness, and result in neuralgic or bronchial affections. Wet- 
 ting the hair very often to keep it in place, will in time produce a 
 dryness and a faded appearance in the hair, and is not any benefit 
 to it. 
 
 Salt water has a bad efTect upon the hair, and a closely fitting 
 cap of oil-skin should always be worn when bathing in salt water. 
 Coverings that are very heavy or very warm should be avoided, 
 and such worn as will allow the air to circulate on the scalp. 
 
 Abstain altogether from cutting, v.etting, twisting, or tightly 
 binding the hair. It should always be disentangled slowly and 
 carefully, and arranged so as to allovv^ the free current of the Cuid 
 along the tubes, from the bulbs to the extreme end of each hair. 
 
 Where the hair is naturally dry, some greasy substance may 
 occasionally be used, and we give a few safe pomades at the end 
 of this chapter, which may be prepared at home. If the hair is 
 naturally greasy, these are not only useless, but injurious. All 
 very greasy hair requires great care to keep it clean, and the 
 preparation of camphor and borax given above, is one of the best 
 that can be used. 
 
 Hair dyes are an utter abomination, and should never be used. 
 They are dangerous, dirty, and injurious, as well as a practical lie. 
 It may not be generally known that nothing will so soon destroy 
 the gloss of the hair as the habitual use of a dirty, greasy brush 
 and comb. These should be washed once a week at least, and 
 dried in the sun. The best way to wash them is to dissolve a 
 small piece of soda in warm water, and apply with a sponge be- 
 tween the bristles until clean ; then dip the bristles only into the 
 solution and allow it to remam ten minutes. Einse in clear, cold 
 water, and dry in the sun. 
 
 A good and safe hair-oil is made by the following process : Mix 
 half a pint spirits of wine, one pint of olive oil, half a pint of 
 deodorized castor-oil, and half a pound of green southern wood. 
 Boil for two hours ; take off the fire and strain through coarse 
 linen. Pour into an earthen vessel, w'ell heated, and beat up well 
 
CARE OF THE COMBLEXION AND HANDS. 109 
 
 with three ounces of bear's grease or beef marrow strained ; strain 
 all again through coarse linen, and bottle for use. 
 
 A simple and safe pomade : Take one ounce of beefs marrow, 
 and soak it until all the blood is out, in cold water. Place in an 
 earthen jar with half an ounce of unsalted butter ; put the jar in 
 a pot of lukewarm water and stand on the fire until the water boils, 
 stirring the marrow and butter till thoroughly mixed. Let it cool 
 in earthen jars. A little oil of bergamot may be added for per- 
 fume. This pomade must be used while fresh, as it will only- 
 keep a few days. The same process, substituting lard for butter, 
 and adding a quarter of an ounce of beeswax, will make a pomade 
 that will keep for months. 
 
 For thickening the hair, the oil of Palma Christi, perfumed with 
 lavender, will be found beneficial and perfectly harmless. 
 ■ A harmless bandoline may be made by the following process : 
 Two ounces of deodorized castor oil, one drachm spermaceti, one 
 drachm oil of burgamot, six drops otto of roses. Put in an earthen 
 vessel ; stand this in a pot of water, and stir over the fire until 
 well mixed ; strain, and put in earthen jars. 
 
 A French receipt for bandoline will close this chapter, but if 
 used, must be washed out with cold water at night, as it makes the 
 hair sticky if left on : 
 
 Pour a quart of boiling water on half an ounce of quince seeds ; 
 boil together for one hour ; strain through coarse muslin. When 
 cold add fourteen drops of essential oil of almonds, and a table- 
 spoonful of French brandy. 
 
 CAEE OF THE COMPLEXION AND HANDS. 
 
 By the care of the complexion we do not mean a habitual use 
 of cosmetics and washes that tend, almost invariably, to dry the 
 skin and make it rough and unsightly, by impeding the natural 
 flow of the insensible perspiration, and clogging the pores. A 
 fair skin is never improved, nor is a bad complexion made hand- 
 some, by the use of any of the injurious compounds sold under 
 the pretence of " beautifying the complexion." The best cosmetic 
 
110 CARE OF THE COMPLE^YION AND HANDS. 
 
 in the world is a bountiful supply of clear water, thrown on the 
 face with the hands, and dried upon a moderately coarse towel. 
 
 One of the cares, however, in the preservation of a smooth, fair 
 skin, should be in the choice of soap. Many of the highly-per- 
 fumed toilet soaps are very injurious, and it is a bad plan to change 
 the kind of soap very frequently. The real brown Windsor soap 
 is harmless, and pure Castile soap is very softening to the skin. 
 
 Where soap is used, it should be rinsed off in a basin of fair 
 water, which has had no soap in it. 
 
 A few simple preparations are given, not to improve the com- 
 plexion, but merely to remove the effects of sunburn, and other 
 accidental causes of discoloration. 
 
 To remove sunburn, take two drachms of spirits of wine, one 
 half-pint of sweet milk, and the juice of half a large, fresh lemon, 
 simmer for half an hour over a slow fire, then allow to boil two 
 minutes ; skim carefully, and cool. When quite cold it is fit for 
 use. Apply at bed-time, and wash off in the morning with clear 
 warm water. 
 
 Another cream for the same use may be made by the following 
 receipt, and will remove freckles that are temporary, and caused 
 by some unusual exposure : 
 
 Into half a pint of new, unskimmed milk, stir two tablespoons- 
 ful of fresh cream. Mix together a wine-glass full of Frencli white 
 brandy, the juice of a large lemon, a teaspoonful of powdered 
 sugar, and half a teaspoonful of pulverized aluni. Stir together 
 till well mixed, and then add the milk slowly, stirring it over a 
 moderate fire. Simmer for an hour, boil tea minutes, skim, strain 
 through coarse muslin, and stand to cool. When cold, apply every 
 night until the burns or freckles are gone. 
 
 Gentlemen who have been badly burned in fishing or shooting 
 excursions can prevent the skin from bhstering or breaking by 
 applying this mixture at night. 
 
 A harmless powder for the complexion that may be used in 
 summer to prevent the glossy look caused by excessive perspira- 
 tion, may be prepared in the following manner : 
 
 Take two ounces of pulverized starch, three drachms of pow- 
 dered orris-root, four ounces of powdered marshmallow-root, and 
 two ounces of powdered jasmine flowers (dried). Pound together 
 in a mortar till thoroughly mixed, and sift through fine muslin. 
 
CAJm OF THE (yOMPLE^ION AND HANDS. l\\ 
 
 Apply with a swansdown puff ball, and wipe off with a fine, soft 
 handkerchief. 
 
 Some complexions, otherwise good, have a greasy appearance 
 at times, that washing will not remove. A harmless remedy for 
 this may be prepared as follows : 
 
 Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, add the juice of a 
 large, fresh lemon, beating it into the egg a few drops at a time, 
 with a wooden spoon. Put in an earthen jar, which jar stand in 
 a pan of water. Stir well over a slow fire, till about as thick as 
 new butter. Take off and cool. When cold, apply at night, pre- 
 viously washing the face in lukewarm \5'ater in which rice has been 
 boiled. Wash off with clear lukewarm water in the morning. 
 
 A white, soft hand being one of the most beautiful additions to 
 a woman's loveliness, we give a few receipts for curing chapj^ed 
 skin, and removing hardness of the skin, or blisters from the sun, 
 or unaccustomed exposure. 
 
 For chapped hands, take a quarter of a pound of unsalted hog's 
 lard, and work it well through clear cold water, then drain, and 
 work again in a wine-glass full of rosewater, the yolks of two fresh 
 eggs, and a tablespoonful of honey. When well worked together 
 in an earthen dish, mix in gradually as much finely-powdered oat- 
 meal as will make a paste about the consistency of new butter. 
 For use, spread the mixture on the hands at night, cover with old 
 kid gloves too large for the hands, and in the morning wash off 
 with pure water. 
 
 Another cure for chapped or blistered hands : Take a wineglass 
 full of sweet olive oil, three drachms of grated spermaceti, three 
 drachms of pulverized-gum camphor, and three drachms of grated 
 Avhite beeswax. Mix together and put in an earthen vessel over a 
 slow fire, stirring till all are thoroughly melted, with a wooden 
 spoon or stick. When well mixed, plunge the jar suddenly into 
 cold water, and the mixture will form a white cake. At night rub 
 the cake on the hands well, cover with kid gloves, and wash off in 
 the morning in lukewarm milk. A few applications will cure the 
 worst chapped or blistered hands, and if the hands are positively 
 sore, the mixture may be applied two or three times during the 
 day, keeping on the gloves until the cure is effected. 
 
 Ladies who are unaccustomed to the use of hot soapsuds are 
 .often troubled after washing muslins or laces by the stiff, sore 
 
112 DENTIFRICE AND LIPSALVES. 
 
 feeling of the hands. This can be removed, and soreness prevent- 
 ed by washing the hands thoroughly in weak vinegar and water as 
 soon as the suds are wiped off. 
 
 A coarse, red hand may be made white and soft bjr wearing 
 every night old kid gloves, rubbing the hands over with sweet 
 cream before putting them on. 
 
 As we have "before mentioned, one of the most dangerous ap- 
 plications to the complexion is a poor soap, and we give direc- 
 tions for the preparation of two that are safe and beneficial to the 
 skin : 
 
 Procure from the manufactory two pounds of fine white soap, 
 Warranted pure ; grate this into an earthen jar, and set the jar in 
 a saucepan of water ; stir over a bright fire till thoroughly melted. 
 Add three ounces of pure palm-oil, three ounces of honey (clari- 
 fied), and twenty drops of oil of cinnamon. Let the mixture boil 
 for twenty minutes, and stand in the air to cool. When cool 
 enough to handle, form into cakes, and spread on white paper to 
 harden. 
 
 Scrape two cakes of brown Windsor soap into a wine-glass full 
 of cologne water, add a wineglass full of lemon juice, and beat all 
 well together till it is a stiff lather. Mould into cakes and dry in 
 the sun till perfectly hard. If this soap is used on the nails, and 
 clear lemon juice afterwards rubbed on the nails, it will make 
 them exquisitely white. 
 
 DENTIFRICE AND LIP-SALYES. 
 
 The very best dentifrice is undoubtedly pure white Castile soap 
 and lukewarm water, mixed in a lather, brushed over the teeth, and 
 afterwards brushed and rinsed away with clear lukewarm water. 
 
 A few simple preparations are given, however, for those who 
 may object to the taste of the soap or the mouthful of warm lather. 
 
 Mix in a mortar until thoroughly incorporated, the following 
 ingredients : two ounces powdered charcoal, one ounce powdered 
 Peruvian bark, half an ounce each of powdered orris root and 
 prepared chalk, and twenty drops of oil of lavender. Keep in a 
 porcelain box, and use once a day. 
 
DENTIFRICE AND LIPSALVES. 113 
 
 An excellent tooth-wash is made in the following manner : 
 Dissolve in three pints of boiling water, two ounces of powdered 
 borax; when lukewarm, add a teaspoonful of tincture of myrrh 
 and a tablespoonful of distilled spirits of camphor. Bottle when 
 cold. A tablespoonful stirred into a cup of tepid water, and 
 applied first with the brush and then to rinse the mouth, will pre- 
 serve the teeth white and sound. 
 
 When tartar has collected upon the teeth, it may be removed by 
 rubbmg a leaf of fresh green sage on the teeth, and chewing the 
 leaves in the mouth. Another method is to brush the teeth first 
 Vv'ith soap, and then with coarse salt applied on the brush as a 
 dentrifice. 
 
 Water used for the teeth should always be lukewarm, as hot and 
 cold water are alike injurious. The brush should be moderately 
 hard, with the bristles very thick but not too stiff. Care in rinsing 
 is important. The mouth should be thoroughly rinsed and the 
 teeth brushed with clear warm water both before and after the use 
 of any dentifrice. The greatest preservative of the teeth is the 
 habit of brushing after eating, if it is only a cracker. 
 
 A good salve for chapped or broken lips, may be made as fol- 
 lows : Take four ounces of fresh, unsalted butter, cut it into small 
 pieces, and place it in an earthen vessel ; cover the butter with 
 rose-water ; cover the vessel closely, and stand aside for five days 
 in a cool place. At the end of that time drain ofl^any remaining 
 liquid, and put the butter in the earthen jar in a saucepan of warm 
 water. Add one ounce of grated spermaceti, one ounce of grated 
 beeswax, quarter of an ounce of powdered alkanet root, two 
 drachms of pulverized gum benzoin, one ounce of pulverized 
 borax, half an ounce of powdered white sugar, and a tablespoonful 
 of clear lemon-juice. Beat all well together, and place over a 
 slow fire, stirring constantly till it reaches the boiling point. Re- 
 move from the fire before it boils, and when cool put in china jars 
 for use. 
 
 Another excellent lip-salve is made by mixing cold two and a 
 half ounces of grated beeswax, one ounce of spermaceti, and four 
 ounces of oil of almonds. Simmer together over a slow fire until 
 thoroughly mixed, and put in earthen jars to cool. 
 
 The celebrated rose-lip salve is made from the following receipt : 
 Take quarter of a pound of strained and clarified mutton suet, half 
 
114 COLD CREAM, MILK OF ROSES, AND RERFUMES. 
 
 a pound of sweet almond oil, two ounces of white wax, two ounces 
 of spermaceti, twenty drops ottar of roses, and twenty drops of 
 essence of alkanet root. Melt the suet, wax and spermaceti 
 together over a slow fire, and while warm stir in the other ingre- 
 dients. Place in small earthen jars to cool. 
 
 A verj'- simple salve may be made to use immediately if the lips 
 are chapped by some unusual and un3xpected exposure to cold. 
 If applied as soon as the soreness is felt, it will be found to soothe 
 the irritation and prevent the skin from breaking : 
 
 Put a small quantity of olive oil in a saucer ; place it over a 
 vessel of boiling water, keeping the water boiling ; drop into it 
 slowly melted beeswax imtil it covers the oil ; stir slowly with a 
 wooden stick until thoroughly incorporated, and set aside to cool. 
 When cold, rub on the lips with the finger. 
 
 Many ladies are so troubled with sensitive lips that a salve is a 
 positive necessity upon the toilet-table, and they will consult not 
 only economy but safety, in making tht preparations themselves 
 instead of trusting to the 'druggist. Good cold cream, the receipt 
 for which is given in another chapter, is an excellent lip-salve, and 
 the pure glycerine is also healing and pleasant. 
 
 COLD CREAM, MILK OF HOSES, AND PER- 
 FUMES. 
 
 FINE COLD CREAM. 
 
 3 drachms of white wax, 
 
 2^ oz. sweet oil of almonds, 
 
 3 drachms spermaceti, 
 
 2 oz. rosewater, 
 
 1 drachm oil of bergamot, 
 
 15 drops oil of lavender, 
 
 18 drops ottar or roses. 
 Place the wax, spermaceti, and oil of almonds, in an earthen- 
 ware jar, and stand the jar in boiling water until they are all 
 thoroughly melted and mixed. Then pour off into a heated mortar, 
 and gradually stir in the rose water ; when well mixed and cool, 
 add the other ingredients. Beat all well together, and place in 
 porcelain jars to grow cold. 
 
COLD CREAM, MILK OF ROSES, AND PERFUMES. 115 
 
 Another method, mixed in the same way, is to use : 
 4 drachms white wax, 
 10 " spermaceti, 
 ^ pound lard, strained (without salt), 
 15 grains subcarbonate potash, 
 4 oz. rose water, 
 2 oz. spirits of wine, 
 10 drops ottar of roses, or orange-flower water. 
 Granulated cold cream is made as follows : 
 
 Mix together one ounce each of white wax and sp»3rmaceti. 
 Heat in an earthen vessel three ounces of almond oil, and when 
 hot, stir in the wax and spermaceti, and work together ; when 
 cooling, pour a pint of warm Avater into a warm earthen dish, and 
 into this pour the mixture previously prepared. Stir all well to- 
 gether ; add twenty drops of ottar of roses, and mould with the 
 hand, squeezing out the water. Have a clean vessel of iced-water 
 into which suddenly plunge the ball. Strain the water out through 
 a coarse muslin bag. 
 
 ALMOND CREAM. 
 
 Blanch one ounce of bitter almonds, and grind them to a fine 
 powder, add one ounce of barley flour, and work to a paste with a 
 small quantity of clarified honey. 
 
 MILK OF ROSES. 
 
 2 OZ. blanched almonds, 
 
 1 pt, rose water, 
 
 2 oz. grated white soap, 
 
 2 drachms white wax, grated, 
 
 2 drachms oil of almonds, 
 
 8 oz. rectified spirits of wine, 
 
 1 drachm oil of bergamot, 
 15 drops ottar of roses. 
 Beat the almonds and rose water well together. Put the soap, 
 white wax, and oil of almonds together in an earthen jar, and stir 
 together over a slow fire ; when well mixed, stir in the rose water 
 and almonds, and then add the other ingredients. Simmer gently 
 for a few minutes, strain through thin, coarse muslin, and cool. 
 Keep in tightly-corked bottles. 
 
 FRENCH MILK OF ROSES. 
 
 1 quart of rose water, 
 
IIQ COLD CREAM, MILK OF ROSES, AND PERFUMES. 
 
 1 pint rosemary water, 
 
 2 oz. tincture of storax, 
 2 oz. tincture benzoin, 
 
 \ oz. spirit of rose. 
 Mix by shaking in a bottle, plunging it occasionally into warm, 
 but not hot water. 
 
 GERMAN MILK OF ROSES. 
 
 4 OZ. blanched almonds, grated, 
 2 oz. grated white curd soap, 
 
 1 quart rose water. 
 
 Rub the soap and almonds together with the hand, gradually 
 adding the rose water, till all are thoroughly mixed. Warm all 
 for a few minutes by standing in a vessel in a pan of boiling water. 
 Strain through fine muslin, and bottle for use. 
 
 COLOGNE WATER. 
 
 2 quarts rectified spirits of wine, 
 1 OZ. oil of bergamot, 
 
 ^ oz. oil of lemon, 
 
 ^ oil of rosemary, 
 
 1 drachm oil of Neroli, 
 
 1 drachm oil of lavender, 
 
 1 drachm oil of oranges. 
 
 Mix all these ingredients well together, and filter them care- 
 fully, and an excellent cologne Avater will be made. 
 
 LAVENDER WATER. 
 
 2 drachms oil of lavender, 
 80 grains of bergamot, 
 
 1 " essence of musk, 
 1 pint rectified spirits of wine, 
 1 gill clear spring water. 
 Mix and let it stand for ten days before filtering. 
 
 TINCTURE OF ROSES. 
 
 Take the petals of the common garden rose {Centifolia) and 
 place them, with as little pressure as possible, in a wine bottle. 
 Fill with rectified spirits of wine, and cork tightly. This will 
 keep for years, and is but little inferior to the choicest ottar of 
 roses. Any perfume to which ottar of roses is added may be 
 prepared with this tincture, doubling the quantity. 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 117 
 
 GENERAL EEMAEKS. 
 
 " A LADY is never so well dressed as when you are unable to 
 remember any part of her attire," says one of the most distin- 
 guished English authors, and we beg leave to heartily endorse his 
 opinion. 
 
 To attain this perfection of dress the most perfect harmony is 
 requisite, not only in the dress itself, but in its adaptiveness to the 
 wearer, to the occasion upon which it is worn, and to its surround- 
 ings. It must be exquisitely neat in every detail, must fit the 
 fijure accurately, and have about it no glaring contrasts, no vulgar 
 finery, no conspicuous trimming, no gaudy ornament. One incon- 
 gruous detail, and the dress is ruined ! 
 
 " Mrs, B. would liavo been exquisitely dressed if her gloves had 
 not been so very yellow." " Mrs. S. wore a belt-ribbon two shades 
 too light for her dress." "Miss G. actually had on three shades 
 of blue." 
 
 How often do these and similar remarks testify to the " critic's 
 eyes " after any occasion upon which each of those present was 
 especially desirous to appear well dressed. 
 
 In America it is, unfortunately, the custom to follow the dictates 
 of fashion too blindly. If a color, a style, a material is fashionable, 
 every fair votary of the fickle goddess seems to imagine it will suit 
 her to perfection. Are stripes in vogue ? ladies of long, slim fig- 
 ures promenade the streets, looking like exaggerated barber-poles. 
 Do the cross-bars reign 1 mark the short, dumpy sisters, looking 
 niore like lager-beer barrels than ever in the fashionable figure. 
 Are large patterns in vogue 1 see the tiny women struggling to 
 spread out their preposterous proportions over a form that is 
 utterly ruined by them. So with colors : cuir is the rage — no 
 matter if it makes your complexion appear green, yellow, or crim- 
 son, put it on. Toutcllc succeeds : if you look like a galvanized 
 corpse in it, put it on. Marie-Louise blue is in fashion, becoming to 
 about one person in a hundred. Never mind, you must wear it — 
 it is the fashion ! 
 
 Now, is it not absurd 1 If the fair sex is to be thus enslaved. 
 
118 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 why not at once adopt a national uniform, and put it on 1 It 
 would save time and trouble ; .and if taste, tact, and harmonj- are 
 tc be of no use to their possessor, why attempt to exercise them 1 
 
 We are fully aware that fashion is far too much of a despot to be 
 set at defiance entirely. She exacts from her worshippers a slavish 
 submission, and unquestioning compliance with her most unreason- 
 able and extravagant demands. It is useless to deny her right, to 
 try to oppose her decrees. No one of the devotees bowing before 
 her glittering shrine, may, with impunity, take an indei)endent 
 stand and run counter to her commands. We are creatures of the 
 day, and if we do not follow the stream, mark how we are at once 
 " remarkable," " eccentiic," "so very odd, you know." 
 
 And when all is said, it is no new thing, and our utmost extrava- 
 gancies of to-day do not exceed the freaks of the goddess in the 
 days of our great-grandmothers It is very curious to take two 
 extracts from " The Connoisseur,^' of 1754, and Goldsmith, a few 
 years later, and compare them with the changes of more than a 
 century later. The Connoisseur declares that, " it would be endless 
 to trace the strange revolutions that have happened in every part 
 of the female dress within these few years. The hoop has been 
 known to expand and contract itself from the size of a butter- 
 churn to the circumference of three hogsheads. At one time it 
 was sloped from the waist in a pyramidal form ; at another, it was 
 bent upwards like an inverted bow, by which the two angles, wheu 
 squeezed up on each side, came in contact with the ears. At pres- 
 ent it is nearly of an oval form, and scarce measures from end to 
 end above twice the length of the wearer." 
 
 Now mark the round fashion made a hundred years ago. Gold- 
 smith, a few years later, writes : 
 
 " Ladies have laid aside their hoops, and become as slim as 
 mermaids. What chiefly distinguishes the sex at present is the 
 train, which requires three superfluous yards of silk, and after it 
 has swept the public walks but a very few evenings is fit to be 
 worn no longer." 
 
 Yet, while we acknowledge the supremacy of Fashion, and agree 
 in a measure with Burton, who says, " there is a decency and de- 
 corum in this, as well as in other things fit to be used, becoming 
 several persons and befitting their estates; he is only fantastical 
 that is not in fashion, and like an old image in arras hanging, when 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. Hg 
 
 a manner of attire is generally received," yet we protest against 
 giving up personality in the matter of dress entirely. Fashion is 
 as fickle as she is imperious, and even her most fervid votaries 
 would find it almost impossible to follow her in all her vagaries. 
 There is, therefore, a judicious medium to be observed. A lady 
 may avoid any singularity, and yet preserve strictly her own per- 
 sonality. To attain this, her dress should, while in the mode, still 
 seem peculiarly her own, and what she has to consider is how far 
 she may go, with propriety, in following or discarding the fashion 
 of the day. In nothing, certainly, must she lose sight of her own 
 individuality. 
 
 True taste, that rarest of all gifts, will indicate how far fashion 
 may be united with grace and elegance, and all be made subser- 
 vient to personal beauty or character. 
 
 Style may be acquired, and yet omissions or alterations made 
 where the prevailing style would exaggerate a defect in figure, or 
 add to awkwardness in movement If the prevailing fashion tend 
 to exaggerate slimness, it may be followed without appearing like 
 a May-pole ; if it increases the bulk, pray let the fat sisters sub- 
 due its effect as far as possible without eccentricity. If small 
 capes are worn, the round-shouldered need not cut them as short 
 as possible ; if narrow skirts, the long and lank need not bind them 
 tight round the ankle. Let the dressmaker follow the prevailing 
 style only so far as it will suit each customer's own peculiar 
 figure. 
 
 So' in trimmings, where fashion is apt to become altogether 
 riotous. If lace is in vogue, it is not necessary to bury the dress 
 in it. If puffs are worn, do not allow the dress to become all 
 puffs. If the sleeves are large, no lady need appear as if she had 
 become the possessor of a pair of wings while yet on earth, by 
 adding a profusion of fashionable trimming to their already ex- 
 aggerated proportions. 
 
 Especially may a proper independence be shown in the matter 
 of color. On this point a lady should take a decided stand. 
 Nothing is more absurd than to see ladies of every complexion, 
 age, and variety, dressing as though in a livery, as is the case 
 whenever one color in fashion makes them fairly monomaniacs on 
 the subject. We all remember the cuir and mauve fever, and there 
 have been others just as absurd. 
 
120 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 To quote Goldsmith again, who writes : 
 
 " The Mall, the gardens, and the play-houses, are filled with 
 ladies in uniform, and their whole appearance shows as little 
 varietj'" or taste as if their clothes were bespoke by the colonel of 
 a marching regiment, or fancied by the same artist who dreiises 
 the three battalions of guards." 
 
 And while it is quite within the bounds of possibility for a lady 
 to preserve a just medium in conforming to the fashion, and yet 
 dress well and gracefully, and often far better than those whose 
 sole aim and desire is to be fashionably dressed, so may she also 
 avoid another rock on the stream of fashion — extravagance. 
 
 One of tlie most conspicuous faults of she day is the lavish ex- 
 penditure upon dress. Most of the prevailing modes (1869) re- 
 quire the most costly, and yet perishable, material. Satin, of light 
 tint, is worn in the street, and other vulgarities of the same nature 
 are yet a la mode. 
 
 A lady should dress as becomes her position and fortune, and 
 may be sure she earns neither admiration nor respect by exceed- 
 ing either. Her beauty is not enhanced by it, for true beauty is 
 never more attractive than when simply garbed, and if for the 
 moment the splendor of her attire attracts, it is but a passing ad- 
 miration, little to be desired. 
 
 Simple, graceful, harmonious, and becoming attire, are far more 
 elegant than what is merely costly and showy. Neatness con- 
 sistency, and good taste will aid a lady in the effort to appear 
 well dressed quite as much as a score or two of unpaid bills, a 
 discontented husband or father, and a grumbling milliner and 
 dressmaker. 
 
 It would seem at first glance quite superfluous to remind a lady 
 that to be charming her attire must be neat, but it is a rule so 
 often violated that many otherwise beautiful toilets are marred 
 by its disregard. Neatness is not merely cleanliness, that we know 
 no lady would neglect ; it is that dainty and exquisite finish that 
 renders ladylike the most inexpensive fabric, the simplest style. 
 The arrangement of the hair, to be neat, does not require it to be 
 plastered to the head, but it does require that every curl, putF, or 
 braid, should be perfect in itself, and even the most careless ap- 
 pearance of arrangement will then never appear slovenly or blowzy. 
 So with the collar, cuffs, belt, sash, gloves, all the little details ; if 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 121 
 
 they are stiff in arrangement, the effect is bad, but let them each 
 and every one be irreproachable in themselves. The most exqui- 
 site lace and brooch will not atone for a collar that is wrinkled and 
 ill-fitting, even if it is strictly clean. 
 
 To ensure a perfect neatness, it is necessary to pay attention to 
 the arrangement of clothing when it is not worn, to allow no 
 creases, no dust, no unsightly folds or wrinkles to appear any- 
 where. Dresses will lose more beauty by hanging one night over 
 the back of a chair, than they would in a day of ordinary wear, 
 and should be carefully turned inside out and hung in the ward- 
 robe by a loop fastened to the belt, as soon as taken off, A deep 
 drawer should be provided for laces and muslins of every kind, 
 and nothing heavy allowed to come in contact with them. Gloves 
 will be handsome twice as long if pulled out into the original form 
 as soon as removed, and placed in a covered box. Jewelry of 
 every kind must be carefully preserved from dust as well as other 
 injury. 
 
 True economy is not mere cheapness, but it is a valuable addi- 
 tion to a lady's wardrobe. There is more real extravagance in the 
 purchase of a cheap article that you do not want, than in buying 
 one more expensive, that is really needed. Good fabrics are ever 
 the cheapest in the end, as the flimsy, miserable material requires 
 the same trouble to make, and lasts but half the time, never look- 
 ing so well. Especially in garments of which the fashion will not 
 change should a lady be careful to have substantial material that 
 will wear well, neither requiring constant mending nor frequent 
 replacing. Above all, cheap finery is to be condemned. Better, 
 by far, to have none at all, than to appear in imitation laces, thiu 
 ribbons, or flimsy silks. It is a mistake to suppose that one costly 
 article will redeem an ill-ar^-anged, tawdry, or cheap dress. It 
 only renders it more conspicuous, and is in detestable taste. The 
 same amount that one piece of finery would cost, had better, by 
 far, be divided, and the whole made more perfect. A velvet cloak 
 over a cheap delaine, will never look as well as a plain cloth wrap 
 over even the same dress, which may appear perfectly well if all 
 else harmonizes, but entirely out of place contrasted with a costly 
 wrap. 
 
 It may seem at a first glance useless to recommend fitness as 
 the close companion of economy, yet it will be found so. A gar- 
 
122 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 meni that will not fit the figure well, yet easily, will wear out in 
 half the time that it would if perfectly adapted to the form of the 
 wearer. The rule is much neglected, especially in underclothing, 
 but our chapter upon that should be carefully consulted by the 
 reader. Even in boots or shoes it is a mistaken economy to wear 
 them too large, for no shoes wear so well as those that fit the feet 
 perfectly. 
 
 In all cases where a lady is called upon to superintend house- 
 hold duties, or even to perform the lighter parts of housekeeping 
 cares, her dress should be simple and suited to her occupation, 
 the hair and feet neatly and perfectly dressed, always mark good 
 taste ; and a plain print dress, and large linen apron, may be as 
 perfect in their place, if clean and whole, as the most elaborate 
 ball-dress. Nothing can mark the sloven more distinctly than to 
 see a lady nursing her babe, or making pastry, in an old soiled 
 silk dress, with broken gaiter boots, and a blowzy head. 
 
 It is not advisable, while Fashion is so capricious, to buy many 
 dresses at once ; one for each occasion is an ample supply, and 
 more would be found out of date long before worn out. 
 
 It has often been observed that much of a lady's character may 
 be traced in her dress ; it is certain that her taste, economy and 
 neatness may be criticized if she violates the rules for them. An 
 unlaced boot, a torn glove, or a cap put on to cover stray tresses, 
 will tell their own story plainly. 
 
 To dress well must be a habit, the result of an educated mind, 
 early custom, and good taste ; and then time nor thought will be 
 wasted upon the subject. To be perfectly attired to-day, slovenly 
 to-morrow, extravagantly one day, meanly the next, is never to be 
 well dressed. To devote the entire time to the consideration of 
 clothing the body, to allow the love of finery to lead to debt and 
 extravagance, to give to dress the time that should be devoted to 
 serious reflection or pursuits, is to abuse the intellect God gave, 
 and betray a weak, vulgar mind. 
 
 A few words as to the care of a wardrobe will conclude this 
 chapter. 
 
 It is disgraceful to see clothing bearing conspicuous marks of 
 soil and neglect, a shawl rumpled as if never folded, a bonnet 
 bent out of shape, a collar wrong side out or with gaping holes 
 in it 
 
SANITARY HINTS. 123 
 
 A dress should always be hung, never folded. As soon as taken 
 off it should be dusted or brushed, and if it needs a hook, button, 
 or any repair, put in order at once, then hung up by a loop from 
 the waist. 
 
 A bonnet or hat should always be dusted with a bonnet-brush, 
 and covered with an old silk handkerchief when placed in the 
 band-box. A stand should be always in the box to prevent the 
 bonnet resting- on any part of the trimming. 
 
 A cloak should be folded lengthwise, and hung up wrong side 
 out ; a sacque folded lengthwise and kept in a deep drawer, ,cov- 
 ered by a silk handkerchief. 
 
 Ribbons should ba kept on wooden rollers; if white, paper 
 boxes lined with blue will keep their color. 
 
 Shawls should be carefully folded in the creases in which they 
 were bought, and will always look new. White ones should be 
 kept in a blue-lined box, or wrapped in blue paper. Lace shawls 
 should be folded in a square of old cambric. 
 
 All woolen dresses put aside for the summer should be carefully 
 folded, and packed with camphor. The greatest caie should be 
 taken to put them away perfectly clean. 
 
 Muslin dresses should be washed carefully, dried without starch 
 or ironing, and tightly rolled up in a towel, when put aside for the 
 winter. 
 
 SANITARY HINTS. 
 
 In concluding our little volume upon the art of dressing well, 
 we beg our reader's patience for a few moments while we make 
 one suggestion more important than the style, fashion taste, or 
 cost of a dress, and that is its adaptation to health. 
 
 Many a coffin has been filled, many an invalid's chamber occu- 
 pied, by a disregard of this consideration in the preparation of a 
 dress for some special occasion, or by habitual carelessness on the 
 subject. The injury to the lungs and spine from tight lacing will 
 never be balanced by the most exquisite ball-dress, and the winter 
 cold will penetrate thin covering for the head, even if the most 
 elaborate coiffure meets its chill. Too often the fear of injuring 
 the delicate laces of a ball-dress, or crushing the fragile flowers 
 
1 24 SAN IT A R Y HINTS. 
 
 of the head-dress, will induce the fair pleasure seeker to venture 
 forth on a cold night in wrap and hood far too hght for the season, 
 laying the foundation for future suffering, perhaps planting the 
 seeds for consumption. 
 
 With some, the utter disregard for the simplest preservatives of 
 health seems to amount to a positive mania. Take, for instance, 
 the fashionable young lady, but recently emancipated fiom the 
 school-room. All day during the Avinter the warmest clothing is 
 sought. The morning robe of soft cashmere or merino, silk-lined 
 and wadded ; the dress for promenade of heavy silk and velvet, 
 with the addition of warm furs ; the dinner-dress of thick poplin 
 or silk, all tending to increase the natural warmth of the body. 
 Evening comes ; the thermometer has fallen some few degrees, 
 light flakes of show are filling the air ; papa comes in to tea 
 shivering in his great coat ; the boys prophesy skating. Never 
 mind the cold ! Take off the warm poplin, the heavy under-skirts, 
 the thick stockings, the substantial boots or gaiters. Now over 
 the lightest of cambric skirts, two or three in number, put the 
 diess of delicate crape over silk of dantiest texture ; on the tiny 
 foot shp the finest silk stocking, the thinnest shi)per of satin ; 
 bare the snowy arms, the rounded shoulders and ivory throat ; 
 stay, you may put a necklace and some bracelets on ; arrange the 
 hair with fragile flowers, and send the victim forth to seek con- 
 sumption. Wrap her in a warm shawl 7 Put a thick hood on ■ 
 My dear friend, would you crush those puffs of frosty lace, ruin 
 that exquisite wreath 7 No, take care of the dress by all means, 
 and put nothing over the white shoulders but the lightest opera 
 cloak, and an equally inefficient covering upon the head. 
 
 Is this exaggeration 1 
 
 We are fully aware that no well-dressed lady wishes to appear 
 in a ball-room with crushed laces and crumpled hair, but a wrap 
 for evening may be made light as well as warm, and a hood of 
 w'added silk may be made large enough to accommodate the most 
 elaborate head-dress, and yet be very warm, Above ail, draw on 
 thick woolen leggins over the silk stockings, and over these put 
 lieavy walking boots, carrying the slippers in the hand. It will 
 take a servant but a few moments to remove the boots, and the 
 leg-Tins, with feet like a woolen stocking, will keep the silk stuck- 
 in<is under them clean and drv. 
 
SANITARY HINTS. 125 
 
 It is useless to speak against the bare shoulders and arms, since 
 fashion so imperatively demands them, but cover them with warm 
 sleeves and cape while exposed to out-door air. 
 
 It is certainly a matter of congratulation, however, that the re- 
 cent daring defiance of this absurd fashion in Paris seems likely 
 to result in a more modest and healthy style of evening-dress. 
 Many have followed the example of the fair dame who dared to 
 appear before the Empress in a dress that covered her neck and 
 shoulders, and Americans may, in time, also pay some regard to 
 the change. 
 
 In a climate so variable as that of our most fashionable cities 
 and watering places, it is a matter of astonishment that there are 
 not even more victims to the absurd custom of leaving exposed 
 so delicate a portion of tho, body as the throat and upper part of 
 the lungs. So trifling a cold taken there may be followed by 
 serious or fatal effects, that it is a matter to be desired by all that 
 high-necked dresses for evening parties may become fashionable. 
 Until they are so, probably the number of consumptive patients 
 will not perceptibly diminish. 
 
 It is a matter of taste whether the more healthful style will not 
 a.lso be the most becoming as well as modest. Looking upon an 
 evening assemblage, it must strike an observer how small a pro- 
 portion of the shoulders and arms so freely open, to criticism are 
 handsome enough to stand the test. Thin, sallow arms may be 
 made to look well in coverings of puffed lace, and shoulders to 
 which Nature has denied well-rounded proportions, will certainly 
 look better under tulle, blonde, or crape, than without such soft- 
 ening aids. 
 
 Tight lacing, that most disfiguring as well as harmful process, 
 will in time revenge itself upon the silly girl who practises it, not 
 only by disordered lungs and a distorted spine, but by the increased 
 size of the feet and hands, and by a permanent red n>se, which no 
 cosmetics will remove or remedy. The blood, compressed 'in its 
 natural course of circulation, will, when driven away from its 
 proper channels, certainly settle in the extremities, and the wasp- 
 like wai.st, in itself unnatural, and therefore a deformity, is a poor 
 compensation for a dram-drinker's nose on a lady's face, or hands 
 the color of raw beef. What barbarity of costume amongst the 
 Indians can exceed what was shown to the writer of this work not 
 
126 SANITARY HIJVTS.- 
 
 a month ago in a lavge city '? A corset of tin., covered with kid, 
 Avitli strings of leather, warranted to hcep the figure exactly as laced. 
 Some of these measured but fourteen inches round the waist, and 
 the writer was assured that, T^y perseverance, a full-grown woman 
 could gradually reduce her waist to that absurd circumference. 
 
 Medical books treat most eloquently of the harmful effects of 
 the process, and it would be well if the subject could be intro- 
 duced into the education of young women who may in ignorance 
 peril their health to obtain what, when gained, is a deformity. 
 
 The ribs are gradually driven from their natural position and en- 
 croach upon the Jungs, while these, compressed and cramped, be- 
 come weakened, and in time diseased, by their unnatural position. 
 Compare it to any visible process, and the result will be plainly 
 seen. Take a plant and crowd it into a place too small for its 
 growth, and see how soon it will shrivel av.ay and die. What 
 good mechanic would construct a piece of machine; y, and then, 
 after placing it where it could work freely and smoothly, would 
 gradually draw around it a wall that would cramp its action, limit 
 its space for play, and expect the hampered engine to perform its 
 work properly. 
 
 Corsets made to fit without compressing the form, are certainly 
 beneficial. They aid in the support of the spine, and will not in 
 any way injure the health. No dress can fit as smoothly without 
 as with the help of nicely-fitting corsets, but because they are 
 worn, it is not necessary that they should be a few inches too 
 small for the figure, and then drawn in until breathing becomes a 
 painful process, and the waist looks inadequate to sustain the 
 weight of the bust and shoulders. 
 
 Another penalty incurred by tight lacing is the constrained 
 movements entailed upon the fair victim. Grace of motion can 
 never be attained when the corsets force the figure into a compass 
 Nature never intended for it. Dancing, when tightly laced, is an 
 awkward process, for who can move gracefully and easily when 
 squeezed into unyielding corsets The blood, unable to circulate 
 freely, and excited by motion, mounts to the face, and the wasp-like 
 waist is paid for by a flushed, red face, a constrained, ungainly 
 motion, and a sense of suffocation that soon forces the dancer to 
 abandon the waltz or quadrille, and regain breath by quiet. 
 Compare the flushed, tightly- laced form with one gracefully mov- 
 
SANITARY HINTS. 127 
 
 ing in the dance, with free play for the lungs, and see if the pant- 
 ing, awkward dancer has the advantage, even if her waist has at- 
 tained the compass of fourteen inches by the use of tin corsets. 
 We who cry out at the barbarity of the Chinese who cripple the 
 feet of their ladies, would do well to look at home a httle, and see 
 if we are not equally barbarous in our way of cramping " God's 
 image." 
 
 Small feet are another of the objects to attain which health is 
 often sacrificed. We do not mean that sickness will follow the 
 habit of compressing the feet into a boot several sizes too small 
 for it, but the feet them>;elves will become diseased, covered with 
 corns or bunions, and sometimes actually deformed, while all 
 grace of carriage must be sacrificed. Unless we follow the fash- 
 ion of the Chinese entirely, and ladies consider their feet utterly 
 useless appendages, let us leave to them also the habit of pressing 
 toes, insteps, and heels, into stiff coverings too small for them. 
 
 There is a custom too entirely followed, that cannot be too 
 severely condemned by health seekers, and those of delicate con- 
 stitution. It is that of entirely discarding woolen under-garments 
 in warm weather, taking off thick flannels in the early summer, 
 and not wearing them again until fall, whatever may be the 
 changes of temperature If the weather is too sultry for thick 
 flannel to be worn in comfort, a thinner fabric should be substi- 
 stituted, and on chilly, damp days, the thicker woolen should be 
 worn, if only for temporary protection. An old colored woman, 
 remonstrating with her fair employer, who was fast sinking into 
 her grave with consumption, said : 
 
 " Lor, honey, how long you 'spects ole Aunt Hannah lib she 
 take off her fiannings ] Get all hot in de kitchen ober de stove, 
 a:i' den go out all drippy drippy wid de perspirashun, and no 
 fiannings to keep de chill off! Hey ! dis nigger know a heap bet- 
 ter 'n dat." 
 
 " But, Aimt Hannah, it is too warm for flannel," 
 
 " Dat's jes' de time yer wants 'em, honey. Get all hot and 
 den all cold, hey, dat ar nuff to kill a nelephant. You neber hear 
 ole Aunt Hannah coughy coughy, same as you does. Dat's cause 
 she wear good thick flannings." 
 
 " I don't see how you bear the warmth of them in the summer," 
 persisted the lady. 
 
lliS SANITARY HINTS. 
 
 " Sho, now, nufF sooner be het a little than get de consumption, 
 honey. You try 'em an' see if you don't stop dat coughy couoliy ! 
 Aunt Hannah nebber make ole bones in dis world, she take off her 
 flannings in summer time ! ' * 
 
 Without following the old darkey's advice literally, it would be 
 well for delicately-constituted people to take a hint from her. Too 
 often when exercise has heated the blood, the shawl or wrap is 
 thrown hastily aside, and a chill, unheeded in its lefreshing cool- 
 ness after suffering from heat. 
 
 The richest possession given us by our Heavenly Father is per- 
 fect health — a sound mind in a sound body. This is a direct gift 
 from God, but to us he grants also the power of wasting or pre- 
 serving it. It is the positive duty of every one to guard this pos- 
 session faithfully ; if once lost, time and money may be spent 
 unavailingly in the effort to regain it. The young are especially 
 bound to preserve it, that they may be enabled to fulfill their 
 manifest duties, and to ensure a vigorous and prosperous old age ; 
 nor should those of mature health neglect the precious charge, or 
 their children may have cause to mourn for them. 
 
 We acknowledge that there are other sanitary rules equally im- 
 perative, entirely independent of dress. Pure air is of paramount 
 importance, good food, exercise, and other precautions have their 
 bearing upon the health of all, and if tliese are neglected, no care 
 in mere dress will avail to remedy the disastrous effects. Yet. 
 while paying due attention to ail these points, dress, too, will have 
 its place in their good or ill effects. 
 
 Pure air sought in a dress too thin or too thick for the tem- 
 perature of the day, with a tiny bonnet offering a dozen dainty 
 lurking places for neuralgia, a pair of thin-soled boots courting 
 rheumatism, a thin sacque displaymg the fine figure, and giving 
 no warmth against a cutting wind, or other incongruities of attire, 
 will do more harm than good. 
 
 " I am sure I go out every day," said a fair invalid to the 
 writer ; " my physician says I must take exercise every pleasant 
 day, but I don't think it does me any good." 
 
 "Do you wrap up well, in these damp spring days'?" we in- 
 quired. 
 
 * A fact, -where mere instinct seemed the guide. 
 
SANITARY HINTS. 129 
 
 " Why, yes, I suppose so. Of course one don't want to look 
 like one's grandmother, in a great shawl, but I wear my poplin 
 suit if it is at all cool." 
 
 And meeting her a few days later, pinched with a chill March 
 wind, in her poplin suit, we were not surprised that her daily 
 walk was more injurious than beneficial. 
 
 So with good food. Plain, wholesome food will be found as 
 difficult to digest as any other if the digestive organs are all 
 cramped in tight corsets, or sudden chills are taken after eating, 
 by exposure to draughts, or untimely exercise. 
 
 It is a difficult matter to guard entirely against harmful expo- 
 sure as the dress is worn at the present day. While the heavy 
 chignon is over-heating the back of the head, the tiny bonnet is 
 insufficient protection for the top, and the ears are left to chill and 
 wind. 
 
 The short dress, convenient, cleanly, and delightful, cannot be 
 too highly commonded if the feet are carefully protected, and the 
 outside garment is suited to the season. Colds were cert i inly 
 often produced by the long skirts of a few years back, becoming 
 wet, and so chilling the ankles, and comfort certainly presides 
 over the reign of short dresses. 
 
 The happy medium between fashion and eccentricity in costume 
 is not easily found, but if the laws of health are in the balance, 
 let them weigh heavily. No beauty of the day, no effect pro- 
 duced by exquisite taste, no harmonious blending of colors, will 
 compensate for even a few days of illness, much less for those 
 scarcely perceptible signs of permanent disease, that are too apt 
 to be disregarded in the beauty of a new, fashionable, and be- 
 coming garment. It is not necessary to be ungainly in dress to 
 consult the laws of health. Garments may be handsome, well- 
 fitting, and graceful, and yet be of proper thickness and material. 
 Boots may show the pretty foot to advantage, and yet be thick- 
 soled and comfortable. Bonnets — well, we give that up f How 
 to wear a fashionable bonnet on a cold day, and escape ear-ache, 
 toothicbe, neuralgia, a red nose, and smarting eyes, is a problem, 
 we confess, we are unable to solve. Veils are the only hope of 
 those sensitive to such exposure, and may be gracefully draped 
 to aff)rd some protection. 
 
 When the choice must lie between health and fashion, let fash- 
 
]30 GENTLEMEN'S DRESS. 
 
 ion bo ignored. Fashions may change, but sickness must run its 
 course. A bonnet may be stared at a little, a cloak may excite a 
 smile, but the sick-bed brings worse miseries than the smile of a 
 silly votary of fashion, or the derision of the frivolous. 
 
 Think, when you buy a new garment, not only of its beauty, 
 but of its fitness for the health, and when your dresi^maker pleads 
 for a stiff, tight dress for fashion's sake, think also of the train of 
 evils that may follow the compression of kings and heart. Study 
 the laws of health as well as the fashion books, and consult your 
 reason and constitution as well as your taste. Your complexion 
 will be more beautiful in any dress if tinted by the hues of perfect 
 health, than it can be in the most becoming of dresses after it is 
 pallid or sallow with disease. Your figure will be more graceful 
 if it is allowed to develop as Nature intended, no matter what 
 garments you wear, than if you torture it out of shape to be fash- 
 ionably slim in proportion. You will be far more pleasing in a 
 .high dress, conversing easily and cheerfully, than in the most ex- 
 quisite of gossamer robes, with your graceful conversation inter- 
 rupted every moment by the hacking cough brought on by your 
 imprudence. 
 
 No one should ever walk in a dress, in gloves, or boots, that are 
 tight enough to interfere with the perfect circulation of the blood. 
 Pressure impedes this circulation, and produces coldness in the 
 extremities, and not only prevents tlie exercise from being bene- 
 ficial, but renders it positively injurious. 
 
 To be too warmly dressed while taking exercise is as injurious 
 as to be insufficiently clad, as a chill is apt to follow an excess of 
 heat. A sound judgment on these points is the best guide, re- 
 membering always that health once lost is a treasure difficult to 
 regain, even if it be not utterly gone. 
 
 GENTLEMEN'S DEESS. 
 
 It is a proverb in France that "It is not the cowl which makes 
 the monk," so " it is not the dress which makes the gentleman ; "' 
 yet, as the monk is known by his cowl, so may the innate refine- 
 ment that distinguishes the gentleman from the clown be known 
 
GENTLEMEN'S DRESS. 131 
 
 by his costume. It is not always the broad distinction between 
 the sloven and the coxcomb that the dress decides, but those finer 
 shades of difference that prove a habitual care in dress that will 
 safely avoid the one without becoming the other. 
 
 As men dress in the present day, there is but little that can be 
 said of color m relation to their ordinary habiliments. Had it 
 been our fortune to write in the days of past glories, when the 
 well-dressed gentleman kept in his wardrobe his several suits of 
 brown velvet and silver, of blue satin and gold, of green velvet 
 slashed with white satin and embroidered in scarlet ; coats of 
 cherry-colored calimanco, and peach-blossom hose ; endless varie- 
 ties of embroidered waistcoats ; silk stockings of every hue, and 
 breeches of numerous shades, it might have taxed our ingenuity 
 to draw the line where vulgarity begins and artistic taste ends. 
 We must take things as they are. 
 
 It is generally said, and it must be owned, with a great deal of 
 apparent truth, that gentlemen of the present day dress worse 
 than ladies, and yet make a greater parade of their finery. One 
 is a necessary consequence of the other. We are all vainer of the 
 arts in which we are only smatterers, than of those in which we 
 are proficient. Who ever shows his hideous caricatures of the 
 human countenance, and libellous "sketches from Nature," with 
 half the smirking complacency of the self-taught amateur ] 
 Ladies do, as a rule, give some steady thought to matters of dress, 
 its harmony, fitness, fashion, and with a view to the adoption of 
 what is most suitable to their own personal appearance, peculiar- 
 ities of figure, complexion, and age. 
 
 Gentlemen, however, as a rule when they do give any attention 
 to the subject, give it in such a languid, jerky, disconnected, su- 
 perficial sort of way, that, with all their tedious care, they only 
 succeed in dressing so as to render themselves conspicuous. 
 
 Now we are certainly not of the opinion that dress is a matter 
 to which it is advisable for young men to give a great amount of 
 serious consideration. There may indeed be some who have noth- 
 ing better to do ; who dawdle away the valuable hours in the club- 
 room, the drawing-room, or the billiard-room, and whose evenings 
 can be put, apparently, to no better use than lounging at the 
 opera, or in the concert-room These may find their tailor their 
 most absorb' ag and interesting companion, and dwell with em- 
 
132 GEjVTLE MEN'S iJJiESS. 
 
 pliasis upon tlie last cut for a vest, or the merits of rival neck-ties. 
 
 But such devotion to dress is unmanly There are few things, 
 not actually immoral, less to be desired than the name or charac- 
 ter of a fop. Most young men, however, who have a reasonable 
 conceit of themselves, pass through what has been called the 
 << dandy stage," in youth, just as in childhood they are subject to 
 measles, whooping-cough, and scarlet fever. Some excess in- 
 dress is then, at least, pardonable ; and as consideration will be 
 given to the question of how to dress, it is perhaps well that such 
 consideration should be intelligent. This will soon yield a man as 
 much knowledge on the subject as he will need. He will not have 
 to watch what form or color of dress some acknowledged leader 
 of fashion has lately adopted, or be entirely at the mercy of his 
 associates or his tailor, as to the fashion of his coat, but will dress 
 fitly and becomingly from habit, or, as Bacon said of a kindred 
 matter, " by a kind of felicity (as a musician that maketli an ex- 
 cellent air in music), and not by rule." 
 
 There is but little danger that a man who has much in his head 
 and heart worth cultivating will persist long in devoting much 
 time, thought, or attention, to dress. But the advantage of ac- 
 quiring once for all the art of dressing well, is, that once gained, a 
 man will continue to dress in a fit and becoming style by a sort of 
 intuition ; whilst, if it is never acquired, he will attire himself 
 awkwardly or conspicuously, with a great deal of trouble ; or, if 
 he take no care, will fall into the disgusting extreme of a sloven 
 by habit. 
 
 This habit of being well dressed will cover the necessities of 
 daily toilet cares, the first of which is appropriateness. In this 
 connection a gentleman's age is a most important consideration ; a 
 man of sixty is as unutterably absurd in the height of a prevail- 
 ing fashion, as a lad of nineteen would be in the breeches and 
 long stockings of the past century. As a general rule, a man who 
 has passed middle age, while he tolerates frequent changes of 
 fashion in his sons, should avoid them in his own attire. The 
 young man, on the other hand, should exercise some judgment in 
 following the caprices of fashion, and, while avoiding eccentricity 
 of costume, consult taste and position in his selection of clothing. 
 Any new fashion which imparts additional grace, ease, comfort, 
 and conveniecne, are certainly to be desired. Greater freedom in 
 
GErNTLEMEN'S DRESS. 133 
 
 any garment will be gladly hailed, while foppish extravagancies 
 are utterly discarded and ignored. 
 
 Some regard must be paid to profession and position in society. 
 Many a man is judged, however unjustly, merely by his appear- 
 ance, and although much outcry has been made at this test, it 
 certainly proves two points — tact and discretion. Position in so- 
 ciety demands some regard to appearance, and this a man of the 
 world v/ill give easily and gracefully, never following every absurd 
 freak of fashion in every minute detail of dress, yet avoiding such 
 solecisms as will mark carelessness, meanness, or disregard of the 
 prevailing modes appropriate to the time, place and season. 
 
 The great principle of dressing well, according to the style of 
 dress now prevailing amongst gentlemen, is simplicity. Alike in 
 the shape and make of the several garments, the materials, the 
 colors, the tout ensemble, simplicity is the rule. This ^strict sim- 
 plicity is really the sole distinction in dress to which a man of 
 taste should aspire, but simplicity of style requires most accurate 
 nicety in detail ; one must be simply well dressed, not carelessly 
 ill dressed. When Lord Castlereagh was in Vienna and was known 
 as the most distinguished looking man in the gay court, it was 
 not simply because he wore no profusion of orders or decorations, 
 Avhen others were glittering with them, but because his exquisite 
 nicety of costume had attained the perfection of strict simplicity. 
 So with Brummel, that prince of dandies. For the age in which 
 he lived, his dress was extremely simple, yet he gave his whole 
 time and attention to its finish of detail. 
 
 Taste therefore is synonymous with simplicity. Splendor, ex- 
 travagance and eccentricity must all be shunned. Colors must be 
 most carefully selected, if any are worn, and must suit complexion, 
 hair, eyes, and general appearance. It may seem superfluous to 
 tell a gentleman of to-day not to wear red, yellow, or blue, and 
 probably no one but a lunatic would wear a coat or trousers of 
 such colors, but the vagaries in gloves, vests and neckties are 
 often startling in their glaring hues and vulgar contrasts. 
 
 Looking at some of the lately prevalent fashions, it may seem 
 as if simplicity of dress was confined to the staid and middle-aged, 
 and utterly disregarded by the young ; but there are oscillations 
 in the most stable customs. In youth there is often, if not always, 
 some tendency to exaggeration; and, allowing for that, it willbe 
 
134 GENTLEMEN'S DRESS. 
 
 found that simplicity is even now the governing principle of a 
 gentleman's customary dress. This being so, the man who will 
 study simplicity, who will utterly discard whatever savors of 
 peculiarity and pretension, and will dress in a manly, becoming, 
 and unaffected way, will probably find that unconsciously, he is 
 dressing v»ell. But a young man may be reminded that in dress, 
 as in all else, he should cultivate manliness and gentlemanliness 
 as a part of the respect he owes to himself ; and neatness and pro- 
 l)riety with reference to place and occasion, as marking his sense 
 of the respect due to society. 
 
 It may be said that necessarily the principles of color, of har- 
 monv and contrast, and the laws which regulate the arrangements 
 of color Vv'ith reference to dress apply to the wardrobe of a gentle- 
 man as they do to that of a lady, and it would tlierefore be but a 
 useless repetition to give again the rules already laid down in this 
 volume. The subject has been thoroughly treated in detail in 
 previous chapters. 
 
 But we may say a few words of the nice distinction in dress 
 upon special occasions — what is to be worn at dinner, the evening 
 party, the opera, the social gatherings, in full dress, in the streets, 
 and in the house ? Much of this may be learned from intercourse 
 with good society , from consultation with an accomplished female 
 relative, or the Book of Etiquette, but a few hints taken from an 
 English work upon this subject will apply equally well to American 
 society. 
 
 '• A well-dressed man," he says, " does not require so much an 
 extensive as a well varied wardrobe. He wants a different cos- 
 tume for every season, and for every occasion ; but if what he 
 selects is simple rather than striking, he may appear in the same 
 clothes as often as he likes, as long as they are fresh, and appro- 
 priate to the season and the object. There are four kinds of coat 
 which he must have; a morning coat, a frock coat, a dress coat, 
 and an overcoat An economical man will do well with two of the 
 £rst, and one of each of the others 
 
 " In his own house, and in the morning there is no reason why 
 he should not wear out his old clothes. Some men, indeed, prefer 
 the delicious ease of a dressing-gown and slippers, and morning 
 visitors are kind enough to excuse them, especially in elderly or 
 literary men. 
 
GENTLEMEN'S DRESS. 135 
 
 " The best walking-dress is a suit of tweed, all of the same color, 
 ordinary boots, gloves not too dark for the coat, a scarf with a 
 pin for winter, or a small tie of one color in summer, a respectable 
 black hat and cane. The main point of the walking-dress is the 
 harmony of colors, but this should not be carried to the extent 
 of M de Maltzan, who some years ago made a bet to wear noth- 
 ing but pink, at Baden Baden, for a whole year, and had boots and 
 gloves of the same lively hue. He won his wager, but also the 
 soubriquet of ' Le Biable enflamme.'' 
 
 " The walking dress should vary according to the place and 
 hour. In the country or at the seaside a straw hat oi a wide 
 awake may take the place of the beaver, and the nuisance of 
 gloves be even dispensed with in the former. But in the city, 
 where a man is supposed to make visits as well as lounge in the 
 street, the frock-coat, faultless trousers and vest and kid gloves 
 are indispensable. Very thin boots should be avoided at all times, 
 and whatever clothes one wears they should be well brushed." 
 
 In ordinary half dress, or Avhat might be designated, the frock 
 coat costume a little liberty is allowed ; but not much, beyond 
 some variety of dark color in the coat can be ventured on without 
 attracting notice, Not long ago, some would occasionally indulge 
 in a frock coat of deep claret or of plum color, and very well it 
 looked if the rest of the dress was adapted to it; but care must 
 be taken even in such innocent wanderings. 
 
 Black is, of course, always safe, and black is generally becom- 
 ing to a gentleman be he of light, dark or florid complexion ; but 
 where color may be ventured upon, color is often preferable. 
 With light trousers, a light waistcoat always accords best ; the 
 • trousers should be of a quiet neutral tint. Patterns are danger- 
 ous, and apt to vulgarize any costume. Every now and then 
 colored waistcoats come into fashion. Should the fashion recur, 
 it must be remembered that the colors should be carefully chosen 
 and with reference to form and features, hair and complexion, 
 and patterns must be still more carefully selected. Bright colored 
 vests are very apt to look vulgar and out of keeping Avith the rest 
 of the attire. They had better be left to fast young men and- 
 flourishing parvenus. The same may be said of gaudy figured 
 neck-scarfs, fastened with a staring pin. These are intensely vul- 
 gar, wherever and whenever seen, and a man of taste will invari- 
 ably discard them. 
 
lag GENTLEMEN'S DRESS. 
 
 Colored neck-scarfs are very well at proper seasons, but never 
 gaudy ones. If worn, they should be quiet, plain, or at the most 
 oi an unobtrubive pattern and of a color that ■will perlectiy har- 
 monize with the coat and waistcoat, and not seriously disaccord 
 with complexion, moustache or beard — if the latter hirsute ap- 
 pendage be indulged in. The effect, for instance of a sandy beard, 
 will never be improved by a brilliant red or yellow neck-scarf. 
 With a colored scarf the waistcoat should not be too open, and the 
 pin should be of moderate size, and its head either artistic in pat- 
 tern, or a small gem. If a narrow necktie be preferable, the bow 
 must not be too formal, nor the ends too long. Some years ago, 
 ribbons were worn for neckties, and were actually worn of the 
 brightest colors two yards long. With the narrow tie, a more open 
 waistcoat may be worn than with the scarf, but not so open as to 
 make a marked display of shirt front. 
 
 The linen must on all occasions be scrupulously neat, devoid of 
 all niminy-piminy insertion, embroidery or finery, and the studs 
 plain, but such as will bear examination as fair examples of art, 
 workmanship and good taste. 
 
 Thus dressed for the city promenade, it will be a young man's 
 own fault if he is not presentable. His appearance will, at any 
 rate, at first commend him, even if bis conversation cancels instead 
 of improving the first impression. 
 
 In a walking dress, where no calls are. to be made, where you 
 adhere to a frock-coat, one of very dark color, not black, will be 
 best, and with it trousers and vest of gray or other light color, or 
 at the proper season an entire suit of some quiet neutral tint or 
 mixed goods. A wash waistcoat is also allowable of white, buff 
 or some pale hue, as the very light greenish-gray worn a year or . 
 two ago. 
 
 Bright colored gloves are an utter abomination. The undress 
 walking or country suit requires to be obviously easy, appropri- 
 ate and convenient. The shooting jacket, under almost any of 
 the hundred and one tailor's varieties, is a manly and universally 
 becoming garment. When of one color, and the waistcoat and 
 trousers of another and lighter hue, the effect is decidedly better, 
 than when all are cut from the same piece, or the coat and waist- 
 coat are of one, and the trousers of a different color ; but in this 
 fashioii will generally carry the day. 
 
GENTLEMEN'S DRESS. 137 
 
 Large patterns are simply detestable ; few men look well in 
 them, and most are utterly vulgarized by their use. They are 
 distinctive of a racing, gambling set of men generally, and entirely 
 avoided by gentlemen. The usual costume for travelling, prom- 
 enade, morning meeting for archery, croquet or other out door 
 pursuit, worn by a well-dressed man will be always extremely 
 simple. The coat must be loose, the trousers easy ; the hat of 
 soft felt or a comfortable straw or low cloth hat is best, with 
 sufficient brim to shade the eyes. Tightly fitting*suits and hard, 
 flat-brimmed hats should be left to jockeys, who may also appro- 
 priate the gaudy neckties, and brilliant waistcoats. 
 
 Evening dress, being confined to black and white, may, as far as 
 color i? concerned, be left unnoticed. Only we may express a 
 wish that some gentleman of sufficiently pre-eminent position 
 would have good taste and decision enough to break through the 
 absurd restriction. Every gentleman feels the absurdity of dis- 
 •guising himself like an undertaker or a waiter, every time he goes 
 to a dress party, and yet no one has the courage to exchange the 
 gloomy attire for one more suited to himself and the festive occa- 
 sion. Drawing-rooms must have looked very different in our 
 grandfathers' days. 
 
 As it is, there is nothing to be done but to take care that the 
 costume is marked by an air of ease, refinement, appropriateness, 
 and quiet good taste. 
 
 For all evening-dress black cloth trousers, waistcoat and coat 
 aie de regueur ; the necktie for a ball, opeia, and soiree must be 
 white of silk, or fine linen cambric, without embroidery ; for 
 smaller evening parties the black silk-tie is allowable, but must be 
 small and perfectly simple. The shirt front must be plain, in 
 small or broad plaits, according to taste. Gloves must be white. 
 Some indeed wear delicately tinted gloves, but white is the rule. 
 
 There are additions, however, that will go far to spoil the effect 
 of even the most exquisitely arranged dress. The wearing a 
 number of rings is always a mark of effeminacy, and too often the 
 rings are ill matched. Only one ring at a time should ever be 
 worn. A signet or a mourning ring is allowable to any one, but 
 if the former, it should be of artistic value, unless it is valuable as 
 a souvenir. Almost the only gem ring that is becoming to a 
 manly band, is a moderate-sized diamond, and that is less suit- 
 
138 GENTLEMEN'S DRESS. 
 
 al)le than either of those already mentioned. The bunch of 
 meanin2;less trinkets it is so usual to see dandling at the waist- 
 coat — charms that have no charm in them for any eyes but those 
 of the wearer — would be best dispensed with altogether. If some 
 are worn, remember that the fewer there are the better will be 
 the effect, and the only way to justify the taste in wearing them 
 at all, is to wear such as are of artistic value, if such can be found. 
 
 At the risk of repetition we give a few hints on jewelry from the 
 English authority before quoted. He says : 
 
 " Jevv-els are an ornament to women, but a olemish to men. 
 They bespeak either effeminacy, or a love of display. The hand 
 of a man is honored' in working, for labor is his mission ; and the 
 hand that wears its riches on its fingers, has rarely worked hon- 
 estly to win them. The best jewel a man can wear is his honor. 
 Let that be bright and shining, well set in prudence, and all others 
 must darken before it. But as we are savages, and must have 
 some silly trickery to hang about us, a little, but very little, con- 
 cession may be made to our taste in this respect. I am quite 
 serious when I disadvise you from the use of nose-rings, gold 
 anklets, and hat-bands studded with jewels ; for when I see a 
 young man of this nineteenth century dangling from his watch- 
 chain a dozen silly charms (often the only ones he posesses), which 
 have no other use than to give a fair coquette a legitimate subject 
 on which to open a silly flirtation, and which are revived from the 
 lowest superstitions of dark ages, and sometimes darker races, I 
 am justified in beheving that some South Af;ican chieftain, suffi- 
 ciently rich to cut a dash, might introduce with success the most 
 peculiar fashions of his own country. However this may be, there 
 are already sufficient extravagancies prevalent among our young 
 men to attack. 
 
 " The man of good taste will wear as little jewelry as possible. 
 One handsome signet ring on the little finger of the left hand, a 
 scarf pin which is neither large nor showy, nor too intricate in its 
 design, and a light, rather thin watchguard, with a cross-bar, are 
 all that he ought to wear. But, if he aspires to more than this, he 
 should observe the following rules : 
 
 " First : Let everything be real and good. False jewelry is not 
 only a practical lie, but an absolute vulgarity, since its use arises 
 from an attempt to appear richer or grander than its wearer is. 
 
GENTLEME]>f'S DRESS. 139 
 
 " Secondly: Let it be simple. Elaborate studs, waistcoat but- 
 tons, and wrist links, are all abominable. The last, particularly, 
 should be as plain as possible, consisting of plain gold ovals, with, 
 at most, the initials engraved upon them. Diamonds and brilliants 
 are quite unsuitable to men, whose jewelry should never be con- 
 spicuous. If you happen to possess a single diamond of great 
 value, you may wear it on great occasions as a ring, but no more 
 than one ring should ever be worn by a gentleman. 
 
 " Thirdly : Let it be distinguished rather by its curiosity than 
 its brilliance. An antique or bit of old jewelry possesses more 
 interest, particularly if you- are able to tell its history, than the 
 most splendid modem production of the goldsmith's shop. 
 
 " Fourthly : Let it harmonize with the colors of your dress. 
 
 " Fifthly : Let it have some use. Men should never, like wo- 
 men, wear jewels for mere oriiament, whatever may be the fashion 
 of Hungariap nobles and deposed Indian rajahs with jackets cov- 
 ered with rubies. 
 
 " The precious stones are reserved for ladies, and even the scarf 
 pins are more suitable without them. 
 
 " The dress that is both appropriate and simple can never ofifend, 
 nor render its weai-er conspicuous, though it may distinguish him 
 for his good taste. But it will not be pleasing unless clean and 
 fresh. We cannot quarrel with a poor gentleman's threadbare 
 coat, if his linen be pure, and we see that he has never attempted 
 to dress beyond his means, or unsuitably to his station. But the 
 sight of decayed gentility and dilapidated fashion, may call forth 
 our pity, and, at the same time, prompt a moral. 
 
 " ' You have evidently sunken,' we say to ourselves. ' But whose 
 fault is it ? Am I not led to suppose that the extravagance which 
 you evidently once revelled in has brought you to what I now see 
 you r 
 
 " While freshness is essential to being well dressed, it will be a 
 consolation to those who cannot afford a heavy tailor's bill, to re- 
 flect that a visible newness in one's clothes is as bad as patches 
 and darns, and to remember that there have been celebrated 
 dressers who would never put on a new coat till it had been worn 
 two or three times by their valets. On the other hand, there is no 
 excuse for untidiness, holes in the boots, a broken hat, torn gloves, 
 and so on. Indeed, it is better to wear no glove at all than a pair 
 
140 GENTLEMEN'S DRESS. 
 
 full of holes. There isTiothing to be ashamed of in a pair of bare 
 hantls, if they are clean, and the poor can still afford to have their 
 shirts and shoes mended, and their hats ironed. It is certainly 
 better to show signs of neatness than the reverse, and you need 
 sooner be ashamed of a hole than of a darn. 
 
 "If you are economical with your tailor, you can be extrava- 
 gant with your laundress. The beau of forty years back j)ut on 
 three shirts a day, but, except in hot weather, one is sufficient. 
 Of course, if you change your dress in the evening, you must 
 change your linen too. Quantity is better than quality in linen. 
 Nevertheless, it should be fine and well spun. The loose cuff, 
 which we borrowed from the French some few years ago, is a 
 great impiovement on the old tight wristband, and. indeed, it must 
 be borne in mind that anything which binds any part of the body 
 tiglitiy, impedes the circulation, and is, therefore, unhealthy as 
 well as ungraceful. 
 
 " The necessity for a large stock of linen depends'on a rule far 
 better than Bruramel's of three shirts a day, viz : 
 
 " Change your linen whenever it is at all dirty, 
 
 " This is the best guide with regard to collars, socks, pocket-hand- 
 kerchiefs, and under-garments No rule can be laid down for the 
 number we should wear per week, for everything depends upon 
 circumstances. Thus, in the country, all linen remains longer 
 clean than in town ; in dirty, wet, or dusty weather, our socks get 
 soon dirty, and must be often changed ; or, if we have a cold, to 
 say nothing of the i)Ossible, but not probable, case of tear-shed- 
 ding, on the departure of friends, Ave shall want more than one 
 pocket-handkerchief per diem. In fact, the last article of modern 
 civilization is put to so many uses, is so much displayed, and liable 
 to be called into action on so many various engagements, that we 
 should always have a clean one in our pockets Who knows when 
 it may not serve us in good stead 1 Who can tell how often the 
 corner of the delicate cambric will have to represent a tear, which, 
 like difficult passages in novels, is ' left to the imagination ' 1 Can 
 a man of any feeling call on a disconsolate widow, for instance, 
 and listen to her woes, without at least pulling out that expressive 
 appendage 7 Can any one believe in our sympathy if the article 
 in question is a dirty one 1 There are some people who, like the 
 clouds, only exist to weep, and King Solomon, though not one of 
 
GENTLEMEirS DRESS. 141 
 
 them, has given them great encouragement in speaking of tlie 
 house of mourning. We are bound to weep with them, and we 
 are bound to weep elegantly. 
 
 '• Elegance, however, in the handkerchief, must consist entirely 
 in its own delicacy of texture and snowy whiteness. For a gen- 
 tleman to carry an embroidered or laced pocket-handkerchief is an 
 absurd affectation, and a colored-bordered one is vulgar in the ex- 
 treme A broad hemstitched border is indeed allowable, and the 
 initials or monogram may be embroidered in white in one corner, 
 but no further ornament is in good taste. The size is also to be 
 considered ; a very small one has an effeminate appearance, while 
 one of extVa large size makes a man look as if he was carrying a 
 • sheet or a tablecloth. The medium gentleman's handkerchief is 
 the most elegant size. 
 
 " I must not close this chapter without assuring myself that my 
 reader knows more on its subject now than he did before. I take 
 it for granted that he knows what it is to be in a dress-suit and in 
 an undress costume. To be in an undress, is to be dressed for 
 work and ordinary occupations ; to wear a coat which you do not 
 fear to spoil, and a necktie which your, inkstand will not object to, 
 but your acquaintances might. To be dressed, on the other hand, 
 since by dress we show our respect for society at large, or the 
 persons with whom we are to mingle, is to be clothed in the gar- 
 ments which said society pronounces to be suitable to particular 
 occasions ; so that evening-dress in the morning, morning-dress in 
 the evening, and a scarlet coat for walking, may all be called un- 
 dress, if ^ not positively bad dress. But there are shades of being 
 * dressed,' and a man is called 'little dressed,' • well dressed,' and 
 ' much dressed,' not according to the quantity, but the quality of 
 his coverings. 
 
 " To be 'little dressed,' is to wear old things, of a make that is 
 no longer the fashion, having no pretension of elegance, artistic 
 beauty, or ornament. It is also to wear lounging clothes on occa- 
 sions which demand some amount of precision. To be 'much 
 dressed ' is to be in the extreme of the fashion, with bran new 
 clothing, jewelry, and ornaments, with a touch of extravagance 
 and gayety in your colors. Thus to wear patent leather boots and 
 yellow gloves in a quiet morning stroll is to be much dressed, and 
 certainly does not differ immensely from being badly dressed. To 
 
142 GENTLEMEN'S DRESS. 
 
 be ' well dressed ' is- the happy medium between these two. which 
 is not given to every one to hold, inasmuch as good taste is a rare 
 gift, and is a sine qua non thei-eof. Thus while you avoid orna- 
 ment and all fastness, you must cultivate fashion, that is, good style, 
 in the make of your clothes. A man must not be made by his 
 tailor, but should make him, educate him, give him his own good 
 taste. To be well dressed is to be dressed precisely as the occa- 
 sion, place, weather, your height, figure, position, age, complexion, 
 and remember it, your means require. It is to be clothed without 
 peculiarity, pretension, or eccentricity ; without violent colors, 
 elaborate ornament, or senseless fashions, introduced often by 
 tailors, for their own profit. Good dressing is to w^ar as Lttle 
 jewelry as possible, to be scrupulously neat, clean, and fresh, and 
 to carry your clothes as if you did not give them a thought. 
 
 " Then too, there is a scale of honor among clothes, which must 
 not be forgotten. Thus, a new coat is more honorable than an 
 old one, a shooting-coat than a dressing-gown; a frock-coat than a 
 shooting-coat, a tail-coat than a frock-coat. There is no honor at 
 all in a blue swallow-tailed coat, except on an old gentleman who 
 will wear the accompaniment of brass buttons and a buff waist- 
 coat. 
 
 " There is more honor in an old imiform than in a new one, in 
 one with a bullet hole in it, than in one unstained or unspotted. 
 
 •' There is more honor in a fustian jacket and smock-frock, than 
 in a dress-coat, because they are types of labor, which is far more 
 honorable than lounging. 
 
 " Again, light clothes are generally j^laced above dark ones, be- 
 cause they cannot be so long worn, and are, therefore, proofs of 
 expenditure, alias money, Avhich in this world is a commodity 
 more honored than every other ; but, on the other hand, tasteful 
 dress, is always more honorable than that which is only costly. 
 Light gloves are more esteemed than dark ones, and the prince of 
 glove colors is, undeniably, lavender. 
 
 " ' I should say Jones was a fast man,' said a friend to me one 
 day, * for he wears a white hat.' If this idea of my companion's 
 be right, fastness in dress may be said to consist mainly in pecu- 
 liarity. There is certainly only one step from the sublimity of 
 fastness, to the ridiculousness of snobbery, and it is not always 
 easy to say where the one ends, and the other begins. 
 
jj GENTLEMEN'S DRESS. 143 
 
 i "A dandy, on the other hand, is the clothes on a man not a 
 
 j man in clothes, a living lay-figure, who displays much dress, and 
 
 ' is quite satisfied if you praise that without taking heed of him. 
 
 j A sloven, is in the opposite extreme ; never dressed enough, and 
 
 I always very carelessly ; but he is as bad as the other. 
 
 i ' The off-hand style of dress, suits only an off-hand character, 
 
 ! It was, at one time, the fashion to affect a certain negligence, which 
 
 I was called poetic, and supposed to be the result of genius. An 
 
 j ill-tied, if not positively untied cravat was a sure sign of an un- 
 
 brindled imagination ; and a waistcoat was held together by one 
 
 button only, as if the swelling soul in the wearer's ' bosom had 
 
 burst all the rest. If, in addition to this, the hair was unbrushed 
 
 and curly, you were certain of passing for a 'man of soul.' I 
 
 should not recommend any young man to adopt this style, even if 
 
 he can mouth a great deal, and has a bountiful stock of quotations 
 
 from the poets. It is of no use to show me the clouds, unless I 
 
 can positively see you in them, and no amount of negligence in 
 
 your dress or person will convince me you are a genius, unless 
 
 you produce an octavo volume of poems published by yourself. 
 
 I confess I am glad that the negligee style, so common in novels of a 
 
 few years ago, has been succeeded by neatness What we want is 
 
 real ease in the clothes, and, for my part, I should rejoice to see 
 
 the Knickerbocker style generally adopted. 
 
 " Besides the ordinary occasions already mentioned, there are 
 other special occasions requiring a change of dress. Most of our 
 sports, together with marriage (which some people include in 
 sports) come under this head. 
 
 " In sporting dress, the less change Ave make the better, where 
 if we are dressed too accurately, we are liable to be subjected to 
 a comparison between our skill and our clothes ; for shooting and 
 fishing it is not good taste to be very well dressed. An old coat 
 with large pockets, gaiters or large boots, with thick soles, a wide 
 awake hat, and at the end of the day a well-filled bag or b.asket, 
 make a respectable sportsman. 
 
 ' ' For cricket and base-ball you want a flannel suit, quite plain, 
 a flannel cap, and shoes with spikes in them, unless you belong to 
 a club and wear a uniform. 
 
 " For riding, the trousers must be firmly strapped under the 
 boot, and a cap is more comfortable than a hat. 
 
144 GENTLEMEN'S DRESS. 
 
 " Skating requires a loose dress, for perfect grace and ease of 
 motion ; a fur cap is allowable and fur gloves, and an overcoat 
 should always be in readiness to put on as soon as the violent 
 exercise is over. 
 
 " Sailing or rowing, like base-ball, is apt to include a club uni- 
 form. If not, a flannel shirt, with a collar of the same, black neck- 
 tie, and heavy trousers will be at once comfortable and appro^jri- 
 ate. 
 
 " Travelling suits are best protected by a long, loose, linen over- 
 coat and duster, with a high stand-up collar that may be buttoned 
 close to protect the white collar and necktie under it. 
 
 " The dress for a bridegroom differs but little from a full-dress 
 morning custom. The daj^s are gone by when gentlemen were 
 married in white satin breeches and waistcoat In these days men 
 show less joy in their attire at the fond consummation of their 
 hopes, and more in their faces. A very dark blue frock-coat, or a 
 black one, although many consider the latter color worn at a wed- 
 ding ominous, trousers of the same, a white waistcoat, and in some 
 cases, light trousers suffice for the ' happy man.' The necktie 
 should be of white linen cambric, perfectly plain. Patent leather 
 boots are not amiss, but well polished ones are also appropriate ; 
 the day of pumps is happily over. White kid gloves are a rule. 
 Gloves and linen of spotless purity are typical — for in these days 
 types are as important as under Hebrew lawgivers — of the sim- 
 ilar purity of the heart and mind which are supposed to exist in 
 the wearer. After all, a bridegroom cannot be too well dressed, 
 for the more gay he is the greater the compliment to the bride, so 
 for once, he may don diamond studs, his diamond ring, handsome 
 watch chain, and even put a flower in his. button-hole, to show the 
 exultations of his heart. Colors he may not wear in waistcoat or 
 necktie, but if he is afraid of a black coat, by all means let him 
 wear a dark-colored one." 
 
 The mourning-dress usually worn by a gentleman is a full suit of 
 black broad cloth, a crape band round the hat, of depth governed 
 by the closeness of the black worn, and jet studs and cufl^ buttons. 
 A widower wears a band the width of his hat, and this is the deep- 
 est mourning worn. The fashion, prevalent we know, of wearing 
 only the crape hat-band for mourniuij, and the rest of the dress of 
 the usual light or dark colors has the advantages only of conveni- 
 
GE^ TL EM EN'S DRESS. 1 45 
 
 ence and economy, but is making a farce of mourning ; it would 
 be quite as appropriate for a lady to wear a suit of colored clothes 
 with a heavy crape veil thrown over her bonnet. If mourning 
 is worn at all, the entire dress should be of black. A straw hat 
 is allowable in summer, with the crape band, and in lighter mourn- 
 ing gloves of dark gray or of lavender are suitable ; studs of pearl 
 set in jet, or jet bound with gold are also worn in lighter mourn- 
 ing dress, while the hat band is cu^ narrower as the rest of the 
 dress is lightened. 
 
 If a gentleman in summer indulges in the luxury of full suits 
 of white linen, it is imperative tliat they be of spotless whiteness. 
 Such a dress is a luxury at best, and to wear it more than once is 
 impossible, as it will show signs at once of even a few hours wear. 
 
 There are two articles of a gentleman's dress to which too much 
 attention cannot be given — a neat hat, and a pair of clean, well- 
 fitting boots. The remark has been made in connection with 
 ladies' dress, that there is absolute economy in a well-fitting shoe 
 or gaiter ; the same is still more applicable to gentlemen, as they 
 are likely to have more out-door exercise. An ill-fitting boot, 
 however bright and spotless it may be, will mar the effect of the 
 most careful toilet, and will wear out much faster both themselves 
 and the stockings inside them. 
 
 The high hat is the only covering suitable to all occasions. 
 Fashions change and differ in all other styles, and these may only 
 be used in connection with a walking or business suit ; they can- 
 not be worn by any one who cares at all for appearances, when 
 visiting, or mingling in general society. 
 
146 HINTS FOR DRESSING WELL. 
 
 ONE HUNDRED HINTS EOR DRESSING WELL. 
 
 1. CojTSULT suitability of occasion, and where any doubt of the 
 style of dress exists, avoid over-dressing. A little fault on the 
 other side is preferable to this, as a lady may be more simply cos- 
 tumed than those around her, and appear to greater advantage 
 than if she is more showy in her apparel and ornaments than her 
 companions. 
 
 2. Carefully select, in shopping, the best material you can af- 
 ford to purchase, rather than the most showy. A dress made of 
 good fabric, if it is only a domestic gingham, will not only, be 
 more serviceable than any fabric made showily but worthlessly, 
 for mere effect. 
 
 3. In dressing for a pic-nic, water-party, croquet-meeting, or 
 any other out-door gathering, select, when practicable, an attire 
 that will wash. It is well, also, to be provided with a waterproof 
 cloak and hood, easily carried, and even if a little troublesome 
 while the sun shines, invaluable if a sudden shower attacks the 
 pleasure party. 
 
 4. Avoid carefully the extreme of the fashion. It is in far better 
 taste to moderate any extravagance of the capricious goddess 
 than to allow her to govern entirely every puff or band. If bon- 
 nets are worn very small, do not aim to make yours invisible. If 
 they are to be large, it is not advisable to rival the proportions of 
 a market-basket. 
 
 5. Do not aim at eccentricity. A certain personality and be- 
 comingness of attire should be studied, but utterly to ignore the 
 prevailing modes, is quite as apt to be a proof of a weak mind as 
 of a strong one. It is no sign of genius te wear a long coat when 
 every one else wears a short one, and the Bohemian style is quite 
 as apt to be aped by the empty-headed as to be originated by the 
 talented. 
 
 6. Avoid glaring contrasts, in color, material, or value. A real 
 
HINT.i FOR DRESSING WELL. 147 
 
 lace shawl will look as badly over a cheap lawn dress, as a rich 
 silk will under a coarse iinen wrap. 
 
 7. Keep in scrupulous order your gloves, boots, and fine linens, 
 or iaces. There is no surer proof of a slattern than to see holes 
 in tlie gloves, soiled collars or cuffs, or ill-fitting, shabby boots. 
 If your income will not allow kid gloves and lace collars, wear 
 cotton gloves and linen collars, but let them fit nicely, and be always 
 in exquisitely nice order. Be sure a neat linen collar will more 
 surely mark the lady, than a torn or soiled one of expensive lace. 
 
 8. Never wear any imitation finery. If real lace, real furs, real 
 velvets, and real jewelry, are not at your command, wear none at 
 all. It is not a mark of gentility to appear in expensive orna- 
 ments, or lace, but it is a mark of vulgarity to wear what is ohly 
 an imitation of a valuable article. 
 
 9. Cheap goods will generally be found an utter extravagance. 
 If you pay for an article what it is fairly worth, you have then a 
 right to complain if it proves inferior to what was represented to 
 
 you, 
 
 10. In selecting velvets and ribbons, examine the edge careful- 
 ly. Inferior goods of this class will be found to have thin, broken 
 edges, while those of first-rate quality are invariably firm and 
 even. * 
 
 11. In arranging trimming, always allow about three inches to 
 the yard for corners and fullness. If a trimming is very elabo- 
 rate, an even larger allowance will be found useful. 
 
 12. Goods that will turn, or which are exactly the same on both 
 sides, will be found not only more easily altered or made over, 
 but more economical in the first making. 
 
 13. Pattern dresses should be carefully selected, and bought 
 only of reliable persons, as they are apt to prove utterly useless 
 when cut, from deficiency of material, or bad management of the 
 pattern. 
 
 14. Avoid glaring colors ; they are becoming to but few, and 
 always in bad taste, from being too conspicuous. 
 
 15. A travelling-dress should be quiet in color, strong in fabric, 
 and simple in make. 
 
 16. Dresses made to be worn in a car, upon a boat, or in omni- 
 
148 HINTS FOR DRESSINa WELL. 
 
 buses, should be made to bear crushing well. Stiff material, 
 elaborately ruffled or puffed, will present a lamentable contrast to 
 its first freshness, after an hour's ride in a crowded omnibus. 
 Soft woolens, whether thick or thin, stand this contact better than 
 any other material, excepting a first-rate quality of silk. 
 
 17. lu the selection of stockings, examine the heels. These 
 are generally thin and poor when the hosiery is of an inferior 
 quality. German and English hosiery, especially the latter, will 
 be found most economical in the end, though the first outlay is 
 larger than tliat for American goods. 
 
 18 Never force the season. The most exquisite and tasteful of 
 spring attire will never appear well if worn too early in the season, 
 on a windy March day, or under a threatening, gloomy sky. 
 Even if the dress you would discard is somewhat worn, it will 
 look better upon an unseasonable day, than new finery worn too 
 soon. 
 
 19. If you discard flannels in summer, always keep an inter- 
 mediate suit to wear early in the fall, and late in the spring, be- 
 fore assuming or rejecting your thicker ones. In a variable cli- 
 mate it is not only uncomfortable, but positively dangerous, to 
 take off winter flannels at once, even on the warmest day. Gauze 
 merino, or Angola flannel, is a good temporary substitute. 
 
 20. Ready-made garments should be exam'ned carefully in all 
 the seams, and especially at the end of the stitchings. Many who 
 buy them find at the first washing that, while the main part of the 
 sewing is in good order, the ends of every seam have given wayj 
 and present a slovenly appearance, with a i)rospect of hours given 
 to repair what should last as long as the garment. 
 
 21. It is not safe to purchase goods which are very highly dre;3sed. 
 They will be often found of an inferior equality, and what at first 
 seemed thickness or durability of material, too often proves a trick 
 of dressing. 
 
 22. In selecting boots, the foot will present a better appearance, 
 and the boots will wear much better, if full half an inch longer 
 than the foot. Not only does a boot that is exactly a fit in length 
 wear out soon at the most conspicuous place, but it ruins tlie 
 shape of the foot, by forcing it to develop in its breadth what is 
 crowded in length. This should be especially remembered in the 
 
HINTS FOR DRESSING WELL. 149' 
 
 purchase of children's boots or shoes, as a short boot in childhood 
 will surely make an ugly foot in maturity. 
 
 23. Over-dressed children are as attractive as organ men's 
 monkeys. At no time of life is simphcity of attire so beautiful 
 as in childhood or youth. 
 
 24. Never vs^ear' jewelry in the street. Such articles as are ne- 
 cessary to keep the diess in order are admissible, but necklaces, 
 bracelets, and rings in profusion, are in excessively bad taste in 
 walking attire. 
 
 25. Elaborate street-dresses are in bad taste very early in the- 
 day, in dull, gloomy weather, or in errands and to markets, pro- 
 vision scores, or business places.- 
 
 26. Evening-dresses should be purchased in establishments 
 where they can be selected by artificial light. Colors and com- 
 binations that are exquisite by daylight, will often fail to be effec- 
 tive when under the blaze of a chandelier, or exposed to the test 
 of wax-light. 
 
 27. In making evening- dresses, trimmings and ornaments should 
 always be tested by the same artificial light in which they are to 
 be worn. The efiect of gas-light upon color is often very differ- 
 ent from that- of oil or candle-light. 
 
 28. Dull or neutral-colored gloves are generally in better taste 
 than bright ones, unless the latter are worn in contrast to a 
 sombre-tinted dress. To have a bright glove to match a bright 
 dress, is an abomination to the eyes of people of taste. 
 
 29 Colored boots, although they may be in fashion, are gener- 
 ally theatrical in effect, and seldom in good taste. They have 
 also the disadvantage of being generally unbecoming to the foot. 
 
 30- It is only upon very full-dress occasions that trimming is 
 admissible about the feet. Huge bows or rosettes upon walking- 
 boots are never pretty, even if fashionable. Neatly-fifcting, plain 
 walking-boots are in better taste. 
 
 31. It is unsafe as well as indelicate to adopt too far any fash- 
 ion which exposes the neck in the street. . Dresses cut low in 
 front should only be worn in the house, even if fashion sanctions 
 their appearance at the promenade. 
 
 32. Carriage-dresses may be more elaborate than those worn 
 
150 . HINTS FOR DRESSING WELL. 
 
 for walking. More delicate and costly fabrics will look well in a 
 handsome barouche than can with propriety appear on the side- 
 walk. 
 
 33. Parasols should be selected with some attention to their be- 
 coming or unbecoming effect, A pallid face seen in the reflected 
 light of a pale-green parasol, will not look better than a florid, 
 over-heated one under a canopy of rose-color. 
 
 34. Be careful in alterincr an old garment into a new style that 
 the material is worthy of promotion. It was rather tiresome to 
 people of good taste to see how shabby some of the old shawls 
 twisted into Arabs had become. It by no means follows that al- 
 teration in shape will renovate material. 
 
 35. Consult your figure as well as your face in the choice of 
 your dress, and if you cannot follow the fashion without appear- 
 ing ridiculous, modify the fashion. 
 
 36. In dressing the hair, be careful that it conforms to the style 
 of the dress. An elaborate coifu?'c is in bad taste with an unpre- 
 tending dress, while rich attire requires also some attention to 
 head-dress, or arrangement of locks. 
 
 37. Linen for dresses must be of good quality to be useful at 
 all. A poor linen suit is always a crushed, rumpled, untidy-look- 
 ing raiment, and even the best is suitable only for travel, or an 
 undress walking-attire. 
 
 38. Gentlemen should carefully avoid any conspicuous article of 
 dress or jewelry. Nothing more surely marks a vulgar mind. 
 
 39. It is a good rule to buy corset-lacings of loosely-woven 
 elastic cotton. These are as strong as the more firmly made, but 
 will yield some to the movements of the figure, and keep the 
 corsets in better shape than where they are strained by every mo- 
 tion. 
 
 40 Satchels, and such small articles as are carried in the hand, 
 as card-cases, or portmonnaies, can exhibit as much taste in their 
 selection as any portion of the actual attire. We have seen a 
 bright green portmopnaie and a cuir-colored satchel lying upon a 
 dress of blue silk, with what effect may be better imagined than 
 described. 
 
 41. Feathers should only be worn in winter. They are as much 
 
ITIJSrTS FOIt DRESSING WELL. 151 
 
 out of place upon a summer hat or bonnet as fur ^vould be upon 
 a lace mantle. 
 
 42. Large ornamenis are seldom becoming, unless upon a very 
 tall or large woman To see a little woman with an immense 
 breastpin, or a pair of enormous earrings, is simply absurd. 
 
 43. Jewels should be worn sparingly, should be only worn when 
 genuine, and upon full-dress occasions, and should then carefully 
 match the remainder of the attire. 
 
 44. Rich ornaments may sometimes relieve a simple dress, if 
 neat and tasteful, but will never atone for a shabby or inappropri- 
 ate one. 
 
 45. Cheap artificial flowers are simply hideous. Flowers to ap- 
 pear upon the costume of a well-dressed lady should be of the 
 most exquisite finish, and finest quality. They are never a neces- 
 sity, and when they cannot be procured of the choicest kind, had 
 better be dispensed with altogether. • 
 
 46. Refinement in feeling requires refinement in dress. A lady 
 of delicacy will be found ever delicately and modestly attired. 
 
 47. The best silk to wear is the best quality of gros grain. It 
 is also the richest and most superb in appearance, although not 
 the most showy. 
 
 48. Cheap silk- has the meanest appearance of any cheap goods. 
 Silk is a luxury, and should always be of good quahty, More- 
 iiiexpensive fabric will present a much better appearance than 
 inferior silk, however showily it may be made or trimmed. 
 
 49. Embroidery should be carefully selected, and very fine. 
 Coarse embroidery does not look well upon any garment, and 
 upon any outside portion of the dress, is conspicuously tawdry, 
 and in bad taste. If worn at all, it should be of the best. 
 
 50. Lace shawls are a luxury that cannot look well unless most 
 expensive and elegant. Unless the income will warrant a variety 
 of these wraps, they should be selected of shape and pattern that 
 will not soon become unfashionable. The regular shawl shape is 
 the most economical, as that will never be out of style, and it has 
 also the advantage of displaying the pattern efiectively. 
 
 51. If thread lace cannot be purchased for shawls, llama lace is 
 very rich and pretty for a substitute. Imitation lace should never 
 be worn by any well-dressed lady. 
 
152 HINTS FOR DRESSING WELL. 
 
 52. In wearing short dresses, cspeciallj^ on the street, bo care- 
 ful that they arc not too short. It is useless to adopt the style 
 unless the dress clears the ground, but that object attained, it is 
 not in good taste to expose the -whole foot and ankle. A pretty 
 foot does not look any better than an ugly one if too freely of- 
 fered for criticism. 
 
 53. One of the most beautiful and useful of summer fabrics is a 
 fine quality of linen lawn, and it has always the advantage of wash- 
 ing well. 
 
 51. It is as great an affectation for a young person to assume 
 the dress of middle age, as it is for an elderly jierson to wear dress 
 becoming and appropriate for a miss of sixteen. A certain gayety 
 and brightness of attire is as suitable for youth as sober colors 
 and quiet styles are for the more advanced in life. 
 
 55. Young persons should generally avoid the very heavy fab- 
 rics, even for full dress. Velvet, heavy silk, and rich satin, are 
 never so appropriate for the very young as the lighter silks and 
 thinner fabrics, which have a certain airy grace suited to most fes- 
 tive occasions. 
 
 56. Sea-side dresses must be selected to bear the contact with 
 the spray, which ruins most colors and many fabrics. On this ac- 
 count white is the- most serviceable, and generelly becoming, in 
 thick or thin goods. It is manufactured now in such variety of 
 texture, from heavy pique and marsellles to the tliinnest of mus- 
 lin, that almost an entire summer wardrobe may be made of it. 
 It has also the merit of never fading, and being really renewed 
 whenever it is done up. It is universally becoming, and can be 
 varied by style of make and variety in ornament and trimming. 
 
 57. Wardrobes to be often packed should'be made with as few 
 ruffles and puffings as fashion will allow. It is difficult, even with 
 all the»modern improvements for packing, to retain the freshness 
 of a dress after it has once been crowded into the.limits of a trunk. 
 Very expensive dresses may have the trimmings taken off, ijacked 
 separately, and put on again after unpacking, with advantage. 
 
 58. A boot or glove that is too tight never makes the hand or 
 foot appear smaller, but, on the contrary, by forcing it to look 
 compressed and strained, gives the impression that boots and 
 gloves of attainable size are too small to fit it. 
 
HINTS FOR DRESSING WELL. 153 
 
 59. Earrings should not be worn too heavy. It is not unusual 
 for these ornaments to tear tl.e flesh by their weight, causing a 
 permanent disfigurement that it is'impossible either to remedy or 
 to conceal. Light and tasteful ornaments of this kind are also 
 more becoming than the very heavy or large ones. An ornament 
 that is too large gives an impression of imitation or valueless mate- 
 rial. 
 
 60. Diamonds and other glittering stones should never form a 
 portion of the daylight attire of a Avell-dressed lady. They should 
 be strictly confined to evening-dress, as they require artificial light 
 for brilliancy, and are unsuited to any but the most dressy occa- 
 sions. 
 
 Cl. Thin fabrics should be worn over silk, unless in wash mate- 
 rial, when the under-dress should bo of fine cambric or linen. 
 Skirts of sheer book-muslin are the prettiest under lawn or such 
 tliin goods. • 
 
 62. Trousseaus should be selected to look well for at least one 
 season. It is almost impossible in the pi'esent often-changing 
 fashions to arrange out-door attire for more than three months, 
 but all excepting that portion of the wardrobe may be more boun- 
 tifully provided. 
 
 63. There is no surer test of the taste of a lady than her usual 
 morning attire at home. A neat and even elegant morning-dress 
 is certain to be worn by tlie truly well-dressed lady, and the slat- 
 tern will betray her untidy propensities more surely in that dress 
 than in any other. It is not expedient for the lady who is busy 
 during the morning hours to be expensively attired, but neatness 
 and propriety of costume are never more aj^parent or apjDreciated 
 than at the breakfast-table. 
 
 G-I. Yery light gloves are only suitable for a very light or elab- 
 orate street-dress. They are more appro^jriate for an evening cos- 
 tume, an opera or concert-dress, but can be worn also with a sum- 
 mer street suit, or a very dressy winter one. 
 
 65. A fan, v/hen carried for full-dress, should never be in glar- 
 ing contrast to the dress, or so bright as to destroy its effect. 
 White or black are suitable for light or dark dresses, and white 
 silk covered vrith black lace is the most useful of all fans. Bright 
 
154 HINTS FOR DRESSING WELL. 
 
 colors in fans should be very sparingly used, though they are 
 sometimes efFective with a pure white or a black lace dress. 
 
 66. Contrast or color is one of the most difficult of all matters 
 to manage tastefully. It is safer as a general rule to make a per- 
 fect match in trimmings and accompaniments, but a carefully-ad- 
 justed contrast is certainly better than an imperfect match. T-.vo 
 shades of one color are in very bad taste. 
 
 67. Never wear two bright colors at the same time. Sombre or 
 neutral tints may be effectively brightened by a gay knot of rib- 
 bon, or a flower, but never by two bright contrasting colors. 
 
 68. Travelling-dresses, when the season permits, should be 
 made of wash material. Nothing is so tenacious and disagreeable 
 as the dust contracted in travel, and once settled in woolen goods 
 it is almost impossible entirely to dislodge it. 
 
 69. Two garments are indispensable in the wardrobe of a lady 
 who travels much. A waterproof cloak with a large hood, and a 
 full, loose, linen duster, to entirely cover the dress. Wet or dustv 
 weather may be safely defied with these two garments. It is .not 
 always possible to tell which Avill be most required upon a long 
 journey, but it is generally safest to have both where they can be 
 conveniently unpacked. 
 
 70. Veils, although generally becoming, are often very trying to 
 the eyesight, and unless really worn as a protection from dust, are 
 better avoided. 
 
 71. It is best to avoid long floating ribbons in any crowded as- 
 sembly. They will often be found a great care, and their beauty 
 is entirely lost when you are limited for room. 
 
 72. Fine laco dresses, or evening-dresses of very thin and deli- 
 cate fabric, should only be worn when there is a probability of 
 l)lenty of space, as they will be greatly injured, if not entirely 
 destroyed, by the pressure of a crowd. Silk, even if of very del- 
 icate color and style, will be found more serviceable in a very 
 crowded ball or party-room. 
 
 73. A number of rings, even if they are all very valuable, are 
 in bad taste. It appears like an ostentatious display of wealth to 
 load the hands with expensive and conspicuous rings. One, of 
 some valuable stone or rare workmansh'p, is all that should be 
 worn. 
 
HINTS FOR DRESSING WELL. 155 
 
 i| 74. It is always in bad taste to wear several kinds of precious 
 ' stones. Two, happily contrasted in the same setting, will often 
 ji happily contrast with each other, but unless combined in this way, 
 j! even two kinds are in bad taste. If you wear diamonds, wear no 
 ij other stones, and let the rule apply to other stones. Jewels, to be 
 !j in good taste, must be worn in complete sets. 
 
 75. Large figures in dress goods are generally unbecoming. 
 Plaids and checks, to look well, should be small, and if of gay 
 colors, so blended as to subdue each other. Gay plaids are really 
 
 p trying to most figures and complexions, and are suitable, as a 
 general rule, only for little children and school-girls. 
 
 76. In arranging the dress of a little boy, avoid any eccentricity 
 or oddity that may attract attention Too often little boys have 
 to suffer martyrdom from the ridicule of their young companions 
 in order to gratify the vanity of their mammas. 
 
 77. There is no portion of a gentleman's dress that will sooner 
 attract attention than a peculiar hat. It is not in good taste to 
 appear in public conspicuously odd in this particular, as you may 
 be suspected of dressing for a wager, or an advertisement. 
 
 78. Gentlemen's underclothing should be always selected of the 
 most elastic material practicable. It is an annoyance, and will 
 make the most graceful gentleman appear awkward, if his move- 
 ments are restrained by stiff" or tight garments. Clothing may fit 
 smoothly, and yet be sufficiently elastic to allow perfect freedom 
 of action. 
 
 79. Gentlemen travelling should always carry a duster of linen 
 in summer, and Scotch tweed in winter, and a cap cover of oil 
 silk. A cap is preferable for travelling to a hat, which is apt to 
 sufTer from crowding or the weather. 
 
 80. A gentleman may appear on the street without gloves, but 
 ho must never call upon a lady or another gentleman with un- 
 covered hands. He will also appear to better advantage in any 
 evening gathering if handsomely gloved, though very hght colors 
 are only required in full dress. 
 
 81. A lady should never leave her house ungloved. It is, at 
 times, a summer fashion for ladies to appear with uncovered hands ■ 
 in the street, but the most tasteful street dress appears unfinished 
 unless handsome gloves complete the attire. 
 
156 JIINTS FOR DRESSING WELL. 
 
 82. Avoid aflfectations in dress. Many graceful additions to full 
 dress, as handkerchief-holders, and such trifles, are eulirely out 
 of place in a street dress, or a quiet home costume. 
 
 83. Gentlemen who wish for a shirt-front of smoothest polish 
 and beauty, should have the shirt made to close at the hack of the 
 neck, leaving the bosom whole, with button-holes for the studs. 
 This style is also safer for valuable studs, as the button-holes will 
 not stretch or loo3en as much as those that must be buttoned after 
 the shirt is on. 
 
 84. Cuffs detatched from the shirt generally set better over the 
 hand, and are more convenient than those that are made with the 
 shirt. Especially in travelling, where it is often impossible to 
 change the shirt, a pair of fresh cuffs and a clean collar will be 
 found often most convenient. * 
 
 85. In a gentleman's dress, as well as in that of the fairer sex, 
 coarse material, if made to fit perfectly, and in good style, is pref- 
 erable to a more elegant fabric that is ill-fitting or careless in 
 finish. 
 
 86. Gentlemen should never wear conspicuous buttons, or trim- 
 mings that will attract notice. In a large assembly the most per- 
 fectly dressed gentleman will be invariably fomid to be the one 
 Avhose attire is tlie least conspicuous. 
 
 87. Ladies should not trust too implicitly to the judgment of 
 their dressmakers, who will often sacrifice face and figure to the 
 mere garment. It is better to exercise your own taste and judg- 
 ment than to be a mere doll to display the art of your dress- 
 maker. 
 
 88. Let your mi' ror and your taste select your hat or bonnet, 
 rather than your milliner. 
 
 89. If Nature has granted you beauty, no cosmetics will add to ) 
 it ; if she has denied it to you, no art of chemist or quack will i 
 supply the deficiency. 
 
 90. False jewelry is the most detestable of all shams. | 
 
 91. If a shawl is worn at all in a handsome dress, it sliould be ; 
 of some choice fabric, and carefully selected for its beauty and ! 
 fitness. A really elegant shawl is at once the most gi-aceful and I 
 becoming wrap a lady can select, but a sacque or cloak is prefer- 
 
HINTS FOB DRi:SSlNG WELL. 157 
 
 able to a cheap or coarse shawl. India shawls are more worn for 
 their rarity and value than their beauty, but there are other varie- 
 ties that are as beautiful as they are choice or expensive. 
 
 92. In a visit to the country, it is well to have riding, walkin. 
 and driving-dresses of linen, or other material that can be handed 
 to the laundry-maid after wear. There is always mud or dust to 
 be encountered in a country walk or drive. 
 
 93. Croquet-dresses are allowed to be a little shorter than the 
 usual walking-dress, to allow the foot to be used freely. A long 
 skirt, when gracefully managed, however, can be prettier in effect 
 than a short one, but it is more troublesome, and not generally co 
 much in demand as the short one. 
 
 94. Broad-brimmed hats are the most suitable head covering 
 for the sea-side and the country. Those of white muslin are es- 
 pecially pretty and becoming, and can be done up to look always 
 fresh and pretty. For young persons they look well with narrow 
 colored ribbons, which gives them a coquettish appearance. 
 
 95. Bracelets of value should always be protected by a chain 
 and pin, or, for short sleeves, a chain and finger-ring. 
 
 96. It is a habit that gives rise to suspicions of some shabbiness 
 to be hidden, for a lady to wear a shawl habitually in the house. 
 The little breakfast-shawl, pretty as it often is, is better dispensed 
 with. If invalid habits are the excuse, it is better to wear warm- 
 er under-clothing, and let the shawl remain as it was originally in- 
 tended it should be, an out-door wrap. 
 
 97. Satin, if worn either for an entire dress, or for a trimming, 
 should be of the thickest and best quality. A poor satin is a 
 mere waste. It will hardly look' well for one evening before it be- 
 gins to fray, and even the best is an expensive, because an easily- 
 defaced fabric. 
 
 98. Fringe should be very thick and heavy, or it will tangle and 
 knot even while comparatively new. If knotted, test its strength 
 before buying, as even the most expensive is often loosely held at 
 the heading. 
 
 99. Summer dresses, when not folded in a deep drawer, should 
 be covered by a thin, light curtain of muslin, sufficiently thin to 
 avoid crushing, but thick enough to .protect perfectly from doist. 
 
158 HINTS FOR DRESSING WELL. 
 
 Even in a wardrobe, or closet, this covering will be found a valu- 
 able protection for summer fabrics. 
 
 100. Where economy and taste are at variance, let common sense 
 decide your dress. The most becoming and beautiful toilet will 
 never pay for the misery of debt. 
 
DICK & FITZGERALD, 
 
 PUBLISHEKS, NEW YORK. 
 
 *^* The Publishers, upon receipt of the price, -will send any of the folio-wing 
 books by mail, postage free, to any part of the United States. In ordering 
 books, the lull name, post office, county and State should be plainly written. 
 
 "Wilson's Book of Recitations and Dialogues. With In- 
 structions in Elocution and Declamation. Containing a choice selection of 
 Poetical and Prose Recitations and Original Colloquies. Designed as a 
 Reading Book for Classes, and as an Assistant to Teachers and Students in 
 preparing Exhibitions. By Eloyd B. Wilson, Professor of Elocution. 
 This collection has been prepared with a special view to the development of 
 the two cardinal principles of true Elocution — Voice and Action, and include 
 a large proportion of Recitations and Dialogues, which appear for the first 
 time in this form. The Colloquies are entirely original. 
 
 Paper covers. Price , 30 cts. 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back. - 50 CtS. 
 
 Frost's Bialog-ues for Young Folks. A collection of Orig- 
 inal Moral and Humorous Dialogues. Adapted to the use of School and 
 Church Exhibitions, Eamily Gatherings, and Juvenile Celebrations on all 
 Occasions. By S. A. Frost, author of " Frost's Original Letter Writer," 
 etc. This collection of Dialogues is just what has long been wanted— ii 
 contains a variety that will suit every taste ; some of the subjects are hu- 
 morous, some satirical, hitting at the follies of vice and fashion, while others 
 are pathetic, and all are entertaining. A few of the Dialoffues are long 
 enough to form a sort of little drama that will interest more a-dvanced 
 scholars, while short and easy ones abound tor the use of quite young chil- 
 dren. Most of the Dialogues introduce two or three characters only, but 
 some require a greater number. The subjects chosen will, it is hoped, ba 
 found useful in conveying sound moral instruction as well as giving the op- 
 portunity to display memory and vivacity in rendering them. 
 
 Paper covers. Price 30 ets. 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back, side in colors 50 etS. 
 
 The Parlor Stage. A Collection of Drawing-Eoom Pro- 
 verbs, Charades and Tableaux Vivants. By Miss S. A. Frost. The authoresB 
 of this attractive volume has performed her task with skill, talent, and we 
 might say. With genius ; for the Acting Charades and Proverbs are really 
 minor dramas of a high order of merit. There are twenty-four of them, and 
 fourteen Tableaux, all of which are excellent. The characters are admirably 
 drawn, well contrasted, and the plots and dialogues much better than those 
 of many popular pieces performed at the public theatres. Any parlor with 
 folding or sliding doors is suitable for their representation (or, if there are 
 no sliding or folding doors, a temporary curtain will answer). The dresses 
 are all those of modern society, and the scenery and properties can be easily 
 provided from the resources of almost any family residence in town or coun^ 
 trj'. The book is elegantly got up, and we commend it heartily to young 
 gentlemen and ladies who wish to beguile the long winter evenings with a 
 
 * species of amusement at once interesting, instructive and amusing. 
 868 pages, small Rvo, cloth, gilt side and back, beveled edges. Price.. gl iQ, 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annexed. 
 Hov/arcVs Book of Conunclrams and Eiddles. Containing 
 
 over 1.400 AVitty Conundrums, Queer Riddles, Peiijlexing Puzzles. Ingen, 
 ious Enigmas, Clever Charades, Curious Catches, and Amusing he. Is, oriii- 
 inal and newly dressed. This splendid co.lectioii oi cui'ious p aadcxes 
 will afford the material lor a never-ending iea-t oi" lun aod amusement. 
 Any person, with the assistance of this book, may take the lead in enter- 
 taining a company and keeping them in roars oi' laughter for hours tc- 
 gether. It is an invaluable companion for a Pic-nic, or Summer Excursion 
 of any kind, and is just the thing to make a fireside circle merry on a loi jr 
 winter's evening. There is not a poor riddle in the book, the majority bt in^- 
 
 fresh and of the highest order. Paper cover, price 30 cts- 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back, price 60 CtS- 
 
 Frost's Book of Tableaux and Shadow Pantomimes. 
 
 Containing a choice collection o:' Tableaux or Living Pictures, embracing 
 Z»Ioving Tableaux, Jlother Goose Tableaux, Fairy Tale Tableaux, Charade 
 and Proverb Tab. eaux; together with directions for arranging the stage, 
 costuming the characters, and forming appropriate groups. By Mi;-s S. 
 Annie Prost. To which is added a number of Shadow Acts and Pnnio- 
 mimes, with complete stage instructions. ISO pages, paper cover. . .30 ct5- 
 Bound in boards, cloth back t 50 ctS 
 
 How to Amuse an Evening Party. A complete collec 
 
 tion of Home Recreations, including Round Games, Forfeits, Parlor Magic, 
 Puzzles, and Comic Diversions; together wilh a great variety of ; cieutifio 
 Kecreaiions and Evening Amusements. Profusely illustrated with i tariy 
 
 200 fine wood-cuts Paper, price SO ctS. 
 
 Bound in boards, ornamental 50 cts. 
 
 Laughing Gas. An EncyclopsBdia of Wit, Wisdom, and 
 ■Wind. ' By Sam Slick, Jr. Comically illustrated with 100 original and 
 laughablfc Engravings, and nearly 500 side-extending Jokes, anl other 
 things to get tat on ; and the best thing of it is, that everything abont the 
 book is new and Iresh— all new — new designs, new stories, new type— no 
 comic almanac stuii. Price .25 CtS. 
 
 The Egyptian Dream Book and Foi-tnne-Teller. Con- 
 taining an Alphabetical List of Di'eams, an i numerous methods of Telling 
 Fortunes, including the celebrated Oraculum. of Napoleon P.onaparte. Il- 
 lustrated with explanatory diagrams. IGmo, boards, cloth back. 
 Price r. 40 Cts. 
 
 Ifed Turner's Black Jokes. A collection of Funny Stories, 
 Jokes, and Conundrums, interspersed with Witty Sayings and Humorous 
 Dialogr.es. As given by Ned Turner, tlie Celebrated Ethiopian Debneatov 
 and Equestrian Clown. Price 10 ctS. 
 
 Book of 1,000 Tales and Amusing Adventures. Con- 
 taining over sooEngravangs, and 450 pages. This is a magrnificent book, 
 
 and is crammed full of narratives and adventures. Price $ 1 50 
 
 The Game of Whist. Eules, Directions, and Maxims to 
 
 bo observed in playing it. Containing, also. Primary Rules for Beginners, 
 Explanations and Directions for Old Players, and the Laws of the Game. 
 Compiled from Hoyle and Matthews. Price 12 ctS. 
 
 10,000 Wonderful Things. Comprising the Marvellous 
 
 and Rare, Odd, Curious, Quaint, Eccentric, and Extraordinary in all Ages 
 and Nations, in Art, Nature, and Science, including many Wonder.^ of the^ 
 Wfirld, enriched with hundreds of authentic illustrations. 16mo, cloth, 
 salt side atid back. Price $1 AO 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annexea, 
 The Young Debater and Chairman's Assistant. Contain > 
 
 ing instructions how to form and conduct Societies, Clubs and other organ 
 ized associations. Also, full Rules of Order for the government of their 
 Business and Debates ; together with complete directions Blow to Compose 
 Eesolutions, Reports and Petitions ; and the best way to manage Publio 
 Meetings, Celebrations, Dinners and Pic-Nics. Also instructions in Elocu- 
 tion, with hints on Debate. This book is compiled from our larger work 
 entitled " The Finger Post to Public Business." To any one who desiret, 
 to become familiar with the duties of an Officer or Committee-man in z 
 Society or Association, this work will be invaluable, as it contains minute 
 instructions in everything that pertains to the routine of Society Businessi 
 
 152 pages. Paper coves', price. gO cts 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back, price 50 cts- 
 
 Prost's Laws and By-Laws of American Society. A con- 
 densed but thorough treatise on Etiquette and its usages in America. 
 Containing plain and reliable directions for deportment on the following 
 subjects : Letters of Introduction, Salutes and Salutations, Calls, Conver- 
 sations, Invitations, Dinner Company, Balls, Morning and Evening Par' 
 ties. Visiting, Street Etiquette, Riding and Driving, Travelling ; Etiquette 
 in Church, Etiquette for Places of Amusement ; Servants, Hotel Etiquette \ 
 Etiquette in Weddings, Baptisms, and Funerals ; Etiquette with Children, 
 and at the Card- Table ; Visiting Cards, Letter- Writing, the Lady's Toilet, 
 the Gentleman's Toilet ; besides one hundred unclassified laws applicable 
 
 to all occasions. Paper cover, price 30 cts. 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back, price 50 ctS, 
 
 How to Cook Potatoes, Apples, Eggs and Fish, Four Hun- 
 dred Different Ways. The matter embraced in this work consists of thS 
 combined contents of four little books which have obtained immense popu.* 
 la;-ity in France and England, and which have been thoroughly revised and 
 adapted for American housekeepers by an American cook of great experi- 
 ence. The work especially recommends itself to those who are often em- 
 barrassed for want of variety in dishes suitable for the breakfast table or, 
 on occasions where the necessity arises for preparing a meal at short notice. 
 
 Paper covers, price 30 Cts. 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back, price 50 ctS. 
 
 Uncle Josh's Trunk-Full of Fun. A portfolio of first-class 
 
 Wit and Humor, and never-ending source of Jollity, Containing the rich- 
 est collection of Comical Stories, Cruel Sells, Side-splitting Jokes, Humorous 
 Poetry, Q,uaint Parodies, Burlesque Sermons, New Conundrums and Mirth 
 Provoking Speeches ever published. Interspersed with Curious Puzzles, 
 Amusing Card Tricks, and Feats of Parlor Magic. Illustrated with nearly 
 200 Funny Engravings. This book consists of 64 large octavo pages, and 
 contains three times as much reading matter and real fun as any other 
 book of the same price. Illustrated cover, printed in colors, price. . .15 ctS. 
 
 Ihe American HoTisewife and Kitchen Directory. This 
 
 valuable book embraces three hundred and seventy-eight receipts for 
 cooking all sorts of American dishes in the most economical manner, and, 
 besides these, it also contains a great variety of important secrets for wash- 
 ing, cleansing, scouring, and extracting grease, paints, stains and iron-' 
 mould from cloth, muslin and linen. 
 
 Bound in ornamental paper covers, price 30 ctg. 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back, price 50 cts. 
 
 How to Cook and How to Carve. Giving plain and easily 
 
 understood directions for preparing and cooking, with the greatest economy, 
 ^very kind of dish, with complete instructions for serving the same. This 
 ?)Ook is just the thing for a young Housekeeper. It explains everything 
 g^bout the art of Cooking. It is worth a dozen of expensive French books. 
 
 Taper rovers, price 30 ctS- 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back, price --..r. 50 cts. 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annesei?'. 
 Spencer's Book of Comic Speeches and Humorous Recita^ 
 
 tions- -A- colioction of Comic Speeches and Dialogues, Humorous Prose and 
 Poetical Recitations, Laughable Dramatic Scenes and Burlesques, and Ec- 
 centi'ic Characteristic Soliloquies and Stories. Suitable tor School Exhibi- 
 tions and Evening Entertainments. Edited by Albei^t J. Spencer. This 
 is the best book of Comic Recitations that has ever been published, and 
 commands a lai-ge sale on account of its real merit. It is crammed full of 
 Comic Poetry, Laughable Lectures, Irish and Dutch Stories, Yankee Yarns, 
 Negro Burlesques, Short Dramatic Scenes, Humorous Dialogues, and all 
 kinds of Funny Speeches. 
 
 Paper covers. Price 30 cts. 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back 50 CtS. 
 
 Marache's Manual of Chess. Containing a description of 
 
 the Board and the Pieces, Chess Notation, Technical Terms with diagrams 
 illustrating them. Relative Value of the Pieces, Laws of the Game, General 
 Observations on the Pieces, Preliminary Games for Beginners, Fifty Open- 
 ings of Games, giving all the latest discoveries of Modern Masters, with 
 "best games and copious notes. Twenty Endings of Games, showing easiest 
 ways of effecting Checkmate. Thirty-six ingenious Diagram Problems, 
 " and Sixteen curious Chess Sti'atagems. To which is added a Treatise on 
 the Games of Backgammon, Russian Backgammon and Dominoes, the 
 ■whole being one of the best Books for Beginners ever published. By N. 
 Marache, Chess Editor of " AVilkes' Spirit of the Times." 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back. Price 50 cts. 
 
 Cloth, gilt side 75 cts. 
 
 Martine's Sensible Letter Writer ; Being; a comprehensive 
 
 and complete Guide and Assistant for those who desire to carry on Episto- 
 lary Correspondence ; Containing a large collection of model letters, on the 
 simplest matters of life, adapted to all ages and conditions, 
 
 EMBRACING, 
 
 Letters of Courtesy, Friendship and 
 Affection ; 
 
 Letters of Condolence and. Sympatliy ; 
 
 A Choice Collection of Love Letters, for 
 Every Situation in a Courtship ; 
 
 Notes of Ceremony, Familiar Invita" 
 tions, etc., together loilh Notes of Ac- 
 ceptance and Regret. 
 
 Business Letters ; 
 
 Applications for Employment, with 
 
 Letters of Recommendation, and An- 
 
 swers to Advertisements : 
 Letters between Parents and Children ; 
 Letters of Friendly Counsel and Re- 
 
 mo7istrance ; 
 Letters soliciting Advice, Assistance 
 
 and Friendly Favors ; 
 The whole containing 300 Sensible Letters and Notes. This is an invalua- 
 ble book for those persons who have not had sufficient practice to enable 
 them to write letters without great effort. It contains such a variety of 
 letters, that models may be found to suit every subject. Bound m bo-irds, 
 
 with illuminated cover and cloth back, 207 pages. Price 50 cts. 
 
 Bound in cloth 75 ctg^ 
 
 The Perfect Gentleman. A book of Etiquette and Elo- 
 quence. Containing Information and Instruction for those who desire to 
 become brilliant or conspicuous in General Society, or at Parties, Dinners, 
 or Popular Gatherings, etc. It gives directions how to use wine at table, 
 with Rules tor judging the quality thereof, Rules for Carving, and a com- 
 plete Etiquette of "the Dinner lable, including Dinner Speeches, Toasts 
 and Sentiments, ATit and Conversation at Table, etc. It has also an 
 American Code of Etiquette and Politeness tor all occasions. Model 
 Speeches, with Directions how to deliver them. Duties of the Chairman 
 at Public Meetings. Forms of Preambles and Resolutions, etc. It is a 
 handsomely bound and gilt volume of 335 images. 
 Price %\ 5© 
 
Popular Booka sent Free of Postage at tke Prices annexed- 
 
 Howard's Book of Drawiiig'-Eooin Theatricals. A collec- 
 tion of twelve siiort and amusing plays in one act and one scene, specially 
 adapted for private performances ; with practical directions, lor their 
 preparation and management. Some of the plays are adapted for per- 
 formers of one sesonly. This book is just what is wanted by those who 
 purpose getting tip an entertainment of pri^^ate theatricals : it contains all 
 the necessary instructions for insuring complete success. ISO pages. 
 
 Paper cover. Price 30 cts- 
 
 Bound in boards with cloth back 50 cts- 
 
 Hudson's Private Theatricals for Home Performance. A 
 
 collection of Humorous Plays suitable for an Amateur Entertainment, with 
 directions how to carry out a perfoi-mance successfully. Some of the plays 
 in this collection are adapted for performance by males only, others require 
 only females for the cast, and all of them are in one scene and one act, and 
 . may be represented in any moderate sized parlor, without much prepara- 
 tion of costume or scenery. 180 pages. 
 
 Paper covers. Price 30 cts- 
 
 Bound in boards with cloth back 50 cts- 
 
 The Art of Dressing Well. By Miss S. A. Frost. This 
 
 book is designed for ladies knd gentlemen who desire to make a favorable 
 impression upon society, and is intended to meet the requirements of any 
 season, place, or time ; to offer such suggestions as will be valuable to those 
 just entering society ; to brides, for whose guidance a complete trousseau 
 is described ; to persons in mourning ; indeed, to every individual who pays 
 attention to the important objects of economy, style, and propriety of cos- 
 tume. 188 pages. 
 
 Paper covers. Price 30 cts* 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back 50 ctS- 
 
 How to Amuse an Evening IParty. A complete collection 
 
 of Home Recreations, including Pi,ound Games, Forfeits, Parlor Magic, 
 Puzzles, and Comic Diversions ; together with a great variety of Scientihc 
 Kecreations and Evening Amusements. Profusely illustrated with nearly 
 two hundred fine woodcuts. Here is family amusement for the million. 
 Here is parlor or drawing-room entertainment, night after night, for a 
 whole winter. A young man with ftiis volume may render himself the bmu 
 ideal of a delightful companion at every party. He may take the lead in 
 amusing the company, and win the hearts of all the ladies, and charm away 
 the obduracy of the stoniest-hearted parent, by his powers of entertainment. 
 
 Bound in ornamental paper cover. Price „ . SO cts. 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back 50 cts- 
 
 Martine's Droll Dialogues and Laughable Eecitations. 
 
 By Arthur Martine, author of ■" Martine's Letter- Writer," etc., etc. A 
 collection of Humorous Dialogues, Comic Recitations, Brilliant Burlesques, 
 Spirited Stump Speeches, and Ludicrous Earces, adapted for School Cele- 
 brations- and Home Amusement. 188 pages. 
 
 Paper covers. Price 30 cts- 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back , 50 cts- 
 
 Frost's Humorous and Exhibition Dialogues This is a 
 
 collection of sprightly original Dialogues, in Prose and Verse, intended to 
 be spoken at School Exhibitions. Some of the pieces are for boys, some for 
 girls, while a number are desi'gned to be used by both sexes. The Dialogiiea 
 • are all good, and will recomiuend themselves to those who desire to have 
 innocent fun— the iDrevailing feature at a school celebration. 180 pages. 
 
 Paper cover. Price ...30 cts- 
 
 Bound in boards , ,,.,,, 50 cts- 
 
l?opular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annexed. 
 Brudder Bones' Book of Stump Speeches and Burlesque 
 
 Orations. Also containing' Humorous Lectures, Ethiopian Dialogues, Plan- 
 tatiuii Scenes, Negro Farces and Burlesques, Laughable Interludes and Com- 
 ic Recitations, interspersed vith Dutch, Irish, French and Yankee stories. 
 Compiled and edited by John F. fScoTT. This book contains some oi the 
 best hits of the leading negro delineators ot the present time, as well as 
 mirth-provoking jokes and repartees of the most celebrated End-Men ot the 
 day, and specially designed for the introduction of fun in an evening's en- 
 tertainment. Paper covers. Price 30 cts* 
 
 Bound in boards, illuminated 50 Cts.' 
 
 Prost's Original Letter-Writer. A complete collection of 
 
 Original Letters and Notes, upon every imaginable subject of Evei-y-Day 
 Life, with plain directions about everything connected with writing a letter. 
 Containing Letters of Introduction, Letters on Business, Lettei's answering 
 Advertisements, Letters of Pecommendation, Applications for Employment, 
 Letters of Congratulation, of Condolence, of Friendship and llelationshij), 
 Love Letters, Notes of Invitation, Notes Accompanying Gifts, Letters of 
 Favor, of Advice, and Letters of Excuse, together with an appropriate 
 answer to each. The whole embracing three hundred letters and notes. By 
 S. A. Frost, author of " The Parlor Stage," " Dialogues for Young Folks," 
 etc. To which is added a comprehensive Table of Synonyms alone worth 
 double the price asked for the book. This work is not a rehash of English 
 writers, but is entirely practical and original, and suited to the wants ot the 
 American public. We assure our readers that it is the best collection of 
 letters ever published in this country. Bound in boards, cloth back, with 
 illuminated sides. Price 50 ctS. 
 
 Inquire Within for Anything you Want to Know ; or, Over 
 3,700 Fads for the People. " Inquire "Within " is one of the most valuable 
 and extraordinary volumes ever presented to the American public, and 
 embodies nearly 4,000 factS; in most of which any person will find instruc- 
 tion, aid and entertainment. It contains so many valuable recipes, that 
 an enumeration of them requires seventy-two columns of fine type for the 
 index. Illustrated. 436 large pages. Price %\ 50 
 
 The Sociable ; or. One Thousand, and One Home Amn&emenia. 
 Containing Acting Proverbs, Dramatic Charades, Acting Charades,Tableaux 
 Vivants, Parlor Games and Parlor Magic, and a choice collection of Puzzles, 
 etc., illustrated with nearly 300 Engraving.s and Diagrams, the whole being 
 a fund of never-ending entertainment. JBy the author of the " Magician's 
 Own Book." Nearly 400 pages, 12 mo. cloth, gilt side stamp. Price. .%\ 50 
 
 Martinets Hand-Book of Etiquette and Guide to True Po- 
 liteness. A complete Manual for all those who desire to understand good 
 breeding, the customs of good society, and to avoid incorrect and vulgar 
 liabits. Containing clear and comprehensn'e directions for correct manners, 
 conversation, dress, introductions, rules for good behavior at Dinner Parties 
 and the table, with hints on wine and carving at the table ; together with 
 Etiquette of the Ball and Assembly Room, Evening Partiefj, and the usages 
 to be observed when visiting or receiving calls ; deportment in the street 
 and when travelling. To which is added the Etiquette of Courtship and 
 
 Marriage. Bound in boards, with cloth back. Price 50 cts. 
 
 Eound in cloth, gilt side 75 cts. 
 
 Bay's American Eeady-Reckoner, containing Tables for 
 
 rapid calculations of Aggregate Values, Wages, Salaries, Board, Interest 
 Money, &c., &c. Also, Tables of Timber, Plank, Board and Log Measure- 
 ments, with full explanations how to measure them, eitter by the square 
 toot (board mcasui-e), cubic foot {timber measure), &c. Bound in borads. 
 
 Price 50 cts 
 
 Bound in cloth.' 75 et* 
 
Popular Books seut Free of Postage at the Prices aimesed. 
 
 The Parlor Magician ; or, One Hundred TricJcs for the Draio- 
 ing-Room, containing an Extensive and Miscellaneous Collection of Conjur- 
 ing and Legerdemain ; Sleights v/ith Dice, Dominoes, Cards, Ribbons, 
 Eings, Fruit, Coin, Balls, Handkerchiefs, etc., all of which may be per- 
 formed in the Parlor or Drawing-E.oom, without the aid of any apparatus ; 
 also embracing a choice variety of Curious Deceptions, which may be per- 
 formed with the aid of simple apparatus ; the whole illustrated and clearly 
 
 explained with 121 engravings. Paper Covers. Price 30 ctSai 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back 50 ctSo 
 
 Book of Eiddles and Five Hundred Home Amusements. 
 
 Containing a Choice and Curious Collection of Riddles, Charades, Enigmas, 
 Rebub^s, Anagrams, Transpositions, Conundrums, Amusing Puzzles, Queer 
 Sleights, Recreations in Arithmetic, Fireside Games and Natural Magic, 
 embracing Entertaining Amusements in Magnetism, Chemistry, Second 
 Sight and Simple Recreations in Science for Family and Social Pastime, il- 
 lustrated with sixty Engravings. Paper covers. Price .30 ets. 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back 50 ctS. 
 
 Book of Eireside Games. Containing an Explanation of the 
 most Entertaining Games suited to the Family Circle as a Recreation, such 
 as Games of Action, Games which merely require attention, Games which 
 require memory, Catch Games, which have for their objects Tricks or Mysti- 
 fication, Games in which an opportunity is afforded to display Gallantry, 
 "Wit, or some slight knowledge of certain Sciences, Amusing Forfeits, Fire- 
 side Games for Winter Evening Amusement, etc. 
 
 paper covers. Price 80 cts- 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back 50.Ct3. 
 
 Parlor Theatricals ; or, Winter Evenings' Entertainment. Con- 
 taining Acting Proverbs, Dramatic Charades, Acting Charades, or Draw- 
 ing-Room Pantomimes, Musical Burlesques, Tableaux "Vivants, etc.; with 
 Instructions for Amateurs ; how to Construct a Stage and Curtain ; how to 
 get up Costumes and Properties; on the "Making up" of Characters; 
 Exits and Entrances; how to arrange Tableaux, etc. Illustrated with 
 
 Engravings. Paper covers. Price 30 ctS. 
 
 Sound In boards, cloth back 50 ctS. 
 
 Tlie Book of 500 Curious Puzzles. Containing a large col- 
 
 * iection of entertaining Paradoxes, Perplexing Deceptions in numbers, and 
 Amusing Tricks in Geometry. By the author ot " The Sociable," '' The Se- 
 cret Out," " The Magician's Own Book." Illustrated with a gref.t variety 
 of Engravings. This book commands a large sale. It will furnish fun and 
 
 amusement for a whole winter. Paper covers. Price c -30 ctS. 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back 50 cts. 
 
 The above five books are compiled from the " Sociable " and " Magician's 
 
 Own." 
 
 The American Boys' Book of Sports and Games. A Reposi- 
 
 ■' tcry of In and Out-Door Amusements for Boys and Youth. Illustrated 
 with nearly 700 engravings, designed by White, Herrick, Weir and Harvey, 
 And engraved by N. Orr. This is, unquestionably, the most attractive ana 
 valuable book of its kind ever issued in this or any other country. It has 
 "been three years in preparation, and embraces all the sports and games thafc 
 tend to develop the physical constitution, improve the mind and heart, and 
 relieve the tedium of leisure hours, both in the parlor and the field. The 
 Engravings are all in the finest style of art, and embrace eight full-page 
 ornamental titles, illustrating the several departments of the work, beauti- 
 fully printed on tinted paper. The book is issued in the best style, being 
 printed on fine sized paper, and handsoipely bound. Extra cloth, gilt side 
 
 and back, extra gold. Price ^,3 50 
 
 Extra cloth, full gilt edges, back aad side f 4 55 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annexed. 
 
 Book of Household Pets. Containing valuable instiuctions 
 alxjut the Diseases, Breeding, Training' and Managomeut of the Canary, 
 Mocking- Bird, Brown Thrush, or Thrasher, and other birds, and the rearing 
 and management of all kinds of Pigeons and Fancy Poulti-y, Rabbits, Squir- 
 rels, Guinea Pigi«, White Mice, and Dogs ; together with a Comprehensive 
 Treatise on the Principle and Management of the Salt and Fresh Water 
 Aquarium. Illustrated with 123 line wood-cuts. 
 
 Bound in boards. Price 50 ctiS- 
 
 Bound in cloth, gilt side 75 gj^j. 
 
 Athletic Sports for Boys. A Eepository of Graceful Ee- 
 
 ereations for Youth, containing clear and complete instructions in Gymnas- 
 tics, Limb Exercises. Jumping, Pole Leaping, Dumb Bells, Indian Clubs, 
 Parallel Cars, the Horizontal Bar, the Trapeze, the Suspended Ropes, Skat- 
 ing, Swimming, Rowing, Sailing, Horsemanship, Riding, Driving, Angling, 
 Fencing and Broadsword. The whole splendidly illustrated with 194 fine 
 ■ wood-cuts and diagrams. 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back. Price 75 cts- 
 
 Bound in cloth, gilt side , SI 00 
 
 The Play-B,00m ; or, In-Boor Games for Boijs and Girls ; in- 
 cluding Round Games and Forfeits, Slate andBoard Games; also numerous 
 Table and Toy Games, together with a large collection of Evening Amuse- 
 ments, Comprehending Comic Diversions, Parlor Magic, Tricks with Cards, 
 Scientific Recreations and Puzzles. Profusely illustrated with 197 fine woo(J 
 
 cuts. Bound in boards, with cloth back. Price 50 ct^ 
 
 Bound in cloth, gilt side 75 cts, 
 
 The Play-Ground ; or, Out-Door Games for Boys. A Book of 
 Healthy Recreations for Youth, containing over a hundred Amusements^ 
 including Games of Activity and Speed ; Games with Toys, Marbles, Tops, 
 Hoops, Kites, Archery, Balls ; with Cricket, Croquet and Base-Ball. lUus' 
 
 trated with 124 wood-cuts. Bound in boards. Price..... 50 ctS. 
 
 Bound in cloth, gilt side 75 CtS, 
 
 The above four books are abridged from the " American Boy's Book ot 
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 The Yoim^ Reporter ; or, now to Write Short-Hand. A com- 
 plete Phonographic Teacher, intended to aflbrd thorough instruction to 
 those who have not the assistance of an Oral Teacher. By the aid of thia 
 work, any person ot the most ordinary intelligence may learn to write Short- 
 Hand, and Report Speeches and Sermons in a short time. Bound in boards, 
 with cloth back. Price 50 ctS. 
 
 Barton's Comic Recitations and Humorous Dialogues, 
 
 Containing a variety of Comic Recitations in Prose and Poetry, Amusing 
 Dialogues, Burlesque Scenes, Eccentric Orations and Stump Speeches, Hui 
 morons Interludes and Laughable Farces. Designed for School Commence, 
 ments and Amatevr Theatricals. Edited by Jekome Bakton. This is* th« 
 b^st collection of Humorous pieces, especially adapted to the parlor stage, 
 
 ' that has ever been published. Hluminated paper cover. Price 30 cts» 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back 50 Ct». 
 
 The Secret Out ; or, One Thousand Tricks loith Cards, and 
 other Recrealions. Illustrated with over Three Hundred Engravings. A 
 book -which explains all the Tricks and Deceptions with Playing Cards evef 
 known, and gives, besides, a great many new ones— the whole being de- 
 scribed so carefully, with engravings to illustrate them, that anybody can 
 easily leani how to perform them. This work also contains 240 of the best 
 Tricks in Legerdemain, in addition to the card tricks. 12mo., 400 pages, 
 bound in cloth, with gilt side and back. Price SI 50 
 
PopTilar Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annezed.' 
 
 Eiilgrove's Bali-room Guide and Complete Dancing-mas- 
 ter, Containing a plain treatise on Etiquette and Deportment at Balla 
 and Parties, with valuable hints on Dress and the Toilet, together with full 
 explanations of the Rudiments, Terms, Figures and Steps used in Dancing, 
 including clear and precise instructions how to dance all kinds of Quad- 
 rilles, Waltzes, Polkas, Redowas, Reels, Round, Plain and Fancy Dances, 
 so that any person may learn them without the aid of a teacher ; to which 
 is added, easy directions for calling out the Figures of every dance, and the 
 amount of Music required for each. The whole illustrated with 176 de- 
 scriptive engravings and diagrams. By Thomas Hillgkove, Professor of 
 Dancing. 
 
 Bound in cloth, with gilt side and back. Price ^1 00 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back 75 cts. 
 
 Wright's Book of 3,00(i American Eeeeipts ; or, Light- 
 
 Eouse of Valuable Information. Containing over 3,000 Receipts in all the 
 Useful and Dornestic Arts— including Cooking, Confectionery, Distilling, 
 Perfumery, Chemicals, Varnishes, Dyeing, Agriculture, etc. Embracing 
 valuable secrets that cannot be obtained from atiy other source. No exer- 
 tion or exjjense has been spared to make this work as comprehensive and 
 accurate as possible. Many Receipts will be found in it that have never 
 before appeared in print in this country. Some idea may be lormed of its 
 vabae in the latter respect, when it is stated that the compiler has been for 
 many years engaged in collecting rare and valuable Receipts from numer- 
 ous languages besides the English. This is by far the most valuable Ameri- 
 can Receipt Book that has ever been published. 
 12mo., cloth, 359 pages. Price ^1 50 
 
 The Modern Pocket Hoyle. Containing all the Games of 
 
 Skill and Chance, as played in this country at the present time ; being an 
 " authority on all disputed points." By " Tktjimps." This valuable manual 
 is all original, or thoroughly revised, from the best and latest authorities, 
 and includes the laws and complete directions for playing one hundred and 
 eleven different games, comprising Card games. Chess, Checkers, Dominoes, 
 Backgammon, Dice, Billiards, and all the Field Games. 388 pages. 
 
 Paper covers. Price. . . , 50 CtS. 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back 75 cts. 
 
 Bound in cloth, gilt side and back SI 25 
 
 Eichardson's Monitor of Free-Masonry. A Complete 
 
 Guide to the various Ceremonies and Routine in Free-Mason's Lodges, 
 Chapters, Encampments, Hierarchies, etc., in all the Degrees, whether 
 Modern, Ancient, InefPable, Philosophical or Historical. Containing, also, 
 the Signs, Tokens, Grips, Pass-words, Decorations, Drapery, Dress, Regalia 
 and Jewels, in each Degree. Profusely illustrated with Explanatory En- 
 gravings, Plans of the Interior of Lodges, etc. By Jabez Richakdson, 
 A. M. A book of 185 pages. 
 
 Bound in paper covers. Price 50 ctS. 
 
 Bound and gilt SI 00 
 
 Uarey and Knowlson's Complete Horse-tamer and Far- 
 
 { rier. A New and Improved Edition, containing Mr. Rarey's whole Secret 
 ot Subduing and Breaking Vicious Horses, together with his Improved 
 Plan of Mac aging Young Colts, and breaking them to the Saddle, the 
 Harness and the Sulky, with Rules for selecting a good Horse, for Feeding 
 Horses, etc. Also, The Complete Farrier ; or, Horse Doctor ; a Guide 
 for the Treatment of Horses in all Diseases to which that noble animal is 
 
 I liable, being the result of fifty years' extensive practice of the author, 
 John C. Knowlson, during his' life an English Farrier of high popularity, 
 
 j containing the latest discoveries in the Cure of Spavin. Illustrated with 
 
 \ descriptive Engravings. 
 
 I Bound in boards, cloth back. Price -....- 50 ots- 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annexed. 
 The American Home Cook Book. Containing several hun^ 
 
 dred L-xcellent Recipes. The whole based on many years' experience or an 
 American liousewite. Illustrated with Engravings. All the Recipes in 
 this book are written from actual experiments in Cooking. There are nr» 
 copyinj^s from theoretical cooking recipes. 
 
 Bound Hi boards, cloth back. Price 50 cts. 
 
 Bound in paper covers. Price 30 cts. 
 
 Amateur Theatricals and Fairy-Tale Dramas. A collection 
 
 of original plays, expressly designed for Drawing-room performance. By 
 S. A. Frost. This work is designed to meet a want, which has been long 
 felt, of short and amusing pieces suitable to the limited stage of the private 
 parlor. The old friends of fairyland will be recognized among the Fairy- 
 Tale Dramas, newly clothed and arranged. 
 
 Paper covers. Price , 30 ctS. 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back 50 ctS. 
 
 Parlor Tricks with Cards. Containing explanations of 
 Tricks and Deceptions with Playing Cards, embracing Tricks with Cards 
 performed by Sleiglit-of-hand, by the aid of Memory, Mental Calculation 
 and AiTangement of the Cards, by the aid ot Confederacy ; and Tricks 
 performed by the aid of Prepared Cards. The whole illustrated and made 
 plain and easy, with 70 engravings. This book is an abridgment of our 
 large work, entitled " The iSecret Out." 
 
 Paper covers. Price 30 ctS- 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back 50 ctS. 
 
 Chesterfield's Letter- writer and Complete Book of Eti- 
 
 q^nette ; «''> Concise, Systematic Direciions for Arranging and Writing Letters. 
 Also, IModel Correspondence in Friendship and Business, and a great variety 
 of Model Love Letters. This work is also a Complete Book of Etiquette. 
 There is more real information in this book than in half a dozen volumes 
 of the most expensive ones. 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back. Price. 35 CtS. 
 
 Frank Converse's Complete Banjo Instructor. Without a 
 
 Master. Containing a choice collection of Banjo Solos, Hornpipes, Reels, 
 Jigs, Walk Arounds, Songs, and Banjo Stories, progressively arranged and 
 jjlamly explained. Bound in boards, with cloth back. Price 50 ctS. 
 
 The Magician's Own Book. Containing several hundred 
 
 amusing Sleight-of-hand and Card Tricks, Perplexing Puzzles, Entertain- 
 ing Tricks and Secret Writing Explained. Illustrated with over 500 wood 
 engravings. 12mo., cloth, gilt side and back stamp. Price SI 50 
 
 North's Book of Love Letters. With Directions how to 
 
 write and when to use them, and 120 specimen Letters, suitable for Lovers 
 of any age and condition, and under all circumstances. Intei-spersed with 
 the author's comments thereon. The whole forming a convenient hand- 
 book of valuable intormation and counsel for the use of those who need 
 friendly guidance and advice in mattei's of Love, Courtship and Marriage. 
 By Ingoldsby North. This book is recommended to all who are from any 
 cause in doubt as to the manner in which they should write or reply to let- 
 ters upon love and courtship. The reader will be aided in his thoughts— he 
 ■will see where he is likely to please and where to displease, how to begin 
 and how to end his letter, and how to judge of those nice shades of expres- 
 sion and feeling concerning which a few mistaken expressions may create 
 misunderstanding. All who wish not only to copy a love letter, but to learn 
 the art of writing them, will finrl North's book a very pleasant, sensible and 
 iriendly companion. It is an additional recommendation that the variety 
 
 offered is very large. Cloth. Price 75 CtS. 
 
 JBound iu boards 1 1 1 50 ct& 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annesed. 
 
 ^r. Valentine's Comic Lectures ; or. Morsels of Mirth for ths 
 
 Melancholy. A budget of Wit and Humor, and a certain cure lor the blues 
 and ail other serious complaints. Comprising Comic Lectures on Heads, 
 Eaces, Noses, Mouths, Animal Magnetism, etc., with Specimens of Elo- 
 quence, Transactions of Learned Societies, Delineations of Eccentric Char- 
 acters, Comic Songs, etc. By Dr. W. Valentine, the favorite Delineator 
 of Eccentric Characters. Illustrated with twelve portraits of Dr. Vaien-* 
 tine, in his most celebrated cha,racters. 
 
 12mo., cloth, gilt. Price ^1 2& 
 
 Ornamental paper cover. Price .75 Cts. 
 
 The Poet's Companion ; A Bidionary of all Allowable RJtymes 
 in the English Language. This is a book to aid aspiring genius in the Com- 
 pobition of Rhymes, and in Poetical EfPusions generally. It gives the Per- 
 fect, the Imperfect, and the Allowable Ehymes, and will enable you to 
 ascertain, to a certainty, whether any words can be mated. It is invaluable 
 to any one who desires to court the muses, and is used by some of the test 
 writers in the country. Price 25 ctS, 
 
 Ladies' Guide to Crochet. By Mrs. Ann S. Stephens. 
 
 Copiously illustrated with original and very choice designs in Crochet, etc.^ 
 printed in colors, separate from the letter-j)ress, on tinted paper. Also 
 with numerous wood-cuts, printed with the letter-press, explanatory of 
 terms, etc. Bound in extra cloth, gilt. This is by far the best work on 
 the subject of Crochet ever published. 
 Price gi 25 
 
 Chips from Uncle Sam's Jack Knife. Illustrated with 
 
 over one hundred Comical Engravings, and comprising a collection of over 
 five hundred Laughable Stones, Funny Adventures, Comic Poetry, Queer 
 • Conundrums, Terrific Puns, Witty Sayings, Sublime Jokes, and Senlimen^ 
 tal Sentences. The whole being a most perfect portfolio for those who love 
 to laugh. Large octavo. Price 25 CtS. 
 
 I'OX'S Ethiopian Comicalities. Containing Strange Say- 
 ings, Eccentric. Doings, Burlesque Speeches, Laughable Drolleries, Funny 
 Stories, interspersed with Eeflned Wit, Broad Humor, and Cutting Sar- 
 casm, copied verbatim, as recited by the celebrated Ethiopian Comedian. 
 With several Comic Illustrations. Price 12 ctS. 
 
 Mind Your Stops. Punctuation made plain, and Compo- 
 sition simplified for Readers, Writers and Talkers. This little book is 
 worth ten times the price asked for it, and will teach accurately in every- 
 thing, from the diction of a friendly letter to the composition of a learned 
 treatise. Price 12 ctS. 
 
 Hard Words Made Easy. Eules for Pronunciation and 
 Accent ; with instructions how to pronounce French, Italian, German, 
 Danish, Dutch, Swedish, Norwegian, and other foreign names. A capital 
 •work. Price 12 ctS. 
 
 Bridal Etiquette ; A Sensible Guide to the Etiquette and 
 
 Observances of the Marriage Ceremonies ; containing complete directions 
 for Bridal Receptions, and the necessary rules for bridesmaids, groomsmen, 
 sending cards, etc. Price 12 ctS* 
 
 The Universal Book of Songs. Comprising a choice col- 
 lection of 400 new Sentimental, Scotch, Irish, Ethiopian and Comic Songs. 
 12mo., cloth, gilt. Price %l 25 
 
 How to be Healthy ; Being a Complete G-uide to Long 
 Life. By a Retired Physician. Price o^ - -• 12 ctS. 
 
Popnlar Boots sent Free of Postage at the Prices annexed. 
 The Einger-post to Public Business. Containing the 
 
 mode of Ibrming' and conducting Societios, Clubs, and other Organized 
 Associations ; tail liules of Order for tlie government of their debates and 
 business ; Models of Constitutions, for Lyceums, Institutes, and other (So- 
 cieties. With rules of Cricket, Base-ball, Shinny, Uuoits, Yachting and 
 Kowing, and Instructions concerning Incorporations. Hints about Libra- 
 ries and Museums, -with a Catalogue of desirable Books, and a List of 
 American Coins ; and Rules for the collection and preservation of books, 
 MSS., and objects of Curiosity. Eules for Debating, and a selection of 
 specimens of style from various American orators. Together with an ap- 
 pendix, containing the original Articles of Confederation of the United 
 States, the Constitution, the celebrated Virginia and Kentucky Resolutions, 
 and other documents of reference. By an Lx-Member of the Philadelphia 
 Bar. 12mo., cloth. Price gl 50 
 
 That's It ; or, Plain Teaching. By the author of " Inquire 
 
 Within," " The Reason Why," etc. Illustrated -with over 1200 wood-cuts. 
 12mo., cloth, gilt side and back. This book is a perfect encyclopedia of 
 universal information upon things common and uncommon, found in na- 
 ture, art and science. The whole visible world is swept within the circuit 
 of its touch, and the subjects are illustrated by wood engravings of an ex- 
 cellent character, done in a high style of that art. It is a library in itself, 
 and to a lad or miss of an inquiring turn of mind, it is a perfect Aladdin's 
 palace of useful and interesting information. Price $1 50 
 
 The Eeason "Why: Natural History. By the author o£ 
 
 " Inquire Within," " The Biblical Eeason Wliy," etc. This volume an- 
 swers about 1,500 questions, giving Reasons for hundreds of curious and 
 interesting facts in connection with Natural History, and throwing a light 
 upon the peculiar habits and instincts of the various orders of the Animal 
 Kingdom. More real knowledge can be obtained from, this book than from. 
 twenty dry works on the same subject. 
 12mo., cloth, gilt side and back. Price $1 50 
 
 Biblical Eeason Why. A Hand-book for Biblical stu- 
 dents, and a Guide to Family Scripture Readings. Beautifully illustrated. 
 Large 12mo., cloth, gilt side and back. This work gives 1,494 Reasons, 
 founded upon the Bible, and assigned by the most eminent Divines and 
 Christian Philosophers, for the great and all-absorbing events recorded in 
 the History of the Bible, the Life of our Saviour and the Acts of his Apos- 
 tles. Price SI 50 
 
 The Lady's Manual of Fancy "Work. A Complete In- 
 structor in every variety of Ornamental Needle-work, with a list of mate- 
 rials and hints for their selection ; advice on making up and trimming. By 
 Mrs. PuLLAN, Director of the Work-table of Frank Leslie's Magazine, etc. 
 Illustrated with over 300 engravings, by the best artists, with eight large 
 pattern plates, elegantly printed in colors, on tinted paper. Large octavo, 
 beautifully bound in cloth, with gilt side and back stamp. Price S2 00 
 
 Harp of a Thousand Strings ; (>r, Laughter for a Lifetime, 
 
 A large book of nearly 400 pages. By the author of Mrs. Partington's 
 Cari)et-bag of Fun. Bound in "a handsome gilt cover; oontaining more 
 than a million laughs, and crowded full of funny stories, besides being 
 illustrated with over 200 comical engravings, by Darley, McLennan, Bcllew, 
 etc. Price %\ 50 
 
 The Dictionary of Love. Containing a Definition of all 
 the Terms used in Courtship, with rare quotations from Poets of all Na- 
 tions, together with specimens of curious Model Love Letters, and many 
 ether interesting matters appertaining to Love, never before published. 
 i2mo., cloth, gilt side and back. Price Si &0 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annezed. 
 
 Bniiean's Masonic Kitual and Monitor; or, Guide totlie 
 
 Three Symbolic Degrees of the Ancient York Rite, Entered Apprentice, Felloie 
 Graft, and Master Alason. And to the Degrees of -Mark Master, Past Mas- 
 ter, Most Excellent Master, and the Eoyal Arch. By Malcom C. Duncan. 
 Explained and Interpreted by copious Notes and numerous Engravings. 
 It is not so much the design of the author to gratify the curiosity of the 
 uninitiated, as to furnish a Guide to the Younger Members of the Order, 
 by means of -which their progress from grade to grade may be facilitated. 
 It is a well-known fact that comparatively lew of the fraternity are " Bright 
 Masons," but with the aid of this invaluable Masonic Companion any Ma- 
 son can, in a short time, become qualified to take the Chair as Master of a 
 Lodge. Nothing is omitted in it that may tend to impart a full under- 
 standing of the principles of Masonry. This is a valuable book for the 
 Fraternity, containing, as it does, the Modern " Wokk " of the order. No 
 Mason should be without it. It is entirely different from any other Ma- 
 sonic book heretofore published. 
 
 Bound m cloth. Price ^2 50 
 
 Leather tucks (Pocket-book Style), with gilt edges. Price 3 00 
 
 *' Trumps' " American Hoyie ; or, Gentleman's Rand-book of 
 Games. Containing clear and complete descriptions of all the Games played 
 in the United States, with the American Rules for playing them ; including 
 Whist, Euchre, Bezique, Cribbage, All-Fours, Loo, Poker, Brag, Piquet, 
 Ecarte, Boston, Cassino, Chess, Checkers, Backgammon, Dominoes, Bil- 
 liards, and a hundred other Games. This work is designed to be an Ameri- 
 can authority in all games of skill and chance, and will settle any disputed 
 point. It has been prepared with great care by the editor, with the assist- 
 ance of a number of gentlemen players of skill and ability, and is not a 
 re-hash of English Games, but a live American book, expressly prepared 
 for American readers. The Ameeican Hoyle contains 525 pages, is printed 
 on fine white paper, bound in cloth, with beveled boards, and is profusely 
 ilkistrated with engravings explaining the dili'erent Games. 
 Price S2 00 
 
 Brisbane's Golden Eeady E^eckoner. Calculated in Dollars 
 
 and Cents, being a useful Assistant to Traders in buying and selling vari- 
 ous commodities, either wholesale or retail, showing at once the amount or 
 value of any number of articles, or quantity of goods, or any merchandise, 
 either by the gallon, quart, pint, ounce, pound, quarter, hundred, yard, 
 foot, inch, bushel, etc., in an easy and plain manner. To which are added 
 Interest Tables, calculated in dollars and cents, for days and for months, at 
 six per cent, and at seven per cent, per annum, alternately ; and a great 
 number of other Tables and Rules for calculation never before in print. 
 By William D. Brisbane, A. M., Accountant, Book-keeper, etc. 
 Bound in boards, cloth back. Price. 35 Cts. 
 
 Ilie Indian Club Exercise. With explanatory figures and 
 positions, photographed from life ; also, general remarks on Physical Cul-' 
 ture. Illustrated with portraitui-es of celebrated athletes, exhibitipg great 
 muscular development from the Club Exercise, engraved from photographs, 
 expressly for this work. By Sim. D. Kehoe. 
 Quarto, cloth. Price S2 50 
 
 Live and Learn. A Guide for all who wish to Speak and 
 Write correctly. Containing examples of one thousand mistakes of daily 
 occurrence, in speaking, writing and pronunciation. 
 216 pages, cloth, small octavo. Price 75 cts- 
 
 Mrs. Crowen's American Lady's Cookery Book. Contain- 
 ing over 1,200 original receipts for preparing and cooking aU kinds of dishes. 
 The most popular Cook Book ever published. 
 12mo., cloth, 474 pages i2 00 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annexed. 
 Marline's Letter-writer and Etiquette Combined. For tho 
 
 USE of Ladies and Gentlumen, 12mo., cloth, gilt side and back. A great 
 many books have been printed on the subject of etiquette and correct be- 
 havior in society, but none of them are suliiciently comprehensive and 
 matter-of-fact enough to suit the class of people who may be called new 
 beginners in fashionable life. This book is entu-ely different from others in 
 that respect. It explains in a plain, common-sense way, precisely how to 
 conduct yourself in every position in society. This book also contains over 
 300 sensible letters and notes suitable to every occasion in life, and is prob- 
 ably the best treatise on Letter-writing that has ever been printed. It 
 gives easily understood directions, that are brief and to the point. It haa 
 some excellent mode) letters of friendship and business, and its model Love 
 Letters are unequaled. If any lady or gentleman desires to know how to 
 begin a love correspondence, this is just the book they want. This volume 
 contains the same matter as •' Martine's Hand-book of Etiquette " and 
 '• Martine's Sensible Letter- writer," and, in fact, combines those two books 
 bound together in one substantial volume of 373 pages %\ 50 
 
 Horse-taming' by a Kew Method. As Practised by J. s. 
 
 Rakey. a New and Improved Edition, containing Mr. Rarey's whole Se- 
 cret of Subduing and Breaking Vicious Horses, together with his improved 
 Plan of Managing Young Colts, and Breaking them to the Saddle, to 
 Harness and the Sulky, with ten Engravings illustrating the process. 
 Every person w^ho keeps a horse should buy tliis book. It costs but a trifle, 
 and you will positively find it an excellent guide in the management of that 
 noble animal. This is a very handsome book of 64 pages. 
 Price 12ctS. 
 
 Knowlson's Farrier, and Complete Horse Doctor. We have 
 
 printed a new and revised edition of this celebrated book, which contains 
 Knowlson's famous Recipe for the Cure of Spavin, and other new matter. 
 It is positively the best book of the kind ever written. We sell it cheap, 
 because of the immense demand for it. The farmers and horse keepers like 
 it because it gives them plain, common-sense directions how to manage 
 their horses. We sell our new edition (6-1 pages, 18mo) cheap. 
 Price 12 cts. 
 
 The Art of Conversation. With remarks on Fashion and 
 Address. By Mrs. Mabeuly. This is the best book on the subject ever 
 published. It contains nothing that is verbose or difficult to understand, 
 but all the instructions and rules for conversation are given in a plain and 
 common-sense manner, so that any one, however dull, can easily compre- 
 hend them. 64 pages octavo, large. Price 25 CtS. 
 
 Charley White's Joke Book. Being a perfect Casket of 
 
 Fun, the first and only work of the kind ever published. Containing a full 
 expose of all the most laughable Jokes, Witticisms, etc., as told by the 
 celebrated Ethiopian Comedian, Charles White. 94 pages. 
 ' Price 12 cts. 
 
 Black Wit and Darkey Conversations. By Charles 
 
 White. Containing a large collection of laughable Anecdotes, Jokes, 
 
 Stories, Witticisms, and Darkey Conversations. 
 
 Price 12 Cts. 
 
 The Nightinsfale Songster ; oi\ Lyrics of Love. Containing 
 164 Choice Sentimental Songs. Bound in boards, with cloth back, and 
 illustrated cover. Price 50 ctS. 
 
 The Emerald ; or, Book of Irish Melodies. Containing a 
 Choice Collection of Irish, Comic, and Sentimental Songs. 
 Bound in boards, cloth -back, and illusti'ated cover. Price 50 Cts. 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annexed. 
 
 How Gamblers Win ; or, The BecreU of Advantage Playing 
 Exposed. Bemg a complete and scientific expose of the manner of playing 
 all the various advantages in the Games of Poker, All- Fours, Euchre, 
 Vingt-un, Whist, Cribbage, etc., as practised by professional gamblers on 
 the uninitiated, together with a brief analysis of legitimate play. By a 
 Retired Professional. This little work is designed as a warnmg to the un- 
 wary, and a caution to self-confident card players. A careful perusal of 
 this book will sufaciently post the reader in relation to all the trickery and 
 machinery of " advantage playing," and show the folly of attempting to 
 compete, by fair means, with the professional card-sharper. 
 
 16mo., paper covers. Price ., 30 cts. 
 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back 50 ets- 
 
 How to Mix Brinks. Containing Eecipes for Mixing 
 American, English, French, German, Italia.n, Spanish and Russian Drinks 
 — such as Juleps, Punches, Cobblers, Slings, Cocktails, etc. By J eery 
 Thomas, late Bar-Tender at the Metropolitan Hotel, New York, and Plan- 
 ters' House, St. Louis ; to which is appended a Manual tor the Maaufacture 
 of Cordials, Liquors, Fancy Syrups, etc., containing Recipes after the most 
 approved methods now used in Distillation of Liquors and Beverages, de- 
 signed for the special use of Manufacturers and Dealers in "Wines and 
 Spirits, Grocers, Tavern Keepers, and Private Families — the same being 
 adapted to the trade of the United States and Canadas. By Prof. Chms- 
 TiAN ScHUiTZ, Practical Chemist, and Manufacturer of Wines, Liquors, 
 Cordials, etc., from Berne, Switzerland ; the whola work containing over 
 700 valuable recipes. A large book, bound in cloth. Price S2 50 
 
 The Science of Self-Defence. A treatise on Sparring and 
 Wrestling, lacluding complete instructions in Training and Physical De- 
 velopment ; alsj), several remarks upon, and a course prescribed for the re- 
 duction of corpulency. By Edmund E. Price. Illustrated with explana- 
 tory engravings. This book was written by Ned Price, the celebrated boxer, 
 and is the best Wxork that was overwritten upon the subject of Sparring and 
 Wrestling. It coatains all the tricks and stratagems resorted to by profes- 
 sional boxers, and the descriptions of the passes, blows and parries are all 
 clearly explained ly the aid of numerous diagi^ams and engravings. That 
 portion of the work which treats of wrestling is particularly thorough, and 
 is well illustrated with engravings. 
 
 Bound in boards, cl^th back. Price 75 Cts 
 
 Bound in cloth. Pr.ce ^1 25 
 
 Walker's Cribbage Made Easy. Being a new and com- 
 plete Treatise on the game in all varieties ; including the whole of Anthony 
 Pasquin's scientific work on Five-Card Cribbage. By George Walker, 
 Esq. This is a very comprehensive work on this Game, being the most- 
 complete ever written. It contains ovea- 500 examples of how to discard, 
 for your own and your adversary's crib. Small octavo, 142 pages. 
 
 Bound in boards, with muslin back. Price 75 cts, 
 
 Bound in cloth, gilt side $1 00 
 
 The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer. A Practical 
 
 Guide and Private Receipt Book for the American Liquor Merchant. By 
 John Rack, Practical Wine and Liquor Manufacturer. Illustrated with 
 descriptive Diagrams, Tables, and Engravings. This is by far the most 
 complete and reliable Book on the Manufacture of Liquor, ever published. 
 Cloth. Price ^3 00 
 
 tJourtship Made Easy; or, The Art of MaUng Love fully Ex- 
 plained. Containing full and minute directions for conducting a Courts] lip 
 with Ladies of every age and position in society, and valuable informn.tion 
 for persons who desire to enter the marriage state. Also, Forms of Love 
 Letters to be used on certain occasions. 64 pages. Price . . . . , 15 ctS. 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annexed. 
 The Independent Liquorist ; or, The Art of Manufacturing 
 
 all kinds of Syrups, BttLers, Cordials, Champagne, Wines, Lager Beer, Ale^ 
 PorLer, Beer, Punches, Tinctures, Extracts, Brandy, Gin, Essences, Flavorings^ 
 Colorings, Sauces, Calsu2>s, Pickles Preserves, etc. By L. Monzert, Practical 
 Liquorist and Chemist. Every Druggist, Grocer, Restaurant, Hotel-keeper, 
 Farmer, Fruit Dealer, Wine Merchant, and every private tamily should 
 have a copy oi" this -work. It gives the most approved methods, and a true 
 description of the manner in which our most popular beverages are pre- 
 pared, in such plain terms, that the most inexperienced person can manu- 
 facture as well as the practical man, without the aid of any expensive 
 apparatus. 12mo., cloth. Price g3 QO 
 
 The Illustrated Hand-Book of Billiards. By Michael 
 
 Phelan .aad Claudius Berger. Containing a complete treatise of the 
 noble Game of Billiards, with a description of all the different shots, how 
 to bring the balls together, etc. To which is added, the Rules of the Amer- 
 ican or Four-Ball Game, the English Game, and the French or Three-Ball 
 Game. Also containing the Rules for all the different Games of Pool. Il- 
 lustrated copiously with engravings. Price 25 CtS- 
 
 The Game of Billiards. By Michael Phelax. Eighth 
 
 edition, revised and enlarged. Embellished with a .Steel Portrait of the 
 Author and fitty-one Engravings and Diagi-ams. This is a complete book, 
 and exhausts all that can be said about Billiards. It contains the revised •■ 
 Laws of all the Games, with clear directions how to make every varietv of 
 Shot, etc. 12mo., cloth. Price SISO 
 
 The Bordeaux Wine and Liquor Dealers' Guide. A Treatise 
 
 on the Manufacture of Liquors. By a Practical Liquor Manutacturer. 
 12mo., cloth. The author, after telling what each liquid is composed of, 
 furnishes a formula for making its exact counterpart— exact in everything. 
 Each formula is comprehensive — no one can misunderstand it. 
 Price $2 50 
 
 100 Tricks with Cards. J. H. Green, the Reformed 
 
 Gambler, has just authorized the publication of a new edition of his book 
 entitled, " Gamblers' Tricks with Cards Exposed and Explained." This is 
 a book of 96 pages, and it exposes and explains all the Mysteries of the 
 Gambling Tables. It is interesting, not only ^ those who play, but to those 
 who do not. Old Players will get some new ideas from this curious book. 
 
 Paper covers. Price.'. 30 ctS. 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back 50 CtS. 
 
 The Laws of Love. A Complete Code of Gallantry. Con- 
 taining concise rules for the conduct of Courtship through its entire pro- 
 gress, aphorisms of love, rules for telling the characters and dispositions of 
 women, remedies for love, and an Epistolary Code. 
 12mo. paper. Price 25 Cts. 
 
 The Manufacture of Liquors, Wines and Cordials. 
 
 Without the Aid of Distillation. Also, the Manufacture of Effervescing 
 Beverages and Syrups, Vinegar and Bitters. Prepared and aiTanged ex- 
 pressly for the Trade. By Pierre Lacour. 12mo., cloth. Price. . .$2 50 
 
 Boxing Made Easy ; or, The Compleie Manual of Self- Defence. 
 Clearly Explained and Illustrated in a Series of Easy Lessons, with some 
 Important Hints to Wrestlers. Price 15 ctS- 
 
 How to Win and How to Woo. Containing Rules for the 
 Etiqiiette of Courtship, with directions showing how to win the favor of the 
 I-adies, how to begin and end a Coui-tship, and how Love liOttcrs should bo 
 written. Price 13 eti 
 
Topular Books sent Free @f Postage at tlie Prices annexed. 
 The Gombinatioii Eortnne - Teller and Dictionary of 
 
 Dreams. Being a comprehensive Eneyclopasdia,, explaining ail the difter- 
 ent methods extant by which good and evil events and questions of Love 
 and Matrimony are foretold by means of Cards, Dice, Dominoes, Apple- 
 parings, Eggs, Tea-leaves and Coffee-grounds ; also, prognostications by 
 Charms, Ceremonies, Omens and Moles, the Features and Eorm, Lines oi 
 the Hands, Spots on the Body, Lucky and Unlucky Days, etc. ; to which 
 are added, a description of the Divining or Luck Eod, the Golden "Wheel of 
 Fortune, The Mystical Table or Chart of Fate, the Ladies' Love Oracle, 
 Napoleon's Oraculum, the Language of Flowers, one hundred and eighty- 
 seven weather signs, and a complete Dictionary of Dreams, with their in- 
 terpretations, containing 430 pages and illustrated with numerous engrav- 
 ings and two large colored Lithographs. The whole combining " Madam 
 Le Normand's Unerring Fortune-Teller," " Fontaine's Golden Wheel For- 
 tune-Teller," and ''Madam Le Marchand's Fortune Teller and Dreamer's 
 Dictionary." 12mo., cloth. Price .<, ^1 25 
 
 Art of Dancing without a Master ; or, Bail-Room Guide and 
 Jnslructor. To which is added Hints on Etiquette; also, the Figures, 
 Music and Necessary Instructions for the performance of the most Modem 
 and Improved Dances. By Edv/aed Feekeko. This work also contains 
 105 pages of the Choicest Music, arranged for the piano-forte by the most 
 celebrated professors. The music alone, if purchased in separate sheets at 
 any of the music stores, would cost ten times the price of the book. 
 Price $150 
 
 Morgan's Freemasonry Exposed and Explained. Show- 
 ing the Origin, History and Nature of Masonry ; its effect on the Govern- 
 ment and the Chi-istian Eehgion ; and containing a Key to all the Degrees 
 of Freemasonry. Giving a clear and correct view of the Manner of confer- 
 ring the different Degrees, as practised in all Lodges throughout the Globe. 
 Price 25 CtS. 
 
 Arts of Beauty ; or, Secrets of a Lady's Toilet. "With Hints 
 to Gentlemen on the Art of Fascinating. By Madam Lola Montez, 
 Countess of Laudsfelt. Cloth, gilt side. This book contains an account, 
 in detail, of all the arts employed by the fashionable ladies of all the chief 
 cities of Europe, for the purpose of developing and preserving their charms. 
 Price 75 CtS. 
 
 The Ladies' Guide to Beauty- A Companion for the Toilet. 
 Containing practical advice on improving the complexion, the hair, the 
 hands, the form, the teeth, the eyes, the feet, the features, so as to insure 
 the highest degree of perfection of which they are susceptible. And also 
 Tipwards of one hundred recipes tor various cosmetics, oils, pomades, etc. 
 Paper. Price 25 CtS. 
 
 The Ladies' Love Oracle ; or. Counsellor to the Fair Sex. Be- 
 ing a Complete Fortnne-Teller and Interpreter to all questions upon the 
 different events and situa,tions of life,' but more especially relating to all 
 circumstances connected with Love, Courtship and Marriage. By Madam 
 Le Makchand. Beautifully illustrated cover, printed in colors. 
 Price 30 CtS. 
 
 Sut Lovingood. Yarns spun by " A Nat'ral Born Durn'd 
 Fool." Warped and Wove for Public Wear bj' Geo. W. Haekis. Illus- 
 trated with eight fine full-page engravings from designs by Howahd. This 
 book is crammed full of the most laughable stories ever published. 
 12mo., tinted paper, cloth, beveled edges. Price ^1 50 
 
 The Al-ma-kan-tnr Circle ; or, Hoio to Win a Sweetheart or 
 
 Lover. By M. L. Bykn, M. D. Price • 25 cts. 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annexed. 
 
 Madam Le Normand's Unerring Fortnne-Teller. Contain- 
 ing the celebrated Oracle ot Human Destiny, or Eook of Fate ; being an 
 accurate Interpreter of the Mystical Signs and Heavenly Bodies ; also cm- 
 bracing the French, Italian and English methods of Telling Fortunes with 
 Cards, and a new and entertaining process of Fortune-Telling with Dice ; 
 also containing seventy-nine good and bad Omens, Avith tlieii' Interpreta- 
 tion, one hundred and eight3'-seven Weather Omens, and the Signihcatioii 
 of all the Male and Female Kames in our language. This interesting and 
 curious book was wi'itten by Madam Le 2sol^iIA^D, the great French For- 
 tune-Teller, who was frequently consulted by the Emperor Nai^oleou, and 
 it differs entirely fi-om any other book published in this country. Those 
 purchasing it will find it to be a source of much entertainment and fun in 
 the family cii-cle. This book contains 144 pages, and is bound in pasteboard 
 sides, with cloth back. It is illustratc?d with numerous engravings. It 
 also contains a large Colored Lithographic Engraving of the Mystical Table, 
 or Chart of Fate, which folds up. Price 40 Cts. 
 
 Fontaine's Golden "Wheel Dream Book and Fortnne-Teller. 
 
 By Felix Fontaine, Fortune-Teller and Astrologer. Being the most com- 
 plete book on Fortune-Telling and Interpreting Dreams ever printed. 
 Each Dreara has the lucky number which the Dream signifies attached to 
 it, and those who wish to purchase Lottery Tickets will do well to consult 
 them. This book also informs you how to Tell Fortunes with the Golden 
 Wheel, Cards, Dice and Dominoes-; how to find where to dig for water, coal, 
 oil, and all kinds of metals, with the celebrated Divining Hod ; togethei 
 with Twenty Ways of Telling Fortunes on New Year's Eve.' This book 
 contains 144 pages, and is bound in pasteboard sides, with cloth back. It is 
 illustrated with numerous engravings. It also contains a large Colored 
 Lithographic Engraving of the Golden Wheel, which folds up. It is the 
 cheapest on our list. Price 40 CtS- 
 
 Le Marchand's Fortune-Teller and Dreamer's Dictionary. 
 
 Containing a complete Dictionary of Dreams alphabetically aiTanged, with 
 a clear interpretation of each Dream, and the Lucky Numbers that belong 
 to them. Also showing how to tell fortunes by the Wonderful and Myste- 
 rious Lady's Love Oracle. To tell whether your Lover or Sweetheart loves 
 you. How to tell any Person's Age. How to tell Future Events with 
 Cards, Dice, Tea and Coffee Grounds, Eggs, Apple Parings, and the Lines 
 of the Hand. How to tell a Person's Character by Cabalistic Calculations, 
 etc. By Madam Le Marchand, the celebrated Parisian Fortune-Teller. 
 Illustrated with numerous Wood Engravings. This book contains 144 
 pages, and is bound in pasteboard, with cloth back. Price 40 ctS. 
 
 Pettengill's Perfect Fortune-Teller and Dream Book; or, 
 
 TJie Art of Discerning Future Events. This is a most complete Fortune-Tel- 
 ler and Dream Book. It is compiled with great care from authorities on 
 Astrology, Geology, Chiromancy, Necromancy, Spiritual Philosophy, etc. 
 Among the subjects treated of are — Casting Nativities by the Stars. Tell- 
 ing Fortunes by Lines on the Hand, by Moles on the Body, by Turning 
 Cards, by Questions of Destiny, by Physical Appearances, by the Day of 
 Birth, etc. Signs of Character from the Shape of the Finger Nails, the 
 Nose, the Eyes, the Marks on the Body, the Shape of the Head ; and also 
 - Signs to Choose Husbands and Wives, etc. A book of 144 i")ages. 
 Bound in boards, with cloth back. Price 40 ctS, 
 
 The Everlasting Fortune-Teller and Magnetic Dream 
 
 Book- Containing the Science of Foretelling Events by the Signs of the 
 Zodiac. Lists of Lucky and Unlucky Days. List of Fortunate Hours. 
 The Science of Foretelling Events by Cards, Dice, Dominoes, etc. The 
 Science of Foretelling anything in the Future by Dreams ; and also con- 
 taining Napoleon's Ouaculum, or the Book of Fate. 
 Price only , 30 cts 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Prices annexed. 
 The Courtship and Adventures of Jonathan Homebred ; 
 
 or, Tlie Scrapes and Escapes of a Live Yankee. Beautifully Illusfcrated. 
 12mo., cloth. TMs book is printed in handsome style, on good paper, and 
 ■with amusing engravings. 
 Price - gl 50 
 
 The ¥/izard of the Iforth's Hand-Book of i^^atiiral 
 
 Magic. Being a series of the Newest Tricks of Deception, arranged for 
 Anicueurs and Lovers of the Art. By Professor J. H. Andehson, the great 
 Wizard of the North. 
 Price .25ctSo 
 
 The Encyclopaedia of Popular Songs. Being a compila- 
 tion of all the new and fashionable Patriotic, Sentim.ental, Ethiopian, 
 Humorous, Comic and Convivial Kongs, the whole comprising over 400 
 songs. 
 12mo., cloth, gilt. Price ^1 25 
 
 Tony Pastor's Book of 600 Comic Songs and Speeches. 
 
 Being an entire collection of all the Humorous Songs, Stump Speeches, 
 Burlesque Orations, Punny Sceres, Comic Duets, Diverting Dialogues, and 
 Local Lyrics, as sung and given by the unrivaled Comic Vocalist ami Stump 
 Orator, Tony Pastok. 
 Bound in boards, cloth back $1 00 
 
 Yale College Scrapes ; or, Roto the Boys Go It at Neto Hcwen. 
 This is a book of 114 pages, containing accounts of all the noted and fa- 
 mous " Scrapes " and " Sprees," of which students at Old Yale have been 
 guilty for the last quarter of a century. 
 Price 25cts. 
 
 The Comic English O-ranmiar ; or, A Complete Orammar of 
 
 our Language, with Comic Examples. Illustrated with about fifty engrav- 
 ings. Price ^ - 25 CtS. 
 
 The Comical Adventures of Bavid Dufficks. Illustrated 
 
 Avith over one hundred Punny Engravings. Large octavo. 
 
 Price 25cts. 
 
 Anecdotes of Love. Being a true account of tlie most re- 
 markable events connected with the History of Love in all Ages and among 
 all Nations. By Lola Montez, Countess of Landsteldt. 
 Large 12mo., cloth. Price SI 50 
 
 Tony Pastor's Complete Budget of Comic Songs. Con- 
 taining a complete collection of the New and Original Songs, Burlesque 
 Orations, Stump Speeches, Comic Dialogues, Pathetic Ballads, as sung and 
 given by the celebrated Vocalist, Tony Pastok. 
 Cloth, gnt. Price ^1 25 
 
 The Laughable Adventures of Messrs. Brown, Jones and 
 
 Fobinson. Showing where they went and how they went ; what they did 
 
 and how they did it. With nearly two hundred most thrillingly comic 
 
 engravings. 
 
 Pnce -jO CIS. 
 
 Be Walden's Ball-Eoom Companion; or, Dancing Made 
 
 EasV A collection of the Fashionable Drawing-Eoom Dances, with full 
 directions for dancing all the figures of " The German." By Emile DeWal- 
 PEN, Professor of Dancing. Bound in boards, cloth back 50 ctS.- 
 
Popular Song Books, sent Free of Postage. Price Ten Cents each, 
 I^EW SO^G ]SOOK§. 
 
 This list of Song Books contains all kinds of Sonps, embracing Love, Senti- 
 mental, Ethiopian, Scotch, Irish, Convivial, Comic, Patriotic, Pathetic, and 
 Dutch Songs, besides a great variety of Stump Speeches, Burlesque Orations, 
 Plantation Scenes, Irish, Dutch, and Yankee Stories, Comic Recitations, Co- 
 nundrums and Toasts. 
 
 HARRY RICHMOND'S MY YOUNG WIFE AND I SONGSTER lOCts. 
 
 HARRY ROBINSON'S DON'T YOU WISH YOU WAS ME SONGSTER.IO " 
 
 JOHNNY WILDS WHAT AM 1 DOING SONGSTER lO " 
 
 BUELL'S KU-KLUX-KLAN SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 FRANK KERN'S PRETTY LITTLE DEAR SONGSTER iQ " 
 
 HARRY RICHMOND'S NOT-FOR-JOSEPH SONGSTER iQ " 
 
 DAVE REED'S SALLY-COME-UP SONGSTER iQ " 
 
 THEROOTLE-TUM TOOTLE-TUM TAY SONGSTER lO " 
 
 SAM SLICK'S Y.ANKEE SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 CHAMPAGNE CHARLEY SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 JENNY ENGEL'S DEAR LITTLE SHAMROCK SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 BILLY EMERSON'S NEW COMIC SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 BERRY'S LAUGH AND GROW FAT SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 TONY PASTOR'S BOWERY SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 TONY PASTOR'S W^ATER-FALL SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 TONY PASTOR'S 441 COMBINATION SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 TONY PASTOR'S OPERA-HOUSE SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 TONY PASTOR'S CARTE DE 'VISITB SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 TONY PASTOR'S GREAT SENSATION SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 TONY PASTOR'S OWN COMIC VOCALIST 10 " 
 
 TONY PASTOR'S COMIC IRISH SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 TONY PASTOR'S COMIC SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 TONY PASTOR'S UNION SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 PADDY'S THE BOY SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 BONNY DUNDEE SONGSTER 10 " . 
 
 WILL CARLETON S DANDY PAT SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 BILLY EMERSON'S NANCY FAT SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 HOOLEY'S OPERA HOUSE SO.'^GSTER 10 " ' 
 
 SAM SHARPLEY'S IRON-CLAD SONGSTER lO " 
 
 JOE ENGLISH'S COMIC IRISH SONGSTER 10 ** 
 
 ROD Y MAGUiRE'S COMIC VARIETY SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 HARRY PELL'S EBONY SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 FRANK BROWER'S BLACK DIAMOND SONGSTER 10 "• 
 
 FRANK CONVERSE'S OLD CREMONA SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 NELSS SEYMOUR'S BIG SHOE SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 THE LANIGAN'S BALL SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 TOM MOORE'S IRISH MELODIES 10 " 
 
 BILLY HOLMES' COMIC LOCAL LYRICS 10 '• 
 
 FATTIE STEWART'S COMIC SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 CHRISTY'S BONES AND BANJO SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 GEORGE CHRISTY'S ESSENCE OF OLD KENTUCKY 10 '« 
 
 CHRISTY'S NEW SONGSTER AND BLACK JOKER 10 " 
 
 THE CONVIVIAL SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 HEART AND HOME SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 BOB HART'S PLANTATION SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 BILLY BIRCH'S ETHIOPIAN SONGSTER 10 '* 
 
 THE SHa:\ir0CK: on. songs of Ikeland lO " 
 
 HARRISON'S COMIC SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 THE CAMP-FIRE SONG BOOK 10 " 
 
 THE CHARLEY O'MALLEY IRISH SONGSTER 10 " ' 
 
 FRED MAY'S COMIC IRISH SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 •HE LOVE AND SENTIMENTAL SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 THE IRISH BOY AND YANKEE GIRL SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 THE FRISKY IRISH SONGSTER lO " . 
 
 GUS SHAW'S v'OMIC SONGSTER 10 " 
 
 WOOD'S MINSTREL SONG BOOK : 10 " 
 
 V/OOD'8 NEW PLANTATION MELODIES 10 " 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at tlie Prices amiezed. 
 Spayth's Draughts or Checkers for Beginners. Being a 
 
 compreliensiye Guide for those -who desire to learn the Game. This treatise 
 ■was written by Hknrt Spayth, the celebrated plaj^er, and is by far the 
 most complete and instructive elementary work on Draughts ever published. 
 It is profusely illustrated with ■ diagrams of ingenious stratagems, curious 
 positions, and perplexing problems, and contains a great variety of inter- 
 esting and instructive Games, progressively arranged and clearly explained 
 v/ith notes, so that the learner may easily comprehend them. With the 
 aid of this valuable Manual, a beginner may soon master the theory of 
 Checkers, and will only require a little practice to become proficient in the 
 Game, Cloth, gilt side. Price.. ...o.. 75 cts. 
 
 The Eeason Why of General Science. A careful collec- 
 tion of gome thousands of Reasons for things, which, though generally 
 known, are imperfectly understood. Being a book of Condensed Sci- 
 entific Knowledge. It is a complete Encyclopedia of Science ; and per- 
 sons who have never had the advantage of a Liberal education may, by the 
 aid of this volume, acquire knowledge which the study of years only would 
 impart in the ordinary course. It explains everything in Science that can 
 be thought of, and the whole is airanged with a full index. A large vol- 
 ume of 346 pages, bound in muslin, gilt, and illustrated with numerous 
 ■wood-cuts- Price , SI 50 
 
 Be Walden's Bail-room Companion ; or, Dancing Made 
 
 Easy. A Complete Practical Instructor in the art of Dancing, containing 
 all the fashionable and approved Dances, directions for calling the Figures, 
 etc. By Emile De Walden, Teacher of Dancing. This book gives in- 
 struction in Deportment, Rudiments and Positions, Bows and Courtesies, 
 [Fancy Dancing, Quadrilles, Waltzes, Minuets, Jigs, Spanish Dances, Pol- 
 ka, Schottische, Galop, Deux Temps, Danish, Eedowa, Varsovienne, Hop, 
 etc., together with all the newest Waltzes and Quadrilles in vogue. It dlso 
 contains complete directions for all the figures of the celebrated " German" 
 or Cotillion. Bound in boards, cloth back. Price -50 cts- 
 
 The Game of Draughts, or Checkers, Simplified and Ex- 
 plained. With practical Diagrams and Illustrations, together with a 
 Checker-Board, numbered and printed in red. Containing the Eighteen 
 Standard Games, with over 200 of the best variations, selected from, the 
 various authors, together with many original ones never before published. 
 
 By D. SCATTKBGOOD. 
 
 Bound iu cloth, with flexible covers. Price.... 50 CtS. 
 
 Courteney's Bictionary of Abbreviations ; Literary, Scien- 
 tific, Commercial, Ecclesiastical, Military, Naval, Legal and Medical. A 
 "book pf reference — 3,000 abbreviations— for the solution of all literary mys- 
 teries. By Edward S. C. Codeteney, Esq. This is a very useful book. 
 Everybody should get a copy. Price - - . -12 CtS. 
 
 How to Betect Adnlteration in Our Baily Food and Brink, 
 
 A complete analysis of the frauds and deceptions practised upon _ articles 
 of consumption, by storekeepers and manufacturers ; with full directions 
 to detect genuine from spurious, by simple and inexpensive means. 
 Price 12 ets. 
 
 Blunders in Behavior Corrected. A Concise Code of De- 
 portment for both sexes. Price -12 cts- 
 
 •' It will polish and refine either sex, and is Chesterfield superseded." — 
 Home Companion. 
 
 Five Hundred French Phrases. Adapted for those who 
 
 aspire to speak and write Erench correctly. Price. ................. .12 cts. 
 
Popular Books sent Free of Postage at the Priceis annexed. 
 
 The Sociable ; or, One Thousand and One Home AmmemenU. 
 Contaiiiinf,' Acting Proverbs, Charades, Musical Burlesques, Tableaux 
 Vivants, 1'rt.rlor Games, Forfeits, Parlor Magic, and a choice collection of 
 curious mental and mechanical puzzles, etc. Illustrated 'witli engravings 
 and diagrams. 
 12mo., cloih, gilt side stamp. Price ^1 50 
 
 Frank Converse's Complete Banjo Instructor, without a 
 
 Master. Containing' a choice collection of Banjo Solos, Hornpipes, Heels, 
 Jigs, W alk-Arouuds, Songs and Banjo Stories, progressively arranged and 
 plainly explained, enabling the learner (o become a proficient banjoist with- 
 out the aid of a teacher. Illustrated with diagrams and explanatory sym- 
 bols. 100 pages. Bound in boards, cloth back. Price 50 Cts. 
 
 The Magician's Own Book. Containing several hundred 
 amusing Sleight-of-hand and Card Tricks, Perplexmg Puzzles, Entertain- 
 ing Tricks and Secret Writing Explained. Illustrated with over 500 wood 
 engravings. 
 12mo., cloth, gilt side and back stamp. Price $1 50 
 
 The Secret Out ; or, One Thomnnd Tricks loith Cards. A book 
 which explains all the Tricks and Deceptions with Playing Cards ever 
 known or invented. Illusti-ated with over 3G0 engravings. 
 398 pages, 12mo., cloth, gilt .=ide. Price §1 50 
 
 Book of Riddles and 500 Home Amusements- Containing 
 
 all kind i of Curious Riddles, Amusing Puzzles, Queer Sleights and Enter- 
 taming Recreations in Science, for Family and Social Pastime, illustrated 
 
 wi th GO en gravings. Paper covers. Price . . . , 30 ctS- 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back 50 ctS- 
 
 Parlor Tricks with Cards. Containing explanations of all 
 the Deceptions with Playing Cards ever invented. The whole illustrated 
 and made easy with 70 engr-avings. 
 
 Paper covers. ' Price , SO cts« 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back 50 ctS. 
 
 The Book of Fireside Games. Containing a description 
 of the most Entertaining Games suited to the Family Circle as a Recrea- 
 tion. Paper covers. Price 30 ctS- 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back , 50 ctS- 
 
 The Play-Room; or,In~DnorGnme!iforBmjsandQlrh. Small 
 octavo, profusely illustrated with 197 fine wood-cuts. 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back. Price .50 ctS. 
 
 Bound in cloth, gilt side 75 cts. 
 
 The Play-Ground; or, Out- Boor Game^i for Boys. A book of 
 healthy recreations fur youth. Containing over 100 Amusements. Illus- 
 trated with 124 fine wood-cuts. 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back. Price 50 cts. 
 
 Bound in cloth, gilt side 75 cfo. 
 
 The Parlor Magician ; or. One Hundred Tricks for the Drcm- 
 ivg-Room. Illustrated and clearly explained, with 121 engravings. 
 
 Paper covers. Price 30 cts. 
 
 Boards, cloth back 50 cts- 
 
 The Book of 500 Curious Puzzles. Containing all kinds 
 
 of entertaining Paradoxes, Deceptions in Numbers, etc. Illustrated with 
 
 numerous engravings. Paper covers. • Price 80 cts. 
 
 Bound in boards, cloth back ■'•••p»<"d» 50 CtS, 
 
 ,36 91 
 
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 ^ DEC 90 
 
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